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'Tlkm^^/hd f.y a& ^n^efim. /ting-'* Wk,t i^M, fi.^^ ■' Jtl "" ~ _ ^^- ^/' JL* M Ji- — ^ !'■•'■'> n A n II <) W V /•// / / ''' \ f',. \ I., r'/mio //flfe -V* W-i'M" V. 1 •'"' . , X ■^. Knt(ti{^ (: (T c^ ^) His Most Excellent Mai ijest^ WiLiMM If* 4- /^v / ^, -<> £fa6f//ti /w«A«i. < V .■^-- o A OF THK r^- •fi/i' vJ ) ^^^/ ^r/y^',/, /f^^■^y , y ' ■ 'V^^.V '/^^'/,^V^^ '/r...^^,,^,,,^,..'^i.^,,/f^ /^^^,^ "^r:--^ -<2:-., '' •L^v^- ^■J^ <^fP ^^^.r^r-^r-,-. ,'"* M£ L V IM. t. HI ■NINS.1 I. \ , i_ liuig-itiki/t, Jff.jrt /roilf tii-n-nmtti NARRATIVE OF A J^COND VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF NORTH WEST PASSAGE, KnO OF A \ 1 *>' \ 1 ' RESIDENCE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. DURING THE YEARS 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833. BY SIU JOHN ROSS, C.B., K.S.A., K.C.S., etc. etc. CAPTAIN IN THE ROYAL NAVY. INCLUDING THE REPORTS OF COMMANDER, mow CAPT.4IN, JAMES CLARK ROSS, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S., ktc. .iRO THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHERN MAGNETIC POLE. AD. WAHLEN, PRINTER TO THE COURT ORASDE ni'E DE L'ECUYER , iN^ 49. 1835. 1^G307 Ross. :j M '.1 i TO HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY WILLIAM IV. KLNG OF GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, etc. THIS NARRATIVK OF THE Bmomvm mati^ in tl)t Tivctxc lUgton^, IN THE YEARS 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832 a>d 1833. i IS DEDICATED WITH HIS MAJEST\ S GRACIOUS PEHMISSIO>, BY HIS MAJESTY S LOYAL AND DEVOTED SUBJECT, JOIIX ROSS, CAPTAIJI IN THE ROYAL >AVY . "■ s i I I . I ' i \i'- INTRODUCTION. x -:• B That the public should expect some introduction to the journal of a voyage which has attracted so much notice, is natural ; but having placed at the commencement of the narrative, all those matters which relate to the original project, to the financial arrangements under which the expedi- tion was undertaken, to the fitting out of the ship, and the selection of the officers and crew, I have anticipated, if I may so say, in the work itself, much of that which is generally referred to an introduction, in books of this nature. That in giving an account of the last voyage which has been undertaken for the discovery of a north-west passage, and of the last which will pro- bably be attempted for some years to come, I ought to have sketched, at least, the history of the endeavours made to find such a passage to the westward round the northern shores of America, has been the opinion of many of my friends, and of him in pai icular on whom I have most relied. But so much has been published on thi;i subject, and by so many writers, long before my first voyage, and still more during the years which have intervened between that and the present one, that I cannot but believe that all who interest themselves in this question, must be as fully informed re- specting it as they could desire ; while perhaps every reader of this journal is sufficiently acquainted with the subject, either from the intermediate voyages, the public journals and reviews, or that work of Barrow which has long been in circulation, to render such a sketch superfluous ; as it could also be nothing more than an abridged compilation, prolonging a work which has already extended to a much greater length than I at first foresaw. I have thought it best, therefore, to refer to Purchas, Harris, Churchill, Harrington, to works in many hands, and always easy of access, but above all to Barrow's Chronological History, published in 1818, for such It INTRODUCTION. fuller information as I might have extracted from those writers, had I thought it expedient. Tet not willing to leave entirely in the dark on this subject, those to whom such reading may be neither familiar nor accessible, I will here give a condensed list sufficient for such a general purpose, from the writers above named. It will thus be the easier for those who are desirous of extending their knowledge of this question, to refer to any author or any voyage which they may fancy ; though I imagine that Bar- row's sketch will be sufficient to satisfy most readers. It was in the ninth century that this problem seems to have been first pro- posed : and the first northern expedition by sea, of which we know, was that of Othervie , who sailed from Drontheim to the White Sea. Iceland was also discovered about the same period, and subsequently, Greenland, by means of a voyage from that island in the year 970. 1496 John Cabot sailed, and made an unsuccessful voyage in the same quarter; and in 1498 Sebastian Cabot went to the west coast of Greenland, and reached the latitude of 56", but without effecting the particular object in view. 1500-1502 Gaspar and Michael Cotreal made two voyages to Greenland, and affirm that they reached the sixtieth degree of latitude. They dis- covered the straits of Gaspar and several islands, together with the strait which was called Anian, by them. 1508-1535 Jacque and AubertCartier made several voyages for the purpose of exploring a new passage to the countries from which Spain derived her treasure, and they discovered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 1524 Estevan Gomez was employed by Spain for the same purpose, but was unsuccessful ; having only reached Labrador. 1542 Mendoza Coronada tried to find the supposed strait of Anian, but saw nothing to satisfy him respecting its existence. 1527 Robert Thorne, of Bristol, is said, in Hakluyt's Collection, to have sailed for the discovery of the North Pole ; but there is no account of his voyage. 1553 Sir Hugh Willoughby sailed from England, and is said to have disco- vered Nova Zembla ; but, on his return, he was frozen to death in Lap- land, with all his crew. 1555-1557 Steven Burough and Richard Chancelor made two voyages, in which they reached the Island of Weigatz, and Nova Zembla, but without effecting a north-east passage, which was the object these navigators had in view. 1576 Martin Frobisher made his first voyage, discovering the strait which bears his name, which was at one time supposed to have divided or cut off a portion of Old Greenland : but this expectation was afterwards proved to be fallacious, while it is now concluded that this imaginary I :vj ffi IINTRODUCTlOn. til was is, m bul lese 3t- ■I 1 passage is probably nothing more than one of the openings on the west coast of Davis's strait. 1577 The same navigator made a second voyage, and named Mount War- wick, to the southward of what has since been called Frobisher strait; but it does not appear that he made any advance towards the discovery of a passage. 1578 In this year he made a third voyage, which was unsuccessful. After this, two brothers of the same name sailed to discover a )iorth-west passage, but they never returned, nor is there any conjecture respect- ing their fate. 1579 Edward Fenton sailed to discover a north-west passage, by the way of the Pacific ; but he returned, without having even proceeded towards the object which he had in view, in consequence of his fear of the Spaniards, by whom he expected to be taken or intercepted. 1580 Mercator, Pet, and Jackman tried, without success, to penetrate through Weigatz strait, and returned with much difficulty. 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert, intendmg to discover the north-west passage, sailed to Newfoundland. 1585 John Davis made his first voyage, and discovered the strait which bears his name. On the eastern side of this wide sea, so improperly termed a strait, he discovered and named what has retained his appel- lative of Cape Desolation, and, on the western shore. Mount Raleigh, Cape Walsingham, Exeter Sound, and some other places still bear the names which he gave them. 1586 In his second voyage, this enterprizing and persevering seaman exa- mined the coast on the west side of the strait between Cumberland island and the latitude of 66^" north. 1587 Not discouraged, however, by his want of success, this navigator made a third voyage, and affirms that he reached the 73d degree of latitude. In this, he examined the coast which he had seen before, givin^; names to some other places, but made no advance towards the solution of the problem which he had in view. The discoveries, however, which he made in the course of his t'.iree voyages proved of great commercial importance : since, to him more than any preceding or subsequent navigator, has the whale fishery been indebted. Let not his name be slightly passed over. In talent he has not had many rivals: and it is ignorance, probably, rather than ingratitude, which fails to thank him for the debts owed him by British commerce. 1588 The voyage ofMaldonado has been so strictly canvassed, and so ut- terly discredited in consequence, that if I name him in this chronologi- cal list, it is but for the sake of those who may have heard of his voyage but not of the criticisms which it has justly received. He did not make IV INTRODUCTION. the north-west passage to which he pretends ; beyond this I need not say what it was that he asserted himself to Iiave done. 1592 Juan de Fuca was sent to discover the supposed strait oF Anian. By his own account he followed the coast until he discovered an opening, up which he sailed in various directions during twenty days, after which he entered into the Noith Sea ; when finding it to be so wide for 30 or 40 leagues within the strait as to make him suppose that it really would afford that passage of which he was in search, he concei- ved that he had discharged his duty, and therefore returned. 1594-1596 William Barentz, in company with three others, made three voyages ; in the last of which he and half his crew perished : but these voyages were all directed to the noiih-east passage, and he advanced no farther than Weigatz strait, and the north-west end of Nova Zembla. 1602 George Weymouth sailed from England, but he reached no latitude higher than 64*', and therefore made no discoveries. 1605 James Hall sailed to Greenland with two ships, and coasted the land up to 63", but made no discovery. 1606-1607 In these years he made two more voyages to the same coast, but he only reached 66°, and returned without success. 1606 John Knight sailed to discover that same north-west passage which seems to have occupied the dreams of half the navigating and commer- cial portion of mankind, at this time, and during so many previous and subsequent years : but he only reached the coast of Labrador, and returned, abandoning the enterprize. 1607 Henry Hudson's first voyage was to the east coast of Greenland, and he returned by the way of Spitzbergen and Cherry island. 1608-1610 In these years, this commander, whose name has had the good fortune of being perpetuated in no common manner, by the results which gave rise to the incorporation of so opulent a mercantile com- pany as that which bears his name , and by the enormous territory which has fallen under their sway, made two other voyages. He 1 then discovered the bay which bears his name, but made no other discovery. 1611 In his fourth voyage his men mutinied, and he lost his life, after he had penetrated to 73" north. 1609-1611 James Poole made two voyages, and reached the 73d degree of latitude in Davis's straits, which was the nearest approach to the Pole that had been made down te that period. 1611 Sir Thomas Button made a voyage for the discovery of a north-west passage, but it was without the expected success ; his voyage was never published. I M i INTRODUCTION. lis I need not F Anian. By I an opening, y days, after be so wide ippose that it h,heconcei- d. made three d : but these he advanced nd of Nova 1 no latitude ited the land same coast, ssage which ind commer- revious and brador, and inland , and |id the good the results intile cora- ls territory 'ages. He no other ;, after he [degree of lo the Pole lorlh-west [yage was 1C12 James Hall sailed on a fourth voyage for the discovery of a north- west i)assage.He reached Ramelsford, in Greenland, in G7», and was thee killed by a savage. The new master decided on returning, williout making any farther effort. 161 1 Captain Gibbons sailed to discover a passage, but having been en- tangled in the ice, he look shelter in a creek about the latitude of 57", where he remained five months ; after which, contriving to escape, yet not without considerable damage , he returned to England. 1615 In this voyage Robert Bylot was master, and Wm. Baffin acted as the mate and pilot. Their success was not great, since they only reached as far as 65" north, examining the coast of Davis's strait, and (racing the coast thence to Resolution island, where they abandoned their pursuits, returning (o England in September. 1616 Bylot and Baffin again sailed, and circumnavigated the bay which now bears the name of the latter, until they came to a sound which was named Sir James Lancaster's sound, in lat. 74" 20'. The narra- tion of this voyage is very imperfect, w bile there is a reference to a chart which is not given by Purchas, and as far as I now know, is not to be found at present. There are charts, however, which probably give these discoveries in the exact manner in which they were laid down by Baffin : but as I have had occasion to remark at some length at the end of this Introduction, it is exceedingly incorrect in the longitudes, though sufficiently true in the latitudes, while the consequences of the former error are of such importance as to have led me into a detailed criticism on the question of this geography. 1614-1616 Fotherby made a voyage for the discovery of a north-west passage, but without success. 1619 Jans Munk entered Hudson's bay, in this year, and visited Thorfield inlet, returning without success. 1630-1631 Luke Fox ( commonly called north-west Fox ) made an attempt to penetrate by Hudson'$bay, but he added nothing to former disco- verers, and returned unsuccessful. 1631 James sailed from Bristol, ..nd asserted that he discovered that now well-known island to which he gave his name. Since, my own voyage, in 1818, there have been doubts respecting this " James's island ;" and the subject is so remarkable, not less than complicated, that I must refer it to the end of this Introduction, where I have attempted to elucidate this somewhat troublesome piece of geography, and, as I trust, with some success. 1633 Seven Russian sailors, who appear to have been shipwrecked at Spitzbergen, remained there one year. 1636 The Russians discovered the Lena and other rivers in the north of tl INTRODUCTION. ;.ii I " Europe and Asia, the account of which will 1>« found in Churchiirs collection of voyages. 1640 Bernarda, a Spaniard, affirms that by a coasting voyage he sailed from the Pacific through a strait, and reached an isthmus which divides the west from the east sea at Baffin's bay, where he could see the sea on each side from the high land, which he ascended. 1646 Forty-two persons were wrecked at Spitzbergen, and remained there a year. 1719-1722 There are voyages recorded to have been performed between these years, by Knight, Barlow, Yaughan, and Scroggs; but very little is known of these navigators, except that they sailed to discover a north-west passage. As no account of them was ever received, it must be presumed that they were lost. 1719 John Munk sailed on a voyage of discovery to the north, but his men all died excepting two, and he was unsuccessful, as far as any record of him has arrived to our days. 1722 Behring's strait was discovered by the navigator of that name : he was afterwards wrecked on Behring's island, which he had discovered, and there he died. 1741 Christopher Middleton sailed to Hudson's bay in the Furnace, for the discovery of a north-west passage ; his failure led to a controversy between him and Dobbs, and also with the Admiralty, on which I need not here enter. 1743 Six Russian sailors were left at Spitzbergen, and remained there six years. 1740-1746 The Russian government employed several officers, and traced, by land, nearly the whole coast of Europe and Asia, between Nova Zembla and Behring's strait. 1746 William Moor and Francis Smith made an unsuccessful attempt in this wearisome pursuit by the way of Repulse bay ; this being one of the speculations, the execution of which has since been repeated in our own limes, and, as all know, without success. 1769-1772 Hearne discovered Hearne river, by means of a journey by land, which has been so often quoted as to be familiar to every one. 1773 Phipps ( afterwards Lord Mulgrave ) made an unsuccessful attempt to reach the Pole ; this voyage is equally familiar, and is often quoted, the more so, perhaps, on account of its style , and of the honours con- ferred on his name. 1776 The justly celebrated Captain Cook ( accompanied by Captain James Clerke ), who had already performed two voyages round the world, attempted to discover the north-west passage, by Behring's strait, which he entered in August, 1779, and penetrated to a point which X'r IMRODrCTION. Vll I in Churchiirs ►yage he sailed 8thmu8 which re he could see ded. 'emained there rmed between but very little to discover a ;r received, it 1, but his men as any record lame : he was scovered, and mace, for the J controversy which I need ned there six and traced, Iween Nova fempt in this one of the !ated in our ley by land, me. ml attempt [en quoted, [nours con- Lain James [he world, Ig's strait, ]int which 1 I I he named /fj Cape, in latitude 70" 29' N, and in longitude 198^20' W. where lie found Ihe ice impenetrable, being a solid mass ten feet tliick and extending across to the coast of Asia, aground in Iwenty-scven fathoms. He returned to the Sandwich islands, and there, as is well known, he lost his life in a contest with the natives. 1780 Captains Gierke and Kinjf made anothor unsuccessful attempt in the same quarter; but the farthest point to which they proceeded was lat. 70" 33' N. in lOI" west longitude. 1770 Lieutenant I'ickersgill was sent out in the Lion brig to meet Captain Cook, by Baffin's bay : be reached (he latitude of 08" 10', and bore up for Labrador, returning unsuccessful. 1777 Lieutenant Young, in the same ship, was sent for the same purpose: lie reached 72" 45' ( Woman's islands ), and returned without making any farther progress. 1780-1787 The Danish Admiral Lowenorn, sailed to " re-discover" ( as the phrase is ), East Greenland, but his vessels being damaged by the ice, he returned to Denmark unsuccessful. 1789 Alexander Mackenzie, afterwards knighted, discovered the Mackenzie river by a land journey, and traced it to the Frozen Sea. His tediously- written journey has been read by every one conversant with voyages and travels. 1790 Mr. Duncan examined Chesterlield inlet : his men mutinied , and he returned, in consequence, without success. 1813-1818 Lieutenant Kotzebue, in a vessel named the Rurik, fitted out for discovery at the expense of the Russian Cotmt Romanzoff, proceeded round Cape Horn, and attempted the discovery of the north-west pas- sage, by the way of Behring's strait. This he passed, and entered on the sea which washes the northern shore of the American continent; discovering also the sound which bears his name, and which had been passed unobserved by Captain Cook. He returned unsuccessful, as far as even the slightest attempt at a passage is concerned, since he did not succeed in reaching Icy Cape. 1818 In this year I circumnavigated Baffin's bay, and by this means restored to our charts, whence they had been expunged, the valuable discoveries of that great navigator, whose name it bears : correcting them only where the imperfection, of his means, and other circumstances, had left errors, of small importance compared to what he had effected. I need not name here, what else in its consequences to commerce, was the result of this my first voyage. 1818 Buchan made a fruitless attempt to reach the Pole; having failed, from circumstances beyond his control, he returned in consequence of the damage sustained by his ship. 9. MM INTRODUCTION. 1 M j 1819-1820 Parry in his first voyage, between iatilude 74" N, and 113" W, discovered Melville island, INortli Georgian, now called Parry's islands, and Prince Re{;ent\s inlet, and was the first to winter in these reffions. 1820-1821 Franklin, in his first journey from Hudson's hay, by land, for this purpose, traced the coast of America between Hearne river and Point Turnafjain. 1821-1822 Parry, in his second voyajje, discovered the land which he has termed Melville peninsula, tojfetherwith the strait which he has named after his ships, the Fury and Hecla. 1822-1823 Franklin, in his second journey, traced the coast of America between Mackenzie river and Cape Back; while Dr. Richardson, sepa- ratiuff from him for this purpose, surveyed the coast between Hearn and Mackenzie rivers. 1822-1823 Parry, in his third voya{;e, jjcnetrated down Prince Regent's inlet as far as latitude 72' 30 in longitude 91" W. In this voyage the Fury was lost, and he, in consequence, returned unsuccessful. ! 825-1820 Beechy, in a voyage which occupied the period denoted in these dates, passed through Behring's strait, and attempted to |)enetrate to the eastward ; he reached the 71" 23^' latitude and the 136" 21^' west longitude, leaving about 130 miles unexplored between his own and Franklin's discoveries. 1827 Parry, in this year, made an unsuccessful attempt to reach the North Pole ; it having been imagined that a free passage to the equator might possibly be made in that direction. The results of all these voyages show that the discovery and survey of the land between Greenland and Asia had gradually advanced : so that when my voyage was undertaken in 1829, there were only 150 miles on the west side, near Behiing's strait, and 300 miles on the east side, between Cape Garry and Cape Turnagain, unexplored. Davis may be said to have made the first important advance towards a passage, and Baffin the second. The latter was found to be correct in his latitudes, but his longitudes were proved to be the reverse. The last of these statements on his part seems to have led to the unjust supposition that he was equally incorrect in every thing; whence it happened, under some criticisms which I have now no intention to examine, that all w hich he bad done was asserted to be incor- rect and false. Hence w as James's island expunged from our charts, as I have remarked in a former note on his voyage ; but far more uncharitably as w^ell as improperly, the bay which had so long and so justly borne his name, was equally obliterated : as if this great navigator had seen nothing and done nothing. It is not thus that men w ill be tempted to sacrifice their time, their comforts, then* fortunes, and their lives, in the service of man- kind : but if fame must hereafter be allotted or withheld by any one who may I INTRODUCTION. i\ N, and 113' W, Parry's islands, 1 tliese regions. t)y land, for this river and Point 1 which he has h he has named ast of America hardson, sepa- •etween Hearn rince Regent's his voyage the essful. moled in these penetrate to l3G"21^'\vest 1 his own and Jch the North equator might survey of the that when on the west tween Cape have made cond. The itudes were part seems Bct in every ve now no be incor- harts, as I (Charitably borne his n nothing ilice their e of man- who may assume the office of a judge, then let liie men of ability and enterpri/e wilh- diaw, unless Ihey are of that belter spirit which finds its reward in an approving conscience . If (he name of Baffin was restored to its exalted place, as I trust it was by my voyage in 1818, 1 may now proceed to remark, that the results of my late expedition consist in the Discovery of kinj- William's land ; the islhnius and peninsula of Doothia Felix ; the gulf of IJot)lhia : the western sea of King William, and the true position of a northern magnetic pole; and in reijard to the queslionof a north-west passage, it is fully established that there is none through Prince Regent's inlet, or to the southward of the lati- tude of 74" north. IJesides this, many important and interesting fads regarding Magnetism and other branches of science and natural knowledge in the conclusion of the voyage. The banks of the Isabella and Alexander were restored to tlieir former position in the chart, and the line of coast fully verified ; and several harbours surveyed and discovered. There remains, therefore, still the 150 miles to the westward, and to the eastward the space between Cape Turnagain and the coast seen by Sir Edward Parry, which may be estimated at 400 miles. It is not generally known that the question of "' a north-west passage. " which had been lying dormant since the voyage of Captain Phipps, was, in 1817, revived by Mr. William Scoresby, a highly gifted and talented na- vigator, who then commanded a ship on the Greenland fishery, but now a respectable and useful member of the Church of England, at Exeter. This gentleman, in a well penned letter to Sir Josepli Banks, rejjresented that so great a change had taken place in the seasons and the position of the ice in the Arctic Regions ; that the time had probably arrived when the long- agitated problem might be solved. His object was, no doubt, employment on this arduous service, thai as lie had been the proposer he might share in the glory of the enterprize. Why his services were rejected does not appear, but 1 have his own authority for saying that he would have accepted " any situation in the expedition which a gentleman could hold." He cannot, however, be deprived of the merit of being the promoter of all the attempts which have been made since ihat time. Sir Joseph Danks's high recommendation of his proposal to the Go- vernment was attended to, and a circular was written to discover what ofiicer of the navy had served most among ice. In the mean time ships were purchased, and were not only in a great state of forwardness before 1 was selected to command them, but all the junior officers were appointed. The purser and my nephew, then only seventeen years of age, being I he only individuals of my own selection. 1 believe there is no instance on record where an officer was appoiiUed lo command such an entreprize without his having been consulted as lo the .1 % INTRODUCKON . i i\\ i|tialities of the ships h« was to conduct; hut with mo it was not the case, and when I arrived in Loudon I was concerned to discover (hat the ships ( by tiiat time half finished ), were totally unfit for such a service ; but my remonstrances were too lat wliolo lime Ihc chai'(',<- of Ihe transit, and lo him heioni; all Ihe ohservalioiis madi* with it, and with a sixty-six inch loU'scopoof S-johject ijlass, hflonjfinj; to me ; hut Ihest! ohsei'vatioiiH must, with the ^alul'al History, also hy hhn, forma part of an Appendix, w liich w ill he puhlished separate from the iNarralive, in w hieh are only the abslracls, which would concern the general reader. TIk- Meteorolo{i;ical Table, w hich is {{iveii in abstract, will he in full in Ihe Ap- pendix, as well as the Diurnal Variation, and a new theory of the Aurora Horealis : indeed, the len);th of the Narrative has so much exceeded w hat I expected, that I have nut been able lo give any of the scientific observa- tions al full lenjjth ; as I have preferred jifivinff Commander Ross's journeys , in w hich will be found the most remote and extended part of our discovery ; and also that of Ihe present position of the !VJa{;netic Pole. The methods w hich necessity pointed out for the preservation of the health and disci- pline of the crew w ill be found in full ; and al the end will be fouml an Addenda, comprehending the conclusion of our proceedinijs after our hap- py return. In short, our whole voyage, from its commencement until its conclusion, will be found a w onderful chain of providential circumstances, affonlini; ;in evident proof that those who ^ j[o down into the sea in ships," etc.. are, of all others, the most dependent on the Divine aid, and the most short-sighted of mortals ; while it must be no less manifest, that if men irusting in " llim who cannot err", w ill only make use of the means inerci- tully put within their power, there are no dilWciilties which cannot be overcome, and no case too desperate ! It is not necessary that I should, in this Introduction, enter into a formal discussion respectin{> the probability that yet remains of finding a " Norlh- wesl Passage," to Ihe northward of the 74th degree of latitude. Such remarks as I have had occasion to make on Ibis subject, will be found in the course of the following narrative, w herever occasion for them chanced to arise : while, even had I aught more to say on this great question than I have done, any such dissertation has been long superseded by (hat of Sir Kdward Parry, to which I gladly refer. Let no one suppose that I do not estimate the merits of that officer, both as a writer and a navigator, as highly as the public has agreed to do. We were once partners in the same pursuit, and have together undergone the same dangers and the same anxieties; we have since, if separately, carried on the same warfare with ocean and ice, v. ith storms and toils ; each still i)ursuing one object and endeavouring after one fame. If we have thus been as rivals, it has been a rivalry in w hich neither jealousy nor dislike could ever have intermingled : as well might it be supposed thai T,a Peronse i l.MKOlilLllO.I. \u\ •w cavi{jators, ought, in the slightest manner, to interfere with the claims or dimhiish the merits of those who have recently followed in the same career. No one, of those at least who are acquainted with the theory of naviga- ( ion, or with the sciences on which it depends, can be ignorant of the difficul- J y which the ancient navigators found In determining their longitudes. I need scarcely say how little was then known even of practical magnetism, of such simple facts as the variation and the dip of the needle ; and still less need I here notice how uncertain were the means of determining " the longitude. " That Baffin should but have shared in this general difficulty, is no cause for surprise ; and thence it is that I have traced those errors of his which I am about to note, not to such observations as he might have made during a run of a few days across the head of the bay bearing his name, but lo the distance and length of lime which was passed over and occupied during his voyage thither from England; the latter amounting to some months, and (he former being only a few days. In consequence of this more than suspicion, since it was the unquestion- able source of all his subsequent errors, I have commenced by laying down the true longitude of the east coast of this bay, as determined by those jnodern methods which leave but the slightest error; thence assuming this as the basis, or " point of departure," for all the subsequentdetermina- tions which he has made, and which I have here undertaken to correct. Having tirst determined this, and thence assuming that the distance esti- mated by him in his short passage across the bay is correct, since I do not see how he co:!'d here have committed an error of any possible moment, it must follow that he had seen all that land to the east of Melville islands and Ihe north of Fury strait, which we have supposed to have been first disco- vered by our recent navigators. The consequence of this becomes very remarkable on an inspection of our present and new charts. The strait of the Hecla and Fury, as laid down by Parry, thus proves to be the Baffin's strait of this navigator ; while the land now laid down by us as lying to the eastward of Prince Regent's inlet, will turn out to be James's island, as named by James. Further, that land to the southward of this island, of which we have traced the eastern coast, but of w hich we have not examined the inlets, should he the " three islands" of Baffin and his Cumberland island : w hile it is 10 be hoped that future examination will verify his assertions. On the t IiSTRODUCTION. XXI lie world. IF, seem, to the ^erers, let me i not my own 3f the ancient the claims or same career, ry of navi{ja- jfthedifficul- itudes. I need nagnelisra, of ; and still less mining " the /, is no cause )f his which I nade during; a le, but to the upied durinjj ; months, and e unquestion- ,^ laying down lined by those ice assuming sntdetermina- i to correct, listance esti- ince I do not e moment, it |e islands and first disco- lury, nspection of as laid navigator ; d of Prince by James. have traced ets, should w hile it is 8. On the 1 ■■■X 1 i .1 same grounds, our Barrow's strait will he the Lancaster sound of Baffin, as our coast of North Somerset, thus named by Parry, will prove to be that which Baffin termed Prince William's land. The opposed shore, llierc- fore, which has been called North Devon, will equally be the west side of James's island. Let it now be supposed that these views are incorrect, and we will Ihcii see trie consequences which will follow; as these, if I mistake not, will confirm the criticisms \\ hich 1 am here making. Though Baffin's longi- tude is incorrect on the east side of his bay, which he has placed nearly ftiur degrees too far to the eastward, it has been found, on the west side. to be so coincident with the observations of modern navigators at thai place w hich I formerly considered the entrance of Lancaster sound, and have thus named in my chart of 1818, that the result would be to extermi- nate James's island altogether : which cannot be, without considering James's account to be false. Having thus passed such geographical criticism on this subject, as my voyages and the deductions I have since made from them seem amply to justify, 1 must now turn to the western portion of these northern shores, that I may compare the really puzzling and obscure account of Bernarda and Juan de Fuca with the recent examinations, or discoveries, as they have not unnaturally been termed, which my followers and coadjutors have made on this part of the northern coast of America : still, however, disclaiming all intention to deprive them of their well-merited and hard- earned honours. I think I have good reasons to suppose that these very early navigators effected their voyages by pure coasting, as w as the practice in the far more remote times of the ancients, and, for the most part, of our Scandina- vian ancestors, without any regard to observations, for which they did not much care, as they had little means of making those. Thus do I believe it possible that they passed through Behring's strait, and held on their course even as far as that part of this coast which I have termed the isllimiis of Boothia ; while I find, in their accounts, a sufficient congruity with those of our modern discoverers to justify this belief. This is especially remarkable in the fact w hicli I noted in a former part of this Introduction, namely, that Bernarda had sailed towards the east, to a certain longitude, and had there ascended a land, not far from Davis's strait or Baffin's bay, w hich I have concluded, on good grounds, as it seems to me, to have been the isthmus of Boothia. Supposing now that my views of the voyages of these two navi- gators are correct, it is plain that they had long ago effected, in some manner at least, what hassince been performed by Kotzebue,Beechy,Hearne, Mackenzie and Franklin; doing even more, since the lastpoint to the eastward which they reached was that isthmus w hich I have Just named. » li I ■;< ll x\u INTRODUCTION. This subject, however, is so obscure in itself, while the novelty of this criticism, added to that obscurity, is such as lo render all verbal explana- tions insufficient, that I have constructed a chart, here appended, for the purpose of rendering it more intelligible. It w ill require some attention, r\en to consult and understand that chart ; but the following explanation will, I hope, render it intelligible to every reader, and at the same time adequate lo the appreciation of this piece of geographical criticism. It will be seen that it also serves to illustrate those remarks on Baffin which I have just made ; while having nothing of the same nature lo discuss respecting Bernarda and De Fuca, I must entirely trust to this chart, and the following explanations of it. ^i| !l!^"' 'm ';* I^STRODUCTION. XMIl ! novelly of this irerbal cxi)Iana- pendetl, tor the lonie attention, ing explanation the same time I criticism. It n Baffin which ure to discuss this chart, and -^e Explanatmi of the Chart. This draught, which I have constructed from a comparison of our modern knowledge with tlie records of the old navigators in question, pre- sents at one view the space which extends from Britain to Behring's strait. The black and shaded outline shows the form of the land as it is now known by the researches of modern navigators. The dotted line denotes the coast which was erroneously laid dow n in longitude by Baffin ; and the difference between this line and the shaded coast on the east side of his bay, is the great error in his longitude of this shore which I have noticed in the preceding remarks. The red line, where it reaches along the eastern shore of Baffin's bay, represents his draught of that shore, but it is transferred farther westward according to the real longitude ; while the same lines to the westward exhibit his notions of the land on this side, according to the difference of longitude which he has himself given : thus denoting the breadth of his bay in longitude, together with the position of James's island, Baffin's three islands, and Cumberland island. Again, the two lower pairs of red lines to the westward, represent the tracts of De Fuca and De Fonte, as drawn in their charts. But as there is no opening on this part of the coast, they must have gone through Behring's strait, if they ever made such a passage as they relate : and the two upper lines are therefore meant to represent the track they must have made to reach the isthmus of Boothia, which I have reason to believe they did, from the conformity of their descriptions to what we saw. Bernarda must have equally passed through Behring's strait ; and thence the same lines may serve to represent his track also. 1 iil :SI, '' '"i I !■: •■■;? I ,., 'li :■•'■• ■ IP ,!; ''"'ill, si ' i (li I EXPLANATION OF SEA AND TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN ICY SEAS. Iceberg, an insulated mountain of ice. A field' a piece of ice so lar^e that its extent cannot be seen. A fioe, a piece of ice of considerable size, but the extent of which can be (listintjuished. /i patch, a number of pieces of ice overlapping and joininff each other. A stream, a number of pieces of ice joining; each other in a ridfje or in any particular direction. Loose ice, a number of pieces of ice near each other, but throu(;h which the ship can make way. Sailing ice, a number of pieces of ice at a distance sufficient to enable a ship to beat to w indward among it. Brash ice, ice in a broken state, and in such small pieces that ll>c ship can easily force through. Cake ice, ice formed in the early part of the season. Bay ice, newly-formed ice having the colour of the water. Hummocks of ice, lumps tlirown up by some pressure or force, on a field or floe. Heavy ice, that which has a great depth in proportion, and not in a slate of decay. A lane or vein, a narrow channel l>etween two floes or fields, or I)etween the ice and the shore. Beset, surrounded with ice so as to be obliged to remain immovable. Nipt, caught and jammed between two pieces of ice. A tongue, a piece of ice projecting from an iceberg or floe, which is under water. A calf, a piece of ice which breaks from the lower part of a field or l>erg, and rises with violence to the surface of the water. A barrier, ice stretching from the land ice to the sea ice, or across a channel so as to be impassable. 5 i % 'I iJ N f\' l. 1lH! "■fi 1!.i Sj xxvt EXPLANATION OF SEA AISI) TECUNICAL TERMS. mi) Land icCy ice nltnchcd to (ho shore, within wiiich IIktp is no < hnnncl. Sea ice, ioo within whicli there is a seijaration from llie land. /I lead, a ciiannel in a direct line throiii;h ilie sea. Pancake ice, ice formed after a fall of snow. A patch of icBf separate massesof ice joined, but of small extent. A pack, masses of ice joined by pressure, the extent of which caimol be •ecn. Sludge, ice having the appearance of snow just thrown in the water, which scarcely impedes the ship. // bight, a bay in a Hoe of ice. To hare, or boring, prcssinj; the ship throufjli small ice or youni; ice, under sail. /•/ croic's nest, a cylindrical house at the mast-bead, to protect the look- out man from cold. A blink, ice blink, peculiar white appearance of the sky in the direction of the ice ; or over distant ice. A blink, land blink, peculiar yellow appearance of the sky over the distant land. IVater sky, a dark appearance of the sky indicating clear water in that direction. Young ice, ice which has been formed durinf; the day or nijjht. Drift ice, pieces of ice less than floes of various shapes and sizes. Hunimocky ice, ice so uneven and rough as to be impassable or nearly so on foot. Fresh-water ice, ice formed on a lake or fresh water, and which is transparent. Fire hole, a hole in the ice, kept open in order to obtain water to ex- tinguish fire. Scupper, holes through the side or gunwale to let water out. Jigger mast, a small mast at the stern, with a sail resembling a lug sail. Krang, the body of a whale after the blubber is taken off. ^ I . ... I I ii' '■If 'II '"'■"Si ■:.■,'! IP RMS. ' i» no rhnnru^l. I.ind. 11 cxlenl. iviiioli cannot bo 1 in the water, 4 I •*}• SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ce or younR ice, protect the look- ' in the direction he sky over the ar water in that r niyht. nd sizes, fisable or nearly , and which is In water to ex- out, ^sembling a lug TO rt THE ARCTIC REGIONS. CHAPTER I. THE PROJECT OF THE EXPEDITION, AND ITS OUTFIT. After the return of that expedition which had attempted lu reach the Pole in 1827, 1 submitted, to the Lords Commissioner of the Admiralty, and, subsequently, to the Lord High Admiral, the plan of the voyage which I am now about to relate. I had long been convinced that the navigation of the arctic sea would prove more easy to a steam vessel than to any merely sailing ship, and for reasons which will, I believe, be fully appreciated by all to whom this navigation is familiar. When the ice is open, or the sea navi- gable, it is either calm, or the wind is adverse, since it is to northerly winds that this state of things is owing : so that the sailing vessel is stopped exactly where every thing else is in her favour, while the steam boat can make a valuable progress. The small draught of water in these vessels is another advantage ; their pow er can also drive them through bay ice where, except in a fresh and favourable breeze, a sailing ship would be entirely impeded : while to add to all, the facility with which they can be moved, without wind, or in spite of it, must render it comparatively easy for them to avoid a. I i i 7 !. I ihlilU ! I "I. » ^ I 2 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the masses of ice, and also to find places of shelter, where other vessels would fad. This proposal was not, however, accepted: but being satisfied that the possibility of the expected route to the westward, through Prince Regent's inlet, might thus be established, or otherwise, and the question, therefore, as far as related to a north-west pas- sage by this strait, be set at rest, I resolved not to abandon my design, without making some farther trials in another manner. I therefore laid the scheme which I had formed, before Mr. Sheriff Booth, an old and intimate friend, with whose liberality and spirit I was well acquainted : but as, at that time, the parlia- mentary reward of 20,000/. was still held out to the discoverer of a north-west passage, he declined embarking in what might be deemed, by others, a mere mercantile speculation. In 1828, 1 again submitted my plan to the Admiralty, with some improvements ; but the answer which I received was, that govern- ment did not intend to send out any more expeditions on this enquiry. I was then persuaded to api)ly to Mr. Thornton, of Old Swan, a well-known London merchant : pointing out to him, as a temp- tation, the value of the promised reward, and that of the Fury's stores, which I could not fail to reach. My answer was delayed for three months ; and, at the end of that time, it was a refusal. Soon after, it was with some surprise 1 heard that a bill had been brought into parliament and passed ; of which, while abolish- ing the board of Longitude, the effect also was to repeal that which had held out the above named reward for the discovery of a noiih- west passage. Whatever else might be my thoughts on this subject, it had the advantage of at least removing the scruples of Mr. Sheriff Booth : and I accordingly received from him, in the most liberal and dis- interested manner, entire power to provide on his account, all that I deemed necessary for the expedition. After examining various steam ships that were advertised for sale, I purchased, at Liverpool, the Victory, which had been once employed as a packet between that port and the Isle of Man, and replaced the old paddles by the superior ones of Mr. Robertson's construction : arriving with her in London, on the second of November. m TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3 where other being satisfied vard, through 3r otherwise, )rlh-west pas- I abandon my • manner. 1, before Mr. hose Hberality e, the parlia- ; discoverer of /hat might be iy, with some i, that govern- itions on this of Old Swan, im, as a temp- t of the Fury's r was delayed a refusal. at a bill had while abolish- eal that which y of a noiih- Ict, it had the Iheriff Booth : >eral and dis- [ount, all that mvertised for iad been once I of Man, and Robertson's le second of I 4 •I I Here she was put into the hands of Mr. Fearnall, to he raised on, and to be strengthened in the usual manner, which I need not describe. Her original tonnage was 85; but by raising five feet and a half on her, she became capable of carrying a hundred and fifty tons, including the engine with the necessary complement of provisions. The engine was made by Braithwaite and Erickson, being a patent contrivance; and the paddle wheels were so constructed that they could be hoisted out of the water in a minute. There was no flue; instead of which, the fires were kept in action by bellows, and it was, of course, a high pressure engine, the boilers of which were heated by pipes passing through them, in a manner now sufficiently famiUar. The stores of provision and fuel were for a thousand days: the former being of the best quality, and containing a proportion of preserved meats : while all the usual necessaries which experience had taught us to provide for such voyages as this, were Supplied in the same liberal manner. With instruments we were well furnished : having every thing that could be really wanted. Besides two chronometers of my own, there was one lent by Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, and three were intrusted to us by Mr. Murray. I had a transit instrument of three feet radius, a theodolite of nine inches, and a powerful telescope by Tulley; with five sextants, two altitude instruments, four barometers, twelve thermometers, two dipping needles, and several compasses : besides which H. M. Government lent me several valuable instruments and books which had been used in the former expeditions. Having at length brought every thing to a state of forwardness, I signified my intentions to the Admiralty; and soon after made them public. On this, applications to serve in the expedition under me, came from many quarters, even from officers of my own rank; some of whom also offered to bear a share in the expenses, so strong was the interest which had been excited. They were not less numerous from men who wished to serve as sailors: but my officers had already been chosen and the list of men was soon filled up. As my second in command, I had chosen my nephew, Com- mander Ross, who had been on every one of the northern voyages: .4 ■'*.tZ II*- 4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY while my former Purser in the Isabella, Mr. Thorn, volunteered as third ; both of these officers undertakings, like myself, to serve without pay. A Surgeon, Mr. Macdiarmid, was procured some time afterwards. Among the petty officers were three mates: and our crew con- sisted of a carpenter and his mate, two engineers, three stokers, a steward, a cook, and nine seamen ; the names of the ship's com- pany were as follow : Hi n'eif '• I . !?■ , M M^ hi|.i{i%" John Ross, Captain, R. N. .Tames Clark Ross, Commander, ditto. William Thom, Purser, ditto. George Macdiarmid, Surgeon. Thomas Blanky, first Mate. Thomas Abernethy, second ditto. George Taylor, third ditto. Chimham Thomas, Carpenter, Alexander Brunton, first Engineer. Allan Macinnes, second ditto. William Light, Steward. Henry Eyre, Cook. Richard Wall, Harpooner. James Curtis, ditto. John Park, Seaman. Anthony Buck, ditto. John Wood, ditto. David Wood, ditto. Robert Shreeve, Carpenter's Mate. James Marslin, Armourer. James Dixon, Stoker. George Baxter, ditto. WiUiam Hardy, ditto, afterwards, in consequence of the loss of his arm, replaced at Port Logan, by Barnard Laughy, ditto. Thus were the arrangements of our ship completed : but this did not constitute the whole of the plan. It being necessary to carry stores and provisions for several years, to which our own tonnage was unequal, it had been in- c-f *9 I 1 I, volunteered ^self, to serve rocured some )ur crew con- ree stokers, a le ship's confi- ne of the loss •n it i Ited : but this I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 6 tended to take a consort sloreship for this purpose: on the sup- position that while carrying to Prince Regent's inlet whatever was thought necessary, she might also fish by the way, and further, bring aw ay some of the stor< of the Fury ; so as to compensate, to the liberal filter-out of tliis expedition, for such additional expense, as might thus be incurred. A whaler, built of teak, and in every way adapted to such a service, was therefore purchased at Greenock; by name the John, manned with a crew of fifty-four men, and commanded by the master, Coombe, under whom she had formerly sailed in th<' whale fishery. Her appointed rendezvous was Loch Ryan, and she was under the charge of Mr. Thorn. The event of this arrangement, which proved a failure, will appear but too soon in the following journal. It being also thought expedient to have a secondary vessel of as large a tonnage as our own could conveniently manage, we ob- tained, by the kindness of the Admiralty, the decked vessel of six- teen tons burden which had accompanied a former expedition intended for the Pole ; giving her the name of Krusenstern : and we were provided with two boats which had been used by Captain Franklin. In March 1829, I addressed letters to the several learned societies, signifying my intentions, and requesting to know in what manner I could aid them in their several objects of pursuit ; receiving from each, such answers as they thought proper. My last application was to the different foreign ambassadors, with a request to be considered neutral in case of war ; on which pass- ports were readily granted : while the Treasury issued an order for the remission of duties on such articles embarked in the vessel, as were subject to impost. I may end by saying, that the ship was visited before our depar- ture, by the Lords of the Admiralty and several persons of rank and science ; and that I had the honour of receiving the best wishes of his present Majesty for the success of my enterprize. Is for several had been in- r SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER II. iW^' i"' LEAVE THE RIVER— DETENTIOX AT THE ISLE OF MAN — ACCIDEXT TO THE E>'GIXEER— LANDING AT PORT LOGAN— ARRIVAL IN LOCH RYAN— MEETING OF THE JOHN TENDER. ii I! Hi I'; The twenty-third of May (1829) having been at length fixed on for our departure, I attended at the Admiralty, and took my leave : the official engagements of Lord Melville and Sir George Cockburn not permitting them to pay a final visit to the ship, as had been in- tended. Arriving at Woolwich, I found my excellent friend Sir Byam Martin, Comptroller of the Navy, and Sir John Franklin, on board ; and we were afterwards honoured by the visit of the Duke of Orleans (his present Majesty of France), attended by the (then) Duke of Chartres and a numerous suite. If the inspection of the arrangements was a source of gratifica- tion to our visiters, my friends were as little satisfied as myself with what I had long anticipated, if not to so great an extent ; and which, while it was to be a cause of hourly torment and vexation to us for many weeks, was at length to lead to the abandonment of one of our chief hopes, in addition to all the waste of time and money, consequent on the grossly negligent conduct of our engine-makers. The ship had been brought by her steam power from the upper part of Galleon's reach, to the buoy opposite to the dock; but her progress was so slow as to promise nothing but disappointment ; while, even thus early, a part of her machinery had become dis- placed, so as to be an additional source of delay. Receiving here the materials of the boats which had been lent us by the Government, together with a spare foreyard which had been made for us, we were also joined by Mr. Thomas Abernethy, Gunner of the Blossom, and 3Ir. Chimham Thomas, Carpenter of the Eurydice, who had both volunteered ; the former on the pre- ceding day, and the latter but a few hours before. Abernethy had been leading man on two former expeditions, and Thomas was also 1 i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. -ACGIDEXT TO IV.VL I\ LOCH !ngth fixed on »ok my leave : >rge Cockburn i had been in- ent friend Sir Franklin, on t of the Duke by the (then) 3 of gratifica- js myself with t; and which, ion to us for ent of one of and money, gine-makers. m the upper )ck; but her ppointment ; become dis- )een lent us ch had been Abernethy, arpenter of on the pre- rnethy had as was also ■# I I I M accustomed to the northern seas; while both had been promoted for good conduct. If 1 had reason to consider these two men as forming a valuable acquisition, so have I especially cause to be grateful to the Admiralty for the prompt and handsome manner in which they were discharged on my application ; leave of absence having been given, and their names placed on the cheque at Wool- wich. At three o'clock, my deservedly esteemed friend Mr. Booth, with his nephew and two more gentlemen, came on board, with the intention of accompanying us to Margate, and we sailed at six, with our boat the Krusenslern in tow, after taking in our gunpowder at the lower buoy; Captain Beaufort, the Admiralty hydrographer. with Mr. and Mrs. Fearnall, having been the last to quit us. AVe arrived at Gravesend, under our steam, at eleven o'clock, anchoring to stay the tide and wait for a pilot ; and here the constructers of our execrable machinery, Messrs. Braithwaite and Erickson, left us. The river pilot being discharged, and the new one coming on board, we weighed (Mot/ 21) at 6 a. m.. with a light breeze fi-om the west, through which, although aided by the engine, we did not reach Margate under twelve hours, though by the inner channel; our rate of going varying from 5 1/2 to 4 1/2 miles per hour. Hailing a fishing boat at seven, our best friend, with his companions, took leave of us; little foreseeing at that time the length of our separa- tion, and the doubts hereafter to arise whether we should ever meet again on this side of eternity. W hatever my former fears or suspicions ip.ght have been, the defects of the machinery, now that we woic fairly embarked on our voyage, began to weigh very seriously on my mind; as I now also d -overed much more imperfection than our former opportu- nities had afforded the means of even conjecturing. The boilers leaked so much, that the additional forcing pump which had been placed in the engine room to be worked by hand, was kept con- stantly going ; while the fresh water necessary to compensate that loss could not be spared, even on the passage to Scotland. It was moreover impossible for the men to remain, for any length of time, at this work, in a place where the temperature was above Oli" : while, although they performed it without murmuring, they soon became exhausted, as I was fully convinced by the fainting of one of them, whom it therefore became necessary to bring on deck m: I : I. mw i»li •^Ml K \i \if: 'ill 1, 1.. ? ;: ^*" ,K :, ; .!'<> 'iltj 1 8 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY before he coiilil be recovered. How much more painfully I was yel to be convinced of this, will shortly be seen. Nevertheless, we had no resource but to persist; when, about 8 o'clock, while rounding the north Foreland, a breeze sprung up from the north-east, which induced us to heave our paddles out of the water and trust to our sails ; under which, passing the Downs in company with several vessels, we discharged out pilot and pro- ceeded to sea. But as the wind increased, and with it the swell, we soon had the mortification of finding, that in addition to the evils of our vexatious machinery, the ship was so leaky as to require the constant use of two pumps : though I hoped that this would prove but a temporary inconvenience, as such effects are very apt to follow the doubling of vessels, and had actually occurred in the Isabella on a former occasion, and moreover, to such a degree, in the Trent, that it became necessary to heave her down in Shet- land, during the expedition of 1818. The wind however continuing fair, it was some consolation to find that our vessel sailed, with the wind free, as well as any ship in company ; and in the morning {May 21)) we were ofFBeachyhead, with the wind EN E, and comparatively smooth water, which accom- panied us in our passage of the Isle of Wight the same evening. At midnight, being ofF the Bill of Portland, the wind and sea had increased so much, that we ran some risk of losing the Krusenslern, in consequence of her being driven against the quarter during our plunges in this detestable Bace, while we Wf're endeavouring to secure her by another rope. In the following evening, however, we again reached smooth water under the Bolthead, where she was effectually secured. The wind continuing in the same quarter, but being more mo- derate, we passed close to the Lizard, cleared the Bundlestone a little before daybreak (Ma?/ 27), and hauled up for the Longships, the wind being now directly against us. Th( se last days had been employed by the engineer in examining the machinery, and it was thus discovered that one of the guide wheels of the piston rod on the starboard side was so much worn, as to require a piece to be brazed to it, to restore its thickness, while the connecting keys of the main shaft were also found to be loose. It was plain that these defects were or ought to have been known to the manufacturer, who had nevertheless omitted to inform us of them, and his con- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS, ainfiilly I was when, about le sprung up •addles out of i{j the Downs ilot and pro- it the swell, Idition to the leaky as to >ped that this ;h effects are tally occurred luch a degree, lown in Shet- ;onsoIation to 1 as any ship 'Beachyhead, which accom- ame evening. and sea had Krusenstern, during our avouring to g, however, lere she was more mo- mdlestone a Longships, |ys had been and it was |ton rod on piece to be ing keys of P that these lufacturer. Id his con- i coaling his negligence in not supplyinj spare keys, or any mode of remedying the impending evil, of which he must or ought to have been fully aware, was in my opinion most unjustifiable. Holding on, we, on the 28lh, passed between the Longships and the Wolf rock, and standing to the westward, observed the latitude at noon in l>0" 24' N. On the 29lh, another observation at the same hour gave us iiO" 21' IN ; and as we were nearly in the same longi- tude, we found, that during the last twenty-four hours, we had lost three miles in beating against a steady foul wind. The engine being however supj)Osed capable of being again used, we put on the steam, and as the wind had shifted to the ENE, began to make some way to the north. In the night, however, it was repeatedly stopped, by the keys of the main shaft becoming loose; and on the oOlh, at i A. 31., the principal one on the starboard side broke, so as to render the whole machine useless. On examination, it was found to have been formed of a bad piece of steel ; and there being none on board sufficiently large to make a new one, we constructed one from iron, which, as might have been expected, gave way very shortly ; so that it was not till after two days, and having made three new keys, that we were enabled to replace the machinery in what we hoped to prove a workable condition. By our observations we now found that we had gained twenty miles against the wind, and on this day spoke a fishing boat from Kinsale, from which we procured a supply offish. The thirtieth, being Sunday, was made a day of rest by us, as it had been made such by nature herself, since it was an absolute calm; our latitude being J50" 43' and our longitude , west , by the chronometer , 7 degrees. {June 1) The three new iron keys being ready, and the weather moderate, the fires were lighted and the engine again set to work ; but each of them broke after about an hour's trial, so that we were obliged to give up our hopes from such expedients, with all farther attempts at repairing the evil in our present situation. Inde- pendently of this, the performance of the engine was most unsa- tisfactory. Even with a pressure of forty-five pounds on the inch, we could never obtain more than fifteen strokes in the minute; and as it thence followed, that the outer edge of the paddles had no greater velocity than five miles in the hour, that of the vessel could not possibly exceed three. The boilers also continued lo 3.. fi.i.;^ fv 10 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY !l! ■*>■ til 1:1,'' •It I;. -.. ft) i?' ;: ■■^- ■i- •I ' I ,'i" lllli'Ki*'"'' leak, Ihoiii^h we had put dun;; and potatoes in them, by Mr. Erickson's direction. The men were moreover so fatigued by the work required at the extra pump, for the supply of the boiler, that I contrived to get it wrought from the lower deck; though, even with this alteration, the Iai)Our continued too severe to be endured. This however did not include the whole of our nearly fruitless attempts to remedy the evil inflicted on us by the discreditable conduct of our engine manufacturers. Finding, further, that the condensing apparatus was defective, inasmuch as the air pump always drew a cpiantity of water, and the feeding pump was insufficient to supply the boiler, we disconnected the whole appa- ratus, except the latter, which we proceeded to supply by a cock ; and having led the steam from the eduction pipe, by tubes and hose, to the upper deck, we put the engine in motion, and thus, by means of a pressure of forty-seven pounds in the inch, obtained a velocity of sixteen strokes in the minute ; being one more than when the condensing apparatus was in action. It was thus shown that power had been wasted, partly in this part of the contrivance, and partly through the vacuum pump; but whatever our correction was, it could have availed us nothing at sea, from the great loss of water to which it gave rise. In addition to these unproductive corrections, we next tried the effect of disengaging the great bellows; yet though we saved considerable power in this manner, we found that it did not last, and that the small one was quite incapable of maintaining the requisite heat : while it was now also plain, that they were wearing so fast as to threaten to become utterly useless in no long time. Every thing in fact was imperfect; since even the cybnders were too small to perform the duties required of them : so that, if I had not been satisfied of it before, 1 was now convinced that we had little to expect from the assistance of an engine which, at the best, could, if acting alone, scarcely move our ship three miles in the hour, and was therefore utterly inadequate to aid us in taking in tow our consort the John, as had been contemplated in planning this expedition ; or could not at least have towed her faster than her own boats. In blaming the execution and workmanship of this engine, I must however do justice to the principle, which was judicious, and, under a careful execution, might have rendered this machinery of •12 4i: 'M 4 m. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 11 them, by Mr. utigued by the he boiler, that thoii{;h, even to be endured, learly fruitless ! discreditable rlher, that the the air pump ng pump was e whole appa- ply by a cock ; by tubes and ion, and thus, inch, obtained me more than ^as thus shown le contrivance, our correction e great loss of next tried the igh we saved t did not last, aintaining the were wearing no long time. yhnders were that, if I had d that we had at the best, miles in the s in taking in d in planning r faster than Ins engine, I idicious, and, machinery of 1 -M ■m .1. great service to us on many of the occasions which occurred in our voyage. The diminutions of weight, and the removal of incon- venience, caused by the omission of a funnel, constituted a manifest advantage; and a slill greater one was the reduced consumption of fuel involved in the plan of Ihis newly contrived engine. And while the plan of lifting the paddles out of the water, and thus out of the reach of eventual ice, was well suggested, so was the execution of this part of the machinery correct, even to super- fluity; since we were enabled to take away the counterpoises and guide rods, and thus to diminish both the weight and the trouble. The pieces of timber placed to keep out the sea, above and below the shaft, succeeded perfectly : but finding that the scuppers on the lower deck would not let out the water from that and from the pumps, without also letting in the sea, we were obliged to invent a remedy by carrying a pipe from the pump to the scupper, which proved effectual. The ship, as I had expected, had now become less leaky, and was easily kept clear by one pump ; but the engine, I need not now say, being perfectly useless, we were compelled to trust to our sails, under which we had the mortificalion to find, not only a steadily adverse breeze, but that we were beaten by every vessel that we saw, so ill did we sail upon a wind. Our j)assage thus promised to be as tedious as it was irksome ; but, on the second of June, we saw the Small's light, found ourselves off W ieklow on the same day, and on the third, it then blowing fresh, fetched the Calf of Mann, in time to get under its lee and shelter ourselves from the increasing gale. {June 4) On this morning we came to anchor in Douglas bay ; when still desirous to make another attempt with our engine, I here procured proper materials, so as to construct two new keys for the shaft; writing also to London and to Liverpool for a supply of other spare ones, in case we should at all succeed in carrying this machi- nery farther on our destination. We were here detained two days; yet losing nothing by the detention, since it blew a storm from the north-west the whole time, while we were thus also enabled to lay in a supply of beef, vegetables, and water. As we had had good opportunities of observing the efficacy of our rigging during our passage, we found that our present method of managing the after sails admitted of some improvement. I 12 SECOND VOYAGE OF DESCOVERY M': % H' ']i '> M filjiiiifc'" Hi I jl^ Ihcreforc purclinsetl some spars, loi^^ctlier with some canvas, to replace the s(|iiare sail, vvhith we had lost ihiriiif; our voyage; here also receivini; the visits of many friemls, and others, all more or less interesting themselves in onr snccess. Every thing being completed on the evening of the fifth, we waited for a change of weather, which accordmgly took place with a shift of wind on the following morning; enabling us to weigh onr anchor at six o'clock, with a breeze from the north-east. \Ve stood towards the (lalf of Mann ; but, the wind falling light, made little progress, though working the engine, as we had attempted to do before, without tlie condensing apparatus. Yet, even thus, succeeding in obtain- ing only fifteen strokes in the minute, and being unable to make some intended repairs while the engine was at work, we had once more to depend on our sails alone, and against a wind which was now adverse. {June 7) On Sunday we were off the harbour of Peel, when by taking advantage of the tides, and carrying a press of sail, we made considerable progress, and soon saw the 3Iull of Galloway to wind- ward. Early on Monday morning, the engine being once more ready, such as it was, we let down the lee paddle wheel, keeping the weather one out of water, with the expectation of advantages in which we were not disappointed. Instead of fifteen, we now found that we could easily make eighteen strokes in the minute, and that we could thus beat to windward as well as any of the vessels in company; even gaining on them, very shortly, as much as they had gained on us before. Thus were we flattered with the hopes of soon reaching Loch Kyan; but an accident, as miserable as it was unforeseen, soon occurred to destroy the pleasure resulting from this new and unex- pected success. We had just tacked close to the Mull of Galloway, after having made about thirty miles during the night, and were getting fast to windward, with the tide in our favour, when, at ten in the morning, our principal stoker, William Hardy, came up from the engine room on the deck, unassisted, and alone, and though without complaint or exclamation, presenting his left arm, shattered, and nearly severed, above the elbow. It appeared on enquiry, that his foot had slipped in consequence of the motion of the vessel, while examining a part of the machinery near the piston rod ; thus causing him to foil in such a manner as to entangle his *i I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 13 ne canvas, to voyafje; here I, all more or tliinff being r a change of ' wind on Ihe ;U six o'chjck, Is the Calf of jress, thon[|[h fore, wilhont njj in oblain- ahle to make we had once id which was 'eel, when by sail, we made way to wind- ff once more leel, keeping 3f advantages een, we now minnle, and the vessels luch as they aching Loch eseen, soon and unex- 3f Galloway, , and were hen, at ten came up alone, and lis left arm, jpeared on motion of I' the piston ntangle his ji arm between the guide wheels and the frame, so that it was crushed, during the back stroke, in llie horrible manner which il now exhibited. Th(! bone beiny splintered as well as fractured, and the muscles and skin so bruised and torn that the two parts of the limb scarcely held together, there could be no hesitation in determining that it demanded amputation, and as far as my oppor- tunities of surgical reading had extended, that no time ought to be lost in performing this operation. Luforlunately, our surgeon, 3Ir. M'Diarmid had not yet joined us, being on board the John, our intended consort; so that il becanie my duty to apply to this unfortunate case such knowledge as Ihe sight of amputations in my naval service, added to my limited reading on such subjects, could supply. It was well that the instruments for the surgeon were on board, together with the medicine chest; and a berth having been prepared for our unluckly i)alient, I have only to say that I did, as well as I could, what seemed necessary, as far as my want of experience enabled me to do it ; applying the tourniquet first, and then securing, with the tenaculum and ligatures, the only two arteries which I could Ihid, while 1 cut oH' the injured muscles and skin in such a way as I hoped suliicient to remove the dead and hazardous parts, and to leave materials for producing a decent stump. I nfortunately, the ami)ulation saw was not to be found, so that 1 was not only unable to remove as much of the bone as I ought, hv* was compelled to leave the broken extremity in a splintery siate, to the farther care of the surgeon whom I expected to tind on shore before a day was over. And that 1 may not return to this case, 1 may now add, that as we reached the land so as to put our patient under proper surgical care before any material inflammation had occurred, that which 1 could not finish was completed without difficulty; so as to leave, in the end, a stump, which though not such as to have done much credit to a surgeon, is not worse than hundreds occurr-ng under better auspices, and has not finally prevented this mutilated engineer from returning to his original employment in the establishment whence we procured him. If I need not say that I should have been much more at my case in cutting away half a dozen masts in a gale than in thus "■ doctor- ing" one arm, I could not but be gratified as well as interested by the effect which this occurrence, vexatious and painful as it w as to Ti^ 14 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ) 'I 1 '' H, 4 V 'lit* ,(!,. ,••■1' >''i* J»-il V ■ 'Hii'iiiiii, me, produced oiilhe iikmi. The arranijemcnlsof llio mcdirfd chest and iiKstruiiients, the lUMtness uF every tiling, iind (he abundance of the supply, with, I hope, the farther conviction that there was a good will to apply them all to their security and use, and that good will to he rendered ujore elfectu.il as soon as the proper me- dical officer should join us, seemed to give them a conHdence that nothing which could conduce to their comfort had heen neglected ; as, in this feeling, I found an ample eouMrmation of what I had long before read in the w orU of Monsieur Larrey, respecting the effect of his excellent medical arrangements on the troops of the farsighted soldier under whom his system was organized. {June 8) Anxious as we were for our progress, we were now even more impatient on account of our unfortunate engineer; and wc thus viewed with pleasure the progress which we were now making hy the new help of our lee paddle wheel. We thus calcu- lated that wc should make Port Logan, then about nine miles off, before the end of the tide; but at noon all our hopes were des- troyed by the breaking of the teeth which turned the fly wheel of the small bellows. On a sudden they gave way with a loud crash, so that this instrument became nseless, and although, as the steam was then high, we hoped that this failure would not have much effect, it was shortly reported that the boilers had burst : as if it had been predetermined that not a single atom of all this ma- chinery should be aught but a source of vexation, obstruction, and evil. This report did not indeed prove quite accurate ; but some of the joints had so far given way, that the water was pouring out of the furnace door ; and with such effect, that in ten minutes the fire was extinguished, and the engine stopped. During these few hours the tide had changed against us ; and as the wind was done, there remained no prospect of gaining ei- ther Port Logan or any other harbour on that day. Nevertheless, towards the end of the tide, we made a tack toward the Irish shore, in hopes that the wind would shift more to the westward. These however were not realized : and we had the farther morti- fication of seeing all the vessels which we had passed, repass us; so as to convince us of the necessity of improving our own sailing qualities, by sonic change in our rigging, if that should indeed prove competent to such an end. {June 9) On this morning we contrived to fetch within four TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 15 ! mcdicil chest the at there was a use, ami that he proper me- onHih'iiee that eeii iie|;leete(l ; of what I liad respecting the troops of the iii/ed. we were now engineer; and we were now ^e thus calcu- line miles off, |)es were (h's- e fly wheel of a loud crash, lougli, as the uld not have id burst : as f ail this ma- Iruction, and te ; but some pouring out 1 minutes the nst us ; and f gaining ei- Ncverlheless, d the Irish westward, rther morti- repass us ; own sailing ould indeed within four I """; miles of the harbour; and the lidebeingin our favour, reached Port Logan at 8 o'clock ; finding sullicient water at the end of the pier, though it w as now three jpiartcrs ebb. This, formerly called Port Nessock, is a safe and commodious pier harbour, constructed at the expense of (lolonel MDouall, of Lo^an, on the south sule of a spacious bay, situated nine miles north of the iMull ofOalloway. It is easily known by a remarkable building on the hill to the north of the bay, and by the watchhouse and Hagstalf on that to the south, forming the station of the coastguard at this place. There is good holding ground in the bay ; and ships may choose their depth of water, since it shoals Irom thirty to three fathoms. It is secure to the south-west, but is open to the north-west winds. It is a great advantage here, that ships can run for the pier, though at half tide ; since, even at low water, it has seven feet, as, in the former case, there are fourteen, which at spring tides is increased to eighteen. There is no danger in entering, as every thing is visible; and as the tide sets outwards during eight hours, on the north side, a vessel has no difficulty in beating out. This is deci- dedly the best harbour of refuge, even in its present state, on this part of the coast; deriving advantage also from the proximity of the lighthouse on the Mull of (lalloway. It has been computed that a breakwater might be erected within the bay, at an expense of 80,000/.,- and should this ever be effected, it will become one of the most safe and commodious harbours in Scotland. Before entering the pier, we were boarded by Mr. Harvey, the officer of the coastguard, with an offer of his services ; and it was here, on landing, that we procured a spring car for the conveyance of our patient to my house at Stranraer, where he was put under the care of our own surgeon, Mr. MDiarmid ; and that of Mr. Wilson and Dr. Ritchie, who completed the operation which I was obliged to leave imperfect, and attended him kindly to a cure. I must not however quit the history of this spirited fellow, seaman though he was not, without adding, that while he found his way up the two ladders of the engine room without help, and made no complaint at any time, the only regret he expressed was, that he should " now not be able to go on the expedition." I might well regret, myself, being obliged to leave behind such a man as this. Having followed Hardy to my house, that I might see him pro- perly disposed of, 1 sent for Mr. Thorn, to whom I had confided 10 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I '^' '■■■ "T. :Mi .■«r ■ iiM^'l (■■ 1 1 i it f.'M 1 "111 ■jffil^ llie management of the John ; when I had the vexation to learn Irom him, that her officers iind men were in a slate approaching to mutiny, having taken advant;ige of our delay in joining that ship. It was soon easy to see in the looks of the officers and men, that Mr. Thom's report of their unwillingness to go on this expedition was but too true ; the latter appearing disorderly and dirty, as they skulked and sneaked about the ship. Judging it therefore necessary to come to an immediate exi)lanation, I went on board the John, and ordered all hands to be called. I then expressed my regret at finding there was dissatisfaction among them ; but as I dared not suppose that it proceeded from fear, I trusted that a little explanation would rectify this misunderstanding. Having myself sailed from Greenock, I had desired that Greenock men should share with me the honours and advantages of this expedi- tion 5 and of the advantages there could be no doubt, under the knowledge which I possessed and the plans which I had adopted. It was true, that the season might appear to them somewhat ad- vanced; but independently of the advantages our steam power might give us, 1 knew so well where to find abundance of fish, that there could be no question of our success, and that we should not, in the end, prove a day too late. I therefore expressed my trust that they would return to their duties, and not proceed in a mode of conduct which would bring disgrace both on themselves and their native port. On this, a pause took place, when, after some interchange of significant looks and whisperings between the mates and the men, the boatswain stepped forward, and after calling on some others to join him, observed, that as the season was so far advanced, they were not willing to go without a fresh agreement ; a resolution in which he was joined by the majority of the crew. On inquiring into the nature of this new demand, I was answered that they would not go, unless I would ensure them, in writing, the same shares as if they had returned with a full ship. It would not have been easy to frame a much more unreasonable request, when such a promise would necessarily deprive them of all inducement to exert themselves in fishing. I could not hesitate therefore in an- swering to so absurd a proposal, that I would ensure finding them fish in abundance, but that to take them and fill the ship, must be their own business. I was answered however, that nothing loss f TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 17 ation to learn pproaching lo ling that ship, mil men, that his expedition and dirty, as ir it therefore ent on board expressed my em; but as I rusted that a ing. Having reenock men ' this expcdi- 't, under the had adopted, iomewhat ad- iteam power lance of tish, lat we should xpressed my proceed in a 1 themselves erchange of nd the men, me others to need, they csolution in >n inquiring d that they g, the same d not have when such ucement to ore in an- iding them ), must be thing less f ■'!( ■4 1 f S would satisfy them than an absolute promise of 200 tons of oil, with a farther guarantee, in writing, that they were not to be detained on the expedition, but returned home in the usual time. I now, therefore, began to suspect that the real motive of their present conduct was the fear of being detained beyond the sum- mery but I was soon convinced that their fears were even deeper than this, since it was in vain that I represented to them the egre- gious folly I should commit in taking them out with only six months provisions, had I intended to keep them out longer, or even did I foresee the possibility of such an event as their detention. The best policy therefore now seenK'd to be that of shortening the stay of the Victory at Port Logan as much as possible ; while I hoped that when we should join, and they were made to compre- hend the advantages arising from the presence of a steam ship to aid the John in towing, this feeling would subside, and they would return to their duties under our agreement. I returned therefore to Port Logan without loss of time ; and the remainder of this day, June 9, was employed in landing the small boiler, together with the apparatus intended for cutting the ice, which, it was now evident, exceeded the power of the engine to work. AVe thus got rid of six or seven tons of what was now mere lumber; replacing it by three tons of water. On the following day ( June 10 ) I was visited by my friend. Colonel Sl'Douall, ac- companied by others, relations and friends ; nor did he part with us without a substantial present to furnish our next Christmas dinner, in the shape of one of the best Galloway cattle from his own estate. At six in the evening we cast off from the pier ; and, with the assistance of the coastguard, were towed round the point of Logan, under a light air from the south-east. At eight it fell calm, and we were obliged to stop the tide off Port Kale, under our kedge ; and though weighing again the following morning at six, with a light breeze from the north-east, we were unable to round Corsvvall point, so that we were again compelled to stop the tide in the same manner. These delays allowed us to examine into the nature of the damage already mentioned as having been indicaled in our boilers; when we found that the failure consisted chiefly in that of the iron cement which had been used in securing some of the joints; while the engineer had neither been informed of this, nor provided ^ !i: J ' 18 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■msf :.,^ m !'•:« ■■A with the materials for replacing it in case of need. The small bellows, w ith the machinery belonging to it, was also in need of a thorough repair, as was the large one more partially; but I must be excused from dwelling on this endless and provoking subject at present, farther than to say, that every day convinced us still more that we must consider ourselves in future, as dependent on our sails, for such progress as it should be our good fortune to make. We now weighed anchor once more at half-past five in the after- noon, rounded the point of Corswall, and bora up for Loch Ryan ; but, as it fell calm, were obliged to come to anchor until the next morning ( June 12 ), when, favoured by the breeze and a flowing tide, we ran alongside the John, having taken Mr. Thom on board the evening before, on making the Loch. The Victory being now alongside of the John, and her crew ranged on the deck, I again went on board. When the hands were called, I explained at considerable length the advantages they would obtain, and that I did not entertain an intention of keeping them out to a second year. But seeing that all I said was without effect, I addressed my own crew, by remarking that such cowards as the men of the John were not worthy to accompany such gallant fellows as themselves, even to the edge of the ice. Yet as it was also necessary thai I should prove a positive act of disobedience, I desired Mr. Comb, the master, to order his crew to assist ours in removing the coke. This was refused at once by the men, who at the same time called on those of the Victory to join them in " standing up for seamen's rights, " as they expressed it. But the appeal, as 1 expected, was received by my own people with indig- nation; upon which I returned on board, and after praising them as they well merited, both for this and all their other good conduct, proposed that we should sail by ourselves, and leave the cowardly John to her own proceedings. This proposal was received with three cheers; entirely disconcerting the mutineers, who had believed that I could not do without their assistance, and that they might therefore make any terms they pleased. It was still necessary, however, that I should muster the John's crew, so as to ascertain the feelings of each individual; and this therefore was done by the master, at my instance. It commenced with the first mate, Muirhead, who declared that he would not TO THE ARCTIC REGIOJJS- 19 !d. The small Iso in need of a Ily; but I must yoking subject ivinced us still dependent on Dod fortune to ive in the after- )r Loch Ryan ; • until the next and a flowing hom on board and her crew he hands were vantages they on of keeping i was without such cowards y such gallant let cts it was isobedience, I issist ours in men, who at oin them in it. But the with indig- raising them )od conduct, he cowardly ceived with lad believed they might • the John's 1; and this commenced would not •i?> t ¥, abide by his agreement, nor go on the voyage, without a guarantee for V60 tons of oil and the immediate return of the ship : a speci- men of the rest, at which I was exceedingly surprised, as he was the son of the worthy commander of the Larkins whaler, from whom I had formerly received both kindness and services. The answers of the second mate, Robb, were the same ; and it was not difficult to see that the master was kept in awe by these two men. The boat- swain and the harpooners being next asked if they would assist in weighing the anchor, joined in refusing, while some added to their refusal, impertinence ; and this example was followed by the whole crew, with the exception of the cook, the cooper, and two men, the latter of whom both entered with us afterwards for the expedition. A disgraceful scene of confusion soon followed, in the attempts of the discor.ented men to leave the ship ; that being opposed by the master, whether from a wish to conciliate my favour by a pretence, or from real repentance for his conduct, I could not be sure. Be that as it may, he proposed to lower down the boats and tow them on shore, that he mioht deprive the men of the means of quitting the vessel; but no sooner was this done, than several of them were taken possession of by the mutineers, who at the same time removed their chests from the ship, with the most insulting lang');i; attended by the hisses of the Victory's crew and the reprci f the coastguard, and a crowd of spectators who had collect .; ,u witness this scene. It was completed, as far as we could see of their proceedings, by their beginning to sell their clothes, to get drunk, and to fight, as soon as they were landed ; thus proving that their mutinous conduct was but a part of a general character from which we could have expected no good. The number which thus left the John in the course of the day, amounted to thirty-eight ; those who remained, including the master, some officers, and the apprentices, being eleven. In the course of these scuffles two boats had been stove, and one man had fallen overboard ; but no lives were lost nor any known injury sustained. This drama having thus terminated, including an attempt to seduce four of the Victory's men by inviting them on board the John to make them drunk, which however failed, it remained for me to make a legal call on the master to perform his contract, and to leave him a written order to sail before the first of July, if he 20 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ,li •!'■ I :! - -r| could reman the ship; failinfj which, he was to proceed to Greenock and deliver her over to the agent, 3Ir. Ousjhterson. It became necessary also for me to write an account of these proceedings to Mr. IJooth, to which I added letters on the same subject to Sir Byam Martin, Captain Beaufort, and the Honourable Hugh Lindsay, in case any false reports, injurious to myself and my officers, or to the expedition, should be circulated, after my departure, by the people or officers of the John. » I cannot now, however, transcribe this narrative from my jour- nal without communicating to my readers what only came to my knowledge, after my return from this long banishment. Whatever else it may prove, to those who are but too ready to pronounce on that justice which it becomes no mortal to distribute, even in ima- gination, it served to satisfy us that we had lost nothing by the defection of our intended consort, and had perhaps escaped far greater evils than those which ultimately befel us : teaching us too, that the events, which in our shortsightedness we are so apt to view as evils, are full often intended as blessings. It was but in the following year, that the John, under the same master and officers, and with the same crew, barring one or two exceptions, sailed to Baffin's bay on a whaling expedition. From causes which have never come to light, a mutiny took place on board, attended by the death, of the master. Comb, but under cu'cumstances which have not yet been rightly explained, as far as I can understand. The mate, with a boat's crew, were expelled at the same time; and having never since been heard of, are supposed to have perished in the ice. The ship, then put under the com- mand of the Spikesoneer, was afterwards lost on the western coast, when most of the crew were drowned ; the remainder being saved by a whaler which was accidentally passing. "^ '■"^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIOINS. 81 to Greenock It became ceedings to liject to Sir gh Lindsay, officers, or ;ure, by the n myjonr- ;ame to my Whatever onounce on ven in ima- ling by the sscaped far ling us too, 3 so apt to sr the same one or two on. From k place on but under il, as far as expelled at supposed the com- ern coast, •eing saved m CHAPTER 111. LEAVE LOCH RYA>-— GALE OF \VI>'D OFF IRELAND AND LOSS OF THE FORE T0P3IAST — FIRST SIGHT OF THE ICEBLINKS — ENTRANCE OF DAVIS'S STRAITS. (June lo) On the same day that we had got rid of the John and her mutinous crew, I returned on board the Victory, where the crew were occupied in removing the coke and some olher stores which had been entrusted to the John as our consort and storeship. This occupied the best part of the following day ; and, at six in the evening, all being ready, I cast off and stood to sea with a light breeze from the south-west; having taken leave of all our friends on shore and settled respecting the future management of our patient Hardy; receiving the cheers of Captain Sharpe and his men, whose countenance and aid had been of great service to us during the troubles of the preceding day. On the morning of Sunday {Jufie 14) it was calm, and at noon the Mull of Cantyre bore north, the Craig of Ailsa bearing east ; when a fresh breeze from the south- west, with a favourable tide, carried us rapidly through the north Channel. It was at the first moment that we found ourselves settled and at peace after the disturbances of the preceding days, that I took the opportunity of expressing to my officers and crew the grati- tude I felt for the support which all had afforded me, and of declaring my entire confidence in them through the future voyage, whatever troubles we might be destined to contend with. Assem- bling them for this purpose, and also thanking them for the confidence which they had placed in me, it became farther my duty lo stale lo them that the defection of the John must now, as they could not fail to be sensible, affect Iheir pecuniary interests; since no prize allowances, under the term of oil money, could now accrue to them, as there could be no fishery carried on by ourselves alone, for want of stowage. As it was therefore no less just than \t •■ I ' 1 22 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY i Ij,; ■. $ I f: mm 'I ''«'' '')^ii 'iil i„i;;;.; 11 i|; 1' 1 . 1^1! *ii ■ necessary for iis lo commence under a rijjht mutual understanding on the sultjecl of wages, I proposed that their pay shouUl be settled according to their rating, as had been done in the former voyages of discovery. This was agreed to without hesitation, and w ith expressions of perfect satisfaction ; the surgeon leaving it to myself to settle the compensation due to him on this score. While our experience on the voyage to Loch Ryan had itself convinced me that our crew was deficient in the requisite number, the defection of the John rendered it still more imperious on me to increase our strength. For this purpose, after having taken an Irish labourer from Logan as a fire stoker, to replace the loss of Hardy, I also enhsted a third man from the John's crew, in addition to the two formerly mentioned; thus giving us an increase of three men, all volunteers, and immediately coalescing in harmony with the remainder of our people. We had no sooner passed the island of Rachlin, than we found a heavy swell setting in from the north-west; the apparent conse- quence of the long series of gales from that quarter which had recently occurred. Thus at least we at first thought : but we were soon undeceived, since it proved the forerunner of a storm still more severe than any which had yet occurred. It assailed us in a moment, when we were in hopes that we had at length overcome all our difficulties ; and as the gale continued to increase rapidly, we were obliged to reduce our canvas without delay. The topsail had just been reefed, and there were two seamen on the topgallant yard, furling its sail, when the head of the foremast gave way with a terrible crash. Fortunately, however, the topmast did not fall immediately into the sea, but hung suspended by the rigging in a diagonal position ; thus giving the two men time to escape from their perilous place, and to us, the opportunity of taking steps for saving the sails and rigging. We found the mast broken so close to the rigging, that it was only held in its place by the splinters ; yet it seemed possible to frapp the shrouds and stays in such a way as to secure it from going overboard. Having determined on this, no time was lost in putting it into execution, so as to preserve both the mast and rigging without dis- continuing our voyage ; while substituting such sails as we could contrive to carry on the crippled mast. Nor could anything exceed the exertions and the enthusiasm of our men. whom if it is but I :* I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 23 lulerslanding y should be II the former jitation, and leaving it to )re. m had itself site number, aus on me to ng taken an e the loss of r, in addition ease of three jrmony with we found a arent conse- r which had but we w ere a storm still ailed us in a 1th overcome ase rapidly. The topsail le topgallant ve way with did not fall rigging in a scape from ng steps for ten so close e splinters ; such a way ting it into vithout dis- we could ling exceed if it is but ;-i justice to praise without exception, so must I especially notice the active and energetic conduct of my nephew, Commander Ross. It was highly gratifying to me, at (his early stage of our career, to find in them all. the true spirit of seamen, since it taught me that 1 could depend on them in any emergencies ; ready obedience, cheerful looks, and a general effort in every man to distinguish himself amonj^ his messmates and companions in this under- taking. IJefore the night had quite closed in, the storm sails were conse- quently all set, and the Krusenstern was secured by an additional rope. At midnight, the lights on Insterhull bore west, and those of the Rinns of Isla nearly east; showing that our accident had occurred in the middle of this channel. The gale now seemed to moderate a little ; but it was only to return with double violence, though more from the westward ; while the sea was so heavy as to assure us that we could make no progress through it. Thus did it continue to blow on 3Ionday, yet with some intervals more moderate ; during one of which we ventured to cross the topsail yard for a foreyard, setting on the reefed topsail for a fore- sail ; our situation among the islands of this dangerous coast, ren- dering it necessary to set all the sail possible. Thus, although we were constantly obliged to wear the ship with great caution, in consequence of our having the Krusenstern in tow, we found that we at least kept our ground. At midnight we split the Jib; and on searching for the storm jib to replace it, we found nothing but the rope ; the canvas having been cut off and stolen by some plunderer, before we had left the Thames. On Tuesday {June 16) the gale rose to its height, and obliged us to lie to under the close-reefed mainsail ; but the wind having veered considerably to the north-west, our drift was to the southward, in which direction there was plenty of sea room between us and the Irish coast. We were therefore able to maintain our westing; and shortly after noon the gale began to break, when, by the chrono- meters, we ascertained our longitude to be 7° west; the latitude ob- served at noon being liG" 23' N. In the evening we were enabled to add the reefed foresail; but as the sea was very heavy, we made little progress. During the night we stood to the northward, in consequence of the wind having backed to the west; but in the morning of the 17lh it became northerly, and we again wore. At n h 1 I i ( Ik i III ■i;l ;il|i Til !■. ;""^ ;i4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY seven we saw the Bishops isles, together with Tirey at a great dis- tanrc to the north-east. The Qi\\v had gradually decreased; but the swell continued, and the ship laboured so much as to prevent us from taking any steps about our crippled masl. At midnight it fell calm; and the swell having abated on the eighteenth, we contrived to secure the rigging on the foremast head somewhat belter. The topmast, which had been broken off above the fid hole, and thus reduced in length, was pointed up ; and the heel being secured by a lashing to the lower mast, about six feet below the rigging, there was sufficient length remaining to set the topgallant sail as a topsail. No sail could how- ever be set on the pole, which was sprung about halfway up. At noon Malin head was in sight to the south-east, and the observed latitude was H'S" i57' 14" N, the longitude by the chronometer being 70 40' \\, On this day the carpenters were employed in making a trunk to carry the water from the pumps to the scuppers, owing to the circumstances stated in the account of our passage down the river. It was satisfactory to find that one pump had been sufficient to keep the ship clear, during the whole of this gale, though we were obliged to have that one constantly going; but as this labour became less imperious as the wind moderated, we were convinced that the principal leak must be somewhere above the water line. {June 19) On this day the wind was still adverse; and as we had every prospect of a long passage, I began to entertain serious thoughts of putting in to Loch Swilly, which was now in view^, and which we could just fetch, in order to take in an additional supply of water and provisions, and either to get a new foremast or to cause the old one to be stepped on the lower deck, and to procure a new mast-head to be fitted on it. With this intention I stood to the southward, and at noon we were within 18 miles from the en- trance, being in latitude 55" 32', longitude 7° 5o' W, with Malin head in sight. A boat now came off' which we believed to be a pilot vessel, but it proved to be a Dublin fishing boat, from which we obtained a good supply of fresh fish. The wind, which was now variable, died away entirely at 6 p. m., when we were ten miles from the entrance of the loch ; but at nine, a fresh breeze unexpectedly springing up from the south-south-west, we changed our plan, and bore up under all sail to continue our voyage. As it was now evident that we had not water and hay enough, to «\ I ! m I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2ft at a great dis- continued, and iking any steps ; and the swell ure the rigging ast, which had I in length, was ig to the lower ufficient length sail could how- ilfway up. At d the observed )nometer being ed in making a >pers, owing to sage down the been sufficient ale, though we as this labour vere convinced ; water line. se; and as we itertain serious w in view, and litional supply bremast or to ind to procure ion I stood to from the en- V^, with Malin ieved to be a from which d, which was we were ten fresh breeze we changed oyage. ay enough, to feed both the bullocks in our possession as far as the edge of the ice, one was killed. At midnight the breeze had increased, and the sea had also once more risen, so that we had again a fair prospect before us. Both increased as the day advanced; but we could entertain no doubt, that it was nothing more than the sea occasioned by the late gales, though, as it crossed the course of the present breeze, it made our vessel labour violently. Notwithstanding this, and our course being to the north-west, the Krusenstern shipped very little water, which, as we were situated, was a forlimate cir- cumstance ; and, by midnight, having completely cleared the channel, we were all in high spirits, hoping that we had now left the chief of our troubles behiiul us. The wind was from the south-east both on Saturday and Sunday, and we found that we had made about 200 miles. Divine service was performed on this last day, being the 2Ist, at eleven o'clock, and we trusted that our thanks to the Providence which had hitherto protected us through a series of troubles, which, though not extreme, were by no means light, were accepted. On Monday ( Ju?ie 22 ) the wind came to the north-east, being much more moderate ; and at an early hour in the morning, we passed the spot marked in the chart as that where Pickersgill sounded in 300 fathoms. The state of the weather did not, how- ever, permit us to repeat this trial at so great a depth. The dis- tance we had thus run was 103 miles, the latitude being 150" 152' N, and the longitude 19° 3' W ; and we here saw a strange sail, which we took to be a vessel from the Baltic bound for America. (Jww!.:( i I hi. n :i »;,,. wind nnd ihc sen continiird (o drorease, and we employed the ear- |>enter8 in filtini; up a dispensary for llie surjjeon. The engineers and armourer were also enabled to {|o on with the repairs of the engine and boiler, while the l)enow8 were farlher put into the best condition in our power. We began also to prepare sails for the altered masts ; that we might waste no time, when it was un- certain how long we might enjoy our present tranquillity. ( June 2f>) On this morning there sprang up a fine fresh breeze, but towards noon the weather became calm and foggy, so that no observation was procured. The carpenters and engineers conti- nued their work of yesterday, and in the afternoon we picked up a piece of drift wood, which, with the animals attached to it, was preserved by Commander Ross ( our naturalist in addition to all else ) ; as were afterwards some specimens of the shearwater ( pro- cellaria ptiffi?uis ) which we contrived to shoot. A fresh and fair breeze sprang up on* e more at midnight ; and at half-past three on the morning of the 27th, a strange schooner was seen standing to the north-east. The boilers having been at length repaired, they were now filled with water, and found to be water tight ; on which the engineers were set to work to connect the forcing pump to the small engine, in hopes of saving the trouble which our men had formerly experienced in working this machinery. The little skiff was now taken in to be repaired and strengthened, and the new topmast was also finished. A smart breeze of wind now enabled us to keep all our sails set, and we found a considerable swell coming from the south-west. There were some shearwaters and mollemokes about the ship, being the first time that we had yet fallen in with the latter. Our latitude on the following day, Sunday ( June 28 ), was 87° 7' N, and the longitude by the chronometer 35" W. The ship's company was mustered, and divine service performed. The wind was now variable, and tending to a calm ; and, towards the evening, the little breeze of the day was quite done, and the sea smooth. We there- fore took this favourable opportunity to set up the new topmast in place of the jury one which we had made out of the fragment of the former ; and having lashed and elected the heel about ten feet below the lower rigging, we found it sufficiently high to allow us to set the proper topsail on it, close reefed. This was accordingly done; and our topgallant sail, which had been used Ar i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 27 loyed the car- riie enRiiu'crs repairs of the put into the pare sails for L'li it was un- r|iiiility. : fresh breeze, ;y, so that no >ineer8 conti- we picked up led to it, was ddition to all H'water ( pro- lidnight ; and nge schooner iving been at i found to be rk to connect )f saving the working this repaired and our sails set, south-west, t the ship, latter. Our as 57« 7' N, Ip's company |nd was now ig, the little We there- ew topmast e fragment 1 about ten |tly high to This was been used as a topsail since the accident, was also set in its proper place. These arrangements were no sooner finished than a fine breeze arose, but it imforlunalely lasted only a few hours. We had shot some of the shearwaters that had attended us. and now determined to try whether Ibis bird was not eatable, in spite of its bad repu- tation, since it might be important for us hereafter to increase our resources of this nature, and to know to what we might trust in case of our coming to short allowance. We found them excellent, even in a pie, though the most suspicious mode of cookery for meal of such a nature, and were glad to find that we need not even be forced by hunger to adopt a food which, if it never did more, would at least afford us variety. And I will now make this remark for the benefit of all who may be situated as we have often been, whatever use it may be turned to by those who, not knowing want, may find in the sea birds a source of variety or luxury. It has been overlooked by every one, that the fishy flavour of all these animals is confined to the fat ; the whole of which also is lodged immediately under the skin, and is chiefly situated on the haunches. The muscles are always free of any oily, or rancid, or fishy faste; so that nothing more is requisite than to skin the animals, and especially on the back, to render them undistinguishable from a land bird. In this way even the cormorant and the puffin, strong- tasted as they are, can be cooked in any manner, without the possibihty of being recognised for seafowl. In fact this is equally true of many land birds; and in Sweden, where the cock of the wood and the black cock feed on juniper and fir, especially in winter, they are often scarcely eatable, from the flavour of tur- pentine ; while that is entirely removed by the same mode of treatment, so as to render them a very acceptable game for the table. I believe, however, that I must except the mollcmoke ( fulmar petorel ) ; since, in this bird, the fat is so mixed with the muscles, that no contrivance can rid them of their detestable flavour. (/wwc29) It being daylight soon after three in the morning of this day, a light air came from the eastward, and we set all our sails. We had seen an Iceland hawk last night, and now observed two finners running to the north-east. The carpenters were again set to work on the skiff, it being Monday, and were also employed in making a jigger-mast. We had made but twenty miles in the last twenty-four hours; being the worst run we had bad since i '• 98 StC.O'Sr) VOYAGE OF DrSCOVERT qnitlinf; Iho Irish coast ; hut. in Ihr evenini;, a hreozo came from the eastward, wliich continued diirini; the ni|<,ht, and served to help ns on considerably. At snnset there was a shower of rain ; after which we saw an iceblink bearing north-norlh-west. the coast of (Ireenland beinf; computed to be about 220 miles off in that direction. We also saw at this time many of the birds called boatswains, besides our former attendants the shearwaters and mollemokes. On the thirtieth we had fresh breezes and cloudy weather, with the wind from the norlh. All sail was set ; and the carpenters finished their work on the boat an«l the jif^fyer-mast. The fresh beef of the bullock which we had killed was this day exhausted : but we decided on keepiujy the other animal, if possible, until we arrived at the ice, as we mipht then contrive to use the whole, by means of the cold, in a fresh state. The boilers seemed to continue tiijht, and the pump was in considerable progress ; the bellows being also finished ; so that we had a prospect of being again able to use our steam, to some extent at least, should the necessity for other aid than our sails arise, as indeed could not fail to be the case. ( Ju/y 1 ) The leaks which had now required us to keep our pumps going for at least an hour during every watch, in fine wea- ther, and without cessation when it blew hard, were this day dis- covered to be the produce of three treenail holes on the larltoard side, abreast of the engine room. The largest of these, which was about three feet below the water line, was easily stopped, and this gave immediate relief to the pump. The other two, though less in size, were situated near the floor-heads, so that we could not get at them till an opportunity should offer for laying the ship aground : it was, however, satisfactory to have found out the real nature of these two leaks, which also, in point of effect, were of little con- seauence. The landblink was now very perceptible ; and in the evening we discerned the land itself, which we conceived to be Cape Farewell. The latitude and longitude of this point are 59" 38' N, and 42° 45' W, while our own, at the time that we saw it, were S58° 8', and 42° 30'; so that presuming these several things to be correct, our distance from it must have been about 31 leagues. During this day the tem- perature of the air and of the sea fell three degrees; the air being 46° and the water 47°, at sunset. :3 TO TUE ARCTIC REGIO?rvchirt, a com- fortable, a pair ofwadmal hose, a pair of flannel drawers, r\ Welsh wig, a pair of sea boots, and another of carpet boots. The jackel of theol!icers and petty officers were slightly distinguished, so ;t a' our ecpiipage had altogether a very uniform and orderly avr^'^'"*^'^'' These clothes, with exception of the boots, were a pr sen lo the men ; and a reserve set for each was kept in store, in case of need. ( July o ) Our new jigger-mast had been got ready on the se- cond (yesterday), together with two beams at the stern to support it and the out-rigger; and, after examining our run, we found it lo be ninety-six miles, but unfortunately on only a south-west coucse. Thus, on this day, we found ourselves in latitude 157° 47', and in longitude by account, 46" !j3'. The temperature of the air at mid- nigia had been 41", and that of the sea 43". After making a board to the south-west, we tacked at 8 p. m., and "food all nighl to th!;!ferent observation immediately after noon, and found the latilu^le to be G3° lo , and the longitude lii" 23'. Much drift wood, and many birds, passed by us; the kittiwakes becoming much more numerous. As on the preceding evening, the water fell in temperature, but again rose shortly after; the lowest being 37i°, and the highest 43° : whence we concluded that we had again approached some ice. At eight in the evening we fell into a strong rippling current which made the ship very uneasy, and seemed to indicate the set of a stream of Davis's Strait. The temperature of the water was then 39" and 40", but it afterwards rose to 41°, though we were nearest to the eastern land, and, as we computed, not more than fifty miles from it. [Jtdy 15) We had stood first to the eastward last night, and then to the westward after midnight, the wind gradually decreas- ing; and on this day it fel! calm at noon. We had tacked at three in the morning, when we found ourselves in the ripple, and as it cleared up about ten, we concluded that we were within fifteen leagues of the land near the exit of Baal's river ; discovering then also the first iceberg which we had seen since entering the straits. We could not help noticing it as a remarkable coincidence, if it was no more, that this berg was nearly in the same latitude and longi- tude as the second one which we had seen from the Isabella eleven years before. It is indeed not to be conceived that it could be the same ; yet, having in my possession a correct drawing of that one, it was even more remarkable that the resemblance between the forms of the two should have been so great as we found it. We seat a boat to it for the purpose of procuring ice which might furnish us with waier, and she returned in three hours w ith two tons on board. The officer reported that he saw several whales, and many seals near this iceberg, which was covered with birds; and he found no difficulty in landing. The brig which we had seen on Sunday morning was also in sight, nine miles to the north of us; and when the breeze sprang up about five, we saw her steer 4.. 34 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lii im rJll for Baal's river, whence we concluded that she was a Danish vessel. We saw more birds to day, including dovekies, than we remem- bered to have ever seen together before, as well as a quantity of seaweed from which many small fishes and other marine animals were procured, and preserved by Commander Ross. Of these. 1 may say once for all, that they have been reserved for the Appendix on Natural History which this officer has furnished ; since descrip- tions of them would not only interrupt the narrative of our pro- ceedings, but be of less di&linctness and utility to the reader, than as they now stand in a regular approximation. Another large piece of useful American cedar was also picked up to-day ; and the carpenters were employed in fitting an oak masthead to the foremast, that we might be ready to fix it on at the first convenient opportunity. The engineer having also finished his work, consisting in the repairs and improvements of the engine which we had planned, it was tried so far as to ascertain how the feeding pump would act, and whether the boiler could now be trusted. The former was found, or thought to hav* ueen, a suc- cessful piece of work ; but though the principal leak of the latter was stopped, the small one at the foremost end was not cured. The engine was not, however, set going, because the springing up of a breeze rendered it unnecessary. On the same evening we were abreast of Baal's river, and shaped our course to the north-north-west, that we might gain a little more offing, as the wind was to the south-west. The weather remained cloudy ail day; and, judging by the land, we thought ourselves carried by a current to the northward. This indeed was made manifest by our observations, which gave us 63" 39' of latitude, or about nine miles more than the latitude by account. The breeze went on increasing, so that at midnight we were going three knots. On Tuesday {July 14) at daylight, which was now about two o'clock in the morning, the weather was foggy, and continued so till eight, when it cleared away ; and the breeze at the same time began to fall off, so as to subside into a calm at six in the evening. Nevertheless, we were able to keep steerage way for the ship, as there was a swell from the southward. We had a good observation at noon, by which we found ourselves in latitude 64° 48', and in longitude J>3''4ii'. We obtained on this day a fine view of the remark- TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 36 Danish vessel. an we remeni- a quantity of larine animals . Of these , 1 the Appendix since descrip- e of our pro- e reader, than s also picked fitting an oak IX it on at the also finished of the engine rtain how the ould now be ueen, a suc- of the latter >t cured. The iging up of a and shaped a little more ler remained it ourselves was made of latitude, ount. The going three about two ontinued so same time ne evening, he ship, as observation 48', and in he remurk- ^ i able mountain Sukkertop (the sugar loaf), of which I was enabled to make two drawings ; the one bearing east-north-east and the oilier due east, it appeared to be about twelve leagues distant, and far overtopped all the surrounding mountains. The carpenters continued to be employed upon the new masthead; and as we had replenished our water, we served out an allowance for washing, together with a quantity of soap to each man. Some rain fell about six in the evening, and the swell increased so much as to be very troublesome ; while a breeze also sprung up from the north-east by north, our true course being north by west. At nine it cleared away, when we had another view of the magnificent mountains near Cockin Sound, and saw the land as high as Queen Anne's Cape. But one iceberg was seen to-day, and that a very small one ; and we continued to meet with birds, seaweed, and drift wood. During the calm, the ship's head being to the eastward, we found that we had neared the land considerably ; but after the wind was up, we found ourselves within about twelve leagues of it, the kin of Sael bearing east by north, and Sukkertop south-east by east-half-cast. (Ju/f/ I')) The swell continued all night, and this prevented us from using the engine, which, as far as our yesterday's trial had gone, seemed at last ready for use. The ice which we had seen in the morning had been left behind, and we saw no more this day, but, as usual, })assed many birds and some drift wood. It being clear at noon we succeeded in getting an observation, by which we found ourselves in latitude Go" 20', and longitude 54" S20'. In the morning, at eight, the temperature of the air and water were at 48", and it rose to 41J° at noon. In the evening, the wind advanced to the north-west; and, at half-past ten, we tacked and stood to the eastward. We, on this day, crossed the track of the Isabella on the oOth of June 1818, and were as far north as the Hecla and Griper had been on the l2d of July, 1824; and in the evening had a fine view of the striking range of mountains on this coast; (^)ueen Anne's Cape bearing east-north-east at ten o'clock, and the land being seen to a great distance. The carpenters had been fully em- ployed the whole of the day in forwarding their work. {Ju/i/ 16) The wind was against us all this day, and attendeil by so much swell that we could neither attempt to employ the engine nor make any progress by our sails. At noon wc were in latitude ■ I L. 1 f *. ill* fm ,iM 1' ::'i 86 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 615" 34', and in longitude, by the chronometer, liJj° 21'. We stood to the eastward till four in the morning, and found ourselves nine leagues from tho land; standing to the westward after this till four in the afternoon, when we again wore. We soon lost sight of the land, in consequence of a fog which came on about six ; but it cleared away about ten, after which we saw no more land, nor any ice. The temperature both of the air and water was 40". AVe saw a few loons and shearwaters ; but we believed that we had yester- day eaten the last allowance we should get of the latter, as we had always found that they ceased to frequent the sea farther north. {Ju/i/ 17 ) The wind was more moderate this day, and the swell so much abated that we set the lee paddle of the engine to work. We found that it made seventeen revolutions in the minute, and assisted us very much in plying to windward. In fact we could now keep the ship one point nearer the wind, with a velocity also of three and a half miles, instead of two and a half, and without making more than the half of our former leeway. In the morning watch, a good many whales and seais were seen, with numerous flocks of shearwaters asleep on the surface of the sea. Land was also seen a little to the northward of that which we had noted yes- terday, yet only for a few minutes between seven and eight o'clock ; while a fog that attended us cleared away. At eleven in the morning, the engine not having been at work more than three hours, one of the boilers began to leak. The fire was therefore immediately put out in it, when the other was found not to have sufficient power to keep the wheel going. Every thing was therefore stopped, and the fires extinguished, that we might endeavour once more to get the damage repaired. On examination, it was found that the largest and the larboard pipe, which are placed within the boiler, had been pressed flat, and that the outer edges of each had rent; thus accounting for the escape of the wate , which was found to have made its Wciy out at seven points in the larger, and at three in the smaller one. We immediately set to work to replace the large, and to repair the small pipe : but found this to be both a tedious and a difficult undertaking. The screwholes in the flaunches did not correspond to each other, so that we were obliged to make new ones, after plugging up the old. Neither did the flaunches themselves meet as they ought to have done ; thus materially increasing the trouble of m TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 37 I'. We stood jurselves nine ■ this till fonr t sight of the t six; but it land, nor any iO°. We saw e had yester- T, as we had ler north, md the swell ine to work, minute, and Jct we could velocity also and without the morning h numerous . Land was tl noted yes- ght o'clock ; le morning, 3urs, one of ediately put tit power to ed, and the 2 to get the the largest )oiler, had rent; thus »d to have iree in the 1 to repair a difficult orrespond nes, after s meet as rouble of 'M ":>; the workmen ; while we regretted every hour the loss of the valuable time which w.js slipping away. Thus did we labour till midnight, when on trying the pipes by forcing water into them, we still found farther alterations necessary, as, eventually, wo had to fit two new pipes, so as to occupy us the whole of this, the 17lh day of July. Our latitude by observation this day at noon, was 6;>" 37', and the longitude by the chronometer, !iO"; showing that we had made ten miles northing. The temperature of the air and the sea had not changed, and the wind had rather increased, without however any sensible augmenlation of the swell. (.////// 18) The engineers and armourer were still employed on the engine ; my own anxiety also causing me to pass nearly all my time in the engine room, since I found that this repetition of adverse winds might materially obstruct our passage to Whale islands. By noon, conscMpieully, we bad only made four miles northing; and it was not till five in the afternoon that the work was reported to be ready. After an hour's labour in getting up the steam, the engine was thus at last set to work on the lee paddles ; but they had not been quite half an hour in motion when the main key of the shaft gave way, and we were once more obliged to stop,. under greater provo- cation to the patience of all of us than it would be easy to describe. There seemed indeed no end to the vexations produced by this ac- cursed machinery ; since the larboard boiler also was again found to have sprung a leak. Nevertheless we took the opportunity of screwing up the ilaunches, though they were still warm; and the workmen set to work immediately to make a new key, though we could not hope to be ready for Monday. The paddle was conse- quently also hove up ; when, as if we were not sufficiently troubled already, the tackle block gave way, and it came down, but, fortu- nately, without doing any damage. We however fitted a new tackle, and thus got it out of the water. (Ju/i/ W) During the last night the wind and weather remained without alteration, nor was there any change in the temperature of the sea or the air. This morning, being Sunday, the weather was foggy, and the wind in the same direction, but more moderate : we consequently made little progress. At noon, as usual, the men were mustered in good health and spirits, and divine service performed. We saw the first walrus this day, with a good many whales, and bl '#(■ 38 SECOiND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY abiinihmce of birds. We stood off the land till noon, and then tacked ; onr latitude being Go" A'-2\ and longitude 1515" 1^', with the temperature of both the air and sea 42", and the same at midnight as in the day. {Ju/i/ 20) This day commenced with a calm, which continued till about eight, when a light breeze sprang up from the southward, and continued so as to give us a run of about iifteen miles during these twenty-four hours. Every one that could work was employed on the engine; and having fitted a new key on the shaft with all possible care, it was ready for use by the evening ; even the boilers now seeming less likely to leak than they had done before. The breeze, however, was such as to render it unnecessary; so that we delayed a trial, which was perha]>s only destined to disappoint us once more. We had now been beating about for fourteen days, in a situation little calculated to make much progress, from the various mis- fortunes which had beset us; and 1 had therefore determined, should the wind continue so unfiivourable but one day longer, to look for some convenient anchorage on the coast, where we could fish or tongue the foremast, and make such other alterations as would enable us to carry more sail. With this view the anchors were got ready ; but the occurrence of this last favourable breeze suspended the execution of this design, and gave us hopes that some better fortune was now in store for us. We now sounded with the deepsea lead every two hours, and found from 38 to oO fathoms, bringing up shells and small stones ; while the nature of the bottom and the depth of water showed thai we were probably on a fishing bank. We therefore tried our lines, and caught some excellent cod and halibut, which proved very acceptable as a change from our salt provisions. A large iceberg was seen this evening at a considerable distance, with many whales and birds. \\c still continued to shoal the water, which diminished from 39 to 35 fathoms by midnight ; continuing to sound and fish during the whole night. At four on the following morning it shoaled to 23, after which the water became suddenly deep, and we found no bottom at 70 fathoms by six o'clock. When on the shallowest part, we judged ourselves to be in the latitude of the rock on which the Victorious man-of-war struck during the last war, being 66° 21' : and thou|]h TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 39 loon, and then U" W, with the ine at midnitjhi hich continued the southward, n miles during was employed e shaft with all ven the boilers 3 before. The ly ; so that we ) disappoint us , in a situation 3 various mis- e determined, day longer, to here we could alterations as iw the anchors )urable breeze us hopes that hours, and small stones; showed that ore tried our which proved ns. A large e, with many vater, which ling to sound after whjch >ottom at 70 , we judged e Victorious and though i we conjectured that this shoal might be a continuation of the same ridge, our time would not admit of a closer examination. The land and islands near W ideford were now seen bearing east by north, about ten leagues distant; but we could not see the sun so as to obtain any observation. At three in the morning we passed the iceberg which we had seen the day before yesterday, being but the third one we had seen since our arrival in Davis's Straits. Tlie carpenters were employed in fitting up a lugyard to our jigger-mast; and the iron hoops for the foremast head were now also finished, with every thing else necessary for repairing this damage as soon as a convenient harbour should be found. We were even in hopes of getting to \\ halefish islands this week. At noon the land about Wideford bore east: but our fair wind gra- dually fell off in the afternoon, and the engine being supposed to be now serviceable, we put on the steam and stood to the eastward, with the intention of clearing some rocks which appeared above water much farther west than any which are laid down in the chart. We had been swept towards tlie shore, either by the tide or a current; but at midnight we had made considerable way from the land by the aid of the engine and our sails. The former, however, was but of partial use. Owing to the leaky slate of the boilers, we could employ but one, under which we could make no (piicker progress than a mile within the hour. We therefore stopped it at four o'clock, to clear the furnaces ; renewing the attempt at eight, but with no better success. In compensation, we had the con- tinued advantage of enduring these endless trials of our patience; and whatever rewards may be allotted to the exertions of this virtue, we had assuredly a lair claim to them. (July 2i2) It being calm this morning, the steam was continued till nine, when a breeze sprang up from the north-north-west, being right ahead, and so strong that the engine, as it was now acting, was quite useless. It was therefore stopped. We had fished on the bank as long as it was calm, in depths varying from 14 to 5U fathoms; but on standing to the west, we dropped suddenly into fifty, and then into seventy. As the small engine had been unable to work the bellows, this duty fell on the men, who had conse- quently undergone about twelve hours of this disagreeable labour, and were much fatigued ; so that we were obliged to give them a 40 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY U ■ It r inrn of four hour's rest. The wind increasing in the course of Iho thiy, Ihe nealher became fo(jj;y, and we stood lo the westward. At eight in the eveninjy we renewed our attempt with the engine, usiny only tlie lee paddh*; when it j)roved that the average of revolutions in the minute was hut ten. no effort of the engineer having been able to carry them beyond sixteen, though the ship received so much aid from the sails as considerably to diuiinish the resistance of the water against the wheel. The quantity of (ish which we had caught, consisting of cod and halibut, was found lo weigh 4lj5 pounds; so that we were able to serve the crew with an allowance of two pounds each, a variation in their food not less conducive to their health than it was acceptable. In the afternoon the swell increased so much, that the engine was no longer of use. It was therefore stopped, and the wheel hoisted up ; while the engineers took the opportunity of renewing their never-ending repairs. At live we made the land; and as it was then blowing fresh, with every appearance of a con- tinued adverse w ind, I determined to look for a convenient harbour w here I might repair our damages. We accordingly stood in for the entrance of a large inlet; and when as near as we could approach with safety, Commander Ross was dispatched in a boat to look for an anchorage. In the mean lime, having passed lo the southward of some small islands, I stood off with the ship, wailing with much anxiety for the appointed signal to bear up. I continued to sound as we stood on, and found the water deepen from thirty-five fathoms till there was no bottom at seventy. A stream, which was either the tide or a current, I could not be sure which, appeared setting here toward the north, and a creek was seen at the entrance of an inlet between the land and an island with a beacon on it. The land itself was very remarkable ; bearing a high mountain with a sharp peak on it, quite unlike in character to that by which it was surrounded ; the mountain itself is called the Old Woman's llood : and there is also among the charts a draught of the harbour which it serves to mark. We could not help once more observing from this point in our present voyage, what had already struck us so forcibly, in the rarity, almost the absence of icebergs, namely, that all the visible land was peculiarly free from ice. This led us to hope, as we had in reality believed likely before our departure from England, thai TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 41 he course of llir ' westward. At le en{jine, using e of revolutions 3er having been L'ccivedso much esisttuice of the nslsling of cod > that we were pounds each, a dth than it was much, that the opped. and the opportunity of made the land ; rauce of a con- cnient harbour srge inlet ; and mmander Ross rage. In the small islands, ixiety for the we stood on, till there was the tide or a J here toward inlet between Hid itself was harp peak on rounded ; the there is also ves to mark. point in our cibly, in the II the visible e, as we had ngland, that '^ the preceding winter had been peculiarly mild, and that the tempt- ation under which il was, chiefly, that we had determined not to lose the present summer, late as we had been in setting out, would be followed by better success than we had expected under some of our recent disappointments. i •^ t CHAPTER V. VISIT OF THE DANISH GOVER?(OR OF THE SETTLEMENT AT HOLSTKin- BORG — RESIDENCE THERE AND 1»UR(JHASE OF STORES FROM THE WRECK. OF THE ROORWOOD— DEPARTURE FROM HOI-STEINBORG. On the morning- of Thursday { Jtifi/ "ir* ) we continued in expect- ation of our boat, ^^ Inch made her appearance about one o'clock ; coming out to the southward of the island with the appointed signal flying, to signify that she had discovered a harbour. We therefore bore up for it under all sail, as the wind had now much moderated. On approaching the high land, we found it nearly calm, though there was a strong breeze still in the offing ; and at two o'clock Commander Ross came on board. His report was, that he had discovered a cove at the east side of the beacon island, appearing to be perfectly safe, and with four fathoms a little after high water; being at the same lime so small that it would be necessary to moor the ship both head and stern. Admitting that the water might ebb another fathom, there would be still enough for a ship of so mo- derate a draught as ours ; so that we determined to make for it at once. Proceeding, we first passed a round island, and afterwards a rock above water, resembling a dead whale, situated to the right hand of the island. There appeared to be a good channel, how- ever, on each side of it ; and standing on till we approached the island, we found it to be about two hundred yards in length. It was between this and the beacon island that our intended harbour lay, which was thus defended from the north by the main land and .1. iilll '' •■■.; tlllttl1», k ■'■^i 431 SECOND VOYVGE OF I)[SCOVERY the islands near, as, to the south, it was roverrd by many others, situated at various distances. The hoats soon lowed us round, and we entered froui the south, moorin{; hy ropes from each bow and •juarter. It was during this alleinpl that we first saw l' i; tuuOT since w«' had quitted the coast of Scotland on the fourteentl. ( < ti:. The conseipience was, that we had been unable to procui'j a siuf^le liMiar observation during the whole passage. It was now most brilliant ; and beini; seen between the peaks of the lofty and pictures(pie mountains of this coast, the eifect was splendid in Ihe highest dep,re(!', IIk; ru};(](>d sides and peaks of all these hills appearinf]^ in all their distinctness tliroii|];h an atmosphere which seemed as if il bad never known a vapour. At five o'clock the tide had ebbed considerably, so as to leave us only twelve feet water. We found no inhabitants on the beacon island ; but the presence of three Ksipiimaux (lop,s assured us that we W(!re not far from some settlement. Ascending, to (he beacon, I {gained a view of two magnificent inlets, surrounded by mountains of a very striking character; far more striking now than they had appeared on entering the harbour, as the view which I obtained was more extensive, lieing entirely clear of snow, while broken into precipices, and shooting upwards their sharp and rugged peaks, their aspect was very ilifterent indeed from what had oc- curred lo us in our former voyage, when the season was earlier, and the presence of snow on them not only obscured their forms in many places, but, by bringing them near to the eye, destroyed all atmosphoric perspective; all keeping anxl all landscape effect. It was truly a splendid and a striking scene, well worthy of the pencil of a very dilferent artist, as it defied the little power which I possessed. The sight of numerous rocks and breakers, both to the north and the south, now proved that we had chosen the right passage, or rather the only navigable one; guided more by good fortune than by observations which we had not in reality the power of ma- king. The island itself was a far finer object than our former ex- perience at an earlier, and perhaps in a worse seascn, bad given us reason lo expect on this icy coast, and reminded us in a lively manner of the far fairer lands which we had quilled but a month before, and the summer which we believed we bad left behind. <& 1 TO TUE ARCriC REGlO^iS. 43 iy many others. J us round, and n each bow and *Muon since w« '" f'tii;. 'J'lio rta single hiinar most hrilliant ; nd picluresqiic in I he hijjhest l.s «ij»|)eariiijj in seemed as if ii as to leave ns on the beacon issured us that (he beacon, I l)y mountains than they had ich I obtained while broken • and rugged what had oc- was eai lier, 1 their forms ye, destroyed 1 scape effect. ► orthy of the Jower wliich o the north ht passage, od fortune [)wer of ma- former ex- ad given us in a lively ut a month eft behind. 