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Un des symboie? suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent "^tre film6s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, ii est film6 d partir de i'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. •mmmmmmmmami u r?L ''^^ » ■-'■^*i „.!>*•. •t- .-^--ft-'V:^*^^^^- # • MEANDERINGS AMONG A THOUSAND ISLANDS, OR AN ACCOUNT OF CAPT. VISGER'S DAILY TRIP ON THE RIVER ST. ^ LAWRENCE. AUG 24 K>"'>^ !.»'- WATERTOWN, N. Y. : - - r ism TDIBB AHD BETOBiaEB PBINTma AMD POBUBHINa BOOSb 1881. Yl»iVk 1 W 'fV -.■MSMBH i sm-'. ■«<■ | |lff W? i t-.P ' ::W.'w^"t"" r Fi-2-7 ■ wy iii wi ii rrt^fammtt i MEANDERIN08 AMONG A THOUSAND ISLANDS, . BY THE WANDERER. The St. Lawrence is a very monarch of rivers. The rainfalls of half a continent, gathered into tlie largest reservoirs of fresh water upon the earth's surface, constitute its sources of supply. The course of its stream for more than seven hundred miles, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf, where its vast volume mingles with the Ocean, lies between shores, and over soils and rocks whose character changes with almost every geological formation known. Scattered along its whole length are numerous Islands, whose varied aspects and formations, as well as the constantly changing appearance of its banks, present every variety of natural scenery to the voyager upon its waters. That portion of the River which extends from Lake Ontario down the course of its stream for about fifty miles and which is irregularly filled up with Islands, of which the entire number is probably near two thousand, varying in size from a few feet in di- ameter to many miles in extent, was originally terir.ed by the old French and Canadian voyagers THE LAKE OF A THOUSAND ISLANDS. It has a breadth from Kingston, in Canada, to Cape Vincent, on the American shore, the direct line being across Long or Wolfe Islai;id, which is also about where the waters, in common parlance, begin to be designated as "the River," of about ten miles, from which it gradually though irregularly diminishes to less than one mile, where a ferry now connects the termini of railroads at the Canadian town of Brockville, and the village of Morristown on the New York side. It is this portion, perhaps more particularly the pi i tJI i' H ym- 4 THE ISLAND WANDERER. central and lower parts of it, where the Islands are more closely disposed, which ha« come to be designated as the "Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence," and which hjis long been known and celebrated by i)oets and novelists for its singular and natural beauty. The wild forest, intermingled with partial cultivation upon its Islands and shores ; the many narrow and torturous chan- nels, land-locked bays, with secluded and sheltered nooks among its several clusters, alternated with extensive stretches of open water, many of which themselves might well be called lakes, all clear and pure as the most transparent crystal, i)resent scenes of en- chantment, whose beauties are ever changing and never wearying to the eye of the beholder. THE STEAMER " ISLAND WANDERER." It is a region, which, while multitudes have desired to visit, and in fact of which many have caught partial glimpses in the hasty pas- sage of the old St. Lawrence Steamers down the usually navigated channels, yet comparatively f 3W have been a]ble entirely to explore. The time and expense required to traverse all its multiplied chan- nels, and the meager facilities within reach for doing so, have, until ire more closely rhe "Thousand been known and liir and natural rtial cultivation L torturous chan- nooks among its 8 of open water, lakes, all clear nt scenes of en- never wearying ER." Lesired to visit, and 68 in the hasty pas- usually navigated entirely to explore. ts multiplied chan- cing so, have, until r^ ■ ■IP .H I M l - 1 ^ I THE ISLAND WANDKUKK. . R very recmtly, effectually coni^ealed many of its most delightful views from the observation of the nmltitudes who desired to see them. Within a few years and largely by the e/forts of CAPT. E. W. VISGER, a life long resident of the vicinity, wlio has constantly endeavored to extend the excursions of his Steam Yachts, many of the more interesting and less frequented localities have been brought to 'he delighted vision of thousands who otherwise had never come within their reach. The very best and most satisfactory view that can possibly be obtained, in a short time, of the wonderful beauty here so lavishly displayed is undoubtedly to be had in taking an excursion on one of the trips of this Steam 'acht. THE "ISLAND WANDERER" Has been built and arranged with the express purpose of affording the best fa,!ilities for visiting the scenery among the Islands. While, of course, it is not pretended to pass through every channel and to give a view of every Island, or even to embrace the whole extent of all these several magniticent clusters, the trip does pre- sent in its entire compass of about forty miles, and in a general view, the more prominent features of the most interesting portions, such as is not to be had so satisfactorily in any other way. Nor in fact, is it to be obtained at all in any way, except by the employ- ment, at large expense of PRIVATE YACHTS. Thei^e from their smaller sizes are able to enter the narrower channels, and so to visit the several localities in more particular detail, yet from their smaller elevation above the water fail to present the more extended panoramas, the views of which are obtained from the higher deck of the Wanderer, and very often also they occupy several days in exploring the ground traversed by her in a single trip. If one has leisure and means at command, it would un- doubtedly be pleasant and interesting, after obtaining the general view of which we have spoken, to visit with smaller boats and more particularly to explore the narrower channels and more secluded nooks, occasionally taking a bass or pickerel for picnic dinner from the well known fishing grounds of which we catch the } I MMNat 6 THE IHLAND WANDEKEK. most deli^'htful though more transient glimpses from the deck of the Wanderer. We take it for granted that no one wlio visits these now cele- brated Islands will wish to leave them without participating at least once (and many go made times without failure of interest) in the enjoyment of this ex(!ursion, and as it will be regarded by many persons as desirable to presei-ve some memento of so delight- ful an experience, this little account of th« trip, with some local and historical informaticm in regard to prominent places and objects of interest which it brings to view has been prepared, which in connection with the MAP OF THE ROUTE and the adjacent portions of the river (of which copies are for sale on the boat) will both serve the immediate purpose of giving such infornuition as is often desired, and afterward of preserving their features in the memory of those who have enjoyed the excursion. As the boat stops briefly at the principal summer resorts on her route among the Islands, the visitor may commence his journey at any convenient point. The time table and fares are so arranged as to give every one the entire round, and generally if desired to stop over a few hours at any of the landings between the trips and resume his journey on the return of the boat, all in one day and for a single moderate fare. The trip proper, however, commences at the village of ALEXANDRIA BAY, which seems to be a sort of central headquarters for n.08t of the vaiious movements of the summer life among the Islands, although it is perhaps true that hundreds who have reached only some of the upper parks suppose (we think however erroneously) that they have seen the Thousand Islands, when, in fact, they have never yet set eyes on the loveliness which surrounds this most charming of all their summer resorts. For the sake then of following the entire route in regular order, we will make this our STARTING POINT, and begin our account with the departure of the boat from her dock in front of Cornwall Brother's stone store. 