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Un des symboie? suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent "^tre film6s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, ii est film6 d partir de i'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. •mmmmmmmmami u r?L ''^^ » ■-'■^*i „.!>*•. •t- .-^--ft-'V:^*^^^^- # • MEANDERINGS AMONG A THOUSAND ISLANDS, OR AN ACCOUNT OF CAPT. VISGER'S DAILY TRIP ON THE RIVER ST. ^ LAWRENCE. AUG 24 K>"'>^ !.»'- WATERTOWN, N. Y. : - - r ism TDIBB AHD BETOBiaEB PBINTma AMD POBUBHINa BOOSb 1881. Yl»iVk 1 W 'fV -.■MSMBH i sm-'. ■«<■ | |lff W? i t-.P ' ::W.'w^"t"" r Fi-2-7 ■ wy iii wi ii rrt^fammtt i MEANDERIN08 AMONG A THOUSAND ISLANDS, . BY THE WANDERER. The St. Lawrence is a very monarch of rivers. The rainfalls of half a continent, gathered into tlie largest reservoirs of fresh water upon the earth's surface, constitute its sources of supply. The course of its stream for more than seven hundred miles, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf, where its vast volume mingles with the Ocean, lies between shores, and over soils and rocks whose character changes with almost every geological formation known. Scattered along its whole length are numerous Islands, whose varied aspects and formations, as well as the constantly changing appearance of its banks, present every variety of natural scenery to the voyager upon its waters. That portion of the River which extends from Lake Ontario down the course of its stream for about fifty miles and which is irregularly filled up with Islands, of which the entire number is probably near two thousand, varying in size from a few feet in di- ameter to many miles in extent, was originally terir.ed by the old French and Canadian voyagers THE LAKE OF A THOUSAND ISLANDS. It has a breadth from Kingston, in Canada, to Cape Vincent, on the American shore, the direct line being across Long or Wolfe Islai;id, which is also about where the waters, in common parlance, begin to be designated as "the River," of about ten miles, from which it gradually though irregularly diminishes to less than one mile, where a ferry now connects the termini of railroads at the Canadian town of Brockville, and the village of Morristown on the New York side. It is this portion, perhaps more particularly the pi i tJI i' H ym- 4 THE ISLAND WANDERER. central and lower parts of it, where the Islands are more closely disposed, which ha« come to be designated as the "Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence," and which hjis long been known and celebrated by i)oets and novelists for its singular and natural beauty. The wild forest, intermingled with partial cultivation upon its Islands and shores ; the many narrow and torturous chan- nels, land-locked bays, with secluded and sheltered nooks among its several clusters, alternated with extensive stretches of open water, many of which themselves might well be called lakes, all clear and pure as the most transparent crystal, i)resent scenes of en- chantment, whose beauties are ever changing and never wearying to the eye of the beholder. THE STEAMER " ISLAND WANDERER." It is a region, which, while multitudes have desired to visit, and in fact of which many have caught partial glimpses in the hasty pas- sage of the old St. Lawrence Steamers down the usually navigated channels, yet comparatively f 3W have been a]ble entirely to explore. The time and expense required to traverse all its multiplied chan- nels, and the meager facilities within reach for doing so, have, until ire more closely rhe "Thousand been known and liir and natural rtial cultivation L torturous chan- nooks among its 8 of open water, lakes, all clear nt scenes of en- never wearying ER." Lesired to visit, and 68 in the hasty pas- usually navigated entirely to explore. ts multiplied chan- cing so, have, until r^ ■ ■IP .H I M l - 1 ^ I THE ISLAND WANDKUKK. . R very recmtly, effectually coni^ealed many of its most delightful views from the observation of the nmltitudes who desired to see them. Within a few years and largely by the e/forts of CAPT. E. W. VISGER, a life long resident of the vicinity, wlio has constantly endeavored to extend the excursions of his Steam Yachts, many of the more interesting and less frequented localities have been brought to 'he delighted vision of thousands who otherwise had never come within their reach. The very best and most satisfactory view that can possibly be obtained, in a short time, of the wonderful beauty here so lavishly displayed is undoubtedly to be had in taking an excursion on one of the trips of this Steam 'acht. THE "ISLAND WANDERER" Has been built and arranged with the express purpose of affording the best fa,!ilities for visiting the scenery among the Islands. While, of course, it is not pretended to pass through every