13 'fr. # Kvery praclicalde part of the surface, even the smallest spot which was not a pure precipice or a sea rock, was covered with verdure ; while a profusion of wihl |ilants, now in full and luxuriant Mos- 80IU, niidered that a summer garden which we expected to find what we had often done before, a chaos of rugged rocks and cold snow . We no longer, theref(U-e, wondered at tluise who had given Ihe name of orff, instead of the smaller one, our ship to it, as ffering iis at the er in the way of > show us such iom them, that (1 from London, fourth of June, It was found, places, so that , Flett, haviuj; and sold a part uler the gover- ?nterprize, and lid stores, with us, of those To this ho ntercst in the offer of fur- might want, hat the mizen tiler sloop of by taking it, e much time, ty, this mast and the pro- increase this quent desire his boat, 1 light inspect TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 45 im the mast in question, and determine on our proceedings respecting it. In the way. these gentlemen, who spoke English, communi- cated to uf- the names of the several islands, rocks, mountains, and inlets which we saw in passing, as I shall have occasion to notice in the place appropriated to those circumstances. To this useful information was added the most agreeable news which we had heard since we had left home ; confirming what we had already Leon led to believe from the absence of ice, and the more gratifying that it still more completely justified us in having determined to prosecute our expedition this summer, notwithstanding all the untoward circumstances by which it had been obstructed and delayed. We were assured that the present season was the mildest which had been known during the memory of the oldest person in this settlemenf, and that the preceding one had also been unusually mild. AVith this, they declared their conviction, that if ever the north-west passage was discovend, it would be in the present summer. In detail, they states' that there were only three days during all the latter part of the preceding year, in which the harbour might not have been crossed by a boat, (hat the thermometer had only been for one day as low as minus 18", and that since that lime it had never stood beneath 9" below zero (both) of Reaumur. This was a great contrast to the five preceding years. diH'ing which it had often, and for a considerable time, been as low as ."52" below zero of the same scale. They also added, that although there had been a good deal of snow during the winter, there had been very little frost in comparison with the usual course of things ; every particular confirming the general assertion respecting the mildness of the present summer. Having proceeded about three miles up the inlet, we gained sight of the flagstaff and the town. This opens to the north-west ; being on an elevated spot about five hundred yards from the land- ing-place, which is situated at the head cf a little creek, that by its curvature towards the south-west is hid from the sea, and forms a secure basin for boats or small vessels, which are also easily taken in at high water. We found the llookwood lying close to this landing-place, heeled to starboard, but with her topmast still standing; nnd though il was not at that time low water, it was evident thai she was com- I * ff ■ti lit i (lliittiifiiit 46 SECOIVD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 'k HI pletdy stranded. We lainled under a salute ; an honour which T did not expect, hut which we returned afterwards, of course, as soon as an opportunity occurred. We were received hy Mrs. Kijer. who was in waitin^i; to conduct us to their hospilal)le mansion; and inhoth. (lommander Ross was dehghled to recof^nise two oUl ac- quaintances, haviufif known them during a former voyage, at the Whale islands. Fortunately, knowing tiic Danish myself, I was enabled to converse with this lady also, as her knowledge did not. like her husband's, extend to the English language. We were treated with what we might here consider an elegant repast of venison and other things, and served hy Escpiimaux females in (heir native cos- tumes, but far surpassing in cleanliness those with whom we had been in communication on former occasions, and moreover deco- rated with a profusion of beads, while theirhair was bound with pink handkerchiefs. After dinner we inspected the settlement, which consisted of the Governor's and clergyman's houses, a church, two storehouses, a bakehouse, and about forty Esquimaux huts. The two houses were built of wood, having a ground story containing a commo- dious diningroom, a good bedroom, a small parlour, and a kitchen; the (lovernor's having an extra room adjoining for the accommoda- tion of his two boats' crews and two pilots. The apartments were low, and having cross beams in the ceiling, resembled the fore cabin of a 150 gun ship. The upper story contained only bedrooms for servants, being a species of attic. To the church there is a small steeple somewhat surmounting the building ; the inside being neat and plain, with an organ at one extremity and the altar at the other, though the former was not seen, as it had been sent home to be repaired. The (Ihurch is capable of containing two hundred persons, and is well attended ; the sermon and prayers being in the Esquimaux and in the Danish language rn the alternate Sundays. I need not say that the Danish form is the Lutheran ; nor need 1 repeat the praise so well deserved, and so often bestowed on the Danish Government for their attention to the spiritual welfare of the Greenlanders ; and as little need I notice the well-known success, which has attended the labours of the worthy clergymen who have undertaken this office, under such a banishment and such privations. The t orehouse at the landing-place is the receptacle of all heavy (* ! TO THE ARCTIC REGION'S. 47 honour which I Is. of course, as I hy Mrs. Kijcr. e mansion; and se two old ac- voya{^e, at the I myself, I was kvlet]{je dill not. ¥e were treated of venison and heir native cos- whom we had noreover deco- ound with pink lonsisted of the storehouses, a le two houses ning a commo- and a kitchen ; le accommoda- [irlments were dded the fore )nly bedrooms rch there is a e inside beinn le altar at the sent home to wo hundred heing in the ate Sundays. ; nor need 1 owed on the al welfare ol well-known y clergymen enl and such of all heavy articles; and at the other, higlier up, some of the people reside. Tliere is no view of the sea from the town, tiie harbour alone being visible. It is defended from liie east by high rocks, and also from the west by others, so as to be well sheltered ; while it is covered from the south, though at a greater distance, by the huge mountain called the Old \N oman's IIoul, and has also a prospect of a range of lofty bills fronting the harbom\ It is thus a really interesting, and ahnost a romantic spot; being nevertheless scarcely endurable as a residence, were even a tolerable portion of the year such as it chanced to be at our visit. From an eminence a little way beyond it, we obtained a tine view of the sea and its countless islands; form- ing an interesting maritime landscape, out of the power of our p( ncils al least, if not of belter ones than ours ; and, from the same point, we could also discern oin* own floating home, lying snug in her little cove. The Ksipiimaux name of this town is Tiricniak Pudtit, meaning, as we understood, the " foxes' holes. " Proceeding, alter our return, to examine the Rookwood, I soon found that some of her stores would be a valuable acipiisilion to MS ; so that besides (he pleasure which we were here enjoying, in the only day of comfort which we had met with since our departin-e from \\ oolwich. we had also fallen on what was as good, to us at least, considering our few wants, as an English dockyard. The mizen mnsl suited us as well as if it had been made on purpose for our foremast; and the provisions which remained unsold, were sufficient to make our own up again, to our needful complement. It thus gave great satisfaction to our hospitable friends to find that I shoidd lose no lime in bringing Ihe Victory into their harbour; and having promised to dine with the (lovernoron the following day, we took one of his pilots on board in his boat. On my return. 1 found that Mr. Thorn, whom 1 had left on board 4o suj)erinlend the necessary operations, had already got out the foremast, and was in the act of doing the same for the mizen mast. These things being finished. I prepared to run up the harbour, by hoisting a topsail upon the sheers which had been set up, the wind being fortunately quite fair, and by the aid of warps; under which we soon reached the town, and made f/ist to rings on the rocks, by means of w hale lines ; our situation being within a hundred yards from the shore on the east side. \\e immediately proceeded to gel the mizen mast out of Ihe 48 SECO?iD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 'iO- Rookwood ; and about nine on the same oveninj);, the Victory wns hauled alongside of the wreck, it being then high water. The masl was soon hoisted out by means of our own mainmast; when we again hauled to our moorings, and the carpenters were set to work ; the men being sent to take their four hours' rest at one o'clock. The next day {July 24) they were employed in getting up the foremast and foretopmast ; and BIr. Thom went on shore lo take an account of the provisions, which were shipped off in the Krusen- stern, together with some other stores that we had selected. In the mean time, 1 proceeded, in company with Commander Ross and the Surgeon, to an eminence on the shore near to the ship, w hich commanded a complete view of the rocks, shoals, and entrance of this place; when sights were taken for the chrono- meters, together with a meridian altitude of the sun by the artificial horizon. A series of angles were farther observed, for the purpose of determining the positions of several places in view; but under an annoyance from the mosquitoes, which far exceeded the persecu- tions of the former day, and under which my nephew suffered in a most extraordinary manner. Who is it that abuses Acerbi for his eternal repetition of the sufferings he endured from these pestilent animals, which, in these climates, render every moment a torment. 80 as to Ov upy the entire attention, and to make it almost as impos- sible to act as to enjoy? Let them try the experiment, not of a whole summer, but of a single day in Sweden, or even here in Greenland ; and I am mistaken if they do not justify the accu- mulated complaints of all the travellers that ever annoyed their readers with the records of what they had endured from this most incredible, and never to be forgotten generation of worse than vipers. Having nevertheless completed our observations, in despite of this army of ruthless devils, we proceeded to dine with the Governor: meeting also the clergyman and his amiable wife, and being regaled with fare and wines that would have done credit to a very different land from this most unpromising of all the regions on earth. Peace and happiness are of no country or situat-on ; and here at least, while they seemed to exist in perfection, we had no wish to think that it was ever otherwise than as we now saw it in this narrow, but apparently contented circle. In the mean time, the Esquimaux natives, who had crowded TO THE ARCTIC REGIO!NS. 40 he Victory was iter. The masl iiast ; when we re set to work ; at one o'clock, getliiif} lip the hore (o take an in the Kruseii- t'lected. Ih Commander re near to the ks, shoals, an*l jr the chrono- hy the artificial for the purpose ew ; but under ed the persecu- iw suffered in ;i 5 Acerhi for his I these pestilent nent a torment. most as impos- luent. not of a r even here in itify the accu- annoyed their rom this most f worse than I despite of thi.s the (lovernor : beini^ rej^aled very different earth. Peace here at least. (wish to think this narrow-. had crowded round us in their canoes from the moment of our arrival, gave their a.ssislance in hauling on the ropes, or doing any other work which chanced to be in hand; .showing their goodwill at least, and in reality giving us some useful help. Many also brought for sale such articles as they had for disposal; and thus our men furnished themselves with boots and gloves, in exchange for cotton handker- chiefs and old clothes. Few of them seemed to be ac(iuainted with the value of money : and one. who had proposed a pair of handsome gloves to 3Ir. Thom. preferred an old handkerchief to cither a shilling or a sovereign, which were successively tendered to him in exchange. After dinner 1 proceeded on board to superintend the work ; and Mr. Thom. by means of the Krusenstern, continued to ship the pro- visions, sails, and cordage which we had purchased. Commander Ross, with Mr. M'Diarmid. look a walk to collect specimens of plants, or whatever else might offer it.self ; after which we all met at supper at the Governor's house. At table, we were entertained w ith an account of the manner in which they spent their lime ; the principal occupations being hunting w ild animals for their skins, and catching whales, .seals, and fish, as the seasons chanced to permit. A\ e understood that the annual number of reindeer skins exported to Denmark was three thousand, and that the quantity of whale and seal oil. which varied much according to the season^, might be estimated from the capture of the former ranging between tw and Iw elve. It was in the mildest seasons that the least number was taken. We farther understood that 3Ir. Kijer had the pastoral charge of the districts of Holsleinborg and Sukkertop, under the <'stablished church, and that he visit'Ml the latter during the spring; baptizing and confirming the naiiv.sas they were born and as they grew u[t to years of discretion. He farther informed us, that a regular ac- count of th»? ;jpulati<'n is transmitted to the Ijanlsh Covernmenl. If I myself witnessed nothing but the most perfect good order du- ring our short stay here, so I was informed that there were very few instances of immorality, and that the general character of the Green- landers was so mild and ))acific aj: to afford no instances even of com- mon fighting; as, in no case, were thej the aggressors when contests took place between them and the Oani-h settlers or other Europeans. 1 have placed in the Appendix correct accounts of the population of the settlements which were kindly furnished to me by Mr. Kijer. fiO SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fit " ^^J No oie expects lo hear thai there were frees in the Governor's }]ar(lcn, when even the Shetland islands are reputed lo contain hut one; hut we found it cultivated, with salad, radishes, and turnips. Here, as in Lapland, the wild angelica abounds, as do the well known scurvyjjrass and sorrel, so useful lo a people consuming such (piantities of the grossest animal food. The winter is reputed the heallhiest season ; and it is in summer that their chief diseases, being pulmonary or catarrhal, prevail. Whether these are to he amended by physic or not, it was for our surgeon, not for me, to determine; but the patients cannot at least suffer much from medi- cine, since the nearest medical person is two hundred n)iles olf. at Baal's river; and even there, his practice is not extensive enough to afford him the means of doing much harm. The stepping of the foremast was finished this evening, and tlu crew were allowed six hours' rest, after a day of very hard labour. In truth, with all that had happened to us, and all thai had occurretl to tease and provoke them, besides the real hard work w hich Ihev had undergone, mine was a crew whose duties had been as little of a sinecure as will easily be found, either in the naval or tiie merchant service ; while if they had had a right lo expect a far easier and l)etler passage, and a voyage of no more than the usual maritime toils and troubles up lo this p*. inl, so, in having been thus unex- pectedly harassed and disappointed, (hey were sensible that what iiight have been Ihcir comparative holiday was now at an end, and that henceforward noticing but labour and risk was to be ex- pected. Yet there was neither murmur nor regret. Their zeal was unwearied, and their enthusiasm as lively as ever; while I could not loo much praise their steadiness and sobriety, nor be otherwise than pleased at the anjicable and good-tempered manner with which they conduct'.'d themselves towards the natives. I do them but bare justice lo piaise them, even now .- with but little exception, and lh;it proceeding from the most unexpecte-t and severe sufferings and disap; ointments, I found far more reason to admire them in '.'ic con:;ng ye?!rs which none of us could then have foreseen. [Juii/ 2U) \\ hen i ca:i'( on deck this morning at six. the crew being still asleep. 1 found a poor r^ juimaux waiting in his canoe alongside, with an oar which had been lost from one of the boats. and which he had picked up. He was of course handsomely re- warded for Ids honesty ^ showing at the same time that he had ri" :^l:_^_^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 61 the Governor's to contain l)ut , and turnips, as ilo tlic well |)le consuniinj; liter is reputed chief diseases, [hesc are to he not for me, to ich from medi- ed n)iU'S off, al isive enou[jh to ening, and thi i-y bard labour. U had oecurreil ork which they been as little of 3r the merchani far easier and I usual maritime en thus unex- ble that what at an end, and was to be ex- heir zeal was while I could be otherwise ner with which them but bare ition, and that ufferinf^s and ; Ihem in '.he een. six. the crew in his canoe of the boats, ndsomely re- nal he had m expectation of the present by which he was so deli|;hted. I k.iow not how far llie exertions of the worthy cler{;ymau deserve to share in the merit of this and the other fi^ood conduct which we witnessed; but be this as it may, I do but justing arrived, and might not obtain when we desired. Kvenlually Ibey proved of essential use to us. The payment for the articles which we had procured was of a somewhat complicated nature, but by the kindness of the governor, was made very lii'ht. He would lake no return for the greater part of what he bad furnished, the dogs being also bis present : and as far as the stores taken from the wreck of the Rookwood were concerned, all that we had to do was to send a list to 3lr. Mellish, with a reference to 31 r. Hoolb. .\fter breakfast we went on shore to renew our operations for determining the exact situation of Holsteinborg, and found the latitude to be 06"' 1)8' N. and the longitude iJo" \)i W, by the means of five chronometers. The governor and the clergyman's party dined with us, and gave us an opportunity of showing them our present arran^'.ements, together with those which we should be obliged to adopt in the future, adding to this whatever else might gratify their curiosity about an expedition in which they seemed to lake an interest ecpially friendly and anxious, and not less than that shown by our own countrymen. Oiu- ship was still however in great confusion, as could not fail to be the case; and it was not till late in the evening that we could expect to be in readiness to proceed. Taking the boat, I therefttre landed on the small sj)ot called Lines island, which afforded the best view of this settlement, making a sketch of it and of the magnificent screen of mountains by which it was backed ; after which, having written the last letters to Eng- land which 1 was now likely to write for many a day, 1 joined the whole i>avly at the governor's house at nine, that we might laheour : probable farewell, and, according ecpially to northern and maritime custom, .shake bands over a ''parting glass." There was every appearance of a favourable change in the wind, and the letters were l-r 'i r>a SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY forwarded lo Baal's rivor, to the charge of the Danish ship that had on board the master and crew of the Ilookwood, through whom we could he sure of their beinj]^ carried on to England. (July 2G) This day, being Sunday, it was quite calm in the morning, and as the launch, which had been on shore for coals, was aground, we could have no prospect of sailing before two o'clock. I therefore attended the church with the governor, and should have been surprised at the singing of the Ksipiimaux females, had I not long known of their musical talents, and the great facility with which they learn to sing even the more refined sacred music of the German school ; as those talents also had been widely cul- tivated by the missionaries, even on the American shore, under the directions of Mr. Latrobe and others. This is a subject on which my opinion and experience are, equally, of no value; and it is of no moment therefore, that, both in this and the former voyage, the tribes with which I communi- cated seemed quite indifferent to music, or insensible to it, as we thought. The authority of such a musician as the one whom 1 have named, is paramount : and when the Moravian missionaries in Labrador, under his charge, have found, not only that their converts could be rapidly taught, in addition to their accurate sing- ing, to play on the violin, and not only this, but to construct their own instruments, no one can question the inherent musical talents of this race, though the faculty may not belong to every tribe. I presume it to be pretty well known that these worthy missionaries have not treated this subject as a mere matter of amusement or curiosity, but that, in their enlightened practice, it has been ren- dered a powerful auxiliary in religious instruction and civilization, as far as civilization is possible under such circumstances as those under which these tribes exist. The phrenologists may here seek to confirm their theory, as far at least as the existence of this single faculty can assist them : but whatever this, and the parallel case of the Hottentots under the same tuition, may prove, it must not at least be forgotten that the Moravians have been the instructers in each case, and that, possibly, more merit is due to the instructer than the pupil. The clergyman afterwards presented me with a hymn in the Esquimaux language, which I subjoin for the Si.; e of the few who may take an interest in this w ide-spread tongue. TO THE \RCTIC REGIONS. 03 p that had igh whom Ini ill the for coak. 'fore two rnor, and X females, cat facility red music idely cul- under the ence are, that, both :;ommiini- il, as wc ne whom ssionaries that their rale sing- ruct their :al talents tribe. I ssionaries »ement or leen ren- I'ilization, as those re seek to lis single I case of t not at iicters in istrucler n in the few who ^ •i KONGIVTINIK. Erin . — Nallunakau lokoviksara . 1. Amerdlarsorsoangorlikit Alalak! Kongim udloee! Tamas.'i pillee attalikit l*aralii|;o kotsinguerme Tiissarkit tiiksiaulivut Sajinaiigiiiglo kongerput! 2. Tennitarpin opernarsusek Arsiitigcinarliiik Tamatigiidlo sajmarsusek lUipjiit na'llunoelink Tussarkin— a! Kenulivut Sajmaiigiuglo kongerput ! The translation will be found in the Appendix. The breeze being at last fair, and our vessel afloat, it was necessary to take our departure, as we could not now afford to lose even a single day, nay, scarcely an hour; so far was the season advanced and so much ground lay yet before us, between our pre- sent place and that in which, wherever it might prove to be. we should be compelled to winter. Our kind friends accompanied us on board, and we immediately weighed anchor, under a salute from the fort, which we of course returned. They attended us to the entrance of the inlet, and we there parted, with final and cordial adieus on each side. "Whether the two kind and worthy men with whom we had thus parted, and whom we were little likely to see again, may ever read this testimony of gratitude to them, is unknown to me, but I am happy in the opportunity of recording their benevolence. To their disinterested generosity we could not find the means of making any return, beyond the simple keepsakes which they were willing to 11^ tin *»'-S- 1 1 * . #K^''|. \ ; X 64 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY receive; refdsini; every tliinf; in the iinliirc of remuiicrafion. I Ihouifhl il however ineiiml>eiit on me, as an otti.'< » ia Ihe King of Knijlantrs service, to wiile a hller of thanks o the governor, which I aeeompanied i)y one to the Danish (lonrt : a sin^.ie testi- mony in favour of one lo whom no recommendation from me, eouUI he of any service in that ijuarter. CHAPTER VI. DISCO ISLAND— ENTER ON THE FIRST OF AUGUST — REACH OUR FARTHEST I>TENDED POINT NORTH — STEER FOR LANCASTER SOUND— ENTER THE SOUND— REMARKS ON THE FORMER DIS- COVERY OF THIS SPOT. The pilot havinjj qnittcil us, Commander Koss continued to take the angles necessary for determining the positions of the surround- ing islands, of which he had given us the names, as well as those of the several mountains and promontories. We understood from him, that Lieutenant Graaf had set out on a very interesting expe- dition to East Greenland, and that Captain Ilolboll had removed to the district of Bn.-fFd civcr. Having finished our angles, the breeze roKlinued to Ireshen in our favour, and we passed through an excellent chaiinel inside the Reef islands, holding our course to the northward between them and WAroe. The Ilolsteinborg moun- tains were soon out of sight; but we gained a view of others not less grand though much less romantic in picturesque character. We then shaped our course for Disco island, and thus were gra- dually carried to a considerable distance from the land. {Julij '•21) U being no longer necessary to call at Whale islands, that intention wns abandoneil ; and as I had no desire to meet the John, our intended consort and tender, supposing, as was not very likely, that she had sailed, I held on our course in pursuit of our main object. The wind continued to favour us all Monday, and at midnight it had increased lo a smart gale, which made us regret ;^ TO THE AKCTIC Rt(iIO>S. A.J incraiiun. I the Kiiiu of ic jjoveriior, simj,ie tfsli- II from me, REACH OLIl LA>CiV8TER >l\MEll DIS- luetl to take [^ surround- as those of tood from sling expe- removed to the breeze irough an urse to the I'Q nioun- others not character, were y ra- le islands, meet the s not very lit of our jy, and at us regret that we had not taken time to eh'ar the Krusenstern of part of her cargo. The hind ahout Wihl islands, and near South l»ay, was seen at a thstance; and, hke what we had already passed, was remark- ably clear of snow. We also now passed many icebertjs, all of which seemed to be in a state of dissolution, while the temperature of the air was iO", and that of the sea 59". NV e contrived to carry all our sail during the day, in spite of the force of the bn'ezc, until one of the tow-ropes of the Krusenstern broke, which obliged us to take in some of our canvas. The male, lllanky, had got on board of her to fasten a new hawser, when a violent sea caused her to strike against our stern, doing some damage to her stem, and one of the seamen, John Wood, then Jumping into her, was so unfortunate as to break his leg. This obliged us lo heave lo, that we might get him on board the ship and ]miI him under the surgeon's care. Just at this lime, she gave a heavy lurch, which carried away the temporary topmast its rigging having been rather slack, as it was, itself, sprung at f' ,.ad. The topsail how- ever happened to be just then lowered down, and we soon con- trived to clear away the wreck, and to set up a spar which we had. for a substitute. The boat was also again secured, and we once more made all sail. Our latitude at noon was 09" 33', and the longitude VA" 158'. As we proceeded towards the shallow water of Ueefkol, the ice- bergs increased in number, but Ihey w ere in general smaller and in a more decayed stale, being also often surrounded by fraginenls. We passed Cape Chidley; but, being as we were nine or ten lea^jues to the westward of it, could make no use of it for verifying our chronometers ; w hieh we might otherwise have; done, because this was one of the places, the longilude of which we had ascertaineil in our former voyage. Neither could we a|)proach Whahflsh islands, without losing more time than we could now spare ; espe- cially as the wind was fair for us. Even among th(; icebergs, the temperature of the sea was 41" at noon, and at midnight not lower than 40"; a fact agreeing with all tiiat we had hitherto experienced and heard, to prove the mildness of the season. On the twenty-eighth the fair wind still continued ; but the lofty mountains of Disco were concealed by the haze till we were within a few miles of it. The place '.hen nearest us was Godhavn bay, th'i residence of the Governor-general of the Danish settlements in fi r ^ iM ,rn V] V2 / c^l ^ 5 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 LI 1 2.0 1.8 |41 US Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 1.25 1.4 III '-^ < 6" — ► 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 <- i/.A 56 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY li ^t*i J f lii Greenlaiii, and it was here that the master of the John, siipposing that he had proceeded, was to land the spare fuel. I was not, how- ever, in want of any ; and as it was moreover nearly impossible that this ship could have reached it, though she had made up a new crew, I considered that to stop there was a purposeless waste of lime ; not to be sacrificed when the wind was so fair as it still con- tinued. At ten o'clock in the morning the stupendous mountains of this island burst through the clouds, forming a splendid sight; and we could see that the range next to the sea was as clear of snow as the more southern land which we had already passed. Even the inte- rior hills were but very partially covered ; so that every thing con- tinued to favour our hopes of making a useful progress this season, in spite of all the detention we had suffered. As we passed along the land, we tok angles, in order to ascertain our distance from it, and also to con^pare these with our former observations at Hare island, that we might determine our true position. This latter island was seen in the evening, its centre bearing due north. At first, it seemed entirely clear of snow; and it was not till a nearer approach, that we saw there was some remaining in the ravine. Our latitude at noon was 70" 12', and the longitude i5a° 45'; being then a few miles northward of Disco, and about twelve miles west of it. The wind held on fair ; so that, besides Hare island, we also obtained at length a good view of Four island point, and, before midnight, caught a sight of Unknown island also; carrying on our triangles as far as Hare island. Forty icebergs were here counted; and it becoming calm for an hour, we got near to one of them, and were tempted to get up our steam. This how- ever was scarcely done, when the fair wind returned, and we were pleased to have lost our labour. All these icebergs were in the same state of waste as those which we had seen before, and as soon as we had passed them, the temperature of the water increased from 36° to 42° and that of the air to 44". {July 29) The wind Avas light all this day, and we therefore took the opportunity of getting out of theKrusenstern the capstan which we had obtained from the Rookwood, together with some other articles, in order that she might be towed with more ease. At noon we were in latitude 71° 1' and longitude 56°, the Black rock bear- ing north. The land towards the sea v as here also clear of snow, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 57 but the high mountains in Ihe interior, both here and beyond Ja- cob's bay, were for the most part covered with it. The temperature of the water was 41" at noon; having ranged, during the day, from 39° to 42°. The moon had risen at one in the afternoon, but there being now little wind, we attempted to take advantage of the engine; and in some manner or other, it continued to work all night. The breeze freshened nevertheless at midnight, though the weather remained, as it had been all day, beautifully clear. {July 50) Our new mainsail was bent, and seemed to fit well; and the carpenters having worked for these last two days, all the new davits for the boats were finished, and they were hung on the larboard side. The temperature of the water rose to 46". In the middle of the day a ship was reported to me, coming down on us with all sail set, nor was there any doubt about the nature of the object, either with the officer of the watch or Mr. Thorn, as indeed the same opinion was entertained by every one on deck. My telescope, however, soon discovered it to be dtn iceberg, being one of a very few that were in sight at that time. We stopped the engine when the breeze had sufficiently freshened, and passed the Black rock under all sail ; having a beautiful view of the land, which was clear of snow near the sea, and only exhi- bited its while covering on the tops of the loftiest mountains in the interior. As we left the land during our progress, the icebergs di- minished in number, and we passed a blubber cask marked Jane, with some pieces of painted wood that seemed to indicate the loss of a whaler in this quarter. It became suddenly calm at four o'clock, making us have recourse to the engine; and at midnight, Sanderson's hope bore north-east, showing very little snow ; the temperature of the air and sea being both at 42°. {July 31) There was a breeze to-day, which continued to increase till noon, when it moderated, and the engine was put into prepara- tion. It soon, however, revived; so as not only to render our ma- chinery unnecessary, but in a short time to become a pretty smart gale, commencing in the north-east, but shortly shifting to the eastward. The swell was also very considerable; thus indicating that there was no field ice near us : and though the weather was thick for a short time, it was not sufficient to prevent us from stand- ing on and taking advantage of this fair wind. As had been the case in all former voyages at this season of the I? % r iVi till N 5.. 68 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY *^i: i F'W. s # year, we now expected lo meet with the ice, being on the spot where the Ilecia and Griper had found it at nearly the same date, and not far from that where the Ilecla and Fury were beset a month later, in 1824. To our delight, not less Uian our surprise, there was none of any kind to be seen ; and it was not till some hours had elapsed that we discerned even an iceberg. A land bird unknown to us flew on board, and was taken; and being left to Commander Ross to describe, as he had preserved it, I need not anticipate that department of this narrative which has been left to him. If the sailors called it a turtle dove, and hailed it as an auspicious omen, we were well pleased to encourage any of the nautical superstitions which served to keep up their spirits and furnish them with subjects of discussion. In the night we passed a berg, on which there were many of the birds named Xeme, which I had discovered in my former voyage, together with some others. The temperature of the sea had been 42° at noon, and the latitude 73° 156', with a longitude of 66°. [August 1) We commenced a new month with a clear morning, and nothing in sight but a solitary iceberg. We would gladly have sent to it for some water, of w'lich we were beginning to be in want, but the swell was too great to permit our landing on it. At noon the latitude was 73° 53', and the longitude 63° 50', the temperature of the sea and the air being equally 40° ; and that continued un- changed at midnight. It was, in every thing else, a summer's day ; the sea and sky resembling more what we should have expected in the Mediternanean than in such regions as Baffin's bay. The wind at length came gradually to the westward, and then died away, so that the engine was again made ready. To no purpose, "however, as a breeze soon sprang up again ; while, as one of the boilers appeared to leak once more, we were well pleased that we were not called on to use it, and thus took the opportunity of repairing it. {August 2) The wind freshening in the same direction, we stood toward the north, with one iceberg in sight; and as Sunday rose on us, it proved a beautiful day, with a sky of the utmost serenity ; the atmosphere transparent, and the sea so smooth, as almost to leave us without motion. But for one iceberg that was in sight, we might have imagined ourselves in the summer seas of England, though the air was only at 45° as the water was at 43°. The lati- tude at noon was 74° 18', and the longitude 66° 49'. There was ^B ?«;, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. de » )n the spot ■ same date, 1 set a month ■ prise, there 1 some hours 9 land bird fl eing left to 1 I need not H been left to 1 ed it as an m any of the m spirits and 1 nany of the 1 ler voyage, m a had been W •66". 1 r morning, •i gladly have 1 be in want, 1 . At noon 1 mperature 1 tinned un- 1 ner's day ; 1 ixpected in ,:i le wind at '^ away, so ;^ "however, *l he boilers J were not •ing it. we stood ly rose on :f tnky ; the it to leave ■ : ■?■ )ight, we 1 England, 'vt The lati- --I here was 1 not an hour during the whole day that we could not see twenty leagues ail round us. Divine service was performed, and the remainderof it was made what we always wished, a period of rest. On this day a large spot was seen near the centre of the sun ; and two bottles were thrown overboard containing our description with the latitude and longitude. {AugMst"^) Like the preceding, this was a summer's day; and as there was a gentle breeze from the north, we were enabled to make some progress to the westward. Both the new topmasts were now fidded; and so warm did the weather feel to the seamen, that they were glad to throw off their jackets and work in their shirls. During this delay, which prevented us for twelve hours from using our sails, the engine was kept at work ; being only stopped at last, partly to repair the feeding pump, and partly because the breeze began to freshen. Our latitude being 74" 14', and longitude 68" 13', being the farthest north that we were likely to be, a bottle was thrown over- board to commemorate the day, and I prepared letters for England, under the possibility of falling in with some whaler. At noon the air was 44° and the sea 42" ; while both subsided to 40" at midnight ; a midnight as lovely as the day had been, and which he who desires to know what an arctic night can be, should take a voyage to Baffin's bay to enjoy. [August 4) Had we been in the West Indies, I could but have found the men as I did this morning at six, scrubbing the decks without shoes or stockings. The pump of the engine was completed before nine ; but the starboard boiler began to leak again so soon after it had been set going, that we were obliged to make use of the other by itself; so that we could only obtain ten revolutions in the minute, and that with but one wheel. Thus, although it was a dead calm, we could make but a mile and a quarter in the hour ; yet this was better than nothing at all, though our debt to the engine was assuredly as small as it well could be. Though the sea was smooth, the sky was cloudy, so that we could obtain no observation ; and the temperature of the sea was one degree higher than that of the air, which was 40". We passed between two icebergs, but did not choose, under the present circumstances, to deviate from our course for the purpose of getting water from them. The never-ending engine was again set to work I fl m i I l-i- 60 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1 -w* ^ f. I 1 '• Wii as soon as we liad stopped the leak in the boiler; and, about five o'clock, we contrived to make somewhat more than a mile and a half in the hour, by the aid of both boilers, but with only one paddle, of which we could thus command nearly fourteen revolutions. The people were employed in fitting the new capstan, and in preparing the forehold to receive some more stores : and one of the stokers was nearly suffocated by inhaling some sulphurous gas at the furnace mouth. A.. few moUemokes were shot for the dogs, and we found some shrimps of a species new to us. About eleven, there being a small iceberg ahead, Commander Ross went in the boat to fetch some ice for water, as that which we had taken in at llolsteinborg was expended. We had not calculated on being so long without the means of renewing it, since we had always met abundance of field ice in our former voyages. About midnight, a smart shower of rain came; being much more welcome than the snow, which would have been a substitute for it in our preceding voyages. {August 5) At one o'clock this day we got pretty near the iceberg, when the boat returned with three tons of excellent ice. It had been found to be in a state of decay ; and it w as not long before we saw it fall to pieces. The wind becoming fair in a short time, the fires were put out after the engine had been working interruptedly about fourteen hours. For the present, the boilers had given over leaking. But this wind did not last long, and at length inclined to the south-west ; so that it was again set to work and kept in action about twelve hours, being the longest period during which it had yet worked without accident or interruption. The weather was clear and pleasant, and the wind varying more to the north- ward. At noon the latitude was 73° 43', and the longitude 73° 30' : and at six, we had increased this to 74°, being about sixty miles to the east of Cape Byam Martin. We saw the land looming, but the view was not such as to enable us to recognise it. At eight a fog came on, but the temperature of the air and sea continued at 40°, just as it had been at noon. The carpenters having finished the platform for the new capstan between the main and fore hatchway, it was shipped into its place. Two icebergs were in sight before the fog set in, but we soon lost sight of them and of every thing else. Some advantageous changes were made in the machinery, in consequence of which we made fully thirteen revolutions in a minute, with a velocity of more than TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 01 a mile and a half in the hour. The fog thickened much at mid- night; but, as the temperature was 43", it did not freeze on our rigging, as had happened in the former voyage. {August 6) Being nearly calm to-day, the topgallant sail was furled at one, and the topsail lowered ; but we could not make more than a mile an hour with the engine. At three the fog sud- denly cleared away, and the land became at once visible, as if bursting out of the clouds; Cape Byara Martin being distinguished from the rest by the grandeur of its form. All the high lands, and this among the rest, were covered with snow, with but little excep- tion ; and we attributed this difference between the present coast and that which we had quitted, to the circumstance of the former being exposed to the north-east. Possession bay bore due west, about fourteen leagues distant. A hght breeze now came from the westward, so as to oblige us to stand north; but we still kept the steam on, while the engine had conducted itself so far beyond all its former doings as to have been at work for twenty-four hours. Towards noon the land was covered by a haze, and we saw no more of it at this time. The latitude was 70° 33', being nearly that of Possession bay, and the longitude 74" 42', being about thirteen leagues to the eastward of this part of the coast. Three icebergs appeared, one of a very remarkable appearance, since it resembled a bridge with a castle perched on its summit. The other two seemed in a crazy state, and we afterwards saw one of them fall to pieces. Some of the krang of a whale had been seen in the morning ; and, in the evening, that of a very large fish came near us, so that we sent out the boat and procured a supply for the dogs. A piece of ship timber was also picked up, with a few shellfish adhering to it. In the evening the wind was directly against us, and the engine was stopped; as it was then of little use, and as the feeding pump had again gone wrong. The temperature of the air and sea was 40°. On entering Lancaster sound, I was naturally reminded of the same period in my former voyage, and being now near the spot at which we had decided to return, under the firm belief that we could penetrate no farther westward in this direction, I could not help making in my journal the remarks which I now transcribe from that entry ; though I have carefully reviewed this subject, in the ii I I -.1 It l:it I ;:J ill ill, m III 62 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY >, hm ,:i ll ■'3 1 sketch of the whole series of attempts to discover a north-west pas- sage, which I have given in the introductory chapter to the present work. ' Sir Edward Parry remarks that Lancaster sound had '' obtained a degree of notoriety beyond what it might otherwise have been considered to possess, from the very opposite opinions which have been held with regard to it." This language is somewhat ambi- guous, at least ; and either from this cause, or others, it has been inferred by some of those persons who took an interest in the dis- coveries and proceedings of that voyage, that Sir Edward's opinion was opposed to mine, when we were employed together on that first expedition. Under such a conclusion, the same persons ought also to have perceived, that as a matter of course, he must have then expressed that difference of opinion to me, since this was his duty as my associated though junior officer; and thence, I presume, they will have farther determined, that, in acting as I did, I pro- ceeded in opposition to his declared opinion. *■ If this be the case, it is necessary that those persons should be undeceived ; for he did not at that time make any such opinion known to me, and I am therefore bound to conclude that he did not entertain it. He could not have believed that there was a pas- sage through Lancaster sound, or he would have told me that he thought so ; for it would be to suppose him capable of gross mis- conduct as an officer, were I to imagine that when he was my second in command, he suppressed any opinion that could concern the duty in which we were both engaged; above all, that he con- cealed an opinion which, on account of its very high importance, it was the more strongly his duty to have communicated. Nor is there a single officer belonging to either of the ships, who, if he now says that he differed from me in opinion at that time is not equally censurable ; since it was incumbent on all to have stated to me what they believed or thought on that leading object of the expe- dition. ' It is possible that I may not, even now, influence or alter the conclusions to which I have thus alluded, since it is in human nature to adhere to judgments once formed, and so long uncontra- dicted; but I can here, on the very spot itself, where every recol- lection seems but that of yesterday, reassert with the most perfect confidence, that no officer then expressed any belief that there was TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 63 a passage through this opening, or even suggested a hint to that effect. So far from this, I was led to infer, by the general remarks on board of my own ship, and by the expressions of those who considered that they had more especially a right to be consulted, that I had, according to their opinions, already proceeded, not merely far enough, but too far. ' It is further true, and I must repeat it in this place, that even if the opinion of my second in command had been, what by many it has been supposed, the reverse of my own, which it was not, I was perfectly justified, by my instructions, and by the circumstances in which the expedition found itself, in acting as I did. Those orders were clear and decisive : not only was the season passed for penetrating farther through the ice, but it was my imperative duty, as it is with every officer in command, even if I had not received the orders to which 1 have referred, to attend to the preservation of the ships and their gallant crews. ' It is unquestioned, at the same time, that the whole space to the westward of the ship, at that period, was filled with ice, so that we could have penetrated but a few miles farther, even had we made the attempt. Nor do I think it in the least probable, from the appearance of the distant land, as it is at this moment lying before me, that my judgment respecting the nature of this opening would have been different from what it was at the time we resolved to give up this pursuit, even had I then approached nearer to the edge of the ice. It is well known that the appearance of the land in the icy seas is often very deceptive ; and when Cook himself had formed wrong judgments of it, on more than one occasion, it is a sufficient proof that the difficulty of jud\ It im A CHAPTER VII. PROGRESS DOWN LANCASTER SOUND — SIGHT OF CATHARINE AND ELIZABETH MOUNTAINS— PASS CAPE YORKE AND STEER FOR PRINCE regent's INLET—CAPE ELWIN AND ELWIN BAY — THE COMPASSES CEASE TO TRAVERSE— DISCOVER ADELAIDE BAY— APPROACH TO FURY BEACH— FIRST SIGHT OF THE TENT POLES LEFT AT THE TIME OF THE W^RECK— THE VICTORY 3I00RED. {.August 7) The ship made about four miles of northing in the morning, after which it fell quite calm, with the vessel's head to the northward. Several icebergs were in sight, and a boat was sent for another load of ice, with which she returned about one o'clock. The boilers were then filled ; and the engine being clean and ready, was set on about three. We only obtained ten revolu- tions in a minute, propelling the ship against a light air, at the rate of a mile and a quarter in an hour ; not being able to raise the pressure of the steam beyond thirty pounds on the inch. At noon we were in latitude 73° 50', having made twenty miles northing ; and we estimated the longitude to be the same as yester- day, as we had no sights for the chronometers. More krang, with some blubber, was picked up for the dogs. The land was seen on each side of Lancaster sound, and our course was about midway between the two coasts. The day was cloudy, and a few drops of rain fell ; the temperature being 40°, both at noon and midnight, TO THE ARCTIC REGIOINS. 6« For the air, and ihe water alik(>. It was so warm, that although we received none of the heat from the steam engine into the eahin, we fc.ind it agreeahle to dine without a Hre, and with the skylight half off. It is true, that the thermometer did not indicate a summer temperature for Kngland ; yet, to our sensations, the weather was as mild as it would have seemed there, with a heat of sixty degrees. Many mollemokes had heen seen during this and the preceding day; collected, doubtless, hy the fragments of the whale that were float- ing about. {August 8) As the whole of this day was perfectly calm, the en- gine was in constant use ; with exception of some interruptions in cleaning out the furnaces, and some other causes of hindrance which I am now weary of repeating. Eleven revolutions, which were all that we could produce, gave us a mile and a half in the hour. As it was cloudy at noon, we did not obtain a meridian altitude, nor did we see the land until after a very early hour in the morning, and then but indistinctly. In the forenoon, we procured a boat's load of ice, and cleared the Krusenstern of twenty-eight bags of coals and some timber. The air was at 40", and the water 39" ; but the latter became 40" also at midnight, though, for a short time in the evening, it had been at 56". in consequence probably of the vicinity of some icebergs. The forehold was reslowed, and made ready for receiving addi- tional provisions, and we also obtained some more water in the evening. As the sun declined to the northward, there was an ap- pearance of wind in the clouds; and, at ten, a light air arose, so as to induce us to set all our canvas. The remains of whales were still seen, in various directions, covered with mollemokes, and we also observed a flock of ducks, and some of the ivory gulls. The water seemed crowded with minute marine animals, and afl^orded us some specimens by means of the gauze nets. During all the last week the utmost anxiety was expressed by all on board for a fair wind ; and our impatience to profit by the fine weather made the miserable performance of the engine more grievous. That it was a frequent subject of execration, I might guess, if I did not hear it ; and if the constructer received his share also, no one could have expressed much surprise. It re- quired constant and minute attention to persuade it to work at all; as even with all the goodwill of the workmen, my presence was « I I Ik II kH I ii 66 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1 i m II I ■ i 4 11 1 for ever iT(|iiir«'(l in (he engine rooin, insumuch lliut 1 was soarcely alluwed lu sltTp. It may well llien be lielievcd that the appearance of a breeze from the eastward was looked for with the utmost solirilnde. Every hand was held up to feel if a wind was comini;, every eloiid and fo);bank watched, and all prophesied accordini;; to their hopes or fears, till they were fairly driven off the deck by the necessity of turning; in to sleep. Had we been less anxious ourselves, we mijjht have been more amused by observiujj how the characters of the men influenced their conduct on this occasion. Those of an eager disposition were continually walchinff the eastern sky, to discover, in the changes of the clouds, or whatever else might occur, the Hrsl |>romise of a fair wind ; while the desponding characters occupied the bows, looking in gloomy silence at the dark sea and sky before them, and marking, even without a word, their despair of our ultimate success, or their fears that our voy- age was about to come to an end, at even this early day. At mid- night, how ever, every symptom of a wind from the east began to show itself; the despairing few recovered their spirits, and the satis- faction of the hopeful was at length diffused throughout the ship. {August 9) This welcome wind which had at last arrived, gra- dually increased : all sail was set, and the engine kept in action till three o'clock, though by considerable exertions of the men at the bellows. The weather still felt mild, though the wind was east ; and as the men had undergone much fatigue, they were sent to rest after divine service. The latitude was observed at 74" 1', and the longitude by the chronometer was 77°. No ice of any kind was in sight ; but the snowy tops of the mountains, and particularly of the two remarkable ones formerly named Catharine and Elizabeth, were seen rising above the clouds. The course steered by the compass was here north-north-east, which, under a variation of 114<>, led us directly up the sound ; making thus a course nearly west. In the evening, Cape Liverpool was also seen above the clouds. At noon the temperature of the air and the sea equally, were at 40'-, and at midnight it subsided but one degree. That the present cheeriness of the crew might want nothing that we could add to it, they were served with a dinner f f fresh beef from our Galloway bullock : though the warmth of cne weather now began to make us fear that we should not long preserve the remainder in this state. TO THE ARCTIC REGIOISS. 67 [Aufjust 10) Diirini; llu; \\\\\\\i bolli the iioilluM'ii iind southern sides of the sound were in si(;ht, thou[;h obseuiely ; hut iis the iuurnin{; iidvanced the wind freshened, and it heenme so thick tliat we lost si(;ht of them, and were unahle to ohtain any observations at noon. The sights, however, for tlie ehrononieter being near the prime vertical, our longitude was pretty well ascertained. At eleven we had passed Cape Charles Yorke on one side, and (lape War- render on the other ; and as it was sufliciently clear to see two miles from the ship, and no land was discernible, we hauled in to the southward, to make Cape Crawford, intending to run along shore. At five it was actually seen on the starboard bow about two miles off, which compelled us to haul immediately to the northward ; and, when it had cleared a little more, we found ourselves nearly embayed, and surrounded with fragments of icebergs and land ice. \Vc sounded, and at first had fifty fathoms ; but in a quarter of an hour it shoaled to twenty-five, with sand and shells, our ship being then but a mile from the nearest projecting point. The swell had much increased ; and as we neared the land, which was now seen to be mountainous, the wind failed us; while, owing to the heavy motion of the vessel, she carried away her main boom, breaking it into three pieces. Our situation was indeed at one time very uncomfortable ; as we were taken aback three several limes, and were carried by the swell much nearer to the shore than was at all desirable. We were indeed preparing to anchor, as the only al- ternative left, when the wind suddenly returned to the old quarter, and we weathered the point. To aid us through these difficulties, we got the steam up in an unusually short time; but this unexpected breeze rendered it unne- cessary to have recourse to the engine. As the temperature of the water had fallen to 32°, we had warning to keep a good look out; and I must not forget to record the good conduct and activity of the crew, in this as in all the previous situations in which we had been in a hazardous position. The mainsail was soon set again, without its boom, and we thus got entirely clear ; when we bore up along shore, with a fine breeze from the east-south-east, but edging off a little to the north- ward till eight, when we had gradually gained a sufficient offing to enable us to steer according to the trending of the land to the % li Y*\\ - «. i •Tij ! ,;i.y 68 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY . I ' I i m westward. At three we saw Cape Yorke bearing north-north-east. An examination of the engine at this time, showed that a quantity of coke dust had been deposited in the airpipes, and that both the feeding pumps were again out of order. The cleaning and or- dering of these things occupied us for six hours, and by midnight the breeze was fast increasing. {August il) The weather this day, although foggy, was not such as to prevent us from keeping sight of the land, and at six, while passing Cape Yorke, a peaked hill was recognised by Com- mander Ross. We now met with a stream of heavy ice, but found a good passage through it; and, before noon had passed, through the openings of three others, much larger than the first. At the same time, it fortunately became sufficiently clear to enable us to see our way, and also to get a good observation at noon ; when we found the latitude to be 73° 40', and the longitude 84° 23'. After this, we found no more ice of any consequence, and were able to make a direct course of the south side for Prince Regent's inlet. Accordingly, at two in the afternoon, we made the land between Cape Seppings and Elwin bay ; bearing up, and sailing along shore, as soon as we had appr^aached it within three leagues. The wind, which had been gradually increasing for some time, became so hard a gale at four o'clock, as to reduce us to a close-reefed topsail, under which we were now compelled to scud. The sea, which had been comparatively smooth among the ice, rose also as high as we had seen it during any part of the voyage; and as the wind, being now from the north-north-east, blew directly down the inlet, the land afforded us no shelter. We therefore prepared our storm sails, and made ready to lie to under them for the night. When about ten miles to the north of the place where the Fury was wrecked, and near Elwin bay, we obtained some good obser- vations. In running down, we perceived some of the land ice still fast in the bays ; but, except a small iceberg, there were no out- standing masses on the shore. At nine we passed Batty bay, after which we met ice of a very different character from that in Baffin's bay, being much more uneven, and, generally, thicker; and from its appearance we concluded, that not only this, but most of what we had just passed, was the produce of the previous year, and had been now broken off from the shores north of Prince Regent's inlet. As soon as we had passed the streams of ice already noticed, the I; 1 TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 69 temperafure of the water at the surface rose from 31° to 33", giving us hopes that we should now see no more of this kind ; while, although we had the prospect of being obliged to lie to for moderate weather, we considered this gale to be much in our favour. After running under very little sail till midnight, at which time we had fetched from the farthest point of our progress in 1818 to the head of Prince Regent's inlet, in thirty-six hours, we brought to under the storm traysail and storm fore-staysail ; the topsail hav- ing been previously handed, and the topgallant yard down. It is now important to remark, on another subject, that while we were off Cape Yorke, and when the motion of the vessel became considerable, our compasses ceased to be of any use. Pope's, Gilbert's, and Alexander's, each of which had been used on the voyage, all ceased to traverse about the same time; and we were consequently obliged to shape our courses by means of astronomical bearings, deduced from the sun in the manner which 1 had practised in my first voyage. Thus, when we had ascertained the bearing of any object ahead, we steered for it without regard to the now use- less needle ; though when the weather became thick, and the sea heavy, this mode of proceeding either became difficult or required extreme caution. The ice soon appeared to leeward in detached pieces, and the weather became thicker after midnight, but there was no appear- ance of any danger ; so that Commander Ross and myself were enabled to t >ke some rest, after the fatigues of the last forty-eight hours, leaving the charge of the vessel to our experienced and ex- cellent mate, Blanky. {August 12) If we had ever doubted his care and ability, the event of this, following day, fully justified our confidence in him. At two o'clock in the morning a heavy pack of ice, which had been concealed from us by the fog, suddenly made its appearance at only three cables' length under our lee, being then only recognised by the tremendous breakers that were surging over it. Deciding at once, that the only chance for us was, to weather the end next the land, he let fly the storm tryysail sheet, and putting the helm up, gave us notice of the danger, immediately proceeding to hoist the storm jib and reefed boom-foresail, which had been kept in readiness for such an emergency. We found it nevertheless impossible to keep clear of a piece of i3i '"if ■•Hi a ''9 m W 70 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY M \\ ,1; ice in wearing ; yet, thongh it gave us a violent shock on the lar- board bow, it assisted in bringing the ship's head the right way. It was still doubtful Avhether we could clear the end of the pack of ice which was now on our lee bow, with the sea breaking over it. We therefore set all the sail that we could carry, and at last weathered it only by the ship's length ; finding suddenly the most delightful relief, in quitting a turbulent sea for one that was as smooth as glass ; a quiet retreat in which we could venture to finish our night's rest. We were indeed perfectly sheltered from the gale by this great mass, which was hourly gaining in size and solidity, by attaching the smaller pieces that were floating near it. At six the weather began to moderate; and, venturing to set the mainsail, we passed this ice and stood towards the land. In half an hour we saw the place where the Fury was wrecked, with the poles of the tents standing ; but we could not discern the ship, though we were sometimes willing to think that she was distin- guishable. To our great mortification, however, we could not reach the spot; and we now saw that a strong southerly current or tide was hurrying us away from this unlucky place. A thick fog obliged us to wear, and return to our shelter under the ice we had just quitted. During the day, it being more moderate, with clearer weather, we made several tacks toward the land, but always found that we were losing ground. We therefore put on the steam at four o'clock; but, as the feeding pump went immediately out of order, it was to no purpose. At five, nevertheless, we had reached a point about five miles to leeward, or to the south of Fury point, at which time the wind and weather had both improved. Commander Ross im- mediately set out in the whale boat to look for an anchorage, and we followed, with the ship, now under steam and sail both, into the bay as it appeared to us, but inlet as it afterwards proved, which takes a direction due east from this part of the coast. He had found a place, as he judged, which would afford us security for the night ; but we had discovered in the mean time that there was an eddy current setting along shore to the north-east, in the direction that we wished to go, and that there was a clear line of water inside the masses of ice, which seemed to be aground. We therefore stood towards this place, and found that we had just sufficient water to pass within musket-shot of the land. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 71 The shore here was at first sloping ; but, farther lo the north- ward, we found that the land rose from the sea in perpendicular cliffs from two to three hundred feet in height. We easily ascer- tained that tl!ey consisted of limestone, presenting the appearance of a horizontal siradfication ; but as to any other details, our geolo- gical opportunities extended no farther. A very large white bear came down to the beach, as if to gratify some curiosity respecting us; but it did not follow long, nor come within gunshot of the ship. It soon became quite calm; but between the eddy and the steam we were carried at the rate of two miles an hour. {August 13). It was quite clear to-day, and it was now we dis- covered that our supposed bay was an inlet. It appeared to be very deep, since we could see no land according to its direction, and we concluded that it proceeded far to the westward. As this chanced to be the birthday of the Duchess of Clarence, the bay, which constituted the first point of our discoveries in the present voyage, was named Adelaide bay, and the anchorage which Com- mander Ross had selected, Adelaide harbour. At tw o'clock we had made eight miles ; when observing that the tide had changed, we made fast for the night, estimating that we were five or six miles from Fury point. Our ship was secure inside of some large pieces of ice which were in a state of decay, while that on the outside was setting fast to the southward. The more we saw of this coast, the higher the cliffs were found ; while in some places projecting into horizontal shelves, and at others putting on an aspect of walls, castles, and turrets, with shapes even more fantas- tical, as is not uncommon in some of the deposits of this rock in other parts of the world. At short intervals also they were inter- sected by deep ravines, conveying streams of Avater, or showing the marks of former torrents. At seven the wind appeared to come from the westward ; and the tide, which had fallen, rose with great rapidity, so as to carry off the ice which obstrucled while it protected us; thus leaving an open passage to the northward. The land now began to trend in this direction, and we accordingly made sail ; but had not proceeded above a quarter of a mile, when the wind and the current came against us, and we were obliged to make fast to a piece of ice which lay aground. ^n the mean time the steam was got up ; and the wind being light. i »! i-4 1 1, m ik m 73 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY we cast off a second time, but made little progress, owing to the feeble action of the engine, and the defects in the feeding pump, which we could not here take time to repair. In fact, the wheels could make but eight revolutions; giving us but a mile an hoiir. We therefore were obliged again to moor to a piece of ice. On farther examination of the working of the engine, I now how- ever found that it was possible to procure as much steam in fifteen minutes as would keep the engine in action for about an equal period, and with thirteen or fourteen revolutions of the wheels; I therefore adopted a new plan for converting it to some use. A whale line was carried out as a warp about two cables' length ahead ; when the engine being stopped so as to allow the steam to accumulate, the vessel was warped on by it ; and this being done, the steam was again set on. Thus, alternately steaming and warp- ing, we proceeded along shore against the wind and the current; though sometimes compelled by the ice to haul in so close, that we V* ere within a pistol-shot of the beach, with only a few inches water to spare beyond our draught of seven feet six inches. During all this period of extraordinary and laborious exertion, lasting from six in the morning till two in the afternoon, the utmost anxiety prevailed among the men throughout the space of five miles, and especially whenever we expected to turn the suc- cessive points which one after the other obstructed our view along the shore. Every one that could be spared from the work below was at the mast-head as soon as he could get there ; and endless were the conjectures respecting the wreck of the Fury for which we were searching. At three. Commander Ross, who had then been her lieutenant, recognised a high projecting precipice, as being one which was about three miles to the northward of her place; and as we advanced, we saw at four, the tents themselves. One onlyseemed entire, and the rest, being common camp tents, displayed only their poles and ropes, with a few tattered remains dangling from their tops. Commander Ross was then detached with a boat to seek for a safe anchorage, and soon returned with the welcome intelligence of an excellent harbour formed by a large iceberg and two small ones, situated about a quarter of a mile to the southward of the mound where the stores had been deposited. We therefore laboured with fresh spirit and energy, in spite of a new difficulty which obliged us to keep outside of the ice that was aground on Fury hf ** am 11* M TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 73 point. The water was so shallow within it as to be quite insufficient for us; the stones appearin^y above it within half the breadth of the ship, so as to show that there was a wall of rock here, by the side of which we were obliged to creep within a few yards, lest we should be swept away by the current, which, but a few fathoms farther out, ran very strong against us. Here we were also much perplexed by thf* floating pieces of ice which it was impossible to avoid. But this also served at last to show us the peculiar advantage of the construction devised for our paddles. By turning off the ice they escaped all damage; and, at half after eight, the ship was moored in the ice harbour, which had sixteen feet at low water. I! iH>1 V CHAPTER VIII. S EXAMINATION OF THE FURY S STORES — EMBARKATION OF THOSE WHICH WE INTENDED TO TAKE—DEPARTURE AND PROGRESS DOWN THIS SHORE — SEVERAL NEW DISCOVERIES MADE AND NAMED —OBSTRUCTED BY THE ICE, AND MOORED. Mi The Victory being now securely moored in a good ice harbour, within a quarter of a mile of the place where the Fury's stores were landed, we were anxious to examine the spot; and having ordered the men a good meal, with the rest to which they were so well entitled, I landed at nine with Commander Ross, Mr. Thorn, and the surgeon. We found the coast almost lined with coal ; and it was with no common interest that we proceeded to the only tent which remained entire. This had been the mess tent of the Fury's officers; but it was too evident that the bears had been paying it frequent visits. There had been a pocket near tlie door where Commander Ross had left his memorandum book and specimens of birds; but it was torn down, without leaving a fragment of what it contained. The sides of the tent were also in many places torn out of the ground, but it was in other respects entire. 6. ili 0^ 74 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I ' m W tit '. * « I ft.; Ml Where the preserved meats and vegetables had been deposited, we found every thing entire. The canisters had been piled np in two heaps; but though quite exposed to all the chances of the climate, for four yejrs, they had not suffered in the slightest degree. There had been no water to rust them, and the security of the joinings had prevented the bears from smelling their contents. Had they known what was within, not much of this provision would have come to our share, and they would have had more reason than we to be thankful for Mr. Donkin's patent. On examining the contents, they were not found frozen, nor did the taste of the se- veral articles appear to have been in the least degree altered. This was indeed no small satisfaction; as it was not our luxury but our very existence and the prospect of success, which were implicated in this most gratifying discovery. The wine, spirits, sugar, bread, flour, and cocoa, were in equally good condition, with exception of a part of the latter which had been lodged in provision casks. The lime juice and the pickles had not suffered much ; and even the sails, which had been well made up, were not only dry, but seemed as if they had never been wetted. It was remarkable, however, that while the spun yarn was bleached white, all appearance and smell of tar had vanished from it. We proceeded now to the beach where the Fury had been aban- doned, but not a trace of her hull was to be seen. There were many opinions; but all were equally at liberty to conjecture what had become of the wreck. Having often seen, however, what the moving masses of ice could do on this coast, it was not difficult to guess in general what we could not explain in detail. She had been carried bodily off, or had been ground to atoms and floated away to add to the drift timber of these seas. At any rate, she was not to be found ; we had seen no appearance of her during the ten miles that we had coasted within pistol-shot of the shore to the southward of this place, and we now examined it for two miles to the northward with no better success. We therefore returned on board, and made preparations for embarking a sufficiency of stores and provisions to complete our equipment for two years and three months ; being what we ex- pected to want on the one hand, and to obtain on the other. I need not say that it was an occurrence not less novel than interest- ing, to find in this abandoned region of solitude and ice, and rocks. 1 TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 75 1 deposited, piled up in nces of the I test degree, urity of the r contents, ision wonld lore reason amining the te of the se- ered. This ury but our I implicated igar, bread, exception of ;asks. The en the sails, jeemed as if wever, that e and smell been aban- rhere were cture what what the difficult to She had and floated rate, she during the lore to the ^0 miles to ations for plete our at we ex- other. I 1 interest- nd rocks. 1 1 ■■is a ready market where we could supply all our wants, and, collect- ed in one spot, all the materials for which we should have searched the warehouses of Wapping or Rotherhithe : all ready to be shipped when we chose, and all free of cost ; since it was the certainty of this supply, and a well-grounded one it proved, that had formed the foundation of the present expedition. A list of our wants was accordingly made out by Mr. Thorn, who remained on board to receive the stores, together with the leading mate and a few hands. On shore, the rest of the crew were ready with the boats to receive and transport whatever was to be taken ; and the steward together with the surgeon were employed in select- ing whatever appeared to be of the best quality. Yet all that we could possibly stow away seemed scarcely to diminish the piles of canisters, of which we embarked whatever we could, together with such flour, cocoa, and sugar, as we wanted; all that we took being in excellent condition. {August 14) We continued our embarkations this day, inclu- ding ten tons of coals ; and, after allowing the men some rest, we contrived to get these, together with all the provisions and a part of the stores, on board before dinner time. We had found the spare mizen topmast of the Fury ; and this was selected by the carpenter for a new boom, in place of the one that we had lost. We also got some anchors and hawsers, together with some boatswain's and carpenter's stores to make up our deficiencies. Some of the best of the sails were taken to make housings ; having found that belonging to the Fury damaged from having been ill made up, and from having lain in a situation which prevented the melted snow from running off. A skreen lined with fearnought was also found in tolerable condition ; but the bears had overset the harness cask, and devoured nearly the whole of the contents. We found that some of the candle boxes had been entered, either by ermines or mice ; one of them being entirely emptied, and the others partially. Though bleached, and especially on the upper side, as I already remarked of the spun yarn ; none of the ropes were rotten, while the cables seemed perfect ; and thence we concluded that the canvas of the tents had merely been blown away by the wind, after the bears had loosened the cloths at the foot, in attempting an entrance. The chain cable and the carronades were more or less covered by the small stones on the beach, and except being slightly rusted. u It M 1 i n m 76 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY iH < ' ''>i were just as they had been left. The powder magazine, detached from the rest of the store, was unroofed, and the waterproof cloth of it in tatters; but the patent cases had kept the gunpowder itself perfectly dry. We selected from it what we thought w should require; and then, in compliance with Sir Edward Parry's request and our own sense of what was right, caused the remainder to be destroyed, lest it should prove a source of injury lo any Esquimaux who might hereafter chance to visit this spot. And with this we ended our new outfit : storing ourselves, somewhat like Robinson Ousoe, with whatever could be of use to us in the wreck; yet if thus far greedy, having in view but the execution of our plan, and precluded by our limited means of stowage from encumbering our- selves with superfluities. In the evening we olitained sights for the chronometers, and found that they gave a difference of 40' in longitude from that which had been laid down in the chart. And as this was the first place of verification which we had obtained since leaving England, we carried on both sets of longitudes in our proceedings, till it should be ascertained by a series of observations which was nearest the truth. The tides were found to be very irregular ; but not so much at the time of low or high water as during the rise and fall. On the first night, the tide rose seven feet, the flood being all the while from the northward ; but the following two were three feet less, though, in consequence of the approaching full moon, they ought to have increased. In the offing, both during the flood and the ebb, the stream took the direction of the wind. Several whales were seen this day, and shoals of the white whale were observed running up and down the coast. It had been nearly calm for two days; but at eight in the after- noon a fresh breeze sprang up from the northward, and the ice har- bour that we lay in began to break up. A dogkennel for which we had no use, was landed above high water-mark, and two bottles were left in it, containing an account of our proceedings up to that date. The boats were then hoisted up and secured, as was the Krusenstern, in the usual manner; and casting olf the ship from the ice we made sail for Cape Garry. It is true that the opening which we had seen leading to the westward held out the appearance of a passage, but it was less clear of ice, and had r, much more feeble TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 77 current than that to the southward. It was this also which seemed likely tu lead us soonest to the American continent; while, in addi- tion to all these reasons, we had the temptation of a fair wind in this direction. At midnight the weather became thick, and soon after it rained in torrents, when we lost sight of land. As I formerly remarked, our compasses had ceased to traverse whenever the ship had any motion; and, as we had no means therefore of ascertaining the true course, we steered by the wind, the direction of which we had observed before it became thick, and by the bearing of a stream of ice which we had noted : under which guidance, and using the pieces of ice as marks, we contrived to make Cape Garry very well. (August 15) It was about four miles from us at eight o'clock in tJie morning; ami, at nine, we sounded at about a quarter of a mile, in twelve fathoms water. The land here was comparatively low, but apparently of the same limestone; and, as this was the farthest extremity of the coast which had yet been discovered, our voyage now began to acquire its peculiar interest, since as yet we had seen nothing that was not more or less known. It had also been conjectured that there was an open sea between this point and the American continent : but this we soon found to be erroneous ; since, after turning a little to the westward, the land, as far as we could judge, extended in a south-south-west direction, and appeared to be continuous. At a quarter of a mile from the beach we found bottom from ten to twelve fathoms, and continued to run in this depth, and at the same distance from the shore, at the rate of three miles and a half in the hour, passing through many pieces of heavy ice, which, while they kept the sea smooth, assured us that the water continued sufficiently deep for our ship. The greatest danger therefore which we had to apprehend, was that of being suddenly embayed ; and we therefore kept ourselves in readiness to haul off or to anchor as might prove to be necessary. Though the risk too was consi- derable, we could not afford to lose the fair wind while the sea was sufficiently open. At ten we came to a fine bay ; and, sailing round it, found it to be about a mile in length and in breadth; and as, by a singular coincidence, this proved to be the birthday of our worthy builder, Mr. Fearnall, I conferred his name on it, and those of two members I i ':|J m m I 11 :*; .irttr'i 78 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I ■ w m of a Cainily to whose kindnesses when fltlinfj out we were much indebted, on the capes by which it was formed. Near the bottom of this bay, that, which at a distance appeared to be sand, proved to be limestone ; and frai;ments of the same rock were also brought up by sounding^. The land was here (piite clear of snow and ice. At eleven we passed the southern point, and, a little before noon, came to the entrance of a river discharging itself by a multitude of channels; exhibiting a deposit of alluvium which is far from common on these northern shores, and appearing to flow through a considerable space inland. It was named Lang river, after my friend of Woolwich yard who had so much exerted himself for our former expedition : after passing this, the land trended a point more to the westward. At two we passed another similar, but much smaller stream ; and, two miles farther, a remarkable peaked hill which I named Mount Oliver. The other names of this part will be found in the chart. A point appeared shortly jutting out here to the eastward, about which were collected a number of icebergs aground, indicating the presence of a shoal, extending about a mile off; and a narrow inlet opened to the northward of it, which appeared to be full of ice, and was probably shallow throughout, considering that there were but ten fathoms water on the outside. This opinion was confirmed by finding that there was here no appearance of any current, either into or out of it, though there was a very strong one running out- side. I named this inlet Hazard inlet. Round this point we found a very small island, to which 1 gave the name of Ditchburn, and to the land within it Boothia, being at the distance of a mile, and appearing to be continuous in the gene- ral direction already visible. It now fell nearly calm ; but, while the ice became thicker and heavier towards four in the afternoon, the fog cleared away, and there broke on our view a range of moun- tains rising beyond the land that we had been coasting, which we now saw clearly to be a low and flat tract, continuous eastward with this elevated region, and consisting, not of an uninterrupted plain, but of a series of low grounds and islets, among which we could but ill discern what was a real island and what was connected by an isthmus with the shore. Many whales of a light colour came close to us; appearing to be quite indifferent to the presence of the ship ; and if this proved that y: V TO TDE ARCTIC REGIONS. 79 ihry had no experience of the fishery, so was it evident that here the whalers might find an easy prey, if it could be expedient for them to make the trial, and such trials should be as successful as ours. The mainland now appeared (piite blue as the sky continued to brighten, being as clear of snow as the lower grounds. Pursuing our course, we observed a low island surrounded by icebergs, and subsequently a low point, from the end of which several islets and rocks stretched out, appearing to cover a large bay formed in the high blue land and full of close-packed ice. A low tract was also visible to the southward of this; beyond which the mountain range extended, as far as the eye could reach, in a south-south-east direc- tion as far as we could judge. We could not here, however, approach nearer, on account of a tract of closely-packed ice, which formed a crescent exteniling from the shore round to the east and north-east. This was the first time that our progress had been entirely obstructed ; and it was only now we found that we were still too early in the season to explore this passage; a discovery that consoled us for all our delays, in spite of which we were now convinced that we had made a greater progress than we could originally have expected in a single season, as we should also have gained nothing by being earlier. At eight in the evening the wind came fresh from the north-west, which gave us an opportunity of examining more minutely the possibility of penetrating farther; but no opening was to be found, neither was there any clear water visible over the ice, in any direc- tion south of the east or west. We were therefore obliged to haul off and beat the whole night among the drift ice, which was streaming from the north-west, out of the different bays and creeks. Our estimated distance was about thirty miles south of Cape Garry. (August \Q) The wind continued about north-west, and we kept on beating to gain the weather shore, near the last point we had passed, which now bore north-west by west. At two in the morning we got near to the land, and made fast to an iceberg about musket-shot from the beach, in three and a half fathoms water, being at the common entrance of two beautiful little harbours. By the time we were secured and the sails furled, it was too late for the usual church service ; and as the men had undergone great fa- tigue, they were allowed the hours for rest. I went on shore with I .It v>i\ ^1 3 'i' >* tm 80 SECOND VOYA(iE OF DISCOVERY !: I ,11 M It , It *V: f 14 hII the officers, to t,ik« fonnnl possession of llio new-discovered liuul ; rauite, indicatin(][ the probable nature of the mountainous country beyond. >0n the east side the rock was ipiite bare, but the west displayed some vegetation, with plants in flower, thai were collected for IIk; /tortus siccus. An old Es; to work through it. The latitude observed at noon yave 71" Sil)', and the longiliide l>y chronometer, corrected to Kiu'y point, })3" 5:2' ; ma- kinfi the place where the fla[; was hoisted, exactly 73" N, and 9.1" 40' W. We had here left a bottle containing an account of our proceedings, and had well secured it by means of a cairn of stones, on which was placed a post. The tide having risen during the night, and floated the iceberg to which we were fast, we were obliged to cast off and let go our anchor in ten fathoms, about two cables' length nearer the point of the island than before. The steam was then got ready ; and, there being a light air of wind, we look advantage of this and of the tide, weighed, and stood out for the opening that seemed to lead to tlie southern point, which was ten or twelve leagues distant. • It soon, however, fell calm, and the engine acting very badly, we made little progress. At six we were to the eastward of a large rock which seemed to be part of a reef extending between the points of the inlet in view to the westward, and which was full of ice. Near this rock there were many whales, apparently feeding and enjoying themselves in perfect security, and one large one came very near the ship. When- ever also the paddles were in motion, the seals were roused up, and seemed to be very abundant. At eight o'clock a breeze sprang up from the northward, en- abling us to approach the land, vvhich was tolerably clear of ice till midnight; but the engine working to little purpose it was stopped, and the paddle hoisted up. Unfortunately, the weather became thick at ten, so that we could only shape our course by the wind : a hazardous guide, as it might shift, without our being able to per- ceive it, for want of marks or compass, and thus lead us into peril. Still it was a risk worth venturing ; since it was by working to the southward, that we might get hold of the land which we presumed to be the American continent. {August 18) We continued to run at the rate of three and a * ( hi i '1 «.. 82 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY M HI i! ;# "m half miles in the hour, among pieces of heavy ice, against some of which we could not avoid striking ; receiving many hard blows, but no damage. At four, however, it became so thick, and the ice so close, that we could penetrate no farther, and therefore made fast to a floe which we supposed to be near the point in question, since we had run about twenty miles. The depth of water was at first twenty-two fathoms ; but we soon increased it to thirty-three by drifting. There were sufficient indications that the wind had continued true north, and therefore that we had steered south and a little easterly. About ten the weather cleared, so as to enable us to see our way to the westward ; and we cast off from the floe to which we had made fast when we had first stopped, since it still continued drifting to the north-east. We then stood to the westward through ice which was often so thick as entirely to stop our progress 5 and, after much labour by warping, got within sight of the land, which was low and encum- bered by a continuation of the reef of rocks which we had pre- viously seen. As it was, however, possible that there might be a deep channel near the land, I determined to cross this reef, which we accordingly attempted in a depth of four fathoms, at first, which g.adually shoaled into two, thus leaving us little more water than we could venture to stay in. Here we made fast to a floe, and sent the boat forward to sound ; thus discovering that there was no passage near the land, and being compelled to return by the way that we had attempted. We were favoured in this by the wind shifting a little more to the westward, and were enabled to reach the deep water by six o'clock. We could not, however, discover how far we had proceeded since yesterday, since we had no observations at noon. Holding on, nevertheless, we forced our way through the lanes of water and the loose ice before us ; receiving many other severe rubs, but no damage either to the ship or the boat, and, before midnight, succeeded in getting into some clear water that seemed to lead along the land to the southward. Here the temperature of the sea was 32°, the wind being due north. {ylugust 19) We continued to stand to the southward without interruption, till four o'clock on this morning, when, in attempting to pass between two large pieces of ice, they suddenly closed, so as to give us a considerable squeeze, but without any irgury j while TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 83 we ultimately forced our way between them. Soon after this it was evident that the clear water was nearly at an end ; and as the wind had freshened, we had no choice but to make fast for pro- tection, to the largest piece we could find. This was done at five o'clock ; and the weather becoming clear a little before eight, we found that the land bore from north-north-west to south by east, and the nearest point, which was about three miles off, west by north. There were now forty-five fathoms water; but we were closely beset by the ice, which, as it was drifting down on the piece to which we were fastened, carried this on the next to leeward. The Krusenstern was now cast off and placed in a natural dock near us; and towards noon we found that we had drifted several miles along the land to the southward. ^^fe had here thirty fathoms ; and the shore nearest us was a flat, smooth land, with a low cape, which 1 named Charlotte. Behind this was a range of hills, of no very great apparent height, but blue, and clear of snow, while extending farther south than the lower land. The ice, too, seemed to be all drifting in that direction. Some sights obtained for the chronometer gave the longitude 94" 40'; but we were obliged to estimate the latitude at 71" 20', as we could obtain no meridian altitude of the sun. Before noon the ice, which was the heaviest we had yet seen, came down on us with great pressure, and the rudder was barely, yet but partially, unshipped in time to save it. We continued to drift to the southward, pretty smoothly, together with the ice, until eight: when it slackened a little, so as to give us the means of entirely extricating the rudder, which was then hoisted up and laid across the stern. Not long after, some fresh masses of ice lifted the Krusenstern nearly out of the water, and turned our own head to the shore ; but after this we lay quiet all night, in depths varying from fifty-five to thirty-two fathoms ; while, by the marks on the land, we could see that we were drifting southward with the whole body of ice. At midnight the temperature of the air was 36°, and that of the water 30°; the nearest land being about four miles off. {August 20) The weather was more clear this morning than it had been since Sunday, and we had a good view of this newly-dis- covered land, which extended from north 25° west to south 20° east. We had been drifted so close to the low point nearest us, that carry- '!i ''^: 'I WL •> w 84 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY '^1 *!fi h» ing the characters of the preceding in our eye, we could see that this consisted of the same limestone. It was a smooth tract, as far as it was visible, which was over an extent of ten miles, without either depressions or rising grounds. That behind it offered, as it had done before, a complete contrast of character ; having the rugged- ness and irregularity of surface which marks the granite or analo- gous rocks, and the atmospheric colouring making it appear of a dark blue. The coast was broken and hollowed into little bays, and skirted by rocks and small islands ; one of which appeared about a mile in length, elevated at the western side, and terminating in a low point to the eastward; whence we concluded that such was the general elevation and tendency of the limestone, flat as it might have ap- peared to us when seen in a different direction. The latitude ob- served here at noon was 70° 59', and the longitude 93° 2'. The ice still continued closely packed and drifting, with several lanes of water among it. Many whales were seen, together with some seals ; but we could not contrive to take any of the latter. The soundings exhibited fragments of granite and limestone; and the temperature of the air and water were, respectively, 39° and 32°. "We aired the small sails and the people's clothes ; and several matters were done in the ship in the carpenter's department, and in that of the engineer; especially in clearing the pipes of the coke dust by which they were choked. The wind was variable during the day ; and, by the marks on the shore, we could see that we drifted, sometimes to the northward and at others to the southward, as the ice moved; invariably deep- ening the water in the latter direction, and finding it vary from 42 to 69 fathoms, with a calcareous muddy bottom and stones. The motion and state of the ice formed an anxious subject, to those especially to whom this region was new : we, who were experienced, were easily consoled for such detention as this, by recollecting how much farther we had already penetrated than former expeditions, though under the many disadvantages by which we had been at- tended. There was not, indeed, any immediate prospect of a release; and even we who had acquired experience from other voyages in these regions, were somewhat disconcerted by finding that a formation of new ice was commencing on the holes near the ship's side : the thermometer, for the first lime, falling as low as 29° TO THE ARCTIC REGIOJiS. 86 see that this , as far as it ihout either I, as it had he rugged- e or analo- jppear of a and skirted lit a mile in a low point the general it have ap- Jtitude ob- in the water, while the air was only 30°. Still we thought that the clear water near the land was increasing in dimensions, and the great packs of ice becoming slacker. CHAPTER IX. ATTEMPTS TO WORK ALO]VG SHORE — DISCOVERY OF PORT LOGA?i — LAISD THERE— TRACES OF ESQUIMAUX — LABOURING AMO>'G THE ICE— DISCOVERY OF ELIZABETH HARBOUR. ' I i ith several ether with the latter. Jtone ; and )° and 32°. nd several 'nt, and in the coke ks on the orthward bly deep- froni 42 Hes. The to those erienced, ting how editions, been at- ect of a m other ' finding near the V as 29° 1 [August 21) On this day there was a great and sudden change of that threatening temperature. It was again, to the feelings, like a summer day in England, and the thermometer rose to 38°, as that of the sea did to 31°: this change having commenced at four o'clock in the morning. Much of the new ice dissolved therefore, more sea appeared open, and we had an excellent view of the land ; the atmosphere being as clear as the air was calm. The shore still displayed the same flat features, forming a crescent of about sixteen miles in extent, and to the north of the point which the ship faced. At that place a small island was discernible, and the shore still seemed skirted by small rocky islands, which appeared to form many harbours and creeks. We were not moic than four miles from the beach; but could not by the telescope discover any living creature except two large whales. At noon the observations showed that we were a mile and a half farther south than on the day preceding, but we had no sights for the lon- gitude. The ship continued beset, and went on drifting with the ice, in all directions, as the wind chanced to vary, while the depth of the water increased to 87 fathoms. The men were employed, in their several departments, about the rigging and the engine, and in fitting a collar and bits for a new bowsprit. Towards the evening the slacking of the ice was more perceptible, and a lane of clear water to the south-east was discernible by the terrestrial refrac- ii m if »{ i^ * - 1 II 83 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I '>i3 n ;fi •r ill l|f 'ij' I'M"" ' [^ i lir I iil returning ice lo annoy us. All that we wanted was a fair wind, as the passage along the land was clear ; yet even this want was pro- bably in our favour as matters were situated ; since, by carrying the ice away from the quarter to which our views were directed, it would probably give us a still clearer sea in no long time. Though the wind increased considerably towards evening, the weather became much warmer, and, to our great joy, there came on some rain, since we concluded that it would aid in thawing and breaking up the ice. At noon the observed latitude was 70° 154', being rather more than four miles south of our last obser- vation. One seal was killed, and proved excellent. At noon the air was at 36" and the water at 32", with no variations afterward ; and the tide continued to rise about four feet and a half. {August 26) At six o'clock this morning it became quite calm, and the ice being sufficiently open to the southward, the water smooth, and no current, the engine was put in action, but performed so badly that we made no more than one mile in the hour, not being able to obtain more than seven revolutions in a minute. We passed the low point near which we were moored, in seven fathoms water, at the distance of two miles from the beach, and then gradually dropped into eighteen, when we opened the entrance of a spacious bay exposed lo the south-east. At the bottom of this there appeared to be a stream, and the land that we were approaching was more rugged and lofty ; consisting, in that part, of what again seemed to be granite, while, below, it appeared to be limestone, as before, with many loose fragments. Within a mile of the shore the water deepened to fifty fathoms; but even here we found that the large icebergs were aground, touching the rocks in many places. About four o'clock a fog came on, but we were able to keep the land in sight by sailing within a quarter of a mile of it. At seven Commander Ross was sent to look for a harbour in the bay, and he was fortunate in finding a very good one, which I named Port Logan. We entered it at eight, the water being shoaler, and the icebergs grounded at such a distance from the shore as to give us an excellent pier harbour within them, with twelve feet at low water, and our stern not above fifty fathoms from the rocks. This was, however, a safe position, notwithstanding that proxi- mity and the small depth of water, ^'.u^.^ the icebergs were imnio- Jir wind, as nt was pro- jy carrying directed, it e. reninQ, the there came in thawing tilude was last obser- t noon the afterward ; uite calm, the water performed not being We passed >ms water, gradually i spacious appeared tvas more seemed to J before, he water the large keep the At seven )ay, and (led Port icebergs excellent and our t proxi- t immo- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 89 vable. We landed at nine to take possession, and walked three miles, up a valley of a much more pleasing character than the ge- neral aspect of the country had led us to expect, it was traversed by a river, through the channel of which a small stream was now running, but which bore the marks of being a considerable torrent during the melting of the snows. This river was named the Mac- doual. We saw here the recent marks of deer and of the musk ox, and also shot a white hare. ( August 27) This day was a continued calm, and though foggy in the morning, sights were obtained for the chronometers. I as- cended with Commander Ross to the precipice at which the ship was fast, which seemed about 200 feet high, but our view was ob- structed by much higher land to the southward and westward. We saw no animals; but the traces of bears, deer, and ptarmigan were visible in many places. This hill was of granite, so as to confirm our conjectures respecting the higher lands at a greater distance, and was intersected by veins of quartz; and, at its foot, with gra- nite fragments, there were also masses of whitish limestone, with shells imbedded in the slaty strata that accompanied it. There was very little vegetation, but the margins of two small lakes on the summit were surrounded by lichens and mosses. This, and all the adjoining land was entirely clear of snow ; and the water of the lakes stood at 38°, while the air was to-day as high as 42°. Obtaining here a meridian altitude of the sun, we found the latitude to be 70° 48', and the longitude 93° 18', giving 92° 48' when corrected by that of Fury point. The dip of the magnetic needle was 89° 46' west. After these needful observations, we took possession of this continuation of our discoveries, according to the usual forms, selecting another elevated spot for this purpose. At that part of this coast the land was undulated into hills and valleys; most of the latter containing lakes abounding in small fish about three inches long, not unlike trout, described among the other ar- ticles in natural history, hereafter. We obtained some dozens by means of our net ; but it was too large in the meshes to secure as many as we might otherwise have taken. We hence proceeded to a hill about 300 feet high, five miles farther to the southward, from the top of which we had a most satisfactory view. The land appeared to extend in a south-westerly direction from the island, and, to the eastward of south, all was i " iM 111 90 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [* 4. 'ft '.■ i-Kw water for a space of thirty miles ; the ice bein^ such as to give us every prospect of getting through whenever the wind should become fair, since it was vain to reckon on the assistance of the engine any longer. We here fell in with a covey of ptarmigan, and killed a brace; as we also shot the only other bird we saw, a snow bunting. From the farthermost point of the bay in which wc lay, and at the distance of six miles, there appeared an inlet, or bay, about two miles deep : the point which was to the southward of it extending considerably to the eastward, while off its northern one there was an island which seemed, on its north side, to have a good harbour about half a mile in circumference, which I named Moltke bay, giving the name of lijornstjerna to the inlet itself. The narrow and low island lying to the eastward of this, ap- peared not more than a quarter of a mile long and twenty yards wide; being scarcely elevated above the water, and seeming to offer a passage between it and the shore. It was named Rosea Island. From its southern extremity the land trends to the south- south-east, presenting a succession of points and harbours which we had occasion to examine more particularly afterwards. Behind the southernmost point of the island mentioned on the 22d as bearing south 14" E, the land appeared to trend more to the westward; and we were now sure that the farthest point we saw was the same that bore south of us when lying at the floe on that day. We returned at nine, after an interesting walk, but which had proved very laborious along the shore, in consequence of the frag- ments of ice and rocks. In the evening it was foggy; and towards midnight there was a breeze from the norlh-norlh-west. The tide rose three feet six inches, it being three days before full moon; but it was irregular, and we could not make out its velocity. At the bottom of the bay, I must now add, we had found about twenty summer habitations of the Esquimaux, situated between two streams there flowing into the sea. They were of such recent erection as to mark no distant time during which they had been occupied. Near them we found a pair of reindeer's horns and some fox traps, as well as some of the graves of the natives. Again the engineers were clearing the pipes, which were once more choked with coke dust ; and we had more reason to-day than ever to regret the ill performance of this wretched machine, TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?«S. 91 as to {jive us 3iild become ! engine any and killed a )w bunting. , and at the , about two it extending e there was od harbour lollke bay, >f this, ap- /enty yards seeming to ned Rosea the south- )urs which >• Behind he 22d as )re to the It we saw [>e on that ivhich had ' the frag- i towards The tide loon; but nd about l>etween "K recent lad been md some ere once 1 to-day nachine, since we might easily have made thirty miles, with one of the most moderate power. At midni|>ht the weather was thick and foggy. {Juffu.ft 28) Our hopes of proceeding on this day were disap- pointed by the wind coming to the eastward of north ; so that, du- ring the night, the ice was set in upon the land, and, among it, a large and heavy floe which impede' U passage. The thick weather which accompanied this change wouid indeed have been in itself a complete impediment, since, for want of the compass, all navigation is impossible under such circumstances. At one lime the ice appeared to be floating against the wind, which was light, and towards the north ; but as the breeze increased, it returned and floated to the southward. The sails were however loosed, and warps laid out, in expectation that the weather might so far clear up as to enable us to discover some channel : but the fog continued so dense the whole day, that at eight we gave up all hopes, and furled the sails. The wind in- deed now freshened so much, that we thought ourselves fortunate in not having started as we at first wished. We found it expedient in consequence to carry out some ropes, in order to secure the ship better to the bergs and the rocks. The wind after this veered a little more to the north; and as it was to be new moon the following day, we began to fear lest the icebergs should float and carry us farther up the bay, among the dangerous rocks and shoals which we had there seen. The tide rose three feet, the high water being exactly at noon and the ebb at six : the temperature of the air being 34", and that of the water 32°. Nevertheless the ice seemed to be dissolving fast around us, though some heavy floes were drifted into the mouth of the bay; yet giving us no uneasiness, as we were well protected by the grounded icebergs. As we would not venture on shore to-day, for fear of a change in our favour, it was employed in examining and preserving the spe- cimens in natural history that had been collected the day before. A ready method of cleansing the seal skins was found, by putting them overboard, where they were rendered free of every particle of flesh and blubber by the shrimps, in the course of a very short time. The seal's flesh, as before, turned out good, with very much of the flavour of the loons which we had shot in Davis's straii. !i si i 08 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY We hail lh« good fortune to recover a rifle which had fallen over- board iasl uifihl ; the clear water enabling; us to see it at the bottom, in the eleven feet sounding where we lay. { .luyust iJ9) It was high water this morning at two; being nearly at the change of the moon, which took place, at Greenwich time, at 9 A. M. The tide rose exactly six feet; having been but three feet six inches the preceding day, as, on the following, at half-past one, it was but twenty-two inches. This is a sufHcient proof of the irregularity of the tides in this strait; preventing all possibility of anticipating their extent and nature. Whatever other circumstances may be among the causes of this uncertainty, it seems plain that the northerly winds and currents make them come earlier and rise higher, and that the reverse happens in southerly winds. The ice in the offing was seen, during the flood, to move up and down, or both ways, even when there was no wind at all. This causes some difficulty in judging of the direction of the tides; but I still think that the flood must come from the northward, because the motion was always greatest towards the south when the wind was in that direction; as it was also gradually later in proceeding to the southward. At four in the morning the weatht3r was so clear that there seemed a chance of a passage through the pack of ice which had been driven on the coast during the night. We iherefore cast loose from the iceberg, and made sail ; yet could find no passage through on reach- ing it, and were compelled to tack. Rut we had run to the leeward so far, that we could not fetch any place of safely, and were there- fore obliged to warp back to the place we had left, which we reached at seven o'clock. Before noon it came to blow hard from the norlh-east, which set in the ice so thick on the shore, that not an interval of water could be seen. We therefore considered ourselves fortunate in having got back to our station ; disappointed »s we might be in having made no progress, llaining now once more, while it blew hard, we also once more hoped that the ice would feel the elfects, to our speedy profit. Though no clear water could be seen from the ship, we, however, obtained a view of a considerable tract in the offing, by ascending some of the higher ground on the shore. Seeing now that there was no chance of proceeding till the wind changed, an additional hawser was carried out to a rock for farther TO TDF AlCTIC REGIONS. »3 fallen ovei- t the bottom, being nearly vicli time, at lit three feet ilf-pasl one, )roof of llie ossibilily of •iMimstances lain that the t'r and rise ■ ove lip and t all. This ■ tides ; bnt 'd, because ti the wind proceeding jre seemed een driven ! from the on reach- e leeward ere there- e reached whieli set ter could n having ing made , we also r speedy hip, we, ffing, by he wind ' farther spnirify. in the evening; and found that the tide had r'mu 8< should be altogether drifted «»ui the bay. At sunset, however. appearance : yet this was of sli became cloudy, w ifh the w ind from the east , and hnd our first fall of snow. The gales became Ihrn ^ •T in the morning, after we han ',\i as o flonf the icebergs; h'st w< or !• ' Jeasf tc carried farther up he weal r had a more spftl<*«' ' dur.ilii It 8 ui afterw rds Hiidnigl we ly slron, rem the north-east, and the ice was packed close roun- the ouffci.U' of the bay; but the icebergs still defended us from its pre-tNure. The temperature of the air was 34", and that of the water 32". (Augvtit 30) During the night it blew a strong gale, but the tide rose only five feet six inches ; and as the icebergs did not move, the ship lay In perfect security. As it was high water half an hour earlier than on the preceding night, we had additional proof of the irregularity of the tides in ibis strait; caused, unquestionably, by the complicated action of the winds and the drifting ice. In the morning the hills were covered with snow ; a sight which was very far from agreeable, though we had no reason to expect aught else. Yet we had not mucli reason to complain, though we should even- tually have been stopped here ; since we had already penetrated farther, by a hundred and twenty miles, even during this very short summer of ours, than any previous expedition had done in two years. This being Sunday, was made a day of rest. The gale continued from the north-east the whole day, accom- panied by snow and sleel, the temperature of the air being at S^** and that of the sea at 32. Both the ebb and the flood had so diminished, that the difference was scarcely two feet : and we could now see that our little harbour was the only secure place on the coast, all the rest being closely beset by ice. But we still expected thai the wind would remove these fragments, and that we should be able to make some miles of progress before the winter should fairly set in. {August 31) This morning the land was entirely covered by snow, and there was no more of the usual blue colour to be seen. Once more the tide rose five feet and a half, and the ice was closely packed all round. As the day advanced the snow turned to sleet, and at length to a steady rain; the temperature of the air rising afterwards to 37". With this, the snow on the hills began to melt and disappear. Going on shore, a lane of water was found to have i i' " !lil 1:'^ 04 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT "-* If 1 ?r'l >'• t made its nppcarnnce in the south, and another in the east, while the ice hvi^nu also to slacken both to the northward and southward of our harbour. The rivers were found mucli swollen, but no animals were seen. This day the water only rose two feet and a half. {Sept. 1) At four in the morning;, as there appeared a possibi- lity of working the ship into clear water, she was hauled out to an iceberf^, and, by the aid of a north-north-west wind, we contrived to steer along the land in a south-east by south course. We passed outside the low island, and then bore up for the outermost point, though in constant doubt of our position, from the thickness of the weather and the frecpient changes of course we were obliged to make in working through the ice. But it cleared at seven, so as to show us the land, bearing from south 88" east to south, and also from south to south-south-west. It was the island which we had seen on the twentieth, but its distance proved to be much greater than we had then imagined. It was named Alicia Island. We kept under sail as long as we could, but were at last compelled, by the closing of the ice, to make fast to a large piece of it, which happened to be at hand. This, with the whole pack, proved to be drifting to the southward, and thus brought us nearer to the islands, though we were beating in the opposite direction. Towards evening it became moderate, and the ice seemed to have stopped. The rudder was therefore unshipped, and the Krusenstern placed in a secure situation, in case we should become permanently beset, as now ap- peared inevitable ; while I need not say that we were once more reduced to a state of utter helplessness. The temperature of the air was 56" in the day, but at night it fell to 34<'. The depth of water was 52 fathoms, and the distance from the nearest land three miles; but as we approached within two miles in drifting to the south- ward, it deepened to eighty fathoms. Some seals were seen, and an ivory gull was shot. {Sept. 2) By this morning the ship had drifted abreast of the highest part of that island which had been so long in sight ; which now, howevr, proved to be, not one island, as we had thought, but a rocky chain of islets extending in a south-east and north-west direction. The latitude was 70° 36', and the longitude 92° 6'; whence we found that we had made eleven miles to the south- ward. After noon the current changed, and the whole pack began TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 'H W .if;oin to drift to the south-east : clear w.iter was visiMe ahoiit three miles to the nor'.h, hut in no other direetion. The ishmds from which we werr now only two miles distant, presented the most iiarren and r.pulsive tract which we had yet seen; displaying an entire surface of dark and rugged rocks, without the least trace of vegetation, or the presence of even a hinl to enliven them. The clearness of the day allowed us to see some land which appeared to be about nine leagues off; and it was higher, as it seemed to us, than what we had passed before; while, in the intermediate space, were more of the rocky islands. The piece of ice to which we were now fast was about two acres in dimensions, and had a pond of fresh water, whence we reple- nished our stock; after which it was made a washing place for such articles as demanded this operation. Though the tem|M'rature of this day was only 40", the dogs were panting with heat, and seeking such shade as they could find on the rough ice. It h(»wever fell to 31" before eight o'clock, and finally to 29". The depth of water was here ninety-five fathoms. FAcept a small whale, no living animals were seen about this place. The snow had disappeared from this part of the land, with exception of a small quantity on the moun- tains in the extreme distance. In the evening it was calm, and we continued fast beset, but drifting to the southward with the whole pack. At midnight we sounded in a hundred and twenty fathoms, with a muddy bottom. {Sept. 3) The weather was thick ' ids morning, with light and variable winds, chiefly from the northward. The water shoaled to sixty-five fathoms, and then deepened to eighty. The ice was fast all round us, but appeared more slack towards the islands we had passed. In the afternoon the fog turned to small rain, the thermo- meter being at 36° ; and some clear weather in the evening dis- covered to us that we had made three miles farther south since yesterday. The sight of one bear and one seal was not enough to enliven this wearisome day. It appeared to us, at this point of our progress, that the large island whose aspect had so often changed, consisted in reality of three, which formed part of a rocky chain extending along the coast as far as we could see, and which, by stopping the ice, caused the difficulty of the inshore navigation. Thus we again found use for our patience : while, by following this chain in the «l '«t; 06 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m train of the ice, we trusted that we could always keep behind such heavy masses as would ground in time to prevent us from being wrecked or suffering any material injury. Heavy rain at midnight, with a shift of wind to the eastward, gave us some hopes of a change, though selling «s on the shore. {Sept. 4) As ihe wind. had shifted, during the night, to the east- south-east, we found this morning that we had drifted two miles to the northward, approaching towards the shore at the same time. It rained hard till nine, and the wind increased to a gale ; so that, by noon, we had drifted four miles farther in the same direction, being fixed between two floes, but so as to sustain no injury. Thick weather coming on at three, we saw the land no more, but were convinced by the lead that we were continuing to drive; and after various changes of soundings, found ourselves, by the evening, in one hundred and twenty fathoms, which diminished to seventy-five at midnight. The shooting of a glaucous gull, and of a seal, wnerethe only amusements of a provoking day, under which we were losing all the ground we had just been gaining, if not more. The gale continuing all night, with rain, the large floe separated from us very early in the morning {Sept. 15) ; and, as it became clear, we found that we had drifted off the land. Perceiving then that the whole pack had considerably slackened, we attempted, m consequence, to force through it towards the land, in spile of many heavy blows, which fortunately did no mischief. We here found that our latitude was 70° lio', and that we had lost nineteen miles in a northerly direction, together with fourteen miles in longi- tude, during the three hours which we had been driving with the ice. At five it cleared, and we saw, in the south-east, but at a greater distance, the never-ending island which, it almost seemed, we were destined not to quit. Forcing the ship through much heavy ice, we at last cleared the whole pack; when, the wind favouring us a little, we made up all the way that we had lost, and having again got hold of the land, made fast, at ten o'clock, to an iceberg aground in five fathoms, and about five hundred yards from the shore. It rained hard till midnight, but Avas nearly calm. We saw two whales on this evening, with several seals; and the water was clear between the pack and the shore, while we were surrounded ])y large icebergs. TO THE ARCTIC REGIOi\S. 07 {Sept. 6) The wind continued in the same quarter, with rainy weather, so that we could form no plan for proceeding. After di- vine service we went on shore to seek for a more secure harbour, as our present place was a very unsafe one. Entering an inlet with the boat, about a quarter of a mile wide, we sounded in fifteen fathoms; and, following it for a mile, we found it open into a spa- cious harbour, having twenty fathoms in the middle, and shoaling gradually to the sides. AVe here too ascertained that what we had taken for an island, the night before, was a peninsida. The harbour was named Elizabeth, in compliment to a sister of the patron of our expec'ition. The country consisted of limestone and granite, resembling what we had formerly examined. A herd of reindeer passed at a suffi- cient distance to make us waste some shot, if not to tantalize us, as we proceeded to ascend the hill to the southward. Hence we had a perfect view of a harbour not exceeded by any in the world ; be- fore this, we had not been able to form a just estimate of its extent or nature. The pursuit of some hares* which we saw, did not. bow- ever, tempt us to prolong our stay, since we could discover that the ice was drifting fast upon us. I'li Trf ifc 'n CHAPTER X. ATTEMPT TO QUIT ELIZABETH HARBOUR— SLOW PROGRESS ALO^fft SHORE— CRITICAL POSITION OF THE SHIP AMONG THE ICE, AND ESCAPE THROUGH PERILOUS PASSAGE— DISCOVERY OF ECLIPSE HARBOUR— FARTHER DISCOVERIES— GAPE ST. CATHERINE, AND LAX HARBOUR. "T Having returned onboard by two o'clock, we made sail there- fore from the iceberg, and entering into the harbour, moored the ship to a small one in seven fathoms, not far from the beach. A boat was then dispatched to see if there was any exit on the southern or eastern side; but the result was, that we had entered by the only Mii^' 98 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY h ' ! »< ^^i P opening, as it was also found that it was separated from the strait without, by a narrow range of limestone about three miles long, level and straight. The boundary to the westward was of high land, and that to the north consisted of lower hills interspersed with lakes containing fish : the rocky point and peninsula where we had first taken possession forming its eastern side. The granite here presented many varieties, and was studded with garnets, pro- bably in the veins, which we did not take sufficient care to distin- guish at the time. I now indeed suspect, that on this and other occasions, what I have termed granite was gneiss; a mistake which is often easily made by those who are not practised mineralogists ; but as I could not collect specimens at every place that was visited, and as I could not bring home even all those which were collected, for future examination, this very unimportant error, if such it be, must remain. In the evening, landing at the north side, and ascending the heights in that quarter, we obtained a still better view of this splendid harbour, in which the whole British navy might safely ride. Except at the edges, it was clear of ice, though a few ice- bergs seemed, like ourselves, to have taken refuge here; but we saw no marks of any shoals or rocks within it. In many parts there were five fathoms water close to rocks on the shore, where vessels might lie as at a pier, and where they might also heave down and repair damages ; and, from marks on the margin, we judged that there were eight feet of rise at spring tides; the present, which was neap, rising but four. {Sept. 7) In the evening it blew hard from the northward, bring- ing the ice past the place which we had left, and packing up the whole channel to the southward. But we were safe, and quiet; with the security that if this ice should clear away, we could easily get out by aid of the tide, and take advantage of the opening. The temperature of the air was from 34" to 3a", and that of the water 32°. At midnight there was rain, the wind continuing fresh. It rained heavily all the morning, and a good deal of small ice drifted into the harbour, proving that there was a considerable quantity moving along the strait with the current. We therefore proceeded in the boat, to examine into the condition of things out- side, more particularly, and landed on the northern isthmus. We thus saw, that at the back of the great isthmus, the quantity of ice I I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS eo m the strait miles long, vas of high nterspersed sula where The granite rnets, pro- 2 to distin- and other take which leralogists ; vas visited, e collected, such it be, ending the nv of this ight safely a few ice- e; but we lany parts re, where eave down wc judged ::nt, which rd, briiig- ig up the tid quiet; idd easily ng. The he water sh. small ice siderable therefore ngs out- US. AVe ly of ice fr was much diminished since the preceding day, while there was a bay to the eastward quite clear; but, near the mainland, it was still closely packed. The west side of the southern islands, however, was nlso clear of ice. In this excursion we saw some rein-deer, and 4iot three white hares. The air felt warm; but, on board, the thermometer was only 3G", the weather being calm, with a thick fog. {September 8) Though things remained in the same state till noon, we expected a wind, and therefore left the harbour by means of the ebb and of towing; making fast to an iceberg at the entrance, that we might be ready. But the wind coming now from the south- south-east, we could proceed no farther, and I therefore sent a parly to examine the stale of things along shore, in the whale boat, which was, however, obliged to slop after [)roceeding tw o miles. Being then hauled up, the parly proceeded by land along the isthmus, and thus saw that the ice was closed up to a rock at its termination, so as to prevent all farther passage in this direction. Two rocky islands and a good harbour were also seen in this quarter ; as it was farther ascertained, that while the shore was covered with heavy ice, the channel of moving ice and water lay between it and the heavy pack which was about three miles ofF. The evening being calm, and the ice stationary, Commander Ross went on shore to take angles, and in his way found a dead deer, which we had wounded on our first landing. It was so large that they could only bring on board the head and horns, leaving it for the next day to remove a carcase too valuable to be lost. 31en were also sent to erect a cairn of stones to mark the entrance of the har- bour, otherwise difficidt to find, in case we should be obliged to return to it. Landing, myself, afterwards, I obtained a good view, from the north side, of the several places that we had passed, kill- ing also two hares. At eight the wind was light, and southerly, with clear weather in the night, the temperature of the air from 34" to 36", and that of the water 32". Our fresh water was replenished, and many seals were seen. The geological structure of this part of the coast exactly resembled what we had formerly examined, with perhaps more varieties of granite, or gneiss; the whitish shale of the limestone containing shells as before. The soundings were in clay so tough as to re- quire great force to extract the lead from it. Some sandstone w as p T m 100 SECOAD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY also observed here; and in many of the small bays there were ac- cuuiulalions of white sand, which, however, niip.ht eqnally have been furnished l)y the granite. There was no wood : a heath, with stems about an inch thick, being the largest j)lant growing. Near the sea the land was generally bare ; but, inland, there were plains and valleys of considerable extent, covered with vegetation; each of the latter containing a lake, of which the largest seemed about two miles long, as many of them were but large pools. These, as l»efore, were full of fish, which we then had no i.ieans of taking. IMany hares, far from shy, were concealed among the rocks, and tracks of reindeer were seen near the shore. On the north side the remains of Esquimaux summer habilations were numerous, together with fox-traps and bones of whales; but all of so old a date as to show that it was long since this part of the shore had been in- habited. {September 9) It was quite calm all this day, with an occasional light air from the southward, sufficient, with the current, to prevent us from making any progress. Notwithstanding this, we hauled still farther oul, to be in readiness in case of a favourable change. It froze so hard in the previous night, that the harbour was covered with bay ice; insomuch that the whale boat which had been sent for the deer could scarcely make her way through it. Towards evening, however, it was all dissolved, as was that which had been formed in the lakes. Even at three o'clock it was like a summer's day in England; and, though close to the icebergs, the temperature on board w as 38", while on shore it was 41°. This, indeed, had an unfortunate effect on our deer, which, though but three days killed, was only fit for the dogs. AVe here built a cairn on the highest hill on the north side of the harbour. ( September 10) A slight breeze coming from the north-wes A daylight, we left the iceberg at half-past three, and stood out among the loose ice under all sail; steering through various lanes and openings which led towards the south-east. But at two o'clock the wind came directly against us; and it was with much difficulty we reached an iceberg w hich was aground about half a mile eastward of the islands described on the second of September, and about eight miles from our last station. After two hours, however, the ice set in with such rapidity, that we were obliged to cast off, when a more favourable breeze enabled us to reach a small harbour in the passage % 4 i m M *e were ac- tually have lealh, with ing. Near vere plains ition; each med about These, as of taking, rocks, and th side the s, top,elher date as to d been in- occasional to prevent ^ve hauled le change, as covered been sent Towards had been summer's nperature d, had an ys killed, e highest h-wes ^t ut among anes and clock the culty we eastward out eight le ice set n a more ? passage TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 101 between the islands and the main, whence we were able to warp into a situation for the ni^jht. Thus we were enabled to land on the islands ; and, having ascended the highest summit near us, we had a good view of the state of the ice, which was such as to make us resolve to attempt a passage bclwecu the rocky islands and the point, so as to get hold of the mainland. The ship was therefore warped, with much toil and linzard, tlirough a narrow and rocky sound leading to the channel, and made fast to an iceberg, and to the rocks, from which she was not more than half her length distant, in three fathoms water. It w:is not, however, a good place; since the ice set both ways, al- ternately, with great rapidity, so as to be in constant motion. Angles were here taken from a cairn which we erected on the highest hill, being about three hundred feet, and sketches made. The farthest projecting land was an island bearing south-east, at a considerable distance from the point of the mainland. The outer- most of the islands on which we were seemed about a mile long, and the land formed a great bay, in which we counted nine islands and some clusters of islets; together with two inlets, and some openings that seemed to constitute three good harbours. Here we also concluded that our best chance of proceeding appeared to be by the channel within these islands, and close to the mainland ; as the ice was all broken up, though thick and heavy, and was likely to move with the first favourable wind. The islands on which we now were, turned out to consist of gneiss, I presume, disposed in inclined beds with vertical fissures :. and in two little valleys there was some vegetation, though the greater part of the surface was quite bare. The aspect of desolation wasjndeed extreme; nor did we see the trace of any living creature. The temperature of the air was 34", and that of the water 31". {Sept. 11) Our iceberg floated last night at half-past twelve; but we at last succeeded in mooring it, together with ourselves, to the rocks within a small bight on the side of the stream ; while, as it drew more water than the ship, it l^ept us from grounding; allow- ing us to lie (piiet all night within a few yards of the rocks, and in three fathoms water. After a foggy morning, there apj^eared, at one, some chance of moving, as there was a fresh breeze from the north-west. The attempt, however, was made in vain; and, after three hours of hard labour, we could neither proceed, nor extricate 'p !'*• :i: 102 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I'' I A'!' the ship, so that wc were oblijjed to siiljmit ourselves to the ice. which was now closely packed in the whole channel which it occu- pied. It was in vain that we attempted to disengage ourselves, even when it got into motion ; labouring hard for this purpose till ten o'ch)ck : but a calm occurring at midnight, we became compa- ratively tranquil and easy. {Sppt. 12) Nevertheless it was a critical position, beset in the rapid current of a rocky channel, at the spring tides of the autumnal equinox ; and, as the tide rose, the heavy masses of ice which were set afloat increased our danger, its action forcing them on us. We therefore thought ourselves lucky in getting hold of a grounded iceberg; though the points of rocks were appearing all around, and close by our ship. Unfortunately, however, a wind springing up from the westward, brought down an additional quantity of ice, before daylight, with a great increase of pressure; when the whole mass began to move to the eastward with frightful rapidity, carrying along with it our helpless ship, and amidst a collision and noise, from the breaking of the ice against the rocks, which was truly awful. The day had scarcely dawned when we found ourselves near to a point separating two channels; and it was for some time doubtful into which we should be hiuried, or whether we might not rather be driven on the rocks which surrounded us on all sides, some below the water and some above it. But our good fortune prevailed ; and the stream carried us into the northernmost and widest passage ; though it was to the rorth-eastward, and therefore, otherwise, to our loss. And here, to complete our success, such as it was, the ice shortly opened, so as to allow us to extricate the ship, though by extraordinary exertions ; on which, making her fast to a ground- ed iceberg, we found ourselves near the point on the north side of this channel, and felt ourselves thus secure for a time. During the night, and especially when contesting our way to this spot, the ship had been repeatedly raised, and sometimes heeled over, by the pressure; while the Krusenstern was once thrown out of the water, on the ice. But neither received any injury. We had reason to be surprised : but every new adventure of this kind had the good effect of increasing our confidence, in the case of future and similar emergencies; of which, it was but too certain, there were many yet before us. i '•'WfSj TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?fS. ni:>. At nine, the change of tide, and that a rapid one, selling to the westward, drove ns from onr phicc of refuj^e ; and we were carrieil within three yards of some roeks which were jnst under water, at the narrowest part of the point. IJelievinjj that we might succeed in rounding this place, and thus getting into what seemed to be still water, we laboured hard by warping; there being a small creek im- uiediately beyond it which held out a promise of security. This, most unluckily, ])roved to be a whirlpool : and having been turned round by it many times, for more than an hour, we were obliged to leave it, and trust ourselves once more to the confusion without. Thus situated, no resource was left but to attach ourselves to a mass of ice which was floating along in the middle of the stream ; hoping thus to escape a repetition of what we had just been en- during. ^^ e were thus at length extricated, but j\ol without undergoing heavy pressure ; our iceberg carrying us to the westward, even against a strong wind. The tide, however, diminished in force as we proceeded; and as the smaller pieces of ice now sailing with us did not drift so fast as that to which we were attached, the whoh; became at length so slack that we were able to make sail before noon, and at last got into clear water. The danger, however, was not yet over ; since we were subject to be carried back by the next tide, unless we could get out of its in- fluence before the change. But the wind was right against us, and we could expect to make little progress with our sails, and such a vessel, by plying to windward ; while, to anchor in a tideway like this, was out of the question. Thus we soon found that we were losing ground; but at four o'clock we began to gain considerably, when it fell suddenly calm. A harbour now appearing not far off, in the nearest land, we contrived to warp into it by means of the boats, and found good shelter behind a reef of rocks, lined by icebergs, within a cable's length of the shore; making fast^to two of these masses which were aground in four fathoms water. More than I among us had witnessed similar scenes, and, in some manner or other, we had been extricated : but, with all this, we could not but feel astonishment, as well as gratitude, at our having escaped here without material damage. For readers, it is unfor- tunate that no description can convey an idea of a scene of this nature : and, as to the pencil, it cannot represent motion, or noise. i; t I I lUt SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY W(r ki Ami lo those who have not seen a northern ocean in winter— who have not setn it, I should say, in a winter's storm— the term ice, exciting but the recollection of what they only know at rest, in an inland lake or canal, conveys no ideas of what it is the fate of an arctic navigator to witness and to feel. But let them remember that ice is stone; a floating rock in the stream, a promontory or an island when aground, not less sohd than if it were a land of granite. Then let them imagine, if they can, these mountains of crystal hurled through a narrow strait by a rapid tide ; meeting, as moun- tains in motion would meet, with the noise of thunder, breaking from each other's i)recipices huge fragments, or rending each other asunder, till, losing the former equilibrium, they fall over headlong, lifting the sea around in breakers, and whirling it in eddies; while the flatter fields of ice, forced against these masses, or against the rocks, by the wind and the stream, rise out of the sea till they fall back on themselves, adding to the indescribable commotion and noise which attend these occurrences. It is not a little, too, to know and to feel our utter helplessness in these cases. There is not a moment in which it can be conjec- tured w hat will happen in the next : there is not one which may not be the last; and yet that next moment may bring rescue and safety. It is a strange, as it is an anxious position; and, if fearful, often giving no time for fear, so unexpected is every event, and so quick the transitions. If the noise, and the motion, and the hurry in every thing around, are distracting, if the attention is troubled to fix on anything amid such confusion, still must it be alive, that it may seize on the single moment of help or escape which may occur. Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there is nothing to be acted, no elfort to be made : and though the very sight of the movement around inclines the seaman to be himself busy, while we can scarcely repress the instinct that directs us to help ourselves in cases of danger, he must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless; waiting as he best can for the fate, be it what it may, which he cannot influence or avoid. But I must not here forget the debts we owed to our ship on this as on other occasions before and afterwards. Her light draught of water was of the greatest advantage ; and still more the admira- ble manner in which she had been strengthened. It is plain that either of the ships employed on the former expeditions must have 4 1 I TO TOE ARCTIC UEGIONS. /' -! it)( been here lost, from their mere ilranght of wat(M\ since they would have struck on the rocks over which we were hurried hy the ice; while, however fortified, they would have been crushed like a nutshell, in conseijuence of their sliape. Our position, after this adventure, was on the mainland, sevfu miles from the cairn which wc had erected on the tenth ; being not far from two harbours, one on each side of us; which I named. The night was clear, and it began to freeze at eleven. At niiil- night there was a visible eclipse of the moon, but the weather did not permit of any observations. 