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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. ^ errata id to It ie pelure, 9on A n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 .lB.M» # T^f 1: 'I t 4^ THROU( AROUND T Al AtrmoR OF TAitMO THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT THE SOURCES OF THE NILE AROUND THE GREAT LAKES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA AND DOWN THE LIVINGSTONE RIVER TO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN BY HENRY M. STANLEY itrniOR OF "HOW i found livinostonr," "ooom.vssij!: and mahdal/l,'* "Jiy KALULO," KTO TYfO VOLUMES IN OjSE. VOL. I. MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 1 - 1 TORONTO: JOHN B. MAQURN. YAHMOUTU, MOVA SOOTIA: JOHN KILLAM, Shk. 1878. M.A ^U ::" i 2)73 5 1 c ?3 2 % T) i 4 ■0"' Pbintxid bt C, Blackktt Robtosoit, 5 Jordan St., Tobonto. THE HEABTI OV KXPLOBINO T AN INDUCE M DT D£1)ICAI ME. J. M. M] AND IN CONSEC BY MR. WITHOUT THE THESU: Q] r^n- ^ IMSTITUTE. giebuafion. nd eight Minister THE HEARTY ENOOVBAOEMEN T AND LIBERAIi UEANS WHICH ENABLED Ml IX) PERFOBU TUB MISSIO.V ENTRUSTED TO MB, 07 EXPLORINO THE UARK CONTINENT OF AFRICA AND BOLVINO MANY INTEBISTINO OEOORAPMICAL PROBLEMS, AND TO FiTTINOLT BEWAIID THE FAITHFUL SURVIVORS, INDUCB ME TO MAKE PUBLIC MT DEEP PERSONAL ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, BY DBDICATINO THESE VOLUMES, WHICH RECORD IT3 RESULTS, TO TUr PROMOTERS OF TUB ENTERPRISE, MR. J. M. LEVY AND MR. EDWARD L. LAWSON, PROPRIETCUS OF THE • DAILY TELEGRAPH,' AND MR. JAMES GORDON BENNETT, PROPRIETOR OF THE ' NEW YORK HERALD,' AND IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE GREAT AND CONSTANT INTEREST MANIFESTED BY HIM IS THE SUCCESS OF THE UNDERTAKING, I MUST BE PERMITTED TO AUD THE NAME OF MR. EDWIN ARNOLD, C.S.I. and F.R.G.S. WITHOUT THE PATRONAGE, FULL CONFIDENCE, AND CORDIAL SYMPATHY OP THESU GENTLEMEN I SHOULD HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THE TASK NOW UAITILY COMPLETED. n. M. STANLEY. f -M ■-•v., /■ / . >-;;f Before the Author's hi addressing : express my for the gra< my survivin in Africa. In the sec my thanks congratulatii J. W. Harrii timely siippl: new life ; to did their hei the kindly c( so royally en to the direct Companies, a former, and Black of the on my setting Admiralty, a officer on th( disposal H.M for continuin Zanzibar ; to for the great fm PiiEFAGE Before these volumes pass irrovocibly out of the Author's hands, I take this, the last, opportunity of addressing my readers. In the first place, I have to express my most humble thanks to Divine Providence for the gracious protection vouchsafed to myself and my surviving followers during our late perilous labours in Africa. In the second place, I have to convey to many friends my thanks for their welcome services and graceful congratulations, notably to Messrs. Motta Yiega and J. W. Harrison, the gentlemen of Boma who, by their timely supplies of food, electrified the Expedition into new life ; to the sympathizing society of Loanda, who did their best to spoil us with flattering kindness ; to the kindly community of the Cape of Good Hope, who so royally entertained the homeward bound strangers ; to the directorates of the B. I. S. N. and the P. and 0. Companies, and especially to Mr. W. Mackinnon of the former, and Mr. H. Bayley and Captain Thomas H. Black of the latter, for their generous assistance both on my setting out and on my returning ; to the British Admiralty, and, personally, to Captain Purvis, senior officer on the West Coast Station, for placing at my disposal H.M.S. Industry, and to Commodore Sullivan, for continuing the great favour from the Cape to Zanzibar ; to the officers and sailors of H.M.S. Industry, for the great patience and kindness which they showed I w I -it yf riiEFACE. to tlie weaned Africans; and to my fiiends at Zan- zibar, especially to Mr. A. Sparliawk, for their kindly welcome and cordial help. In the next place, to the illustrious individuals and Societies who have intimated to me their appreciation of the services I have been enabled to render to Science, I have to convey the very respectful ex- pression of my sense of the honours thus conferred upon me — to his Majesty King Humbert of Italy, for the portrait of himself, enriched with the splendid com- pliment of his personal approbation of my services,* which with the gold medal received from his royal iather, King Victor Emanuel, will for ever be treasured with pride — to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, for the distinguished honour shown me by his personal recognition of my work — to H.H. the Khedive of Egypt, for the high distinction of the Grand Com- mandet^ip of the Order of the Medjidie, with the Star and Collar — to the Royal Geographical Society of London for its hearty public reception of me on my return, and for the highly valued diploma of an Honorary Corresponding Member subsequently re- ceived — to the Geographical Societies and Chambers of Commerce of Paris, Italy, and Marseilles, for the great honour of the Medals awarded to mef — to the Geo- graphical Societies of Antwerp, Berlin, Bordeaux, Bremen, Hamburg, Lyons, Marseilles, Montpellier, and • The portrait has been graciously subscribed — ** Air intrepido viaggiatore " Enrico Stanley *'Umbe»to Ee." t I have received the honour of appointment as Officier de rinstruc- tion Publique, France ; Gold Medallist of the Geographical Societies of Tjondon, Paris, Italy, and Marseilles ; Silver Medallist of the Chamber of Commerce of Marseilles, and of the Municipality of iviarseilles ; Honorary Member of the Geographical t-'ocieties of. Antwerp, Berlin, Bordeaux, Bremen, Hamburg, Lyons, Marseilles, Montpellier, Vienna, &o. Vienna, am privilege o been admit gentlemen in the wor public fa vol do I wish honours ar* And for y thanks — one as more pi The Govern success with vote of than has made ra achievement Alas 1 tha are left to m who started tinent, and fidelity and i pleasure of n for dear life left so few ( willing hand so much of i1 That the r understood b mv conscienc actions, whi< misunderstai] to me only a those who re had "a shar many such e; Of the m PREFACE, Vil Vienna, and to tlie Society of Arts of Lnnrlon, for tlio privilege of Honorary Membership to which I have been admitted — to the very iinmeroiis distinguished gentlemen who have lent the influence of their authority in the worlds of Science, Letters, and Society to the public favour so liberally extended to me — to all these do I wish to convey my keen appreciation of the honours .iiid favours of which I have been the recipient. And for yet another honour I have to express my thanks — one which I may be pardoned for regarding as more precious, perhaps, than even all the rest. The Government of the United States has crowned my success with its official approval, and the unanimous vote of thanks passed in both Houses of the Legislature has made me proud for life of the Expedition and its achievements. Alas 1 that to share this pride and these honours there are left to me none of those gallant young Englishmen who started from this country to cross the Dark Con- tinent, and who endeared themselves to me by their fidelity and affection : alas ! that to enjoy the exceeding pleasure of rest among friends, after months of fighting for dear life among cannibals and cataracts, there are left so few of those brave Africans to whom, as the willing hands and the loyal hearts of the Expedition, so much of its success was due. That the rule of my conduct in Africa has not been understood by all, I know to my bitter cost ; but with my conscience at ease, and the simple record of my daily actions, which I now publish, to speak for me, this misunderstanding on the part of a few presents itself to me only as one more harsh experience of life. And those who read my book will know that I have indeed had "a sharp apprehension and keen intelligence" of many such experiences. Of the merits and demerits of this book it is not 1^ ' ! • •• vni PBEFACE. for me to speak. The Publishers' Note prefixed to the first volume explains how much I have had to omit from even the simple narrative of the journey, but it remains for me to state that this omission has been due an much to the exigencies of space and time as to the fact that in the running chronicle of our eventful progress "Reflections" and scientific infer- ences — all the aftergrowth of thought — would have tediously interrupted the record. With reference to the illustrations, I should mention that I carried a photo- graphic apparatus with me across the continent, and so long as my dry plates held out I never lost an oppor- tunity of obtaining a good view, and when my plates were used up I found the reflection of the scenes on the ground glass of my camera an invaluable aid to my unpractised pencil. In conclusion, I have to thank Mr. Phil. Robinson, the author of * In my Indian Garden,' for assisting me in the revision of my work. My acknowledgments are also due to Lieut. S. Schofield Sugden, R.N., for the perseverance and enthusiasm with which he recalculated all my observations, making even the irksome compila-' tion of maps a pleasant task. In their drawing and engraving work, Mr. E. Weller and Mr. E. Stanford, and in the intelligent reproduction of my pictures, Mr. J. D. Cooper, have earned my thanks, and in no less a degree Messrs. Wilh'am Clowes and Sons, for the care and despatch with which these volumes have been pre- pared for the public, II.M. S. May 27, 1878. Part L— Mj — Tho plicants Paut II. Burton oi Spcke, G work l)cf( Arrival at Za zibar, its r the red cl — Residei rides and Seyyid Bargha — 'i reaty ways tho Zanzibar - and virtue " tho comi Organization Mscnna's i Lady Alio tho millioi white niai — Toward 'I Bagamoyo — 1 An excitin Mission, it CONTENTS. {Vol. I.) EXPLANATION. Part I. — My new mission — The iJaily Telegraph — " Yes ; Bennett " — The Lady Alice — My European staflF — Disappointed ap- plicants and thoughtful friends — My departure for Africa. Paut II. — The Sources of the Nile — Herodotus on the Nile — Burton on the Nile basin — Lake Tanganika —Lake Victoria — Speke, Grant, and Cameron — The Livingstone Eiver — The work before me PAGB CHAPTER I. Arrival at Zanzibar Island — Life at Zanzibar — The town of Zan™ zibar, its roadstead and Tjuildings — The One Cocoa-nut Tree and the red clifl's — Selection and purchase of goods for the journey — Residence of Prince Barghash — Busy mornings — Pleasant rides and quiet evenings 23 CHAPTER n. Seyyid Barghash — His prohibition of slavery, character, and reforms — Treaty with British Government by Sir Bartle Frere — Tram- ways the need of Africa — Arabs in the interior — Arabs in Zanzibar — Mtuma or Mgwana ? — The Wangwana, their vices and virtues — A Mgwana's highest ambition— The Wanyamwezi " the coming race " 39 CHAPTER m. Organization of the Expedition — The shatiri — " Poli-poli " — Msenna's successful iinix)8ture — Black sheep in the flock — The Lady Alice remodelled — Sewing a British Hag — Tarya Topan, the millionaire — Signing the covenants — "On the word frf a white man " — Saying good-bye — Loading the dhows — Vale 1 •— Towards the Dark Continent 64 ♦.j M m CHAPTER IV. Bagamoyo — Taming the dark brother — Bagamoyo in a feiment — An exciting scene — The disturbance quelled — The Universitiea Mission, its origin, his'ory, decline, and present condition — The M U-, CONTENTS. FAOl Rev. Edward Steere — Notre Dame de Bagamoyo — Westward ho! — In marcliing order — Sub Jove fervido — Crossing the Eingani — The stolen women 70 CHAPTER V. On the march — Congovido to Riibuti — The hunting-grounds of Kitangeh — Shooting zebra — " Jack's " first prize — Inter- viewed by lions — Geology of Mpwapwa — Dudoma — " The flood-gates of heaven " opened — Dismal reflections — The Salina — A conspiracy discovered — Desertions — The path lost — Star- vation and deaths — Trouble imminent — Grain htits plundered — Situation deplorable — Sickness in the camp — Edward Pocock taken ill — His death and funeral 88 CHAPTER VL From Chiwyu to Vinyata — Kaif Ilalleck murdered — The magic doctor — Giving away the heart — Deeds of blood — " The white men are only women" — A three days' fight — Punishment of the Wanyaturu — The ubiquitous Mirambo — The plain of the Luwamberri — In a land of plenty — Through the open country — "I have seen the lake, Sir, and it is grand I " — Welcomed at Kagehyi 118 CHAPTER Vn. A burzah held — Payinfj; off recruits — Kagehyi becomes a great trading centre — A Central African " tojier " — Prince Kaduma — Hopes of aej^ii.uince from him relinquished — The boat ready for sea — No volunteers — Selecting my crew — The start for the circumnavigation of Lake Victoria 14.G CHAPTER VIII. Afloat on the lake — We catch a guide — Saramba's terror — The Shimeeyu — Pyramid Point — The island of Ukerewo — In the haunts of crocodiles — Shizu Island — The hippopotami — Ururi — The headlands of Goshi — Bridge Island — Volcanoes — U-go-weh — The inebriates of Ugamba — Treachery at Maheta — Primitive man — The art of pleasing — A night at Uvuma — Mobbed by Wavuma — Barmecide fare — Message from Mtesa — " In the Kabaka's name " — Camp on Soweh Island .. .. 156 CHAPTER IX. An extraordinary monarch — I am examined — African "chaff " — MtijFa, Emperor of Uganda — Description of Mtesa — A naval review — Arrival at the imperial capital — Mtesa's palace ^ Tftscination of the country — - 1 meet a white man — Col. Linant de Bellofor field — A p camp Parting with C The sailors Alexandra Alone with — A dark night never Saved ! — El — Back in Barker's illness i Rest I — Sic Magassa fai comes to th bians — Lea foundering ( at Refuge If rest — A mu Kagehyi — ^ with Komeh bireh group) scorned — Tl the Kytawa ( derers — Its in Uganda We find Mtesa at The Wagand harem — In liminary skir peace party - tion proceodj Jesus or Moh The war-drum bt paint — Bnlle fury — Victoi chief — A sti floating mysl The camp on COIi TENTS. rAoi 70 88 IglC lite ; of the itry I at .. 118 .. 146 3sa .. 156 ml nt do Bellofoncls — The process of conversion — A grand mission field — A pleasant day with Col. de Beilefonds — Starting for my camp 1&7 CHAPTER X. Parting with Colonel Linant — Magassa's vanity and disloyalty — The sailors' island — Jumba's Cove — Uganga — Dnmo — The Alexandra Nile — Lupassi Point — In danger at Mnkoiigo — Alone with Nature — Insect life — Dreams of a liapjiier future — A dark secret — Murabo and the fish — Alice Island — A night never to be forgotten — The treachery of Bumbirch — Saved 1 — Eefuge Island — Wiru — " Go and die in the Nyanza ! " — Back in camp — Sad news 211 CHAPTER XI. Barker's illness and death — Other deaths — Traitors in the camp — Rest 1 — Sickness — Rwoma blocks our passage by land — Magassa fails us by water — A serious dilemma — Lukongeh comes to the rescue — History of Ukerewe — Educated amplii- bians — Leaving Kagehyi with half tlie Expedition — The foundering canoes — All saved — Ito conciliates us — Arrival at Refuge Island with half the Expedition — I return for the rest — A murderous outbreak in camp — Final departure fronr. Kagehyi — All encamped on Refuge Island — We ally ourselves with Komeh — A dance of kings — Mahyiga Island (in the Bum- bireh group) — Interviewed by Iroba canoes — Our friendship scorned — The king of Bumbireh a hostage — The massacre of the Kytawa chief and his crew — Tlie punishment of the mur- derers — Its salutary effect upon their neighbours — We arrive in Uganda 212 CHAPTER XII. We find Mtesa at war — " Jack's Mount " — Meeting with Mtcsa — The Waganda army in camp and on the march — The imperial harem — In sight of the enemy — The Waganda fleet — Pre- liminary skirmishing — Tlie causeway — The massacre of ^Itesa's peace party — " What do you know of angels ?" — Mtesa's educa- tion proceeds in the intervals of war — Translating the Bible — Jesus or Mohammed ? — Mtesa's decision — The royal proselyte 207 CHAPTER XIII. The war-drum beaten — The wizards play their part — In full war- paint — Bullets against spears — The Wavuma baulked — Mtesa's fury — Victory or the stake! — Hard fighting — The captive chief — A struggle between the pagan and the Christian — A floating mystery — "Rt. turn, spirit I the war is ended!" — The camp on fire : a race for life 826 Xll CONTENTS, CHAPTER XIV. The legend of the Blameless Priest — The heroes of Ugancla : Chwa ; Eimera, the giant; Nakivingi; Kibaga, the flying warrior; Ma'anda ; "Wakinguru, the champion ; Kamanya, the conqueror 'of the Wakedi; Suna, the cruel; his massacre of the Wasoga; Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda; Setuba and his lions; Easindula, the hero, peasant, and premier — Mtesa the mild- eyed CHAPTER XV. Life and manners in Uganda — The Peasant — The Cliiof— The PAoa Emperor — The Land CHAPTER XVL TO MUTA NZIGfc AND BACK TO UGANDA. The ladies of Mtesa's family — Sambuzi ordered to take mo to Muta N/ige — My last evening with Mtesa — En route for Muta Nzige — Sambuzi suffers 1. ora the " big head" — We come to an understanding — The white people of Gambaragara — War music — Through a deserted country — Sinister auguries — A cowards' council of war — Panic in the camp — Sambuzi announces his intention of deserting me — The flight when none pursued — The " Spoiler " eaten up — Mtesa tries to persuade me to return — AtKafurro CHAPTER XVIL Kafurro and its mngnates — Lake Windermere — Rumanika, the gentle king of Karagwe — His country — The Ingezi — Among the mosquitoes — Ilioma Island — The triple cones of Ufumbiro — Double-horned rhinoceros — The hot springs of Mtagata — The Geograpliical Society of Karagwe — The philosophy of noses — Rumanika's thesauron — Some new facts about the rhinoceros and elephant — Uhimba — Paganus, var, esuriens — Retrospect CHAPTER XVIIL 814 381 ^5 453 The twin rivers — Mankorongo baulked of his loot — Poor Bull I True to the death — Msenna breaks out again — The terror of Africa appears on tlie scene — Mars at peace — " Dig potatoes, potatoes, potatoes " — Mirambo, the bandit chief, and I make blood-brotherhood — Little kings with " big heads " — Practical convarsion of the chief of Ubagw^ — The Watuta, the Ishmaelites of Africa — Their history — African nomenclature — From Msen6 across the Malagarazi to Ujiji — Sad memories 483 KO. 1. Portrait of the 2. View from til e a phutograp 8. Burying our T 4. Kcception by ] 5. Mtesa, the En {From a ph 6. Reception at I 7. The Strange Usukuina ai 8. View of the near Kisory {From a phi 9. Viewof Kipon 10. Tlie Outfall o birtli to tli< {From a phi 11. The Victoria Unyoro. froi graph.) 12. One of the G the VVavumi Cape Nakar 13. The Napoleon the Hipun 1 ing from U8( 14. Kubnga, tlio Ni 15. Mtesa's Amazo IG. Marching thr distance 17. The Lady Alia 18. ViowofaPorti to Sliaugaiii 19. Red Cliffs bohii 20. The British Co 21. Seyyid Bargliai 22. Coxswain Uledi 23. Ntw Church oi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. iVol I.) fto. 1. FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of tho Author . . View from tho Hoof of Mr. Augustus Sparhawk's Uousc. 8. 4. 5. a photograph.) Burying our Dead iu hostile Turn : View of the Camp . . Reception by King Mtesa's Body-guard at Usavara Mtcsa, the Emperor of Uganda, Prime Minister, and Chiefs. {From a photograph.) 6. Reception at Bwnhiroh Island, Victoria Nyanza . . 7. The Strange Granite Rocks of Wezi Island, midway between Usukuma and Ukerewtf. {From a photograph.) View of the Bay leading to Rugedzi Channel from Ugoma, near Kisorya, South Side of Ukerew^, Coast of Speke Gulf. {From a photograph.) .. .. .. .. .. .. View of Ripon Falls from the Uganda side. {From a photograph.) Tlie Outfall of the Victoiia Nyanza : Ripon Falls, which give birth to the Victoria Nile. Camp of Rear-guard on HilL {From a photograph.) The Victoria Nile, North of Ripon Falls, rushing towards Unyoro. from tho Usoga side of the Falls. {From a photo- graph.) One of the Great Naval Battles between the Wuganda and the VVavuma, in the Channel between In'-lra Island and Cape Nakaranga The Napoleon Channel, Lake Victoria, from the Heights above tho Ripon Falls. Flotilla of tlie Emperor of Uganda cross ing from Usoga to Uganda. {From a photograph.) . . Rubnga, tlio New Capital of the Emperor Mtesa 15. Mtesa's Amazons. {From a photograph.) IG. Marching through Unyoio: Mount Gordon-Bennett in the distance •• Fn/ntispieee. {From .. To face 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. n SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. 17. The Lady Aliee in seciionB .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 18. View of a Portion of the Kea-front of Zanzibar, from the \Vater Battery to Sliangani Point. (^From a photograph.) 19. Red ClifTs behind Universities Mission .. .. 20. Tho British Consulate at Zanzibar . . .. 21. Seyyid Barghash 22. Coxswain Uledi, and Manwa Sera, chief captain. {From a photograph.) 23. New Church on Site of Old Slave Market, Zanzibar FAOI 37 115 T88 189 229 248 267 800 301 305 832 843 393 400 427 28 36 39 40 50 53 t' ; XIV LIST OF ILLUSTIiATlONS. an). 24, «5 26 27. 28. 29. 80. 81. 82. 33. 34. 35. 86. 87. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 63. 54. Q5. 56. 67. '^8. FAca TaryaTopan 03 Universities Mission at Mbwcnni, Zanzibar. (^From a pliotograph.) .. 68 " Towards the Dark Continent " C9 Wife of Manwa Sera. (From a photograph.) .. 82 The Expedition at Rosako. (From a photograph.') .. .. .. 88 View from the Village of Mamboya .. .. .. .. .. 92 Our Camp at Mpwapwa. (From a photograph.) .. •• •• 97 " lu Memoriam." Edward Pocoek, died January 17, 1875 .. *. 117 Mnyiimwczi Pagazi .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 141 View of Kagohyi from the Edge of t?ifi Lake. (From a photograph.)., 144 Frank Pocoek. (From a photograph.) ' .. .. .. .. .. 145 Bridge Island .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1G6 Cairn erected to the IVIomory of Frederick Darker : Majita and Urnri Mountains in the Distance, across Speke Gulf. (From a photograph ) 241 At tlie lianding-place of Msossi : View of Kitiiri Hill to the Lelt ; Majita Mountain to the Right. (From a photograph.) .. .. 251 Natives, Utensils, J^c. of Ukerew^ . . .. .. .. .• .. 2.55 Sketch Map: Cape Nakaranga ..• .. .. .. .. .. 311 The Floating Fortlet moving towards Ingira Island .. .. .. 339 Fish found in Lake Victoria 343 Huts of East Central Africa 385 Audience Hall of the Palace 395 Musical Instruments .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 413 NgogoFish 414 Implements and Weapons of Central Africa 419 Mount Edwin Arnold .. .. 4:?3 House and Wooden Utensils of Uzimba and Ankori 437 Canoes and Paddles of Africa .. .. .. .. .. .. 451 Rumanika's Treasure-house .. .. 457 A Native of Uhha 4C4 View of Ufumbiro Mountains from Mount near Mtngata Hot Springs 465 Ground Plan of King's House .. .. 474 Treasure-house, Arms, and Treasures of Rumanika .. .. .. 475 "Bull." (From a photograph.) 487 Serumbo Huts .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 489 A " Ruga- Ruga." one of Mirambo's Patriots 491 One of the V/atuta 6Ui MAPS. 1. ^Tap of Eastern ITalf of Equatorial Africa. 2. Map of Equatorial Africa (from Dapper, 1676). 8. „ „ „ Krapf, Kebmann, Livingstone, and Erhardt's Map, 1819-63. 4. „ „ „ Livingstone, Burton and Sjicke, Speke, Grant, and von SI No business than an ageno^i Works. Some of the soription only, tone, rare literi works which, fr( corned to every to the Canvassei In mechanica class — well prin bound. Subscrj what they contrt to sell these boo men and womei employment, w engage in this bi of men and thin Circulars with agency. Addret 5. 6. Jer Deckcu, 1853-63. :liweinf urth, Uaii 1806-75. Stonley, 1874-77 Scliweinf urth, Uaker, Livingstone, Stanley, and Cameroa« 1866-75. G3 68 C9 82 88 92 97 117 141 144 145 1G6 241 251 255 311 839 343 385 895 413 414 419 4:?3 437 451 457 404 465 474 475 487 489 491 5U1 SUBSCRIPTION BOOKS. No business will yield a larger return on the capital invested, than an agency for popular Histories, and Standard, Illustrated Works. Some of the best books ever published have been sold by sub- scription only. We will publish only works that are of high moral tone, rare literary merit, and positive and permanent value, — works which, from their intrinsic and sterling worth, will be wel- comed to every home and fireside in the country, and be a credit to the Canvassers who introduce them. In mechanical execution our publications will always be first- class — well printed on good paper, and tastefully and substantially bound. Subscribers for our works can always depend on receiving what they contract for. AGENTS ARE WANTED to sell these books in every town and township in Canada. To men and women wishing honorable, pleasant and remunerative employment, we offer liberal inducements. Young men who engage in this business will gain a knowledge of the country, and of men and things which will be of great benefit to them. Circulars with full ir formation will be sent to anyone wishing an agency. Address, JOHN B. MAGUKN, TORONTO. ONT. ■ -i- / t "'ao^ 'i ^^^^^"* i ' i i *' ^'^: V, 1^.^ ir-f I throug: Jly new mission — Mice — My Eu: friends — My the Nile— Hen Lake Tanganil The Livingstoi While returni Ashantee War, was dead — tha Livingstone liad died by the of the dark regi he had promise death overtook The effect w first shock had resolution to co the next mart} was to be spare Great River tl; remained still discoveries of E The solemn c friend arrived, minster Abbey, into the grave, .4^ 1 THROUGH THE DAPvK CONTINENT. > -..# ?^'^'^'^:^:^^ 1^ . > -- 1 !^ y i i .^ EXPLANATION.— Paiit L • - * My new misRion — The Daily Telegraph — " Yes; Bennett" — The Lady Mice — My European staff — Disappointed applicants and thoughtful friends — My departure for Africa. Part II. The sources of the Nile— Herodotus on tho Nile — Burton on the Nile basin — Lake Tanganika — Lake Victoria — Speke, Grant, and Cameron — The Livingstone Eiver — The work before mo. While returning to England in April 1874 from the Ashantee War, the news reached me that Livingstone was dead — that his hotly was on its way to England ! Livingstone had then fallen ! He was dead ! He liad died by the shores of Lake Bemba, on the threshold of the dark region he had wished to explore ! The work he had promised me to perform was only begun when death overtook him ! The effect which this news had upon me, after the first shock had passed away, was to fire me with a resolution to complete his work, to be, if God willed it, the next martyr to geographical science, or, if my life was to be spared, to clear up not only the secrets of the Great River throughout its course, but also all that remained still problematic and incomplete of the discoveries of Burton and Speke, and Sj)eke and Grant. The solemn day of the burial of tlie body of my great friend arrived. I was one of the pall-bearers in West- minster Abbey, and when I had seen the coffin lowered into the grave, and had heard the first handful of earth B TEBOUOH THE DARK CONTINENT. thrown over it, I walked away sorrowing over the fate of David Livingstone. I laboured night and day over my book, * Coomassie and Mngdala,' ibr I was in a fever to begin that to which I now had vowed to devote myself. Within three weeks the literary work was over, and T was free. Soon after this I was passing by an old book-shop, and observed a volume bearing the singular title of *How to Observe.' Upon opening it, I perceived it contained tolerably clear instructions of "How and what to observe." It was very interesting, and it whetted my desire to know more ; it led me to puichase quite an extensive library of books upon Afiica, its geography, geology, botany, and ethnology. I thus became possessed of over one hundred and thirty books upon Africa, which I studied with the zeal of one who had a living interest in the subject, and with the under- standing of one who had been already four times on that continent. I knew what had been accomplished by Afi'ican explorers, and I knew bow much of the dark interior was still unknown to the world. Until late hours I sat up, inventing and planning, sketching out routes, laying out lengthy lines of possible exph)ration, noting many suggestions which the con- tinued study of my project created. I also drew up lists of instruments and other paraphernnlia that would be required to map, lay out, and describe the new regions to be traversed. I had strolled over one day to the office of tlie Paily Tdegraph, full of the subject. While I was discussing journalistic enterprise in general with one of the staff, the Editor entered. We spoke of Livingstone and tlie unfinished task remaining behind him. In reply to an eager remark which I made, he asked : — ** Could you, and would you, complete the work ? And what is there to do ? " I answered "The outl We know n( sketched out- whether it coi the sources of the western white blank." " Do you t mission you ?' ■ *'AVhi*le I ] survive the ti shall be done.' The matter Mr. James G( had prior claii A telegram *' Would he Stardey out t Speke, Burton four hours, my on as a joint the cable flashi A few days Tdegraph ann prietors had i in organizing under the com; purpose of th the work left Dr. Livingstoi problems of th investigate an( traders." . . . whose common so well illustral e fate nassie lat to Within s free, -shop, itle of vcd it V and md it rcliase ca, its [ thus books le who under- nc'S on ^lished ch of world, nninir, ossible le con- ew up would e new 1 Paily jussing e staff, nd the ply to work ? MT NEW MISSION, i I answered : — "The outlet of Lake Tanganika is undifscovered. We know nothing scarcely — except what Speke has sketched out — of Lake 'Victoria; we do not even know whether it consists of one or many lakes, and therefore the sources of the Nile are still unknown. Moreover, the western half of the African continent is still a white blank," ** Do you think you can settle all this, if we com- mission you ?" *' While I live, there will be something done. If I survive the time required to perform all the work, all shall be done." The matter was for the moment suspended, because Mr. James Gordon Bennett, of the New York Ileraldj had prior claims on my services. A ti'legram was despatched to New York to hira *' Would he join the Daily Telegraph in sending Stanley out to Africa, to complete the discoveries of Speke, Burton, and Livingstone ? " and, within twenty- four hours, my " new mission " to Africa was determined on as a joint expedition, by the laconic answer which the cable flashed under the Atlantic : " Yes ; Bennett." A few days before 1 departed for Africa, the Daily Ttlegraph announced in a leading article that its pro- prietors had united with Mr. James Gordon Bennett in organizing an expedition of African discovery, under the command of Mr. Henry M. Stanley. " Tiie purpose of the enterprise," it said, *'is to complete the work left unfinished by the lamented death of Dr. Livingstone; to solve, if possible, tlie remaining problems of the geography of Central Africa; and to investigate and report upon the haunts of the slave- traders." .... *'He will represent the two nations whose common interest in the regeneration of Africa was so well illustrated when the lost English explorer was B 2 i 'rf\ 4 Tim UGH THE DARK CONTINENT. rediscovered by the energetic American correspondent. In that memorable journey, Mr. Stanley displayed the best qualities of an African traveller; and with no inconsiderable resources at his disposal to reinforce his own complete acquaintance with the conditions of African travel, it may be hoped that very important results will accrue from this undertaking to the advantage of science, humanity, and civilisation." Two weeks were allowed me for purchasing boats — a yawl, a gig, and a barge — for giving orders for pon- toons, and purchasing equipment, guns, ammunition, rope, saddles, medical stores, and provisions ; for makirig investments in gifts for native chiefs ; for obtaining scientific instruments, stationery, &c. &c. The barge was an invention of my own. TUIO " LADY ALICE " IN SECTIONS. It was to be 40 feet Jong, 6 feet beam, and 30 inches deep, of Spanish cedar f inch thick. When finished, it was to be separated into five sections, each of which should be 8 feet long. If the sections should be over-weight, they were to be again divided into halves for greater facility of carriage. The construction of this novel boat was undertaken by Mr. James Messenger, boat-builder, of Teddington, near London. The pon- toons were made by Cording, but though the workman- ship was beautiful, they were not a success, because the superior efficiency of the boat for all purposes rendered them unnecessary. However, they were not wasted. Necessity comp( for far differer had originally 1 There lived name of Freder to go to Africa, its unhealthy uncompromising " He would go To meet the ei requested him i United States. Mr. Edwin A gested that I s voung En dish ground that the useful to me. ] fisherman, nam Kent, who had fine stalwart sc honest and tru volunteered at warned the Po« a cruel charact daily comforts o explorer would would most HI unacclimatized. borne by the ( adventurous lads Pocock, two V accordingly eng I crossed ovei the ** White Sta and after a fi\ belonging to the \i MY EUIiOPKAN STAFF. (V Necessity compelled us, while in Africa, to employ them for far different purposes from those for which they had originally been designed. There Hved a clerk at the Langham ITotel, of the name of Frederick Barker, who, smitten with a desire to go to Africa, was not to he dissuaded by reports of its unhealthy climate, its dangerous fevers, or the uncompromising views of exploring life given to him. " He would go, he was determined, to go," he said. To meet the earnest entreaties of this young man, I requested him to wait until I should return from the United States. Mr. Edwin Arnold, of the Daili/ Telegraphy also sug- gested that I should be accompanied by one or more young English boatmen of good character, on the ground that their river knowledge would be extremely useful to me. He mentioned his wish to a most worthy fisherman, named Henry Pocock, of Lower Upnor, Kent, who had kept his yacht for him, and who had fine stalwart sons, who bore the reputation of being honest and trustworthy. Two of these young men volunteered at once. Both Mr. Arnold and myself warned the Pocock family repeatedly that Africa had a cruel character, that the sudden change from the daily comforts of English life to the rigorous one of an explorer would try the most perfect constitution ; would most likely be fatal to the uninitiated and unacclimatized. But I permitted myself to be over- borne by the eager courage and devotion of these adventurous lads, and Francis John Pocock and Edward Pocock, two very likely-looking young men, were accordingly engaged as vny assistants. I crossed over to America the guest of Mr. Ismay, of the ** White Star " line, to bid farewell to my friends, and after a five days' stay returned in a steamer belonging to the same Company. 6 TiiROuan THE dauk continent. ^leantime, soon after the announcement of the " New Mission," applications by tlie score poured into the offices of tlie Da'ihj Tehijraph and New York Herald for emidoyment. Before I sailed from Enj^lnnd, over 1200 letters were received from "p:enerals," "colonels," "captains," "lieutenants," "midshipmen," "engineers," "commissioners of hotels," mechanics, waiters, cooks, servants, somebodies and noWdies, spiritual mediums and mngnetizers, &c. &c. They all knew Africa, were perfectly acclimatized, were quite sure they would please me, would do important services, save me from any number of troubles by their ingenuity and resources, take me up in balloons or by flying carriages, make us all invisible by their magic arts, or by the " science of magnetism " would cause all savages to f;ill asleep while we might pass anywhere without trouble. Indeed I feel sure th^t, had enough money been at my disposal at that time, 1 might have led 5000 Englishmen, 5C00 Amer!jans, 2000 Frenchmen, 2000 Germans, 600 Italians, 250 Swiss, 200 Belgians, 60 Spaniards and 6 Greeks, or 16,005 Europeans, to Africa. But the time had not arrived to depopulate Europe, and colonize Africa on such a scale, and I was compelled to respectfully decline accepting the valuable services of the applicants, and to content myself with Francis John and Edward Pocock, and Frederick Barker — whose entreaties had been seconded by his mother, on my return from America. I was agreeably surprised also, before departure, at the great number of friends I possessed in England, who testified their friendship substantially by pre- senting me with useful " tokens of their regard " in the shape of canteens, watches, water-bottles, pipes, pistols, knives, pocket companions, manifold writers, cigjirs, packages of medicine. Bibles, prayer- books, English tracts for the dissemination of religious knowl tiny silk bannc whom I have a a magnificent p] officer presente( Home at Batte dog, and a bi Pococks "Nero There were t accepted before at the house of t I met Captain \ friends. Captai the sources of t] by the represem were present ^. Stillman, Mr. G other journalists bye, and that wi On the 15th Europeans, boat expedition — whi Bayley, of the I Mr. AVilliam M; Navigation Com lialf-fares — I left to begin my exp i ¥lf' ♦ aOOD'MYEJ 7 religious knowledge among the black pngans, poems, tiny silk banners, gold rings, &c. il'C. A lady for whom I have a reverent respect j>rcsented me also with a mngnificent prize mastiff named " Castor," an English officer presented me with another, and at the Dogs' Home at Battersea I purchased a retriever, a bull- dog, and a bull-terrier, called respectively by the Pococks " Nero," " Bult;"vftnd " Jack/' There were two little farewell dinners only which I accepted before my departure from England. One was at the house of the Editor of the Daili/ Telegraphy where I met Captain Fred. Burnaby and a few other kind fiiends. Captain Burnaby half promised to meet me at the sources of the Nile. The other was a dinner given by the representative of the New York Herald, at which were present Mr. George Augustus Sala, Mr. W. G. Stiilman, Mr. George W. Smalley, and three or fotir other journalists of note. It was a kindly quiet good- bye, and that was my last of London. On the 15th August 1874, having shipped the Europeans, boats, dogs, and general property of the expedition — which, through the kindness of Mr. Henry Bayley, of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and Mr. William Mackinnon, of the British India Steam Navigation Company, were to be taken to Zanzibar at half-fares — I left England for the east coast of Africa to begin my explorations. a- H ^ 8 TIIUOUQU THE DAltK CONTINENT, EXPLANATION.-Part II. THE SOURCES OP THE NILE. • "Tct still no views have urged my ardour more Timn Nile's remotest fountains to explore; Then pay what source the famous stream supplies, And bids it at revolving periods rise; Show me the head from whence since time begun The long succession of his waves have run ; This let me know, and all my toils shall cease, ' . i The sword be sheathed, and earth be blessed with peace.** Pharsalia (Ccesar lot].). In the fifth century, before the Christian era began, Ilerodotus, the first great African traveller, wrote about the Nile and its sources as follows : — " Respecting the nature of this river, the Nile, I was unable to gain any information, either from the priests or any one else. I was very desirous, however, of learning from them why the Nile, beginning at the summer solstice, fills and overflows for a hundred days ; and when ij; has nearly completed this number of days, falls short in its stream, and retires ; so that it continues low all the winter, until the return of the summer solstice. Of these particulars I could get no informa- tion from the Egyptians, though I inquired whether this river has any peculiar quality that makes it differ in nature from other rivers. Being anxious, then, of knowing what was said about this matter, I made inquiries, and also how it comes to pass that this is the only one of all rivers that does not send forth breezes from its surface. Nevertheless, some of the Greeks, \^| wisdom, have dations in thn are scarcely w sliow what th Etesian winds river, by prevc into the sea. not blown, ye besides, if the rivers that flov necessity be eqi as the Nile ; an less and have rivers in Syria, all affected as t' still more igno; 80 say, is more flowing from th( the ocean flow wny of resolvir specious, but m< Nile flows from river flows from and discharges i it runs from a v< from snow ? Mf of good understai flowing from sno' from the winds, the second is, t always free from of nece'-isity rain it would also rair the inhabitants b kites and swallow FEIWDOTUS ON THE NILE. was lests of the ays; nues imer raa- ther it lOUS, 3r, I this lend le of the Greeks, wishing to be distinguished for their wisdom, have attempted to account for tliese inun- dations in three dltl'erent ways: two of these ways are scarcely worth mentioning, except that I wish to sliow what they are. One of them says that the Etesian winds are the cause of the swelling of the river, by preventing the Nile from discharging itself into the sea. But freqnently the Etesian winds have not blown, yet the Nile produces the same effects ; besides, if the Etesian winds were the cause, all other rivers that flow opposite to the same winds must of necessity be equally affected and in the same manner as the Nile ; and even so much the more, as they are less and have weaker currents ; yet there are many rivers in Syria, and many in Libya, which are not all affected as the Nile is. The second opinion shows still more ignorance than the former, but, if I may 80 say, is more marvellous. It says that the Nile, flowing from the ocean, produces this effect ; and that the ocean flows all round the earth. The third way of resolving this difficulty is by far the most specious, but most untrue. For by saying that the Nile flows from melted snow, it says nothing, for this river flows from Libya through the middle of Ethiopia and discharges itself into Egypt; how therefore, since it runs from a very hot to a colder region, can it flow from snow ? Many reasons will readily occur to men of good understanding, to show the improbability of its flowing from snow. The first and chief proof is derived from the winds, which blow hot from those regions : tlie second is, that the country, destitute of rain, is always free from ice ; but after snow has fallen, it must of nece'jsity rain within five days ; so that if snow fell, it would also rain in these regions. In the third place, the inhabitants become black from the excessive heat: kites and swallows continue there all the year ; and the f 10 THItOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. cranes, to avoid the cold of Scytliia, migrate to these parts as winter quartern: if then ever so little snow fell in this country through which the Nile flows, and from which it derives its source, none of these things would happen, as necessity proves. But the person who speaks about the ocean, since he has referred his account to some obscure fable, produces no conviction at all, for I do not know any river called the Ocean, but suppose that Homer, or some other ancient poet, having invented the name, introduced it into poetry." Captain Burton the learned traveller has some excellent paragraphs in his* Nile Basin,' and remarks on this topic in connection with Ptolemy : — ** That early geographer placed his lake Nilus a little to the south of the Equator (about ten degrees), and 6° E. long, from Alexandria — that is, in 34° or 35° E. long, by our mode of reckoning. He was led into an error in placing these portions of the interior, bearing, as he conceived, from certain points in the east. Thus he places Cape Aromatum (Cape Asser or Cape Guardafui) in 6° N. lat., which we know to be in 11° 48' 50", being thus, say, 6° out of its true place. He places the lake, the source of the western branch of the river, 1° more to the north and 8° more to the west than the one ibr the eastern branch ; subsequent inquiries may show us that these great features of Africa may yet turn out to be substantially correct. " We cannot here enter into any disquisition re- garding the discrepancies that appear amongst the very ancient authors regarding these parts of Africa. We notice only those that are consistent and most valuable, and as bearing upon the priority of discovery and geographical knowledge. The earliest period wo hear of Ethiopia is in tlie capture of the ca[)ital thereof by Moses 140 years before Egypt. Jose]- very strong, si the name was c of his sister [ writers three ( natnely, the Aj River), and the the source of tl ney to the sout Dembea or Tza of Meroe was astronomer Hi{ may be taken a vast ruins in ] Egyptian king the Ethiopian fiom Egypt sel Meroe, that is and the White of the Nubge, ( arms extended general under . took and destr Tirhaka, situate Nile at Mount found. Meroe c mentioned in th( fell under the R( sent a remarkabl with military fo and the countriei Kiver, at tliat ea Assisted by an doubt), they wer BURTON ON TEE NILE BASIN. 11 overy (1 wc lereof by Moses 1400 years before our era, and 90 or 100 years before the departure of the Israelites from Egypt. Josephus calls it Saba, and stntes that it was very strong, situated on the River Astosabos, and that the name was changed to Meroe, by CauibyseS; in honour of his sister Meroe. There were known to ancient writers three great tributaries to the Nile in Ethiopia, namely, the Astaboras (Tacazze), the Astosabos (Blue River), and the Astapus (White River). Herodotus says the source of the Nile, Astosabos, was twenty days' jour- ney to the south of Meroe, which will bring it to Lake Dcmbea or Tzana. According to Ptolemy, the position of Meroe was in 10° 25' N. lat., but the ancient astronomer Ilipparchus has placed it in 1 6° 51', which may be taken as the most correct. Caillaud found the vast ruins in 16° 5G'. Under Psammeticus, the first Egy])tian king tliat reigned after the final expulsion of the Ethiopian kings from Egypt, 240,000 emigrants from Egypt settled in an island south of the island of Meroe, that is beyond Khartoum, between the Blue and the White Rivers, and at eight days' journey east of the Nubae, or Nubatse. Subsequently the Roman arms extended to those parts. Petronius, the Roman, general under Augustus, thirty years before our era, took and destroyed Napata, the ancient capital ot Tirhaka, situated on the great northern bend of the Nile at Mount Barkhall, where vast ruins are still found. Meroe certainly, the capital of Queen Candace, mentioned in the New Testament (Acts viii. 27), also full under the Roman yoke. Nero, early in his reign, sent a remarkable exploring party, under two centurions, with military force, to explore the source of the Nile and the countries to the west of the Astapus or White River, at that early day considered to be the true Nile, AssiKied by an Ethiopian sovereign (Candace, no doubt), they went through the district now known as I 12 THROUQII THE DARK CONTINENT. Upper Nubia, to a distance of 890 Roman miles from Meroe. In the last part of their journey they came to immense marshes, the end of which no one seemed to know, amongst which the channels were so narrow that the light boat or canoe in use was barely sufficient to carry one man across them. Still they continued their course south till they saw the river tumbling down or issuing out between the rocks, when they turned back, carrying with them a map of the regions through which they had passed : for Nero's guidance and information. This, it may be remarked, is exactly the case still. The Dutch ladies told us last year that they found the channels amongst these marshes so thick that the lightest canoe, made of bulrushes, scarcely fit to carry one man, could not find room to pass on them or across them. After this, Pliny, Strabo, and other Roman authors took notice of this portion of Africa, but without giving us anything important or new." I quote from Captain Burton once more certain passages. " Edrisi, who was born in Nubia, but who wrote in Egypt about a.d. 1400, fays, in that part of Ethiopia south and south-west of Nubia is first seen the separation of the two Niles. The one flows from south to north into Egypt, and the other part of the Nile flows from east to west ; and upon that branch of the Nile lie all, or at least the most celebrated kingdoms of the Negroes. * From the Mountains of the Moon,' says Scheadeddin, 'the Egyptian Nile takes its rise. It cuts horizontally the equator in its course north. Many rivers come from this mountain, and imite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, the greatest and most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many rivers derived from this great river water Nubia,' &q. ** From the Arabs we may fairly descend to our own times. The ea great deal of g interior of Afri near the Equato tlie Egyptian \ ation was larg (D'Anville), an( Subsequently Bj disparity in m White Rivers ; south, near to covered with e Mohammed Ali, Egypt, sent an e well provided w able naval office souice, if possibli but were forced 1840, in lat. 3° 2 Avater for their ^ river 1370 feet b clay's work on th river, the depth its temperature, good daily." These quotatic A few of the agency the prob been solved, still becaiEe merged i Sucisty. The ch greater energies, society, the i)osit learning, and \\ attention. In tli^ Uebmann and ErL BURTON ON THE NILE BASIN. 13 own times. The early Portuguese discoverers obtained a great deal of geographical information regarding the interior of Africa, and especially regarding two lakes near the Equator, from one of which, the most northern, the Egyptian Nile was stated to flow. This inform- ation was largely used by the French geographer (D'Anville), and the Dutch geographers of that time. Subsequently Bruce and others told us about the great disparity in magnitude between the Blue and ihe White Rivers ; the latter, they asserted, rose far to the south, near to the Equator, and amongst mountains covered with eternal snow. Twenty-five years ago, Mohammed Ali, the clear-sighted and energetic ruler of Egypt, sent an expedition, consisting of several barques well provided with everything necessary, and under able naval officers, to explore the White Nile to its source, if possible. They did their work so far well, but were forced to turn back on the 26th January 1840, in lat. 3° 22' N., for want of sufficient deptli of water for their vessels. At lat. 3° 30' they found the river 1370 feet broad and say six feet deep. In every clay's work on the voyage they gave the width of the river, the depth of the river, the force of its current, its temperature, and the miles (geographical) made good daily." These quotations bring us down to our own times. A few of the principal characters, through whose agency the problem of the Sources of the Nile has been solved, still live. The old African Association becaice merged in 1831 into the Royal Geographical jSuciaty. The change of title seems to have evoked jgTeatcr energies, and the publications of the new society, the ])osition of its President, .his influence, learning, and tact, soon altracted general public attention. In the midst of this, Messrs. Krapf and Uebmann and Erhardt, missionaries located at Mombasa, % f 14 THltOUGH THE DABK CONTINENT, on the east coast of Afiica, announced that Arab traders and natives acquainted with the interior informed tliem that far inland there was a very large lake, or several lakes, which some spoke of under one collective title. The information thus obtained was illustrateJ by a sketch map by Mr. Erhardt, nnd was published in the * Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society ' in 1856, ** the most striking feature of which was a vast lake of a curious shape, extending through 12° of latitude." LAKE TAXGANIKA. The Royal Geographical Society was induced to despatch an expedition to East Africa for the explora- tion of this interesting inland region, the command of which it entrusted to Lieutenant Richard Francis Burton, and Lieutenant John Ilauning Speke, officers of tlie East Indian Army. Lieutenant Burton was already distinguished as an enterprising traveller by his book, * Pilgrimage to Mekka and Medina.' Speke had, until this time, only a local reputation, but bore the character of being a very promising officer, and an amiable gentleman with a fondness for natural history and botanical studies, besides being an ardent sportsman and an indefatigable pedestiian. Burton and Spekes expedition landed at Zanzibar on the 20tli December 1856. On the 13th February 1858, after a journey of 950 miles, and at a distance of 540 lineal geographical miles from the point of departure on the Indian Ocean, tliey firbt sighted and discovered Lnke Tanganika. How much they ex|)l()red of tlie lake is best illustrated by their mnp, which is appended to this present volume. Speke first crossed Lake Tanganika to the western side to Kasenge', an island, then the district or c in a large strag in the country < On the secoi Burton accomp Uvira, which ig end of the lake. lake, they both was most anxio ploration of the Lieutenant Bun expedition turne on the 20th of Ji "^^''hile Lieute Unyanyembe' to the Lake Reglor see set forth in tenant Speke, of small force of me set out northwa] tour, and on tht the south end of who were with h the Arabs, Ukere At Muanza, in body of the wa a view taken fi the lake. In his reflecti( expanse before h any doubt that tl: interesting river, LAKE VICTORIA. 15 ders med 3, or jtive atei id in ety' as a 2° of I id to I )lora- id ofl •ancis 3icers s an ^e to (lily a ng a with dies, jable iziV>ar •uarv Itance point jilted tlicyl |mnp,| first leugc, an island, then returned by the same route to Kawelc^, the district or quarter occupied at that time by Arabs, in a large straggling village on the shores of the lake, in the country of Ujiji. On the second exploration of the lake. Lieutenant Burton accompanied Lieutenant Speke to a cove m Uvira, which is about thirteen miles from the north end of the lake. Unable to reach the extremity of the lake, they both returned to Ujiji. Lieutenant Speke was most anxious to proceed on a third tour of ex- ploration of the lake, but was overruled by his chief, Lieutenant Burton. On the 2Gth of May 1858, the expedition turned homewards, arriving in Unyanyembe on the 20 th of June. LAKE VICTORIA. While Lieutenant Burton preferred to rest in Unyanyemhe to collect the copious information about tlie Lake Regions f'om Arahs and natives, which we see set forth in a masterly manner in his book, Lieu- tenant Speke, of a more active disposition, mustered a small force of men, and, with his superior's permission, set out northward on July 9, 1858, on an exploring tour, and on the 30th of the same month arrived at the south end of a lake called by the Wanyamwezi who were with him the N'yanza, or the Lake, and by the Arabs, Ukerewe. At Muanza, in Usukuma, he took a survey of the body of the water, such as might he embraced in a view taken from an altitude of 200 feet above the lake. In his reflections on the magnitude of the water expanse befoie him, Speke wrote : — "I no longer felt any doubt that the lake at my feet gave birth to that iuteretjting river, the source of which has been the IG TUROUGE THE DAIiK CONTINENT. subject of 60 much speculation, and the object of so many explorers." * « « « « And ao^ain : " This is a far more extensive lake than the Tanganika ; so broad you could not see across it, and so long- that nobody knew its length." To this magnificent lake Lieutenant Speke, its discoverer, gave the name of Victoria N'yanza. From this short view of the Victoria Lake, Speke returned to Unyanyembe', and announced to Lieutenant Burton that he had discovered tlie source of the White Nile. Lieutenant Burton did not acquiesce in his com- panion's views of the importance of the discovery, and in his * Lake Regions' and 'Nile Basins,' in lectures, speeches, and essays in magazines, and conversations with friends, always vigorously combated the theory. On the 30th February 1859, Bur^jn and Speke's task of exploration, which had occupied twenty-five months, terminated with the arrival of the expedition at the little maritime village of Konduchi, on the Indian Ocean. On opening John ITanning Speke's book, * Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' we are informed on the very first page that his second important expedi- tion into Africa, " which was avowedly for the purpose of establishing the truth of the assertion that the Victoria N'yanza (wliich he discovered on the 30th of July 1858) would eventually prove to be the source of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th of May 1859, tlie first day of his return to England from his last expedition, when, at the invita- tion of Sir Roderick Iinpey Murchison, he called at liis house to show him his map, for tl'O information pf the Royal Geographical Society." Mr. Speke, who was now known as Captain Speke, was entrusted \ expedition whicl determined to se the theories abo^ time by an old b Augustus Grant. The expedition Zanzibar on the ^ January 1861, ii Burton and Spel yembe', having t along the same r In the middle of After a stay full Karagwe', they fol them even a view sight of the great 1 1862. From this] at the court of M caught several dii travelling near its from the Empero long broad inlet, chison Bay, on its On the 7th Julj a north-easterly c Speke states that 21st. From this p the left bank, and of Lake Victoria oj the result and net ind companion in i **The Expeditioi saw that old Fat the Victoria N'yan: |8 the great source VOL. I. LAKE VICTORIA, If il of med )edi- pose the 50tli tbe 3 on to ^ita- |t Ms the )eke, was entrusted with the command of the succeeding expedition which the Royal Geographical Society determined to send out for the purpose of verifying tlie theories fibove stated. He was accompanied this time by an old brother officer in India, Captain James Augustus Grant. The expedition under Speke and Grant set out from Zanzibar on the 25th September 1860. On the 23rd January 1861, it arrived at the house occupied by Burton and Speke's Expedition, in Tabora, Unyan- yembe, having traversed nearly the entire distance along the same route that had been adopted formerly. Ill the middle of May the journey to Karagwe began. After a stay full of interest with Rumanika, king of Karagwe, they followed a route which did not permit them even a view of Lake Victoria, until they caught sight of the great lake near Meruka, on the 31st January 1862. From this point, the expedition, up to its arrival at the court of Mtesa, emperor of Uganda, must have caught several distant views of the lake, though not travelling near its shores. During a little excursion from the Emperor's capital, they also discovered a long broad inlet, which is henceforth known as Mur- jchison Bay, on its northern coast. On the 7th July 1862, the two travellers started in la north-easterly direction, away from the lake, and Speke states that he arrived at Urondogani on the 21st. From this point he marched up the river along he left bank, and reached the Ripon Falls at the outlet f Lake Victoria on the 20th July„ He thus sums up he result and net value of the explorations of himself nd companion in the years 1860-62 : — '*The Expedition had now performed its functions, saw that old Father Nile without any doubt rises in he Victoria N'yanza, and as I had foretold, that Lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled the VOL. I. # it ' ■j-v 18 Tnjiouan the dask continent. M first expounder of our religious belief. . . . The most remote waters, or top-head of the Nile^ is tlie sou. hern end of the lake, situated close on the 3® hit, which gives to the Nile the surprising length in direct n.easurement, rolling over 34 degrees of latitude,' of above 2300 miles, or more than one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now, from the southern point round by the west, to where the great Nile stream rises, there is only one feeder of any impf>rtance, and that is the Kitangule River ; while from the southern- most point round by the east, to the strait, there are no rivers of any importance." .... lie christened the falling effluent where it drops from the level of the lake, and escapes northerly into the Victoria Nile — "Ripon Falls," in honour of the Earl of Ripon, who was President of the Royal Geographical Society when the expedition was or- ganized, and the arm of the Lake from which the Victoria Nile issued — Napoleon Channel, as a token of respect to the Paris Geographical Society, whc had honoured him with a gold medal for the disco veiy of Lake Victoria. Following this paragraph, Captain Speke makes an important statement, to which 1 beg attention: — " One thing seemed at first perplexing, the volume of water in the Kitangule (Alexandra Nile) looked as large as the Nile (Victoria), but then the one was a slow river, and the other swift, and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of their relative values." On the 4th June, Captains Speke and Grant em- barked at Alexandria, Egypt, for England, where they arrived after an absence of 1146 days. Though one might suppose that the explorers had sutlicient grounds for supposing tliat Lake Victoria covered an enormous area, quite as large, or approach- ing to the 29,000 square miles extent Captain Speke 9 boldly sketched talented men to d made. One of tli S[)eke was his q Burton, and he w for very plausible touched upon hen Doctor David L tion, obtained miu Africa from Ara Grand Lake into J the constant asvsau! cartographers, it \v altogether, or becc those which S[)ek that region. It wj exploration of Lai to set at rest, or problems that wj dissatisfaction to America. LAB The next Euroj Tanganika, after Livingstone. He of the plateau wlii the TaFiganika at April 18G7; and traversing nearly the extreme soutl: island which Spekt the east side and n On the 15th Jl when on his way t( the following opi LAKE TA NO A NIK A. m boldly sketched it, there were not wanting many talented men to dispute each point in the assertions he made. One of the boldest who took opposing views to Speke was his quondam companion, Captain R. F. Burton, and he was supported by very many others, for very plausible reasons, which cannot, however, be touched upon here. Doctor David Livingstone, while on his last expedi- tion, obtained much oral information in the interior of Africa from Arab traders, which dissected Speke*s Grand Lake into five; and it really seemed as if, from the constant assaults made upon it by gL'ogra[)hers and cartographers, it would in time be erased from the chart altogether, or become a mere "rush drain," like one of those which S[)eke and Grant found so numerous in that region. It was evident, therefore, that a thorough exploration of Lake Victoria was absolutely necessary to set at rest, once and for ever, one of the great problems that was such a source of trouble and dissatisfaction to the geographers of Europe and America. > . LAKE TANOAXIKA AGAIN. The next European to arrive at the shores of Lake Tanganika, after Burton and Speke, was Dr. David Livingstone. lie first saw it as he stood on the verge of the plateau which rises steeply from the surface of the Tanganika at its south-west corner, on the 2nd April 18G7; and on the 14th March 18G9, and after tni versing nearly the whole of the western shore from the extreme south end of the lake to Kasenge, the island which Speke visited in 1858, he crossed over to the east side and reached Ujiji. On the 15th July 18G9, after camping at Kasenge, when on his way to Manyema, he writes in his journal the following opinion of Lake Tanganika : — " Tan- * 2 20 TllltOUOn THE BARK CONTINENT. ganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes o and the north-west, from Ubwari's north end aa far as Uvira. In February 1874, Lieutenant Verney Lovett Cameron, R.N., arrived at the same villnge of Ujiji which had been seen by Burton and Speke in 1858, and which was known as the place wliere I discovered Livingstone in 1872. lie had traversed a route rendered famih'ar to thousands of the readers of the * Lake Regions of Central Africa,' the * Journal ot the Discovery of tlie Nile,* and * How I found Livingstone,' through a country carefully mapped, surveyed and described. But the land that lay before him westerly had only been begun by Livingstone, and there were great and important fields of exploration beyond the farthest point he had reached. Jjieutenant Cameron procured two canoes, turned south, and coasted along the eastern shore of the Tanganika, and when near the southern end of the Lake, crossed it, turned up north along the western shore, and discovered a narrow channel, between two spits of pure white sand. Entering this channel, the Lukuga creek, he traced it until farther progress was stopped by an immovable and impenetrable barrier of papyrus. This channel, Lieutenant Cameron wrote, was the outlet of Lake Tanganika. Satisfied with his discovery, he withdrew from the channel, pursued hio course along the west coast as far as Kasenge Island, the camping place of both Speke and Living- stone, and returned direct to Ujiji without making further effort. Lake Tanganika, as will be seen, upon Lieutenant Cameron's departure, had its entire coast-line described, except the extreme south end, the mouth of the Lufuvu and that portion of coast lying between Kasenge Island and the northern point of Ubwari, about 140 miles in extent. LI\ What we kn( v/ith Liviugstoi Ujiji in 18()9, i in 18G7, at the Clarendon. Briefly, this Zanzibar, the January I8Gi). II. M.S. Penguin after invoking t meditated interi landing at Miki south-westerly c Nyassa on the I On the 16th southerly strean crossing the mi flowing east tc northern slope v new river thus :• forest on the n( glade and miles oozes full and Rivulets rush v< flood we can gi are torrents tha westwards to the Eight days la main river — the clear water-banks abundant animal it flowed westwa] TUE LIVINGSTONE RIVER, LIVINGSTONES GREAT RIVER. "\Vhat we knew distinctly of this j^reat river bep^an v/itli Livingstone's last journey, when he wrote from Ujiji in 18(jn, repeatinp^ what he had already written in 18 07, at the town of Cazembe, in a despatch to Lord Clarendon. Briefly, this last journey began, let us say, at Zanzibar, the date of his arrival being the 28th January 18Gi). On the 10th March he sailed in II.M.S. Penguin for the mouth of the Ilovuma river, after invoking the blessing of the Most High upon his meditated intercourse with the heathen. Effecting a landing at Mikindini Bay, he directed his course in a south-westerly direction, arriving within view of Lake Nyassa on the 13th September 1866. On the 16th January 1867, he reached the most southerly streams emptying into the Chambezi, pfter crossing the mountains which separate tie streams flowing east to the Loangwa. He describes the northern slope which gives birth to the affluents of the new river thus : — " It is needless to repeat that it is all forest on the northern slopes of the mountains — open glade and miles of forest ; ground at present all sloppy, oozes full and overflowing, feet constantly wet. Rivulets rush with clear water; though they are in flood we can guess which are perennial and which are torrents that dry up ; they flow northwards and westwards to the Chambezi." Eight days later, in S. lat. 10° 34', he reached the main river — the Chambezi — a stream " flooded with clear water-banks not more than 40 yards apart, showing abundant animal life in its waters and on its banks as it flowed westwards." Just at the point Livingstone flrst 24 TniiOdOn THE DARK CONTINENT. saw the Cliambezi, numerous streams are gathered from all points — northerly, easterly, and southerly, from the westerly slope of the uplands of Mambwe into the main river, which presently becomes a formidable river, and which subsequent explorations proved to enter Lake Bemba on its eastern side. On the 8th November 1567, the traveller makes a very comprehensive statement. IL is the evening of bis arrival at Lake Mweru or Moero. '* Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of moun- tains on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope gradiiilly down to the water; outside of these banks stands a thick belt of tropical vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The country called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of dark mountains ; another range of less height, but more broken, stands along the eastern shore." " The northern shore has a fine sweep, like an unbent bow, and round the western end flows the water that makes the river Lualaba, which, before it enters Mweru, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most intelligent report speak true) is the Chambezi before it enters Lake Bemba or Bangweolo." On page 201, vol. i., of ' Livingstone's Last Journals,* he sums up very succinctly what knowledge he has gained of the country which was the scene of his exploration 18GG-G7. ** First of all the Chambezi runs in the country of Mambwe N.E. of Molemba. It then flows S.\y. and W. till it reaches 11° S. Lat. and Long. 29° E., where it forms Lake Bemba or Bangweolo. Emerging thence, it assumes the new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Mweru. On going out of this lake it is known by the name Lualaba as it flows N.W. in Kua to form another lake with many islands r called Ulenge or not positive as another lake be^ On the 18th or Bangweolo w On page 59, v an explanation those hypotheses made public by on the subject o " Bambarre, 2r dreams is that th up into Lower E and founding a ' Meroe,' may ha * " I dream of d Meroe, and if ar does remain, I ] sacred chronolo<2r^ not grudge the t have endured — 1 discipline." The old explo] of most noble ma travels on and on of the problem ^ depot Nyangwe, 4° S. lat. and a leaves the great ] Livingstone i retracing his ste Lake Tanganika yembe, directed h Bemba, where he May 1873. THE LIVINGSTONE RIVER. 25 called Ulenge or Urenge. Beyond this, information is not positive as to whether it enters Tanganika, or another lake beyond that." On the 18th July 1868, the discovery of Lake Bemba or Bangweolo was mac'e by Dr. Livingstone. On page 59, vol. ii., ' Last Journals,' we think we have an explanation of the causes which led him to form those hypotheses and theories which he subsequently made public by his letters, or elaborated in his journals, on the subject of the Nile Sources. " Bambarre, 25th August 1870. — One of my waking dreams is that the legendary tales about Moses coming up into Lower Ethiopia, with Merr his foster mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour ' Meroe,' may have a substratum of fact." * * • -»-—,«'■ .^ " I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would not grudge the toil and hardship, hunger and pain, I have endured — the irritable ulcers would only be discipline." The old explorer, a grand spectacle and a specim^ of most noble manhood, in these latter days of his life, travels on and on, but never reaches nearer the solution of the problem which puzzles his soul than the Arab depot Nyangwe, which is situate a few miles south of 4° S. lat. and a little east of 26° E. long, where he leaves the great river still flowing north. Livingstone never returned to tliis point, but retracing his steps to Ujiji, thence to the north end of Lake Tanganika and back again to Ujiji and Unyan- yembe, directed his course to the southern shore of Lake Bemba, where he died of dysentery in the beginning of May 1873. 26 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. In the month August 1874, Lieutenant Cameron, whom we left at Ujiji after the delineation of that part of Lake Tanganika south of Ujiji, after traversing Livingstone's route to Kasongo*8, Manyema, and travelling by canoe about thirty-five miles, reaches Nyangwe, his predecessor's farthest point. Though he does not attempt to resolve this problem, or penetrate the region north of Nyangwe, Lieutenant Cameron ventures upon the following hypothesis : — "This great stream must be one of the head-waters of the Kongo, for where else could that giant amongst rivers, second only to the Amazon in its volume, obtain the 2,000,000 cubic feet of water which it unceasingly pours each second into the Atlantic ? The large affluents from the north would explain the comparatively small rise of the Kongo at the coast; for since its enormous basin extends to both sides of the equator, some portion of it is always under the zone of rains, and therefore the supply to the main stream is nearly the same at all times, instead of varying as is the case with tropical rivers, whose basins lie completely on one side of the equator." In this map Lieutenant Cameron illustrates his hypothesis, by causing Living- stone's great river to flow soon after leaving Nyangwe straight westward, the highest part of which is only 3° 30' S. lat. At Nyangwe', Lieutenant Cameron crossed the river, proceeded south with some Arab traders a few days' journey, then, accompanied by guides, travelled still south to Juma Merikani's or Kasongo's, thence, after a stay of nearly nine months, accompanied by some Por- tuguese traders, he proceeded to Benguella, a small port belonging to the Portuguese government on the Atlantic Ocean, having crossed Africa from east to west south of S. lat. 4°. The above is a brief sketch, which, with the aid of T the small maps i illustrates the sc my predecessors, problems were sc of Burton and S Livinsrstone were lake Muta N'zige', Beatrice Gulf, by from sea to sea, davs; the results in these two vol Continent ; the Si Lakes of Africa, Atlantic Ocean* TUE WORK BEFORE ME. 27 the small maps attached to this volume, explains and illustrates the several geographical problems left by my predecessors. I now propose to describe how these problems were solved, and the incomplete discoveries of Burton and Speke, Speke and Grant, and Doctor Livinjrstone were finished, and how we sighted the lake Muta N'zige, by its broad arm, which I have called Beatrice Gulf, by a comprehensive exploration, lasting, from sea to sen, two years eight months and twenty days ; the results of which are to be found embodied in these two volumes, entitled : ' Through the Dark Continent ; the Sources of tlie Nile^ around the Great Lakes of Africa^ and down t/ie " Livingstone " to the Atlantic Ocean,* mg ! I V VIEW OF A PORTION OF TIIR SEA-FROKT OP ZANZIBAR, FROM THE WATEB BATTERY TO SHANGANI POINT, (From a photofjrajjh by Mr. Buchanan, of Natal.) CHAPTER I. Arrival at Zanzibar Island — Life at Zanzibar — Tlic town of Zanzibar, its roadstead and buildings — The One Cocoa-nnt trco and the rod eliffs — Selection and purchase of goods for the journey — Residcnw! of Prince Barghasli — Busy mornings — Pleasant rides and quiet evenings. 1874. Twenty-eight months had elapsed between my de- zlnziblr P^"^^*"^® ^^^^^ Zanzibar after the discovery of Livingstone and my re-arrival on that island, September 21, 1874. The well-remembered undulating ridges, and the gentle slopes clad with palms and mango trees bathed in warm vapour, seemed in that tranquil drowsy state which at a,ll times any portion of tropical Africu "presents at first appearance. A pale blue sky covered ^ the hazy land and sleeping sea as we steamed through AEBIl the strait that se Every stranger, his pleasure. The ridges, the calm semi-mysterious evoke his admir has sailed throng grim, frowning n and on the other the Arab Peninf thirsty volcanic bluffs of Guardafi But a great cha close to the deep he views nature ] delightful freshnej coming wanderer, blue of the ocean, ; bers the unconqu heights he last sj spending to his hf hi^ verdant, pre raise their featht globes of dark gr impenetrable shac mon, and spreadii the landscape. J massive crowns < the trees and in and plants cover verdure. There view before him, j special feature, be( softness by the exl bosom of the ish caught and exercis ARBIVAL AT ZANZIBAR ISLAND. 29 the strait that separates Zanzibar from tlie continent. 1874, Every stranger, at first view of the shores, proclaims ^^ ' his pleasure. The gorgeous verdure, the distant purple ridges, the calm sea, the light gauzy atmosphere, the semi-mysterious silence which pervades all nature, evoke his admiration. For it is probable that he has sailed through the stifling Arabian Sea, with the grim, frowning mountains of Nubia on the one hand, and on the other the drear, ochreous-coloured ridges of the Arab Peninsula ; and perhaps the aspect of the ^ . ^ thirsty volcanic rocks of Aden and the dry brown hluffs of Guardalui is still fresh in his memorv. But a great change has taken place. As he passes close to the deeply verdant shores of Zanzibar Island, he views nature robed in the greenest verdure, with a delightful freshness of leaf, exhaling fragrance to the in- coming wanderer. He is wearied with the natural deep- blue of the ocean, and eager for any change. He remem- bers the unconquerable aridity and the dry bleached heights he last saw, and, lo ! what a change ! Re- sponding to his half formed wish, the earth rises before hi^ verdant, prolific, bursting with fatness. Palms raise their feathery heads and mangoes their great globes of dark green foliage ; banana plantations with impenetrable shade, groves of orange, fragrant cinna- mon, and spreading bushy clove, diversify and enrich the landscape. Jack-fruit trees loom up with great massive crowns of leaf and branch, while between the trees and in every open space succulent grasses ' and plants cover the soil with a thick garment of verdure. There is nothing grand or sublime in the view before him, and his gaze is not attracted to any special feature, because all is toned down to a uniform softness by the exhalation rising from the warm heaving bosom of the island. His imagination is therefore caught and exercised, his mind loses its restless activity, % 30 TEROUOn TEE DARE CONTINENT. 1874. Sept. 21, Zanzibar. and reposes under tlie influence of the eternal summer atmosphere. Presently on the horizon there rise the thin upright shadows of ships* masts, and to the left begins to glimmer a pale white mass which, we are told, is the capital of the island of Zanzibar. Still steaming southward, we come within rifle-shot of the low green si lores, and now begin to be able to define the capital. It consists of a number of square massive structures, with little variety of height and all whitewashed, standing on a point of low land, separated by a broad margin of sand beach from the sea, with a bay curving, gently from the point, inwards to the left towards us, Withir two hours from the time we first caught siglit of the town, we have dropped anchor about 700 yards from the beach. The arrival of tlie British India Company's steamer causes a sensation. It is the monthly ** mail " from Aden and Europe ! A number of boats break away from the beach and come towards the vessel. Europeans sit at tlie stern, the rowers are white-shirted Wangwana* with red caps. The former are anxious to hear the news, to get newspapers and letters, and to receive the small parcels sent by friendly hands " per favour of captain," The stranger, of course, is intensely interested in this life existing near the African Equator, now first revealed to him, and all that he sees and hears of figures and faces and sounds is being freshly impressed on his memory. Figures and faces are picturesque enough. Happy, pleased-looking men of black, yellow, or tawny colour, with long white cotton shirts, move about with quick, active motion, and cry out, regardless of order, to their friends or mates in the Swahili or Arabic language, and tlieir friends or mates respond with equally loud voice and lively gesture, until, with fresh * Wangwana (freed negroes). arrivals, there ap English, French, Hindi, and, perhf In the midst of be rowed to the 1 Sparhawk, of the massive-looking welcomed with a my first visit, wh I arrived at Zan: Livingstone. With Mr. Spar comfortably my tl and Edward Pl': five dogs, and ii Wave, bought fc ArnolJ, the gig, i stores I had brou^ Life at Zanzil exph)rer. Time daylight must be € of the variolis k demand by the dii whose countries half naked porte: bleached cottons, chiefs and red ca and amber-colour oval, and coils uj have to be ir numbered separa bales, sacks, or pj character and vali cast-off wrapping! of rejected paper, sawdust and othe LIFE AT ZANZIBAR. 31 arrivals, there appears to be a Babel created, wherein English, French, Swahili, and Arabic accents mix with Ilindi, and, perhaps, Persian. In the midst of such a scene I stepped into a boat to be rowed to the house of my old friend, Mr. Augustus Sparhawk, of the Bertram Agency. At this low-built, massive-looking house near Shangaui Point, I was welcomed with all the friendliness and hospitality of my first visit, when, three years and a half previously, I arrived at Zanzibar to set out for the discovery of Livingstone. With Mr. Sparhawk's aid I soon succeeded in housing comfortably my three young Englishmen, Francis John and Edward Fccock and Frederick Barker, and my five dogs, and ii stowing safely on shore the yawl Wave, bought for me at Yarmouth by Mr. Edwin Arnold, the gig, and the tons of goods, provisions, and stores I bad brought. Life at Zanzibar is a busy one to the intending explorer. Time flies rapidly, and each moment of daylight must be employed in the selection and purchase of the various kinds of cloth, beads, and wire, in demand by the different tribes of the mainland through whose countries he purposes journeying. Strong, half naked porters come in with great bales of un- bleached cottons, striped and coloured fabrics, handker- chiefs and red caps, bags of blue, green, red, white and amber-coloured beads small and large, round and oval, and coils upon coils of thick brass wire. These have to be inspected, assorted, arranged, and numbered separately, have to be packed in portable bales, sacks, or packages, or boxed according to their character and value. The house-floors are littered with cast-off wrappings and covers, box-lids, and a medley of rejected paper, cloth, zinc covers and broken boards, sawdust and other debris. Porters and servants and 1874. Sept. 21. Zanzibar. t 82 Tnnouon the dark continent. TEE RE8L 1874. masters, employes and employers, pass backwards and i.t. 21. fQj.^r^j.(^g^ ^Q j^j^(j fj.(^^ amid all this litter, roll bales over, or tumble about boxes ; and a rending of cloth or paper, clattering of hammers, demands for the marking pots, or the number of bale and box, with quick, hurried breathing and shouting, are heard from early morning until night. Towards evening, after such a glaring day of glaring heat and busy toil, comes weariness : the arm-chair is sought, and the pi^^e or cigar with a cup of tea rounds off the eventful hours. Or, as sometimes the case would be, we would strike work early, and after a wholesome dinner at 4.30 p.m. would saddle our horses and ride out into the interior of the island, returning during the short twilight. Or we would take the well-known path to Mnazi-Moya — the One Cocoa-nut Tree, where it stands weird and sentinel-like over humble tombs on the crest of an ancient beach behind Shangani Point. Or, as the last and only resource left to a contemplative and studious mind, we would take our easy-chairs on the flat roof, where the cowhides of the merchant are poisoned and dried, and, with our feet elevated above our heads, watch the night coming. If we take our ride, in a few minutes we may note, at the pleasantest hour, those local features which, with the thermometer at 95° Fahr., might have been a danger- ous pleasure, or, at any rate, disagreeable. Through a narrow, crooked, plastered lane, our horses' feet clatter- ing noisily as we go, we ride by the tall, whitewashed, massive houses, which rise to two and three stories above our heads. The residences of the European merchants and the officials here stand side by side, and at the tall doorway of each sits the porter — as comfortable as his circumstances will permit. As we pass on, we get short views of the bay, and then TEE BE8IDENGE OF FBINCE BABGEASU. 