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V;:r.. ..■ i 1 ^ '^V'"/^;^^''. 1 ■•■ Lr,r,j'?,%iV« A')'.; ''■■ ■>%;■■ m-^: "THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH. BY .1. MAC'DONALl) OXLEY. VJ ;* ! ^.■' Mm ■.?i The history of luinian effort to pierce the iee-defeiuh'cl mysteries of the Arctic Zone is invested not only witli the deej)- est interest, hut with the most moving- pnthos. Franklin and his fjallant ship- mates hattling hravely, hut alas! help- lessly, for life amidst the pitiless, pathless ice Hoes, and Heiu-y Hudson thrust forth from his own shi;-, m a tiny skirt" hy his nmtinous, nunderous crew, to find a grave in the waters of the mi>i PROVINCIAL- Ll.anA VICTORJA, B. C. ss mm ] ILiU 4(10 THE IXLAXD OCEAN OF THE NORTHS I'OliT LAPEKRlEltE. lojriciil 8ni'vey (upon whose excellent photofjraphic work many of the illus- trations to this article are based), seven observers, and twelve station-men. The " Neptxnie " was not just the most de- sirable sort of a vessel for the ])uri)ose. She was as slow as a snail, afforded at best very cram])ed acconnnodation, and moreover, having seen long service in the odorifennis occupation of whaling, was rich in reminiscences of the business, which could never by any i)ossibility have been mistaken for scents from Araby the blest. Her redeeming feature was lier sturdy strength which enabled her to submit unharmed to the fiercest buffeting, not only of wind and wave, but of ice-tioe and rock-reef also. Setting forth from Halifax, on July 22nd, 18S4, the "Ne])- tune," sailing up through the Gulf of St. Law- rence and Straits of Belle Isle, coasted ah)ng the bleak, for- bidding Labrador shore until she arrived at Cape Chudleigh, which forms one of the lips of tlie mouth of Hudson's Straits. Many icebergs were encountered on the way, and constant vigilance had to be exercised to guard against their coming to too close quarters. At Cape Chudleigh a dense fog envel- oped the ve.ssel, and kept her a close pris- oner for several days. When it cleared away she pushed on through the strait, and looked about until a fine harbor was discovered on the north-western shore of the cape, which was evidently just the place for Observatory Station No. 1. As some slight consolation for having to spend the winter there, the station was called PortBurwell in honor of the observ- er who was i)laced in cliarge, together with two station-men to kee]) liim com])any. The same pleasant compliment Avas paid each of the other observers left behind drring the progress of the expedition, and future geographers will therefore please '•■ ■■ ■ " THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH.'' 401 "T^rKiTi FOHT YOUK. AND GARDEN. take not<> of Aslic Ink'tou the iKjrtli side of tlie strait, a little more than midway bet'.veen the ocean and the hay ; Stiii)art"s Bay, immediately opposite on the south- ern shore; Port De Boueherville on Not- ingham Island; and Port Lajterriere on Dig'S'es Island. i\.t eaoli of these ])laces an observer and two station-men were established in simff huts taken tip for the ])nrpose, and fitted out "with unstinted stores of food, fuel. furs, and every nec- essary comfort, besides, of course, a com plete list of such insti-iunetits as Avouldbe required foi' the observations as to move- ments of the ice, tides and wiiids. Tlie observers were also instructed to note downcarefttlly, everything- of imi)ortance as to the mio-rations of manuuals, birds and fish, and also as to the growth of gras,ses. In fact tliey were to find out ever . thing they ])ossibly could; and it may be said her<5 thai without exception they discharged their duties in a thor- ouglily satisfactory manntM', and tluis accunmlat(>d an immense mass of infor- mation about a region of country hitherto almost unknown. Having established the stations one by one, the " Neptune" then turned nortlv- VoL. VII.