1 named the place Eclipse harbour; and we found high water, with a rise of seven feet, at a quarter be- fore three, at full moon. [Sept. 13) Early in the morning I ascended the high land near the shore, by which I found that it was possible to proceed a few- miles along the coast: and, after building a cairn and taking jomc angles, I returned on board, and we got under way at nine with a westerly breeze. We steered to the southward through new ice which offered little resistance; and, as we proceeded, the heavy masses became more slack. Passing a rugged point, with icebergs aground, it received the name of Cape Allington, being the boundary here, of the spacious harbour just mentioned by the name of Eclij)se Harbour. We very soon rounded a cluster of islets, which, as ecpially ntw. I named Grace; and, passing them, we saw a round island, now also named Louisa. Within these, such channel as there seemed, was full of ice; and therefore, passing to the eastward, we ap- proached, at three o'clock, a smooth rocky island about two miles in circumference. It being calm, we attempted to tow the ship between it and the preceding ones; when the tide changed, and we were glad to secure ourselves for the night to an iceberg that was aground near it, w hich formed a snug harbour with an islet w ith which it was in contact. This island was three miles from Eclipse harbour, and seven from iheextremityof the land to the southward. On inspection, wc found it a solid mass of granite intersected by veins; and we also observed fragments of limestone and of yellow sandstone. Here we built a cairn, with a pole on which was fastened the ship's name, and the date, engraved on copper. The prospect was such as to show us that a fair wind might carry us clear of the ice as far as that point 7.. " J it i lOfl SECO?(D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY u ^u m ;i fi which srcmod seven miles olf : hnt lieyond Ihis wc coiihl barely discern lliat the IcUid did iiul trend \o the eastward. An island was seen, op<'n with the eape ; and, near this, a harbour, which was named I^ax Island, while, to a larj;e inlet, full of ice, south of this, I gave the name of Mary Jones Hay. On the south side there were smaller inlets and creeks; and, to the north, a remarkable mountain, shaped likt; a tomb, and covered on the south side with a reddish vejjelation. It was named Chris- tian's monument. Proceediuj; alon{; the coast, we found an Ks- (juimaux fox-trap, with some remains of summer habitations, and <:ounled thirty-three islands of dilFerent sizes, for the names of which I must here refer to the charts and the tables. The vejjela- tion on Ihis island, which is in the middle of the bay, was very backward compared to that on the mainland. The new ice had totally dissolved this day; the temperature of the air being 58", and that of the sea 3:2". There was now no snow on the hi[]h mountains of the interior to the southward, and all the fresh-water lakes and pools were open. In the evening the wind came from the south-south-east, and thus prevented us from moving : w liile the water fell so low as to compel us to haul farther out. {Sept. H) It was high water soon after one in the morning, and the tide rose to six feet eight inches, with the flood from the north- ward. The two icebergs to which we were moored just floated; but we kept them fast to the shore by ropes until the tide 'md lowered. A thick fog prevented us from moving till two; when, the wintl being north-north-west, we made all sail and stood for the point through loose ice, which, however, soon closed, so as to oblige us to run for a small bay to the north of the cape. This proved a very good shelter: and having gone on shore, and ascended the hill on the point, we saw that the ice was still more open than it had been the day before, that the land trended more to the southward, and that the outermost portion was but an island, six or seven miles from the mainland. 3Iany fine harbours were also visible, and the shore was intersected by inlets in every direc- tion. Having taken the usual formal possession of this cape, since even that which is nugatory or absurd must be done where custom dictates, a cairn and a beacon were erected, with the ship's name, and the date, on a plate of copper, as before. This cape was named pi # f TO THE ARCTIC I\EGrO?erature of V no snow il, and all ening the I us from lul farther ning, and he north- t floated ; tide -lad ; when, stood for so as to lore, and till more more to 1 island, rs were y direc- )e, since custom s name, s named Verner, and the harhour Joanna. The geology was here nearly what it iiad all along heen : hut one of the masses of granite formed a pyramid alike striking from its forn* and its dimensions, while we also j)ereeived some coarse argillaceous schist. As the point on the north side of the harhour was the most con- venient I'orohscrvalion, we erected a cairn here also, for determin- ing angles and laying down positions; though it was not likely to prove of much use hereafter in verifying the accuracy of the disco- verers. Just hefore dark, the channel helween the shore and a small island was cleared of ice hy the rapidity of the ehh : hut too late to allow us to attempt our way through it. The temperature of the air was from ."):>■' to 3G", and that of the sea from ol" to oii" all this day; and the tide rose two feet less than it had done in the night preceding. No animals, nor any traces of Esquimaux were seen . CHAPTER XI. A UE.VVY GALE : SUCCESSION OF TEMPESTUOUS WEVTIIEK, WITH SXnV— IWKTIAL CLEARING OF THE ICE, AND EXTRICATION FUOM IT— DISCOVER THE ISLAND OF ANDREW ROSS, CAPE MARGARET. liEST HARKOUR, AND 31ART1N ISLANDS — A NEW BAY — END 01 SEPTEMIIER— GENERAL REMARKS OX THE PAST PROGRESS OF THE SHIP AND THE MODE OF NAVIGATING AMONG ICE. [September V6) The sky had worn a very unsettled aspect {»n the preceding evening; and the wind, rising, increased to a storm duriLg the night. Having also veered round to the northward, it hrouglit around us a great quantity of heavy ice ; so that, at daylight, we found ourselves completely locked in, to our no small vexation, w hich was much augmented hy seeing clear water within a quarter of a mile. Every exertion was made to warp out, or to extricate ourselves in some manner : but a whole forenoon of hard labour gained us scarcely more than four times the length of our ship. At >, t HH SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■^H m ' 4f V I k'liijlli llio ice nrcimiiilaloil to such a ileijree, Uial we were obliged to alwiii«loii the atl('ii)|it. in tlu; meat) time (Ik; storm increased, with sqnalis of snow, so as to render our situation both critical and uncomfortable; since we <-()idd not rei;ain the harbour which we had so prematurely left. Thus exposed to the storm, the pressure of the ice was also to be f.arcd, as the icebergs were accumulating on the shores of the cape, which they were too dee[> to pass. At length the one to w hich we were moored w(!nt afloat, giving us much trouble : while the largest one near us split into six pieces, with a noise like thun- der; falling over and throwing up the water all around. One of these fragments gave our ship a violent shock ; and another, rising up beneath the Krusenstern, lifted her out of the water on the ice, and then launched her oif again. Fortunately, no damage was sustained. The night tide was farther diminished, and we continued, after this last adventure, to be not far from the point of the cape behind which was the clear waler : while we were obliged to wait with pa- tience for some favourable change of the wind. The thermometer was at 34", and the snow was so heavy as to cover the mountains. A i)arty was sent to the cairn, to examine into the state of the ice, and, having returned, they reported it to be quite closed to the southward, with exception of a narrow lane of water along the land, which now appeared to trend more to the southward. Shortly, the temperature fell to 28", with clearer weather and the barometer rising. The latitude of this cape was found to be 70" 22'. and the longitude 92" lo', which, with the correction, is probably 91". (September 16) The wind was somewhat more moderate this day, and the weather milder; but the ice was quite close every w here, excepting for a small space on the south side of the cape. AVe went on shore to survey the channel through which we had intended to pass ; when we saw that there were two reefs of rocks in the middle of it. It was a lesson to our impatience; as it was one among many incidents occurring in this voyage, calculated to teach us that apparent misfortunes are often benefits. Had we been but ten minutes sooner, we should have made the attempt; and, without a miracle, the consequences must have been fatal. Of this, we could entertain no doubt, when we saw that their depth would then have been six feet, enough to conceal them from us, while, on TO Tilt ARCTIC REGIONS. i(;u lakinp, llie i;roiiii(l, \vc should have Im'cii ovrrwhrlriKul hy Ihe des- ('(iidiiit; masses of ice. Thus was our disa|ipoiiilniciit coiiviTlcd jnio a source of enjoyment, aud of self i;ratulatioii : >vith the same kiiowIed|;e on the day before, we should have lhou|;hl our iey jtrison a paradise. A liltle helore noon, the wind shifted sutldenly to the south-east, nnd i)lew' a (;ale; while we had iu the mean time moored to the largest floe in the passaiye, that we mit;ht he rea*ly in case of any favourable chance. In conse(|uence of this reversal ol the wind, the ice be[;an to move in the o|>posite direction to what we had expected : so that we were glail to reijain our position in the bay, though this was not effected without several hours of warpini;. (ioiufj on shore in the eveninjj, we had the satisfaction of seeing that the ice was fast leaving the land, and that it would probably allow us to try again in the morning, w ith the probability of making]; ten or lifleen miles. We here found that the fine harbour to the south of the cape had an entrance from a bay to the southward, and also another from one to the northward, rendering the cape itself an island. The channel was narrow and crooked, and sin- gularly intersected by the projections of hilly points on both sides, with inlets branching in every direelion. The harbour was clear of ice, and contained three inlets. We here saw three hares. The observations at noon confirmed yesterday's latitude. The thermometer in the twenty-four hours, varied from 30" to 31", the water being at 29"; and there was new ice in the pools among the rocks on shore. A arious bearings were taken; and we thought that the land trended less to the cast than we had formerly sup- posed; rendering it a matter of hope, rather than of aught else, that we had now arrived at the south-eastern extremity of this land. At ten at niglit the wind suddenly changed to the north-west, and blew with increased violence ; when, once more, the ice which had not yet cleared the bay, closed in upon our protecting icebergs, forcing us to carry out additional ropes, both to them and the shore. The Krusenstern was transported to a place of safety in the inner- most harbour; and, during the night, it blew extremely hard, with 8(pialls of snow; the thermometer falling to 21" in the air, and 23° in the water. AVe had therefore, once more, great reason to be thankful that we had not been able to get out of this haven, where the heavy masses of ice around us afforded very tolerable security, 5 \ 'I I ii i>r; "■■ ' 110 SECOnD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ^:iy' i since (liry were aground on all sides, and exerted no pressure against us. {Septefiibe?- 17) The gale continued with undiminished fury from the northward quarter, accompanied hy heavy squalls of snow ; and the sea froze as it washed over our decks and the adjoining icebergs. The outer edge of the ice to windward was but a mile from us; and, on this as well as the islands, the sea broke in a tremendous manner, proilucinga considerable swell, even where we lay, though sheltered by a point of land and this extensive tract of ice. The thermometer in the air fell to 21", and the water to about 28°; and though the tide rose high, the icebergs did not float. In the evening the ice broke up so much as to bring the open water a quarter of a mile nearer to us; and, in no long time, the wind became more moderate : while some masses of ice were seen floating through the channel of our intended passage, which displayed a good deal of clear water. {Spptcinbe?' 18) The moderating of the wind on the preceding evening was but a delusive promise. In the night, the gale increased once more; and to a degree of violence exceeding all that we had yet felt, accompanied, as before, by snow. As some of the icebergs began to move, three large masses came across our bows, threaten- ing to break the two cables which we had made fast to the rocks, and obliging us to carry out a third. The ice on the outside of us was soon broken up by the swell, and at daybreak the waves reached within a quarter of a mile of the ship : while the motion of the solid masses around produced such an agitation in her as to compel us to carry out steadying ropes and fenders. In consequence of the tide now rising to an unusual height, many icebergs drove near to the shore ; but as that fell, things became comparatively quiet : though the rapid destruction of the ice, under all the present violence, gave us great alarm lest we should lose the protection which had hitherto sheltered us so well. At ten in the morning, therefore, we went on shore, in hopes of obtaining a better view of the circumstances in which we were now engaged ; the wind having once more moderated. We thus discovered that there was nothing to obstruct our passage as soon as wt should be released from our present durance, and that although there was much ice in the harbour, it was not such as to prevent our entrance, 1 .( TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. Ill ';* pressure 1 fury from snow ; and g icebergs. from us; "emendous ay, though ice. The t 28° ; and he evening iiarter of a a me more irough the od deal of preceding : increased at we had le icebergs Ihreaten- he rocks, side of us ;s reached f thesohd ipel us to ht, many became e, under 1 lose the en in the aining a engaged ; sred that 3 should h there Tnt our ^0 We here confirmed our former observations for the latitude : and the barometer rose ; as also did the thermometer, from 21'* to 28". The moulding of ice collected round the sides of the ship drifted off in consequence, during the course of the day, as did the icicles which had been formed on the icebergs. It still, however, blew hard : the sea continued to draw nearer to us, and the agitation was scarce! less ; so (hat the motion of the ship was extremely troublesome. Our situation thus became so hazardous that we were about to seek a new position, close to the rocks; when, suddenly, we saw a Meet of heavy ice islands bearing down on us, which, by five o'clock, took their stations at the outer edge of the now narrow field, and, in a very short !ime, all was quiet. Such is the ice, and such the compensation it offers for the too frequent assaults which it makes, and the obstructions which it creates. It is far from being an unmixed evil; and, estimating all our adventures with and among it, I might not be wrong in saying, that it had much oftener been our friend than our enemy. We could not, indeed, command the icebergs to tow us along, to arrange themselves about us so as to give us smooth water in the midst of a raging sea, nor, when we were in want of a harbour, to come to our assistance and surround us with piers of crystal, executing, in a few minutes, works as effectual as the breakwaters of Plymouth or Cherbourg. But they were commanded by Him who commands all things, and they obeyed. {September 19) The gale continued, though with somewhat less violence ; nor, even towards night, was there any announcement of a change. We were safe within the large pack which had accu- mulated, and could now see additional masses of blue ice attached to its outer edge; the sea breaking high over them, in a tremendous manner. I therefore went on shore, and, having a good place for such a record, caused the ship's name and the date to be painted on the pyramidal rock formerly described : ascertaining the latitude at 70" 25', and the longitude at 91". No immediate hope of removal was held out by the slate of the ice as we now saw it from the land ; but there was very little snow on the ground, after all that appeared to have fallen, and the temperature was from 215° to 27". How much of the disappearance of this snow, on this, as on many sub- sequent occasions, arose from the mere sweeping force of the wind, we could not determine; but we had often, in this region, abun- 13 V iii >\ iii 112 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1« M"; 'k ■t I f '1 .'■■ ' I w ilanl proof of the great evaporation which it undergoes, even at very low temperatures ; confirming a fact respecting the production of vapour, which has long been known to meteorology. In no other way indeed could we account for the small thickness of snow which generally remained to be converted into water, by the common process of thawing, at the approach of spring ; since its hard frozen surface very widely prevented the gales from dispersing it in the form of drift, while we were quite sure that a much larger quantity had accumulated during the winter than that which remained when the thaw commenced. On the utility of this arrangement in dimi- nishing the great flow of water which would otherwise take place at that period, I need make no remarks. {September 20) It was comparatively moderate during the night, with the same wind, but no snow. At daylight a large pack of ice was seen approaching the bay, when it divided : one portion passing to the eastward of us, while the rest closed in, so as, in a few hours, to block us up more completely than we had ever yet been. After divine service, the crew were allowed such relaxation on shore as they could contrive in such a place ; and the view hence still showed some clear water to the southward; attainable, if we could but obtain a westerly wind. The thermometer was at 27°, but there was no new ice in the harbour, although the land pools w'cre frozen over. In the evening the swell subsided every where, and at 'n;" night it was calm and freezing hard; but the ice did not open, . we hoped it might do on the ebb. [Soptemher 21 ) This ice still appeared stationary, there being a light air from iiic north; and, on examination, we found that the huge masses around us were frozen together, giving us the prospect of being condemned to remain here for the rest of the winter. But the breeze becoming westerly at nine o'clock, all hands were set to work, and continued occupied the whol^ day in separating the masses which had been cemented by the frost, since this afforded us the only chance of getting clear. This being done, we placed the ship's head in the best position for getting out; and, after this, she was soon surrounded by new ice, the thermometer being at 25°. {September 22) A strong breeze arose during the night ; and, at daylight, we found that, with the exception of two pieces, it had carried away all the ice that we had cut, while the water was clear ft; •f ? ^ • TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 113 outside. Wc again, therefore, set all hands to work in breaking llie ice that remained, soon detaching many large pieces, which the tide carried away. The work, however, became more heavy as we proceeded ; so that the last cuts through a thick floe were not com- j)leted till the evening. At this time a large mass to the eastward of us broke away, promising to sail off and assist in clearing us, when, unfortunately, it took the ground and remained fixed; and, still more vexatiously, just opposite to the channel which we were attempting to clear. Thus we were obliged to make a new attempt at another point; appealing again to that patience, and exerting once more that determination not to be foiled, which, for ever wanted under every situation in life, are never more needed than by him who must work his way through the never ending, ever renewed, obstruc- tions of an icy sea. By the time it was dark, we had completely succeeded, and had once more the satisfaction of finding ourselves in clear water; when we hove out beyond the icebergs, and made fust for the night to thatfioe which we had cut into the resemblance of a pier. Soon after this it began to blow hard from the south- ward, and the ice which had passed by was seen returning; pro- ducing, once more, a new enigma to be solved, as it threatened us again with a repetition of what wc had been so often and so long undergoing. It became necessary therefore to go on shore, that we might the better understand how matters were likely to be with us now ; since our position in the ship was not sufficiently commcn'.iing to allow of an adequate view. We thus found that the circumstan- ces were even worse than we had anticipated ; since we could not even get round to the good harbour which we had occupied before, until the weather should moderate. There was also seen some new ice, the thermometer being at 2:2", and thence to 26". By the lime, however, that we had returned to the ship, the wind fortu- nately rose from the very cpiartcr that we desirerate, would induced to ther discou- the passa{je nn lo abate, better pros- e, when we )locked up, hisi nduced ry intricate he ship out stijjated the in carryinrj I rapid tide lole of this Ued in an on stand- we might ir favour, to work cached the ence, the )cky, and here also I land oil uU of ice. to be an hich was I to force with the ttempted re vented e island, ty yards indeed, from being a safe place, and, in an easterly wind, would have been a hazardous one : but, after much examination, we could find nothing better, and were obliged lo be content. The snow con- tinued the whole day, but was not such as to prevent us from seeing lo distances of Iwo or three miles : Ihe temperature of the air rose from 20" lo 3:2", but ihe barometer fell half an inch. Ry our reckoning, we had made about fourteen miles : an unexpected pro- gress, which put us all into high spirits, and made us anxious for the return of another day. {Sc'pt. 24) Though the weather had been moderate during the night, the Hood tide set in with great rapidity, and the iceberg lo which we were fast received so many severe blows from the Hoating masses, that we began lo suspect it would itself be carried off at high water. An alarm lo this effect was indeed given : but, on exa- mination, we found that it was the vessel which had sheered ; on which she was moored to Ihe rocks. The wind, which had been gradually changing during the night, became south-east at daylight; and we could then see from the island, that Ihe ice was fast closing on us : so as to give us timely warning to quit a place where it was impossible to remain long with safety. We therefore made sail; and, passing lo the eastward of the island, found a channel through which the tide was running with a moderate velocity. We Ihen sent the boats lo examine into this apparent harbour, and to select a place where we could make fast : but it was soon discovered that there was only a reef of rocks, so that we were obliged to moor to a large iceberg, within a few yards of the shore, and not far from a shallow entrance opening to the south-east. As soon as the men had breakfasted, we prepared to remove again, when thp boat should have found a better position. Sud- denly, however, the ice turned round; and, before we could pre- vent it, the ship's bow was carried on the rocks with such violence, that it was raised eighteen inches. But as, at this time, the ice grounded again, no farther assault was made on her : and by means of hawsers, she was soon got off, without having sustained any damage. The breeze then freshening, the sails were set, enabling us to stand out with the intention of lying to while we wailed the report of the boat. But our success was very small ; since after running half a mile, with great difficulty, through rocks and icebergs, the situation I ■i 1 I?. I, I IIG SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY -' ik i I: II ft m.j'i 11 which we attained, and did not {;ain without much toil and hazard, was found to be Utile better than that which we had left. It had but ten feet water ; and we saw that we should not be able to haul out of the stream before the ship had arrived within her own breadth of some rocks that rose above the water; while her stern lay close to others that were not six feet beneath the surface. We therefore proceeded in the whale boat to seek for a belter place, for which the now increasing wind made us more anxious ; and thus succeeded in finding an excellent deep-water channel between the mainland and the first range of islands. The entrance, however, seemed extremely hazardous; being scarcely wider than the ship herself, wilh a tongue of ice, having only seven feet water on it, extending across, from side to side. There was, however, neither a choice to make nor time to be spared in resolving. We therefore dropped the ship down by hawsers, grazing the rocks with our keel. How to carry her over the tongue was another problem, seeing that her draught exceeded its depth; but, while considering this, the tide swept her on it, and she stuck fast; it having proved, contrary to our reckoning, that it was now ebb. The hawsers were then carried out again, and we contrived to heave through; yet not without sawing olf some pro- jecting points on the two opposite Icebergs, so narrow was the pas- sage. We did not, however, extricate ourselves from this perilous si- tuation, without passing two other icebergs, one higher than our mast-head, and so close that the vessel had only half her breadth to spare. But, this achievement over, we had no farther difficulty in sailing two miles through the channel, when we reached a place of security, and made fast to two large icebergs, out of the stream, and near the entrance of a good harbour. In this position there was a large island on each side, and, before us, the mainland. This mainland was what we had seen the day before, and dis- played a high range of mountains close to the coast, extending in a north and south direction ; while it seemed to trend in a more fa- vourable manner than formerly, and no land was visible beyond Uie cape. We proceeded to examine and sound the harbour near us, together with the several entrances to it : but these latter were ail blocked up, with exception of the one to which we were opposite. Thus, after all, the place which we had first chosen proved the most TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. U7 •nil hazard, eft. II Ii.Kl l>Ie to haul I her own ■ her stern •face. We ' place, for ; and thus ;tvveen the however, 1 the ship Iter on it, ime to he down I)y her over cxccechnl ►n it, and ff, that it , and we )me pro- Ihe pas- ilous si- han our eadlh to culty in place of am, and e was a nd dis- ng in a lore fa- Jeyond ir near r were Josite. emost convenient; and we therefore remained satisfied with the result of our day's work, and not thankless for our escapes through so ha- zardous a navigation. There was a little snow, and no hay ice was seen ; the air and water holii at 29", and the wind, in the evening, coming from the north-east. We were here ohiiged to fill our casks with ice, as there was no fresh water to be procured. The land near us consisted, as usual, of granite. {Srp/. 215) The wind came to the northward during the night, causing such a rise of the tide that all the icebergs were set in mo- lion. In consequence, they were shortly all carried off, except one ^^hich was kept in its place by our ropes. In the morning it was clear, and we saw, from the mast-head, a good deal of open water to the southward, forming the receptacle of the ice which was sail- ing out of this narrow channel. Thus we at first thought that it would clear itself, so that we might perhaps proceed by noon : but the unlucky arrival of a large pack of ice at the northern entrance, not only filled it up once more, but produced a general stoppage w liich compelled ms to remove the ship farther within the harbour. In the afternoon we landed, and took formal possession of the island to which we were now moored, giving it the name of Andrew Ross, being that of my son. From the cairn which we built, we obtained a very extensive view, and saw land bearing south of us at a distance of eighteen or twenty miles; yet not so as to ascertain whether it consisted of islands, or was a continuation of the land near us, and the American continent. Much clear water was also seen in the same direction ; giving some prospect of a farther pro- gress, in case the wind should come to the northward, and enable us to clear the channel by which we were imprisoned. A sketch being taken, the islands were named. The last night's gale had so blow n away the snow, lodging it in the ravines and hollows, that the land seemed comparatively clear, and the island on which we stood w as so bare as to show its clean granite, without a mark of vegetation. A slight fogginess in the direction of the newly-seen islands continued to render the view of them indistinct; and, in the evening, the weather was quite mode- rate, with a temperature of 21", though without the formation of any new ice. The harbour having been at length quite surveyed, w as found to have fifteen feet at low water, with an even muddy bottom, to be free of currents, except in the main channel, and I 1 J ^1 H I 118 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY n tji'i hi st'cure from every wind. Where the current did run, it was, indeed, very powerful; carrying the ice through it with fearful velocity and tremendous collision. Except a glaucous gull, we her*^ saw no animal. (Sept. 2C) Though calm and clear after midnight, and the thermo- meter not more than 27", no new ice was formed in the still water, and the tide carried away the greater part of that which had occupied the channel. But, at nine, it began to come in at the northerly opening; which, with a north-easterly breeze and a heavy fall of snow, put an end to all prospect of advancing for this day. Soon after dark, the temperature fell to 215", and the snow continued to fall; but, under the influence of the tides, the ice began to clear away in both directions. An increase of wind forced us to carry out additional ropes, and the Krusenstern was also moored in a place of security. {Sept. 27) During the night it blew a very hard gale from the northward, and the tide rising high in conscrpience, all the icebergs were set in motion. Our strongest hawser slipped off the rock to which it was fastened, and obliged us to let go an anchor, as it was dark : but when daylight came, we transferred the former to ano- ther rock, and got the anchor up again. It was then seen that the channel was closed with ice at both ends ; and thus it continued the whole day, though having some clear water in the middle, at its widest part. A good deal of heavy ice came to the entrance of this little harbour, but did not reach our own clear water, on which no new ice was formed, in consequence, probably, of the gale. After muster and prayers, part of the crew was sent on shore for exercise, and the remainder in the evening. Being with this last party, we saw that in spite of some open sea, there was no chance of our being released from our present situation without a change of wind. We had time to walk over this island, which is the largest of the group, but found no vegetation, nor any animal; though, on the following morning, we killed a seal and a glaucous gull. The temperature of the air and water equally, was 29", and it came on to blow hard from the north-west soon after we got on board. {Sept. 28) Though the wind veered to the west during the night, it did not release us, as we had hoped. The ice, indeed, had drifted a considerable way off the coast, but our channel was still locked up. Besides this, there was much heavy ice driving up and down, •n TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 110 n, it was, ith fearful II , we hero he Ihermo- jlill water, d occupied ! northerly lavy fall of lay. Soon ntinued to n to clear us to carry Dored in a ! from the le icebergs he rock to , as it was ler to ano- 3n that the tinned the die, at its ice of this which no e. shore for i this last 10 chance change of le largest ough, on dl. The came on ird. le night, d drifted I locked i\ down. ■J with great volocify, before the tide, which, even could wc have got out, it would not have been prudent to encounter. Some of these massed, indeed, entered the channel, sweeping it clear from side to side for a time, as some of them blocked up the entrance of our harbour. A survey by the boat, however, showed at last that we might gel out at the southern entrance, if we could release ourselves from the prison that now enclosed us. Though it was moderate all day, the barometer fell an inch, prognosticating what soon occurred. Accordingly, we were visited l)y a very heavy gale, in the evening, from the norlh-north-west, with a snow storm, which obliged us to carry a cable to the rocks, and another to the next iceberg, for the sake of keeping it between us and the shore, in case any shift of wind should drive us on the rocks from which we were not uiany yards off. Tiie thermometer was at one time 22", and rose to 28". We examined the island to the south of us to-day, but found nothing on it to attract our atten- tion. (Sopt. 29) The snow storm continued without intermission all night; but, in the morning, it had so far cleared away the ice as to render the passage navigable. The state of the weather would not, however, permit us to get under way, since no canvas could have stood against the gale. Towards noon, and in the evening, the wind was in squalls, and the snow ceased to fall ; when such was the effect on the land, as to blow away the snow by which it had been previously covered. The thermometer was at 23" in the middle of the storm, and did not sink below 21" : while, in the evening, the barometer began to rise. By this time the entrance of the harbour was cleared, and all the new ice and frozen snow were dispersetl. After the tide had risen, it continued the whole day at nearly the same elevation, marking that effect of the winds Avhich we had more than once before noticed. The latitude was observed at 70" 12', and the longitude, uncorrected, at 92" 21'. No one could leave the ship during the whole of this day. {Sept. 30) The storm abated gradually during the night; and at five, being daylight, it seemed sufficiently moderate to warrant an attempt to get out: the channel, to the southward, being nearly clear of ice. Accordingly, the cables and hawsers were cast off, and at six we got under way, with the Krusenslern in tow. Though the tide in the channel was setting north, or against us, the northerly ! • I I it 'm ii *i s \ j :!({ . M*' 120 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY hn-ezc with us was sufficient to make lis run through it at llie rate of five miles an hour; estimating the current, at the same time, at half that quantity. At seven we passed the southern entrance of the harhour and the south-east opening of the channel ; finding the tide stronger as we advanced, and most rapid in the narrowest part, as might have been expected. It was now necessary to know more of what was likely to follow, .since we had arrived at the boundary of our present knowledge; and we were, therefore, in great anxiety to discover the trending of the land ; watching the westernmost cape, and every successive point that opened as we advanced. We found that the distant land which we had seen between the round island and the main, was a cluster of large islands, and that (he coast was trending to the west- ward. At eight we had rounded the cape; successively opening out seven points, of which the fifth marked the place of a large inlet or bay, whi( h, on our approach, we found to be full of ice. A bay beyond the second point seemed also to offer a good harbour : while we farther noticed a remarkable inlet, with what appeared to be two islands at its entrance. These several places were named ; but I need not here give what will be more usefully seen in the chart and tables. Our distance gradually increased, in running down the coast, from a hundred yards to two miles ; and, at noon, the great body of ice was seen extending from the shore about two miles north of the extreme point of the mainland, to the islands southward : thus completely obstructing all farther passage, since it consisted of very heavy masses most closely packed. We had run seventeen miles ; five to the south and twelve to the south-west : and we now. therefore, tacked and beat up to the land in search of a harbour, detaching a boat as we approached, to sound and seek for a safe po- sition : while, in the mean lime, we made fast to a neighbouring iceberg, but in a situation that could not be trusted, from the small depth of water. The boat discovered, to the north-eastward of our place, a spa- cious bay, but open on three points of the compass; and, to the south-west, an island which offered a place of security, having a rock above water to the south, with a shallow ridge near the north- ern entrance. This position we therefore took; making fast to two icebergs, and under protection of the islet, so as to be not more f iaj-i, -^ '» TO THE ARCTIC REGIO??S. 121 than a rein(; this «h)ctrine on navigators, he- cause the reverse opinion is rooted ; as the consecpience of the op- |)08ite practice is, to keep a vessel in a constant stale of actual, as well as ap|)reh(Mided danger, or anxiety. And this is. in fact, the source of all the dangers and narrow escapes of which we read; while a little care and patience would generally avoid thai frequent casualty, the being beset in the ice. A little refli'clion should indeed .show, that it is not within the power of a ship to force herself through such obstructions: and thence do I recur to the conclusion, that it is imprudent, as well as idle, to be perpetually pushing on to reach every tract of open water, unless it can be done without risk, and unless also there be a prospect of retaining the ground that has been gained, or of making a determinate progress. "It is indeed true, as it may be answered to these remarks, thai it is the business of a ship to seek for a harbour, especially after i long run, and on on unknown co.ist. liut it is generally easy to send boats on this ( illy, with little )r no comparative hazard, \»ueu there are prospects of refuge on shore: while, instead of thus endangering the ship, if is, a . 1 have already recommended, the safest, and indeed liie only pruder pracifce, to take to the ice. This is, if I mistake not, the refu«T» , irnishcd by Providence; and he who neglects it, still trusting t j l*rovid^"ce to escape the dan- gers which he unnece.ssari J /tcurs, must ::ot complain in case of failure; since he has not everted his utmost care .nd prudence to render himself entitled to that protection. Let il-d be kept in mind by him at least who may hereafter attempt a ' north-west passage:' and let him never lose sight of the two words, caution, and patience. " I I 1 4 * H also de- arbour, hcsila- is near though is not lile we oner or y _j 194 SECO^'D VOTiAOE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XII. (! REMARKS ON THE PRESENT CONDITION OF THE SHIP, AND PREPARA- TIONS TO REDUCE THE ENCUMBRANCE OF THE ENGINE— UNRIGGING OF THE SHIP— A SUCCESSFUL BEAR HUNT— ASCERTAIN THAT WE ARE TRULY FROZEN IN FOR THE WINTER— A POWDER MAGAZINE ERECTED ON SHORE— PROVISIONS EXAMINED— THE GUNS AND PARTS OF THE ENGINE HOISTED OUT. m in Before proceeding with the journal of the following month, I must offer some remarks on the actual condition of our ship, espe- cially as regards the engine. The record of the last weeks has already shown that we had ceased to consider her as aught more than a sailing vessel : and it is also true, that whatever advantage we had latterly derived from our machinery, it was not greater than we might have obtained from our two boats, by towing. But, thus rendering us no service, the engine was not merely useless : it was a serious encumbrance; since it occupied, with its fuel, two- thirds of our tonnage, in weight and measurement. It had been, from the beginning, a very heavy grievance in another way, and in addition to the endless troubles and vexations which I have already recorded : since it demanded and employed the services of four per- sons, who were necessarily landsmen, not sailors : thus cramping, very seriously, the number of our real, or nautical, cre^y. As the engine, moreover, had been considered the essential moving power in the original arrangement of the vessel, the masting, and sail- ing had been reduced accordingly, since it was presumed that the sails would only be r quired in stormy weather; so that, in fact, she was almost a jury rigged ship. To add to all these disadvantages, she had, under this imperfect power, the heavy duty of towing a boat of eighteen tons, a dimension equalling one-fourth of her own : the whole comprising a mass of obstruction and encumbrance which we certainly as little expected as we had foreseen when we quitted England. TO THE ARCTIC REGIOJiS. IS') PREPARA- SRIGGING rHAT WE IAGAZI]VE ND PARTS month, I lip, espe- ^ecks has ght more itlvantage t greater ig. But, I useless : uel, two- lad been, ^ and in J already four per- 'amping. As the g power and sail- that the fact, she antages, owing a of her nbrance then we If with all this, we had not less reason to be thankful for the pro- gress we had made, than really to wonder at our success thus far, these were not things to make us shut our eyes to what it seemed now most needful to do. In future, our ship was to be a sailing vessel, and nothing more. 1 therefore determined to lighten her of the most ponderous and least expensive part of this machinery, and to apply, towards strengthening the ship, whatever might seem available for that purpose. With this view, arrangements were made on the last day of September, for taking to pieces the boilers, that we might land them as soon as the ship should be frozen in ; an event that could not be distant; while, to this, I had more than the concurrence of every officer, and, probably, that of every man. It is true that we thus consented to reduce ourselves to a degree of pow er far inferior to that of any preceding vessel engaged in these services; but, in reality, that evil had already occurred against our will, and our voluntary act of self condemnation was, after all, little more than a form. {Oct. 1) During the last night, the thermometer fell to 17% threatening us with having reached our last position for this season; but, towards daylight, the weather became cloudy, and the tempe- rature rose to 21", with a fall of snow, which continued the whole day. We were thus, however, prevented from ascending the high land near us, and, thence, from making those observations on the state of the coast and the ice, which were indispensable towards any farther attempt at proceeding. We could do nothing more therefore than sound and survey our little harbour; and were pleas- ed to find that if we should really be frozen up in this spot, we should find it a safe place, after making some alterations in it, by clearing away the heavy masses, and sawing into the bay ice, which was now six inches thick. The snow ceased at night. A very recent foxtrap was found on the shore : and as the seals were very shy, while numerous, it was a natural conclusion that the Esqui- maux had not long quitted this place. {Oct. 2) Though tlie morning was cloudy, it was not an unfavour- able day for an inland excursion. We landed on the north side of the harbour, as the ice was not such as to enable us to cross it to the southern one, which was, to us, the important point. After passing a valley containing a frozen lake, 1 ascended a high hill, and thence discovered that a creek which had caused us to make a i n i' 1'^ M t 126 SJiCOAD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY u .^ ■ "■ circuit, was an inlet running about six miles within the land, in a north-west direction. Here 1 also saw the head of the great inlet which we had observed on the thirteenth, surrounded by land appearing considerably higher than that to the south-west, which consisted of a succession of uniform low hills. Beyond this land 1 rould see no water. To the south-east, there was a perfect view of the islands that we had passed on the thirtieth of September, toge • iher with some land to the eastward and southward, which was probably the American continent; though this point could not then he determined, any more than 1 could ascertain whether it was a continuation of that on which I was now standing. At present, it was more important to know what the state of the ice was, and what it was likely to be; but what we -s.iw gave us no hopes of any farther progress. AVe wtre at a stand. We had in- deed long suspected that the event which could not be very distant, was impending, nor could we, in reason, be surprised that it had arrived, let we had been busy and active up to the present point, and our perpetual efforts had, as is usual in life, prevented us from thinking of the future, from seeing that the evil which could not for ever be protracted, was drawing nearer every hour, that it was coming every minute, that it was come ; thus nourishing that blind hope, which even in the face of inevitable danger or of certain ruin, even on the bed of death itself, is the result of effort and resistance; I hat hope which ceases only with the exertions by which it was supported, when the helpless ship falls asunder on the rock, and the sun fades before the eyes of the dying man. It was now that we were compelled to think, for it was now that there was nothing more to be performed ; as it was now also that the long and dreary months, the long-coming year I might almost say, of our inevitable detention among this immoveable ice rose full in our view. The prison door was shut upon us for the first time; while feeling that if we were helpless as hopeless captives, that not even Nature could now relieve or aid us, for many a long and weary month to come, it was impossible to repel the intrusion of those thoughts which, if they follow disappointment, press on us ever more heavily, under that subsidence of feeling which follows on the first check to that exertion by which hope was supported. Should we have done better, been farther advanced, have passed through these difKculties, and more, should we have passed all, ■i s I T!" TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 187 anil found ourselves where we wished, formings a junction w ilh the discoveries to the westward, had the engine not disappointed us, had we heen here, as we ought to have been, a month or six weeks sooner? Was it the badness of our vessel, a complication of defects not lo have been foreseen, which had prevented us from completing the outline of America, from ascertaining the '■•north-west passage" in a single season? This was the thought that tormented us; and not unnaturally, when we recollected all that we had endured, all our delays and disappointments. But, like that self-tormenting under w hich mankind make themselves so often fruitlessly misera- ble, these thoughts were purposeless, and worse; so that we has- tened to discard them as they arose : aware, on reflection, that we could not see into the distant and the future, that we could not speculate on the nature of the land before us, could not be sure what the ice had been before our arrival, and could, therefore, as little know, whether there was a passage westward to be found in this direction, as whether we should have been one foot farther advanced, had every thing we desired conformed to our wishes. We saw here many tracks of hares, and shot some which were, even at this early period, quite white : this needful change taking place, as should now be well known to naturalists, long before the ground has become permanently covered with snow, and long be- for(! the weather has become truly cold ; proving that it is, at least, not the effect of temperature, as it is assuredly a prospective ar- rangement for meeting the cold of winter. The track of a bear was also found; and, in the interior, we could see, even through the snow, that the plains were covered with vegetation; while the pro- truding rocks consisted of red granite, accompanied i)y fragments of limestone near the shore; indicating a continuity of the same geolo- gical structure that we had traced ever since entering this strait. There were many Esquimaux traps, with a great number of those cairns, or stones, resembling men when at a distance, w hich these people erect for the purpose of frightening the deer within their reach. In this space, amounting to five miles, which we had tra- versed, there were two large lakes. ( Oct. 3) During our yesterday's excursion the men nearly demo- lished the iceberg which chiefly obstructed our possible exit, so that it was hove out into the tideway before five o'clock: but as it con- tinued calm, with a temperature of 20°, there was little chance of I ! ' 'I i V k j*i^ 12S SECO>D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY h^ 'I \^''''i proceeding, even after this impediment was surmounted; since, in this state of tilings, the new ice could not fail to set us fast. This morning the temperature promised even worse, being only 13": hut, during the day, it rose to 21", the weather being clear and mo- derate. Landing again, we reached the summit of the highest acces- sible hill at noon : but the sight of the horizon from it was imper- fect, and we could decide on nothing, though what we did see was by no means of a promising nature. The ascent of a second hill disclosed nothing but a vast extent of land from the north-east to the south-west, with no space of water but that where we lay. and which resembled the bottom of a great bay. We aj^ain saw the tracks of hares, and that of a white bear, together with those of ermines and foxes ; picking up, moreover, the horns of a reindeer. The state of the ice was however the important consideration ; while knowing too well how difficult it is here to judge of the na- ture and connexions of the land, I was fully aware that we could not form any decisive conclusions from what we had yet seen. The former appeared nearly in the same state ; and we had now even more reason to believe *''.at the great pack was so firmly ce- mented for the winter, that it would separate no more. Of the land I was determined to acquire more knowledge, if that should be possible, by travelling; as far as it should prove accessible. Our ship was not absolutely frozen in ; but she was placed in the most desirable position that could be found, in case of that event occur- I ing ; as we had now so much reason to expect. As to the nature of the land thus traversed, it differed little from what we had already examined; though more uneven and rugged. The valleys, as before, included lakes; but those which we saw were but a few feet deep, and seemed to contain no fish. Angles were taken from a cairn erected on the highest hill, together with the usual observations. In the mean time, the men on board were employed in taking the engine to pieces, for the purpose of lauding it, the dogs were exercised in the sledges, and other preparations for wintering were made. The thermometer, in the night, sank to 16° with a fall of snow, while the air had a peculiarly raw and cold feel. (Oct. 4) The morning temperature was 13", but it rose to 17" at noon, and the snow ceased. Being Sunday, divine service was per- formed, and the men were sent on shore for exercise, when some I; since, in fast. This only 13" : ar and mo- fhest acces- ^vas impcT- litl see was second hill •rlh-east to ve lay, and in saw the h those of 1 reindeer, iideralion ; of the na- we could yet seen. had now firmly ce- ?. Of the lat should ble. Our I the most nt occur- ittle from rugged, we saw Angles ther with >ard wer(! f landing para lions , sank to and cold to 17° at was per- en sonit; .1 4 I TO TUE ARC lie REGIONS. I;iy ptarmigans were seen. The ice had but little increased, and there was still much open water to the north-east, with some to the southward, though the heavy pack which lay in our way remained in the same slate. There was more snow on the hills, yet the ap- proach of winter was much more gradual than it had usually been found in these climates. {Oci. y) The men were employed in unbending some of the small sails and in unreeTing the running rigging, w hile the engineers were busied in continuing the work which they had commenced on Sa- turday. The temperature rose from 14" to 17", but fell again to 1 i" in the evening ; and there was open water not very far from the ship. The dogs were again exercised, and a fox was seen on the ice, being the first that we had met with. An aurora borealis was observed at one o'clock, and the barometer rose to 30" 73'. The weather, at the same time, became so thick as to render it hopeless al present to get any farther sight of the land; and as we were at length quite frozen round, the prospect of advancing became less and less every hour. (Oct. 6) A fresh breeze of wind made the last night colder than any which had preceded; and, in the morning, the temperature was at 12"; rising in the course of the day to 14". We now therefore proceeded to cut the ice, so as to get the ship into what we consi- dered the position of greatest safety for the winter; a work which occupied the whole day. There was still a little open water to the northward: not much snow fell, and, in the evening, the wind shifted to the south, blowing fresh. The tedium of this day, the forerunner of many far worse, was enlivened by a successful bear hunt, being the first chance of the kind which had occurred to us. The animal, having approached the ship, was turned towards the island ; and in this way our party was enabled to cut it oif from the land. Thus imprisoned, we turned our Greenland dogs on it ; but they proved to be of no "s'*, showing nothing of the instinctive desire to attack this animal, which is so general in their race. It was Ihen chased to the water; where, plunging into the new-formed ice, it could make little pro- gress, and was, consequently, overtaken by the skiff and killed. Being brought on board, it proved to be a female of a medium size ; measuring six feel eight inches between the nose and the tail, and weighing five hundred pounds. 8.. • n H u i:)() SECOiXD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Aif M-- ,'!"■'■' "1 m '■ :ltf {Oct. 7) After a fine moriiinpr, the snow came on at eight ; hut the weather was so much mihler, that the thermometer rose from 12" to 21". The sawingf of the ice was finished at noon ; and the ship, heing hauled in, was placed with her head to the northward, between the island and the main, so as to he quite defended, both from the eastern and western blasts. With land also toward the north, and the rock to the south-east, she was open to only three j)oints of the compass, so that we had reason to be pleased with our success, where no great choice could have been connnanded at any time. The depth of water was thirty-three feet : and as there had been a current as long as there could have been one, we had a right to conclude that it would return with the summer, and expe- tlitethe disruption of the ice, so as to assist us in getting out, when- ever that season should arrive. The boats were now therefore landed, the decks cleared of ropes and spars, and the other need- ful arrangements made for housing the ship during the winter. (Oci. 8) There could, in fact, no longer be the least doubt that we were at o'M' winter's home; if we could indeed have reasonably doubted this some days before. But, as I have already said, it was a time to come, sooner or later; and if we had, within this last week, found reasons enough to feel neither surprise nor disap- pointment, so, as I had concluded at our first entanglement in this jtlace, were we far from being sure that we had anything to regret. AVe could not, indeed, expect to lead an active life now : we did not even know that we should find anything usufel to do : but it was our business to contrive employment, and to make ourselves as easy and as happy as we could, under circumstances which we had anii)le reason to expect. We were, I believe, all pretty well provided with patience, and there was no reason to want hope ; it was for after years to draw somewhat deeply on the former, and to prove, of the latter, that more, perhaps, depends on a fortunate constitution than on aught else. Our conviction was indeed absolute; for there was now not an atom of clear water to be seen any where ; and excepting the occasional dark point of a protruding rock, nothing but one dazzling and monotonous , dull and wearisome extent of snow was visible, all round the horizon in the direction of the land. It was indeed a dull prospect. Amid all its brilliancy, this land, the land of ice and snow, has ever been, and ever will' be a dull, ri TO THE ARCTIC REGIO>S. 131 it ; Init llu! ' from 1 '■2" I the ship. Di'thward, idt'd, both 3\vard the )nly three ased with nanded at 1 as there we had a and expe- nt, when- Iherefore her need- winter, lonbt that easonahly id, it was 1 this last or disap- nt in this thing to fe now : I to do : make mstances ieve, all eason to eeply on depends V not an ling the but one low was and. It is land, 3 a dull, dreary, heartsinking, monotonous, waste, under the influence of which the very mind is paralyzed, ceasing to care or think, as it ceases to feel what might, did it occur but once, or last but one day, stimulate us by its novelty; for it is but the view of uniformity and silence and death. Kven a poetical imagination would be troubled to extract matter of description from that which offers no variety; where nothing moves and nothing changes, but all is for ever the same, cheerless, cold, and still. Amid all this, it was a satisfaction to find that every one seemed pleased with the progress w hich had been made. It was indeed far short of what had at first been expected; but on examining what had been done, much more quietly and far more in detail than we had been enabled to do in our first reflections under this obstruc- tion, and on comparing that with our numerous impediments and misadventures , the view now taken w as not less reasonable than gratifying. We could not forget the days when we should have thought ourselves fortunate though we had only reached Tort Ho wen in this season, and though we had failed in attaining to the wreck and the stores of the Fury. IJut when the chart was at length dis- played before us, we saw that we had not merely reached this great point in our voyage, but had passed it by a hundred and sixty-six geographical miles, and were two hundred farther than that har- bour where we had expected to be laid up, if we had even attained that spot. Nor was it less satisfactory to reflect on the numerous dangers which we had escaped, in navigating passages so truly intricate and perilous, under the gales that we had evaded, and through the ice which had been rendered our slave rather than our master. Thus comparing and considering, as we had at length ample time and much reason to do, we came to the tranquillizing conclusion that we were now become a little united and settled family; all equally zealous and equally patient; all ready for new difficulties whenever they should occur, and, while all thankful for our success, all, w hose duty it was to obey, giving obedience with a good will, or an alacrity, which might not have been equally con- sjiicuous under positive martial law. During twenty-four hours the gale was fresh from the east-south- east, with driving snow, which was inconvenient as far as our works were concerned ; but the thermometer being at 24°, the cold was not severe. The men were employed in clearing the hold and mea- i :| 13 J SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY III! J 1 suring lUe nMnaliiiiig fiu'l, and Ihe (.'iigineors were busied on llic engine : while the ciirpenters were at work in making alterations in the cabin, to secure us belter from the cold. We had not lately been able to keep it hij;her than 28", in consequence of the position of the door; but by these alterations we could now keep it at VS", and had no desire for a higher temperature. This is sufficient to keep off damp : and in this climate, that is a circumstance more to be avoided than mere cold. We boiled the blubber of our bear and some seals, on shore; but Ihe smell attracted no foxes or bears, so that we believed there were no animals at this place. (Oct. 9) The snow ceased this morning, and the thermometer rose from 19^ to 2u", the sun shining bright during the day. The en- gine was nearly taken to pieces; and, by throwing down the bulk head, the s:'amen's accommodations were materially extended. Ob- serving some large holes of water to the south-west, we went to examine them, and found them varying from twenty square yards to an acre, in extent, with a strong current boiling up at their western sides, and running towards the east, in which direction their longest dimensions lay. During the whole day this current remained the same ; a fact which puzzled us, as we v\3re obliged to postpone the determination of its real nature and cause to the ensuing summer. If there were any among us who had theories of si)rings here rising in the sea, or rivers running into it, they are not worth the trouble of either detail or examination. Towards evening the wind came round to the northward, and the thermometer fell to 13". A seal was shot, but was lost by sinking; and the skeleton of the bear having been sunk in the water that it might be cleaned by the marine animals, was brought up with some shrimps and shell fish attached, to increase our small collec- tion of specimens. This was the only perfectly clear night we had seen since our residence in these straits; and, the moon being full, the aspect of every thing was unusually cheerful. {Oct. 10) Tlie northerly breeze had blown hard, but subsided towards morning, so as to leave us a bright and clear day ; the sea horizon, however, presenting a thick fog. Nothing remained stand- ing on board but the lower masts with their rigging. An excur- sion on shore led us to a rude stone of a columnar form, erected, by the Esquimaux, but for a purpose that did not appear ; and we ob- served the tracks of foxes. A small quantity of clear water was m.: ''!(*. TO THE \UC11C REGIONS. 133 icd on llu* alterations 1 not lately he position p it at V6\ efficient to ce more to f our bear ?s or bears, •meter rose . The en- n the bulk tided. Ob- ve went to uare yards ip at their 1 direction is current obliged to jse to the id theories t, they are d, and the r sinking; ler that it up with all coUec- it we had )eing; full, subsided ; the sea i3d stand- n excur- ected, by d we ob- ater was i still seen to the northward, as well as in the openings already men- tioned; but we could conjecture no cause for this current. In the day the temperature was Ki", falling to 10" at night. The lati- tude was settled at 09" l>8' 14", and longitude Uii" 1' 0". (Oct. 11) The sky being overcast, the thermometer rose to 18". but, even at this temperature, it did not feel cold, as the breeze was moderate. The ship's crew were mustered in good health, excepting R. Wall, who had fallen down into the engine room, yet without any serious injury. After church service, the men were allowed their turns on shore; and, in their walk, they set up a landmark for the shij), about four miles olf on the coast. The wind freshened at night, and the thermometer fell to 11". {Oct. i'-2) There was no material change. The work in the ship was continued, and a place for a po\\ Jer magazine selected on the island near us, which was consecpienlly named Magazine Island. The hold being restowed, the fuel was measured, and found to amount to seven hundred bushels of coal and coke; being, as we computed, sufficient for the ordinary wants of the ship during the same number of days. A complete examination of the provisions also took place : and the result was, to find that there was enough for two years and ten months, on full allowance; a quantity easily made to cover three years consumption. The quantity of oil and tallow w as found such as to promise a duration equivalent to that of the provisions; presuming, at least, on the farther assistance that we had a right to expect from our captures of bears and seals, on sea and land. The thermometer, on the twelfth, was 14", falling to lO" the next day; and, again rising to 20", it remained so till late, not falling below 17° at midnight; the weather becoming more and more cloudy, with an appearance of threatening snow. We thought ourselves fortunate in discovering here what might turn out a source of fresh provisions, in a large whelk, which had not been seen in the former voyages. Some unsuccessful attempts were made on the seals, and a part of the engine was hoisted over on the ice. The snow, on the following day (Oct. 14), fulfilled its promise ; coming on very early in the morning, when the ther- mometer rose to 20", and then to 22", falling back to 17° to- wards night. The brass guns were put on the ice, with more of the engine, and the lower deck was cleared of some spare stores. •I ' -Jl 134 SECO?iD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY by slovviiiif these in the hold. They who vahird omens were U't'l lo spociil.ile on the prophesyit <; of a raven which flew ronneen either ahsurd or important, it is probable that I shuuKl have beard enou(;h of them, without inquirinij. I I 1:: »»f T^: 1 f 1 r »' fl| m 9 w L,, l;l ■T ■'■■ i Ml CHAPTER XIII. JVKMVUKS ON THE ACTUAL TEMPERATURE AND ON TI1\T OF SEN- SATION— PROCEED IN LICI'TLMNG THE SHIP— THE ENGINE FINALLY LANDED, AND THE KRUSENSTERN SECURED — ROOFINO OF THE SHIP COMPLETED — REMARKS ON THE TEMPEKATURE — ABOLITION OF THE USE OF SPIRITS ON BOARD— CONTRIVANCES FOR WARMING AND VENTILATING THE VAPOUR BETWEEN DECKS —DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR WINTERING. AS RELATING BOTH TO THE SHIP AND THE CREW. (Oct. 11)) The snow ceased before dayUtjht, but it blew fresh from the north ; feeling very cold, though the thermometer was 18' : a temperature, which, but a few days before, had not been disa- greeable. This difference is, very obviously, as it is vulgarly, explained by the different strength of the wind; while the imme- diate cause, on this supposition, is too simple to recpiire state- ment. Uut there is much more to be taken into consideration ; while some of the circumstances are either so little heeded, or so difficult to perceive, that if the reader is sometimes puzzled to explain the apparent contradictions in the reports on the actual heat and on that of sensation, they who feel that of which others read, are often not less puzzled themselves. I may as well state here, once for all, what has struck me when thinking on this subject; since the same collision of facts is likely to be of fre- quent occurrence, and the reader will be thus enabled to explain for himself, many future statements of the same nature, and save f 10 THE ARCTIC REGIO^iS. 135 w round oiynostics vn <'ither k'e bear* I OF SEN- ENGINE IU)()FIN(i V^TLUE — 1VA^(;ES > DECKS DE FOR P HKEAV. \v fresh as 18': n iiisa- iilgarly, imme- state- ralion ; cd, or zlcd to actual others 11 state on this of fre- L'xplain id save ine the trouble of rccurrin{j to what I believe to be the philoso- |ihy of this subject. Amoni; these considerations, is the hy(i;rometrical state of the air, of which we did not preserve any register; but this is not so simple a case as it appears at first sight. Kvery one knows that a damp air feels cold and raw ; il is a bettor conductor of heat, ^et the same effect on the sensations is produced by the reverse condition of the atmosphere. A dry air increases the evaporation from the body, and that evaporation is a source of cold. Combining one or other of these conditions with the varying strength of the wind, we already see a certain nay into the intricacy of this question ; but that is not yet the whole, even as the mere atmosphere is concerned. The damp air does not, necessarily and always, produce a sensation of coldness, and, least of all, does it produce this effect when the weather is calm ; since a fog, by checking the radiation of heat from the surface, may be more than an equivalent to the cold which its conducting power might cause; while it also acts in the same direction, in another manner, by checking the evajjoration from the body. But the state of the body itself is scarcely of less moment than all this, in any attempts to explain these apparent contradictions; as it complicates the whole question in a far higher degree. Every one knows that the sense of cold can exist in certain fevers, even under the burning sun of Africa; and the same internal sensation, as of a low temperature, is of frequent occurrence from other diseases, and moreover from derangements of health so slight as to be undefina- ble. It is far more remarkable, that the feeling of extreme cold can be present, under fever, w hen the temperature of the body is many degrees above the natural standard, and when, to the touch of others, the patient is burning hot; as, in the space of a very few minutes, it may appear the same to himself, though no change of the actual temperature has taken place. Thus also, if the circumstances dilfer, does exercise, or the want of it, produce sensations of temperature, when there is nothing external to cause them ; and the case is similar under want, or reversely, under abundance, of food. These are things which affect the power that generates animal heat; as the greater or less energy of this power is perhaps the chief cause of all the facts which are often so difficult of explanation under a simple regard to external ,. . lao SECOMD VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY :M .It il ■ ill Nil liiii|ii'i-iitiiic. That oiU'r(]y, too, is not the mere prodiioo of food or exerrisc; there are cases, in wliieh no allowance of food, and no exertion of the innscular powers, will suilice to preserve a hi(}li teniperalnre in the hnnian body. In reality, thon(>h it is little re- marked, and, as far as 1 know, is not even observed l>y the writers on physiolojjy, the power nf v ier,i»in[; heal varies exeeedinp.ly in dili'ercnt individnals, and is . .im;*'!^ a portion of the original con- slilntion, as are (he museniJi or the mental ener);ies. Any one who [deascs may observe this in comnt jn luc il was always striking to ns, in eircnmstanees where the application jf the test was so often extreme; so that, after a little practice, il was easy to anticipate who wonld suffer from degrees of cold which others would despise. In mentioning this, 1 am also, injustice to the chief sufferers in our crew, bound to observe, thai I have myself been noted, by a pliysiologist of well-known reputation, as possessing in a very high degree, the power of generating heat, whence too, as he infers, that indifference to cold of which I was always conscious; together, consequently, with the very limited comparative suffering that I experienced during that long protracted winter, as 1 may fairly call it, which occupied four of the winters of England, yet such winters as England never saw and will never conjecture, together with five summers, of which every one would, in that country, be deemed severe beyond the severity of its own Januuries and Febru;iries. 1 nuist leave it to the reader to judge how far this constitution may have influenced my reports on the temperature of sensation, on many occasions; it is certain that 1 could not judge what others fell ; but 1 could not have described what I did not nijseb feel. These remarks are not mere matters of ])hilosophioal speculation, nor are they questions of amusement or curiosity alone. They olfer usefid hints to those who may hereafter engage in similar expeditions ; since they deserve some among the first attentions in the selection of a crew. Other circumstances of apparent health and strength being equal, it is he who seems the readiest generator of heat who ought to be the selected individual ; for no one will know, until he has suffered from it, what disappointments and vexations and labours, and restraints to the service, follow from the suscrptibihty of cold in the individuals who may form the crew of a ship, on a service like this : to say nothing of the accidents, in mor- TO THE ARCT.C KEGIONS, 187 tific'ilions iind (U'iill), and in scurvy loo. I Ikix* liltit; doiibl, which follow from the saiiic vnmc. 1 know not, howevi'i*, thai 1 can give rules thntwill not prodnrc disappointnicnt, where the test of fuels would be the really desirable I'.uide. Kut this at least seems certain, that men of the largest a|i]>etit(.s and most perfect digestion produce llie most heat; as feeble stomachs, whether dyspeptic, as it is term- ed, or merely unable to receive nnich food, are subject to suffer the most from cold ; never generating heat enough to resist its impressions. Physicians must determine whether the strong digestive power and the heat-generating one are but parts of one original constitu- tion, or whether the larje use of food is not a cause of the pro- duction of heat ; but what follows is at least practically true, us the reasons seem abundantly plain. He who is well-fed resists cold better than the man who is stinted; while the starvation from cold follows but loo soon a starvation in food. This, doubtless, explains in a great measure, the resisting powers of the natives of these fro- zen climates : their consumption of food, it is familiar, being enor- mous, and often incredible. But it is also a valuable remark for those who may hereafter be situated like ourselves ; since if these views are correct, as I believe them, both from experience and rea- soning to be, it shows that no eifort shouhl be spared to ensure an ample supply of the best food. Our system, whether in the navy or the merchant service, and in whatever parts of the world, be it the icy seas, or the tropical ocean, has been as fixed as it is uniform; and perhaps i ought not lo blame those who have made regulations, when they did not know, and could not therefore take into consideration the grounds on which their orders ought to have been regulated. If the allow- ance of the food for seamen, under all possible dilferences of cli- mate, or labour of service, technically speaking, has been fixed, and uniform, implying circumstances, and involving conseipiences respecting which 1 dare not here take room to speak, so, in the case immediately before me, have we been accustomed to fix the allow- ance of food, to restrict it, I may fairly say, through an experience founded on far other circumstances, or under a system calculated from very different data. The conclusion therefore in which I wish to rest, willingly us I would have extended these remarks, and perhaps then extending las SECO>D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ' w IM' lliciii so as to produce the greater eonvielion, is lliis ; namely, that in every expedition or voyage to a j»oliir region, at least if a winter residence is contemplated, the quantity of food should he increased, be that as inconvenient as it may. It would be very desirable indeed if the men could aecpiire the taste for (Ireenland food ; since all experience has shown that the large use of oil and fat meats is the true secret of life in these frozen countries, and that the natives cannot subsist without it; becoming diseased, and dying under a more meagre diet. Nor do 1 know that this is impossible ; since it is notorious that where the patients in English hospitals have been treated with lish oil for the cure of rheumatism, they not only soon learn to like it, hni prefer that which is strongest and most offensive. I have Iliile doubt, indeed, thai many of the unhappy men w ho have perished from w intering in these climates, and whose histories are well known, might have been saved if they had been aware of these facts, and had conformed, as is so generally prudent, to the usages and the experience of the natives. 1 know not that I am safe in making another remark respecting the constitutions which peculiarly generate heat, because this is the business of physicians ; but they will be ready enough to correct me if ! am wrong. A ruddy, elastic, florid, or clear complexioned man, has always seemed to me better secured by nature against cold, '.han the reverse constitution ; and the term for the former is a sanguine temperament, w hile that w hich is applied to the other is, a phleg- matic or a melancholic man : but physicians best know how many species there are in this class. At any rate, the pale, and flabby, and sallow, and melancholy-looking men, are not the men for an arctic voyage; they suffer most from cold, whatever individual exceptions there may be ; and therefore 1 suppose that they do not manufacture heat to the same extent as the others. If such men also are slow and melancholy in mind, as 1 believe to be very common, this is most assuredly an additional reason against em- ploying them ; for even w hen these feelings occur in a belter tem- perament, Ihey diminish the power of resisting cold ; as if the exci- ting passions, as Ihey are termed, a fact which I know not how to doubt, led to the generation of heat, and the depressing ones to the reverse. And this, be the theory Irue or not, being practically the fact, inasmuch as hope and confidence make men bear that cold under which the timid and desponding suffer, though perhaps t iril " ^ u TO TUE AKCTIC REGlO?iS. 139 it is unly that the sumeconstilntion leads tu both results, prodiiciiii; hope and displaying energy while it also generates heat, another o.-ggestion offers itself respecting the care to be bestowed on the crew, and the occupations which should be invented for them, as well as in regard to the original choice ; since it thus becomes the interest, not less than the duty, of the commanding officer, to keep up then* spirits and hopes, by any means that he can contrive : as, in doing this, he also knows that he is adopting one of the best ex- pedients against the attacks of the scurvy. I will only add to these remarks, ^vhat may, I trust, be of use to future arctic navigators, namely, that although every expedient in the way of clothing should be adopted for resisting the impressions of external temperature, as these are too well known to recjuire detail, nothing will compensate for the want of the heat-generating energy, but external heat; as that is but too often an imperfect ex- pedient. It is of little use to clothe him who will not, in himself, produce heat; it is like the attempt to warm a piece of ice by means of a blanket; but it is too common a mistake to imagine that the expedient which can only preserve heat is capable of producing it. {Oct. 16) The weather continued fine, but the thermometer fell to fi". We continued to lighten the ship and get out the boilers. 1 ascended the highest accessible hill to the soulh-west, and obtain- ing a good view, conceived that the distant land was continuous from the south-west till it closed in with the west end of the island, though I could not be positive respecting objects so far off, nor be sure that there was not some opening. The land was very rugged, and intersected by ravines, with many small islands scattered along the shore. There w as stil! some clear water to the northward and in the inlet; but the horizon being hazy, we could not see farther than Ilecla and Fury island. The holes in the ice which we had noticed, were now frozen up, and all marks of a current had, of course, disappeared. A strong north wind made the cold very severe on the following day, though the thermometer ranged between 14" and 8''. A single coal fish was taken; and I doubt if it was before known that this species frequented the seas s(» far north; if, indeed, it should not prove a new one. (Oct. 18) It was a beautiful day with calm weather; the ther- mometer was between G" and 8"; but in the evening it fell till it reached one degree only, at seven o'clock. This was by very much 140 SECOM) VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ..t 4 t'|l> mk 1 f I 1 the lowest temperature we had yet experienced. Sunday found all onr men well, and him who had met witli the accident recovered. More than fifty lunar distances were obtained for the longitude. The aurora was seen in the south-east. Our nets continued to hrinij up the welcome shell fish, but not in great numbers. {Oct. 19) The thermometer rose a few degrees as the sun pro- ceeded to the meridian, and, at sunset, fell to 2". It continued calm till evening, when there was a light air. We again obtained lunar distances to the amount of a hundred and twenty, with me- ridian altitudes of the sun and of several stars. A chronometer, intended for the transit observations, was set to mean time. In the course of the evening, the frames belonging to the engine were got out : and I believe the men felt that they were fast ridding them- selves of a nuisance; of an enemy, where they had reckoned on a friend. {Ocl. 20) The fine weather continued, and the temperature fell to two degrees under zero. It was our first minus, and we began to agree that the cold weather was really arrived. Hut it was very tolerable thus far. In the course of the day it rose to plus 7"; but, at night, fell again to minus 9°. The last of the engine was hoisted out ; may I not say that there was not one of us who did not hail this event with pleasure. We could not even look at ils fragments without recollecting what it ought to have been and what it proved to be; nor without reflections, and those not kind ones, on its maker, when we remembered the endless and ever recurring trials of our patience which it had caused, the never ceasing labour of the men in its reparation, the ever renewed hopes, producing ever new disappointments, and the loss of temper, (o most of us, 1 fear, of which it had Ix en the fertile cause. The enemy, however, was at last at our feet; and while it was incumbent on us to store it up. though it would in reality be difficult to say why, were il not from that habit, or feeling, which rebels against absolute wastefulness, 1 believe there was not one present who ever again wished to see even its minutest fragment. {Oct. 21) The Krusenstern was secured yesterday, and at night, an aurora made its appearance. A fish which we believed might b<' a new species, as we had not seen il before, was taken. The ther- mometer was low, ranging between plus and minus 4" : the weather nearly calm. The eroction of a roof over the ship was commen- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 141 y found all recovered. longitude, nlinued lo vs. e sun pro- conliiiued in obtained , with me- rononietcr, time. In iiyinc were ding tliem- ioned on a ;rature fell we hegan t was very IIS 7"; but, fas hoisted id not bail fragments it proved L*s, on its ring trials labour of icing ever s, I fear, ever, was )rc it up, not froni efulness, (I to see at nigbl, might be be ther- weather fommen- .** red. and a white fox shot. We could gel no lunar observations, .ind were not likely to procure them again for the next four months. {Oct. 22) Though the land was much elevated by refraction, this day, it showed us nothing new : the thermometer did not materially vary. It now became necessary to cut away the ice round the ship, in consequence of her having been so much lightened ; that she might icltle to her natural line of flotation. This being done, she rose nine inches; and we proceeded to build up a bank of snow and ice round her, for shelter from the cold. The galley was also moved, and placed in the centre of the men's berths, that the heat from the fire might be more eipially distributed. A tank of plate iron was, farther, placed on the upper deck, over the coppers; and. by this contrivance, the steam, which is a constant annoyance at tiieselow temperatures, was secured and condensed. Another raven was seen ; and our fishery of whelks, though never very productive, was continued daily. {Oct. 2.'5) A fresh breeze rendered the cold very sensible to-day; but its effect was, nevertheless, to raise the thermometer from miinisG" to plus 8" in the course of the day. This wind continued on the following day. w itii drift snow ; the thermometer falling to minus 5", and then rising again as high as plus li*". This is a sure indication of snow in these climates; and accordingly a heavy fall came on at midnight. Some other useful alterations were this day made in the sjiip ; and, among the rest, a pipe was carried from the upper deck to the fire, by means of which that was easily regulated. These things being done, it was found that a very small quantity of fuel was sufficient to keep the lower deck, where the crew lived, dry and comfortable, and to maintain a medium heat of about I5S5", being what I judged the most advantageous one. {Oct. 2")) The snow continuing in the morning the thermometer rose to 18", but began to fall at noon, and, in the evening, was at minus 6". Prayers, and exercise on shore, occupied, as usual, their portions of the [iresent Sunday. We had set a foxtrap yesterday, and today it was found robbed by the dogs. {Oct.^Q) Though the temperature was not materially different this day. a smart gale made (he cold very severe. We therefore hastened »o complete the roofing, which was done by means of the spare sails procured from the Rookwood's and the Fury's stores : and we immediately found tlie advantage of this additional security 14S SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ^ " » % r mu I ■4WA' * .'jfyainsl the cold. Other needful arrangements on the part of the carpenters and engineers, under us in-door employment, when it was especially unsafe for inexperienced men to workout of the ship, lest they should he frosl-hitten. {Qct. 27) After continuing to blow a storm all day, the wind fell at six o'clock, and the weather cleared : after which the snow ceased, and it became calm. We were thus enabled to make con- siderable progress for a time in oiu' snow fortification ; but in the evening it blew as hard as ever, and the thermometer fell to minus 11". Thus it continued till six on the following morning, when it settled and cleared. In the course of this day the temperature sunk to minus 13", being the lowest that had yet occurred. The ship, however, being now completely housed in, we fount! ourselves in a very comfortable position. {Oct. 29) In the course of the preceding night the thermometer rose to plus 5", and, during the day, to 4"; a state of things, as I have just remarked, always attending snow, which accordingly fell in considerable quantity. On the following day, the drift was so great that we could not proceed with our embankment. The changes in the temperature were not so remarkable as to need re- cording here ; but I must remark, that on this, as on almost every preceding occasion, the barometer indicated the coming gale. A while fox was taken in the trap, alive. (Oct. 31) The wind blew still harder, and the thermometer fell to minus IG". At sunset there was a large halo, being but the second that we had seen ; it was, however, only a white one. There W'a., aiierwards an aurora to the southward. The lops of the mountains were considerably bared of their snow by the gale : but the contrast of their dark rocks with the whiteness aronnd, only served to render the aspect of this winter landscape more desolate. The poor for was accidentally strangled : only , however, antici- pating a fate which we should have been obliged to inflict here.r,:i-r, though we did not then foresee it. We had, on this day. completed the first month of our imprison- ment in this dreary and miserable country, and were naturally led to compare our present condition with those of preceding voyagers, and to make some general remarks on various matters, the most im- portant of >yhich I may now record, as briefly as may be. 1 may first note, that in this climate, unlike to Sweden and Nor- ■I'C' TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 143 irt of the , when it F the ship, wind fell the snow nake con- ut in the to minus , when it ture Slink The ship, elves in a rmometer lings, as I ilingly fell ift was so 2nt. The » need re- ^ost every gale. A neter fell but the There ps of the ale : but nd, only desolate, antici- lere.t.icr, mprison- irally hd oyagers, most im- ind Nor- i m I.AT. LONG. MKAN TEMP. OF G**" ■.',.■■ 00" 02" 01' 06" Oct. 1829 . . . . 4- 8", 43t 7-4" 47' 20" llOo 48' 7" Do. 1819 . . . — G-, 50t &]" 11' 27" 83" 11' 0" Do. 1821 . . . 4- 9", 51' 69" 20' 30" 81" 52' 40" Do. 1822 . . . . 4- 9", 79« 730 13' 40" 88o 54' 48" Do. 1824 . . . . 4- 10", 83* way. (he degree of Ihe temperature bears little or no relation to the latitude. This will be sufficiently evident by the brief comparative table which I here insert, relating to our own mean for this month and those which had been formerly found at Melville island, Winter island, Igloolik. and Port liowen. It is not however a very accu- rate comparison ; because, in these cases, the temperatures were observe*! on board the ships, not on the ice; while the allowance of three degrees for that difference is far from sufficient-, my own experience showing that it may amount to even 6°. These are the facts in cpiestion : Viclon'.s position Mclvillo Lslniul. . Winter island. . Ii;loolik .... Port Doweii. . . In the next place . comparing our progress with some preceding ones, it was true that we had not reached so far westward as Mel- ville island ; but we had wrought our way through as much ice, since the extent of this navigation had been 210 geographical miles, as our progress had also betu a very laborious one, and not a little hazardous on more than one occasion. It was now, further, quite ascertained that the tides came from the northward, and were both later and lower when the wind was from the south. We had seen no whales for the last sixty miles, and had never f'dlen in with a walrus. 1 formerly mentioned the (juantity of provisions and fuel that we had rem-naing, which were computed to last till August, 1832. But there uas only one year's allowance of spirits, which was a subject r.ilher of \;i)ngralulalion than otherwise, since there can be no question of their pernicious effects in these frozen climates; one of those bcin,^, I have no doubt, to increase the tendency to scurvy. It was necessary, however, that what we had should be reserved for the future parties on land excursions, where it might often prove of considerable, if temporary service; or, as might become necessary, for our lisein case of shipwreck, and our being condemned to take to the boats ; since this article would then be valuable not merely as an article of diet, but as fuel; or, finallv, under the chance of our f 144 SECOND VOTAGE OF DISCOVERY ''A- ■% ►■«ii l»ein{T iinnble to lihcrale the ship in the sprin{;, and being thus com> polled to continue our investigations by land. Orders were accord- ingly given to stop the use and allowance of grog; while it was very satisfactory to find that these were received without remonstrance. Our roofing had been perfected in this month; but it still re- mained to complete our embankment, and to cover the upper deck with snow. More arrangements than those yet noticed had also been made in the interior of the ship, by constructing a room in the place of the steerage, to receive the men's chests and the apparatus for cooking and baking; while copper flues were carried from them round the whole apartment, in order te convey away the vapour. Over the steam kitchen, oven, and after passage, apertures were made in the u )per deck, on which were placed iron tanks with their openings downward. In these the vapour was received, and became immediately condensed : but though we rather expected that we might have drawn it olT in the shape of water, and had contrived means accordingly, wc found it so generally frozen that these w ere of no use. We found this last ron'rivance to be the best that had yet been adopted ; and chiefly as, by keeping the apartment of the crew dry, it saved the necessity of forcing up the temperature, as had been done on former occasions, for the purpose of keeping the vapour afloat til; it was condensed on the beams and deck. This, too, involvofj a great saving of fuel : since we found that a temperature between 10" and 150" was sufficient to make the place dry, warm, and comfortable, whereas it had, in the ships that preceded us, been necessary to carry it as high as 70". The regulations adopted on other matters were the following; and I point them out , that future adventurers in this country may g.'jjn, without labour, the experience which had now been pur- chased by many successive voyages. It will easily be seen how much of all this was directly useful, for some one or other specific jiiupose, and how far tiie intention was to find occupation for the minds of the men. and exercise for their bodies. The men slept in hammocks, which were taken down at six in (he morning, and hung up at ten at night, being also aired twice a week. The , r^ er deck, being the dwelling floor , was covered w illi hot sand every morning, and scrubbed with sand till eight, when llie men breakfasted. Monday was settled in future as the wash- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l-..", \ thus rom^ ere accord- it was very nonslrance. it still re- iipper deck d had also room in the e apparatus I from them the vapour, rtiires were tanks with jceived, and er expected r, and had frozen that ad yet been e crew dry, »s had been the vapour This, too, emperature dry, warm, ed us, been followinfi[; ountry may been pur- seen how her specific ion for the n at six in ed twice a )vered wilh ight, when the wash- ing day ; and this operation bein^j finished by noon, the linen was dried at the stove. The upper deck havinjj been at length covered with snow two feet and a half in thickness, it was trod down till it became a solid mass of ice. and was then sprinkled >M(h sanii. so as to put on the appearance of a rolled gravel walk. Above this, was the roof already mentioned, of which the canvas sides were continued so low as (o cover those of the ship. The sur- rounding bank of snow, being completed, reached to the ship's gunwale, so that the union of this with the roof formed a perfect shelter from all wind, and thus excluded, very materially, the impressions of the external cold. In the same manner there was a covering of snow to the cabin deck, while the skylight was fitted with double sashes : but the way from the cabin to the deck was not closed, since the frost was not yet so intense as to render that necessary ; the inner doors were merely fitted with ropes and ])ulleys. Wilh respect to the arrangements below, a communication was made from the steerage to the fore part of the space between decks, by means of a door leading first to an antechamber screened oil" by canvas, and then to a space, similarly about five feel scpiare. Into this last the men descended immediately from the deck : and thus passing the antechamber into the dwelling apartment, they were not exposed to any sudden change of temperature. In tiiis way, after first ridding themselves of snow, they were compelle«l to leave all tiieir dresses, which might still contain snow or mois- ture, in the first division, or chamber; thence advancing into the canvas apartment, which further served as a guard to prevent the entrance of the cold external air into the steerage, their dwellitjg place. During the day, including the space between six in the morning and nine at night, the steam kitchen was found sufficient both for warmth and cooking ; and, in the night, the baking oven served the same purpose, while it also heated the sand for the morning's use. As it is a pernicious plan, being a very clumsy and inconve- nient one, even in the domestic arrangements of England, to supply, from the doors, the air required for the fires, I caused a large copper pipe to be brought from without to the fireplace. Thus, not only was the external air preven'"J from making a cold '* draught" through the room, but the pipe itself became sufli- ^I^M.w h W HI* 146 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY * ft;iffl U'^ .;■ m% 'vU i''1 - cicntly warmed to assist in keeping dry the air within this principal apartment. By tliese means the vapour was enahh^d more easily to ascend and settle in the external condensers, instead of becomin(^ water in the room itself; while, what was not less important, the fires were kept burning with a uniform degree of strength. In proof of the effect of the utility of the condensers, I may now remark that it was our practice to clear them out every Saturday, and that the quantity of ice they contained averaged about a bushel a day : the represen- tative of a (juantity of vapour llrst, and of a corresponding propor- tion of water afterwards, that would not only have been extremely annoying but truly pernicious. In continuation of our wintering system, every atom of rigging was taken down, cleaned, marked, and stowed away. In arranging the duties and the victualling of the men, the following plan was adopted; the whole crew bring divided into five watches. The three leading mates, the engineer, and the harpooner, had, each, with one seaman, the charge of the deck in their respective turns : their duty being, to keep a look out respecting fire, wild animals, and natives, to register the direction and strength of the wind, with the appearances of the sky and weather, and the temperature, as well as the state of the tides and the occurrence of auroras. The officers, with their servants, the carpenters, the armourers, and the cook, had sufficient other duties in their respective departments. The breakfast, of which the hour has been already mentioned, consisted of cocoa or lea ; and the dinner was at noon. When the weather permitted anything to be done outside of the ship, the men worked, after that meal, till three or four o'clock : while, when that was impossible, they were obliged to walk for a certain num- ber of hours on deck, beneath the roof. Their tea was at five o'clock; and, after this, they attended an evening school, commen- cing at six, and lasting till nine; which being closed, and the ham- mocks slung, they retired to bed at ten. On Sunday, no work was allowed. The men were mustered, and inspected in their best clothes, by ten o'clock; after which there were prayers and a sermon. To occupy the remainder of the day, there was a collection of tracts which had been presented to ns by Mrs. Enderby, of Blackheath, proving a judicious as well as a useful gift. But, at six, there was a Sunday school : the occupation m i ■■* It principal o ascend water in ires were )of of the lat il was ( quantity represen- f propor- exlremely )f rigging arranging plan was lies. The lad, each, ve turns : lI animals, vind, with jrature, as ras. The s, and the ments. icnlioned, When the ship, the lile, when tain num- as at five commen- the hara- |. I TO THE ARCTIC UlitilOJJS. 147 on this evening being the reading of portions of scripture by the men. while the day was concluded by psalms and by the lessons appointed in the liturgy. Of the good effect of this system of reli- gious duties and of instruction. I could entertain no doubt; for the men seemed truly to feel that they all belonged to one family; evin- cing mutual kindneSvS, with a regularity and trantpiillity of behaviour which are not very general on board of a ship. The days of baking for the men were on Sundays and Thursdays, and those for the officers every other evening excluding Sundays : all these regulations having regard to the collateral uses we might derive from the heat necessary for those purposes. The allowance of provisions to the men and the officers, issued for fourteen days, is seen in the following table. jmustered, ter which Ider of the ited to us [well as a jccupation 14S SECOPCD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY "1 a as O h ir. U o H a n r/3 PS c C PS & a O H c o Besides Ihis, vinegar was served as it was required ; but, more rarely, preserved soups, as it was thought best to reserve them for the coldest weather, or for particular occasions. There were also lemons and tamarinds for those who might be unwell. This portion of the ship's duty appertained to Mr. Thom, who TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 141* hail also Ihc charge of the log, as master not less than \>mm' : tof^other with that of the barometer, ami its attached ihermometer. The chronometers were now nmler the charge of Commander Iloss; who also took a joint duty with myself in the navi|;alion and llie different classes of observation : with the farther undivided cimimantl over the department of natural history. CHAPTER VIV. THE MONTH (.OMMENCES STORMY \rUO\ lvMK>T l> IIS I'HOGUESS— REMARKS ON THE THERMOMETER AND J5AUOMETER — (►CCURP' HE OF A SPLE>'DID AURORA BOREALIS— SI MMARY OF THE MO>Tl. I • t1 (i\ov. 1) The most severe storm that wc had yet experienced came on this day ; bursting suddenly from the north, w ith a heavy tail of snow, and the thermometer under zero. Sunday was spent as usual, except that it w as impossible to take exercise on shore, i'herr was an aurora at night, but not brilliant. The gale then subsided, and was followed by a line day (JVoi'. 2): when, although the tem- })erature was at minus 11", the cold was by no means disa;;reeable. Though the distant horizon was not very clear, we could sec that thr ice was partially broken up by the storm ; some clear water appear- ing in the south-eastern (piarter. In the evening of this day tin- wind came to the westward, and there was another aurora, of short duration. (Nor. 3) There was no material change of wind or u talher this day, the thermometer being at minus 9°. We found traces of fo.xes during our walk on shore. 3Iore was done towards •' minus 10". We had now ceased to take the shellfish for some days. ( IVov. 5 ) The morning was fine, and as is then unusual, the temperature got up to minus 1 •». Four willow partridges were killed . On the following day ( Nov. 6 ) the wind was fresh from the north- ward, but not so cold as to impede the necessary work. An exa- mination of the condensers proved that they collected, jointly, a bushel of ice in the day, as I noticed in the summary of last month to be the expected quantity : and we could not but be highly pleased at reflecting, that had it not been for the collection and condensa- tion of this bushel, we should have been ourselves the condensers, and been involved in vapour and internal rain, to an equivalent amount, all the twenty-four hours. It is always desirable to be relieved from suffering ; but it is infinitely more gratifying, when we know that we have been benefited by the exertion of our own invention and industry. These are among the true rewards of ex- ertion, in all the circiimslimces of life ; and the self congratulation which follows is more than pardonable. (IVov. 7) In spite of a brisk wind from the north-edit, with much drift snow, our officers contrived to kill two ptarmigans ; but, notwithstanding such a breeze from this quarter, the thermo- meter rose to plus 3°. I must confess that these vacillations in the heat were not always intelligible ; we knew, generally, what a pe- culiar wind ought to produce, why an overcast sky should raise the temperature, or a fall of snow make the air comparatively warm, and why also we ought to expect the severest cold with s clear sky. But all our causes sometimes failed us ; and I can only now con- clude, as I did then, that our knowledge of the atmosphere and its conditions is as yet not sufficient to explain even the changes of temperature ; failing us, as it docs, in every thing else, when we attempt to lay down those general rules, without the certainty of which, there is no sound knowledge. Nor is this less true of what has been deemed most certain, namely, the changes in the barometer ; and if what we had occasion at different times to observe, be at present inexplicable, I can only remind my philosophical readers, that it has often, and amply, been confirmed, by the reports of La Perouse and the experience of navigators beyond number. The mercury has risen when it should liave fallen ; and it has sunk when there was present every reason that has been assigned for its rise. It has falli^n with winds from M TO THE ARCIIC REGIONS. 151 the cast and the north ; and also { for this has I»oen a reason given for its rise ) with winds from the land ; whiU* it has risen under the reverse circumstances, bcinp, the received ones for its fall. Thus has a low barometer bronglit fair weather, and a high one rain ; while I have also seen it fall, with an east wind, bringing violent rain, when, on coming round to the west, the mercury rose, even more than half an inch, within a very short lime, and with line and settled weather. In a naulical view , these must indeed be consi- dered as exceptions : I should be very sorry, among others, were not this instrument slill of much use on board of ships, especially in those seas and those seasons in which sudden and violent gales arise : but if its prognostics are not absolute, and not therefore such as to be an excuse for inattention to other circumstances, or for the omission of constant watchfulness at sea, so must it be recollected, that, in philosophy, such exceptions prove our ignorance of laws which we pretend to know. It is a silly maxim, as it is a false one, popularly rooted as it is, that the exception proves the rule ; the slightest exertion of common sense should show, that nothing can be a law^ in philosophy if it admits but of one exception. ( Nov. 8 ) On the preceding evening, the wind blew hard from the northwest ; but the morning of Sunday was beautiful, with a brilliant sky, without a cloud. Divine service was performed, and the exercice on shore was enforced as on former occasions : this being intended as a standing order for every Sunday on which it might be practicable. All were well, except the armourer, whose constitution could not bear the climate, lie ought not, indeed, to have been with us ; having been destined for our consort, the John, as the* armourer of that ship was intended for the Victory. Ifnluckily, that man was one of those who joined the mutineers ; and though I had intended to send the present ailing and feeble person home by the tirst whaler that we should meet, not one had fallen in our way. ( Nov. 9 ) The fine weather continued, with the thermometer at minus 10". A shooting party had no success; seeing merely some hares, and the track of a bear. On the next day ( Nov. 10) the same party was soon driven in, by the thermomether falling to minus 20°, though the weather continued fine. At night it was 22" minus ; being the lowest yet experienced. In the middle of the next day {Nov. 11 ) it came to blow, and, in the evening, abundance of \ i0d SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m snow fell ; both Ihc force of Ihe gale and the quantity of snow in- creasing till midnight. Thus we were prevented from getting some occultations by the moon, in Taurus, on which we had cal- culated, and for which we had made preparation. ( lYov. 12 ) After blowing with increased fury, the gale became somewhat more moderate towards the evening. It is worthy of remark, that the range of the thermometer, in the last thirty-six hours was 48". If the ice was at all broken up by this gale, it was a mailer which we had no means of discovering, as there were now but three hours of daylight. But it was likely ; for the wind com- ing from the north-east to the south-east in the evening, there was an unusual high tide, and the ice near us burst open with a tre- mendous noise, admitting the water above it. The thermometer at midnight was as high as 26" plus. ( IVov. 13 ) The temperature did not begin to fall till after noon on this day, and then very gradually. This was a long duration of what may be called a high heat at this season of the year ; since it had been above 24" plus, for about eighteen hours : but the more remarkable fact is, that there was a north-easterly wind all the time ; confirming the observations I have just made respecting the obscure causes by which temperature la regulated. According to general experience in these regions, the cold ought to have been severe. As to the Ihermometrical observations themselves, there can be no doubt of their accuracy, because they were made on shore, remote from the influence of the ship, while the instruments were the same that had been used on former expeditions. It was almost amusing to find the sportsmen complaining of the heat ; and, with the snow that fell, there was some rain. ( Nov. 14 ) Though our sport was without any success, the po- sition of the sun to-day and the clearness of the air, when on the hill we had so often visited, gave me a more extensive view of the distant land than I had ever yet obtained ; displaying a range of mountains more remote than those which we had yet seen. The colouring was admirable this day, as it had been for a short period in the afternoon before. It was not only that the clouds and the sky in the south presented all those rich summer tints of evening which are occasionally seen in our own country, and those hues contrasted by the deep, dark, calm purple of the northern horizon, but, in addition to the aerial tints and reflec- ■4 TO THE AKCTIC REGIONS. I'lS lions of the snow of the mountains, emulating or exceetling thosr on the clouds, the hills near the sun were often splemliil with prismatic colours as it passed along them in its course. In reality, the noonday sun of these regions is an evening sun; and it is not surprising, therefore, that its whole diurnal progress exhibits but the appearances of a similar sun in our own latitudes. I had reason to believe, from the colour of the sky, that there was some open sea to the northward : and we could distinctly see one clear space of about a mile in diameter,, not a very great way from us, together with some smaller pools, the effects of the late storm. {Nor, V6) The weather continued calm, and not cold; since the thermometer did not fall lower than 1°, and rose as high as 8". A very little snow fell : but, on shore, the valleys and ravines were already quite filled, as the far larger part of the hills and of the other ground in general was covered ; only a solitary black rock appearing here and there, wherever the gale had acted with most violence. Traces of foxes and hares were now seen every day, by the parties on shore; but that was all. The Sunday was spent as usual. The sun had not been seen yesterday, and neither sun nor moon was visible this day ( Nov. 16): the weather was nearly as mild. In the night, however, it fell to minus i" and continued nearly the same on this day. On Monday, the seventeenth of November, a very singular ap- pearance of the sun occurred, with an effect loo incredible and absurd to admit of representation, splendid as it was to the eye. The centre was darkened by a cloud, while the circumference was surrounded by a belt, under which the rays shot out in such a manner as to give it the semblance of a star of the order of the Kath. If there was any one on board who imagined that this appearance was ominous of that, or any other knighthood, to any of us, the secret was kept; fortunately for the prognosticator . who might have lost his fame by trusting to a fallacious omen ; though , by a very singular coincidence, it has been accomplished on the very day that the correction of this sheet, in passing through the press, enables me to add its fulfilment. {Nov. 18) It was still mild; but, from the force of the wind, there was enough drift, on the hills, to prevent shooting : the thermo- meter reached plus 7° at midnight. {Nov. 19) Our school was com- pletely organized, for instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic. 0.. l.-)4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I I S ' 'I ■>k^ i -r»*» f ' 'in inatbemalics, and navigation; and the men being divided into classes, the necessary materials and books were distributed. Out of the eighteen, three had not learned to read and write; but the want of arithmetic was very general : the three mates were capable of commencing with astronomy and navigation. No compulsion was here necessary ; all were volunteers ; and the school hours always terminated by reading two chapters from the bible, toge- ther with the evening psalms. (IVov. 20) There had been neither sun, moon, nor stars to be seen these two last days, and the weather still continued gloomy, with little wind and less snow. The thermometer reached 9°, and averaged U" during the twenty-four hours. A white hare was shot. The following morning {I¥ot\ 21) was equally dull and dark, with occasional snow; though the moon made her appearance, once or twice, for a very short time. At midnight the tempe- rature fell to minus 1". A female fox was taken in the trap to- day, and was brought on board for the purpose of being tamed. A very faint aurora was seen in the south-eastern horizon. Sunday {IVov. 22) was calm and clear, with the thermometer as low as minus 9°. In the course of their walk after service, the men found the tracks of reindeer, but nothing more. On Monday {IVov. 23) the thermometer continued falling till it reached minus 16". Intending to pursue the tracks of yesterday's reindeer, Com- mander Ross proceeded for a certain distance along shore, and thus found, for the first time, that the south-west point of the nearest land was insulated from the main by a channel leading to the west- ward, but without being able to ascertain how far it penetrated. The wind shifted to the southward ; and the men found work in extricating the engine boilers, which, being on the ice, had been partially buried in a new layer formed by the breaking through of the water a few days before. {Nov. 24) An overcast sky caused the thermometer to rise a few degrees, but the charige was only temporary. There was enough of work for the da; , m cutting out the various ironwork of the engine, as well as the whale boat, which was in the same predica- ment. A cairn on the island, intended as a guide to the ship for those who might lose their way, was completed ; and a thermometer, constructed purposely for us, was fixed on it. There was a brilliant aurora to the south-west, extending its red radiance as far as the ■;■*' .;*i « m I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 155 zenith. The wind vacillated on Ihe following day [IVor. itij), and there was a still more brilliant on<' in the evening, increasing in splendonr till midnight, and persisting till the following morning ( Tor. 26 ). It constituted a bright arch, the extremilies of which seemed to rest on two opposed hills, while its colour was that of the full moon, and itself seemed not less luminous; though the dark and somewhat blue sky by which it was backed, was a chief cause, I have no doubt, of the splendour of its effect. We can conjecture what the appearance of Saturn's ring must be to the inhabitants of that planet; but here the conjecture was per- haps verified ; so exactly was the form and light of this arch w hat we must conceive of that splendid planetary appendage when seen crossing the Saturnian heavens. It varied however, at length, so much as to affect this fancied resemblance ; yet with an increase of brilliancy and interest. While the mass, or density, of the lumi- nous matter was such as to obscure the constellation Taurus, it pro- ceeded to send forth rays in groups, forming such angular points as are represented in the stars of jewellery, and illuminating the objects on land by their coruscations. Two bright nebula?, of the same matter, afterwards appeared beneath the arch ; sending forth sinular rays, and forming a still stronger contrast with the dark sky near the horizon. About one o'clock it began to break up into fragments and nebulae; the coruscations becoming more frequent and irregular, until it suddenly vanished at four. {Nov. 27) It being now the spring tides, the water flowetl through the firehole, as it is termed, (being an aperture made for procuring water in case of the occurrence of fire on board,) and covered the ice near the ship in such a manner, that we were obliged to make a fresh embankment round it, to prevent this inconvenience. The thermomjter fell, in the evening, to minus 27", and yet the air did not feel very cold. According to our latitude, the sun should have disappeared for the winter, yesterday ; but, unluckily, for the last three days, there was a cloudy horizon which prevented us from seeing it. It was not, indeed, certain that we might not see it once or twice more, from the effect of refraction. The twenty-eighth was, however, no clearer than the preceding days, but the thermo- meter rose to ai", minus. {Nov. 29) It fell again however to 27", and the cloudy horizon at noon once more prevented a sight of the sun. Every thing proceeded i tar ^i:*^'' 153 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY as was usual on Sundays. Monday ( IVoi\ 30) was the clearest and the calmest day we had experienced during the month, but it was ;dso very cold, the thermometer falling to minus 37", and thus far ojitdoing whatever we had yet felt. Once more, the meridian, or (he rising and setting sun as it may be called, was obscured by a rloud, so perfectly, from the ship, that no sight of it could beobtain- (h1 above the fog bank which lined the horizon. But one or two glimpses of it were procured from the higher part of the island, whence, at noon, it was just able to clear that low cloud, for an instant or two. Thus closed the month of November, and, as we calculated, with the last sight of the sun which we were likely to have this winter. It was still pleasing to find that it was a beautiful day, in spite of the actual cold, which was really by no means severe to the feelings. We had reason to believe that the ptarmigans were now quitting this coast, and migrating to the southward, with the intention of following the sun in its course. Comparing now the mean tempe- rature of this month with that which had occurred in preceding expeditions, we found no reason to expect a more severe winter than is usual in these climates, notwithstanding the appearance of severity at the commencement, and the very low temperature on the last days. It was also now discoverable, that the highest temperatures had been with the north-easterly winds, and the lowest with the south- erly ones : being the exact reverse of what was to be expected, and of what had occurred in former voyages. The only explanation that we could suggest, whether right or wrong, was, that there was open water to the northward, and that the whole southern quarter was a mass of ice, whether on land or at sea ; in either of which cases, the prospect of future progress in this direction was far from flattering. The weather was such all this month as to deprive us of the power of making any observations on the occultations of stars by the moon, as well as all others, of whatever nature ; and the men were too much occupied with more indispensable duties to admit of our erecting observatories for magnetic and astronomical observa- tions on shore. It was most satisfactory, however, to find, that the effects we had intended by all these arrangements had been attained. The system of comfort and economy which had been planned was TO THE ARCTIC REGIO.NS. 15; as perfect as could lie drsired; and the salisfaclion of the men, wiili these things, with each other, and with their officers, could not have heen greater. Under their system of education, they liad improved with'surprising rapidity; while it was easy to perceive a decided change for the heller in their moral and religious characters; even, as I have reason to lieiieve, lo that which is always rendered difficult from long habits, the abolition of swearing. CHAPTER XV. REPEATED OCCURRENCE OF \L'ROR\ BOREALIS— CHRISTMAS UAV — SUMMARY OF THE MONTU — REMARKS AT THE TERMI^ATIO?^ OI THE YEAR 1829. ( Dec. 1 ) We saw the upper limb of the sun to-day, for a short time, from the island ; the atmosphere being unusually clear, it was elevated about two minutes of a degree. This was the result of refraction ; since its astronomical disappearance had occurred six days ago. We were now also but three weeks from the shortest day : so that, with the same circumstances at its next rising, we should not be condemned to more than six weeks of its total absence. We obtained the altitudes of several stars. The thermo- meter stood from 31» to 37° minus : the barometer at 30 inches. {Dec. 2) A black cloud in the southern horizon would have prevented the sun from being seen, < l;'>:ugh it had still risen above that line as it did the day before. The magnetic observatory was erected, and the other one commenced. At midnight {Dec. 3 ) there was a magnificentarchof an aurora, butit was only five degrees high. The colour was a light yellow, and it emitted rays; finally breaking up and disappearing about one o'clock. The day was calm , and the sky clear, but with a cloudy horizon. The thermometer rose to minus 19°, and, on the following day {Dec. 4), to 14° ; with light clouds above, and deep red ones near the passage of the sun. We now com- pared the mercurial and the spirit thermometers, as we might soon be '3^ 158 SECOaD VOYAfit OF DISCOVERY Si f called on to depend on the hitler alone ; and the necessary correc- tions were recorded for adoption. ( Dvv, !{ ) A stronj; wind rendered this morning very cold, llnl the wind shiflinjy from the north-east to the south-west, it fell four degrees lower ; confirming llic remarks already made on the siih- ject. An ermine came on hoard, (piite starved, and was taken and fed hy the crew. {Dec. 6) Sunday was very stormy and squally, with snow, and the Iherniomeler began to rise when the wind IVII. The day was kept as usual. A strong breeze blew all 3Ionday {Dec. 7), till the evening, when it became moderate and clear ; the thermometer falling from minus 12" to 21". The moon was clear, for the first lime during a considerable period ; but as it passed over no stars, it gave us none of the observations that we wished. ( Dec. 8 ) The calm weather was succeeded by a breeze from the north-east, and the thermometer rose to minus IG". On the follow- ing day {/>^c. 9) there were light winds and hazy weather. The observatory being finished, we obtained some occultalions of stars by the moon. The temperature txll to 26" minus, in the evening, and there was an insignificant aurora. On the tenth there was a halo round the moon, sending out rays to a great distance, in the form of a cross. This was repeated on the following day {Dec. 11 ) ; and the thermometer during the three days ranged between minus lG"and 27". A transit of Aldebaran was obtained. {Dec. 12) There was little to note this day : The temperature and weather having little changed, and the men's employments remaining as usual. The following {Deo. 13) was spent in the usual manner fixed for Sunday. It is remarkable, that through the last week, the state of the weather allowed the fires to be discon- tinued for eight hours every night, without lowering the heat between decks beyond the degree which had been fixed on as the best. On the following day, Monday {Dec. 14), the thermometer was generally at minus 13"; and we were again annoyed by the water overflowing the ice. The weather was -hazy, and mild to the feelings, both on this day and the following morning (Dec. 1{>); on which there was a large halo round the moon. But the wind rose, so that it became so cold as to prevent the men from working on the ice, while the thermometer sunk also to minus 24". {Dec. 16) The same wind, with an equally low temperature, con- tinued to impede all out of door work ; but, on the 17th, the westerly TO THE ARCTIt; REGIO?lS. 160 ry rorrcc- utd. Jlijt it fell four II llu' sul*- lakeii niKi il squally, wind fell. II Monday Moar ; the was clear, it J massed 'c wished. : from the hefollow- tier. The IS of stars ; evening, ['re was a ce, in the Dec. 11); en minus [iperature loyments nt in the ough the e discon- the heal •n as the mometer d by the Id to the ec. IS); le wind tvorking re, con- vesterly ■m m I wind came round to the east, and it was then followed fiy a great increase of cold, when the thermometer at length fell to .17"* minus. At this point the mercury froze; whether from being alloyed, or from the instrument having been ill graduated, we had no means of ascertaining; though the former was probable, as some other (]uick- silver which we had on board did not freeze. There was another beautiful aurora this day. The ice round the ship was much rent l)y the tide, but not so as to allow the water to overdow. ( Dec. 18 ) There had been a short calm, which was 8»iee(M'ded by another easterly breeze ; and the thermometer then rose to mi- nus 28". Clouils obstun*ed the aurora of yesterday, though it was still partially visible, as if occupying the whole space from east to west. On the 19th the thermometer went on rising till it reached 17"; but it was far colder, as there was a smart breeze, until after noon, when it became calm and pleasant. There wag no success in shooting : all animals seemed to have nearly deserted this part of the coast. Our carpenter being a musician, I ought already to have said that the men were permitted to dance on the Saturday nights; holidays of this nature having always been found acceptable, and avantageous; while it was also, necessarily, a school holiday. ( Dec. 20) The aurora still continued ; and, in want of other variety, it afforded us amusement amid this wearisome uniformity. There was much snow drift ; and the wind rendered it so cold that we could not expose ourselves in any manner beyond a few mi- nutes ; the thermometer being at minus 20". After the aurora had ceased, it recommenced at night in a more brilliant form, with bright flashes amid its other varieties, disappearing a little after midnight. The clearness of the sky over head was such, that we could see perfectly well in the cabin at midday, even through the double skylight, though it was covered by snow. Outside the ship, the smallest print could be read distinctly. Sunday was occupied in the usual manner. { Dec. 21 ) The weather continued bright ; and though the wind changed from the north-west to the north-east, it became calm. The air felt mild, as is generally the case in those circumstances ; the thermometer being at minus 16". The horizon was so clear that every thing on it was visible ; and thus we saw all around, more perfectly than ever, all the land that we had seen at several times be- fore. On the next day {Dec. 22) it was the same, and we obtained, ido SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVIRV I '1 ^ i 'V from llio liilLs above, a complclc view of the hori/on, i»arll(:iilaily to the southward : where the coloiirini; of the sky was most various and splendiil ; hein{; a Htter 8ul»ject of paiiilin||[ than of descriptioii. if it was indeed within the limits of art. Mneh of the snow was blown away from the summits of the hills, so as to leav<' the brown and bare roeks visible. {Dec. 2.")) The morning eommenced with an overeast sky and a breeze, but it soon became calm, and was followed by an aiu'ora of sliort duration. The same weather continued the next day (Dec. 2i). and the clearness of the sky allowed us to see stars of the first magni- tude during the brightest part of the twenty-four hours, including, of course, the hour of noon. Venus was also seen in the soutlurn quarter, displaying a bright golden colour. There was again ;in aurora : another to add to a succession of these appearances more regular and durable than any which had been ex])crienced in the former voyage to this climate. ( Dec. 2") ) It was Christmas day. There are few places on the civilized earth in which that day is not, perhaps, the most noted of Ihe year; to all, it is at least a holiday ; and there are many to whom it is somewhat more. The elements themselves seemed to have de- termined that it should be a noted dav to us, for it commenced wilh a niostbeautiful and splendid aurora, occupying the whole vault a!)0ve. At first, and for many hours, it displayed a succession of arches, gradually increasing in altitude as they advanced from the east and proceeded towards the western side of the horizon ; while the suc- cession of changes was not less brilliant than any that we bad for- merly witnessed. The church service allotted for this peculiar day was adopted; but, as is the etiquette of the naval service, the holiday was also kept by an unusually liberal dinner, of which, roast beef from our Galloway ox, not yet expended, formed the es- sential and orthodox portion. I need not say that the rule against grog was rescinded for this day, since, without that, it would not have been the holiday expected by a seaman. The stores of the iMU'y rendered us, here, even more than the reasonable service we might have claimed ; since they included minced pies, and, what would have been more appropriate elsewhere, though abundani'v natural here, iced cherry brandy with its fruit; matters, howeve/ , of amusement, when w'e recollected that we were rioting in the luxuries of a hot London June, without the heat of a ball in Gros- TO THE AUCilC REGIONS. 101 vrnor Sqiinro to j»;lve them value, and rrally \>ilh(nit .my cspocial ilcsirc for swt.TliiU'als of so coolini; a iialiirc. I Ih'Iu'vc llial it was a happy (lay for all tlic vvvw : and happy days had a moral valuo with IIS. liulo sus|M!(-t('d liy IIkksc whose lives, of iiiiiforiuily, and of uni- form ease, peaee, and luxury, one or all, render them as insensihle to those hard-won enjoyments, as unobservant of their elfeetson the minds of men. To disiday all our (lat;s, was a matter of eoiirse; and the brillianey of Venus was a speetaele whieh was naturally eonlemplated as in harmony with the rest of the day. Christmas day was followed hy a ealm and elear morninj; with the thermometer ranging from minus 18" to ;24". A few observations by the transit instrument were taken, and there was another aurora. This continued till ei};ht on the followini; morninf;, and the thermo- meter sank to minus Zi". {Doc. ^7) ileini; Sunday, no work was done. There was little chanjje, and nothing new. on the following day; except that the temperature rose several degrees. On the twenty-ninth, it went dow n as low as 37" minus, so lliat the sus- pected mercury froze again; but. being ealm weather, the cold was not felt to be very severe. {Dec. 30) On this day we saw one hare, liaving seen two yester- day; 80 that all the animals had not disappeared. There was very good light during the day, from ten till half after three; and, in the course of it, the temperature rose to minus 20°. There was also a faint aurora ; and some transits of stars were observed. On the following morning {Dec. 31) the sky was overcast; but the weather fell mild, and the thermometer rose twelve degrees. We found, on shore, the footprints of a wolf, which seemed to be travelling northward, having passed the ship at no great distance. Our chase of it ended in tracking it two miles, when we lost its traces. Thus ended the month of Decenil>er, and the year 1849. The temperature had maintained, like the preceding one, where the general results are tabulated, a medium ratio among those apper- taining to the former voyages in the same mouth, lincertain as temperature here, as elsewhere, must be, when examined under short periods, uncertain as even the monthly means should be, in different years, when we know how the general characters of those years differ, it is a remarkable circumstance, that the means of all the latitudes and longitudes of Melville island, Igloolik. Winter island, and Port Bowen, give nearly the actual situation of the ! li Ml I 169 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I? *^'l'';' Victory at Felix Harbour, while the temperature there also agrees with the mean temperature of these four positions ; indicating thereby a gradual relation of temperature, which is at Variance with a popular theory on that subject. The observatory, I must now remark, w as built on a much better plan than that of former years. Being larger, as well as more commodious, the breath of the observers was not so ready to con- dense on the instruments. Our transit instrument was also on a much larger scale, being of thirty-six inches; while its position had been perfectly verified by observations on circumpolar stars. AVith respect, however, to observations in general, it had not been a fortunate month. During its northern declination, the moon had been always obscured by clouds, and thus disabled us from obtain- ing the usual lunar distances. We had still to hope that January would be more favourable, as we were in an excellent state of pre- paration for ihe observations that we were desirous of making. On the aurora borealis which we had so often seen, no experiments could be made, from the state of the weathei and the force of the winds at those times. I do not here note the state of the barometer ; as I have seldom also mentioned it in the journal. It is a fitter subject for an appen- dix and e table; where the whole can be seen together, on a simple inspection, and where it can also be compared with the tempe- ratures, the winds, and the weather, at the same time : circum- stances to which these observations owe the better part of their value. With these it will be found in approximation, in the tables on this subject. I need only here say, that this instrument was regularly registered four times in the twenty-four hours; being, with some others, that which was used in fornier voyages, and fur- nished by the liberality of the Admiralty. The magnetic arrange- ments furnished nothing worthy of record. In the crew, it was highly satisfactory to find that not the slightest accident had occurred from the frost; as, with equal care, we hoped to avoid them in future; though quite aware that all care was sometimes unavailing, since the mere turning of an angle after a progress through an inoffensive temperature, might instantaneously expose us to an unforeseen blast, to some partial or casual current of air, with an effect so sudden as to be unavoidable ; while the sufferer himself is the only one who does not know what has hap- ! Hcil'>'* TO TllE ARCTIC REGIONS. 163 pened, and, if alone, may therefore l>e irremediably frozen. Witii this general good state of health, it was painful to sec that the poor armourer was approaching to his end ; being, however, equally con- scious of the inevitable event, and prepared to meet what he had for some time expected. liut it was a destiny that he could not long have protracted, though he had remained at home; and we had no reason to think that it had been accelerated by the voyage or the climate. The trial of another month continued to satisfy us of the goodness of our internal arrangements; nothing had failed, and there was nothing to alter. We were especially pleased with the success of the apparatus for condensing the vapour from within : the principle of which, it is evident, is similar to that of the condenser in Watt's engine, different as the circumstances are. The proof of its efficacy had been ample : but I must now note, in correction of the first statement respecting the quantity of ice collected weekly in the three condensers, that it was subject to considerable variations. I originally stated it at about a bushel in the day, for the whole : that being the result of our first trials, before we had fully regulated the production and the average of the heat between decks. But in the course of these attempts at discovering and maintaining the best temperature, it was found to vacillate; the produce being in some weeks scarcely four bushels : while we easily ascertained that the quantity increased with augmentation of the internal heat, and re- markably so on the days w hen the washed linen was dried ; as a little consideration will show to have been a necessary consequence. In this increase of the heat there was no advantage ; and as the tem- perature first adopted was found unnecessarily high for comfort or use, it was reduced to an average of 415", while the ice then produced weekly, amounted to a mean of four biishels or less. It is not all, that the men were thus made comfortable, and the interior, with its various materials, kept dry. All necessity for pla- cing stoves in the hold and in remote corners ceased ; and while there was thus a great saving of labour and inconvenience, and not improbably of hazard, the consumption of fuel was materially dimi- nished. Every one knows that those points had engaged the atten- tion of all the former navigators in these climates; and it was, there- fore, also a source of self-gratulation, that we had been the first to succeed, and that too by means as simple and little expensive as they I •■ % ^vJ^ vm^ 164 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY were rigidly philosophical. That I here point out this expedient, in future, to ships, in general, navijjating the northern seas, on whatever pursuit, would be to little purpose, were it not as easy of adoption as it is intelligible, without any farther description than the general one already given. The school had continued to engage the men's affections; and their continued improvement both in knowledge and in religious and moral feelings, was evident. It would have been valuable, even though it had found no more than an occupation : and, in some manner or other, we contrived to be always occupied. The pursuit of game was indeed an unproductive one, but it was still exercise, and it was variety ; while we amused ourselves with hope, in defect of hares: often traced, seldom seen, and so seldom shot, that our sporting book was nearly a blank. In some manner or other, however, the last three months, constituting the whole period of our durance up to this point, had passed away without weariness, and had indeed been almost unfelt ; while, I may add, that we had been under no necessity of inventing any idle amusements for the purpose of killing time. Those among the men who were ambi- tious, thought, I believe, that it had passed too quickly: since they foresaw that the duties of the summer days would render it neces- sary to interrupt the school, before they had made the progress of which they were so desirous. The retrospect of the past year presented a mixed picture of good and evil : as if, indeed, this is not the history of human life at large. The expedition itself was at one time a thing almost beyond hope ; it had been fitted and dispatched by the spirited and liberal "Lon- don merchant," whose name can never be forgotten. Unexpected, and afterwards unavoidable and incorrigible misarrangeraents, had ' vexed, detained, and disappointed us, had filled the despondent w ith fears and forebodings, and had not left even the more confi- dent without anxiety. Yet the end was far better than we had hoped; it was better than any one could have expected ; since we had outstripped in distance our predecessors through the same strait, notwithstanding all the advantages, in time and in all else, which they had possessed over us. We had been in frequent and immi- nent peril, and had been rescued : yet not by efforts of our own : and thus we hoped for the future protection which we should still more labour to deserve. If, thus far too, we had pursued the TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 165 "chimera of a north-west passage," as it has been termed, there were hopes before us, of following it out to a much farther result; of ascertaining, at last, this unknown portion of the American geography, which, I presume, has been long the limit of the hopes of all sensible men on this subject. We were in an advanced posi- tion, with a new summer about to give its earliest notices in no long time ; and when the period should come to set us free, every new step would be a new discovery. If our reflections also turned to England, it was not to regret an idle promise that we might possibly return by the new year ; but we were disappointed that we had found no means of sending an account of ourselves since our departure from the Danish settlement at Holsteinborg, in July. We had met no whalers; but, consi- dering what our course and the season had been, these ships could easily inform our friends, that not to have met with us was no reason for doubling of our security ; while all knew that we were provided with a winter home, with all indeed that our own homes could have furnished, in the wreck and the stores of the Fury. I VJ, 16G SECOIVD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m s o u o o o H M » n 00 es" o H u O n ■a «> « 3 J. •3 C *5 f « lis u £ « V P. $'" vj« -NT 1— > II II II ^ ^ « ?; im (M U9 -a ■a© H O 1^ =" 1^ IS ** iR ICO l«3 ig; •^ !