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A TouP of 75 Days Through Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Southern, Central, and Northern Cali- fornia, the Mount Shasta Region, Oregon, Washington, the Puget qk : Sound Country, British Columbia, ALASKA, Idaho, Montana, j| The Yellowstone National Park, etc. See pages 3-1 I I. TOUR OF 68 DAYS ACROSS THE CONTINENT, And through California and the Pacific Northwest (from San Diego to Victoria, B.C.), and Homeward via the Yellowstone National Park. See Pages I 13-142. TOUR OF 62 DAYS TO THE PACIFIC COAST, Through California, and Homeward across the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Moun- tijins, and through Nevada, Utah, Colorado, etc. See pages 143-175. TOUR OF 48 DAYS TO ALASKA, The Outward journey over the Canadian Pacific Railway and the Homeward one over the Northern Pacific Railroad, with a visit to the Yellowstone National Park. Seepages 176-181. W. RAYMOND, I. A. WHITCOMB. 296 Washington Street (opposite Scltooi Street), Boston, Mass. « i 7W AMIRICAN PRINTINa * tNCRAVINa CO., SO AHCN ST., BOSTON. •1 ( ; Suggestions in Re» Persons desiring to join ,„„ , ^° -^"'"'"ff « Party. « - eariy a date l coZtJt ' l"! """'.^^ ^^ouid send ti,eir nals to h °f going, and this reeistraZ! """* '^ registered as sn„„ u ''^ registered "'-y "e made, and in' eve/ "war"" ^ "'-« - '"« c":™ " '"^ I' "" '"'-"°" -ne, is required in conn ;:7:':::r "'^'"^'"P "> '-'e Ur'^t"' '"^°""? " circumstances prevent th. ""^ registration and no J! ^' •• ° P'J"n«"t of '» fi" the vacancy. xTcke,. ^'''" ^'"'''"'heiist.Jnd^hen . '"" '''°'"« >«• P^'-engeranytimetow^thtfo^'; ^' '="=" ="«• I'aid for at the""'""'""""'"^" g»r then be prevented f '•'''"'" °' ">« d«e of denlr , =°"venience of the -dh.g in „/,,/-;_. ■-going, the money .^^^^ »"J It frequently occur, .TTI ? "' ^" «" "ses the na H. , *" =''''=""age of Persons are not Jompel ed^^. ' '"'^ "' «"«d 'ongbefor.r' '"■'''' ''" ""'"^"». ■^"'".ay connect wi?h'th.l,nr' '° '*°^"'" '"' ^^^^Zoi "''' "' "^P-""- ..n at points on the route ^':::::^^:s ^:^:;^^Ji::'z:^ tney are required. *- SE^ASON OK 1892. * A GRAND TOUR FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND A VOYAGE TO WITH VISITS TO Many Picturesque Places in Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Southern, Central, and Northern California, the Mount Shasta Region, Oregon, Washington, the Puget Sound Country, ALONG THE BRITISH COLUMBIAN AND ALASKAN COASTS, WITH THEIR LOFTY MOUNTAINS, GIGANTIC GLACIERS, AND QUAINT NATIVE TOWNS, And Homeward through Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, etc., with a week in the YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A Magnificent Train of Vestibuled Pullman Palace Cars, including Pullman Palace Dining-Cars. The Party to Leave Boston Monday, April 26 ; and to Return Friday, July 8. Price of Tickets (all traveling expenses included), - $675.00 Incidental Excursion to the Yosemite Valley and the Big Tree Groves. W. RAYMOND, I. A. WHITCOMB, 296 Washington 8t. (opposite School St.), Boston, Mass. 3 m COLORADO, CALIFORNIA, THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST, • • ALASKA . • AND THE YE^LLOWSXONK NATIONAL PARK. April 25 to July 8, 1892. OF our three transcontinental tours arranged for the spring and early summer of 1892, we shall first describe one that is unexampled in extent and variety — a comprehensive journey through the length and breadth of our country, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Mexico line to Alaska. The Pacific Coast will be traversed for over 3,000 miles, and all its marvels may be seen — the luxuriant orchards and gardens of Southern California, the Yosemite Valley, the matchless mountain scenery of the Pacific Northwest, and the vast glaciers of Alaska. To these are added the wonderfully picturesque gorges of the Rocky Mountains, "life on the plains," the quaint native life in the far Northwest, the Yellowstone National Park, and Niagara Falls. In fact, it would be impossible to combine in a single tour of like S duration — seventy-five days — a greater number of truly grand attractions. No excursion ever planned has equaled this one in its comprehensiveness of American wonders. There are many American travelers to whom the highways and by-ways of Europe and the East are familiar, but to whom the marvelously fine scenery of their own country is as a closed book. Within the past decade great progress has been made in rendering even the inner recesses of our vast national domain accessible to the tourist, and united to this fact is the equally important one that cur special excur- sion trains carry to the most distant points comforts and luxuries previously unknown. All the chief railway journeys herein described will be made in a magnificent train of Pullman vestibuled palace cars, which unite every lirst-class appointment known to the rail, including a complete dining-car service; and the Alaskan voyage will be per- formed on the staunch and elegant steamship " Queen," the finest vessel in the fleet owned by the Pacific Coast Steamship Company. The steamer trip will occupy eleven or twelve days. All the famous scenic points in Southern Alaska which have made the Alaska tour so famous will be visited, including Fort Wrangel, Juneau, the Douglas Island gold mines, Chilkaht, Sitka, and the great Muir Glacier on Glacier Bay. There will be time for landing and sight-seeing at all the chief points of interest, and everywhere tourists will have unsurpassed opportunities for scanning the wonderful scenery of our northernmost possessions, and for studying the quaint and primitive native life. The entire route from Puget Sound to the farthest northern point reached is lined with scenes of wonderful and awe-inspiring character — mountains of great height, with almost fathomless depths at their very feet ; cascades, which s°em to tumble from the sky itself ; densely wooded shores, whose solitudes have never yet been invaded by man; and vast fields of snow and ice, which glow in the sunlight like plains of gold and silver. Thousands of mountain peaks are seen that no man has 6 f ever visited, and that are as yet even unnamed. In Alaska great glaciers, many fold larger than the grandest ice fields of Switzerland, flow down to the sea, mingling with the floods of the ocean and breaking off in huge masses of fantastical shapes. In no part of the world is there so much wild grandeur encompa. £ d in a voyage of equal duration. The time selected for the tour is seasonable, not only ^ Jr the visit to the far North, but also for the journey across the continent and the tour hrough California. In June, when the party will reach the Northwf^st, long days rrevaili and there are really only a few houiS of darkness. Nothing that can contribute to the safety, comfort, and well-being of the passengers will be omitted. Only two persons will be placed in a section of the sleeping-cars (every passenger being entitled to an entire do'^ble berth, half a section) and only two persons in each stateroom on the steamer. From Boston to the Missouri River. The party will leave Boston, from the Fitchburg Rail oad station, at 4.00 P. M., Monday, April 25. The early stage of the journey is ovei the popular Fitchburg & Hoosac Tunnel route, and through a picturesque section of Northwestern Massachu- setts. At a distance of 135 miles from Boston we enter the portals of the famous Hoosac Tunnel, which pierces the mountains for four and three-quarters miles. Near Mechanicville, N. Y., the Hudson River is crossed, and at Rotterdam Junction the train passes from the tracks of the Fitchburg Railroad to those of the West Shore Railroad. This latter line ascends the Mohawk Valley, and traverses the great State of New York, passing through Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and other impor- tant towns. As meals are to be served in the dining-car, there will be no prolonged stay at any station during the early part of the ride. Passing through Buffalo, our 7 mm mimmmmm train continues along the shores of Lake Erie and the Niagara River to Niagara Falls. We cross the Niagara Riv.r on the great Suspension bridge, just above the terrible Whirlpool Rapids, and about two miles below the cataract. From this point westward through Canada the route lies over the Southern Division of the Grand Trunk Rail- way. The 3t. Clair River is crossed just below Lake Huron by means of the great river tunnel, the longest work of its kind in the world. From the Canadian cutting to the river edge i 1,950 feet, and from the American cutting to the river 1,800 feet, the distance across the river is 2,300, making the total length of the tunnel 6,050 feet. The cos*^ of this great work was about ^^3,000,000. It not only shortens the line at this poii'i, but greatly facilitates traffic. The line west of the river leading direct to Chicago is also under Grand Trunk management. At this point, too, Eastern or 75th ropfidian time changes to Central or 90th meridian time, which is one hour slower. ' Alter traversing Michigan and a little corner of Indiana, we reach the boundary line of Illinois. At Blue Island Junction our train will be transferred to the tracks of the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway, on which we make our farther journey to Kansas City. We cross the* northern part of the great Stale of Illinois, reaching the Mississippi River at Rock Island. This route takes us through Joliet, Morris, Ottawa, La Salle, Peru, Geneseo, Moline, and other populous cities and towns. Rot:k Island is a handsome city, which stands on the east side of the lordly Mississippi, while Daven- port, la., is on the opposite bank. Thusfar we have followed quite closely the line of march taken by General W infield Scott at the time of the Black Hawk War. Where the city of Morris stands was fought a sanguinary battle between the Black Hawk Indians and the white settlers, the latter having the assistance of the Pottawdttamies. The island, which gave the city of Rock Island its name, 8 ara Falls, e terrible westward unk Rail- the great in cutting 1 ,800 feet, 6,050 feet, he line at ; direct to ;rnor 75th ur slower, iidary line cks of the journey to Vlissisaippi , La Salle, sland is a lie Daven- ly the line lawk War. tween the assistance its name, i is traversed by the railway, the river being crossed on a magnificent iron bridge. The island is owned by the United States Government ; and the United States Arsenal, which was erected here after the destruction of the one at Harper's Ferry, Va., in the war of the Rebellion, is near the road. The grounds have been laid out by the government in a very handsome manner, and serve as a charming park for the three adjacent cities — Rock Island, Davenport, and Moline. Where the Kimball House in Davenport stands was signed the treaty with the Indians which opened up Western Illinois, Eastern Iowa, and Southern Wisconsin to white settlement. Black Hawk's village stood upon the site of the city of Rock Island. On leaving Davenport our train continues down the west bank of the Mississippi River as far as the flourish- ing city of Muscatine. Our course i hen across the southeastern corner of Iowa; and at Lir.eville we enter the State of Missouri, traversing its northwestern section from thence to Kansas City, a distance of 142 miles. Princeton, Trenton, and Car eron are the chief towns on this part of the line. Just before entering Kansas City the road crosses the Missouri River on a high and substantial bridge. Kansas City. We shall reach Kansas City early Thursday morning, and spend several hours there. This city lies upon the boundary line of two States — Missouri and Kansas — with its chief population, public buildings, etc., in the former. Kansas City, Mo., contains 132,4x6 inhabitants, and the Kansas division of the city 38,271. Possessing peculiar advantages from being the junction point of a dozen great railroads, Kansas City has made rapid strides within two or three years past. It is the largest depot for agri- cultural implements in thrt world, the second great beef-packing centre, and the third place of importance in pni k-packing. 9 \':r,>f The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. On leaving Kansas City Thursday forenoon we enter upon the main line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, over which we are to travel upwards of 2,300 miles in different stages of our western journey. With several eastern termini and a number of branches to tributary points, the main line of this road reaches out over the great State of Kansas, through a part of Colorado, and then diagonally across the Territory of New Mexico, to connections with the Pacific Coast and Old Mexico. The Santa Fe system comprises, in addition to the main line and its branches, the Atlantic & Pacific, through Arizona and California, the Southern California Railway Company's system, and other important lines. Through Kansas. Our course from Kansas City to the Colorado State line takes us 486 miles within the borders of Kansas. The State embraces in altertiation broad, level valleys and high, rolling prairies, with a gradual rise towards the Rocky Mountains. At Kansas City we are 765 feet above the sea, and at the borders of Colorado 3 418. The highest point in the State is the extreme northwest, which has an elevaticm of about 4,000 feet. The eastern section, through which we pass by daylight, is well watered, well settled, and is devoted largely to corn and wheat, of which the yield is enormous. The western section, with the neighboring parts of Colorado and Nebraska, is given up largely to cattle grazing. Colorado. Entering Colorado a little distance west of Coolidge, we find that the plains look dry and barren, but nevertheless they furnish good grazing. We are at times on what 10 5, Le^ Rio lies t from )Iace ■3ng t( beyoit e of the of 2,300 ini and a iches out illy across 1 Mexico, iches, the I Railway iles within alleys and At Kansas 'he highest bout 4,000 tered, well nous. The Ls given up plains look hies on what were once famous buffalo grounds. Antelopes are sometimes seen near the track ; and villages of those queer little animals, the prairie dogs, are also common. Deer, like the buffalo, have been driven back from the railroads, and, indeed, the buffalo has been AvhoUy exterminated from these regions. Colorado embraces 103,645 square miles. Of the United States, Texas (262,292 square miles), California (158,000 square miles), Montana (143,776 square miles), and Nevada (109,740 square miles), only exceed it in area; and of the Territories only New Mexico, Arizona and Alaska. Upon first entering Colorado little change will be noticed in the physical aspect of the landscape, except that the prairie g adually becomes more rolling. Las Animas is a thriving cattle centre. At La Junta we diverge from the main line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad for a detour amid some of the great scenic wonders of the Rocky Mountains. We proceed first to Pueblo over a branch of the Santa Fe line, and from thence over the Denver & Rio Grande Railway to several of the grandest scenic points in the mountain region. Our stay at Pueblo will be long enough for the party to see something of this busy and progressive young city. The Royal Gorge. r Leaving Pueblo Friday noon, we shall proceed over the main line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway westward in order to visit the famed Royal Gorge. Our course lies through the narrow valley of the Arkansas River. At Florence, thirty-three miles from Pueblo, we are in the centre of the Colorado petroleum district, and above this ±)lace are extensive coal deposits. Cafion City (fifty-one miles) is a large and grow- ing town. The State Penitentiary is near the railroad track on the right, and just cyond are several fine mineral springs. The cafion begins just above this point, and II i| !!i for ten miles the scenery is of the wildest and grandest description. Mountains of rock running up almost perpendicularly nearly half a mile in height, and terminating in dizzy pinnacles, seem ready to fall upon the adventurous traveler. The train winds along the course of the narrowing stream, and its onward progress seems barred in a hundred places by huge cliffs. The Arkansas, crowded to narrower limits, brawlingly disputes the right of way with the iron steed; and new pictures of wildness and grandeur greet the eye at every turn. Every feature of the scenery is on a stupendous scale. Denver. Returning to Pueblo after our inspection of the Royal Gorge, we shall continue northward over the main line of the Denver & Rio Grani Railway to Denver, where the train will arrive at an early morning hour. The forenoon will be passed in this city, and there will be a carriage ride to aid the visitors in making a sight-seeing round of the *• Queen City of the Plains." Denver has a population of 126, i86, according to the recent census, and is one of the most substantial and progressive cities of the West. Manitou Springs. Leaving Denver at i.oo p. m., we shall journey southward to Colorado Springs, and thence by a branch line to Manitou Springs, where we shall remain over Sunday, making our headquarters at the Barker and Cliff Houses, Both hotels are in proximity to the principal springs and the large bathing-establishment. The Garden of the Gods lies between Manitou Springs and Colorado Springs ; and Pike's Peak, which has an elevation of 14,147 feet (7,850 feet higher than the town itself), rises in solitary beauty only a few miles away. The Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway, which 12 climl mm«* p w ii mm i mK^^. tm m m > m Mm ntains of minating lin winds rred in a rawlingly less and ipendous continue ;r, where i in this ng round ccording 8 of the Springs, Sunday, are in Garden Peak, uses in , which climbs to the very summit of the mountain, was opened last year. The Manitou Grand Caverns are within a short distance of the village, as are also Rainbow Falh. The Raton Pass. We shall go on board the train Sunday nir^ht, and leave Manitou Springs at an early hour Monday morning, going southward over the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- way to ruel)lo and La Junta, and thence over the main line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. Crossing the Raton Pass above Trinidad, at an elevation of 7,688 feet, we enter the Territory of New Mexico. Fisher's Peak, a very prominent and picturesque elevation which rises back of Trinidad and 3,628 feet above