^^-v ^.^^' IMAGE EVALUATrON TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 |5o "^^ MBB ijj 1^ 1122 ^ li£ 12.0 u I WUu U III 1.6 V5 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 ^716) 872-4503 t/.A ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Coliection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical it/licroreproductions / Inatitut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original ^opy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibllographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which mpy significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D n n n D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou peliiculde I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reii6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intdrieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans ie texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires: L'Institut a microfilm^ ie meilleur exemplaire qu'll lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exempfaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont Indiqu^s ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur n Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6P3 et/ou peliicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6coior6es, tachetdes ou piqu^ D D This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filrn^ au taux de reduction indiqu^ ci-dessous. Pages d6coior6es, tachetdes ou piquies Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgale de i'impression Includes supplementary materia Comprend du materiel suppldmentaire I I Pages detached/ r~7| Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ n Includes supplementary material/ C( Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 fiim^es d nouveau de faqon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. 10X MX 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X laire I details lues du t modifier iger une 8 filmage The copy filmed here has bean reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada The imeges appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grice it la ginArositA de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6t4 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettetA de Texempiaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. / udes Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the tirst page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Lei exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est ImprimAe sont filmAs en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^(meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la derniire image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". lire Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, pianches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmto A des tnu^ de riduction diff brents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul ciichd, il est film6 A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ntcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. by errata led to 9nt me pelure, a? on & 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 I , CANADA PUBLIC ARCHIVES ARCHIVES PUBLIQUES Gift of OfFert par Gol. J^g^-Birch, ,_ -Qlney^ Rucks ♦ , England. AN ARCTIC BOAT-JOURNEY LONDON PBINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NBW-BTBBliT 8QUABE EDI EI( AN ARCTIC BOAT-JOUMEY IN THE AUTUMN OF 1854 BY ISAAC I. HAYES SCBGEON OF THE SECOND GBIXITBLL EXPEDITION EDITED, WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES, BY DR. NORTON SHAW LONDON RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET IJublis^er hx (DrMnnrg to '§tx Pajcstg 1860 f,r,S sbi y (.3^6 7 I l^EDICATE this book to the COMPANIONS who shared with me the fortunes which it records I- I. HATES 1 ir b A te n( di bi wi at cli( poi att tha thr rep exj eve I .M scri imn abJj PREFAC E The readers of the nan-ative of Dr. Kane will re- member that, in the autumn of 1854, eight persons, being a portion of the officers and crew of the brig Advance, then in Rensselaer Harbour, made an at- tempt to reach Upernavik, in North Greenland, the nearest outpost of civilisjition. The party were absent during nearly four months, and they returned to the brig unsuccessful. It was the wish of Dr. Kane to receive from me a written report of the journey ; but as I was disabled at the time of my return, he accepted one from my dictation ; and under the impression that he was thus possessed of all that he required, I gave no further attention to the subject. It subsequently appeared that I was in error ; for when his narrative was going through the press, he informed me that my verbal report was too meagre for his use, and that he had expected a more complete statement of the principal events. Before I could act upon this information, I .was prostrated by fever ; and, as Dr. Kane's manu- script was put into type as fast as prepared, and was immediately stereotyped, the opportunity was unavoid- ably lost to me. A 4 Vlll PREFACE. After the pu))lic.'ition of tlio main narrative of the expedition, my own meniornnda a])pear('(l too insigni- ficant to justify the issue of a separate vohime. My friends and otlier persons represented to me, from time to time, that even minute details of life in a region so remote, ho peculiar, and ro little known as that in which I had passed nearly a third of a year, would not fail to interest the general reader ; but it needed a stronger inducement than .such persuasions to overcome my reluctance to issue a book. Having undertaken to conduct another expedition to- ward the North Pole, as soon .as my countrymen will fur- nish the moderate outfit recjuired for this object, my time and efforts have l)een exclusively devoted to the necessary preliminary measures. My experienced publishers having encouraged me to believe, not only that a some- what exteinU'd report of the incidents of the journey of 1854 would be accej)table to the public, but also that it w^ould probably contribute towards the expenses of my preparations, I have yielded to the temptation offered by their favourable judgment, and their liberal readiness to assume the risk of the press. Beside the foregoing explanation of the motives which have led to the issuing of the following pages, the reader is requested to bear in mind that they contain a record chiefly of personal adventure, the interest of which is dependent, lor the most part upon the strange- ness of the place and circumstances. I. I. H. Pnii^iDELPniA : January 1, 1860. I CUNTENTS. Chap. Pare I. INTRODUCTORY 1 Lcjiving Ni'W York. — Entoring Smith Strait. — Passage lip the Coast. — Entering Renssehier Bay. — Dr. Kane's ]{oat Journey to tlie Nortli. — In "Winter Quartei*s. — Journey of A^r. Wilson and Dr. Hayes into the interior. — The grt it Mir dc Glace. — Preparing for the Winter. — FaliWork. — Jour- ney of Messrs. McGary and Ilonsitll. — Yinter Oc- cupations. — J^reparing for the Sj)rini!; Work. — The Advanee Party. — Disaster. — I.>seue. — Dr. Kane's Journey. — Dr. Hayes' Journey.-— William Morton's Journey. — The open Sea. — The Cruise ended. — Dr. Kane's Attempt to reach Beechy Island. — Baffled by the Ice-pack. — His Return. — The Ad- vance not liberated. — Dr. Kane makes a tinal in- spection of the Ice. — His Announcement to the Officers and Crew. — The Winter closing in. — The Question submitted. — Dr. Kane's Opinion. — Mr. Petersen's Opinions. — Conditions. — Motives. — Fluctuations of Judgment. — Division of the Brig's Company into two equal Parties. — One of them is to attempt a Boat Journey to Upernavik. II. PREPARATION 34 Mr. Petersen chosen Leader and Guide of the Tra- velling Party. — Preliminary Journey. — Character of the Travelling. — Camp at thf Six-mile Ravine. — R< ■ Ml on board. — Equipmenr. — Meeting in the Cabin. — The Pledges. — The Parting. III. THE START 40 Moving along the Ice-foot. — Fairly oif. — Discou- raging Prospect. — Ice, Ice, Ice. — Relief-Party take CONTENTS. Chap. Page leave of us and return to the Brif^. — A Gale. — Its effect upon the ice. — The Boat "Forlorn Hope" — EsquiniaiLX. — Hans after thorn. — The "Ice-foot." — An Incident. — Difficulty in getting Fresh Water. IV. ACR088 THE ICE-FIELDS 48 Taking to the " Floes." — The sledge breaks through. — Cargo damaged. — Spirits damaged. — Retreat of Riley and John. — John returns. — Arrival of a Party fiom the Brig. — The sledge "Faith" sent back. — Shouldering Cargo, — Afloat. — Breaking a Track. — Arrival of another Party from the Brig. — The "Faith" returned. — Protracted Exertion. — The Musk-Ox. — The main Open Water readied. — Camp at Esquimaux Point. — A Breeze. — Shaking out the Sails. V. UNDER SAIL 59 Making four knots. — Stopped by Ice. — Camp ou an Ice-raft. — Shoot ingDu^^ks. — A lead opening. — Rapidity of Ice-movements, — Hasty Departure. — Reaching Life-boat Bay. — Hemmed in by Ice. — In Jeopardy. — Entering a Lead. — Landed in Safety. A^L A GLOOMY NIGHT 65 After the Life-boat. — Transporting the Boat and Cargo over the Ice to Open Water. — Crossing the Channel to Littleton Island. —Blowing a Gale. — Dangerous Landing. — A Duck for Supper. — Look- ing for the "Hope," — John on the Pack — The storm broken. — The "Hope" discovered. — Re- union. VII. HOUNDING CAPE ALEXANDER ... 74 The North Water. — Naming the Boats. — Under weigh. — A stiff Breeze. — A fine View. — The Boats otT the Cape. — The Life-Boat broached to. — Su- therland Islitnd. — A Harbour! — Detained by the Storm. — A Glacier. — View from the Cliffs. VIII. THE FLEET AT SEA 85 Crossing the North Water. — Shrrt-lived Felicity. — The Ice-pack. — Boring the Pack. — View from CONTENTS. xi Chap. an Iceberg. — The "Middle Ice." — Ice X -igation. — The Out-side Passap- and the In-j intermediate steps. LIST OF 1846-47. J 1848-50. I 1848-50. ^ '1848-49. F J848-49. *849-51. N i849. A '|849-50. PJ *iB50~51. Re M Asi .fi ^. n PlC » Int 1850. La< S( INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. XXXlll 'posits tory — 'ffi and Japtiiin S[., and fiftee lar waa edition, a cairn ! it had rgins of it Point i fifteen irt from Hobson leal of im- lents, viz. IS. |N., long. , of Point 1 750 0' N. Ilstance of 1 trace hi» J3T OF ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS SINCE THE DEPARTURE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN IN 1845. 1846-47. North Pole and Magnet ( boats), Hudson Bay Co. -M Exp 1848-50. Plover .... „ Herald .... 1848-50. Nancy Dawson {yacht) 1848-49. Enterprise „ Investigator 1848— i9. Overland, and with boats . 1849-51. North Star . . . . l849. Advice {whaler) . [849-50. Plover, and with boats J50-55. Enterprise . . . . 1850-53. Investigator Direction.* |60. Albert (Lady Franklin's) 1850-51. Resolute . Assistance . Pioneer {steam-tender) Intrepid {steam-tender) Lady Franklin and . Sophia . Dr. John Rae, M.D. . . . N.W. Com. Th. E. L. Moore . . B.S. , Captain Henry Kellett, R.N. . B.S. , Robert Shedden, Esq. . . B.S. . Capt. Sir James Ross, R.N. . N.W. , Capt. E. J. Bird, R.N. . . N.W. , Sir John Richardson, M.D., R.N. and Dr. Rae . . . N.W. . Mr. J. Saunders, master, R.N. . N.W. . Capt. Wm. Penny and Dr. R. A. Goodsir .... N.W. . Com. W. J. S. Pullen, and Lt. W. H. Hooper . . .B.S. . Capt. Richard Collinson, R.N. . B.S. . Capt. Robert LeM.M'Clure,R.N. B.S. . Com. C. C. Forsyth, and Mr. Parker Snow . . . N.W. . Capt. Horatio T. Austin, R.N. . N.W. . Capt. Erasmus Ommanney, R.N. N.W. . Lieut. J. B. Cator . . . N.W. . Lieut. Sherard Osbom . . N.W. ("Capt. Wm. Penny and Dr. Suther- ] land N.W. (.Capt. Alex. Stewart . . . N.W. • N. W.= Wt!st of Greenland ; B. S. = Bering Strait. b XXXIV INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. 1850-61. Folix {yacht) „ Mary {hout) 1850-61. Advance! ami Rescue nell U. 8. Expedition Direction. . Capt. Sir John Ross, R.N. and . Lt. Geo. Phillipps Lieut. Yj. J. Do Haven and Dr. E. ^ . r Lieut. Y. .1 , Grin- I j^ j^ ^^°" \Mr.S.r.( ano Griffin 1860-53. Plover 1850-62 1851. 1851-52. 1862. . Com. Rochfort Maguiro Overland, and with boats; Hudso' Bay Co. . . Dr. J. Rae Daedalus .... Capt. G. G. Wellesley R.N. Albert (Lady Franklin's) . Capt. Wm. Kennedy with Lieut. Ren6 Bellot ... N.W. N.W. N.W. ti B.S. N.W B.S. Isabel (Lady Franklin's Com. E. A. Inglefield with Dr. P. . . C. Sutherland steam-yacht) , 1852-64. Assistance . , „ Resolute „ Pioneer {steam-tender) „ Intrepid {steam-tender) „ North Star . Capt. Sir E. Belcher, R.N. Capt. H. Kellett, R.N. Com. Sherard Osbom . Com. F. L. M'Clintock . N.W N.W N.\Y N.T\- N.T^' 1853. 1854. 1853-55. 1853. 1853. 1854. 1854. 1854. Araphitrite . Boats Com. W. J. S. Pullen with Lt. R. Bellot . . . . Capt. C. Frederick, R.N. . Dr. E. M'Cormick, R.N. . Advance, (GrinneU and Pea- body's Exp.) and . . Dr. E. K. Kane . Overland, and in boats Diligence . . . . Rattlesnake Breadalbane Overland, and in boats, Hud- son Bay Co. Exp. . Phoenix . . . . Dr. J. J. Hayes . Lieut. J. E. EUiott . Com. Henry Trollope . Mr. W. H. Fawckner R.N. . Dr. J. Rae {Franklin Relics) * Capt. E. A. Inglefield N."\V B.S. N.V B.? NT * Dr. R. Kinp, M.D., the companion of Sir Geo. Back during his hazardous voyage doi Back's Great Fish River, from a very early period, maintained the necessity for a search dc that river. 1854. 1855. 1856. INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. XXXV Direction. il.N. and . N.W. ndDr.E. • • N.W. • • II . B.S • • N.W [I.N. B.S, .V. rith Lieut. V N.W rith Dr. P N.W 1 R.N.. . N.W .'i . N.AV j . N."\\' c . N.^V with Lt. B ■ N. . . B.S % Direction. 1864. Talbot . . . . Lt. R. Jenkins .... N.W. 1855. Vincennes, U. S. Exp. . Com. Cadwiiluder Ringgold. . B.S. 1855. ReK-aso and Arctic, U. S. Exp Capt. H. J. Hartstene, U. S. N. . N.W. 1855. Overland, and in canoes, McB.srs. AnderBon and Stewart IIud.son Bay Co. Exp. . {Franklin Relics) . . N.W. 1857-59. Fox (Lady Franklin's Stea^n- Capt. F. L. M'CHntock, R.N. Capt. yacht) .... Allen W. Young, Lieut. W. R. IIo>)Hon, Dr. D. Walker, and Mr. Carl Petersen, In- terpreter {Fra7iMin Relics) . N.W. . N.T\' N.V . . B.? |R.N. . . NT j Izardous voyage doi ^ity for a search do» b 2 ! ! II I'i I XXX VI INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. LIST OF ARCTIC WORKS PUBLISHED SrXCE THE DEPAKTURE OF THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITIOX. Voyages of Discovery and Research within the Arctic Regions, from the year 1818 to the present time. By Sir John Barrow, Bart. Svo. 1846. London. Observations on the work entitled, "Voyages, &c. By Sir John Barrow." By Sir John Ross, 8vo. 1846. Edinburgh and London. On the Best Means of reaching the Pole. By Admiral F. Wranoell. 1847. Also Notes on the above. By Sir John Barrow, Journal ofthe Royal Geographical Society, vol. xviii. 8vo. 1848. London. Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea, 1846 and 1847. By John Rae. Svo. 1860. London. Arctic Expeditions, 1848. Parliamentary Paper, No. 264. London. Arctic Expeditions, 1849. Parliamentary Papers, Nos. 188, 188ii., 387. and 497. London. An Arctic Voyage to Baffin Bay and Lancaster Sound, in search of Friends with Sir John Franklin, in 1849. By Robert A. Goodsib. Svo. 1850. London. Beitrag zur Kenntniss der Orographischen und Geognostischen Be- echaiFenheit der Nord-Westkiiste Amerikas, mit den anliegenden Inseln. By Dr. C. Grewingk. Maps, Svo. 1850, St. Petersburg. Narrative of Arctic Discovery. By J. J. Shillinglaw^. Map. Svo. 1850. London. The Franklin Expedition; or, Considerations on Measures for the Discovery of our absent Adventurers in the Arctic Regions. By Rev. "W. Scoresby. Svo. 1850. London. Labrador-Eskimo and English Vocabulary, for the use of the Arctic ;ditiok. 5ns, from 3W, Bart. Sir John l1 London. ^KANGELL. r, Journal London. Sea, 1846 London. |88, 188ii., searcb. of I. GOODSIB. Ischen Be- liliegenden [Petersburg. lap. 8vo. es for the kions. By Ithe Arctic INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. XXXVll Expeilition. Compiled by Capt. Wasuinoton, R.N. 12mo. 1850. . L<:)ndon. Arctic Searchinfj Expedition. Journal of a Boat Voyage in search of Sir John Franklin in 1848. With an Ai)pendix by Sir John KicHAUUiiox, C.l}., F.R.S. 2 vols. ^lap, 8vo. 1851. Loudon, Journey from Great Bear Lake to WoUaston Land. By Dr. Joux Kae. Journal Il.G.S. vol. xxii. 18y2. London. Recent Explorations alonp; the South and East Coast of Victoria Land. By Dr. John Rae. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxii. 1852. Lonilon. Arctic Expedition, 1850. Blue Book.Nos. 107. 397. Arctic Expedition, 1851. Blue Book, Report of Committee. Arctic Expedition, 1851. Blue Book, No. 97. Arctic Expedition, 1851. Blue Book, Additional Papers. Voyage of the Prince Albert, in search of Sir John Franklin. By W. P. Snow. 8vo. 1851. Loudon. Sir John Franklin and the Arctic Regions. By P. L. Simmonds. 12mo. 1851. London. Stray Leaves from an Arctic Journal ; or Eighteen Months in the Polar Regions. By Lieut. S. Osbobn, R.N. 8vo. 1851. London. The Search for Sir John Franklin ; a Lecture. By C. R. Weld. 8vo. 1851. London. Report on the Return of Lady Franklin's Vessel, the Prince Albert. 8vo. 1852, London. Greenland Eskimo and English Vocabulary. Compiled by Capt. John Washington, R.N. 12mo. 1853. London. Report on the Return of Lady Franklin's Vessel, the Prince Albert, under the command of IVIr. Wm, Kennedy, from the Arctic Regions. With Maps. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxiii. 1853. London. A Short Narrative of the Second Voyage of the Prince Albert ; in search of Sir John Franklin. By Wm. Kennedy. 8vo. 1853. London. Journal d'un Voyage aux Mers Polaires, ex6cut6 par Lieut, de b3 I i l! 'i^ii I XXX VIU INTBODUCTORY NOTICE. Vaisseau de la Marine Fran9aise, J. R. Bellot, a la Recherche de Sir John Franklin, en 1851 et 62. Par M. Juijen Lemeb. 8vo. 1854. Paris. Sir John Franklin ; tho Sea of Spitzbergen and Whale Fisheries in the i^jctic Regions. By Augustus Petebmann, F.R.G.S. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxiii. 1853. London. Greenland. De Danske Handelsdistricter i Nordgronland, &c. By H. Rink, and Om den geographiske Beskaffenhed of de Danske Handelsdistrikter i Norgrondland, &c. By H. Rink, M.D. Map. 1852. Copenhagen. Journal of a Voyage in Baffin Bay and Barrow Strait, in the years 1850-51. Performed by H.M.S. Lady Franklin and Sophia, under the command of Capt. W. Penny, in search of the Missing Crews of H.M.S. Erebus and Terror, &c. By P. C. Sutherland, M.D. F.R.G.S. 2 vols. Maps 8vo. 1852. London. " Grinnell Land." Remarks on the English Maps of Arctic Dib- coveries in 1850-51. By Peter Force. 1852. Washington. Arctic Miscellanies ; Souvenir of the late Polar Search, by the Of- ficers and Seamen of the Expedition. 8vo. 1852. London. Arctic Expeditions, 1852. Blue Book. Further Papers. Arctic Expeditions, Parliamentary Papers. Nos. 248 — 501, and 82. Arctic Regions, 1853. Parliamentary Paper, No. 1013. Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. Herald, 1845 to 1851, under Capt. H. Keilett, R.N., C.B., F.R.G.S. By Berthold Seem.'Lnn, F.R.G.S. 8vo. 1853. London. A Summer Search for Sir John Franklin. By Commander E. A. Inglefield, R.N., F.R.G.S. 8vo. 1853. London. Report on the Return of the Isabel from the Arctic Regions. By Com.iander E. A. Inglefield, R.N., F.R.G.S. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxiii. 1853. London. On the Continental Ice of Greenland, and the Origin of Icebergs in the Arctic Seas. By Dr. H. Rink, of Copenhagen. Communicated by Dr. N. Shaw. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxiii. 1853. London. INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. XXXIX Tche de 1. 8vo. leries in Journal &c. By Danske .D. Map. the years Sophia, ; Missing HEBLAND, •ctic Dis- m. y the Of- on. ,, and 82. ;i, under 5EEMANN» ler E. A. Begions. ml B.G.S. ^ebergs in lunicated Idon. Narrative of a Boat Expedition up "Wellington Channel, 1852, under the Command of Dr. R. M'Cormick, R.N., M.D., in search of Sir John Franklin. Folio. 1854. London. The Arctic Despatches, containing an Account of the Discovery of the North-West Passage. 8vo. Map. Reprinted from the "Nau- tical Magazine." 1854. London. Ten Months among the Tents of the Tuski. By Lt. W. H. Hoopeb, R.N. Map. 8vo. 1853. London. Memoirs of Lieut. Joseph Ren6 Bellot. With Journal of a Voyage in the Polar Seas in search of Sir John Franklin. 2 vols. 8vo. 1855. London. Access to an " Open Polar Sea," in connection with the Search after Sir John Franklin and his Companions. By E. Kane, M.D. Map. 8vo. 1853. New York. Franklin's Footsteps ; a Sketch of Greenland, along the Shores of which his Expedition passed ; and of the Parry Isles, where the last traces of it were found. By C. R. Mark ham, F.R.Gr.S. 12mo« 1853. On the Tide and Currents in the Polar Seas. John Mubbay. Svo. 1854. London. Discovery of the North- West Passage. By Com. R. M'Cluee, R.N. F.R.G.S. of H.M.S. Investigator. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxiv. 1854. London. Arctic Papers, 1854. Letter from Lady Franklin to the Admiralty No. 129. Arctic Explorations ; with Information respecting Sir J. Franklin's Missing Party. By Dr. John Rae, F.R.G.S. 1854. Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. xxv. 1855. London. England ivad Russia. Voyages of John Tradescant the Elder, Sir Hugh Willoughby, Rd. Chancellor, Nelson, and others. By Dr. J. Hamel. Translated by J. S. Leigh, F.R.G.S. 8vo. 1854. London. United States Grinnell Expedition, in search of Sir John Franklin. xl INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. By Elisha Kent Kajje, M.D., U.S.N. 8vo. N. York. 1854. London and Descent of Back's Great Fish Kiver, by Mb. Jas. Anderson, 1855. Journal of Royal Geographical Society, vol. xxvi. 8vo. 1856. London. The Eventful Voyage of H.M.S. Resolute in the Arctic Regions, in search of Sir J. Franklin, &c., from 1852 to 1854. By F. M'DouGALL. 8vo. 1857. London. Arctic Expedition, 1854. Blue Book, No. 171. Arctic Papers relative to recent Arctic Expeditions, 1854. Blue Book. Le Scoperte Artiche. T.y the Count Francisco Miniscalchi Ebizzo. 8vo. Maps. 1855. Venice. Rear- Admiral Sir John Franklin. A Narrative of the Circumstances and Causes which led to the Failure of the Searching Expeditions sent by the Government, &c. By Rear- Admiral Sir John Ross. 8vo. 1855. London. The Franklin Expedition from first to last. By Richard King, M.D. Sm. 8vo. 1855. London. The last of the Arctic Voyages. By Sir Edwaed Belchee, R.N., F,R.G.S. &c., 2 vols. 8vo. 1855. London. Arctic Explorations in 1853-4-5. By Elisha Kent Kakb, M.D. U.S.N. 2 vols. 8vo. 1856. Philadelphia. Voyages and Discoveries in the Arctic Regions. F. Mayne, 8vo. 1855. London. Further Papers relative to recent Arctic Expeditions. Blue Book, 1855. Account of the Proceedings of H.M.S. Enterprise, from Behring Strait to Cambridge Bay. By Captain Richard Collinson, R.N., C.B., F.R.G.S. In Journal R.G.S., vol. xxv. 1855. London. Report of the Expedition in Search of Sir John Franklin, during the years 1853-4-5, with a Chart. By E. K. Kane, M.D., U.S.N. In Journal R.G.S., vol. xxvi. 1856. London. Report of Committee on Arctic Expedition. Parliamentary Papers. No. 409. i Vr INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. xli on and •, 1855. jondon. ions, in By F. le Book. Ebizzo. nstances peditions IN Eoss. ID King, B, B.N., ■E, M.D. n:b, 8vo. e Book, kng Strait [n., C.B., 1, during |., U.S.N. Papers. I I Further Papers relative to recent Arctic Expeditions, 1856. Par- liamentary Papers. Discovery of the North-West Passage, by Captain R. M'Clure, F.R.G.S. in H.M.S. Investigator, 1850-1-2-3-4. By Captain S. OsBORN, R.N., C.B. F.R.G.S. 8vo. 1857. London. Personal Narrative of the Discovery of the North-West Passage, while in search of the Expedition under Sir John Franklin. By Alex. Aemsthong, M.D., R.N., F.R.G.S. 8vo. 1857. London. Des dernieres Expeditions faites a la Recherche de Sir John Franklin, et de la D^couverte d'un Passage par Mer de I'Oc^an Atlantique a 1' Ocean Pacifique. Par M. de la Roquette. Pam- phlet. 1856. Paris. On the Open Polar Sea. By R. White, Esq., F.R.G.S. Proceedings E.G.S., vol. i. 1856. London. Notes on the late Arctic Expeditions, By Capt. S. Osborn, R.N. F.R.O.S. Proceedings R.G.S., vol. i. 1856. Lonc^on. On Dr. H. Rink's Remarks on Dr. Kane's Work. By Prof. A. D. Bache. Proceedings R.Gr.S. vol. ii. 1857-8. London. Arctic Enterprise; a Poem by C. H. Abrahall, 8vo. 1856. London. "Voyages and Travels of Dr. Rae in the Arctic Regions. A Letter to Sir H. Drj'den, Bart. 8vo. 1856. London. Arctic Rewards and their Claimants. Pamphlet, 8vo. 1856, London. The Great Arctic Mystery. By *IAOI 2TMBOTAETOMENOI. Pam- phlet, 8vo. 1856. London. Erindringer fra Polar-Landene, 1850-55. Af Carl Petersen. 1857. Copenhagen. Letter to Sir R. I. Murchison, on Dr. Kane's late Expedition. By J. J. Hayes, Esq. Proceedings R.G.S. vol, 1855-9, London. Probable Course pursued by Sir John Franklin's Expedition. By A. G. FiNDLAY, F.R,G.S. Maps. Journal R,G,S., vol. xxvi. 1856. London, Reflections on the Mysterious Fate of Sir John Franklin, By James Parsons. Map. 8vo. 1857. London. xlii INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. 1 'I mm I liliiiii Ml An Earnest Appeal to the British Public on the behalf of the Missing Expedition. By Lieut. B. Pim, E.N., F.K.G.S. Pam- phlet. 1857. London. The Arctic Kegions : a Narrative of British Enterprise to discover the North-West Passage. By P. L. Simmonds. 1857. London and New York. A Letter to Viscount Palmerston, K.G., from Lady Feanklin ; with Appendix and Chart. 8vo. 1857. London. The North- West Passage, and the Plans for the Search of Sir John Franklin. A Keview. By John Brown, F.K.G.S., F.R.S.N.A. Copenhagen. 8vo. 1858. London. Arctic Discovery. In Nautical Magazine. Captain A. B. Becheb. R.N. F.R.G.S. 1859. London. On the supposed Discovery, by Dr. E. K. Kane, U.S.N., of the North Coast of Greenland, and of an Open Polar Sea, &c., as described in " Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, 1854, 1855," By Dr. Henby Rink, M.D., Inspector in Greenland for the Danish Government. Condensed from the Danish by Dr. N. Shaw. Journal of the Royal Geog. Soc, vol. xxviii. 1859. London. Extracts from Chief-Factor James Anderson's Arctic Journal. Communicated by Sir J. Richardson, M.D. Journal R.G.S. vol. xxvii. 1857. London. • Remarks upon the Amount of Light experienced in high Northern Latitudes during the Absence of the Sun. By Captain Shebard OsBORN, R.N., C.B., F.R.G.S., &c. Journal R.G.S., vol. xxviii. 1858. London. Polar Regions. From the Encycl. Britannica. By Sir J. Richardson, M.D., R.N., F.R.G.S. 1858. Edinburgh. The Discovery of the Fate of Sir John Franklin and his Companions. By Capt. M'Clintock, R.N., LL.D. With Preface by Sir Ro- derick I. MuBCHisoN. 1859. 8vo. London. The same. Proceedings R. G. S., vol. iv. 1860. The Search for Sir John Franklin, (from the Private Journal of an officer of the Fox.) By Captain Allen Young. In CornhiU Mag., 1860. London. INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. 1 • • • Xllll The Franklin Expedition. A Letter of Appeal to the Duke of New- castle. By Dr. K. King, M.D. 1860. London. Career, Last Voyage, and Fate of Captain Sir John Franklin. By Capt. Sherard Osborn, R.N., C.B., F.R.G.S., «&c. 1860. London. La Destin^e de Sir John Franklin devoilee. Par V. A. Malte-Brun. 8vo. 1860. Paris. An Arctic Boat-Journey, in the Autumn of 1854. By J. J. Ha'^^^s, Esq., Surgeon to the second Grinnell Expedition, under Dr. Kane. With Introductory Notice and Notes, by Dr. Norton Skaw, M.D. Bentley, 1860. London. 90 80 REFERENCES. thttwojri Ttfu-k ot'the BoatBarty towai'd Fpcnun-ik, Aiut.l-Sfpt.lH54. Rt*uni Thwkirfthf same hift\' , D^.lf!54 i with doff sU'dift>s ). '^"xiniati' ; t ojf iiittwideti to exhibit the (general system of Ba0in Bny navixfotion . The mrythetn Htnit of '■'. the "Mitldle Ice "is lief \n\iUy found betireeti. lot. ft i \ Tti"!' the Oirc)' Lilnntls ; I- natripators seize the V^|_^, etwHest oppotiitnity to wonfc theif way wrstu/tud, after tvachiiip Capf Jhuiley Difi^s, thiviufh what it ^ te(hjiiniU%' known, as the "Xorth Wata-" It wUL he seen that dxeytbUxytv die prefoiliiu/ current. Li»il'*.'."->W<'- "^ ^^Ohistra I the * ..^•pToith ITimrUt', ^iniaiiilythfrltviiXi Jarr inthr niniin^ ^ .'ti^nevfrcotnf.th^ ■rra«V '.'''*'"'*' ■^\ V^^ w ^ / ^ sau,.h..rx^ r^ 1 "^^Ji'/ifisoa^^;^, ''^LeoftoUI. Sni'Jaiui'S Uos8 \diiteiedl»48 49 N.S(>MJ.RSKT ^ y> *: "ewara^' JjAJU a Slei- V^ •'5'»7^+^ are risrtnt ,innu,dly . by fi smallfleet. »>- Tldt- so covered which Tents I. ■sets en work-it ei-ery , LO N 1 ) Ol i ; it L ( ; i-i A K ! ) BR H'l'h^' i' 7() CO (?(1fil/'T'V>flii/t»»rtu'i'»'A'ni/iA|j'| (11 ART oi' Tin: ii'i'i-,u LIMIT oi' !B A F F II ?>: USAY, lllnsliiitliiii (III iiiCTK natr JornsFx. IN is:.-i. Sttlhfrlami k^.v*^""!!""-"-" Herhritl . •tisnrvtretHiifK. .^^^i^lly dosed. ^•> ^^.^\ »^ 6t vt^l" :\^ '' ■^z ■^^^ Outw"'^!- f/i i>(i »- \ ■• /^y4^ ^$JT,vl^ ^!^lif'»*(>iai-t.>vs<.il» ^ r* \ y ^ /^ I Ttiis tea is tilw^s'S riiori' or Irtx rt'vrrcil with bi\>kfit or hick Ice which . iirflmricni ty winds S: ntr rents u in ci^nstuitt ntovcmnrt .Vfs sets can pntmdly pass it onlv by x/x at m 7C. • \-s\ sets cnn ifetimiUy pass it vntv by S . -» n-.i • J ^ . woHx-tTitJ aloiui its nmrQin _ iisiiia .^ \ P"-^'f^l'"Vi"'^"">J^' >^ every fiiyoraf,!^ onpoit,. t.ity. w^^^ lire *itrted tiniiually -^ '' ''*^+v. by a snuiUileet r* Fondsy^Bqy \ \ \ \ \ a;^ i Ffiirk of the lixiit Pai-t\' ti'n'oftl I'/K'ttxiriA', A Htfuni 'Brick trfthe .suiiu- tiii-rs-, J)ii:W>t i tyith iloif sh-d^ Uticfc ot'DnKarw tow ^_ f7)9u*iild>irk-ofthe£nifhsh XH" .S'ftuvi} and Discovery tit tht' iviuli'tiunis at Hi'iT/iy 1. -<-<-' Hanwu-anl I'vack at' the saine. (Tint^ud n-iifkofthf JiaffinBiiy M'half S'hips to and irxA I'lshiiiif avoiitni.i. i>it\i.-iianal D-iu-h of thf same. \ **» — *- Pi\'\'ailiittj dit'eftjon at' the (freanic (lirrenTs. The »««'*•* ot'thf Discoyiry i" Wtude Ships , Jiiitfti i>n thfMap atv tnot'^y npin\>.vhiititp ; atf i/ir<»n<rig veered around and brought up with her waist against a larger mass, which slipped along her sid(_' ;md dropped us around broadside to the wind. Thus we rod(!, powerless to move but as the elements listed. That Ave were not ground to pieces seemed a wonder. Thump followed thum}-* in quick succession ; bowS; quarter, waist, stem, and stern successively received the sliocks as the brig rose and fell and plunged with the waves. Soon we had run this gauntlet, and then came the hardest trial of all : we wi re rushing upon the solid floe, which was firm as a rock. A huge wave lifted us high in the air, and, as it slipped from under the brig down went her forefoot upon the ice. The shock was terrible ; the masts creaked and shivered ; every j)erson on board expected to see them fly in splinters, but they held firm. Next moment the stern fell off, and we lay grinding against the floe. Then a large field bore d<^"'vn upon us from the windAvard, and the brig was sqTieezed out of the Avater. The crcAv, powerless to help her, sprang upon the ice ; and there she lay high anu dry for several hours. At length the storm abated, the ice re- laxed, and the AdA^ance settled doAA'n into her proper element. A lead haviiig opened toAvard the shore, a Avarp Avas run out, and Ave first liauled under the lee of a grounded berg, then to the land. Worn out Avith con- stant Avork, Ave made fast to the land-ice, the Avatch Avas set, and all hands turned in. The prospect of advancing farther noi'th Avith the brig was noAV very unpromising. Dr. Kane had hoped to reach Avith lier at least Latitude 80° ; and here we Avere w th INTRODUCTORY. 5 ■ the lous with T her Thus istC'd. nder. bows, ■d the h the came ; KoUd Ufted le brig k was person It they ve lay d<^-'vn liieezed p her, hy I'or ice re- proper a warp »e of a h con- ch was le brig Dped to re were compk'tely beset at 78° 40'. All to the north was one unbroken ice-field, crossed by no crack, and with not u drop of water visil)le, except here and there a puddle of melted snow. Along the land, which trended eastward, opened a narrow lead, from twenty to sixty feet in width; which, although clogged with loose, ragged pieces, was, nevertheless, wide enough to admit the vessel. Into this lead she was hauled; and inch by inch, and loot by foot we tracked and warped her along the frozen Avail of the land-ice, for the next five days, making thus about six miles. This was along the southern shore of a deep bay, afterwards called Kensselaer. Being close under the land, we grounded at nearly l'XQyj low tide. The head of the bay was reached on the 27th. Finding here the ice much more broken, we hauled over to the opposite shore, and then commenced again to track ; but the lead was soon found to be completely closed. The winter was now fast approaching ; the youn Tj ice was forming rapidly ; and there was nothing left lor us but to retreat and seek a harbour. Dr. Kane, Avith a boat's crew of six men, put off up the coast to inspect the ice; the remainder of us meanwhile working to get tlie Advance to a place of safety. The sailing-master, Mr Wilson, being sick, and the tAVO mates having accompanied Dr. Kane, the superintendence of the Avork devolved upon Mr. Ohlsen, who Avas ordered to get the A-essel clear of the ice, and then to await the return of our chief. VJ^o Avere foiu* days in making tAvo miles. The " bay ice " Avas, in places, tAvo inches thick ; and, Avith all the poAver Ave could apply Avith capstan and Avindlass, Ave B 3 1 i AN ARCTIC BOXT JOURNEY. . r i:M could not force tliu vessel forward without first breaking a track with poles and hahdsj)ikes. The islands at the head of the bay were at length readied ; but the ice was there found locked against the outer point of Fern Kock, above Avhieh we had passed on our way in ; and it was not until the even- ing of the Cth of September that it became possilile to execute further the commander's instructions. Then a gale set in from the south-east, and in a few hours the ice was driven nearly out of sight. Pi-eparations were at once commenced for n-ettinc: under weiii-h. The watcli was called ; the chck, click, of the capstan was again heard ; the men were sent aloft to shake out tlie foresail. All was ready, and in a lew minutes we should have been off. Then came a cry from the mast- head that Dr. Kane and his party were in sight. They were on the ice a mile or so below Cape Leiper. Im- mediatcily a boat put off for them, and in a couple of liours tluy Avere aboard. This journey had convinced Dr. Kane that it was practical )le to travel over the ice with sledges, and that the search could be thus continued in the spring. Of this there had been not a little doubt at his starting. Mr. Petersen had given it as his decided opinion that, owing to the roughness of the ice, nothing coukl be done with the dogs ; and the prospect certainly looked no more promising for the men. By his journey up the coast, Dr. Kane had decided the question of the propriety of wintering, even in this low latitude. On the following morning, the brig was hauled between the islands, and was moored fast. The ^ I l;i INTRODUCTORY. 7 tempovature fell to \d°. The gale died away, '\llowing the old Hoes to drift back about us ; the young ice cemented them together ; and, by the morning of the 9th of September, we could walk ashore. The Advance was firndy locked up. Now commenced busy preparations for meeting the four months of the winter which was closing upon us. The hold of the vessel was unstowed, juid the stores were carried on sleds over the ice, rbout thirty yards, to Butler Island, and there deposited in a temporary house. The upper deck was covered in with boards. The between-decks were bulkheaded at about twelve feet abaft the foremast ; the cabin and hold were united in one long room, and this was decked and bunked all around. The little stove was retained in the cabin ; the cook-stove was placed amidships ; the men moved aft from the forecastle ; tlie nautical day was changed to the old-fashioned day which commences at midnight ; and, with the A'^'vance thus virtually convt^rted into u house, both as concerned herself and Icr doiiKMitic arrangeuients, we entered upon the wint'cr. M'^.anwhile the work of exjilovation went on. Tlie an"hor had scarcely been dro])ped before Mr. AViison and myself were .^ent to the interior, with the view, mainly, of determining, how far we might rely upon the land to supply us with game. We left the Aressel on the 8th of September, carrying upon our backs oiu' slender equipment. Our only com- panion was the Greenlander, Hans Hendrich, a line little fellow who joined us at Litchenfels, Soutli Green- land ; and who, after serving f lithfuUy the expedition for nearly two years, finally fell in love with a pair of B 4 II '3i^i M:\ Mirii ,«' :i! !ii i ! 1 ' ""'i| H ! t 8 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. black eyes and a fat face, and left us to live with the wild Esquimaux. Our route lay, for two days, over an uneven primi- tive country, from which we emerged upon a table- land of weather-worn greenstr'ne. Over this we travelled for about fifteen miles, when we came again upon the porjihyritic and gneissoid rocks ; and, on the Iburth day, after a laborious travel, we descended into a deep broad valley, which proved to be the bed of a river. This was almost dry, but it bore upon its banks evidences of having recently been a deep and rapid torrc n , which, as it rolled and tumbled over the rocks, was ted, through the many gorges which flanked it, by the melting snow from the mountain sides. Here we spread our buffalo skins upon the stones, and rested for the morrow's work. The morrow found our poor Esquimau unable to travel; and we were in not much better condition. Our route had lain over a very uneven country. The snow of the previous winter having all disappeared, we clambered over the naked rocks ; and as each of us carried upon his shoulders a burden of about thirty pounds' weight, this was no slight task. On the second day there was a light flill of snow, which rendered the rocks slippery and our footing inse- cure, and added greatly to the difficulties of the journey. No evidences of life were seen, save a solitary rabbit and the footmarks of a fox. Before us the country was no less rugged than that which we had just traversed, and we resolved to leave behind us, in charge of Hans, all our travelling gear ; and each taking in his pocket a lump of pemmican and INTRODUCTORY. 9 h the ^rimi- table- is we again )ii the 3(1 into id of a . banl^s [ rapid ! rocks, 1 it, by [ere we sted for able to iidition. The red, we 1 of us thirty r snow, m inse- ourney. rabbit ■lan that leave |g gear ; 3an and an ounce or so of coffee, we started, at noon of the fifth day, up the bank of the river, resolved if possible to trace it to its source. As we proceeded the prospect became more enliven- ing. The fall of snow had been mainly confined to the coast, and the bare rocks, over which we made our way by springing from one boulder to another, gave ushrnier foothold. The hills became more even in their outline ; and between them rested picturesque valleys, sloping down to the river banks, Avhich were often broad and clothed with verdure. Patches of andromeda, — arctic type of Scotia's heather, - - its purple blossoms not yet nipped by the winter frosts, — gave here and there a '..a-pet to the feet, and furnished us fuel for the cooking of a meal. Beds of green moss and turf, whose roots supplied pabulum to some festucine grasses, on. which were broAvsing little herds of reindeer, gave to the scene an air of enchantment, and brought to recollection the verdiu'e of my native Chester. These meadows often tempted us fi-om our course, sometimes to catch a closer glimjise of the stunted flowers, sometimes to steal a shot at the deer. In the former purpose we were always amply successful, but in the latter we were frustiated l)y the timidity of the animals, who could not, with all our arts, be surprised, nor approached within rifle shot. Tlie old buck who stood guard over the herd, gave the alarm by a significant snort ; and, angry at being disturbed, led away his charge, the whole troop bounding off to iiw mountains. Thence looking doAvn over the cliffs, they were seen watching us until they were lost among the, rocks, from which, in the distance, they could not be? distinguished. The vegetation of the marsluvs and mea- I III t i '! 10 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. J' llii lii dow-lands was richer than anything I had seen north of Melville Bay. Dwarf willows, — representatives of the beautiful .shadetrees of our lawns and river hanks, — with branches which trailed on the ground as thin as one's little finger, and a foot long, (the whole tree being of about the circumference of a large dinner plate,) were, in places, quite abundant. At length we emerged upon a broad plain or valley, wider than any we had yet seen, in the heart of which reposed a lake about two miles in length by half a mile in width, over the transparent, glassy surface of which we walked. On either side of us rose rugged bluffs, that stretched off into long lines of hills, culminating in series in a broad-topped mountain ridge, which, running away to right and left, was cut by a gap several miles wide that opened directly before us. Immediately in front w^as a low hill, around the base of which flowed on either side the branches of the stream which we had followed. Leaving the bed of the river just above the lake, we ascended to the top of this hillock ; and here a sight burst upon us, grand and imposing beyond any power of mine adequately to describe. From the rocky bed, only a few miles in advance, a sloping wall of pure whiteness rose to a broad level plain of ice, which ap- parently boundless, stretched away toward the unknown east. It was the great mer de glace of the arctic con- tinent. At any subsequent period of the cruise this sight would have less impressed me ; but I had never, except in the distance, seen a glacier. Here before us was, in reality, the counterpart of the river- systems of other lands. From behind the granite hills the congealed INTRODUCTORY. 11 lit ept in her led drainings of the interior water-sheds, the atmospheric precipitations of ages, were moving as a solid though ])]astic mass, down through every gap in the mountains, swallowing up the rocks, filling the valleys, submerging the hills : an onward, irresistible, crystal tide, swelling to the ocean. Cutting the surface were many vertical crevasses, or gutters, some of great depth, which had drained off the melted snow. It was midnight when we made our approach. The sun was several degrees beneath the horizon, and afforded us a faint twilight. Stars of the second magni- tude were dimly visible in the northern heavens. AVhen we were within about half a mile of the icy wall, a brilliant meteor fell before us, and by its reflection upon the glassy surface beneath, greatly heightened the effect of the scene ; while loud reports, like distant thunder or the booming of artillery, broke at intervals from the heart of the frozen sea. Upon closer inspection we found the face of the glacier to ascend at an angle of fi'om 30° to 35°. At its base lay a high snow bank, up which w^e clambered about sixty feet ; but beyond this the ice was so smooth as to defy our efforts. The mountains, which stood like giant gateposts on either side, were overlapped and partially submerged by the glacier. From the face of this a multitude of little rivulets ran down the gutters already mentioned, or gurgled from beneath the ice ; and formed on the level lands below, a sort of marsh, not twenty yards from the icy wall. Here grew, in strange con- trast, beds of green moss ; and in these, tufts of dwar willows were twining their tiny arms and rootlets about the feebler flower growths ; and there, clustered to- i ill 'i il il : p im 12 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. gcthcr, crouched among tlie grass, and sludtcrcd 1iy the leaves, and feedingon thebedof licliens, I found a Avhite- V)lossonied draha whicli would have needed only a lady's thimble for a flower-pot, and a white duckweed. Dotting the few feet of green around me were seen the yellow blossoms of the more hardy po])py, the purple j^otentilla, and the white, purple, and yellow saxifrages. This little oasis was literally imbedded in ice. The water which had flowed through it had frozen in the holes, and spread itself out in a crystal .sheet upon the rocks and stones around. A few specimens of the tiny blossoms were laid in my note-book, a sprig of heather and a saxifi-age were stuck in my button-hole, and with these souvenirs we left this garden spot, which the glacier was soon to cover for ever fi-om human eyes. Kc!turning upon our track, we arrived at the camp af l(!r an absence of twenty-three hours, having travelled, during that time between fifty and sixty miles. After halting here until midnight, we set out for the vessel, whicli was reached in another march. We found the preparations for winter progressing rapidly. Before they were completed, and as soon as the ice was sufficiently solid to insure the safety of travel, Messrs. McGary and Bonsall, with five men, Avere dis- patched with a sledge-load of stores, part of which they were to place on the land, as far north as they could reach, the remainder at available points along the Green- land coast. These deposits were to serve as supports of the principal operations, which were to follow in the spring. The party carried upon the sledge, in addition INTRODUCTORY. 13 to their own provisions and c'(|uipniL'Ut, about four hun- dred poinuls oi'pemniican* and bread. Their route lay up tlie hitherto unsurveyed eoast (^f Greenland, to tlie north-eastward I'roni Ilenssehier Jlar- bor. They soon found, much to their disappointment, that the ice was not completely fust, although the tem- perature was within a few degrees of zero. The tide, as it rose and fell alternately, opened and closed chasms, or rivers, as Bonsall styled them, sometimes fifty yards wide, across which the party were compelled in several cases to transport themselves and their baggage on a loose cake of ice, — an insecure though cliea^^ substitute ibr a rati. In this unusual mode of navigation, they were once well drenched, l)ut no more seidous results followed ; and with a steadfiist determination to carry out their instructions, McGary and Bonsall led on their men, until their furtlier progress was arrested by a great glassy wall, a liuge barricade of ice, from three to five hundred feet in height, which joined the land ninety miles north-east of liensselaer Bay, and stretched north-by-east as far as the eye could reach. This cold mass (afterwards named Humboldt Glacier) brought the temperature down below zero ; but it changed the course of the party only from north-east- by-east to north-by-east. Parallel with its face, and * Pemmican is a preparation of meat. It is made by drying thin strips of the lean portions of beef, or other flesh, either in the sun, or by a slow artificial heat, such as that of a maltkiln ; and then chopping it finely and mixing it with an equal portion of melted tallow. One pound of this preparation is equal in nutritive effect to about tliree pounds of ordinary meat. 14 AN AKCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. 11 i M I! I ii ii witliin two miles of it, they struck out for tlie land, which loomed up northward. After fiiVy-two mil^'^' of hard toil, thoy became entangled among bergs and hummocks, through wliich their heavily laden sleuge could not be forced. They were thus compelled to put back, and to deposit their stores upon the land which they had left a few days l)ofore. The principal depots were made at Capes Agassiz and Russell. On the IGth of Octol)er, the party reached the brig after an absence of twenty-six days. A few days afterwards I added a light load to the depot at Cape Ilussell ; and with this journey closed the preparatory operations for search. We were not yet, however, cpiite driven within doors. Mr. Sonntag finished the observatory and began his work in it ; and while the light of noon-day continued bright enough to enable me to read the markings on the vernier, I was engaged, with Baker for assistant, upon a topographical sextant -survey of Rensselaer Harbour and the region round about. The thermometer being at from ten to twenty degrees below zero, I had of course a fine op- portunity to prove the scorching power of frosty metal. Mr. Bonsall and INIr. Goodlellow, Mr. Petersen and Hans, Morton and Riley, tried successively to reach the Esquimaux, who were supposed to live near the mouth of the strait ; and Dr. Kane, in the intervals of Ids nu- merous occupations as commander, found time for training and exercising, for future service, the dogs, on which so much mu3t thereafter depend. The darkness at length cut short these out-door ope- rations, and forced i\s within the vessel, where we were not idle. Our small force had been reduced by sickness. INTRODUCTORY. 