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JfeJ ^ #-«k(*^*fc ■^ I *»' * *»■ ': 4 «•' . 1 -f«*s JOUR N A L O F CAPTAIN COOK'S LAST VOYAGE T O T H E * PACIFIC OCEAN, O N DISCOVERY; PERFORMED IM THE Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, ILLUSTRATED WITH Cuts, and a Chart, (hewing the Tracts of the Ships employed in this Expedition. Faithfully Narrated from the original MS. LONDON: Printed for E. N e w b e r y, at the Corner of St. Paul's Church Yard. M DCC LXXXI. ;, *" •* v*.r''-" i^^^^^^i^^^ V ^if/t yVv/r ///f/ A/'V/ *■ • /// f ''ff//'(/fA r if' ■+ V"'.r'--.'r:4 'S I «. I { ,.;« -■- * i <-^ « I ■ i Ki ft ADVERTISEMENT. THE Editor of this Journal does not make himfelf anfwerable for all the fa^s that are related in it* There is certainly fome allowance to be made to a man who has circum« navigated the globe oftener perhaps than once. And indeed there are many Truths in nature, which till our ideas are enlarged by experience, appear to us incredible. Thus much however the Editor may venture to affirm, that what immediately relates to the objeft of the Voyage, the places the (hips vi- fited, the diftrcfles they met with, and the Dif- coveries of new Countries, new Inhabitants, new Cufloms Arts and Manufactures, fo far as they could be learnt or apprehended during a fhort (lay among people with whom the Jour- nalift could converfe only by figns -, all thefe particulars are related with the (Irided regard to truth, as is likewife the conduct and charac. ter of Omai, his reception and confequence at Otaheite, atiJ the envy and jealoufy which his riches and the favour (hewn him by his patron and friend Capt. Cook excited among the Chiefs of his own country ; thefe the Journalift fcems to have noticed with particular attention. But the Editor does not take upon him to fay, that the Journalift has not upon fome oc- cafions exaggerated circumltanccs, nor that his pre- ADVERTISEMENT. ^ prejudices have nor fometimes prevailed over his candour in reprefenting charaders. The Editor may have his errors too ; but he hopes they are fuch as may be pardoned. Some have arifen from hade, and feme from mifun- derftanding the Journalid's Orthography, who, being at a great diftance, could not be confut- ed without retarding the Prefs. For thcfe the intelligent Reader, he hopes, will accept of this apology. Wirh refnect to language, fuf-. fice it to fay, that he has affe£lcd no ornament. It was a plain tale he had to tell, and he has told it in a plain way. The Chart that accompanies the Voyage illullrates the courfe with as much accuracy as is neceflary even for Geographers, and it af- forded no fmall pleafure to the Editor, when he found on comparifon, the latitudes and longi- tudes in the Journal correfponded with the ob- fervations of the late Spanifli Voyagers, fent out on the fame errand. E R R A Page 1 86, Line 7, injitadof • * and Rome. * * A. • •, addy in Greece 73. - 275, — 2Ci2, - 297. • 3» f°^ ^^ *^** Mx't^ beginning ** had gi- ven the name of, " read Alafkah, which we afterwards found to border on the American coaft. This bay, ^f. . g, after the luord proved, add not. ■ I, for caftward, r. weft.vard. • to,/c;^ Heliniflci, t, liafKah, ■I'ifcr 6 kaeues, r. 20. INTRODUCTION. T W O illuftrioiis foreigners, Columbus and Magellan, rendered their names im- mortal, at an early period, by opening an im- lie field for difcovei id th( Tiprovement of Navi.^ation ; but it has been rcferved for a diftinguilhcd native of this country and of this age, to fix the boundaries, and to complete the ne phis ultra of the nautical art. The two laft of thefe nriemorable Navigators fell in the pro- fecution of their intertfting projeds — the firft furvived only to experience the vicifTitudes of Fortune, and to feel the refcntment of an un- grateful Court. Columbus, by a perfeverance, of \vhich there was then no prtcedcnr, very providentially lur- mountcd every oblUcie that oppoied his pro- grefs, and aftonifhrd Europe with the produdion of a new earthy while much about the iame time Magellan, infpired by a like fpirit of en- terprife, and animated by a magnaiumity that delpifcd danger while in the | uifuit of glory, opened a paflage to a New Sea. A brief recapitulation of the attempts made to impiove this latter difcovery will fhew the importance of the pref nt Voyage, and fur- nidi an idea of the vaifncls of the undertaking — no Icls than to fix the boundaries of the two continents that form the grand divifions, which tho' feparated to all human appearance, connect the Globe, ; : B It il INTRODU CTION. It was on the 6th of November, in the year, 1520 that Magellan entered the Straits, that have ever fince born his name, and the 27th of the fame month, when in a tranfport of joy he beheld the wifhed-for objeft of his purfuir, the Great Southern Sea. Elated with fuccefs, he proceeded chearfully for feve- ral days, with a favouring gale ; but the wea- ther foon changing, and the fea growing boifte- rous, he altered his courfe from the high lati- tude in which he entered that almod bound* lefs ocean, and direded his views to a more moderate climate. For 113 days he continued fleering to the north- weft, without feeing land or meeting with other fupply except what water the failors caught in the awnings, when the ftorms of thunder, which were frequent and dreadful, burft the clouds and let looie the rain. Having in that time crofTed the line, he fell in with a range of iflands, in the 12th degree of northern latitude, where with great difficulty he procured fomc refrefliment for thofe of his followers who yet remained alive, moft of them having perifhed by hunger and fatigue in that long run of tirefome navigation. Thofe who furvived had fed fome time upon tough hides, the leather of their (hoes, and even that which furrounded the ropes, after having foftened thefe dainties by foaking them in fea-water. Add to this, that many of them being attacked by the fcurvy, the fielh of their gums had fo envelop- pcd /NTKODUCTION. Ill ptd their teeth, that unable to eat, they died famiftied in all the agonies of horror and def- pair. The thicvifli difpofition of the tropical iflanders in this ocean, to which Magellan now gave the name of Pacific, being new to the Spaniards, they were not at firft apprifed, that while they were abroad enjoying the fweetnefs of the refrelhing air at land, the natives were employed in ftripping the fhips of their iron, and whatever clfe was portable. It was in vain to punilh the delinquents, for where all were culpable thofc only could J3e made to fuffer, who were taken in the fad ; and fuch was their dex- terity that few were detedled. From thcfe iflands, to which he gave the name of Ladroncs, Magellan haftencd his de- parture, and proceeding in fcarch of the Maluc- cas, the chief objedl of his voyage, he found in his way many little idands, where he was hos- pitably received, and where a friendly corref- pondence was eftablilhed, by which mutual civilities and mutual benefadions were recipro* cally interchanged. Thcfe iflands were fituated between the La- drones, and what are now known by the name of the Philippines, in one of which, named Nathan, Magellan, with 60 men, encountering a whole army, was firft wounded with a poifoned arrow, and then pierced with a bearded lance. His little fquadron, now reduced to two fhips, and not more than 80 men, departed haftily, B 2 and t - r |v INTRODUCTION. and after many difafters, in which only one, the Vidory, elcaped, fhe fingly returned by the Cape of Good Hope, and was the firft fhip that ever went round the world. It may not be improper here to remark, that the death of our lare gallant Commander Cook was not un- fimilar to that of Magellan, both originating from an ovtr confidence in their own conic- quences, which could avail them nothing when overpowered by numbers. Other adventurers were not now wanting to trace the fteps that had been pointed out by this intrepid Navigator •, but we may venture to aflert, that th.-y were not all a(5tuated by the fame paflion for glory •, the hope of gain was their prevailing motive. Alvarez de Mendamo, indeed, in 1567, was fent from Lima on purpofe for dilcovery ; he failed Soo lenques wellward from the coall of Peru, and fell in with certain ifljnds in u de- grees fouth, inhabited by people of a yellowilh colour, whofe weapons were bows and arrows, and darts, and whole bodies were naked, but ftrangely punctuated. Here the Spaniards found hogs and little dogs, and fome domcllic fowls like thofe in Furope; and here likevvife they found cloves, ginger, cinnamon, and Tome gold, but it has yet been a queltion undecided to what groupe of iOands this difcovery is to be placed i for it is f^iH. that the Spaniards, no( • /(nfiing gold^ L»rQught home, notwithftanding 40,000 :9- i ■> 4 .'.4 by INTRODUCTION. v 40,000 pezocs fdoUars] befides great ftore of cloves, ginger, and lome cinnamon •, none of which have yet been difcovered in the tropical iflands in the pacific fea. Capr. Cook inclines to the opinion, that they are the clufter which comprizes what has fince been called New Bri- tain, &c. Afterwards Mendamo difcovered the Archi- pelago of iflands, called the Iflands of Solomon, of ^vhich great and fmail he counted thirty-three. He alfo difcovered the ifland of St. Chrifloval^ in 1575, not far from the above Archipelago, in 7 deg. fouth, 1 10 leagues in circuit. Sir Francis Drake in 1577, was the firft En- glifhman that paflcd the Screlghts already def- cribed, and though his views were not the mod honourable, nor founded upon principles that could be ftridlly juftificd, yet his difcoveries were no lefs important than if patronifed by his fove- reign, and encouraged by the higheft authority. He difcovered the Ifland of California, which he named New Albion, having failed to the 43d deg. of northern latitude, with a defign to return by a north eiil courfe, but was ftopt in his progrefs by the piercing cold. Other fmall iflands he difcovered in his route •, but as his folc view was to return with his booty, he paid no regard to objcds of lels concern. He arrived in England by the Cape of Good Hope, in ig8o. B3 To iv INTRODUCTION. , \i To him fucceeded Sir Thomas Cavendi(b, who like wife pafTed the Streighcs of Magellan in 1586, and returned nearly by the fame route pointed out by his predecefTor, touching at the Ladrones, and making fome llay at the Philip- pine Ides, of which on his return he gave an entertaining defcription. In the mean time, namely in 1595, the Spani- ards,intent upon difcovery more than plunder,Bt- ted out four fhips, and gave the command to Al- varo Mendana de Ncyra. This voyage pro- ved unfortunate. The defign was to have compleated the difcovery of the Solomon iQands* and to have made a fettlement in one of the moft plentiful. But mod of thofe vyho em- barked on this expedition either died mifera- bly or were Ihipwreckcd. His difcoverics were the Marquefas, in lat. 10 fouth. Solitary Iftand^ in 10 deg. 40 min. S. long. 178 deg. And ladly Santa Cruz, on which one of the Beet was af« terwards found with all her fails fct, and the people rotten. Soon after this mifcarriage, it was rcfolvcd by-thc Spanifli Court not to fettle ihofe iflands, left the Englifn and other foreign aJvertureri!, who might pafs the Strcights (hould ill iheir palTa;;'j home by ihc Eaft-In(Ji(js be le- lifvcd by thorn. This refolution, however, wc iind loon after revoked in favour of Quiros. In 159^, Oliver Van Noort paflfed ihe Straits; but his profcired ricHgn being plunder, he made no difcovsries. He touched to refrefti, at one el ■W :i 4. >. le 4 INTRODUCTION. vii of the Ladrone iflands, in his way lo the Eaft- Jndies, and afterwards refitted his (hips at the Philippines. It may here be neceflary to note, that in this year the Sebaldine iQands were dif- covered by Sebald de Weert, the fame now known by the name of Falkland's Iflss. In 1605, Pedro Fernando de Quiros, con- ceived the defign of difcovering afouthern con- tinent. He is fuppofed by Mr. Dairy mple and others, to have been the firft into whofe mind the exiflence of fuch a continent had ever en- tered. He failed from Calloa December 21ft,' with two fhips and a tender. Luis Paz de Torres was cntrufted with the command, and Quiros, from zeal for the fuccefs of the under- taking, was contented to ad in the inferior fla- tion of pilot. On the 2 1 ft of December, the fame year, he fet fail from Caloa, and on the 26th of Ja- nuary following, they came in fight of a fmall flat ifland, about four leagues in circumference, with fomc trees, but to all appearance uninha- bited. It was juft 1000 leagues from Calloa, and in the 2 5thdeg. S. Finding it inacccfilble, they purfued their voyage, and in two days fell in with another ifland, which Capt. Cook fuppofes the fame difcovered by Capt. Carteret, and by him called Pitcairn's Ifland. On the 4th of February they difcovered an ifland, thirty leagues in circumference, that pro- 13 4 mifed f V 1l! ••• vni INTRODUCTION. mifed fair to fupply their neceOlties, which now began to be very prcfTing; but this, liice the former, could not be approached. This ifland, fituated in lat. 2S. S. fcemcd to de- termine their courfe to the ^ouih ; for on the 9th of February we find them in 18th dcg. South, and on the 12th in i7deg. 10 min. in conference with the inhabitants of a friendly ifland, from whence with difficulty, they pro- cured feme rcfrelh men r, and on the 14th, con- tinued their courfe. On the 21ft they dif- covered an ifland, where they foui d plenty of Efli but no water. It was unini^abited, and the birds fo tame that they caught them with their hands. 1 hey named this ifland St. Bernardo, and is probably the fame which Capt Carteret calls the Ifland of Danger, in lat. 10 dcg. 30 min. S. The next ifl;ind difcovered, they called Ifla de la Gente Hermofa, or the ifle ot handfome people. From thence they fleered for Santa Gruz, already difcovered, where they were kindly received •, but could not leave it without quarrelling with, and muidering iomc of the innocent inhabitants. From this illand they fleered their courfe wellw-ird, pafllng feveral flr.ig[^ling ifliinds, till they arrived on the 7th of April, at an ifland, which by its high and black appearance, thty judged a Vulcano. Here they found a friend- ly reception, and in return carried ofi^ four of thtjr I ■t i INTRODUCTION. ix their people, three of whom afterwards made their cfcape by watching their opportunity and jumpinf^ into the fea, the fourth accompanied them to New Spain. This ifiand the Indians called Taumaco. Another ifland in 12 deg. S. named Tucopia, they paffed, after fome friendly intercourfe with the inhabitants, and on the 25th of April, came in fight of an iQand which they named Noftra Signora de la Luz, in 14 deg. S. and prefently after obferved four other iflands, one of which prefented a moft pidlurefque appearance, diverfified with every beauty which Nature could difplay -, rivers, pools of water, cafcades, and every grace to decorate and dignify the profpedt. Here the inhabitants were frank, as their country was abundant', but here the Spaniards could not help difcovering their natural jealoufy. The firfl: who approached their boat, was a youth of graceful ftature, him they thought to have fe- cured by flyly throwing a chaim about his leg; but this the Indian fnapt, and ir.ftantly made his elcape, by jumping over-board j the next who came on board, they placed in the (locks, left he too fhould make his cfcape in the fame manner. Could ii be wondered therefore, that the friends of thcfe imprifoned youths fliould endeavour by fair appearances, to enfnare their enemies, and feck revenge. Making figns of peace, the Spaniards no fooncr came within their reach than they let fly a volley of poifoned arrows. I: If-' X INTRODUCTION. arrows, by which fevcral of their company was woanded. Interpreting this as an aft of trea- chery, without attending to the caufe that had produced it, they quitted the ifland in the night, and direfting their courfe to the South-Weft, came in' fight of an immenfe country, which had every appearance of the continent of which they were in fearch. They perceived an open bay, and on the beach, men of a gigantic fize, to which they made their approaches with in- expr^ffible joy, imagining that they had accom- piiftied their wifhes,and that their labours would loon be rewarded with honcnir to thcmfclvcs, and advantage to their country. On the 3d of May, they entered the har- bour, having the day before given the name of St. Philip and St. James to the hay^ with the fair appearance of which, they had been fo highly delighted. To the peri they gave the name of La Vera Critz, and to the country Austral del Esperita Santo. The harbour, fitoatcd between two rivers, to which they gave the names of Jurdan and Salvador, was equally convenient and beautiful j the margin of the fhores was moft romantically interfperfed with flowers and plants odoriferous and fplendid ; nor was the country lefs fruitful than it was pleafant. It abounded in all thofe delicious fruits which render the countries between the Tropics the happicft in the world j and there were befides great plenty of hogs, dogs fowls and •t :i' INTRODUCTION. xi and birds of various kinds and colours. The inhabitants, indeed, were jealous of their ap- proach i and difcovered great uneafinefs at their attempting to land. The Spaniards, however, rather chufing to intimidate than conciliate the natives, made an excurfiOD into the country^ furprized the unfufpefting people of a little village, and brought off a fupply of hogsj but rot without imminent danger to the party cm- ployed on that fervice, who were purfued to the waters edge, and fome of them wounded. As Nature had dealt her bounty with a libctal hand to the inhabitants of this happy country, fhe had enriched her coafts with fifh as well as her land with fruits. In purfuit of the former, the Spaniards met with no interruption, but their fuccefs, which was very great, had like to have proved fatal to them. They caught large quantities of a mod beautiful Bfh, which, though of a delicate flavour, was of fo poifonous a qua> lity, that whoever eat of it was fuddenly feized with ficknefs and pain, for which there appear- ed no remedy. Every foldier and every failor was grievoufly affedled j the whole (hips com- panies were rendered incapable of their duty, and officers and people were alike alarmed with the apprehenfions of approaching death, till by degrees, the violence of the diforder began to abate, and in fix days all were redored. It is worthy of note, that ibme of the crew of theRe- folution, in Capt. Cook's former voyage, who had i i Stl INTRODUCTION'. •>; ii u t had eaten of this firti, were feized in the fame manner, and that fome hogs and dogs, that had eai^n the entrails and the bones adlually Quiros, for what reafon does not appear, ▼cry foon quitted this prcmijed land^ and the two (hips feparattd as foon as they cleared the bay; Quiros with the Capitana, his own (hip, ihaped his courfe to the N E j and after fuffer- jng the greateft hardships, returned to New Spain, while de Torres, in the Almiranta and tht Tender, fteered to the Weft, and was, as Captain Cook obfcrves, the firft that failed be- tween New Holland and New Guinea. Quiros, foon after his return, prefented a Memorial to Philip II. of Spain, in which he enumerates twenty-three iflands that he had dif- covered, pamely. La hncarnacion, St. Juan- Bautifta, Santclmo, Los 4 Coronades. St. Mi- guel Archangel, La Converfion de St. Paulo, La Dezena, La Sagitaria, LaFugitiva, La del Peregiino, Noftra Signora del Soccoro, Monte- rey, Tucopia, St. Marcos, El Verge!, Laz Lagrimas De St. Pedro, Los Portales de Belen, El Pilar de Z:iragoz3, St. Raymunda, and La Ifia de la Virgin Maria, and adjoining to it the three parts of the country called Aultralia del Efpiritu Santo in which land were found the Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, and part of Vera Cruz, where he remained with the three (hips thirty -fix days. ■ ' ' .As u'sji f '■/:■. ■■;,'S' INTRODUCTION. xiii As this Memorial is very curious, and but in few hands, an cxtrad from it, we are per- luaded, will be highly acceptable to the intel- ligent reader. »* Ic is conceived,'* fays Queros, " that the three pans, lad mentioned, are only one large country, and that the river Jurdan, by its great- nels, leems to confirm this conie(5ture, as is evident by an information made at Mexico, with ten witneffes of thofe who were with m% to which I refer. • ' •' I further fay. Sir, that in an ill and named Taumao, 1250 leagues diftant from Mexico, we continued at anchor ten days, and that the Lord of that iQand, whofe name is Tumay, a fenfible man, well made, of good prefence, and in complexion fomewhat brown, with beau- tiful eyes, (harp nofe, beard and hair long and curled, and in his manner grave ; afiTiltcd us with his people to get wood and water, of which we were then in great want, *' This perfon came on boird the fhip, and in it I examined him in the following manner : *' Firft, 1 {hewed him his idand in the Tea, and cur (hips and people ; and pointed to all parts of the horizon, and made certain other fio;ns, and by them aflied him, if he had ken fhips and men like ours, and to this he replied, A^^. *' 1 afivcd him, if he knew of other lands far or near, inhabited or uninhabited ? and as foon as he underflood me, he nairicd ahove 60 iflands, 1,1 xiv I N T Fl O P U C T I O N. iflands, and a large country, which he called Manicolo. I, Sir, wrote down all ; having be- fore me the compafs to know in what diredion each lay •, which were found to be from this ifland to the S E i S S Ei W; and N W. And to explain which was fmall, he made finali circles 5 and for the larger, he made larger circles; and for that vaft country he opened both his arms, without joining them again, (hewing that it extended without end. And to make known which were the dillant, and which were near, he pointed to the tun from E to W. reclined the head on one hand, (hut his eyes, and counted by his Bngers the nights which they flept on the way 5 and by figns (hewed which people were white, negroes and mulat- toes, and which were friends and which ene- mies ; and that in fome idands they eat human flefh ; and by this he made figns by biting his arm. And by this, and by means of other figns, what he faid was underilood ; and it was re- peated fo often that he feemed to be tired ; and pointing with his hand to S. S. E. and other points, gave them fully to underdand what other lands there were. He (hewed a defire of returning to his houfe. I gave him things that he could carry, and he took leave, fakiting mc on the cheek, with other marks of a(Fe6bion. " Next day I went to his town, and to be bet- ter confirmed of what Tumay declared, 1 car- ried with me many Indians to the fhore, and having m V INTRODUCTION. »r having a paper in my hand, and the compafs before me, alked all of them many times about the lands, of which Tumay gave the names i and in every thing all of them agreed, and gave information of others inhabited, all by people of the colours before mentioned j and alfo of that Great Country, wherein by proper figns, they faid, there were cows or buffaloes ; and to make it underftood there were dogs, they bark- ed ; and for cocks and hens they crowed, and for hogs grunted : and in this manner they told ■what they wanted, and replied to whatever they afked. And becaufe they were (hewed pearls in the top of a rofary, they intimated that they had fuch. All thefe queflions and enquiries others of my companions made this day and other times of thefe and other Indians ; and they always faid the fame ; from whence it ap- peared they were people who fpeak truth. ** When I failed from this ifland of Taumaco I made them feize four very likely Indians j three of them fwam away *, and the one who re-^ mained, and was afterwards named Pedro, de- clared at Acapulco, in the voyage, and in the city of Mexico, where he died, in prelencc of the iVlarquis de Montcfclaros, what follows : '* Firft, Pedro faid, that he was a native of the Ifland Chicayana, larger than that of Taumaco, where we found him ; and that from one to the other is four days lail of their veflcls •, and that Chicayana is low land, very abundant in fruit . and XVI INTRODUCTION. ii U^ U' 'ii' t I i:' . and thitthe natives of it are of his good Indian colour, long lank hair ; and they pundluatc ihemfelvcs, as he was, a hctle in the face, amis, and bread ; and that there are aifo white peo- ple, who have their hair red and very long •, and that there are mulattoes whofe hair is njt curled, nor quite ftrait ; and that he was a weaver and a ibldier-ircher j and that in his tongue he was called Luca, his wife Layna, and his fon Ley. *' He further faid, that from the ifland of Taumaco, at three days fail, and at two fromChi- cayana, there is another ifland, larger than the iwo above-mentioned, which is called Guay- topo, inhabited by people as white as ours are in common 5 and that even Ibme of the men have red hair more or lefs, and alfo black ; and that they alio pundtuate their bellies, and at the navel, all in a circle ; and that all the three iflands are friends, and of one language -, that from this lad ifland a fliip, with more than ahy perfons, failed to another inhabited ifland, named Mecayrayla, to feek tortoile-ihell, of which they ufe to make ear-rings and other toys; that being in fight of it, they met a con- trary wind, which obliged them to deer for their own ifland ; but when near it, the wind again became contrary ; and that in going backwards and forwards they fpent all their provifions, for want whereof forty perfons died of hunger and tljrd i and that he was in the Ifland xvli INTRODUCTION. Ifland Taumaco, where this fhip arrived there with only feven men, who were very white, ex- cept one who was brown; and with three wo- men, white and beautiful as Spanifti, who had their hair red and very long ; and that all three came covered from head to foot with a kind of veil, blue or black, and very fine, to which they gave the name of Foa-foa •, and that of all thefe ten perfons only remained alive the Indiaa Clan, who related to him what he had faid of that ifland GuAYTOPo. And that he alfo faw come to his Ifland Chicayana, another (hip of theirs of two hulls full of people, white and beautiful, and with many very handfome girls ; and counting on his fingers by ten and ten, he intimated they were in all i lo perfons. " He farther faid, that from another ifland called Tucopia, (which is where the two Indians fwam away,) at the diftanceof five days of their failing, is that great country, Manicolo, in- habited by many people, dun-coloured and mu- lattoes, in large towns; and to explain their fize, he pointed out Acapulco, and others larger; and on this, I aflced him if there were towns as large as Mexico. He replied, iVi? ; buttnany people : and that they were friendly, and did not eat human flefti ; nor could their languages be underftood ; and that it was a country of very high mountains and large rivers : fomc of them they could not ford, and could only pafs in canoes ; and that to go from the ifland of C Tucopis, ,! i xviii NTRODUCTION. Tucopia, to that country when the fun rifes, they keep it on the left hand, which muft be from South towards South Ealt. " I muft add, that it this is as he fays, it agrees well with the chain of mountains feen running to the Weftward as we were driving about. •' Pedro much extolled the magnitude, popu- loufnefs, fertility, and other things of this coun- try ; and that he and other Indians went to it in one of their embarkations, in queft of the trunk of a large tree of the many which are in it, to make a Piragua ; and that he faw there a port, and intimated it was larger, but the en- trance narrower, than that of the Bay of St. Phi- lip and St. Jago-, and that heobierved the bot- tom was fand, and the ftiore (hingles as the other I have defcribed ; and that it has within it four rivers, and many people -, and that along the coaft of that country they went to the Weft- ward a greater way than from Acapulco to Mexico, without feeing the end of it, and re- turned to his ifland. . ,, " By all that is above-mentioned, it appears clearly that there arc only two large portions of the earth fevered from this of Europe, Africa, and Afia. The firft is America, which Chris- topher. Colon (Columbus) dilcovcred ; the fecond and laft of the world is that which I have feen, and folicit to people, and completely to difcover to your Majefty. This great object ought to be embraced) as well for what it pro- miles pears )ns of frica, HRIS- the ich I Ictely jbject ; pro- mi fcs INTRODUCTION. xix mifes for the fervice of God, as that it will give a beginning to lb great a work, and to fo many and fo eminent benefits, that no other of its kind can be more, nor fo much at prefent nor heretofore as I can (hew, if I can be heard and queftioned." Upon the authority of this Memorial, and others to the like purport, prcfented by Quiros to Philip III. of Spain, future geographers have grounded their opinion of the reality of a Southern Continent, to the difcovery of which that vain Navigator boldly aflferted an undoubt- ed claim. " The magnitude cf the countries " newly difcovered," fays he to his Sovereign, •' by what I faw, is as much as that of all Eu- " rope, Afia Minor, the Cafpian Sea, and Per- " fia, with all the Mediterranean included." That an aflertion like this (hould gain credit, at a time when nearly one quarter of the globe lay undifcovered, is not to be wondered •, but that a man could be found, upon fuch flender ground as the difcovery of a few infignificanc iQands, lying, as it has lately appeared, within the narrow limits of fix degrees of latitude, and lefs of longitude-, to impofc upon an enlight- ened Prince, and engage the attention of men of learning in every country throughout the globe, is matter of aftonifhment that, like other myftcrics when they come to be difclofed, fur- prife only by their infignificancc. ' ' To this ideal object, however, every marl- C 2 time XX INTRODUCTION. time power caft a jealous eye. No fooner was France apprifed of the intentions of the Britilh Court, to engage in carnefl: in the bufiaefs of difcovery, than (he fent a Navigator of her own to purfue the fame trad, who was foon after followed by another on the part of Spain. As the fuccefs which attended thefe firil enterprifcs by no nneans anfwered the expedations of thofc by whom they were fet on foot, the two latter courts, who had profit only for their objed, re- linquifhed the projefl when they found them- felves difappointed in (haring the prize. The perfeverance of our amiable Sovereign, in the profecution of his liberal defign?, as it has en- lightened, fo it has infpired every lover of Sci- ence at home and abroad, with a reverential regard for his priucely virtues, in promoting and patronifing ufeful arts. But to return. In 1 6 14, George Spitzbergen, with a ftrong fquadron of Dutch fhips, palled the Sireights of Magellan, and after cruizing for fome time with various fuccefs againit the Spaniards, fet fail from Port Nativity on the coaft of Peru, on his return home. In his paflage, in 19 deg. of North lat. and about 30 longit. from the Con- tinent, he difcovered a mighty rock, and three days after, a new iQand with five hills, neither of which have fince been fcen. The firft land he made was the Ladrones, already defcribed. In 1615, Scbouten dind Le Maire^ in the Unity of 360 tons, and tlie Iloorn of no, failed from the Tcxci on the 14th of June, profcflcdiy for the 1 ■:%* I N T R O D U C T rO N. xxi the difcovcry of a new pafiage to the South Seas. The fubjetSts of the States of Holland being prohibited, by an exclufive charter to the Eaft- India Company, from trading cither to the Eaftward by the Cape of Good Hope, or to the Weftward by the Magelanic ftreights, fomc private merchants, confidering this prohibition as a hardfhip, determined, if pofllble, to trade to the Southern countries by a tradt never before attempted. With this view they fitted out the ihips already mentioned, one of which, the Hoorn, was burnt in careening, at King's Ifland on the coaft of Brazil, and the other left fingly to purfue her voyage. Having faved what flores they could refcue from the flames, they proceeded, diredting their courfe to the South Wed, till in lat. 54 deg. 46 min. they came in fight of an opening, to which (having happily paflcd it) they gave the name of Strait le Maire in compliment to the principal projedor of the voyage, though that honour was certainly due to Schouten, who had the diredlion of the (hip. Having foon after weathered the fouth- ernmoft point of the American Continent, they called that promontary Cape Home, or more properly Hoorn, after the town in Holland where the projcd was fird fecrctly concerted j and two iQands which they had p'^iTcd, they named Bernevelt Iflcs. They had no fooner cleared the land, than they changed ihcir courfe C 3 10 xxii INTRODUCTION. to the Northward, with a view to make fbme flay at Juan Fernandes to reBt -, but finding both iQands inacceffible, by reafon of the great fwell, they were obliged to continue their voy- age till a more favourable opportunity fhould offer to refrefli the crew. The firft land they made was a new difcovcry in lat. 15 degrees, 15 min. long. 136 deg. 30 min. W. and happen- ed to be a fmall low ifland, which afforded them no other refrelhment, except a fcanty portion of fcurvy-grafs, but no water. They named this l^og Idand, from a fingular circumftance of finding in it dumb dogs that could neither bark nor fnarl. About feven degrees further wett, they fell in with another ifland, which they called Sendre Ground^ becaufe they founded, but found no bottom. Still continuing their courfe to the "Weftward, they came to an ifland, to which they gave the name of fFaterlandy as it afforded them a frefti fupply of water, of which they flood in much need. They likewife procured plenty of frefli herbs 5 but not being able to come to an anchor, they kept their courfe, and foon came in fight of a fourth ifland, in which they could perceive a ftream of water, bur, like the other iflands which they had paffed, it feemed difficult of accefs. They hoifted out their boat, and filled it with empty caflcs 5 but inftead of water, the people in it returned co- vered with infects, which, though not fo large as Mulketoes, iit^' »1 s^y INTRODUCTION. xxHi Mulketoes, were by their numbers and their venom a thoufand times more troublefome. Such fwarnis came from the (hore as covered the ihip as with a cafe, and it was more than three days before the crew could free themfelves and the veflel from thefc tormentors. This they named F/y I/land, In their courfe Fl-om this iQand an incident happened that is a reproach to humanity ; an Indian bark fcH in their way, to which, inftead of making fignals of peace to conciliate themi they fired a gun to bring them to. The bark was full of people male and female, who* frighted at the report, inftead of gueffing the intent, haftened to make their efcape. Prelently the pinnace was hoifted out, manned, and a purfuit commenced 5 the unhappy Indians finding ic in vain to fly, feveral being wounded in their flight, rather chofe to perifh in the o- ccan, than truft to the mercy of their purfuers ; moft of the men, juft as the Dutchmen were about to board their bark, jumped over-board, and with them they took their provifions-, thofe who remained, chiefly women and children, and luch as were wounded, fubmitted, and were kindly uicd, had their wounds drefl^ed and re- ftored to their bark ; but furely nothing could excufe the bruial proceedings of the Dutch at their firft: onfet, nor compenfate for the lives of the innocent fufirrers. C 4 Coc&s xxiv INTRODUCTION. Cocos and Traitors IJlands were the next they fell in with in their run from Fly Ifland. Thefe were adjoining iflands, and feemed to be compofed of one people, and by joining cor- dially together to revenge the death of their unfortunate friends, they appear to have been of one mind. The Voyagers now began to feel diftrefs, and to repent of their ra(h adventure ; they held a confulcation in what manner to pro- ceed, being in want of almoft every neceflary* Fortune, however, did more in their favour than their own prowcG ; for after having paflTed the IQand of Hope^ (fo called to exprefs their feelings) where they were very roughly re- ceived, they arrived at a moft delightful ifland, abounding with every bleflTmg that nature could bellow ; and inhabited by a people who feemed fenfible of their own happy ftate, and ready to (hare with thofe who were in want of the good things which they themfelves poffcfled, and which they fo generoufly beftovved even to profufion. Here the Voyagers refitted their (hips, recovered their fick, recruited their al- moft exhaufted ftock of provifions, by a plenti- ful fupply of hogs, and with as large quantities of the delicious fruits with which the ifland was ftored, as they could conveniently ftowe. This proving a fecond home to them, tliey gave it the name of Hoorn IJlu.,.'., for the very reafon already afligned. It is fituated in lat. 14 dcg. 56 min. South, long. 179 deg. 30 min. Eart, and \t> INTRODUCTION. xxv and in every refpedt refemblcs the ifland of Ocaheite, except in its naval (Irength, in which there is no competition. - ' Being now plentifully relieved, and the crewr in high health, and having no hope of difcover- ing the Continent of which they came in fcarch, they determined to return home by the neareft traft : accordingly they altered their courfe to the North Weft, till they approached the line, and pairing many iQands, to which they gave names, as appearances or circumftances pre- fented, as Green Ifland, St. John's Ifland, &c. they coafted the North fide of New Britain, and arrived at Bantham, in the Eaft Indies, where their fliip Was feized, and their cargo confifcated at the inftancc of the Dutch Eaft- India Company, under pretence of being en- gaged in contraband trade. It is remarkable that hitherto they had only loft four men, one of whom died on their landing. ....... In 1623, Prince Maurice and the States of Holland, fitted out a fleet to diftrefs the Spa- niards in the South Seas, and gave the com- mand to Jaques Hermite : but as thefc re- turned by a direct courfe from Lima to the Ladrones, without making any difcoveries in what is called the Pacific Sea, it would be fo- reign to the defign of this Introduction to de- tain the reader by an unneceflary digrefllon. In 1642, Abel Tafman failed from Batavia in the Heemfliirk, accompanied by the Zee Haan i XXV4 INTRODUCTION. Haan pink, with a profefTed defign of difco* vering the Southern Continent. He directed his courfe to the Mauritius, and from rhcncct iteering to the Southward, the firlt land he made was the Eallern point of New Holland, fmcc known by the name of Van Dicman's Land, in lar. 42 deg. 25 min, long. 163 deg. 50 min. In this high latitude he proceeded to the Eaftvvard, till he tell in with the Wcftern- moft coaft of New Zealand, where the greateft part of the boat's crew of the Zee Haan were murdered by the Savages in \ bay, to which he gave the name of Murderer's Bay, now bet- ter known by that of Charlotte's Sound, fo called by our late Navigators. From Mur- derer's Bay, he (leered E. N. E. till he arrived at Three Kings Ifland, between which and the Continent he pafTed, and run to the Eallward, as far as the 220th degree of longitude ; then turning to the Northward, till he came into the 17th degree of Southern latitude, he veered again to the Weft ward, with a defign to reach Hoorn Ifland, difcovered by Schouten, in order to refit his ftiip, and refrefli his men. But in his palTage he fell in with the ifles of Pylftaert, Amfterdam, Middleburg, and Rotterdam, at the latter of which iflands he found every ac* commodation which he expected to meet with at Hoorn Ifland, and embraced the prcfcnt op- portunity of fupplying his wants. This necef- (ary end accompliflied, he relinquifhed his de- INTRODUCTION- xxvii 1 1? I* 4 ck- fign of vifiting Traitors and Hoom Iflands, and direding hiscourfe to the N W; difcovcr* ed eighteen or twenty fmail iQands, in lac. l7deg. i9min. S. and. ig. 20t deg. 35min. to which he gave the name of Prince William's Iflands, and Hemfkiik*s banks. From thence purfued his courfe to New Guinea, without cither difcovtring the continent he fought, or vifiting the Solomon Ifles, which were judged the key to the grand difcovery. Thus leaving the whole in the fame ftace of uncertainty as be- fore, Tafman returned to Batavia on the 15th of June 1643. '.. tVu "• In 1681, Dampier pafied the Magellanic Straits -, but in his return failed 5975 miles in lat. 13 N. without feeing fifti, fowl, or any living creature but what they had on board. Next to him fuccecded in 1683, Captain Cowley, who failed from Virginia to the South Sea, but made no difcoverics after he left the Weftern coafts of America ; returning by the old trad to the Eaft-Indies. - In 1699, Dampier made a fccond voyage on difcovery, which was chiefly confined to New Holland, New Guinea, New Britain, and the iflands adjacent. His difcoverics were of in- finite importance, but do not properly come within the limits of our enquiry. . . In 1703, Dampier made a third voyage to the South Seas, but without making any new fiifcoveries. He was accompanied in this voyage. xxviii INTRODUCTION. voyage, by Mr. Funnel to whom the circum- navigation of the globe is arcnbed. In 1708, the Duke and Duchefs failed from Briflol to the South Seas ; but returned as all the Freebooters did, by the common traft. In 1719} Captain Clipperton palled the Straits with a view to enrich his owners by the fpoil of the Spaniards. He returned likewife through the liadrone Iflands, confequently could make no difcoverics in the Pacific Seas. In 172 1, the Dutch Eaft-India Company, at the inftance of Captain Roggewein, fitted out a refpe6lable fleet, for the difcovery of that con- tinent, which lay hitherto undifcovered, though univerfally believed to exift. Three (lout ihips were appointed, and well provided for this fervice; the Eagle of 36 guns and iii men, on board of which embarked Roggewein as Commodore, Laving under him Capt. Coder, an experienced navigator ; the Tienhoven of 28 guns, and 100 men, ot which Capt. Bowman was commander; and the African Galley, com- manded by Capt. Rofenthall. From this voyage every thing was hoped. The equipment of the fliips, the appointment of the commanders, and above all, the hereditary zeal of the Com- modore which he inherited from his father, for the fervice, all contributed to raife the expeda- tions of Europe to the higheft pitch. Before they arrived at the Straits of Magellan, they had encountered the moft boillcrous feas, and endured i '?W [cum* \from IS all I* ■traits )iIof mgh lake INTRODTCTTON. xxlx endured the moft intolt ablchar hips. They had iboner entered the Straits, than tiiey ^ '■ again attacked by tempeftuous weather ; ic fton > was fcarce abated, when they were at ^rmed by the fight of a veflel, which they took either tor a pirate or a Spanifh (hip of war, and as (he feemed to approach very faft, were preparing for an engagement, when, to their agreeable furprize, they di(covered it to be theTienhoven's ihaiiop, on board of which was Capt. Bowman, who had been feparated three months before, and it was concluded had been cngulphed in the hurricane that happened when the Tien- hoven lod her main>top and mizen mails, and the Eagle her mainfail-yard. They mutually rejoiced at each others efcape. Capt. Bowman thought they had perilhed in the ftorm, and they had given him over for loft. But their joy was of (hort continuance ; they had other dan- gers to encounter, and other hard/hips to under- go; they found the Magelanic Straits imprac- ticable, and entered the Southern Ocean with diiBculty, by the Strait le Maire. After recruit- ing their water at the Ifles of Fernandez, their firft attempt was in fearch of Davis's Land ; which, it was imagined, from the defcription given by the difcoverer, would prove an Index to the continent of which they were in fearch. They miffed it where they expeded to find ir, but accident threw it in their way. It proved a fmall ifland which they thought a new dilcovery, and I. 1^ ■ il txK INTRODUCTION. and becaufc they ftrll in with it on Eaftcr-day, they called it Pafcb. Wc have juft to rcnriark of this iOand, that as it was then full of people, and but few feen when laft explored, and among them only fifteen women, it is more than pro- bable that in lefs :han another centufy, the whole iflandwill be depopulated. From thisiHand Rag- gewein purfued nearly the fame tradl with that which Schuten had pointed out, till veering more to the North, he fell in with the iflands at which Commodore Dyron firft landed, and where fome of the wreck of the African Galley was aftually found. Here five of the crew de- ferted, and were left behind •, and it would have been an obje(5t of curious enquiry for the Natu- ralifts who accompanied that voyage, to have endeavoured to trace a fimilitude of t" urop "an fea- tures among the inhabitants of George's Ifland, as there is reafon to believe ibat to be the ifland on which the five Dutchmen chofc to fix their refidcnce. This ifland, which they place in the 1 5th degree of Southern latitude, they named Mifchievous Ifland, owing to their late dif- after. ^ Eight leagues to the Weft of this ifland, they difcovered another, to which they gave the name of Aurora, from its fplendidappearance, gilded by the rays of the fifing fun. Another ifland difcovered in the evening of the fame day, they called Vefper, Purfuing their courfe to the Wcftward, they difcovered a clufter of iflands. ■m INTRODUCTION. xxxi iflands, undoubtedly the fame now called the Friendly IJles^ to which they gave the namfr of the Labyrinth, becaufe ic was with difficulty they could clear them. , In a very few days fail after palTing the La- byrinth, they came in fight of a pleafant iftand, to which, from its fair appearance, they gave the name of the Ifland of Recreation. They were at firft hofpitably received j but in the end the natives endeavoured to furprize them by ftrata- gem, and to cut them off. They had fupplied the ftrangers with provifions, water, and wood, and they had affided them in gathering greens, and in conveying them to the (hips ; but one day fee- ing a party of them unarmed, and walking carc- lefly the field, charmed with the delights of the country, in a moment fome thoufands of the natives rufiied fuddenly upon them, and with ftiowers of ftones, began an aflault. The Dutch, from the Ihips obferving a tumult, and fuf^- peding the worft, came haftily to the fupporc of their comrades, when a general engagement cnfued, in which many natives were (hot dead, fome of the Dutchmen killed, and not a few wounded. This proved baneful to the voyage. Few of the crews of either fhip, after thisi, would venture to go afliore for pleafure j moft of them became dilcontented, and fome muti- nous. It was therefore concluded at a general council of officers, to continue their courle to- wards New Britain and New Guinea; and ihence / by V I w xxxii INTRODUCTION. by the way of the Moluccas to the Eaft Indies, which was accordingly carried into execution : and thus ended, like all the former, a voyage which was expcfted at leaft to have folved the queilion ; but in fa(5t it determined nothing. They who argued from the harmony that is obfervable in the works of Nature, infilled that fomething was wanting to give one fide of the globe a refemblance to the other •, while thofe who reafoned from experience, pronounced the ^hole fyftcm the creature of a fertile brain. • In 1738, Lozier Bouvet was fent by the French Eaft-lndia Company, upon difcovery in the South Atlantic Ocean. He failed from Port Le Orient on the 19th of July, on board the Eagle, accompanied by the Mary, and on the ill of January following, he dillovcred, or thought he difcovered land in lat 54 degrees ^outh, long. 1 1 min. Eaft. But this land being diligently fought for by Capt. Cook, in his voyage for the difcovery of the Southern Con- linent in 177 , without effcdt, there is reafon to doubt if any fuch land exifts ; or, if it does ic is too remote from any known tra6l to be of ufe to trade or navigation. Bouvet purfued his courfe to the Eaftward, in a high latitude, about 29 degrees farther, when in lat. 51 dcg. South, the two (hips parted, one going to the illand of Mauritius, the other returning to France. In 1742, Commodore Anfon travcrfed the Great Pacific Oceans but his bufinefs being war, f: INTRODUCTION, xxxiii war, he made no difcoveries within the limits of our Review ; and his ilory is too well known to need recapitulation. Come we now to the ^ra when his Majcfty formed the defign of making difcoveries, and exploring the Southern Hemifphere, and when in the year 1764, he diredted it to be carried into execution. •• Accordingly Commodore Byron having un- der his command the Dolphm and Tamar, failed from the Downs on the 21ft of June the fame year, and having vifited the Falkland Iflands, pafled through the Streights of Magellan into the Pacific Ocean, where he difcovered the Iflands of Difappointment, George's, Prince of Wales's, the Ifles of Danger, York and Byron's Iflands. He returned to England the 9th of May 1766. " And in the month of Auguft following, ihe Dolphin was again fent out under the com* mand of Captain Wallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Capt. Carteret. •* They proceeded together, till they came to the Weft end of the Streights of Magellan, and in fight of the Great South Sea, whftre they were leparated. ** Captain Wallis directed his courfc more, wcfterly than any Navigator had done before him in fo high a latitude, but met with no land till he got within the Tropic, where he difcy- vcrcd the iflands Whitfunday, Queen Charlotte, Q tgnionc. 5 r f ! ; ( V ' ^ ' •' In November 1767, Commodore Bougain- ville failed from France, in the frigate La Bou- deufe, with the ftore-fhip TEtoile. Afier fpend- ingfome time on thecoaft of Brazil, and at Falk- land's Iflands, he got into the Pacific Sea by the Streights of Magellan, January 1768. " In this Ocean he difcovered the four Fa- cardines, the Ifle of Lancicrs, and Harpe Ifland, (the fame afterwards named by Cook, Lagdon Ifland) Thrum Cap, and Bow Ifland. About twenty leagues farther to the Weft, he difco- vered four other iflands ; afterwards tell in with Martea, Otaheite, Ifles of Navigators, and For- lorn Hope, which to him were new difcoveries# He then paflTed through between the Hebrides, which he calls the Great Cyclades, difcovered the Shoal of Diana, and fome others ; the land of Cape Deliverance, fevcral Iflands more to the North •, pafl*ed to the North of New Ire- land, touched at Bataviai and arrived in France in March 1769. «• In ly< ¥ ^jga^ -^ <■ INTRODUCTION, xxxv " In 1769, the Spaniards fent a (hip to trace the difcoverics of the Englifti and French, This (hip arrived at Otaheite in 17719 and in her return difcovered fome iQands, in lat. 32 deg. S. and long. 130 deg. W. This (hip touched at Eafter Ifland ; but whether (he re- turned to New or Old Spain remains unde- cided. " In 1769, the French (itted out another fhip from the Mauritius, under the command of . Capt. Kergulen, who, having difcovered fome barren iflands between the Cape of Good Hope and Van Dieman's Land, contented himfeif with leaving fome Memorials there, which were found by Captain Cook in the voyage which we are about to narrate. " This year was rendered remarkable by the Tranfit of the planet Venus over the Sun's Dilk, a phenomenon of great importance to Adronomy, and which every where engaged the attention of the learned in that Science. " In the beginning of the year 1768, the Royal Society prefented a Memorial to his Majefty, fetting forth the advantages to be de- rived from accurate obfervations ot this Tranfic in different parts of the world, particularly from a fet of fijch obfervations made in a Southern latitude, between the i4Ctfiand iSoth degrees of longitude Wed from the Royal Obfervatory at Greenwich ; at the fame time reprefenting, that vcffds, properly equipped, would be nccelTary to D 2 convey ^i^ ■I xxxvi INTRODUCTION. convey the obfervers to their deftined (lations ; but that the Society were' in no condition to defray the expence." In confequencc of this Memorial, the Admi- ralty were diredted by his Majefty to provide proper veflTels for that purpofe } and the En- deavour bark was accordingly purchafed, fitted out, and the command given to Capt. Cooke, who had already (ignalized himfelf as an expe- rienced Navigator 5 and Mr. Charles Green the Allronomer was jointly, with the Captain, ap- pointed to make the obfervations. Otaheice being the IQand preferred for the performance of that important fervice. Captain Cooke received orders to proceed dire(5lly ; and his inftruftions were, as foon as the Aftrono- mical obfervations were completed, to profecute the defign of making difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean as far as the 40th degree of South latitude; and then, if no land (hould be dif- covered, to (hape his courfe between lat. 40 and 35, till he fliould fall in with New Zea- land, which he was to explore^ and thence to return. In the profecution of thefe inftruftions he fail- ed from Plymouth on the 26th of Auguft, 1768, and on the 13th of April following, arrived at Otaheite, having in his way difcovered Lagoon Ifland, Two Groups, Bird IQand, and Chain IQand. • ' At At INTRODUCTION, xxxvii At Otahcite he remained three months, and, (befides the Aftronomer Mr. Green), being ac- companied by Mr. Banks a gentleman of for- tune, and Dr. Solander one of the Librarians of the Britilh Mufeum, eminent both for his knowledge in Natural Hiftory, and in Botany ; vie have only to remark, that all Europe has al- ready been benefited by the employment of their time, ^ ^ The obfervations on the Tranfit being com- pleated with the wiftit-for fucce fs, Capt. Cooke proceeded on difcovery •, he vifited the Society- Ifles, and difcovered Ghetcroa, fell in with the Eaftern coaft of New Zealand, and examined it; thence proceeding to New Holland, hefur- veyed the Eaftern fide of that vaft continent, which had never before been explored; difcover- ed the Streight between its Northern extremity and New Guinea; and returned home by Savu, Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope, and St. He- lena, arriving in England the i2thof July 1771. In 1769, Captain Surville made a trading voyage from fome port in the Eaft Indies by a new courfe. tie paffed near New Britain, and fell in with feme land in lat. 10 deg. South, longit. 158 deg. Eaft, to which he gave his own name; then (haping his courfe to the North Eaftward narrowly niifled New Cale- donin, put into Doubtful Bay ; and from thence fteercd to the Eaft, between the latitudes of 35 and 41 deg. South, till he arrived on the D 3 coaft I' ['■ xxxviii '. I :l 1 I N T R O D U C T I O K. coaft of America, a courfe never before navi- gated-, and with that purfued by Captain Fur- neaux, between 48 and 52 degrees, and that afterwards by Captain Cooke, in a (till higher latitude, confirms to demondration the non- exiftcnce of a Southern Continent. »f. iJ^x-nn : No foon^r was Captain Cookc*s voyage com- pleated, and his Journals examined, than ano- ther voyage was projeded, the objed of which was to compleat the difcdvery of the Southern Hemifphere. Very extraordinary preparations were made for the equipment of this voyage, which required (hips of a particular conftrudion to perform it, and fuch were purchafed ; fome alterations likewifc were neceflary in the fpccics of provifions ufual in the navy, and thefe were made. Add to this, that many extra articles were provided, fuch as Malt, Sour Krout, fak- ed Cabbage, portable Soup, Saloup, Muftard, Marmalade, and feveral others, as well for food for convalefcents, as phyfic for the fick. , .^_ The fhips judged mod proper for the voyage were built for colliers, two of which were fitted up, and the command given to Captain Cook ; the largeft of 562 tons, called the Refolution, had 1 12 men, ofRcers included *, the other, the Adventure of 23^ tons, given to Captain Fuf- neaux, fecond in command had only 8 1 . To thefe were added, perfons well (killed in Natural Hiftory, Aftronomy, Mathematics, and the liberal Arts of Painting, Drawing, &c. &c. On I 4 1 .«f On INTRODUCTION. xxxix On the 13th of July the two (hips failed from Plymouth, after having fettled the lati- tude and longitude of the place by oblerviktion. This they did in order to regulate the time- pieces, of which they had four on board ; three made by Mr. Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrifon's principles. The great object of the Voyage was to de- termine to a certainty, the exlftence or non- exiflence of a Southern Continent, which, till then, had engaged the attention of mod of the maritime powers, and about the reality of which Geographers of late feeroed to have had but one belief. .. -, , . .. ; - . Let it fufHce, that this quedion is at length decided : but before we enter upon the proofs neceflary to decide that other queftion, con- cerning the exiftcnce or non-cxiftence of a N. W, or N. E. paffage, it will be expc<5led, that we fhould not only lay before the Reader the fafls that have appeared in the courfc of the Voy- ages made in the Pacific Ocean, which we are now about to relate, but thofe alfo that arc to be gathered from the Voyages made in the At- lantic Ocean for the like purpofe. Not only Navigators the moft celebrated in their time, but even philofophers and cof- mographers of the firft eminence have con- tended from analogy, that a communica. tion between the Atlantic and grtat Pacific Ocean muft cxift fomevvhere in the Northern Hcniii- xl INTRODUCTION. 1 4 I I- I: Hemifphere, in like manner as the fame exifts by the Straits of Magellan in the Southern He-* inifp^ere •, this appeared fo certain to the Cab* bots, the moft renowned Navigators of the 15th century, that the younger Scbaftian at the rifque of life, propofed the difcovery of that palTage to Henry the Vllth j and though he failed by the mutiny of his crew, after he had failed a$ high as the 68th degree of northern latitude, yet that prince was fo well pleafed with his en- deavours, that he created a new office in his fa- vour, and appointed him grand pilot of Eng- land, with a falary of 166!. a year during life, which at that p.me was no inconliderable fum. He returned by the way of Newfoundland, bringing home with him two Efquimaux. It was long, however, before a fecond attempt was made with the profefled defign of difco- vering a North-weft paiTage. The attention of the nation was too much fixed on projeds to- wards the South, to attend to any thing that had reference to entcrprizes in the North. Some there were however who held the objrdk in view : and in 1576 Sir Martin Forbilher with 2 fmall fhips attempted the Difcovery } and hav- ing found a Strait on the Souchernniod point of Groenland, through which he failed about 50 leagues, with high land on both fides, he pcrfuaded himfclf that he had fucceeded in his cnterprize; but after repeated trials, finding his error, he gave over the karch. . . a lu.^ In a few years after Sir Martin, Sir Humphrey Gilbert renewed the hop:rs of the Difcovery by a Voyage to the North, which, tho* it failed in ihc main point, it proved of infinite advantage to the siMion in another. He coalted along the Ameri- ■♦i caa i I INTRODUCTION. xli xifls He- 15 th fque fage dbyi d ask ude, en- fa- can Continent from the 60th degree of Northern Latitude till he fell in with the Gulph of St. Lawrence, which he continued to n«avigatc till he perceived the water to frcfhen ; he then took pofTeflion of that vail continent, fince called Canada by the French, in the name of his So- vereign ; and was the firft who projefted the iifherv in Newfoundland, and who promoted the eirablifhment of it. In proportion as the commerce to the Eaft increafed and became lucrative, the define of engrolTing the trade by fliortening the paflfage thither increafed alio ; thence arofe an emula- tion among the merchant! for difcovering the paflage of which we are fpeaking. Thofe in London had concerted a projed for that purpofe, and thofe in the Well Country had a fimilar project in contemplation •, but neither the one nor the other had managed their defigns with {o much fecrefy, but that each got acquainted with the other's intentions. This produced a coalition ; both agreed to join in the expence ; and both agreed in the appointment of Capt. John Davis, to condudl the Voyage, In 1585 he embarked on board the Sun- (hine, a bark of about 60 tons and 23 men, attended by a veflel of 35 tons with 19 men to which he gave the name of the Moon-fhine. He failed from Dartmouth on the 5 th of May. The firli land he made was an Idand near the Southernmoft point of Groenland, which, from its horrid appearance, he named the JOand ot Defolation. In his progrefs he pafTed the Strait that ftil! bears his name, and advanced as high as the latitude of 66 in an open Tea, the coafls of which he examined till the approach of wln- xlil INTRODUCTION. I I f .[ '- IN ter obliged him to return, with every hope, however, of fucceeding another year. On his arrival, his employers were fo well pleafed with the relation he gave and the progrefs he had made, that they next year augmented his force, and fent him out with four veflels, one of which, the Mermaid, of 120 tons burthen, he commanded himfclf, and the other three, (the Sun ihine, Moon-fhine, and the North-ftar a pinnace of 13 tons only) were furnifhed with matters of his own recommendation. On the 7th of May he fet fail from Dart- mouth, and fleered a ftrait courfe till he arrived in the 6oth degree of latitude, when he divided his fleet, ordering the Sun-fhine and North ftar to direct their fearch to the north-eadward as far as the 80th degree, N. while he with the Mermaid and Moon-lhine (hould continue their former fearch to the N. W. where he had al- ready contraded an acquaintance with the in- habitants in his former Voyage, from whom he hoped to receive confiderable information. At firft they exprefied great joy at his return, but they foon (hewed the cloven foot. They were fond of iron, and he gave them knives ; knives did not content them, they wanted hat- chets ; when they got hatchets, they cut his ca- bles, and ftole one of his coafting anchors, which he never again recovered. He took one of the ring-leaders prifoner, who after feme time proved a ufeful hand •, but they furprized five of his men, of whom they killed two, grievoufly wounded two more, and the fifth made his efcape by fwimming to the fhip with an arrow flicking in his arm. In this voyage he coaltcd the land, which he found to be an Ifland I INTRODUCTION. xliii Ifland from the 67th to the 57th degree, N. and at length anchored in a fair harbour, eight leagues to the Northward of which he conceived the paflage to lie as a mighty fea was (eew rulh- ing between two headlands from the Weft : In- to this fea he ardenily wifhed to have failed ; but the wind and current both oppofing his defign, he was obliged, by the remonftrances of his people, to relinquilh that favage coaft, and, as the feafon was far advanced, to return home. "When he arrived he met with the Sun fhine, but the North-ftar was never feen more. His misfortunes did not abate his zeal. He was prepoffefTed with the certainty of a N. W. pafiage^and he prevailed upon other adventurers, in conjun6lion with fome of his former friends, to enable him to make a third trial, which proved no lefs unfortunate than thofe he had Attempted before; notwithftanding which, could he have raifed friends to have advanced the money, he would have continued his refearches till death had put an end to his labours. Thcle repeated difappointments threw a damp for a while on this favourite purluit ; and it was not till the year 16 10, that the former fpirit of difcovery began to revive. In that year, Mr. Henry Hudfon projeded a new courfe towards the N. W. which brought him to the mouth of the Strait that now bears his name. This he traced till he came into an open fea ; but the feafon being pa ft ior making any farther progrefs at that time, he prevailed upon his crew, by flattering their avarice with the certainly of gain, to winrcr on that inhol- pitable coall, though deilituie of provifions for a fingle month. W^hilc Uuir provifions Idlttd I Xliv INTRODUCTION. ■i I i lafted they were contented \ and the tale of riches and glory that had been told them, cherilhed their hopes •, but when famine and cold began to pinch, the ideal profped va- nifhed, and nothing but murmuring and mutiny fucceeded, which ended in the tra- gical death of the Captain and feven of his lick followers, who, unable to make reiiftanrc, were fet' adrift in the boat, while thofe who were in better health feized the (hip, and made the beft of their way home, and on their return gave fuch an account of the certainly of the paf- lage, as left no room to doubt of the difcovery. Accordingly, the very next year Sir Henry Button undertook the talk, and fleered diredly to the new-difcovered fea, in which he failed more than 2Co leagues farther to the S. W. than the Difcoverer, wintered at Port Nelfon, where he lolt near half his men, and returned the next year, roundly aflcrting the cxiftence of the paHage, though he had not been lb hap- py as to find it. Sir Henry was fcarce returned before James Hall and William Baffin let fail, with a view to Ihare the honour of the Difcovery. In this attempt Hall fell by the hands of a favage, and Baffin foon returned, but with a full defign to renew his purfuir, whenever he could find an opportunity fo to do. This did not happen till the year 1615, when he examined the fea that communicates with Davis's Itraits, which he found to be no other than a great bay, with an inlet from the norch, to which he gave the name cf Smith's Sound, iat. 78. About this time the Hudlon's Bay Company was cllal?lilhed, who by charter were obliged to -■ pro- H INTRODUCTION. x\\r va- and tra- his profecute this difcovery, as were likewife thofc mafters of veflels that were employed in the whale fifhery i but neither the one nor the other paid much attention to the chief obje6t of their eftablifhment. * in the year 1631 Luke Fox, commiffioned by king Charles the Firft, made a voyage in fearch of the fame pafTage, but to as little pur- pofe as the reft. '•' ■' ' ' • " He was followed by Capti James, who after the moft elaborate fearch from one extremity to the other of the bay, changed his opinion, and declared that no fuch paflage exlfted •, and it was not till a hundred years after that Capt, Middleton undertook, upon the moft plaufible grounds, and at the inftance and by the recom- mendation of Arthur Dobbs, Efq; to make another attempt, and perhaps a final one, as the non-exiftencc of a north weft paflage thro' Hudfon*s Bay was then made almoft as certain as the nonexiftence of a fouthern continent is now. But it was not yet certain, that fuch a paf- fage might not be found on the wcftcrn fide of America, as there is a remarkable note in Campbell's Voyages, on which that writer, who was a great advocate for the paflTage in queftion. Jays great ftrcfs. He fays, that Capt. Lancafter, of the Dragon (afterwards Sir James) who com- manded the firft fleet to the Eaft Indies, having heard a report while there, of another paflage to that country, and being on his return home overtaken by a ftorm, in which the Dragon loft her rudder, and was otherwife in danger of pc- riftiing, yet being unwilling to defcrt her, he wrote a letter and feni it on board the Hedor^ to which was added the following P. S. " The pal- '. i: I i \i m xlvi INTRODUCTION. paflage to the Eaft Indies lies in 62 deg. 30 min.» by the N. W. on the American fide." — It was] therefore to determine this quellion with as much certainty on one fide of America as ic . had been on the other, that our great naviga- ^ tor was fent out on the late voyage, and it may now be fairly concluded on his examination, ad< ded to thofe of the late and former Spanifh Voyagers, and the Rufllan difcoveries, that no fuch pafTage exids, though it is remarkable,' that in the lat. of 61 deg. 15 min. an open, found was difcovered, which they traced till^ they came to a (hallow bay, impradicable for ihipping, into which a deep freih water river emptied itfelf, with high land on both fides. This river Capt. Cook caufed to be examined with boats, but being more than 50 degrees of long, from the neared coall of Hudfon'^ Bay, there cannot be the lead fhadow of reafon to fuppofc, that it can have any communication with that fea. ^ -v-. ..,,* , Let us now proceed to the Voyage.* W' I ' ' • '1 • i. . I 'M.;-! •"* I «■.,..• . I'".. ; • \ . , 1 V „ J 'i . tn i\,U »<* I. •' V • • 1 :■.•-■>♦ • - ■ ' • > f » » . 1 I • M'tKvi I f I''' w4 A VOVACE ( • i, ' I i ■: 'fi^. • ; ».:^ ,j«~p*-« •-%*•> »#M I K ! I til II I • f • * „ .»' V iJL: •*'ir.r VOYAGE, ' ^^'^^ VKRFOllMll) ttf All MAJSSTT's SHIP '" ^> DISCOVERY, ;■;■/ .) IN COMPANY WITH THI RESOLUTION, Captain COOK, Commander. ' 1: II HAVING taken in our guns at the Galleons, and what (lores were wanting, • " -• * * On the 14th of June 1776, both (hips came to an anchor at the Nore ; but our frcfh pro- vi(ions being nearly exhauiled, we weighed next day, and left the Refolution waiting for her commander. ' ' .< v ^ ' On the 1 6th, came too off Deal, and received on board a great quantity of beef and mutton for the (hip's company, and a boat for the Captain's ufe. It blew hard in the night and all the next day. On the 18th we weighed anchor and failed; but we had no fooner entered the channel than a ftorm arofe, by which we were driven into Portland Koads, where we received confiderable damage. We had blowing weather till . „ The il loo ilio lim am -fam imi !r"ij »ii,s' ' To m K 'm miir- iim iwn imi. ,•■«,> ,,m- Oo J r .y mo i!8?) U M s .