-5!0 ward to visit Chesterfield Inlet and Mar- ble Island, thence southward to Fort L'hui'chill, the future Liver])oot of that I'egion, if the ho])es of tlie Hiid.soirs Bay Hallway promoters shall ever be realized ; and southward still to Fort York, the pre- sent conunercial metropolis of the bay, if so fine a tei'in may be apj)lied to a place whose business activity is compressed into a week or two out of eacli year, and is then limited to ri>ceiving a cargo from and lu'oviditig a retiu'u cargo for a single shij). All this took from Augu.st 6th to Sep- tember 12th. On the evening of the lat- ter day the '' Neptune " struck out acro.ss tbt> broad bosom of the bay for Digges Island, and beginning with Port Lajx'r- riei'e made a farewell toitr of the various stations, after ■whicli her course was sha])ed homewards ; St. John's, New- foundland, being reached by October lltli, when tlie voyage came to an end. Tlie results of the e.Kpedition were very consid(M"able, although, of course, they were only ])reliminary. In reference to the ice, which had hitherto been supposed to be the most formidable barrier to the navigation of the waters, Lieut. Gordon, 402 " THE INLAND OCEAN OB THE NORTH'' the commander of the expedition, report- ed that on close inspection its terror very lartyely disa])pears. The ice met with during his cruise could he divided into three classes, each class having a sep- arate origin : namely, icehergs from the glaciers of Fox Channel, heavy Arctic ice from the channel itself, and ordinary field ice, heing that formed on the shores of the hay and strait. No ice- hergs were en- countered in Hudson's Bay, nor were any reported as having heen "^^r seen there in the past; but in the strait a good many were met with, princii)ally along the northern shoi*e, where a num- ber were sti'anded in the coves, while some others were passed in mid-chan- nel. They were not thought, however, to form any greater bar- riers to navigation than do those met with in Belle Isle Strait, nor Avere they more numerous than they frequently are in these waters. The fleld-ice encountered, although it would have compelled an ordinary iron steamer to go dead-slow, gave no trouble to the " Neptune," the vessel running at full speed between the pans, and rarely touching one of them. The followiug summer a second expe- dition, in charge of the same commander as before, went up to the bay, this time GROrNDED ICEBERO, in a much superior vessel, H. M. S. "Alert," which had been lent for the purpose by tlie BritisJi naval authori- ties. In every respect, except, perhaps, speed, a better vessel than this steam- sliip could hardly have been selected. She had been specially rebuilt for the Nares Arctic expedition of 187(5, and was so constructed as to be capable of resistiug great ice-pressure, while her engines gave a very creditable amount of speed for a very small expenditure of coal. It being deemed essontial to de- termine, so far as possible, the time of the opening of Hudson's Straits for naviga- tion, a much earlier start was made than before ; tlie " Alert " steaming out of Halifax Harbor on the 27th of May. Unfortunately, how- ever, the fates saw fit to frus- trate this design ; for, after ^ making her way with nuich diffi- culty, but no misha]), thi'ough fields of ice and banks of fog right up to the mouth of the strait, on the l()th of June the ice set solid to the ship fore aiul aft, rafting and piling up all around her, and the next day it Avas dis- cover(>d that the iron stern -plates had been broken off some dis- tance below the water. This was a most seri- ous injury, as Lieut. Gordon did not dare drive his ship at all hard through the ice, and from that day until July 6th Avas compelled to let her drift about, the jilay- thing and sport of the pitiless ice-king. Tlius, much precious time Avas lost, and a still further delay occasioned by the necessity of returning to Newfoundland for repairs, which took until nearly the end of the month, so that August had come before the first station, Port Burwell, Avas reached. The obserA^er and his assistants Avere found in excellent health, and reported having passed a very pleasant winter, even if the cold did happen to freeze the mer- cury solid sometimes. (SfsUnl^i . i Mild valuiiblo notes made l»y a ('oiillict. its ])oss('ssi()U hoinnf fioivoly dis- liiiu diii'iny his winter sojoiini. as well piited Ity the Fi'eiicli and Kiiylish tor a period exteiidiiiy ovei- two centuries. An interestiiiii' relic of those tiiiiiultiious d:iys is still to he seen in what is without doiiht the lar<4'«'st ruin in North America — Fort I'riiice of Wales, whose hattei-ed walls as his helpful collection of ]»hot<)frra|>hs. taken diirinu' tlu- same period. First of all, a word or two in refer- once to HudsoiTs IJay itself. The pro- jiortions of this inland ocean are such as to yive it a ])roiiiiiient place anioii^' stand out i)romineiitly upon the jioint at the west side of the entrance to C'hiircli- ( )iie thousand three hundred miles in ill Harhor. Bei,'-uii in IT".'