15 lope- Lvere liess, and tlio deck officers and cftVctive men had onoiigli of ship's duty to occupy several hours of each day. Mr. Sonata^ had still his ohservatory to look afh'r, and he was assisted there alternately hy the c(»nunaii; 1 fill) lii ; sunlight. Tho season was, liowevcr, backward, and tliLs month was the cohlest of the year. Meanwhile the preparations tor field-work were com- pleted, and on the li)th of the month the first party started, with the first ofi^icer. This, like the fall party of IMcGary and Bonsall, was to carry out provisions, to ])e deposited for the use of tlie main exj)loring and searching pai'ty, wliicli was to follow under the innnediate command of Dr. Kane. The direction given was to pursue a due north course ; and upon reacliing the opposite side of the channel to deposit there the provisions and return ; but unexpected obstacles presented themselves in the shape of heavy hummocks and deep snow-drifts. The ice in the centre of the strait had, during the latter part of the previous summer, been broken up ; and drifting masses, crowding upon each other, had been piled in confused ridges, and in this state had been frozen together. Thus the whole surface of the sea was covered; and Brooks and his party, for several days, picked a tortuous passage through, or mounted over, heavy piles of crushed ice, varying in height from five to fifty feet. At length the severity of the labour broke down the men ; the thermometer fell to 55° below zero, and four of the party, including the leader, were frozen and rendered helpless. Leaving Hickey to look after these, Ohlsen, Petersen, and Sonn- tag returned to the ship, forty-five miles distant, which they reached in thirteen hours. Immediately a relief party was organised by Dr. Kane, and was guided by Ohlsen mto the wilderness of ice in search of his com- panions, whom he had great reason to fear were lost for ever. They were, however, found and brought back INTRODUCTORY. 17 »in- irty irty ;, to and I into rse ; al to ^cted cavy entrc viouH vding r%, and ivhole d his ough, lOP in upon the slodgc. — For a niinut(i history of this licroic ruscuo I must refer the reader to the narrative of Dr. Kane. Soon aft(>r tlie return of this party, the l)rig was visited by a tiihc of wild Es(piiniaux, from whom we o])tained four dov7. The team was thus easily directed ; and, but tliat the dogs were continually jumping over each other's backs, tangling their traces into inextricable knot>!, the}; would have been as conveniently managed as a sjjan of horses. Upon encamping, om- iirst duty was to unlasli the sledge and to unharness and feed the dogs ; our second, was to light the lamp, for melting snow, and cooking coffee or tea. This lamp consisted of a sheet-iron cylinder closed at one end, a ibot high and eight inches in diameter, which was set on tlie ice. In this was placed a little cup of lard, and some 2:)ieces of ro2:>e-yarn or canvas, which, being lighted, filled the cylinder with flame ; and in this extempore chimney-place, the pot was set to melt snow and to lioil the water thus obtained. Supper, of bread and eotfee, and cold pemmican, being over, the third duty was to prepare for sleeping. If a wind was blowing, we built a snow-house to shelter us from it ; but, if calm, we spread out upon the ice or snow the reindeer bags which have been already de- scribed, liaving previously secured luider them the har- ness, and everything not impenetrable by the tooth of an Esquimaux dr .g. These wolfish fellows will eat any- thing, from an old shoe up to one of their crij)pled conn-ades, or a man ; and could they get a chance, C 2 20 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. would, before morning, ('fTectually prevent themselves i'roni being harnessed. These several occupations over, while my companion smoked his ])ipe, it was my melan- choly task, witli cold fingers, to jot down in my journal the doings of the day. Then we went to bed, by crawl- ing feet foremost into the before-mentioned sleeping- bags. In this manner one may rest quite securely, even in the open air, if the temperature be not very far below zero, in which case a snow-hut becomes necessary. Such a hut, if well packed with men, soon becomes quite warm, by the heat radiated from the persons of the oc- cupants. Although with plenty of furs one may gene- rally be warm enough in the open air, at almost any temperature, yet I am compelled to say that a sleeping- bag is no very desirable place in which to spend the night ; lor, if you expose your head you run great risk of freezing that most sensitive organ, the nose ; and if you haul your head within doors, or close up the mouth of the bag, you run equally great risk of smothering. It is a nice operation, and one requiring some practice, to adjust a proper mean l:)etween these extremes. An adequate idea of the rugged track, over which we travelled, can hardly be conveyed by a mere description. One moment we were ascending the slijipery, sloping surface of a huge elevated table of ice which had been pressed upward ; then we were sliding down another, the sledge on top of the dogs, the dogs tangled in their traces, howling piteously ; men, dogs, and sledge in wild confusion, plunging into a snow-drift, or against a cake of ice. Sometimes we were halted by a precipice eight or ten feet high, up which we were obliged to clamber, lifting the sledge, dogs, and cargo, or down which we INTRODUCTORY. 21 had to leap, tlie sledge Imrying itself head foremost in the deep drift ; at other times "\ve picked a tortuous passage among the lesser masses, often being com])elled to tmni ])ack to se(>k an opening. Our shelter and rest •were invarlidjly obtained in a snow-hut or in our sleep- ing-bags upon the ice. One thing the reader must bear in mind in order to get a picture of our condition at this time, namely, that we had constant daylight. The sun was visible, din-ing all the four-and-twenty hours, successively in the north, east, south, and west ; and always near the horizon. This journey was successful ; ])ut it would not have been so without the aid of the dogs. In eight days we reached the coast of Cape Frazer, in latitude 7*J° 42' ; but, having only two days' provisions remaining, it was impossible to proceed nuich further ; and, after making a few additional miles of northing, and planting on tlui toj) of Cape Frazer a little flag mounted on a whipstock*, we turned down the coast, and I connected my survey with the English explorations at the moutli of the channel. This survey embraced al)Out two hundred miles of the eastern coast of the land which now bears the name of the chief jiatron of the expedition, I\Ii'. Henry Grinnell. It is the most northern known land on the globe. Its eastern and southern limits have been determined, but its western and northern are yet im- ^ It was lit this time that the author observed the harbour at Cape Frazer as a suitable phice for the head-qiuirters of an ex- pedition for polar discovery. It interests him to think that liis httle Hag still floats in tlie arctic breezes, awaiting the return of the hand whicli placed it there. No wliite man but tlie autlior and his companion has ever trodden that land. c 3 00 AN ARCTIC EOAT 'OURNEY. knoAvn. It pv(»l)a.>iy extends nearer to the pole than any other land. * I had been attacked on the s^econd day of this journey with snow-blindness, wliich did not leave me dnrinp: my absence; and n])on retui-ning to the brig I was so blind as to be iTnable to get on board without a ofuide. I volunteered, however, again to take the field ; but the commander, Avith a consideration for my future sight which I appreciate mnv l)etter than I did then, would not permit me to leave the shi]). The next duty, there- fore, devolved upon William Morton, the stew^ird, who was the only remaining able-bodied man on board who was sufficiently instructed to conduct even the most rude survey. After having lieen trained by the astronomer, Mr. Sonntag, in th(> use of the sextant, IVIorton left the ship on the nth of June, with a relief-jiarty, and was followed by Hans, the Esquimaux hunter, on the 10th, with the dogs. In view of the fact that I had, in proceeding directly * It may serve to illustrate to the reader some of the peculiar- ities of journeys like that mentioned in the text, to say, that on our ten days' allowance of provision we travelled twelve days, dimng the last two of wMeh myself and companion were Antliout food of any kind. We fed our team with the lower extremities of our trousers, which avo cut for the pm^pose. These pieces, with an extra pair of boots, were dressed with slush, the rem- nant of the fuel of our lamp, and were eaten without dilRculty by the dogs. On the ninth day, to enable us to push forward to the ship, we were compelled to ligliten our load by throwing away our sleeping- Ligs. This restricted us for shelter to the lee of snow-hanks, with the help of such wannth as the sun vouchsafed to us. During the last forty hom's we travelled one hundi'cd and twenty miles. INTRODUCTORY. 23 the sun one nortli from Ronssclacr Harbour, found the track to be almost impassable, by reason of the heavy luunniocks, Mort >n was directed to keeji upon the Greenland side of the strait, and to make a final start from the cache esta})lished by McGary and Bonsall in October, LS53, near the base of Humboldt Glacier. This spot was reached on the 15th of June ; and, separating on the 18th from the relii'f-party which had accompanied him thus f;ir, Morton proceeded nearly due north. This course took him eastward of the chief line of the drift of the channel; and he found therefore a smoother track than I had previously encountered further westward. On the 21st, he reached the mouth of a new channel, (to which the name of lion. John P. Kennedy has been given,) extending northward from Smith Strait ; and at about ten miles from the eastern shore he came sud- de.ily ui:)on open water. Tracing the margin of this water eastward to the land, he mounted to the land- ice, and travelling thence northward, having open water continually upon his loft, he reached, on the 21th, his extreme latitude, about fifty miles up the cliannel. Finding it impossilile to proceed further, lie ascended to the top of a bluiF, four hundred and eighty feet in height, and thence looked out to the northward upon a boundless, iceless sea. Retracing his steps he reached the brig on the 10th of July. This journey was the most important one of the expedition, and it Avas attended with more than the usual share of difficulties and dangers Decuiiar to ice- travel ; all of which were overcome with rnanly energy and perseverance. The finding of open water northward of the ice-belt C 4 1 24 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. of Smitli Strait, is the great discovery of the cruise ; and the ohservations made in connection ^vitll it, sliow the extension of this open water far nortlnvai'd l)eyond the line of vision ; tlius indicating the existence of an iceless area at the centre of the Arctic Ocean. Tlie return of Morton closed the search. Notliing more coidd be done or attempted at this late jieriod of the sunmier. Tlie ice was l)reak:ng up, was already crossed by numerous cracks, and was covered Avith sludge. Travelling thus became not only diliicult and dangerous, but for any considerable distance over the ice-fields quite impossible. Our commander, after feelingly thanking his officers and crew for the promptness iuid energy with which they had seconded his efforts, announced to us tliat the objects of the cruise had been attidned as far as lay within our power. Henceforth our thoughts and labours would be directed homevx^ird ; and when the littlo prayer, with which he opened our simple meal, was changed i'rom " Lord, accept our gratitude, and bless our undenaking," to " Lord, accej)t our gratitude, and restore us to our liomes," every heart manifested the quickening impulses of a new inspiration. The season, however, showed evident signs of back- wardness. The open water to the soutli was yet more than thirty miles distant. Our situation was critical. In order the better to insure our escape. Dr. Kane gallantly proposed to lead a party to Beechy Island, to apprise the English, there harboured, of our condition. It was known to us that the squadi-on of Sir Edward Belcher, or at least a part of it, would return home that INTRODUCTORY. lie k- las |ne to ni. i)-d bit fall, as soon as liberated from the ice ; and in case onr brig should remain locked iiji, we felt no dou])t that he would come two hundred miles out of his way, to render us whatever aid we might require. The boat " Forlorn-Hope " was once more refitted, and Avas carried on a sledge down to the open water, which by this time had advanced to Esquimaux Point. Here the l)f^'it was launched, and, Avith five as brave fellows as ever pulled an oar^ Dr. Kane started. It Avas the 0th of August l)efore we saw them again. After an absence of almost three weeks, tliey ])rought back only a record of hare lal)our and sad disappointment. An imexpected obstacle met them in tlie " N(^"th AYater." A heavy " 2>ack " stretched from shore to shore, across from Joncfi' to Whale Sound. Ai'ter re- peated efforts to bore througli this l)arrier, skirting it Irom coast to coast in the interval, they ran short of pro- visions, and were forced to put l)ack. They brought their boat through Force Bay, and along the land lead to within six miles of the ship. This at least Avas good ncAvs. The open Avater had adA'anced rajjidly, and had thus come up as far as during the preA'ious season it had reached at a period tAvo Aveeks later. Every one seemed to feel confident that the l)rig Avould be liberated. With the aid of gunpoAvder and handspikes, the A^es- sel Avas loosened in her cradle, and Avas once more ailoat. She Avas then Avarped, inside of the islands, doAvn to Fox- trap Point, half a mile from our old quarters. BetAveen this point and tlie Six-mile Ivavine, the ice Avas Jlist, and we lay day after day in anxious suspense. Par- ties Avere going to and fro continually. All the reports 26 AN ARCTIC EOAT JOFRNE . d I' .' n t M 3 ! ! f ill showed that the open •\vuter did not advance. It had come up to the Six-mile Kavine as if to permit the entrance of Dr. Kane ; and there it had stopped. The commander made a final journey on the 23rd. Soon after his return the ship's company were called together, and the results of his expedition were explained to them. The ice in the centre of the channel had broken up, and had drifted down into Force Bay. Escape for the brig was hopeless. She could not be liberated. Either of two coui -a j now open to us — to remain by the brig and try hor the chances of a second winter, or to seek salety in ovu boats to the south. That everything possible had been done .towards the attainment of the objects of the cruise, was not doubted by any officer or man of the brig's company ; and certtdnly the character of the commander might, itself, have been relied upon by them, as a sufficient guaranty of the hopelessness of further efforts, when he had renounced them as fruitless. The question was, simply, when we should set out homeward, — whether v/e should pass the winter in the vessel, and start for Upv^rnavik in the spring ; or make the attempt without further delay, In either case, we must abandon all thougiit, either of further exploration, or of preserving the brig. The recent observations of Dr. Kane had been such as to prevent his detaching even 'ui experi- mental party to the south, so great did the perils of a journey in that direction appear to him. On the other hand, so urgent were our necessities, and so difficult of solution the problems upon which depended the safety of the persons under him, that, although his natural bias as h I INTRODUCTORY. 27 cominandor inclined him to stay by the vessel at what- ever cost, yet he rie resorted to, and mucli Kobinson Crusoe hd)0ur alu^ad. Moss was to be gathered for eking out our winter fuel, and willow-stems and stonecrops and sorrel, as antiscorbutics, collected and buried in the snow. ]}ut while all these were in progress came other and graA'crqiu^stions. " Some of my party had entertained tlie idea that an escape to the south was still practicable ; and this opinion was sup- ported by 3Ir. Petersen, our Danish intci'preter, who had accom- panied the searching expedition of Captain Penny, and had a matured experience in the changes of arctic ice. They even thoxight that the safety of all woidd be promoted by a with- drawal from the brig. " 'August 21, Monday. — The question of detaching a party was in my mind some time ago ; but the more I thought it over, the more I was convinced that it would l)e neither right in itself nor practically safe. For myself personally, it is a simple duty of honour to remain by the brig: I could not think of leaving her till I had proved the effect of the later tides ; and after that, as I have knoM'U idl along, it would be too late. — Come what may, I share her fortunes. " 'Ihit it is a diiferent question with my associates. I cannot expect them to adopt my impulses ; and I am by no means sm'e that I ought to hold them bound by my conclusions. Have I the raordl rhjht] for, as to nautical rules, tliey do not tit tho circimistances : among the whalers, Avhen a ship is hopelessly beset, the master's authority gives Avay, ani« ll . 30 AN ARCTIC IJOAT JOUIiXEY. togt'thcT so large anumlu'r (ir]»('rHonsas the entire com- pany, in (quarters so straitened, subjected to the worst rimo dl twenty-four hours to doHlx'rato ; and at the end of tli who determine to go .shall say so in writing, with a full exposi- tion of the circumstances of the case. Tliey shall have the Lest outfit I can pve, an abundant sliare of our remaining stores, and my good-bye l)lessing. " ' Aura- iphn causes ol' disease, without tlie most essential means eitlier of i)revention or cure, would, I lelt assured, convert the brig into a n\ere liospital, where the most depressing inlluences must be eiigeiiJer'-d. Originally prepared tor only a single winter, we had now completely exhausted our fuel, excej)t 750 i)ounds of coals, after the consumj)- tiou of which we nuist break up the ship; and our re- maining j)rovisions, although ample in ([uantity toi the entire ct)mpany through tlu^ winter, couslsteil mainly of salted meat, which, from its effect in pi-oducing and aggravating scurvy, as shown by the last winter's sad experience, threatened to be iatal to men in our condi- tion. If one half of the company should leave the vessel to try the southward journey, there would be a sullicicnt number of men in each party to turni a complete organ- isation. Those remaining with the vessel would have the professional skill of Dr. Kane, with augmented means of health and comlbrt ; and the causes of diseases would lie prf)portionally diminished. If the travelling party should perish by the way, the deaths would probably not be more numerous than if all should continue together ; and Avhatever the fate of that party, the persons at the brig would be in improved- condition in the spring. It was remembered by all of us, that to make a south- ward journey in Iwats to Upernavik rather than to hazard a second Avinter in the ice, had previously been repeatedly discussed, 's among the alternatives which awaited us ; and it was ;i subject long lainiliar to all of us. If, after the completion of the spring work, the season should be backward, it had been regarded as one of our recognised means of safety, to transport boats and II •II . 32 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. provisions over the ice to open water, Jiiid early in Sep- teiiiher to j)iisli southward. Tliis was one of tin- con- siderations wliicli originally inflnenced Dr. Kane in favour of wintering in I\ensselaer Bay. Tlie liiilure of his late expedition to Beechy Island, and tlie prospect of an eai'ly winter, (f()r the young ice was making rapidly,) led him to the conclnsion Avhich he annoiniced to his oificers, namely, that the '' jiack " in the North Water, which had baffled him, would still remain, ;uul would interpose an insiumountahle barrier to any attempt to escape to tlie south. This, however, he submitted to our judgments as a question upon which each of us was now called to tliink lor himself On the otlier hand, it was Ix^lieved by ]\Ir. Petersen, whose long experience of the movements of nrcdc ice entitled his opinion to great respect, tlint this North Water " pack " had never previously been observed ; that it was merely accidental ; and that, such was tlie rapidity of ice movements, we had every i-eason to be- lieve that it would entirely disappear within two weeks. Some of the grounds of this judgment will be manifested in subse([uent chapters, as the narrative carries us to the region to which they respectively relate. It is sutHcient here to stiy, that I adopted entirely Mr. Peterscnvs con- clusion, and thought that the escape whicii Ave .all medi- tated was practicable at this time. Again : if a ])i\riy sliould succeed in the attempt to reach Upernavik, (tlie distance to which was not greater than that to J3ieechy Island,) they would there pass the winter, and being directly in tlie line of the Baffin's Bay Avhalers, (which go annually witliin from one liundrcxl to one hiuidred and fii'ty miles of Smith Strait,) they ijnmiHMnniifiifiiHKunfciiinitQ INTRODUCTORY. 33 t;ould give information of the condition of the Advance, and by means either of one of those whak'rs or of one of the small slo')ps known to l)e at tlie Danish settlements, eonnniinication coidd be reopened with llensselaer Harbour in the spring. Perliaps no one, who has never been placed in similar circumstances, can appreciate the conflict t)f motives which aiFected the persons interested in the; pending ipiestion. Yet a decision nmst be promptly made ; and suffice it to say that, after some fluctuations of judgment, the company was divided into two equal parties. One of these was to remain Avith the vessel during the win- ter. The other, which Avas to venture the journey over the thousand miles of ice-girt water which lay between the brig and the nearest outpost of Christian men, con- sisted of J. Carl Petersen, August Sonntag, Amos Bon- sall, George Stephenson, George Whipple, John Blake, William GodJi-ey, and George Riley. That party I ac- companied. These pages are a record of its fortunes. .( ■: U to ter he iiv I ft/ Id m D VM 34 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. CHAP. II. PREPARATION. ] mii 1% As the enterprise upon wliicli we were about to start was of our own choosing, and rested upon our own individual responsibility, the commander very properly required as a condition of his consent to it, that we should formally detach ourselves from the organisation of the brig's company, and that we should effect a separate organisation under officers elected by on' - solves. We had no hesitation in the choice of a leader ; for, beside Mr. Petersen, there was no one in the com- pany Avho had sufficient acquaintance with the region through which we were to journey, to guide us toward Upernavik. He had the experience of twenty years in all the phases of arctic life and travel, and he was accordingly unanimously elected to conduct our party. A future chapter shall be enlivened by some biogra- phical notices of him. Our preparations for departure were immediately commenced. They were simple and .soon comj)leted. We could carry with us very little, either in weight or bulk, since everything had to be transported over the ice to the open water. Of the character of the ice down to Esquimaux Point we had had already a foretaste when Dr. Kane started for Beechy Island. It was now in - comparably worse. Jan W.'li pi; I! FaiH Was f/!i !■■ Itely Ited. It or the lown iii- PRELIMINARY JOURNEY. 35 All hands turned to with a will to help us off, and the 25th was a husy day on board the Advance.', Dr. Kane directed the hoiling of a barrel of pork and some beans, and the coppers were filled early in the niorninpr. I was chiefly occupied, during the day, in getting together my collections of natural history, the gather- ings of two summei's ; and in stowing them away in the hold, and in my little room down by the fori'castle. The floral specimens, altogether about two thousiuid in- dividual plants, were wrapped in brown i)aper packages, labelled Avith date and locality, and delivered to the commander. The same was done with the small ento- mological collection, which was in a cigar-box. The bird skins, in all nearly two hun(h'ed, were secured in a rat-proof chest. The geological and mineralogic.il specimens ; the nmsk-ox, human and other skulls and bones ; the bear and seal skins ; the fishes and other wet ])reparatioris, were in barrels or in the Smith- sonian copper-tanks. Tliis work seemed, at the time, very useless ; l)ut we kncAV not what might come, nor how many of these things might in ^l:c end be saved. I parted with deep regret from those old friends of my "wanderings and dredgings — pets mostly collected by myself, which had slowly accunudated al)out me. We commenced passing our equipment over the ship's side about noon of the 2()th ; and whilst some of us were thus engaged, «. diers were sledging it to the land-ice, and with a rope hauling it up the vertical wall. The carpenter had made us a sledge of inch- plank, shod with hoop-iron, on which and on the Faith, the companion of many a weary day's work, was stowed wiiat we would carry ; and at hali-past D 2 i' is ,i( 36 AN ARCTIC EOAT JOURNEY. live o'clock in the afternoon; accomvanied l)y Mr. Wilson, Ohlsen, and Tlicke^'' of the remaining party, we moved south v i •<2:ar. These articles were estimated to last us from four to five weeks.* Fv;r the rest, we were to rely upon our o'uns. Our personal equipment was on a par with the state * This was the time in which wo were expected t) reaeli Upernavik, if at all. The amount of our provision was li})erally left l\y the commander to our own r,p^ion; and it was the more readily taken hy tlie party as the men wlio continued witli the hrig had all tliat remained of the stores, which would have sufficed, in quantity, for eight months for tlie entire company of eighteen, otRcers and men. D 3 Ill ^i' 38 AN AECTIC BOAT JOCJRNEY. of" the iariltjr. Every man who had a complete clta nge of clotluMg, carried it with liim ; and most of us were thus furnished. We liad woi-n out marly all of our fars. Our outer garments were, tlicrefbre, cither pilot cloth, seal-skin, or canvas. Eiich took liis private stock of blankets, averaging about one and a half p>airs per man. From the ship's stores we had half the l')uifal() rol>es, (two India-rul>ber lined skins,) relics of the spring journeys. We were sujjplied by the com- mnnder with a sextant, spy-glass, chronometer, boat- compass, barometer, one shot gun, and a reasonable quantity of ammunition. Bonsall and Petersen had each liis own rifle. Dr. Kane, INIr. Wilson, Mr. McGary, and Morton, who were best provided, generously shared with -"IS their clothing. From Wilson I received an under-shirt, and two pairs oi' good woollen socks, and I left hini, in exchange, a coat. Somitag added to his bag something from Wilson, and received a ])!anket from the captjtin. Petersen's rifle was a present from Dv. Kane to Petersen junior, at Upernavik. During the morning, while some were packing up their " traps," others were carrying our remaining stoi-es to the land-ice. Before noon the sledges were packed, and all was ready. Dr. Kane then called us to the cabin. In some nook or corner of the after-port-locker the 'jareful steward had stowed a couple of bottles of champagne, the existoMce of which was known only to the commander and hiinscll'. One of these was drawn from its hiding-place, and in ! roken-handied teacups we exchanged mutual pledges. The " God speed you" of those who remained was answered with a reciprocal good wish from hose who were about to leave. Next ! I !5 9 THE PARTING. S9 hres :ed, [the Iker of to jiips l)U 11 )cal text moment we had shaken hands and said good-bye all around, and, mounting the companion-ladder, were oif. As we slowly moved down the ice-foot, we endeavoured to make up in firmness of tread what we lacked in light- ness of heart. Although our judgments could not waver, after the serious discussions which had led to our choice of alternatives, yet the contingencies which awaited eacli party were sufficiently imjiressive to weigh heavily upon us. Our messmates at the brig waved us a silent adieu from the deck. If D 4 40 AS ARCTIC BOAT JOURNE\. i'l CHAP. IIT. THE START. Mn. McGahy, Hickey, nm\ Hans were detailed by Dr. Kane to assist us in transporting our cargo to the open water, a lead of which we exjoected to meet at ten miles from the brig. The Six-mile Eavine was reached late in the allernoon, and here we again camped. We were now fairly off; but it was not until next day that we liilly realised the amount of labour which was before us. I was awake at four o'clock in the ' morning; and, calling one of the men, started the lamp to boil some coffee. Leaving him to look after the breakfast, I walked a short distance down the ice-foot in company with Petersen. The prospect was rather dis- heartening. There 'vvas scarcely a foot of water to be seen. The land lead was closed with lumps of wasted ice, cemented together by the last few days' freezing. All to the northward appc^ared as one unbroken field ; while down the coast to the south and west we could see only an impacted mass of broken floes, the chasms sepa- rating which were bridged over with thin ice. Return- ing to the encampment we foimd our companions busy with preparations for starting. The first load was packed on the Faith ; and with all hands on the track-ropes, except Mr. Sonntag and Stephenson, who were both unwell, we moved slowly southward ; and in. three hours ' ■- |ld; see U- rn- jnsy keel )es, loth Inrs A DISCOURAGI>'G TROSrECT. 41 reached the Ten-mile Kavine, four miles further on our cour.se. As we approached the outer extremity of the cape, our people felt keenly disau})ointed ; for they had con- fidently expected here to take the water. Ice, ice, and nothing but ice was anywhere to be seen. There was certainly little that was tempting in the prospect. The succour for Avhich they perilled their lives seemed a long way off. when they looked out over this boundless waste of frozen water. Ten miles lu'liind them was the ship wdiich they had left the day before. Between her oaken walls was to be fomid the only shelter within more than a thousand miles. Before them, at that distance, was Upernavik, with safety, if it could be reached ; but what a wilderness intervened ! A l(!ss important object, and a less desperate motive to persevere, would have been insufficient to sustain us. There was certainly some excuse for melancholy faces, and questionings as to whether it were not wiser to turn back. However, the men all stood firm through fourteen hours of continual labour, in the teeth of a southerly wind, accompanied with occasional gusts of snow. During this time we brought up all our cargo in three separate loads, leaving behind only the boat Forlorn Hope ; and we were glad enough, after a supper of cold pork, bread, and coffee, to find, in the tent, shelter from the wind, which was fast increasing to a gale. The reliel-party, which had accompanied us thus far, having exhausted its allotted time, left us at noon to return on board. The 1)arometer went down in the night to 28' 7, and the temperature rose from 2G° to 3^5°. The gale broke upon us directly after we had camped. It soon started V ,1 : % I Ef,;' '1 I ilfi 'i'! i 111 I- 42 AN AIICTIC BOAT JOURNEY. I tiie ice. First a few opin leads appeared at the liead of tlie bay, and toward Godsend Island. At length the floes to the north-west gave way, and the loose drift down toward Es(piimaux Point drove rapidly up the channel ; but the shore-ice near us did not move. A chain of heavy bergs lay gromided off Cape Ingersoll, and they held the ice firndy. Our hope was that the gale would set these bergs in motion ; but this hope Ibrsook us when we discovered the Ijiirometer to be rising and the thermometer falling. The force of the gale was broken in the afternoon, and it died away toward evening, leaving the sea open to the south-west. From this water we were most provo- kingly shut out by a narrow belt of hunnnocks and trash which -were all joined together by thin ice, not sufficiently strong to bear. We had a good night's rest in our tent, notwithstanding the wind, and tui'ned out at eight o'clock. Godfrey fixed the lamp in the lee of a large rock, and cooked us a comfortable breakfast ol" scouse and coffee. The gale was then at its height, and we waited ^rom hour to hour in readiness to take the water ■when the ice should move off; but five o'clock came, and brought no change. There was no alternative but to resume our work. Our tent w^as pitched at the mouth of a deep ravine, and before us the land-ice * was entirely gone * This " lund-ice," or " iee-foot," as it is indifferently called, is a belt wh i''Li, being glued to the rocks, docs not rise and fall with the tide. Its outer face is vertical, and its upper surface is mainly smooth and level, until towtird the close of summer, when the melted snow poured upon it from the hills and cliffs on the one side, and the sea on the other, wear it rapidly away. hue is dth is Ihcn Ithe (( Tin: Foi:u)KN hope. i» ■13 for at least fif>y yards, licyond this it was nuicli wasted awiiy. By noon we li;id brou'rht up the boat, and tlien we carried the greater part ol" our stores a mile further on. While this was being done, Petersen was repairing tlie boat. The liict had been disclosed to us the day before, that the Forlorn Hope W[is a forlorn affair indeed. As she lay luider the cliffs where she had been letV by Dr. Kane, she had become seriously damaged. A stone, about the size of one's fist, had fallen upon her from the cliff, and, striking her stern-post, had started it; then, glancing off, it had gone completely through her half- inch cedar planking; while another had rolled down under the bilge, and, pushing a plank out of its place, had broken it in two. We had the good fortune to possess a hatchet, some nails, a few pieces of board, and a little pot of white lead ; and with these Petersen patched up the holes, and made all right again. The boat was then launched ; that is, run down over the stones upon her keel toward the water. She stuck fast, and we found much trouble in doing anything with her. The ice would not support her, and yet it was so thick that we could not cut through it. We therefore hauled her out again, and resolved to await the flood- tide. We crawled back into the tent and slept soundly until three o'clock next mornino:, when we were aroused by voices outside. Three Esquimaux, a b'-v of about eighteen years, and two women, stood at the door of the tent, chattering away as unintelligibly, and many times as fast as a poll-parrot. The boy we had seen before, but the women were new to us. They were a miserable-looking set. Their faces were mottled with i i i : \' : ^ '■>. ! mi •Ik: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■ 50 "^™ ■^ 1^ |22 ^ 1^ 12.0 lit I: I I-25 lU 1.6 =J s, |-= -. ^ 6" ► V] /G. "^J^ :^ ^;. >^ '^ '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation <^ ^•v ^^ •SS5 o [\ ». 'O" .* '^f^ <^.^' 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 o o ;\ 44 AN ARCTIC UOAT JOrKNLV. , i! soot and oil, tliroiigh whicli only here and tliore could bo sL'cn the natural copjH'ry tint of the complexion. They were dressed in skins, or rather were scarcely dressed .at all, for their clothing was in rags and tatters, and seemed just ready to droj) off. Their hands and iiices looked as if they had never l)een washed; Jind the boy, with his long l)la('k matted hair cut scjuare aen»ss his eyebrows, and the women with theirs drawn together on the top of the head, where it ^^as tied with a ])iece of h-ather, presented a most unattractive appear- ance. One of the women carried a bal)y not more than six months old. It was stuck, stark naked and feet foremost, into the after-part of her coat or jumper, being supported ])y a rope, on which it seemed ♦^o sit, and which came around under the mother's arms and was tied about her neck; its iimocent baby-face, ])eer- ing out over the woman's lefl shoidder from beneath her hood, was the very image of stupid unconsciousness. They were shivering with cold, and asked for means to light a fire. We gave them some matches, a bit of wood, and two or three needles; and JifVer .baring with us oiu" breakfast, which, sidt though it was, they were hungry enough to relish, they started off down the coast. A few hours afU-r, we learned that they knew more than they chose to conununicate. Hans came running down the ice-foot, out of breath and in a great rage. It was some time l)efore we could get out of him what was the matter. When he recovered his breath, he told his story in his own language to Petersen; but in the meantinu' it was nothing but " Smit-Souu Eskemo, no koot ! no koot ! All siune mickey! — all same dog ! steal me bag ! — steal Nalegak buffiilo ! " E;>(2UIMAUX. 4ft The trutli was, tlu-y liad been to \hv ship and carried off, among other vahial)k's, a small ])iifralo-skin, and a woll'-skin hag which Dr. Kane liad presented to Hans, Hence the lad's indignation. The cinining thieves had taken good care to secrete these articles from lis, Tliey had ])rol)al)ly travelled over the land, and a])proa('hing the se.i, a mile or two below, had seen us fron) tl.e hill- tops, and come to beg a triile. Certainly all they coidd get by fair means or foul was not more than they needed, and could we have spared any ini[)ortant articles, I am sure no one would have objected to giving them what they most re([uired. We were al)out as badly off as they, llans stopped Avith us long enough to refresh liimself with something to eat and a cup of coffee, and then continued after tjie thieves. AVhen the full tide had come in we found that the ice had rehixed a httle, and that there was a narrow lead close alongside the ice-foot. The boat was again run down and hiunched. For about a hundred yards we got on well enough, but the lead was then closed up by pieces of heavy ice, some of which had been can'ied there by the spring-tides and were grounded. These obliged us to haul outside where the young ice lay in one continuous sheet. It was found to h^^ of the same character as that which we had before encoun- tered. It would not break before the be vs of the boat, nor would it bear. We tried all sorts of expedients. First we cleared the thwarts, and foiu- men weie put to the oars. The points of the blades were driven into the ice, the bow having been previously lightened, and everything stowed in the sternsheets ; but no force that we could exert in this manner would di'ive the boat i^l m 46 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. forward. Then two men were stationed in the liow and broke the way witli the hoat-hooka ; but this was so alow an operation, and fatigued us so mucli, that it w.as abandoned. We tlierefore drew back once more, and aih'r unshipj)ing the cargo, we dragged the boat upon the ice-foot, and liauled her on her keel, down to the i)lace to Avhich we had carried the remaining stores the day before. These stores were then taken forward upon the sledge, at two separate loads, one and a half miles further on ; and the boat was afterward carried to the same place. Here we again found that a portion of the ice-foot was washed away ; and beyond this break the foot was impassable by reason of the frequent fissures which occurred, some of them wide and deep. Beside, the icy ledge was in many places so narrow or sloping as to be impractical )le to a sledge. The labours of the day had much fatigued us. In addition to the fi-uitlcss exertion which we had made on account of the boat, we were five times obliged to unship our cargo from the sledges ; and, making pack- horses of ourselves, to transport it piece by piece across the broken places in the land-ice, or over the narrow fissures on a bridge which we made with the sledges. We were, beside, greatly vexed by a little accident, which seemed likely to deprive us of one of our few luxuries. Bonsall had taken the keg of molasses upon the back of his neck, grasping either end of it with one hand, and, while trudging along near the edge of the ice-foot, tripped and fell upon his face. The keg went rolling over his head and down into the sea. Then more than two hours elapsed before we could find any ■i ( A LITTLE ACCIDENT. water for our coffee. Tlio streams seemod to be all dried up ; and we were ol)liged to await the return of a party from our Inst encamj)ment liefore we could start the fire. It was seven o'clock when we pitched the tent, and we got to bed al>er ten ; not, however, l)efore wo had the satisfaction of Uarning that, the tide having fallen, Mv. Bonsall and Godfrey had, by means of boat- hooks, fished up the molasses out of four feet of water ! In made ;d to )nck- cross rrow dges. dent, few I upon li one the I went rrhcn any 43 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. i , i I '• -t 1 ,5 1 ■J J H H ml in 1 m 1 CHAP. IV. ACROSS Tin: ice-fii:lds. For reasons wliicli ap])0[ir in the lust cliapter, no course remained to us l)iit to leave tlie land-ice and try once more the " floes." A sudden lall of tlie temperature, during the night and the latter part of the previous day, to ten degrees below the freezing point of sea-water, had come to our aid. The young ice was found to he, in places, three inches in thickness, and would securely bear us. Accordingly, af^er breakfast, everything was made ready, and the tide being at its ebb, the boat was run down the sloping beach juid upon the ice ; and although this bent under the weight, yet we reached in safety an old floe at about a hundred yards from shore. The large sledge was then loaded with our clothes-bags and buf- falo robes, and started ; but, as bad luck would have it, the slope was s^^teep, and the two men at the after-guy found it impossible to maintain their hold. Their heels flew up, and away went the Faith down to the right where the ice was thin. First, this bent ; then one runner broke through ; over went the cargo, and into the water went everything. Fortimately there was nothing on the sledge that [lat RETREAT OF RILEY. 49 would not float ; l)Ut our clothcs-lmgs woro thoroufrhly soaki'd before we could get our boat-hooks and .s;ivt* them. The buifalo robes were wrapped in India-rubber cloth, and were scarcely touched by the water. Nothing of importance to us was seriously damaged, except the spirits of our men. Petersen was the principal lo.ser. He had brought with him from Upernavik a fine bed of eider- down, under which he was accustomed to stow himself out of sight every night when on board of the Advance. This bed he. had compressed into a bundle not larger than his head, and had ])ut it in his bag. It was tho- roughly soaked, and was of course worthless. I pitied the man as he iniwrapped th.' flabby thing ; yet 1 coidd not repress a smile at tlie workings of his rueful face, while he wrung the water from his tn^asure. Smarting imder my mirthfulness, and his great disappointment, he hastily rolled the whole up into a wad, and with an expression, too Danish for me to detect of its meaning, more than " Doctor !" and " Sa-tan !" he hurled it among the rocks. — Forty Danisli dollars gone for ever ! During tlie last four-and-twenty hours the courage of some of the party had been steadily on the wane. They could see no possibility of our getting at this rate to Upernavik. This accident was the straw which broke the camel's back ; and while we were yet busy with tlu; wet cargo, Riley and John, concluding, no doubt, that prudence was the better part of valcur, beat a hasty re- treat toward the brig. John rejoined us soon afler- ward, but Ililey remained on board. The number of our party was thus reduced to eight persons. The work nevertheless went on. A half hour was E i ii ;r;ii: 60 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. sufficient for wrinp^ing the water out of our baggaf^e and spreading tlie articles upon tlie rocks. With more cau- tion than before, we ran another k)ad ov(!r to tlie boat. At six o'ck)ck in the afternoon Ave had collected to- gether all of our cargo, and were ready once more to move onward. In the meantime (iodfrey had been moping on the rocks. I gave to him peremptorily the option to go back to the ship at once, or to go to work. He chose the latter. Hans joined us again at noon. He liad overtaken the Esquimaux, but had not found the stolen articles upon tliem. It was his wish to go with us, and now that our party was reduced to seven, (John had not yet rcturncid,) and the party on board increased to eleven, he thought it uniiiir that we refused him. I desired Petersen to tell him that we could not * ke him without the permission of Dr. Kane. He worked with us during the remainder of the day, no doubt hoping that by this act of devotion we would be in- duced to relent; but it was clearly our duty to send him back. The old floe, to which we had brought our boat and cargo, was rough and rotten. On the further side of it was a belt of new ice. Beyond tliis we could see open w;iter, which liars informed us con- tinued nearly to Godsend Island, to the south of which, v/ith the exception of a narrow belt, all was free. We worked hard, hoping to reach this open watei-, l)ut eleven o'clock found us only at the margin of the old field. Already we had been in the traces fourteen hours; and at least six more would be re- (juired to make the remaining distance. The people GIVING UP "THE FAITH. 11 r)i Ire- Iple were oxhaustod and must havo rost, como what mi^lit. Wc thoroforo pifchod our tent, and, by midnight, wv.rvi all fast ask'C'p. An hour after, wo were aroused by MeCiary and Goodfellow, wlio liad come down after tlic Faith. 