it, is 9,633 feet high. The railroad crosses the Purgatoire River at Trinidad ; six miles beyond passes through the mining town of Starkville, and ten miles above Starkville crosses the State line, just north of a long tunnel. Meanwhile occasional glimpses have been had of the gleam- ing Spanish Peaks, which are some thirty miles northwest of Trinidad. The railroad follows the general direction of the old " Sante Fe trail," and Dick Wootton's famous old toll-house is seen on the right just north of the summit. The descent on the New Mexico side is quite steep, and large, powerful locomotives are required to draw the trains over the mountains between Trinidad and Raton, a distance of twenty-three miles. Raton is situated on the pluin, Hbout 1,000 feet below the summit, and is an important trade Ci-utre. New Mexico. This Territory, which came into the possession of the United States after the Mexi- can war, togetherwith Arizona, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada, comprises 121,201 square miles, and its southern boundary reaches to thirty-one degrees twenty minutes, north 13 m I ! latitude. Much of its surface is an arid waste, but the scenery in many parts of the Territory is very beautiful. Its tablelands are elevated from 5,000 to 7,500 feet above the sea, and snow-capped peaks rise to the height of 11,000 feet and upwards. While commercial relations with the East have been established within the present century (though net fully provided for until the opening of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad), New Mexico and Arizona, together with the southern part of Colorado, are unquestionably the oldest-settled portions of our country. In no part of America does the historian and archaeologist find such rich fields for research. This region was the home of an ancient civilization for centuries before the first Pilgrim footfall was heard on Plymouth Rock, and before St. Augustine and Jamestown were colonized. The pueblos or villages of these prehistoric races are scattered through the valleys of southern Colorado and northern New Mexico and through a large part of Arizona. There are ruins of ancient cities miles in extent; and then there are the curious cliff dwellings which abound in certain parts of Colorado and Arizona. The fuehlos are now inhabited to a large extent by a strange aboriginal race called Pueblo Indians; but the cliff and cave dwellings have probably been in ruins for ages. Soon after the conquest of Mexico by Cortes in 1519, the Spaniards overran the country, and it is the old South European civilisation that now permeates the life and customs of New Mexico and Arizona, the American element being a very recent impcrtation. The present population of New Mexico is 144,862. * Near Raton are valuable coal mines. There are said to be 800,000 acres of coal lands in Colfax county. Cold, silver, copper, and other ores are also found in this vicinity. South of Raton lies a rich grazing country dotted with ranches. Springer, the county seat of Colfax, and Wagon Mound are the chief places of importance between Raton and the large and flourishing city of Las Vegas. 14 arts of the feet above is. While nt century : Santa Fe loraclo, are lerica does on was the was heard ized. The valleys of f Arizona, irious cliff ueblos are Indians ; 1 after the and it is s of New ion. The s of coal id in this Springer, iportance Las Vegas Hot Springs. The celebrated Hot Springs of Las Vegas are situated six miles from the city of the same name, and we shall pay them a visit, our special train being taken ihither over the Hot Springs Branch. The springs are forty in number, and are situated at the base of afoot-hill that slopes down to the Rio Gallinas. In their thermal properties they are divided into two classes ; one including springs of a temperature from 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, and the other from 75 to 100 degrees. There are thirty of the former and ten of the latter. Of the whole number only about twenty-five of these springs have been required for the bath-house supply, a single spring furnishing no less than 30,000 gallons of water daily at a temperature of 140 degrees. The warm springs flow from basins, or reservoirs, direct to the bath-houses, while the cooler ones run into large tanks, and are thence conducted into the bath-houses to furnish cold water as desired. The first improvements were made at the springs in 1846, when an adobe bath-house was erected and a hospital established there by the United States Army. The first hotel was erected in 1S79, and is still standing. The popularity of the resort has made greater demands than the old house was intended to supply, and the large and elegint Montezuma was erected.. This establishment is situated on one of the heights above the river, at an elevation of about 6,900 feet above the level of the sea. The Rio Gallinas flows through a cafion abounding in romantic scenery. Westward from Las Vegas. Returning to Las Vegas and then going westward, we traverse an undulating and broken country. Some twenty miles from Las Vegas is a picturesque hill known as Starvation Mountain. This is a flat-topped, rocky eminence, with almost perpen- dicular sides, where, tradition says, the Indians surrounded 140 Mexicans, who finally IS f" s starved to death. Several crosses have been erected on the summit. Nearly fifty miles southwest of Las Vegas, in the Pecos Valley, are the ruins of the old Pecos Church, which was established by the Spaniards soon after 1529. The railroad runs within about a mile of the spot. A short distance from the church are the ruins of a great city which far antedated that edifice. The faint traces of walls, now gradually being reduced to dust, are all that now remain. From the Pecos River there is ?n ascent by a steep grade to the summit of Glorieta Pass, which has an elevation of 7,537 feet. It was here and in the neighboring Apache Canon, through which the railroad passes in descending the western face of the mountains, that a sharp fight took place, early in the War of the Rebellion, between the United States forces and a band of Texans who were bent upon seizing New Mexico> From Lamy a branch road extends to Santa Fe, a distance of eighteen miles. Santa Fe. Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, will be reached Monday evening, and there will be a halt here until noon of the ensuing day. San Francisco street is the chief business thoroughfare of the ancient ca.pital. The old buildings are constructed of adobe^ and in the Mexican style. The burro, a diminutive donkey, is made the chief carrier of burdens; and many of these patient, hard-working little animals are driven into town with packs of wood much larger than themselves. In the centre of the city is the Plaza, or public square, a well-ordered little park, bordered by business houses on three sides and by the old adobe palace on the fourth or north side. In the inclosure is a monument erf'cted in honor of the soldiers who fell at Glorieta and Valverde. The old palace has been 'he seat of government for at least two and a half centuries. It was occupied by a long line of Spanish governors, and, under United States rule, the ancient edifice has still been used as the governor's residence. The interesting 16 IT I early fifty old Pecos Iroad runs ruins of a gradually here is 9n evation of which the iharp fight forces and lies. i there will ef business adobe ^ and carrier of into town :ity is the houses on inclosure Valverde. centuries. tates rule, nteresting collections of the New Mexican Historical Society have been placed in this edifice. In front of the Exposition Building, near the United States Military Post, is a monu- ment erected in honor of Kit Carson. Old Fort Marcy, on the hill above the hotel, was established by General Kearney in 1846. Upon the same site De Vargas encamped in 1693. The old San Miguel Church, on the south side of the river, is supposed to be the oldest place of worship on American soil, having a recorded history as far back as 1580. Near this edifice is St. Michael's College for boys, erected a few years ago, from the tower of which a very fine view of the city and surrounding country is commanded. Near the ancient church is an old house, the walls of which are sup- posed to have great antiquity. They are thought to be the remains of a prehistoric c'ifice. Just across the creek, returning, are the spacious and high ; improved grounds ,v oi' the " Academy of Our Lady of Light," conducted by the ^Sisters of Loretto. The high adobe wall incloses the old Academy building, the new and very beautiful stone chapel of purely gothic architecture, and the commodious new Academy building. Directly in the rear of these grounds are the residence and noted gardens of Archbishop Lamy^ North, a short distance, is the Cathedral ol Santa Fe, which has recently been rebuilt. East of the Cathedral is located the St. Vincent asylum, or hospital, conducted by the Sisters of Charity. Another old church, that of Guadalupe, was, a few years ago, renovated and modernized for the use of the English-speaking Catholics. There are -also several Protestant places of worship. The territorial Capitol is a handsome edifice, which was completed a few years ago. V The Ramona School, situated in the outskirts of the town, is a noble institution for the education of Indian youth, under the direction of Rev. H. O. Ladd. i During the visit to Santa Fe the party will make the cars its headquarters, the train vbeing placed on a side track near the station. ^ I l Hi ! If I i >'■ i ' From Santa Fe Southward. We shall leave Santa Fe Tuesday noon, May 3, proceeding first to Lamy, where we again join the main line of railway. Near Wallace, thirty-one miles from Lamy, we reach the banks of the Rio Grande del Norte, or the Rio Brava del Norte, as it is also called, the chief artery of the water system of the Territory. At this point is the pueblo of Santo Domingo, which is situated upon the bank of the river, within plain sight from the cars. A little farther on is \he pueblo of San Felipe. The former tribe numbers nearly 1,000 and the latter between 500 and 600. The station at Wallace is upon the reservation of the Santo Domingo tribe. The pueblo is two miles distant. Three other IndxdLW pueblos will be passed in the course of the journey, viz : Sandia, twenty-five miles beyond Wallace; Isleta, about twelve miles beyond Albuquerque, and Laguna, on the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, sixty-six miles from Albuquerque. Berna- lillo, twenty miles beyond Wallace and sixteen miles north of Albuquerque, is an old Mexican town that has seen but little change since the railroad invaded its precincts. Albuquerque. The approach to this city is picturesque, the Sandia Mountains, which lie at no great distance northeast, adding to the beauty of the scenery. Albuquerque was a populous Mexican town long before the railroad came, having been christened in honor of the Duke of Albuquerque in the days of Spanish rule. The busy, bustling city of today h.is sprung into existence within the past five years beside the railroad, and is a typical American town; while the old town, three miles distant, is almost distinctly Mexican. The headquarters of the operating department of ihe Atlantic & Pacific Railroad are at Albuquerque, although the actual junction of that road with the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad is thirteen miles south. 18 where we Lamy, we ; it is also nt is the thin plain :mer tribe Vallace is :s distant. : Sandia, jrque, and 2. Berna- is an old precincts. lie at no ue was a stened in , bustling railroad, is ahuost Atlantic road with I The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This railway, over which we travel 747 miles in the next stage of our journey, aids in forming one of the great Pacific Coast branches of the " Santa Fe " system, into which it has lately been absorbed. It extends through New Mexico and Arizona, crossing the latter Territory just north of its centre, and finds in the Mojave Desert of California its western connections with the Southern California Railway Company's lines and the Southern Pacific Railroad. It is a finely constructed road, and forms an important link in the great Santa Fe system. For much of the way it lies along the elevated table-land of Arizona, the scenery of which is much diversified. Leaving Albuquerque, we shall cross the continental divide, 130 miles west of that city and 2,291 feet above it, the greatest elevation being 7,297 feet. At the summit there is little to indicate that one is at the top of a mountain range. Sixty-four miles east of the divide the road passes through the Indian town of Laguna. Near the station of Wingate is Fort Wingate, one of the most important of the western , military posts and the starting point for Zuiii, the famous Indian pt/g6/o which is situ- ated forty-five miles south of the railroad. Another curious Indian ^ued/o, that of ' Acoma, is found sixteen miles south of Laguna. At Gallup, the next station west of Wingate, are extensive coal mines. Defiance is the supply station for P'ort Defiance and the Navajo agency. The great Navajo reservation lies north of the railroad in both New Mexico and Arizona, extending along the line of Colorado and Utah. Manuelito is a station that was named in honor of a former chief of the Navajos. The line between New Mexico and Arizona is crossed between Manuelito and Allantown. The road here runs in proximity to some curiously shaped buttes, while peculiar red cliffs are seen north of the road. A great mass of rock, with cathedral- like pinnacles, seen near "Wingate, is known as the Navajo Church. 19 r Arizona. Arizona comprises 113,916 square miles, an I is the next largest Territory to New Mexico. It is three times the size of the great State of New York, and, like Cali- fornia, possesses within its wide domain nearly every climate. There is much desert and waste land, but some sections are very productive. The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad passes through a large part of the best lands in the Territory, although it also crosses great desert sections, where water is had only by running water-trains from the most convenient springs. There are many thousands of square miles of good grazing lands, and the raising of cattle, sheep, and horses is an important and growing industry. There are great tracts of pine timber, which iS said to be equal to any found in the East. The mining interests of this region have been extensive for more than 300 years. Gold, silver, and copper are found in various sections of the Territory. In the northern part of Arizona, at a considerable distance from the railroad, is that great wonder of the world — the Grand Canon of the Colorado. The famous petrified forests of Arizona are situated twenty-six miles from Holbrook and some ten miles from the railroad. Holbrook is also the point of departure for the Moqui Indian towns, from ninety to 100 miles distant. The Cailon Diablo and the San Francisco Mountains. The Rio Puerco, a small stream along which we have journeyed for some distance before reaching Holbrook, joins the Little Colorado near that place, and the road crosses the latter thirty-two miles farther on, near the lively little town of Winslow. Twenty-six miles beyond Winslow the road crosses the Canon Diablo, an immense, zigzag, yawning chasm in the white and yellow magnesian limestone. The bridge is 20 I 1 541 feet long and 222^^ feet in height, or higher than Bunker Hill Monument. It is an iron structure, a model in its way, and cost $250,000. Long before this the magnificent San Francisco Mountains, a group of lofty, snow- clad peaks which rise a few miles north of the railroad ai Flagstaff, have begun to attract attention. There are three sharp peaks of purest white, supported by dark shoulders of cedar and piiion-covered heights. The main peaks are Humphrey, Agas- siz, and Humboldt. Mount Humphrey is 12,815 fee high, and Mount Agassiz is only 300 feet lower. The elevation of Flagstaff is 6,935 ^^^*» ^^^ ^^^ Arizona divide (a spur of the San Francisco Mountains), a dozen miles beyond, is between 200 and 300 feet higher. 