1 do not pro- pose to give any lengthened description of the village and its nil the deck of lese now (iele- irticipating at of interest) in > regarded by of so delight- ith some local it places and een prepared. ies are for sale of giving such reserving their the excursion. : resorts on her his journey at ire so arranged ly if desired to 1 the trips and in one day and ige of 'or n-ost of the ands, although I only some of usly) that they ley have never most charming ■ following the boat from her 1 do not pro- village and its I *— -, '*-'i ■ '0 THE I8LAyi> WANDEllER. T famous hotels. This is to be found in the Hotel Guide Books, and as tills little book is sui)posHd to be in the hands of those who ejther have had or will have oi)])ortunity to see these for them- selves, the labor of description may well be spared. Of the village Itself, it may be of some interest to the curious in the local anti- quarian liistory, to note tJiat its site was selected so far back as 1804 by u surveyor for JAMES LE RAY DE CHAUMONT. This gentleman was the son of a distinguished French nobleman, and left the court of Prance toward the close of the last century and settled in this county. Whether or not it was in anticipa- tion of the political troubles then >)rewing, and which a few years later eventuated in the bloody scenes of the French revolution, we cannot certainly say, but it is a well-knov^'n historical fact that then and soon afterward there was a very considerable French immigration to this and other points contiguous to the St. Law- rence. De Chaumont became a proprietor of extensive tracts of land in Jefferson county, and it was under his auspices that this town and others were first permanently settled. He gave his name and the names of various members of his family to many towns and villages, among them that of his son Alexander to Alexandria. He was long known as a very popular and public - spirited citizen, who not only encouraged settlement and improve- ment upon his own lands, but identified himself with all the interests of the coun'ry of his temporary adoption, but finally returned to his estates in France about 1810. Alexandria Bay was chosen as the most feasible locality along- this part of the river for a PORT OF ENTRY for a considerable section ^f. the adjacent country, being, in fact, the only good harbor easily accessible between Clayton and Mor- ristown, a distance of about thirty-four miles. In the very early settlement it had a considerable trade in timber and staves, of which vast quantities were collected every season in the sheltered waters on either side of the village. I have thought of this as the probable origin of the familiar cognomen by which the little set- tlement has been so long known. The place where the principal produce of their industry was carried to be sold or bartered was really a "bay," although which of two it would be difficult now "A ''-:Sa^CdlAiSMilttlteiu.» '- ' i i. i im i iiiii i wii i Mii.wiBJMiWii i iii."' r»»T- •8 THE ISLAND WANDERER. to decide. So short and easy a title naturally transferred itself to the whole settlement, and so the village acquired the eoubriquet which it seems destined now to retain. The collections of timber in various forms, were annually floated by the merchants who purchased them in large rafts to the Montreal market. Later, and in fact up to about twenty years ago, in the flourishing days of the lake navigation, before the steamboats were superseded by the railroads on either side of Lake Ontario, it was a place for large shipments of produce from the interior. Many thousands of bushels of grain and packages of dairy pro- ducts found their way to distant markets over its wharves. The cutting and gathering of wood for the supply of the Steamboats which navigated the Lake and River was also a very important industry, the activity of which for a long period gave winter em- ployment to a considerable part of the population, and enabled many to pay for their land. But perhaps we are dwelling too long upon upon these local memories of the past, and you will be impatient for the enjoyment of the present in the commencement of our promised excursion. We will choose the afternoon trip as the one more generally pat- ronized from this point, and on tine afternoons, as are most of those in summer on the St. Lawrence, it will be a real luxury to get away from tlie hotels and breathe fi'eely the pure ozonic air that at this hour is usually fanning the surface of the water to a gentle ripple. Going on board a few minutes before the hour of starting, we may have a brief opportunity to gaze upon the PANORAMA OP LIPE AND BEAUTY which spreads around us. It may be supposed that you have not failed to notice the magnificent hotels which are just at hand, the two larger, the "Thousand Island House" and the "Crossmon,"both within a few rods on either side immediately fronting, and the well kept grounds extending to the river, and the "St. Lawrence," somewhat smaller, but still able to accommodate about 100 guests, just opposite us and a block further back. While waiting for the boat to start let us take a preliminary view of WHAT IS GOINO ON ABOUT US. The Dock itself presents a busy scene. Lusty porters sweating tinder the enormous loads of baggage going off in the afternoon ~-:iM ferred itself to Dlie poubriquet ions of timber lerchants who )t. Later, and ishing days of erseded by the place for large )8 of dairy pro- wharves. The he Steamboats ^ery important ive winter em- in, and enabled pon these local the enjoyment ised excursion, 3 generally pat- as are most of I real luxury to 3ure ozonic air f the water to a of starting, we JTY at you have not list at hand, the Jrossmon,"both •onting, and the ' St. Lawrence," bout 100 guests, ; waiting for the S. )orters sweating in the afternoon >|jai ' ui'jyy t l,, i g -' THE ISLAND WANDKREU. 9 boats for the railroads at Cape Vincent and Clayton, and parties of Ijidies and gentlemen hurrying to the same destination. Skiffs are gaily flitiu.g in various directions over the river in front, some tilled with parties of pleasure rowing about for their own amuse- ment ; some intent on preparations for fisliing ; some perhaps bringing passengers from the Islands in the v "cinity, for departure b}- the bv^ats, or perhaps to join the Wanderer in her favorite ex- cursion. THE MORE DISTANT SURROUNDINGS may Avell also take a moment of our attention. Look right over the stern of our boat across the bay below Crossmon's. On the rocky point beyond is BONNIE CASTLE, the beautiful tnd unique summer residence of Dr. J. G. Holland, whose name you will at once recognize as the accomplished and talented editor of Scribner's Magazine, and one of the most cele- brated of our American literary men — whom not to know some- thing of, especially here at Alexandria Bay, for whicli he has done so much, and where he is so loved and honored, were a display of ignorance not lightly to be confessed. The Doctor thinks this part fag l! 10 THE ISLAND AVANDERER. of the St. Lawrence, if noc tlie most beautiful, yet " the sweetest spot on earth," and no doubt the high excellence of his literary- work is largely due to the inspiration ol the summer breezes which for three or four months in the year it gives liim so richly to enjoy. In front of Bonnie Castle we have AN EX'i ENDED AND MAGNIFICENT VIEW down the cluinnel of the River, which is studded with Islands that seem to lioat like emeralds on a sea of glass. On a few of them are small cottages, but they are too distant to be readily distinguished, and in fact for the owners of most of them we shall ourselves have to refer to the list published in connection with the map. The Sunken Rock Light House about half a mile distant, beyond which lies an Island of some forty acres in its primitive forest con- dition, called Deer Island, and the Canadian Light House about four miles distant on the head of a large Island known here as "Grenadier," you will not fail to see. A little to the left of these across the channel of the river, about a mile distant, but still in good view, is what is known as MANHATTAN ISLAND, on which are the tasteful summer residences of Judge Jas. C. Spencer, of New York city, and J. L. Hasbrouck. It it the largest and central Island of quite a little group which is known as "Manhattan group," some of which are connected by rustic bridges, and together- are a little paradise. This is the first Island on which any one attempted a summer home. SETH GREEN, now widely known as the fish commissioner of the State of New York, built a cottage there, where his family summered and he went a-fishing for two or three seasons, about twenty-five years ago, and it is a very probable supposition that here he acquii-ed, a part at least, of the sltill in fish-ology which has since become so celebrated and useful. Glancing still around to the left we get a glimpse of a small house on elevated ground, which is on DESHLER'S, a beautiful Island of about fifteen acres, the property of W. G. Deshler, Esq., a banker of Columbus, Ohio, one of the early dis- ' the sweetest ii liis literary breezes wliich. I so richly to riEW 1 Islands that \v of them are listinguished, lurselves have le map. The (tant, beyond Lve forest con- House abont aown here as B left of these t, but still in. fudge Jas. C. -J it the largest is known as Ded by rustic he first Island State of New mered and he nty-five years e he acquired, since become the left we get h is on erty of W. G-. the early dis- THE ISLAND WANDERER. 