1 explained to tliem tliat they must have mistaken thoir orders, since we were to liave the sledge until we reached tlu^ water ; tliat they had two good sledges at tlie ship, and the one whidi we had was not needed in addition ; but they showed a letter from Dr. Kane containini? an order to briii"^ the Faith to the ship. Altluingli satisfied that a misiippre- licnsion exist(^'d (as subsequently was ascertained t-o be the iiict), we sent back the sledge. Tlie party letl us in lialf an hour. They uiadc in one con- tinuous march tlie journey to and fro, altogether little lesvS than thirty miles, withouv rest or food, over a bad road, with the thermometer at 17°. Wc after- ward learned that they had worked all the day before at the ship, had started ailer supper, and were at home to breakfast. We were out of our blankets at six o'clock n(»xt morning. The temperature had fallen to 15°. The air was perfectly calm. The open water which looked so hopeful yesterday, was now covered with a thin crust of ice. The day began rather dis- couragingly. The sledge made for us by the carpenter had bee^n found to be utterly worthless ; and, after the first day, it had been carried, not under, but on top of the cargo. It was so frail that it would not hold together : and the thin hoop-iron sole was cracked. Bad, liow- £ 2 J 52 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. N' < ever, aa it was, it was all tluit we had, and we must make tlie most of it. Petersen, whose inge- nuity we liad reason to eoniniend on many subse- (pient oceasions, did the hest lliat lie eould under the cireumstances. Tlie broken iron was patx^hed, and the hisljings were re-arranged. By nine o'cU)ck, all was ready to start. Meanwhile, some of the party had been carrying forward such articles as they could transport upon their backs ; and some of the heavier ones were swung upon oars and carried, upon two men's shoul- ders, to the place where open water had be(»n seen the previous (evening. Such articles as could not be thus transported were left for the sledge, which brought them up in three loads. Then the boat was dragged to the same spot upon her keel. The water was now found to be covered with ice about an inch in thickness. The stores being placed in the boat, we ran her out upon the thin ice ; and as the bows sank down, we sprang over the gunwale, and found ourselves afloat in a puddle of water which fitted us exactly. How to get on was the next question. Three men took oars, the others took poles and -boat-hooks. The blades of the oars were planted in the ice, and the boat-hooks astern. The result of the operation was to split an oar, to break a thole-2)in, and to preci- pitate the surgeon of the expedition into the water. He was stationed in the sternsheets, and was push- ing with much energy with a boat-hook, planted in the ice, when the hold broke, and the area of the open water was increased by the size of his body. HARD WORK. 98 The ice waH too strong to be cut by tlui boat's Htem ; and, but I'or Stephenson, we should have been obliged once more to haul back upon the floe, and try again tlie sledging. Ste[)henson wore a pair of thick cowhide boots, proiessedly water-proof, which came up a ibot above his knees; and with these he proposed to tramp a track. He stationed liiniselt' Jistride of tlie bow, seized the top of the stern-post with both hands, and, treading to right and \vAl, he broke up a j)assjige from two to three feet in width, tlirougli which the boat was squeezed. The ice be- came thinner as we advanced, and we made better progress. Thus we gained al)out four miles, which brought us to the land at the head of Force Bay. Mounting to the ice-foot, which was here very narrow and almost impassible, we tracked the boat, in true canal-style, a mile or two further, when we again brought up against ice which would bear us. Again the cargo was un- shipped, and was carried over to an old floe, about a hundred yards from shore. Here we pitched our tent. This kind of work was rapidly reducing the strength of our people. Constant labour diu'ing sixteen hours is not child's play anywhere; but, with wet feet and oflen wet bodies, in a temperature varying from 12° to 20°, it was more than any one could prolong. Several of us had fallen through the ice during the day; and Stephenson, who was a scorbutic invalid at starting, felt seriously the effects of having his feet so long in the water. Petersen, who had suffered during the whole summer from scurvy and rheumatism, felt his pains coming back; and Mr. Sonntag was threatened £ 3 54 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. with liirt old heart trouble. I y)t'li('v<' there was scarcely one of us who tliil not take his sick man's u;rowl as lie rolled into Ins blankets. While the supper was cookin«r, I went with Teterseii ami Sonntag to the shore, and iVom a blufl' about one hmidred feet in height we had a fine view to the west- ward. About six miles away, the sea was peHectly open, and a light wind which blew in from that di- rection was eating into the young ice winch margined it, and, by keeping its surtace agitated, jircvented its freezing. With a good sledge, another day's pull would finish this soul and body killing work; but, with the rickety ail'air with which we had occupied eight hours in making half a mile, we had a hoj)eless task before us. Indeed, it looked very nnich like folly to attemj)t it. We could not hop(^ to make the six miles in less than three days. Already the temperature was down to 12°. Three days wouhl carry us to the (Jth of Sep- tember, and then the prospect of getting out of the bay would be slight indeed. We had just got iairly into the midst of our nap when we were aroused by Morton. He had come down to bring back the Faith, and he carried a letter from Dr. Kane, explaining the cause of its withdrawal. From what he had learned, he had feared that adverse counsels existed in the party, that it had been divided, and that the sledge no longer remained in the possession of the officers. Hickey and Riley accompanied Morton. Riley was to remain with us until we got to open water, and then take back the sledge. Morton and Hickey were to go in piu'suit of the Esquimaux thieves. A bed was fitted up for them in the boat, and there they slept soundly ESQUIMAUX nilSiONEKS. 55 IS fen d until tt'ii o'clock next inorniii^. Ry eleven, everythinn^ was packi'd \ij). and tlie slcdj^e l(»adi'd; and, as tlu' men ran away with it, the despondency which settled over them the previous evenin«j^ took hasty flight. There would be now no ditliculty in reaching the wati-r. llickey was sick, and stayed at the canij), while liiley took his place and went on with Morton. In half an hour Kiley came l)ack drij)ping wet; he had lidlen through the ice. Morton had gone on alone, lli^ returiu'd late in the atVernoon, having the Kscjuimaux with hini. lie had overtaken them near Kefug(^ Iidet, w^liere they had halted to divide their hooty. The skins were all nicely madi' by tlu'm into coats and pantaloons, \yhich had u.s^'.rju'd the j)lace of their old ragged, lilthy seal-skin^. They looked mnch improved in their borrowed plunu's, and strutted about, seeming not to be aware of the fact that they were prisoners ; and very proud were they, supposing that they had obtained the skin of an umingmak, (nuisk-ox,) an animal of which they had heard, but which they had never seen. The tribe have, however, traditional knowledge of the existence of the nuisk-ox to the liir north. They were once inhabitants of tliat part of Greenland visited by us above Cajjc Alexander. My collections of natural history, left at the Advance, con- tained at least a dt)zen skulls, j)icked up at different points along the coast ; and, eighty miles eastward of Rensselaer Harbour, nearly at the base of the mer de glace, specimens of tLem were found by Mr. Wilson and myself in the autunm of 1853. It se(;ms, therefore, that they were numerous in that region in fornuT times ; though, from the fact that no living specimens £ 4 1 ?w I'l i \ d|| 56 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. were observed by us, nor any seen by the natives, we may infer that the animal has long since become extinct in Greenland. I do not doubt the truthfulness of the Esquimaux tradition of their existence to the far north, on an island in an iceless sea. To return to the narrative : Morton and Hickey soon left us with their newly-clad prisoners, and the work of transportation went on in much the simie manner as during the two previous days ; but we progressed more slowly than we had anticipated. Once we reached a wide crack that had been opened by the tide, which obliged us to ship our cargo into the boat, and unship it again on the other side, thus occasioning the loss of much time. Another crack we attempted to cross on its bridge of tliin ice. It held up very well, bending slightly, but not breaking, under our several loads, until the boat broke its back, and let all of us down into the water except those who had hold of the track-ropes. The main open water was not reached until midnight. Everything was embarked in the boat, and, leaving Petersen with four men to bring it over to Esrnimaux Point, which was about two miles distant, I walked with the remainder of my comrades around upon the ice to the land. After taking a look-out from a neigh- boui-ing bluiF, we joined the others where they were hauled up at a short distance from the shore, being unable to approach nearer on account of the heavy ice which had set in, and which lay grounded and hemmed in by the rocks. We found that they had preceded us by an hour and a half, as was shown by the steaming pot of coffee with which we w^ere welcomed. •"^ PROTRACTED EXERTION. 57 On our way down to the beach from the hill-side, we stopped at the old dilapidated hut which gives the name to the locality. H( o we had the good fortune to find a piece of wali-us meat, which we supposed had been left by Morton's prisoners ; and which, as we had tasted no fresh food since leaving the ship, we thought it no sin to appropriate to our own use. We left in its place a wooden staff, which, in the eyes of the Esqui- maux, would be ample compensation. With the ad- dition of a few pieces of pork, the meat thus provided made us a fine supper. The view which wo obtained fi-om the hill showed the coast to be mainly free from ice as far down as the eye could reach, and out to sea for three or lour miles. Beyond this distance there lay a heavy pack, which was held off from the shore by a long chain of dangerous looking bergs. The lead was tempting, but there was no wind, and we could only go on under oars. Our people were incapable of such exertion. They had had another day of sixteen hours' continued work, andmust have rest. Hoping for the best, — that the lead would remain open, — we pitched our tent upon the level surface of a piece of old ice which lay grounded near the shore ; and at three o'clock in the morning we turned in, weary and cold, as men with wet clothes would naturally be after so protracted exertion, with the temperature at 11°, but happy as temporary success could make us. We were so far overcome that we retired to rest without setting a watch. When we awoke next morning, a smart breeze was blowing fi'om north-north-eabi. Petersen went on shore to reconnoitre, and soon returned, reporting the ice I i 58 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. \m closing in with the land. Our baggage was shipped into the boat as quickly as possible. Giving the Faith into the charge of'Kiley, and bidding him a hasty adieu, we pulled up to windwjird to clear the point; and then, shaking out our sails, we stood away exultingly on our course, west-south-west. i « <' :• m 59 CHAP. V UNDER SAIL. The Forlorn Hope was an ordinary New London whale- l)oat, twenty-four feet in length, two and a half in depth, and with five and a half feet beam. She had been rigged by Mr. McGary for Dr. Kane's southern journey in July, with a foresail and a mainsail, — the first with twelve, and the last with fourteen feet, lift; and a jib. Eight men, with their baggage, brought her gunwale down within four inches of the water. Notwithstanding this, we made nearly four knots ; and for awhile every- thing looked promising ; but below Anoatok, which is five miles south-west of Esquimaux Point, we found that the icebergs came in close to the land, and no longer held off the pack. Our lead was closed. After beating about for a v/hile in search of an open- ing, we drew up, much disappointed, alongside of a lump of old ice, which was about twenty yards square and thirty feet in thickness. Its surface lay about four feet out of the water ; and, being quite level, afforded a good camping-ground. Upon this table we unshipped our cargo ; and Petersen taking the boat, with t'vo men, pulled up to a little berg near which we had observed a flock of unfledged ducks. He returned in an hour with eleven birds, eight of which made us a good supper. ri' ■! 11 I'. « ' Li »'■ 'U > ' 'A 'i i iP Jl^l: i ,_,• ^ J 60 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. "We waited here until late in the evening, hoping tliat a change of tide would open a j)assage ; but tlie pack only closed tigliter and tighter, finally compelling us to haid our boat up on the ice, to save it from being crush(>d. Tlie wind still blew i'rom the north-north-east, bitterly cold ; temperature 1 5*^. At ten o'clock we })itclu'd the tent and turned in. Petersen had the morning vv^atch, and went on shore to observe the ice. At first everything remained as it was the evening before ; an apparently endless collection of innnensely lieavy floes were locked against the capes of Kefuge Harbour. Suddenly sometliing appeared to give way. First a few pools of water were visible ; then lead after lead opened in every direction through the pack. In a little while the ice had spread itself out over the sea, and was moving off to the west and south. Petersen watched the shiflincr scene until he became satisfied that the change was permanent. Then running quickly down the hill, he cried to us from the shore, " Haste ! haste ! the lead opens." He was just in time to spring aboard the fiozen raft on which we had taken refuge, as it moved away. We were out of our blankets and buffaloes in a twinkling. The Hope was quickly launched and stowed. While this was being done, the cook had prepared a hasty breakfast, which being more hastily swallowed, we dropped down into the boat, and, with all sails set, ran off before the wind for the capes of liefuge Harbour. The movements of these ice-fields are as strange as they are rapid. We started from Esquimaux Point with every prospect of an unobstructed passage, and before we had gone six miles the lead was closed. So it re- AFLOAT. — LIFE-BOAT RAY. 61 ire. a [^ed. ll a |ed, (set, mr. as rith lore ire- maint'd during the day. Tn a ft'W hours tlio wind liaulod around two points to the cast, and the whole aspect of tilings was changed. The ice began to move ; the floes separated ; the cmcks widened ; until finally there was no barrier at all ; and in an open sea, dotted only here and there by a floe, we were spinning down the coast at the rate of four knots an hour. In three hours we led behind us the brown knobby bluffs which form the horns of Refuge Harbour ; and in another hour we were close under the g7*anite wjiU of Cape Ilatherton. Then opened the low lands of Life- boat Bay, and behind these the dark stratified cliffs sup- porting an extensive t^ible-land which, elevated a thou- sand feet above the ocean, stretches away far into the interior. Life-boat Bay is a broad shallow ami of the sea. It is studded on its northern side with lit^^le islands ; while its eastern shore is cut into numerous coves or bights, by low rocky points. On the main land, two miles north-east from Lyttleton Island, and six miles south of Cape Ilatherton, at the head of the most southern of these coves, lay the Francis' metallic life-boat, left by Dr. Kane in August 1853, which was to form the second vessel of our fleet. Of this boat we were now in search. We made good progress for nearly an hour after rounding Cape Ilatherton, having, during that time, passed about three miles of the coast, and we were con- gratulating ourselves that all was free, when the look- out cried, " Ice ahead ! " There it was, sure enough, about a mile before us, — a long white line, against which the surf was breaking. We ran down within a quarter of a mile of it, hoping 62 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUl^NEY. I , ..m all tho time that we should find a lead ; hut no opening could anywhere he seen. The pack was jammed tight together, and against the southern shore of the bay ; and stretching off to the south-west, it seemed to block up the channel between Lyttleton Island and the main land. The course of the boat was changed to the west, and, although the wind was increasing, we deter/iiined to run outside the island and endeavour to reach the cove from tlie south ; but here, again, we were headed off ; a tongue of the pack stretched up to the north as far as we could see. To haul close on the wind and run up the edge of the ice was out of the question. With a less heavily laden boat this could easily have been accom- plished ; but already we were shipping much water, with the wind on the quarter. Two points more around must swamp us. A sea breaking over the gunwale con- vinced us of the danger of the attempt, and again the boat was headed south. It became now evident that we were in great jeopardy. We had run down into a bight, with a lee-shore to the east, and ice to the south and west. We were in the bend of a great horseshoe. There was no time to get out the oars and pull up to windward ; the boat could not have lived long enough to get her head around to the waves. The cargo was piled upon the thwarts, and a quarter of an hour would scarcely have sufficed to clear them. Something must be done, and that quickly. The wind increased in violence, the waves rolled higher and higher. We could only run down upon the ice and trust to luck. Choosing a point to the south-west, where the pack looked weakest, we brailed up the mainsail, took a hasty IN JEOrARDf. 63 Id reef in the forcsiiil, hauled in the jib, and rm for it. John took tlie steering oar, Pett^rsen eonnt^d tlie boat irom the forecastle, Stc^phenson held t\w. sheet, Bonsall stood by the brail of the foresiiil, and the nist of us took ■whatever of boat-hooks and poles we could lay hands on to " fend off." The boat ])onnded away. " See any opening, Peter- sen ? " " No, sir ! " An anxious five minutes followed. " I see what looks like a lead ! we must try for it." " Give the word, Petersen." On flew thi! boat. " Let her fall off a little — off! — Ease off the sheet — so — steady ! — A little more off — so ! — Steady there — steady, as she goes ! " Our skilful pilot was running us through a narrow lead which terminated in a little Inght, wh;'i*e the water was, fortunately, smooth. We were beginning to hope that it would carry us through the pack, when he cried out, " It's a blind lead ! " " Tight everywhere ? " "I see no opening ! " " There's a crack to windward." " Can't make it ! — Let go the sheet — brail up — fend off!" Thump, crash, push. The stem struck fair, and the force of the blow was broken by the poles. In an instant all hands sprang out upon the floe. The boat did not appear to have been seriously damaged. Our harbour was only temporary. The ice was in rapid motion, and in a moment the whole face of things about us was changed. A large floe, which had kept off the waves, commenced to revoive. In a few minutes there was only a tongue, a few feet wide, to protect us from the surf The ice pressed close upon the boat ; the spray dashed over our heads. The cargo was unshipped as quickly as possible, and the Hope 64 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. ilHI was haukul up in time to save her. The stores were next tumbled into a heap, out of the reach of the spray. This had scarcely been done, when the floe broke in two. Tlie crack opening rapidly, separated the Hope; from her cargo. Here was a dilemma, and it promised to be a serious one ; but, luckily, the piece upon which the boat stood was caught by another drifting mass, which slew(!d it around and tongued it upon a corner of the field ii'om which it had been detached. The boat was quickly run over; and, with thankful hearts, we now saw, what we had no reason to expect at any time during tlie last fifteen minutes, all of our valuables together in, at least, temporary safety. The whole pack was moving, grinding, squeezing, and closing. Pre- sently, a large floe revolved to the eastward and settled down against the field upon which we had taken refuge. In half an hour there was no open water within a hundred yards of us. III 65 I CHAP. VI. \ GLOOMY NIGHT. Everything now appearing to be secure, Bonsall and myself, accompanied ])y two of the men, set off over the ice to try to reach the life-ljoat on foot. The head of the cove where it hiy was distant two miles ; we were at about the siime distance from Lyttleton Island. The floes were tightly packed, and we found no diffi- culty in accomplishing our purpose. The depot was reached in an hour. It remained undisturbed ; evidently not having been discovered by the natives. The boat was turned bottom up, and under it lay the articles deposited there by Dr. Kane. These were, besides the oars and sail, two barrels of bread, one of pork, and another of beef; about thirty poimds of rice, the same quantity of sugar, a saucepan, an empty keg, a gallon can of alcohol, a bale of blankets, an ice anchor, an ice chisel, a gim, a hatchet, a few small poles, and some pieces of wood. We could not take much of this provision, since we were compelled to carry everything upon our backs. We, however, selected such articles as were most needed, and as coidd be most readily transported in this manner. These were, one barrel of bread, the saucepan filled with sugar, ten pounds of rice, the empty keg, the F 66 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. I i ! :i ' hatchet, the gun and tlie boat's equipment, inchuling the ice anchor and chi.' two poles, and a small bundle of wood. We needed b. j some of the pork for food, since our slush keg was getting low ; but we could not take it. Ascending the hill-side a little way, we observed that the eastern shore of Lyttleton Island was mainly free from ice, while the pack was locked upon its northern cape, and stretched up the west and north as far as we could see. From the l)each where we stood, to the open water of this island, was about a mile. It was fully double that distance to where our companions lay with the IIoj)e. Since we must drag the boat and carry the cargo, we chose the shortest distance, intending to reach Lyttleton Island, and there await tlie breaking of the storm, the loosening of the pack, and the arrival of the Hope. The boat was run down over .the ice-foot and dragged out upon the floes. The barrel of bread was swung upon an oar and carried by John and Godfrey. The smaller articles, oars, sail, &c., were brought on as we could manage them. The boat was light, and had the track been smooth we should have progressed well enough ; but after leaving the land-ice our route lay over a closely jammed pack of pieces of ice, of almost every shape and size ; some of them being a foot out of water, others ten feet. One moment we were hauling the boat up a precipice, the next letting her down over another. Added to this difficulty was the feeling of constant insecurity, for it would have been perfectly in character for the whole raft suddenly to take flight to seaward. We were con- ■^ LYTTLETON ISLAND. 67 n' IS it fioquontly compelled to keep our clifTerent articles^ a« near together as possible. First we carried forward tlio boat about a hundred yards, then piece by i)iece the cargo and equijmient. The same operation being re- peated about a dozen times, we reached finally, in six liours, the open water. By this time it Avas blowing a regular gale still from the north-east. The pack had partially broken, and some loose pieces were drilling rapidly down through the chaniu'l. To work between these driving masses was an operation attended with no little diliiculty. Once we came near being crushed. Lyttleton Island, which was at length reached, is the largest of the granite knobs which lie in a cluster at the south side of Life-boat Bay. It is about three quarters of a mile in diameter, and is separated from the main land by a channel about half a mile in width. We pulled down this channel to the south-west, and sought a lee on the southern side ; but no lee could we anywhere find. Reaching the extreme point we were met by a gust of wind which came howling through the narrow strait separating Lyttleton Island from McGary's Rock, driving us back to face a similar blast which came from the other side. Everything gave promise of a dirty night. The sky ■was overcast. Light clouds went flitting wildly across the sky, breaking now and then and disclosing a twink- ling star of the first or second magnitude. It was not dark, for the sun was not yet far beneath the horizon ; but a dull, gloomy twilight. Already we were wet to the skin with the dashing spray. The mercury stood at 22^, and the water was freezing upon our clothes. V 2 C8 AN ARCTIC llOAT JOURNEY. I We rmifjt citlicr land on tlio island, or mn Ix'forc tlio wind down under (ape; Olilscii, five niileH .sontli. This last would carry iw too far from our comrades of tlie Hope, and we determined t(> land on the island if |)os- Hil)Ie. Our metallic ))oat would stand a p;ood deal of thinn|)inle to forget, in like manner, all care and trouble ; but it was out of the question. Unal)le longer to bear the cold, I drew myself out from the sail, determined to thaw my frozen blood by a run about the island. John followed, muttering something like, " I believe they could sleep with their heads in a tub of water." I was nearly 1)1 own off as I clambered up the steep rocks, but I reached at length the level table above, and ran to and fro from east to west, and from west to east, for about an hour, until I had got pretty well warmed ; I then faced about and ran in the teeth of the gale to the north cape of the island. To the north, west, and south, the sea was dotted with bergs, loo^e himimocks, or streams of pack-ice, against w^hich the waves were lashing themselves into frosty foam. To the northeast I could trace the outline of the solid pack in one long line of dashing spray. There I had left four comrades. There they must have remained, but the mist and darkness were too great to permit me to detect them. It was now about midnight. I took another turn about the island and came back to the same spot. The wind was blowing less fiercely ; the clouds opened, and moved sullenly away ; and the Htars shone out in unobstructed beauty. The pack had separated, and great streams of ice were pouring down through the channel to the eastward, as through a sluice-gate. I went down to a point where I could command a full view of the channel and Avatched every piece of ice, expecting to see the Hope and her crew adrift. I had not looked long before I discovered something dark upon one of the floating fields. It was a '^y^-y 1 lie ad s'n a Id hv id a LOOKiNG FOR THE " HOrE." 71 man, and I soon made out that it was John. I called to him, but he either did not hear, or did not heed me. The tumult might well have drowned my voice. What he was doing there, or how he had got there, I coidd not imagine. He was standing in the middle of the crystal raft, with nothing around him but the raging waters which were breaking over it. Directly the iloe floated into the midst of a long stream of broken masses. The moment the collision came he sprang forward, and then away he went bounding from floe to floe, springing crack after crack with the fleetness of a deer. Once again I saw him adrift upon an isolated field, anO thus he must have floated several minutes, before the pack closed up. I watched him until he was lost to sight in the mist and spray and darkness. I had for some time entertained serious apprehensions for the safety of our comrades with the Hope, and the'^.^ apprehensions were sharpened by this incident. With these fears were now mingled anxiety for the safety of John. It was evident that he was not upon the ice by any accident, but designedly ; and I coiUd imagine nothing that would induce him to rim such a dare- devil's race, but to render assistance to Petersen and his party. He was making directly for the point where we had left them, as nearly as the elements would allow ; and I could give no other explanation of his conduct than that he had detected the party, had seen them in distress, and had run this risk to help them. Bonsall and Godfrey were at length frozen out of the tent and joined me on the hill. I communicated to them my fears respecting the party. I sent Godfri y to watch to seaward. Bonsall went to the north cape, and F 4 h I I 72 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. i I remained in my old position. The nig!"!! wore on ; daylight came slowly back ; the wind died away to a fresh breeze ; the sea was going down ; the spray leapt less wildly ; yet nothing could we see of the boat. At length a change of tide brought a change of scene ; the ice was set in motion ; the pack, which had so closely hugged the land, was loosened ; and it stretched its long arms out over the water to the west- ward. Broad leads ran through the body of it. Bon- sall's quick eye first detected something dark moving upon the water. " I see the boat," he shouted to me, — " Where away ? " — " Coming do"\vn through the in- shore lead." There she was, with all sail set, bearing directly for the island. By eight o'clock her party brought up on the south side of our encampment. I counted them as they floated by : one, two, three, four. Jive — John Avas there. The swell was still too high to permit them to touch the rocks with their fi-ail boat ; we therefore launched the metallic boat, and following them under oars, pulled around behind Cape Ohlsen. Here was found a snug little harbour with low shingly beach. The cargo was unshipped, and the boats were haided up at half- past eleven o'clock. The sun's slanting rays shone directly in upon us from the south ; the mer :ury went lip to 28°. Not a breath of air rippled the water. No surf beat upon the shore. What a contrast to the tumultuous scenes of yesterday ! From a little stream of melted snow Avhicli trickled down the mountain side, we filled our kettles ; the lamp was fired, and in an hour and a half the cook had ready for us a good pot of coffee, and a stew of the young eiders which, were lefl r I RE-UNION. 73 from the day before ; to which were added some pieces of pork, and a young burgomaster gull, which had been bhot on the way from Lyttleton Island. While this substantial breakfast was being eaten, we interchanged our stories of the night's adventures. Our friends had had a fearful night. Bad as had been our fortune theirs was incomparably worse. Soon after we left them, the protecting Hoes to the north shifted their position ; and from that time imtil the storm subsided, they were frightfully exposed. The waves rolled in upon them, frecpiently breaking over the floe on which they were, while the spray iiew over them continually. They wrapped the bread-bags in a piece of India-rubber cloth, and thus kept them tolerably dry ; but everything else became tlioroughly soaked, — clothes, buffldoes, and blankets, especially. They pitched their tent and tried to get some rest, but the water very soon drowned them out. They tried to cook some coffee, but the spray extinguished their lamp. They were thirty hours without water to drink, and during all that time they tasted nothiag warm, their sole provision being cold pork and bread. Their suffer- ing was great, and our tale sounded tamely enough after theirs. I questioned John why he had so recklessly exposed his life ; he " wanted to see what had become of them." He did not see them when he started ; had no certain knowledge as to where they were ; he only wanted to ^i look them up M AN AECTIC BOAT JOURNEY. CHAP. VII. ROUKDIJsG CAPE ALEXANDER. m i It was now the 6tli of September. Eleven days had been occupied in making about seventy-five miles. We were out of the strait, and seemed to be fi-ee of the ice. Before us opened Baffin Bay, disclosing no ice except here and there a straggling berg. In these arctic waters, channels like Smith Strait are the first to become locked upon the closing in of the winter, and the last to break up in the summer ; while the larger bodies, as Baffin Bay, remain mainly open until late in the fall, and indeed may be said never to close completely. The centre of the upper limit of Baffin Bay, the " North- Water " of the whalers, continues open throughout the winter. About Upernavik the sea is chiefly free from ice until late in October ; while the Melville Bay pack, to the northward of Upernavik, is in motion throughout the year. These facts were well known to us; and, although the winter was rapidly setting in, we confidently hoped for at least a month of navigable season. This hope was greatly heightened as we looked out upon the iceless sea, which stretched away to the south as far as the eye could reach. We congi'atulated ourselves that the hardest part of the journey was over, and we seemed to have some gi'ound for anticipating THE NORTH WATER. 75 that hcncefortli all would be plain sailing. How far these anticipations were realised, will be seen by what follows. With more spirit than had been shown on any pre- vious occasion, our people prepared for what seemed a final embarkation. We were thus occupied until six o'clock in the afternoon. The Hope needed repairs; the repeated strainnig to which she had been sul.^jected, by hauling her out of the water, and by dragging her over the ice, had opened her seams, and she leaked badly. For the life-boat we had no mast; and it was necessary to transfer to her the mainmast of the Hope. John made for her a snug little jib. Petersen, whose trade had been that of a cooper, and who was an excel- lent mechanic, acted as carpenter. The step of the fore- mast of the Hope was shifted two feet further aft, her seams were re-caulked, and the holes in her sides were repatched. Those who could not assist the carpenter and sail-maker in these operations, were at first engaged in spreading out to dry our water-soaked clothing ; which being done, they threw themselves upon the rocks to rest and to sleep. We were all worn out with the last thirty hours' constant labour and exposure ; but since there was a light breeze blowing outside, we could not afford to lose time by camping. Everything being ready, the boats were launched and stowed. The crews were distributed evenly between them. Petersen took the whale-boat, with Mr. Sonntag, George Stephenson, and George Whipple ; and I the life-boat, with Mr. Bonsall, John Blake, and William Godfrey. It remained anly to name the vessels. It was, I think, Mr. Bonsidl who suggested " Ironsides " 76 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. I'll li'-i 1 if! 11 for our craft ; and at the instance of Mr. Petersen, " Forlorn Hope " was changed to " Good Hope." We pulled out from under the land, to catch the wind which still blew lightly from the northeast ; and spreading our canvas we gave three lusty cheers for Upernavik, and stood away for Cape Alexander, which was fourteen miles distant. A watch was set in each boot. Petersen took the steering oar of the Hope, Jt)hn that of the Ironsides, and the rest of the crews crawled under their blankets and buffalo robes. Soon after our starting, an ominous cloud was observed creeping up the northern sky. As it spread itself over- head, the wind freshened, and after fluttering through a squall, settled into a heavy blow. The white-caps mul- tiplied behind us, and everything looked suspicious; but whatever might be our misgivings as to the fortime in store for us, out at sea in a storm, with our frail heavily laden boats, we could do nothing but hold our course, and take the risk^. To run back under the land which we had just left, did not at all accord with our tastes, nor with the nature of our undertaking. Off the larboard bow lay a long line of iron-bound coast, which offered no sign of a harboiu'. Come what might, we must keep on, and sink or swim off Cape Alexander. To be at sea in a snug ship with a deck under your feet, the wind roaring and the waves breaking about you, is a pleasure, and as the vessel bounds forward one scarcely feels that he is not in the most secure place in the world ; but it is quite a different affair in an open boat twenty feet long. As we ran out from the land, we obtained a fine view of Hartstene Bay. The coast which bounds it to the id THE BOATS OFF THE CAPE. 4 i lur ki, liie lin he north is liigli and precipitous, trending a little to the north of cast, and terminating in a large glacier, about twelve miles east of Cape Olilsen. The face of this glacier, dimly traceable in the distance, appeared to be about three miles in extent, sloping backward into an extensive mcr de glace. To the south of the glacier the land trends nearly parallel with the north shore for three or four miles, when it falls off to the south, terminating in another glacier hirger than the first, which, like it, sweeps back around the base of the momitains into the same glassy sea. From the southern extremity of this glacier the coast runs southwest, presenting an almost straight line of high, vertical jagged rocks, which end in the noble headland for which we were steering. Although closely watching the sheet, while John steered and Bonsall and Godfrey slept, I was yet at leisure to enjoy the magnificent scene which spread itself before me as we approached the cape. A parhelion stood in the sky on my right hand, presenting a j^erfect image of the sun above, and a faint point of light on either side. On my left lay the before-mentioned line of coast, its dark front contrasting grandly with the white sheet of ice a few miles further back, which seemed to be in the act of pouring down into the sea from some great inland reservoir. The sandstone rocks, at the base of the cliffs, were worn and w^asted by the frost and breakers, and looked like the ruins of some ancient castle or dismantled fortress. The waves which tossed the boat about seemed to be at jDlay ; and, aflcr licking their frothy tongues across her poop, they chased each other swiftly to the shore, where, breaking through the breaches in the wall, they threw their snow-white caps 78 AN ARCTIC EOAT JOURNEY. II * f about as if in triumph over the ruins that their revelries had made, and tlien came roaring down again into the sea. The wind continued to increase, and the waves to roll higher, yet we readied within a half mile of the northern extremity of the cape without accident, and shipping little water. Here the current, setting ipiiUy around the point, had produced an irregular and chopping sea. It became necessaiy to shorten sail ; we could not hold on at our present speed through such uncertain swells. Mr. Petersen took a reef without difficulty, and the Hope, admirably constructed for a heavy sea-way, doubled the cape in gallant style. The Ironsides was shorter, and much less manageable. Although laden with the heaviest articles of our cargo, she rode, in con- sequence of her large air-chambers, high out of the water ; and the stern-chamber embarrassed the steers- man. The watch was called up to lend a hand. The halyards were lowered away ; but the sprit was found to be a foot too long, and in the effort to shorten it by hitching it up, the point dropped from its thimble, the stick fell across the boat, and the sail flapped loosely in the wind. Bonsidl attempted to gather up the flying canvas, Godfi-ey grasped after the sprit, and John, in- stead of attending to his own business, watched them both. His oar flew out of the water, and the boat, no longer under its control, broached to. The next wave broke amidships and filled us. The air-cliambers, which had hitherto made the boat so crank, now solved us from sinking. The steersman was knocked down from his seat, and before he could regain his oar, and bring to by the in mg 111- em no ^ve cli cm his mg 1 THE LIFE-BOAT. 79 the boat into the wind, sea after sea had broken over us. Finding that they were not absohitely drowned, and that nothing worse could liappen tlian a good ducking, the men returned to their posts, and in a lew minutes the sail was reefed and set, and the boat righted. The increased load which she now carried sank her lower in the water, and in spite of all our efforts, there remained an imwelcome cargo ; for, as fast as we bailed out one portion, another poured in. Discouraged at length by our fruitless efforts to get her free, we gave up the at- tempt : and being now satisfied that the life-boat would not go down, we held on to the mast and gunwale to prevent the seas fi'om washing us overboard, and in this manner drilled around the cape. Here Ave were met by our consort. Her crew, fearful that we had swamped, were gallantly beating up in smoother water to our assistance. It was dead calm under the cape. After bailing out .some of the water, we took in the sails, unshipped the mast, and pulled over to Sutherland Island in search of a harbour. This little rock lies about three miles to the south-east of Cape Alexander. It was found to be precipitous on its northern and eastern sides, and un- protected to the south and west from the winds and waves which eddied around the cape. Finding no safe anchorage, we were compelled to pull back. By this time our people had become almost disheartened. We had been exposed to cutting blasts during the two hours which were occupied in circumnavigating the island ; the sun had sunk beneath the horizon, and it had grown fiO AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. pi IF I ik quite uaik. To make tlio annoyance worse, a, cold sleety rain Ix'f^an to fall. The tliernionieter stood at 21°. Our clolliinp^was stiffening on us like pasteboard. Our cramped limbs were almost rigid ; and the long- continued exertion, imder circumstances so depressing, had nearly exhausted our strength. It was as much as we could do to stem the wind and waves, as we rounded the north side of the island and struck out for the main land. The gale, broken by the cape, fell upon us in fitful gusts, Avhich often di-ove us to leeward. Then came a hill; the men *' gave way " with all the force which their paralysed muscles could command ; and we recovered our lost ground, and gained a few boat-lengths before the next squall struck us. Thus we continued to oscillate, gaining a little with every lull, until at last we were once more in smooth water ; and soon after, we lay under the high wall of the protecting headland. Then we crawled slowly down the coast, more for the purpose of keeping our- selves from freezing, than with the hope of finding a landing ; for the shore appeared to be everywhere pre- cipitous. Better fortune, however, awaited us than we anticipated. We had not gone more than two miles when we came suddenly upon a low point of granite rock, behind which lay the snuggest of little harbours. A faint cheer broke involuntarily fi-om the boat's crew when I announced to them the discovery. — " Here we are, Petersen ; a harbour ! A harbour, boys ; a har- bour ! Give way ! give way ! " We were soon ashore ; and as we looked out fi-oni the rocks on the foaming sea, and listened to the moan- A HARBOUR. 81 )m In- iiig v/iiid as it fell over the cliflfrt above us, and to the breakers thuiideriiip^ against the coast, wv had reason to be thankful that we were once again on terra Jirmn. The Ironsides was hauled upon the beach and capsized, to free her of her load of water. Petersen anchored the Hope with a couple of hciivy stones. Having no dry clothing to put on, we ran about until we were a little warmed and dried ; and then, pitching the tent, we spread over us oiu* water- soaked buffalo, and slept away fatigue and disiippointnient. Everything in tlic Ironsides was thoroughly wet. Among the articles of Ibod were a two-l)arrel bag of bread and our large bag of coffee. The cargo of the Hope was as dry as when put on board at Ca})e Ohlsen. She had behaved admirably, and had weathered the gale (juite comfortably. She shipped more water througii her leaky sides than over her gunwale. The wind lulled a little in the night, but rose in the morning, and increased again to a gale. The storm was too heavy to allow us to put to sea. The wind had hauled around to the north, and the swell came into our harbour. The anchorage of the Hope being thus rendered insecure, she also was dragged upon the beach. Our wet cargo was spread out upon the stones to dry ; and we awaited with much anxiety the breaking of the gale, which continued with unabated force through the day. The clouds had, however, cleared away, the sun shone brightly, and the thermometer went up to 30°. We seized the opportunity afforded by our detention to obtain the rest which we so much needed. A little blue fox, doubtless attracted by curiosity, came near the G " 88 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. mouth of tilt! tout, and, percliinp^ liiniHclf upon a rock, 8ft up his wild but clicery cry. reterHcn, witli an eye to tlic pot, fired at him, and sent liim, badly wounded, up the hill to die under a pile of .stones to which he esc[ij)e(l. Toward evening the wind abated a little, yet the waves rolled too high to make it wife for the boats ; and we reluctantly found ourselves compelled to spend an- other night where we lay. The discovery of the ibx gave us hope that others might l^e Ibund, and the hunters "Were busy, during the afternoon and evening, in clamber- ing over the rocky hills ; but they all returned un- successful. There were no signs of life about us. While some of the party were thus occui)ied, others were rambling about, seeking adventure, or gratifying tlieir curiosity. The coast here trends nearly due east, and, at about two miles from our encampment, terminatcL in a glacier. This stream of ice Avas visited by me in the afternoon, and by Bonsall and Sonntag later in the day. It was the first glacier protruding into the ocean which I had had ojoportunity to inspect closely ; and although small compared with other similar formations, it had nevertheless all their principal characteristics. It presented to the sea a convex mural face seventy feet in height and about two miles in length, its centre pro- jecting into the water beyond the general line of the coast to the east and west of it. Its surface rose by an abrupt angle to the height of about two hundred feet, and, sloping thence backward at a less inclination, seemed to be connected with an extensive mer de glace above , From where I stood, I observed several fissures or A GLACIER. 