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Les diagrammes suivants lllustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pv/- y^Liy..^^^/^ AN ACCOUNT OF EXPEDITIONS TO THX fbwvttfi tit tDe iS^iisissipifi, AVD THBOVOH TBB WESTERN PARTS OF LOUISIANA, TO THE «0VRCB8 Or TBB ARKANSAW, KANS, LA PLATTE, AND PIERRE JAUN, RIVi;RSj ■\, <■■:■'' ifift' : SEKVOBMBD BT ORbBR OV TBB GovEjmMEfrr of the united states DUBZNO TBB TEARS 1805, 1806, AND 1807. AND A TOUR THROUGH TBB INtEmOk PARTS OF NEW SPAIN, ' WBBH COBDVCTBB TBBOy^PB TBBItB rBOVINCES, aroaoKs OP THE CAPIAIN-OENERAL, IN TBB TBAR 1807. By Major Z. M. PIKE. ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AJ^D CHARTS. PHILADELPHIA: f UPLISHBD BT C.^i|| COKBAD, 8c Co. Ko. 30, CBESNVT STRUT. SOSftR- VBLt fc CONRJ^i^BSBimaH. BOBSAL, COHBAD, lc Co. NORFOCK, AND riBLDING LVCA|» Ar. BALTDIORB. J^mni, FHliter....piw. 'fA o li' wi ' ■ BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the seventh day of June, in the thirty-second year of the indejilendlnce of the United States of America^ A. D. 1808, Z. M. Pike ofthesud district, hath deposited inthi&c^ee,th'etitiedfabb»k, tlfei^gttt ^«^6fh«l^a^%«Mi-* thor, in the words followfilig, 'to Wik : « utn account qf exfie^LHonf to the aourcea of the Mutitaififiiy and through the toeatem fmrta ort: : ^* That their gr*?at lather, the presldtent of the Unr* ted States, wishing to be more intimately acquainted with the 'i^tuation, wantsj &c. of the diteent nations of the ired'^^eOple, in our newly acquired territory of Louisiana, had ordo^ed the general to send a number of his young warriors, in different directions, to take them by the hand, and make such enquiries as tnight afford the satisfaction required. Also, that I "\fras authorised to choose situa- tions for their trading establishments ; and wished them to inform me if that place would be considered by them as central. " That I was sorry to hear of the murder, which had been committed on the river below ; but, in conside- ration of their assurances, that it was none of their nation. • JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE v.T and the anxiety exhibited by them on the occasion^ I h^ written to the general and informed him of what they had said on the subject. rr: «* That in their treaty, they engaged to apprehend all traders who came amongst them without license ;, ^T that time, I could not examine their traders on diis sub- ject; but, that on my return,, i would ibake a particular examination* , . , ;,■ .- i',',, , ■:; jlrjiMViih nwm *' That if they thought proper, they might serid a young man in my boat, tQ informthe other villages of iJ^y mission, &c." . ;:',•) '. . . ';v/{Vrijf I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, and whiskey. They replied to the following purport t a f J '' That they thanked me for the good opinion I haid of their nation, and for what I had written the general. That themselves, their young warriors, and the >^hple nation was glad to see me amongst thenij^tod no Insl erf'l "That as for the situation of ^e trading houles, diey could: n0t determii^0, being but a, part of the nation. With respecft Co sending a young m^n. along, that, if; I would wait until to-morrow, they : wo^Ld choose one out. And finally, thanked me for my tpbaccp^; knives^ and whiskey." , ; .rriiim ,9tfim;adii!tihi*try >.x^^^^ Not wishing lo loose any tiii^e, after writing to the general** and my friends, I embarked and made sixrmlles above the village. Encamped on a sand bar. One: ^ayioe of savages passed, iijj^i^i > . ,/, 22d August ; Ti)z//(i(/dr)^— Embarked at 5 o'clock/ A^ M. hard head winds. Passed ar great number of islands. The river very wide and full of sand bars. Distance 2^ miles. M 23d August; Friday — Cool morning; camjj on 5 1-4 miles, where, on the west shore, there is a very * See ** appendix to fart I," [No. »| jpsge i. , TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPL f handsome situation for a garrison. The channel of the river passes under the hill, vrhich is about 60 feet perpen- dicular, and level on the top. Four hundred yards in the rear, there is a small prairie of 8 or 10 acres, which would be a convenient spot for gardens ; and on the east side of the river, there is a beautiful prospect over a large prairie, as far as the eye can extend, now and then interrupted by groves of trees. Directly under the rock is a limestone spring, which, after an hour's work, would afford water amply sufficient for the consumption of a regiment. The landing is bold and safe, and at the lower part of the hill, a road may be made for a team in half an hour. Black and white oak timber in abundance. The mountain con- tinues about two miles, and has five springs bursting from it in that distance. Met four Indians and two squaws ; land- ed with them ; gave them one quart of made whiskey, a few biscuit and some salt. I requested some venison of them, they pretended they could not understand me ; but after we had left them, they held up two hams, and hal- looed and laughed at us in derision. Passed nine horses on shore, and saw many signs of Indians. Passed a hand- some prairie on the east side, and encamped at its head. Three batteaux from Michilimackinac ; stopped at our camp, we were told they were the property of Mr. Myers Michals; we were also informed, that the largest Sac village was about 2 1-2 miles out on the prairie; and that this prairie was called half way to the prairie Des Cheins, from St. Louis. 