■'if*^! ,*'.,>'t///i//i/ X.I/ou/J<'ii ,r (\'/i?'t/ S^l^/iflltil ^'iiA.ilin ( 7,1 ^Ill/Ml/ i**^ \ T:ifion, fj«f5' tioiiiinoi "^^i: \ \ , -i._-. N O lif T H GfiAvir ••'•' ■■\-- \ ''^^^ityx^}h^h^-mniv:ri^''i'^'''^'' \ ' JT f§- v")***-' .• • • ■•• . . , TiVopici of V a no I O E k*.-*. 2|lO ^ Till!!- -fapr FEU-- ■n^'Tiiiiir iwii lror-T»ni-«|f fn« li-;j Ml ati,'|ii «'.: Mil tmr-inw mul mw Mir tUTI' HIM Wll'llllin r'nC: O ''J H( r('\ f/ic Icf Miir ot Villi «i\r ^%^'J^S •'"-'""" Cofidvn r . TWratfua r^ ^;^ p^VjM^gmdam o t:^" T7 4— i / J\ JN ^s^ 1 - 1. ' ^ t '-.,, *-*^ • ' ■ * ^ _. • ■ t [ i o , ■ i. • " E A N I A' <^ r ,1 T o H 'iijhr//r/. i OUT H P A C I F It Ik Sandnii'h 'ij; '% n/M.ui ych^/iiKfiTifiWi ,S'''iy Spriolv It* %, o a-.-- .Ao/f/i ('t, we prefume, be thought tedious if we add - his CaPT. COOK'S VOVAGE. 5 his charafter, as drawn by Captain Cook and Mr. Fofter, in their refpcftivc hiftofies of the Voyage undertaken, to determine the exiftence or non-exiftence of an American Continent, in ,772. ' ■ ■ '-'^^^^■' ■ '*'- 'f " Omai," fays Capt. Cook, " has moft cer- tainly a good underftanding, quick parts, and honeft principles; he has a natural good be- haviour, which rendered him acceptable to the beft company, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the fociety of per- Ibns of inferior rank. He has pafllons of the fame kind as other young men, but has judge- ment enough not to indulge them in any im- proper excefs. I do not imagine (adds the Captain) that he has any diflike to liquor, and if he had fallen into company, where the pcr- fon who drank the moft met with the moft ap- piobation, I have no doubt but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applaufe of thole with whom he aflfociated ; but fortunately for him, he perceived that drinking was very little in ufe but among inferior people ; and as he was very watchful into the manners and con- duct of the perfons of rank who honoured him with their protection, he was fober and mo- deft ; and I never heard that during the whole time cf his ftaying in England, which was two years, he ever once was difguifed with wine, or ever ftiewed an inclination to go beyond the ftridleft rules of moderation. « Soon i I h U: B '' I', r^ • 1 1 H^.l i: Hi s: V'M I'! i i, 1 1 ■ 1 ■ 1 ■( It 1 i if 6 Capt. COOK'S VoyAOE. •* Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich introduced bim to his Majefty at Kew, where he met with a mod gracious re- ception, and imbibed the ftronge^l impreffions of duty and gratitude to that great and ami- able Prince, which 1 am pcrfuaded he will pre- ferve to the lateft moment of his life. During his flay he was careffed by many of the chief Nobility ; but his^ principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. So- lander.** >".<^- •:. i? i.-o .'i. ?■■■"•: >; ^iirH,r,, ^. .;,. ~ On the i(t of Auguft we weighed, and pro- ceeded, with all fails fet, to join the Refolu- tion. While our (hip was repairing, it was ob-? fervable, that thofe who had never been em-* ployed on difcovery bpfpre, were more impan- cnt to depart, than thofe who had already ex- perienced the feverities of a Southern Naviga? tlon pear and within the polar circle; and i^ i. ) ; J£ W4^ ■•Mi ^1 1 m # •^ 'f &h 'll '' 1 ^i ' ' A |J i ■', y ■ ' kf' 'i; 1 . % ( i' J! V ■!:• ."••' I© Capt. COOK'S Voyage. was diverting enough to iiften to the ludicrout remarks of thefe laft, on their frefli-waicr bre- thren ^s they called them, whom they ventufed to foreteU would, like the Jews in the Wilder- nefs, be the firft to murmer and cry out for fbc'. leeks and the onions of Egypt \ intimating thcie- by, that when iihefe raw Tailors came among the iflands of ice in the frozen regions, to fed the efFeds of fcanty fare and hard duty, they would then be the firft to repent ^heir impe- tuofity, and to (igh for the beef and the beer of the land they were now fo defirous to leave. We proceeded with a brifk gale tili the 7th, when in fight of Cape Finiderre, the clouds began to darken, and the ocean to fwell, and to threaten by every appearance an approach- ing tempcft. vSeveral (hips were then in fight, and we could clearly difcern that they were pre- paring, as well as ourfelves, to meet the ftorm. For twenty four hours it blowed and rained inceflfantly •, but on the 9th, a calm fucceeded, which however was not of long continuance; for in the evening of the fame day it thunder- ed, lightened, and the rain poured down in tor- rents. The drops were fuch as no man on board had feen the like. To prevent the cf- fedts of the lightning, it was thought necef- fary to let fall the chain from the mad-head : a precaution which Capt. Clerke never omitted when there was danger from an accumulation of cledlricity in the atmofpherr to be apprehen ied. On :i Capt. cook's Voyagb. ti On the 20th, feeing a (kip to windward bear- ing down very faft, and fufpeding her to be an American privateer, all hands were ordered to quarters, to be in readinefs to engage. She proved to be a Lifbon trader, who by the vio- lence of the gale the day before, had been driven many leagues to the Weftward of her courfe, and was in fome diftrefs. We fpared her thofe thinf^s of which ihe ftood molt in need, and purfued our Voyage. .-'■./■ i. Nothing remarkable till the i8th, when the (hip's company were put to (hort alicivance of water, and the machine erected to diftil Tea- wat^r. This was occafionally made ufe of dur- ing the Voyage, and anfwered very well for fome particular purpofej, but was ill reliihed by the failors foi' boiling their meat. Thefe precau- tions were taken left the Refolution ihould have left St. Jago, and the Difcovery obliged to pro- ceed £0 the Cape, without being able to pro- cure a frcfti fupply. On the 19th we croflfcd the Tropic of Cart- ccr for the firft time, and. On the a 8th, came in fight of St. Jago, bear- ing N W. diftant about fix or fcven leagues. We bore away inftantly for the Bay, and ^c eight in the morning made land. An officer was fcnt alhore with ?U fperd to make enquiry, 'who brought word back that the Refolution had touched at that Port ; but had ha(lened her departure, as the rainy Icaf^n was approach- £ 2 ing, i X '*. 3 ^ :i^ II Capt. cook's Voyage. ,(i ,r* i i ■ i ! ^1 il II c^ fng, and it was unfafe to remain there long dur« • ihg its continuance. The fame reafons that had induced the RcfoUition to proceed were doubly prcfling upon us. It was now the time when the rainy feaibn prevails, though we had as yet obfcrved none of its approaches. It is generally preceded by a (Iroiig foutherly wind, and a great fwell. The fea comes rolling on, and da(hing furiouQy againll the rocky Ihore, caufes a. frightful furff. Sometimes tornadoes or vio- lent whirlwinds arife near the coaft, and great- ly increafe the danger. For this reafon, from the middle of Auguft till the monch of No- vember, Port Praya is but little frequented. The officer was no fooner returned, and the boat hoided on board, than we made fail with a gentle breeze, which continued till September ift, when a dreadful tcmpefl: arofe, in which we every moment exjxrtflcd to be fwallowtd up. The thunder and lighten- ing were not more alarming, than the (hects of rain, whirh fell fo heavy as to endanger the fmking of the (liip, and at the fapic time, though in the open day, involved ^s in a cloud of darknefsy than which nothing could be more horrible : pfovldcntially the continu- ance of this temped was but fliort ; it began about nine in the motntng, and btFore noon the whole atmofphcrc was pcrfcdly ferene, and not a fpot nor a (hade to be ken to mark the place of this tlancntal conflicl. However, in thi^ 1/ it hat had doubly e when 1 as yet cncra'ay and a on, and :, caufcs 5 or vio- id great- n, from of No- enccd. and the fail with tempeft: )C(flcd to lighten - {hcets of 4 capt. Coo It's Vovace: ij this (hort period, our fofferings nearly ke|Jt pace with our apprehenfions, having dur main- top gallant yard carried away in the ilings> and the fail frittered in a ihoufand pieces j the jib and middle ftay-fails torn clear off, and the Qi\p fo ft rained as to make all hands to th« pumps ncceffary. The afternoon was employed in repairing the damages, and difcharging the water *vhich had been (hipped as well from the heavens, as from tht fea. September 2j g, 4, the weather continued fqualljr, with rain j but as we approached thft Line, a calm fuccceded, and the (ky became fc* rene -, but with a hazinefs and languor, as if (he current of the air, like water upon an equi- poife, moved only by its own impuifc. Nothing could be more tedious and difagteeable tharl this calm j but fortunatelv it was of (hort con-* tinuance. September 5th, at eight in the morning la# a fail, the fecond we had feen fince we paiTed Cape Finifterre oii the coaft of Spain. We were at this time intent on Bftiing ; and having hookrd a (hark of an enormous fize, both offi- cers and men were engaged in getting him on board. When he was cue op, there were fix young ones found in his belly, about two feet long each. Thefe were divided among the ofHcers, and one was dreffed for the greac ca<* bin. The old one was eaten by the (hip** crc^t % In E np '■l ■M Tl ^ m i - 1 ii ■ ' :' r i| C4PT. COOK'S Vovaof; to whoip fre(h food of any kind was now be- come a dainty. ^ . The weather continuing fine, the Captain or- dered the great guns and fmaU arms to be ex- ercifed ; the (hip to be fmoaked, and the bed- ding to be aired. Thefe lafl articles, it may be once for all neceiTary to obfcrve, were never omitted during the whole courfe of the Voyage^ when the weather would permit *, but were more particularly neceiTary in crolling the Line, as it has been obferved that the whole wood-work between decks, in this low latitude, is more ^pc to become mouldy, and the iron to rult, than in higher latitudes, probably owing to that nuggUhncfs in the air that has been already no- ticed, and for which Nature feems to have provided a remedy by the frequent tempefts and tornadoes, to which this part pf the oceai^ is remarkably fubje£t. Nothing worth notice till the 17th, when we crofled the line. The weather being fqually> the ufual ceremony of keel-hawling the Tailors who had never croffcd it before, was omitted. This ceremony is fo well known, that it were ncedlcfs to defcribe it. Ou the 20th the weather became moderate, when upon examina:ion, the {larboard main truflcl-irce was found to be fprung. On the 20th, George Harrifon, Corporal of Marines, fitting carclefsly on the be* "^ > x diverting himfelf with the fportlng of the filhes, fell '4 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 15 fell ovcr-boafd. He was fcen to fall, ahd the (hip was inftantly ho^^e to, and the boats got out with all poflible expedition; but he was never again feen to rife. His Dutch cap was taken up at the fhip's ftern; and as it was known that he could fwim as well as any man on board, the boats made a large circuit round the (hip, in hopss to recover him, but in rain. It is remarkable, that in Captain Cook's former Voyage, one Henry Smock, one of the Car- penter's mates, fitting on the fkattlc, fell over- board about the fame place, and much in the fame manner, and fharcd the fame fate. Both thefe were young men, fober, and of good charac- ters. Their lofs was regretted by the officers, but more particularly fo by their comrades among the crew. It is more than probable that both were inftantly fwallowed up by (harks that conftantly attend ihe (hipS. On the I ft of Auguft we caught a large ihark^ ten feet long, withfevcral young dolphins in her belly -, pun of the entrails, when cleanfed and drciFci!, were eaten in the great cabin, and the body given to thofe by whom it was caught. When fryed, it is tolerable meat; but the fat is very loathfome. On the 15th a ftorm arofe, accompanied with thunder, lightening, and rain. As it was not lb violent aa thofe we had before experi- enced, it proved more acceptable than alarming, as it fupplied the ftiip's company with a good E 4 quant. ty ft 'i'^ . ilil: ^ i: r. 1. 1 * f i/- ri'j Ml 'tS CaPt. cook's Voyage; quantity of frelh water, which they caught itt blankets or by other contrivances, every one as he could. What was caught in the awnings Was faved for the officers ufe. On the 2oth it blew a hurricane — handed the . fails, and lay to all night under bare poles. . On the 25th, the (torm abated, and the iky became clear i we obfervcd a (hip to the South- ward, which by her courfe, "we took for the Refolution i We croudcd fail, ftood after her^ and foon came up with her. She proved to be aDutch adv'ioe-boat bound to the Cape. ' On the 28th our people began to look for land; and the appearance of fome birds which arc known never to go far from (hore, confirmed them thar the extremity of .he African coaft was at no great diftance. Our Aftrpnomer, however, v is of a different opinion, and the event proved that he was right. 1 ■ October ill, having now been at fea jufl: two months, without once fetting foot on land, thofe who were tinaccultomed to fuch long voyages^ began to put on a very different afpcd to that they wore a: firft fetting out. They were, in- deed, fomewhat comforted by the chearfulncfs and vivacity which they obfervcd to prevail in alnoil every countenance except their own; from wht nee they concluded, thic many days could not elaple before the painful feniationsof a folitary fea life would be recompenfed by the pL-afurable enjoyments they would find, when. they ■^i ^-^.1 lok for which nfirmed m coaft momer, ind the uft two , thofe oyages, to that re, in- fulnefs vail in own ; days tions of bv the when, they f Capt. cook*! Voyage. tf they came on (hore. Such, perhaps, were the feelings, at that time, of the writer of this Journal. ... -. ,. ^ , . - ^.r: >v-| ,., • 06lobcr 3d, we ftill obferved a great variety of filh and fowl to accompany the fhip, fome of which we had never noticed before^ and we could not but remark the difference ia this refpeft, between the Weftern coafts of the Old Continent, and the Weftern coafts of the New, in the fame latitudes. No fooncr had we crofted the Tropic of Cancer, than we were amufed by the fporting of the fifties, or more properly, perhaps, by their unremitting labour in purfuit of their daily food. Flying fifti are generally the firft to attrad the notice of tholc who never hav; been in thefe feas before, and it is curious to attend to their numberlcfs wind- ings and ftiiftings to elude the attacks of the Dolphins and Bonitos, their declared enemies. Whatever may be the defign of Providence in the formation of thefe creatures, one cannot help confidering their exiftence as a ftate of perpetual puniftiment. While they remain in the water their enemies are there, and tho' na- ture has given thctn the power to quit that ele- ment, and to fly for refuge to the open air, yet other perfecutors are there alio in wait for them no lefs cruel than thofe they have elcaped. Boobies, Man of War birds, and other Sea fowls are continually watching to make the Flying- fifti their prey, wiiile the ravenous Sharks are no I i i' % m' 1 't A y* : 1 J f i 1 '■ '■(■'■ 1 li r 1 ' ■; ( i it CiirT. COOK*s Votaoe. no lefs vigilant in making reprifals on the Dot- phins and Bonitos. Thus, a palTage through the tropical latitudes in this fea, exhibits one continued fcene of warfare ; while in the other fea all is peace and uniform tranquillity. Theib reflexions naturally occur when the mind, un- occupied with Tariety, is difpofed for contem- plation. •"'■ '•■'"*-•*■ -r^- ' ^Uv 'M^{ _:-i.^ >-\}'i-. I I ' On the 4th of Auguft, we too contributed to fill up one aft of this tragic drama, and by catching a Shark, left one tyrant the lefs to vex the ocean. On the 7th, at fix in the morning, the man at the mad-head, called out land ; and at eight we could ail fee it involved in a midy cloud. It proved to be Table Land, bearing S W, at the didance of about ten leagues, which in- duced us to change our courfe from £ S E ; to SSW. ' On the 10th we entered Table Bay, and On the nth, came to and anchored in fix fathom water, where, to our great joy, we found the Refolution. ^ We faluted the garrifon with 13 guns, and were anfwercd by the fame number : Captain Cook, with the principal officers and gentlemen belonging to the fhip, came on board to bid us welcome* By them we learnt that they had been at the Cape near three weeks j that they had ftopt at Vera Cruz only three days, and kad taken on board fome wine, of which they # ' very «i ■^ eDot- irough its one L* other Thcfc id, un- ontcm- ributed and by lefs to he man at eight cloud. > W, at rich in- E; to and in fix e found IS, and ^apcain itlemen bid us |ey had It they JSy and |ch they very Capt. COOK'S VoYAai. i^ very kindly offisrcd us a part, and that they made no ftay at Port Praya except to purchafe fome goats as prefents to the Chiefs of the 3outherp Ifles, ».;.'..' On our landing, our Captain was met by the ofiicersof the garrifon, andthe gentlemen belongs ing to the Dutch Eait-India Company, who re- ceived him very politely, and gave him a general invitation to (hare with them the entercalnuient$ of the place. :; The fubordinate officers on board, were mec by another ctafs of inferior gentry, belonging*^ to the fame Company, with a like invitation, but on difierent terms. Almofl every officer in the pay of the Dutch Company entertain (Iran* gcr^ who lodge and board with them on modc» rat« terms, from two {hillings aday to five. Nothing in nature can make a more horrid appearance than the rugged mountains that form the Bay. One would aimotl be tempted to think that the Dutch had made choice of the barreneft fpot upon earth, to fhew what may be efFcded by flow induf^ry and continued per- feverance ; for befides the craggy cliffs that ren- der the open country almoft inacceflible, the foil is lo iandy and poor, that, except fomc vineyards, there is fcarce a fhrub or a tree to be fcen within any walking diftance from the place j infomuch that the vaft profufion of all forts of provitions of beef, mutton, poultry, ftour, butter, checfc and every other neccfTdiy, is ^ brought •a; m m -;tt| ■ ( M '■■( fd •i'SB .;tA ' % h ■■ : ' li SI t : ■' I M "■■■' (I If io Capt. GODK's VdyAOE;j brought from four to five and twenty days joar<» Bcy from Cape- town, where the Governor ami Company have their refidcnce. - • ^ • - This town has already been fo folly defcribed by Captain Gook in his former voyage, and by €Hhcr writers before him, that little remains to be added. The town is neatly built, and ac- cording ta the natural character of the Dutchy as neatly kept in order. It has the advantage cf a fmall rivulet, by means of which there are; canah in all the principal (Ireets of the town; on both fidas of which are planted rows of ftate- iy oaks. The town is fituated below the moun- tains, and when feen from their fummits, ap-* pears, with the gardens and plantations that iUF> along the Ihore, exceedingly piclurefque : nothing can be more Romantic, nor any pro* fpcd more pleafmg to the eye. The fbip was no fooner moored, than all hands were employed to (trip off the rigging, and to unloiul the ftores ; places proper for repairing the one, and for airing and examin- ing the otherj being prepared before-'hand by Captain Cook •, and the utmoft difpatch was tnade to fhurten our ftay, as the time for navi- gating the high latitudes through which we were to pais, was advancing a pace, and the Refoluiion was already in a (late fit to under- take the voyage. What remained for Captain Cook to do when -we arrived) was chicBy to purchafe live cattle for I Cai»t. COOK'S VovAOE. u for prefents to Arees in the South Sea ; likcwifo live ftock for the (hips ufe -, thefe are always th« laft things provided, becaufe it is found oeccf- fary to (horcen, as much as poffiblc, their cour cinuance on board. He had already laid in iiiffi- cicnc ftorc of beef, mutton poultry and greens for prefent ufe, and had contraded for », good quantity of faked beef, to fave what we had brought from England, as that is found to keep better than the bjsef felted at the Cape^ though t' .aft is preferred for prefent ufe, Aniong the cattle purchafed, were four horfes ^nd mares of « delicate breed, for Otnai ^ feveral bulls ^nd cows of the buffaloe kind* as more (uitable to the tropical climates than any brought from Europe; likewifefome Afri- can rams and ewes ; dogs of the (he kind, fome with and fome without puppies *, cats we had plenty on board, and goats Captain Cook had purchafed at St. Jago. vi'r> •: , -. Stored with thefe, the Refolution refemblcd the Ark, in which all the animals that were to ftock the earth were colleded ; and with their provender, they occupied no fmall part of thp (hip's (towage. , , - : , yr- r; p While the riggers, fail-makers, carpenters, caulkers, fmiths, coopers, and (lore keepers, were bufily employed in their feveral ftations, the aftronomers were not idle, nor the furgeons; the former were engaged in making obferva?* Cionsi the latter in attending the fick, of whom > there ■ V! m m m Mm '"mi ' '■■ 'hi ,.^'. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i ii^ u. V 1.0 I.; Hi 12.5 m ■ 40 12.2 u 2.0 yyi I 1.25 IIU 1.6 ^^= II ^^ lllllBi ^ 6" » Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 4^ ^ >v 33 WIST MAIN ITMit WMSTIt.N.Y. I45M (71*) ■73-4S03 <^ '^V iio l/.x »«; ; ■< §■;■ •■.IS I '■ i 11 Capt. COOK'S VoYAOf, there were not mtfiyy and thofe, on bein^ cAr^ ricd on (hore, very foon recovered. The dr jr fofc air of the African rtiountatn« proved a re- iloracive fuperior ta all the phyHc in the world. Of the efficacy of thi« falubrious ai^, the Dutch Eaft-Iridiamen have experiehce e^ry voyage, both in going to and returning from their fettld* menfA in India. • • ' While we remained at the Cape, twO of thdf (hips arrived full of fick foldiers, who hid bten enlifted in Holland, aod who were in a mif^* riible Condition both as to health^ and want of common neceflaf ics. They had beitn rieiiar five Months on their voyage fron^ Amiliei^am, and had loft on- the paflage, more mtW thah- the compliments of both our OMpi amounted to, owing* to nailinefs and clofe confinernetlt. It is remarkable, that no (hips have tK6 app<^aran^e of being neater Icepe than thofe of the Dutch'; nor any more flovenly where they are not ci* pofed to open view. - A very uncommon incident happened while We Were at the Cape, which might have embroiled us with the government there, had not the deliit- quent been found out and punifhed. It was dif- covered that a number of counterteic fchellings and double keys hud been circulated, and feveral of our people had taken them in exchange for gold. Complaint was made by our olHctrs •gainft the inhabitants, for taking the advan- tage of the ignorance of Grangers to impofe counter- M:l Capt< COOK'S VoYAoi. »3 counterfeic money upon them, as it was not to be fuppofed that they could be judges of the goodnefs of their country coin. On the other hand, the inhabitants cliarged the bad money as proceeding from us. Each were warm in their reprefentatioas, and each were pofitive ia their opinions. It was not thought poOible that any of our people could be prepared to coun« ter&it Dutch money, and yet there had been no inftao-ce of counterfeit money having ever been, feen at the Cape before the arrival of our (hips afi that port. Thus the matter refted for while, till one of the (hips cooks, having obtain- ed leave one day to go aftiore, made himfelf dffunky and offirred bafe money in payment for his liquor. Being detained, and notice givea to his commanding officer, he cauCed him to be fearched, when feveral other pieces of a bale coin were found upon him ; and on examining his cheit, the implements were found artfully concealed, by which he had been enabled to carry on the fraud. He was inftantly delivered up to the Dutch Governor, to be tried' by tbe laws of the country where die oflfence was com^ mitted ; but it not being clear, whether the crime of coining was committed on fliore, or on board his Britannic Majefty's Ihip, the M»* giilracy very politely returned him^ to be deals with as the Commander in Chief fliould think proper *, who not being vedcd with the' power of life and death in civil cafesi ordered him to receive w J- f -->;,«> ;- 1» ; tm J, .|^!i u t . n < iV - JI4 Capt. COOK'S VoyAOB. receive the difcipline of the (hip, and to be km home in the Hampfhirc Indiaman. Thus end« cd a very critical affair, of which there is no inftancc upon record* "^"^ "" ■ '.-'* ti t^r*- ^: • On the 27th of November orders were given to prepare for failing. And, .„.„., .j,i „, , . ^ On the 28th of the fame month, the Gover- nor and principal Officers belonging to the Com- pany, were entertained on board the Refolution, ixrhere they came to take leave of our Captains her fore their departure, as we were expected to fail in a few days, the repairs of the fliips being fully compleatcd. The (lores had all been ordered on board fome days before, and a large quan- tity of beer purchafed for the (hip's company at the only brewery that is publicly tolerated within the jurifdiftion of the town. In (horr, there is not one necefTary article relating to the repairing, providing* and victualling of (hip- ping, that is not to be purchafed at the Cape of Good Hope, and that too at very reafonable prices. The wine at the Cape has been thought dear^ becaufe that of the choiceft vintage 1% fcarce» and» like the ftyre in England, con. fined CO a very fmall fpot. Of the real Con- {lantia» which is the wine fo much prized in £urope» the whole plantation dues not perhaps produce more than forty pipes annually, though jhcre may be two or three hundred difpofcd of linder that name. The wine commonly taken pn board the (hipping for the ofHcer^s ufe, is of , ... , a kind • Capt. cook's Voyage; 25 a kind not unlike Madeira, but of an improved fla- vour, the vines here being highly fublimed by the warmth of the fun and the drynefs of the foil. On the 29th our live ftock were all got on board, and properly provided for and fecur- ed ; and having difpatched our letters to our friends, and left nothing to do but to weigh and fail. On the 50th, having quitted our moorings, we next day came to an anchor in 18 fathom water. Penguin IQand bearing N. by W. five or fix miles. . On the I ft of December, at three in the morning, we took our departure, after faluting the Fort with 11 guns, which they returned with the fame number. At this time we ob- ferved that luminous appearance about our ftiips, which difTerent Voyagers have attributed to different caufes ; but which Dr. Franklin has endeavoured to account for on the principles of Eledtricity. About five in the afternoon, we met with one of thofe terrible gufts fo frequent* ly experienced by Voyagers in doubling the Cape of Good Hope, in which our main-fail was fplit, but fortunately we received no other damage j the fouthernmoft land then bearing S, by £. diftance nine or ten leagues, both ihips in company. On the 24th in the morning it blew a hurri- cane, and fplit the jib. About two in the aftcr- Jioon, unbent and bent another, F On -.•'.. r .'I m^^ 5 ^'M ii:, S H '! if- It ■ 'I 1 t6 Capt. cook's Voyage. On the 7th, the weather that had been cloudy and boiderous ever fince leaving the Cape, be- came clear and moderate. In latitude 39 deg. 57 min. S. the Refolution's boat, with Mr. King, the fecond Mate, and Omai on board, came to compare the time-pieces, and found no mate- rial variation. On the loth, in lat. 43 deg. 56 S. a dreadful florm came on, which obliged both (hips to lay- to that and the following night under bare poles. On the 1 2th, in lat. 46'' 18' S. it began to fnow and hail, and the weather became in- tolerably cold *, infomuch, that from a fcorch- ing heat which we felt at the Cape, the change was lo great in the fpace of thirteen days, that we were obliged to line the hatchways with canvas, to defend the men below as much as poflTible from the efFefts of the froft. Here the AlbatrofTes and other fea fowl, began to make their appearance *, and here feals an(! porpoifes were feen to fport about the fhip, which gave us hopes of foon approaching land. On the 1 3th, at fix in the morning, we came in fight of land, having the appearance of two iflands, the EaftermoO; bearing SSE4-E*, the Wefternmoft S by W | W. At ten in the forenoon, pafied between the i (lands through a very narrow channel. Piercing cold, with fleet and fnow, with which the illands were lightly covered, but neither tree nor (hrub to be feen, nor any living thing, except penguins and (hags, the Vl ill Capt. cook's Voyage. 27 the former fo numerous that the rocks feemed covered with them as with a cruft. Thefe were the Marion lAes already noticed. M. de Marion, when he difcovered thefe idands, had two (hips under his command, one the Mafcarin, Captain Crozet, the other the Caftrie, Captain du Ciefmure. They proceed- ed to the Southern extremity of New Holland, and from thence to the Bay of Idands in New Zealand, where M. de Marion was killed with twenty eight of his men by the natives. He was obliged, having loll his malls, to look out for new ones in the woods of this country ; but when he had found trees fit for his purpofe, necefllty obliged him to cut a road three miles long through the thickets, to bring them to the water-fide. While one party of his people were employed in this fervice, another party was placed on an ifiand in the bay, to cleanfc thecafics, and fill them with water*, and a third was occafionally fent on fhore to cut wood for the (hip's ufe. Thus employed, they had been here thirty-three days upon the bcft terms with the natives, who freely oflfered their women to the failors, when M. de Marion, not fufpeding any treachery, went one morningas was his cullom to vifit the dififerent parties that were at work, without leaving word that he intended to come back to the (hips the fame day. Having called to fee the waterers, he went next to the Hippah, a fortification of the natives, where he com- F 2 nionly \';'i i; «1 ilisi: k t ^ si i 1 1 i I i I fe;' 28 CaPt. COOK'S Voyage. monly ufcd to ftop in his way to the carpenters, encamped in the woods, with M. Crozet at their head, to direft their operations. Here he was fuddenly fet upon •, and with his' few at- tendants, barbarouQy butchered •, as were the boat's crew that carried him on fhore. Next morning, the Lieutenant who commanded on board, not knowing what had happened, fent a party to cut wood, and when every one was at work, the natives watched the opportunity to fall upon them likewife, and murdered every one except a fingle failor, who ran for his life, and threw himfelf, wounded, into the fea. Be- ing feen from the (hips, he was fpeedily taken on board, and gave the general alarm. tA, Crozei's fituation in the woods, with his fmall party, was now become mofl: critical. A corporal and four marines was immediately dif- patched to acquaint him of his danger, while feveral boats attended to receive his people, at a place where the fick had been lodged in tents, for the recovery of their health. He difpofcd every thing as well as the time would admit, and efFedled his retreat to the fca-fide. Here he found multitudes of the natives aflembled, dreft in their habits of war, with feveral chiefs at their head. M. Crozet ordered the marines who at- tended him, to direfl their tire, in cafe he found it neceffary to give the word, againft fuch per- fons as he (hould point out. He then com- manded the carpenters and convalefcents to " * ^ ftrike Capt. cook's Voyaob. 29 (Irike the tents, and the fick to embark firft, with their whole apparatus, while he with the foldiers, (hould talk with the chief. This man immediately told them, that M. Marion was killed by another chief, upon which M. Crozet ieized a ftakc, and forcing it into the ground, made figns that he (hould advance no farther. The countenance with which this aftion was attended, ftartled the favage, whofe trepidity M. Crozet obferving, infilled on his command- ing the crowd to fit down, which was accord- ingly complied with. He now paraded in front of the enemy till all his people were embarked, his foldiers were then ordered to follow, and himfclf was the laft who entered the boat. He had fcarce put off when the whole body of natives began their fong of defiance, and dif- charged their voUIes of ftonesj however, a (hot from the (hip foon difperfcd them, and the com- pany got all fafe on board. From this time, the natives became troublefome, and -iiade feveral attempts to attack his people by fur- prize. They formed an attack againft the watering party in the night, which, but for the vigilance of the guard, would have been fatal to them ; they afterwards openly attacked the (liips in more than a hundred large canoes, full of men, who had caufe fortly to repent their audacity, and feverely felt the effcfl: of Euro- pean arms. At length M. Crozet finding it impoiTible to fupply the (hips with mafts, un- F 3 kfs mm I '' h >i < 30 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. lefs he could drive the natives from his ncigh- bourhcod, made an attack upon their Hippah, which they vainly boafted was beyond his power to approach. He placed the carpenters in the front, who in an inftant levelled their palli- fadoes with the ground; then cut a breach through the mound, and levelled the ditch, behind which their warriors flood in great num- bers on their fighting (lages. Into this breach a chief inftantly threw him- felf, with his fpear in his hand. He was Qiot dead by M. Crozet's markfmen, and prefently another occupied his place, (lepping on the dead body. He likewife fell a vidim to his intrepid courage, and in the fame manner eight chiefs fuccelTively defended it, and bravely fell in this pod of honour. The reft feeing their leaders dead, took Bight, and the French purfued and killed numbers of them.— M. Crozet offered fifty dollars to any perfon who (hould take a New Zealander alive, but this was found impra^icable. A foldier feized an old man, and began to drag him towards his Captain, but the favage, being difarmed, bit into the flcftiy part of his enemy's hand, the exquifite pain of which, fo enraged the foldier, that he ran the fellow through with his bayonet. M. Crozet found great quantities of arms, tools and clothing, in this Hippah, to- gether with ftore of dried filh and roots, which feemcd to be intended for winter provifion. He 'J; • Capt. cook's Voyage. 31 He now compleated the repairs of his (hips without interruption, and profecuted his voy- age, after a ftay of fixty -four days in this Bay of Iflands. From whence, after pafling through the Weftern part of the South Sea, he returned by the Phiiippinas, to the Ifle of France. There appears fome inconfiftency in the above relation, which we cannot help remarking. Itfeems improbable, if M. Marion was mudered in the Hippah, fituated on the prominence of an inacceffible rock, that the boatmen below, who landed him, (hould not make their efcape, and much more improbable, that neither the leader nor his followers (hould be miffed, till the woodmen were maffacred by the favages the next day. Upon the whole, we are rather in- clined to think, confidering the ftrength of the place, that the lofs might be fultained in fair combat. M. Marion might Bnd it neceffary for the fafety of his people, to endeavour to drive the favages from their Hippah or Fort, which is one of the ftrongeft in New Zealand. Cap- tain Cook, after dt^fcribing it, adds, that it mud be coniidered as a place of great (trength, in which a fmall number of refoluce men may defend themfelves againd all the force, which a people with no other arms .than thofe that are there in ufe, could bring againft it. M. Cro- zet, therefore, might think it lefs di(honourable to attribute the lofs of his General and fo many men, to the treachery, rather than the valour F 4 of I*'',', •it. « V m ■I yd m ' : »' ■ ■ K'! 32 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. of the ravages. It is acknowledged that they defended the place bravely. But to proceed. On the I4th» the weather began to clear up, and thefe iflands promifing no refrefhment, both (hips purfued their courfe to the S E ; wind WSW; abrilkgale, but piercing cold. The Captain ordered the jackets and troufers to be delivered out, which, with the blankets andother warm clothing provided by the Lords of the Admiralty againft the feverity of the frozen cli- mates, were found of infinite ufe in preferving the men in health, who were mod expoled to the adlion of the froft. . On the 17th, in lat. 48° 27' S. the fogs came on fo thick that we could but juft difcern the largeft objefts at the didance of the fhip's length. This being forefeen, fog-fignals were appointed, and repeated every half-hour. Nothing remarkable till * - The 20th, when we loft fight of the Refolu* tion. Signal guns were fired, falfe fires lighted, and lights hung at the maft-head; but no anfwer received. On the 2 1 ft, in the morning, the fog ftill continuing, a very heavy ftorm came on, attended with fleet, and frequent gufts with hail. All this day we continued firing fignal guns, and at night burning falfe fires, and car- rying lights at themaft-head; but all to no purpofe. On the 2 2d, the gale ftill increafing, we carried Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 3^ carried away our jib-(heet, and fplic the jib; but in the evening it cleared up, and fortunate- ly for both (hips, the Refolution came in fight, which revived the drooping fpirits of the crew, who were now vifibly afFeded in finding them- felves alone in a wide tempeftuous ocean, where they could exped no fuccour in an adverfe mo- ment, if any fuch fliould happen ; and where, from the continual failure of one part or other of the rigging, fuch a moment was much to be dreaded. We were now accompanied with a great va- riety of fea fowl, among which were, pintadoes, (lieerwaters, fulmers, and grey peterels, which lad feldom appear at any confiderable didance from land. ■ On the 23d, (anfwering to the middle of June in the Northern Hemifphere) the weather clear- ed up, and we were proceeding at a great rate, all reefs out, when on a fuddcn the weather coming on hazey, increafrd to a fog, and we again loft fight of the Refolution 5 but on ringing the fog bell, and firing a gun^ we were anfwered by our confort, to our inexpreflible joy. About 12 at noon, the fog began to difperfe, a clear fun-fliine brightened the horizon, and (hewed that we were at no great dift^ance from land. This, as it was unexpefled, was the more welcome. The man at the maft-head anounccd it *, but as it feemed at a great dif- tance, very lofty, with the fummits of its hills involved in mift, fome of our officers who had accom- m i 'ti i >i!: life' •'•'1 .1'^ !! fej" , I 34 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. accompanied Captain Cook in his former voy« age, and had experienced many difappoinc- mencs from the fallacious refemblance of ice iflands to thofe of land, expreiTed their doubts. However, the nearer we approached it, the more convinced we were of its reality. But what feemed to us very (ingular, the fea began to change its complexion, and from a dark green colour, to look white tike milk ; we had indeed obferved the like phoenomenon before, on crolTing the Tropic in the Northern He- noifphere -, but do not recoiled: any fuch appear- ance noticed by former voyagers in thefe high Southern latitudes. On the 29th, we obferved great quantities of fea-weed Boating on the furface, and the fea« birds to encreafe ; and before noon were lb near the land as to difcover rocks towering one upon another, as we imagined, to an immenfe height; but could difcern no plantations or other indica- tions of its being inhabited. As the coaft appear- ed bold and rocky, it was judged proper to proceed with caution. When we firft difcover- cd land, it bore South, but on advancing flow* ly, we came in fight of a feparate ifland, bear- ing S E by S i which in the direftion we firft beheld it, feemed to be part of one and the fame ifland. On the 25th, at fix in the niorning, wore fhips, and Hood in for the land •, we pafled the tremendous rock, which firft came '.i view, and which 1 i Capt. cook's Voyage. 35 vrhich rofe to an aftonilhing height in form of a fugar loaf, and bore away to the Lee Ifland, where we found a bay with good anchorage in 24 fathom water, oozy bottom ; but the furf rather rough and inconvenient for landing and watering. On the 25th, at four in the morning, the boats were fent out to reconnoitre the coaft, and, if pofTible, to difcover a more convenient harbour for taking in water. About feven they returned, having found a bottle with a letter inclofed, importing that in January 1772, this ifland wasdilcovered by M. de Kerguelen •, that it contained plenty of water, but no wood; that it was barren and without inhabitants; but that the fliores abounded with fi(h, and the land with feals, fea- lions and penguins. The har- bour where this bottle was depcfited, being more commodious than that where the (hips were anchored ; and Capt. Cook intending to keep Chriftmas here, and refrelh his men, gave orders to weigh, and the (hips to change their (lation } which orders were indantly obeyed. The contents of the letter inclofed in the bottle were in every refpedl found to be true; a (hort account therefore of the voyager who left it, will be neccflary to render our account of the difcoveries in the South Seas compleat. ** M. de Kerguelen, a Lieutenant in the French fervice, had the command of two fliips given him, the La Fortune, and LeGros Ventre. He r r ' '1 ,' I. I . f ¥'\ . , !■ 'I i'l ilv « 3fi CaPT. COOK'S VoYAQEi He failed from the Mauritius about the latter end of 1 77 1, and on the 13th of January fol- lowing, difcovcrcd the two ifles of which we are now fpeaking, and to which he gave the names of the Ifles of Fortune. Soon after M. de Ker- guclen faw land, as it is faid, of a confiderable extent and height, uport which he fent one of the officers of his own (hip a- head in the cutter, to found. But the wind blowing frefli, the Cap- tain of the other fliip, (M. de St. Allouarn) in the Gros Ventre, (hot a- head, and finding a bay to which he gave his (hip's riame, ordered HIS yawl to take poffeffioa. In the mean time, M. de Kerguelen being driven to leeward, and unable again to recover his (lation, both boats fcturned on board the Gros Ventre, and the cutter was cut a-drift on account of the bad weather. M. Kerguelen returned to the Mau- ritius, and M. de St. Allouarn continued for three days to take the bearings of this land, and doubled its Northern extremity, beyond which it trended to the South-eaftward. He coafled it for the fpace of twenty leagues, but finding it high and inacceflible, and dellitute of trees, he (haped his courfe to New Holland, and from thence returned by way of Timor and Batavia, to the Ifle of France, where he died. M. de Kerguelen was afierwards promoted to the command of a 64 gun fl)ip, called the RoUand, with the frigate TOifeau, in order to perfect the difcovery ol this pretended land ^ but returned •** with i( Capt. COOK'S VoYAGfi. 37 with difgrace, pretending again to have juft fcenit." '■■■'-' "^ ,1. .^- That the iflands we now fell in with are the fame difcovered by Kerguelen, there cannot re- main a doubt } but that M. de Kerguelen- ever faw a great country, fuch as he pretends, in or rear thofe iQands is very problematical. There are indeed numberlefs idands thinly fcattered in this almoft boundkfs ocean, as every day's ex- perience evinces *, but that there are none fo fu- perior to thofe already difcovered in riches and cultivation, as to be worth the fearch, wili fcarcely admit of a quellion. , We were now bufied on board in repairing our rigging, which had fuffertfd much in the fre- quent fqualls with which we had been harralTed ever fince our departure from the Cape ; at the fame time, thofe who were on (hore were no lefs ufefully employed in fupplying the (hips with water, and the crews with frefh provifions ; which laft, though not of the mod delicate kind, yet to ftomachs cloyed almofl to loathing with fait provifions, even fcals, penguins, and fea*fowl were not unfavory meat. On the 27th, our repairs being nearly com- pleted, and a great part of our water on board, Chriflmas was proclaimed } a double quantity ofgrogferved out to each common man i and a certain proportion of wine and fpirits to every petty officer : leave was likewife given to fuch as were ailing, to go alhore for the benefit of the v# m-- I'U V.'lii ' (> m 3S Capt. cook's Voyage. the land air ; and the officers of both (hips re- ciprocally met in compliment to each other ; paft dangers were forgotten, and the day was fpent by the common failors with as much mirth and unconcern as if fafely moored in Portf- mouth harbour. On the 28th, parties were fent out to procure what vegetables the ifland produced, by way of refrefhment ; but none were found for culinary purpofes, except a kind of wild cabbage, and chat in fmall quantities, and gathered with much labour among the cliffs of the rocks. Mr. Nel- fon, a gentleman whom Mr. Banks fent out to colled fuch varieties as he (hould find indige« nous to the idands and climates through which he fhould pafs, found growing among thofe cliffs, a kind of yellow mofs of a filky fofcnefs, which he had not yet difcovered in any of his former refearches. On the 29th, the Refolutlon weighed, with orders to furround the ifiand, in order to ex- plore the oppofite fide, which, however, upon examination, was found equally barren, craggy, deep, and defolate, with that we had jud left. Penguins and fea-lions, were its chief inhabi- tants, among which our people made great havock ; of the former for the fake of provi- fion, penguins having been found tolerable eating when frcfh, or juft falted-, and of the latter, for blubber, which was afterwards boiled and con- verted into oil on our arrival at New Zealand. On the 30th, at nine in the morning, we weighed. Capt. cook's Voyage. 39 weighed, and took leave of this IQand, which we found by obfervation to lie in lac. 49" 30' S. yii° lo'long. At 12 the louthernmofl: part of the land bore S S W 4 S. diftanc about five leagues. "We now purfued our courfe for Van Dieman's land, and having no difcoveries in view, took every advantage of the weather to carry fail. On the ift of January, 1777, we obfervcd great quantities of fea-weed pafllng to leeward in a direction contrary to that we had feen in approaching the iQand, which gave reafon to fuppofe there were other lands at no great diftance, and affords fome ground for believing that M. de Kerguelen might have feen other lands in this latitude. Nothing more remark- able prefented till The 14th, when a hurricane arofe, accom- panied with fo thick a fog, that our (hips were every moment in danger of falling foul one of the other. We kept the fog- bell conilantly ringing and guns Hring, which were anfwered by the Refolution. The wind blew with fuch vio- lence that we were obliged to take in all our fails, to ilrike our top-gal tant- mads, and to feud under our bare poles. This dorm continued with more or lefs violence till the 19th, during which time the Refolution had carried away her main- top-maft, and fore-top-gallant-malt and yard ; and the Adventure had loft her top-gallant-fails, fplit her middle ftay- fails, and had fcarce half a yard remaining of her jib. '".''.' On m 40 Capt. cook's Voyage; On the 20th in the morning, we lay by to repair our rigging ; and the weather brighten- ing up with a brifk but moderate gale in the afternoon, we fet ail the fails we could, unreefed our top-fails, and run at the rate of feven and eight miles an hour biy the log, both ihips in company. On the 2 2d, the weather continuing clear and moderate, Mr. King, the fecond Mace of the Refolution came on board to compare the time- pieces. He brought word that the Ihip's crew were in perfeft health, thofe only excepted who had been hurt at the Cape, and even they were iit to do duty; and that the damage they had received during the blowing weather, was not fo confiderable as might have been expected. On the 24th in the morning, the man at the mad-head called out, Land, didance about 5 leagues, the Mewllone, fo called by Capt. Furneaujc, in 1773, bearing NE|:E. Made the fignal for feeing it, which was aofwered by the Refolution. ^ On the 25th, founded and found ground ac ^5 fathom, fandy and (helly bottom. On the 26th, flood off and on to find the bay, called by Tafman, Frederic Henry's Bay. On the 27th came too, and moored in 14 fathom water, and was prefently joined by the Refolution. No fooner were the Ihips properly fecured than the pinnace was ordered to be launched, the boats to be manned, and all hands U Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 4' hands fct to work in wooding, watering, over- hauling the xigging, and getting every thing in readinefs to continue our courfe. The officers, aftronomers and gentlemen on board boih (hips eagerly embraced the oppor- tunity of going afliore to take a view of this delightful country, with the appearance of which all on board were charmed. The firft thing that attraded ournotice were the trees, that by their magnitude and loftinefs exceeded every thing we had ever feen of the kind : but what was remarkable we found many of them burnt near the ground, and n'^t a few lying in a horizontal pofition, which being much fcorch- ed had been thrown down by the violence of the wind. . , . , . On the 28th, Capt. Cook, accompanied by officers and gentlemen from both (hips, and guarded by a party of marines, made a fecond excurlion into the country in order to make , difcoveries, and to procure, if poffible, an in- terview with fome of the inhabitants •, they penetrated feveral miles through paths that fcemed to have been frequented, before they could get fight of any human being, till at length paffing by the edge of an almoll impe- netrable thicket they heard a ruftling which ae firft they miftook for the roufing of fome wild beaft i but fcarching clofcly they found it to be a girl quite naked and alone. At firft fhe Teem- ed much frightened i but being kindly treated, and her apprchenfions of death removed^ (ho G became lOi m 'W 42 Capt. COO'K^s Voyaob. H! ( * I became docile, and ready to anfwer every thing we could render inteUigible to her andcrftand- ing. We queftioned her concerning her refl- ' dence, which we did by pointing to every beat- en path, walking a little way in it, and then returning and taking another, making; motiorisr ' to her at the fame time to lead us along and we would follow her. To make her iquite eaff,; one of our company pulled off his handkerchii^t* and put it about her neck byway of ornanient," and another covered her head with his cap, and * then difmilTed her. She ran among the bu(he^,' and in lefs than an hour nine men of the middle ' flature made their appearance, naked but armed" according to the falhion of their country ; thefe ' were kindly treated by the company, one gende- ' tnan giving to one a partof his cloathing, another putting fomething upon a fccond, and fo on tiir' each had received fome trifling ornament for ^ his perfon, when all took their flight at ohce as if by fignal, and vaniflicd in an inftant.' '-''*^^ It was not long, however, before the girl we had lirll feen returned, and with her feveral women, fome with children on their backs, tied by a kind of hempen firings, and fome with- out children, Thefe were likewifc kindly re- ceived, and led to the place where the wooders were at work, with whom it was not long be- fore they became acquainted. They were how- ever moft miferabie looking obje6ts, and Omai, though led by natural impulfe to an inordinate defirc Capt. cook's VoVACiB,' 43 defife fdr wonrten, wasf (a difguft(?i with them that he fired his piedcirt the aif to fi-ighten therrt from his fight, which f6r that time Had the de- fired effe*^. Night coming on, we all returned to our reipeftive fhrpt. ; '' •'''|'; *-"^ ' • ' On the 28th, we e«ended otrr exctrr/Jons fHtt'^ditl'ie^ into the et)btTtry, dnd fo CiTtd it beau- tifully rfiverflficd with hills and vallies, ftarely g^dvis of trees, rivers, meadows and lawns of vail extent, with thickets full 6f birds of the tiibf! Berfmiful pktnrjajte, parrots* ahxf paroquets, and birds of various notes whofe melody was tridy enchanting -, befides thefe ^fe found fome hgdons foil of ducks, teal, and other wild fowl i of whichwefhoc great numbers, wfjil^ourNa- turalifts were loading tSiemfelves-^^Ttli the fpon- taneous prodoftidhs of*t!he foil ; a Ibtl, we may' vemme to fay, thte richef! and moft fertile of any in the habirabfe 6l6b^, the ti^ee§ gr<^wir»g eo' an aftortifliirhg height aind fiz^, itid not more bcauelfitf to the eye, thfen they are gratefiri to the fmell. We found fome that role ninety feet high^ withdut a knot, and of a girt thati-werc we to report lU would render the credit 6f the re-^ porter doubtful. Ft was now the time wherr' Nature pdurs forth her Idxuriant exuberance tot eto'ath th'i^ country with eVery variety, bur what appeared ftrange f6 us, the few* natives v>t faw were wholly rnfcnfible of thofe Weffings,^ and fcenned to live like the beafts of the forcft in roving parties* without arts of any kind, '^'^" ■' . G 2 fltcpiug m f4^ ;l! i^ ■(': ; 3 K - ':!''^' ■^ si ■ ' [ ' i ' f '■ > f ^ i > j f ' ' 1 ; i ' '' /. 1 ■ ■'■■1 1^' ■ •■ • ' n v' !! p ' ' ■^! !l n 44 Capt. cook's Voyage. deeping in fummcr, like dogs, under the hol- low fides of the trees, or in wattled huts made with the low branches of ever-green flirubs ftuck in the ground at fmall diftances from each other, and meeting in a point like Iheavcs of corn in a field here after barveft. ' « -» Our fifliermen were no lefs fuccefsful in fifti- ing during our ftay than our fowlers in (hooting wild fowl i infomuch that nothing was wanting to make our living here delicious.. ,-.^,.,^ f*^.. On the 30th, the poor wretches of natives being now divcfted of their fears, iflued from the thickets like herds of deer from a forcft, and drew themfelvcs up in ranks on the beech, making figns for our people to come on fliore» probably with a view to partake of our bounty* certainly not with any defign to do us any hurt. They were indeed armed with lances about two feet long, terminated by a (bark's tooth or piece; of bone (harpened to a point, which they threw to a great diflance, and to a great nicety ; but thefe lances were the whole of their armour. ^ o There were among them, as among all the inhabitants, of the countries in the Southern Oceaor (bme to whom the multitude feemcd to pay obedience, though even thefe were here without any marks of diilindion, other than isifiture (ladbeftowed upon their perfons. This indelible dignity, through all the clalTes of anir, mal nature, has marked fome to rule, while Qlher$,cicftitutc of that advantage, \yillingly fub* jif mit* Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 45 mic, and arc contented to obey. To thcfe chiefs, as no quadrupeds of any kind were feen in the country, Capt. Cooic gave a boar and a fow, and made (igns to turn them loofe in the woods where it is pofTible they may have a better chance to breed than among the more ferocious inha- bitants of New Zealand, where feveral of them had formerly been turned loofe. He alfo offered them nails, knives, beads, and other triBes, to which they paid little or no attention, but were greedy after ihreds of red cloth. . .s . It does not appear that the natives here are canibals, or indeed that they feed at all upon flelh, as no appearance of any fuch food could be traced among them. Fifh, fruir, and the natural produflions of theearch, were the only articles of food that were obfervable about their fire-places *, but what was dill more flrange, there . wa? neither canoe nor boat to be fcen, though the country abounded fo much in tim- ber. It may therefore be reafonably concluded, that thefe natives are a fort of fugitives who have been driven out from fome more powerful community, and fubfift here in a (late of ba- nilhment, as it is hardly poHlble otherwife to conceive fo fine a country poffefled by a people wholly defticute of all the arts of civil life* , Capt. Cook prefcnted their chiefs with Me- dals (great quantities of which he carried out with him to be diHributed among the chiefs wherever he went) infcribed with the names of . G 3 the ■';! i-*-! i?5i Mi .'•if m ii> ii!'^: ..' r, I i I I I' m ". ( hi I ;:: a6 CaPT. COOIC'8 VOYAOI. the (hips and the Comtoanders } wUh che dace of the ye^ dnd chat of his Majcfty's r$igB i in order to perpetuate the memory of this Voy* age, provided any fuc' -iv^ ^'^^i^i-- v y. i, ..ri;.:?;d ' On the 31(1, having been here and on the coaft near ftven days, and having got plenty of wood and water en board, and whatever ^Ife the country afforded, the fignal was made for unmooring. By ten in the morning the Hiips ^ere under fail, and at twelve Cape Frederic Henry bore N by W. We fet out with an eafy gale; bur, before nfght, fqualls camt on, which made it necefTary to double reef our top fails, and fo to continue till break of day. ^^ ::t: ::-- On the ift of February we fet our top- gal- lant fails, both fhips in companyi ftecrifig a diredl courfe for New Zealand, and in nine days Came in fight of Adventurer's Ifliftd, tliftanc ^bout niheoi- ten leagues from Chariotte Sound. On the ibth we vfttc off Charlotte's Bay, bur deftined place of rendezvous. V'^^^^^^^^ On the i.2,th, in Handing for the Sound, the Difcovery had the misfortune to flrike upon a rock ; bui by the affiftance of the Re'fdludon was warped off without receiving any confider- able damage •, and about cwo in the afternoon both (hips moored in 9 fathom Wi water. ?M»g' 4-»t *l#!'*ii' N6t m CilPT. COOK'S VOVAGB. 47 Wot a man on board who did not now think httnfelf at home, fo much like Great-Britain is the Idand of Newr Zealand. It is between fix and feven hundred miles in length, but varying in breadth, being broadell towards the middle, and narrowing at the extremities. In this ic feems to differ from the regular courfe of nature in the formation of Idands and even of Conti* nents, where, like infers, they feem to be di* vided in the middle, and only conneibed to- gether by an inconlideraole fpace. Almoft every idand of any extent in the Southern Ocean is divided in this manner. The Continent cf Europe, Afia and Africa is held together by a thread in comparifon at the Ifthmus of Suez, and North and South America in like manner as that of Darien. 'iii ^^ a .o f .jjiiio;; .i*; , • We were no fooner fccurely moored in Char- lotte Sound, together with the Refolution, than the natives came in droves to welcome our arrival; to bring us fiQi*, and to offer to trade*, but every hand being then employed, little or no notice was taken of their overtures 5 feme of our people were bufy in carrying out the tents, others in creding them on (bore ; fome in form- ing intrencjimcnts for the fccurity of the ftores, and fome in unfhipping (lores; in Ihort, not an idle perfon being to be found to attend to them, the lavages, thinking themfclves neg- leded, departed, feemingly very much dilcon- tenicd. ' Jirii> ^.l; G4 On 0- m Si's ■ * *' i> }.:i [..I'M il!i > 'i. ■ : li >' 1 >■ i 'if ?IX m t .: , t. y fl ' 'B i ■ !-.^ . i,' '■■!V> i 1 ■ 1' • ! ' ■ r ;. ( P> ■ " 48 C/PT. C O O K'S VOYACJE. On the 13 th, wc had hard fqualls with hcivy rain. During the intervals of fun-(hine, we obferved feveral water-fpouts, but none near us. Mr. Fofter, who accompanied Capt. Cook in his former voyage, in his paflage from Dufky Bay to this Sound, had frequent opportunities of obferving thefe phsenomcna, and has given the following defcription of them. Their bafes, he fays, where the water of the fea was violently agitated, and rofe in a fpiral form in vapours, was a broad fpor* which looked bright and yellowilh, when illuminated by the fun. Diredly over this fpoc, a cloud gradually tapered into a long (lender tube, which feemed to defcend to meet the rifing fpiral, and foon united with it into a flrait column of a cylindrical form. We could diftinftly obferve the water hurled upwards with the greatcd violence*, and it appeared, that it left a hollow fpace in the centre. He adds, that thefe water-fpouts made the oldeft mariners uneafy, all, without excepiion, had heard dreadful accounts of their pernicious ef- fc6ts, when they happen to break over a (hip, but none had ever been (o befet with them. On the 14th, at feven in the morning, the pinnaces of both (hips were ordered to be inanned, and both Captains went on (hore with other gentlemen to reconnoitre the coun- try, without venturing too far at firft, for fear of a furprize. Before they landed they were obferved by an old man, who approached the (horei holding -i green bough in his hand» and waving Hi i i Capt. COOK'S VoYACE^ 49 wavinof it in fign of peace, which was inftandf anfwercd by hoifting a white flag. Friendfliip beiner be known, though ic appeared that the latter was the fole employ- ment of their won^cn. - r-f t.^^? •♦rh iiv .^(-t During our refidence here, chough nothing was to be found but vegetables and fi(h, fuch was the plenty of both, that' loads of the for* mer were to be procured for the labour of cut- ting and carrying away, and of the latter as much as was fufficient for the fuftenance of one pcrfon a whole day for a (ingle nail.i :/* Ij:^ It It had been obfcrved by former voyagers, that the women in this ifland were chafter, when Brft vificed by our people, than thofe in the warmer climates, probably owing to the phyfic .1 effe^^s of their colder conftkutlons ; not to the reftridion of any law, or the force . of cuftom ; nor to that delicacy of fentimenc that naturally excites thofe fympathetic fenfa- tions that in a more advanced ftatc of reBne- ment, ferve to bind the fexes in the indelible bonds of mutual fidelity. Buc, to whatever caufc it might be owing before the ioof.*r paf- iions, by their commerce wit'i the European failors, took root among them, they have been found to thrive fo well, that they now exceed all others in indulging chem. Even the men are now become fo abandoned, as to prollituce their very wives for a nail, and lay no rctlrainc on I Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 51 on their d^ughcersp «f whom the ipeo make liitljc jficcpuni. ' » • '' > ' J( wa^ no Iboner known that our (hips were fnoored in Charlotte ibund, than the natives jQocke^ from the remoteft corners of the illand fo |ra|i£ for nails, broken gla(s, beads, or Qther European trumpery, for which they would feU (heif j^'ms, clothes, and whatever elfe they were pQiTtfiTed pfi not even refer viog their work- ing ^mplempnts, which they could not replace with<^u^ infinite labour. The wpmen, who accompanied thefe com- mercial emigrants, were no lefs faleable, thaa the wares chey brought, and the favours of maoy were purchafed by the feamen, who, tho' the 6rft price was triBing, colt them dear in the end. This traffic was carried to a (hame- iefs height, and Omai, who, from natural incli- nation and the licentious habits of his country, felt no reilrainc, indulged his almolt jnfatiable appetite with more than favage indecorum. Before our prefcnt arrival, it had been quef- tioned, even by Capt. Cook, whether thcle iflanders would fell their children to Grangers ; but experience has now taught us, that there is nothing they will not fell for iron, fo great is their dcfirc for that metal. The love of gold is noc more prevalent in Europe, than the lov;: of iron in New Zealand. The llory which Capt. Cooke relates, in proof of the irrefiltable Torce of Nature in the rctcniivc care of their ., .»^ chil- ,'! .' !)•; ' 1-1 i 52 Capt. COOK*s VoYAdE. children only (hews, that he himlelf had er- red in the concluHons he had drawn from \t» > *' One of ihem, fays Capt. Cook, agreed to go with us *, but afterwards changed his mind. It was even faid that fome of them offered their children to fale. I however found this to be a miftake. The report firft took its rife on board the Adventure, where they were utter (Irangers to their language and cuftoms. It was very common for thefc people to bring their children with them, and prefent theni to us, in expectation that we would make them pre* fents, this happened to me. A man brought his fon, a boy about nine or ten years of age, and prefented him to me. As the report of felling their children was then prevalent, I thought, at Brd, that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at lad I found, that he wanted me to give him a white Ihirt, which accordingly I did. The boy was fo fond of his new drefs that he went all over the fliip, prcfenting him- felf before every one who came in his way. This freedom, ufed by him, offended old ^/"/V/, the ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on the deck. /iT/// would have repeated his blv)w,had not romc of the people come to the bo/s alTiftance. The misfortune, however, fecmcd to him irreparable. The (hirt was dirted, and be was afraid to ap- pear in the cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr. Fofter ; when he was told a lament- able -i 4 1.^ Capt. cook's Voyage.. 53 able ftory againft Goury^ the great dpg (for fo they called all the quadrupedes on board) nor could he be reconciled, till his ihirt was ^allied and dried." This ftory, adds the Captain, tho* trifling, will (hew how liable we are toniiftakc thofe people's meaning, and to afcribe to them cuftoms they never knew, even in thought"— This reflexion recoiled upon himfelf ; for Capt. Cook lived to fee the truth of the report con- firmed, and that the favourable opinion he hat} conceived, of the natural aflfedion ojf thcfe fa*, vages for their children, was not well founded. On the 1 6th in the morning feveral natives came along ^\dt the Refolution to trade as ufual. Then Omai, who was plentifully furniOied with every kind of iron ware, difplayed his mer- chandize to the greatcft advantage. The fa- vages, inflamed with the richnefs of the exhi- bition, perfeftly trembled as they ftood, and were ready to board the (hip, at the peril of their lives, to make themfclves nailers of what appeared to them fo va(l a treafure. This, to an European, to whom nails, bioken glafs, and Ihreds of red cloth, are of little or no value, may fecm exaggerated j but to thofe who have traverftfd the globe, and marked the impetuofity of the favage*s pafllons when excited to a cer- tain pitch, will rather wonder how they could be rcftrained, than that rhcy Ihould be ready to commit any defperate a£k'on to poitrfs them- fclves of thofe things which appeared of fo much value ^S\ 14 itm ll§| ii'l i f 1 1 1 ( > i 1 ■1 •i ^4 Ca?t. COOK'S Voyage. ' value in (heir cyts. Orttai, though but one ^figxtt i^idwt the faVige whom hedelpifcd, yet had eunhlrtg enough to take advantage of the deifires which he had excited, and after ptir- cfcafirig from them evefy aiticle that fuited him, he artfully alked One- party of them, if they wouFd fell tHcir boat ? td which they readily confcnted. Obferving two promising youths on board witH another party, he afked the father if he would not part with his boys. The youths looked wi;^ eagernefs at their father, as if they wTlhed to follow the mail that was fo rich, and t'he father, (cemirtgly as willing to part with the kds as they were to go, replied in the affir- mative, and the bargain was initahtfy flruck. Thus for two hatchets and a few nails he pur- chafed two fine boys, the cldeft named Tibura, about . 1 5 years oW, and the youngeft called Gowah, about ten. ,'". • . • / * * On the 17th the Captains of both (hips, with other oiBcersand gentlemen, embarked on board the Pinnace, attended by a party of marines, well armed, ana directed their courfe to the noith-weft, round Canibai bay for Long Ifland, and Grafs Cove-, there they vifited the fpot where the boat's crew belonging to the Adven- ture was murdered about four years before; but did not find any trace of that horrid • ^alfdcre remaining, nor any native from whom they rniKht learn the caule. ^".si H 7ni*v ,y mai \f m Capt. GO.OK's Voyagb. 55 Omai» Who couU fcarce make himfelf un-i derflioody nor ituleecl could he underftand ihd ^ natives (o well as many of the . doaimon men [ wh«i natives, ^nd was deflred by him^ when he mett any of thenii ^lonie^ toqueftion th^m concernifll; ? the ftay that had happened fome ye^rs before^,; and from whagcau^ jt had taken its rifes anc|> he was the more ^efirous to coqm at the triuh«. as the nativei ingjeneral were fffendly and reader , to furnilh the (h;i|>$ with what eyer their coun,-., try afforded. But from w bat , Omai was able to r learn,, Capt. Cook received no fati&fadion. Ic. fhould feem, that in Otaheite there are two dia-, le^s rpoken, as in almod eyecy ojjher part of the world ; one by the prien;s andr chiefs and ano- . thci* by the con>mon) people. This was appa>» '. rem here ; fov Tiipia, who accompanied Mr* Banks to this pi^e^ in Captr Cook*s fecond voyage round the world, couW converfe with . the natives fluently* and was in.luch edeem with , them, that his memory is held in veneration ., frofn one end gf the idand to the other at this , day ; Obedec lik^wile, who was of the clafs of Areocs, or gentlemen, and who accompanied . Cape. Cook in his laft voyage fiom Otahcite to . the Thrum Ifles, the Hebrides, New Zealand, E4ler Ifland, and the MarquiCfes* could con- , v^rfe with the New Zcalandcrs though Omai . could I-!- M m f 1 :-^,t -.. f m Mi- l: f J- gti 1 '■■iVt , M '/i: II f;i' y • 1 1: t 1 ! ? ', li ", '; ^ ■J^ 1 ■ 1 :;i 1 if, ' ' I '^^f 56 Capt. coo K * s Voyage. > could not, a proof that he was of the inferior chfs in his own country. While we continued here, he found frequent opportunities to difco-*- ▼er his real chara(fi:er,^-when from under .the watchful eye of his protedor and friend.