83 crevasses, apparently of great depth, running vertically through the IkxI}'' of it, and extending iUr up into [{a interior ; and others more shallow which seemed to have been formed by the streams of melted snow which poured in cataracts down into the sea. I was struck with its viscous appearance, as I had been before •with that of the inland glacier visited by me in the autunm of 1853, to which allusion has been made in a former chapter. Parallel with its convex face ran a succession of indis- tinctly marked lines, which gave it the aspect of a semi- fluid mass, moving downward upon an inclined surface; and this idea was more forcibly impressed upon me by its ajipearance about the rocks on either side. Over these it seemed to have flowed ; and, fitting accurately into all their inequalities, it gave the effect of a huge moving mass of partially solidified matter suddenly con- gealed. Keturning from the glacier, I mounted on my •way through a ravine to the top of the clifl's, where a fine view Avas had to the south and -west. Below me was the ruddy rock of Sutherland Island, with a chinmey- like peak at its eastern end, and a heavy belt of ice hanging on its northern side. To the south-south-east stood, as distinctive landmarks, the snow-crowned headlands of Saumarez and Eobertson. The tops of Northumberland and Herbert Islands, exhibiting alter- nate streaks of broAvn and white, lay in dim outline to the south. The sea was covered with foaming v.diite- caps. No ice was visible. I'lie sun's glaring disk, like a wheel of fire, rolled slowly northward, dipping so G 2 84 AN ARCTIC 330AT JOUHNEY. gently as to create the impression that it was revolving on the planp of the horizon. Its rays fell upon the hoary heads of the mountains behind me, and bathed in purple the long streaks of stratus clouds which hung over the dark waters. ng he in ng 85 CHAP. VIII. THE FLEET AT SEA. It was not until noon of the 8th of September that we broke np our encampment, and set out for Nor- thumberland Island. The wind blew fresh from the northeast, having now held from that quarter during four days. The sea was still rough. I took the first watch, and was relieved at four o'clock. When I came again on duty, four hours after- wards. Cape Alexander lay whole leagues behind us, and the capes and glaciers of the coast to our left were blended into one long, straight, streaked, white-capped wall, abruptly terminating in Cape Robertson. The boats were cutting through the water in glorious style. The Hope lay right abeam, and was climbing over the waves, and knocking the spray to right and left, in a manner Avliich it did our hearts good to see. There were no troublesome ice-fields in sight ; water — a great wide waste of swelling water — was all around us. The men were in high glee. The boats approached near enough to exchange salutations. " Isn't this glorious?" cried Whipple — " we have it watch and watch about ! " — " And so have we ! " answered Godfrey. — " We're shipping a gaLey, and mean to have some supper ! " said Stephenson. — " An^l we've got it done. Look there ! " G 3 I 86 AN ARCTIC BOAT J0I3BNEY. said John, flonris^liing in the air a pot of steaming cofTco. Our tars were in their element, and aHve again. Our felicity was short-lived. A few bergs soon showed their heads above the horizon ; and, as we ap- proached nearer, we found among them loose streams of ice, which compelled us frequently to change our coiu'se, but occasioned for a time no other embarrassment. At length, these streams became more dense, and in places were found cemented together with young ice. The night closed around us whilst we were dodging among these fields ; yet we managed to hold on, and, in spite of the darkness, to pick a tortuous passage ; and we brought up, at six o'clock on the morning of the 9 th, in a little cove on the north side of Hakluyt Island, having been eighteen hours on the way. After halting upon the rocks, long enough to cook and eat our breakfast, we again put to sea. A narrow stream, which lay against the western cape of the island, arrested our pro- gress for an hour ; but it opened as the tide changed. We then made for the southwestern cape of Northum- berland Island. Passing the south side of Hakluyt, we discovered the narrow channel, which separates it from Northumberland, to be closed with a heavy pack, which, joining the land, headed us off. Changing our course first to south, then to south-south-west, then to south- west, as the margin of the pack varied its direction, we held on until one o'clock in the afternoon, when we found ourselves about eight miles from Northumberland. Here the ice became more dense to the westward, but appeared to be open to the south-east. Entering a narrow lead v/hich ran in that direction, we continued for about half a mile. The lead was in places covered with a thin crust AMONG THE ICE. 87 of ice, the wind had died away to a light breeze, and we therefore made slow progress. The young ice was cutting the whaleboat badly. Reaching the end of this lead, and uncertain which way to turn, we hauled the boats alongside of a little berg, to the top of which I clambered in company with my brother-officers. This gave us an elevation of about fifty feet. The pack extended throughout the entire circuit, though in no place was it tightly closed. The selection of our course became now an important question. Either of two was open to us : to stick to the land, running thereby the risk of meeting the heavy ice, which always hugs the shore ; or to try the more immediately hazardous experiment of an outside passage. A short description of some of the physical features of this sea will better en.ible the reader to appreciate the critical nature of our position. Baffin Bay, or more properly Baffin Sea, is the great estuary through wdiich the polar ice of the American division of the Arctic Ocean is drifted into the Atlantic. This ice is poured into it through Lancaster, Jones, and Smith Sounds on the west and north. It receives, also, accessions from Whale and Wolstenholme Soimds on the east, and by berg- discharge from the numerous glaciers of both coasts. Added to these sources of sup- ply is the immense sheet whicli, dui-ing the winter, forms upon the surface of the bay itself. Its central portion, lying between Capes York and Bathurst on the north, and the Island of Disco and Cape Walsingliam on the south, forms the grand receptacle into which are poured the rafts which float down through the different channels. These accumulated masses constitute the O 4 88 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNET. " middle-ice," or " Melville Bay pack ; " the whole body of which is undergoing constant movement south- ward, discharging continually from its southern margin through Davis Strait into the Atlantic, and receiving proportionate accessions from the north. The great highway through which these accessions come, and into which they are first discharged from the above-men-, tioned channels, is styled by the whalers the " North- Water;" and in consequence of the rapid flow of the current southward, this, the north part of Baffin Bay, is, throughout the greater part of the year, mainly fi-ee from ice ; and, as stated in a former paragi'aph, it is never closed completely. We were now about midway between the usual northern margin of the Melville Bay pack and Smith Strait, on the Greenland side of the North-Water, and directly in the mouth of Wliale Sound. The pack which lay around us on every side, was doubtless made up of the discharges from this sound, and fi'om those of Jones and Smith, which, omng to some cause to me inexplicable, had not yet joined the middle-ice. This; pack lay separate and distinct from that of Melville Bay, leaving, in all probability to the south of the Carey Islands, a belt of open water, and thus dividing the North-Water into tWo parts. It will be seen that the navigation of this ice-encum- bered sea is necessarily peculiar ; yet, so long and care- fully have the movements of the ice been studied, that this navigation has been reduced to almost as great pre- cision and certainty as the navigation of the high seas. The whalers, who have for almost two centuries fi'e- ICE-NAVIGATION. 80 quented these waters, have always, at certain seasons oi' the year, adhered to the land, holding: on to what is technically known as the " fast ice." I allude now chiefly to Melville Bay ; in which deep indentation there is to be found, always early in the summer, and some- times throughout the entire season, an unbroken belt of ice, commencing at the Devil's Thumb, widening gra- dually as it approximates the centre of the bay, and narrowing again toward Cape York ; presenting an ir- regular, though, in its general trend, an almost straight, line from one to the other of these extremes. This belt it is, which is p/'operly designated as above men- tioned ; and in holding on to this, vessels are secure against the risks and embarrassments attendant upon the ever-shifting pack which lies to the westward, and which is, throughout the year, as already observed, undergoing a generally southward movement. To the north of MelviDe Bay, this " fast ice " does not exist with the same regularity, nor does it possess, at ary season of the year, the same characteristics as the "fist ice " previously described. The chief seat of the BafHn Bay whale-fishery is at Pond Bay, a little to the south of Lancaster Sound. To get to this once-profitable fishing-groimd, the whale- ships always take the Greenland side, in the manner above described, and after reaching Cape York, or Cape Dudley Diggs, run over to the westward ; but later in the season the " fast ice " becomes broken and insecure, and therefore, following the current southward, they return home down tlie American coast in September. Although at this late season of the year the whalers do 90 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. not liesitatc to throw themselves into the pack, yet they most scrupulously avoid it in the northward passage during the months of June and July. It was a question of the utmost importance to us to decide, whether we would follow the spring or the sum- mer plan of the Whalers. With a ship under us, our course would have been plain enough, but with only our boats, the case was dif'^rent. The winter was closing in rapidly. The young ice was forming whenever the wind I'ell to calm, and we were liable to be frozen up at almost any moment. The ice being in more constant motion in the centre of the bay, this danger was there less imminent ; bui there was no absolute safety any- where, if we should attempt to make our way along the coast, and should be there caught by the winter, we would have at least, a temporary lease of life. If, on the other hand, we should haul to the westward, and attempt to run down the centre of the strait, outside of the Carey Islands, while it was certain that we should have open water longer, and run less risk of being frozen up, yet, if frozen up, there would be no possible escape for us — we must speedily perish. We were, however, bound on a desperate adventure, and must use desperate means. Petersen was our ice-man, and the party had confid- ence in his caution and judgment. Beside him, none of us had, at that time, much knowledge of ice-movements or ice-navigation. Twenty years' constant experience had certainly given him some claim to the dignity of an oracle. He recommended the in-shore passiige. It was decided that we should hold our course to the eastward, and reach, if possible, Northumberland Island, trusting THE BOATS NirrED. 91 to find a lead over to Cape Parry, and thence doAvn tlie coast. In the neighbourliood of the island the ice appeared to be quite open ; but beyond this we could not determine anything with certainty. By the time that our conclusion was reached, there had fallen a dead calm ; the masts were therefore un- shipped, and we again took to our oars. The attempt was attended with much difficulty. The tide ran swiftly, and the ice was in rapid motion. The boats were fearfully exposed. We could find no regular lead, and had therefore to trust to the changes of the fields to give us a passage. The suddenness with which they sometimes closed together subjected us to frequent nippings, to escape which we were obliged, repeatedly, to toss our cargo upon the ice and drag up the boats. The back of the Hope was nearly broken by these operations ; her timbers were severely strained, and her seams were so much opened that one man was constantly employed in bailing. The Ironsides was dented in a dozen places, and her bilge was pressed in below the thwarts fully four inches, by a nip which she received while attempting to run the gauntlet of two closing fields. As we approached the island, the ice was found to be even more clo 3ly packed than outside, and in more rapid motion. There was no lead along the shore : the tide was against us. It was with the utmost difficulty that we could hold our place. Our efforts to advance were only sufficient to prevent our being drilled back. It was clearly no use to continue at this work, wearing ourselves out, endangering our boats, and, withal, mak- ing no headway. It was therefore determined to strike 92 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. more directly for the land, reach it if possible, and there camp, and reconnoitre from the mountains. Running now across the direction of the drift, the boats were in greater peril than before. We made our way by edging up diagonally against the current, boring through when we found an opening. We reached the land at seven o'clock in the evening, but could find no harbour. Discovering a point of rock projecting about twenty yards into the water, we drew in behind it, and were thus protected against the drift- ing ice while the boats were unloading. This done, they were again hauled upon the beach, beyond the tide-line. The tent was pitched upon a terrace, about thirty feet above the water, and about fifty yards from the beach. This terrace was covered with a thick sod of grass ; and the hill-side above, which sloped upward at an angle of forty degrees, to a red sandstone cliff, whose base stood three hundred feet above the level of the sea, was equally rich in vegetation. We had lighted upon a weary man's paradise. For more than two hun- dred yards, on either side, this green sward continued ; and we all agreed that nothing like it had been seen since we had lefb South Greenland, foui'teen months before. A blue fox was shot by one of the hunters, im- mediately after our landing ; and while the cooks were preparing him for supper, the rest of the party, forgetting their fatigue, rambled over the green hill-side, and, like colts in sjn'ing pasture, rolled themselves in the thick gi'ass. If the sight of this gi'een spot gave joy to our spirits, it held, too, treasures for our scurvy-riddled men. Knowing what was to be expected in such a locality, I THE GKEEN IIILL-SIDE. 93 took Mr. Bonwill with mo ; and we had not scarclicd k)ng before we were rewarded hy the discovery of some patches of cochlearia and sorrel, in sufficient (quantity to satisfy the wants of a hundred men. Tlu; i)lants were only slightly wilted by the frost ; and their juicy stalks, which grew in some places three or four inches in length, were plucked and eaten by our people with a ravenous zeal that told how badly we stood in need of something fresh and green. Stephenson and Whipple carried their caps full of it to the cook, who boiled it with his fox, and made us such a supper as we had not had since we left New York. Although disappointed of getting on iri our course, the spirits of our people were better, after this hearty feast, than they had been at any time since leaving the brig. They declared that they felt the cochlearia in their very bones. It was midnight when we retired to our tent, having previously set a watch, to be relieved every two hours, with directions to keep a close look-out upon the ice, and to give the alarm in case it showed any signs of opening. The moon shone out brightly, the air was calm, and the thermometer stood at 30°. 94 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUENEY. CHAP. IX. NORTHUMBERLAND ISL.VND. When we awoke, the sun was shining brightly upon us ; the air was warm. So long had we been accustomed to this arctic climate, that we had almost forgotten that there was such a thing as summer. This noon-day heat brought it to our i-ecollection, and it felt quite sultry, with the thermometer in the shade standing at 36°, and in the sun at 73°. The ice remained nearly the same as on the previous evening. There being clearly no chance, for the present, of getting on, we embraced the opportunity to dry our wet cargo. The boat-sails were spread upon the grass, and on them were poured the contents of our water-soaked bread and coffee bags. The buffalo skins, and blankets, and clothing, were treated in a similar manner. We also overhauled the boats. The Hope was much damaged, and it was found necessary to recaulk her. Her tin sheathing had been, in places, loosened, or torn off, and required to be tacked on again. The metallic boat was not materially injured : her sides needed only to be beaten out straight. Those to whom was assigned the duty of sujoerintending the drying of our cargo, having A WALK TO THE CLIFFS. 95 linisliod tlicir work, returned to tlie hill to feast again on the coclileuria. In tlie afternoon Mr. Bonsiill and myself set out to clinilj the mountain for a view. Bonsidl carried his gun with the hope of getting a shot at one of the foxes, which were heard barking in the cliffs above us. We started up the shore, and, the tide being at its ebb, we walked along the beach, sometimes picking a passjige among the cakes of ice which lay stranded by the retiring waters, sometimes clambering over the rough knobs of porphyritic rock, which here and there croj)i)ed out, or edging along the face of a low slate-stone cliff, which, deeply worn and wasted, l)ore evidence of the destructive powers of the fi'ost and sea. A heavy ground-swell was rolling up at our feet, tossing the ice about in tumul- tuous confusion. We had gone nearly a mile before we found a break in the cliffs ; then, climbing up the stony slope, we emerged at length upon a broad plateau, five hundred feet above the level of the ocean. To the lefl lay a glacier which ran down into the sea ; to the right stretched the long line of cliffs, under which we had travelled ; and before us rose a low, rounded-topped mountain. We walked parallel with the cliffs until we came l^ack oppo- site to our encampment. Advancing then to the edge of the precipice, a charming sight broke upon our gaze. Far beneath our feet lay the green hill-side, appearing, as we looked down upon it, almost like a level plain, the slope increasing the perspective distance and in effect doubling the dimensions of the field. The tent lay at its farther edge; strewn around were our travelling accoutrements. One of oui' companions was manoeuvring '! 96 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. along the hasc of tlic cliffs to get a shot at a ger-flilcon, which constantly eluded liis stealthy vigilance. Flitting from rock to rock, screaming wildly all the while, the n()l)l(! bird of l)rey manjiged to hold a middles course between two tires - li'om above and from beneath — without abandoning his favourite haunt. Others of the party were ])asking in the sun, asleep upon the lawn ; while one individual was stretched out at full length, feasting in the " garden," as we called the patch of cochlearia. It was a gypsy-like camp, and, viewed separately from its surroundings, was altc^gethcr a most unarctic scene. "We were as much disheartened by what lay beyond as delighted by what lay beneath. Before us, to our right and to our left, was ice, ice, ice. We could see full forty miles ; and, although not able to determine posi- tively the condition of the water for more than twenty, yet what we saw assured us that a probably impenetrable pack Lay in our way. To the southwest, toward the Carey Islands, whose tops were dimly visible, the sky in- dicated open water, which seemed to rim in toward Saunders Island, whose long, flat, white roof, supported by a dark vertical wall, appeared above the horizon to the south. Under Cape Parry was a large open area, from which diverged seveml narrow leads, like the fingers of an outspread hand, toward Northumberland. One of these leads came up within four or five miles of our camp ; but inside of it all was tightly closed. Below Cape Parry several small leads appeared, and much open water seemed to lie along the land. Although this pack was in fact the same that had baffled Dr. Kane in July and August, yet its existence THE PACK. 97 liorc Hiirpriscd mo ;is it h.-ul him. It hiu\ iicvor bccMi nott'd Ix'forc. Our ti-uck liad Ix'rii tnivcrscd l>y liuflin and Hyiot in AHr(; were yet twenty days of September ; and, although signs of win- ter had been about us ever since we left the brig, yet it was now much warmer here than atKensselaer llai'bour a month eai'lier. Altogether, September promised more of summer than of winter. It was with mingled feelings of hop'^ and discourage- ment that 1 started to return. These fecilino-s were shared by my companion, who, like myself, could not, without a shudder, think of the ])rospect of undertaking to bore the pack at this late season ; and yet to put back for the brig was a thought ecpially unwelcome. Apart fi-om any feeling of pride, it was evident that to turn back not only would involve the certain loss of that relief which we sought, but, by nearly doubling the vessel's crew, would induce that very condition of ill health to f I 98 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. prevent" whicli was one of tlie reasons for our leaving the vessel. However, we had yet some days before us to watch ;ind wait ; and if, in the end, we were forced to retreat, w<3 should then have at least the witisfaction of knowing that we liad done our duty. We had had nine- teen days of as constant hard striving against the ele- ments as could be reasonably asked of us. If there was not at least some chance («md at present none appeared) of getting through the pack, it would be madness to enter it farther. We determined, therefore, to have the mo<^ter discussed in a formal council, of the men as well as the officers ; and, after Petersen should have demonstrated what he knew of the laws of ice- movements, and the nature of the seas to the south of us, then to call for a vote, and let the party thus decide the choice of risks : namely, to wait and take the conse- quences, or to put back while it remained possible so to do. All had a right to be consulted on such an occasion, however the impulses of a few mig..l prompt to a con- tinuance of our journey. To undertake to winter where we were, or anywhere upon the coast, which we must do in case we should not be successful and our retreat should be cut off, seemed like folly. We had barely food to last us eighteen days, and fuel for less than half that time. That the Esqui- maux lived somewhere, and somehow, we knew ; but where, or how, we did not know, nor could we imagine. Thus far our guns had bi-ought us nothing of consequence. We had seen several seals, and had got within thirty yards of one of them, but the rifle missed its aim. We had passed a school of wjdrus, but we had no harpoon, and our bullets would noi: pierce their hide. The birds. A FOX-CIIASE. 99 which swarm upon the shores and waters during the summer, had brought forth their young, and had flown away. We had seen only a few foxes, and not a single bear. Petersen, whose experience as a Greenland hunter enti- tled him to judge of the resources which would probably be opened, desponded at the thought of wintering, when I talked with him about the contingencies against which we must provide, as far as we were able. We sought along the cliff a place where we might descend, and came at length upon a gorge which sloped down between two precipitous walls to the lawn, a little to the east of our encampment. As we were commenc- ing the descent, a fox was seen scampering away over the plain. Bonsall gave chase, but could not. get within shooting distance. Another was heard barking over- head at us when we reached about half-way down. I took the gun, and, climbing back over the huge boulders which filled the bottom of the gorge, tried, by crawling behind a rock, to approach him ; but he seemed to be aware of my intentions, and scampering away, led me a wild chase across the plain over which Bonsall had be- fore run. The cunning animal first made off, so that I could not corner him uj)on the cliff; and, when out of danger, perched himself upon a stone and barked at me until I came within long range, when, as I was about to bring my gun to my shoulder, he dropped beliind the stone and fled to another, where he set up tlie same wild chatter, — a shrill " huk ! huk 1 huk ! " — which sounded like a mixture of anger and defiance. I tried again to approach him, but with no better success : he ran round and round me until at length, becoming weary with following him, I fired. Some shot must have U 2 100 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. touched him, for lie .screamed as if half murdered, and flew away as fast as his little legs would carry him. We reached the camp at six o'clock in the evening, tired and foot-sore. We found some of our companions seated on the grass-plot, near the tent, smoking their pipes and playing " forty-fives," as unconcernedly as if they were already at home. Danger, and the hard pros- pect before them, seemed furthest from their thoughts. Sonntag was busy writing a geological description of the island. Petersen was out hunting. They had not, however, been idle at the camp during our absence, as was shown by a pile of cochlearia, which lay near by. Th(!y were only waiting for us to bring them in something more substantial for supper, to start the fire. They had found along the shore, half a mile below, a little glacier, over which poured a stream of crystal water, from which they had filled the kettles. This discovery came most opportunely ; for we had hitherto, since landing on the island, been obliged to melt ice, thus consuming rapidly our fuel. Petersen came in soon after, like itS, empty-handed. He liad seen several foxes, but could not get near them. We were compelled, therefore, to fall back again upon our rapidly vanishing stock of pork and bread, of which, with the addition of some cochlearia, John made us an excellent scouse. To this he added our never-failing source of comfort — a pot of coffee. While the plates were passing around, the subject of advancing further was introduced. Petersen's obser- vations coincided with Bonsall's and my own. The party received the intelligence with a coolness quite THE COUNCIL. — THE RESOLVE. 101 cl aracteristic ; and, when the possible contingency of being compelled to turn back was put beibrc* tlieni, the response was most gratiiying. I knew, beforehand, that the views of Messrs. Sonntag and Petersen accorded with those of Bonsall and myself. Whipple made quite a neat little speech, which I wish that I could record literally. I give it as nearly as I can remember it : " The ice can't remain long, — Fll bet it opens to- morrow. 'Che winter is a long way off yet. If we have such luck as we have had since leaving Cape Alexander, we'll be in Upernavik in a couple of weeks. You say it is not more than six hunared miles there in a straight line. We have food for that time, and fuel for a v/eek. Before that's gone we'll shoot a seal." It was a right gallant and hojjcful little speech, and " Long George " (as his messmates always cajled him) looked quite the hero. It reflected the spirit of the party ; and it is one of the pleasantest recollections of my life that, notwithstanding nineteen days of danger and suffering, during Avhich they iiad been wet, cold, and oflen half famished, tlu? men vvho were my companions did not qurjl at this crisis. In order that the nature of our situation might be more f'-^ily understood, Mr. Sonntag brought out liis charts ; and after we had carefully discussed together the difficulties and dangers on every hand ; the possible chances of our success, and the probable chances of our being caught in the ice ; and having all arrived at a full comprehension of the uncertainties which were before us, and our facilities for availing ourselves of the temporary security whicii was behind us, a formal vote H 3 I !l ^^ K2 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. was then taken upon the question, "Whether we should go back, or wait and go on with the slightest opening." There was but one voice in the company. — " Uper- navik or nothing, then it is ! " " That's what I mean ! " — " and so do I ! " were the prompt responses. — ^- The thing was settled. 103 r- I !8. CHAP. X. AT SEA IN A SNOW STORM. I FKAR that I am prolonging this history beyond the limit which my readers will consider reasonable, even for r* merely personal narrative ; but I find the temp- tation to detail almost irresistible, as the recollections of the past crowd upon my memory. I will be more brief with the next few days. September Wth. — The ice drifts rapidly out of the sound, opening wider the leads toward Cape Parry and the south-west ; but it is closing up more tightly against the south-east corner of the island. The floes have left the shore opposite our camp, and w^e could put to sea and make some headway toward the Carey Islands ; but this is not the course we have determined upon pur- suing. We could not advance more than half a mile in the direction of the mainland. Godfrey has shot a fox, and he reports having seen several others among the mountains. Petersen brought down a young ra\ en ; it is not good, but we must eat it and save our pork. The sky is overcast, and the temperature has gone down to 25°. The air remains calm. September XWi. — The ice remains close to the land below us, but is still loose off the camp. It continues to H 4 104 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. i drift out of the channel, and moves toward the south- Avest. The clouds and mist have cleared away ; the sun shines out brightly ; and the thermomcitcr comes back at noonday to 35*^ in the shade, and to 72° in the sun. We W(!i'e surprised about noon by the appearance ol" an Esquimaux, lie came up the beach, and was as much astonished as oursc^lves. We recognised him as one of those who were at the ship last winter. His name was Amalatok. After exchanging salutations, he seated himself upon a rock with a cool dignity quite characteristic of his people, and began to talk in a rapid and animated manner. He was dressed in a coat made of bird-skiuvS, feathers turned inward; bear skin panta- loons, hair outward ; tamied seal-skin boots, and dog- skin stockings. He told us that he lived on the eastern side of the island ; that he had a wife, but no children ; that his brother, who had a wife and children, Hved with him ; and that they had been visited by whit men (hfblmiet) not long since. They were evidently the same people whom Dr. Kane had met on his south- ern journey in August. Judging from our visitor's description, his house was distant irom our camp about three miles. It could be reached, he said, only by climbing over the mountain, which was a difficult un- dertaking ; or by walking along the beach at low tide. He carried in his hand two little auks, a bladder filled with oil, a coil of seal thong, and two or three pieces of lialf-putrid wah'us ilesh. lie was on an excursion round the island to set fox-traps ; and the flesh was intended for bait. While talking with us, he took up one of his auks, twisted off the head, and, inserting the index finger of his right hand under the integuments of » I TlIK ESQUIMAUX A:MALAT()K. 105 » \ \i the nock, drew it down tlic hack, — and in an instant the bird was skinned, lie tlien ran his long tlmmb- nail along the breastbone, and as (|uickly produced two fine fat himps of flesli, which he generously offered to anybody who would take tlieni. lie evidently intendcHl a great courtesy ; l)ut the raw meat coming from such hands and treated in this maimer was not to our liking. Petersen explained to him that we liad just breakfasted, and begged, most politely, that he would not rob him- self. It did not j)lease him that we declined his hos- pitality ; which was evidently kindly meant, and was bestowed in a manner which sliowed ]>lainly that he felt the importance of proprietorship. He did not wait for further invitation, and took his lunch with a gusto quite refreshing to see, wasliing it down witli a drink of oil wliich, in turn, he offered to us ; but again we were compelled to commit the discourtesy of declining the proffered attention. The remainder of his oil, which furnished us fuel for cooking two meals, the other bird, and the coil of thong, we purchased of him for three needles. He had, he said, no stock for his whip, and he begged for a j)iece of wood. We gave him a splinter from a piece of board, which we carried to patch the boat in case of accident. Notwithstanding his greasy lace, matted hair, ragged dress, and disgusting propen- sity to drink oil, he was the most decent-looking native I had yet seen. Ceremonies over, Petersen questioned him respectin'; the resources of the island, and the condition of the ice to the eastward. He told us that to the eastward there was much open water ; and that his brother had cap- tured a walrus, and would probably trade some of it for 106 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOnUNKY. • ■Hfl a knifo. I'cicrson, acc()my)<'ini(>(l by (lodfrry, set nut immetliatcly in scarcli of the scttli'iucnl ; Imt tlu; Es- quimaux, boiiif^ ii.lcnt upon examining tlicmulfitude of curiouH tilings of wliicli lie found us possessed, could not be indu('(!d to aecouipany him. Kn()win««; from ex- perience! the- light-fingered propensities of his race, we watched him closely. Petersen camc! back in a couy)le of hours, accom])anied by a woman and a boy. The woman was the wife of Amalatok, wlio still reuiained with us. She a])})eaTed to be twice his age, and Avas ugly beyond description. The boy was cpiite a good-looking, vSprightly, thieving rascal, and h( r nephew. They had been met on the way, and ujion being told what was wanted, the woman replied that her husband's brothcT, Avith his wif(! and entire family, was setting fox-traps on the north side of the island, and that she could not su])ply him with any- thing before seeing her husband. Petersen coaxed and persuaded, but to no purpose ; and he was reluc- tantly compelled to return to the camp. Our newly foimd friends lell us in th(! evening, in time to get home before the tide came in. Petc^rsen Avould have gone with them, but it was not thought prudent, as the ice showed signs of loost^ning. The sun went down through a calm, cloudless atmosphere. As it sank below the horizon, the moon brightened ; and first one star, and then another, and another, twinkled in the gray sky. A heavy, ice-incumbered swell rolled up the b(!ach, and its long, deep pidsations broke the stillness of the night. September IWi. — No change in the ice. This state of inactivity greatly affects our spirits. Every hour is COC!IILEARIA. 107 precious, and it is linrd to h(! kopt thus closely im- prisoned. It is wonderful liow tin* fine weatlier liolds ; notliing like it was (!ver experienced at Rensselaer Ilarhour, even in midsummer. The pe(>j)le an>ns(! tliemselves in wan- dering^ about the green, in |)Iiieking and eating coch- learia, or in lounging about the canip, smoking their pipes; sometimes relieving th(^ monotony with a game of whist, or in sewing up the rents in their dilapidated clothing; casting now and tlu'u wistful glancM's on the Hea, and wondering impatiently " when tin; ice will open?" Petersen shot a fox and a young burgomaster- gull; the former was secured, but the lattc^rfell into tlie sea and floated away with the tid(^ Althougli the men suffer morally, they improve physically. The cochlearia has drivc^n from their systems (>very trace of scurvy ; and the few good meals of fhish animal food which we have eaten liave built up all of us and filled out our cadaverous clu!eks. September \Ath. — This is our fifth da) upon the is- land. Everything has been put in complete order. Our coffee and bread arc; tlioroughly dried. The ice showed some signs of opening in the morning, and I went with Mr. Sonntag to the top of the cliffs, for a better view. Our hearts bounded with delight. To the south and west the pack was loose ; below and about Cape Parry the coast appeared to be mainly clear; very little ice was to be seen up the channel; the flo(^s which had vso long Inigged the island were giving Avay. Wc; returned hastily to the camp with the joyful int(!llig(!nce, and commenced packing up. Bon!-«ill and ]*etersen were absent, hunting. They came in as we were 108 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. beginning to Htow the boats, liuving also seen the sud- den c]iang(;. Each of th(^ni haa (.iptured a fox. At four o'clock, P.M. we pushed off ^ - in the sliore, and pulled straight for Cap(! Parry. The fine aununer weaflier, which had bkvssed us during our stay on the island, was now gone. The sky was clear, arul the air sofb and balmy early in the day ; but one of the mists peculiar to these cold waters settled over us wliile we wen; j)reparing to embark; and as we stepped into the l)oats it began to snow. The cape for which we had steered was, in less than half an hour, invisible ; and even the loom of the land we had just left was lost. A great white curtain shut out from view everything but the dark water under us. The tennpe- rature was at 24°. The snow was making, upon the surface of the sea, a thick, licyvy sludge, which greatly retarded the boats, and iiiade the labour of re ^-^ing ex- cessively severe. Having now no landmarks by which to s^eer, Mr. Sonntag brought out the compass, which hitherto we had had no occasion to use ; but, to our keen disap- pointment, it was ibund to be so sluggish as to be utterly unreliable. The needle stood wherever placed, within a range of eight points. Striking a mean be- tween the extremes, we applied the necessary connection for variation, and held on. At length we struck some ice-fields, and in working through them became com- pletely bewildered. The compass was condemned by genei-al consent. Petersen declared that it was leading us into " the pack," of which no whaler had ever greater horror chan himself; Bonsall thought that we were steering in the opposite direction, up the channel ; ADiarr on an ice-uaft. 109 Stcplionson dechui'd tliut \vv w(>n^ poinp; in a ciirlc ; and nobody thought that we were going right. In this state; of ophiion, it was (kicnud most prudent to halt and wait for better \veath(;r. Discovering a [)iece of okl ico, wlioso Hurface fh)ated about two f(!('t a])ove tlie water, we pulitid alongside", and moored the boats. Tlic tent was pitched U])oii one corner; and, after shaking the snow from their backs, all, except (iodfrey and my- self, who remained without, crawled inside. Our float- ing ice island was about twelve feet square. By this time it had grown (juite; dark. A more gloomy prospect lor a night's adventure can scarcely be imagined, drifting as w(; W(!re on a crystal raft, Ave knew not wliither. We were cold, wet to the skin, covered with ice, and cruelly disappointed. Our boats were literally filled by the snow, which continued to fall faster and faster. We could not imwrap our bed- ding without getting it wet ; and we were, therefore, compelled to huddle together in the tent, and to keep one another w^arm as best we could. We collected some of the newly fallen snow ; and, although every- thing was so damp that we could scarcely ignite the lamp and keep it burning, yet the cook managed, in about one hour, to melt a kettle of water, and in an- other to j)roduce a pot of coffee. This warmed us, and dispelled the melancholy which had settled over the party. The night wore slowly away. Of course we could not sleep. The watch tramped up and down the few feet of space which lay between the tent and the water, and was relieved every hour. The tent w^as tightly closed, and the smoke of the pipes brought up the 110 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. tompcniture a few dcgi-coH. At one time it reached 30°. That we should feel despondent under th(! circum- stanees was, p('rhuj)S, quite natural ; ])Ut now, as on other occasions, there was exhibited in the; party a courage whicli triumphed over the distressing lortunes of tlie day. Stories, such as sailors alone can tell, followed the coffee, and interrupted the monotonous chattering of teeth ; and Godfrey, who had a penchant for negro melodies, broke out from time to time with scraps froui " Uncle Ned, " in all its vai'iations, " Susan- nah, " and " I'm off to Charlestov/n, a little while to stay. " Petersen recited some chapters from his boy- life in Copenhagen and Iceland ; John gave us some insight into a " runner's " life in San Francisco and Macao ; Whi])ple told some horrors of the forecastle of a Liverpool packet ; but Bonsall drew the chief applause, by " Who wouldn't sell a farm and go to sea ? " A strange mixture of men crowded the tent on that little frozen raft, in that dark stormy night of the Arctic Sea ! There were a German astronomer, a Baltimore seaman, a Pennsylvania farmer, a Greenland cooper, a Hull sailor, an East Kiver boatman, an Irish p.«,triot, and a Philadelphia student of medicine ; and it was a singular jumble of human experience and adventure which they related. We were near being precipitated into the water during the night. An angle of the raft on which rested one of the tent poles, split off; two of the men who lay in that corner were carried down, and their weight was almost sufficient to di-ag the others overboard. Fortu- nately the bottom and sides of the tent were fast to- TTIC ADVENTURES OF A MfJIIT. Ill gethcr, or two of us at leant would have gone into tlu; sea. September \hth. — The air eli^ared a litth? as the morning dawned ; and, althougii it continued to snow violently, we were conseious of being near soini^ large object, which loomed high through the thick atmo- sphere. Whether it was land or an iceberg we could not make out. We were soon in the boats, and j)uinng towards it through tlu; thin ice and shidge. liclbre its character became ch;ar, wc; were within a hundred yards of a low sandy beach, cov(>red with bovddcu-s. Two burgomaster-gulls flew overhead while we were break- ing through the young ice along the shore ; and they were brought down by the unerring gun of Petersen. These sup2)lied us with food, of which we stood greatly in need. The boats were drawn up al)ove the tide ; and Ave ])il(!d the cargo together on the rocks, and covered it with one of the sails. The tent was pitched near by ; and with another sail an awning was spread in front, to shelter the cook and to protect the lamp. This pre- caution was well timed, for it soon l^egan to blow hard from the south-west, the wind being accompanied with liail. We brought our clothes-bags under the awning, and changed our wet garments before retiring to the tent. We had reason to congratulate ourselves upon having borne the sufferings of the previous night rather than expose the buffalo-robes, which were now found to be quite dry ; and never did hungry, cold, and tired men enjoy anything more than we enjoyed the luxury of such means of warmth. We were soon fast asleep. 112 AN ARCTIC EOAT JOURNEY. 1 ! N I ; Meanwliile, Jolm Avas braving the cold, and the eddies of snow wliicli came wliirling into his extempore kitchen. lie must have been exposed during several hours; six, according to his own account. He certainly suffered enough to make the number seem to him twelve. Poor fellow ! he was almost frozen ; his face and hands were blackened with soot, and from his eyes were run- ning great tears, which were forced out l)y the blinding smoke that he was compelled to confine within the galley, by closing up the sail in order to protect the lamp against the wind. Notwithstanding his care, the ilame was blown out no less thnn five times; and the reader will appreciate how great was the annoyance, if he has ever tried to strike a spark in a little box of light tinder, which he held between his legs, and endeavoured to protect with his body, — every moment expecting that a dril'ting snow would pour down upon and spoil it, or a whiff' of wind come and carry it away. Once he was about halt an hoiu^ relighting his lamp, which had been blown out when the pot over it was nearly boiling. The tinder was damp, jind he could not, for a long time, make it take fire ; and when he succeeded, and was getting ready a brimstone match, the wind scattered the con- tents of his box over tlie £2:round. He had then to hunt to the bottom of his bag for a little I'oll of charred rags, which he was fortunate enough to lind not wetted. By the time he had succeeded in relightiiig the fire, the con- tents of the kettle were covered over Avith a crust of ice. Fortunately John, whatever might 1,k' liis faults, was not easily conquered by difficulties, or Ave should have been deprived of our meal ; lor (xodli-ey, Avho alone of the party equalled the otlier as cook, lacked his dogged I THE COOK IN TROUBLE. 113 perseverance. Everytliing, therefore, depended upon John. At length, at three o'clock in the afternoon, he aroused us, and served to us a plentiful stew of fox and bm-gomaster. We had not tasted food for more than four and twenty hours. While we were engag(»d with our meal, our tent was almost blown over. Some time elapsed before everything could be made safe. An additional guy was placed on the windward side, and those at the ends were fastened to heavier stones. The awning was also tightened ; and everything being thus rendered apparently secure, we once more drew our heads under cover. We could do nothing for our brave cook but give him some dry clothing, the best place in the tent, and our thanks. It was still snowing hard ; the wind had increased to a gale, and as it went moaning above the plain, it carried up intv^ the air great white clouds, and pelted merci- lessly tho side of our tent with sleet and hail. I put my head out of the door ; I could not see fifty yards. The boats were nearly covered by a great drift, and our cargo was almost buried out of sight. It was not due to ourselves that we were not at sea in that fearful storm. We knew not even where we were. We came by no will of our own. There was a Providence in it. By con- ice. was Kive ic of II \ 114 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. CHAP. XI. ACROSS WHALE SOUND. The storm broke at about midnight, but the sky remained overcast during the following day. We turned out early in the morning, and looked around us to ascertain our position. Everything was wintry. Deep snow-drifts lay along the shore and under the hill. Our tent was nearly buried. Above us rose a dark cliff, on the south of which was a steep declivity, from which the snow had all been blown into the deep valley on the margin of which we were encamped. The ice had been driven in hj the gale, and was pressed tightly against the shore. The coast of the mainland, terminating in Cape Parry, lay on the left, and Northum- berland Island on the right. We had drifted far up Whale Sound, and now occupied Herbert Island, — at least such was our conjecture. There appearing no prospect of our being able .'■ put to sea, I took a gun and, accompanied by Godfi'cy, set off up the valley in search of game. After a toilsome journey through the deep snow, we reached the table- land which i'ornis the culminating ridge of the island. There our views respecting our positiDU were confirmed. The ice-pack filled up the channel and extended far to the south-west. I BURGOMASTER-GULLS. 115 AV^e reached the camp late in the afternoon ; having seen, l)iit not captured, a fox, and having discovered the footmarks of a hare. Petersen liad liad better foitune. He was sleeping soundly in the tent, after dinner, when he was aroused by one of the men calling to him that a flock of " burgomasters " were floating in a pool a little way up the beach. Eunning hastily out, witliout stop- ping to dress, he killed and secured nine oiit of eleven. The materials for two good meals were thus added to our commissiiriat. What we most needed, was tiiel. There remained only a few pounds of the fat Avhich had been brought from the ship for such use. This we were saving for an emergency ; and during the last few days we had been burning pork, confidently expecting to capture a seal or a walrus, and thus to secure a good stock of blubber; but hitherto we had been uniforndy disappointed. Several of these animals had been ob- served, but they were so shy that ne ct)uldnot approach them. The Ibxes had exhibited the same timidity. Many of these, as already stated, had been discovered on Northumberland Ibland, and I was puzzled to explain the cause of their shyness. Petersen declared that a little fellow whom he wounded soon after landing, had told his comrades of the murderous character of our guns, and that thus forewarned, they kept clear of us ! At all events, be the cause what it might, they sustained the recantation of their race for cunning. The readiness of the seals to tjike alarm I could more easily luider- stand, for a relentless war is waged against them by the natives. They are often wounded, and escape from their pursuers ; while the foxes, taken only in traps, never live to tell tales. The product of our guns, thus I 2 116 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. 