33 plunge again into the lane until we come in view of 1874. the worm-eaten old fort, crumbling fast into disuse and y^^*"^^* demolition. Years ago, behind it, I saw a market where some slaves were being sold. Happily there is no such market now. We presently catch sight, on our right, of the entrance to the fort at which sit on guard, a few lazy Baluchis and dingy-looking Arabs. On our left is the saluting battery, which does frequent service for the ignition of much powder, an antique mode of exchanging compliments with ships of war, and of paying respect to government officials. The customs sheds are close by, and directly in front of us rises the lofty house and harem of Prince Barghash. It is a respectable-looking building of the Arab architecture which finds favour at Muscat, three stories high and whitewashed — as all houses here apperr to be. It is connected by a covered gangway, about 30 feet above our heads, with a large house on the opposite side of the lane, and possesses an ambitious doorway raised 3 feet above the street, and reached by four or five broad and circular steps. Within the lower hall are some soldiers of the same pattern as those at the fort, armed with the Henry- Martini rifle, or match]* icy^ sword, and targe. A very short time takes us into a still narrower lane, where the whitewash is not so white as at Shangani, the European quarter. We are in the neighbourhood of Melindi now, where the European who has not been able to locate himself at Shangani is obliged to put up with neigh'u'. s of East Indian race or Arabs. Past and beyond Melinui is a medley of tall white houses and low sheds, where wealth and squalor jostle side by side, and then we find ourselves at the bridge over the inlet of Malagash, which extends from the bay up to Mnazi-Moya, or thf; One Cocoa-nut, behind Shangani. The banks on either side are in view as we pass over VOL. I. D . 'M 84 TllllOVOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. the bridge, and wc note a dense mass of sbeds and Sept. 21. pj^Qj. buildings, amid hills of garbage and heaps of refuse, and 1 umbers of half naked negroes, or people in white clothes, giving the whole an appearance somewhat re- sembling the more sordid village of Boulak, near Cairo. Having crossed the bridge from Melindi, we are in what is very appropriately termed Ngambu, or "t'other side." The street is wide, but the quarter is more squalid. It is here we find the Wangwana, or Freedmeii, of Zanzibar, whose services the explorer will require as escort on the continent. Here they live very happily with the well-to-do Coast man, or Mswahili, poor Banyans, Hindis, Persians, Arabs, and Baluchis, respectable slave artisans, and tradesmen. When tlie people have donned their holiday attire, Ngambu becomes picturesque, even gay, and yields itself up to a wild, frolicsome abandon of mirth. On working days, though the colours are still varied, and give relief to the clay walls and withered palm-frond roofs, this poor man's district has a dingy hue, which black faces and semi-naked bodies seem to deepen. However, the quarter is only a mile and a half long, and, quicken- ing our paces, we soon have before us detached houses and huts, clusters of cocoa-nut palms and ancient mango trees crowned with enormous dark green domes of foli- age. For about three miles one can enjoy a gallop along an ochreous-coloured road of respectable width, bordered with hedges. Behind the hedges grow the sugar-cane, banana, palm, orange, clove, cinnamon, and jack-fruit trees, cassava, castor-oil, diversified with patches of millet, Indian corn, sweet potatoes, and egg-plant, and almost every vegetable of tropic growth. The fields gently undulating, display the variety of their vegeta tion, on which the lights and shadows play, deepening or paling as the setting sun clouds or reveals tlie charms of the verdure. Tin Finally arrivi liave a most bea' of Zanzibar, and with the landsi away gradually already mention mass themselves however, we can and hut. What it is Nature's o\ but planted a rot lessly. Nature h the sapling, until above another in lias given to the "^ of colour which s The walk to M moralize, and m him, and from th< moment he retui upon mortality. three lanes, he c which the wild and through the { and moss-touchec acreage allotted t the Prince of Zr form a garden, -w wall. Here a g thigh bone or s contents attract memorial this old dead, and unless for the reclamatio officials urge it oi for a long period ; Hi THE ROADSTEAD AND TOWN. 35 Finally arriving upon tlie crest of Wirezu hill, we have a most beautiful view of the roadstead and town of Zanzibar, and, as we turn to regard it, are struck with the landscape lying at our feet. Sloping away gradually towards the town, the tropical trees already mentioned seem, in the bird's-eye view, to mass themselves into a thin forest, out of which, however, we can pick out clearly the details of tree and hut. Whatever of beauty may be in the scene, it is Nature's own, for man has done little ; he has but planted a root, or a seed, or a tender sapling care- lessly. Nature has nourished the root and the seed and the sapling, until they became sturdy giants, rising one above another in hillocks of dark green verdure, and has given to the whole that wonderful depth and variety of colour which she only exhibits in the Tropics. The walk to Mnazi-Moya will compel the traveller to moralize, and meditate pensively. Decay speaks to him, and from the moment he leaves the house to the moment he returns, his mind is constantly dwelling upon mortality. For, after lounging through two or three lanes, he comes to a populous graveyard, over which the wild grass has obtained supreme control, and through the stalks of which show white the fading and moss-touched headstones. Across the extensive acreage allotted to the victims of the sad cholera years, the Prince of Zanzibar has ruthlessly cut his way to form a garden, which he has surrounded with a high wall. Here a grinning skull and there a bleached thigh bone or sunken grave exposing its ghastly contents attract one's attention. From time im- memorial this old beach has been the depository of the dead, and unless the Prince prosecutes his good work for the reclamation of this golgotha (and the European officials urge it on him), the custom may be continued for a long period yet. . • D 2 1874. Sept. 'Jl. Zauzilar, ■I i \ no TIlROUail THE DAltK CONTINENT. 1874. Beyond this cemetery is to be seen the niiuldy head of Sept. 21. ^ahicrash inlet, between which and tlie sea south of ".azi ar. g|^j^j^gj^j^| tliero lios ouly this antique sand bar, about two hundred yards in breadth. On the crest of the sand bar stands the One Cocoa-nut Palm which has given its name to this locality. Sometimes this spot is also known as the *' fiddler's" grave. It is the breathi ig-place of the hard-worked and jaded European, and here, seated on one of the plastered tombs near the UED eUFFS BEUIXD UN1VKUSIT1E8 MISSION. base of the One Cocoa-nut Palm, with only a furtive look now and then at the "sleep and a forgetting" which those humble white structures represent, he may take his fill of ocean and watch the sun go down to his daily rest. Beyond Mnazi-Moya is Mbwenni, the Universities Mission, and close behind are some peculiar red cliffs, which are worth seeing. From the roof of the house, if we take the " last resource " already mentioned, we have a view of the road- ■^^- ■ stead and baj; anchor two or hunt after cont orders of thei high seas. TV man's Island, Prince's fleet Nearer in-shon lighters, steam is the famous mere matter of roadstead and h From our ei massive building Mission, and nc Acting British acquaintance I Magdala in 18 extremity of S houses which fr gentle sweep, ah on the other side During the di alive with the n and cinnamon bi hides, to be ship water's edge, wit boatmen dischnr^ In the evening : forms of workm preparing to bat liides off their be merchants have o: to chat sociably lias come. Boats wiilors returninjr TEE HARBOUR AND BEACH. 8? stead and bay. of Zanzibar. Generally there ride at 1374. anchor two or three British ships of war just in from a ^*'p*; ^^* hunt after contumacious Arabs, who persist, against the orders of their prince, in transporting slaves on the high seas. There is a vessel moored closer to French- man's Island, its "broken back" a memento of tlie Prince's fleet shattered by the hurricane of 1872. Nearer in-shore float a number of Arab dhows, boats, lighters, steam launches, and two steamers, one of which is the famous Deerhound. One day I counted, as a mere matter of curiosity, the great and small vessels in roadstead and harbour, and found that there were 135. From our easy-chairs on the roof we can see the massive building occupied formerly by the Universities Mission, and now the residence of Captain Prideaux, Acting British Consul and Political Resident, whose acquaintance I first made soon after his release from Magdala in 1868. This building stands upon the extremity of Shangani Point, and the first line of houses which fronts the beach extends northerly in a gentle sweep, almost up to Livingstone's old residence on the other side of Malagash inlet. During the day the beach throughout its length is alive with the moving figures of hamals, bearing clove and cinnamon bags, ivory, copal and other gums, and hides, to be shipped in the lighters waiting along the water's edge, with sailors from the shipping, and black boatmen dischnrging the various imports on the sand. In the evening the beach is crowded with the naked forms of workmen and boys from the "go-downs,'* preparing to bathe and wash the dust of copal and hides oif their bodies in the surf. Some of the Arab merchants have ordered chairs on the piers,, or bunders, to chat sociably until the sun sets, and prayer-time has come. Boats hurry by with their masters and siiilors returning to their respective vessels. Dhows 38 TlIROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874, Si'pt. 21. Ziiazibar. move sliiggislily past, lioisling as tliej^ go the creaking yards of tlieir Intcen sails, bound for tlie mainland ports. Zanzibar canoes and "matepes" are arriving with wood and produce, and others of the same native form and make are squaring their mat sails, outward bound. Sunset approaches, and after sunset silence follows soon. For as there are no wheeled carriages with the eternal rumble of their traffic in Zanzibar, with the early evening, comes early peace and rest. The intending explorer, however, bound lor that dark edge of the continent which he can just see lying low along the west as he looks from Zanzibar has thoughts at tliis hour which the resident cannot share. As little as his eyes can pierce and define the details in that gloomy streak on the horizon, so little can he tell whether weal or woe lies before him. The whole is buried in mystery, over which he ponders, certain of nothing but tlie uncertainty of life. Yet will he learn to sketch out a comparison between what he sees at sunset and his own future. Dark, indeed, is the gloom of the fast-coming night over the continent, but does ho not see that there are still bright flushes of colour, and rosy bars, and crimson tints, amidst what otherwise would be universal blackness ? And may he not tlierefore say — " As those colours now brighten the darkening west, so my hopes brighten my dark future"? r Jif THE BRITISH CONSULATE AT ZANZIBAR. CHAPTER II. Scyyid Bargliasli — Ilis prohibition of slavery, character and reforms — Treaty with British Government by Sir Bartle Frere — Tramways the need of Africa — Arabs in tlie interior — Arabs in Zanzibar — Mtnma or M,t,'wana? — Tlio Wangwana, their vices and virtues — A Mgwana's higlicst amltition — The Wanyamwezi " the coming race."' The foot-note at tlie bottom of this pnffewlll explain all ''''^^• 1 o 1 October. that need be known by the general reader in connection Zanzibar, witli tlie geography of the island of Zanzibar.* Any student who w^ishes to make the island a special study will find books dealing most minutely with the subject at all great libraries. Withont venturing, tliereforo, into more details than I have already given ill 'How I found Livingstone,' I shall devote this » "Tlio fovt of Zanzibar is in S. lat. G° 0' 3G" and E. long. 30^ 11' 33"." -£ast African J'ilut, 40 Tniiouan the dark continent. 1874. chapter to the Sultan of Zanzibar — Barghash bin October, gg^yj(j — ^Q Arabs, the Wangwana, and the Wanya- rawezi, with whose aid the objects of the Anglo- American Expedition were attained. It is impossible not to feel a kindly interest in Prince Barghash, and to wish him complete success in the reforms he is now striving to bring about in his country. Here we see an Arab prince, educated in the strictest school of Islam, and accustomed to regard the black natives of Africa as the lawful prey of conquest or lust, and fair ob- jects of barter, suddenly turning round at the re- quest of European philanthropists and becoming one of the most active opponents of the slave-trade — and the spectacle must necessarily create for him many well- wishers and friends. Though Prince Barghash has attributed +o myself the visit of those ships of war under Admiral Gumming, all who remember that period, and arc able, therefore, BEYYID HARGHASrr. CB ABACI to trace events, wi] decided steps taken suppression of the Africa were due constant appeals. member, were car sensation caused h British Governmer Enchantress^ as a i elude a treaty wit Prince's reluctance under Admiral Cur Zanzibar, and by rather quiet demons was at last obtainei remained to be dom into full effect, anc of discontent or sull have been created l I was happy to se reception he enjoyec a difference in the 1874 and of 1877, greater knowledge 1 the power which h must look upon bin sincere ally, and a! for the suppression ( The philanthropi signal success with 1 should attempt some ^e considered as j territories include, 1 ^lafia islands, nearl} probably over an a: a population of hi Zanzibar have enric CHAEACTER OF PRINCE BARGUASn. 41 to trace events, will not fail to perceive that the first i874. decided steps taken by the British Government for the ^ '^ ° "" *■ *' Zanzibar. suppression of the slave-trade on the east coast of Africa were due to the influence of Livingstone's constant appeals. Some of his letters, they will re- member, were carried by me to England, and the sensation caused by them was such as to compel the British Government to send Sir Bartle Frere in the Enchantress, as a special envoy to Zanzibar, to con- clude a treaty with Prince Barghash. When the Prince's reluctance to sign became known, the fleet under Admiral Gumming made its appearance before Zanzibar, and by a process of gentle coercion, or rather quiet demonstration, the signature of the Prince was at last obtained. One thing more, however, still remained to be done before the treaty could be carried into full effect, and that was to eradicate any feeling of discontent or sullenness from his mind which might have been created by the exhibition of force, and this, I was happy to see, was effected by the hospitable reception he enjoyed in England in 1875. There was a difference in the manner and tone of the Sultan of 1874 and of 1877, that I can only attribute to the greater knowledge he had gained of the grandeur of the power which he had so nearly provoked. We must look upon him now as a friendly and, I believe, sincere ally, and as a man willing to do his utmost for the suppression of the slave-trade. The philanthropist having at last obtained such signal success with the Prince, it is time the merchant should attempt something with him. The Prince must W considered as an independent sovereign. His territories include, besides the Zanzibar, Pemba, and Mafia islands, nearly 1000 miles of coast, and extend probably over an area of 20,000 square miles, with a population of half a million. The products of Zanzibar have enriched many Europeans who traded 42 TUROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. TRAMWA] 1874. October. Zanzibar. ! in them. Cloves, cinnamon, tortoise-shell, pepper, copal gum, ivory, orchilla weed, india-rubber, and hides have been exported for years ; but this cata- logue does not indicate a tithe of what might be pro- duced by the judicious investment of capital. Those intending to engage in commercial enterprises would do well to study works on Mauritius, Natal, and the Portuguese territories, if they wish to understand what these fine, fertile lands are capable of. The cocoa-nut palm flourishes at Zanzibar and on the mainland, the oil palm thrives luxuriantly in Pemba, and sugar-cane will grow everywhere. Caoutchouc remains unde- veloped in the maritime belts of woodland, and the acacia forests, with their wealth of gums, are nearly untouched. Rice is sown on the Rufiji banks, and yields abundantly ; cotton would thrive in any of the rich river bottoms ; and then there are, besides, the grains, millet, Indian corn, and many others, the cultivation of which, though only in a languid way, the natives understand. The cattle, coffee, and goats of the interior await also the energetic man of capital and the com- mercial genius. First, however, the capitalist must find means of carriage, otherwise he will never conquer African diffi- culties. Cutting roads through jimgles, and Ciiiploying waggons, are mere temporary conveniences, requiring great outlay, patience, and constant reinforcement of work and energies. Almost as fast as the land is cleared, it is covered again — so prolific is the soil — with fall wild grasses of the thickness of cane, and one season is sufficient to undo the work of months of the pioneer. Cattle die, tormented out of life by the flies or poisoned by the rank grasses ; natives perish from want of proper nourishment, and, while suffering from fatigue and del)ility, are subject to many fatal diseases. A tramway is the one thing that is needed for Africii. All other benefits that can be conferred by contact with TliAMWAYS ITIE NEED OF AFRICA. 43 civilization will follow in the wake of the tramway, which will be an iron bond, never to be again broken, between Africa and the more favoured continents. However energetic the small merchant may be, he can effect nothing permanent for the good of a country that has neither roads nor navigable rivers, whose climate is alike fatal to the starved hamal as it is to the beast of burthen. The maritime belt must first be crossed by an iron road, and another must tap the very centre of the rice-fields of the Rufiji valley, in order to insure cheap, nutritious food in abundance. To a company, however, which can raise the sura required to construct a tramway, East Africa holds out special advantages. The Sultan himself offers a handsome sum, five lakhs of dollars or, roughly, £100,000, and there are rich Hindis at Zanzibar who, no doubt, would invest large sums, and thus the company would become tho principal merchants along the line. The Sultan has also poor subjects enough who would be only too glad of the opportunities thus afforded to work for reasonable pay, so that very little fear need be entertained of lack of labour. Besides, there are the natives of the interior who, after two or three lold examples, would soon be induced to apply for employment along the line. Those whom we call the Arabs of Zanzibar are either natives of Muscat who have immigrated thither to seek their fortunes, or descendants of the conquerors of the Portuguese. As the present Sultan calls himself Barghash the son of Say id, the son of Sultan, the son of Ilamed, so all Arabs, from the highest. to the lowest of liis subjects, are known by their proper names — Ahmed, per Hof Khamis, or Abdullah, as being the sons of Mussoud, nuBof Mustapha, or of Mohammed. Some of them boast of unusually long pedigrees, and one or two I am acquainted with proclaimed themselves of purer and led 1874. October. Zanzibar. dth more aristocratic descent than even the Sultan. ir ■• I 44 THROUQE TEE DARK CONTINENf. 1874. October. Zanzibar. The Arab conquerors who accompanied Seyyid Sultan, tlie grandfather of the present Seyyid Barghasli, took unto themselves, after the custom of polygamists, wives of their own race according to their means, and almost all of them purchased negro concubines, the result of which we trace to-day in the various crka- •plexions of those who call themselves Arabs. By this process of risr .^jnation the Arabs of the latest migration are ai -.utj ^apidly losing their rich colour and fine complex i3, ^^\\q the descendants of the Arabs of the first migration are now deteriorated so much that on the coast they can scarcely be distinguished from the aborigines. While many of the descendants of the old settlers who came in with Seyyid Sultan, still cling to their homesteads, farms, and plantations, and acquire sufficient competence by the cultivation of cloves, cinnamon, oranges, cocoa-nut palms, sugar-cane, and other produce, a great number have emigrated into the interior to form new colonies. Hamed Ibrahim has been eighteen years in Karagwe, Muini Kheri has been thirty years in Ujiji, Sultan bin Ali has been twenty-five years in IJnyanyembe, Muini DugumLi has been eight years in Nyangwe, Juma Merikani has been «eeven years in Eua, and a number of other prominent Arabs may be cited to prove that, though they themselves firmly believe that they will return to the coast some day, there are too many reasons for believing that they never will. None of the Arabs in the interior with whom I am acquainted ever proceeded thither with the definite in- tention of colonisation. Some were driven thither, by false hopes of acquiring rapid fortunes by the purchase of slaves and ivory, and, perceiving that there were worse places on earth than Africa., preferred to remain there, to facing the odium of fniluro. Others borrowed large sums on trust from credulous Hindis and Banyans, and having failed in the venture now prefer to endure ARABS IN THE INTEllIOB. 45 the exclusion to wliich they have subjected themselves, to returning and being arrested by their enraged creditors. Others again are not merely bankrupts, but persons who have fled the vengeance of the law for political offences, as well as ordinary crimes. There are many who are in better circumstances in the interior than they would be on their own island of Zanzibar. Some of them have hundreds of slaves, and he would be a very poor Arab indeed who pos- sessed only ten. These slaves, under their masters' direction, have constructed roomy, comfortable, flat- roofed houses, or lofty cool huts, which, in the dangerous and hostile districts, are surrounded by strong stockades. Thus, at Unyanyembe there are sixty or seventy large stockades enclosing the owner's house and store-rooms, as well as the numerous huts of his slaves. Ujiji, again, may be described as a long straggling village, formed by the large tembes of the Arabs ; and Nyangwe is another settlement similar to Ujiji. Many of the Arabs settled in the pastoral dis- tricts possess large herds of cattle and extensive fields where rice, wheat, Indian corn, and millet are culti- vated, besides sugar-cane and onions, and the fruit trees of Zanzibar — the orange, lemon, papaw, mango, and pomegranate — now being gradually introduced. The Arabs of Zanzibar, whether from more frequent intercourse with Europeans or from other causes, are undoubtedly the best of their race. More easily amenable to reason than those of Egypt, or the shy, reserved, and bigoted fanatics of Arabia, they offer no obstacles to the European traveller, but are sociable, frank, good-natured, and hospitable. In business they are keen traders, and of course will exact the highest percentage of profit out of the unsuspecting European if they are permitted. They are staunch friends and desperate haters. Blood is seldom satisfied without blood, unless extraordinary sacrifices are made. 1874. October. Zanzibar. ■t; .*• 1874. October. Zanzibar. 46 THROuan the dauk continent. The conduct of an Artib gentleman is perfect. In| delicate matters are never broaclied before strangcis; impertinence is hushed instantly by the elders, and] rudeness is never permitted. Naturally, they have tliel vices of their education, blood, and race, but these! moral blemishes are by their traditional excellence ofl breeding seldom obtruded upon the observation of tliel stranger. After the Arabs let us regard the Wangwana, justl as in Europe, after studying the condition and character! of the middle classes, we might turn to reflect upon] that of the labouring population. Of the Wangwana there will be much written in! the following pages, the outcome of careful study and a long experience of them. Few explorers have recorded anything greatly to their credit. One of them lately | said that the negro knows neither love nor affection; another that he is simply the " link " between tliel simian and the European. Another says, " The wretches take a trouble and display an ingenuity in opposition and disobedience, in perversity, annoyance, and villainy, which rightly directed would make them invaluable." Almost all have been severe in their strictures on tliel negro of Zanzibar. The origin of the Mgwana or Freeman may be briefly I told. When the Arabs conquered Zanzibar, thej found the black subjects of the Portuguese to be of| two classes, Watuma (slaves) and Wangwana (free- men). The Freemen were very probably black people I who had either purchased their freedom by the savings of their industry or were made free upon the death of their masters: these begat children who, being born out of bondage, were likewise free. Arab rulers, in classifying their subjects, perceived no great difference in physique or general appearance between those who were slaves and those who were free, both classes belonging originally to the same negro tribes of the| WATUMA on WANOWANAf 47 interior. Thus, when any of these were brougl it before the authorities convicted of offences, the question naturally asked was, " Arc you a Mtuma, a slave, or a Mgwana, a freeman ? " A repetition of these questions through a long course of years established the custom of identifying the two classes of Zanzibar negroes as "Watuma — slaves — and Wangwana — freemen. Later, however, came a new distinction, and the word Watuma, except in special and local cases, was dropped, for, with the advent of the free native traders direct from the mainland, and the increase of traffic between Zanzibar and the continent, as well as out of courtesy to their own slaves, the Arabs began to asV the black stranger, " Are you Mgwana, a freeman, or Mshensi, a pagan ?" In disputes among themselves the question is still asked, " Are you a slave or a freeman ?" but when strangers are involved, it is always, "Are you Mgwann, a freeman or a native of Zanzibar, or a Mshensi, a pagan or an uncircumcised native of the mainland ? " It will be thus seen that the word " "Wangwana " is now a generic, widely used, and well understood for the coloured natives of Zanzibar. When, therefore, the term is employed in this book, it includes alike both the slaves and the freemen of Zanzibar. After nearly seven years' acquaintance with the Wangwana, I have come to perceive that they represent in their character much of the disposition of a large portion of the negro tribes of the continent. I find them capable of great love and affection, and possessed of gratitude and other noble traits of human nature : I know too that they can be made good, obedient servants, that many are clever, honest, industrious, docile, enterprising, brave and moral ; that they are, in short, equal to any other race or colour on the face of the globe, in all the attributes of manhood. But to be able to perceive their worth, the traveller must 1874. Octnlier. Znuzibtti. ./i 48 TUIiOUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. October. Zaazibar. bring an unprejudiced judgment, a clear, fresh, and patient observation, and must forget that lofty standard of excellence upon which he and his race pride theni" selves, before he can fairly appreciate the capabilities of the Zanzibar negro. The traveller should not forget the origin of his own race, the condition of the Briton before St. Augustine visited his country, but should rather recall to mind the first state of the "wild Caledonian," and the original circumstances and sur- roundings of Primitive Man. Louis Figuier says : — " However much our pride may suffer by the idea, we must confess that, at the earliest period of his existence, man could have been but little distinguished from the brute. His pillow was a stone, his roof was the shadow of a wide-spreading tree, or some dark cavern, which also served as a refuge against wild beasts." And again, in his chapter on the "Iron Epoch," he notes how " From the day when iron was first placed at man's disposal, civilization began to make its longest strides, and as the working of this metal improved, so the dominion of man — his faculties and his intellect — real activity — likewise enlarged in the same propor- tion." And at the end of a most admirable book, he counsels the traveller, " Look to it, lest thy pride cause thee to forget thy own origin." Being, I hope, free from prejudices of caste, colour, race, or nationality, and endeavouring to pass what I believe to be a just judgment upon the negroes of Zanzibar, I find that they are a people just emerged into the Iron Epoch, and now thrust forcibly under the notice of nations who have left them behind by the improvements of over 4000 years. They possess beyond doubt all the vices of a people still fixed deeply in barbarism, but they understand to the full what and how low such a state is ; it is, therefore, a duty imposed upon us by the religion we profess, and by the sacred THE WANQWANA. 49 command of the Son of God, to help them out of the I874. deplorable state tliey are now in. At any rate, Lefore 2/^"^"' we begin to hope for the improvement of races so long beniglited, let us leave off this impotent bewailing of their vices, and endeavour to discover some of the virtues they possess as men, for it must be with the aid of their virtues, and not by their vices, tliat the missionary of civilization can ever hope to assist them. While, therefore, recording my experiences through Africa, I shall have frequent occasion to dilate upon both the vices and the virtues of the Wangwana as well as of the natives of the interior, but it will not be with a view to foster, on the one hand, the self- deception of the civilized, or the absurd prejudices created by centuries of superior advantages, nor, on the other hand, to lead men astray by taking a too bright view of things. I shall write solely and simply with a strong desire to enable all interested in the negro to understand his mental and moral powers |rightly. The Mgwana or native of Zanzibar, who dwells at iNgambu, is a happy, jovial soul. He is fond of company, therefore sociable. His vanity causes him to be am- bitious of possessing several white shirts and bright red caps, and since he has observed that his superiors use v,alking-s ticks, he is almost certain, if he is rich enough to own a white shirt anc" a red cap, '.o be seen sporting la light cane. The very poorest of his class hire them- selves, or are hired out by their masters, to carry Ibales, boxes, and goods, fiom the custom house to the [boat, or store-room, or vice versd, and as a general beast lof burden, for camels are few, and of wheeled vehicles Ithere .ire none. Those who prefer light work and lliave good characters may obtain positions as door- Ikeepers or house-servants, or for washing copal and Idrving hides for the European merchants. Others, VOL, I. E 50 TIlROUCxU THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. ^ October. Zanzibar. trained as mechanics, obtain a livelihood by repairino. muskets, manufacturing knives, belts, and accoutre- ments, or by carpentering and shipbuilding. There is a class of Wangwana living at Nganibu, in the small gardens of the interior ot the island, and along ilie coast of the mainland, who prefer the wandering life offered to them by the Arab traders and scientific COXSWAIN ULKDI, AND MANWA SKUA, C'lllKF CAPTAIN. {From a 'photograph.') expeditions to being subject to the caprice, tyranml and meanness of small estate j)r()prietors. Tlievl complain that tlie Arahs are haughty, graspingJ and exacting; that they abuse them and pay tlKi| badly ; that, if they seek justice at the hands of tlij Cadis, judgment, somehow, always goes against tbtiuj They say, on the c trading or other ( abundance to eat, ; But the highest house and sltamha ( may only be large trees, a dozen re shrubs, half a doze planted with swee gTOund-nuts ; nevi or estate, and then corner of this tiny erect his house, wi wonld stock with 1 which last he wo Three hundred d( value of house, gii sils, tools, and all, i he twice married, and even the ow such be his condil cruel world, and ' well-to-do, and co But he is seldom s is a sociable, kindl' nature has won ft of fermented mtan or cocoa-nut milk tlie Goanese in hottle, serve to difT It is to the AVj S])eke and Grant ment of their obje( explorers, this ra( jrraphy. From a Eipuitor down to A MOWANA'S monEST AMBITION. H They say, on tlie other hand, that, when accompanying trading or other expeditions, tliey are well paid, have abundance to eat, and comparatively but little work. But the highest ambition of a Mgwana is to have a house and sJiamha or garden of his own. The shamba may only be large enough to possess a dozen cocoa-nut- trees, a dozen rows, thirty yards long, of cassava shrubs, half a dozen banana plants, half a dozen rows planted with sweet-potatoes, and two or three rows of ground-nuts ; nevertheless, this would be Ids garden or estate, and therefore of priceless estimation. At one corner of this tiny but most complete estate, he would erect his house, with an exclusive courtyard, which ho would stock with half a dozen chickens and one goat, which last he would be sure to spoil with kindness. Three hundred dollars would probably be the total value of house, garden, chickens, goat, domestic uten- sils, tools, and all, and yet, with this property, he would be twice married, the father of four or five children, and even the owner of a domestic slave or two. If such be his condition, he will snap his fingers at the cruel world, and will imagine himself as prosperous, well-to-do, and comfortable as any Arab in Zanzibar. But he is seldom spoiled by this great prosperity. lie is a sociable, kindly disposed man, and his frank, hearty nature has won for him hosts of friends. Beer made of fermented mtama or Indian corn, wine of the i)alin or cocoa-nut milk, or the stronger eau de vie sold by the Goanese in the town at twenty-five cents the Lottie, serve to diffuse and cement these friendships. It is to the Wangwana that Livingstone, Burton, Speke and Grant owe, in great part, the accomplish- ment of their objects, and while in the employ of those explorers, this race rendered gi'eat services to geo- j2:niphy. From a considerable distance north of the E(piator down to the Zambezi and across Africa to £ 2 1874. Octi ber. Zanzibar. 4- 52 TEEOUOn TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1874.; Octohei'. Zanzibar. Benguclla and the mouth of the Livingstone, they have made their names familiar to tribes who, but for the Wangwana, would have remained ignorant to this day of all things outside their own settlements. They possess, with many weaknesses, many fine qualities. While very superstitious, easily inclined to despair, and readily giving ear to vague, unreasonable fears, they may also, by judicious management, be induced to laugh at their own credulity and roused to a courageous attitude, to endure like Stoics, and fight like heroes. It will depend altogether upon the leader of a body of such men whether their worst or best qualities shall prevail. There is another class coming into notice from the interior of Africa, who, though of a sterner nature, will, I am convinced, as they are better known, become greater favourites than the Wangwana. I refer to the Wanyamwezi, or the natives of Unyamwezi, and the Wasukuma, or the people of Usukuma. Naturally, being a grade less advanced towards civilization than the Wangwana, they are not so amenable to discipline as the latter. While explorers would in the present state of acquaintance prefer the Wangwana as escort, the Wanyamwezi are far superior as porters. Their greater freedom from diseases, their greater strength and endurance, the pride they take in their profession of porters, prove them born travellers of incalculable use and benefit to Africa. If kindly treated, I do not know more docile and good-natured creatures. But the discipline must not be strict, until they have had opportunities of understanding their employer's nature and habits, and of comprehending that discipline does not mean abuse. Their courage they have repeatedly proved under their Napoleonic leader Mirambo, in many a well-fought field against the Arabs and Wangwana. Their skill in war, tenacity of purpose, and deteiaii- yLw cuuntu ON THE COMING BACES. 53 nation to defend the ric:hts of their elected chief against foreigners, have furnished tliemes for soDg to the bards of Central Africa. Tippu-Tib has led 500 of these men tlirough distant Bisa and the plains of Rua : Juma Merikani has been escorted by them into the heart of the regions beyond the Tanganika: Khamis bin Adallah commanded a large force of them in his search for ivory in the intra-lake countries. The English discoverer of Lake Tanganika and, finally, I myself have been equally indebted to them, both on my first and last expeditions. From their numbers, and their many excellent qualities, I am led to think that the day will come when they will be regarded as something better than the " best of pagazis " ; that they will be esteemed as the good subjects of some enlightened power, who will train them up as the nucleus of a great African nation, as powerful for the good of the Dark Continent, as they tlireaten, under the present condition of things, to be for its evil. 1874. OcuibtT. Zanzibar. KLW IHUBCH ON PITK OF OLD Sl.AVE-MABIiET, ZANZIMIU 54 Tim. u an the dark co^tinl'nt. CnAPTER HI. 1874. November Zanzibar. Organization of the Expedition— Tlie s'.aur'. — " Poli-poli * — ]\Isenna's successful im])Osturo — Black sheep in the flock — The La>fy Afke remodelled — Sewinj? a British flag — Tarya Topan, the millionaire — Signing the covenants — "On the word of a white man"— Saying good-bye — Loading the dhows — Vale ! — Towards the Dark Continent. It is a most sobering employment, tlie organ I'zinj]^ of an African expedition. You are constantly engage!, mind and body ; now in casting up accounts, and now travelling to and fro hurriedly to receive messenger!-, inspecting purchases, bargaining with keen-eyed, relent- less Hindi merchants, writing* memoranda, haQ-cliiifr over extortionate prices, packing up a multitude of small utilities, pondering upon yoar lists of articles, wanted, purchas'^d, and unpurchased, groping about in the recesses of a highly exercised imagination for what you ought to purchase, and cannot do without, superintending, arranging, assorting, and packing. And this under a temperature of 95° Fahr. In the midst of all this terrific, high-pressure exercise r.rrives the first batch of applicants for employment. For it has long ago been bruited abroad tliat I am ready to enlist all able-bodied human beings willing to carr^ a load, be th^y Wangvvana or Wanyamwezi, Wag-'i;? , Somali, Wasagara, Wayow, Wajindo, V^a^ >go, or Wazaramo, Ever since I arrived at ZtinzAJUar^ ,iuco which date I have been absent For account of this "^^M ;-t' frJEQTING THE EXPEDITION. 65 fvploWng the Riiflji river,* I have had n very good rei'ucation among- Arabs and Wangwana. They have not forgotten thi\t it was I who found the " old white man" — Livingstone — in Ujiji, nor tliat libenlity and kindress to my men were my special characteristics. Tliey liave alwo, with the true Oriental spirit of exag- goi ition, proclaimed that I was but a few months absent ; and that) after this brief excursion, they returned to tlieir homes to enjoy the liberal pay awarded thom, feeling rather the better for the trip than otherwise. This unsought for reputation brought on me t]\e laborious task of selecting proper men out of an extraordinary number of applicants. Almost all the cripples, tlie palsied, the consumptive, and the uperannuated that Zanzibar could furnish applied to be enrolled on the muster list, but these, subjected to a searching examination, were refused. Hard upon their heels came all the roughs, rowdies, and ruffians of the island, and these, schooled by their fellows, were not so easily detected. Slaves were also refused, as being too much under the influence and insi^ruction of their masters, and yet many were engaged of whoso character I had not the least conception, until, months afterwards, I learned from tlieir quarrels in the camp Low I had been misled by the clever rogues. All those who bore good characters on the Search Expedition, and had been despatched to the assistance of Livingstone in 18<'2, were employed without delay. Out of these the chiefs were selected : these were, Manwa Sera, Chowpereh, "VVadi Rehani, Kacheche, Zuidi, Chakanja, Farjalla, Wadi Safeni, Bukhet, Mabruki Manyapara, Mabruki Unyanyembe, Muini Pcmbe, Eerahaii, Bwana Muri, Khamseen, Mabruki Sp(ikc, Simba, Gardner, Hamoidah, Zaidi Mganda, aud Ulimengo. * Far account of this cxplorutioii, see brief ac(jouut in Appendix. 1874. NoTember. Zanzibar. ^ { ,. 66 '"iinouon THE dauk continent. 187-i. November, Zunzibur, But before real business could be entered into, the cu.*;tomary present had to be distributed 1o eaoli. Ulimengo, or the World , the incorrigible joker and hunter in chief of the Search and Livingstone's expedi- tions, received a gold ring to encircle one of his thick black fingers, and a silver chain to suspend round liis neck, which caused his mouth to expand gratefully. Rojab, who was soon reminded of the unlucky accident with Livingstone's Journal in the muddy waters of the Mukondokwa, was endowed with a munificent gift which won him over to my service beyond fear of bribery. Manwa Sera, the redoubtable ambassador of Speke and Grant to Manwa Sera — tlie royal fugitive distressed by the hot pursuit of the Arabs — the leader of my second caravan in 1871, the chief of the party sent to Unyanyembe to the assistance of Livingstone in 1872, and now appointed Chief Captain of the Anglo- American Expedition, was rendered ' mporarily speech- less with gratitihle because I had suspended a splendid jet necklace from his neck, and ringed one of his fingers with a heavy seal ring. The historical Mabruki Speke, called by one of my predecessors ** Mabruki the Bull- headed," who has each time in the employ of European explorers conducted himself with matchless fidelity, and is distinguished for his hawk-eyed guardianship of their property and inlorests, exhibited extravagant rapture at the testimrniul fbi past services bestowed on him ; while the valiant, fuithful; sturdy Chowpereh, the man of manifold viitues, a^i; rewarded for his former wortli with a silver dagger, gilt bracelet, and earrings. His wife was also made happy with a suitable gift, and tlie heir of [1 e Cho\rpereh estate, a child of two years, was, at his father's urgent request, rendered safe by vaccine from any attack of the small-pox during our absence in Africa, All great enterprises require a preliminary de- ''roLii POLir* 57 liberative pnlavcr, or, as the Wangwana call it, i874. "Sliauri." In East Africa particularly shanris are ^"^*'™^"' . . ^ "^ . . . Zaazibar. much m vogue. Precipitate, energetic action is dreaded. " Poli, poli ! " or " Gently ! " is the warning word of ciHition given. The chiefs arranged themselves in a semi-circle on the dav of the shauri, and I sat a la Turque fronting them. "What is it, my friends ? Speak your minds." They Inimmed and hawed, looked at one another, as if on their neighbour's faces they might discover the purport of their coming, but, all hesitating to begin, finally broke down in a loud laugh. Manwa Sera, always grave, unless hit dexterously with a joke, hereupon affected anger, and said, " You speak, son of Safeni ; verily we act like children ! Will tlie master eat us?" Wadi, son of Safeni, thus encouraged to perform the spokesman's duty, hesitates exactly two seconds, and then ventures with diplomatic blandness and (jraciositj/. " We have come, master, with words. Listen. It is well we should know every step before we leap. A traveller journeys not without knowing whither lie wanders. We have come to ascertain what lands you are bound for." Imitating the son of Safeni's gracious blandness, and liis low tone of voice, as though the information about to be imparted to the intensely interested and eagerly listening group were too important to speak it loud, I descril)ed in brief outline the prospective journey, m broken Kiswaliili. As country after country was men- tioned of which they had hitherto but vague ideas, and river after river, lake after lake named, all of which 1 lioi/ed with their trusty aid to explore carefully, various ejaculations expressive of wonder and joy, mixed with a little alarm, broke from their lips, but when I concluded, each of the group drew a long breath, and almost I f 68 TIIROUan THE DARK CONTINENT 1874. November. Zanzibar. simultaneously they uttered admiringly, *' Ah, fellows, this is a journey worthy to he called a journey ! " " But, master," said they, after recovering themselves, *' this long journey will take years to travel — six, nine, or ten years." " Xonsense," I replied. " Six, nine, or ten years! What can you be thinking of? It takes the Arabs nearly three years to reach Ujiji, it is true, but, if you remember, I w^as but sixteen months from Zanzibar to Ujiji and back. Is it not so ?" " Ay, trut, ' they answered. " Very w^ell, and I assure you I have not cou^e to live in Africa. I have come simply to see those rivers and lakes, and after I have seen them to return home." "Ah, but you know the old master, Livingstone," rejoined Ilamoidah, who had fol- lowed the veteran traveller nearly eight years, "said he was only going for two 3'ears, and you know that he never came back, but died there." " That is true enough, but if I were quick on the first journey, am I likely to be slow now? Am I much elder than I was then? Am I less strong ? Do I not kno v what travel is now ? Was I not like a l^y then, and a; 1 I not now a man? You remember wdiile going to Ujiji I permitted the guide to show the way, but when we were returning who was it that led the wny ? Was it not I, by means of that little compass which could not lie like the guide?" " Ay, true, master, true every word !" " Very w^ell, then, let us finish the shauri, and go. To-morrow we wiU make a proper agreement before the consul ;" and in Scriptural phrase, " they forthwith arose and did as they were commanded." Upon receiving information from the coast that there was a very large number of men Avaiting for me, I became still more fastidious in my choice. But with all my care and gift of selection, I was mortified toj discover that many faces and characters had baffled the rigorous scrutiny to which I had subjected them, and A isrEcious uirosTon. flint some scores of the most abandoned and depraved cliai'acters on the island liad been enlisted by me on the Expedition. One man, named Msenna, imposed upon me by assuminf^ such a contrite penitent look, and weeping sucli copious tears, when I informed him that he had too bad a charjacter to be employed, that my good-nature w^as prevailed upon to accept his ser- vices, upon the understanding that, if he indulged his murderous propensities in Africa, 1 should return him cliju'ned the entire distance to Zanzibar, to be dealt with by his Prince. The defence of his conduct was something like this : "Bwann,* you fcee these scars on m^' head and neck, Tliey are from the sabres of the Seyyid's soldiers. Demand of any, Arab or Freeman, why I received them. They will tell }ou they were inflicted for rebellion against Prince AInjid at Melinda. The Arabs hate me because I joined the coast men against their authority. Can any one charge me with worse deeds ? " — appealing to the Wangwana. All were silent. " I am a free-born son of the coast, and never did any man or woman who did not molest me the smallest injury. Allah be praised ! I am strong, healthy, and contented with my lot, and if I you take me you will never have cause to regret it. If you fear that I shall desert give me no advance pay, but pay me when I come back to Zanzibar according to my ! deserts." This appeal was delivered with impassioned accents land lively gestures, which produced a great effect upon the mixed audience who listened to him, and l^atliering from their faces, more than from my own convictions, that poor scarred Msenna was a kind of a political refugf^e, much abused and very much mis- understood, his c^ervices were accepted, and as he appeared to be an influential man, he was appointed a • " Master." 1874. Novembei 21anzilar. /. ■ 60 TIIROVQII THE DARK CONTINENT. THE "LAI Zanzibar. 1874. junior captain with prospects of promotion and higher November, p^y^ Subsequently, however, on tlie shores of Lake Victoria it was discovered — for in Africa people are uncommonly communicative — that Msenna had murdered eight people, that he was a ruffian of the worst sort, and that the merchants of Zanzibar had experienced great relief when they heard that the notorious Msenna was about to bid farewell for a season to the scene of so many of his wild exploits. Msenna was only one of many of his kind, but I have given in detail the manner of his enlistment that my position may be better understood. Soon after my return from the Rufiji delta, the B. I. S. N. Company's steamer Euphrates had brought the sectional exploring boat, Ladi/ Alice, to Zanzibar. Exceedingly anxious for the portability of the sections, I had them at once weighed, and great were my vexation and astonishment when I discovered that four of the sections weighed 280 lbs. each, and that one weighed 310 lbs. ! She was, it is true, a marvel of workmanship, and an exquisite model of a boat, 8uch, indeed, as few builders in England or America could rival, but in her present condition her carriage througli the jungles would necessitate a pioneer force a hundred strong to clear the impediments and obstacles on the road. "While almost plunged into despair, I was informed that there was a very clever English carpenter, named Ferris, about to leave by the Euphrates for England. Mr. Ferris was quickly made acquainted with my difficulty, and for a " consideration " promised, after a personal inspection of the boat, to defer his departure one month, and to do his utmost to make the sections portable without lessening her efficiency. When the boat was exhibited to him, I explained that the narrow- ness of the path would make her portage absolutely THE "LADY ALICE'' REMODELLED. CI impossible, for since tlie path was often only 18 inches wide in Africa, and hemmed in on each side with dense I jungle, any package 6 feet broad could by no means be conveyed along it. It was therefore necessary that each of the four sections should be subdivided, by which means I should obtain eight portable sections, each 3 feet wide, and that an afterpiece could easily be made by myself upon arriving at the lakes. Mr. Ferris, perfectly comprehending his instructions, and with tlie aid given by the young Pococks, furnished me within two weeks with the newly modelled Lady Alice, But it must be understood that her success as a safe exploring boat is due to the conscientious workmanship which the honest and thoroughly reliable boat-builder of Teddington lavished upon her. The pride which the young Pococks and Frederick Barker entertained in respect to their new duties, in tlie new and novel career of adventure now opening before them, did not seom to damp that honourable love of country which every Englishman abroad exhibits, and is determined to gratify if he can. Their acquaintance with the shipwright, Mr. Ferris, who had evidently assisted at the ceremony of planting the British flag at the masthead of many a new and noble structure, destined to plough strange seas, reminded them, during one of the social evening hours which they spent together, tliat it would be a fine thing if they might also be permitted to hoist a miniature emblem of their nationality over their tent in camp, and over their canoes on the lakes and rivers of Africa. The Pococks and Barker accordingly, a few days before our departure, formed themselves into a deputa- tion, and Frank, who was spokesman, surprised me with the following request : — " My brother, Fred Barker, and myself, Sir, have been emboldened to ask you a favour, which no doubt 1874. November. ZanziWr. \ \ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^ ^/ .** <£ ^ ^0 %* 1.0 '^^ 1^ I.I ■Si LS 12.0 IL25 i 1.4 I ff^ ^j^ ■> '/ Photographic ^Sciences Lorporation ^ fV ^'>" \ ;\ ^ vas hers. wishes for his lasti kind Arab and II salaams. Grave I we should meet a pilot, wished me a lands of the heat chant, Tarya Topj sliould be prospe back crowned witl The young En manners and ma number of true fr many hearty well- wells from numero At the end of th of Mohammedans, that they would b( and mats, and pn vessels waiting f mustered in stron and bestow last was impossible to crowd on the bea discover who wer< company were in that they had not btimulants against As fast as each Nak/iuda or Captr oiF shore to await 12th November, 2: and five of the Ai cattle, and materiel waiting with an command. One V( myself, and Freder ^'.-.r- BATINO aOOD-BYE. 67 wishes for his lasting prosperity and happiness. Many kind Arab and Hindi friends also received my parting siilaams. Grave Sheikh Hashid expressed a hope that we should meet again on earth, Captain Bukhet, the pilot, wished me a quick and safe return from the dread lands of the heathen, and the '^rincely Indian mer- cliant, Tarya Topan, expressed Ins sincere hopes that I should be prosperous in my undertaking, and come back crowned with success. The young Englishmen, whose charming, simple manners and manly bearing had won for them a number of true friends at Zanzibar, were not without many hearty well-wishers, and received cheerful fare- wells from numerous friends. At the end of the Ramadan, the month of abstinence of Mohammedans, the Wangvvana, true to their promise that they would bo ready, appeared with their bundles and mats, and proceeded to take their places in the vessels waiting for them. As their friends had mustered in strong force to take their final parting and bestow last useful hints and prudent advice, it was impossible to distinguish among the miscellaneous crowd on the beach those who were present, or to discover who were absent. The greater part of my company were in high spirits, and from this I inferred that they had not forgotten to fortify themselves with btimulants against the critical moment of departure. As fast as each dhow was reported to be filled, the Nakhnda or Captain was directed to anchor farther off shore to await the signal to sail. By 5 p.m. of the 12th November, 224 men had responded to their names, and five of the Arab vessels, laden with the personnelj cattle, and matirkl of the expedition, were impatiently waiting with anchor heaK^ed short, the word of comuiand. One vessel still lay close ashore, to convey myself, and Frederick Barker — in charge of the personal F 2 187-* Nov. 12. Zauzibar. 68 TimOUGII THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. servants — our baj^gajrc, and clogs. Turning round to * "V- - ji^y constant and well-tried friend, Mr. Augustus Spar- * hawk, I fervently clasped liis hand, and with a full heart though halting tongue, attempted to pour out my feelings of gratitude for his kindness and long sustained hospitality, my keen regret at parting and hopes of meeting again. But I was too agitated to • he eloquent, and all my forced gaiety could not carry me through the ordeal. So we parted in almost total silence, but I felt assured that he would judge my M — ■ .i>~' UNIVERBITIES MISSION AT MnWENNI, ZAXZinAR. {From a photograph hy Mr. Buchanan, of Natal Seepage 78.) emotions by his own feelings, and would accept tlie lame effort at their expression as though he had listened to the most voluble rehearsal of thanks. A wave of my hand, and the anchors were hove up and laid within ship, and then, hoisting our lateen sails, we bore away westward to launch ourselves into the arms of Fortune. Many wavings of kercliiefs and hats, parting signals from white hands, and last long looks at friendly white faces, final confused impressions VALE! 09 of the p^rouped figures of our well-wishers, and then tlie evening breeze had swept us away into mid-sea beyond reach of recognition. The parting is over ! We have said onr last words for years, perhaps for ever, to kindly men ! The sun sinks fast to the western horizon, and gloomy is the twilight that now deepens and darkens. Thick shadows fall upon the distant land and over the silent sea, and oppress our throbbing, regretful hearts, as we glide away through the dying light tosvards The Dark Continent. ^_. .a.% ^m" 'T0WAKD8 TUE DAUK CONTINENT." 1S74. Nov. 12. Zanzibar. ^ 70 TUROUQU THE DARK COSTINEN' CHAPTER IT. Bogamoyo — Tami'np; tho dark brother — Bajramoyo in a fermctit; — An exciting scene — The distnrltance quelled — The Universities Mififiion, its origin, history, decline nnd present condition — The llov. Edward Steere — Notre Dame do Bapamoyo — Westward ho ! — In inarching order — Sub Jove fervido — Crossing the Kinguui — Tho stolen women. 1874. Baoamoyo, Whindi, and Saadani, East African villawa Ba'amo ^^ *^^® mainland near the sea, offer exceptionally good starting-points for the unexplored interior, for many reasons. First. Because the explorers and the people are strangers to one another, and a slight knowledge of their power of mutual cohesion, hahits, and relative influences, is desirable before launching out into the wilds. Second. The natives of those maritime vilhijies are accustomed to have their normally languid and ])eaee- ful life invaded and startled by the bustle of foreigners arriving by sea and from the continent, Arab traders bound for the interior and lengthy native caravans from Unyamwezi. Ti ird. An expedition not fully recruited to its necessary strength at Zanzibar may be easily reinforced at these ports by volunteers from native caravans who are desirous of returning to tlieir homes, and who, day by day, along the route, will straggle in towards it until the list is full and complete. These, then, were the principal reasons for my selection of Bagamoyo as the initial point, from whence, after inoculating the various untamed spirits who bad T AMINO THE DAliK BliOTTlER. n (• now enlisted under me, with a respect for order and i874. discipline, obedience and system (the true prophylactic ^°^* "* against failure) I should be free to rove where dis- **'"°"^" coveries would be fruitful. This " inoculation " will not, however, commence until after a study of thuir natures, their deficiencies and weaknesses. The ex- hibition of force, at this juncture, would be dangerous • to our prospects, and all means gentle, patient, and persuasive have, therefore, to be tried first. What- ever deficiencies, weaknesses, and foibles the people may develop must be so manipulated that, while they are learning the novel lesson of obedience, they may only just suspect that behind all this there lies the strong unbending force which will eventually make men of them, wild things though they now are. For the first few months, then, forbearance is absolutely necessary. The dark brother, wild as a colt, chafing, restless, ferociously impulsive, superstitiously timid, liable to furious demonstrations, suspicious and un- reasonable, must be forgiven seventy times seven, until the period of probation is passed. Long before this period is over, such temperate conduct will have enlisted a powerful force, attached to their leader by bonds of good-will and respect, even, perhaps, of love and devotion, and by the moral influence of their support even the most incorrigible mauvais svjet will be restrained, and finally conquered. Many things will transpire during the first few A\'e('ks which will make the explorer sigh and wish that lie had not ventured upon what promises to be a ho])eless task. Maddened by strong drinks and drugs, jealous of their status in tlie camp, regretting also, like (•nrselves, that they liad been so hasty in undertaking the journey, brooding over the joys of the island fast receding from them, anxious for the future, susceptible • to the first and every influence that assails them with f ff ,j 72 THROUail THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. Nov. I a temptations to return to the coast, these people require i to bo treated with the utmost kindness and considera- gamoyo. ^.^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ intending traveller must be wisely 1 circumspect in his intercourse with them. From my former experiences of such men, it will be readily believed that I had prepared for the scenes which 1 1 knew were to follow at Bagamoyo, and that all my| precautions had been taken. Upon landing at Bagamoyo on the morning of tlie 13tli, we marched to occupy the old house where wej had stayed so long to prepare the First Expedition. The goods were stored, the dogs chained up, tliel riding asses tethered, the rifles arrayed in the store- room, and the sectional boat laid under a roof close by, on rollers, to prevent injury from the white ants— a precaution which, I need hardly say, we had to observe throughout our journey. Then some more ration money, sufficient for ten days, had to be distributed among the men, the ^oung Pococks were told oflF to various camp duties to initiate them to exploring life in Africa, and then, after the first confusion of arrival had subsided, I began to muster the new engages. But within three hours Bagamoyo was in a ferment. " The white man has brought all the robbers, ruHians, and murderers of Zanzibar to take possession of the town," was the rumour that ran wildly through all tlie streets, lanes, courts, and bazaars. Men with bloody faces, wild, bloodshot eyes, bedraggled, rumpled and torn dresses, reeled up to our orderly and nearly silent quarters clamouring for rifles and ammunition. Arahs with drawn swords, and sinewy Baluchis with match- locks and tinder ready to be ignited, came up threatening, and, following them, a miscellaneous rabble of excited men, while, in the background, seethed a mob of frantic women and mischievous children. " What is the matter ? " I asked, scarcely knowing AN EXCITINO SCENE. 73 how to begin to calm this turbulent n .ss of passionate 1874. It :..,»n imv. 13» Ibeing^s. " Matter I" was echoed. "What is the matter? was repeated. " Matter enougli. The town is in an uproar. Your men are stealing, murdering, robbing goods from the stores, breaking plates, killing our chickens, assaulting everybody, drawing knives on our women after abusing them, and tiireatening to burn the town and exterminate everybody. Matter indeed ! mailer enough! What do you mean by bringing this savage rabble from Zanzibar ? " So fumed and sputtered an Arab of some consequence among the magnates of Bag-amoyo. " Dear me, my friend, this is shocking ; terrible. Pray sit down, and be patient. Sit down here by me, and let us talk this over like wise men,*' I said in soothing tones to this enfant terrible j for he really looked, in feature, dress, and demeanour, what, had I been an imaginative raw youth, 1 should have 8et down as the " incarnate scourge of Africa," and he looked wicked enough with his bare, sinewy arms, his brandished sword, and fierce black eyes, to chop off my linnocent head. The Arab, with a short nod, accepted my proposition and seated himself. " We are about to have a Sliauri -a consultation." " Hush there ! Silence 1 " " Words ! " "Sliauri ! " " Words — open your ears ! " " Slaves I " "Fools!" "List, Arabs!" "You Baluch there, rein in your tongue ! " &c. &c., cried out a wild mixture lof voices in a strange mixture of tongues, command:'iif,\ |or imploring, silence. The Arab was requested to speak, and to point out, [if he knew them, the Wangwana guilty of provoking piich astonishing disorder. In an indignant and elo(|uent krain he rehearsed his special complaint. A man iDamed Mustapha had come to his shop drunk, and had ,, Dagnoaoyo. 't I: 74 Tniiouan the dark continent. 1874, Nov.14-16 abused liim like a low blackguaril, and then, Hnatchinc^iip| ^v.i-*-io. ^ j^^^i^ ^j. gQ^i^jj cloth, had run away with it, but, beiiiijl pursued and caught, had drawn a knife, and was al)out| to stab him when a friend of his opportunely cluble the miscreant and thus saved his life. By the nioutlijl of several witnesses the complaint was proved, audi Mustapha was therefore arrested, disarmed of his knifej and locked up in the dark strong-room, to reflect his crimes in solitude. Loud approval greeted tliej sentence. r) '» " Who else r A score of people of both sexes advanced to^vadsj me with their complaints, and it seemed as tlunv^l silence couid never be restored, but by dint of threats ing to leave the burzah from sheer despair, quictiied was restored. It is unnecessary to detail the several charges made against them, or to describe the maniiei| of conviction, but, after three hours, peace reigiiee, with a dozen of their comradj standing guard over them. To avoid a repetition of this terrible scene, I dos patched a messenger with a polite request to tliJ Governor, Sheikh Mansur bin Suliman, that he woiilJ arrest and punish all disorderly Wang \\ ana in mj service, as justice should require, but I am sorry to saj that the Wali (governor) took such advantage of tinj request that few of the Wangwana who showed ihiij faces in the streets next day escaped violence. Actlnj on the principle that desperate diseases require de^ perate remedies, over thirty had been chained aiitj beaten, and many others iiad escaped abuse of powi only by desperate flight from the myrmidons of tl)| now vennxeful sheikh. Another message was therefore sent to the Governoil r,t days in the Tropics, with the thermotDoterj rising to 140° Fahr. in the sun, these ]>eople, \\'\\\\ lungs and vitals injured by excessive indulgentv ini these destructive habits, discover they have no physic! stamina to sustain them. The rigour ot* a march in j\ loaded caravan soon tells upon their weakened powt.r> and one bv one thev droi) from the ranks, betraviii; their impotence and infirmities. From this date I sdl myself to examine their several cases, and the results wliich I gathered may be found in the Appendix, iVoral which the thoughtful student may perhaps doduo some useful hints. During the afternoon of this day, as T was prepariii::| my last letters, I was rather astonished by a visii paid to my camp by a detachment of Baluchi soldiers. the chief of whom bore a letter from the governor ofl Bagamoyo — ^lansur bin Suliman — wherein he com- plained that the Wangwana had induced about fifteen women to abandon their masters, and requested me to| return them. Upon mustering the people, and inquiring into tlieirl domestic aflairs, it was discovered that a number of women had indeed joined the Expedition during tliel night. Some of them bore free papers given them bv H.M. Political Resident at Zanzibar, but nine \veie| by their own confessions runaways. After being hos- pitably received by the Sultan and the Arabs of Zanzi bar, it was no part of my duty, I considered, unauthorized! as I was by any government, to be even a passive agent in this novel method of liberating slaves. The order was therefore given that these women should return with the soldiers, but as this did not agree with either THE Cic views of the womc letcrrnined oppositioi >}] i|i|)(arance of soon - he men seized their [nJ cartridges, ram nth looks which bo( [irinciple that as chi Ll'ect right to exc lut the '* faithfuls" even in number, anc [iiiltiin's soldiers, to pi lliey iiied. they must y chiefs. Frank Pc llieir rear, and then, fisarmed them, and las i^cre delivered up to Lall party of faithfu Kltan's soldiers and tenj^^cful men should 1: m camp and the rive From the details ft eding cliapters, a toh by the intending trav< lands, of the proper ] ke quality and natui llie manner of prepan fo be purchased. In Drice list and names. As there are so n alone: the seven tho Jprupose to bo brief \ Iketclies of our route Jtwo-thirds of the wa (in * How I found Li lattached to the presei THE STOLEN WOMEN. 87 he views of tlio womon or of tlioir lovirif^ abductors, a L'tennincd oj)po8it,ion was rfiised, which boro every ippcanuico of soon cidrniiiating jn sanguinary strife. ho men Koized their Snider rifles and Tower muskets, [nd cartridp^OH, ramrods and locks were liandled ritii looks which boded mischief. Acting upon the Principle that as chief of my own camp I had fc erfect ri<;ht to exclude unbidden guests, I called but tlio '* faithfuls" of my first expedition, forty- evon in number, and ranked them on the side of tho tnltiin's soldiers, to prove to tho infuriated men that, if lliey iired. they must injure their own friends, brothers, Ind chiefs. Frank Pocock also led a party of twenty in llieir roar, and then, closing in on the malcontents, we tarmed them, and lashed their guns into bundles, which rcre delivered up to the charge of Edward Pocock. A (mall party of faithfuls was then ordered to escort the Sultan's soldiers and the women out of camp, lest some venj^cful men should have formed an ambuscade between m camp and the river. Ift74. Nov. 18, Kikuka. f /^ From the details furnished in this and tho two pre- idiiig chapters, a tolerably correct idea may be gained bvtlie intending traveller, trader, or missionary in these lands, of the proper method of organization, as well as [le quality and nature of the men whom he will lead, lie manner of preparation and the proportion of articles |to be purchased. In the Appendix will be found the price list and names, which will afford a safe guide. As there are so many subjects to be touched upon along the seven thousand miles of explored lines, I propose to bo brief with the incidents and descriptive Iketclies of our route to Ituru, because the country for jtwo-thirds of the way has been sufficiently described jin 'How I found Livingstone,' and in the Appendix lattached to the present volumes. 88 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. fMii RMra lo74. .Vov. 2.'. I'onswe. THE I-.XI'EDITION AT HdSAKO. (From a photograph.) CHAPTER Y. On the march — Congoriclo to Eubuti — The hunting - f.ronnds of| Kitangeh — Shooting zebra — " Jack's " first prize — intervitnvcd by lions — Geology of Mpwapwa — Dudoma — " The flood-gates of I heaven " opened — Dismal retlections — The Salina ■ — A conspiracy i discovered — Desertions — The path lost — StarvrUon and ilciitlib j — Trouble imminent — Grain huts plundered — Siruation doplorablo — Sickness in the camp — Edward Pocock taken ill — His death aud funeral. The line of march towards tlie interior, which, after due consideration, we adopted, runs parallel to tlie routis known to us by the writings of many travellers, hut extends as far as thirty miles north of the most iiorlhiirlv of them. At Rosako the i iwhich led to Msuwa Ion a stretch of beaut llawn, dipping into I ridges. Thin, shallc Ibeds or in deep narrc [stone strata on whic lin mazy curves rounc Itangles, and wind ab Ion their way towards On the 23rd, we jthree cones of Pongw lof 900 feet above the [about 800 feet highei bably 1200 feet. TIk [from Bagamoyo. Congorido, a popuh [From my hut, the ' The stockade was nev enclosure. The drin] long search, somethii Isliort distance to the Mfuteh, the next "\ lenclosed constructioi tecture of Unyamwez: to flourish, and in th< borassus, and fan-pa' westward of Congor able alkali, and it i favourable to the gr timid and euspicious I towards the north. Westward of Mfu lor southern bank of 1 iknks are fringed wi1 beyond these ex ten ON THE MARCH, 89 At Rosako the route began to diverge from that [which led to Msuwa and Simba-Mwenui, and opened out Ion a stretch of beautiful park land, green as an English llawn, dipping into lovely vales, and rising into gentle Iridges. Thin, shallow threads of water in furrow-like Ibeds or in deep narrow ditches, which expose the sand- Istone strata on which the fat ochreous soil rests, run lin mazy curves round forest clumps, or through jungle Itangles, and wind about among the higher elevations, |on their way towards the Wami river. On the 23rd, we halted at the base of one of the [three cones of Pongwe, at a village situated at an altitude [of 900 feet above the sea. The lesser Pongwe cone rises [about 800 feet higher than the village, the greater pro- [bably 1200 feet. Tlie pedometers marked forty-six miles [from Bagamoyo. . '. t . ; Corjgorido, a populous village, was reached on the 24th. [From my hut, the Pongwe hills were in clear view. The stockade was newly built, and was a good defensive lenclosure. The drinking-water was brackish, but, after long search, something more potable was discovered a I short distance to the south-east. Mfuteh, the next village, was another strong, newly lenclosed construction after the pattern of the archi- tecture of Unyamwezi. The baobab, at this height, began to flourish, and in the depressions of the land the doum, borassus, and fan-palm were very numerous. The soil westward of Congorido, I observed, contains consider- able alkali, and it is probable that this substance is favourable to the growth of palms. The villagers are timid and suspicious. Lions are reported to abound Howards the north. Westward of Mfuteli, we travelled along the right lor southern bank of the Wami for about four miles. Its banks are fringed with umbrageous wooded borders, and beyond these extends an interesting country. The 1874. Nor. 23. Pongwe. 1874. Nov. 29. Rubuti. 90 Tniiouon the babe continent. colossal peak of Kidiidu rears its lofty crown to great height, and forms a conspicuous landniarlj towering above its less sublime neiglibours of NgiiriiJ about fifteen or twenty miles north of the Wami'sj course. From Mfuteh to Rubuti, a village on the Lugumbwal creek, which we reached on the 29th, game is numerous, but the landscape differs little from that descriLel above. We crossed the Wami three times in one marcli, the fords being only 2 J feet deep. Granite bouldeiJ protruded above the surface, and the boiling-point ;it one of the fords showed a considerable height above the sea. At one of the fords there was a curious suspension bridge over the river, constructed of llianes with great ingenuity by the natives. The banks were at this point 16 feet high above the river, and from bank to bank the distance was only 30 yards : it was evident, therefore, that the river must be a dangerous torrent] during the rainy season. The road thence, skirting a range of mountains, leadsl across numerous watercourses and some very clear rivers — one, the Mkindo, near Mvomero, being ai beautiful stream, and the water of which I thouglit very invigorating. I certainly imagined I felt iiil excellent spirits the whole of the day after I had taken a deep draught of it ! On the 3rd of December, we came to the ^rknmli river, a tributary of the AVami, which divides Nguru country from Usagara. Simba-Mwenni, or SimLa- Miunyi — the Lion Lord — not the famous man fartlier south — owns five villages in this neighbourhood, lie was generous, and gratified us with a gift of a sheep, some flour, and plantains, accepting v/ith pleasure some cloth in return. The Wa-Nguru speak the same dialect as the Wase- guhha and Wasagara, and affect the same ornaments, THE nUNTIN eing fond of black Jhey split the lobes Lions things as the If wood to extend lliings are worn roi liorns, small brass jlue Kaniki and ' favourite cloths in tlj (faces with ochre, and, [iftlie Wanyamwezi, diich are adorned v iir red beads of the la Grand and impress iiarch to Makubika, Lttain an altitude of ' iind knolls rise in all ]fr to the eastern : [lie summits of Uk iBJopes famous for t QOimtain characteris 3ow " has a small, c peaks or mountain ci side. Indeed, some j |iboimd in scenery bo Between Maraboya by the resemblance Others that I had se( pbuiiJant, flowing < oiirces. As we ncan lelield dotted over e'^ often frightened 1 Tamasai, have been [lie first time, cattL vesterly from Bagan By a gradual asce] utangeh, we reache THE nUNTING-QROUNDS OF EITANGEH. eing fond of black and white beads and brass wire. 1874. rbey split the lobes of tlieir ears, and introduce such ^^^' *" furious things as the necks of gourds or round disks hf wood to extend the gash. A medley of strange Ihings are worn round the neck, such as tiny goats' lioriis, small brass chains, and large egg-like beads. [5lue Kauiki and the red-barred Barsati are the Ifavoiirite cloths in this region. The natives dye their faces with ochre, and, probably influenced by the example ktlie AVanyamwezi, dress their hair in long ringlets, vliich are adorned with pendicles of copper, or white \\ red beads of the large Sam-sam pattern. Griand and impressive scenery meets the eye as we aarch to Makubika, the next settlement, where we jittain an altitude of 2675 feet above the ocean. Peaks (ind knolls rise in all directions, for we are now ascend- ]£: to the eastern front of the Karruru mountains. [lie summits of Ukamba are seen to the north, its klopes famous for the multitude of elephants. The Qoimtain characteristically called the " Back of the Bow" has a small, clear lake near it, and remarkable peaks or mountain crests break the sky line on every iide. Indeed, some parts of this great mountain range tiboimd in scenery both picturesque and sublime. Between Mamboya and Kitangeh, I was much struck by the resemblance that many of the scenes bear to btliers that I had seen in the Alleghanics. Water is nbundant, flowing clear as crystal from numerous |Boiirces. As we neared eastern Kitangeh, villages were iielield dotted over every hill, the inhabitants of which, Ieo often frightened by inroads of the ever marauding I'amasai, have been rendered very timid. Here, for |tlie first time, cattle were observed as we travelled Westerly from Bngamoyo. By a gradual ascent from the fine pastoral basin of ptangeh, we reached the spine of a hill at 4490 feet, 1874. Dec. 4. Eitangeh. 92 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. and beheld an extensive plain, stretching north-west and west, with browsing herds of noble game. Camping on its verge, between a humpy hill and some rocky knolls, near a beautiful pond of crystal-clear water, I pro- ceeded with my gun-bearer, Billali, and the notorious Msenna, in tlie hope of bringing down something for the Wangwana, and was heartily encouraged thereto by Frank and Ted Pocock, 1 -^::^ . : -i-i ggga 1 VIEW FROM THE VILLAGE OF MAMBOYA. The plain was broader than I had judged it 1\v the eye from the crest of the hill whence we liad first sighted it. It was not until we had walked briskly over a long stretch of tawny grass, crushed by sheer force through a brambly jungle, and trampled down a path through clumps of slender cane stalb, that we came at last in view of a small herd of zebias. These animals are so quick of scent and ear, and ^o vigilant with their eyes, that, across an open space, it INTERVIEWED BY LIONS. is most difficult to stalk them. But by dint of tre- mendous exertion, I contrived to approach within 250 yards, taking advantage of every thin tussock of grass, ind, almost at random, fired. One of the herd leaped from the ground, galloped a few short maddened strides, and then, on a sudden, staggered, kneeled, trembled, and fell over, its legs kicking the air. Its companions whinnied shrilly for their mate, and, presently wheeling in circles with graceful motion, advanced nearer, still whinnying, until I dropped another with a crushing ball through the head — much against my wish, for I think zebras were created for better purpose than to be eaten. The remnant of the herd vanished, and the bull-terrier "Jack," now unleash"'^ was in an instant glorying in his first strange prizes. How the rogue plunged his teeth in their throats ! with what ardour he pinned them by the nose ! and soon bathing himself in blood, he appeared to be the very Dog of Murder, a miracle of rabid ferocity. Billali, requested to run to camp to procure Wangwana to carry the meat to camp, was only too happy, knowing what brave cheers and hearty congratulations would greet him. Msenna was already busy skinning one of the animals, some 300 yards from me ; Jack was lying at my feet, watchful of the dead zebra on which I was seated, and probably calculating, so I supposed, how large a share would fall to him for his assistance in seizing the noble quarry by the nose, I was fast becoming absorbed in a mental picture of what might possibly lie behind the northern mountain barrier of the plain, when Jack sprang up and looked southward. Turning my head, I made out the form of some tawny animal, that was advancing with a curious long step, and I recognized it to be a lion. I motioned to Msenna, who happened to be looking up, and beckoned him. 1874. Dec. 4, Kitangeh. 94 THE UGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. D<5c. 4. Kitangeh. ** What do you tliink it is, Msenna T* I asked. | "Simba (a lion), master," lie answered. Finding my own suspicions verified, we both lay I down, and prepared our rifles. Two explosive bulletd were slipj)ed into an elephant rifle, and I felt sure with the perfect rest which the body of the zebra gave for the rifle, that I could drop anything living larger than a cat at the distance of 100 yards; so I awaited his approach with composure. The animal advanced to within 300 yards, and then, giving a I quick bound as though surprised, stood still. Shortly afterwards, after a deliberate survey, he turned sLarpI round and trotted off into a low shrubby jungle, about 800 yards away. Ten minutes elapsed, audi then as many animals emerged from the same spot into which the other had disappeared, and approached us in stately column. But it being now dusk, I could | not discern them very clearly. We both were, however, quite sure in our own minds that they were lions, oil at any rate some animals so like them in the twilight that we could not imagine them to he anything else. When the foremost had come within 100 yards, I fired. It sprang up and fell, and the others disappeared with a dreadful rush. We now heard shouts behind us, for the Wangwana had come; so, taking one or two I with me, I endeavoured to discover what I felt sure to be a prostrate lion, but it could not be found. It occupied us some time to skin and divide our game, and as the camp was far, we did not reach it until 9 P.M., when, of course, we received a sincere welcome | from people hungry for meat. The next day Manwa Sera went out to hunt for tliel lion-skin, but returned after a long search with only a strong doubt in his mind as to its having been a lion, and a few reddish hairs to prove that it was something which had been eaten by hyenas. This I THE SCENE OF A MUEBER. 