-^ He had grog always at. his command, and was fometimes enrrufled to give it out, efpecially ' when any extra quantity was to be delivered by the Captain^s orders for hard ferviccf, or on days of fcftivity. At thof^ times he was clofely . watched, and was never known to exceed \ but now when the Captam was abroad for whole days and nights, and he left r^n charge of liquors^ he fet no bounds to his excefs, and would drinic ' till he wallowed like a fwine in his own filch. At thofe times he out-a6led the fav'age in every ■ kind of fenfuality ; and when he could no lon- ger aft the brute, he would often afl the drunk- - en man ; ftorming, roaring, brandlHiing his arms, and by the contortions of his mouth and face, fetting at defiance, after the manner of his country, the whole hoft of his enemies^ who were reprelcnted by the common failors, with whom, upon thefe occafions, he was ge- nerally furrounded ; and who knew how to pradice upon him, as he endeavoured to do upon the poor Zealanders. He was indeed far from being ill-natured, vindidtive, or morofe. but he was fometimes fulky. He was naturally humble, but had grown proud by habit } and it fo ill became him, that he was always glad when '>.» Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 57 when he could put it off, and would appear among the petty officers with his natural ea^*. This was the true character of Omai, who might be faid, perhaps, by accident, to have been raifed to the highell pitch of human hap- pinefs, only to fuffer the oppofice extreme by being again reduced to the lowefl: order of ra* tional beings. In the excurlion of the two Captains among the Ifles, plentiful provifion was made for the live dock on board, and the long boats of both ihips came heavily laden home with grafs for the cattle and vegetables for the ihip's com- panies from the gardens of Motuara and Long Ifland, which were found to remain in a flou- rifliing though flovenly condition. To thequa- drupeds, which the Captains Cook and Furneaux had left to breed in the ifland in their former voyages, our Captains added two yews and a ram, thofe that had been left before of this fpecies having died almoft as foon as fent on lhore.:^>i .i*^', ■'.'';. %"^'.*-L .^L A ♦fi-«< - - i-- Wooding, watering, airing the (lores, dry- ing and new packing the powder, examining and new baking the damaged bread, forging bolts and new pintles for the rudders, with other neceflary bufinefs for repairs of the fhip, went on without intermifllon on (hore. By the abfence of fo many ufeful hands \ fmiths, armourers, gunners carpenters, rope and fail makers, with their attendants 5 very few peo- '.1 . H pic i'6> :.'t . • f ^j Capt. COOK'S Voyagb; pie wci^ kft on board to take charge of che fliipst nothing being apprehended from the attempts of the natives, who had hitherao behaved with unexaAipled honefly, hardly any cottiplahics havicrg been preferred agaiafi; anf of them for mifbehaviour of any kkktL In this ftiuatioiii, with fcaroe mee enough otk board to hand the fails, a dorm aroie in the morning of the i9tb, which before ten o'clock drore the Difcovery from her moorings, and it ^as owing to Providence that having nm foul of the Refolution, we did not pcrilb, tJae furge carrying her off inftantaneoufly wich little damage to either (hip. All hands ok board were thrown into the uttnoft condonation. No fooner was (he ck^r than we dropped the befl: bower anchor, got down the top gallant yardls, ftruck the top-gallant tnafts, and low- iered the yards, got in the cables, and moored with beft bower and ifafeet anchors ; and thus fortunately rode out the llorm. Mr. Blythe, mailer of the Refolution, and Mr. Bentham our Captain's clerk, feeing the danger the (hips were in, and at the hazard of their lives attemp- ting to get on board in a canoe, were overfet, but providentially recovered by the boats from the fliips. The gale continuing the whole day, no Indians came to trade. :><»'V en -zo^w It Ihould have been remembered that, from the time of landing, our brewers began brew- ing 5 and the woods affording plenty of fpruce the s CAPTi COOK'S VOYAGB. 59 thf crews of both (hips were fupplied with ^his wholefome beverage during Pur continuance at New ZeaUnd, and for feveral weeks ^tft^r we were »( fea* TbU liquor was found fo (salu- tary, that it feem^ to ftrike at the very root of the fcurvy, and left nQl the leaft fymptom of It remaining about ^ny mftn in fbe (hip* Jnde^ great care wa? taken to fupply th* erew daily with plenty of fcurvyi-grafs and wild celery to boil with their portable foup ; and fak meat was witheld, and B(h fubftituted in its room. This laft the Indians abundantly provided at a trifling expcnce, and what is not a little lurprizing, when our filhers copld catch the leaft, they generally caught the moft, thd* their implements (hewed infinitely Icfs ingenuity in the conllrudlion, than thofe with which our. ^people were furnifbed. It is not eafy to fay by what arts they allured the fi(h -, but certainly fome means were ufed by them, to which we are ftrangers, nor would they ever be prevailed upon to difcover tlieir fccret. .j -.no :o t Lr^'', During our ilay in Charlotte Sound* an ad- venture happened which, though the parties were not of the higbcft clafs, m^y, nptwi;h- ftamcjing, be worth relating. Belonging to the Difcovery there w^s a youth, with whom a young 2^ealander girli about fourteen years of age, fell defperately in love, nor was (he whplly indilFerent to oyr adventurer. What time he could fpare, he H 2 generally I i H > t • ! Mm '<%,!' ^ ' ■■ j' "> 'Si \h'k ^:j'»! I ' ' I li \« I- [ ' i' Hi '■ ' ^. ^o Capt. COOK'S Voyage. retired with her, and they fpent the day, but oftenerthe night, in a kind of filent converfa- tion, in which, though words were wanting, their meaning was perfectly underftood. Mo- ments fly rapidly on that are fpent in mutual endeavours to pleafe. She, on her part, had no will but his ; and he, in return, was no lefs at- tentive to hers. Minds fo difpofed naturally incline to render themfelves agreeaible; A con* formity in manners and drefs become fignifi* cant Hgns between lovers. Though he ap- peared amiable in her eyes in the drefs of a ilranger, yet he wilhed to render himfelf ftill more lo, by ornamenting his perfon after the faQiion of her country; accordingly he fub- mitted to be tattowed from head to foot ; nor was (he lefs foUicitous to fet herfelf off to the bed advantage. She had fine hair, and her chief pride was in the drefs of her head. The pains (he took, and the decorations (he ufed, would have done honour to an European beauty, had not one thing been wanting to render it ilill more pleafing. Ghowannahe (that was her name,) though young, was not fo delicate but that the traits of her country might be traced in her locks. To remedy this misfor- tune, and to render it lefs ofFenfive, (he was furnifhed with combs, and taught by her lover how to ufe them. After being properly pre- pared, he would by the hour amufe himfelf with forming her hair into ringlets, which flow- ing Capt; cook's Voyage. ^1 ing carelefsly round her neck, with a kind of coronet rifing from her temples, gave her an air of dignity that added frcih charms to the brilliancy of her eyes. The didafle arifing from colour gradually wore off, and the ardent de« fire of rendering their fentiments more and more intelligible to each other, gave rife to a new language, confiding of words, looks, gef- tures, and inarticulate tones, by which plea- fure and pain were more forcibly exprelTed than by the mofl: refined fpeech. Having at firlt acquired the art of imparting their padions^ they very foon improved it to the ftory of their lives. Love and jealoufy direded her enquiries concerning the women in the world from whence he came, wilhing, at the fame time, that he would flay with her, and be a Kakikoo or chief. He made her to underfland, that the women, in his world were all tatoo (man-killers) and if he ftayed with her (he would kill him. She anfwered no •, flie would th-na-row^ love him. He faid, her people would kill him. She re- plied no, if HE did not (hoot them. He made her to underftand, that nine or ten of the men of his world, had been killed and eaten by her people, though they did not (hoot them. Her anfwer was, that was a great while ago, and the people came from the hills rod roHy meaning a great way off". This excited his curiofity to know, if any of her relations were among the murderers : (he fighed, and appeared , ; ' y^ ^ much '.k h 1^ h 5.J, m 'i%M> W -Wfi 51;- 1;^ . ;; i-'i' ' f, ^£ CAi^t. COOK*» Voyage. much atfeftied when he afked her that quedion; He alked her if (he was at the feaft, when they ht^Wtd And eat the meft f (he wept and lookiftg wiihfuHy at him^ hung down her head. He becafrre (Hll tii6re prefling As (he grew tnoref referved. He tried tvtry winning Way that lovt ahd curidfity fuggefted, to learn from her what he ibund fhe kne^, afrd What Ihe Teemed fo determined to conceal. But ftie artfully c* Vaded all his qufcftionis. He alked her, why fhe was fo fccret ? She pretended not to un- detdand him. He repeated the fame iqueftion, and why ihe kept him in the dark, at the f^me time doiing his eyes and keeping them (hut. She ^ntinued to weep, but made him no anfwer. Finding all his peifuations inelfeiflual, he turn* ed (torn her, feemingly in anger, and thrcat- tutd to leave her. She caught him round the Deck in violent Agitation. He a(ked her wha;t Ihe meant, and why (he. Wept? She faid they would kill her if (he told. He fard, they fhOulow pow, by only throw- ing water over them, and then they coukl nof hurt them. Gooboa undertook to condu(^ them in fafety to the place where the ftrangers were to come, and (hewed them where they might conceal themfelves, till he (hould come and give them notice, which he did. And when the men were bufy about getting grafa, and not thinking any harm» the warriors rufhed out upon them, and killed them with their patapatows, and then divided their bodies a- mong them. She added, that there were wo- men as well as men concerned, and that the women made the (ires, while the warriors cut the '; :: ''" * h 4 " * dead im '?* i III ml :im li|Hi4 64 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; dead men in pieces j that they did not cat them all at once, but only their hearts and livers ; that the warriors had the heads, which were eftcemed the beft, and the reft of the flelh was diftributed among the croud. Having, by various queftions in the courfe of fevcral days, extorted this rela- tion, of which, he faid, he had no reafon to doubt the truth, he forbore to afk her, what part her relations and herfelf bore in this tra- gedy, as there was reafon to believe, they were all equally concerned. He was, however^ very follicitous to learn, if any fuch plot was now in agitation againft the people that might be fent, upon the fame fcrvice, to Grafs Cove or any other convenient place. Her anfwer was, nO) the warriors were afraid, at Brft, that the (hips were come to revenge the death of their friends, and that was the reafon why (he was forbidden to fpeak of killing the ftrangers, or to own any knowledge of it, if ftie were afked about any fuch thing. She faid (he was but a child, not ten years old i but (he remem- bered the talk of it, as a gallant aflion or great atchievement i and that they made fongs in praife of it. /. . ' In the courfe of his converfation with this girl, who feemed rather of the better fort, he learned many things concerning the natural temper of the natives, that had efcaped the penetration of former voyagers, and likewife with rcfped to their domcftic policy. She faid, ' • the ' Capt. COOK'S VovAOB. 6$ the people of T'Avl-Poenammoo, or the fouthern divifion of the iOand, were a fierce bloody people, and had a natural hatred to the people of Ea-hei-no-mauwe, and killed them when they found them at any time in their country; but that the people of Ea-hei-no- mauwe were a good people, and were friendly to one another, but never fufFered any of the people ot T'Avi-Poenanimoo to fettle among them, becaufe they were enemies *, that theftp two nations, the people on the north part of the Sound, and thofe of the fouth were ever at war, and eat one another ^ but that the people of either country, when they fought, never eat one another; [fo that it ihouldfeem,that habitual antipathy has a great (hare in the ten- dency of thefe favages to devour one another.] With refped to their domeftic policy, (he faid, the fathers had the fole care of the boys as foon as they could walk, and that the girls were left wholly at their mother's difpofal. She faid, it was a crime for a mother to correal her fon, after he was once taken under the protection of the father ; and that it was always refented by the mother if the father interfered with the management of the daughters. She faid, the boys, from their infancy, were trained to war, and both boys and girls were taught the art of fiHiing, to weave their nets, ani make (heir hooki and lines ; that their canoes came from a far country, and they got them in ex- change for cluth, which was chiefly manu- factured .-M r !l;:1; (if) / I i ' m n m If 1 ft f' €6 Capt. coo K' h VoYACk ^ fafturedby the women; that their arms and working tools defcended from father to ibis and that thofe that were taken in battle fup^ plied the riling generation; that they had no kings among them, but that they had men who converfed with the dead, who were held in great veneration, and- confulted before the people went to the wars ; that they were the men, who addrelTed Grangers that came upon the coafl, Brft in the language of peace, at ihe fame time denouncing vengeance againll them, if they came with any holtile delign ^ that the perfons of thefe men were held facred, and never killed in the wars which ever fide prevailed; that when the warriors of either nation made prifoners, they were never of the meaner fort, but of fome chief, whom they afterwards killed and eat, but that to the com- mon fort they never gave quarter ; that they fometimes tortured an enemy, if they found liim fingly lurking in the woods, looking upon him as one who came upon no good deHgn ; but never otherwifir; that they lived chiefly upon ii(h, which were caught in the Sound in abun- dance, during the fummer, but that in the winter they retired to the north, where they fubfided on the fruits of the earth, with which they were fupplied for their labour, working in the plantations, or affifting the builders in fabricating their boats. -^ * , "* -,.. , .(,■■•■■■ ■: ■■■ .V': :•■«• tllC Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 6^ The intelligence thus obtained from this young Zealander appears to be authentic from many crrcumftancc$ ; but chiefly from obferv- ing, that the large vefiels that came from the s^rth to trade, fe^'eral of them having 90 or 100 perfons on board, had nerer any fifh to fell) but were laden with the various manu- factures of cloth, wood and ^reen ftones formed into implements of ufe, or confiftrng of raw materials ready prepared for fabrication. Their crews appeared to be of a fuperior daft to thofe who conftantly plied in the Sound, and were under proper difcipline; whereas the fifli- ing boats feemed to be the fole property of thb occupiers, no other perfon claiming any fupo- riority over them. - ** " - '•^■*->' *i •* ^ "I* On the 2 30, in the morning, the old Indiaki v/ho had harangued the Captains, when they approached the ftiore, came on board the Dif- covery, and prefenced the Captain with a com- plcat ftand of their arms, and fbme very fine fi(h, which were kindly received *, and, in re- turn, the Captain gave him a brafs pata-patow, made exadily in their manner, on which were engraven his Majefty's name and airms, the names of the fhips, the date of their departure from England, and the bufrncfs they were fcnc upon^ he gave him likewife a hatchet, a feW nails, a knife, and fome glafs ornaments, whrcfy he highly prized, though of fmall value. This fiay the wood-cucters loft a wood* ax, which * ■' one lii} I Hi - i t ) m ikfm i "4 n': .. (llllR I ' ¥'%•-■■■ ] I ¥ Ik ' ', '• 68 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. one of the natives dexcerouQy carried off*, with- out being difcovered. In the evening they brought a man bounds whom they ofifered to lell i but their offer being rejeded, they carried him back, and in the night, a moH: horrid yelling was heard in the woods, which excited the curiofity o£ the gentlemen on board, to examine into the caufe. The cutter was or- dered to be manned, a party of marines well armed to be put on board, and the Captains, with proper attendants, direded their courfe to the weft fide of the bay, where they faw fo- veral fires jull lighted, and where they hoped ta have furprized the natives, before they had put their poor captive to death, whom they had juft before configned to flavery ; bur, in this hope they were difappointed. The fava- ges in an inftant difappeared, and left no trace behind them of any Daughter having been com- mitted. About four in the morning, the tents were ilruck, and orders delivered out for failing. Next day, Feb. 24th, the Indians flocked in great numbers about the (hip, bringing with them a plentiful fupply of fi(h, and whatever elfe they thought marketable among the failors. T hough the natives appeared friendly during our (lay, it was judged proper to keep the time of our departure fecret till all things were on board, and we were in readinefs to (ail. This precau- tion Capt. Cook thought the more nece(rary, from i 'f I M^i '■■ m *i Capt. COOK*s Voyage^ 69 from what he had juft heard of the treachery of the ravages. By not allowing them to concert any new plot, he effe^lually fecurcd our forage- ing parties from the danger of a fnrprize, and by thus fuddenly giving orders to fail he prevent- ed our own men from rambling after the wo- men when their bufinefs was done, which they never failed to do whenever it was in their pow- er. The foraging parties here meant are thole who were fent to the coves, at the diftance, per* haps, of fix or feven leagues from the (hips, to cut grafs for the live ftock, and to gather herbs to boil with the portable foup for the men} and thofe alfo who were (lationed in the woods to get fpruce to brew into beer for their prefer- vation from the fcurvy, againft which that li- <|uor, as has already been obferved, was found a mod powerful antidote. Of grals and herbs an immenfe quantity was brought on board, and of fpruce as much as ferved the crews for drink near thirty days, during which time no grog was delivered out. The parties ordered upon thefe fcrviccs went always well armed and guarded by marines, though Capt, Cook him felf entertained very high notions of the honour as well as bra* very of the New Zeaianders. ^ "• ' ' On the 25th, previous to the (hips failing, the crews of both (hips were ordered upon deck, as ufual, to anfwer to their names, when one was miffing, who, upon enquiry, was fpund ill a bed. This was our adventurer, who pre- tended ■'^^ r ^i'U i-" !■; I ^1 i -1 I'M! ''ijl--' ' ■ 70 Capt. COOK'S VoYAo^i tended nck.ner$ in order to facilitate his efcapei. for this purpofe, as ibon as he had palTed the furgeon*$ examination, and the coaft was clear» he drefled himftlf io the habic of a New Zea- lander ; and being uttowed aU over, to fay the truth, thf copy was not eafily to be didin* guiihed from th^ original. Ghowannahe, who was in the fecret» had alTembled her friends to-< gecher, and fent them on baard in order to iti** creafe the crood, which upon fuch occafions^ vrhen th^ iftips are ready to fail, are gei^erally pretty fiurriefOiis^ Among this party he feize4. ^ favoucaible opportunity to mix, and haftening to their canoe, when the decks were ordered to be clearedt they were not long in paddling to (hore. The pkafure which Ghowannahe cxprefled, on ieeing the Ihip fet fail without him* may more eaHly be conceived than cxpreiTed i but her joy was of ihort continuance. It was about (even in the morning, when the ihips cleared the bay, and about eleven, when they entered the mouth of Cook's Screights, where they csSt anchor *, and Capt. Clarke, and Mr. Burney, his Hrfl Lieutenant, went on board the Refolution, to dine with Capt. Cook. Here the friends of the two Zealander youths, whom Omai had purchafed, came to take their la(t leave of them, and exprcfled, very affcdingly, llieir grief at parting, though the boys were as yet in pretty good fpirits. Some prefents were .41 .\x- '1 ; ^ made '' m'k :■''' Capt. COOK'S VoYACE. 71 made by Omai to the parents, and chey de- parted^ fecmingly with great reluftance, -j ,- ^4 ; In the afternoon, our adventurer*s mefs-mate went down to enquire after his health, and wat not a little furprized when no anfwer was niade*; He at firH thought he might have retired 1 but pa fearching every where below to no efief^t fae, g^iw . the alarm thrpughout the fhip^ when ic was difcovered, that he had ebp^d* bag and baggage^ and that the cheft hp had left in hh. birth w^s empty, A nicflrenger; was inftantJy dlTpatched on bpard the Refolution* to know how to proceed v and, when the me0agc was, delivered, the Captains and ofHcers were joyous over their bottle. At fir{t ic only furnilhed a fubjed for harmlefs pleaf^ntry; but it came. to be lerioufly debated, at laft, whether the man fhould be fent for back, or totally deferted^ Some were in doubt, whether an accident might npt have happened to him, fuch as l;iad happen- ed to the corporal of marines, formerly mentioned* but that doubt was foon cleared up, when it. was known, that his efkOis were milling as well as the man. Mod of the ofiicers prcfent were for leaving him to follow his own humour v but Capt. Cook thinking it would be a bad prece* - dent and an encouregement to other enamoratoes, when they came to the happier climates, to fol- low his example, was for fending an armed force, and bringing the man back at all ha- zards. Of this opinion was his own Captain^ ' . ■ with ■■^i I T "5 '1 '* li; t f \ 'i ') '■ V:' 7« Capt. COOK'S VoYA6E4 with whom he was a favourite, who gave orders for the cutter to be properly manned, a feyeant^s guard of marines to be put on board, and his mefs-mate as a guide to dired them to the place where he was to be found. Thefe orders were inftantly carried into execution. It was mid- night before the cutter could reach the landmg^^ place, and near two in the morning before the marines could, find the fpot where the lovers ufed to meet. They furprizcd him rrf a pro- found fleep, i^hen he was dreaming of nothing but kingdoms and diadems ; of living with his Ghowannahe in royal ftatc;' of being father of a numerous progeny of princes to govern the kingdomsEa- keiriommauwe andT'A vi-Poenam- moo ; and of being the firft founder of a great empire ! But what a fudden tranfition ! to be waked from this vifionary fcene of royal gran- deur, and to find himlelf a poor prifoner, to be dragged to punifiiment for, as h*; thought, a well-laid plan to arrive at monarchy ; and what was worfe, his final reparation from his faithful Ghowannahe, was a talk he had dill to undergo. Their parting was tender, and for a Britifh fail- or and Savage Zealander was not unafFeding, The fcene, however, was fhort. The marines paid no regard to the copious tears, the cries, and lamentations of the poor deferred girl, nor did they think it fafe to tarry in a place fo de- folate, where lamentations in the n'lght were not unufual to bring numbers together, for the purpofe narines Capt. COOK'S Voyage; 73 purpofes of (laughter. He was hurried to the fhore, followed by Ghowannahe, who could hardly be torn from him, when ready to em- bark. Love, like this, is only to be found in the regions of romance, in thofe enlightened countries, where the boailed reBnements of fentiment have circumfcribed the purity of af- fedion and narrowed it away to mere conjugal fidelity. He was fcarce on board the cutter, when he recollected that he had left his bag* gage behind ; all that he had provided for lay«, ing the foundation of his future grandeur. Ic vas therefore necelTary, that he fhould return with the marines to the magazine where all his (lores were depofited, which were not a few* Be(ides his working implements, he had a poc- ket coiipafs, of which he had thought on fome future occafion to make the proper ule. He had alfo a fowling piece, which had been fecretly conveyed away by Ghowannahe, as foon as the plan of empire was formed between thefe two 'Unfortunate lovers. It would be tedious to recount the numerous articles that he had provided. Let it fufHce, that the marines and himfelf were pretty heavily laden in bringing them on board the cutter. „, ,, n It was noon, the next day, before he arrived at the (hips, and the Captains began to be in fome fear for the party of marines, who were fent to bring him back. Before he came in fight, it had been concerted to try him for at ■i" I delisrtet i m t. ! *>■ i , c < >l lf*t:.: ■; 1 1 i ^i A ;4 CapT. COOK'S VoYAGEk deferterv and inftead of being received in his owhlhip, he wais ordered on board the Refolu- tion, where he underwent a long examination, and where hfe made a full confeflion of all kis views, and of the pains he had taken to bring them to perfedlion. ;?;j » t % ,:iw .;'\,r5 ...».! He f^id, the firft idea of defertton ftruck him whenj in the excurfibh round the bay, in which he attended in the fuite of Capt. Clarke, he was chairmed with the beauty 6f the country^ and the fertility of the foil 5 that feeing the gardens tliat had been planted on Long Idand, it Mdtuara, and at fundry other places, in K>' flourifliihg a condition-, ahd that there were European (hecp and hogs, and goats, and fowls, fufficient to dock a large plantation, if colleded tdgerher from the different places where they had been turtted loofe, it came into his head, that if he could meet wiiih a girl thtt was to his liking, he cdiild be happy in ihtfoducingthe arts of Etiropean cultike ihto fo fihe a couhtry, and in laVing the ^foundatioh of civil govern- ment ^moHg its tnhabicanrs. This idea im- ^rdv<*d uptfn him hourly, and when he happened to meiet with the girl bdfore mentioned, who had feen him in his tour, and who had followed him to the tents •, and had learnt from herfelf that love had brought her there, it InBamed his defire beyond all boundis. And moreover find- ing her in treaties to meet the wifhes of his heart, he no longer hedcated, but became 'firmly re- i^viiiai^ij ^ . .|- - . iblved» ■i.% Capt. cook's Vovaoe; 75 folvcd, at all events, to yield to the force of inclination. He bad revolved in his mind, he faid^ the hazard and the reward } and had con- certed with his Ghowannahe the plan for his cfcapc. • ■ r* When Capt. Cook heard his flory, his re- feotment was converted into laughter at the wild extravagance of his romantic plan, and inftead of trying him for defertion, ordered him on board his own fhip, to be puniQied as Capt. Clarke fhould think proper, who lent him to the gun, to receive twelve laHies; and thus terminated all his hopes of being a mighty emperor. The didrefs of Ghowannahe is fcarce to be conceived. She was left a woeful fpeftacle, to lament her fate. She expreffed her grief> by the punftures (he made in her face» arms, and where- ever defpair prompted her todiredt the bloody in- ilrumpnc. It is wifhed, for her fake, that thofe fa- vage people^whofe bodies are expofed to the feve- rities of tlie feafons, are not fo fufceptible of pain as thofe of a Hner texture ; otherwife her per- fonal feelings mud have been exquifite. inde- pendent of thofe of her mind. But to take leave of her, now, for ever. On the 27th, both (hips came to fail, and on the 28th, cleared the land. ^ jv^rt-^;^ .-^^ nr-,. On the ift of March, aftorm came on, but as the wind was fair, we got down the top gal- Jant-yards, clofe-reefed the top-fails, and pur-, ' 1 f-'ti I fued n \i "^ 1 I 1 'I ^K <) s.:.. , n lit! ,; ,f i !»■. it !» i! K ■ I I -i f I ;.; ffl i.^. 1 ' ! 11; •• ■ 1 :; L 76 Capt. Cook's Voyage. fucd our courfe E. by N. About four in the afternoon it cleared up, we fpokc with the Re- folution, and all well, except the two New Zealanders, who, notwithftanding their con- ilant refidence on the margin of the main ocean, and their employment of fifhing near the (bores from their infancy, yet, when they came to leave the land, and to fee nothing buc foaming billows all round them, their hearts failed them }. they now began to pine and re- filled CO cat. '■ .• ^'•■■•AW¥i«:> •• . ■ - ■';> i» '•■'^ '-'''" On the 3d, the wind continuing fair, and the breeze moderate, Capt. Clarke, with Mr, Burney, went on board the Refolution, to dine with Capt. Cook. When the New Zealanders were told there was a boat come on board, whatever their apprehenfions then were, it was not eafy to difcover i but they ran and hid themfelves, and feemed to be in a great pa- nic. It did not appear that their fear took its rife from the thoughts of being carried back, becaufe when the gentlemen were coming away* they wanted to come with them. It (hould ra- ther fecm, therefore, that they were apprehen- five of fome defign upon their lives, as in their country a confultation among the chiefs always precedes'a determined murder. This was in part confirmed by their behaviour afterward?. Nothing remarkable till —- ^ The 7th, when a great fwell from the fouth* wjird gave notice of an approaching ilorm. AU ^ batroflcs, CAi>t. COOK'S VoYAof. 77 b^roffcs, men of war birds, flying fifh, dol- phins aod (harks had played about the (hips for feveral days, s^nd fome of our gentlemen had (hoc albati:o(res that mi^afured eleven feet from tip to tip, and this day a large (hark was caught, molt of which was eaten by the (hip's company > tho' they had not yet loft the reli(h of the New Zealand fi(h, nor were they quite exhauft^d, moft of the Tailors having purchafed quantities to fait, which were efteemed excellent, i t3;v h On the 8th the ftorm that was forefeen came on, accompanied with thunder, lightening and rain. The fea rofe mountain's high, and the wind increafed to fuch a degree, as made it ne« celTary to take in almoft all our fails with the utmoft expedition i and to feud it under double reefed top-fails. We ftill kept our courfe, (leer* ing N. £. by £. The gale continued all night and part of next day, when about four in the afternoon the wind abated, and fine weather fucceeded till The iith, when it began to blow very hard in the morning, and before we could hand the top-gallant fails, it carried away the main top- gallant yard i about two in the afternoon it be- came Bne, but attended with a great fwell from the fouthward. -» - «» '^i' * On the 1 4th a Bne breeze, and ftill in the la- titude of 39. We were now going bn(kly on at the rate of 7 and 8 knots an hour, when all on a fuddcn the wind (hifted to the fouth-eaft« 1 3 On ^m i i m' m 1 1 I iij CaPT. COOK'S VoYAQSlk On the 1 5th it blew a hurricane, attended with rain and a high fea, which breaking over our bows, cleared the decks of tverything that was not Brmly fecufcd. It carried aWay our main top-gallant yard in the flings, and Q)lit our fore>top-maft ftay^fail in a thoufand'ihii^e^^. At night we fhifted our courte, and ftood N by E 4 E. There were fomc on board wh<>difap- proved of the courfe we ftcered from the begin- ning, foFi^feeing, that by going fo fad .to the northward, we (hould fall too fuddenly into the trade' winds, efpecially if we (hould be met by an eafterly wind before we approached the Tropic. Among the feamen on board a king's (hip, there are always fome expert navigators, whofe judg« ment, ripened by experience, is much to 1be de-* pended upon $ but the misfortune is* that the(e men are never confulted, nor do they even dare fo much as to whifper their opinion to their fu« perior officer. Like gamefters Aanding by* they can fee the errors of the game, but muft not point them out till the game is over. This was the real cafe on board the Difcovery, ibme of whofe people did not fcruple to foreeel what would happen the moment we left the 39th de* gree of fouthern latitude, while we were yet only in the 190th degree of eaftern iongitude. They did not fcruple to fay among themfelves, that inHead of 22 degrees fliort of the longi- tude of Otaheite, (which lies in e la^ £. nearly) before we altered our latitude to the north, 'j-'-^ , . 4. I we U. i Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 79 we ought to have ilretched at lealt i2 degrees farther caftward, being then certain, that how far foever we might be to the eaftward of our intended port, when we came to crofs the Tro- pic we Ihould be fure of a fair wind to carry us to it. - -- ri- — - • On thje 1 8th having continued our courfe N N £ for the lad 24 hours, we found our- felves inlat. 33 deg. 8 min. by obfervation, and in long. 200 £. that is, more than 1 2 degrees to the wrrilward of Otaheitc. Here we faw fea- weed iii abundance, and by a large tree floating by us., we judged we could not be far from land ; « It found none. The tree appeared to be about c k it long, and of a confiderable girt, and by Its f refhnei» feemed not to have been long in the water. Clear weather till- io v^; f?£. , The 2 2d, when the heavieft' rain began to pour down that any man on board had ever experienced. It fell in Iheets, and as the wind increafed, the men in handing the fails, were in the utmoft danger of being wafhed ofi^ the yards. It continued for fix hours incefTantly. It came, however, moft feafonably for the Re- folution, wh.=rc the number of live ftock, horfes, cows, goats and fheep had exhauQed a Large proportion of their freJh water, and we were yet at a great diftance from our defined port. Here the wind began to veer to the E, as we ap- proached the Tropic. This was appiehended by many, who finding our longitude not to in- I 4 creafc t.l w < •' .f I m Ui irm m^ ^ t1 : ? ^'i -A I • :■ So Capt. COOK'S VoyAGE: creafc in proportion as our latitude decreafed» began to fufpedb that we fhould not be able to make Otaheite this run. ,y On the 24th, our latitude was decreafed, to 24deg. 24min. and our longitude only in- creafed one fingle degree. . The wind E. by S. and our courfe ftill N by E, we confequently made but little way. But the weather conti- nuing fair, Capt. Clarke, and Mr. Burney went on board the Refolution, to dine with Capt. Cook, and when they returned, brought the forrowful news of the alarming fituation of the Refolution, for want of provifions and water for the live (lock ; that they were obliged to kill a great part of their fheep, hogs and goats for the ufe of the crew ; not having a fufficient quantity of water to keep them alive ; that the horfes and cows were mere fkeletons : being re> duced to the fcanty portion of four pounds of hay, and fix quarts of water for 24 hours *, and the men put to the allowance of 2 quarts of water, for the fame fpace of time : that the "wind (till continuing foul, all thoughts of reach- ing Otaheite were laid afide, and that the ifles of Amfterdam and Rotterdam were now our only refource. Nothing remarkable till The 1 9th, when, in the latitude of 26 deg. fouth, we faw a large whale, at a little diftance i a fight feldom feen in fo low a latitude in the northern hemifphere. This day our beer, which having been periodically brewed from the fpruce brought Capt. COOK'S Voyage. St brought from New Zealand, had lafted us till the prefent day, was all exhaufted, and grog feryed out in its ftead. Hitherto not a man was ill on board the Difcovery, nor any other alteration made in their allowance. It was the number of live dock on board the Refolution, that occaGoned the diftrefs for water, from which the Difcovery was in a manner exempt, having few or none on board, more than were necef- fary for the fhip*s ufe. 1-' . * - On the 23d, the weather continuing, we be* gan to be accompanied by our tropical compa<^ nions, many of which furrounded the (hip, and one man of war bird had the audacity to fettle on mad-head. On the 27th, the weather, which for two or three days had been fqually, attended with thunder and lightning, increafed to a ftorm, fo that it became neceiTary to hand our fails, one after another, till our double reefed top -fails were all that were abroad. We now faw fea-weed in abundance, and fome land fowl began to make their appearance, which were indications of land at no great didance. On the 28th, the tempeftuous weather dill continuing, we altered our courfe to the north. The wind for the lad 24 hours, blowing modly from the S E. We, this day, croflcd the fouchern tropic ; when the weather cleared up, and we were faluted with a Bne breeze, and at> tended by numerous dioals of flying fidi, bo- nitosi 41 ;! ' p Vil m. I ■«: •i '■■, I" 'lit i-Ki 1 IV lis- 1 ^5 5 ■ v: ■;: P i! 1. r l^i :'■■! !i" 'i' k: <' ^Ij -1" !* « r VI I- ( 82 Capt. COOK'S Voyaoe; nitos, dolphins, iharks; and whole flocks of tro|^ical fea-fowl, which abound near the iflands in the low latitudes, biit are f^ldoix) feci) in the deep Pacific fca.^''^ '''"''' ""*'*''' *^^n...m.. On the 29th, about ten in the morning, the iky being clear, and the weather moderate, the man at the maft-head, called out Land, bear- ing N E. diftant about 7 or 8 leagues. We made the fignal, which was foon anfwered by the Refolution. About 12, the weather began to alter, and to blow in gufts from the land; At four in the afternoon tacked (hip, and itood in for the land. Saw no fign of inhabitants^ while day-light remained, but in the night ob« ferved feyeral iires. On the 30ch, faw feveral Canoes approaching the ihips, and many inhabitants on the beach, feemingly in arms to oppofe our landing. A- bout ten, the boats were hoifled out and man- ned, in order to reconnoitre the (hore, and found for anchorage, who, to our great difap- pointment, returned without having fucceeded. Two of the canoes came within call, having three- perfons in each canoe ; but none of them could be prevailed upon to come on board. Our Captain (hewed many articles of European manufadlure to excite their curiofiry, but they feemed to fet little value on any thing except the new Zealand cloth -, of which he threw a piece overboard, and they came and dived for it i but they had no fgoner recovered it, than they Capt. COOK.s VoYAGfiv 83 they paddled oflF as faft as they could, without offering ftoy thkig Ui return. In the n)ean tiqa^ ihf boats were lurr^ptn^ded by •naultitudes from ihe Gm^i vi^bo canie, iooie in canoes, and fome IWiniiimng& they even ftttcmpHied to board the i)o«tsj7y force* ftnd f^cral fadened round them with their teeth. Thus circuonAancied. and in danger X)f being funk,; jthey chofc mh'*' *^^ ««<• turn to the fliips, thaa hazard vtheir^oim latety s pr, to fecure them^slircs, deprive miy of the innocent people <}f life; an injuiifklon chat was frei^uently repeated by Capt. Cook, during the voyage, and which ^iiiras the more oeccflary, as the common faikihi were very apt to forget, that the life of an Indian was of any account* About noon, the Rdblution, being in much diftrefs for water, though ibmewhat relieved by the rains wbich'ibad fallen. Captain Cook ordered the cutter to be manned, and went in it himfelf, to talk with the natives, and to exa- mine the coaft ; but after a frultlefs fearch, was forced to return, the furf being fuch as rendered the watering of the (hips from the ihore an abfolute impoflibility. While he lay too, he had fome friendly converfation with the natives, and fome prefents palTed between them ; but nothing that anfwered the purpofes of fupply- ing the (hips, or refrefliing the crews. • This idand, which we fuppofed to be in length, from S S W. to N N E. about eight leagues* and in breadth about four leagues, made a moft dciightlul 115 il^ 9i{ ;>i ^i, tH. « ■Mi m !?».;{■ H tlSift ^■ \A- 84. Ca^t. COOK'S Voyage; delightful appearance, and,^ Cape. Cook wa^ made to underftand, abounded in every thing of which the (hips were in want ; it may therefore caftly be conceived, with what reluctance we kft it. Some peculiarities were obferved by thofe who attended Capt. Cook, particularly in the drefs both of the men and women, who wore a kind of fandals, made of bark, upon their feet ; and on their 4eads caps, probably c»f their own manufa&ur^, richly ornameoted, and encircled with party-coloured plumage* They were rather above the middle ftature, weiI-made,tattowed,and m&e thofe of the friendly ifies, were without cloathes, except a kind of apron which encircled their wades, reaching Tittle more than half way down their thighs. Both men and women were armed with fpears thirteen or fourteen feet long; and the men had malTy clubs be(ides, about three feet long, of a hard wood and very heavy. Armed with thefe weapons, 5 or 600 people were drawn up upon the beach, who eagerly gazed at the ihips, having probably never feen an European vefTcI before. Though this, with the iflandi adjoining, were difcovered in Capt. Cook's former voyage, atthediftance of feven or eight leagues, and being firft feen by Mr. Harvey, firil mace of the Endeavour, was from hir named Harvey's ides, and are laid down in lat. 1 9" 1 8' S. and long 1 5 8' 54.' W. from Green- WlCb» ' ••'»«"!« .fiVL-; i\ 'uirfi iU-iJ\^K M .3i»:iV tut Wi»* k.j.. ...J On Capt. COOK'S Voyage. S$ On the 31(1, before ten in the morning, the man at the maft-head called out land ahead^ diftance feven or eight leagues. Here 1 2 ca- noes were feen approaching the (hips at once, waving green branches, which we underftood were enfigns of peace ; thefe we anfwered, and one, who appeared to be a chief, came on board the Difcovery, with a bough in his hand, and another was feen to afcend the (ide of the Re- iblution. After the ufual ceremonies, and fome prefents of little value had palTcrd, while Capt. Clarke was endeavouring to make his wants known to the Indian,-— Omai came on board by Capt. Cook's dire^ion, who now could make himfelf perfectly underftood. The chief ad- dreiTed him in an elaborate fpeech, which, tho* Omai pretended to interpret, very little of it could be underftood by any one elfe. He then was directed by Omai to the Captain, to whom he prefcnted his green bough, at the fa.ie time inviting him alhore, and promifing to furnilh him with whatever refre(hments the ifland pro- duced. This invitation was accepted, the boats were ordered out, and the Captain, with Omai and fuitable attendants, were inftantly landed. It was no fooner known that peace was eftabliOied, than fwarms oi canoes were feen paddling to the (hip, laden with cocoa-nuts, yams, bread-fruit, and plaintains, which they exchanged with the failors for bits of broken' glafs, beads, or any baubles that were offered them. a t'; »n. m •1 , I' < nut. »l l<,'. *^ li til: ::^i- K i li'* 111 ,ji ■ J , v4 ''.'■' Capt. C O O K'» Voyage. them. I^re the natives appeared In aft oni(h« ment witth every thing they faw, and more par« ticularly at the carpenters who were at work, upon the boats, with whole tools they were no lefs captivated than thofe of the nimble finger'd inhabitants of the other ides •, nor were they lefs iucceisful in carrying fome of them oiF,. not- withftanding the ftritkfl eye was kept over them by thofe whofe bulinefs ic was to watch tliem. ^„ ii «. ' H- About two in the afternoon, the Captain re- turned with the chief to dinner, bringing wicti him a fmall hog, with a whole load of the fruits of the iQand, which were chiefly diftrU buted among the (hip's company. On this ifland all kinds of tropical fruits were found in plenty, and even fiih were furnilhed in abundance, and thofe of the moft delicious kindsi but the article moft: wanted^ namely water, was the fcarceft. Scurvy grafs and celery were every where to be gathered, and great quan- tities were brought on bo^rd ; and no people upon earth could ftiew greater civility to ftrangers than the natives of this happy ifland, who feemed mofl delighted, when they could beft gratify the wifhes of their guefts. They even took pleafure in diverting them, and made mock Bghts among themfelves to fhew their dexterity in the ufe of arms. While they were thus employed, one of our gentlemen fired a great gun, which in an inft:ant cleared the fhip , . of . ^«* were no Capt. cook's Voyage. 87 of the poor afifrighced warriors ; for which, as he well dcfcrvcd, he afterwards received a feverc reprimand. Parties from both (hips having been fent out to fearch the iOand for water, and being returned without being able to meet with any within wa- tering didance, as foon as dinner was over, orders were given to make fail. About four we left the ifland, ftcerine N. by W. with a fine breeze. On the I ft. of April, being in lat. 200 22'» and long. 202** 26' eaft of Greenwich, we con- tinued our courfe to the S W. and On the 3d. in the morning, the man at the mad called out IjAnd, which was foon anfwer- ed by the Refolution ; and about three in the afternoon fell in with a fmall ifland, but tho' wa« ter was here equally unattainable as in the other iflands of this group, the night was fpent in Handing on and off*, on the following occalion ; One of the chiefi. who came on board in the evening gave Omai to underftand, that three of his countrymen were in that iQand, and that if he chofe to fee them, he would be his guide. Omai's curioficy was raifed to know how they came there. On their meeting, they were all equally furprifed, and equally impa- tient 5 they to hear Omai's adventures, and Omai to know theirs. Omai took them on board, and entertain'd them with a pleafing rdattoh of all that had happened to him ; an^ 1 n> Ml * 1 . \ i m If a'. J, !•*•*■ 88 CAPr. COOK'S VoyAGB. k' I > they in return acquainted Omai with what had befallen them. Their (lory was truly pityable, they faid, that of near 50 Uliceaiis, they were the only furvivors; that about twelve years ago, they with their families and friends going from Ulitea to fettle at Otaheite, were overtaken in a dreadful tempeft, by which they were driven into the main ocean i that the dorm continuing to increafe, and the fea to run mountains high, the women and children were wa(hed over board, and peri(hed before they experienced any further diftrefs ; that after three days, when the ftorm abated, thofe who remained, found them- felves in an unknown ocean with little more provifions than was fufficient to ferve them another day ; that having no pilot to direct their courfe, they continued to go before the wind day after day, till famine had reduced their number to lels than twenty ; that thofe who furvived, had nothing but the fea* weed which they found floating in the fea, and the wa- ter which they faved when it rained to keep them alive *, that, ten days having elapfed, and no land in proipedl, defpair took place of hope, and feveral unable to fupport the pangs of hunger, jumped over board in their phrenzy and perilhed by an ealier death i the groans and lamentations of the dying, and the terrible ago- nies with which fome were aflfected before death came to their relief, exceeded all defcrip- tioQ. In this melancholy fituation they had exlited CaPT. cook's VOYAOfi. 89 exifted for thirteen days, and how much longer they could have no recolledbion, for they were taken up infenfible of pain, and hardly to be diftinguilhed from the emaciated bodies of the dead among whom they were found, feemingly without life or motion, till by the friendly care of their deliverers, they were re- ftored. When they recovered, they faid, it was like waking from a dream : they knew not where they were, nor how they cane upon land } but being told that they were taken up at fea, and in what condition, as their fcnfes gradually returned, they by degrees recoliedtea all the circumftances already related ; they added, that ever fince they were brought to li'"^^ they had remained with their deliverers, ^nd were now quite reconciled to their condition, and happy in the fituation in which the Etoa or good fpirit had placed them. Omai, after he?r. ing their relation, with which he was apparently much afFeded, told them, they might now take the opportunity of returning home with him ; that he would intercede for them, and that he was fure if they chofe it, the chiefs oi the Ex- pedition would grant his requeft. They thanked Omai for his kindnefs j nor had they any reafon to fuppofe, that fuch an offer would ever be made them as^ain : but ihey were now determined to end their days with the people who had reftored them to fecond life,and as their deareft relations and friends were of the number K of f I ' ; 't. ii ; ' " 'Jill 'li'Mfv 1 M ^ V (•■ ' 5(0' Capt. cook's VoYAdE. of thdfe who perldied, the return to their own Country would only renew their gt-iefj dlid in- ftead of affording them pleafure, wOuM incTeafe their rtielanch^oly. - ^->^i bi;iiiitj\nlllib sd f;- ' Capt. Cook being told the manner in whicn Omai was engaged, ahd that he was much de- lighted with the cbrtipany of his countrymen, ordered the Ihips tO lie too that he might not be interrupted -, and Mr. fiurney, Mr. Law the furgeon, and fcV6ral mOre of us went Only with our fide arms about us to divert ourfelves on Ihore, and to take a view of the coitntfy. Wc had not proceeded riiany miles before ive were furrounded by a multitude of ttfittfcd Inhabi- tants, who without Ceremony began to Examine us, as we thought a little too roughly. We ut fitft fuppofcd it matter of curidfity that had occafioned this fatniliartty *, but we foon foutid that, like the gentlemen of the road in our own country, tho' they did not offer any violence to our perfons, they were determined to make free with the contents of our pockets ; they accord- ingly ftrjpt us of every^ thinp but our cloaths, and then they all difperfed, leaving us to purfue our journey ; but Mr. Burney having loll his note-book, which was of greater confequencfc to him than all we had loft, befides, determined to find the friendly chief, and to apply to him for redrefs. This, to us who were ftrangers, was matter of no Imall difficulty ; thol?^ of whor:: wc enquired, pretended not to undcrliand our r .1 r.:. CAPr. CO O K' s Voyage. -^f t>ur meaning, and probably did not, as none but wonwn and children were now to be fcen j we therefore thought it the fhorteft way to return to the Ihip, and get Omai and his three friends to aflift us in this enquiry. In this we Tucceedcd, and it is hardly to be conceived, how fpeedily our loffcs were rcftored, not an article being omitted, no, not fo much as an ircp cork- fcre'v, which to them was a valuable acqui- iition. On the 4th in the morning we fct fail ; and on the 6th came in fight of another idand. ' On the 7th tacked and ftood in for land. For the laft 24 hours the ftorms of thunder, light- firng, and rain, were almoft inceifant, infomuch, that it was found neceffary to cover the fcuttles ot the magazine to fecure the powder. The people in both (hips were now employed in catching water, which though none of the beft, btcaufe of its tarry tafte, was yet richly priz'd, and he who could fave but a gallon a day when the rains began, thought his labour amply re- warded J but this proving the rainy feafon, we in a few days filled all our empty cafks, and every man had liberty to ule what he plcafed. Before thefe heavy rains fell and furniftied them with a fupply, the people on board the Refo- lution had been greatly diftrtflfed for water, as we have already remarked -, but now ir was determined to diredt our courfe to Anoiijocoa or Rotterdam Ifland, and accordingly thac K 2 illand \% 'ti 4 ' > j!^r II !V> $\ r u\ y ■( * '•,, ISA ! r'l i\ : 92 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. idand was appointed our place of rendezvous in caie of reparation. The weather continued va- riable, and tho* plenty of rain fell almoft every day, yet it was found advifeable to make uie of the machine on board the Hefolution, and to ufe water obtained by diftillation for every pur. pofe for which it was fit. It was apt to difcolour the meat that was boiled with it, and to tindture every thing with a difagreeable blacknefs : but it was rather preferred to rain water becaufe of the tarry tade communicated by the latter. Nothing remarkable till ^ . ... , ,t>:^ -.tU .r The 1 8th, when at day> break, we difcovered land bearing S W. by W. diftance about fix or feven leagues ; but, being then under double reef top-falls and a hard gale, it was thought dangerous to approach it. In the evening we hove too, and fo continued during the night. In the morning the boats were ordered out, and about noon returned, having found good an- chorage in 12 and 15 fathom water, fine fandy bottom near the (bore. The boats came back laden with the fruits of the iOand, which they made free with tho' they faw no inhabitants ; we had no fooner call anchor, than parties from both Ihips were fcnt out to reconnoitre the country. The weather now began to alter. The rainy feafcn, which generally continues from fix to eight weeks in this climate, was as we hoped, nearly expired when we tell in with this ddightful idand, which tho* it was found dedi. tutc Capt. COOK'S Voyage, g^ tute of inhabitants, was notwithllanding full of fruit-trees of all the various forts that are in- digenous to the tropical climates. In our ram* bles throughout we found plenty of fcurvy* grafs and other wholefome efculents, of which the failors laid in a good (lore ; but it was un- fortunate, that after the ilrideft fearch no water could be difcovered. It muft doubtlefs fur- prife the greateft part of our readers, and per> haps ftagger their belief when they are told of fo many idands abounding with inhabitants, who fubfift with little or no water. Yet true it is, that few or none of the little low iflands between the tropics have any water on the furface of the ground, except perhaps in a la- goon, the water of which is generally brackifh nor is it eafy to find water by digging. The fad is, the fruits of the earth are their chief food, and the milk of the cocoa nut ferves them for drink. They want no water to boil any part of their food, for they knew not the art of boiling till the Europeans taught them, nor had they a veflfel fitted for the purpofe : neither have they any occafion for wafhing their cloaths, the materials of which they are made being of the paper kind, will not bear wafhing. Salt water therefore anfwers their purpofe with very little frefh, and adds a relilh to their fifh, in which, when it is broiled, they dip almofl every mouthful they eat. This in a great mca- fure accounts for their fubPifting without water, ' ' "' *" "'^^ ''■ K J ' '' ' tho» :k r-i ■ I" 1 . m ■ i^k .m [\U f I f ; «',i i-^ti 94 Capt; cook's Voyage; '- tho* in the climate of England it would not bs eafy to fubfift without it a fingle week. And now having fupplted the fhips with the produce of this idand, and not being abld to fiivd ai^«- chorage near any of thofe adjoining, we kt fail On the 17th, fteeringN W. tho* W.S.4W* feemed to be our courie for Rottcrdanib The iilands we had jud left were the Palmer(lo» IQes, in lat. i8deg. 11 min. S. and long. 16^ deg, 14 min. W. " * *^ '^' ^-n •. On the 20th, we varied our courfe, fleering NW. On the 2id, clear weather, but a great fwcll from the fouth, a fure prefage of an approach- ing dorm. This day we altered our courfe to S. S. W. with the wind variable, ^j^,.^ 3, ^, ^^..^ On the 25th, the expefled florm came on, which increafed to fuch an alarming height h before night, attended with thunder, light- ning, and rain, with a tremendous fea, that with all our fails handed, our top-gallant yardsi fb'uck, we were obliged to lie too under bare poles till morning appeared, ri rji' On the 26th, the dorm being fomewnat abated, J *: Rcfolution of which we had loft fight, bore down to us, and at five in the af- ternoon we made iail undpr clofe reefed top- fails. About eleven at night we narrowly ef- caped running on (hore on Savage Idand, the man at the maft-head calling out Land, when, dark as it was, we foon got fight of it clofe on ■lit "ili^V Capt. cook's Voyage.^ ^g on our Ice-bow, ftecring diredlly for it. We inftantly put about, and fired a gun as a fig- nal for the Refolution* (then to windward about half a mile) to do the fame. So nar- row an efcapc made a ftrong impreflion on the (hip's company, who, thoughtlefs as they are, could hot help lopking up to heaven with thankful hearts for fo fignal a delivercnce. As foon as it was light next morning, we faw this execrated iQand,( at the diftapc? of about four leagues. On the 29th, our carpenter's mate had the misfortune to fall down upon deck and break his leg. Happy that no other misfortunes had befallen us during a fcries of tempeftuous wea- ther, which few (hips would have been able to refill. About nine in the morning, the ftorm dill continuing, but the fky in part clear, the man at the mall-head called out Land, which was prefently known to be Anomocog, or Rotterdam, fo called by the Dutch who firft difcovcred it, bearing S W. diftance about four or five leagues. At ten faw two mountains, bearing S. S. W. diftance about nine or ten leagues, and foon after a great fmoak was feen to afcend from the lowermoft ifland, Thp weather (lill continuing fqually, we approached Anomocoa with great caution. About five in the afternoon, the fignnl was made from the Rcfolution to come too, which we obeyed, a;.J about fix caft anchor. . . .. , K 4 '" On M \l i ! I I m^ •If >M ! ^' On the 30th, we weighed again, and in the evening, worked into Anomocoa road* About fix we moored, and was foon after joined by the Refolucion. We had now been jufl fixty days in a pafiage, which in a dire£l courfe could not have exceeded ten> and had been ex- pofed to the fevereft trials, owing to fome fa- tality in purfuing a courfe which there was not a feaman on board that did not difapprove. It feemed to have no objed of difcovery in view, as we fell nearly 'nto the fame track, which our Commodore had formerly navigated, nor did we meet with a fingle iOand, which one or other of our late voyagers had not feen or vifited in their different routs. How it hap- pened is not ealy to be accounted for, as it was next to a miracle, that any creature on board the Refolution remained alive to reach our pre- fent harbour. Had not the copious rains that fell almoft inceflantly from the time we pafled the tropic till our arrival here, fupplied the daily confumptlon of water on board our (hips, not only the animals but the men mVift have pe- ri(hed. Happy, however, that we now found ourfelves in fafety on a friendly coaft. We forgot the dangers we had efcaped, and thought only of enjoying with double plcafure the fwcets ot thefe happy iOands, whofe fpontaneous pro* dudions perfume the air to a confidereble dift- ance with a fragrance inconceivably reviving ; and whofe plantations exhibit a richncfs ofprof- ped Capt. cook's Voyage. 97 pe6t as we approached them, owing to the beau- tiful intermixture of the various bloIToms, with the vivid green leaves of the trees, of which the mod animated defcription can communicate but a faint idea. Add to thefe, the tufted clumps that naturally adorn the little riHiig hills that appear every where delightfully interfperfed among the verdant lawns, and rich low vallics which furround them. Nothing in nature can be more pleafing to the eye, or more grateful to the fenfes. We were no fooner moored in the harbour, than we were furrounded with innumerable little boats, or canoes, mod curiouOy conftruded and ornamented ; the fides with a poliAi that fur- pafs*d the blacked ebony, and the decks inlaid with mother of pearl and torcoife-fhell, equal to the bed cabinets of European manufacture. In this kind of workmanlhip, thofe idanders feem to excel. Their weapons of war, their clubs, the handles of their working tools, the paddles of their boats, and even their fi(h-hooks are polilhed and inlaid with variegated (hells, by an inBnice accumulation of which their diores are margined, and among them our natura- lifts found fome of fupcrlative beauty. Thcfe boats held generally three perfons, and under their decks, which take up two thirds of their length, they brought the fruits of their planta- tions and the manufactures of their country, which confided, befidcs cloth of different fa- . .. biics. .■!?5l ; h' f H iil i' , ■ "J - I.' "ma ;i 'Mi i,B I .1 ,, i'V 98 Capt. COOK'S Voyage: brics, of a great variety of things ufeful^ and others ornamental. Of the firft fort were combs* fifli. hooks, lines, nets made after the Euro* pean fafhion, needles made of bx)ne, with thread of different finenefs, purfes, caiibafhes made of reeds fo clofely wrought as to be water-tight ; with a variety of other utenfils. Among the latter, were bracelets, breaft-plates ornamented with feathers of a vivid glow ; mafks, man- talets compofed of feathers, fo artfully and beautifully arranged, as even our Englilh ladies would not difdain to wear. Thefe were of im- mcnfe value in the Society Ifles, where Omai faid a fine red feather would purchafe a hog, and of thefe, and red feathers, O^ai laid in allore. ' •> >.^-/ ^ .i,d . .. ; .:.^h3^v.%m^) ■ The people of thefe iflands have already been fo well defcribed by Capt. Cook, and Mr, Porter, that What we have now to add, is rather to confirm their accounts than to advance any thing new. We found them of a friendly dif- pofition, generous, hofpitable, and ready to oblige. Some there were among them moft villainoufly given to thieving •, but that propen- fity did not appear to them fo much a vice in the light we are ape to confider it, as a craft fynonymous to cunnw^^ according to our ac- ceptation of the word. He who was dctedlcd and punifhed, was neither picied nor defpifed by his neighbours •, even the Arces, or grea^ men among them thought it no crime to praflicc tlaat it i . t ). ,1 , i } Wm Capt. cook's VoVage; 99 that craft upon out commanders whenever they foufid an opportunity ; and would only laugh when tb€y were detefled; juft as a cunning fel- low in England would Isugh when he had found an opportunity of out-wkting an honefter man than him(elf. As foon as the ufual ceremonies had pafled, and peace was eflabtidied, the commanders of both (hips gave orders that no perfon of what- ever rank on board, fliould purchafe any thing of the natives till the (hips were iupplied witli proviHons. This order was ilTued for two pur- pofes } one to regulate the prices, the other to oblige the natives to bring their provifions to market, when they found that nothing elfe was faleable ; and it produced the dcHred tStdi, The number of hogs and fruit that were brought, were greater than the daily confump- . tion \ though the ordinary ihip-allowance was entirely (topt, and the produce of the idands ' ferved out in its ftead. We even faked for fe- veral days, from four to (ix hogs a day. The civility of the chiefs was not confined to their leadinefs to fupply the (hips with pro- \ vifions. They complemented the commanding officers with the ufe of a magnificent houfe, conveniently fituated upon the beach during their (lay : and at the fame time prefcnted them with breaft-plates molt beautitully decorated ; with feathers, being the richeft offering they had to make. In return, the commanders were ' ■ -^"ti. , not f/ t' 1 'Jir H •t'% „ i'' -J' wM- wi ■;. * '4' ii -i ■;:-.■ 1^ i 1 100 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; not wanting in generofityy loading them with hatchets, knives, linen cloth, glafs, and beads ^ with which they thought themfelves amply re- paid. Tent& were now carried on fhore ^ the aftronomers oblervatory ere£^ed ; wooders and waterers appointed; and all the artificers on board employed in the reparations of the (hips ; not a few being wanting after a voyage of two months, through a tempeiluous fea, during which the elements of Hre, air, and water* might be faid to be in perpetual conflid. While thcfe things were about, the com- manders and chiefs were every day contriving to vary the pleafures of their refpedkive guefts, and to entertain them with new diverfions. They were mutually engaged on board and on (hore to furprife each other with novelty. On board, the chiefs were entertained with muHc, dan- cing, and feailing, after the European manner; and with what feemed much more pleafing to them, as they paid more attention to it, with the various operations of the artificers who were at work on their refpedlive employments. The facility with which the boat-builders performed their work particularly attra6ted their notice ; when they beheld the labour of a year with them, performed in a week by the fame number of hands on board, their a(loni(hment was be> yond conception ; nor were they lefs in amaze- ment to fee large timber cut through the middle and faw'd into plank, while they were . Capt. COOK'S VovACE. 101 were fpe^ators, which they had no means of effedbing in their ifland in many days. On (hore, the chiefs, in return, endeavoured to entertain the commanders ; they fealled them like tropical kings, with barbicued hogs, fowls, and with the moft delicious fruits; and, for wine, they offered them a liquor made before their faces, in a manner, not to be mentioned without difguft ; but as the chiefs had refufed to drink wine on board, our commanders, and thofe who attended them, needed no other apo- logy for refuHng to partake of this liquor with them. They likewife, after dinner, introduced their mufic, and dancers, who were chiefly women of the theatrical caft, and excelled in agility and varied attitudes, many of the belt performers in Europe ; a kind of pantomine fucceeded, in which fome prize-fighters difplayed their feats of arms ; and this part of the drama concluded with a humorous reprefeiitation of fome laughable flory, which produced among the chiefs, and their attendants, the mofl: im- moderate mirth. The fongfters came laft, the melody of whofe voices was heightened by a kind of accompanyment, not unufual in the earlied ages, among the politeft nations, as may be learnt from ancient paintings, where the fingers and dancers are reprefented with flat clams or fhells in their hands, fnapping them together, to harmonize their tunes, and regu- late their movements. Though this farcical exhibition .,•1 I II 'tea- i Si Nrf •■:'i;:ii. 102 Capt. cook's Voyaob; ^xbrbitton Was otherwife mispid )C0 uj. It was noc wholly without its ufe, in markmg .. tirni- 3ar'rty «f m«nners among mattk'md« at the dif- tsnce of ba4f the globe, and at a period, iHnen the arcs of civil life wwe in their infancy. Wlio 4c>nows, but t)hat the feeds »of the liberal ares, that have now been fown by European naviga- tors in thefe happy climes, may, a thoufand years hence, be ripened into maturity ^ and that the people, who are now but emerging from ignorance into fcience, may, when the jmc- jBory of tiaele voyages are forgotten, be founid in the -zenith of their in^rjovements by other adveiuurers;, who may of which, notice has been tiikta by former voyagers. There are two tttotrtitarris that occafiotially emit fire and fmokc ; but tht iowctt is the moft conftant. ^ On the 19th day of our refidente at Ano- mocoa, our wooders returned, almoft blinded bythe rains that fell from the manchionello trees* and with blotches all over their bodies, where the tains happened to haVe accefs. The poi- fdnous quality of thefe trees has befdn noticed by other voyagers, but was more feverely felt upon this occalroTi, than by amy of our people in the like fituation. Many capital thefts werd committed during oar tlay, and fome articles •of confiderable value carried off. * a» '*'•'' ^^^ ' On the 4th of June, Capt. Clark's fteel'yards t/ere ftoln out of his cabin, while he, with other gentlemen, were entertained by the chiefs with a Heiva, or dramatic force on (here : but Was afterwai'Js recovered. On the fame day, as he was mingled with the 'croud, his fcHTars was taken out of his pocket, three dlBferent times, and as often replaced, when milled. On the 7thj we unmoored, and fliifted our ftation; but in fo doing we parted our fmatl bower anchor, with about 27 fathom of cable, the * ■(■'. MM:. f y. liiU't.;'^ ' 1 I;*.} ill' ^l |l m n 104 Capt. C O O K's Voyagr, the anchor remaining among the rockst In the evening we moored again. From this day till The 1 2th, we were employed in recovering the anchor we had iolt, which, after lofing the buoy-rope and grappling,was brought on board, and fecured. One of the natives ftcle an axe from the (hip, but was difcovered, and tired at. I^e efcaped by diving. A party of them had unlafbed the dream anchor, and was lowering it down into their canoe; but, being difco- vered in the a6l, paddled to (bore, and got clear off. ... .., . On the 13th, the live dock, which had been landed the day after our arrival, on a fmall ifland, about half a mile from the ihore to graze, were brought on board amazingly re- covered ; from perfed (keletons, the horfes and cows were grown plump, and as playful as young colts. This day orders were ifllied for failing •, the tents were ftruck, and Mr. Phillipfon, lieutenant of marines, lofl all his bedding, by the carelcflhefs of the centinel, who received 12 lalhes for negle -- On the 24th, moored in a fine bay, on the weft fide of Calafoy, in 22 fathom water, ihelly bottom. We had fcarccly moored, before we were furrounded with natives from all quarters, who had been apprized of our coming, and who had loaded their canoes with hogs, fowls, bread- fruit, yams^ plantains, and every kind of fruit the ifland produced, which they cx» changed for broken glafs, red and blue beeds, (hreds of fcarlet cloth, or indeed any thing wc offered them. • .^-7 . On the 18th, the livc-ftock were landed, and a proper guard appointed to look after them. m i i.t ' f , Here 't !