-• t^ '> t^ I . , . l«lfcc<'?C 1 o vV in 1 1^ 1 1 ■ w + ■3" -o 00 B ii sc ^- re ^ 4^ w « « k« (m PQ i^ — Q g 5i 4J U >• '^^ u t> g ■Sc a a 4) « « S v hdQ m H H S « 2 3 "3 4^ 3 . o o e l| 8?1 ^ <35 t^ M I~ 1 IC ifS VJI VI* 1 ^ fe "^ ■*' fe OT w K IM * 05 CO © 50 r"^® A ? K ^ «) M , >* 10 . to ©■ ©■ © -* ja© S IK s © ^ •* li — 11^ lc/1 "^ 00 •* ] f, © I— I © n ce ^© 00 •a nj.S s £ ^3^ ^ H H U u a ^ a ® 2 S « — ■So u »> is ^ e H w to O 1-^ » c e5 * TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. IC7 CHAPTER XVI. C03IMENCE3IENT OF THE YEAR 1830— FIRST MEETING WITIl THE ESQUIMAUX ON THIS COAST— DESCRIPTION OF THEIR VILLAGE AND OF THEIR SOCIETY AND MANNERS— THEY ARE ENTERTAINED ON BOARD— COMMUNICATE S031E GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATIOIT, AND PROMISE MORE. {Jan. 1, 1830) The new year commenced with serene and beau- tiful weather, and it wasmild,though the thermometer was at minus 16", falling afterwards to 22». The meridian sky displayed the beautiful tints of a summer evening, but of a character different from anything occurring in more southern climates 5 the distant hills on the horizon being of a nearly scarlet hue, while a glowing purple sky above, gradually darkened into a shade deeper than an analogous twilight would produce iu England. This second holiday of the (Christmas season was celebrated by the same indulgences to the men; who contrived for themselves a concert of about the same quality as their ball ; each of them, however, being in very just and harmo- nious proportion to our apartments, our establishment, and our climate; and having therefore the merit of fitness at least. But what matters the mode, if people can make themselves innocently happy? At home, it is probable, half of them would have been in- toxicated ; that being the exclusive road to happiness in the estima- tion of our countrymen ; but I cannot help thinking, with Froissart, that although this is the usage of Britain, it is to enjoy ourselves •' bien tristement ; " while it were well if this was the worst result. {Ja7i. 2) Last night the thermometer underwent many changes within a few hours, without any apparent cause, and there was a remarkable halo round the moon. On cutting through the ice, it was found to be five feet four inches thick, giving an increase of nearly three feet during the last month, unless, as was possible, some loose pieces had been floated in beneath the field, by the tide, I 1(]8 SECOiND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY and there attached. The wind increased to day with gloomy wea- ther, and the cold was severely felt, though the temperature was not lower than 19". The next day {Jati. 5) it was milder, because calmer; the temperature being the same at first, though afterwards rising to 11". It was Sunday, and was spent as usual. (Ja?i. 4) There was some snow from the southward, with an overcast sky ; and the thermometer rose to minus 7". The rocks that had been laid bare were once more covered, so that all the landscape was one indiscriminate surface of white ; presenting, together with the solid and craggy sea, all equally whitened by the new snow, the dreariest prospect that it is possible to conceive, while unaccompanied by a single circumstance of the picturesque, or anything capable of exciting the smallest interest. Such it is indeed, almost every where, in this wretched country, and, above all, in winter. The voyager may be a painter, or he may be a poet ; but his talents at description will here be of no value to him ; unless he has the hardihood to invent what there is not to see. Whatever may be the interest attached to the illustrations adopted in this work, it is easy at least to perceive that they owe nothing to the actual landsoepe; to a nature void of every thing to which the face of a country owes its charms. {Jan. 15) We thought there was a visible increase of the meridian twilight yesterday; but this day was overcast and dark, though calm, and therefore mild ; the average temperature being minus 8", and the greatest heat minus 4". The thickness of the weather, in- creasing in the evening, turned out provoking ; but did not finally prevent us from getting an occultation of Aldebaran by the moon, together with one of Capella, and some others of importance. It happened that the hares appeared in numbers to-day, and one was shot : a circumstance worth noticing, because, in the former expe- ditions, they had never been found so late in the season as January. The fabrication of a snow staircase, with a wall, found useful em- ployment as well as amusement for the men, who had learned to pride themselves in the beauty and perfection of their icy architec- ture and masonry. {Jan. 6) The wind shifting to the northward, it became very cold; but the sky was brilliant with red and purple tints in great variety. A remeasurement of the thickness of the ice confirmed our former suspicions; it w^is found to be but four feet and a half thick; but I I* TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. tee even lliis is a greater thickness, by half a foot, than had been found at the same period of the year in former voyages, whik' the cause was, probably, the greater shallowness of the water. Another ol>scure aurora made its appearance in the zenith. On the following day (J«w. 7), a brilliant sky at ten in the morning presented an entirely new aspect; the space above the setting moon being of a rich golden colour, and that near the sun's place displaying a bright silvery tint ; both of them the reverse of what is the usual rule in other climates. {Jan. 8) The wind increased, with a snow drift; but a fine night allowed us to make many useful observations on transits and other matters. The sky presented the same colouring, and the thermo- meter was at minus 26°. Again, many of the rocks on the hills were cleared of their snow by the wind ; and the men were employed today as well as yesterday in bringing gravel to the ice, preparatory to the cutting of a canal which we intended for the exit of our ship when the time should arrive. {Jan. 9) Going on shore this morning, one of the seamen inform- ed me that strangers were seen from the observatory. I proceeded accordingly in the direclion pointed out, and soon saw four Esqui- maux near a small iceberg, not far from the land, and about a mile from the ship. They retreated behind it as soon as they perceived me; but as I approached, the whole party came suddenly out of their shelter, forming in a body of ten in front and three deep, with one man detached, on the land side, wiio was apparently sitting in a sledge. I therefore sent back my companion for Com- mander Ross to join me, together with some men, who were di- rected to keep at a distance behind him. Proceeding then alone, to within a hundred yards, I found that each was armed with a spear and a knife, but saw no bows and arrows. Knowing that the word of salutation between meeting tribes was Tima tima, 1 hailed them in their own language, and was answered by a general shout of the same kind; the detached man being then called in front of their line. The rest of my party now coming up, we advanced to within sixty yards, and then threw our guns away, with the cry of Aja, Tima; being the usual method, as we had learned it, of opening a friendly communication. On this, they threw their knives and spears into the air in every direction, returning the shout JJa, and extending their arms to show that they 10. 174» SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY >. t 'If m n^^ m w '^i!#! I' also were without weapons. But as they did not quit their places, we advanced, and embraced in succession all those in the front line, stroking down their dress also, and receiving from them in return this established ceremony of friendship. This seemed to produce great delight, expressed, on all hands, by laughing, and clamour, and strange gestures : while we immediately found ourselves esta- blished in their unhesitating confidence. Commander Ross's experience was here of great use; and, being informed that we were Europeans (Kablunae), they answered that they were men Innuit. Their numbers amounted to thirty- one; the eldest, called Illicta, being sixty-five years of age, six others between forty and fifty, and twenty of them between forty and twenty ; the number being made up by four boys. Two were lame, and, with the old man, were drawn by the others on sledges : one of them having lost a leg, from a bear as we understood, and the other having a broken or diseased thigh. They were all well dressed, in excellent deerskins chiefly; the upper garments double, and encircling the body, reaching, in front, from the chin to the middle of the thigh, and having a cape behind to draw over the head, while the skirt hung down to the calf of the leg, in a peak not unlike that of a soldier's coat of former days. The sleeves covered the fingers ; and, of the two skins which composed all this, the inner one had the hair next the body, and the outer one in the reverse direction. They had two pairs of boots on, with the hairy side of both turned inwards, and above them, trousers of deerskin, reachingvery low on the leg ; while some of them had shoes outside of their boots, and had sealskins instead of those of deer, in their trousers. With this immense superstructure of clothes, they seemed a much larger people than they really were. All of them bore spears, looking not much unlike a walking stick, with a ball of wood or ivory at one end, and a point of horn at the other. On examining the shafts, however, they were found to be formed of small pieces of wood , or of the bones of animals, joined together very neatly. The knives that we first saw , consisted of bone or reindeer's horn, without point or edge, forming a very inoffensive weapon; but we soon discovered that each of them had , hanging at his back, a much more efFeclive knife pointed with iron, and some also edged with that metal. One of them proved also to be formed of I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 171 (1, being red that thirty- age, six en forty wo were sledges : ood, and ! all well J double, in to the over the peak not s covered this, the le in the the hairy ieerskin, s outside in their cl a much spears, wood or amining ill pieces neatly. ■'s horn, but we back, a ime also rmed of f ; Ihe blade of an English claspknife, having the maker's mark on it, which had been so fixed as to be converted into a dagger. This was a proof of communication with the tribes that trade with Europeans , if Ihnt was not the case with themselves. Com- mander Ross did not indeed recognise among them any of his former acquaintances, while he was evidently unknown to them; but when he mentioned the names of places in fteptilse bay, they immediately understood him and pointed in that direction. lie could also make out that they had come from the southward, and had seen the ship the day before, that their huts were at some distance to the northward , and that they had left them only in the morning. Having no foresight of these visiters , we had of course no pre- sents at hand for tliem, and we therefore sent a man back to the ship for thirty-one pieces of iron hoop, that there might be a gift for each individual. But, in the mean time, they consented to accompany us on board , and we soon arrived at our snow wall. At this they expressed no surprise; it was, indeed, loo much like their own work to excite any ; nor did they show any of those marks of astonishment , at either the ship itself or the quantity of wood and iron before them, which we had found among the northern savages of Baffin's bay in 1818. It was evident that they were no strangers to even an abundance of these materials. The present of the iron excited universal delight. In return, they offered us their spears and knives, which, to their equal astonishment and satisfaction, we refused. We could now easily see that their appearance was very superior to our own ; being at least as well clothed , and far better fed ; with plump cheeks, of as rosy a colour as they could be under so dark a skin. Like the other tribes of Esquimaux, their goodnatured faces were of a regular oval, the eyes dark and approaching each other, the nose small , and the hair black : nor were their skins of so dark a copper lint as those which I had formerly seen in the north. They seemed a cleaner people too ; and, what I had not seen before, their hair was cut short, and arranged in no careless manner. Their dresses were made with peculiar neatness ; and some were ornamented with fringes made of sinews , or with strings of small bones. The skins of gluttons, ermines, and grey seals, hung at the breast, seemed also to be ornamental appurtenances. Their sledges were singularly rude; the sides consisting of pieces of bone % 'If 172 SECOl^D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY •)fw- lied round and enclosed by a skin, and the cross bars on the top bein{; made of the fore leps of a deer. One of them was but two feet lonp, and fourteen inches wide, the others were between three and four feet in Ien};lh. On the under part of the runner, there was a coaling of ice attached to the skin, rendering their motion very easy. Three of the men were, after this, introduced into the cabin, where , at length, they showed abundant signs of wonder. The engravings, representing their countrymen, selected from the several former voyages, gave them great delight, as they instantly recognised them to be portraits of their own race. The looking- glasses, as usual, were, however, the chief source of astonishment, as, especially, was a sight of themselves in our largest mirror. Scarcely less surprise was excited by the lamp and the candle- sticks ; but they never once showed a desire to possess themselves of anything; receiving, merely, what was offered, with signs of thankfulness that could not be mistaken. They did not relish our preserved meat; but one who ate a morsel seemed to do it as a matter of obedience, saying it was very good, but admitting, on being cross questioned by Commander Ross, that he had said what was not true; on which, all the rest, on receiving permission, threw away what they had taken. But the same man, on being offered some oil, drank it with much satisfaction , admitting that it was really good. Thus admirably are the tastes of all these tribes adapted to their compulsory food, and their views of happiness to the means of it which have been provided; nor, assuredly, had these men, amidst their blubber and their oil, their dirty diet and villainous smells, any reason to envy the refined tables of the south; as, among those, they would not only have experienced disgust, but felt pity for our barbarism and ignorance; while if they had been induced to partake, it could have been only under the impulse of starvation. In succession, three more were treated in the same manner, while the first set proceeded to amuse the rest with what they had seen. A short race was also run between one of them and an officer of our party ; but with so much and such equal politeness on both sides, that there was no victor to be declared. The violin being afterwards produced, they joined our men in dancing ; and thus seemed, whether it was the fact or not, to have a much greater m 'k TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 173 1 the top hut two een three ler, there r motion le cabin, ler. The Prom the instantly I looking- nishment, it mirror, e candle- hemselves 1 signs of relish our do it as a litting, on said what jrmission, on being ing that it ese tribes piness to dly, had diet and he south ; disgust, they had impulse ler, while ad seen. (officer of on both llin being land thus greater » I relish for music than had generally been f(»und among the other tribes by our predecessors. It being now necessary to separate, we proposed to accompany them part of the way to their huts, the (lirectiou of which llu-y pointed out ; making us understand that their wives. chiUben, dogs, and sledges, were all at home, and that they had abundance of provisions. During our walk we met a seal hole on the ice, and they showed us the use of the spear in enlarging il for the recep- tion of a twig of ash or birch, together with their method of throw- ing that weapon. But we could not make out by such incpiiries, what was of chief importance to us, namely, the direction of any open sea. They, indeed, pointed to the north as being the place in (piestion ; but not being able to understand from them what lay to the southward and westward, we were obliged to defer farther questions to another day. Having proceeded about two miles, we now made a mark on the ice as the place of rendezvous on the following day, when they were made to understand that we should visit their huts ; a proposal which was received with the highest satisfaction. We parted under the same ceremonies which had attended our meeting. This was a most satisfactory day ; for we had given up all expec- tations of meeting inhabitants in this place ; while we knew that it was to the natives that we must look for such geographical infor- mation as would assist us in extricating ourselves from our dif- ficulties and in pursuing our course. It was for philosophers to interest themselves in speculating on a horde so small, and so se- cluded, occupying so apparently hopeless a country, so barren, so wild, and so repulsive ; and yet enjoying the most perfect vigour, the most well-fed health, and all else that here constitutes, not merely wealth, but the opulence of luxury; since they were as am- ply furnished with provisions, as with every other thing that could be necessary to their wants. And if the moralist is inclined to spe- culate on the nature and distribution of happiness in this world, on the admirable adaptation found, here as elsewhere, between the desires and the means of gratification, the pious one will not forget the Hand, which, under the most apparently hopeless circumstan- ces, thus spreads for His creatures, a table in the wilderness. { Jan. 10. ) After divine service, which, for that purpose, we held unusually early, we proceeded to perform our promise, though m It 1'"*"! , ■ i m -(■ 174 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY h the lliormometrr ha«! fnllon to minus 37". We found the natlvpn nl llie n|)|i()iiil('(l pl.ire, uiul, on .ippro.ichinf];, one, who appeared to he a lea(h.'r or chief, came a hundred yards in advance, hohlini; up his arms lo show Ihal he had no weapons. We therefore threw away our {^uns ; on which all the rest, in the rear, threw their warlike insli.unenls into the air, as they had done before, and, with llie usual exclamations, waited our approach. The number was now increased by about twenty children, and we went through the usual forms of salutation. The village soon appeared, consisting of twelve snow huts, erect- ed at the bottom of a little bight on the shore, about two miles and a half from the ship. They had the appearance of inverted basins, and were placed without any order ; each of them having a long crooked appendage, in which was the passage, at the entrance of which were the women, with the female children and infants. We were soon invited to visit these, for whom we had prej>ared presents of glass beads and needles ; a distribution of which soon drove away the timidity which they had displayed at our first ap- pearance. The passage, always long, and generally crooked, led to the prin- cipal apartment, which was a circular dome, being ten feet in dia- meter when intended for one family, and an oval of fifteen by ten where it lodged two. Opposite the doorway there was a bank of snow, occupying nearly a third of the breadth of the area, about two feet and a half high, level at the top, and covered by various skins ; forming the general bed or sleeping place for the whole. At the end of this sat the mistress of the house, opposite to the lamp, which, being of moss and oil, as is the universal custom in these regions, gave a sufficient flame to supply both light and heat; so that the apartment was perfectly comfortable. Over the lamp was the cooking dish of stone, containing the flesh of deer and of seals, with oil ; and of such provision there seemed no want. Every thing else, dresses, implements, as well as provisions, lay about in unspeakable confusion, showing that order, at least, was not in the class of their virtues. It was much more interesting to us to find, that among this dis- order there were some fresh salmon ; since, when they could find this fish, we were sure that it would also furnish us with supplies which we could not too much multiply. On inquiry, we were '■fS TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 175 Iff natives appciircd \ holdini; uro threw rcw their niid, Willi inhcr was •ouRh the its, erect- wo miles ' inverted having; a entrance 1 infants. pre[)ared lich soon ' first ap- the prin- et in dia- !n by ten bank of a, about ^ various ; whole. e to the istom in nd heat; le lamp and of Every bout in s not in this dis- ild find upplies were i % I informed that they were nbnndaiit ; and we had, therefore, the prospect of a new aimisrnient, as well as of a valuable market at the mere price of our labour. Tlicy now offered us, in return for our presents, anylhini; w liich we mii^hl clioose ; and we accord- ini;ly selected some spears, and some bows with thrir arrows ; tofjelher with an ear ornament of iron ore, beinR a ball attached to a 811 in^. and some specimens for our collection of natural his- tory ; the form'^r object beiufj rendered nmre ornamental by some foxes' lr( (h that were altached to it, with a frinf^c of sinews in addjfion. Soiiie more needles, which we now added to our former gifts, served to fjain tlu ir unreserved confidence and friendship. Of these lulls, Iniilt entirely el' snow. I must atld, that they were all li(;hle-';i W: TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. t79 )ned and tieir own V the line counting es on the we could id inclu- vn several h demon- )ther fish northerly not less to two days ; sea. ^eral large d ; farther tig a route line days. uch better d see him. Formed us )ut that it amused voyages. at least, en them; tless have ever may in an En- be very IS as pos- re, I had it would traction ; , through ace mag- novelty. I and thus does the curiosity of pure ignorance ever find new gratifi- cations. iJut we who, hero, know every thing, knowing even what we have not seen or learned, have contrived to get rid of these pleasures; it is even to be feared that the " schoolmaster abroad " will shortly find his place a mere sinecure; so universally does knowledge seize, even on those who do not take the trouble to pursue it. It is almost a pioverb, that there is no royal road to science; but a road as brief as royalty could have desired, without being able to command it, has been found by those to whom the privileges of knowledge cease to be odious whenever they can them- selves exert those. Fortunately, thus far, for our new guests, there was no penny science, in this land of little light, to interfere with their admi- ration; it was absolute, as that of their countrymen had been the day before : though one bad effect at least of their ignorance was displayed in their abhorrence of plum pudding, with which we had vainly hoped to regale stomachs accustomed to find blubber a sweetmeat, and train oil preferable to maraschino. This, indeed, we had not to give them ; but our brandy was as odious as our pudding; and they have yet, therefore, to acquire the taste which has, in ruining the morals, hastened the extermination of their American neighbours to the southward. If, however, these tribes must finally disappear, as seems their fate, it is at least better that they should die gradually by the force of rum, than that they should be exterminated in masses by the fire and the sword of Spanish conquest; since there is at least some pleasure, such as it is, in the mean time, while there is also a voluntary, if slow suicide, in exchange for murder and misery. Is it not the fate of the savage and the uncivilized on this earth to give way to the more cunning and the better informed, to knowledge and civilization? It is the order of the world, and the right one : nor will all the lamentations of a mawkish philanthropy, with its more absurd or censurable efforts, avail one jot against an order of things as wise as it is, assuredly, established. All which it is our duty to provide for, is, that this event be not hastened by oppression and wrong, that it may not be attended by the suffering of individuals. But amid these depressive reflections, the time came to end our entertainment and send our company home ; the carriage, such as it was, being in waiting. We explained that the new leg would i^ f.m it 180 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY be ready in three days, when we hoped for the pleasure of trying it on; and then, presenting them each with one of the empty meat canisters, they took their departure in high glee. It is delightful to be able to overwhelm the needy with gold ; not less so. I imagine, when it is done at no cost ; and here we had made these poor men as rich and as happy, with what was little better than an old sauce- pan, as if our canisters had been made of silver, and vvvjre to be purchased with gold. Let no man imagine that he knows what a present is worth, till he has found what happiness can be pro- duced by a blue bead, a yellow button, a needle, or a piece of an old iron hoop. A very cold breeze prevented us from escorting them on their journey, as we had intended. We did nothing else on this day, but remove some small stores out of the way, lest they should tempt these hitherto honest people, and thus make us guilty of teaching them a vice to which they appeared strangers : a vice com- mon among all savages, and too much so, even in some of this race, as we are assured by the experience of many navigators. i CHAPTER XVII. »! t**-'; 1 \ \\ ii 1 1 ^ »'■ 1 "'! r i , ,1 (I RECEIVE MORE GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION FR03I ONE OF THE NATIVES CALLED IKMALLIK — CONTINUE OUR COMMUNICATIONS WITH THEM — PURE MERCURY FREEZES AT LENGTH, AT MINUS 39"— THE FIRST SUNRISE OF THE YEAR— DEATH OF THE ARMOURER —END OF THE MONTH, AND SUJIMARY. {Jan. 12) The promised hydrographer, Ikmallik, came to us this morning, accompanied by Tiagashu, and they were taken into the cabin ; six others who attended them being turned over to the care of the men. The ti.rst information which we received was, that they had killed several seals on the day before, at the seal holes : the method being, as many readers perhaps already know, to transfix them by the spear, when the agitation of the signal twig TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 181 i \'i |w, to ll twig that is placed in the hole of the ice, shows that they have come up to breathe. Thus is the cunning of even the lowest of mankind an overmatch for the wisdom of the wisest animal : though neither our friends of this country, nor the animal which they outwit, are to be ranked in the extremes of these classes. Some paper containing a sketch of the land already known between Repulse bay and Prince Regent's inlet, was now laid before them, with the names of the different places marked. These were at once recognised : and Ikmallik then taking the pencil, proceeded to prolong the sketch from AkuUee, following very nearly, for a very considerable space, the line already traced by Tulluahiu. After this, he prolonged it still farther westward, instead of turning to the north, as the latter had done; then continuing it to the north-wesl, in a direction more favourable to our views. He did not, however, insert the islands ; nor could we discover how many days it was estimated from the end of his chart to AkuUce near Repulse bay; but he drew Wager bay and its river very correctly, marking also several other rivers. He farther gave us to understand that our ship could sail that way till the autumn ; and with this in- formation we were obliged, for the present, to be content. We showed our new friends the engravings of the natives who had been known and drawn in the preceding voyages, being those which had been displayed to our first visiters; repealing their names at the same time. The names were recognised as before ; but both of them expressed surprise at the difference of aspect and style between those persons and themselves; while, but for the beards, they were inclined to believe them portraits of women. This leader, Ikmallik, was a strong, active man, about five feel ten inches high; being the paragon of the party, and indeed, among these tribes, a man of unusual power and stature. The same presents sent them all home, happy and thankful. {Jan. 13) A thermometer at minus 35" made this a really cold day ; but the wind was not such as to prevent us from performing the promise we had made, to accompany the natives on a seal- hunting expedition. We met them accordingly, about halfway from their village, unarmed; and they turned back quite delighted when told that we meant to proceed to their huts. A sharp breeze then springing up against us, the danger of being frost-bitten be- came considerable ; on which they all undertook to watch us, giving i'i! «? m 182 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■rn^l] notice whenever it was necessary to apply our hands to any part of our faces that were in danger of suffering, that we might rub them for restoring the circulation. The women had lost much of their timidity, on this our second visit: and finding that the seal-hunting party was absent, we entered TuUuahiu's hut, where we met a kind reception from his mother, wife, daughter, and two young children, forming his appa- rent family. A complete female dress had been made ready as a present for me ; being of the materials and construction already described, with an appearance of unusual care in adjusting the symmetry of the skins, so that the colours should correspond on each side; while there was a fringe below, and a border of white round the hood and the openings for the arms. I had no doubt that it was a first-rate specimen of manlua-making; and it was my business to estimate it as a London lady would have done the loftiest production of the highest dress-maker in the calender of fashion. In return, I presented this generous lady with a silk handkerchief; being the article, of all that I had show n her, which attracted her chief admiration. I soon found too, that this personage, woman though she was, did not want a knowledge of geography, and that also, of a different nature from what she might have acquired in an English boarding-school, through the question book and '' the use of the globes." Tiriksiu, for that was her name, perfectly com- prehended the chart ; and being furnished with the means, drew one of her own, very much resembfing it, but with many more islands : adding also the places where we must sleep in our future progress, and those where food was to be obtained. On these points, at least, it was an emendation of the knowledge we had attained before. The hunting party now returned, with a large white seal : while the rest of our crew also joined us, having experienced the same kind treatment wherever they had been, and having seen, among the people, large quantities of venison and fish which had evidently been buried in the snow. The politeness of the natives, as it must be esteemed, caused a party to accompany our men on their way, in apparent return for the same civility before shown by us; but, after a time, they asked leave to depart, and we separated with the usual noisy forms. It was settled at the same time, that Tulluahiu should come for his wooden leg the nextdiiy, whi'** the rest were to resume 1 TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 183 Iheir seal hunting. It was exceedingly cold on our way back to the ship, and I did not escape without losing some skin from one cheek. We had seen three ptarmigans in the morning, but it was in vain that we tried to start them again on our return. {Jan. 14) The thermometer fell from its station of minus 33° last evening, to 38" ; and as the breeze made it very cold, I doubted if our patient would keep his appointment. He came, however, by noon, accompanied by his friend Otookiu, whose wife Kuanga, together with an elderly woman, four men, and two boys, com- pleted the party. The three principals were taken into the cabin, as we could there accommodate no more, and the rest were left in charge of the mate. The wooden leg was then fitted, to ascertain whether the length was correct; and as it had, after this, to be finished, the man for whom it had been made was desired to return on the following day. A re-examination of the chart added little to our previous information; but what we could conclude was, that there was a great bay between Akullee and this place, and that if there was any opening to the westward, it must be a very nar- row one. That they knew what it was to delineate land, was evident, because they drew the lakes near Repulse bay very accurately, together with the places of several inlets and rivers on the coast, both to the southward and westward. They had heard of the sea houses of the other Esquimaux, but had not seen them; and thence, while we concluded that they had never been on the east coast, so we inferred that this tribe does not travel out of the limits of this bay, though we could not yet be sure of the nature of their mode of life and migrations. Desiring to go at one o'clock, the rest of the party were called from below : and we were entertained to find that the male had prevailed on the elderly dame to have her hair cut, and combed, and arranged ; the result making such an advantageous change in her appearance, that all of them desired to undergo the same opera- lions. This was an unusual display of ambition and taste among these tribes ; making me regret that I had not provided myself with a stock of combs, as presents ; but the string of beads which 1 gave to each of the women was probably of more value in their eyes, if of far less use. {Jan. 115) We tried some mercury, known to be pure, and it k 184 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY '■; »lj f i ''> froze. This was Ihe lest of a temperature of 39" minus ; and as the thermometer I)y which we were now observing stood at the same mark, we were satisfied with its accuracy, as far as this point at least. It fell afterwards to 40", being, hitherto, our lowest degree. The meridional horizon was less clear than usual, so that we derived much less advantage from the sun's noonday twilight. The two men of yesterday came alone ; it was understood that the rest had gone to hunt for seals. The promised leg, being now complete, was filled on; and there was little time lost in finding ils use and value; as the disabled person soon began to strut about the cabin, in appa- rent ecstasy ; with more reason certainly to be delighted with his present, than all the others united, with what they had received. All the surgery of this case lay indeed with the carpenter; not the worst operator, I believe, in this compound profession ; but 1 doubt if any effort of surgery ever gave more satisfaction than we had thus conferred, in reproducing a man fully serviceable once more to himself and his community. The gratitude, however, in this case, took a very amusing course; yet, though somewhat ludicrous to us, it was natural in them, who had no reasons to doubt their own medicinal knowledge; while the only medical superiority that we had yet displayed, con- sisting in a greater command of timber and tools chiefly, was not such as to render them suspicious of their own powers. But what- ever the vanity might be, the good will was unquestionable. The poor armourer, they saw, was worn to a skeleton ; and as Otookiu was an Angekok, or conjurer, and physician in one, they proposed to apply their charms towards the cure of our fast-wasting patient. It is true enough, that diseases can be conjured out of a man's body, or mind, as is more likely ; and that were it not for the power of conjuration, physic would want its right hand, even in London, abounding in other successful Angekoks than the several bold quacks, who, each in his own department, heals all the diseases of his own peculiar set of gulls. But our poor man's case was too serious to permit our countenancing such trifling as this; and the proposition was therefore passed by, till it was forgotten amid the other objects of attraction by which the attention of our new friends was so fully occupied. The leg was inscribed with the name of the ship, and packed up in the sledge, as it was not yet sufficiently familiar for a journey V'^m: '^Si.: TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 18S of two milps through ice and snow. That wc parted better friends than ever, cannot he doubted. We learned today that Tuliuahiu had a brother who was engaged with a party farther north, whom he intended shortly to join for tlie purpose of hunting the musk ox; that there was excellent salmon fishing in spring and summer, and that there were also large fish in the lakes; while he farther informed us, that they were to continue for the present in this place, as they had taken many seals the day before. \ regretted to have ascer- tained, that under the same language, their dialect differed much from the vocabularies in the books, and also from the Danish dic- tionary of the Esquimaux tongue which we possessed. We had therefore an interest in studying it seriously, since it was likely to be our chief future source of information : and, in this pursuit, Commander Ross, very naturally, proved the most apt scholar. {Jan. IC) Three natives came on board today, reporting that they had killed six seals the day before. Tiagashu, the son of the old man of the tribe, was amongst the most intelligent that we had con- versed with ; but neither of them, after inspecting the chart, added anything new to our previous information. They were amused, as these people had always been, with the sketches which we made of them, and laughed heartily at the portraits of the wooden-legged man and his companion. Those who had not received tin canisters before, as presents, were now treated with one each ; and on parting, if we understood them rightly, they informed us that they had lately seen some of the people from Igloolik. The thermo- meter fell to 42*> minus, in the evening, and there was an incon- spicuous aurora. {Jan. 17) After having been at 43° minus in the morning, the temperature rose a few degrees in the course of the day. During divine service, five of the Esquimaux came to the ship; and after that was over, they were admitted. That Sunday is unknown to them, I need not say. The features of an elderly man, Ilolishaktoo, which were preserved by a portrait, differed considerably from the gene- ral character, as if he had belonged to a different tribe. They in- formed us of the capture of five more seals; making up the whole week's hunt to eighteen, which they considered a successful one, though they should even take no more at this time. The presents were repeated, as before, to those who had not received any; and two of the number were pleased to get rid of their beards under the '■li (I I i.i 3M ii a V m 186 SECOWO VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY hands of the mate. The rising of a smart wind under this tempe- rature, made us invite them to remain for the nij^ht ; but thoujjh two were willing to slay, the rest had appointed a seal hunt, and they all departed. {Jan. 18) There was today a violent storm of drift snow, since the wind of the morniuf; soon rose to a gale ; and it was conse- quently so thick at noon, that we could not see the sun, on which we had calculated. The thermometer, however, rose to 32" in the course of the day, and, at nine at night, was but minus 9". It was a day of absolute imprisonment, of course. The wind was much less severe on the following day (Jan. 19), having been from the north-westward, with the barometer at 28 1/2" or thereabouts. It did not, therefore, prevent the visit of our friends, as the pre- ceding one had unquestionably done; three men and two boys arriving early in the forenoon, and remaining with us a few hours; after which they departed, with the usual gratilicalions. The first fraud attempted on us occurred today, but it was a sufficiently pardonable one. A boy begged a canisJer for his mother, whose husband, as we found, had already recei.'d one ; but the detection of this scheme only occasioned merrimeut among them : a result which we experienced on many occasions afterwards. One of the men was distinguished by a row of foxes' teeth in his hair, and seemed especially intelligent. It occurred to me to-day, that we might, by taking a couple of boys into the ship, contrive to teach them English, and also, by aid of the books furnished by the mi- nister at Holsteinborg, enabk ihem to learn the art of reading and writing their own language. Thus, should we succeed, they might be rendered of essential use hereafter ; and 1 therefore concluded on making the proposal at the first opportunity. {Jan. 20) The gale abated today, and the weather became settled and clear. Commander Ross and the surgeon paid a visit to the native village, and were amused by an exhibition of singing and dancing. The sun appeared for the first time, after an absence of fifty days, being about half its diameter above the visible horizon ; so that we might have seen the upper limb before, as we had calculated, had the sky been sufficiently clear. That, however, which gave us pleasure, had no such eff^ect on the Esquimaux, to whom the night of this region is their day; or to which it is, at least, far preferable, since it is of far more value fo them in hunting the cunning and TO THE K\ REGIONS. 187 cautious seals. For this reason th( alw.* « •» rotnrned liome wh^n the day broke; complaiiiinfj of the ligl js i heir iiuy an'. indii \ to proceed on the pursuit of this game, and at lenf|i i uutriv* to shoot one. It proved, however, to he a willow pai h je; sjiov^ing^ that this bird exists in these regions during all seasons ff the year, The unfortunate armourer, James Maslin, died this evening. It had been long ascertained that he was suffering under tubercular consumption, and could not survive; so that our regrets were ne- cessarily limited. That he had been in hospitals in England for the same complaint, had been known to us from a very early period of our voyage, but not under such circumstances as to enable us to send him back. His age was forty-Hve ; and he did not quit this life without having been long prepared for the event. The twenty-first was calm and clear. A boy and a girl from the Esquimaux, in company with some men, paid us a visit. The latter was so wrapped up in furs that she had the figure of a globe standing on two pins ; but black piercing eyes, added to ruddy cheeks and youth, produced a pretty face, where our standard of beauty had ceased to be fixed at a very high degree. I imagine that this is a much more tractable standard than is commonly supposed ; and that habit effects, in a far shorter time than has been thought, that change in the feelings on this subject which we vainly suppose can never occur. Such at least has been the experience of all travellers; and the arrangement is unquestionably a wise one, since that which is the only accessible ought also to be the most acceptable. This youngpersonwas already betrothed, as is the custom of this country; the affiance being even settled, in many cases, during extreme in- fancy, or almost from the birth of the female child. We have all read romances in which these early contracts had proved unsuc- cessful : perhaps they succeed better here, because there is so little variety to distract attention, that one wife is equivalent to any other that might be chosen; but if the system is not practically very differ- ent from that of the Turks and Chinese, (presuming the contract to be irrevocable, which we do not know), the husband at least sees his future bride, can watch her progress upwards, and does not, to use a very vulgar phrase, "buy a pig in a sack," like the man of China, or him of the race of Othman. ii '^. 188 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY My rrndrrs nrc probaMy lire*! of the nnmr» of mm who onn have nopcniljiir iiilcreHl lor Ihnii, •itul whom, Mke the writers of Iiidiari history, (if these persons woiihl hut recoMeet it, which, iinfortii- iiately, they have never yet done,) we can (hsiinmiish hy nothing to make one hard word remendjered in preferenee to another. Nor can it much interest any one, who was the wife, son, nephew, jjrand- daufihter, or l»etrothed, of whom, when thewechhni? (h»y wasHxed, or what were the politics, gossipings, scpiabhies, friendships, or parties, in this septentrional city. Much, therefore, whieli we learned, I may dechne to record : 1 much douht if it conhl entertain even the femah: ancients of an Mnghsh village: as universal know- ledge "progresses, " a new interest will attach to a region so rohbcd of its "' natural rights" by nature herself, and a newspaper will, of course, approximate this frozen and furred peoj)Ie to the great fra- ternity of mankind. It was much more important than all that I might have here told of the yet dormant Morning Post of this ill-used country, to find that the wooden leg had enabled our friend to attend the seal hunt: but as the philosophy of our worthy carpenter, Chimham Thomas, had contrived a more fitting foot to it, for walk- ing on snow, and that the said foot was in progress to completion, he was appointed to come for it on the following day. They departed not long after noon ; and the remainder of the people's lime was employed in digging the armourer's grave. To the professional in this task, there is, in this, nothing : to us, a small circle, mutually dependent, and separated from all the world, it would have been a painful office, since it was almost that of the parent or brother who digs the grave of his dearest relation, on a desert island, not knowing when his own turn may come to claim the same service from those who remain ; butonr long conviction of the inevitable event had blunted those feelings and wearied those reflections. The task, however, was executed in silence, at least; and it was not for any of us to inquire of the feelings of those who were employed in this painfid office. The sun was really brilliant at noon, and considerably elevated : it was a regaling sight ; while it also gave a promise that could not be broken , the promise of increasing in brightness and duration every day. This is indeed a sunrise, though more in promise than performance, to which all the splendour of morning suns in a southern climate is as nothing. It is an ever welcome luminary, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 180 iini1oiibtequimaux. jght in by should go the effect them very he nature esent, we mparative )ng them, B was one lem were ice more, p.'ojects. )ne of the squimaux I at nine dred and y shown roducod arded us ow also for them rose to 20°. We had settled that the armourer's funeral should take place before the church service ; and it was accordinj^ly performed with the usual forms and solemnity ; an appropriate sermon being af- terwards selected for that of the day. Fortunately, the natives offered us no interruption by their visit; but, after noon, they ar- rived, to the amount of fourteen, including five children. The man with the wooden leg had walked the whole distance, being two miles and a half, and was therefore quite master of his implement. Among them was a stranger from another tribe, with his hair in a different fashion ; but we could not make out the place of his resi- dence. The tame fox unfortunately died, from having got access to a specimen of the willow partridge, in the preparation of which arsenic had been used ; thus causing us a double loss. ( Ja?i. 25 ) Another party came on board, and among them, a woman with an infant at her back. She was hideous'y tattooed all over the face ; and her portrait, like that of many others, was drawn. Her husband was a stranger, belonging to some southern tribe, and knew the names for copper and brass ; whereas, with the present people, the name for iron applied to all. The presents which we made to these also, did not prevent the disappearance of a pair of snuffers ; though we could not ascertain who the culprit was. ( Jan. 26) Fifteen of the Esquimaux arrived today with some clothing to sell ; and they thought themselves amply rewarded in receiving a knife for each. To put a check on their troublesome famiharity, I admitted only four into the ship ; two of our former friends, with their wives. To prevent temptation also, all the por- table articles which were outside of the ship, having been placed on the ice for convenience^ were brought on board ; while some men were appointed to watch, in case of any attempts at pilfering. Even without the case of the snuffers, we had no right to expect absolute honesty among this tribe above all others; and, at any rate, were bound to expose them to no temptations. After their departure we took our walk, and found a raven feeding on a hare which we had probably wounded to death in some of our excur- sions. The temperature was at 34" minus. (Jan. 27) Another set of visiters brought two more dresses, which we purchased at the same price, together with a seal-skin, valued at a piece of an iron hoop. We had, of course, the trouble of the usual 4; h : 192 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY office of showmen : bill to our farther inquiries about Neitchillee, the only answer we could get was, that there was a large river, with plenty offish. They had taken more seals during some days past, and were to proceed with this hunting. {Jafi, 28) The temperature rose, and the sun was felt to have some power this day. Fourteen Esquimaux came alongside, including five women who had not seen the ship before : and we had again, of course, to go through all the ceremonial of showing wonders and making presents : thus, however, increasing our collection of por- traits. A female fox was taken in a trap, in a state of extreme starvation : displaying corresponding voracity when meat was pro- duced. It served to replace the former. Another, in the same condition, was caught on the following day {Jan, 29) : and the unfortunate solitary raven, approaching the ship, was shot. It had been a companion of our stay all the winter, and deserved to have been spared. In other days, or in minds more deeply tinctured with poetry or superstition, I know not what mental misery might not have followed an act so sacrilegious. {Ja7i. 50) Proceeding to the Esquimaux village, we met the wooden-legged man coming alone towards the ship, with a present of an arrow, and with the intention of informing us that Otookiu was sick. AVe found him with a swelled face; and it was settled that he should come to the ship, on the next day, for remedies. We were kindly received by the women, and purchased some small articles. The thermometer this day was at minus 30°, and some transits were obtained. {Jan. 31) This month ended with a very fine day. Half the village arrived while we were engaged in our church service; Otookiu, with the swelled face, being among them. He received his mediciness, and then was sent on shore to remain with the rest till we should have concluded. On coming out, we found that most of them had gone away ; and we then dismissed some others, from whom we purchased the deer-skins which they had brought. We found, from the three men admitted, that the women had de- parted, under the supposition that they should be refused entrance into the ship : and as these perpetual crowds were really incon- venient, we took this opportunity of settling that only five or six at one time were to come in future. We learned that they had found a bear, torpid in its den, and ^"i TO TUE ARCTIC REGIOi>S. 193 itchilleo, ver, with ays past, ave some nchidinjj k1 again, iders and I of por- extreme was pro- the same : and the :. It had d to have tinctnred ery might e met the a present it Otookiu as settled dies. We me small and some Half the service ; received "li the rest Hind that le others, [brought. had de- I entrance incon- I or six at len, and had killed it with their knives. We olfercd to buy il of llieni. and they promised to bring it on llie following day. We had a specimen of their cunning, in one who, having a sore on liis , I leg, beggc» to have a wooden leg made ; expecting thus to gain a piece of limber. It was easily explained, lliat the first conchlion was. to cut off the sore leg ; which of course put an end to this ap- plication. We had now terminated the first month in a new year, and il iiad passed away like a dream; our occupations and amuscmenls had heen greater than usual, and our visiters prevented time from drag- ging on in a tiresome uniformity. The mean temperature of the month had been minus 25" ; corresponding, as those of Ihe fornn r luonlhs did, with the means of the other voyages, in Ihe manner I formerly stated these. This too is considered the coldest month in llie year, taken as a whole, in these climates; though colder single (lays often occur in February and March. It had been the most slormy month, however, for some time ; and the barometer was once as low as 28 inches. The health and appearance of the crew was rather improved than Ihe reverse ; and the armourer's originally lost case could not be reckoned among the casualties arising from the climate. If he niiijht have lived longer by remaining in England, the fault \\as his own ; since he had already sailed in these seas, and knew well what he was hazarding, while keeping a secret which we could not discover lill it was too late. He deserved praise indeed for his spirit; Ihough, for many reasons, we could have wished he had act- ed otheiwise. If our meeting with the Esquimaux had been, in many ways, interesting as well as amusing to us, so was it an acquaintance which could be rendered serviceable. They had already furnished us with some dresses, much more useful to the men than those which we had brought from England, and we had reason to expect more. It was probable also that they might supply us with fresh meat; thus enabling us to economize our own stores. I The information which they had given us was of even higher \ z importance : while we now also hoped, that by means of their dogs and sledges, we should be able to examine a great deal of the coast, so as to decide on our future motions by sea, long before we should be released. II. i ) 9%'" ■'1 •' w ^ H'^i 9.- i M 194 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY In our interior establishment, every thin^j had proceeded with perfect order and comfort, the school promislnjj, ere long, to pro- duce some able navigators. The observations by the transit instru- ment had been numerous and successful. The preparations for cutting a canal in the ice had been continued as occasion offered. m CHAPTER XVIII. PILFERING ON THE PART OF THE NATIVES— THE FIRST FALL OF SNOW OF THIS YEAR— NATIVE DANCE— SUM3IARY OF THE MONTH OF FEBRUARY. .f. ,??:5 -!!' |i, ?. I (Feb.!) There was another arrival of Esquimaux, on the first day of this new month, with wives and children; and we bought from them three skin dresses ; but the bear continued to be pro- mised. The man with the swelled face was belter, and brought a bow that he had proposed to give us. One of the women had an ornament on her head, consisting of the head of an owl, with some ermine skins. The temperature was minus 20", and the day so cloudy that none of the expected occultations in Taurus could be observed, nor any of the moon-culminating stars. {Feb. 2) It did not become clear till the moon had passed Taurus and there was nothing more to be observed ; a mortification suffi- ciently common with astronomers. The Esquimaux brought some more skins, which we bought; but not the bear : we had reason to suspect that this promise was not about to be kept. But we had now something more to discuss with them : and the event Avas to show that they were not those examples of absolute honesty, which we had at first supposed, if much less inclined to stealing than most savages have proved. And whatever excuses navigators have made for these races, from the strength of the temptation when iron has been the subject of theft, they do not, I fear, apply here, where the objects stolen could be of no use, if indeed I except the snuffers; though, in fact, even these, iron as they might be, were not likely 1 I TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 105 to be of much service. thou[;h the hammer mijjht be apphed to some purposes. A large reading-lens had disappeared for some days; and I had reason, on consideration, to suspect the conjurer Otookiu; the candle having gone out, for some time, in the cabin, after I had been exhibiting its effects to him. This was confirmed afterwards, by his unwillingness to admit me into his house at my last visit to the village. I therefore told him that the swelled face had been produced by the magical glass, and that it must be returned. His confession immediately followed, together with a promise to bring it back on the following day: without which, I assured him that his other cheek would swell in the same manner. It was brought back accordingly, together with a hammer which had disappeared; while the snuffers were admitted to be in the possession of one of the women, together with a glass out of my spectacles, which one of the children had found, on its having dropped out. The terror of the conjurer was indeed so great, that he brought back a hook and a harpoon head which I had given him in exchange for a bow ; on which, to preserve this probably useful impression of terror, I agreed to a re-exchange. {Feb. 5) On the preceding day we observed a transit of the moon, and had many observations of stars on this one ; the weather being unusually clear. The thermometer was first as low as 38" minus, and it afterwards fell to 40. The Esquimaux brought nothing but a part of the bear's skin ; but we purchased a reindeer skin from them. The spectacle glass was returned, and the bearer rewarded with a tin canister, as this had not been a true theft. The snuffers also were produced; and it was then explained, that if anything should hereafter be lost, none of the natives would be suffered to come on board any more. Nor would we admit any of them at this time, that we might give a tangible proof of our resolution, and of our firmness in adhering to it. {Feb. 4) The temperature sank to minus 42°, but the day was clear and calm, so that the cold was not severe on shore. Some natives came, and sold us some dresses, together with the ornament made of teeth. Eight seals had been taken by them in the last two days. They brought a small part of the bear, saying that they could get no more. A few returned on the following day {Feb. 5), and, among the rest, a woman with a nursling, whom she took out of hi ' A If ' 1 I *^\ 1^ ^ 15' ^1 ( i'\ ■ i 1 r 1 I ' I H 1 |i m il ^ m 1 ■\ li ,lli:^ ''• ii: t' i' • it^ h- ^. 106 SECOiVD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY hpr bafj, and exposed naked lo the air, at the breast, with the ther- mometer at minus 40". {Fob. 6) It rose to 32« to-day, the weather continuing calm and fine. The whole thirly-one Esquimaux came; and as two had not yet seen Ihe ship, they were admitted. The conjurer was In great distress, because he had taken no seals ; attributing his ill luck to the magical glass. 1 promised that the enchantment should cease in two days; and they agreed to bring us a seal on the following day, if they succeeded in taking one. On culling through the ice. which we had begun to do the day before, it was found to be six feet thick ; being an increase of twenty inches within Ihe last month, and giving a greater Inickness, by a foot and a half, than at Ihe cor- responding season at Port Bowen in 18215. ib'ch.l) The cold increased on this Sunday, falling, in the af- ternoon, to minus 43". Of fifteen Esquimaux that came alongside, some were admitted after church, and sold us some excellent skins. On the following day {Feb. 8), they brought us three more, and in- formed us that their dogs had killed a bear on the ice, which would be at their houses on the next day. We proposed to purchase it. together with a seal. The wind changed very often in the course of this day, and the thermometer rose to minus 30". (Feb. 9) It fell again to 42", and this weather was very cold to the feelings. Nevertheless we proceeded to the village, in company with our principal friends who had come for us ; meeting with the usual kind reception: but as neither bear nor seal had yet arrived, our labour was thus far lost. In returning against the wind, the cold was very severe ; yet we visited the cairn which had been erected for one extremity of a trigonometrical base, where also we had made experiments on the velocity of sound at these low temperatures, which I shall have occasion to note hereafter. In the evening, the thermometer sank to minus 4S5". {Feb. 10) We estimated on this day, that it must have sunk to 48": but, at this point, our instrument was uncertain. The Esquimaux arrived, with some faces much frost-bitten, selling us the skin of a young bear and some other articles. They in- formed us that the expected bear had not yet arrived. There was an aurora seen ; but not so marked in character as to deserve des- cription. On the following day {Feb. 11), they brought more things for sale ; the wooden-legged man also bringing a thimble and a ■•1 l\ t TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 197 ith the Iher- g calm and wo had not vas in great ill luck to hould cease le following uf^h the ice. »d to be six last month. I at the cor- , in the af- le alongside, ;ellent skins, lore. and in- *vhich would purchase it. II the course y cold to the )mpany with th the usual rrived, our nd, the cold erected for e had made [mperatures. vening. the have sunk h'tain. The ten, selling They in- There was leserve des- lore things ible and a i '3 i needle which one or the natives had either found or stolen; for which he was rewarded l»y a sail-needle. {Felf. 1:2) The thermometer rose four ". Among other articles bouglit this day, was the skin of a glutton ; and as it had been taken in a trap the day before, we proceeded to construct one, in hopes of a similar prey. A seal was also brought in Ihe evening, and a ptar- migan was killed. This was the first day, for a long time, that we had both breakfasted and dined by daylight. {Feb. 24) It was a fine day, though overcast, with a temperature generally about minus 5°. A fine hare was shot, and the new trap finished and set. More skins were purchased ; so that we were in a fair way to get an ample supply of clothing for a long lime. The heat fell to minus 16° on the following day {Feb. 2y). The two fox-traps produced each a female prisoner, one of which was reserved alive. We also bought some sealskin jackets from the natives. {Feb. 26) The weather was much colder, though the fall of the thermometer did not exceed five degrees. The natives brought another skin of a glutton, caught also but the day before, with L*i"« r.iP M 0>i in li !« % ttij i!!; • U :s II U ii' 2rt0 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY three more sealskin jackets. A knife was the established price of all such articles. Whether there was any holiday anionfj them, or whether it was to he taken as a tribute of gratitude, Ikmallik, the geographer, had brought a parly for the purpose of treating us with a »!;!npc. There were not less than twenty. The dance was more like an exhibition of bears than aught else; thoiigh a Savoyard bear, at least , must be admitted to be the better dancer. The dance was followed by a vocal concert, the women ranging them- selves in a semircircle, shutting theireyes, and opening their mouths, while vociferating /tmna Aija with all the power of their throats and lungs. I fear that we were not musicians enough to analyze; and estimate the peculiarities and merits of this national music. The Esquimaux of Greenland, whom we had heard, had very differ- ent conceptions of this art. It remains to be tried by some one else, whether these people also, here and elsewhere along this coast, have the faculty of music, waiting only to be brought forward by education, by hearing what they had never yet heard. We should be as unjust in passing on them an unlimited condemnation, as the early travellers in Southern Africa had proved themselves in the case of the Hottentots; who, under Moravian instruction, have surprised their teachers, and even produced, as their reports say. a rival of Catalan!. I must add, that Ikmallik, being the Cory- phauis I presume, continued dancing in the centre of the semicircle. {Feb, 2" ) This day was very fine, but not so warm. The natives brought some trifles for sale, and the officers saw a glutton and a hare during their excursion. On the Sunday {Feb. 28), it became once more cold, the thermometer falling to 51". A fresh breeze made it severely felt during some attempts at observation in the evening. An entire seal, well adapted for a specimen, was brought by one of the natives, who confirmed also some of the geographical reports of the former man. They departed so early as not to inter- fere with our church service. The ending of this month leaves little to be said in the way of summary. It was a very cold one; and I now believe that the thermometer must have reached to minus 150". The average of the first fourteen days was certainly not less than 40°, and might have been more ; but, in the latter part of the month, the mean did not exceed 28"; the whole corresponding, once more, to those formerly noted as found in former voyages. The oscillations of the barome- % TO HIE \RCriC REGIONS. 201 price of ;ill ; Ihem, or innliik, lh<> ing us Willi ! was morr 1 Savoyard icer. 'riif giiijj them- ;ir inouths, leir Ihroats to analyz(! nal music. k'ery tliffcr- le one else, this coast, 'or ward by We should ion, as the ves in the lion, have eports say. the Cory- einicirole. he natives tton and a it became sh breeze jon in the s brought graphical t to inler- ;l ter were remarkable, as has been noted in the uaily joiUMial, but the mean was 50' IT. A summary of the success of the natives in hunting during this month, gives two white bears, three gluttons, a dozen of foxes, and fifty seals : and as we had also, ourselves, killed or taken five foxes, vvilh some hares, ptarmigans, and willow partridges, this is a country not so destitute of game, even at this time of the year, as has been generally supposed ; while it is thus proved that ihey do not migrate to the south in winter. In our internal comforts and the satisfaction of the men, there was no alteration : all had gone on well. Some valuable observa- tions had been added to our astronomical collection, and many experiments on sound made. Of our communications with the natives, 1 have nothing more to remark; except that we had come to a perfect understanding respecting the price of each article of sale which they brought. Their pilferings, there was reason to hope, were at an end : but it was certain that they considered these acts no vast crime, since the detection generally produced laughter. CHAPTER XIX. PURCHASE OF DOGS FBC/l TUE ^AT1VES— COMMANDER ROSS DEPARTS ON AN EXPEDITION TO THE NATIVE HUTS, FOR INF0R31AT10N — PROCESS OF BUILDING SNOW HUTS— SUMMARY OF THE MONTH OF MARCH. - LfV- le way of that the |ge of the light have In did not I formerly barome- (]t!a?T/i 1, 1830) It was an extremely cold morning, but, to the feelings more than to the thermometer. Two of the natives arriving, 1 accompanied them in a walk, where they pointed out a better place for a trap to catch the glutton ; it being in a pass which they use in going to the northward. One of them was persuaded to sell one of his best dogs : which was warranted for keeping at bay a bear or a musk ox. for finding seal holes, and for drawing a sledge. With 11.. m \i i \l 202 SECOi'SD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY t r^ .;, If surli qiLililies, it was cheaply piirobnsed for n knife. Aa nothing; else vviis olfered for sale, we eoneluded that they liud parted with all their disposable articles. {March "i) Another dog was I)ou(]ht this day, to complete our teem : 1 could not venture to buy more at present, lest we should not be able to feed them. They brought us an account of the death of the old man whom we had remarked at our first meeting. We had not seen him since that day ; and, on ini I • 306 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY l)e taken on board and instructed ; and he therefore remained, on liie return of the others, commencing his attendance at the school on the same evening. {March 18) It being a fine day, Commander Ross took a journey in the sledge about thirty miles to the southward, returning in the evening; and having taken the Esquimaux boy with him, he recei- ved much information. By his account, they had reached half the way to Neilchillee, and it was not, therefore, so far off as we had imagined ; while his information respecting places agreed so well with what we had heard before, as to assure us of his accuracy. He also described a place where they were obliged to cross, in their canoes, a stream of salt water that was always flowing to the east- ward, and which could never be passed in any other manner. As this was not more than a two day's journey, by his account, we hoped soon to be able to explore it, and ascertain the nature of this strait and current. He saw, in this excursion, the track?, of a glut- ton and of a reindeer, but no hving animal. In the course of the day, our friends brought us a fine seal and its young one. In my own walk, I found the tracks of hares and foxes in much greater number than formerly ; and two ravens from the northward flew over the ship. {March 19) The natives brought only trifles this day, and we alio v- ed the boy to go back with them, under a promise of his returning on the following {Marc/iW). They brought us then some more gloves and boots, with a fine dog; as we were now making up a second team, trusting thai we should be able to feed them hereafter in some manner, at least as well as their original masters. Mr. Thom and the surgeon set out to walk to a rock which was determined by the survey to be ten miles off, but were overtaken by night in returning, and did not arrive till very late, nearly exhausted, after having given us some alarm. Nothing of moment was seen from the point in question, as the weather was hazy. I shot two ptarmigans. {March^l) This was a day of most capricious weather, exhibit- ing all kinds of changes, but with an increase of temperature to 31" minus. After church service, some natives came to inquire into the meaning of the guns and the blue lights which we had fired and burnt as signals to the missing officers ; having been much terrified by them. The dog was brought, but one of our own disappeared in return, having probably I^roke loose to follow its own master. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 20; lained, on Ihe school a journey ing in the , he reeei- !d half the is we had ed so well accuracy. $s, in their 3 the east- inner. As count, we ure of this , of a glut- jrse of the e. In my ch greater ward flew We could now easily treat them with boiled seal, and thus could always afford to give them diuuiir. {March 22) In the day, the thermometer rose as high as minus u", sinking to 28" at night. Two women brought back the absent dog, but were sent home for a swivel which was missing from the harness. A little snow fell on the following day {]}Ia?x'/i 23), and the heat rose to 1" plus. The swivel was returned, and a party from the other station brought us a seal, which was bought for an old file, being the article now in demand. We attempted to clear away the snow from our bows, but the water came up and obliged us to desist. {March 24) The temperature rose to pins 16°, and it was thus a mild day : the mean of the twenty-four hours being 1° plus. Par- ties from each of the new stations arrived, and a stray dog was brought back. A dinner was repaid by the national song and dance. A breeze from the north, on the following day ( March 2o ), lowered the temperature to plus 5", and made it cold to the feelings. Together with a party, came two men to settle with us about a journey to Neitchillee ; when it was arranged that they should sleep on board three or four days before the next full moon, which would be about the fifth of April, and then attend Commander Ross. They were to bring their canoes, as we understood, for the purpose of pursuing the deer in the water. {March 26) There was no material change in the weather, and every thing proceeded in the usual manner, except that the men were employed in cutting a dock on the larboard side of the ship, where we were troubled by a leak. The tides ought to have been high to-day, but it was the reverse; the usual irregularities continu- ing. A cold breeze on the following {March 27), did not pre- vent our receiving a visit ; but we had now no dinner to give, and informed them that they must not expect any more till they brought us some seal. {March 28) There was a strong breeze with some snow in the night; and the weather was so thick that it prevented any visit from the Esquimaux: in consequence of which we had a quiet Sunday, and were well pleased to be alone. A clear day {March. 29) fol- lowing, enabled us to get some good observations, particularly two lunar distances with the sun west of the moon ; of the more import- ance, because all our former ones were under the contrary position. 1< %i 1" '!■■ I? i ¥■■ 'I ao8 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY A man and a woman came; bul, brinjjing no seals, were not admit- ted on board. The thermometer rose to plus 115" at noon, and the mean was about zero. {Mm^ch 30) The thermometer rose to 18° phis, being the highest degree it had attained for many months. An Escpiimaux brought some skins. The following day [March 31 ) was equally overcast, and felt warm ; the thermometer being at 20" for thi'ee hours, and not falling below 4" plus. In the evening, four families of the na- tives, comprising fifteen persons, passed the ship to erect new huts about half a mile to the southward. They had four heavy laden sledges, drawn, each, by two or three dogs, bul proceeded very slowly. We went after them to see the process of building the snow house, and were surprised at their dexterity ; one man having closed in his roof within forty-five minutes. A tent is scarcely pitched sooner than a house is here built. The whole process is perhaps worth describing. Having ascer- tained, by the rod used in examining seal holes, whether the snow is sufficiently deep and solid, they level the intended spot by a wooden shovel, leaving beneath a solid mass of snow not less than three feet thick. Commencing then in the centre of the intended circle, which is ten feet or more in diameter, different wedge-shaped blocks are cut out, about two feet long, and a foot thick at the outer part; then trimming them accurately by the knife, they proceed upwards until the courses, gradually inclining inwards, terminate in a perfect dome. The door being cut out from the inside, before it is quite closed, serves to supply the upper materials. In the mean time the women are employed in stuffing the joints with snow, and the boys in constructing kennels for the dogs. The laying the snow sofa with skins, and the insertion of the ice window, complete the work; the passage only remaining to be added, as it is after the house is finished, together with some smaller huts for stores. Some of the children, in the mean time, were aping their parents in a toy architectureof their own. One, whose hand had been bitten by a dog, was taken on board to the surgeon ; and we supplied them with water, to save them the trouble of thawing for themselves. 'J'he summary of the month of March, now ended, does not present much variety. The minimum temperature had been minus 40", the highest plus 20" ; the mean being minus 20°, and thus one degree greater than that of the former voyages, as formerly com- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2n9 pared. The ice was dissolvinfj, thoiif^^h slowly, on the south side of the ship, and the rocks were bared of snow l)y the sun. Our trade with the natives had produced a good stock of clothing and skins ; and having got rid of two of our own dogs, which were useless, we had purchased eight new ones, thus having a good team of ten. The information accpiired respectmg Neitchillee led us to Ihinkthala passage westward must exist there; the more detailed account of the natives being, that there is really a strait to the north- ward of it, communicating with a sea to the westward, and present- ing a strong easterly current. In this channel also they mentioned some islands, called by them Shag-a-voke, signifying strong stream ; farther saying, that the waves in this place often broke very high. Hcsides all this, they described another channel to the northward, by which the ship could go better into an open sea, where no land was to be seen. Though now on terms of entire confidence, the intended pupil had not been persuaded to remain, nor could we obtain any substitute. He had not returned after his first departure, on what we had believed a mere holiday or leave of abocnce. The lane of gravel on the ice, intended, through the action of the sun on it, to thaw a channel for us before it would naturally break up, had been finished ; and the dogs and sledges were in good training and order. All our internal arrangements continued satisfactory, and all were in perfect health. Game had been very scarce; the four foxes constituted our chief captures. The highest tide had been six feet ; the mean of the barometer 30 inches. The triangulalicn had proceeded ; but the observations in this n^onth, respecting occultations by the moon, were not more success- ful than formerly. It was always cloudy at those times. Some transits and lunar distances were of value. It is lastly worthy of remark, be it explained as it may, if indeed it be a steady fact, which we do not yet know, that all the coldest days occurred near the time of the full moon, and a little after, and that the tempera- ture was highest immediately after the change. s* "^i «!■ i ¥ J, «!> .4- 1' "ff % '' i ^If 210 SECO?ID VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XX. PaOG£EDI]NGS TO THE TENTH OF APRIL — JOURNEY AND NARRATIVE OF COMiMANDER ROSS. (Jpril 1, 1830) There was snow, with a much lower tempera- ture and a cold breeze. The natives came to us from all their quar- ters; and Awack, the future guide to Neitchillee, was especially welcome. The nearest party had been unsuccessful in seal hunt- ing. The next day {April ^) was Uke the summer to the feelings, and the thermometer rose to plus 22". The Esquimaux were still unsuccessful, and began to fear they should be short of provisions. Seeing the sextant in use for an observation, they were very desirous to know if it related to seals, and if we saw any. The sun was sufficient to dry the washed clothes, and the melted snow was every where flowing in water down the rocks. {Jptil 3) A seal was brought, and exchanged for a file; but there was still a failure of this hunt. In proof of the effect of external heat on our arrangements within, the quantity of ice in the conden- sers, this week, was but two bushels. It was a few degrees colder than yesterday : but it now became necessary to build a snow wall round the pillar to which the thermometer was attached, to protect it from the reflected heat of the surrounding snow. {April 4) Sunday did not prevent the natives coming from all quarters; but we did not allow them to impede us in our usual duties. Among them, Awack and Ooblooria, the two promised guides, came with their sledges, dogs, and provisions ; and all the former information was confirmed. Our own preparation for the journey had been completed, and the officers that were to accom- pany them were ready. The thermometer fell to minus 8" at night. {April '6) The weather was cloudy, with a moderate breeze, which, being from the north-eastward, was favourable for travelling. Commander Ross, with the chief mate, Blanky, and the two Esqui- maux, departed at ten, on two sledges, with ten days' provisions : I I * i'^'^i TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?»S. 211 IRRATIVE but the tliermometer failing lo minus 4", we, were concerned thai their departure had not been delayed. Still more unfortunately, snow began to fall at one o'clock, and by evening, there was a gale of wind, which we ftared would arrest them entirely. Our conso- lation was, that our two officers had with them the most experienced and active of the Esquimaux guides, and that they would therefore be housed in good time. The natives from the eastward brought us a fine seal, and we were thus enabled to afford some assistance to Tiagashu's family, which seemed to be in want. {April ii) It continued to blow fresh, with snow, shifting from ihe northward to the eastward ; yet the thermometer became plus ;21° at noon; while, in the evening, it went round to the south. A blue light was hoisted, and a signal rocket thrown up, to indicate the ship's place to the travellers. At night, the wind moderated a Utile. {Jpn'l 7) This morning was again stormy, with drift and falling snow; but, towards evening, it became calm and clear. The same signals were then repeated, though we hoped the party would have reached Neitchillee. Some of our neighbours came to beg food ; and as their huts were known to be empty, we supplied them with some seal's flesh. ( April ^) The next day was still snowy, but calm at first, followed by variable winds in the course of the afternoon. Nine Esquimaux came for meat, of which we fortunately had some still remaining ; and they were so hungry that they devoured the seal's flesh raw ; not, however, forgetting to take some home to their families. The men were now making various preparations on board for the summer : the signals were repeated at night. (yjpril 9) The snow was still worse, and the drift obscured every thing ; the wind finally settling in a heavy gale from the south- westward. The rocket was repeated at night, and at the hour agreed on, namely ten o'clock; attention to the ship's place being first secured by a blue light : since, by this method, the longitude of the expedition could be ascertained through the chronometer. The Esquimaux came, but brought nothing. One of our foxes escaped, and probably fell into their hands. The thermometer sank to minus 15". {April 10) The gale decreased, and it became moderate by nine. At five in the evening our parly returned ^ after a very laborious journey, and much suffering from the cold, but without any serious ^" r;?- :«^ m 'trv 312 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY accident. They had seen the sea to the westward, and were confi- 'DEK ROSS. {April y, 1830) The morning was far from proving favourable for our journey, as it snowed hard, and there was a fresh northerly wind : my frnic'es, indeed, disliked the look of the weather so much, that they were very desirous of deferring the expedition to another day. I still hoped, however, that it would improve; and as I was anxious to reach the spot which we had been looking to with so much desire and interest, we at length prevailed on them, and set off at six in the morning. Our party consisted of Awack and Ooblooria, as guides, together with Mr. Blanky, the chief mate, and myself. Our own baggage was lashed on two sledges, drawn by dogs; and being much heavier than that of our companions, we were much troubled to keep up with them, dspecially as they occasionally rode in their sledges, while we were obliged to run by the side of ours, and very often to drag them through the deep snow drifts which were per- petually occurring. Our direction was to the south-westward, and close along the shore, until noon, when the wind increased to a fresh gale, and the driving snow became so thick, that Awack, who was leading the parly, lost his way, and getting among some hummocky ice, had his sledge broken in two places. This accident had nearly put an TO THE AR(JIC REGIONS. 213 1 ■4 cml to our Journey before il was well commenced, as they had no means of repairinjj the damage. On Ihal account, and because of llic gale, which it was now impossible to face should we have desired to return, the guides began to build a snow hut ; a project which we did not at all approve of, could any means of pro- ceeding be discovered. Mr. lUanky, therefore, suggested the pos- sibility of mending their sledge by means of their spears; but as I knew that they would not consent to this surrender of their weapons, 1 broke them both, without asking any questions, into lengths fit for the purpose. As might have been expected, this was followed by a sudden burst of united surprise and anger; but on assuring them that 1 would give them two much better spears as soon as we should return to the ship, they became pacified, and set about the work with the utmost goodnature. Having succeeded in this, we set off once more, in spite of the snow and the gale, but found ourselves even more hampered than we had expected ; since, in addition to these extreme annoyances, we had the ill fortune to fall in with a considerable tract of rough and hummocky ice. This occupied us during two hours of severe hibour, when we once more contrived to reach the mainland. The guides, however, were now completely at fault, as they could not see twenty yards before them, from the thick drifting of the snow- storm; so that we were oldigcd to give up all farther attempts for the present, and to consent to their building a snow hut. This was completed in half an hour ; and certainly never did we feel better pleased with this kind of architecture, which, in so very short a time, produced for us a dwelling, affording a shelter at least, as perfect as we could have obtained within the best house of stone. It was, indeed, barely large enough to hold our party of four ; but in the wretched plight that we now were, even a worse accommodation than this would have been most acceptable. Our clothes were so penetrated by the fine snow dust, and frozen so hard, that we could not take them off for a long time, and not till the warmth of our bodies had begun to soften them. ^^ e also suf- fered exceedingly from thirst; so that while the Esquimaux were busied with the arrangements of their building, we were employed in melting snow by the aid of a spirit lamp. The quantity which we thus produced in a short time, was sufficient for the whole party : while the delight of our guides was only equalled by their 'Ail m "<■ 1 1 4i S14 SECOND VOY/Vr.E OF DISCOVERY 4 if. fill IJ-- 1 -I f t li 1 siu'prise ; since, w illi Ihfim, the same operation is the work of three or four hours, i)erformetl as it is, in stone vessels, over their open oil lamps. There was, however, an attendant evil, owin(» chiefly to the ex- ceedinf^smallness of our hut. Its walls nnturally melted also; and so fast, that our dresses became soon welted to such a decree, that we were compelled to take th<'m off and p;et into the fur bajjs. Here at length we could keep out this enemy, and in those we slept. I have already said, that we travelled alongf the mainland durino[ the whole of this day ; but as the density of the snow drift pre- vented me from seeinfy objects, at any time, more than a quarter of a mile off, I was unable to form even a tolerably correct idea of the direction in which we had travelled. I believe, nevertheless, that the distance did not exceed twenty miles. This, however, had occupied us during eij;ht or nine hours, notwithstanding the rapi- dity with which we had performed the first part of the Journey; and so many hours of exposure to labour and cold, together with the severe exertions that we had undergone among the rough ice. had very completely tired us all. {April Q) We had, in return, the advantage of sleeping most soundly ; and might not have awoke very soon, had it not been for a mutiny and rebellion which broke out among the dogs. They had rid themselves of their traces and got loose ; while, never being over fed, and at that time, doubtless, tolerably hungry, they had attacked the sledge of Awack for the purpose of devouring the frozen fish of which it was constructed, unless, indeed, they pre- ferred the hides of the musk ox by which these were bound together. The owner soon ran to the rescue ; and as the damage was only commenced, the repairs were neither very difficult nor tedious. We had, indeed, but too much time on our hands for this work ; as the inclemency of the weather rendered it impossible to proceed. This leisure enabled us to have a good deal of conversation w ith our new friends; who being now at their ease, and free from the apprehensions which they had at first entertained, began to improve very much in our estimation : displaying, in particular, far more acuteness and intelligence than we could have expected to find under countenances so heavy, and physiognomies so dull. What was of most importance, however, to us, was the information which M i iijj ork of thrf'p r Iheir opp?i ^ to the ex- (I also; and lef][ree, that e fur bajys. n those we land durinty ^ drift pre- 1 quarter of idea of the heless, that ivever, had 1(5 the rapi- le journey ; fether with rough ice. ?ping most ot been for They had ever bein{y they had )uring the they pre- together. was onlv ious. We k ; as the ed. ition with from the improve far more to find What on which ii TO THE ARCTK R Ed IONS. SIA they afforded respertini;the nature of (he coast,. nid the ocean to the westward; the latter of which they represented to be of great extent. [•"or Ihe first time, also, they now spoke of an island, which they called Oo-geoo-lik, and where, in the summer, as they informed us, we shouhl see great numbers of Kscpiimaux; naming parli( idarly, among those, a man who was described as lame, and a woman called Kablalla, who was spoken of as a personage of great im- portance among them; and giving me, in addition, the name of her husband and children, together with those of many more of her kindred. They described the place termed Oo-geoo-lik as very distant; saying also that it required many days' journey across the salt water, to reach it. This confirmed their previous account of the extent of the sea to the westward; but I could not at this time con- trive to make them understand my wishes to go there. I was there- fore obliged to content myself with listening to the anecdotes which they related about their people, and to answer, as well as I could, the several questions which they asked me about the Esquimaux whom I had seen at Igloolik, in whose concerns they seemed to take a very lively interest. Their principal questions, however, related to the manner of hunting among those people, to their amusements, and to their singing; and they were also curious to know whether I had seen the " angekoks," and witnessed their tricks. With all this I had for- merly been familiar; having been on many excursions with those people, after the seal and the walrus, and having seen also enough of the operations of the conjurers. I was to say also whether 1 had heard '••Torn-gab,'" the spirit, and to repeat what he had said; all of which questions 1 answered as well as I could, so that there was amusement at least, if not employment, for this day of detention. 1 was also obliged to repeat frequently the names of the "angekoks,"' with those of their wives and children, as it was their desire to re- member those; for which they laboured by frequent repetition. They seemed greatly amused to hear that so many of them had two wives ; adding also, that they knew a man to the westward who was thus doubly provided, having brought them from Repulse bay. From this I should have concluded that the practice of bigamy was very rare among the present tribe; but we afterwards found abun- dant reason to recal this conclusion. "^ ^MWtn n %1 ^\^ •itll tiie SECO.M) VOYAGh OF DISCON KRY :| IJ ^ii lit: n i# We wne iiiiirli uwvv iiitercslt'il. Iiowcvcr, in licariiitj lliciii rehilr the rinMiiuslaiHTH wliicli lia«l l»roii|;lit tlicm lo lliis pari of the coast, and lo onr inniiedialc n('i|;lil)oui-lioo(l. Two of llicir people had been fishinjjto the northwani, at a place called Ovv-weel-ltc-wcck, and there saw the ship beset by the ice and carried past to the sonth- ward; this beiii[j. as well as I could conjectnre, on the second or third of Septend)er. Heinf; much alarmed in conscipience, they immediately set off to join the main body of their tribe at i\ei-tyel-Ie, where they remained till the arrival of a woman called Ka-kc-kai;-iu. This person had a sister who was one among the party that had been with us at Winter island, in the former voyage to this part of the world; and from her, they received so enticing an account of the reception w Inch the latter had met with from us on that occa- sion, that they came to the resolution of going lo seek us, wherever the Victory might chance lo have been brought up. This they accordingly did; and our companions now described lo us their sensations at the first sight of our footmarks in the snow, their astonishment at the size of the prints, and the consultation which was held, to det(M'mine whether they should ])roceed or not. The eloquence of Ka-ke-kag-iu, however, overcame all their fears; and they now repeated to us the delight which they had felt when, after drawing up in a line to receive us, they had seen us throw away our arms. During all this lime their oratory did nol interrupt their caling ; for this is an occupation never neglected, as long as there is any- thing lo eat ; nor could all our experience among this gluttonous race diminish Ihe perpetually recurring surprise that we felt at the persistence of their appetites, the capacity of their stomachs, and the energy of their digestive powers. To say that they ate thus from hunger, or even from appetite, cannot be true : no human boing, governed by the instinct of appetite alone, could feel such wants, in whatever way nature contrives to dispose of the enormous superfluity. No animal, however carnivorous and voracious, acts thus : the very glutton itself, in spile of its reputation, or of the truth of its name, if truth it be, fills itself and is satisfied. Man alone eats from pure wantonness; that he may gratify his taste, not satisfy his hunger; if, indeed, this is not also the frequent effect of the principle of avarice or appropriation. This it is, to be a rational being; but, as in many other cases, and worse ones, it is to use 10 THE AllCrir, HEGIONS. ai7 that reason, not to control the rvil passions, liiit to aid tlicni; lo make man, ulicncvTr he chuusrs so to be. the most evil animal in (•real ion. ( tpril 7) The provisions in ([uestion were, however, eonsnme .^IH '•:?! ■': U 318 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY of seal and a drink of oil; and how could I expert that our pursuits of this kind, which must really have seemed abundantly pur- poseless to them, and which, perhaps, may not seem of any vast importance to persons of very different information, were to in- fluence them, when put into the balance against the slightest wishes or caprices of their own? To carry my object, I therefore engaged them apart in conver- sation, while Mr. Blanky selected some of the best pieces of seal's flesh in our possession, part of a considerable provision that we had made for the dogs, and wrapped them up in a piece of canvas. I then informed them that I should proceed to Nei-tyel-le without them, that they would thus lose the promised reward, and that I had moreover plenty of meat in my possession, as they could now see. On this, they consented to go on, and we were therefore soon on our road again towards our original destination. After crossing a neck of land, about three miles broad, and occupied by two small lakes, which, as we were informed, were well stocked with fish, we again descended upon the salt-water ice, which the guides described as belonging to the head of a maritime inlet to which they gave the name of Tar-rio-nit-yoke. The mean- ing of li.is phrase, however, is, "- not salt water : " so that it is pro- bably a place into which there runs a river, or rivers, so consider- able as to justify this uame. Thus it is that its exit, or mouth, is also termed by them Shag-a-voke, which means " it runs fast ; *' there being probably some great accumulation from the interior fresh w aters and snow during Ihe th^-^w ; so as to cause a rush through a narrow opening, at one part of the year, sufficient to hive given rise to this descriptive appellation. We halted on a small islet in the north-west corner of this bay, where we found Tul-lo-ack's canoe covered with stones, having been buried in ihis manner to preserve the timbers from rotting; while the skin covering had also been taken off, for the same reason. The wood itself, they had procured, as they informed us, very far to the westward, in the neighbourhood of Oo-geoo-lik. From this place we now continued our course directly inland ; ascending the bed of a river, and passing several narrow lakes ; travelling through deep snow for the space of four or five miles. Our progress was necessarily, therefore, very slow, until we reached the banks of the farthest one, to which they gave the name of Ty- m lA TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 219 shajT-ge-wiick and which they described as abounding in three kinds of trout. I here shot two grouse which had allowed me to approach them sufficiently near to render my aim certain ; to the ecpial sur- prise and delight of our guides, who had never before witnessed the effect of fire-arms. The wind now increased, and blew over the snow so keenly, carrying with it a perfect torrent of drift snow. Hint we were no lunger able to face it; so that we were at last, at seven in the even- ing {Jpril 7), obliged to betake ourselves to the shelter of a snow hut, which our guides built at the west end of the lake where we were now engaged in our cold and laborious journey. Our friends had noticed and recollected the inconvenience that we had experienced from the smallness of the hut which they had con- structed on the preceding occasion, and the present one was there- fore made considerably larger. The Esquimaux, as every one knows, are very short, though thickly made ; and thence, calcu- lating for themselves, and forgetting our much greater stature and longer limbs, that which they had made before was so confined, that we could not stretch ourselves out, without opening the doorway and putting our feet and legs beyond it; which, in such a temperature as that of this country, was l)y no means agreeable. We were now very thankful, even for the small portion of obser- Viition which had discovered this fact, and for the goodnatiu'o, or politeness, which had laboured to find the remedy. (Jpn'l S) In the morning it was foggy, with much snow. Our guides therefore proposed to leave the baggage behind, that we might travel the more quickly, and thus be enabled to reach Nei-lyel-le. and afterwards return to sleep at the hut. I could not have selected a more unfavourable day for a visit to a place of so much interest ; but as I well knew the capricious and changeable characters of these people, I was unwilling to make any objections. In any event, 1 should thus have seen the place and ascertained the way to it ; so as to enable me to reach and examine it at some future day, under more favourable circumstances. AVe accordingly set off at nine in the morning ; and after passing two small narrow lakes, called Kung-uck from the hilly country by which they were bounded, we arrived by a short and steep descent at the place named Pad-le-ack ; a word which means '' journey's end. " The total absence of any tide-mark made me, »« i» 'If at- ''i.i I:;, 820 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY nt first, doubt whether we had really reached the sea ; but the man Awack having cast off his dogs, one of them soon found a seal hole, and thus allowed me to taste the salt water. The occurrence of some hummocky sea ice, shortly after, would alone have set this question at rest ; as it completed my satisfaction by ensuring this essential fact respecting our geography and the journey which we had thus made. Keeping on our course to the south-west until eleven o'clock, we passed an island which the guides called 0-wuk-she-o-wik, because the particular cod, termed by themO-wuk, is caught near this place, during the summer and the autumn ; frequenting its shores, as they informed us, in great abundance. From this we turned toward the south, and, after that, to the south-east; when, passing first a small lake where I procured a meridian altitude of the sun, and traversing a low shore of limestone, we arrived at the great lake of Nei-tyel-le at one o'clock. The east shore of this piece of water presented a ridge of granite hills, and the guides pointed out on the faces of these, several win- ter huts which they called 0-ka-u-eet. The guide Awack had left his canoe here ; and he therefore separated from us to go in search of it, while we pursued our course to the southward, soon reaching the banks of a river. I attempted in vain, at this time, to form some estimate of the size of this lake ; for the snow drift was so heavy as entirely to prevent this, since I could never see more than i) mile in any direction, during the time that we were near it. We found the canoe belonging to the other guici^, on a small isl( t in the river; and, at this point, we estimated the stream to be half a mile in breadth ; while, as the ice on it was of very consi- derable thickness, I was inclined to believe that the water was deep. From the information of the guide Ooblooria, it runs into, the sea in a direction to the south-west of this islet, flowing out ol the south-eastern end of the lake which we had passed. The banks were of limestone ; and, from some fragments of this rock, with the assistance of Mr. Blanky, I erected a cairn, and wc went through the usual ceremony of taking possession. At three o'clock we had huished all that we could now do in this quarter, and prepared for our return. In no long time we found the canoe, which Awack had left for us to pick up, while he went forward to melt some snow to be V'' TO illE ARCTIC REGIO?iS. 2-^1 rt-atly on our arrived al the liul. At six we reached the sea unee more, and Ihe river of Pad-le-ak al seven ; at which lime the wea- Ihcr had become settled and clear. I therefore ascended an elevated ground, with Oohlooria, and thus obtained a very perfect view <>t this extensive inlet. He here informed me. that to the quarter he pointed, extending fi :>iii north-west to south-west, there was a continuous open sea, or ,i sr^ free of all ice, during the summer, and that at a short distance beyond a high and bold cape, which terminated the norlh-easl shore of the inlet, no land could be seen to the westward. Bui. from tlie south-west to the south-east, there was a tract of land connecting the ground on which we stood with Ac-cool-le and the sliores of Repulse bay, while there was no way into this sea from the south ; so that if our shi]) desired to reach Nei-tyel-le from her jtresent position, she must go round a long way lo the northward. l'"rom this evidence which appeared to be as accurate as he was clear and consistent in giving it, I concluded that we were now looking on the great western ocean, of which these peojjle had so frequently spoken to us, that the land on which we stood was part of the great continent of America, and that inhere was any passage to the westward in this quarter, it must be sought to the northward of our present position. To the cape in question I gave the nam«' of Isabella, being that of my sister, on whose birthday il was discovered. The guide Oohlooria now pointing to the south-west, said that the way to Oo-geoo-lik lay in this direction ; on which I endeavoured to jursuade him lo accompany me there in the coming spring. Jn this, however, 1 could not succeed by any olfers or promises that 1 could make ; his objections seeming to arise from the great tlis- tance, and from the difficulty of procuring food ; the la.st being a reason far too solid to be removed by aughi but the complete demonstration of a sufficient and well-secured supply. In the course of this discussion, he informed me that some of ihe tribe which inhabits that place had brought their people drift wood from it, but that none of them had ever been there, so that their com- munication was very limited, and their knowledge, of course, but imperfect. We reached our hut at nine in the evening, and found that Awack had, as we had expected, arrived before us. He had dis- m 333 SECOND \OYAGE OV DISCOVERY playod his newly acquired learning, or his ingenuity, in a rather unexpected manner ; having succeeded in procuring a light by means of the oxymuriatic matches which he had seen us use for that purpose ; and he had thus provided us with an ample supply of water; a refreshment of wliich we were much in need, and the want or scarcity of which is always exceedingly tantalizing in a country of snow and ice ; seeing that we are living among water, walking on water, and eternally annoyed by water, in one at least of its forms, and always forgetting that the snow and ice of this frozen land is a far other thing than that of our own winters, and not to be converted into drink without great labour and expense of heat. Being now on our way home, we for the first time afforded our- selves a warm mess of grouse soup, while we also boiled some seal's flesh for our companions. Ooblooria was completely tired, from his great exertions during the day. His partner was suffering from snow blindness ; and thus it fell on him to lead the way, as it was unknown to ourselves. Thus la! ^aring through snow which was often very deep, with the drift in his face, and at a very quick rate, at the head of the sledge, he bad gone at least forty miles, so that his fatigue was no cause of surprise. All slept soundly, and, by ten o'clock the following morning {April 9), we resumed our journey homeward. At noon 1 observed for the latitude, near the east end of the great lake of Ty-shug-ge-wuck, and found it to be 69" 38' 35". Here Awack left us, but rejoined us again, within four hours, at Tar-rio- nit-yoke ; bringing with him the paunch of a deer, which they es- teem a great delicacy, together with some fish that he had concealed in the summer. We arrived at our hut on the inlet of Too-nood- lead at four in the afternoon, and just in time to escape a most vio- lent gale of wind from the northward, accompanied by a very heavy drift, which continued without intermission during the whole night, and made us doubly thankful for the shelter which our little nest afforded us. It was sufficiently cold too ; for the thermome- ter fell to minus 16". {April 10) Towards nine on the following morning the gale be- gan to abate ; and as we were anxious to reach the ship, we set out at noon, when the wind gradually subsided, and the remainder of the journey proved very agreeable, as the weather at length became t-U, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 223 in a rather f a light by I us use for mple supply eed, and the ;aliznig in a long water, one at least \ ice of this winters, and and expense [forded our- 1 some seal's tired, from iffering from ay, as it was / which was y quick rate, iles, so that lly, and, by esumed our of the great S5". Here ;, at Tar-rio- lich they es- ad concealed Too-nood- a most vio- by a very ig the whole ch our little thermome- the gale be- we set out imainder of gth became as fine as possible. The guide Ooblooria was however, in a very lamentable condition; suffering from snow blindness, and his knees being ulcerated from the friction of his frozen trousers. The Esquimaux sledge was occupied by the three canoes which formed the principal object of their journey, so that there was no room in it for this unlucky man, who could scarcely see his way. in consequence of the streaming of tears from his inflamed eyes. 1 therefore desired him to seat himself in ours : and was much pleased at the difficulty which I had in prevailing on him; as his politeness or goodnature did not choose that we should walk for his accommodation. This, however,^ proved of no inconvenience, either to 31. Blanky or myself, who were fresh, and had not laboured more than was necessary to keep us warm. Knowing now also the ground, we took on ourselves the office of guides, walking at the head of the sledges alternately, to point out the best way through the rough ice and hummocks. It was, finally, the only good day and the only agreeable journey which we had experienced since quilling the ship; while it also permitted me to make all the ob- servations necessary for the future survey of this line of coast ; and thus we at length reached the Victory at six in the evening. CHAPTER XXII. PROCEEDINGS IN THE SHIP, AND WITH THE NATIVES. {April 11, 1830) The wind became settled, and the sky serene, though there was still a little snow. The travellers were recovered; and Ihe guides having received the promised files, departed very happy ; being, however, to return the next day for a new spear each, in place of those that were broken, with wood to repair one of the canoes, which was much damaged. The average dimensions of these was about twenty feet in length, by a foot and half in breadth. Some specimens of the salmon and lake trout were pro- cured ; but we afterwards got much better ones from the sides of i^|| '^ fit 221 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY N ■A 1 '>M ! 1 ',4 i I 'IP i«j"+ ■|P the sledges that we had purchased from them, which were formed of these fishes, frozen together into a mass. The service of the day. bunday, was not omitted. {April 12) There was a fresh breeze from the north-eastward. I)Ul it was not cold. It was necessary to build a new phice for the thermometer, the other being inundated with water. A party came from the huts to thank us, bringing a valuable seal-skin as a pre- sent, with another of a pair of gloves lor the mate, in lieu of a borrowed pair which the dogs had eaten. They received their wood of course, and gave us the native names of the fish used in construct- ing their sledges, which we had bought, informing us they were caught in the lake of Neilchillee. The descriptions of these, amount- ing to four, must besought in the report on the Natural History of this country. ( yyW/ 15) The temperatin-e rose so much, as nearly to reach the freezing point, and the sky was overcast. It was still remark- able, that during the changes of the wind on this day, the highest degree of the thci mometer was when it blew from the north, and that it sank very quickly when the wind changed to the south. We were not yet prepared with a solution for this fact. It is more easy to say than to prove, that there was open sea to the north, and that the south wind blew over a great extent of frozen land. There was ice enough, and land enough also, in the former direction, to render this explanation more acceptable in the closet, to those whom words will satisfy, than to us who knew the country. It was our business at least to wait for a better, whether that should arrive or not. A native came to beg a new slick for his spear, in lieu of his own, which was broken : but we thought it expedient to refuse him. To give lightly, was to deprive ourselves of the power of rewarding: even had it not been absolutely necessary to keep up the price of our commodities, 1 ^st they should fall to no value, and deprive us of the future means of purchasing what was indispensable. {Jpril \\) A visit from our friends today was satisfactory, inasmuch as we found that they had all recommenced taking seals. The weather, both on this and the following day {April l-J), was mild and tranquil : and we received visits from both settlements. \\\\\q\\ were now united into one, so as to comprise nine families in eight huts. The vessel had heeled so much, from the failure of the ice on one side, that is was necessary to remove the weight of snow i-fii TO THE ARCilC REGIONS. 225 Irom Ihat part of the iJcok. It was now also lime to clear away the snow-hank round the ship, heinjj no longer wanted. This found lis work for the following day [yipril 16) also. The temperature during these three days vacillated on each side of zero ; the greatest rise heing plus ii". On the last, another visit informed us that some of the party had removed to an inlel northward of their lust j)Osilion. {April \1) (iommander Ross and the mate departed on the sledge. The natives brought us a skin and a seal, and 1 was again teased by one, whde making observations, to show him where the seals might be found. To gel rid of him, 1 pointed to a place, at hazard; and. in the event, acciuireil the reputation of a conjurer, inasmuch as they afterwards caught three. Prognostication was, however. J trade far too dangerous to our reputation, to be iudtdged in; and i hoped that the opportunities would not often be forced on us in this manner. One of the seals was very gratefully brought to me, as an acknowledgment ; but the bearer w as nevertheless rewarded with a file. The lirst snow buntings of the season were seen this day. Commander lloss returned in the evening from the newly erected northern huts, about si\ miles off: and having explored the reported inlet, determined that there was no ])assage ill that direction. Thus was one of our projects exterminated ; but there were two still remaining. (JpfillS) This Sunday was a calm one; but the temperaturedid not rise beyond 11" plus. After church, one of the men brought hack the iron door of the fox-trap which his brother had stolen after he had built it. There seemed more temptation to steal, than desire lo retain; for they never had any reluctance in returning what had been stolen. Their opinion seemed to be, that although it was wrong to steal, no harm was done if the owner did not miss the jtroperty : an argument not uncommon, I am sorry to say, among ilieir betters in our own country, but not the more defensible be- cause it has an apologist in Shakspeare. Making no concealment from their friends, these did not fail to inform : while, not denying when accused, they seemed to consider the whole matter, the re- proach of thief, and all else, as a "• good joke." Yet they sometimes brought peace offerings ; as they did on this day, in a small seal. I also recovered the trough of the artificial horizon, which had been missed for two days, together with a dog which had been detained ; vi.. m. I I" VI :*1 i r n- iw^' 226 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 'I ■Mi. Ht the culprit, who was goin{j to Neitchillee, being apparently very penitent, and desirous of making friends with us before his depar- ture. All of them were about to remove ; and it is probable that we were more sorry than they, at a parting, after which, as we then thought, we were not likely to meet again. (April 19) It blew fresh, with thick drift snow, but it did not prevent many of the natives from coming to us, to take a second farewell. Each received some present; and at ten, they drove off to the southward, leaving their former habitations empty. They were evidently sorry at parting, though expecting to see us at Neitchillee; and their final adieu was a universal shout of thanks and goodluck, In their own, now tolerably intelligible, tongue. (April 20) There was a cold breeze till evening, when it became cdlm. A seal was brought to us from the northern village; and Ikmallik's son proposed to be a guide to Shag-a-voke, the station near Neilchillee, where we were desirous of examining a strong current of the tide. He was accordingly kept on board till the morning, when the expedition was to take place : the promised reward being a file. They told us that they had seen thi first gull of the season, on the day before, which was good news; but we could not persuade them to remain all night, because they had promised to return. The engineers were employed in cutting up the boilers, to obtain a new sheathing for the outside, v/here the iron had been originally bad, and whence arose some of our leak- mess. The thermometer did not rise beyond zero. (April '21) Commander Ross, and Blanky the mate, departed with their guide and seven days' provision ; the weather cold, but clear, and the wind favourable. One of the former delinquents brought a seal-skin, and his brother a spear; but they were bought, not accepted. On their complaining that they had taken no seals, they were informed that it was on account of the iron which they had stolen ; an accusation which induced the former to confess re- specting some, of which we did not know. On the twenty-second of April, it was colder than it had been for a month ; the thermometer falling to minus 9°. The natives brought a large seal and four skins, which were bought; while they informed us, at the same time, that they were soon to leave their present station for a more southern one. At eight, our own officers returned from their journey, leaving the guide, who was H TO TDE ARCTIC UEGIONS. 227 quite exhausted, with his friends, who had encamped six miles farther, to the south of our station. In spite of the cohl and drift, they had succeeded in ascertainini; that there was a crooked channel, not more than two hundred feet witle, at the new settlement of Shajj-a-voke ; that it was a mile in icnjjlh, and lay at the bottom of an inlet, while also leading iidand, to the westward, into a spacious basin, five miles in diameter. It was the same which they had crossed in their former journey, be- fore they came to the reported inlet into the western sea, where they had ascertained the existence of a narrow isthmus. Th(! capes which bound the entrance of tliis inlet were visible from the ship, as was the continent to the south-cast, which seemed to trend towards Akullee in Repulse bay. But I must give the narrative of Comman- der lloss in his own words. lC)J |.| CHAPTER XXIII. COMMANDER ROSSSSEGOND JOURNEY A!ND NARRATIVE. (1830) We had already ascertained that it was the western ocean which we had formerly seen across the narrow isthmus of that tract of land which we afterwards named Boothia ; and coupling this knowledge with the account which the Esquimaux had given us of the place which they called Shag-a-voke, and where they described a strong current running from the westward , through a narrow strait, we conceived the not unnatural hope that we might there find some passage into the western sea. The na- tives, indeed, gave us no encouragement ; assuring us that the land was here continuous from north to south within the whole range of their knowledge, and affirming positively that there was no passage where we fancied that one might possibly exist. But we did not think ourselves at all justified in taking this on their showing : they might not be correct; and, at any rate, we were sure that we should leave a source of repentance for ourselves, and probably a ground i $ \ N m i 'P !| 1 I m TiH SECOMI V()Y\(;ii OF DISCOVEHY rbr ropronch from our coimlryinen, .sho"lany us. Noak-wush-yuk, a lad of sixteen or seventeen, offered to act as my };uide, and we accordingly began our journey on the twenty-first of April, at an early hour in the morning. ( yip?'il 21 ) The day commenced, unluckily, with haze and snow; and there was too much wind to allow us to travel with comfort or expedition ; especially as that brought with it the usual snow drift, which is the almost invariable attendant of a winter gale in these regions. Wc nevertheless held on toward the south-west, along the land, until wc reached the inlet leading to Shag-a-voke : getting sight of its entrance, and landing on one of the three islets which lie off the cape, which they term Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk. at four in the afternoon. Here the guide endeavoured to persuade me that this was the place called Shag-a-voke ; but it differed so much from the tiescription which I had received from Ooblooria that, on my point- ing up the inlet, he immediately said Shug-loo-ooanga, "I have told a story,'' and begged to be allowed to build a hut : saying that he was so much fatigued that he could go no farther. By this time I le wind had subsided, and the weather, wliicb had before been so <]isagreeable, was succeeded by a beautiful evening. I'nwilling, therefore, to lose the advantage afforded by weather as rare as it was fine, the boy was put on the sledge, and we proceeded along the north-west shore of Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk, in a west-south- vvesterly direction : during which little journey I had an opportunity of ascertaining its general appearance. The entrance of this inlet is formed by Cape Tad-le-achua on the south-east, and the low point of Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk on the north- west ; these two points being about five miles asunder. Both the shores arc composed of red granite ; and there are some islets lying off each of these points, in such a manner as to occupy a large portion of the entrance. In proceeding upwards into it, the shores gra- dually approximate; and, at the distance of about four miles from the entrance, where they take a remarkably tortuous course, the breadth of the inlet was only a hundred and twenty feet; (hat place ' 1 TO TUL ARC, ML RtGlO?IS. a 29 il with act as my nty-(irsl of and snow; coiufort or now drift, le in these ■est, alon{j Hi : {jetting lets which four in the e that this 1 from the I my poinl- 1 liave tohl i{j that he whic!« had I evenin[j. veather as proceeded esl-south- )portunity ua on the he north- Both tlie lets lying e portion lores gra- il es from urse, the hat place i forming its narrowest portion. Narrow too as this channel is, il is still farther contractetl by some rocks within it, w Inch rise above IJie water, on which, at this time, much heavy ice was grounded. I'rom all these particulars, I doubled whether even a boat could be carried into th<; upper part of this arm of the sea ; as it certainly would not afford a passage to any shi[). But being now desirous to make a more accurate examination than I could do while we were in motion, I selected a spot lor a hilt ; and declaring my intention to halt, set Noak-wush-yuk to work to build us the usual snow house : departing alone on this |MirsiMt. That I might proceed the more lightly, 1 left my gun behind, which I had soon occasion to regret; as, within an hour's time, 1 j)er- ccivcd two animals trotting behind me. It being dusk, 1 mistook tlu'in for wolves, and though these were not the most agreeable conipanions for i\n unarmed man, I was Infinitely more mortified at the want of my gun, on finding them to be two fine deer, which jjassed w itliin ten yards of me. They were the first which had been seen this season. I here saw, that above the narrow strait just mentioned, the inlet expanded again to a breadth varying from one quarter to three (pKirtcrs of a mile; and after about three hours of (juick walking, I arrived at its farther extremity, and landed on the small islet w here we had found Tulloack's canoe buried. I had thus completed the examination of the only inlet to the south through which we could have hoped to find a passage to the w estern sea. This inlet, Shag-a-voke, derives its name from the rapidity with which, in the summer time, the stream rushes out through the con- tracted and narrow channel which it must pass in its way to the sea; and 1 formerly remarked, that the name is expressive of this fact: since the literal interpretation of that is— ''it runs fast.'" — Respecting the cause of this current there can be no difficulty ; since the mass of water by which it is produced is evidently derived from the melting of the snow on the upper lands ; the whole of which finds its way in numerous torrents.^ as we had afterwards occasion to see, through the valleys which tend down to the head and the sides of this inlet. Hence the great rush of water in the early part, at least, of the summer ; that being also the time in which this place is chielly frequented by the natives, as it is the season of the fishery, when the salmon are labouring to work their way upwards from the sea. .D 'i t r*» i ■i\ ,ij.' «i 230 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I 1^ •r journey than I had inten(h'd, but which i couM not prevail on myself to shorten when I found myself led on gradually from point to point, lest I should leave this Jnves(i|;alion ineon)p'"tc must eonfess that I was ex- tremely fatigued ; as I had Iravell ' ^^tv niilcs duriuf; this day, and had reason, on this account, to . ..mti the stupidity of the fiiiuUi in not having]; huilt a laq^er hut. We had (< < at diilienlty in forciii|][ ourselves into it, hy all our ingerniity and perseverance ; and when there, it would not h(dd the three whicli formed our party, in any luita posture hetween sitting; and lying; but it was, for that reason, the warmer, and we contrived to get some of the sleep which fatigue brings, in return for its grievances. ( ^pril i2i2) It was not, however, that sleep which the restless envy, and which all would gladly prolong. We were much more glad to rise than we had been to lie down ; if such a term can be applied to a posture as like to that in the parish stocks as aught else, or the word bed lo a '• form"' which even a hare could not have oc- cupied, and which woidd have required all the flexibility of a fox or a rabbit. Luckily it was a very fine morning; and after having shook ourselves, like the bears, I proceeded to finish my observations, which being completed, we set out for the ship. As we proceeded down the inlet, the dogs got a sight of three deer which were passing over to the opposite shore ; and before we could stop them, or were well aware of the matter, they set off in full chase, with the sledge at their heels. At every bound which (his carriage made over the rough ice, some part of our baggage flew out, to the great amusement of our guide, who shouted with joy at the "fun. " The whole was soon out of sight; and we had nothing to do but to follow, and to pick up our instruments an\UTLUE OI COMMV^DEU ROSS O^ A THIRD EXl'EDITlON — TllUEAT- EM\(i OF A KLPTL'RE AVITII THE > VTIVES - COMM \M)EU KOSS's UETUR?(. (I80O) II liiul now, lliereforc, been romplelely aseerlaiiu'd Hial there wa8nu]»assagc into the western sea to the south of the 70lh (lejjree ; and it therefore became unnecessary to lay plans for pro- ceetlin{> in this direction witli the ship. The more ininnlv.' exami- nation to the northward, was therefore the object to which utii- attention was next lo be (Urecled. Thus also did we find reason to be thankful that we had made no farther progress; little as we foresaw, at one lime, that we should have come to such a determi- nation as this. Had that been the case, we should have been enlan- }]led still deeper in a bay encumbered with peculiarly heavy ice, and, after all, been obliged to retrace our steps to the northward ; while under infinitely greater dilficulties in extricating ourselves, and perhaps not to have rescued oin* ship from the ice during the whole summer. It was not an unimportant part of Ihe report of this journey, lo find that reindeer had been seen only twelve miles to the south of our place, with innumerable tracks of the same animal, attended by the traces of their enemies, the wolves. (Jpril 23) lieing St. George's day, the usual ceremony of a royal salute and the display of flags was adopted. There was no one, indeed, to witness this customary loyally; but it was right to maintain the etiquette of the service. The belter part of the day, after this, was occupied in culling out the rudder, which luui received some damage from the ice ; but there was still a holiday left for the crew. Some of the natives arrived ; and the guitle boy passed on his way home. {April Si,\) The morning began fine, but ended with snow from the northward. 3Iaking an excursion to the lop of the neighbour- ing hill, two of the natives joined me. and pointed out the position 3 I3i ' J* TO THE ARCTIC HEGIONS. •^:)i of Shag-a-vokc, when I also ascertained those of many more phices that were named, and learned the native names of some of those which we had seen, as well as ofonr own place and the immediate neighbonrhood. \\c afterwards pnrchased what they had, and sent them home fortified with a dinner. The ice in the tanks was this day reduced to a bushel and a half for the week; so much less was the evaporation within, under the recent temperature. {.ipril ^-5) It was cold in the wind, though the thermometer was at i2'' plus ; and there were some showers of snow, with an overcast sky. We received a visit from the ])eople in the northern village, who were about to remove to Neitchillee. Nothing else interfered \\ilh our usual duties and repose on Sunday. (Ajrril 20) On 3Ionday, the natives arrived from their three stations. There were some skins to sell, and there was also a j)resent of boots for Commander Ross, from the mother of his guide. as a testimony of gratitude. It was settled after tl.is. that they aiiould furnish another guide next day. to an expedition intended to the northward for the purpose of examining th(; reported i)assag«.' in thatdiieclion ; but as it afterwards was discovered that some of them were to go there on their own pursuits, the arrangements were made accordingly. {Jpril 27) Commander Koss and one of the mates departed to explore the inlet to the northward. At the village all was confu- sion, in consecpience of the death of a chihl tiial had been killed by a stone falling on it. The father and five brothers came out, in an apparently frantic state, with their knives in their hands ; and as it was doubtful what this meant, our own party prepared then- guns, on which the father was forced back into the hul, and }»eace was restored. It was then settled that the man and boy, who had i'een previously engaged, should accomjtany tlic party in the morn- ing, being confident that they should see musk oxen. On board we had abundant work, in caulking the ship as far as the men could contrive to reach : and this, with other preparations for our future journey, occupied the following day also ( Api^il 2ve received no visits. In summing up this last month, 1 may remark that the first half was much warmer than was to have been expected at this season ; but the end was so cold, that the average for the whole was zero. The most important of events in it were the two journeys : and the sum of the information procured by them appeared to be the fol- lowing : We were sure that we were on the continent of America. The western sea had been seen ; but we found also, that if there was any passage to it, that must be within a degree to the northward of our position, at the bottom of Prince Regent's inlet, and in Cresswell bay, where, after sailing up six miles, no land could be seen in any direction. As the limits to our necessary researches were, thus, much contracted, our obvious business was to examine minutely the several inlets to the northward ; while, should we find no passage, we should return to Prince Regent's inlet, and examine the only remaining opening on the south side of Leopold's islands. This had been done, as far as it could by land, in the first journey; but the result, thus far, was not satisfactory. It was for a future day to know the success of the expedition on which Commander Ross had just proceeded. Much needful work had been done in the ship, and the men were in good health : they had even escaped the usual inflammation oi the eyes from snow ; excepting the mate, who had suffered from it in his first journey. The ice had been found seven feet and a half thick ; and we did not expect that it would increase any more. Many good observations had been made, and the experiments on sound continued ; but the results of these were so irn'gular, that we knew not yet what conclusions to draw. (Mo}/ 1 ) This was notthe May-day of the poets, but it was mild, at least, till the evening, when there was a strong north-easterly breeze. There were no visits from natives : an1MA>DEH KOSS. ( 1830) As the season was now rapidly advancing, I became very desirous, if it was possible, to visit that place to the northwanl mi .'^ /Jt*. 23H SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ii.i^ i * 3P 1*1 f! J '»W, ,(.,,- B .rt * which Ihc natives called Aw-wiik-loo-te-ak, as a proparalion forlhc journey which we had pn»jecled to the Western Ocean. The Esqui- maux had now also broken up into different parties ; and we were therefore afraid that they would all (piit our neighbourhood before we had ascertained the position of that place. It was, to us, a very unportant one, if their information was correct : since they said, that, beyond that j)oint, the coast turned and extended to the north- west, and that this was the only route by which we could gel round to the sea of iNei-tyel-le. Correct al this information might be, for aught that we could suppose to the contrary, having no grounds fo form any conclusion, we thought it a remarkable circumstance, as it was one which diminished our confidence in the reporters, that although many of these peojde had been at Aw-wuk-too-te-ak, and some of them three or four days' journey beyond it, none had ever gone to Nei-tyel-le by the route which they indicated to us. 7VII their information was derived from report ; and when they spoke of a communication between the eastern and western seas, cxislinp, al a certain point, we began to suspect that this was at so great ;i distance as probably to imply the passage at Barrow straits. But under any doubts, whether Avv-vvuk-too-le-ak was situated al no greater distance than we were told, or whei'ever it might l>rove to be, it was most nek.dful that vvc should see it. The coun- try was quite unknown to us ; every thing around was equally obscure or doubtful ; however generally accurate the geographical descriptions of these people had proved, they could ne>er be tho- roughly '. ..sled ; the land mightbe intersected at any part, by narrow straits, or we might be on an island : while, under any view, it was our business to search this country as we would seek for the nioulh of a river ; since for this purpose we had come, and since we could never foresee where the long sought honour might not be lynig in wait to reward our exei (ions. A large party of the Es({uimaux had come to 'he shq) while thca. rellections were passing through our minds; anc' taking advantage of this incident, one of them was engaged to conduct me to the place in question, and llie arrangements made for our departure on the following morning. 1 was to be accompanied by the male Abernethy ; and the surgeon was lo attend me to the huts, where the guide was lo meet us, that he might bring word back to Caj)- lain Boss cf the nature of our final arrangements for the journey i; '-dm TO THE ARCTIC REGIO>S. 237 lion forlhc The Esqui- ul we were lood l)ef«)r(' ) us, a very ; they sulci . J the norlh- 1 gel rouiiil ighl be, for grotintls to instance, as orlers, thai )-le-ak, and ne had ever to us. All I they spoke as, existing t so great ii [•aits. was situated ver it miglil Tiie coun- was equally eographical er be tho- , by narrow view, it was the moulli e we could be lying in while thca. f advantage t me to the eparture on y the male luls, whpro ack to Cap- the journey % '4 itself, and of the probable time of our absence; so that, if needful, he might take measures for supplying us with provisions. { April 27 ) We departed accordingly, early in the morning of the 27lh of April, and approaching the huts, were exceedingly disap- pointed at not hearing the cheerful shouts wilh which we had been usually greeted. That was succeeded by a very disagreeable sur- prise, on finding that the women and children had been all sent out of Ihe way, since wc knew this to be a signal of war ; a fact of which we were speedily convinced by seeing that all the men were armed with their knives. The fierce and sullen looks of these people also boded mischief ; but what the cause of all tiiis could be. it was quite impossible to conjecture. We could sec them better dian they could distinguish us, as the sun was in their faces ; it was the noise of our dogs which gave lliem notice of our arrival and proximity ; and as soon as this was heard, one of them rushed out of a hut, brandishing the large knife used in attacking bears, while the tears were streaming down his aged and furrowed face, \\hich was turning wildly round in search ol the objects of his animosity. In an instant he lifted his arm to llirow his wea[>on at myself and the surgeon, who were then within a few yards of him, having advanced in order to ascertain the cause of all this commotion. But the sun, dazzling him, caused him to suspend his arm for an instant ; when one of his sons laid hold of his uplifted hand, and gave us a moment's lime for reflection. The result of that was, of course, an immediate preparation for defence ; though we could have done little against such odds as our unexpected enemies displayed. We therefore retired to the sledge, nlicrel had left my gun; and not daring again to quit it. as Mr. ;\ii( rnethy hai! no arms, waited for the result, while losing our- selves in vain conjei-ture!? lespecting the cause of offence,^ seeing that we had parted good friends on the preceding day. The ferocious old man I'ow-weet-yah was still held fast, and, now, by both his sor.b, who had pinioned his arms behind him ; lliough he strove hard to disengage himself; while the rest of Ihe parly seemed to be standing in readiness to second any attempt which he m ght .uake on us. That there was some difference of opinion among them, however, and that all were not equally hos- Ide. was {'lain from the conduct of these young men ; so that wq could still hope for some parley before matters came to extremity. 238 SECO>'D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ^■?