}:}, it (x'cupied lenyth hy si.K liundred miles in hreadlli, several years in huildiny, and when it e.xtends over twelve (le laryest, the e.vtent of country drainin>i' into it heiiiji- estim.ited at three iiiillioii s(]uare miles. To swell the niiji'hty voluiiie of its waters there come rivers which take their ri.se in the Kockv as it was, Goveriier Heariie, who had charji'e in 17^2, surrendered without iir- in the same lak(> source; whence when ])erchance some curious visitor ex- tlows a stream into tlu! Gulf of Mexico, plores its fast crumhliny ruins. Stranj^'e as it may seem, it is yet ])er- The chief reason for the deep interest ^'ectly possible that a passing biu'ath of manifested in t'le bay by the two j^'reat Aviiid should determine whether the ulti- rivals was their desire to control the mate destiny of the rain-drop fallino- lucrative fur trade for which it otfcM'cd so excellent an outlet. The famous Hudson Bay Com- pany was formed under the ]iatronaii'e of Prince Ru- pert in ]t!SS, and forthwith ))roceeded to estal)iish forts alony the shore, beo-iiuiino^ with Moose Factory at the foot of James Bay, Forts Albany, York and Cbnrcli- ill followed in due time, and reyular commuiiica- iiito that little hike be the balmy bosom of the ^[ex- ican (xulf, or the chilly S'rasp of the Arctic ice-floe. Altbouo-h seemin<>*ly .so remote from the needs of humanity, Hudson's Bay has l)eeii the scene of many i 4 " THE INLAND OCEAN OE THE NORTH r 405 >rcely dis- lish tor a ifios. An iiousduys out doubt ■icii — Fort red walls le-poiiit at I) Cliurch- L o('oui)it'd nd when [>ry inii)os- iKMits and Yet strong who had itliout tir- iliniral La x'fovc him I'd by two I to yitdd. muted the walls, and prisoners, iiul silence nee, except ; visitor ex- s. i>ep interest B two yreat control the h it otVered .utlet. The 1 Bay C'oni- ■d uiuU'r the Prince Ru- (l forthwith tablish forts ;>, befi'iuninj? ctory at the Bay.' Forts iiiul C'liurch- n due time, couHUUnica- wai'd a better uiuler- staiidiiiu' (,f tiit'se little known jM'ople. For more than a year lie dwelt alnon(;•^l them on an island on the north side of tlie s.rait at about the middle jxiint of its len'inle. The Indians of these i-eyions have so much in connnon with the ordinary red n.an as to call for no special remark: but the Eskimo present an individuality and interest that render them peculiarly attractive, as a subject of study at all events, and Mr. Ashe's acute and sym- pathetic observations help us greatly to- FISHlN(i WITH NliTS O.S' THE EDITH RIVEK. mean temperature was nineteen degi'ees b(>l()w freezing ])oint, permitting snow to Ii(> in shady ])laces the whole year round, nid making a siuiw-storm ])ossi- ble in the height of summer. It is a sad and gloomy land. In winter the world lies burie(i beneath its monotonous i-obe of Avhite. In summer it reminds one of a Dore illnstrati(m to the "Inferno," for Avithout a sign of vegetation save a sickly growth of moss in sheltered nook.s, the bare, bleak rocks lie tumbled about in chaotic confusion, wearying the eye aiul chilling the soul 40G "Till': JXLAXD (K'I'JAX UF TUh: XOHTll. I CAMP OF CHIPPEWA INDIANS. witli tlioiv unmitijratod stenuioss. Amid sucli .suvrouiulinys do the Eskimo spend their life, ])assiii<^ fi-om cradle to grave without one faintest {rleiini of the glo- rious beauty of flower-strewn meadow or billowy verdured forest. And yet they are far from being an unhappy or unintelligent race. On tlie contrary, they are both cheerful and bright by nature to a degree that puts them npon a higher level than numy of the Indians who have mucli gi-eater advantages. In the matter of mechanical ability, for instance, examine the tool-box of an P^skimo when he considers it well fur- nished, and -what does it ccmtain ? A well-worn file, an inditl'erent saw, a few I'usty nails, a cheap ])en-knife, and a very inferior sheath-knife. What would the ordinary mechanic of civilization accomplish with such implements as these ? Yet with these poor tools the Eskimo will repair the locks of their guns, make harpoons and spears, put together their kayaks and iimiaks, and manufacture all sorts of things out of wal- rus ivory. They will take the blade out of one pen-knife, alter it so as to be of suit- able size, and place it in another handle, drilling witli a broken needle the hole for the i)in on which the blade turns, having first by means of fire carefully untem- pered the part of the blade to ])e drilled. The appearance of these Eskimo is suggestive of patience and perseverance. They are short and sipuit of tigui'e, tlie men averaging five feet three inches, aiul the women five feet in height. Their breadth is apt to vary, according to Avhether the fates have sent them ])lenty of seal or imt. Tlieir eyes and hair are