95 ^ay I succeeded in shooting a small antelope of the I &pringhok kind. We crossed the plain on the 11th December, and arrived at Tubugwe. It is only six miles in width, but within this distance we counted fourteen human skulls, the mournful relics of some unfortunate tra- Ivellers, slain by an attack of Wahumba from the i Dorih-west. I think it is beyond doubt that this plain, extending, as it does, from the unexplored north-west, and projecting like a bay into a deep mountain fiord south-east of our road, must in former times have been an inlet or creek of the great reservoir of which the Ugombo lake, south of here, is a residuum. The bed of this ancient lake now forms the pastoral plains of the Wahumba, and the broad plain-like expanses I visible in the Ugogo country. Rounding the western extremity of a hilly range I near the scene of our adventures, we followed a valley till it sloped into a basin, and finally narrowed to a ravine, along the bottom of which runs a small brackish stream. A bed of rock-salt was discovered on the [opposite side. Two miles farther, at the base of a hilly cone, we I arrived at a wooded gully, where very clear and fresh water is found, and from which the path runs west, gradually rising along the slope of a hill until it ter- minates in a pass 3700 feet above sea-level, whence the basin of Tubugwe appears in view, enclosing twenty- five square, stockaded villages and many low hills, and patched with cultivated fields. A gentle descent of about 400 feet brought us to our camp, on the banks of a small tributary of the Mukondokwa. On the 12th December, twenty-five days' march from iBagamoyo, we arrived at Mpwapwa. TliG region traversed from the eastern slopes of that [broad range which we began to skirt soon after passing 1874. Dec. 11. Tubugwe. THROUQE TEE DARK CONTINENT, 1874. to the left bank of the Wami river, as far as Chunyu (a «c. 12. £g^ miles west of Mpwap^ a), comprises the extreniol * breadth of the tract distinguished in the work, * How I found Livingstone,* as the Usagara mountains. The rocks are of the older class, gneiss and schists, but in several localities granite protrudes, besides humpy dykes of trap. From the brackish stream east of Tubugwe, as far as Mpwapwa, there are also several dykes of! a feldspathic rock, notably one that overlooks the basia of Tubuo:we. The various clear streams coursin? towards the Mukondokwa, as we dipped and rose over the highest points of the mountains among which the path led us, reveal beds of granite, shale J and rich brown porphyritic rock, while many loose boulders of a granitic character lie strewn on each side, either standing up half covered with clambering plants in precarious positions upon a denuded base, or lying bare in the beds of the stream, exposed to the action of the running water. Pebbles also, lodged on small shelves of rock in the streams, borne thither by their force during rainy seasons, attest the nature of the formations higher up their course. Among] these, we saw varieties of quartz, porphyry, greenstone, dark grey shale, granite, hematite, and purple jasper,] chalcedony, and other gravels. The rock-salt discovered has a large mass exposed to I the action of the stream. In its neighbourhood is a greyish tufa, also exposed, with a brown mossy parasite running in threads over its face. Wood is abundant in large clumps soon after passing I Kikoka, and this feature of the landscape obtains as for as Congorido. The "Wami has a narrov/ fringe of palms on either bank; while, thinly scattered in the plains and less fertile parts, a low scrubby brushwood, of the acacia species, is also seen, but nowhere dense, Along the base and slopes of the mountains, and in its deep valleys, largo at times, even int( however, are clot |lierl){ige. Mpwapwa has als |lnr2;est being the ta: kubab. The colle tiiis title lies widel ^^>&" OUR CAMP AT Jlpwapwa stream, a range of mountai from Chunyu to \Jq ft appeared to be on ft is simply the nor fu the great mou plbvssinia, or even I'^^pe. At the extrer loui the vrestern sii P^jur miles from Mpv VOL. I. MPWAPWA. 97 deep valleys, large trees are very numerous, massing, i,s74. at times, even into forests. The extreme summits, ^^'"'' ^"" however, are clothed with only grass and small ^"^*^'^''** |liL'il)age. Mpwapwa has also some fine trees, but no forest ; the hrs^Gst being the tamarind, sycamore, Cottonwood, and Ikiubab. The collection of villages denominated by Itiiis title lies widely scattered on either side of the ■^^.^'■ ^- 'A^ ~_ - " ' - - - ' "~_*^^^ '■^m^^m .S«W ■* '-V,!;: '. . ' .jr.' " ie-_- '^'7^\^^'-- ^^^?i^ ?^s>rff* OUR CAMP AT MFWAPWA. (^t'rom a ithoto(jraph.') Mpwapwa stream, at the base of the southern slope of range of mountains that extends in a sinuous line pom Chunyu to Ugombo. I call it a range because t appeared to be one from Mpwapwa ; but in reality [t is simply the northern flank of a deep indentation fii tlie great mountain chain that extends from Ubvssinia, or even Suez, down to the Cape of Good 'f'pe. At the extreme eastern point of this indentation I'Om the western side lies Lake Ugombo, just twenty- pur miles from Mpwapwa, VOL, I. a 98 THIiOtrOE THE DAEK CONTINENT. 1874. Dec. 12. Mpw ipwo. Desertions from the expedition had been frequentj At first, Kacheche', the chief detective, and his guiii^ oj four men, who had received their instructions to follov us a day's journey behind, enabled me to recapture sixteen of the deserters ; but tlie cunning Wangwaiia| and Wanyamwezi soon discovered this resource mine against their well-known freaks, and, instead striking east in their departure, absconded either southl or north of the track. We then had detectives postiJ long before dawn, several hundred yards away froml the camp, who were bidden to lie in wait in the Lusli, until the expedition had started, and in this maniiei) we succeeded in repressing to some extent the dispositioiJ to desert, and arrested very many men on the point ol escaping ; but even this was not adequate. Fifty Lad abandoned us before reaching Mpwapwa, taking witlJ them the advances they had received, and often tlieiiT guns, on which our safety might depend. Several feeble men and women also had to be leftl behind, and it was evident that the very wariesJ methods failed to bind the people to their duties. TliJ best of treatment and abundance of provisions dailj distributed were alike insufficient to induce such faitliles natures to be loyal. However, we persisted, and aa often as we failed in one way, we tried another. Had! all these men remained loyal to their contract and promises, we should have been too strong for any forcel to attack uS; as our numbers must necessarily have commanded respect in lands and among tribes wlierel only power is respected. One day's march from Mpwapwa, the route skirtings broad arm of the Marenga Mkali desert, which leads tii the Ugombo lake, brought us to Chunyu — an expose and weak settlement, overlooking the desert or wilder-j ness separating Usagara from Ugogo. Close to ou right towered the Usagara mountains, and on ou AC. left stretched the in Fifteen or twenty n Ivast cluster of Rub( The water at Ch Itaste. The natives -^ [attacks from the Wal Ito tlie north have re Ipelled them to seek ] On the IGth De camp, and at an e: |\vilderness, and at 7 entered Ugogo, cam Ij'rontier village of K (moderate pace, we ( Itook shelter under a i listant from the chie The fields, now de jungle which is the ( ness of Marenga Mkf clear view of a bi break its monotony solitary baobab, som( diich the inhabitani battle or flock of go pom the scanty herl Itlie distance on eithe] Kikombo, or Chikc )id of 2475 feet. G ascertained on arrivi llo be the eastern hori beams flowing sou [rend north. We marched und< tillage ; and throug |lie heat at Itumbi re |)four arrival, the sk ACROSS THE WASTE f 99 [left stretched the inhospitahle arm of the wilderness. iFifteeri or twenty miles distant to the south rose the Ivast cluster of Rubeho's cones and peaks. The water at Chunyu is nitrous and bitter to the [taste. The natives were once prosperous, but repeated [attacks from the Wahehe to the south and the AVahumba |to tlie north have reduced them in numbers, and com- Ipelled them to seek refuge on the hill-summits. On the IGth December, at early dawn, we struck camp, and at an energetic pace descended into the IwilJernesR, and at 7 p.m. the vanguard of the expedition entered Ugogo, camping two or three miles from the frontier village of Kikombo. The next day, at a more aoderate pace, we entered the populated district, and took shelter under a mighty baobab a few hundred yards iistant from the chiefs village. The fields, now denuded of the dwarf acacia and gum tiunde which is the characteristic feature of the wilder- oess of Marenga Mkali and its neighbourhood, gave us clear view of a broad bleak plain, with nothing to break its monotony to the jaundiced eye save a few solitary baobab, some square wattled enclosures within diich the inhabitants live, and an occasional herd of bttle or flock of goats that obtain a poor subsistence pm the scanty herbage. A few rocky hills rise in lllie distance on either hand. Kikombo, or Chikombo, stands at an altitude by ane- )id of 2475 feet. The hills proved, as we afterwards ascertained on arriving at Itumbi, Sultan Mpamira's, [o be the eastern horn of the watershed that divides the beams flowing south to the Rufiji from those that trend north. We marched under a very hot sun to Mpamira's tillage ; and through the double cover of the tent [lie heat at Itumbi rose to 96° Fahr. Within an hour Dfour arrival, the sky, as usual in this season, became H 2 1874. Dec. 16. Ugoga. 100 THROUOn TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. Dec. 23. Dudoma. overcast, the weather suddenly became cold, and tin thermometer descended to 69° Fahr., \/hile startlino claps of tliunder echoed among the hills, accompanicj by vivid flashes of lightning. About three miles to the south-west, we observed a thick fog, and l:m\\\ that rain was falling, but we only received a fewj drops. Half an hour later, a broad and dry sandyl stream-bed, in which we had commenced to dig for[ water, was transformed into a swift torrent L^l inches deep and 50 yards wide, the general directionl of which was north by east. Within two or tlireel hours, there were only a few gentle threads of water! remaining ; the torrent had subsided as quickly as it| had risen. On our road to Leehumwa, we passed over a greyisli calcareous tufo. On either side of us rise hills bare oj soil, presenting picturesque summits, some of wl: are formed by upright masses of yellow feldspar,! coloured by the presence of iron and exposure to| weather. The next settlement, Dudoma, is situated on a level terrace to the north of the hills which form the water- shed, and from its base extends, to the unknoml north, the great plain of Uhumba, a dry, arid, arnll inhospitable region, but covered with brushwood, a abandoned to elephants, lions, large game, and intract-| able natives. The rainy season began in earnest on the 23rd o| December, while we halted at Dudoma, and next day! we struggled through a pelting storm, during an eiglitl miles' march to Zingeh, the plain of which we fouuill already half submerged by rushing yellow streams. The following sketch is a portion of a private letterl to a friend, written on Christmas Day at Zingeh : — " I anil in a centre-pole tent, seven by eight. As it rained alll day yesterday, the tent was set over wet grouuJif DISMAL jREFLECTIOXS, 101 diicli, by the passing in and out of the servants, was )n trampled into a thick pasty mud bearing the traces of toes, heels, shoe nails, and dogs' paws. The ^ent walls are disfigured by large splashes of mud, land the tent corners hang down limp and languid, and there is such an air of forlornness and misery about its lery set that it increases ray own misery, already neat at the sight of the doughy, muddy ground with its uddlets and strange hieroglyphic traceries and prints. sit on a bed raised about a foot above the sludge, mournfully reflecting on my condition. Outside, the people have evidently a fellow feeling with me, for they appear to me like beings with strong suicidal intentions or perhaps they mean to lie still, inert until death re- llieves them. It has been raining heavily the last two or |tliree days, and an impetuous downpour of sheet rain iias just ceased. On the march, rain is very disagreeable ; Et makes the clayey path slippery, and the loads heavier \)Y being saturated, while it half ruins the cloths. It ■makes us dispirited, wet, and cold, added to which we are llmngry — for there is a famine or scarcity of food at tliis peasoii, and therefore we can only procure half-rations. Hie native store of grain is consumed during the months of May, June, July, August, September, October, and November. By December, the planting month, ^liere is but little grain left, and for what we are jle to procure, we must pay about ten times the ordinary price. The natives, owing to improvidence, |liiive but little left. I myself have not had a piece of meat for ten days. My food is boiled rice, tea, liind coffee, and soon I shall be reduced to eating Jiiative porridge, like my own people. I weighed jlSOlbs. when I left Zanzibar, but under this diet I have been reduced to 134 lbs. within thirty-eight days. Ihe young Englishmen are in the same impoverished condition of body, and unless we reach some more 187+. Dec. 2i, Ziogeh. 102 TEHOUOE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. Dec. 26. Jiweni. flourisliing country than famine-stricken Ugogo, we must soon become mere skeletons. " Besides the terribly wet weather and the scarcity ofl food from which we suffer, we are compelled to undergo I the tedious and wearisome task of haggling wi ii extortionate chiefs over the amount of black-mail which they demand, and which we must pay. We are compelled, as you may perceive, to draw heavy drafts on the virtues of prudence, patience, and resignation, without which the transit of Ugogo, under suclil conditions as above described, would be most perilous, Another of my dogs, * Nero/ the retriever, is dead.| Alas ! all will die." The next camp westward from Zingeh which wei established was at Jiweni, or the Stones, at an altitude above sea-level of 3150 feet; crossing on our march three streams with a trend southerly to the Rufiji. Formerly there had been a settlement here, but in one of the raids of the Wahumba it had been swept awav, leaving only such traces of man's occupation as broken pottery, and shallow troughs in the rocks caused pro-l bably by generations of female grinders of corn. Through a scrubby jungle, all of which in past times! had been cultivated, we marched from the '' Stones" to Kitalalo, the chief of which place became very friendlv with me, and, to mark his delight at my leading a| caravan to his country— the first, he hoped, of manv more — he presented a fat ox to the Wangwana Wanyamwezi. The outskirts of Kitalalo are choked with growths ofl acacia, tamarisk, and gum, while clusters of doum palm« are numerous. Further west stretches the broad plain of Mizanza and Mukondoku, with its deceitful mirage,] Ljrbless and treeless expanse, and nitrous water. One Somali youth, Mohammed, deserted just eastward | of Kitalalo, and was never afterwards heard of. and Early on the 29t Ison, we emerged fror Idoum palms, and a s land almost level Sal [to the south of the Inorth. The hilly range o Ion the west ever sin I extends from Usekki I natural boundary ac' I Ugogo from Uyanzi- Ito be called. The si imperceptible to th( drained by the Rui plain is twenty mile at fifty miles. The: Not a drop of wat( towards the latter p shower fell which i I the plain into a qua On approaching t I tains about a hund always bellicose na uplifted spears and gereiit exhibition di 'were strangers and After manifesting [boasts and much fri a moro pacific deme I quietly to our camp kino;'s village. This king's name Masumami of Kital is crafty and uns^ tribute on travellert the smallest present THE SALINA, 103 Mukoadoka Early on the 29 th December, guided by Kitalalo's 1874. [son, we emerged from our camp under the ever rustling ^^'^' ^^* doum palms, and a short mile brought us to the broad and almost level Salina, which stretches from Mizanza to the south of the track to the hills of Unyangwira, [north. The hilly range or upland wall which confronted us ion the west ever since we left the " Stones," and which extends from Usekke northwards to Machenche, is the natural boundary accepted by the natives as separating Ugogo from Uyanzi — or Ukimbu, as it is now beginning to be called. The slope of the Salina, though slight and imperceptible to the eye, is southerly, and therefore drained by the Rufiji. The greatest breadth of this plain is twenty miles, and its length may be estimated at fifty miles. The march across it was vei'y fatiguing. Not a drop of water was discovered en routes though towards the latter part of the journey a grateful rain- shower fell which revived the caravan, but converted I the plain into a quagmire. On approaching the Mukondoku district, which con- I tains about a hundred small villages, we sighted the lahvays bellicose natives advancing upon our van with juplil'ted spears and noisy show of war. This belli- Igereiit exhibition did not disturb our equanimity, as we [were strangers and had given no cause for hostilities. After manifesting their prowess by a few harmless boasts and much frantic action, they soon subsided into a moio pacific demeanour, and permitted us io proceed quietly to our camp under a towering baobab near the kinf>;'s village. This king's name is Chalula, and he is a brother of Masumami of Kitalalo. Unlike his nobler brother, he is crafty and unscrupulous, and levies extortionate tribute on travellers, for which he never deigns to send the smallest present in return. His people are numerous, 104 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1874. Dec. 29. Mukondoku, strong, and bold, and, sharing the overweening priJe of their king, are prone to insolence and hostility upon the slightest cause. Being so powerful, he is cordially detested by his royal brothers of Kiwyeh, Khonko, and Mizanza. We experienced therefore much difficulty! in preserving the peace, as his people would insist upon filling the camp, and prying into every tent and hut. A conspiracy was discovered at this place, by whicli fifty men, who had firmly resolved to abscond, were pre- vented from carrying out their intention by my securing the ringleaders and disarming their deluded followers Twenty men were on the sick list, from fever, sore feet, ophthalmia, and rheumatism. Five succeeded in desert- ing with their guns and accoutrements, and two men were left at Mukondoku almost blind. Indeed, to record our daily mischances and our losses up to this date in full detail would require half of this volume; but these slight hints will suffice to show that the journey ol an expedition into Africa is beset with troubles and disaster. Frank and Edward Pocock and Frederick Barker rendered me invaluable services while endeavouring to harmonize the large, unruly mob with its many eccen- tric and unassimilating natures. Quarrels were frequent, sometimes even dangerous, between various members of the Expedition, and at such critical moments only did my personal interference become imperatively necessary. What with taking solar observations and making ethnological notes, negotiating with chiefs about the tribute moneys and attending on the sick, my time was occupied from morning until night. In addition to all this strain on my own physical powers, I was myself frequently sick from fever, and wasted from lack of proper, nourishing food ; and if the chief of an expedition be thus distressed, it may readily be A PRINCE lelieved that the poo llso. Having received o llukondoku, on the {nrth, thus leaving [jiiyanyembe, the co Africa. We were Lland wall, or hilly lijihted westward froi Lnected several Wa |o the European e;^ lerds of humped sh( Ind goats, with man; [lie young women w Ltures, well-formed jind graceful forms. ^Ve — the Europear ktives as though tl hlie Unyanyembe roac romen extended to Ikeir villages, and hs |o become their bloc U of the chief of ^. nijiht, and begged n friend," which he ha^ of new milk, still veleome present was nth a great green Istem banded in silve nth which he was s traotions of gratitu land dilated eyes, an< |iny hand. By sor cowhide, he predic Itlie right sandal, kpward, each tim( A PRINCE TELLS MY FORTUNE. 105 llieved that tlie poor fellows depending on him suffer 1875. Having received our guides from Chalula, king of llukondoku, on the 1st January 1875 we struck jinrth, thus leaving for the first time the path to lyanyembe, the common highway of East Central Ifrica. We were skirting ti;' eastern base of the Uand wall, or hilly range (whi^h, as I have said, we lighted westward from the ** Stones"), by a path which Unected several Wahumba villages. Though humble jo the European eye, these villages owned several herds of humped short-horned cattle, flocks of sheep Ind goats, with many strong asses and dogs. Some of [lie young women were unusually pretty, with regular tatures, well-formed noses, thin, finely chiselled lips, |ind graceful forms. We — the Europeans — were as great curiosities to the Datives as though they lived hundreds of miles from klie Unyanyembe road. Each of the principal men and romen extended to us pressing invitations to stop in Itheir villages, and handsome young chiefs entreated us ko become their blood-brothers. Young Keelusu, the p of the chief of Mivenna, even came to my camp at night, and begged me to accept a '* small gift from a friend," which he had brought. This gift was a gallon of new milk, still warm from the udder. Such a ftelcome present was reciprocated with a gilt bracelet, cith a great green crystal set in it, a briarwood pipe, Istem banded in silver, a gilt chain, and a Soliari cloth, fith which he was so overjoyed as almost to weep. His emotions of gratitude were visible in the glistening land dilated eyes, and felt in the fervent grasp he gave Iniy hand. By some magic art with his sandals of cowhide, he predicted success to my journey. As Itlie right sandal, after being tossed three times [upward, each time turned upside down, my good 106 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. " THE FLOOD 1875. Jan. 2. Mtiwi. health and well-being, he said, were assured, witliout a doubt. The next halt was made at Mtiwi, the chief of whicl) was Malewa. The aneroid here indicated an altitude of 2825 feet. Our faithless Wagogo guides having deserted us, we marched a little distance farther north, and ascended the already described " upland wall," where the aneroid at our camp indicated a height ol 3800 feet — or about 950 feet above the plain on wliicli Mtiwi, Mwenna, and Mukondoku are situated. The last night at Mtiwi was a disturbed one. Tlie " floodgates of heaven " seemed literally opened for a period. After an hour's rainfall, 6 inches of water covered our camp, and a slow current ran southerly. I Every member of the expedition was distressed, and even the Europeans, lodged in tents, were not exempted! from the evils of the night. My tent walls enclosed a little pool, banked by boxes of stores and amraunitioii. | Hearing cries outside, I lit a candle, and my astoiiisli- ment was great to find that my bed vas an island in a I shallow river, which, if it increased in depth and curient, would assuredly carry me off south towards the Riifiji. My walking-boots were miniature barks, floating to and fro on a turbid tide seeking a place of exit to the dark world of waters without. My guns, laslied to the centre pole, were stock deep in water. But the most comical sight was presented by Jack and Bull, perched back to back on the top of an ammunition-box, buttiiiq each other rearward, and snarling and growling for| that scant portion of comfort. In the morning, I discovered my fatigue cap several I yards outside the tent, and one of my boots sailing down south. The harmonium, a present for Mtesa, al large quantity of gunpowder, tea, rice, and sugar, were! destroyed. Vengeance appeared to have overtaken iis.| At 10 A.M. the sun appeared, astonished no doubt atl ''THE FLOOD-GATES OF HEAVEN'' OPENED. 107 a new lake formed during his absence. By noon the water had considerably decreased, and permitted us to march, and with glad hearts we surmounted the upland of Uyanzi, and from our busy camp, on the afternoon of the 4th January, gazed upon the spacious plain beneath, and the vast broad region of sterility and thorns which we had known as inhospitable Ugogo. On the upland which we were now about to traverse, we had arrived at an elevation which greatly altered the character of the vegetation. On the plain of Ugogo flourish only dwarf bush, a mongrel and degenerate variety of the noble trees growing in Uyanzi, consist- ing of acacia, rank-smelling gum-trees, and euphorbias. Here we have the stately myombo or African ash. This tree grows on the loftier ridges and high uplands, flourishing best on loose ferruginous soil. It utterly rejects the rich alluvium, as well as the sandy loam. Where the tree assumes its greatest height and girth, we may be sure also that not far oif strange freaks of rock will be found in the bosom of the forest, such as gigantic square bldcks of granite, of the magnitude of cottages, and at a distance reminding the traveller of [miniature castles and other kinds of human dwellings. Large sheets of hematite and gneiss denuded of soil are ako cliaracteristics of this plateau, while still another feature is a succession of low and grandly swelling I ridges, or land-waves. On our road to Muhalala, we met hundreds of fugitives I fleeing from the battle-grounds near Kirurumo, the natives of w^hich were being harassed by Nyungu, son of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, for expressing sympathy hvith Mirambo, the warrior chief of Western Unyam* Iwezi. Muhalala is a small settlement of Wakimbu, the I chief of which declares he owes a nominal allegiance to Malewa of Mtiwi. Procuring guides here, on the 1875. Jau. 4. UyanzL ..•^p^' 108 TEROUQE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. 6th January we ascended a ridge, its face rough witlil many a block of iron ore, and a scabby grey rock,! on which torrents and rains had worked wonderful! ^ changes, and within two hours arrived at KashongwaJ a village situated on the verge of a trackless wild, peopled by a mixture of Wasukuma, renegade Wan- gwana, and Wanyamwezi. We were informed by I officious Wangwana, who appeared glad to meet their countrymen, that we were but two days' march from Urimi. As they had no provisions to sell, and each man and woman had two days' rations, we resumed our journey, accompanied by one of them as a guide, alonf a road which, they informed us, would take us the dav after to Urimi, and, after two hours, camped near a I small pool. The next day we travelled over a plain which had ai gradual uplift towards the north-west, and was covered with dense, low bush. Our path was ill-defined, as only small Wagogo caravans travelled to Urimi, but the guide assured us that he knew the road. In this dense bush there was not one large tree. It formed a vast carpet of scrub and brush, tall enough to permit us to force our way among the lower branches, which were so interwoven one with another that it sickens me almost to write of this day's experience. Though our maicli| was but ten miles, it occupied us as many hours of labour, elbowing and thrusting our way, to the inniry of our I bodies and the detriment of our clothing. We camped at 5 P.M. near another small pool, at an altitude of 4350 feet above the sea. The next day, on the afternoon of the 8th, we should have reached Urimi, and, in order to be certain of doing so, marched fourteen miles to| still another pool at a height of 4550 feet above sea- level. Yet still we saw no limit to this immense bush- field, and our labours had, this day, been increased! t^^niold. Our guide had lost the path early in the TEE PATH LOST ! ^ .^ 109 day, and was innocently leading us in an easterly direction ! The responsibility of leading a half starved expedition —as ours now certainly was — through a dense bush, without knowing whither or for how many days, was great ; but I was compelled to undertake it rather than see it wander eastward, where it would be hopeless to expect provisions. The greater number of our people kd consumed their rations early in the morning. I bad led it northward for hours, when we came to a large tree to the top of which I requested the guide to ascend, to try if he could recognize any familiar feature in the dreary landscape. After a short exa- mination, he declared he saw a ridge that he knew, near which, he said, was situate the 'village of Uveri- veri. This news stimulated our exertions, and, myself leading the van, we travelled briskly until 5 p.m., when we arrived at the third pool. Meantime Barker and the two Pococks, assisted by twenty chiefs, were bringing up the rear, and we never suspected for a moment that the broad track which we trampled over grass and through bush would be un- perceived by those in rear of us. The Europeans and chiefs, assisted by the reports of heavily loaded muskets, were enabled to reach camp successfully at 7 p.m. ; but the chiefs then reported that there had not arrived a party of four men, and a donkey boy who was leading an ass loaded with coffee. Of these, however, there was no fear, as they had detailed the chief Simba to oversee them, Simba having a reputation among his fellows for fidelity, courage, and knowledge of travel. The night passed, and the morning of the 9 th dawned, and I anxiously asked about the absentees. Tliey had not arrived. But as each hour in the jungle added to the distress of a still greater number of people, we moved on to tLe miserable little village of Uveriveri. 1875. Jan. 8. Uveriveri. i^-"i 'I 110 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Jan. 9. Uveriveri. The inhabitants consisted of only two families, whJ could iiot spare us one grain ! ^ ^e might as well luvi remained in the jungle, for no sustenance couM procured here. In this critical position, many lives hanging on m\ decision, I resolved to despatch forty of the strongest men — ten chiefs and thirty of the boldest youths — to Suna in Urimi, for the villagers of Uveriveri had of couid given us the desired information as to our whereaboiitsj The distance from Uveriveri to Suna was twenty-eigli miles, as we subsequently discovered. Pinched witlJ hunger themselves, the forty volunteers advanced witli the resolution to reach Suna that night. They were inj structed to purchase 800 lbs. of grain, which would give a light load of 20 lbs. to each man, and urged to returii as quickly as possible, for the lives of their women and friends depended on their manliness. Manwa Sera was also despatched with a party d twenty to hunt up the missing men. Late in tin afternoon they returned with the news that three ofl the miss'ng men were dead. They had lost the roadj and, travelling along an elephant track, had struggled on till they perished, of despair, hunger, and exhaustion.! Simba and the donkey-boy, the ass and its load of coifee, were never seen or heard of again. With the sad prospect of starvation impending over us, we were at various expedients to sustain life until| the food purveyors should return. Early on the morning of the 10th, I travelled far and searched every likely place for game, but though tracks were numerous, we failed to sight a single head. The Wan-I gwana also roamed about the forest — for the Uveriveiij ridge was covered with fine myombo trees — in search of edible roots and berries, and examined various trees tol discover whether they afforded anything that couldl allay the grievous and bitter pangs of hunger. Somol BAVED \\m a putrid elephj jives, and were pun libers found a lion's fcey brought to me. ] L medical stores, an |officient oatmeal to g: juel. A " Torquay once emptied of ^llons of water, into lid four 1-lb. tins of leople, middle-aged a ^iiiik, and heaped oil the quicker 1 He brae calamity shouh was ready, for the |atisfied they seemed a liiit they received, an IGolI " for his mercies At 9 P.M., as we w jiint sound of a gun, £ [e all knew then that lot very far from us. he bold and welcome jist enough millet-se( Ileal. This the peo Imanded that we s [iternoon, so that nex1 time to forage. Skirting the southe Cveriveri, we continue lor eight miles, when kies of lofty rocks, c lie Jiweni or " Stones 125 feet high, from tl; jiew of a green g llie north. The altiti SAVED FROM STARVATION. Ill jinna a putrid elephant, on which they gorged them- Ives, and were punished with nausea and sickness. |thers found a hon's den, with two lion whelps, which lev brought to me. Meanwhile, L rank and I examined Le medical stores, and found to our great joy we had [ificient oatmeal to give every soul two cupfuls of thin Tuel. A " Torquay dress trunk " of sheet-iron was once emptied of its contents and filled with 25 jallons of water, into whicL were put 10 lbs. of oatmeal Qd four 1 -lb. tins of '* revalenta arabica." How the eople, middle-aged and young, gathered round that ^iiiik, and heaped fuel underneath that it might oil tlie quicker ! How eagerly they watched it lest fime calamity should happen, and clamoured, when was ready, for their share, and how inexpressibly jatisfied they seemed as they tried to make the most of pat they received, and with what fervour they thanked I Go J " for his mercies ! At 9 P.M., as we were ahout to sleep, we heard the aint sound of a gun, fired deliberately three times, and je all knew then that our young men with food were lot very far from us. The next morning, ahout 7 a.m., ke bold and welcome purveyors arrived in camp with fist enough millet-seed to give each soul one good Ileal. This the people soon despatched, and then lemanded that we should resume our journey that |fternoon, so that next morning we might reach Suna time to forage. e Skirting the southern base of the wooded ridge of [;veriveri, we continued to ascend almost imperceptibly br eight miles, when we arrived at another singular eries of lofty rocks, called at once by the Wangwana lie Jiweni or " Stones." We camped near a rocky hill 25 feet high, from the summit of which I obtained a jiew of a green grassy plain stretching towards [lie north. The altitude of this camp was 5250 feet 1875. Jan. 10. Uveriveri, •' I 1 112 THJiOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 187«). Jan. 12. Sana. above sea-level. Towards night I shot a wild boar and a duck, but several of the Wangwana, being strict Mush'ms, could not be induced to eat the pork. From the " Stones '* we came to what we had called a plain from the summit, but what was really, from its mar.vhv nature, more of a quagmire. It appeared to be a great resort for elephants ; thousands of the tracks of these great animals ran in all directions. Plunging into another jungle, we reappeared, after marching twentv miles, in the cultivated fields of Suna ; and on the verge of a coppice we constructed a strong camp, whence we had a view of the *' Stones," which we lial left in the morning, no other eminences being visit above what appeared a very ocean of bush. Next morning there was a strange and peculiar air I of discontent, like a foreshadowing of trouble, amoiid the natives who appeared before our camp. They did not appear to understand us. They were seenhurryind their women and children away, and deserting tlieii villages, while others hovered r.ound our camp menacingly, carrying in their hands a prodigious quantity of arms — spears, bows and arrows, and knob- sticks. Trouble seemed imminent. To prevent it, ill possible, I stepped out to them with empty hands, motioned them to be seated, and, calling an interpreter,! likewise unarmed, I attempted to explain the nature oil our expedition and a few of its objects, one of whiclil of course was to reach Lake Victoria. To those eldersl who appeared to have most influence, I gave soinel beads, as an expression of good-will and friendship. Biitl nothing seemed to be of avail until, after close question-l ing, I ascertained that they had a grievance. Some of! the Wangwana, in their ravenous hunger, had plundered! the grain huts, and stolen some chickens. The natives! were requested to come and point out the thieveiij They did so, and pointed their fingers at Akassi, TROUBLE IMMINENT. 113 Suna. nntonoiis tliicf and gourmand. Convicted of tlie crime 1875. after a strict examination of In's quarters by Kacheclie, •'''"• ^-^-i** tlie cliief detective, Alsassi was flogged in tlieir presence, not severely, but sufiiciently to mark my SL'iise of extreme displeasure. The value of the stolen food was given to the defrauded natives, and peace and tranquillity were restored. The Warimi are the finest peoplo in physique we saw between their country and the cea. They are robust, tall, manly in bearing, and possess very regular features. As they go stark naked, we perceived that tlie males had undergone the process of circumcision. Their ornaments are cinctures of brass wire round the loiiip, armlets and leglets of brass, brass- wire collars, Ikads j)lentifully sprinkled over their hair, and about a I dozen long necklaces suspended from the neck. The war costumes which they were wearing when I had tliougbt that trouble was near were curious and various. Feathers of the kite and hawk, manes of the zebra and giratle, encircled their foreheads. Their arms consisted of portentous-looking spears, bows and yard-long arrows, and shields of rhinoceros hide. The women, I imagine, are generally a shade lighter than the men. I failed [to see in a day's examination a single flat nose or thick llip, though tliey were truly negroidal in hair and Icolour. I ought to have said that many &haved their beads, leaving only u thin wavy line over the forehead. The rolling plain of Suna was at this season utterly devoid of grains. An immense area was under cultiva- lion; clusters of small villages were sprinkled over all [lie prospect the eye embraced, and large flocks of pats and sheep and herds of cattle jtroved that they "'ere a pastoral as^ell as an agricultural people. The Warimi appear to have no chief, but submit direction by the elders, or heads of families, -who pave acquired importance by judicious alliances, and VOL. I. X ' I 114 THROUOn THE DABK CONTINENT. 1875. Jan 12-15, Sana. to whom they refer civil causes. In time of war, how- ever, as we observed the day after we arrived, they liave for their elder, one who has a military reputation. This fighting elder, to whom, I remarked, great | deference was paid, was certainly 6J feet in height. The species of Leads called Kanyera were, it seeraeJ| to me, most in favour ; brass wire was also in demand, but all cloth was rejected except the blue Kaniki. We halted four days at Suna, as our situation was I deplorable. A constantly increasing sick list, culmi- nating in the serious illness of Edward Pocock, tliei evident restlessness of the Warimi at our presence, who most certainly wished us anywhere except in their country, and yet had no excuse for driving us by force from their neighbourhood, the insufficient quantity of| food that could be purchased, and the growing- impor- tunacy of the healthy Wangwana to be led awajl from such a churlish and suspicious people, plunged! me in perplexity. We had now over thirty men ailing. Some sufferedl from dysentery, others from fever, asthma, chest diseases] and heart sickness ; lungs were weak, and rheumatismi had its victims. Edwnrd Pocock, on the afternoon ofl the day we arrived at Suna, came to me, and complainedl of pain in the loius, a throbbing in the head — which ll attributed to weariness, after our terribly long march-j and a slight fever. I suggested to him that he had betterl lie down and rest. Before I retired, I reminded FraiikJ his brother, that he should give Edward some alterativ^ medicine. The next day the young man was worse. Hii tongue was thickly coated with a dark fur, his foe fearfully pallid, and he complained of wandering pain^ in his back and knees, of giddiness and great thirst. Edministered to him sweet spirits of nitre with orangj water, and a few grains of ipecacuanha as an emeticJ The fourth day he was delirious, and we were about t*. s«2 ''"v 118 TUnOUGU TUB DAIiK CONTINENT. EXTREME 1875. Jan. 18. Cliiwyu. CnAPTER YI. From Cliiwyu to Yiiiyata — Kaif Halleck miirclercd — The magic doctor i — Giving away tlie heart — Deeds of blood — " Tlio white men are only women " — A three days' fight — Punishment of the Waiiyatiiru — The ubiquitous Mirambo — The plain of the Luwamberri— In a land of plenty — Tlirougli the open country — "I have seen tlie | lake. Sir, and it is grand ! " — Welcomed at Kagehyi. We have seen no remarkaLle feature in the landscape since we surmounted that steep wall of the upland which bounds Ugogo on the west. Near its verge, it is true, it rose in steep terraces, until finally it extended westward and northward in a broad jungle-covered plain, w^liich had a gradual rise, culminating in tlie myombo-clad slopes of the Uveriveri ridge. While standing at Suna, we were in view of that vast waste out of which, after terrible experience, we had emergedj as it were only with our lives. At Chiwyu, we camped near the loftiest altitude ofl the gradual and almost unbroken rise of upland, at al height of 5400 feet. To the northward of Suna ainll Chiwyu,. the country, however, no longer retained tliatl grand unfurrowed uplift, but j^resented several isolateJl hills and sliort ranges, while to the westward also m saw tiiat it was divided into oval basins, rimmed witlil low hills. From these same hollows and furrows audi basins at the base of the hills, scattered to the north audi west of Suna and Chiwya, issue the first tiny riviilets,| which, as we continue our journey to the north-^est, gradually converge to one main stream, trending towarilsj EXTREME SOUTHEliN NILE SOURCES. 119 Lake Yictoria. It is in this region, therefore, that 1875. the most extreme southern Sources of the Nile were '^""' ^^' 1 Chiwyu ! discovered. ■ - Since leaving Mpwapwa, we have not crossed one [perennial stream. All our drinking water has heen obtained from pools, or shallow depressions lately filled by rain. Between Suna and Chiwyu was crossed one small rill flowing north-easterly, which soon after- wards joins another and still another, and gathering volume, swerves north, then north-west. These are tlie furthest springs and head-water*" of a river that will presently become known as- the Leewumbu, then as the Monangah, and lastly as the Shimeeyu, under which name it enters Lake Victoria on the south-east I coast of Speke Gulf. - ■ i . . Descending into the basin of Matongo from Chiwyu I with its melancholy associations, we crossed several I narrow and shallow furrows, which a few late rains had probably caused, and came to a clear stream flowing I north through a deep rocky channel. Near this ravine was a space about a square mile in extent, strana:ely torn up and exhibiting thousands of boulders and blocks, large and small, with smooth, water- worn j tops ; and the sides of what is now a small hill in the [centre of the basin showed visible traces of the action iof furious torrents through centuries of time. The hard granite was worn into cones, the tops of which bore a calcined appearance, proving the effect of intense heat suddenly cooled by rain. The rocky channel of this I stream in the Matongo basin was a veritable geological section. The surface consisted of massive granite Loiiklers imbedded in vegetable deposit; below this was a stratum of sand about 3 feet deep, below the sand a stratum of coarse shingle of quartz, feldspar, and porphyry, about 8 feet thick, and below this was alluvium, resting on solid rock. *■ 120 TUROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Jan. 20. Mangura. During these days the thermometer had seldom risen higher than 78°; for hours during the day it stood at 66°, while at night the mean was 63°. Seven miles from Chiwyu stand the villages of Mangura on tlie borders of Ituru. Soon after leaving Mangura we ought to have followed the left-hand road, which, after traversing a forest, would have brought us to Mgongo Tembo, where we should have found Wangwana and Wanyamwezi. We also discovered that we had already ! lost the regular path to Usukuma at Kashongwa, whicli would have taken us, we were told, to Utaturu and ' thence to Mgongo Tembo. But the Mangura natives, I though they were otherwise tolerant of our presence ' and by no means ill-disposed, wt uld not condescend to ! show us the road, and we were t lerefore exposed to a series of calamities, which at one time threatened our I very existence. I After passing Mangura, we entered Ituru. Streams > now became numerous, all flowing northward ; but ' though such a well-watered country, the cattle in it j were poor and gaunt in frame, the dogs half starved, j and the sheep and goats mere skeletons. Only the human beings seemed to me to be in good condition. Among the birds of this region which attracted our! attention, we noted spur-winged geese, small brown! short-billed ducks, delicate of flesh and delicious eating, long-legged plover, snipe, cranes, herons, spoonbills, parroquets and jays, and a large greyish-brown bird with short legs resembling a goose, and very shy and difficult of approach. The language of Ituru is totally distinct from that of! Ugogo or of Unyamwezi. Besides possessing large herds of cattle, nearly every village boasts of one or two strong Masai asses. As the Wanyaturu stood in| groups indulging their curiosity outside our camps, I observed they had a curious habit of employing them- Niranga. The 1 AMONG TEE WANYATURU. 121 selves in plucking the hair from their faces and arm- pits. Being extremely distant in their manner, we found it difficult to gain their confidence, though we were assiduous in our attempts to cultivate their good- will. Izanjeh was our next camp after Mangura, and the first place we halted at in Ituru. It was 5450 feet above the sea. On leaving Izanjeh, Kaif Halleck, the bearer of the letter-bag to Livingstone in 1871, was afflicted with asthma, and as we were compelled to travel slowly, I entreated him not to lag behind the Expedition while it traversed such a dangerous country. But I have observed that sick men seldom heed advice. Being obliged to go forward to the front during these evil and trying days, I had to leave the rearguard under Frank Pocock and Fred Barker and the W ngwana chiefs. As my duties would be mainly to introduce and ingratiate our expedition with the natives, I could not possibly know what happened in the rear until we reached camp, and reports were made to me by Frank and Manwa Sera. From the top of a ridge, accompanied by a guide whose good-will had been secured by me, I descended to the basin of what the Wangwana at Mgongo Tembo call Vinyata, but which the guide, I feel assured, called Niranga. The basin is oval, about twelve miles long by six miles wide, cut through the centre by the Leewumbu, as it flows in a W.N.W. direction, becoming I lost, soon after leaving the basin, in a cluster of wood- iclad hills. Numbers of villages are sprinkled over it from end to end, and from the summit of the ridge we guessed it to contain a populous and wealthy com- munity. On the evening of the same day, the 2l8t [January 1875, we arrived at Yinyata. There was nothing in the horizon of our daily life 1875. Jan. 21. Izanjehi 122 TIIROiTCli THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Jiui. 21, Vinyata. m that the most fearful and timid could have considered ominous. Nevertheless, consistent with custom, the camp was constructed on the summit of a sliglitly swelling ground, between a forest and the fields in the basin. The people of the small village nearest to us deserted it upon first sight of our party, but they were finally persuaded to return. Everything promised at night to he peaceful, though anxiety began to be felt about the fate of Kaif Halleck. He had not been seen for two d;iys. Some suggested he had deserted, but " faithiiils " rarely desert upon mere impulse, without motive or cause. It was necessary therefore to halt a day at Vinyata to despatch a searching party. Manwa Sera was told to take four staunch men, one of wliom was the scout and famous detective, Kacheche, to hunt up the sick " letter-carrier of 1871." '' During Manwa Sera's absence, Frank, Barker, and myself were occupied in reducing our loads, and re- jecting every article that we could possibly subsist without. Our sick were many, twenty had died, and eighty-nine had deserted, between the coast and Vinyata! '• "^ r '^i:?--- While examining the cloth bales, we discovered that several were wet from the excessive rains of Ugogo, and to save them from being ruined, it was imperative, though impolitic, that we should spread the cloths to dry. In the midst of this work the great magic doctor of Vinyata came to pay me a visit, bringing with liira a fine fat ox as a peace oifering. Being the first we had received since leaving Ki.. lo, we regarded it as a propitious omen, and I showeu by my warmth toward the ancient Mgimga that I was ready to reciprocate his kindness. He was introduced to my tent, and after being sociably entertained with excee.lingly sweet coffee and some of Huntley and Palmer's best and sweetest biscuits, he was presented with fifteen cloths, thirty necklaces, and t him fourfold for sardine boxes, s( tins, were succe for them. The when he entrea hlood-brotherhoo ceremonious gra departing, he sa\ the ox, and he the animal shoi stayed for it, I Lis following cas which were dryin During the day back rations, tow jungle of Uveriv effected in their natives this day for the night, Man the report that *' '. discovered, gashe* edge of a wood be " We cannot 1 little deliberation. cannot avenge hir warning from hig the camp, and wl the caravan ; anc charge of the reai to find his way ur The next day th to receive another fibout a quart of ci He also received a his children. AVe Vi KAIF EALLECK MURDERED. 123 necklaces, and ten yards of brass wire, which repaid him fourfold for his ox. Trivial things, such as empty sardine boxes, soup and bonilli pots, and empty jam tins, were successively bestowed on him as he begged for them. The horizon appeared clearer than ever, when he entreated me to go through the process of blood-brotherhood, which I underwent with all the ceremonious gravity of a pagan. As he was finally departing, he saw preparations being made to despatch tlie ox, and he expressed his desire that the heart of the animal should be returned to him. While he stayed for it, I observed with uneasiness that he and Ills following cast lingering glances upon the cloths which were drying in camp,, During the day the Wangwana received several days' back rations, towards repairing the havoc which the jungle of Uveriveri and famine-stricken Ugogo had effected in their frames, and our intercourse with the natives this day was most friendly. But before retiring for the night, Manwa Sera and his scouts returned with the report that *' Kaif Halleck's " dead body had been discovered, gashed with over thirty wounds, on the edge of a wood between Izanjeh and Vinyata ! " We cannot help it, my friends," I said after a little deliberation. " We can mourn for him, but we cannot avenge him. Ou and tell the people to take warning from his fate not to venture too far from tlie camp, and when on the march not to lag behind the caravan ; and you, who are the chiefs and in charge of the rear, must not again leave a sick man to find his way unprotected to camp." lu Oi?" ,i :.; The next day the magic doctor appeared about 8 a.m. to receive another present, and as he brought with him about a quart of curded milk, he was not disappointed. He also received a few beads for his wife and for each of bis children. We parted about 9.30 a.m. alter hhaking 1R7.V Jan. 22. Vinyata 124 THROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Jan. 23. Vinyata. hi hands many times, apparently mutually pleased with each other. No mention was made to any native of Vinyata of the murder of Kaif Halleck, lest it might be suspected we charged our new friends with being cognizant of, or accessory to, the cruel deed, which would, without doubt, have caused new complications. Half an hour after the departure of the magic doctor, while many of the Wangwana were absent purchasing grain, and others were in the forest collecting faggots, we heard war cries. Imagining that they were the muster-call to resist their neighbours of Izanjeh, or of some tribe to the east, we did not pay much attention to them. However, as these peculiar war-cries, which may be phonetically rendered " Hehu-a hehu," appeared to draw nearer, we mustered a small party on the highest ground of the camp, in an attitude of doubt and enquiry, and presently saw a large body of natives armed with spears, bows and arrows, and shields, appear within a hundred yards on a similar high-ground outside the camp. The sight suggested to us that they had mustered against us, yet I could divine no cause of grievance or subject of complaint to call forth a war- like demonstration. I despatched two unarmed messengers to them to inquire what their intentions were, and to ascertain the object of this apparently hostile mob. The mes- sengers halted midway between the camp and the crowd, and sitting down, invited two of the natives to advance to them for a " shauri." We soon discovered upon the return of the messengers that one of the Wangwana had stolen some milk, and that the natives had been aroused to " make war"* upon us because of the theft. They were sent back to inform the natives that war was wicked and unjust for such a small crime, and to suggest that they should fix a price • "Make war" is the literal translation oifanya vita. VAX Lon the milk, andl L-ith a handsome Iproposition was agi Iwas made, and the But as this mol [another large force! Lultation ensued, atl lone or two prominl Ivoices, the loud, shf liiistinctively warneJ Ithedav. There was Iinents, an emphasis [wrathful fury aboi Ibody that were ui jquarrelling dogged leloth for the milk, [with them if they Ished. In the midst of I came hastily upon [near the right elbo Ifrom a flying spear la ghastly wound f open his temples. las lying dead nei I camp. We decided, nev strong disciples of I seemed to me then me only the day be [for this last murdei the camp, it will b I simply said that h( I ammunition witho our party on eithei should the natives VAIN FOItDEAUANGE. 125 Lon the milk, and permit us to atone for the wrong Iwith a handsome gift. After some deliberation the Iproposition was agreed to. A liberal present of cloth (was made, and the affair had apparently terminated. But as this mob was about to retire peacefully, [another large force appeared from the north. A con- Lultation ensued, at first quietly enough, but there were one or two prominent figures there, who raised their voices, the loud, sharp, and peremptory tones of which instinctively warned me that their owners would carry the day. There was a bellicose activity about their move- ments, an emphasis in their gestures, and a determined wrathful fury about the motion of head and pose of ioily that were unmistakable. They appeared to be quarrelling doggedly with those who had received cloth for the milk, and were evif'.atly ready to fight with them if they persisted in retiring without blood- Islied. In the midst of this, Soudi, a youth of Zanzibar, Icame hastily upon the scene. He had a javelin gash near the right elbow joint, and a slight cut as though frnm a flying spear was visible on his left side, while a ghastly wound from a whirling knobstick had laid [open his temples. He reported his brother Suliman lying dead near the forest, to the west of the I camp. We decided, nevertheless, to do nothing. We were I strong disciples of the doctrine of forbearance, for it seemed to me then as if Livingstone had taught it to me only the day before. " Keep silence," I said ; " even for this last murder I shall not fight ; when they attack tlie camp, it will be time enough then." To Frank I simply said that he might distribute twenty rounds of ammunition without noise to each man, and dispose our party on either side of the gate, ready for a charge should the natives determine upon attacking us. 1«7S. Jan. 23. VInyaU. 126 TllliOUan TDE DAIIK CONTINENT. 1875. Jun. 2'A. Vmyuta, The Imully arf^uinp^ mob liad not yet settled con. elusively ^vllat tliey should do, and possibly, liostilitie? might have been averted, had not tlio nmrdL'rL'rs of young Suliman, advancing red-handed and triumpliaiit extorted from all the imaninious opinior. that it woulj be better after all to fight " the cowardly Waiigwiuui and the white men, who were evidently only women." ' Tliey quickly disposed themselves, delivered loin] whoops of triumph, prepared their bows, and shot llnir first arrows. The Wangwana became restless, but 1 restrained them. Perceiving no sign of life in our camp, the Wanyaturu judged, doubtless, tliat we were half dead with fright, and advanced boldly to within ' thirty yards, when the word was given to the AVau. gwana and Wanyamwezi, who rushed outside and, ly the very momentum of the rush, drove the savages to a distance of 200 yards. The Wangwana were then ordered to halt, and deployed as skirmishers. We still waited without firing. The savages, not compreliending this extraordinary forbearance, advanced once more. The interpreters were requested to warn them that we should delay no longer. Tliey replied, ** Ye are women, ye are women ; go, ask Mirambo liow he fared in Ituru," saying which they twanged tlieir bows. It was only then, perceiving that they were too savage to understand the principles of forbearance, that the final word to " fight " was given. A brisk encounter was maintained for an hour, and then, having' driven the savages away, the Wangwana were rectilled to camp. Meanwhile Frank was busy with sixty men armed with axes in constructing a strong stockade, and on the return of the Wangwana they were employed in build- ing marksmen's " nests " at each corner of the camp. We also cleared the ground to the space of 200 yards THE FIGHT. ' 127 i around the camp. By niglit our camp was secure, and portl'ct] y defensible. On the morning of the 24th we waited patiently in iOiir ciimp. Why should we attuck? We were wretched It'iioiigh as it was without seeking to add to our wietclicdness. We numbered only seventy effective men, for all the others were invalids, frightened porters, women, donkey boys, and childre a. The sick list was ala'ming, but, try how we might, the number was not to be reduced. While we lived from hand to mouth on a few grains of corn a day, after a month's experience of famine fare, our phght must not only remain pitiable, but become worse. We were therefore in a mood to pray that we might not be attacked, but permitted to leave the camp in safety. At 9 A.M., however, the enemy appeared, reinforced l)otli in numbers and confidence, for the adjoining districts on the north and east had been summoned to the " war." This word means now, as is evident, daily attacks upon our camp, with forces hourly increasing, until we shall have also perhaps strange tribes to the westward invited to the extermination of the strangers, and ourselves be in the meantime penned in our hold until hunger reduces us to surrender, to be butchered without mercy. Our position, as strangers in a hostile country, is such that we cannot exist as a corporate expedition, unless we resist with all our might and skill, in order |to terminate hostilities and secure access to the estern country. We therefore wait until they advance pen our camp, and drive them from its vicinity as we id tlie clay before. In half an hour our people are back, nd organized into four detachments of ten men each nder their separate chiefs, two more detaclnnents of en men each being held in reserve, and one other, of en ab,o, detailed for the defence of the camp. They 1875. Jiin. 24. VinyaU. . ^:i hr. 128 TniiOUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Jan. 24. Vinyata. ml are instructed to proceed in skirmishing order different directions through the hostile country, to drive the inhabitants out wlierever they find tlieml lodged, to a distance of five miles east and north, certain rocky hills, the rendezvous of the foe, beinoi pointed out as the place where they must conveiire. Messengers are sent with each detachment to hx'w me back information. The left detachment, under chief Farjalla Christie, were soon thrown into disorder, and were killed to a man, except the messenger who brought us the news, imploring for the reserve, as the enemy were now con- centrated on the second detachment. Manwa Sen was therefore despatched with fifteen men, and arrived at the scene only in time to save eight out of tbe second detachment. The third plunged boldly on, but lost six of its number; the fourth, under chief Safeni, behaved prudently and well, and, as fast as each enclosed village was taken, set it on fire. But ten other men despatched to the scene retrieved wliat the third had lost, and strengthened Safeni. About 4 P.M. the "\Vano;wana returned, briniriiiir with them oxen, goats, and grain for food. Our losses in this day's proceedings were twenty-one soldiers ami one messenger killed, and three wounded. On the morning of the 2r)th we waited until 9 a.m., again hoping that the Wanyaturu would see tlie impolicy of renewing the fight; but we were dlsap pointed, for they ap23eared again, and apparently a^ numerous as ever. After some severe volleys we drove them off again on the third day, but upon the return of the Wangwana, instead of dividing them into detiicli- ments, I instructed them to proceed in a compact body, Some of the porters volunteered to take the place of the soldiers who perished the previous day, and we were therefore able to show still a formidable front. OUl I All the villages consumed, they ^ attacked the rod Ljopted as a st precipitately into Itliev did not folk We knew now I Some of the guns On reckoning up ulav, we ascertain I three men wounde ammunition expei Suliman murderei twenty-four men iiad twenty-five oi to replace these f necessary on the inn^enuity had to accordingly place( [detailed to carry Usukuma. Much I and on the morni we resumed our ir The expedition peans, 206 Wang women, and six b place which mighi riglit and left ros almost perpendicu -100 feet down tc only way of acces we had entered. a dense wall of lay down to rest. This camp was ocean, and due W( VOL. I. OUR TRIUMPH AND LOSSES. 129 I All the villages in our neighbourhood being first consumed, they continued their march, and finally [attack'ed the rocky hill, which the Wanyaturu had adopted as a stronghold, and drove them flying precipitately into the neighbouring country, where Itiiev did not follow them. We knew now that we should not be disturbed. Some of the guns, lost the day before, we recaptured. I On reckoning up our loss on the evening of the third juav, we ascertained it to be twenty-two men killed, three men wounded, twelve guns lost, and four cases of ammunition expended. Including Kaif Halleck and Suliinan murdered, our losses in Ituru were therefore twenty-four men killed and four wounded, and as we lad twenty-five on the sick list, it may be imagined that to replace these fifty-three men great sacrifices were necessary on the part of the survivors, and much iiifj^enuity had to be exercised. Twelve loads were accordingly placed on the asses, and ten chiefs were detailed to carry baggage until we should arrive in Usukuma. Much miscellaneous property was burned, and on the morning of the 26th, just before daybreak, we resumed our interrupted journey. The expedition on this day consisted of three Euro- peans, 206 Wangwana and Wanyamwezi, twenty-five women, and six boys. At 9.30 a.m. we camped at a place which might be called a natural fortress. To our right and left rose two little hills 100 feet high and almost perpendicular. Behind us dropped a steep slope 400 feet down to the Leewumbu river, so that the only way of access was the narrow gap through which we had entered. We soon closed the ffatewav with a dense wall of brushwood, and in perfect security lay down to rest. "i This camp was at an altitude of 5650 feet above the ocean, and due west of Yinyata about ten miles. On VOL. I. jg 1875. Jan. 25. Viuyat*. lyo Tim UGH THE DAIiK CONTINENT. U 1875. one side of us was the deep-wooded valley throiin-li '^^'^' ^^' which the rapid Leewumbu rushes. Its banks on each ' side slope steeply upward, and at the top become detached 'jlls clothed with forest; from their base wave the uplands in grand and imposing wooded ridges. North of the Leewumbu the hills are bolder than those to the south. On the 27th, at dawn, we crossed the Leewnnibii, and the whole of that day and the day followinf^ our route was through a forest of fine myombo, intersected by singular narrow plains, forming at this season of the year so many quagmires. Other features of this region were enormous bare rocks, looming like castles through the forest, and hillocks com- posed of great fragments of splintered granite and broad heaving humps of grey gneiss. One cf these singular features of this part of Africa gives its name to Mgongo Tembo, " The Elephant's Back." Far to the south is a similar hill, which I passed by during the first expedition; and its chief, emigrating to Iramba, has bestowed upon a like feature at the site of his new colony the name of his former village, to remind him of old associations, On the 29th we entered Mgongo Tembo, and became acquainted with the chief, who is also known by the h\\- tastic name which he has given his new quarters, thoiigh his real name is Malewa. He is a strong conservativ', dislikes innovations, declares young men nowadays to be too fond of travel, and will not allow his sons- he has sixteen — to visit either Unyanyembe or Zanzibar lest they should learn bad habits. He is a hearty, jovial soul, kindly disposed if let alone. He has lately em.erged triumphantly out of a war with ^laganga o[ Rubuga, an ally of the famous Mirambo. It had been an object with me at one time to steer clear of Mir; mbo, but as I recognised and became impressed witli his ubiquitous powers, I failed to per- MGONOO TEMBO. 131 ccive liow the system of exploration I had planned could be effected if I wandered great distances out of Ill's way. On the first expedition some of my people perished in a conflict with him, and on returning with Livingstone to Unyanyerobe', we heard of him dealing effective blows with extraordinary rapidity on his Arab and native foes. Since leaving Ugogo, we heard daily of him on this expedition. He was one day advancing upon Kirirumo, at another place he- was on our flanks somewhere in Utaturu. He fought with Ituru, and, according to Mgongo Tembo'^ chief, lost 1100 men two months before we entered the country. Mgongo Tembo, who kept a wary eye upon the formidable chiefs movements, informed us tliat )Iirambo was in front of us, fighting the Wasukuma. Mgongo Tembo further said, in explanation of the unprovoked attacks of the Wanyaturu upon us, tliat we ought not to have bestowed the heart of the presented ox upon the magic doctor of Yinyata, as bj the loss of that diffuser of blood, the Wanyaturu believed we had left our own bodies weakened and would be an easy prey to them. " The Wanyaturu are robbers, and sons of robbers," said he fiercely, after listening to the recital of our experiences in Ituru. On the 1st February, after a very necessary halt of two days at Mgongo Tembo, with an addition to our force of eight pagazis and two guides, and encouraged liy favourable reports of the country in front, we entered Mangura in Usukuma near a strange valley which contained a forest of borassus palms. In the lieds of the several streams we crossed this day we observed granite boulders, blue shale, basalt, j^orphyry and quartz. Beyond Mangura, or about six miles west of It, was Htiiate Igira, a sparse settlement overlooking the magni- K 2 1875. Jim. 31. Mgongo Tembo. 132 TBROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Feb. 1. Igira. ficent plain of Luwamberri, at an altitude by boiling. point of 5350 feet. A camp which we established in this plain was ascertained with the same apparatus to be 4475 feet. Ten miles farther, near a sluggish ditcl> like creek, the boihng-point showed 4250 feet, only 100 feet higher than Lake Victoria. As far as Igira the myombo flourished, but when we descended into the plain, and the elevation above the sea decreased to 4000 feet, we discovered that the baobaL became the principal feature of the vegetation, giving place soon after to thorny acacias and a variety of scrub, succeeded in their turn by a vast expanse of tawny grass. The Luwamberri plain — with its breadth of nearly forty miles, its indefinite length of level reach towards the N.N.W., its low altitude above the Victorian Lake, the wave-worn slopes of the higher elevations wiiicli hem it on the east and the south — appears to me to have been in ancient times a long arm of the great lake which was our prospective goal at this period. About sixteen miles from Igira there is a small sluggish stream with an almost imperceptible current northward, but though it was iubignificant at the time of our cross- ing, there were certain traces on the tall grass to show that during the middle of the rainy season it is nearly a mile broad, and very deep. Several nullalis or ravines with stagnant water, when followed up, prove to have their exit in the broad channel. In the centre of the level plain rises a curious eleva- tion, like an island crowned with a grove, whither the game with which the plain teems resort during the wet season. At the period of our crossing, however, they roved in countless numbers over the plain — giraffe, zebra, gnu, buffalo, springbok, water-buck, kudu, harte- beest, wild-boar, and several varieties of smolkr antelope ; while birds abounded, ibis, field-larks, fisli- THE PL. liawks, kingfishers, 1 flamingoes, spoonb With such a va i conceived that ^bich now num strength gained earnestly hoped sport to which I mv faithful factotu and a small ante] op ->f the woody elev; tbe third day on one buffalo, and i winged geese, four was now a drug in stvles, either ste\ cakes. Some of th cloth bale of 60 lbs On the western tbe Itawa river, a with grass, and ca be favourable onl mimosa. After a f crossed the Gogo tbe Luwamberri easternmost of a tops. These hills, waving grass and sisted of silicious which was vertica to the north-west. covered with deta base with shingh vicinity of the hi rock, which, in p sheets. THE PLAIN OF THE LUWAMBEBRI. 133 hawks, kingfishers, spur- winged geese, ducks, vultures, flamingoes, spoonbills, and cranes. With such a variety before them, it may readily be conceived that the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi, which now numbered, with the accessions to our strength gained at Mangura and Igira, 280 men, earnestly hoped that I should be successful in the sport to which I now devoted myself with the aid of my foithful factotum Billali. One day I shot a giraffe and a small antelope ; on the next, in the neighbourhood i the woody elevation in the plain, five zebra ; and the third day on the western verge, I shot two gnu, one buffalo, and a zebra, besides bagging two spur- wing;ed geese, four guinea-fowl, and five ducks. Meat was now a drug in our camp. It was cooked in various styles, either stewed, roasted, fried, or pounded for cakes. Some of the Wanyamwezi carried, besides their cloth bale of 60 lbs. weight, nearly 35 lbs. of dried meat. On the western verge of the grassy plain we crossed the Itawa river, a broad but sluggish stream choked with grass, and camped in a locality which seemed to be favourable only to the production of baobab and mimosa. After a few hours' travel west of the Itawa, we crossed the Gogo river with a course N.N.E. towards the Luwamberri plain. Here we arrived at the easternmost of a chain of low hills with truncated tops. These hills, pleasant to the eye, and covered with waving grass and a sprinkling of thin dwarf bush, con- sisted of silicious feldspathic rock, the stratification of wliich was vertical, in other parts diagonal, with a dip to tlie north-west. The slopes of the hills were thickly covered with detached pieces of this rock, and at the base with shingle. The plain beneath, close to the vicinity of the hills, had extensive beds of the same rock, which, in places, rose above it^ exposed in great sheets. 1875. Feb. 2. Luwam- berri. 134 TIIROVGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Feb. 9. Mombiti. On the 9th February we crossed the Nanga ravine, and the next day, by a gradual ascent, arrived at tlie Seh'gwa, flowing to the Leewumbu, and, after follow- ing it for four miles, reached the hospitable villaire of Mombiti. We had fiairly entered the rich country of Usukuma, where the traveller, if he has resources at his disposal, need never fear starvation. The products of the rich upland were here laid at our feet, and it must be conceded that the plenteous stores of grain, beans, potatoes, vetches, sesaraiira, millet, vegetables, such as melons and various garden herbs, honey, and tobacco, which we v/ere enabled to purchase at Mombiti, were merited by the members of the long-enduring expedition. The number of chickens and goats that were slaughtered by the people was enormous. Long arrears of rewards were due tliem for the many signal exainples of worth they had shown; and here I earned anew the flattering appel- lation bestowed upon me three years previously in Africa. " The white man with the open hand "— " Huyu Msungu n'u fungua mikono." AVith tlie rewards they received, the AYangwana and Wanyamwezi, men, women, and children, revelled in the delights of repleted stomachs, and the voice of the ga,'int monster. Hunger, was finally hushed. In festive rejoicings and inordinate fulness we spent three days at Mombiti. A fresh troop of porters was here engaged to relieve the long-suffering people, and with renewed spirits and rekindled vigour, and with reserve stores of luxuries on our shoulders, we plunged into the jungle in the direction of the Monangah valley and Usiha, in pre- ference to the ever-troubled route by Usanda, Nguru, and Masari. Mirambo, it was reported, was also in the neighbourhood of Masari, and hovering about our path like a phantom. During the s| Gardner, one of ^ during his last j( of typhoid fever. having buried hi grave at the juj Usiha, the other how I am dying.] in charge of Taryj half be given t( given to these ml -that they may : of this faithful, ' "Camp Gardner.' A gradual desc hronght us to the or the ^lonangal the river. At tl was 30 yards wi of about a mile J ahove its present the rainy season. the same features near the Gogo si \m on the dwarf to permit my app in dropping a st which I made in On leaving th( a pathless countr ceres wallows, ? ixrey muddy wat^ Peak bore W.N. X.N.W., and Sa coues ran from k Surmounting V'j CAMP GARDNER. 135 During the second day's march from Mombitf, 1875. Gardner, one of the faithful followers of Livingstone J**^' ^*' during his last journey, succumbed to a severe attack Gardner." of tvphoid fever. We conveyed the body to camp, and having buried him, raised a cairn of stones over his (^rave at the junction of two roads, one leading to Usiha, the other to Iramba. His last words were, " I know I am dying. Let my money (370 dollars), which is in charge of Tarya Topan of Zanzibar, be divided. T-et a half be given to my friend Chumah, and a half be given to these my friends — pointing to the Wangwana —that they may make the mourning- feast." In honour of this faithful, the camp is called after his name — "Camp Gardner." A gradual descent from the ridges and wavy upland brought us to the broad, brown valley of the Leewumbu, or the Monangah river, as the Wasukuma now ^^Iled the river. At the ford in this st.son the Monangah was 30 yards wide and 3 feet deep, with a current of about a mile an hour, but discoloured marks high above its present level denote a considerable rise during tlie rainy season. A few hills on the south bank showed the same features of the silicified feldspathic rock visible near the Gogo stream. Giraffe were numerous, feed- ing on the dwarf acacia, but the country was too open to ])ermit my approaching them. However, I succeeded in dropping a stray springbok in a hunting excursion which I made in the evening. On leaving the Monangah, we struck northerly across a pathless country seamed with elephant tracks, rhino- ceros wallows, and gullies which contained pools of grey muddy water. Four miles from the river, Kirira Peak bore "W.N.W., Usanda west by north, Wanhinni N.N.W., and Samui west by south. A chain of hill- coues ran from Samui to Wanhinni. Surmounting a ridge which bounded the valley of 136 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Feb. 17. Usiha. the Monangah on the north, and following its cre?t westerly, we arrived on the morning of the ITth February at Eastern Usiha. When in sight of their conical cotes, we despatched one of our native guides ahead, to warn the natives that a caravan of Wangwana was ap^xoaching, and to bear messages of peace and goodwill. But in his absence, one of the Kinyamwezi asses set up a terrific braying, whicli nearly created serious trouble. It appears that on one of his former raids the terrible Mirambo possessed a Kinyamwezi ass which also brayed, and, like the geese of the Roman Capitol, betrayed the foe. Hence the natives insistid, despite the energetic denial of our guide, that this ass must also belong to Mirambo, and for a short period lie was in a perilous state. They seized and bound liira, and would probably have despatched him had not tlie village scouts returned laughing heartily at the friglit the vicious ass had caused. Usiha is the commencement of a most beautiful pastoral country, which terminates only in the Victoria Nyanza. From the summit of one of the weird grey rock piles which cliaracterize it, one may enjoy that unspeakable fascination of an apparently bounclk'ss horizon. On all sides there stretches toward it the fiice of a vast circle replete with peculiar features, of detached hills, great crag-masses of riven and sharply angkd rock, and outcro2;>ping mounds, between whicli heaves and rolls in low, broad waves a green grassy phiiu whereon feed thousands of cattle scattered about in small herds. As fondly as the "Wangwana with their suffering vitals lingered over their meals in the days of plenty at Mombiti, so fondly did I gloat over this expanding extent, rich in contrasts and pleasing surprises. Fresh from the tawny plains of Monangah, with its thirsty and sere aspect, I was as gratified as though I possessed ■V. IN A LAND OF PLENTY. 137 the wand of an enchanter, and had raised around me the verdant downs of Sussex. I seated myself apart, on the topmost grey rock. Only 'ly gunbearer was near me, and he always seemed ii.:uitively to know mv moods. I revelled therefore undisturbed in the bland and gracious prospect. The voices of the Wan- f)•^yana came to me now and again faint by distance, and but for this I might, as I sat there, have lost myself in the delusion that all the hideous past and beautiful present was a dream. After the tra 3ller has performed his six hundred miles from the o.:ea . to Usiha, however phlegmatic he may be, he wi'l sji'ely glow with pleasure when he views this fair scene of promise. The delicious smell of cattle and young grass comes up from the plain quick, and reminds me of home-farm memories, of milk and cheese, and secret dippings into cream-pots, and from the staked bomas and the hedge-encircled villages there rise to my hearing the bleating of yoimg calves, and the lowing of the cows as they looked interested towards the village, and I could see flocks of kids and goats, and sheep with jealously watchful shepherd-boys close by — the whole prospect so peaceful and idyllic that it made a strangely afi'ecting impression on me. Daybreak of the 19 th February saw the refreshed Expedition winding up and down the rolling pasture- land, escorted by hundreds of amiable natives who exchanged pleasant jests with our people, and laughed recklessly and boisterously to show us that they were glad we had visited their country. " Come yet again/' said they, as they turned to go back after escorting us three miles on our way. " Come always, and you will be welcome." We thoroughly enjoyed marching with such a broad prospect on either hand. We felt free, and for the first time enjoyed something of the lordly feeling to 1875. Feb. 18. U«iha. 138 TIIIiOUOH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Feb. 19. Utiha. whicli it is said man is born, but to which we Iwfl certainly been strangers between the ocean and the grassy plains of Usukuma. One half the distance, it appears to me, we had ploughed our wav through the lower regions of vegetation — the dense intermosliei] tangle of a full-grown jungle — or we had crawled about like an army of ants, with the ordinary grasses of the maritime lands, the Luwamberri and the Monaiigali plains, towering like a forest of cane above our lieads. The myombo forests of Uveriveri, and wood-clad ridges ] — drained by the crystal-clear streams and rivulets which supply the furthest waters to Egypt's sncicd river — though tolerably open, did not inspire us with such a large, indescribable sense of freedom as the open short-grass lands in which we now found ourselves. A fair idea of the rugged rock-heaps which relieved a landscape that might otherwise have been monotonous may be obtained from the photograph of Wezi's rocks. They are extremely picturesque from their massiveness and eccentricity, which distance increases and charms into ruined castles or antique human dwellings. Tillages were numerous between Usiha and "Wanrlui. Sweet springs bubbled from all sides, especially from the opposing bases of the granite ridges which, like walls, flank the broad natural avenue, at the upper end of which stands the capital of the king of Usiha, shadiJ by glorious baobab and bowery masses of milk-weed. As we were marching from Wandui to Mondo^ on the 20th February, we were once again mistaken by the warlike natives for Mirambo, but the mistake went no further than war-cries, long, low, and melodious, caught up by hundreds of clear voices, and a demon- strative exhibition of how they would have exterminated us had we been really and truly Mirambo. In propor- tion as Mirambo haunts their vicinity, so do the natives appear to be possessed and disturbed. Wandui and TJ Usilia become sue nm frightened mediately the cr and from every until from Usihf t,) Usmau, the neig'bbours, findii r.tber, and begin local war Mirara the ground, and North of Mont times Abatti — like a treeless p tree. The grasi crowned hills w All the male a( naked, but their and half tanned flocks of goats glorious park cou Tbe following trate this extraor 1 ox . . . 1 goat 1 sheep . 1 chicken 6 chickens . 40 kubaba of Mti 1 ox . . 1 goat . 1 sheep . 1 chicken 6 chickens 40 kubaba of Mi The villages o by hedges of eu is most acrid, ai a tender organ £ TllltOUOn OPEN COUNTRY. 139 Usilia become suddenly exercised at seeing their cattle nm frightened from some prowling beast, and im- mediately the cry of " Mirambo, Mirambo !" is raised, and from every height the alarming cry is echoed, until from Usiha to Usanda, and from Masari north to Usmau, the dread name is repeated. Then two neJf^libours, finding it was a mistake, quarrel with each fitlier, and begin fighting, and in the midst of their local war Mirambo A'eritably appears, as though from the ground, and attacks both ! North of Mondo, as far as Abaddi, or Baddi — some- times Abatti — the country rolled, clear and open, like a treeless park, with scarcely a single shrub or tree. The grass was only an inch high. The rock- crowned hills were, however^ still frequent features. All the male adults of -Abaddi stalked about stark naked, but their women were clad with stiff skins and half tanned cowhides. The herds of cattle and flocks of goats and sheep absolutely whitened the glorious park country. The following l)rief list of prices will serve to illus- trate this extraordinary land of plenty : — 1 ox . . 1 goat 1 sheep . 1 chicken 6 chickens 40 kubaba of Mtama 1 ox . 1 goat . 1 slieep . 