1 ae mountains northeast of the San Francisco group are known as the Coconino range. They are mainly extinct volcanoes. One of them, called Sunset Mountain, presents a singular aspect, the rim of its crater being tipped with red lava. In another of the Coconino hills is a group, numbering sixty-five, of the mysterious cave dwellings, which are supposed to antedate the prehistoric cliff dwellings, an extensive collection of which is found in Walnut Canon, nine miles from Flagstaff. Through a large pa<*t of this section ruins of cities and towns which were built of stone are found. Near Flagstaff the railroad enters the timber region, and the country assumes a beautiful park-like appearance. Extensive lumber mills are situated at Flagstaff. The Marble Canon, the deepest portion of the Grand Canon of the Col- orado — 6,549 feet in depth — is sixty-five miles distant from this station, and north of the San Francisco Mountains. Beyond the San Francisco Mountains there are several detached peaks which appear quite prominent as seen from the railroad. These are Bill Williams's Mountain and Mounts Kendrick, Sitgreave, and Floyd. Near Bill Williams's Mountain is the sta- tion of Williams. Williams war a pioneer settler in this region. Not far from Ash 21 ii ! I % Fork the railroad winds through a rocky pass known as Johnson's Canon. At Peach Springs we are nearer the Grand Canon of the Colorado than we were at Flagstaff, the distance being only twenty-three miles ; and at Hackberry we are in the vicinity of an active and productive mining region. Entering California. The Needles, situated on the California side of the Colorado River — here a broad and rapid stream which is crossed by means of a long bridge — is where we enter Cal- ifornia. There is nothing but a sandy waste for a long distance on each side of the river, but within view at the north are some picturesque mountains which give to the station its name. The Needles is a place of considerable importance, and the Mojave Indians have a reservation near at hand. Proceeding westward the road crosses the great Mojave Desert of California, an elevated tract whereon little else than the yucca palm is seen growing. At Goff's, thirty-two miles west of The Needles, we are at an elevation of 2,580 feet, more than 2,100 feet above the Colorado River. There are numerous lava hills scattered about the eastern section of the desert, and there are picturesque mountain ranges within view at the north. In the Providence Mountains are mines; and near Daggett are the famous Calico Mines, so named from the peculiar appearance of the mountains wherein they are situated. There are extensive borax deposits in the same section. The Southern California Railway Company's Lines. At Barstow we diverge from the main line of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, which extends on to Mojave, and continue southward over the Southern California Railway Company's lines, in order to make a detour through Southern California. At this t Peach lagstaff, vicinity a broad ter Cal- i of the e to the Mojave sses the e yucca re at an iiere are here are ountains peculiar e borax d, which Railway At this i :iA' I point standard time makes its last change, from Mountain (105th meridian) to Pacific (i20th meridian), which is one hour slower, or three hours slower than Eastern time. The Southern California Railway Company's lines cover the extensive system of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad in Southern California, or, rather, all of it that is lot includejj by the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This latter line of railway extends across Arizona and California, uniting with the Southern Pacific Company's road at Mojave. The Southern California Company's lines reach Pasadena, Los Angeles, San Diego, Redlands, Riverside, Redondo IJeach, and nearly all the impor- tant points in that section oi" the State. Emerging from the Mojave Desert and following up for a time the Mojave River, which farther north disappears altogether in a desert •' sink," our train climbs the slopes of the San Bernardino range towards the Cajon Pass, which pierces the moun- tain wai! not far east of the snow-capped peak known as "Old lialdy," While approaching the pass, and while descending the steep grades on the otherside, the traveler enjoys a succession of magnificent views. The summit of the pass is 3,819 feet above the sea, or 1,714 feet above IJarstow. Southern California. From the scene of siindy waste and desolation presented by the Mojave Desert, we emerge into the garden of California, a region where the flowers and fruits of the semi- tropics grow in profusion. The transition is a welcome one, and luxuriant orange groves and vineyards take the place of desert sands. The air becomes fragrant with the sweet breath of orange blossoms. Suow-clad peaks rise behind us, and in front is spread out the broad and fruitful valley in which San Bernardino, Redlands, Coltjn, Riverside, and dozens of other towns are situated. We have meanwhile crossed a »3 portion of the county of San Bernardino, which, with its 23,472 square miles of area, is larger than four of the New England States — Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut combined. Besides oranges and grapes, which constitute the chief products of Southern California, lemons, limes, olives, citrons, figs, pomegranates, almonds, English walnuts, and other strange fruits and nuts, grow Ifere, as do also the cactus, palm, pepper tree, acacia, and eucalyptus. On descending from the mountains we pass through the old town of San Bernardino. On a mountain-side at the left, as we approach this city, may be seen the famous Indian arrow-head, a huge discolora- tion of the slopes over a quarter of a mile long. Riverside?. We shs.ll first visit Riverside, nine miles from San Bernardino. This is one of the most beautiful towns in California. It is devoted largely to the culture of the orange, and immense quantities of the fruit are annually shipped East. Some of the finest orange orchards in the country are in or near Riverside. The residents, largely Eastern people, have picturesque homes, surrounded by gardens and shrubbery. Magnolia avenue is a magnificent double driveway divided by a row of pepper trees, and lined for many miles with handsome villas and lovely gardens. San Diego and Coronado Beach. On leaving Riverside we shall proceed southward over the Southern California sys- tem to San Diego. On our arrival ?t San Diego, Friday morning, we shall take omnibuses for the famous Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, crossing the bay by ferry. San Diego county, -Uh its 14,969 square miles, a larger r.rea than any of the New Enp'and States except Maine, and nearly twice the size of Massachusetts, is the 24 'I- southernmost county of California, and adjoins Mexico. The city of San Diego, situated upon its southern sea-coast and only a few miles from the national boundary Hne, is the oldest of the California mission towns, the first of the mission churches having been planted there in 1769; but like Los Angeies it owes its present iniport'.nce to recent growth. The development of this section has followed the extension of the Santa Fe system into this region. The present number of inhabitants is 16,153. In 1880 the accredited population was 2,637. With a remarkably fine climate, unsur- passed on the whole globe for equability and salubrity, San Diego is naturally a favorite place of resort tor Eastern visitors. The fruits of the temperate zone and the tropics here grow side by side ; and the yield, both of vegetables and fruits, is immense. The magnificent Hotel del Coronado was erected by the Coronado Beach Company, and is one of the finest resorts on the Pacific Coast. Some idea of its size may be gained when it is known that it has a frontage of 1,300 feet and contains 750 rooms. The total floor surface is seven and a half acres, and the dining-room has a seating capacity of 1,000. Water flows into the hotel from a mineral spring, already famous on account of its medicinal properties. From San Diego to Los Angeles. . Monday morning we shall leave Coronado Beach and San Diego, and retrace our way in daylight over a charming section of country previously traversed by night. For a considerable distance we are upon the shore of the ocean, along which are some charming views. On leaving the sea we enter a region of orange orchards and vineyards. A few miles from Oceanside is the old Mission of San Luis Rey de Francia, and near San Juan is that of San Juan Capistrano, both in ruins. The latter was destroyed by an earthquake soon after its erection in 1776. The ruins of San 25 I I w i 'iirl JW Juan Capistrano Mission are seen from the train. After dinner at San Bernardino we continue over the Southern California Railway Company's line through another series of populous and thrifty valley towns, including Ontario, Pomona, Lordtiburg, Duarte, Monrovia, Santa Anita, Lamanda Park, and Pasadena, to Los Angeles, where we shall make our n^xt sojourn. The Nadeau, Westminster, and HoUenbeck will be made the headquarters of the party. Los Angeles. Los Angeles, the metropolis of Southern California, or La Puebla dela Reina de Ics Angeles (literally the town of the Queen of the Angels, to give its old Spanish title in full), is situated in the great southern fruit belt, 482 miles south of San Francisco by railway. The town was founded in 1781. It had already attained considerable size and dignity at the time of the American conquest, although its chief increase in population, business importance, and wealth has been the result of recent growth. From a little collection of adobe huls it has become a handsome city. With less than 12,000 inhabitants in 1880, it had ia 1890 increased in population to 50,394. The city has eighty miles of graded streets, fifteen of which are paved or macadamized, and is very brilliantly lighted with electricity. The street-car system includes twenty-one miles of cable lines, eight or ten miles of electric railways, and horse-car lines in addition. The city is spread over a large area, and extends far out over a level country beautifully shaded. The old section of the town was irregularly built of adobe ; but the march of improvement has left but few relics of early Los Angeles, except the original church, which stands upon Main street, in the midst of all the life and bustle of the rejuvenated city — a quaint reminder of other days. The main thoroughfares have an aspect of business activity that even San Francisco cannot 26 'V> excel. The public buildings are spacious and elegant, and the business blocks in many instances imposing. Among the handsome edifices recently built are a Court House, which cost $410,000; the Young Men's Christian Association Building, costing $150,000; the Women's Christian Temperance Union Building, costing $45,000; an orphan asylum, costing $60,000; the Burbank Theatre, costing $200,000; City Hall, costing $208,000; Post Office, costing $54,000; a government building, costing $250,- 000; and the Southern Pacific Company's new station, on Alameda street, foot of Fifth street, costing $250,000. A ride about the city in any direction cannot fail to delight the stranger. There are substantial evidences of wealth and prosperity on every hand. Redondo Beach. On Tuesday an excursion will be made to Redondo Beach, twenty-two and a half miles distant. The ride thither is through a pleasant regio^^ devoted largely to vine- yards and orange orchards. The beach is a charming spot, and the recent erection of an elegant hotel has enhanced its attractiveness. It is one of the most popular of Southern California's shore resorts. Pasadena. Another excursion will be made to include Pasadena and its beautiful surroundings. Pasadena, one of the most favored winter retreats on the Pacific Coast, is charmingly situated nine miles from Los Angeles. The Raymond at East Pasadena is a mile nearer. Its situation in the higher part of the valley, over 500 feet above Los Angeles and nearly 1,000 feet above the sea, with the noble range of the Sierra Madre towering above it at no great distance in the north, and great stretches of orange orchards and vineyards adorning the gently rolling surface of the country 27 ; i^i; . ,.■ south and east, gives it every advantage of picturesqueness, while no place on the entire Pacific Coast can surpass it for healthfulness. For miles around the fair surface of the valley and the mountain benches are dotted with handsome villas, each with its individual surrounding of garden and orchard. Although a place of gardens, vineyards, and groves, the city has a population of over 10,000, and is provided with all modern improvements. Carriages will be in waiting at the station on our arrival, and an extended ride will be taken through the hanasome city and its environs. Raymond Hill, which commands a magnificent view, Raymond avenue, Orange Grove avenue, Colorado street, Lamanda Park, and other points in and about Pasadena will be visited. The party will return to Los Angeles in time for lunch. From Los Angeles to Santa Barbara. Leaving Los Angeles by the Southern Pacific Company's main line Thursday morn- ing, May 12, we proceed northward thereon as far as Saugus, thirty-two miles, and then journey westward seventy-eight miles over the company's Santa Barbara Branch. Twenty-six miles north of Los Angeles and 1,200 feet above it, we go through the San Fernando Tunnel. From Saugus we descend through the picturesque Santa Clara Valley. At Camulosis the ranch where Ramona, the heroine of Helen Hunt Jackson's touching story, lived. From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara the railroad follovs the seashore, and many charming views are had, with the broad Pacific Ocean on one side and the mountains and picturesque valleys on the other. , This beaui resorts. It is u Santa Barbara. 1 city by the sea is one of the best known of all the Southern Pacific ightfully situated upon a gentle slope, with the blue waters of the 28 I Pacific on one side and the purple peaks of the Santa Inez Mountains, fro'm 3,500 to 4,000 feet high, on the other. Here the Franciscans established a mission in 1782, which is still one of the most picturesque objects in California. Santa Barbara has a population of about 6,000 people, whose homes are embowered in gardens of roses, and shaded by the eucalyptus, palm, pepper, and magnolia. The view oceanward embraces the hill-studded islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Ana- capa. We shall make The Arlington our headquarters during our stay. The sur- roundings of Santa Barbara are very romantic, and a carriage ride to some of the various points of interest will be a feature of our visit. State street, upon which The Arlington is situated, has been paved with concrete, and is now one of the finest avenues in America. The old Franciscan Mission, the best preserved of all the old California churches, stands upon an elevated slope back of tjhe town, forming a picturesque object in the outlook towards the rugged mountains. Montecitoisalovely suburb of Santa Barbara, and there are some hot springs on the heights beyond. From Santa Barbara to San Francisco. The Yosemite parties will leave Santa Barbara on different days, and those who proceed directly through to San Francisco will go with the last party. The dates of departure of the Yosemite excursionists will be made, as far as possible, to meet individual preferences. Returning from Santa Barbara to Saugus, we resume our northward journey at that point over the Southern Pacific Company's main line. Durmg the early part of the trip we traverse the western section of the Mojave Desert, through the eastern part of which we journeyed on first entering California. The yucca jalms are again found in great abundance, and relieve the desert expanse of its otherwise barren aspect. The fibre is used in the manufacture of paper. 29 1(;J i|! i( W ;: ^ \ About 120 miles north of Los Angeles is the famous Tehachapi Pass. The railroad here cr'^sses a group of mountains belonging to the terminating southwestern spur of the Sierra Nevada, at an elevation of 3,964 feet above the sea. It was not so much the elevation as the broken country that presented difficulties in the way of engineering; and it was only by a series of bewildering curves, in one of which the road actually crosses its own line that a practicable route was found across the mountains. The "loop " is 3,795 feet in length, and the lower track is 78 feet beneath the upper one. The actual point of crossing is at the ninth of the seventeen tunnels that are encount- ered between the suminit and Caliente. North of these hills are a series of broad plains and wide valleys. The valley of the San Joaquin is followed until its union with the Sacramento, and the road then courses along the borders of the straits and bays until it reaches Oakland. Skirting the shores of San Pablo Bay and rounding the point at San Pablo station, we look across the bay and harbor of San Francisco, .and out through the portals of the Golden Gate toward the broad Pacific. As the train sweeps on through the outskirts of Oakland the traveler gains only a hint of the beauty of the place ; but the greater city across the bay, which climbs and scrambles over a group of steep hills, is our destination; and leaving Oakland behind us, we speed on to the long pier, from whence a huge ferry-boat conveys us to the opposite shore. Berenda, 304 miles from Los Angeles and 178 miles from San Francisco, is the point of departure from the main line for the Big Trees and the Yosemite Valley. A br.inch railroad extends from Berenda to Raymond, twenty-one miles, from which lat- ter point the stages run. The Yosemite parties will go through from Santa Barbara to Raymond on special sleeping-cars. 30 the A lat- bara San Francisco and the Palace Hotel. The metropolis of the Pacific Coast is one of the most interesting cities in America, and is becoming more beautiful and attractive year by year. It is naturally cosmopol- itan in character, and the visitor can take a foreign jaunt in miniature by walking through certain sections of the town. In some particulars, and notably in its street- car service, which consists largely of " cable roads," it is in advance of the older cities of the country. With one of the finest harbors on the globe, and occupying an impor- tant position in connection with the world's commerce, its shipping interests are of vast proportions. The growth of the city has been very rapid, especially since the opening of the Central Pacific Railroad in 1869. The population of the city, accord- ing to the late census, is 297,990, an increase of 64,03! in ten years. San Francisco is now eighth in size in the list of American cities, having left Cincinnati behind in the last decade. The greatest curiosity in San Francisco is the Chinese quarter, a rectangular block seven squares in length by three and four in breadth. It is near the business centre, and only a few blocks away from the palaces of the railway millionaires. The houses are nearly all tall, decayed buildings, swarming with tenants. The blocks are cut up into sections by narrow alleys, and filled with squalid underground dens, and atiics whose overhanging dormer windows shut out all but a slender patch of sky. The cellars are occupied as shops, factories, or opium dens. The main streets are lined by the stores of the large Chinese merchants. You find yourself in a populous corner of China. Even the fronts of the houses have assumed a Celestial aspect, not only in the signs and placards at the windows and shop fronts, but in the altered architecture and decorations. An interesting experience is to spend a half-hour in watching the performance in a Chinese theatre, and listening to the ear-piercing, mournful music, fs I: p. y^:i!ii and then adjourn to a neighboring restaurant, drink genuine Chinese tea in Celestial style, and taste the cakes, preserved watermelon, and sweetmeats. In all the stores and other portions of the Chinese quarter eastern visitors are received with the great- est courtesy. The City Hall, which in an unfinished condition has cost $4,000,000, is between Market, McAllister, and Larkin streets, opposite Eighth street; the Mechanics' Pavilion, on Market street near the City Hall ; the branch United States Mint, at the southwest corner of Mission and Fifth streeis, is open for visitors from 9 to 11; the Post Office and Custom House are at the corner of Washington and Battery streets, and the chief branch office (station D) is at the foot of Market street ; the Merchants' Exchange Building, on California street; the San Francisco Stock Exchange, No. 327 Pine street; the old City Hall, corner Kearney and Washington streets; the rooms of the California Pioneers, on