*fr ^1 'm. f ! I I 106 CAt»T. cook's Vcyage Here our friend Tiooncy afiumed the Taitt^ confequence, as at Anamocoa. He came Oh board with his canoe, ladeh with four htgt hogs, bread fruit, and fhaddocks, a fint odo^ riferous fruit, in fmcll and tafte, not unlike n lemon, but Jar^^er, and more round. He brought iikewife yanfis of an enormous Cizo^ weighing from fifty to fixcy founds eachi He was followed by thfe Arakc and chiefs of the liland who came laden in the fame man»> tier, with hogs, fowls, and every fpecies ot provifions the ifland afforded ; thefc he intro^ duced in form to the commanders and officers according to their rank. This ceremony over, the tents were landed, and all hands fct tO work, to finifh the repairs of the (hips. The chiefs were feaftcd on board, and the commanders and officers hofpitably entertained on lliore. Oh our part, fire works were exhibited, the •marines were drawn up, and went through their military manoeuvres, furrounded by thou- fands of natives, who were frightened at firll, and f^ed like herds of deer from the noifc of the guns ; but finding they did no harm, took courage, and rallied at a diflance, but no pcr- fuafions could prevail upon them to come nc;^r. On the part of tiie natives, they vvcrc equally inclined to plcate ; they gave heivas every day j and drew tlieir warrior^ together, who went likewiie through their military excrcilcs, and beat one anotiier leverely in their mock figlits, which ; (ame m me oh m • largfc H It ' He M IS fize, m li -ucl 1 liefs of m ; man*- 1 cies of 1 e inlr(>- ' officers 1 ly over, > H b work. e chiefs ; nanders ■:* fligre. ■. '■ . cd, the 1 .h rough y thoo.- at fir (I, , ^ loifc ot 1, took f 10 pcr- li ic nc?r. L'quaUy yj y tlayi 1 3 went B :s, and W figlits. II which H Capt. COOK*s Voyage. 107 which, in that refpe^t, differed but little from our cudgel-players in England. In this manner, and in ranging the ifland, botanizing, examining thccurioficies, natural and artificial, we employ- ed our time, while the live (lock were gathering ftrength, and recruiting their flc(h, and (he feveral artificers were complcating the repairs of the (hips. It is not cafy for people, who arc totally unarquaintcd with the language cf a country, to make themfelves ma(tcrl of the civil policy of the inhabitants. Indeed it is next to impolTible in a fhort rcfidcnce a- mong them. As we obfervcd no I'uch medium as money, by which the value of property is afcertained, it was not eafy to difcover, what elfe they had fubftituccd in its room, to fa- cilitate the modes of traffic among thwna- felves. Thit each had a property in the plan- tation he polTeired, we cotild plainly dilccrn ; and the Arake and chiefs among them w'.re ready enough to point out their polTelTions, the ex- tent of which gave them conftiquence, as a- mong other civilized nations •, but no iuch thing as circulating property being difcoverable, by the hoardmg up ot" which, and laying it out occalionally to advantage, on- might purchafe another's landed or fubilantial propcrjy, wc could n.)t inform ouifclves lufficicnily, by what means the fiihcrman purchafed his canoe, or thcbiat-buiKl^er his materials, yet there can^ not remain a doubt, but that the boat builder L 2 had iA ,. I*!^ IIS E ll' iq8 Capt. COOK*s Voyage. had an intered in his boat, after it was built, as well as the chief in his plantation, alter it was inclofed and cultivated. With us, all was car- ried on by barter, and an imaginary value Bxed on every article. A hog was rated at a hat- cher, and fo many bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts and plaintains at a firing of beeds : and fo, in like manner, throughout ; but among themfelvcs, we faw no fiich value by way of barter. We did not obferve fo much fruit given for fo many fifli ; nor fo many combs, needles, or ufeful materials, for a certain proportion of cloth ; but doubtlefs, feme mode of exchange there muft be among them ; for it is certain there was no fuch thing as money, at lead none that we could difcern : neither could wc difcover any diftintfl property, which one man claimed more than another in the fcrefts or woods ; but that every man^ like us, cut what he want- ed for ufe, and was under no limitation for fuel. Salt, which is fo neccflfary an article in European houfc-kceping, was wholly unknown to the tropical iflanders. On the 19th, an A rake came on board, and prefcnted Capt. Clarke with a large and cle« gant head-drrfs, ornamented with pearls, ftiells and red feathers, wreathed *vith flowers of the mod refplendent colours. The Captain, in return, loaded him with many uleful articles of European manufadure, knives, fciflars, faws, and forr.e *howy drings of beads, which Capt. cook's Voyage; 109 -« yfihkh were highly prized by the royal Cala- foyan, who thought it no difgrace, to paddle himfclf on (hore, with his rich acquifitions. On the 20th, an alFair happened on board the Difcovery, that had nearly cancelled all fbrnner obligations,and put an end to that friend- ftiip, which mutual afts of civility and gene- rofity had apparently contributed to cement. One of the chiefs, who had been frequently on board, and who had been of the parties cordially entertained, invited, perhaps, by the familiarity of a young cat, and delighted by its playfulnefs, watched his opportunity to car- ry it oflfj but unluckily for him was dete(^ed before he could efFcd his purpofe. He was immediately feized and cUpt in irons, and an cxprcfs fent on (liore, to acquaint the A rake, or king, with the greatnefs of his crime, and the nature of his punifhment. On this news, the Arake himfelf, and feveral of his chiefs haftened on board, when £t> their gnef and aftonilhment, they found th^. prifoner to be the kinf^'a biothtfr. This ncw^ loon circulated j and the whole ifland was in commotion. Tioony frtfonably interpoled. He applied tO Omai, to know what was to be done, and upon what terms his releafe might be procured. Omai told him, his ofFfncc was of fuch a nature, ae not to be remitted without puniihment •, he mult fubmii lc je tied up,and receive loo lafhes ; that the higher he was in ^ank, rhe more necclTary it was to punilh him, by way of example, to de- L 2 ic' m ^ u !. ■ If ^1 ;rr 1^; ^^^^' fih 110 Capt. cook's Vovage. ter others from praaices of the like nature^ and that therefore it was in vain to plead for his deliverance, upon any other terms than fub- miflion. TiQony acquainted the Arakc with all that had pafled, and prefently a number of chiefs entered into confultation upon the mea- fures chat were to be purfued ; feme by their gcftures were for refenting the infult, and others were for fubmitting. Some, in great wrath, were for inftantly returning to (hore, and aflem- bling the warriors in order to make reprizals, and no lefs than feven attemptiid to leave the ihip, but found the way (lopr, to prevent their efcape ; two or three jumped overboard, but were inftantly followed, taken up, and brought back. Thus, finding themfelves befet on all fides, and the king himielf, as well as the chiefs in the power of our Commanders, they again entered mto confultation, and atcer half an hour's deliberation, the refult was, to make a formal furrendtr of ihe priloner, to the Arake of ths fliip ; to befeeeh him to mitigate the ri.<^our of his punilhmcnt ; and at the fame time to put him in mind of the regard that had been fhewn to him and his people, not only by the chi fs of the iQand in general, but more particularly by ihc friends and relations of the offender, who had ii Hill in their po-ver to render them farther lervice. This was what was chiefly intended by the whole proccfs. The prifoner was no fooner furrendered in form, thin Qapt. CQ-QK's Voyaqe. Ml th'^a he was ti«d t^ ;^Ke Ihrogcis, a«;i4 received one If 0^, 9fxd 4iNff^vi. The JQjr of the (PuU x,'m^^, wbQ w«re ^flT^mbled on the Ihorc, w^i^f ing with anxious fufpence to le4ra what wa5 tp become qf thtjr unfortupate chief, is hardly to be conceived when they faw him at large \ tbpy received him on his landing with open arms, ai>d infte^d of refenting the indignity that had been offered p the fecond perfon of th(' ftate, was ready to load his profecutors wirh gifts, and tp proftrarc themfelves in gratitude. Nprt'Og can b? more gharafleriftip of the p^* cific dirf)orKion of thefe friendly j(]anders, than their behaviour on this occafion. They fecm to be the only people upon earth who, in princi- ple and pradice, are true chriftians. They may be truly faid to love their enemies, though they never heard the precept that enjoins it. Early on the 31ft, ^he k'ng c^m^ on board, with four large hogs, and as much bread-fruit, yams, and (haddocks a& his bo^f would hpld, as a prefent to the Cap^aip, for which he would take no return ; but a hatchet and fomc beads were put into his boat, with which he returned, much orr4tified. • 'I lilt « On the 2 2d, their warriors were all drawn up in battle array, and performed amock-fighr, but left any ftratagem (hould be intended, the marines were ordered to attend the engagement ! nothing, however, that indicated treaciiery ap- •peared. The battle was followed by a heiva. illil li'i } '. r^t' vl 7^311 , :■■■ . [,' 112 Capt. COOK'S VoYAdB. in which the two young prineeffes, neices to the chief who dole the cat, were the principal per- formers, and the evening concluded with every mark of perfect reconciliation. On the 23d, orders were given to prepare for failing. The live (lock, that had been grazing, pofTibly, on the lands of him who received the la(h, were got on board, wood and water were brought in plenty, the former of the beft quality, and the latter excellent. In (hort,nothing could exceed the accommodations of every kind, with which we were furni(hed in this delightful ifland. On the 25th, we unmoored, and On the 27th, made fail in company with the Refolution, but in the night, heavy fqualls, with thunder, lightning and rain, to which thefe iflands are much expos'd. Many of the natives accompanied us as pafTengers to A- namocoa. ^ On the 30th, we were employed beating to windward, and about 12 at night, the Refo- lution Bred a gun, as a (ignal of diftrefs. She had run a ground on a reef, but before we could come to her affiftance, (he rolled off. i On the ift of June, we came in fight of the burning mountains, dillance about 4 leagues. And, about 1 1 in the forenoon, moored in a fine bay. Here the Indians came to us with hogs in abundance, fome of which we killed and cured, but the pork loon contradted a difa^ grecabic Capt. COOK'S Voyage. ii| greeable taint, which was much complained of by the fliips companies. While eaten frefln the meat was of an exquifite flavour. ^» ^* « t * Nothing remarkable till the 5th, when we made fail, and about 5 in the afternoon, the Refolution reached Anamocoa, and moored in her old birth ; but the Difcovery not being able to beat up againft the dorm, did not arri^ till feven in the evening. When, calling an- chor, (he drove, and in lefs than an hour, was three leagues to leeward of the Refolution, and in the utmod danger of being wrecked. All hands were now employed in weighing up the anchor, and a number of hand^^ came fea- fonably from the Refolution to our afllftance. The night was tempeftuous, with a heavy rain and a high fea. Our labour, till four in the morn- ing was inceflant. We made but little way to windward, notwithftanding the utmoft exertion of our whole ftrength. Providentially the gale fubfided J we fwaycd the anchor, and before day- light was fafely moored by the fide of the Refolution. '^ On the 8th, Tioony cam.e on board, and gave an account of the lofs of feveral of his peopie, in attempting to accompany us in their canoes from Calafoy and Appy, the ifland on which the burning mountains are fituated j that he himfelf was in the utmoft danger ; that being overfet in his canoe, he was obiigeti to i* KJt hi Hi -i^ 'I I M PS! ',! ^1 '4 $14 Ca^t. C O jO IC' s VovAck. fwiafi tuore th'in two ]«9g^e$ ; and th^c at la$, hie i^si miracyloufly ^ifcQvcred a^ uken up, by a fiftiing canoe onth^ co^ft of Appyi when U^ was almoft fpcnt. W< expreijTed great joy f>n hU deliverance ^ and he no lefs, to Bnd thq 0)ips fafe in their former (latjon, a^ he thought k ^IipaH: in^poiTible, he faid, that they could we.^ther the ftornt). Being now provided with every necefTary thij ifland could afford, „ .^ ■ ; On the 9th, we fet fail for Tongataboo, or Amilerdam Ifland } but in our palTage, both the Refolution and Difcovery fell foul of the fanne ifock : the Refolution only touched upon it flightly •, but the Difcovery ftuck faft, and hung upon it, gunnel too *, happy it was, thac we had day-light, and fine weather, and that the Refolution was within call. By clapping the fails to the mad, and lighce ning the (hip abaft, we fwayed her off with little damage. We were then within two leagues of Amfter- dam; off which, in the evening, we caft |in- chor in fix fathom water. We were ipftantly furrounded with natives, who came to welcome us, and feemed overjoyed 9t our arrival. It is not uncommon with voyagers,to (ligmatize thele jflanders with the name of Savages, than which no appellation can be worfe applied, for a more civilized people does not exid under the fun. During our long (lay with them, we did not fee one inftance of diforder among jhemfelves, nor one perfon punilhed for any mif- [| *'1 Capt. COOK'S VoYACi. 115 njiWcmcanor, by their own chkf« *, wc faw but few quarrels among iiidividuaU. Qn the cpn^ trary, much mirth and ieenciing harmony wa9 obfervable. Highly delighted with their (how9 and heivas, they fpend their ;ime jn a kind. of luxurious indolence, where all labour a little, but none to excefs. The Arake or king paddle* himfelf in his canoe, though he mufl; have s^ low tow to help him to eat. This fcems ftrange to an European, as it reduces th^ man to tjh? condition of a child, and yet r ^s but one re*- move from what ^e fee daily ^ <^(5i;iced before our eyes. The gentleman has his table fpre^cj, his food of various forts fet before hi:n j ha^ all his apparatus made ready, his bread cue, his meat carved, and hia plate furnifbed -, he has his drink handed to him, and in (horr, every thing which the tropical king has, except only conveying all thofe matters to his mouth, which the Arake thinks may as well be done by hh tow tow. Yet the omifllon of this fmgle a<5b of handing his meat and drink to his mouth, brings a term of reproach upon the Arake, tho*, by the handinefs of his fervants in the fervices of the table, the European gains the charader of the polite gentleman. Such and fo flendcr are the diftindions in the refinements of nations ; the barriers that divide floth from fumptuouf- •nefs ; and the fmiplicity of the Arake from the magnificence of the prince. <- w>im iJ^ -i. . .iO.-'KTQ C ^,a v»^. .' ^" *^i /*JJ \tvv / .,-1 iiir ' f ■• •^ >: On ..JL IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I ■ 50 "^^ II^H ^ "^ 12.2 I: U4 ■■■ IL25 i 1.4 - 6" iJiSi 1.6 Photographic ^Sciences Corporation ^ <^v% s\ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WMSTIR.N.Y. I4SM (7I«) •73-4S03 *. : ' i 'm ! ' U iA '. ;>>■' S ■"( ^ r <: .■1^ s *• fi6 Capt. COOK'S VoYAOK. ' On the iith^e weighed and failed in com"* pany with the Kefolution^, and moored ^gain in Maria's Bay, one of the fineft harbours in the South Seas. Here we were furrounded by more than 150 canoes at once, all laden with provilions, or the manufadlures of the coun- try. Tiooney, who feemed to be the emperor of the iflands flill accompanied us. And a- bout (iz leagues from this harbour had his chief refidence. Plenty of hogs, and fowls without number, were brought us, and were purchafed at fo cheap a rate as a hog for a hatchet *, and a fowl for a nail, or two red beads. Our live ftock were put afhore upon a mod delightful lawn, where they ranged at pleafure, and where their paftures were bounded byrefrefhing (hades. On the little ifland on which they were placed to graze, a plalh of water was found, which by digging w^s enlarged to a pond, that not only fupplied drink for the cattle, but water in plen- ty for the ufe of the (hips. In this harbour too were found every nece(rary for repairing the da- mages the (hips had received in (Iriking againfl; the rocks j and here too every attention was paid us that our Commander in Chief had ex- perienced in his farmer vifits, of which the in- habitants had not yet loft the remembrance. But an accident happened that put the whole ifland in motion. While our people were en- gaged in preparing fire-works to entertain the chiefs, two turkies, a (he-goat, and a peacock were Capt. COOK.s Voyage. 117 were ftolen from the Difcovcry, and craftiif carried off. They were no fooner miffed than complaint was made to Tiooney of this breach cf hofpitality, and a peremptory demand made to have the creatures purloined, reftored. Whe- ther he was privy to the theft, and was willing to connive at it 1 or, what .vas more probable, knew not by whom it was committed, nor how readily to recover creatures of fo much curio- fity, which he knew would be artfully conceal- ed, he Teemed to make light of it, and to offer hogs and fowls in return *, but this offer was re- je£led, and Capt. Cook being applied to, or- dered all the canoes to be feizedj two chiefs that were in the Ihip to be detained, and an or- der iffued for carrying fire and fword through the ifland, it they were not, in four and twenty hours, reftored. This order being known a- broad, the inhabitants affembled from all quar- ters, and in lefs than half a day, more than 1500 appeared in arms, upon the beach; in the mean time, our two Captains had ordered their pinnaces out, their boats to be manned and armed, parties of marines to be put on board, and every preparation to be made, as if to carry their threats into execution. Upon their firft landing, a native iffued from the woods, out of breath, as if juft come from a long journey, and acquainted the Captains that he had feen the (Irange creaures, that had been taken away, at the houfc of a chief, on the oppofite l\M 1: » ■H> !: ^ ii8 Cxpt. C0OK*s Voyage. oppoUte fide of the ifland, whither he was rea- dy to conduA them, if they chofe to follow him. The Caj^ains thinking this a proper op- portunity to furyey the iQand, accepted the offer ; and accordingly fet out, in company t»ith Mr. Ely the, madcr of the Refolution, Mr. Williarii^n, 3d Lieutenant, with feveral other gentlemen, attended with a party of ma- rines, dire^ing their courfe as the Indian ted the .They had hardly been gone an hour, before ftrong parties of Indians poured down from the hills, to firengthen thofe that were Already affembled upon the beach. The Captain of marines, who had charge of the boats, having drawn up his men on feeing the numbers of ttie enemy begin to appear formidable, ordered them to fire over their heads. This they difrc- garded, and were beginning their war-fong, which always precedes their coming to adlion, when the Captain gave Tioony to underftand, that he would inOanUy dedroy them, if they did not that moment difperfe. Tiooney ter- rified by the countenance with which this threat was accompanied, rufhed among the foremofl: ranks of the warriors, feized the fpears of the chiefs, broke feveral of them, and reiurning, laid them at the Captain's feet. This had in part the dcfired effcdl •, the Indians retreated In a body, but fecmingly unwilling to difpeiie. ' ' The GifcPT. COOK'S Voyage. 119 Thd Captain diQiking the appearance of the «nemy, made figns from the (bore for t^p (hips to bring chfetr broadl^e^ to bear, and at the fame time drew up his men under their guns. The commanding officers on board improved iche hint, and in{iantly fired fome round (hot di- redly over the heads of the thicked of the ene» my» This compleaced. what Tioony, Ijiad be* gun^ a pbpic feized^^he Cihief5> and the r^ fled like fo many (heep wUh^vna purfuer. Capt. Cook, ignorant of whfc had happened,, but not out of hearing of the great gun$; was at a lofs to determine whether to go on or to re- turn*, but the great guns ceafing af^er'tKe (ird difcharge^ be rightly concluded that, whatever might be the original caiile of their Qring, it did not require a fecond difcharge to remove it i he therefore refolved to proceed. In his progrefs* .the heat became almoft incqlerable^ which was rendered fliil more iqfupporcabk by the want of water:, there being no/ic to be met with, except in lagoons, that were braclcifh. After a journey of mpre than 12 miles, through a country interfected with numerous plantations, and where there was hardly any beaten path,he at length arrived at the rcfidenceof the chief, whom he found fealling on a barbicued pig, a Itewcd yam, and fome bread fruir, of which he had plenty. Surprized at the (ighc of the Captain and his attendants, and confcious of their er- rand, he went out immediately, and proJucfd '.ii if-mr > ."! the mi ;..-)- M:' ■ -■ -■-■?■• .,! 1 ' hh \ ^.M'' 7H 1 20 Cai»t. COOK'S Voy AOE. the turkey, goat, and peacock, which he rea* dily returned, but made no apology for the theft, nor for the trouble he had given the Arake of the (hips, in coming fo far to recover the lofs. •--•^ '1^ ai3::::J3 -t: :!£fr:-r:.--> m ■ "' On their return to the tents, they found Tiooney ftill there, who welcomed them with much iteming (incerity, and began with apo- logizing for the condudt of his people, owing, he faid,' to the mifapprehenfion of the orders from the (hips, which w^re, as they thought, to btirn and deftroy all without exception, men, wonien, and children, and to lay wafte the ifland. He then invited Capt. Cook to accom- pany him a little way into an adioining wood, with which invitation he very readily complied, and found two cocoa-nut trees, with the bran- ches (tript of their leaves and fruits, hung with yams, bread-fruit, and (haddocks ranged in fpirals curioufly interfedted, and terminated each witli two hogs, one ready barbicued, and one alive, which he had ordered to be prepared as prefents to the two Commanders, for which he would receive no return. The barbicued hog was an acceptable prefent to the people who had travelled four and twenty miles, with no other refrelhment than what they carried with them, except fome fruit, which they gathered on the road. A party of Indians were planted in rea- dinefs to difmantle the trees, and the boats were employed to carry their contents on board the (hips i and thus ended this memorable day, which. Capt. C O O K's Voyage. 121 which, probably, will be commemorated as a day of deliverance, by their latcft pofterity. During our ftay here, more capital thefts were committed, and more Indians puniflied than in all the friendly idands befides ; one was pu- nifhed with 72 lafhes, for only Healing a knife, another with 36, for endeavouring to carry 06 two or three drinking glafles ; three were pu- nifhed with 36 lafhes each, for heaving Hones at the wooders •, but what was ftill more cruel, a man for attempting to carry off an axe, was ordered to have his arm cut to the bone, which he bore without complaining. It is not to be wondered, that after fuch wan- ton a£ts of cruelty, the inhabitants fhould grow outrageous; and, though they did not break out into open adts of hoflility, yet tht;y watch* ed every opportunity to be vexatious. - - On the 19th, Mr. Williamfon and Mr. BIythe, who were fond of fhooting, and con- fequently of ranging the woods and thickets, were let upon by ten or twelve of the natives, who took from them their fowling-pieces and fhot-bags, the former of which they carried off, but dropped the (hot>bags on being purfued. Recourfe was had to the former expedient, of feizing the canoes, and threatning the ifland, as before, and one of the fowling-pieces was, by that means, recovered j but the other was never returned , , , If- -' ill M On f ^ WT^ it ^ y n, ' I " 5, fv J 122 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. On the 25th, orders were given to prepare fur failing, ilie live (lock were taken on board, lb altered, that they coald not have been known for the fame poor ikeletons which, two months before, had been landed on thefc fertile fhores. Capt. Cook made Tiooney a prefcnt of a horfe md 1 mare, a buii and a cow, a ram and a ewe, for the many iervkes he had rendered him and his people, during their refidence in the friendly ides, by which he gratiBed him beyond his utmoft wilhes, Thefe valuable prcfcnts were immediately driven to his palace, at Ton* ga-ta boo, diltant about four leagues. The Ihips being now complcatly flowed ( having wood and water as much as they couki make room for, with hogs and bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts^ yams and other roots, greens in abundance, and, in (hort, every thing that the ftiips could contain, or the crews defire, the boats were fent out to fcek a paflage to the Ibmh-eaft- ward, in order to vifit the celebrated little Ifland of Middleburgh, of which, former voyagers have civen a moft flattering dclcription. .•'i-.^tt ^/fv> On the 29th, the boats returned, having dif- covered a narrow gut, not half a cable's length in breadth, and from 3; to 5 fathom wateri loomy bottom. This day, Mr. Nelfon, of whom mention has already been made, being alone on the hills and rocks, colieding plants and herbs» indige- nous to the idand, and at a confiderable dil- idnce Capt. COQK's Vovaoe, 123 tance from the (hips, was attacked by five or fix Indians, who firft began by throwing ftoncs, at which they are very i ; -^rj igM; i: On the 3d, while we were getting things in readincfs to depart, we had an >>portunity of difcovering the reafon of a very fiu^jrular mark, which was ob(erved by former navigators t little above the temples of many of the chiefs. We perceived that this day was kept facred throughout the whole ifland } that nothing was futfered to be fold, neither did the people touch any food, and befidcs that leveral of our new acquaintance were miffing. Enquiring into the caufe, we were told th.it Tiooney's mo- ther was dead, and that the chiefs, who were Ma . her 1 '<] > ^!i ml' ■'J I j: 1 ?? 5; I 1;. i'A it •1 i i 124 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. her defcendants, ftayed at home to have their temples burnt. This cuflom is not confined to this idand only, but is likewife common to feveral others, particularly to thofc of Ea-oo- we, or Middleburgh, and Appee. This mark is made on the kft fide, on the death of a mother, and on the right when the father dies ; and on the death of the high prieft, the firft joint on the little finger is amputated. Thefe people have therefore their religious rites, tho* we were not able to difcovcr how, or when they were performed. , i ^ ' " *'' * > ': v v - - On the 4th we unmoored, worked out of the bay, and lay in readinefs to take the ad- vantage of a wind to carry us through the gur, in our way to Ea-oo-whe, or Middleburgh, which, 4-j. t^;*^^ ,-i'n;»4j vivf^^'i jr*!!! vn.i ri On the 7th, we accompli(hed. Being now clear of the reefs, we again cad anchor, at a* bout three leagues diftance. We had fcarce let fall our anchors, when there came aiong-fide a large canoe, in which there were three men and a woman, of fuperior dignity to any we had yet feen -, one of them, fuppofcd by his vene- rable appearance, to be the high pried, held a long pole or fpear in his hand, to which he tied a white Bag, and began an oration which laded a confiderable time ; and after it was ended, he afcended the fide of the (hip, and fat down, with great compofure, upon the quarter-deck, till he was accolled by Capt. Clarke, who after the Capt. cook's Voyage." 125 the ufual falutations, invited him, and thoie who accompanied him into the great cabin ; but his attendants declined the invitation •, and to make known the dignity of the great perlbnage, in whofe prefence they were, they proftrated themfelves before him, the women as well as the men, and kifs'd the fole of his right foot* This aged Indian brought with him, as a pre- fen^ to the Captain, four large hogs, fix fowls, and a proportionable quantity of yams and plantains. In return, the Captain gave him a printed gown, a Chinefe looking-glafs, fome earthen cups, and feveral other curiofities, which he accepted with great courtefy, and with an air of dignity, which remarkably diftingui(hed him. The Captain and officers paid him great attention, and (hewed him the different accom- modations on board the (hip, at which he ex- pre(red great aftoni(hment. He was then in- vited to eat, which he declined. He was of- fered wine, of which the Captain drank firft ; he put it to his lips, tafted it, but returned the ' glafs. After being on board little more than an hour, he was defirous of taking leave, and pointed to a little ifland, to which he gave the Captain a very prefTing invitation to accompany him i but that could not be complied with, as the (hips were every moment expeded to fail. This venerable perfon was about fix feet three inches high, finely proportioned, and had a^ M 3 com* ■ J u 4 Pi- h H ' , .'ifi i B I ti'l ^] ■'f. •IV I! I N, !v :ili''^' Ml 126 Capt. cook's VoYAtJi. commanding air, that was both affable and graceful. .:■• .i T-"!l ji-qr' On the 8th, Tiooney came on board thci Refolution, to take his final lea^e : he brought iwith him Hve hogn, with a large proportion of yams and fruit. He teftiBed his grief at parting. With all that appearance of iinceritf that characterizes the people of thefe happy iAands. ^ On the 9th wt weighed, and on the 12 th cad anchor, on the S W. fide of the Ifland of Ea-06-whe, or Middleburgh, where the people came on board with as little ceremony as if they had been acquainted with us for many years. They brought us the produce of the iQand % but being already fupplied with every neceflary of that kind, our chief traffic was for birds and feathers. Here the parrots and parroquets were of the mod beautiful plumage, far furpalTing thofe ufually imported into Europe from the Indies •, there were a great variety of other birds, on which many gentlemen in both ihips l^t a great value, though they were purchafed for trifles. The feathers we purchafed were of di- vers colours for the northern market, but chiefly red from the Marquedis and Society Jfles. We alfo purchafed cloib, and many oiher articles of curious workmanfhip, the artilh of this ifland, for invention and ingenuity in the execution, exceeding thofe of all the other iflands in the South Seas. But what chiefly tended to pro- _ long Capt. cook's Voyage. 127 long our (lay here was the richnefs of the grafs, which made into hay proved cxcellf nt food for our live ftock. From the accounts circulared through the (hip when we arrived, it was ge- nerally believed, that we might travel through this ifland with our pockets open, provided they were not lined with iron ; but to this, the be- haviour of a party of the inhabitants to Wil- liam Collet, Captain's fteward of the Difcovery, was an exception. Being alone, diverting him- felf in furvcying the country, he was fet upon and ftript of every thing he had about him, his (hoes only excepted, and on preferring his complaint, his keys were all that he was able to recover. '■ * " ' " ' ' '' • "^ On the 1 8th, orders were given to prepare for failing : and Otaheite was appointed our place of rendezvous, in cafe of feparation. We had now been near three months improving our live dock, wooding, watering, repairing our fhips, and laying in frelh providons in thefe friendly iQands, when the above orders were iflfued out. The crews of both (bips received thefe orders with alacrity ; for» though they wanted for nothing, yet they longed to be ac Otaheite, where many of them had formed connections that were dear to them, and where thofe, who had not yet been there, had con- ceived fo high an idea of its fuperioriiy, as to make them look upon every other place chey * ^ ' ' M 4 touched •I i imt M' \ i m ■;l'- If 5>i ^^ mm lit",' 't /«■- ''\:l:'' ,,,,d> •f ^1' 1 1! s J r'f 'I ■IKI i? '.'v J I ;( 128 Capt. cook's Voyage. touch at as an uncultivated garden, in compa- rifon with that little Eden. v. . . . . , / At fix in the morning we weighed, and were foon under fail, (leering our courfe to the fouth- ward, to fetch a wind to carry us to our intend- ed port. On the 19th we were out of fight of land, when in lat. 22 deg. 24 min. S. the wind Ihift- cd fair W N W. with hard gales, which con- tinuing for feveral days, * .n >j:- : • On the 23 d we found our (hip leaky, and no poflibility of (lopping her leaks till we could make land. All hands were employed in pump- ing out the water, and when we found it did not increafe upon us, the leak gave us little or no concern. Nothing remarkable till the 30th, when in lat. 28 deg, 7 min. the weather became tem- peftuous, and a ludden fquali carried away our main-top and top- gallant mail, fpiit our main- fail, and carried, away the jcb. It is adoni fil- ing to fee with what fpirit and alacrity Eng- ]i(h failors exert themfelves on fuch occafions. Amidft a (lorm, when it is aimed impoflible for a landfman to trud himfclf upon deck, our failors mounted aloft, and with incredible rapi- dity cleared away the wreck, by which they preferved'the (hip. Nothing equal to this dif- after had happened to us in the courfe of the voy- age. During the night we hoided lights and fired guns of didrefs, but neither were icenor heard by Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 129 by the Refolution, The ftorm continuing with unabated fury during the night and all next day, we handed our fails, and fcudded under our fore-fail and mizzen ftay-fail at the rate of feven and eight knots an hour, and at length were obliged to lie too with our fliip's head to the weft, courfe E N E. ' " " . On the 30th we got fight of the Refolution, about tour leagues to leeward. She had da- maged her mam-top maft head, but had Se- cured it, and was otherwife in pcrfed repair. Auguft the ift we celebrated theanniverfary of our departure from England, having jult been one year abfent. The men were allowed a double allowance of grog, and they forgot in the jollity of their cups, the hardfhips to which they were expofed in the ftorm. On the 2d our carpenters were employed in re-placing the old top-maft with a new one; but juft as they had got it in readinefs to point the bafe of the top-maft through the main-top, they difcovercd, to our unfpeakable grief, that the main-maft head was ftiattered four or five feet below the top. This put an end to our la- bour at this time. The top-maft was lowered till the main maft could be fecured, which was a work of infinite difficulty in our fituation, and could not be accompliftied without the affift- ance of the carpenters from the Refolution. The fignal of diftrcfs was thrown out, but the fea ran lb high that no boat could live. In this ' ' fituation ir \v t' i) ml m I." ■■ ii n 1, 130 Capt. cook's Voyage. fituation we continued till the florm abated, when the mad being lathed, a fpare jeb-boom was got up for a main-top-maft, and a mizzen top-fail yard for a top-fail yard i and thus e- quipped, we made what fail we could, the Re- folucion (borcening fail to keep us company. In this crazy condition, with our leaks ra- ther increafed, we met with a itorm On the 3d, which required the utmod exer- tion of our (Vrengch to encounter ; every hand in the (hip was employed, fome at the pumps^ and others in handing the fails, which was a work of the greated danger, yet happily accom- plifhed without an accident. . ., On the 4th at fix in the morning the man at the mad- head called out land, which was joy- ful news to all on board, and about feven we ftood in for it. About eleven we faw feveral canoes paddling towards the (hips, in each of which were three naked Indians. We made (igns for them to come on board, which they de- clined i but made figns for us to land. Our boats were indantly hoifted out and fent to found, but no anchorage being found, it was refolved to purfue our voyage without lofing any more time. This ifland was a new difco- very. Its latitude by obfervation 27 dcg. 31 min. longitude 208 deg. 26 min. £. The rrien appeared of the largcit (laturc,and tattowed from head to foot *, the language didcrent from any we were yet acquainted with, and their drcfs *»r CAi»t. COOK'S VoYAG«. 131 dreii not unlike that of the Amfterd^mmers, their complexion darker, their heads orna- mented with fhtlhi feathers and flowers •, and their CAfiocs elegantly carved, and neatly con- ftruded. Of their manners we could form little or no judgment. They appeared timid ; but by their waving green boughs, and cxhi- bicmg other figtts of peace, they gave us rea- fon to believe that they were friendly. They exchanged fomc fmall fifh and cocoa-nuts, for nails and Middleburg^ cloth. The appearance of the illand, as we approached it, was lofty, but fmall. Its greateft length about 4 leaguest and its breadth about 2 leagues. We now proceeded with an cafy breeze, till the 13th, when the man at the malb-head cal« ling out I«and, diftance about feven or eight leagues, we foon perceived it to be the Ifland of Otaheite, of which we were in purfuit. On the 14th, about fix in the morning, we flood in for the land, and before night were fafely moored in the harbour, called by the natives, Otaite Peha. Here we were fur- rounded by an incredible number of canoes filled with natives, befiJes men women and children, who fwam to the (hips, exprefling their joy at our arrival. We were fcarce moored, before the king, attended by mo(l of the royal family, came on board the RcfoUuion to wel- come Capt. Cook i the (hores every where re • founded with the name of Cook ; not a child, thdt 'H!' A ' .'t >r - I M Ml 1 m \ if' 'Pit ^■ m -t; 132 Capt. cook's Voyage; that could lifp Toote, was iilent ; their accla- mations filled the air. The king brought with him fix large hogs, fome bread-fruit and plan- tains as a prefent i and Capt. Cook, after the fir(t falutations had paiTed, prefejuted the king with two large hatchets, fome (howy beeds, a looking-glafs, a knife, and fome nails. He alfo made prefents to his followers. .. They were eager to enter into converfation with Omai, and informed Capt. Cook, through his means, of the arrival there of two Spanish ihips from Lima, about eight months before; that at their departure they had taken three of the natives with them, and had left one of their people in their room, who had been dead fome time \ that they had built a houfe on (hore(* and erefled a crofs with an infcription, which were (liil (landing *, that they had left fome cattle, with goats, (hcep, and geefe i but that mod of them were dead ; that they promifed to return foon ; and that they had been there more than once, fince Capt. Cook's laft vifit. Din- ner was no fooner over, than both Captains, accompanied by Omai, and conduced by the royal fanily, went on (hore and vifited the Spanifh erections ; which feemed to indicate a deeper defign than the natives were aware of; they had taken pofleffion of the ifland, in the name of his Catholic Majelly, and had infcribed the crofs with the king's name, and date of the year 1777, which Capt. Cook took the liberty r Capt; cook's Voyage. 133 liberty to pull down and carry away, telling them at the fame time to beware of their Spa- nifli vifitors, and not to be over-fond of them, Moft of the frefti provifions, with which we were fupplied at the friendly ifles, being ex- pended in the voyage, orders were given to prohibit all trade with the natives, except for providons} and that only with fuch perfons» as were appointed by the commanders as pur- veyors for the (hips. By this neceflary regular tion, frefli provifions were loon procured m plenty, and every man was allowed a pound and a half of pork every day. On the 16th, Omai was put in poflc/Iion of the houfe the Spaniards had built ; his bed put up afttr the Fnglilh fafliion -, and he was in- dulged to fleep on (bore during our Ihort ftay at this part of the iOand. Capt. Cook like- wife caufcd the Spanifli infcription to be erafed, the crofs to be effaced, and a new infcription to be cut, with the name of the Englilh (hips that had difcovered the ifland, the date 1772 when firft difcovered, and the name of his Majefty, King George, to take place of that of the Spanilh King Carlos. Here alfo the live (lock were landed, and put to graze in the meadows that bordered on the fhore. '^'^ ^■ On the 17th, Capt. Cook, with Omai, took an airing on horfeback to the great aftonifhment of the inhabitants, many hundreds of whom followed 'K ^,H f m t -h-- ..Jl i' t f« (V' ' \ ^i ■* 134 Capt. cook's Vovaqe. followed them with loud acclamations. Qmai, to excite their admiration the more, was drefled cap-a-pee in a fuit of armour, which he car- ried with him, and was mounted and caparifon* cd with his fword and pike,ljke St, George goin^ to kill the dragon, whom he exadly reprefcnted j only that Omal had piiloU in his holders, of. which the poor faint knew not the ufe, Omai, however, made good ufe of his arms, and when the crowd became clamorous, and troublefome, he every now and then pulled out a piftol and fired it Imong them, which never failed to fend them icampermg away. * . . , , For thefe Uft two or three days, the caulkers from both (hips were employed, in (topping the leaks of the Difcovery j apd the carpenters in fecuring the mails, till we (hou1(^ arrive at the port of Mattavai, where the Ibips w^re to undergo a thorough repair. . ^ * ,, -V On the 1 8th and 19th it blew a har^ gaki and we were obliged to vear out 20 fathon^ a)pre of our beft bower cable, as we rode hard at our moorings. . ,.^ ^ ;. ,._^.» , ...j .^,^..^ ^^ On the 21^, the fignal waa made for un- mooring, ,.- v. ,. a: .. r -. .V .. M> "^^ .:'.. f r Early on the 2 2d, in the morning, the live (lock were taken on board, and about nine we weighed and failed, accompanied with kvcril canoes, though the >yind blew a (Ipni), and we failed under double-reefed top-faiis. In the evenmg, the Refoiution took her old flation f . in Capt. cook's Voyage. 135 in Maccavai Bay : but the wind fuddenly (bifting and the breeze coming full from the land, we were driven 3 leagues to leeward of the bay •, by which we were reduced to the necefllty of work- ing all night to windward, amidd thunder, light- ning and rain, and among reefs of coral rocks, on which we every moment expeflxd to perifh. We burnt falfe fires, and fired feveral guns of diftrefs *, but no anfwer from the Refolution, nor could we fee any objeft ^0 direfl us during this perilous night. ^ ' ..* In the morning of the 23d, the weather cleared up, and we could lee the Refolution about three leagues to windward, when a fliift of wind happening in our favour, we took ad- vantage of it, and by twelve at noon were fafely moored within a cable's length of the Refolution. It is impofiible to give an iadeqiiate idea of the joy, which the natives ex- prefied upon our arrival in this bay, becaufe their manner of expreflfing joy is fo different from our fenfations, that were we to fee peribns flabbing themlelves with (harp inftruments till their bodies were bcfmcared with blood, we Ihould think they were pierced with the mod frantic defpalr, and that it would be alniod impofTible to affuage their grief j whereas beat- ing their breads, tearing their hair, and prick* ing their heads, their hands, their bodies, are the mod fignificant figns of their gladncfs to fee the friends they love bed. At the fame time they i-: *^1 t *^* it u Hr' ■Mi* 'l( ' ? :■!; W^'l':^: m rriji,, -i'.>iy:, 1 '^A ' . H;i!^ r.i S!< r'y-' 136 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. they are ready to overwhcltrt you with kind-i nefs, and would give you, for the moment, aU they have in the world, but the very next hour crave all back again, and like children teize you for every thing you have got. : Ue ^ni ,;^ The (hips were no fooner fecured,^ thart the Tailors began dripping them of every yard ©f rigging they had left; for certainly no ftiips were ever in a more (battered condition. Our voyage from New Zealand, if not from the cape, might be faid to be one continued feries of tcmpeftuous weather, fufpended only by a few intervals of fun-fhine *, and the employment of our artificers at fea and on (hore, a laborious , exertion of their faculties to keep us above wa- ter. Here it was not only ncceflaiy to drip the main-ma(t of the Difcovery *, but to take kout and carry it on (hore, to be properly fcQurgd# This was a work of no fmall difficulty. Here (oojt was found neceffary, to un(hip our (lores of every kind; to air and repack the powder ^ new bake that part of the bread that had con*- traded any dampnefs: to erefb the forge oip ihore ; and in (liort, to fet all Qur artificers t^ work on board and on fliore, to refit the (hips for the further profecution of the voyage. A me(renger was difpatched from Captain Cook to King Otoo, to acquaint him with our arrival, and to defire his permiflTion to fend the cattle he had brought from Britain, to feed in tlic paftures of Oparrce. The king expreflTed 4* ft^/V/.V/^'. Oma^j )/Wf/fr(^it^ on ^-/.ij/rt^^ /{rmA'r?// ^A^^/aA/'/A'. ,1 ^'! u; .Vi U f.: %\ HB m ^fi fflP^^^ K •^ vt ll 1 iiH 1 iSNI 1; Capt. COOK'S VoYAOB. 137 , his joy on the return of Capt. Cook, and rea^ dily gave his confent. He at the fi^tpe time ordered one of his principal officers to accom* . pany the meOTenger in his return, and. to, take with him pnefents. of frefli provifions for the commanders of both (hips, and to invite them on (bore, to dine with him the next day. This^ invitation was accepted, and it was, agreed between the Captains, that their viilt Ihould be made with as; much (tate as th^irprefeqc ci/cumftances would admit. The marines and mufic were therefore ordered to be in readinefs at an appointed hour, and all the rowers to be clean drefled. On the 25th, about noon, the commanders^ with the principal officers and gentlemen, em«i l}arked on ^ard the pinnaces, which, on this occafion, were decked in all the magnificence that filken ,i}:reamers, embroidered enfigns^ and other gorgeous decorations could dilplay^ Omai, to furprize the more, was doathed in a Captain's uniform, anci coukl hardly* be diftin- guiflied from a Britifb officer. , ,^^ , .^^. . From Mattavai to Oparree, was about (!< leagues. They arrived at the landing-pla^e, about one-o'clock in the afternoon, and were received by the marines already under arms. As foon as ^he company were difembarked, the whole band of mufic ftruck up a grand miUtary march* and the procellion began. The road from the beach to the entrance of the palace :^ , : ' N (ahow p. Hi u 7i; ■ lit- l^« > 1, y,' m ,{ > I I3« ' Gapt. C O O IC's VovAt*. (about Imlf a mile) ¥lraa lined on bdtdi fides with nathres from all ports, expeding to fee Omai on horfeback^ ai the accovrnro£> his a^- peardrice on his fiHl laixiing ofvthe other fide of th6 idand, as before related, had already reached the inhabitants on this. As he appeared to them in difguife, he wai not knoW6 ; they vpere not however wholly difappointed^ as the grandeur of the proccflion exceeded e^pfcry thing of the kirtd they had cvtr feen. The whole court were likewife affemWed, and the krng,' with his lifters, on the approach of Capt;Cook, came forth to meet hitn. As he was pjiifidftly known to them, their firft falucations^^erefrank ftnd friendly, according to the knoWn cuftoibs of the Otahettcanis, ahd whehthcfcwcit ovcr> proper attention was paid to ^rery gcntleiiMm in company 1 and that too with * politefiels that, to thofe who h«d never been oh thts^idand before, wastiuitctmcicpcftedi^'.i»^^a i'^»»iv> ij .o As foon as the tompany had ^htei-ed tfhe palace and were feated, and ibme -d^f^ouffc had pafied between the kitt^ ahd Capt Cook-, Omal was prcfcnted to his M^jtfty. He hzii hithd-to elbaped unnoticed, >x^ith the other Officers who were not particulaily known. Qttia! paid his Majedy the ufual homage of a fubje'd to a fa- vere^n in that country, which confil^s Of little more than being uncovered before htmy and then entered into familiar converiktion, Oh the fubjeft of hii travels. The J^arees, or kings m Caft. COOK'S VoYAoz, 139 of this country, ar^ not above difcourfing with the mcancft of their fubjcfbj, but Omai was now confidcred here as a perfon of rank, and a fatourite of the Earees of the (hips. The king, impatient to hear his ftory, alkrd him a hun- dred quedions before he gave him time to an- fwer one. He aiked him concerning the Earce** da-hai, or Great King of Pretanne» his place of reGdenee* his court, his attendants, his warriors, his (hips of war, his morai, thfi ex- tent of his pofieiTions, &c. &c. Omai did not fail to magnify the grandeur of the Great King. He repDefented the fplendour of his coprt bf the brilliancy of the {(ars in the firmament i the extent of his dominions, by the vaft expaniie of heavAn » the greAcaefs of his power, by ^ thunder that Ihakfs the earth. He C^id, ,ihf Great King of Pretaane ha4 tiffUf hvo^red thouiknd warriors every day at hw eomm^nd* cloathed like thofe who now mmdfd the Ea- rees of the (hips, gnd more than doiMbk thai number of (ailors, who travorfed the glob.e» from the rifing of the fun to his 6:uiog % that his (hips of war exceeded thofe at Mattavai in Rlagflittidf, in the fame proportion, as ^pfe exceeded the imall canoes at Oparree.f-r-Hls Mii- jefty appeared all aftonilhment, and could not help imerruptiog him. He aiked, if wh^t he faid was true, where the Great King fiOuW find people to navigate fo maoy diips gs cpvf red the ocean from one extremity to the other ? and if he could find men, where he could find provi- N g fions lit ^ If 5* • 1 »,1 I t I m III" 140 Capt. COOK'S VovAci. fions for fo great a multitude ? Omai aflured him, that he had fpoken nothing but truih t that in one city only on the banks of a river far removed from the Sea, there were more people than were contained in the whole group of iflands with which his Majefty was acquainted ; that the country was full of large populous ci- ties ; notwithftanding which provifions were fo plentiful, that for a piece of a certain yellow metal, like that of which he had feen many [meaning the medals given by the Captain to the Earees] the great king could purchafe as much provifions as would maintain a fajlor on board a (hip a whole year ^ that in the country of the great king, there are more than 100 different kinds of four footed animals, from the fize of the fmalleft rat when it is firft brought forth, to the magnitude of a (lage erected on an ordinary canoe, on which fix men may (land eredt % that all thefe animals are fo numerous in their feveral kinds, and propagate fo fa(i, that were it not that fome were killed for food, and that others prey one upon the other, they would over-run the land. Omai, hav- ing by this relation obviated kingOttoo's doubts, adverted to his Brft quellions. He faid, the (hips of war of Pretannc were furnifhed with poo-poos [guns] each of which would receive the largeft poo-poo his Majefty had yet feen, within it •, that fome carried 200 and more of thofe poo-poos, with fuitable accommodations for athoufand fighting men, and (lowage for ail forts of • S i Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 141 of cordage and warlike (lores, befides provifions tfnd water for the men and other animals, for 100 or 200 days ; and that they were fometimes abroad as long warring with the enemies of the great king in the different parts of his domi- nions in the remotefl: regions of the earth ; that they frequently carried with them in thefe ex- peditions poo-poos, that would hold a fmall hog within them,and which throw hollow globes of iron, of a vail bignefs, BUed with fire and all manner of combuftibles, and implements of deftruftion, to a ^rqat (JiHance ; a few of which, ;were they to be thrown among the fleet of Ouheite, would fet them on fire, and deftroy the whole navy,, were they ever fo nu- merous. ThCi^ing feemed more aflonifhed than delighte4 with this narration, and fuddenly leftOnui^to join the company that were in con- verfation with Capt. Cook and the other offi- cers. By this time dinner was nearly ready, and as loon as the company were properly feated, was brought in by as many tow- tows as there were perfons to dine •, befides thefe, the king, the two commanders, and Omai, had each of them two perfons of fuptrior rank to attend them. The dinner confUlcd of ti(h and fowl of various kinds, dreffcd after their manner; barbicued pigs, dewed yams, and fruirs of the moil delicious flavour, all ferved with an eafe and regularity that is feldom to be found at t Ij N 3 European ^t 1 ' /• 1 ' . ■ ■j..; ,■; 1 i if m 'Ml:-: I if ,i'f »'* I ■ f:i B '-. i, [ Vf 142 CAi»r. COOK'4 VoyAO*. European tables, ^htn the ladies ard tfitehided ifrom making part of the cdihp^rty. ^ ''«w f >i» i\s foon as dinner was over, wbidh adnftrts of fio ceremdhy, We w^re tondu&ed to the thHxtti where a company of players Wefe iti Itiidindl to perform a drsm^tieal entertain tn«ht. The drama was regularly divided \tit6 tht«ea£tS! the 6rft confifted of danting and dumb fhciw i the fecond of comedy; which to thoffc who underflood the language was very laughdble, hi Omai and the natives appeared highly div<^rd^ the whole time; the la^ Was a mtliital pitct* in which the yoiirig princedes wei-6 th^ IbM perfotmers. Therfc wtre between the ads ibme feats of arms ejthlbiced; The combatants W6tt armed with lahces And ddbs. Q^& mtde tht attack, the Other ftood upon (M A^fdftfive. He who made the Attack brandilhed his lante, and either threw, pUlhed dr ufed it ih Aid Of his club. Me who was upon the dcfenfivc, ftuck the point of his lai^ce in the ground, in ah ob* lique diredlion, lb that the upper part rdfe above his head, and by obferving the tyt of his ene*. my» parried his blows or his Ittokes by tht motion of his lance. By his dexterity at this manoeuvre he turned adde the lance, and it was rare that he was hurt by the club. If his anta*- goni{\ (Iruck a: his legs, he Ihewed his agility by jumping over the club ; and if at hfs head, he was no lefs^ nimble in crouching under it. Their dexterity confided chiefly in the defence, other* ot^rwiTc; tha cpmbac fin^gl^. l^ve \^eji f^t^ wiiich 4^iiy* pndc4 w g^od; bumoipr.. ^ i,';;^;, *tw*^ jfeW J^oim:»» are reali^ divcrcingi %hpr id^ififij^}fi2^ p^tn m^qb^ iwovcd by copying it^^rfgr^jxMLnaer. Ja the hpropipc (liejf re^ty 1^3^ t^eirmaftei^': thty add CQf^t(^u^» of th^ fj^f .^H>4 muCcktbo cKe aimbkael^ «f tl^e foo^ .^31;^^ initpiti^ef ^nd mui^, UiOfuto of out grayity^ provoke Uughcor ( tl^eir coua* uy ;4?9C|:< pQo are ^<4i /Te^uUted i tod diqy l^ve 4>acf« of their o\iyn, that are eqi^a^ 139 thofeatouf \^& theatre^ ^ th^ir comedy ^em$ to C9ipi^^ fome (Icnple i)jory, made iaughabl^ by the m^pner of d^very, Ibmcdiing if^ i% ftyle of the merry ^ndreiKS formerly at Bartho- lomew fyk i and cbeir imging is very Qmple, and might be much improved. Had. Omai been of ^ theatrical ca(^» he doubtlcl^ Q^lg^ h^vc ]i?cry much improved, tl^cir ftage ; for tl^ir perforpers appear inferior 5^ none in thQ|>ow.cri of imitation. > '•• •■ . . - .,-v.. The play being over, and night sipproa<;hing^ our comn^nders toolc ch^o' leave, after inviting the king and hia attendants to dine on bo4rd tlic (hips. We were conduded to the water-Hde in the fame manner as we approached the pa> lace, and w^re attended by the king and royal family, .f''Vf1'. » :\--rf" -^r J f.^^ T'-H * On the 25th in the morning, Omai*i mother, and feveral of his rclacions arrived. Their « . i ... N 4 meeting i ^^t -1; Mr-, ,1 ■ « it ; lii I. ■V. Ix^, < <4 i I 144 Capt. C O O K ♦ s VovAdt; meeting Was too unnatural to bepleafing. We could not fee a woman frantically ftriking her foceand'armi with (hat-Ics teeth, till the was M bvcf befmeared with blood, Without being hurt} as it conveyedno idea of joy to feeling minds, we could never be reconciled to this abiiird cuftom. Shie brought with her^ feveral large hogs, with bread-fruitj batianbij ahd o- ther ^rod\i6lions of the Iflahd of UHteaj as prefents to the Captains, and (he and her friends received in return^ a great Variety of cutlei^, fuch ar knives, fciflTars, files, &c. befides fome red feathers, which laft were even moi'e acc^p- tabl^^han iroh. They continued to ridt the fiiip bccafionally till ihe quitted the ifland.'^ V' In the afternoon King Ottck), with hiarbhiefs and attendant^, and two young pritic^ffes his fifters,performers in the interlude of the ptcCcdihg iiighr, came on board, bringing with them fix lat'ge'hbgs, with a proportionable quantity Of frutts of various kinds. They weiie entertained as ufual, with a fight of all the curibfitlies on bbiili'dthe fiiips, and the young princefiTes, long- ing fotalnnoft every thing they faw, were grati- fied totheirutmofl: wi(hes»with bracelets of beads, looking- glafl*es, bits of china, artificial nofegays, and a variety of other trinkctsi, of which, they had one of a fort each, while at iht fame time the king and his chiefs amufed themfelveswith the carpenters, armourers and other artificers, employed in the repairs of the ihips, calling longing ifj^ Vii* .t •" Ca^t. GO0K»s VoYAC^r 145 liMtgtrig tfts on tht tooh and implements wttiii which they pcrfoi*i!nea their wotlt.^ -Inthisman*' lifer they paft the time till dinner was ready. Kitig Ottbo, with hiar chiefs, dined with the Captains^ the 't>tincipal officers, and Omai ifi tfie^great cabifr, ^hile the ladies were feafted ih aii apartmenilispifirated on purpbfe, and wait • td-upOn by their twrtfer^ants. During dinner, Ihe mufic,' patticulariy the b^g-pipes, with Which the Indians feemed moft delighted, con* tinued to play, and the young Mies who were Within 'hearing, though but o!f fight, could hardly refrain from dincihg th6 #hole time. After dinner the king and his nobles were pref- ftdto drink wiheiV but irroft of them having Felt its power before, declined tailing ft -, one or t\^o drank a glafs, but rcfufed to drink any inore^ When the tables were cleared, the la- dies joined the company, and then horn-pipes and country dances after the Englifli manner commenced, in whi h the young ladles joined with great good humour. Sbmejoviil fongs Suc- ceeded, and our Indian vifitory took leave iii the evening in great good humour. " " •^ What contributed not a little to inCreafe the pleafure of the king, was a prcfent made him by Capt. Cook, of alllrge quantity of the clioi- ccft red feathers that could be purchaftd in ;. the idands of Amfterdam. Red feathers, ai has already been obferved, are held in the liighcft eftimatibii in Otaheite, and in all the - -•- focicty I. pi 'm'i i ■ • \ '^'V 1: i;,! :i» . i* ,-l I » kf if' k ^i ) - 14$ CaPT. ,C O O H ' ^ ^OYAQ^.j cbie^ o£ ^ fqriner iOaiirit ;l;>y whom ({1^ lir^ uffd ts^ am^]j^^9 ^ cachf r M pEopUlf^if^f to make t^eir prayers acqepi^ji^le ^).c|yq ^99^ Ipirk whom they rnyol^e wi^hifufcspf tl^p^i^^ay fhers in their^bai^s, rna^e ^p i^, a pecul^r ^^^7 ner, and heici u)..a certain pf>f^^pQ with .qc)|i(^ ieeming iblemntty« The f^^.fi\^^f forits'.of ,rf4 feathers were cqlleded by.^^qer^ and rnfn.al| pver tiie l^'riendly Idandf i i>Mf thofe thac;:^fe;rf pow prefentcd to king OttOjp wer^ qf^.^fypf^ rior kind» >nd were ip vali^ ^ Qiuqh ai^QVi^ the ordinary red feathers^^ ^ r^a) pearjs ^reifl value above French palle«, . They were takei^ from the heads of the pafoquc^s of T9nga t^« boo and £a-oo whe, which ^re of fuperl^tive. beauty, and precious in proportion to their finenefs and ti^e vivid glow of their dazzling colours. Here we learnt that Cape. Cook» in his former voyage, being in great di(^reis for prant of freih provifions, and being plentifully fiipplied t|y lung Ottoo, promiied that if h^ ever (hould return to Otaherte, he would m^I^ him richer in euravme Iprecious feathers.} than all the princes in the neighbouring i^es. This gave rile to an opinion, that it was to fulr fil this promife that we were led fo far out of our way as has been already remarked, fiat there is much more rcaibn to cjnciudc^ thu. the (Irong eaderly winds that prevailed when we approached the fouthern tropic made our ' Capt. C O OJC' s Voyaoe. 147: dlpe£b courfe to OiahfUtt impra&icablew H^. Ca{>c. Cook regarded his- promife to Ottooas, iiiyiolA^v h^ would mo^ certainly kxvt (baped . hfs cquric from New. Zetlaud to thf Ij^riendly > lilad^a the near^fi: way., which would have fhoft^fwrd: oMr voyagf fev^r^l months | unlelt wo can luppofe that k^, k'4 forgo(^9 hi& pro- iQf^i] and ihit whcQ heicamc within '^ few days fail of hif dtltiiiedport, he recoUedf d hkfifdft and then changed hit dlredion, to enable him to, Heep his word. To which ^f thcfe, caufes it was^ingk fome futui^ publicationa iBjay pro* bably give light •, but to us who were not ia the ferret* it appeared a Diyftery. We were, ^vattced fome degri^ea to the eaftward of Her* veyVIfles, which ii^ .in 19 deg« iS fninvS* iat«, and tot £; long, before we altered our courfe to thd weft ward to make for AmfterdanDi which lies in ft.tdeg. 15 nnn< S» and I $.5 dei;^ £< long. whereas the ifland of Ulitea« of which Omai was ^ 'iwtiTe^ laiy vi^\a$t.i6 de§. 45^^ min. and b6g. zot deg. 35 min* £». Why: o^r courle to the former waa pr(fffirred beljo^ the latter^ involvea the taySkery^h y^ .*"f^^ nnA f, Though a) 1 publiifc urade was prohibited,as ^as ufuaWtill the fliijps Ihouldbe furniftied wi;;h frefh provvTions; it was.nQt^e<^(y co reftrain the men on §)ore from trading with the women, who were ior ever enticing them to dciert. The ladies of pleafure in, London have not half the wiiininig ways that are pradtifed by the Otahei- i' i „ ftSVt tean If >N- lU t' s i4t Capt. C O O K -s Voya6«. ^ tean miffes to allure their gallants. With ttte ieemtn^ innocence of doves they mingle ^be wilyne^ 6f ferpents. They have howeter one quality which is peculiar to themfcl ves, ind that. is con(hincy; When oii6c'tht*y • ha Ve nriadc their choice, it muft be owing to thcfailOr hiMfelf if his mrftrels ever proves ftMe to'him. , No wo- men apbfi earth are 'mbre- fsiihfuU < 'They will ehdeavottf to make thfemfel ves miftfedes of all their lovers pofl^fti but they will^mifer BO one clfe to invade their property^' .lOr will they embezzle any part 0# it themitheld; for they are inceffaatiii their irtiportunities, and wilt never nceafe aflcing while the failor has^ a rag 'or a nail to heftbw/ <; < / During our four months itay at this and the neighbouring iQands, therenwas hardly a (ailor on boar^ that had not made a very near. con«* ne£bion with one or other of the women of this Uland } nor indeed many oliicersi that wereiproof againft the allurements of ^the better Ibf t, who! were no lefs amorous and at tful, though ^re referved, than thofe of thejttferior order*v';>/ni ^ The temperature of the cliffiate, the plenty of frefhr proviOons, |i(h, fowl, pork, bread- fruit, yams, (4 kind of fweet potatoes, which they have the art of dewing with their pork in a very fitVoiury manner) added to the mbft deli- cious friuts of theifland, contributed tioc^ little 10 make our itay here n6t only tolerabile, but '' ' even Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 149 even deHrabie » nOr did idlenefs get poiieffioa even of thofc who were moft indolently nclined* We had r.ot a vacant hour between bufinels and pleafure that was unemployed. We wanted no coffee- houfes to kill time; nor Ranelaghs or Vauxhalls for our evening entertainments. £• very nightly a(it:mbly in the plantations of this happy iQe is furnilhed by beneficent nature with a more luxurious feaft than all the dainties of the moH; fumptuous champetre, though la- vilhed with unlimited profufioo, and embla- zoned with the moft expenlive decorations of art. Ten thoufand lamps, combined and ranged in the moft advantageous order by the hands of the beft artift, appear faint, when compared with the brilliant ftars of heaven that unite their fplendor to illuminate the groves, the lawns, the ftreams of Oparree. In thefe elilian fields immortality alone is wanting to the enjoyment of all thofe pleafures which the poet's fancy has conferred on the (hades of departed heroes as the higheft rewards of heroic virtue, c nj h- ^ ri But amidft fo many delights it was not for human nature to fubfift long without fatiety. Our Teamen began to be licentious, and our offi- cers to be pundilious. Several of the former werefeverely puniftied for indecency in furpalTing the vice of the natives by their fliamelels man- ner of indulging their fenfual appetites i and two of the latter went afbore to terminate an affair of honour by the decifion of their piftols. •".''nui- it I I 1 i ,1' ' ,i ^l|^' ■ 'I i I :i;; it" I i - k 1 \>: . i)\. ' I ' 'ii 5, i 150 Capt. COOJC'* VoYAOi. )t kippeacd that neithet of them were dextrout inarkfRMn j they vented their rage by the fury with which they began che attack, and after difcharging three balls each, they returned on board without any hurt except fpoiling a bar. n ball having pierced it, amd grazed upon the head of him who wore it. It was however re« marked, that th«(e gentlemen were better friendfli than ever during the remaining part of the voyage. WhHe thefe things went on by way of amuie* mcnt to fome, others wtfre more ufefully em- ployed in the repairs of the (hip. The maft that was (battered in the head, and carried afhore to be repaired, was m a (hort time rendered more firm than ever \ the lails that had been ijplit, and were other wife rendered unlic for further ifervicc, were leplacpd : the cordage carefully exttmined, the ma(ts new rigged, and infii(>rc tht whole repairs compkced with more celerity and ftrength than could have been ex-* pedted in a place where many conveniences were Wanting to Ht us out for that part of our voy- age which dill remained to be performed, n^ ! For this pi^rpofe repairs were not more ne- eeffary for our equipment than provifions. The purveyors, therefore, and butchers were incef* iantly employed in purchaHng and killing hogs for prefent ufe, and the falters in falting the overplus for future (lores, while the Captains Mid iuperior ol&cers were deviring new amuie- -^ » mcnts C4*T* COOK'S Voy «; i>i ments te iuep the lung and his chiefs in good humouf) in oraval review, which was exhibited by Towha, the great ad« miral, Omai had the command of one diviifioii of the fleet, while king Ottoo commanded a- nother dirifion, and Towha the cencrew The great dexterity appeared in their arrangemenci to land, where the military exercifes were chiefiy carried on *, one party endeavouring to fupplanc the other, in order to get pofTeifion of the mod advantageous ground. In thefe manoeuvres, Omai acquitted himfclf with tolerable applaufe, being well fupported in all his exercises by Capt. Cook, who played him oft as a prodigf of genius, in honour of Pretanoe, where, n was given out, his talents had been much im« proved* c;' •'■"* ^•^"t^^g■t ^i\(jm.u»i^L.. During 1 * r ivh * < It'' ' -I, t.-i ■■.'i' ■ ; 1 ■ t n^ ■M M u jr.: } 15a Capt. COOK'S VovAoif During our ftjiy, there WM( * far-out flf :»«^m tual war, and the forces of (he^iQij^ivdi. bp;h 1^/ ! fea and land, were called fortjb in earne(l, .to»i bp in reacjinctai to embark lOO ;the (irft notiee. All trade was now flopped; no cocoa-nuts t^i be had, the n)i}k of which was;:tjie only U(|vprii> except wat^r, which the (hi p*$ company {were allowed to drink, and the weather being, eso*; ceilive hpt, there was grpat murmuring aq:K>ng the men both on board and on (horc. Captain Cook was under the neceflity of interceding, with king Ottoo to renew; trade. W:hefbeci peace, w^ made, or only a truce for a (bprt > time, is not certain, but in a &w days tbe war<< riors difperfed, and ev^ry thing went on again, after the ufual manner. ^i \ -iM* '?^ r a- A'::h\^ On the above rumour, it w;as computed th^^ near 300 war canoes were muftered in Matc^vai bay, with ftages on each, on whjch iatffoni ihree to fix chiefs in their warlike dreffesj which feemed calculated rather for (hew than ufe fin. l>attle. On their heads were large turbans^ wound round in many folds, and oyer th^ac, 4k monftrous helmet i and on their bodies, inde^ of the light airy drefs wprn in com moo, fhey^ were incumbered by many g^rmcnfso/ their, own cloth, which added indeed to their (^acure^, but which muil difable them to exerc their. (Irength in the day of battle. Men of fertile imagination, fond of tracing the analogy, of antient cuftoms, among the different nations y-:rj of -- t) /*!'»*'! Capt. cook's Voyage. 153 of the world, might poITibly difcover fome fi- milarity between thefe cumbrous drefles, and thofe of the knights of ancient chivalry, who fought in armour. It is certain that the Ota- heicean who fights on foot mud feel the fame encumbrance from his heavy war-drefs, as the antient knight, who fought on horfeback, mud have done from his unweildy armour; and there is no doubt but the former will, one time or other, be laid afide in the tropical iiles, as much as the latter is now in every other part of the world. ^ . v .*. ^ - Before we left Mattavai, Oedidee, who made the voyage to the fouthward with Capt. Cook, in his former voyage for the difcovery of a fouthern continent, came to pay his refpedts to his patron and friend. He brought with him a wife whom he had lately married, which dif- credits the notion that was univerfally believed by former voyagers, that thofe who belonged to the fociety of Areoys were fworn to celibacy. Either this man was an impoftor or the fadt juft mentioned cannot be true. He appeared in a rich Engliih drefs, which had been fent him as a prefent from England, perhaps from the , Admiralty. He was joyfully received by Capt. Cook, and had much refped paid him. Soon, after his arrival, fire-works of a new device were played ofi^, before many thoufands of the na« tives \ but it was eafy to remark, that they were not all equally delighted with the exhibitio:i. ^ O * Tht 1 ' , 1 t ; 1* 1 « 4 \ ir 1 .i .