of the very blackest, the latter being as straight and not less coarse than horse- hair. A favorite annisenu'ut among the women is for two of tliem to select a hair out of their heads, and loo])ing one througii the other, to ])ull on the ends held in their hands until one of the hairs gives way, to the vast delight of the fat little lady Avhose capillary strength wins in this odd tug-of-war. The men generally sport a moustache, and occasionally a beard, the usual thing, however, being a tuft on the chin. They have very flat noses and high cheek-bones, so that if vou were to hold as m ^nm mt THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH" 407 W: W'H a striiiyht rule from one of tlicir cyc-halls 1o tlio other, it would in iiiiiuy eas«'s tail to touch the hridye of the nose. Their eyes have an upward tendency at the cornel's; their coniplexio!) i.s of a liair, and then With th<' skinny side out, ami the woolly side in. He \va.s line anil warm was Hriau o'Lynii. The ])attern o: their garments varies not a whit from generatit)n to genera- tion. The coat, which does not button but is hauled on over the head, has a large capuchin, in Eskimo language, "amook." at the back of the neck. The only difference between lh(^ coats of the men and the women lies in the latter i)e- ing graced with a tail, both "fore and aft. " so to s])eak, ujx)!! which the femi- nine fondness for ornamentation is in- dulged to the full extent of the wearer's means, so that they may be seen adorned with numerous rows of Iwads ami bits of brass orcoppi-r, such things as the works of a clock not being despi.sed, for in- stance. A ve.y }'o])ular form of decora- tion consists of table-si)oons, which they break in two, and arrange in various devices, group- ing the handles in one place and the bowls in aiu)ther. In the sunnner each fam- ily has its own home, Init in winter two or more fam- ilies live tijgether for the sake of increas(Hl warmth and economy of fuel. The summer residence is a tent made of sealskins with the hair scrajjcd otf, giving much the a])])earance of yel- lowish i)arch me nt. which is stretched over ]K)les of drift-wood arranged in the ordi- nary cone shape. The door always faces toward the water by whose side they are camped, and at the opposite side of the tent is the bed, composed of moss covered with sealskin. As they sleep with head «ff 408 " THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH.'' poiiUiiifr doorward, they Jiecessarily lio (lown-liill owiii<>- to the natural slope of tlie laud toward the shore. This does not seem either a conifortahle or healthy posi- tion, hut apparently they are none the woi'so for it. On either side of the door- way is their lanhM-, ('onsistinly repulsive-h)okin<>' piles of seal meat and hluhher, whieh give forth an odcn* that Samson himself, with his luiir at its long-est, could hardly wrestle v»ith suc- cessfully, sooverwhehniufjis its strength. The winter liahitations ai-e made en- tirely of snow, and are generally built iiudei the sheltering lee of a rock, in the drift that accumulates there. The builders begin l)y marking out on the snow a circle about iifteen feet in diameter, which re- ])resents the inmu" side of the walls, and with a .saw or long-l>laded knife tliey cut out blocks of snow from three to six feet long by a foot thick, and high, from inside the circle they have marked; then, placing- the blocks around the circle, they carry the walls up spirally (not in tiers), until they meet in a key- .stoiu^ abdve. at a distance of about nine fe«'t fi'om the excavated ]ev(d of the n(K)r. The result is. except, of course, as to color, the production of a gigantic bee- hive, over the door or in the centre of the roof of Avhich is set a big block of fresh- water ice to serve the purpose of a win- dow in lighting an interior that, although stainless white at first, is soon blackened by the ever-smoking, evil-smelling lamps the inmates use. The furniture of these human hives is very simple, as may be readily supposed. It con.sists of a bed-place or divan along the side of the "igloo "' opposite the door, and two fire-places, one on either hand as you eiitei'. These are made of firmly packed snow, and raised about three feet above the floor, the divan having its outer edge faced with a i)ole to ])revent it from crumbling away when used i.s a seat in the day-time. The beds are made up in the following manner : first, a layer of moss spread over the snow; next, a layei* of .sealskins; then a layer of bear or deerskins, and finally the sleeping bags, which resemble exaggei'ated j)illow-sli])s. only that fur takes the jdace of liiuMi. and the fur is double, so that there may be hair both inside and outside. Into these bags, of which each adult has one. the Eskimo, stri])])ed to the h-.wo buff, ci-eeps for the night, and slee])s very comfort- ably. Up to th(^ age of ten the children ■share their i)arents' bag; after that tiiey are ])romoted to having one of their own. Their fires are nothing more than lamps rudely fashioned cmt of .soap- ..