11 coverers of the beanty of the Thousand Islands, who for many years has generally made Alexandria Bay his summer quarters. The little cottage is for the accommodation of the man who takes care of the Island, Mr. Deshler prefering to remain with his family at Crossmon's. Still further to the left, and above Deehler's is HART'S ISLAND, on the highest point of which, the tower and roof of a large and handsome cottage show themselves among the oaks which crovm the dummit. It was erected by the Hon. E. K. Hart, of Albion, N. Y., about 1873, but has usually for a few suramers past been occupied by parties from Ogdensburg. Hart's Island is reputed as the place whore the Iiish poet Moore wrote the celebrated Cana- dian Boat Song, early in the present century. The tradition has this foundation, that the published works of Moore mention it as having been written on the St. Lawrence, as also one other of his poems, and since this establishes the fact that he visited the Islands somewhere, the song is just as likely to have been compos- ed here as anywhere else, which is probably about oil there is of it. Away past the head of Hart's Island and quite across a larger intervening stretch of water on the other side of it, we get a view of several cottages in the forest on WESTMINSTER PARK which occupies five hundred acres of the lower point of Wells Island. You will also notice the long dock built for the use of the Park on this side, and some distance back from the shore, the spire of Bethune Chapel crowning the high wooded knoll where it shows itself among the forest growth. It is a pretty structure, erected by the Park Association for the use of its residents and visitors, where divine worship is observed in the usage of the Presbyterian Church during the visiting season. As opportunity will be given to call at the Park on our return homeward, a nearer and more satisfactory view of the improvements of this magnificent summer resort, which are more on the other side, may be had by any one desiring to visit them. The next in order of the circuit of the pamorama before us, is a v^ry fine summer house erected the present season (1881) for Mrs. LeConte, of Philadelphia. It is on ISLE IMPERIAL, which was formerly not much more than a little cluster of rocks with a few trees on one of them, but having been enlarged by filling between t! 13 THE ISLAND WANDERER. and around them, is so finely located in front of the hotels and but a few hundred yards distant, as to have become one of the most attractive of residences. Next in order is a small cottage on another small Island called "Maud" not much more than the size of a city lot, and the property of Rev. F. B. A. Lewis, of Water- town. Miss Bullock, of Adams, owns the cottage perched on the cliff almost dirrectly beyond, which is on a high bluff of Wells Islands well named Point Lookout, as it looks out on the most magnificent prospect in every direction^ On the same Island not far above, are to be seen between the smaller Islands, some of the buildings of a large dairy farm of five hundred acres at which our cottage summer residents find it convenient to be supplied with milk during their stay. Nearly between the dairy buildings and our position ' FLORENCE ISLAND has a small tasty cottage owned by H. S. Chandler, Esq., under- stood to be connected with the "N. Y. IndejDendent." RYE ISLAND immediately above, was cleared of its timber some years since, and some cultivation attempted upon it, but the effort to make it pro- ducti>'e has long since been abandoned, and having partially grown up with young trees, is is a favorite camping ground for parties of young people who desire to remain in the vicinity of the village and hotels. It is. still owned by Messrs. Walton, the original proprietors of all the Islands in the vicinity, who have declined for the present to dispose of it, though we believe they have had fre- quent opportunities of doing so at a large price. FRIENDLY ISLAND, which will be easily distinguished as we pass up on our course, by its name conspicuously painted on the steep abattis of rock which fronts the channel of the river just above, is owned by some gentlemen in New York city, who purchased it some years since, as was understood for purposes of improvement, which for some reason have not been effected. In the interval between Rye and Friendly Islands, peeps out of the foliage where it is snugly nestled among embowering trees, an unpretending cottage that you would hardly observe except by close inspection. It is on »w^ y_ ' - v, mt f ^ j r ^ !' - " wr»**r:i: ■--■ ■■ (<^ *: ' 'f - * vj ^ • •mf els and but I the most cottage on lan the size , of Water- ;hed on the iff of Wells n the most B Island not some of the it which our pplied with aildings and Esq., under- ars since, and ) make it pro- irtially grown for parties of of the village , the original re declined for have had fre- our course, by of rock which wned by some me years since, ivhich for some ands, peeps out ibowering trees, (serve except by THE ISLAND WANDERER. WELCOME ISLAND, 13 a visit to which would charm any one who loves to look out of some quiet nook upon the hurry of the busy world, and be liimself undisturbed by it. It is the property and summer residence of Hon. S. G. Pope, of Ogdensburg, whose taste and resources as a builder are amply shown in the finest structures both of simple cottages and more elaborate residences which grace the Islands of the vicinity. Above Welcome and Friendly Islands and in full view are the white cottages of ^v , * PULLMAN ISLAND, which although by no means pretentious in its architectural erec- tions, yet from its associations is probably an object of quite as general interest as any in the vicinity. It is the property of Geo. M. Pullman, Esq., of Sleeping Car notoriety, whose entertainment of Gen. Grant with a large party of friends in the summer of 1872 has so impressed itself among the notable events of the Islands as not soon to be forgotten. THE VISIT OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE U. S. a notable event at any time, was especially so as it occurred the summer preceeding the presidential election which gave Gen. Grant his second term of office, and was of course a matter of interest throughout the countiy. The political caldron was boiling with all the activity incident to the near election, and multitudes of patriotic citizens, to say nothing of aspiring politicians aU over the country suddenly discovered how exceeding pleasant, convenient and conductive to health it might be to visit the St. Lawrence and go-a-fishing, for what ? may easily be conjectured. But this visit, whether or not it had anything to do with the next presidency, evidently had a great deal to do in directing public attention to the Islands as a delightful and accessible summer resort, and it probably lost none of its natural effect upon the public mind from the circumstance that a large party of members of the newspaper press, on an excursion from Watertown, where they were in atten- dance on aa editoral convention, had been very handsomely en- tertained at an out door epilation on the same Island, early the same season. There had for some years been a plentiful lack of accommodation for any very large number who might desire to spend some time 1 •-aft&aaease--.