* •^ 'U* Ail 'I'hey now befjan to lalk amonji Ihemsclvcs. an«l then separated in such a manner as to lie ready to surround us. which having nearly effected, and we not choosing to be so cut off from the ship, I warn- ed those who were closing in on the rear, to desist. This produced a short pause, and a still shorter conference ; but they immediately again began to dose in, brandishing their knives in defiance, ac- cording to their usual custom, and had nearly gained their object, wiien finding lliat farther forbearance wouhl be hazardous, I placed the gun to my shouhler, and was about to fire, when I fortunately saw that the threat alone was sufticient to give them a check. AVith little loss of time, those who bad advanced nearest broke off. in evident alarm, and retreated tov ards their huts ; thus leaving us an open passage in the rear. r>ut as I could not induce any of them to approach, or to answer my rpiestions, we continued for nearly half an hour in this state of suspense and perplexity, w hen u e were relieved by the courage or confidence of one of the wojiien, who came out of a hut just as 1 was again raising my gun. and calbd to me not to fire, advancing up to our party immediateiy, w ithoui showing the least mark of fear. From her, we soon learned the cause of all this hubbub, which, absurd as it was, might have had a fatal termination, as we should probably h?.7e been the chief sufferers. One of Pow-weet-yah's adopted sons, a fine boy of seven or eight years of age, whom we knew, had been killed on the preceding night, by the falling of a stone on his head. This they had ascribed to our agency, through the supernatural powers which we were believed to possess; while the father, not very unnaturally under this conviction, had meditated revenge in the manner which we had experienced. I had much difficulty in persuading the good woman that we were totally ignorant of this catastroi)he, and that we were very sorry for the misfortune ; she however repeated all that I had said to two of the men who had not taken any share in the business of the attack, and who now approached us unarmed, in token of peace. Their object was to persuade us to go back to the ship, and Vj relU'T, in three days, when they offered to be our guides to the donired place, ''vt many reasons opposed this scheme ; of which the i!hief was, that as this was the first misunderstanding that had occurred between us, it was essential to come to an understanding, and lu renew our friendships, without any delay, lest the oppor- ^ '% TO THE ARCTIC RE(iIO>S. 230 pparated in ving nearly lip, I warn- is produoed iiiniediately efiance, ac- heir object, lis, I placed fortunately m a check, it broke ofF. IS leaving us ir to answer this state of e courage or hut just as I dvancing up lark of fear, bub, which. ps we should ■weet-yali's whom we falling oi" a icy, lhroii{',h ssess ; while ul meditated lan that we e were very it I had said business of in token of lie ship, and uides to the ; of which ing that had llerstandinp,. the oppor- -'i lunlty should not again occur ; as they niij'.ht go away in the mean time, whether from fi'ar of our returning in greater numbers, or for any other reason, and thus, not only cause a lasting estrange- ment as to themselves, but a general hostility or desertion on the jiart of all the natives within their connexions or reach ; tlins ren- dering the whole land our enemies. I therefore objected to this proposal, and declared that I would not go back till we were all once more good friends : when perceiving that the hostile parly was gradually api)roaching our groupe, though, probably, but to hoar the conversation that was passing, H drew a line on the snow, and declared that none of them should cross it without putting ;nvay their knives, which they still continued to grasp in their right hands, with their arms folded across th(! breast. After some conversation among themselves their grim visages began to relax, llie knives were put up ; and, becoming at last apparently con- vinced that we had no concern in the death of this boy, they seemed now very anxious to remove the unfavourable impression which llieir conduct, as they must needs conclude, had made on us. But they still urged us to return to the shi|). because, as they said, it was impossible for them to make use of their dogs till three days had passed away after the death of any one belonging to a family. Though in all probability this was really a funereal usage, or a settled period of mourning, I was unwilling to yield this point, couhl I possibly carry it; as the loss of even three days at this season was an important consideration. I therefore produced a large file, offering it to any one of the parly who would go with me, and assuring them at the same time, llial if they all refused I should go alone, and they would thus lose the reward. On this, a consultation of some minutes took i»lace, in wiiich I heard the word " Erk-she" (angry) frequently used, ac- companied by my name : which being ended, the man called Poo-vet-tah seemed to vield to his wife's entreaties, and offered to accompany me, i>rovided I would allow .Il-lik-tah, a fine lad of sixteen or seventeen, to be associated with him. This, 1 of course agreed to, as two companions would be more useful than one; and they accordingly went off to the huts to pre- pare for the journey. That il"' peace was now considered as per- fectly re-established, there could no longer be any doubt ; since they crowded round us. soon resuming their usual friendly and .m* I ^'11 hi !' ^ ;i4i) SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ronfidpnli.'il litlinvioiir, and piillinf; on llinl rliccifiilncss of coiiii- Icnnnrr ^hidi was llicir Iiahihial cxprrssion. If I liavc dwell on this advmlniT at some lenf^lh, it is l)ccaiis(' Ihis was the only occasion on which Ihcy ever showed any hostile feelinfjs towards ns. during all llic years which we passed in their neip,hlKinrho(((l. I nnisl not, however, take to myself all the merit of haviiiu hroupjlit our little party ont of this adventure in safety : the coolness and self-possession of my two companions were mainly conducive to a termination of that, in which the least act of teme- rity or incaulion might have cost the whole of us our lives. It was at ten o'clock thai we commenced our journey towards the north-west corner of the bav, and we were followed l»v the acclamations of our friends as long as we were within hearing. Mr. MDiarmid went back, as was agreed, to inform (laptain Ross of w hat had happened, and to say thai we expected to be absent four or five days, as far as I could judge from the calculation of the guide; so that our party consisted now but of four, including the two Esquimaux. The baggage and provisions were placed on two sledges, each tirawn by six dogs; and, by their aid, we travelled very (piickly over Ihe smooth ice of the bay. After having thus made ten or twelve miles, the guide Poo-yel-tah stopped his sledge, and saitl that he was going to a seal hole that he knew of, at some distance on our left hand. As I could not help suspecting thai he might leave us and return lo the huts, I proposed to accompany him ; to which he consented without any hesitation. After w(! had walked some time, he, being in advance, turned round, and, striking me on the breast, said that I was " good;"' when remarking also for the first time, that I had left my gun behind, he placed his spear in my hand, saying thai I should be armed as well as he, and drew from his dress, where it liad been concealed, his long knife, for his own arm. On arriving at the seal hole, he lay down, and putting his nose to the slight coating of snow by which it was covered, said that the animal had deserted il for some days. As there was thus nothing to be gained, we returned to the sledges and ccntinued our journey; each, by turns, undertaking lo leatl on foot, and then, in rotation, taking his seat in the vehicle. At two in the afternoon we entered an inlet which the guide TO Tin; ARCTIC REC.IONS. 841 railed Aii-ne-reak-to. rimnirif; in .1 n<»rlh-ii(>rth-we»t (iinrlioii. •inti Ixiii); nhout a mih- witle al the ♦'iilrann'. The caslern rapr of the openini^ was naiiipd l»y hiiu Ne-ak-koff-e-nek ; an apprllalion (|( rived from a joek projeclinf; Ihroujjh Ihe sliiiiijle, >vhirh bore a fancied resend)lanee to a human head. The western point, termed Neck-ler-rid-yeoo. forms the termination of Ac-eood-le-ruk-tnk ; a name which they seem to apply to all pieces of land, or penin- sulas, which are nearly surr«>unded !» water, be that fresh or sail. \>'e continued, hence, to journey idonji; the western shore of this inlet, till we entered the mouth of a river, about a mile and a half from its entrance, turniuf; off to the west-north-west, and leaving; to our rljjht the termination of \n-ne-reak-(o. This part of the river is called Ac-eood-Ie-it-pannf-ut, and thou|;h covered with freshwater ice. bore evi«lent marks of a rise and fall of the tide on its shores. At three o'cb)ck we arrived at a point where the stream was contracted, so as to produce a rapid, or fall, of about twenty yards in lent];th ; but hence our journey became exceedingly labo- rious, as the whole valley was so filled with loose snow that we could no longer piirsue Ihe windinjys of the river as we had hitherto done. Thus far. the rip,ht bank of the stream consisted of loose blocks of limestone, Ihrouph which masses of fjneiss could be seen projecting in different [daces, while Ihe left side ascended from the water in a {jenlle slope, so as to attain an elevation of a hundred feet r.\ the distance of a mile. At six we came to a small lake, which is the source of this riur, surrounded by high, rugged, or precii)itous shores, the ravines of which were filled with closely-packed drift snow, by which the summits of the hills in the distance were also covered. From this place we then turned more to the northward, crossing a high ridge for the purpose of reaching another lake, and undergoing great labour during an ascent of an hour and a half, from the steepness of Ihe ground and Ihe depth of the snow. It was not till ten at night that we arrived al our halting place, and finished this daj's journey; men, and dogs loo. all ecpially tired with a laborious struggle against a high wind and driving snow, during a space of thirty miles which we computed thai we had travelled. The two Esquimaux soon erected an excellent snow hut, and, after our supper of frozen meat, we betook ourselves lo rest ; being all so fatigued that we could nol converse, even on Ihe events of m r") ril^' > SI Jt(t' m *» "t ^ SECOND VOYAGE OF HISCOVERY (im^"^ ¥ ■ t, ■ « ml: iIk* mornitif^, on which I shoiiM othcrwiso linvo rnlercd, for the purpose of iindorstandinf; Ij^tfj^r fhe iinlnro of Ihcir fiinciT.il usages. ;js well as that I mif^ht convinre ryself of the entire removal of all their fancies respecting onr supernatural and mischievous agency. The nif.hl was extremely tempestuoi's ; and, in the morning i.lpril 28), it blew very hard from the north, with a heavy driving snow, so that we could not cpiit our hut till nine. From this cause we made very little way till towards noon, when the wind modera- ted a good deal, after which the day became beautiful. The latitude, by a meridional observation, v is 70" "I'V 10", and at this time, being noon, we passed a great nundier of Ks(piimau\ marks placed on an islet in a large lake. This, as our guides informed us, was a fisliing st.-iion nuich frecpiented in the summer and autumn ; the lake abounding with salmon during these seasons, which was the tinn; during which they ascended from the sea, through a river Avhich finds its exit from the north-eastern corner of this piece of water. The station itself was called Nap-pur-re-uk-ta-lig. This place is entirely surt'ounded by granite hills, and the islets consist of the same rock. The lake itself is of a very irregular shape, and of considerable extent from the north-east to the south-west. Leaving this spot, we crossed this piece of water in a north- w<'Sterly direction, but found the travelling very laborious, from the great depth of the snow, which was also loose, and occupied the course of the river and lake : being unfortunately the direction most convenient for us. This, like all similar j)laces in this country, they called It-tib-lin-ne-ak. Though the road was as bad as could well be, lhrou;',houl the whole of this hollow, or watercourse, there was one place which far outdid all the rest. This was a frozen rapid in (he river, where, in addition to the irregularity and rough- ness of the ice, which also projected in slippery masses through the loose snow, the declivity was so considerable that the sledges ran down it with fearful rapidity, getting before the dogs, which they dragged along, and endangering the vehicles themselves, with all w hich they carried. We found a safer, though a more rugged path for ourselves, and halted at five o'clock to make the necessary observations for the longitude. It was not very wonderful that the sight of the instru- ments revived in the mind of the guide the belief in our powers of conjuration. And as the idea of eating is ever predominant in iIr- I, for Ihr •al iisa(;«'s. loval of all a|T;cncy. I) morning ivy driviiiR I this cause 1(1 modera- lio latitude, this lime, irks placed d us, was a itumn ; the ich was the {rh a river his piece of i-liK. This slets consist • sliape, and west. , in a north- rious, from occupied le direction is country, tad as could ourse, there as a frozen and rough- hrough the sledges ran which Ihey 8, with all selves, and [)ns for the f the instru- r powers of inant in the mi TO THE ARCTIC nEGIONS. y4:] mind of an Ksquiniaux. while hunting and fishing are almost the only occMpalion of their lives, his impiirics took this very natural turn. Should we Hud any nuisk oxen liy means of (his inexpli- eable hrasswork, or see Iheni among the hills, while looking so intensely through these lubes and glasses? In fact, we were in Ihe parls fre(punteM i'^\ %«•■ ^■0'^ ill' ... IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ 1^ I4£ 2.5 2.2 1.8 1.25 1.4 III 1.6 ^ 6" ► ^ ^ /} HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ 't :! I'/AM 'I' 244 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY MJ '' I < ' ! ; lest we should lose our expected prey, and assuring me that the dogs would take good care of their own business. We went on, therefore, laboriously enough, for two hours, over a very rugged country and through deep snow; when finding that the footsteps of the dogs no longer followed that of the oxen, he concluded that they had got up with the animals, and were pro- bably holding one or both of them at bay. We soon found this to be the fact, on turning the angle of a hill; when the sight of a fine ox at bay before the three dogs, cured our fatigue in an instant, and we went off ourselves at full speed to the rescue. Poo-yet-tah, however, kept the lead, and was in the act of dis- charging his second arrow when I came up. We saw that it had struck on a rib, since it fell out without even diverting the attention of the animal from the dogs, which continued barking and dodging round it, seizing it by the heels whenever they had an opportu- nity, or when it turned to escape, and then retreating as it face' them. In the mean time, it was trembling with rage, and labour- ing to reach its active assailants, but unable to touch them, expe- rienced as they were in this service. It was easy to see that my companion's weapons were of little value in this warfare, or that the victory would not at least have been gained under many hours ; as he continued to shoot without appa- rent effect, finding his opportunities for an aim with much difficulty, and losi.ig much time, afterwards, in recovering his arrows. I was pleased, therefore, independently of the value of the expected game, to find an opportunity of showing him the superiority of our arms, and I therefore fired at the animal with two balls, at the distance of about fifteen yards. They took effect, and it fell : but rising again, made a sudden dart at us, standing close together as we were. We avoided the attack, by dodging behind a large stone which was luckily near us; on which, rushing with all its force, it struck its head so violently, that it fell to the ground with such a crash that the hard ground around us fairly echoed to the sound. My guide, on this, attempted to stab it with his knife ; but failing in this, he sought shelter behind the dogs, which now again came forward to the attack. At this time it was bleeding so profusely, that the long hair on its sides were matted with blood ; yet its rage and strength seemed undiminished, as it continued to advance and butt with the same ferocity as before. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 245 le that the ours, over nding that c oxen, he were pro- und this to ht of a fine istant, ami act of dis- that it had [le attention nd dodging in opportu- as it face' and labour- them, expe- In the mean lime I had reloaded my gun behind the stone, and was advancing for another shot, when the creature rushed towards me as before, to the great alarm of Poo-yet-tah, who called to me to return to the same shelter. But I had time for a cool aim ; and it immediately fell, on the discharge of both barrels, but not till it was within five yards of me. The sight of his fallen enemy made my companion scream and dance with joy, and on his coming up, it was dead; one ball having passed through the heart, and ;he other having shattered to pieces the shoulder joint. He was lost in astonishment at the effect of the fire-arms ; first carefully examining the holes which the balls had made, and pointing out to me that some of them had passed quite through the animal. But it was the slate of the broken shoulder which most surprised him ; nor would it be easy to forget his look of horror and amazement, when he looked up in my face and exclaimed "• Now-ek-poke! *' ( it is broken.) We had now been eighteen hours without any refreshment, and I naturally, therefore, expected that my friend would have lost no time in extracting a dinner out of the ox. 1 had how- ever done him injustice : his prudence was more powerful than his stomach. He was content with mixing some of the warm blood with snow, thus dissolving as much as he required to quench his thirst, and then immediately proceeded to skin the animal ; knowing very well, what I might have recollected, that the opera- tion would shortly become impossible, in consequence of the seve- rity of the cold, which would soon freeze the whole into an impracticable mass. For the same reason, he divided the carcase into four parts; afterwards disposing of the paunch and intestines in the same manner, their contents being previously separated. 1 did not before know, that they did not eat these as well as the analogous matters of the reindeer ; and could only conjecture, that at this season of the year, the plants on which the musk ox feeds were disagreeable to their taste. In the reindeer, the matters found in their stomachs are considered a great delicacy ; and however our own might revolt at a vegetable dish cooked in this manner, this forms a very useful and salutary ingredient among their gross animal diet, since it is scarcely possible for them to collect any eatable vegetables by their own exertions. As we were unable to carry off our prize, we were obliged to ">.■)■ \ m ii-iQ SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ! \m < 9 >«< m\ %"!■! build a snow hut overit, after which, setting up marks to enable us to find it again, we set out on our return to the place where we had left our companions. In the way, we discovered another ox about a quarter of a mile off, under the face of a precipice, but were fiir too fatigued to think of pursuing it. The guide, however, assured me that this was of no consequence, since it would remain there for some time, and we might easily go after it in the morning. We reached the hut that had been built, at five in the morning of the twenty-ninth of April, hungry and fatigued enough to find a very serious enjoyment in a hot supper and rest. We had brought away some of the beef and found it exceedingly good, not having, at this season of the year, the least flavour of musk. In August, at Melville island, on a former occasion, this taste was very offensive : and it is only consonant to other experience in many animals, to suppose that this effect lakes place in the rutting season. My obser- vations here, made the latitude 70° 35' 49", and the longitude 0° 38' 33" west of the ship. We had not been asleep more than four or five hours, when we were awoke by the shouts of Poo-yet-tah and the barking of the dogs in full cry. On inquiring of the boy, he informed me that our guide and huntsman had crept out of the hut silently, about an hour before, and was gone in pursuit of the ox which we had seen on the preceding day. In a short time he returned, and told us that he had found the animal grazing on the top of the hill, that he had advanced upon it by the only accessible road, keeping him- self in the middle of his dogs, and that he had done this with so much rapidity, that the creature, finding no other mode of escape, had thrown itself over the precipice. On going to the spot, we accordingly found the carcase in the place which he had mentioned, exceedingly mangled by the fall, which had exceeded thirty feet, while the place which it had struck was an irregular block of granite. As far as use was concerned, it was however no worse than if it had been uninjured ; and the same operations were therefore repeated : the whole day being after- wards occupied in this work, and in bringing the meat to our hut. This, hovvever, left me leisure for my observations ; and the morning proving fine, I was successful in making them. Among other things, I thus ascertained that our present place was about forty miles from the ship, in a direction north 19" west. In the TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 247 lo enable us here we had ler ox about [)Ut were f.sr ver, assured ain there for fig. J morning of gh to find a had brought lot having, at [n August, at ry offensive : ! animals, to 1. My obser- he longitude Lirs, when we arking of the •med me that ilently, about svhich we had ned, and told the hill, that keeping him- ; th^s with so >de of escape, ;arcase in the by the fall, it had struck concerned, it 1 and the same being after- it to our hut. )ns ; and the lem. Among lice was about ;rest. In thfi afternoon, there arose a strong breeze with drifting snow ; so that we were glad to have recourse to the shelter of our hut, and thus also made our dinner at a much earlier hour than usual : getting into our fur bags shortly after, that we might ensure a good night's rest. (Jpn'lZO) It blew so hard a gale from the north during tiie whole day, that we were unable to leave the hut ; which gave us an opportunity of some conversation with our guides and compan- ions, and which I made use of in endeavouring to extract from tlicm a fuller history of the event which had led to our dissensions, and of their feelings and proceedings in consequence. Poo-yet-tah himself was equally anxious to explain : so that it was scarcely necessary for me to name the subject. Having com- menced, he proceeded in his tale with so much rapidity and vehe- mence, that it at first seemed lo me as if he had re-excited his an- ger on this subject, and that we were now likely to renew a quarrel which had been suspended, not settled. 1 soon found, however, that all this energy was the result of his anxiety to convince me that his friends were not in reality to blame, that they had acted under what they believed a conviction of our treachery, or wicked interference, and that we ought now to be perfectly reconciled, since we had exculpated ourselves to their satisfaction. The peaci- maker was even the more praiseworthy, that I mistook the energy of his eloquence on the amiable side, for a renewal of hostilities and a declaration of war. In spite, too, of their numbers on that occasion, and of their evident intention to attack, they were impressed with a strong feel- ing of our superiority; an impression which we were, all, natu- rally, most desirous of cultivating ; sirtce it was not less a ground of respect, as it must ever be among rude nations, than a tower of defence to us under the numerical dilference between ourselves and this collected nation. Under this conviction, he thanked me fre- (pienlly for not killing his father, or breaking his shoulder as I had done that of the musk ox; while he still seemed to fear, that when I returned to the ship 1 should do him some harm. I endeavoured, of course, lo convince him that nothing of this kind could ever happen, that we were all attached to his people, and desired no- thing so much as to continue friends; and with these assurances he seemed satisfied. -?<. I W- tp PI !)|kH i»«;'ii-i W«. Ill 248 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m* ?Hf!> If Ihc remainder of our conversation was not highly interesting, it will at least serve to convey some ideas respecting the usages of these people. I was at first surprised to hear my guide Poo-yet-tah call I'ow-weet-yah his father; since, to ray eye, there were not many years of difference in age. On asking the reason, I was informed that he was only the step*-father, and that he was even the second in this relation which Poo-yet-tah had possessed ; while both of them were such during the lifetime of his own father, who had laken another wife and left his own to the first of these two. It was, however, an amicable separation. The man had desired to migrate to the westward, and the wife, on the contrary, preferred staying among her own relations ; they therefore separated, a short lime after his birth, and the woman then married a man called Arg-loo-gah, by whom she had four more sons. This husband was drowned ; leaving his widow a large fortune in the shape of these five sons, who are here considered a valuable estate, since the main- tenance of the parents in old age devolves on them. Thus she easily procured another husband, Pow-weet-yah, the brother of her first one; but by this marriage there were no children. To replace this want, they adopted two grandsons as such ; and the boy who had been killed was the eldest of those. The original husband, Ka-na-yoke's true father, had also procured a son by adoption, among the tribe at Oo-geoo-lik, to which he had gone, and he was now living in a small island, called 0-wut-ta, three days' journey to the westward of Nei-tyel-le. The terms husband and wife are words of usage : the ideas arc simple, and excite no doubts ; the language is smooth, and belongs to good breeding and good morals : and the term marriage is one which equally excites neither reflection nor commentary. It has been the custom, too, however it began, to praise the temper, con- duct, and morals of these tribes; but some readers may perhaps question the conjugal system and usages of this people, should they take the trouble to think on the subject ; as they may also perhaps suggest that concubinage, and not of a remarkably strict nature, is a more fitting term than marriage, for the species of contract under which the parties in question are united. They might even be the more inclined to think so, had they heard the farther anecdotes which Poo-yet-tah related to me on this subject ; of which it must, however) suffice to notice one, as a sort of i v.S ^" ■ ^. m TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 340 general result. Among the Esquimaux of Igloolik whom we had formerly visited, it was not uncommon for a man to have two wives; a practice that excites no surprise, wide spreaJ as polygamy is, and has been from all time. But my friend here informed me that he and his half brother had but one wife between them, as, if I rightly also understood, this was held a justifiable system, and, if not very common, merely such because of a general numerical equality between the sexes. Of this custom we had found no instance at Igloolik : and I know not that it is related by travellers of any but crrtain tribes in India. Others must consider for themselves, of the propriety or delicacy of such a connexion as that of two brothers with a single wife, since I do not set up for the moral commentator on a people, respecting whom every one is now nearly as well informed as myself; so much has been written respecting them by us, the recent northern navigators, and by many more, foreigners as well as English. As it was my intention to make an excursion in the direction of Oo-geoo-lik after returning from my present journey, I procured from my informant a list of the names of all those whom I was likely to meet, and was charged at the same time with several messages to them. These I wrote down, as the best letters of introduction that I could have received : and, if aught could now have been wanting, the entire confidence between us was thus perfectly established. Thus this dreary day was shortened ; and a truly dreary one it was. The wind without, howled round our walls of snow, and the drift which it brought sounded against them with a hissing noise, which I was glad to forget in the talk that rendered it for a time inaudible. If our house was but four feet high, so that it kept us constantly in a sitting posture, it was nevertheless warm, and, by contrast, comfortable ; a far better one has not often been so acceptable, and has rarely indeed afforded such a sense of thankfid security and enjoyment. The talk of our friends did not, however, prevent them from using their jaws in a very different manner. During the whole day they were employed in removing the meat from the upper half of the ox ; cutting it off in long narrow slips, which, in the usual manner, they crammed into their mouths as far as they could push it in ; then cutting the morsel from the end of their noses by the 13.. 'm ■f] iw*^. ;'!!*■■: I 25ft SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY means of Iheirsliarp knives, they bolted the moulhfuls as a hnnj>iy dog would have done. Thus passing the sUce from one to the other, alternately, they contrived at length to swallow all the meat from the neck, backbone, and ribs, of one side of the ox : suspend- ing their motions, however, every now and then, to complain tiiat they could eat no more, and lying back on their beds, but still retaining their knives in one hand, with the unfinished morsel in the other, and again beginning with as much energy as before, as soon as they felt it possible to get down another lump. Disgusting brutes! the very hyaena would have filled its belly and gone to sleep : nothing but absolute incapacity to push their food beyond the top of the throat, could check the gormandizing of these specimens of reason and humanity. By the time that they seemed really incapable of devouring any more, our own soup was ready, and I therefore oflFered them to partake. Out of politeness, Poo -yet -tab took two or three spoonfuls, and then confessed that he could swallow no more. Placing my hand on his stomach, I was perfectly astonished at the distension which it had undergone, and which, without such an examination, I could not have believed it possible for any human creature to bear; as, had 1 not known their habits, I should have expected that nothing but death could be the consequence. This enormous stuffing caused our guides to pass but a restless night ; if they had possessed a term for the nightmare, we should probably have heard of it in the morning. In the mean lime the gale moderated ; so that, when we rose at five o'clock on the next day {May 1), the weather was such as to allow of our proceeding ; though still hazy and somewhat threatening, as the breeze was from the northward, and was accompanied by some drift. Our sledge was soon loaded, but the guides had not so soon recovered from the effects of their dinner, so that it was past seven o'clock before we could get them to move. But when ready, Poo-yet-lah said, on my expressing my unwillingness to lose another day, that as we should be obliged to travel over high hills, where the sledges could not go, we must leave all our baggage at the hut, and that we might then proceed to Aw-wuk-too-leak and return to sleep. We accordingly set out at half-past seven, taking with us our arms and three of the dogs, in case of our falling in with any more V)i m3 10 TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. ;j5i ol' the musk oxen, and leaving Mr. AlxTnelhy and llu; l>oy iii charge of Ihe baggage. Travelling over a very rugged eountry covered wilhdeep snow, (hiring two hours, we at length descend- ed on the lake which they call Aw-wnk-loo-teak anti which will be found in the chart. This piece of water extends, according to its longest dimensions, from north-east by east to south-west by west, and, in Ihis direction, appeared about four niih'S in length. In shape, it is very irregular, as it is bounded by five distinct hills, separated from each other by an equal number of ravines, which, during the thaw, are water- courses, supplying the lake. Where it empties itself, the issuin;* stream is broad, and appeared to be shallow ; but its source seemed to be a rapid one, and its termination was in the sea (o the northward. The names of these hdls as given by the guide are as follow, distinguishing them by their true bearings, from the centre of the lake : namely, that to the west is called Pood-le-ra-nnk, to the north-west 11-low-nuk, to the north-east Ac-cood-le-ruk-luk, to the west-south-west Tak-ke-noo-ra-lig, and to the south ll-low-na- lig. Poo-yet-tah farther informed me that the lake contained three dilferent kinds of fish, which remain in it throughout the winter, that it was of great depth, and that in the smaller lake to Ihe east- ward, called Ow-weet-te-week, Avhere the party that first saw our ship in the S;^ptembcr of 1829, had been encamped, there was also abundance of fish of a large size. Leaving the water-side, we now ascended the high hill on the north-east side, called Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk ; and, on reaching its summit, which we had surmounted soon after ten o'clock, 1 could see the high rugged ice extending from the norfh-north-west to thf north-east by rast. The hazy state of the weather however limited our view to a cl> stance of four or five miles, so that it was impos- sible to ascertain the depth of an inlet, of which the entrance seemed to be formed by the separation of the spot on which we stood, from a remarkable cape that we had named the Old Man of lloy, when on our way to the southward during the preceding autumn, and which I had no difificulty in recognising. This was the place where I had expected, if any where, to find the way open to the western sea, since it was that which the natives had spoken of to us on several occasions 5 or thus, at least, we ill'llB i «lf'l S«3 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY imagined, as it was not vpry easy to come to a ii{;ht iinderstandinfy on this suhject. The man called Ib-iu-shee had indeed assured us that the opening at this place was nolhin{; hut the mouth oF a large bay, and that we must travel many days to the northward before we could find a passage to llio westward; an assertion which made me suppose, as I have already observed, that he could mean nothing but Barrow's strait. Hut as we had not examined the present inlet, since it was filled with fixed ice when we had passed in the preceding year, I thought it indispensable to take the present opportunity of doing this, that we might at least remove the natu- ral uncertainty which we felt respecting it. When, however, I came to examine the nature of the ice which now lay between us and the inlet in question, as well as the great distance that it would be necessary to travel for that purpose, I found it impossible to undertake such a work at present. Poo- yet-tah indeed became very anxious that we should return, as he saw that the north wind, with its driving snow, was rapidly increa- sing; but, as the haze seemed to be partially clearing away, I pro- posed to him to descend to the beach, as I might hope thus to get a better view. This, however, he absolutely refused :but, as I felt confident that 1 could find my way without him, I went off, and left him to follow his own inclinations. In about an hour and a half I reached the beach in question, which was formed of loose fragments of lime- stone, and found the tide out : while, as far as I could see, the ice consisted entirely of hummocky masses which had been closely packed against the shore at the commencement of the winter. I had not gained much by my attempt to investigate this piece of ground ; for the falling snow, and the thick haze by which it was accompanied, obscured every thing in such a manner that I could never see beyond two miles, if I even saw so far. The weather also became more unpromising, instead of improving ; so that I resolved to give up all farther pursuit of this object, and turned my face to return to the hut where 1 had left my compa- nions. On this, I immediately heard the voice of Poo-yet-tah hallooing from behind a stone, close to me, and was not a little surprised to see him, when I expected that he had been safely lodged in the hut by this time. I found that he had followed me slily, to watch I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2«3 my proceedings ; being desirous to know what coiild be the object of $0 long a journey from the ship as that which 1 had thus un- dertaken, and probably also conceiving that I had here some object of profit in view, in the finding of game or fish, in which he was desirous of partaking. I had great trouble in trying to persuade him that I had no other pursuit than that of seeing this place among others, yet did not finally succeed in convincing him: since, however, possessing that knowledge of geography which is so general among these people, their piirsuits and acquisitions of this nature are all directed to the immediate and important end of procuring food. On farther conversation, he told me that he should be at Ow- weet-te-week in the summer, together with his brothers, for the purpose of hunting or fishing, and that they would bring us sal- mon and venison. Wishing to know the situation of this place, that I might be able to recognise it again from the ship, he agreed, and we set forth together. After two hours' travelling toward the south-east, we crossed the lake of Ow-weet-te-week to a hill on its eastern shore ; and on ascending it, he showed me the spot where his tent had been erected in the preceding summer when we passed by, and where he was to be in the impending one. lie also pointed out to me some stores of food which his companions had abandoned on leaving this place ; and, opening one of his own, produced some pieces of ironstone which he had wrapped up in a i)iece of swan's skin ; reminding me of what I had forgotten, that he had promised me some on our arrival at Ow-week-te-week. He said that one of his brothers had found it, in the preceding summer, on the shores of an islet called Toot-ky-yak, which was a day's journey to the north-west, and that it had been taken from beneath the water, by the washing of which it was probably rendered more obvious to their inexperienced eyes. This substance constitutes their only article of commerce, and they exchange what they have obtained, every three or four years, with the natives of Oo-geoo-lik ; getting drift wood in return, and, in a similar way, purchasing the pot- stone of which their kettles are made, from the inhabitants of Repulse bay. Poo-yet-tah now became anxious to return to the hut; but as we passed the foot of the hill whence I obtained the first view of the sea, I prevailed on him to accompany me to the top. The ■K '^ i I'lHS 254 StCOMJ NOYACIi OK DISCOVERY weather indeed lind hecume even more iinfiivourahle llinn before, hut I roidd not hear to ah.indon a spot which seemed to contain the only chance of a passaije hy wliich onr ship nii(;ht reach that western sea which I had now seen. My lahonr was however h)»t. Tlie snow hei;an to fall thicker, nothing; cotdd be seen, and wo were }jlad to descend a{;ain in all haste, and make our way back to the hut. In our proj^ress thither, wc put up a pack of six {{rouse, and I had the good fortune to bring down one with each barrel. These were the Hrst objects that Poo-yel-tah had seen shot on the wing, and his surprise was even greater than it had been at the killing of the musk ox. Shortly after, they rose again at half a mile's dis- tance, when he urged me to fire once more, as he afterwards wished me to follow them to the spot where they had alighted after this flight. Hut 1 did not choose to risk my reputation, or rather that of the gun, w hich it was imj)orlant to preserve : while we had also now more game than we could use, or transport to the ship. \\ e therelorc pursued our journey, and arrived at the hut at seven in the evening; being just in time to save ourselves from the commencement of one of the most stormy nights we had ever expe- rienced. The wind blew during the whole of it, in the most violent gusts that can be imagined; descending from the hills around with such squalls of driving snow, that they threatened as much to demolish our little structure as to overwhelm and bury us in a hill of ilieir own making. This indeed they nearly did before the gale moderaUd : such was the accumulation of snow that was blown up into deep ridges around and above our hut, which was, however, loo strong and solid to give way to the force of the wind. We were afterwards surprised to find how very confined this storm was, since there was nothing more than a moderate breeze at the ship, though only forty miles distant. (May 2) Having been well recruited by a night's rest, I had hopes of inducing Poo-yel-tah to make another excursion to the sea; but we had first to encounter the task of digging ourselves out of the snow. This occupied four hours, since it had attained a depth of six feet above us; and when we were at last freed, we found it still blowing hard, and the air filled 'h haze, and with snow drift from the surrounding hills. The appearance of the weather was certainly most unfavourable to this or any other travelling; and the TO I HE \R<:ric: rkgio.xs. Sfi.'i );iii(l('H were very dcMiroiis (o rciiuiiii nl peacM; in (he iitit. To this I should hiivc nipccd, if 1 could have proviiilod uu tlioin lo h.ive i;ouc oiux* more with mo lo Aw-wuk-ttjo-tt-jik ; luit this was absolulely refused, 8u thai I was couip.Jled to al>aiuh>u thin projcel for the present. I now reHecleil on the uiicerlainly of the weallier at Ihis season of the year, aud heiu[j also aware that our absence IVoiu (lie ship had been prolonged beyond the time which had been anticipated, I became fearful h'st considerable anxiety should be fell by (laptain Ross on our account, and the more so from the circuinslanees of doubtful friendship with the natives under which we had deparlcd. It was possible, also, that some inconvenience mi|;ht occur incon- seipience of otu' absence; more especially, should that induce Cap- tain Iloss lo send oul an expedition in search of us. Coupling]; these reflections, therefore, vvilh the fact that it would reipiirc several days to examine the desired inlet in a salisfaelory manner, and that these probable inconveniences would be mate- rially increased in conse«pience, I at len[;lh resolved lo reliu'u to the ship, and to take some belter opportunity of com|)leling an exami- nation loo important lo be slurred over as it musl have be<'n under such circumstances as the exislinj; ones. lvnowin{j its exact position, I could also now revisit it without difficulty, and. should that be necessary, without a guide; so that although 1 had not allained Ihe object in view, I had saved future lime by having thus pioneered the way. We therefore began our journey at eight in the morning; the sledges being heavily laden, and the travelling, in consequence, both difficult and laborious. Often, indeed, where the ground wus especially bad, we were obliged to throw olf a part of our load, and then, after advancing with ihe remainder, relurn lo bring it up ; then proceding as best we could, though of course with no great speed. About noon we saw thai I'oo-yel-lah was separating from our own parly, and w as leading his sledge on lo the left shore of Ihe lake. We therefore followed; and, on coming up lo him, found his inducement lo have been the tracks of some musk oxen which he had seen, and was now tracing. lie expressed a strong desire to kill some more, and w ished that 1 w ould hall here for thai purpose; a very natural wish on his pari, and one that I would ^••1 ^. I 256 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m^ iH'^'^h' liif '.ii ! il'l gladly have complied with, not only on his account, but for the sake of oursel/es and our crew on board, had there been any use in making such an acquisition. But we had already more meat than we should probably be able to carry to the ship, and the state of the ground was as yet such that we could not contrive to bury it 80 as to protect it from the wolves and gluttons. It was therefore to kill the poor animal for no end, or rather perhaps to regret that we were in possession of a valuable supply of fresh beef for our people, which we should be compelled to abandon to the beasts of prey whose tracks were every where visible. I therefore refused to stop here, and tried to persuade them to go on ; but in vain. Turning a deaf ear to my representations, Poo-yet-tah immediately began to build a hut, saying that we must sleep in it this night. He evidently believed that we were unable to proceed without his guidance, and that we could not, by ourselves, find the hut in which we had slept on the night of the twenty-seventh, which was the place that we had proposed to reach when we had set on* in the morning. I was, indeed, somewhat doubtful of that matter myself; but rather than submit to the loss of another day, I determined to make the attempt, especially as the weather began to improve, and promised to become more favourable every hour. It was, nevertheless, to the considerable surprise of our two guides when we departed without them ; and as we occasionally turned, to see whether they might not change their minds, we saw them abandon their work several times, for the apparent purpose of watching the route which we were taking, and the progress that we made. The former was a subject of some hesitation, and the latter far from rapid; since the recent gales had completely obli- terated our former tracks, and the fall of snow had so altered the features of the country in some parts, while others had been bared and rendered black by the storm, that I continued in great uncer- tainty about the road, till we arrived at the place called Nap-pur- re-uk-ta-lig. Here I immediately recognised the peculiar form of the lake, and thus found that we had not materially deviated from our intended direction. If our progress was small in proportion to the time and exertion we had spent in reaching this place, so were we exceedingly fatigued, and suffering extremely from thirst. 1 was therefore TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 257 obliged to unload the sledge in the middle of the lake, for the purpose of getting at the spirit lamp, that we might melt some snow for drinking; which having done, we were soon refreshed, and fit to continue our journey. It must appear strange to readers ignorant of these countries, to hear that the people suffer more from thirst, wht.n travelling, than from all the other inconveniences united. By us, at home, where the snow can never be very cold, where it can therefore be easily melted by the ordinary heat of the body, and where it can even be eaten as a substitute for water, the very different temperature of the same substance in that country is easily overlooked, as many persons are even ignorant of this fact. No great inconvenience can occur as to this matter, where its heat is rarely much below the freezing point, and scarcely ever falls as low as twenty degrees, it is a very different thing, when perhaps the highest temperature of the snow during the winter months, is at zero, and when it often falls to minus fifty or more, or to eighty degrees below the point at which we should attempt to thaw or to eat it in England. Were it not so bad a conductor as it is, we could, in this country, no more take it into the mouth, or hold it in the hands, than if it was so much red- hot iron : but, from that cause, this consequence at least does not follow. The effect nevertheless which it does produce, is that of increasing, instead of removing, the thirst which it is endeavoured to quench : so that the natives prefer enduring the utmost extre- mity of this feeling, rather than attempt to remove it by the eating of snow. I am not suflliciently acquainted with medical philosophy to explain this, nor am 1 aware that it has been explained; and it is, perhaps, as unfounded, as it is, in me, presuming, to suggest that the extreme cold of the material thus swallowed, when the body is heated and exhausted by fatigue, may bring on some inflammatory state of the stomach, so as to cause the suffering in question. Resuming our journey across the lake, we found the travelling much improved by the late gales ; and, soon after midnight, we arrived at the hut, truly exhausted by fatigue. In this condition, it was an exceeding mortification to find that a wolf had torn off the door with which we had secured its entrance, and that it was filled with snow. We were therefore compelled to commence digging into it, tired as we were ; when , after an hour's hard . I'tCi mSi ' 4 I I:.'!! 268 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY labour, we contrived to make it habitable for the night, and got into our bags at two in the morning. ( May 3) When we awoke, and began to bethink ourselves of de- parting, the weather was very unsettled and blowing in squalls from Ihe north; while fresh falling snow added to the obscurity and an- noyance caused by that which was drifting before the wind from the faces of the hills. The dogs too were so tired, by the labours of the preceding day, that nothing but my great anxiety to rejoin the ship and relieve the probable fears of Captain Ross and our other shipmates, would have induced me to proceed. We found the travelling extremely bad: but the worst part of it, by far, vvas a space of about a mile, crossing the high ridge which separated the next lake from that which we had left. This alone cost us from nine in the morning until two ; nor did we accomplish it without making three separate trips with the sledge, so as to bring forward all our matters to the same point. On the lake, however, the ice was as smooth as glass, for the winds had swept it clean ; so that we crossed it very quickly, and at a run all the way, having the additional advantage of a breeze in our rear, which very much diminished our exertions. The river had been laid equally bare; and, though comparatively rough, it was still slippery, so that we got over it easily, with the exception of a few falls in the snow holes which are generally found in ice of (his nature. In the evening, by seven o'clock, we had arrived at that ex- panded portion which I had formerly named after the Rev. Edward Stanley; and at nine reached the western point of the inlet called An-ne-reak-to. The whole length of the Stanley river, from the lake to the sea, I thus found not to exceed ten miles, while its greatest breadth appeared to be about a quarter of a mile. We had been informed that it abounded with fine salmon in the summer ; and we could now see the evidences of this, in the remains of huts scattered about its banks, being the places where the natives are accustomed to secure and conceal their winter stocks offish. We were now approaching the huts where our threatening adventure had occurred at our first setting out; and being doubtful of their feelings, or uncertain of what might have occurred during our absence, I was desirous of passing them unobserved, if I it TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?iS. 2.jy coiilil effect this ; the more so, as we were now alone, and the absence of our guides might have been a source of new sus- picions, or the cause of a renewal of hostiUty. But as soon as we had reached the level ice of the bay, we saw Ib-lu-she coming toward us, though evidently approaching with much liiution, as if not quite secure of his reception. If this proved the existence of very different feelings from that of hostility, the fact thai he was unarmed sufficed to remove all doubts, and 1 there- fore greeted him in our usual kind manner, to his infinite delight. Explaining then to him the proceedings and objects of the guides that we had left behind, the chief of whom was his brother, for whom he had at first expressed considerable anxiety, he became quite satisfied, and went off to communicate the news to his parly at the huts. In no long lime we gained sight of our s-hip, after having now travelled eighteen hours, without rest or refreshment. Unhickily, at this moment, one of the runners of the sledge sank into a deep crack, and stuck so fast that we were unable to extricate the machine by all the force that we could apply. We were therefore obliged to throw off the load, which we did with much difficulty. as we were both seized with a giddiness that threatened fainting ; to have undergone which at this temperature, and vvilh no aid at hand, would probably have been fatal to us. This, however, being effected, and our stores left behind, to be brought on the next day by our comrades of the ship, we got into the sledge, and arrived on board the Victory at four in the morning of the fourth of May, exceedingly fatigued, but otherwise in good health. i'f'W J fWt*: li ■"ll, "Iff "■■ . f^kii^ 260 SECOJID VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I ;'K for sale. 3 had been jy had not any more, the south- rds, an old ' to two of ft her last auld make agin also 1, that he npraclica- raself was in such {MayS), away by visit from ife was a kvo young together. to form t matters lore inti- derstand what we thus already knew, sufficed to render it probable that the history which Caesar has given of our British ancestors on this subject, is not so untrue as it has been sometimes thought. [May ^) A northerly wind, as usual, brought the thermometer from zero up to 18". Sunday service being performed, the man who had gone for his canoe returned with the frame on his back, iiaving brought it from Shag-a-voke. He was promised a new hoop for it, if he would bring us a seal ; and, preferring to travel at night, set off at ten o'clock. A fox was taken in one of the traps. {May 10) The weather continued cold; but when the snow ceased it was clear. A party went to the great lake to measure the ice. which they found to be eight feet thick, and the water seventeen fathoms deep. They saw no fish, but baited and set some lines. {May 11) The temperature continued again far lower than was to be expected at this season ; giving us some disagreeable anticipa- tions. Some natives brought a skin. The traces of reindeer and hares were seen, and eight snow buntings killed. At the end of our base line, soundings were obtained in 90 fathoms. {May 12) All the power of the sun, with a clear sky, could not raise the temperature beyond 11°. No fish were found at the lines, but a ptarmigan was shot. Two of our chief friends among the na- tives arriving, arrangements were made for a new journey. Some more came from the south, on the following day (j¥«y 13), but brought nothing; they went on to the northfrn huts; and, finding that this party was gone on an expedition, returned to sleep on board The thermometer ranged between 1® and 15°. {May 14) Nearly the whole of the northern party came to us, and brought the head and skin of the second musk ox ; but as it had lost the hind legs, it was spoiled as a specimen. They also brought the remaining quarter, or rather haunch, which weighed forty-three pounds, together with some skins, and a specimen of a greenstone chisel. Our only success in sporting was a single grouse. We had stipulated for a seal, for our dogs, but they did not arrive on the next day {May\^) : having probably been unsuccessful. Every thing was arranged to day for the contemplated journey on Monday. The fitting of the ship went on; but the condensing tanks were now removed, as being no longer necessary. {May 16) Church being held as usual, a large party came from the northward, and another from the southern village ; but they f' m m t' *hii . ■•( '^'^H 1 ; ^.^^^^^^H ■ i'i;. r .^^^^^^H ; ''' ^^^^^^^1 ' ! Of!'.. 'W: 1' N ,p 1 si III 202 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY bronghl no seal, nor anght else. Tlio Inst set informed us that Ihoy uerc to break up the next day, and to divide into two parties; one for huntinj; the nuisk oxen, and the other for lishin[j in the lake. Kach promised to hrinp; us supplies before they took leave. The thermometer was about 10". (yVr/// 17) The men and the leading mate went on with the sled(je and the boat, for the purpose of transporting^ them a staf^^e often miles, when the men who were not intended to proceed were to return. This they did in the evening; on which. Commander Ross and the surgeon proceeded in the small sledge, to join the mate and the advanced party. No supplies arrived from the natives, nor did we see any of them. On the following day it became so much warmer that the thermometer rose to 30", and small pools of water appeared on the rocks, under the influence of the sun. The eyes of the men who had constituted the party of the last expedition had been inflamed by their journey, and they were taken care of accordingly. {Mat/ 19) The surgeon returned, with the mate, from the de- tached party, which he had left about twenty miles off, under the care of two Esquimaux ; brin^jing back their sledge and dogs. The matu's eyes were so much affected, that he could not proceed. They had purchased food for the dogs, from IhC;. Esquimaux ; and their stock of provisions was increased by the return of our tw^o officers. We were pleased to find, on the following day {Ma?/ 20), that the weather continued to favour their expedition. The different patients were better, and we proceeded to lay gravel round the ship and over the Krusens'icrn. (Ifla^ 21) The sun could not raise the thermometer beyond 19° ; and on going to the hole which had been made in the lake, it was found covered with ice six inches thick ; the ice of the lake itself being seven feet and a half. The baits were untouched; and our other search after game was unsuccessful. On the followino? day {May 22), we ascertained that the ice near us had not increased in thickness, though there were four inches formed in the hole. The track of a musk ox was seen on the ice not far from u^. A summer tent was made, and some sails repaired. {3Iai/ 23) This Sunday was the anniversary of our departure from England. The musk ox furnished us with fresh boiled and roast meat for the whole crew. It had no more taste of musk than TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 263 I>cforc; and, having been longer kept was more lender. Durinp, their walk after church, the men tracked a while bear, as well as some hares and grouse. In the evening, Ikmallik, the geographer, with his wife and family, and two other men, arrived, with the intention of attending Commander Ross on his expedition, and were much disappointed to find that he had been so long gone, ll ap- peared that he had miscalculated the day, counting ten instead of five. We therefore engaged them to follow or meet him with pro- visions, within a week; at which they were nuieh pleased. We also borrowed a dog from them, as our own were all absent, in case we should meet the bear that had been marked. They bad been unsuccessful in seal hunting, but had discovered some holes, and hoped shortly to bring us an animal for the dogs, liach of the men received a fish-hook as a present; and the wife a pincushion. One of the men gave proof of his parental affection, by giving his stockings to his boy, who had stepped into a pool of water, and going barefooted home. {May 24) The canvas roof was to-day taken off as far as the mainmast, the sledge prepared, and other work done to the ship. The wind was north ; but. at midnight, the thermometer was at plus li2". {May 2u) Both days were clear and fine : the work went on; a ptarmigan was killed, and the traclis of deer and wolves seen. We hail a right to conclude that the former were migrating to the north, with their enemies hanging on their rear, it was the highest tide we had yet witnessed ; rising to nearly eight feet. {May 26) The first fog we had seen this year came on this morn- ing, and was followed by a fine day, the thermometer reaching 215°. The snow was reported to be melting fast; and a hole being cut in the ice, in a place whicii had been originally late in freezing, in con- sequence of a current, it was found to be little more than five feet thick. The temperature continued rising on the following day {May 27), yet slowly; and the mean, being the highest we had seen this year, was 20°. At the hole just mentioned, 1 found a current running a mile an hour to the eastward, with ten fathoms water, which was less salt than that near the ship. The footmarks of deer continued to tantalize us : it was difficult to guess how they con- trived to pass in this manner, so long, without being seen. {May 28) The weather became so much warmer as to average 2-5°, rising to near the freezing point. I ascertained, from a mea- ^''1 Sil Im fm p^ pi 1 ,, A f*i P\ ^*!i k4 i^' li 804 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I .^w-.;:| sured base, that llie height of the highest hill near us was 400 feet : that of the island close to us was forty. I obtained five sets of lunar distances, and made some trials with the dipping needle. A brace of ptarmigans was killed. The therm' uf^ter rose next day to 34<', and I obtained more lunar distances : preparing also for my intended journey on Monday. {May 30) After divine service, we waited in vain for our pro- mised guides, whose appointment had been fixed for this day. I knew that it would take a longer time to convey the provisions to the appointed place without their assistance, and therefore deter- mined to go by ourselves, in advance. The sledge was therefore loaded with five days' provisions for Commander Ross's party, and eight for my own, with the addition of a summer tent ; and I de- parted at seven, with the surgeon, two mates, and one of the fire teasers. An additional party was taken to draw our sledge ten miles, when they returned ; leaving us at one in the morning. That I may not interrupt the narrative of this journey, I shall here give the summary of the present month. The anxiety which naturally attended Commander Ross's absence during the expedition which he had undertaken, terminated in congratulations on account of his safety and success. His guide had conducted him to the narrow channel leading between the two seas, and he had determined its latitude to be such as to give forty- five miles to the north of our position ^ being in one of those inlets which could not be explored, on account of the ice, situated a little to the northward of Elizabeth harbour. Hence it was pro- bable that Cape Manson would be found to form the north-east point of America, supposing the sea to be continuous to Cape Turn- again. The exploring of the coast to the northward of Pad-le-ak bay, together with that to the westward of it, had farther been the work of the same officer, as had Neitchillee. In his journal, will be found what I need not here repeat, respecting the commencement of this expedition, and the little obstructions which it experienced at the outset. And if I need not notice these and some other mat- ters relating to the outfit, so is it unnecessary to give any summary of our transactions with the natives, during this month, since they included nothing important in addition to the details already given. The temperature of May was considerably below that mean of TO TDE ARCTIC REGIONS. 265 the former expeditions with which I have so often compared our own monthly ones, being only plus 15" ; while that at Tort Bowen was 17° 65', and the moan of the four different places 16°. This augured but ill for our speedy release : but we were willing to think, that having taken better care of our thermometer, it had only shown a lower temperature because the others had been ma- naged with less attention to a true result. We had been constructing lee boards for our ship, with the inten- tion of making her more weatherly; and our labours in refitting the rigging were in a state of great forwardness. Many observa- tions, of various kinds, had been made. As yet there was no appearance of scurvy; but two or three of the men showed just enough of threatening to make us fear that they would not be long exempt, unless we obtained a more ample supply of fresh provisions during the coming summer. The snow bhndness was not more common among us than with the natives ; and, in other respects, the health of tlfe men was good. We had not succeeded in procuring much game : while, in reality, we were too steadily occupied tc allow much time for this pursuit. But I must not forget, that, in this month, we completed our twelvemonth's absence from England. It had been an eventful year, but far from an unsuccessful one. We had done much by sea; and it must not be forgotten, that even a year of sea in these chmates is little better than a month of action, as it cannot well be more, in the value or extent of its results. They who live in our own England, cannot understand how a year, or years, are expended with a progress so small as that which has attended all these northern exploring voyages : if they would translate the word year into month, it would enable them to form juster conceptions of these voyages, and of the actual time expended on the results which have been obtained. But we had also done somewhat by land ; with the prospect of doing much more, should the sea fail us : and, while there was one view, at least, holding out hopes in which we could scarcely be disappointed, as there was another, which, on the average of chances, might have been equally gratified, if far less promising in the anticipation, we had reason to be content with our present situation and prospects. The year, too, had been passed busily, and with as little discomfort as was well possible : there had been 14. •% i ^,. iL S. 8S7 cIcanMl uwiiy, I ohtiiined some views of the land. We arrived befurr eleven, where we found seven of the natives, who supplied us wjtl' water, htil had no meal remaining. As we calculated on Rettiui; (heir dogs for a few miles farther at least, to assist our la!»ours. we pitched our tent to make our meal, being breakfast and dinner con- joined. We soon, however, discovered that they were going imme- diately in the same direction as ourselves, and were thus to be so heavily laden that they could give us no assistance; since it would l.'ike themselves two days to get to the first place at which tluy could expect food. They departed accordingly, at one o'clock, f procured some observations at noon, determining the latiludf, .iinong other things, at G9° 59', and the longitude at 9i2" 1 . At five, an old woman whose avarice had procured her the nici^- nameof Old Greedy, passed us to the southward, with three dot;.s drawing a seal-skin full of blubber, wldch she was to deposit in advance ; but we could not prevail on her to lend us one of h( r team. Our present position was considerably picturesque, bciiij; surrounded by rugged mountains and islands, in every direction t\cept to the north-eastward. The conical hills to the north- west were partially covered with snow; and at the foot of the nearest, was a detached rock not unlike a milestone, on which we found inscribed, by our preceding party, " twenty miles from Victory. '' All the rocks appeared to be of granite ; but we also found frajj- inents of limestone : every thing seemed to be what we had fouml it since first making this coast. The men being fatigued, they were smf lo rest till eight o'clock. {June- 1 ) We had started at ten o'clock on the preceding night, Itiil we went first to a hut, a mile off, to seek for an axe that had i)f'en buried by the surgeon and the mate, on the former expedition. A\o searched in vain, as the natives had probably taken it away, and we were thus scarcely under way till midnight. Landing at ihe bottom of this channel, we proceeded south-westward, and, ai ilie distance of half a mile, reached a lake about forty feet above the level of the sea ; following the bed of the river to it, as that was slill frozen over. It was only three-quarters of a mile wide, and about two hundred yards in breadth; being surrounded by preci- pitous cliffs. Following upwards from it, we came to another or similar dimensions, a hundred feet higher, which discharges itselt' into the one below. Thence proceeding in the same direction till iiSSkf SOS SECOND VOYAdE OF DISCOVERY m we had attoinrd thirty feet more of elevation, we descended about ninety feet to the gea of the nulf of Shag-a-voke, and about seven miles from its entrance. }\y means of a seal-hole, we found the water to be salt, and crossed this part of the bay near an island where the natives de- posit their canoes and winter stores. The land here changed i(> character, though the rocks were the same ; the whole surface being covered with fragments of granite and limestone, and thu presenting a most dreary and barren appearance. Reachiiij^ the land, we still pursued a south-westerly direction, up the chauiu i of a river, and about a mile onwards, at un elevation of about fifty feet; and at length arrived at a small lake, part of which was covered, above the ice, by water. Here we met the old woman returning with her dogs, having deposited her load. On being qucsliDued about the axe, she confessed that she was of the party that had stolen it, and that it was in possession of two of the men at the eastern huts. Having passed this lake, we then held our way over another of the same size and aspect, bounded by lower land, which was, how- ever, equally covered by huge blocks of stone, some of them in very fantastic shapes. This was about twenty feet higher than the former; and, following the windings of the hills for a mile, we came to the north-eastern end of the great lake, which seemed eleven or twelve miles in length. We soon found the huts of the Esquimaux who had left us on the preceding day for the purpose of coming here to fish : they were still built of snow, as before, but were now covered with skins. The people denied all know- ledge of the axe, and said it was in possession of the old woman. Proceeding on the lake, after this, we found a ridge of icebergs on it, differing much in aspect from those of the sea : but here we were obliged to stop for rest and refreshment ; some of the party being much fatigued. We set forward again at half-past five, and, soon after eight, arrived at an island in the middle of the lake. The men, however, were so much tired, from the sinking of the sledge into the soft snow, that we were obliged to stop ; lighting our fire and cooking our dinner, without pitching our tent. The time required in melt- ing snow for drink, detained us so long, that we did not move again till ten o'clock ; the weather being clear, with a gentle breeze. TO THE VRCTIC REGIO?«S. 200 Wp saw «omo rt'indctT, as we lind done at our first n'stinp-plaro on the ddy before, hut had no opportunity of firinjj at them, from the distance ut which they passed us. By niidui|;ht, we had reached the end of the lake, not without much labour, as the way was very bad. Wc now travelled south-eastward for a mile, and i;ained what we judged the highest elevation on our track, which I conjectured to be three hundre 276 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT i .1, I 1« •11 pose of directing the water to the southern shore, where the princi- pal channel lies ; while, on the opposite side, that forms a spacious bay backed by high land. The isthmus was covered with circles of stones, being the remains of native houses; and we saw a singular square mound, smooth, and covered with vegetation, resembling the two faces of a bastion, which proved, on examination, to be an alluvium deposited at the meeting of two streams. How often such deposits have been mistaken for Roman and other encampments, in our own country, is well known. The great inlet near this place measured about two thousand feet at the narrowest part; and, from this position, we saw the entrance of the bay, three miles off, being the outer part of Shag-a-voke. The north side of this opening descended gradually to a low point projecting eastward; the southern one continuing four miles more in the same direction, and then trending to the south-east. This side appeared clear of rocks and islets; but off the other, there was a rock, very remarkable, which, with two other islands, were named after my friend, T. Tilson, Esq., and his daughters, as seen in the plate ; while, farther north, there were three islets, taking an east- erly direction, which seem nearly joined to the main at low water. We arrived at the southernmost of these islands at seven in the morning ; and at this time the action of the sun on the snow had rendered travelling very difficult : the proper lime, in reality, being the night ; whence our inversion of day and night for the purposes of rest and sleep. The tent was here therefore- pitched, and the men allowed to rest and eat, while 1 made some necessary observa- tions for the latitude, but was obliged to refer those for the longitude to a future comparison with the ship's place, as my chronometer had met with an accident. A hare and a brace of ptarmigans were killed, and I saw many gulls and small birds. At five in the afternoon, the men being rested, we proceeded with our package, and departed at seven. The labour in this part of the journey was very severe, as we were obliged to draw the sledge over hummocky ice for eight miles ; sinking up to our knees at every step, and often being obliged to lift it over the obstructions. This piece occupied us six hours. The weather was fortunately very clear, and the snow had wasted away very much from the land. {June 7) At'ha!" 7ist one we had reached Cape Keppel, where TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 277 we hoisted our colours, and halted for refreshment : after which, resuming our journey, we found the ice smoother, and got on very well, making a drawing of that rock which resembles the Bass, and giving it the name of Adolphus Dalrymple, on account of its simila- rity to the crest of that family. Two miles farther off, we saw a flag flying, and thus knew that a party from the ship had been sent in search of us. Arriving at it, we found a note from Mr. Thorn, who, fearing that we might want provisions, had caused some to be deposited in a place indicated, where we accordingly found them. We did not happen, however, to be in want; having husbanded our own, by means offish and venison. We saw, about the preci- pices to-day, many gulls and owls, with numerous seals in the pools which now lined the shore. At seven, we arrived at the ship, after an absence of nearly nine days, and found every thing right, and all in good health. If it is but justice to the men to say that they exerted themselves to the utmost, they deserve even more praise for a very different display of obedience and self-devotedness. As I was the only one who drank no Spirits, and was also the only person who had not in- flamed eyes, I represented that the use of grog was the cause, and therefore proposed that they should abandon this indulgence : showing farther, that although 1 was very much the oldest of the parly, I bore fatigue belter than any of Ihcm. There was no hesi- tation in acquiescing; and the merit was the greater, since, inde- pendently of the surrender of a seaman's fixed habits, they had always considered this the chief part of their support. Thus we brought back all of this slock which had not been consumed the first day. It is difficult to persuade men, even though they should not be habitual drinkers of spirits, that the use of these liquors is debi- litating instead of the reverse. The immediate stimulus gives a temporary courage, and its effect is mistaken for an infusion of new strength. But the slightest attention will show how exactly the result is the reverse. It is sufficient to give men, under hard and steady labour, a draught of the usual grog, or a dram, to perceive, that, often in a few minutes, they become languid, and, as they ge- nerally term it, faint; losing their strength, in reality, while they attribute that to the continuance of the fatiguing exertions. He who will make the corresponding experiments on two equal boats' crews, ■m I f& i/S S£C0!<1) VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY rowing in a heavy sea, will soon be convinced that the water drink- ers will far outdo the others: while no belter testimony to this is required than the experience of the men who work in the iron foundries. That is the hardest work which falls to a man to do : and so well do the labourers in this department know that they cannot perform it, if they drink even beer, that their sole beverage during all the hours of this hot and heavy labour, is water. If London draymen and coalheavers are of a different opinion, every one knows the result; as the self-indulgence which leads to this luxurious and profligate practice is not less known. It is not that I am declaring myself an advocate for temperance societies, w hatever may be their advantages, nor that I am desirous of copying a practice lately introduced into some ships, under what- ever motives : but were it in my power, as commanding a vessel. I would exclude the use of grog, on the mere grounds of its debilita- ting effects, and independently of any ulterior injury which it may do : reserving it for those cases alone in which its use may be deemed medicinal, or, for any special reasons, useful. Such is the account of this journey : but as it contains'no register of the proceedings at the ship for so many days, I must resume that once more from the first of June, the records having been made, in my absence, by Mr. Thom. ;j.i CHAPTER XXVIII. PnOt.EEDl'NGS \y THE SHIP FROM THE FIRST OF JUNE— COMMAIVDER ROSS's RETURN. {June 1, 1830) The men were at wc.k at the leeboards. The thermometer at 27°, with a fog. On the following day {June 2), the caulking proceeded, and the dead eyes were preparing for the mainmast. Three grouse were shot, and the thermometer rose to 29". On the third of June there was little change in the heat; the work in the ship still going on. Vm TO TUE AKCIIC REGIO.^S. 879 MAUfDER On the fourth of June much of the snow vviis dissolved rouml Ihe ship ; the sun now having great power. A parly of natives came to it, including the wooden-legged man, who, having broken his new leg, was drawn by dogs, on a seal-skin, their fish sledges having been eaten. He was repaired by the carpenter, and departed. The thermometer was 27" at midnight. The usual work about the ship occupied the folic ng day as well as the present, and the tempe- rature did not materially change. [June 6) Being Sunday, the church service was read, as it had been during my presence on board. A party of seven men, with the carpenter, was afterwards sent to the southward, with directions for depositing a supply of provisions at the flagstaff, where we found it; and also in the hopes of meeting me, should they be able to extend their walk far enough. They returned, after travelling seven miles to no purpose, as far as that was concerned. {June 7) This was the day on which we rejoined the ship, after an absence of eight days and a half, and I may here resume my own journal. I found the thermometer to-day {June 8) at 3:2", and the work on the ship going on. The snow was rapidly and steadily melting during the day, and the appearance of the land was, in consequence, greatly changed. The rigging of the main and fore masts was fast advancing ; and the heat rose as high as oj°, fall- ing to 31" in the night of the following day (Jw;«e9), which found the foretopmast got up, and the bowsprit better secured, by new work. {June 10) In addition to the progress of our other work, we cut a hole in the ice above the Krusenstern, but could not get a sight of her, such was the depth under which she was for the present buried. A hare and four grouse having been killed, were found to have acquired their summer plumage and coating. {June 11) The ice became more and more covered with water, daily ; though the thermometer had rather sunk for the last three days. {June 12) The canvas roof was entirely removed this day, and a summer awning spread. It was cloudy ; and tlie first rain of this season fell in the evening. The torrents were seen running down the hills, and numbers of ducks and brent geese made their ap- pearance for the first time. The several kinds of* animals, I need scarcely now say, form a calender of the year in this country, as the flowering of plants does in our own; where the rai^jrations of I' \ 280 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY l'^ *(i(. birds, if I except the swallow, nightingale, and cuckoo, are little noticed in comparison. (June 13) On Sunday, a heavy fall of snow came on, early in the morning ; and, lasting till night, the ground was once more covered. At eight p. M., Commander Ross and his party returned, all in good health. They had travelled along the coast that led westward, a hundred miles west of Neitchillee ; establishing the continuity of the continent as far as the 99o of longitude, and in latitude TO^j being about a hundred and fifty miles to the westward of our pre- sent position. They had also travelled along the coast about twenty miles to the westward, north of the inlet which enters on the west- ward of the isthmus. In returning, they found that my deposit of provisions for them had been partly eaten and partly destroyed by the natives; but they still found as much as they required, visiting the south-west river of Neitchillee before returning homeward. The country which they traversed was barren, and formed of lime- stone ; they saw no deer nor any other animal except the willow partridge. But they found that the ice in the small lakes at Padliak had given way, and that the same was the case in the bay of Shag- a-voke. I must however now, as I have done before, refer to Com- mander Ross's Gwa narrative. CHAPTER XXIX. COMMANDER ROSS's NARRATIVE. {May 17, 1830) On the present expedition I was accompanied by Mr. Macdiarmid as far as Graham's Valley : the object of his attendance being that I might point out to him a spot to which pro- visions might be carried to await us on our return. Following the track of our party, we found them encamped four or five miles to the north of Too-nood-leed ; and on inquiry we found that one of them had been so affected by cramps, soon after setting out, that the rest were obliged to carry him in the boat as far as they were able '? ' 1»« TO TRK ARCTIC REGIO!T«. ^»1 lodothis:lh< soon, I resolved to resume the plan of lravelliu(; by n fit \sc therefore commenced the present day's journey at three in the afternoon ; but tlie snow was so soft that we were three hours in reaching Too-nood-leed, whence Blanky's increased inflammation prevented us from proceeding for two or three hours. We at length found it necessary to leave him behind under the care of the surgeon, however inconvenient such a loss was to our small party : as it was also easy to procure a sledge from the Esquimaux to carry him back to the ship. Thus also we unfortunately were unable to carry on the surgeon to the intended spot; since it was necessary that he should return with a man whose future services we could not afford to hazard ; and hence, unable now to calculate on the d«pot of provision? which we \m\(\ intended to make at Pad-le-ak, I was obliged to limit materially the period which I had intended for my absence on this expedition. Leaving them comfortably placed in the hut which we had for- merly occupied, together with a quantity of provisions in case of detention, we proceeded on our journey. Our force was thus reduced to four men, including Abernethy; and though assisted by eight dogs in a second sledge, our load was quite as great as we could manage, since it consisted of three weeks' provisions, besides instru- ments and clothes, and a skin boat. Ascending the hill from the bay of Too-nood-leed, and on the first lake, we noticed the tracks of a deer, with those of two wolves in pursuit, accompanied by fragments of hair and skin which the latter had torn from its sides; finding, not long after, the animal itself, partly devoured by its enemies. Our approach had probably frightened them away, and our dogs thus came in for a share of the prize. A fall of snow, with a fog, at midnight, rendered it very difficult for us to find our way across the great Middle Lake, and we were therefore obliged to guide ourselves chiefly by the direction of the wind until three in the morning {May 19), when we encamped for U f:y. ^ ■ %fi*ai If 1 ■' ' r ! 1 ti 1 "illy' ' if ; 883 SECO?II) VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ""'( rt*8t. Hut a scitik; nflernoon follownl ; and, rtrommeiiiMiii] our cxntions al six in the evening, we arrived in 8in;hl of the sea ai eleven o'clock. Here, a view from the hill on our rijjhl enabled nic to delerniine our future route ^ and hence I eould discern the low land of the opposite shore, stretchinf; across the bay from Nei-lyel- le to wilhiii fifteen or twenty det^rees of Cape Isahclla. To this cape I then determined to proceed, because 1 could there obtain a more commandini; view of the inlet, on account of its (greater ele- vation. The parly which I had thus ((uitted for a short time, had an- nounced their arrival on the shores of the wesh ■ ii sea by three cheers : it was to me, as well as to them, and still more indeed to the leader than to his followers, a moment of interest well deservini; the usual •' hall '' of a seaman; for it was the ocean that we had pursued, the object of our hopes and exertions; the free space which, as we once had hoped, was to have carried us round the American continent, which ought to have given us the triumph f(»r which we and all our predecessors had laboured so long and so hard. It would have done all this, had not nature forbidden; it might have done all this had our chain of lakes been an inlet, had this valley formed a free communication between the eastern and western seas; but we had at least ascertained the impossibility ; tin desired sea was at our feet, we wr^re soon to be travelling along its surface; and, in our final disappointment, we had at least the con- solation of having removed all doubts and quenched all anxiety, of feeling that where God had said No, it was for man to submit, and to be thankful for what had been granted. It was a solemn mo- ment, never to be forgotten; and never was the cheering of a sea- man 80 impressive, breaking asil did on the stillness of the night, amid this dreary waste of ice and snow, where there was not an object to remind us of life, and not a sound seemed ever to have been heard. At midnight we proceeded over the level of the sea ice, and. passing some hummocks, arrived at the desired cape, al six in the morning {May 20). Our encampment here was of a novel nature ; being formed by excavating, in a ridge of snow, a burrow, large enough to contain the party, which was then roofed by the skin boat; securing afterwards its sides to the surface, by means of the snow that had been removed. An opening being made on the lee side. TO illK ARC lie REGIONS. ys;i 'ty v it was stoppcj up l>y a Idork of snow for a door, arul. l»y means of the hlanket Ua^i, we ronlrivcd to make our beds both warm and soft. A spirit lamp served to mell siiffieient snow for drink ; while thus, for many suhsetpient ni|;ht8, we enjoyed a sounder sleep than we had often done under rireumslanees far more eomfortalde and promisin}]^. (lape Isabella rises abru|)tly, and often precipitously, to about five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is formed of grey granite, presenting patches of vegetation, which, for this climate, seemed to have been unusually luxuriant in the past summer. The tracks of grouse, hares, and foxes, were the only indications of aiiimal life that were seen. From the accounts of the Kstpiimaux, 1 had expected to see a M.irrow entrance to this inlet, beyond the cape, to which they had i;iven the name of Ik-ke-rnsh-yuk ; as they had also described it to lie formed by a low point to the westward, and some islands, llul, instead of this, the land on which I stood, still preserved its west- erly trending, while the opposite shore diverged; ami 1 thence concluded that the reported inlet was on the side opposed to my present place, where several small islands skirled the northern part of it to the south-west. Under these circumstances, 1 considereil that my best plan was to continue along this coast as far as the en- trance of the inlet ; the iM^undary of which would be determined by the hummocky ice of th- ocean. The needful observations for this ciipe were then made ; but, in returning to the party, I had the misfortune to break my only compass by a fall; an accident which prevented me from makingany farther observations on the variation of the needle, and thus causes a blank which 1 must regret, perva- ding the remainder of this journey. Our labour hitherto had exceeded our strength ; and it was therefore regulated thenceforward, that we should rise at four in the afternoon ; and, after our meal, with the necessary stowage and arrangements, proceed on our daily, or rather nightly, journey between six and seven : limiting the length of it to ten hours. The labour of encamping, the evening ( being truly a morning ) meal, repairs of clothes, and other matters, then occupied three or four hours, so that the seven or eight remaining were left for sleep. Under this new arrangement we set out at six in the evening ; pursuing our route close along shore, under the projecting point 'a I Il fw 384 SECOIND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT ti » if '^i f m t ,'. > .t ■4 ^ivi i m ft'Bi f ?'!» ! « 2' of limestone which skirts Cape Isabella, and extends along this shore for some miles, where it is broken into capes and inlets by means of long ridges of that rock. The direction, here, of the coast, for abont ten miles, is west-north-west, after which it be- comes more northerly : and it became necessary to examine the whole of the bays and inlets thns formed, because I understood from the natives that the entrance of the expected inlet was narrow. They, however, proved shallow ; and being light in comparison with the loaded party, 1 was enabled to search the whole accu- rately, while the rest skirted the coast between the several points. ( May 21 ) After a fatiguing day's journey of twenty miles, we halted soon after four in the morning ; and, in this as in the pre- ceding, we passed several canoes covered with stones, and somo cachees of provisions belonging to the Esquimaux, which, of course, we took care not to disturb. The occasional discovery of seaweed, shrimps, and shellfish, also served to confirm us in the belief that we were really on the shores of the ocean, and not of any fresh- water lake, supposing that there could have been, here, one of such magnitude as to occupy the great flat space of ice before us. This, indeed, had been at one time imagined by some of the parly, in consequence of the want of a tide-mark on the shore, and of there being no hummocky ice in the offing. For the last four or five miles of this journey, the coast was formed of granite, containing large crystals of felspar, with gar- nets; the hills, at a short distance from the sea attaining the height of six or seven hundied feet. Our present encampment was on the shore of a small inlet ; and. on examining it, I found a good harbour, but of no great extent, at its end, well protected by two small islands. Meeting the party at the farther point of this sinuosity, a snow hut was found ; and this we believed to have been occupied by the natives, who had arrived at the ship shortly before our departure. Here, from a lofty point, I gained a very extensive view of a considerable inlet to the west- ward of the cape, which seemed to promise the desired opening to the polar ocean, as I judged from the very different characters of the two shores. That on which I stood was formed of granite, high and rugged, deeply intersected by ravines, and skirted by numerous rocky islets ; while the opposite one was very low, aiui consisted of limestone. m* TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 285 In order to save time, I proceeded immediately, in company with Abernelhy, to examine this inlet; taking, to aid us, the sledge, with five dogs, so as to assist us alternately, and thus diminish that fatigue by which we should have been inconveniently retarded. We thus passed many islets along the eastern shore, presenting abundant traces of Esquimaux ; and, after an hour's travelling toward the north-west, arrived at the entrance of an arm of the sea, or perhaps of the mouth of a river, about half a mile in breadth. Here the hills on each side were of granite, rising, in some places, perpendicularly, to the height of three hundred feet. The glassy surface of the ice, here at least, indicated its freshwater origin ; and this, with other puzzling circumstances, rendered a minute examination necessary. We therefore continued our journey ; and after travelling five or six miles to the north-north-east, reached the termination of the inlet, and there found the estuary of a river ; the banks being con- tracted at the exit to a few hundred feet, so as to produce a rapid ; while, a little higher up, it was a quarter of a mile in breadth. The number of canoes that we found buried on the western bank, proved it to be a principal fishing station of the Esquimaux ; as we might equally have judged from the numerous landmarks and cachees. The weather being very fine, I ascended a hill about a thousand feet high, whence I obtained an extensive view of a chain of lakes, leading to the north-east through a limestone country, while the granite hills took a north-north-westerly direction. In descending, the party came in sight near the bottom of this inlet ; and being directed onwards to the farther point, I completed the survey of this bay, and rejoined them at their encampment. The river thus discovered was named after Nicholas Garry, Esq. A fresh breeze made our burrow colder than was agreeable, though the thermometer was still above zero. The drift and haze which accompanied, prevented us also from starting till eight in the evening, when we continuedour journey along the const, which soon began to trend to the northward of west ; and, shortly after, the cheering sight of the sea, covered with hummocks of ice, con- vinced me that we had at length arrived at the strait called Ik-ke- rush-yuk by the Esquimaux. Continuing to follow the coast, we found it turn quickly round to the north-west ; while the heavy- :wm 3Sfl SECOIND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY .' .■♦' J '■Hk. washed sea ice on our left removed nil douht of the course now to be pursued. I therefore resolved to reach the opi)osite coast, '•hould this attempt prove to be practicable ; and finding a favourable tract o smooth ice, we left that on which we were, before midnight. I proceeding, we came to a ridge of humniocky ice thirty feet high, running across our path, which we had great difficulty in sur- mounting; it being necessary to carry the luggage over it, and to cut a passage for the sledge with axes. This occupied more than an hour ; when, observing some islets to the south-west that had previously been concealed by this ridge, we steered for them, and after passing several lower ones, nearly on a level with the flat ice, were obliged by a supervening haze, to encamp on the east side of an extensive island, at five on the morning of the twenty-third; having travelled about sixteen miles. {May ^o) This, being the anniversary of our departure from England, was distinguished by a dinner of frozen roast beef. and. what was now rare with us. a glass of grog. The group of islets to the north-west was named Beverly, and the land on which we encamped Matty Island, in compliment to the fair donors of the beautiful silk colours which we then displayed, in honour of the day, and on the usual formalities of taking pos- session of this hitherto undiscovered spot. Towards noon, the clearing away of the haze allowed me to obtain a good view, disclosing the north end of this island, about two miles off, with a great extent of ocean, terminating in heavy packed ice. Here, also, seeing that the land to the south-west was low. and apparently broken into islands, 1 resolved to keep along the north shore of Malty island, where the hummocky ice assured me that we were on the boundary of the great northern ocean. We therefore pursued our journey at the usual time, but found the way extremely laborious among this rough ice; while our toils were much increased by a thick fog, which froze on our clothes so as to render us nearly incapable of moving under their weight and stiffness. It w^as even with great difficulty, so much were the men exhausted, that we could form our encampment at six in the morn- ing, when we halted. The place we chose was under the west point of Matty island, formed, like the Beverly islets, of small ridges of limestone, rising to a considerable height, which have a TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 38- irse now to wt'St-south-westerly direction. We had coasted along it about twelve miles ; but all else that we had seen consisted in a few tracks of partridges, together with some footsteps of bears, hares, and loxes, which appeared quite recent. [Maij'^i) We were in a miserable plight, from the fatigues of this day, and passed a comfortless night. To resume our hard and frozen dresses, was also a most difficult and painful operation ; but the evening proved fine, and a little courage and exertion soon put lis in motion once more. Trom the place which we, thus, shortly altained, the opposed shore of the island which we had left appeared »'»' _^'^^-^«i' 0) y *«it ,#^.WfP«;> iri' ini 294 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ¥» ikj . • •i U¥ fl^ journey, arriving at our former encampment at six. We had here found a sinfjh; piece of drift wood, the only one that we had seen since we h'ft the ship ; but were far better pleased to have aug- mented our slender store of provisions by a hare and two grouse. Kvery thing thus united to render this a marked day : and, such animals are we, in spite of ourselves, that the rare occurrence of a hot supper and a glass of grog made us for a moment forget all our disappointments, and rather caused us to feel pleasure that we were now returning home, than regret that, in so doing, we were renouncing the very object of our long anxiety and hard pursuit. The longitude of the point on which we were encamped, and which I named Point Culgruff , was determined by a pocket chro- nometer, in preference to that which might have been deduced from our sets of lunar distances, because we found, on our return to the ship, that its rate of going had been remarkably steady. The hard trials which this watch underwent, united to its wonderful regularity, form a compliment to the makers, Parkinson and Frodsham, which it would be superfluous to state in other terms. The longitude of this point, thus ascertained, is 98° 52' 49" west, and the latitude 69" 46' 19". The time of high water was three o'clock, and the rise and fall but seventeen inches. Victory point lies in latitude 69" 37' 49", and longitude 98° 40' 49' : while of Point Franklin, as near as those could be determined from an estimated distance, the latitude is 96° 51' 15", and the longitude 99° 17' 58". At seven in the evening we commenced our journey homeward, steering across the country direct for the point of our dep6t. We were thus enabled to cut off a considerable distance ; and as we thus also contrived to cross several lakes where the travelling was easy, we reached our store at six in the morning of the thirty-first, of May very much fatigued however by the exertions which we could not, nevertheless, have slackened or delayed, as we had nothing in the shape of provisions left. The unlucky dogs had been unable to continue their work for some days past : they were consequently unharnessed, and one of them died in the course of the day, while another was missing when we rose at six in the evening to continue our journey. Proceeding, we traced the coast line between this station and Port Parry, and at lt:i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 29^ •f- length reached the encampment of the twenty-sixth of last month, at four in the morning of the first of June. I here completetl the examination of the bay, which 1 had then left unfinished ; and, after this, we arrived at Point Young about six in the morning of the second. A l>race of grouse and a fox were here shot ; and we found many circles of stones, marking the former summer residences of the Esquimaux. {June 3) Setting out again in the evening, we arrived at (lape Sabine at three on the following morning ; and here we obtnincil water to drink, without the trouble of melting the snow. A small pool was open, and it was the first indication of a thaw which we had seen. At six we reached Cape Abernethy; and being desirous, if possible, to survey the whole coast line of the continent towards Nei-tyel-le, we proceeded in a south-south-easterly direction along the west shore of the strait which separates Matty island from the mainland ; encamping at half past six. The latitude here was 69" 30' 42", and the longitude 96° 8' 26" west. {June 4) A strong westerly breeze prevented our departure till nine o'clock, from which time we continued the examination of the coast to the southward till five ; having made a journey of but nine miles during this night. The snow was deep, and the party now much weakened, so that we found it impossible to travel faster. For some time past, indeed, we had found the usual march often hours loo much for the strength of the men, reduced as their allowance of provisions now was ; but this part of the arrangement could not be altered, though we could not succeed in surmounting more than ten or twelve miles in the day. We were still eighty miles from the ship, and the remaining provisions amounted only to five days' consumption ; while we were by no means sure that we might not meet with many impediments in our way back to Nei-tyel-le. This also served to alter my plans, or at least to throw a doubt over their accomplishment; since I saw that unless the coast should assume an easterly direction the next day, I must abandon the inten- tion of completing this whole line of shore, as I had hoped. Soon after recommencing our journey in the evening, we arrived at the entrance of a considerable inlet, but the haziness of the weather prevented me from gaining a distinct view of its termina- tion. I therefore crossed to the southern point, and thus obtained such a sight of it from a high hill, as to trace the continuity of the TswZi '■^ ■*!» ■ml * I -t' *i ||;;J,(iKt' 296 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY land round n small bay to the south, nnd afterwards joined the parly at the eastern extreme point at three in the afternoon, givinjj to it the name of Captain \V. H. Smyth, of the Royal Navy. This journey proved so difficult, from the quantity of hummocky ice lo be passed, and the depth of the snow in the intervals, that we suffered great fatigue, and two of the dogs were left behind. (June 15) As the coast still trended to the south-south-east, I de- termined now to steer direct forNei-tyel-le, as our provisions would no longer permit any farther examination of the shore in this tpiarter. We therefore left Point Smyth at four, and directed our course to the southernmost of a group of islets, nearly east of us, where we arrived at seven in the morning. This islet, of which the latitude is69« »9' 52", and the longitude 95" 45' »0", is high, and afforded an extensive view of the neighbouring islands, with much more of the continental shore than I had seen from Point Smyth ; but a thin haze which covered the land prevented me from tracing it very distinctly to the south-eastward. The snow was now separated into patches in different places j and we found three snow huts, which had been occupied in the preceding winter by the family of Kan- ny-yoke, whose route towards the ship by the Stanley river could be traced for a certain distance, by the marks of the sledges. The number of the traces of the Esquimaux found about here, showed also that this was one of their steady places of resort ; while, farther linding the landmarks in great numbers, as they had been described to us, I had no hesitation in giving to this islet the native name of 0-wut-ta, since by this it had been indicated to us. Though the evening was foggy, the sun's place could be occa- sionally seen through the haze, and enabled us to proceed at nine. We travelled over very level ice, though sometimes passing hum- mocks that appeared to have been formed in the preceding year. At four in the morning of the sixth, we obtained a sight of the high hind of Cape Isabella : it was like that of an old friend ; and as it gave us a no distant prospect of the termination of our present toils, it excited our party to exert themselves with a spirit which had for some time been flagging. Halting for the day, at six, in latitude 69*" lb' 46", and in longi- tude 95° 13' 6", we had some difficulty in linding snow deep enough to form our burrow ; while the hardness of the ice beneath, on which we were thus compelled to lie, was sufficiently uncom- TO THE ARCTtC REGIONS. 207 fortabic, contrasted with the »oft hnl which the snow ha«l fornierly afforded. We set out again on a very fine evening, meeting now, at every fresh step, with well-known land, and thence gaining, hourly, fresh spirit to work onr way onwards to our home : a temporary and not a very comfortable one, it is true, but, where every thing is comparative, a home to our hopes and feelings, such ns even England would be whenever it should be our fate to leave this land of cold and miwry, and to find that overy degree of latitmle was bringing us to rest and peace, as far f s there are in this world peace or rest. Our path was also good ; and, under all these advantages . we proceeded with unusual speed : since there was here no appearance of a thaw, nor the least yielding in the crust of snow which covered the ice of this inlet. We were soon made aware of the presence of Esquimaux in our neighbourhood, by tracing the marks of a man dragging a seal; and this also was an acceptable circumstance, since it promised us a supply of provisions. Here, also, we saw gulls, together with some seals, basking in the sun with their young. A laborious journey of fourteen miles at kngth brought us to our encampment for the day {June 7), in latitude 69° 20 37", and longitude 94° 31' 5Si", near a low point formerly seen from Cape Isabella. Several small islets at this place were named (Catherine, and the point itself Margaret. A reef stretches out from the northernmost end of point Mai- garet nearly a mile to the south-west, and the heavy masses of ice that were grounded on it, indicated the force by which they had beta brought into that position. From the same point the shore of the continent was seen trending away to the south-west, and could be distinctly traced to the distance of seven or eight miles. The extreme point in sight was named Point Scott. The islets, as well as the mainland, were here formed of limestone, like the rest of the coast to the westward. We here saw innumerable tracks of reindeer, directed hence to the high land of the opposite coast, and had the good fortune to kill a fox and a brace of grouse. It blew hard at eight, when we set out : and, steering direct for Nei-tyel-le, we passed within two miles of Cape Isabella. On one of the islets we found a small pool of water, but we afterwards under- stood that the thaw had commenced at the ship some days earlier. 15.. ,r' 206 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 'i After a faliguingf journey, we again encamped on the ice at sevefl in the morning of the eighth of June, about seven miles from Nei-tyel-le. At noon it blew a strong gale; and, for the first time since leaving the ship, I was unable to obtain any observations for latitude. It was an occurrence that reminded us how highly we had been favoured on this journey, by a long tract of good weather. Early in the evening I set off alone in search of the Esquimaux, whose footsteps were every where visible ; directing the party to follow at the usual hour. After tracing these marks for two hours, I reached the islet where I had requested Captain Ross to send a supply of provisions, but could discover no mark of the visit of our own people. I soon, however, heard the shouts of the Esqui- maux : and a young man shortly after joined me, with a welcome expressive of the highest satisfaction. A set of dogs was imme- diately harnessed by them and sent oif to assist our party in coming up. Atayaraktak now led me to a cairn of stones where I found a note from Captain Ross, informing me that he had there waited for my return till the fourth, and had deposited some provisions for our use at a short distance from the cairn. The dogs of the natives had however discovered the prize, and Mil-luk-ta had that morning carried it home. I immediately therefore went to his tent, when his mother brought out all that was left, acknowledging that they had made use of the rest. AH that we thus saved consisted in eight pounds of meat and some bread; but most of this was unfit for use, though even the little that remained was very acceptable. They had emptied the canister of rum and lemon-juice, which they called very dirty water : and then pointed out a stream where we could supply ourselves with what was clean. They ndw presented us with some fish that seemed to be a small species of cod, promising to catch more for us; and I therefore determined to halt the party at this spot, for rest and refreshment. We encamped near them, in consequence; but having now no snow, were obliged to build a stone shelter, in which they gave us their assistance. Of the eight dogs that we had brought from the ship, there were now but two remaining; and these were so ex- hausted, that another day's work would probably have killed them also. Yet this was a selection from the very best of those which TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 399 at seven in Nei-tyel-le. time since rations for fhly we had k^eather. Esquimaux, he party to two hours, >ss to send the visit of ' the Esqui- a welcome was imme- ir party in ;re I found lere waited ! provisions le dogs of Mil-hik-ta therefore that was rest. All and some e little that canister of : and then with what be a small therefore reshment. now no ey gave us t from the ere so ex- illed them ose which the Esquimaux possessed: while the whole of them had become unserviceable after eight days travelling, so that they were cast off from the sledges and suffered to do as they pleased. It was plain that we had overworked them ; and we now found that, had it indeed been possible, we ought to have followed the system of the natives, who never drive these animals for more than four days at a time, seldom so much, and then give them one or two for rest. We had travelled, on the contrary, twenty-three consecutive days : a rare occurrence in that climate, and for which we were indebted to the very uncommon serenity of the weather. Our encampment was completed by four in the afternoon, and we at last enjoyed one good* dinner out of the fish which had been given to us. The natives, in the mean time, collected round us to ask questions respecting our journey and our objects: matters much more easy to ask of than to answer; but they were above all desirous to know whether we had been at Oo-geoo-lik. The strangers were formally introduced to us by some of our old friends: and we were afterwards entertained by a history of their own adventures during our absence, in which we could not help ima- gining that they were indulging some wit at our expense, from the bursts of laughter which followed these anecdotes. Still, every thing was in good humour ; nor could we be otherwise than grati- fied by the union of this mirth with their kindness towards us. The length of our beards, which had not been shaved since we left the Victory, was, among other things, a source of great amusement; while one of them, a stranger, whose beard was of unusual size among this tribe, claimed consanguinity with us on that ground. This man, called 0\v-wen-yoo-ah, was a very intelligent person, and a great traveller. He told me that he had passed the winter with Kan-ny-yoke, and immediately recognised a piece of deer's horn which i had found at the huts in 0-wut-ta island. He also informed me that Oo-geoo-lik was many days' journey beyond that place ; there being first an inlet to be entered, after which there were three days', journey on lakes, across some low land ; having passed which, they again arrived at salt water, and were obliged to travel many days along the sea-coast. His wife and son were now packing up their tent ; and on our retiring to rest, they all departed, informing us that we should find them at Tar-rio-nit-yoke. The ':-}■, 300 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ..""^ iii;ii H* 0. il (lay having been very fine, I obtained observations at this place, the name of which is E-nook-sha-lig. In the morning, two of the women brought us some seal blubber for our fire ; and another, who had fished for us while we slept, presented us with about thirty of the same fishes, being all that she had taken. As I was desirous to know whether these presents were tokens of gratitude for our former favours, or were brought in the hopes of a reward, I desired the men not to make any return for them. Notwithstanding this, the women who had brought the fuel, which seemed their most valued article, informed us whose turn it would be to bring the next supply; and thus in rotation, every three hours, we received from some of them a fresh stock, which proved much more than we required. The fish were also furnished abundantly, in a similar manner, but not with the same regularity : even our two dogs were not neglectec' being regularly fed twice a day, while they took care to keep off their own, lest they should interfere with those w hich were most in want. For all this we offered nothing in return, nor did they seem once to expect it ; so that whatever avarice or keenness in dealing we might have suspected them of on other occasions, we had here ample proof of their hospitality, if not of aught so refined as gratitude ; on the want of which virtue, however, our limited acquaintance with them could never have enabled us to pronounce. Anxious to ascertain where the river whi i ad discovered on the eighth of April discharged its waters into the sea, I prevailed on the native called Atayaraktak to take me to the entrance of the inlet. He informed me that he had been there some days before, for the purpose of making a fishing hole in the ice ; that he would willingly conduct me thus far, but that if I chose to proceed farther, he must remain behind to fish: a reason which seemed abundantly solid, since I could not but perceive that our consumption had materially reduced their store. Leaving the party, therefore, to work at such repairs of various articles as were now wanted, I set out with this man, and after tra- velling about five miles to the south-south-westward, we arrived at the entrance of an inlet somewhat less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, but enlarging considerably in its progress. This strait he called Ik-ke-rush-yuk, a name derived from the rapidity with which the water rushes out in the summer ; the stream being fresh and TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 301 good for drinking, as he said, though at this point, where I tasted it, I found it very salt. I obtained no sounding here in six fathoms, i;i'hich was the length of my companion's line. (June 9) While he remained to fish, I proceeded along the left shore of the inlet, about four or five miles; and ascending an elevated ground, gained a commanding view of the inlet, though I could not be quite sure of the continuity of the opposed and remote shore. My conclusion, however, from the report of the Esquimaux, was, that the west branch of the river in question must fall into the sea somewhere to the southward of Point Scott. The shore on which I stood had gradually changed tts trending from south to south-east by east ; and at two or three miles beyond, the inlet appeared to be not more than half a mile broad, whence it turned more to the north-east : and here I could see the spot I had visited on my first journey to this place. But as I could pursue the present examination no farther, 1 returned to my fishing friend, whose patience was nearly exhausted, He had caught about thirty fish, and was ready to go back to his party. We reached E-nook- sha-lig at six in the morning; much exhausted, in consequence of the laborious walking through the soft snow. Mr. Abernethy here informed me that during our absence the natives had given them a feast ; each family having cooked a kettle- ful of fish. They were consequently first invited to one of the tents, where the contents of the kettle having been dispatched, the next family treated them in the same manner, and so on, in rotation, till they had run this sort of eating gauntlet through the whole of the five tents. It is not surprising if they thus ate much more than ihey ought to have done. It was a feature of somewhat refined politeness in their entertainers, and more to be expected from an ancient Spaniard than an Esquimaux, that during the whole time of this prolonged meal these really kind hosts continued thanking them for the honour thus conferred : reminding them also that they had themselves been fed in a similar manner at the ship, in the preceding winter, and thus proving those grateful feelings which we might formerly have doubted ; while of this we could now be quite sure, since, having hitherto made no presents in return, we made none on the present occasion, nor during the whole of our stay with them : being desirous to put off till the very last what we intended to give, that we might remove all doubts on this subject. i'> ' ♦i 308 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m \i' r ; I 'I'! m '^%m {June 10) Being now much recruited by a day's rest and all this good living, we set out at ten in the night of the tenth of June : having first, since we could now entertain no doubt of their real gratitude, distributed among these natives every thing which >ve could spare. This, howevejp, was fully returned to us in an ample supply of fish; which, in addition to the blubber that had been served in superfluous abundance, fully provided us for all the remainder of our journey. Some of them also accompanied us as far as Pad-le-ak, to assist us in dragging our sledge, and to point out to us where their tents would be pitched in the summer. On finally separating, they continued to cheer and thank us as long as we were within hearing, and when they could no longer see us, owing to the irregularities of the ground. They had desired us to follow the tracks of a party which had preceded 5 and this instruction proved of essential service, in spite of my endeavours to find a shorter road for myself by neglecting their advice. I had imagined that they were going to fish at some place which would take us off the most direct road, and therefore quitted the indicated track, attempting to gain the route by which we had formerly travelled. In this, however, I was completely baffled, by the great depth of the snow and water on that line, wherever I attempted to diverge into it ; so that I was at length glad to abandon, and I believe fortunate in surrendering, my own opinion, and consenting to follow my yet unseen guides. A dense fog, indeed, soon served to ccivince me of the wisdom of this choice ; since, without that track which served us as a compass, we should have been compelled to halt in the middle of one of the lakes, without being exactly certain where we were, or what was to be done next. We arrived at Tar-rio-nit-yoke, in latitude 69" 41' 6", and lon- gitude 92° 154' 21", at eight in the morning of the eleventh, and encamped on the south side of the stream which carries the waters of this chain of lakes to the sea. The party of Ow-wen-yoo-ah was here seen on the opposite shore; and as soon as they perceived our arrival, one of them waded across the stream, which was between four and five feet deep, to bring us some fuel. This man was our acquaintance Ow-wen-yoo-ah, and he told me that they intended to remain there fishing, for some time. He expressed himself much disappointed at the absence of a large party which Ik I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 303 he had expected to find here; informing us also that he had gone, the day preceding, in pursuit of some reindeer with their fawns, which had been seen in the neighbourhood of Shag-a-voke, but without success. When we rose in the evening, to pursue our journey, the whole of Ow-wen-yoo-ah's family came over to us. His present wife and children belonged to another man who was his particular friend, and an angekok, to whom he had, in the preceding autumn, lent his own two wives ; a loan which is here considered a peculiar mark of friendship, and, it must be admitted, not very unreason- ably. He had expected the restoration of this pair of spouses at this time and place ; but the borrower Shoong-ug-u-wuk had taken them with him on the expedition after deer, and this breach of agreement seemed to be the chief cause of our friend's vexation and disappointment. If we once supposed. that this practice, for which these people may plead the authority of ancient Rome, was limited to the na- tives of Repulse bay, we had subsequent occasion to believe that it was universal among this tribe , the inhabitants of Roothia, as we must now term this country. Others may analyze the morality of this fashion ; but one thing at least appeared certain, namely, that the women had no voice in the matter, and were therefore considered merely as properly or furniture, conformably to the high authority already quoted, and to the practice of some other nations in states of civilization rather more resembling, it must be owned, that of Roothia than of the mistress of the world. At this place the thaw was* proceeding with such extraordinary rapidity, that the stream which we had crossed in the morning with the greatest ease, was now impassable. The torrent of water thus discharged from the lakes had also covered the ice which was to b^ traversed, to the depth of several feet. Not a dry spot remained any where ; for there being no tide powerful enough to break up the frozen barrier towards the sea, this disengaged water could find no passage to it, except through a few seal holes which were quite incompetent to drain it off. Had we not already known that such must be the case at this season of the year, we should have had ample proof of the necessity of condensing the expedition from which we were now returning, within the very limits to which it had been fixed. It is true that |f '} \^mm % \m \M m !, 304 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY our confined stock of provisions formed the actual restraint on our farther advance, and that our return was, as I have already shown, compulsory, from this cause. Yet in thus restricting that allow- ance, and, with it, the time of our absence, we had not acted im- prudently, as the facts now proved ; whether or not we are to be allowed the credit of having shown prudence and foresight in our calculation. And however impossible it was then, and even now is, to suppress the constantly returning regret that we did not reach Cape Turn again, I cannot see how we could have completed that survey and returned in safety, or perhaps returned at all, even though we had been amply provided for a longer journey. At any rate, it was plain that the arrangements for such an ex- pedition must be very different from what ours had been ; and that if it was to be undertaken in the following season, a new cal- culation must be made, and very different expedients adopted, to- gether with much more force, to ensure any chance of success. Under the present obstructions we were recommended by Ow- wen-yoo-ah to go round by Shag-a-voke, siuie he considered that the water was too deep for us to cross. This, however, would have materially increased our distance from the ship ; and, as I also knew that the ice was very bad at the entrance of the inlet which we should thus be obliged to traverse, I determined to attempt the wading of the bay at this place, since the distance was not much more than two miles. I therefore caused all the holes in the skin boat to be repaired ; and having stowed the luggage in it, we proceeded on this amphibious portion of our journey at ten o'clock. The water did not finally prove more than knee deep, and was barely sufficient to float our boat : but we found no diffi- culty in reaching the opposite shore by midnight. We should not indeed have been displeased had this watery tract extended much farther ; since we found it a very laborious task to get over the high craggy ridge of land that intervened between it and Too-nood- leed bay, which was now bare of snow. In this bay, to compensate for that difficulty, the travelling was among the easiest that we had found. The water, which had here also overflowed the surface, had dissolved the snow, and afterwards escaped through the fissures beneath, which had been produced by the rise and fall of the tide. We found therefore a smooth plain of polished ice ; and on this we proceeded with great expedition. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. SOS not without wishing that more or all of the territory which we had passed, both outwards and on our return, had been of the same character. The river Ang-ma-look-took now appeared much more extensive than I had formerly supposed it to be; and, from the number of landmarks near it, together with similarly numerous cc.cMs on its banks, I concluded that it was a fishing station of considerable im- portance to the natives. {June 12) At eight in the evening of the twelfth we halted, in latitude 69" 48' 10", and longitude 92° 25' 9", on a small rocky islet, mi'.ch fatigued, and chiefly by the labour of wading. Here we found in flower, the Saxifraga oppositi folia; being the first that we had seen for this spring ; though we afterwards found that it had appeared much earlier in the vicinity of the ship. It was near midnight before we again got into motion ; at first finding the way extremely rough, from the intermixture of hum- mocks of ice and deep pools half frozen, but proceeding with much more ease after reaching the mainland, while feeling additional energy and strength as we diminished our distance from the ship. It was at seven in the morning {June 13) when we came in sight of her; when! issued the last remaining dram to the party, and, hoisting our flag, we arrived on board at eight, all in good health, though much reduced in appearance. CHAPTER XXX. CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL— SUMMARY OF THE MONTH. (/wwel4, 1830) A strong westerly breeze made the weather cold, and the thermometer fell to 33°, with showers of snow. It did not prevent our work from going en, neither on this nor the following day {June 15), when it fell in much greater abundance. It only remained on the ice, however; on the land it soon melted. On the next {June 16) it was much the same; and we began there- ^1 i« !*, mm^\ W: 306 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY \m tmf 4 I'M, fore to expect a later summer than we had at first anticipated, since no visible alteration had taken place in the ice for some days. The thermometer during these latter days was rather under the freezing point at night, and the highest heat of the day, being on the fifteenth, was 50". (June 17) On the seventeenth the weather looked better and more settled, but it was not warm. Two natives came, bringing a couple of seals : a very welcome supply, with the large pack of dogs that we had to feed. They had been successful at the Comp- troller's islands. After rewarding them in the usual manner, I presented Ikmallik with a sovereign to wear round his neck, as being the picture of our great chief; desiring that he would preserve it, and show it to any European he might hereafter see. It was not likely to be spent, whatever else might happen ; but if it was too valuable a gift intrinsically, for one who was as ignorant of its uses as incapable of applying them to a purpose, he would have been greatly astonished could he have exchanged it for its English value in timber and iron, in fish-hooks, axes, knives, and needles. Nor must I forget that the two guides took leave of us, with much gra- titude for the presents they received and the kindness which they had experienced; hoping soon to see us again. We learned from Ikmallik, that all the rest had gone to the southward, except his own family and another, which were to remain some time in Comptroller's islands. He gave us the native names of the birds which had been shot; these being mimics of the cries of the several animals; and they all departed under a promise to see us again. {June 18) The weather was fine, but it froze both in the morning and the evening. The work went on, and the boats were cleared of snow. Some men now complained of rheumatism, and were relieved by the steam bath. {June 19) The Saturday began cold; and, in the course of the day, it rained heavily. Fortunately, the caulking of the deck had been finished, so that it did not interfere with the comfort of the men below. {June 20) The weather seemed to have taken a sudden turn on Sunday ; the rain having ceased in the night, and the air being mild and serene, while the thermometer rose, in the middle of the day, to 62", being at 60° for more than seven hours. Much of the snow was consequently disappearing, and the torrents again running down the hills. After church, the men having been sent to their TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 307 walk on shore, brought back a fine specimen of the great northern diver, and reported that they had seen many hares and much wild fowl. Some insects were also collected, and much of the ice was broken up round the ship. {June 21) Monday was misty, with small rain; the thaw con- tinuing, though it was less warm. A diver was again shot, together with a king and a queen duck. Preparations were made for a tra- velling party to trace the line of coast to the south-east- ward, and the men were employed within the ship. On the next day (J?/,ne 22), the weather was foggy till the evening, under a north-east wind ; when it became clear. The larboard leeboard was fixed, and the preparations for the travelling party completed, should the weather permit of moving on the following day. (June 23) It proved fine. The sledge and the skin boat were got ready, and the provisions stowed away in them after breakfast. The chief mate, with ten men, went off to draw it ten miles in advance, returning at eight in the evening. At nine, Commander Ross and four men left the ship, with the dogs : with the intention of pro- ceeding as soon as they had reached the deposited sledge. The returned party had killed some ducks, and seen reindeer. These animals had been gradually passing in increased numbers ; since we had latterly seen many, though, for so long a time, we had found nothing but their tracks. {June 24) The morning of the twenty-fourth was fine, but there were rain and snow about noon, continuing till midnight : it was not, certainly, a midsummer day in effect, whatever it might be in the calendar; and even if the usages of St. John's day had pene- trated to these lands, there was as little temptation to light bonfires as there was an utter dearth of materials for constructing them. In consequence, however, of the thaw, a considerable quantity of water flowed from the decks into the hold, being produced from the snow which still remained on the sides of the ship ; and this we were obliged to drive out by the forcing pump, as the others were not yet clear of ice. The surgeon, who had escorted the party, returned early in the morning {June 25) with a brent goose; and the first swan of the season was seen. At this time flights of ducks began to pass, in considerable numbers. The snow still fell, occasionally, though it was mild ; and the day ended in a fine evening. The men were employed in cutting the ice • -.f 808 SECOI^n VOVAGt Ot DISCOVERY »lf 1i. ii on the larboard side of the ship, to allow her to right herself; in consequence of which, she rose fourteen inches. The thermometer at night was 34°. On the Saturday {June 26), at noon, it wa8 62»; such were the extremes of day and night in this climate, and at midsummer ; as, to confirm this, it fell again to the freezing point at night. It is the alternate reign of the sun and of the accumu- lated ice. Whatever the former effects, cannot last, and it ceases as soon as the great source of heat becomes depressed in its career. I look an opportunity of setting the net where a stream entered the nearest lake, but caught no lish ; we did not even see any. An egg of a goose was found; proving that they breed here; and many of these birds were seen, while one was killed. The ship was, at length, nearly upright. {June 27) Nothing worthy of note occurred on Sunday. The men, however, were not forl)idden to shoot, in their usual walk after the' service of this day ; and their sport brought us five ducks and a diver. {June 28) It was snowy, and became so far cold, that the night temperature sank to the freezing point : in the course of the day we finished our preparations for the projected journey of the following. {June 29) In the morning, the snow threatened interruption : but. clearing at noon, a party of seven men went off in advance, with the sledge, a boat, and our provisions and packages : the supply being for six days, and the place of their halt the north-west inlet. At seven, I followed, with the surgeon and three men, and found one of the party returning with a report that the sledge had been broken. He had been sent back for a new one, attended by three men and a dog ; they had not succeeded in reaching farther than six miles, being a mile short of the northern huts, which formed the appointed spot. But this did not prevent our proceeding : our principal object being to catch fish, for which we had provided our- selves with the necessary materials. {June 30) To complete the journal of this month, I need only say that it snowed on the last day, with the same low temperature at night, and a fresh breeze : and I may therefore give the usual summary, that I may not interrupt the account of our journey. It is scarcely needful to say, that it had been a very unfavourable month to our prospects of proceeding at an early period in the ship. At Port Bowen, two hundred miles farther north, there had been '< ' I TO TU£ ARCTIC REGIONS. 309 rain as early as the seventh of the month ; while it had not ap- peared here till the nineteenth, and was followed, moreover, by frost and snow, so as to throw back every thing to the same condi- tion as in the earlier days of Jnne. In many plat «>s, indeed, the ice had become mnch thinner; bnt it was still very thick and compact. The weather had however been favourable for the exploring parties. Commander Ross had not been at all interrupted in his travelling, and his reports were favourable : while, among other things, the limits of our future endeavours were much narrowed by the result of this expedition. Our intercourse with the natives had much decreased, in conse- quence of their removal ; but, whenever it occurred, we were on terms of greater confidence than ever. They had been unsuccessful in hunting, and had therefore been unable to bring us any sup- plies; but whenever they were in want, and we could furnish them with food, we did so ; receiving in return every mark of gratitude and thankfulness. In reality, with exception of the adventure consequent on the boy's death, in which their mistake was after- wards fully rectified and atoned for, and excepting also some suffi- ciently pardonable and not very serious pilfering, we found every rea^n to be pleased with the character and conduct of this tribe, not only to us, but towards each other. I have given several instances of their kindness, in their dragging the helpless on sledges, and the care of their children ; and if they seemed an affectionate and good- tempered people, so did they appear to live together in perfect harmony, and to be free of selfishness, even on the subject of that great article, food, which constitutes the whole, it may almost be said, of a savage's enjoyments. 1 had no reason to suppose that I had prematurely formed this favourable opinion, though it is so much at variance with what has been reported 'of other tribes of the same people. It remained for time to determine what the exact truth was. The alterations and fittings in the ship had made so much pro- gress, that it was plain we should be ready long before it could serve any purpose. Though the health of the crew was generally good, three or four continued to show such a proneness to scurvy, that we were obliged to regulate their diet and treatment accordingly. They had been much harassed and fatigued during this period, but bore their toils cheerfully. i ■ { u*. '\'%:, I'M' if}*'. «• 310 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The oltHcrvntions and aurvpys had l>een goinR on, includini^ many on the dip and variation of the needle. The highest tem- perature of the month had been 62" plus, and the lowest 26 : the mean was 36" 76' : I need noi repeat the comparisons with those of the other expeditions in the same month. Our sport was but indifferent : yet some good specimens of animals were procured. The perpetual hunting of the natives seemed to prevent the deer, together with the animals of prey which followed on their traces, from resting for any time in this neighbourhood ; while the same cause, doubtless, drove the musk oxen, and possibly also the hares, from this vicinity, to places where they could find greater security in the solitude of these deserts. CHAPTER XXXI. AK EXPEDITION TO FISH FOR THE SUPPLY OF FISH FOR THE CREW UNDERTAKEN BY MYSELF AND PARTY— NARRATIVE AND RETUR>. iNm,. ( Jwwe29, 1850) Having proceeded towards the place where the sledge had been appointed, we came suddenly on two large while bears, before we had reached the end of the lake ; but as our guns were loaded with small shot only, we were compelled to avoid them. It is not a safe animal to provoke unarmed. We met, after this, the men returning with the broken sledge, and afterwards arrived at the boat where the ammunition and fishing tackle had been deposited. We then proceeded over the ice, which was very full of cracks and holes. {June 30) Early in the morning, we reached the point forming the entrance of the inlet, which we believed to be the estuary of the river in which we had proposed to fish ; but were obliged to pitch the tent, as it began to snow heavily, with a strong northerly gale. Being in a sheltered spot, we were, however, enabled to cook our dinners and go to rest. We had killed two ducks and a plover. TO THE ARCTIC REGIO^IS. an and soon some reindrer. The land at this place was nipped, clear of snow, and divested of all veijetalion. We found the ice, in many places, dangerously thin, independently of many larpe holes and wide cracks. After dinner, at five in the evenino;, we proceeded up the inlet, which turned to the north-east ; travelling over the ice for five miles, till it divided into two branches ; one leading to the north- west, and the other north-north-east. We followed the latter a mile, and arrived at its termination. Here we ascended a high mountain, where we saw that the north-west branch took a north- easterly direction, as if it was about to join the great inlet to the northward, from which its visible end could not be more than a mile distant. We saw no river of any importance, though we had expected one: there was only a small lake; but we found on its margin some rem'iins of snow huts. On its banks, the game, such as it was, pro' 3d somewhat abundant for a country so barren in this respect as it geueraUy had been found, and our sporting produced us some duck:i and (lulls, all equally acceptable to (hose whose variety of fuod wa , for th mosl part very disagreeably confined. The hill bounding the othr niet was, like those we had ascended, nigged and bare, and th* re was a narrow channel of water along its shore, extend' :ig dl the way -ip, excepting where two points projected. Manj showers of rain fell d/ring this walk, and the weather at length became so thick and niisiy, that all farther view of the interior land vvas unattainable. {July 1 ) We returned about two in the morning, for the pur- pose of resting tili six, during which time it blew a gale from the northward. After this, 1 set off, with the surgeon and one man, to examine the coast to the west, in search of a river ; and passing along the shore, came to an island in the south of the inlet, and offc.'wards, to two points, the bays near which received nothing larger:!- ii a small rivulet. We then passed two more points on the right, and three islets on the left; finally arrivin?? at the arm of the sea and that mouth of a river which wer^ formerly examined hy Commander Ross. Finding it still frozen, we proceeded to the north shore, ascending the rising ground as we went on ; and ai length, at the distance of three miles, meeting two small lakes. Thence I ascended a mile, leaving my companions, lest 1 should i?r '»;."'• I r'^f k'i? '» X I * ■ !>»•■ |!ifi, m<' 312 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fatigue them ; and, crossing a lake, proceeded to the summit of the highest mountain. Hence I saw the termination of the northern branch of the inlet which I had observed yesterday, and beyond it a neck of land dividing it from the one farther to the northward, which was also distinctly seen, about seven miles distant. I returned after two hours, and, joining my companions, we arrived at our tent. While resting near it, a man was perceived crossing the bay, on which we fired a shot, to attract his attention. He seemed at first alarmed, but at last stood still to look at us, when the surgeon went to meet him, throwing away his gun, as the signal of friendship. On this he also threw away his bow and arrows and spear, when, approaching with the usual salutation, he was discovered to be our friend Awack. I then persuaded him to accompany us to our tent; giving him the gun to carry, in hopes of thus better establishing confidence among us. We had walked thirteen hours, and were glad to find a dinner, in which we made our friend partake. He informed us that his uncle Ikmallik's party were at a river that entered the bay about ten miles off: and thither we determined to go, to his great satisfaction. Our tent and baggage were immediately packed on the sledge with the little boat and the net, and we set off with fresh spirit, passing several islands and points, till we came to one of those alluvial mounds which I formerly described ; on rounding which, we saw the river, and the huts of the natives about a mile away on the north bank. At our guide's desire, we announced our approach by firing a gun, which produced a general acclamation. Leaving the sledge behind, I was soon at the village, and was received with open arms by our old friend IkmsUik. He informed us that the season for fishing in the river was ended, and that they were about to set off for the lakes ; but that they would stay another day, if we would remain with them. Our sledge then arriving, we erected our tent, and they began to replace theirs, which had been taken down; the number of families being four. They were highly delighted when I displayed the flag above Ikmallik's tent instead of our own. We were then presented with fish, including two fine salmon, which we proceeded to dress in our cooking apparatus : a process that excited great attention, from the quickness with which it boiled one of these fishes and fried the other. '.