channel and to give a view of every Island, or even to embrace the whole extent of all these several magniticent clusters, the trip does pre- sent in its entire compass of about forty miles, and in a general view, the more prominent features of the most interesting portions, such as is not to be had so satisfactorily in any other way. Nor in fact, is it to be obtained at all in any way, except by the employ- ment, at large expense of PRIVATE YACHTS. Thei^e from their smaller sizes are able to enter the narrower channels, and so to visit the several localities in more particular detail, yet from their smaller elevation above the water fail to present the more extended panoramas, the views of which are obtained from the higher deck of the Wanderer, and very often also they occupy several days in exploring the ground traversed by her in a single trip. If one has leisure and means at command, it would un- doubtedly be pleasant and interesting, after obtaining the general view of which we have spoken, to visit with smaller boats and more particularly to explore the narrower channels and more secluded nooks, occasionally taking a bass or pickerel for picnic dinner from the well known fishing grounds of which we catch the } I MMNat 6 THE IHLAND WANDEKEK. most deli^'htful though more transient glimpses from the deck of the Wanderer. We take it for granted that no one wlio visits these now cele- brated Islands will wish to leave them without participating at least once (and many go made times without failure of interest) in the enjoyment of this ex(!ursion, and as it will be regarded by many persons as desirable to presei-ve some memento of so delight- ful an experience, this little account of th« trip, with some local and historical informaticm in regard to prominent places and objects of interest which it brings to view has been prepared, which in connection with the MAP OF THE ROUTE and the adjacent portions of the river (of which copies are for sale on the boat) will both serve the immediate purpose of giving such infornuition as is often desired, and afterward of preserving their features in the memory of those who have enjoyed the excursion. As the boat stops briefly at the principal summer resorts on her route among the Islands, the visitor may commence his journey at any convenient point. The time table and fares are so arranged as to give every one the entire round, and generally if desired to stop over a few hours at any of the landings between the trips and resume his journey on the return of the boat, all in one day and for a single moderate fare. The trip proper, however, commences at the village of ALEXANDRIA BAY, which seems to be a sort of central headquarters for n.08t of the vaiious movements of the summer life among the Islands, although it is perhaps true that hundreds who have reached only some of the upper parks suppose (we think however erroneously) that they have seen the Thousand Islands, when, in fact, they have never yet set eyes on the loveliness which surrounds this most charming of all their summer resorts. For the sake then of following the entire route in regular order, we will make this our STARTING POINT, and begin our account with the departure of the boat from her dock in front of Cornwall Brother's stone store. 1 do not pro- pose to give any lengthened description of the village and its nil the deck of lese now (iele- irticipating at of interest) in > regarded by of so delight- ith some local it places and een prepared. ies are for sale of giving such reserving their the excursion. : resorts on her his journey at ire so arranged ly if desired to 1 the trips and in one day and ige of 'or n-ost of the ands, although I only some of usly) that they ley have never most charming ■ following the boat from her 1 do not pro- village and its I *— -, '*-'i ■ '0 THE I8LAyi> WANDEllER. T famous hotels. This is to be found in the Hotel Guide Books, and as tills little book is sui)posHd to be in the hands of those who ejther have had or will have oi)])ortunity to see these for them- selves, the labor of description may well be spared. Of the village Itself, it may be of some interest to the curious in the local anti- quarian liistory, to note tJiat its site was selected so far back as 1804 by u surveyor for JAMES LE RAY DE CHAUMONT. This gentleman was the son of a distinguished French nobleman, and left the court of Prance toward the close of the last century and settled in this county. Whether or not it was in anticipa- tion of the political troubles then >)rewing, and which a few years later eventuated in the bloody scenes of the French revolution, we cannot certainly say, but it is a well-knov^'n historical fact that then and soon afterward there was a very considerable French immigration to this and other points contiguous to the St. Law- rence. De