- 14 TIIK ISLAND WANDERER. at tlie Islands. This year the lack, greater than ever, was demon- strated in a very practical way. As the immediate result, plans for new and larger hotels, long before talked of, found active promo- ters with the necessary amount of capital. The next season these two immense caravanseries were ready for the reception of guests, and since that time Alexandria Bay has been famous. Changes and improvements have since been continually going on, all look- ing particularly to the accommodation of the increasing thous- ands who have here annually sought health and recreation. • But by this time the boat will be starting — we shall soon see more evidences of the improvements of which we speak. As we pass ujj the River the lirst to claim our attention is a very neat cottage, or rather two of them, on a little cliff, which emerged from their hiding behind Friendly Island on the right. They are on NOBBY ISLAND, the property of Henry R. Heath,of New York city, and C. E. Goodwin, of Oneida, N.Y., who built here about 1873, and who with their many friends have made the Island merry with their annual gatherings. CHERRY ISLAND NOBBY ISLAND. ou the left, had a small rough cottage erected upon it, as early as 1860, which has been variously and irregularly occupied, mainly as a convenient shelter for camping parties. This year there have been two other and better cottages built, the first, a large house named "Melrose Lodge, by parties from Chicago, socially connected with the Pullmans. In fact the wife of A. B. Pullman, Esq., with her friend Mrs. G. B. Marsh, are joint owners. The upper and smaller cottage is owned by Rev. Geo. Rockwell, now of Pulton, N. Y.. but best known in this region as for more than twenty years the pastor of the Reformed Church, the first organized in Alexandria Bay. was demon- lit, plans for 3tive promo- jeason these an of guests, L8. Changes on, all look- iasing thotts- ation. ihall soon see )eak. As we LS a very neat lich emerged They are on y of Henry R. ew York city, Goodwin, of Y., who built 1873, and who many friends Le the Island bi their annual ^Y ISLAND It, had a small hich has been venient shelter two other and imed "Melrose icted with the an, Esq., with The upper and aow of Fulton, re than twenty rat organized in TIIK ISLAND WANDEKER. 16 Nearly opposite this we pass quite near Pullman Island. Ji st Jibove Cherry Island you mark the singular Rock known as Oven Island, or as some call it "DEVIL'S OVEN," whifh rises out of the dee], water much in the general form of an old fashioned out door Dutch oven, and to com. plete the resemblance, has a large ope ling at the water level under one side, which is said to have been one of the hiding places cf the tjlebrated Bill John- ston, who figured largely hereabout in the border troubles of 1837-38, the scene of whose most famous exploit we will pass by and by. Above the oven we pass on the left four cottages, two of which we can only name as Cuba, OAvned by W. F. Story, buUt about 18/6, and Wau Winet, by J. G. Hill, of Chicago, built last year. WARNER'S ISLAND is the third, and is situated about in the centre of the channel, so that we pass quite near, and get a good view of the improvemeuts. It 18 the property of H. H. Warner, a wealthy and public spirited citizen of Rochester, N. Y., whose name ought to be pretty weU known, at least in this vicinity seeing that his "Safe Bitters," II Safe Pills," "Safe Tonic," "Safe Kidney Cure" and other "Safe" medicines are not sparingly advertised, not only in the newspapers generally, but especiaUy hereabout on buildings, fences, and other convenient sign boards, almost everywhere except on h is own Island. Whatever we may think of the taste or utility of his advertisements, we canno; deny that Mr. Warner has shown excellent taste in choosing and adorning his summer home, for he has here transformed what was before rather a barren and rocky island to a garden of beauty and attraction. WARNER'S ISLAND. ■•m^ ' T*-* '""* "■ *'F -f < w* ( ry*"' ' "■ f
wan «»n her way from Prtmcott to Toronto, with nineteen
l>afiiiengorH, and had left Brockvillo in the evening, wliich wa8 darit and rainy, and
arrivtMl at McDonahl'H wliarf, on the Boutli Bide of Wells Island, in the town of Clay-
ton, at midnight, for thd iturpoHe of taking on wood.
Threats of violence had In'en intimated, and l>ofore the steamer had Icjft Brock-
Tille, it was hinted to one on lH)ard that there was danger of an i.ttaok, but thia
threat was not reganled. The pasaengem were asleep in the cabin and the crew had
been engaged about two hours in taking on wood, when a company of twenty-two
nu'U, disguised, and painted like savages, and armed with muskets and bayonets,
rushed on Iward, yelling and siiouting, " rememlier the Caroline !" drove tlio pas-
sengers and crew to the shore, allowing but a hasty opiwrtunity for removing a
small ))art of the baggage, and toward morning, having cast the boat into the stream,
to about thirty rods distance, set it on fire. The scene of confusion and alarm which
this midnigitt attack occasioned among the passengers can be better imagined than
described.
Some of them fled to the shore In their night-clothes, and a considerable portion
of the, baggage was lost. After the boat wa« fired in several places, a party includ-
ing Thomas 8t;ott a passenger, (a surgeon who had stayed to dress a wound) got Into
two long Ixiats and started for Abel's Island, four miles from Wells Island, where
they arrived about sunrise. He stated that there were twenty-two persons besides
himself and the wounded man, in the two boatc. The brigands were known to each
other by fictitious names, as Tecumsah, Sir William Wallace, Judge Lynde, Capt.
Crockett, Nelson, Captain Crocker, Bolivar and Admiral Beubo. Several thousand
dollars in one package, and also smaller sums, were taken from the boat and various
articles of clothing. The only house in the vicinity of the wharf was the wood-
man's shanty, where the passengers found refuge until five o'clock in the morning,
when .the Oneida, Capt. Smith, came down on her regular trip, and finding the dis-
tressed situation of the unfortunate persons returned with them to Kingston. It is ,
said to have been the intention of those who took the Peel, to have captured with
her aid the steamer Oreat Britian the next day, and to have cruised with these,
steamers on the lake, and transport troops and supplies for the patriot service.
Tlie leader of this outrage was William, or as he was commonly
called " Bill Jolinson," well known on the border for his bitter
hatred of the English and Canadian governments, and ready for
any measure that might aid the so called "patriot" cause. So
far from denying, it appears that he rather gloried in the exploit.
Of course it at once not only awakened the indignation of Canada, .
but aroused our own government to the necessity of guarding the
frontier and preventing a breach with the Canadian authorities. .
Gov. Marcy, then in the executive chair of New York, himself
visited Jefferson County and took measures to repress any further
hostile demonstration. A large reward was offered by our own, ,
^^^iemntm
t\\v biiminj? of
)ry of JefferHon
Rrititth Htoninnr Hir
o foUowlnKoircuni-
itito, with nineteen
lark and rainy, and
,n the town of Clay-
nor had loft Brock-
ui (.ttiu-k, but thi»
n and the crew luid
any of twenty-two
Akets and bayonets,
i !" drove the poH-
ilty for removing a
)oat into the stream ,
)n and alarn\ wliich
tter imagined tlian
conaiderable portion
les, a party includ-
18 a wound) got into
VellH Island, where
two persons besides
were known to each
udge Lynde, Gapt .
Several thousand
he boat and various
arf wa« the wood-
;k in the morning,
nd finding the dis-
to Kingston. It is ,
ave captured with
cruised with these,
atriot service.
was commonly
r for his bitter
and ready for
ot" cause. So
. in the exploit,
tion of Canada, ,
3f guarding the
ian authorities..
York, himself
•ess any further
3d by our own, ,
Tkm ISLAND WANOKIIER. ~. fl
and a liirgt^r by the Cauiadiiin oxecutiv**, for tho aneNt of Hi«^ out
laws, mid the oflU-ials of both couiifru's uiiiu'd in tlu' «'ll'ort for
thtdr capture, •'sptv^ially of JoIuksou. It haw, )jo\v«n«'r, been hiuted
that tliH American dHtail profj'.'isedly en^iig^id hi thi.s scivict;, did
not lo.s« a great deal of necseMMjiry sU'fp by their watc.lifuhie88.