■".v/r-f.; 1 mmgmimgitmfit*^^^>^i THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH:' 409 I 4 stono, and so arraiijnfed as to be self-supplyiiit?, a mass of blubber be- iiiing es.sential to his hunting in summer, and his traveling in winter. Th(\v are very wild, wollish animals, only half- domesticated, and possessing marvelous digestive jKiwers. A i)up that Mr. Ashe was rearing, being left to amuse himself ni the hou.s(> one day, did so, vei'y etft'ctu- ally, by devouring stockings, gloves, 'he greater part of a top-boot, and many smaller articles of a similar nature, none of which, ai)])arently, disagreed with him. In travidhig the dogs are harnessed to the .sledges by traces of white whule-skiu, the 410 " THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH:' h oldest and most trustworthy on the lead, the others in pairs on either side of his line ; a dozen constitutinji? a full team, and the whole being controlled by a driver who runs beside them, Avielding a whip with a lash thirty feet long, which, in his hands, can take a tuft of hair out of the most distant dog, with unfailing ac- curacy. Where tliere is no l)eaten track some one must precede the dogs to show them tlie Avay, but on a well-defined route they Avill trot ak>ng merrily by themselves at the rate of five or six miles an hour. then they may gorge themselves to their hearts' content upon the rich and juicy meat of the marine monsters. The Eskimo language is very soft and pleasing to the ear, but difficult to ac- quire, principally because of the peculiar use of the accent, and the difference a wrong placing of it makes, as a word in- correctlj- pronounced seems to be quite unintelligible. Mr. Ashe's fir.st attempts at conversation were so conspicuously unsuccessful that he was mucli discour- aged. For instance, he oiice said to a young neiglibor: "Ibbe micky tiddle- man pickaniminy petuang- a-too," meaning thereby to remark in a friendly wi,y: "Your dog had five puppies — they are dead ; '' }>ut in reality testing his visitoi-'s self-control by tiie offensive assertion: "You are a dog — you have not got five children." Although known to the world as Eskimo or Esqui- maux, these dwellei's in the far north call themselves ■ I f f V- -.. lausible, and 1o ])urchase a good team. The Hudson's Avorthy of notice. The whaler of to-day Bay Company employees find these dogs calls the Eskimo "Huskies," a v.ord that very useful in their work, ami there are is not far vemoved fi-om "Husickie,"and large packs of them at every fort. They that again from " Isickie," which is the are famous fish-eaters, and great are the Iimuit word for a male. Now, what rejoicings in dog-town, when a catch of .seems more probable than that the earli- porpoises or white whales is effected ; for est visitors to those icy regions in seek- r.w-(jis»if,5R-(;« -■!wr3M[i«iff^5:.?9a'4«3f,«iii:^?s^^ THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH" 411 ing- information as to Avliar the inhabit- ants called themselves v,ere understood as wanting- to know A\)iether they were males or female.s: ar.il, receiving the re- ply " Isickie," have Inrned it into Eskimo before handing it down to us? The Eski- mo call their white visitors, whom they are always so glad to see, '* Kedloonah," tliat is, the " crested people ;" they at first supposing that the hats worn bj them were ]):u't of their ])hysical constitution. In reference to their relig-ious beliefs arid superstitions, the Eskimo are re- markaldy reticent, for the reason prob- al)ly that their intercourse has chiefly been with rough, rude sailors, and they are afraid of having their cherished cei'emonies made the butt of the white man's ridicule. As I'egards matrimonial matters, they g'enerally have but one wife, and never more than two at the same time. No formal prcliminuries in the way of a marriage service seem to be presented. Wlu'u a cou])le come to the same way of thiiiking-. the man takes the woman from her home, sometimes even with- out asking the pai'ents' consent, and instals her in his own igloo as the fire-tender and "slavey" thereof. Usu- ally