^Hi. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 313 They had proposed to dine with lis, and of course we couhl not refuse; though perplexed to know how to cook for so large a party, with our limited kitchen. The whole twelve were, however, in- vited into the tent; and, with our own party of five, it was more than sufficiently filled. We were soon relieved from all anxiety about cookery, finding that they preferred their fish raw. Our two dinners, therefore, made a parallel progress : in time, however, not in quantity: since, while we found that one salmon, and half of another, was more than enough for all of us English, these vora- cious animals had devoured two each. At this rate of feeding, it is not wonderful that their whole time is occupied in procuring food : ciich man had eaten fourteen pounds of this raw salmon, and it was probably but a luncheon after all, or a superfluous meal for the sake of our society. Nor is it wonderful that they so often suffer from famine: under a more economical division of their food, with a little consideration for to morrow, the same district might main- tain double the number, and with scarcely the hazard of want. The glutton bear, scandalized as it may be by its name, might even Ite deemed a creature of moderate appetite in the comparison : with their human reason in addition, these people, could they always command the means, would doubtless outrival a glutton and a boa constrictor together. Whether Captain Cochrane's extravagant accounts be true or not, the voracity of the northern savages, on both continents, is sufficiently known. But it is a question that has uot been exa- mined as it ought ; and my medical knowledge is far too small to allow me to say much on a subject on which I cannot find that either preceding travellers or physicians have written anything of import- ance. These northern stomachs have been supposed especially powerful ; but the Boschman of southern Africa has a digestion of the same energy, and can equally bear the alternatives of gross excess and want. It may be true also, to a certain extent at least, that the severity of these climates demands more abundant food than one more temperate, and that, in particular, oily food is useful, as 1 had occasion formerly to remark. But the inhabitants of the alpine regions of southern Europe demand no such extravagance of food, nor are even the people of Lapland and the northern extremity of Norway conspicuous for such eating; as is not less true of the Icelanders. In Norway, indeed, the peasant is very much limited !i fj^- ■mi \ k 16. '^^ 1 m li 314 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY to milk, ami to bread of the very worst quality : yet, in neither of these cases, do we find the people less strong, or less capable of labour, while equal, at least, to the Esquimaux tribes in longevity and in general health. If this extraordinary consumption of food, and that of the most nutritious kind, is therefore not necessary, under this comparison w ith people most nearly corresponding in climate, the contrast is far more remarkable when we compare them with vm;; of the people in the hotter parts of the earth. The Arab, on one small allowance of barley meal in the day, is more enduring of fatigue than an Esquimaux, who perhaps eats twenty pounds of flesh and oil ; while he is also stronger and more active. Other comparisons arc easily made by any one acquainted with the geographical his- tory of man. It is for physicians to explain these accommodalinu powers of the human stomach and constitution ; but they should also account for the disposal of that which cannot fail to be su- perfluous : we were all as well fed on a pound of salmon a day as these people on twenty. Be that explained as it may, this vast power of digestion nubl be the result of practice and habit; while, unfortunately, the habil being once established, the consequence of a more restricted diet is suffering and weakness, or starv^ition. That is fully proved by tin- appetites of the Canadian boatmen. The Esquimaux is an animal of prey, with no other enjoyment than eating ; and, guided by no principle and no reason, he devours as long as he can, and all (hat he can procure, like the vulture and the tiger. The half savafje r.anadian equally eats all that he can obtain, under the same impulses ; yet he gains nothing in strength or power of endurance by it; except that when the habit has once become established, he cannot endure privation at the first trial, nor without such per- severance in moderation as may once more reduce the condition of his stomach and constitution to a more natural state. Yet, wilh six pounds of solid meat in the day, or eight pounds of fish, wliicli form his regulated allowance, he is not worth more, in point of exertion, than the Englishman, after a little practice in that labour, who is amply fed with one pound of the former, and a propor- tional quantity of the other. To return from these remarks, we were not a little amused wilh the fasbionalde usages of the table here. The licail and backbone TO THE ARCTIC REGIOJiS. 315 l»(ini] taken off from two fish, they were hamkd to Ikmallik and Tullahin, the seniors, who slit the body longitudinally into two equal parts, dividing eaeh of those afterwards into two more. They were then rolled np into cylinders of two inehes in diameter, when putting one end into the month as far as possible, it was cut off by the knife so close as to endanger the end of the nose ; the party then handing the remainder to his neighbour. In this way lliey proceeded till the whole stock of fish was eonsumed. One of them, afterwards eating the scraps on one of our plates, where there chanced to be some lemon-juice, made wry faces, to the jyreat amusement and laughter of the rest. 3Ian seems a laup,hing .inimal, as he has been termed, even where he approaches as nearly as he can to his inferiors of four legs. Wc proceeded, after this, to try our drag net, though they ,!ssured us that we should take no fish ; promising, nevertheless, ihal if we caught none, we should partake of their store. Their prophecy was correct ; for, in three casts, we took but half a dozen small fish called Kanayoke, while the last brought only a large stone. This produced great laughter ; but if it did not give them a good opinion of our dexterity in this art, so it had the ad- vantage of preventing them from coveting our net. But the fame we might have lost in fishing, was compensated by our shooting, on the wing, a gull and a wild goose ; and, by presenting them \Ni(h these and some other birds that we had shot, our favour went (111 increasing. After twenty-five hours of wakefulness and labour, it was, however, nectssary that these natives at least should sleep, and I therefore sent them all to their beds, appointing a meeting when the sun should be in the south. (.full/ 2) I accordingly went with Ikmallik to one of the pits where they keep their fish, frozen; and seeing that it probably ( ontained not less than forty salmon, offered him a large knife for Ihe whole, which was readily accepted. lie had always been the most contented of these dealers, while the others looked up to him for example ; so that the other two men offered me their stores at the same price. Had 1 known the contents of the whole, I could not have ventured to offer such a price ; as I found two hundred and twenty fish, averaging five pounds each, and there- fore producing a ton weight of salmon ; of which the purchase money was thus no more than seven shillings and sixpence. ^ ^i ■hit rA : I ■;)■ 318 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY II m trntion of selling it to us the next year. I might iinlccd have procured a hundred and thirty more, but they were not so tine, noi could we contrive to take them away. I ought also to mention tli.ii we bought from them three wolf whelps as specimens. (Jufy 1 ) The proceedings on board during our absence 1i;m1 been marked by little variety. Some of the men had been lamed in their expeditions, and required management in their allotted work. The thermometer at midnight was 37". On the second of July ii did not vary, and the men were recovering. The third of July was the day of the return of Commander Ross's parly and my own. being foggy in the morning, with snow and rain. In the evening i detached a party to bring home the fish that had been left bdiinil. CHAPTER X\XII. JOl.Rn.\L OF THE MO^TII OF JULY~.SII3IM-VRY OF THE MO>'TH TKA>'S.VCT10NS DUR1!SG AUGUST, A^D ITS SUMMARY'. (Ju/i/ 1, 1830) On Sunday, after church service, the men who had been sent for the salmon returned : and part of Monday (Jw/^ o) was occupied in cleaning them and packing them in the tanks, with ice. The snow had nearly left the land; and, this night, the noc- turnal temperature rose to 48". There was little to note on tlh' two subsequent days (July G, 7) : the necessary work for fitting onl the ship was going on. The temperature fell, however, so much on the seventh that it froze hard. The men were now ordercti to receive three pounds of the fresh fish every other day. {JulyS) It was less cold, yet at midnight the thermometer \v;is but 37". On the following day {July 9), it rained hard for twelve hours, and the effect on the remaining snow was considerable. A native arrived with an ofl^er of more fish, which we agreed (o purchase when brought, and we undertook to send for it while lie pitched his tent near us, with his family. In taking a walk to day {July iO), I found the ice not more than a fool thick in many w'*\ TO THE AUCTIC REGIONS. 3llt places, and so hrillle, Ihnt our weight ln'okc lliroiigh it. (Mir j)rojecle(l canal had melted away two feet, in (h'plh ol'iee. al the surface. Some ducks and other hirds were kiUed. {July II) In the course of this Sunday oin* party return<'d with the fish for wliichlhey had i»een sent. It was foggy in the morning, and some rain came on at night, lasting till the following day {July 12). Thus it continued on the thirteenth of July ; so that the snow on the land was almost entirely dissolved, and the ice covere 320 SECOIVD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY >.% '. W^ '\' f {Ju/i/ 23, 24), bringing us to the end of the week ; but with as link- variety of occurrence as during the preceding. We had work, indeed, to employ us, but it was nevertheless dull. We were pri- soners now, equally, by land and water; for the former was unfii for travelling, in its present condition, and as to clear water at sea. there was, as yet, none. Even our sporting was impracticable, except at midnight; such was the annoyance from the mosquitoes ; (July 215) A south wind drove some of the ice to the northward, but, still, we saw no clear sea from the top of the highest hill : the whole visible surface was a compact mass of ice. Being Sunday, no work was done. But on Monday (July 26), the Krusenstern was cleared out, and launched off the ice to the beach, that she might be repaired and caulked ; and as the ice was now in motion around us, it became necessary to moor to the rocks, on each side. This was a day of hard rain for the most part. (July's!) The rain continued, with a fresh breeze and a lower temperature, by which we got rid of the mosquitoes for a time. The Krusenstern's and other work went on, on this and the follow- ing day [July 28), part of which was expended in reshipping such parts of the engine as might be co^ vertible to the general uses of the ship. Among these was the main shaft : the cylinders were to be cut up for the purpose of examining their materials. But as the boilers and their frames could be of no use, and were not worth the transport, in any state, they were left on shore ; with the satisfac- tory reflection, at least, that they would prove a valuable iron mine for our friends the Esquimaux. (July 29) Some trout had been observed in the lake yesterday ; but being late in going with the boat and the net, we had only one haul, and took but four. This day we set out again, and had the luck to take above a hundred, averaging a pound each. It was the best sport that we had had for some time, while it also furnished two days' full allowance to the crew. On the next (July 30), there were only seven taken. Some rain fell in the evening, and also on the following morning. (July 31 ) This day, more than a hundred trout were taken by the net and the rod ; amounting to upwards ol' seventy pounds. The various works had been going on as usual ; and Saturday night brought them to a close for the week, bringinjj with it also, the end of the month of July. Although it had bwen a warmer and a better one than June, il TO THE ARCTIC REGlOiNiJ. 321 liait nut conipensatud for the lateness of the season in the two pie- coding ones. The first of August was arrived, and we had not yei seen any clear sea, nor had any of the ice on it appeared to move. Sliil it was probahlc that the first southerly gale would break it up, could that last but for forty-eight hours : so that we might still feed on hope. The month had been uniform, and therefore comparatively dull to us ; but we had not at least been wearied for want of occupation. The ship had been completely refitted; and the new painting, while useful, had also improved her appearance. She was so little leaky now, as not to make more than five or six inches of water in the twenty-four hours. Lee boards had been applied to her. and we trusted that these would improve her sailing : of the disposal o( the several parts of the rejected engine, 1 have just spoken. The health of the men had so far improved, on their amended diet, that even the suspicious ones were now quite well. This greal supply of fish was a matter of congratulation, and somewhat ba- lanced our other disappointments. They who, in reading this Journal, may read of meat and eating, must add something to the common ideas usually associated in their minds with this subject. At home, a good or a bad dinner is but a matter of content or the reverse; and the first salmon of the season no more than a luxury. The bad dinner of yesterday will also be compensated by a better one to morrow ; and he who cannot get salmon will easily find an equivalent. But, to us, good tliet or bad, salt provisions or fresh, sufficed to turn the scale between activity and weakness, health and sickness, and, as well might happen, as used to happen but too often in former days, between life and death. And the first salmon of the summer were a medicine which all the drugs in the ship could not replace: while, though they had done no more than diminish the wearisomeness which men feel from being confined to the eternal sameness of a ship's provisions, they would have had a value to us. greater than all the salmon of the Thames to those who can provide themselves with sucfh dainties. Our communications with the natives had continued to confirm our good opinion of them : while, if we had attained to more knowledge of their peculiarities, and had witnessed many things repugnant to our habits and feelings, I must reserve these for future remarks. iO,, ' f * 5 ■% .".82 SECO?II) VOYXGK OK DISCOVERS |i';t iili: lit llavinu froquenlly spoken of Ihe Kniscnslern. I liavo now to observe, lliat when Ihe iec had overflowed it had sunk her, carryhn; luM' with it to the holtom. On the thaw she was at hist reheved and brought on shore; but she had sustained more dama{;e from Ihe pressure than wc had suspected. iManyofher timbers wer(> l)rokcn ; but these and all oilier defects had been at last repaired, and she was now in a better co.Khlion for towinu than she had originally been. The other boats had also been put in order. The collection of natural history had been increased , and the sporting bad on the whole been successful. In addition to our liv- ing foxes, wo had lamed a hare so as to slay in the cabin with us. Not many observations had been made Ibis month, as all travel- ling by land was impracticable. It was lime, too, for Irdiinp, down and embarking our observatory ; while we had now but eight weeks before us of that short summer which, under our purposes, was in reality the only one ; after which we should again be compelled to settle ourselves for another winter of ten months. Respecting the temperature , it remains to add , that the biglies! was 70° pins, and the lowest ^"2" plus, the mean for .hily havini; been 11" 57' plus. {August \) After church, wc found that a strong norlherly l>rceze had at length put the ice in motion to the eastward ; and it now assumed the appearance of hummocks interspersed w ith pools of water, i he party on shore afterwards repoited that it had bro- ken up in the north bay. The thermometer was at 59" at midnight. On the next [/iui/usl ^1). nothing seemed wanting but a south wind to disperse the brukm ice : the cfFcct of the northerly ones was to pack it logeth<'r, loose as it was. About seventy trout were taken in the net : and, on the following day {August o)^ the fishery was nearly as successful. The weather continued very fine. {August \) It was still fine weather, but the fishery failed; excepting that we took the largest trout that we had yet seen; weigh- ing three pounds and a half. The evening of the fifth of Au^;ust produced a smart shower of rain : but things settled back to llie .same stale on the following day {August Q), when a still larger trout, weighing nearly five pounds, was taken, with about twenty others of the ordinary size. The Krusenstern was launched ami brought alon;^side. j^.'... \^^'4 To Tilt Allelic KhCilOJSS. .31' 3 {Auffu.ii 7) Al five in llie a Pier noon, a bicc/r spranjj up and Mt'vv fresh from the sonlli-woslwartl for Icn hours. This, srliing ihc ice in motion, carried away one of our hawsers, and the shiji was forced aj^ainsl the rocks near her; luil was soon jjol olf a(|ani. nnd secured, vvilhout any damage. This was a sorl of rilurn of our labours of llie preceding aulufnn, but of a very dilferenl n.tlure. as we now hoped ; since it was Ihe probabU' eommeneement of our nberalion, as the olher was of our imprisonmenl. This movini; ice. liowever. soon stopped near the shore: farther out, it conlirnied in motion to the northward till two in the afternoon, when the tide carried it back, haviiij; now. al this sjjriuj;. a rise af live feet ant! a half. {.'iufjustVt) It was a foggy and rainy day. with variable wnids. The men, in lljcir walk after church, reported thai there was mueli dear water in the large bay, but thai there was a ridge between I'liry and Hecia islands, and the point, ihe weather dilfered little on llie following day {August 9), and on the tenth of .\u.;usl Ihe rain was much heavier. It served to prevent all fishing, nor had (lur success been very great on the preceding ones. The wind was lo the north-westward, and became very strong, so as to pack the ice as close as possible. Many seals were seen, and some water ta- ken on board. ( Aurjust 11) The weather improved : some fish were taken ; and a southerly wind caused Ihe ice to move, lly the next day ( Awfust 1 :i;. under the same breeze, much more cleared away, so that an extent of two miles of clear water was seen to the northward. A good (leal was, however, afterwards brought back by the wind shifting; lo the north : nor indeed would the ti«le have admitted of making an attempt to get out. for many days now, the midnight tempe- rature had been about 58". {August 13) The observatory was taken on board : the day being calm, and no change in the ice. Nor was there any on the fourteenth. The fishermen were now supplying us with enough for our daily consumption. It was a memorable day. inasmuch as. it was the anniversary of our first visit to Fury Beach. The ther- mometer fell to 34" at night. There was reason, indeed, why the night should become colder, as the sun was now situated ; but there was less subsidence by much, than when it had been far higher, because the grpund was then all covered with snow . and was now 71 ,Jk| l?5 ,' I;' Hi .')24 SECOl^D YOYAGE Of DISCOVERY fi\* '■■'r. ricar ; thus rclairiini; some uf llie beat which it had acquired during the day. (August \\S) The inurnlni; of Sunday had u favourable aspect, as a westerly breeze had luoved the ice from the coast ; but it soon changed to the north-east, and all became as it had been before. The first ;ti», ;.; •' w had yet seen for the summer, Capella, was vi- sible atmic: .ct. Th" nudni|;hl temi)erature fell to 6". {August >u) After a tranquil morninj; of westerly airs, the wind, towards evening, became a strong breeze from the south-west; but as the tide was very low, and the ice aground, there was no motion with us, though there was some in the offing. The following day [August 17) was calm and mild, and there was no change in Hk; ice. The midnight temperature rose again to 34". Nor was there anything worth noticing on the eighteenth of August. Our success in fishing, on all these days, was very small ; and we had to regret the loss of one of our tame foxes, after having been one of the fa- mily for six months. The vacancy of the sea, it is well known, makes even the flight of a gull or the rising of a porpoise an import- ant event. Whether the vacuum of wide-spread ice and snow, when the ship is itself a prisoner, instead of being only a prison, be not much worse, they must decide who have experienced both : but we shall probably be excused for considering the death of this unlucky fox as among the important occurrences of our present life. {August 19) A fine day, with a northerly breeze, was but a con- tinuation of this now sleepy uniformity : our ship could do nothing; and we, little. The capture of some fish, and the occurrence of rain at night, scarcely varied the sameness of the following day {August 20). The twenty-first of August closed another week : and thus did the third week find us where we had been since May in prospect, since September in place, 'a he rise of the tide, during these past days, had vacillated about the standard of six feet; having once been at more than seven, and being now five. The ice was stdl close, to the northward, under a fresh breeze. It was the same on Sunday {August 22); though the afternoon was warmer than it had been for a considerable time. There was an open lane of water seen from the shore, lying along the land to the westward of the farthest visible point north. On Monday {Au- gust 25) there was no change : but in the night the wind increased to a fresh gale from the northern quarter, and, at daylight next day il.. 10 TUE ARCTIC REGIO.IS. SM {August il), lilt* ice was seen in rapid motion to the soiilliward, and packini; into Ihc bolloni of llic buy. The inner part of the harbour was thus cleared, as the coast was, for about two miles (o the south- ward; but afterwards, a pack of the ice streamed in, and Hlled all except the place win r'^ we lay, that beinj defended by the (jrouud- ing; of some heavy masses outside. {Augufit ^S) The wind contiiuiing to blow fresh from the north- eastward, the ice continued to accumulate so on us, that a very small space w as left clear. 11 was more moderate in the morning (August i26), with rain; but there was otherwise no change. Both the subsequent days (./«^w*/ li7, 28), were equally free of any events worth noticing, beyond some indifferent success in Hshing and shooting, including the taking of a seal. Another week was gone; and the night thermometer had little changed, varying between lO" and 38". (August 29) Sunday promised something new; the wind be- coming a gale from the norlh-weslward. Thus the ice began to move with considerable rapidity, and the harbour was once more cleared. We tried to console ourselves by recollecting, that on I he same day last year, the ground was covered with snow, and the temperature ten degrees lower. {August 30) The ice continued moving to the southward till four o'clock, when il stopped, and remained stationary the w hole day On the following ( August Zl ), there was no change in the weather till evening, when it rained from the westward, with a fresh breeze. We made ready for hauling the ship out into a pool to the northward of us, that we might be more in the way of extricating ourselves when the ice should fairly open. And with this was summed up the month of August. The end of that month also left us eleven months fixed to one spot. Whatever value voyages of discovery may have in these countries, they are certainly purchased at a high price in time, though there were nothing else. We might have circumnavigated the globe in the same period: and I imagine no one was very san- guine about future north-west passages, even should we contrive to make one ourselves. That this was a month of daily and hourly anxiety, of hopes and fears, promise, and non-performance, 1 need not say; while no record of feelings could give a picture of them. There were but ''I II «'i .< .■1-* 330 SECOUD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY -H. ^ IT* y. 1 four weeks of this never assured summer lo come; and, really, llio hope of its speetly arrival washy no means great. On many ;)abt days we had more than hoi)ed. we had almost expected, that the next day, or the following, or some other not far distant, wmiM release us ; and they who reflected most, were perhaps the least easy under this constantly recurring disappointment. It was my business, at any rate, to keep up the hopes of the men, and, where that might be diiTlcult, to find them occupations to prevent them from thinking too much of the future. In this, the permission to shoot and fish gave much aid ; while the variety of diet this procured them was also advantageous. Of their health, indeed, there was nt> re.'ison to complain. The commen<*iug temperature of this month was promising; hiil the northerly winds of the latter portion were extremely adverse, since it was the effect of these to pack the i(;e upon us as fast as it broke up. One conclusion seemed obvious, namely, that the winter in that (piarler had been partieularly severe, though we had once thought otherwise, when obs -rving how often the temperature rose when the wind blew from this point of the compass. This was an unfavourable view of things: but there was no remedy. I ne((i only add, that the highest and lowest degrees at which the tliei- mometer stood were u8" and 33" plus, and that the mean of ihr month was 40" 87' plus. Kvery thing about the ship, boats and all, had been entire!;, refitted and madj ready for sea ; and she had never been so trinj, neat, clean, and comfortable. We had obtained abundant room by the dismissal of the engine; and that was no small gain, lo com- pensate a loss, if that machinery can be esteemed a loss, whence wo had derived so little advantage and undergone so much inconve- nience and vexation. It was probable that the Escpiimaux would profit for a long time to come, by ihc cac/ic's of ^icssrs. Rrailhwailc and Kriekson. Having concluded, for the present, a long train of observations, it was very satisfactory to find how well the chronometers hail performed. No. !j71 of Parkinson and Krodsham had continued iii rate of plus 1. 1 seconds per day without variation. The season had been very favourable lo vegetation, and the col- lection of |)lants contained, as was believed, many new ones. .AfUr $0 long a lime of confinement lo a narrow and unvarying society. ««'•••• TO THE ARCTIC RKGIOMS. 32; really, Hip many ;)jst •I, that Hie 3111, wmjIiJ s I lie Jcasi 'I was my •11(1, wlicrc L'venl llic'iii mission lo s procured 're was no ilsinjj; |)iji y adverse, s fasl as it llie winter Iiad oneo a lure rose lis was an . 1 neey , to com- liencc wc inconve- i.v would ailliwailc rva lions. !ers h.fd inued ib the eol- i. After society. it was hiijhiy pleasing to find that Hie :;eneral harmony was un- altered. CHAPTER XXXUI. \V\KriNr, OUT, UNLOADING, \yH ri.\AL KSCAPE FROM OLU llVUBOl R — INEFFECTUAL MOVE3IENTS AMONG TUE ICE— BECOME FIXED n THE ATTEMTT TO FIND A >EW IIAI\DOUR FOR THE WIATEK Sr.MMAR\ OF ,i)!'l>TEMliKR. {Scpf. 1, 1830) Tliis monlli set in with i^reat severity ; the llier- inomcler was at the freeziui; point, sinking finally to iJO", and there was a viol'Ut storm of snow, whieh covered the hills for the first lime this season: while it was also the severest gale we had expe- rienced dnrinu the whole sumnier. !t varied between I he west and the north; and Ihoui'.h it eoiilinued to pack the loose ice, this could not move far, being soon slopped by the fixed mass at the bottom of the bay. Our own passage to the main was filled by two large icebergs. \St'j:t. 2) The same gale blew, and was very heavy about two o'clock, when there was an eclipse of the moon, invisible to us. The ice was driving to the southward with great rapidity, and pack- ing itself in immense masses. In the evening the wind diminished, and the snow which had fallen on tlie hills disappeared. {Sept. 3) It did not blow so strong, and the ice was at a stand ; hut it froze hard at midnight with the Ihermomcler at 29". The wea- ther bting fine next day {Scpf. 1), and expecting a high tide at two in the morning, we attempted to cross the bar between the island and the main; but before we could warp out it fell so much. Ihatwc remained aground in only fourteen inches of water. By this ac- cident, however, we profiled so as to examine the ship's bottom, and thus also repaired sevej-al small damages which she had re- c(!ived from the ice. Having also shored her up, we proceeded lo lighten her by discharging four tons of water, ami pulling ten tons i%T ^ 3S8 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY »■■! 'H , t !/',< of Other articles in the boats, that we might, if possible, float her off at the next tide ; laying out hawsers to warp her off when this should lake place. There were showers of snow in the day, and the night was equally cold. We had the misfortune of losing our best dog, which died. {Sept. ")) We were obliged to work to day. At two o'clock in the morning we attempted to heave the ship over the bar, but in vain. The wind had shifted to the southward, and the tide did not rise so high as before. It became necessary, therefore, to un- load the vessel, as the tides were now diminishing, while we could not run the risk of being neaped in this manner. A bridge was. in consequence, laid to the rocks, which were but eight yards from us, and we carried over it all our remaining stores and provisions, together with that iron-work of the engine which remained on board. In the evening, the wind came to the eastward with some snow, giving us hopes of a belter tide the next day. Three tree- nail holes were here discovered in the ship's bottom, in the search after a leak which had plagued us, and they were accordingly secured. [Sept. 6) A shift of the wind up towards the north produced such a tide as enabled us to heave off the bar very early in tlio morning. Yet the ice had so grounded, that we could not advance far enough to avoid grounding ourselves when the tide should fall, and did not thence dare to bring on board much of what had been landed. During the day every thing was covered with snow, which partially dissolved under an evening haze ; and at night it was clear and frosty. {Sept. 7) It blew a gale from the northward during the night. but the ice did not move. Towards morning we contrived to heave out, so as to get a fool more of water, which enabled us to pro- ceed with the reloading of the ship; and, after this, by aid of tlu; ice £.1 our bows, we gained another fool, thus advancing about ten feet in distance. This was a depth sufficient lo allow us to reload entirely ; but that caused us work enough for two days. The thermometer was 15» higher, and there was some snow. {Sept.S) The changes in the wind and weather were triflini;, end we proceeded with the reloading of our discharged stores : also cutting some ice at our bows, that we might have no obstruc- tion to our next attempt. The following day (S'tf/^^ 9) was without 4 '1 ■ !!i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 329 float her off this should J the night •• best do(;. o'clock in bar, but in e tide did ore, (0 un- t; we could (I'iuge was. y'ards from provisions, nained on with some Three tree- Ihe search ^•cordingly produced rly in the )l advance Je should what had 'ith snow, Jt night it he night. 1 to heave s to pro- lid of the ng about t>w US to ^0 days. w. ■ triflinjj, stores ; obstruc- wiibout change or interest, except that more ice was cut, and the ship hove a few feet ahead. Every thing, however, was got on board and stowed. The next day did not advance us even a foot. The lakes on shore had not yet frozen, though there was ice on the pools. {Sept. 11 ) The wind came to the southward, bMt was not sufti- cienl to move the heavy ice. The pool between the island and the main was covered with thin bay ice, having a very prognosticating evil aspect; and the temperature fell with the setting sun to 21". We still went on cntting the ice, and the ship was hove a little far- ther ahead. The cold weather seemed really coming on, as the thermometer by midnight was 18" ; and the shooting of ducks was now rather a vexation than otherwise, since we could see that lliey were returning to the southward. (Sept. 12 ) The changes of temperature to day were very unex- pected : the thermometer ranging from IG" to 41" between four in the morning and noon. The men who went on shore after church, found the water, nevertheless, completely covered with bay ice. There was some damp snow on Monday {Sept. 13), and. though the wind was southerly, it was light, and had no effect on the ice at sea. In the night tide, the ship was hove about ten feet ahead, and that which we had to cut through was not frozen to the union of the separate fragments. The next day {Sept. 11) was fine; but this was not favourable weather for us who were in want of a gale, and that gale, too, to be of our own choosing. The mid- day heat was the same. The sight of a hare that had been shot was by no means gratifying, for it had now acquired its winter dress. {Sept. 115) The wind having freshened in the night from the southward, the ice began to move north, about the time of high water^ and, after «laylight, it was very loose, and full of lanes and pools. The night tide allowed us to heave some space ahead, and the day one brought us into five fathoms water, though not two ships' length from our position of yesterday. \\ hat remained on shore, of ironwork, anchors, and other things, were now, therefore, got on board ; but that furnished us occupation for the whole day. \\i: were conseipiently ready to start by evening ; but the breeze died away, with the ice still drifting up and down before the tide, in the calm. {Sept. 10) That wind was of little service to day, being light !l '•*,.^ «s,.Sn 'x,' {' ty:m 3.10 StCOlSD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY iJ ■> nl^' .111(1 nnsUady. belwt't'n Ihe south and west; l)Ul us llic i::e near ns w.is bccoininjj slnck, Ihc ship was hove oiil two cables* length . lo take advantage of any opening that might occur. Some lanes ul water appeared in the evening, along the shore to the northward. The thermometer was 10" in the day, and 29" at midnight. It fell to 21)' before the following morning (.SVy?/. 17), and there was an aurora bore.dis. At daylight we eouUl see that (he ice had drifted off (he land, but there was still a complete ridge between the sliip and ,i lane of water which led to a point three miles to the northward. About two in the afternoon, however, it seemed to be breaking nj) ; when we immediately cast off. warped through the bay icu around us. ami, in half an hour, our ship was, at length, once more in clear water, and under sail. Under sail— we scarcely knew how we fell, or whether wc (piiie believed it. lie must be a seaman, to feel that the vessel which bounds beneath him, which listens to and obeys the smallest move- ment of his hand, which seems to move but under his will, is a thing of life, a mind conforming to his wishes ; not an inert body, the sport of wi.ids and waves. But what seaman couhl feel Ibis as we did, when this creature, which used to carry us buoyantly over the ocean, had been during an entire year immovable as the ice and the rocks around it, helpless, disobedient, dead. It seeincd to have revived again to a new life ; it once more obeyed us, did whatever wc desired ; and in addition to all, wc too were free. Il was the first burst of enjoyment on the recovery of our liberty ; Imt we were not long in finding, as other pursuers of other iii»erty have found, that il was a freedom which was to bring us no hapj)in(\s,s. Thus freed at last, we advanced about three miles ; but tht ii finding a ridge of ice, we were obliged to make fast near the j)oiiil w hich was at that distance to the north of us ; and. in a .sufficient!} commo(iiuus harbour between two icebergs, we passe«i tiie ni;;hl. >N e shot some grouse on shore, to })ass Ih; lime, and s:iw many seals. The thermometer cl midnight was 30". .SV7;/. 18) In the mean lime, the wind came round, unforlii- nalely, to the southward, ami, by morning, our passage was blocked rp; so that we were compelled to remain. In the offing, il w.is sweeping up and down before the tide ; and, in the evening, as tlie wind became northerly, il went away rapidly once more to the southward. There was much snow to day, and the land was en- ' 4, If saw mariv TO THE ARCTIC REGIO.^S. 33i tiit'Iy covcrcil. Four hares thai were shol did nol I'.iiich romforl us under this detention, however they niii^lil vary our dinners. (Sept. 19) A (jale had come on sudikniy last ni|fht. and, rontinuing till high water, this forenoon, as it served to raise that tide considerably, our bergs floated, but did not change iheir posi- tion so much as to destroy our har])our : while the arrival of a liirge floe protected us from a pressure that was now threat«!ning to 1)0 considerable. Kvery space was indeed filled by the ice : but as the wind ceased, it did nol fix, being kept in alternate motion by the tides. In the evening it was a liltle more slack; and there was nothing in this day to make us neglect the duties of Sunday. The thermometer was at '-IS" at midnight. (.SV';;^. 20) The \co opened so slightly under a westerly breeze, that it re.idered us no service; and. as we were frozen round by new ice, we were obliged to cut around the ship. Our detention was more perfectly assured the next day, by a soulh-easterly one in the morning {Sept. 21), bringing the ice in upon us. After many changes, it at last settled in the north-north-west, and blew a heavy pale. The ice being thus sel in rapid motion, came in contact with the bergs which j)rolecled us, and forced them and us together, onwards, till our stern was within twenty yards of the rocks. The Krusenslern was at the same time forced out of the water. It was fortunate thai the icebergs which covered us were not carried away, else we should have gone with them into the moving pack, or been driven on the rocks; each of them but hazardous positions, if not worse. The temperature fell to 18", and there was snow with this gale. {Sept. 22) ll continued on the next morning, yet the ice in the hay seemed partially cleared. But, after this, coming to blow even harder, we were worse blocked up than before, thoup.h (here was sill! a lane of water in the bay. It was liowever the only clear wuUr visible : all else was a solid surface of ice. At night the wind u :;s nmch more moderate. On the following day ( Srpt. 23;. thee was no change. We were completely frozen in; and were obliged lo cut round tin; ship, that she might right herself, leaving been heeled over by the ice. iSopL 21) There; was a heav> fall of snow all day. and it continued on the twenty-fifth of September. The week was expended ; and we were idle and immovable. The ther- mometer, from having been at 21" for the past days reached to 30°. i>V *' ^ i'-iS'ii. 332 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY nw (Sept. 26) There was nothing to interfere with the services and repose of Sunday ; and no change. The temperature, however, seemed graduaHy falling ; it had been but 7° in the night, and was no more than 14» all Monday {Sept. 27). A lane of water was seen near the islands that were next to us. It became wider on the following day {Sept. 28) ; so that, had we not been imprisoned, we might have made some progress to the northward. {Sept. 29) The thermometer fell to 5", and the clear water of yesterday was covered with bay ice. The surrounding hummocks were also cemented together in such a manner, that nothing but a storm could separate them. Our hopes of a liberation were there- fore fast passing away ; and our work was now to cut through the ice, so as to attain a harbour that was likely to 'prove our home for the better part of another year. It was found to be a foot thick; and as there were also many heavy pieces in the way, our progress was necessarily very slow, and the labour hard. There was not wind enough to prevent the formation of bay ice. {Sept. 30) Under the continuance of the same low temperature, the whole sea was now covered with ice. There was no longer, therefore occasion either to hope or fear : and there was an end to all anxiety fU least, The agitation under which we had so long laboured had subsided into the repose of absolute certainty. Our winter prison was before us ; and all that we had now to do, was to reach it, set up our amphibious house, and, with one foot on sea and one on shore, " take patience to ourselves." Though we had done much, we still, however, found it very hard work to cut through the remainder of this ice, which, though but newly formed, was already sixteen inches thick, independently of the broken pieces from the former winter that were mixed with it. Thence, what we had cut off was to be lifted to the surface, as it could not be sunk under the field; and, in consequence, we only made eighteen feet way in this and the preceding day ; a slow navi- gation, though, fortunately, our harbour was not very far off. It seemed almost a fated period for us; as it was the very anniversary of the day which had fixed us not three miles from the spot which we were now seeking to occupy ; while we were perhaps again captives— and who could conjecture?— for another year. It was the end of September; but the summary of September, 1830, is one of the least agreeable that I have yet to record. 4>mW'-^>v-i-'. 'IC TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 333 services and V, however, ^lit, and was )f water was me wider on imprisoned. ear water of J hummocks olhing but a were there- through the ur home for I footthicii; ur progress ;re was not ;mperatur<\ no longer, s an end to laJ so long linty. Our to do, was foot on se.i t very hard though but mtly oftlie d with it. rface, as it e, we only dow navi- »r off. It iniversary pot which laps again '. It was 30, is one It was now winter, without dispute. Theoretically, it ought to have been such ; and that it was practically so, we had long been sure, whatever efforts might have been made to flatter the men, or ourselves, that it was otherwise. It had been a busy and a labo- rious month; but it was busy idleness, as far as any result had followed, and all the labour had produced no return. It was, in every sense, a wasted month, and it had been an amply provoking one : there was not one in all the preceding year in which we had not done something useful, or at least made preparations for it ; thus finding occupation that satisfied us; while there was not one which had not held out, what was even better, hopes, and those most lively when the chance of release was most distant. We had now to hope again, for nearly another year; to count months, weeks, even days, yet with less confidence than we had done during the last winter. He who can hope a second lime as he did the first, is of a more fortunate constitution than some of our people seemed to be. The despondent could not conceal their feelings; though, of the greater number, I am bound to say that their conlentedness, or rather re- signation, exceeded what I had anticipated. It was my business to show them the brighter side of this picture, by recapitulating our success in discovery, the excellent condition of our ship, the com- fortable home which we had now learned to make of it, our ample stock of provisions, our good health and peace, and the belter har- bour which we should now secure, as it was one also whence it would prove much more easy to extricate ourselves hereafter. But the bright side of life is not easily seen through the dark one; and I had, therefore, to trust to time and habit, and to hope that between our own resources and the communications of the natives, supplied, as we expected to be by them, with fresh provisions, and, before long, with the power of renewing our expeditions by land, time would pass on, and the present evils become lighter. In reviewing the weather and the temperature during thib month, it is seen that it was more severe than that of the preceding Sep- tember; and thus, being an earlier winter, it also promised to be a worse one. The highest and the lowest in the present were 43° and b" plus, and the mean 27" 42' plus : in the former, the two first ha'^. been UO" and 8° plus, and the last 32" plus. In the Sep- tember of 1829, there were several gales from the west and south. |.r \ iJl! M 334 SKC;(»!SD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m'\ Ih*' which clrarcil Mip ro.isl in such a m;inner that it coiiKl oflcn lip navij',aleil ; but in Ihe |)rcsenl one. there had not been a 8iii|»lr breeze from those (jiiai lers. capable of making any impiession on llie ice. On the contrary, th( n; had l»een several gah-s from the northward; so that as fast as that wliich was in thesoutliern part of thissea di.s8oIve«l, the space was t^Ued by the arrival of heavier masses from the north. It was as if the northern ocean were send- ing all its stores into this quarter ; and we knew that it was now the unipieslionable parent of an inexhaustible supply; while, as if tl;e blockade was not already sufficiently complete, every little shili of wind from Ihe north to the eastward, tilled up the little ba}s which might have all-orded us a retreat. Dad, too, as this was in ilself. it was rendered much more effectually so by the state of the tides, which did not allow these masses to Hoat again, when one aground ; so that (hey could not be removed, even though we h.id cut them, while, when once taking the shore, they became as mueli a partof it during the ensuing season, as the rocks themselves. I need not, in this summary, go back to any general record of the ship's proceedings or our own ; they offer less interest than usual, and we had not been in a situation to make any observations of moment. Our sporting calendar presents little more than some fruitless firing at seals, and the ineffectual pursuit of a white bear. CHAPTER XXXIV. LABOUn IN CLTTING TUUOL'GH THE ICE— BECOME FIXED FOR TIIH WINTER— SL5IMARY OF THE MO>TH. {Oc/. 1, 1830) October commenced with clear weather, and. in the course of the day, a strong breeze from the westward broke up so much of the bay ice to the north-east as to display a little clear water. It made no impression, however, on the rough ice which was attached to the land ; and one of the bergs near us having spht under our quarter, we received a violent concussion. The labour TO THE VRCIIC REGIONS. 3;i5 of ciiltinf; our way was rcncweil, an : though we were now at lenglh clear of the heavy ice. Towards the following morning {Oct. 8), the thermometer fell to li"; and, al daylight, there was not an atom of water to be seen in any direction. All was ice; and it is remarkable thai this day was the aimiversary of the same event in the preceding year. We however gained fifly feel more; and, on the following day (Or/. 9), forty ; but being now bul in three feel water, we were obliged to shore the vessel up. Thell.ermometer had been always low, and, on this night, was only 2"; but the weather was calm and clear. (Oct. 10) It was now apparent thai we should soon be obliged lo adopt the negative scale of the thermometer as well as the posi- tive. It stood al zero this morning ; and it had not reached that point last year, lill the 19th of the same month. We were thus obliged ,^again, to labour on Sunday ; since another forty-eight hours of such frost would render it extremely difficult lo cut Ihe ship in : >l i^v 1% u. :Arv' M 3!6 SECOMT) VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ;js llie ice aroiiihl lirr was, oven now, three and four feet thiik. Nor had we nia«le more than the half of our needful voyage; while it was ahsolutcly neeessary for her safely, that she should l)e n-- moYi'd In a |daee where she couhl float, which was not less lh;in a hundred yards olF. We (gained hut thirty feet hy all our exertions. (Oct. II) The \\eather did not chan|;e, and we advanced forly- flve fiet. On the next niornini; {Oct. lii), a fot; covered the rijjj^inj; with ice, and we (gained as nnich ukut. The thirteenth of October was a beautiful clear and calm day ; and I found, when on shore. that the sun melted the snow u|)on the rocks, thoup.h the noon tem- perature was as low as 8", falling to 1" at midni|>ht. Other forty- five feet were gained by cutting. (Oct. 14) In the course of this forenoon there was a gale from the west, with snow, raising the thermometer to 12°, and at last to 2i}". at midnight. More of the canal was cut, but the wind preventdl us from heaving the ship into it. This gale increased in force till the morning of the fifteenth of October, w hen it fell calm ; and we could see that the new ice in the ofling had been once more broken up, so as to show some clear water. The ship was advanced fifty feet this day, and forty-five on the following ; but she did not yet float at low water. The weather was variable, and the thermo- meter did not materially alter. {Oct. 17) A week, a second week, had done little for us, and we were obliged to make Sunday once more a day of work, thus ad- vancing forty feet. A gale, which had arisen the nij;ht before, continued till noon. We gained twenty more on the Monday {Off, 18), and saw that the clear water to the northward h.id enlarged. The following day {Oct. 19) oiu' progress was thirty ; while the ice was so heavy, that we were obliged to heave the i)ie(Hs up by the capstan. From the rhore I could see that the ice was forming again in the water, which the gale had cleared during the preceding days. {Oct. 20) The temperature fell from 12" to 4". We gain<'d thirty feet in advance, but found the ice rapidly increasing in thickness. On the twenty-first our progress was forty feet, and we had entirely lost sight of the clear water. A strong gale, with snow, impeded this work on the following morning {Oct. 22) ; but, in the evening;, we gained fourteen feet, which enabled us very nearly to float at low water. (Mi the next day ( Oct. 23 ) we gained as many more. TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 337 Diiritif* these four days the weather had vuric'^ much, and the fem- |)cralurc changed with it; l»ut is was {generally hii^her than it had lately been, and was this night at ^1". (Oct. 21) It was necessary again to occupy Sunday, as he fore ; and the work was harder than usual, since the ice was ahout a foot and a half thick. It was too heavy, therefore, to lift, even when it was cut, nor could we sink it : so that we were obliged to cut a space for the fragments in the thinner surrounding Held, th.ii we might lodge them on it, and thus make room to pass by. What was done, was not, however, finished in lime to enable us to heave the ship any farther in advance. ( Oct. 21')) This was a fine clear day, but the thermometer fell just below zero. Our apparently endless work was resumed; and on the following day {Oct. 20) the heavy jhccc in our way was removed, and the place for its reception was cut, so as to allow us to advance forty feet. On the next {Oct. 27) wegaiue ^' ■■'«j ''r.f H 1 n i riBI 340 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY pudding— while a constant succession of diet would be obtained. Thus we trusted that their health and strength would be kept up, so as to enable them to go througli the fatigue of travelling in the spring. The place of the ship, I must now remark, was in a bay extend- ing to the south, after entering the inlet to the eastward, which was termed Sheriffs bay, while the point to the east was called Watch point. Though the clear water in the offing did not reach so far south as in the preceding year, it was longer open ; and notwithstanding the occasional severity of the cold, the mean temperature, was higher by five degrees than in the corresponding month of 1829; the highest having been 24, and the lowest 12. It closed also at plus 24°, being 40° higher than on the final day of last October. On the whole, having but the surgeon to spare for the chace, the produce in hares had been respectable ; but this tract having been the residence of the Esquimaux in the preceding year, the animals in general had been frightened away or exterminated. The place where we were now fixed was very near to the huts which they had then inhabited. t CHAPTER XXXV. TRANSACTIONS IN NOVEMBER— SUMMARY OF THAT MONTH— PRO- CEEDINGS IN DECEMBER, WITH A SUMMARY. {Nov. 1, 1830) This month began at least favourably ; the tempe- rature averaging 21° plus, with winds varying both in direction and intensity. To commence our winter preparations, the sails were unbent, and the topmasts unrigged and taken down. On the following day ( Nov. 2) it blew a hard gale, which afterwards mo- derated, and the thermometer fell to minus 4°. The raftering for the ship's roof was commenced, and it was continued on the fol- lowing day (Noty. 3). On the next {Nov. 4) it blew, with snow, ill^''iprin- TO THE ARCTIC REGIOTfS. 341 SO hard, that the men were confined to work below. It was from the north ; but the winds changed much, and the thermometer also varied between zero and plus 24°. {IVov. 15 ) This day the roof was covered with sails : the valleys and ravines on the shore were filled with snow. The condensing tanks were replaced in their old position. On Saturday {Nov. 16 ) our covering was completed, the deck cleared, and many matters put to rights. There was snow on both days, and the temperature did not fall below 22° plus. {Nov. 7) Sunday was a day of rest : and the regularity of our church service was re-established. {Nov. 8) It snowed so hard in the forenoon, that the men could not work outside : but there was plenty of work in the hold. On the ninth they were employed in breaking up the snow round the ship, and on the following {Nov. 10), in banking it up, as they had done last year. The weather on those two days varied much, and the range of the thermometer was from plus 10° to minus 16"; but, on the eleventh, there came on a very severe snow-storm, which lasted sixteen hours ; the temperature varying between minus 2° and minus 16°. {Nov. 12) No work could have been done outside yesterday, but it being fair and moderate to day, the embankment went on. It was not less fine on the next {Nov. 13), but the thermometer fell to minus 20°, being the lowest we had yet experienced. On the same day in last November, it was plus 26° j making the great difference of 46 degrees. {Nov. 14) It was a clear and calm Sunday, but cold enough, as the thermometer fell to minus 29°. A bright aurora borealis was the only noticeable event. They had been rare or absent for a long time. A fire-hole was cut in the ice onMonday {Nov. io), and the embankment went on. An overcast sky on the next day {Nov. 16) caused the thermometer to rise five or six degrees, but there was otherwise no change, either in the weather or our pro- ceedings. {Nov. 17) Things were only varied this day, by a little snow, and by our men being employed in preparations for the observatory, which they were occupied in constructing during the following day {Nov. 18) and the next {Nov. 19), when it became cold enough to depress the thermometer to minus 30°. On the twentieth the labour of observation recommenced, and some transits were 1,'' I''-: f 1;; if m i ■■' > r : ■' I - ' \ liiijtjii! m ft I: 348 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY noted. {iVov. 21 ) If the journal of a week is thus meagre, there is nothing new to be remarked respecting Sunday. ( Nov. 22) The chief variety of this day was the taking of a black fox in the trap ; being the first that we had seen this season. It was young and starved ; and immediately devoured what was offer- ed ; we gave it the place v^hich had been rendered vacant by the death of a former white one. A pillar for the thermometer was erected on the following day (TVoy. 23). The ordinary works went on as usual ( Nov. 24 ) ; the weather gradually becoming colder, though clear; and thus several transits were obtained. {Nov. 215) The thermometer was at 39" minus, and the mercury froze for the first time. It has been thought that mercury expand- ed on cooling, like many other metals, and would therefore break the bulb of a thermometer. This does not happen ; and therefore it contracts instead of expanding, like lead, tin, and many more. The sun did not rise above the southern hills to day ; and was therefore not seen from the ship, though visible from the higher grounds on shore ; it was the first warning of a very long night to come. {Nov. 26,27) The two last days of this week were without interest or variety. The weather was alternately gloomy and clear, now and then threatening snow, and the thermometer rose to minus 16". On Sunday ( Nov 28) it was 11", and the history of the rest of that day is as usual. On the preceding, the work of embarking, and other matters, had been going on. ( Nov. 29) The morning being mild and fine, I walked to the place where the ship had wintered during the last season. I found that our old harbour was much more hampered with heavy ice than it had then been : as was the case equally, with the bay. I certainly thought our present one preferable, independently of the fact of its being so much farther to the north, which was our intended direction. It, indeed, seems trifling to talk of two or three miles as a great space gained ; but when it is recollected that we were a month navigating scarcely three hundred yards, and that the lucky chance of being present when and where the ice opens, be that but for an hour or two, may turn the balance between a free escape and a winter's imprisonment in this " thick -ribbed ice, " even two miles were a subject of congratulation. I now thought it advisable to set up some direction posts for the h TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 348 i:i:: i«i^:^' natives, as it was probable they would come here before long to seek for the ship. These marks simply pointed to her present place, and that was sufficient. We might even have concluded that they would seek for us till they found us, since their interest in the matter was greater than ours, as far as opinions went, at least; though ours was not small, when we expected to obtain fresh provisions, of some kind, from them. I saw neither animal, nor trace of one, in this walk. {Nov, 30) Yesterday and this day the men lodged the powder in a magazine, which they had constructed on shore. It was a fine day. and we went to the mountains to look for the sun, but a fog-bank obscured the meridian horizon. A flag-staff was erected on the hill, to aid the natives in finding the ship. The temperature was from 11" to 18° minus. It was the end of another month, but its summary is not such as to present any variety or interest. In point of temperature, it had promised favourably as far as the tenth; but, after that, the weather became very severe, though recovering a little towards the end. The mean was 4 3/4 less than in the last corresponding month. The mercury froze also on the twenty-fifth ; and, though some bad mercury had frozen with us on the seventeenth of December, when the temperature was but 37" minus, it was not till the fourteenth of January that it reached 39", so as to freeze that which was pure. The period of the real freez- ing of mercury, between the two seasons, differed therefore by nearly two months. Having reserved the meteorological tables to an appendix, I have not hitherto introduced any such record into the journal of our transactions; but as many readers will never consult those, I here add a specimen of the present comparison, which will at least show llie manner of this registry. w< "'K :\^¥ Wi* i . f:^ lii. '-r j I ■ it'i Ill 1^1 In I 344 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Abstract of the Register of the Thermometer^ taken hourly by the Officer of the Jratch^ and compared with 1829, on the Ice. Mean below Zero. Mean of Max. 6". 400 1". 383 Mean or Mean of Min. Max. and Min. IS". 333 llo. 133 10". 865 6". 2383 ^^^^ \ To Midnight- lO". 9716 i *"^' "^^°^ IS-") ) "^^ '*""" ~ ^"- ^"^^^ ) — 6o 030690 '"-'I To Midnight- 6". 1277 { ^- ^^^^ ""I'sHoio!"''' j — ^o. 723,613 40.723,615 5". 016 4". 200 4". 6083 Being lower in 1830 than 1829, by 4 degrees and 7, etc. Barometer. Temperature of the Barometer and Chronometer Room. at9 A.M. 30.00753) at 9 A. M. 39.08 ) > 1830 mean 30.02283 > 1830 mean 40.423. at 3 p. M. 30.03663 I at 3 P. M. 41.80 ' The Temperature of the lower decli was 45o— of my cabin 34o— and of the cabin 50". We had no occasion to alter our opinion of our harbour, as to good or evil. Our vessel was out of the stream of the drift ice, whenever it should move, and that was a most important conside- ration. The whole month had been occupied in housing the ship, building the embankments, and levelling the hummocks of ice near us ; and having now had more practice, we had done our work better than in the preceding year. The lower deck had been rendered lighter and more comfortable, by a coat of white paint. The observatory had been erected on a rock as near to the ship as possible, and its construction had been much improved, by snow walls, and a snow passage with double doors. The transit instru- ment had given a few observations. Our sporting had proved as little successful as possible, being limited to the entrapped fox. The regularity of the school had been grievously interrupted by our labours; but the most backward were kept to their lessons: and I had reason to believe that the perfect health of the men was not a little owing to the incessant exercise which kept both the mind and body fully occupied. {Dec. 1) It was a mild commencement ofDecember to the feehngs; but the thermometer ranged between minus 12° and 22°. The ice on the lake was two feet and a half thick. We pursued in vain two willovv partridges ; but the time for sporting was now very much contracted, even had there been game, since it became dark at two I' PUP v^ i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 346 o'clock. But this was the smallest evil arising from these short (lays, which so utterly impede travelling in the depth of winter ; though the state of things is little better in summer, when the melting of the snow and the state of the ice render it equally imprac- ticable for the far greater part of that season. The whole of life is here curtailed : sea and land, summer and winter, it is difficult to say which is worst; and I believe a sound philosopher would come to the conclusion that it is the Esquimaux alone who here know the true secret of happiness and the rational art of living; while, as he is not likely to grant this great and long sought discovery to their reasoning powers, he will be obliged to admit that nature is nut always the stepmother which she has been termed. And if to eat and to sleep, to sleep and to eat again, be a mode of happiness which has been disputed in other lands, however it be practically fol- lowed, no one will contest its vahie here, or will doubt that it is truly the to xaAov, the sum and consummation of human happi- ness. The Esquimaux eats but to sleep, and sleeps but to eat again as soon as he can : what better can he do? The adaptation is perfect, his happiness is absolute. Had we been better educated, we should have done the same : but we were here out of our ele- ment, as much in the philosophy of life as in the geography of it. {Dec. 2) The weather was not disagreeable, though, in the day, the thermometer was but minus 12°, rising in the evening to 2». It was arranged that two watches of the men should walk on shore in the forenoon, for exercise, and two in the afternoon. 1 need not say that this has been held one of the preventatives of scurvy. We took a white fox in the trap. It blew hard in the night, and there was a gale on the following morning {Dec. 3); but it soon abated, though there was snow till the evening. The tide was observed to be as irregular as it had formerly been in our other harbour. {Dec. 4) The gale was over, but the snow co. 'is ued to fall till night. It was then fine, and the thermometer about zero. This last snow was about a foot deep, and we were obliged to dear it away alongside. A foot of snow is not a great depth of water, at least till it is frozen into a mass. Nor is it an easy matter to measure the depth to which a fall of snow is equivalent ; such is the drifting, and, still more, the difficulty of securing anything like an average within the compass of any gauge that has yet been devised. Had it been otherwise, we should have been as pleased as we were desirous, after 17.. ■4 'I'H ■ mm ^ iiii 11 340 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY a whole year's residence, to know the actual fall of water in this country and climate. As far as I have read, no such estimates have l)een attempted respecting these northern regions and lands of snow. But if, under a vague estimate from mere recollections or obser- vations of weather, we had considered this a country in which much water fell in the course of the year, we might not be very wrong. The past registry, which is but the usual noting of weather, gives many days of snow or rain. Future observers, if future observers should ever have such opportunities, must try to determine what the fact is ; but whatever that may prove, the rain that falls here is of little use, since it has no duly to perform for vegetation; and if the snow protects anything, it is a soil without plants to derive benefit, or rocks which are alike indifferent to rain or drought, heat, or cold. Our tanks had now once more come into full use, since the cleaning them on Saturday night produced three bushels and a half of ice. That was a proof that we were warm enough between decks; and the comfort was disputed by no one. I formerly described the nature of this contrivance, when I suggested also thi; principle on which it acted; comparing it to the condenser of the usual steam engine. But I ought then to have said what I may do now, namely, that by this very simple expedient, all necessity for the operose means formerly adopted for preserving the comfort of the men between decks has been superseded. It is well remem- bered that none of the expensive contrivances in cork linings, or whatever else, prevented that condensation of steam from the human and other evaporation within the ship, which caused a perpetual dripping of water, and rendered the situation of the people most uncomfortable, particularly in their sleeping places. I do not wish to pass any censure on those who suggested those contrivances, and am the less entitled to do this, when my own ship in the voyage of 1818 was not free from the evil in question, and when the pre- sent scheme had not occurred to me. But having now been fully tried, and with the most perfect success, I may safely recommend it among those fittings which should be applied to every ship under- taking a voyage in these northern regions. {Dec. 5) The week was ended in the usual manner ; and the day of rest and religion was kept in the way from which we made it a rule never to deviate when it could be avoided. |?:->,.l ''■■ TO TU£ ARCTIC REGIONS. 347 The sixth uf December produced no change worth recording : too many ol-' these records, indeed, are but registries of labour, of which [lie identity is tiresome, of weather which has not very often much interest, and of temperali*"e which wouUl have as little, were it not jtileresting to know the state and trace the changes of such a climate as this, which does not seem exceeded in badness by any other yet recorded, whatever rivals it may have. Man is a strange animal when he can live in so many different countries, in climates so op- puseil, and on food so diverse. He would be a still stranger one, if, having ever known another country ( I need not say a belter, when lliere cannot be a worse), he had made a voluntary choice of the America of Prince Ileg(!nl's inlet. But he has contrived to wander hither, whencever he might have come; if he ever knew bananas, he has learned to prefer fish oil, has made bones a substitute for bamboos, and blubber for pineapples; learning also that a seal-skin is a more titling dress than a cotton wrapper, and that snow may he substituted for wood and stone: while, not forgetting to bring with him fire, and what is better, as much cunning as he can con- vei'l to use, he has made himself at home, and is so at home, that he would envy no man of any country, nor any country of any man, even though he knew what they were, and what they pos- sessed. Is not the animal as vain of himself and his superiority as any other man under any other Ufe? If he is not much vainer, then it is not true that the vanity of all rude and ignorant people commensurate with their ignorance and rudeness. But the arrange- ment is admirable; and philosophers are right:— in the generals. however; not so right in the application. Man, in the mass, is einially happy in all conditions of life, all regions of the earth, and all states of cultivation. It is a very different thing to maintain that, individually, all are equally happy, or that, to all, there are equivalent compensations of happiness and suffering. (Dec. 7 ) If there was little novelty to day, there was at least the first glorious evening that we had seen ; the joint morning, noon, and evening of a sun which never rose and never set : which, pro- mising both, performed neither, and of which the highest noon was but a twilight, creeping, not along the horizon, but over the short space which told us that it would see us no more for a long time. Yet it was a glorious golden meridian of twiUght and sunset; while the crimson clouds were brilliant with tints r'l il :^-M ^ •Sf ■i 348 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY It Mil I Ji'' i rnn'Iy seen in the more favoured climate of our own country. {Dec. 8) The erection of an observatory for the magnet had occupied our people yesterday, and found them work this day. There was nothing worthy of peculiar note on the two followini; ( Dec. 9, 10). The weather was, on the whole, agreeable, though va- rying (/)^r?. 10); but it ought to be called fine. The lower ranijes of the thermometer varied between 10" and 32" minus, and this {Dec. 11 ) was the termination of another week of durance. They wlio were fond of idle puns, thought the term Sheriff's harbour not misapplied. {Dec. 12) The men who went on shore for exercise, after church, saw the tracks of a glutton. Monday {Dec. 13), like Sunday, was calm and clear, and there was an aurora of no great note. On Tuesday {Dec. 14) there was little change in the now unavoidable sameness of our occupations and our amusements. On this and many other days we tracked animals and did not see them; carried guns and did not fire ; watched for the invisible sun that we might at least know it was still in existence ; and were not sorry when (I cannot say the day was done, where all was night), but when we might at least end another of our own days by going to bed. {Dec. lli) A strong breeze, with snow, formed a sort of variety just now ; but it imprisoned the men, and that was an evil. No one is much the better for thinking : those who had nothing very cheer- ing to think of, were always the worse. They who commanded had however no great right to believe themselves of a more hopeful and buoyant character, than those whose business it was to obey; whatever the fact might have been as to either party. They had an object in view which the others could scarcely keep in sight : and ambition, or vanity, or whatever else, looked forward to a gratifi- cation which, under any success, could be little to those who had only to follow as they were directed : participating the labour, yet, if not the fame, so also, be it remarked, free of all anxiety, and subject to no responsability. {Dec. 16) There was little to note this day but a slender aurora. The weather and the temperature scarcely differed so much from what they had generally been for some time, as to require notice for any other object than that of a register {Dec. 17 ). The present work of the men was to cover the boats with snow, for the pur- pose of protecting them from the weather. A strong gale inter- m'^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 340 ruptcd this, but did nut lust bt^yond tho day. Yet it bognn again on the fullowinf; {Dec. 18), thuiigh soon moderating, and giving us the remainder of Saturday fur our several works, now not re- quiring notice. On shore, the eifect was to hanh'n the snow so that it couKl generally bear our weight, and to bare the rocks in such a manner as to alter the appearance of the land. Simday (Dec. 10 ) was passed as it ought tu be : as we had always passed it whenever it was in uur puwcr. (Dec. 20) If this day was wilhuul mark, it was one in which we compared the tides that we had observed. Nothing but a tide-table, which I need not give, would make their singular irregularity sufRcienlly conspicuous. I noticed the same facts last year, and they were even more remarkable in the present. Every thing was uut of rule : whatever the moon might eifect, the counteracting causes, in winds, currents, ice, and perhaps more, set all calculations at defiance. It was a high or a low tide whenever it chose to be; and that was nearly all we knew of the matter. {Dec. 21 ) In the calendar, this was the shortest day ; that was toleralily indifferent to us, who had no day at all ; but as the siin at- tained its greatest elongations at midnight, this and the following {Dec 22) were, to us, of equal lengths. The temperature was as low as 27" minus, and rose to 21° on the succeeding, which was stormy. To confirm what I have just said of the tides, that of to day rose, in the forenoon, but one inch. {Dec. 23) The gale blew hard till night, but ceased so as to leave us a fine morning {Dec. 21). It was even calm and pleasant; and this gale, by still farther baring the rocks and filling the ravines with snow which had afterwards hardened, rendered our walking more easy than ever, and almost agreeable. There was nothing, however, on shore, to amuse us : for us, as for the men, the land afforded exercise, and that was all. It is likely that they at least thought this a task and a labuur rather than a pleasure; but it was necessary, and more for them than us. The night temperature was minus 18°. ( Dec. 2o ) A violent storm of snow interfered with the parade of Christmas day, but all else was done according to custom. Sunday {Dec. 26), immediately following, gave a second day of repose; and on Monday {Dec. 27) the usual works were resumed. The weather improved, and during these three days the average cold iN'^i ■Ih ■ hi ■ <.1 ' If I n ^ ". M. .vfi . jam 2wLs® TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 353 < -r « -, = o .SPSS S B H s '«"i ^Hlll II II II H oUcop 'a I?. S © J3 (d o ?® ^« X X) Olio's o d ;^ , >■ X o ■■Ta — c o O '- 'So /3 I? Ift M -*il? wl-y. -'■* 71 o o o Hj3"3 CI ■* n 1^ % \ Ed Cd 1^^ p-1 O ^■*> 2™ a w X in IM • to 00 in 05 o 1^ I- ^ (M . ^ o K A % X IK w-'lg -- o cd 'e td !« Cd 2" lu X 2 00 rt 2 u ■»j 3 . o o « Am 'ft- CO tl o I! 1! X us >> re •a o -!|l ^ in ^* (K to X o X © . . © ^ X * o J5 ^© X X ©l^'el^ © d © ^o IK W X m -a© S l« Ifc CO d ". CO X •-> K CO IM X ad X fc !CCO M CdM X M X 01 u (d ^ O © |x ao -a •* M is i, © O O O M ^an^ I II t^ in M •* CO — I t» CI 05 C9 © in ^" ~ in m ©'.a i? jx ICd 0> 00 — CO W 53 1^' ?§'=«• 2 '■'^" ?U5l^'2lxxlcd la > . • -11 Si -I w CO >» re ■3 I— O ao II II II 1! X (d Cd X K X ©IS 01 ?^2 (d M Cd a. K CJ in Ed K K CO CO o o ^ x' Ed' 1" r, X Ed X 21I(-;5I^ Slar;»itd tji ^. I * 354 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Sk'affefc ■* »» so las M fw CO CD O fc'^ ^1 ^ t--. "* It-' * I* ift I • O I • « Ifc t^ 11? 50 lao fj [M §tSl^2U£l« ■3 > ■sa ■3 e S s "3 00 CI PI CI ® =■ H ;3lS«l^ in 1/3 '« o — • -1' ~ • ^ IS . — CI M . d I • 00 Ij.- TO THE ARCTIC REGIOiNS. 355 CHAPTER XXXVI. TRA!°, so that the frozen mercury thawed, and then froze again. There was a faint aui'ora, both in the morning and the evening. (Jan. 10, 11, 12) A gloomy sky raised it next day to 23" for a short time. The ice on the lake, being examined, was found to be three feet and a half thick. On the thirteenth, the sky pre- sented a beautiful display of colours, as it had formerly done at Ihe same season; and the land was much elevated by refraction. 366 SECOND VOYVGE OF DISCOVERY H, m i 1 ** I'J 4 G (f On the fourteenth, there was a gale wkh snow, raising thp thermometer to 10"; and on the following {Jan. 115), it reached mi- nus 4°, making a considerable range within this month. The sun was not yet visible. {Jan. 16) There was a little snow on Sunday, and the tempera- ture reached minus 2". There was no material change on Mondny {Jan. 17); but, on Tuesday {Jan. 18), it blew a gale with much drift snow. On Wednesday {Jan. 19), the sun was seen for the first time ; being one day sooner than we had seen it last year. It was a welcome sight, even now ; though it was long yet before we shouKl derive much advantage from it, in respect to heat at least. The two first of the following days {Jan. 20, 21 Jan. 22) were without remark ; the Saturday was distinguished by a large and beautiful halo round the moon, with four paraselense, occurring at eight in the evening, when her altitude was 32 degrees. The latter occupied a horizontal position ; and there was also a bright arch all round the heavens, parallel to the horizon, and of the same altitude as the moon. The radius of the halo vi^as 2lj degrees ; and where these two crossed, the prismatic colours were displayed, while there was occasionally an additional halo of five degrees, equally coloured. The whole appearance lasted an hour; when the weather became hazy, with snow. {Jan. 23) There was a fresh breeze, with more snow, on Sunday. Monday {Jan. 24) was clear, with the thermometer at minus 11°; and, rising to 7° on the next {Jan. 215), that also proved a very mild day. On the twenty-sixth of January, the sun reached the ship for the first time, and shone bright. The land was very clear, and mucli elevated by refraction. Commander Ross was employed in measu- ring a base. (Jan. 27) A remarkable halo occurred to day, about the sun. being, of course, somewhat more than a semicircle : the lower ends being red passing to yellow, and becoming white in the upper part of the sky. {Jan. 28) There was little change of weather or occu- pation; but some willow partridges were shot, and many ravens, hares, and grouse were seen, while on Saturday {Jan, 29), a fox was taken. The temperature of Sunday {Jan. 30) was 19" minus. After church, the men walked six miles to the islands where the natives had been resident last year, but found nothing except the deserted TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 367 huts and traps. (Jan. 31) The last day of the month was marked by a strong gale with drift snow : the thermometer rising with the wind, as high as minus 2°. In spile of occasionally severe days, the mean of this month was not so low as that of last January. It was about minus 23", whereas (he former was 26". The highest elevation was 2.15 plus, and the lowest 156" minus; making a total range, with a necessary correc- tion for the thermometer when at its lowest point, of 60° in the course of twelve days. During the lower temperatures it was calm, and beautifully clear; but we could make no observations with the instruments on those days, since it was as impossible to touch the metal as if it had been red hot. After the 25th, we procured some good ones. There were many gales, as the journal has shown; and, on all liiose days, the barometer fell and the temperature rose. But it was an invariable remark, that, when the gale was from the north- ward, the former fell less, and the thermometer rose more, than when it was from any other quarter ; as this was also most striking when the wind was from the southward. The aurorae were very inconspicuous ; but the haloes were of a very striking character. The total of our sport in this month produced seven foxes and four birds. The lake was at last frozen through where we tried it, and the ice nearly four feet thick ; the increase having been ten inches since December. Though the sun was lirst seen on the nineteenth, some following (lays of thick weather prevented us from obtaining a second sight of it till it was three degrees high. Daybreak was now at eight o'clock ; and thus we had abundant lime for work and exercise. We had been disappointed in not receiving the expected visit from the natives, but attributed their absence to the badness of the weather. {Feb. 1) The month began with a strong northerly gale, and the thermometer rose till six in the evening, when it reached plus 6° ; being the highest temperature ever observed in these regions so early in the year. It rose to plus 11" on the following day {Feb. 2)' which was calm and mild at the beginning, but ended in another equally strong gale from the same quarter. Thus it contin- ued on the third, till near noon; the thermometer falling to zero, but rising a little in the evening, to recover the same degree at midnight. W$& '!■ (! 368 SECOIND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m i: {Feb. 4) It was an overcast ilay with snow : the wind cameroiini) to the south; and, in confirmation of my former remarks, the lem. perature fell to minus IIS". The men had employment in buildini; an observatory for noting refractions, and in repairing the others; one of which had been shaken from the foundation, in consequence of its connexion with the ice near us that had broken during one of the past gales. Saturday (/•>*. !5) ended with the thermometer at minus 24". On Sunday {Feb. G) it went down to 32°. Many willow partridges were seen by the men during their walk after divine service. The cold weather continued through the two following days {Feb. 7, 8), in which there was nothing remarkable but a slight aurora. Nor was there much change on the next {Feb. 9); the only notable occurrence was the taking of an unfortunate fox. which had lost its tongue through the frost, in biting at the iron bars of the trap. On the tenth of February, the temperature readi- ed 42° minus, and it was very cold. Another fox was taken. I attempted, a second time, to make observations on the diurnal variation, but the needle would not traverse. {Feb. 11) There being a stiff breeze, with a thermometer at 39" minus, the men found it impossible to walk on shore; and it was the same on Saturday {Feb. 12). The tanks having produced live bushels of ice this week, confirmed the remarks already maJe. {Feb. 13) Sunday passed as usual, and the weather was unchanged. In the evening of Monday {Feb 14), the temperature was down at 4I5«, and another fox was taken : as was a second on the following day {Feb. 15). In compensation, one of our own escaped on the next {Feb. 16), carrying off with it the chain. The thermometer went down one degree more. {Feb. 17, 18) The sea ice was cut through, and found to measure about four feet and a half. Two more foxes were taken, of which one had lost its tongue in the same manner as a former. The escaped one was forgetful enough to enter one of the traps, and was retaken on Saturday {Feb, 19). During these days, the temperature vacillated a little about the low standard it had held for some time ; it was 41)° when midnight closed the week. Foxes seemed now abundant, Sunday morning {Feb 20) having found another in the trap. A very few grouse and hares had been seen latterly. On Monday {Feb 21 ), there was again a fox taken. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 350 The weather was much the same as in the preceding week ; hut, with a cloudy sky, it rose to 31" minus on Tuesday {Fob 22), when again the trap produced a fox. Had our former neighhours been at their old post, not much of this game would have fallen to our share. ( Feb. 23 ) A fall of snow raised the thermometer to 22 degrees; and this weather continued till the following day ( Feb 21), when it became clear, as was the next {Feb 23), on which two grouse and a hare were killed. After some variable winds, and many changes from cloudy to clear weather, with correspondent variations of temperature, Saturday {Feb 26) night closed at minus 40". {Feb. 27 ) On this day, the sun had just power enough to raise the temperature from minus 43" to 38" ; and, after that, it subsided to 42". Some hares were seen during the Sunday's walk : and more on the Monday {Feb. 28) ; but nothing was shot. It was little more than a schoolboy's experiment, to fire a ball of frozen mercury through an inch plank : but this had, possibly, not been done be- fore. The month closed with the thermometer at 43" minus. The summary of this month is more barren than usual. It had been a very cold one, particularly towards the end. The mean proved to have been minus 34". Yet there was an unusually high temperature in the early part, since it once reached plus 9" ; affect- ing materially the total mean, but not that of the latter half, which averaged 42". The lowest fall was about 49". The observations experienced much obstruction from the cold, as I have remarked above; but a few were registered. The men retained their health, and, as 1 believe, their contcntedness. Not having yet seen the Esquimaux, we now gave up the hope of their joining us till May, though not well able to account for their absence. Our sport, if it be sport to snare foxes, had been unusually suc- cessful. Nor must we be accused of wantonness in this ; since we had a family of dogs to maintain. It was the stud that we were bound to keep in as good condition as we could afford, for services which were now not far distant. {March 1 ) The weather continued the same. There was a bright aurora, which agitated the magnetic needle in the manner that has been often observed. Such light as I could collect from it by means of a large reading lens, had no effect on the differential thermometer. The three followingdays(il!f«rc/j2, 5,4) scarcely presented any change; W^' l|W ^ 360 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY |'« i 111' l^ i*. .1"* but on Satnrilay (March U) it was s(|nally for a time, and the ther- mometer fell to 40", having begun this month with its lowest at .IS". A fox was taken, and a hare killed. {March ^) Sunday was somewhat warmer; the temperature rising in the day to 28", for two hours. It was 40" on Monday night {March!), and a hare was killed on that day. The two following days {March 8, 9) were little noticeable for anything Lui a general continuance of the same weather and temperature : exccj)! that, on the last of those, there was a bright aurora. {March 10) A fox, coming to the ship, narrowly escaped beiiiji; taken by the dogs. We froze oil of almonds in a shot-mould, at minus 40", and fired it against a target ; which it split, reboundinn; unbroken. A similar ball of ice had no effect. {March 11) The two last days of this week were as uniform in character as the pic- ceding: {March 12) the Saturday's midnight temperature being 3!'). {Marchl^) Sunday was unaltered in weather. Moinlay {March 11) produced another fox ; and the men commenced moving gravel for making a canal on the ice. It w as already seen that the sun could melt snow on some of the rocks. In the afternoon of Tuesday {March 115), a change took place in the weather, and it blew hard, with drift snow : which continued till noon on the following day {March 16). On the seventeenth it was alternately clear and gloomy, but the thermometer held fast about 36". It was exceed- ingly cold to the feelings on Friday ( March 18), at the same tem- perature; and, on Saturday {March 19), that fell to 44°. The tanks produced five and a half bushels of ice this week ; being the greatest evaporation from between decks that we had experienced since this apparatus was satisfactorily arranged. {March 20) The continuance and degree of the cold at this period of the present month began seriously to attract our attention ; and even to the reader, the registry which has now been repeated to weariness will not be uninteresting. The thermometer sank on this day, Sunday, to minus 52" ; and the average of the twenty-four hours was but 49". At four on the Monday morning (j)!farc^ 21), the sun crossed the equator at this exceedingly low temperature ; an occurrence which had no parallel in the preceding voyages. There was no change in this respect on the two following days ( March 22, 23); though the barometer rose and fell several times. There was a difference of a few degrees, for the better, on the next TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 361 (March 21), when the me.in rose to 30", and the heat in the (lay to 25° minus. (March 215, 26) Friday and Saturday pre- sented no material changes; and the thermometer on this last night was at 315°. (^«rc/i27,28, 29) Sunday and the following two days were almost equally without note. There was variable weather, gloomy and clear alternately, with occasional showers of snow, and, latterly, a fresh breeze. The lowest temperature of the three days lay from 35" to 28°, gradually rising. On the thirtieth of March, a decided and a very pleasing change took place. The thermometer reached 11" minus, and the day was 80 mild to our sensations that the men were congratulating each other on the " fine warm day," even when it had sunk to 20°. There could be no doubt that it did really feel warm ; such is the effect of contrast in this case. At forty degrees above this, it would have been a wintry cold seldom known in England, and we all knew what we should have felt there, even with this enormous difference. It was still warmer on the following [March 31), since it rose to 8" in the day, and did not fall below 17° in the night. Another month was ended. The great coldness of this month must already have been remark- ed. It had much exceeded that of the former corresponding ones in the voyages of the preceding navigators. The mean was 3u° mi- nus, being not less than seventeen degrees lower than the similar means during those, and it was eleven degrees lower than the lowest of them. The highest was 8" minus, and the lowest 152". Much snow having fallen , nearly the entire surface of the land was a mass of ice and snow. On one occasion only, the latter melted for a short time beneath the influence of the sun. on some rocks that were exposed to its rays ; yet not many became thus exposed, and the effect was of no long duration. In the March of the preceding year, however, during several days, the water was running down in streams. It was an adverse prospect as our future plans were concerned ; and had, at times, some effect in casting a damp on the men, which their tiresome sameness of occupation had no tendency to remedy. Yet they were in perfect health. There had been none on the sick list, and there was no appearance of scurvy. Altogether, many observations had been made and recorded ; the 18. ! >, sw: 302 SECOM) VOYAGi: OF DISCOVKRY l>Iacc for wliirh is Ihc appendix, not tliis journal. In addition to many foxes, twelve while hares had heen shot, with some plarnu- f,i\m ; hilt of our tamed animals, only two remained alive. Our disappointment in not seeini; the Kscpiimaux continued daily increasiuf;, as their expected arrival was the longer delayed. They furnished us with occupation and amusement, more reipiired hy the men than ourselves. We were also in want of seal's flesh for our do(^s, which would have heen starved had it not heen for our success in takiuj; foxes ; for ourselves, too, fresh venison and fish would have heen more than acceptable ; nor were we so well stocked with skin dresses as not to wish for more. We still looked forward to their visits with hope. CHAPTER XXXVII. M'lUL— AN EXPEDITION UNDERTAKEN — \f;COUNT OF THIS JOURNEY —SUMMARY OF THE MONTH. iJp?il 1, 1851 ) The weather Improved very slowly; but, on the second, the night temperature was zero, and the highest in the day plus 3°. The dipping needle was found to be out of order. On Sunday {April 3) there was a breeze, which became a gale on the following d;iy {Jpf^i'l i). The variations in the temperature were unimportant. {April J>) This was the day on which our travelling had com- menced last year. The condition of things was now very different, besides which, we could not well manage without the aid of the natives and the assistance of their dogs. The thermometer fell to minus 17° on the night >')f the sixth of April, thus giving us a tempe- rature 34° lower than on the corresponding day in the last year. {April!) A succession of heavy squalls with drift snow blew to day but ceased before the following (^/7n7 8), which was fine yet cold, with the night thermometer at 20°. Nor was it at all warmer on the Saturday {April 9). Where the sun acted on the snow it was Wl' S JOURTSFA TO THE \[\CTfC UEGIOVS. am i;ln/c'd, hut llii'iT was no flow of water, and no apparent ric.irinc,. II wjis rolder by two ilcijPdes on Sun»lay ( .Ipn7 10), which passed :iH usual. ( //pn'l 1 1 ) On Monday it ap|)roaehed zero, at noon, heinR a nrcal iiri|trovenjent. We were employed in [(reparations for a projected journey. This favonralil*^ change did not, however, last, since it fell to 43" on the followini; day ( Jpn'l 12 ). I^ast year, at the same lime, there were many pools near the ship and along the shore; at present, all was solid ice. On the two iK.'Xt {ytpn'l 13, 11), the Icinperature gradually mmroved, ami reached near to zero al noon. II came to plus 4" on Friday {April VS)\ /uid settled, on Satur- liiiy {.Ipril 10), with 2" as its maximum. Preparations for tra- velling continued. ( April 17) The first snow bunting of the season was seen this morning. On Monday ( April 18 ) the preparations for our journ<'y were complete, and we waited only for weather. A change seemed promised the next day ( April 19), as the thermometer rose lo plus 8", and the weather felt warm in spite of a breeze. A walking party was sent away two miles with the sledge, thai they might be ready lo start very early in the morning, if the weather |)(;rmitted. ( April 20 ) This being the case, the parly set off early, and by noon the convoying portion returned, leaving Commander Ross and live men lo pursue their journey. Another sledge and cooking ap- paratus were in preparation on board. Onlhclwenly-first the tempe- rature increased so much as to reach 31" plus, and we were agree- nbly surprised by a visit from three of the natives, Neytaknag, Powcytak, and Noyenak. They came over the western hills wilh their dogs, and stopped about a quarter of a mile off, holding up their hands to show they were unarmed, and calling out the usual all hail, " Mctnifi fnmig : " on which we proceeded to join them. It was the parly which had wintered at Awatulyak, consisting of three families ; and Ihcy were now at their station near the entrance of the inlet lead- ing lo that place. They had been met by Commander Ross, from whom I received a note, informing me that he had purchased two stores of salmon for two knives. This was welcome news, and we arranged to fetch this acceptable supply the next morning. We welcomed them to dinner and to sleep, and received from ?l '"S:*! %^i\ ^ !: ^'^1^4 S b'i),''"'i»^?' I' 364 SECOISD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY C d them the following information. AH their friends were well at Neilchillee, except Tiagashu, who had died in the winter. This party had killed many deer and taken much fish, and had been expecting us bo^h at Awatutyak and Neilchillee. One of the men was soon to go to this last place, and would convey the news of our present abode. We regretted the death of our friend Tiagashu. w ho had been one of the first to inform us of the geography. He was also a peculiarly good character ; and, having a large family, had been at one time so much in want, that we felt it proper to maintain them all for a time. Being poor, from the same cause, he had little to sell, and therefore obtained little from us in barter ; but, at the end, he was presented with a file and a knife, thus equalizing him with the others ; a bounty well applied, as this family had always been especially kind to us, and had formerly shown their gratitude for very trifling attentions, by bringing us a present of a seal, out of two which they had taken. Whatever he might be as an Esquimaux, he at least died an amiable and an exemplary man. We could not learn the cause of his death ; and had to regret that we had not been at hand, since it might have been within the power of our medicines. ( April 22 ) With the track of the former sledge to direct us, I left the ship at four in the morning, with the surgeon, three seamen, and our Esquimaux guests. AVe reached their station, called Niok- hunagriu, at eleven, being the place where we had pitched our tent on the 28th of last June. We found there were two packages of fish, weighing, jointly, but 180 pounds; we nevertheless paid the stipulated price. They began immediately to erect us a house, which they finished in forty-five minutes. We were not long in cooking a warm meal, which was very acceptable after a walk of sixteen miles through very rough ice. Though rough, it was, how- ever, good beyond the place where Commander Ross had left his convoy ; which it was gratifying to know. The men having for- gotten their blankets, we were supplied with skins by our good- natured friends. At noon, two of them set off at a great pace, with their sledge and six dogs, to fetch a third depdt offish, which we understood to be at a lake far away. They were to have another knife for it ; and it was well w orth our while to wait for such a supply. We es^amined their hut in the mean time, which was large enough for TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3 65 three families, being eighteen feet in diameter; but it was so much decayed as to show that it had been occupied from a very early period in the winter. We were very kindly received by the women, and found an old one, sick, or thought to be so, to whom the surgeon administered some medicine. It was the woman of many husbands ; and she repaid her physic by the stone which is used in striking fire, which was, in reality, a valuable present to make, on her part. They offered us water, which is a scarce article at this season, as it requires much oil to melt any quantity of snow ; together with salmon, which we took, that we might not offend them ; returning some trifling presents. Inquiries about families and new-born children were repaid by questions respecting our own people ; one of the children had been named Aglugga, in compliment apparently to Commander Ross, whose Esquimaux patronymic it was. The presence of fifty seal- skins proved that their hunting had been successful; and, besides the flesh visible in the hut, there were depdts in the snow. They had further killed two musk oxen and two bears, hoping that we might come to purchase the former ; in defect of which, they had been eaten. Of the bear-skins they had made dresses ; but they had nothing of this nature to sell at present. The rising of a breeze in the evening made our hut so cold that we were obliged to construct a crooked passage for it ; and, after all, it w as but at 25° minus, at night, while our messengers had not relumed with the fish. We were obliged to amuse ourselves with playing at the Esquimaux game of bear and dogs, with the children, to the very great delight of all the party. At midnight the two young men returned with the fish, which were very fine, and weighed, altogether, a hundred and fifty pounds. The promised knife gave great satisfaction. Their own appear- ance, and that of their dogs, showed that they had travelled a long way, as they had also been absent fourteen hours, which we com- puted to be equivalent to thirty-six miles. We sent them to bed ; and, at four {April 23), our men rose to prepare a meal before our departure, and to get ready the sledge. Returning from the pursuit of some grouse, I found that our fish had been plundered by the dogs, and that, including what had been consumed by ourselves and the Esquimaux, we had now but two hundred and fifty pounds. This, however, together with our own '^: <^ ^^3 ,i) I' b'(>] 366 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY P« t I Stores, was. more than our men, not very strong, were able to trans port; so that I bargained with one of the two natives to aid us with three dogs, for which service, and a spear which he had made, he was to receive a file. We set out accordingly, after presenting the women with a needle each. It was a fine day, though the breeze was strong ; fortunately, however, being with us, it was not inconvenient. After four miles. we arrived at a high cape called Neokouak, and then crossed the inlet by a nearer and belter way than we had taken in coming, thus also saving a mile. Halting about half way on our journey, for some rest and refreshment, we were obliged to dispj?nse with water, for want of time to thaw the snow. We were glad to find that the whole bottom of this extensive inlet, which contains the salmon fish- eries, was covered with good ice, so that, from this place a^ least, the journey would be easy as far as the first great river. liy three o'clock we had arrived at the ship, with our cargo safe. It was a valuable one, because it contained fourteen days' provisions : which, being fresh, allowed us also to economize the lemon-juice, which was the scarcest article in our stores. It being the King's birthday, the flags were all displayed ; an exhi- bition which seemed much to delight our native friends ; while the men had extra allowance, and so forth, according to custom. One of the natives, being invited into the cabin, informed us of some of the affairs of his coterie. The widow of the dead man had imme- diately obtained a new husband ; because she had five children. The "' because" would not be a very good reason in England, it is cer- tain ; the ready made family of another is not often a source of much comfort; and that it is not a valuable property needs not be said. But here, the five children were a commodity of price, a great for- tune, a source of profit instead of loss, and of happiness instead ot vexation and torment. Even at eight they begin to be serviceable : in a few years they are able to maintain more than themselves ; and when the parents are old, be they step-children, or entirely and ab- solutely adopted, as is also here the usage, it is on them that the helpless aged depend for that support which is a matter of course. There are no poor-rates in this country. Whenever this shall happen, during the progress of knowledgi and legislation, the children will cease to maintain even them selves, there will be an end to adoption, the widow of five children ..H, 10 THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 307 will advertise in vain for a husband, Ihey will all go to the work- house, and they who can catch seals will labour to maintain the idle, till the day shall arrive when all will starve together. It is a L topian state of things when she of five children is the best of wives, and can take her choice of the young men : it is more than Utopian, when population is not poverty, but wealth : when men really will labour, and when the labour of a man will do. what it always can, or might, support, not only himself, but those who must depend on him till they can, and will, labour for themselves. Let the wise of wiser lands travel hither and take les- sons of wisdom from the savages in seal-skins, who drink oil, and eat their fish raw. Of another portion of their political economy I must not speak with approbation : yet there is some philosophical fitness in it too. when coupled with that which has preceded. We must not pull a system of legislation to pieces, and then say that this or the other law is a bad one. Let the whole be contemplated in a mass, and looked at in all its bearings, before we presume to decide what is right : that is generally right which is most filling. It is the custom to interchange wives. If the Romans did the same, under very other civilization, I fear that their reasons are indefensible, though 1 need not here inquire what those were. In this country, the views of the cilizens may be physiologically philosophical, for aught that 1 know to the contrary, though it remained to discover whether they proved sound in practice. The people thus consider- ed that they should have more children : it is a good thing to have good reasons for doing what may not be very right. Our absence had occupied the two last days of the week, and brought back Sunday [April 24). It was clear and very cold ; the thermometer being at plus 5" in the day, but falling to minus 12" at night. It was a more acceptable day of rest than usual : but having removed the snow from the deck, we were less comfortable below. Our Esquimaux guide returned ; promising to send back his friend with a seal, and some blubber which we had lost. {April 2u) He came with the seal accordingly, and had found the blubber also; remaining all night. A breeze made it very cold, though the thermometer was plus G° in the day, and not more than minus 10° at night. It is probable that we were already beginning to find, in our persons, a new scale of agreeable temperature, thousih 1 T^ ,"|#ifT'i V Vm m4| ?^;'a mm r 368 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY !«■ %i the extreme cold had not very long ceased. Physicians ought to explain these matters. Is it that the body generates more heat in cold weather, and the more as it is colder? If it did not, how could we be as warm at minus 550" as at plus 10° or 20"; putting out of the question all casualties from winds or an exposure to them. But, be this explained as it may, why does the body change its standard, its opinions I may say, in such a manner? That which was not disagreeable a month since, was now intolerable : could a cold of minus 52" occur in July, with a day temperature of 70° plus, it is not easy to conceive what the feelings would be. {Jpril 26) After a night temperature of minus 16°, the day reached to plus 10; and the sun, even at this very low point of the positive scale, had a powerful effect on the snow, which was melt- ing during four hours. At night the thermometer was at zero. There was a strong gale with snow drift on the following day {April 27), and at midnight it was at plus 6°. On the subsequent night {April 28) it was again minus 16° ; the gale and snow having continued all the day. The two last days {April 29, 30) of this month exhibited many changes of weather and of temperature, and it ended on midnight of the thirtieth, calm and clear, at minus 9°. The summary of April is soon told. The temperature took at last a more favourable turn than had been expected, and the mean proved minus 6.44; the highest and the lowest being plus 30 and minus 215. The several scientific observations had been continued. On the last day of the month, the thickness of the ice was six feet, while it was about seven last year : the reason apparently being, that the surface had been more deeply covered by snow in tliis season than the preceding, and thus better protected from the cold air. The health of the men was still good, and the supply of fresh provisions which I had procured was likely to maintain them in an efficient state. We had at length found out the long wished for natives, and at last also had been able to commence our travelling by land. TO THE ARCTIC REGIOISS. 369 CHAPTER XXXVIU. MAY— COMMANDER ROSS's JOURNEY. (yVtty 1, 1831) The temperature ranged today between 2" and 12" plus, as if a decidedly favourable change had taken place. Afler church service, Commander Ross returned, having left his party about twenty miles off to the northward. He came for assistance to be sent to them ; the mate Taylor had been frost-bitten in one foot, so that he could not walk, while it had become necessary for the other four men to draw him, although they were themselves much fatigued. All hands were therefore sent to meet them ; and while the mate was likely to be disabled for the remainder of the summer, the others seemed much in want of a week's rest. Commander Ross reported, that from his party having been affected by snow blindness, he did not reach the sea at Awalutyak till the sixth day, Monday, when he proceeded to look for the passage, examining minutely every creek, and traversing the whole line of coast on foot. Thus he determined, without hesitation, thai there was no passage here to the western sea. It was plain therefore, that the sea which the natives supposed to lead to Neitchillee, was only the eastern sea, or part of the gulf at this place, between Port Logan and Elizabeth harbour : whence it was plain that there could be no passage nearer than the latitude of 71" l>o', where there is another great inlet. This, unfortunately, was too far away to be examined by land from our present position ; and thence had we much reason to regret that we could not make a farther progress in the last autumn. All that we could now do, was to examine the line of coast to the westward of the peninsula ; and it was deter- mined that this should form our next expedition. The farther report of Commander Ross was, that he had found the ice very rough, and travelling difficult ; that they had journeyed 11)0 miles, and that it was very cold, since the thermometer was as low as 18" minus ; while they had encountered two severe snow 18.. to ;i w \m: 1^1 i u fii I I I it S70 SECOND VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY Storms. He further remarked that the pressure on the sea ice hiu\ been very great, many Iar(;e pieces having been forced up the rocks to the height of forty feet. They saw no animal but one raven. But his narrative must be given in his own words. CHAPTER XXXIX. NARRATIVE OF C0M3IAT»DER ROSS. 'n {April 20, 1831) It was a matter to be regretted that we could now no longer obtain the aid of the Esquimaux, who had formerly Leen of such essential service to us, by means of their sledges and dogs, and by the great ease and expedition with which they raised our temporary encampments. We had nevertheless gained some experience ; and the middle of April made us anxious to visit Aw - wuk-too-teak once more, as my former sight of it was very imper- fect, and an accurate knowledge of this spot was essential to our future operations. We left the ship, therefore, at three in the morning of the 20lh oi April; forming a party of five, with a temporary convoy from the surgeon and some other men, who quitted us at 8 o'clock. In a shori time I perceived recent traces of the Esquimaux ; and as it was important to obtain their guidance to Aw-wuk-too-teak, if possible, I followed the footsteps, while my party proceeded along the land. I thus reached Neak-kog-nak, where I saw through my spyglass a snow hut, whence there came out three men, who ad- vanced quickly with their knives, which however they threw away as soon as they saw me lay down my gun, then giving me the usual welcome. One of them was the old man Pow-weet-yah, the death of whose boy had caused the contest between us in the previous season, and whom we had not seen since that time ; the other two were his sons. By their own account they had waited for us last summer, as they had promised, with abundance of salmon and reindeer; and were much surprised A being told that iij'* TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 37 1 the ice prevented us from making way to the northward, since they assured us that there had been much clear water at Ow- weet-te-week . We learned that they had been here eight days on their way to a place on the western sea, called Neak-kog-na-geoo, and that they intended to travel across the country, by a chain of lakes leading to the sea, to the northward of Nei-tyel-le. The observations made during the two preceding winters, had led me to suspect that the magnetic pole lay in that direction, and at no great distance from our ship ; and I was therefore very desirous to examine the spot to which they were bound. I prevailed on them, in consequence, to let me accompany them whenever they should set out for this place, which would not be till we had finished our j)resent journey, and had returned to the ship ; but I could nol prevail on them to attend me to Aw-wuk-too-teak, though they were willing to wait my time, in the vicinity. They informed me that they had caught many salmon in the Stanley river during the preceding autumn, which they had de- posited in the usual way, and were willing to sell to us, on my giving them a note to Captain Ross, which was to serve as a bill in payment. {.April 21) The fog was so thick at four in the morning that we could see but a few yards, yet we departed at six, as they were averse to go to the Victory till we had departed. Our first attempts were much impeded by this dense fog, but at nine it became clear, and we continued our journey up the inlet of An-ne-re-ak-to, and thence along the valley of the Stanley, encamping at last on the north bank of the lake at its head. [April 22) Our departure on this morning was again delayed , by fog and snow, till nine, when we crossed the high ridge which separates the two lakes at this place, yet with much toil, from the depth of the new snow. At three in the afternoon, the sun shone out, and with such effect on the white ground, that some of the men were very shortly seized with inflammation in the eyes, so that we wc^'e compelled to halt at six and encamp for the night. Our posi- tion was on the north-west bank of the lake ; and though all the usual means of checking this inflammation were adopted, three of the party were so blinded by its eff^ects, that we were obliged to rest during the whole of the day. The latitude here was 70° 29' 10". and the longitude 0° 33' west of the ship. I- * I Itv 11 .JtlN'ife*^- 372 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I' *»-<» i; m 11 > (Jpril 23) The sun on this morning was so bright, that though our companions were cured, I did not think it prudent to go on during the day. We therefore deferred our departure till seven in the evening, intending to travel by night, to avoid the future chance of the same inconvenience. {April 24) At two in the morning we reached the spot where our hul had been built in the preceding year. In spite of a fresh breeze froni the north accompanied by some drift snow, the weather was very fine, and, although with much labour, we at last succeeded in surmounting with our sledge the hills that lay between us and the lake Aw-wuk-too-teak. We had finished this journey by six in the morning, and encamped on the north shore of the lake, about a quarter of a mile from the exit of the river which flows from it to the sea. I here ascended the hill of Ac-cood-le-ruk-luk, and the morning being clear, obtained a very wide view, including the entrance of the inlet which had so long been the object of our pursuit. It appeared to be about five miles distant, but did not seem very extensive. Some observations which I procured, gave the latitude at 70° 38' 32", and the longitude at 0.40' west of the ship. Above our encampment rose the hill 11-low-na-lig, and here was a snow hut in ruins that had formed the solitary winter residence of Now- yen-noo-ah and his wife. {April 2U) At eight in the evening, we proceeded down the course of the river to its estuary, under considerable suffering from the lameness of some of the men, consequent on the freezing of their boots, and from the blindness of another. The termination of this inlet being visible from an eminence which I now ascended, and at no great distance, I caused the men to encamp, and proceeded with Abernelhy to examine it. It was not that I here expected to find that opening which the Esquimaux had described to us as leading to the western sea at Nei-tyel-le, because that one, by their account, was so wide, that in some places, one of the shores could not be seen from the opposite side, though the land on both was high. Yet we had not examined the present one when we passed down the coast in 1829, and as it was the only one that had been neglected, I thought it necessary to make a minute investigation of it, that we might not be detained for this purpose when we should proceed northward in the ship during the ensuing summer. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 373 {Jpril'iQ) This survey was finished in a satisfactory manner by- seven in the morning of the 2Gth ; so as to unite this pari of the coast with that which we had explored from the ship. The latitude of our encampment was 70° 42' 2", and the longitude 0'*40' 1 " west of the ship. In the course of this walk I found the monuments which we had erected in August, 1829, but the Esquimaux had intermeddled with them, and taken away the coins that we had deposited. 3re, as in so many other places on this shore, the rocks consisted of red gra- nite and limestone, the western side displaying the former, and the eastern one the latter. The view seaward exhibited a level of smooth ice to the verge of the horizon, where, however, there were sharp points indicating a formation belonging to the preceding year. Having thus accomplished the main object of our journey, I de- termined to return to the ship by the sea-coast, so as to survey this shore more accurately than we had previously been able to do. We therefore set out at half-past five in the afternoon, and in spite of a dense fog, contrived to keep on along the shore. On the twenty- seventh of April, at one in the morning, we reached the entrance of Port Elizabeth, and found our progress much facilitated by the smooth state of the ice, though the snow was often knee deep. A strong breeze, with much drift, compelled us however to halt at length, at four o'clock, on the southern bank of the isthmus, when there came on the most violent gale, attended by drifting snow, that we had ever witnessed, lasting till the noon of the twenty-eighth. {April 28) It then moderated, and the weather became fine in the afternoon ; releasing us from that narrow confinement in our snow burrow, which we always felt to be more painful than even a hard day's work. We contrived to proceed on our journey at eight, but the evening was very cold; while, by midnight, the wind which had been behind us, shifted so as to blow directly in our faces. We would willingly, therefore, have halted, but our provisions had been so much reduced beyond our calculation, in consequence of the de- tentions we had undergone, that we were obliged to proceed, and thus continued our journey till six in the morning of the twenty- ninth. {April 29) One of the party was now found to have been frost- bitten in the foot, in a very severe manner ; but by applying the usual remedies the injury was checked, though with considerable couse- u,'" ''iiii I' I fT H . iWS vk^^km 1 wa.. ',; J , .174 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY k ^' ^'1 'M m qucnt suffering from iiiHammation. This caused our detenlion till the tliirlicti), al noon, when we contrived to place the inuii on a sledjje and proceed towards the ship. At first the Iravellini; was easj ; hut, on rounding a point of land exposed to the north, the ice was found very rugged and apparently impassahle, heiiiu heaped up in a confusion of piled blocks, often reaching to the height of 30 feel. From the lop of one of these ridges, however, wc could see the level ice at the distance of a few miles, which encou- raged us to attempt the crossing of this obstruction. It proved lu he five or six miles in breadth; yet, by dint of exertions and fatigue, such as we had never yet made and experienced, wc succeeded in crossing it, though not without much suffering to our disabled companion, from the concussions which the sledge underwent. This portion alone of our journey occupied us twelve hours. ( Ma?/ 1 ) Three of the parly had been thus completely exhausted, so thai we were compelled to halt al two in ihe morning of the first of May, about three miles to the southward of Andrew Uoss island. But as our provisions were now nearly expended, and as it was necessary that the disabled man should get medical assistance as soon as possible, while in addition, the seamen cok-d not proceed for some hours, I set out alone for the ship, thai I might send some relief to the parly as soon as possible. The distance was only twenty miles, but the road being bad. I did nol arrive on board till eleven in the morning. All who were able for the journey were then dispatched to their shipmates, and soon after midnight the whole were safe on board. Taylor, who had been the frost-bitten man, had sJiTered much from his con- veyance ; but the care of our surgeon soon relieved him from the most painful effects of his injury. Of the rest, Richard Wall was ill for some days, in consequence of fatigue, but experienced no ultimate bad effects. m TO Tilt AUCriC REGIONS. 97 » >^'-t ■ L l^^ln ^1 ^^■ ll 1 * «l » ! •■H P CMAPTEK XL. J0U1\>VL OF M\\— A JOUR5ET IN COMPAM WITH TIIK iHATiVliS. (I^/ai/ 2, I83I) Two of the natives had arrived yesterday with the promised supply of a seal, which weighed 173 pounds, hrinn[in|; also five larye fishes called by them crkalook-ait-loo ; when, inform- ing us thai they had another store of fish for sale, they were sent to fetch it. The weather was cold to day, with the thermometer about zero. On Tuesday ( lUf/y 3) the natives returned with a seal, but only with a small supply of fish, as they had not been able to find their hoard ; there were but sixty-five pounds. (Moy '\) The temperature rose to plus 20", and the mean was i». The two men left us, with a promise to bring us more salmon, and a seal, in three days. They were to fish here in the autumn, and at Neilchillee in the winter. Our new cooking apparatus proved elfective : its advantage being, that it would require no fuel but tallow or oil. ( May 15, G) The ice near us, being cut through, was five feet and a half thick : llie temperature at night zero. On Satur- day [May 7) a party was sent to bring back some stores that had been left behind to make room for the lame mate; and thus ended the week. [May 8) After church we received a visit from some native families. One of the men undertook to guide us to Neilchillee, by the lakes, in eight days; his reward to be a pole. Another, who had re- mained on board, went home on the following {May 9), pro- mising to return in four days. Neither on these two days nor the succeeding, was there much change ; though the mean {May 10) temperature was {f^'adually increasing. {May 11) There was a strong gale, with drift snov^^, this day, which settled into a stiff breeze on the following {May 12). The native returned, but had nothing to sell except some clothing. {May \o) The preparations for travelling were in progress; and among other things, provisions for twelve men during three weeks \''U\^ mf- '^r i3^ s .At?^. fl f m I » 37« SECOID VOTfAGE OF DISCOVERT were ma»lc r(M«ly. {}Ini/H) The weather promiHcd Ijclter. ns (hi* thermometer now rose to the freezing point at noon, being 12" ul ni|;ht. {jffay 115) Many tracks of reindeer were seen hy the men in their Sunday walk : these animals were apparently returning for the summer. Monday morning was employed in preparing every thing for our journey ; and, at eight in the evening, the first sledge, with the pontoon and three weeks' provisions, and the seeond with the sameipiantily of provisions alone, each calculated for six men, set out to explore the second chain of lakes and the west coast of the peninsula, as far to the northward as it was possible to reach. These j)arties were to be guided through the lakes by two of llui natives. Calculating that wc should reach the west coast in seven days, our design was, that the second division under Commander Ross should continue their investigations, while the first returned for a su|>ply of provisions, then contriving to come back to the former by the shortest route. It was our farther purpose to obtain from the natives some more geographical information, and also, supplies of provisions and clothing. {Moi/ 16) We made nine miles before midday; the weather being fine, but cold. On the next {May 17), we arrived at the na- tive huts at Neotaknag; preceding the sledges about an hour, and pitching our tent. Our promised guides were to be ready in the evening ; and informed us that many reindeer had passed lately, followed by a wolf. We had formerly found among them, a piece of a large spar, some iron hoops, and some stores, and had sus- pected that they had been either stolen from us, or sold by some of the men; but our disagreeable suspicions were now removed, and the mystery solved. They were articles that we had formerly thrown overboard to make room, and they, had been found by those people. I ascended a hill about 800 feet high, to examine the country ; and, by evening, our guides were ready, punctual (o their promises. Our march had a very nomadic and new app^rance, as the lino of it also was somewhat picturesque. The mother of the two men led the way in advance, with a staff in her hand; my sledge follow- ing, with the dogs, holding one of their children and some of their goods, and guided by a wife with a child at her back. Another native sledge followed in the same manner; next to which was TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 377 Commnndcr Ross's, and luslly the utlier Fsqiiimniix Hlr(l(;<> : the rcnr being; l)ron(;lit up hy a native ('rawinii; two skins of oil, ami, at a distance, onrselves with one of the little hoys. Many halts were made, as otir hnnlens were heavy, the snow tl('e|), and the ire rouj^h. ( !Uay 18) We had with diflieulty persuaded our guides to persist, when we at last pitehed our tent, and the natives ereeled their snow huts. It then came on to blow hard, with snow, till noon. We hud now passed across the hotloni of the spacious hay and the mouth of the preal river, named after Lord Lindsay, beini; the place where we had obtained the salmon last year; andbeinii; thus about three miles f< om the main, and close within a ranfje of rocky islands lying in a north and south direction. On each hand the land was high, and the mountain Kakoloktok before us. Our course had hitherto been as nearly as possible to the southward, and the dis- tance which wc had travelled was fourteen miles. In the evening, all was again ready, and Commander Ross de- parted for the mountain just named, to take angles, while the march was renewed. As we advanced, the inlet became narrower, an SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The ice on the lake was not so deeply covered with snow as that on the sea, but it bore no marks of dissolution. We proceeded along the west side of it, where a high precipice of the mountain descended, and pitched our tent at the distance of three miles from the river, close to the huts of the guides who had preceded us. In spite of all our caution and care, one of the men sulfered from ;i frozen toe, and was of little use during the remainder of the journey; he had concealed the injury so long that we could do little good : the similar accident of another man was easily remedied, as he had given timely notice of the injury. The natives were here employed in making holes to deposit their heavy stores, of provisions and other matters; and by this we were much lightened. They also made some sledges of the fresh-water ice ; the shape being that of a shallow elliptical basin. Two of these, fastened together, contained a considerable quantity of their goods, and could carry one of the women on the top of all : while, though very heavy, they travelled with considerable rapidity. It was not till nine, however, that they were ready to march. when we continued along the west side of the lake, the old woman still leading the way : finding the sides high and rooky, its breadth varying from one to two miles, and its direction more westerly. At eleven we reached a strait about a hundred yards: wide, precipitous on the south side, and having, on the other, a low point covered with circles of stones. These had been the summer tents of the present party, and here was deposited a store for them on their return. We were informed that it was an excellent station for catching the lake trout, but that the sea fish could not ascend sd far, in consequence of the strength of the current in the narnnv strait of the river just described. While our men took their refreshment and rest, the natives made a hole in the ice for the purpose of fishing. We were surprised to find it oidy five inches thick, being within ten yards of the shore. and in only six feet depth of water, whereof course it ought to have been thicker than in the middle of (he lake, at which part, however, although we could there find no bottom, it was two feet in thickness. The temperature of (he water was however but just above 32". It was attempted to explain this appearance, by supposing the setting of a current here from west to east until a very late period of the season ; but as there was no apparent descent, this solution was not I* '%» TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 379 vtry satisfactory. If no fish were taken, wo at least saw tlio method of catching iheni. A ball of ivory or bone, with four small pieces attached to it, is fastened to the end of a siring attached to a stick, and the lisherman holds this hi his left hand, a few feet below the ice, keeping these balls in constant motion, to attract the fish, which is then speared by the barbed machine formerly described. {May 20) After an hour's rest we proceeded along the lake, which was now found to contain many inlets or bays, and several islands, till we arrived at another strait, which was also a fishing station, and, some time after, at a third, near an island, where there were the remains of many huts for the same purpose. Here we pitched our tent, and the native who accompanied us built his house. There were tracks of reindeer, and we saw a wolf. At eight in the evening we resumed our journey, and came to some low land, of a different character, consisting of Hat limestone; the pre- ceding rocks having been of granite. The snow was very deep, and the thermometer at night fell below zero. Here some of the natives in our company became unwilling to travel at night, and they consequently halted, and set about building a hut, promising to overtake us the next day, while one of them, with his wife, consented to go on with us. After eight miles we thus came to an island where we found the remains of an Esquimaux tent, and here one of the natives remained. We proceeded on the twenty-first of May, through a very de- solate tract, guided by some stones which the natives had set up for that purpose, passing several small islands, and finally reaching the end of this great lake at six o'clock, after a journey, on it, of three days. We encamped, and saw many reindeer, with two wolves; but they were all too cautious to allow us to approach them. It blew hard from the north-eastward, wilh snow, and was very cold, though the thermometer was not below 20". This great lake was named after the justly celebrated Admiral Von Krusenstern. {May 22) The gale did notallow us to move; nor would t!ie Esqui- maux have consented. The thermometer sank to 3". The next morning {May 23) the wind abated, but still these people would not go till their companions had joined them, which they could not have done during the bad weather of the preceding day. Nothing was to be seen but a vast expanse of snow; covering a flat country, so low near the water, that we could not discover where the boundary was. rr 380 SECOIND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY "fttfi We learned from one of the men, that there was a third chain of lakes to the westward, emptying themselves into the eastern sea by the great river. At four, the two men who had remained behind came up, and built a hut; informing us that there was another lake to the east- ward, ha ;ing the same name as the one which we were next to reach, viz. Tishagriahiu, which I named after my friend Captain Jekyll. R. N. While they were preparing to set out, we had time lo examine a new sledge which they had brought up, and which we found no less beautiful than extraordinary. It was of the shape of an ordinary one, but made entirely of ice, runners and all, and, while very neatly made, having a most delicate appearance. Being transparent, it seemed indeed to be a sledge of crystal, while it was strong enough to bear the weight of all the stores which the owner had heaped on it. Being all ready, we departed at eleven o'cloik. {May 24) ^^ e now passed over several necks of land, and across some small lakes, guided by marks which were so obscured by the snow, that our guides were often obliged lo slop and consult together. At twelve we crossed a river, and entered a small lake ; and, at four, passed a ridge of land; arriving after this, at a valley filled with snow, and containing a lake, out of which issued a river, along the course of which we went till we had reached the expanse of water which it served to drain. ^^ e found it to be about two miles long, and that it was joined, at no great distance, to another, by means of a river which united some more in this series, so as lo constitute a general declivity and drainage. These two were named after Professor Hanstein. At length we finished this day's journey, after having travelled fifteen miles, pitching our tents at last, about ten o'clock. The land over which we had thus travelled was, once more, of granite : the river which we had passed in this journey was three hundred yards wide. The latitude of our position was 69° 45' 20", and the longitude 95°. It was soon necessary, however, to move again; two of the na- tives whom we had left behind now joining us. Here, as at every place where we had stopped, they deposited a store, to await them on their return; but it was with much difficulty that one of thera could be persuaded to proceed, which I believe he would not have done, had he not feared to lose the promised reward. We saw some wolves, together with a raven and an owl : a wolf had been L*' - TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 381 fired at, before this, without success. The temperature at mid- night was 14° plus. {May 215) VV hejifan our journey at this time, with a cloudy sky and a fresh westerly breez . Crossing a small lake, we arrived at a ridge separating those wlich we had passed after leaving the great lake Krusenstern, entering first on a very narrow lake, and then into the channel of a river that led into a larger one two miles off. Halting here for an hour, we proceeded, at five, and crossing another ridge for four miles, arrived at the great lake just mentioned. This lay east and west, and seemed ten miles long; but the snow did not allow its breadth to be ascertained. The land was part of Boothia Felix, and there were several low islands at the east end. It was said to abound in fish ; the salmon entering it from the western sea, through a great river. Hence, after walking twelve hours, and having travelled over a distance of eighteen miles, we pitched our tents at its northern side. It snowed heavily aH this day, and the thermometer was at 50° at noon. {May 26) We started at one in the morning, and keeping a west- erly direction, reached the end of the lake in two hours; when, passing a ridge of land again, we came to a river called after the Crown Princess of Sweden, and having crossed it, arrived at the channel of the great river. After a needful halt, we came to its mouth, which was at the bottom of an inlet three miles long. It was that which had been formerly surveyed by Commander Ross. The land was here rugged and precipitous, and, as was here rare, it was somewhat romantic : the place where we first stopped was called Padliak ; and the entrance of the inlet had been ascertained to be thirty-five miles from it, west by north. At this place we saw a herd of twelve reindeer. {Mat/ 27) Here we also found three families of our acquaintance, in two huts; but were vexed to learn that Kablala had departed some time ago, that Ikmallik's party was beyond Neitchillee, and that we had no chance of seeing either. We were glad to find, however, that they had been very successful in killing deer last winter; and we bought a deer-skin and a pair of trousers, with a skin of oil for fuel, as our own w^as nearly expended. At ten at night we again started : the plan being, that Commander Ross should explore the coast to the westward, and myself that to the eastward, returning by Padliak. As the former had fifteen days' •^Wrd: M" 'liJ 1 I. .'182 SECOISD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY .■,-.} <.,) t j)rovisions, I settled that they would be able to travel outwards du- ring at least six of those. But as I Iheu took leave of them, so must 1 now defer any account of their proceedings till the time arrives for giving their own report of their journey and its results. After parting, we proceeded onward ourselves; first passing an inlet formerly examined, after that a valley with a river, and then, lastly, (]ape Isabella, where we arrived at midnight, through very thick and foggy weather. {May 28) We pitched about the middle of Padliak bay ; but the sun being obscured, could not well make out our course. Ne- vertheless we started at eight, though the men complained much of their eyes; guessing our route as well as we could, amid the dark- ness and confusion which was produced by the density of the fog. At midnight we arrived at an opening resembling that which leads from Tadliak to the great lake ; where, finding no natives, 1 deter- mined 'o proceed, as soon as we had made the necessary halt, since our provisions were now becoming short. But having some time on my hands, in consequence, I here repeated the observations which I had formerly made for the purpose of determining the height of this lake above the level of the sea. {May 29) Our tent was on an elevation whence I could obtain a good vie"' as soon as the weather should became clear, but there was a gale with snow, lasting all the day. In the evening it moderated, and enabled me to see Cape Isabella on the western sea, and the high land of Shag-a-voke to the east; but I could not make out whether we had come by the eastern or the western lake. Nevertheless we continued our journey, and found a tolerable road to the lake which was nearest to us; but the new and deep snow had so altered the appearance of the land, that I scarcely recog- nised any of the objects with which I had formerly been so well acquainted. We however contrived to make our way to this lake, whichever it was; gladly finding on it a surface far more practicable for travelling than the rough ice of the land which we had hitherlo laboured through, under no small fatigue. Having thus far suc- ceeded in getting upon a more agreeable road, if road it might be called, we proceeded along its south-eastern side, seeing a great many snow buntings in the course of this walk , and well pleased to meet with these harbingers of the spring-time of this wintry land. A spring indeed, of which the migrations of those and the other TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 383 (inimals which instinct drives to these regions, is tlic only sign, since all else is deep winter. Why they come, is hetter known to lliemselves than to me, since we conUl never at this early season discover where they found their food; but it is hest known to Ilini uho directs their flights, and who. as He cannot deceive them, has assuredly provided for them those stores which He had ordered them to seek, that the table which He thus has furnished for them in the wilderness shall not be wasted for want of guests. {May 30) The weather was calm and fine till four; and at eight we pitched our tent on the land, having travelled fourteen miles : ,ifter which it became so thick, that we could not proceed. We however started again at eight; and, after some difficulty, fonnd the valley which led to Shag-a-voke. We had seen some rein- deer, and two hares; but conld get no observation of the sun. I was more fortunate afterwards in shooting two of the latter, and ;i grouse. I here repeated, once more, the observations which I had so recently made for the second time on the altitude of the land at this place, being very desirous to know- what the elevation of this tract was above the level of the sea. It was a question of more interest than may at first apj)ear, since this was the valley, if valley I may term it, which formed the most brief and perfect land com- munication between the eastern and western seas, which, in other circumstances and in a very different climate, might, under the aid of art, have formed that " north-west passage." of which, if I mis- take not, we now know as much as is soon likely to be known, and far more than will ever be of any use. The result was to determine that it was thirteen feet above the level of the western sea. Had this region been thirty degrees farther to the southward, a canal com ~ ny might have effected that " passage" which nature has now .nought fit to refuse. [May 31) We crossed the gulf of Shag-a-voke at one in the morn- ing, and left the boat for Commander Ross's party. George Baxter, one of the men, was ill ; but being much lightened by leaving this load, we contrived to proceed, and pitched our tent on the sea, ahout twenty-six miles from the ship, at seven o'clock. It soon came to blow hard, with snow, and as we could not get our bed skins dried, were not very comfortable, though well sheltered from the storm. This was nearly the place w here we had encamped last year ; and :sf' 384 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ¥ "I' ,'»i It- ■'• J t, Ml we could now trace the dlfFerence between the former and the pre- sent state of things ; while what we saw was hy no means flattering to our future progress. At that time, the land was nearly bare, and now it was deeply clothed with snow, while the thermometer was also ten degrees lower. It had then been covered with pools, and there was now not a drop of water to be procured ; while, even on the rocks, where it should have abounded, all was ice. Tlie only hope which we had to balance against this sinister aspect, was, that the storms might break up the sea ice in the bay, and thus bring on our liberation sooner than now seemed very likely. After noon it moderated, and the snow ceased, while it was suc- ceeded by frost. It was therefore resolved to make an effort to reach the ship, as the wind was behind us ; for which end I pro- ceeded in advance, that I might send my party assistance from the men who had remained on board. With all my efforts, however, 1 did not succeed in arriving at our home until ten. I had been tempted to pursue a deer, an object well worth a chace to us, and as the road was now very bad, from the state of the ice, I also expe- rienced many severe falls, adding to this delay. It blew a gale when I arrived, and was very thick. The men whom I had left made their appearance at two, having left the sledge on the way. They were all ill, or utterly fatigued : I was the only one of the party who was quite well. Thus ended a journey which had lasted from the seventeenth of the month of May till its termination. During this walk, I had a farther opportunity of comparing the uncommon severity of the present season with the state of the pre- ceding. I had found no clear water along the shore, while it had been abundant last year at the same period : not a single bird was to be seen on the precipices, while, in the former spring, they had occupied their breeding places and were abundant ; a mark, I need scarcely say, of a winter, in severity and duration, which does not only relate to the climate in which we now were, but to that from which these animals migrate; thus indicating the prevalence of a bad and protracted cold season over all the regions of northern America. The journal kept on board during my absence is merely that of the weather, and does not require to be detailed. For both, for the absent and those at home, the circumstances were nearly the same; and the several sick men were better. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 385 The summary of May does not present much. Its weather had been a great contrast to that of the same month in the last year. The sun had scarcely made any impression on the snow, aad no water had yet been seen. The maximum temperature had been plus 36", the lowest minus 16", and the mean plus 16". Com- mander Ross's first journey had determined that there was no passage into the western sea at Awatutyak and therefore none to the southward of 72". This journey had been a very unfortunate one for the mate Taylor, who was expected to lose part of his right foot; and the rest were so much fatigued that they were scarcely recovered in fourteen days. The report of health for this month is therefore an unpleasant one; but there was no threatening of scurvy, and to this, the supplies of fish, procured from the natives, had essentially contributed. My own journey had enabled me to extend the geography of this part of the country, in spite of the obstacles produced by the weather, which had also prolonged the intended eight days to eleven. Game, it may be remarked, was still rare; and this was a more interesting matter as related to the season, than as concerned our amusement or our supplies. The southern animals were indeed migrating to the northward, but in no great numbers; and they were the calendar of the spring, as I have already remarked, if indeed we had not warning enough, in the surrounding waste of snow, that it was not yet arrived. T^f' I. If yt -I, hM CHAPTER XLI. TRANSACTIONS IN JUNE — RETURN OF COMMANDER ROSS FROM UlS EXPEDITION. {June 1, 1831) The weather was cold on this day and the follow- ing {June 2), and on the latter it was stormy. The sledge was brought in from the place where it had been left. The lowest point to which the thermometer sank waj> 19". We should not have oc- 19. ' ' Kl L.i U I ' i*ife «:<«(» :'*ii ;W6 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY casion, it was now hoped, to register its negative scale, fur some lime to come. It was a bad commencement of this month, to find that it had ho- come necessary to ampntate part of the foot of the mate Tayh)r, which was mortified. This was accordingly performed by the sur- jTcon, with credit to both parties ; that of snfFering well, to the pa- tient. The other frost-bitten men seemed likely to escape for a lriflin|][ sore or two. On this I mnst be allowed to make a remark : it is not intended for the purpose of praising my own management, but that future travellers in northern climates, not less than navigators like our- selves, may see what a very little care and attention can effect. It is very certain, that no travellers, under any circumstances, nor any navigators, among all those who have wintered in northern cli- mates, have ever encountered the w inters of a country more severe in its temperature and its storms, nor in the duration of such low tem- peratures, and (he frequency of such storms. Thus was it also our lot to pass, not one winter or one year, far less one or a few months, as most of those who have experienced the cold of these climates have done, but a long succession of years, of which I may safely say, that nearly the whole is one long winter ; while, with little exception, as the records of our long detention in the ice shows, those years were, even in this ever wintry climate, seasons of un- common severitv. Nor were we sparing of our toils out of doors, as my journal has every where proved. Our men, like ourselves, travelled as mucii as was requisite, and laboured in the open air, without restriction or fear, on every object and for every purpose that our duties de- manded, even as if we had been in England. No service was ever shunned or countermanded, from fears of the weather, except un- der those very peculiar circumstances which I have always pointed out whenever they occurred. How truly this is the fact, may easily be gathered from the whole of this narrative, since it is that simple statement from which all may draw the conclusions to which il is nevertheless incumbent on me to point their attention, while it is not my desire to do more. What then was the temperature, or rather what w^ere the tempe- ratures, during these protracted seasons of almost one long and nearly unparalleled winter of four years? The reader of this narra- 'I TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3S: tivc has seen them recorded on idmosl every day. He has seen thai the freezing point was nearly a summer heat to us, that a cold of zero was the " temperate, ''' I may ahnost call it, of our seasons, and that if we were cold, it was because the thermometer stood from thirty even to fifty, sixty, eighty degrees, under the freezing point. Had we storms of wind and snow, did our men encounter them in Iheir several journeys, face the gale and the drift, and fall asleep in a house of ice, even when exhausted by fatigue, and weakened too by want of sufficient food? All this has been seen. It has been seen that wc were often far underfed, and I have shown, what all know, how this conduces to the injurious effects of cold on the body. Yet under all these exposures, all these labours, all these privations, and all repeated and enduring through the long space of four years, one man alone was frost-bitten, one man suffered the loss of a foot, while that loss was the consequence of his own inattention, and no- thing else. It must not then be said that men cannot be protected from these accidents, even under the worst of circumstances. I boast of no secrets, the commonest precautions sufficed, and those pre- cautions are in every one's power. Let the crew which I brought back to their homes say whether those cares sufficed or not. The third and fourth of June were unaltered, and we were not very busy. The Sunday {Jtme 5) was marked by nothing but divine service : but we had prepared, on the previous day, for an expedition on Monday and every thing was therefore kept in readiness. In the evening, the surgeon and a party went forward with the sledge, seven miles in advance; but it blew a gale on the following day {Jmie 6), with heavy snow, so that we could not set out. We attempted it next night {June 7) : but a strong breeze with snow- coming in our faces, we did not reach the sledge till six in the morn- ing {Ju?ie 8). The sun then burst out suddenly at nine; which so blinded us that we were obliged to pilch our tent three miles only, forward, near the rock which we had compared to Ailsa. At eight in the evening we resumed our march to the south-west- ward ; and passing inside the islands, reached a precipice twenty miles from the ship, formerly noticed for the gulls which frequented it, where we saw the first that had arrived this season. A mile far- ther we found two native tents, and were invited in by some of our old acquaintances; though they were taken by surprise, and all in 1.1 . ii;r iit II. „" II M'i '« ■\l In: 4*1^ ; ^ 3SK SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ?«■ I ;'/. r^ bed, with lillie discnmination of wives, husbands, and chihircn. Two of the young men informed us thai they were on their way lo the ship with fish ; promising farther that they would supply us (hi- ring the summer. They l^ad heard of Commander Ross, but had not seen him, 3nd had observed our pontoon without meddUng willi il. They were directed to the ship and we parted. iJ?inc 0) iv thick fog came on, but we had our own former tracks and those of the natives to guide us. At eight we reached Shag-a- voke and pitched on the shore, as the sun's light was once more too strong to bear. I left the intended stock of provisions for Comniau- S lOU THE PURPOSE OF ASSIGMJiG ITS PLACE, AND DEDUCTIONS FROM THOSE. ■■»' '■\ (1831) Having given to the Royal Society n paper on the snltjcct of the North Magnetic Pole, which they have done me the honour lo print, 1 need not here repeat the preUminary or other genenl remarks which it contains, hut conlhie this narrative, as I hax done my former ones, to the facts and reflections which occinred during our voyage and our travelling : thus conforming to tlio Journal character of the volume in which 1 have home the sliaie assigned to me. If there are scientific readers who desire to sec what I have written on this suhject since my return, they will find it in the Philosophical Transactions for 1831. It must he known to many more readers than those, thai the suhject here in question had engaged the attention of our prede- cessors, Parry and Franklin, during their several voyages and travels in these regions for those j)urposes of geographical discovery which are now so famihar to every one. if all general praise of these conspicuous men is now superfluous, I must here however remark, that the numerous and accurate ohservations on the suhjcol of magnetism, made by them and the officers under their command, have proved of great value towards the advancement of magnclic science in general, if more particularly to the assignment of the laws by which that of the globe, as it regards the needle, is regu- lated. The geographical restrictions, however, to which these discoveries had been subjected, were such as to prevent them from extendini; their observations over so large a space as was to be desired. They had at different times made nearer approximations lo the expected place of the North magnetic pole than had ever before been eltected. "'] TO THE ARCTir RFGIONS. .101 Imt the spot wlicrp it ojijjhl to exist had been a scaled plaee to them : more than onee tantahzini; with hopes uhieh, it was destined, were not then to he fulfiUed. Ohservations were still wanting at other and nearer |)oints to this desired and almost mysterious spot ; that its plaee mii;hl he at least assigned with still more seeurily and preeision than it had heen from those already made, that, if |>ossihl<'. the observer miijht even assure hiniself that he had reaehe«l it, had plaeed his needle where no deviation from the perpendieular was assignable, and had so set his foot that it now lay between him and Ihe centre of the earth. These hopes were at length held onl to us ; we had long been drawing near to this point of so many desires and so many anxieties, we had conjectured and calculated, once more, its place, from many observations and from nearer approaches than had ever yet been made, and with our now acquired knowledge of the land on wiiich we stood, together with the power of travelling held out \o us, it at last seemed certain that this problem was reserved for us, that we should triumph over all difficulties, and plant the standard of England on the North magnetic pole, on the keystone of all these labours and observations. Under the determinations of the navigators who had preceded us. llie place of this important spot had been calculated, and with a degree of precision, as it afterwards proved, far greater than rould have been expected. At the lime of our departure from England, it was presumed to be situated in 70" of north latitude, and in 98" 30' of west longitude. Thus it appeared, that in the course of my land journey to the westward in the preceding year (1830), I had been within ten miles of this assigned plaee, when near Cape Felix : but, as I was not then provided with the necessary instruments, I conlddo nothing towards verifying the fad, and had the mortification of being obliged to return, when thus, as I believ- ed, on the point of accomplishing this long wished-for object. We had now, however, been compelled to pass another winter in our ship, not far from the place which we had occuj)ied in the former year, and I thus hoped that 1 should be able to investigate this spot more effectually in the coming spring. AVith this view 1 carried on a series of magnetic observations during the winter, and thus at length succeeded in assigning a place for this magnetic pole which I believed to be much more accurate than the one which had pre- "i?*t«» . ao2 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ,-E f ,1 1,. 1 n$ viously been supposed . The dip of the needle at the place of obser- vation exceeded 89"; ;ind it was thus a much nearer approximation in distance than had yet been attained. These observations were continued till within a few hours of our departure from the ship, on a journey which was undertaken for this sole purpose, and we set out on our expedition on the 27th of May, accompanied by Captain Ross and a party under his direction, as far as the shores of the western ocean, when they separated from us for the purpose of returning to the ship by the way of Neitchillee. Unfortunately, however, the weather became so very unfavourable that I could no longer contmue these magnetic observations : and this vexatious state of things attended us during nearly the whole of our journey across the country. We were, nevertheless, obliged to persist, as it was impossible to wait for better weather when our time was always so much contracted by the state of our supplies. At three in the afternoon of the same day, therefore, we crossed (o the opposite shore of the inlet into which the Stanley river flows. and travelled along the land towards the west until eight in the morning of the twenty-eighth of May, when we were compelled lo halt, in consequence of the ophthalmia, which, from the usual cause, had severely affected four of our party. We had gained but ten miles, and our encampment was made in latitude 69° 34' 4u", and longitude 94° 154' 23" west. The weather now became fine for a time, and I was thus enabled to obtain some very satisfactory observations : by which I found that the magnetic dip had increased to 89" 41' north, and that the north end of the horizontal needle pointed to north 57" west. Ry means of these observations, therefore, I was enabled to determine both the direction in which we must proceed, and the distance that lay between us and the great object in view, as far at least as this latter could be made out through our instruments and the calcula- tions founded on what they had indicated. I need not say how thankful I was for this fortunate, if temporary, clearing of Ihe weather, since it thus placed us in the right track, and served to encourage even the weary and the ailing, by showing them that the end of their toils was not far off. But for their sakes, that I might both give them rest and inspire them with greater courage, I determined to remain here durint^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. :i*»3 (he rest of ihe day, and to repeat the observations ; while by this I should also obtain for myself the greater assurance that we were in (he right course, especially as I could not henceforward expect any .issistance for this purpose from the horizontal needle. it was not till the evening of this day, therefore, that we resumed .)ur journey. The coast from this place took a western direction, and we proceeded along a low shore of limestone, ending a walk, rendered unusually laborious by the inefficiency of two of the men. in latitude 69" 40' 27", and longitude 9^° 22' 315" west. Of the geo- logical structure of this part of the country, I now find that I have little to say but what has so often been described before ; and may therefore suppress the particulars which I noted at the lime, since the result was to find the land, wherever I saw it, formed of the same primary rocks that we had so often examined, skirted or covered by the usual bed of stratified limestone. The evening proved very cold when we renewed our journey al nine in the evening, and the thermometer fell to zero soon after midnight, while a keen north-west wind blew in our faces. We nevertheless persisted in coasting the land ; examining all the inlets and harbours which occurred, and thus materially expending our time and increasing our labour. Having at length completed a direct distance of about twelve miles, we halted, at eight in the morning of the thirtieth of May, in latitude 69° 46' 25", and longitude 90" 49' 11" west. At half- after nine in the evening we again set out ; but a thick haze, ac- companied by occasional showers of snow, compelled me to lead the party along all the windings and indentations of the coast, that i might perform the remainder of that survey which, under such weather, I could execute in no other manner. Soon after midnight, however, it cleared; and, ascending a high point of land, I obtained a fine view of the inlet, which was now covered, as far as the eye could discern, w ith an unbroken surface of level ice, replacing the hummocky and irregular masses that had been packed into it when I passed along the opposite shore in the June of the preceding year. This was a proof that, in the latter j)art, at least, of that summer, this inlet had been free from ice, and might then have been easily navigated had we been on the spot at that time. How much we all regretted this, 1 need scarcely say. Instead of a laborious walk, with the hazard, at the same time, of 19.. iitil? ! ■ 0'My m N^^^Rfii ■al l! .194 SECOiND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY want or starvation, we sliouUl have been comparatively at our ease in all respects ; while I might then, not only have pursued my investigations in security and comfort, so as to have assigned the absolute and exact pla";e of the magnetic pole, but should pro- bably have been enabled to trace the American shore much farther towards Cape Turnagain than it was my fortune to do. We en- camped at eight in the morning of the thirty-first of May, havinj; completed thirteen miles. We were now within fourteen miles of the calculated posiliuu of the magnetic pole; and my anxiety, therefore, did not permit ine to do or endure anything which might pen since communicated to the Royal Society ; as a paper contain- M '■ 'hat philosophers require on the subject has now also been pt u ^ in their Transactions. I need not therefore repeat them here, even had it not been the plan of the whole of this volume to refer every scientific matter which had occurred to Captain Ross and myself, to a separate work, under the name of an appendix. But it will gratify general curiosity to state the most conspicuous results in a simple and popular manner. The place of the obser- vatory was as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping needle, was 89" 59', being thus within one minute of the vertical ; while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its actual existence vkhere we stood, was further con- firmed by the action, or rather by the total inaction of the several horizontal needles then in my possession. These were suspended in the most delicate manner possible, but there was not one which showed the slightest effort to move from the position in which it was placed : a fact, which even the most moderately informed of '"«tN :i:^1, 4 .4 ■\^ ■m 1*1 T 30 H SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fk i readers must now know to be one which proves that the centre of attraction Ues at a very small horizontal distance, if at any. As soon as 1 had satisfied my own mind on this subject, I made known to tha party this gratifying result of all our joint labours; and it was then, that amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the British flag on the spot, and took possession of the North Magnelir Pole and its adjoining territory, in the name of Great Britain an*! King William the Fourth. We had abundance of materials for building, in the fragments of limestone that covered the beach; and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried a canister, containing a record of the interesting fact : only regretting that we had not the means of constructing a pyramid ol more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it would have done more than satisfy our ambition, under the feelings of that exciting day. The latitude of this spot is 70° 5' 17 ', and its longitude 96° 46' 4i>" west. This subject is much too interesting, even to general readers, to permit the omission of a few other remarks relating to the scientific part of this question, desirous as I have been of passing over or curtailing these. During our absence. Professor Barlow had laid down all the curves of equal variation to within a few degrees ot the point of their concurrence; leaving that point, of course, to be determined by observation, should such observation ever faU within the power of navigators. It was most gratifying to find, on our return, that the place which I had thus examined was precisely that one where these curves should have coincided m a centre, had they been protracted on his magnetic chart ; and if I do not here stale these particulars in a more full and scientific manner, it is because of the limits which I have drawn for myself, and because I can refer to his paper, which was read to the Royal Society six months before our arrival in England. One farther remark I must yet be permitted to make : since in relating what has been done, it would leave an important question imperfect, did I not also note what remains to be effected. It has been seen, that as far as our instruments can be trusted, we had placed ourselves within one minute of the magnetic pole, but had not fixed on the precise spot; presuming that this precise point TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?«S. 3g: could be determined by such instruments as it is now within the power of mechanics to construct. The scientific reader has been long aware of this : if popular conversation gives to this voyage the credit of having placed its flag on the very point, on the summit of that mysterious pole which it perhaps views as a visible and tangible reality, it can now correct itself as it may please; but in such a case, while a little laxity is of no moment, the very nonsense of the belief gives an interest to the subject which the sober truth could not have done. To determine that point, with greater, or with absolute preci- sion (if indeed such precision be attainable), it would be necessary to have the co-operation of different observers, at different distances, and in different directions, from the calculated place; while, to obtain all the interesting results which these must be expected to furnish, such labours should also be carried on for a considerable time. What these several expectations are, I need not here say. since the subject is, in this view, somewhat too abstruse for popu'dr readers; though I may barely allude to the diurnal and annual motions of the needle, and to the variations in the place of the pole itself, with the consequent deductions that might be made as to the future in this respect : all of them being of the highest importance in the theory of magnetism. Having thus therefore stated, however briefly, what yet remains for future observation, having pointed out what, I may fearlessly say, is still wanting, and which, as such, claims the attention of those who have the power of promoting a work of this nature, 1 can only express my wishes, if I dare not indulge in hopes, that the same nation which has already carried its discoveries so far, that our own Britain which has already established its supremacy in scientific and geographical researches, will not now abandon them, and leave to others to reap the crop of which it has in this case sown the seeds. That the place for the needful observations is now far more accessible than it was once supposed, has been proved by our own voyage and its results; so that the main difficulty is at least levelled, and the readiest excuse that could have been offered is no longer of any weight. The chief object of our present expedition having thus been accomplished in a manner even more satisfactory than we could have expected, and in a shorter time also than we had much right '^*;i '.1|>V 8 398 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY t'-v to anticipate, I became desirous to extend our knowledge of the country as much farther to the northward as the state of our time, and of our finances, if I may give this name to our provisions, would permit. Unluckily, the latter would not allow me to devote more than one day to this object. I could only wish that we had been better stored with the means of travelling : but, as on all former occasions of a similar nature, it was idle to regret what no contrivance on our part could have remedied. Oh that men could live without food ! was a wish that had never failed to obtrude itseU on every occasion of this nature. I therefore left the party in their little snow camp, under the care of Tdanky, and proceeded with Abernethy, at eleven in this our day-like night, along that shore which here stretches to the northward. After some very quick walking, we arrived, by three in the morning ( June 2), at a point of more than ordinary eleva- tion. We dared not venture farther, for the reasons just assigned : but hence we saw the line of the coast stretching out due north to the distance of ten or twelve miles; while 1 then also concluded that it preserved, in all probability, the same direction as far as Cape Walker in latitude 74° V6'. Here we erected a cairn of stones, to mark the utmost limits of our investigations in this quarter, and, returning homewards, rejoined our companions at eight in the morning. In our absence, a hole had been cut through the ice for the pur- pose of examining its thickness, which was found to be six feet and eight inches. The time of high water had been observed to be a quarter of an hour after noon, and the rise and fall of the tide somewhat less than three feet. We had not been an hour in our hut before the wind shifted to the southward, bringing on thick weather, with snow ; on which the thermometer rose to the freezing point. The cold, therefore, no longer annoyed us; but the consequence was as vexatious, or even more tormenting, since the snow of our huts melted under this temperature and that of our bodies, so as to wet us in a very disagreeable manner. It soon also blew a hard gale ; but as that became more moderate about eleven o'clock, we commenced our return to the ship. For this haste in setting out, we had the best of reasons; being without anything to eat, as we had departed supperless, until we TO THE ARCTIC REGIOP^S. 390 could reach the place where we had left our baggage and provi- sions; hoping all the while, and not without ample cause, that no hear, or no equally hungry and more gormandizing native, had discovered that store on which we depended for many suppers and many breakfasts. We reached it, and found all intact, on the morning of the third, at seven o'clock. The gale had now renewed itself; and it at length blew a storm, with so much drifting snow that it was impossible to think of pro- ceeding for the present. About one in the morning of the fourth of June, it however moderated so far as to permit us to move ; and iis we had examined all the shore on this route, in our progress forward, we now met with no cause to interfere with such rapidity as we could exert. Thus we reached the place of our former en- campment at ten in the morning of the fifth. {Juno 6) There was now less than ever to delay us, as we had seen all that this line of coast could offer, and had done every thing that was lo be effected. Our walk was, therefore, as much without riole as without interruption, during two days; nor was I sorry that I had not to record occurrences and remarks which had long ceased to interest myself, as they must often have aj)peared tiresome to the readers, equally of my journal, and of that of Captain Iloss, indispensable as their relation has been. But I must nevertheless note, that on the sixth of June, in the morning, we encamped on the spot where we had formerly been detained by the blindness of some of our party, already noticed, and that I here repeated the magnetic observations which 1 had made in the same place during our progress forward, confirming by them that accuracy of which it was so important to be assured. Here also 1 had an opportunity of examining my chronometer; and was gratified to find that it had preserved a steady rate, since it was the watch by which I had determined the longitudes on the coast which we had now quilted. At nine in the evening we crossed over to the south-east point of the inlet ; but the ice being very rugged, and some of the party lame, we did not reach it till seven in the morning of the seventh of June. At two on this morning the thermometer was at only four degrees above zero : that being a severity of temperature which we had never before experienced at the same period of the year. On the evening of this day, at seven, we set forward once more il^if^-^s ■I !J ". , I ^Ct ^ !%,-'fi'rfv' ,^ 4()l) SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ;:i t^- 1', towards the now well-known Neitchillee, having chosen this rond for returning to the ship. During this route, and early on lh(! following morning (JuneS), we arrived at a place where we found a large party of the natives assembled ; the situation in question being about three miles westward of Cape Isabella. They were busily occupied in fishing; and their prey consisted of the two species of cod, described in the Appendix of Natural History, by the names Gadus Mochica, and Callarias. These they took through some holes which they had made in the ice for that purpose; and we discovered from them, that this fishery was a very productive one. Our application for a supply was readily granted, and it proved a very welcome one to all of us, limited, both in quantity and quality, as we had now been for some days. From this, after resting about two hours, we proceeded onwards to Cape Isabella, and encamped at eight in the morning. But ;i dense fog now came on, with the effect of rendering our route very uncertain, as it also made the travelling difficult. This we endured as we could, entertaining better hopes for the following morning {June 9); when, at six, we again set out, being as soon as was practicable, and encamped near Padliak; having found it utterly impossible to travel any farther at this time, in consequence of the increased density of the fog. But towards noon it cleared away ; and this horrible mist, bad enough in a known country, but incredibly worse amid such ob- structions as the surface here for ever presents, and where there is no guide but a compass, was succeeded by bright and brilliant weather. The sun shone forth, in consequence, with such power, that we obtained abundance of water from the streams which ran from the rocks and lodged in the pools formed among them : a far more acceptable supply than it is easy for readers to conceive, as it may, perhaps, surprise them to be told that it was the first natural water that we had obtained during this year, though it now wanted but a few days of Midsummer. Is there aught that can convey a deeper impression of the state and nature of this most atrocious climate? If there be, I know not well what it is. If I here also obtained some magnetic observations, as I had before done at Cape Isabella during this returning journey, they are matter for the appendix, not for this place. There at least they can be consulted by the scientific reader, among much more, whether in TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?iS. 401 meleorolofi^y or in the other branches of natural history, which it has been judged most convenient to place in such a supplement : but as far as the present observations are concerned, the paper in the Transactions of the Royal Society to which I have already alluded, will give complete information to all those who may be interested in this subject. I have, however, attached to the end of this narra- tive, the means of the observations in question, that they who are inclined may see at least the general results. It is for this simple journal to say, that we proceeded along the valley of Padliak at ten o'clock, and reached the great middle lake, so often described, about midnight. Then coasting along its southern shore till nine in the morning of the tenth of June, we halted on the northern point of a small inlet, putting up some grouse, and seeing a number of deer under the pursuit of a wolf. At ten in the evening, according to our usual plan, which advan- tageously turned day into night, we directed our course to the north-east corner of this lake, in order to ascertain whether there was any river which communicated between it and its neighbour, so as to discharge this collection of waters into the sea. Thus it proved, and we thence ascertained that to be a fact which had for- merly been only a mailer of conjecture. At three in the morning of the eleventh of June, we arrived, in this our homeward progress, at another place, now familiar from its having been a spot of rest during more than one of our former journeys; but it presented at this tin^e a very different appearance from what it had done on the corresponding day in the preceding year. At the same place, during that journey, we had been obliged to wade knee-deep in water for nearly two miles, in crossing to the head of the inlet of Shag-a-voke. At present all was solid ice, there was not a drop of water any where to be seen, nor was there the slightest mark to indicate the commencement of a thaw. Can it be believed that there were but ten days to Midsummer, that all was still hard winter, and that winter in the middle, I may almost say, of summer: a season such as the January of our own native land seldom sees. It was no small satisfaction for hard-worked men and hungry stomachs, to find on the opposite shore of this inlet, some provi- sions which had been deposited for us by Captain Ross; and, taking possession of them, we crossed the two next lakes and encamped. K. . J ';J -!..!■ % \it>h'r.^?^ 403 SECOISD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY nt SIX in llie evening, near the head of llie bay into which their ualor Hnds its exit. Here we were detained l»y a heavy storm from the soulh-N\«'8i until noon on the twelfth, when it began to moderate, and tempted us to proceed on our now hist day of labour; the ship bcinj; at Icnglh within our reacii. Rut our alleinpt proved vain. Tlio gale was soon renewed with increased violence, and the snow drifted so densely as to entirely blind us to our way, so that we were compelled, in spite of all our efforts and wishes, to halt and encamp at nine on the following morning. It was an unusual disappoint- ment. If we had on many former occasions been as wearied, as hungry, and as anxious to reach our companions and our home, we had now more interesting news to relate than had ever occurred to us before; but we were to exert our patience, at least this once more, and exerted it was. But this trial of our tempers was not destined to be very dural)Ie. The gale at length moderated so far, that we could contrive to see and find our way ; and having but ten miles remaining, we bestirred ourselves in proportion, even till midnight; when, after as much hard labour as we could well manage, and might not have endured if not under such a stimulus, we neared our home; still labouring with all our power till we found ourselves at length, and once more, on board the Victory, at five in the morning of the thirteenth of June. AVe had been absent twenty-eight days. If we were fatigued and extenuated, who could be surprised? but. excepting petty grievances, we were all in good health. TO rUE ARCirc REGI()?«S. Observations on the Dip of the Magnetic yecdlv. 4i):i DnU". 1H"I. as, Marcli I . 1. ir>. 21. 22. 23. 21. 2.'), 30, April I, May 28, liiiic 1, 2. G. July Aug. Oct. Nov. Dec. 17. 13. 12. 20. 21. 22. 23. 21. 22. 23. 21. 1832. Jan. 21. Feb. 16. 18, March 17. 27. April 13, 15. Tlmi- of Ihc Day >0()I1 1 I', n 2 p. M IN 0011 1 l>. .M 4 P. i P. 3 p. 2 p. 3 p. 3 p. 2 p. i P. 8 \. 2 P. Aoon 3 p. M 7 p, 9 A. .M. 1 1a.m. 8 A. M. 9 A. M. 8 A. M. 2 p. in. 5 p. M. 2 p. M. 1 p. M. Noon. lOA.n. 9 A. M. Noon. Noon. 1 p. M. 1 p. )i. 10a.m. 1 p. ,11. Noon. 1 p. Ji. 1 p. M. 3 p. M. 2 p. M. P(»|CH of i\ui !V('C(II( dliict. 88 49-.';3 89 29-72 89 22-80 89 13-8 89 O-l.'-, 88 23- 1 i 88 47-7 88 .'il-42 89 1-27 88 i3-()5 88 13-3() 88 ,'').-• 27 88 4S01 89 48-87 89 5;;- 71 90 2-7.'3 90 0-71 90 1-79 90 12-25 90 1-62 89 5i-08 89 42-38 89 30-58 89 21-03 89 3i-8 89 14-57 89 20-40 89 20 -.35 89 4-53 89 7-40 89 24-12 88 56-67 89 17-98 89 21-5 89 11 89 16-97 89 10-07 89 29-32 89 40-04 89 6-2 89 2-98 89 151 89 7 89 21-52 Poll'li ol' ITV('l.sr<|. 89 88 88 88 88 88 89 88 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 8') 89 / 3 35 35 51 .'JO 57 II 47 4 8 12 5 2 31 28 51 51 89 50 89 53 89 89 89 59 58 37 89 14 89 13 88 33 88 53 88 49 88 44 88 58 88 42 88 35 88 53 88 22 88 24 88 34 88 44 88 38 88 33 88 30 88 49 88 9 88 33 88 31 88 34 04 DO 65 48 ObHcrvtMl Dip. 88 ,56- 89 2- 88 58- Hciii.irkA. 89 42- 89 5S- 89 57- 90 1-88 89 56-12 89 40-19 89 22-33 89 17-18 ' Mean oi)«(TV(?(l dip at SliPriff' 8 Hay in l.it. 70" r N. an(lloni;.91'5i'\V. Variation 96" 12'-3 \V . pn^vioiis (o my jonrncv t()\vanl.s the inati.iclic I»!)lc=88'"57'.01N. (1831.1 , 89' ll'-9N. Variation 57" l5'\V;la(. 69'31'l.'')">;lon|;.91'"53'\V. 89" 58'- 11 >. AHsunicd (lircction of ; meridians. 75" W. (Truf.) j89"59'-465.>. Assumed direction ol [ meridian N. 60" W; latitude 70' ) 5' 17" N; lontj. 96"45'48"\V. I 89'" 59' N. ,Vs8um. d direction of • meridian N. 15" VV. Same position as on Uic 28lh of Ma v . At Cape Isabella. Lat. 69' 26' 20'"' ; ' long. 93"51' \V. I At Padliak. Lat. 69o 30' 1"; long. f 93" 27' 52" W. Observed dip at SliorifF'.s Bay on my return from the magnetic pole 89" 3'-32N. (1831.) Ob.servcd dip at Victory Harbour 88" 54'-86N. Variation r01"32'-03\V; lat. 70" 9' 18" N; longitude 91" 30' 33" VV. 88 57- ■ ^i^f '* *^.3 '.,nll 401 SECOin VOYAr,E OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XLIII. KKM.VRKS O^ THE VSSIGNMEriT OF THE >lA«."1ETin POLE. (1851) I have not hitherto thought it necessary to add any of my own remarks to the several journals of Commander Ross : if I do thai on the present occasion, it is hecause 1 have reserved all my own magnetic observations for the Appendix, so that no opportunity of noticing the important cpiestion of the Magnetic Pole has occurred in my own journal. It miglit thus have even appeared to the readers of our joint narratives, as if I had taken no personal interest in this invesliQ.i- tion : it might possibly be supposed, that in deputing to my active and intelligent nephew, the entire charge of the zoology and botany of this region, I had equally referred to his guidance and labours, every matter of science, and contented myself with the management alone of the ship and its crew. A popular feeling, alluded to in his journal, which supposes some profound mysteries to belong to the magnetic pole, and some singular miracle, or peculiar good fortune, or marvellous depth ol^ science concerned in its discovery, as if we had unexpectedly found a mountain of adamant or some other wonder never witnessed, has thus also tended to make this product of our voyage a subject of discussions which are entirely misplaced, and can only be corrected by a clearer and simpler view of the subject. That the voyage of the Victory lias assigned the place of this particular magnetic pole within at least a very small distance, has been seen ; or should I be surprised if it shall hereafter prove, that my energetic and phdosophical officer had placed his foot on the very spot, notwithstanding his own doubts ; since every man ol^ science, acquainted with the practical difficulties of this subject, whether arising from the imperfection of instruments, or aughl else, must know how doubtful or uncertain a tndy exact deter- TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 40fi iiiination of this nntiire must be, and how eu8ily he may have been riijht, even when doiibtiu}; of this himself. As his narrative has already observed, the 8U|iposed place had been lon(; sinec indicated i)y many experiments on the dip and the variation of the needle, and, most of all, thronjih those performed by the personal attention or under the direction of Sir Kdward Parry. Thus was it known to us, that while wc had advanced far- ther into this country than the ill fortune of this officer had per- mitted him to do, so were we nearer to this presumed point, indi- cated as it had been by these observations, and others, and by the calculations founded on them. I know not that we should even have felt greater conlidence on this subject had we left F,n|»land with the knowledge of Professor Barlow's calculations, gratifying as it was, after our return, to find how exactly his determination from a sound theory had coincided with our own observations near to and at the very place itself. While, therefore, this object was amon^j ,ho8e which we had pro- posed to ourselves in leaving England, and was but second in our affections to the discovery of a passage which shouul enable uii lo trace the course of the northern shores of Anierica, r -en to Behring's strait, hoping too that we should effect this t\}\xt and return home by Cape Horn, so was it ever kept in view irom the first moment of our making the shores of this rejioii. and during the whole of our detention. J'or this purpose it was, that we, at different times, and in different places, erected those magnetic observatories which 1 have occasionally noticed in my own journal; (hough conformably to its plan, 1 have nowhere given those obser- vations, nor even alluded to their purpose; as judging them fitter for an Appendix, while reserving any other and general remarks which I might have to make, to the present place. On the several occasions also of our excursions inland, this was an object ever in view, for whatever oiher and additional purposes these journeys might have been undc^ J;-', .'n ; and if in the narra- tives of those expeditions no notice of this subject has been observed in reading my journal, it is because f>f the same systematic exclusion of scientific observations, and because no result admitting or re- quiring a popular record had been obtained, until this last journey by Commander Ross, just narrated, when the successful e'kent which has been seen, had at length furnished the means of such an Wi^ ■ if 406 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY J.i ■T*^ account of lliis termination of our labours as has just been given. It would not now be bere worth my while to detail this our progress in the approximation to the magnetic pole, even could ji be made intelligible or amusing to popular readers, which is impos- sible : but scientific men will find them in my Appendix, and can thus trace the last steps to that discovery, or rather determination, which was at length crowned with success. If this last journey of thirty miles, as it appears by the narrative, was performed without my presence, which was required in another direction and for other purposes, and this keystone of all our pre- vious labours laid by the party, consisting chiefly of the mates Rlanky and Abernethy, under the immediate orders of my suc- cessful nephew, heaven forbid that I should attempt to rob them of such honours as they are entitled to on this ground, or to claim the credit of having planted the British flag on this long desired spot with my own hand. Let this last closing act of my labours on this subject, as of theirs, confer such honour on this party as they may claim or deserve : I can say, like others, though in a quotation rather hackneyed, " Palmam qui meruit ferat. " and if I myself consent to award that palm to him who commanded this success- ful party, as is the usage, it must not be forgotten that in this I surrender those personal claims which are never abandoned h\- the Commander of that flagship which so often gains the victory through the energy, intelligence, and bravery of the men and officers whom he directs and orders, or by the captain-general who carries a town through the courage and activity of the sergeant who leads the " forlorn hope. " But if 1 have done this, I should not be justified in thus surren- dering the rights of the brave, and patient, and enduring crew of the Victory, nor perhaps those of him, the noble-minded and generous, who sent the Victory an<1 her crew to the Polar regions. It must be hereafter remembered in history, and will be so recorded, that it was the ship Victory, under the command of Captain John Iloss, which assigned the north-west Magnetic Pole, in the ye.ir 1831, and that this vessel v^as fitted out by him whom I can now call Sir Felix Booth ; a name to be honoured, had it even remained without such a distinction, as long as British generosity and spirit shall be recorded as a characteristic of the merchants of Britain, in this way and no other, let the discovery of the Magnetic Pole TO TUE ARCTIC REGIOPIS. 407 be now viewed ; that in doing justice io any. it may be withheld from none. Surely every man of this hard-used ship, from the highest to the lowest, deserves to share in the praise which the public may award for whatever it was our good fortune to effecl. It is but a small reward, after all, for what every one endured; and sweet as it may be, it requires much forgetfulness of our past sufferings not to feel that it was dearly purchased, while it would be hard indeed were this tribute withheld from such enterprize, such patient endurance, such toils and sufferings so long continued, and such a spirit of hope and energy, amid circnmstances capable of sinking almost any heart into the depths of despair. CHAPTER XLIV. TRA.XSACTIONS DURI^G THE REMAINDER OF JU5E— THE JOURNAL AND TUE SUMMARY OF JULY. (June 14, 1831) Snow fell to-day, and the ground was so cover- ed, that no land conid be seen, nor was there an atom of running water or a single pool visible. The temperature, however, rose to 40" for the first time. Some grouse were killed yesterday and this day, and also on the following one [June V6). On the sixteenth it snowed; yet the sun shone afterwards, and there was at length a pool of water near the ship. {June 17 ) That water froze again an inch thick, and did not open till noon, when some impression was made in the snow, increasing on the following day ( June 18), and thus terminating our week. {Ju7ic 19) Sunday saw the usual duties performed. On Monday [Jtme 20) the day was warm, and the night temperature was freez- ing. Flocks of ducks and geese were seen flying to the north; and some grouse were killed. {June 21 ) The sun had now very nearly reached its greatest elongation. It was the summer solstice, and not a drop of rain had yet fallen, nor had the thermometer once made its round of Iwenty- l;l ; ^ 4U8 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I* !%". four hours without reaching the freezing point. But in the course of this (lay, the first rain fell, lasting two hours : though the i( e formed in the night had been an inch thick. {June 22) There was a fresh gale from the northward in the morn- ing ; but on this and the following day {June 23), it froze equally hard at night alongside of the ship. On the twenty-fourth of June it was still colder ; since the thermometer was at 50° in the morning, and did not reach the freezing point till nine. On the following ( Ju7ie 215 ) it was at the freezing point all the twenty-four hours, thus bringing round Saturday again. A good many birds, consisting of geese, ducks, grouse, and plovers, had been killed within these pasl days. {June 26) Sunday offered no change ; on Monday {June 27) there was rain in the evening, and ( June 28) we coidd now at last sup- ply ourselves with water from the shore. Yet the pools froze again on the twenty-ninth, the thermometer falling to 31"; and, on the thirtieth, the mean of the twenty-four hours was but 3^". In the mean time, the rigging of the ship had been going on, and was now nearly completed. It was somewhat dispiriting to find that we should be ready so long before the weather, and that we had arrived at the end of June, had passed the solstice, and were still to see nightly frosts, with little compensation in the day. A winter sol- stice in England is very rarely indeed what the summer one was in this most miserable region and most abominable climate. Such, nevertheless, is the climate in which man contrives to live, and, as we had no right to dispute, happily. He cannot drink water at Midsummer, it is true, till he has boiled his snow; and had he not wit enough to produce fire, he would have nothing to drink for nine months of the year. He smells at no flowers, for there are none to smell at ; but he prefers the odour of train oil. He has no carrots or " small herbs," for his soup or his seasoning; but his soup ami his seasoning are, alike, oil, and he can find a sallad, when his luck is particularly great, in the stomach of a reindeer ; and that sallad too, cooked in a heal of which the advantages have never been dis- puted. If he never saw that utterly inconceivable thing called a tree, what matters it, when he can construct coaches of fish, and splinter bars of bones? and if he can make his lodging, not merely '' on the cold ground," but on the cold snow, his fare at least is not •^ hard;" and why, if he thinks so, is he not as well lodged as the TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 409 princes of the earth, the marble of whose palaces does not approach in purity to the materials of his architecture, while his own marble house is erected in an hour, and can be renewed, like that of Aladdin, at every hour of the day, in any place that he wills? 3Ian must be a noble animal, that is certain, be he even under the figure and bearing of a Boothian Esquimaux : is there another beast on earth thti. ould do all this, endure all this, contrive all this, conform to aii this, to all this and more, and still be happy : happy if he is in Naples, happy too in Boothia Felix? But that climate which suited those who know not another or a better, had a very different effect on our feelings, independently of the actual sufferings and privations of which it was the cause. Where all the happiness was based upon the abundance of eating, and where there was nothing to prevent that steady supply of the materials of this happiness, which these specimens of man partook with the animal tribes to whom it constitutes the almost sole enjoyment and purpose of life, all that the severity or badness of the chmate could effect was nothing; nor, caring Uttle for a hard winter or a long one, had they any reasons to anticipate a season, bad or good, to hope or to fear. The present state of things was very different to us; whose misery it was to fear, or to hope (equal miseries in the res'dt I imagine), respecting a summer that might not arrive till winter was once more at its heels, and once more about to resume a command that was likely to endure for the better part of another year. The summary of the month is not consolatory. If we had con- sidered the last June as colder than any which had been recorded in former voyages, the present had turned out much worse, having been both more cold and more stormy. For the first two weeks, the mean temperature was 7" ; and during the last, between 2° and 3" : giving a mean, for the whole month, less by 15° than that of the preceding June. Moreover, the first rain fell on the twenty-first, and was little more than a shower ; whereas, in the former year, that had occurred on the tenth. I have already noticed that the summer solstice had passed without our having had one whole day above the freezing point. There was much stormy weather ; but it is also a remarkable fact, that while, in the former year, the temperature always rose on those occasions, it never altered in the present one ; making an 20. ■ i'f ; I ;*f!i*:^' ^ m 'C'-^ 410 seco:nd voyage of discovery m essential difference between the two seasons, the cause of which was not apparent. The general result, in the state of the snow and the ice, has already been seen ; and the prospect was therefore suffi- ciently discouraging. At the best, and should no worse come, this season was three weeks later than any former one on record in this climate. The possible future was still before us : it might prove better than was expected ; but I am not quite sure that many of us hoped much. Except the mate Taylor, all the men were now well, and his wound was healing. The supply of fish by the natives had been abundant and beneficial. The late period at which the waterfowl arrived was remarkable ; but our sport in general had been more successful than formerly. r.ommander Ross had explored much more of the coast; and it was remarked by both of us, that the temperature on the western side of the peninsula and on the western lakes, was from 10" tolli" lower than that at the ship, which was on the east side; while the comparisons were made with such care that v d could not have been deceived. M*l I Mil CHAPTER XLV. PROCEEDINGS IN JULY, AUGUST, AND SEPTEMBER, WITH THE SUM- MARIES OF THOSE RESPECTIVE MONTHS. (July 1 , 1851) The morning was cold and stormy, and it conti- nued to blow hard in squalls during the following day {Jul?/ 2), the temperature falling to 31" and the air feeling extremely cold. There was snow at nine, and it moderated. Commander Ross went out shooting with a party, and met a collection of five native families, all strangers to us except one, who had been once on board du- ring the former summer. They pitched their tents for the night, and five of the men came to the ship with our officers, making as much clamour on their arrival as our original friends had done. TO THE ARCTIC REGIOIVS. 411 They had heard of us at NeitchiUee, and came for the purpose of bartering some clothing for our valuable articles. It was proper, of course, to go through all the usual exhibitions of wonders, and the effects were such as might have been expecte that the evening ended at 33". 1 contrived to take several fish, on these days, by means of the spear which the natives use for this purpose. {July IIJ) This morning displayed a mixture and succession of rain, snow, mist, and clouds: any where else, it would have been a bad fifteenth of November instead of a fifteenth of July, and it nearly froze at night. Two of the natives came with thirty pounds of salmon, informing us that they had many more; on which it was settled that Commander Ross should go with a party to fetch them ; a journey that would occupy four days. On the sixteenth of July, the thermometer reached 44", being the finest day we had yet seen during this year; and Commander Ross, with the surgeon and eight men, accompanied by the natives, departed. Why did we not believe it a fine and warm July day? It could have been but 84" in England, and when our Christmas heat was but eighty degrees under that of our own country, why should we not have thought a difference of no more than forty a precious boon? {July 17) It continued still fine in the day-time, but the thermo- meter sank to 34° at night, and it froze on Monday morning {July 18), though the heat of the day was again 44". It could scarcely indeed be otherwise, surrounded as we were by snow and ice, on which all that a nocturnal sun could do was without effect. "♦',;;^ iisi^jiH ' ^ 414 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m '^^i It (lid not malerially charij^e on llie nineteenth of July; and, in the absence of the rest of my companions, my time was passed in taking angles and observations, and in shooting, while the men on board were busy in caulking. Our boats were sunk in the water, to prevent them from splitting. {July 20) The mate and five of the men arrived with a sledge load offish, and we found abundant employment in sorting and dis- posing of them. A large proportion belonged to a store of the former year, and was not, therefore, in very good condition ; thirty- seven, taken in the present one, weighed 129 pounds. After rest and refreshment, the men set out again at nine in the evening, with Ihree days' more provisions, the pontoon, a net, and three dogs, to join Commander Ross, who remained fishing, with the natives, at the place where he had appointed them. {July 21 ) The weather was the same ; there was a warm day with a cold night. 1 shot a hare in its summer coat; and the ptar- migans had been observed changing their plumage some time before. I now found that there was a much greater variety of small birds here than we had supposed last year : many that I saw this day were unknown to me : but I met with the nest of a sandpiper, with the young, as I did again on the following day {July 22). On that one there was some rain : a rare event as yet, in this extremely backward season. The surgeon arrived before the evening, to report that sixteen hundred fish were taken, and to demand assis- tance for the purpose of bringing home four hundred which were on the road. These arrived consequently, at midnight; and the whole of the next day {July 23) was fully occupied in cleaning and packing them in several ways; among which, some were preserved in vinegar. The weight of those four hundred, after all these ope- rations, exceeded a thousand pounds : it was a great addition to our stock. {July 24) Having no Sunday congregation to-day, from the absence of nearly all the people, there was no service. I found a nest of snow buntings ready to fly, which I brought on board, hoping to rear them up tame. Five of the men from the second party arrived on Monday {July 2d), much exhausted. They had lost their way, and had left the sledge five miles off, having, very improperly, no officer with them. Mr. Thorn and the remaining men returned with them after they had rested, and at six. they 1 TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 415 brought back five hundred fish, cleaned, and weighing loOO pounds. The curing and packing of these found employment for every one. ( July 26 ) The party again set off for more fish, after the sledge had been repaired ; and on the next day {July 27), they returned willi two hundred, which was all they could carry ; bringing also a not*' from Commander Ross, by which I learned that they had taken 3378 fish at one haul. The ice was, however, decaying so rapidly, that he found they could not all be conveyed to the ship in a sound state, even had the roads permitted. There was abundant work for us now, and no prospect of want ; those that could be spared were sent back on the same errand, to the halfway island wh<'re these fish were deposited. {July 28) Commander Ross arrived, reporting that both his par- lies were on their way, with five hundred fish : and that there were as many more to bring from the island. They had taken, ni all, five thousand and sixty-seven, but were obliged to leave three thousand of them to the natives 5 the breaking up of the ice com- pelling them to (piit their position. At five, the first party returned, having left the sledge two miles off. One of them was ill, and the rest could bring it no farther. The second party came in at eight, with three hundred fish, and with the man. Ruck, who had been seized with epilepsy, on the sledge. In the evening, both sledges returned to the island to bring back the tent, the net, and the re- mainder of the fish. ( July 29 ) The thermometer at night was but 36" ; but the fol- lowing day {July 30) was the warmest we had seen, as the midday heat was liO", and the mean 41". At eight in the morning, one of the sledges came back with the nets and tents, and three hundred and fifty fish. Finding that two of the men belonging to the other sledge were exhausted, two others were sent to replace them, and all returned at ten. The thermometer on Saturday night was 11" : it had never yet been so high at that hour. {July 31 ) The day of rest was especially acceptable. The ice at length dissolved so much, that we could not get on shore from the ship without the aid of a boat ; though this bay was far from being so clear as it was at the same date in the last year, while the ice in the ofling was not nearly so advanced in decay. The month ended at last, with fine weather : there was not a cloud to be seen when the sun set at midnight. »•:• ' ir 41H SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY A comparison of the mean temperature of this July with the preceding one, shows that it had been nearly 7" colder : that hav- ing been 37" instead of 41". The highest heat had been 70" in the last : in the present, it was but 50" : but the lowest only differed by one degree ; being 3:2" in the former, and 31" in this period. There had been much work for the men, in fitting the ship for sea ; and a good deal of extra labour in travelling and in the curing of fish. Many had, in consequence, been ailing as well as fatigued, but were recovering ; as was the man whose foot had been ampu- tated. He with the epilepsy was the chief patient ; but as he had not experienced a fit ever since we had taken him on board, we hoped that it might not soon return. The men having become more practised sportsmen, our success m this way had gone on increasing ; and as every thing was thrown into the public stock and divided among the messes, the men thus obtained a useful variety in their diet. If our success in fishing made up for the disappointment which we experienced from the natives, so was it of great use to them. We had discovered that the salmon arrived, on the breaking up of the ice, in even greater crowds than we had at first understood ; since, by entering the water outside the line of their course, the natives could drive them into the small pools on the shore, or even on the dry land itself. It is plain, that whatever the seals may devour, the fish cannot here have many enemies : while this, in- deed, seems generally true of all the northern shores where sal- mon abound. By accompanying us in our fishery, the natives had now, for the first time, seen the use of a net, and what is not always the case with ihos': whose conceit is ever commensurate with their igno- rance, they were fully aware of its value. Seeing this, we took the trouble to teach them the art of making one, though not (juite sure whether the materials to which they are limited would enable them to fabricate any that could be of much use. If this shouki, however, prove the fact, then had we taught them a valuable art, in making them a present of knowledge which, to them, was of the first importance ; in this too, improving their condition in a greater degree than by all the useful tools and materials which we had sold or given to them. One consolation we assuredly had derived from our communi- I'' TO THE AUCTIC REGlUiNS. 417 cation with Ihcni, of a more diiralile ;mil ai^rccable reim nibrancc than all the advantaj^cs that we had [jaiiicd from them in the way ol trade. We had sold them no rum, we had introduced no diseases among them, nor had we, in anything, done anght to corrupt their morals or injure their healths, to render them less virtuous or less happy than we had found them. Nor had they learned anj - thing from us, to make them discontented with their present ami almost inevitable condition. On the contrary, while we soon hoped to leave them as happy as we had found them, we had reason to believe that they would hereafter so far profit by our example, and by the displays of knowledge and ingeniiity which they had seci with us, as well as by the various useful things wc had ilistribulid among them, as to augment their own ingenuity and resources, and thus improve their condition of life as far as that was ca])abl<; of improvement. That wc could not instruct or improve them in religion or morals, we might regret ; but we could not blame ourselves for not under- taking a task which was rendered impracticable by the limited nature or nxiv communication, and the obstructions consecpieut on our deficiency in their language : we at least made the only at- tempt in our power, by endeavouring to instruct one of their youths ; but how this failed, I have formerly shown. Where navi- gators in general have committed so much evil among the rude tribes which they have visited, even this negative conduct was a matter of self-congratulation : while we can now, at home, and when we shall sec these people no more, reflect with pleasure on what we avoided to do, and even on what we did ; indulging too al times in the dream, that should they ever again be visited by an European people, our memory may be handed down to a remote posterity, with, possibly, as mysterious a fame as that which gilds the name of Manco Capac. The chief observations made in tnis month relate to the terres- trial refraction : those of the usual nature were continued when that was practicable. The collections in natural history had been augmented. We were still fast frozen up, though our canal was likely to be soon open ; but the bay was even yet full of ice, and that in the offing '" hard and fast : " in the preceding year at the same time, it was all in motion, and the bay presented a wide extent of clear water. 20.. I \ V. Btt li Hj i fi r'n«|i 5 tJM%i .«<( M' '-\>i 4IH JJECOiNI) VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I think it proper to state here thtr mode in which our new sup- plies of Hsh were managed and disposed of. H .Iccount of the Supply of Salmon obtained at th'i '[ ■ cr, an I received in July J 1831. Hcvcnca«ki of salinoii pickled In hot vlno|{.ir, ii>. i^j. 1378 Olio I'iiHk |>ickU!(i and dried 144 SIlKhlly aallrd untherockA 177 KrcHli Hiilll and dried on llic rocks 131 In jars pickled wllli vineuar 5tt Ucd for tlic ship 80 Kept for present nso . . . . , 27 Hpcciniens 27 Received In bays afterwards 302 2836 Three hundred were afterwards brought to the ship, but only thirty-six were fit for use : the i est were given to the dogs. CHAPTER XLVI. JOURNAL OF AUGUST— THE VICTORY MOVED OUT OF HER HARBOUR — ATTEMPTS TO PROCEED ALONG THE SHORE— THE SHIP FORCED BY THE ICE INTO ANOTHER HARBOUR— SUMMARY OF THE MONTH — JOURNAL OF SEPTEMBER, AND ITS SUMMARY. *' ijt (August li^ 1831) It was fine weather: a party went for the remainder of the fish and returned to dinner. The ship had lont; been heeling to starboard very inconveniently; but she was now cut round, and came upright. The refraction was very extraordinary on the following day {August 2); and the third of August was true summer weather. On this day the ice gave way near the ship, so that she advanced half her length. It rained heavily on the next (August 4), and she was moored by a hawser to a large iceberg outside of us. TU THE VRCTIC REGIONS. 410 (Augufit 15) It \vu8 cold n(;ain. The I'lmpowdcr \>;is l»r()ii|;lil un bounl, aiul the whulc Imul repaired. On the sixth uf Au{;iist. ;i party uu shure observed the ice in niutiun to the north-eastward, ior the first time. There was one lar^je pool ; and the separaliun appear- ed to extend from the islands to the back of the southern hill. On Sunday (Aufjust 7), it had enlarged considerably, and was still in- creasing; on Monday {Augu.st 8), when the ice was also visibly in motion, though it did not open much. On the next day [AufjustM). the large iceberg ahead of us split and upset; obliging us to lay out u hawser in another place. (August 10) The wind was still from the north, but there was no farther change in the ice : the weather proved foggy and rain). The following day [August 11) was little different ; but we hove oul a little farther, and got the Krusenstern alongside. On the twell'lh of August there was no change; but a party of the natives arrived, including four of our original friends and six strangers. They wen* at a Hsbing station two days off, and promised to return in two more, with some skins for sale. The strangers received the usual present of iron hoop, and were treated with a supper. {August 15) The party returned, wives, children, ami all, lo the amount of twenty-three, and were regaled by us with a dinner of fish and fat. We purchased some clothing, and accompanied them to their tents ; glad of even their society, under our present dearth of variety or amusement. Is there anything can convey in a stronger manner our utter destitution of all that can interest men, whether in occupation or amusement, than to confess that we found a relief from the self- converse of our own minds and the society of each other, from the eternal wearisome iteration of thermometrical registers and winds, and tides, and ice, and boats, and rigging, and eating, in the con- verse of these greasy gormandising specimens of humanity, whose language we could scarcely comprehend, yet whose ideas were, I believe, more than sufficiently comprehended without any language at all. Let no one suppose that we had not felt all this, during months, first, and during years, afterwards, if I have not told it, if I have passed it all by, as if we had never felt it. There were evils of cold, and evils of hunger, and evils of toil ; and though we did not die nor lose our limbs, as men have done in those lands, we had to share with the rest of the world, those evils of petty sickness which .;»' I i; ^'**• are sufficiently grievous while they exist, though they make but a small figure in the history of life, and would make a much smalkr one in that of such an expedition as ours. Had we not also under- gone abundance of anxiety and care ; of th'> sufferings of disappoint- ed hope; of more than all this, and of not less than all, those long- ings after our far-distant friends and our native land, from which who that has voyaged far from that home and those friends has 4'ver been exempt ? And who more than we, to whom it could not but often have occurred, that we might never again see those friends and that home? Yet was there a pain even beyond all this; ami that grievance seldom ceased. We were weary for want of occu- pation, for want of variety, for want of the means of mental exer- tion, for want of thought, and (why should I not say it?) for want of society. To-day was as yesterday, and as was to-day, so would be tomorrow ; while if there was no variety, as no hope of better, is it wonderful that even the visits of barbarians were welcome, or can anything more strongly show the nature of our pleasures, than the confession that these were delightful ; even as the society of London might be amid the business of London ? In the night which succeeded to this day, the thermometer fell to 36°, and it was therefore far from warm : of course, the ice remained unaltertel. as may be easily conjectured. It is difficult to convey to my readers the impression produced by this sleepy and stationary condition of a sea thus impracticably frozen. When the winter has once in reality set in, our minds become made up on the sul)- ject; like the dormouse (though we may not sleep, which would be the most desirable condition by much), we wrap ourselves up in a sort of furry contentment, since better cannot be, and wait for the times to come : it was a far other thing, to be ever awake, wait- ing to rise and become active, yet ever to find that all nature was still asleep, and that we had nothing more to do than to wish, and groan, and — hope as we best might. !n this visit to the tents, we found that the wooden leg was once more ailing, in some manner of which I did not particularly in- quire, sin<;e the carpenter-doctor was at hand to examine into the grievance, and was ready to repair it as he best knew how. If, in this matter, he had always displayed abundance of good-nature, I believe this to be a praise which was amply deserved by our crew i\\ general, in all our communications with these people. I do not TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 421 say that any of our men were not really kind in their dispositions ; but certain it is, that good-nature is not less conta(\ious than the sever^j! evil passions, and that as one peevish or irascible person renders irascible or peevish, a nature otherwise kind and gentle, or finds him to be of morose conduct whom another person or another society esteems as among the agreeable and the mild, so do gentle- ness and smoothness of disposition and conduct, on the other hand, produce the same character even where it may not actually exist ; or, at the least, ensure the display of good-nature, where an opposite temper may be the more natural one, and when morose or peevish conduct would have called that into its worst activity. Let the married, at least, profit by a remark to which the gentle tempers of our Esquimaux have given rise. They were not only kind, but as Falslaff says of wit, they were the cause of kindness in those around them, including ourselves; and perhaps, among ourselves, in one or two, who, with a different people, would have displayed a far other character than they did. (August 14) The natives were not permitted to come on board till after church, when the boat was sent for them. The wooden leg had been bound with copper, and was belter than ever. We ])arlered and made presents as usual. They were to divide their party the next day, for the purpose of going to Shagavoke, and to Neitchillee, and promised to bring us venison in the winter. A seal was shot to-day : it was a sport in which we had hitherto found no success. {August V6) The weather was very bad, with an easterly gale and rain, which prevented the natives from moving. In consequence, ten of them came on board, chiefly to apologize for their dogs, which had broken loose and stolen some of our fish. The poor animals had been punished accordingly, and somewhat too severely. This always appeared to us the greatest defect in the general domestic conduct of this people ; and it has bjen equally a subject for the remarks and censures of other voyagers and travellers among these races. They derive great services from their dogs, yet never appear to love them. The animals are hardly used, and worse fed : they n ould be ti eated far worse, in every way, were it not for their indis- pensable utility. It might be an excuse, that the canine race is not here of an amiable character ; yet I suspect that this character is only the result of their treatment, and that were they domes- !'■ *4 :^:. 423 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1 > if ;< ticated and treated with the kindness which they experience among ourselves, they would be as attached to their masters and compa- nions as our own are. Yet perhaps I ouyht not to blame them. England does not treat its horses in a much better manner; and the comparison too between a pack of British fox-hounds and a team of Esquimaux dogs, would not leave much to boast of on the part of our own countrymen. The men were treated to the seal for their dinners; and, in the evening, they left their post, after havinp, previously renewed their promise of supplying us with venison in the winter. The ice was in motion, and the poo! which had opened was filled up again. {Auguist 10) After a continuance of the rain, there was a heavy fall of snow, and the ground was all covered again, as it had been in the winter, until a renewal of the rain dissolved it once more. The following day {Auguat 17) presented a mixture of fog, snow, and rain, but it became calm in the evening ; only, however, that the same weather might return in the morning {August 18). It was mild on the next {August Id) -^ but no alteration took place in the ice during these three days. On the twentieth, a southerly breeze made the ice move in the offing, but, coming round to the westward, the motion of this great body of floating masses ceased once more; notwithstanding which, a considerable pool appeared on each side of the point. {yiugust 21) There was some shifting of the ice on Sunday, so that it was loose about the ship; but it came in at last and filled iij) the bay as before. The next day {August 22) there was rain wliitii ended in sleet, as the thermometer was never above 33». It seemed as if the new winter was already commencing. It was cold and foggy on Tuesday {August 23), but mild on the following day {August 24), and every thing remained as it h'^d been. The shootiiif, of another seal was the only variety. {August 2;5) The weather was much the same, but the ice near us was in motion. The whale boat was thus jammed between lli<' ship's side and a large piece of these never-ending rocks, vvhicli. float away as they might, only departed to be succeeded by as bad. or worse, since the storfbouse which supplied them was inexhausl ible. "■ Till the rocks melt with the sun," is held that impossibl- event, in one of the songs of my native land, to which some swain compares the durability of his aff'ection for his beloved ; and I l>r- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 423 lieve we began at last to think that it would never melt those rocks, which, even at this late period of the year, continued to beset us in every shape which their beautiful, yet hateful crystal could assume. Oh ! for a fire to melt these refractory masses, was our hourly wish, even though it had burnt up all the surrounding region. The injury which had thus been sustained by the boat was such that she could no longer be repaired so as to carry six oars. We therefore determined to construct a smaller one out of her, and she was accordingly taken on board. Another seal was shot. The thermometer was 38° at midnight. {August 26) It fell to 34" the next night ; and the wind being from the south in the evening, the ice began to move, so as to show some clear water. The tide was high on the next day {August 27), and floated off so much of it as to open a line of water, a mile in length, to the northward. Ducks of different kinds, with other birds, were shot within these past days ; and we had now a living menagerie on board, consisting of four foxes, three hares, and twelve northern mice. The wind blew strong from the westward on the twenty-seventh, and the ice began to drift out of the bay, to the eastward. But it was evening before a passage was practicable. The ship was then warped a quarter of a mile to the south-west, into a conveni- ent place for tak'ng advantage of the first opening {August 28). As soon as this was done, we got under sail, but, unfortunately carrying away the mizen boom, could not weather a piece of ice. She was thus brought about by it, and equally failed in weathering a large iceberg on the other tack, which was grounded; by which means she took the ground herself. We soon, however, hove her off by hawsers to the shore ; and though her bottom did not prove to be damaged, the lower rudder iron was broken, so that there was an end to our progress for this day. {August 29 ) Early in the morning the rudder was repaired, and the wind remained steady and strong at west, with occasional snow. It was the very wind that we wanted; and, after much doubt and anxiety, we f^lt that we were at 'ist liberated : liberated, however, not yet free. We cast off, therefore, soon after four, and, with a reefed topsail, stood for the islands through what appeared to be looiioice. Unluckily, when about two-thirds over, the wind came §1' ,iti "mx % it'iS ■«' ix. '■. ■■ ..U >' 424 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY to the north-west, and we were unable to fetch within a mile to the eastward of them; after which, shifting to the north, with a snow squall, it brought the ice down along the north shore. W c were therefore obliged to ply to windward, in which we derived much assistance from our new leeboards. At nine it backed again to the north-west, and we were soon close in shore, after havinf; run four miles. We had passed two bays, and two remarkable rocks, when, at one, a heavy shower of snow coming on, we were obliged to haul our wind, and stand in for a Uttle bay; where a baMing breeze nearly laid us on the rocks, and the weather shortly began to threaten for a storm. A boat was therefore sent out with warps. to a rock on shore ; but slipping off while we were hauling on them, we were obliged to let go the anchor in twenty-three fathoms. After this, however, we weighed and warped to the weather shore, during which we were able to examine the bay, which we found to be secure from all points of the compass except four, and com- pletely out of the stream of ice when that was moving under tlie lid'^s and currents. We therefore warped to the head of this new harbour, where a smal river entered, and immediately made fast to the shore with two hawsers. No sooner, however, had we done this, than a violent gale came on from the north, with a heavy fall of snow. which compelled us to carry out more hawsers. We here saw ihe ice passing to the south-west with considerable rapidity, and had occasion to be very mankful that we were so secure. Under this feeling, the hard labour which every one had undergone was soon forgotten. {August 50) It was very cold in the morning, and the thermo- meter was but 24". The wind slufted from north to south, and back again, carrying out some nev/ ice which had formed. Tntm the shore, the passage was seen to be clear, at eleven, as fi.r as Andrew Ross island, but the wind was right against us. We fo^uid the latitude of this harbour to be 70" 18' 11"; and, on examiniiij; the land farther, I found that the inlet to the north of the passage approached within a mile of us, while the intermediate space was occupied by a chain of three lakes nearly filling a sort of valley ini(, This cape was therefore a kind of peninsula. From one of the hills, nothing was visible to the northward but one vast sheet of ice, IfUMff W" TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 426 pressed up into hummocks, extending round lo the western bay, and completely blocking up our late harbour. It seemed therefore as if we had just got out of it in time, whether it should be our fate to get any farther or not. {August 31) The wind fell, and we went on shore to examine the stale of things in the strait; when we found every thing blocked up with ice : it was impassable. We shot two hares, and found them already in their winter dress. Round the ship, the bay ice was troublesome, but no heavy pieces came in. The wind then came lo the south-west, and we hauled farther out, in case of a fa- vourable change. The month of August was ended, and we had sailed four miles. It had been as unpromising a month as it had been an anxious one. The mean temperature was lower than in the preceding August; the snow remained longer on the ground, and fewer of the animals which, in these countries, migrate to the north had ap- peared. The ice was not so much decayed as it had been last year at the same period, and there h; d been much less motion among it. If the last days were the only good ones for our purpose, they had brought us four miles, to the place I had n::'iied 3Iundy har- bour, in 1829. And here we were prisoners: yet the prospect was not absolutely bad, since we could have got out of it last year, as late as the fourth of October, and such might be the case again at an earlier period. It was an unpleasing circumstance to know, that although we had no men absolutely sick, and there had been no scurvy, the heaUh of our crtn in general v.as not what it had been; as they had also proved ihat they werx, incapable of bearing fatigue, and especiaily the travelling amonj] ice. T'; t it had btcu a dull moulh, o\i the whole, to us, I need scarcely say. I fear thai this meagre journal bears but too evident marks of it, and on more occasions than the present. But what can the journalist do, more than the navigator? If this was a durance of few events, an.4. those of little variety, even these had no longer aught to mark a differf;nce among them, nothing lo attract allenlion or excite thought. The sameness of every thing weighed on the spirits, and the mind itself flagged under the want of excite- ment; while even such as there was, proved bul a wearisome ilera- ^1 1 \^-i .,;*.^4 426 SECOiND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lion of what had often occurred I)eforc. On no occasion, even when all was new, had there heen much to interest; far less was there, now that we had so long been imprisoned to almost one spot : and. with as little to see as to reflect on, there were not materials from which any thought, keeping clear of the equal hazards of falsity or romance, could have constructed an interesting narrative. On the land there was nothing of picturesque to admit of description : the hills displayed no character, the rocks were rarely possessed of any. and the lakes and rivers were without beauty. Vegetation tiino was hardly any, arid trees there were none; while, had there even existed a beauty of scenery, every thing was suffocated and de- formed by the endless, wearisome, heart-sinking, uniform, cold load of ice and snow. On the sea, there was no variety; for here, equally, all was ice during the far greater part of the year, and it was thus indifferent what was water and what land. Rarely did the sky show aught to rci)lace this dearth of beauty and variety below; all the means of picturesque di';play were wanting, and when we turned to the moral picture, whal was it but the rare sight of men whose miserable peculiarities were too 'united to interest us long, and whose ideas were exhausted at almost the first meeting;. AVho, confined to such materials as these, shall hope to produce ;i book '^f interest and amr.v.ment? It is worse than the condemna- tion to "make bricks without straw." {Sept. 1) To-day the ice set in, and carried away one of oin- warping lines, obliging us to let go the bower anchor; after which the ship was secured within twenty yards of the shore, with a piece of ice grounded between us anil the rocks, and with another at hand to which we might moor if necessary. Tlierc were rain and sno'«v on the secoiid of September, and the passage was navigalde; but we ?;ould not attempt it till the morning's tide. {Sept. 3) The wind then came to blow from the north:, and, in the evening, Ihc ice A\ the strait had made it impassable. At night there was a gale vith snow. [Sept. 1) Nothing could be done on Sunday, the ice driving up and down in a con!j|>.:ct iiiass ; so that it was cci every sense a day of rest. The gale continued on the fi(u '.ill noon, and was succeeded by a fall of snow, so ihat we could not see the state of ice in the strait. The land was quite covered on the following morning {Scpi.G}, and the wind and ebb together brought the ice into the bay >."\i. .Ill" TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 427 with such rapidity, that the ship couUlnot be warped back in time, and we were obMged to take to one of the grounded masses for fear of being carried on the rocks. Here we had to sustain much heavy pressure, and were hfted up two feet, with a heel to starboard; being thus obliged to remain during four hours in this awkward position. The ice afterwards receding, we were enabled to warp up to the shore under cover of a quay formed by a large piece of an iceberg. There were showers of snow in the evening, and the ice was all close set outside. {Sept. 7) This day was moderate, but all attempts to get a view from the high land proved in vain, in consequence of a storm of snow. On the next {Sept. 8), there being a northerly wind, the ice in the offing was observed to drive rapidly to the southward. It was the same on the following {Sept. 9), with variations of the wind and weather; and the larger lakes were almost entirely frozen over, whereas the small ones had escaped. The harbour was covered with ice in the evening, and the thermometer fell to l24». {Sept. 10) It was even more completely sheeted with bay ice on Saturday, and, in the offing, all was motionless. Nature did not permit Sunday {Sept. 11) to be other than a day of rest, even had we been inclined to transgress its laws. On Monday {Sept. 12) it blew hard from the northward, and the ice was worse packed than ever, if that could be. After four hours of variable wind, it settled in the north on the next day [Sept. 15), and in the evening, blew a gale, with clear weather : the temperature, for the first time this month, being under 20". The ice remained unaltered. { Sept. 14 ) The new ice was thick enough to skate on ; but it was an amusement that we would gladly have dispensed with. Hyde Park is doubtless a great regale to those who can exhibit their attitudes to the fair crowds who flock to see that which the sex is reputed to admire : and it is a regale, in a better sense, when the power of flying along the surface of the glassy ice, as the fishes glide through the water, and the birds float in the air, with a velo- city that requires no exertion, is of an occurrence so rare, and is confined to so short a season. In another way, is this almost siqiernatural mode of motion delightful not less than useful, when the milk-maids of Holland can thus sail with ilieir commodities to a market, the rivals, not of steam-boats and mail-coaches, but of the birds and the fishes. Yet more than delightful is it, to see the ice ■m. I -■ 1!' i ■i .■ ■•»r : I I-. >- l t. 428 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ;1 holidays of Sweden and Russia, when all the world is in motion, as well by land as by water, yet where land and water are but one element; when all the chivalry of each sex, all thoughtless of any- thing beyond the present moment, is absorbed in the minutes that pass, as if the whole world had no otheroccupation than to fly from all care and thought, to leave every thing behind them, even as the lightning flashes through the regions of space, heedless of all that exists beneath its burning career. But what had we to do with all this? To us, the sight of ice was a plague, a vexation, a torment, an evil, a matter of despair. Could we have skated the country over, it would not have been an amusement; for there was no object to gain; no society to contend with in the race of fame, no one to admire us, no rivalry, no encou- ragement, no object. We had exercise enough without this addi- tion; and worst of all, the ice which bound us and our ship in fetters of worse than iron, which surrounded us, obstructed us, imprisoned us, annoyed us in every possible manner, and thus haunted and vexed us for ten months of the year, had long become so odious to our sight, that 1 doubt if all the occupation which llie skating on it could have afforded us, would not rather have been a grievance than an enjoyment. We hated its sight, because we hated its eff'ecis ; and every thing that belonged to "t, every idea associated with it was hateful. Is there any one who loves the sight of ice and snow? 1 imagine, now, that I always doubted this : 1 am quite sure of it at present. The thought of ice may possibly suggest agreeable sensations in a hot July day; the sight of a Swiss glacier, in the same weather, is ''refreshing," I doubt not. This also is picturesque, I admit, as are the frozen summits of the Alps, particularly under the rosy tints of a rising or a setting sun. These, and more, are beauties; and they are not the less beautiful that ihey are, to some, rarities, while they are also characteristic, and are portions of a general landscape, to which they give a new and peculiar interest, as they add to its varieties. In the present days, it is not also a little in praise of ice, that the traveller can say, 1 have visited Switzerland, I have scrambled across a glacier, I have seen the sun rise on Mont Blanc while the earth below was still in shade, 1 have ascended it, I, even 1, the fearless r^d enterprizing, have ascend- ed the father of mountains, yea, even when the guides hung TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 420 back in fear. Even thus is ice beautiful, rcgalinf;, acceptable. Thus, too, is snow the deli(;ht of schoolboys: have we not all hail- ed the falling feathers, because we should now make snowballsand pelt each other, and erect a statue of heaven knows who, a colossus of snow, to melt away, like the palace of the great female autocrat, before the sun. Is it not, loo, the emblem of virgin purity and inno- cence, and might not much more be said in praise and admiration of snow? It is an evil, however, to balance against all this, that it deforms all landscape, destroys all "keeping," by confounding distances, and with that, proportions, and with that, too, more and worse than all else, the harmony of colouring: giving us a motley patchwork of black and white, in place of those sweet gradations and combinations of colour which nature produces, in her summer mood, even amid the most deformed and harsh of landscapes. These are the objections to a snow landscape, which even the experience of a day may furnish : how much more, when, for more than half the year, all the element above head is snow, when the gale is a gale of snow, the fog a fog of snow, when the sun shines but to glitter on the snow which is, yet does not fall, when the breath of the mouth is snow, when snow settles on the hair, the dress, the eyelashes, where snow falls around us and (ills our cham- bers, our beds, our dishes, should we open a door, should the external air get access to our "penetralia;" where the " crystal stream" in which we must quench our thirst is a kettle of snow with a lamp of oil, where our sofas are of snow, and our houses of snow : when snow was our decks, snow our awnings, snow our observa- tories, snow our larders, snow our salt; and, when all the other uses of snow should be at last of no more avail, our coffins and our graves were to be graves and coffins of snow. Is this not more than enough of snow than suffices for admira- tion? is it not worse, that during ten of the months in a year, the ground is snow, and ice, and " slush ;" that during the whole year its tormenting, chilling, odious presence is ever before the eye ? Who more than I has admired the glaciers of the extreme north ; who more has loved to contemplate the icebergs sailing from the Pole before the tide and the gale, floating along the ocean, through calm and through storm, like castles and towers and mountains, gorgeous in colouring, and magnificent, if often capricious, in form; and have I too not sought amid the crashing and the spUlting and »c;i »i \ ■„.■., : T i i ! I \i ''\ i 1 \ ^ 1 1 4 1# "'m !t"'^!^-^ . ll^ 430 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY It. ^iiH,.f the Ihiinderinfj^ roarings of n sea of moving mountains, for the snN- limc, and foil that nature could do no mon''^ In all this there has licen beauty, horror, danger, every thing thai eould excite; llicv would have excited a poet even to the verge of madness. I>iit to see, to have seen, ice and snow, to have felt snow and ice lor ever, and nothing for ever but snow and ice, during all the months of a year, to have seen and felt but uninterrupted and unceasint; ice and snow during all the months of four years, this it is that h.is made the sight of those most chilling and \M'iuisome objects an evil which is still one in recollection, as if the remembrance would never cease. (Sept. 115) There was now no open water to be seen from the hill. The general tcmperatiu'c was 32", but it did not freeze in the sun ; a petty consolation indeed. The record of the sixteenth of September was not belter, and Saturday {Sept. 17) left us as it had found us. It is little to notice, but much where there was nothinii; else to remark, thai a great many grouse had been killed in the last week. In such a life as ours, even the capture of an arctic mouse was an event: and if it is the custom, now, for navigators to tell every thing, to write without materials, what could we do but follow the fashion, and conform to the established usages? {Sept. 18) Sunday exempts me from any record. 3Ionday {Sept. 19) does not furnish one, if it be not that we were employed in sawing the bay ice about the ship, in case the outer mass should sci it in motion and annoy us. This it did in spite of our precautions : since the heavy ice from the outside pressed upon it during the i^oHowing «^ay (Sept. 20), yet without doing us any harm. (Sept. 21) It blew fresh, with the wind to the northward; in consequence of which the ice drifted, but still remained slalionarv at the harbour's mouth, so that we gained nothing. On the next morning (Sepi. 22), the old ice S. 431 ■^-JTT^ I i;ave us some atlditionjil Iroublt', Iml llicn; was no f;oo(l to Nalanrc it. For the proseiil, we weir ''luird .lud fiisl :" I do iiol well know who expected niiylhini; Neller to follow. If any one was silly enoii)>h to do this, he was disappointed. ( Sept. W ) The only addition that a storm and drift snow could make, was that of preventing us from wasting our time in hojies or speculations : there was nothing to be seen, and nothing was now left for conjecture. We had at least the certainty, on the f(dlowing (lay {Sf'pt. 27 ), of clear weather, that the ice was as closely packed as it could possibly be : it is some gain in this life not to be troubled with hoping. A gale of wind on the twenty-eighth of September could not have mended the state of things : but whatever was the fact, the snowdrift was such that we could see nothing. In the last (lays, the thermometer, at night, had ranged between 16" and 50". The two following ones {Sept. 29, 30), were as nothing; and the end of the month found us exacllv in the same condition, with our prospects of freedom becoming ' every day. I may indeed say that they had (-(lased. It was impossible to expect any farther progress under such a mass and weight of winter as that which surrounded us : even in a much better one, it was not to have been expected. The worst part of the prospect, however, was the distant one ; it seemed likely that the siiip would never be extricated, and that we should be compelled to abandon her, with all that was on board. Rut I believe this dream was like many others which men form, under the usual condition of life. We fear evil events, or rather, I believe, imagine that we fear them, and then argue or talk our- selves into the belief that they must really happen; while our soberer judgment, under the solitude of our own thoughts ( unless these should be those of the naturally despairing or the hypochon- driacal), is that the probabilities are in our favour, that the evil which we imagined ourselves to fear, will never occur, that some- thing, we neither know nor consider what, will extricate us from the evil, as we have been extricated before. Thus did we fear and hope, anticipate in despair, and then anticipate a far other prospect; relief, escape, triumph, the retinn to our own home in England, and a return to boast of what we had attempted, what we had suffered, what we had ''eared, what we had achieved. The uniformity of our journal gives to the whole record of I*!'' :*l| :i' ■■Si . f IM/GE EVALUATrON TEST TARGET (MT-S) .V- ^<^ 1.0 I.I L25 III 1.4 2.0 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^^ iV \ :\ LV '^^ % 6^ '.y «. (/. ¥ ^ 6^ > 432 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY this month, a tranquil appearance; as if nothing was out of the common order, and as if we had been all, like the ship, at peace. It was a very different thing, however, as our minds were con- cerned; but what is a journal of hourly hopes and fears, of fears indeed more than hopes, to those who cannot feel them ; of regrets under which we could not, on examination, blame ourselves, and of that anxiety which has no repose ? Do men write, on such occasions, what they think and what they feel? I should desire other proof of this than any which I have yet seen. The every-day work, and, above all, when that every- day work is to exert ourselves for the preservation of life, were there even not the heavier, the ever down-weighing duty of pre- serving the lives of others, leaves little time for any reflections but those which the circumstances demand. I a.n much mistaken if the time of action is that also of reflection, of other thoughts at least than are imperious for the ends in view. We act, because we must, and, for the most part, I hope, rightly : a time comes, when we can think of what we did, and when, I suspect, we only imagine what we then thought : but it matters little : historians imagine what other men thought two thousand years since, and surely we have as much right to believe that what we think now was what we our- selves thought a year before. On the men, the effect was tangible, because it was simple. When we first moved from our late harbour, every man looked forward to his three years' wages, his return to England, and his meeting with friends and family ; the depression of their spirits was now proportionate. They were not less in haste perhaps to relate their adventures, most of them having kept journals ; but, at present, it was better not to dwell on these matters, by any pre- mature discussions : the time of resolving what was to be done, and of labouring to effect it, was to come ere long. Compared to the preceding Septembers in point of temperature, the present stands thus to that of 1829 and to that of 1830, namely, having a mean of 6 degrees less than the first, and of 4 degrees less than the last : and in the three, the extremes stand thus : 1829 highest 40" plus, lowest 17° plus. 1830 do. 43 plus, do. 5 plus. 1831 do. 56 plus, do. 6 plus. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 43 ;i The comparison of Ihe weather is more remarkable. In 18:29. there were storms, which broke up the ice, and finally drove it to the southward, so as to allow us to navigate this very sea at the same date. It was equally stormy in 1830, with the same effects : so that we could have sailed from the position in which we now were, as late as the fifth of October. But the present month had been generally a tranquil one ; there having been but one gale, and that late; while, as the chief winds had been from the east- ward, the blockade of the land and the sea proved complele. There was not an atom of water to be seen, and the ground was every where deep with snow. Our situation presented the usual mixture of good and evil. It was out of the track of animals, there were no rivers, and we did not know of any fish in the small lakes near us. If we could not therefore look for any supplies from those sources, neither could we from the natives, as the inl^rval between them and us was filled with impassable ice. If our aspect was a southern one. yet there were high hills to the southward, which much shortened the already too short visits of the sun. The harbour was safe ; much too safe indeed ; since, for all motion, not less than for ha- zard of injury, we might as well have been walled in with masonry on dry land. The first of the future objects was to economize in provisions, still more in fuel ; and, of course, to take all possible care of the health of the men. Their spirits were to be kept up as might best be ; and the topics of consolation could be found, whatever they might seem to the several different characters which our crew included. We were really on our return, and had made some progress ; while there was no reason why that should not be com- plete in the following year. There was still before us the Fury's remaining store ; and there were boats, to carry us into Davis's strait, should we be obliged to abandon the ship ; where we should either meet a whaler, or reach the Danish settlements in Greenland. If more was said than I here repeat, the usual result followed : the hopeful did not hope more, and the despcident continued to despair. n 21, 434 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XLVH. .10LR>'A.L OF OCTOBER— THE JOURNALS OF NOVEMBER AND DECEM- BER, AND THE END OF THE YEAR. {Oil. 1,1831) The weather was foggy and calm on Saturday, .ind was little different on Sunday {Oct. 2). On the following day {Oct. 3) the ice in the offing was in motion ; and, on the next {Oct. 4) the vessel was cut into a better berth, in ten fathoms water, while the rudder was unshipped. It came to blow on the fifth, and the outward ice began to move and drift to the north- ward, showing some open water at daylight about a mile from the ship. We therefore cut channels in the new ice, that we might he prepared should it open more ; but it became calm in the even- ing, and all remained as before. ( Oct. 6, 7, 8) On the three last days of the week the temperature WPS between 16° and 19" ; the weather being variable, with a north- erly breeze on Saturday, which caused a lane and a pool of water in the offing ; but this was all that occurred to mark the first week of October. ( Oct. 9) Sunday was only noticeable by the thermometer falling to 8", and by the disappearance of the little open water of the pre- ceding day. On Monday {Oct. 10) we began to unbend the sails and dismantle the ship. It would have been keeping up the farce of hope much too idly to have delayed this longer. ( Oct. 11 ) An observatory on shore was therefore commenced : we were at home for the remainder of another year; such home as it was. The weather was little noticeable on the following days. {Oct. 12, 13, 14) The unrigging and stowing on shore went on, and a chain was passed twice round the vessel " a midships." It was our intention to sink the vessel, or rather, as she must sink in no long time, in consequence of her leaks, to provide the means of raising her again, should any vessel hereafter return to the place where she was thus deposited, in safety equally from winds, waves. 1^ TO THE ARCTIC KEGIONS. 435 ice, and Esquimaux. Of Ihe wisdom of this provision for Ihe fu- ture, for a future as unlikely to occur as that of a season of sprinf, and roses in Boothia Felix. 1 have not much to say ; but it is pro- Itahly our nursery education, as it may be something else, which induces us to do all that we can in prevention of waste, or, like our grandmothers, to preserve old rags, or what not, because their turn of service will come round at some indefinite future, should we live on to that problematical period ; which does not, 1 believe, v( ry often arrive. Having effected this operation, the anchors were carried on short, iiiid the boats turned bottom upwards on the ice. Part of the liousing was also set up, and the week ended with the thermometer at 10" {Oct. 15, 16). A lane of clear water was again seen to the northward, but this had now become a matter of indifference. Clear water or ice, all was now the same : it was very certain that we had now settled ourselves for the w inter. In other days and other navigations such a sight w as even more than hope : it was now long since it had been but the water of Tantalus : yet even less than that, since the certainty of disappointment had so far paralyzed all hope, that we had not even the pains of anxiety to torment us. All was now indifferent : we were locked up by ir- riiptable chains, and had ceased equally to hope or to fear. There was variable weather on the seventeenth of October, but it was fine for the season, though attended-by occasional falls of snow. {Oct. 18, 19) The temperature went on gradually subsiding till it reached zero on Thursday night {Oct. 10), and was once at minus 2"; being the first fall as yet to this part of the scale. At this time there was a strong northerly wind, with snow. The usual work of the ship and its winter arrangements served to occupy these days, and it was fortunate that there was work to do; what else on earth could have preserved us from despair? {Oct. 21 ) The maximum of this day was minus 2"; and it was a very low temperature for this month, compared to that of the for- mer years. On the following {Oct, 22) the lowest was minus 14". {Oct. 23) The temperature was but little higher during this day, and on Monday {Oct. 24) it fell to minus 23°; making the whole fall oO" within three days, A few hares and grouse had been seen, and some were shot, while the track of a glutton had been also ob- served. Part of our own occupation was to continue the survey of ■'w^! .1,1 y-:^ ,1 1^1 Ifl^'u 436 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the present spot, so as to complete our chart, and to take the alti- tudes of the hills ; while, if our work is not accurate as well as mi- nute, it was not at least for want of time. There was a storm on the twenty-fifth of October, and it blew so violently as to tear into rags the canvas of our housing, which had now gone through a long service. We could not even attempt lo save it, from the great danger of exposing the men to the cold. I'l'om the north, the wind changed to the south on the following day {Oct. 26); and when we could look out, we found that it had cleared the hills of snow. It continued variable during the remainder of the week {Oct. 27, 28), with a temperature about zero; and the reconstruction of a housing found full employment for the people. ( Oct, 30) The weather on Sunday was fine, but the thermometer fell lo 7° minus. Two reindeer had been seen on the lakes, some- what unexpectedly; and, on Monday {Oct. 31), it was remark- able that the temperature ranged between 11" minus, and 17° plus. The summary of this October cannot be much, in detail, and is of as little moment in point of interest. Some preparations for sinking the ship in spring, had been made, as I have already no- ticed, under our project of travelling by land and by boats to the place of the Fury's stores. Every thing, except the provisions and stores indispensable for our use, had been landed ; and the two boats had been placed in such a position as to admit of the construc- tion of sledges under them. The temperature had ranged from 22° plus to 23° minus ; the mean had been 8° plus, and the extremes 29" plus and 25° minus. The thickness of the sea ice was found to be nineteen inches on the last day of the month ; and, of that on the lake, twenty-two. On the health of the crew there is nothing new to observe. The first five days of November exhibited no remarkable changes, and there was work enough for the men, in banking up the ship with snow, in building observatories, and in other arrangements similar to those formerly recorded. The highest range of the ther- mometer was plus 20", and the lowest minus 2". On Sunday {NovM it fell to 16° minus in the evening, aud to 17° at midnight. The weather, consequently, was cold. We had not yet been sufficiently trained to the new winter. Of this training to temperatures which men undergo, 1 have i«. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 437 spoken before; and every season of our long experience in this country served to convince me still more of the truth of our con- clusions on this subject. It is not my business to explain the fact or assign the reasons ; why do not the physiologists, who know every thing, tell us the cause, give us at least a wordy theory, if they can not do more? I have seen the same under all temperatures, in the West Indies and the East; in Sweden, and here in the extreme north of America, under the equinoctial line, and beyond the arctic circle, let I know not how to believe that those who remigrate from India, west or east, to England, endure the first winter better than the second, that they have been so thoroughly heated, as they imagine, by a few years' residence in the tropical regions, as to re- quire a year's cooling to make them sensible of a lower tempera- ture. But words perform greater wonders than this : it has been once so said, they have heard it, and they believe, as men believe in ghosts and much more, because their nurses have so taught them. {Not\ 7 to 12) The week that followed proceeded in a very uni- form and uninteresting manner. The weather was, on the whole, mild, compared with Sunday, and though variable, was, for the most part, fine. Yet the thermometer reached minus 19" on Mon- day. After this, it went on rising till the tenth, when it came up to plus 17° at midnight, ending on Saturday night at 7°, after hav- ing fallen to minus 2" at mid-day. The usual labour, observations, exercise, and shooting, went on, and we were in need of them all. {Nov. 13 to 19) There is not a novelty to mark the days onwards from Sunday till the following Saturday. The character of the weather changed many times in every day, but it was never very bad. On the whole, it was becoming colder, and the lowest mid- night thermometer was 20° minus : on the Thursday it was as high as plus 17«. The deck was covered with snow in the usual man- ner, for our protection during the remainder of the winter, which was now fully arrived. [Nov. 20^0 26) If there was any difference between this week and the preceding, it was that it felt colder, on account of frequent northerly breezes, though the thermometer did not once fall so low; having never been beyond 18°, while not often lower than 7" or 8° minus. The first threatening of scurvy in one of the men was observed at this lime : and on this subject I am bound to offer a few remarks. it .....m.i. '^^3l If >♦ I* S 438 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Every reader of voyages well knows what defeats of naval expe- ditions have been often the result of this terrific disease, how often the crews of ships have not merely been rendered ineffective, Ixit have been destroyed by it; facts for which it would suffice to refer to Lord Anson's voyage. It is known too, that it has raged with peculiar severity in the crews of vessels navigating these norlh(!rn climates, and not only in men at sea, but among those who had wintered on shore; as is amply testified by the destruction of (he Dutch crew so often narrated. For this latter fact, the nature of the food and the country will account to medical men, so that 1 need not dwell on the particulars. It is true that the greater precautions, of various kinils, which have been adopted in both the naval and mercantile service since the time of Cook, have most materially diminished this evil ; yet we were placed in circumstances that every modern precaution and all our attentions could not have been expected to resist, and to resist for so long a period. Notwithstanding all this, the event that I have just recorded was the first real appearance of this dreadful scourge ; as the subsecpienl record of this voyage, even to the moment of quitting this country after four years of detention, and during the whole of what I may almost call one long winter, unparalleled, too, for its severity, shows that it never very seriously assailed our people. and, almost without exception, was the cause of serious injury to none. That this was the consequence of care, cannot be doubled : how far the effect is due to the commander of the expedition, does not become me to say ; but care there was, and on the part of more Uiaii myself, or the good results in question could never have been. It juust be seen, in the first place, that we were entirely cut off from one of the best known and most effective means of prevention and remedy ; since the country produced no vegetable food, nor could our men learn the use of fish oil, which I believe to be one of the antiscorbutics provided by nature for the inhabitants of these frozn climates. It is not less true that a large proportion of our provi- sions consisted in the usual salt meat, of pork at least ; but if we had an occasional resource in the fish which we found in the country, and in the preserved meat, the vinegar, the sugar, and the lemon- juice of our stores, I doubt if these, which have so often proved of TO THE ARCTIC REGIOINS. 4:i9 small efficacy, would have mainlaincd our men lu health tlunuii s(» long a perioil, and in such a climate. There was more wanted ; and that we obtained l»y those altcntioiis which 1 must now point out: for the benefit of future navigators iii the same country. The southern whalers assert, that as a want of water is one of the most efficient causes of scurvy, so Ihey find a re- medy in supplying this to their crews, without stint. In this mai- ler we imitated their practice, though obliged for the most part to obtain our own water through artificial heat. N\ ilh the same vien . we never suffered our people to remain in their wet clothes, as our contrivance in warming Iheir habitation between decks, and in car- rying o(f the steam generated in it, maintained this place in a staN' of perpetual comfort and dryness. Hardy, in addition, were they ever so long exposed to cold as lo suffer materially from it ; knowing well, as we did, how this sourc<' of debility tends to the production of the disease in question. Being further, too. aware of the value of exercise for the same purpose, it was my object to find them constant employment, or when this w as impossible, from the attention paid to Ihe Sundays, and from the nature of the weather, they were commanded to walk, for a certain number of hours on the shore, or if this was impracticable, on our well-roofed and sheltered deck. Further than all this, and I may name it as the last precaution, their minds were never suffered to brood over evils or to sink into despair, as far as it was in our power to prevent this : while I may say, that on the wliole, our efforts were highly successful. Yet if I still add, the restriction at first in the use of spirits, and at length the final abandonment of this false and pernicious stimulus, I havr- litlle doubt that I thus cut olf one of the causes, which, ii' it ):^v not absolutely generate scurvy, materially assists others in the pr( duction of that disease. Such is what I have thought it useful lo state on this subject ; if they were not the true causes of our exemption, they are all that now occur to me; but though I should have made any mistake in this matter, I can still appeal to the result. We were almost entirely free from this disease for a very long period ; we suf- fered but little, even at the worst ; and I brought back to England a crew which, as it had liltle cause of complaint when in this horrible climate, has now no reason to repent of any ti,., Sli it ■►. ^! \ 440 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY of the rigours which it braved, or the sufferings which it endured. (JVor. 27 to 30) The thermometer being now 20° minus with a fresh breeze, the men were unable to walk after divine service. On Monday it fell to 3o", and on Tuesday to 40" in the middle of the day. The lowest of the four days was 42" minus. We had passed the freezing point of mercury once more; but the weather being calm, the men were not prevented from walking outside of the shij). The thickness of the sea ice at the end of this month was two feci nhie inches. With the exception of a few days it had been a mild month, Hu- sky being very generally cloudy and overcast : a fact which, as is now well known to every one conversant with the theory of heat, is sufficient to account for this state of things. We had, indeed, abundant experience to make us dread a bright and clear sky ; and, while we knew well (apart from all knowledge that we might possess respecting the radiation of heat) how to value an overcast and cloudy one, even to long for the " coelum nubibus foedum " of our own dear England, so did we often cease to regret the fogs that covered us (when, at least, they did not obstruct our travelling), by know- ing, as well as feeling, that with the few well-known exceptions which I need not here relate, they served to keep us warm. The mean temperature for this month turned out to be 9" higher than that of last November, and 15" higher than that of the same month in 1829 j but it ended wih a severity far exceeding either of them. We had improved the method of covering the deck, by placing a layer of gravel and sand beneath that of snow, which prevented the heat below from melting it. Other improvements, suggested by experience had been made in the internal accommodations. Our allowance of bread had been necessarily reduced, but so was that of salt meat: notwithstanding which last alteration, and the use of spruce beer, six men were slightly afflicted with scurvy : which, however, was checked by means of lemon-juice. Their despondency seemed to have ceased. Very few celestial observations had been obtained, in consequence of the state of the sky; but the magnetical ones and others had proceeded. The sport on shore had been far better than we had an- ticipated, including hares, grouse, and willow partridges. (Dec. 1 ) The first day of this month was very cold, with a tern- TO THE AUCTIC REGIONS. 441 peralure of 11" minus : and the following ( Dec. 'i) did not differ. At six on the morning of the third of December it blew a heavy gale from the north; threate ng once more to destroy our roof, which was secured with some difficulty. On Sunday {Dec, 1) it was still worse, with a heavy drift ; and the result was, as soon as we could see anything, to And that all the hills had been laid bare, and the valleys filled with snow. It did not moderate till the evening of the following day {Dec, 15), with a temperature of minus 6". It became calm and fine, on the sixth of December, and I ascend- ed a hill, estimated at a thousand feet high. Thence I was sur- prised to see the sun's upper limb, passing in azimuth : it had disappeared astronomically, on the 2!5th of November, nor had we seen it since the 23d, through any refraction. Under the same extraordinary refractive power in the atmosphere, the islands were also raised far higher than I had ever seen them. {Dec. 7 to 10) There was nothing interesting hence onwards till Saturday. The wind was from all quarters alternately, and the lowest mark of the thermometer, being on the last of the week, was 22° minus. (Dec. 11 to 17) Sunday came in with a strong northerly gale, which, w ith a temperature of 24° minus, made it very cold. On Monday at noon it moderated, so that the next day was calm and clear ; but another gale sprang up on the fourteenth, blowing hard during the two following days, but ending in a calm and clear Saturday. The temperature varied during the week between 2° and 31° minus. {Dec. 18 to 24) It being calm and clear on Sunday, the tempera- ture fell to 3o°. It continued fine till the twentieth at night, when it blew a storm, and the thermometer rose to 8°; while that gale, with severe drift snow, increased till midday on the twenty-first, subsiding to a calm in the evening. Thus it continued till the twenty -fourth, the thermometer having ranged between 24° and 36°. {Dec. 215) Christmas-day was made a holiday in all senses. In the cabin dinner, the only fact worth remarking was, a round of beef which had been in the Fury's stores for eight years, and which, with some veal and some vegetables, was as good as the day on which it was cooked. I know not whether the preservation of this meat, thus secured. 'Ti?Ti 1 ^ 1 1' ''^.■t;„.; A] RliiV •i, , II •144 SECOND VOYAGE 0! DISCOVERY he interminable or not; but what we brought home is now. In I8.W, as good as when it went out rrom the hands of the maker, or whatever l>c his designation, the Gastronome for eternity in short, in 1825. If it can be kept so long without the sUghtest alteration, without even the diminution of flavour in such things as hare soil]) Mid purde of carrots, why may it not endure for ever, supposing that the vessels were themselves perdurable? Often have I ima- gined what we should have felt had Mr. Appert's contrivance ( of which, however, neither he nor his successors are the real disco- verers), been known to Rome, could we have dug out of Ifereu- laneum or Pompeii one of the suppers of Lucullus or the dishes of iVasidienus; the " fat paps of a sow, " a boar with the one h.ilP roasted and the other boiled, or a mur.'cna fattened on Syrian slaves ; or, as might have happened, a box of sauces prepared, not by 3Ir. Burgess, but by the very hands of Apicius himself. How mndi more would antiquaries, and they even more than Kitchener or Udc. have triumphed at finding a dish from the court of Amenophis or (^ephrenes, in the tombs of the Pharaohs ; have regaled over potted dainties of four thousand years standing and have joyed in writint]; books on the cookery of the Shepherd kings, or of him who was drowned in the Red Sea. It is possible that this may yet be, some thousand years hence, that the ever-during frost of Boothia Felix may preserve the equally ever-during canisters of the Fury, and thus deliver down to a remote posterity the dinners cooked in London during the reign of George the Fourth? Happy indeed will such a day be for the antiquaries of Boothia Felix, and happy the Boothia to which such discoveries shall be reserved. {Dec. 26 to 31) There was nothing to note in the next three days, but the loss of two of our dogs : a serious one now, since they could not be replaced, and were to form part of our future dependence. The remainder of this month was equaUy uniform and dull, and it ended with the thermometer at 27° : in the four first it had not been more than 37°. On cutting the ice on the last day, its thick- ness proved to be four feet in the sea, and six inches more in the lake. This month of December commenced with the mercury frozen ; but a change took place on the third, just after the new moon; and we experienced, for three weeks, such a succession of storms as we had never before witnessed. These had the effect of raising ■ ' • '> lU 1U£ VKCllt KEG1U>S. 44.1 •W. Ill er, 01' short. 'I'llion. e Ronp posini; I ima- ice ( of disco- llercu- islu's of ne lialf slaves ; not l»y \v much or Udo. ophis or r potted I writini][ *\ho wns be, some hia Felix iry, ami oked in y indeed d happy llic tcniprradirc. yet less than usual ; uhilo, though httle siiuw (ell, the tirifl was very great, siiiee that which had fallen was like tine Hour. The men wt-rc iimch reduced in slreni;th, hut the scurvy had heeu kept in cheek. One man alone, Dixon, being afflicted with a complieation of disorders, was not expected to live very long. The comparative view of the December of this and the two |»re- ceding years, may l)e thus abstracted : 18:20 Highest, lowest, and mean temperature — 8— 37- ii^.OH 1830 Ditto _ _ _ «— 47— ao.iil 1831 Ditto _ _ _ ~i— 12-^3.96 \ M' » 1' |t»f<»l ree days, ley could jendence. lull, and had not its thick- Ire in the frozen ; moon; )f storms >f raising (•ii' il 444 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY r 111 p o o o o ai O M H » O H U H pa S >• "^ .3 TJ " ift iM r- s? II II 1! >. >> B » vt 1- s® > « w -a" M o O ^« ? «) H !? CO o .Q A u So u en o» «5 ,• sig-^;g s o "... o M B r^o ja© en ^^ CO Id en s in 2 s 1 M c» CO So CO in 0> d a> ^ M 2 lO So e .Q .a !* 0!) 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THE JOURNALS OF JANUARY, FEBRUAllY, AND MARCH. {Jan. 1 to o, 1832) Sunday being past, we prepared our nilninij tools for the purpose of making a place of concealment for our stores. A very brilliant meteor, as large as the moon, was seen, finally splitting into sparks, and illuminating the whole valley. The thermometer fell to 36" on Tuesday, and to 40" on the following day; rising again but to reach the same point on the next, when there was a brilliant aurora of a golden colour, passing through the north star. 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A!HD PROVISIONS, WITH THE VIEW OF ABANDOM?(G THE SHIP— !>!A\— (;0>TI.NLVTIO> OF THE SA3IE WORK— THE SHIP IS ABANDONED. {/tprii\ to 7, 1832) It lilcw so hiird thai the men were impri- soned after divine serviee. On Monday it was more moderate, and the peojdc were employed in ciillinti; round the Krusenstern, pr- p.'iratory to hauhnp, her up. Tlie third, fourth, and fifth, beeamc gradually milder ; though the thermometer did not rise above juinus 14", and sank to 30° at ni[iht; hut on Friday it was again very eold. On Saturday the thermometer rose on a sudden to plus 7" : not having passed zero before, for 136 days. I do not believe there is another record of such a continuous low temperature : and it was a state of things, most certainly, to confM*m us in our reso- lution of leaving the ship to her helpless fate, and attempting to save ourselves in the best manner that we could. {April 8 /o 14) The thermometer fell once more to 20" on Sunday night, and then to 24" towards the Monday morning; after which it suddenly rose to plus 2°, with a considerable fall of the barometer, ending in thick weather and snow. That became a gale on the fol- lowing day, and did not moderate till the evening of the eleventh, after which it became calm. It was mild the next day, at plus 11". and, on the thirteenth, there was a heavy fall of snow, ending the week, on Saturday, with another mild day. One boat was com- pletely fitted on the double sledge. (^/>r//iy /o21) The fifteenth and two following days were mild, so that, after Sunday, our work went on. On the eighteenth, the cold weather brought us to a stand out of doors; but, on the next day, the boats were drawn on the sledges as far as the second lake, where they were found to answer as well as we had expected. We were ready to start on the following, but were prevented by the TO THE ARCTIC REGIO?(S. 401 snow fullinf; thick, with a temperature or28° iiiiriiis, even at noon and were therefore obliged to end the week as we were, with the thermometer at minus 18", when on the same day in last year it was plus 30°. {April 22) We could have done notliini; on this day, even ha«l it not been Sunday, as the thermometer was at minus 30"' in the morning, and never rose beyond 3" minus. I must explain Ih.it our present object was to proceed to a certain distance with a stock of provisions and the boats, and there to deposit them for the purpose of advancing more easily afterwards. The abandonment of ihc vessel had long ceased to be a matter of hesitation ; and the object now was to proceed to Fury beach, not only for supplies, but to get possession of the boats there ; failing which, our own would be put into a position on which we could fall back. {Jpril 23) Though the temperature was ecpially low, it was clear and calm. We therefore set out at nine, reaching the nearest boat, which had already been carried to the northern sea, about four miles from the ship; after which we drew her to the other boat and store of provisions, which was two miles farther. The weights were then divided equally, and we proceeded with great labour and difficulty, through rough ice, so that we were at length obliged to carry on but one at a time, returning for the other alter- nately ; in consequence of which we did not gain more than a mile, after five hours' work. It then began to blow so hard, with drift snow, that we were obliged to hall and build snow huls. These we covered with canvas, and by means of the deer-skin beds, and our cooking apparatus, the whole party of fourteen was well accommodated, though the temperature of our house at night was but 15», while it was as low as 30" outside. Degrees of a thermometer make little impression on readers ; and, above all, the minus side of the scale is powerless to those who have not lived in lands like that in question. The number thirty may catch the eye, without making the readers feel that it is sixty degrees under the freezing point. Our sleeping room, on this occasion, was forty-seven degrees under that point. How did we continue to sleep, how can men sleep in such a temperature? This is what 1 have tried to explain on former occasions, yet with very bad success, I fear, since, in this case, ihcre is no .exercise to generate heat, or counteract the effects of |.,l' ,, 'Im ■< ( wst tei: ■f — 4HQ SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY B i cold. Once more I miisl Iravc it lo the all-informed physioloi^isls. {April 21) We proceeded soon after noon, wllli the second boat, Ihron^jh the same kind of ice, and, after four hours, reached the sea-shore, where we fonnv<' : the boal tie second of a very il boat of irllier, lill ic fir»t (l.'iy re obliged pultinR It pnrposcs. in a short [ ourselves bich the ico amer,'' and , on many the '^good rs anil sup- w or go;il. as tbey best ppers, and not many, dinners or |e eatings of deeply this humanity. leing things lus moment 1 suppers to t»tion fori! to tell talcs lainment of reader!. The scanty uHowance of yesterday or to-day, the eipial prospect of as scanty an allowance tomorrow, formed no matter for aui^ht but serious thoug;hts , and even anxious care; rt was not a question alone wlKther wp should attain our object and execute our plans, but whelber w« :«botdd live or die. It 18 said that there is no jesting with a huM{;ry sloaiarli : there was assuredly none in our case, on this occasion, and on many previous and sub- sequent ones. Weshoubl not merely have ftiilcd in our endeavours, but we might have died, and left as a witness, those bones which would never have been recognised as the relics of philosophers who had come so far, to do— what has been done. Heaven only knows what would have been onr fate, had the animals of Ibis rountiy, with four legs or two, plundered our deposits on the various occa- sions where we bad trusted to their stupidity or their more than doubtful honour, or had the failure of our strength or our means of conveyance left us to the miserable and casual resource of a stray fox or a few gulls. We were imprisoned all the following day {April 26) by the storm; but it gate an advantageous rest to the men. On the twenty- seventh, early, we attempted to make way over the sea ice, where the road was so difiicuU that we did Dot gain more than three hundred yards in two hours. Reaching however, at last, the terra> farther. As they were now also within reach, in case we should TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 4H5 be compelled to return, I determined to proceed with the people, and three weeks' provisions, for twenty or thirty miles; leaving the rest here as a reserve, and sending an advanced party to Fury beach, to ascertain the state of things at that place. (J«/we 10^ At half-past one in the morning we accordingly set out, with three sledges, very heavy laden; since, besides the three weeks' provisions at full allowance, there were arms, ammunition, tools, instruments, clothing, and more. Some valuable articles, which we could not take, were left under one of the boats, which was turned up for this purpose, that they might be safe in case of our return. We halted at the south of the point which forms the bay already often described, and then proceeding, after mucii toil, from the badness of the ice, passed it at midnight. {June 11) The state of the way obliged us to make for the north point, where we pitched and had eight hours' rest. On the twelfth, we reached another point, and again encamped. Here the preparations were made for the advance of Commander Ross, with Abernethy and Park, who departed at ten, for Fury point, taking with them a sledge, fifteen days' provisions, a tent, and such other things as were indispensable. Their directions were to leave a note at every place where they slept, which we calculated on reaching in double the time, with our loads, so as to be advanced about se- venty miles when they should have reached to their journey's end now a hundred and fifty miles away. This was to allow them fif- teen in the day, and ourselves seven, which was as much as we could execute after losing three of our best men. {JunelZ) That party was soon out of sight; but we made a very slow progress ; being compelled to perform circuits where they had been able to cross. After nine hours, we halted on a point, but even yet could find no water at noon. At this place we left a depdt of provisions, and proceeded, afterwards, at four in the morning, while obliged shortly to halt, on account of the illness of the surgeon. {Juneli) It blew hard, with snow, and our quarters were very uncomfortable. We were detained during all the fifteenth of June by the same causes; but started once more on the next day {June 16), at seven in the evening, in spite of some falling snow ; passing over ice so deep with snow, and so full of cracks, that many of us ex- perienced severe falls. We found the note, and the cairn erected 22.. m 'iikMlllr;. iir itj^: \i J 496 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ris ft by the advanced party, about midnight, and completed a journey of nine miles. {June 17 ) In our march to day, we passed many small bays and points of land, and saw the blue mountains to the westward, about ten miles distant ; finishing ajourney of eleven miles by four in the morning. Here we made another deposit of provisions, and pro- ceeded at eight in the evening. We found water, for the first time, on the following morning (Jwwe 18), and halted at the second cairn which the advanced party had erected ; finding a note to say that they had been checked by lameness and by inflamed eyes. Our journey this night had not exceeded eight miles. (June 19) We had recommenced at eight last evening, and pro- ceeded ; finding, and seeing, all the land as completely covered with snow as if it had been winter. The thermometer had also sunk to 24° ; so that every pool was frozen, and we were again obliged to thaw for water. At nine in the evening we began again, in spite of a snow which continued all night, and arrived at two in the morning [June 20) at the third cairn, pitching, finally, at five, on a point where there were some marks of former native encamp- ments. Here we were obliged to dispense with water ; as there was none, and we could not afford fuel to melt ice. ( June 21 ) At two in the morning of this next advance, we came to another cairn that had been left by our predecessors ; but it had fallen down, and no note was to be found. We could however trace their intended route, by some stones which they had placed ; but that being too rough for us to follow, we took another course, and, after twelve hours of labour, halted at eight. ( June 22) While the men slept, I proceeded to examine the land, as we had not before been able to survey this part of the country ; and, after this, we proceeded in the evening, as usual, till we ar- rived al the south Grimble islands, where I found Commander Ross's cairn, being the end of his fourth day's journey. By his observa- tions we were twelve miles, and, by mine, eight, from the place where we had first taken possession on the tenth of August, 1829. As there were eight miles yet to make, before we could cross the inlet, we preferred sleeping on the ice where we were, and after six in the morning (June 23), leaving the men to their rest, I pro- ceeded to examine this inlet. After the usual measurements and observations, 1 ascertained its m TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 467 figure and extent, findinf; that its bottom gave entrance to a large river, and, consequently, that there was no opening, or passage to the western sea at this place, as might otherwise have remained a point in doubt. It was also evidently a shallow piece of water. Having proceeded at nine, we passed two considerable rivers : the northern part of this inlet, and, after that, several islands ; arriving at a point where we again found a cairn, with a note. We pitched on the south-east side, where I completed the survey of this bay. {June 24) At three on this morning we reached the fifth cairn of our advanced party ; and as the note reported all well, I calcu- lated that they would, at this date, have been two days at Fury point, and that they would consequently meet us on their return, in two days more. I therefore left a note at the cairn, informing them that we had passed it, and should keep close to the land ; as it was possible they might take a different road and miss us. {June%^) We accordingly continued our journey along shore, and passed a point, soon after which we met and joined Commander Ross's party. The information he brought from Fury point was, that the sea had risen high and carried off three of the boats, with many other things, to the northward, and that one of them was seriously damaged. All else was in the same condition as we had left it; and the bread and other provisions were in abundance and in good order. We all pitched for the day, and found, that with what they had brought, and some which they had deposited, there was enough to last us all on full allowance till we should reach that place. {June 26) After starting at eight last night, we proceeded in spile of a very cold fall of snow, till five, when we halted just after having passed the sixth of the advanced cairns. At two in the morning c" the twenty-seventh, we reached Cape Garry, and pick- ed up the provisions which had been left ; encamping in a strong breeze, accompanied by snow, which ended in a storm, lasting the whole day, with the thermometer at 32». {June 28 ) On this day we reached the land near the bottom of the bay, which seemed the outlet of a great river ; and though un- able to make a perfect survey, I not only found the water shallow, but could see the land so well all round, as to assure me that there was no passage westward in this direction. On the next {June 29 ) ■1.; >ifci Mt I! ifkqitj M*<--.