.lohiiHoti was aided, in his liiding among tiie iMJaiids, ))y Ids
daugliter, it is said in a boy s ilisguisf^. As slie was tlit'ii u vt>ry
attractive young woman, a sj)icH of lomance for a long tirnt'^ attach-
ed to her adventures, and her faint as the "Queen of the Isles"
extended through the whole region. The writer met her many
years since at Clayton, where she was married and tlie mother of
a fanuly, wlio, so far as discrovered, bt)ro no esiM'(!ial marks of
royal l)irtli. She is, we believe, now dead, but some of Johnson's
sons are living in Clayton.
Late in the fall he was arrested by the American authorities,
but escaped, and was re-arrested two or three times, until finally
the border ha uig become quiet, he returned to Clayton and was
no more molest h1. Indeed, so far from the American government
having any continued desire for his punishment, he seemed to
meet with favor, and as probably a good democrat, was appointed
by the administration of President Pierce, keeper of the light at
Rock Island, which shines on the very spot where the Peel was
burned. The explanation is believed to be that he had before
rendered effectual, though perhaps not very reputable service, to
the U. S. in the war of 1812, when employed as a spy, he had suc-
ceeded in plundering the British mails of important despatches
which he brought to the American officers at Sackets Harbor; and
this explanation has the color of plausibility, as it is said he was
appointed by the recommendation of Gen. Scott, who, as an officer
of the American army, was during that war engaged in the mili-
tary operations then in progress upon the frontier, and probably
knew all about Johnson's services.
But to return to the description of our trip. Not far above the
Peel dock we come to some recent improvements upon a cluster of
small Islands, and on the shore of Wells, that have incidently
grown out of the location of tlie Thousand Island Park, which we
are now rapidly approaching. We cannot particularize them all.
On the small Islands at the left are several summer residences of
various sizes and pretensions. The nearest, " Frederick Island,"
is owned by a gentleman of that name, a merchant in Carthage, N.
Y. The second "Occident and Orient," by a N. Y. gentleman
named. .Washburn. The third is an expensive house belonging to
1 f
88 THE ISLAND WANDERER.
E. N. Robinson, a broker, who has been somewhat noted for large
operations in Wall street, where it is said he has both made and
lost sums of money reaching into the millions, very rapidly.
There are some two or three more distant cottages on Islands
whose names and owners are in the list and map we use. Over
back of these Islands is a little hamlet known as
FISHER'S LANDING,
where a very comfortable house called the " Central Hotel " enter-
tains, in a quiet way, a good many summer guests. On the Wells
Island side we pass some clusters of cottages and one hotel, the
"Wellesley House," before reaching the Park proper, for the
names of whose owners we again refer to the lists on the map, at
"Jolly Oaks" and "Waving Branches." As we turn to the
right to make our landing at the Thousand Island Park, we pass
the Rock Island Light House, which guards the navigator against
several surrounding dangenms rocks and indicates the proper entry
from the open water above into the narrower channels we have
been ascending. Some two or three miles distant across the inter-
vening stretch of open water above, and nearly in the centre of a
large level Island, a large building somewhat resembling the
Thousand Island House at Alexandria Bay, looms conspicuously
into view. It i? the
ROUND ISLAND HOTEL
and Round Island, of some eighty acres, is laid out as a park
around it. Could we visit it we should ftnd many exceedingly
pretty cottages lining its shores. It was purchased about twa
years since and is conducted nominally in the interest of the
Baptist denomination. It is about two miles this side of the
village of Clayton, which it hides from our view, and being easy of
access from the railroad at that point is quite a favorite resort for
the denomination .aamed and many others. Capt. Visger has often
been importuned to extend his trip so as to make it one of the stop-
ping places of the " Wanderer," but its situation will not permit
his doing so without; sacrificing more time than can well be spared
from the remainder of the trip.
THOUS/ ND ISLAND PARK.
Here the boat makes a stop of several minutes, and we have time
to land and walk a little about the Park if desired. A small ad^
if :
''^■*tit^iimimfi»tmSSiSS*i
'-•-^— '•■' "m m
^""m,
-',.',
; noted for large
1 both made and
, very rapidly,
iges on Islands
p we use. Over
1 Hotel" enter-
On the Wells
d one hotel, the
proper, for the
on the map, at
we turn to the
I Park, we pass
ivigator against
he proper entry
annels we have
across the inter-
i the centre of a
resembling the
1 conspicuously
out as a park
tiy exceedingly
sed about twa
interest of the
ds side of the
d being easy of
irorite resort for
''isger has often
one of the stop-
will not periiut
. well be spared
d we have time
I. A small ad-
THE I8LAND WANDEBER. -** ifc
mission fee of ten cents is, we believe, charged at the gate. But
to get a satisfactory view of the Park it would have been better to
have come up on the morning trip and wait over, as many do, re-
suming the excursion in the afternoon.
We need say but a few words of this park, which has become
one of the summer institution, of the country, and has already
been visited by thousands, both from Canada and the U. S. It had
its beginning in the winter of 1874-5, although by the invitation
of its projector. Rev. J. P. Dayan, parties of ministers and others,
chiefly members of the Methodist Episcopal Church, had the
autumn before visited various localities of the Islands within a
radius of several miles for the purpose of selecting a site. The
upper end of Wells Island, on the American side, was finally chosen
and arrangements iuiormally commenced for its purchase. With
considerable negotiation, and some hesitation in regard to the
quantity of land needed for the success of the enterprise, the pro-
jectors, who had during the winter effected an organization as the
"Thousand Island Camp Meeting Association," finally purchased
all the land in the neighborhood then open to sale, (about 960
acres) and employed an engineer to lay it out suitably for the pur-
poses they intended it to serve. Reserving a strip all around the
shore, and other grounds for the public uses, a considerable space
was marked off in avenues and lots, which were offered for sale
the following Spring. By this time a dock for steamers, and
various buildings for boarding hall, office, stores and some lodging
ro<5ms to be owned and controlled by the association, were in good
progress. By active effort, and extensive advertising, the project
sprang into success at once. Lots were immediately and largely
taken. Provision was made by the trustees for a series of meet-
ings at which the ablest speakers, on religious and philanthropic
subjects were to be heard. Soon not only the lots on the Park
itself, but aU the desirable shore property near, with the small
Islands in the near vicinity, advanced largely in price and found
eager buyers. Thousands became visitors, hundreds purchasers,
and very many builders, so that there soon arose a considerable
summer village, perhaps averaging a thousand or fifteen hundred
inhabitants for two months in the year, and often increased to
more than double that number on the days of especial interest in
the meetings held. There are now probably more than two hun-
dred buildings on the grounds most of which are private cottages.
Some friction, of course, has occurred in the management, and
some grumbling at the strictness of regulations made, or believed
M
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
1 1.
11
^1
to be necessary for the preservation of good order upon the
grounds, but on the whole the institution has had a large success.