1 cliicken 6 chickens 40 kubaba of Mtama Prices at Ahaddi. G yards of sheeting. ^ }) » 2 „ „ 1 necklace. 2 yards of sheeting. 4 Prices in Ugogo. . 48 yards of sheeting. 12 . 10 „ . From 5 to 10 necklaces. . 12 yards of sheeting. . 16 The villages of this part of Uoakuma are surrounded by hedges of euphorbias, milk-weed, the juice of which is most acrid, and when a drop is spattered over such a tender organ as the eye, the pain is almost intolerable. 187S. Feb. 21. AbadJi. \ It :'Sfer I I 14U TUROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. Feb. 22. Marya. My poor bull-terrier Jack, while chasing a mongoose into one of these hedges, quite lost the use of one eye. Our next camp was Marya, fifteen miles north by east Mag. from Mondo, and 4800 feet above the sea. We were still in view of the beautiful rolling plain, witli its rock-crested hills, and herds of cattle, and snug villages, but the people, though Wasukuma, were the noisiest and most impudent of any we had yet met. One of the chiefs insisted on opening the door of the tent while I was resting after the long march, I heard the tent-Loys remonstrate with him, but did not interfere until the chief forcibly opened the door, when the bull-doofs " Bull " and *' Jack," who were also enjoying a well- earned repose, sprang at him suddenly and pinned his hands. The terror of the chief was indescribable, as he appeared to believe that the white man in the tent had. been transformed into two ferocious dogs, so little was he prepared for such a reception. I quickly released him from his position, and won his gratitude and aid in restoring the mob of natives to a more moderate temper. A march of seventeen miles north by west across a waterless jungle brought us on the 24th to South Usmau. Native travellers in this country possess native bells of globular form with which, when setting out on a journey, they ring most alarming though not inharmonious sounds, to waken the women to their daily duties. The journey to Hulwa in North Usmau was begun by plunging through a small forest at the base of some rocky hills which had been distinctly visible from Marya, thirty-one miles south. A number of monkeys lined their summits, gazing contemptuously at the long string of bipeds condemned to bear loads. We then descended into a broad and populous basin, wherein villages with their milk-weed hedges appeared to be only so many verdant circlets. Great fragments and heaps of liven granite, gl cresting the hills Through a siml ill North Usmaul above the sea, an approached the sj far north of the n oast of the Manal bv the natives, fo On the mornii carlv, and bracel nineteen miles, w iiiinated at 4 v.\ village of Kagehy The people keenly alive to th( ance of this day' and as fully ser what this final jo Kagehy i promise wearied fr-imes, a! ropeans. They, a ourselves, looked to many weeks from our labours £ abundance of goo( "When the bug road," the Wan^ to it with cheers indeed, please O tagious. The na witness our depa lated our people very iar off — " h\ We dipped int j surmounted rid^e ravines, passed b^ NEARINO THE LAKE. 141 liven granite, gneiss, and trap rock, were 'still seen (resting tbe hills in irregular forms. Tliiongli a similar scene we travelled to Gambacliika, ill North Usmau, which is at an altitude of 4G00 feet above the sea, and fourteen miles from Ilulwa. As we approached the settlement, we caught a glimpse to the far north of the mountains of Urirwi, and to the north- east of the Manassa heights which, we were informed by the natives, formed the shores of the great lake. On the morning of the 27t]i February we rose up early, and braced ourselves for the long march of nineteen miles, which ter- minated at 4 P.M. at the village of Kagehyi. The people were as keenly alive to the import- ance of this day's march, and as fullv sensitive to what this final journey to Kngehyi promised their wearied frames, as we Eu- ropeans. They, as well as ourselves, looked forward to many weeks of rest from our labours and to an abundance of good food. When the bugle sounded the signal to *' Take the road," the Wanyamwezi and Wangwana responded to it ^vith cheers, and loud cries of " Ay indeed, ay indeed, please God ;" and their goodwill was con- tagious. The natives, who had mustered strongly to witness our departure, were af oted by it, and stimu- lated our people by declaring liat the lake was not very lar off — " but two or three hours' walk." We dipped into the basins and troughs of tlie land, surmounted ridge after ridge, crossed watercourses, and lavines, passed by cultivated fields, and through villages MKYAMWEZI PAGAZI. 1875. Feb. 2(5. (iivtnba- cliikii. 142 TIIROUGn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Feb. 27. Kagehyi. smellini^ strongly of cattle, by good-natured groups of natives, until, ascending a long gradual slope, we heard, on a sudden, hurrahing in front, and then we too, witli the lagging rear, knew that those in the van were in view of the Great Lake ! Frank Pocock impetuously strode forward until lio gained the b.ow of the hill. He took a long sweepin^r look at something, waved his hat, and came down to- wards us, his face beaming with joy, as he shoiite': out enthusiastically with the fervour of youth and hio'n spirits, " I have seen the Lake, Sir, and it is grand I'' Frederick Barker, riding painfully on an ass, and sighing wearily from illness and the length of the journey, lifted his head to smile his thanks to liis comrade. Presently we also reached the brow of the hill, where we found the exjoedition halted, and the first quick view- revealed to us a long broad arm of water, whicli a dazzling sun transformed into silver, some GOO feet below us, at the distance of three miles. A more careful and detailed view of the scene showed us that the hill on which we stood sloped gradually to the broad bay or gulf edged by a line of green wavv reeds and thin groves of umbrageous trees scattered along the shore, on which stood several small villages of conical huts. Beyond these, the lake stretched like a silvery plain far to the eastward, and away across to a boundary of dark blue hills and mountains, while several grey rocky islets mocked us at first with aii illusion of Arab dhows with whit« sails. The Wiiii- yamwezi struck up the song of triumph ; — Sing, O friends, sine; ; the journey is ended : Sing aloud, friends ; sing to tlie groat Nyanza. Sing all, sing loud, friends, sing to the great sea; Give your last look to Uio lands lieliind and then turn to thowa. Long time ago yon left your lands, Yodr Mivc:.s and children, your brothers and votjv ffivud^i Tell me, have you seen a sea like this Since you loft the great suit sea? *'/ HAVE SEEN TEE LAKE. SIB!" 143 Chorus. Then sinpr, friends, sing ; the joumey is ended : Sing aloud, friend; sing to tliis great sea. This sea is fresh, is good, and sweet; Your sea is salt, and bad, unfit to drink. Tins sea is like wine to drink for thirsty men ; The salt sea — bah! it makes men sick. Lift np your heads, men, and gaze around; Try if you can see its end. See, it stretches moons away, This great, sweet, fresh-water sea. We come fiora Usukuma land, The land of pastures, cattle, sheep and goats. The land of braves, warriors, and strong men, And, lo! this is the far-known Usukuma sea. Ye friends, ye scorned at us in other days. Ah, ha! Wangwana. What say ye now? Yc have seen the land, its pastures and its herds. Ye now see the far-known Usukuma sea. Kaduma's land is just below; He is rich in cattle, sheep, and goats. The Msungu is rich in cloth and beads; His hand is open, and his heart is free. To-morrow the Msungu must make us strong With meat and beer, wine and grain. W^e shall dance and play the livelong day, And eat and drink, and sing and play. I have in the above (as literal a translation as I can [render it) made no attempt at rhyme — nor, indeed, did tlie young, handsome, and stalwart Coryphens who delivered the harmonious strains with such startling effect. The song, though extemporised, was eminently dramatic, and when the chorus joined in, it made the liills ring with a wild and strange harmony. E,e-ani- iiiiatei by the cheerful music, we flung the flags to the Uveze, and filed slowly down the slopes towards the |fielils of Kageliyi. About half a mile from the villages we were surprised liv seeing hundreds of warriors decked with feathered liead-ilresses and armed to the teeth, advancing on the [jiiu towa-ls ns, and exhibiting, as they came, their lii' xt( ] ity v;ith bows and arrows and spears. They had m first been alarmed at the long procession filing down Itl.t-' liill, iniiiy'inin^" tliat we were the ubicpitous Mirambo 1875. Feb. 27. EagehyL Hi TIIROUail THE I) AUK ('(tNTTSENT. 1875. Fel). 27. Kagfhyi. and Ills force, but, though discovering llieir error, tliov still thought it too good an opportunity to he lost fi,r showing tlieir hrav^ery, and therefore amused us witji tliis hy])lay. f^ungoro Tarih, an j\rah resident at Kngehyi, also despatched a messenger with words oj welcome, and an invitation to us to make Kngclivi our camp, as Prince Kaduma, chief of Kagehyi, \v;u< his faithful all v. :-^"i:r:pB0y^^ii^r^^^zM-^?^ — -J** VIEW OF KAGEIIYI KUOM TilK ICDGE (>F 'i ilE LAKE. (^From a i>hoto(jraph.) In a short time we had entered the wretched-lookind village, and Kjuhima was easily induced by Sungoroto proffer hospitalities to the strangers. A small conical hut about 20 feet in diameter, badly lighted, and ^viIll a strong smell of animal matter — its roof swarmed witH bold rats, which, with a malicious persistence, kep popping in and out of their nests in the straw roof, aiJ rushing over the widls — was placed at my disposal a> fl, store-room. Another sm;ill hut wjis piesenteJ to Frank .Pocock and Fi-cd Parker as their quarteis. In summing up, during the evening of our arrival :it| W. tliis rude village miles travelled b • meters and pock The time occupi Fel.rnary 27, 18^ into TO marchinrr IKAXK roCOCK. (/•, I (^ perceived that o Nles per day. Bn hnvct method of ;i pto include the t f'!"l IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 lli|2i 115 ■tt Uii 12.2 2.0 14 U4 Photographic Sciences Coiporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTIR.N.Y. MSM (716) •72-4503 ^< ,v <^ '^ 154 THIiOUGH TEE DARK CONTINENT. Tg75. fish, bales of cloth and beads of various kinds, odds March 8. ^nd ends of small possible necessaries were boxed, and i^agehyi. gi^g ^j^g declared, at last, to be only waiting for her crew. " Would any one volunteer to accompany me ? " A dead silence ensued. " Not for rewards and extra pay ? " Another dead silence : no one would volunteer. '* Yet I must," said I, " depart. Will you let me go alone ? " "No." " What then ? Show me my braves — those men who freely enlist to follow their master round the sea." All were again dumb. A^ppealed to individually, each said he knew nothing of sea life ; each man frankly declared himself a terrible coward on water. " Then, what am I to do ? " Manwa Sera said : — ** Master, have done with these questions. Command your party. All your people are your children, and they will not disobey you. While you ask them as a friend, no one will offer his services. Command them, and they will all go." c So I selected a chief, Wadi Safeni — the son of Safeni — and told him to pick out the. elect of the young men. Wadi Safeni chose men who knew nothing of boat life. Then I called Kacheche, the detective, and told him to ascertain the names of those young men who were accustomed to sea life, upon which Kacheche infoimed me that the young guides first selected by me at Baga- moyo were the sailors of the Expedition. After reflect- ing upon the capacities of the younger men, as tliey had developed themselves on the road, I made a list of ten sailors and a steersman, to whose fidelity I was willing to entrust myself and fortunes while coasting round the Victorian Sea. SPEKE GULF. 155 Accordingly, after drawing up instructions for Frank ipts. Pocock and Fred Barker on about a score of matters ^'""^ ®* concerning the wellbeing of the Expedition during my ^"* ** absence, I'.nd enHsting for them, by an adequate gift, the (roo(hvill of Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, I set sail on the 8th March 1875, eastward along the sliores of the broad arm of the lake which we first siglited, and which henceforward is known, in honour of its firat discoverer, as " Speke Gulf," » '-- 156 TUBOUan TUE DARK CONTINENT, CHAPTER YIII. 1875. Marcl) S. SpukeGulf. Afloat on the lake — We catch a j^nide — Saramlta's terror — Tlio Sliimecyu — Pyramid Point — The island of Ukerew^— In tlie haunts of crocodiles — Shizu Island — The hippopotami — Urnri — The headlands of Goshi — Bridge Island — Volcanoes — U-po-woh — The inebriates of Ugamha — Treachery at Maheta — Primitive man — The art of pleasing — A night at Uvuma — Mobbed by AVavunn — Barmecide fare — ]\ressage from Mtesa — " In the Kabaka's name " — Camp on Soweh Island. Afloat on the waters of Speke Gulf! The sky is gloomy and the liglit grey water has become a dull nshen grey; the rocks are bare and rugged; and tlie land, sympatliizing with the gloom above, appears silent and lonely. The people sigh dolorously, tlieir rowing is as that of men who think they are bound to certain death, and now and again wistful looks are thrown towards me as though they expected an order to return. Their hearts are full of misgivings. Slowly, however, we move through the dull, uead waters ; slowly we pass by the dull grey rocks of Lutari Point, and still slower do the boatmen row when tlie rugged rocks shut off the view of Kagehyi and front them with their bare rude masses. Five miles brought us to Igusa, a settlement doubtless pleasant enough under a fair sky, but bearing tliis afternoon its share of the universal gloom. Without a guide or interpreter, we bore in for a little reed-lined creek. A fisherman, with a head of hair resembling a thick mop, came down to the boat. lie had, it seems, readful chaos V Igusa. SARAMJJA, THE GUIDE. 157 visited Kageliyi two or three days before, and recog- 1875. ]iized US. A better acquaintance was soon begun, and ^''"■*=^'* ended in his becoming captivated with our ]iromises nf rewards and ottering In's services as guide. Tlie lioatmen were overjoyed; for the guide, whose name was Saramba, proved to have been one of Sungoro*s loatmen in some of that Arab's trading excursions to rriiri. We passed a cheerless night, for the rueds Turned out to be tlie haunt of a multitude of mos- (|iiitoes, and the air was cold. However, with Saramba ar; guide, we promised ourselves better quarters in future. At G A.M., after Saramba's ajDpearance, we resumed our voyage, a-nd continued on our way eastward, iHiig-ing to the shores of Sima. At 11 a.m. the clouds, which had long been gathering over the horizon to the north-west, discharged both squad and gale, and the ^iciie soon became wild beyond description. We >teered from the shore, and were soon involved in the 'nadful chaos of watery madness and uproar. The wind swept us over the fierce waves, the Ladi/ Alice lonnding forward like a wild courser. It 'lashed the waters into spray and foam, and hurled them over the "levoted crew and boat. With a mere rag presented to the gale, we drove unresistingly along. Strange islets in tlie neighbourhood of Mashakka became then objects of terror to us, but we passed them in safety and saw the grey hills of Magu far in front of us. The boat- men cowered to windward : Saramba had collapsed in terror, and had resignedly covered his moppy head with his loin-cloth. Zaidi Mganda, the steersman, and myself were the only persons visible above the gun- wale, and our united strengths were required to guide the boat over the raging sea. At 2 p.m. we came in view of tlie Slnmeeyu river, and, steering close to the little island of Natwari, swept round to leeward, and 158 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. March 10. ghimeeyu. through a calm water made our way into harbour, opposite the«ent-ance to t)ie river. The next day was beautiful. The wild waters of yesterday wtre calm as those of a pond. The loll hills of Magu, with all their bcre and treeless outline. stood out in fine relief. Opposite them, at al-)ut 1300 yards distant, were the brush-covered tops of tlie Mazaiiza heights ; while between them lay glittering the broad and noble creek which receives the tributt. flood of the Shimeeyu, the extreme southern reach ot Nile waters. The total length of the course of tliis river, as laid out on the chart, is 300 miles, wbicli gives the course of the Nile a length of 4200 miles: thus making it the second largest river in the world. The creek extends to a considerable distance, and then contracts to a width of about 400 yards, through whicli the Monangah, after uniting with the Luwamberii and the Duma rivers, discharges its brown waters. under the name of the Shimeeyu, into the lake. After an examination of these features, we continue'! our journey along the coast of Mazanza, which forms the eastern shore of the bay of Shimeeyu, passinir by the boldly rising and wooded hills of Manassa, At 4 P.M. we attempted to land in a small cove, but were driven away by a multitude of audacious hippo potami, wlio rushed towards us open-mouthed. Per- ceiving that they \TOup of stciile liills, which, as we proceed west along tlieiiortli side of the gulf, sink down into a naked pLiin. The liuana river empties itself into the head of the gulf Iv two narrow mouths through a low wooded shore. On the 12tli we continued to coast along Shahshi's low, bare plain, margined at the water's edge by eschi- iiomeua), and a little farther inland lined by mimosa, ilience past Iramba, a similar country to Shahshi, nntil we reached Pyramid Point, so christened from the sliape of its hills, but on running up into the bay (which has its greatest width at Rugedzi Strait), we found that Pyramid Point really forms the south- weiitcrn end of a mountain-range. One of the most coiiP|ticuous objects we saw, as we stood on the uplands of Usniau, looking towards the N.N.E., was this Pvramid Point, but at that time we had, of course, on Iv a dim idea of its ncifrhbourhood to the lake. Xear the Point is a group of small islands, the I principal being Kitaro, on which cattle and goats are found. Though the islanders obtain but a scanty sub- sistence from the soil, they find reason to congratulate tliemselves in that they are safe from tlie periodical raids laaJe by the Wajika, or "Wirigedi, a tribe un- pleasantly distinguished for the length of their knives and the breadth and weight of their spears. On one of tills group, which was uninhabited, we stayed to cook our mid-day meal. It appeared fair and pleasant enough from without — one mass of deepest verdure, h'itli a cone rising about 100 feet above the lake. Ipon exploring it, we found it to be a heap of gigantic |''"ck.«, between which the deposit of vegetable matter liii'l given birth to a forest of young trees, the spread- 100 TIJROUOJI TUB DAIiK CONTINENT. 1875. March 13. Nifuah. ing green foliage of which was rendered still more impervious to sunshine by a multitude of paiasiticil plants and llianes, which had woven the whole into as thick and dense a shade as I ever remember to liave seen. Below this mass of tangled branch and loaf thn thermometer descends to 70° Fahr. ; without, ex|)Os:assi extendinrc eastward. To the * '''*^ , * i"5 <-> o ^ L go well, ^e.st stretched an apparently boundless sea, its face riitlled by a strong breeze, and farther northward still loomed upward unknown lands, their contour broken now by rounded domes and again by sharp cones. The number of islands encountered next day proved ?D troublesome to us that we were compelled to cieep cautiously along the shore. As we neared Xiikidiiao, we observed the water change from its usual ckar grey colour to that of a rich brown, and, seeing a creek close by, felt fully assured that we had dis- (jvered some important river. As we entered, the creek widened, and disclosed picturesque features of outlined hill and wooded slope. We pulled steadily to its further extremitv, but the stream which entered lere was small, and oozed through a reedy marsh. We eii» 191 in proportion as the Usiikuma chief gave potatoes i875. to his guests. Saramba's wits were all this time under "^^"^ *' a cloud. He was still dressed in the primitive goatskin of his country, as greasy and dingy as a whaling cook's pan-cloth — the greasiest thing I ever saw. He was stared at, jeered, and flouted by the courtly, cleanly pages of the court, who by this time had taken such keen and complete mental inventories of my features, traits, and points of character as would have put to sliame even a Parisian newsmonger. " What land is this undressed pagan from ? " asked the pages, loud enough for poor Saramba to hear. " Regard the pagan's hair," said another. " He had better not let the Kahaka see him/' said a third. " He is surely a pagan slave — worth about a goat," remarked a fourth. " Not he. I would not buy him for a ripe banana," ventured a fifth. I looked up at Saramba, and half fancied that he paled. Poor Saramba ! " As soon as they are gone, off goes that mop, and we will dress yeu in white cloth," said Safeni, the coxswain, compassionately. But Baraka, one of the boatmen, an incorrigible scoffer, said, " What is the use ? If we give him cloth, will he wear it ? No ; he will roll it up and tie it with a piece of string, and save it for his mammy, or sell it in Usukuma for a goat." To my surprise the boatmen endeavoured to impress tlie fact on Saramba's mind that the Kahaka was a special personal friend of theirs ; that all these cattle, goats, and fowls were the Kahaka s usual gifts to Wan- .c^wana, and they endeavoured, with a reckless disregard for accuracy, to enumerate fabulous instances of his generosity to a number of other Safenis. Sarbokos, Barakas, and Zaidis, all natives, like themselves, of 192 THROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. April 5. UsuTara. Zanzibar. Let Englishmen never henceforth indulge in the illusion, or lay the flattering unction to their self-love, that they are the only people who have studied the art of " chaff." The Zanzibaris are perfect in the art, as the sordid barbarian Saramba discovered to his cost. The ninth hour of the day approached. We had bathed, brushed, cleaned ourselves, and were prepared externally and mentally for the memorable hour when we should meet the Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa. Two of the Kahakas pages, clad in a costume semi- Kingwana and semi-Kiganda, came to summon us — the Kingwana part being the long white shirt of Zanzibar, folded with a belt or band about the loins, the Kiganda part being the Sohari doti cloth depending from the right shoulder to the feet. " The Kahaka invites you to the burzah," said they. Forthwith we issue from our courtyard, five of the boat's crew on each side of me armed with Snider rifles. We reach a short broad street, at the end of which is a hut. Here the Kahaka is seated with a multitude of chiefs. Wakuiiiru * and Watongoleh, ranked from the throne in two opposing kneeling or seated lines, the ends being closed in by drummers, guards, executioners, pages, &c. &c. As we approached the nearest group, it opened, and the drummers beat mighty sounds. Tori's drumming being conspicuous from its sharper beat. The Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa rises and advances, and all the kneeling and seated lines rise — generals, colonels, chiefs, cooks, butlers, pages, executioners, &c. &c. The Kahaka, a tall, clean-faced, large-eyed, nervous- looking, thin man, clad in a tarbush, black robe, with a white shirt belted with gold, shook my hands warmly and impressively, and, bowing not ungracefully, invited * Wakungu is tho plural of mkum/u, a rank equivalent to " gcucral." Watougolch is the plural of mtunyokh, or " colonel." MTE8A, EMPEBOR OF UGANDA, 193 Usavara. me to be seated on an iron stool. I waited for him to i875. show the example, and then I and all the others seated ;^p"^ ** ourselves. He first took a deliberate survey of me, which I returned with interest, for he was as interesting to me as I was to him. His impression of me was that I was younger than Speke, not so tall, but better dressed. This I gathered from his criticisms as confided to his chiefs and favourites. My impression of him was that he and I would hecome better acquainted, that I should make a convert of him, and make him useful to Africa — but what other impressions I had may be gathered from the remarks I wrote that evening in my diary : — ' ' " As I had read Speke's book for the sake of its geographical infor- mation, I retained but a dim remembrance of his description of hib life in Uganda. If I remember rightly, Speke described a youthful prince, vain and heartless^ a wholesale murderer and tyrant, one who delighted in fat women. Doubtless he described what he saw, but it is far from being t!^e state of things now. Mtesa has impressed me as being an intelligent and distinguished prince, who, if aided in time by virtuous philanthropists, will do more for Central Africa than fifty years of Gospel teaching, unaided by such authority, can do. I think I see in him the light that shall lighten the darkness of this benighted region ; a prince well worthy the most hearty sympathies that Europe can give him. In this man I see the possible fruition of Livingstone's hopes, for with his aid the civilization of Equatorial Africa becomes feasible. I remember the ardour and love which animated Livingstone when he spoke of Sekelctu ; had he seen Mtesa, his ardour and love for him had been ten- fold, and his pen and tongue would have been employed in calling all good men to assist him." Five days later I wrote the following entry : — "I see that Mtesa is a powerful Emperor, with great influence over his neighbours. I have to-day seen the turbulent Mankorongo, king of Usui, and Mirambo, that terrible phantom who disturbs men's minds in Unyamwezi, through their embassies kneeling and tendering their tribute to liim. I saw over 3000 soldiers of Mtesa nearly half civilized. I saw alx)ut a hundred chiefs who might be classed in the same scale as the men of Zanzibar and Oman, clad in as rich rolxjs, and armed in the same fashion, and have witnessed with astonishment such order and law as is obtainable in semi-civilized countries. All this is the result 194 THEOUGE THE DABK CONTINENT. 1875. ®^ * P°°^ Muslim's labour; his name is Mulcy bin Salim. He it \rai) April 5. who first began teaching hero the doctrines of Islam. Fulso aud Usavara. contemptible as these doctrines are, they are preferable to the ruthless instincts of a savage despot, whom Speke and Grant left wallowin" in the blood of women, and I honour the memory of Muley bin Salim — Muslim and slave-trader though he be — the poor priest who has wrought this happy change. With a strong desire to improve still more the character of Mtesa, I shall begin building on the foundation stones laid by Muley bin Salim. I shall destroy his belief in Islam, and teach the doctrines of Jesus of Nazareth." It may easily be gathered from these entries that a feeh'ng of admiration for Mtesa must have begun verv early, and that either Mtesa is a very admirable man, or that I am a very impressionable traveller, or that Mtesa is so perfect in the art of duplicity and acted so clever a part, that I became his dupe. The chief reason for admiration lay, probably, in tlie surprise with which I viewed the man whom Speke had beheld as a boy — and who was described by him through about two hundred pages of his book as a vain, foolish, peevish, headstrong youth and a murderous despot — sedate and composed in manner, intelligent in his questions and remarks beyond anything I expected to meet in Africa. That 1 should see him so well dressed, the centre of a court equally well dressed and intelligent, that he should have obtained supremacy over a great region into which moneyed strangers and soldiers from Cairo and Zanzibar flocked for the pake of its supreme head, that his subjects should speak of him with respect, and his guests, so far as I could gather, honour him, were minor causes, which, I venture to consider, were sufficient to win my favourable judg- ment. Tliat he should have been so royally liberal in his supplies to me, have proffered other courtesies in a toTie of sincerity, and have appeared to me a kindly, friendly soul, who affected all tlie dignity of one who entertains a vast respect for himself and his position without affronting or giving wanton offence to those DESCRIPTION OF MTESA. 195 around him who also have wants, hopes, and self-respect, iQiiy also be offered as reasons which contributed not a little towards creating a favourable impression on me. I am aware that there are negrophobists who may attribute this conduct of Mtesa to a natural gift for duplicity. He is undoubtedly a man who possesses great natural talents, but he also shows sometimes the wavwardness, petulance, and withal the frank, exuberant, joyous moods, of youth. I will also admit that Mtesa can hepolitiCf as, indeed, future pages will show, but he lias also a child's unstudied ease of manner. I soon Eaw that he was highly clever, and possessed of the abilities to govern, but his cleverness and ability lacked the mannerisms of a European's. Whether or no I became Mtesa's dupe will be seen in the chapters on Uganda. Meanwhile, he appeared to me to be a generous prince and a frank and intelligent man, and one whose character was well worth studying for its novel intensity and e>: treme originality, and also as one whom I judged could be made to subserve higher ends than he suspected he was fashioned for. I met his friendly advances with the utmost cordiality, and the burzah concluded at sunset, with the same cere- I mony that had inaugurated it, leaving Mtesa and myself I mutually pleased and gratified with our acquaintance. A description of Mtesa's person was written in my I diary on the third evening of my visit to him, from p'hicb I quote : — "April 7. — In person Mtesa is tall, probably 6 feet 1 inch, and slender. I He has very intelligent and agreeable features, reminding me of some of the faces of the great stone images at Thebes, and of the siatucs in the museum at Cairo. Ho has the same fulness of lips, but their grossness jis relieved by the general expression of amiability blended with dignity it pervades his face, and the large, lustrous, lambent eyes that lend it la strange beauty, and are typical of the race from which I believe him Ito have sprung. His colour is of a dark red brown, of a wonderfully Ismooth surface. When not engaged in council, ho throws oil uure- Iservedly the bearing that characterizes him when on the throne, and VOL. I, , P 1875. April 7. Usavara. 193 THBOUan THE DAEK CONTINENT. i: 1875. April 7. Unvara. gives rein to his humour, indulging in hearty peals of laughter. He seems to be interested in the discussion of the manners and customs of European courts, and to be enamoured of hoaring of the wonders of civilization. He is ambitious to imitate as much as lies in his power the ways of the white man. When any piece of information is given him he takes upon himself the task of translating it to his wives and cliiefs though many of the latter understand the Swahili language as well as ho does himself." On this day I recorded an interesting event wliicli occurred in the morning. Mtesa, about 7 a.m., sallied out of his quarters, accompanied by a host of gnards, pages, standard bearers, fifers, drummers, chiefs, native guests, claimants, &c., and about two hundred women of his household, and as he passed by my courtyard, lie sent one of his pages to request my presence. Wliile he passed on, I paid some attention to my toilet, and made as presentable an appearance as my clotlies-baii' enabled me, and then, accompanied by two of my boat's crew as gunbearers, followed the court to the lake. Mtesa was seated on an iron stool, the centre of a larce group of admiring women, who, as soon as I appeared, focussed about two hundred pairs of lustrous, humid eyes on my person, at which he laughed. " You see, * Standee,' " said he, " how my women look at you ; they expected to see you accompanied by a woman of your own colour. I am not jealous though. Come and sit down." Presently Mtesa whispered an order to a page, who sprang to obey, and responding to his summons, there darted into view from the bend in Murchison Bay west of Usavara forty magnificent canoes, all painted an ochreous brown, which I perceived to be the univer- sally favourite colour. En passant^ I have wondered Whether they admire this colour from an idea that it resembles the dark bronze of their own bodies. For pure Waganda are not black y aiiy means. The women and chiefs of Mtesa, who may furr.ibh the best specimens of Waganda, are nearly all of a bronze »a- > ■ .;*•* rW •■■.-:« A NAVAL REVIEW. 197 or a dark reddish brown, with peculiar smooth, soft skins, rendered still more tender and velvety to the touch by their habit of shampooing with butter. Some of the women, I observed, were of a very light red-gold colour, while one or two verged on white. The native cloths — the national dress — which depended from the n^ht shoulders of the larger number of those not immediately connected with the court were of a light brown also. It struck me, when I saw the brown skins, brown robes, and brown canoes, that brown must be the national colour. These forty canoes, which now rode on the calm grey-green waters of Murchison Bay, contained in the aggregate about 1200 men. The captain of each canoe was dressed in a whito cotton shirt and a cloth head- cover, neatly folded turban fashion, while the admiral wore over his shirt a crimson jacket, profusely deccrated with gold braid, and on his head the red fez of Zanzibar. Each captain, as he passed us, seized shield and spear, and, with the bravado of a matador addressing the Judge of the Plaza to behold his prowess, went through the performance of defence and attack by water. The admiral won the greatest applause, for he was the Hector of the fleet, and his actions, though not remark- ably graceful, were certainly remarkably extravagant. The naval review over, Mtesa commanded one of the captains of the canoes to try and discover a crocodile or a hippopotamus. After fifteen minutes he returned with the report that there was a young crocodile asleep on a rock about 200 yards away. *' Now, Stamlee," said Mtesa, " show my women how white men can shoot." To represent all the sons of Japhet on this occasion was a great responsibility, but I am happy to bay that — whether owing to the gracious influence of some unseen divinity who has the guardianship of their interests or whether from mere luck — I nearly p 2 1875. April 7. Usavara> 198 TEEOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. Usavara. 1875. severed the head of the young crocodile from its bodv April 10. ^^ ^i^g distance of 100 yards with a three-ounce ball an act which was accepted as conclusive proof iLat all white men are dead shots. In ihe afternoon we amused ourselves with tarpet practice, at which an accident occurred that iniiiht have produced grave results. A No. 8 double-barrelled rifle was fractured in Mtesa's hands at the second shot, but fortunately without injuring either him or the page on whose shoulders it rested. General alarm prevailed for a short time, until, seeing that it was about to be accepted as a bad omen, I examined the rifle and showed Mtesa an ancient flaw in the biirrel, which his good sense perceived had led to the fracture. The gun was a very old one, and had evidently seen much service. On the 10th of April the court broke up its himtinir lodges at Usavara, on Murchison Bay, and moved to tlie capital, whither I was strongly urged to follow. Mtesn, escorted by about two hundred musketeers and the great Wakungu and their armed retainers, travelled quickly; but owing to my being obliged to house my boat from the hot sun, I did not reach the capital until 1 p.m. The road had been prepared for his Imperial Majesty's hunting excursion, and was 8 feet wide, through jungle and garden, forest and field. Bcautiliil landscapes were thus enjoyed of roiling land and placid lake, of gigantic tamarinds and gum-trees, of extensive banana groves and plantations of the ficus, from the bark of which the national dress, or mhugu, is made. Tlie peculiar dome-like huts, each with an attempt at a por- tico, were buried deep in dense bowers of plantains \\ liicli filled the air with the odour of their mellow rich fruit.! The road wound upward to the summits of green liil's vhich commanded exquisite prospects, and down again into the sheltered bosoms of woody nooks, and vale.^ | THE IMPEBIAL CAPITAL. 109 Rubaga. and tree-embowered ra\ ines. Streams of clear water isT.n. murmured tlirough thebe depressions, as they flowed "^p'l^^'J^* towfirds Murcliison Bay. The verdure was of a brillifint green, freshened by the uniailing rains of the Equator ; the sky was of the bluest, and the heat, though (Treat, was tempered by the hill breezes, and frequently liv the dense foliage overhead. Witliin three hours' march from Usavara, we saw tho capital crowning the summit of a smooth rounded hill — a large cluster of tall conical grass huts, in the centre of wliich rose a spacious, lofty, barn-like structure. The large building, we were told, was the palace ! tho hill, Rubaga ; the cluster of huts, the imperial capital ! From each side of the tall cane fence enclosing the grass liuts on Rubaga hill radiated very broad avenues, imperial enough in width. Arriving at the base of the bill, and crossing by a *' corduroy " road over a broad slimy ooze, w^e came up to one of these avenues, tho ground of which was a reddish clay strongly mixed with the detritus of hematite. It gave a clear breadth of 100 feet of prepared ground, and led by a gradual ascent to the circular road which made the circuit of the hill outside the palace enclosure. Once on the dome-like height, we saw that we had arrived by the back avenue, for the best view of this capital of magni- ficent distances was that which was obtained by looking from the burzah of the palace, and carrying the eve over the broad front highway, on each side of which, as far as could be defined from the shadows of the burzah, the Wakungu had their respective courts and houses, embowered in gardens of banana and fig. Like the enclosure round the palace courts and quarters, each avenue was fenced with tall matete (water cane) neatly set very close together in uniform rows. The by-streets leading from one avenue . to another were narrow and crooked. I. ,1 W 200 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. While I stood admiring the view, a page came iin ^F»i 10. ^^^^ kneeling, announced that he had been despatched '" *^'^' by the Emperor to show me my house. Following him, I was ushered within a corner lot of tlie fenced square, between two avenues, into what I might appro- priately term a " garden villa " of Uganda. My house, standing in the centre of a plantain garden about 100 feet square, was 20 feet long, and of a marquee shape, with a miniature portico or eave projecting like a bonnet over tlie doorway, and was divided into two apartments. Close by, albout 30 feet off, were three dome-like huts for the boat's crew and the kitchen, and in a comer of the garden was a railed space for our bullocks and goats. Were it not that I was ever anxious about mv distant camp in Usukuma, I possessed almost every- thing requisite to render a month's stay very agreeable, and for the time I was as proud of my tiny villa as a London merchant is of his country-house. In the afternoon I was invited to the palace. A number of people in brown robes, or white dresses, some with white goatskins over their brown robes, others with cords folded like a turban round their heads, which I heard were distinguishing marks of the executioners, were also ascending to the burzah. Court after court was passed until we finally stood upon the level top in front of the great house of cane and straw which the Waganda fondly term Kibuga^ or the Palace. The space at least was of aulic extent, and the prospect gained at every point was also worthy of the imperial eyes of the African monarch. On all sides rolled in grand waves a voluptuous land of sunshine, and plenty, and early summer verdure, •cooled by soft breezes from the great equatorial fresh- water sea. Isolated hill-cones, similar to that of Hubaga, or square tabular masses, rose up from the MTESA'S PALACE. 201 beautiful landscape to attract, like mysteries, the curious is-s. stranger's observation, and villages and banana groves ^^^}^ ^^' of still fresher green, far removed on the crest of distant swelling ridges, announced that Mtesa owned a land worth loving. Dark sinuous lines traced the winding courses of deep ravines filled with trees, and mssy extents of gently undulating ground marked the pastures ; broader depressions suggested the cultivated wardens and the grain fields, while on the far verge of the horizon we saw the beauty and the charm of the land melting into the blues of distance. There is a singular fascination about this country. The land would be loved for its glorious diversified prospects even though it were a howling wilderness ; but it owes a great deal of the power which it exercises lover the imagination to the consciousness that in it {dwells a people peculiarly fascinating also. "How I comes it," one asks, " that this barbarous, uneducated, and superstitious monarch builds upon this height?" iNot for protection, surely, for he has smoothed the iiineven ground and formed broad avenues to approach it, and a single torch would suffice to level all his fences? Does he, then, care for the charms of the pro- Ispect ? Has he also an eye to the beauties of nature ? Were this monarch as barbarous as other African [chiefs whom I had met between Zanzibar and Napoleon Channel, he would have sought a basin, or the slope of some ridge, or some portion of the shores of the lake where his cattle might best graze, and would there liave constructed his grass dwellings. But this man kilds upon a hill that he may look abroad, and take a large imperial view of his land. He loves ample room ; liis house is an African palace, spacious and lofty ; large clean courtyards surround it ; he has spacious quarters [for his harem, and courtyards round those ; he has spacious quarters for his guards, and extensive court- 202 TIIROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April 10. liubaga. ^i yards round those ; a cane enclosure surrounds all, juu] beyond the enclosure again is a wide avenue runniii^j round the palace fences. His people, great and small, imitate him as much as lies in their power. Tliey me well dressed, and immodesty is a crime in the laud. Yet I am still in Africa, and only yesterday, as it were, I saw naked men and naked women. It may be that such a monarch and people fascinate me as mucli jis their land. The human figures in the landscape have, indeed, as much interest for me as the gracious land- Bcape itself. Tbe drums sounded. Mtesa had seated himself ou the throne, and we hastened to take our seats. Since the 5th April, I had enjoyed ten interviews with Mtesa, and during all I had taken occasion to intro- duce topics wbich would lead up to the subject of Christianity. Nothing occurred in my presence but I contrived to turn it towards effecting that which had become an object to me, viz. his conversion. There was no attempt made to confuse him with tbe details of any particular doctrine. I simply drew for liim the image of the Son of God humblingHimself for tbe good of all mankind, white and black, and told him how, while He was in man's disguise, He was seized and crucified bv wicked people who scorned His divinity, and yet out of His great love for them, while yet suffering on the cross, He asked His great Father to forgive them. I showed the difterence in character between Him whom white men love and adore, and Mohammed, whom the Arabs revere ; how Jesus endeavoured to teach mankind that we should love all men, excepting none, while Mohammed taught his followers that the slaying of the pagan and the unbeliever was an act that meritel Paradise. I left it to Mtesa and his chiefs to decide j whicli was the worthier character. I also sketcliedin brief the history of religious belief from Adam to / MEET A WHITE MAN. 203 Mohammed. I liad also begun to translate to liim the Ten Commandments, and Idi, the Emperor's writer, transcribed in Kiganda the words of the Law as given to him in choice Swahili by Robert Feruzi, one of my lioat's crew, and a pupil of the Universities Mission at Zanzibiir. The enthusiasm with which I launched into this work of teaching was soon communicated to Mtesa and some of his principal chiefs, who became so absorb- iiitrly interested in the story as I gave it to them that liitle of other business was done. Tlie political burzah and seat of justice had now become an alcove, where only the moral and religious laws were discussed. Before w^e broke up our meeting Mtesa informed me that I should meet a white man at his palace the next day. " A white man, or a Turk ? " " A white man like yourself," repeated Mtesa. '■ No ; impossible ! " "Yes, you will see. He comes from Masr (Cairo), from Gordoom (Gordon) Pasha." "Ah, very well, I shall be glad to see him, and if he is really a white man, I may probably stay with you four or five days longer," said 1 to Mtssa, as I fihook hands with him, and bade him good-night. The *' white man," reported to be coming the next day, arrived at noon with great eclat and flourishes of trumpets, the sounds of which could be heard all ov€t the capital. Mtesa hurried off a page to invite me to his burzah. I hastened up by a private entrance. Mtesa and all his chiefs, guards, pages, executioners, claimants, guests, drummers and fifers were already there, en (jrande tenue. Mtesa was in a fever, as I could see by the paling of the colour under his eyes and his glowing eyeballs. The chiefs shared their master's excitement. " What shall we do," he asked, " to welcome him ? " 1S75. A|>ril 10 i ! i ; 204 TimOUQE THE DARK CONTINENT. «( Rubiiga. 1R75. " Ob, form your troops in line from the entrance to Apni 11. ^i^g biirzah down to the gate of the outer court, and present arms, and as he comes within the gate, let your drums and fifes sound a loud welcome." " Beautiful 1 " said Mtesa. " Hurry Tori, Chamba- ran go, Sekeboho ; form tliem in two lines just as Stamlee says. Oh, that is beautiful ! And shall we fire guns, Stamlee ? " *' No, not until you shake hands with him ; and as he is a soldier, let the guards fire, then they will not injure anyone." Mtesa's flutter of excitement on this occasion made me think that there must have been a somewhat similar scene before my landing at Usavara, and that Tori must have been consulted frequently upon the form of ceremony to be adopted. What followed upon the arrival of tlie white man at the outer gate had best be told us an interlude by the stranger himself. ' "At two o'clock, the weather having cleored up, Mtesa sent a raesseTicer to inform me that he was ready to receive me. Notice is given in the camp; every one puts on his finest clothes; at last we nre ready; my brave Soudanians look quite smart in their red jackets and white trousers. I place myself at their head; trumpets flourish and drums sound as we follow an avenue from eighty-five to a himdred yards wide, running direct north and south, and terminating at Mtesii's palace." . . . " On entering this court., I am greeted with a frightful uproar ; a thousand instruments, each one more outlandish than the other, produce the most discordant and deafening sounds. Mtesa's body-guard ciu-ryiiig guns ])resent arms on my appearance ; the king is standing at the entrance of the recei^tion hall, I approach and bow to him a hi turf.tt lltj holds out his hand, which I press; I immediately perceive a sunburnt European to the left of the king, a traveller, whom I imagine to be Cameron. We exchange glances without speaking. " IMtesa enters the reception room, and we follow him. It is a narrow hall about 60 feet long by 15 feet wide, the ceiling of which, slnpiiig down at tlie entrance, is supported by a double row of wooden ]iillar3 which divide the room into two aisles. The principal and central roura is unoccupied, and leads to the king's throne; the two nisles are filled witii the great dignitaries and chief officers. At each pillar standim my thoughts ; I was totally ignorant of the olyect of his J]xpedition. " I take li ave of the king, who meanwhile has been amusing liimsclf by making my unlucky soldiers parade and flourish their trumpets. I shake 1 ands with Mr. Stanley, and ask him to honour me with his presence at dinner. "T had scarcely been more than a few minutes in my hut when ]h. Stanley arrived. After having mutually expressed the pleasure our meeting gave us, Mr. Stanley informed me that Caniei'on had written from Ujiji that he wr;s starting for the Congo. Mr. Cameron, he told me, must have been much embarrassed by the question of money, having exceeded the amount allowed by the Eoyal Geographical Society. At 1 jiji, he would have lost all his companions, and would be actually alone. Ih. Stanley was loud in his praises of Cameron, and hoped that lie would succeed in his expedition." .... "Leaving his expedition at Usukuraa, Mr. Stanley embarked with eleven men on the Victoria Lake, in a small boat which he liad brought ^ithhim; he explored all the eastern part of the lake, penetrating into all the bays, gulfs, and creeks, and taking the bearings of islands and capes. I saw Mr. Stanley's work, which is very extensive. He sliowed me some j curious sketches of islands he had seen ; the islands of the Bridge, the Grotto, and the Sphinx. The lirst is a natural bridge of granite, with all tiie apiH'iirance of a bridge made by the hand of man; the second is like the grotto of the enchantress Calypso ; the third greatly resembles tha Egyptian Sphinx." .... . 1875. April 11. Kubaga. ; 206 THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT. 1875. April 11. liubaga. Colonel Linant de Bellefonds having thus descriloj our meeting, there remains but little for me to add. As soon as I saw him approaching the burzah, I recognized him to be a Frenchman. Not being intro- duced to him — and as I was then but a mere guest of Mtesa, with whom it was M. Linant's first desire to converse — I simply bowed to him, until he had con- cluded addressing the Emperor, when our introduction took place as he has described. was delig hte d at seeing him, and nnicli more delighted when I discovered that M. Linant was a very agreeable man. I observed that there was a vast differ- ence between his treatment of his men and the manner in which I treated mine, and that his intercourse with tlie Waganda was conducted after exactly opposite principles to those which governed my conduct. Pie adopted a half military style which the Waganda ill brooked, and many things uncomplimentary to him were uttered by them. He stationed guards at the entrance to his courtyard to keep the AVaganda at a distance, except those bearing messages from Mtesa, while my courtyard was nearly full of Watongolehs, soldiers, pages, children, with many a dark-brown woman listening witli open ears to my conversation with the Waganda. In fact, my courtyard from morning to night swarmed with all classes, for I loved to draw the natives to talk, so that perfect confidence might be established between us, and I might gain, an insight into their' real natures. By this freer converse with them I became, it seemed, a universal favourite, and obtained information sufficient to fill two octavo volumes. M. Linant passed many pleasant hours with me. Though he had started from Cairo previous to my departure from Zanzibar, and consequently could com- municate no news from Europe, I still felt that for a brief period I enjoyed civilized life. His cuisine was THE PRO CESS OF CONVERSION. 207 after tlie French fashion. He possessed French beans 1875. and oHve oil, various potted meats of Paris brands, -^p^'-^^-is. mtk de foie gras and Bologna sausage, sardines and Marseilles biscuits, white sugar, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, and tea. If we add to this list the articles that the natives and Mtesa's bounty furnished — milk, beef, kid, * green and ripe bananas, eggs, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, melons, and cassava flour — it will be seen that his cook liad abundance of material wherewith to supply and satisfy our moderate gastronomic tastes. The pleasure we mutually felt in each other's company, and the exceptional good health which blessed us, sharpened our appetites and improved our digestion. The religious conversations which I had begun wUh Mtesa were maintained in the presence of M. Lmant de Bellefonds, who, fortunately for the cause I had in view, was a Protestant.* For when questioned by Mtesa about the facts which I had uttered, and which had been faithfully transcribed, M. Linant, to Mtesa's astonishment, employed nearly the same words, and delivered the same responses. The remarkable fiict that two white men, who liad never met before, one having arrived from the south-east, the other having emerged from the north, should nevertheless both know the same things, and respond in the same words, charmed the popular mind without the burzah as a wonder, and was treasured in Mtesa's memory as being miraculous. The period of my stay with Mtesa drew to a close, and I requested leave to depart, begging the fulfil- ment of a promise he liad made to me that he would luriiish me with transport sufhcieiit to convey the Expe- flitiun by water from Kagehyi in Usidcuma to Uganda. * In tlie original mamiscript, which is in the possession of General C. P. Stone, Chief of the Staff in his IIi<:!;]ines8 the Kliedivo's service, M. Linant has alluded in the most flattering manner to these hours cleanly life, are regarded as the helots of Uganda. On the 2ist we made a tedious, eventless voynge nlong the low, swampy, and jungly shores of Ujaju to Diinio, a village situated on the mainland nearly opposite the extreme southern end of Sesse Island. From a curious stony hill near Diimo, which bears truces of ancient effects of water, we obtained a distant Q 2 1875. April 20. Katonsja. 214 THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT. 1875, view of the outskirts of a pastoral plateau risin^ April 21. ^vestward. Magassa appeared in the eve^.ing from liis un- successful quest for canoes. He gave a graphic account of the dangers he had encountered at Sesse whose inhabitants declared they would ratlier Le beheaded by the Kahaka than risk themselves on an endless voyage on the stormy sea, but he liad obtained a promise from Magura, the admiral in cliarfre of the naval yards at Sesse, that he would endeavour to despatch fourteen canoes after us. Meanwhile, Magassa had left me at Chiwanuko with five canoes, but re- turned with only two, alleging that the other three leaVed so much that they were not seawortliy. He suggested also t'lat, as Magura might cause great delay if left aione, I should proceed with Sentum and Sentageya, and leave him in charge of five. Having witnessed his vanity and heard of his atrocious conduct near Chiwanuko, I strongly suspected him of desiring to effect some more mischief at Dumo, but I was powerless to interpose the strong arm, and there- fore left him to answer for his shortcomings to Mtesa, who would doubtless hear of them before long. After leaving Dumo and Sesse north of us, we had a boundless horizon of water on the east, while on the west stretched a crescent-shaped bay, bordered by fi dense forest, ending south at Chawasimba Point. From here another broad bay extends southwards, and is terminated by the northernmost headland of Usongora, Into this bay issues the Alexandra Nile in one powerful deep stream, which, from its volume and dark iron colour, may be traced several miles out. At its mouth it is about 150 yards wide, and at two miles above narrows to about 100 yards. We attempted to ascend higher, but the current was so strong that we made but slow progress, ^hiraeeyu river THE MOTHER OF '.'HE VICTORIA NILE. 215 and after an nscent of three miles were obliged to abandon it. The plain on either side has a breadth of from five to ten miles, which during the rainy .^eason is inundated throughout its whole extent. The deepest soundings we obtained were 85 feet. I know no other river to equal this in magnitude among the affluents of the Victoria Nyanza. The Sliimeevu river thus becomes the second larf^rest affluent of the lake, and the two united would form a river equal to that which has its exit by the Ripon Falls. The Waganda Watongolehs, Sentuni and Sentageya, call the Alexandra Nile the " Mother of the River at Jill ja " or the Ripon Falls. The Alexandra Nile constitutes a natural boundary between the sovereignty of Uganda and its subject kinjidoms of Karagwe and Usongora, which begin fcoutli of the river. The plain of the Alexandra stretches south a few miles to an irregular line of grassy and treeless mountains, which are the cha- racteristics of the fine pastoral countries of Usongora and Karagwe. At Lupassi Point the mountains project steeply, almost cliff-like, into the lake, with heights varying from 200 feet to 500 feet. The steep slopes bristle at many points with grey gneiss rocks — massy debris from the mountain bi'ows. Near this point I discovered a stream which had a fall of 3 feet issuing from an orifice in a rocky cliff, though above it there was not the faintest sign of a watercourse. In the gullies and clefts of the cliff-sides most beautiful ferns abounded. I managed to climb to the top of the bluffs, and to my surprise overlooked a plateau, with a grandly rolling surface, covered with pasture and almost tree- less, except near the villages, where grew dense groves of bananas. Further west, however, the plateau heaves ^ipwards into mountain masses of the same naked 1875. A|pril. Lu])assi I'uiDt. 21G Tiinouon THE dark continent. 1875. A|ii'il. ^lukuugo. clmi'MctcT. L()okin<^ townrds tlie east, directly in fiont of Nortli Usoiii^ora, fitrelcbes an apparently illiniit;ililu silveiy Kea ; hut towards tlie south one or two loffy islands are visible, situated about twenty-five miles from tbe mainland, serene and royal in tbeir liine exclusi\eiiess. Tbe first villap^e we baited at on tbe coast of Usniicrnra was Makonp-o. It nestles in a sbeltered nook in a bay-l;ke indentjition of tbe lofty mountain wall crowded with banana groves and buts scattered under tbeir iiiijUMie- trable sbjides — with a strip of grey gravel beach f^entlv sloping irom the water's edge about 40 feet upward [o where it meets the prodigious luxury of tbe grove. There were about a dozen natives clad in dingy goat- skins seated on the beach, sucking the potent maraniba from gourds when we came up, and without question we baided our boat and two canoes high and dry. To our greetings the natives responded readily and civilly enough. With rather glazed eyes they offered us some of the equatorial nectar. The voyage had been long on this day, and we were tired, and it might be that we sighed for such cordial refreshing drink as was now proffered to us. At any rate, we accepted tlieir hospitable gift, and sucked heartily, with bland approval of the delicacy of the hquid, and cordial thanks for their courtesy. An observation for longi- tude was taken, tbe natives looking on pleased and gratified. To all our questions as to the names of the localities and islands in view tlu^y replied like friends. Sunset came. AVe bade each other good-night. At midnight there was a fearful drumming heard, which kept us all awake from the sheer violence of the sound, *Ms anything wrong?" we demanded of Sentum and Sentjigeya. " Oh, no 1 " they answered. Still the drumming sounded hoarsely through the dark night, and tbe de^iire for sleep fled. THE SAVAGES OF MA KONGO. 217 My men were all up before dawn, iirtpatient for the (lav. Instinct, startled by that ominous drummiiiir, warned them that somethinf]^ was wrong. I was still in my boat with drawn curtains, though able to com- iiiunicatu with my people. At sight of the natives Hafeni, the coxswain, hailed me. As I was dressed, I nrranc^ed my guns and soon stepped out, and my astonishment was great when I perceived that there were lietweon 200 and 300 natives, all in war costume ami armed with spears, and bows and arrows, and Lmg-liandled cleaver-like weapons, with ample and loiij^ cane shields for defence, so close to us. P^or this terrible-looking body of men stood only about thirty paces off regarding us steadfastly. It was Midi a singular position, so unusual and so strangely tlieatrical, that, feeling embarrassed, I hastened to I leak the silence, and advanced towards a man whom I recognized as the elder who had given me some native wine on the previous evening. "What means this, my friend ? " I asked. " Is any- thing wrong ? " He replied rapidly, but briefly and sternly, in the Kinvambu language, which as I did not understand, I called the Mtongoleh Sentum to translate for me. " AVhat do you mean by drawing your canoes on our leach?" I was told he asked. " Tell him we drew them up lest the surf should [latter them to pieces during the night. The winds are rough sometimes, and waves rise high. Our canoes are our homes, and we are far from our friends who [are waiting for us. Were our canoes injured or broken, low should we return to our friends ? " He next demanded, " Know you this is our country ? ** " Yes, but are we doing wrong ? Is the beach so soft liat it can be hurt by our canoes ? Have we cut down Jour bananas, or entered into your houses ? Have wo A|>ril. n 218 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April. Makoiic;o. molested any of your people ? Do yoii not see our fires by which we slept exposed to the cold night ? " "Well, you must leave this place at once. "We do not want you here. Go ! " "That is easily done," I answered, "and had von told us last night that our presence was not welcouii' to you, we should have camped on yonder island." " What did you come here for ?" *'We came to rest for the night, and to buy food, and is that a crime ? Do you not travel in your canoes: Supposing people received you as you received us this morning, what would you say ? Would you not s;iv they were bad ? Ah, my friend, I did not expect that you who were so good yesterday would turn out thus ! But never mind ; we will go away quick! v and quietly, and the Kabaka Mtesa shall hear of this, and judge between us." " If you wish food, I will send some bananas to yonder island, but you must go away from this, lec:t the people, who wish to fight you, should break out." We soon shoved the boat and two canoes into tlio water, and I and my boat's crew embarked and rowed away a few yards. But Sen turn was angry with tlie people, and instead of quietly departing, was loudly expostulating with them. To prevent mischief and the | massacre of his entire party, I shouted to Sentum, com- manding him to embark at once, which after a sliortj time he obeyed, growling. We steered for Musira Island, about three miles frnmi Makongo, where we found four or five canoes from Kamiru's countrv loaded with coifee and butter. The| Waganda, Sentum and Sen ta gey a, with feelings em- bittered against the natives, seized upon several packages of coffee, wliich drew a loud remonstnuiee from the natives. The Waganda sailors, ever ready ftr a scramble, followed their chiefs' example, and assistei A QUIET RAMBLE. 219 in despoiling the natives, which caused one of them to appeal to me. I was busy directing the boat's crew to set my tent, when I was thus made acquainted with the conduct of the Waganda. The property taken from them was restored immediately, and Sentum and Sentageya were threatened with punishment if they molested them further, and the natives were advised to leave lor another island about five miles north of us, as soon as the lake should become calm. About 10 A.M. the chief of Makongo, true to his pro- mise, sent us ten bunches of green bananas, sufficient for one day's provisions for the sixty-two men, Waganda and "Wangwana, of whom our party consisted. After these events I strolled alone into the dense and tangled luxuriance of the jungle woods which lay hehind our camp. Knowing that the people would be discussing their bananas, that no foe could molest them, and that they could not quarrel with any natives —there being nobody else on tlie island of Musira but ourselves — I was able to leave them to pass the time as they might deem most agreeable. Therefore, with all the ardour of a boy, I began my solitary explora- tion. Besides, it was so rare for me to enjoy solitude mid silence in such perfect safety as was here promised to me. My freedom in these woods, though I was lone, none could endanger or attempt to restrain ; my right to climb trees, or explore hollows, or stand on my head, or roll about on the leaves or ruins of branch and baik, or laugh or sing, who could oppose ? Being thus absolute monarch and supreme arbiter over myself, I should enjoy for a brief period perfect felicity. That impulse to jump, to bound, to spring upward and cling to branches overhead, which is the cliarac- teiistic of a strong green age, I gave free rein to. Un- fettered for a time from all conventionalisms, and 1875. April. Musira Island. "# 220 TnHOUQH THE DAliK CONTINENT. 1875. Aiiril. Islauij. absolved from that sobriety and steadiness whicli mv position as a leader of half wild men compelled me to assume in their presence, all my natural elasticity of body came back to me. I dived under the obstriictin:: bough or sprang over the prostrate trunk, squeezed into almost impossible places, crawled and writhed like a serpent through the tangled undergrowth, plunged down into formidable depths of dense foliage, and burrowed and struggled with frantic energy anioiin- shadowing pyramids of vines and creepers, whicli liad become woven and plaited by their numbers into a solid mass. ' ' What eccentricities of creation I became acquainted with in this truanting in the wild woods ! Ants, red, black, yellow, grey, white, and particoloured, peopling a miniature world with unknown emmet races. Here were some members of the belligerent warrior caste always threatening the harmless, and seeking whom they might annoy, and there the ferocious food-pro- viders, active for the attack, ranging bole, bougli, twig and leaf for prey ; the meek and industrious artisans absorbed in defending the poor privilege of a sliort existence ; the frugal neuters tugging enormous loads ■i jwards their cunningly constructed nests ; sentries on watch at the doors to defend the approaches to their fastnesses. They swarmed among the foliage in columns of foraging and plundering marauders and countless hordes of ruthless destroyers. In the decay- ing vegetation I heard all around me the xylopliagons larvaj of great beetles hard at work by thousands, and saw myriads of termites destroying with industrioii> fury everything that lay in their path, whether aninwl or vegetable. Armies of psyllie and moths innunieval'le were startled from the bushes, and from every l)()ugli shrilled the tiresome cicada, ever noisy. Here tlie relentless ant-lions prepared their pitfiills, and there tlie ALONE WITH NATURE. 221 ghostly mantis, green or grey, stood waiting for unwary insects. Diamond beetles abounded, and many another species, uncouth and horrid, scrambled away from bifore my feet. Nor are these a thousandth part of the insect nations that I disturbed ; the secluded island was a world of infinite activities. Beyond the flats I came at last to where the ground sloped upward rapidly, though still clothed with tall frees and their parasitical plants and undergrowth ; and in spite of the intense heat, I continued my exploration, determined to view the upper regions. Clambering up the steep side, I had a large choice of supports ; here a tamarind and next a bombax, now a projecting branch of mimosa and now a thick lliane, liung down, invi+ing me to haul myself upward and forward ; the young and plianu teak sapling or slender jasmine bent as I seized them to assist my labouring feet, and at last I emerged above the trees and the tangle of meshed undergrowth, and stood upright on tlie curious spiky grass, studded with wild pine-apple, ground orchids and aloes, which covered the summit. After a general look around the island, I discovered it was in the form of a rudely shaped boot-last, lying east and west, the lowest part being the flats through which I had just struggled. It was about three-quarters of a mile long and about 200 yards wide. The heel was formed by a narrow projecting ledge rising about 50 feet nearly perpendicularly from the water. From this ledge rose the rock 80 feet above it, and 130 feet therefore above the water. ' 1 gazed long on the grand encircling prospect. A halcyon calm brooded on the lake, eastward, northward, and southward, until the clear sky and stainless silver water met, the clear bounds of both veiled V)y a gauzy vapo ' . suggesting infinity. In a bold, mn'Stic mass to the uouth-east rose Alice Island, while a few milea 1875. April. Musira IsluuJ. 222 TUROUQE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April. Musira Island. south-east of it appeared the Bumbireh group. Oppo- site me, to the west, and two miles from where I stood was the long cliffy front of the plateau of Usongora, its slowly rising summit gemmed with patches of ever- green banana, until it became banked in the distance by lines of hazy blue mountains. It is a spot from which, undisturbed, the eye may rove over one of the strangest yet fairest portions of Africa — hundreds of square miles of beautiful lake. scenes — a great length of grey plateau wall, upright and steep, but indented with exquisite inlets, half surrounded by embowering plantains — hundreds of square miles of pastoral upland dotted thickly with villages and groves of banana. From my lofty eyrie I can see herds npon herds of cattle, and many minute specks, white and black, which can be nothing but flocks of sheep and goats. I can ai»o see pale blue columns of ascending smoke from the fires, and upright thin figures moving about. Secure on my lofty throne, I can view their movements, and laugh at the ferocity of the savage hearts which beat in those thin dark figures ; for I am a part of Nature now, and for the present as invulnerable as itself. As little do they know that human eyes survey their forms from the summit of this lake-girt isle as that the eyes of the Supreme in henven are upon them. How long, I wonder, shall the people of these lands remain thus ignorant of IJim who created the gorgeous sunlit world they look upon oacli day from their lofty upland ! How long sliall tlieir untamed ferocity be a barrier to the Grospel, and how long shall they remain unvisited by the Teacher ! What a land they possess ! and wliat an inland sea! How steamers afloat on the lake might cause Uniri to shake hands with Usongora, and Uganda with Usukumn, make tlie wild Wavuma friends with the Wazii.za, and unite the Wakerewe' with the Wagana ! A great A DREAM OF TEE FUTURE. 223 trading port might then spring up on the Shimeeyu, ^\hence the coffee of Usongora, the ivory, sheep, and goats of Ugeyeya, Usoga, Uvuma, and Uganda, the cattle of Uwya, Karagwe, Usagara, Ihangiro, and Usukiima, the myrrh, cassia, and furs and hides of Luanda and Uddu, the rice of Ukerewe, and the grain of Uzinza, might be exchanged for the fabrics brought from the coast ; all the land be redeemed from wikl- iiess, the industry and energy of the natives stimulated, the havoc of the slave-trade stopped, and all the coun- tries round about permeated with the nobler eth.os of a liigher humanity. But at present the hands of the people are lifted — murder in their hearts — one against the other ; ferocity is kindled at sight of the wayfarer ; piracy is the acknowledged profession of the Wavuma ; tlie people of Ugeyeya and "VVasoga go stark naked ; Mtesa impales, burns, and maims his victims ; the Wirigedi lie in wait along their shores for the stranger, and the slingers of the islands practise their art against him ; the Wakara poison anew their deadly arrows at sight of a canoe ; and each tribe, with rage and hate in its heart, remains aloof from the other. " Verily, the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty." . - ■: . ' • Oh for the hour when a band of philanthropic capitalists shall vow to rescue these beautiful lands, and supply the means to enable the Gospel messengers to come and quench the murderous hate with which nia:i beholds man in the beautiful lands around Lake Victoria ! . ■ , , . . ■■ , I descended from the lofty height, the summit of Musira Island, by another way, which disclosed to me the character of the rocky island, and exposed to my view the precipitous walls of shale, rifted and indented by ages of atmospheric influences, that surround the islaud upon all sides but the western. After great diffi- 1875. April. Musira Island. -\ 224 TEROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April. Jlusira Isluud. culty I succeeded in getting upon the top of a portion of an upper ledge that had fallen on the north-east corner and now formed a separate projection about 30 feet high. In a cavernous recess upon the summit of it, I discovered six human bodies in a state of decomposition, half covered with grass and de'bris of rock. One of the skulls showed the mark of a hatchet, which made me suspect that a tragedy had occurred here but a short time before. No doubt the horrible event took place on the island on the ground occupied bj our camp, for there was no other spot where such a deed could liave been wrought, and probably the victims were taken in canoes, and deposited in this hidden recess, that strangers might not be alarmed at the sight of the bodies, or of such evidence of violence as the hatchet- cleft skidl. Probably, also, these strangers were murdered for their cargo of coffee or of butter by the natives of the mainland, or by a later arrival of strangers like my own Waganda, who because of their numerical superiority had begun their molestation and rol >bery of the coffee traders, without other cause than that they were strong and the tradei's weak. About 5 P.M., having long before returned to camp, I saw on the horizon Magassa's fleet of canoes, md counted fourteen. I despatched Safeni and some of the Waganda in a canoe to the small islands we passed just before reaching Makongo, begging Magassa to hasten and join me early next morning, as we were short of provisions, and starvation would ensue if we were delayed in our voyage. Safeni returned about 9 P.M. with a request from Magassa that I would go on as early as I wished, and a promise that he would follow me to camp. I waited, however, for Magassa until 10 a.m., and as Alice Island — which Sentum and Seutaaeya advised me v/as the best place to touch at in order to make a / PROTEST AGAINST FISH STEALING. 225 sliorfc course for Usukuraa — was about thirty miles from Musira, I could delay no longer. It was then airreed that Sentum should stay at Musira Island until Magassa arrived, and inform him of the direction which Seiitageya and I had taken, "We had proceeded on our voyage but three miles when Sentageya turned back with all speed towards Musira, waving his hand to me to continue my journey. Imagining that he had merely forgotten something, I did as he directed. We reached Alice Island about 9 p.m., for we had been delayed by a strong head wind since 4 p.m. As it was pitch-dark, we were guided to a camping-place by a flickering light which we saw on the shore. The light for which we steered was that of a fire kindled by two men and a boy, who were drying fish in a cavern the entrance of which opened on the lake. Though the fishermen were rather frightened at first, they were discreet enough to remain passive ; and to calm their fears, I assumed an air of extreme blandness and amiability. It being late, I prepared to rest in the stern-slieets of my boat, but as I was about to lie down, I heard the natives expostulating. I knew by this that the boat's crew must be committing depredations on tlieir fish stores ; so I sprang out — and only just in time to save them a serious loss. Murabo had already made himself master of half a dozen large fish, when I came up with naked feet behind him, announcing my arrival by a staggering blow, which convinced the fishermen better than any amount of blandness and affectation of amiability could have done that I was sincere, and convinced the Wangwana also that injustice would not be permitted. The fishermen received a handful of beads as an atonement for the attempted spoliation, and to secure the Wangwana against further temptation, I gave them double rations. 1875. April 20. Alice Isluad. * 226 THROUOH TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. The next morning', when I awoke, I found tliat we •April 27. ^ygj,Q camped under the shadow of a basaltic cliff, about hiand. 50 feet high, at the base of which was the fishermen's cavern, extending about 15 feet within. The island was lofty, about 400 feet above the lake at its hif^lust part, nearly four miles in length, and a mile and a half across at its greatest iTendth. The inliabitants co'^sisted of about fc './ nilies from Ukerewe, and owned King Lukongei. .'<' t^ :r liege lord. The summit of Alice i; i^ad i. clothed with aii abun- dance of coarse grass, and the ravines and hollow?, nie choked with a luxuriance of vegetable life — trees, plants, ferns, ground orchids, and wild pine-apple: along the water's edge there waves a thin strip of water- cane. The people became fast friends with us, but their keen trading instincts impelled them to demand sucli exorbitant prices for every article that we were iinalde to purchase more than a few ears of corn. I obtained a view from the summit with ray field-glass, but I could distinguish nothing east or south-east. South- west we saw the Burabireh group, and to purchase food we were compelled to proceed thither — disagreeably convinced that we had lost a whole day by calling at Alice Island, whereas, had we kept a direct course to the south, we might have reached the Bumbireh group in a few hours. As we started only at noon from Alice Island, being delayed by expectations of seeing Magassa, and also by the necessity for purchasing something even at high prices to prevent starvation, we did not reach Barher^; Island — the easternmost of the Bumbireh group — until night, which we passed most miserably in a little cove surrounded by impenetrable brushwood. It was one downpour of rain throughout the whole ujglit, which compelled us to sit up shivering and supperless, for to crown our discomforts, we had absolutely nothing to eat. APPBOACEING BUMBIBEH. 227 ^^ more abject objects can be imagined than the human 1875. beings that occupied the boat through the hours of dark- ■^p"^^^- nei;s. There were my crew all sitting as closely as possible, back to back or side by side, on the oars and ioiirds which they had arranged like a platform on the tliwarts, and I sitting alone under the awning in the stem sheets, wearily trying to outline their figures, or vaguely taking mental notes of the irregularities of tlie bush, with occasional hasty glances at the gloomy tky, or at Bumbireh, whose black mass looked grim mid lofty in the dark, and all the time the rain kept poiiring down with a steady malignant impetuosity. I doubt if even the happiest hours which may fall Jo ray lot in the future will ever obliterate from my memory that dismal night of discomfort and hunger. But as it generally happens, the dismal night was fullowed by a beautiful bright morning. Every inch of nature that we could scan seemed revivified, re- freshed, and gay, except the little world which the boat coiitained. We were eager to renew our acquaintance witli humanity, for only by contact with others could we live. We accordingly sailed for Bumbireh, which lay about two miles from Barker's Island, and ran down the coast in search of a cove and haven for our I'Oiit, while we should be bartering our beads for edibles. Bumbireh Island is about eleven miles in extreme leiigtli by two miles greatest breadth. It is in appear- ance a hilly range, with a tolerably even and softly rolling summit line clothed with short grass. Its slopes are generally steep, yet grassy or cultivated. It ciiitains probal)ly fifty small villages, averaging about twenty hiits to a village, and if we calculate four souls to each hut, v'e have a population of about 4000, iiiehuliug all ages. Herds of cattle grazed on the summit and slopes ; a tolerably large acreage here and there showed a VOL. I. R 228 TEBOUGE TEE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. April 28. Bumbireli. brown soil upturned for planting, while extensive banana groves marked most of the village sites. There was a kindly and prosperous aspect about the island. As soon as we had sailed a little distance alonjr the coast, we caught sight of a few figures which broke the even and smooth outline of the grassy summit, and heard the well-known, melodious war-cries era- ployed by most of the Central African tribes, " Hehu-u hehu-u-u-u ! " loud, long-drawn, and ringing. The figures increased in number, and fresh voices joined in the defiant and alarming note. Still, hungry wretches as we were, environed by difficulties of all kinds, just beginning to feel warm after the cold and wet of the night before, with famine gnawing at our vitals, leagues upon leagues of sea between us and our friends at Usukuma, and nothing eatable in our boat, we were obliged to risk something, reminding our- selves " that there are no circumstances so desperate which Providence may not relieve." At 9 A.M. we discovered a cove near the south-east end of the long island, and pulled slowly into it. Immediately the natives rushed down the slopes, shouting war-cries and uttering fierce ejacul;itioiis. When about 50 yards from the shore, I bade the men cease rowing, but Safeni and Baraka became eloquent, and said, " It is almost always the case, master, with savages. They cry out, and threaten, and look big, hut you will see that all that noise will cease as soon as they hear us speak. Besides, if we leave here without food, where shall we obtain it ? " The last argument was unanswerable, and though I gave no orders to resume their oars, four of the men impelled the boat on slowly, while Safeni and Baraka prepared themselves to explain to the natives, wlio were now close within hearing, as they came rushing oAll he men Biinika s, Avlio •usliing Ijothe water's e Ifbile others prej We were no\ \d Safeni and their mouths, ai liellies were em faces; uttered th Ifellows," most '^ words Mtesa — th of Ihangiro, to \s Baraka's pleasan ligood effect, fo: [were unstrung, a Itlie steady, sloW' ladvanced. Safeni and Ba asked, " What di [engaging Irankne ^bout two hundr^ natives consulted ailing pleasantly lie water until t itood a few secoi rith a rush they : (itliers, seizing ha^ yards over the Ds almost stupefie< Then ensued a Panderaonium — si. foresst of spear rere drawn taut ilreadv on the wi fur heads; two hu mil each other a iiry, or for an c flow or thrust at i WE ABE HAULED ASEOIiE. 