24ith August ; Saturday — ^In the morning passed a number of islands. Before dinner, corporal Bradley and myself took our guns and went on shore ; we got behind a savannah, by following a stream we conceived to have been a branch of the river, but which led us at least two leagues from it. My two favorite dogs, having gone out with us, gave out in the prairie, owing to the heat, high ;! t ;8 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE grass, and w^nt of wztfsr ; but thinking they would conne on, we continued our march. We heard the report of a gun, and supposing it to be from our boat, answered it ; shortly after, however, we passed an Indian, trail, which appeared as if the persons had been hurried, I presume at the report of our guns j for with this people, all strangers are enemies. Shortly after we struck the river, and the boat appeared in view ; stayed some time for my dogs ; two of iAy men volunteered to go in search of them. Encamped on the west shore, nearly opposite to a chalk bank. My two men had not yet returned, and it was ex- traordinary, as they knew my boat never waited for any person on shore : they endeavored to strike the Mississip- pi ahead of us. We fired a blunderbuss at three different times, to let them know where we lay. Distance 23 1-2 miles. 25tb August ;^ Sunday — Stopt on the sand bank prairie, on the £. side, from which you have a beautiful prospect of at least 40 miles down the river, bearing S. 38* E. Discovered that our boat leaked very fast ; but we secured her inside so completely with oakum and tallow^ as nearly to prevent the leak. Fired a blunderbuss ^very hour, sdl day, as signals for our men. Passed the river Iowa. Encamped at night on the prairie, marked Gr^»/*/ prairie. The men had not yet arrived. Distance 29 miles. 26/A August ^ Monday — Rain, with a very hard head wind. Towed our boat about nine miles, to where the river Hills joins the Mississippi. Here I expected to find the i two men I had lost, but was disappoints d. The mercury in I Reamur at 13°; whereas yesterday, it was 26°. Met two peroques full of Indians, who commenced hollowing, " How do you do," &c. they then put to shore and beck- oned us to do so likewise, but we continued our course. This day very severe on the men^ Distance 28 1-2 miles. TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 9 OUth August ; Tuesday — Embarked early ; cold N. wind ; mercury 10° ; the wind so hard ahead, that we were obliged to tow the boat all day. Passed one peroque of Indians, also the Riviere De Roche, late in the day. Some Indians who were encamped there, embarked in their canoes and ascended the river before us. The wind so very strong, that, although dovjrn the stream, they were near sinking. Encamped about 4 miles above the Riviere De Roche, on the W. shore. This day passed a pole on a prairie, on which five dogs were hanging. Distance 22 miles. 2%th August ; Wednesday — ^About an hour after we had embarked, we arrived at the camp of Mr. James Aird, a Scotch gentleman of Michilimackinac. He had encamped, with some goods, on the beach ; and was re- pairing his boat, which had been injured in crossing the rapids of the Riviere De Roche (at the foot of which we now were.) He had sent three boats back for the goods left behind. Breakfasted with him and obtained consider- able information. Commenced ascending the rapids.... Carried away our rudder in the first ; but after getting it repaired, the wind raised, and we hoisted sail ; and, aU though entire strangers, we sailed through them with a perfect gale blowing all the time ; when, had we struck a rock, in all probability we would have bilged and sunk. But we were so fortunate as to pass without touching. Met with Mr. Aird*s boats (which had pilots) fast on the rocks. Those shoals are a continued chain of rocks, extending in some places from shore to shore, about 18 miles in length. They afford more water than those of De Mo- yen, but are much more rapid. 29/A August ; Thursday — Breakfasted at the Reynard village, above the rapids ; this is the first village of the Reynards. I expected to have found my two men here, but was disappointed. Finding they had not passed, I 10 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE lay by until 4 o'clock P. M. the wind fair all the time. The chief informed me, by signs, that in four days they could march to Prairie Des Cheins ; and promised to fur- nish' them with mockinsons, and put them on their rout. Set sail and made at least four knots an hour. I was dis- posed to sail all night, but the wind lulling, we encamped on the point of an island, on the W. shore. Distance 20 miles. SOtb August ; Friday — Embarked at 5 o'clock ; wind fair, but not very high. Sailed all day. Passed four pe- roques of Indians. Distance 43 mil.^s. 31st August; Saturday — ^Embarked early. Passf^l one peroque of Indians ; also, two encampments ; one on a beautiful eminence, on the W. side of the riyer. This place had the appearance of an old town. Sailed almost all day. Distance 31 1-2 milest \st Sept. Sunday — ^Embarked early ; wind fair ; ar- rived at the lead mines at 12 o'clock. A d)s>;ntery with which I had been alHicted several days, was suddenly checked this morning ; which, I believe to have been the occasion of a very violent attack of fever about 1 1 o'clock. Notwithstanding it was very s vere, I dressed myself, with an intention to execute the orders of the general re- lative to this place. \v e were saluted with a field piece, and received with every mark of attention, by Monsieur Du- buque, the proprietor. There were no horses at the house, and it was six miles to where the mines were worked ; it was therefore impossible to make a report by actual inspection. I therefore proposed ten queries, on the answers to which my report was founded.* Dined with Mr. D. who inform- ed me that the Sioux and Sauteurs were as warmly en- gaged in opposition as ever ; that not long since, the for- mer killed 15 Sauteurs, who on the 10th August in re- :!!'