the relation is a hap])y one. Sometimes, however. incomi)atibility of temper reveals itself, smd tlien the un- congenial wife is returned to her former home, having been taken only "on ap- proval." and no formal divorce being required, Avhicli shows that in this one respect at least the otherwise slow-going North has advanced farther even than Chicago herself. Eskimo ])arents are not a^it to be over- burdened with children, five being con- sidered a large family. This is due to the lack of farinaceous food, which ren- ders it necessary to postpone weaning until the children are live or six years old. What poor, dear Ai-temus Ward would call "episodes'' are quite un- known among iliem, and when assured that tri])lets, or even quartets, were not impossible in the South, their admiration of the white man was A'astly increased. The dead are buried in the snow in winter time, and among the i-ocks in the summer, piles of stones being heaped upon them to keep off the wolves and dogs, W^ith the male dead, they bury a knife and spear. Before the era of guns they buried also a bow and arrow, but when these became obsolete, they did not put a gun in their place, arguing soundly enough that he must be a poor hunter indeed Avho cannot get all the game he needs in the happy hunting- grounds with a knife and .spear as his only Aveapons. It would appear as if there Avere advanced thinkers, moreoA'er, Avho hold that even the knife and spear are not necessary in a land of such mi- limited plenty, and Avho accordingly de- prive the dead man of both, for it is A'ery rarely that graves are found still con- taining these articles. With the Avomen they bury nothing, holding that sojne- body Avill hunt game for them in the next world just as they luiA'e done in this. The Eskimo pantheon is pretty Avell occupied, there being gods to preside OA'er the different natural phenomena, such as the rain, snow, ice, tides and so foi'th, and others controlling luunan des- tiny in the chase, at home and else- where. Their explanation of the tides is A'ery na'i've. The genius of the Avaters, it seems, wishing to cross the straits dry- shod, caused the Avater that filled them to heap itself up at one side, and then, Avhen he had passed over, to fall back into its place again, Avliich it did Avith such momentum as to j:o on oscillating to and fro ever since. Tii?v have no hick of priests, and under their direction make A'arious olferings to propitiate the deities, particularly Avhen the season is bad, and seals are scarce. Their social customs are full of inter- est and iiulividuality. Their Avay of eating, for instance, is decidedly peculiar. Cutting a long strip of gory, greasy meat from the mass before him, the Eskimo gourmand takes one end of it in his mouth, and then jiulling on the otlier until it is strained tight, Avith a (piick shuh of the knife past his moutli and nose, he severs a mouthful and swallows it AA'ithout mastication, repeating the operation rai)idly until the limit of his storage ca])acity is reached. A civilized spectator watching an Eskimo family at dinner cannot fail to be struck with the wisdom of Pro\'idence in giving these people such short noses, as Avere the features any longer they Avould infalli- bly suffer early abbreviation. ?-■ 412 " THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH." PDHTAGIMi A YOHK BOAT. In the matter of amusements the Es- kimo are not badly off. They liave a form of c'iii)-aiul-l)all, the ball beiiig a block of ivory ])i«'rced with holes at (litt'erent angles, into oJie of Avhich the l)layers strive to insert an ivory ])ef the wo- men is a species of "cat's-cra i\" which has been brought to such ])ertection that they develop from twenty to thirty ditfer- ent figures in it. Indeed, they ai'e ex- trenu'ly clever in i)erforming tricks with string, winding and twisting: a i)iece in and out among' their iing'ers, and then disen- tangling it by a single ])ull on (»ne end. Such are some of the manners and customs of the quaii't harmless and— des])ite their dirt — lovable peoi)le whose home is among the dreary regions to the north and south of Hudson's Straits. They have many admirable traits of character. They are wonderfully patient and enduring in times of trial and suffer- ing; honestand intelligent toannnlooked- for degree ; perfectly fearless in the chase, yet so peace-loving in their disposition that quarrels are almost unknown; hos- pitable, docile, keenly appreciative of kindness, and ready to share their last bite with their white visitors; willing to woi'k when