Chaumont became a proprietor of extensive tracts of land in Jefferson county, and it was under his auspices that this town and others were first permanently settled. He gave his name and the names of various members of his family to many towns and villages, among them that of his son Alexander to Alexandria. He was long known as a very popular and public - spirited citizen, who not only encouraged settlement and improve- ment upon his own lands, but identified himself with all the interests of the coun'ry of his temporary adoption, but finally returned to his estates in France about 1810. Alexandria Bay was chosen as the most feasible locality along- this part of the river for a PORT OF ENTRY for a considerable section ^f. the adjacent country, being, in fact, the only good harbor easily accessible between Clayton and Mor- ristown, a distance of about thirty-four miles. In the very early settlement it had a considerable trade in timber and staves, of which vast quantities were collected every season in the sheltered waters on either side of the village. I have thought of this as the probable origin of the familiar cognomen by which the little set- tlement has been so long known. The place where the principal produce of their industry was carried to be sold or bartered was really a "bay," although which of two it would be difficult now "A ''-:Sa^CdlAiSMilttlteiu.» '- ' i i. i im i iiiii i wii i Mii.wiBJMiWii i iii."' r»»T- •8 THE ISLAND WANDERER. to decide. So short and easy a title naturally transferred itself to the whole settlement, and so the village acquired the eoubriquet which it seems destined now to retain. The collections of timber in various forms, were annually floated by the merchants who purchased them in large rafts to the Montreal market. Later, and in fact up to about twenty years ago, in the flourishing days of the lake navigation, before the steamboats were superseded by the railroads on either side of Lake Ontario, it was a place for large shipments of produce from the interior. Many thousands of bushels of grain and packages of dairy pro- ducts found their way to distant markets over its wharves. The cutting and gathering of wood for the supply of the Steamboats which navigated the Lake and River was also a very important industry, the activity of which for a long period gave winter em- ployment to a considerable part of the population, and enabled many to pay for their land. But perhaps we are dwelling too long upon upon these local memories of the past, and you will be impatient for the enjoyment of the present in the commencement of our promised excursion. We will choose the afternoon trip as the one more generally pat- ronized from this point, and on tine afternoons, as are most of those in summer on the St. Lawrence, it will be a real luxury to get away from tlie hotels and breathe fi'eely the pure ozonic air that at this hour is usually fanning the surface of the water to a gentle ripple. Going on board a few minutes before the hour of starting, we may have a brief opportunity to gaze upon the PANORAMA OP LIPE AND BEAUTY which spreads around us. It may be supposed that you have not failed to notice the magnificent hotels which are just at hand, the two larger, the "Thousand Island House" and the "Crossmon,"both within a few rods on either side immediately fronting, and the well kept grounds extending to the river, and the "St. Lawrence," somewhat smaller, but still able to accommodate about 100 guests, just opposite us and a block further back. While waiting for the boat to start let us take a preliminary view of WHAT IS GOINO ON ABOUT US. The Dock itself presents a busy scene. Lusty porters sweating tinder the enormous loads of baggage going off in the afternoon ~-:iM ferred itself to Dlie poubriquet ions of timber lerchants who )t. Later, and ishing days of erseded by the place for large )8 of dairy pro- wharves. The he Steamboats ^ery important ive winter em- in, and enabled pon these local the enjoyment ised excursion, 3 generally pat- as are most of I real luxury to 3ure ozonic air f the water to a of starting, we JTY at you have not list at hand, the Jrossmon,"both •onting, and the ' St. Lawrence," bout 100 guests, ; waiting for the S. )orters sweating in the afternoon >|jai ' ui'jyy t l,, i g -' THE ISLAND WANDKREU. 