! • Sec appendix to part I. [No. a] page j. TO THK SOURCES OF TFIE MISSISSIPPI. i^' tiim killed 10 Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peters; and that a war party, composed of the Sacs, Reynards, and Puants, of 200 warriors had embarked on an expe- dition against the Sauteurs, but that they had heard, that the chief having had an unfavorable dream, persuaded the paijy to return, and that I would meet them on my voy- age. At this place I was introduced to a chief, called the Raven of the Reyriards. He made a very flowery speech on the occasion, which I answered in a few words, ac- companied by a small present. I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and was about to embark, when a peroque arrived, in which they were, with a Mr. Blondeau, and two Indians, whom that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony river. The two soldiers had been six days without any thing to eat, except muscles : when they met Mr. James Aird, by whose humanity and attention their strength and spirits were in a measure, restored ; and they were ena- bled to reach the Reynard village, where they met with Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them with com and shoes, and shewed his friendship, by every possible at- tention. I immediately discharged the hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage to the Prairie T)es Chjins. Left the lead mines at 4 o'clock. Distance 25 miles. 2d Sept, Monday-^Aher making two short reaches, we commenced one, which is 30 miles in length, the wind serving, we just made it ; and encamped on the E. sid ,• op- posite to the mouth of Turkey river. In the course of the day, we landed to shoot at pidgeons ; the moment a gun was fired, some Inctians, who were on the shore above us, ran down and put oflF in their peroques with great precipitation ; upon which Mr. Blondeau informed me, that all the women and children were frightened at the ve- ry name of an American boat, and that the men held us 13 • joukKal of a voyage I in great respect, conceiving us very quarrelsome, and much for war, and also very brave. This information 1 used as prudence suggested. We stopt at an encamp- ment, about three miles below the town, where they gave us some excellent plums. They despatched a peroque to the village, to give notice, as I supposed, of our arrival. It commenced raining about dusk, and rained all night. Distance 40 miles. 3d Sept. Tuesday-^Emhiaked at a pretty early hour. Cloudy. Met two peroques of family Indians ; they at first asked Mr. Blondeau, *' if we were for war, or if going to war ?" I now experienced the good effect, of having some person on board, who could speak their lan- guage ; for they presented me with three pair of ducks, and a quantity of venison, sufficient for all our crew, one day ; in return, I made them some trifling presents. Af- terwards met two peroques, carrying some of the warriors spoken of on the 2d inst. They kept at a great distance, until spoken to by Mr. B. when they informed him that their party had proceeded up as high as Lake Pepin, without effecting any thing. It is surprizing what a dread the In- dians, in this quarter, have of the Americans : I have often seen them go round islands, to avoid meeting my boat. It appears to me evident, that the traders have ta- ken great pains, to impress upon the minds of the savages, the idea of our being a very vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This impression was perhaps made with no good intention ; but when they find that our conduct towards them, is guided by magnanimity and justice ; in- stead of operating in an injurious manner, it will have the effect to make them reverence at the same time they fear us. Distance 25 miles. 4th Sept. Wednesday^^-'Bre2ikhsted just below the Ouiscousing. Arrived at the Prairie Des Cheins about 1 1 TO THli SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 13 u^clock ; took quarters at capt. Fishers, and were politely received by him and Mr. Frazer. 5th Sept. Ti&t/n^/i)'— Embarked about half past 10 o'clock in a Schenectady boat, to go to the mouth of the Ouiscousing, in order to take the latitude, and look at the situation of the adjacent hills for a post. Was accompa- nied by judge Fisher, Mr. Frazer, and Mr. Woods. We ascended the hill on the west side of the Mississippi ; I and made choice of a spot which I thought most eligible, [being level on the top, having a spring in the rear, and commanding a view of the country around. A shower [of rain came on which completely wet us ; and we re- Itumed to the village without having ascended the Ouis- [cousing as we intended. Marked four trees with A. B. Ic. D. and squared the sides of one in the centre. Wrote |to the general.* 6th Sept, Friday — Had a small council with the Pu- lants, and a chief of the lower band of the Sioux. Visit- led and laid out a posidon for a post, on a hill called the iFetit Gris, on the Ouiscousing, three miles abov^ its Imouth. Mr. Fisher who accompanied mie, was taken very sick, in consequence of drinking some water out of the [Ouiscousing. The Puants never have any white interpre- Iters, nor have the Fols Avoin nation. In my council, I Ispoke to a Frenchman, he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants. Itk Sept. Saturday — My men beat all the villggers Dumping and hopping. Began to load my new boats. 8th Sept. Sunday — ^Embarked at half past 1 1 o'clock \n two batteaux. The wind fair and fresh. I found my- self very much embarrassed and crampt, in my new boats, nth provision and baggage. I embarked two interpre- ters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name was See appendix to part I. [No- 3>1 page %, u JOURNAL OP A VOYAGE '^!!! Pierre Rosseau ; and the other named Joseph Reinulle, paid by Mr. Frazer to accompany mc as high as the falls of St. Anthony. Mr. Frazer it a young gentleman, clerk to Mr. Blakely, of Montreal : he was born in Vermonf^ but has latterly resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman, I am much indebted ; he procur- ed for me every thing in his power that I stood in need of; despatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to go on with me. His design was to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We sailed well, came 18 miles and en- camped on the W. bank. I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the principal inhabitants of the village. There is however a material distinction t < be made in the nature of those attentions : The kindness of Messrs Fisher, Frazer, and Woods, (all Americans) seemed to be the spontaneous effusions of good will : and partiality to their countrymen j it extended to the accom- modation, convenience, exercises, and pastimes of my men ; and whenever they proved superior to the French, openly shewed their pleaoure. But the French Canadians appeared attentive, rather from their natural good man- ners, than sincere friendsliip ; however, it produced from them the same effect that natural good will did in the others. 