Fourth street, near Market street; Odd Fellows' Hall, corner Market and Seventh streets ; Masonic Temple, corner Post and Montgomery streets; the new Union Club Building, corner of Union square and Stockton street; the Young Men's Christian Association rooms, 232 Sutter street ; San Francisco Art Association, 430 Pine street; Mineralogical Museum of the Suite Mining Bureau, 24 Fourth street ; the Free Library (40,000 volumes). Bush street, above Kearney street ; Mechanics' Institute (library of 35,000 volumes), 31 Post street ; Mercantile Library Building, corner Van Ness and Golden Gate avenues; Museum of the California Academy of Sciences, on Market street; and the State Board of Trade, History Build- ing* 743 Market street. Golden Gate Park, a beautiful tract of 1,013 acres, reclaimed from the sand dunes, is about three and a half miles from the Palace Hotel, and may be reached by several of the cable-car lines. There are band concerts in the Park every Saturday and Sunday in the afternoon. The Beach, Cliff House, and Seal 32 mmmm u Rocks are about the same distance beyond the entrance to the park, and may be reached by the Haight street cable cars and a connecting dummy line, and also by the California street cable line, or the new Powell and Jackson street line. Sutro Heights are near the Cliff House. The Presidio (a military reservation of 1,500 acres) may be reached by the Union street cable cars and a dummy line. A band plays at the barracks at 2.00 P. M. daily except Thursday and Saturday. Telegraph Hill (elevation 794 feet, and overlooking the city and the bay) is about half a mile from the Palace Hotel, at the opposite extremity of Montgomery street. The chief places of amusement are the following : Baldwin Theatre, Baldwin Hotel, Market street ; Alcazar Theatre, 114 O'Farrell near Stockton ; Orpheum Opera House, 119 O'Farrell street, opposite the Alcazar; Bush Street Theatre, south side of Bush, between Mont- gomery and Kearney; the new California Theatre (one of the handsomest playhouses in America), Bush, above Kearney; Grand Opera House, Mission, between Third and Fourth ; Standard Theatre, north side of Bush, between Montgomery and Kearney ; Tivoli Opera House, Eddy, near Market; Woodward's Gardens, Mission, between Thirteenth and Fifteenth; Grand Chinese Theatre, 814 Washington street; Panorama Buildings, corner Eddy and Mason streets, and corner Tenth and Market streets. The chief cable-car lines are on Market street and on thoroughfares radiating there- from, viz; : Sutter, Post, Geary, Powell, McAllister, Hayes, Haight, Valencia, and Castro streets. There are also lines on Howard, California, Clay, Jackson, Union, Larkin, and other streets. The " dummy " street lines are the Geary, California, Jackson, and Union streets extensions, and the Park and Ocean road. There are, in addition, nearly a score of lines of horse railways running within the city. The Palace Hotel, which will be the headquarters of our excursionists in San Fran- cisco, is a vast establishment, and in reality one of the wonders of the Pacific Coast. 33 ^__^__ t>:^ ■ Kiii ! Not only is it one of the largest hotels in the world, but at the same time one of the richest and most elegant. In one edifice it covers the block bounded by New Mont- gomery, Market, Annie, and Jessie streets, occupying an area of 96,250 feet ; and the distance around its outer wall is exactly one quarter of a mile. In addition the Grand Hotel, on the opposite corner of Market and New Montgomery streets, has been absorbed in this colossal hostelry. Compared even with the largest hotels in eastern cities. The Palace seems of vast proportions. The visitor is first ushered into the grand central court. This is a noble enclosure, 144 by 84 feet, seven stories high, and roofed with glass, into which carriages are driven. Ornamental balconies run around the four sides at each floor. Around the ground promenade are grouped the office, reception-parlors, reading-rooms, breakfast and di tiag-rooms, cafe, restaurant, etc., with wide, communicating hallways, the chief pven feet, ibove the than six- 'here are tubes for oom, din- )alatial in ut, is the art. The ning feat- ures of the massive fronts. The deep foundation wall is twelve feet thick. Stone, iron, brick, and marble are the chief materials of this great structure, and of brick alone 31,000,000 were used. All outer and inner and partition walls, from base to top, are solid stone and brick, built around, within, and upon a huge skeleton of broad, wrought-iron bands, thickly bolted together, and of such immense size as to have required 3,000 tons for this purpose alone. Four artesian wells, having a tested capacity of 28,000 gallons an hour, supply the great 630,000-gallon reservoir under the central court, besides filling the seven roof tanks, holding 130,000 gallons more. Not only in the vast proportions of the edifice, but in every appointment, the stranger is impressed with a sense of the fitness of the name. Prom San Francisco to Santa Cruz. Leaving San Francisco Tuesday morning, May 24, we shall proceed to Santa Cruz, eighty miles distant. Our route lies over the narrow-gauge division of the Southern Pacific Company's line, through Alameda, Newark, Santa Clara, San Jose, and Los Gatos and thence through the picturesque coast range of mountains. Los Gatos, like San Jose, is famed for its vineyards and fruit orchards. In its course through the mountains, beyond Los Gatos, the road makes many twists and turns. There are several tunnels on this part of the line, one of which is 3,800 feet in length. A part of the way lies through a grand redwood forest ; and a short distance beyo. J Felton, and within half a dozen miles of Santa Cruz, are the *' Big Trees," a group of giant red- woods^ the Sr^uosa s^m/er vtrgns oi the botanist. The largest of these is said to be 366 feet high and twenty feet in diameter. " Fremont's Tree " contains an aperture in which the late General Fremont and an exploring party camped several weeks, and in which at another time, a trapper and his family made their home. Other trees and 35 n shrubs grow here in profusion, including the Madrona^ the Manzanita, and the Cali- fornia laurel, or bay tree, together with a variety of ferns, some of which are very beautiful. Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is situated at one extremity of Monterey Bay, with a picturesque coast and a matchless beach. The forest-clad slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains are only a few miles away, and form an interesting feature, with a foreground of gardens, groves, and pretty homes. The view in every direction is charming. The cliffs are in places very abrupt, and the sea has carved them into grottoes, natural bridges, and curiously formed towers. In the course of our stay here there will be a carriage ride, in which both the beach and the cliffs will be visited. From Santa Cruz to Monterey. The quaint old town of Monterey lies at the opposite extremity of Monterey Bay from Santa Cruz. The two places are only about a score of miles away, but we must travel more than twice that distance around the shore. This is done on the Southern Pacific Company's broad-gauge Santa Cruz line, which connects with the main line of the Monterey route at Pajaro Juncrion. There are many magnificent coast views on leaving Santa Cruz, and also near Soquel and Aptos. Watsonville is the most important town on this part of the route. Monterey and the Blegrant Hotel del Monte. The party will reach the famous Hotel del Moiite, at Monterey, late in the after- noon. Several days are to be devoted to this charming resort. Monterey is one of the most interesting of the old Spanish towns on the Pacific Coast, having been associated with the earliest historic events of the State and the 36 earlier province, and is delightfully situated upon the sloping shores of the beautiful bay of the same name. That California's first capital became simply Monterey, and was robbed of its former pompous position, the traveler and health-seeker who wan- ders through its peaceful streets will have no reason to regret. One may even be thankful that its beautiful location has not been monopolized by trade and commerce, and its fine bay and sea view marred by the inevitable disfigurement of traffic and its adjuncts. The bay of Monterey is a magnificent sheet of water. There is a wealth of color in both sea and sky highly suggestive of Southern Italy. Upon the beaches below Monterey are foc:nd many varieties of sea mosses, shells, pebbles, and agates, and some of these are very brilliant in color. The bay is well protected, and is delightfully adapted to yachting; and the lovers of angling also find abundant sport, both on the sea and in neighboring streams. In 1880 Monterey became a fashionable watering-place. The site selected for the famous Hotel del Monte was in a stately grove of pine, oak. and cedar, the trees being sufficiently scattered to admit of tho adornment of the grounds by means of driveways, foot-paths, lawns, and beds of flowers. A plat of 126 acres was set aside and inclosed as the hotel grounds, while 7,ooct acres more were purchased for other purposes. The fact that *^he visitor may ride a score of miles over well-kept, macadamized roads, and be nearly all the time within the borders of the hotel company's properly, serves to show, in some measure, the v.^st extent of these possessions. The new Hotel del Monte is much larger and in ev ry way more magq^cent than the former structure. It has the same situation and the identical picturesque surroundings, whereiu na.ure and art have combined to create a veritable paraoise of groves and flowers. In its external and internal appearance, and in the social atmosphere and tcne which pervade the entire establishment, the Hotel del Monte reminds one infinitely 37 ?> Ill!;;i ! lil li '' ■#, irore of a modern English country mansion than of an American watering-place hotel. While the general style of the old structure has been preserved, there have been many importani, modifications of the former plan The general design includes a central edifice, with two extensive wings or annexes, connected with the central struct'^rc by arcades, which extend in semi-circular form oil each side. There are in the main stfacture no rooms and in each annex i6o rooms, or 430 apartments in all. The general she of the rov»n:is is 16 by 19 feet. The verandas are very apacious, and the profusion of tJowers about the house make^ it especially attractive. There is a mag- nincent outlook upon shrubs and flowers in evory direction. The Laguna del Rey is a beautiful lake, ornamented with a mammoth fountain ; and the famous beach, with its magnificent bath building, containing, in addition to its ^reat swimming-tank, 210 dressing-rooms, h but a short distance away. Figures, however, convey little impres- sion of the peculiar charm of this elegant anc" unique resort, upon which many hundreds of thousands of doilurs — over a million in fact — have been lavished. In the grounds ^re the stables, elaborate and complete, stocked with handsome horses and vehicles *. f all kinds ; for riding and driving are tavorUe pastimes. The "eighteen- n.ile drive " around the peninsuh is one of the grandest in the world. The Hotel del Monte is under the personal supervision and management of Mr. Georg Schonewald, who has been identified with its direction nearly from the start, and to whose taste and skill its immense popularity is largely due. i^. m Prom Monterey to San Jone. Leaving tht Hotel del Monte Frir'ay afternoon, we shall journey northward tr r»xn Jose via Castioville. Fajaro, Gilroy, and Hillsdale. From all these i^ointt t ..ui 38 % lines extend, the one from the Utic place leading to the famous quicksilver mines at Almaden, eight miles distant in the mountains west of Hillsdale. San Jose. On our arrival in this charming city wc shall proceed to the elegant Hotel Vendome. With a population of about 50,000, San Jose is nevertheless a city of gardens, orchards, and vineyards. It is one of the great centres of the cherry culture. The streets are spacious and lined with shade trees, and the public and many of the private buildings are quite imposing. Among the forme are the Court House, City Hall, and the Normal School, which stands in a park of twenty-eight acres. The State Hospital for the Chronic Insane is at Agnew's, five miles distant. The Ven- dome occupies, with its surrounding park, a square of twelve acres in the prettiest section oi the city. It is one of the neatest and best-equipped hotels in California. ■"-'"': Mount Hamilton and the Lick Observatory. Ok. .^u» Jay the party will make an excursion by stage to the summit of Mount Hamiltoi"*. '.us site of the Lick Observatory. The elevation of the observatory is 4,209 feet, and San Jose stands eighty lect above the scu level. The a'r-line distance between the two points is only thirteer. milej, but the road is twenty-six miles in length. The gradient is in all places kept less than six and a halt feet in the hundred (343 feet to the mile), this being maintained through a series of turns no less than 367 in num- ber. The road was built by the county of Santa Clara at a cost of over $75,000, in Pvirdance with an agreement made between the supervisors and James Lick a few Kv '•'^; brljre he died. It is a remarkable piece of engineering, and the ride is a coY^t. ftunt Pitt (9,500 feet). The railway strikes across to the Siskiyou range, first descending to and crossing the Klamath River, the second largest stream in California. Not far north of the Klamath we cross the line into Oregon, and soon after dive into the Siskiyou Tunnel, losing sight of the great California mountain. On the north side of the range we emerge into the charming valley of the Kogue River, a region of rich farms. Farther north is the valley of the Umpc;ua River, and from thence we cross to the valley of the Willamette, which we descrnd for nearly 200 miles to Portland. This valley, with its vast grain fields and its teeming farms, is almost a repetition of the valley of the Sacramento. The mountain views are superb. The Three Siisters are seen from the upper part of ihc valley. As we near Portland some of the great northern peaks are in view — Jefferson (9,020 feet), Adams (9,570 feet), St. Helen's (9f750 feet), Hood (11,025 feet), and perhaps far-away Tacoma (14,444 feet). Later in our tour we see most of these beautiful mountain forms at closer range. 43 Oregon and Washington. As these two subdivisions of the United States are closely allied in industry and commerce, as well as in geographical features, they should be considered together. Oregon has an area of 95,275 square miles, and the new State of Washington 69,994 square miles. The recent census gave the former a population of 312,490 — an increase of 137,722 in ten years and 221,467 in twenty years. Washington was found to have 349,516 — an increase of 274,400 in ten years and 325,561 in twenty years. The Cascade Mountains, a broad volcanic plateau, separate both Oregon and Washington into two unequal divisions. Westward c^ this mountain chain, from forty to seventy miles distant, as we have already seen, is still another and lower range lying along the coast. Within this great basin, about 400 miles in length, are many fertile valleys and the great timber region of the Puget Sound district. The climate of this section is mild and equable, with an abundant rain*fall. The area east of the Cascade range, extending to the base of the Blue and liitter Root Mountains, presents many features in marked contrast to those of the coast region. A narrow strip on the north is moun> tainous and covered with forest, but the greater portion embraces the immense plains and undulating prairies of the Columbia Hasin — 150 miles wide and nearly 500 miles long. Within the limits of this basin are a score of valleys, several of which are larger than some European principalities. In this eastern section the temperature is higher in summer and lower in winter than in the coast region, and the rain-fall is only half as great ; but the conditions are, in a large part of the tract, excellent for cereal crops. Agriculture is the leading industry, and wheat the principal product. The raising of cattle, sheep, and horses is second in importance only to agriculture. Gold mining is carried on to some extent at scattered points, and especially in Southern Oregon ; but coal and iron take the leading places among the mineral productions, the principal 4} If ml 11 1 III i 'I! I mines being near Puget Sound. The Columbia River may be navigated for 725 miles, the Willamette for 138 miles, and the Snake for a considerable distance. An attempt to form a Territorial government was made as early as 1841, before the dispute about the boundary line arose between the United States and Great Britain. The present dividing line between the United States and the British possessions was established by the treaty of June 15, 1846. In 1853 the Territory was divided, and what was known as the District of Vancouver became Washington Territory. Oregon was organized as a State in 1859, with a population of 52,465 ; and Washington was admitted to statehood, together with Montana and the two Dakotas, in 1889. From Portland to Dalles City. We shall reach Portland Friday forenoon, but defer our inspection of the city until our return from our trip on the Columbia River. Our Pullman train will be transferred to the tracks of the Union Pacific Company's Oregon line, and we shall continue our journey eastward a distance of eighty-eight miles to Dalles City, where we shall remain upon the cars over night. The views of the Columbia River and its noble boundaries had from the cars are not less interesting than those from a steamer's deck. The ftad runs almost beneath the spray of Multnomah Falls, which in two great plunges descends 800 feet. The falls are situated in a romantic gorge only a short distance fron. the railway, and there are a number of grand points of observation readily accessible. The train passes near numerous remarkable rock for- mations, and directly between the " Pillars of Hercules." There are several fine falls near the road in addition to beautiful Multnomah, but they are better seen from the steamer's deck than from the cars. The railway ride will occupy the greater part of the afternoon. 