229 K)the water's edge. I saw some lift great stones, 1875. fhile others prepared their bows. ^^•'"'. ^^' We were now about 10 yards irom the beach, jnd Safeni and Baraka spoke, earnestly pointing to their mouths, and by gestures explaining that their liellies were empty. They smiled with insinuating faces; uttered the words "brothers," " friends," "good fellows," most volubly ; cunningly interpolated the words Mtesa — the Kahaka — Uganda, and Antari king of Ihangiro, to whom Bumbireh belongs. Safeni and Baraka's pleasant volubility seemed to have produced effect, for the stones were dropped, the bows Iwere unstrung, and the lifted spears lowered to assist Itiie steady, slow-walking pace with which they now ladvanced. Safeni and Baraka turned to me triumphantly and «ked, "What did we say, master?" and then, with lengaging frankness, invited the natives, who were now jbout two hundred in number, to come closer. The btives consulted a little while, and several — now ailing pleasantly themselves — advanced leisurely into khe water until they touched the boat's prow. They itood a few seconds talking sweetly, when suddenly ith a rush they ran the boat ashore, and then all the iDthers, seizing hawser and gunwale, dragged her about yards over the rocky beach high and dry, leaving Its almost stupefied with astonisl naent! Then ensued a scene which beggars description. Pandemonium — all its devils armed — raged around us. foret^t of spears was levelled ; thirty or forty bows rere drawn taut ; as many barbed arrows seemed llready 011 the wing ; thick, knotty clubs waved above pr beads; two hundred screaming black demons jostled Ith eacli other and struggled for room to vent their iiry, or for an opportunity to dv^liver one crushing (low or tlirust at us. R 2 W 230 TUROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April 28. Uumbii'ch. In the meantime, as soon as the first symptom? of this manifestation of violence had been observed, I had sprung to my feet, each hand armed with a loackd self-cocking revolver, to kill and be killed. But the apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upoD such a large crowd restrained me, and Safeni turned! to me, though almost cowed to dumbness by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be patient. I complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew; but, while bitterly blaming myself for my im- prudence in having yielded — against my instincts— to placing myself in the power ^f such savages, I vowedl that, if I escaped this once, my own judgment sliouldj guide my actions for the future. * I assumed a resigned air, though I still retained mvj revolvers. My crew also bore the first outburst of tliel tempest of shrieking rage which assailed them witlJ almost sublime imperturbability. Safeni crossed liisj arms with the meekness of a saint. Baraka liekl liij hands palus outward, asking with serene bonignitv, " Wliat, my friends, ails you ? Do you fear emptyl hands and smiling people like us? We are friend? we came as friends to buy food, two or three baniin;hj a few mouthfuls of grain, or potatoes, or muliogo (cassava), and, if you permit us, we shall depart it; friends." Our demeanour had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to be subsiding, when some fifty iiewj comers rekindled the smoulderiiig fury. Again tlia forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the knotty clubs were whirled aloft, again the bows were drawiij and again the barbed arrows seemed flying. Safdij received a jjush which sent him tumbling, little Kiraiid received a blow on the head with a spear-staff, Saiaiuli gave a cry as a club descended on his back. I sprang up this time to remonstrate, with the tu^ A BEIEF BESPITE FROM DEATH. 231 revolvers in my left hand. I addressed myself to an i875. elder, who seemed to be restraining the people from ^i""'^ -^• proceeding too lar. I showed him beads, cloth, wire, and invoked the names of Mtesa, and Antari their king. The sight of the heaps of beads and cloth I exposed awakened, however, the more deliberate passions of Bfciiisliness and greed in each heart. An attempt at massacre, they began to argue, would certainly entail tlie loss of some of themselves. " Guns might be seized and handled with terrible effect even by dying men, and who knows what those little iron things in the white man's hands are ? " they seemed to be asking tliemselves. The elder, whatever he thought, responded with an affectation of indignation, raised his stick, and to right and left of him drove back the demoniac crowd. Other prominent men now assisted this elder, whom we subsequently discovered to be Sliekka, the king of Bumbireh. Sliekka then, having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half a dozen men and walked away a few yards be- hind the mass. It was the " shauri," dear to a free and independent African's heart, that was about to be lield. Half the crowd followed the king and his council, while the other half remained to indulge their [Violent, vituperative tongues on us, and to continually [menace us with either club or spear. An audacious party came round the stern of the boat and, with super- ively hideous gestures, affronted me ; one of them I even gave a tug at my hair, thinking it was a wig. I revenged myself by seizing his hand, and suddenly bending it back almost dislocated it, causing him to lliowl with pain. His comrades swayed their lances, IWt I smilingly looked at thera, for all idea of self- Ipreservatiou had now almost fled. The ipril 28. Bumbireh. " "^ •Oii't be afraid ; be quite cool. We will try, while iiiev are collecting together, the women's suggestion. Go iVankly and smilingly, Safeni, up to Shekka, on the top of that hill, and offer him these three fundo of Leads, and ask him to exchange blood with you." Safeni proceeded readily on his errand, for tliere was no danger to him bodily while we were there witlim 150 yards, and their full power as yet unj^repared. For ten minutes he conversed witli them, while tli^i drums kept beating, and numbers of men bepainted for war were increasing Shekka's force. Some of them entertained us by demonstrating with their spears how they fought ; others whirled their clubs like tipsy Irish- men at Donnybrook fair. Their gestures were wild, their voices were shrill and fierce, they were kindliii-j: themselves into a figliting fever. Safeni returned. Shekka had refused the pledge of peace. The natives now mustered over 300. Presently fifty bold fellows came rushing down, uttering a shrill cry. AVithout hesitation they came straight to the boat, and, hissing som^'^' "ng to us, seized our Kiganda drum. It was such a smnd affair, we did not resist; still the manner in which it was taken com- pletely undeceived us, if any small hope of peace re- mained. Loud applause greeted the act of gallantry. Then two men came down towards us, and began to drive some cows away that were grazing bt tween lis and the men on the hill. Safeni asked of one of them, "Why do you do that?" '•'' Hocause we are going to begin fighting presently, and if you arc men, you may begin to prepare your- Belves," h'^^ said scornfully, ** Thii)k-^. my bold friend," I muttered to myself. " Those «re the truest wcjrds ve have heard to-day." Tiie iwo n:.. n were retiring up the hill. "Here, Safeni," S.-.M, "take these two fii^e red cloths in your •^*^' f THE MURDERERS BAULKED. 235 ]\\\v^. ; walk slowly up after them a little way, and tlie 1875. miijute you Lear my voice run Lack; and you, my j^^J^^J.^^^j^ l,ovs, this is for life and death, mind ; range yourselves on each side of tlie Loat, lay your Lands on it carelessly, but with a firm grip, and when I give the word, push itwih the force of a hundred men down the liill into tlie water. Are you all ready, and do you think you can do it ? Otherwise we might as well begin fighting \vliere we ai-e." "Yes, InshallaL Master," they cried out with one voice. "Go, Safeni!" I waited until Le Lad walked fifty yards away, id saw that he acted precisely as I Lad instructed iiim. '• Push, m}^ boys ; push foi your lives ! '* The crew bent their heads and strained tlieir arms ; tlic hoat began to move, and there was a hissing, rrinding noise below me. I seized my double-barrelled ' lephant rifle and shouted, " Safeni ! Safeni, retu/n ! '* The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat i^ovino:, and with one accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful cries. My boat was at the water's edge. " Shoot her into the lake, my men ; never mind the water " ; and clear of all obstructions she darted out upon the lake. Safeni stood for an instant on the water's edge, with ibe cloths in his hand. The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty yards from him. He raised Iiis spear and balanced himself. *' Spring into the water, man, head first," T cried. The balanced spear \vas about to fly, and another iian was preparing his wea[»on for a deadly cast, when 1 raised my gun and the bullet ploughed through him nnd through the second. The bow^men halted and iiew tlieir bows. I sent two char^-es of duck-shot into *-K 236 TEROUGR THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. April 28. Biimbireh. their iriidst with terrible effect. The natives retrcatf^d from the beach on which the boat had lately lain. Having checked the natives, I assisted one of mv men into the boat, and ordered him to lend a liand to the others, while I reloaded my big guns, keeping mv eyes on the natives. There was a point about 100 yards in length on the east, which sheltered the cove. Some of the natives made a rush for this, but my guns com- manded the exposed position, and they were obliged to retire. The crew seized their rifles, but I told them to leave them alone, and to tear the bottom-boards out of tln' boat and use them as paddles ; for there were two liip- popotami ad-^^ancing upon us open-mouthed, and ii seemed as if we were to be crushed in the water after such a narrow escape from the ferocious people ashore. I j^^)ermitted one of the hippos to approach within ten yards, and, aiminr^ between his eyes, perforated his skull with a three- ounce ball, and the second received such a wound that we were not molested by him. Meanwhile the savages, baflled and furious at seeing their prey escape, had rushed, after a short consiiHii- tion, to man two canoes that were drawn up on the beach at tlie north-west corner of tlie cove. Twice I dropped men as they endeavoured to launch the boats ; but they persist«}d, and finally, launching them, pursued us vigorously, Twf) other canoes were seen coming down the coasl from the eastern side of the island. Unable to escape, we stopped after we had got out of tlie cove, and waited for them. My elephii^^t rifle was loaded with explosive balls for this occasi;-iU Four shots killed five men and sank two of the canoes. The two others retired to assist their friends out of the water. They attempted nothing further, but some of those on shore had managed to reach the point, and as T,e resumed our paddles, we liearJ a voice cry and saw them she a few yards behin It was 5 P.M. and we were twel lair breeze, a day us to reach our cr journey might occ experience of Ma wliere should we { in almndance, sufl armies of the wori should we turn foi A gentle breeze tlio lug sail, hopi south-east course. We resumed our weak bottom-boar quarters of a mile Throughout the (inotlier. In the visible : all was a About 9 A.M. a f eight miles to the again, but still we found ourselves ab to the southward reach it. But a against which it were fatigued and liours without food We resigned on tliat was falling pest. Up and do\ waves, battered plunged in dark 1 SA VED I 237 liearJ a voice cry out, *' Go and die in the Nyanza ! " and saw them slioot tlieir arrows, which fell harmlessly a few yards behind us. "VYe were saved ! It was 5 P.M. We had only four bananas in the boat, and we were twelve hungry men. If we had a strong fair breeze, a day and a night would suffice to enable lis to reach our camp. But if we had head-winds, the journey might occupy a month. Meanwhile, after the experience of Makongo, Alice Island, and Bumbireh, wliere sliould we a])ply for food ? Fresh water we had in abundance, sufficient to satisfy the thirst of all the armies of the world for a century. But food ? Whither sliould we turn for it ? A gentle breeze came from the island. We raised tlio lug sail, hoping that it would continue fiiir for a foutli-east course. But at 7 p.m. it fell a dead calm. We resumed our extemporized paddles — those thin weak bottom-boards. Our progress was about three- quarters of a mile per hour ! Throughout the night we laboured, cheering one anotlier. In the morning not a speck of land was visible : all was a boundless circle of grey water. About 9 A.M. a squall came fair and drove us about eig'ht miles to the south; about 10.30 it became calm again, but still we paddled unceasingly. At night we found ourselves about seven miles away from an island to the southward of us, and we made noble efforts to reach it. But a gale came up from the south-west, against which it was useless to contend. The crew were fatigued and weakened after paddling forty-nine liours without food. We resigned ourselves to the waves and the rain tliat was falling in sheets, and the driving tem- pest. Up and down we rose and sank on the great waves, battered from side to side, swung round, plunged in dark hollows, and bathed in spray. We Ajiril -9. On the Lake. 1^1 ■i i^ 238 THEOUOE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. baled the boat out, and again sat down. At midniobt April 30. ^jjQ g^j^ moderated and the moon rose, throwing a ibiaud. weird light upon the face of the lake and it^ lono- heaving billows, which still showed high crests whitened . with foam. Up and down we rose and plunged. Tin- moon now shone clear upon the boat and her wretclieil crew, ghastlily lighting up the crouching, wearied, des- pairing forms, from which tliere sometimes rose deeo sighs i'liat wrung my heart. "Cheer up, my lad.s, think nothing of the curse of those of Bumbireh ; 1 a'! men's curses sometimes turn out blessings," I said, to encourage them. One of the thwarts was chopped up, and we made a fire, and witli some of the coffee which I had obtained from. Colonel Linant at Mtesa's we feh somewhat refreshed. And then, completely wearied out, they all slept, but I watched, busy with my thoiiglits. The morning came, the morning of the 30th April, and though ray men had only eaten four bananas between them and tasted, besides, a, vTup of coffee since 10 A.M. of the 27th. +^ "^" nevertheless sixty-eiglit hours afterwards, w^lr .n 1 urged them to resume their paddles that we might reach an island twelve miles south of us, rallied to my appeal with a manliness which won my admiration, resDondinff with heroic will but alas ! with little strength. At 2 P.M. — seventy-six hours after leaving Ahce Island — we ap])roaclied a cove in an uninhabited island, which I have distinguished on the chart by the name of " Refuge." We crawled out of the boat, and each of us thanked God for even this little mercy, and lay down on the glowing sand to rest. But food must be obtained before night. Baraka and Safeni were sent to explore the interior in one direction, Murabo and Marzouk in another. Robert and Hamoidah were set to kindle a fire, and I too:^ my shot gun to shoot birds. "Within half an hour I "^ SQUARE MEAL" AGAIN. 2J9 liad obtained a brace of large fat ducks ; Baraka and 1875. gafeni returned each with two bunches of young green ^*f ^* bananas, and Murabo and his comrade had discovered uiano. some luscious berries, Hke cherries. And what glad souls were we that evening around our camp fire with this gracious abundance to which a benignant Providence had led us, storm- tossed, bruised, raid hungry creatures that we were but a few hours before ! Bananas, ducks, berries, and coffee ! The tobacco gourd and pipe closed one of the most delicious evenings I ever remember to have passed. No wonder tlwt before retiring, feeling ourselves indebted to the Supreme Being who had preserved us through so many troubles, we thanked Him for His mercies and His bounties. We rested another day on Refuge Island to make oars; and further explorations enabled us to procure lialfadozen more bunches of bananas. Our appetites were so keen that there was but little left next morning by tlie time we were ready to start afresh. With oar and sail we set out for Singo Island. Perceiving it was uninhabited, we steered for Ito Island, the slopes of which were rich with plantains, but the natives slung stones at us, and we were therefore obliged to continue on our way to the Kuneneh group, near the peninsula of Ukerewe'. On the afternoon of the 4th May, a stormy head- wind rising, we were compelled to turn into the cove of Wiru, where, through the influence of Saramba the guide, who was at iiome in this countrj', we were hos- pitably received, and meat, potatoes, milk, honey, bananas both ripe and green, eggs and poultry, were freely sold to vis. "VVe cooked these delicacies on board, and ate them with such relish and appetite as only half starved men can appreciate. Hoping to reach our camp next morning, we set sail ■I 'if i ■ :fti£i ■>,2»i<*^ 240 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. May 6. Rwuma. at 9 P.M., steering across S])eke Gulf. But about 3 a.m. when wo were nearly in mid-gulf, the fickle wind failed u«, and then, as if resolved we should taste to the uttermost the extreme of suffering, it met us with a tempest from the N.N.E., as fearful in other respects as that which we experienced at Usuguru, but with tlie fresh torment added of hailstones as large as filberts. The sky was robed in inky blackness, not a star was visible, vivid lightnings flashed accompanied by loud thunder crashes, and furious waves tossed us about as though we were imprisoned in a gourd, the elements thus combining to multiply the terrors of our situation. Again we resigned tho boat to wind and wave, as all our efforts to keep our course were unavailing. We began to think that the curse of the people of Bumbireh, "Go and die in the Nyanza," might be realized after all — though I had much faith in the staunch craft which Messenger of Teddington so conscientiously constructed. A grey, cheerless, morning dawned at last, and we discovered ourselves to be ten miles north of Rwoma, and about twenty miles north-west of Kagehyi. "We put forth our best efforts, hoisted sail, and though the wind was but little in our favour at first, it soon veered round, and sent us sailing merrily over tlie tall waves, and along the coast of Usukuma, straight towards camp. Shouts of welcome greeted us from shore, for the people had recognized us by our sail when miles away, and as we drew nearer the shouts changed to volleys of musketry, and the waving of flags, and the land seemed alive with leaping forms of the glad-hearted men. For we had been fifty-seven days away from our people, and many a false rumour had reached them of our deaths, strengthened each day that our return was deferred and our absence grew longer. But the sight of the BACK IN CAMP. ^41 exploring boat sailing towards Kageliyi dissipated all alarm, concern; and Tear. As tlie keel grounded, fifty men bounded into tbc water, dragged me from the boat, and danced mo rouiul the camp on their shoulders, amid much laughter, and clapping of hands, grotesque wriggling of forms, and real Saxon hurrahing. Frank Pocock was there, his face lit up by fulness of joy, but when I asked him where Frederick Barker was, and why he did not come to welcome me, Frank's lace clouded with the sudden recollection of our loss as lie answered, " Because he died twelve days ago, Sir, and he lies there," pointing gravely to a low mound uf earth by the lake ! 1875. May (5. Kagehyi. -"t^^"' CAinX ERECTED TO Till-: MEMORY OF FREDERICK RAKKER : ilAJITA, AND UBURI MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, ACROSS SPEKE GULF. (From a photograph hy the Author.') ^- . IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 11.25 ISi|M §2S ■50 ^^ UKM lit ly u 114 S? |£° 12.0 U 11.6 'J /; y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ■1>^ <^ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WriSTW.N.Y. MSM (716) •73-4503 cS'^ ^/ evening of the 4t in company with efs, and here I I Scotch plaid, two Itliirty fine cloths U l)rass wire, be ^islies, plates, tir J«Ioths each and pcklaces) of bea rile. For these m answer short! LUKONGEH IN COUNCIL. 219 revolved. The king, a bandsome, open-faced, li^ht- ists. coloured young man of twenty-six or twonty-ciglit ^^^ ^^\ Years old, merely gazed his fill ; and his chiefs ilsiwn, Mosota, Mgeyeya, and Wakoreh, followeil his example, as well as the lesser chiefs, men, boys, and From his questions I perceived that Lukongeh would he quite as much influenced by conversations aliout Europe as Mtesa of Uganda, and I soon saw in liim as eligible a convert to Christianity, though tiie future was too fraught with anxiety for me to attera])t it. No business could be commenced on this dav. We were to eat and rest, and the next, if the \\\\% felt in good health, we might begin the nego- tiations. Oil the second day Lukongeh was fortunately in excel- lent health and spirits, and I felt so also, and with the l^reiitest possible suavity I proposed that he should titlier sell or lend me thirty canoes. All his objec- tions were met and overruled by the exhibition of my presents. But when he saw me thus publicly expose |tlie gorgeous cloths in broad daylight, he trembled, and bade me cover them up quickly, saying that he pvould visit me in my hut at night, and that I might rest assured he would do his best for me. On the evening of the 4th June, he stole into my hut at night, in company with his faithful premier and four principal liefs, and here I presented him with two fine rugs, one ii^cotcii plaid, two red blankets, ornaments of co})per, tliirty fine cloths, fifty fundo of beads, and two coils of brass wire, besides various otlier things, such as plies, plates, tin pots, &c. His chiefs received five Icloths each and five fundo (a finido consists of ten p'cklaces) of beads, and two fathoms each of brass l^ne. For these munificent presents, I should obtain P\v answer shortly ; but in tJie mpiantime I must enjoy 4 t\ 250 thuougu the dark continent. 1875. ^nne 1-6. Ukerewe. myself. " Feed, and get fat," said Lukongeli, ns lie withdrew, liappy witli his wealth. The Wakerewe, following the example of their kino- treated us with consideration. We had to uii(lc3r<'-() ;i narrow inspection, and a keen analysis of ])livsi(iir. noniy, that thoy might compare us with tlic Araii Sungoro ; hut we had long hecome accustomed to this, and therefore hore it with unconcern. There are representatives of many tribes in Ukerewe — such as AVataturu, Wa-hya, Watambara, Wa.suiiibwa, Waruri, Wakwya and Wazinja. The elders, to wjjom are entrusted the traditions u\ the country, furnished me with a list of the followii i- kings : — 1. lluliinda I. 2. Kiisessa. 3. Kytawa. 4. Kahaiia I. 5. Gui-ta 1. 6. Na^u. 7. Mehigol. 8. MohigoII. 9. Kahana II. 10. Gurtall. 11. Euhinda II. 12. Kaliana III. 13. IwanJa. Id. Machunda. 15. Lukongoh, the present king. The founder of Ukerewe', Ruhinda I., is the V\\\^ whose memoiy is most revered. He brouglit Lis people in canoes from Usongora and Ihangiro, which was known in old times by the name of U-wya. He it was who introduced the plantain and banana plants into Ukerewe'. The aborigines, whom he conquered, were called Wa-kwya — another name for the inhabit' ants of Majita Mount. A small ^ remnant of this tribe still live on the south coast of Ukerewe, opposite Kagehyi. The royal sepulchre is at Kitari. The hill on which it is situfited is seen in the photograph of the boat nt the landing-place of Msossi, and an eminent chief ot Ukerewe has the charge of it to protect it inviolate. The kings are all buried in a sitting posture. VIEW OF KITARI I THE ItOTAL SEPULCHRE, 251 Liikonp^eli*R dominions east of Rngedzi Clianncl mre acquired by the forcible dispossession of "Wata- tiini sliepherds, after a fierce battle, whicli lasted five (lavs, during which many of tlie Wakerewe were shiin liv ilie poisoned arrows of the sliepherds. Thoiif^'li tiicv live harmoniously ton^ether now, tliere is ns much (lilleience between the Wakerewe and the Wataturu as m 1 «::.. Jlllll! l-<>. Ukorcwii AT THK LANDING-PLACE OF MS0S8I : VIEW OF KITARI IIIIX TO THE LEFT; MAJITA MOUNTAIN TO THE niGlIT. (^From a photograph ly the Author.) exists between a Nubian and a Syrian Arab. The Watatura are light-coloured, straight, thin-nosed and tliin-lipped, while the "Wakerewe are a mixture of the Kthiopic and negro type. The king is supposed to be endowed wltli super- natural power, and Lukongeh seizes every opportunity i<> lieigliten this belief He is believed to be enabled to treate a drought at pleasure, and to cause the land to i ' ! i' ■ m P :^ -i *) ■^ , 1 i 252 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. be drenched with rain. It is fortunate that, since liis June 1-6, j^QggggJQj^ iq power, rain has been regular and copious in its season. The king has not been slow to point out this immense advantage which Ukerewe has gaiued since he succeeded his father ; he is therefore belovel and feared. Aware of the value of a reputation as niin- maker, he was ambitious to add to it that of '• greaf medicine man," and he besought me earnestly to impart to him some of the grand secrets of Europe- such as how to transform men into lions and leopards. to cause the rains to fall or cease, the winds tu blow, to give fruitfulness to women and virility to men. Demands of this character are commonly madf by African chiefs. When I stated my inability to comply with his requests, he whispered to his chiefs : — ** He will not give rae what I ask, because he is afraid that he will not get the canoes ; but you will see when my men return from Uganda, he will give me all I ask." The custom of greeting the king is a most curious one, differing from any I have observed elsewhere. His people, after advancing close to him, clap their hands and kneel to him. If the king is pleased, lie reveals his pleasure by blowing and spitting into their hands, with which they affect to anoint their ftxces and eyes. They seem to believe that the king's ^.z^awa is a collyrium for the eyes. To each other the Wakerewe kneel, clap hands, and cry, " Wache ! wache ! " " Wache sug ! " " Mohoro ! " "Eg sura?" which, translated, signifies, "Morning! morning ! " " Good morning ! " " A good day ! " " Are you well ? " The stories current in this country about the witcli- oraft practised by the people of Ukara Island prove AN EDUCATED CROCODILE. 253 that those islanders have been at pains to spread abroad a good repute for themselves, that they are cunning, and, aware that superstition is a weakness of human nature, have sought to thrive upon it. Their power — according to the Wakerewe — over the amphibige is ^vonderful. One Khamis, son of Hamadi, the carpenter of Sungoro, having been a long time constructing a dhow, or sailing vessel, for his employer, shared most thoroughly in these delusions. Kliamis averred, with an oath, that there was a crocodile which lived in the house of the chief of Ukara, which fed from his hands, and was as docile and olieilieiit to his master as a dog, and as intelligent as a man. Lukongeh had once a pretty woman in his harem, who was coveted by the tlkara chief, but the latter could devise no means to possess her for a long time until he thought of his crocodile. He instantly communicated his desire to the reptile, and bade him lie in wait in the rushes near Msossi until the woman should approach the lake to bathe, as was ji^r custom daily, and then seize and convey her without injury across the eight-mile channel to Ukara. The next day, at noon, the woman was in the Ukara chief's house. When I expressed a doubt about the veracity of the marvellous tale, Khamis said, indignantly : — " What, you doubt me ? Ask Lukongeh, and he will confirm Avliat I iiave told you." He then added : — " Machunda, Lukongeh's father, owned a crocodile that stole an Arab's wife, and carried lier across the country to the king's house ! " To Kliamis, and the Wangwana who listened to him, this last was conclusive evidence that the crocodiles of Ukara were most astonishing creatures. file Wakerewe also believe that, if a hawk seizes a fish belonging to the Wakara, it is sure to die in the very act! 18/5. June 1-6 Ukerew^. 254 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. Jane 1-6. Uk«r«wdL I! ! Kaduma of Kagehyi, according to Khamis, possessed a hippopotamus which came to him each morning, for a long period, to be milked ! It requires twelve goats and three hoes to purchase a wife in Ukerew^ from her parents. Sungoro, the Arab, was obliged to pay Lukongeh 350 lbs. of assorted beads and 300 yards of good cloth before he succeeded in obta'ning one of his young sisters in marriage. If the lover is so poor that he has neither goats nor hoes, he supplies such articles as spears, or bows and arrows, but he cannot obtain a wife until he furnishes a suffi- cient dowry to please her parents. If the parents or older relatives are grasping, and impose hard con- ditions, the state of the lover is hard indeed, as fre- quently after marriage demands are made for cattle, sheep, goats, &c., a refusal of which renders the marriage void until children have been born, when all connect] uu with her blood relatives ceases. Thieves, adulterers, and murderers are put to deatli by decapitation. They may escape death, however, by becoming th.. slaves of the party they have wronged. Coils of brass wire are much coveted by the Wakerewe, for the adornment of their wives, who wear it in such numerous circlets round their necks as to give them at a distance an appearance of wearing ruffs. Wristlets of copper and brass and iron, and anklets of the same metal, besides armlets of ivory, are the favourite decorations of the males. Families in mourning are distinguished by bands of plantain leaf round their heads, and by a sable pig- ment of a mixture of pulverized charcoal and butter. The matrons who have fallen into the sere of life are peculiar for their unnatural length of breasts, which, depending like pouches down to the navel, are bound to their bodies by cords. The dress of men and women o Is to I >s; <« So 5 o '^ if n ^- <^ i", a « fl 2i ' "^^ (14 <0 t- 00 m-\i^ p ^ ^ es . at .J) < J ^ ;r^ a> b M <2 3 J«! 5 -" be % . «r 2 III I fi ei M ■» >o I 256 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. June 6. Ukerew^. w • consists 01 half dressed ox-hides, goat-skins, or a cincture of banana leaves, or kirtles of a coarsely made grass-cloth. On the 6th June, Lukongeh, having issued instruc- tions to his chiefs how to assist me, called on me at night, accompanied by his premier, to impart his decision and plans. Said he : — " My people are very timid in strann-e lands. They are no travellers like the "Wangwana. I am obliged therefore to act in the dark with them, otlierwii^e I could not help you. I am going to give you twentv- three canoes and their paddles. They are not wortli much, and if they give you trouble, you must not blaiiiu me. I am telling my people you are coming back to Ukerewe. Don't deny it, and don't talk about it, or they will be sure to run away back here. If you are clever, they will follow you to Usukuma. Once there, take the canoes and paddles, because I give them to you ; and here are my young nephew ami cousin, who will follow you to Uganda, and make friends with the Wazinja, as far as Ihangiro, for you. When you reach Uganda, I wish you to make Mtesa and myself brothers, and we will exchange gifts. You must also remember to send my young men back from Uganda. Good-bye. I have said all." I was also enjoined to send to Lukongeh by lils young nephew and cousin two suits of crimson and blue flannels, medicine for rheumatism and headaclic, one revolver and ammunition, one bale of clotli, Leads of various kinds to the amount of 50 lbs., two fezes, one English rug, one Kiganda canoe capable of carry- ing forty men, two tusks of ivory, Usoga goat-skins, otter furs, and iron and brass wire — all of which of course I promised most faithfully to send. Lukongeh and his chiefs were out early on tlie mornino: of the Tth June to bid me farewell. But nj Vi 'i- m '■w" ■ there were c this, Lukong and remerabi Liikongeh is " Woiiderft truth ill this c However, we ^Ve puntec Channel, and his nephew a were with us. From the h: f!Ta[)h of the c Rugetlzi Chai across the ba^ where we halt lltb June, 01 of Ukerew^, nearly midwaj Kagehyi. The next da instructions tc canoes to a ^ with the aid relatives indu( number, to stoj The "Waker of their king, left them to re occupy four di heads would I • This island hai Lieutenant Shergol Society, together w lately lost their liv -among whom wt tie king's permissic LUEONQEirS STBATAOEM, 257 4 there were only five small canoes ready! "How is this, Lukongeh ? " I asked. " Never mind, go on ; and remember what I have said to you, my brother. Lukongeh is true," he replied, with dignity. " Wonderful man," I thought, " to have a respect for truth ill this country. He is assuredly one of the first. However, we shall see." • : - . . AVe punted our boat through the narrow Rugedzi Channel, and rowed to Kisorya. Lukongeh's premier, his nephew and cousin, who were to be our guides, were with us. ./ • . • From the hills of Kisorya I obtained a capital photo- o-raph of the deep bay which leads from Speke Gulf to Rugetlzi Channel, and of the mountains of Urirwi, across the bay. From Kisorya we moved to Ugoma, where we halted, a sore trial to our patience, until the lltb June, on which day, with twenty-seven canoes of Ukerew^, we rowed to Wezi Island,* situate nearly midway in Speke Gulf between Ukerewe and Kagehyi. i ' The next day, upon landing at Kagehyi, I wliispered instructions to Frank and Manwa Sera to haul up the canoes to a distance of eighty yards on land, and with the aid of Lukongeh's premier and the king's relatives induced the Wakerewe canoe-men, 216 in number, to store their paddles in my hut. The Wakerewe were then apprised of the strategy of their king, and told that there were four canoes left them to return to Ukerewe, and tliat, as it would occupy four days to transport their entire party back, beads would be given for ten days' provisions. At • This island has since had attached to it a sad interest. At Wezi, Lieutenant Shergold Smith, and Mr. O'Neil, of the Church Missionary Society, together with Sungoro the Arab, and many of their followers, lately lost their lives while endeavouring to remove the Arab's Avomen -among whom was Lukongeh's young sister— from Ukerewe. without the king's permission or consent. 1875. Jiiiitf 7- Ukerewe. n.m • h ■ I 258 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. June 12. Kagehyi. this the Wakerewe were naturally very much surprised and the uproar became tremendous. They seized the premier, but he audaciously shuffled the fault upon the young relatives, so releasing him they bound Lukono-eh's relatives, and would undoubtedly have murdered tliem then and there but for the precautions I liad tnken. A nod to Frank and Manwa Sera, and fifty Waiijc^wana had dashed up to the rescue and, charging on the ex- cited mob with the muzzles of their guns, drove tbum clear out of the village of Kagehyi. When the Wakerewe were outside, we held a palaver with them, at which it was explained that we should wait six days at Kagehyi, during which time they could communicate with Lukongeh, and if the king repented of his promise, the canoes would be sent back, or that, if they pleased, they could return and, by manning the canoes for us, would be sure of earning each man his reward, but that the relatives of Lukongeli, being in my camp and in my service, must not be molested, as I was bound to protect them. This firm decision being fully explained to them, forty-five took the four canoes given and returned to Ukerewe, to communicate with Lukongeh. tSix additional canoes, despatched by their friends the next day, assisted in the transport of the natives of Ukerewe back to their country ; and on the third day our camp was emptied of almost all of them, but though we waited seven days at Kagehyi, no further communication came from Lukongeh, and therefore the premier and his five servants departed. Meanwhile, I had despatched messengers to all the districts around to summon the people to a grain market, whereat all grain brought to Kagehyi would be purchased, at the rate of eight measures (simihir to pecks) for one doti or four yards of blue, white, or coloured cloth. By the 19th June, 12,000 lbs. of grain, :V^ WE LEAVE KAGEHYL 259 sesamiim, millet, and Indian corn, and 500 lbs. of rice, bad been purcbased and stowed in cloth sacks, each containing about 100 lbs. As the canoes were so rotten, the crews of each were detailed under the supervision of Lukanjab, the nephew, and Mikondo, the cousin of Lukongeh, to repair them. This was done by re-sewing many of the planks with caiie-fibre and caulking them with the bruised stalk of the banana. At early dawn we began the embarkation of 150 men, women, and children, with 100 loads of cloth, beads, and wire, 88 sacks of grain, and 30 cases of ammunition ; and as I could not delegate to others the care of the flotilla without feeling uncontrollable anxiety about it, the Ladi/ Alices loaded with most of the ammunition, led the way at 9 a.m. to Mabibi, These islets are three miles westward of Wezi, six miles from Ukerewe, and about nine miles from To my great satisfaction I perceived that the Wa- ngwana would soon acquire the art of paddling, though many were exceedingly timid on the water. Until they gained confidence in their new duties, our plan was to avail ourselves of the calm periods, and not to risk so many lives and so much property in a tempestuous sea. A strong breeze from the north-west lasted all the morning, but at noon it moderated, and two hours afterwards, taking advantage of the calm, we pushed off from Mabibi, and, rounding the south-west corner of the Ukerewe peninsula, pulled for the Kunneneh islets, which we reached without loss or accident. Again the north-west breeze blew strong, and, as it had power over a greater expanse of water, the waves did not subside until li p.m. It was tough labour rowing against the heavy swell, and the dis- VOL. I. T 1875. June 2' July 27. (;Qjifi(]eiice so affected me that, after inducing the kin J of Iroba to go through the process of blood-brotljerhood with one of the Wangwana, he was released. At 5 P.M., faithful to his promise that he would per- form what I wished, the king of Iroba bronglit the treacherous king of Bumbireh with two of his chiefs, whose appearance, after he had landed at Mahyiga and been recognized, was hailed with a loud shout by the Wangwana. He was about o be maltreated, and had I not been present at the time, there is no douh; that he would have been murdered by the enraged boat's crew. But they calmed down when they were told that his life and services were necessary to us, and that good treatment might secure his friendship and peace with Bumbireh. My purpose in possessing myself of the person of tlie king of Bumbireh and his two chiefs may easily be divined. It must have been perceived that weakness and irresolution — or, in other words, over-gentleness and want of firmness — had proved harmful on several previous occasions. Thus, the hesi^'i+ion to act im- mediately after the commission of murder by the Wanyaturu led them to imagine that it was fear which withheld us ; the forbearance exhibited at Ngevi Island only brought upon us more annoyance; our mildness at Mombiti in Uvuma suggested the attack upon us by stoning ; our long-suffering temper at the straits between Uvuma and Ugeyeya induced the Wavuma to proceed to piracy and violence ; our patient bearing at Bumbireh led the natives to think that we might be murdered like lambs ; our placability merited and received the contempt of the natives of Iroba ; and a hundred times afterwards did I see that the savage only respects force, power, boldness, and decision ; and that he is totally ignorant of the principles which govern is to liira cowart m THE KING OF BUMBIREH A nOSTAQE. 277 the conduct of Cliristian man to man. Forbearance is to liira cowardice; mildness, patience, and an equable iimper are, in his undeveloped and unreasoning mind, only evidences of effeminacy. But the mnrderous Wanyaturu, when we finally turned out of our camp, learned, when it was too late, that our womanly jreiitle- ness covered power ; the audsicious VVakamba at N<;evi Islaud were only brought to their senses when they lieard the startling reports of the revolver ; the inten- tion of the daring Wavuma to murder was only checked l)V quick and energetic action ; the treacherous rock- sliiigers of Monibiti only desisted when fired upon ; the ftrocious Wa-Bumbireh only respected us after our Biiccessful escape; the cunning king of Iroba only k'came really friendly when we quietly showed our power, and his rapidly growing insolence was only cowed by the exhibition of sternness. But the exercise of power without magnanimity is simply brutality, and has only a transient effect. If, therefore, I could only show the king of Bumbireh and his people that the first white man they had seen was extremely gentle in his manner until aroused, but, though strong and powerful when angered, was mag- nanimous afterwards, I should, I felt, leave a lasting good effect upon their minds. Though Shekka's capture was necessary, in order to ensure the passage of the Expedition between Bumbireh and Ihangiro in peace and safety, his good treatment and after-release were none the less necessary also — provided that nothing serious occurred in the meantime to prevent the ex- hibition of clemency towards him.* Perceiving himself to be in the power of those whom * On page 32, vol. i., * Last Journals,' Livingstone says : — " It may have tieen for the best that the English are thus known as people who can hit brd when unjustly attacked, as we on this occasion most certainly were." Other instances could be cited from liis books to prove Dr. Livingstone's Tiews ou such occasions. n 2 tR75. July 27. Mahyig*. ' 3' 278 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. . July 27. he had outraged with a wanton ferocity, and whom he . had compelled to risk the terrors of the stormy sea without the means of subsistence, or means to seek shelter from the gales and tempests which prevail durino- the rainy season, Shekka's behaviour became as abject as it had been ferocious when our positions were re- versed. But he was informed in mild tones that we sought not his life, but our own safety; that he was captured to secure ourselves from violence by the pos- session of his person; that, while he was a prisoner with us, there would be no fear that Antari of Ihangiro and the people of Bumbireh would attack us by night, as they must know that we possessed the means of retaliation through him. He was pleased to be communicative on this assu- rance, and informed us that Antari was collecting a vast force on Bumbireh, by day and night, for the / . purpose of attacking us on the island of Maliyiga. He imparted to us also the narrative of how Antari's father, in conjunction with Kytawa in the days of old, had successfully defied for a long period the full power of the great Suna of Uganda, and he was curious to know how a small body of men like ourselves could hope to escape from Antari * — or " the Lion " — of Ihangiro. Shekka was advised that, ap we knew how to de- fend ourselves when attacked, he had better send word to Bumbireh and to Antari that we did not seek trouble, but were desirous of establishing peaceful relations between the Wangwana and the natives. Three of the ordinary natives of Bumbireh who had been brought with Shekka and his two chiefs were therefore per- mitted to depart with the king of Iroba and his friends. At 9 A.M. t^e king of Iroba appeared again, this • Antari, or " the lion/' is a favourite name with the Wahuma tribes. ** TEE LION'' THREATENS US. 279 time with gifts of milk, honey, bananas, and a fat kid, 1875. which kindness we liberally reciprocated, not without ^"'^ ^^' much politic ostentation for the advantage of Shekka and the natives. At noon he reappeared with three large canoes, con- taining twenty men each, from Ihangiro, under the command of Antari's chief elder. They were permitted to land, tliough they were numerically superior to the garrison on the island. But before I had given them permission to that effect, Frank was requested to hold thirty men under arms to prevent treachery and surprise. Our greeting was friendly, though there was a cer- tain proud reserve in their manner. "Wliat says the king Antari?" I asked through Lukanjah. "Antari asks, *Why have you come to his waters aiid camped on his island ? * " "We have come because we must pass through to Uganda, and have rested on Mahyiga to wait for our people. As I have not sufficient canoes to carry my people and property in one passage, I must leave some here, while I proceed to Uganda with the first half of ihe party. I wish to be assured by Antari that in my passage by Burabireh we shall not be attacked, nor the party which must be left in my absence on this island be molested. What say yoii ?" " Antari says he is a great and strong king. All the mainland which you see from Rumondo to Kytawa's is his, so are all these islands and waters. He lias never seen strangers before travelling by sea : they ahvays went by laud. He says, * You must go back.' " "We cannot go back, tell him," I replied. "This ^ater belongs to every stranger, as much as tlie wind. The ishuid may be his, bnt no one dwells on Mahyiga, and wo will not injure the rocks.'* 280 TEROUaH TEE BARK CONTINENT. 1875. July 28. Mahyiga. hi " Antari says he will make peace only if you go back. He sends these three bunches of banauas to you, and this woman and child." " We do not deal in slaves, and three bunches of bananas are of no use to us. We want permission to pass quietly and peacefully through to Uganda, and if Antari will send many bananas to us, we will buy them, as we have many mouths with us." *' Then Antari says he will make war on you, and kill you all." ** Ah, does he say those words ? '* "Yes, Antari says those words." I whispered to Frank to bring Shekka, who was immediately brought to their presence. When they saw him, they all rose to a man with threatening actions. We all rose also, in a prepared attitude, which convinced them that violence was useless. I said to the elders : — " Sit down, and carry my words to Antari. Open your ears wide, and understand. Antari is Mtesa's slave; I am Mtesa's friend. Antari's people rob and try to murder Mtesa's friend, but he escapes, and lins now come back on his way to Mtesa. Again, Antari and his people are busy preparing war against Mtesa's— Antari's master's — friend. He sends many canoes and hundreds of men to Bumbireh. He also sends tliree canoes to tell me that he is about to fight me, and perhaps — you know best — to rescue Shekka, who is my means for securing my safety. Tell Antari that the white man is not a woman, and that lying words will not be swallowed by him. He means to go to Up:;inda, whether Antari will let him or not. If Antari fip;hts, tell him to remember how tlie white man escaped from Bumbireh. The white man wants peace, but he is not afraid of Antaii. Now go, and carry every word to Antari, and to-m(;rruw, by noon, I must have his WELCOME FRIENDS. 281 answer, or I sliall carry Shekka and his two chiefs to Ucanda, and deliver them up to Mtesa." Without giving them time to consider further, we iiroiit tlie price we should have to pay. The Wagarida lift their spears, and, taking only their mundu — hill- liooks — ])roceeded to cut the fruit while I remained in the canoe. Suddenly I heard a shout and a rustling ill the banana grove, and the Waganda came run- ning back and pushing the canoes into the water, plunged in, and got on board. Kytawa's chief had his left arm chopped clean off, and then they cut him on tlie head, which killed him. Eight of the Waganda* liave been badly hurt. They will be carried on shore presently, and you shall see them. Bumhireh ! ah, ah! Bumhireh is bad!" he said emphatically. The wounded men were brought on shore with ghastly wounds from spears, and one or two from arrows, at the sight of which a grand rush was made upon the captives by two or three hundred excited Waganda and Wazongora, but with the aid of the Wangwana and Frank we saved them. "Gently, gently, friends," we cried; "these men are not they who are guilty of this deed. Do not ill-use them; tliey are innocent." M'kwanga, the chief of the search expedition of Waganda, was furious. He seized his shield and three Bpears, and called his men together, telling them to I arm, as he would lead them through and through Biimbireh, and then would proceed to Antari and l^^lavhim in his house, would cut down every banana, Ij'irii down every hut, and scorch Ihangiro to a I cinder, &c. • Six of these died subsequently to our arrival in Uganda, from the «3fects of these wounds. 286 THROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. I . 1875. But M'kwanga was persuaded to be patient, and Augusts. jjQ^ foolishly throw more lives away. We should. I told him, consult together, and if I found, after con- sideration, that my duty was to avenge this deed, I should do it. Said he : " If you do not assist me to punish this treachery, you need never expect to see Mtesa's face or Uganda again. The Waganda came to do yon service ; they came to seek you while Mtesa believed you were lost. The Waganda with myself and Sabadii promised to stand by you when we heard you were in danger. The Waganda left your camp with your consent to go and get food for you as well as for iis. Kytawa's chief is dead, and here are eight wounded men. What will you do?" " Only what I think is right, and after proper con- sideration. If I do not assist you, it will not prevent you from going to fight them to-morrow." " But," said M'kwanga, " if I go to fight to-rnor''ow by myself, I shall never return to Mahyiga." He stalked away sullenly, and the Waganda became cold and distant towards us, as though we were to blame for the sad event. The Wazongora bewailed their chief aloud, and the strangely mournful tones of their lamentations produced a powerful impression on all who heard them. Before many minutes had elapsed, I had manned my boat and five canoes, and was on my way to Iroba before the intelligence could be spread, simply with the view to ascertain how far the king of Irolta was involved in this affair. I found him to be perfectly innocent of all knowledge of anything that had oc- curred at Bumbireh since morning. Upon asking liim if any natives of Ihangiro were there, he answered that one of Antari's youngest sons was there. ^'^ proceeded to the hut, and the young man was secured A COUNCIL OF WAR. 287 >mor''ow and conveyed into tlze boat, and the king of Iroba was 1875. instructed to convey the intelligence to Bumbireh to ■J"f**^ '* the chiefs of Antari's people, and to tell them that, if they intended to make peace, they must be quick, and send me word of it before noon of the next day, as I should not be able to restrain the Waganda, or defer mv departure another day. The arrival of messengers from the post of observa- tion on the summit of the island, announcing that the canoes of the Expedition were seen coming from the south, distracted the attention of all for a period, and soon the summit was lined with the figures of the anxious Wangwana, some of whom had wives and children, besides relatives and friends, in the little fleet that was bearing towards the island with miniature sails set. By sunset they were answering their safe arrival close to us with cheer after cheer, and soon had landed amid hearty greetings. But Manwa Sera, to cap the day's dismal and tragic record, had to report the loss of two men, who were drowned by the collapse of one of the rotten canoes, which added another cause for grief. The riding asses also were in a pitiable condition, for the poor things being obliged to be bound in the small canoes were terrihly chafed even to the quick, and could scarcely stand. The rest of the force were in good condition, and no property had been lost or other accident occurred. That evenings while the sorrowing "Wazongora made the camp doleful with their loud mournful cries for the dead chief, Frank and all the Wangwana chiefs were summoned to my tent to discuss our future. I only wished to hear their views, to discover their senti- ments, not to disclose my own. The unanimous opinion ' ui ihe party was that we were bound to fight. All I v% asr. 288 THROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT, ^( 1875. conld say on the other side availed nothing to e]ial{e "t,"T'v^ the decision they had arrived at. Then tliey were " ' dismissed with a promise that I should impart niv resolution in the morning. I also enjoined on Frank to double the guard over the captives, lest they mvAit be injured during the night. Alone with myself, I began to discuss seriously the strict line of duty. If it were a military P]xpe(]itioii that I commanded, duty would have pointed out tlie obvious course to follow; but though the Expedition was governed for its own well-being after military principles, it was an expedition organized solely for the purposes of exploration, with a view to searcli out new avenues of commerce to the mutual advantage fit civilization and such strange lands as we found suitable for commercial and missionary enterprise. But wjiat- ever its character, its members possessed the piiyilegeof self-defence, and might justly adopt any measures, after due deliberation, for self-protection. The principles of right and justice every educated Christian professes to understand, and may be credited with a desire to observe, but in addition to these, it was desirable in a person in my position — knowing how frequently it is necessary to exercise them in barbarous lands — to re- member charity and forbearance, in order to ensure tlie objects in view, and to create good impressions for the benefit of those who might succeed the pioneer. Thirteen days had elapsed since our arrival at lyiahyiga, and the thirteenth day was signalized by this bloody attack upon people entrapped to their death maliciously, and evidently by a preconcerted arrangement between Antari's elders and tlie cliiefs at Bumbireh. Sabadu said also that the last words he had heard as the Waganda paddled away from Bumbireh were, " Look out for mischief to-morrow," which no doubt meant that the war "shauri" was / RESOLVE ON PUNISHMENT. 2SD 1875, August 3. nearly terminated, and that all were by this time worked up into proper figliting spirit. The Expedition was now ready to move towards ** ^'^* roaiida, but the waterway had first to be opened ; whatever plot was on hand must be frustrated, and treacliery punished; otherwise impunity would inspire aaainlacity which might be dangerous to our safety. Apart, therefore, from a duty owing to the wounded Wiigaiida and the dead chief of Kytawa, as well as to our respect for and gratitude to Mtesa and Kytawa — apart from the justice which, according to all laws liiimaii and divine, savage and civilized, demands that Wood sliall atone for blood, especially when committed with malice prepense, and the memory of our narrow escape from their almost fatal wiles, and the days of agony we had suffered — there lay the vital, absolute, and imperative necessity of meeting the savages lest they should meet us. For they were by this time reinforced by about 2000 auxiliaries from the main- land; they were flushed with triumph at their success in the snare they had set for the unsuspecting Waganda, and the sight of their dead victim would only inspire tliem with a desire for more blood. As I could not see any way to avoid the conflict, I . resolved to meet them on their own island, and by one decisive stroke break this overweening savage spirit, I should, however, wait the result of my last message, for it might be that the capture of one of Antari's [ sons might induce them to embrace peaceful proposals. Accordingly next morning a couple of ammunition Ibexes were opened, and twenty rounds distributed to each man who bore a rifle or musket; 230 spearmen and fifty musketeers were detailed for a fighting party, and eighteen canoes were prepared to convey them to |Bumhireh. 1 waited until noon, having gazed through a field- ^il . 290 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. August 4. Mahyiga. glass many times in the direction of Bumbireh, but nothing was observed approaching Mahyiga. The force was therefore mustered, and I addressed it to this effect : — '*My friends and Wangwana,^We must have the sea clear. Whatever mischief tliese people have midi. tated must be found out by us, and must be prevented. I am about to go and punish them for the treaclierous murder of our friends. I shall not destroy tliein, therefore none of you are to land unless we find tlieir canoes, which we must break up. We must fight till they or we give in, for it can only be decided in this manner. While in the fight, you will do exactly as I tell you, for I shall be able to judge whether their fierce spirit is broken, or whether we will have to fight on land." As the distance between Bumbireh and Mahyiga was about eight miles, we did not arrive until 2 p.m. before the former island. It was evident that the savages had expected us, for the heights of the hilly ridge were crowded with large masses, and every point was manned with watchmen. Through my field-glass I observed messengers running fast to a thick plantain grove which crowned the southernmost hill, and commanded a view of all approach to a cove that penetrated to its base. It wai. clear that the main force of the natives was ready in the shadows of the grove. Calling the canoes together, I told the chiefs to follow my boat, and to steer exactly as I did. We made a feint of entering into this cove, but when near the point, perceiving that we were hidden by the lofty hill from the observatioD of those in the grove and of the look-outs, we swerved to the left, and, clinging to the land, pulled dgorously until we came to a cape, after rounding which we cam? in view of a fine and noble bay to our right. THE WORK OF PUNISHMENT. 291 By this manoeuvre the enemy was revealed in all ists. Lis fitrencrth. The savaeres were mossed behind the ^"8°'* *• plantains as 1 had suspected, and irom their great numbers proved much too strong to be attacked under cover. All the eastern and northern sides of the bay were surrounded by lofty hills, which sloped steeply to witliin a few feet of the water's edge, and were covered with small shingly rocks, and thin short Ijrass. The low shelf of land that lay between the liill base and the w^ater was margined with tall cane- grass. We steered straight east towards the more exposed liili slopes. The savages, imagining we were about to effect a landing there, hurried from their coverts, between 2000 and 3000 in number. I examined the shores carefully, to see if I could discover the canoes which had conveyed this great number of warriors from the mainland. Meanwhile we pulled slowly, to afford them time to arrange themselves. Arrived within 100 yards of the land, we anchored in line, the stone anchors being dropped from midships that the broadsides might front the shore. I told Lukanjah of Ukerewe to ask the men of Bumbireh if they would make peace, whether we should be friends, or whether we should fight. "Nangu, nangu, nangu!'* ("No, no, no!") they answered loudly, while they flourished spears and shields. " Will they not do anything to save Shekka ?" " Nangu, nangu ! Keep Shekka ; he is nobody. We have another M'kama " (king). "Will they do nothing to save Antari*s son?" "Nangu, nangu. Antari has many sons. We will do notliiug but fight. If you had not come here, wo should have come to you." "You will be sorry for it afterwards." VOL. I. . Jl 292 TJTEOUGn THE DABK CONTINENT. 1R75. " Huh," incredulously. " Come on ; wo are ready." August 4. Purtlier parley was useless ; so each man liavino" taken aim was directed to fire into a group of fifty or thereabouts. The result was several killed and wounded. The savages, perceiving the disastrous effect of our fire on a compact body, scattered, and came bounding down to the water's edge, some cf the boldest ad- vancing until they were hip-deep in water ; others, more cautious, sought the shelter of the cane-grass, whence tliey discharged many sheaves of arrows, all of which fell short of us. "We then moved to within 50 yards of the shore, to fire at close quarters, and each man was permitted to exercise himself as he best could. The savages gallantly held the water-line for an hour, and slung their stones with better eftect than they shot their arrows. The spirit which animated them proved what they might have done had they succeeded in effecting a landing at Mahyiga by night, but liere, however, the spear, with which they generally fight. was quite useless. Perceiving that their spirit was abating, we drew the canoes together, and made a feint as though vti were about to make a precipitate landing, wliich caused them to rush forward by hundreds with their speari - on the launch. The canoes were then suddenlv halted, and a volley was fired into the spearmen, which quiti) crushed their courage, causing them to retreat up tlie hill far away from the scene. Our work of chastise- ment was complete. The Waganda spearmen (230 strong), who had been, up to this time, only interested spectators, now clamoured loudly to be permitted to land, and coinpleto the work of vengeance. M'kwanga was fierce in lin demands ; the Wangwana seconded the WagauJa, ami WE START FOR UGANDA. 293 in their hot ardour several of the canoes rushed on i875. the shore, hut as this extremity was not my ohject, I ^"8"«t 4. resisted them, and when, despite my refusal, they persisted in their attempts to land, I threatened to lire upon the first man, Mgwana or Mganda, who set foot upon the shore, and this threat restored order. LulcuTijah was again told to warn the natives of Buiuhireh that, if they had not had enough of lighting, we should return next day, huo that we would allow tliera a night to think over it. It was dark when we arrived at our camp ; but we did not omit, while passing Iroba, to comfort the friendly king with the assurance that he need not fear trouble, as he was not involved in the atrocious acts of Biimbireh. Having thus shown sufficient boldness in meeting tlie enemy and demonstrated our ability for tho encounter, it was now clear that the passage of the channel, with the women and children and property of tlic Expedition, might be performed without danger. Accordingly, on the 5th August, at early dawn, we !' j;an the embarkation. The fourteen Kiganda canoes were large, with ample storage room, and all the goods, ammunition, and asses, and all the timid, men, women, children, and Wanyarnwezi, were placed in these. Our eighteen canoes of Ukerevve and Komeh and five lent us by generous Kytawa proved sufficient to transport the remainder, consisting of the more active members of the party, who were directed, in the event of trouble, to range on either side. At the tap of M'kwanga's drum, without which no party of Waganda march, and a cheery blast from Hamadi's bugle, the thirty-seven canoes and boat, containing 685 souls, departed from our island covo towards Bumbireh. About 9 A.M. we were abreast of Bumbireh, and X 2 294 THROUGE THE DARK CONTIN^T. Bumbireh. 1875. when, on coming to the bay, we saw hundreds of people Augusta. ijQJjjg |}jQ topmost ridges, I deemed it expedient to make a demonstration once more in order to discover tho effect of the previous day's engagement. On arriving near the shore, a shot wns fired, the effect of which was to cause about a hundred to scamper nwav hastily. Others, whom we distinguished as elders, after hailing us, came down towards us. Lukanjah was requested to ask, ** If we were to begin the fight again ? " *' Nangu, nangu, M'kama." (" No, no, king.") ** The trouble is over then ?" " There are no more words between us." " If we go away quietly, will you interfere with v° any more ?" " Nangu, nangu." " You will leave strangers alone in future ? " " Yes, yes." " You will not murder people who come to buy food again ? " Nangu, nangu." I then told them that, having murdered one and wounded eight of Mtesa's people, it would be my duty to convey Shekka and his friends to him, but I sliould intercede for them, and they would probably be back in two moons. Advantage was also taken to point out the contrast between the conduct of Bumbireh and that of Ukerewe, Komeh, Itawagumba, K}tawa, and Kamiru, and to adorn the brief speech with a moral. Turning away, we coasted along the much indented shores of the savage island, and several times liad opportunities of distinguishing the altered demeanour of the natives and to observe that their fierce temper had abated. King Kamiru received us with princely magniS- SALUTARY EFFECT OF TSE PUNISHMENT. 295 cence. The Wazongora who were with us extolled me 1875. as a father and begged his permission to accompany -^"sus* 8. nie to Uganda. Kamiru, a bluff, hearty old man, kindly consented, and furnished us with canoes to replace four of the most rotten of the vessels from Ukerewe, which required constant caulking and baling to prevent their foundering. The generous king supplied Frank and myself with such a quantity of milk and honey that several potfuls broke, and a section of the boat was ;i couple of inches deep with the luscious mixture, which the boat's crew licked up with broad grins of satisfaction. A bay separates Ihangiro from King Kamiru*s land. We were encamped on the north side, which belongs to Kamiru ; had we ventured on the south side, we should liave been in the enemy's country. Desirous of show- ing some kindness to Shekka and his friends, I made proposals to Kamiru to accept them on behalf of Mtesa and to negotiate with Antari for their release, but the king peremptorily refused, saying that he would be unable to protect them, and as they were Mtesa's subjects, they ought to be given up to him. On the 8th Augdst we arrived once more on the little island of Musira, whither we had before been driven by the natives of Makongo, in King Kytawa's country. The elders of all the villages along his coast greeted us with acclamation. Makongo outdid the generosity of Kamiru, for it sent four oxen besides 200 bunches of bananas. Kytawa despatched c\^^hQ a little army to bear his salaams and gifts of pro \ laions and messages, thanking me for avenging the death of liis el lief, and making an offer of twenty canoes if I \vere short of vessels. Inspired by the effect on the Wazongora which the punishment of the natives of Bumbireh had created, i^abadu hinted that it would be desirable to threaten '1 ?^ r T, 296 THROUGH THE DA£K CONTINENT. 1875. Atigust Dumo, 12, Kyozza, the king of northern Uzongora, but he was speedily made to understand that white men only fought in self-defence. As we proceeded by Kyozza's villages, Kagya, Weza, and Bugavu, the inhabitants lined the shores without arms and loudly greeted us ; and when we stopped for our midday meal at a village near ^Veza, a messenger from Kyozza came and promised Xij, ten oxen if we would wait for that day and accept his hospitalities. We returned a courteous reply, but refused, upon the ground that we were in a hurry to proceed to Uganda. We halted at Mezinda, and on the 12th August, passing by the mouth of the Alexandra Nile and Ohawasimba Point, directed our course for Dumo, in Uganda, at which place we arrived in the afternoon without further incident of interest. The next day was devoted to preparing a camp, arranging for supplies with the neighbouring Waton- goleh of Mtesa during my absence, and writing letters to the Daily Telegraph and New York Herald., giving in brief an account of the events which are described in detail in this chapter, a copy of which was left with Frank to send to tiie coast by way of Karagwe and Unyanyembe. A score of small matters employed my attention until midnight, of a similar nature to those arranged before setting out from Kagehyi on the exploration by circumnavigation of Lake Victoria in March. Before retiring, messengers arrived in camp from Magassa — the dilatory admiral of the canoe fleet despatched as my convoy in April — entreating me to wait a couple of days for him before setting out for the capital of Uganda. But as every hour was now precious, I was not able to defer my departure. MTESA AT WAH, 297 Lwirtu CHAPTER XII. ■W'efincl Mtesa at war — "Jack's Mount" — Meeting with Mtef5a — Tlie ■\Vaganda army in camp and on the march — The imperial harem — In sight of the enemy — The Waganda fleet — Preliminary skirmishing — The causeway — The massacre of Mtesa's peace party — " What do you know of angels?" — Mtesa's education proceeds in the intervals of war — Translating the Bible — Jesus or Mohammed? — Mtesa's decision — The royal proselyte. At Dumo rumour and gossip were busy about a war 1875. and a mighty preparation which Mtesa, the Emperor of """* Uganda, was making for an expedition against the Wavuma. He had not been as yet actually engaged, it was said, though it was expected he would be shortly. In the hope, then, of finding him at his capital, I resolved to be speedy in reaching him, so that, with- out much delay, I might be able to return and prosecute my journey to Lake Albert. The first day, favoured by a gale from the north-west, the Ladt/ Alice left the fastest of the Waganda canoes fiir behind, but, obliged to halt for her company, put in for the night among the mosquito-haunted papyrus of Bwiru. The next day, after sailing across Sess^ Channel, and passing the mouth of the Katonga, we rested at Jumba's Cove in Unjaku. From this cove runs a wide road constructed by Mtesa about two years before, when he undertook to invade Ankori and punish Mtambuko, the king of that shepherd state. Though untouched during two years, it is still sufficiently clear 298 THROUGH THE BARK CONTINENT. 1875. of grass to define its width and illustrate the energy August 18. Qf jJtesa when aroused. Ntewi. Q^ ^^ \^\h. August we sailed to Ntewi, where we learned two reliable facts. The king had already marched towards Usoga, and had an engagement with his enemies, the Wavuma. When I heard this news, I felt more than half inclined to turn back, for I knew by experience that African wars are tedious things, and I was not in the humour to be delayed long; but on reflection, and after much importunity from the Waganda, I adhered to the first intention, by which I thought that probably, though delayed, I might reach the Albert Nyanza by a short route, which would n a manner balance the delay occasioned by visiting Mtesa. We also heard that the Wavuma were abroad on the lake in hundreds of canoes searching for prey, and, not wishing the Lady Alice, which had already done me such good service, to fall into their hands, we conveyed the boat into the centre of the village, where we stored her and her appurtenances — oars, sails, rudder, &c. I also heard that the oars, which Magassa had received from Bumbireh, were in the chief of Ntewi's house, and had the satisfaction of seeing them once more under the charge of the boat-keeper. We halted at Ntewi one day, by which I was enabled not only to house the boat properly and to receive the oars, but to meet the two soldiers left as guard of honour with Magassa and to receive salaams from Mtesa, and more guards to ensure my welcome and comfort en route to him. Under the auspices of a considerable addition to our convoy, we left Ntewi, and, paddling vigorously during the afternoon of the 20th, arrived at Nankuma, in the bay of Buka. Here we left the canoes, and the next day prosecuted our journey overland to avoid the Wavuma, and camped at Ziba, at the base of " Jack's Mount." JACK'S MOUNT." 299 This name is derived from a fatal accident to my i875. faithful companion Jack, a bull-terrier of remarkable '^"^"^* ^'' inteHigence and affection which accompanied me from Mouu^.* England. A wild cow given by the Mtongoleh for the subsistence of the king's stranger, being rather obstreperous in her behaviour, was assaulted by Jack, but the cow in her turn tossed the unfortunate dog and gored him to death. He died '* regretted by all who knew his many good qualities." His companion, " Bull," the last of five English dogs, when he beheld bis poor mate stretched out still and dead, also expressed, as clearly as canine nature would allow, his great sorrow at his lamentable fate. Grave and deliberate from years and long travel, h ^, walked round the body two or three times, examining i: carefully, and then advanced to me with his honest eyes wide open as if co ask, " What has caused this ?" Receiving no answer, he went aside and sat down with his back to me, solemn and sad, as tbough he were ruminating despondingly on the evils wbich beset dog and man alike in this harsh and wicked world. The next day, marching in an east by north direction from Jack's Mount, we crossed the ^edziwa, a stream rising at the base of a hill situated but two miles from the north-western extremity of ** Grant * Bay,'* which I believe to be the ** Luajerri," a stream Speke sketched on his map as issuing from the Victoria and forming a second outlet into the Nile. Having explored by water all the coast washed by tbe Victoria Nyanza, and having since travelled on foot the entire distance between Nakaranga Cape and Buka Bay, I can state positively that there is but one outlet from the lake, viz. the Ripoh Falls. There are three rivers, one on the Usoga side of Napoleon * So called after Colonel James Augustus Grant, the amiable and chivalrous companion of Speke. % 300 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. Channel, called the Nagombwa, and two on the Uganda August 22 g.^^ — ^^^ Zedziwa, risiner in Makindo near Grant Bav and the Mwerango, rising west ot Mtesas capital — any of which, seen by travelkrs journeying at a little dis- tance from the lake, might be supposed by tliem to be outlets of Lake Victoria. The Nagombwa empties into the Yictoria Nile not far from Urondogani; the Zedziwa empties into the Yictoria Nile near Uion- dogani, and the Mwerango flows into the Mianja, 'ie Mianja flows into the Kafu, and the Kafu into the Victoria Nile, somewhere in the neighbourhood of Rionga's Isjand. At Makindo I received the Emperor's salaams for the fifth time since arriving in Uganda, and his walkin"-- stick,* as a token that it really was Mtesa who sent tlie repeated messages of welcome. By sea and by land his messengers of welcome had met me, and each stage was supplied with an " augmented greeting " with many manifestations of his regard. I was well con- vinced, from the repeated expeditions sent by land and water to hunt up news of me when Magassa reported me as dead, that the friendship conceived for me by Mtesa was something more than in name. ^ Arriving next day at Ugungu, opposite Jinja, or the Ripon Falls, two more messengers came up breathless from the imperial camp — which I could see covering many miles of ground — with yet an additional wel- come, and pointed out on the opposite side Mtesa and his chiefs, most picturesque in their white dresses and red caps, with a large con(?ourse of attendants, waiting to see my party cross the channel. Five large canoes were in readiness at the ferry, and also soldiers of the royal guard to escort us through the vast crowds on the other side of the channel. Far different was the scene on this day around the • This custom of sending walking-sticke also obtains in Dahomey. m ,i v 1 I Falls to that wh to that which I entered this chai For now the cb the shores of I thousands of me: was silent and falling waters w Crossing the many thousands, of the vast army of his empire. \ and straight-nos up for by a pre hundreds of coi us with as mu( who intruded i\ born, among the [laughter and j( vain Waso^ igazed on us, t curiosity to the who stood hy th look where I n Wasoga made t lamidst such a ] topee, EuropeaE created of some J [curiosities; yet iss, and stand hite-haired goa a whit less c isse, who until inch things. Bi •lacency with ^ ze on us, the MTESA'S ARMY. 301 Jinja, Falls to that which Speke had gazed ^pon in 1863, and 1875. [to that which I had seen five months before when l^^g"^'''^^ entered this channel after a skirmish with the Wavuma. For now the channel swarmed with large canoes, and the shores of Ugimgu and Jmja were covered with I thousands of men, women, and children ; while then all was silent and lonely, and the monotonous noise of falling waters was the only sound that was heard. Crossing the channel amid the noise and bur.tle of I many thousands, we soon found ourselves in the midst of the vast army that Mtesa had collected from all parts of his empire. Natives of Karagwe, lean, lank-bodied, and straight-nosed, with their deficiencies of calf made np for by a preposterous fulness of ankle, caused by hundreds of coils of fine iron wire, gathered round us with as much curiosity as the ferocious Wakedi, who intruded their bodies, naked as when they were born, among the clean-robed Waganda, reckless of the llaiighter and jeering which their nudity provoked. vain Wasoga also seemed *to forget, while they [gazed on us, that they were as much objects of curiosity to the rustic yet unabashed natives of Sesse^ who stood by them, as we were to them ; for, indeed, jlook where I might, the undisguised vanity of the llVasoga made them extremely conspicuous. Though lamidst such a large army of sable warriors, a solah Itopee, European complexion, and boots wonderfully Icreated of some kind of leather, might well be deemed priosities ; yet lambskins of all colours, stufied with iss, and standing erect on men's heads, and long vhite-haired goat-skin for robes and loin coverings, were not a whit less curious to the canoe-building natives of esse', who until now had never, it seemed, witnessed puch things. But, taking advantage of the quiet com- placency with which we permitted these warriors to aze on us, they began to press on us more closely • \\ 302 THROUGH TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. tlian was convenient, until they were scattered by tlie August 23. jnigi^i^^y sticks of the guards, who felled them to nVljt '°"'^' and left without remorse, and Wasoga, AVanyamhu Wakedi, Wazongora, and Waganda were compelled to be more careful of their bones than curious to see us. A short time afterwards, near the imperial quarters, I met the great chiefs of Uganda with whom I had struck •up an acquaintance on my first visit, among whom I recognized tall and handsome Chambarango, the king's steward Kauta, Sambuzi, and lastly the Katekiro— the Premier — brilliant in his scarlet robe, white dress, and fez, attended by a retinue almost regal. They all expressed their satisfaction at seeing me alive and safe, and were all anxious to hear how we had escaped from Bumbireh. The next day at the usual levee hour of Mtesa— 8 A.M. — tho drums announced the levee as begun, and half an hour later the pages came io conduct me to the presence of Mtesa. The imperial quarters covered an area of about 200 yards square, and though but temporarily put up, few Europeans could have con- structed such commodious houses and neat courts with such means, as the Waganda had prepared for tlieir sovereign. The gates of the outer court were thronged with representatives of many countries, anxious to get aj glimpse of the great :aonarch in his state; hut the; guards were merciless, and with gunstock and baton rudely thrust or beat back the intrusive nameless, and l were as flint-hearted in their office as London police- men are on a similar occasion. For me the pages sufficed. Their presence cleared a broad road to the I gate, which was drawn widely open to allow our pro- cession to go by. One court was passed, and when| the gate of the leveo court was drawn back, a most MEETING WITH MTESA. SOS gust 24 Jiuja. picturesque scene was disclosed. In the centre rose a 1875, conical hut, at the broad doorway of which sat a silent ■^"*^"''* fjfrure; on either side were standard-bearers and the hereditary guards, while, forming a broad crescent in the front rank, were the chiefs and important captains of the Empire seated on mats. In the background the bodyguards of Mtesa stood at ' shoulder arms ' in double ranks; in one corner were arranged the drummers and musicians, while scattered here and there in the vpen space before the monarch stood groups of claimants and courtiers. As I advanced, Mtesa rose, and came to the edge of the leopard-rug, on which his feet rested while seated, and there was even greater warmth in this greeting than on the former occasion at Usavara. After a short pause, Sabadu, the chief who had conducted me from Bumbireh, was called forward to relate the incidents I of our meeting, our fight with Bumbireh, and other events of the journey, which he did with a most wonderful minuteness of detail. He then in my name [presented the captives of Bumbireh to the king, with an intercession that he would not slay them, but keep I them in durance until their ransom was paid by jAntari. Mtesa was then informed of the purpose of iTiiY coming, which was to obtain the guides he had Ipromised me on my first visit, to show me the road to iMiita Nzige; and I begged he would furnish them pvithout much delay, as I had already lost considerable time from his canoes having failed me. Mtesa reph'ed that he was now engaged in a war <^ith tlie rebellious people of Uvuma, who insolently refused to pay their tribute, harassed the coast of ihagwe, and abducted his people, *' selh'ng them ifti'rwards for a few bunches of bananas," and that |t was not customary in Uganda to permit strangers to proceed on their journeys while the Kahaka was engaged f 304 THROUGH TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. in war, but that the war would soon be over, when i "j![^''' ' I would wait, he would send a chief with an arr conduct me to the Nyanza (Muta Nzige') by the shortestl road. " Besides," said he, " a small force cannot reach thatl lake. Kabba Rega of Unyoro is at present at warl with the whites of Kaniessa (Gondokoro), and tL J people of Ankori do not admit strangers into thcirj territory for trade or otherwise, and all the roads tal the lake run through their countries." After this intelligence I saw that I had either to renounce the project of exploring the Albert, an• got more knowledge, lie can now teach me right. I ain waiting to hear his words." • Mtesa smiled and said, "Kauta speaks well. If I taught him how to become a Muslim, I did it because I believed it to be good. Chambarango says, ' Let us take that which is best.' True, I want that ^vllic]l is the best, and I want the true book ; but Katekiro ask?, * How are we to know which is true ?' and I will answer him. Listen to me : The Arabs and the white men behave exactly as they are taught by their books, do they not ? The Arabs come here for ivory and slaves, and we have seen that they do not always speak the truth, and that they buy men of their own colour, and treat them badly, putting them in chains and beating them. The white men, when offered slaves, refuse them, saying, ' Shall we make our brothers slaves ? Xo ; we are all sons of God.' I have not heard a wliite man tell a lie yet. Speke came here, behaved well, and went his way home with his brother Grant. They bought no slaves, and the time they were in Uganda they were veiy good. Stamlee came here, and he would take no slaves. Abdul Aziz Bey (M. Linant Bellefonds) has been here, and is gone, and he took no slaves. What Arab would have refused slaves like these white men ? Though we deal in slaves, it is no reason wliy it should not be bad ; and when I think that the Arabs and the white men do as they are taught, I say that the white men are greatly superior to the Aralxs, and I think therefore that their book must be a better book THE ROYAL PROSELYTE. 