9 boats for the railroads at Cape Vincent and Clayton, and parties of Ijidies and gentlemen hurrying to the same destination. Skiffs are gaily flitiu.g in various directions over the river in front, some tilled with parties of pleasure rowing about for their own amuse- ment ; some intent on preparations for fisliing ; some perhaps bringing passengers from the Islands in the v "cinity, for departure b}- the bv^ats, or perhaps to join the Wanderer in her favorite ex- cursion. THE MORE DISTANT SURROUNDINGS may Avell also take a moment of our attention. Look right over the stern of our boat across the bay below Crossmon's. On the rocky point beyond is BONNIE CASTLE, the beautiful tnd unique summer residence of Dr. J. G. Holland, whose name you will at once recognize as the accomplished and talented editor of Scribner's Magazine, and one of the most cele- brated of our American literary men — whom not to know some- thing of, especially here at Alexandria Bay, for whicli he has done so much, and where he is so loved and honored, were a display of ignorance not lightly to be confessed. The Doctor thinks this part fag l! 10 THE ISLAND AVANDERER. of the St. Lawrence, if noc tlie most beautiful, yet " the sweetest spot on earth," and no doubt the high excellence of his literary- work is largely due to the inspiration ol the summer breezes which for three or four months in the year it gives liim so richly to enjoy. In front of Bonnie Castle we have AN EX'i ENDED AND MAGNIFICENT VIEW down the cluinnel of the River, which is studded with Islands that seem to lioat like emeralds on a sea of glass. On a few of them are small cottages, but they are too distant to be readily distinguished, and in fact for the owners of most of them we shall ourselves have to refer to the list published in connection with the map. The Sunken Rock Light House about half a mile distant, beyond which lies an Island of some forty acres in its primitive forest con- dition, called Deer Island, and the Canadian Light House about four miles distant on the head of a large Island known here as "Grenadier," you will not fail to see. A little to the left of these across the channel of the river, about a mile distant, but still in good view, is what is known as MANHATTAN ISLAND, on which are the tasteful summer residences of Judge Jas. C. Spencer, of New York city, and J. L. Hasbrouck. It it the largest and central Island of quite a little group which is known as "Manhattan group," some of which are connected by rustic bridges, and together- are a little paradise. This is the first Island on which any one attempted a summer home. SETH GREEN, now widely known as the fish commissioner of the State of New York, built a cottage there, where his family summered and he went a-fishing for two or three seasons, about twenty-five years ago, and it is a very probable supposition that here he acquii-ed, a part at least, of the sltill in fish-ology which has since become so celebrated and useful. Glancing still around to the left we get a glimpse of a small house on elevated ground, which is on DESHLER'S, a beautiful Island of about fifteen acres, the property of W. G. Deshler, Esq., a banker of Columbus, Ohio, one of the early dis- ' the sweetest ii liis literary breezes wliich. I so richly to riEW 1 Islands that \v of them are listinguished, lurselves have le map. The (tant, beyond Lve forest con- House abont aown here as B left of these t, but still in. fudge Jas. C. -J it the largest is known as Ded by rustic he first Island State of New mered and he nty-five years e he acquired, since become the left we get h is on erty of W. G-. the early dis- THE ISLAND WANDERER. 11 coverers of the beanty of the Thousand Islands, who for many years has generally made Alexandria Bay his summer quarters. The little cottage is for the accommodation of the man who takes care of the Island, Mr. Deshler prefering to remain with his family at Crossmon's. Still further to the left, and above Deehler's is HART'S ISLAND, on the highest point of which, the tower and roof of a large and handsome cottage show themselves among the oaks which crovm the dummit. It was erected by the Hon. E. K. Hart, of Albion, N. Y., about 1873, but has usually for a few suramers past been occupied by parties from Ogdensburg. Hart's Island is reputed as the place whore the Iiish poet Moore wrote the celebrated Cana- dian Boat Song, early in the present century. The tradition has this foundation, that the published works of Moore mention it as having been written on the St. Lawrence, as also one other of his poems, and since this establishes the fact that he visited the Islands somewhere, the song is just as likely to have been compos- ed here as anywhere else, which is probably about oil there is of it. Away past the head of Hart's Island and quite across a larger intervening stretch of water on the other side of it, we get a view of several cottages in the forest on WESTMINSTER PARK which occupies five hundred acres of the lower point of Wells Island. You will also notice the long dock built for the use of the Park on this side, and some distance back from the shore, the spire of Bethune Chapel crowning the high wooded knoll where it shows itself among the forest growth. It is a pretty structure, erected by the Park Association for the use of its residents and visitors, where