44 • Dalles City. Just below the Great Dalles of the Columbia, where the whole volume of the river, at its ordinary height, runs for about one and one-half miles through a narrow gorge in the basalt, averaging not over loo yards in width and in the narrowest part only sixty feet wide, the hills open out, giving position to a charming place called Dalles City, one of the oldest-settled points east of the Cascades. The streets are laid out regularly along and up the slopes, and are for the most part lined with shade trees. Several of the churches and school edifices are very handsome and attractive. As we are to reach Dalles City at an early hour, there will probably be time to climb the heights in rear of the town, from whence a magnificent view is obtained. The Columbia River, Thursday morning we leave the cars and go on board the steamer for a return trip down the noble Columbia River. The first stage of our voyage is as far as the Upper Cascades. The scenery in this pan of the river — the Middle Columbia, as it is generally termed — differs somewhat from that below the cascades, but is at all times very picturesque. The banks are chiefly mountainous or precipitous cliffs, save at the entrance of Hood River, on the south, and White Salmon River, on the north, which open up something like valleys. With the exception of these two limited dis- tricts, there is little farming land for seventy-five miles along the river. Hood River is fed by the snows on the mountain of the same name. Some magnificent views of this grand mountain form are had on the way down the river. An occasional glimpse is caught of Mount Adams, but this mountain is generally hidden by nearer hills. The shores are for the most part densely wooded with maple, alder, ash, and willow ; while the mountains are clothed with pines and firs. Here and there are huge cones and • 45 m walls of bare rock. In one place a great mountain of solid rock rears itself i,ooo feet or more above the river, like the gable end of some giant's habitation. A Portage Around the Cascades. Forty-five miles below Dalles City and a short distance from Bonneville, the pas- sengers are forced to land and make a transfer around the cascades of the Columbia. This is done by means of a narrow-gauge railway, six miles in length, which runs along the northern shore to the Lower Cascade . The river here is unnavigable, the water pouring over its rocky bed in a tumultuous torrent. The government is building a canal, with locks, around the obstruction, but the work is beset by many difficulties and enormous expense. We are here in tht very heart of the mountain range which has derived its name from these cascades, and which is continued hundreds of miles southward through California as the Sierra Nevada. Near the Upper Cascades, on the Washington side of the river, on a point of land that iuts out so as to make a good defensive position, is the old block-house, built nearly forty years ago as a means of protection against the Indians. In the outbreak of 1855 ^^^ block-house became the refuge of the settlers, and it was successfully defended under direction of young Lieutenant — afterwards the famous Lieutenant-General — Phillip Henry Sheridan. Near this same point the Indian village of Wish-ram, referred to in Washington Irving's Astoria^ and also by Lewis and Clark, existed early in the present century. Again upon the Columbia. Embarking upon another steamer below the cascades, we continue our down-river trip on this noble stream. We are still in the heart of the Cascade range, and the scenery is wonderfully picturesque. We are near Castle Rock, a massive mountain 46 which stands boldly forth on the north shore i,ooo feet high. A little way below, on the same side of the river, is Cape Horn, a bold headland of basaltic rock which forms just above it a picturesque little bay. On the opposite cliffs, marking the Oregon shore, are several falls, which almost rival in loftiness those in the Yosemite Valley. Multnomah we have already seen on shore. The view from the steamer's deck is even more enchanting than the nearer one, since it includes much more of the surroundings. The Bridal Veil, the Latourelle, and the Oneonta are three beautiful falls, the latter being nearly as high as Multnomah. At other points flashes of foam, high amid the trees of the mountain-side, mark the presence of unnamed and unvisited cascades. Other strange objects of interest are the tall pillars of rock which rise from the water or from the narrow shelf of shore along which the railway trains are seen creeping. Rooster Rock and the Pillars of Hercules are the most prominent of these. In places the cliffs crowded the river so closely that the jnen who did the blasting for the railway were let down from above bv slings. We gradually get beyond the mountains, and then new pictures of beauty are formed by the tall symmetrical snow pinnacle of Mount Hood, which rises now behind us. Washougal, La Camas, and Vancouver arc towns upon the Washingtoa shore, the latter being only six miles above the mouth of the Willamette, and an important military post. It occupies the site of old Fort Vancouver. The Union Pacific ^ ilway Company is building a bridge across the Columbia at this point. Three muv:. up the Willamette there is a magnificent mountain view, five of the snow-capped peaks being visible at once. With the exception of Mount Tacoma, these mountains are exceeded in loftiness by many hundred elevations in the Rocky Mountain chain ; but here the beholder is nearly at the sea level, while no other high mountains aire near, so that the glittenng silver crowns ssem supreme, towering far above every other object. 47 iMB^MMMaMarifel mmtm mtmam liiiii ii-lfil Portland, Ore. We shall reach Portland about 5.00 p. m., and there will be an omnibus transfer from the wharf to the new and magnificent hotel, The Portland. This establishment has been erected by a company of citizens at a cost of about ^750,000, and is one of the finest hotels on the Pacific Coast. It occupies a whole square in one of the pleas- antest and healthiest sections of the city, and has been furnished in a lavish manner. Its manager is Mr. Charles E. Leland, a member of a famous hotel-keeping family, and personally popular through his connection with well-known Eastern hotels. Portland has progressed rapidly within the past few years. Populous suburbs are growing up on the east or op|>osite side of the Willamette, in connection with the railroad shops, flouring mills, and other manufacturing establishments. Portland has sixty miles of paved streets and twenty miles of street railway. Although Astoria was settled as early as 181 1, the first white man is supposed to have landed upon the present site of Portland in 1843. Missionaries had established themselves in Eastern Oregon nine years before, and only five years later the much-respected Dr. Marcus Whitman and his companions were massacred. The founders of Portland were two New England men; and, in bestowing a name upon the place, it is said to have been actually a toss up whether the chief city of Maine or the city at the head of Massachusetts Bay should bear the honor of the designation. The business thoroughfares are lined with fine edifices, and some of the residences on the upper streets are very tasteful, as well as elegant and costly. The Chinese, who form a large element in the population, are seen everywhere. "Chinatowti" is not a contracted quarter, as in San Francisco and Los Angeles, but is scattered along the best portion of Second street for a dozen squares or more. Many of the churches and school buildings are imposing, and the same may be said of the Post Office and some of the 48 :er from lent has i of the e pleas- manner, nily, and ^)rtland wing up d shops, miles of jttled as ; site of ;on nine nan and England y a toss 2tts Bay ned with tasteful, nent in quarter, >rtion of 1 school le of the other public edifices. Among the buildings under construction are a commodious union railway station, a fine edifice on Stark street, between Third and Fourth streets, for the occupancy of the Chamber of Commerce, a City Hall of handsome propor- tions, and a Public Library. The recent census gave Portland a population of 47,294, while its dependent suburbs — East Portland and Albina — were credited with 10,481 and 5,104 respectively. From the slopes back of the city the views are magnificent. Mount Hood is here the dominant feature in the landscape, lifting its proud head above the far-stretching forests; while the beautifully rounded snow-clad top of Mount St. Helen's and some of the other mountains already mentioned, are also in sight. A small but comfortable hotel, called " Cloud Cap Inn," has lately been erected on Mount Hood, and excur- sions to the summit are frequently made from Portland. The trip occupies several days. There will be a carriage ride Monday morning through the finest business and residence portions of the city, and to the heights above. From Portland to Tacoma. The journey from Portland to Tacoma, a distance of 145 miles, will be made upon the Northern Pacific Railroad. At Hunter's, thirty-eight miles from Portland, the train is taken upon the large ferry-boat "Tacoma," and conveyed across the Columbia River to Kalama, on the right or Washington bank of the stream. P'or eight miles the road then follows the Columbia, and for a farther distance of eighteen miles it extends up the east bank of the Cowlitz River. Then it crosses to the valley of the Chehalis, and from thence to the valley of the Puyallup, at the mouth of which, and on the shores of Puget Sound, the city of Tacoma lies. 49 :1 I The Alaskar Voyage, On arriving at Tacoma we shall go at once on board the Alaska steamer " The Queen," which is to b'^ our home during the coming eleven or twelve days. This vessel is the finest of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company's fleet, and the fact that she is under the command of Captain James Carroll will render the voyage especially ^esirable. "The Queen," already one of the most staunch, comfortable, and besi ppointed vessels in the Pacific Coabt service, has been put in the best possible con- dition for Alaska tourist travel. New and commodious staterooms have been placed upon the uppjr or hurricane deck, and furnished in tiie most comfortable and elegant style. These rooms, v/nich are intended for two passengers, each having only two berths, have been reserved for the members of oiir party exclusively, together with other deck rooms of the best class. Cdptai i Carroll's intimate kiiowledge of all the attractive points upon the Alaska route, and the fact that the voyage is to be devoted to the service of the passengers wholly, and not to freighting purposes (freight being carried upon other steamers), will serve to make the trip enjoyable in the fullest degree. Puget Sound. The first part of our voyage lies through the waters of picturesque Puget Sound. This body of water has an area of 2,000 square miles, with an irregular shore line of 1,594 miles. The shores are generally densely wooded with gigantic fir trees, and at several points are immense saw mills. There arc many islands, and for the most part they are or have beun covered with timber like the mainland. There is deep water everywhere, and at hundreds of places large ships could be loaded directly from the shore if necessary. The lumber and coal trade of the sound is very great, and con- stantly increasmg. Besides the mines in th' Puyallup Valley near Tacoma, there are SO ier"The rs. This fact that ispecially and best sible con- en placed d elegant only two jther with of all the devoted ght being !3t degree. et Sound. 3ie line of es, and at most part Icep water f from the :, and con- , there are others near Seattle, from which i,ooo tons of coal a day are shipped, and others on Vancouver Island. Iron ore has also been found contiguous to the coal fields near Seattle, and also near Port 'I'ownsend. The shores of the sound are in many places abrupt, and ^Igh mountains seem to environ this beautiful body of water. From Commen',wment Bay, at its southern extremity, and also on the broader part of the sound, Mount Tacoma beco:nes a prominent landmark; while farther north Mount Baker replaces it with its handsome cone of snow. The latter is situated in«the northern part of Whatcom county, near the line of British Columbia, about thirty mi!c5 from the sound, and has an elevation of 10,800 feet. Northward of Puget Sound, and extending to the Gulf of Georgia, lies Washington Sound. In this region are San Juan, Orcas, F'idalgo, Lopez, and many lesser islands belonging to the same group. At the head of the broad peninsula west of the sound, extending towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and forming the northwestern extremity of the State of Wasl.ington, is the noble Olympic range of mountains, from 6,000 to upwards of 8,000 feet in height. These latter elevations constitute a grand feature in the outlook from the deck of the steamer while crossing the sound. Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend are the chief cities on Puget Sound, but in our northward voyage we shall pay them only brief visiti. Time will be afforded for a fuller inspection on our return. Victoria, B. C. A.0 part of a day will be spent at Victovia, there will be time to see something of that pretty city. Br'tlsh Columbia, which extends from the Kocl?> Mountains to the Pacific, and from 5> mm mma^Sm — luma iii' the northern boundar>' lines of Washington, Idaho, and Northwestern Montana to Alaska and the Arctic Ocean, comprises about 350,000 square miles. Victoria, the capital of the Province and a beautiful city of about 15,000 inhabitants, is charmingly situated at the southeastern extremity of Vancouver Island. Fort Victoria, a subsidiary depot of the Hudson Bay Company, — the chief depot then being at Fort Vancouvei, on the Columbia River, — was established in 1843; and in 1848, at the time of the "Cayuse War," it became an important position for sending supj^lies to the interior. In 1858, about the time of the gold-mining excitement on the Fraser and the Skagit, New Georgia and New Caledonia, as the main coast and interior had previously been designated, became by royal edict British Columbia, and in 1866 the colony of Vancouver Island was united therewith. Fort Victoria, mean- while, became the city of Victoria. Vancouver Island is 200 miles long, and contains lakes and mountain ranges, some of the peaks being 8,000 and 9,000 feet high. Vic- toria presents many interesting features to the stranger. The business avenues have a substantial appearance, and all the streets are wide and well kept. Most of the chwell- ings have in front of them or surrounding them pretty gardens in which flowers abound through a large part of the year. The government buildings, fivo in number, and built in Swiss style, comprising the l*arliament House, government printing-office, land and works departments, government offices, messenger's residence, and the Provincial Museum, occupy a prettily adorned square just across James's Bay. In front of these is a granite shaft erected to the memory of Sir James Douglas, the first governor of the colony. There is -. populou-^ "Chinatown," and, mingled with the Mongolians on the streets, are many Songhi&h Indiana. There is a reservation of this tribe near the city. 52 utana to abitants, id. Fort ipot then ;• and in r sending ;nt on the coast and imbia, and •ria, mean- d contains igh. Vic- ucs have a the ih\ell- s abound , and built , land and Provincial t of these verncr of golians on e near the Along the East Coast of Vancouver Island. Vancouver Island stretches along the coast of British Columbia 200 miles, in a northwesterly direction, and our course lies through the inward channels and straits. From Victoria we turn north'vard th'-ough Haro Strait, which, with the San Juan Islands, lying easterly, has become historic through the contention of the United States and Great Britain over the intf rnational boundary, trouble having arisen in consequence of the somewhat ambiguous phraseology of an old treaty. The question was whether this channel or Rosario Strait, one of the lesser channels lying fartlier eastward toward the mainland, was meant as the boundary line. The emperor of Germajiy, then king of Prussia, to whom the interpretation of the treaty was left, in 1872 decided in favor of Haro Strait, and thus threw into the United States the valuable group of islands referred to. The view from the steamer's deck i superb. Mount liaker, the noble Olympian range south of Victoria aud across ^ tan de Fuca Strait, hundreds of other peaks on the islands and the mainland, and even distant Mount Taconm, wiien the atmosphere is exceedingly clear, may be seen ; while the p luresque shores of the [archipelago, through which we are passing, form evcr-changin ' visions )f beauty. [Emerging from Haro Strait, probably through Active Pass, we are for a time in the broader waters of the Strai of Georgia, and skirting Galiano, Valdes, and Gaurioia [islands, which lie along the toast of Vancouver. The passengers are quite likely to awaken the succeeding morning near Nanaimo, |an old Hudson Bay Company's post seventy miles north of Victoria. Near t1 it town ire extensive coal mines, where our steamer will probably stop for fuel on ' i south- [vvard trip, coal for the present voyage having been obtained previous to t u embarka- tion.. The mines here are of immense value, as the coal is of unsurpassed quality for Ueaming purposes. Their discovery by the late Richard Dunsmuir was wholly acci- 53 fl ■ 1- dental. He chanced to be riding a horse down through the forest, when the animal stumbled over an outcropping of lignite. A partner who originally put in ;^i,ooo to develop the property, later on sold his interest to Mr. Dunsmuir for ^^ 150,000, and another who invested the same amount withdrew at the end of ten years with _^ 50,000. A railway runs from Victoria to Nanaimo and the Wellington mines, md the telegraph reaches thus far; but beyond, the traveler is shut out from the happenings in the world at large. For the once we may give ourselves over to the full enjoyment of scenery unrivaled in any part of the globe. We continue through the Strait of Georgia, which narrows when Lasqueti and Texada Islands are reached. The view of the mountains, especially of those on the mainland, is superb. Long lines of snow peaks, tossed into fantastic forms and gleaming in the declining sun like silver and gold, fill the eastern horizon. There is a series of wonderful fio;ds, pene- trating the coast in some instances for 100 miles or more north of