- ! t Km I I *' M\ ii. m§ti ; > !fi ':t Um 154 Capt. cook* 9 Voyacm: The Gomnioa people were thrown into the utmoO: confteFDation at the ftorm of thond'er aod lighteaingywhich aknoft inttantly fucceeded. Nor wece the/ e^er perfectly reeoneited to us afterwards. They thought it pfeAsmption' in us to pi!ovoke the Etwas, by imitatiflg their po-wersts and many oi them redsed' to the woods^ and nevec returned again to their houfes dliring our ftay. Whether they really wifhed us to be gone, or dceaded our flay, an alarm was foon after fpread, that four European (hips were arrived at Oaite Piha } that they had landed fome men there, and were taking in refrefhments to ena> ble them to proceed. This report was every -where circulated ; and whether Capt. Cook believed it, or only made it a pretence to quicken our activity, he gave inftant orders to clear the decks, mount the guns, which lay as it were buried in the hold, and to get every thing in readinefs for adion. In the mean time he fent Mr. Williamfon, 3d. Lieutenant, in the great cutter, manned and armed, to learn the truth of the report, by looking into the harbour of Oaite Piha, to fee if any foreign (hips were at anchor there, or whether the* whole rumour was a fiftion. That gentleman executed his com- miflfion with grrat celerity •, and in little more than two days, twice doubled Point Venus, fail- ed more than 300 miles, made the harbour he was fent to examinei and brought word that the • ^ ' only to the ceded* i taus tion* in g their to the ' hoores e gone, Dn after ; arrived )me men s to ena> ^as every 5t. Cook ) quicken clear the GApt; CabK'i VoVaoe. 1^5 oMf ^^tJrtds for the report were, that four large trading canoes from ao adjacefit ifle, had bien tSere a few d'ays before his arrivaT, but tliat they faifed agaTn imthediitely, having bccni tdtally dlfi'^p6ihted^ of a piarket. . Thbti'gfr we were now relieved from ihe apt pifehenlibhs of ain attack, we were notfufered, to rchi ui bur preparations to depart^ Wbo'cl anH watW had ^riidy been takf^ on BdaVA, afrd as nl\kch prbvifibififs ai eoiAd bt ^Vbcuiretl'; aiWlittl^ T^ilitied tb' be dorri, ej^cc^pt to'rtffti- bark dbr liVe-ft^dk; tf6 ftrikle, to bring in their hogs WhiW it Wa§ yet in our power to receive them. Ko p^b[ilij oh earth dould'expr'els their grati- tilde Willi' more l^^ing nnccrity, than the king and his chiefs for the prefents they hal O 2 received % h .'!' m-'A' % fpT'' 1 r'i' is' '1 ' dt:' U^. "> 156 Capt. GOOK's Voyage. received •, nor were our commanders ,4nd oSH^ , cers wanting in fultable returns. ~ . r On the 28th, having now been jufl: 40 days ; on the iQandy king Ottoo came on board, to iiivite our commanders with their officers* to Oparree, ,as he underAood it was to be the lad time that he (hoiild have the opportunity of paying us his acknowledgements on (hore. On the 29th, the pinnaces were ordered oue> and we proceeded to Oparree, in the fame date as on our Jfirft vifit. At the landing-place we were received with uncommon marks of frienci- (hip. Every chief in that part of the ifland of which Ottoo was the Earee-da-hai or Lord paramount, to the number of 500 and more, attended, and condudled us to the king's houfe or palace, where a fumptuous banquet was provided, and after dinner a more numerous and brilliant company of performers alTembled at the theatre for our entertainment, than we had ever feen on any ftage in the tropical idands r>r«»« f »'V^' i »^M • .n«i A; Afl I before. There is a famenefs in their drama, that admits of little or no variation, as perhaps to foreigners, who are unacquainted with the language and manners of a country, there may appear to be in every (laj/e- exhibition, wherever performed. Be that as it may. The dreifes on this occafion were entirely new, and by far more fliowy than formerly i the number of dancers were increafed ', ten young ladies com- n .'•; Capt. cook's Voyage; 157 pofcd the firft group, with their heads moft magnifkcntly ornamented with beads, red fea- thers, (hells of the mofl: beautiful colours, and wreathed with flowers in fo elegant a flyle, as hardly to be excelled ; had their mufic been equal to their perfornoance, this part of the ex- hibition would have been compleat. A party of warriors were next introduced, drelTed in their war-habits, connfting, as has al- ready been obferved, of different coloured cloth, of their own manufaflure, fo ingenioufly fa- ihioned and blended together with fo much art, as, with the helmets that cover their heads, to fill the ftage with men, of whofe majeflic figure it is not eafy to convey an idea. Thefe were armed with fpears, lances, and battle-axes, and exhibited all the forms of attack and defence which are pradliced in real adlion. The prin- cipal performers were the king's brother and a chief of gigantic ftature, who difplayed fuch wonderful grimaces and diflortions of face and countenance, by way of provocation and chal- lenge, as were not only laughable in fome atti- tudes, but terrible in others. Afcer thefe dif- appeared,the players were brought forward, and performed a more ferious piece than we had yet feen, at which the natives fat graver and more compofed than ufual. And the whole perform- ance concluded with a dance of ten boys, drefl: in every refpcdt li|ce the girls in the firft fccnc, with their hair flowing in ringlets down their O 3 fhouldersft I: •! .^, ;( : . -it': ■ y :>*' ,'♦? » 158 CaPT; COOK'S VoYAttE: ihouIderS) and their heads ornamented in a very theatrical ftyle. ' < '• *, ^ --- ' When the play was over we returned to our boats, attended by the whole aflcmbly, who accompanied us to the water*fid6, whtre the king took, a moflr affedlibnate leave. On the 2Qth Capt.Cook ordered ^11 the won^cn to be put on (hore, which was a tafk not eafily ef- fcfted, moft of them being very lot/i tp depart; nor was it of much confequence, as they found means afterwards to follow us to Hueheirie, UHt^a, and the other fociety ides; nor did they kave us till our final departure on oi^r northern difcoveries, never more to return. Several of the failors being very defirous to ftay at Otaheite, king Ottoo intereftcd hini- tt\i in their behalf, and endeavoui^fd \o preyail on Capt. Cook to grant th^ir re^uefti but he peremptorily rcjedted every application of that 1; ind though often repeated *, nor would he fuf- fer any of the native^ to enter on bo^rd though many would gladly have accompanied us Nvhere- cver we intended to fail, and that top after they were aflured that we never intended to vifit their country any more. Some of the women too would have followed their Fhoonoas,orPrctanne hulbands, could ihey have been permitted j but Capt. Cook was equally averle to the taking any of the natives aw^y, as to the leaving any of his own people behind. He was fcnfible, that when once cloyed with enjoyment, they '^ would ., ...lilt .i n v; UZ ii Capt. C OOK*« YoYAO«t t59 wouid reciprocail3r pine for home, to which ic would nof: be in their power to return ; and that for a little prefent gratification, they would rifque the happinefs of the remaining part of their lives. ^ '" ••■■ '•"■'■ '•'^^- -•'• -'^'' - King Ottoo, when he found he could not ob-^' fain his wifhcs, in this refpeft, applied to Capt. Cook for Another favour, which Was, td allov^ his carpenters to make him a cheft, or prefs, td fecure the treafures he had accumulated in prefents, and by way of traffic, from the Eu- ropean voyagers. He^ert bcggdd a b^d to be placed in it, where he intended to fleep. Thij Gaipt. Cook readily gfantcyv ^"^^ v^Hile the workmen were emplo^d An this fervrce they were plentifully ftjpplied with barbtctred hogs, and fuch dainties as the coufitry aBdrd^^, iHid were fo earefoUy attencfed and pr6tefte.d, that they did not lofe fa much as a finale nail. It was fome of thefc wc^kiticn^ that Ottoo was fa defirous to retain ; but th^fe were of too mudh confcquence on board to be parted w'ith, htld there been no other motive for bringing them away; nor was Ottoo much concerned ab6uc the departure of the reft. While the carpenters were bufied in making this uncommon piece of furniture, king Octoo was conftant in attending their operations, and Omai had frequent conferences with him on the fubjed of his travels. He aftonilhed him more O 4 by l^J-^ 'J ' i ! 'V'A w U ' n 1 .S' f: '^/^ i 1 160 Capt. COOK'S Voyage: by the relation he gave of the magnificence o the Morais in Pretannet than by all the won- ders he had before furpriztrd him. When he told him that the king's morai was open to &11 comers, and that the per fans of the deceafed kings were to be feen as perfect to appearance as when in the vigour of youth,, he Teemed to lament that his date of exiflence was to be limi- ted with his lifei and that his remains were to pcrilh, while his Morai prcferved no memo- ry, that he had ever had a being. Omai en- deavoured to imprefs him with an idea of the magnificence of the tombs and memorials of the dead that were to be feen in the Morais of Pretanne ; but having nothing to compare them to, he was unable to make himlelf fufBciently underftood 1 nor was he more fuccefsful in de- fcribine the folemn grandeur of the places of worfhip where the people aflembled every fe- venth day and at other dated times, to offer up their prayers to the good fpirit. Of the Iplendour of the theatres he could fpeak more intelligibly, as fome faint idea of them might be gathered from what had been exhibited on board the (hips, and in the illuminations and fire- works played off on fhore. When Omai told him of the magnitude of the palaces and houfes in Pretanne, of their decorations and furniture; of the extent of their plantations, and the multitude of living animals with which they were flored, he liflened to him with particular Capt. COOK'S VOYAGEi; l6l particular attention, as not doubting the truth of his relation ; but when he began to defcribe the roads and the rapidity with which the people travelled in carriages drawn by four footed ani- mals, no child could ever exprefs greater fur- prize at Gulliver's travelling to the world of the moon on ganzas, than Ottoo, when Omar afTured him, they could traverfe an extent of ground equal to the whole length of the iflaniS of Otaheite, in a fingle day. u-iu.v :. *.v.;j u ' ' The king, as appeared by his gentfrbfity to Omai, was highly entertained by ths'ilory of his travels -, for when he went to take leave, hit majefty prefented him with a double canoe, pro- perly equipped and manned, in the room of that which he purchafed at New Zealand. Every preparation for failing being alreadf compieated, the live flock all on board except two cows and a bull, two ewes and a ram, two ihe-goats and two geefe, which were left as prelents to king Ottoo, ci bmiu wmi bna ^ On the 29ch both (hips were under fail, dt- . redling their courfe to the weftward to Emoa and Hueheine, accompanied by Omai in his Otaheitean veflel, with his two New Zealand youths on board, who difcovered no uneafinefs at their prefcnt fuuation, nor any defire to re- turn home. i.>r.,, ,. { y:.; raa ; rrf J, The ifland of Otaheite has already been fo often and fo accurately defciibed, and the man- ners, cudomsy and ways of living of the inha^ ^ < . bitant^ ) '! / I", i ' * 1^'" '1 .'<:.- -ih jillii. :iff'. & !l i^^ C-A?lFf-CPPIf^}VoyAGf; ^?apP? fP apg^y f^nlarjge^ upon by fojfpperypjTf r(ep^eCp^e4,, apfi ^h^ o|if r vf f y pipfeirly rp lapq^i # firftr/B^^^he fQf^ty9t^fr^oys»5omps*il^ i|j9njWi:^9^a$f4 io I|ev4w&, and fo »t^n49^4 19hlHi%Bfe§^ :i^w?>anijy, as 19 4cftrpy th^ i&m of their libidinous ini9r(»Mr^ i thm which no* ^ii^iii^¥JI4 )>« mQEf ii^urioA^A to ttic ch^A<|ers 9^ ^«Qr*i>ti99l9>lhAn; thU dtaboHfal praiflicfi af^ tfJM Ifttbit focicty, . rsr . liHeiv are ioi this and the &.«)joiiiiog iflarids j^rioA&of.aniiddle raok beti^een thi9 Manat hounaiQC Yeomen and th«£arec«> who having 1^ CGUDcepin t)ie goYernment, nor any di^lndfc pvopoeity in the iflaAds, afibciatc t«jg^hffr for their own attiuleineiit^ and the eoccrtaimnent of tbte public. Irbcib tcaiEeFfrom pbce to pU«e, and from idand to ifland, io companies, not unr like thofeof the ftroUing players^ in finglklid, •nly that they perform without pay v bt^t that they cohabit irvdifcrimin^cely one witk anotbes; fo niany moh with fa many women^in comnuiQ^ is AO otlyenwife true, than the iame may be h£^ peeled among the (Vro Iking companies jufll metw tioned ^ nor are they under any other reftraints from marrying, than that the fociety admits of no marriages among themfelves, nor of any tnarried people to be of their fociety, it being a rule tanr.' - f'v. '.•r' i'.- i^ ,■ f ■ ■' *^:-, f * fv-"¥- V ' \ < »> '' ■-^v^^-,f '■■>;; ■*, - 1 ?,-. ,/ . ',''">•*.■,'' ri fH ••;S:; '""^f ?.' ■,<*?'■ ^•'' » Jing 1 h I s> 1 ^ 'i I I Capt, P99ic> yovAfi.E* Iff a rul^. .w|5^ ^hem J nev^e^. f o b»? ^n^ f^ijnbc«?4 fwkh there, as many unfortunate girls do hefgf ; l^y %^ »t being. ^.qq^^^y: ^{^t^ix^ffyl^^Qj^^y} ^fc^ /lakflli^ ^Tff ojs^: as it 1| fprj j8fflff|?^9 liff^^ji^^^ ^lmmi> 'f^^kk^'^^^Cl^'i: i-:5W ban. -/^vo&uA ' The bther fadl, >vb^l^^he My^fi^r. t^^ p^y^j tp ^etfrmine, \?^S| ijwbcthf r jtjjf lae^li^guftcvn ifpp^t?(f . tjOj theq^ pf-gca^i/yjgg 4iteir£,pftjiqa5i* gro^e^ ipolicans aAd Malteie, which DO||;hc Bot to be forgoccim, .and tjiat s^ therr i^ in thk ntghtand repofing themfelves in thiday I like theii^ ioo; they bum t^ches #htle thcjt'fiffii. ' which tlJey^-^niitke of the oil drawii IVoni the^ cocoa-nut.'; v"", • •^';---- -g » Oft the W^^ ^e IconHh'oed our cotiife^tBi^ ' whole xla^y', '^^hder dobble-reefed tpp-fails ; ipd in the t^ikii tsLttie fh JSght ofi^e linte fQanc^' of Efnd4 ii4^ we ahcHdred next day in ia fafe' barboor, and were recei ved by the p/^ ( ''W r m 1 ■ ■ Capt. COOK^s Voyage. iSg weight for twelve red feathers, and fo in pro« portion. But this friendly iittercourfe was foon chan- ged to a fcene of defoliation tiiat no injury we could receive from the pilfering difpofition of the inliabttants could jaftify. The people had brought ut every thing their ifland afforded, and had left it to the generofity of the pur- chafers to give, in return, whatever they pleaf- ed ; but unfortunately rijii-i-vi.; ^ On the 2d of Odober, a goat was miffing from the live-ftock^ It had been fecretly con- veyed away in the night, from the paftures on which they were placed to feed, notwith-^ (landing the vigilance of the guard appointed' to*>look after them. With the lofs of this ani-- mal, which no doubt was looked upon as a prize to the thief, the Earee of the ifland was made acquainted by Capt. Cook, and a pre- remptory requifition made to have it refh>red» 01^ pain ot having his country laid wafte, his (hipping deftroyed, and himfelf perfonally pu- ai(hed for the crime of his fubjeft. The king promifed his affidance, and required time for enquiry, but as foon as he was at liberty he abfconded, and was no more fcen \ and the goat being (lill miffing, and no means ufed for recovering and refloring it, a party front both (hips, with the marines in a body, werf ordered out, to carry the threats of our com* tnander into execucion. For three days fuc* "» ^ ccflively M I I , 1 1 "f '; 1.4 M ( ■i .ti.- --k- ,. ff 1 h 1 f. f »!-■ 1 1 .1! ► '.. fe.i. ': '*!!' . i66 Capt, C O O K's Voyage; ceffiyply, . they continuecj -. th,tiir, « dev^ft^Wer port^-holes were left open, for the rats to makfc their ef* cape } in (horr, a thorough revifion was directed to be made of every thing on board, as w^H to cleanfe the furniture from the vermin, as to remove the danger of iniedion from putrid air, generated by a perpetual fucceinon of muU titudes in clofe refort between decks ever frnce our arrival at Otaheite. The fick were at the fame time landed for the beneBc of the air, and every means ufed to recover, and to pre- ferve them in health, when recovered. - Among the fick was Capt. Cuok himielf, for whofe recovery the crews of both fhtps were under much concern, as the fuccefsof the voy- age was thought in a great meafure to depend upon his care and conduct. By the doflor's ad- vice, he was prevailed upon to fleep on (hore i where he was afliduoufly attended night and day by the furgeons of both (hips, who alter- nately watched with him, till he was out of danger. As foon as he was able, he rode out every day with Omai on horfeback, followed by multitudes of the natives, who, attradted by the novelty of the fight, flocked from the remoteH parts of the iQand, to be fpe^ators. In '1 'V snts rnU net ffith [)pC- iok9 r cf- cdlcd •Mio as to utrid mul- ftnce at the ic air, :opre- imfelf, ^ were fc voy- Icpctid it's ad- I (bore ', It and alter- lout of Ide out illowed trafted )m the iators. In Capt. cook's Voyage. 171 Iri the mean time, the (hips were crouded with hogs^ poured in upon us fader than the but- chers and falters could difpatch them ; for fe- deral days after our arrival, fome hundreds great and fmall were brought on board, and if any were refufed, they were thrown into the boats and left behind. Bread«fruit, banahoes, plantains, cocoa-nuts and yams were brought in the fame plentiful proportions, and purchafed for triBes. Red feathers were here, as at Ota- heite, a very marketable commodity, with which the feamen made purchafes of cloth, and other manufactures of the idand •, thofe of them, who were followed by their mifles from Otaheite, kept feparate tables for them, at a fmall expence ; the miiTcrs catered and cooked for their mates, who fcaftcd every day on bar- biqued pigs, ftewcd fowls, roaftcd bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a variety of other delicacies, which were purchafed for them for the me- reft trifles. Among the common men, there were many who laid in (lore of thefe good things for their future fnpport in cafe of being reduced to (hort allowance, and they had rea- fon afterwards to confole themfdves on their provident care. . . . The example made of the firft Indian thief, by expofmg him to the ridicule of his country- men, had a better etfed than a thoufand ia(h- ings, which were forgotten almolt as foon a^ infiifled i whereas the laughable figure the fcl- P 2 low (^; ;|;'*- ;■ «( f AM I! . f I J y an m ■ \ ■ ■ V- I ;1M m 'a^^^^ W' ■' '^«^^^^^"' li li |i'|M^Hh^ iffll ' :|^MK| 'li ' 'SHI i. iBm 1; 172 Capt. cook's Voyage.' low made with one ear ofF, and half the h^ir of his head (liaved, was, a perpetual puni(h- ment, which it was not in his power to con^ ceal. By this feafonable fcverity and the vigi" lance of the officers, whom the king had ap- pointed to fuperintend the police, we continued unmolclted for feveral days. On our fird approaching the idand we cad anchor till the ground for mooring (hould be examined, and in weighing, to change our (la- tion, our cable parted, and we were obliged to leave the anchor behind. This proved atrou- blefome bufinefs, in which we were afliftcd by the adlivity of the natives, who, at fervices of this kind, are very alert. By diving, and pro- perly fixing ropes, they helped us to recover our anchor in a few hours, which we had la- boured at, in vain, for feveral days. "' * ' The carpenters and caulkers had no fooner compleated their bufinefs on board, than they were ordered on fliore to ered a houfe for Omai, who had been enabled, by the generofity of Capt. Cook, and his other friends, to purchafe a fmall eftate for a plantation, in the culiiva- tion of which he was to proceed after the En- glirti manner, and to employ his two New- Zealanders as labourers in digging, and pre- paring the ground. The ereftion of a houfe of pretty large di- menfionsjwith ftable and out-offices (appendages ncw,and hitherto unneceflary in this country)was Capt. COOK'S VoYAGB. 173 a work of nofmall labour,and could not beaccom- phihed in any reafonable time, without the afrif- tance of many hands ; the carpenters, and a number of labourers from both fhips were therefore fet to work, and though a watch was placed to look after their working-tools, the vigilance of Argos, with his hundred eyes, would have been infuHicient to have guarded ibch a valuable treafure from fo many crafty Jafons, as daily attended the workmen with a view to carry off fome part of the golden prize. It happened, however, that a few chifTels, gim- blets, and other triHes were all that were milling ; for as no nails or iron were to be ufed in the con* ftrudlion of the buildings* the fiws, axes, adzes^ and larger tools were not fo eafy for them to con- ceal i while therefore the chief attention of the centinels were Bxed upon thefe, an Indian found means to cany off a quadrant from the aftro- nomer's obfervatory •, and though it was almolt inllantly mifTed, and the thief difcovered, and fired at while he was yet in fight, he found means to efcape to the woods, where he con- cealed his booty, notwithllanding the mod vi- gilant fearch. At the firing of the gun, and the buftlc that fucceeded among the Indians who were in crowds about the tents, the marines on board took the alarm, and putting themfelves in arms haftened on (hore, where they found- all quiet, the thief having been found and brought in, by fome of his companions, who P 3 were t \ r f \ t ■ {.!: .) •; .■ * 1 I, i * * _ ' ^ .|; iflH|'i i r < 1 \\ f I lHk<< I .1 i ^^B:'| Ft '1 t>')j = r. r' - 174 Capt. COOK'S VoYAOi. well rewarded for their fidelity. The fcWowr was inftancly taken on board and put in irons, vrhere he remained all night. In the morning it appeared he was of fome note, as a number of hogs, and great quantities of fruit and cloth were broiJght on board, to purchafe his releafe { but without eflfeft. About noon he was brought to trial, and fentenced to fufibr the lofs of both his ears, befides having his head (haved, and his eye-brows fleed, than which, no pumfli* ment could have fubje^ted him to greater dif- grace. In this bleeding condition he was fent on (hore, and expofed, as a fpedlacle to inti« midate the people from meddling with what was not their own } at the fame time they were given to underftand that theft, among us, was confidered as a capital crime. The Indians look'd with horror upon the man, and it was eafy to perceive, that this afl: gave them gene- ral difgufti even Omai was affcdcd, though he endeavoured to juftify it to his Indian friends, by telling them, that if fuch a crime had been committed in the country where he had been, the thief would have been condemned to lofe his life. How well foever he might carry the matter off, he dreaded the confequences to himfelf, which, in part, appeared before we I eft the idand, and were probably more feverely felt by him, foon after we were gone. How- ever King Oreo and the chiefs about him ftiU continued to keep up appearances -, they paid and Cmht. COOK'S Voyage, x;5 sind rec«iN^«d vifits as ufual, made prefcnts, and jiccepced returns, and fuffered trade to go on between ciu: inhabitants of the tfland and the iiips companies, as if no oflfence had been gi- ven. At all their i«afts and entercainments the Captains and Omai were invited to be guefts^ and plays and fireworks fucceeded each othtr^ by way of political Bnefle, to promote harmony* Im the mean time, another theft Was committed at the fame place. Mr. King^ tht aftronomer was robbed of his brandv-cafr, fome plates* and fooie knives and forks, which be aever recovered *, but his quadrant was brought back in a few days after it was ftokfit though ''€iy much damaged* ' ^^•v ^^ '"■■'■'• ' '''" '^' " On this occaHon, trade wasag;U'f :; lerruptedj, the Indians dreading to come to market when any of their people had been guilty of any fraud. Capt. Cook, though he rode out every day, attended by Omai, ilill continued in a very weak condition i but was vilited, and had great attention paid him by the chiefs *, be rea- foned with Oreo on th^ ^hfurd cuftomof fuf- pending trade, whenever i^ay of his people had done us an injury, reprefented the practice as equally hurtful to thtrn as to us, and that, tho* the delinquent was liable to punifhment, no other perfjn would ever be molefted, unlefs the courfe of juftice was interrupted, by refuling to deliver up the criminal, when deleted. This P 4 rcafon* ■ ! ■» ■i V' ii >■■ M: ii I76 Capt. ^C P O K*s Voyags; Ireafoning had its weight with Oreo and his chiefs, who ordered the trade to be renewed as before. We had now been in harbour,in Q*-whar-. re rpad>Jn Hueheine nipre than thirty days,when Qmai's buildings w«re quite compleated,and he had got all his effects and furniture on ihore, the European feeds, with which Capt. Cook had furnifhed him, fown, and part of his grounds planted with the fruit and other trees ot the country, in all which he was afGfted with every fparc hand from both fhips* i- ! x^ic'i i w ' Ofte would have imagined that, feeing hlttt- felf apparently the grieateft marv in the ifland, ind poffeflcd of much the fincfl houfe, he would have been elated with his fituation, and overjoyed at being fo happily placed •, but quite the rcVcrfej thi nearer the time approached 0/ bur departure, the more dtjccled he grew, and when he made an entertainment at taking pol- fcflion of his new fettlemtSit, at which he was honoured with the company of the command- ers and officers from both (hips, and with the King and chiefs of the ifland, he could fcarce conceal his trouble, being apprchenfive, as he told Capt. Clarke fecretly, that as foon as we ' vere failed, they would level his buildings with the ground, and make prize of all that he pof- ftflld. Upon this occafion, however. Captain Cook, who had all along treated him more like a fon than a paflfenger, and who was now pretty well recovered, being acquainted with the caufe of i' Capt* C O ok* s Voyaoe. lyf tjf-hiS; melancholy, embraced thi? opportuniiy^ of recommending him to the prot^^dipn ^f tj^ king: and the chidiprcfcm^.intimatjng to them,, at the fame time,.that. if any. violence (hould be, offered to Omai, or that be Ihould be molefted in the free enjoyment of his property, he would, upon the ircturn of the fhips. Jay wafte tb^^ ifltud, and deftroy every hum,^*^ b^ing; thut had, in any mi^nner, been inftruo;eiHal in doina: him an injury. This :tl>ryard rituatipn» between half Englifli, and half Indian preparations^ might contribute not a little to embarrafs him \ for having never before made an entertainment himfelf, tho' he had been a partaker at many both in England and in the iflands, he wasyetac a lofs to condud himfclf properly to lo many guefts, all of them fuperior to himfclf in poinx of rank, tho' he might be faid to be fuperior, in point ot fortune, to moli of the chiefs preient^ Nothing, however, was wanting, to imprcfs the inhabitants with an opinion of Omai's con- fequcnce^ Svi um * 5-1 HI I .V [1 I r.r 178 Caw. COOJC^s Voyach. feqAience. The druim, trumpecs, bagpipes; hautboys, flutes, violins, and, in (hort, the whole band of mufic attended, and took k by turns to play while dinner was getting ready ; ind when the company were feated, the whole band joined in full concert, to the admiration of crowds of the inhabitants, who were aiTem- bled round the houfe on this occafion. The dinner confifted, as ufual, of barbicued hogs, fowls varioufly drefled, fome after the manner of the country, and others after the Hnglilh niann^r, with plenty of other provifions, and wine and other liquors, with which King Oreo made very free. Dinner over, hcivas and fire- works fuccecded, and when night approached, the multitudes that attended as fpe^ators dif- perfed without the leaft diforder. -•' ' *^ ' *- We now received orders to prepare for our departure. We had, in this ifland, proeured more than 400 hogs, many of them large. Though it had been found in former voyages, that mod of them that were carried to fea alive refufed to ear, and confequently were foon killed, yet we refolved to make one experiment nrK>re, and by procuring large quantities of yams, and other roots, on which they were accuftomed to feed on (bore, we ventured to take a few in each (hip. For this purpofe our carpenters prepared (lyes for their reception in .thofe parts where they might remain the coolcft i and while ihey Capt. CO ox? 8 VoYAOi; 179 they Wj?r^ «npk>ycd in that bufiacfs, tbc Uvc- (tock thu were ftUl on iK>re were tak«i> oa board J ii? were likcwife every wh^r artM}|c jhat; remaiiici4« 7't' ,:?••.•■<■ "^s/.,vi - ?■. -•. r: ri s!':.-;/* Nottog reo^arkable happened till the ^oth^ whe^i, lefiiy \a the tnorAiRg» we were fA^rprise^ with aii 4ceouiic, that Qo^i's plaotataoq was rooted up a^d deilroyed, Kjs fences hf^eo down, and hU Wf^ and caccki iec at large* without being abje to dlfcotfer who >yere cgnc^ri^d in this malicious and deliberate adt pC p^f^edU tated fnifchief. Capt. Qoo^y highly iu^enleds ofitr^ cQofid^rable fiqw^iids for difcQ^rifig , and apprehending the ofi^nderBi whpi^itwaa found that the feiioWk who had his h^^,i)|fv^d» and his ears cut o(f^ Yfap ^ principala landy being' a saitiire of Ulieteat an adjacent i(land» had Aed there for refuge i but Capt. Cook of- fering fix large axes* for bringing him to juf- tice» and pramifing flo (bay feven days longer* to give time to approlimd him, fome defpera- does undertook the ta(lc» and on the 4th day brought him on board. He was charged as the fole perpetrator, but it was thought he muft have had accompUces» as he could not by him- fetf, in one night, have plucked up fo many trees, deftroyed ib many plants, and dug and defaced the ground in fo many places, where the European feeds had been fown. However he refofed to make any confeflTion, and when put ia irons, remained fullen, ., j The >' .1 . ii' mm p. I -1* , * ■^ii >^'' I lij li in 180 Caft. COOX's VoYAGi: ^ This i^itpaVtttiohs fot«'cMlH' departure* which this efenf' htd fufpcndedi recbmfttert'c^ J' and, in the mean ikinftc, ixi ihcw every attention pofiible to Omai, the fpare hands from both (hips were fent afhore^in order to reftorc his plantation to its former condition* and tO rein* ftate hith'irt the quiet poffeflion of k before the (hips fhoalid fail. And to recommend him the better CO the chiefs, he was accompanied every day by Capt* Cook *nd fome of his offi^ cer*,^ w^o ^'med with hibs &nd invited King Orebi )ilM the prtneipal t>eople of the inafifd bytui»iiS;^^d be of tht'^pkrty. He alfo made entertain fhents for the young princeffes and their brothers, with muHc and dandng accor-- ding to the Englifh faOiion* and to pleaie the public in general, Capt. Cook caufed "fireworks to be played off almofl every other nighty for ' their diverfion: But 'nOtwithflanding all thisfe^ endeavours to reconeile Ohiai to his eountry* men, he e^uld not heJp thinking himfelf the objeA cff their envy* rather than of their ad- miratiorii'iThey behcW him in the fome light as the gehtfemen in evety^country fee a low-born citizen fiiddenly rifing from indigence to wealth,' giving themfcWes airs, and affefling ftate ; at the fame time that they laugh at their folly, they encourage their profufion \ and while they partake of their ent^ertainments, they take plea^ ibre in mortifying their pride. Such was the real cafe with Omai : while he was fealling '■* * the Capt. cook's Voyage. i8i the chiefs, and had nails to give to one, red feathers, to another^ ^l^fs and china-ware to a third, and white (hires to the ladies j Who but Omai? but, when he had expended in prefents mod of what he had brought from abroad, and had but juft enough left by the bounty of his friends, to buy him a plantation and to ftock it, the chiefs, while they partook of his en* tertaipments, paid him little or no refpe^t, and, had it not been for their deference to Captain Cook, would probably have treated him, amidd the fplendor of his banquets, with the utmoft contempt Such is the difpoHtion of mankind throughout the world* Men fprung from the dregs of the peoplp mud have fomething more than accidental riches to recommend them to the favour of their fellow citizens; they muft have fupe- rior fenfe to di^edt their conJu6t» and fuperiur acquirements to render the virtue they poflefs confpicuous. That this was not the cafe with Qmai, every day's experience furnilhed fufficicnt proofs. Not many nig^hts had pafled after the wade made on his plantation, before lights were feen about his houfe, which, it was fup* pofed, were intended to fet it on fire, had not the precipitancy of the centinel, by firing his piece too fuddenly, given the alarm, and fur- niflied the incendiaries with notice to make their cfcape. The man too who had laid wa^;; hi^ plantatioiii and who was in irons on board ihp Kdb- i.if II m 1 ' '1 ^f^ >■ 'I M M i8a CiiPT, COOK'i VovAOE* Refdiutionj the night btfore ^e intcftdfed to fail, found mean$ either to jump over-board, or by fome irfvinbte dfliitance ro unloofe b^^. Chains and (lip out of ttie ihip. He wsu tcf have been puhilhed, hot by death, but by a baniibment, worfe than death. He was to have been put on ihore on fome defolate iQand, from whence it would have been next to impoflible he could ever have made his efcape to moleft Omai. How he came to get from his confinement is nor pubHciy known, but the cencinel who was fet to guard him, was fcnienced to be publicly whipped, and (o receive 24 laftics every morning ''or fix mornings fucccffivclyj and Mr.H — mate, and Mr. M ^ midftiipman, who command- ed the watch were fentenced ; the firft, to be ex- pelled the ftiip, to which he never more return- ed during the voyage v the other, to be turned before the mail -, but on fubmiflTion was forgiven, as wai likewife the centinel after fuffering the fir(t day's punifhment. As foon as the mace from the Refolucion came on board the Difco- Ycry, Mr. Martin, third lieutenant, was order- ed to do duty on board the Reloiution in his room. On the 2d of November being In readinefs to fail, Capt. Cook took Omai afide, and gave him lefibns of inftrudion how to ad. At the fame time direding him to fend his boat over to Ulietea, his native iOand, to let him know ho;v the chiefs behaved to him in the ablence of the lliips. 4l' «»•. - ' I. :.' * ,j-:r^-|j finefs gave lC the ^er to how [f die Ca* T. COOK'S VoYAef:. 1 83 firips. If well, he wfs to fend by the mefien- ger three white beads ^ if they felzed upon his ftock, or broke in upon his plantation, three red beads } or if things remained juft as we left them, he was to fend three fpotted beads. In the morning of the 3d we unmoored, and the wind being fair, we made fail out of Oow- burne road, and when we were under way, O- mai came on board, either to prevail on Captr Cook to let him return to England, or to take his final leave never to fee him more. His parting was very affedting *, if tears could have prevailed on Capt« Cook to let him return, O- mat's eyes were never dry } and if the tendered applications of a dutiful fon to an obdurate fa- ther could have made any imprelTion, Omai hung round his neck in all the feeming agony of a child trying to melt the heart of a reluc- tant parent. He twined his arms round him with all the ardour of inviolable friend(hip, til] Capt. Cook, unable any longer to contain him^ felf, broke from him, and retired to his cabin, to indulge that natural fympathy which he could not refift, leaving Omai to dry up his tears, and compofe himfelf on the quarter deck. When he had vented his grief he returned and reafoned with Omai on the impropriety of his requed, reminded him of his anxieties while in England, left he (hould never more have been permitted to return home ; and now that he had been reftored to his country and friends. ac ti Capt. CO O K* s Voyage. «t an immenfe expence to his royal maftcri It W9S childiih to ehteitain a notion of being'caf- ried back. Omai ftill renewed his tears ; he had wiflied, he faidj to fee his country and ifriends ; but having feen them, he was contented, and would never long for honrie again. Capt. Cook ^flfured him of his bed wilhes, but his inftrucy tidns mud be obeyed, which were to leave him with his friends. At partings he added (Tx large axes to the prcfents he had before made him, and fome chilTels and Sheffield ware^^ which he knew woukl be ufeful to him. ^ '-*--^*^| "^ Such was the parting of Omai from his be-- loved patron, who had cohtradted a real friends fhip for him. He f^id, he (hould be the moft miferable of all human beings when his protec- tor was gone, ibr that the inhabitants would be plotting his dcfl:ru<5tIon, and he (hould not have a happy moment while he had any thing left to live upon. His two New Zealand boys were undpr little lefs concern to part from the (hip^ than Omai himfelf. They had already learned to fpeak Englifh fo as to be able to exprcfs their hopes and thtir fears. They hoped to have gone along with the (hips, and they cried bit- terly wheij they underdood that they were to be kfc behind. Thence arofe a new fcene between Omai and his boys, that, had not the officers on the quarter-deck interpofed, might have en- ded unfortunately for Omai. They refufed to am the Ihip, till they were compelled to it by forge Capt; COOK'S Voyage. 185 force, which was no eafy matter, the eldeft now near fixteen, being of an athletic make, and of prodigious ftrength, and the younged: about eleven, being likr.wife a giant for his age, were not eafily managed. They were both very trac- table and obliging, till they found they were to be left at Huakeine, but then they grew def- perate till fubdued. They difcovered difpo- fitions the very reverfe of the idanders, among whom they were deftined to abide, during the remainder of their lives; and, inftead of a mean, timid fubmifTion, they (hewed a manly, determined refolution not to be fubdued, tho' overcome ; and ready, if there had been a polTibility to fucceed, to have made a fecond or even a third attempt to have regained their liberty. We could never learn Capt. Ccok*8 real reafon, for refufing to take on board, fome of thofe gallant youths from New Zealand, who, no doubt, would have made ufeful hands in the high latitudes wc were about to explore, and would befides have exhibited living pictures of a people, whofe portraits have been imper- fedly dcpi<5ted even by our bed draughtfmen. There is a dauntlcfs fiercencfs in the eyes and countenance of a New Zealand wanior, that lofes all its force, under the feeble pencil of a fribbling artift. It is now, indeed, too late to lament the non importation of a native from every climate, where Nature had marked a vi- sible ditliridion in the chara(flefs of pcrlon and QL mind, tm If. I ,' mfi' m ii'ii M i' w :)i »v MI'S 1 86 Capt. C O O K * s Voyage. mind. As one in each climate might hayc been procured without force i when aflembled toge- ther, they would have formed an academy for the ftudy of the human figure, that would havq attracted the notice of artifts from every coun- try, more than the celebrated (latues of ***** *.— We Ihall now take our leave of Omai, with juft obferving, that Capt. Cook having furniih^d him with the means of enriching his country an;d the adjacent ides with fome of the moft ufeful generse of four- footed animals, (horfes, cows, (heepand goats) befides a breed of gecfe,turkies and other domef- tic appendages that were llrangers to the tropi- cal iflands, he may, with proper management, rife fuperior to all the Earees in the kingdoms round him, and in time make himfelf lord overall. But to proceed :•»-! ;>'!";; In the evening of the 3d of November, the day we .fet out from Hucheine, we arrived at Ulietea and were luddenly furrounded with boats laden wich provifions. Here, as ufual, w^ landed our live ftock, carried the tents alhorc, and credled the aflronomer's obfervatory. One of our firft exploits in this ifland was the aft of a centinel who was fet to watch the Iheep and the goats, and who, being infulted by fome of the natives, ran one of them through the body. The deceafed was inttantly carried off by his companions, and for a few nails, pro- •■"- - ; ' . ..» « - :. . , ; , perly Capt. cook's Voyage. 187 pcrly difpofedof, fo that we never heard any thing more of his murder. This happened ? ^ On the 6ch, when the grind done was (lolen from the Difcovery, but the thief being dc* teded; and apprehended, it- was brought back the fanne day, together with a large hog, by way of ranlbm for the pilferer. On the i6th, about two in the morning, the fentinel at the obfervatory fell afleep and fuf- fered his muiket to be carried away. He then cook it into his head to leave his pod and follow after it, with a delign, however, never more to return to the (hips. When this was known on board, orders were immediately ifTued for fecuring the King and Royal family, till the man fhould be taken and reilored, threatening at the fame time to lay wafte the country, if he was fuffercd to cfcape. It was fome days before he was difcovered, and at length he was found at the diftance of about ten miles, fitting in a lone houle, furrounded by Indians, chiefly girls, who had dripped him of his ctoaths, and difguifed him in an Indian drefs, with his head curioufly ornamented with feathers, and his mufket lying loaded by him. He made no re- fiftance, but fubmitted to come back under convoy of an officer and two marines, who had orders to (hoot him, if he attempted to ef- cape. He was put in irons, tried, and fen • tcnced to have 24 lafhes every day for a week ; but on fubmiffion was forgiven. Q 2 On i. ' (''i-'}' [I m ?i ' J' iiii I'll ■ip If 188 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. On the 23d, Mr. M — — , "i/:d(h:pman,j and the gunner's mate made thei ' *>ipc h a canoe, with two of their Otaheitean mifles, and landed on an adjoining idand, with a view to continue their courfe to Otaheite, as foon as they had furnifhed themfclves with proviOons for the voyage. They were no fooner miffed and re- port made to Capt. Cook, than he ordered all the boats to be manned, and a purfuit to com- mence with all poffible expedition ; at the fame time putting the King, his two fons, and two of the principal chiefs of the ifland under con- Rnement, till the fugitives fhould be taken and reftored. This he did, no doubt, to intereft the people of the ifland in the purfuit» and to prevent their affixing the deferiers in making their efcape. He alfo promifed a reward of large axes, looking glaffes, and other ardcles of conHderable value, to any of the natives, who (hould be inQrumental in apprehending and bringing them back. To enforce his orders he caufed all the (hipping to be feized, and he threatened deftrudion to the country if his men (hould be witheld. He even threatened the King and the young princes with death,if they were not brought back within a certain time. This might feem hard ufage, yet it had itseflPed-, and with- out this fteady refolute proceeding the deferters would never have been recovered. Our own boats went day after day, to all the adjoining iflands, without being able to learn the lead trace of them, f^fS i '^% Capt. CCOK's Voyage. 189 then)) and this they continued till having fearched every ifland within the diftance of two day's fail, they were at length obliged to give over any farther fearch, as fruitlefs. On the 30th, after fourteen days abfence, fome Indians came on board, and acquainted Capt. Cook that the fugitives were found, and that in a few days they would be brought back, defiring at the fame time the releafe of the pri- foners, as a condition without which they would again be let at large. But Capt. Cook paid no regard to this information. On the con- trary, he renewed his threatnings, which he faid he would inftantly order to be carried into ex- ecution, if the men were not delivered up. Next day, [the 30th] about five in the eve- ning, a number of canoes were feen at a dis- tance, making towards the (hips, and as they approached nearer, they were heard to fing and to rejoice as if they had fucceeded in finding what they went in fearch of. About fix they came fo nigh, that we could difcern, with our glaflcs, the deferters faftened together, but without their miflcs. They were no fooner b/ought on board, than the Royal prifoners were releafed, to the unfpeakable joy of all but the two fugitives, who were under great apprehenfions for their lives ; their punifhment however, was not fo fevere as might have been cxpefled. S was fentenced to receive 24 lalhes, and M— - turned before the mall, Q 3 where t-m K ' I I^'i' i I9P Capt. cook's Voyage. wheje he continued to do duty while there was little or nothing to do ; but on alking forgive- nefs, was reflored to his former ftation on the quarter-deck. :'...:■ ;. n ■- ... •= ^.- . :; >. It appeared, that the Indians had traced them from ifland to ifland,from Ulietea to Otaha, from Otaha to Bolabola, from Bolabola to the little ifland Taboo, where they were found, but where they never would have been looked for by us, had not the Indians traced them out. On the 1 fl: of December the tents were ftruck, the live-flock taken on board, and we prepared to fail. — An account of our intercourfe with the Earees and Chiefs of the ifland would only be a tedious repetition of what had palTtd be- fore in the other iflands ^ but one adventure which happened to Capt. Clavke, rnufl: not be omitted •, fauntering about in the cool of the mornino- at a diftance from the tents, he was obferved by a party of the natives, who way- laid him, and in an inftant fuirounded him. Being incapable of reflftance, they hurried him away, but v/ithout offering any violence to his pcrfon. It is probable they meant to keep him as an hofliage in the room of their king, who at that time was in cullody ; but fortunately for him, they could not carry him off without com- ing in fi^ht of the fliips. In pafTing a rifing ground, he found means to make a fjgnjl, which happened to be obferved, and in an infljnt the boats were armed and manned, and the crews being Capt. CO0K*s Voyage. 19 r being joined by the marines on (hore, he was followed and brought back, not a little fatigued, and perhaps fomewhat frightened bythe delicacy of his fituation. No. other incident worth re- lating happened during our (lay on this plenti- ful ifiand. ,. . ,„»-.. ,* , ^ :, ,, > .1 On the 2d, notice was given to the Otaheitean mifles that they muft all prepare to depart ( that the (liips were in readinefs to leave the country, never (O return to the Society I (lands any more. This news caufed great lamentation, and much buftle and confufion. They were now at a great diftance from home, and every one was eao;er to pet what (he could for herfelf before (he could part from her beloved. Moft of thtm had already ftript their mates of almoit every thing they po(rc(rfd, and ^hofe who had ftill fomething in refcrve led a fad life till they (liared-it with them. But what is moft afto- niOiing, notwithftanding what has been faid of the conftancy of thefe milTes, there was fcarce a man who had to do with them without beinp; injured by ihem. When we took our depar- ture from Ulietea, v/e had fcarce hanJs enougli able to do duty on bo^rd, there being more than 30 under the furgeon's hands, in this fituation, thofc who were well were obliged to do duty for thofe who were hurt, which, to do themjufticc, they very willingly performed. It was not, however, till the 7th, that we could get the fl;ips cle^r of thefe iroublefome y^'i tf'i ' ■ I 0,4 gentry! \i '^ .* i { I \ V. I t H' 192 CApt. cook's VorAG^. gentry. On that day we fee fail with a brifk wind to the weftward, and, Capt. Cook hav- ing received advice that the King of Bolabola had part of a large ancho' to diipofe of, we direded our courfe to ihat iflanu, where we ar- rived on the 8ch. Here both C:iptains landed* and were introduced to the old King, He re- ceived them according to the tropical cullonij oi^dered mats to be fpread for them, a ad plan- tains, bananocs, and cocoa-nuts to be brought by way of refrefhment. He then entered into difcourfe with them, prefled them to bring their (hips into harbour, and treated them in every refpedt with great apparent kindnels, tho* he had been reprefented by Tupia, to former voyagers, as little better than a common rob- ber. Being told that they were in hafle to fail, and that they could not ftay to come in-o harbour, he entered upon bufincfs -, and ai:er walking with them to the place where the an- chor lay, he told them, that one part uf the pur- chafe muft be a ewe •, that he had a rain, which had been prefented to him by fomc Grangers, who had lately vifited his iflard, and who had left him a ewe, but (he was dead. Capt. Cook inftantly ordered a ewe to be brought from the frjp, for which, and four large ax«-s, he purchafed the anchor, weighmg about 1150 }b. weight. They then took leave," and having brought the anchor on board, we fet fai', (leer- ing N. by E. The Capt. COOK*s Voyage. 193 ' The Ifland of Ulictca, which we juft left has hothing in it that differs elTentially from what is to be met with in the other iflands, only that the women have more liberty here than at Ota- heitc, and are not reftraincd from eating in com* pany with the men. While here, we were vi- ficed by the King and his chiefs *, gave and received entertainments. We attended their plays, and, in return, amufed them with fireworks, illuminations, and other diverfions, in the fame manner as at the other iflands, and remarked very little difference in the charadteriftics of the natives. As we were now taking our leave in earned o£l^iofe fertile ifles, we added to our live-ftock m<»e than 200 hogs, which we found would eat after they had recovered the fea-fick- nefs. In former voyages, it was not known that hogs would never eat while they were fick, it was therefore thought prudent co kill them, after falling thnje or four diys, from a belief that, having faded lb long, they would never cat again, and, if they died of themfcivc$» none of the crew would eat carrion. On the 9th in the morning we were by obfer- vation in lat. 15 deg. 15 min. S. and in long* 207 dcg. 52 min. E. and it may not be impro- per to oblerve, that the fpot on which the aftro- nomer's tent was crcdled in the ifland of Huc- heine, was in lat. 16 deg. 1.1 min. S, and in long. 208 deg. ^y min. Ii. of Greenwich, Wc r;!| :i I Ihrt » / T 4 i»4 Capt. GOOK's Voyage. We now continued our dircd courfe N. by E. as near as the winds would let us, ;vich moft- ly fine weather till the 20th, when in lat. 4deg. 54 min. S. we were furrounded with land and lea-wccd and bodies of trees, which Teemed to be but lately feparated from their refpedive roots ; but it was not till The 23d that we dilcovered land. On that day in lat. 2 deg. N. long. 203 deg. 55 min. E. after having crofled the line the day before, the man at the mad- head called out land, bearing N. E. diftance between fix and feven leagues. We inlUntly wore lliip, and Hood in for a fine bay, on which we found good anchorage in 48 fathom water. On viewing the iOand from the (hips, there did not appear the lead fign of an inhabitant ; but near the fiiore there were Ihoals of (harks, and the fea feenied cruftcd over with fea fowls, fome of a very large fize. The boats that had been fent out to reconnoitre, returned in the evening with one large turtle each, and loaded with boobies and other tropical birds that by hungry mariners are generally cfteemed good eating. They likewife brought fcveral (harks, which they found in fuch fhoals, that they knocked them on the head with their oars. On the 24th we changed our ilation, and an* chorcd in 17 fathom water. And on the 25th we kept Chriftmas in much mirth and fclUvity, the crew having pknty of provifions and the gentlemen plenty of turtle. The fliips being lafcly moored, and the wea- ther I ■■!^t Capt. COOK'S VoYACE. 195 ther fine, but almoft infupportably hot, the men were allowed the whole day to amufe themfelves, and every one had a pint of brandy to drink health to their friends in Old England, though many thoufand miles diftant. . .', n a In the evening, parties from both fhips were invited to go a turtling, but none were prefTcd to go on that fcrvice •, all were volunteers. On our landing all went different ways, and in or- der to know where to meet, fires were made in feparate diredions, one fire for theRefolutioji's party, and one for that of the Difcovcry's. Our party befcre morning had turned more than 26 turtles, and had carried them on board ; and when the boats wert^ unloaded, returned for more. In the mean t-ime, a fifhing party were likewife fent out, and were no lefs fuccefsful than the turtlers •, but on this fervice a feam^a had a very narrow cfcape. As he was helpinw of a rock till the heat of the fun abated, dur* ing which time a refreOiing fleep gave them fome relief, and enabled them to perform a journey of about feven or eight miles, which otherwife they muft have periQied before they could have accomplifhed. When they arrived at the hut, to their great concern they found it deferted, and deftitute of every kind of pro- viHons *, but, calling their eyes towards the (hips they perceived the boats haftening to their .re- lief. The crew, and the officer who commanded, had waited at the hut, till all their provifions were expended, and, not knowing how to pro- ceed, had repaired to the (hip for a fre(h fup- ply, and for frelh orders ; and he was now re- turning fully furnilhed and intruded. On his arrival he was (Iruck with aftonilhment at the fight of three fuch miferable beings as the gentlemen and mate appeared to be, lafcerated all over, and befmeared with blood, and with fcarce a rag about them broader than a garter. Their cry was for grog, which was dealt to them fparingly, and they were inllantly fent on board to be properly taken care of. The (irft enquiry they made, was, whether any of the company had been fent after them, and be- ing anfwered in the affirmative, and that they were not yet returned, they could not help ex- prelTing their doubts whether they ever would return ; Capt. COOK*s Voyage. 203 return } adding their wifhes at the fame time that no means might be omitted to endeavour their recovery. — It is natural for men, who have juft experienced any (ignal deliverance, to feel poignantly for the fafety of others under the fame critical circumstances. It was there- fore no fmall fatisfadion to the fufFerers, when they were told, that every poflible means would be tried for their relief $ and to enable thole who were to be fent on that errand the belter to diredb their fearch, the gentle- men defcribed, as well as they could, the place where they were heard. The evening, however, was now too far advanced to under- take, with any probability of fucccfs, their de- liverance. There were now twenty of the crew (feamen and marines) who had been dif- patched from on board, for recovering the gen- tlemen. Thefc had orders to traverfe the thic- kets in a body, till they Ihould find fome of them either living or dead, for, till the gentle- men appeared, nothing could be concluded with certainty concerning them. The majority were of opinion that, if they had been alive, they moft certainly would have returned as foon as it was dark, as they could have no motive to purfue their fport in the nighty and it was by 210 means probable, that they (hould be bewiU dered, becaufe they might furcly have found the fame way out of the cover, by which they went into it. This was very plaufible } but foms on board, who had failed with Commodorf K 2 Byron, :H' ■ ■ i a04 CAPTi COOK'S VOYAOB. Byron, and who remembered the almoft im« penetrable thickets in the IQand of Timan» where men could not fee one another in the Qpen day, at the diftance of three yards, knew well how the gcDtlemen might be entangled, and how hard it would fare with them if it (hould fo happen. But, a« this inftance was known only to few, it was regarded by noiK» and the former opinion, tb^t fome fatal ^^idcQC had tiappened to tbem^ prevailed generally, till the gentlemen appeared, vhen the tono changed^ and every one argued the improbality ai it, when the event had (hewn it to be ill-founded. It was now the place for turtling, and, tilt morning, nothing could be undertaken for the relief of the poor men. Parties therefore went out as before, and continued their fport, while they had light, when many were turned, and one found which had been killed by fomebodyv and brought in among the re(^, ^ v^ » »^ kc^j-, • Early in the morning of the apifh, whert the whole company were aflembled, the plart of their proceeding was formed. By marching m lines at fuch a didance from each other, as to be within hearing, it was thought im^ pofllble to fail of Bnding the men, if living, or of difcovering fome traces of them, if dead i and they were to direct their line of march towards the fpot where the found of the voices was heard by the gentlemen. ' ^''^ 'S "^i h'^'^.v.rrj J i,ii^' L-'i i-..wi Qr'^J, After ler, as It inv» |living, dead; march voices After Capt. COOK'S VovAOB. 205 .; After a diligent fearch of fix hours, BarthO'> iomcw Loreman was difcovered in a moft miv ferable condition, almoft blinded by the veno- mous bites of the vermin added to the fcorching heat of the fun, and fpeechlcfs for want of fomethin^ to clear his throat. He made flgni for water, and water was given him. He was moving about, but totally ftupid, having no f<;nfe of danger, or of the miferable condition in which he was found. It fortunately happen- ' ed, that the boats from both (hips were pre* vioufly fent round the point of land already mentioned, and planted along the coaft, as tht land trended, for the convenience of taking the gentlemen on board, in cafe they fliould havebeen found ftrayed to any confiderable diftance. If this precaution had not been taken, this man mud have periflied before he could have been conveyed by any other means to the pUce of rendezvous, and it was with the utmofl difficul- ty that he was carried to the neareft boat. As foon as he could be brought to his fpcech, he faid he had parted from his companion Trecher in the morning, not in anger, but not agrceijbg about the way back, nor ever expedling to fee one another again i he faid they had travelled the day before as long as they could in fearch of the gentlemen without fuccefs, and that when overcome with fatigue, they fat down to refreih, and he believed drank a little too freely of their grog, for they both fell aQeep, They were R 3 frightened 'li fto6 Capt. COOK'S VovAOB. frightened when they waked to find it dark night, and although they felt their faces and hands covered with vermin, the thoughts of having negk^ed their duty, and the dread of the confequences fo diftradted their minds, that they were hardly fenfible of any other pain. As reft was now no longer their objed, they rofc and wandered, they neither knew nor cared where, till day began to break upon them, and then they endeavoured to recolledt their way with a view to rejoin their companions ; but af- ter walking and winding about as they could find a paflage through the bulhes, they at laft began to difcover, that they were going from the place of rendezvous indead of making to- wards it. Fatigued to the laft degree with walk- ing, and perplexed in their minds, they began to grow carelefs about living or dying, and in that humour fat down to lighten their burden, by making an end of their provifions and grog. This they had no fooner done, than fleep again furprized them, and, notwithftanding the ver- min, with which they found themfelves covered when they awoke, they found themfelves again in the dark, and again rofe up to wander about which they continued to do as before, lamenting their melancholy (ituation, and confulting what courfe to take. Several wild projeds came into their heads. They had heard of Robinfon Crufoe's living fo maniy years upon an uninha- bited ifland, with only his man Friday, and t - why i.T Capt. cook's Voyage. 207 why might not they live in this ! But hitherto they had feen no four-footed animal, nor any thing on which they could Pjbfid, but turtle and fowls, the latter of which they had no means to attain, and they were totally unpro- vided with c^ery earthly thing but what they carried about them. That fcheme therefore appeared too romantic ; they next thought of climbing the highefl: tree, to try if they could difcover any hill or eminence, from whence they might take a view of the country, in order to be certain whether it was inhabited or not. This was approved by both, an;! Trecher mounted the loftieft within his reach, from whence he faid he could difcern, towards the South-wed, a mountain of confiderable height, and as that was the point that led to the (hips, thither he propofed that they (hould go; but Loreman rather chofe to depend upon Providence, and endeavour to regain the (horcy as he judged by the report of a gun, which he thought he heard the day before, that it mufc lie in the direflion from whence the found pro- ceeded, and thither he was endeavouring to make his way, till his eye-fight failed him, and he loft all fenfe of adion. His companion, he faid, who was at fome diftance farther in the thicket, and who did not hear the report of the gun, did not believe what he faid *, whereupon they agrfcd to part. What courfe Trecher ' R 4 took !'|^^ n •■ i ^P3 CaPT, COOK'S VOYAPE, tQQ)(L he could np^ ^11, but hp belljcvejd to the SQUth-^eil. J^preman was judged i^ pop fdang^rous a con- djtlpn to adniit of ^ny del^y } he wa^ therefore ferip o/F in the bq^p, ant^ bejn^ put \;n4er the cgrf of the Surgep^, fpon recovered* v : ^fter ^hi^ detail it wfs debated, \yhe^her to re- fign Trecher to |iis f^te, pr to continue the ff^ff ji* T^f hun^fnicy pf the officer, w|)Q hfi(l the co;njnand of the party, prevailed- U wf^ no\¥ ;^bP>)C ten in the iporning, of the 29th, ^h^m ^he wl^ole party, after taking (bme re- frpihmenty fet out to fcopr the thickets, and> by ballppipg, ringing of bells, beating of drums, i^nd pprfuing different courfes, determined he i})oi^l4 hear them if he were aljve. It was no cafy tajk to penetrate a tr^cklefs cover, over- grown with underwood, and abounding with infers, of which the mufkatpes ^ere the lead trouj^lefofpe. But npmbers make, that eafy, which tp individuals would be impradicable. ' They went on chearfully at firft ^ bpt^ before a fpw hours were elapfed, even jthe gentlemen, whp were inlpirited by their fuccefs in killing game, began to be tired, and it was thought advifeable to red; and refrefli durmg the middle of th^ day, and to renew the purfuit after tliey had dined. As yet they had not be^n able tp difcover any trace or t^ack of the man (h^y were feeking, though it hac) been agreed between Trecher and his companion, to cut boughs ^ from Capt. cook's Voyage. 209 (torn the trees, as- chry paflTed along, by way of m^irk or guide to each other, in cafe of fe- paratbn. • Kf #• ^ --: - > , This WIS no fmall difcouragemenc ; and fcyr had any rcii(h to renew a labour attended with fo much fatigue, and fo little profpeft of fuccefs. .,..;« .i ,tr The officers were alone inflexibly bent qn the purfuic. The men, though they were no lefs willing* were not all equally able to endure the fatigue, and fome of them were even ready to drop, before their dinner and their grog had revived their fpirits. The only expedient that now remained to be cried, was. that which Tre- cher himfelf had projected, namely, to climb the higheft tree that appeared in view, in order to look for the mountain which he pretended to have feen, and to which it was thought pro- bable that he might direft his courfe. This was no fooner propoied than executed. In a mo* meiit -a Tailor was perched at the top of every lofty tree in fight, and the tiigh land defcried, feemingly at no great diftance from the place where the party had dined. It was now agreed, to make the beft of their way to the eminence, but this proved not fo eafy a taflc as it at Brft appeared to be. When they thought them* felves juft ready to mount, chey met with a lagoon that interrupted their progrefs; and coafting it along, they difcovered the O^eleton of a creature that, by its length, appeared to be 2IO Capt. cook's Voyage: \fc an allegator. In viewing this narrowly, fomething like the track of fome large animal was obferved to have paflfed it, and the high grafs on the margin of the lagoon to have been freih troddsn. This excited the curiofity of |he whole party, who imagined that fome monfter inhabited the lagoon, againft which it was prudent for them to be upon their guard. The waters of the Lagoon were fait as brine, and every where fkirted with a kind of reed and fedge, that reached as high as a man's head, and could not be penetrated without danger from fcorpions or other venomous reptiles, fe- veral of which had been feen in the buflies. All attempts therefore of fucceeding by this courfe appeared to be labour loft, and as no other were thought more probable, it was rc- folved to relinquifh the purfuit, and to return to the boats ; but the day being already too far fpent to make their return pradicable be- fore the morningf it was agreed to coalt it along the lake, to endeavour to find accefs to the op- pofite hills s and this was the more ealiiy eflfec- ted, as between the fedgey border and the thicket there was an open fpace of unequal breadth, only fometimes intcrfeded with bram- bley patches that joined the lake, but of no great extent. Through thcfe they made their way with little oppofuion till the lake appeared to deepen, when a mofl flubborn woody copfe fcemed to bid defiance to their further progrefs. This '1: 1 - flfec- the qual ram- no their ;ared ropfc This Capt. cook's Voyaob. 211 This difficulty, however, was with much la-^ bour furmounted, and it was no fooner paflfed^ than the lake was found to terminate, and the ground to rife. The country now began to put on a new face. The profped which had hither- to prefented nothing but a wild and almoft im- penetrable thicket, as they afcended the rifing ground, became delightful. And whei;! they had attained the fummit of the eminence, was exceedingly pi£lurefque. Here they determined to pafs the night within a pleafant grove, which feemed to be defigned by nature for a place of rc&. The whole party now aflembied, and or- ders were given by the commanding officers to eredb temporary tents to (belter them from the evening damps. Thefe tents were only boughs and leaves of trees fer up tent fafliion. In this fervice fome were employed in cutting down and preparing the materials, while others were bufied in difpofmg and putting them together ^ fome were ordered to collect fuel, and others to carry it to the fummit of 'an adjoining hill, U order to be kindled at the clofe of day, and kept burning during the night, by way of (ig- nal, to let the boats know that the party were fafe, and that they had not yet relinquilhed the . fearch. Add to thefe orders, that a fentinel was to attend the fire in the night, and a watch to be regularly fet and relieved to guard the tents. In the mean time the gentlemen amufed them- felves by taking a view of the lagoon from the 312 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; the hills, and obfcrving its extent. They faw it bounded on three fides by a ridge of hills, and open only to the N. W. from which quarter they had approached it. They alfo obferved an open down to trend towards the (hore, by which the low grounds were divided, and which gave them hopes that their return in the morning would be much Ihortened. Before night fet in the tents were compleated; and in due time the orders that had been given were pundually carried into execution*, the fire was lightedi the fentinel at his ftation, the watch fet, and the party all retired to reft. It was about the dead of night that the fentinel who attended the fire was furprized by a four-footed monfter, that had (lole upon him by a (low and filent pace, and was jufl: ready to feize him, when looking behind him he darted fuddenly from it, and flew down to the tents to apprize the watch. The man's fears had magnified the monfler to twice the fize of an elephant, fo that the failor, whofe turn it was to be upon the w'atch, was equally alarmed and terrified. The ofHcer on duty was prefently made acquainted with the danger, and confulted what was beft to be donef The countenance of the fentinel, his known courage, and the folemn manner in which he attefted the truth of what lie faid he faw, added to the recollection of the fkeleton and the track of the mondrous creature that was obferved to have come out of the water and pafTed by it, .;.;;< j^pi QA« Iv* wji# ». a ^ii *^ ""left r. Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 215 left no room to fu^ft a deception. It will noc feem (trange therefore, that the officer (hould advife calling to their afliftance th6 ferjeant of marines, the fecond mate and the armouref^' the ftouteft n*en of the partf. With this rein- fof!teft¥ient the/ march'd up the hill in form, Mr. Hbllingibjr and Mr. Dixon in front, thci' ferjeant and tUke ftfnrinel in the iictt line, and two failors to compofe the rear. As they ap- proached the fire, the fentinel, peeping from behind the armiourcr^ beheld Che tnonfter thro* the fmoke, as tall again as he was before, and gaive the word to the front line to kneel and fire ; but happy ft was, tl>at the armourer, fearing neither devil nor morrfter; dctermiiied to refcrve his fire till he faced his enemy. He therefore advanced botdly, and, looking fharply at it through the flames,. took it for a man, and cal- led to it to fpeak. But what was their aflonifh- m^t, when they beheld the very identical Tho- mas Trecher, of whom they had been in fearch furlong, crawling upon all fours, for his feet were fo bliftered that he could not ftand, and hf$ throat fo parched that he could not (peak; It is hard to fay which wasf predominant, their j6y, their furprize or then* laughter. No time, however, was loft in adminiftring relief. S6mc ran to the tents to tefl the news and to bring fdme refVeftimcnt, while the reft ftrove to eafc bim^ by fi^pporting him in their arms. In* s h^ minutes he was furrounded by the whote* tnio: party. ':Vt ill! 