divine worship is observed in the usage of the Presbyterian Church during the visiting season. As opportunity will be given to call at the Park on our return homeward, a nearer and more satisfactory view of the improvements of this magnificent summer resort, which are more on the other side, may be had by any one desiring to visit them. The next in order of the circuit of the pamorama before us, is a v^ry fine summer house erected the present season (1881) for Mrs. LeConte, of Philadelphia. It is on ISLE IMPERIAL, which was formerly not much more than a little cluster of rocks with a few trees on one of them, but having been enlarged by filling between t! 13 THE ISLAND WANDERER. and around them, is so finely located in front of the hotels and but a few hundred yards distant, as to have become one of the most attractive of residences. Next in order is a small cottage on another small Island called "Maud" not much more than the size of a city lot, and the property of Rev. F. B. A. Lewis, of Water- town. Miss Bullock, of Adams, owns the cottage perched on the cliff almost dirrectly beyond, which is on a high bluff of Wells Islands well named Point Lookout, as it looks out on the most magnificent prospect in every direction^ On the same Island not far above, are to be seen between the smaller Islands, some of the buildings of a large dairy farm of five hundred acres at which our cottage summer residents find it convenient to be supplied with milk during their stay. Nearly between the dairy buildings and our position ' FLORENCE ISLAND has a small tasty cottage owned by H. S. Chandler, Esq., under- stood to be connected with the "N. Y. IndejDendent." RYE ISLAND immediately above, was cleared of its timber some years since, and some cultivation attempted upon it, but the effort to make it pro- ducti>'e has long since been abandoned, and having partially grown up with young trees, is is a favorite camping ground for parties of young people who desire to remain in the vicinity of the village and hotels. It is. still owned by Messrs. Walton, the original proprietors of all the Islands in the vicinity, who have declined for the present to dispose of it, though we believe they have had fre- quent opportunities of doing so at a large price. FRIENDLY ISLAND, which will be easily distinguished as we pass up on our course, by its name conspicuously painted on the steep abattis of rock which fronts the channel of the river just above, is owned by some gentlemen in New York city, who purchased it some years since, as was understood for purposes of improvement, which for some reason have not been effected. In the interval between Rye and Friendly Islands, peeps out of the foliage where it is snugly nestled among embowering trees, an unpretending cottage that you would hardly observe except by close inspection. It is on »w^ y_ ' - v, mt f ^ j r ^ !' - " wr»**r:i: ■--■ ■■ (<^ *: ' 'f - * vj ^ • •mf els and but I the most cottage on lan the size , of Water- ;hed on the iff of Wells n the most B Island not some of the it which our pplied with aildings and Esq., under- ars since, and ) make it pro- irtially grown for parties of of the village , the original re declined for have had fre- our course, by of rock which wned by some me years since, ivhich for some ands, peeps out ibowering trees, (serve except by THE ISLAND WANDERER. WELCOME ISLAND, 13 a visit to which would charm any one who loves to look out of some quiet nook upon the hurry of the busy world, and be liimself undisturbed by it. It is the property and summer residence of Hon. S. G. Pope, of Ogdensburg, whose taste and resources as a builder are amply shown in the finest structures both of simple cottages and more elaborate residences which grace the Islands of the vicinity. Above Welcome and Friendly Islands and in full view are the white cottages of ^v , * PULLMAN ISLAND, which although by no means pretentious in its architectural erec- tions, yet from its associations is probably an object of quite as general interest as any in the vicinity. It is the property of Geo. M. Pullman, Esq., of Sleeping Car notoriety, whose entertainment of Gen. Grant with a large party of friends in the summer of 1872 has so impressed itself among the notable events of the Islands as not soon to be forgotten. THE VISIT OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE U. S. a notable event at any time, was especially so as it occurred the summer preceeding the presidential election which gave Gen. Grant his second term of office, and was of course a matter of interest throughout the countiy. The political caldron was boiling with all the activity incident to the near election, and multitudes of patriotic citizens, to say nothing of aspiring politicians aU over the country suddenly discovered how exceeding pleasant, convenient and