9th Sept. Monday — ^Embarked early. Dined at Cape Garlic, or at Garlic river j after which we came on to an island on the E, side, about 5 miles below the river Iowa, and encamped. Rained before sun s 5 Distance *2S miles. "*/ ' ' lOtb Sept. Tuesday-^R2an still co ;;.:iiuiiig, we re- mained at our camp. Having shot at some pidgeons, the leport was heard at the Sioux lodges ;• when La Fieulle s*\nt down six of his young men to inform me, ** that he had * The s iisiC to whom I spoke on the 6tb at the Pralrle> TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. »5 « waited three days with meat, ^f . but that last night they " had began to drink, and, that ou rhe next day he would " rec^ . vc me with his people b< 'ber.** 1 rem mod him tor answer, ** that the season was advanced, that :j\c was *♦ pressing, and that if the raii. ceased, i niuw )_ o on." Mr. Frazer and the interpreter went home with ui; In- dians. We embarked about 1 o'clock. Fnizer return- ling, informed me that the chief acquiesced in y rea I sons for p .'Sbing forward, but that he had preparei i pipe [(by ^y^" oi ^"^tter) to present me, to shew to all the uoux [above f, wuh a message to inform them, that I was a chief t;v;'ur new fathers, and that he wished me to be treate \ [with friendship and respect. On our arrival opposite to [th(^ lodges, the men were paraded on the bank, with their runs in their hands. They saluted us (with ball) with [what might be termed three rounds ; which I returned irith three rounds from each boat with my blunderbusses. [This salute, although nothing to soldiers accustomed to jfire, would not be so agreeable, to many people ; as the llndians had all been drinking, and as some of them, even Itried their dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. They may, indeed, be feaid, to have struck on |every side of us. When landed, I had my pistols in my [belt, and sword in hand. I was met, on the bank, by the chief, and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards ^ere formed, and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Jome of my men who were going up with me, I caused to leave their arms behind, as a mark of confidence. At tho ciiief *s lodge, I found a clean mat and pillow, forme to sit on, and the before-mentioned pipe, on a pair of imall crutches before me. The chief sat on my right hand, ly interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. After smok- ig, the chief spoke to the following purport : " That, " notwithstanding he had seen me at the prairie, he was " happy to tikie me by the hand amongst his own people^ r« JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE till) (£ (C (C (C ii ii cc (C oix river. Messrs. Frazer and Cameron, having some )U8me88 to do with the savages, we left them at the en- campment ; but they promised to overtake me, though ley were obliged to travel until 12 o'clock at night. Fired blunderbuss for them at Tattoo. The chain of my watch came unhooked, by lending her to my guard ; this was very serious misfortune. 20th Sept, Friday — ^Embarked after sun rise. Cloudy /ith hard head winds ; a small shower of rain ; cleared ip in the afternoon, and became pleasant. Encamped on prairie on the east side, on which is a large painted stone, )ut 8 miles below the Sioux village. The traders had ^ot yet overtaken me. Distance 26 1-2 miles. 21 St Sept. Saturday— 'Emhaxked at a seasonable hour, breakfasted at the Sioux village, on the east side. It con« |sts of eleven lodges, and is situated at the head of an sland just below a ledge of rocks. The village was eva- lated at this time, all the Indians having gone out to the |inds to gather fols avoin. About two miles above, saw iree bears swimming over the river, but at f oo great a ^stance for us to have killed them ; they made the shore sfore I could come up with them. Passed a camp of lioux, of four lodges, in which I saw only one man, pose name was Biack Soldier, i The garrulity of the wo- H 24 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGli ' (' (■' ' i men astonished me, for at the other camps they never opened their lips ; but here they flocked round us with all their tongues going at the same time j the cause of this freedom must have been the absence of their lords and masters. Passed the encampment of Mr. Ferrebault, who had broken his peroque and had encamped on the west side of the river, about 3 miles below St. Peters. We made our encampment on the N. E. point of the big is- land, opposite to St. Peters. The Mississippi became so very narrow this day, that I once crossed in my batteaUx with forty strokes of my oars. The water of the Mis- sissippi, since we passed Lake Pepin, has. been remarka- bly red ; and where it is deep, appears as black as ink. The waters of the St. Croix and St. Peters, appear blue and /lear, for a considerable distance below their con- fluence. I observed a white flag on shore to day, and on , landing, discov(;red it to be white silk ^ it was suspended I over a scaflfold, on which were laid four dead bodies, two j enclosed in boards, and two in bark. They were wrap- ped up in blankets, which appeared to be quite new. They I were the bodies, 1 was informed, of two Sioux women] (who had lived with two Frenchmen) one of their childrenl and some other relative ; two of whom died at St. Peters! and two at St. Croix, but were brought here, to be depo-l sited upon this scaffold together. This is the manner ofj the Sioux burial, when persons die a natural death ; but! when they are killed, they suffer them to lay unburiedj This circumstance brought to my recollection, the bonesi of a man I found on the hills below the St. Croix ; the javl bone I brought on board. He must have been killed od[ that spot. Distance 24 miles. 