325 than Mohammed's, and of all that Stamlee has read from i875. his book I see nothing too hard for me to believe. Tlie ^^''^®"''"- book begins from the very beginning of this world, tells us how it was made, and in how many days; gives us tlie words of God Himself, and of Moses, and the prophet Solomon, and Jesus, the son of Mary. I have listened to it all well pleased, and now I ask you, shall we accept this book or ]\Ioharamed's book as our guide ? " To which question, no doubt seeing the evident bent of Mtesa's own mind, they all replied, " AVe will take the white man's book ; " and at hearing their answer a manifest glow of pleasure lighted up the Emperor's face, Li this manner Mtesa renounced Islamism, and pro- fessed himself a convert to the Christian Faith, and he now announced his determination to adhere to his new religion, to build a church, and to do all in his power to promote the propagation of Christian sentiments among his people, and to conform to the best of his ability to the holy precepts contained in the Bible. I, on the other hand, proud of my convert, with whom I had diligently laboured during three months, pro- mised that, since Dallington wished it, I would release him from my service, that he might assist to confirm him in his new faith, that he might read the Bible for him, and perform the service of a Bible reader until the good people of Europe should send a priest to baptize him and teach him the duties of the Christian religion. " Stamlee," said Mtesa to me, as we parted, nearly two months after the massacre of the peace party, " say to the white people, when you write to them, that I am hke a man sitting in darkness, or born blind, and that all I ask is that I may be taught how to see, and I shiill continue a Christian while I live.' »» z 2 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^>. 1.0 I.I 11.25 lU iU u Uo U 1 1.6 6" --- »V^ /] -V^* ^ Photographic Sdeices Corporation \ ^ \ A ^A ^\ ^ ^ TjW ^"< ^.^ ^. 33 WIST MAIN STRIIT WHSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4S03 326 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT, CHAPTER XIIL The war-dnim beaten — The wizards play their part — In full war- paint — Bullets against spears — The Wavuma baulked — Mtesa's fury — Victory or the stake! — Hard fighting — The captive chief: a struggle between the Pagan and the Christian — A floating mystciy — " Eeturn, spirit ! the war is ended !" — The camp on fire : a race for life. 1875. On" the 14th September the Emperor of Uganda Hakaral a ^^^idcd to give battle to the Wavuma, who were daily becoming bolder and more boastful. In the morning, in accordance with Mtesa's orders, forty Waganda canoes sallied out from the beach in front of our camps to Nakaranga Point, where they formed in line of battle before the causeway, with the sterns of their canoes fronting Ingira, and their bows towards Nakaranga Point. Mtesa was followed by about three-fourths of his army when he proceeded to the point to view the battle, and with him went the great war-drums, to the number of fifty or thereabouts, and fifes about a hundred, and a great number of men shaking gourds filled with pebbles, and the court criers and mad charmers against evil were not wanting to create din and noise, and celebrate victory. A hut of ample size had been erected on the moun- tain slope overlooking the strait, into which Mtesa and his favourite women retired. When the Emperor was seated, the "prophets of Baal," or the priests and THE WIZARDS PLAT THEIR PART. 327 priestesses of the Muzimu, or witchcraft, came up, i875. more than a hundred in number, and offered the ^**'*' ^^ charms to Mtesa one after another in a most tedious cereraonious way, and to all of them Mtesa con- descended to point his imperial forefinger. The chief priest was a most fantastically dressed madman. It is customary before commencing a battle to carry all the potent medicines or charms of Uganda (thus propitiating the dreadful Muzimu or evil spirits) to the monarch, that he may touch or point his forefinger at them. They consist of dead liaards, bits of wood, hide, nails of dead people, claws of animals, and beaks of birds, a hideous miscellany, with mysterious compounds of herbs and leaves care- fully enclosed in vessels ornamented with varicoloured beads. During the bat Lie these wizards and witches chant their incantations, and exhibit their medicines on high before the foe, while the gourd-and-pebble bearers sound a hideous alarum, enough to cause the nerves of any man except an African to relax at once. Mtesa and his army were in full war-paint, and the principul men wore splendid leopard-skins over their backs, but the Wasoga bore the palm for splendour of dress and ornate equipments. Ankori the chief, and his oflScers were wonderfully gay. Snow-white ostrich plumes decorated their heads, and lion and leopard- skins covered their backs, while tlieir loins were girded with snow-white, long-haired monkey and goat skins ; even the staves of their lances ^vere ornamented with feathers and rings of white monkey-skin. There was ample time afforded to observe all these things, and to be exceedingly amused and interested i!i whut promised to be an animating scene, before all attention was drawn to and engaged by the battle. fr r 328 TEBOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. S'pt. 14. The spectators were seated, safe from harm or danger, on tlie slope of Nakaranga mountain, from the water's edge to tlie mountain summit, tier above tier, and rank above rank, in thousands upon thousands. The canoes, having formed line, slowly moved stern- wise towards Ingira. The Wavuma were not inrtctive spectators of this manoeuvre, but as yet their warriors had not embarked. They were busy mustering, while those appointed to garrison the island, with the women and children, several thousands in number, sate down on tlttj slopes of the opposite mountain of Ingira Island. The rushes and weeds lining the water's edge were too tall and thick to enable us to estimate exactly the number of the enemy's war-canoes, but the brown- coloured prows, long and curving, of a great manv were seen thrust out from among the vivid green banana plantations, or arranged on the rising beach of the island beyond its reedy margin. Having advanced with the utmost regularity of line, near enough to the island to make their " Brown Bess" muskets effective, the Waganda began to open fire in a steady, deliberate manner, and succeeded after awhile in annoying the foe and arousing him to action. At a given signal from their chiefs, forth from tlie reeds and rushes shot the prowls of the Wavuma canoes ; and then, giving utterance to most shrill war-cries, tlie rowers impelled them from all quarters, to the numher of 194, with an extraordinary velocity upon tlie Waganda line, which now began to retire slowh' towards the causeway. On the causeway at its farthest extremity were assembled a force of a hundred musketeers and four small boat howitzers under the command of the Katekiro and Mtesa's factotum Tori. The furious advance of the Wavuma soon caused tlie Waganda to hurry their movements, and on approach- THE WAVUMA BAULKED OF VICTOIiT. 329 inp: the causeway tliey parted their line, rushing on 1875. either side of it, giving the Kateldro and Tori ample ^"''^" ^^" opportunity to wreak tlieir will on the pursuers. But ' '^ "*°s^ owing to the want of skill of the cannoniers, and the nervousness of the musketeers, very little damage was inflicted on the Wavuma, but the noise and wliirring of lead and iron sufficed to check them, and caused tliem to witlidraw with much of the baffled aspect of hungry crocodiles cheated of their prey. This was all the battle — but, short as it was, it had sufficed to prove to me that Mtesa would be unable to take Ingira Island, garrisoned and defended as it was by such a determined foe. After a while Mtesa withdrew from tlie scene, the army returned to its quarters, and the canoes of the Waganda, closely hugging the Nakaranga shore, went back to their rendezvous, leaving the Wavuma masters of the situation. During the afternoon of this day Mtesa held a grand levee, and when all were assembled, he addressed them publicly to the effect that in a few days another battle would 1)6 fought, but as he had heard very important news, he intended to wait a while to ascertain if it was true. • Work progressed but languidly at the causeway. It was very tedious waiting, but my time was principally occupied in teaching Mtesa and his principal chiefs, and in gleaning such information as might enable mo to understand the complicated politics of the Empire. Suddenly on the 18th September, at early dawn, I orders were communicated to the chiefs to prepare for |lattle. The first intelligence of it that I received was [from the huge war-drums which summoned both sailors I and warriors to action. Cut first a burzah, or council, was held. Though Iwger to learn the news, I dared not appear too much iiiterested in the war, Sabadu, who would be present ; tM* i# / 330 TUROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT. Kakaranga. 1875. on guard, would be sure to relate to me all the details Sept. 18. ^£ whatever transpired. At night, though I interpolate it here for tlie benefit of tlie narrative, gossipy Sabadu, whose retentive brain I knew I -ould trust, conveyed to me a faithful report of the pr( ceedings ; and I cannot do better than give it to the reader in Sabadu's language. *' Ah ! master, you have missed a sight. I never saw Mtesa as he was to-day. Oh, it was awful ! His eyes were as large as ray fists. They jumped from their sockets, and they were glowing as fire. Didn't the chiefs tremble ! They were as children, whimpering' and crying for forgiveness. He said to them, * Wherein have I been unkind to you, that you will not fight f(»r me, for my slaves who were sent to Usoga have returned saying there was not a man but either had joined me or had already joined the Wavuraa ? Who gave you those clothes that you wear? Who gave you those guns you have ? W^as it not I ? Did Suna my father give his chiefs such fine things as I give ? No ; yet they fought for him, and the boldest of them would not have dared to advise him to fly, as you have done me. Am I not Kahaka ? Is this not Uganda, as well as my capital ? Have I not my army here ? And you, Katekiro, were you not a peasant before I dressed you and set you up as a chief of Uddu ? And you, Chambarango, who made you a chief? And yon, Mkwenda, and you, Sekebobo, and you, Kimbugwe, Kitunzi, Kaeema, Kangau, Kagu, speak, was it not I Mtesa who made you chiefs? Were you princes, that you came to be made chiefs, or peasants whom it was my i^leasure to make chiefs? Ah, ha! I shall see to-day who will not fight ; I will see to-day who dares to run away from the Wavuma. By the grave of my father, I will burn the man over a slow lire who runs away or turns his back, and the peasant! VICTORY OR THE STAKE \ 331 who distinguishes himself to-day sljall eat his land. 1875. Look out for yourselves, chiefs. I will sit down to-day ^^^' ^^' and watch for the coward, and the coward I will burn. 1 swear it.* Instantly the Katekiro fell on his face to tlie ground, and rubbed his face in the earth •'•nd cried, 'Kabaka' (emperor), *send me to-day to figut, watch mv flag, and if I turn my back to the Wavuma, then take and burn me or cut me to little pieces.* The example of the Katekiro was followed by the other chiefs, and they all swore to be desperately brave.'* About 8.30 A.M., while I was at the point of Niikaranga, the sound of drums approached me, and 1 knew that the council was ended, and that the battle would soon begin. Mtesa appeared anything but a Cliristian, judging from his looks. Fires of fury shot from his eyes ; and pages, women, chiefs, and all seemed awe-stricken. I was then ignorant of what bad taken place, but when I observed the absence of Cliambarango and several of the great^ Wakungu, or generals, I felt assured that Mtesa had lately been in the midst of a scene. Presently other drums sounded from the water-side, and soon the beautiful canoes of Uganda appeared in view. The entire war-fleet of 230 vessels rode grace- Mly on the calm grey waters of the channel. The line of battle, I observed, was formed by Cham- barango, in command of the right flank, with fifty I canoes ; Sambuzi, Mukavya, Chikwata, and Saruti, all I enb-chiefs, were ranged with 100 canoes under the I command of Kauta, the imperial steward to form the centre; the left flank was in charge of the gallant Mkwenda, who had eighty canoes. Tori commanded la force of musketeers, and with his four howitzers pas stationed on the causeway, which was by this [time 200 yards from the shore. Ill the above manner the fleet of vessels, containing m ^ 832 THIiOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. , 1- 1R75. some 16,000 men, moved to the attack upon Inj[^ira. Sept. 18. rpi^^ centre, defefided by the flanks, which were to a ""'"sa* j^^^^j,^^^ ^1^^ ^.^.jj. ^^' ^jjQ Wavnma should they npinoach near the causeway, resolutely advanced to within thirty yards of Ingira, and poured in a most lum- derous fire among the sliiigers of the island, who, imagining that the AVaganda meant to carry tlie hhwii by storm, boldly stood exposed, resolved to fight. IJut they were unable to maintain that courageous he- haviour long. Mkwenda then moved up from the left, and attacked with his musketeers the Wavuma on the right, riddling their canoes, and making miitters specially hot for them in that quarter. The Wavuma, seeing matters approaching a crisis, and not wishing to die tamely, manned their canoes, and 196 dashed impetuously, as at first, from the rushes of Ingira with loud shrill yells, and the Waganda lines moved backward to the centre of the channel, where they bravely and coolly maintained their position. As the centre of the Uganda line parted in front of the causeway and disclosed the hotly advancing enemy, Tori aimed the howitzers and fired at a group of ahout twenty canoes, completely shattering more than half of them, and re-loading one quickly, he discharged several bolts of iron three inches long among them with terrihle effect. Before this cool bearing of the Waganda, the "Wavuma retired to their island again, and we saw numbers of canoed discharging their dead and wounded, and the Waganda were summoned to Nakaranga slioro to receive the congratulations of the Emperor and tin applause of the vast multitude. Mtesa went down to the water's edge to express his satisfaction at their j behaviour. " Go at them again," said he, " and show them .»'hat| fighting is." And the line of battle was again fonned, and affain the Wavuma darted from the cover of the ' ,* #: t|. ft reeds and ' sharks, Leati ;ind rendin one of the e belield ; but, wliieli tlieir WagJinda di metliod, and formtrej)idit A third tir and a tliird enemy dashed in a battle \ rctiirm'Dg bloi I'Vtlie cnnoi] A third bal 178 Wavuma ^Vagaiida poss lliuy might ha 1^ avuma were A fourth b ^^'agtinda ean( u^^iial delay anc obtained the vi( kitliin 40 yaii (ln\eii from tl pnvitzers on t [fiition on them l|J not attemp i^wp-auized an "I'l experiencec '^'lie fleet of tl "til the jeers a ^? in their ear ^«ster, I learn 'liausted, and UABD FianTINO. 333 reeds and water- cane with the swiftness of hungry i«7.v sharks, beating the water into foam with their paddles, ^*''^- ^'• and rending the air with their piercing yells. It was * "'^^ one of the most exciting and animating scenes I ever klield; but, owing to the terror of the stake with wiiich tlieir dread monarch had threatened them, the Wiif,';inda distinguished themselves for coolness and meiliod, and the Wavumn, as on a former occasion, forintiei)idity and desperate courage. A third time the Waganda were urged to the battle, and a third time the unconquerable and desperate enemv dashed on them, to be smitten and wounded sore in a battle where they h.id not the least chance of returning blow for blow without danger of being swept ktlie cnnon and muskets on the causeway. A third battle was fought a few days after between li8 Wavuma canoes and 122 Waganda; but had the Waganda possessed the spirit and dash of their enemies, tk'V might have decided the war on this day, for tho Wavuma were greatly dispirited. A fourth battle was fought the next day by 214 I Waganda canoes and 203 Wavuma canoes, after the Mial delay and premonitory provocation. The Wavuma obtained the victory most signally, chasing the Waganda within 40 yards of Nakaranga Cape, and being only ven from their prey by the musketeers and the lliowitzers on the causeway, which inflicted great exe- Iciition on tliem at such close quarters. The Waganda ftiil not attempt a second trial this day, for they were disorganized and dispirited after the signal defeat they liaJ ex])erienced. The fleet of the Waganda returned to their rendezvous f ith the jeers and scoffs of the intrepid Wavuma ring- I"? in tlieir ears. On enquiring into the cause of the Wster, I learned that Mtesa's gunpowder was almost pliausted, and that he had scarcely a round left for m : i i i 334 THROVOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. eacli musket. This iiict alarmed him, and cv)inpeile(l Octobers, jijj^ |y re(]uest me to lend him my powder in tlie ""^ camp at Dumo, which was lefused in such u dicidoj tone that he never repeated the request. It was now tlie 5th October, and I had left mv camp on the 12th -August. It was necessary tliat I should participate in some manner in the war ajid end it. Yet I scai'cely knew how I should act elVtctivelv to i»r<)duce results l)eneficial to all parties. For tlionrjh my own interests and tlie welfare of the Ex])L'(liti(,u were involved and in a manner staked on the succi'ss of j the Waganda, and tliou<^li a passive i)artisnn of Mtesn, yet the brave Wavuma, by tlieir magnificent daring and superb courage, had challenged my fullest synipatliius. My energies and thoughts were bent, therefore, upon discovering a solution of the problem how to injure none, yet satisfy all. It was clear that the Wavuma would not surrender i without a frightful waste of life ; it was equiilly evi- dent that Mtesa would not relax his hold upon tliera! without some compensation or satisfaction, nor assist me in my jjrojects of exploration mdess I aided liim in some manner. At lengtli 1 devised a plan which I thouglit wouU! succeed ; but before I was enabled to ])erfect myscdionie an incident occurred which called for my immediate intervention. Mtesa, by means of his scouts, had succeeded inj capturing one of tlie principal chiefs of the Waviimn, and his Wakungu and principal strangers Lad beenl invited to be present to witness the execution of tins] chief at the stake. AVhen I arrived at the scene, a large quantity ofj fapfgots had already been collected to burn him. M this mode of punishment, Mtesa thought he would bej able to strike terror into the souls of the Wavuma. THE ITEATHEX CHRISTIAN. 835 Mtesa was in high glee wlien I entered tlie Cv>iincil : isys. !,e was unable to hide the triumph he felt at the terrible '^''^''^'^^ '- veni^eance lie was about to take for the massacre of Weblja, his favourite page, and the })eace party. "Now Staralee," he said, " when the cliief is at the slake" — he was an old man of sixty or thereabouts — "vou shall see how a chief of Uvuma dies. lie is about to be burnt. The Wavuma will tremble when tliev liuar of the manner of his death." "All, Mtesa," I said, " have you forgotten the words of the good book which I have read to you so often? 'If tliy brother olfend thee, thou shalt forgive him many times.' * Love thy enemies.' * Do good to ikm tlint hate you.' * Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself.' * Forgive us our trespasses, as we forgive tlieiii that trespass against us.' " "But this man is a native of Uvuma, and the IVavuma are at v/ar with me. Have you forgotten hVehha?" " Xo, I remember poor little Webba. I saw him die, iid I was very sorry." "Shall this man not die, Stamlee ? Shall I not have I Hood for him, Stamlee ? " "Xo." "But I shall, Stamlee. I will burn this man to laslies. I will burn every soul I catch. I will have lilood ! blood 1 the blood of all in Uvuma." "Xo, ^Itesa! no more blood. It is tim.e the war |was ended." "What!" said Mtesa bursting into one of those paroxysms of fury which Sabadu had so graphically described. " I will slay every soul in Uvuma, will cut Qowu every plantain, and burn every man, woman, M child on that island. By the grave of my father Wa, Iwill." " Xo, Mtesa, you must stop this wild pagan way of 4 336 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October 5. NakaraDga. •■♦ thinking. It is only a pagan who always dreams of blood and talks of shedding blood as you do. It is only the pagan boy Mtesa who speaks now. It is not the man Mtesa whom I saw, and whom I made a friend. It is not ' Mtesa the Good,' whom you said your people loved. It is not Mtesa the Christian, it is the savage. Bah ! I have had enough of you. I know you now." " Stamlee ! Stamlee ! Wait a short time, and yon will see. What are you waiting for?" he said, suddenly turning round to the executioners, who were watching •bis looks. Instantly the poor old man was bound ; but, suddeiily rising, I said to Mtesa, " Listen to one word. The white man speaks but once. Listen to me for the last time. You remember tlie tale of Kintu ^dlich vou told me tiie other day. He left the land of Uganda because it stank with blood. As Kintu left Uganda in the old, old days, I shall leave it, never to return. To-d;iy Kintu is looking down upon you from the spirit-land, and as he rebuked Ma'anda for murdering his faithful servant, so is he rebuking you to-day through me. Yes, kill that poor old man, and I shall leave you to-day, unless you kill me too, and from Zanzibar to Cairo I shall tell every Arab I meet what a murderous heast you are, and through all the white man's land I sliall tell with a loud voice what wicked act I saw Mtesa do, and li'^w the other day he wanted to run awav because he heard a silly old woman say the AVasuga were marching upon him. How grand old Kamanya must have wept in the spirit-land when he heard ot j ]\Itesa about to run away. How the lion-hearted Sima must have groaned when he saw Mtesa shiver in terror | because an old wouian had had a bad dream. Good- bye, Mtesa. You may kill the Mvuma chief, but I ami going, and shall not see it," TUE CHRISTIAN HEATHEN. 337 Mtesa's face had been a picture wherein the passions 1875. of brutish fury and thirsty murder were portrayed ^<=^°^^''*- most faithfully ; but at the mention of Suna and Kamanya in the spirit-land looking down upon him, the tears began to well in his eyes, and finally, while tliey rolled in large drops down his face, he sobbed loudly like a child, while the chiefs and executioners, iii;uiitaii)ing a deathly silence, looked very uncomfort- able. Tori the cannon ier and Kauta the steward, liowever, sprang up, and, unrolling their head-dresses, officiously wiped Mtesa*s face, while the poor wayward man murmured audibly as I walked away from the ' scene : — " Did not Stamlee talk about the spirit-land, and say that Suna was angry with me ? Oh, he speaks too true, too true ! father, forgive me, forgive me.'* After which, I was told he suddenly broke away from tlie council. An hour afterwards T was summoned by a page to Lis presfc.:<"e, and Mtesa said : — " Stamlee will not say Mtesa is bad now, for he has firgiven the Mvuma chief, and will not hurt him. Will Stamlee say that Mtesa is good now ? And does lie think Suna is glad now ? " " Mtesa is very good," and I clasped his hand warmly, 'Be patient, all shall come out right, and Kintu and Suna must Le glad when they see that Mtesa is kind to his I guests. I have something to tell you. I have thought I over your trouble here, and I want to finish this war for your good without any more trouble. I will build a structure which shall terrify the AYavuma, and make tlieni glad of a peace, but you must give me plenty of hneu to help me, and in three days I shall be ready. IMiantime shout out to the "Wavuma from the causeway liat you have something which will be so terrible iiat it will finish the war at once." ■|* ! t: 338 TEROUan TEE DARK CONTINENT. Nakai'UDga. .« 1875. " Take everybody, do anything you like ; I will o-Ive October 6. ^^^^ Sckebobo and all his men." ' The next morning Sekebobo brought about 2000 men before my quarters, and requested to know my will. I told him to despatch 1000 men to cut long poles 1 inch thick, 300 to cut poles 3 inches thick and 7 feet long, 100 to cut straight long trees 4 inches thick, and 100 to disbark all these, and make bark rope. Himself and 500 men I wished to assist me at the beach. The chief communicated my in- structions and urged them to be speedy, as it w.is the Emperor's command, and himself accomi)anieJ me to the canoe fleet. I selected three of the strongest-built canoes, eadi 70 feet long and Ci feet wide, and, after prepariiii;- a space of ground near the water's edge, had them drawn up parallel with one another, and 4 feet apart from each other. With these three canoes I began to construct a floating platform, laying the tall trees across the canoes, and lashing them firmly to the thwarts, and as fast as the 7-foot poles came, I had them lashed in an upright position to the thwarts of the outer canoes, and as fast as the inch poles arrived, I had them twisted in among these uprights, so that when completed, it resembled an oblong stockade, 70 feet long by 27 feet wide, which the spears of the enemy could not penetrate. On the afternoon of the second day, the floating fort was finished, and Mtesa and his chiefs came down ti' the beach to see it launched and navigated for a trial trip. The ciiiefs, when tliey saw it, began to say it I would sink, and communicated their fears to Mtesn. who half believed them. But the Emperor's woiiiLiiJ said to him: "Leave Standee alone; he would ii"''| make such a thing if he did not know that it woi; float." On rec paddlers stand by \ appointed su peri liter gate of th land. A Jauiicli it, when the Til ^'as eviden easily and & "The in To bo Once IiajJOii and a burs inventor. Several !< ^ere lioistcM, ^'J'jsed u]) al in a \ery rn silent and calculated tc sava_o-c'. VOL. I. A FLOATING MYSTERY. 339 Oa receiving orders to launch it, I selected sixty 1875. paddlers and 150 musketeers of the bodyccuard to 11 11 -11111 1 Nakaranga. stand by to embark as soon as it should be atloat, and appointed Tori and one of my own best men to superintend its navigation, and told tbem to close the jrate of the fort as soon as they pushed off from the land. About 1000 men were then set to work to lauiicli it, and soon it was floating in the water, and wkii the crow and garrison, 214 souls, were in it, it TUE FLOATING FORTLET MOVING TOWARDS INGIRA. was evident to all that it rode the waves of the lake easily and safely — " Tlic invention all admired, and each how he To be the inventor missed, so easy it sct-med Once found, which yet unfound most would have thought lmi)Ossiblo " — and .1 burst of applause from the army rewarded the inventor. Several long blue Kaniki and white and red cloths were hoisted above this curious structure, which, when closed up all round, appeared to move of its own accord in a verv mvsterious maimer, and to conceal within its i^ilent and impenetrable wnlls some dread thing, well caleidated to strike terror into the mind of the ignorant savapi-e. VOL. I. 2 A 340 TUROUGn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October 13, Kakaranga. !'. At eight o'clock on the morning of the 13th October the army was assembled at Nakaranga with unusual display, and it was proclaimed across the strait from the extremity of the causeway that a terrible thing was approaching which would blow them into atoms if they did not make peace at once and acknowledge the pow er of Mtesa ; and I believe that they declared that all the Muzimus and the charms of Uganda were within, for I heard something said about Muzimu and Uganda. The old Mvuma chief was also placed in prominent view, and induced to urge them to accept the terms which Mtesa offered, viz. pardon to all, provided they went through the form of submission. After this announcement, which was made with all gravity, the awful mysterious structure appeared, while the drums beat a tremendous sound, and the multitude of horns blew a deafening blast. It was a moment of anxiety to me, for manifold reasons. The fort, perfectly defensible in itself against the most furious assaults by men armed with s})ears, steadily approached the point, then steered direct for the island of Ingira, until it was within fifty yards. " Speak," said a stentorian voice amid a deathly silence within. " What will you do ? Will you make peace and submit to Mtesa, or shall we blow up the island ? Be quick and answer." There was a moment's consultation among the awe- stricken Wavuma. Immediate decision was imperative. The structure was vast, totally unlike anything that was ever visible on the waters of their sea. There was no person visible, yet a voice spoke clear and loud. Was it a spirit, the Wazimu of all Uganda, more propitious to their enemy's prayers than those of the Wavuma? It might contain some devilish, awful, thing, something similar to the evil spirits which in their hours of melancholy and gloom their imagination invoked. "RETURN, SPIRIT 1 THE WAR IS ENDED!'' 341 Tliere was an audacity and confidence in its movements that was perfectly appalling. " Speak," repeated the stern voice ; " we cannot wait longer." Immediately, to our relief, a man, evidently a chief, answered, " Enough ; let Mtesa be satisfied. We will collect the tribute to-day, and will come to Mtesa. Kcturn, spirit, the war is ended ! " At which the iiivsUrious structure solemnly began its return back to the cove where it had been constructed, and the (|iiarter of a million of savage human beings, spectators of the extraordinary scene, gave a shout that seemed to split tlie very sky, and Ingira's bold height repeated the shock of sound back to Nakaranga. Three hours afterwards a canoe came from Ingira Island, bearing fifty men, some of whom were chiefs. They brought with them several tusks of ivory, and two young girls, daughters of the two principal chiefs of Uvnma. These were the tribute. The ivory was dellNcred over to the charge of the steward, and the young girls were admitted to the harem of Mtesa, into ths mystery of which no man dare penetrate and live. The old Mvuma chief was surrendered to his trile, and thus the long war terminated on the evening of the 13th October 1875. Grlad shouts from both sides announced all parties c'lually pleased. The same afternoon the canoe fleet of Uganda, which had by this time been reduced to 275 in mmibcr, was escorted as far as Jinja by twenty Wavuma canoes, and after it had departed and rounded Xamngongo Point, releasing their late foe from all liar of treacliery, the Wavuma canoes presented us ^\itli a peaceful exhibition of their dexterity, and gave ^is an opportunity of viewing them more distinctly than we had previously been able to do through the smoke of gunpowder. 2 A 2 1875. October 13. Nakaranga. I M^^^"^ |i ■'■■- ^i- 342 TERGUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. , ^\ 1875. We set out next morning, the 15th October, at October 15. ^^^^g o'clock. We weie wakened by the tremendous "Jojussu," the great king of war-drums. Instantly we began to pack up, but I was scarcely dresse'l before my people rushed up to me, crying that the immense camp was fired in a hundred different places. I rushed out of my hut, and was astounded to see that the flames devoured the grass huts so fast that, unless we instantly departed, we should be burnt along with them. Hastily snatching my pistols, I bade the Wangwana shoulder the goods and folluwr me as they valued their lives. The great road from Mtesa*s quarters to Nakaran^a Point, though 100 feet wide, was rendered impassable by furious, overlapping waves of fire. There was only one way left, which was up the slope of Nakaranga mountain, and through the camp of the Wasoga. We were not alone in the attempt to escape by this way, for about 60,000 human beings had sought the same path, and were wedged into an almost solid mass, so great was the danger and the anxiety to be away from the cruel sea of fire below. It was a grand scene, but a truly terrible one ; and I thought, as I looked down on it, that the Waganda were now avenging the dead Wavuma with their own hands, for out of a quarter of a million human beings there must have been an immense number of sick unable to move. Besides these, what numbers of witless women and little ones having lost presence of mind must have perished ; and how many must have been trampled down by the rush of such a vast number to escape the conflagration! The wide-leaping, liir- renchiiig tongues of flame voraciously eating the dry, tindery material of the huts, and blown by a strong breeze from the lake, almost took my breath away, anJ several times I felt as if my very vitals were bein^ scorched ; but with heads bent low we charged ou tober, at jmendous Instantly ' drosseil that the different istoundeil I huts so should be ly pistols, md folluw [akaranf>-a mpassable ! was onlv ^akaranp-a 50ga. W this wav, the same 1 mass, so iway from i one ; and Waganda mi\\ their on human lumber of lumbers of presence must have ist numher iping, far- tr the dry, Y a stronj? away, and rere hein^ larged ou € ii^^ ** THE blindlv, kn preserviitioi As soon I tiie kiggan kept them tliaii halt' ir air, and coti Iiiihgruiii t'^'.ed Mtesi [larty far f] iliuiig'h rep to Lis party to nie why without giv g'liest. His gross reckle several per; and tluit li and woiner he was not salaams, an the Ugandf on the 18th Sama-Moa, in THE ijunxixa camp: a race for life. 343 blindly, knowing no guide save the instinct of self- preservation. As soon axS an opportunity permitted, I looked after the kigg'ards of my party, and by dint of severity kept tliem together, but three or four were more tliaii half inclined to give in before we breathed cooler air, luid could congratulate ourselves upon our safety. Iiklignant at such a murderous course, for I mentally t"xed Mtesa with this criminal folly, I marched my party far from the route of the Waganda army, and ihuug'h repeatedly urged by Mtesa to attach myself to liis party, I declined to do so until ho should explain to me why he had commanded the camp to be fired without giving warning to his people or to myself, his guest. His messenger at once acquitted him of such gross reckle>sne3S, and declared that he had arrested several persons suspected of having fired the camp, and that he himself had suffered the loss of goods and women in the flames. I thereupon, glad that he was not the author of the catastrophe, sent my salaams, and a promise to rejoin him at Ugungn, on the Uganda side of the Hipon Falls, which 1 did on the IStli October. t«75. Octolier 1.'). Nukuruug.i. FI9H FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA. Sama-Moa, in tlie Nynssa tongue; round, open-mouthed, scaleJ, anl pig-iicaded-'.coking creature, 20 iLches long. m W f'\. f: S4i TimOUaU TUB dauk coxtjxext. CHAPTER XIV. 1875. Octdlier. Uganda. The T.rfrcnrl of llic Blameless Tricst — The heroes of Ufranda — Chwa — Kiniera, tlio f^iaut — Nakivingi — Kihaga, the flying warrior — Ma'aiula— Wakingnru, tlio cham])ioii — Kamauya, the oonqiuror of tlio Wakedi— Sniia the criiol — His massacre of the Waso^'a — NamiiJTirilwa, the Achilles of Uganda — Setuha and his lions — Kasiiidula the hero, peasant, and premier — Mtesa the mild-eyed. Having arrived safely in Uganda, through most extraordinary and novel scenes, I may be permitted to leave the direct narrative of onr travels and our life in Uganda in order to inform the reader on certain points of the history of Mtesa's country, beginning with Kintu, Priest, Patriarch, and first King of Uganda. Whatever of the incredible or marvellous may be discovered by the learned critic in this chapter must not be debited against the author, but against S;i])adu and the elders who are responsible for the tale of Kintu, the wars of Kamanya, Suna, and Mtesa, and the feats of Namujurilvva, Setuba, and Kasindula the heroes, while ^ftesa himself furnished me with the names of the kings his forefathers, with many other facts con- tained in this chapter. For my part I regret only that want of space compels me to compress what I have gathered of tlie history of this interesting country into a few pages, but brief as it is, I venture to believe that it will not be without interest to a large class of readers. Uganda, then, was first peopled by immigrants from the north, about the thirteenth or fourteenth century. But the date at which I thus fix the arrival of the THE LEGEND OF THE BLAMELESS PRIEST. 3:15 patriarch Kiritu may be wron"^ ; lie may have arrived at a iTiiich earlier period, and tlie names of a large nuniher of his successors may have sunk into oi)livion. Tradition, as well as it has been able, has faithfully preserved the memory of the acts of the first of these imiiiif?ranls, though it has contemptuously omitted \\\ii acts of his successors, and as usual bas contrived to endow its favourites, here as elsewhere, with iiiarvL'llous power and extraordinary attributes. Kintii, the first immigrant and the founder of Uganda, (nine from the north, and perha])s derived his descent from ^ome African Arab or ancient Illthiopic family. lie was a mild, humane, and blameless man, and from liis character was probably a priest of some old and long forgotten order. He brought with him one ^vil'e, one cow, one goat, one sheep, one banana-root, ;ind a sweet potato ; and, journeying in search of a suitable land to dwell in, established himself finally on the western bank of the Mwerango river, at Magonga,* near the present frontier of Unyoro. He found the country uninhabited, for not a single soul then dwelt in all the land lying between the lakes Victoria and Albert and Muta Nzige. Usoga was a wilderness, Ukedi a desolate plain, and the fertile valleys of Unyoro were unpeopled. The priest Kintu was alone in his kingdom. But these countries were not destined to remain desolate long, for liis wife was remarkably prolific. She brought forth four children at a birth each year, and each male issued into the world with an incipioip^ beard and the powers of lusty prime youth ; and the female children at two years of age bore children, who at an equally early age con- ceived and bore isoog and daughters, until the land * Some of the "Waganda believe, however, that Kintu, or Ham, !>'' Mtesa now believes him to be, was buritid at Magouga; but I prefer to adhere to the legend as it was related to me. 1«75. Oc'totier. Ugauda. 846 TUROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Ugu. du. i> n began to be fully peopled, the forests to be cut down the land to be cultivated, and planted with banauas and corn. The single cow, goat, sheep, and chicken increased after their kind by some extraordinary manner, until the^ grew so numerous that each of the offsprino' of Kintu soon possessed large herds of cattle, and flocks ot sheep and goats, and numerous chickens. The banana- root also, once planted in the soil of Uganda by the holy hand? of Kintu, sprang up almost instantly int) a stalk oi vast girth, from the top of which liun;^ pendent such a cluster of fruit as is not seen iu Uganda nowadays, and the root spread itself over a large area, from which hundreds of bananas sliot upward with great stalks and all the leafy luxuriance of a large plantation. The potato-plant also vied with the banana, for so great was its vitality that it appeared to crawl over the ground, so fast was its growtli. When his offspring had grown so numerons that they crowded Magonga, Kintu cut portions of tho original banana-root and potato-plant and gave to each family a portion, and having taught tbeni how ** to sow the glebe and plant the generous vine," Lade them seek each a home, and establish themselves in the land round about him. Those who received the banana established their home south of Magonga, while those who received the sweet-potato plant migrated to the north of ^lagonga, and dwelt in the valleys of Unyoro. Hence it is that to this day the people of Ugandu, south, and all about Magonga prefer the banana for food, while the people of Wanyoro have such a pre- dilection for sweet potatoes. Being a priest, Kintu entertained a special aversion to the shedding of blood, whether of man, animal, bird, or insect, but he did not instruct his offspring to abstain from shedding the blood of beasts. If any THE LEGEND OF THE BLAMELESS PRIEST. 347 Uganda. animal was to be slain for food, it was ordained that it 187.1. should bo taken far from the neighbourhood of his ^'^^^"''"• lioiise, and it' a man was to be executed for murder, the executioner dare not slay his victim near Kintu or liis house or his garden, neither might the man of hlond at any time approach the patriarch's person. If tie culprit on his way to execution could contrive to iiwke his way to Kintu's presence and touch liis feet or his giuineuts, or were the patriarch even to cast his eves on him, liis life was safe. When the good patriarch became old his children foi'trot to follow his pious example, for from the banana they had discovered the art of making wine and strong drinks, with which they debauched themselves, and, \m% daily intoxicated, committed indecencies, became violent iu language, reckless and hardened in impiety, and, worse than all, so rebellious as to threaten to depose and kill him. Kintu bore this conduct in his Diiloving children with meekness and sorrow for a long time, but warned them that their impiety and violence would be punished some day ; but they heeded him not, for the wine had maddened them. After a time, finding his admonitions of no avail, he lid to his wife, " See, my sons whom I brougbt into this world have become wicked and hard of heart, and they [threaten to drive their father away or kill him, for they jsay I am become old and useless. I am like a hateful stranger amongst my own children. They shed the [blood of their brothers daily, and there is nothing but ling and bloodshed now, until I am sick of blood. It is time for ns to get away and depart elsewhere. Come, let us go." And in the night Kintu and his p'ife departed, taking with them their original cow, pat, sheep, chicken, a banana-root, and a sweet-potato Iplaiit. In the morning it became known that their father >«*i 348 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. JgaoUa. . --? *S'. 1375. Kintu was not in his house, nor to be found anywhere October. ^|j^^ j^g j^^^ |g£^ ^^^ country with all the things which he had brought thither when he first arrived'. Then all were filled with sorrow, and great lamentation was made throughout the land. After three days, during which search was instituted far and wide for the lost patriarch, Chwa, the eldest son, took his spear and shield in his hand and said, " I am the first-born, and it is my right to sit in the ])lace of my father. Now you, my brothers, be good and beware of my spear " ; and Chwa being strong, his brothers feared him, and paid homage to him as their king. Chwa did not abandon the search for his lather, though he had attained the regal power. He seems to have cherished a hope that in some distant country his father would be discovered, whither he might be able to proceed to him and ask his forgiveness. A rumour sometimes reached Chwa that his father had been seen, but none of his several messengers suc- ceeded in seeing him, and he at last died without the hope being gratified. Chwa was succeeded by his son Kamiera, a name to this day retained by the members of the imperial family. Like his father Chwa, Kamiera searched for tlie patri- arch Kintu until his own death, without success. Kamiera was succeeded by his gigantic son Kimera, who distinguished himself as a hunter. He first intro- duced dogs for the chase, and was so fond of them that he always led one by the cord wherever he went. It was from this king that his successors inherited their partiality for the canine race, and in the memory of many yet living Suna is remembered for his extra- ordinary attaclnnent to dogs, for the special subsistence of which lie surrendered whole districts. Mtesa was also seen by Spoke showing great fondness for a dog', h'lt the present monarch lias long ago abandoned tins KIMERA, THE GIANT. 349 nstituted Idestson, 1, "lam place of ,d beware , brotliers idng. lis lather, I seems to Duntry liis lit be able traditional predilection, and lie now prohibits their presence in his court. Kimera was of such size, strength, and weight that liis feet made marks in rocks, and the impress of one of liis feet is shown to tbis day by the antiquarians of Uo-anda in a rock situated not far from the capital, riagalla. It is said that this mark was made by one of his feet slipping while he was in the act of launching Lis spear at an elephant. Kimera also explored countries remote and near, searching all the forests, the wilderness, the plains, the fastnesses of the moun- tiuiis, the summits of hills and the caves, and travelled along all the river-banks in vain quest for the lost Kintu. The fact seemed to be impressed on the minds of all that Kintu was only lost, not dead, that he was immortal, and Kimera, even raore than his predecessors, was indefiitigable in his eflforts to verify this belief. He led in person large • expeditions, and oifered great rewards to peasants, promising to make him who dis- covered Kintu next to the king in power — the Katekiro of Uganda. But he likewise failed in the search, and finally died. Almass (which name, if Arabic, rendered into English means " Diamond ") succeeded Kimera the liunter. This king's name is a favourite one among the Arabs, which I take to be further evidence tliat the founder of the Uganda monarchy had Asiatic jUood in his veins. Of Almass, tradition says nothing Bave that, like his father, he hoped to find Kintu. On |liis death he was succeeded by his son Tenibo. Alter Tembo came Kigara, Wanpamba, Kaeema, and ^akivingi, the last being remembered for his heroic ^!>lour and many conquests. ^'akiviiigi fought and subjected the Wanyoro, who, |rom their predilection for sweet potatoes, may have 1875. October. Uganda. 350 TEROUan THE DARK CONTINENT, 1875. October. Ugauda. I' ; deemed themselves long ago a separate people from the Waganda, a theory by no means supported by the authority of venerable tradition. After Nakivingi we have a long list of kings, about whom tradition, fable, and history are alike silent. Morondo succeeded Nakivingi — the Charlemagne of Uganda — and after him followed Sekamanya, Jemba, Suna I., Kimbugwe, Katerega, Ntewi, and Juko. This last, it is said, had a headstrong, violent, and disobedient son, named Kyemba, whom he was obliged to pacify with the island of Uvuma, whence afterwards he appeared in Uganda, deposed his father Juko, and, slaying him, reigned in his stead. One of the heroes of Nakivingi was a warrior named Kibaga, who possessed the power of flying. When- the king warred with the Wanyoro, he sent Kibaga into the air lO ascertain the whereabouts of the foe, who, when discovered by this extraordinary being, were attacked on land in their hiding-places by Nakivingi, and from above by the active and faithful Kibaga, who showered great rocks on them and by these means slew a vast number. It happened that among the captives of Unyoro Kibaga saw a beautiful woman, who was solicited by the king in marriage. As Nakivingi was greatly indebted to Kibaga for his unique services, he gave her to Kibaga as wife, with a warning, however, not to im- part the knowledge of his power to her, lest she sliouLl betray him. For a long time after marriage his wife knew nothing of his power, but suspecting somethinc: strange in him from his repeated sudden absences ami reappearances at his home, she set herself to watch him, and one morning as he left his hut she was surpriseJ to see him suddcidy mount into the air wnth a burden | of rocks slung on his back. On seeing this she remem- bered the AVaiiyoro complaining that more of their KIBAGA, THE FLYING WARRIOR. 351 people were killed by some means from above than 1875. by the spears of Nakivingi, and Delilah-like, loving *^°*°^^'"* lier race and her people more than she loved her ^^^ ^* liiisband, she hastened to her people's camp, and com- municated, to the surprise of the Wanyoro, what she lad that day learned. To avenge themselves on Kibaga, the Wanyoro set arcliers in ambush on the summits of each' lofty hill, with instructions to confine themselves to watching tlie air and listening for the brushing of his wings, and to shoot their arrows in the direction of the sound, whether anything was seen or not. By this means on a certain day, as Nakivingi marched to the battle, Kibaga was wounded to the death by an arrow, and upon the road large drops of blood were seen falling, and on coming to a tall tree the king detected a dead ijody entangled in its branches. When the tree was cut down, Nakivingi saw to his infinite sorrow that it was the body of his faithful flying warrior Kibaga. Succeeding Kyemba came Tiwande'ke, Mdowra, Kaguru, Kikuruwe, and Ma'anda. It was the fortune of this last king to discover news of the lost Kintu, after a most remarkable and romantic manner. Though history and fable are silent respecting the acts of many of Ma'anda's predecessors, we may well k'lieve that each king made efforts to discover the missing Kintu, as the belief that he was still alive obtained as firm credence in the reign of Ma'anda as in tlie days of Chwa and Kimera. With Ma'anda this lilief was very strong, and si)urred by the hope that f'nme day it would be his happy fortune to be success- ful, he was ardent in the clinse, penetrating great lia-ests, and traversing extensive plains and valleys, Ostensibly to hunt game, but really to hunt up news of Kintu. It happened one day, after returning to his capital ■ i .1] 352 THROUGH THE BARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. I from one of these expeditions, that a peasant living not far off was compelled from lack of fuel for his family to enter a forest to cut wood. Having over-exerted him- self, and being very much fatigued, and his home beiiio- far, he resolved to sleep in the forest, near his wood- pile. For the sate of security and uninterrupted sleep he constructed a rude hut, and fenced it round with the branches of the prostrate trees, and when it was com- pleted he laid himself down and slept. And a sound sleep it was, we may imagine, induced by hard labour and fatigue, though not a dreamless one. For in his sleep, it is said, he dreamed a strange dream, wherein he thought he heard a voice, which said, " Go to a place in this forest, where the trees are very thick, round an open space near a stream running by, and you will there see something which will give you great wealth, and make you a great chief." Three times the dream was repeated. These words caused the heart of the sleeping peasant to bound for joy ; so much so that it woke him, and then he began to regret that the good which was promised him was but a dream and a mockery. But reflecting that he knew the place described, for he had often been there, and that it was not very far off, he thought he might as well obey the voice in the dream, if only for the sake of satisfying his curiosity. He had dreamed the same dream thrice, and each time the voice had been emphatic and precise, and he thought that there might be something of truth conveyed in it. After a few hours' hurried travel, he approached the place described, and his movements towards the spot became now very cautious, lest some event might occur quite the reverse of his hopes, as dreams some- times go by contraries. He heard the murmur and I gurgle of the stream, and the soughing of the branches of the forest overhead in such a solitary place filled his TEE LEGEND OF TEE BIAMELES8 PEIEST, 353 heart witli awe. He began to feel frightened, though lie knew not at what, and was more than half inclined to turn back. Yet this eerie feeling and alarm might be causeless ; he therefore advanced into the open space, and suddenly he saw there a sight that almost petrified Ranged in two rows, on either side of a venerable man, who reclined on a kind of throne, were many Tvarriors seated on mats. They held spears and shields in tlieir hands, and the complexion of these men was so li'^lit as to resemble that of white men. The central fio-ure on the throne was that of an old man, whose long beard was white with age, and his complexion was similar to the warriors seated on thf mats. All were clothed in spotless white robes. For a time no man spoke, though all eyes were turned on the astonished and awed peasant, and regarded him with a stern and awful gaze. Finally, the silence was broken by the voice of the old man, which sounded to the peasant like that which he had heard in the dream, and it said, " Peasant, tell me what country this is." ' The peasant answered, trembling, and perspiring through excessive fear, " Eh, don't you know ? This is Uganda." " And who was the first king ? " demanded the old man. " Come, tell me his name ? " " Kintii," answered the peasant. " True," said the old man. '-' Now, tell me the name oftlie present king ? " " Ma'anda," replied the peasant. " Well then, depart instantly, and haste to Ma'anda the king, and bid him come to Kintu, who shall be here to meet him, for Ma'anda has long searched for Kintu, and Kintu has somewhat to tell Ma'anda. Bid him come hither accompanied only by his mother and 1875. October. Uganda. 354 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Cganda. thyself, and mark me, not even his dog must 1o11o"t him. Haste and tell King Ma'anda all thou hast seen and heard, and if thou art faithful thy reward shall be great." The peasant needed to hear no more, hut turned and fled away with the speed of an antelope, and early at dawn next day arrived at the capital, and pro- ceeded direct to the Katekiro, to whom he said, "I have news to tell King Ma'anda, and no man else must hear it. Take me to the king without delay." The man's manner, though he was mean in appear- ance, w^as peremptory, and the Katekiro dared not refuse his request, but rose and conducted him to tlie king. It happened, strangely enough, that at the same moment Ma'anda was relating to his mother, whom he had sent for, the story of a strange dream he had dreamed during the night. He had scarcely finished its relation when the Katekiro was announced, who said to him, " King, here is a strange man, a peasant, I believe, who states that he has important news to tell thee, and thee alone," which when the king heard, and had seen the peasant, he said to his mother, "Lo! now, this is the very man I saw in my dream, who told me such wonderful news." Then turning eagerly to the peasant, he said to him, " Speak, man, what is it thou hast to say to me ? " " king," he replied, " I may not speak except to thee and thy mother, for so have I been commanded." Then Ma'anda impatiently commanded the Katekiro to retire and, that they might not be disturbed, to set a guard at the outer gate, so that on no account either man, woman, or child might enter the inner couit. When they were quite alone, the peasant began to unfold to Ma'anda his story from the beginning to the end, just as it is told here, concluding with the ■:^.,'!'i' .l^ri THE LEGEND OF THE BLAMELESS PRIEST. 355 old man's words : '* Bid the king come with his mother and thyself, and, mark me, not even his dog must follow him." On hearing this news, Ma'anda said, " Come, Lt us eo, only us three, for so the? old man said," and taking his spear and shield the king strode out of the inner court through a private gate followed by his mother and the peasant, without communicating to a soul else vliither he was going. Despite this secrecy, however, it soon became pub- licly known that King Ma'anda and his mother had left the palace, accompanied by a peasant, and that they had taken the direction of the forest, towards which they had been seen travelling with rapid steps by one who communicated the information to the Katekiro. This news plunged the principal chief of the kingdom into a state of perplexity. He was for a moment at a loss wliat to do, for had his master desired any other company, he would undoubtedly have made it known, but, on the other hand, this conduct was inexplicable, and the king might have been lured by some cunning plausible tale to proceed in this manner, whereby he might be destroyed without detection. As the thought of treachery to the king flashed through his niind, he instantly resolved to follow him and watch after his safety, and should the peasant mean harm to him, he would be at hand, though un- suspected, to assist his master. He therefore seized his spear and shield, and sped away after the king in f-tealtliy pursuit. Soon he discovered the king, the lying's mother, and the peasant, and, slackening his steps, sought only to keep them in view, and to elude the quick, searching glances which he saw the king liequeutly dart behind him. They travelled in this manner all that day and half of the next day, when the VOL. I. 2 b 1875. October. Uganda. (■ :i 356 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. peasant informed the king that they were approacliin"' the appointed place. The king, to assure himself that they had not been followed by any one, looked keenly around once moie, and having satisfied himself that they were alone, lie commanded the peasant to move on and point out the meeting-»place. Gliding nnder the shadows of the dense grove surrounding the open space, they soon emerged from them, and were in front of the extra- ordinary assembly, who appeared to have preserved the same posture and attitude since the departure of the peasant on his errand to the king. As the three advanced nec,r the extremity of the rows of seated warriors, the old man on the throne asked the king, who was in advance, and gazing on tlio scene with the greatest astonishment, "Who art thou?' '* I am Ma'anda," he replied. "Art thou the king?" "lam." " And who is that woman with thee ? " the old man demanded, " My mother," the king answered. " It is well," said he ; " but how is it you did not observe what I commanded? Why came ye not alone ? " , " We have done exactly as we were told," said the king. " There are only my mother and this peasant with me, for no one knew of my departure." " But I have seen another man behind thee," persisted the old man. " Tell me who he is ? " " Rest assured," said Ma'anda, " there is no man save this peasant with me, for yesterday and to-day I looked several times behind me to make sure that i was not followed." " Who was the first king of Uganda ? " suddenly asked the old man. THE LEGEND OF THE BLAMELESS PltlEST. 357 "Kintu," answered Maanda. "Tliou sayest truly," said the old man slowly and deliberately; "and Kintu was good. He injured no man, beast, bird, or insect, and no living thing had cause to complain of him. He never even struck a man with a stick, or caused him pain in any manner, for he loved his children like a kind father should; but his sons grew exceedingly wicked, head- strong, disobedient, and utterly unmanageable. They loved to shed blood. They first slaughtered beasts, and became so accustomed to blood that at last they slew their brothers and sisters. They became so madly in love with blood that they wished to shed that of their good father Kintu. Then Kintu saw that Uganda was no more a land for him, that it was unfit for him to live in, and, oh ! when he looked on the face of the land at first, it was so fair and pure that it delighted his eyes, but when it became red and filthy with the blood of innocent men and women and children, it became hateful to Kintu, and lie departed from the horrid, cruel land. From Chwa down to Ma'anda each king has sought to find Kintu^ though in vain. Thou, Ma'anda, shalt see Kintu face to face, and thou shalt hear him speak ; but first I have somewhat to tell thee from him. Listen, and mark well his words — but tell me who was that man that followed thee hither ? " he suddenly asked. Ma'anda, well pleased that he of all his predecessors was selected to see and converse with Kintu, had become all attention, and every fibre and nerve quivered to hear the prelude to the introduction ; but when interrogated by the old man again upon a subject already satisfactorily answered, he asked impatiently, "Wliy dost thou ask again when I have already told thee that no man followed me here, because no man could have known whither I went ? " 2 B 2 1875. Octobei*. Uganda. i r>58 TUROUOH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. " But I," said the old man calmly, ** saw a man follow thee step by step. Why didst thou let him come. when I expressly told thee thou must come only with thy mother and this peasant ? " The king's mother and the peasant declared tliat Ma'anda had spoken truly, and that no man followed them. " I saw him behind that tree listening. Behold ! there he stands," said the old man, suddenly poiiitin"" to the Katekiro, who, perceiving that he was dis- covered, now came forward. The three turned their eyes on hearing tlie words of the old man, and at the sight of the Katekiro, ^la'anda grew desperately enraged, and with passionate fury he seized his spear, launched it, and pierced his faitliful servant through the heart, who, with a short sharp shriek, fell dead at his feet. But, lo! when King Ma'anda and his companions turned to discover what effect this scene had upon the old man and the seated warriors, they found that they had vanished, and that not even the slightest trace of them was left; at which the three stared at one another in the wildest astonishment. Then the king, recovering from his surprise, fell upon the ground and wept aloud, calling upon the name of Kintu ; and the king's mother and the peasant added their cries to his, and wept as if their hearts would break. But no blood-hating Kintu anewered to them, only the tall deep woods echoed their cries, " Kintu, Kintu-u, Kintu-u-u-u," as if in mockery of their sorrow. All night they kept watch, breaking out now and then into moaning and wailings for the last loss of the great father of Uganda. But Kintu, after this scene, never more appeared in Uganda, and to this day he has not been seen or heard of by any man. After Ma'anda's death succeeded Msano'i, Naraii^iara, WAKINGUIiU, THE CHAMPION. 359 and CliaLagu. In the time of this latter king flourished Wakiiiguru, a hero, whose name history, cherished witliin the memories of admiring men, has preserved fur his unparalleled deeds. "When Chabagu invaded I'sorrn, it appears that the Wasoga were very numerous ;iii(l, having as yet never been reduced to submission bv the Waganda, very bold and fearless. The people nf Usoga mocked the victorious Waganda until Cha- Infru was roused to declare war upon them ; and to slidw tliem the prowess of the people ^^'hom they had so insolently defied, Chabagu permitted Wakinguru to cross over toJinja alone, that he miglit exhibit the warlike qualities of his nation in his own person. Wakinguru, we are led to believe, was a man of herculean frame, and we may well suppose him gifted with more than common courage. He marched to the height of Jinja with a large bundle of spears on his back, and his shield was so ample and thick that it required two ordinary men to lift it. Arriving at a place where he could command a clear view of the "Wasoga camp, he shouted out a bold challenge to any man, or to all at once, to approach him, that he might show them what manner of men were those who had been so frequently insulted by them. Several of the "Wasoga, responding to the challenge, rushed up to try his mettle, but Wakinguru's spears were so formidable, and his strength so great, that long before any of the foe came within distance permitting an ordinary man to launch his spear, they were all dead men. The hero then plucked his spears from the corpses, and prepared to meet the next party, who came up in hot haste to avenge the deaths of their friends. Again the redoubtable man launched his fatal spears, and again the "Wasoga had to lament the deaths of their champions. Enraged by this, the "Wasoga at length advanced in 1875. October. Uganda* . ' 1,4. SCO Tniiouon the dark continent. 1875. Ortober. Ugauda. a body, and formed a large circle round him; but Wakinguru only laughed at this manoeuvre, and con- tinued remorKselessly slaying, launching his wliirrjiio- lengthy shafts with the most deadly efiect ; and tlien, picking up the spears of his enemies, with whicli tlie ground near him was plentifully strewn, he returned their own weapons to them, launching them with the swiftness and certainty of arrows. His strength sus- tained him in this unequal contest from sunrise to sunset, when it was discovered that Wakinguru Imcl slain GOO men with his own hand ! At night he crossed Jinja (or the Falls) to Ugungu unharmed, where ho refreshed himself with the bananas and milk and water of Uganda, and where he received the warmest con- gratulations from King Chabagu and his army. Next morning Wakinguru renewed the battle, and it continued throughout the whole of the second day, during which time the hero slew a similar number; and on the third day also he fought with the same success, until at last the Wasoga confessed that they w^ere unable to meet him. Then King Chabagu crossed the water above Jinja (Napoleon Channel), and completed the conquest of Usoga. After Chabagu succeeded Junju, Waseje, and Kamanya. This last king, grandfather of the pre- sent monarch, is remembered for his victories over tlie Wakedi, a most ferocious and warlike people occupying a country north of Usoga. The Wakedi, it is said, wore armour, and employed in their wars an immense number of great dogs, as large as young lions. Besides, the country of the Wakedi was surrounded by broad rivers or small lakes,* and these several advantages had made the Wakedi rather feared by the Wagauda, * I have been struck at the frequent geographical hints tlu-own out by Sabadu. THE CONQUEST OF THE WAKED I. 361 Hut vexed by the repeated forays made by them into the very heart of his country, and the impunity with which tliey carried them, Kamanya determined to pro- secute a war against them until one side or the other should ho declared beyond doubt the stronger. For this purpose he assembled his chiefs, and, having stated the advantages of situation whicli Ukedi enjoyed ii'^aiust attack, commanded them to advise him as to the uie.ins and ways of conducting the campaign. Sti Ululated by large rewards, the chiefs proposed various tactics for retaliating upon the enemy ; but it was tlie plan of the grandfather of Sabadu the his- torian that was deemed the best. This person advised Katnauya to command 100 canoes to proceed by water to Jinja, wliere they miglit be taken to pieces and con- veyed overland through Usoga to the Nagombwa river,* whence, after reconstruction, they could proceed to attack the Wakedi in the rear, while the king himself could proceed with his army to Urondogani, along the western bank of the Victoria Nile, and menace Ukedi from that side. This wise counsel was loudly applauded and at once adopted, the charge of the canoes being given to Sabadu's grandfather himself. The Wakedi, as might be imagined, attacked in such an unlooked-for direction, were greatly surprised and iliscouraged. They fled for refuge to tl^ir fenced villages, leaving their cattle in the hands of the ^Vaganda, who drove them across the Nagombwa to Usoga. The vengeance of the Waganda not being yet complete, they proceeded to attack the Wakedi in their fenced vilhiu*e^, using red-hot arrows wrapped in bark cloth, by which the straw huts were set on fire, and the inhabitants driven out to meet the spears of the Knganda. Aiiotlier geographical hint, which has been vorifierl by investiga- tiou. I have no doubt the Nagombwa will turn out to be the Asua. IS?.-*. October. UgiDida* m 3G2 THIiOUOE TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. Perceiving that the presence of Kamanya on the opposite bank of the Nile was only a ruse, the Wakedi concentrated their forces to drive the Waganda wlio had come by way of the Nagombwa out of the country. When the two nations met, a desperate battle ensued, rather to the disadvantage of the Waganda, for the enemy wore iron armour, which their spears could not penetrate. After consnltation, it was decided by the Waganda that at the next battle they would not waste their time in launching their spears, but would rush on the foe with naked hands and capture and bind them. Having received large reinforcements, the Waganda resumed the battle, but instead of throwing their spears they simply defended their bodies with their shields, and rushing on their encumbered adversaries, seized and bound them with cords. Perceiving that affairs were becoming desperate for them, the Wakedi mus- tered all their war-hoimds, which, while the Waganda were engaged with their masters, rushed upon tliem from all sides, with their large mouths wide open, barking tremendously, and bit and tore them in such a manner that the Waganda became stricken with panic, and fled to their canoes. The hounds, with their fury unappeased, rushed after the canoes into the water, where an immense number of them were easily slaughtered by the Waganda, whose senses, it appears, were by this time collected. Fearing that they would lose all their faithful war-hounds, the Wakedi recalled their dogs, paid tribute, and acknowledged tlio superiority and supremacy of the Waganda, and to this day the Wakedi have been true to their allegiance. As we arrive nearer our own times, the history of Uganda becomes, of course, more precise and trust- worthy. Thus, when we come to Suna II., the son ot Kamanya, and predecessor and father of Mtesa, we aie BUNA, THE CRUEL, 363 told tliat he was about sixteen years of age when he succeeded to his father, and about forty when he died, and that he reigned, therefore, twenty-four years. As Mtesa ascended the throne in his nineteenth year, and as he iiaB already reigned fifteen years (up to 1875), Sunamust have been born in 1820, begun to reign in 1836, and died in 1860. Suna, so his intimate friends still alive told me, was sliort of stature and of very compact built, most des- potic and cruel, but brave and warlike. He had a peculiar habit, it is said, of sitting with his head bent low, seldoml ooking up. His attitude seemed to be that of one intently tracing designs on the ground, though in reality he was keenly alive to all that was transpiring around him. He frequently beheaded his people by hundreds. It is reported that one day he executed 800 people of Uganda for a single crime committed. Other punishments which he inflicted were dreadful, such as gouging out eyes, and slitting ears, noses, and lips. It is said that he so seldom lifted his eyes from the ground that whenever he did look up at a person, the executioners, called " Lords of the Cord," understood it as a sign of condemnation. Any messenger arriving with news was compelled to crawl on his knees, and in this position to whisper it into the king's ears. Whenever he passed along a path, the announcement ** Suna is coming " sufficed to send the people flying in a panic from the neigh- bourhood. To strangers from other countries he was most liberal and hospitable, and many Arab traders have had cause to bless the good fortune that conducted them to Uganda in the days of Suna. ibis Emperor, or Kabaka, as the rulers of Uganda, filter their vast conquests, were styled, was also exceed- %\y fond of dogs. For the sustenance of one of his 1875. October, Uganda. ' ' ' I 364 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Usanda. pets he caused an entire district to be cultivated and planted with the sweet potato, which was its favourite diet ; and when it died, he caused each chief to con- tribute bark-cloths for its burial. He also kept a lion and a leopard, and anotlier animal which, from its description, I take to have been either a species of wolf or lynx ; the two former became quite tame, but the latter was so incorrigibly fierce that he finally ordered it to be destroyed. From such a disposition as that of Suna, it was natural that he should engage in frequent wars, and from his determined and resolute character we cannot be surprised to hear that they were most bloody and terrible. He conquered Ankori, overran Unyoro and Usoga, and was the first to conquer the united nations of Uzongora. The lion-hearted Wavuma owned him as their liege lord ; even distant Ruanda heard of his name, tried him in battle, and became convinced of his greatness. The details of the two last wars in which Suna was engaged I have collected, and present tliem here, as told by Sabadu, from which the reader may perceive for himself the character of this monarch and the general nature of wars in Central Africa. Suna heard that Usoga had rebelled and refused to pay tribute to him, whereupon, after rendering homage and dues to the Muzimu, or spirits,* he levied a vast army and marched to Jinja, or the rocks overk)oking the Ripon Falls, where he rested four days. The! Wasoga, upon Suna*s advance, fled to Kitenteb Island (situate in the channel between Uvuma and Usoga,! about seven miles from Nakaranga Cape). On tliisj island the Wasoga placed their women and children, ♦ I havo ohscrvcd that Sabadu's narrative contains many iiitorr'tiiii; etlinol')giciil facts. Perliaps tlie reader needs to be infonuetl tlmt Ij stenoiJtraplied Sabadu's story as he related it to me bclbro my w^PJ fii'e at Nakaranga. - THE REVOLT OF THE WASOGA. 3G5 and large herds of cattle, and it was evident from the measures they adopted that they intended to make a de^'pt'rate and prolonged resistance. xVfter marching through Usoga, he camped on the mainland, about half a mile from Kitenteh Island. The Wavuma, responding to his command iv' muster their Cannes for the war, supplied him witi' over 100, manned by natives of Uziri, Wema, and Kibibi ; Lulamba, Irwaji, and Sesse Islands supplied him with 200; while from the Uganda coast he obtained 200 more; so that, in all, Suna had 500 canoes for the war. Uso,i2;a, an extensive country of itself, did its best to meet the monarch of Uganda with a large and powerful fleet, and, assisted by its islands, Namungi and Ne3^gano, as also by Usuguru, Chaga, Muiwanda, find Ugana, was able to match Suna's fleet, canoe for canoe. But the spirit which animated the warriors of the two nations differed greatly. On the one side was the Jetermination to win freedom ; on the other a monarch resolved to retain in subjection, but lacking people to meet the Wasoga on the water, and only able to compel his warriors to fight at all on that element by the most horrible threats and the inspiration of terror. I Having assembled his fleet, Suna ordered the assault ; but the Wasoga met the Waganaa in the channel, and I after a desperate battle drove the Waganda in preci- pitate retreat to the mainland. For the period of a month repeated efforts were made to effect a landing on the island, but the Wasoga, with great spirit and Iravery, repelled the Waganda with severe loss. The M^asoga also, adding insult to injury, were accustomed I to approach the mainland and taunt the king with ter words, telling him to seek the graves of Kaguru pnd Kamanya, and bury himself there for very shame.* ' In almost exactly the same manner tho Wavuma daily taunted 1875. October. Ugauda. ' vVt 366 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875, October. Uganda. At length, enraged by these taunts, Suna called hig chiefs to him, and in assembly assailed them with bitter reproaches, asking them if he was not the Emperor, and if Emperor, why the Wasoga were per- mitted to taunt him, and stung to frenzy by the memory of the insults lately received, commanded his chiefs to man their canoes on the morrow and assault the island, threatening them, if they failed, with roast- ing, decapitation, and utter destruction. The chiefs prostrated themselves one after another, and swore to set their feet on Kitenteh Island the next day. The morrow came, and each chief was in his canoe with his most chosen warriors. The battle ensued, but only four chiefs were true to their promise — the Katekiro, Namujurilwa (Majwara's father *), and | two others of equal bravery and eminence. The Katekiro on landing killed two with his spear at one thrust, so great was the throng of Wasoga who rushed j against him. Namujurilwa's spear was plungel throiigli i three at a time, but unable to draw his weaj )n out, he i was attacked by a Msoga, who with his javelin pinned both his arms, and he was only saved by a rush of his own men, who bore him away to his canoe. The two other chiefs slew two men each, and were obliged to retire, being unsupported by their people. Many other chiefs distinguished themselves, and many died] fighting in the attempt to land on the island. The Wasoga had formed themselves into four ranks! on this day. The first comprised the slingers, and tlie] second the spearmen, the third, on higher ground, slingers again, and the fourth a reserve of spearmen, for the final and supreme struggle. For three successive days the chiefs of Uganda ledj in person the Waganda to the assault, until finally tliej ♦ Majwara is the little boy who alone watched the last hours of| Dr. Livingstone. THE CAPITULATION^ 0.7 KITENTEH ISLAND. 367 queen's father requested Suna not to sacrifice all his <;hiefs white the peasants were standing idle spectators. jiina yielded to his request, and perceiving that bravery was of no avail against the desperate Wasoga, he adopted the plan of surrounding the island day and night with his canoes, and starving the rebels into submission. What food the unfortunate "Wasoga were able to obtain was inadequate for their wants, and cost them much trouble and many lives, both on shore, in distant parts of the coast, and in the channel, for Suna liad constructed large camps along the coast of Usoga, and his canoes kept strict watch and ward over Kitenteh Island. For two months the Wasoga endured this state of tilings, but at the end of that period, being reduced to the verge of absolute starvation, four of their chiefs approached the camp of Suna with offers of submission. Suna refused to see them, but gave them thirty head of cattle to convey to the island, with a request to the chiefs to eat, and think well first of what they offered, promising that, if on the fourth day they were still of the same mind, he would be willing to talk with them. At the end of the fourth day twenty chiefs came I over from Kitenteh Island, stating that they were willing to submit to Suna, to pay tribute, and to render Service. He received them graciously, and ordered tliem to commence the next day, with the assistance of his own canoes, .the transportation of the Wasoga to his camp, in order that they might all render their sub- Iniission to him. For three days, it is said, the Waganda and Wasoga kanoes were engaged in this service, and as fast as the l^asoga arrived they were conducted to a large stockade erected expressly for them during the night H the surrender. On the fourth day, his late enemies being all in his camp, surrounded by his own people, he 1875. October. Ugauda. ail 3G8 TnitOUGn TUE BARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. called their chiefs and told them he would he gratified if they and their warriors would perform their war- dance before him next day. Unsuspecting evil, tbev wilHngly promised. Suna after their departure to the stockade instructed the Waganda chiefs to bring all their people, carlv next morning, each man supplied with a cord, and to form them in two ranks four deep, and when he gave the signal, to fall upon the Wasoga and bind them. On the morning of the fifth day the Waganda were all drawn up as instructed, and the Wasoga, seeing notliiug in this but Suna's desire of showing his power and pomp, and without the least idea what this war-dance portended to them, marched within the fatal lines, armed only with sticks, as had been agreed — upon tlie cunning plea that the Waganda might take offence at seeing them play with edged weapons before Suna. They were the more completely thrown off their guard by the kindness shown to them by the Emperor and by the liberal supplies of cattle and bananas supplied to them since their surrender. We can imagine how the unhappy Wasoga advanced smiling into Suna's presence on this great day, and how, wishing to please the fearful despot, they danced to the best of their power. But on a sudden, while they were exerting their voices (30,000 is the number given) into a grand swelling chorus at the triumplial finale of the fictitious war which they had been repre- senting, Suna gave the signal, and 100,000 Waganda warriors fell upon them, and despite their fearful, desperate struggles — when all too late the treacberv of Suna became apparent — ^^bound them hand and foot. Out of this immense number of prisoners, sixty of the principal chiefs were selected and placed before Suna, who saiil to them : — " For three months you have kept rr«, und my people waiting for your submission; you )*'«"T'l BUNA'S BEVENQE. 369 rebelled against my authority, and attempted to throw off your allegiance ; you have slain more than half of my principal chiefs, and you have vexed me with taunts, telling me to go and seek the graves of Kaguru and Kamanya, and to hide myself there for shame. You have mocked me — me ! who am called Suna — Suna, the Emperor (Kahakd), I go to my grave by and by, but by the grave of my father Kamanya you shall die to-day, and you may tell your fathers that Suna the Emperor sent you to them." Then turning to the Waganda, he fiercely shouted, "Cut them to little pieces, and pile their remains on the plain without the camp." As Suna commanded, so was it done, and the Waganda were employed on this monstrous work for five days, for they obeyed his com- mand literally, and, beginning at the legs and arms, hacked their victims to pieces without taking the trouble to despatch them first. Usoga, upon hearing of this terrible deed, sent all its principal men and chiefs to implore pardon and profi*er submission and allegiance, which Suna was pleased to accept. This event closed the war, and Suna returned to his palace in Uganda with a train of 5000 female captives and 8000 children. Soon after his return to Uganda the "VVasoga rebelled a second time under the leadership of Rura, chief of Nakaranga, upon hearing which Suna smiled grimly and said, " Rura has taken much time to make up his mind ; since he has waited so long let him wait a little longer, and I will show him who his master is." Aleantime Namujurilwa, chief of Uddu, after re- turning to visit his home, heard that his neighbour the king of Ankori or Usagara was preparing to invade his country with a mighty force. Ever prompt lor mischief and war, Namujurilwa did not wait to meet the Wasagara on his own soil, but beat his war- 1875. October. Ugandu. aM ^ '■'- ■ \ "■ y. "^4' : m '■-' « his cano nocturnal i of poles can guide two apart- ^ht canes, ^asant cau entering. , round tiie Over the ved a few asant com- ;s. ;he utensils Under the rved stools the latter, *ew wicker ew spears, .t; of hoes, iffh for the inventory wo huts of urts, where at work. o 3 % u Oi a •^^ e\ n •* la ard, pounced upon purblind Pokino, whom he quickly deprived of life, land, and name, and in place of their former owner became their master. But with even old Pokino's vast estates and large possessions the young Pokino was apparently discontented. Shortly afterwards the Emperor commanded him to '* eat up " Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda, and it is to young Pokino's thirst for power and riches that Majwara, an infant son of that great chief, became a slave to Njara of Unyanyembe, from whom I pur- chased his freedom in 1871. I afterwards sent him to Livingstone, to whom young Majwara ministered faithful service until that great traveller's death. With the fall of Namujurilwa, young Pokino became Lord of aU Uddu, from the Katonga valley to the Alexandra Nile, a district embracing over 300Q square miles, with twenty sub-chiefs recognizing him as their master, possessing two great capitals, Namuju- rilwa's at Masaka, and Pokino's, hundreds of women- slaves, and thousands of youthful slaves of both sexes, with cattle also by the thousand, and chief of a popu- lation numbering over 100,000. What a change this —from the keeper of the lavatory to the Lord of Uddu ! Pokino's life at his capital of Uddu, Masaka, is almost regal. He has '* eaten up " the lands of two 2 D 2 1875. October. Uganda. 