0\ I i fur, had boon eighteen burgomaster-gulls, twelve eider duclvH, novcn foxes, and one raven, — in all, about forty - eight j)ounds. We had obtained, besides, from the hut at Anoatok, eight poiuids of walrus meat, half of which remained to us ; but the great question now was, how should we procure material for fire ? If necessiiry, wo could eat, uncooked, such food as we miglit have ; but how, without fire, should we obtain water ? for, hence- ibi'th, we must mainly depend upon melting the snow or ice. In the afternoon Mr. Sonntag was fortunate enough to find a little rivulet, from which the kettle was filled. This enabled us in the evening to obtain, a cup of coffee, which luxury the scarcity of our fuel would otherwise have compelled us to deny ourselves. The day was calm, for the most part ; but as the sun went down, the wind blew again from the south-west. Temperature, 1 was too much fatigued to make the circuit of the island ; and I am, therefore, not able to add anything to the chart of Captain Inglcfield, who, in the little steamer Isabella, ran up the channel in August 1852. The cliffs above us were composed of sandstone and slate, resting on primitive rock, Avhich was visible near our camp. About a quarter of a mile above us were dis- covered two well built Esquimaux huts, which appeared to have been recently occupied. Hoping that fortune would continue to favour our effort, we retired again lo our tent, and awoke on the following morning to find that the wind had hauled around to the north-east, and that the clouds were breaking away. By one o'clock, p.m., it was quite clear. The thermometer went up to two degrees above the .1 I (( our dis- ■ared t IIUK ! IIUK ! IIUK I " 117 freezing point ; the ice was giving way, and long loads were opening through it, in every direction. A narrow belt of heavy floes joined together by young ice, unfor- tunately lay close along the shore ; otherwise we could have launched our hoats at two o'clock. To break through this belt would have occupied us until night ; and d(!eming it imprudent again to trust om-selves in the darkness to an uncertain channel, we concluded to remain where we were, and to start fresh with the early morn. The morn broke upon us bright, clear, calm, and summer-like. The young ice, neither strong enough to bear nor frail enough to yield easily, seemed for a time likely to baffle us ; but by breaking it up with our boat- hooks and poles, we fuially succeeded in effecting our escape ; not, however, until an hour after the sun had passed the meridian. The way appeared to be free toward the mainland, for which we pulled. After we had been under oars a couple of hours, a light breeze sprang up from east-north-east ; once more our canvas was spread, and our ears were again gladdened by the music of gurgling waters, as the boats rushed onward through the rippled sea. We struck the coast at about twenty miles above Cape Parry. Passing under the north cape of Burden Bay, we were surprised to hear human voices on the shore. That they were Esquimaux we knew from the peculiar " Huk ! Huk ! Huk ! " — their hailing cry. Upon approaching the land, a man and a boy were discovered running down the hill toward the beach ; and when we came near they were standing close to the wjiter's edge. Petersen lield a conversation Avith the man, I 3 118 AN AI{(:TT(' 1U)AT .IOUHNEV : I ■W'liilo tlie l)()y rail ofl' over flic rocks ami was sdcui out of si ^1.1, T\\r man was '' Kaliifiinali," tlio Aiif>:<"l«>l"i * of" liis 1ril)(\ and one of oiir Iricnds of last •winter. lie iii- lonned us ti>at lie lived at a. sliort distance u|) the Itay, Avliere lliere was a colony of liis |)eo|)le, to wliicli lie iii- vited us to a(('oni])any liiin ; ])roinisin^- tliat we should liuve some lilul»l)er and meat, and that he woidd pilot us uito the harbour li we would take liun into our " Oonieak." 'I'hc hoy had ^-onc to spread the alarm ; and, while we were parl(>ying with Kalutunah, a, crowd of men, W(nnen, and children, with n "reat number of lioAvling do«.i*s, were s(>eu str(\'uuing toward us alonir the shore, all running at I'lill sjkhmI, flinjiing tluMr arms about, and minulinix tluMr voices toLcelher in unintelliLrible jj^lec- fnlm^ss. 'V\\v clilel' liurden iii'tluMi* exclamations secMued to be " KabuK'iK't ! KabulcMiet ! (^-.ineak! Oomeuk ! " — ■ *' Vriiite men and shijis ! white men and ships !" To avoid the impetuous avalanche, we drew hastily alonp;- side of a. rock, and, takinpj the Angekok on board, pushed oft' and ]iulled toward the s(>ttlement, th(> cowd following- us along tlu' b(>ach. The prospect of getting some blubber justified us in losing a, little tinu\ Our pilot had nev(>r Ixhmi in a. boat beibre ; and he seemed to experi(m(u> all the enjoyment of a, child at the possession of a new toy. " Ti'k-kon;i ! tek- kona ! " — " Look at me! lo(^k at mo !" was his oft-rc- peatcnl salutation to his envious, yet admiring iriends, who were unceasing in their importimities to be treated mm * Tlio Angokok of tlip Es(|uitii:nix corresponds very nearly to the I^Ied;'oine-]^hln of the North American Indians. A MEIIRY LANDING. 119 I ill like manner. Tlic r)()ni('ak and tlie pale, fjiocH wore probably the greatest wonders tliey had ever seen. Tlie l)ay was covered wifh pancake-ic(!*, wliicli greatly retarded our progrciss ; and it was niglitfall wlien W(! readied tin; settleiMent, a mile and a half iij) the bay. Tlie whole colony eagerly assisted us in landing tlie bo;ifs and in carrying up ihe cargo. About twenty of them, as if it were iinv. sj)ort, seized the ])ainter and the gimwalc, and endeavoured to imitate us in every mo- tion; ]»reaking out into lou 1 peals of laughter wlu-nevcT tiny made a mistake. 'Die subject which caus(!d tliem most merriment was the " IIeav(!-ho ! " of the sailors. This tliey attempted to imitate; • and it was very amus- ing to observe their enbrts to cliime in and keep time. They could not approach nearer than " I-e-u ! " They aftei'ward i-e-u-d (iverything, and " I-e-u! i-c-u ! " rang through the settlement the livelong night. We were landed in a little cove. To the right and left, about thirty yards apart, stood two masses of rock twenty feet high, which nicely protected our liarbour. The summits of these little cap(;s were level ; and on the tal)le to tlie right we pitched our camp and stowed our cargo. From the h(!ad of the cove tlic land rose })y a gentle slope;, which, at the distance of a InuKh'ed and thirty yards, terminated fibrujitly against a long line of cliffs, similar in appearance and formation to those of Northumberland Island, already described. Directly in front, on the slope, and at fifty yards from the Ijeach, in * This t(>rTn is applied to young ieo mixed with snow, wliich has boon hrokcui up by the waves, and wlii^'ii, beiig tough, has been rounded into little cakes ])y the water agitated by the wind. I 4 120 AN A'^CTIC BOAT JOURNEY. the midst of rocks and honUh-ir, stcod the Bettlomont - two stone Inits, twenty yards ap^rt I It seemed mor(> ittcd for the dwellinn.-j,ij,e(.(>i'wild animals thm for the liome of },uman beings. Around it was a wilderness of rocks and snow and ice. 12] CHAP. XII. AMONG THE ESQUIMAUX. Our savage friends were kind and generous. They anticij)afed our every wish. One of tli(^ yo'^'J? wonn-n, true to the instincts of her sex, ra: off to \\\v. valley, witli a dozen boys and girls at her heels, and iilU^l our kettles with water. Kaliitunah's koona (wii'e) l)rought us a steak of seal, and a dainty piece of liver. All smiled at the slowly- 1 )urning canvass wick of oiw lamp, and at tlie sj)uttering salt iat ; aLd the chief sent his djiugliter for some dried moss and })lid)ber. We gave them a share of our meal, ofRsred them a taste of cf^fTee, and passed around some pieces of ship-biscuit. The biscuit proved too hard for their teeth, and, imtil they saw us eat, they could not divine its use. They lauglied and nibbled at it alternately, and then stuck it into their l)oots, — their general temporary receptacle for all curiosities. They madii wry faces over the cofFec, and a general laugh arose against the Angekok, w^ho per- sisted in taking a drink of the hot liquid. We had, altogether, an amusing time with them. The evening being warm, we sat upon the rocks for several houi's ; and after supper, our men lighted their pipes. This capped the climax of our strange customs. The Es(pii- maux seemed amazed, and looked first at us, then at IB i 122 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUIINEY. cjich otlicr, tlicn jit us again. They ('"•idciitly tliouglit it a roligifnis ceremony, seeing how solemn wore our fiices. At length I could not abstain from a smile; the signal thus given was lollowed by shouting, clapping of liands, and general confusion among the troop. They ran about, puffing out their checks, and imitating, as nearly as they could, the motions of the; smokers. Kalutunah, who was determined to try everything, begged to be allowed to smoke a i)ipe. One lacing handed to him, he was directed to take a long and deep inhalation ; this accomplished, he desired no more, and his rueful face brought the mirth of the party again upon liim. Having thus established the most kindly relations, we jiresented a needle to each of the women, which greatly delighted them ; and having nothing else to offer us in return, they started off in a body and brought us a few pieces of blubber. This was what we most wanted, and they were asked to barter more of it for a knife. This question must have been misunder- stood ; for, an old Avoman who was called Eglavfit, (meaning intestines,) and who seemed *to be one in authority, told a long story representing how poor they were, how unsuccessful they had been in the himt, how they would soon have no fire and nothing to eat, and how the winter would soon be upon them ; in short, if we could believe her, they were just on the eve of dying. I had heard such stories before, nearer the equator, when substantial favours were likely to be re- quired ; and I began to suspect that we had commenced at the wrong end with our negotiations. Accordingly, I suggested to Petersen the 2:)ropriety of saying that we TRADING FOR RLUURER. 123 cnnio for tlic pni'posc of bcstowinpi; nuinrroiis ])I('ssiiiL'"s upon them; that we abouiulcd in knives, nccdli's, wood, and iron, and tliat wc expected, in return for our boiui- tii'ul gifts, such of their ])altry jj^ods as we niiglit re(iuin' durin<^ our journey aniont^ tlieir people. Petersen acted upon the sutrjrestion, and inter])reted my speech to them in a very solenni manner. Wliether because of the speech, the sudden exiiibition whicli followed of tlie coveted knives, or the disposition to do n pfood thing, I cannot Fiay, but certain it is, that tlie voice of the old woman gav(; place to that of the dai'k-skinned Nalegak (chief), who replied, fpiite laconically, " The white men shall have blubber ! " They were in ilict badly provided. The hiuit had latterly been unproductive, and they haer making two or tlirc turns, I observed at last a bright light streaming down through a liole, into wliich my guide elevated his body ; and then, moving to one side, lie made room lor his guest. I Ibund myself in a den in which I could not stand upright, but which was crowded with human beings of both sexes, and of all ages and siztis. I was received with a hilarious shout which assured me of welcome. Like a flock of shei^p crowding into a pen, tlu>y packed themselves in the corners to make room for me on the only seat which I could discover. I had come to gratify my own curiosity, but theirs was even more rapacious than mine, and must be first satisfied. Everything I had on and about me underwent the closest exjmiina- tion. My long beard greatly excited their interest and admiration. Being themselves without this hirsute appendage, or at most having only a few stiff hairs upon the upper lip and the point of the chin, I could readily appreciate their curiosity. They touched it and stroked it, patting me all the while on the back, and hanging on to my arms, legs, and shoulders. I was a very Peter Parley among a crowd of overgrown children. They were greatly puzzled over my woollen clothing, and could not comprehend of what kind of skins it was made. The nearest that I could approach to a desciM - tion was that it grew on an animal looking like lu \ l:i 1:>6 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. *' Ukaltk " (hare). Tlmt it was ]iot skin I could not make tlieni understand. Hans, being once inipoi-tuned at tlie .ship on tlie s^uiie subject, toll some of them rather pettishly, that it was ' nian skin;" and this I found seemed to be the general impression. ]\Iy pockets did not escape them ; and my pi]x^, \vhich on(3 of the boys drew out, occasioned much anuisement as it ])assed around from hand to hand, and Irom mouth to mouth. Kalutimah drew my knife irom its sheath, pressed it to liis lieart, and then with a roguish leer stuck it in his boot. I shook my head, and, w^tli a laugh, he re- turned it to its place. It was a prize Avhich he gnatly coveted. Hit had not yet heard (jf the Ten Command- ments, and he coidd not resist the desii-e to possess it. He drew it out half a dozen rimes, exclaiming beseecli- ingly, as he hugged it, " Me ? give me ? " There was an air of iiuiocent simplicity ahcmt the I'ellow Avhich pleased me ; and I had nearly paid ibr my admiration witli my knife. Foitunately, liowi^ver, I did not wliolly foi'get that charity begins at home. My pistol they handled with great solemnity ; Avitli the marvellous effect of our firearms tliey hid already been familiarised ; ibr, as we entered the liarbour, Bonsall had, with his gun, dro])ped a burcromaster--EY. above tlic frcczii)g j^oiiit, the young ice which had formed during the night was not broken up ; so that our progress was necessarily slo\v% and our labour severe. It was after sunset when we reaclied Cajie Parry ; and here, again, was the everlasting pack. How far it ex- tended out to sea we could not tell ; hut it came in close to the land, and beii)g in motion, in consequence of a heavy swell from the soutli-wesf, we thought it unsafe to aitemjit to penetrate it in the darkness ; and accordingly we sought a harlwiu' behind a Ioav point <:>f land, and camped. We were not prc^pared for this rel>ufF, and we felt keeidy disap])ointed. Cajjc Parry was the point iit which had centi-ed all oiu; hopes. To reach this cape, had been our constant aim for ten long days. lailing to reach it, we must ful in our enterprise : reaching it, there was, at least, a fair prospect of success. From Northuml)erland Island, as has been previously stated, we could see long leads running down the mainland ; a,nd as we looked out froni that island, none of us enter- tained a doubt of tlie general openness of the sea to the south. The r.jader will, I am siu'c, appreciate our dis- appoint-ment. A good view was obtained, in the morning, li'om a neighbouring elevation. The sea appeared to be e"''ery- where mainly free fr.jm ice, except directly aloi.g the ;ihore, the very place where it had been previously most open The hea/y swell which came in from the south- west, proved conclusively that most of the great pack whicli la} spread out over the North Water when we landed at Northumberland Island, had drifted away. The bi.it which now lay in our path, had clearly been ■ ch had so that severe. y; and r it ex- ianic in equenco )Ught it ss ; and point of we felt x)int at ik cape, Failing ching it, I From 7 stated, linland ; s en':er- a to the our dis- from a i e^'ery- 01. g the sly most .' south- at pack *'hen we away. Hy been THE EVERLASTING rACK. 133 1 brought in by the recent gale. "What should we do? The way was open back to the east side of Northund)er- land. In that direction there was very little ice in sight. We could still retreat, if we should so choose. Our case was apparently not yet lK)peless. It was conjectured, that if we could succeed in ixnctratidg this narrow belt, the sea would be found free beyond ; yet, an attempt to bore the pack at this late period, with the temperature at 22°, and filling, wcmld be an undei-taking fraught with serious danger. There was but one ex])res- sion of sentiment in the party, and that was " try ! '' and try we did, long and laboriously. Time after time were the boats thrust into the leads, — into the Vijry jaws of the grinding ice, and as oi'ten were they forced back. Tired and defeated, our boats badly battered, tiie Ii-on- sides deeply dented along her water-line, the Ifope nearly crushed, and leaking badly, we could only avail ourselves of the change of tide, and work sloAvly down the shore through the lead which it opened. Darkness overtook us near Hoppner Point, about seven miles below Cape Parry. Duiing the day, Ave saw several .small ilocks of eider and kinir-duck.s tlvinj*: southward, but tliey did not come within shot. Petersen, hoAVc^ver, brouglit down a Kittiwake gull, and Godfrey killed a diver. The following morning disclosed to us a broad lead starting from the land, about twelve miles below us, and stretching south-west toward Saunders Island. A\^e gave up the idea of boring the pack, and mside ii)r this water, if we could reach which, we anticipated that tliere would be little difficulty in crossing Wolstenholme K 3 r ! 1.34 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. I', li Sound. Tlio RWt'll k(>i)t tlie bay-ioo broken up, — but opposite Blackwood Point, a low lah^o of rocks checked its force ; and the water inside bcinti: smooth, was covered with a crust too thick to break through, which, at two o'clock, obliged us to haul in to the land and await a change of tide. The tiel]ed to camp at ten o'clock, r. M. During the day two seals were seen ; one of theui, a large uiale, came up near the boat and within close ritle shot. Petersen took a long and true aim at him, but the rille missed fire. One of the men shot a king-duck li-oni a Hock which fhiw ovcrliead; and Peter- sen a ptarmigan on shore. I give the incidents of the next few days in the more ccuicise log-book form. September 22n(L Sky clear. A strong breeze from the southwest j)acks the ice closer, and keeps us prisoners. We avail ourselves of the opportimity to dry our bedding., spi'eading it U2)on the rocks. "We also clear the ice out of the boats. September 2ord. The wind died aAvay during the night, but it liad brought in more Hoes, and the calm liivoured the formation of bay-ice. The tide opened along the shore a narroAv lead, which we entered, and advanced in it about a mile. It was there found closed, and during the remainder of the day we progressed by breaking through the young ice. By this operation, everything in the boats became covered with spray, which was beaten iip by the poles, and which soon formed an icy coating. Our clothing was as stiff as pasteboard. AYe passed the mouth of Booth Sound, and --ii; BESET. 135 — out :lic't'kc(l covered at iwv iwuit il Kit was o'clock, one oi' within uiiii at shot a . I'ctor- \ of the pe from usoiiers. L'ddiiig, ice out ng the cahn opened .'d, and closed, ^ed by ration, spray, i soon tiff as (1, and were finally arrested witliin about two miles of the open water for which we had been Hteering. This water still remained mostly free from eitluT yoimff or old ice. At three o'clock in the aflernoon, it blew heavily from the northward. This looked unpromising ; but, having only two miles more of this hard work, Ave kei)t up our courage. September 2\th. The wind continued through the night to hold from the northward, and it set the ic(? slowly in motion down the coast. It encroached a little on the water below us. In the morning, the wind hauled to the westward, and finally, about noon, settled in the south-southwest, and blew a gale. It sent in a heavy swell, and again we were close prisoners. Sky overcast. The day was spent in wandering along the coast in search of game. Five ptarmigans were shot by Petersen ; some burgomaster-gulls ilew over the camp, and were fired at by Bonsidl, but they were out of reach. A school of walrus were observed blowing in a little pool, near a berg, but they could not be approached. Temperature 20°. September 2bth. It fell calm during the night. The ice tightly hugs the shore, and is grinding tumultuously with the heavy swell, wdiich abates slowly as the day advances. There are no signs of a lead opening off our camp, and many floes have drifted into the open water below us. Our boats could not live among the ice, and we remain ashore. The hunters have been out scouring the plan, but they saw nothing. Sep.ember 2Gth. No change except for the worse. The s^vell has subsided ; the air is calm ; the tempera- K 4 i 1 ..- ii- 136 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. ture Binks rapidly, and it is freezing hard. A great quantity of trasli-ice, broken up into small fragim-nts ])y the late swell, hugs the shore. — Every attempt to bore through it is fruitless, and the new ice will not bear. — We are forced to retire again to our camping- ground of yesterday, as the night comes on, and trust to a shore-breeze, or a change of tide, to loosen the pack. The night is dark. Scptemhcr 21th. "Worse and worse ! The old ice is all cemented together. The open water which lay below oiu" camp yesterday, is clogged with drift, and is covered with a glassy sheet. The temperature is still fallinir. At eii2:ht o'clock, 15°. Calm and clear. We hauled the boats upon the land, and cleared them of ice which had accumulated under the lininir. At least a barrelfull was dug out of the Hope. By this brief record the reader will perceive what were the struggles, hopes, and fears of our little party during this critical period of the expedition. To be thus checked, so near to the spc c where a broad expanse of water had been seen ; and which, when discovered, promised to give us a passage southward, Avas felt to be a hard fortune. A strong wind from the east might open the ice and release us, but otherwise our fate was sealed, — or at least so it seemed. To retreat Avas quite as impo'^iSiiDle as to advance. We could neither travel over the ice nor cut through it. To live long where we were, seemed equally impossible. The shore upon which we were cast was more bleak and barren than anv other that we had seen hi this inhospitable region. The summer was gone, and the winter was pressing close THE CLIMAX. l.'{7 1 upon its heels. The hills were covered Avitli snow ; the vidleys were filled with drill ; the streams wore all dried up ; the sea was shrouded in its gloomy mantle. Ni;jrht — the long Jirctic night — was setting in ; already the sun was beneath the horizon dui'ing the greater ))art of each twenty-tour hours, and in a short tiine he' would sink to rise no more until February. To meet this period of winter dai'kness we were lite- rally without any preparation. Our remaining provi- sions were scarcely suilicient lor two weeks; our fuel was still more scanty ; and this fuel Avas merely of .i nature to cook our food and melt water, but not to give warmth to ourselves. We were not, however, morally unprepared for such a fortune. It was one to which, when leaving li(ms- selaer llarliour, we well knew ourselves to be liable; and for several days we had made up our minds that the cliances were at least ten to one in liivour of such a termination to our undertaking ; yet tlui open water, toward which we had so determinedly bent our course since the 2 1st, oflered so tempting a bait, that we had steadlastly pursued it luUil we lell into this trap. Our great sorrow was, that we had failed in our piu-- pose. Yet, although the object for which we had striven was not attained, Ave knew tluit it Avas not through our fault, but our misfortune ; and, since it had been our duty to persevere as long as there Avas the least possi- bility of succeeding, it AA^as noAv no less our duty than our instinct to endeavour to preserve our lives. Accordingly, as soon as it became CAddent that the sudden closing in of the Avinter had hopelessly beset us, Ave began to look about us, and to devise means for i « ^. '^ ^ «o. v>^^SJ> ^ \r 1^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Li MM 12.5 ■ 50 ■^~ ■■■ ■u 1^ |2.2 L£ 12.0 IK i 1.8 1.25 ||U 1 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^., \ <^ \\ rv o^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. USBO (716) 872-4503 138 AX ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. meeting future emergencies. We must first preserve what was left of our stores ; secondly, construct a place to shelter us ; and, thirdly, add to our means of sub- Bistence. We could draw no inspiration from the desolation aroimd ua. Our trust was in God and our own efforts. 139 CHAP. XIV. BLIILDING A HUT. I AVAIL myself of the opportunity offered hy the be- ginning of a new cliapter, to describe our locality. We were about sixteen miles below Cap(i Parry, nearly mid- way between this cape and Saunders Island, — or, more accurately, midway between Whale and Wolstenholme Sounds. The coast trends southeast by south. It is low, and of course rocky ; the rocks are primitive. The shore is marked by numerous small indentations, and several low points nm out into the sea. The largest of these indentations is Boorh Sound. This sound, or rather the bay inside of it, is about 'foiu* miles in dia- meter ; and appearing at a little distance to be surrounded by land, looks much like a lake. The entrance to it is very narrow ; its low capes overlap each other, and as you look in from seaward, they appear to be connected. In the centre of this l)ay stands a very remarkable island called Fitzclarence Rock, which is alx)Ut two hundred and fifty feet high ; a truncated cone sur- mounted by a square-faced cap. At the head of the bay rises a vertical cliff from four to five hundred feet in height, which stretches northward, and is continuous with the abrupt wall of Cape Parry. At a little dis- 140 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. tancc from tlie sliore, tlio low land in front, Avliicli is a belt varyintr from ono to four miles in width, would be overlooked ; and the long range of eliffs would seem to be the coast line. The cape whieli bounds Bootli Sound on the south, is thirteen miles below^ Cape Parry ; and beyond it to the south are two other caj)es, at the distances re- spectively of five miles and six miles, lietween the last two opens another bay or inlet, ruiming, like Booth Bay, back to the base M' the elil!s, — or rather, to the foot of their sk)ping di'hris. Into this bay descends a small glacier ; another glacier rests in a valley opening into Booth Bay. These are about lour miles aj)art, and they seem to join, or rather to originate, in the siime vier de fflace above. It will thus be seen that between the ocean on the one side, and the cl ill's on the other ; and betw^een Booth Bay on the north, and the other bay on the south, we have a low rocky plain, four miles in diameter, rudely estimated. Its surface is luidulating, its liighest point being about thirty feet above tide ; and it is covered with boidders of laru-e and small sizes. We occupied this plain ; and our tent Avas pitched on the flat surface of a rock about thirty yards from the sea, aiul midwa}'^ between the bays which bound the plain on the north .'uid south. A more bleak and l)arren spot I thought could not be found in the whole world. Here we were to strucrjxle for existence. It was not until the morning of the 28th of September, that we fully made up our minds that escape was hope- less. Without -v.vasting time in useless lamentation, we at once proceeded to secure our equipment ; which we SEARCIIIXG FOR A SITE. 141 o it is We n the sea, [un on spot I Here (lid by carry inp: it, ])i('ce by piece, to a ledf.'-e on a rock near at liand, caicl'ully kei'])iiipf t;illy to see that no small articles were niissinnf. KverythiiiL!: hrinijr thus made siifc, Ave spread over the Avlioh' our siiils, and liistcned them down willi lieavy stones, that the wind ndulit not carry them away. The boats were then capsiscd to prevent their ])ein^ filled with snow ; and the oars were stowed under them. Tliis beiniz; done, we began to look about us for a phice to builil a hut ; as we could not live in our tent. It was first suggested that we .shoidd construct a house after the manner of tlie Es(piimaux ; l)ut it was soon conckided that we could not in a fortnight collect to- gether a sufficient quantity of stones for such j)urpose, if indeed we could do it at all. Accordingly this ])Ian was abandoned as, inider the circumstances, (juite imprac- ticable. While we were anxiously considering Avhat W(! shoidd do, wandering al)out without discovering any feasible mode of overcoming our difficulty, one of the party accidentally found a crevice in the rock, not far from the camp, — indeed directly oi)posite to the land- ing, and al)OUt forty yards from the shore. This crevice, which ran parallel with the coast, was about eight feet in width and quite level at the bottom. On the east side the rook was six feet high, smooth, and vertical, except that it was broken in two places, forming at each a .shelf. The other side was lower, being not more than from three to four feet high, and was round and sloping. As if to make up for this defect it was, however, cut by a lateral cleft. We at once determined upon this place for the hut. The rocks would save us the labour of much carrying of 142 AN ARCTIC LOAT JOUHNEY. Rtonoft and buildinpr, and tlic little break on the western side woidd answer for a doorw.ay. Having now fixed upon a site, the next thing was to obtain materials for building. Thus far we liad seen none whatever, everything being covered with snow. We now fonnd, however, that there were some stones scattered about ; but unfortunately they were all frozen tight, so that wc could not lift them ; and here the ice- chisel, which we had brought from the Life-boat depot, and for which we had not hitherto found use, was of great sei'vice. Indeed, without it we should not have been al)le to effect anything. An ice-chisel is a bar of iron an inch in diameter and four feet long, which is bent at one end in the form of a ring to be grasped by the hand ; and is sharpened and tempered at the other end like a stone-qua rrier's drill. AVith this instnmient Mr. Bonsall loosened the stones, while the rest of us brought them together. Some were carried two hundred yards, and all of them of course upon oiu' shoulders. Having accumulated a considerable pile, the masons benan to construct walls ; Init here another difficulty arose. We had nothing with which to fill up the cracks. This set us again to searching, and at length a bed of s;md was discovered near the beach. The ice- chisel was now called in requisition as a pick ; and load afler load of the sand was shovelled with one of our tin dinner-plates into a discarded bread-bag, and thus car- ried up to the buildei's. Diirino: two davs we thus worked, and liad then the satisfaction of seeing the area of the hut enclosed. The walls were fourteen feet apart, four feet high, and three I [im GATHEKING STONES. 143 m the The three feet thick. "We liad hiboured hard and almost contiiui- Dusly during our working-hours, reserving only a short time for our scanty meals. On the following day we built upon the roc^c, on the west side, a gable, of which the apex was six I'eet from the ground, and wliicli sloped down on each side to the walls. Through this western side oj)ened the lateral clell, which was spanned hy the gable, whicli rested at this place on the rudder of the Hope ; leaving jin orifice three feet high [md two feet wide. Next day Petersen made for this opening a door, which was hung at an angle, so as to close by its own weight, when it had been pushed open i'rom tlje outside. Not liaving a piece of board wide enough for the piu'pose, he con- structed a frame-work of narrow strips, and covered it with canvas. The cracks around the doorposts were filled with moss. Above the doorway was letl another opening for a window. Across this was stretched a strip of an old muslin shirt, greased with blubljer ibr the better trrnsmission of light. Now came the more difficult operation of roofing. One of tlie boat's masts served for a ridge-pole ; and on this and the walls were hiid the oars, ibr raflers. Over these were spread the boats' sails, which were stretched taut, and secured by heavy stones. Then we collected moss to thatch the canvass. This was even a more laborious task than carrying the stones ; for we were compelled to scoui* the country in all directions, and as the snow w^as almost everywhere a foot deep, to dig for each piece of moss that we obtained. Indeed, four times out of five, we were unsuccessful in finding a single lump, after clearing away cart-loads of snow. 144 AN AKCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. ' Tliis laltonr -would not have lu'cn so severe, but that we had no sliovel, and were ohli^cd to use our tin dinncr- ])Iat('s. Our carpenter encU-avoured to su])])ly tliis delect hy making a sliovel out of* the staves of our now useless molasses kejr, tacking them together, and iiis- tening to tliem a tent-pole lor a handle ; but as this contrivance soon came to pieces, it failed to answer our purpose. The moss was frozen hard, and was found rarely in larger (piantities than a patch two or three feet in diameter, but more frecpiently in lumps the size of one's hand. It was dug up with the ice-chisel, and carried on our backs in our clothes-bags, the contents of which we had previously emptied into the tent. We made excellent progress with our work ; and on the fifth day, although feeling uncertain as to what fortune r .aited us, yet we had at least the comfortable reilection that, on the next day, we should have a liousc to shelter us, and should thus be protected against some of the terrors of our position. On that day, liowever, just before nightfall, when we were distant three miles from the camp, the clouds, which had been gathering since morning, suddenly began to discharge their frozen vapour, and the whole heavens soon l)ecame thick with falling snow. Everything that was not very near to us, was hidden from our view ; and, fearful that we should lose our way, we crowded into our bags what moss we had dug, and trudged back toward the tent. Our outward footmarks were almost obliterated, even before we set out to return ; and, misled by a casual ti*ack, we held too far to the north, and came upon the STORM-STAYED. 145 Boa almost two mil«'s al)ovo the cnnip. By tliis time a li'i'lit soutlicrly wind "was blowing:, ami, bciu^jr com- pt'lU'il to face it, we readied tlu> tent mueh eliilled and exhausted. We held on to our moss l»airs, however ; and, after spreadin■< of its at- tacliinent. For tliis plant, ])oor thou;jrh it was, we were com- pelled to dig. The rocks in every case were to b<» cleared from snow, and ofVen our pains went unre- warded. The first time this food was tried it seemed to answer well ; it at least filled the stomacli, and thus kept off the horrid sensation of hunger until we got to sleep ; but it was found to produce afterward a painful diarrhica. Beside this impleasant effect, fragments of gravel, which were mixed Avith the moss, tried our teeth. We ])icked the plants from the rock with our knives, or a piece of hoop-iron ; and we could not avoid breaking off some particles of the stone. I nnist not neglect to mention a most important dis covery made about this time. I allude to a little fresh- water (melted snow) lake, which was found by one of the party in a liollow, three quarters of a mile east from the camp. This lake was about fifty by thirty yards in dijimeter, and about five feet deep in the centre. AVhen it was first discovered, the ice upon it was only a foot and a half thick. By breaking through this crust with the ice-chisel, we obhuned an excellent supply of pure water. This enabled us greatly to economise our fuel. Neither should I neglect to mention a circumstance which, perhaps, will not strike the reader as of great importance, but which occasioned us for several days not a little suffering, since it deprived us of almost our L 2 mi 148 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. only comfort. Tliis was tlio fjiihirc! of the stock of roasted cofTec which wo had l)rouglit with us fi-oin tljo ship. Tlioro still rcnuiinod to us a good supply of the beiTies, but we had no means of roasting them. We were, therefore, compelled to use tea; and having ot this only a small quantity, we were reduced to a meagre allowance at each meal. The luxury of hot, strong coffee, to a cold, hungiy, tired, and dispirited man, will, I am sure, he appreciated. Tea was less gratefid to us. I do not know how we could have dispensed with a hot drink in the morning and evening, when everything else was so chill and cheerless. 14'J CHAP. XV. HUT BUILDING CONTINUED. Tiiesdat/, Octoler ?>rd. Tlio storm wliicli fict in last cvL'iiing coiitiimcd tlirough tlio night and during tliu next day ; the Hnow full tliick and iiist; the Avind l)lew fearfully, and the air was filled with drill. We could scarcely stir out of the tent or do anything else except cook the necessiuy food. This service was performed by Godfrey and myself, it being our tiu-n to-day at the galley. We crawled out in the morning at eight o'clock, amid cri^s of " Shut the door ! Shut the door ! " from our half- slumbering comrades, as the snow came whirl- ing in Tipon their faces ; and after digging the cooking apparatus out of a deeji snow-bank, Avhich was piled up alongside of and against the tent, we faced the storm, and carried the different articles over to the hut, with the view of there obtaining shelter. The hut was found to be almost covered ; on the south side the drift was level with the comb of the roof. All access to the doorway was obstructed, and we could gain entrance only by tearing up the canvass on th*' north-west corner. Through the orifice thus made, the blubber-keg, lamp, and kettle were lowered. L 3 A wr^" ' ! i 150 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. To our sorrow the liut was half filled with snow, feathery streams of which came pouring in tlirough the cracks around the roof. These fine particles filled the air, and made everything so damp that it was with much difliculty that the fire was kindled. Leaving Godfrey engaged in this delicate operation, I took the kettle, de- termined to get if possible some water from the lake. The fuel, which must otherwise be used for melting snow, might thus be saved for roasting coffee, the want of which was greatly felt by all of us. Clambering up through the hole in the roof, I turned to the right around the base of a pile of rocks, and then beat up diagonally against the gale. The drift was almost blinding, and my face grew so cold that I was frequently forced to turn my back to the wind to recover breath and warmth. It was with great difficulty that I picked a passage among the boulders and drifts ; but, growing warmer as the exercise heated my blood, I at length came directly upon the lake. This was an un- expected piece of good fortune ; for, as I had guessed my way, I could not have even hoped to come exactly to the right spot. I aces of ice which lay scattered around the well, had formed a centre for the accumulation of a large di'ift ; and I was therefore compelled to dig another hole. Selecting a spot which the wind had swept clear, I set diligently to work at cutting the crystal sheet with the dull chisel. This, luckily, had been placed upright by the last visitor, or I should probably not have found it. The ice was perfectly transparentj and I could see every stone and pebble on the bottom, shining very brightly. GETTING WATER. 151 want and seeming to nestle there in warmth and quirt, — strikingly in contrast with the confusion and cold which reigned above. The operation of cutting this hole was a most tedious one, and it must have occupied me at least three quarters of an hour; but at length the iron bar plunged through, and upon withdrawing it a crystal fountain gurgled out into the frost. My kettle was soon filled, and I set out to return. My tracks were covered over, and again I was obliged to steer by the wind. I was getting on very well, having now the storm partially on my liack ; but my good fortune forsook me Avhen I had reached about half- v>'ay. In the act of climbing over a rock, in order to shorten the distance, I missed my footing, and fell upc»a my lace. The kettle slipped from my gi'asp, and, spilling its precious contents, went flying across the plain. With a philosophical resignation which I had the modesty afterwards to think quite commendable in the circumstances, I followed the retreating pot, and, overtaking it at length where it had brought up against an elevation, I returned to the lake and re-filled. This time I was more careful, and I reached the camp with- out further accident, except tlnxi I came upon the sea some distance above ihe hut ; thus considerably in- creasing the length of my walk, and that, too, in the very teeth of the storm. I had been absent two hours. Godfrej;' had lighted the lamp ; and, after roasting in the saucepan a suflficient (quantity of coftee to last two days, had then extinguished the flame. I found him seated on the keg shivering with cold, and uneasy about me. He was black all L 4 rT 152 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. over with soot, and had been nearly stifled with smoke. The lamp being relighted, the coffee was cooked in a little less than an hour ; and having warmed up a few pieces of pork, mixed with almost the last remnant of our water-soaked bread, we left the suffocating atmo- sphere of our den, and carried the breakfast up to our himgry and impat' -nt comrades. After shaking from our clothes the snow which had not been thoroughly ground into the fibres of the cloth, we assisted in des- patching the meagre meal ; and were then glad to wrap oiirselves in our blankets and buffalo-robes, to sleep and shiver through the remainder of the day and night. It was voted that we should do without supper. Those who were least unfavourably affected by the stone-moss, satisfied with some uncooked fragments of it the most pressing gnawings of hunger. IVIeanwhile the wind hauled to the south-west, and continued to blow, and the snow to fall, with even greater vehemence. The cooks, Mr. Sonntag and John, turned out at daybreak ; and they had even a more difficult task than had Godfrey and myself the day before. The temperature was several degrees lower, and the hut more encumbered with drift. The lamp and other fixtures were completely covered. Persevering, how- ever, through every obstacle, our cooks, in about three hours, gave us a refreshing breakfast. I do not wish to make any parade of our privations ; but I should fail to convey any true idea of the day did I not say that it was passed in unmitigated misery. Our tent was made of thin hemp canvass : it was ten feet in THE CANVASS TENT. 153 with length by eight in breadth ; and into this were crowded eight persons. It was pitched upon a rock, and it laced the storm. We could not shift it without the certainty of having it more filled with snow than by leaving it standing, as it was, with the door (which could not be closed tightly) exposed to the full force of the driving wind and the pelting drift. Upon the bottom of the tent was spread one of oui* buffalo robes, and over this the other ; we lay between them, each person having one foot and three inches of space. In ordej* to economise room, (and without this economy we could not have all crowded together,) we lay, as the sailors tenned it, " heads and points." Each man was wrapped up in his o^vn private blankets, and under his head were placed his boots, coat, and any other little articles which he could collect together for a pillow. In some cases a stone was added to assist the elevation. The station of the cooks was next the door. The moisture of our breath was condensed upon the cold canvass, and hung above us in a layer an inch thick of delicate fi'ost crystals, which the least touch pre- cipitated down our necks and among the bedding. By this means everything had become damp. The air in the crowded state of the tent was most unpleasant ; in fact we had a cold steam bath. All sorts of expedients were tried for killing time. First, after breakfast, we opened the bedding to give it an airing, and turned out to stretch our limbs ; but we could not long endure the cold piercing wind, and one by one the party retreated to our shelter. The most I ! 154 AN ARCTIC EOAT JOURNEY. hardy were not out more than two hours ; and these, fearful of losing their way, did not go far from the camp. Later in the day we .spread out our driest blankets ; and, seated upon them, we tried to beguile ourselves with some rubbers of whist, interspersed with other games. Every one, except Mr. Sonntag, smoked his pipe ; and those who kept journals emljraced the opportunity to make spasmodic entries ; — for the fingers and the pencil could not long keep company. Petersen had a sly joke for us now and then; and Bonsall entertained us from time to time with some original drollery. Thursday^ October 6th. Our condition is fast ap- proaching the horrible. The storm has continued, without abating for a single moment, since Monday evening, and it still holds on with a steadiness that is most disheartening. Three days gone ; three days away from the hut and from our preparation for the winter ; and, worse than all, the food of three days consumed; — and nothing done ! Our bedding, bad yesterday, is infinitely worse to-day ; and, inactive as we are, we have a hard task to keep cheerful, with starvation staring us in the face. "Were we doing something, this tormenting ghost could be frightened off. Bon- sall has a copy of Ivanhoe, with which I spend the morning. In the afternoon there is a lull in the storm. I have been out Avith Petersen to hunt ; but it blew again harder than ever, and we were driven back. We came upon a hare, but before my companion could elevate his KtifFened arms the animal was out of sight, hidden by GATHERING MOSS. 155 the sheet of blinding drift which whirled over the plain. Friday, October Oth. The gale broke about mid- night, and the morning dawned upon us bright as a winter's day could be. Nature looked as unconcerned as if her face had never been ruffled. The sun came dragging himself slowly up from behind the silver- peaked mountains, and the temperature rose to 20°. How much are our emotions imder the influence of our bodily comforts ! Last evening our faces were gloomy, and our jests were tinctured with recklessness. This morning all is gaiety and cheerfulness. We are stirring with the earliest daylight. The contents of the tent are spread down by the beach, upon some large rocks from which the snow has all been blown ; and the frost and ice are scraped fi'om the canvass. Meantime others of the party tear off a portion of the north side of the roof of the hut, and then clear out the snow. This is a tedious and painful operation ; for the shovelling, as before, must all be done with tin plates. At length the space is clear ; the canvass is replaced and tightly bound down, and we collect moss to finish the thatching. More tedious still is this work than, the snow shovelling ; for the snow is much deeper than it was when we were driven home three days ago. The drifts are deep, and the w^alking laborious. We cross over the south bay, and find on the opposite shore, four miles distant from the hut, a good bed of turf The bags are nlled, and the men go and come, one by one, across the ice. While we were busy digging moss, a northerly wind r^^ !i 156 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. sprang up very suddenly, and Ix'fore any of us could reach the camp, the bedding wns covered "with fine particles of drii'ted snow. The different articles were hastily crowded mto the tent in a worse condition than ever. — " Pi-aise the fineness of the day when it is ended, and a woman when you have known her," says the Bible of the Vikings. Ivotwithstanding the wind, we continued at our work, and brought in a considerable quantity of moss ; and, although less than half the quantity that we want, we determined, in view of the coming storm, to make it suffice ; and with the close of the day we finished our work. Petersen, as usual, has been out hunting, and brought home four ptarmigans. Saturda?