22d Sept. Sunday — Employed in the morning, mea' suring the river j about 3 o'clock Mr. Frazer and his pe- 1 I'oques arrived, and in three hours after, the Petit Cor- beau, at the head of his band, arrived with 150 warriors. TO THIL SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. , 95 They ascended the hill, in the pomt between the Mis- issippi and St Peters, and gaye us a salute, a la mode mage^ with balls ; after which w ?. settled the affairs for le council the next day. Mr. Frazer and myself took a fark canoe, and went up to the village, in order to see [r. Cameron. We ascended the St. Peters to the village, nd found his -camp. (No current in the river.) He en» iged to he at the council the next day, and promised to me have his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war ccursion j but hearing (by express) of my arrival, they turned by land. We^were treated very hospitably, and llooed after to go into every lodge, to eat. Returned to camp about 1 1 o'clock and found the Sioux and my ^en peaceably encamped. 23d Sept, Monday — ^Prepared for the council, which commenced about 1 2 o'clock. I had a bower or shade, tde of my sails, on the beach, into which only my gen- len (the traders) and the chiefs entered. I then ad- ;ssed them in ^ speech, which, though long, and touch- on many points, its principal object was, the granting land at this place, falls of St. Anthony and St. Croix, making peace with the Chipeways. I was replied to by Fils de Pinchow, Le Petit Corbeau, and I'Original Leve, by gave me the land required, about 100,000 acres, }ual to 200,000 dollars) and promised me a safe .pass- for myself and any chiefs, I might bring down, but )ke doubtfully with respect to the peace. I gave them ssents to the amount of about 200 dollars, and as soon [the council was over, I allowed the traders to present with some liquor, which, with what I myself gave, equal to 60 gallons. In cMie half hour they were all )arked for their respective villages. The chiefs in the council were : Le Petit Corbeau, signed the grant. ' Le Fils de Pinchow, do. . H JOt'HNAL OF A VOYAGE Le Grand Partisan. Le Original Leve, 1 War cluef, gave him my Other's Le Demi Douzen, v ' tomahawk, &c. &c. Le Beccasse. Le Boeuf que Marche. It was somewhat difficult to get them to sign the grant, as they conceived their word of honor should be taken for the grant without any mark; but I convinced i them it was not on their account, but my own, I wish«dr them to sign it.* 24//& Sept, Tuesday^—la. the morning I discovered my flag was missing from off my boat. Being in doubt whether it had been stolen by the Indians, or ha4 fallenj overboard and floated away, I sent for my fiicnd, thel Original Leve, and sufficiently evinced to him, by the ve] hemence of my action, by the immediate punishment o| my guard, (having inflicted on one of them corpore punishment) and by sending dow:\ the shore three mile in search of it ; how much I was displeaised, that such ; thing should have occurred. I sent a flag and two carrot) of tobacco, by a Mr. Cameron, to the Sioux, at the heal? of the St. Peters \ made a small draft of the position & this place ; sent up the boat I got from Mr. Fisher, to village, on the St. Peters, and exchanged her for a bargtj with Mr« Duncan; my men returned with the bard about sun down. She was a fine light thing, eight mi were able lo carry her. Employed all day in writing. 25th Sept, Wednesday'-A was awakened out of ml bed by Le Petit Corbeau, (head chief) who came up froij his village, to see if we were all killed^ or if any accide had happened to us; this was in consequence of the! having found my flag floating three miles below their villag (^IS miles hence) from which they concluded some affn * See appendix to part I. [No. 3] p. 6,aiul'[No. 4] p. 9. TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 87 ns, or ha4 falleni lad taken pFace, and that it had b$en thrown overboard. Lithough I considered thia an unfortunate accident for le, I was exceedingly happy at its effect ; for it was le occasion of preventing much bloodshed among the ivages. A chief called the Outard ^anche, had his lip off, and had, come to the Petit Corbeau, and told him, that his (ace was his looking glass, that it was spoiled, and that he was determined on revenge." The parties rere charging their gui&, and preparing for action, when ! the flag appeared ; like a messenger of peace, sent to revent their bloody purposes. They were all astonished see it ; the staff was broke. When the Petit Corbeau ^ose and spoke to this effect : ** That a thing so sacred,, had not been taken from my boat, without violence } that it would be proper for them, to hush all private animosities^ until they had revenged the cause of their eldest brother ;, that he would immeiliately go up to St. Peters, to know what dogs had done that thing ; in or- der to take steps to get satisfaction of those, who had done the mischief." They all listened tp this reasoning he immediately had the flag put oi5t to dry, and em- rked for my camp. I was much concerned to hear of ^e blood likely to have been shed, and gave him Ave rds of blue stroud, three yards of calico, one handker- lief, one carrot of tobacco, and one knife, in order to lake peace among his people. He promised to send my ig by land to the falls, and make the peace with the Ou- ird Blanche, Mr. Frazer went up to the village, and we ibarked late, and encamped at the foot oT the rapids, many places, I could scarce throw a stone over the iver. Distance 3 miles. 