390 TEROUGE TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. great chiefs, old Pokino and the h'on-like Namnjurilwa and now out of the eater cometh forth meat, and out of the strong cometh fox^th sweetness. His siib-reiral court is crowded with applicants and claimants for bounties, and slaves requiring to be fed, and good offices are given with a liberal hand, and cattle are slaughtered by hundreds until Pokino's open hand and large heart is published throughout Uganda. By this politic liberality he secures the affection of tlie natives of Uddu, the fiiendship of the great chiefs at the court, and the approbation of the Emperor. Is Pokino satisfied ? Not yet, for there remains one more office which Mtesa can give ; but he must wait a while for this. The Emperor hears there is a country called Usongorn, west of Gambaragara* somewhere, rich in vast herds of cattle, and he commands Pokino to go and gatlier some of them. Immediately the great war-drum of ]\Iasaka sounds the call to war, and the natives from the banks of the Alexandra Nile, the slopes of Koki plateau, and all the lake shore from the Alexandra to the Katonf^a respond to it by thousands, for it is a call to tlieni to gather spoil, and when did a peasant of Uganda linger at such a summons ? When Pokino begins his journey, he discovers he lias a vast army at his command, for other chiefs also aie represented here by columns. Kitunzi of the Katoniia valley has sent Sambuzi, and Mkwenda, Kangau, and Kimbugwd have also sent sub-chiefs with hundreds of warriors. Before Pokino's great army the people of Gambaragara retire up the slopes of their lofty snow mountain, and, pursuing them as far as prudence will permit, Pokino's eyes view from afar the resiling grassy plateau of Usongora, and an immense lake stretching beyond, which he is told is Muta Nzige'. * This part of Pokino's history was related to me by Pokino himself, Kitunzi, Sambuzi, and his page. LIFE AND MANNERS IN UGANDA. 391 Descending from the slopes of the snow mountain, he marches with incredible speed to Usongora, sweeps in with long' sure arms large herds of cattle, despite the frantically brave natives, collects thousands of straight- nosed, thin-lipped, and comely women and children, and drives them towards Uganda. Several difficulties present themselves in the way. The plain of Usongora is covered with salt and alkali, which, intemperately eaten, causes many deaths ; and in the valleys spout up mud-springs, and from the summits of conical hills strange fire and smoke issue, and now and then the very earth utters a rumbling soimd, and appears to shake. The Wanyoro, also, by thousands, combine with the natives of Gambaragara to dispute his return. They lay ambuscades for him, and obstinately harass him night and day. But Pokino's spirit is up in arms. He defies the supernatural noises of that Land of Wonders, Usongora, and by skill and sagacity avoids the meshes laid to entrap him, and, when opportunity affords, enares his ambushed enemies and annihilates them, and finally appears in Uganda at the imperial capital with a spoil of cattle and slaves fit to gladden even the imperial heart. The Emperor appoints a day to receive him and his warriors, and, that meed may be given only to the hrave, has caused to be brewed immense potfuls of ])otent pombe', which shall serve as a test to point out the brave and the coward. The day arrives. The Emperor is seated in unusual state, with his harem behind him, his chiefs on either hand in order of rank, his musketeers on guard, and his drummers and musicians close by, while aloft wave the crimson-and-white-barred standards adopted by the empire. Before the Emperor are arranged liie pots of test-beer. 1875. October. Ugaadiw f 392 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. Pokino advances, prostrates himself in the dust, and begins to relate his adventures and his doings in Usongora, while the heroes of the great raid are enmassed in view ai^I within hearing of his words. After the conclusion of the story, the Emperor says briefly, " Drink, if thou darest." Pokino rises, advances to the test-pots, receives the ladle, and dips it into the pombe ; then taking it up, he holds it aloft, and, turning to the warriors who followed him, cries aloud, " Tekeh ? " (" Am I worthy or not ? ") " Tekeh ! " (" Thou art worthy ! ") responds the multitude with a shout. Again he asks " Tekeh ? " and again " Tekeh ! " is shouted with renewed acclamation, and, being found worthy, he drinks, utters his grateful Twiyanzis to the Emperor, and retires to permit others to advaroe aiid drink the test-beer. Those found worthy are rewarded, those unworthy are doomed to death by popular condemnation. Soon after this, Myanja, the Katekiro, was found guilty of the overweening pride of appropriating to himself the most beautiful of the female slaves without regarding his master's right to select his allotment first, and the result of i-his was that Myanja was dis- graced and shortly beheaded. The Premier's place being now vacant, Pokino was appointed to fill it ; and thus was the once humble Magassa elevated to be next in power to the Emperor, with tlie utmost of his ambition fulfilled. He is now daily seated on the carpet at the right hand of his sovereign, controls all things, commands all men, and, when leaving the presence of his master, he is escorted by all the chiefs to his own quarters, waylaid by multitudes on the ro;ul with profound greeting, has the pick of all femille^ captured in war, the choicest of all cattle, and his shares of all cloths, beads, wine, and lust, and )ings in raid are 3rds. iror says eives the it lip, lie followed r not?") nds tlie ^eh ! " is ig found sis to the irce and 'ewarded, popular s found ating to without lUotment was dis- Iv mo was hiimhle mperor, le right lands all aster, he wayhiiJ ting, has loicest of rinCj and other gifts Pokino, alii Secretary c One day, liim to exai the various surprise, w wish to liav Poor Ma^ ah'eady wat vigour of ni the Lord of It is left interview w The curta, tall conical 1: of plantains Up the hill smooth aver which cluste; amid the veri avenues are costumes. T strong contr wending the summit of t: they crowd a ^g morning Suddenly t rumbling rol ! that the mon; «re at once ! Boldie: rs. peas LIFE AND MANNERS IN UGANDA. 393 other gifts brought to Mtesa ; for the Katekiro, alias Pokino, alias Magassa, is now Premier, First Lord, and Secretary of State ! But what next ? One day, while on a visit to my quarters, I permitted him to examine my store of medicines. On explaining the various uses of laudanum, he remarked, to my surprise, with a sigh, " Ah ! that is the medicine I wish to luive. Can you not spare some for me ?" Poor Magassa ! poor Pokino ! poor Katekiro ! He is aheady watching, while yet young, in the prime and vigour '^f manhood, for he knoweth not the hour when the Lord of the Cord may beckon to him. It is left for some future traveller to tell us of his interview with Kasuju, the chief executioner. THE KABAKA OR EMPEROR. The curtain rolls up, and discloses a hill covered with tall conical huts, whose tops peep out above the foliage of plantains and bananas, and lofty fences of cane. Up the hill's gradually ascending slopes run broad smooth avenues, flanked by cane palisades, behind which clusters of huts show grey under a blazing sun, amid the verdure of the leafy groves around them. The avenues are thronged by natives, clad in picturesque costumes. White clothes gleam in the sunshine, in strong contrast to red and brown. The people are wending their way to the imperial quarters on the summit of the hill. While no ingress is permitted, they crowd around the gates in social gossip, exchang- ing morning greetings. Suddenly the murmur of voices ceases, and the long rumbling roll of a kettle-drum is heard, announcing that the monarch is seated on the burzah. The gates are at once drawn aside, and a multitude of cliiefs, soldiers, peasants, strangers rush up tumultuously^ 1875. October. Uganda. 394 TUBOuan the dabk continent. 1875. October. Ugaada. through eight or ten courts, towards the audience-hall and in their noisy haste we may see the first symptoms of that fawning servility characteristic of those who serve despots. The next scene we have is a section of a straw house, with a gable-roof— about 25 feet high, GO feet long, and 1 8 feet in breadth. At the farther end, by the light afforded by the wide entrance, we perceive the figure of a man clad in an embroidered scarlet jacket and white skirt seated on a chair, guarded on either side hy a C()U[)le of spearmen and two men bearing muskets. The chiefs and principal men now hastening throngli the gates bow profoundly before him ; some, after the Muslim's custom, kiss the palms and back of his right hand ; others, adhering to the original customs of the country, prostrate themselves to the ground, and, throwing their hands towards him, exclaim, while kneeling, " Twiyanzi, yanzi ! " after which they severally betake themselves to their respective seats in order of rank. Two long rows of seated men are thus formed along the caned walls of the hall of audience, facing towards the centre, which is left vacant for the advent of strangers and claimants, and the transaction of business, justice, &c. Being privileged, we also enter, and take a seat on the right-hand side, near the Katekiro, whence we can scrutinize the monarch at our leisure. The features, smooth, polished, and without a wrinkle, are of a young man, who might be of any age between twenty-five and thirty-five. His head is clean-sliaven and covered with a fez, his feet are bare and rest on a leopard-skin, on the edge of which rests a polished white tusk of ivory, and near this are a pairj of crimson Turkish slippers. The long fingers of his right hand giasp a gold-hilted Arab scimitar; tliej left is extended over his left knee, reminding one of LIFE AND MANXEnS IX UGANDA. H05 tji the posture of Eameses at TlieLes. The only natural peculiarities of tlie face, causing it to diiTer from otlicr ikes around me, are tlie glowi-ng, restless large eyes, ^liich seem to take in everything at a glance. Tlie dmracter of the face, however, is seen to change rapidly; even in repose it lacks neither dignity nor power, hut as cross thoughts flash through his nn'nd the corners of the lips are drawn in, the eyes expand, the eyeballs project, his hands twitch nervously, and the 1875, Ootober. Uganda. -if rip AUDIEKCB HALL OF THE PALACE. native courtier begins to apprehend a volcanic outburst of rage. If pleased, however, the eyes appear to recede and contract, the lips relax their vigour, and soon a hearty laugh rings through the hall. But hush ! here advance some ten or twelve people iilong the centre, and prostrate themselves before the Emperor, and begin through a spokesman to tell him of something to which, strangely enough, he does not seem to listen. By means of an interpreter we are informed that it is 39G TEEOUQE TEE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. an embassy from the lawless bandit Mirambo, who, bear- ing that Mtesa was likely enough to send some 50.000 sharp spears to hunt him up, has sent these men with propitiating gifts, and a humble declaration tliat he has no cause of quarrel with Uganda. The gifts are unrolled to view and counted. So many cloths, so much wire, st^me half-dozen dinner plates of European make, an ample brass coffee tray, an JVrab dagger Bilver-hilted, and a scarlet coat. Mtesa has been meanwhile carelessly talking to his chiefs while the embassy addressed him, but suddenly he turns on the embassy his large glowing eyes, and speaks quickly and with decision : — " Tell Mirambo from me that I do not want his gifts, but I must have the head of his man who slew my chief Singiri a year ago, as he was returning from Zanzibar to Uganda, or I will hunt him up with more Waganda than there are trees in his country. Go ! " Another party now comes up. A chief is dead, and they wish to know who shall succeed him, and they have brought his sons along with them, that tlie Emperor may make his choice. Mtesa smiles and asks his chiefs to name the suc- cessor. One names Bugomba, another Taniziwa, another Kaseje, another Sempa. The chiefs fail to agree, and Mtesa asks playfully, " Which shall be chief ? " where- upon the majority name Taniziwa as elected, after which we have to hear the " Twiyanzis " of the favoured one, and his ardent vows of allegiance to the Emperor. Just at this moment appears a long procession of females, old and young, at. the sight of whom the Emperor rises to his feet, and his example is followed by all. Curious to know who they are, we ask, ami are told that they are descendants of Kamanya and Suna, wards and members of ihe imperial family. These ladies, it appears, know when to time their visits, .ir% LIFE AND MANNERS IN UGANDA, 397 and contrive to enter the levee late, as European ladies, to attract attention, are supposed to enter clmrcli late. As these ladies advance to the carpet, Mtesa greets each with a kind word, and after the; are seated proceeds to them, seats himself in their .aps, and 'em- iraces one after another. In return for these imperial courtesies, thej afterwards present him with live fowls, which he is compelled to receive with his own hands, and pass over to a chief to hold, that he may not appear to despise any of them. Surely if such a despotic monarch can condescend to be so affable and kind to females, there .lU-t be some good in him. But the Emperor en th.^ morning has caught a cold, and the watchful chiefs have been observing the little uneasiness, and forth . dth half a dozen rush forward prone on their kiif ^s, and offer their head-cloths, into which the imperial nose may relieve itself. The Emperor playfully draws back in his chair, and says, "Oh, I don't want all these." " Well, take mine," says one. " No, take mine, Kabaka ; mine is white, and of fine soft cloth," and Mtesa, prevailed upon by the whiteness and softness of the texture, takes it, and relieves his afflicted nose, and then hands the cloth back to its owner, who rubs it together hard, as though he wished to punish well the cause of the affliction. Suddenly from some place in the hall is heard a hawking sound, as from some one likewise afflicted w.'th a cold in the throat, and the eyes o'' the Emperor are quickly fixed on the person ; but the chiefs cry out iudigiiantly, " Out, out with you, quick !" and, peremp- t'rily and sternly, half a dozen " lords of the cord " seize upon the unfortunate and eject him in no gentle manner. After tliis interruption the tones of the native harp are heard, and the Emperor calls to the minstrel and l^ids him play on his instrument, which the accom- 1875. October. Uganda. » » 898 TEEOUan TEE DABK CONTINENT, 1875. October. Uganda* pHshed musician is nothing loth to do. But while wo listen to the monotonous music, all are startled at the loud report of a gun ! A dozen ejaculations are uttered, and as many cliiefs rush out to enquire the cause ; but they have been fore- stalled by the adroit and eager lords of the cord, who have thrown their nooses round the man's neck and, half strangling him, drag him into the Presence, whose imperial nerves have been somewhat disturbed by the sudden discharge of gunpowder. The lords of tlie cord, kneeling, say that the man let his gun fall wliile on guard, and their eyes seem to ask, " What shall we do to him?'* "Give him fifty blows with a stick," cries the angry Emperjr, and the unfortunate fellow is hauled away to receive such a punishment as will lame him for a month. There is now heard a lowing of cattle, of fat beeves and milch-cows, in the court before the audience-hall, and a man advances, and after prostration and " Twi- yanzis " says he has brought a present from Mankorongo, king of Usui. ' ' ■ " "H'm. See to them, Katekiro, and give one to my steward Ka-uta to dress up, and let each chief have an ox to-day, and give ten to my bodyguard." At this liberality all the chiefs rush forward, abase themselves in the dust, and cry aloud their fervid " Twiyanzis." The chiefs resume their seats after this exhibition of their gratitude, and a messenger arrives from the banks of the Yictoria Nile, and relates, to the monarch's sur- prise, that Namionju, a petty prince near Unyoro, has cast off his allegiance to him, and opened negotiations with Kabba Kega, king of Unyoro. On hearing the messenger's news, the Emperor exclaims, his eyes expanding widely, and projecting, ** What ! are all my people dead at Nakaranga ? Have I no chief, no people left, that Namionju treats me so ?" LIFE AND MANNERS IN UGANDA. 89a The answer is heard in the voices of the chiefs, who goring to their feet simultaneously and rush out before the entrance of the audience-hall, seize their spears or walking-sticks, and call aloud on the Emperor to behold and number his chiefs, and with wild impressive gestures toss their spears and arms on hio-h until a stranger would fancy that a revolution had suddenly begun. The Emperor, however, calmly answers, " It is well," upon which the chiefs leave tlioir spears without and regain their seats. Then casting his eyes about him, he selects a fiery- looking young chief — Maoor-ugungu by name — who instantly darts forward from his seat, and prostrating himself exclaims, " J^aiayba, I am here." "Go, Maoor-ugungu, take five Watongoleh and their men, and eat up Namionju and his country." Maoor-ugungu, prompt as tinder upon receiving such an order, utters many "Twiyanzis," then springs to his feet, and, seizing a couple of spears and a shield, throws himself into a heroic attitude with all the ardour of a true son of Mars, and cries aloud : — " Emperor, behold me ! The Emperor commands, and Namionju shall die, and I will gather the spoil. I will eat the land up clean. Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi- yanzi ! " and so on ad infinitum. The Emperor rises. Tori the drummer beats the long roll on his drum, and all the chiefs, courtiers, pages, claimants, messengers and strangers, start to their feei. The Emperor — without a word more — retires by a side door into the inner apartments, and the morning burzah is ended. Those curious to know further of the Emperor's life must pass through a multitude of sharp-eyed, jealously watchful guards, pages, and executioners, thronging the court of the audience-hall, into the private courts, many of which they will find apparently of no use 1875. October, Uganda. '* i.i 400 THEOUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October, Uganda. whatever except to ensure privacy, and to confuse a stranger. In one they may see Mtesa drilling his Amazons and playing at soldiers with his pets. They are all comely and brown, with fine virginal bosoms. But what strikes us most is the effect of discipline. Those timid and watchful eyes which they cast upon the monarch to discover his least wish prove that, though they may be devoted to him, it is evident that they have witnessed other scenes than those of love. In another court, perhaps, they may find Mtesa just sitting down to eat a slight noon meal, consisting of ripe bananas and curded milk ; or they may find him laughing and chatting with his favourite wives and female children, who all sit around him, seeming to govern their faces according to the despot's humour; or perhaps he may happen to be found with a favourite page examining the contents of the treasure-house, where the gifts of various travellers, European, Turkish, and Arabic, are stored ; or he may be engaged with Tori, his factotum, planning some novelty, in the shape of a waggon, carriage, ship, or boat, or what- ever the now fancy may be which has taken possession of his mind. . , . THE LAND. Having learned somewhat through these sketches of the character of the peasant, the chief, and th ' monarch, it now remains for us to take a view of the land in order to understand its extent, nature, and general aspect. ' The form of the Empire governed by Mtesa may he best described as a crescent. Its length is about 300 geographical miles, and itp breadth about 60, covering — with the islands of Sesse', Lulamba, Bufwe, Sadzi, Lulamha, Damba, Lukomeh, Iramba, Irwaji, Kiwa, on fuse a zons and 11 comely iut what ose timid monarch Jgh they hey have Itesa just sisting of find him rives and eming to I humour ; favourite ure-house, European, e eiigiiged ty, ill the or what- possessiou cetches of monarch, d in order aspect, sa may be :ihout 300 , covering kve, Sadzi, U^ Kiwa, IVema, Kibll square miles and Ankori, tribute to 1 must add a making the square miles. Some estin offjred. But roiig'h estima compile his fi, the number < enumerating his travels. Uganda propi Uildu .. Bwera .. Koki .. Usoga ., Ukedi .. Uuyoro . . Ustigara or A. Karagwo Usui Uzongoru, inc Scsse Island Uvuiua .. All other islai This nurabc square mile tl: The prodiK and, if brougl a ready mar] lion, leopard, * The wliite roi fioesilky huirfron MTESA'S EMFIBE. 401 Wema, Kibibi, Uziri, Wanzi, Urnma, Utamba, Mwama, tVeyeya, Usamu, and Namungi — an area of 30,000 square miles. If we reckon in also Unyoro, Ukedi, aud Ankori, which recognize Mtesa's power, and pay tribute to him, though somewhat irregularly, we must add a further area of 40,000 square miles, making the total extent of his empire about 70,000 g(|iiare miles. Some estimate of the population ought also to be off red. But it is to be understood that it is only a roii'»h estimate, made by a traveller who has had to compile his figures by merely taking into consideration the number of the army assembled at Nakaranga, and enumerating districts and villages along the line of his travels. Countries and Districts. Population, Ufranda proper (from Eipon Falls) to Katonga river .. 750,000 Uadu 100,000 V Bwera 30,000 Koki 70,000 Usoga 500,000 Ukedi ISO.OCO Uuyoro 500,000 Usagara or Ankori 200,000 Karagwo 150,000 Usui 80,000 Uzongora, including Iliangiro and Bumbireli .. .. 200,000 Sesse Island .. .. '. 20,000 Uvuiaa 15,000 All other islands 10,000 2,775,000 This number gives about thirty-eight persons to the square mile throughout the empire of Uganda. The productions of the laud are of great variety, and, if brought within reach of Europeans, would find a ready market — ivory, coffee, gums, resins, myrrh, lion, leopard, otter, and goat* skins, ox-hides, snow- * Tlio wliite goats of Usoga aro like the famous Angora goats with fine silky ha'r from 4 to 8 incho8 in length. 1875. October. Uganda. r 402 TEROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda, white monkey-skins, and bark cloth, besides fine cattle, sheep, and goats. Among tlie chief vegetable pro- ductions are the papaw, banana, plantain, yams, sweet potatoes, peas, several kinds of beans, melons, cucum- bers, vegetable marrow, manioc, and tomatoes. Of grains, there are to be found in the neighbouiliood of the capital wheat, rice, maize, sesamum, millets, and vetches. The soil of the lake coast region from the extremity of Usoga to the Alexandra Nile is of inexhaustible fertility. The forests are tall and dense, and the teak and Cottonwood, tamarind, and some of the gum-trees grow to an extraordinary height, while many of the lower uninhabited parts near the lake are remarkable for the density, luxuriance, and variety of their vege- tation. The higher land, for the most part devoid of trees and covered with grass, appears better ada})ted for pasture, though the plantain and fig trees fi()uri>]i on the summit of the hills with the same vigour as near the lake. Westward of the smooth, rolling, pastoral country which characterizes the interior of Usoga and Uganda, we observe that the land has lost its surface of })asture grass, and its gently undulating character, and beaves itself upwards into many-headed hills of rugged, abruiit forms, and as we penetrate farther, these hills become mountains of a stupendous type, with summits wliicli, except on a fine clear day, the naked eye cannot define. Deep, deep valleys, from whose depths we bear tlie roar of resounding cataracts and falls, sunder these lofty mountains. Upon their lengthy slopes gre:it masses of glistening white rock are seen half imbeJdal in de'bris, wliere they have remained since tbey wert^ eievered from the parent mountain which raises ils head so proudly into the sky above. Beyond th.s scene again we come to where the hiiiJ FItOM LAKE TO LAKE. 403 appears to have concentrated itself, and fused all lesser mountains and hills into one grand enormous mass, tilt height and size of which dwarfs all hitherto seen, and wliicli, disdaining vulgar observation, shrouds its her.d with snow and grey clouds. Indeed, so gradual is the transition and change in the aspect of the land from Lake Victoria to Beatrice Gulf that one may draw this one-hundred-miles- wide belt into five divisions of equal breadth, and class them according to the limits given above. Let us imagine a rnilway constructed to run from one lake to the other — what scenes unrivalled for soft beauty, luxuri- ance, fertility, and sublimity would be traversed ! Starting from the sea-like expanse of the Victoria Luke, the traveller would be ushered into the depths of a tall forest, whose meeting tops create eternal night, into leafy abysms, where the gigantic sycamore, tower- ing mvule', and branchy gum strive with one another for room, under whose shade wrestle with equal ardour for mastery the less ambitious trees, bushes, plants, llianes, creepers, and palms. Out of this he would emerge into broad day, with its dazzling sunshine, and view an open rolling country, smooth rounded hills, truncated cones, and bits of square browed plateaus, intersected by broad grassy meads and valleys thickly dotted with ant-hills overgrown with brushwood. Few trees are visible, and these, most likely, the candelabra or the tamarisk, with a sprinkling of acacia. As some olistructing cone would be passed, he would obtain glimpses of wide prospjects of hill, valley, mead, and plain, easy swells and hollows, grassy basins and g -issy eminences, the whole suftused with fervid vapour. These scenes passed, he would find himself surrounded by savage hills, where he would view the primitive rock ill hugo, bare, round-backed masses of a greyish blue VOL. I. 2 E 1875. October. '■ r 404 rimornrr rnF dajrk roA'r/:.7r^vr. 1875. October. Uganda. colour, irrrr'artea to tHom by moss and JicLenR, or large fragment.^ tlnng together as in some Cyclopean cairn, sundered and riven by warring elements. At their base lie, thickly strewn, the debris of (juartz- veined gneiss and. granite and iron-coloured voc-lr half choking the passage of some petty stream, wln'^li vents its petulance, as it struggles through it to o-ain tlie cleai, disencumbered valley, and the placid river rnarded by banks of slender cane and papyrus. And th'3n the traveller would observe tliat the valleys are gradually deepening, and the hills in- creasing in height, until suddenly he would be usliered into the presence of that king of mountains, Mount Gordon-Bennett, which towers sheer up to the aziire with a white veil about his crown, surrounded bv clusters of savage heights and ridges, and before whose indis])utable sublimity his soul seems 'o shrink. Escaping from the vicinity of this mountain moiiarcli, he would bo swept over a brown parched plateau for a short hour, oud then, all suddenly, come to a ])ause at the edge of an awful precipice some 1500 feet in depth. A fc the bottom of this, slumbering serenely, and reflecting the plateau walls on its placid surface, lies the blue Muta Nzifje'. * « GENERAL REMAEKS. I have still to add some details of interest. ^Itesa, in the preceding introduction to the reader, playing the part of Emperor at a public burzah, has still only a vague and indistinct personality, and so, to coni[)lete the portrait, I venture to append the Iblluwing remarks. On first acquaintance, as I have already said, lie strikes the traveller as a most fascinating ami a peculiarly amiable man, and should the traveller ever MTESA, THE IMPEBIAL C01\VERT, 405 tliirk of saving this pa^ii^fin ccnunent froin the pnrgator/ of heatliendom, tlie Emperor mTist occur L.. Lim us of all men in Africa tlie most promising* to egiii ^'. itb. Fur liiri intelligence and natural f'aciil' /=? arf of a verv liigii order, bis professions of love t'.> Wiiite men frreat, and his hospitality apparently boundless. Had he been educated in Europe, there can be little doubt but that he would have become a worthy member of society ; but nursed in the lap of paganism, and o-radu;ite only in superstition and ignorance, he is lo-day no more than an extraordinary African. Flattering as it may be to me to have had the lionour ot converting the pagan Emperor of Uganda to Christianity, I cannot hide from myself the fact tliat the conversion is only nominal, and that, to continue the good v/ork in earnest, a patient, assiduous, and zealous missionary is required. A few months* talk about Christ and His blessed work on earth, though sufficiently attractive to Mtesa, is lOt enough to eradicate the evils which thirty-five years of brutal, sensuous indu]o:ence have stair, -ed on the mind : this only the unflagging 7a al, tlvs untiring devotion to duty, and the patx^rna* watchfulness of a sincerely pious pastor can effect. ^Vnd it is because I am conscious of tl'^ insufficiency of rny work, and liis strong evil pro|)ensities, that I have not hesitated to describe the real character of my ^' convert." The grand redeeming feature of Mtcsa, though founded only on self-inter< st, is his admiration for wiiite men. When the traveller first enters Uganda, his path seems to be strewn with flowers, greetings with Welcome gifts follow one another rapidly, pages and courtiers kneel before him, and the lejist wish is immediately gratifi 1, for to make a request of the Kmperor is to honour him with the power of giving. So long as the stranger is a novelty, and his capacities 2 E 2 IS 7.',. October, Cgaada. i, ''*■(. 40G TimOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. or worth have not yet been sounded, his life in Ugand;^ October, gggj^g ^^ ^^^ r^ sunshiny holiday. Merinwhile, however, the pages, pursuivants, messen- gers, and courtiers have been measuring him by rules and methods of their own. His faculties have been calculated, his abilities keenly observed and noted, and his general utihty and value become accuratelv gauged, and all the time he has been eutertainod royally, and courted and favoured beyond all Lis expectations. But now approaches the time for him to make return, to fulfil the promise tacitly conveyed by his ready and friendly acceptance of gifts and favours. He is surprised by being asked if he can make gunpowder, manufacture a gun, cast a cannon, build a ship, or construct a stone or a brick house. If a priest ordained, and his garb and meelc, quiet behaviour prove it, liis work is ready cut for him : he has only to teach and preach. But if a soldier, why should he not know how to make guns, cannon, ships, brick houses, &c. ? If lie informs the Emperor that he is ignorant of tlie^e things, why then he must pay in other coin. He has guns with him, he must "give": he has watches, " give " ; he has various trifles of value, such as a gold pencil-case, or a ring, *' give " ; he wears good clothes, " give " ; he has beads, cloth, wire, " Give, give, give"; and so "give" to his utter beggary and poverty. If he does not give with the liberality of a "S[!eki" or ii ** Stamlee," who will henceforth be quoted to his con- fusion and shame, there will be found other ways to rid him of his superfluities. His men will be found unfaithful, and will desert, attracted by the rewards of Mtesa and glowing descri|)ti(ms of his liherality, and one day, when he is ahout to congratulate hinistdt that he is more fortunate than others, he will find himself suddenly bereft of half or three-fourths of his MISSIONARY PROSPECTS. 407 entire stock of goods. If the traveller states that he is acquainted with a few arts, he is expected to prove Ill's words, to the loss of hiv i'T^e and patience, and the waste of many precious m "Uths; even then what little he bas been able to do with such lazy knaves as the Waganda will prove insufficient, and he also, by craft, will be relieved of a few guns anc" bales. From these exactions only the resident missionary would be exempt, because he will be able to make ample amends for all deficiencies by staying to teach and preach, and he in time would, in reality, be the Emperor. To him Mtesa would bend with all the docility of a submissive child, and look up with reverence and affection. The peculiar wayward, petulant, inconsistent nature would become moulded anew, or be re-born to be presented henceforth to European travellers in an amiable, nay loveable, aspect. Mtesa is the most interesting man in Africa, and one well worthy of our largest sympathies ; and I repeat that through him only can Central Africa be Chris- tianized and civilized. It will be observed that I have styled Mtesa "Emperor" of Uganda, and not king, like my prede- cessors Speke and Grant. But my readers may re- member that it has been mentioned in the brief sketch jOf the Premier given above that all the Waganda, from the Emperor to the peasant, change their titles and names according as they are estimated in the [popular consideration. Before Suna's death Mtesa was a Mlangira (prince) ; klien he succeeded his father, being yet young, he received the title of Mukavya or Mkavya (king) of I'sranda, but after he had distinguished himself in the conquest of other kings, and won the imperial right, Ithis title was changed for Kabaka or Kawaka (Emperor). For the Empire of Uganda, as already 1875. October. Uganda. * i: 1875. October. Uguuda. 408 TIIROUan THE DARK CONTINENT. described, embraces several countries besides U^-anda proper. I was not aware of tliese several distinctions or grades until I liad been a long time resident at the court. The title of Mkama, again, sucb as that of Mkama Iiumanika of Karagwe, Mkama Mankoroncio of Usui, is synonymous with viceroy or siib-kiiifj, tliough literally translated it means " lord." Politi- courtiers [)rone on the ground, abasing themselves in the dust before Mtesa, will often address liim as " Mkama ange " (" My own lord "). The children of Mtesa are all styled Ulan^'ira (princes). Below this title there seems to be no otlier designation of hereditary condition save Kopi (peasant). Wakungu and Watongoleh alike are peasants born, and thereibre still peasants, though they may rank as cliiefs and sub-chiefs, or governors and lieutenant-governors, or generals and colonels. Thus Mtesa at Nakarangn, when he was pleased to promise to reward hira who first landed at Ingira Island with the place of Katekiro. asked the assembled chiefs, " For what is Pokino reallv? Is he not a peasant ? " Tlie moral character of the people is far below tlmt of the Emperor. Indeed, if it were not for him, no stranger would dare to enter Uganda. They have no respect for human life or human rights. Among themselves they recognize only might, and Mttsa might even be pardoned for exercising greater seventy than he does, for this fierce people requires to be governed with the almost unexampled severity of nn"ght and power which Suna so cruelly employeil They are crafty, fraudful, deceiving, lying, tllievi^ll knaves taken as a whole, and seem to be born with an uncontrollable love of gaining wealth by robberv. violence, and murder, in which they resemble — except that they liave the lawless instinct to a greater degree *' LIKE KING LIKE PEOPLE: 409 limn most — nearly all iVfrican tribes. Owing, liowever, to their terror of pniiisliment, the stranger is j^ernxitted to wander in almost certain safety throughout Uganda, and is hospitably treated as the "Emperor's guest" (Mgeni). One has only to hear the word "Nganya" I spoil) given by a person in authority to be surprised at the greed there and then exhibited. The adage has long been accepted for true, "Like father like son," and equally true would be the saving " Like king like people." The conduct of the oliiefs proves that in Uganda at least it is true, for, like the Emj)eror, they adopt a despotic style, and i-equire 10 he served by their inferiors with abject servility and promptitude. Like him, also, the chiefs are fond of pomp and disj^lay, and, as far as their rank and means pLimit, they exhibit this vanity to the utmost. Thus, the monarch has always about two score of drummers, a score of fifers, half a score of native piitar-players, several mountebanks, clowns, dwarfs, and albinoes, a multitude of errand-boys, pages, messengers, courtiers, claimants, besides a large number of hodygnards and two standard-bearers, either follow- ing or preceding him wherever he goes, to declare his state and quality. The chiefs, therefore, have also their followers, standard-bearers, and pages, and so on down to the peasant or cowherd, who makes an infantile shive trot after him to carry his shield and spears. In person the Waganda are tall and slender. I have seen hundreds of them above G feet 2 inches in height, while I saw one who measured 6 feet 6 inches. Of course the native Waganda must be distinguished from strangers and slaves and their descendants imported from conquered lands, and generally they differ from these by their more pleasing looks and more agreeable features. This last, however, may be attributed to a general love of cleanliness, neatness, and modesty, October. Ugamla. 410 TIIROUOn THE DARE CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. which pervades all, from the highest to the lowest. A naked or immodest person is a downright abomina- tion to a follower of Mtesa's court, and even tlie poorest peasants frown and sneer at absolute nudity. It has been mentioned above that the Waganda sur- pass other African tribes in craft and fraud, but this may, at the same time, be taken as an indication of their superior intelligence. This is borne out by many other proofs. Their cloths are of finer make ; tliuir habi cations are better and neater ; their spears are the most perfect, I should say, in Africa, and they exhibit extraordinary skill and knowledge of that deadly weapon ; their shields are such as would attract ad- miration in any land, while the canoes surpass all canoes in the savage world. The Waganda frequently have recourse to drawing on the ground to illustrate imperfect oral description, and I have often been surprised by the cleverness and truthfulness of these rough illustrations. When giving reasons firstly, secondly, and thirdly, they have a curious way of taking a stick and breaking it into small pieces. One piece of a stick delivered with emphasis, and gravely received by the listener in his palm, concludis the first reason, another stick announces the conclusion of the second reason, until they come to the " thirdly," when they raise both hands with the palms turned from them, as if to say, *' There, I've given you my reasons, and you must perforce understand it all now!" Nearly all the principal attendants at the court can write tlie Arabic letters. The Emperor and many of the chiefs both read and write that character with facility, and frequently employ it to send messages to one another, or to strangers at a distance. The materials which they use for this are very thin smooth slabs of cotton-wood. MtCvsa possesses several score of these, ou which are written his " books of wisdom," as he styles THE BANANA. 411 the results of his interviews with European travellers. Some (lay a curious traveller may think it worth while to give us translations of these proceedings and inter- views. Tlie power of sight of these natives is extraordinary. Frequently a six-guinea field-glass was excelled by them. Tlieir sense of hearing is also very acute. It is really wonderful into how many uses the in- ijeiiious savage of these regions can convert a simple jilant. Regard the banana-plant, for instance. At first view, in the eyes of the untaught civilized man, it seems to le of no other use than to bear fruit after its kind, for the stalk of it cannot be employed as fuel, and its fronds 8oon fade and wither and rend, and unless the savage pointed out its various uses, I fear the civilized man would consider it as of slight value. It is, however, of exceeding utility to the native of Uganda. 1. Its fruit, green or ripe, forms his principal food. "When green, the Waganda peels his bananas, folds them carefully up in the form of a parcel, enclosed in green banana-leaves, and, putting a small quantity of water in his pot, cooks them with the steam alone. This mode of cooking green bananas renders them floury in appearance, and, in taste, most sweet and palatable. When ripe, they form an admirable d^^sert, and, taken in the morning before coffee, serve with some consti- tutions as an agreeable laxative. Of the banana proper, there are several varieties, each distinguished by a special name, just as the Euro- pean gardener distinguishes his several varieties of potatoes. Some are 3 inches in length, with deep green coats, and seem fat with matter. Others, 6 inches in length, and of a lighter green colour, are considered the best; others are short, plumpy fruit, great favourites also. There is another species, known by a dark point, lather bitter to the taste and unfit for food, but 1875. October Uganda. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &0 L^/ ^ *^% ^^ :/- 1.0 I.I 125 Li 12.8 IS b£ 12.0 u IL25 HI 1.4 14 m 1.6 o^ / r. /w ^^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation ■<^ ^> ^ V N> ^^ 23 WIST MAIN STRiiT WIBSTH.N.Y. MStO (716) S77 )S03 ;\ 412 TEROUGE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Ugaada. specially reserved for the manufacture of wine, for which it alone is adapted. 2. The fruit of this latter species furnishes the natives with the maramba, a honey-sweet, cider-flavoured wine, and, when mixed with a little millet, sweet beer also. "When fermented and perfect, the latter is a potent liquid, and a quart suffices to disturb the equilibrium of many men ; but there are old topers, like Prince Kaduma, who would toss off a gallon and be apparently only slightly elated after it. A small draught of maramba taken at dawn I found beneficial to the system. 3. The banana-fronds serve as thatch for houses, fences for enclosures, and as bedding. They are also used to protect milk, water, and flour vessels from dust and impurities, are employed as table-cloths, on which food is spread, and, like newspapers or brown paper, are used as wrappers for gifts of eatables, such as ripe bananas, butter, meat, eggs, fish, &c., while they serve daily and universally as pudding-cloths in the Ki^-anda households. The cool, thick shade afforded by a banana plantation is well known. . 4. The stems are sometimes used for fences and defensive enclosures ; they are also frequently employed as rollers, to move heavy logs, or for the transportation of canoes overland from point to point, wlien the strategies of war demand it. The pith or heart of the stalk is scraped and made into sponges of a dough-cake pattern, and may be seen in almost all Kiganda lava- tories. Frequently the indolent prefer to knead a fresh eponge-cake and make their ablutions with tin's to going to the river, lake, pond, or well, or troubling themselves to fetch a vessel of water. The fibres of the stalk are used as cord, and are adapted for almost every purpose for which corJ is useful. The poorest peasants make rough but Vi Ik r.'. H U ei H CO a « J = J- •? c 5^5 =^ :2-'i^ a. C = is - u C a c s a C ■■ - ;_■ O •J! I-' oc o: S^ 4*" t/ 3 it (x^ 5, •5"S-5S ^ I. N &J -^ « ri •♦ KJ I I i. I 414 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. October. Uganda. serviceable shields also from the stalk, while the fisher- men of the lake make large sun-hats from it. Many other uses might be mentioned, but the above are Bufficient to prove that, besides its cool agreeable shado, the banana-plant will supply a peasant of Uganda with bread, potatoes, dessert, wine, beer, medicine, house and fence, bed, cloth, cooking-pot, table-cloth, parcel- wrapper, thread, cord, rope, sponge, bath, shield, sun- hat, even a canoe — in fact almost everything but meat and iron. With the banana-plant, he is happy, fiit, and thriving ; without it, lie is a famished, discontented, woe-begone wretch, hourly expecting death. .^"^ NOOGO FISH. 10 inches long, 3 inches d(ep; scalcli'ss; horn nt each slioulder; Iwo lonj thick Hlamciits on up[icr \\\\ four on lower, found in Si)eke (lull', Lake Victoria, 2iii,' i ^i/ii!,^ (yi' JulLbA'a FAMILY. 115 CHAPTER XVI. TO MUTA NZIGfi AND BACK TO UGANDA. The ladies of Mtesa's family — Sambtizi ordered to take me to Jtnta Nzif.'^ — My last evening with Mtesa — En route for Muta Nzig6 — Sanibuzi suffers from " the big head " — We come to an understanding — The white people of Gambaragara — War music — Through a deserted country — Sinister auguries — A cowards' council of war — Panic in the camp — Sambuzi announces his intention of deserting me — The flight when none pursued — Tne " Spoiler " eaten up — Mtesa tries to persuade me to return — At Eafurro. Ulugalla. Ox the 29th October Mtesa and his grand army arrived 1875. at the old capital of Ulagalla. There was but little ^''"''"^** demonstration made to wjlcome the monarch from the war, except what was made by the females of the imperial household, who were mustered in strong force under the leadership of Nana Mazuri, the Emperor's mother, a venerable old lady of decidedly masculine mind, and of a revengeful and fierce disposition. The Emperor honours his mother greatly, and bestowed hearty embraces on her and on the ancient relicts of Suna his father, who were also brought to meet him ana to do him honour, and to receive the son of heroic Suna as became their respect for him and their awe of his rank and power. Lu-lu-luing and welcomes and fond smiles were the order of the day ; a p:rcat drinking of maramba wine and potent beer followed ; and musketry salutes, killing of beeves and A ft- li 418 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 16 No vein DC UluguUu, goats, and interchan^^ing of presents, closed the day * of the return to the capital. After allowing a few days to transpire for rest, I began to recall to the Emperor's mind the original purpose of my visit to him, and of his promise to con- form to my request. He consented to my departure, and kindly permitted me to make my own choice out of his chiefs for the leader of the force which was to give its aid to our Expedition for the exploration of tlio country be+ween Muta Nzige and Lake Victoria. I selected Sambuzi, a young man of thirty years of afre or thereabouts, whose gallantry and personal couiauo had several times been conspicuously displayed during the war with the Wavuma, and whose rank and station guaranteed a force strong enough to withstand, if well managed, a greater power than the king of Unyoro— then at war with Gordon Pasha — could conveniently despatch to oppose us. Mtesa, admitting that Sambuzi was a wise choice, stated with the usual exaggeration of an African or an Oriental that he should have 6000 warriors, and all the chiefs at the levee concurred with him. On my request to him that he would repeat, clearly and within hearing of all, his commands to Sambuzi, Mtesa called the chief to him, who, while prostrate on the grouiKl, received the following command in a loud and clear voice " Sambuzi, my guest Stamlee is going to Muta Nzige. He has asked that you should lead the Waganda to the lake, and I have consented. Now listen to my words. Nearly all the white men who liave accepted my people as escort complain that the Waganda gave great trouble to them. Let me not hear this of you. I shall send messengers to Kahha Rega to inform him of your object, and command him to abstain from molesting you. Now go, muster MT LAST EVENING WITH MTESA. 417 all your men, and I shall send four sub-cliiefs with i875. 1000 men each under Watongoleh to assist you. D^Novemier. T^hatever Stamlee advises or suggests should be done, *^" and by no means return to Uganda until you have absolutely performed my commands. If you do return without Stamlee's letter authorizing you to abandon tlie project, you will dare my anger. I have said." "Thanks, thanks, thanks, oh, thanks, my lord!" Sambuzi replied, rubbing his face in the dust. Then standing up, he seized his spears, and, levelling them, cried out : " I go at the Emperor's command to take Standee to the Muta Nzige'. I shall take Stamlee through the heart of Unyoro to the lake. "We shall build a strong boma, and stay there until Stamlee has iinislied his work. Who shall withstand me ? My drum shall be sounded for the muster to-day, and I shall gather all the young men of the Katonga valley under my flag! When Sambuzi's flag is seen, the Waiiyoro will fly and leave my road white and free, for it is Kabaha who sends him, and Sambuzi comes in the name of Kabakal Thanks, thanks, oh, many tbaidvs, my lord, my own dear lord ! " The eve of my departure was spent in conversation with the Emperor, who seemed really sorry that the time had arrived for a positive and final leave-taking. The chief subject of conversation was the Christian church, which had just begun to be erected, where the rites of the Church were to be performed by Dalling- ton after the style and manner shown to him by the Universities Mission at Zanzibar, until one more worthy to take his place should arrive. We went together over the grounds of the Christian faith, and Mtesa repeated to me at my request as much as he knew of the advantages to be gained by the adoption of the Christian religion, and of its supe- riority to that of Islam, in which he had first beea ~«4 418 THROUOB THE DARK CONTINENT. 1875. November. Ulagalla. taught. By his remarks he proved that he had a verv retentive memory, and was tolerably well posted in hi^s articles of belief. At night I left him with an earnest adjuration to hold fast to the new faith, and to have recourse to prayer to God to give him strength to withstand all temptations that should tend to violate the commandments written in the Bible. Early next morning my convert sent me many presents as tokens of his esteem, such as four shields sixteen spears, twelve kaives, ten billhooks, six walk- ing-sticks, twelve finely prepared skins and furs of wilj animals, 20 lbs. of myrrh, four white monkey-skins, ten beeves, sixteen goats, bananas and beer and wine, and an escort of one hundred warriors to proceed bv the lake to Dumo. For our mutual friend Lukongeh, king of Ukerewe, ^e sent at my request five long tusks of ivory, one comely virgin of fifteen as a wife suitable for a king, being of the beautiful race of Gambaragara, also 20lbs. of fine iron wire, six white monkey-skins, and one large new canoe, capable of carrying fifty men. For my friend the king of Komeh Island and the lake shore of Uzinja he sent the same, and distrihnted beeves among the ambassadors from the king, whom I had brought to receive these presents. From myself I sent to my kind friend Lukongeli one bale of assorted cloth, two coils of brass wire, (iO ll>s. of fine beads, and two suits of blue and red flannel, besides a plush velvet rug. ' Happy that I had so prospered despite the vexatious delay which was unavoidable, and that I bad been able to do even more than I had promised to the kings of Ukerewe and Komeh, I set out from Ntewi with twenty large canoes full of Waganda warriors, five canoes for my own special escort, two to escort the embassy of Ukerewe home, two to escort the embassy 1 a very id in his earnest to have ngth to ) violate e many • shields, ix walk- 's of wilJ :ey-skins, nd wine, oceed by Ukerewe, vory, one r a king, ;ara, also kins, and men. and the istrihuted , whom I )ngeli one re, ()() ll»s. d flannel, vexations had been the kings ;ewi with •iors, five escort the embassy •g %f =Ai i •O 'SS ill H E fct & T *- -^ i w fcj3 *5 'fi-rj b • lit 8 J %■ "s k -^ 5 1 g-* 5 * = •= "^ "f" e? * r- tr S S-C' a u- B i- .K 3 PI n -• lo f Gamba- )lexion,ap- bo diflered "Waganda. their diet •? ^ appeared these pec and rem Lighest rej)resen1 but I ha( enquire ( was told, their owr tlie best i These are nati^ between braces all of the loj of which we travel which la^ Unvoro : describe i and blimti Accord a series of falls plun usually oc The king, families, 1 ^^^e monn- filing liivt «is a hollo contains a I'ises a lof ^now freq ai'e thickly the couraf derided b^ :^: ^ -■ ^ , ^ ■c=^ n. i; Jf-I^; ■ ■ TEE WHITE PEOPLE OF GAMBABAQAPA. 427 [II- Kawaoga. appeared to consist entirely of milk. The features of tsTS. these people, besides their complexion, were so regular ^«'=«'"'»«'' and remarkable that my curiosity was aroused to the highest pitch concerning them. I had seen stray rej)resentatives of these people at the court of Mtesa, but I had not the opportunity then that I had now to enquire definitely about them. I here set down, as I was told, what I gathered respecting them, both from tlieir own lips and those of Colonel Sekajugu, who was the best informed of the Waganda. These light-complexioned, regular-featured people are natives of Gambaragara — a country situated between Usongora and Unyoro. Gambaragara em- braces all the immediate districts neighbouring the base of the lofty Mount Gordon-Bennett, upon the summit of which snow is often seen. We caught a view, as we travelled through Unyoro, of this lofty mountain, which lay north-westerly from Western Benga, in Unyoro ; but the distance was too great for me to describe it exacth\ It appeared to be an enormous and blunted cone about 14,000 or 15,000 feet high. According to Sekajugu, the mountain sp ings up in a series of terraces from a level plain ; numerous water- falls plunge down its steep slopes, and two days are usually occupied in the ascent to the highest summit. The king, Ny-ika, with his principal chiefs and their families, live during war-time on the highest part of tlie mountain, which appears to be, from report, some- thing like an extinct crater. They described it to me as a hollow surrounded by high walls of rock, \\hich contains a small round lake, from tlie centre of which rises a lofty columnar rock. It is very cold there, and Hiow frequently falls. The slopes, base, and summit are thickly^ populated, but though powerful in numbers, the courage and skill of the people in war are much derided by the Waganda, who speak of them as pre- 428 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. ferring to take refuge in caves, and on the summits of December, j^jj^j^gj; inucces^ible Tocks, to venturing into the open Kawanga. « « . « i . ^ for a fair nght. Though probably inferior in courage to the Wa- ganda, they must have distinguished themselves in war at one time, otherwise I cannot account for the brave and warlike people of Usongora being the subjects of Ny-ika, king of Gambaragara. This king possesses several villages in different parts of the mountain, and appears to move from one to another, as his numerous herds of cattle become stinted in their pasture. Milk being the principal diet of these people, it may be supposed that cattle are abundant in Gambaragara and Usongora. The Katekiro of Uganda in his great raid on this region is said to have collected " 50,000 *' head of cattle. General Sambuzi accom- panied him during that famous time, and lias often amused my leisure hours with lively descriptions of his adventures. The people are a peculiarly formed race. At one time they are said to have been all white, and to have emigrated from Northern Unyoro, but at the present time the black and light-complexioned are about equal in numbers. The blacks are the result of successive wars during ancient times and intermarriages between the captors and captives, the result being a singularly long-limbed and slender-bodied people. The royal family and the chiefs* families continue to preserve their exclusiveness, and hence it is that the original colour of the founders of the state has been preserved. The women are said to be singularly beautiful ; I have seen several of them, and though I would not call them beautiful, as we understand the term in Europe and America, they are superior to any women I have seen in Africa, and have nothing in common with nefrroes except the hair. They are said also to be entrusted WAR MUSIC. 429 with the keeping of the charms of Kabba Rega, and to be endowed by hereditary right with the privilege of priests of the Muzimu of Unyoro. To my disappointment I heard of nothing that would lead me to suppose they were superior to their less favoured neighbours in manners or customs or their ways and means of life. On New Year's Day, 1876, the exploring army, nearly 2800 strong, filed out from under the plantain shades of Kawanga, each detachment under the flag of its respective leader, and each known by the particular style of music adopted by the great chief to whom it owed martial service. Thus Sambuzi's own force could be distinguished at a great distance by a peculiar strain, which, as the Waganda explained, announced, " Mta-usa, Mta-usa is coming ! " or, " The Spoiler, the Spoiler is coming ! " Lukoma's bands of music in the same way rang out, " Mkoma, Lukoma is near ! " ** Look out for Lukoma ! " Sekajugu's name, on the other hand, appeared after the style of ding-dong-bell, or drawn out into " Se-ka-ju-gu, Sekajugu ! " On emerging from under the shelter of our plan- t-ain-embowered camp, we were drawn up in a long line along the narrow road. Sekajugu was appointed to take the advance, Lukoma the rear, Sambuzi and the Anglo-American Expedition the centre, while the smaller detachments, under Colonels Ngezi, Mrowla, and Kurji, took positions on the right and left, to keep the main column undisturbed by ambuscades. There was no time lost in these arrangements, and at sunrise the great drum of Sambuzi gave the signal for the march. At noon we occupied a deserted camp, known as the Salt Bunder, on the Nabutari river, which separated Unyoro from Uganda. The heights on the opposite side were observed to be manned by many Wanyoro. 1878, January t. Kawanga. ■ 1 ^ ¥>• i I 430 THROUGH THE BARK CONTINENT. 1876. With the eastern bank of the Nabutari, or Nabwari, January 2. ^jygp terminated the soft pastoral scenes among which ''^°"* our route had lain ever since leaving Dumo, on Lake Victoria, for from the western bank began a more rugged country, which, as we proceeded westward, daily assumed a more mountainous character. The country resolved itself into mountain masses of great altitude — bare and serrated hilly ridges, isolated craggy hills, separated by a rolling country, whose surface often presented great sheets of ironstone rock, mixed with fragments of granite. Each day's march presented two or three mountains of unusual height, which, dwarfing all others, became of great service to us in taking bearings and laying down a correct route. On the 2nd January we crossed the Nabutari, or Nabwari, river, and entered hostile Unyoro, f^nd, undis- turbed, made a march of ten miles, occupying at the end of it several villages in Southern Ruoko, Unyoro. Had we not been informed of the change, we should have recognized at once the fact that we had entered into a new country, by the difference in the construction of the huts, and in the vegetables which formed the principal subsistence of the natives. While in Uganda bananas formed our principal food — and very good, wholesome, and digestible they proved — throughout Unyoro our diet consisted of sweet potatoes and salt, varied with such other vegetables as foraging could obtain. It was an amusing scene to see the haste with wliicli the several detachments I'ushed about to dig up their rations. It appeared at first glance as if we had brought the exploring army to recultivate Unyoro, so thickly strewn and so busy were the diggers over the village fields. The digging was continued until Bunset, and such quantities of potatoes came to camp SINISTER AUGURIES. 431 tliat I fancied something like a desire to plunder the Wanyoro animated our people. In the meantime our advance was unchecked, and our occupation of Southern Ruoko unmolested ; Sanibuzi and Sekajugu drewfrom this sinister auguries. " Tlie "Wanyoro," said they, " must be mustering elsewliere to oppose us ; for usually, when we make a raid on this country, the natives hail us from the hill-tops, to learn the motive of our coming; but now the country is all silent and deserted ; not one native can be seen." They therefore determined to send out spies in all directions, to ascertain the feeling of the natives respecting our strange invasion of their country ; and in order to give time to obtain correct information, a halt was ordered for the next day. On the 5th January the various musical bands and war-drums announced another march. The Waganda being unencumbered with baggage, except such bed- ding, mats, and superfluous robes as their women car- ried, marched quickly, and tasked the heavily loaded Expedition greatly; but my people did not fail me; they had long ago been thoroughly drilled for such occasions as the present, and they kept step and pace with the lightly equipped Waganda. The men who carried the boat-sections and canoe raced like horseo, and arrived soon after the advanced-guard at cfimp. Traversing the district of South Ruoko, we plunged into an uninhabited tract of mountain country, and, after a march of eleven miles, camped at Kazinga, in Eastern Benga. The next day we crossed the Katonga, for our course was now westerly, and occupied Western Benga, from the summit of a tall hill in which we obtained a faint view of an enormous blue mass afar off, which we were told was the Great Mountain, in the country of Gara- Wragara. I named it Gordon-Bennett, in honour of iny American chief. 1878. Januiiry S. Unyoro. ill > i,: .- ^-: 432 rniiouan the dark continent. 1876. Our foragers here obtained for the first time a sij^lit January 7. ^^^ hearing of some natives, who shouted out tliat wo "^**"' might proceed without fear, though the- "oubted our ability to return, unless wo took wing. . .e birds atnl flew aloft. Some hiding-places of the natives were also discovered by accident amongst the tall grass beyoml the fields. A little way from the village we found many deep pits, with small circular mouths, which proved, on examination, to lead by several passages from the mouth of the pit to more roomy excavations, like so many apartments. These underground dwellings are nume- rous in Southern Unyoro. After a march of sixteen miles through a wild country, we camped, on the 8th January, on the east bank of the Mpanga river. This stream takes its rise near the base of Mount Gordon-Bennett, and, flowing a few miles to the east of the lofty hump of Mount Edwin Arnold, is met by the Rusango river, flowing north- west from Mount Lawson, in the district of Kibanga, in Ankori ; the two streams then, united, rush with im- petuous force a little north of west, and, after se viral falls, plunge into Beatrice Grulf. Mount Edwin Arnold, of an altitude of some 9000 feet above the sea, stood west of our camp, on the Mpanga, at the distance of six miles. We had now left Unyoro proper and entered Ankori, or Usagara. An old dilapidated wooden enclosuie denoted that this extreme corner of Ankori was some- times visited by Wasagara herdsmen for the sake of pasture. The average altitude of our several camps since leaving the Victoria Lake did not exceed 4600 feet ; but as we drew west, the nights were bitterly cold. On the night of the 7th the thermometer fell to 53° Falir., and on the night of the 8th to 55° Fahr., this cold tempera- ture being, no doubt, caused by night winds from Gordon- MOUNT EDWIN ARNOLD. 433 rsf^nnett mountain. Fogs, rivalling tlie famed November isto. " ^ - ., -, 1 . Jiinuary 8. fogs in London, prevailed as a rule every morning, ^^^^^.^ rendering the earlier part of each day damp, disagrec- filile and cheerless. It was so thick that a man's form could not be seen at the distance of fifty yards, and horns and drums alone guided us on our march. During the afternoons the atmosphere slightly cleared, and the sun struggling in the western skies from behind deep ..-t,^* H»;i^JN. MULMT £1)WIN AUNOLD. Wnks of sullen clouds, endeavoured to announce to us that the day was far spent. On the 9tli January 1876 the drums sounded for the march two hours before sunrise, for we had a long journey before us, and Uzimba, the country of chief Ruigi, was to be entered on this day. Until daylight we journeyed along, or not far from, tlie Rusango, its many falls, rapids, and cascades telling ^f the rapid rush and furious plunge of the river to- ^vards Muta Nzige. Dawn found us in a singularly ^'ild and beautifully picturesque country, the Switzer- liiud of Africa. ^•p '>\- 1 484 TEHOUan THE DAIiK CONTINENT. 1876. ,p' Peaks, cones, mountain humps, and dome-like nms ^"i^mba^ shot up in every direction, while ice-coM streams rolled between riven and dismantled rocks, or escaped le- neath natural bridges of rock, with furious roar. Theso gritty sandstone obstructions to the Rusango's waters presented most distorted and eccentric forms, appear- ing often like masses of scoriae. The traces of some agency, which long ago had convulsed this region, were visible in what appeared to be the wreck of mountains. The strata were perpendicular, seams of white quurtz travelled along the lay of the strata in some places, and in others it appeared to have been encased in round moulds, which the impetuous waters, with their ceaseless wear and tear, had worn through, sweeping away the quartz, and leaving large hollows, cavities, and fissures in the sandstone. A small tributary of the Eusango from the south ran over a bed of polished basalt, which likewise contained large veins of quartz. Soon after noon the main column arrived at the centre of a dip in the Uzimba ridge, 6600 feet ahove the sea, whence, far below us, we viewed the fields, gardens, and villages of the populous country of King Ruigi. But the sudden advance of the vanguard amongst the surprised natives, with banners flying and drums beating, had depopulated for the time the fair, smiling country, and left a clear, open road for the main body. Had the natives known of our approach, they might have reaped a rich harvest of revenge amongst the laggards in the rear, for the long march of nineteen miles had irremediably dissolved the hitherto compnct Expedition into small knots of dispirited and tiied stragglers. One fellow, named Andrew, of the British Mission at Zanzibar, had thrown his load down, and plunged into the bushes to sleep his weariness off, and a rescue party of twenty men had to be sent back five miles from camp to hunt up news of him, and they, h- A COWARDS' COUNCIL OF WAR. 435 fortunately, saved him, though menaced by a band of \^iq. natives. Some sick xYaganda fell victims in the even- '^*"'r7 '* iiif,' to the wrath of a roving party of the natives, who liad been disturbed in mind by our presence. Our descent into the fields of Uzimba was so un- expected that the inhabitants were utterly ignorant of our character and country. As they ran away, they a>ke(l the advance guard why the king of Ankori had .cC'J;>-: ^ n * « v: PSD S t- li « -<; •-i' W p5 »» «' . Kafuiro. i , ■-. - ■■-' 454 THROUGU THE DARK CONTINENT. 1870. Feb. 26. liafurio. ^^" l)een spent in Karagwe. He knew Suna, the warlike Emperor of Uganda, and father of Mtesa. He lias travelled to Uganda frequently, and several times made the journey between Unyanyembe and Kafiirro. Havini!^ lived so long in Karagwe, he is friendly with Eumanika, who, like Mtesa, loves to attract strangers to liis court. Hanied has endeavoured several times to open trade with the powerful Empress of Ruanda, but has each time failed. Though some of his slaves succeeded in reaching the imperial court, only one or two managed to effect their escape from the treachery and extra- ordinary guile practised there. Nearly all perished by poison. He informed me that the Empress was a tall woman of middle age, of an almost light Arab complexion, with very large brilliant eyes. Her son, the prince, a boy of about eighteen, had some years ago committed suicide by drinking a poisonous potion, because bis mother had cast some sharp cutting reproaches upon him, which 'had so wounded his sensitive spirit that, he said, " nothing but death would relieve him." Hamed is of the belief that these members of the imperial family are descendants of some light-coloured people to the north, possibly Arabs ; " for how," asked he, "could the king of Kishakka possess an Arab scimitar, which is a veneiated heir-loom of the royal familv, and the sword of the founder of that king- dom?" **A11 these people," said he, "about here are as different from the ordinary Washensi — pagans— as I am different from them. I would as soon mnrry a woman of Ruanda as I would a female of Muscat. When you go to see Rumanika, you will see some I AVanya-Ruanda, and you may then judge for yourself. The j)eople of that country are not cowards. Maisliallali.j LAKE WINDERMERE. 455 they liave taken Kishakka, Muvari, and have lately con- quered Mpororo. The Waganda measured their strength with them, and were obliged to retreat. The Wanya- Riianda are a great people, but they are covetous, malignant, treacherous, and utterly untrustworthy. They have never yet allowed an Arab to trade in their country, which proves them to be a bad lot. There is plenty of ivory there, and during the last eight years Khamis bin Abdullah, Tippu-Tib, Say id bin Habib, and I myself have attempted frequently to enter there, but none of us has ever succeeded. Even Rumanika's people are not allowed to penetrate far, though he permits everybody to come into his country, and he ia a man of their own blood and their own race, and speaks with little diiference their own language." Ilnmed Ibrahim was not opening out very brilliant prospects before me, nevertheless I resolved to search out in person some known road to this strange country that I might make a direct course to Nyangw^, On the third day after arrival, the king having heen informed of my intended visit, Hamed Ibrahim and Sayid bin Sayf accompanied me on an official visit to Rumanika, king of Karagwe, and a tributary of Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda. Kafurro, according to aneroid, is 3950 feet above the ocean. Ascending the steep slope of the mountain ^vest of Kafurro, we gained an altitude of 5150 feet, and half an hour afterwards stood upon a ridge 5350 feet above the sea, whence we obtained a most grand and imposing view. Some 600 feet below us was a grassy terrace overlooking the small Windermere Lake, 1000 feet below, its placid surface rivalling in colour the azure of the cloudless heaven. Across a narrow ridge we looked upon the broad and papyrus- covered valley of the Alexandra, whilst many fair, blue lakelets north and south, connected by the winding 187fi. Feb. 28. Kafurro^ •j , ;. ; '. H K m h 456 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT, 1878. March. Karugw^. silver line of the Alexandra Nile, suggested that here exploring work of a most interesting character was needed to understand the complete relations of lake, river, and valley to one another. Beyond the broad valley rose ridge after ridge, separated from each other by deep parallel basins, or valleys, and behind these, receding into dim and vague outlines, towered loftier ridges. About sixty miles off, to the north-west, rose a colossal sugar-loaf clumn of enormous altitude, which I was told was the Ufumbiro mountains. From their northern base extended Mporoio country and South Ruanda. At the northern end of the Windermere Lake, an irregular range, which extends north to Ugoi, terminates in the dome-like Mount Isossi. South of where I stood, and about a mile distant, was the bold mount of Kazwiro, and about thirty miles beyond it I could see the irregular and confused masses of tlio Kishakka mountains. On the grassy terrace below us was situated Ru- manika's village, fenced round by a strong and circular stockade, *to which we now descended after having enjoyed a noble and inspiriting prospect. Our procession was not long in attracting hundreds of persons, principally youths, all those who iniglit be considered in their boyhood being perfectly nude. '* Who are these ? " I inquired of Sheikh Hamed. " Some of the youngest are sons of Rumanika, others are young Wanya-Ruanda," he replied. The sons of Rumanika, nourished on a milk diet, were in remarkably good condition. Their unctuous skiiis shone as though the tissues of fat beneath were dissolving in the heat, and their rouri'^led Lodiis were as taut as a drumhead. Their e es wjre lar^% and beaming and lustrous with life, yet softened uy an extreme gentleness of expression. The sculptur liUMANIKA, THE GENTLE KING. 457 mlglit have obtained from any of these royal boys fi dark model for another statue to rival the classic Antinous. As we were followed by the youths, who welcomed lis with a graceful courtesy, the appropriate couplet cume to my mind — " Thrice happy race ! that, innocent of blood, From milk innoxious, seek their simple food." We were soon ushered into the hut wherein Ru- manika sat expectant, with one of the kindliest, most paternal smiles it would be possible to conceive. bumaniea's tbeasube-house. I confess to have been as affected by the first glance at this venerable and gentle pagan as though I gazed on the serene and placid fac 3 of some Christian patriarch or saint of old, whose memory the Church still holds in reverence. His face reminded me of a deep still well ; the tones of his voice were so calm that unconsciously they compelled me to imitate liim, ^■'lile the quick, nervous gestures and the bold voice ^f Slieikli Hamed, seeming entirely out of place, jarred "pon me. It was no wonder that the peremptory and imperi- 1876. March. Karagw^. ..i' r^s ;|i 458 TEROUOE TEE DARK CONTINENT, 1876. March. Karagwdi ous, vivid-eyed Mtesa respected and loved this sweet- tempered pagan. Though they had never met, Mtesa's pages had descrihed him, and with their powers of mimicry had brought the soft modulated tones of Rumanika to his ears as truly as they had borne his amicable messages to him. What greater contrasts can be imagined than tlie natures of the Emperor Mtesa and the King Rumanika? In some of his volcanic passions Mtesa seemed to be Fury personified, and if he were represented on the stage in one of his furious moods, I fear that the actor would rupture a blood-vessel, destroy his eyes, and be ever afterwards afflicted with madness. The "Waganda always had recourse to action and gesture to supplement their verbal descriptions of his raging fits. His eyes, they said, were "balls of fire and large as fists," while his words were "like gun- powder." Nature, which had endowed Mtesa with a nervous and intense temperament, had given Rumanika the placid temper, the soft voice, the mild benignity, and pleasing character of a gentle father. The king appeared to me, clad as he was in red blanket cloth, when seated, a man of middle size, but when he afterwards stood up, he rose to the gigantic stature of 6 feet 6 inches or thereabouts, for the top of my head, as we walked side by side, only reached near his shoulders. His face was long, and his nose some- what Roman in shape ; the profile showed a decidedly refined type. Our interview was very pleasing, and he took excessive interest in every question I addressed to him. When I spoke, he imposed silence on his friends, and leaned forward with eager attention. If I wished to know anything about the geography of the country, be im- THE WONDERS OF KAIiAQWA 459 mediately sent for so ne particular person wlio was iicquainted with that portion, and inquired searchingly of him as to his knowledge. He chuckled when he saw me use my note-book, as though he had some large personal interest in the number of notes I took. He appeared to be more and more deh'ghted as their bulk increased, and triumphantly pointed out to the Arabs the immense superiority of the whites to them. He expressed himself as only too glad that I should explore his country. It was a land, he said, that white men ought to know. It possessed many Likes and rivers, and mountains and hot springs, and many other things which no other country could hoast of. "W^hich do you think best, Stamlee — Karagwe or Uganda ? " " Karagwe is grand, its mountains are high, and its valleys deep. The Kagera is a grand river, and the lakes are very pretty. There are more cattle in Karagwe than in Uganda, except Uddu and Koki ; and game is ahundant. But Uganda is beautiful and rich ; its banana plantations are forests, and no man need to fear starvation, and Mtesa is good — and so is Father Rumanika," I replied smiling to him. " Do you hear him, Arabs ? Does he not speak well ? Yes, Karagwe is beautiful," he sighed contentedly. *' But bring your boat up and place it on the Rweru (lake), and you can go up the river as far as Kishakka, and down to Morongo (the falls), where the water is tlirown against a big rock and leaps over it, and then goes down to the Nianja of Uganda. Yerily, my river is a great one ; it is the mother of the river at Jinja (Ril)on Falls). You shall see all my land; and when you have finished the river, I will give you more to see— Mtagata's hot springs 1 " 187C. Marcli. Kuragwdb It 4G0 TimOUGff THE DAUK CONTINENT, 1876. JInrch 6. Kazinga. ^.■1^' ** pi By tlie 6th March, Frank had launched the boat from the landing at Kazinga village on the waters of the Win- dermere Lake,* or the Rweru of Rumanika, and tlie next day Rumanika accompanied me in state to the water. Hnlf a dozen heavy anklets of bright copper adorned his legs, bangles of the same metal encircled his wrists, a robe of crimson flannel was suspended from his shoulders. His walking-staff was 7 feet in lenj^tli, and his stride was a yard long. Drummers and fifers discoursing a wild music, and fifty spearmen, besides his sons and relatives, Wanya-Ruanda, Waganda, Wasui, Wanyamwezi, Arabs, and Wangwana, followed us in a mixed multitude. Four canoes manned by Wamyambu were at hand to race with our boat, while we took our seats on the grassy slopes of Kazinga to view the scene. I enjoined Frank and the gallant boat's crew to exert themselves for the honour of us Children of the Ocean, and not to permit the Children of the Lakes to excel us. A boat and canoe race on the Windermere of Karagwe, with 1200 gentle-mannered natives gazing on ! An African international affair ! Rumanika was in his element ; every fibre of him tingled with joy at the prospective fun. His sons, seated around him, looked up into their father's face, their own reflecting- his delight. The curious natives shared in the general gratification. . ■' The boat-race was soon over ; it was only for about 800 yards, to Kankorogo Point. There was not much difference in the speed, but it gave immense satisfaction. The native canoeraen, standing up with their long paddles, strained themselves with all their energy, stimulated by the shouts of their countrymen, while * This lake received this name from Captain Speke, because Colonel Grant, his companion, thought it resembled the Windermere Lake iu England. THE INQEZL 461 the "Wangwana on the shore urged the boat's crew to i878. ... . March 8. their Utmost power ^ ^ ^ ^^.^^^^_ The next day we began the circumnavigation of the mere Lak«. "Windermere. The extreme length of the lake during the rainy season is about eight miles, and its extreme breadth two and a half. It lies north and south, surrounded by grass-covered mountains which rise from 1200 to 1500 feet above it. There is one island called Kankorogo, situated midway between Mount Isossi and the extreme southern end. I sounded three times, and obtained depths of 48, 44, and 45 feet respectively at different points. The soil of the shores is highly ferruginous in colour, and, except in the vicinity of the villages, pro- duces only euphorbia, thorny gum, acacia, and aloetic plants. On the 9th we pulled abreast of Kankorogo Island, and, through a channel from 500 to 800 yards wide, directed our course to the Kagera, up which we had to contend against a current of two knots and a half c^n hour. The breadth of the river varied from 50 to 100 yards. The average depth of all the ten soundings we made on this day was 52 feet along the middle ; close to the papyrus walls, which grew like a forest above us, was a depth of 9 feet. Sometimes we caught a view of hip- popotamus creeks running up for hundreds of yards on either side through the papyrus. At Kagayyo, on the left bank, we landed for a short time to take a view of the scene around, as, while in the river, we could see nothing except the papyrus, the tops of the mountain ridges of Karagwe', and the sky. We then learned for the first time the true character of what we had imagined to be a valley when we gazed ^pon it from the summit of the mountain between Kafurro and Rumanika's capital. The Ingezi, as the natives called it, embraces the 462 TU ROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. ,^ 187(5. whole space from the base of the mountains of Miivnri March 9. ^^ ^j^^^. q£ ^j^^ Kaiagwc ridges with the river callel ngezi. j^j^gQ^jj^^ ^Q Funzo 01 the papyrus, and the Rweriis or lakes, of which there are seventeen, inclusive of Win- dermere. Its extreme width between the bases of the opposing mountains is nine miles ; the narrowest ])art is about a mile, while the entire acreage covered by it from Morongo or the falls in Ivvanda, north, to Uhinihn, south, is about 350 square miles. The Funzo or j>aj)vrus covers a depth of from 9 feet to 14 feet of water. I^Jacli of the several lakes has a depth of from 20 to G') feet, and they are all connected, as also is the river, uiKkr. neath thepa pyrus. When about three miles north of Kizinga, at 5 p.m., we drew our boat close to the papyrus, and pre- pared for our night's rest, and the Wanyambu did tlio same. . . > The boat's crew crushed down some of the serest papyrus, and, cutting off the broom-like tops, sprenJ their mats upon the heap thus made, flattering tliem- selves that they were going to have a cozy night of it Their fires they kindled between three stalks, wliicli sustained their cooking-pots. It was not a very suc- cessful method, as the stalks had to be replaced fie- quently ; but finally their bananas were done to a tniii. At night, however, mosquitoes of a most voracious species attacked them in dense multitudes, and iiotliiii;; but the constant flip-flap of the papyrus tops mingled with complaints that they were unable to sleep were heard for an hour or two. They then began to feel damp, and finally wet, for their beds were sinking into the depths below the papyrus, and they were com- pelled ut last to come into the boat, where they passjel a most miserable night, for the mosquitoes swarmed and attacked them until morning with all tlie peiti* nacity characteristic of thei^e hungry blood-suckers. inEMA ISLAND. 