'Q 114 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. party, eager, fome to learn his ftory, and all to give him relief j the officers, in particular, brought him cordials, which they adminiftiered fparingly till he was brought to hi» fpeech. He was a mod affecting fpedtacle, bliftered from* head to foot by poifonous infcAs^ whofe veno- mous (tings had caufed fuch an intolerable itch- ing, that his very blood was inflamed by cop- ' llant rubbing. By anointing him with oil, the acrimony in fome degree abated, and by- frequently giving him fmall quantities of tea*.! mixed with a little brandy, they brought him * to his fpeech ; but it was fome days before he recovered the perfed ufe of his fenfes. As foon as they had recovered him fo far, by proper refrefhment, as to entertain hopes of fav- ing his life, they carried him to bed, and or- . dered one cf his mefs-mates to attend him. In : the morning his fever was abated; but there arofe a difficulty, how he was to be conveyed more than ii miles, through a country fuch as has been defcribed in his weak condition. To Englidi Tailors nothing, that is not impoffible, is impra^icable. One of them remembered that, when a boy, his fchoolfellows and he ufed to divert themfelves with making fedan chairs with rulhes, and he thought it an eafy matter to make fuch a one, with materials from the thicket, that would anfwer the purpofe. This was no fooner propofed than executed, and a machine contrived, in whirh |hey took it by turns Capt; cook's Voyage. 215 turns to carry him through almoft infurmountable obftruftions. — The gentlemen had, indeed, dif- covered a lefs encumbered palTage than that,- through which they had made their way the day before •, but it reached very little farther than they could fee with the naked eye ; all the low ground beyond was fwampy and reedy, and fo abounding with infefts of various kinds, that it was even dangerous for the men to open their mouths, without fomethlng to defend them. In the evening, inexprefTibly fatigued, and their water and provifions wholly expended, they reached the beach, where the Difcovery's cutter was grounded, and whtre likewife the Refolution's boat, that had been waiting all the day before on the oppofite fiJe of the peninfula, was arrived. After fome flight refrclhment» and wifhing each other a profperou? voyage, they parted, each party repairing to their own (hip, and Trechcr being committed to the fur- geon*s care, recovered gradually, but . it was fome weeks before he was fit to do duty.. We h?d now been off this ifland near fevcn days, in which time we had taken more than 100 turtle, from 150 to 300 fc weight on board •, but, not being able to difcover any frefli water in it, On the I ft of January, 1778, about ten in the morning, we unmoored and fet fail with the Refolution in company, directing our courfe N by £, with a gentle breeze from the call* To I 1 ■% 216 CaPt. C60K*s Vo^aob. To ihe ifland, whibh we hai7e juft lefcy Capt; Cook gave the name of Turtld lAand* It lies in lac. 2 deg« a min. N. and in long. 2q9 Ek froni Greenwich^ It is a low barren iQand^ and has all the appearance of behngi buFnt tip. The few cocoa-nut trees that were found upon 1^ produced hardly any fruity and, ex^pt a few on the borders of the lagoon already mentioned what they bore were without any k^rneK Early on the 2d of January, Turtle Ifland bore £• S. £. as far as the eye could carry, and as we were now clear of land, and proceeding with a profperous gale, and had plenty of pro- viHons on board, the men were allowed turtle to boil with their pork, which in a few days was difcontinued by the advice of the furgeOfn» and turtle i'ubftituted in the room of every other kind of meat. This was found both heaiihful and nourittiing, and was continued till withifi a feMr days of our arrival at another ifland, where we met with frefh provifions, and water equal to any we brought with us from the Society Ides. On the 3d the wind fliifted W.S.W. smd a f^orm came on, preceded by a lowring darkneii, that prcfaged fome violent convulfion, and foon after it broke forth in thunder, lightning, wind tfnd r^in, which in two hours increafed to fuch a violent degree, as no man on board had ever known the like. Fortunately it was but of (iSort continuance ; but, in chat little t»m<, the ftra broke over our quarter, and cleared the deck-s apt* lies 8£^ tip. upon I few oned ul and a few icrc we ual to laes. and a rkne(i. Id foon wind fuch a ^d ever )ut of 8, the decks Capt. COOK'S Voyage. aiy of Avery thing 'thac was loofo. Before noon the' force of the temped was abated, but the rain continued, of which we madd good ufe. From the time of our leaving Ulietea to the prefent day, we had received no frefli fupply of water : juid, though the ^ill had been conftant)y at work, our complement began already to r^n fcaney. This ^ifcernoon, feveral indications of land were ob- ferved, fuch as great quantities of fea^weedt and frefti timber floating with the current by the (hips. The Refolution made the fignal to fliort- en fail and (land to the Southward, which wa^ obeyed v but, no land coming in light while it was day- light, after eight houri fearch we left off the purfuit, and refumed our courfe to the northward, which we continued till - • The 13th, when, in lat. ijdeg. 3 min. long. 201 deg. 6 min. we lletred tp the IST. W. 'n\ fearch of land, the llgns of which were very ftriking; but, after continuing that courfe all night, withput fucceeding, we again flood tp the north. From this time till The 20th, nothing material happened, fome (light dorms excepted ; we (hall therefore re- fume our relation of what occi^rred to Trecher, from the time that he parted from his compa* nion, on the apf h of Pecemberi ti)l thp night he was found on the 3d. j^^^^'^ ^ * - ' It was, as has already been obferved, fever ral days before he could perfedly recoiled all ^l>gt paflfed in his mipU, and all that he fufftrpd * »!Jii fS "^ ife'fl 2lt CaPT, COOKVs yQYACEi. ill. bis perfonf. He. confirmed Lprettianfs rcJaL. tion of what ^^M while they remained ten; gether, but, in the morning, of th%e Hde. Thougli there w^re ftrpc^ill, «<9d>t h(e( beiievcd^f fcorpionsr continuaUy- hliUng) jn ^oobf^ ail dl-i regions, the fear of Mtig £tuitg:by.!thcm wat abforbed by the more immediate AOtture he felt from the mulketoes ^ad other vei)iOus infers that faftened upon hMn* and titf^t^i^im inCef* fantly i add to thefe dillreflfes, the bftd condition of his (hoes, which were wori) t^ (h^di«; and, though he had tied theoiirouodtca^dHriound with cords made of twifted grafs yA& it was hardly podible for him to Ib^ep them upon his liiKt for ten (leps together. In this melahcholy fituttion, i[el^ was A ftranger tQ him, yet Qctfp.^ouldfomc' ;imci BElir^^^q, ton. hcon r on. jchJtj It; tans h .be, [nakei Ifoea; e thei U ttitti fttc \ni thbrn*! hernihe cc fide, iievcd, ; aUdl-; 5tn wat 1 he felt infeas incfef- Indition ii,! 9nd, |nd with hardly jltetfor kiuation» llcifpnic- Capt, COOK'S VoyAoe. 2\g times clofe his eyes, and fill his imagination with horrors ftill more diftrcfling than thofe he felt while awake. Towards the evening of the 29th, he thought he heard the howling of dogs ', and, a- while after, the growling of Tome favage bead, but of What fpecies he could not tell } however he faw nothing, and thefe might only be the creatures of his own , difturbed fancy. Towards night he got together a quafttity of broad leaves from the trees to make him a bed, and to cover his face and hands from the black ants. To allay his thirfl, he thought of chew, ing the ilems of a reed, that had a fuecarine tafle, and was probably a wild kind of fugar-cane, which gave him fome refrelhment, and contri* buted not a little to his prefervation. Soon as day beg^n to dawn, he found himfelf weak and Ian* guid, and had very little ftomach to renew his labour. His firft care, however, was to repair his ftioes. This he did by forming wifps of grafs into the (hape of foales, and placing them underneath the remains of the leather foles. He then tied them together round his feet and an- cles with cords, made as before ; and with thefe he made (hift to fcramble on a-while, but they foon wanted repair. He again had recourfe to his Brd expedient, and mounted a tree thac over-topped the cover, and got fight of the high land that fird animated his purfuit. He thought it fo near that he could foon reach it. and hafltn- Ing down made his way with morriracrity than ^ z ever, ! tl «>;■» i ' 1'™ . 280 C41»T. COOK'S VOYAOE. ever, being prepoflTeiTed that, if he could reacH, that eminence, his deliverance would be fure. For fome hours he flruggled through the molt formidable obftacles, the cover being now fo thick and llrong, and withal fo high, that he could hardly fee the light over his head through the leaves and the bu(hes. This happened to be the outer border that fkirted the lagoon, which when he had penetrated, and found an opening, his heart leaped within him, but hit joy was of ihort continuance. He prefently difcovered that he had another danger to fur- mount before he could reach the fummit of hit wi(hes. He attempted the lagoon, and waded nearly acrofs, without the water riOng higher than his middle, but all at once plunged over- head in deep water, and it was next to a mir racle, that he faved himfelf from drowning. He then returned quite exhaulted and deje£ted^ and breaking through the fedge on the margin of the lake, he (tumbled upon the ikeleton of the wonderful nK>n(ler, already mentioned, which he believed was fifty feet long. He was fo fear- ed at the fight of the bones that his hair flood on-end, and he thought of nothing now but being eaten up alive. Totally difpirited, and faint for want of food- or any thing to drink, and deprived of all means of proceeding any farther, he crept along the lake till he came to a cocoa-nut tree near the edge of the thicket, which he attempted to clinnb, but fell down for ^^ wint Capt. Cb6K*s VoVAOf. sai want of ftrength to keep his hold, and lay for federal hours incapable of motion. He heard, he faid, a noife in the cover, in the day, but could neither hollow to be heard, nor follow the found, though fome of the com* pany muft have paflfed.very near him ; but fee* nig the fire lighted on the hill in the evening, it encouraged him to make one flruggle more for life. Without a Ihoe to his foot, having loft them in the lake, he made (hift to crawl up the hill, as already related.— Few readers will think it poflible for a man to fuffer fo much in fo fhort a time i and yet many have loft their lives by being bewildered in England, and ma* ny more on the wild heaths in Scotland, which cannot be fuppofed to be fo dangerous as the thick cover of a defolate iQand, where no man ever fet his foot before. But, be that as it may, fuch is the account given by Trccher of his fuf- fering during the three days he was abfent from the (hip. Having been now 17 days at fea, without feeing land. On the 18th, a very fcvereftorm arofc, which blew with irrefiftible fury for fome hours, and obliged us to clue up our main (heets, and feud before it at the rate of 7 or 8 knots an hour j but before noon the wind died away, and a dead calm fuccecded. Such is the variablenefs of the weather near the tropics. On the 19th, being then in lat. 21 deg. 20 min. N. and long. 198 E. the man at the maft- head called out high land, bearing E N. E. and S 3 in < 'I'slilf^ Iw^ Ml 111,"* '(■! ■ 'K-1 1 ■ I \ \tr. ■ :S W Bi.JrI'l •i ' li.' 1^21 Capt. COOK*s Voyage* in a very little time came in fight of more larid« apparently of an equal height with the farmer. As we approached nearer the windward ifland, it prefented no very promifing afpecl, being mountainous, and furrounded with reefs, with- out any ligns of inhabitants v we therefore ftood off and on till The 20th, when we bprie a.way for the land we had feen to leeward, but not then in fight* < ^bout 9 in the morning, it was feen the fe- cond time at the diilanceof about 7 or 8 leagues. We were charmed with its appearance as we came near it, obferving it to abound with rivers^ and to exhibit a profped fo full of plenty, that "we anticipated the pleafure we expe6ted9 by fup- pofing ourfelves already in pofleflion of a men:, feafonabie fupply. We had been for feveral days reduced to the fcanty allowance of a quart a day, and that none of the belt ; and now we faw whole rivers before us, our hearts were di- lated with, joy ; yet we had much to .fuffer. We found ourfelves debarred from the thing we moil wiOied-for for feveral days, by (hoals and rocks that to us were impracticable. We coaded along the N. W. fide of the ifland, founding as we went, while the boats from both fhips were employed in fearching for feme b.ay or harbour, where we might fateiy anchor. In the mean time feveral canoes c^me from the ihore with plantains and dri4!d fidi on board, who parted with what they ha^ foi* ^ny triOes » « !1! ..'i. M"' '. ;?::-*r1 t.j,..! that ^\^pyi;^rp,9ffiifi:d them> ,^d at firfl: behaved with great civility, but could not {)e perfv^jdedto VjcntViffi pfxjppf^xd. Atjivc 'in.thc ev^nipg^ we Vi^^e l¥^ Icfigvies from; i^e (Hore furroanded by Iny nail .),i7W)^)qwe fjefpained at Tea, no peo{>le on earth cpyldJu^.mope/rkndly ^ jbi;ic our iboau had no rppifi^^i^ancf^d) than a quarrel arofe between the natives ji^qd C|ur people, ,]iyhich w,zs terminated by , the death of one of thle forjner. It waai fai^ ; t^ac,^he Indians w^re the ^ggi^^ors^ by throwingHQnBs at the boats tp, prei^e^i^ithe 4>eo« pie from landing, and thar ^rders bjeing given to. iire a ,gU9 pv^r the heads of, the aiTailants^ l^ithout doiiig 'them any h^urt, ipftead pf com* manding; c^fgeidt^ it only qn^couraged ^hern in inColcncc, till Mr. W-^-rt> our third I^ieut«<» nant, prcia;»|;4pg his,pi^Cf^, ihqt one of the ring* leaders dead upon the fpot.' - . This ,early afl of feverity was. probably the means of faying nnany lives. The Indians dif* perfed immediately, carrying off the dead body along with them. And the boats not haying made an^ difcQvery returned to the (hips, where they were, taken on board* and fecured till ncict morning* • * ' ■ ' f ■"- *-",'-■-:':-:*":- tt'd On the aid the boats were again feht out, but to as little purpofe as betbre. Little trade $4 was i.; ,l\V i::w IH ft24 Capt. COOK'i VoVAo^. ivas thU day carried on, as the natives C<6ct!^^id very fliy. Butj ^^f f k, > * j fYjiuvi* 'i^»tjj ^* On the lidj the lhi()s having found anchor- age on the fouth'Weft fide, they were no foonef mooredy than they were again furrounded with a more numerous multitude of illandef^ thai! before i moftof them in canoes ladeii With hogs^ plantains, bananoes and fweec potatoes, which they readily exchanged as before, ittrt the failors wefe fuffered to make what purthafti they pleafed j Only women were prohibited by Capt. Cook's order, oh the fevered penalties.--- This created a general muftilur amortg the fes. men, whofe pleafure was tehtered in that kind of comiAerce, in the hewdlfcovered iflandj wherever they wfehti ' ^ ' * ^ * < In the afternoon the pirinace'^al'bfdcfrea biit, and the tWo Captains landed on the beac^h, where ihey wefe 'met by the chiefs of the idaild, and more than 2000 of their fubjedts, not 'In a hof- tile manner) but in amity, exchanging ^^efentii and eftablilhing trade. ^* ^^ ' -'^ '''^'-^' Capt. Cook made (igns for Water, and Was conducted to a mofl; delightful little rivulet, fo conveniently fituated for fupplying the fliipsi that, had not the Refolution been driven from' her moorings by the Violence of an eafterly wind and (trong current^ nothing could have exceeded our entertainment at this hofpicable port *, but unfortunately for her^ ht could never a gain ^e-» cover her (tation. When ihe was forced to fesk fht mUK- ill i;,:;i t^ ^*j^i €aPT. cod iC*S VoYAGfe. it\ Ait had but half her complement of water ; nor had (he frelh provtfions fuHicient to fupply he? people for any length of time. We in the Dif^ tovery were more fortunate* In the evening of tins 24th we could fee the Refolution to leeward eight or nine league^) and in the mean time« w^ile (he was beating upi we were employed in tompleatihg our hold* »^^> .is ^na .??f ^ aB-rsi ^' On the afth We Were tin readinefll to fail^ and, having loft fight of the Refolution^ we imagined that, not being able tb fetch her for'* ftrer ftation, (he had bOre away to another ifland^ which had bleen fecn to the N. W. diftance abouc 10 or li leigueSi ' ^ ' On the 2^th w^ weighed,dire&ing our couffe to tht N.W: bUt"ibout ten in the morning* the man at therftafth ptitit^frft, ■}.} jlqojq jo The Q^pum : fiacl alijegdy : exchanged Owwitl prefi^nt^ ^^ tfee chiefs pf iheiAand. ^n^M^ jn p%rtM;Hlw,.|>re/flnM the kjog wijth HWOrflhifl-? gp^^ and a faipr^v aod ha4 received in retvrn;/!^ large hogs, and an immenfe quantity Qf.yan)9 ?n4n*gar^fi^jjei>fvi(|h pbi^Jh itUeft iflnndsfecnjed tft^abpModi.igpji ;ic: \fas jfeRuoate, ^hat he ha4 (4BP^ed fi^c^)fl?jp.,(WfiJth„^vqh.proyiftqn!8.;^ the »?^Af#pr4e4ni)^fpriitily.pi^.vid^ii;jjftj(i|fv^rj ashcrfj^e^i- ed to kno^^^hi^e,b^rmi]4,f^ip,g^ fupply,,,he did not /otj|3»ji}ciii jre^et ,t^ey riifappoif^tnacAt, Our bo4ts,.,^lfil,e,t(ic (ly^^iyjj^ccy ffibje, wTcriq employed "in bring^g 09 J:jo^ jtljf prpdu^ pf theiOand, and, ^ t^c,c;v^ng^^,;^,,,^ ^i n'i^v hpgs, bcfidc^ ,tL|nrec tpontbs allqjvai[ice 9f f]V,|ec pot^toes^ .b^nwIPres, p]antj|i|^,^ffjg^5-cj^9|^,,^ |i)^ yegetablcsjh abimdance. !;., • v.is f* ^ Early in thcrroprning on.)c|ip 2d we w^iohcd^ and foOn ^.^ifP^JP fight of^tji^Rcfolution ^japd both took our dcp^rtur« t9 proceed upon our ▼oyagc. ;^ oi ^,r I0 noffl^ftoq ^iii>lsib.i£ ;bf|it:' ■yj-,' ti' -,? " There and 1% our hefe Capt: cook's Voyage. 227 ThcCe idartdsj wli^ch' lie in the latitude of 21 deg. 44 filjn.-N. and in' lon^ 199 E. arc not, in beayey and fertility, infertor to the Fricndiy Iflarfds" in the fouthern hernifphcre, nor ate the inhabitants Idsingtfnious omyilize'd. Exccjpt'tlie firflrquiirrelihat hiippentd^ oif^ which VIC .ha:vcv iakftaexa^ly refi^nobling co-^ vef lids. And others appeared like primed cottons. ^ and) befidesdotb, the^yiiad many otfaei" attfdiet ' which (hewed that they had artifieers afmong^' thepi not wanttftg in ingenuity. Ont pec^iili- ari^y ^e.-obrerivc4 ^mong ^e men, and that tiair,ii^bich «h Their manufactures the people freely fold for nails, hatchets, fciflars, knives, or iron inftru- ments of any kind i glafs bowls was a valuable article, fo were beads, buttons, looking-glafTes, china-cups, and in (hort any of our European commodities. Except the fugar-cane, which appeared indi- genous to thefe iflands, and which were rare in thofc ^1 1 'V ?■ Capt. cook's Voyaoe. 229 tbofe on the other fide the line, their produce was much the fame» only the cocoa-nuts were by no means fo large, nor in fo great plenty here as at the Friendly IQes. Wood was not to be purchafed in plenty, nor did we ftand much in need of that article. Hogs, dogs, ducks and poultry were here in greater abundance than on the other fide the line, but (heir plantations were not fo beauti- fully ranged, nor fo well cultivated. The houfet here are warmer as the air is colder. They are built tent a ^uoUn :/ '♦' C apt; cook's VoVAoft. 331 dl»v ifdp it was rtfade » point tbTufitr none to rcftiiiia idle» Whcfcl the bafinefs of navrgating tKc* (br{) did nOt I'ccfoire their intmediaife atteii- dihcti ' The c,ift. when in lat. 3^ lo'rig. 4o^ E. we (lioVtfcri^d ftiil; and fteered N. N. W. the WR6fe -lii^t, ha\^'ng had ftrottg figns of land to the eaftward the whole day ^ but no land cbmtiig in light, wfe ag^ain renewed our courfe, and fo continued till ' The 26th, wheh a mdft dreadful ftorm arofe, With (Uch a (i^ell, that though We were nop more than half a mile from the Refoliition, we feqlidntty r6fl! right of her amidft the heavy feki: '"rh this gttle b6th fhips fuffered confidc- rabiy in their fails and rigging, it being impof- fible to hahd them before we were furprized by tlie temped. We Were now in lat. 43 dcg. ify niin. and in foh^. 221 deg. 9 min. and wer« atten(Je^ by Teals,, {ea-llons, man of war birds, Port Egmont hens, maggs and fea-guls, which virere flrong indications of land. On the morning of the 27th the wind abated, but the fwell dill continued from the fouthward, and we proceeded under clofe reefed top-fails till about ten in the morning, when we (hook out the reefs, and'niade all the fail we could ia Conrtpany with tficKctolution. . * ' •.:;■.., ,-;:i)f^ ■. -- ■ -;^ Marck •rnv! iin 1 mm m I ^H^BBI m ill 1 959 Capt; COOK'S VoyAGi. March the id the wind died away, and being in lat. 45 dcg. 95 min. and long. 125 dcg, 14 min. we founded with 180 fathom, bu; found no bottom. Wc now began to fe^l thq eflfedts of an alteration in the climate. From intenfe heat it became piercing cold; and our men, who defpifed their Magellan jackets, while within the temperate climates, now fir(^ began to find the comfort of them in fhcfe northern regions, v . t, ,/ . ,, ^,, On the 5th, being moderate weather, wc; founded, and at 56 fathom found bottom, loa- my fand and (hells. At fix in the evening we ihortened fail, and dood all night S* ^ W. with th^ water as white as milk* On the iSth both (hips wore and ftopd N. by £. (hor(ening fail in the evening, jind (landing^ nW night to the fouthward. .; ,., , \ On the 7ch we made the land. Cape Blanco, the wefternmoft known point of Californio, bearing E. N. E, thep di(t^nt about 8 or 9 leagues. It appeared mountainous and covered with fnow. This day the gentlemen in the gun-r room dined on a fricadee of rats, which they apcoijoted a venifon feaft, gnd it was a high treat to the failors, when^vipr they could be lucky enough to catph a puipber fufflcient to make a meal. ' Qn the 8th we wore (hip, find (lood N. E. by £. We had heavy fqualls, with fnow and rain fpr a whole week> and after • ieries of the moft ten)" Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 233 tcmpeftuous weather that ever blew, and in which the Refolution moft miraculoufly efcaped perilhing upon a funken rock, it was the 28th before we could get fight of a bay, wherein we could anchor ; at length we difcovered an inlet, the mouth of which was not mor6 than two miles over, in which we entered, and found it a found which narrowed as we advanced, tho* it ftill continued of a confiderable depth. A* bout 7 in the evening we anchored 97 fathom water, and was prefently joined by the Refolu* tion. We made figns for fome of the natives to come on board; but this they declined, though fome hundreds fcon came about the Ihips, to which they appeared to be no ftran- gers, as they gave us to underftand, that iron was what they valued moft. We obferved like- wife that their weapons were headed \vi;h cop- per, and their arrows with iron, which they could obtain only from the Ruffians, or from trade with he Hudfon's Bay Coniipany, Though they declined coming on board, they were neverthelefs very civil, and when they took their leave falutcd us with a war fong. We were now fo far advanced to the northward and eaftward as to be far beyond the limits of Eu» ropcan Geography, and to have reached that void Ipacc in our maps, which is marked as a country unknown. Early on the morning of the 30th the boats Hvere armed and manned, and both Captains T proceeded /if '» ;' • Mi Iff*. If) I 1 H- "'i 1 . .11 '■'\ 234 Capt. GOOK's VoY'Ac^.. proceeded to examine the. found, in order to find a oonventont place to reHt the fliips which, had fuffered nvaterially in th& violent gales,, which for the laft 20 days they had been com'*' bating, at the hazard of being hourly dafhed to pieces upon the rocks^.. or ilranded upon the fands of this inhofpitable coail. Ill their progrefs they were fortunate enough to difoover a cove the moft convenient that, could be wilhed, the entrance of which was about two cables length, bounded by high land on each fide,, and furnijhed with wood and wa^ ter (now much wanted} fo conveniently fitua- ted, that both could be taken on board at lefa than a cable's length from the fhore;, but, tho* now within the difiance of four miles, it was four o'clock in the evening before we could gee the (hips properly moored, owing to the un- certainty of the weattier, and the violent . gufta to which this coaft is fubjedl:. AH this while the Indians behaved peaceably and . apparently: with much friendfiiip. They brought, after a Ihort acquamtance, a great variety of valuable (kins, fuch as beaver, foxes, racoons, fquirrels, rein-deer, bears, and feveral others, with which we were but little acquainted, but what they chiefly dcfired in exchange, were; cutlery wares of all forts, edge* tools, copper, pewter, iron, brafs, or any kind of .neul, with the ufe of which they were not unacquainted. All our people were now employed in the necefiary re- pairs Capt. cook's Voyage. 235 pairs of the (hips, and in cutting wood and getting vratcr on board, while the gcntlcnien diverted themfelTcs in (hooting and botanizing » when. On the ift of April, about four in the even- ing, there entered the cove a large canoe, in which were 30 armed Indians, who, on their firft appearance, began a war-fong, and when they had finiihed, took to their paddles and rowed rouiid the (hipS, having firft ftript them- felves of their cloathing, except oile man, who (tood upright in the vefTel, delivering an oration^ of which not a man on board could underftand a Word. They paddled round the (hips feveral times, as if led by curiofity, but did not offer to 'moled any of the workmen, nor did thfy oflf^r id trade. All hands were inftantly ordered under arms j when thefe new vilitors were feen to cloath themfcives as before, and to make towards the (hips. The orator made not the leaft hefication i but mounted the (hip's fide, and accoded the Captain with much civility, and after receiving fome prefents, and (lopping a little while to obferve the artificers, he took a very polite leave, dcfcended to his boat, and was landed on the oppofite (hore of the Sound. - On the 3d, a large body of Indians were feen paddling along the Sound, modly armed with fpears from 20 to 30 feet long, and with bows and arrows very f^eatly made. On their near«r approsch they too were heard to tune i T a up M: !'■;;/, 236 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. up their war-fong, and to brandilh their wea* pons, as if in deBance of an enemy. Their number was alarming, there being not lefs thaa between 3 and 400 of them in their war ca- noes, who we apprehended were come to at" tack us ; but we afterwards underdood they were come to attack a body of their enemies on the oppofice (hore^ whom they afterwards en- gaged, and returned viftorious. We were fre- quently viflted by fuch parties, who appeared silways in arms -, but never offer d the lead vio- lence. They brought, befides fkins, great quantities of fiih, with plenty of game, which we purchafed of them for glafs bowls, Ipoking- glalTes, nails, hatchets, or whatever utennis or toys were either ufeful or ornamental. The men were of an athletic make, very rough to appearance, but more civilized than from their afped there was reafon to expeft. To iron they gave the. name of te-tum-minc, and to other metals che-a pote. ^^...* f On the 5th, the water, which was excellent» was fo handily fituated, that by eredting a dage| and conftruding a fpout, we could convey it into cafks in the fliip without farther trouble. This facilitated the labour of the waterers, and (hortened our (lay, as wood was conveyed on board with very little more trouble. On the 6th it blew-a ftqrm, and the tide caiiic rolling in at an alarming race ; it prefently rofe eight or nine feet higher than urml>:j|iid drifted c T * fcvcral :-^v^ Capt. cook's Voyage. 257 fevefal of our materials from the fhore, which ' we never could recover ; and ac nine in the morning the Difcovcry driftcu very near the Kefolution, and very narrowly cfcaped being bulged. "'''^ '^^^* ^- *' ' '^' ' • :-* •'^i/ ' '^^''' ■ On the 7th the artificers again refumed their labour* The natives continued their vifics, and befides Hfh, furs and venifon, brought bladders of oil, which were greedily purchafed by the men. With this they made fauce for their faU-Bfh, and no butter in England was ever thought half fo good. During our ftay here, which was but very fhort, owing to the time lofl in making the land, and the advanced feafon of the year, no people could be more obliging ; they were ready to accompany the gentlemen, who de- lighted in (hooting, in their excurdons, and to (hew them the different devices they made ufe of to catch and to kill their game ; they fold them their mafks, their calls, and their gins, and made no fecret of their methods of curing the fkins, with which they carried on a trafHc with occafional vifitors } in fhorr, a more open and communicative people does not live under the fun. They have, befides fea-fowl in abun- dance, fwans, eagles, and a variety of other land-fowl, of which we had never feen the fpe- cies. Nor were their fifhermen more referved than their hunters j they pointed out the haunts of the different forts of filli, and they were Vf/ T i not 'f ; 1 *_ ''.'i i\ m 4j8 Capt. COOK'S VoYACi: not averfe to helping their new acquaintance to compleat their lading, whenever they had beea unruccefsful in filling their boats. They had not hitherto diicovered any difpo* fition to pilfer ; but on the loth day after our arrival, feveral of them being on board, and our people haying no fufpicion of their honefly, one of them watched his opportunity to (lip into the great cabin, and carry oflf the Captain's watch ; iivhich being foon mifled, all the Indians on board were feized, their boats fecured and fearched ^ and at length it was found hid in a box on board one of their canoes, which the bfiender delivered up without the lead concern. This watch, had he been permitted to carry it off, he probably would have parted with to the firft failor he had met, for a fingle nail. About the fame time another Indian made free with a bolt from the armourer's forge ; but was feen in the £i£l, and an endeavour made to wreft it from him ; but he inftantly jumped over- board, and gave it to one of his companions, who was making off with it, till fired at with fmall fhot, which brought him back, and he furrendered ir, but with fuch a fiercenefs eic- prefied in his countenance as fufiiciently in- dicated his intent. In a moment, every Indian in the cove difappeared, and in lefs than three hours, more than 900 of them afiembled in the found, and being uncloathed (which is their cuftom when they mean to engage) began their war-fong, and approached the (hips. We were Capt. COOK' VoYArr. 239 >ere in readinels to give ch oi a wa n rece • ^Cion; buc feeing our preparations, and { haps not liking our countenance, they all i d down their arms, and putting on their cloatris, came peaceably round the (hip without offer- ing the lead incivility. , Being in great want of mails, mo(t of thofe we brought out with us being fprung, our car- penters were fent into the woods to cut down fuch trees as they Ihould find fit for their pur- pofe. This they did without the lead interrup- tion from any of the inhabitants. They found trees from 100 to 150 feet high, without a knot, and meafuring from 40 to 60 feet in circumfe- rence. In thefe trees the eagles build their nefh. When they had cut down what beft fuited their purpofe, the great difficulty was to bring them to the Ihore •, and in this labour they were alTifted by the natives. It was now their fpring, and the weather began to change for the better ; when we firil arrived the ther- mometer was as low as 387, and now This 20th day of April it is as high as 62 degrees. We have at prefent the full range of the woods *, the fnow all melted away, and the rivers open i we found plenty of game, and catch'd filh in abundance. April 22. This morning we were vifited by a large body of diflant Indians, who had come from a great diftance with furs, and other ar- ticles of trade. Thcfc were warmly cloathed r-r T 4 with 'I . . m »4o Capt. COOK*s Voyage. with coftly cloaks chat reached down to cheif ancles *, and among them was a (lately youth, to whom the reft paid great refpeft* . Him our Captain invited on board, which he at firH: de- clined i but after (hewing him (bme axes, glafs bowls, looking glades, and other articles that excited his curiofity, he fuffered himfelf to be handed into the (hip, where he (tayed fonie time, admiring every thing he faw. While thefe continued to trade, it was remarked, that no other Indians came in fight ; but they had hardly left the (hip, when another body of Indians appeared, more than double the number of the former, who hemmed them all into the cove, and ftript them of every thing they had about them, and then came and traded with us.^ On the 26ch, having fini(hed the repairs of the (hips, we began to prepare for our depar- ture, the tents were ordered to be brought on board, the aftronomers obfervatory, and what live-ftock we had yet left ; and, as the laft fer- vice to be performed, we cut grafs for their fubfiftence, which we were fortunate enough to find in plenty* and to have a pretty good time to make it into hay. We alfo, by the aflift- ance of Mr. Nelfon, whofe bufinefs, as has already been obferved, was to colled the vege- table and other curious produdtions of the coun- tries through which we pafTed, were enabled to (lock ourfelvcs with a large proportion of cu- ;ff T linary Capt. cook's VoyagC. 24f iinary plants, which was of infinite fervice to us in our more northerly progrefs. And now hav- ing ail things in readinefs, we began to tow out of the cove into the found, to which Capr» Cook gavethenameof K.George's Sound, and with a light breeze and clear weather to proceed on our voyage : but we had fcarce reached the found^ when a violent guft from E» S. E. threw us into the utmoft confufion. All our boats were out, our decks full of lumber, and night coming on dark and foggy, our danger was equal to any we had hitherto met with in the courfe of the voyage, though an efpecial Providence feemed to attend us, and to interpofe in our favour-, for by this ftorm a leak was difcovered in the Rc- folution, which* had it been Calm weather^ would probably have proved fatal to the crew. Having cleared the found, we fhaped our courfe to the weftward„ and fo continued till day-light, when, feeing nothing of the Refolution, we Ihortened fail •, and before noon flie came in fight, feemingly in diftrefs. The florm conti* nuing, we purfued our courfe to the north-weft^ ward, till f ' > i- *^v i;.i/» 1 ' May I, when the Weather became fair, and we proceeded with a pleafant breeze. Being now at leifure to recoiled: what obfervations oc- curred at the harbour we have juft left, the cu* rious reader will not be difpleafed with a fhort relation. When we firft arrived in the found, the rough countenance of the men feemed to promife no very agreeable entertainment during our >\Ui 444 Capt. cook's Voyaoe. our day ; but when they faw our diftrefs, and that we only meant to repair our (hips, To far from giving us any difturbance, they gave us every afliftance in their power j they fupplyed us regularly with fifh, and, when they found that our men liked their oil, they brought it in bladders, and exchanged it for whatever they pleafcd to give for it. They difcovered no pro- penfity to thieve, till they found we were pre- paring to depart, and then they were fo covetous of our goods, that they could not refill the temptation, when a fair opportunity offered, to carry off whatever fell in their way. The cove, in which we anchored, we found to lie in 49 deg. 33 min. N. and in 23^deg. 16 min. £. but whether the RulTian difco- veries had reached fo far, we could not be able to determine-, that the inhabitants were no ftrangers to the ufe of iron and other metals was, as has already been obferved, vifible on our Brll approach ; but by their manner of ufing what they poflfeiTed, it was not eafy to dif« cover from what quarter it came. In the litu* tion we were in, we did not think it fafe to ven- ture far into the country, having no fpare hands to attend us. Of their houfes we faw but few ; aiid of their manner of living we know but lit- tle. That they eat the flelh of their enemies we had fome reafon to fuppofe, by obferving a human head in one of their canoes, and arms and limbs in another ^ that fi(h, and the flefh of >\ ^', Capt. €0OK's Voyage. 24^ of the animak they catch in hunting are the principal part of their food, is not to be doubt- ed •• their bread is made from the rows of fi(h» but in what manner they prepared it, we could not learn ; their fauces chieBy feal-biubber or oil I we faw none of their houfes near the fliprc^ by which it (hould feem that their winters are fcvere, and that they chufe the receffes of the woods for fhelter as well as fafrty. Their houfes were all built of wood, and huog round with dried fi(b, and (kins of various animals. They have different mafks for different purpofcs -, fome they put on when they go to war, which are really frightful; fome that cover their whole bodies, and give them the appearance of the animals they are in purfuit of» whole cries* while they are young, they are taught to imitate 1 they have decoys excellently adapted for entrap- ping both H(h and fowl ; and they have fnares likewife for fnaring wild beads, and contrivances for kilting them as foon as they are catched. We faw no plantation^ which exhibited the lead trace of knowledge in the cultivation of the earth ; all feemed to remain in a pure (laic of nature ; ftirubs there were in the woods that put forth blolfoms i and trees that promifed ia time to bring forth fruit 5 but except fome cur- rant bulhes, wild rafberries and junipers, we faw none bearing fruit thgt were known CO any but Mr. Nclfon. ?.-' > » t «- ■.rt . t . -J- , Tht ' '1; %44 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. "" The men were not ill made, but they disfi- gured themfelves with greafe and coarfe paint j they were of a dark copper colour, with lank black hair, which they tied in a knot behind, but they fo bepowdered, or rather befeathered it with down, that the colour was hardly difcerna- ble ; their cloathing was a cloak made of fkins of beafts, which covered them from the neck to their knees, and gave them a favage appear- ance } fome of them wore high fur caps *, but the chiefs among them had their heads drefTed in a more becoming manner. In that confided their chief diftindlion. Their heads were bound round with fillets, decorated with feathers* \vhich adds fo (Iriking a grace to the human fi- gure, that almofl every nation in the known world have agreed, in making plumes of fea- thers a part of their warriors drefs. Their weapons of war were fpears from 20 to 30 feec longi their bows about three feet and a half ; their arrows two feet, pointed with bone or flint, fomc few with iron •, but they had one horrid weapon peculiar to themfelves, refembling a man's head with hair ; it had eyes and nofe, but where the mouth fhould be, a fharp piece of bone or flint about fix inches long was firmly morticed and cemented ; in the neck part was a hole, through which they pafTed aflrongcord, and faftened ic to the right arm ; this we faw none of the warriors without ; many of them had befidcs, a knife about twelve inches long, of of Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 245 of which they were very choice. Wc faw no mufical inilrumenc .among them & but fome had mufical voices, and Teemed fond of dancing and : tumbling in a bearidi way. Their canoes were of an uncommon length, many .of them from 30 to 40 yards long, made of the main body of one of their enormous trees, of which wc have already fpoken ; their breadth from four to five feet over in the middle, and gradually narrowing, like all others to both ends, but the ftem much higher than the .ftern. They were flrengthened by bars of wood placed acrofs ac certain dillances, and were rowed by paddles about fix feet long, fharp at the lower ends. Some of thofe canoes were roughly carved and painted with the figures of the fun, moon, and Hars, probably the objefls of their worlhip ^ but what was remarkable, they had no out- riggers to prevent their overfetting, like thofe in fouthern iHes. ^^^ The women are much more delicate than the men, and drefs in cloaks curiouOy woven with the hair of wild beads, intermixed with thq moft beautiful furs. We faw but few of them during our ilay, and thofe who came in fight were rather in years j they were, however, much fairer than the men •, and even fairer than many of the men we had on board. Their cmploy- fnent feems chiefly confined at heme. We faw none of them employed in filhing ; nor did wc rnect any of them in the woods, Bcfidcs the care r-^S i rl, iL'H -i 94^ Cam', coo K* sr VoVaoe'. care of their children, and the noftnufaduring' and making the cloathing, th^y may probably afiid in curings and preparing the fkins^ with> ^Kich theftf people certainly carry* on a traffic With flranger^ *, though of that trade, for want df underftanding their language, we could not fufficiently inform ourfelves. Be that as it may, ii^hen we left rhc harbour, we had mote than ' 300 beaver fkins on boards befidcs other Ids yaliiable fkins of fbxfcs, racoons, wolves; bears, deer and feveral oiher^^ild ahimals; for dogs excepted, Tfe faw no other domeftic creatures tbout them. But td return. On May the I'ft, in the morning, the weather being fine, we fpoke with the Refolution, who informed us of the danger they were in of foun- dering in the Itttegale, by a leak, which increafed fo faft upoft them, that^ it baffled the utmoft ^ortsm>;^Uki I'.Zfff C^a?ia/aeJcAyi 'ian Cyut"/^ ^ *■ ' ' ra,i p. 2*9 V Capt. cook's Voyage. 249 that gave them the appearance of having a dou- ble mouth. Add to this, the ornaments they wore in their nofes and ears, of tin and cop- per, and no figures upon earth could be more grotefque. However, they behaved civilly, and it being near night they took their leave, promifing to vifit us again in the morning,- which they accordingly did, bringing with them the very fame forts of flcins which we had pur-^ chafed of the Indians at our former harbour, and which they readily parted with for ahy thing m^dc of irori, though ever fo trifling. Thefe were cloathed with the Ikins of wild beads neatly fewed together, and they had befides a covering made like parchment, which in rainy or fnowy weather was water-proof-, fo that no wet could efFeft them. Their ordinary canoes too had coverings of the fame kind. "' They had fome inftruments for fiihing, which we did not obferve among the more foutheriy Indians, fuch as harpoons, and giggs, all of which they were very ready to part with, as well as their cloathing, of which, though valuable to lis, they made but little account. Thefe were chiefly purchafed by the failors", who found them warmer, and better adapted to the climate than any of their other cloathing. They had fpears headed with iron, very neatly manufadlured, and knives, which they kept ai bright as filver j but thele they retufcd to ex- change for any thing we offered, ''*'• U Ivi 25© Capt. cook's Voyage. In the morning of the 13th we weighed and purfued our courfe to the northward up the ftrait all day, with the pleafing hope of having found the paflage, of which wc were in fearch. In our way wc pafled feveral very fine rivers that emptied their waters into that which we were now exploring. About four in the afternoon, we came to an anchor in 18 fathom water, and were furrounded with Indians who came to trade. Here, being fafely moored juft oppo- fite to a fmall riVulet of excellent water, the boats were ordered out to fill the empty cafks, and the carpenters from both (hips were fet to work to find out the leak in the Refolution i and after a moft painful fearch, a hole was difco- vered in the (hip's fide, eaten quite through by the rats ; which, by the working of the (hip in the dorm, had providentially filled with rub- bilh, and thereby prevented her foundering. On the 14th, while we were employed on this neccflary fervice, we were vifited by crouds of Indians, perfuading us to proceed ; but our pinnace being ordered out, with boats to attend her, in order to examine the (trait, it was found it be only an inlet through which there was no palTage for (hips to any other fea* To our great difappointment, therefore, after continuing here eight days, in which time every part of the found had been fearched, we took our leave of it, Capt. Cook giving it the name of Sandwich's Sound. K .J- L , On the 20th, we returned to fea, and (lood " along- led the ing rch. /crs were oon, acer, le to ppo- , the :a{ks, *et to i and difco- ghby : ihip I rub- ed on rouds t our tcend found as no great g here f the ave of wich*s ftood lalong- Capt. COOK'S Voyage; 251 along-fhore to the wcftward, where we faw land trending as far as S. by £. very high, and the hills covered with fnow. We then ftood S, andS4.E. On the aift we came up with the fouthern- moft point we had feen the day before, and opened on a fine bay, which trended full to the eaftward, with very high land on both fides. We founded, in 34 fathom water gravelly bottom ; then tacked and (leered the whole night N. E. by E. In the morning of the 2 2d we tacked again, and ftood to the weft ward. On the 23d, the weather being clear and pleafant, and there being little or no wind the boats were ordered out, and all hands were em- ployed in fifhing, except this gentleman, who preferred the diverfion of fhooting. On the 24th a ftift* breeze fprung up, at- tended with very heavy fqualls, with fnow and rain, in which we carried away our main top- gallant- maft in the flings, and received other damage in our fails and rigging. We were now two degrees farther to the fouthward, fteering as the land trended, and examining every bay and inlet as we pafted along. On the 25th we altered our courfc, to N. by W. the Main trending away to N. E. high and mountainous. At noon we pafled fome large iflands, bearing from W. S. W. to N. W. by- W. but foon loft fight of them in a great fog. On the 26th, at ^ A. M. we perceived the U a land Ij-. ! : AL m-ti l> 1 II ■1 f i 252 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. land very high on both fides of us E. and W. and faw two burning mountains at a confidera- ble diftance. As the fog cleared up, we found ourfelves in the entrance of a vaft river, fup- pofed to be about four miles over, with a ftrong current fetiing to the fouthward. *i't>or : ' " On the 27th we found the river to widen as we advanced, and the land to flatten. Wc con- tinued under an ealy fail all day and the fol- lowing night, founding as we advanced from 30 to 40 fathom, (helly bottom and white fand. We were once more flattered with having found the paflage, of which we were in puifuit, be- ing now in the latitude ot 60 degrees north. On the 28th, in the morning, wcfnunded at 24 fathom, the tide ftill fetting ftrong to the fouthward at the rate of five and fix knots an hour ; but the wind dying away, the fignal was made for cafting anchor, when both fhips came to in 26 fathom water; but the Refolii- tion expecting to come to with her fmall ftream anchor, let the whole run out and loft both an- chor and hauflTer, befides the fhip's grapnel in looking for it. About 8 at night, the figrlal was made to weigh and fail ■, but at ten the current ran fo Itrong, that both (hips were a- gain obliged to caft anchor in 24 fathom, bot- tom the fame as before. It was now light all night, and we could perceive the river to make W. N. W. very rapid. .ft^i^*!,^* On the 29th we made fail with a frcfti wind^ and ady^inced apace, but on trying the water bvA ' ■ » U..' , we figf^al rn the rere a- bot- tht all make water we Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 253 we found a great alteration from fait to frelh. This day we were vifitcd by fcveral Indians, who brought fkins, which they exchanged for trifles. In the night we obferved they made large fires ; but the flames from the two burn- ing mountains feemed to darken their light. We were yet at a great diftance from them. We found regular foundings all this day, till opening into a large wide extended bay, the water (hallowed, and we call anchor in nine fathom water, brown fand and (hells as before. Here the boats were ordered out, and after a fruitlefs fearch to find a pa(rage, founding from two to fpur fathom, with the water quite fre(h, they returned in the morning, and were taken on board. In the evening they renewed their labour, founding to the north eaftward, as the day before they had founded in the oppofite diredtion. Here they difcovered a large river, the entrance of which bore from the (hips N. E, by N. but found that it trended away to N. W. with high land on both fides, and with found- ings from 8 to 3 {^ fathom. This they exa- mined for more than 20 miles. It abounded with fi(h and fowl ; but thoiiy^h the land was high on bjth fides, moft part of the way, they faw neither houfe nor inhabitant. The water was fre(h, and the current rapid -, all hopes there- fore ot a communication with any other Tea in this palTage vani(hed ; and the fnips returned to fea again by the fame channel. In the mean time, while the boats were founding, a party cf us U ^ with n i ii^lp 254 Capt. C00K*» Voyaob. with the two Captains at our head, attended by a ferjeant's guard of marines, landed on the eafternmoft (hore, in order to take the diver- lion of (hooting, and to reconnoitre the coun^ try. We had proceeded more than four miles -without feeing one inhabitant, and were going to fcour the woods for game, when a body of Indians, to the number of fixtyj ruflied out of an adjoining thicket, all armed after their man- ner with bows and fpears *, a few of our ma- rines difcharged their pieces over their heads, which indantly ftopt their career ; and they were retreating as rapidly as they came on, when Capt. Cook advancing fingly, grounded his piece, and made (igns for them to halt. One who fcemcd to have the command of the reft, turning fuddenly about, obferved his motions, and underftood them i and calling to the refl:, they all (lopt, and, after a (hort confultation, laid down their arms, and (tripping themfclves quite naked, laid their cloaihes down by them. This we underftood they did, to (how that they bad no arms concealed. We then advanced, and entered into a kind of dumb difcourfe, of which we could underhand enough to know that they wanted us to accompany them to their town, which we very readily did ; they very deliberately put on their cloaths, and then (hewed us the way. When we arrived we found a number of wretched huts, with women and children, old men and dogs, who, at fird fight of us, were » , more "'PI, i. very then Capt. cook's VoYAGt. 25 J more frightened than their mafters, hanging their tails, and fneaking away. One of thefe Capt. Cook purchafed. Thefe huts confided of nothing but long poles, rudely con(lru(5led into the form of a hovel, and covered over with heathy earth. For a door, they had a hole jud large enough to creep in ar, which^ in cold weather, they clofe with a kind of faggot. Thefe inner apartments were holes or pits dug in the earth, and divided like (lalls in a ftable. .Their furniture we did not furvey. We faw feme bladders full of blubber or fat hanging about, and fome (kins of beads i alio dried Bdi in plenty ; we likewife faw feveral wooden utenfils, befides their arms ; and we faw quantities of fait in wooden troughs. They had dried Bedi too, probably the remains of their winter provi- (ions, which we underdood they eat raw, and fome of which they cfTered us for dinner. In thefe huts or holes they burn no fire; but in the winter they fhut them- felves up clofe, and have lamps, which they continually keep burning : for here, during the winter months, they Icarce ever, fee the fun. We were not a l!ttle furprifed at the fight of fome of their children, wl^o were as fair, and their fkins as white as thoic of many children in England j their dark coppery com- plexion is therefore owing to their anointing and greafing their children when they are young, and expofing them to all weathers while they ha/c light, and fliutting them in their fmoaky U 4 caverns '!'* ))' '-f ■'■«: 2^6* Capt. COOK'S VoYAGfi. caverns when it is dark. We found no differ-' cncc between the people in this found, and thofe we have defcribed in the other. Having gra- tified our curiofity we returned to our ftiips; and having nothing farther to detain us, On the I ft of June, in the afternoon, wc fet fail. Wc were new in lat. 6i deg. 15 min. N. and in long. 209 deg. 55 min. E. many leagues within land, and it was not till the 6th that we cleared the channel. ' '*" On the 4th, being his majefty's birth-day, we kept as a day of rejoicing. ' On the 5th we paflTed the burning mountains. The 6th we cleared the ftrait to the unfpeak- able joy of the failors, who, during the whole time from our entrance till our return, workt* with incredible labour, anchoring and weighing as the winds and the tide afforded oppoitunity. During our pafTagc we had frequent interviews with the natives, who, the nearer we approached the fhore, were better cloathed, and (hewed feme rnanufadures of their own, and oiher na- tions ; and were in pofTcfTion of a greater va- riety of Ikins than thofe within land, which were ftrong indications of a foreign trade, but by what conveyance carried on, ail our endea- vours at this time could not difcovcr. On this day our courfc was S. K. On the 7th we (lood S. by E {E. and about 2 P. M. we palled two very large iflands, hav- ing palTcd fcveral fmall onct, before. Wc con- tinued Capt. e O O K's Voyage. 257 tinued this courfe with vtfry little variation till the loth, when the Refolution, in coatting a- 4oDg the main, ran foul of a dangerous reef, that appeared juft above water clofe under her lee bow. Her good fortune (till accompanied her, for Ihe (lid oflF without damageorjj nxj On the nth we were alarmed by ti.j clafh^ ing of the waves, as if fome great building was tumbling in, and, looking round the (liip, we fav/ ourfclves involved among (hoals of fcais and fea-lions, who prelently fet up the moft frightful how lings that poffibly can be con- ceived ; at the fame time we obfervcd a large whale to pafs along, at which we fired a fwivel, but without effed. We this day flood to the north-eaft as the land trended. •^-^ ^" • On the 1 2th we purfued the fame courfe, and (aw the land bear N. E- to a great diflance* The extreme of theeaftward point bore E.S.E. On the 13th, at 2 P- M. we altered our courfe, and ftood to the fouth. , On the 14th in the morning we faw the eaft- ward point diftant 7 or 8 leagues, lat. 56 deg, 23 min. long. 205 deg. 16 mia. We directed our courle alon^-fhore. , .' * i .' K-, , / . )► On the i'3tli, the weather hazy, we loft fight of land, foLuuied and found i.o ground at 100 fathom. A ilorm came on, and both fliips ftood to fa. On tlie i6ch it abated, the weather clear, ftood W. 5. W* with a Ilili" breeze. ., ,. ,. . On m^ 258 Cam. cook's Votaoe. On the 17th flood in, and faw land trend S. i E. as far as the eye could carry. We were now about 2 leagues diftant from the ihore, which was covered with geefe, ducks, Ihags and Tea- fowls innumerable. On the 18 th we coafted along- (hore, and l^afled many dangerous rocks and (hoals, which we faw projeft from the main into the fea to t great diftance. We were now in lat. f^deg. 26min. long. 200 deg. 58 min. E. and about 3 p. M. had paflTed all the land to the South- ward, when, being within half a mile of the mafn, we obferved three canoes making to- wards us, in which were fix Indians* When they came along fide, they made figns for us to drop our anchors, intimating, that the people onfliore would be glad to fee us ; at the fame time we thought we heard the report of a gun. Little notice, however, was taken of what paffed. The people from the gang- way talked with the men, one of whom made figns for let- ting down a rope, to which he tied a neat box, curioufly made up with a fmall twine ; for which he would take nothing in return* The man who took it in looked upon it as a great cu- riolity, and, after the Indians were gone, be- gan to examine the contents, when a note was found in the infide, which was immediately carried to the Captain, and a confultation was held on the quarter-deck to cndeivour to decy- phcr the contents 5 but none on board the Dif- covery Capt. cook's Voyage. 259 covcry could make out a letter. The (hip was then hove-to, three guns fired, and a jack hoifted at the maft-head for flopping the Re- folution. This being obferved, all on board were ftruck with fear for the fafety of the Dif- covery, thinking that fome fatal difafter had happened, and that fhe was going to the bot- tom. Their boat was inftantly hoifted out, and Mr. Williamfon, 3d Lieutenant, came in all hade to learn the caufe. With him our Cap- tain returned, and related what had happened, and fhcwcd Capt. Cook the note, who likewife held a confultation upon it, and it was handed from the quarter-deck to the gang-way, where every man in the fhip might fee it, but not a man could make out Jmore than fomething like the date 1778, of which they were not clear. We therefore continued our courfe along the coaft as the land trended i but faw no opening nor any inhabitants. About midnight, we faw a vaft flame afcend from a burning mountain, and obferved fcveral fires within land. Lat. by obfervation, 54deg. 4; min. N. long. 197 dcg. 52 min. E. On, the 20th early in the morning, looking out a-head, we faw fomething like a reef be- fore us, and fired a gun for the Rclolution to tack ; happy that day-light had enabled us to efcape the danger. On the 2 1 ft we ftccred S. W ; but at 8 A. M. finding the land to trend more to the fouthward. 1 f ;■ h ^H 26o Capt. cook's Voyage; we altered our courfe to S. S. W. The extreme of the land in fight bearing W. by S. fevcn or eight leagues, very high land and much fnow. About two in the afternoon we came again in fight of the two burning mountains which we had before feen, but at a great diftance, bear- ing N. W. by N. Our courfe during the night was S. S. W. During the courfe of this day, the weather being fair, and but little wind, the men were employed in filhing, and in lefs than four hours caught more than thiee ton weight of cod and holybut, fome of the latter more than a too pounds weight. On the 22d our men were employed in fak- ing and barrelling qp, for future ufe, what the (hip's company could not confume while frelli, which proved a moft acceptable fupply. All this day we kept our courfe S W. by S. , , On the 23d in the evening we Ihaped our courfe more to the weft ward, the weather thick and hazey. On the 24th, little wind and hazey. Saw no land 5 but, looking over the (hip's fide, ob- fcrved the water to change colour to a milky white. Sounded, and found ground at 47 fa thorn. About 4 P. M. we faw two very high iflands bearing N. W. diftf nee about 5 leagues, and could difcern the main land contiguous, "We bore away under the lee of the wefternmoft and continued ftccring; all night S. by E. ^ - ■•(f i.> On Capt. cook's Voyage. 261 On the 25th, in the morning We changed our courfe, fteering S. W« as the land trended. At ten the fame morning we had a full view of the land, for many miles but faw no fignl of houfes or inhabitants ; but doubtlefs, tho' the country appeared rugged and barrren, and in many places white with fnow, there were many people in the inland parts. About y in the evening we could i^c land at a great didancei^ bearing due fouth, which had the appearance of a large ifland. Hitherto we had been ex- ploring the coafts of an unknown continent, unknown at leaft toour European geographers i though we (hall fee by the fequel, that it was not wholly unexplored by the Afiatic Ruffians. Towards tiight^ tho-' it had been perfeflly clear all day, the air began to thicken, and by 10 at night, the fog was fo thick that we could not fee the fhip's length. We kept firing guns, burning falfe fires, and (landing off land all night; as did the Refolution^ and in the morn- in'g of the i "r 26th, when tKefogdlfperfed, we found our- felvcs in a deep bay, furrounded by high lands^ and almoft afhore under a high mountain, which we had not before difcovered. Both (hips in- ftantly dropt anchor in 24. fathom water, blew muddy bottom within two cables length of the (bore, and among (hoals and breakers, from which we moft miracufouHy efcaped. For fome time we ftood in amazement how we could po(ribly ■V: "*1:-;1 262 Capt. COOK'S VovAGi; polTibly get into fuch a frightful fituation. But being in it, for our own ikfety we moored both ihips ; and happy it was we ufed that precau- tion i for a gale came on, when our whole ex* iflence depended upon the goodnels of our cables. On the 27th, at 3 A. M. it ceafed blowing, and the weather began to clear. At 6 we unmoored, and failed under clofe reefed top- fails, direding our courfe N. W. for an open- ing we faw at about a league dillance, but at nine the wind d^ing away, we anchored again in 25 fathom water, loamey fand. It being a dead calm our boats were ordered out, and fome gentlemen went on (hore to examine the land. In their fearch they found fomething like an Indian manfion, being a deep pit funk in the earth, with fome poles placed acrofs it after their manner, and covered with fods and a hole to creep into it about two feet iquare. In it they found the bones of dried fifh, and of birds, and near it a place where there had been a fire, but all had the appearance of being long defcrted. They alfo found the rib of a whale about eight feet long, which it was not cafy to account how it could come there. About noon the gentlemen returned on board, and a breeze fpringing up from the eaftward, we weighed and took leave of this dangerous bay, co which Cape. Cook gave the name of Providence Bay, as it was owing to providence thai we were here , : .-' ' mira' breeze eighed which e Bay, e here mira- CaPT. COOK'S VOYACB. 26^ mnraculoufly prefervcd from pcrilhing. We had pleafant weather all day, and the land high all round tts. We (bunded ail the afternoon from 18 to 36 fathom, mbftly ^ndy bottom. In the evening we faw a large body of Indians towing « whale which they had ftruck, who were too buly to mind us tiH late, when two canoes came along fide and traded. Wc were fur- prizod when they aflced us for tobacco, and more fo when they (hewed us (ome, together with (huff in their boxes. As tobacco was a precious comnrrodlty on board, we could fpare them little, but for thai little they were thank- ful, and departed. We pafTed (everal iflands to the eaftward, very high and mountainous. On the 28th in the morning Mr. Nelfon, ac- companied by feveral other gentiemeny went on fliorc botanizing *, they found great variety of plants and flowers peculiar to the country, be(kies others with which wc were all well ac- quainted, fuch as primrofes, violets, currants, rafberries, juniper and many other northern fruits, which were now all in blofTom. They found alfo a bird's ncft, with five fmall eggs, not unlike a fparrow's. After fome ftay they came again on board, and the wind dying a- way, and the Refolution having got far a-head, our boats were employed in towing us, when a (Irong current meeting us right a-head baffled their endeavours. This current ran with fuch iiorce that the Refolution, unable to Hem it, ' . caft I ^n'«. i'>*j 264 Capt; cook's Vovaob. caft anchor, and foon after was joined by the pifcovcry. Here feveral canoes came from the land to trade, and made figns for more tobacco, of which our own men were in great want. About noon we opened on a fine harbour to the weflvyard of us i but we were the whole after- noon in working up the Race, ^s it was called, from the rapidity of its motion, and the ftrength with which it fet againft us. Our firft attempt to ftem. it proved fruitlefs. We were driven as far back as the place from whence we fet out. On the tide's turning in our favour, we made a fecond attempt and fucceeded. About fix in the evening, we caft anchor in i?. fathom wa- ter, and loon after came to moorings. We were, in lefs than an hour, furrounded with more than 30 canoes, with rock fi(h and dried falnion, which they exchanged for beads, fmall pai)§, or any thing we offered them. f v On the 29th, the boats were employed in watering the (hips, and the fail-makers, &c. began to over haul the rigging, and all hands were employed in different repairs. In the mean time feveral Indians hovered round the fillips with fifh ready dreflfed, which they pre- fented to any indifcriminatcly who would ac- cept them i but would take nothing in return, except tobacco or inuff were oflTered them ; nei- ,ther did they offer to fteal or take any the moft trifling thing away ; and what was remarkable not a wom^^n was to be feen, nor did any come iU:» near r*. Capt. cook's Voyage; 265 near the (hip during our flay. Our Captain taking notice of two that feemed fuperior to the red, he invited them on board, and with much intreaty prevailed on them to enter. He made them prefents of a few beads, and two or three hands of tobacco each, for which they in the moil fubmilTive manner expreffed their grati- tude. All this while our botanill and his at< tendants were bufily employed, and fent plenty of celery and other wholefome herbs on board, as well for the ufe of the great cabin, as for thofe of the fubordinate tables down even to the lowed of the fhip's company. - • ' On the ill of July the fignal was given to unmoor ; but, the wind (hifting to N. N. £. it was July the 2d, before we. could clear the har- bour, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Providence Harbour, in lat. 54. deg. 18 min. but more of this hereafter. About noon, we faw the land trend to E. S. E. we hauled up to E. N. E. and continued all night in that courfc. - On the 3d, at 2 A.M. we wore Ihip, and Hood to the fouthward till day- light, and then tacked, and ftecred E. N. E. At noon we faw the extreme of the land, bearing E. 1 S. On the 4th, at 2 A. M. we (leered N.N.E. At ten founded at 70 fathom, blue mud, (helly bottom. At noon we had an obfervation, lat. 55 deg. 48 min. N. long. 195. 34. Courfc all night N. E. ' i,,^ >^ ^.'-'i^sj: ^^^ 4, , r , . - X-. Oa m f! 266 Capt. cook's Voyage. On the 5th, we faw the land very low and even, trending away to the fouthward of the eaft. We were diftant from the ncnhernmofl: fhore 3 or 4 leagues, and from this day we be- gan founding till our arrival in watering harbour. This day all hands employed in Bfhin'g; and as our people were now put on 2-thirds aliowance» what each catched he might eat or fell. For- tunate for them, they caught fome tons of fine fi(h which proved a mod feafonable fupply 5 for the (hip provifions, what with fait and mag* gots eating into the beef and pork, and the rats, and weavils devouring the heart of the bread, the one was little better than putrid flclh, and the other, upon breaking, would crumble into dull. At noon, this day, we dire(5led our courfe N. N, E. being now in lat. 57. deg. 4 min. long, 199 deg. 40 min* On the 6th we continued the fame courfe, and, founding, found ground at 12 fathom. We tacked, and (toed to the S. E. and, founding again, found ground at 3 *- fathom. We were now in Bhering's Straits. We tacked again and ftood Co the north, having had another pro- vidential efcape from running upon the rocks. We were now in a molt perilous and laborious navigation, which would afford little entertain- ment to the generality of readers. Till The 15th we continued founding and tacking night and day, in moll: tempefbuous weather, and through a Race of lliallow water, with a ftrong ^^ cur- 1 I ■ >: i| and the moft e be- bour. id as ance> For. f find pplyj mag* bread* 1) and le into courfe .long, X lourfe, ithom. inding were again, tr pro- rocks, >orlous lertain- icking ir, and Iftrong cur- Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 267 current againft us, when, about ten in the morn- ing, the weather clear and fine, we came t6 an anchor in 1/ fathom water, lat. 58 deg. 20 min* long. 1 97 deg. 51 min. Here the cutters from both fhips were xnanned, and all the gentlefnen went on (horc. We faw no other inhabitants but bears and foxes, and fome wild deer ; we heard in the adjoining woods the bowlings and yeliings of wolves and other wild beafts ; but thought it neither f^v^ nor feafonable to purfue them. After fpending the greateft part of the day in botanizing with Mr. Neifon, we returned on board i leaving on the b!utf part / a rock a bottle behind us, in which were e.ciofed ^ome blue and white beads with j aote of the ihips names, the date when lefi, by whom, and on what expedition. We were no fooner returned than a breeze fprang up, when we weighed, and again made fail, with the fhips heads W.N.W. We continued founding, and on *- _ . The 1 6th, the water /hallowed fo fafl, that it was thought prudent to drop anchors again, and to fend the boa^ i ."ut with a compafs to ex- amine the ftrait to a confiiderable diftance a-head. In half an hour a gun was fired from the boats, as a fignal net to proceed, and the man at the maft-head faw land appear juft above water This proved a barren fpot, not above an acre wide, with nothing but fliells and the bones of fifhes on it. The boats having founded from W. to N. W. by N, from two to one X 2 fathom ■ ■ 'A '§'1: 268 Capt. COOK*s Voyace. . fathom and a half, returned with their report, that no paiTage could be found in that direction. From this day to the 20th the boats were continu- ally founding in all directions amidd the moft dreadful temped of thunder, lightning and hail, that ever blew ; but fuch was our danger, that Capt. Cook himfelf Ihared in all the labour ; and what added to our misfortune the Refolu- tion parted her beft bower within ten fathom of the anchor, and it was wonderful chat (he was not wrecked. v On the 1 7th all hands that could be fpared were employed in fweeping for the anchor, but in vain ; being quite worn down with fatigue, they were forced to give over, and men from • the Difcovery were ordered to fupply their places. , . -^ , , . On the 1 8 th the anchor was recovered, when every officer on board both (hips was obliged to do the duty of common men. No pen can defcribe our danger from the horrible ficuation we were in. The 19th was wholly employed in founding, without fuccefs. On the 2cth Capt. Cook himfelf, in found- ing to the S. E. found a narrow channel, regu- lar foundings, from 8 to 10 fathom. Hope took place of dcfpair, and all hands returned to their labour with frefh fpirits. We preicntly weighed, and purfued our courfe with a fine breeze. The day continuing clear, at noon we had Capt. cook's Voyage. 