2Qtb Sept. Tbursday^Emhiiked at the usual hour, id after much labor in passing through the rapids, ar- ^ved at the foot of the falls about 3 or 4 o'clock ; un- ied my boat, and had the principal part of her cargo : i ; 'I M 39 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ii!:i' carried over the portage. With the other boat however full loaded, they were not able to get over th^ last shoot, and encamped about 600 yards below. I pitched my tent and encamped above the shoot. The rapids mentioned in this day's march, mi^ht properly be called % continua- tion of the falls of St. Anthony, for they aie equally en- titled to this appellation, with the falls of the Delaware and Susquehanna. Killed one deer. Distance 9 miles. 2^tb Sept. friday~--Brought f>ver the residue of my loadmg this morning. Two men arrived, from Mr. Fra- zer, on St. Peters, for my dispatches. This business, closing and sealing, appeared like a last adieu to the civi- lized world. Sent a large packet to the general, and a letter to Mrs. Pike, with a short note to Mr. Frazer. Two young Indians brought my flag across by land, who ar- rived yesterday* just as we came in sight of "the falls. I made them a preseM for their punctuality and expedition, and the danger they were exposed to from the journey.— Carried our boats out of the river, as far as the bottom of the hill. 2Stb Sept Satu^ay— 'Brought my barge over, and put her in the river above the &lls— -while we were engaged with her 3-4 miles from camp, seven Indians painted black appeared on the heights — ^We had left our guns at : camp, and were entirely defenceless — ^It occurred to me | that they were the small party of Sioux who were ob- stinate, and would go to war, when the other part of the I bands came in ; these they proved to be ; they wwe better j armed than any I had ever seen ; having guns, bows, ar- rows, clubs, spears, and some of them even a case of | pistols. I was at that time giving my men a dram ; and giving the cup of liquor to the first, he drank it off* ; but Iwas more cautious with the remainder. I sent my inter- preter to camp with them, to wait my coming; wishing to purchase one of their war clubs, it being made of elk TO THE SOURCES OF THE ^I8SIS«TPPI. 19 kom, and decorated with inlaid work. This and a set ol )ws and arrows, I wished to get as a curiosity. But the luor I had given him, beginning to operate, he came ick forme, but refusing to go till I brought my boat, he turned, and (I suppose being offended) borrowed a ca- and crossed the river. In the afternoon got the other )at near the top of the hill, when the props gave way, id she slid all the way down to the bottom, but fortu- Itely without injuring any person. It raining very hard, left her. Killed one goose and a racoon. 29th Sept. Sunday — I killed a remarkably large ra- )n. Got our large boat over the portage, and put her the river, at the upper landing ; this night the men Lve sufficient proof of their fatigue, by all throwing emselves down to sleep, preferring rest to supper...*, lis day I had but 15 men out of 22 ; the others were :k. This voyage could have been performed with great ^nv^ence, if we had taken our departure in June. But \e proper time would be to leave the Illinois as soon as le ice would permit, when the river would be of a good fcight. . SOth Sept. Afo«^i^y— Loaded my boat, move^ over encamped on the island. The larg^ boats loading Lewise, we went over and put on board. In the mean le, I took a survey of the Falls, Portage, &c. If it be )ssible to pass the falls in high water, of which I am )ubtful, it must be on the east side, about thirty yards )m shore ; as there are three layer of rocks, one below ie other. The pitch off of either, is not more than five it ; but of this I can say more on my return.* 1st Oct, Tuesday — ^Embarked late. The river at first |>peared mild, and sufficiently deep ; but after about four bles, the shoals commenced, and had very hard water all • h M never poulbl)?, as ascertained on my return. » A so JOl/RNAL OF A VOYAGE n I \m i'!lH I'lii day; passed three rapids; killed one goose and two ducks. This day the sun shone after I had left the falls ;| but whilst there, it was always cloudy. Distance 171 miles. 2d Oct. Wednesday — ^Embarked at our usual hour J and shortly after passed some large islands and remarkably hard ripples. Indeed the navigation, to persons not deter- mined to proceed, would have been deemed impractica. ble. We waded nearly all day, to force the boats off shoals, and draw them through rapids. Killed three geese and two swans. Much appearance of elk and deer. Dis- tance 12 miles. 3d Oct, Tbursday'-^Cold in the morning. Mercury at 0*. Came on very well ; some ripples. Killed three geese and one racoon, also a brelaw, an animal I had never before seen. Water ripply, and shoals. DistanceJ 15 1-2 miles. 4th Oct. Friday — Rained in the morning, but the! wind serving, we embarked, although extremely raw and! cold. Opposite to the mouth of Crow river we found ai bark canoe, cut to pieces with tomahawks and the paddles! broke^ on shore ; a short distance higher up, w6 saw fivel more ; and co^^nued to see the wrecks, until we fbund| eight. From the^form of the canoes, my interpreter pro-| nounced them to be Sioux ; and some broken arrows, to] be the Sauteurs. The paddles were also marked with the! Indian sign of men and women killed. From all these! circumstances, we drew this inference, that the canoeii had been the vessels of a party of Sioux, who had beeol attacked and all killed or taken by the Sauteurs. Timel may developc this transaction. My interpreter was mucbl alarmed, assuring me that it was probable that at our firsti rencounter with the Chipeways, they would take us fori Sic ) traders, and iire on us before we could come to an| explanation ; that they had murdered three Frenchmen, TO THIi SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 31 lom they found on the shore about this tim^ last spring ; It notwithstanding his information, I was on shore, ail afternoon in puiiuit of elk. Caught a curious little ^mal on the prairie, v/hich my Frenchman termed 2iprai- mole, but it is very different from the mole of the jites. Killed two geese, one pheasant, and a wolf. Disr ice 16 miles. 