/, October 1th. Still lilowing heavily from the north. We cannot expose ourselves long at a time ; and after taking tui-ns in clearing out the doorway of the hut, we carry stones to complete the internal ar- rangements. Petersen is occupied during the day in making a sort of open stove, or fireplace, of the tin sheathing which we have torn from the Hope. A pipe of the same material leads up through the roof This ingeniously-contrived fireplace is large enough to hold two lamps, our saucepan, and kettle. Sunday^ October Sth. A gloomy Sabbath day in a gloomy place. We are kept within the tent by the bad weather. The wdnd is blowing more fiercely than ever from the north-east, and the minimum temperatui-e during die day has been six degrees below zero. If Wednesday approached the horrible, the climax is reached to-dav. HOUSED. 157 Steplionson, who liad boon complaininpr alittlo during sovoral days, ^vas takon sick in the morning. His old heart troubles, which were brought on by scurvy, and which endangered his life on many occasions on ship- board, have returned, and he has had, during the day, several i'eari'ul fits of dyspnoea. Poor fellow ! I can do very little either to relieve or conilbrt him ! Damp clothing and an atmosphere at zero are ■vvi'etched cheer for a sick, — very sick man ; and there are none but hard hands to soothe him. The cook makes for him a pot of tea, and I give him a few drops of tincture of colchicum. Mondaii^ October 9tJi. Clear and calm. "We have a fine day for work; and although the temi)erature r.anges fi'om four to ten degrees below zero, yet we get our bedding a little dried. Even at the lowest temperatures, a slow evaporation takes place, if the air is not already fully charged with moisture. We have laboured dili- gently, and have completed the hut before night. The internal arrangements are quite simple ; but their con- struction required much labour. On the south side, a space six feet wide has been elevated about eight inches. This is done with stones and sand, collected in the manner described in the last chapter. The elevation, which, after the Esquimaux, we call a " brock," is made as smooth as possible ; and over it are spread our skins and blankets. Here five of the party are to sleep. The north-west corner of the hut is similarly elevated ; and this space, five feet by six, is to hold the remaining three. We move in late in the evening, and prepare to spend 158 AN A.RCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. the first night in our new ahode. Petersen, Sonntag, Bonaall, Stephenson, and myself occupy the south ; and Godfrey, Whipple, and John the north side. Petersen comes in at sundown with eight ptarmigans; and we celebrate our entry into our new quarters with a good stew of choice game and an jibundant pot of coffee, cooked in our rickety fireplace with tlie staves of our blubber-keg, which was yesterday emptied of its contents. We have saved a small quantity of oil, and Godfrey rigs up an extempore Esquimaux lamp. The hut is cold, but so much more comfortable than our tent, that we have good reason to rejoice over the change. The light of the lamp dimly reveals those representatives of civilised comfort — beds, stove, walls, and rafters. Long after the embers on the hearth had blackened, we smoked and talked and speculated by the dull light of the moss taper. Another gale was howling across the plain, but we bade it defiance. We were absolutely buried in a great snow-bank. The drift swept wildly above our heads, ra.ttling over the moss roof, and ringing against our frail chimney. Although accustomed to hardship, yet we could not feel cheerful, nor whoUy forget that this cold, fireless, damp, vault-like den, promised to be for a little, very little while, our dwelling-place, and then our grave. John summed up our stores. " There's three quarters of a small barrel of bread, a capftil of meat-biscuit, half as much rice and flour, a double handful of lard, — and that's all." We had less than a pint of oil, and not a stick of wood except the staves of the bread-barrel INVENTORY. 15P and blubber-kcg. A poor outfit for a winter wliicli heralded its coming with such days as we liad lately passed through. Yet courage did not forsake us, nor was there one word of lamentation. Placing trusi where the heart bade us, we did not lose hope ; and I feel sure that all of us retired to rest thinking of the future, — its duties and its trials, — prayerfidly. % 160 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. CHAP. XVI. THE IIL'T DISCOVKI:i:D DV ESQUIMAUX. Thus, after twelve days of waiting and working, we were at length housed ; but what should we do next ? Hitherto all our efforts in hunting had resulted in failure. Only seventeen little hirds rewarded our con- stant vigilance. Two or three foxes, and one hare, liad been seen, but not a single bear : our traps had not been entered. Forty miles up the coast was the Es- quimaux Colony of Netlik. }\y going thither we might possilily get su})])lies, and by presents induce the people to bring something to us; but to imdertake, in this stormy weather, to walk that distance, without pro- tection or shelter of any kind, without the certainty even of finding the sea closed, and withal, in oiu* re- duced condition, would be a desperate adventure. In- deed, it could not be done. There did not seem to be any hope for U3 but in the stone moss ; and this, poor though it was, some of us had not been able to eat. These matters formed the subject of oiu' conversation during the first day of our stay in the hut. The storm having continued unabated, we could not stir out of doors. The snow was banked up against the window, and there came in through the muslin pane only the faintest glimmer of light, which barely enabled us to STRANGE NOISE. 161 this pro- ainty lir re- in- to be poor Hou each other's laces. We coiiUl not aflnrd the oil necessiry to keep the him]) hurning. Late ill th«' jit'tenidon, ;is Jolin was hreakini; up llie staves of cur l)hibl)er-kejr, prejiaratory to starling the Hre to codk us some eofl'ce and a cake of nieat-l)iscuit, an unusual noise was heard, coming from the direction of the beach. The doorway was tilled with sntiw, and without nnich diflicnlly \\v could not get out ; so we listened at tlie window for some miiuites, expecting its rejK'tition ; but notliing further beini; heard, we con- cluded that it must have been the wind; and John weut on with his work, lie soon liad a cheertul-looking tire crackling on the liearth, which threw out a little warmth into the damp apartment, and lighted it n\) with a strange unearthly glare. Wreaths of smoke, however, poured out through tlu; cracks in the rickety stove, destroying Avliatever of comlbrt we miglit else have extracted from it. To escajie this smoke we wi're compelled to draw oiu* lieads l)eneath oiu' Ijlankets. Our chinmey needed some tinkering to make it draw. To turn out in the storm and brinii; water from the lake, could not be attemj)ted without too great dangi'r ; and we were therefore obliged to midt snow, of which tliere was abun(hmce to be had by merely opening the door. The cook, intent upon preparing the supper, and we, in avoiding the smoke, soon forgot tlie sound which had startled us. Almost half an hour liad elapsed, and probably the subject had passed from the mind of every one, when the sound was again heard, and this time in a manner which left no doubt that it proceeded from something living. One of us thought that it was the M IG-2 AN ARCTIC LOAT JOURNEY. growlinij; (»f a bt'iir, and anotlier tliat it was tlie l)arking ol'afox; but after a few ininiites had pasncd, witliout its being repeated, Wliii)[)le, who was half asleep in the eoriier, protested that it was "just notliing at all." Nothing was heard lor full five minutes more but the moaning of the wind and the rattling of tlie drifting snow ; but our ciu'iosity having been aroused, the door was opened, and the snow cleared away by dragging it down into the hut, until at length a small opening was made, through which we could see daylight. With the dayliglit came in a cold unwelcome ])last and a sheet of ieathery snow ; and directly, too, an immistakable human cry. There were evidently two men calling to each other, and conversing loudly. The wind, however, made so much noise that we coidd not distinguish what they said. Conjecturing that they were Es(|uimaux, Peter- sen called loudly to them " lluk ! huk ! huk ! " After several repetitionr-, the hailing was heard and answered, and we soon distinguished footsteps approaching; but it was clear that the strangers were bewildered. This we could not at the time understand ; but the cause was subse(|uently explained. The drill had left nothing to mark the position of our hut, except a slight depres- sion in front, in the cleft by which we approached the door, over which the gable was so wreathed in snow as to appear like a bank of drift. " Ma-nc ! ma-ne ! " (" here! here ! ") shouted Peter- sen at the top of his voice. The strangers were still puzzled ; but soon their ears caught the direction of the sound as it was repeated, and with many expressions of surprise and gratification they hastily approached. Upon ARRIVAL OF STRANGERS. 163 ! barking , witliout v\) ill the ill." a but the I! driltiiig , the door draf human allowable for food >p and be :r part to ;. Peter- ved him- grcat man is always a lazy man. lie at least is the g.eat man among them, who by skill and success in hunting, earns a right to the ofium cum digintate. In- dolence then becomes respectable, as it does under hke conditions everywhere. i t having od of the no other le stone- ition that is people •uld) our test and 3rally in- and we eir heads 1 not get receive a to death, ere lazy, ^e we did take our supply us drone is of, yet a ! f 172 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUKNEV. CHAP. XVIT. A TWO WEEKS FAMINE. The result of the negotiations recorded in the preced- ing cha])ter was to sitisiy tlie Angekok tliat tlie Kablunet were not as poor ns he had imagined ; and that it was the policy of the tribe to cultivate friendly relations with them. Accordingly, we made with him a sort of treaty or compact, by which his people were to furnish us with as much food as we might w^ant ; and we, in return, were to supply them with wood, iron, knives, and needles, at rates subsequently to be fixed upon. With these terms both the contracting parties appeared to be well pleased; and the Angekok and his companion, after passing another night with us and receiving some valuable pre- sents, took their departure for Saunders Island, where there was a settlement called Akbat (the Lummc Hill). They left with us enough meat (all they hiid) for one meal, and a piece of blul)ber, from which we tried out three pints of oil. Petersen manufactured, of a sheet of tin, a little flat lamp to burn with a cotton wick ; and rigged it to the upright post which stood in the centre of the room as a support to the roof, now heavy with more than two feet of snow. This lamp gave us light enough to read by, and made the apartment look more cheerful. POO U WAY MADE. 173 procod- Liiblunct it it was ons Avitli )f treaty us with irn, were edles, at se terms pleased; passing iblc pre- 1, where ne Hill), for one •ied out sheet of ck; and centre of ith more t enough cheerful. Tt was almost two weeks before we siw the Kscjuimaux again. In tlie meantini(! our worst suspicions wen- aroused respecting thcrir intentions towards us, and we began to entertain serious douhts of our own sv two feet and a lialf. Over tliis iiK-iosure were laid other (!at stones; and between tlie fvo \vlii
  • SOUTHWARD, October 2C)fh. — The Esquimaux h.ivo come and gone again ; and we, having gone tlu'ougli the natural ravenous assaults of starving men upon their supplies, are now fattening on tlie juicy bear's meat tliey left us. They had gone down to Cape York on a visit to their brethren there, stopping on the way at Akbat, and hunting in the interval. Cape York is the most southern settlement of this people. The pla*. e is called by them Imnanak (the cliffs). They had upon their sledges the skins of three bears, and the greater part of the meat of the animals ; but they were very chary of it, and we obtained only enough to suffice us for a few days. We ate of our newly acquired food no more than was necessary to restore our strength. The deficiency of bulk we supplied, as before, with stone-moss. This moss, however, during forty-eight hours after the arrival of the sledges, was voted a nuisance ; and we devoured the rich and wholesome food as only famished men could. These two days wrought a wonderful change in us. Our cheeks filled out ; the dizziness with Avhich we had all A CHEERFUL EVENING. 183 hoon affected vanislied ; and our noiniial str('np;th was in a. measure rof^aiiicd. The f>;liastly, haggard expression whicli our faces wore gave place to one of cheerfuhiess. The evening after our siivage benefactors left us figure; in my memory as one of the pleasantest of my life ; plea«mt because it was clieerful, because all care was f()rgotten, and the :iioment was enjoyed for its own sake, without thought for the morrow, or fear of what was to come in the more distant future. We felt hope- ful, strong, and self-reliant ; and, more than all, we felt thankful in our very heart of hearts for the Providential gifts so timely sent us, teaching us our dependen(!e upon the Great Universal Father, wlio, as He " suffers not a sparrow to fall to the ground without His notice," for- siikes not even the weakest of His children in the solitude of the desert It was indeed a gladsome time. How curiously de- pendent is our spiritual ujion our physical nature ! Now that we had enough to eat, past and future perils and sufferings were alike forgotten, and we signalised our repast by doubling our ration of coffee. Petersen, ever careful, thoughtfid, and generous, brought out from the middle of his bag a small package of cigars, — a present from Dr. Kane ; and our senses inhaled new life with the rich flavour of a geimine " Havannah." The men smoothed the bedclothes on the north side of the hut ; and Sonntag, Bonsall, and myself took turns with them in a game of whist, and in reading some chapters from " The Fair Maid of Perth." The genial warmth of Scott was felt in that snow-imbedded hut, and our faces expressed the interest excited by his tale. The tem- perature was unusually warm, having risen to 41:° ; and N 4 (h ■f ! 1S4 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. h it was far into the " wee sma' hc^n-s ayant the twa','' when we retired to rest. The following days dragged their slow length along, and the same routine of duties and employments marked their progress. The Es(piimaux came again, and brought to us a few small pieces of meat and blubber; and they Avent away promising to return with more. Other in- cidents occurred to occupy our attention. We caught two foxes ; and as we owed one of them to one of the traps, we considered ourselves well paid for all (mr trouble in constructing, visiting, and reconstructing these. The prisoner so taken was small, and of u blue, or rather l)lueish-grey colour ; and his flesh made for us two scanty meals. Except in colour, lie appeared to resemble closely the white specimen already described. The other of the two just mentioned was shot by me in the night. I heard him running over the roof as I lay revolving schemes for the future ; and, without stoj^ping to dress, I hurried out of the hut with a gun. The night was so dark that the sight was not discernible, and I therefore fired almost at random. The first barrel missed its mark, but the second was more successful ; and I could see the fox, badly wounded, hobbling down the hill over the snow. Fearful that the prize would escape, I gave chase, and overtook him after running about fifty yards ; but the experiment had come near to costing me dearly. Having no boots, and only a pair of light stockings on my feet, ther e were found, upon my return to the hut, to be frozen, — their colour resembling that of a tallow candle. The frost, however, had not penetrated very deeply ; and, by the timely api^lication of ice-cold water, of Avhich there was fortunately a supply THOUGHTS OF HOME. 185 ill tlu' kettle, and light friction aftenvards with tlie leathery side of a bird-skin, 1 escaped with a few blisters. This plan of treatment I learned from the Esipiiniaux ; and on this, as well as many siil)se(|uent occasions, I had oj)portimity to test its elticiency. Siinddi/, October 2^th. — I spent this day with Bonsall in wandering over the plain, searching for stone-moss ; dedicating our thoughts to the absent. We knew how onr friends at home w^ere keeping the day, and we wondered whether or not they were remembering us in their devotions. We knew, toe, that they must have been anxiously looking for us ; and that, in a few days, they woidd begin to fear for our safety. The temperature when we went out in the morning was thirty-two degrees below zero, and scraping otF the snow was so cold a work tliat we obtained little moss. At noon we halted nearly at the head of the south bay, where tliere is a pile of rocks above a low preci- pice, fi'om which we commanded a good view. Plere we found Petersen, who had torn down a trap to clear it of snow ; and who was just commencing to recon- wtruct it. He had visited all his traps, and rebuilt and rebaited them. Petersen, too, had his thoughts in the south. His wife, his daughter, and his boy were engrossing his soul, while his body grew chilly at his unwelcome work. His face was sad and thoughtfid ; and as I came up be - side him and lifted a stone for him, he said, sorrowfully, " I was thinking of Paul." Ah ! pretty, gallant little Paul ! it was well that you did not know that on your father's furrowed cheek lay a frozen tear. m- f'f 1 ,1 1 ;| 1 ^! 1 186 AN ARCTIC I50AT JOURXEY. We fiiiislied the trap, and involuntarily turned our eyes in the direction in wliich our tliouglits had been flying. The sun, low upon the horizon, .shone through a grey mist, with no more appearance of warmth than the rocks and ice and snow about us. Far behind that dreary mist lay our home-world, gladdened by a genial sun — glowing in the gold and crimson of its autumn. The pictures which our fancy drew made such contrast witli the realities of our situa- tion, that we fell to scheming again for our deliverance. I had a project which possessed at least the merit of tending in the direction of our duty : it was to hire the Esquimaux to carry us on their sledges to Upernavik. We would wait through November and set out by the moonlight of December, when, in all probability, the sea would be closed. Petersen declared this to be im- practicable ; but we agreed to renew its discussion in the hut, in our way toward which other plans were pro- posed ; but none of them brought us to any conclusion, other than that it was necessfuy to do something soon. We reached the hut, to find there an Esquimaux just arrived from Akbat. It is two o'clock in the afternoon and the temperature has come vp to twenty-seven degrees below zero. Our new visitor is a sprightly little fellow ; drives an excellent dog-team, of which he seems to be very proud ; and is the most promising-looking young hunter we have seen. He is dressed in the usual suit of bear and fox-pelts ; but they are all new, and show evidence of care. He is evidently somebody's pet. Even among these poor savages the kindly care of female hands is manifest upon the favourite young fellows. He con- A YOUNQ LOVER. 187 fcssos his liaving a swet'thenrt in Nctlik, and thitlicr hv. is bound. Love's tokens pass everywhere — our Escpii- Tnaiix has a bundle of bird-skins to make an under- garment lor his fair one. We presented him with a small pocket-knife, and a piece of wood ; both of which pleased him greatly. With the latter he at once spliced his whipstock. I gave him a couple of needles for his intended bride ; and Sonntag added a string of beads for her. These attentions put him almost beside himself with joy ; but he afterwards seemed pained that he could offer to us no suitiibb return. He had nothing on his sledge (liis huntin; ■ equipment of course excepted) but two small pieces oi ilul^ber, four birds, al)out a pound of bear's meat, a piece of bear's skin, and that insepa- rable companion of every Esquimaux hunter, a small lamp. All these he laid at our feet ; and soon he was dashing up the coast apparently unable to contain his impatience to show his treasures to the eyes whose approval he valued more than that of all the world beside. con- October 30th. — We have given up all thought of capturing seals; and we rely upon supplies from the Esquimaux, upon game fi'om our traps, and upon the stone-moss. Mr. Sonntag, Mr. Bonsall, and William Godfrey are out after the last. I go with John to the north. We have made two more traps. Petersen lias gone as usual to the south. George Whipple has kej)t wat(;h at the hut ; he is not well. Stephenson has another re- lapse : but this is not as bad as his Ibrnier attacks. The H n I I 188 AN ARCTIC r.OAT JOURNEY. wcatluT is fine. Tlie air is cairn, and tho skv clear. The ternperatiirc at ten o'clock in the morning was at thirty, at twelve o'clock it rose to eighteen, and at three o'clock in the afternoon it stood at thirty-one degrees below zero ; yet our hut is not uncomfortfdile. One of my little household gods is " David Copper- field ; " and I spent the evening reading aloud of the early struggles of the widow's son. Ocfohcr Z\st. — The day differs from yesterday only in a slight change in the arrangement of the drmiKttis ])ersoi?ce. Petersen stayed at home to do some tinker- ing ; — making of hoop-iron some knives for the Esqui- maux. Bonsall and myself took his place. We found that one of the traps had been entered, but that the door had been caught in f[dling, and the animal had escaped. A fox ^^ad been sitting on another trap ; but he was too cunning to venture inside. Mr. Sonntag visited the traps at the north, all of which he found empty. He built a new one and collected some stone- moss. The temperature to-day has been almost the same as that of yesterday. At the same hours at which the thermometer was then noted, it has stood to-day at 27°, 26°, and 31° below zero. Some fleecy clouds hang around the horizon ; and they have been beautifully illuminated, for many hours, by the sun, only a small part of whose disk Avas seen above the ice at noonday. We could, of course, see even that part of it only by refi-action. The god of day lias gone to the south, and the long winter night is at length upon us. DOUUTFUL TLANsi. 189 y cU'.'ir. ^ was at at tliret; degrees Co])per- 1 of the ay only ramatis tinker- Esqiii- e found hat the lal had p; but >onntag found stone- ame as h the at 2 70 ; and lours, t seen see 3f day t is at Thus far we have avoided talking mucli of our pro- spects, for none of us had matured any pkuis. Indeed, whatever we might have projected, nothing couhl have been done hitherto, except what has ah-eady Ijeen ac- complished ; but, now that the sea is ibr the most part closed, a movement hence may be practicable. The first proposal made, was that above mentioned, namely : to endeavour to live l)y whatever avaihd)le means, during four weeks longer, and then to continue our journey over the ice southward. Many phases of this .scheme were considered in turn. The alacrity manifested during our discussion was most gratiiying. If the Esqidmaux would not undertake to cany us southward on their sledges, it was proposed that we should purchase their teams ; and if they would not sell as many as would be required to convey our entire party, that we should trade with them for dogs enough to transport one half of us, — the other half remaining, either to live with the natives until the former should bring succour, or to find their way to the brig. A little calm reflection, and a few words from prac- tical Petersen, showed that of all of our suggestions, the execution was too doubtful. In the first place, the dis- tance to Upernavik is fully seven hundred miles by the tortuous route we must follow. We could make one journey to Akbat, thirty miles ; a second to Cape York, from seventy to a hundred miles further ; but then we should reach Melville Bay, of which, as it is in winter, no one knew anything except that its shores were wholly uninhabited; it was, probably, not entirely closed, and the ice upon it must be rough ; we should A rJ 1 190 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. not be certain of finding game ; and ibr so many perHonH the sledges could not carry a sufficiency of Ibod. If on(! half of our party should be lei't behind, they would probably be destroyed by the Esfjuimaux, as the ibrce would not be strong enough to resist attack. It seemed too unpromising to undertake, in the dead of winter, to cross an icy desert of six hiuulred miles, with no other shelter than a snow-hut, and with no other resource for food than the precarious hunt. That the Escjuimaux would not go with us appeared certain ; and it was not probable that they would sell their teams. Nevertheless the plan is a favourite one with the party, and it is not easily abandoned. If it could be carried out in any sliape, all of our objects would be attained. Wc should be in Upernavik more than six months before the arrival of the ^ balers on their way northward, in the summer. We dismiss the subject for the present, intending to talk of it to the Esquimaux when they shall come to us again. All of our party are agreed that, come what may, we must endeavour to open communication with Rensselaer Harbour, and obtain a supply of food irom the abundant stock of pork and bread of the Advance. If we can accomplish such a reinforcement of our stores as will sustain us during the winter, we may, in case our De- cember scheme shall prove abortive, go to Cape York, and there await the arrival of the whalers, who always pass in July within hailing distance of that point. Every day makes us feel more and more how depen- dent we are upon the Esquimaux ; yet our confidence in them, never great, was shaken during the last visit but one we have received fi-om them, and we must in pen- ence visit ,t in COMMUNICATION WITH THE LRia. v.n Home way speedily reiulur ourselvcH iiulcpeiiUunt of them. Tlie only concluHion upon which we agree, is that we must, in ' first place, establish communication with the brig ' jnsselaer Ilaibour, This is recognised by all of us i4.' a necessity ; but how it is to be effected we do not see. The danger of the attempt would ])e second only to that of our proposed southern journey. We are three luuKh-ed miles from the brig, and to travel that distance over the ice at this season of the year, is truly a grave enterprise. What shall we do ? I f$ 1 B 192 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. CHAP. XIX. PLANS FOR OBTAINING SUPPLIES. The subject of our miserable condition was resumed the following evening. Petersen volunteered to go, at the earliest opportunity, to Netlik, and to endeavour there to organise a caravan of sledges to proceed to the brig for provisions. I believe that there was not a member of the party who would not willingly have undertaken the dangerous task ; but Petersen was clearly the best fitted by his ex2:)erience for the service. Indeed, he was the only one of us who could talk with the natives. Kalutunah, the wry man whom we wished most to see, came next day, accompanied by a young hunter of Netlik, and by a woman with a child, which she carried in a hood upon her l)ack. The little creature was not six months old ; and yet, wrapped up in fox-skins, and lying close to its mother's back, its fur-covered head peeping above her left shoulder, it did noi; seem to suffer from the long exposiire. I was never more struck with the hardihood and indiifei'(>nce to cold, manifested by these people, than on this occasion. This woman had subjected herself YISITORS. 193 > go, «t Icavour I to the ^ not u y have n was service. Ik with most to [inter of carried kas not ins, and 'd head ieeni to lod and L', than herself to a temperature of thirty-five degrees below zero, with the HabiHty to be caught in a gale ; had travelled forty miles over a track tlie roughness of which frequently compelled her to dismount li-om tho sledge and walk ; she had carried her child all the way ; her sole motive being her curiosity to see the white men, their igloo (hut), and their strange treasures. We must at least concede that she manifested extraordinary courage and endurance in the gratifying of her desire. Kalutmiah and his companion had each a sledge ; and each brought some pieces of walrus-beef and blubber, for which we j)aid them liberally with wood fi'om the Hope. Petv?rsen was soon in conversation with them, with respect to our contemplated journey to the south. Kalutunah had hoard before of Upernavik, and he was greatly pleased with Petersen's description of its riches ; its abundant wood and iron ; its never-ending suj^ply of seal, and walrus, and narwhal, and fox, and reindeer. He would like to live there ; would like to take his family and all his people there ; but it was impossible. No one could cross the great frozen sea — the " Melville Bay ice." Kalutunah did not know when his people had com- municated with the south ; but there is a tradition to the effect that Innuit (men), that is, Esquimaux, live there ; and that they once had intercourse with his own immediate tribe. This fact has an important bearing upon the climat- ology of the region, and upon the physical aspects of Greenland and its adjacent waters. If the Esquimaux of the coasts bordering Baffin's Bay on the north and f 194 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. (i,: south once held intercourse with each other, as is as- serted hy this tradition, then the intervening space (Melville Bay) was in a different condition from that in which we found it — that is, so completely ice- locked that no human being could live there. Kalutunah declared that unless there were on the way good hunt- ing-grounds, none of his people would undertake to cross the hay. The Esquimaux, doubtless, once inhabited the whole coast from Cape Farewell to the extreme north point of Greenland : now, an imsurveyed ice coast-line sweeps around the head of the bay, for two hundred miles, being broken only at a few intervals by lofty capes — at least such is its apj)earance when observed from the sea at the distance of twenty miles, the nearest at which ships are able to approach. This ice coast-line is formed by the edges of the great glacier masses which come slowly gliding down the valleys from the icy reservui^ of the interior, the vast Jiie?' de glace of the continent. From it are dis- charged in this way mto the bay enormous icebergs, which clog h, and make it what it now is, — an '.r.imense, impenetrable ^''llaerness, which prows worse aid worse, as it chills the air and extends into the wat r more and more with the lapse of each year and century. The idea of passing this natural barrier seemed to Kalutunah as absurd as a scheme for flying to the moon would appear to us. It was a sul^ject not to be seri- ously entertained for a moment. When reminded that his forefathers had done it, he merely replied, that then there was much less ice there, and that they had kayaks (canoes), and that the journey was performed in the ATTEMPTED BARGAIN. 195 is as- ; space that in -locked lutunali i hunt- •take to e whole point of i sweeps d miles, pes — at 11 the sea at which ;s of the irr down irioY, the are dis- 1 icebergs, |.:--amense, id worse, nore and Umed to [he moon ibe seri- ided that Ihat then Id kayaks in the Uperaak, the midsummer, or season of thaw. The " Frozen Sea " is to his people what the tropics were to the Europeans before the days of De Gama, a place of death and destruction to all v^^ o should have the audacity to enter it. The fici^ i tt of the equatorial sun could not have been endued \v ith more imaginary terrors than tliose with wdiich the mind of this hardy son of the frost invested the ice-desert which lay border- ing!: his huntin2:-ffrounds on the south. He laughed outright when it was proposed that he should sell to us dogs witli which to make the journey. He would not sell dogs for any purpose, or at any price ; and for the best of reasons, namely, that they had none which they could spare. This I did not believe ; for there were in the settlement more dogs than the owners had any possible use for, except to eat ; and with a little additional exertion, they could seldom be reduced to such an extremity as to be obliged to kill their teams for such a purpose. We had, however, made up our minds to possess o"*i.roolyes of a team if possible; for in any case it wordd ha found useful, " Would not his people sell us n.- many dogs as we wanted if we would give them our boat, and all the wood and iron we had?" — " No ! " — " They could not spare their dogs ! " The truth lay in quite another direction, and was revealed by his tell-tale eyes, whicli said as plainly as so many words, " We are in a fair way to get all we want with- out troubling ourselves ; " and he sucked in his cheeks in imitation of our lank faces, and then looked know- ingly at the woman, who returned the salute with an expressi'/e nod. We were now unwillingly compelled to acknowledge, o 2 p I, I il i 196 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUENEY. in > as Petersen liad told us at first would be the case, that it was idle to think of making a midwinter journey to Upernavik ; and we settled down upon another scheme which, if it could be carriiul out, would accomplish our object. This Was, to live through the Avinter by what- ever means we coidd, and early in the spring go to Cape York, carrying our boat over the ice, and there await the fc.1 rival of the whaling fleet on their way northward. This plan involved many risks, but nothing else appeared possible for us. Not least among these risks was the liabi- lity to failure of our stores ; and we must, therefore, pro- cure for ourselves a sufficiency of food to insure us against starvati^.x while our plans and the means of executing them were maturing. Accordingly, the sub- ject of continuing our journey was dropped, and one of more immediate importance was substituted. The Esquimaux seemed to receive favourably the pro- position of going to the shii^ ; and said, that at least four sledges should accompany Petersen, provided we would give to each driver a fine knife and some wood. To this we readily agreed ; and Petersen awaited only the arrival of the morning to stai't. To the woman and her baby Was given a place in the corner ; and what we now learned to know as the " Ilosky's bed " (the Avhalers nickname the natives in the south, Hosky) was spread upon the floor for the men. Hitherto we had tried to keep them away from our own proper bedding, on account of certain uncompanionable little representa- tives of natural history which roam in droves over their persons ; but our gallantry was now put to the test, as it would never do to turn a woman out upon the floor to sleej), — especially, since she had done us the honour rilErATlATIONS FOR A JOURNEY. 107 ', that ncy to cheme sli our what- Cape rait the hward. )pcared e liabi- re, pro- sure us leans of he sub- 1 one of to come forty miles to see us. We therefore sacrificed a hhuiket to tlie motlier and lier cldld, and crowded a\v;iy from tliem as far as our limited quarters would allow. The tonmies Avhieh had seemed never to tire of numinjr were soon silenced by sleep. This sudden, ;md I may also say, imexpected assent to our proposition wns received with great joy on our part ; and preparations were at once busily made for getting Petersen ready for his hard journey. The hunters told us what Ave had scarcely expected, that tlie sea at the north was closed, even at Cape Alexander ; and, as if to prove this, they stated that a sledge luid come from the village of Etah, Avhich is fifteen miles north-east from that cape, bringing intelligenc(? from Kensselaer IIar])our. Some of the people of Etah had l)een to the Oomeaksoak. Our comrades at the Ad- vance were very sick, (and here Kalutunah laid his head on his arm, and tried to make a sad face,) and Hans had had his hand injured by the explosion of a powder-flask. The relation of this last incident con- vinced us that what they said was true, since tliey could hardly cook up such a story. We were aroused in tlie middle of the night by voices calling loudly doAvn by the beach. We were used to such sounds now, and upon going out found there the young lover who had passed up the coast a few days before. He Avas accompanied by a Avidow, neither young nor beautiful, one of tAVO Avomen Avdio had returned nortliAvard Avith Kalutunah after his first southern visit. The ncAV comers Avere invited into the hut, and treated Avith the consideration due to them as guests. o a AN ARCTIC EOA.T JOURNEY. The facilities for the display of hospitality in the " Wanderer's House," as our den was fitly called, con- Bidering who lived in it and who visited it, were poor enough. All w^ho came seemed to have learned this, for they brought their own provisions. The widow carried in her arms a load of frozen birds, and the boy a chunk of walrus-meat. They did not seem fatigued nor cold, although they must have been exposed I'ully ten hours ; and they were scarcely seated before they began to eat. They of course threw the hut into con- fusion, much to the annoyance of Petersen, who wanted to get some sleep prepai'atory to starting ; but it was soon evident that sleep Avas out of the question, for several hours at least. The woman with the baby w\is asking question upon question, which the widow was doing her best to answer. The two hunters on the iloor were sitting up, rubbing their greasy eyes, and trying to fiuv^ -^pace for a few words; while the young lover, who was a general fi. ourite, was laughing and playing with Godfrey, who was indulging in some of his negro burlesques. We tendered to the widow the use of oiir cooking apparatus ; but she seemed disinclined to be troubled with it, and the food was eaten raw. The man, her companion, broke off piece after piece of his frozen walrus, and the widow skinned and devoured her birds with no less rapidity. Four lunnne of resjoectablc size disaj)pcared in an astonishingly short space of time. She very kindly offered to share with us ; and, singling out the asti'onomer, who occupied the seat next to her, she made him the special object of her regard, chewing up for him a large lump of bird-flesli ; but Sonntag n the I, con- e poor i this, widow le boy itiguod d fully •c they to con- wanted it was on, for ihy Avas )W was on the es, and i young ng and c of his cooking iroubled lui, her frozen ?r birds ble size time, jingling to her, Ihewing lonntag THE WIDOW. 199 was compelled to plead a full stomach. So great a courtesy she did not expect would be declined mider any pretence, and she seemed quite mortified ; but nothing daunted, she passed the lump over to me ; but no, I could not oblige her. With quite a desponding face she crossed the floor and tried Whip})le. Not meeting with success in that quarter she came back to Mr. Bonsall, who was already quite a philosopher in making his tastes subservient to his physical wants. " Now for it, Bonsall ! " cried Petersen. These words of encouragement had the effect to call forth a hearty laugh on all sides ; which, being misunderstood by the widow, she hastily withdrew her offering of friend.^l ip, bolted it herself, and in offended silence went on wdth her work of skinning birds and swallowing them. We all felt that henceforth we should have an enemy in the widow. This widow greatly interested me. She ate birds for conscience' sake. Her husband's soul had passed into the body of a walrus as a temporary habitation, and the Angekok had prescribed, that, for a certain period, she should not eat the flesh of this animal ; and since at this time of year bear and seal were scarce, she was compelled to fall back upon a small stock of birds which had been collected during the previous summer. This penance was of a kind which every Esquimaux undergoes upon tie death of a near relation. The Angekok announces to the mourners into what animal the soul of the departed has j^assed ; and henceforth, until the spirit has shifted its quarters, they are not to partake of the flesh of that animal. This may be a o 4 u i ! II soo AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. bear, a seal, a walrus, a liimmc, a biirgomastcr-gul], or any other embraced witliiii tlieir liiiiited l)ill of fare. The widow liad one practice which, notwithstanding that it related to the same serious subject, caused us not a little amusement. Her late husljnnd, for whose sake she refrained from eating walrus, met with his death last Upernak (sunuuer), by being carried out to sea on a loose cake of ice to which he had imprudently gone to watch lor seal. The tide having changed, the floating raft was disengaged from the land ; and, in full view of his family and friends, the poor hunter drifted out into the middle of Baffin's Bay, never to be heard of more. It happened that, during the evening, the name of this hunter was mentioned several times, always in terms of warm praise, and each time his widow shed a copious flood of tears. Petersen told us that all strangers Avere expected to join in this ceremony. Our first attempt, I fear, made a poor shoAV of sorrow ; but the second was perfect of its kind. The motions could not have been surpassed, even had the cause of grief been a rich banker, and the mourners his heirs. The tears were hardest to manage ; but a sufficient quantity found their way to the surface to satisfy the bereaved one that her grief was appreciated by us, and she re- sumed her lively maimer, so far forgetting our former discourtesy in our present respect for her sorrow, that she tried again to treat us to munched meat. At length, to the great joy of Petersen, these cere- monies were ended ; and when told that w^e wished to sleep, with an instinctive politeness, which was as well appreciated as it was delicate, our savage guests crawled into their respective places, and in a lew moments the hut was quiet. I DErARTURE OF TETERSEN. 2U1 ; but could :caved [le re- former r, that cere- k'ished las as ruests lew November ord. — Peterson was off witli the early morn, under the special charge of Kalutunah ; on whose sledge rode, also, the woman and the bahy. Godfrey went with him, and was carried on the other sledge. We did not part from Petersen without many mis- givings, lie has a journey before him of three liunch-ed miles; and he is in the liJinds of men in whom we have very little confidence; yet the great l)ribis that we have offered may be sufficient to purchase fidelity, lie carries a letter from me to Dr. Kane, informing him of our condition and wants. Godfrey has gone mainly at his own request, and may be of service. In case the Esquimaux should fail to make the promised journey to the ship, then Petersen is to endeavor to purchase a teiim, and go with Godfrey alone. Failing this, he will try to make some jii-range- ment l)y Avhich we can join the natives in the hvmt. Our chief difficulty is the want of dogs, without which the bears cannot be successfully pursued. It has long been one of our schemes to add our rifles to the sledge parties of the Esquimaux for nmtual aid. This, however, would involve the giving up of our pui'pose to go south- ward, and the compk'te destruction of all our equijmient; for, in order to carry out sucli a plan, we should be obliged to abandon our hut and take up our quarters at Netlik, or at Northumberland Island. Not being able to take with us our boat or any important part of our pro- perty, we should be left entirely dependent on the Es- quimaux. The means now in our hands for advancing or retreating must be finally abandoned, for the moment w^e should be out of the hut it would be pillaged and torn to pieces. f"'U t ! 91 m f i 1 202 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. In consoquencG of a liglit breeze from the south the boy and the widow remained with uh. It grew cahn in tlie allernoon ; and tlie moon being full, and the air clear, they could travel as well by night as by day. They leil us at eight o'clock ii the evening. Mr. Soinitag and John have gone with them, carrying many presents, with the hoj)e of securing thereby a supply of meat, which would not otherwise be brought to us. The weather is very fine, the temperature 30° below zero ; and everything looks promising except in our poor hut. Stephenson is very sick, and I fear to leave him for an hour. The apartment has grown cold ; the temperature is not above 20° anywhere ; and at the floor it is below zero. 203 CIIxVP. XX. PETERSEN. Our expectations witli respect to our own personal safety and the success of our Cape York i)rojeet ^vere now centered in Petersen. If lie should tail, there was no hope of carrying out, at the opening of spring, our recently formed resolution. Our confidence in him was great; and, for my own part, I entertained no doubt that if the object of his journey could be accomplished through human endurance and perseverance, it would l)e by him. Danger and exposure had long been familiar to him, and I felt well assured that one who had never before quailed would not be found wanting now. For this his whole life was a guaranty. John Carl Christian Petersen was born in Copenhagen about forty-five years ago. Early in life he was apprenticed to a cooper; but growing tired of the restraints to whicii this situation subjected him, he shipped on board an Icelandic packet, and went in search of freedom and fortune. Iceland pleased him less than Denmark ; and, after a short stay, he retui'ned home to engage himself soon after as cooper for the colony of Disco in North Greenland. At Disco and the adjacent settlements he li^'ed during 204 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. several years, marryinp: in that time a resident of tlio country, wlio made him an excellent and devoted wife, and ])y wliom lie liad two cliil(h-en, a pjirl and a boy. Wliiki at Disco he met Avitli a serious accident. On " King Christian's day," wliilst enn^ap^ed in re-h)adinjx a camioii whicli had ])een fired in honour of tlie occasion, he was l)a(lly injured hy a premature discliarge of the piece. By this misfortune liis liand and Avrist were permanently stiffened to such an extent that he was no longer .aide to fulfil the duties of his station. lie was, therefore, promoted to the post of vice-governor or assistant-manager of the settlement of Upernavik, the most northern of Danisli stations in Greenland. To this place he removed with his family, and remained there until 1850, when Captain Penny, with the two ships Lady Fraid Q-lim- vapour could itlioiit et, and quired mark brtune mpty ; vc had 11 con- 1 only meals, -moss ; kk and VALUE OF BOOKS. 