4G3 The next day, about noon, we discovered a narrow, ig-e. windiiiff creek, wliicli led us to a river-like lake, five *'""''' ^^ miles in length, out of which, through another creek, Uaai we punted our boats and canoes to the grazing island of Uiiyamubi. « From a ridge which was about 50 feet above the Iiin^ezi we found that we were, about four miles froni Kishiikka and a similar distance due east from a point of land projecting from Muvari. The next day we ascended the Kagera about ten miles, and returning fourteen miles entered Ihema Lake, a body of water about 50 square miles, and camped on Ihema Island, about a mile from Muvari. The natives of Ihema Island stated to me that Lake Miita Nzige was only eleven days' iourney from the Muvari shores, and that the Wanya-llaanda frequently visited them to obtain fish in exchange for milk and vegetables. They also stated that the Mworongo — or, as others called it, Nawarongo — river flows through the heart of Ruanda from the Ufumbiro mountains, and enters the Kagera in a south-west by west direc- tion from Ihema ; that the Akanyaru was quite a large lake, a three days' journey round in canoes, and separated Ruanda, Uhha, and Urundi from each other ; that there was an island in the midst, where canoes leaving Uhha were accustomed to rest at night, arriving in Ruanda at noon. They were a genial people those islanders of Ihema, but they were subject to two painful diseases, leprosy and elephantiasis. The island was of a shaly substruc- ture, covered with a scant depth of alluvium. The water of the Lake Ihema was good and sweet to the taste, though, like all the waters of the Alexandra Nile, distinguished for its dull brown iron colour. AVe began from the extreme south end of the lake the next day to coast along the Muvari or Ruanda coast, \^ 4G4 TIIROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. March 11. Kasinga. and near a small village attempted to land, but tlio natives snarled like so many spiteful dogs, and drew their bows, which compelled us— being guests of Ku- manika — to sheer off and leave them in their ferocious exclusiveness. Arriving at the Kagera again, we descended it, and at 7 P.M. were in our httle camp of Kasinga, at the south end of AVindermere. On the 11th we rowed into the Kagera, and de- scended the river as far as Ugoi, and on the evening of ^' A NATIVE OF UHHA. the 12th returned once more to our camp on Winder- mere. The next day, having instructed Frank to convey the boat to Kafurro, I requested Rumanika to furnish me with guides for the Mtagata hot springs, and, faithful to his promise, thirty Wamyambu were de- tailed for the service. Our route lay north along the crest ot a lofty rldg'c between Kafurro and Windermere. Wherever we looked, we beheld grassy ridges, grassy slopes, grassy mountain summits, and grassy valleys — an eminently VIEW or UF THE TRIPLE CONE OF UFUMBIRO. 465 pastoral country. In a few gorges or ravines the dark tops of trees were seen. AVhen Windermere Lake and Isossi, its northern mount, were south of us, we descended into a winding frrassy valley, and in our march of ten miles from Isossi to Kasya I counted thirty-two separate herds of cattle, which in the aggregate probably amounted to OOO head. We also saw seven rhinoceroses, three of which were white, and four a black brown. The iruldes wished me to shoot one, but I was scarce of ammunition, and as I could not get a certain shot, I 1870. March 13. Kasya. VIEW OF UFUMDIKO MOUNTAINS FROM MOUNT NEAR MTAGATA HOT SPRINGS. was loath to wound unnecessarily, or throw away a cartridge. Tlie next day, at 8 a.m., near the end of the valley, we came to Meruro Lake, which is about two miles long, and thence, crossing three different mountains, arrived at Kiwandare mountain, and from its summit, ■t(JOO feet above the sea, obtained a tolerably distinct view of the triple cone of Ufumbiro, in a west-nortli- west direction, Ma^^. I should estimate tlic distance from Kiwandare to Ufumbiro to be about forty-five miles, aud about sixty miles from the mountain height above 4G6 TimOUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. ■Slaich 15. Mtagata. Rumanika's capital. Several lines of mountnins, with lateral valleys between, rose between the valley of the Alexandra Nile and JJfurabiro. From Kiwandare we descended p^radually alono: its crest to a lower terrace,. About 5 p.m. one of our party sighted a dark brown double-horned rhinoceros, and as we had no meat, and the nature of the ground permit tud easy approach, I crept up to within fifty yards of it unperceived and sent in a zinc bullet close to the ear, which bowled it over dead. The quantity of meat obtained from the animal was more than would supply the eighteen men, Wangwaua, of ray party; therefore, acceding to their wisli, we camped on the spot, exposed to the chilly mountain winds, which visited us during the night. The men, however, continued to pick up abundance of fuel I'r^m a wooded gorge close by, and, engaged in the interesting and absorbing task of roasting meat before many blazing fires, did not suffer greatly. At 9 A.M. the next day we descended to the wooded gorge of Mtagata, having travelled thirty-five miles almost due north from Kafurro. This gorge is formed by an angle where the ex- treme northern end of Kiwandare mountain meets a transverse ridge. It is filled with tall trees which have been nourished to a gigantic size and density of foliage by the warm vapours from the springs and the heated earth. A thick under-growth of plants, llianes, and creepers of all sizes has sprung up under the shade of the aspiring trees, and the gloom thus caused within the gorge is very striking. I imagine a person would find it a most eerie place at night alone. Great baboons and long-tailed monkeys roared and chattered in the branches, causing the branches to sway and rustle as they chased one another from tree to tree. At the time of our visit the springs were frequented THE UOT SPUING S OF MTAOATA. 4G7 liv invalids from Iwanda, Ngoi, Kiziwa, Usongora, and i876. Usui, for, as may be believed, tliey have obtained a *'"'**''* '*• grtat repute throughout the districts of Karagwe and ''^''^** neighbouring countries. The springs are six in number, and at their extreme source they had, when I tested them, a temperature of 120|° Fahr. The bathing-pools, which are about 1 2 feet in diameter, and from 2 to 6 feet deep, showed a tem- perature of 110° Fahr., except one on the extreme north, which was only 107° Fahr. I bottled eight ounces of water from one of these Fprings, and on arriving in London sent it to Messrs. Savory and Moore, the well-known chemists, 143 Bond Street, who in a few days kindly returned me the following analysis : — " The fluid was clear, colourless, and odourless ; on standing at rest, a small quantity of red granular matter was deposited. " Examined chemically, it was found to have a faint alkaline reaction, and its specific gravity, corrected to 60" F., was 1004, water being con- fidered 1000. "One hundred grammes evaporated left a white crystalline residue, weighing • 37 of a gramme, and it was composed of sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, and sodium chloride; this order represents their proportions, sodium carbonate being the chief con- stituent, and the other salts existing in more minute quantities. " The deposit was removed and examined microchemically ; it was thus found to consist of ferruginous sand, and two minute pieces of vegetable cellulose. " It was therefore a faintly alkaline water, and its alkalinity depended on the presence of sodium carlx)nate possibly existing in solution as I'icarbonate, as the water held in solution carbonic acid gas, and this gas was evolved by heating the water."' Tlie natives praised the water of these springs oo ily that I resolved to stay three days to test in ray own person what virtues it possessed. I drank nn inormous quantity of the water with a zealous desire to be benefited, but I experienced no good — on the contrary, much ill, for a few days afterwards I suffered irom a violent attack of intermittent fever, occasioned, VOL. I. 2 I ' 1 I i i 1 ■1 '* i ^ ^^ liai' WM B ■B ■ 468 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. March 18. Mtagata. .^ ■^ I fancy, hy the malaria inhaled from the tepid atmo- sphere. It is true I luxuriated morning and evening in the bath which was reserved for me by Luajumba son of BuTiianika, but that was all the advantage that accrued to me. Patients suffering from cutaneous diseases profit rapidly from, I believe, the unusual cleanlinesr- and during the few days we camped here numbcxS of natives came and went, and merriment and cleansing, bathing and lounging, music and barbarous chanting, kept awake the echoes of the gorge. Our stay at the springs was cheered also by the presence of Luajumba, who, following the example of his father Ilumanika, was hospitable and bland in his manners. An ox, two goats, ten fowls, besides banana^^, sweet potatoes and flour, and fourteen large gourdfuls of maramba were received with thanks — and paid for. On the ISth March we set out on our return to Kafurro from the hot springs, and on the road I shot a white rhinoceros, which the people soon cut up to convey to their comrades. On the 19th we arrived at Kafurro,^ each of the Wangwana being loaded with over 20 lbs. of meat. After two days' rest I paid another visit to Rumanika, where we had a great geographical discussion. It is unnecessary to describe the information I had to give Rumanika respecting the geographical distribu- tion of tribes and races over the Dark Continent, but conscious that the geographical world will take au interest in what Rumanika and the native travellers at his court imparted, I here append, verbatim, the notes I took upon the spot. Hamed Ibrahim spoke and said : — " My slavos have travelled far, and they say that the Ni-Xawaronpo Biver rises on the west side of Ufumbiro mountains, takes a witlc swoop throuj^h Euanda, and enters Akanyaru, in which lake it meets tin Kagcra from the south. United they then empty from the lake betwcea TEE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF KAIiAGWE. 409 TJIiha and Kishakka, and, flowing between Karagwe and Huanda, go into the Nianza (Nyanza). " The Ewizi River, also rising at the northern base of the Ufurabiro cones, in Mpororo, flows through Igara, then Shema, then Ankori, into the king of Koki's (Luampula) lake, and becoming the Chibarre or Kiwcare River, joins the Kagera below Kitangule. " If you proceed tov;ard sunset from Mpororo, you will see Muta Nzigo, the Nianza of Unyoro. There are many large islands in it. Utumbi is a conntry of islands, and the natives are very good, but you cannot proceed through Mpororo, as the people are Shaitans— devils— and the W'anya-Ruanda are wicked ; and because something happened when ■\Viuigwana first tried to go there, they never tolerate strangers. A strange people, and full of guile verily ! " West of Ruanda is a country called Mkinyaga, and there is a large lake there, so I have heard — no Ai'abs have ever been there." Then a native of Western Usui, at the request of Rumanika, said: — " Mkinyaga is west of Kivu Lake or Nianja Cha Ngoma, from which the Eusizi River flows into the lake of Uzige (Tanganika). To reach Mkinyaga, you must pass through Unyambungu first, then you will see the great Lake of Mkinyaga. Lake Kivu has a connection with the lake Akanyaru, though there is much grass, as in the Ingezi, below here. A canoe could almost reach Kivu from Kishakka, but it would be hard work. " Akanyaru, which the Wahhti call Nianja Cha-Ngoma, is very wide. It will take a day and a half to cross, and is about two or three days' canoe journey in length. It lies between Ruanda, Uhha, and Uruudi. The Kagera coming from between Uhha and Urundi flows into it. The Nawarongo empties into the Ruvuvu between Ugufu and Kishakka. The Ruvuvu between Kishakka and Karagw6 enters the Kagera; the Kagera comes into the Ingezi, ard flows by Kitangule into the Nianja of Tganda. Kivu lake is west-south-west from Kibogora's capital, in West Usui. Kivu has no connection with Muta Nzige, the lake of Unyoro." Then a native of Zanzibar who had accompanied Khamis bin Abdallah to North-Western Uhha said : — " I have been west of King Khanza's Uhha, and I saw a large lake. Truly there is much water there. Urundi was to my left. Ruanda fronted me across, and I stood on Uhha." Rumanika followed, and imparted at length all his information, of which I append only the pith : — "Leaving Mpororo, you may reach by canoes Makinda's, in Utumbi, in blf a day. The island is called Kabuzzi. Three hours will take a canoe 2 I 2 1876. March 21. Kiifurro. in i 470 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. jgyg thence to Karara Island, and from Karara Island another half-day will March 21, take you to Ukonju, where there is a tribe of cannibals. Kafuno. " Mkinyaga is at the end of Ruanda, and its lake is Muta Nzige, on which you can go to Unyoro. There is a race of dwarfs somewhere west of Mkinyaga called the Mpundu, and another called the Batwa or Watwa, who are only two feet high. In Uriambwa is a race of small people with tails. " Uitwa, or Batwa — Watwa, is at the extreme south end of Uzongora. " From Butwa, at the end of a point of land in Ruanda, you can see Uitwa Usongora. " From Butwa, Mkinyagu is to the left of you about three days' journey. " Some of the Waziwa saw a strange people in one of those far-off lands who had long ears descending to their feet; one ear formed a mat to Bleep on, the other served to cover him from the cold like a dressed hide! They tried to coax one of ihoni to come and see me, but the journey was long, and he died on the way." Dear old Riimanika, how lie enjoyed presidii\i^ over the Geograpl iCal Society of Karagwe', and how he smiled when he delivered this last extraordinary piece of Miinchhausenism ! He was determined that he should be considered as the best informed of all present, and anticipated with delight the pleasure old and jaded Europe would feel upon hearing of these marvellous fables of Equatorial Africa. He was also ambitious to witness ray notebook filled with his garrulity, and I fear he was a little disposed to impose upon the credulity of sober Christians. However, with this remark of caution to the reader, his fables may be rendered harmless, and we can accord him thanks for his interesting information. Since I am publishing these geographical items, I may as well append here, also in brief, some other information obtained elsewhere relating to Muta Nzige from a native of Usongora, whom we found at Kawanga with Sekajugu, one of the Watongoleh who accompanied us to Beatrice Gulf, " When you leave Ruoko in Unyoro, you will have Gambaragara !>/ your right, and Usagara or Ankori will be on your left. Uzimba, Euigi's country, will be four days' journey west of you. "On reaching Uzimba, if you turn to tho left you will reach Luliola, Usongora will be on your right hand. THE PniLO SOPHY OF NOSES. 471 11 reach Lubola. " On your left will also be Unyampaka, Kasita, Kishakka, Chakiomi, Nytere, Buhuju, Makara, Unyamururu, Mimya Cliambiro, and the Bwambu, who are cannibals. " If you go to your right from Ruigi's, you reach Usongora, Mata, two days after Nabweru, then Butwa. Standing at Butwa, you will sea Euanda on the left hand. " Tlie country of Ruigi is called Uzimba. " Kitagwenda is the name of the neighbouring country. " Unyanuruguru lies between Ruanda and Usongora. " All the Wasongora emigrated from Unyoro." The following is information from a native of Unyampaka upon Muta Nzige ; — " My king's name is Buleraa. Kashoshe is the great king of TJzimba. Paiigi is dead. Usongora, as you look towards sunset, will lie before you, as you stand at Kasheshu'" To go to Usongora from Kashoshe's, you go to Nkoni Island, then to Ihu. ^di Island, and then to Usongora. " Far to your left, as yc i face the sunset, you have Utumbi, the Mahinda, Karara, and Kabuzzi Islands. " There is abundance of salt in Usongora, and we go from Unyampaka (my country) to get salt, and sell it to all the country round. Ankori country does not extend to Muta iS /ige. Buhuju and Uuyamuruguru lie Mween Ankori and the lake. "Nyika is king of Gambaragara and Usongora. North of Gambaragara is Toru, or Tori, country, a part of Unyoro. Kabba Rega is the great king of all those lands. The medicines (charms) of Unyoro are kept by Nyika on the top of his high mountain. There are as many white people there as there are black. On the top there is a little Nianja, and a straight rock rises high out from the middle. There is plenty of water falling from the sides of the mountain, sometimes straight down, with a loud noise. Herds upon herds of cattle, hundreds of them are in Gambaragara and Usongora. The people of Usongora are great fighters, they carry three spears and a shield each, and they live on nothing but milk and potatoes." I now proceed to give some "reflections" of a young philosopher of Uganda, one of the pages of Sambuzi, who had accompanied his master in the Katekiro's great raid upon Usongora three years before. ' This young lad startled me out of the idea that pliilosophizi ng was not a common gift, or that only members of the white race were remarkable for their powers of observation, by the following question : — " Stamlee, how is it, will you tell me, that all white 1876. March 21. Kafurro. .1 • r . 472 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. JIarch 21. Kafurro. men have long noses, while all their dogs have very short noses,* while almost all black men have short noses, but their dogs have very long noses ? " • A youth of Uganda, thought I, who can propound such a proposition as that, deserves attention. *^ Speak," I said, " all you know about Muta Nzlo-o and the Kagera." "Good, you see the Kagera, it is broad and deep and swift, and its water though dark is clear. Where can it come from? There is au enormous quantity of water in that river. It is the mother of the river at Jinga, because were it not for this river our Niyanza would dry up ! " Tell me where it can come from ? There is no country large enough to feed it, because when you reach Rumanika's it is still a large river. If you go to Kishakka, farther south, it is still large, and at Kibogora's it is still a large river. Urundi is not far, and beyond that is tlio Tanganika. " Tell me, where does the water of the Muta Nzige go to ? It goes into the Kagera, of course ; the Kagera goes into our Niyanza, and the river at Jinja (Victoria Nile) goes to Kaniessa (Gondokoro). I tell you truly that this must be the way of it. You saw the Rusango and Mpauga, ditl you not, go to Muta Nzige ? Well, there must be many rivers like that going to Muta Nzige also. And what river drinks all those rivers but the Kagera ? " he asked triumphantly, " Usongora is a wonderful land ! Its people are brave, and when the Katekiro, who was accompanied by Mkwcnda and Sskebobo's chiefs, and some of Kitunzi's, met them, they were different people from Gambaragara. They are very tall, long-legged people, and are armed with spears ami shields. They tried every dodge with us. When we stood on the banks of a river going north, through the Tinka-tinka, like that in the Katonga, the Wasongora stood on the opposite side and shouted out to us that they were ready. Sambuzi came near being killed next day, and we lost many men, but the Katekiro, he does not fight like other chiefs, he is exceed- ingly brave, and he wanted to please Mtesa. We fought six days. " The Wasongora had a number of large dogs also which they set upon us; as we drove their cattle towards Gambaragara, the earth shook, springs of mud leaped up, and the water in the plain was very bitter, and killed many Waganda; it left a white thing around its borders like salt. " We first saw Muta Nzige m we followed Nyika to the top of his big mountain in Gambaragara. We could not quite get to the top, it was too high." (This is Mount Gordon-Bennett.) " But we could see Usongora, manner • The young philosopher had observed the broad short noses of my British bull-dog and bull terrier " Jack," and he had hastily anived at the conclusion that all white men's dogs were pug-nosed. RUMANIKA'S THESAVRON. 473 and a p^eat lake spreading all round it. When we came back with our jg^g spoil to Mtesa. he sent us back a short time afterwards to Ankori, and from March 21. Die top of a high mountain near Kibanga (Mount Lawson) we saw Muta Kafurro. >'zigr' again spreading west of us. Oh, it is a grand lake, not so wide as our Niyanza, but very long. We get all our salt from Usongora, as Nyika pays tribute to us with so many bags, collected from the plains, but it is unfit to eat, unless you wash it and clean it." This young lad accompanied me to Karagw^, and by his intelligence and his restless curiosity extracted from the Wanyambu courtiers at King Rumanika's informa- tion wliich he delivered to me in the following manner: — - . ■ • "Master, I have been asking questions from many Wanyambu, and tliey say that you can take a canoe from here to Ujiji, only a certain distance you will have to drag your canoes by land. They say also that Nelagara, Rumanika's father, wishing to trade with the Wajiji, tried to cut a canal or a ditch for his canoes to pass through. They Su,y also that Kivu is connected with Akanyaru, and that the Eusizi leaves Kivu and goes to Tanganika through Uzige, but the Kagera comes through Karagwe towards Uganda. Do you believe it?" To close the interesting day, Rumanika requested Hamed Ibrahim to exhibit the treasures, trophies, and curiosities in the king's museum or armoury, which Hamed was most anxious to do, as he had frequently extolled the rare things there. The armoury was a circular hut, resembling externally a dome thatched neatly with straw. It was about 30 feet in diameter. The weapons and articles, of brass and copper and iron, were in perfect order, and showed that Rumanika did not neglect his treasures. There were ao.. '^ sixteen rude brass figures of ducks with copper wings, ten curious things of the same metal which were meant to represent elands, and ten headless cows of copper. Billhooks of iron, of really admirable make, double-])laded spears, several gigantic blades of exceedingly keen edge, 8 inches across and 18 inches in length, exquisite spears, some with blades and 474 THROUQIl THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. Alarch 21. Kafurro, staves of linked iron ; others with chain-shaped staves and several with a cluster of small rigid rings massed at the bottom of the Llade and the end of the staff; others, copper-oladed, had curious intertwisted iron rods for the staff. There were also great fly-flaps set in iron, the handles of which were admirable specimens of native art; massive cleaver-looking knives, with polished blades and a kedge-anchor-shapcd article with four hooked iron prongs, projecting out of a brass body. Some exquisite native cloths, miinn- factured of delicate grass, were indeed so fine as to vie with cotton sheeting, and were coloured black GROUND PLAN OF KING's HOUSE and red, in patterns and stripes. The royal stool was a masterpiece of native turnery, being carved out of a solid log of cotton-wood. Besides these specimens of native art were drinking-cups, goblets, trenchers, and milk dishes of wood, all beautifully clean. The fireplace was a circular hearth in the centre of the building, very tastefully constructed. Ranged round the wall along the floor were other gilts from Arab friends, massive copper trays, with a few tureen lids of Britannia ware, evidently h'om Birmingham. Nor must the revolving rifle given to him by Captain Speke be forgotten, for it had an ed staves!, ^s massed the staff; sted iron r-flaps set specimens A'es, with 3d article out of a IS, mami- fine as to ired black royal stool o* carved sides these ps, goblets, beautifully rth in the jonstructed. other gifts with a few 3ntly ft'o™ le given to it had an 476 TIIROUOn THE DAIiK CONTINENT. 1876. honoured place, and Rumanika loves to look at it March 26. ^^^ j^ recalls to his memory the figures of his genial White friends Speke and Grant. The enormous drums, fifty-two in number, ranged outside, enabled us, from their very appearance, to guess at the deafening sounds which celebrate the new moou or deliver the signals for war. My pai.ing with the genial old man, who must be about sixty years old now, was very affecting. He shook my hands many times, saying each time that he was sorry that my visit must be so short. He strictly charged his sons to pay me every attention until I should arrive at Kibogora's, the king of Western Usui, who, he was satisfied, would be glad to see me as a friend of Rumanika. On the 26th March the Expedition, after its month's rest at Kafurro, the whole of which period I had spent in exploration of "Western Karagwe, resumed its journey, and after a march of five miles camped at Nakawanga, near the southern base of Kibonga mountain. The next day a march of thirteen miles brought us to the northern extremity of Uhimba lake, a broad river-like body of water supplied by the Alexandra Nile. On the 27th I had the good fortune to shoot three rhinoceroses, from the bodies of which we obtained ample supplies of meat for our journey through the wilderness of Uhimba. One of these enormous brutes possessed a horn 2 feet long, with a sharp dagger- like point below, a stunted horn, 9 inches in length. He appeared to have had a tussle with some wild beast, for a hand's breadth of hide was torn from his rump. The Wangwana and "Wanyambu informed me with the utmost gravity that the elephant maltreats the rhinoceros frequently, because of a jealousy that the . i ' ok at it, lis genial f, raDgcd , to guess lew moon must be iiig. He le that ho [e strictly Q until I tern Usui, 3 me as a after its 1 period I e, resumed camped Kibonga es )rought ug a broad .lexandra lioot three obtained I rough the lous brutes Ip dagger- lin length, qld beast, his rump, me with Itreats the that the itniNOCEnoa v. elephant. 417 former entertains of his fiery cousin. It is said that if tlie elephant observes the excrement of the rhinoceros unscattered, he waxes furious, and proceeds instantly in search of the criminal, wljen woe befall him if he is sulky, and disposed to battle for the proud privilege of leaving his droppings as they fall ! The elephant in thatv case breaks off a heavy brancli of a tree, or uproots a stout sapling like a boat's mast, and belabours the unfortunate beast until he is glad to save liimself by hurried flight. For this reason, the natives say, the rhinoceros always turns round and thoroughly scatters what he has dropped. Should a rhinoceros meet an elephant, he must observe the rule of the road and walk away, for the latter brooks no rivalry ; but the former is sometimes headstrong, and the elephant then despatches him with his tusks by forcing him against a tree and goring him, or by upsetting him, and leisurely crushing liira. At the distance of twenty-six miles from Kafurro we made our third camp near some wave-worn sheets and jaotruding humps of brown-veined porphyry, and close to an arm of the Uhimba lake, which swarmed with hippopotami. There were traces of water or wave action on this hard porphyry visible at about fifty feet above the present level. Some of these humps were exposed in the water also, and showed similar effects to those observed behind our camp. During the next two days we travelled twenty-seven miles south through a depression, or a longitudinal valley, parallel to Uhimba lake and the course of the Alexandra, with only an intervening ridge excluding the latter from our view. Tall truncated hill-cones rise ^^ery now and then with a singular resemblance to ^ach other, to the same altitude as the grassy ridges 1876. March 27. Uhimba Lak«. •I 478 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. which flank them. Their summits are flat, but tlie uv*^\^^' ii'o^-stone faithfully indicates by its erosions the element which separated them from the ridges, and first furrowed the valley. Uhimba, placed by Rumanika in the charge of liis sons Kakoko, Kananga, and Ruhinda, is sixty-eiglit miles south of his capital, and consists of a few settle- ments of herdsmen. It was, a few years ago, a debatable land between Usui and Karagwe, but upon the conquest of Kishakka by Ruanda, Rumanika occupied it lest his jealous and ill-conditioned rival, Mankorongo of Usui, should do so. At this place I met messengers from Mankorongo, despatched by him to invite me to go and see him, and who, with all the impudence characteristic of their behaviour to the Arabs, declared that if I attempted to traverse any country in his neighbourhood without paying him the compliment of a visit, it would be mj utter ruin ! They were sent back with a peaceful me?^sage, and told to say that I was bound for Kibogora's capital, to try and search out a road across Urundi to the west, and that if I did not succeed I would tliink of ^lan- korongo's words ; at the same time, Mankorongo wa? - to be sure that if I was waylaid in the forest by any large armed party with a view to intimidation, that party would be sorry for it. I had heard of Mankoro.igo's extortions from Arabs and Waganda, and how he had proved himself a worthy successor to the rapacious Swarora, who caused so much trouble to Speke and Grant. During the second day of our courteous intercourse with Kakoko, I ascended a mount some 600 feet higli about three miles from camp, to take bearings of tlie several features which Kananga was requested to show me. Five countries were exposed to view, Karagwe, FAG ANUS, VAjR. ESURIEN8. 479 March 30. Kishakka, Ruanda beyond, Ugufu, and Usui. Parallel i876. with Usui was pointed out King Khanza's Uhha ; beyond Uhha we were told was Urundi ; beyond Urundi, west, the Tanganika and Uzige, and then nobody knew what lands lay beyond Uzige. Akanyaru stretched south of west, between Ruanda, Uhha, and Urundi ; in a south-west direction was said to be Kivu ; in a west bv north Mkinyaga, and in the west Unyambungn. Ugufu was separated from Kishakka by the 'Kawarongo or Ruvuvu, and from Uhha and Usui by the Alexandra Nile which came from between Uhha and Urundi. A river of some size was also said to flow from the direction of Unyambungu into the Akanyaru.* The next day we entered Western Usui, and camped at Kafurra's. In Usui there was a famine, and it required thirty-two doti of cloth to purchase four days' rations. Kibogora demanded and obtained thirty doti, one coil of wire, and forty necklaces of beads as tribute ; Kafurra, his principal chief, demanded ten doti and a quantity of beads ; another chief required five doti ; the queen required a supply of cloth to wear ; the princes put in a claim ; the guides were loud for their reward. Thus, in four days, we were compelled to disburse two bales out of twenty-two, all that were left of the immense store we had departed with from Zanzibar. Under such circumstances, what prospect of exploration liad we, were we to continue our journey through Uhha, that land which in 1871 had consumed at the rate of two bales of cloth per diem ? Twenty days of such experience in Uhha would reduce us to beggary. Its " esurient " Mutware's and rapacious Mkamas and other extortionate people can only be quieted with cloth and beads disbursed with a princely hand. One * I learned from "Warundi and Wazigd, three months later, that tlio river that came from the west was the liuanda, flowing into the Eusizi, tiitnee into the Tanganika. i-:^^" 480 TUROUGE THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. April 7. Ujagoma. hundred bales of cloth would only suffice to sustain a hundred men in Uhha about six weeks. Be^'ond Uhha lay the impenetrable countries of Urundi and Euanda, the inhabitants of which were hostile to strangers. Kibogora and Kafurra were sufficiently explicit and amiably communicative, for my arrival in their country had been under the very best auspices, viz. an introduc- tion from the gentle and beloved Rumanika. I turned away with a sigh from the interesting land, but with a resolution gradually being intensified, that the third time I sought a road west nothing should deter me. On the 7th April we reluctantly resumed our journey in a southerly direction, and travelled five miles along a ravine, at the bottom of which murmured the infant stream Lohugati. On coming to its source we ascended a steep slope until we stood upon the summit of a grassy ridge at the height of 5600 feet by aneroid. Not until we had descended about a mile to the valley of Uyagoma did I recognize the importance of this ridge as the water-parting between one of the feeders of Lake Victoria and the source of the Malagarazi, the principal affluent of Lake Tanganika. Though by striking across Uhha due west or to tlie south-west we should again have reached the Alexandra Nile and the affluents of the Alexandra Lake, our future course was destined never to cross another stream or rivulet that supplied the great river which flows through the land of Egypt into the Mediterranean Sen. From the 17th January 1875 up to 7th April 187G we had been engaged in tracing the extreme soutlierii sources of the Nile, from the marshy plains and culti- vated uplands where they are born, down to the mighty reservoir called the Victoria Nyanza. We had circum- BETROSPECT. 481 navigated the entire expanse ; penetrated to every bay, inlet, and creek ; become acquainted with almost every variety of wild human nature — the mild and placable, tlie ferocious and impracticably savage, the hospitable and the inhospitable, the generous-souled as well as the ungenerous ; we had viewed their methods of war, and liad witnessed them imbruing their hands in each other's blood with savage triumph and glee ; we had been five times sufferers by their lust for war and raiirJer, and had lost many men through their lawless- ness and ferocity ; we had travelled hundreds of miles to and fro on foot along the northern coast of the Victorian Sea, and, finally, had explored with a large force the strange countries lying between the two lakes Muta Xzige' and the Victoria, and had been permitted to gaze upon the arm of the lake named by me " Beatrice Gulf," and to drink of its sweet waters. We had then returned from farther quest in that direction, unable to find a peaceful resting-place on the lake shores, and had struck south from the Katonga lagoon down to the Alexandra Nile, the principal affluent of the Victoria Lake, which drains nearly all the waters from the west and south- west. We had made a patient survey of over one-half of its course, and then, owing to want of the means to feed the rapacity of the churlish tribes which dwell in the vicinity of the Alexandra Nyanza, and to our rehictance to force our way against the will of the natives, opposing unnecessarily our rifles to their spears and arrows, we had been compelled, on the 7th April, to bid adieu to the lands which supply the Nile, and to turn our faces towards the Tanganika. I have endeavoured to give a faithful portrayal of Mture, animate and inanimate, in all its strange peculiar phases, as they were unfolded to us. I am ciiscious that I have not penetrated to the depths; till hen I have not ventured be^'ond the limits 1876. April 7. Uyagoua. 48^ TEBOUGH TEE EASE CONTINENT. 1878. April 7. Ujagoma. f' assigned me, viz. the Exploration of the Southern Sources of the Nile, and the solution of the problem left unsolved by Speke and G-rant — Is the Victoria Nyanza* one lake, or does it consist of five lakos, as reported by Livingstone, Burton, and others? This problem has been satisfactorily solved, and Speke lias now the full glory of having discovered the largest inland sea on the continent of Africa, also its prin- cipal affluent, as well as the outlet. I must also give him credit for having understood the geography of the countries he travelled through better than any of those who so persistently assailed his hypothesis, and I here record my admiration of the geographical genius that from mere native report first sketched with such a masterly hand the bold outlines of the Yictoria Nyanza. * Spoke's hyp'^thetic sketch made this lake 29,000 square miles in extent. My survey of it has reduced it to 21,500 square miles. TEE TWIN BIVER3. 483 CHAPTER XYIII. The \vrin rivers — Mankorongo baulked of his loot — Poor Bull ! True to the death — Msenna breaks out again — The terror of Africa ai)])ears on the scene — Mars at peace — "Dig potato^-d, potatoes, potatoes" — Mirambo, the bandit chief, and I make blood-brother- hood — Little kings •with " big heads " — Practical conversion of the chief of Ubagwe — The Watuta, the Ishmaels of Africa — Their history — African nomenclature — From Msene across the Mala- garazi to Ujiji — Sad memories. Along the valley of Uyagoma, in Western Usui, Arlf^ iitretches east and west a grass-covered ridge, beautiful uyagom* in places with rock-strewn dingles, tapestried with ferns and moss, and bright with vivid foliage. From two such fair nooks, halfway down either slope, the northern and the southern, drip in great rich drops the sources of two impetuous rivers — on the southern tlie Malagarazi, on the other the Lohugati. Though nurtured in the same cradle, and issuing within 2000 yards of one another, the twin streams are strangers tliroiigliout their lives. Through the thick ferns and foliage, the rivulets trickle each down his appointed flope, murmuring as they gather strength to run their destined course — the Lohugati to the Victoria Lake, tlie Malagarazi to distant Tanganika. While the latter river is in its infancy, collecting its first tribute of waters from the rills that meander down ficm the mountain folds round the basin of Uyagoma, and is so shallow that, tiny children can paddle through It, the people of Usui call it the Meruzi. When we Wgin our journey from Uyagoma, we follow itsbroaden- VOL. I. 2 k f.T. 5 . 484 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. April 8. Kyambarri. ing course for a couple of hours, through the basin, and by that time it has become a river nomine dignum^ and, plunging across it, we begin to hreast the moun- tains, which, rising in diagonal lines of ridges from north-east to south-west across Usui, run in broken series into Northern Uhha, and there lose themselves in ;i confusion of complicated masses and clumps. The Meruzi wanders round and through these moun- tain masses in mazy curves, tumbles from height to height, from terrace to terrace, receiving as it goes the alliance of myriads of petty rivulets and threads of clear water, until, arriving at the grand forest lands of Unya- mwezi, it has assumed the name of Lukoke, and serves as a boundary between Unyamwezi and Uhha. Meanwhile we have to cross a series of mountain ridges clothed with woods ; and at a road leading from Kibogora's land to the territory of the turbulent and vindictive Mankorongo, successor of Swarora, we meet an embassy, which demands, in a most insolent tone, that we should pass by his village. This means, of course, that we must permit ourselves to be defrauded of two or three bales of cloth, half a dozen guns, a sack or two of beads, and such other property as he may choose to exact, for the privilege of lengthening our journey some forty miles, and a delay of two or three weeks. The insolent demand is therefore not to be enter- tained, and we return a decided refusal. They are not satisfied with the answer, and resort to threats. Threats in the free, uninhabited forest constitute a casm belli. So the chiefs are compelled to depart without a yard of cloth on the instant, and after their depar- ture we urge our pace until night, and from dawn next morning to 3 p.m. we continue the journey with un- abated speed, until we find ourselves in Nyambarri. Usambiroj rejoiced to find that we have foiled the dangerous king. TBUE TO TEE DEATH, 485 f mountain lading from rbulent and ra, we meet solent tone, s means, of lefrauded of s, a sack or may cbooso lur iournev ;ee weets. ;o be enter- They are to threats, tiito a casm lart without their depav- dawn next Ly with un- Nyamharri. foiled tlie 1876. On the 13th April we halted to refresh the people. Usambiro, like all Unyamvvezi, produces sufficient grain, j^.^"'J^' sesamum, millet, Indian corn, and vetches, besides beans and peas, to supply all caravans and expeditions. I have observed that lands producing grain are more easy of access than pastoral countries, or those which only supply milk, bananas, and potatoes to their inhabitants. At Nyambarri we met two Arab caravans fresh from Mankorongo, of whom they gave fearful accounts, from which I inferred that the extortionate chief would be by no means pleased when he came to understand how he had been baffled in his idea of spoliating our Expedition. Here the notorious Msenna for the third time rup- tured the peace. He was reported to be inciting a largo number of Wangwana and Wanyamwezi to desert in a body, offering himself as guide to conduct them to Unyanyembe ; and several young fellows, awed by his ungovernable temper and brutal disposition, had yielded to his persuasions. Msenna was therefore reduced to the ranks, and instead of being entrusted with the captaincy of ten men, was sentenced to carry a box, under the watchful eye of Kacheche, for a period of six months. During the march from Nyambarri to Gambawagao, the chief village of Usambiro, ancient " Bull," the last of all the canine companions which left England with me, borne down by weight of years and a land journey of about 1500 miles, succumbed. With bulldog tenacity he persisted in following the receding figures of the gun-bearers, who were accustomed to precede liim in the narrow w-ay. Though he often staggered and moaned, he made strenuous efforts to keep up, but at last, lying down in the jiath, he plaintively bemoaned the weakness of body that had conquered his will, and soon after died — his eyes to the last looking forward along tlie track he had so bravely tried to follow. 2 K 2 ^^ y- 486 THROUGH THE DARE CONTINENT. .^' i 1876. Poor dog ! Good and faithful service had he done April 14. j^g I ■y^'ho more rejoiced than he tO hear the rifle-shot * ringing through the deep woods ! Who more loudly applauded success than he with his deep, mellow bark ! What long forest-tracts of tawny plains and series of mountain ranges had he not traversed ! Hot he plunged through iungl^ ani fen, morass and stream! In the eable blacki. 'S*? ol' the night his voice warned off marauders and pr that we hiid Ihe king, also ission. tst of Boma \ the country of Urangwa. On the 18th April, a march of fifteen istg. miles enabled us to reach the capital, Ndeverva, another ^j'"' ^^" kirge stockaded village, also provided with *' marksmen's nests," and surrounded by a fosse. We were making capital marches. The petty kings, though tliey exacted a small interchange of gifts, which " BULL." (^From a photograph by the Author.') compelled me to disburse cloth a little more frequently than was absolutely necessary, w^ere not insolent, nor so extortionate as to prevent our intercourse being of the most friendly character. But on the day we arrived at Crangwa, lo ! there came up in haste, while we were sociably chatting together, a messenger to tell us that t'le phantom, the bngbear, the terror whose name silences the children of Unyamwezi and Usukuma, and '•uukes women's hearts bound with fear ; that Mirambo 488 THROUGU THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. April 18. Mdeverva. liim':{elf was coming — that he was only two canipfj, or about twenty miles, away — that he had an immense array of Ruga-Ruga (bandits) with him I The consternation at this news, the dismay and ex- citement, the discussion and rapid interchange of ideas suggested by terror throughout the capital, may be conceived. Barricades were prepared, sharp-shooters' platforms, with thick bulwarks of logs, were erected. Tlie women hastened to prepare their charms, the Waganga consulted their spirits, each warrior and elder examined his guns and loaded them, ramming the powder down the barrels of their Brummagem muskets with desperately vengeful intentions, while the Vm^ hastened backwards and forwards with streaming robes of cotton behind him, animated by a hysterical energy. I had 175 men under my command, and forty of the Arabs' people were with me, and we had many boxes of ammunition. The king recollected these facts, and said, " You will stop to fight Mirambo, will you not?" " Not I, my friend ; I have no quarrel with Mirambo, and we cannot join every native to fight his neigliboiw. If Mirambo attacks the village while I am here, and will not go away when I ask him, we will fight, but we cannot stop here to wait for him." The poor king was very much distressed when we left the next morning. We despatched our scouts ahead. as we usually did when traversing troublous countries, and omitted no precaution to guard against surprise. On the 19th we arrived at one of the largest villages or towns in Unyamwezi, called Serombo or Sorombo. It was two miles and a half in circumference, and probably contained over a thousand large and small huts, and a population of about 5000. The present king's name is Ndega, a boy of sixteen, the son of Makaka, who died about two years ago. Too young himself to govern the large settlement and MAJRS AT PEACE. 489 tlie country round, two elders, or Manyapara, act as iep:cnts during his minority. We were shown to a pecuhar-shaped liut, extremely like an Abyssinian dwelling, "i'lie height of the door- way was 7 feet, and from the floor to the toj) of the conical roof it was 20 feet. The walls were of inter- woven sticks, j)lastered over neatly with brown clay. The king's house was 30 feet high from the ground to ilio tip of the cone, and 40 feet in diameter within ; but the total diameter including the circular fence or palisade that supported the broad caves, and enclosed a gallery which ran round the house, was 54 feet. 1876. Aiuil 19, Serombo, SEUOMBO HUTS. Owing to this peculiar construction a desperate body of 150 men might from the circular gallery sustain a protracted attack from a vastly superior foe, ard pro- hably repel it. NJega is a relative of Mirambo by marriage, and he soon quieted all uneasy minds by announcing that the iainoiis man who was now advancing upon Serombo had just concluded a peace with the Arabs, and that there- fore no trouble was to be apprehended from his visit, it heing solely a friendly visit to his young relative. Kiturally we were all anxious to behold the " Mars of Africa," who since 1871 has made his name feared i \ II 490 THROUOn THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. April 20. Serombo. .^" by both native and foreigner from Usui to Urorl, and from Uvinza to Ugogo, a country embracing 90,000 square miles, wbo, from the village chieftainship over Uyoweh, has made for himself a name as well known as that of Mtesa throughout the eastern half of Equa- torial Africa, a household word from Nyangwe to Zanzibar, and the theme of many a song of the bards of Unyamwezi, Ukimbu, Ukonongo, Uzinja, and Uvinza. On the evening of our arrival at Serombo*s we heard his Brown Besses — called by the natives Gumeli- Gumeh — announcing to all that the man with the dread name lay not far from our vicinity. At dusk the huge drums of Serombo signalled silence for the town-criers, whose voices, preceded by the sound of iron bells, were presently heard crying out : — " Listen, men of Serombo. Mirambo, the brother of Ndega, cometh in the morning. Be ye prepared, therefore, for his young men are hungry. Send jour women to dig potatoes, dig potatoes. Mirambo cometh. Dig potatoes, potatoes, dig potatoes, to-morrow ! " At 10 A.M. the Brown Besses, heavily charged and fired off by hundreds, loudly heralded Mirambo's ap- proach, and nearly all my Wangwana followed the inhabitants of Serombo outside to see the famous chief- tain. Great war-drums and the shouts of admiring thousands proclaimed that he had entered the town, and soon little Mabruki, the chief of the tent-boys, and Kacheche, the detective, on whose intelligence I could rely, brought an interesting budget to me. Mabruki said : " Wo have seen Mirambo. He has arrived. "We have beheld the Ruga-Kuga, and there are many of them, and all are armed with Gumeh- Gumeh. About a hundred are clothed in crimson cloth and white shirts, like our "Wangwana. Mirambo is not an old man." Kache'che said : " Mirambo is not old, he is young : I THE BANDIT CHIEF. 491 must be older than he is. lie is a very nice man, i87r,. well dressed, quite like an Arab. He wears the turban, ''" ^** fez, and cloth coat of an Arab, and carries a scimitar. He also wears slippers, and his clothes under his coat are very white. I should say he has about a thou- sand and a half men with him, and they arc all armed with muskets or double-barrelled guns, Mirambo has tliree young men carrying his guns for him. Truly, Minuiibo is a great man ! " The shrill Lu-lu-lu's, prolonged and loud, were still maintained by the women, who entertained a great respect for the greatest king in Unyamwezi. Presently Manwa Sera, the chief captain of the Wangwana, came to my hut, to introduce three young men —Ruga-Ruga (bandits), as wo called them, but must do so no more lest we give offence — handsomely dressed in fine red and blue cloth coats, and snowy white shirts, with ample turbans around their heads. They were con- fidential captains of Miram- bo's bodyguard. " Mirambo sends his sa- laams to the white man/' said the principal of them. '• He hopes the white man is friendly to him, and that he does not share the prejudices of the Arabs, and believe Mirambo a bad man. If it is agreeable to the white man, will he send words of peace to Mirambo ?'* " Tell Mirambo," I replied, " that I am eager to see him, and would be glad to shake hands with so great a man, and as I have made strong friendship v/ith Mtesa, Rumanika, and all the kings along the road A "euga-ruga," one of MinAMBO'S PATRIOTS. 4L^2 THROUGH TEE DARK CONTINENT. J 876. April 22. Sarombo. from Usoga to (Jnyamwezi, I j;hall be rejoiced to male strong friendship with Mirambo also. Tell him I Lope he will come and see me as sooq as he can." The next day Mirambo, having despatched a Riiga- Ruga — no, a patriot, I should have said — to announce his coming, appeared wiili about twenty of his principal men. I shook hands with him with fervour, which drew a smile from him as he said, " The white man shakes hands like a strong friend." His person quite captivated me, for he was a thorougli African gentleman in appearance, very different from ray conception of the terrible bandit who had struck his telling blows at native chiefs and Arabs with all the rapidity of a Frederick the Great environed by foes. I entered the following notes in my journal on April 22, 187G :-- " This day will be memorable to mo for the visit of tlie famous Mirambo, Ho was the reverse of all my cone ■'ptions of the redoubtable chieftain, and Vre man I had styled the ' terrible bandit.' " He is a man about 5 feet 11 inches in height, and about thirty-five years old, with not an ounce of superfluous flesh about him. A haiKlsome, regular-featured, mild-voiced, soft-spoken man, with what one miglit call a * meek ' demeanour, very generous and opeu-haiided. Tho character was ro diiTerent from that which I had attributed to him that for some time a " ispicion climg to ray mind that I was being imposed upon, but Arabs came forward who testitied that this quiet-]ooking man was indeed Mimiubo. I had expected to see something of tlie Mtesa type, a man whose exterior would proclaim his life and rank ; but this unprosuming, mild-eyed man, of inoffensive, meek exterior, whose action was so cilm, without a gesture, presented to the eye nothing of the Napoleonic genius which lie has for five years displayed in the lieart of Uiiyamwezi, to the injury of Arabs and commerce, and the doubling of tho price of ivory. I said tlicrc was nnthlmi : but I must except the eyes, which had the steady, calm gaze of a master. " During the conversation I had with him, he said he preferred bny? or young men to accom])any him to war ; he never took middle-aged or oM men, as they were sure to be troul)led with wives ov cliildrcn, and ilid not fij-vht lialf so wdll as young fellows who listoncd to his words. Said Iio, ' They have sharper eyes, and their young limbs enable them to move I MAKE BLOOB-BROTnERHOOD. 493 with the case of serpents or the rapidity of zebras, and a few words will give them the hearts of lions. In all my wars with the Arabs, it was an army of youths that gave me victory, boys without beards. Fifteen of my Toung men died one day because I said I must have a certain red cloth that was thrown down as a challenge. No, no, give me youths for war in the open field, and men for the stockaded village.' '"What was the cause of your war, Mirambo, with the Arabs?' I asked. " ' There was a good deal of cause. The Arabs got the big head ' (proud), 'and tliere was no talking with them. Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe lost his head too, and thought I was his vassal, whereas I was not. My father was king of Uyoweh, and I was his son. What right had Mkasiwa or tho Arabs to say what I ought to do ? But the war is now over — the Arabs know what I can do, and Mkasiwa knows it. We will not fight any more, but we will see who can do the best trade, and who is the smartest man. Any Arab or white man who would like to pass through my country is welcome. I will give him meat and drink, and a house, and no man shall hurt him.'" Mirambo retired, and in the evening I returned Lis visit with ten of the principal AVangwana. I found liim in a ball-tent 20 feet high, and 25 feet in diameter, with his chiefs around him. Maiiwa Sera was requested to seal our friendship by performing the ceremony of blood brotherhood between Mirambo and myself. Having caused us to sit fronting each other on a straw-carpet, he made an incision in each of our right legs, from, which he extractcl blood, and, interchanging it, he exclaimed aloud : — " If either of you break this brotherhood now esta- Uislied between you, may the lion devour him, tlie serpent poison him, bitterness be in his ibod, bis friends desert him, his gun burst in his hands and wound him, and everything that is bad do wrong to him until aeatli." My new brother then gave me fifteen clotlis to be (listrihiitt'd among my ciiiefs, while lie would accept <^nly throe from me. But not desiious of a})})earing ilHheial, I presented him with a revolver and 200 i'"un(ls of amm.unition, and some smnll curiosities from hnglaud. Still ambitious to excel me in liberality^ he 1876. April 22. Seromboh ■K V I I ( ! 494 THROUGH THE BARK CONTINENT. 1876. charged five of his young men to proceed to Urambo — ^^Au. which name he has now given Uyoweh, after himself Mayangira — and to sclcct three milch-cows with their calves, and Ukombeh. ^^iTQ^ biiUocks, to bc drivcn to Ubagwe to meet me. He also gave me three guides to take me along the frontier of the predatory Watuta. On the morning of the 23rd he accompanied me out- side Serombo, where we parted on the very best terms with each other. An Arab in his company, named Sayid bin Mohammed, also presented me with a bar of Castile soap, a bag of pepper and some saffron. A fine riding-ass, purchased from Sayid, was named Mirambo by me, because the Wangwana, who were also capti- vated by Mirambo's agreeable manners, insisted on it. We halted on the 23rd at Mayangira, seven miles and a half from Serombo, and on the 24th, after a protracted march of eleven miles south-south-east over flooded plains, arrived at Ukombeh. At Masumbwa, ten miles from Ukombeh, we encoun- tered a very arrogant young chief, who called himself Mtemi, or king, and whose majesty claimed to be honoured with a donation of fifteen cloths — a claim which was peremptorily refused, despite all he could urge in satisfaction of it. Through similar flooded plains, with the water liip- deep in most places, and after crossing an important stream flowing west-south-west towards the Malagarazi, we arrived at Myonga's village, the capital of Southern Masumbwa. This Myonga is the same valorous chief who robbeil Colonel Grant as he was hurrying with an undisciplimd caravan after Speke. (See Speke's Journal, page 15!^, for the following graphic letter : — " III the Jungloa. noar M'yonpn's, " IGth Sojit. 1801. •*I\rT DEAR Spkkk,— Tho caravnii was attacked, plunderotl.nml the men drivou to tho winds, wliile marching this morning into M'yonga's cour ;• A LITTLE KING WITH A " BIG EEAD.» 495 "Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; jgyg and while the loads wero being packed my attention was drawn to an April 24. angry discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows Masumbwa sent by Sultan M'yonga to insist on my putting up for the day in his village. They were summarily told that as you had already made him a present, he need not exp(3ct a visit from me. Adhering, I doubt not, to their master's instructions, they oflSeiously constituted themselves our guides till we chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading our party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, and dared our advance ! " This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept^-past tlie spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made upon us by, say, two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee. In an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor porters. The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or spear at their breasts, men wero robbed of their cloths and orna- ments, loads were yielded and run away with before resistance could be organised ; only three men of a hundred stood by mo ; the others, whose only thought was their lives, fled into the woods, where I went shouting for them. One man, little Eahan — rip as he is — stood with cocked gun, defending his load against five savages with uplifted spears. No one else could be seen. Two or three were reported killed, some were wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, &c., lay strewed about the woods. In fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and demand redress from the sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the day. Several were dressed in the very cloths, &c., they had stolen from my men. "In the afternoon about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his subjects— that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all tho property would be restored ! *' You^s sincerely, "J.A.Grant.") Age had not lessened the conceit of Myonga, in- creased his modesty, or moderated his cupidity. He asserted the rights and privileges of his royalty with a presumptuous voice and a stern brow. He demanded tribute ! Twenty-five cloths ! ! A gun and five fundo of beads ! The Arabs, my friends, were requested to do tlie same ! "Impossible, Myonga!" I replied, yet struck with admiration at the unptiralleled audacity of the man. " People have been obliged to pay what I ask," the old man said, with a cunning twinkle in hi-, eyes. t- 490 Tim can the dark continent. 1876. April 27, Ubagw^. u T>, or]iaps," I answered ; *' but wlietlier tlicy ]in,vo or U'r*., I cannot pay you so mucli, and, wl^at is more, I will not. As a sign that we pass tlirough your counti-v, I give you one cloth, and the Arabs shall only give you one cloth." Myonga bhistered and stormed, begged and threat- ened, and some of his young men appeared tc be getting vicious, when rising I informed him that (o talk loudly was to act like a scolding woman, and that, when his elder should arrive at our camp, he would receive two clotlis, one from me and one from the Arabs, as acknowledgment of his right to the country. The drum of Myonga's village at once beat to arms, but the affair went no further, and the elder received the reasonable and just tribute of two cloths, witli a gentle hint that it would be dangerous to intercept tlio Expedition on the road when on the march, as the guiiii were loaded. Phunze, chief of Mkumbiro, a village ten miles south by east i'rom Myonga, and the chief of Ureweli, iouiteeii miles and a half from Phunze's, wer^ equally bold in their demands, but they did not r-.r-'ive an inch of cloth; but neither of these three cHiefs were half so extortionate as Ungomirwa, king of Ubagwe, a lari^^e town of 3000 people. We met at Ubagwe an Arab trader en route to Uganda, and he gave us a dismal tale of robbery and extortion practised on him by Ungomirwa. lie lind been compelled to pay 150 cloths, five kegs or ;">0 lbs. cf r^unpowder, five guns double-barrelled, and 35 lbs. of beads, the wlrjle being of the value of 625 dollars, or £li?5, for the privilege of passing unmolested ihrough the is it, my friend, that your name goes about the couiHii '' '.s beinc: that of a bad man ? How is it that FBACTICAL CONVERSION. 4U^ y linvo Oi ore, I will country, I '- give you nd tlireat- recl t(. be m tliat io , and tliut, lie would from the e country, it to arms, er received tlis, with a itercept the as the guns miles south li, lourteeu illy bcM in an inch of ere lisili ^o we, a lai'ge m route to :ol)bery and 11. lie li:ul Is or ^A) lbs. lid 35 lbs. of dollars, or ted ilirougli liim :— goes about lowib itllii^'i llii^ poor Arab lias liad to pay so much for going through li oagwe ? Is Ubagwe Unyamwezi, that Ungomirwa demands so much from the Arabs? The Ai-ib brings cloths, powder, guns into Uny.imwezi. If you rob him of Lis property, I must send letters to stop people c. :ning here, then Ungomirwa wil) become poor, and luive neither powder, guns, nor clothcj to wear. What has Ungomirwa to say to his friend ?" "Ungomirwa," replied he, "does no more than Ureweh, Phunze, Myonga, Ndega, Urangwa, and Maukorongo : lie takes wliat he can. If the white man thinks it is wrong, and will be my friend, I will return it all to the Arab." '' Ungomirwa is good. Nay, do not return it all ; retain one gun, five cloths, two fundo of beads, and one keg of powder; that will !)e plenty, and nothing but right. I have many Wanyamwezi with me, v/hom I have made good men. I have two from Ubagwe, and one man who was born at Phunze's. Let Ungomirwa call the Wanvamwezi, and ask them how thv^ white treats Wanyamwezi, and let him try to make man 1876. April. Ubagwd. them run away, and see what they will say. They will tell liim that all white men are very good to those who are good." Uni>'omirwa called the Wanvamwezi to him, and asked them why they followed the wliite man to wander about the world, leaving their brothers and sisters. The question elicited the following reply : — " The white people know everything. They are better than the black people in heart. We have abun- dance to eat, plenty to wear, and silver for ourselves. All we give to the white man is our strength. We carry his goods for him, and he bestows a father's care on his black children. Let Ungomirwa make friends ^vith the white man, and do as lie says, and it will be ^uod for the land of Unyamwezi." 498 THROUGh THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. April. Ubagw^. T(3 whatever cause it was owing, Ungomirwa returned the Arab nearly all his property, and presented me with three bullocks ; and during all the time that I was his guest at Ubagwe, he exhibited great friendship for me, aud boasted of me to several Watuta visitors who came to see him during that time ; indeed, I can hardly re- member a more agreeable stay at any village in Africa than that which I made in Ubagwe'. Unyamwezi is troubled with a vast number of petty kings, whose paltriness and poverty have so augmented their pride that each of them employs more threats, and makes more demands, than Mtesa, emperor of Uganda. The adage that " Small things make base men proud" holds true in Africa as in other parts of the world. Sayid bin Sayf, one of the Arabs at Kafurro, begged ;ne as I valued my property and peace of mind not to march through Unyamwezi to Ujiji, but to travel through Uhha. 1 attribute these words of Sayid's to a desire on his part to hear of my being mulcted by kings Khanza, Iwanda, and Kiti in the same proportion that he was. He confestiod that he had paid to Kiti sixty cloths, to Iwanda sixty cloths, and to king Khanza 138, which amounted in value to 516 dollars, and this grieved the gentle merchant's soul greatly. On my former journey in search of Livingstone, 1 tested suffic^e itly In^, capacity of tlie chiefs of Uhha to absorb property, and I vowed then to give them a wide berth for all futmo time. Sayid's relation of his ex- periences, confirmed by Hamed Ibrahim, and ray own reverses, indicated but too well the custom in vogue among the Wahha. So far, between Kil)ogora's capital and Ubagwe, i had only disbursed thirty cloths as gifts to nine kings of Unyamwezi, without greater annoy- ance than the trouble of having to reduce their demands by negotiation. THE ISnMAELS OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 499 Ko traveller has yet become acquainted with a wilder r;ice in Equatorial Africa than are the Mafitte' or Watiita. They are the only true African Bedawi ; and surely some African Islimael must have fathered them, for their hands are against every man, and every man's Land appears to be raised against them. To slay a solitary Mtuta is considered by an Arab as meritorious, and far more necessary than killing a snake. To guard against these sable freebooters, the traveller, while passing near their haunts, has need of fill bis skill, coolness, and prudence. The settler in their neighbourhood has need to defend his village with impregnable fences, and to have look-outs night and day : his women and children require to be guarded, and fuel can only be procured by strong parties, while tlie ground has to be cultivated spear in hand, so constant is the fear of the restless and daring tribe of bandits. The Watuta, by whose lands we are now about to travel, are a lost tribe of the Mafitte', and became sepa- rated from the latter by an advance towards the north in search of plunder and cattle. This event occurred some thirty years ago. On their incursion they en- countered the Warori, who possessed countless herds of cattle. They fought with them for two months at ono jilace, and three months at another ; and at last, per- ceiving that the Warori were too strong for them — many of them having been slain in the war and a largo number of them (now known as the Wahehe, and settled iiearUgogo) having been cut off from the main body — tlie Watuta skirted Urori, and advanced north-west tlu'ough Ukonongo and Kawendi to Ujiji. It is in tlie memory of the old Arab residents at Ujiji how the ^Viituta suddenly appeared and drove them and the Wajiji to take refuge upon Bnngwe Island. Not glutted with conquest by their triumph at Ujiji, VOL. I. 2 L 1876. May 1. Ubagwd. f r I. 500 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. May 2. Ubagw^. they attacked Uruiidi ; but here they met different foes altogether from the negroes of the south. They next invaded Uhha, but the races wliich occupy the intradake regions had competent and worthy cliam- pions in the Wahha. Baffled at Uhha and Uruiidi, they fought their devastating path across Uvinzn, and entered Unyamwezi, penetrated Usumbwa, Utanil)ara, Urangwa, Uyofu, and so through Uzinja to the Victoria N} :vri7a, where they rested for some years after tlieir daring exploit. But the lands about the lake were not suited to then Pastes, and they retraced their steps as far as Utambara. Kututwa, king of Utambara, from policv, wooed the daughter of the chief of the Watuta, and as a dower his land was returned to him, while tlie Watuta moving south occupied the neighbouring country ot Ugombn, situate between Uhha and Unyamwezi. It is a w^ell- watered and a rich grazing country, tli ere fore well adapted to their habits and modes of life. The Kinyamwezi kings of Serombo., Ubagwe, Ureweli, Renzeweh, and k^'ngs Mirambo a id Phunze liave con- tracted ali'r...'iv;;"j with influential chiefs, and are on tolerably good terms with them ; but stubborn oil Myonga still holds aloof from the Watuta. It will be remembered by readers of ' How I Found Livingstone ' how Mirambo appeared at Taboia with thousands of the Watuta free-lances, slaughtered Kliamis bin Abdullah and five other Arabs, and ravaged that populous settlement. From the above sketcli of these terrible marauders, they will now be able to understand how it was that he was able to obtain tlieir aid, while the following paragraph explains how I obtained tie facts of this predatory migration. The wife of Wadi Safeni — one of the Wangwana captains, and coxswain of the Lady Alice during lier cruise round the Victoria Nyanza — when proceeding one day outside the stockade of Ubagwe to obtain AFRICAN TITLES. 501 water, accidentally heard our Watuta visitors gossiping to^-ether. The dialect and accent sounding familiar to her, she listened, and a few moments after she was herself volul)ly discussing with them the geography of the locality inhabited by the Mafitte between Lake Nvassa and Tanganika. It was mainly from this little circumstance — confirmed by other informants, Arab, 1876. May 3. Ubagw^. ONE OF THE WATUTA. Wungwana, and Wanyamwezi — that the above brief sketch of the wanderings of the Watuta has been ob- tained. " Mono-Matapa," that great African word, which, from its antiquity and its persistent appearance on our maps — occupying various positions to suit the vagaries of various cartographers and the hypotheses of various learned travellers — has now become almost classic, bears a distant relation to the tribe of the Watuta. 502 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. May 3. Ubagwi. ...fS^" The industrious traveller Salt, in his book on Abys- sinia, dated 1814, says: — " This country is commonly called Monomatapa, in the accounts of which a perplexing obscurity has been introduced, by different authors having confounded the names of the districts with the titles of the sovereigns, indiscriminately styling them Quit^ve, Mono-matapa, Bene- motapa, Benemotasha, Chikanga, Manika, Bokaranga, and Mokaranga. The fact appears to be that the sovereign's title was Quit^ve, and the name of the country Motapa, to which Mono has been prefixed, as in Monomugi, and many other names on the coast, that beyond this lay a district called Chikanga, which contained the mines of Manica, and that the other names were applicable solely to petty districts at that time under the rule of the Quiteve." Zimbaoa, the capital of this interesting land, was said to be fifteen days' travel west from Sofala, and forty days' travel from Sena. Indefatigable and patient exploration by various in- telligent travellers has now enabled us to understand exactly the meaning of the various names with which early geographers confused us. The ancient land of the Mono-Matapa occupied that part of South-East Africa now held by the Matabeles, and the empire embraced nearly all the various tribes and clans now known by the popular terms of Kaffirs and Zulus. The reputation which Chaka obtained throughout that upland, extending from the lands of the Hottentots to the Zambezi, roused, after his death, various ambi- tious spirits. His great captains, leading warlike hosts after them, spread terror and dismay among the tribes north, south, and west. Mosele-katz^ overran the Transvaal, and conquered the Bechuanas, but was sub- sequently compelled by the Boers to migrate north. where his people, now known as the Matabeles, have established themselves under Lo Bengwella, his suc- cessor. Sebituane, another warlike spirit after the style of Chaka, put himself at the head of a tribe of the Basutos, and, after numerous conquests over small tribes, esta- THE MAFITtA 603 la, his sue- ■ Mwan blished his authority and people along the Zambezi, under the name of Makololo. Sebituane was succeeded by Sekeletu, Livingstone's friend, and he by Impororo —the last of the Makololo kings. One of Chaka's generals was called Mani-Koos. It ought to be mentioned here that Mani, Mana, Mono, Moeni, Muini, Muinyi, are all prefixes, synonymous with lord, prince, and sometimes son : for example, Mana- Koos, Mani-Ema, now called Manyema and Mana- Mputu, lord of the sea ; Mono-Matapa, Mana-Ndenga, Mana-Butti, Mana-Kirembu, Mana-Mamba, and so forth. In Urep:ga the prefix becomes Wana, or Wane, as in Wane-Mbeza, Wane-Kirumbu, Wane Kamankua, Wana- Kipangu, Wana-Mukwa, and Wana Rukura ; while in the Bateke and the Babwende lands it is changed into Mwana, as Mwana-Tbaka, or Mwana-Kilungu, which title was given to the Livingstone river by the Bab- wende, meaning "lord of the sea." To return. This Mani-Koos, a general of Chaga's, attacked the Portu- guese at Delagoa Bay, Sofala, and Inhambane, and compelled them to pay tribute. The party then crossed the Zambezi river above Tete, the capital of the Portuguese territory, and, after ravaging the lands along the Nyassa, finally established itself north- west of the Nyassa, between that lake and the Tan- ganika. To-day they are known as the Manitu, Mafitte, or Ma-viti ; and three offshoots of this tribe are — the Watuta in the neighbourhood of Zombe, south-east end of Lake Tanganika ; the Wahehe, who cause such dire trouble to the Wagogo ; and the Watuta, the allies of Mirambo, and called by the Wanyamwezi the 1379. May 4. Ubagwtf goni. On the 4th May, having received the milch-cows, wives, and bullocks from my new brother Mirambo, we marched in a south-south-west direction, skirting the territory of the Watuta, to Ruwinga, a village occupying V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A # .^ >i -c// A r/^ « 1.0 I.I I^IM |25 mm m22 2.0 IK lU u 140 u IL25 U4_ ||.6 ill^^ 1111^5 li^S V ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation lV ^^ 33 WiST MAIN STRUT WIIS^H.N.Y. 14510 (7i6) •73-4S03 6 ,y « 504 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. May 5. Msen^ ^ a patch of cleared land, and ruled by a small chief who is a tributary to his dreaded neighbours. The next day, in good order, we marched across a portion of the territory of the Watuta. No precaution was omitted to ensure our being warned in time of tlie presence of the enemy, nor did we make any delav on the road, as a knowledge of their tactics of attack assured us that this was our only chance of avoiding a conflict with them. Msene, after a journey of twenty miles, was reached about 2 p.m., and the king, Mulagwa, received us with open arms. The population of the three villages under Mulagwa probably numbers about 3500. The king of the Watuta frequently visits Mulagwa's district; but his strongly fenced villages and large number of muskets have been sufficient to check the intentions of the rob- bers, though atrocious acts are often committed upon the unwary. Maganga, the dilatory chief of one of my caravans during the first Expedition, was discovered here, and, on the strength of a long acquaintance with my merits, induced Mulagwa to exert himself for my comfort. I saw a poor woman, a victim of a raid by the "Watuta, who, having been accidentally waylaid by them in the fields, had had her left foot barbarously cut oif. Ten miles south-west of Msene is Kawangira, a dis- trict about ten miles square, governed by the chief Nyambu, a rival of Mulagwa. Relics of the ruthless- ness and devastating attacks of the Watuta are visible between the two districts, and the once populous land is rapidly resuming its original appearance of a tenant- less waste. The next village, Nganda, ten miles south-west from Kawangira, was reached on the 9th May. From this place, as far as Usenda (distant fourteen miles south- BlVUi LAKE. 505 8outh-west), extended a plain, inundated with from 2 to isre. 5 feet of water from the flooded Gombe, which rises ^*'^ *^' about forty miles south-east of Unyanyembe. Where *** the 3ombe meets with the Malagarazi, there is a spacious plain, which during each rainy season is con- verted into a lake. We journeyed to the important village of Usagusi on the 1 2th, in a south-south-west direction . Like Serombo, Myonga's, Urangwa, Ubagw^, and Msen^, it is strongly stockaded, and the chief, conscious that the safety of his principal village depends upon the care he bestows upon its defences, exacts heavy fines upon those of his people who manifest any reluctance to repair the stockade; and this vigilant prudence has hitherto baffled the wolf-like marauders of Ugomba. I met another old friend of mine at the next village, Ugara. He was a visitor to my camp at Kuzuri, in Ukimbu, in 1871. Ugara is seventeen miles west-south- west from Usagusi. I found it troubled with a ** war," or two wars, one between Kazavula and Uvinza, the other between Ibango of Usenye and Mkasiwa of Unyan- yembe'. Twenty-five miles in a westerly direction, through a depopulated land, brought us to Zegi, in Uvinza, where we found a large caravan, under an Arab in the employ of Sayid bin Habib. Amongst these natives of Zanzibar was a man who had accompanied Cameron and Tippu- Tib to Utatera. Like other Miinchhausens of his race, he informed me upon oath that he had seen a ship upon a lake west of Utatera, manned by black Wazungu, or black Europeans ! Before reaching Zegi, we saw Sivue lake, a body of water fed by the Sagala river : it is about seven miles wide by fourteen miles long. Through a broad bed, choked by reeds and grass and tropical plants, it empties into the Malagarazi river near Kiala. iip«»**1 .» 506 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. May 14. Z«gi. ^' Zegi village also swarmed with Rusunzu*s warriors. Rusunzu has succeeded his father, Nzogera, as king of Uvinza, and, being energetic, is disposed to combat Mirambo's ambitious projects of annexation. I took care not to disclose our relationship with Mirambo, lest the warriors might have supposed we countenanced his designs against their beloved land. These warriors, perceiving that the word Ruga-Ruga, or bandits, influences weak minds, call themselves by that name, and endeavour to distinguish themselves by arresting all native travellers suspected of hostility or property. One of these unfortunates just captured was about to have his weasand cut, when I suggested that he had better be sold, as his corpse would be uselei^s. " You buy him, then," said the excited fellows ; " give us ten cloths for him.'* " White men don't buy slaves ; but rather than you should murder an innocent man, I will give you two for him." After considerable discussion, it was agreed that he should be transferred to me for two cloths ; but the poor old fellow was so injured from the brutal treatment he had undergone that he died a few days afterwards. Zegi, swarming with a reckless number of lawless men, was not a comfortable place to dwell in. The conduct of these men was another curious illustration of how " small things make base men proud." Here were a number of youths suffering under that strange disease peculiar to vain youth in all lands which Mirambo had called "big head." The manner in which they strutted about, their big looks and bold staring, their enormous feathered head-dresses and martial stride, were most offensive. Having adopted, from bravado, the name of Ruga-Ruga, they were compelled in honour to imitate the bandits' custom of smoking banghi (wild hemp), and my memory fails to remind me of any OSOSSINO THE MALAOARAZL 507 similar experience to the wild screaming and stormy sneezing, accompanied day and night by the monoto- Dous droning of the one-string guitar (arother ac- complishment de rigtieur with the complete bandit) and the hiccuping, snorting, and vocal extravagances which we had to bear in the village of Zegi. "We paid a decent tribute of fifteen cloths to Rusunzu, out of the infamous ** sixty" he had demanded through his Mutware or chief; and the Mutware received only four out of the twenty he had said should be paid to himself; and after the termination of the bargaining we marched to Ugaga on the Malagarazi on the 18th. The Mutware of Ugaga the next day made a claim of forty doti or cloths before giving us permission to cross the Malagarazi. I sent Frank with twenty men to a point three miles below Ugaga to prepare our boat ; and meanwhile we delayed negotiations until a mes- senger came from Frank informing us that the boat was ready, and then, after making a tentative ofifer of two cloths, which was rejected with every ludicrous ex- pression of contempt, we gave four. The Mutwar^ then said that Rusunzu the king had commanded that we should return to Zegi to fight his enemies, other- wise he withheld his permission to cross the river. At this piece of despotism we smiled, and marched towards the boat, where we camped. At 4 a.m. of the 20th May I had eighty guns across the mile- wide * Malagarazi, and by 3 p.m. the entire Expedition, and our Arab friends whom we had met at Zegi, were in Northern Uvinza. The next day, avoiding the scorched plains of Ubha, of bitter memory to me, we journeyed to Ruwhera, eleven miles ; thence to Mansumba, due west, nine miles and a half through a thin jungle ; whence we * In the dry season the Malagarazi is only about 60 yards wide at 1876. May 18. Ugaga. n !*■ 508 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 1876. despatched some Wanyamwezi across the frontier to May 21. uhha to purchase corn for the support of the Expedition in the wilderness hetween Uvinsa and Ujiji. Strange to say, the Wahha, who are the most extor- tionate tribute-takers in Africa, will not interfere with a caravan when once over the frontier, but will rtadilv sell them food. About fifty Wahha even brought grain and fowls for sale to our camp at Mansumba. Though truth compels me to say that we should have fared very bad^y had we travelled through Uhha, I must do its people the justice to say that they are not churlish to strangers beyond their own limits. It is a great pity that the Malagarazi is not navi- gable. There is a difference of nearly 900 feet between the altitude of Ugaga and that of Ujiji. One series of falls are south-south-west from Ruwhera, about twenty- ^ five miles below Ugaga. There is another series of falls about twenty miles from the Tanganika. At noon of the 24th we camped on the western bank of the Rusugi river. A small village, called Kasenga. is situated two miles above the ford. Near the crossing on either side are the salt-pans of Uvinza, which furnish a respectable revenue to its king. A square mile of ground is strewn with broken pots, embers of fires, the refuse of the salt, lumps of burnt clay, and ruined huts. As Rusimzu now owns all the land to within fifteen miles of Ujiji, there is no one to war with for the undisputed possession of the salt-pans. Through a forest jungle separated at intervals by narrow strips of plain, and crossing six small tributaries of the Malagarazi by the way, we journeyed twenty- three miles, to a camp near the frontier of the district of Uguru, or the hill country of Western Uhha. The northern slopes of these mountain masses of Uguru, about fifteen miles north of the sources of the Liuch^, are drained by the southern feeders of the Alex- AT UJIJI—BAD MEMORIEa. 509 andra Nile ; the western, by the Mshala ; the southern, by the Liuche ; and the eastern, by the Uhha tribu- taries of the Malagarazi. The boundaries of Uhha, Urundi, and Ujiji meet at these mountains, which are probably 6500 feet above the sea. We greeted our friend of Niamtaga, whom we had met in November in 1871, but, alas for him ! two weeks later he was taken by surprise by Rusunzu, and massacred with nearly three-fourths of his people. At noon of the 27th May the bright waters of the Tangaiiika broke upon the vie r% and compelled me to linger admiringly for a while, as I did on the day I first beheld them. By 3 p.m. we were in Ujiji. Muini Kheri, Mohammed bin Gharib, Snltan bin Kassim, and Khamisthe Baluch greeted me kindly. Mohammed bin Sail was dead. Nothing was changed much, except the ever-changing mud tembes of the Arabs. The square or plaza where I met David Livingstone in November 1871 is now occupied by large tembes. The house where he and I lived has long ago been burnt down, and ill its place there remain only a few embers and a hideous void. The lake expands with the same grand kauty before the eyes as we stand in the market-place. The opposite mountains of Goma have the same blue- l)lack colour, for they are everlasting, and the Liuch6 river continues its course as brown as ever just east and south of Ujiji. The surf is still as restless, and the sun as bright ; the sky retains its glorious azure, and the palms all their beauty ; but the grand old hero, whose presence once filled Ujiji with such absorbing interest for rne was fjrone ! 1879. M47 27 Ujiji- u !S.'.