269 had an obfervation in lat. 59 deg. 37 min. long. 197 deg. 16 min E. This day we were vifited by fome Indians, who had little to part with, except fome dried Bfh and their cloaks. On the 2 1 {I, about noon, both (hips brought to, the wind and current both uniting to oppofe our progrefs. On the 2 2d we were overjoyed, on founding, to find the fea deepen to 40 fathom j but, be- fore night that joy was much damped by a pro- digious fall of fnow, of which it was with dif- ficulty that the deck could be kept clear, iho* the watch was conftantly employed in (hovel- ling it off during the night. This weather con- tinued till ;-^^^- -: V. .» w.. .. • The 26th, when it began to clear up. On the 27th, we had clear weather, and re- gular foundings, from 25 to ^5 fathom water, white fandy bottom. . ' On the 29th, the man at the maft-head cal- led out land very high, diilance about 2 leagues right a-head« We tacked and ftood off. • ' On the 30th we continued along-fhore, courfe N. N. E. to N. E. founding in very unequal depths from 10 to 30 fathom. Auguft the I ft, the fea began again to deepen, but the land trending to the fouthward obliged us to change our courfe. We were now in lat* 61 deg. 14 min. N. long. 191 deg. 33 min. E. X3 :«'tv c;» On 2;o Capt. cook's Voyage. On the 2d we again bore away N. W. all the morning, and at noon tacked to N. E. by N, which courfe we purfued till ' The 3d, when we flood N. N. E. This courfe we purfued, with a little variation to the caftward, till the evening, when we faw land, bearing S. W. The 4th at noon, founding from 15 to 20 fathom, we came again in fight of land, which bore from us W. to N. 4 E. At noon we found- ed, and found only 8 4- fathom. In the even- ing we came to an anchor in 15 fathom. On the 5th, word was brought us from the Refolution, of the death of Mr. Anderfon, the furgeon. His funeral was performed with the iifual fea ceremonies, and our furgeon, Mr. Law, was appointed in his place ; and Mr. Sam- uel, furgeon*s mate of the Refolution, fucceeded Mr. Law. This day we came to in 12 fathom water, under the lee of a fmall but high ifland, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Sledge Idcind, as a fledge and the remains of an Indian town were found upon it •, but no inhabitants. There were likewife found fome Indian fnow- fhoes. Mr. Nclfon, and his afibciatcs found great quantities of wild celery, and a kind of wild fetch or chichilling, of which the fliip's company made the proper ufe. We were now in lat. 64 dcg. 44 min. long. 192 deg. 42 min. Early on the 6th we weighed, and ftood W. by N. As we coafled along fliore, feveral In- dians dians Capt. cook's Voyage. 271 dians were leen on the oppofice fide of the ifland, who were, to all appearance, preparing to pay us a vjfit. We hove-to •, but, after waiting an hour, and none coming, we continued our courfe. We foon came again into fliallow water, found- ing from 4 to fix fathom water, fix leagues from the main land. On the 8th we had a violent ftorm of hail, rain and fnow, which continued all the morn- ing i but the wind dying away about noon, wc were drifted to leeward clofe in Ihore, under a very high track of main land, and among rocks and breakers. Both fliips inftantly came too in Q fathom water, the Refolution with her bed bower, and the Difcovery with her coafting an- chor. Fortunately a breeze fprung up in our favour, and relieved us from this perilous fitu- ation. Seeing the land trend away to the N.W. we directed our courfe accordingly, till, having doubled the wefternmolt point, we (leered again to the eaftward, ;, ,{,. , ^ _ , On the 9th about 2 A- M. we came agaih to an anchor, a ftrong current from 5 to 6 knots an hour fetting againft us -, but the fliips pitch- ing bows under, and the water from the upper deck running, as through a fieve, to the lower deck, in lefs than half an hour, every thing be- tween decks was afloat •, To that the poor men had not a dry rag to put on. This obliged us to weigh as fail as polTibie •, but, in our fitua- tion, that was a work of no iVnall labour and ,, r X 4 dilH- fr 1 M li In 272 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. difficulty, as at this time many of oqr hands, through fatigue, and being conftantly expofed to the rain and fnow, and in a damp fhip, were ill of colds, attended with flow fevers, which rendered them incapable of duty. Out of 70 hands, officers included, we could only mufter 20 to the capftern. We had with difficulty weighed our fmall bower, and had made two unfuccefsfui attempts at the fheet anchor, when the Refolution left us, making all the fail flie could carry, to furmount the current. We were now in the utmoft diftrefs \ but by contriving feveral additional purchafes we at laft fucceeded, but we had the misfortune to have two of our ableft hands wounded, and it was next to a mi* racle, that none were killed. The Refolution was now out of fight, but, judging our diftrefs, (he lay to amidft a clufter of iflands, of which we told no lefs than feven very fmall but very high. As foon as we came in fight, fhe made fail, and we followed with all the fait we could crowd till about midnight, when we were fur- prifed by a fudden fquall, which fplit our main top-fail, and fliivered our jeb to ribbons j it was, however, of fliort continuance. On the lOth, we had fine weather and a calm fea, and were proceeding at a great rate, when, unexpectedly, we opened into a deep bay, where we faw at the diftance of a few leagues, a large Indian town, of which, probably, our Com- snodore was in fearcb, as the KuOlans, in their late Capt. cook's Voyage. 273 ate difcoverics, had found a town upon the extremity of the Afiatic coaft, to which they had given the name of Helenefki ; but called by the natives '-- . This bay, by ^ obfervation, lies in lat. 66 deg. 27 min. N. and in long. 18S deg 3 min E. near which the Ruf- fians have Bxed the north -eallern mod point of the Afiatic continent, and which we have now proved to join the main continent of America, having traced that continent from Cape Blanco, the wefternmoft known Cape of Californio, to the prefcnt bay, without being able to find any communication with Hudfon's bay, or any o- ther fea whatever. But of this more hereafter. Here we cad anchor, and both Captains, at- tended by a proper guard of marines, went on fhore, and were met by an old Indian, at the head of a numerous body of his countrymen, all drefiTed in the (kins of beads. He had in his r'.ght hand a fpear 1 2 feet long, and over his left flioulder hung his bow and (haft of ar- rows. He addreffed the ftrangers in a fpeech of half an hour, at the conclufion of which he difplaycd a cloak of white feathers, as a fig- nal of peace, which Capt. Cook anfwered by waving his white handkerchief. Thefe preli- minaries over, the Indian made figns to his followers to ground their arms, and fet them the example by laying down his own, and makino- his fubmifiion. The parties then approached each other, and Cape. Cook prcfentcd the Indiaa with Ml. K >■««-' i , 274 Capt. G O O K's Voyace; with a few European triflrs, fuch as knives, fci0iirs, needles, pins, beads, and fmall look- ing'glaffcs, wliich were found more acceptable here than irpn, or more coftly merchandize, with which the Indian was h pleafed, that he ftripped himfelf of the garment which he wore, and prefented it with his weapons of war, to the Captain in return, making iigns at the fame time to the company to accompany him to the town, where we Ibould meet with things more wprthy our acceptance. This invitation both Captains, with iheir train, accepted, and, after wa)king little iiiore than two miles, we came to, the town, of which the old Indian appeared to be chief. Here we trafficked for furs of various fprts, fables, martins, foxes, beaver, and fome* deer (kins, dreffed in a particular manner, on both fides, two of which we purchafed for drum heads. They had dogs in abundance of a Jar^e breed, but we faw no other domefiic ani- mal. Their houfes, or rather holes, were built much like thofe we had fcen all along the coaft. After (laying about two hours, the company returned to the fliips, the Indians accompanying us to the (here, where they took their leave, kneeling when wc parted. We were no fooner embarked, than the fignal was macie to weigh, and get under way, fliaping our courfc N.N.E. On the nth we paffed feveral large iflanJs to the eaftward of us, and at the fame time left the extreme point of the northern cape of the Afiatic i:^ Capt. cook's Voyage. 275 Afiatic (hore to the eaftward of us very high and very barren. We then bore away to the north-eaft, founding from 5 to 6 fathom ; and ' about 3 P. M. finding the fea to change of a' milky colour, and at the fame time to (hallow . very faft, we came too in 7 fathom water, and fent the boats out to found, who foon returned finding the fca to deepen as they proceeded. On the 12th v/e altered our courfe, and flood to the N. W. till noon, when we again flood to the E. leaving feveral iflands on our ftarboard bow. In the evening we crofTed the arftic cir- cle, and ftood all night W. by S. as the land trended. But In the morning of the 13th we ftood once more to the eaftward. We were now in lat. 66 deg. 35 min. lon^. 189, the weather warm and fine. -^ On the 15th, finding ourfelves near land, on < a (hallow and rocky coaft, we ftood off W.S.W. when prefently we were attacked by a heavy ftorm of wind, attended wich rain, which lafted the whole day. At night we ftood again N.N.E and fo continued till morning. ^ »■ On the 1 6th at noon we found ourfelves in lat. 69 deg. 46 min. long. 192 E. We then ftood from N.N.E. to N'E. founding from 22 to 23 fathom water. , ....,, vujwm. Oil the 1 7th the weather began to grow piercj- ing cold- The froft fct in and froze fo hard, that the running rigging was foon loaded with ^.S ice, lilllf ■! / 276 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; ' ice, and readered jalmofi impoflible to make the iheafs or blocks traverfe without the aUKl- ance of Ax men to do the work of one. But what is mod remarkable, the fudden tranlition from heat to fuch fevere cold. The day before was warm and pleafant, but in the evening of this day the ice was feen hanging at our hair, our nofes, and even at the men's finger's ends, if they did but expofe them to the air for five or fix minutes : And ftill the farther they ran to the eadward, the colder it grew, and the ice the more connefted. On the 18th, hot viduals froze while we were at table 5 and this weather continued for fome days. "We were now advanced as far as ]at. 6g deg. 46 min. N. and in long. 192. £. and involved among iflands of ice, feme of which hung over our heads as we pafled theni, and excited very frightful apprehenfions. On fome of thefe iflands, many fea morfe, and other fea animals were feen. Being now well in with the ice, and having lofl fight of land, we ftood on to the northward till The 19th, when looking round in the morn- ing, as foon as the fog cleared away, we faw nothing but fields of ice covered over with whole herds of fea lions, fea horfes, and other amphibious animals, to the number, as it was thought, of fome thoufands. Thus furround- ed, a fignal was made from the Rcfolution to bring too, and to load the great guns, while the Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 277 the boats were getting ready to attack thefe hi- deous looking creatures with muikets. This by the Tailors from both (hips was accounted fport; and they went to the attack with as much alacrity as if to a match at foot-ball. Orders were given, as foon as the great guns were difcharged> to quicken the attack with the mufketry as fad as polTible. In a few mi* nutes not a creature was to be feen upon the ice, but fuch as were killed, or fo feverely wounded, as not to be able to crawl to the open fea. Some lay growling on the ice not quite dead, with two or three balls through their heads, aud others tumbling about with horri- ble vindidlive looks, threatening deftrudbion to whoever fhould approach them. All hands wene employed to colled the carcaiTes, and to carry them on board -, but what was thought an ill reward for their labour, orders were next day given by Capt. Cook to fubftitute the flefli of thefe fea-monfters in the room of all other pro- vifions, flower only excepted. This was ftrong- ly oppofed by the crew of the Refolucion, and Capt. Clarke remonftrated againft it, He was told by Capt. Cook, that he might do what he pleafed on board his own (hip ; but the ftate of the provifions on board the Kefolution made it nccelTary; and that he bimfclf (hould fet the example. Capt. Clarke endeavoured, but in vain, to enforce the order, and the matter paf- fcd on without any fcrious conlcquences. On 278 Capt. C O O K* s Voyage. On the 20ih we tacked (hip and flood to the vfcftward, the wind much agaihft us. Wc tacked every two hours, ftill working over to the Afiatic'fhorc, with a view to examine the coafts on both fides, before we returned to the fouthward. We were now in lat. 70 deg. 9 min. long. 194 deg. 55 min. ■,...^^ ,._ .., Wc continued labouring among the Ice till the 25th, when a dorm came on, which made it dangerous for us to proceed ; a confultation was therefore held on board the Refolution as foon as the violence of the gale abated, when it was unanimoufly refolved, that as this paffage was impracticable for any uieful purpofe of na- vigation, which was the great objed of the voyage, to purfue it no farther, efpecially in the condition the (hips were in, the winter ap- proaching, and the diftance from any known place of refrelhment great. On obfervation being had at noon, we found we were in lat. 71, and long. 197, when the (hips put about.^ ^ ''' About 2 in the morning of the 26th we ob- ferved a great body of ice ncaring us very fail, and in a few hours after, we faw the ice all clofed as far as the eye could carry, bearing from N.E. to S.W. we continued to fail W.S.W On the 28th feveral pieces of loofe ice paf- fed us, one of which came foul of the Dif- covery, and (hook her whole frame ; i: was feared fhe had received cunfiderable damage, but upon the carpenter's examining her fore and afr. if- if- as ;^ Capt. C O O K's VoyAOK. 279 afr, nothing was found amifs. We now took leave of the ice for this feafon, diredling our courfe S. S. W. , » .,, On the 29th we faw land ia the morning, which bore from N. N» W. to S. W. very high and covered with fnow. In the evening wc were in with the land i not a fhrub to be feen, but birds innumerable. On the 31ft we came in fight of the eaftern cape, bearing S. S. E. very high and covered with fnow ; at three in the afternoon we faw two fmall but very high iflands, bearing from N. N. E. to N. W. we were then in lat. 63 dcg. 10 min. and long. 182 deg. 2 min. . Sept. I, we continued coading to the fouth- ward. On the 3d we opened into the great bay, where we anchored the loth of laft month, lat. 66 deg. 31 min. long. 1S8 deg. 17 min. E. ;, On the 5th wc loft fight of the main con- tinent of Afia> which wc left the day before. f. Cn the 6th we faw land from W. N. W. to E, N. E. vtry woody, and covered with fnow ,in the valleys. Here we found the continent of America and the Afiatic fliore not above 6 leagues diftant, lat. 63 deg. 5S min. long, 192 deg. 10 min. On the 7th, there came two canoes from the fhore, with four Indians in them, thou'rh we were fuU four leagues diftanc. We hove too for their coming up ; but when along fide, they rO had 1 .; m '^. ' 1 . ' .I>1 280 CaPT. COOK'S VOYAOB. had little or nothing r. )urt with, except fomc dried fifh. They wefr jt^.ted on board, but could not be perfuaded to enten The Captain made them prcfcnts of fome trifles, with which they departed well plcafcd. They were doathed in fkins after the manner of all the inhabi- tants of the weftern coafts of America, among whom we found no remarkable diftindtion of drcfs or colour. On the 8th we fteered E. iN. palTing fevcral bays and Bne harbours all day, found the coun- try pleafant, and the coaft delightful. Here we found a (Irong current to fet to the S. £• at the rate of 5 knots an hour. '" On the 9th the land opened all round, from one (bore to the other, and we found ourfelves in the middle of a deep bay, but very fhallow, fometimes 3, tut never above 5 -|. fathom wa- ter. We faw the bay to run as far as the eye could carry, but impoffible to proceed, as in many places the water (hallowed under three fa- thom. We fent the boats out to found, at the fame time land appeared from S. E. to E. like two idands, which we afterwards found to join to the land. . On the 10th, having a ftiflF breeze, wc ran right acrofs the mouth of the bay, for the N. W. Ihorc, and juft before night the Refolution narrowly efcaped running upon a rock. We were now a^ain in Bhering*s Straits* "' On wc I, for It the )on a ftraits* On Capt. COOK'S VoyAGE. l8t -^ On the 1 1 th we came to an anchor in 6 fa* thorn water^ the eaftcrnmoft point of the bay bearing N^ E. by £• diftance 8 miles very high land. In the night we faw feveral fires, but no Indians came off to U8» On the I2ch) in the morning, the boats from both fhips were fent on fliore^ where they faw fome houfes of a wretched conllrudtion ) a fmall fledge^ and feveral other articles belong- ing to the Indians; but none of the natives* About ten they returned with a load of wood> which they found drifted on the beach, but no water ; the wood had drifted from the fouth- ward, for we faw no trees but black fpruce* We then ftretched over to the other Ihore, and the boats were again fent out, and about nine in the evening returned^ loaded with wood, which the men were obliged to carry through the water on their fhoulders, as the boats could not come within half a mile of land for break- ers* This was a grievous talk, as many of them had but juft recovered their late illnefs« This day feveral natives came from S. S. £* in large canoes, having great quantities of falmon dried and frefh, which they exchanged for blucE and red beads, needles, pins, knives or fciflbrsi or any European trinkets that were offered them } but what they valued moft was tobacco^ For this they would exchange their bows and arrows, their warlike inftruments, and whatever elfc they valued moft; but of this commodity, Y as m^^ t l-^ :j-: 282 CaPT. COOK'S VOYAGB. as has already been noticed, we had but little to fpare. We were again obliged to change our ftation, and ftretcli to the other (hore, where a fafc anchorage was difcovered, near which we could wood and water with the great-* eft eafe. Here our great cutter was font o«t, properly provided with a coxitpafs, and fix days provifion to furvey the bay, in order to deter- mine whether that land, which the Ruffians have laid down as Helenellii, joins to the Ame- rican continent, or whether there might not be a paflage to Tome other lea intervene^: -t ;i"J "" On the i^ih, while the cutters were on this fervice, the boats were bufy in wooding and watering, and before the return of the former, the latter had got more than 20 tons of water' on board the Difcovcry, and near double that quantity on board the Reiblution, with a pro- portionable quantity of wood. The men had then leave to go afliore, by turns, to gather berries, which they now found ripe, and in great abundance, fuch as rafberries, blu^r ber- ries, black and red currants, huckle berries, with various other forts, all in full pcrfcdion, A parry was likewile lent out to cut fpruce, to brew into beer for both fhips. Oi this liquor, however, the men were not very fond in this cold climcKe, efpecially when thty were given to underftand that tlieir grog was to be (topped, ai^d this beer fubllituted in the room of it, 1 hia occifioned great rrurniuring, and it was found rmer, water' e that pro- had' rather nd in ber- with A ce, to quor, n this ftn to ppcd, of it. t was found i Capt. COOK*s VoYAGfc. 183 found ncceflary to give it alternately, fprucc one day and grog another. On thefe excurfions, the parties were always well armed and had marines to attend them, and their orders were never to go out of hear- ing of the fhips guns, but to repair inftantly on board on the proper fignals. Thcfc precau- tions, however, fecmed unneceflary, as they never met with any ma'eftation from the na- tives, who were not numerous upon the coaft. On the 17th, the party that were fent out to furvcy the bay returned, after a diligent ex- amination of two days and two nights. Their report was, that it extended within land above 40 leagues, that they coafted it round, found- ing as they went, that they found the foundings regular from 5 to 3 |- fathom •, that it had no communication with any other fca, nor any current that indicated a pafTage to any other continent whatever. This report being con- • firmed by the officers who commanded the cut- ters from both (hips, the boats were all taken on board and ftcureJ, and ' ' ' On the 1 8th we weighed and failed, retracing the coafts we had before explored, without making any material difcovery. On the 25th we met with a dreadful temped of wind, rain and hail,or rather ice,between two and three inches fquare, by vvhich feveral of cur men, who were obliged to keep the deck, were fcverely wounded. In this long run, wc pafTcd fevcral re- Y 2 markablc .'i-t IT? I, > 284 Capt. cook's VoYAdtf. markable promontories and idands, particularly in lat. 6^ deg. 30 min. N. we palTed two head- lands, diftance from each other about half a mile* We hove-to, and our boats founded acrofs, in fome places not above i 4- fathom. In lat. 62 deg. 56 min. we came in fight of a cluder of iflands as we imagined, but on our nearer approach, found them all in one, bar- ren, and without a fhrub or tree. In lat. 60 deg. 22 min* we came up with a ftupendous rock or high idand, almoft covered with fnow, and without any other inhabitant, except birds and feals ; to this laft Capt* Cook gave the name of Winter Ifland, from its dreary ap- pearance. On the 26rh, the Refolution made the fignal of diftrefs. On haleing her, we were informed* that fhe had again fprung a leak, in the late violent gale^ and that ail hands were employed at the pumps and in baleing ; and that it was with difficuky they could keep her above water. Lat. 58 deg. 39 min. On the 29ih we were again vifited with a fe- vere dorm, and involved in heavy fcas, our hull being fometimcs entirely under water, and the waves rifmg to the yard-arms. A- bout midnight it came on to fnow, and the Refolution kept making fignals and hring guns all night. At day light we faw her dillant 5 or 6 miles. We fliortencd fail, and waited for her coming up. And, On Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 285 On the 30th,being both in conjpany,theftorm abated and the Tea quite calm, both (hips hove- to, and, while the carpenters were employed in (top- ping the leak in the Refolution, the people were bufied in filhing. Thofe on board the Difco- very caught 40 large cod, befides turbot, which were the more acceptable to officers and men, as our fait provifions were now very bad' Lat. 55 deg. 27 min' N. On Sept> 1* we continued our courfe to the fouthward* And On the ad, about 5 in the morning, we made land i and hauled our wind in fearch of Pre- vidence Harbour, of which wc had miftaken the entrance. About fix in the evening we came in fight of a large Indian town in a deep bay, where we found ourfclves furrounded with whales of a prodigious fize. We founded, and found no bottom at 100 fathom Here lome of our former friends came ofl^ to us, and being informed, that our defign was to anchor in our late harbour, they undertook to be our pilo:s, and one of them Qept all night on board the Difcovery. On the 3d, in the morning, we found our- fclves right a-breail the Race, and faw the Re- folution jufl within the entrance. About 2 in t|)e afternoon, the wind and tide both uniting in our favour, we fafely anchored in our late birth. I m m m Y3 Ail 286 Capt. C06k's VOYAGt: All hands were now fct to work, the carpen- ters in ftripping the Iheathing from the Rcfo- lution to examine her leaks, and the fail makers, caulkers and riggers in their refpedtive employ- ments, for which there was great need, both (hips having fuffcred much in their fails, feams, and rigging, in the late tempeftuous weather, and in the icey northern feas ; but what gave the greateft pleafore to the feamen, was the fuc- cefs they met with in fifhing, whenever the weather was fuch as to fuffer them to haul the feine. At the mouth of the harbour, they could at any time, in three or four hou-rs, fill their boats with holybut of an enormous fize ; one of them, fent on board the Refolution du- ring our ftay, weighed 220 Ife. Each mefs had now a fmall caik with a quantity ot fait given them, in order to make fome provifion to help out their Ihort allowance, which it was found neceflary to continue till their arrival in the tropical iflands, where the fhips might again be furniflied with a fre(h fupply. On the 4th our Capt. went on board the Com- modore, where he was acquainted by Capt. Cook with the diftrefs of the Kefolution, which ever fince the hard gale on the 26th had been ready to founder; on that day, on founding the pumps thre." feet water were found in the well ; and judging it to proceed from the fame place as before, the carpenters were employed in frarcu of it, when, to their great furprize, they found the Capf. cook's Voyage. 287 the full cafks afloat, and great qnanrities of provifions utterly fpoilt. Their firft care was to fkuttlc the balk heads, and to Icr the water down into the holdv and then the pumps were kept conftantly at work to pump it out ; but this was beyond their power', they could gain but little with inccffant labour, and when they came into harbour had 28 inches Hill in the hold. The carpenters had already ftript the fides of the Reiblution 16 feet from the counter forwards, where they found the infide rimhcrs fo much de- cayed, that their report was, that if their con- tinuance at fea had been neceflarily protradted but a fortnight longer, (he mufl; have gone :o the bottom. • We had ftill much to do, our articles for the tropical trade were nearly all exchanged, and we could expert no fupplies of provifions with- out an equivalent. We therefore lent a fmall fparebo- ver rnchoronflicre,anJ fetour armourers to break it up, and make it ino fpikes, axes, hatchets, luiiis, and other tropical m> rchandize. Whiic every thing was retfin;,^, ready, the offi- cers diverted themfcivcs as ufual with (hooting, and furveyiniz the country j and here they found amulVmcnt enough, havinjjj difcovered a Ruffian fettlemenc in an adjoining ifland, divided only by a neck oF land, abort 15 miles over, and a bay of about l^ mile?;, which they had to crofs. To chis fettlemcnt fevcral of our g'^ntlemen, led by curiofi y, repaired. They were concluded Y 4 by 288 Capt. COOK'S Voyage. ^.«®4 '■'^'^^^ --\^njHB| ^^^SHr ^\ .jM ' /.H » ,# ife ■■■^ it: II by twoKamfhacfkadale indians,who had been fent by the Ruffians to learn what they could con- cerning us, having before feen us pafs in our courfe to the northward. When they firft difco^ vered us at a diftance from the (hore, they were appreheoGve that we were Japonefe, with whom their nation was at war -, but on our nearer ap* proach, they were convinced from the trim of our (hips that we were ftrangers j they were therefore encouraged, by the report of the na* tives, to make themfelves known, and to offer their alTiftance as far as lay in their power. The road acrofs the ncck of land was rather rugged, but when that was furmounteo, our gentlemen were met by a Ruffian barge of 1 2 oars, commanded by an officer, who received them politely, and when they landed, di- rcded them to the fadtory, where, befides the fort, they found a Ruffian bark of about 50 or 60 tons, eight fmall fwivels and one 3 pounder hia Lp for the winter, and intended ior Kam- fchatlka the enfuing fummer. Our gentlemen were here (hewn the (lores belonging to the faC" tory, coniifting of (kins and oil ; their coppers for boiling the oil, with the fmall ware with which they trafficked with the natives by way of exchange. Iron inftruments of war are pro- hibited, nor do they fuffer any cfFenfivf, wea- pons of any kind to be introduced among them. It is probable therefore, that the long knives we faw in the po(reffion of the more foutherly In* dians^ ^i mi i Capt. cook's Voyage. iS^ dians, were fome that were taken from thole unfortunate Rufljans, who on the Brfl: difcovery of this continent, fell a facriBce to the favage barbarity of the natives. It was a little unfor* tun ate, that we had not one perfon on beard ci* ther fhip that had the mod diilant knowledge of the Rufs language ; every thing was to be ga» thcred by figns. Our officers could juft nnake out, that a Ruffian Captain had been murdered by the natives, and that the Rufllans had taken a fevere revenge, and had laid the country under contribution, and obliged the inhabitants to pay a certain annual tribute in (kins, but to what extent they had fubdued the country, or in what year, they could not at all underdand. They learnt, that the name of the ifland wa« Elalkah, that they had another fcttlement to the fouthward, and other veiTels that were con- ilantly employed in trading with the natives, and collecting their Ikins and oil -, that the fac- tory was fuppofed to clear about 100,000 ru- bles annually by this trade ; and that it was in- cieafing; that their only guard confifted of a- bout 40 Kamfhatflcadale Ruffians, and 300 na> lives, over whom they were obliged to keep a watchful eye. Our gcntkmens entertainment there was rather friendly than fumptuous \ they had dried venilon and great variety of filh, but drtifcd after the Ruffian manner -, their bifcuit was black, and their bread rye -, their butter not extraordinary *, their W'.nc and brandy the Indians who k':til ' m If 'a I § ) if «96 Capt. cook's Voyage, who conduced the .gentlemen carried from the ihips, with which the RufTian officers made very free. The evening being fpent in mutual en- quiries, by which neither fide could receive much fatisfadion, they were (hewn to the apartments prepared for them, where they flept undifturbcd. In the morning they renewed their enquiries, and the Ruffians, by exhibiting the chart of their difcoveries and conquefts, gave our gentlemen more fatisfadtory information than they could otherwife have obtained. They obferved a re- markable conformity between thofe charts exhi- ,bited by the Ruffians as far as they went, and of their own. The Ruffian, diftoveries extended from the 49th to the 68th degree of northern latitude, by which tlje impradlicability which we had difcovered of a north-weft paflage by any ftrait or found communicating with any other fea was fully confirmed. '(' • - • They were now equally communicative to each other, the Ruffian gentlemen were defirous of knowing the names of the navigators and fhips, with the expedition they were engaged in i and they were invited on board to receive further information. To this they readily a- greed ; and as foon as our gentlemen had fatis- fired their curiofity ; had vificed the Ruffian houfes, which were built with timber, and thofe of the natives built widi pol« and earth •, had remarked the fimplicity of the latter, which feemcd but one degree above the level of the beavers Capt. C06k*s Voyage. iqi beavers they hunted •, and of the former, that was little more than a degree above thofe of the natives ; they fet out upon their return to the Ihips, accompanied by the Ruffian gentlemen, by whom they had been entertained. > ' - About five in the evening, they all came on board the Refolution : the Ruffian gentlemen were received by Capt. Cook with that fami- liarity and politenefs that was natural to him } they were taken into the great cabin, where both Captains with their principal officers and gen- tlemen were aflembled to entertain them, and where the bottle was pretty brifkly pulh'd about,as that was the principal fubjedt in which the ftran- gers could bear a part. Here they were inter- rogated as to the time generally taken up in making the voyage to KamfhatfKa, which they anfwered by dividing the year into twelve parts, and pointing to the two middlcmoft. As the mafter of the vcfTel which lay at Elafkah waft of the company, he was afked at whit time he expeded to arrive at Kamfhatfka. He anfwered about the 9th month, meaning in July. He was then requelled to take letters with him to be forwarded to England through Ruffia, ffiould it fo happen, that he fhould arrive at that port before us. This charge he readily undertook ; and, being pretty well plied with liquor, they flcpt on board the Refolution, and next day came on board the Dilcovery, where they dined, • ■ ' and. 292 Capt. COOK'S VoYAce. ^ and, being amply fupplied with grog, went jovially away in the afternoon. Before our departure, we were vifited by the Principal of the Riifllan fadory, who came from the fouthward, accompanied by a number of Indian canoes, laden with fkins, who on coming afhore in the harbour, inftantly be- gan erefting a tent, which in half an hour they finished, covering it with fkins. He was re- ceived on board the Refolution with the refpeft due to his rank, and by his deportment it was eafy to perceive that he was of family. He was a young gentleman of a fair complexion, and graceful flature, and, though differing but little in point of drefs from thofe by whom we had been vifited before, he was, notwithfland- ing, very different in his manners and beha- viour. He had travelled much, but chiefly in thefe favage countries and in the northern parts of Afia, and underflood, and could talk the language of the natives, but could fpeak no European language, except his own. He was handfomely entertained on board both fhips, and had every attention paid him that, in our fituation, he had reafon to expedti nor was he infcnfible of our civilities. He wrote a letter, direded to the Governor of Kamfhatfka, which he requefled Capt. Cook to deliver. It contain'd, as we afterwards underftood, a detail of his own mercantile affairs, and a reprcfentation of us, as trading with the Indians. He told us, that his re- fidcnce Capt. cook's Voyage. 29^ Science was on the coail off which we had received a note in a little box, and that he was the perfon who wrote that note and fent it. Some prefents reciprocally paffed : thofe on his part were cloaks and fkins ; on ours, tobacco and fpirltuous H- qu9rs, of both which we obferved the RuIHans to be immoderately fond. After fleeping on board the fhips two n'gfits, and obferving, with an attentive eye, the diffe- rent employments of the artificers, and f's^a- mining the various conveniences and accom- modations ch we had on board, he took his leave on the 26th, intending to make fome flay at the fettlement of Elafkah, which the gentle- men of the Refolution had juft vifited. The repairs of both fhips being nearly finifhed, we were preparing to fail with the firfl fair wind, when a florm arofe, which retarded our departure till it abated. Happy that we were got in a fafe harbour, unaffeded by its violence, though the waters of the race came tumbling in with unexampled fury. On the 29th, the wind fair to carry us to fea, we weighed, and, having cleared the harbour^ made fail, direfting our courfe for Sandwich's Ifles, near the northern tropic, where we inten- ded to winter, and to fupply the fhips with provifions to enable us to purfue the remaining part of our voyage. On the ;.oth we were overtaken by a violent gale, which carried away our fore and main- tacks, <^, <<>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) H '/A 7 7 /^. 1.0 S!^ "^ itti :^ lift 1.25 III ,.4 21 12.5 m m 2.2 2.0 Sciences Corporation 33 WST MAIN STMIT WIISTM.N.Y. 14SM (7U)I73-4S03 ? <° \ iV $^ 294- Capt. cook's Voyage. tackr, aad, endeavouring to fave them, Jolm M^ckintofh. feaman, was (Iruck dead, and tha boatfwain and four men much wounded. We. at the fame time fprung a leak. . i.-,v-,. .. On the I ft of November we were again with- in the race, but the wind offering fair, and our, leak not being dangerous, we once more ftood to fea^ After which no other accidence, pr any thing worth relating happened, from the timo of clearing the harbour of Samganuida, fo cal- led by the Ruffians, and by Capt- Cook Pro- vidence Harbour, till our arrival en the coaft of Owhy-e on the 26th of the fame month. We were then fo much in want of provifions, that Capt. Clarke, much againft his inciinatu)n» was under the neceffity of fubftituting ftock-firti in the room of beef, but we were no fooner well in wich the land, than we were vifit:d by many of the inhabitants, who came off in their ca- noes with all forts of provifions which their iQind affjrded, and every man on board had leave to purchafe what he could for his own in- dulgence. This diffufed a joy among the ma- riners that is not eafy to be expreffed. From a fullenefs and difcontent vifible in every counte- nance the day before, all was chearfulnefs, mirth- and jollify. Frc(h provifions and kind females are the failors fole delight j and when in poffcf- fion of thefe, part hardlhips are inftantly for- gotten i even thole whom the fcurvy had at- tacked, and hud rendered pale and lifelefs as glioils, Capt. cook's VoyAOBi 295 ghofts, brightened upon this occafion, and for the moment appeared alert. This flattering beginning, however, yielded no fubftantial re- lief. The boats that were fent to found the fhore and to look for a harbour, went out day after day, without being able jo difcover fo much as a fafe anchorage, and we were longer in finding -a harbour than in making the coaft-. Nothing couM be more toilfome or diftrefling than our prefent fituation ; within fight of land, yet unable to reach it •, driven out to fca, by one ftorm, and in danger of being wrecked on the breakers by another. At length, after having examined the leeward fide of the ifland, Capt. Cook made the fignal to (land out to fea- This was on the 7th of December, when it was de- termined to take a long (Irctch, in order, if pof- fible, to get round the S E. extremity and to ex- amine the weathermoft fide where we were told there was a fafe harbour. In this attempt we fplit our main-top-maft itay-fail, and loft fight of the Refolution. The weather con- tinuing tempcftuous for many days, heavy com- plaints again prevailed among the fhip*s com- pany. Their fuffL-rings, from incelTant labour and fcanty provifions, were gro-vn confeflfedly grievous. Their [i,rog, that had been (lopped as foon i.s we arrived upon the coall, was again dealt out to them as ufual, and it was with the kindcft treatment from their officers that the men could be kcp; to their Jury •, yet on Chrill- mas ) 1 t . 2g6 Capt. C O O K's VovAOtf. mas day, when each man was allowed a pint oi brandy, and free leave to enjoy himfelf as he liked, not a murmur was heard ; they the very next day returned to bufinefs, and continued it without repining, till The i6th of January, when, afcer a feries of the mod tempeftuous weather that ever hap* pened in that climate, the boats from both (hips were fent out to examine a fine bay, where we were informed there was a harbour, in which we might fafely moor, and where we Piould bs fupplied with materials to refit the (hips, and provifions to vidual them. In the evening the boats returned with the joyful news, that they had fucceeded in their fearch, and that the har- bour promifed fair to anfwer all that had been faid of it. . ' On the 17th our boats were employed in cowing the (hips into harbour in fight of the greated multitude of Indian fpedtatofs in ca- noes and on (hore, that we had ever feen afiem- bled together in any part of our voyage. It was concluded, that their number could not be lefs than 2 or 3000. While we were hovering upon the coad, we had often been vificed by 200 ca- noes at a time, who came to trade, and wha brought us provifions when the weather would permit } and b^fides provifions they brought us great quantities of cordage, fait and other manufactures of the ifland, which the Captains purchafed for the ufc of the (hips, and with- out Capt. COOK'i Vovacb. 197 but which we could not have proceeded $ for during the tempeftuous weather our cordage fnapped rope after rope, fo that our fpare hands were inceflantly employed, night and day, in knotting and fplicing, of which there was no end. This day, before two o'clock, P. M. we were fafely moored in 17 fathom water, in company with the Refolution, which a few days before we had given over for loft. From the time of attempting to get round the IQand, till the 8th of January, we had never been able to get fight of her, though both (hips were conftantly looking out to Bnd each other. They had fuSered much in their mads and rig- ging, and were happy at laft, as well as our* felves, to find a convenient harbour to refit. We were fcarce moored, when the prince, fon to the O-ro-no, the great king of the idand, came along- fide, and after an oration, and the ufual ceremonies of peace had pafifed on both fides, he came on board, bringing with him a fmall barbicued hog, fome ready -drcfied bread-fruit, and a curious mantle of red fea- thers as prefents to the Captain ; and in return was complimented with fcveral axes, looking glafles, bracelets and other fiiewy articles which took his fancy. While he was bufy in admir- ing every thing he faw on board the Difcovery, the pinnace was ordered out, and he with his attendants were taken to Capt, Cook, who re« jf^ ccivcd 2g8 Capt. cook's VoVaoe, ceiVed them with all poflible refpeft. And af- ter entertaining them with mufic, and inviting them to partake of fuch refrefhments as the fhip affbfd^d, and making them fome hand*^ fefne prefetits he acquainted them with his wants, by (hewing them the condition of his fhip, and requeuing a fmall portion of groUnd to land his material, ahd to eftf^ hh tcnts^ l"his rcqueft the young prince rfcad'dy gf anted* ^t the fame time giving the Captain to under** iland that his father was abfent, that he had htely been at war with the king of the neigh- bouring ifland of Maw^whee, that he was erti*. ployed in fettling the terms of peace, and that in lefs than ten days, he was eitpedted home* That the ftrangers might, notwithltanding, land what- ever they thought Br, and that the ground they had occafion for (hould be marked out and taboo'd, th^t is appropriate to thetr ufe with-^ out any of the natives to encroach upon it. Both Captains very rcfadily embraced the offer, and prepared to accompany the young pHnce to the town near which they wifhed to pitch their tents. Upon their landing, feveral vacant plats of ground were (hewh tt^m, and, when they had made their choice, (lakes were ordered to be driven at certain dift^nces, and a line to be carried round, within which the cohimon peo- ple were forbidden to enter, under the fevered penalties. Matters being thus amicably fet- tled, no time was lo(t on our part to get every ■^ thing Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 299 thing on Ihore. The tents, the armourer's forge, the mafts, the fails, the rigging, the water cafks, the bread, the flour, the powder* in (hort every article that wanted either to be reviewed or repaired were all fcnt on (hore 1 and not the lead interruption vyas given to the boat9 employed io the carriage, or infult offered to the perfons who conduded them. On the contrary, the chiefs oflfered fome empty houfes, that were conveniently Tituated near the new dock (if that may be fo termed where our arti^cers were fet to work) for the fick to lodge till their reco^ very. Np ftrangcrs were ever more hofpita- bly received. On the morning after our peo- ple landedi 0dt large double canoes \yere feen entering the harbour at a great rate, having not lefs than 30 paddles to each canoe, w|th up- wards of 6q Indians, me(l of them, liiaked* Seeing them on their ntarer approach making towards the (hips, the Captains ordered the guns to be (hotted, the marines to be drawn up, and every man to be ready at his poll; the Indians ai&mbled fo fail:, that before noon» the (hips were iurrounded with more than 100 canoes, in which there were not lefs than lOQO Indians. They at Brfl: traded friendly, hav- ing hogs in abundance, and plenty of bread- fruit, plantains, bananoes, and whatever elfe the ifland produced, but they had not been there long, before a large (loae was thrown at the cabin-window, by an inviQble hand. A Z 2 watch > I ; 300 Capt; COOK'S Voyaob; watch was inftantly fet, and in lefsthan half aii hour another (tone was thrown at the caulkers, as they were at work on a ftage on the (liip*s (ide. The offender was feen, and in fight of the prince, the chiefs, and the whole multi- tude, he was feized, brought on board, tied to the fhrouds, and puniflied with 50 laflies* In a few minutes, fuch was their fright, there was not an Indian to be feen near the (hips :•— Like unlucky boys, when one is apprehended for fome naughty trick, the reft commonly fly the place. -—And in fadb, thofe people are in many things like children, and in none more than in this inftance. Before the day clofed, they all again returned to trade, and, when night approached* not a male was to be feen ; but fwarms of fe- males, who came to fleep on board, though much againft the will of Capt. Cook, who, upon the firft arrival of the (hips upon the coaft, wi(hed to have prohibited all commerce with the women of the iQand, but he foon found that, if that commerce was forbidden all other trade muft ceafe of courfe, and not a pig could be purchafed, without a girl was permitted to bring it to market. . ... ^ . There are, who have blamed Capt. Cook for his fe verity to the Indians ; but it was not to the Indians alone that he was fevere in his difcipline. He never fufFered any fault in his own people, tho' ever fo trivial, to efcape un- punilhed : If they were charged with infulting Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 301 tn Indian, or injuring him in his property, if the fa£b was proved, the o^ender was fureljr punifhed in fight of the Indians. By this im- partial diftribution of equal juftice, the Indians themfelves conceived fo high an idea of his wifdom, and his power too, that they paid him the honours as the/ did theirEt-hua, or good fpirit* The caulkers, who have already been men- tioned, when they came round in courfe to the after-part of the Refolution, they found that, belides the Teams that wanted dofing, there were other more material defedts. The rud- der eyes were almoft eaten through with ru(l» and the bolts ready to tumble out. This was an alarming defe£t, and all other bufinels was fufpended till that was repaired. Every thing went on now as fmoothly as could be wilhed. The chiefs, if they faw any of their own people mtfbehave, would them- felves give information, and bring them .c pu- niflimenti they were fo very obliging, ijat, feeing us in want of wood to burn, they made an offer of a high fence, that furrounded the Morai, adjoining to the town, for a prefent fupply. On the 19th, being the fourth day after our arrival, feveral very large canoes were feen to come from the S. £. We at firfl thought they were the friends, with whom we had traded on the other fide of the iftand, but on their Z 3 nearer il: 502 Capt. cook's Voyaob; nearer approach, we found they were all armed and cloathed in the military ftylc, after their country manner. This gave us caufe to fuf- ped fome traiterous defign, but our fears were in fome meafure difllpated by the alTurances wr received from the young prince, that they were fome of the warriors that had accompanied his father in his expedition againil: the king of Maw-wee, and that they were now returning home in triumph ; but, noth withftanding this fllTurance, it was thought prudent to be upon our guard, and the rather as the women who were on board, told us, that their people de- figned to attack us, and to mattee, that is, to kill us every one. Next day, before nine o'clock, more thaii four thoufand Indians furrounded the (hipsc The Captain ordered two great guns to be Bred over their heads, in order to try what effed that would have in difperfrng them. In lefs than three minutes, there were a thoufand heads to be feen above water, fo many having jumped from their canoes into the fea, frighted on the fudden report of the guns ; neither did a fingle canoe remain about the (hips, nor came near \is for fome days after. Several of the women however remained on board, who never could be prevailed on to fhew themfelves upon deck in the day-time, but whether from fear of their countrymen or of the guns is uncertain, as all trude was now (lopt, and nothing brought on board ■ ? Capt. cook's Voyage. 303 board for our fubfiilence. Cape Cook went on (hore to expollulace wjth the chiefs, and by fome trifling prefents to engage them to trade as before ( threatening at the fame time to lay their country wafte, if they refufed to fqpply the (hips with the provifions they ftopd in need of. His remonftrances had the defired effe£t« and n^xt day we purcbafed not lefs than 60 iarge hogs with great quantities pf fruity and vegetables for the (hip*s ufe. . **,,'. • j I In a few days after this, the old king was feen to enter the harbour, on his return from Maw- wee. He was attended with more thai> 150 large war-canoes, himfelf at the head of them in a moft fupcrb vcflel, in which wjere four idols, two a; each €i^ representing men of a monftrous fize, covered with manUes of fea- thersy interwoven with various colours, red^ black, green, and yellow. Thefc tjiey call E-ah^-tu-a, fignifying their warrior gods, with- out which they ncycr engage in battle. They pafled the (hips, and Teemed to take very little notice of them *, when they landed, they hauled up ali their canoes on tl?e beach, drew up in martial order, and led by the king, marched In ranks to their place of worihip, diftant from our tents about fifty yards j but, feeing the ground iaboo*d by fmall green boughs, that marked the boundaries, they all made a circle round with their images in procelTion, till they • . .,. .^,,„ . Z 4 arrived 304 Capt. COOK'S Voyage: arrived at their Morai, where they placed their deities, and depofitcd their arms. ^' ' i*^' This ceremony over, the king, attended Yfith ten of his chiefs, came on board the Re- folution. When he entered the (hip, he fell on his face, as a mark of fubmiflion to Capt. Cook, as did all his attendants, and after hav- ing made an oration, which none of us under- ftood, he prefented the Captain with three bar- bicued hogs, who, in return, put a necklace, compofed of feveral firings of various*coloured beads, round his neck, and gave him two looking glades, a large glafs bowl, with fome nails, and other trifles, which he received with much feeming fatisfaffcion, and immediately difpatched a meflenger on (hore, who foon re* turned with feveral large hogs, and cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains and fugar-cancs, as much as our fmall cutter could carry. Having re- mained upon deck the fpace of an hour, ad- miring the conftru6tion of the (hip, he was condu6i:ed into the great cabin, where wine was offered him, which he refufed : neither was there any thing he would tafle, except a head of bread-fruit *, but he appeared delighted with every thing he faw, and did not return on (hore till the evening. He was of a graceful Mature, about fix feet high, rather corpulent, and tattowed in feveral parts of his body, in manner like that of other warriors. His (kin was remarkably fcaley ; his hair grey, and cut quite Capt. COOK*s Voyage. 305 quite Ihorc, He had very little cloathing, ex- cept a thick mat thrown over his flioulders, and on his head he wore a cap of feathers. Before he departed he gave us to underfland, that he had 6000 fighting men, always in rea- dinefs to war againit his enemies. Next day both Captains, accompanied with feveral of their officers, went to pay the king a vifit on (bore. They were very refpedlfully re- ceived, and having dined after the Indian man- ner, the king rofe, and clothing CapL Cook with a mantle, fuch as is worn by the great £-a-thuah*nu-eh, condufted him to the place of worlhip, where a garland of green plantain leaves was put upon his head, and he was feat- ed on a kind of throne, and addrefied in a long oration by a prieit cloathed in a veftment of party-coloured cloth, who concluded the cere^ mony with a folemn fong, in which he wasjoin- ed by all the nauves prefent ; this part of the ceremony over, they fell at his feet, the king acquainting him, that this was now his build- ing, and that he was from henceforth their E- a-thu ah-nu*eh. From this time an Indian Chief was by the king's order placed at the headof his pinnace, at whofe command the Indians in their canoes as he pafied them were all filence, and would prodrate themfelves till he was out of fight ; and this they would do when the Cap- tain was alone, but the Indian had orders from the king whenever the Captain came afhore in his pinnace, ff. ... if ■ .4* 3o6 Capt. COOK'S Voyaci: pinnace, to attend him, and condu6): him to his houfe, which the failors now called Cook's Altar. "^ '^ ■'• '• -^'-'r -^ i-r ^i ,..: «r, v-.^ When we firft approached the coaft of this ifland we were aftonilhed at the fight of a moun* tain of a flupendous height, whofe head was covered with fnow. This was fo rare a fight in an idand between the tropics, that feveral of the officers and gentlemen from both (hips were defirous of taking a nearer view of it, and for that purpofe they requef^ed the king's permif- fion, and a guide to attend them, which was readily granted, and no lefs than twenty Indian chiefs contended which (houki accompany them* On the 26th Mr, Nelibn and four other gen- tlemen fet out in the morning on this expedi- tion, which they afterwards found attended with no fmall fatigue, and not a little danger •, for after travelling two days and two nights thro* a favage country, they were obliged at laCfc to return, without being able to f^tisfy their cu- riofity. On the way they were infuUed by the rabble, who without offering any violence to their perfons, would make faces, twift their mouths, and ufe the fame contemptuous gef- tures, with which it is their cuftom in war to provoke their enemies* :, .^./i ,, ><;♦ ^r On the 29th they returned to the (hips, and the only advantage that accrued from their jour- ney, was, a curious afTortment of indigenous plants and fomc natural curiofities, c'^H-ftr'i by i(,.' Capt. cook's Voyage. 307 by Mr. Nelfon. During their abfcnce every thing remained quiet at the tents, and the In- dians fupplicd the (hips with fuch quantities of provifions of all . kinds, that orders were giveit to purchafe no more hogs in one day than could be killed, faked, and ftowed away the next day. This order was in confequence of a former or- der, to purchafe all that could be procured for fea ftoqk, by which fo many were brought on board that fevcral of them died before they could be properly difpofcd of. , On the ill of Feb. 1779, William Watman, gunner's mate, died. His body in the after- noon was carried on Ihorc in the pinnace, and buried according to his own dcfire in the Morai belonging to the king. The Indians who dug his grave about four feet deep, covered the bottom of it with green leaves, and when the corpfe was depofitcd in the earth, the chiefs who attended the funeral, put a barbicued hog at the head, and another at the feet, with a quantity of bread fruir, plantains and bananas. MdVewas going to be added, when Capt. Cook ordered the grave to be covered up, and a poft creded to the memory of the deceafcd, infcrib- cd with his name, the date of the year, day of his death, and the nation to which he belonged* From this circumllance, Capt. Cook gave this port the name of Watman's harbour. The next day the Indians rolled large (tones over his grave, and brought two barbicued hogs, plan- tains 3o8 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; tains and bananas, cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit; which they placed over his grave, upon a (lage erected for chat purpofe. We were now preparing to depart, when our Captain was,- prefented by the king, with I2 large hogs, three boats-load of bread-fruit, po- tatoes, fugar cane, and cocoa This gave caufe to fupedl that fome villainy was hatching, and, in order to prevent the ill- confequences that might follow, both Captains met on board the Refolution, to confult what was bed to be done on this critical occafion. The officers from both Aiips were prefent at this council, wbere it was reiblved to feize the king and to confine him on board till the boa^ ihould be returned. ^ . . ^ L "With this view, early on the morning of the 1 4th, Capt. Cook, with 20 marines went on ihore under cover of the guns of both (hips. The Indians obferving our motions, and feeing the (hips warping towards the towps, of which there were two, one on each fide the harbour's mouth, they concluded that our defigu was to feize their canoes. In confcquence of which moft of their large war canoes took the alarm, and were making off, when our guns, loaded with grape and canifter (hoc, drove them back •, and the Captain and his guard landed without oppofition. We obfcrved, however, that their M .^ . warriors Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 317 Warriors were cloathed in their military drefs, the* without arms, and that they were gathering together in a body from every diredion, their chiefs alTuming a very different countenance to what they ufually wore upon all former occa* fion^. However, Capt. Cook, attended by Mr. Philips, Lieut, of Marines, aferjeant, and ten privates, regardlcfs of appearances, pro- ceeded di redly to the king's refidence, where they found him feated on the ground,with about twelve of his chiefs round him, who all rofe in the utmoft confternacion on feeing the Captain and his guard enter. The Captain addrelTed the king in the mildeft terms, affuring him that no violence was intended againft his perfon or any of his people, except againd thofe who had been guilty of a moft unprecedented acl of robbery, by cutting from her moorings one of the fhip*s boats, without which they could neither con- veniently water the (hips, nor carry on the nc- cefT^ry communication with the (bore ; calling upon the king, at the fame time, to give orders for the boat to be immediately refiored ; and infilling upon his accompanying him to the Ihips, ■ till his orders fhould be carried into execution. •The king protefted his total ignorance of the theft } faid he was very ready to aifift in difco- vering the thief, and fhould be glad to fee him punifhed j but (hewed great unwiUingnefs to trull his perfon with ilrangers, whp had lately ' exercifed very unufual feverities againft his peo* A a 3 pie '^ l-W • Iki u gift Capt. cook's Voyagb; pie.' He was told that the tumultuous appear^ ance of the people and their repeated robberies hiade fomc uncommon fe verities neceflary j but that not the leall hurt (hould be done to the ineaneft inhabitant of his ifland by any perfon belonging to the fhips, without exemplary pu- iiifliment} and all that was neceflary for the continuance of peace was, to pledge himfcif for the honefty of his people. With that view< arid that view only he came to requeft the king to place confidence in him, and to make his ihip his home, as the mod efFedual means of iiutting a flop to the robberies that were now daily and hourly committed by his people, both at the tents and on board the (hips, and Were now fo daring as to become infufFerable. The kingi upon this remonftrancej was prc- parihg to comply \ but the chiefs^ taking the alarm, began to Ileal away one after anothei*, till they were (lopped by the guard. In about half an- hour the king was ready to accompany Capt. Cook on board *, but by that time fo great a body of Indians were got together and lined the fhorci that it was with difficulty they could break through the multitude, who now began to behave outrageoufly, and to infulc the guard. Capt. Cook, obferving their behaviour, gave orders to the officer of marines to make way, and if any one oppofed, to fire upon and in- ftantly difpatch him. This order Lieut. Phi- lips endeavoured to carry into execution^ and (k /i a lani CAPt. COOK*s Voyage, gig a Une was made for the king and his chiefs to get to the boats, but they had fcarcc reached the water-fide, when the word was given) that Tu-tce was about to carry off their king to kill him. In an inftaut a number of their fighting men broke from the crowd, and ^vith ilubs rulhed in upon the guard, four of whom wer< prefently difpatched A ruffian makinga ftroke at Capt. CookjWas (hot dead by the Captain himfelfi who,having a double barrelled gun,was aiming at another,when a favagecame behind him and strik- ing him on the head with his club telled him to the ground -, and then thruft his Pa-ha*he (a kind of poignard made by our armourers at the re* queft of the king, the day before) through his body with fuch force thatj entering between his fhoulders, the point of it came out at his breads The quarrel now became general. The guns from the (hips began to pour in their fire upon the crowd, as did likewife the marine guards and the marine from the boats ; and tho* the (laughter among the favages was dreadful, yet) enraged as they Were, they ftood our incefTanc fire with aftonidiing intrepidity, infomuch that| in fpite of all our elForts, they carried off the bodies of the dead, as a mark of triumph. '- Befides Gapt. Cook^ whofe death was uni* Verfally deploredj corporal Thomas, and tht-ed privates, Hinkes^ Allen, and Fadget fell vic« tims to their fury. But it feemed as if it waS againft our Commodore that their vengeance rj ; r A a 4 wal ti gao Capt. cook's Voyagb. was chiefly dircded, by whofe order they fup- pofed their king was to be dragged on board, and puniihed at his difcretion For, having once fecurcd his body, they fled \7ith0ut much regard- ingthe othcrs,cxie of which they threw into the Tea. Thus ended the life of the greateft navigator that this or any other nation ever could boaft,after ha- ving fuccefsfully led his crews of gallant Britifh feamen thrice round the World j had reduced to •11 certainty the nonexiftence of a Southern Continent, about which the learned of all na- tions were in doubt : had fettled the boundaries t)f the earth and fca \ and (hewn the impradli- tability of a N. W. paflage from the Atlantic to thfc Great Southern Ccean, for which our ableft navigators had contended, and in purftiit of which vaft fums had been fpent in vain, und many valuable mariners had miferably pe- tifhed.— Reader, if thou haft any feeling for thy country in the lofs of fo great, fo illuftrioui tl navigator, or any tendernefs for thofe whom he has left to lament his fate, thou wilt drop with me a tear at this melancholy relation j «rpccially when thou rtflfdclf, that he, who had bravcJ dangers, and had looked death in the face in a thoufand forms, fhould at laft be -cut off by the hands of a cowardly favage, who, dreading the impctuofity of his rage, came behind him, and, ruffian-like, ftabbcd him in the back.— But of this enough.— ^^^ .» > > > ^ * »IJ^ •-»' k^f - Our bufinefs now was to decamp } all hands ■were therefore employed in that fervice, and happy we thought ourfelvcs when we had got every thing fafc on board. Our next care was to recover our dead. A ftrong party were ffcnt out in the pinnaces and boats, with a white Bag in token of peace, to endeavour to procure their bodies. They were met by Ow-a te, a man of chief note among the favages, at the head of a vaft multitude without anfwering our fignal, who informed US, that the warriors were then on the back of the hill, cutting up and dividing the bodies^ but that if Ta-tee, the name they gave Capt* Clarke, would land^ what remained of Tu-tee fhould be delivered to him ; but our party be- ing inconfiderable in proportion to the numbers of the enemy that were then aflembled, we were apprehcnfive of fome treacherous defign^ and therefore our Commander very wifely de^ dined the invitation. While we remained ii our boats, feveral other chiefs came to the wa- ter-fide i and one in particular, with Captr'n Cook's hanger, which he drew in a vaunting manner, and brandilhed it over his head ; others fliewed thcmfclves with the fpoils taken from the dcadj one having a jacket, another a (hirrj * , a third ' Capt. GOOK's Vovace. 32^ a third a pair of trowfers, and fo on j infulting us, as it were, with the trophies of their vic- At this time it was thought prudent tb ftifle our refentmenta and to referve our vengeance till a more favourable opportunity. We werd 1I0W in want of water, our fails and rigging in a (hattered condition, our cordage bad, and our repairs not near Hnidied ; all therefore we had to do, was to remain upon the defenliv^ till we were better provided. Towards the clofe of the evening, we faw^ from the fhips, at a confiderable diftance, a canoe with eight or nine Indians making to- wards us from the N. W, and, on their nearet approach, obferved one of them (landing up with our late Commanders hat on, dnd appa- rently daring us, by firft clapping his hands* And then applying them, with a quick motion* to different parts of his body ; by which we af- terwards difcovered, that tiothing more wa^ hieant than a kind of joy that he had foiiiethlng to give, which he thought we would be glad to receive. Under the firft mifapprehenfion of his meaning, a gun was tired at him from the Refolution, which wounded him in the leg ; but, notwithftanding this, the canoe came clofe tinder the fliip*s ftern, haling us, and at the fame time the whole crew calling out Tu-tce^ Tu-tee, as loud as they could bawl. This ex* tiled every one's curiofity, and orders were gi-^ vcn ti' t !'■ 324 Capt. cook's Voyage,' vcn to admit them on board. When the wounded man produced a piece of flefh, carefully wrap- ped up in a xloth, which he folemnly aljured us was part of the thigh of our Jate Commander; that he faw if cut from the bone, but believed that all the reft was eaten. He was inftantly carried into the furgery, had his wound drefled» and during the operation was queftioned clofely concerning any other pare of the Captain's re- mains, all which he declared had been divided among fo many of the warriors, as he called them, that he fuppofed by that time every other part muft be devoured. He was then afked if he knew what became of the other dead bodies ; which he anfwered in the negative. As foon as his wound was dreffcd, he defired to be fet at liberty, which was granted ; and when the cailoe departed, the Indians were deHred to bring us hogs and provifions, and to trade as before* Their anfwer was, they were taboo'd. . On the 15th, the different promotions took place, and according to thqir fucceflion, the of- ficers changed (hips, Capt Clarke went on board the RefoUition ; and Mr. Gore, ift Lieut, of the Kefolution, took the command of the Difcovery. „ 1 r- , ,. , ..^» , ,, 1, ; In the-evening of the i6th, the flefli belong- ing to the dcceafcd commander was depofited in a box, and with much fokinnity committed to the deep. On On Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 325 On the 13th both Ihips were again warped near the fliore, and a Ipring put upon their ca- bles, in order to cover the boats, who were fent to compleat our (lock of water, left the people of the neighbouring ides, hearing what had hap- pened to us here, (hould rcfufe to fupply our nece(fities. On this movement crowds of inha- bitants were feen to flock together with a large black flag difplayed, which we interpreted as a fignal for war •, but we afterwards found, that it was part of their ceremony in burying their . dead. Under this miftake a few guns were fired from the fhips to difperfe them, by which the king's fecond fon, Mea-Mea was killed, and a poor woman loft her arm. This made a ftrong impreffion on the whole body of Indians, and wc were left in quiet both this and the next day, to purfue our repairs and compleat our hold. On the 19th they began again to be trouble- fome. In the morning while the boats were loading at the well, the ftones came about the crews like hail, fome of theui of more than a pound weight ; one in particular was feen to come from an invifible hand, which being attended to, an Indian was obferved to creep out of a hole, who as foon as he had difcharged his ftone, retired back to his place of flielter. Him we marked, and returned lo our ftiips ; and it being now apparent, that nothing wjs to be gained by fair means, orders were given to ftrlke terror among them, by purluing them with fire and > *. fword. * ■t i ^i6 Capt. C O O K' s Voyaoe; fword. About two in the afternoon all who were able to bear arms, as well failors and arti- ficers as marines, were muftered, and prepara- tions made to fuftain them, while with lighted matches they rowed on (hore, and fet fire to the S.£. townjpurfuing the frighted inhabitants while their houfes were in flames, with unrelenting fu. ry. Many were put to death without mercy, and all driven to feek fhelter in the other town ; fcarce a houfe in this having efcaped the fury of the flames. In this general defolation, the hut or hole of the crafty Indian whofe cowardice had been one principal caufc of the deftruftion that followed, was not forgotten. His hole had been marked, as has already been obferved, and on feeing our failors approach it, fueh was his ma- lice, that he heaved a huge done at the aflail- ants, one of whom he dangeroufly wounded, but was inflantly difpatched by the difcharge of three mufl^ets, and a bayonet ri^n through his body. Our orders being fully exe- cuted, we returned to the fhips before night, loaded with Indian fpoils, confiding of bows and arrows, clubs and arms of all kinds which they ufe in battle, and having the heads of two of their fighting men, of which the obnoxious In- dian was one, duck at the bows of the pinnaces, as a terror to the enemy from ever daring again to moled us. It is however not a little remarkable, that tha father and mother of two girls who were on board our fliip, came in the dead of night, in their igam Capt. cook's Voyage. 