5tb Oct. Saturday — ^Hard water and ripples all day. ssed several old Sioux encampments, all fortified.... Ifund five litters, in whi'^h sick or wounded men had 2n carried. At this place a hard battle was fought be- ^en the Sioux and Sauteurs in the yeai* 1 800. Killed goose. Distance 11 miles. 6tb Oct, Sunday — Early in the morning discovered ir elk, they swam the river, I pursued them, and* )unded one, who made his escape into a marsh ; saw \o droves of elk. I killed some small game, and joined boats near night. Found a small red capst hung upon tree ; this my interpreter informed me was a sacrifice by >me Indians to the bon Dieu. I determined to lay by hunt the next day. Killed three prairie he»s, and \o pheasants. This day saw the first elk. Distance 1 2. les. 1th Oct. Monday — Lay by ill order to dry my com, loathing, &c. and to h^ve an investigation into the con- ict of my sergeant, against whom some charges wer< chibited. Sent several of my men out hunting. I went Awards evening and killed some prairie hens ; the hun- (rs were unsuccessful. Killed three prairie hens and six leasants. ^ . 8th Oct. Xw^J^^jV"— Embarked early and made a very )od day's march ; had but three rapids to pass all day, )me woodland on the W. side, oak ; but the whole bot- im covered with the prickly ash. I made a, practice, to )lige every man who complained of indisposition, to m ^ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ' i'Hi march; by which I had some flankers on both sides of! the river, who were excellent guards against surprize, | they also served as imnters. We haa but one rac«on kil- led by all. Distance 20 miles. 9th Oct* Wednesday — ^Embarked early ; wind ahead ;I barrens and prairie. ^ Killed one deer and four pheasants, Distance 3 miles. 10th Oct. Thursday — Game to large islands and strong water eariy in the moaning. Passed the place at which Mr. Reinville and Mons. Perlier, wintered in 1797; passed a cluster of islands, more than 20 in the course of four miles *, these I called Beaver islands, from the im- mense sign of those animals, for they have dams on every island and roads from them every two or three rod. I *would here attempt a description of this wonderful ani- mal, and its admirable system of architecture, was not the subject already exhausted, by the numerous travellers who have written on this subjettv Encamped at the footj of the Grand Rapids. Killed two geese, five ducks, and four pheasants. Distance 16 1-2 miles. 1 tth Oct. ^fiday — Both boats passed the worst of the rapids, by 11 o'clock, but we were obliged to wade and lift them over rocks, where there was nq| a foot of water, when at times the next*step would be in water over our heads. In consequence of this, our boats were frequently in imminent danger of being bilged on the rocks. About 5 miles above the rapids, our large boat was discovered to leak so fast, as to render it necessary to unload her,| which we did. Stopped the leak and reloaded. Near aj war encampment, I found a painted buckskin and a piece I of scarlet cloth, suspended by the limb ofc a tree ; this ij supposed to be a sacrifice to Matcho Maniton, to render? their enterprize successful ; but I took the liberty of in- vading the rights of his diabolical majesty, by treating! them, as the priests of old have often done, that is, con- ;;i!i TO THE SOURCES OF 1 HE MISSISSIPPI. 3S ig the sacrifice to my own use. Killed only two icks. Distance eight miles. I2th October, Saturday. — ^Hard ripples in the morn- Passed a narrow rocky {^ace, after which we had water. Our large boat again sprung a leak, and we re obliged agsun to encamp early and unload. Killed deer, one wolf, two geese and two ducks. Distance 1-2 miles. ' "^-'■■r^•' — ■/■■.^l .bs-fir 13tb October, Stt»i/iy.— Embarked early and came on U. Passed a handsome little river on the east, which j named Clear river j water good. Killed one deer, one ^er, two minks, two geese, and one duck. Fair wind. :overed the first buf&lo sign. Distance 29 miles; 14-ft& October, JWro«<%.— Ripples ;a considerable way.. hunters killed three deer, four geese, and two porcu- When hunting, discovered a trail, which I sup. >d to have been made by the savages. I followed it much precaution, and at length started a large bear ling on vthe carcase of a deer : he soon made his es<< Yesterday we came to the first timbered land above [falls. Made the first discovery of bear since we left ^Louisi, e^icepting what we jsaw three miles below St. Itrs. Distance 17 miles, t ,; I5tb October, TlMWi?;'.-*r-RippIes all day. la the ling ihet large boat came up, and! once more got my together ; they had been detained by taking in the le. Yesterday and this day passed some skirts of good I, well timbered, swaihps of hemlock and white pine, [ter very hard. The river became shallow and full of ids. We encamped (Hi a beautiful point, on the west, ^w a fall of the river over a bed of rocks, through :h we had two narrow shoots to make our way the day. Killed two deer, five ducks, and two geese. day's march made me think seriously of our winter- E 111 ( ■'»,' u JOUUNAL OF A VOYAGE I 'i m !:' f!! » ing^gxbund and leaving our large boats. Distance miles. ' . -iji :l6tJ!