^ (_ 468 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY we passed through much water, often above our knees : it was a novelty, yet not an agreeable one; but we traced it to the efflux of several small rivers at this part of the coast. {June 30) We resumed our journey as usual, being now obliged to carry the lame man, in addition to the rest of our load, and passed several low points and islands of limestone. The sun had a great effect on the snow, and the aspect of the land was hourly changing ; but, in the ofRng, the ice seemed as firm and continuous as ever. At noon the thermometer was at 47", and at midnight at 32". We had shot several ducks in the last few days, and they were somewhat better than a luxury to us, especially before our allowance had been increased. Finally, we ended the month within hail of Fury beach. {July 1) The water was now, at last, running down the large cracks in the ice, and every thing was hourly changing in appear- ance. Three ravines that we passed were also pouring down their respective torrents ; and at the foot of one of them we pitched our tents ; here also finding a cask of flour which had been washe 1 hither. The last part of our journey was unusually laboriosi^, from the wedged masses of ice, so packed as to denote the greal violence which they had undergone; but we dt length passed them all, and encamped on Fury beach at ten o'clock. ( July 2 ) We were once more at home, for a time at least, such home as it was, and however long or short was the time that we were destined to occupy it. There was the feeling of *y>me at least, and that was something : it had been once the home of all of us, since it had been our storehouse ; and it had twice been that of Commander Ross. The men I doubt not, felt this most, after all their feqrs, and the pleasure was little diminished to them, by any anticipations of what might yet be to come. The first measure which I adopted, was to send them all to rest for the night, th^t we might once more bring backahe regularity of our days ; and after this we proceeded to take a survey of llie stores. Being scattered in every direction, it was, however, difficult to prevent the half-starved men from gelling access to them ; in consequence of which, and in spite of all orders and advice, many suffered smartly for their imprudence. Excepting the damage done by the high rise of the sea, formerly mentioned, the only important one we discovered was the loss of candles, by the foxes. which As > severii which height was er per fr ourseI> ( Ju freezin there b peded ( had ov( the di8[ {Jul. being t house \ this tra( snowed erly gab degree c As it sno on the f( winter. The ci was, tha bulk he£ with sho mander them in occupy, 1 containir departmt account < {July was as he under fre service re Nothiuj T' TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. t««l which had opened some of the boxes and devoured the contoitH. As soon as Ihe men were rested, they were appointed to tl ir several tasks. The iirst thing to be done was to construct a hui , which was planned at thirty-one by sixteen feet, and seven feet in height, to be covered with canvas ; and, by evening, the frame was erected, while we ended this noted day with a luxurious sup- per from the stores which had been left when we first supplied ourselves from this deposit. {Juii/ 5) There was a fog yesterday, with the thermometer at freezing, though, before this, it was at 150°, and, on this morning, there blew a strong gale from the eastward ; which somewhat im- peded our work, as that was aided by the illness of the men who had overeaten themselves ; but the rest were employed in bringing the dispersed boals lo a proper place for being repaired. {Juiy 4) The first shower of rain for the season fell this day, being three weeks later than had ever yet been recorded. The house was finished, and received the nickname of Somerset house; this tract of land having been previously called North Somerset. It snowed on the fifth of July ; and this ended in a clctar north- erly gale, so cold, that the rain which had fallen, froze ; the highest degree of the thermometer being but 30°, as the lowest was 27". As it snowed again all the night, the land was as completely covered on the following morning ( July 6) as ever it had been during the winter. The carpenters were set to work on the boats ; the plan for which was, that each of them should be strengthened by means of two bulk heads and two strong beams. I had intended to rig the whole with shoulder of mutton sails, as the safest and best ; but Com- mander Ross preferring a sprilsail, was allowed to manage one of them in his own way. The house, which we now proceeded to occupy, was divided into two rooms, one for the men, and anothe-, containing four small cabins, for the officers : at present, the cook's department was a tent. The purser proceeded to take the regular account of provisions. {Juiy 7 ) The snow dissolved at night ; but the ice in the offing was as heavy as ever, and at night it snowed again, being two degrees under freezing. On Sunday {July 8) the usual regularity of divine service recommenced, after many unavoidable interruptions. Nothing of note occurred on many following days {July d toW), ■'lit i"Vh,' i 470 SECO?(D VOYAGE OF DISCOVF.RT uiilc88 it ho. thai the tenip(MMtiirc rose once to fSO", but was at Ihr frcc/iiit; point at nii;ht, on most days. It Itlcw hard on the twelfth, hnt moderated on the followinf; day : nor is there anything to record diirin{][ the whole of this week, on to Sunday, except that the work on the boats was in progress. (July 10 to 21 ) The weather was varial)!e diirin(; the three first days of the following week, and there was a little rain on Thurs- day. The snow was slowly disappearing, but the night temperature never rose beyond the freezing point. On one of these days I was able to ascend the highest hill, about a thousand feet high, whence 1 could perceive that the whole sea was a solid mass of ice, without motion, as far as the eye could reach. Some deep ravines, carry- ing no water but that from the melting of the snow, were, for this country, rather picturesque. ( Ju/y 22 to 31 ) Of the remainder of this month I need not give a detailed journal. The weather proceeded in the same manner, calm, windy, clear, hazy, and rainy, in rotation ; with a temperature at night gradually rising to 40°. Our work was uniform, consist- ing in the preparation of the boats and provii^ioiis : the occasional shooting of some dovekies and other sea birds formed but a small variety in this monotonous life. A slight disruption of the ice on the twenty-ninth, must not, however, pass without remark ; and it went on increasing on the following days. In putting in order the Fury's three boats, one of which had been exceedingly damaged, I had at first to regret that we had been obliged to leave our own behind, as they would probably have been ready sooner than the others, which might possibly detain us after the water was open. But as it turned out, all was ready together, and we were in a state of preparation for our voyage. The general temperature of this July shows a mean of plus 315". with the two extremes of plus SO" and plus 22". There had been rain but six times, and the first at a very late period; but there had been a good deal of snow. Vegetation was therefore very back- ward. The men having been now on full allowance, had improved in health. TO 1HE AROIIC REGIONS. 471 Tho folhwinf/ is an crpianation of the Mvtonrolnf/ical Tabirs fonnvdnttho i>nr<-HHlii){ Ihc iMinilit'r of hoiirit, and lhi°. «lfiiniiilnalor the illrcctloii. When Uu; HKurc ot-curit, lUiiinineitthal lh» wind wan nut In Ihedln-clion (KH«;d hy lhf> d('nunilnA(()r,dnrlnK th«> month. Tlit> Mini ptncrd to the riKht of tho dtMioniliiator, gi vo* tho total forcn of tho wind In the Hanio direction ; IhU will ho |{l ven In full hi the tahlOH of tho Appendix, doiiotoU by ntjnrcH iu tho folluwinn manner : 0. Calm. 1. i.lKht air , or Ju«tsiifn< 2. l.ltfhthroc'zo \ 3. Oonllo breozo I 4. Moderate Lrcozc ) 3. FroMi breeze ti. !^troIl^ breeze lit to rIvo Alcorago way. or that In which a man-of-war, with all Hall not, and clean full, would go ill •inootti water. or that which a wcll-condltlon- cd man-of-war would carry in chase full and by. I to 2 linotf. .1 to 4 knot*. 5 to (} kiiotn. Royals. Nlnglo- roofed topnalls and topKallant-Haih. Double-reefed toptialU Triplc-reefod toptalU. Close - reefed topsails and courses. 7. Moderate gale 8. Fresh gale 9. strong galo 10. A whole gale, or tliat which scarcely could car tho close-reefed iiiaia-tupsail and foresail. 1 1 . A storm, or that which would rcdu(;c her to storm staysails 12. A hurricane, or that which no canvas could withstand. 7\ ii'iii ^ 1 1 ; CHAPTER LI. AUGUST— DEPARTURE FROM FURY BEACH IN THE BOATS— DETE7«- TION, AND DIFFICULTIES ON THE COAST— SUMMARY OF AUGUST- TRANSACTIONS IN SEPTEMBER — BAFFLED IN OUR ATTEMPTS TO PROCEED — RETURN TOWARDS FURY BEACH — SU»1MARY OF SEP- TEMBER. {August 1, 1832) On the last day of the preceding month, the ice had unexpectedly broken up, so far as to leave some navigable clear water, and as the boats were also ready, we prepared to depart, with the hope of being able to quit this strait and reach Baffin's bay before the departure of the whaling vessels. The boats t^ml m\- 472 SECOIND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ;>! were stored with provisions till the lirst of October, besides the bedding and other needful things; and each carried seven men, witli an officer. Commander Ross and I exchanged copies of our charts and narratives, in case of separation ; and a bottle was buried in the house, containing a short account of our proceedings. We left the beach at four in the afternoon, but found the chan- nels in the ice very crooked, and much impeded by floating pieces, so that it was with difficulty we could use our oars. Our progress was therefore slow; and having passed two rivers, off which there was much heavy ice, we were stopped at nine o'clock under the very precipice where the Fury was wrecked. It being low water, and the northward motion of the ice ceasing at eleven, it was evident that it would soon return on us ; so that the boats were unloaded as quickly as possible, and hauled up on the beach. It was not a minute too soon ; since the ice immediately came down, and two floes near us were broken to pieces, with a violent crash, so as to form a ridge of hummocks close to the shore. The distance which we had thus made was eight miles ; and it was a singular coincidence that we experienced this narrow escape, not only where the Fury was wrecked, but on the same day that she was lost, eight years before. (August 2) We hoped that the flood would have caused the ico to open and shift in the night; but it became so much worse that wc were obliged to haul still higher, and to cut a dock for the boats in a large hummock : a position and a delay which gave the carpenters the opportunity of finishing some work that had been left incom- plete. Some rain in the course of the day loosened stones from the precipices, one of which struck a boat's mast ; and we found, from the fragments below, that the vicinity of this precipice, which was four hundred and seventy feet high, was a place of danger. This seems but a cool remark to make, where such a cliff, risiiif, to such an altitude, impended over our heads, and when we knew, what all know, the eff^ects of a thaw in throwing down those rocks which the previous ice has split. In reality, it was a position of the utmost danger : we might all have been overwhelmed, without notice, in half a minute, as the state of the beach below testified, or the brains of any individual among us might have been " knocked out " before he could have suspected any such accident. But 1 be- lieve that we were fully tried by hazards, and had become somewhat TO TUE ARCTIC REGIONS. 473 careless ; though a Utile reflection soon taught us that we need not add this unnecessary one to all that we had passed through and all that was still before us. (August 3) It was a most intolerable day of rain and sleet, with the thermometer at the freezing point during the night; nor did it clear till the following evening {August 4), while we were con- stantly annoyed by the falling of stones from the cliff. {August 15) The w ind continued from the north-east, but the ice was once more fixed, especially to the northward, and the temperature a degree lower. {August 6) It being at length fine, I walked to the northward, and saw a probability of our reaching a safer beach two or three miles off, where a stream entered the sea ; since there was consi- derable fear lest some of us should be killed, in our present posi- tion, by the incessant falling of the stones under the effects of the thaw, which was general in the day. We reached it at noon, with considerable difficulty ; and some water shortly afterwards opening, we passed more precipices, and succeeded in getting a few miles farther along the shore. We then found the water to the north- ward to be a solid mass of ice, and were obliged to haul up the boats, once more, on a beach where we were almost as much an- noyed by falling stones as we had been in our last position. {August 7) The thermometer was at 30° in the night, and did not rise beyond 40^ in the day : during which the outer ice moved a little, under {.strong east wind, but without any useful results to us. Foxes, gulls, and dovekies were numerous ; but we dared not fire, on account of the falling rocks, nor could we afford fuel for cooking, even had we succeeded. On the eighth of August, the ice threatened us, even on shore, such was its pressure; at any rate it secured our imprisonment. {August 9) The ice in the channel streamed off to the north, and at length opened just so much on the coast, as to allow us to em- bark at two o'clock. But we could not proceed more than two hours, and were then obliged to haul over rugged ice to the first beach we could fiad, since all was solid beyond us to the north- ward; while we had barely room for our tents under the precipice. The thermometer was never more than 3i° in the day, and fell to Z\° at night : it was absolute winter still. {August 10) It being fine weather on this day, we were able, by ■M^ 't -:.fc.i m I A 474 SECO]\D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lightening the boats, to track them along the shore to a better beach half a mile off, where we took our position at the foot of a cascade, bringing forwards what we had left. We attempted to move again the next day {Auoust 11 ) ; but were soon stopped by the ice, and glad to return to the place where we had a good position for the tents and an excellent harbour for the boats. On the twelfth of August we were imprisoned by snow and wind, and by the absolute closure of the ice. {August 13) As there was no change to day, Mr. Thorn was sent with a boat to Fury beach, for three weeks' provisions; there being open water in that direction, though there was none to the north of us. It blew hard from the north on the next day( August 14) ; but though the effect of the wind was to produce a pool of water near us, it did not open the passage. The squalls were so strong as to endanger our tents, and to disperse the cascade in mist. The night temperature was still 31" or 32°, and that of the day was 40°. {August \^) A note arrived from Mr. Thom, to say that he had reached Fury beach in three hours, had hauled the boat up about two miles off on his way back, and expected to return to us by the next tide. I accordingly sent two men to assist ; but the boat could not be got off, and they came back to us, therefore, with some of the provisions. On proceeding to examine into the state of things, next day {August 16), I found that the boat could not be brought along shore loaded, in consequence of the state of the ice; and, on this and the following {August 17), therefore, the stores which she contained were brought to our present position, and the boat was dragged up to remain till we were all once more reunited. {August 18) The weather was still colder, being 30° at night, while some fresh snow that fell remained till noon. {August 19, 20} On these two days tht re was a cold wind with much snow and thick weather, but it became clear on the twenty-first of August; the thermometer siniing to 29°, and the boats' harbour being covered with new ice o"! this and the follow- ing day {^August 22). That ice was two inches thick on the twenty-third of August ; but in the evening the weather became calm, and it did not freeze on that night. A whale was heard, but not seen. There was no change on the following day {August 24). and the ice was every where unbroken. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 476 er beach cascade, ve again ice, ami 1 for the velfth of absolute was sent jre being north of ustli:) ; of water so strong in mist. F the day at he had up about us by the )oat could some of f things, brought 5 and, on es which the boat Ireunited. at night. )ld wind ir on the and the |e follow- on the became [ard, but fast 24). { August 25) A cold no.'-'herly wind sprang up, and the tide rose eight feet, but without any effect on flie ice. There was snow again in the evening, at 29" of tempera ure. On the following day (August 26) it fell to 25", and the breeze was much stronger: it was left to us to guess whether this cold belonged to the old winter or was the commencement of a new one. The ice thus drifted to the southward, and the pressure was so great on our shore, as to force many heavy masses on the boats, higher than it had yet reached under any previous wind and tide. {August 27) The rise of this tide was nine feet; and as it was still blowing hard from the north, the ice passed quickly to the southward; when, veering to the north-west, it all began to leave the shore, and in two hours, the whole coast was cleared as far as we could see. At midnight it blew a gale, with heavy gusts from the precipices, so that our boats could scarcely lie where they were; and, very provokingly, the cascade was so frozen, that there was now no water to be obtained without thawing : the thermometer being at 26° at night. (August 28) It moderated at noon, and we embarked, proceed- ing under sail along shore, and exposed to very heavy squalls from the precipices, which rendered extreme care necessary: when, pass- ing Batty bay, we reached Elwin bay at midnight. We then stood for a beach about a mile farther north, and, as it was now blowing a whole gale, pitched our tents, amid a storm of snow, which, in the night, covered all the land. (August 29) I moderated, however, towards morning; and we put to sea by four o'clock, standing for the eJge of the packed ice, in the direction of Cape York. We then ran along it, in hopes of finding some passage; but it continued to lead us out of our course, till it joined to Leopard's island, so as to embay us : and as the wind was again increasing, it was with great difficulty we weathered it, so as to attain the land about a mile north of Cape Seppings, yet without being able to get to the beach, which was every where blocked up by heavy ice. There was snow, and the range of the thermometer in the twenty-four hours was from 30° to 36". We were obliged to sleep in our boats, in no comfortable position; and as our place was not tenable, we re-embarked at six in the morning ( August 30), with a southerly wind. We soon met with the ice pack, and ran along it up Barrow's strait; but to no ( MW\ f 1 ^ 11 -,. ..' '*!> 478 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■f puipose, as there was no exit any where. We therefore stood in to the shore, and found a good position for pitching the tents and hauling up the boats ; while it was near a mountain that promised us a view of the distant ice; the pack being so high above the boats' gunwales that we could not see over it. ( August 31 ) It snowed all the morning, and we removed the boats to the ground ice for the sake of launching them more easily. We found here many remains of Esquimaux huts, and some fox- traps ; and as we saw many seals, the reason for the natives fixing in this place was apparent. The hill itself was a peninsula, joined to the main by a long bank, or rather a neck of land, about two miles broad, and on each side was a bay; while, as in neither of these the ice had yet broken up, we had a sufficient proof of the se- verity of the season. All the sea to the north was hence seen to be completely full of solid ice, though it drifted occasionally, near Ihc land, under the influence of the tides. August had been a month of peculiar anxiety ; and a succession of hopes and disappointments severely tried the patience of all. On quilting Fury beach, appearances were so favourable, that every advance to bay, or point, or cape, along the coast, flattered us with the prospect of soon reaching the northern edge of the ice, and then of surmounting the greatest difficulty in the way, by making a passage across Prince Regent's inlet. By the time, however, that we had reached 73° of latitude, we were unfortunately detained so long by the state of the ice, that it became doubtful if we should succeed during the present season. Here was one of the main trials of our patience ; and a look-out house, built in the cliffs by the men, became the chief thing which afforded them any amusement, while that consisted in watching for the changes in the ice, which, after all, did not arrive. This detention reconciled those who had first opposed this proceeding, as unnecessary, to our past labour in bringing on provisions to this place ; since v^e were thus enabled to keep up a better allowance to the people. That consisted of half a pound of meat, with a pound of bread and a pint of cocoa, divided into breakfast and supper, which were regulated, in point of time, just as our travel- ling permitted. All game was considered as an extra and lux- urious allowance ; but what we obtained was very little, since it amounted but to three foxes and as many hares, with a couple TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 477 of ducks. All the waterfowl had disappeared about the end of the month. The boats sailed nearly alike; but being made of mahogany, proved so heavy, that it gave us great trouble to haul them up on the beach; so that the whole party was required to draw up one, while even this often required the assistance of tackle. This work also proved an occasional source of great danger, as well as incon- venience, since the ice sometimes drifted down on the shore so rapidly, that these boats ran the imminent risk, on those occa- sions, of being crushed before we could get them into a place of safety. The coast which we had thus passed consisted entirely of lime- stone, often presenting precipices of five hundred feet in height for a space of five or six miles. Every valley bore marks of a stream or of its bed : but these seemed never to convey water, except (luring the melting of the snow. Scarcely any vegetation waste be seen. Of the temperature I may finally say, that the extremes were 40« plus and 20° plus, and that the mean was 31° plus, which, relatively to our former Augusts in this country, gives the following comparison : 1830 Highest, lowest, and mean temperature -t- 158 + 33 + 40.87 1831 Ditto , ... -I- 54 -I- 24 + 36..11 1832Ditto +40-h20 + 31.23 CHAPTER LII. ATTEMPT TO PROCEED IN THE BOATS— OBSTRUGTIOKS BY THE ICE —PROPOSAL TO RETURN TO FURY BEACH— RENEW OUR ATTEMPT —PUT ASHORE NEAR BATTY BAY— LAND THE STORES— SUMMARY OF AUGUST — ABANDONMENT OF THE MINERAL SPECIMENS. {Sept 1. 1832) We were kept prisoners by a gale of wind, and all our variety was the sight of four black whales and many white .i.; 478 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY w ones. There was no diange on Snnday (Sept. 2). On Monday (Sept. 3) I ascended the mountain, which is in reality the north-east point of America, whence I obtained a sight of Cape Warrender and Hope's monument on one side, and, on the other, of Cape York, with three headlands beyond it, including the whole of that part of the sound which is called Barrow's strait. This was an unbroken field of ice : there was not even a pool of water to be seen ; every thing was precisely such as it had been on the thirty-first of August in 1818. It was a bad prospect ; since it seemed to prophesy that we should yet be compelled to return to Fury beach. (Sept. 4 to 8) There was no material change on the fourth, except that it became gradually colder, the thermometer fall- ing to IS" on the sixth. There was occasional snow, with cold winds. The same weather continued till the end of the week, when the maximum heat was 16**, and the lowest 12°. No change took place in the fixed ice. (Sept. 9 /o IK) The three first of these days were, like the pre- ceding, without material change, and without events. A view from the hill on Thursday showed the whole of Lancaster sound, Barrow's strait, and Prince Regent's inlet, covered with solid ice, excepting a very narrow line close to the isthmus near Leopold's islands. The remainder of this week was equally dull and uniform. (Sept. 16) The thermometer was subsiding gradually, nevei' rising tolhe freezing point in the day, and going down to 21" at night. It was so cold in the tents, that we were obliged to build snow walls round them : and the drift, together with the snow, rendered the weather sufficiently intolerable. Some ice moved off the land, under a north-westerly wind, on the seventeenth but it closed again on the following day. (Sept. 18) ; Two foxes were killed, with some ptarmigans; and we thus had game enough for the different messes. In the beginning of our sojourn in this country, we had thought the fox bad eating-, but it was now preferred to any other meat. (Sept. 19) It was still colder, the thermometer falling to 18", and not rising above 215''; but as the ice appeared to be loosening on the twentieth, we embarked our things, leaving an account of our pro- ceedings in a tin case beneath a cairn. Putting off at noon, we reached the pack edge of the ice at the junction of Barrow's strait and Prince Regent's inlet, after forcing our way through much of 'ppt. 3) uint of Hope's h three sound of ice : ig was 1 1818. should fourth, er fall- ilh cold c, when ige took the pre- fiw from Harrow's epting a s. The never it night. »w walls !red the [1, under igain on 1th some lifferent we had ly other 1 8", and on the |ur pro- )on, we fs strait luch of TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 479 that which had been newly formed. It was found to be a conti- nuous solid mass, giving no hopes of breaking up during the present season, advanced as that now was. The land was equally blocked up by heavy ice ; so that we were obliged to return whence we had come; though not effecting this without much difficulty, and not landing a minute too soon, as the ice immediately came down on the shore with great force. If any one still hoped to get through this great obstacle, I was willing to wait here for a farther trial, though it seemed utterly useless. {Sept. 21 to 24) We accordingly remained three days, in mode- rate weather, the thermometer reaching 9". On the twenty-fourth, every one agreed that all hope was at an end, and that it only re- mained for us to return to Fury beach. On the next day {Sept. 2!5) the wind was more favourable, and the in-shorc ice in motion ; a little water being also seen off Cape Seppings. We therefore pre- pared to embark; and I buried, in the same place, a fresh account of our proceedings and intentions, v/ith a sketch of our discoveries. At noon, we sailed with a fresh breeze for our return " home; " and, arriving at the Cape, found a clear, but very narrow passage, between the main ice and that on shore, just allowing the boats to pass singly : after which, standing on through water which sheathed them two inches thick with ice, we arrived at our former position, near Elwin bay, by six o'clock. We could not, however, approach the shore, and were at last obliged to sleep in the boats, in a creek not far from it, during a very raw, disagreeable night of snow. Attempting to cross Elwin bay the next morning {Sept. 26) , we were much beset and stopped by the floes, and were finally obliged, at midday, to haul into a cove in the ice, when we pitched our tent on it. By six on the following morning {Sept. 27), the thermo- meter had fallen to zero, though it rose to 20*' in the day ; and we remained prisoners : gaining somewhat towards a dinner, in a fox and two guUs. The ice became more loose on the next day [Sept. 28), and we departed, making a very slow progress through heavy bay ice ; when a gale coming on at ten in the morning, in- creased so fast that we could carry no sail by mid day, and were obliged to put ashore on the land ice. We were, unfortunately, under the most terrific precipice that we had yet seen, two miles from the north cape of Batty bay : having but six feet of beach beneath cliffs which rose five hundred \l • I" m^. ^^tk' m'.\ * -I W:.'W\ Wi - 480 SECOND VOTfAGE OF DISCOVERY ■s V'% fcl feet above us. A speedy removal was therefore absolutely neces- sary ; but an easterly wind bringing the bay ice on us, we were detained the next day {Sept. 29) : our only consolation, in the mean time, being the shootin[^of three foxes, with some ducks and gulls. We were now reduced to half allowance of provisions, having long been on two-thirds. (Sept. 30) A motion in the ice allowed us to pass the north cape of this bay ; but we soon found that the southern one was com- pletely blocked by heavy and solid masses; while, after much labour, we could do no more than reach a floe extending a mile from the shore on the southern side of this indentation. The beach beinfj here found promising, the boats were hauled up on the ice, and we proceeded to land the stores. Anxious as the preceding months had been, owing to the im- pending prospect of our deliverance from that miserable country in which we had been so long imprisoned, and to the difficulties which had beset our attempts to extricate ourselves, the present one had passed in even greater anxiety, and had been a period of more frequent and more provoking disappointment. Yet we found some occupation for our minds^ serving at least to divert our at- tention from the painful part of our prospects and th£ vexatious difficulties that were ever recurring, in the discussions among us, which, however frequent they had recently been, had now, very naturally, become more persistent and nuore energetic. These also were occasionally sources of amusement, deficient as we were in all others ; sinee we could extract this, even from the acrimony which these disputes often engendered ; while we were all too intent on (me great object to disagree long about the colla- teral circumstances under which it was to be attained. Nor was it a small advantage that these debates served to keep up our spirits : the sanguine, in the heat of their arguments, magmfyiug our prospects of access, as happens in all dilutes;, and the timid and desponding thus gaining some cours^e, and adjnitlisg some brighter gleams of hope, from the very speculations and anticipa- tions which they were opposing. Each of our three tents thus formed a kind of separate deli- berative party, or a little society ; in two of which, the opinions of the leader was that of bis men also, while the collision of views lay thus between these different bodies. Among them, Commander TO THE ARCTIC, REGIONS. 481 Ross, who had always born the most sanguine, was still the leader of the ho|>efiil, at least nearly np to this time, whatever donhls mijjht have arisen in his mind during; the after days of this attempt. The contrary opinion prevailed in the party of Mr. Tliom, whose estimable cpialilies in all other points were not accompanied by that spirit of confidence which belongs in general to a period of life which my excellent friend had passed. iMy own tent alone was one of divided opinions; and it alForded, therefore, the greater op- portunities for these discussions; while 1 j»resume I need not now say what was the extent of my own confidence, after the arrange- ments and exertions which I have been describing. But it was my wish ( I believed it my best policy ) to conceal my opinions, and to interfere with none of their debates; and thus, not only to see what their several tempers were on this subject, but. as might happen, to profit by that knowledge. These views and feelings, however, underwent some changes during the time that wc were making this often doubtful and always difficult progress. Within the last days of the month, (Com- mander Ross seemed to have more than hesitated respecting our escape; and, on the twentieth, I must needs say, with whatever regret, I began myself to question whether we should succeed in passing the barrier of ice this season; in which case, there could be no resource for us but another winter, another year, 1 should, say, on Fury beach ; if, indeed, it should be the fortune of any one to survive after another such year as the three last. If it was the fruitless attempt to cross the strait on the twentieth which had brought my mind to this state of feeling, the effect was not to be indulged ; nor did my opinions tend in any degree to alter my resolution as to our conduct, or rather as to my own, respect- ing the men under my charge. While there was the remotest chance for us, it was my duty to persevere, as far and as long at least as I should be justified by the state of our provisions : since, if we should be obliged to leave our boats at the farthest point where we could succeed in placing them, we should be obliged to travel back, eighty miles, over a road so rugged that it would necessarily occupy a very long time, and, with that, induce a great consumption of our stores; which we could not afford to have increased beyond what we had actually taken, from the great labour of transport and our very limited means of carriage. 23. A^ •ii * A t :\ i I ,"ii MH I 482 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVKRY Having, as I already noticed, left the chest of minerals near a no- table cairn, as beinjj too heavy for us to carry farther, I must here point out its latitude as 73° !>!'; that haviuf; been deduced from two meridian latitudes of the sun. The mountain, therefore, which f formerly mentioned as beiiip, situated at this place, lies between tlir latitudes of T.V 153' and 74° north ; and as its longitude is 90° west. it occupies the place at w hich 1 had marked Ooker's mountain in 1818. I can therefore have no referred, it is equally my duty to point out that the discovery of the north-east cape of the American continent thus belongs to myself, and to the original voyage which I made to these northern seas. Finally, in thus re- storing the original designation of this spot, I must equally assert my right to establish every thing else connected with it, as it stands iii my <>vvn charts, and therefore to replace the names which 1 then conferred on several objects in its vicinity. In thus speaking on this subject, I must not be accused of ego- tism, or of an ambition for insignificant fame. It is the cause of every navigator, of every discoverer, at least, which I am pleading. It is but a small reward which ever falls to their share, in recom- pense for all their hardships and hazards ; and if they are thus to be robbed of the only name and fame they can ever hope to obtain, the effect will be to check their ardour, in addition to the injustice thus committed. The injury inflicted on Columbus by the ignorance, neglect, and torpidity, of the world, is an example to be shunned, not followed : and though the greatest of modern discoveries can- not bear the most remote parallel to his, it must not be forgotten that the fame of every man, however small, is equally his right, and that it is, to himself, not less precious than the repute of greater TO THE ARCTIC nF.GIOiHS. 4S3 dectis is to liim who liolds a loftier poailion in llie world's eyr. The circumstimces under which wo were now plared, served also lo prove another point bearing essentially on my voyage of 1818, and on the discussions lo which it afterwards gave rise. The fact, indeed, was but too surely proved for our safety or hopes : it would have been far better for us at present, had that been false which I had asserted to have been then true ; had Barrow's strait been incapable of freezing, had it never been, and was never lo be, frozen over; as had been most confidently asserted of late. It was now frozen, or at least had hitherto been so. during the preceding winter and the present summer, even up lo this time. Into a solid sea. from Admiralty inlet to Croker's inlet; and this is precisely what I found it to be in 1818. 1 have equally little doubt, from the state of things w ith us during all the years of our present detention, that this had been its condition during the whole period ; while there are even proofs of this, in the endeavours of the whalers to penetrate into Lancaster strait, and in the failures which they ex- perienced. If the assertion which 1 have thus controverted is therefore untrue, so are there collateral facts to prove that the condition of this strait in 1818 must have been what I then represented it to be. It had been a calm seasoi', being the most unfavourable weather for navi- gating these seas, since it is only through the force of the winds that the ice can be opened and dispersed, as navigators are indebted to the northerly gales of summer for whatever progress they can make. In thai summer there was but one gale while w^' were on this part of the coast, lasting two days ; and as this was from the south, not the north, its effect was to bring up the ice instead of dispersing it, so as lo ensure the result in question, if not to have produced it. Thence it was, that when we arrived off Lancaster sound on the thirty-first of August, the pack of ice was still to the northward of it; while that on the south side was, beyond all doubt., in the same state that we now found it, forming a solid unbroken mass, stretch- ing from side to side of the strait, which neither ship nor boat could penetrate. During the last days of our detention in this place, when, in ad- dition lo what we believed the impossibility of succeeding in our attempt to leave this country, it had further become doubtful whe- ther the slate of the ice would allow us to return to Furv beach, or 'T' h, ■ > 'I ' "*i^^ '■•Hi f. "1. 1 484 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY l!f' even to siirmonnt a small part of the way to this only hope that rr- maiiiod for lis, our sitii.ition had hcroiiK' truly serious, not simply eritical. We had fixed on the tweiity-fiflh of Seplendter for our de- parture, should the sled|;es he then ready, and, from that date we had hut ten day's provisions left, at half allowance, while we had not fuel enouf^h reiiiainini; to melt the snow whieh would Ite requi- red for our eonsiimption of water. Thus did our arrival at Hatty hay turn out to Ix; a most providential eireiimslance, as there were, from this |)oint, hut thirty-two miles of direct distance remaininf; ; a line which all the intricacies and ohstriictions of the route could not well increase to more than forty. At this lime it was, that we heijaii to experience the (greatest sufFer- iuRS we had yet endur(!d from l\w C(dd. We had heen iinahle to es du- ring the latter days of this month tended to diminish that energy of the system hy which, assuredly, the animal heal is maintained. The efFet of the exciting, and, reversely, of the depressing passions, on the heat-generating power, cannot fail to he known to every one's experience, not to medical men alone, although they may not express their knowledge in the same terms, and perhaps may not even have noticed the facts till pointed out; and while it ought to he made a primary consi«leration with every officer having charge of men in these frozen climates, to maintain the spirits and hopes of his men, so may 1 add it to those rules and precautions which I formerly laid down on this suhject. lie all this as it may, we were really very cold, and very miserahle ; and from what I have formerly said of my own constitution, I have reason to believe, that what- ever my own sufferings might have been, every one of the party was much more miserably cold than myself. The prospect before us, in the case of being obliged to return, was even worse; unless in- deed the excess of our labours in the expected journey, with the conviction that there was an object, and a home, such as that was, in view, should enable us to accomplish this undertaking. During the latter part of this month our success in procuring foxes and ptarmigans bad been considerable ; and while our whole TO THF. XRCIIC RK(i[0!NS. 48a party was not so lari;e as Jo prcvrnl this supply from \mnf, of r<'al use, so did it form a valiiaMc addilioii, both in quantity and quality, to our much too scanty stork of provisions, i'hrrc was l^rcal reason to dread the clfcrt of a narrowed diet on the men : not merely on their health or streni;tli. hut on their very lives. Ail of us hud already suffered from this at various limes ; hut the chances of irreuK (liahle evil were inc^reasinu every tiay. A review of the weather showed this to have l)een the coldest Septemher which w(r had recorded : a fact which I altrihuted t(» the permaneuc<' and proximity of th(> (i;reat hodies of ic<; and snow whit'li surrounded us, and especially to the total want of that open sea which has always such an inlluence on the temperature. This month had heen noted for the Irautpiiliily of the winds, and thence was there no cause adequate to the disruption of the ice. The whole land also, ever since the middle of Auijusl, had heen entirely covered with snow, so that, hut for the appearance of the sun, every thin{; bore the aspect of deep winter. llaviuij formerly noticed the necessity which compelled us to leave at North-east Cape the largest collection of minerals which we had made, I may now add, (hat 1 afterwards pointed out the spot to (laptain Hum|»hreys, of the Isabella, with the hope that he might have reached that place in the succeeding summer, and thus put me once more into possession of the materials whence I might have drawn up an account of the geological structure of this coun- try. While this sheet was preparing for the press, that collection arrived ; but it is a subject that I am compelled to refer to the Appendix, among the other matters appertaining to science and natural history. 1h M mflfS ' hfm 480 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER Llir. (rNTINUATlOJI OF OUR TRAVELLING SOUTHWARD IW OCTOBER — RETURN TO FURY BEACH— ESTABLISH OURSELVES AT SOMERSET HOUSE FOR THE WINTER— SUMMARY OF THIS MONTH -JOURNAL AND SUMMARY OF NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. ( Oci. 1, 1834) There was a very heavy fall of snow on this day. and the thermometer rose from zero to 10". A strong north-west breeze made no impression on the ice. which now covered the whole sea, giving it the same appearance as in the depth of winter. It was the work of the whole day to dig a way Ihrongh it for the boats, and to haul them up on the beach above high water-mark. {Oct. 2, 4) The carpenter began to make sledges out of the empty bread casks; and his chips became very welcome fuel, serving to cook a couple of foxes in aid of our short commons, which, du- ring the whole of this expedition, had been distributed into two meals, breakfast and supper. That work was not finished till the fourth, amid very heavy snow ; when they were loaded with our tents and whatever else might be wanted at Fury beach. There could be no farther hope of getting back there in the boats : and Ihence I had originally determined to leave them here for the next year's use ; and to proceed with sledges in the best manner thai we could. We found this attempt almost insuperably difficult ; and the whole progress that we could make was but four miles. The way was rendered nearly impassable by the deep and loose snow which had been falling : and, to increase our troubles, the htme man. Taylor, could neither walk with his crutches, nor ride on the sled- ges, which were perpetually upsetting upon the rough ice. In some manner or other, however, we gained a bad resting place at seven; when it was already dark, with the thermometer at zero. {Oct. '6 ) We passed a miserably cold night, but fortunately es- caped frost-bites. In the morning, one of our three sledges being TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 487 broken, we were compelled to leave here some .stores ; taking no- thing but the provisions, tents, and beds, on the other two, and thus having stronger parties to draw them than on the preceding day. we thus gained seven miles on this day's journey, in spite of a strong cold wind and constant snow, and were enabled to carry the mate Taylor, by returning for him willi an empty sledge. Burdened and obstructed as we already were, this was a great additional grievance : but they who were inclined to murmur, had at least the satisfaction of reflecting that their case was belter than his. ( Oct. G) It was a difficulty of another kind which we had to en- counter on the next day ; as the heavy ice was pressed up to the precipices along the shore, and we were often obliged to quit a tolerable track, to get round them in the best manner that we couhl. But the lijbour kept us warm ; and, by noon, arriving at the cascade, within eighteen miles of Fury beach, the men acquired fresh courage ; when, having made eleven miles, we pitched within eight of our winter home, killing several foxes in the way. {Oct. 7) Sunday morning found us a few hours more of similar work ; and this being over, we reached our house, Somerset house, at three o'clock; our labours at an end, and ourselves once more at home. But we had left the tents at the last stage, to accommodate the men that remained behind, who were to return as soon as pos- sible, for the clothing and other matters which could not be brought forw ard at this lime. We found our house occupied by a fox, which soon made its es- cape. Every thing was as we left it : and as we were not less hungry than cold, having linished our last morsel at breakfast, the men were treated with a good meal, which, however, the imprudent did not partake of williout suffering. Two of the men were found to have frost-bites, and 1 had been deeply cut in ihe leg. {Oct. 8, 9) The following days furnished employment for the men, in repairing (he sledges and their shoes, for another journey. On the tenth of Octoi)er. a heavy gale rendered all out of door work impracticable, and even our house was in great danger. But it had such an effect on the ice outside, as to set it in motion to such a de- gree, that every atom of bay ice near us was demolished by the floes, and a large space of water opened to the north-east. This storm continued on the eleventh; and as our house was not yet prepared for a winter so severe and premalure, we suffered ., ijpH ' "•■t\^ •x. * ;f ♦• I ilJ* 488 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY :1* considerably from the cold, being unable to raise our sleeping places beyond 18". The tide rose very high : and many large pieces of ice which we had left here when we went away, were floated off. On the following morning (Oc^. 12), the storm was at its high- est; the thermometer fell to 8°, and the tide carried off the remain- der of the land ice to the southward, with great velocity, while much water was seen to the northward. That was now useless : a month before it might have aided us; but, at this time, it was what a single hour might obliterate tdl the next autumn. {Oct. 13) There was no cessation to this most uncommon storm : after promising to lull about noon, it blew harder than ever ; and the canvas roof being too weak to bear it, the snow gained admission to our beds, and every thing was frozen. We had great difficulty in keeping ourselves warm by crowding round the stove ; but had the good fortune to take three foxes in the trap : a matter now beginning to be a subject of great congratulation. We had the same luck on the next day {Oct. 14), but there was no difference in the weather on this and the following one {Oct. lo), nor, on the sixteenth of October, till noon, when it moderated, and the men were able to work outside in covering the roof with some of the Fury's running rigging. On the next day {Oct. 17), it was good enough to permit the men to set off with the sledges to the place, twenty-five miles off, where some of our stores had been deposited. {Oct. 18 to 20) The thermometer sank to minus 2°, but there was nothing else to mark these three days. On the twenty-first, Com- mander Ross's party returned, bringing every thing except the tents, which had been left at the last stage. Among the rest was our other stove, which was immediately prepared for use. {Oct. 22) The ice that had opened, now closed the bay, as was foreseen, and the thermometer fell to minus 10". The additional stove, however, now kept our house even warmer than we wished, since we could raise it to 51°. A snow wall, four feet thick, was built round it ; and farther spars and ropes were applied to sup- port the roof, for the purpose of covering it with snow. A con- tinuance of storms on the three following days {Oct. 2.3 to 2u) rendered all work impracticable. On the last days of this week {Oct. 26, 27) it was milder, and we were able to continue our operations. •i»-1 ■■Hci mtntm TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 489 (Oct. 28) Divine service was renewed on this day, after a longer cessation than was agreeable to our feelings, and after a much longer one than was right : but for this there was no help ; it were well if those who neglect this duty at home could find excuses as avaiUng. After this, the men had their last dinner on full allow- ance, as it now became necessary to retrench. We found a roasted fox to be a very good dish. Thus at least we then thought : I ima- gine that hungry men do not much attend to flavour, or, as the moralists have told us, that hunger flavours all meats. I have had reason to doubt, since my return to the beef and mutton of England, and to the dinners of" Grocers' Hall," whether I might not have overrated the flavour of fox; and I suspect too, that even Barney Laughy, though c'dcated on porridge and potatoes, has made the same discovery. {Oct. 29 to^l) It blew hard on the twenty-ninth, and increased to a heavy gale on the three following days, so that the month of October ended as severely as was well possible. We however now found the advantage of the snow wall, and had no reason to complain within doors, though the thermometer went down to minus 18°. Much clear water was opened in the offing once more, duri'a; • •i' last storm. The monU , ( ;lober in this year surpassed all others for cold and stormy Vttaiher; there being only six days moderate. Our journey from Batty bay, which was accomplished in four days, was exceedingly laborious, and from the nature of the weather, very trying to all the men ; but had we been obliged to walk all the way from our farthest position, the journey would have been fatal to some, if not to all of us, since we should have been overtaken by the storm of the ninth. We therefore felt very thankful that we had been so mercifully permitted to reach even this cold and dreary spot in safety. Having constructed our house previously was also a very pro- vidential circumstance ; for, defective as it was, it could not have been nearly so well done at this season ; and indeed before it could have been done at all, we must have suffered severely ; but what we had most reason to be thankful for is the store of provisions still left, now sufficient to last and maintain us for another season; and when we reflect on the various circumstances which have as it were exerted themselves to prolong our lives, we cannot but off'er up 23.. •IH, A ni. <\ '»", 11.! V t 1 a i'jO StCO.ND VOYAGE OF DISCOVBRY our hunibie acknowledgments to the Great Disposer of eveiUs. First, I may enumerate the loss of the Fury, by which accident the stores and provisions were left : next, the mutiny of the John's crew, for if that ship had come with us, we intended to have cleared Fury beach : thirdly, the engine boilers, without which, we might have got so far that we could not have returned : fourthly, the Fury's boats, after having been carried off in the s.lorms of the win- ter; having been cast on shore near the same place, without any material damage : and lastly, the construction of a habitation in summer, to which we were now mercifully permitted to re- turn. Mr. Thom now inspected and took an account of the remains ol provisions; namely, of the flour, sugar, soups, peas, vegetables, pickles, and lemon-juice, which were in abundance; though we regretted to find, that of the present preserved meats, there was not more than would suffice for our voyage in the boats during the next season, together with half a pound additional on Sundays, and the same on Thursdays. With respect to the present rations, the men were allowed, alter- nately, pea-soup, with one made of carrots and turnips, out of the stores of the Fury. Instead of bread, which we could not now furnish to a sufficient extent, they were provided with dumplings of flour and water, and they had no reason to be dissatisfied with this compulsory substitute. They were, indeed, sufficiently fed, since it was observed that they had become in much better condi- tion since our return to this place. Our present allowance in meal, indeed, was a pound in the day : while it was settled that the short rations should begin on the first oi: November. The storms of this month, by breaking up the ice in Prince Regent's inlet, and driving it down Baffin's bay, must have been of great service; but the low temperature was against us. Taylor, Laughy, and J. Wood, were on the sick list. Wc began to keep regular watch, and register the thermometer every two hours. {Nov. 1 to^) Ustill blew a gale from the northward, which did not intermit till the Saturday night; and though the sky was clear, the anoiw-drift was, $o ihkk that we could see nothing, and no one could venture out. A good deal of open water was seen after this storm, and the thermometer fell to 18° minus. Oo Sunday {IVov. 4) call TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 49 i it was comparalivcly moderate, and, at night, became at length calm. {Nov. 3, 6) The snow wall was finished; and the ice, under a west wind, closed in on the shore. By throwing water on the walls, and pointing the joints with wet snow, it became quite impervious to cohl. {IVov. 7 to 10) On the seventh, the thermometer sank to ^o° minus; and a strong breeze sprang up, ending in a gale with drift snow at night, which continuing on the next day, lasted all the following; the ice driving to the southward, and opening much clear water to the north. [IVov. 11, 12) Sunday was calm and cold. On Monday it blew hard, with drift snow; still moving the ice and opening more water. Nor did it change on the next day [Nov. 15), while the thermometer fell to 37" minus. The sun was in the horizon on the fourteenth, and was seen for the last time on the fifteenth. There was no change in the weather, except an unexpected rise of the thermo- meter to minus 10». (IVot\ 16) The gale became worse than ever, and there was now clear water as far as we could see to the north-eastward, which, on the next day {IVov. 17), was entirely frozen over and covered with snow. On these days of confinement there had been abundant work within, in fitting up the bed places, and in constructing and sup- plying a ventilator. The good effect of this contrivance was imme- diately felt, in its carrying off the vapour : On Sunday {Nov. 18). the weather had moderated, but it was hazy on Monday ( Nov. 19) , becoming calm on the next day {Nov. 20). Thus it continued till a wind rose from the eastward {Nov. 21 ), but not so as to render ihe work of the men, out of doors, in constructing a snow pas sage, impracticable. {Nov. 22) We saw a second wolf on this day which was fired at, but not killed, since it was afterwards seen, wounded, but still able to escape. {Nov. 23, 24) The men were imprisoned till Saturday night, and the thermometer was then at IS" minus. ( Nov. 21} to 30 ) Sunday did not admit of walking after divine service. During all the remainder of this month, the ice continued in motion, under a west wind, and moderate weather. The men finished their work, and the thermometer at the end of November was minus 32°. The first part of the abstract of this month, which 1 shall give. ■•itw« I 1 ■in 492 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY H:'* relates to the temperature. The extremes were 8" and 37" minus, and the mean is 20 1/2" minus, being 115 1/2" less than that atl'ort Bowen in the corresponding month of 1824. This month had been still more remarkable than the preceding, for the constant succession of storms by which it had been dis- tinguished, and for being the only November on record in which the thermometer never rose above zero. The maximum was 4" minus, and the mean temperature not less than 191/2" below that of the November in the last year ; while it was 8" lower than that of the year before, and 11> 1/2" lower than in the November of 1821, at Port Bowen. It was, however, higher than at Melville island, in 1819 ; though it must be remarked that this is in 2 1/2" of latitude farther north. The open water had been seen to a great extent during the gales of this month. It was with much difficulty that \ve succeeded in tinishing our habitation. During this very severe month, the men, not having clolhinj to withstand the cold, could seldom work in the open air; but we at length succeeded in making our house tolerably comfortable, so that the temperature inside was about 43", excepting near iho enclosing walls, where it was, of course, below the freezing point ; as were our cabins. The men had each a bed place with a canvas bottom, and a thrummed mat for a bed ; while in addition to a blanket each, we were about to make mats as further coverings. Our system of feeding could not be changed, for want of means, whatever we might have wished ; but the men did not seem to suffer, and there was no one on the sick list but Taylor, the lame mate, and Thomas, the carpenter; our prospects had not, indeed, been brightened by the aspect of the weather in this month; but we were all in endurable spirits, and the thankful were contented with the advantages which we enjoyed. {Dec. 1 to 7) There is little to mark the beginning of December, except that Sunday, the second, was a very stormy day, and that the mercury froze on the fourth ; being four days later than in the last year at the same date. Hence, on to Saturday night {Dec. 8), there was a succession of storms with drift and new snow ; the wind often shifting, and the ice still moving up and down the strait, so as to expose pieces of open water. From 40" minus, the thermometer gradually rose till it settled at 29". TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 493 mber, il that in the :. 8), wind so as Imcler (Dec. 9. to II)) It was not better on Snnday, bnt became a perfect storm after this ; holdings on with little change till the twelfth, when it fell calm; yet only to retnrn: having produced more open water than we had yet seen, which was nevertheless covered with floating pieces of ice, and soon became sheeted with a new formation of the same now to be expected substance. The thirteenth was calm and clear, and the weather was moderate; while, after a gale on the fourteenth, the week ended with calm weather, and with the tem- perature 24". {Bee. 16/0 22) The men were able to walk on Sunday, after service; and the weather, havinj; become clear, continued mode- rate, and unmarked all the rest of the week ; when the thermome- ter fell to 43", being the greatest degree of cold we had yet expe- rienced. Three or four foxes had been taken in the trap at different times. ( Dec. 23 lo 2'.) ) It blew fresh on the Sunday and Monday, so as to prevent the men from going out; but a fox having been taken, served for our Christmas dinner, while the men received full allow- ance of meat for that day, though for them as for us, there was nothing to drink but snow water. {Dec. 26/o31) I\o change of weather worthy of note took place onwards till the end oF the month, nor did any thing occur among ourselves to make one day differ from another, or diminish the weariness of that nniformity to which we were now tied. The month and the year ended suffi- ciently cold, since it was again at the freezing point of mercury. In the course of this month it blew hard during most days, and always from the north and north-west ; in consequence of which the ice was kept in violent motion. Open water was seen through all the month; and, on the last day of the year, it was visible from the beach as far as the eye could trace to the north-north-east. The mean temperature of the month had been 1" below any on record ; and the cold was very severely felt by us in our frozen ha- bitation ; but by increasing the mass of snow and ice on the outside, and by flooring the house, we made it more comfortable. Half a dozen foxes were taken, and afforded us an excellent meal on Sun- days and on Christmas-day; which was the first that we had spent without tasting spirits or wine : these luxuries having been now utterly exhausted, as they had long been set apart for those periods of regale, which a seaman does not easily resign, and ought not to ■»■■ 404 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY he allowed to forjjet. Thomas, the carpenter, was now the only person on (he sick list, and it was a matter of considerable ref>ret to me, not less on his account than for the interests of all of ns, and the credit of our medical treatment, that the scurvy under which he now at length suffered, did not yield to our great specific, lime-juiee, which really seemed as if it had lost its antiscorbutic virtues, though the fault probably lay in the increase of the causes of this disease. The aurora borealis had been seen but seldom, and was incon- spicuous, while its position was generally opposed to that of the sun. But to end with the summary of this month, the weather, variable and severe as it had been, became calm and clear, though cold, and thus did we terminate the month of December, and the year 1832. CHAPTER LIV. ■; .; m THE JOURNALS OF JAISUARY, FEBRUARY, AND MARCH, WITH THEIR RESPECTIVE SUMMARIES— DEATH AND FUNERAL OF THE CAR- PENTER. ( Jan. 1 to 15, 1833 ) Our new-year's feast was like that of Christ- mas-day. The remainder of the week was fine, and the people were able to take exercise every day. The temperature ranged between 33" and 38". ( Jan. 6 ^o 12) A breeze came on upon Sunday, with snow-drift ; and the sea which had been covered with new ice, broke up. 11 moderated next day ; but, on Tuesday, blowing hard with the ther- mometer at 43", it was intolerably cold. The temperature rose a little the following day, but went down to 44" on the tenth. Friday and Saturday were both stormy, with the ice in violent motion ; and the result of this gale was to raise the temperature to 26". ^■■■- Ji^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 49A (Jan. 13 to 19) This Sunday was marked by a perfect slorin ; yet it moderated on the next day, and still more so on the following ones, so that we coiihl again go out during all the remainder of the week; the thermometer, which had not been very low in compari- son, being then at 31^. {Jan, ^0 to 26) Sunday ended with a gale and drift snow, which continued the following day, and left the ice in motion on Tuesday. The weather was uncertain all the rest of the week, with strong breezes and calms. On Saturday the sun should have been visible for the first time ; but the snow-drift deprived us of the sight : and this week produced nothing else to note. {Ja?i. 27 ^0 31 ) It blew so hard on the first days of the week, that we could not \]0 out. The twenty-ninth was a very fine day; and the upper limb of the sun appeared at a quarter after eleven ; showing threequarters of the disk above the horizon at noon, and setting at half after one. It was the first time that we had seen it during seventy-four days. On the thirtieth, the thermometer rose to 11", and the month was ended with it at 4»; being a great change within a very short space. This mouth began, and continued for ten days, with such severity that it promised to be the coldest on record. It improved, however, about the middle, so that the mean temperature was 30° minus, while the extremes were minus 4" and minus 44". Nevertheless our habitation was very cold and miserable; while, in attempting to warm ourselves on one side, we were frozen on the opposite, and were otherwise more than enough wearied, from the want of books or other occupation, and the impossibility of taking exercise out of doors. The crew, with the exceptions formerly noticed, were not ailing : but, of the carpenter's recovery, there was no hope. { Feb. 1 to Q) The weather confined us for the first two days of February; but Sunday was fine, as was the next day ; a violent gale coming on tipon the fifth, which, after another peaceful day, recurred on the seventh, freezing the mercury, and continuing to blow with great fury till the end of the week, the thermometer then falling to 44°. (Fed. to to 16) The carpenter being now in a hopeless state, ar appropriate sermon was read on the present Sunday. On Saturday morniog: he died. This was the coldest week which wc had seen, 496 SECOND VOY/VGE OF DISCOVERY the Iheniionieler having ranged l)elwe('n 44"' and 'SH" : the wealher had also been variahle, hut not marked in this respect, after >\hat we had so often experienced. {Feb. 17 to i23 ) Durintj the whole of the subsequent week the weather was moderate but eohl ; and on the twenty-second, the carpenter, Chimham Thomas, was interred with the usual solem- nity. It was not easy, nevertheless, to read the service out of doors, the thermomettr being at ili", while the ground was so hard that we had great dirticuUy in making a grave. This poor man had been three months ill, and his case had long been esteemed hope- less ; as he was suffering from scurvy, in addition to a worn out constitution. It was the first of our losses, however, which could, in any fairness, be attributed to the climate and our peculiar situ- ation : the first man who died could scarcely have lived longer at home ; nor was the death of the other, one lliat could have been delayed long, any where. ( Fed. 24 to 28) The temperature rose suddenly from minus jG" to 6", and then reached zero, falling again to 23", till the end ol the month. The first change gave us some hopes, but these did not last. In the weather, which was variable but moderate, there was nothing to remark. There is nothing surprising, as there is no novelty, in the re- trospect of February. It could not have been much better, and it was satisfactory that it had not been worse, bad as it was. VVh.it the weather had proved, I need not repeat : but as the temperature is not discoverable from the narrative, it is necessary to say that the mean was 32" 87 minus; as that in the preceding Februaries were, respectively, for the years; minus 29" 9, 32", and 33" 69. The extremes were plus 6*, and minus 1515". The chief event was that of the death of the carpenter, Thomas ; which, apart from any regret for a worthy and useful man, the more painful when we looked round on all, saw the decided illness of some, and could not easily avoid anticipating what our own fate might be, was a very serious loss; since his assistance could scarcely fail lobe required hereafter, in the reparation of the boats, and in such other matters as belonged to his profession. Respect- ing himself, I need only note the excellent character he had acqui- red, in »benavy before he joined us : but, to compensate any pain that might have i>een felt under the impression that this expedition TO THE ARCTIC REGIOiSS. 407 le rt - and it What M-alure nat llu' were. The onias ; n, till! illness n fat*' I could (boats, jspect- icqui- pain klition had i>een fatal to him, we knew that his constitution had been much impaired by loni; service, especially on the American lakes and in the Birmese war. His a(;e was forty-eii;ht ; and at that time of life, a seaman who has served much is an aged man, if he does not chance to be worn out. My twn condition, from the stale of ancient wounds, broui^hl into troublesome action by that tendency to scurvy which displayed itself in no other very marked way, was, at this time, somewhat threatenini;. I had now, indeed, some reason to suppose that 1 might not be ultimately able to surmount all the present circum- stances ; in which case, 1 know not that my anxiety for the fate of those who might not have very well p.uided Ihemselves when I was no longer present to aid them, was not much greater than any- thing which 1 felt on my own account. The state of the ice could not have been worse than it was al the end of this month, and the hills were enliirly covered with snow. It was so deep about the jdace of our compulsory residence, that our miserable abode was ahuost hidden by it, like the snow hut of an Esquimaux in winter : and, as to our course of life and feelings, these are things which poetry might tell once, but which neither poetry nor prose can repeal for ever, with the hope that any one can listen, and understand, and feel. [March 1) iMarch began wiih a heavy gale of wind and drift snow, so that we could not see fifty yards off. The roaring of the ice was terrific; and, on the following day [March 2), the tempe- rature fell once more to minus 40", proceeding till it reached 43", on the fourth. There was no cessation of this gale till the sixth, when open water was visible to a great extent. Two reindeer were seen on the seventh, which we considered very early in the season, and on the two following days [March 8, 9) the temperature was 2li°. (March 10, 11 ) On Sunday it blew hard from the north-east, and the thermometer, to our great surprise, rose to plus 1°, reaching a" on the following day. [March V2to 16) On the twelfth, the water closed, and no more was seen this week; when it fell calm on Satur- day night, having blown a hard gale during the two preceding days. [March 17, 18) It was calm and snowy, with the Iherrao- ineler at minus 15°, both on Sunday and Monday. The second dovekie of the season was seen feeding at a crack in the ice. -i I 408 SECO^iD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY {March IJ) to 23) During .-ill Ihc remainder of this wcrk llw wi'allur uns sufticinilly jjood lo enable llie men to take exercise daily out oF doors. {March i\ to 31 ) There was a hard storm with drift snow to compensate lliis, which lasted the first three days of the present week; and wc were very eold, as the thermometer went down to 31". It moderated on the twenty-seventh, and the rest of the month, inciiiilinf; Snnday. eontinued the same; the ground heitig every where deeply covered with snow. The first eight days of March were nnnsnally severe: the change on the ninth was great and sndden, hut did not prove dnrahle. The mean temperature thus became ^U", as the extremes had been from minus 41>"to plus li". The gales were exceedingly severe, and the last, which was just before the equinox, continued during four days. The men bad, therefore, as in the preceding month, been ex- tremely confined; and thus the impossibility of taking exercise, added lo a want ofsrfTkienl employment, short allowance of food, ami the inevitable lowness of spirits produced by the unbroken sight of this didl, melancholy, uniform, waste of snow and ice, combined to reduce us all to a stale of very indifferent health. Mr. Thoni was ill, my old wounds were very troublesome, and two of the seamen were so far gone in the scurvy, that we were afraid ihc would not recover. On this account more than any other, we had reason lo lament our ill success in shooting ; as it was long, too, ere we could hope for the arrival of the summer birds, to allow us to add some frcsii meat to our diet. We had taken but three foxes and two hares i»» the whole month ; which, as food, amounted to nothing. At the end of it, after all the changes that had taken place imdei* the g"ies, ?he ice was so rough that it was impassable on sledges, and even on fool. No aurora borealis had been seen ; and, indeed, we bad scarcely noticed one the whole winter. We were indeed all very weary of this miserable home. It had been a welcome one when we first reached it; because it was a con- trast lo what had been much worse. It had received us, fatigued, shelterless, and half-starved, and it at least promised us comparative peace and rest. But the novelty of this feeling bad long been worn out; and, for a long time now, Ihe days had been almost without TO THE ARCriC REGIONS. 400 vuriatiun or mark j each tliiller than its prnhrcHHur .iinl liir iti|;lit reliirniiii] uiily to (ell iis llwil iinolhcr such il.iy would come to- morrow. Kv(!n the storms were without variety, amiti thin cttr- nal sam(MU'88 of snow and ice : there was nothing to see out of doors, even when werouhl fae^' the sky; and. within, It was to h)ok, equally, for variety and employment, and to Hud uD SUMMARY— MAY : TUE COMMENCEMEM OF THE JOURNEYS IJiTENDED FOR THE FUTURE EXPEDITION — JUNE : THE CONTINUANCE OF THESE ADVANCING JOURNEYS — JULY : TUE ABANDON3IENT OF THE W^INTER HOUSE, AND ARRIVAL AT THE BOATS— SUMMARY . [Apiil 1, /o 3 1833) The first day of April was overcast, with snow, and the temperature was at 12" minus at night. There was variable weather on the two following days, but it was, on the whole, mild, so that the men could walk out. {April ^) Some grouse were seen for the first time, together with two bears; and, on the fifth, the temperature rose to 5° plus, continuing thus till the end of the week. {Apn'n to 13) The first days of the present week afforded no variety, except that the day temperature rose to 2o" plus. It snowed on the tenth, and we saw two bears with two cubs, approaching, or about to pass not far from us. The hiiidermost was coming on alone, being the male; and, pajsing near to us, was killed. The TO THE ARCTIC REGIOIVS. SOI Willi [•e was ^11 the Some I; and, lus till last days of the week were very severe ones, with a heavy gale and drift slow; and the thermometer fell to 24" minus. {April 11 to 20) Sunday was not less stormy, and no one could go out. It moderated towards the afternoon on Monday, but we were still all imprisoned. On the next day it was still more quiet; but there was no possibility of undertaking any journey till the nineteenth, when a party of men were sent forward in advance, with a sledge of provisions, and, having deposited it about eight miles off, they returned ; making a second journey on the Saturday, with a similar sup|)ly, and returning at midnight. ( April 21 ) Nothing was done to day, and it was too cold on Monday {April 22) for travelling. Our present plan now, was to carry forward in advance, to the boats which we had left, sufficient provisions to last us from the first of July till the first of October; as that was the point whence our summer journey and voyage would commence. On Tuesday {April '2^), Commander Ross and the parties set off with two loads of various articles to the depAt, and returned about mid day on the twenty-fourth. In their way back, they saw a bear, and killed a seal : and, in the evening, another of the former, approaching the house, was killed. It had been at our flagstaff, which it had pulled down; and having found and eaten some bread, this was discovered on opening its stomach, which contained nothing'elsc. {April 'i'S to 27) The men made another trip, but returned with inflamed eyes, so that they were confined on the twenty sixth. On the next, the weather was fine, and the thermometer rose to 11° plus, the sun being very powerful : another journey was taken to the first depot, and the thermometer rose to 17°. {April '2^ to 50) Siuiday was a day of rest; and on the twenty- ninth, another journey completed the deposition of the provisions at the place of the boats. On the thirtieth, there w as a severe gale, and we could do nothing : and, with this last labour, we ended the month of April. The last month was, on the whole, mild, being never less than 26" minus, nor higher than 19" plus; and the mean temperature was minus 4", being four degrees above that at Port liowen, and seven above that at Victory harbour in the same month of the ' .st year. ^^"e had succeeded in getting all our provisions forward, contain- .!: '! ! ■ ^ ^ i :f\\ I 503 SECOiS'D VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT ing our supply from Ihe first of July to the end of September, and were thus ei|jlit miles, or a quarter of the distance, advanced to- wards the place of the boats in Batty bay. The transportation of them onwards to that depdt was calculated to be work enough for the next month, because the parties would be compelled to travel the same p.round eight times, so as to make the distance 2156 miles. The fat of the bears which we had killed was an addition of some moment to our fuel, as the skins had their own value. Five grouse had been killed ; but not a snow bunting had yet been seen. One fox only had been taken. The men were belter, except one of the scorbutic patients, John Wood, who appeared to be in a hopeless state. The sun had pro- duced a visible effect on the snow, which was now disappearing from Ihe tops of the hills. {Muyl to!) The gale, which continued all this day, prevented us from carrying on our provisions : and it thus persisted until the seventh, being a continued storm, which entirely hindered us from moving during the whole of the time. The thermometer was be- tween 3« minus, and 10° plus. Two bears were wounded. {May 8) This day was nearly calm ; and having got all our prepa- rations ready, we set out at eleven at night; this being the best period of the twenty-four hours for travelling. On the next day {May 9), at three in the morning, we attained the first position ; having travelled eight miles. At eight in the evening, having rested here, we set out once more with the sledges, containing six casks oF bread ; having left three sick men at the house to be brought up by another journey. {May 10) At noon we reached the second position in Two River bay; whence, depositing the first load, we returned ten miles to bring up another. The ice was found extremely bad, so as to compel us to keep close under the precipices. In the evening we went back to that place with the second load, arriving with it at three in the morning {May 11). At eight we returned for the third cargo, and brought it up on the twelfth of May, a little after mid- night: going back once more to our old position for a fourth load, which was brought up on the thirteenth of May, about the same hour. {May 14 /o24) Not to repeat these daily proceedings. I may now say. generally, that in this advance from our house towards the ^''- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. fi(t3 boats which we had loft in the precedinfj year, each stage of the distance rojiiired four journeys; since, more for want of power' than that of carriages, we could not otherwise transport our several stores, and, in addition to those, the men that were loo ill to walk. It was not, therefore, till the twenty-fourth thai we arrived with the first loru ; ar the place of the boats; which wc could not at firsl discover, ao deeply was the ground covered with snow. To dig for them and the concealed stores, occupied the greatest part of the day : while we were much impeded, and at last slopped, by a strong breeze, accompanied by a heavy snow-drift. The weather had been variaide, and often very snowy during this period; and the consecpience was to add much to the d'fficullies of this already miserable and tedious travelling. The range of the thermometer had been from minus 2" to plus 18"; so that it was still very cold. {IHay 215) It became calm and mild on the twenty-fifth, so that the work of bringing forward the loads proceeded, both on this and the following day {May 26); on which latter I remained with the boats in Bally bay, to make observations, while the party returned to felch up what was still left. I came back much fatigued. Sleep- ing here alone in the hut, pbout midnight, a bear pulled away the stones which supported the canvas roof, and fell in, nearly on the place were I lay. On calling out to know who was there, the creature went off to the other hut, when, as it was examining the cook's kettle, il received a shot from my gun, under which, whether wounded or not, it was soon out of sight. {May 27 to 31 ) The last days of this most tiresome travelling were by milch the worst; as there were severe showers of snow, with very cold weather, by which the way was at last made so bad, that had it happened sooner, we should have been stopped alto- gether. On the twenty-ninth, all having at length been concentrated, we returned to our house on Fiu*y beach, i killed a bear and two foxes on one of these days ; the total number of the latter in this month having been twelve. The sight of some gulls twice In this month was a very welcome one. The mean temperature of this month was lowep by seven degrees than that at Port Bowen in 1824 ; il was ll" plus, and the extremes plus 215 and minus 3". There had been no appearance of a thaw ; the ice in the offing wns as bad as ever, and the two or three gulls, ! t « d!! ^ 'I ^■-'; ji fi04 SECOIVD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY with a few snow buntinfi^s that we saw, without one grouse, were but feeble signs of an advancing summer. The fatigues of the men, of men and officers, since no one was exempted, were very great in the last twenty days of the month which our ever renewed travelling occupied; yet they had not materially suffered, though the sick continued no better. Our allowance of provisions was as low as before, and the mode of distribution into meals the same; while the night had been made our day. The quantity of provisions that we had secured thus far on our road to the expected liberation, was sufficient to last us, on n two-thirds allowance, till the first of October. {June 1 ) Having thus carried forward to the boats all that could be spared from our actual wants, that every thing might be in readi- ness for moving whenever the ice should open, we had now to occupy ourselves as we best could at our " Somerset house," and to make ourselves as content as might be till it was time to move again. This apparently premature advance was absolutely neces- sary; because, at a later period, when it should be tir .^ for the boats to move and make the attempt to navigate the frozen strait. the roads from our winter residence to their place would not only be much worse, but might prove impassable for siicn loads, under the little power that we had at command. With the present ar- rangements, the surplus that mii;ht remain with us would be mode- rate, and a shoi t time would bring us up to the boats, in readiness to sail; whereas, had this last month's work been deferred, the ico might have opened, and joined again for the winter, before we were ready to take advantane of it. The journal of this month is therefore, very generally, uniform and uninteresting. To us it was so : it cannot be otherwise to a reader. {June '2 to 8) Divine service was re-established on Sunday. It was very bad weather, with strong northerly winds, snow, and drift, on the three following days; but it improved as we advanced towards the end of the week, the thermometer rising to 30° : not- withstanding which low temperature, the sun dissolved much of the new snow, and laid bare again some parts of the hills. Some birds were killed. {June 9, 10) The weather continued better. On Monday a bear came to the hut, and began to devour some skins, with the carcass of the one formerly shot ; when it was killed ; having, as it (*' TO THE AKCTIC REGIONS. /ji).") proveil on txaniination. been formerly woundeil. (JuneW to \\S) Some riiiii fell on the eleventh, for the first time, but it soon became snow ; nolwi hstinuling which, on the following day, water was seen lunnini; dowij in several places, and there were many pools on the ice. Hence, on to Saturday, the wealber continued variable; being sf our own comforts, to have reserved our best and most delicate food for the sick, to have nursed and tended those who had ceased to be aught but an encum- brance, and of whom, some, as we full knew, were not destined to survive. That may be very true : I believe, that as regarded our- .seivoSf we did wrong ; it is possible that such notions may have occurred to me for a moment or two since my return, when the in- gratitude and obloquy which I have experienced from those very persons in particular have vexed me; and I believe that when the history of the wreck of the Meduse has been recited to me by those i«i^ :» — ^7r\ X: TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 607 friends, I may have sometimes wondered why we should so far have iliffcred ; little willini; as 1 am to rcmeinher anything^ which may make human nature appear in an evil light, or to add to the bitter feelin|i[ which Enp.land too often entertains towards i(s neighbour. Hut in spite of all that might then have occurred to our minds, thouj'h I cannot recollect that it did once occur, in spite of such in- convenience a*, we did really suffer, and such hazards as we did risk, and in spite of the ingratitude w hich I much fear I have expe- riem^ed where 1 ought not, I imagine that I did no more than it was proper to do, and which I shoidd do again in the same circumstan- ces : yet is this not boasting, since I am sure that every British officer would do the same, as 1 know that every Chrislian man ought, in any situation. If it is true that France really wants such a lesson, I must be sorry ; but I fear that no lesson w ill influence those who have not in their hearts the inclination to do right, or who are not governed by some better motive than the praise of men ; in this expecting that poor reward, which, in just punishment of their mo- lives, may even be withheld. (July 1 to 4) The wind and weather were variable during the first four days of July, but generally cold, with snow and sleet, while the thermometer at night scarcely ever rose above the freez- ing point. Our preserved meat was expended; and we hatl here, now , no other fresh animal food than what we could procure by our guns; which was not much as yet, since it consisted but of a few ducks and dovekies. Some spare grates were made for (he house, and the roof was repaired and strengthened, in case we should be obliged to return to it for the ensuing winter; though somewhat at a loss to know how we were to subsist under such an unfortunate event. (July 15. 6) A quantity of flannel cartridges were given to the men for repairing their clothes before encountering the journey to Batty bay. An avalanche of ice from the cliffs, intermixed with rocks and water, was a novel sight, and, in this dearth of events, would have been interesting, even had it been far less splendid as a spectacle. Falling into the sea, it carried all before it ; breaking the flat ice tea great distance, and showing us, had that been now ne- cessary, the manner in which the icebergs are sometimes found to be covered with fragments of rock and layers of earth. So many of my countrymen have now seen the avalanches of the iij*'i! •i \ b'.' i ;>*■ ^ 508 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISr.OVtKY Alps, and so many more have read of Ihosc, in prose and in poetry, as there are some who ran never forget the splendid pielure of Lon- Iherbourg on this sid>jeel, thai any alleinpt on my part to describe such an oeeurrenee as this must he snperttuons, as it cannot fail to he tVelde. Yet there was a variety in this, which, could I adecpiately (lescrihe it, in even the plainest prose, or represent it in the meanest drawing, would not fail to strike even those who have witnessed uliat Switzerland can show. It was not the snow ball, gipantic as that may be, delaching itself from the mountain summit, {gaining in magnitude as in velocity duriufj its progress, and then thundering down an irregular declivity, sliding, boimding, and breaking, till il bad safely loU VOVAGt OF IMJiV.OVKBk CHAPTi:ii LVf. \l(;uaT— DETECTION \T nVTTY BVY— THE KJE HRE\K.S — DEJ'MV- TLHE IX THE BOATS— REACH THE EVSTEKN COAST OF IMV1M<;E regent's I^LET— MEET WITH THE ISABELLA. AMD ARE REf.EIVEI) O.^ BOARD. (tiifjuist 1 to i;>, 183.') Ilt'lwecn Iht; firsliind llu- Hflf'ciilli oIIIk niuntli of August, the nliangos ot'' the wind i\\\\\ llic vacillations in the nature of the weather were such as I have often reeonled ihn'iui; the past two; while the general result is all that is here worthy of noti<;e. The prevailing naliu'e of the fc: aicr was north-easterly : and the conseipienee was, to block \t\\ the shore with ice, and to keep us closely imprisoned to our beach and our boats. On the third, indeed, we made an attempt to move round the soulhern point of the bay : but beiU); unable to elfect this, ami finding the blockade of this headland so heavy that the bay must open sooner, so as to give us notice where we might possibly pass it, wc re- turned, as there was nothing to gain by this project. But even this fruitless labour was not without it use. The result of it was, to do something: and, to do, even what was useless, was to keep up the spirits and hopes of the people, as it also inter- rupted that uniformity of idle wakefidness which led them to brood over their present condition, and to indulge in evil anticipations. The Highland sjpiire who makes Boswell haul on the backstay in a gale of wind, displays more knowledge than a landsman has any right to possess. I know not what we should have done, what would have •' become of us," as the phrase is, had we not made work when we had ceased to find it. •• The men," as they are called, are not much given to thinking, it is certain ; though seamen of the present day (and I am sorry to say it), think much more than they did in the days of my junior service, and, most assuredly and certainly, are " all the worse"" for it. Let my fraternity in command say " ■ y^-yt TO nit \IU.\U: KECilONS .M:( wht'llin- (liJH lie true or not; .uiil (liry nrv (he liold inrti ulio will so say. (l<'H|)il(> of the paltry, faiitaiitiral, ami prctrniiini;;. ultra pliilanlhropy of those d.iyji of ruinous folly. Hut that is an '>ver sorious matttr to discuss at present. " An idle man is a pillow for llie devil." says a Spanish or Italian proverb: it was iu>t i;ood that our men should have heeii pillowed in this manner : lutler was it that they should work Ihemselves into utter weariiu'ss, that thev should so hunfi[er as to think only of their stomaehs, fall aslee|> anil BO.VKD OF THE ISABELLA — SUHVEY OF TUK^HlVST — DEPAUTLRE— AKRJVAL AT HULL, AND IN LONDON. (yiugust ;27, 1833) On conversing with had missed him ; while it was on his rclnrn Ihal we met, after he iiad examined the eastern shore for us in vain. That he had not notiecd our boats, though he had seen them, arose from his having mistaken them for those of the William Lee. Being tiesirous to leave, at Possession bay, a notice to any vessel which might land there in search of us, as also to verify my chro- nometer, I was landed for these purposes; and, after burying a liolile, with a slate of the facts, at the same cairn which we had built in 1818, we returned on board and bore up. Before noon, keeping on the outside of the land ice, we had rounded Cape (]raham Moore ; and, after some considerable difficulties among the floating pieces and the icebergs, attained a place of safety, though continuing beset, (September 1) On Sunday, divine service was performed; giving us a now public opportunity of offering our thanksgivings for our almost miraculous deliverance. The William Lee and some other vessels were nov, seen at Ilit- oiiii'"ard edge of the ice; but we did not ourselves get v^lear till the Ihi? ictnth, when, with the aid of the sails, we warped out, and. Uaiii'ing to the southward, fell in with the fleet of whalers on the fi JMUg ground. From each vessel the master came on board to w'l nse us; and >hose from Hull old Newcastle in particular, brought us presents from their stock, which >\ere very acceptable, and as tl.ankfully receivcil. We were now for several days on the Isabella and Alexander banks, which had been unwarrantably expunged from the charts of my voyage in 1818. I, therefore, landed at Cape Bisson, and, by an observed difference of longitude, established the truth of my for- mer observations. These coineuled with the judgment of Captain Humphreys; and unaer the facilities which he afforded me, 1 resur- veyed the coast, with several of the bays f.nd inlets; with the inten- tion of publishi'.g a sjMjcial chart of a place rendered so important by its abundnl fishery. Toward the end of the mouth the winter set in with unusual severity, and it became evjuenl J'aat we could not remain much longer in those seas. The ( larendon, w! :"U was in company, de- parted without taking the Kuters which I had intended to send by her; though, had we not been obliged to land some men in Orkney, we should have been at home as soon as that vessel. r\ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. .521 It was oil the Ihiilielli of Scpleiiiln'r lint \\v (luilk'd Davis's slii'iits; and on llu' twelfth of October, after only a twelve days' passage, we landed at Stroinness. We were detained on the two next at the Long Hope; from which, sailing on the fifleenlh, we reached the Ilnmber on the cigliteenth, and proceeded to Hnll in the Rotterdam steam-boat. The news of our arrival having preceded ns, it was with some difficulty we could reach the inn : where we shortly received visits of welcome from the Mayor and Corporation, the officers of the Trinity-house, and the Philosophical Society, together with many of the principal i)erson8 of this ancient place. The freedom of the town was afterwards conferred on nie; ami, after a public enter- tainment, we all embarked in the steam-boat for London, where we arrived on the nineteenth. Here I immediately reported myself in the Secretary of the Admiralty, and on the next morning, caused myself to be presented to His iMajesty at Windsor: receiving per- mission to dedicate my journal to him. and to add the name of \> iiliam the Fourlh to the .Magnetic Pole. 'II,;,!' A\ I' .: . k ('• 11 '^ n\i I'W!! it rcf P^ ■' I ( lA ■J ADDENDA. On ray arrival in London on llie 20th of October 1833, it became my first duly to repair to the royal palace at Windsor, with an account of my voya{];p, and to lay at the feet of His Majesty the British flag which had been hoisicd on the Mai;netic Pole, I had the honour of being most graciously received by His Majesty, who had always taken a deep interest in my enter- prize, and who immediately granted me permission to inscribe his illus- trious name, and that of Her Majesty the Queen, on my chart at the Magnetic Pole ; and commanded me to place round it the names of the Royal Family, and the reigning crowned heads of Europe. On the 21st, my letter (appended) was read at the Admiralty, and subsequently published by order of the Right Honourable Sir James Graham, Bart., then First Lord of the Admiralty, with whom I had an interview immediately after his arrival in town. The very Uberal manner in which Government was pleased to reward the oflRcers and men employed under my command will appear from the sub- joined letters ; but with regard to myself I w as desired to wait until my case had been laid before the Cabinet; and it was not until late in February that it was intimated to me, that " His Majesty's Government considering the promotion of my nephew from Commander to Post Captain, the appoint- ment of Mr. Thom to the Canopus, the promotion of Mr. M'Diarmid to Suigcon, and the payment of the wages of the crew, a sufficient recompense to me, and that nothing more would be given to me. " Depending on the liberality of Government, I had declined receiving any of the subscriptions which had been proposed for the remuneration of my losses, and the small sum which had been subscribed at Plymouth was faithfully divided among the widows and relatives of the men w ho died, and one who lost bis sight, on the voyage. I had no alternative but to apply to Parliament ; and my case having been brought before the House of Commons by the Right Hon. R. Cutlar Fergusson, was discussed on the 17th of March, when, for the lirsl time, I learnt that it was supposed my undertaking this enterprize was to recover a lost reputation. My case was, fortunately for me, sub- mitted to a Select Committee of the House of Coramo... , and 1 had before ADDE?IDA. 60.1 this hi|;h tribiiniil an opportunity of refntinff calumnies which had boon industriously circulated against me, by producing documentary evidence that my conduct on the former expedition had been approved of by the Ad- miralty, as will appear by the following extract from the minutes of the Committee : " Question — Did you conceive your reputation had been placed at all in question in consequence of the result of your first voyage ? " y/n«M?er— No, certainly not. The Admiralty approved of my conduct by givinff me promotion subsequent to my return. When I was attacked anonymously I applied for a court-martial on my conduct, and was told by Lord Melville that I had received my promotion , and the court-marfial w as therefore unnecessary, and that 1 must not take notice of anything that w as written against me. " Question— hid he at the same time state that you would not have re- ceived your promolion if the Admiralty had not been satisfied with your conduct :' " Answer— Yqs. I have a letter from Lord Melville in proof of that fact, which 1 will read : " ' I entertain no doubt whatever, from the general impression on my mind, and from reference to the dates of your promolion to the rank of Commander and of Captain, and to your employment in the intervening period, that your commission in 1818 was inconsequence of former ser- vices. On the other hand, if your conduct as commander of the Isabella had been disapproved of at the Admiralty, most assuredly you would not have been promoted so soon after you return. ' " The Committee having unanimously expressed their satisfaction, pro- ceeded to inquire into my case relative to the last voyage, and made the following Report, which is extracted from the parliamentary papers : The Select Committee consisted of — 'l||;h.|l npense Mr. Cutlar Fergusson on the Sir Robert Peel iptions Sir Robert Inglis small Sir James Graham UTiong Mr. Hutt sight. Mr. Aglionby (id my Mr. Chapman Right Sir Henry Hardinge n, for Sir Edward Codrington rprize , sub- I The said Committee had )efoie m and five were declared to Mr. William Gladstone Mr. Evvart Mr. Bannerman Sir Andrew Agnew Mr. Edward Stewart Mr. George Robinson Mr. Warburton Lord Dudley Stuart Mr. Stuart Mackenzie Mr. Fox Talbot Mr. Brotherton Mr. Emerson Tennent Mr. G. F. Young Mr. Hughes Hughes Lord Viscount Sandon Mr. Labouchere Mr. O'Connell fji At4 ADDEM)\ R E P H T. Your Commillee linvt' not fell ilinnsclvos eillier railed upon by Jhcii oidtT of rrfnencf or coinpelenl lo ;{iv»* an opinion on tlio pn'cis- lufiils or exlent of the discovciiKB made dnrini; the cxiiedilion roinniandoi! Ij' f'-i'P- tain John Ross, \\li«'lher in a ijcojfrapliical or soicnlific point of view ; they have therefore confined tlieniselvcx lo such a {jeneral invesliijalion into the facts, us may sufHce for a decision on the main ipieslion coinmilled to their hands, wlietlier any reward sliouhl be allotted from (he public purse, and to whom that reward is due. In the course of this Intpiiry I hey find that, in the year 1827, Captain Ross, stimulated l)y the desire of securini; to this coutnry the honour of seltlinfj the lonj;-a{ji!ated question of a North-west Passaije, proposed first to His Majesty's Government, and, on their decliniui; to undertake it, lo his friend, Mr. Felix Booth, to fit out an expedition for that purpose ; that in the followinjf year Mr. Booth, finding that the Act by w liich a parliamentary reward was held out for the discovery of a North-west Passa|;c had been repealed, and that no suspicion of interested motives could any longer rest upon the undertakinfi;, " having no other object in view than the avanre- menl of the honour of his country and the interests of science, and lo (jralify the feelings of a friend," inmiedialely aj^reed to Captain Ross's pro- position, on condition tht! his coimexion with Hie enler|)rize should not be ninnle known : Iha! aecordinfjly, ^^ ilh the exception of about two Ihou sand pounds exieoJedby C;iptain Ross, Mr. Booth did actually bear all llic charfjes of the expedition, lo the amount of between seventeen and ei;;hleen thousand pounds : Ihat Captain Ross, beini; left by Mr. Boolh at liberty to eiioose whom he pleased to accompany him, received {{raluitous offers of zealous service and assistance, «n any capacity, from Ihose dislin,i;uishe(l officers, Captain^? Back and Hoppncr, offers equally creditable to Captain Ross and lo the spirit of those who made them; but finally selected his nephew , Commander James Clark Ross, a yoniiR officer of distin{;uislied scien tific attainments, who had been employed 'n every previous expedition In the Arctic Seas ; and havinjj engaged Mr. Thorn as purser, w ho, as well as Commander Ross, a(;reed tojjo without pay, and Mr. M'Diarmid assurjjeon. together with a crew of nineteen men, sailed fiom England in May 1829 : that in spite of the mutiny of the crew of a whaler, which had been engaged to accompany them with provisions. Captain Ross persevered, in reliance AI)I)1M).\. 4M on findini; llio Kiipplii's w lii< li li.-xl Ixon laiuUd by llic Fury, on Fury Bcnrli, and tlitn onUrcd ii|ion a course ol Kiiffcrini;^, uF dangers and discoveries, fur a snnunary ol'^^ liich y(»ur Comniillce would refer llie House to the fol- hmin{; leller addressed by bini to tbe Secretary of ttie Hoard of Admiralty. take it, to f'0)>x of a lA'tti'f from Captain Tiosa to Captain the llonourablv (ivonjc Elliot, C. li. ; dated on board the Isabella of Hull, Ha/Jln's Hay September 1833. On board tlic Ltalx lla ot lltill, natTiii'sllay. bcptcndu-r 1835. Sin, Knowing bow deeply my Lords (lomniissioiiers of tbe Admiralty are interested in tbe advancement of natural kuo\vled|;e. and particularly in tbe improvement ori;eo|;rapby, i bave to ac(piaint you. for tbe information of tbeir Lordsbips. tbat tbe expedition, tbe main object of wbidi to solve if possible tbe ipicslion of a Noptb-west passaife frf)M tbe Atlanlic to tbe I'acific Ocean, particularly by Prince Ilej'.enl's lnl< i wbicb sailed fnmi Fni;land in May 1829. notwitbstaudinf; tbe lossof iiic f()re-mast. and otber untoward <-ircum.stances, wbicb oblif;ed tbe vessel to refit in (ireenland, readied tbe beacb on wbicb Ilis Majesty's late sbip Fury's stores were landed, on 13tb Auf^iist. Wo found tbe boats, provisions, etc. in excelb'ul condition, but no ves- li|j nortb in lonijitude 91'' weslj'bere we found a considerable inlet leadinj» to tbe westward, tbe examination of wbicb occupied two days; at Ibis place we were first seriously obstructed by ice, wbicb was now sure to extend, from tbe Soutb Ca|)e of tbe inlet, in a solid mass, round by soutb and east to E.N.E. Owini; to this circumstance, tbe sballowness of tbe water, tbe rapiilily of tbe tides, tbe tenipestuous wealber, tbe irregularity of tbe coast, and tbe numerous inlets and rocks, for wbicb it is remarkable, our progress was no less dangerous than tedious, yet we succeeded in penelratiiij; below the latitude of 70" nortb in louj itude 92' west, wbere tbe land, after bavinfj canicd us as far east as 90 ', look a decided westerly direction, wbile land at tbe distance of forty miles lo southward, was seen trendinjj east and west. At tbis extreme point our proifress was arrested on Ist October by an impenetrable barrier of ice. We, bowtver, found an excellent wintering port wbicb we named Felix Harbour. '' -^w b Hi j8 M i f I \y 4* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A (./ '-^^A :/. 1.0 I.I 11.25 Ik ■10 1^ 1^ Hf m 1^ 12.5 2.2 2.0 JA IIIIII.6 V] v^ >51 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 526 AI)I)EiM)4. E.iily in January 1830, we had tlie good fortune to establish a friendly intercourse with a most interesting association of natives, who, being insulated by nature, had never before communicated with strangers ; from them we gradually obtained the important information that we had already seen the Continent of America, that, about forty miles to the south-west there were two great seas, one (o the west, which w as divided from that to the east l)y a narrow strait or neck of land. The verification of this intel- ligence either way, on w hich our future operations so materially depended, devolved on Commander Ross, who volunteered this service early in April, accompanied by one of the mates, and guided by two of the natives, pro- ceeded to the spot, and found that the north land was connected to th» south, by two ridges of high land 15 miles in breath; but taking into account a chain of fresh water lakeii, which occupied the valleys between, the dry land, which actually separates the two oceans, is only five miles. This extraordinary isthmus was subsequently visited by myself, when Commander Ross proceeded minutely to survey the sea coast to the sorth- ward of the isthmus leading to the westward, which he succeeded in tracing to the 99tb degree, or to 220 miles of Cape Turngain, of Franklin, to which point the land, after leading him into the 70th degree of north latitude, trended directly ; during the same journey be also surveyed 30 miles of the adjacent coast, or that to the north of the isthmus which, by also taking a westerly direction, formed the termination of the western sea into a gulf. The rest of this season was employed in tracing the sea coast south of the isthmus, leading to the eastward, which was done so as to leave no doubt that it joined, as the natives bad proviously informed us, to Ackullee, and the land fonning Repulse Bay. It was also determined that there w as no passage to the westward for 30 miles to the northward of our position. This summer , like that of 1818, was beautifully fine , but extremely un- favourable for navigation, and our object being now^ to try a more northern latitude , we w aited w ith anxiety for the disruption of the ice , but in vain, and our utmost endeavours did not succeed in retracing our steps more than four miles , and it w as not until the middle of November , that we succeed- ed in cutting the vessel into a place of security , which we named " She- riff's Harbour." I may here mention , that we named the newly discovered continent , to the southward, "Boothia," as also the isthmus, the peninsula to the north , and the eastern sea , after my worthy friend , Felix Booth , Esq., the truly patriotic citizen of London , w ho , in the most disinterested manner enabled me to equip this expedition in a superior style. The last w inter w as in temperature nearly equal to the means of what had been experienced on the four preceding voyages , but the winters of 1830 and 1831 set in with a degree of violence hitherto beyond record, the thermometer sank to 92' below the freezing point, and the average of the t I ADDENDA. o.i/ year was lO^ below the precedinn ; luit notwilhstandiiiR the severity of the summer , we travelled across the country to the West Sea , by a chain of lakes, 30 miles north of the isthmus, when Commander Ross succeeded in surveying 50 miles more of the coast leading to the N. W. and. by tracing the shore to the northward of our position, it was also fully proved that there could be no passage below the 71st degree. This autumn we succeeded in getting the vessel only 14 miks to the northward, and as we h;id not doubled the Eastern Capes, all hopes of sa- ving the ship w as at an end , and put quite beyond possibility by another very severe w inter , and having only provisions to last us to June I . 1832, dispositions were accordingly made to leave the ship in her present port , which (after her) was named " Victory Harbour."* Provisions and fuel being carried forward in the spring, we left the ship on May 29, 1832 , for Fury Beach , being the only chance left of saving our lives. Owing to the very rugged nature of the ice , we were obliged to keep either upon or close to the land , making the circuit of every bay , thus increasing our dis- tance of 200 miles by nearly one half, and it was not until July 1, that we reached the beach , completely exhausted by hunger and fatigue. A hut was speedily constructed , and the boats , three of which had been washed off the beach , but providentially driven on shore again , were repaired during this month ; but the unusual heavy appearance of the ice afforded us no cheering prospect until August I , when in three boats we reached the ill-fated spot where the Fury was lirst driven on shore . and it was not until September I, we reached Leopold South Island , now esta- blished to be the N. E. point of America , in lat. 73» 56', and long. 90' west. From the summit of the lofty mountain on the promontory we could see Prince Regent's Inlet , Barrow's Strait , and Lancaster Sound , which pre- sented one impenetrable mass of ice just as I had seen it in 1818; here we remained in a state of anxiety and suspense , which may be easier ima gined than described. All our attemps to push through were vain; at length being forced by w ant of provisions and the approach of a most severe winter to return to Fury Beach, where alone there remained where-with to sustain life ; there we arrived on October 7, after a most fatiguing and laborious march , having been obliged to leave our boats at Batty Bay. Our habitation , which consisted in a frame of spars , 32 feet by 16, covered with canvas, was during the month of November enclosed, and »hc roof co- vered with snow from four to seven feet thick , which being saturated with water when the temperature was 15" below zero, immediately look the consistency of ice , and thus we actually became the inhabitants of an i\ i ' This has since been named Victoria Harbour, by permission of their Royal lligh- nosses the Ducliess of Kent and Princess Victoria, r)28 ADDEISDA. iceber{; duriri}; one^of tlie most severe winters liillierlo recorded : our suffer- ings, agp,ravated by want of bedding, clotbing , and animal food, need not be dwelt upon. Mr. C. Thomas, the carpenter, was the only man w ho perished at tiiis beach, but three others, besides one who had lost his foot, were reduced to tiie last stage of debility, and only thirteen of our number were able to carry provisions in seven journeys of sixty-two miles each to Batty-Bay. We left Fury Beach on July 3, carrying with us three sick men which w ere unable to walk, and in six days we reached the boats, where the sick daily recovered. Although the spring was mild it was not until August 15 that we had any cheering prospect, a gale from the west- ward having suddenly opened a lane of water along shore : in two days we reached our former position , and from the moutain we had the satis- faction of seeing clear water almost directly across Prince Regent's Inlet, w hich we crossed on the 17lh, and took shelter from a storm twelve miles to the eastward of Cape York. Next day. when the gale abated, we cross- ed Admiralty Inlet, and were detained six days on the coast by a stronff north-east wind. On the 251h we crossed Navy-Board Inlet, and on thi^ following morning, to our inexpressible joy, we descried a ship in the offing becalmed, which proved to be the Isabella, of Hull, the same shiji which I commanded in 1818 ; at noon we reached her, when her enterpri- zing commander, who had in vain serched for us in Prince Regent's Inlet, after }, ving us three cheers, received us w ith every demonstration of kind- ness and hospitality which humanity could dictate. 1 ought to mention, also, that Mr. Humphreys, by landing me at Possession Bay, and subse- quently on the w est coast of Baffin's Bay, afforded me an excellent opportu- nity of concluding my survey, and of verifying my former chart of that coast. 1 now have the pleasing duty of calling the attention of 'heir Lordships to the merits of Commander Ross, w ho was second in the direction of this expedition. The labours of this officer, w ho had the departments of As- tronomy, Natural History, and Surveying, will speak for themselves in lan- guage beyond the ability of my pen, but they will be duly appreciated by their Lordships, and the learned bodies of which he is a meml>er, and w ho are already well acquainted with his acquirements. My steady and foithful friend, Mr. William Thorn, of the Royal Navy, w ho was fo,rmerly with me in the Isabella, besides his duty as third in command, took charge of the Meteorological Journal ; the distribution and economy of provisions : and to his judicious plans and suggestions must be attributed the uncommon degree of health which our crew enjoyed ; and as two out of the three who died the four and a half years, were cut off early in the voyage by diseases not peculiar to the climate, only one man can be said to have perished. y ADDEINDA. ftSQ H'dships of this U of As- in Ian- bled by Ind wbo Mr. M'Diarmid, (he surifpon, who had been several voyaRes to these retjions, did justice lo the iiiijh recomineiidation 1 received of him : he was successful in every amputation and operation which he performed, and wonderfully so in his treatment of the sick ; and I have no hesitation in adding, that he would be an ornament to His Majesty's service. Commander Ross, Mr. Thom, and myself, have, indeed, been serving with- out pay, but, in common with the crew, have lost our all ; which I regret themore,fbecause itputs it totally out of my jiower adecpialely to remunerate my fellow-sufferers, whose case I cannot but recommend for their Lord- ships' consideration. We have, however, the consolation that the results of this expedition have been conclusive, and to science highly important ; and may be briefly comprehended in the following words : The discoveryof the Gulf of Boothia, the Continent and Isthmus of Boothia Felix, and a vast number of islands, rivers, and lakes 5 the undeniable establishment, that the N.E. point of America extends to the 74th degree of north latitude. Valuable observa- tions of every kind, but particularly on the magnet; and to crown all, we have had the honour of placing the illustrious name of our most gra- cious Sovereign, William the Fourth, on the true position of the Magnetic Pole. I cannot conclude this letter, Sir, without acknowledging the important advantages we obtained, from the valuable publications of Sir Edward Parry and Sir John Franklin, and the communication kindly made lo us by these distinguished officers before our departure from England. But the glory of this enterprize is entirely due to Him Avhose divine favour has been most especially manifested towards us, who guided and directed all our steps, w ho mercifully provided effectual means for our preserva- tion, and who, even after the devices and inventions of man had utterly failed, crowned our humble endeavours with complete success. I have the honour to be, etc. JOHN ROSS, Capt. R. N. Your Committee have found the statements contained in the above letter confirmed, as far as they have been examined, by the evidence which has appeared before them 5 and, supported by the opinions of Captain Beaufort, hydrographer to the Admiralty, of Mr. Children, one of the secretaries of the Royal Society, and of Professor Barlow, who has made the magnetic variations his particular study : they see no reason to doubt that Captain Ross nearly approached, and that Commander Ross actually reached, the Magnetic Pole. The importance, especially to a maritime nation, of this discovery, and of 36. |ih,|i ' 1 ■'■m 530 ADDENDA. Hie observations connected with maffnetic science, arising thereout, is most hijjhly estimated by the scientific witnesses wlio have been examined, and is further attested by the zeal with which this branch of science has been of late pursued l)y eminent men in every country, and by the expense wliich several foreijjn {jovernments have of late years incurred for the same object. Under these circumstances your Committee can have no hesitation in reportinff, that a fjreat public service has been performed. Independently of the demonstration that one passage, which had been considered by preceding navifjators to be one of the most likely to lead from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, does not exist, thus narrowing the field for future expeditions, if such should ever be undertaken ; independently of the addition of between six and seven hundred miles of coast to our geographical knowledge, and of the valuable additions to magnetic science and meteoro- logy, which this expedition will supply, your Committee cannot overlook the public service which is rendered to a maritime country, especially in time of peace, by deeds of daring enterprize and patient endurance of hard- ship, which excite the public sympathy and enlist the general feeling in favour of marilime adventure. Of this result they have strong evidence in the national subscription which furnished the funds for the expedition of Captain Back, in search of Ca^t tin Ross and his gallant party, to which the Government also contributed 2000/. To the importance of these considerations, your Committee are happy to have to report that His Majesty's Government has not been insensible. Although Captain Ross's expedition was undertaken entirely on private risk, and the Board of Admiralty could not therefore be held responsible for any liabilities incurred, or be called upon in strictness to notice in any way the services of the individuals engaged in it, yet, as far as the power of the Admiralty extends, none of these services has gone unnoticed or| unre- warded. It appears from a memorandum delivered in to your Committee by the Admiralty, that " all the men have received double full pay until they finally abandoned their ship, and full pay after that until their arrival in England, amounting to the gross sum of 4580/. ; that they have besides been employed in eligible situations in the dock yards, or placed in others that will lead to promotion ;" that Mr. Abernethy, the gunner, " has been promoted, and appointed to the Seringapatam ;" that Mr. Thorn, purser, " has been appointed to the lucrative situation of purser of the Canopus, of eighty-four guns;" that Mr. M'Diarmid, the medical oflficer of the expedi- tion, " has been appointed assistant-surgeon of the navy, and, when qualified to pass his examination, v. ill be promoted to the rank of surgeon;" that Commander Ross, to whom it appears that the greater part of the scientific results of the expedition are due, " has been placed on full pay, ADDENDA. 631 ixpedi- when and appointed commander of the Victory fur twelve months, that lie may by tliat lenjflh of service be enal)led to receive (lie ranl< of post-ca|»lain. wliii'h is by a s|>ecial minute of the A«hniralty cnsurcil to liim at (he e.\|)ira- tion of that lime;" and that Captain John Hinn|)lireys, of the Isabella, to wliose perseverinff humanity alone Captain Ross and his parly, undei- Provi- dence, in all probability owe their Uses, has received thai remuneration for the expense of brintjinfj Ihein home which, U|>on consideration, lias been thou{;ht proper by the Admiralty, and which, appears to your Commitlee lo be a reasonable compensation. Captain Ross alone, the commander of the expedition, who had the anxious and painful responsibility of the health and discipline of the party for above four years, under circumstances of unparalleled difficulty and hardship, and who had the merit of maintainiiij; both health and discipline in a remaikable decree ( for only one man in twenty-three was lost in conseciuence of the expedition ), is, owinj; to his rank, not in a situation to receive any reward from the Admirally in the way of promotion. IIavin{; incurred expenses and losses lo the amount of nearly three thousand pounds, and received no more than the half-pay which had accumulated during the expedition, he remains with the same rank with which he w ent out. Under these circumstances, and lookin{j to the advan- tages to science and the honour lo his country, which have resulted from the expedition under his command ; looking to the expense which the country has been w illing to incur on former occasions for similar expedi- tions, and to the rewards which it has voted even for less important and honourable objects, your Committee hope they are not transgressing the bounds of a due regard to public economy, in recommending that a sum of five thousand pounds be voted to Captain John Ross. To Mr. Felix Booth, to whose modest public spirit and rare munificence this expedition is entirely due, your Committee regret that they have it not in their power to propose some fit token of public acknowledgment; but they cannot forbear offering the tribute of their admiration and respect. The case of a poor man afflicted with blindness in consequence of the expedition, has been brought before the notice of your Committee by a member of the House ; and your Commitlee beg to recommend it to such consideration, as lo His Majesty's Government, after due investigation of the facts, may seem fit. April, 1834. LORD VISCOUNT SANDON . Chairman. I may here mention that no subscription has ever been received by me for my own benefit. " s 1^ 1! ! •« ' ' •a m -IN lli « l:\ 632 ADDENDA. APPENDIX. APPENDIX , N°. 1 . (otiy of a Letter from Captain John Ross , R. N. , to Captain the Hon. George Elliot j C. B. , dated October 22 , 1833. Portland Hotel , Oct. 22 , 1833. Sir,— The expedition from which I am now returned, having been im- dertaken in 1829, at my own expense, I necessarily came under certain en(;agements with the crew, which according to my expectation at the time, might be likely to terminate in fifteen months, and in that case I should have been enabled to fulfil those engagements ; but as the absence of the men has been protracted to four years and a half, the claims upon me have greatly increased, whileby^theloss of my vessel the means of dischar- ging them has been much diminished. In venturing to request you will submit my case to the Lords Commis- sioners of the Admiralty, I feel assured that the public nature of the under- taking, and the unparalleled sufferings which have attended it, will bring their Lordships to the consideration of the circumstances I have stated, w ith every disposition to afford me the means of discharging obligations of so sacred a character. It is true that according to law, the men may not be able to compel the r)ayment of their wages after October, 1831, when all hopes of saving the vessel led to her abandonment; but a sense of what is due to my character as an officer of the navy, and a feeling of what is due to the men, whose constancy was never shaken under the most ap'palling prospects, and to whose fidelity and obedience I owe so much, I should be ashamed of myself if I could for a moment entertain a thought of any subterfuge, whereby I might evade the payment of their well-earned wage? ; I am anxious, how- ever, with ray slender means, to appeal to their Lorships in the first instance, in the confident persuasion, that an undertaking so entirely of a naval na- ture, will receive their countenance and support, and that under their Lordships' recommendation, His Majesty's Government will be pleased to ADDENDA. d'iS consider the voyage as so entirely directed to public objects, as fairly to claim, under the circumstances I have described, that the payment of the officers and men should become a public cliar|!;e. As the men have most of them arrived in town, and wait the adjustment of their claims, I need scarcely add, that it is very desirable that I should, with as little delay as possible, receive an intimation of their Lordships* decision upon this application. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient Servant, (Signed) JOHN ROSS, Capl. R. >. APPENDIX, N". 2. CojJiy of a Letter from Mr. Barrow to Captain John Ross, R. A ., dated Admiralty, October 25, 1833. I Admiralty, Oct. 25, 1833. Sir,— I have received and laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your letter, dated on board the Isabella, of Hull, in Baffin's Bay, in September last, and I am commanded to express their Lordships' satis- faction at the providential diliverance of yourself and companions from a perilous situation, unequalled in the records of navi{;ation, and their con- {i^ratulations at your safe return. I am, etc. (Signed) J. BARROW. APPENDIX, N». 3. t , lU Copy of a Letter from Caiptain John Rosa, R. N,, to Mr. Barrow, dated October 1%, 1833. .h klna- Itheir led to Portland Hotel, Oct. 26, 1833. Sir,— In (Consequence of a verbal communication with Sir Thomas Hardy, I have the honour to transmit for the consideration of the Lords Commis- sioners of the Admiralty, a List (see No. 5 ) of the officers and men employed 25.. wA ii.*> i mi . t A34 ADDENDA. on tlie Inle exp«ilitioi) to tlie Arctic Seas, sliowintf the pay due to each on the principle that I should have felt it my duty to act upon towards then], had thedischar(i;o of (iiose claims rested with myself, instead of beii: , taken up by Iheir Lordshi|»s, on thei^rounds of the public nature of the service to which the object of the expedition was directed ; and I have reason to know (hat the officers and men will consider themselves fully recompensed by the proposed scale of pay. I trust I may be allowed to take this opportunity to express for myself and for every person under my command, the deep sensi; we have of the kind protection so cheerfully extended to us by their Lordships. I am, etc. {Signed) JOHN ROSS, Capt. R. N. APPENDIX, N". i. Copy of a Letter from Mr. Barrow to Captain John Ross, l(. A., datc<{ October 28, 1833. Admiralty, Oct. 28, 1833. Sir, - 1 have received and laid before my Lords Conunissioners of the Ad- miralty your letter of the 2Clh instant, transmitting a list of the officers and men employed on your late expedition to the Arctic Seas, show ing the amount of pay due to each, according to the scale by which you would have felt yourself bound to remunerate them foi* their services, and 1 am commanded by their Lordships to acquaint you in reply, that although these men have no claim on His Majesty's Government, inasmuch as the expedi- tion was not sent out by the Board of Admiralty, yet, in consideration of its having been undertaken for the benefit of science, of the sufferings these men Iiave undergone, the perilous situation in which they were placed for so long protracted a period, and their uniform good conduct under circum- stances the most trying to which British seamen were perhaps ever exposed; and their Lordships being moreover satisfied of your utter inability to fulfil the engagements entered into by you, and of the destitute state in which these people have providentially arrived in their native country, have been induced 'under such peculiar circumstances from a feeling of humanity, immediately to relieve you from your engagement, and them from pressing necessity, rather than wait till Parliament shall be assembled, to w hich it is intended to submit the case; their Lordships have therefore directed the ADDENDA. a3u AroounlaiU-Geiieral of tho Navy lo advance to you Ihe sum of 4r)80/. 12^. or/., as tlie auiouiit wliicli by your Hlalcnifnt you fnt lo pay to llic ixtkous tlioifiii named; lioin caili of wlioin on niakint; llirin payinciils, you will lakr a Klainpiul receipt as a \outiier in full of all (leinaiidsHu'y may respectively have upon you. I am, etc. {Siyncd) .1. BAllROW. AP1»KNU1X, N". !). f.ist of the \amcs and Sums of Money paid to the Crew of the Disco- rerr Ship I ivtory, Captain John Ross, R. N.j by Admiralty Ordei\ October '1^, 1833. NAMES. QIJALlTlIiS. SUMS. REMARKS. /. s.d. GcorRc M'Diarmid. Surgeon. 818 185 Promoted to Surgeon R. N. VNilliani Liuht. Steward. 172 14 8 ISot reconmiended. riioma-s iilauky. Male. 345 9 4 An appointment in the mer- chant service. Richard Wall. Seaman. 171 1() Ditto in the Dock Yard. Anthony Buck. Ditto. 127 9 Lost his eye-sight. Allan M'lnncs. Second Ungineer. 109 18 8 Ketnrn(;d to his friends. James Marsiin. Armourer. 3(5 18 8 Died on the voyage. John Park. Seaman. 12G 17 Made Gunner R. M. Joseph Curtis. Ditto. li>5 17 Ditto. John Wood. Ditto. 125 7 Returned to his friends. Ilobcrt Shrccve. Carpenter's Mate. 166 9 4 Ditto. Ilonry Ayre. Cook. 165 2 8 Died soon after his rctuin. ThomasAberncthy. Mate. 329 14 8 Propioted to gunner of the Soulliampton. Chimham Thomas. Carpenter. 296 10 8 Died on the voyage. George Taylor. Mate. 329 9 4 Returned to his family. Alexander Urunton. First Engineer. 617 15 Ditto. Barney Lachey. Landman. 121 15 Coast Guard Service. David Wood. Seaman. 121 11 Returned to his friends. James Dixon. Landman. 89 8 Died on the voyage. George Baxter- . - — -. , Dito. 121 11 Returned to his friends. 4580 12 3 • ! '■] I. Captain Ross has produced receipts for the payment of all above sums except two (James Marslin and James Dixon, dead), whose wages have Utf iVid ADDENDA. b(>eii repaid in(o the linnds of the Treasurer. The represcrilativeo of .laiiicK Marslin have made a claim for llie arrears due, but it is still under coiixi- deralioii. {Signed) J.T. BRKiGS. Trantilution of the Esquimaux Hymn, page Si3. 01« 01 IV KING. rune. — \a;llunakau tokovihsiwn. The I I. Make many, Father, the days of the kinp ; make steadfast all his doinys, preserving him on high; hear our prayers, and be gracious to our king. II. Let truth ever be the ornament of thine anointed, and let him every where show mildness as thou. Oh, hear our prayers, and be gracious (o our king. FINIS. CONTENTS II'' CHAPTFR I. The Project of the Expedition ami its Outfit , p. I. CHAPTER II. Leave the River — Detention at the Isle of Man — Accident to the Engi- neer — Landing at Port Logan — Arrival in Loch Ryan — Meeting of the John Tender , p. 6. CHAPTER III. Leave Loch Ryan — Gale of Wind off Ireland and Loss of Ihe Fore Topmast — First Sight of the Iceblinks — Entrance of Davis's Straits , p. 21. CHAPTER IV. Off Cape Farewell— First Iceberg seen— Abreast of BaaFs River— Sight of Sukkerlop— Land and Islands near Wideford seen- A Codbank discover- ed— Mountain called Old Woman's Hood— Arrival at an Anchorage, p. 30. CHAPTER V. Visit of the Danish Governor of the Settlement at Holsteinborg— Residence there and Purchase of Stores from the Wreck of the Rookwood— Depar- ture from Holsteinborg, p. 41. CHAPTER VI. Disco Island- Enter on the First of August — Reach our farthest intended Point north— Steer for Lancaster Sound — Enter the Sound— Remarks on the former Discovery of this Spot , p. 54. CHAPTER VII. Progress down Lancaster Sound — Sight of Catharine and Elizabeth Moun- tains— Pass Cape York and steer for Prince Regent's Inlet — Cape Elwin and Elwin Bay— The Compasses cease to traverse— Discover Adelaide Bay Approach to Fury Beach— First Sight of the Tent Poles left at the time of —the Wreck— The Victory moored, p. 64. \\ !'! I .h I III ,.^ •m 538 COiMENTS. CHAPTER VIII. Examinalion of the Fury'sSlorPS—Emhatkalion of those which we intend- ed to take— Depaitiire and Progress down this Sliore— Several new Dis- coveries made and named— Ohstrucled hy liie Ice, and moored, p. 73. CHAPTER IX. Attempts to work along Shore — Discovery of Port Logan— Land there- Traces of Esquimaux— Lahouring among the Ice— Discovery of Ehzaheth Harbour, p. 85. CHAPTER X. Attempt to quit EliZcihelh Harbour — Slow Progress along Shore — Critical Position of the Ship among the Ice, and Escape through Perilous Passage — Discovery of Eclipse Harbour— Farther Discoveries— Cape St. Catherine and Lax Harbour, p. 97. CHAPTER XI. A heavy Gale : Succession of Tempestuous Weather, with Snow— Partial clearing of the Ice, and extrication from it- Discover the Island of An- drew Ross, Cape Margaret, Best Harbour, and Martin Islands — A new Bay — End of September — General Remarks on the progress of the Ship and the mode of navigating among Ice, p. 107. CHAPTER XII. Remarks on the present condition of the Ship, and preparations to reduce the encumbrance of the Engine — Unrigging of the Ship— A successful Bear Hunt— Ascertain that we are truly frozen in for the Winter— A Pow- der Magazine erected on shore — Provisions examined — The Guns and parts of the Engine hoisted out, p. 134. CHAPTER XIII. Remarks on the actual Temperature and on that of Sensation— Proceed in lightening the Ship — The Engine finally landed, and the Krusenstern se- cured—Roofing of the Ship completed— Remarks on the Temperature - Abolition of the use of Spirits on Board— Contrivances for Warming and Ventilating the Vapour between Decks— Description of the several ar- rangements made for Wintering , as relating both to the Ship and the Crew, p. 134. CHAPTER XIV. The Month commences Stormy and Cold— Improvement in its progress- Remarks on the Thermometer and Barometer— Occurrence of a splendid Aurora Borealis— Summary of the Month, p. 149. Y-gu n' ;eed in ern se- ure — g and al ar- nd I he Iress— llendid CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. 539 Repealed occurrence of Aurora IJorcalis—Cliristmas-day— Summary of the Month— Remarks at the termination of the Year 1829, p. 157. CHAPTER XVI. Commencement of the Year 1830 — First meeting with Ihe Esquimaux on this Coast- Description of Iheir Village, and of their Society and Manners —They are entertained on Board - Communicate some Geographical In- formation, and promise more, p. 167. CHAPTER XVII. Receive more Getfgraphical Information from one of the Natives called Ikmallik — Continue our Communications with them — Pure Mercury freezes at length , at minus o9»— The first Sunrise of the Year— Death of the Armourer —End of the Month, and Summary, p. 180. CHAPTER XVIII. Pilfering on the pari of the Natives — The first fall ofSnowof this Year— Nauve Dance -Summary of the Month of February, p. 194. CHAPTER XIX. Purchase of Dogs from the Natives— Commander Ross departs on an Expe- dition to the Native Huts, for information— Process of building Snow Huts — Summary of the Month of March, p. 201. CHAPTER XX. Proceedings to the Tenth of April — Journey and Narrative of Commander Ross, p. 210. CHAPTER XXI. Narrative of Commander Ross, p. 212. CHAPTER XXII. Proceedings in the Ship, and with Ihe Natives, p. 223. CHAPTER XXIII. Commander Ross's Second Journey and Narrative, p. 227. CHAPTER XXIV. Departure of Commander Ross on a Third Expedition — Threatening of a Rui>lure with the Natives — Commander Ross's Return, p. 232. CHAPTER XXV. Narrative of Commander Ross, p. 235. I ii « '\: ) U .i .: "l \i h I •■; »■, I A-m «40 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. Repelilion of heavy Snow — Another Expedilion by Commander Ross — Another Expedition under my own charge — Summary of the Month of April, p. 260. CHAPTER XXVII. Expedition commenced — Narralive of our Journey — Return to the Ship — Observations made to obtain the difference of the Elevation of the East- ern and Western Seas — The Dip of the Needle, and intensity of Magne- tic Force, p. 266. CHAPTER XXVIII. Proceedings in the Ship from the First of June — Commander Ross's Re- turn, p. 277. CHAPTER XXIX. Commander Ross's Narrative, p. 280. CHAPTER XXX. Continuation of the Journal — Summary of the Month, p. 305. CHAPTER XXXI. An Expedition to Fish for the supply of Fish for the Crew, undertaken by Myself and Party — Narrative and Return, p. 310. CHAPTER XXXII. Journal of the Month of July — Summary of the Month ~ Transactions du- ring August, and its Summary, p. 318. CHAPTER XXXIII. * Warping out. Unloading, and final Escape from our Harbour — Ineffectual Movements among the Ice — Become fixed ip the Attempt to find a new Harbour for the Winter— Summary of September, p. 327. CHAPTER XXXIV. Labour in Cutting through the Ice — Become fixed for the Winter— Summary of the Month, p. 334. CHAPTER XXXV. Transactions in November— Summary of that Month— Proceedings in De- cember, with a Summary, p. 340. CHAPTER XXXVI. Transactions on Board the Ship in January, 1831— Summary of that Month. February : with its Summary. March : its Summary, p. 335. .1 ' 1 I CONTENTS. 641 V? CHAPTER XXXVII. April— An Expedition undertaken— Account of tliis Journey— Summary of the Month, p. 362. CHAPTER XXXVIII. May— Commander Rosses Journey, p. 369. CHAPTER XXXIX. Narrative of Commander Ross, p. 370. CHAPTER XL. Journal of May — A Journey in company with the Natives, p. 375. CHAPTER XLI. Transactions in June— Return of Commander Ross from his Expodidon. p. 385. CHAPTER XLII. Commander Ross's Narrative— His Journey for ascertaining the Place of tht^ North Magnetic Pole — Observations for the Purpose of assigninff hs Place, and Deductions from those, p. 390. CHAPTER XLIII. Remarks on the Assignment of the Magnetic Pole, p. 404. CHAPTER XLIV. Transactions duringtheremainder of June— The Journal and the Suinuiary of July, p. 407 CHAPTER XLV. Proceedings in July, August, and September, with the Summaries of those respective Months, p. 410. ** CHAPTER XLVI. Journal of August— The Victory moved out of her Harbour— Attempts to proceed along the Shore— The Ship forced by the Ice into another Har- bour—Summary of the Month— Journal of September, and its Summary, p. 418. ^j. CHAPTER XLVII. Journal of October— Tlie Journals of November and December, and the end of the Year, p. 434. CHAPTER XLVIII. ^^ The Journals of January, February, and March, p. 447. CHAPTER XLIX. April — Commence the operation of carrying forward Boats, Sledges, and 26. f^ w ii I ^ t 1. Nl *& "W 642 CONTENTS. ^ Provisions, with the view of abandoning (he Ship — May — Continua- tion of the same work — The Ship is abnndoned, p. 454. M CHAPTER L. June — Our Journey with the Sledcfes and Boats — Arrival at Fury Beach — Transaclions and Detentions during July, p. 465. CHAPTER LI. August — Departure from Fury Beach in the Boats — Detention and Dif- ficulties on the Coast— Summary of August— Transactions in September — Baffled in our attempts to proceed — Return towards Fury Beach — Summary of September, p. 471 . CHAPTER LII. Attempt to proceed in the Boats — Obstructions by the Ice — Proposal to return to Fury Beach — Renew our Attempt — Put ashore near Bally Bay — Land the Stores —Summary of August —Abandonment of the Mineral Specimens, p. 477. CHAPTER LIII. Continuation of our Travelling southward in October— Return to Fury Beach — Establish ourselves at Somerset House for the Winter — Summary of this Month — Journal and Summary of November and December, p. 486. CHAPTER LIV. The Journals of January, February, and March, with their respective Sum- maries — Death and Funeral of the Carpenter, p. 494. CHAPTER LV. April : the Journal and Summary — May : the commencement of the Jour- neys Intended for the future Expedition — June : the continuance of these ^ advancing Jfourneys — July : the Abandonment of the Winter House, and Arrival at the Boats — Summary, p. 500. CHAPTER LVI. k^jQji J»t3atty ^aj — The Ice breaks — Departure in the ih-theEartlPh 'Coast of Prince Regent's Inlet — Meet with the Fare received on Board, p. 512. CHAPTER LVII. Proceedings on Board of the Isabella — Survey of Ihe Coast — Departure - Arriva^sifeKttU^ aad in London, p. 519. Addenda, p. 522. AppEnoix, p. 532. « . EPID OF THE COWTEKTS. ^^= > -^ > c V? ^ > N!l !i ^ « 3 •^ • ^ ^ N s 'J V s ^ 1 N II 1 i> <;-^. 5 ■X. X .{"- "" y. 'ji u '< •«4 y< H OS •^ u u d ^ o ' ^^ t ^ «»^ =a ' •^ H >^ Cd M ;^ < 1 j 1 1 -1 c: f^ir..v^j^ ■"■■ ) -:. s ^ V «• ,'':«, ^ -^ y. - j'"? ^N "v^-^ \ j -"-•^- . _>v,."^ c t- •^ !<■ / \ ■?* \D. n/<^> .-I. 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