opportunity offers, and con- tent with small rennuieration. So nuiiiy good ])oints have they, indeed, that the sad certainty of their gradual extermi- nation is rendered all the sadder there- by. The most careful estimate of their numbers in the Hudson's Straits re- gion at ])resent is 1,500, but this, of course, is only an approximation, as their own system of counting, which generally runs "one-two-three — a great many," rendei's anything like an accu- rate census impossible. Each year finds their food-supply diminishing, thanks mainly to the enterprise of the whalers and sealers. As the nund)er of tho seals decrease the nundx'rof the Eskimo must decrease also, and the end, though it m.i" be long delayed, seems inevitable. xVlthough the region inhabited (if that term can be rightly applied to tiny set- tlenuMits scattered at vast intervals ovei* boundless wastes) by the Eskimo is ut- iM^niK <«a\3*M«iK THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTHS m terly worthless for agricultural i)urposes, the waters it surrounds eoutaiu sources of wealth which, straug'e to say. have hitherto heen monopolized hy the Dun- dee ami New Bedford ■,. iialers, just as the fur trade has heen i.i()uo])olized hy the Eufrlish Hudson's Bay Company ; the Canadians, to whom the reo^iou l)elonarly a million jiounds of avIu lebone. which, considerinif that the avt -age size of the shij) is only 240 tons, makes it clear that there has been a handsome mar£?in of proiit. The rij.j'ht whale, which, in con- sequence of the hijjfh ])rice of whale- bone, viz.. alxnit !?12,0(M> a Ion. is by far the richest prize a whaler can cap- ture, attains a size of from lifty to eig'hty feet. It was once readily found in the noi'thern part of the bay, but now is rarely seen and the pursuers have to fi'o farther and farther north every year. The white whale, on the other hand, still al)ounds at the York. Nelson, and Churchill rivers. They y'o up with the tide every day in m twenty to thirty dollars apiece. The narwhale or uniconi, and the wali'us still exist in consideralile nunil)ers, and well repay the trouble of huntiuf)- them, while the seal, it need hardly be said, swarms upon the ice in countless numbers duriny the jrref'ter ])art of tiio year, and to a hu'j^e extent constitutes the Eskimo's conunis- sariat. Of smaller fishes, the salmon is the only one havino'counnercial value. It is caught in larjie quantities by the Com- pany.aud sent to Enjrland fresh in a refrig- erator shi]) specially built for the trade. There are not many species of land animals, the polar bear, wolf, wolverine, arciic fox, reindeer, polar hare, and lem- ming' being the princi])al ones. They are all pretty numerous still, l)ut their ranks are undoubtedly thinning, as the demands of the fur trade increase; and some day or other they will be so scarce as to ren- der the business of catching them no longer remunerative. Indeed, as it is now, no nuitter how hosi)ital)le. genial, or talkative an official at one of the Hud- son's Bay Com])any's forts may be. under no circinnstance can he be sed u'cd into the admission that his post is run at a profit to the company; according to him it is kept up just for the hem-lit of tlie Indians and Eskimo; in other words, for ])hilan- thropic rather than for conuncrcial i)ur- poses. Accordingly, if this showing be true, the end of the fur trade is already within sight. But it is not because of its human in- habitants, nor of its (juarries for the hunter on land or sea tliat the Hudson's Bay region has special interest for us to- LOOKINO SOUTH ALONG THE MERIDIAN LINE, LENNOXVILLE, P. Q. 414 THE INLAND OCEAN OF THE NORTH' day. We might be content to leave it to the chill obscurity which has been so long its lot, were it not that, as already in- dicated, the Central part of Canada, and the North-west of the United States are asking whether it does not afford a solution of the problem how to secure for their products the cheapest and most expeditious road to the V)est markets. A glance at the map Avill be sufficient to make clear that the shortest possible route between the region referred to and Europe lies through Hudson's Bay. Care- ful calculations have shown that the city of Winnipeg, for instance, is at least eight hundred miles nearer Liverpool by the Hudson's Bay route than by the St. Law- rence, and the difference in favor of the former increases, of course, the farther you advance north-westward. If, as has been pointed out, you take the central point of the agricultural lands of the Canadian North-west, you will find that