327 (heir canoe, loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread- fruit, which they had been gathering in the day for their own fubfiftence, and acquainting us with a treacherous defign of their countrymen, to cut our cables and drift the (hips afhore, ae the fanie time iqiploring our protedtion, as not knowing where to (helter themfelves with fafety. They were taken on board, and remained prifon- lers till morning, when not an Indian was to bp feen near the harbour,but fuch as were old and fee- ble, and knew not how to make the'r efcape. The informers wej-e tenderly treated, had prefcnts made them, and afterwards difmifled at their own defire, upon a neighbouring ifland, with every poken of kindnefs. The waterers now filled their cafks in quiet j and it was not long before the phiefs of the ifland came to fue for peace. ' About four in the afternoon of the 20th, ten girls came down to the well, where the waterers were bufy, with quantities of fruit, as much as they could carry, for which they would take nothing in return, only praying to be taken on board. This was denied them, as peremptory orders had been given by Captain Clarke, forbidding their admilTion. On the 2ifl, a chief, never before feen on board either (hip, attended by about 300 of his people, with a white flag difplayed, and carry- ing boughs and green branches in their hands, came finging and dancing to the ^arer fide. On feeing his enfign anfwered by a whice fl.ig aC f^ch mizzen-top-mdft-head, he, accompanied with i^ ■'■■ \' ■t}f 328 CaPT. COOK'S VOYAOB. with three other chiefs, came on board, having fome cocoa-nuts, plaintains, and bread-fruit, as prefents to the commander, for which they would accept of nothing in return. This chief, whofe name was A-nu-a, came to make fub- miflion, and, as a token of his fincerity, pro- mifed to colleft the bones of our dcceafed war- rior, as he called him, and to bring them, and lay them at his feet. This was the token of the mod perted fubmidlon that an Indian war- rior could make to his conqueror; and this was accepted on the part of our commander. In this manner, and on thefe conditions, peace was to be reftored. , .^ At nine in the morning of the next day, the fame old chief returned, attended by a more numeious fuite than before, having feveral large hogs added to his peace-offerings, and with him, likewife, he brought the bones of Cap t. Cook, thofe of his back bone and feet only excepted, which he promifcd to produce the next vifit he made. On examination, the head appeared to have been fcaiped i the face was eniircly gone •, the hands had the Be(h on, but fcorcd and falted •, and, as he aflfured the Cap- tain, moft of the fiefh bcfuics was eaten. Our Commander made figns to return the cutter; but was told, it was broke up and burnt for the iron. Some prefents were irade to this friendly chief, who departed well fatisfied. We were now preparing to depart, when provifions of I lOux tter i for this Wc tion» ot Capt. C0OK*s Voyage. 329 of all forts came pouring in upon us fader than we could confume them. The Indian kept ^*9 promife, and On the 23d brought the bones of the Cap- tain that were mifllng : thefe were all placed in due form in a cafe made for the purpofe, and under a triple difcharge from the fliips bu- ried in the bay. The terror of the Indians on this occaiion was increafed by a four pound ball being loaded by miftake, which fortunately did no other mifchief, than that of exciting the jealoufy of the Indians that our profeflions of peace were not fincere, which polTibly might be the cafe with him who loaded the gun, as the failors in general could hardly be retrained from violence, whenever an Indian came within their power. Nothing more remained now to be done. The repairs being compleated, fo far, at leaO-, as our circumftances would allow, we bent our fails in the morning, and were vidced by many of our former friends, among whom was the king's youngeft fon, a boy of about fourteen years of age, of whom Captain Cook was remarkably fond, and the boy, in return, was no lefs attached to the Captain. He came to cxprels his forrow for the accident that had happened, which he did by a plentiful flow of tears. He gave us to underftand, that his two brothers were killed, and that his fa- ther was Bed to the adjoining idand. Captain Clarke made him fome prcfcnts that were plea- Bb fing 1 4] 330 Capt. COOK'S Voyaojj. fing to him, and he departed very oiufih .com- forted. About 7 in the evening, a bree^p fpringin|j \ip in our favour, we unmoored, and loon jeft the harbour, Ihaping our coutfe tp the I^. W- Nothing remarkable till 4 , a '. /^ The 28th, when we opened upon a fine bay, in one of the Leeward Iflands, called by the inhabitants O-aa-ah, whtre the fiiips came to ^n anchor, and where both Captains landed but made a very Ihort ftay. Several of the in- habitants came on board, who were fo immo- derately fond of iron, that they endeavoured to wrench the ring-bolts from the hatches. Here we put afliore the family that accompanied us from O-whye, and here we purchafed a few fmall fwine, bread fruit and plantains, and a quantity of a root, called Ta-ce, not un- like fern root, but of an enormous fize, fome weighing from 60 to 70 pounds. It is an ex- cellent anti-fcorbutic of the faccharine kind. Pounded, we made an excellent liquor from it, very pleafant and exceedingly wholefome: we had quantities of it when we reached Kamlhat- fka, and as good as when firft purchafed. Ha- ving found nothing elfc to engage our attention in this ifland, we fet fail in the evening, and This day, March i, about noon, we arrived at the Ifland of Ne-hu, and moored.in our old birtli» where we vidlualled and repaired the winter before. Here we were received with fceming Capt: cook's VoYAoi: 3^1 reemlng kindnefs. Hogs and the produce of the iQand were brought us in abundance i but when our cafks were landed, in order to ex> change our Water, (that of 0-why-he being both bitter and brack i(h, and the water here cxcellent)the coopers were no fooner fet to work» than one Indian fnatched up his adze, another his bucket, a third his bag of nails, and fo on | and this among a croud of natives oif' more than 4 or 500 in number. To put a flop to thefe depredations, - orders were given to fire over their heads.-, but this not having the defired efFcdt, a gun from the (hips threw them all into confufion. Two were feen to drop, and by the (hrieks and cries of the women, more were fuppofed to have been killed or wounded* For a While the multitude retreated ; but being rallied by fome of their chiefs, who doubtlefs had heard that we were not invulnerable, they returned in greater numbers than before, when it was thought prudent to lay afide watering, and to provide for our own fafety. All hands were now ordered to their pofts, and an en- gagement commenced in earned, when the In- dians inftantly gave way, after a few being killed and wounded by our fire, and they never again offered the leaft violence during our tlay^ A perfect agreement took place,and prefents were mutally exchanged on both fides. Here all the bad water was ftarted from both (hips, and a plentiful (lock of good water taken on board, to B b 2 ferve 332 Capt. COOK'S Voyaob: ferve us during our long run to Kamlhatika, for which we were preparing. Here one of the chiefs, named Noo-oh-a expreffed a defire to accompany us in our voyage, when, being told that we were never more to return to that ifland, he lamented the opportunity he had loll: when we were here before } and pointing to the fun, feemed to fuppofe that we fiiould vifit that luminary in our courfe, and that the thundec and lightning of our guns, and that which came from the heavens were both derived from the fame fource. From this harbour we failed on the 9th, and vifited the oppofite fide of the ifland, where we had likewife pafTed a part of the former winter. Here we were received with much kindnefs and hofpitality ; and here we purcha- fed yams and potatoes for our fummer's con- lumption, which the companies of both (hips were- glad to exchange for their allowance of bread, that part of their food being both fcanty and bad. Befides the natural produdlions of the country, we purchafed in thefe iflands many tons of fait i much of their cordage and cloth ; and a great variety of artiBcial curiofities, fuch as their weapons of war, their inftruments for fifliing *, their cloaks and coverlids ; their caps, mafks, nets, inftruments of mufic ; their nee- dles, thread, working-tools, bracelets, ear-jew- els, and, in (hort, aloioft every thing that was new to us, or which was peculiar to them ; a- mong A- Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 3^3 mong which were Tome houfhold utenfils, and prints for imprefling their cloth. The ifland we are now preparing to leave lies in lat. 2 1 deg* 49 min. N. and in long. £. from Lon- don J 93 nearly. On the 15th we came to fail, and foon after we were informed that Capt. Clarke was taken ill. We at firfl: ftood to the weftward, veering a little to the fouth, in fearch of a fmall ifland, which we were told abounded in turtle. We continued this courfe till The gcth, when we were in lat. 20 deg. 19 min. N. long. 1 80 deg. 40 min. per watch. We now altered our courfe, and fleered N. W. April I, we continued fleering N. W -J- W. lac. 2 1 deg. 46 min. N. long. 1 80 deg. 2 min* On the 3d we crofled the Northern Tropic, long. 1 76 deg. 39 min. E. fleering N. W. by N. in a diredt courfe for Kamfhatfka. On the third day after leaving the Ifland of Ne-hun, it began to blow a hard gale, which continued with very little intermiflfion till the prefent day, when our fhip became very leaky, and we were informed, that the Refolution was much worfe than the Difcoverv. * On the 9th, for the firfl time, fince our leaving Ne-hun, we had an obfervation, and found our- felves in lat. 32 deg. 16 min. long. 167 £. On the 10th we obferved a tropic bird ho- vering about the fhip, and by her motions we expeded her to light, being far to the north- B b 3 ward 334 Ca?t« cook's Voyage. ward of her proper climate •, however (he left us, and made for the Refolution. In the eve- ning it began to blow with heavy rain, and con- tinued an unremitting gale till The igthjwhen we were in lat. Spdeg. 5omtn* very cold and foggy. As we now began to ap- proach the higher northern latitudes, the flannel jackets, that had been ftored up while we were among the Tropical iflands, were again brought into ufe, and were of infinite fervice to th? poor men. We now altered our courfe to the eal^ward, having great figns of land on our lar- board beam. On the 15th, being in lat* 41 deg. 59min; the figns of land increafed. The weather being fine and clear, we feized this opportunity to fparch for the leak, and, knowing it to be for- wards, wc moved the fails from the fore fail room, and found them wringing wet •, but the Ipak was out of our reach •, however, when the weather was fine, it gave us very little trouble. On the 1 6th the Refolution's boat came on board, and Capt. Gore and our id Lieutenant went to vifit Capt. Clarke, who dill continued" very ill. On their return, they brought a diimal account of the condition of the Refolution ; iiie became leaky on the 7th, when it blew a temped. On the carpenters going down to the cockpit for lights, they were alarmed by finding themfclves over their (hoes in water, and, upon further examination, the cafks in . . the ■^^\. Capt. COOK'S Voyage. S35 tKc fifti-room and fpirit-room were driving one againfl: another, by which two cafks of French brandy were ftaved; They then fearched for- wards, where they found the coal-hole fix feet deep in water, and the (hip's whole comple- ment of paint deftroyed ; feveral cafl^s of (hells^ and cufioiities ttaved, the light-roond deck' blown up, and the bulk head between the gun- ner's (lore-room and the coal-hole burft open. In this alarming fituation they continued during'- the whole time that the ftormy weather lafted,' pumping night and day, and every officer in' the (hip (the Captain, who was ill, only excep- ted) took his turn with the common men, who* were fickening apace with fatigue; nor were they then relieved from hard ducy, when our gentlemen left the fliip •, which was the reafon we could make no (lay, to examine the extent of De" Gama's or Company's Land, which, however, we difcovered, by our run, not to extend far- ther to the caftward than it is marked in our' ordinary maps. Their misfortune did not end' with the damages above recited •, much of their bread was fpoiled, and they were forced to take from us a ton of yams to fupply its place. On tiie 1 8th we loft fight of the Refolution ; but by every appearance, were at no great dif- tance from land. Large pieces of timber drifced by us, and land-birds innumerable were fcen to the weftward. We were now in lat. 46 .T . . B b 4 • f dfg. :i ■ 'l^!|| 3^6 Capt. cook's Voyage. deg. lo min. running at the rate of 7 or 8 knots an hour. On the 19th we came in fight of the Refolu* tion: and, though it blew hard, they threw out the Hgnal for us to make fail, from whence we concluded that their leak dill diftrefied them. At noon we were in lat* 48 deg. 38 min. and long. 159 deg. 10 min. On the 20th we had a deep fnow, attended with froft, by which our men were expofed to incredible hardlhips. It fell fo heavy upon the decks and rigging that it was next to impolTible to keep them clear, or, not being clear, to make the ropes traverfe. Fortunately it ceafed freez- ing in the night* On the 20th we were in lat. 49 deg. 48 min. when we began to get every thing in readinels for coming to anchor. On the 2 ad we were in the latitude of Lon- don 5 the water of a milky colour, but no foundings at 85 fathom. In the evening the Refolution made the fignal to tack (hip, and we never afterwards faw her till our arrival at our deftincd harbour. ^ r; On the 23d we came in fight of land, very barren, very rugged, and covered with fnow 1 from whence we were diftant not above a leaaue with our (larboard tacks on board, the water near the (hore black with wild fowl, and a (heet of ice (kirting the land, covered with fea-lions, leals and other amphibious animals* At half paft > r.' -1 Capt. cook's Voyage. 337 pad 10, P. M. we pi c about, finding by our log-book and watch chat we were 50 miles to leeward of our port* On the 25th we were out of fight of land, with a heavy gale, a fall of fnow, piercing cold» and 20 of our hands frod-nipped* '.• The 26th it blew hard from the N. E. We kept working to windward, which doubled our labour, and our concern for our Commodore increafed fo much the more, as we judged by our own fu^erings, what mud be the fate of the Refolution, that was much lefs able to ftruggle with the dorm than the Difcovery. The dorm continuing with fleet and fnow» three men could fcarce do the work of one. <• Amidd thefe complicated didrefles, our leak increafed to an alarming degree. On the 28th we made 17 inches in 3 hours. The wind dying away, we tried the current, and found we drifted half a mile an hour to the fouthward. A man was fent up to the mad*- head to look round for the Refolution, but without fucceeding. We now gave her over for loft. , . . V "■; On the 29th we ftood in for the land, and at 2 in the afternoon, we came in fight of the en- trance of the bay of Kamdiatflca, then didant between feven and eight miles to the fouthward. We made fail and ftood right in -, but finding It frozen over, we judged that the Refolution could not poflibly be there, and therefore con- cluded that (he muft have gone to (he bottom* '. i >. Early $$9 CaPT. COOK'S toYAGEi Early next morning we once more attempted the entrance of the bay, and finding the ice drifted, we conceived hopes, that we might be- able to force a paflage through the loofe ice, which, now the weather was fine, did not ap** pear fo formidable as before. About noon a^ pleafant breeze fprung up, and we dircfted our courfe to a flag we faw difplayed juft within the^ bay, and happily fucceeded, dropping our an- chor in 20 fathom water, within lefs than threes leagues of our intended harbour. In about' Half an hour, while our boats were dill look-- iflg out for a pafTage, we obferved at a diftance' two boats making towards us, one of which we knew to belong to the Refolution. The other' belonged to the Ruffians. No joy could ex- ceed that, which the news of the fafety of the Re- folution fpread through the whole (hip's company of the Difcovery. She had been in port ever flhcc the 2^th and had given us over for loft, never expeding t(y fee us more. 6he had met with fome damage in her fails and rigging ; but' by htr fortunately hitting the harbour, (he had efcaped much of the diftrefs that we fuifered from the feverity of the weather. Early on the firft of May, we weighed, hav- ing the Refolution*s boat to direft us. Soon after day-light, we were within the light-houfc near the entrance of the harbour, but were op- pofcd by a ftrong tide from the (bore, which drifting huge pieces of floating ice againft us, made our further progrefs both dangerous and '• . . fatiguing; red us, nd is** Ca?!** cook's Voyaoe. ^39 f j^l;iguii^ ; but, bj^vipg the wind fanr, abouft five in tii^ eventing we cacne to in jQgiit o£ the tQ\y^n, and fooQ afcet 4coj>t anchor aear tho R^folution, . . , On the %d the Refolution unmoored, and bQtK fhips canne to, and moored withioL a mile of tb.e town, and withjn a cabl^'ai length of the ice, which entirely lh.ut up the head of the bay. Here we found only ont fmaU flppp. about 50 tons, which,, as foon as, the ice was clear, was bound, on. a trading voy-- age to the northward. We had no fponer droptr anchor than our boat was ordered out, and our Captain, with fcvcral, other gentlemen, went to. vlfit Capt. Clarke, and to take his orders for oi^ri future proceedings. We found him ftill. growing weaker and weaker.i wt therefore fhor- tened pyr ftay. Q^ the 3d both Captains, attended by the principal ofi^cers and gentlemen, went on (hgrc, arid were received by a fubaltern who now. had. th&comnMnd of the fprt, fituated clofe by a little miferable town, called A- watch-a, which, by its* appearance, could not be fupppfed to.furnilh; provifions for the (hips crews a. fiogle week* We f9on learnt that the governor lived at a town., called Bolchaia^reka, didant about 70 miles, and that an exprefb had been fent to hjm to no- tify our arrival. The fubaltern, in the mean time fliewcd us every civility. We found on our landing, a fledge drawn by dogs in rcadi- ncls to receive our Commodore, who was in fo weak (Mil ' \i3 340 Capt. cook's Voyage: weak a flate as not to be able to walk, and to conduft him to the refidence of the governor when at Kamfhatfka, where moft of the officers and gentlemen had apartments allotted them during our day. It was not however a little ilrange, that though we were expefbed, and that the emprefs of RufTia had given orders to her governor, to furnilh us with every accom- modation in his power, that not a creature was CO be found that underftood any other language than that of the natives of the place, and of Ruflia; neither of which languages was intelli- gible to any of us, fo that having no interpre-*^ ter, every thing was to be learnt by figns. Capt. Clarke, with feme gentlemen who at- tended him, flept on (hore for the benefit of the air. They were entertained with ftewed filh, venfon-foups, and other difhes, drefled after the manner of the country j and the offi- cer who now afted as deputy governor, behaved with an uncommon degree of civility, or more properly, fervility, by paying every attention that his circumftances would admit, to make the Captain's accommodations comfortable. He made him underdand, that at the didance of a- bout i6 wrefts,at atown called Parantanka there lived a pried who might poITibly be able to con- vcrfe with him -, and with that view he the very next day fcnt an cxprcfs to invite him to the fort, at the fame time intimating, that the go- vernor was a German, who could talk all lan- . guages. T Capt. COOK'S Voyage; 341 guages, which accounts for the omiflion before complained of; and indeed, as it afterwards ap- peared, we were expected here the preceding fummcr, and that our arrival now was unlook« ed for. On board, the carpenters were bufy in dripping the (hip's bows, and the failors in get- ting the lick on Qiore, with every part of the (hips (lores that (lood in need of revifal ; and though the weather continued piercing cold, no time was loft in forwarding the repairs. On the 4th one of our boats, in putting the aftronomer's aflfiftant on (hore at the influx ^o^^ the tide, was fuddenly encircled by the floating ice in fuch a manner, as not to be able to move one way or the other, another bo^t fent to her relief was foon enclofed in the f&me manner, and till the return of the tide both were forced to remain in that deplorable fitua^ion, not a perfon on board daring to trufl: himfelf among the floating ice to endeavour to make his ef- cape. About 12 at night they were releafed, and the icey prifoners returned on board almoft perifhed with cold. . On the 5th fix gentlemen arrived from 60I- chaia*reka, among whom was a merchant who came to trade for (kins, fome of which he pur- chafed from us, as we thoughr, at great prices ; but as we afterwards found for little more than half their value. Thefe are all monopolized by the KuITian Company already mentioned in our account of the lall fummer's voyage, and not a (kin to be had from the Kani(hai(kadalc9. Tiie 1:;. I. 341 Capt; COOK'S VoYAdt; The gentleman was accompanied by the gcvtt* nor's fecretary, who could fpeak both German and Dutch, and who brought a letter from tht governor, written in German, complementing the Commodore on his arrival, tendering his beft fervices, and excufmg his abfence; ad- ding at the fame time, that when he Was made acquainted with the neceffarics of whith we flood in need, he would give immediate ordera for their fiipply as far as was m his power, and that he would then embrace the firll opportuAi- ty'of waiting upon the Commodore, It hap- pened, that Mr. Webber, our draughtfman, was mafter of the German ; and on reading the letter it was thought more rcfpc6bful, as well as more fuitable to the occafion, for Capt. Gore, in thcillncts of our commander, to be the mcf- fenger himfclf, as he could give a more parti- cular account of our many wants, than could poffibly be tranfmicted in a letter. On the 6th' the Ruffian gentlemen were entertained on board the (hips, Mr. Webber ailing as interpreter to- the merchant, and the governor's fecretary being, maftier of the French, was wdl enough under- ftood to make the converfation and the bottle pafs jovially round. About ten at night the company parted i and ' - * • In the morning of the 7t!i Capt. Gore, at- tended by lieut. King, of the Refolution, and Mr. Webber, and accompanied by the mer- chant and Kufiian fecretary, fet out for Bolchaia- reka, where, after a moft fatiguing journey, they Capt. cook's Voyage: 343 th/ey arrived on the 13th, and were received by ithe Governor wich a politenefs.chat did honour €0 the poll he filled. After the ufual falutations, they entered into general converfation, when our gentlemen foon difcovered that the governor was not only a man of breeding, but of general knowledge i that he had been made acquainted, by his court, with our intention of touching at Kamfhatika ; but tjiat the charadler of our firft commander, Capt. Cook was known to him, by the account given of his former expeditions ; and the whole route, that he was fuppofed to purfue in the pre« fent expedition, he had deduced from his own conje^ure. Capt. Gore, when he came to fpeak of our north-weft courfe, put the let- ter into his hands, which our Commodore received from the Ruflian fatflor at Samga- nuida (of which notice has already been ta- ken,) and which chiefly related to the bufinefs of the faftory, having only flightly touched upon the civilities he had received from us, and had reprefented us as merchant fhips, en- gaged in a new line of commerce, which he apprehended might be injurious to that in which the fadtory was engaged. Such is thejealoufy the Ruffians entertain of the trade to the norths which they now look upon as we did formerly upon the trade 10 America, as of right belong»» ing to them ; — founding their claim on their pri- ority of difcovery, Bhering having firft traced the way to the north weft continent of Ameri- ca. r: H'< '!!, , 544 ^APti COOK'S VoyAG** ca, though he loft his life in thepurfuit. This -obfervacion however being foreign to the fubjeft of his commiiTion^ Capt. Gore pafled unno- ticed ; and having dined and fpent the day of his arrival agreeably, he next morning took oc« cafion to deliver to the governor, a lift of thofe articles of which the ftiips ftood moft in need ; reprefenting at the fame time the (battered con- dition of the (hips, and how much they were in want of fails and cordage, as well as provi- iions, having met with no fupply of beef or bread from the time they left England in 1776, 10 the prefent day, nor of tobacco, a chief article with our Tailors, tho* for three months they had been under the neceflity of fubfifting without. The governor heard him with atten- tion, and a(rured him, that he had her imperial majefty's pofitive orders to furnifti the Britifh (hips upon Difcovery with every a(riftance in his power *, and that his inclination as well as his duty, led him to do his uttermoft to com- ply with his requeft ; that he would ranfaA the country round as far as his jurisdiflion reached^ to fupply him with rye meal, but that wheat meal could not po{ribly be procured, becaufe the country produced none ; nor would it be eafy to fupply the (hips with beef, except for prefcnt confumption, as the time of the year was unfuttable, none being killed there in the winter, nor any fit to kill till the grafs in the fucnmer had recruited their fleth. He added, tha^ lobacco was not among the articles allowed Capt. COOK'S VoYAOB. 345 by Her Imperial Majefty, but that he would for their ufe fparc 400 weight from his own fiores ; and what canvas and cordage the man gazines coMld prpduce (bould be at the Commo- dore's fervice, whofe ill ilate of health h^ moft fiqcerely regretted. Thefe civilities were ac^ ^ompanied with the molt lively expreflions of ^fteem *, and, when Capt. Gore took leave, he complimented him with his owq carriage, or- dered a horfe round for the Commodore to ridp out for the benefit of the air, anc) a ^Qvf to fup- ply him with frefti cream and milk, ^nd recoi- ledtjng afterwards that the geptl^men might, probably, be in w^nt of tea and fugar, he fent 100 weight of the latter, a|id 20 lb. of $he former for a prefent fupply, ; V/V ftiould be wanting in juftice to this wor- |hy Governor, were wp to p^fs over his beha- viour to MS unnoticed, which was fuch as did honour to his feelings as a Man, ^nd to H^r {mpeilal Majefty as ap Officer. Our gentlenien had not been returned many days, when they were followed by the Gover- nor himfelf, who, after enforcing his orders for our immediate fupply from the country, came to examine what couki be fpared from the fortrefs. Ffe was received by Capt. Clarke, on board the Refolution ; and every mark of attention paid him, which his fervices fo well ^cfcrved. 9000 weight of rye meal was foon ^ftcr colleftcd from different diftrifts at a great ^ C p diflance, Mi lil II 'l",f.? jiS Capt. COOK'S VbvAOi. di(^ance« and conveyed to us at no tnconfidef^ ble expence, atcompanied wkh 20 head of born^ ed cattle. Thefeour failors rejoiced to fee, and, tho' fkeletons compared with thofi: of Etrgland^ #ert received by us with an eagernefs rtot ea« illy to be exceeded} for not having had tht tt\i(h of freih beef for more than three years, the very fcr apings of the bones would haVt hctn to our Tailors, at this time a tre^t inBnUety itiore grateful than at home they would hare thought the moft profufe feaft. ' ^' ' " It was the 23d before the Governor arrived it Pdrrantanka, in the vicinage of which the Jyrieft refided, of whom we have already fpo* keA. With him the Gdvernof fpent the aiFter- noon, but when night came he flept at the fort. ^ * , ; On the 25th the pinnace from the RefblU- tion was manned and properly equipped to bring him on board. He Wa& faluted With li guns from the Refolution, and ilie fame hutn- ber froM the Difcovery } and when he entered the (hip he Was received with mufic, and With ^11 the honours that circumthnces would admit-, and he was fo Well pleafed with his recepcioh, that he (laid two days and two nights on board : during which time he had but very little top. Capt Clarke, being ill, (lept on (hore, and left the care of his entertainment to his ofHcers, who did not fail to make it agreeable. SOflfie very noble prelents were made him at his de- parture. and [CCTS, >dthe Is de- [ture» CAfT. COOK'S Vqvaoe. 347 parturt i confifting of curiofitics coUcdled from every part of the world, with a gold watch, two fowling-pieces, a brace of filvcr-mountcci piftols, and other valuable articles of Englii^ manufafturci to all which were added, near lOo gallons of brandy from the (hip's (lores, as a prefent from the failors out of their allow* «iice,in lieu of the tobacco that he had geaerouQy ordered to be divided amongft them gratis, which at that time was in fuch eftimation, that he, who had been provident enough to mak^ « referve, fold it nearly at the price of Olver. Orders were now given to get every thing on board, and prepare to fail as fad as poffible ( both (hips had been dripped of their (heathing to the water's edge ; but the leak of the Difco- very was found much lower, being a hole worn in her bow, which, had not the hull been cleared, could never have been come at. -^^ Having now got the meal on board, the crews were ferved with an allowance of half rye and half Hower •, which, however, not be^ ing accuftomed to it, they did not very well re- H(b, though it was found to be very wholefome. The Governor had made Capt. Clarke a pre- fcnt of a cow, for which it was neceffary to pro- vide provender ; and large quantities of ducks, geefc and poultry were taken on board to fupply tkt want of other live-ftock •, for here they had no iheep, nor any other domeftic animal, ex- cept dogs, which ferve the natives both for horfes C c 2 and •ii. il 'I ■I'l V 'f I i 111 ' lil; if I li I'll ii; I'* ■f *• 348 Capt. C O O K's VoYAdf.' and hunting; nor was there a cow in the counn try, that we faw, except that the Governor fent by Capt. Clarke, and one in poITcfllon of theprieft. ' ' We had now been here a month, when ^ On the 4th of June, being his Majefty's birth- day, the fame was celebrated with great magnifi- cence on board and on fhore. The (hip's were drefTed with dreamers and with the colours of all nations; and a flag was difplayed at the tents. The Ruflian gentlemen were fumptu- oufly entertained on board ; and the common men were ferved with double allowance of meat and liquor, and, being permitted to diverc themfelves on fliore, many of them made pap- ties and traverfed the woods in purfuit of game, with which they were told the country abounded,' But, as they were ignorant of their haunts, they met with no fuccefs. , ^ .. , . . ■* Before our departure, pacquets were entruf- ted to the care of the governor, to be forwarded to England by the way of Pcterfburgh, both for government and to private friends ; thefe we have fince found were carefully tranfmitted; And now, having all things in readinefs, our full complement of wood and water on board, and of every necelTary the country afforded, and waiting only for a wind, ^ Early on the 1 2th of June we weighed and failed, direding our courfe to the northward ; but were detained in the bay till . ^ . ^> The Cai»t. COCK'S Voyaob; 349 The 15th, when we were alarmed with a ftoife louder than the loudeft thunder, and pre**' fently were almoft blinded with a fall of a(hes» which, in lefs than an hour, covered the decks all over from (lern to Hern, among which were mixed pumice (lones as large as walnuts. We were all driven down between decks ( but about ten in the morning were releafed by the ihower ceaHng. On looking round, we found they iiTued from a volcano at the diltance, as ve fuppofed, of about 20 miles, then bearing from us W. S. W. During this eruption, we iRrere not only obliged to retire ourfelves, but to beitan down the hatches fore and aft % fo that what with the clofentfs of our confine- ment, and the fulphureous fmell from the flames, we were almoft fuflPocated. But we were no looner releafed, than we weighed an* chor and (leered to the eaftward. On the 17th and 18th we continued our ^ourfe E. and E. by N. On the 19th (leered E* by N. Lat. 54deg. 56 min. N. v . On the 20th came in fight of land, high, and covered with fnow; called by Bhering, Kamtfchatlka-nofs, but found that Cape a de- gree more to the fouthward than he had laid it down. Lat. 55 deg. 52 min. On the a lit we continued to fteer E. N. E. faw a whale, two feals and a number of fea- lions. 4 The C c 3 •.4 On ,i5- I if! \H \ 150 Capt. COOK'S VoYAoc; On thttid we Hood to the N. E. and, (be- ing a change in the colour of the water, wf ibunded, but found no ground in lOp fathom* We continued the fame courfe till the a5th» when we were in lac. ^y deg. 9 min. and lon|^ 168 deg. |o min. £. On the a6th we changed our courfe E.N.B- and finding the fea covered with guilt and fliag^ we founded, but found no ground at lao £l» fhom. '^^ On the a 7th we ftood £. ^N* and found durfelves by obfervation in lat. 59 deg. 57 min. long. 172 E. We changed our courfe, and ftood N.N.W. ,^ On the 28th, early in the morning, wc came in fight of land, very high and covered with fnow, the extreme point of which bore N. E. diftande about 6 leagues. We conti- nued our courfe along fhorc, with regular Ibundings at about 54 fathom, free from reefs, and a very bold fhore< We fteered this courfe till The 30th, at noon, when we were in lat. 62 deg. I min. .j On the I ft of July, the weather began to grow haty, with thick fogs. We ft ill kept toafting on till The 3d in the morning, when the fogs left «• and it began to rain. At ten in the morn. kig, faw a very high point of land, bearing from ua N. N, E. diftance about ; leaguei. We C^fT. COOK'S VoyAOB. 351 We hauled upon a wind, and (lood £. N. E, ijif two in the afternoon* when we pafled a ^a^l iOaod^ called by the Ruflians, St. Ni» ^olas ; in (bme parts very high and covered ^ith ^w. Lat. 6jdeg. 45min. long. 187.' On the 4th at one in the morning, we bore f way N« ^ £. and about noon, the next day, iaw land from W. to N. £. appearing jik^ two iHands. At four o'clock we hauled up to W. N. W. being near land, and founding from z6 ro zg fathom. On the 6ch we continued coafting from K.{- W. to N. tE. with the land to the wefk- ward high and fnowy. Lat. 67. deg. iomin« k-g. 187 E. "J the 7th, faw ice in a large body to the e.uward, diftance about 2 or 3 leagues, and fbout noon pafTed feveral large fields of ice. yTc tacked and ftood N- W. by W. with a ftiff gale and heavy fnow. Ob the Kth fell in with the ice again in a fo« 4id body, at the fame time bore away S.S.W. On the 9th, at three in the morning, we liauled up along fide the folid ice, freezing cold fUday. I^at. 69deg. 12 min. ' ' On the loth continued our courfe all the morning, and at nine palFcd a large field of loole ice, didance about 3 miles, and at nooa went through it. On the nth we found ourfelves furrounded with ice. We kept working to the S. E. paf* C c 4 fing 1- ■I i ^^i CapT. CObK*S VOTAGB. fing many large fields of ice, covered with kk cows. We kept luffing up and bearing ^way^ till with fome difficulty We got through. Ldt^ bbiferved 67 deg. 40 min. long. 186 deg. id mih> We continued working through th^ ice till ¥he 14th, when by objfervation we vfcic Iti iat. ^9 deg. 37 min. We continued bearing Away to the hotthWard, till The 18 th, when by obfervation we were in iat. 70 deg. 28 min. and, being very neair the ice, a large white bear palTed us in the w^ter ; but made for the ice at a great rate. In half atl hour, we faw multitudes of them upon the ice, making to the eaflward, when we obferved the fea-cows^ as the bears approached therti, fiying like (heep purfucd by dogs. , On the 20th We came in fight of land at the diftance of about 5 or 6 leagues, bearing front S. to S. £. founded from 24 to 21 fathom- " On the 2ift we ftood from W. ^ N. to W. N. W. and at fix o'clock we pafled a large: ifland of ice, on which were whole herds of fea-cows of an enormous fize. We fired feveral muficets among them, which fcnt them to the water with dreadful yellings. At nine in the evening we came in fight of the American fliore, diftant about 6 leagues. We (leered all night W. by N- and next morning found ourfeWes almod furrounded with fields of ice drifting to the fouihward. Ac twelve o'clock ' we Capt. CO OK' is VoYACtl 35 J )ffc hauled our wind to the foulhward, ind» by the alertnefs of our feamen, we paHrd it with very little damage. > ^" m*^ ii j it:* J*" On the morning of the 23d it canie on to blow very hard, and, before noon, we found ourfelves clofely blocked up in the ice, and could fee It all round us in a folid body, to a great diftance. At the fame time we favt the Refolution bearing N. E.^E. fome milel off, which was the laft light we had of her^ during the whdle day. Ih this horrid fituation^ Ave handed all our fails, unbent our fore top«> fail, and moored (hip with both our ice an* thors, one to each bow* • "•'■■ -t''' • • f»rf •-! ''We now began to reHe^^ on our condition y The winter drawing on apace *, our provifioni ihort, and what we had but very indifferent | and no relief to be expected ; our people's fpi- rits began to (ink, and it was with difficulty that they were perfuaded to exert themfekes for their own deliverance. Fortunately for us, we had, in the evening, a (hift of wind from W. N. W. with a fteady breeze, when our Captain, looking over our ftarboard quarter, dif* cerned the ice to the fouthward, (ieemingly td leave the (hip, and foon heard a cra(h, as if a thoufand rocks had been rent from their founda- tions •, which we afterwards perceived to be the parting of the ice in different diredions *, and foon after found ourfelves rcleafed. We inftantly got up our ice-anchors, and (haped our courfe from S. fi. 354 Capt. C O O K* s VoYAei; S* E. to E. S. E. but were frequently ftoippcd by large pieces, which carried away great part of our iheaching forward, and damaged our ftern, fo that the ihip made water at the rate of three inches an hour. " • On the 24th we continued our courfe B.S.E. and caoae in fight of the Refolution, whicli had iikewife received much damage about her bows. We were now dear of the ice, aad» till three in the afternoon, failed in companf , lal\ we came up with a (olid body, on which we faw a number of amphibious animals, fome of them very large* We kftaotly got out^ind manned our baats, and in three hours returned with eleven of the largefl-, about which all hands were employed the next day in ikinning and cutting them up for blubber* ^ -' On the 25th v» palTed feveral fields of ke. And at noon was at the extreme of the eaftern* nod land in fight. Being then in lat. 69 deg. 12 min. and, by lunar obfervation, in long. 187 dfg. i6min£. of London* :: i .v., iv ,^ji^ r. On the 27th we found ourfelves involved again among the loofe ice, fome of which Ic was out of our power to efcape, and the kidc ftill continuing rather to increafe than abate, our Captain, with Mr. Bailey the aftronomcr, and Mr. Burney, our i ft lieutenant, went 00 board the Refolution, to report our iituation to the Commodore, whom they found fo ill aa to be paft all hopes of recovery. Upon cal-* ling CaPT. COOK'S VOYAGI. ^s$ ling a couflcil of officers, it was unaoimouQy agreed, that we fliould proceed as fad as poffi- bk to fome port, where we might repair our damages, and KamihatiUa was jippointed our place of rendezvous. We were now in lat. ^8 f|eg. JO min. and m long. 183. On the 28th| at two in the morning we came m fight of the AGa (hore, very high and co* vered with fnow, diftance about 7 c j *eagues, w^ cpade fail and flood to the ibuthward. Abouc noon we found ourfekes in lat. 67 deg. 1 1 min. and in long* by double altitudes 18 S deg. io min. £• The extreme of the eailernraoil Mod diftant about 6 leagues* At .^cn at night we iaw t great nttmber of ducks, geefe^ and 4ea parrots Tery near us, by which we j*udg«d land could not be far off. ^ 7 ^ On the 29th at noon we were in lat. 65 d^g. 50 min. and long. iBS deg. 270110. but no land '■'■'■ On the ^th we fteered till aoon to the S. £. wkh a fieady breeze, and catne in fight of two iflands right a- head, diftant about five or fiir leagues. The weather then became chick and hazy, and though wie were certain that die main land of Alia and America were at no great dif- tance;, we coukl fee neUtver till about four o'ckKk in the afternoon, the weather clearing up, we iaw a pUfTage or ftreight, to whkh we bore away, fttid found t^ie two cofitinents at ieven o'clodk «adi lide of us. This ftreight was called Bhering's 1-1 . li |! ft' • iV. m I 556 Capt. fcOOK's VoYACt: Bhering's ftreight, the entrance of which wd found the fame as has been already defcribed ; and the current at this time fetting tothe M. W. very Urong, made our paflage not only difficult but dangerous. v. , ,^ ;^| On the 31 we|>aired irchutiolikoi-nofs, called ^y the failors Tufkan-nofs, and foon came in fight of Cook*s town, which we vifited the laft feafon^ as has already been mentioned* Nothing remarkable till Auguft the 5th, when vre had an obfervation, and found ourfelves iti lat. 62dcg. 37 min. ^. ... On the 7th at noon we were'by obfervatioh in lat. 61 deg. 12 min. and in long. 183 deg. 45 min. and at no great diftance from the land. At four o'clock having a dead calm, the com- panies of both fliips employed themfelves in fifti- ing, and very fortunately caught a number of Jarge cod, which were equally diftributed a- mong the crews. To this place we gave the name of the Bank of Good Providence ; and as foon as the breeze fprung up, we made fail and ftood to S. W. jjj.ri ; , J, .; . : ,(i .i.fiiiiT, i<«' On the 9th at noon we were by obfervation in the long, of 183 deg. 36 min. 14 fee. .■■■f -■ On the loch we continued our courfe, and on the 1 2th at noon we were in lat. 56 deg. 37 min* ^iih the (hip*s head to the S. W. In the evening of the 13th we had the Refo- lution's boat on board, to compare time, who « f f .^^ i ,} ^ 4tf tv> r'l brought g'. Capt. COOK'S VoYAOB. 357 ^ brought the difagreeable news of the Captain's being given over by the furgeon.>»r;uMf. ,...<.. ^ „• • On the 13th being in foundings, and the wea^^ ther calm, we hove to, in order to get fome fi(h for the fick, and a few cod were caught and diftributed accordingly. -y K • r« On the 17th the wind that had been againft us for fome days paft (hifted in our favour, and at nine in the morning the man at the maft head called out land to the N. W. which was foon known to be Bhering Ifland, lat. at noon 53 deg, 50 min. :"." Ljj'-' : " ,^ '.^^y : .>-o. **■ ,. -a^^l. Nothing remarkable till the iiiV, when early in the morning the man at the mad head again came in fight of land. It was then at a very great didance, and upon our (larboard bow, but before night we were only diftant from the mouth of Kamfhatlka bay, 12 or 13 leagues* On the aid at nine in the morning we had the Refolution's boat on board, to acquaint Capt. Gore with the death' of our Commodore. We were then within fight of the flag, at the mouth of Kamfhatfka bay, of which mention has already been made, and the wind being fa- vourable, we continued our courfe for the en- trance of the harbour, which then bore from us W. S. W. lat. at noon 52 deg. 54 min. . On the 23d a little before midnight we came to anchor within the light-houfe. * ' • On the 24th our Capt. being now Commo- dorci made the fignal to get under way by tow- f-:. v:ii /:?L':'t. ?''? ',." . . ■■ • ' '^'- in^ IT; i 358 Caft. cook's Voyaoe; ing» all the boats were accordingly got out» and ' the Commodore went on board the Refolutoin»i where it was refolved, for the greater conve- nience of repairing the (hips, and for ercding the tents and forge to go within the upper har- bour. And about four in the afternoon both fhips came too, and were moored in three fa- thom and a half water, muddy bottom. Early next morning the tents were ere^ed, and the Tick were got on ihore. From the time wc fet fail out of this bay in June, till the prefent day, we had been in no harbour to refit ; and had been driven from iQand to idand among the ice, till our fhips had in a manner loft their fheathing, and were others wife in a miferable condition i we were therefore happy in arriving fafe. - - " Auguft 25, an exprefs was fent to Balchaia- reka, to acquaint the governor of our arrival, and of the death of our late Commander ; at the fame time another exprefs was fent to Par* rantanka, to defire the attendance of the prieft, lA order to confult with him concerning the in- terment of Capt Clarke, whofe defire was, to be buried in his church ; while we were waiting the iiTue of thefe melTages, the feveral promo* tions took place that followed in confequence of the Commander's death. Mr. Gore went on board the Refolution, and Mr* King, firft Lieut. of the Refolution, took the command of the Diicovery. Other promotions took place, which the reader will remark by the fequel. The firft care .^*> Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 355^ ctLtt of the commanders of both (hips was to provide for the recovery of the fick, and the repairs of the (hips; and for that purpofe « houfe was procured for the reception of the for* mtr^ and a contrivance made for heaving the latter dry. -^ < ; . ^ 'The weather being now temperate and the country delightful, the officers and gentlemen father chofe to deep in their Marquees on Ihore» than in the apartments in the fort, or in the houfes in the town. It was however thought expedient to (hew every mark of refped to the Ruffian officers, who, though not of the firft rank, were notwithftanding the only people with whom we had any concern, or with whom we could have any communication *, they were therefore frequently invited to dinner, and they as often attended. On the 26th the prieft arrived, when CapC. Gore acquainted him with the death of our conii- mander, and of his defire to be buried in his church. The good old gentleman feemed much concerned ; but darted feveral difficulties ; and appeared very unwilling to comply with the dy- ing requeft of the deceafed. He urged feveral reafons to (hew the impropriety of it •, thofe of moft weight were, that the church was foon to be pulled down ; that it was every winter three feet deep in water; and that in a few years no veftage of it would remain, as the new church was to be erc(^ed near the town of A-watch-a, ' upon !■*• 36q Capt. COOK'S Vovagi. upon a drier and more convenient fpot. H^ therefore advifcd the remains of the CommaiK der to be depoHced at the foot of a tree, the fcijte of which was to be included in the body of the^ new church, where the Captain's bones mighc probably reft for ages undifturbed. Thefe rca- fons, whether real or fictitious, the officers who had charge of the funeral could not difprovc, and therefore people were fent to dig the gr^yc, where the prieft fliould direct. .' v. iv , U 5 The 30th was appointed for the interment | and to make the funeral the more folemn, every officer was defired to appear in his uniform ; the Marines to be drawn up under arms, and com-r nion men to be dreffed as nearly alike as poffible, in order to attend the corpfe from the water-fidc to the grave. All this was readily acceded to, and the proceffion began about ten in the morn- ing, when minute guns from the (hips were fired, and the drums, muffled as ufual, beat the dead march. When the corpfe arrived at the grave, it was depofited under the triple difcharge of the Marines ; and, the grave being covered, it was fenced in by piles driven deep in the ground, and the infide afterwards filled up with ftones and earth, to preferve the body from being devoured in the winter by bears or other wild beafts, whp arc remarkable for their fagacity in fcenting out the bodies of dead paflengers, when any happcq to pcrifh and are buried near the roads. This 1 1 'bis Capt. COOK'S VoYAOB. 3$^ This ceremony over, an efcutcheon was pre? pared and neatly painted by Mr. Webber, with |hp Captain's coat of arms properly emblazon'd, ^nd placed in the church of Farrantanka, an^ \inderneath the following infcription. There lies interred at the Foot of a Tree, near the Oftrog of St. Peter and i^AUL, , The BpDY of ' CHARLES CLARK^E, E s <^m ^ ?, Commander of His Britannir. MujcHy's Ships, the Refolution and D . covery ; To which he fucceeded on the Death of Jame? pQOK, Efquirc, Who was killed by the Natives of an Ifland v^'c difcovered in the South Sea, after having ex- plored the Coaft of America, from 42 d g. 27 min. to 70 deg. 40 min. 57 fee. N in fearch of a I»Jprth-weft Paflage from EyRpPE to the ^;..i.iii:^■ EasT-InDIES. •;:',':' ■ -"""'" The Second Attempt being mqde by Captain Clarke, who failed within feme fevsr Leagues of Captain Cook ; but was brought up by a folid Body of Ice, which he found / from the America to the f^ilA Shore, _^ ^ and almoft tended due Eaft and Weft. He Died at Sea, ^ on his Return to the ^ Southward, on the V .■V ' 22d r>ay of ' , '; ' Apj^ 1., 1779. * Age^, 38 Years. ^^ P 4 . Another if- J 362 Capt. cook's Voyaor; /■ Another infcription was fixed upon the tret tinder which he was interred. This tree was at fome didance from the town and near the hofpital, round which feveral people had al- ready been buried; but none fo high upon the hill as the fpot pointed out for the grave of Capt. Clarke. The infcription placed on this tree was nearly the fame as that in the church of Parrantanka, and was as follows : Beneath this Tree lies the Body of * Captain CHARLES CLARKE, Commander of His Britannic Majefty's Ships, the Rcfolution and Difcovery. Which Command he Aicceeded to, on the i4tU of February, 17799 on the Death of ' Captain James Cook, Who was Killed by the Natives of fomp lilands he Difcovered in the Sovth Sea, on the Date above. . . ' . " ■ . . . " '• ■ • ■ • • ''^ Captain Clarke Died it Sea, " of a lingering Illnefs, on the 2 2d Day of ' August, 1779, In the 38th Year of his Age. A lid was Interred on the 30th, following, « / On Capt. COOK'S VovAoi. ^63 . On this occaiion the inhabitants of botti towns, and thpfe of the whole country for nmny miles round, attended ; and the crews of both ihips were fqfiered to continue alhore, and to divert themfelves, e^ch as he liked bed. It was the Captain's defire that they (hould have |[}ouble allowance for three days fucceiFively, and all that while to be excufed from other duty, than what the ordinary attendance in the (hip required ^ but the feafon being far advanced, and a long traft of unknown fea to craverfe be* fore they could rcaph China, the officers repre* fenting the hardlhips and inconveniences that fp much lofl: time might bring upon themfelves^ they very readily gave up that part of the Cap^ tain's bequeft, and returned to their refpec- tive employments early the next d^y. On the zd of September the Governor arrived at Parrantanka,and with him an officer called by the Ruffians Propofick, the fame 9$ in England is called CoUefbor or Surveyor. They informed Capt. Gore, that a Hoop was daily expedbed from Janeflca, laden with provi- fions and (lores of all forts for our ufe } bu^ expreflfed feme apprehenfions for her fafety, as the boats had been looking out for her feveral days. This news was of too much importance to be flighted. Accordingly On the 3d the pinnaces and boats from both (hips were fent to the entrance of the b»y, to P d ? affi(| 364 Capt. COOK'S Voyage; slSiA her, in cafe (he (hould be in fight, in tow« ing her in ; but it was The nth before Ihe arrived. She was a bark of about 100 tons, and had two guns mounted, which ihe fired as a faluce, when (he dropt an- chor, and was anfwered by a volley from the garrifon, which confided of a fubaltern and 25 foldiers. She was no fooner moored, than the Captain waited on the Governor for inftruflions, and then came on board the Refolution. He y^as introduced to the Commodore, to whom he delivered the invoice of his lading ; among yrhich was wearing apparel and tobacco, two articles that were above all others acceptable to the (hips companies. As foon as the Governor had executed his commifTion, and delivered up the (bores to the Commodore, he took his leave, and returned to Bolchaia-reka, and the (hipg being lightened before, and their bows heaved up dry, fo that the carpenters could get at the leaks, the Captains and principal officers finding little elfe to amufe them, made a party to fcour the woods for game *, but this proved the worft feafon in the year for hunting. They had been told, that rein-deer, wolves, foxes, beavers, and ilone-rams every where abounded in the fo- refts of th Capt. C OOK's Voyage; gy^ civil, and in their way very obliging j but their manner of living affords nothing very inchancing for Tailors. Our (hips being now in as good repair as we had reafon to expert from the length of the voy- age they had palfed, the rigorous weather to which they had been expofc^d, the boifterous feas they had (hipped •, and, above all, from the violent concufTions of the ice that had (haken their very frame, and had ftript them of their (heathing: and being likewife plentifully pro- vided with provifions and (lores, by the genero- iity of her Imperial Majefty of Ru(ria, and by the care and benevolence of her governor and officers. On the 9th of Oftober, 1779, we weighed, and foon were without the light-houfe, (haping our courfe to the fouthward, and On the the loth were in lat. 52 deg. 36 min. when we had a dead calm, and went to fi(hing for cod, with good fuccefs. Thermometer 52. On the [ith we purfued our courfe, and by noon were in lat* 5 1 deg. 1 min. On the 1 2th we ftood S. W. and at night founded at 62 fathom, having in the afternoon palTed three fmall iflands to the weftward of u?, Lat. 50 deg. 19 min. Thermometer 48 deg. 52 1 min. -^ . « On the 13th we were in lat. 50. Courfe as ijefcre. ' : On the 14th we ftill continued the fame courfe. ^at. 48 deg. 30 min. . , i^i^: The 15th \yc altered our courfe in fearch of (bme 17^ Capt. COOK'S Voyagr: fome Iflands, which the RuIIians faid were in- habited by people of a gigantic lize, who weret covered with hair^ but who notwithftanding were very civil, and would fupply us with cat- tle and hogs, with v/hich their iflands abounded. Thefe iflands, however, we never found, though, we continued fearching for them till The 19th, when a ftorm came on, and we loft fight of the Difcovery •, but next day were ^n company, and refumed oqr CQurfe, t|^ gale continuing till The 2 2d, when we found ourfelves in lat. 41 deg. and long. £. from London 149 deg. 20 min. The wind which had abated in the day, frefliened again about 9 at night, and fooa increafed to a gale, when we were obliged to lie- to, as we imagined, from the ufual figns, and founding at 8q fathom, that we niuft be near Und. In the morning of the z$d we ftood N.N.W. in fearch of land, but found none. At nooa by double alt. lat* 41 deg* 48 min. long. 146! deg. 17 min. £. About 10 at night we altered our courfe W. S. W» and fo continued till The 25th, when, by the time-piece, we were in long. i45«leg. 29 min. E. and continued Qur courfe with an eafy fail. At 3 in the af- ternoon a large piece of timber palTed us tQ the northward. And On the 26th, early in the morning, the man at the mad- head called out Land, dillant about 7 Of kan >uc Of CAt>T. COOK*s VovAOE. 377 7 ot 8 leagues, bearing E. by N. to N.W, We then found ourfelves within fight of Japan. Lat. 40deg. 56 tnin. long. 140 deg. 17 min. E, Thermometer 52 deg. i^^ min. Early in the morning of the 27th we faw a fail, feemingly /ery large, making towards us from the fhore. We cleared fhip, and made the fignal to the Difcovery to do the fame. She was a fquare rigged vefTel with two mafls, very fliort, and built much in the manner of the Chinefe junks. We hoifted Englifh colours. She looked at us, but made fail to the weft- ward, and we continued our courfe. On the 28th we faw land bearing W. N. W. to S. half W. diftant about 6 leagues. We then founded 64 fathom, and ilood from S. to S. E. by £. Lac. 39 at noon, long 140 deg. 10 min. Thermometer 59 and a half. On the 29th we again ftood S. half W. and in the morning obfervcd another veflel making to the eaftward at a great diftance. We again hoided Englifh colours, but Hie paid no atten- tion to them, and we purfued our courfe. On the 30th we were in lat, 36 cleg. 41 min. fleering S. W. Thermometer 64 and a half. On the 31ft faw land very high, from W, half N. to N. W. at a great diftance. Lat. 34dfg- aS'Tiin. November 1, fteered all day from S. to S. W. faw a hitjh mountain, which iVemcd to be a ^^>lcano •, but at a great diftance. Tacked and ftood to the northward. E c On 378 Capt. COOK'S Voyage, On the 2d we again tacked, and ftood E, half S. and, finding the water of a milky co- lour, founded, but had no ground at 150 fa- ihom. Lat. 36deg. 3omin. Thermometer 70 and a half. The 3d, the wind from the S. S. E. we ftill continued working lO the fouthward 5 but made little way. m ^ The 4th, the wind being againft us, we ad- vanced but flowly, being at noon in 35 deg. 49 min. only, with a great fwell from the S. W. Thermometer 72 and a half. ♦ The 5th we had only advanced 2 min. On the 6th, the wind fhifted to the N. F. made fail and ftood all day S. by W. to S.S.W. Lat. 35 deg. 15 min. The 7th, the fca all round was covered with pumice ftones floating to the northward. We now approached the climate where bonettoes, albatroHes, (harks, dolphins, and fiying-Hlh are fead been upon, perfuaded the Commodore to leave our then fitu- ation and to moor the (hips in a fafer birth to the ieeward of a fmall iflarci about two miles dif- tant, where they might remain without danger, It was now three years fince we had been ii) any port, where we could converfe any other-; wife than by figns j and before any one was fuf- fered to go alhore, the Comn\odore ca,lled all hands aft, and ordered them to deliver up their journal.?, and every writing, remark, or memo^ rani^am that any of them had made of any par-: tuular rcfpeding rhe 'vyage, on pain of the fe-r vcreft punilhmenr in cafe of rnncealment, in or- der that all thole journals, writmgs, remarks or memorandums, refpeding the voyage, might be fealed up, and directed to the Lords of the Admi- ralty. At the fame time requiring that every chari el" Capt. COOK'S Voyage 383 of the coafls, or of any part of any of the coafts where we had been, or draught of any thing curious nnight be delivered up in like manner, in order to accompany the journals, &c. all which was complied with ; and the pa- pers were made up and fealed accordingly in fight of the whole crew, the papers of the com- miflioned officers by themfelves, the papers of the non-commiflioned officers by themfelves, and the papers of the marines and common men by themfelves. The boats were then ordered out and fent to Mocao for frelh provifions> which next day weie dealt out to the (hips companies at full allowance. But before thefc could return, there came from the town boats with beef, veal, pork, ducks, geefe, turnips, carrots, lemons, oranges, and every other ar- ticle of provifions which the ifland produced ; fome as prefents to the Caprains and officers ; but by far the greateft part to make their marker. Being now fafely moored, the firft thing that claimed the attention of the Commodore, was to provide as well as he could for the fafcty of the crews in their return home. The news of a French war, without letiin*^ us know at the fame time the order iflucd by the French king in our favour, gave us much concern. Our fliips were ill fitted for war-, the decks fore and aft being finilhed fluffi had no covering for meo or officers; it was theretore thought neccfikry to ftrcngthen the (lanchions and rails, and to raiic a kind of parapet, muikct-proof oa both E c 4 dc-cUii 384 Capt. COOK*s Voyage. decks ; and likewife to (Irengthen the cabbms as much as poflible, in cafe of adtion. And as it was agreed that both (hips could carry more guns if any were to be purchafed, the Commo- dore was for taking the (hips to Canton, till perfuaded from it by fome gentlemen belonging to the Englilh fadtory, who undertook to negociate the buHnefs without giving umbrage to the Chinefe, who certainly would, theyfaid» be offended at the appearance of (hips of war in their river, and would oppofe their progrefs 5 reminding him at the fame time of the difagrce- able dlfpute in which Commodore Anfon was formerly involved on a fimilar occafion; and how hurtful it was to the Company's commerce for feveral years after. Upon thefe reprefenta- tions the Commodore relinqui(hed his defign, and Capt. King, with other ofHcers, were fent in a Company's (hip, alTifted by one or two gentlemen belonging to the factory, to Canton» to purchafe cannon and fuch other (tores as were not to be had at Mocao. On the 1 8th they fet fail, and at the fame time two Portuguefe ve(rels from the harbour of Macao, came and anchored clofe by us. They were bound to Bengal and Madrafs, anci very readily afTiftcd us with ropes for running rigging, fome canvas, and with 60 fathom of cable. They likewife exchar g**^ four fmall cannon and fome (hot with the Difcovcry xor a fpare anchor. The 25th being Chrlftmas Jay, was kept, as • it Capt. cook's Voyage. 385 is ufual with Englifh failorfi, in jollity and mirth i and what added to the pleafure of the day there v^as not a man ill in either (hip. On the 28th the Commodore received a let- ter from Capt. King, with an account of the difafters that had happened in the pafi'age, hav- ing loft two anchors and their boat, and were feveral times in danger of running aihore s that they did not arrive at Canton till the 24ihi but that he hoped foon to return with the can- non and (lores, for which he had bargained, though at a great price. Here they learnt that the ikins we had brought with us from the N. W. continent of America, were of nearly double the value at Canton, as at Kam.(hatfka. v. Early on the 29th there came into the har* bour of Macao a Spanifh galoon from Manilla, faid to have more than four millions of treafure on board ; and before we left our (lation there came in another worth double that fum. We were unacquainted with the Spani(h war, or thefe (hips, had we been properly commifllon* cd, might eafily have been captured. It is af- tonifliing, that none of our crulfers have ever lain in wait for thefe (hips, as their voyage » annual, and their courfe known. The fame evening a quarrel happened between a party of our failors, on (hore with leave, and fomeof the town's people, in which feveral were dangeroufly wounded on both fides ; and Mr, Purney, ift Jwieut* of the Rcfolution, had a 386 Ca?t. COOK'S VoyAgi, dagger run through his left arm in endeavour- ing to put an end to the fray. For this infult the Governor fent to demfand fatisfa6lion ; but upon examination the town's-people were found to be the aggrcffors. The Governor made a very handfome apology for his miftakey nnd the affair ended without any ferious confequen- ces. ^ ' ■:^-^- ' We were now vifited daily by ftrangers who canne out of curiofity to fee (hips that had been fo many years upon difcovery ; and every one was anxious to learn what he could concerning our courfe, but that we were not at liberty to tell. Among the reft came two French fpies, as we imagined ; but not being able to make out any thing criminal againft them, they were fuffered to depart. The fufpicion arofe from /bme of our men, who having particularly marked them, infifted that they had formerly failed wiih them in the French fervicc. No- thing remarkuble till ' • ' " ' - - -^^J *^'- ^ Jan. the Srh, 1780, when Capt. King, with the officers that accompanied him, arrived in the Company's veffe), with the cannon, am« munition, and (lores from Canton. Thefe being Hiipped, nothing remained to be done, but to take on board the live (lock which the Commodore and Officers had purchafed for their own ufe, and nine head of cattle to be killed nt Ha for the ufe of the fhip's company, the \nd hefe done, h the their illed the beef Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 387 beef and pprk which we brought from Eng* land being now fcarce eatable. Provifions of all kinds were here very dear, and very indlf-* fcrent; but what made us amends was the price they gave for pur beaver-ikins, on whicl^ |hey kt a great vftlu?. .. ,,.. ; ,^, ...., ., , r,... On the luh of January we unmoared, ^i^ the wind bfipg fair, came to fail with a plea- fant breeze •, but the wind dying away in the livening, we calt anchor, and in tbe night JoKn Cave, cjuart^r- matter, and Hobert; Spencer^ ran away with the great cutter. ^ id On the 12th we were che \»r 'i* r m. nj vi'v>*' ' i On the 27th at day- light, the Difcovery made the (ignal for feeing a fail. We infant- iy began to clear Ihip in cafe of an enemy, and hoifted Englifli colours } and on our near ap« proach the fail did the fame. She wis bound to the fouthward, and we purfued our coarfe. ^ On the ifl: of AuguH; juft at fun fct we faw a fail tt a great diftance to the wedward % but in the morning (he was quite out of Gght. We were then in lat. 43 deg. 56 ipin. N. t^t n.i : ju On the 7th we were in lac. 48 deg. long, xo deg. 10 min. W. a hea?y gale with r9inb > ' On the 9th the wind (hifted to the eaftward, when we (haped our courfe to the north of Ice* land. Blew hard all day. On the 21 (I being then in lat. 58 deg. 4 min. N. long. 9 deg. 6 min. faw a fail ftanding to the fouthward, when we made the Ditcovery's ^ :jSj; ; ; . ;. - , F t * .* • uu ^: fignai 378 Capt. COOK'S Voyaob: fignal CO chace ; but the gale continuing, could not come near enough to hale her. In the e- vening the man at the maft head called out land diftant about 5 leagues. Early on the 22d made the fignal ifor a pi- lot, and at eight o*Clock a pilot came oflf, and by eleven we were fafcly moored in the harbour of Strumnefs, in the north of Scotland. We were foon vifited by the gentlemen in the neigh- bourhood, '"-'s t; 'u'^b I'f'G J . On the 23d frefh beef and greens were ferved in plenty to both (hips companies ; and the fam(i day our paflengers went on fhore, and fet out for London. The Captains and Officers went likewife on fhore, and the men had liberty to divert themfelves by turns during our ftay;*^'^ \ i fiy the 29th we had got wood anld' water enough on board to ferve us to London ; and at noon the fignal wasi made to weigh ; but the wind coming about, and blowing fiefti from the S. E. obliged us not only to relinquifh Our defign for the prefent, but detained us till the 19th of September, a y*<-w _„ „,, . ./ On the 2oih of Septerriber Capt. King of the Difcovery, Mr. Bailey our adronomer, and Mr. Webber, left the (hips, and fet Out for London, and Mr. Borncy, ift Lieut, of the Refolution, took the command of the Difco- very in the abfcnce of Capt. King. "^-"'^ During our flay the (hips were vifited by gentlemen from all the iflands round i and by the Capt. COOK'S Voyage. 379 of ind for the Tco- by by Ithe the Apollo Frigate and her confort; they brought in a prize valued at ic,oool. and both Captains came to vifit Capr. Gore on board the Refolution, who now was taken very ill, and fo continued to the end of the voyage. The fame afternoon, the wind came round in our favour, when the fig- nal was made for unmooring, and both (hips got under way. At night we came to an an- chor with the tide. On the 23d Samuel Johnfon, ferjeanc of marines, died, and next morning his corpfe was committed to the deep. On the 25th the wind came again to the eall' ward, and continued againft us mod of our pafTage. On the 28th we paffed by Lcith, off whidi we again fpoke with his Majcfty's fhip Apollo. On the 29th John Davis quarter- mafter, died. Our detention at Strumnefs proved unfortunate for thefe two men, who died in tNeJr paiTage. Had the fbips arrived in a dirc(5l co irfe, their friends would at lead: have had the fatisfadion of adminiftering all in their power to their re- covery, which, to perfons who had been To long abfcnc, would have been no fmall confo- Jation. On the 30th we came to an anchor off Var- mouth, in company with his Mijeiiy's floups of war the Fly and Aldcrney. Our boars were immediately i'eni on (hore for proviliuns j and for u vr Cpr a fpare cable. for our fmall bower^ that wet ^d bfiog near worn outJ wWe lajr here till The td of Odober* when we weighed and failed. . Ob the 4tk we canne too zt the Nore, And On the 6th dropt our anchors at Deptford*; having been abfent juft four years, three months, and two days. ^■r,:cp:r: 7 ■■■(n m-^ f; . '•i ;,ii u4 ,1... .^:* -•'•• -^:"'^ J^'^ ■'.•?i^ii»'»rt^ u .^ U '•.n ■r-^ ' . DIRECTIONS fir placing tbi CUTS; r f Death of Capt. Cook, to face the Title* Chaet (B,) in the Imtrodvctioii. Omai's EifTRY, Page I36. ^f rbsbntation of the Hbivab> Page 15(5. ^tps approaching Yorke Island, Page 164. Imdiak SavaOb, Page 249^ ^ , ■ • ■ "• ' * Pave irisr V?"i 4 ,v ,H-^ *' •* «• ■ 1.V I A-iF! .*i. - t" :*^^ *■■* *"f- > 'f