It is, however, understood that this year there is a change in the
management, and that still greater effort is to be made for con-
tinuance of growth. A comfortable and commodious hotel, whose
want has been greatly felt and often expressed by those that were
dissatisfied with the rather primitive accommodations hitherto pro-
vided, and who were willing to pay for better, is now to be erected
and other improvements looking to permanency and comfort.
Hitherto the whole Park has been practically but a sort of mam-
moth out-door hotel, where most of the guests took meals at the
boarding hall, but very generally looked after their own lodgings
in cottages and tents. StiU, rooms were to a limited extent pro-
vided in the upper lofts of some of the buildmgs, and at the same
time, many families lived and had all arrangements for providing
thft table in their own cottage and tent homes.
Our stay at the Park is limited to a few minutes, and after re-
ceiving probably a large addition to the number of her passengers,
the Wanderer moves on her way. Any further information in re-
lation to the Park is, if desired, easily accessible in some of the
publications issued in its interest, notably in a little book entitled
"The Thousand Island Park, its Origin and Progress," which
may probably be found at the Book Stands, and perhaps also on
the boat.
From the Park Dock we move around the upper end of the
Island, and you will not fail to notice the beautiful situation and
•ornamentation of some of the cottages nearest the river bank, along
whose rocky but yet beautiful and level plateau shore, we pass to
our next landing which is the
I ;;
HUB HOUSE.
This is a fair sized hotel only a few rods distant from the Park,
and occupying rather more than the original whole of the Rocky
Hub on one side of which it is built. A few rods back and above
we see Grenell's. It is on a small Island, originally a spur, but
now separated from the larger one above, which is also owned and
to some extent farmed by Mr. Grenell, who has resided here for
many years, giving entertaimnent to a few guests perhaps in the
rather primitive style of a country tavern. One or two cottages
perched on high points of the larger Island may be found on the
list in connection with our map.
^^..I'Ui i M r,. >ijwiwi«Mw aB
' MIW I M
rder upon the
a large success,
a change in the
made for con-
us hotel, whose
those that were
as hitherto pro-
»w to be erected
f and comfort.
; a sort of mam-
ok meals at the
ir own lodgings
ited extent pro-
and at the same
ts for providing
BS, and after re-
her passengers,
formation in re-
in some of the
le book entitled
ogress," which
perhaps also on
ipper end of the
il situation and
iver bank, along
liore, we pass to
from the Park,
lie of the Rocky-
back and above
illy a spur, but
also owned and
resided here for
I perhaps in the
or two cottages
be found on the
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
26
Leaving the Hub House the boat swings around to the left to
pass up the channel between what is marked on our map after the
old clmrtsas " Stuart," but which has been known as " Jeffers"
and now commonly as Grinnell' s Island from the name of the owner.
This constant change of the names of Islands is to be regretted
as leading to great confusion. But it goes rapidly on, especially
with the smaller Islands, which, with every change of ownership,
are ajjt to be baptized with new names to suit the taste of the new
owners. But this is not all, nor the worst. Many of the larger
Islands are given names on the charts published by authority of
the English and American governments, entirely different from
those in common use. This has an illustration in the Islands just
about us. That on the left is named on the English charts ' 'Stuart, ' '
which was copied on the map in common use and also on the Amer-
ican charts. The early deeds named it "Jeffers," by which it
seems once to have been generally known. So of the Island on
our right. It is on the charts, both English and American, as
"Murray," but hereabout is universally called "Hemlock Island."
It is doubtful now if any one living in the vicinity should hear of
either " Stuait" or "Mun-ay" Island he would know what was
meant.
Quite a lively controversey arose a few years since as to the
proper name of "Wells Island." It is marked on the charts
" Wellesley" and on the map by both names. When the Metho-
dist people inaugurated the Park, " Wellesley" had never been
heard of in the vicinity. The publisher of the map, which was
first issued the same season which opened the Park, and which was
based on a copy of the old English charts, in this, as in several in-
stances, inserted both names. With tlte names only as given in the
chart, the map would have been of very little value, for no one here
knew anything about them. But when the Park began to be talked
of, some astute Methodist brother discovered that Wesley was a
contraction of Wellesley, and of course for a Methodist Park that
would be the right name for the Island, and great efforts were made
to bring the longer name into use, much to the tdsgust of the older
inhabitants. They hsd received title to their lands as "being and
situote on Wells Island," and had no notion of {jiving up the title
either to farm or Island, especially for a jaw-breaking name like
that proposed. A good deal of discussion arose in the newspapers
and otherwise as to the proper designation, but in the vicinity and
among the residents at least, the new name is no go. But, say the
Park people, "it is the old name, the charts all have it, and no
si
26
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
chart has the name Wells Island." The facts seem to be these.
So long ago as 1810 or 1812, before the Islands were finally divided
between Canada and the U. S., one William Wells, a resident of
Brockville, was engaged in lumbering on this Island, and as is gen-
erally the case in new countries, it took the name of its first occu-
pant, and came to be known, as it always since has been in the
neighborhood, as " Wells Island," and all the deeds of lands upon
it are located by this name. The original patent of the Islands to
Elisha Camp in 1823, did not mention any of the Islands by name,
but simply conveyed all the Islands belonging to the State of New
York, lying between certain designL-ted points on the River, Upon
a very old map in the possession of Messrs. Cornwall & Walton, of
Alexandi. a Bay, which they received with an early purchase of
lands upon Wells Island, and all the other small Islands lying be-
tween certain defined points, and which is said to have been made
for the Commissioners of the U. S. who run and established the
boundary line, this is designated ' ' Wells Island. ' ' The date of the
map is lost or omitted, but it is believed to be about 1820.*
The history and authority of the name " Wellesley" is believed
to be simply this. About 1817 or 1818 an English officer, Capt.
W. F. W. Owen, R. N., surveyed the River, presumably by the
authority of the British Government, and a chart was made by him
on which were inserted names upon many points which, with a few
exceptions, had not been before known or heard of. This is evi-
dent from the fact that many of them were memorials of the Euro-
pean wars, in which the English had recently been engaged. Some
were adopted from r iaces where important events had transpired,
others from officers who had become distinguished. Now Capt
Owen had of course Rome show of ri^rht in giving such names as he
pleased, so far as the English side of the boundary was concerned,
but it may be questioned how far it was suitable or in the best taste
to apply them upon American territory, without regard to the com-
monly used designation of the inhabitants. But he did so very
extensively, of which this is an example. Wellesley being the fam-
ily name of the Duke of Wellington, the hero of Waterloo, which
by the way is commemorated in the immediate vicinity, the beauti-
ful and significant name of the "Lake of the Island," as applied to
•This map 18 entiaed, " A map ot all the Islands ot the Blver St. Lawrence within the State of Mew
Tork," and is In two large sheets, evidently made with great care, and each sheet Blgned, " Wm. A.
Bird." It la much dilapidated by age and use, having been used through several extended law suits .
It evidently covered origlnaliy all the Islands patented to Camp In this part ot the Blver, which were
those between MorrlBtcwn and the most westerly point o( Grindstone inland.
et^f.:;
jitSK' i iSm'i ' fSSr -mmmiKStiimSi^
miSS i mnmSi i mmiW ' m''
"^,.