the distance from it to Winnipeg is about the same as to Churchill, the finest har- bor of the bay. Now the distance be- tween Churchill and Liverpool is a little less (about sixty-four miles) than it is between Montreal and that great entre- pot of commerce. The conclusion, con- sequently, is that as between the said centre and Liverpool there is a saving of the w^liole distance from Winnipeg to Mont'-eal, by the use of Hudson's Bay, which means in miles no less than 1,291 via Lake Superior aiul 1.698 via Chicago. The people of Manitoba having become fairly alive to the importance of the subject, not only called upon Parliament to help them, but, like sensible folk, set to work to help themselves. A charter was obtained for a railway from Winni- peg to York Factory. The line was sur veyed and found to be easy of consti'uc- tion. Some eighty miles of it have been already laid down. Two ])owerful steam- ers of 6,000 tons each have been ordered to be built expressly for the route, and two others have been chartered. It is intended that the.se vessels shall begin running between England and Hudson's Bay early in June, 1888. They will fi- nally solve the all-important question as to how early a powerful steamer of the freight-cai'rying class may be able to penetrate the straits, and they will also furnish the supplies required for the pro- secution of the road from York Factory southwards, meeting it in its progress from Winnipeg northwards. Seeing how ardent, enf getic, and hopeful, Manitobans have been in this matter, it is not a little disappointing to find that such competent authorities as Lieut. Gordon and Mr. Ashe, are by no means sanguine as to the success of the route. The latter has pointed out tliat, apart from the ice question, which is quite serious enough of itself, there are other ditficulties wliich have to be reck- oned Avith, such as the dangers attend- ant upon a passage along an unknown, unlighted coast- line, with few harbors of refuge, and very little rooui to ride out a gale ; extreme depths of water, one hundi'ed fathoms being often found right up to the shore, with generally very defective holding ground where the depths are more moderate. In foul weathei', no sounding being possible that would be of value, a vessel would receive no warning of her ])roximity to the coast until it was, perhaps, too late to save her from destruction. Further- more, it must not be forgotten that the proximity of the straits to the Magnetic Pole renders the ordinary compass pei'- fectly useless, and even the Thompson compass becc ijs liable to aberration if there are any disturbing elements on shipboard. The most serious objection of all. how- ever, to the Hudson's Bay route, is the ice that fills these waters with its de- structive lloes and bergs. No ordinary steamer could safely venture into its midst. The bow must be armored, and the whole frame strengthened to with- stand the rude butt'eting that is so in- evitable. All this, of course, means increased cost and decreased carrying capacity ; and even then the lesson of the three expeditions would seem to be, that the period of navigation for such a vessel is from the ISth July to the 15th October, with a possibility of navigation from 1st July to 1st November. Wheth- er a railroad system eight hundred miles in length, and a fleet of steamships of a V(^ry costly kind can be employed with profit where the season for transporta- tion is not moi'e than three or at the most four months in duration, consti- tutes the problem upon the solution of which depends the future of the Inland Ocean of the Noi*th. < ' f f I its progress Is. iK.getic, and been in this appointing- to authoi'ities as tie, are by no access of the ited out that, on, wliich is elf, there are ;^e to be reck- ig-ers attend- in unknown, iw liarbors of II to ride out water, one aften found ;h generally lid where the e. In foul ing possible va\ssel would proximity to aps, too late 1. Furtiier- ten that the he Magnetic 3ompass per- i Thompson aberration if elements on >^\ ^. ''^\ ► >. ( * f \ ,-/* r- ^ ' \-*. < ' \ ^ " * / t- » H \ v1 1 ■ 'V ' '> ' -I f Lof all, how- route, is the with its de- No ordinary ire into its rmored, and lied to Avith- lat is so in- Jrse, means ed carrying lesson of the eem to be, a for such a to the 15th f navigation er. Wheth- uidred miles miships of a iloyed with transporta- 3 or at the tion, consti- > solution of the Inland \ t ', i' : x\'' .'?>. '"> ;<^ ..?>, •■■ I A ' 4 ■■'f "^ S' " '' ^>.^l. 1 , ■< ' ^ J t ■ ? J* "I , 1 . ' « /^ 'A, i^' 1 1 t i ( >. . ^■if ' .M