IJurrard Inlet, known successively as Howe Sound, Jervis Inlet, Desolation Sound, Toba, Buve, Loughborough, Knight, Kingcombe, Seymour, and Belize Inlets. These are invariably lined with high mountains, the waters at their foot being of untold depths. About Jervis and IJute Inlets are peaks between 8,000 and 9,000 feet high. A group of needle-like spires near the latter, 8,100 feet hign, is especially notable. The whole region is uninhabited except by a few scattered Indian tribes ; and the same may almost be said of the northwestern two-thirds of Vancouver Island, where, in fact, no signs of human life are discernible except around a few saw mills, salmon canneries, and two or three native villages. We enter Discovery Passage, the first of the river-like channels through which we are to journey for many hundreds of miles, passing on the right Cape Mudgc, and from an expansion of the p. sage caused Uy an indentation of the Vancouver shore, known as Menzies Bay, pass into the famous 54 J Seymour Narrows. Through this contracted channel the tides rush with great velocity, sometime running nine knots an hour. The steamer is so timed as to go through the Narrows with a favoring tide. Discovery Passage, and also Johnstone Strait, which is beyond, lying between Vancouver Island and the mainland, are lined with mountains of from 3,000 to 6,000 feet elevation. Farther inland on botli sides are still higher peaks, of which occasional glimpses are had. In the interior jf the island are mountains over 8,000 feet high. Down many of the heights cascades are seen coursing, especially after a recent rain. Johnstone Strait is fifty-five miles in length, and is succeeded by a lesser stretch of water called IJroughton Strait, which lies between Vancouver ana Malcolm Islands. On Cor.aorant Island, opposite the Nimkeesh River, is the Indian village of Alert Bay and also a cannery. At the south extremity of the town is a native burial-ground, where the graves are quaintly decorated with flags and rude carvings. These Indians are mainly of the Nimkeesh tribe, although there are also some of the Kwawkewlths, who come chiefly from Fort Rupert above, towards the head of Vancouver Island. The latter are among the most degraded people living on the coast, and, notwithstanding the efforts of the missionaries, remain to a large extent in paganism. The conical peak seen on Vancouver Island, and long visible, is Mount Iloldsworth (3,040 feet). When the open water is reached north of Uroughto'i Strait, Fort Rupert, an old Hud- son Bay Company's post, and now an Indian agency, is seen on the left. Above Vancouver Island. \Vc new leave Vancouver Inland, its northern and northwesternmost capes, Com- merell and Scott, with the string of Scott Islands, being seen at the left after Queen Charlotte's Sound is entered. This body of water, less than forty miles in extent, and 55 1 «i r.^ 4 .jiiav^iiT. s::r^:i:r' — I ??— "^^^BBB I ! the still smaller Milbank Sound, farther north, are almost the only places where, even under the proper conditions for such things, the steamer is exposed to the roll of the sea, unless it becomes necessary to follow an outside course near Sitka instead of threading some of the narrow and intricate passages. We look westward over the broad expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The vessel soon passes from Queen Charlotte's Sound under the lee of Calvert Island, and enters the landlocked channel of Fitzhugh Sound. Here again we have superb scenery on either side, the mountains of Calvert It:latfd culminating in an exceedingly sharp peak known as Mount Buxton (3,430 feet), the retrospective view of which is fine. The soundings for the most part indicate very deep water. As we approach the northern extremity of the sound, where Burke Channel opens out on the right, opposite Hunter Island, the scenery increases in grandeur, the lesser and nearer hills being clothed to their summits with coniferous trees, while the more distant elevations are covered with snow. From Fishe: Channel the vessel turns sharply to the left and enters the narrow Lama Passage, which, far- ther on, itself makes an abrupt turn northward. On the shores of Campbell Island, at McLaughlin's Bay, is the Indian town of Bella-Bella, and near it are some curiously adorned graves of the natives. To this point the Indians come from Bella-Kula, eighty miles up Burke Channel, in the mountains, to trade. The northern entrance to Lama Passage, through which we emerge into the broad Seaforth Channel, with its multi- tude of picturesque islands, is extremely narrow. More fine scenery awaits us at this point, the grouping of mountains being grand in the extreme. Another turn in our remarkably devious course, and we are steaming northward through Milbank Sound, through whose broad entrance we again lookout to the open sea. Islands and mountains are innumerable, and there is a constant panorama of lovely scenery. A prominent object seen on the approach to Milbank Sound is Hel- 56 thward le open ama of is Hcl- met Peak, on Lake Island ; and another, farther north, is Stripe Mountain, on the north side of Dowager Island. The latter is 2,020 feet Kigh, and is marked by a grert land- slip down its southwest face. Leaving Jorkins's Point, ^he southern extremity of the great Princess Royal Island, to our left, we continue our course almost directly north- ward through the long and narrow Finlayson Channel, some twenty-four miles long, with an average width of two miles. The bold shores of this picturesque water-way are densely wooded to a height of 1,500 feet or more, precipitous peaks rising in places to the height of nearly 3,000 feet, with still higher mountains showing behind with stripes and patches of snow. Waterfalls of great height here add a new element of beauty to the scenery. A contraction of the channel known for twenty miles as Gra- ham Reach, and for the next ten miles as Fraser Reach, brings us to the northern end of Princess Royal Island, where we turn westward through McKay Reach into Wright Sound. Grenville Channel, which we enter from Wright Sound, and v^hich lies betwcn Pitt Island and the mainland, is for fully fifty miles as straight as au arrow, and here are fresh scenes of wonderful beauty and sublimity — mountains several thousand feet in height, which no man has ever visited and as yet unnamed; cascades which seem to tumble from the sky itself, and densely wooded shores ».nere solitude reigns supreme. Some of the distant hills seen through the openings are seamed by glaciers and avalanches. From an expansion o£ this channel we pass through a narrow strait known as Arthur Passage, which has Kennedy Island on the right, and the large Porcher Island on the left. There are many fine mountain peaks on both islands, one on Ken- nedy Island gaining an elevation of 2,765 feet. Just above Kennedy Island the Skeena River enters from the east. We soon reach the broad waters of Chatham Sound through Malacca Passage, and for some distance course along the shores of the Tsimp- 57 I!i scan Peninsula, passing both Old Metlakahtla, — the scene of Mr. William Duncan's early labors, successes, and struggles, — and Port Simpson, an important post of the Hudson Bay Company, established as early as 1831, on the right. The Tsimpsean Peninsula is thirty-two miles in length, and, but for a narrow neck of land between the Skeena and Work Channel, would be an island. It takes its name from the tribe of Indians inhabiting it, and who were until recent years the mortal enemies of the Hai- das, who live on the Queen Charlotte Islands and in the Prince of Wales Archipelago, the former being on the British, and the latter on the American, side of the line. It was mainly from this tribe that Mr. Duncan gained his converts. In 1887 Mr. Dun- ean and about 600 of the Indians removed from Old Metlakahtla to Annette Island in the Alexandrian Archipelago, on the American side, to save themselves from further annoyance at the hands of the Church of England: while Bishop Ridley con- tinued in possession of the old settlement with about 120 natives, who chose to remain rather- than leave their old home. The church at Old Metlakahtla, now a cathedral, built by the Indians themselves, like everything else about the village, under Mr. Duncan's direction, is, by the by, the largest place of worship in all British Columbia. Continuing northward through Chatham Sound, there are many fine views of dis- tant mountain ranges, one of which, lying back of Port Simpson, culminates in the massive Mount McNeill (4,300 feet). Alaska. ■ Leaving the picturesque Portland Inlet on our right, into which enter the Nass River, Observatory Inlet, and the far-reaching Portland Canal, we soon cross, in latitude 54 degrees, 40 minutes, the boundary line between British Columbia and Alaska. Before proceeding farther on our journey, let us examine into the extent and physi- cal condition of our northernmost and westernmost possession — the land we have 58 crossed a continent to see — for all we have yet viewed is only preparatory to Alaska. That the area of Alaska is vast, is a well-known fact ; but few persons who are not versed in statistics realize that it is nearly one-sixth as large as the entire United States, and more than one-seventh as large as the whole of Europe. It exceeds in domain three of the largest States of our Union — Texas, California, and Montana — or all that portion of the United States lying east of the Mississippi River and north of Georgia and the Carolinas. England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, together with Prussia, Spain, and Italy, might all be placed within its borders, with an area to spare that would measure within twenty-eight square miles of the territory of Switzerland ; for Alaska covers no less than 580,107 square miles. The islands upon its coast have an area of 31,205 square miles, or nearly as much as the State of Maine. The Alexan- der Archipelago, lying north of the British Columbian boundary line and along South- ern Alaska, of itself contains several thousand islands. The Aleutian Chain has an area of 6,391 square miles. The general coast line of the Territory is 4,750 miles in extent, or within less than a thousand miles of all the rest of our sea line on the Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Gulf of Mexico put together. Inclusive of islands, bays, rivers, etc., to the head of tide water, Alaska figures up 26,376 miles of shore line. The island of Attn, the farthest of the Aleutian Chain, is as far wcRt of San Francisco as Bangor is east of it, and in fact 2,090 miles west of Sitka. It is as far from the northern to the southern point of Alaska as from Maine to Florida, and as far from its eastern boundary to its westernmost as from Washington to California. It con- tains in Mount St. Elias the highest mountain on the North American Continent (19,500 feet), unless the unmeasured Mount Wrangel, a volcano in eastern central Alaska, at the forks of Copper River, in the Chugatch Alps, is found to be higher, as lately claimed. Mount St. Elias belongs to the third highest range in the world. Its 59 I I I I k r great river, the Yukon, computed to be not less than 3,000 miles long, is navigable for a distance of 2,000 miles, and is from one to five miles in width for 1,000 miles, while its five mouths and the intervening deltas have a breadth of seventy miles. The glaciers surrounding Mount St. Elias are estimated to be 20,000 square miles in extent. One of the most popular errors extant about Alaska has reference to its climate. The winters of northern and interior Alaska are undoubtedly very severe ; but the coast south of the Aleutian Islands — the whole of Southern Alaska, in fact — being under the influence of the Kurisiwo, or Black Cyirent of Japan, possesses in reality a mild climate. A record of eight degrees below zero is the lowest that has been regis- tered at Sitka in fifty years, and only four times during that entire period did the mercury descend below the zero point. Fort Wrangel, although farther south than Sitka, is warmer in summer and colder in winter, because it is farther removed from the great equalizer — the ocean current. The Queen Charlotte Islands, on the other hand, have a very mild climate. The native population of Alaska, with the exception of a single tribe, — the Tinnehs, found in the interior, — estimated by the census reports of 1880 at something over 31,000 altogether, is not of Indian origin. Whether Mongolian, Aztec, or both, remains to be proven. Persons who have devoted attention to the subject have found much in the language, customs, and arts of the Haidas, the most remarkable of these tribes, to support the Aztec theory, while there is also much to suggest Japanese or Chinese origin. According to the census reports, there are five distinct tribes, viz.: the Innuit, or Esquimaux; the Aleuts, inhabiting the Aleutian Islands; the Tinnehs; the Thlinkets, of Southern Alaska ; and the Haidas. Those mostly seen by the tourists | are Thlinkets, but at Wrangel there are likely to be some Haidas. 60 ;ablc for ss, while s. The miles in climate. ; but the t — being , reality a een regis- i did the outh than )ved from the other e Tinnehs, thing over or both, jject have atkable of t Japanese tribes, viz.: e Tinnehs; the tourists i The United States paid Russia the sum of $7,200,000 for the country in 1868. The seal fisheries, the monopoly of which has recently been extended by the government for the second time, has returned a good rate of interest on this expenditure. The fisheries are valued at $3,000,000 a year, and the gold production is large and of grow- ing importance. So far from being a barren, bleak, untenantable country, as the opponents of the purchase scheme so strongly contended, Alaska is likely to become one of the richest parts of our national domain. Along the Alaskan Coast. In entering Alaska from British Columbian waters, the voyager crosses Dixon Entrance, as the channel north of Dundas Islands, and between Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte Islands, is called. One of the first points of land seen jutting into American waters is Cape Fox, so named by Vancouver. Near here, at Fort Tongas, the United States formerly maintained a military post, and later a custom house, but both have been given up. The situation of Fort Tongas renders rains very frequent, and the excessive rainfall of 118 inches is said to have been recorded in a single year. From Dixon Entrance we course northward through Clarence Strait, which is over 100 miles long and nowhere less than four miles in width. We are now within that remarkable geographical area known as the Alexander Archipelago, a bewildering collection of mountain-studded islands, rocks, straits, inlets, and passages, as yet ])ut partially explored. Throughout the whole of Clarence Strait we have the great Prince of Wales Island on the west. At Port Chester, on Annette Island, which is one of the Gravina group, Mr. Duncan has founded the new Metlakahtla, and is rapidly build- ing up a substantial town, with a church, schools, and self-supporting industrial estab- lishments. North of the Gravina group lies Revilla Gigedo Island, with its varied 61 I rail '*^^ '': mh j • li v] \h i 1 and picturesque shores; while upon the left Casaan Bay is an indentation of Prince of Wales Island. The several islands are mountainous, and the views at all points are exceedingly fine. Fort Wrangel. After passing Etoline, Zarembo, and some lesser islands, and emerging from Clarence Strait, we reach Fort Wrangel, an old Russian settlement that stands at the head of Wrangel Island, and at the mouth of the Stikine River, one of the water- ways that lead to the Cassiar mining region in the interior of British Columbia The place has lost its old importance, and is given over chiefly to the Stikine tribe, a branch of the Thlinket race, but is interesting to the stranger as possessing the best display of totem poles he is likely to see. The totem pole is a sort of ancestral emblem formerly held in high esteem, but fast disappearing. The natives are divided into families, or clans, of which the Raven, the Wolf, the Whale, and the Eagle are the chief representatives, and, as tradition relates, the progenitors. Thus the represen- tation of these animals or birds, with their commingling in case of intermarriages, becomes a sort of family crest. United with the rude carvings of heads, various strik- ing events in the career of the family are sometimes depicted. The poles are from twenty to sixty feet in height, and from two to five feet in diameter, the carving being in front, while the rear portion is hollowed out to make them light enough to erect. These carved emblems are placed in front of the house ; and in some of the totem poles seen among the Haidas, where the oldest and best-executed specimens are found, a doorway was cut through the trunk of the totem for ingress and egress. It was also customary to ornament the top with a figure wearing a Tyhee hat, in case the house- holder was a chief, and upon this would be cut a series of rings, corresponding with the number of " pot-latches " (a feast with gifts) with which the inmate had honored 62 rince of ints are ig from s at the e water- la The a branch t display . emblem ided into e are the represen- tiarriages, ious strik- are from ing being I to erect, the totem are found, t was also the house- iding with d honored his f ' '• nds. The totem poles seen at Wrangel are interesting specimens, though not of the highest order of totem carving. The natives generally carve their household implements, and even their paddles and wooden-mounted fish-hooks, into hideous shapes. This is true especially of the Haidas, who are also expert workers in silver. Sliver bracelets and bangles, island, on thclnecteJ left, is h& boundariies. Taku Inlet and its Glacicrt. Meanwhile we pass Holkham Bay, where, in 1876, the first placer mining in Aiaak was bi;gun, and Taku Inlet, a great f.ord entering from the east, where there ar glaciers running down to the water's edge, evidences of which are seen in floatin masstfa of icu — miniature icebcrg-s. Captain Carroll is accustomed to enter i'ak 64 upon il regionf this ml iiarboJ linall 't renj g Wrangel into Prinre deur await )site shore, one ci the ),ric place a ■s its frozen le late Car- , beyond, wc ch its lower .)untain-side. among thej ider varying sunset, pre- •n's Passapc,' sland, on thc| ng in Aiaslt' ere there av ;n in floatind o enter ia^' Inlet, and to obtain a supply of ice for the ship at first hands. The glacier at the head of the inlet is raagai.'cent, extending across between two hills with a perpen- dicular wall of ice upwards of ico feet high. The ice appears singularly pure and free from earth and stones, both the masses oi ice which arc floating about, and the gresrt, crystal mass that forces its way into the sea, sparkle in the sunlight as if encrusted with myriads of jjems. The spectacle here presented is hardly inferior to that of the Muir Glaci.";r fanner north. Juneau and the Gold Mines on Douglas Island. Leaving Taku Inlet to the right, we ascend Gastineaux Channel, a river-like body of water that separates the mainland from Douglas Island, and soon reach the mining town of Juneau, the most populous settlement in ail Alaska, Here, on a narrow strip of land, at the foot of a deep ravine flanked by precipitous mountains, is a cluster of white houses. Half a mile away, ai^d reached by a muddy foot path, is an Auk village. Keyond the village is a native burial-place. A few milei> back of Juneau, up the inarrow and picturesque ravine or gulch, lies the Silver Bow mining basin ; and on the [opposite side of the narrow channel, at ihe foot of the heights, are the buildings con- nected with the fam<»us Trcadwell gold mine. This settlement dates back only to Oct. J, i8e firs a„d »h.ch on Oo'uglar ,:;<^t:"of T'""' """'^ "' ""'e^'ol '^'Z'^T'"- """■ -g their roaring floodtwith „ *=' "'«"'-pour downZmn ?"