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
87
m to be these,
dnally divided
, a resident of
, and as is gen-
its first occu-
8 been in the
of lands upon
the Islands to
inds by name,
! State of New
River, Upon
I & Walton, of
y purchase of
inds lying be-
ive been made
stablished the
rhe date of the
1820.*
y" is believed
officer, Capt.
imably by the
3 made by him
ich, with a few
. This is evi-
ls of the Euro-
gaged. Some
ad transpired,
L Now Capt.
3h names as he
vaa concerned,
1 the best taste
ird to the com-
le did so very
being the fam-
aterloo, which
i ty, the beauti-
' as applied to
bin the State of Mew
eet signed, "Wm. A.
1 extended law suits,
he Blver, which were
the land-bound and secluded sheet which lies, as it were, in the
bosom of this very Island and is about five-sixths surrounded by
its shores, is on the chart changed to "Lake Waterloo." It is to
be regretted that the U. S. officers charged with the American lake
survey, of which the charts of this part have been recently piib-
lished, have in so many instances followed this unauthorized Eng-
lish nomenclature to the exclusion of names locally much better
known. " Wells" is and was for years known and used in the
whole region, while " Wellesley" was never heard of in the vicin-
ity till about the time the Thousand Island Park was inaugurated,
when it was brought into notice by a copy of one of the sheets of
the English charts, which waa borrowed and used by the gentlemen
interested while engaged in canvassing for the beginnings of their
enterprise, and is the same that afterward became the foundation
for the very little map which has been so much used by visitors.
But we are for a while about to lose sight of Wells Island, and it
is a fit time to dismiss this wearisome discussion about the name
into which we have been led by a desire to get the facts fully be-
fore the public, which we believe has not before been done.
As we pass up the channel between Grenell's, or Jeflfers, or
Stuart Island, whichever you choose to call it, and Hemlock or
Murray, (you see names are as plenty as the Islands) away to the
right is the
CLIFF HOUSE
another small Summer Hotel, built on a high bluflf at the foot of
the Island last mentioned. It is kept by Mr. E. Garrettson, form-
erly of the Globe Hotel in Syracuse, and is generally well patron-
ized in the summer by guests from the Central City. Our route
lies up near enough to the Island to catch a good view of some cot-
tages along its shore, for the names of whose owners we must again
refer you to the list before mentioned. Through much of this pas-
sage the village of Clayton is in full view, being about three miles
distant, but we soon loose sight of it as we turn short to the right,
enter a narrow gap between Hemlock and Robbins Islands, and
emerge into Eel Bay, an expanse of water some three miles in di-
ameter, with only a few low Islands, which do not interrupt the
view quite to the wooded shores of another part of Wells Island
again. Our way lies pretty close along the eastern shore of
3'
i
!
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
GRINDSTONE
one of the largest of the Thousand Islands, being about four or five
miles long by two and a half wide, having on i*^ some 200 inhabi-
tants, who reside on farms in a fair state of cultivation and are en-
abled to furnish a considerable amount of 8ui)plies for the consump-
tion of visitors. Passing around its northerly point, which is an
immense naked hill, bordered by a few trees toward Canada, we
speedily enter
MrMV.'t'
CANADIAN WATERS
which ojien to our view a great stretch studded with Islands and
divided into channels in a manner to bewilder any attempt to enr
merate or arrange them. Hardly any of them seem to be more
than a few acres in extent. Though generally rocky, they are
nearly all more or less wooded, even rocks with scarce standing
room for a man often supporting a tree or a bnsh to which he might
cling in case of shipwreck. Some, however, bear evident witness of
the destructive ravages of fire, which has often and sadly marred
their original beauty. It evidently now
REQUIRES SKILL TO GUIDE THE COURSE OP OUR CRAFT.
Many channels open in every direction, but only the skilful pilot
knows in which of them it is safe to venture. Hidden rocks abound.
Some indeed reveal their position near the surface, when on a very
fair day, their light brown clouds the clear green of the deeper
water, but others lie further down, and all the more dangerous,
because, though unseen, they are still within reach of our keel.
But our pilot never hesitates. He only keeps a keen eye on the
land marks, knowing that in the right channels there is generally
more than a hundred feet of water between us and the bottom.
Passing through some five or six miles of such navigation, some-
times almost shut up in the narrow passages, and again crossing
wide stretches that are on every side brpken and bounded by Islands,
turning now to the right, and anon to the left as quickly, we wind
torturously among the changing channels sometimes within a few
feet of the rocky shore, until finally after a seeming exceedingly
narrow escape from wreck upon a jutting point, we cross a not very
wide passage opening eastward to an extensive bay, and make our
landing at the Canadian town of Gananoque of whose steeples we
have for some time caught occasional glimpses^between the Islands.
t four or five
5 200 inliabi-
L. and are en-
he consump-
, which is an
, Canada, we
■ i
Islands and
:«nipt to eni*
1 to be more
ky, they are
irce standing
hich he might
ent witness of
sadly marred
)UR CRAFT.
3 skilful pilot
rocks abound,
rhen on a very
)f the deeper
re dangerous,
L of our keel,
en eye on the
e is generally
id the bottom,
igation, some-
igain crossing
led by Islands, ,
Lckly, we wind
s within a few
ag exceedingly
3ro8s a not very
and make our
ose steeples we
)en the Islands.
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
GANANOQUE
20
i-:*i
is the nearest Canadian town of any size, to the great body of the
Thousand Islands. It is nearly opposite and about five miles in a
direct line from Clayton, and ten or twelve from Alexandria Bay,
though it requires a ferriage of nearly double that distance from
either, on account of the winding passage made necessary by in-
tervening Islands. It is situated at the moiith of a river bearing
the same name, which was the original natural discharge for a
considerable number of small lakes lying some miles to the
Northward. The Rideau Canal, which joins the St. Lawrence at
Kingston with the Ottawa, diverts the water from some of them
for the use of its higher levels, so that the stream is probably not
so large as it would be if it received all that naturally belonged to
it. It is, however, still sufficient for moving a considerable amount
of machinery, which is employed for flouring and saw mills and
also for various purposes of manufacture, chiefly of nails, agri-
cultural implements, funiiture and various hardware supplies.
The dam which gives the fall is situated in the village, above which
the stream is navigable for skiffs, with only one other portage,
fifteen or twenty miles to some of the lakes which are its sources
of supply. As these abound with fish and game they are often
visited by sportsmen from the American side, who report the lakes
to be of great beauty, and the sport, both in hunting and fishing,
excellent.
, Gananoque has a population of about three thousand inhabi-
tants, with five churches of different denominations. There are
several hotels where sportsmen on the river occasionally stop, as
the fishing in front is said to be the best in the St. Lawrence, but
there has been no sustained, effort to direct attention to it, as a
place of summer resort, and the sportsmen who frequent its waters
are mostly in parties from Clayton, Alexandria Bay and other
places on the American side. The Grand Trunk Railroad passes
and has a station about two ahd one-half miles North of the town,
but the principal business access has hitherto been by the Steam-
boats navigating Lake Ontario, which call here on the passage up
or down the river.