209 1 sickly. The hours hung •wearily on our hands. Our usual joint resources failed us. With our mittened fingers Ave could not manage the cards which had, heretofore, been one of our sure means of diversion. The circumstances were too depressing for us to feel our ordinary interest in reading aloud, or in listening ; and the time was passed mostly in silence. Yet never had I appreciated the value of books as 1 then did. Bonsai fvS copy of " Waverley " was an unfailing friend. Upon leaving the brig I had selected from the narrow shelf which held the little library that I had leai-ned to love so well during the last long winter, three small books, which I thrust into my already ci'owded clothes-bag. They were the before-mentioned volume of Dickens, the ^' In Memoriam," and a small pocket-Bible ; all parting gifts from kind friends to me when leaving home ; and all doubly precious, — for themselves, and for the mem- ories vdiich they recalled. They had become thoroughly water-soaked when the Ironsides filled off Cape Alexan- der ; but I had dried them in the sun ; and although they were torn, and their backs were loose, there was no part lost. I kept them under my head as helps for a pillow, and for their companionship. I had brought, beside, two volumes of " Anatomy " and one of " Practice," as the most convenient form in which to carry waste paper for lighting fires. Nearly all of the " Anatomy " had been consumed during the journey down the coast ; but I had saved the " nerves " and the "muscles;" and, in retracing the ramifications of the one, and the attachments of the other, I passed cheerfully many an hour that would otl unwise have i'^'X it. AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. weiglied heavily upon me. The " Practice " was now being fast sacrificed ; but I got a start of the cooks, and kept ahead of them. My great hixury during all this time was a short clay pipe, which I smoked almost continually. I had learned so to do, in self-defence, early in the cruise ; for, without smoking myself, I found it almost impossible to bear the atmosphere of our tents or snow-houses ; and being unwilling to occasion any feeling of restraint among my companions, I fought through the preliminary sickness, and could now smoke crumbled " pig-tail " with the veriest tar on earth. On the evening of the 6th of November, Mr. Sonn- tag and John came back to us. Their arrival was most opportune, for we had eaten every ounce of meat which was on hand when they letl us. They were brought by two Esquimaux, whose sledges carried a supply of food sufficient to last us for several days. They had a part of two bears' legs, several other small pieces of meat, and a bear's liver This last the Esquimaux will not eat, but we were glad enough to get it. There were, besides, some pieces of blubber, about two dozens of lumme and burgomaster-gulls, and as many dried auks. Ill this provision had been purchased for fifty needles and a sheath-knife, — a small price where these imple- ments are abundant, but an exorbitant one in the estimation of our Esquimaux. These native fi'iends were getting to be very Jews in their bargainings. Heaven knows Ave did not grudge the poor creatures the few paltry things of which they stand so much in need ; but, with us, the case was one of hfe and deatli ; and, RETURN OF MR. SONNTAG. 211 now , and ; clay irned thout bear being ,gmy kness, h the Sonn- s most which ght by pf food a part meat, i]l not were, ens of aulvs. edles imple- in the H were ieaven lie few need ; ; and, le l)y keeping up the price, we prevented the market from being overstocked. A needle was worth to them more than a hundred times its weight in gold. Ours had become quite notorious, and by this time every woman in the tribe had at least one of them. Some of the women had nearly a dozen apiece. They were a won- derful improvement over the coarse bone instruments which they had hitherto used. Mr. Sonntag and John had a hard journey. The track was rough. High ridges of hummocked ice lay across the mouth of Wolstenholme Sound, and through these they were compelled to pick a tortuous passage. On their way down they were obliged to walk a large portion of the time, because partly of the roughness of the road, and partly of the lact that there were four })ersons to one sledge. Tliey Avere quartered in a double hut, one in each division of it, and were treated with great kindness and civility. They returned to us look- ing hale and hearty, and made our mouths fairly water with glowing descriptions of unstinted feasts. They had been living on the fat of the land, — upon bear^ fox, and I^uppy, the best dishes in the Esquimaux larder at this time of year. Yet Ibod was scarce at Akbat, and hence they brought little. The hunters, who returned with them, remained with us during the night ; and next morning, alter having received a few trifling presents, they started oiF to tlie westward to hunt. I asked them to take JNIr. Bonsall and myself, to aid them with our guns, but they reliised us. They were going in pursuit of the bear, and must have their sledges as light as possible. p 2 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. • I went flown with them to the beach when they started, and I thus obtained a better opportunity than I had hitherto enjoycid of examining the travelHng gear and hunting equipment of this singidar people. First, were the dogs. Tliese were picketed, each team separately, on a level space between the pile of rocks below our tent and the shore ; and as we approached them from above, they sprang up from the knotted heap in which they had been lying through the night, and greeted us with a wild, savage yell, which died away into a low whine and impatient snarl. They evidently wanted their breakfast, and it seemed to be their masters' intention to gratify them ; for, going to their sledges, each one brought up a flat piece of something which looked more like plate-iron than anything else ; but which, upon examination, I found to be walrus hide. It was three quarters of an inch thick, and vras frozen intensely hard. Throwing it upon the snow a few feet in advance of their respective teams, they drew their knives from their boots and attempted to cut the skin into pieces; but ths frost had been more severe than they had counted on, and the dogs seemed likely to come off badly, when, discovering the dilemma, I ran up for our hatchet and saw. With the aid of these instruments they reduced the skin to fi-agments, which were scattered among the teams, to be scrambled for with a greedy ferocity quite characteristic of an Esquimaux dog. During the ten minutes occupied with this operation, the animals had become almost frantic. They tried hard to break loose; pulling on their traces, running back and springing forward, straining and choking ESQUIMAUX DOGS. 213 and oking themselves until their eyes glared and the foam flew from their mouths. I remembered my experience with two such teams four weeks before, and once more congratulated myself upon having escaped their wolfish fangs. The sight of food had loosened their wild passions, and they seemed to be ready to eat each other. Not a moment passed that tAVo or more of them were not flying at each other's throats, and, clinched together, rolling, tossing, and tumbling over the snow. The masters seemed quite unconcerned, except when one of them would appear to be in danger of being injured, when an angry, nasal "Ay! Ay!" would for H moment restore discipline. A more fierce exhibition of animal passion I think I never saw. When at length the food was thrown to them, they uttered a greedy scream, which was followed by an instant of silence while the pieces were falling, then by a scuffle, and the hard stony chunks were gone. How they were swallowed or digested was to me inexplicable. The animals noAV became gentle enough, and lay quietly down. The Esquimaux dog is of medium size, squarely built ; and, as was observed in a former chapter, is a reclaimed wolf, and exhibits the variety of colour which, after a few generations, generally characterises tame animals. Grey is often seen, and it was probably once the prevailing colour. Some of the dogs are black, with white breasts ; some are entirely white ; others are reddish or yellowish ; and indeed, there may be seen among them almost every shade. Their skin is covered with coarse, compact fur, and is greatly prized p 3 11 I ' 214 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. by the natives for clothing. There is mucli variety in form, but the general type has a pointed nose, short ears, a cowardly, treacherous eye, and a hanging tail. To this there are some exceptions ; and most striking among those that I have seen, was a specimen brought home by Dr. Kane. This dog, named by the sailors " Toodlnmik," short- ened into " Toodla," was tak(^n from Upernavik, and survived all the disasters of the cruise to fall, at last, a victim to a Philadelphia summer. His skin, stuffed and set up with lifelike expression, now graces the gallery of the excellent museum of the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences. He differed fi-om his kind in having a more compact head, a less pointed nose, an eye denoting affection and reliance, and an erect, bold, fearless carriage. I must express a doubt, however, as to his purity of blood. From the begin- ning to the end of the cruise he was master of all the dogs that were brought to the ship. In this con- nection it is worthy of remark, that, in every pack, there is one who is master of the whole, — a sort of Major-General; and in each team, one who is master of his comrades, — a General of Brigade. Once master, always master ; but the post of honour is gained at the expense of many a lame leg and ghastly wound, and is only held by daily doing battle with rivals. These could easily gain the ascendency in every case, but for their own petty jealousies, which often prevent their union for such a purpose. If a combination does take place, and the leader is hopelessly beaten, he is never worth anything afterward ; his spirit is gone for ever, DESCRIPTION OF A SLEDGE. 215 anrl the poor fellow pines away, and finally dies oi" a broken heart. Toodla was a character in his Avav. He was a tyrant of no nioan pretension. He seemed to consider it his especial duty to trounce eyer dog, great or small, that was added to our pack, — if the animal was a large one, in order, probably, that he might at once be madt; aware that he had a master; if a small one, in order that the others might hold him in the greater awe. It was sometimes quite amusing to see him leaye the ship's side, in pursuit of a strange dog, his head erect, his tail gracefully curled oyer his back, going slowly and deliber; eh at his mark, with the confident, defiant air of onr wh-> feels his jwwer and the importance of his office. There were often combinations against him, no doubt induced by the very desperate nature of the cir- cun^ "^ances ; but he always succeeded in breaking the cabal ; not, however, I am bound to say, always without assistance ; for the sailors, who were very fond of him, sometimes took his part, when he was unusually hard pressed. A brave dog was Toodla ! Leaving the dogs, we went to the sledges to get them ready for starting. While the preparations were being made, I examined one of them minutely. It "was, almost without exception, the most ingeniously contrived specimen of the mechanic art that I have ever seen. It was made wholb'' of bone and leather. The runners, which were square behind and rounded upward in front, and about five feet long, seven inches high, and three-fourths of an inch thick, were slabs of bone ; not solid, but composed of a number of pieces, of various p 4 \ ' ^' I ||{iii i i! Wii 21C AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. ►shapes and sizen, cunningly fitted and tiglitly laslied together. Some of tliese were not larger than one's two fingers, some were three or four inclies square, others were triangular, the size of one's hand ; while others, again, were several inches long and two or three broad. These pieces Avere all fitted together as neatly as the hlocks of a Chinese puzzle. Near their margins were rows of little holes, through which were nm strings of seal-skins, hy which the blocks were fastened together, making a slab almost as firm as a board. These bones are flattened and cut into the required shape with stones. The grinding needed to make a single runner must be a work of mouths ; but the con- struction of an entire new sledge, I was afterwards in- formed, was unheard of in the present generation. Repairs are made as any part becomes broken or decayed ; but a vehicle of this kind is a family heir- loom, and is handed down from generation to genera- tion. The origin of some of the Esquimaux sledges dates back beyond tradition. Upon turning over the specimen before me, I found that the runners were shod with ivory fi-om the tusk of the walrus. This, also, had been ground flat and its corners squared with stones ; and it was fastened to the runner by a string which was looped through two counter-sunk holes. This sole was composed of a number of pieces, but the surface was uniform and as smooth as glass. The rimners stood about fourteen inches apart, and were fastened together by bones, tightly lashed to them. These cross pieces were the femur of the bear, the mOVISION FOR A JOURNEY. 217 / nntlors of tlie reindeer, and the ribs of the narwlial. Two wah'us ribs were lashed, one to the after-end of each runner, for iipstandern, and were l)raced by a piece of reindeer antler, secured across the top. On this rude yet complicated and diificult con- trivance was to be stowed an e([ually rude equipment. This, such as it was, had been placed under our l)oat, in security against tlie dogs in case they should gnaw themselves loose during the night. First, one of the hunters drew out a piece of seal-skin, which he spread over the sledge, and fastened tightly by little strings attached to its margin. On this he placed a small piece of walrus skin (another meal for the dogs), a piece of blubber, and another of meat. This last was his lunch ; and, although he was bound upon a hunt •which might last during several days, it was all that he would get until he should capture fresh provision. If this good fortune shoidd not happen to him, he would not return home until on the eve of starving. During his absence he would not cook any food ; but he would want water. He therefore carried a small stone dish which was his " kotluk " or lamp, a lump of" mannek" or dried moss, to be used for wick, and some willow blossoms (na-owinak) for tinder. These last were carefully wrapped up in a bird-skin to keep them dry. He had also a piece of iron-stone (ujarak-sjiviminilik) and a small sharp fragment of flint. These were his means for striking a spark. Let us follow him in his future proceedings : he grows thirsty ; he will halt, scrape away the snow until he comes down to the solid ice, in which he will T[ ' ' "A- 218 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. scoop a small cavity. Then lio will got a ])lock of fresh ice from a neigh bouri.ig berg, and, starting his himp (using the hhOibcr for fuel), he will place this block close beside the flame, having previously set the lamp beside the cavity. It is a slow operation ; T)ut by and by the water will begin to trickle down into the liole, and when he thinks there is enough melted to satisfy his thirst, he will remove the fixtures, and, kneeling down, will drink the soot-stained fluid. If h(^ grows hungry he will break off some chips from his lump of frozen walrus-l)eef, and cut a few slices from the blul)ber, and mnka of these his uncooked meal ; but he will not have any fire to warm himself. No people in the world have less of this than these children of the ice-deserts. Each of our visitors carries with him an extra pair of boots, another of stockings (dog-skin), and another of mittens. These he will use if he should have the misfortune to get on thin ice and break through. Having placed all the above-mentioned articles upon the sledge, the owner threw over them a piece of bear- skin, which was doubled, so that when opened it would be just large enough to keep his body from the snow, if he should wish to lie down to rest. He then drew out a long line, fast^nied one end of it through a hole in the forward part o. one of the runners, ran it across diagonally to the opposite runner, passed it through a hole there, and so on to and fro, from side to side, until he reached the other end of the sledg \ where the line was made fast, and the cargo was thus secured against all danger of loss by an upset. He then hung DOG HARNESS. 219 to one npstander a coil of heavy line, und to tlie otlier a li;^]itcr one; and tied them fust witli a small Htrinpr. Tlie former of these coils was liis harj>oon line for catching walrns, the latter, that for catcliing seal. His harpoon staff was a heavy piece of ivory, — the horn, or rather tooth, of the narwhal. It was five feet hnig, two inches in diameter at one end, tapering to a point at tlie other. All being ready, the dogs, seven in number, were next l)rought up, led l)y their traces. The harness on tliem was no less simple than the cargo they had to draw. It consisted of two dou})led strips of liear- skin, one of which was placed on either side of the body if the animal, the two being fastened togethei- on the top of the neck and at the breast, thus forming a collar. Thence they passed inside of tlie dog's fore- legs, and up along the sides to the rump, where the four ends meeting together were fastened to a trace eighteen feet in length. This was connected with the sledge by a line four feet long, the ends of which were attached one to each runner. To the middle of this line was tied a strong string which was run through bone rings at the ends of the traces, and secured by a slipknot, easily untied. This arrangement was to insure safety in bear-hiuiting. The bear is chased imtil the sledge is within fifty yards of the prey, when the hunter leans forward and slips the knot, and the dogs, now loose from the sledge, quickly bring the bear to bay. Serious accidents sometimes happen in consequence of the knot getting foul. Ti;' hunter tries in vain to untie it, and before he can draw his > I i'v \i i ! k: ■ mm mm |> V 220 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. knife and cut it, (if indeed he sliould be fortunate euougli to liave a knife,) man, dogs, sleage and all are among the bear's legs, tangled inextricably, and at the mercy of the infuriated monster. The dogs were cold and eager to be off. They were hitclied to the sledge in a moment ; the hunter with his right liand threw out the coils of his long whiplash, with his left he seized an upstander, and pushing the sledge forward a few paces, he at the same moment shrilly sounded the familiar starting-cry " Ka ! Ka ! " — '' Ka ! Ka ! " which sent the dogs bounding to their places, and daslnrig dovvn over the rough ice-foot. The huni;er. guided his sledge among the hummocks, restrain-, ing the impetuosity of his team with the nasal " Ay ! Ay !" which they well understand., H;nnng reached the smooth ice, he dropped upon the sledge, let fall his whiplash upon the snow to trail after him, shouted " Ka ! Ka ! "— " Ka ! Ka ! " to his wolfish team, and was off at a wild gallop. I watched the sledges from the rocks below the hut until I grew cold. They moved gracefully over the heavy drifts, and wound skilfully among the hummocks. Sometimes they were lost to view for a moment in a valley or behind a wall of broken ice. At length they appeared only as dark specks upon the white horizon- Even when they wt^re almost lost to sight, a cheerful voice reached me through the clear air; and as I turned away, "- Ka ! Ka ! " — " Ka ! Ka 1 " rung in my ears. — Happy, care-deiying creat\ires ! I dropped through the door of our wretched hut; crawled through the dark passage, and rolled myself up the HAPPINESS. 221 in my blankets to get warm; half wishing, all the while, that I were a savage ; and thinking for the moment how happy I would be to exchange places with the men whom I had just watched. They were going out into the desert, laughing at and defying cold, wind, and storm ; caring for nothing, lamenting nothing, fearing nothmg ; in their oa\ti minds, creatures of a predeter- mined fate. hut the ■■r* I ^ AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEV. CHAP. XXII. FAILURE OF OUR FLANS. The Esr[uiiiiaux left us at eight o'clock in the morning ; at one in the afternoon we had made the romid of the traps and were all again assembled to- gether. Visiting the traps had by this time become ahnost a merely mechanical operation, performed wiixi only a vague hope that something might possi- bly be ibund ; and it was useful chiefly for exercise. So accustomed had we become to disappointment, that we went from trap to trap, re-baiting and re-set- ting, and often re-constructi?:g them, as if it were a part oi' our duty to do these things for their own sjdvc, without expectation of reward. To-day Mr. Sonntag and John rested. Wliipple was still unwel]. and did not venture out. Stephen- son had recovered from his late attack of sickness, and was able to sit up, but not to go abroad. This left now upon the active list only Mr. Bonsall and myself. Bonsall visited the north and I the south traps with the usual iln'tune. Upon our return, a cheerful cup of coffee, with some tender steaks of young bear's meat, tempo- ■ rarily dispelled tlic gloom wliich liad for several days reigned in our hut. The t(.'iiiper''tui-e of the apart- RETURN OF MR. PETERSEN. 223 [Yi the de the lied to- become •formed fc possi- xercise. ntment, re-set- were a ir own Whipple ^tephen- ickness, This sail and ith traps ee, with tempo- eral days le apart- ment came up to tlie freezing-point ; and we were in the midst of a joyous feast, talking cheerfully of our future prospects, and looking hopefully to the time at which our absent comrades should come back to us, with the wished-for relief, when we were startled by the unmistakable crunch of human footsteps upon the snow. We listened. A slow and measured tread, which was unaccompanied by any other sound, told us that some one was approaching. Who could it be ? The Esquimaux did not vso come. Their voices always first announced their presence. I looked around upon the faces of my companions, and read there a confirmation of my own fearful suspicion, — " It must be Petersen ! " Yet it might not be ; and, willing to catch at the famtest ray of hope, I hailed in Esquimaux, " Kina ? " — " Kina-una ? " (" Who ? — ^Vlio's there ? ") There was no answer save the solemn footfall. The man, whoever it was, halted close to the hut. A moment, and the sharp creak of the canvas cover over the doorway was heard ; then the man dropped through the orifice, uttering a deep moan. I opened the door ; and there, in the dimly-lighted passage, lay Petersen. He crawled sloAvly in ; and, staggering across the hut, sj\nk exhausted on the breck. God- frey was only a few paces behind him, and came in immediately afterward, even more broken. Their first utterance was a cry for " Water ! — water ! " I asked Petersen, " Are you frozen ? " — " No ! " — "Godfrey, are you?" — "No! but dreadful cold, and almost dead." Poor fellow ! he looked so. AN AKCTIC BOAT .lOUrtKKY. 'i i Thoy were iii n-' oortiition to .inswer questions; but they ratlicr nevdt'd i.ar iiuiuediate good offices. Tlieir clothing Avas stiff, and in front, was coated witli ice. From tlieir beards Inmg great lumps o[ it ; and their hair, ej'c^brows, and eyelashes were wliite with the condensed moisture of their breath. We aid(!d them in sti'ijiping off th'^ir frozen garments ; and then rolled them up in their blankets. Long exposure to th(? intense cold, fatigue, and himger, had benumbed their sensi}>ilities; and with the reaction which followed came a correspond- ing excitement. We gave them to drink of our hot coffee, and this, combined with the warmth of the hut, soon rev^ived them ; but the violence of the change produced a temporary bewilderment of mind, and the sleep which followed was troubled and restU^ss. Their frequent starts, groans, cries, and mutterings, told of the fearful dreams of cold, starvation, thirst, and murder by which they were distressed. It was not until the following morning that we obtained the full particulars of their journey ; but Petersen told us, while he drank his coffee, what it was necessary that we shoidd know at once. They had walked all the way from Netlik, where an at- tempt had been made to murder them. The Esqui- maux were in pursuit, and if not watched would attack our hut. So the Esquiinaux liad at length shown their colours ! Growing impatient, they had resolved upon getting possession of our propei'ty by the shortest means. What could be their scheme? They would ,1 i ions ; fTices. ; and witl) aided d tlien ', and \ with spond- of our mth of •nco of iiont of U'd and es, and )f cold, y were lat w^e ey ; but what it They an at- Esqui- would s-n their ved upon shortest would KEEPINa GUAIU). 225 surely pol venture to at til 7 iKvvweM^'ve witli g!Hs, y.'i It Wi! •■ unpossihlc l.U for us to know how nnmei'ous t]\vy were, ; r how niiieh they might rely U])on their ss'v rjorJts . Uiis respect. The idea at once suu^i^ested n.-"U. Tiiat, with a com- "nn m.rt W( 11 ])ination of focty or fifty ])ersoi>s, and, an ( directi'd, they might surprise us; and dashing in a ])ody fi'om tlie rocks above U])on the slender roof of our hut, they might bury us beneath the i-iiins, and hai'poon us if we should attempt to escape. We did Jiot fear a direct attack. A Avatcli was accordingly set and kept up dnring the m'jrht. 'J'hc sentinel was armed Avitli Jjonsalfs riile of our d nul was relieved every noiu' I '7 h fire-i 1 u-ms were Jiung upon rneu* usual pegs th The JH'inaindei d in the passagi', having been previously discharged and carei'ully reloaded. The iron boat was drawn ii[) in front of the hut. Th.e night wore away. Mr. Petersen and (lodfrey awoke, ate again, and fell l)ack into their slee[). The sentry marched to and li"o along the level ])lain, a i'ew rods to the eastward of the hut; and the creak, creak of his footsteps was distil 'Y heard as he trod over the irozen snow. In>id" the ): :tall was quiet, save now and then a k)W whisper, the heavy ;■ -eathing and occiisional delirious outcries of the returned travellers, and the noi^e made hy the periodical changingof the watch. Scarcely an eye except those of Petersen and GocUrey was closed in sleep. We were all too Ijusy Avitli oui' thoughts, and too much agitated by our anxieties. As 1 took my turn at tlu^ sentr ly 4A y spost, 1 was iinpre 'sse( 1 w^ith the strangeness of my situatK >n, -k iveei)inL:' u'uan .;>,*;*•"«* ^i?«; Ul: i^^*MTiKfii*ST« i.'fATftwiCniniiTren'TTm-m-.ra-ar !;i :l I i 226 AN ARCTIC LOAT JOURNEY. over the lives of eight poor, starving, shivering men ; and a,2rainst -what ? Not wihl l)easts, for in the wliole regit>n aromid there was no evidenee of tlieir existence ; indeed, it did not seem possilde tliat any such tilings could live in the desolation about me : not against tempest and storm, for the sky was without a cloud, and the air was hushed in tlie profound(;st silence ; but against creatures human like ourselves ! As 1 looked around upon the bleak rockr, and out u])on the frozen desert — all wrapt in niglit and still as death — and thought of the thronged world at the south ; and rejected, that " here where men are lew, as well as fhcre where they are m;iny, the com- mon wants and connnon sufferings of poor humanity are made to serve the purposes of cruel rivalries and selfish greed,'' I could not suppress a sigh over the hopelessness of attenipting to fhid anywhere " on earth, peace." At intervals, during the middle hours of the night, noises were distinctly heard in the direction of Fitz- clarence Rock ; and althoagh we could not at any time discover the speakers, yet it was evident tliat we were closelv watched. The savatres wei"e hovering around us ; and, hiding behind the bergs and rocks, along thecoast, and down in Booth Bay, »vere awaiting their opportunity ; but they never came within view. They doubtless saw our sentry, and, growing cold witli watching, they sneaked homeward. A party went to Bootli Bay next morning, and disco \ -^red there numerous fresh tracks. I ; , 227 ; men ; whole stcnce ; ;s could est and lir "vvas •eatnros Don tlic 11 Avra])t irongi'd 2re men lie coni- nity are d selfish ?lessness 11 e niglit, of Fitz- ny time e were (inid us ; ast, and tnnilv ; ess saw Of, they ay next aeks. CHAP. XXIII. Petersen's adventures among the Esquimaux. We took the earliest opportunity to get from I\Ir. Petersen and Godfrey a full account of the journey which had resulted ao disastrously to all our hopes. It will be remembered l)y the reader, that they left us on the morning of the 3rd of November ; and were, tlierefore, absent foiu* days. They reached Netlik in about nine hours from the time of starting ; and were there comfortably quartered, one in each of the two huts. Everything went "merry as the raai riage-bell " during the day following ; and the traveller?, were well fed and well treated. The very best food was given to them, the choicest cuts of young bear, the most juicy lobes of liver, and tlie tenderest puppy chops. The hiuiters all went away early in the morning, as Kalutimah «iid, to hunt, in order that they miglit have a better stock of food to leave with their families, as well as to take on the journey to the brig. This excuse for delay seemed reasonal^le enough. Very few of them, however, came back at the close of the day ; and of those who did return, Kalutuuah was not one. Q 2 '! i i! 223 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. T? ^'he next day passed, and still li<^ did not show him- self. Petersen grew m:easy. The moon was one day past its full, and there wai< no time to lose. Everythijig- else which happened was calculated to inspire him with confidence. Many hunters came in, mostly strangers to the settlement ; and all was hustle and activity. Sledges were coining and going continually ; dogs wore howling, snarling, and fighting ; some of the women were running to and fro, hetween their huts and their stone houses, or rather their stone meat-graves; others were actively sewinii; boots and mittens. Petersen flattered himself that he was to have a cai-avan in earnest, and that the whole tribe was to accompany him. Kalutunah did not return until toward the evening of the Oth. lie was accompanied by several sledges ; and among the drivers was a man named "Si])-su." This fellow had been at our hut. He Avas the largest and best built man of the tribe that we had seen ; but his face wore a fierce expression, foreign to the countenances of his companions. While they always appeared to be in a good- humour, ever laughing and gay, he was seldom seen even to smile ; and on all occasions he maintained the most dignified reserve. A few stiff hairs growing on his lip and chin, coupled with an unusually heavy pair of eye- brows, heightened the savage effect of his face. Sip-su was a genuine barbarian. He made it his l)oast that he had killed two men, members of his o^vn trilie. They were unsuccessfid hunters ; and, l)eing a burden upon his people, he took it upon himself to rid the settlement of the nuisancj. He Avaylaid them among the hununocks, and mcrciles.sly harpooned them. him- e day ,'tliiiig 1 with rers to wling-, inning ses, or ctively limsc'lf Kit tlie ning of 1 This nd host Hi wore of his a good- ill even |e most his lip :f eye- Sip- su s ; ant men hcessful [le took usance. Icilesj-ly SUSnCIONS OF TREACHEIIY. 229 There were now collected together about a dozen sledges, and the huts W(n'e crowded with people. Petersen's patience was, by this time, well nigh ex- hausted ; but he knew that the Esquimaux usually do their work in their own way. lie had made up his mind that they intended to go in tlie morning; but as the moon was very bright he thought that he might venture an attempt to hasten the departure by a few hours; l)ut, to his surprise, his rerpiest was answered with a surly statement that they did not wish to go with him at all, and that they had never had any intention to go. At this announcement the people in the liut laughed heartily. This was too much for human patience ; and Petersen demanded, with something of indignation in his tone, to know what they meant by thus cheating liim with false promises ; but they deigned no other reply, than that they could not pass Cape xYlexander, — as they called it, " the blowing place." All these proceedings, so different from anything that he had before seen, were calculated to excite suspicion that they foreboded mischief; but Petersen was not a man to be fi-ightened at shadows. He went at once over to the other hut, and telling Godfrey what had happened, cautioned him to be on his guard. He then returned, resolved to put on a bold front and to make a strong effort. As he came into the hut its inmates set up a fiendish laugh. This excited less his fear than his anger. He told them that they were a set of lying knaves; and that, if they did not keep their promises, his people would come with their guns and kill them all, and Q 3 *'1 -i: iP AN ARCTIC r>OAT JOURNEY. wcllings. His threats •were, however, thrown away, for they only hiughed tlic more. Seeing all his schemes thus imperilled, he demanded tliat they should sell him a team of dogs, since they had more than they wanted, — he would p;iy them well. No direct answer was made to this demand ; but ISip-su put to Kalutunah a question, which was, in eil'ect, '' Don't you think we can get his things in a cheaper way ? " Petersen no longer doubted as to their evil intentions toward him, more especially as they all im])ortuned him to lie down and sleep, lie knew, however, that they were of oj)inion that he carried, somewhere about his person, a pistol ; and ho felt confident that he could use this opinion as a talisman to keep him from harm, at least for a time. They thought, indeed, that each one of the white men carried one of these instruments ; and having seen some of their marvellous effects on former occasions, they had settled doAvn into the belief that they were magical wands, with which the " Kablanet " thrust danger aside. This idea we had always endeavoured to strengthen ; and, although Petersen had no pistt)! about him at this time, y^.t, as the Esquimaux did not know the fact, he might rely upon their fears. He had left his rifle out^ide ; for, if brought into the hut the moisture of the warm air would be condensed by the cold iron, and the powder being thereby dampened, the weapon would not be serviceable. In order to keep the natives from handling it, he had told them that the instant they touched it they would be killed ; and thus far his warning had been respected. cox?: PIRACY DISCOVER KD. 231 vevcr, anded •y had I well. Sip-su ollect, licaper 'ntions ud him y were icrson, se this it least " of the having lasions, y were thrust liired to about know ito the sed by ipened, :o keep lat the id thus How lonp: ho would ho able to hold t1u'S(> iinatrltiarv terrors over them he did not know ; but he was deter- mined to push the matter just far enough to fmd out, if possible, what was the nature of the conspiracy wliich he had reason to believe was directed, not only against Godfrey and himself, but also against their conn-ades at Booth I'jav. He accordingly seated himself carelessly upon the breck. His whole demeanovu* thus far had been such, that none of his suspicions were revealed ; and he felt that they looked upon him as a cat looks ui)on a wounded mouse, with only the difFcren:e that he nuist be disarmed. This task was imdertaken by 8ip-su. Satisfied that ihis was their object in trying to get him to lie down, he threw himself upon the breck and feigned asleep. This procediu'e required presence of mind ; but it did not seem to him to augment greatly his risks, since he knew that they would hardly venture to attack him until they hc'id exhausted all their arts in endeavouring to get the pistol which they supposed him to carry. The Esquimaux, like many other people, find it dif- ficult to keep their tongues tied, or to practice prudence ; and scarcely had Petersen shown the first synq)tom of being asleep before all their voices broke loose at once, and in an instant the story was told. Men and women, boys and girls, were discussing it. Petersen and God- frey were to be killed on the spot, and the hut at Tessui- sak (Booth Bay) Avas to be surprised before Mr. Sonntag and John could return from Akbat. In both cases Sip-su was to lead the assault, and Kalutunah was to act as his second in command. q4 ji^.i'i > M IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) r/i 1.0 1.1 laiM |2.5 •^ Uii 12.2 ^ |i£ 12.0 I' i 1 ^ 1 'M 'A ^ 6" ^- V] vQ .% (? ^;. ^ > / -(S^ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WfST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^1* 232 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. Sip-su was just hoginning to put into execution the first part of the phin of ojierations, by instituting a searcli for Pet(Tsen's pistol, Avhen Godfrey came to the window and liallooed to hiscliief, to know if he was alive. lie was siitisfied, from what he had seen and heard in the other hut, that foul play was intended. Petersen awoke from his sham sleep, and, having ex- changed words with Godfrey, made some excuse and went out. He found a crowd of men, women, and boys around his rifle. It was fortunate that he had impressed upon them the idea that it was dangerous to touch it. Seeing them assemljled about the gun, he called to them to know why they were not afraid to go so near ; and they all withdrew. Having secured his rifle, he told them that he intended to go in hunt of bears (Nannook) ; and drawing from his pocket a handful of Ixdls, he remarked, as he dropped them one by one into his other hand, that each of them was sufficient to kill a bear, or a man, or any other animal. They would have persuaded him to stay ; but he had ali-eady had enough of their treachery, and he resolved to walk to Booth Bay. This, although a dangerous experiment, was clearly more sjife than to remain. Conscious that their guilty intentions were rightly interpreted, the Es(piimaux clustered around him, de- claring, with suspicious eagerness, that they " would not hurt him," that " nobody meant him any harm." It Avas-' late when, with Godfrey, he started toward our pai'ty. The night was clear and calm, but the cold was terribly intense. At our hut the temperature was FLIGHT AND PURSUIT. 233 :ion the uting a e to the ras alive, iieard in iviiig ex- cuse and and boys nipvessed toucli it. 'd to tlieni lear ; and e intended wing from le dropped ;h of them any other stay ; but ^Ti and hi although a ifcj than to ore rightly id him, de- " would not ivni. •ted toward )ut the eold L-rature was forty-two degrees below zero. The distance to be travelled by them would have been, by the mt)st direct line, forty miles ; but more nearly fifty by the crooked path which they must follow. Even the three days of feasting at the Es(juimaux settlement had not restored the physical strength of which they had been deprived by their course of life at the hut ; .'uid, rednced as they were in flesh, it seemed to them scarcely pr()])able that they could make the exertion necessiuy to enable them to rej(un us. The Esquimaux sullenly watched them from the shore as they moved off; and when they had gone about two miles, the former hitched their teams, and, leaving the settlement, were soon in full pursuit. The wild, savage cries of the men, and the sharp snarl of the dogs, sounded upon the ears of oiu* poor conn-ades like a death-knell. In their previous anxieties, they had not looked forward to this new danger. The ice-jilain was everywhere smooth ; there was not in sight, for their encom'agement, a single hummock behind which they might hope to shelter themselves. On came the noisy pack, — half a hundred wolfish dogs. Against such an onset, what coidd be don(; by two weak men, armed with a single rifle ? The dogs and the harpoons of their drivers nuist soon finish the murderous work. Petersen was, however, resolved that Sip-su or Kalutunah should ir.xy the penalty of his treachery, if at any moment within range of the rifle. At this stage of desperate expectjition, the sledges, at the distance of about half a mile from the l"iigitives, suddenly turned to the right, and were driven seaward. I 1 i' 234 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUIINEY. It was now evident that the Esqunnaux were not bohl enough to meet tlie cliaiiceH of an encounter, in which one of them nnist become a victim of the (h'eaded rifle ; and, consequently, that in an open field thei'c was no reii-on to fear their close assiudt ; but it might l)e their inti iition to lie in wait among the hummocks or behind a berg, and thus to gain the advantage of an ambush. The rough ice was, therefore, avoided as much as possible by the travellers, although by this course their journey was seriously prolonged. Still, it was not always ])racticable to keep aw.ay from the hummocks ; and Petersen's sufferings were augmented by the ex- posure of his hand, which he was obliged frecpieiitly to bare, in order to be prepared to use his riile at any moment of need. Whatever the purpose of the siivages, lioAvever, they did not show themselves. Upon reaching Cape Parry, both Petersen and God- frey were so far exhausted th.at they could scarcely walk ; and there remained nearly one half of their journey to be accomplished. At times they felt drowsy, and almost lost consciousness ; but to halt would in all prol)abiIity be fatal to them. Sustaining each other, they slowly and steadily continued down the coast. The morning twilight at length appeared in the south- east ; and after weary, painful hours, the sun's rays, shooting from beneath the horizon, showed them that noon had arrived ; yet tliere still lay miles between them and the hut. Benumbed by cold, exhausted by fatigue and hunger, and parched by thirst, they might have yielded to despair ; but their fiices were toward the south ; the warm hues of the sky re-inspired them PEnSEVERANCE. 235 ?re not liter, in [livaded oro was lijrlit be locks or L' of an IS much . course was not mocks ? tlic ox- t'litly to at any ravages, with tlioiiglits of iioiiic, and these brought hope and courage to tlieir hearts. After an uninterrupted Avalk of twenty-four liours, their lieroic energy triumphed. I liave ahvady told the reader of their sad condition when they came upon us in tlie niglit. id God- o(l ; . greatly 2 o'clock, iiooiilig^it ior the amicable slicd, and II team of a relic of i-y slicatli iVoiu the the same kill of the loiigh his Avas used a i)ocket- Avith four bledgos, six Esquimaux, of wliom three wore residents of Akbat. They were all on their way to Netlik. One of tlieni was our old friend of sentimental memory, the widow, who earned, as usmd, a bundle of frozen birds under her arm. She was as voluble as ever, had much to tell, and many (piestions to ask. We were compelled to cry with her only once. All of the visitors were at first shy ; which proved that if they had not shared the late conspiracy, it was, at least, known to them. Finding themselves, however, treated in the accustomed manner, they were soon at their ease. Each of them had brought something for barter ; and in a short time there was ])iled in one corner of our hut such a supply of food and luel as we had not seen for many a long day. The aggri'gate was about one hundred pounds, of which three fourths were flesh. We had walrus, bear, seal, and birds ; and with economy this store would be sufficient for us during five or six days. But one meal was necessarily devoted to our guests, who consumed as much as would have sei'ved ourselves during one third of that time. We witnessed most reluctantly such excess of indulgence at our ex- pense ; but it would have been no less impolitic than uncivil to check it. At the end of three hours the party set off northward, apparently well pleased with the share which they had received of our riches ; but they would not sell any dogs. November 12th. — Esquimaux are coming from eveiy quarter, and are flying about in every direction. We have a new arrival from Northumberland Island, — a man whom we have not before seen. He appeared at 242 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. !J about noon, nnd juMcd to our stores a walrus flipper, about lilly littl(! auks, and .sonic ])i('('i's of blubber, lii return, he demanded a stall' Ibr a liarpoon, a knile, and three needles. lie is the first of these peojile who has not stipulated for payment upon delivery of his goods. Jiegard to our health and strength induced us to profit by this sudden accession to our stock of provisions ; juid we ate three substantial meals : a degree of luxury which we had not enjoyed since leaving Ivensselaer Harbour. Our new friend, named Kingiktok (the Rock), is a Hober, civil fellow, who says very little except when questioned. We fancied him immediately, and sought his friendly confidence by the gift of a fL'W needles for his wife, a j)ocket-knife for his son, and a whipstock i()r himself. As if to express his gratitude he said that he was our friend. This lie repeated several times with so peculiar an emj)hasis, that we began to doubt whether his ol)ject was to cover a treacherous purpose, or to intimate that he desired to distinguish himself from others who were hostile to us, and whose inimical designs he could disclose. Petersen, who had not jireviously given much attention to him, now endeavoured to elicit from him whatever information he was disposed to impart ; and thus we obtained the statement that himseli' and his brother Amalatok (with whom the reader has already been made acquainted on page 104), were the only per- sons in the whole tribe who were not hostile to us. No circumstance of this communication surprised us as much as that an Esquimaux should be the bearer of it. To enable the reader to see more of the workings of tlie imcivilised people with whom we were in contact, THE WIT^lr-^^FE. 243 flipper, LT. In it'o, and ,ho liiis [roods. to profit ns ; and hixiiry Linsscluer ck), is i^ pt \vlu*n id Houglit 'odk'H for ■>stock for d that he es with so Ihethcr his intimate ■hers who he could IvL'u much from him |part; and [■ and his .s already only per- us. No sed us as larer of it. [orkings of .n contact, I will give iM-ii'lly a part of v;hat we loarnfMl from Kintriktok. The wife of his brother Am^latok is hcliovod hy tlie trihe to he a wifch, a reputation which is not belied by her looks. What has caused this stiirma upon her, Kinjrikt(»k refused to tell ; but he said that she had been condemned to death, and that Sip-su had declared him- self her executioner. The style of execution in voprue is not more creditable to the tribe than it is comfortable for the victim. The executioner awaits an opportunity, creeps behind a lump of ice, and ])lants his harpoon in the back of the con- demned, when the latter is least expectin«; it. The prospect of such a fate for Mrs. Amalatok, add.d to the reproach cast upon her, had naturally arc ised the watch- fulness and vindictiveness of her lord and his brother, who were not altogether without courage. Their national habits had trained them to the vigilance and readiness needful to such an exigence. Feuds are ap- parently, in many cases, not only irreconcilable between the original parties, but hereditary. Forgiveness of in- juries is certainly not a virtue which stands very high in their estimation ; and thus it happens that the lying in wait for an adversary is a long established practice, upon which the settlement of private quarrels must often de- pend. Unfortunately for Amalatok and his brother, and for the witch-wife, who watches for herself as closely as she is watched, Sip-su carries with him the voices of the greater number of his trib •. ; and, conse- quently, the broth-jis never venture to sleep in the vil- lages ; though visits are interchanged with the inhabitants, who do not hesitate to call at the hut of Amalatok on R 2 > 1 244 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. 1 1| tlicir way to the outer liimting-^i^ounds. On all such occasions tlic parties arc very civil to each other, and the visitors are hospitably feasted. An Esquimaux seems to have a reprngnance to killing even an enemy, unless he can do it by stealth. I have •»flen been amazed that these men should have the courage to attack, with their slender harpoons, the huge and fierce polar bear ; r.nd yet that, according to their standard, Amalatok and Sip-su, who feared to meet each other in open figlit, but sought every day to take a mean advantage of each other, were fir from being cowards. The feud with Sip-su unlocked the speech of Kingik- tok, who told us that, from the beginning, the former had done all that he could to persuade the tribe that the white m(>n were unable to catch the bear, the walrus, and the seal ; and that, if left to their fate, they must die ; in which case the tribe would get all their wood and iron. This view of the case was for a time opposed by Kalutunah, who insisted that the white men could kill anything with their auleit (guns) or hoom^ as they more commonly call our weapons, in imitation of the Bound made by their discharge. The public judgment, however, sided with Sip-su ; and, accordingly, the Esiuiimaux waited and waited, and were surprised upon visiting our hut, to find us alive. They grew impatient ; but their jealousies interfered in our behalf. Wlien Kalutunah returned froiji us with a new harpoon, a whipstock and a knife, and some needles for his wife, domestic rivalry stimulated the visits of others of the village. Provisions came to us, and prizes were carried off. Kalutunah himself was determined not to be out- done, as he plumed himself not only upon his reputation THE RIVALS. 