-'""'<' "' VVe a>e likel/to ,,e. v u I^Jr'"^ "' '"' «- '"om"am.sides. mingl- "- r;i' :Lrr-- - crLtr^r - f-- --■ "ere . per .on, -but i, U n^":""? P" "«">"■• The oreToM "P""""". and the out- •heprofitsare eXs "7"^ '"exhaustible. ."diHl ""I '''''- '"■"■ *^ '<> ^ '«en worked largl "In "'^ '^'" """e itself i o^ 1'°"°'"'''"' ^"'^"^ ">^ "■'••e h, July, .a' . 3 tTX:, V"'- «P"»"ons wer .^gurr"""";""'"'' -f ha, e"large„,e„t8, ' " *'"<='' "">« 'here have bee' e.^? ."■'*' ""'«' « '*' ,°" "'" ''«°"'« '" 'he ....ire Territory""""' '° '' -"h «ve time, the lVZjl:t "" °^' - « uimea states paid As Gas turns to S a remark terrninatii scenery si mountain down the latter on i Glacier w explored i sail in fro sprung up rock] gor is, in fact, lessened, At Pyri depart fo steamers ; these latit darkness. We nov the great Northward Again and up Lynn Canal. As Gastineaux Channel has not been fully surveyed above Juneau, our steamer re- turns to Stephen's Passage before proceeding northward. We soon reach Lynn Canal, a remarkable fiord that extends sixty miles directly north into the mountains, there terminating in two forks, named respecdvely the Cliilkaht and Chilkoot Inlets. The scenery surpasses in grandeur all that has been seen in more southern latitudes. High mountains line the shores, and no less than nineteen great glaciers pour their icy floods down their sides. Two of these, the Eagle Glacier and the Davidson Glacier — the latter on the west near the head of the channel — are especially notable. The Davidson Glacier was so named in honor of Professor George Davidson, the astronomer, who explored its lower slopes in his visits to the Chilkaht country in 1S67 and 1869. As we sail in front, the lower slopes of the glacier are screened by a growth of trees that has sprung up on its terminal moraine. Above the trees it is seen pouring down through a rocky gorge, below which it spreads out like a fan to the breadth of three miles. There is, in fact, a glacier in almost every ravine; and, as the supply of vegetation is greatly lessened, the really Arctic appearance of the latidscape becomes very marked. At Pyramid Harbor, which is near one of the Chilkaht villages from which miners depart for the Yukon country, is the northernmost point reached by the Alaska steamers ; viz., latitude 59 degrees, 10 minutes, and 36 seconds. The summer days in these latitudes are notably long, there being only two or three hours of appreciable darkness. The Qreat Muir Glacier, in Qlacier Bay. We now turn our attention to the crowning glory of this veritable wonderland — the great Muir Glacier, in Glacier Bay. This we reach by retracing our way south- 67 4 ..,!| turn ward through Lynn Canal to the point where its waters mingle with those of Cross Sound or Icy Strait, from whence we turn northwestward into Glacier IJay, an indentation which extends about thirty miles in that direction, with a breadth of from eight to twelve miles in its lower reach, and narro*ving to about three miles at its upper end, where seven enormous glaciers descend to its waters. The peninsula enclosed by Glacier Bay, Cross Sound, and the Pacific Ocean, is from thirty to forty miies wide, and contains numerous lofty mountains, including Mounts Crillon (15,900 (eet), Fairweather (15,500 feet), Lituya (10,000 feet), D'Agelet (9,000 feet), and La Perouse (11,300 feet). These form the southern extremity of the Mount St. Elias Alps. All these noble summits are seen from the steamer's deck while ascending Glacier Hay, together with the picturesque White Mountains, which line the east, between Glacier Bay and Lynn Canal; but Mount St. Elias itself is too far north to be visible. Vancouver found a wall of ice extending across the mouth of the bay in 1794, and it was not until 1S80 that Glacier Bay occupied a place on any printed map. Near the mouth of the bay is a group of low islands named after Commander Bcardslee, of the United States Navy, and composed of loose material, evidently glacial debris. Willoughby Island, near the middle of the bay, is a bare rock, about two miles long and 1,500 feet high, showing glacial furrows and polished surfaces from the bottom to the top. The Muir Glacier enters an inlet of the same name, near the head of the bay, in latitude 58 degrees, 50 minutes north, and longitude 136 degrees, 40 minutes west of Greenwich. It was named for Professor John Muir, the Pacific Coast geologist, who in 1879 was, with Kev. S. Hall Young, of Fort Wrangel, the first to explore the glacier. It was not until 1883 that Captain Carroll began bringing tourists hither. The glacier enters the sea with a gigantic front two or three hundred feet above thp 68 water, an| land huge Hill Mot eautiful ;randeur ice mouni discharge ing report lery, when within the that is he great pinn somersaul elements c rock the h val of ten are mount more elevj produced thick. Tl dences of On either streams, v On the w< uncoverec of Cross Uay, an I of from les at its peninsula ' to forty n (15,900 :et), and St. Elias iscending the east, north to le bay in printed imandcr idenlly , about OS from ear the egrees, Pacific el, the ringing )ve the water, and a mile wide. Imagine a wall of blue ice, splintered into columns, spires, and huge crystal masses, with grottoes, crevices, and recesses, higher than lUmker Hill Monument, and of such far-reaching extent I It is a spectacle that is strangely )eautiful in its variety of form and depth of color, and at the same time awful in its grandeur and suggestion of power. And not alone is the sight awe-inspiring. The ice mountain is almost constantly breaking to pieces with sounds that resemble the discharge of heavy guns or the reverberations of thunder. At times an almost deafen- ing report is heard, or a succession of them, like the belching of a whole park of ariil- ery, when no outward effect is seen. It is the breaking apart of great masses of ice within the glacier. Then some huge berg topples over, with a roar and gigantic plash that is heard and felt for miles, the waters being thrown aloft in clouds of spray. A great pinnacle of ice is seen bobbing about in a wicked fashion, perchance turning a somersault in the flood before it settles down to battle for life with the sun and the dements on its seaward cruise. The waves created by all this terrible commotion even rock the huge steamer, and wash the shores miles away. There is scarcely an inter- val of ten minutes in the day or night without some exhibition of this kind. There are mountains each side of the glacier, the ones upon the right or east shore being more elevated. High up on the bare walls are seen the scoriated and polished surfaces produced by glacial action^ indicating that once the ic€ stream was thoimands of feet thick. The present glacier is retrograding quite rapidly, as may be seen by many evi- dences of its former extent, as well as by the concurrent testimony of earlier visitors. On either side is a moraine half a niile wide, furrowed and slashed by old glacial streams, which have given place to others higher up the defile as the glacier recedes. On the west side the stumps of an ancient forest, supposed to be prc-glacial, have been uncovered. Notwithstanding the contiguity of the ice and the generally frigid sur- 69 "M:l i I; roundings, blue bells and other flowers are found blooming. In the centre of the ice stream, about two miles from its snout, is an island of rock, the summit of sor ^ peak the great glacier mill has not yet ground down. Professor George Frederick Wright, who has a world-wide fame on account of his investigations of ancient glacial action, devoted a month's study to the Muir Glacier in 1886, and made some interesting experiments to determine its rapidity of motion. The main body of the glacier, says Professor Wright, occupies a vast amphitheatre, with diameters ranging from thirty to forty miles. Nine main streams of ice unite to form the grand trunk of the glacier, These branches come from every direction north of the east and west line across the mouth of the glacier; and no less than seventeen sub-branches can be seen coming in to join the main streams from the mountains near the rim of the amphitheatre, making twenty-six in all. The width of the ice where the glacier breaks through between the mountains is 10,664 feet; but the water front, as previously remarked, is only a mile wide. The central part of the mass moves more rapidly than the sides, and formerly extended about a quarter of a mile beyond the corners. It should be said that the front frequently changes its aspect, in consequence of the breaking away of huge masses. Last summer the sides i)rojected beyond the centre section. The depth of the water 300 yards south of the ice front, according to Captain Hunter, is 516 feet near the middle of the channel. In recent years a still greater depth has been noted by Captain Carroll, a short distance in front of the glacier. Professor Wright's measurements showed the front to be 250 feet high at the extremity of the projecting angle. Gleaming masses of crystal, veritable icebergs, wrenched from the descending glacier, float about the bay, driven hither and thither by wind and tide. As from five-eighths to seven-eighths of the bulk of an iceberg ari; supposed to be beneath the surface, some of these bergs must be of huge proportions. 70 The mej rate of rememb< Saussur( of the S^ ice strea different That a st feet wide feet per making a In the ! Clevelanc conclusioi fessor Wr The ste enough, h for a land Leaving Alaska. ' the other chagoff at Kruzoff I The measurements made by Professor Wright and his companions to determine the rate of motion developed some interesting facts. In this connection it should be remembered that the calculations made as to the rapidity of glacial movement by De Saussure, Agassiz, Tyndall, and others have been based upon measurements of the Swiss glaciers, which are small and shallow, when compared with the enormous ice streams of Alaska, Greenland, and the polar seas. Observations made upon different sections of the Muir Glacier led Professor Wright to these conclusions : That a stream of ice, presenting a cross-section of about 5,000,000 square feet (5,000 feet wide by about 1,000 feet deep), is entering the inlet at an average rate of forty feet per day (seventy feet in the centre, and ten feet near the margin of movement), making about 200,000,000 cubic feet per day during the month of August. In the summer of 1890, Professor Reed, of the Case School of Applied Science, Cleveland, O., made an elaborate series of observations, and was led to different conclusions. His opinion is that the glacier flows at a much kss rapid rate than Pro- fessor Wright's figures would indicate. The steamer generally approaches the glacier front to within a safe distance, near enough, however, for a close examination of its formidable wall, and there is also time for a landing and a limited exploration of its surface and surroundings. Sitka. Leaving Glacier Hay with reluctance, we shall steam away for Sitka, the capital of Alaska. There are two routes thither — one through Cross Sound, or Icy Strait, and the other through Peril Strait, or Pogibshi Ch mrcl. Peril Strait lies between Chi- chagoff and IJaranoff Islands. .Sitka is on the western shore of the latter, inside Kruzoff Island. It is very picturesquely situated, with a noble background of 71 ■m' m I fast mountains, while the bay is dotted with scores of beautiful green islands. Across the bay on Kruzoif Island is the extinct volcano, Mount Edgecumbe, 2,800 feet in eleva- tion. Mount Verstovaia rises sentinel over the town, to a height of 3,2 1 2 feet. Mount Edgecumbe (and also Mount Fairweather) received its name from the intrepid naviga- tor, Captain James Cook, who visited these shores in May, 1778, in the course of his third and last voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Sitka was founded in 1804 by Baron Haranoff, the first Russian governor of Russian America, four years after his original settlement at Starri Gavan Bay — a few miles north of the present site — had been destroyed by the natives, in the first year of its existence. There are many reminders of Russian occupation, the chief of which are the old Baranoff Castle — a plain-looking block edifice, which stands on Katalan's Rock, near the water — and Se Greek Church. The castle is the third edifice erected on the same site by the i^ussians, the first having been burned, and the second destroyed by an earthquake. Several other large structures, built during Russian occupancy, remain and serve for barracks, court rooms, etc. The principal street of the town, and almost its only one, extends from the wharf to the Greek Church, and then, bending around the corner of that notable edifice, winds along the beach to the Presbyterian Mission. If the visitor continues his walk in that direction, he will discover a romantic path throu^^h the woods by Indian River. A little square at he left of the main street near the water, — beyond which is the modest residence of the governor of the Territory, — was once a Russian shipyard. Stretching along the shore to the left is the native town or rauc/ierie^ where 800 or 1,000 Sitkans live in the peculiar kind of frame houses com- mon to other parts of Southern Alaska. Nothing in the form of totem poles is seen here, although the Sitkans, once a powerful, insolent, and really dangerous tribe, have many customs common to other Alaskan peoples. A small part of the old stockade which 72 kept the natives without the Russian town after prescribed hours still remains, although most of the barricade was destroyed after the withdrawal of the American troops in 1877. ^" the slopes back of the native rancherie are the burial-grounds of the Russians and the Sitkans, and the remains of an old block house that commanded an angle of the stockade. Katalaii's Rock bears the name of an ancient chief who had his habitation there. The Greek Church, with its green roof and bulging spire, is the most picturesque edifice in the town, and is one of the chief centres of attraction. It contains some quaint pictures on ivory, with settings of silver and other metal. Although few Russiar.s are left in Alaska, the Russian government expends about $50,000 a year in maintaining this church and others at Kodiak and Ounalaska. In the belfrey is a chime of six sweet-toned bells brought from Moscow. The old Russian mill still stands beyond the church; but the tea garden, clubhouse, and racecourse are decayed and practically forgotten. The Presbyterian Mission established in 1877 by Rev. Sheldon Jackson, D. D., and Mrs. A. R. McFarland, and now under the charge of Rev. Alonzo £. Austin, is the largest in Alaska. The Return Trip. Sitka is accounted the end of the northward voyage, although situated many miles south of Glacier Bay and Pyramid Harbor. We have yet nearly 1,000 miles of water passage to accomplish before reaching Victoria, Port Townsend, and the other Puget Sound points. Our track will be in the main over the same magnificent course we have come, with the omission of the more northward portion. There will perhaps be landings at several points, including Juneau and Fort Wrangel, although this is not certain, and the trip will possess fresh interest from the fact that much uf the scenery missed in the night during the north-bound passage will now be visible. Even with 73 Eh; the same grand scenes to gaze upon and nothing else, the experience would be enchant- ing ; for the grand panorama along the Alaskan and British Columbian coast is match> less in its beauty, variety, and true grandeur. The return will occ y five or six days, but the exact times of arrival or departure cannot be predicted ^vith any degree of exactitude in a voyage of such extent. It is expected that the Puget Sound ports will be reached not later than Saturday, June i8, and possibly by Thursday, June i6. Port Townsend. As we paid a visit to Victoria before going to Alaska, we shall on our return make a brief call at that city, and continue on to the American ports on Puget Sound, the first of which is Port Townsend, situated at the head of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the port of ent.y for the whole Puget Sound district. With every possible advantage in the way of situation and climate, and with the prospect of early railroad communica- tion with the rest of the world, this place is making very rapid progress. The Port Townsend Southern Railway extends southward into the Olympic Mountains over a route of great picturesqueness. Seattle. From Port Townsend we proceed to Seattle, the remarkable city that has been built up on the east shores of the sound — twice built up, in fact — nearly the entire business section of the place having been destroyed by fire in June, 1889. The new Seattle is more substantial and handsomer than the old one, and in many ways a grati* fying indication of the pluck, energy, and business enterprise of her citizens. With a population of 43,914, according to the late census, against 4.533 ^^ 1S80, the city is already one of the leading Pacific Coast points, and its many interests are constantly increasing in importance. Nearly $7,000,000 were expended in 1S89 in the erec- 74 ir tion of new buildings ; while in street railways, street grading, and other public improvements, a further sum was added, making an aggregate expenditure of $13,547,979 in a single year. In the city and suburbs, no less than 3,465 buildings were constructed. Some of the schools, churches, and several of the public buildings — notably the County Court House — are imposing edifices. Numerous railway lines enter here, and there are also steamer connections with near and distant points. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company has a line runi.mg to Tacoma, and there are also several lines of steamboats between the two cities. Seattle is charmingly situated betv/een the waters of the sound and Lake Washington, a body of fresh water thirty miles in length. It may be deemed advisable to divide the party for the visits to Seattle and Tacoma. Both cities will be included, one section seeing Seattle first and the other Tacoma. fi Tacoma. At the head of Puget Sound lies another beautiful city — Tacoma — which had scarcely an existence a dozen years ago. In 1880 the number of inhabitants was 1,098. In 1890 it was 35,858. This place derived much of its early importance from being the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which line, however, is now connected with all other important points on the Northwest Pacific Coast. Its manufacturing interests are large and constantly increasing. The city occupies a high bluff, overlooking the sound and the Puyallup Valley, at the head of which stands the giant snow peak of Mount Tacoma {14,444 feet elevation). Many of the new buildings, including the Opera House block, are really magnificent, and there are also a great number of handsome residences. The buildings erected in a single year (1889) cost $5,901,195. 75 ii: New and costly hotels are being erected both in Tacoma and Seattle. During our vbit to Tacoma the party will make its headquarters at The Tacoma. Over the Cascade Division of the Northern Pacific Railroad. We shall leave Tacoma and Seattle on our homeward journey, via the Northern Pacific Railroad, Tuesday, June 21. The first part of our trip will lie over the pictur- esque Cascade Division of this great transcontinental line. The section of Western Washington traversed is mountainous, and the views are greatly diversified. The traveler first ascends the fruitful Puyallup Valley, the great hop-growing region of the Pacific Coast, where, in the hop-picking season, the strange sight is presented of 2,000 or more Indians laboring in the fields, some of the copper-skinned workers coming many hundred miles to gain employment. The great snow dome of Mount Tacoma is seen ahead of us, and in varying aspects as we speed along, now west of this monarch of the hills, and then north. Many magnificent views are had of this massive mountain and of the nearer hills. At South Prairie and beyond, we are in proximity to the great coal fields of the State. The ascent of the Green River discloses some charming canon scenery. This is a clear mountain stream which takes its rise in the Cascade range. At an elevation of 2,809 ^^et we pass thiough the Stampede Tunnel, which has an extent of 9,850 feet and is lighted by electricity. We descend on the east side of the Cascade range into the broad valley of the Yakima River, which is reached withm five miles of the tunnel, and followed for 165 miles. This stream is from 200 to 300 feet wide for much of the way, and forms one of the most important tributaries of the Columbia. About seventy miles east of the Cascade range we pass through the Yakima Caflon, which is about fifteen miles long. Ellensburg, the county seat of Kittitas, is the first town of importance reached after 76 crossing the mountains, although several new places are springing into existence in the vicinity of the coal mines. Ellensburg is one of the growing cities of ihe young State, and, notwithstanding its devastation by fire in 1S89, is a populous aul handsome place. North Yakima, thirty-six miles farther east, is another stirring town. It is situated near the Yakima Indian reservation. Eastern Washington. Crossing the Columbia River near Pasco, we traverse two growing counties of Washington — \Vhitman and Spokane. In the latter, more especially, several impor- tant towns have come into being along the road, including Sprague, Cheney, and Spokane F.ills, the latter being the only one of the three that hi^d any existence before the railway was built. Cheney contains a handsome academy, the gift of IJenjamin P. Cheney, of Boston, in whose honor the town was named. Spokane Falls is a large and flourishing city, which, like Seattle and Ellensburg, has suffered a baptism of fire. The place has been rebuilt in a more substantial way than ever, and has already taken its stand among the most enterprising and important cities of the far West. Of its 20,000 population, three-quarters have been acquired in three years, and 19,000 in five years. Long lines of magnificent business blocks line the principal streets, and there is on every hand evidences of thrift and prosperity. Idaho. Nineteen miles east of Spokane Falls the boundary line between Washington and the newest State of the American confederation — Idaho — is crossed. The Northern Pacific Railway traverses a very narrow strip of the northern part of the last-named State, the distance from the western border to the eastern being about seventy-eight 77 'ii :.'^ •il)«lliU»a«MllMu«. !' % ».'! milas only. Rounding the upper extremity uf Lake Pcnd d'Ortille, the road ascends Clark's Fork, a. turbulent stream which flows down through a succession of wild gorjjes, to the Bitter Root iVJountfJris. At Hope, which is on the sliores of the lake, railway time advances an hour — trom Pacific to Mountain standard. The new State of Idaho has 84,2.19 inhabitants, accordiujj to the recent census. Montana. Near Clark's Fork station we pa's out of Idaho and into the new State of Montana^ which, with its 143,776 square inilc-?, is very nearly as large as the great States of New York, Pennsylvania, and Illinois combined. It ha? more than 1,000,000 acrts in excess of the whole of New England. There arc in Montana nearly 40,000,000 acres of gruzing bnd.t, and 16,000^000 acreii which are suitabl-j for farming, in addition to its vast we^ » in mines. The railroad traveler is likely to declare that the region is i)racti. c.\lly ttcelcjis, and yet the State cotitains poless tian 14,000,000 acres of forests, or more than are comprised in the State of Michigan, i < the total area of Montana, the Indian --•servations lake up 58,oor square miles, or about two-fiftha of the whole. Of the entire number of Indians ip th-. United Siates, upwards of 250,000, Mo/tana is credited v/ith about. 20,000. Monti na was organir.ed as a Tcritory in i{JC4, a year after Idaho; and until )i8So there was no^ a mile of railroad within its borders. It was admitted to statehood in 1889, and \n 1890 was ^icdiied with a population of 131,769. Entering Montana in the extreme northwestern cornci-, v»e reach Heron, a t"^wn of several hun- dred inhabitants, in the midst of a forest. Uefore the railroad came. Heron had no existence. Nov.!; ward of Horse Plains, and extending along the Jocko and Pend d'Orei'.le Rivers for a distance of sixty miles, is a reservation of the Flathead Indians. The Bitter Root Mountain* v.vsre pierced on entering Montana, wliere Clark's 78 Fork makes its way through. One hundred and thirty-five miles east of Ilercm, and fourteen miles west of Missoula, the Coriacan Defile is reached, and the track crosses Marent Gulch by means of a trestle bridge 866 feet long and 226 feet high. A little farther on are other trestle bridges, one of which is 112 feet high. Missoula, the county seat of Missoula county, is beautifully situated at the western gateway of the Rocky Mountains, on the north side of Missoula River, near its junction with the Hitter Root and the Hell Gate. It was formerly an isolated and remote frontier post, but the railroad has made of it a stirring town. 1 he country sur- rounding this place has been the scene of many fierce conflicts between the Klatheads and the lUackfeet Indians. We are now approaching the main range of the Rocky Mountains, although the actual continental divide lies 106 miles east of Missoul.i. The road follows up Hell Gate River, passing through Hell Gate Caflon, which, how- ever, is less of a caflon than a valley, being from two to three miles wide. The scenery is, nevertheless, very bold and picturesque, the pass Ijeing guarded by rock* ribbed mountains. We are in the midst of a placer-mining region ; and the river, ordinarily clear, is in summer stained by the deposits of dirt from the tributary streams, along which many mining-camps are located. Some of the mines are very rich ; and a large amount of the gold production of Montana, amounting to nearly $9,000,000 annually, has come therefrom. Near Gold Creek, a little distance west of Garrison, the "last spike "was driven Sept. 8, 1883, uniting the two ends of the Northern Pacific Railroad. There is some grand mountain scenery in this vicinity, the snow-covered peaks of Mount Powell being prominent south of the railroad. CrosHing the Rocky Mountains at the Mullan Tunnel, which has an elevation of 5,548 feet above the sea, we descend the eastern slopes of the great continental divide, and approach Helena. This city, with a population of about 15,000, is situated at the 79 # eastern base of the Rocky Mountains and on both sidm dt the famous LjwT Gulch, which yielded over $ic/x>o,ooo i»orth of nugg«tii swMl gdkl dust. Helena '^^ tains many handsome buildings, and is the commercial and ll i i i Hd < t mfH^t. of the n<*v« State, as well a» its capital. Continuing eastward from If4l«na, the iCMMl pAWMW through a mining region, and forty-two miles from that city crosMt the MMeoi»fi River. It follows up that stream, amid much wild scenery, to Gallatin City, liiiipe the three rivers forming the Missouri, viz. : the Gallatin, MactiMM, and Jefferson, uflite. We keep on through the Gallatin Valley, and 120 miles from Helena reach Bozemiiin, another flourishing and bustling town. This place was estak^hed in 18C4, fm^ named in honor of John Hozeman, an old frontiersman who lost hie life at the handfi of the Indians in 1867. The city ])resent8 an attractive appearance, and he mountain scenery in the vicinitf is very charming. Aaeendtn^ throttg^ Koek Calk>n, we cross the llelt range of mountains at an elevation '»f 5,'- i feet aUive the sea level. Near the summit the hills »• phftu d l hy a tunnel i.soo t«;rt m kngth. Ltvmgston, the di -erging point fur YiWuwHii Fwrk travelers, aM a iarg«» and growing town, will be reached early '1 hursday morning. Up the Yeliovtrstone VMii|f« From LivingHton a branch of the Northerly Pacific KaHi'— < «rteil\»»uain sections of Colorado, t)esides high mountains and beautiful lakes. The Ko( ky liMMIiiin chain crosses the southwestern portion in an irregular line, leaving li^r far tb< l^^eater expanse on the eastern side. The lowest elevation of any of the narrgiwalUx' >^ ^^^^^^ f^^^ '^'^(l ''""'^ °^ them are from 1.000 to j.oou feet higlur. ThcMMMNiin ranges which hem in these valleys ara from 10,000 to upwards of 1 r.ooo teat in llii|l»,y>lcctric Peak (in the northwest corner of the pat k, not far back of Mammcih Hot prings) having an elevation of 1 1,300 feet. The drainage of the paik area is divi icd among three distinct systems — the Yellowstone Kiver, which has 81 Hi nff i about three-fifths and runs in a sinuous coursf) from the southeast to the northwest corner of the park, mainly through deep canons, and the Madison and Snake Rivers, Mhich have about one-fifth each. In 1871 Dr. F. V. Hayden made his preliminary survey, the report of which prompted Congress to set aside the tract as a public park. Since that time Dr. Ilayden and his assistants have made further surveys of the region, and his twelfth annual report for 1S78 (issued in 1883) gives the fullest infor- mation about the park yet published, tor several years past Mr. Arnold Hague, with a corps of scientific assistants, has been making a series of careful surveys of the region. " The numbers of geysers, hot springs, mud pots, and paint pots," said Mr. Hague in 1887, "exceed 3,500; and if to these be added the fttmarolts and solfataras^ the number of active vents would probably be doubled." The same authority enumerates seventy-five active geysers in the four principal basins. The park is undtr the care of the Secretary of the Interior, and the present super, intendcnt is Captain George S. Anderson, of the United States Cavalry. The regula- tions against the marring or removal of geyser or hot spring deposits are necessarily strict, and are impartially enforced. Mammoth Hot Springs. We shal'. first viiii Mammoth Hot Springs, arriving there early Thursday afternoon, and remaining unt*! the ensuing day. The springs have build up a series of remarkable terraces on the weit side of a little plateau, or basin, 1,000 feet above the Gardiner River, into which their waters flow. On the opposite side of the river rises the long, rugged mass of Mount Kvarts, which has an elevation of 7,600 feet, 1,213 ^'^^^ higher than the hotel. The whole plateau and the steep slopes extending down to the river are mainly composed of carbonate of lime deposits, resulting from springs now extinct. There are no active geyvers at the present time in this basin; but two large cones of extinct a|)rings stand at no great distance from the hotel, and are almost (he first objects to attract attention. These are "Liberty Cap," an isolated shaft forty-five feet in height and twenty feet in diameter at its base, and the ** Oiant's l humb," or "Liberty Cap No. 2," about 100 yards distant and smaller. Hoth show signs of considerable age, and are gradually crumbling away. All around are a number of shallow l)asins; and in other parts of the plateau are cavities and caverns, from which hot springs probably tlowed at some period more or less remote. The beautiful teriaccs, now in prt)ccss of forn>ation jnst below the active springs, are the most interesting object;* to be seen, however. Ihe recent deposits, on which the sprmj;s are at present foinul, occupy al)ont 170 acres, ami the total area covered by the travertine is rb«)ut two scpiare miles. There arc scvcnty- five active springs, varying in temperature from 80 to 165 degrees l-'alinMiheit, In all of which algx have beeti found growing. This vegetation, according to the investigations of Mr. Walter IL Weed, of the United States Geological Survey, has been found to play an important part in the formation of the travertine, and in pro( which the water finds its wa' in gentle riviilats au'l mini.Tturc cascades. The waJs present the most delicate arabestpirs, .nnd fretted ::talactites depenil f' om he edges. Rich cream anil salmon tints predou mate, but these 'kepen into shades of red, brown, green, an^. yellow; while the turfpioise bluj of the waters affords a striking contrast of c« lor. The principal objects of Inter- est are the "Liberty Cap" and "Tiuimb," aheady mcntit.ned; the active springs, *• I*ul|>it Hasins," " Marble liasins " and " Islue Spring**," or the main ten 'Ce; and " Cleopatra's liowl," " Cupid's Cave," ai»d the " < 'range Spring,'* which are ht-her and farther back. •3 ■%'. On the Road to the Geysers. Leaving the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, the party will proceed to the Lower and Upper Oeyser liasins via the Norris Geyser liasin. This journey and the subse- quent trips about the park will be made in comfortable wagons. The early part of the ride lies over a road which ascends the banks of Glen Creek to the Golden Gate and Rustic Falls, near which is Kingman's Pass, 7,300 feet above the sea. On the plateau above, from which a grand view is had of Electric Peak, Quadrant Mountain, Hell's Peak, and Mount Holmes, Swan Lake s situatec. Near lieaver Lake are the famous Obsidian Cliffs, a ridge of volcanic glass from 150 to 250 feet high and 1,000 feet in length. The Norris, or Gibbon Geyser Basin. This ii th:. first of the geyser basins encountered in our round (^f the park, and like- wise tUe highest, its elevation above the sea being 7,527 feet. There are numerous sprinji and a few veritable geysers, the chiel of these being the " Monarch.'* Dr. Peale enumerates ninety-seven springs of various kinds within this basin. The pecu iarities here noticed are the absence of any very great accumulation of deposits, and the newness of some of the important geysers. The "Monarch " is a powciful geyser which is in eruption once in about every twenty-four hour*. It emits a stream to the height of about 100 feet. Thr " Hurricane" is a fierce, roaring s|>r>ng that is expected to develop into a geyser, and the " Growler " is tbt significant name of another vigorous steam and water vent. The " Nw Crater " broke out with great vigor in 1890, but is now less violent. The " Minute Man" is a small geyser near the road. Gibbon Palls. The road from the Norris Basin southward crosses a ridge, and, descending there- from to the Gibbon Meadows, or Elk Park, soon enters the wild cafton of the Gibbon River. A new road has been constructed, forming; a continuation of. the old route along the river bank. This follows the river to a p^int below the picturesque Gibbon P'alls, and is eventually to be extended to the Firehole Uasin (or Lower Geyser Basin), thus avoiding a series of difficult hills. The falls, which are eighty feet in height, are seen to great advantage from the new roadway, which at this point occupies a high perch directly in front of the cataract. The Lower Qeyser Basin. The Fountain Hotel in the Lower Geyser Basin will be reached at a seasonable after- noon hour. This basin is a wide v^illey, with an area of between 30 and 40 square miles, having an elevation of 7, 150 ftet, or only 90 feet less than the Upper Geyser Basin, from six to ten miles distant. Above thi.s, the surroimtling platif.iu rises from 400 to 8co feet, the slopes being heavily timbered. In this section Dr. Ilayden's party found 693 springs, including the F.geria .Springs cf the Midway Basin, among which the "Excel- sior " Geyser and " Prismatic " Lake are counted. The chief points of interest visited by tourists are the " Fountain " Geyser and " M iim'r.'^th Paint Pots," which are situate