LEAVING GANANOQUE
our course is at first over a considerable stretch of open water,
across which the Gananoque channel, so called, is marked by a
light house and beacon, known as "Jack Straw." These serve
1
80
THE ISLAND WANDERER.
both to mark hidden shoals and as a guide for the egress of ^the
navigator across, and out of the apparently land-locked sheet of
water which stretches away on both sides. After passing between
the light and beacon, our boat leaves the usual channel, which we
can see marked by another light off to the right, and plunges into
the depth of
HALSTED'S BAY,
where seemingly there is no way, and which is to all appearances
completely shut in. When after passing dangerously near some
small rocky inlets, we seem within a few rods of landing upon a
low rocky point directly in front, a sudden turn to the right opens
a straight but naiTow estuary along which we obtain a clear view
a mile or more directly ahead. What had before appeared in a
solid mass as a continuous point of the main land, melts into an
Island cluster, among which, as we progress, we catch glimpses of
varied and intricate channels in every di)'ection. From the con-
tracted channel along which we now sail, other passages open and
mingle in a labyrinth seemingly almost interminable. Once al-
most grazing u round rock that lises on our left much in the shape
of a hay- cock and not much larger, we almost instinctively listen
for the shock of the boat striking as she passes. Bi)t our course
is straight en, though in a channel often exceedingly narrow
but almost as direct as a surveyors line, till finally emerging from
a strait between two high rocks, where one could easily toss a peb-
ble to either shore, we enter the more open and usual channel
where a sharp turn to the left shows us a light house about two
miles ahead, a wide stretch of water dotted with Islands all about,
but no visible opening through the forest covered, rock bound
land, which to all appearance completely blocks the way. Wells
Island lies at the right, the Canadian main at the left, on both of
which a few scattered farm houses and fenced fields betoken partial
cultivation. Just before reaching the light house a little cluster
of Islands appear on the right, and just past these the shore of
Wells Island rapidly recedes, and appears to meet the land from
below at an exceeding rocky and precipitous part near the end of
a narrow bay. No definite opening is here visible, in that direcp
tion, but a reference to the map shows a narrow passage, which is
really not more than a man's long leap across. It is the
""!»
5re88 of ^the
ted sheet of
ing between
1, which we
)lunge8 into
appearances
J near some
ding upon a
right opens
a clear view
ppeared in a
aelts into an
. glimpses of
rora the con-
;es open and
e. Once al-
in the shape
itively listen
it our course
agly narrow
merging from
y toss a peb-
mal channel
se about two
ids all about,
rock bound
way. Wells
:t, on both of
token partial
, little cluster
the shore of
;he land from
lar the end of
in that direcr
age, which is
the
THE ISLAND WANDERER. . _,
INLET TO THE LAKE OF THE ISLAND,
%
down which the water nishes with a current sufficient to turn a
■f:**, mill, which
might there be
built with oTifi
end each in
Canada and the
State of New
York, and not
be a very largo
mill either. —
The magnifi-
cent cluster in
front and on
both sides is
considered one
of the finest, if
not the very
finest in the St.
Lawrence. The islands are generally well wooded,and you will think
them gems of the best water. The entire Canada water at this
point is not much more than a mile in breadth, and gradually con-
tracts for about one and a halt' miles, and in that space are about
eighty Islands, some of which are of considerable size, and in partial
cultivation. They seem as if placed here for the express purpose
of damming the stream and disputing the passage of the water,
which however finds its way in many narrow and intricate passages,
generally with a rapid current, to the open water below. From
the broad channel in which we have been sailing, we enter a
narrow pass of troubled waters, between the beetling bluffs of "Ash
Island" aid Lyndoc light house, situate on a small Island of not
more than one acre. Our way is for a short space between these
almost perpendicular rocks crowned with forrest growth on one
side, and Islands of the greenest and freshest foliage on the other.
A little white cotta^, the residence of the light keeper, shows
itself like an apparition and vanishes like mpgic. We catch
glimpses of little spots of beauty which change and are renewed
like the pictures of a kaleidoscope. A mile of such sailing from
the li{,;ht house, and the boat swings again to the right and enters
a narrow strait, whence for a moment she emerges at the end of a
broad sheet, bounded by Islands which are covered by a forest
n THE I8LAND WANDERKK.
growth of the greenest verdure, but only immediately with another
sharp turn in the coutriu-y direction to enter with the Heething cur-
^nt into another and nairower strait, where yo i are almost
Btartled with thti appearance <)f a little Island right under the bow,
past which the water is rushing as from a broken mil^ du m. This
is the vicinity of the
FIDDLER'S ELBOW
probably so (!alled from the sudden and rapid turns necessary to
its navigation, and is probably more celebrated for its marvelous
loveliness than any other jwrtion of the St. Lawrence. Its numer-
ous and intricate channels and hidden recesses are only known to
the most experienced boatmen and fishermen. Capt. Visger we
perceive has given this particular part of his trip the name of the
LOST CHANNEL.
What particular private information the Capt. may possess of its
former navigation is more than we are able to divine. The only
record of its use, which, after long researc^h, we have discovered is
in the account of the celebrated voyage of Capt. Jasper Western,
who must have passed through it in the noted expedition of the
" Scud," from Oswego, for the relief of the log fort that was
hidden among the Islands as far back as the time of the Pathfinder
in the old French war, for the particulars of which, with the ac-
count of its discovery and capture by a party of Indians under the
renowned French Captain, Mons. Sangl' 3r, we refer to the most in-
teresting and romantic histories of the life of Leather-stocking, the
border scout, written by Mr. Fennimore Cooper. It will be re-
membered by those familiar with those most veracious tjhronicles
that after the re-capture, which was successfully effected by the
skill of the Pathfinder, aided by the prompt re-appearance of Capt.
Western in the " Scud," the fort was abandoned and the military
defences destroyed, as no longer of value. It is of course to be in-
ferred that at the same time all knowledge of the proper approaches
was purposely lost,and we surmise it has never since been discovered
till Capt. Visger in his zeal for exploration pf all the hidden recesses
of the Islands for the delectation of his passengers, searched it
out in his steam yacht, the "Wanderer." It is almost certain
that the block-house fort must have been somewhere in this
vicinity, from the very sufficient reason that no other is so admir-
ably adapted to the purpose for which it was built, and no other
" l llMlM
mnamt^mmmmff
with another
Hwthing cur-
i are nhnost
nder the bow,
j^dtu. This
18 necessary to
• its marvelous
e. Its nunier-
only known to
ipt. Visger we
he name of the
y possess of its
ine. The only
^e discovered is
aspei- Western,
pedition of the
; fort that was
r the Pathfinder
jh, with the ac-
idians under the
r to the most in-
ler-stocking, the
It will be re-
x5ious tjhronicles
eflEected by the
earance of Capt.
and the military
! course to be in-
roper approaches
e been discovered
e hidden recesses
gers, searched it
s almost certain
mewhere in this
jther is so admir-
lilt, and no other
TH£ ISLAND WANDKKEK. Iv
has ever been discovered, and here it is certai ,i that neither the
French Ca])tain nor even his Indian allies would ever have found
it but for the rascally treachery of Lieutenant Mulr, an English
officer who accompanied the expe