conductive to health it might be to visit the St. Lawrence and go-a-fishing, for what ? may easily be conjectured. But this visit, whether or not it had anything to do with the next presidency, evidently had a great deal to do in directing public attention to the Islands as a delightful and accessible summer resort, and it probably lost none of its natural effect upon the public mind from the circumstance that a large party of members of the newspaper press, on an excursion from Watertown, where they were in atten- dance on aa editoral convention, had been very handsomely en- tertained at an out door epilation on the same Island, early the same season. There had for some years been a plentiful lack of accommodation for any very large number who might desire to spend some time 1 •-aft&aaease--.- 14 TIIK ISLAND WANDERER. at tlie Islands. This year the lack, greater than ever, was demon- strated in a very practical way. As the immediate result, plans for new and larger hotels, long before talked of, found active promo- ters with the necessary amount of capital. The next season these two immense caravanseries were ready for the reception of guests, and since that time Alexandria Bay has been famous. Changes and improvements have since been continually going on, all look- ing particularly to the accommodation of the increasing thous- ands who have here annually sought health and recreation. • But by this time the boat will be starting — we shall soon see more evidences of the improvements of which we speak. As we pass ujj the River the lirst to claim our attention is a very neat cottage, or rather two of them, on a little cliff, which emerged from their hiding behind Friendly Island on the right. They are on NOBBY ISLAND, the property of Henry R. Heath,of New York city, and C. E. Goodwin, of Oneida, N.Y., who built here about 1873, and who with their many friends have made the Island merry with their annual gatherings. CHERRY ISLAND NOBBY ISLAND. ou the left, had a small rough cottage erected upon it, as early as 1860, which has been variously and irregularly occupied, mainly as a convenient shelter for camping parties. This year there have been two other and better cottages built, the first, a large house named "Melrose Lodge, by parties from Chicago, socially connected with the Pullmans. In fact the wife of A. B. Pullman, Esq., with her friend Mrs. G. B. Marsh, are joint owners. The upper and smaller cottage is owned by Rev. Geo. Rockwell, now of Pulton, N. Y.. but best known in this region as for more than twenty years the pastor of the Reformed Church, the first organized in Alexandria Bay. was demon- lit, plans for 3tive promo- jeason these an of guests, L8. Changes on, all look- iasing thotts- ation. ihall soon see )eak. As we LS a very neat lich emerged They are on y of Henry R. ew York city, Goodwin, of Y., who built 1873, and who many friends Le the Island bi their annual ^Y ISLAND It, had a small hich has been venient shelter two other and imed "Melrose icted with the an, Esq., with The upper and aow of Fulton, re than twenty rat organized in TIIK ISLAND WANDEKER. 16 Nearly opposite this we pass quite near Pullman Island. Ji st Jibove Cherry Island you mark the singular Rock known as Oven Island, or as some call it "DEVIL'S OVEN," whifh rises out of the dee], water much in the general form of an old fashioned out door Dutch oven, and to com. plete the resemblance, has a large ope ling at the water level under one side, which is said to have been one of the hiding places cf the tjlebrated Bill John- ston, who figured largely hereabout in the border troubles of 1837-38, the scene of whose most famous exploit we will pass by and by. Above the oven we pass on the left four cottages, two of which we can only name as Cuba, OAvned by W. F. Story, buUt about 18/6, and Wau Winet, by J. G. Hill, of Chicago, built last year. WARNER'S ISLAND is the third, and is situated about in the centre of the channel, so that we pass quite near, and get a good view of the improvemeuts. It 18 the property of H. H. Warner, a wealthy and public spirited citizen of Rochester, N. Y., whose name ought to be pretty weU known, at least in this vicinity seeing that his "Safe Bitters," II Safe Pills," "Safe Tonic," "Safe Kidney Cure" and other "Safe" medicines are not sparingly advertised, not only in the newspapers generally, but especiaUy hereabout on buildings, fences, and other convenient sign boards, almost everywhere except on h is own Island. Whatever we may think of the taste or utility of his advertisements, we canno; deny that Mr. Warner has shown excellent taste in choosing and adorning his summer home, for he has here transformed what was before rather a barren and rocky island to a garden of beauty and attraction. WARNER'S ISLAND. ■•m^ ' T*-* '""* "■ *'F -f < w* ( ry*"' ' "■ f