245 ill such tier, and killing I have lave the the huge to their neet each Le a mean towards, f Kingik- lie former )e that the he walrus, they must heir wood ne opposed men could m, as they Ition of the judgment, ingly, the prised upon impatient ; ,lf. When harpoon, a .r his wife, Ihers of the ere carried It to be out- reputation as a hunter, hut also upon hh equipment, wh'"h, in fact, was tlie l^est we liad seen. Thus tliis rivalry fed us. Sip-su conthuicd to abstain from tliis competition, until his wife, envious of lier neighbours, loft liim no alternative but domestic rupture ; to avoid whieli he condescended to make a visit to us. lie brought, how- ever, only a trifling supply, for which he demanded a large price ; and as we could make no distinctions with- out disturbing our standards of trade, he carried home with him only a single needle and a very sntall piece of wood. lie had yielded his principle and his dignity, and had gained no thanks from his wife. It is not to be supposed that his previous inclinations respecting us were rendered more amiable. When Petersen fell into the hands of the Esquimaux, Kalutunah went to inform his rival, Sip-su, who lived near Cape Robertson, at Karsooit, Avhich was fitly miles away. It was this journey which occasioned the delay already mentioned. In the meantime, the news was spread by other hunters, and there was a general assem- blage of the people. A plan was arranged substantially, as recorded in a previous cliapter ; but Sip-su was timid in the presence of the magical " auleit ; " and he deferred the execution of his design, until it was frustrated by the awakened suspicions of our comrades. Incensed at their escape, the disappointed siivage led the pursuit, with the hope of setting the dogs upon them ; l)ut again his courage failed at the critical moment. With every allowance due to the inventions and exaggerations of an enemy, we found this narrative too nearly in accordance with the results of Petersen's E 3 246 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUENEY. observations to admit of our doubting its substantial truth. From Kalutunali we liad received numerous benefits and manifestations of friendliness ; and it is on that account gratifying to know tliat wlien he concurred with others for our destruction, he yielded only to what was to him extraordinary temptation. He was young in authority ; tlie majoi-ity of his people were against him ; his rival had the popular side ; and it might even have seemed a duty to secure to the tribe, at what he was accustomed to regard as a trifling price, the vast treasure of wood, iron, and needles possessed by strangers of another race, between whom and himself there was no formally recognised tie but that of interest. The time, we hojie, is not very remote, when, through the fraternal aid of Christian men, he and his benighted kindred shall learn not only to encourage the feeble virtues which they now possess, but also to resist suc- cessfully the promptings of those savage passions of which we had so perilous a demonstration. Perhaps in the di2:)loniacy and the wars of civilised people, there may be found motives for looking charitably upon the •wrong-doings of the ignorant and undisciplined Esqui- maux. 247 DStantial benefits on that 'red with ivhat was y^oung in inst him ; ;ven have at he was it treasure •angers of re was no n, through benighted the feeble resist snc- assions of crhaps in pie, there upon the Ined Esqui- CHAP. XXV. GOOD CHEER. KiNGiKTOK left US early the following morning ; and in the evening eleven other members of the tribe came up from Akbat, on their way to Netlik. This was the most lively as well as the largest party that had yet visited us. Kalutunah was one of the number, and was as good- natured and voluble as usual. He brought to us the quarter of a young bear, and received in payment one of Petersen's hoop-iron knives ; but the shrewd IcUow had learned to distinguish iron from steel ; and he did not seem to prize his present very highly, lie had before seen one of this kind of knives; and, having used it in trying to chip off some kernels from a piece of fi-ozen liver, he had bent the instrument double. He at once suspected the quality of our gift. He tried to cut with it, but the result was not satisfactory. He then deliberately bent it in the form of a letter U ; and, throwing it on the ground, he pronounced it, with a characteristic grunt of indignation, " no good." He was contented when we gave him a piece of wood with which to patch his sledge. B 4 m I' 248 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUBNET. The bear's leg which we thus added to our stores, was Kahitunah's share of a liuiit from which the people of Akbat had returned the day before. Kalutunah was a guest on tlie occasion, and, as such, was entitled, by Esquimaux rule, to the choice of pieces when the animal was caught. Our visitors were four men, three Avomen, and four children. Two of the women were the two Avidowswho have previously figured in this narrative. Each of them was accompanied by a child, — one of whom was about four, and the other about three years old. The latter belonged to the sentimental widow ; and its name being interpreted, signifies " a mother's only child." The mother's fondness for this stay of her old age was quite touching ; but it took much from the poetry of the scene when we saw her strip off its furs and turn it loose to root among our bedding, with the accumulated blubber and soot of three years sticking to its skin. One of the hunters had Avith him his wife and Iavo children. He was " moving ; " and he carried all of his domestic utensils, together Avith his entire family, upon his sledge. The utensils Avere not A'ery compli- cated. He Avas going to Netlik, Avhere he intended tem- porarily to quarter in Kalutunah's hut, if he should find room there ; and, if not, in a snoAV-house. One of hia children Avas a girl three or four years of age, the other a boy of about seven. He informed us that one had died not long before, of a disease Avhich, from his description, I judged to be pneumonia, — a very common and very -atal complaint among the Esquimaux in the spring and autumn. Oui' hut Avas very much croAvded, there being nine- HIGH TEMrERATURE. 249 tcon persons Avitnin it ; Imt we mado it a point never to turn strjinprers away from our door. Kaliitunali said, on his arrival, tliat liis party could build a snow-hut and sleep in it; but this we would not permit them to do. Two Es({uiniaux lamps were burnin<^ cheerily all the evening ; two Escpiimaux pots hung over them, sus j)ended each from a rafter, and sent up Avreaths of warm steam ; and our own lamp was for two hours in full blast in the firej)lace. These together made much heat ; and, added to this, we had the warmth given off by our nineteen bodies. The result was to elevate the temperature from 29° to G0°. The hut was warmer than it had ever been before ; but it was, altogether, less pleasant than when the tempei'aturc was below the freezing-point. When the thermometer stood at 28°, we were most comfortable. We had grown so used to low temper.'itures that 00° w^'is much too warm for us; but tliis was in itself a comparatively trifling discomfort. The air had become very imjmre. We had no ventila- tion except througli our small chimney, wliicli, although Buificient to purify the atmosphere on ordinary oc- casions, was now quite inade(|uate for that purpose. To make matters worse, there was a general thaw. The frost overhead melted, and after lianging in long rows of soot-stained beads on the under sides of the rafters, fell drop by drop into our faces and upon our clothing. A clammy sweat covered the walls, and here and there trickled to the ground in spasmodic stream- lets. We ought to have called the place Fort Misery, — for it was a miserable place at the best of times. At eight o'clock in the evening the interior of our hut presented an unusually cheerful scene. We were m 250 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. nt il 'I in tlie midst of a plentiful feast ; tliis time not at our expense, — at least, not at the expense of our provision stores. Kalutunah liad ])ronglit in a luige clumk of walrus-meat — a ilip])er weighing in the neighbourhood of fifty pounds. It Avas frozen h.ard, and was covered with snow. He threw it on the floor in the middle of the hut, and around it were soon grouped the inmates. On the edge of the brecks two women had installed themselves, — one on each side of the door. These were watching their lamps and kettle. . By the side of each lay a cake of frozen snow ; from which, from time to time, for the last hour, she had been breaking off pieces, and depositing them in her kettle, — melting them into water for her people to drink. Having satis- fied their thirst, she then attempted to heat the portion which remained. This she could not boil by the feeble flame of her lamp, but she had its temperature in a little while elevated to about 190°, which would answer to cook with. The hunters splintered off with our hatchet some pieces of meat, and passed them to the women, through whose management they were soon stewing finely, and smelling lusciously. Kalutunah was very fond of soup ; and the sentimental widow was doing her best to gi'atify his taste. The woman who attended to the other pot was in like manner serving her lord, who sat near her. If the reader will follow me into the hut he will see there a succession of tableaux which may be novel to him. The two above-mentioned hunters sit facing each other, and facing the lump of frozen beef, ivhich lies upon the ground. Kalutunah has the sentimental widow at his left, and the other hunter has liis wife at A FEAST. 251 luH right. Godfrey kneels in front of the fire[)lace, at- tending to our lamps, which bum there. He is cooking some coffee, and frying some steaks of bear-ham. Tlu^ hum of the kettle and the crackle of the Itlubber in the pan are cheerful sounds. Petersen sits in his corner by the stove. He looks very demure ; and, although lie talks nearly all the time, it is easy to see that lie is doing it against his will, and that he would much prefer to be quiet. The Esquimaux are continually asking questions, and he has to answer for all of us ; and since he has found that the Es((uimaux will not sell us any dogs, nor go to the ship, nor hire their teams to us ibr that purpose, he is not inclined to be communicative with them. The children are orawling about over the brecks ; the rest of us are mixed up indiscriminately, white men and red men ; some sitting on the edge of the breck ; some lying at full length upon it ; all leisurely eating ; — leisin-ely, I sjiy, for the meat is so icy that it is chipped off with dilKculty, and we obtain it only in little crisp pieces which make the teeth fairly ache with cold. The writer of this sits behind Kalu- tunah, from whom he receives alternate mouthl'uls. An hour later and the soup has been drunk ; the coffee has passed around ; the stew and the fry have dis- appeared ; but the feast is far from ended. Scarcely an impression has yet been made upon the walrus flipi^er ; but the warmth of the hut has partially thawed it, and the knives penetrate it more readily, and strips can be cut off. These now fly about in all directions. Everybody has one. The strip may be three inches, or it may be a foot in length; its wddth two inches, and its thickness one inch. The feeder takes one end of it in I m ■■fr k 2'>2 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. his mouth, and seizing between liia teetli a convenient portion, he cuts it off close to liis lips, and then swallows it as quickly as possible, and repeats the process. Having taken two or three bites of meat, he then takes one of blubber. The red men have taught the white men how to flourish the knife, and what is the proper motion to insure safety to the lips. The walrus-meat is very juicy, and is also very dark. The faces and hands of all of us are covered with ])lood; and but for the bearda on the faces of some of us, it woidd ])e difficult to dis- tinguish the civilised men from the savages. The children have each a strip of beef and blubber, and are disposing of these etpially with the best of us. Tlie seven-year-old stands with his back against the post, straddling across one corner of the flipper, raj)idly shortening a slice which his father has given him. His body is naked to the waist, as indeed are the bodies of all our guests. His face and his hands are red with the thick fluid which he squeezes from the spongy meat, and which streams down his arms, and drops from his chin upon his distended abdomen, over the hemispherical surface of which it courses, leaving crimson stains behind. Still an hour later and there is nothing left upon the floor but a well-picked bone ; and we have wiped our hands with the bird-skins which the widow has torn from the lumme of which she has made her supper. As usual, she had her feast alone ; and with little assist- ance she has consumed six birds, each as large as a young pullet. We have now established the most friendly relations. Wlien does not good cheer make good spirits ? Mr. LEARNING TO COUNT. 253 Sonntag sits behind mo ; and, true to liis profession, is ({Ucstioning one of the lumters about tlieir astronomy. Godfrey is amusing the women and cldldren with a ut'gro Kong, keejung time with an imaginary banjo. I am seated beside Kahitunah, and we are teaching each other scraps of our widely different hmguages. Bonsall is at my Hide, looking on, and helping. I try to get tlie siivage to arti(juhite yes and no, and to teacli liim oi what Es(jui- maux words they are equivak'nts. He pronounces " ees" and " noe," after several efforts, and says, inquiringly, "tyma?" (right?) I nod my head and say " tyma," to encourage him ; whereupcju he laughs heartily at my bad j)ronunciation of his word. We make an effort to count. lie gets "w^^e" for ONE, and an inmiensely hard " ^oo" for two; but he cannot manage the th^ of three. In return he teach(;s me to count in his kmguage. I cannot quite pronounce as he does ; but he pats mt? on the back in a very encouraging manner, as much as to say " well done," and repeats " tyma" to me over and over again. We go on through the series with much laughing and many tymas ; with thumps on my back from him, and from me reproachful punches in his ribs, and encouraging twitches of his left ear ; until, at length, we have reached ten. His people do not count fui-ther, and I'etersen tells me that any number beyond ten, whether much or little, is called by a general name. Sonntag's investigations in astronomy show some cui-ious results. He and Petersen have been asking questions about the sun, moon, and stars. It appears that these heavenly bodies are spirits of departed Esqui- maux, or of some of the lower animals. The sun and ;■ ll 'i:)4 AN AIUTK" \\0\T .lorUNKV. moon arc hrothcr jiiul .sistor. Tin' ntoiy vi' t »• orii»iiii is lliis : — In a (listMiil «'onntrv tlicro once livt-il an nninanicd Woman nlio liad scviTal lirolliciM. lirinij,' onco al a lost i\ (' L^■»llH'I"inu:, slic (rl( liri'scir su«l«li'nlv and violently HtM/od l»v llio slionldoi's, This slio woll know wa^ a do- olaraliiMi of love, I'oi" sncli is llic «Mistoin dl' licr pcoiilc; but who the man was slic conld not (hscovor, sinco (ho luit was (pulo dark. 'I'Ium'o heinu' to licr knowK'tl^Ljc no m«>ii in tlto viUaLTt', Ix'sido \\vr luolhors, she at once sus- |)0(M('d tliat it must ho one of tlu'S(>. Slio hrniv«' from liiin. anti, rnnninp: away, smeared her haml with soot, and oik Tjion returning to tlu» lint sho was seized npiin, and this time slio Mackencd «»ne si(h> ol' tlie Oico oi" ]\or unknoAvn lover. A iinlited ta]»er heini; hj'outrht soon allerwank lior susjiieions were (M>nfirme(k Slie then out olV lu'r hreasls, and, ihrowinir tlieni at liim, ex- olainuul "iftliou lioldest riulitly vM that." Seizinpftlio taj)er slio now ran on\ ol'tlie hut, and hounded over tlio rocks with tlio tU'(>tnoss ol^ a deer. Her brotlier liglited n taper and ])ursuod lior, but his liglit soon wont out, yet ho still continued tho ohas(\ and, without having overtaken her, they came to the end of tlu^ earth. De- termined not to bo caught, the girl then sprang out into the heavens. Her brother Ibllowed her ; but he stumbled while in tho act of s}n-inging, and, before he could re- cover himselt', the object of his pursuit was far away fi'om him. Still bent upon gaining the prize, he con- tinued the race; and, from that time until this, the sun has been going around and aroimd, and the moon around and aroimd after her trying still to catch her. The bright light of the sun is caused by the taper which the ASTnoNOMICAL FA IlLFS. r.a «• ( HI'' 111 Ttinidcn onrrirH; wliilc iIm' tikmiii, ImviriM' Irmf Iiis l.'iju'r, is cold, siikI cdiild not In- srcii l»iit for liis Mislrr's liL'lit. < )m' Hide of liis liicr, hcin;; Hirirjirrd with soot, \h fliiic- lurc Id.'ick, wliilr tin- (illirr side Ik clr.-m ; niid In- tiirriM <>(H' Hide or tlic otiiri' to\v;ii(lM tlic cjii'tli jn suits Imh |i|r;isiir('. 'rii.'it clnstrr of st.'iiN jji " (Trsji M;ijor," wliidi \vr d('si;j;ji;it(' ax " the di|t|MT," JlK-y <'.'dl a licfd of " ttio/:- too/:'' (rciiidrcr). 'I'lu' Htars of" Orion'H ln-lt," srrn lar away in tlic s>ntli, arc Hcai-lmntcrs vvlio liavc lost llicir way. 'I'lic " IMciadcs" arc a j>ay the Hpirits at play with one another. Ifain is the over- llowin;j; of the hcaveni) lakes on the ever-Ln-een hanks of which live the happy spirits who liavc taken tip their abode in the skies, wdiere snnshiiK! and snniiner an- eternal. These liapj)y sj)irits have abundance to eat without the trouble of catching it. The Ks(piiinaux are cdosi; (d)S(_'rvorH of tho Tnovoments of thi3 stars. We went out toward niidni^rlit to look after tlic dogs, and I'etersen asked Kalutunah when lii.s party intended to go. He ])oint(;d to a star wliicli stood almost directly over Saunders Island, in the south ; and, carrying his ihiger around to the west, lu; j)f)inted to another star, «iying, " when that star gets where that one is we will start." Our guests being tired, we fitted up for them such accommodations as were within our power, and they were soon asleep. With so many to provide for we were obliged to remit somewhat of our fastidiousness ; yet we would not allow them to touch the inside of our \ I li.^ i 'I 250 AN AIICTIC nOAT JOUHNKV. Id.'mkclH; nor roultl wo lie «lown willi lljoin ; niul wo llirr«'H>r(' ])Mssr(l llic iii^lit awake, s(»la«M'«l l)y an cxtni (Mi|) oreollrr, and a IVchIi su|»i»ly fntiii IVuisall's tciliacco- liox. lidrt'slinl l»y our nrciit meal, and i'ncoura^M-d \)y i\\o niglif ol' inafcrials npon \\w sliclf Hir ji dozen more, wc cxjiiuricnccd new lil'c and resolution. f 257 CHAP. xxvr. KLMlTKI'll PLANS. I TAKK up tlic; narrative again on tlic lOtli of Novombor. Two cvontlcHs (lays have j)as.s(Ml nincc tlic Es<[uimaux Icfl 118. We have in the interval grown much .stronger. Our daily ration per man hiiH been about two pounds. This haw not been sufTicient to satisfy our appetites, which have craved vegetable food ; but it is ample to sustain us in health, and to slowly recuperate our lost energies. The absence of all vegetable food is a source of suffer- ing to us which can hardly b(^ appreciated by those who have not had a somewhat similar experience. Our stomachs, hitherto used to a more bulky diet, do not readily become accustomed to the new order of things ; so that, while eating enough for health and strength, we are always hungiy. The natives live upon an exclusively animal diet ; but they consume it in larger quantities than could b(i afforded by us. Their daily allowance of food I should estimate' at from twelve to fifteen pounds; about one- third of it being fat, — the blubber mainly of the walrus, the seal, and the narwhal. In times of plenty, they eat more than that quantity ; in times of scarcity, less. S I ! I i( 258 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUKNEY. Being exceedingly improvident", and having rarely stores reserved snfficient to supply them dni-ing two weeks, they are often in want. At such times, however, it must be conceded that they exhibit a conmiendable spirit of cheerfulness and jihilosophical resignation ; and when they ai'c again successful in the hunt, they make up for lost time by a series of stupifying feasts. I have seen an Esquimaux, upon returning from a long and ex- posed hunt, or when about to commence a difficult jour- ney, eat at a single meal, prolonged through several hours, fully ten pounds of walrus-flesh and blubber. It is in his generally large consumption of food that the Esquimaux hunter finds his shield against tlie cold. I do not believe that he could live upon a vegetable diet. Taste, with the pleasures which it brings, has very little to do with his meal ; and he takes food through his capacious jaws -with much the same passiveness as that of a locomotive when receiving coal from the shovel of a firciiian ; and the cases are jiarailel. In the latter, the carbonaceous coal is burned up in the furnace to make hea .:, to make steam to start the wheels. In the former, the carbonaceous blubber and flesh are burned up in the lungs to make heat, to make steam, to start the hunt. Feed the locomotive on willow-twigs, and on a frosty morning it will be very likely to cease its operations ; feed the Esquimaux hunter on wheat bread or maccaroni, and he will quickly freeze to death. The same laws govern the Esquimaux and the Avhite men ; and exposed as ,we were to temperatui'e so low, living chiefly in an atmosphere varying from zero to the freezing-point, and subjected during a part of the day to X temperature ranging from zero to sixty degrees below ANIMAL FOOD. 259 if, we found ouTselvos continually craving a strong animal diet, and especially fatty substances. The blubber of the walrus, the seal, and the narwhal was always gi-ateful to us ; and in its frozen condition it was far from unpleasant to the taste. I have frerpiently seen members of the party drink the contents of our oil-kettle with evident relish. One of our number was especially notorious for his depredations in this quarter ; and, as the manufac'iire of oil from blubber was attended with the consumnt'on of an amount of fuel whicli we could ill spare, we were compelled to pass a formal vote, guarding the oil-kettle hy excluding it from the cuisine. At the time of which I write we Avere all in good health, except Stephenson ; and his troubles were not immediately caused by our mode of life, although they were greatly aggravated thereby. I have explained in a, former chapter that his disease, which was a functional derangement of the heart, (pericardial effusion,) was originally the result of repeated attacks of scurvy, from which he suffered while on board the Advance. xVl- though the cause was entirely removed, the return of its impleasant consequences was from time to time threatened; sometimes with fearful results. The re- maining members of the party had all, like him, been more or less affected by the scurvy while on shipboard; but every trace of tlie disease had by this time dis- appeared from our systems, and we were in as good con- dition as men could well be who were living so irregu- larly ; subsisting upon a diet varying so much from week to week and from day to day in quantity and quality. In view of this fl\ct, I think I hazard nothing in say- s 2 il I I I'll 260 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUUNEY. ing, tliat probably no clininto in \\w world luis U-ss (en- dinicy to cU^vclop scurvy than that of the Anrtic regions, provided that tlie proper kind of food is used by tlie re- sidents in it. This food must be ehieily animal, largely fat, abundant in (piantity, and mainly free from salt. The Es([uiniaux are exempt from tlie (hsease, although thev disregard all of our ordinary liygienie laws; and I am sjitisfied that, with our present knowledge and expe- rii'uet*, seurvy need not be tlie formidable scourge whieli it was in former times, — if, indeed, it need l)e known at all on board of vessels wintering in the Arctic seas. Altogether the climate is one of remarkable healthful - ness; for, were it otherwise, living as we did in om* close hut, we nnist have been attacked by disease. Our ncAvly acquired physical energies fitted ut< iov again attempting something, either for the success t)f our southern schemi*, or for our deliverance. Petersen again ]iroposed to renew the attempt to go to the ship, pro- vided that we c(ndd obtain a team of dogs. His plan was, to start when the moon should have returned, and, avoiding Netlik, go directly to Northumberland Island, where there was reason to believe Kingiktok or Amala- tok Avould join him ; thence proceeding northward, witli all dispatch, he would reach the Advance, and return before the moon should have set. lie would need ont^ companion, and would go well armed ; and he thought that he could make the journey to and fro in twelve days. His proposition was favourably received, and BonsjilFs offer to accompany him was accepted. Thei*e were several reasons to make this satisfiictory ; the most prominent being the facts that he was, Petersen perhaps excepted, the most hardy man of the party ; and that, K.SQUIMAUX JiEARDtJ. 2G1 to as ^rcat a degree as any ineniljci' of it, lie possessed those jiecessjiry qualities for such an tiiiergeucy, — courage, caution, and energy. An old man wlioni we had not, before si-eii, arrived tile next day, from one of the settlements far uj) Whale Sound. He brought us a small addition to our store of piovisions; and he received from us some presents. ]l(» had ])een Inmting hears, and liad a long story to tell, which he did with the usual accompaniment of violent gesticulation, al)out his having followed the track ol" a. Nanooksoak (lai'ge bear) down into Booth Bay, wlierc he lost it on account of the darkness. He asked to l)0 allowed to remain until it grew lighter, Avhen Ik; would continue the pursuit. The request was of course grant(;d ; and, liaving given him a supper, which, as to quantity, is best described hy saying that it was an Esquimaux one, we put him to bed. This man was the only mem1)er of the tribe tliat 1 had seen who possessed what could proj)erly be callc^d a beard. He had upon his chin and upfu'r lip a respect- able growth of hairs, which were silvtnx'd with age. They probably did not show themselves until long ai>er the man had arrived at years of maturity ; for the faces of th(^ y<^^ing men, and indeed of the greater numbei- of the middle-aged who visited us, were us imiocent of beard as a woman's. Shunghu (for such was the name of our visitor) had scarcely fallen asleep, when there was anotlna- ari-ival — a man, a woman, and a child. The man called himself ''Tattarat" (Kittywake-gull) ; he came from fmnanak (Cape York), and was moving northward with liis family. s 3 '2(\-2 AN AECTIC liOAT JOURNEY. :' L t He tokl iiH tluit tlie peopk* of Alvbat, and tlic only ianiily besides his own then living at his settlement, wei'e preparing to do likewise. This -was in conse- quence of the failure of the southei-n hunting-grounds. The sea to the westward of Cape York was completely closed ; and the unusual severity of the season was likely to render a residence south of Netlik, during the winter, extremely hazardous. They liad not, lor many yejirs, knowm such a winter. It had set in a " half-moon " eni'lier than usual. This report confirmed our own conclusions, and our residence at Booth Bay was clearly the result of this freak of nature. Had the season re- mained ojoen two weeks longer, we should, in all proba- bility, have reached Upernavik ! The favourite hunting-grounds of the Esquimaux of this coast, are about Cape Alexander ; at Avhich phice, and inunediately soutli, south-west, and Avest of it, the sea is always more or less Irec from ice. When the distance from their permanent residences, such as Netlik, Alvbat, &c., to this water, becomes inconveniently great, in consequence of the gradual widening of the land-bell, they move up toward this cape, and camp in snow- houses, whicli they build at some eligible spot upon the land, or upon the ice, within a few hours' travel of the usual resorts of game. It does not often haj^pen that they are compelled to do this ; although, for the sake of the interchange of friendly gi'eetings, the inhabitants of the southern settlements generally move northward for a short portion of the winter season. They return be- fore the ice breaks up, and while they can still travel. This early moving up from Cape York looked un- promising ibr us, and the knowledge of the fact did rUKCKASE OF DOGS. 263 ason re- nmch to shake our faith in the practicability of our re- solution to go thither. Our visitors remained witli us through tlie n.^ht ; and, at eight o'clock next morning, at which tune there ■\vas a little increase of light, they went out in search of the bear whose track Shunghu had discovered the evening before. They returned, unsuccessful, after an absence of about two hoius. A light wind had covered the tracks witli drift. We now made a proposal for the purchase of dogs ; biit for a time Ave despaired of havmg l)etter fortune than on former occasions. At length, the exhibition of" an old harpoon and Bonsall's shining lumting-knife was eifective, and the hunters promptly offered, each, two dogs. Tattarat received the hai'poon, and Shmighu the knife, and both parties were well pleased with the bar- gain. Tattarat would have sold us another animal, but he had only four left, and had a heavily laden sledge to drag to Netlik. Slumghu also would have disposed of two more, but the remainder of the team belonged to Ins son, and he could not part with any of them without first consulting the boy. Our visitors left us at noon. The history of the next few days wiU have little in- terest for the reader, except as it points to our future plans and proceedings, and I therefore resort again to the more condensed diary form. November l^tJi. — A southerly gale kept us within doors thi;-> day. The wind was accompanied by light squalls of snow and heavy drift. The outside tempe- rature reached as high as twelve degrees lielow zero ; S 4 ■■« ■3 %: 264 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOURNEY. and a sensible offect was soon pi-oclucetl upon the at- mosphere of the hut. Petersen commenced the m.'muflictui'c ol a sledge tor his contemplated journey ; such of us as could, helping him. The dogs did not seem to l)e satisfied with their change of (juarters. They were howling piteously all day, and trying to hreak loose. We led them on walrus-hide. November "20th. — The sledge Avas nearly finished this evening. The runners were made of the thwarts of the Hope, and the cross-pieces of wood fi'om tlu? same soui'ce. There remains only to put soles on the run- ners, and to lash the whole together. This last is the work of an hour, and is not required immediately. The soles involve greater difficulty ; we have nothing suitable for them. Iloop-iron and a piece of moderately hard wood are all that can be made available. We are again getting short of provisions, and look anxiously for the Esquimaux. Novevilcr 21st. — Breakfasted on our last piece of wairus-beef Petersen brought from the traps a fox which served us for supper. This was a piece of un- looked-for goo J fortune, for we had given up all hope of getting anything from that source. Stephenson, who has been cheered and comforted by our tea, received to- day the last of it. November '22nd. — Light snow and a southerly wind. The thermometer stands outside of the hut at zero, and fc^CANlV FOOD. 1'05 the at- n sledge s could, th their oiisly all hem on shed this 'ts of the he same the rim- ,t is the ly. The suitable ely hard uid look piece of IS a fox of un- hope of on, who ived to- y wind, ivo, and inside of it at 40°. The temjierature has been gradually rising during the past three days. Toward evening it began to snow violently, and soon afterward a furious gale howled across the ice-ti«'Ids. Th«^ wind brought in an mi usually high flood-tide, which, together with th(! increased warmth, indicate the (.'xistence of a large body ol'open water not far away. AW' had for breakfast this day one bird, which was cut into four j)ieces. The half of one of thes(> would scarcely give a mouthful to each person, so we tossed up for the (piarters. The unlucky four contented them- selves witii their coffee. Another unexpected fox fur- nished us a supper. Novemher '23rd. — Bivakfasted this moniing on a sou]) made of some rejected bones. Afterward the traps were visited, but there was no fox to-day. The snow was knee-deep over the plain, and the tra])s were filled Avitli drifl. It was a tedious task to ])Ut them in order again. This cold work gave us an appetite to attack a piece of spoiled meat, which some cunning savage had palmed upon us for fresh. Being frozen, its condition did not affect our olfactories ; and its bad taste was partially destroyed by some citric acid, a small vial of which I had brought with me, to use, if occasion required, as an antiscorbutic. Novemher 24itJi. — Breakfasted on a cup of coffee. Later in the day we boiled together some blubber and stone-moss, which made us all sick. In the afternoon two EsquimaiLX hunters arrived from Akbat. We bought of them three birds, upon whicli u* ;• . J '.;&■■■ ■ I . i ' i il I I i 266 AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUIJNEY. wc supped. Thoy had nothing else upon their sleds. They woidd not sell any dogs, and they remained but a short time. One of them said that he had a sledge at home whieh lie would gladly trade for ours, and promised to return with it the following day ; but we have become .so well accustomed to Esquimaux promises that wc have very littk; tliith in them. ]-*etersen sliod, with some strips of hard wood, the runners which he had made. 2U' CHAP, xxvii. PllEPAHATIONS I'OU ADANDONINO Tllli HUT. The reader will fail to appreciate tlie events Avliieh have been narrated, and the apparently shifting \mv- poses of our party, unless he recalls froin time to time the motives and circumstances which were explained in the opening chapter of this history. After full de- lil)eration, and Avith the advice of the person most experienced in arctic ice, we had set out in the belief that the separation of the brig's company was important to the preservation of its members. To secure the main object of our journey we had constantly striven ; and our hope was not suffered to relax while there remained apparent the slightest possibiUty of its ac- complishment. When forced to think of replenishing our stores from the brig, in Avhich there was abundance of salt food for her entire company, we still avoided a re-union of the parties, trusting to oui* ability to com- plete the execution of our principal design. It was no time for judgment upon the abstract prudence of such ventures as we were making. Our undertaking was, from its first step, confessedly a desperate one, the result of desperate circumstances ; and it must be pro- secuted while we could fliitter ourselves with the least Ef'l -: 'i 1>G8 A\ AKCTIC llOAT JOUIINKY. 11 r.'iy of promise on tlie side of its iiltiiuato succi'ss. We proiriok'd cvory l;ivoura])lc suggestion, keeping up our spirits l)y mutual encouragement, until j)ersever;uico ceased to be justifiable. During the ])rogress of Petersen's labours upon tlie sledge, •\ve reviewed our means of judgment ; and en- deavouiing of course to avoid the extreme of rashness, we estimated anew the force of the various considera- tions ]>roper to our situation. We wen; entirely out of iood, and the movements of the Es(piima\ix warned us of harder times coming. When we arranged t)ur j)lans lor going to Cajx' York, we liad relied for assistance uj)on the natives at that place; but they had now idl gone away, or were about to go. The conclusion was forced upon us, that we could not winter at Booth Bay; and this last resort failing, we were compelled to accept the consequence, that our ultimate object was hopeless. A I'eturn to the brig upon one side — inevitable dejitli upon the otlier — Avere n^AV, beyond all question, the oidy alternatives. The return to our comrades at Rensselaer Harbour was first proposed while we were picking bones for breakfast on the 23rd ; and the wisdom of that proposal was confirmed in our minds next morning, when it was discussed over our coffee, and moss and blubber soup. Our plan was to set out as soon as the moon should give light enough to guide us on the way, it being now almost as dark at noon-day as at midnight. We would obtain tw^o more dogs, thus comiDleting a team of six, wdiich it was thought would readily drag our sledge laden with the very trifling cargo required, and with Stephenson, who was unable to walk. We would make ■• i INSUFFICIENT CLOTIIINO. 269 diivctly for Nortliumhorland Ishmd, stopjjluj^ once on the way ami camping in a .snow-liousc. For each person, therefore, a jwiir of blankets would be needed. This ]>lan was of course to take precedence of that previously arranged, l)y which Petersen and lionsjdi were to be tlie principal actors ; but like that, its exe- cution was dependent upon the Es(juimaiix. We could do nothing witliout more dogs. Preparations for departure wer(* inunediateiy com- menced. That all of us would live to reach Pensselaer Harbour seemed highly improbable ; yet there was some comfort in looking forward to a struggle which would relieve us from our i)resent uncertainty, and speedily decide our fortiuies. Our real wants were many; but it is scarcely necessary to say that these could be only meagrely sup])lied. Our clothing was wholly insufficient for such a journey as was contemplated. Only three of our numb(.'r possessed complete suits of ftu'. Each of us liad, fortunately, a coat or ^* Jumper," as we called it, (the Esquimaux hooded Kapetak,) of seal or reindeer-pelts ; and three of us had pantaloons of the same material ; but the pantaloons of the other five were of cloth or canvas, now well worn. Only skin clothing is adequate to resist the intense cold and piercing winds of the arctic deserts. We had no effective resource but our buffalo robes. It will be remembered by the reader that when we first took up our quarters in the hut, these were spread upon the " brecks ; " and there they had remained ever since. For nearly two months thvy had served as a tiiin pad to cover the stones and gravel on which we slept. m . y,i . liTO AN Ar.GTIC liOAT JOUr.NEV. i I III * To llu'st' they were found to be in places liijlitly frozen; and tlieir educes were glued by ice to the w.ills, so that it was not without some difheulty that they were re- moved. We were obliged to cut away neveral kettlcs- I'ull of ice before they would let go their hold u])on the stones. This ice was Ibi-med by tlie vapour which had been condi'nsed upon thc^ walls, and which, melting from time to tinu', as the temperature of the Imt became eh'vated, trickled down to a lower and colder level, where it was again fi-ozen. A large hunj) had thus accunnUalcd close beliind IMr. BonsjUl, and one corner of Ids blanket had become ind)edded in it. "We called it by way of distinction, '' Bonsjdl's glacier." We liad also a " Petersen's glacier," and a " John's glacier." Petersen's was at his feet, and John's was at liis head. When taken up, the robes were found to be coated on the imder side with frost, in consequence of wliich many pebbles adlievedto them. It was tliercfore neccs- siuy to suspend tliem fi'om the raflers for a few hours be- fore tliey were in a suitable condition to be worked upon. We slej^t now with two thicknesses of blanket be- tween our bodies and tlie stones and pebbles, and we were not much benefited or refreshed thereby. The " buffaloes " being partially dried, we com- menced our tailoring operations on the twenty-fifth, aftei- a breakfast of strong coffee. John was master- workman. The skins were spread over a breck, and lie cut out the garments after a style peculiai'ly his own, — a mixtm-e of the fashions wdiich prevail at Piu-is and at Netlik. The pieces as they were cut out were taken by different members of the party, and we were all soon engaged, with " palm and needle," sewing TAILOUINC. 271 "lip \hv HoaniH of stockings, pantaloons, uni] mil tens. It -was cold -work, but wv sliould not m) niiK.'li liavc mindi'd tliis had wo not been gnawed l)y a incrcilL'ss liungCT. Three of tlie party whose education in this depart- ment of useful art had been sadly neglected, were put under the tutonige of Petersen. One of these got on ■well enough, for he had had a little previous exj)erience ; but the two others had a sorry tim(» of it. Jf their fingers had not been so stiff and l>eiuunbed, ihey would, doubtless, have Kuccceded better; but, as it was, they could never get the awkwai'd " pahn " in proper contact with the butt-end of the needle; in consequence of which the latter frequently slipped from its thimble, and mafle ugly holes in their hands. By common consent a less difficult task was assigned to them, that of scorch- ing coffee for the journey. As the browned beans were poured out of the saucepan, tliey were groimd in a canvas ])ag by pounding with the hatchet. As the temperature of our hut was 25°, the sewer.s were often o})liged to stop in their work, and sti-ike their hands upon their l)acks to maintain the requisite degree of suppleness. Coffee was now even a greater luxury to us than it had been l)efore ; luid we drank it from time to time through the day. Fortunately we had plenty of it ; and now that we were about to abandon the hut, much more than ^^c should need. It had all been well soaked in the sea, and was a little brackish ; but we had T)ccomc used to that. It did much to supply the place of food ; and, although possessing no nutritive qualities itself, yet its well-known povrer of arresting the wasting processes »l!i»; AN ARCTIC BOAT JOUBNET. I ■ of the animal economy, aided greatly to support our strength. Its stimuhiting qualities were also useful. Our experience at this period convinces me that, to men living on short allowance of food, in a cold climate, where special stimidi are required, there is nothing as valuable as coiFee. To arctic travellers, spirits, in any form, are in almost every case worse than useless ; while coffee is always gratefid, and always beneficial. At the close of our first day's tailoring we supped on walnis-hide fried in oil. Before retiring to rest Peter- sen astonished us by producing from his bag a " ship's biscuit," which he divided into eight parts, giving one lO each of us. It was chiefly useful in reviving past recollections, and in exhibiting a characteristic trait of om* kind-hearted guide. It softened the expression of more than one very long and very wrinkled face ; and Petersen was, by acclamation, voted a " good fellow." The biscuit was the half of a daily allowance, in times when such evidences of civilization were less strange to us than now. Next morning, for breakfast, we boiled, instead of flying, our walrus-hide, and found the process a decided gain over the latter method. The skin was from a half to three quarters of an inch thick, and tough beyond conception. To chew it was quite impossible ; and in order to eat it we were obliged to cut it into thin slices, like chipped ^^eef, and swallow it as we best could. It was heavy fooct. Shortly after the completion of this wretched meal, four sledges, with four hunters, five women, and seven children, arrived from Akbat. The children were of all ages and sizes, from the babe at the breast to a rUHCHASE OF FQOD A:^D DOGS. 273 chattering girl of fourteen years. Oui* hut was more crowded than it had ever been before, there being in all twenty-two persons, having five square feet to eiich. We could not all have lain down at one time. The annoyance of packing we coukl easily pardon, for we obtained from the party four dozens of lumme, a few pieces of dried seal meat, and some strips of dried seal intestine imperfectly cleansed. Better almost than the food were two dogs, which we purchased of the party. We had now a team of six. These Esquimaux were moving northward. One of the hunters was the old man from Cape York, of whom Tattarat had spoken ; the others were of iVkbat, at which place only two families now remained. They told us that the hmiting-groimds at the south were closed up ; that they were on their way first to Netlik ; and that thence they would probably continue up the coast toward Peteravik, a place which we imderstood from their accoimt to be near Cape Alexander. The young hunter who promised us the sledge was one of the number ; but he liad changed his mind. Being after- ward further questioned, it turned out that he owned no sledge at all, and that even the one which he drove was borrowed. Much to our gratification, our visitors remained only a few hoiu's. The women and children, howevei , took a short nap ) and all partook of a hearty meal before setting out on their journey. The four himters came back next day. It was at once evident that they were bent on mischief; for they not only attempted every moment to pilfer from us, but they seemed glad when they discovered that they were T iM ; i^ i 1 ^1 i 974 AN AllCTIC BOAT JOUllNEV. annoying- us. Soon after tlicir arrival ihciv. came anotlior parly from the south. Tliese also were niovinp; ; and they entered at once into tlie .spirit of miHchief which possessed tlieir jiredeeessors. Anionp; the last arrivals was a very ugly and disiigreeahle woman, whose thieving propensities exceeded anything of the sort that \VQ had yet seen. Nothing was too small to cscajie her notice ; and u\xm going down to her sledge when her pjirty were about to leav«% wo found Ji most heterogent^ous collection of odds and ends, moat of which se(^med to be of no possible use. Trior to this we had missed two of our tin drinking-cups. She was charged with the theft ; but she strenuously denied having taken them, until we thrcati'ued to search her sledge, Avhen she ran oft' and brought them to us; and, as if for a peace-oftering, she threw at our feet three birds. She had evidently, with her woman's instinct, penetrated our special weakness. We were always open to bribes of th;)t sort. The whole party became at length so troublet^omc that we were compelled to drive them away, in order that we might get on with our preparations; for we were losing much valuable time. They did not, how- ever, leave us ; but they continued to hover in the vicinity. We suspected them of designs upon om* dogs ; two of which, it will be remembered, we had purchased of them on their former visit. Our first four purchases had become reconciled to their new (juai'ters ; but the last two seemed to prefer going with the teams to which they had belonged. They tried hard to break loose ; and this their owners seemed to be doing all they could to encourage. A watch was accordingly set, and kept lip until all was quiet ; when our sentry, believing that DOa 8T0LHN. 275 tho rofriu's Iind. p^ono, c.imo inside. No Mooncr waH he within llu* door (linn tlu; dog.s HV.t u\) ii cry, and in an. instant footstopH wvrv. licard. We nishcd outaH<[uickly fiH possil)U', hnt. not in time to save both of the dogs. One of tluMu and his cnptoi* wen; l)()un(hng away. Luckily I'oi" the man, lie wan ahiiost inini(!(hately hidden by the rocks; i'or I)ons.'iirs English rifle was going cpu