} October y Wedrieiday,-r^\ien we arose in morning £ound diat snow had fallen during the night *, th ground was covered and it continued to snow. This deed was but poor encouragement for attacking thle rapidtl in whicfi we were certain to wade to our necks* I determined, however, if possible to make la riviere Corbeau, the highest point ever made by traderii in thei bark canoes. We embarked, and after four hours vroi became so benumbed with cold that our limbs were per| fectly useless. We put to shore on the opposite side i the river, about two^-thirds of the way up the rapids. Bui| a large fire; ^d then discovered that our boats we nearly half full of water ; both having sprung large U so as to oblige me to keep three hands bailing. My geant (Kennerman) one of the stoutest men I evier kne broke a blood-vessel and vomited nearly two quarts blood. One of my ccnporals (Bradley) also evacua nearly a pint of blood, when he attempted to void urine. These unhappy circumstances, in addition to H inability of four other men, whom we ware obliged leave on shore ; convinced me, that if I had no regardi my own health and constitution, I should have some those poor fellows, who were killing themselves 40 my orders. After we had breakfasted and refreshed selves, we went down to our boats on the rocks, whe was obliged to leave them. I then informed my inent we would return to the camp and there leave some of j party and our large boats. This information was pic and the attempt to reach the camp soon accomplished, reasons for this step have partly been already stated, necessity of unloading and refitting my boats, the be ■yy-: TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 3« id convenience of the spot for building huts, the fine pine- >es for peroques, and the quantity of game, were addi- )nal inducements. We immediately unloaded our boats secured their cargoes. In the evening I went out upon 11, but beautiful creek, which empties into the falls, the purpose of selecting pine-trees to make canoes, five deer, and killed one buck weighing 137 pounds, my leaving men at this place, and from the great quan- of game in its vicinity, I was ensured plenty of pro- kon for my return voyage. In the party left behind was hunter, to be continually employed, who would keep stock of salt provisions good. Distance 233 1-2 above the falls of St. Anthony. nth October^ Thursday. — It continued to snow. I ced out in the morning and killed four bears, and my ter three deers. Felled our trees for canoes and corn- iced working on them. 1 ^th October, Friday* — Stopped hunting and put every ^d to work. Cut 60 logs for huts and worked at the This, considering we had only two falling-axes three hatchets, was pretty good work. Cloudy, with snow. I9th October, Saturday* — Raised one of our houses, almost completed one canoe. I was employed the icipal part of this day in writing letters and making igements which I deemed necessary, in case I should ^er return. 2Qth October, 5«mi!(zy.— Continued our labour at the ises and canoes, finished my letters, &c. At night :overed the prairie, on the opposite side of the river, to )n fire j supposed to have been made by the Sauteurs. [ished much to have our situation respectable here, or )uld have sent the next day, to discover theniv n JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE i a - 21st October, Mon^^y.— -Went out hunting, but killed^ nothing, not wishing to shoot at small game. Our Iabour| went on. 22rf October, Tuejdayj^'Weat out hunting;^ Abo«^ 15 miles up the creek saw a great quantity of deer ; but,| from the dryness of the woods and the quantity of brush, only shot one through the body, which made its escape. This day my men neglected their work, which convinced me I must leave off hunting and superintend the mea Miller and myself lay out all night, in the pine woods. 23d October, Wednesday* — Raised another block, house, deposited all our property in the one already cbm pleted. Killed a number of pheasants and ducks, while visiting my canoe-makers. Sleets and snow. 24/^ October, Thursday.^-^lhe snow having &llen out or two inches thick in the night ; I salt out one hunter (Sparks) and went out myself, Bradley, my other hunter, being sick. Each of us killed two deer, one goose, and^ one pheasant. 25th October, Friday, — Sent out men with Sparks to bring in his game. None of them returned, and I supposed them to be lost in the hemlock swamps, with which th( country abounds. My interpreter, however, whom I be lieve to be a coward, insisted that they were killed by th Sauteurs^ Made arrangements for my departure. 2Gih October, Saturday.'-^hzyx^.Qhodi my canoes anii | found them very small. My hunter killed three deerj Took out Miller and remained out all night, but killed no| thmg. ' 2*1 th October 5«Mzfojr.—- Employed in preparing oui baggage to embark. 2Sth October, Monday. — My two canoes being finisli^ | ed, launched, and brought to the head of the rapids, I pu my provi^on, amoiunition, &c. on b'^ard, intending to etir| in preparing ou TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 37 )ark by day. Left them under, the charge of the senti- lel and in an hour one of them sunk, in which was the imunition and my baggage : this was occasioned by what called a wind-shock. This misfortune, and the extreme lallness of my canoes, induced me to build another. I id my cartridges spread out on blankets and large fires kade round them. At that time I was not able to ascer- lin the extent of the misfortune, the magnitude of which me can estimate, save only those in the same situation ^th ourselves, 1500 miles from civilized society ; and in iger of losing the very means of defence, nay of ex- ice. 29th October, Tuesday. — ^Felled a large pine and com- snced another canoe. I was at work at my cartridges day, but did not save five dozen out of 30, In at- ipting to dry the powder in pots, blew it up, and it had sarly blown up a tent and two or three men with it. lade a dozen new cartridges with the old wrapping-paper. 30tb October, Wednesday. — My men labored as usual. )thing extraordinary. 31 st October, Thursday. — ^Enclosed my little work Impletely with pickets. Hauled up my two boats, and Irned them over on each side of the gate-ways ; by which ieans a defence was made to the river, and had it not ;en for various political reasons, I would have laughed at le attack of 800 or 1000 savages, if all my party were Bthin. For except accidents, it would only have afforded lusement, the Indians having no idea of taking a place storm. Found myself powerfully attacked with thtf itastics of the brain, called ennui, at the mention of ihich I had hitherto scoffed j but my books being packed ), I was like a person entranced, and could easily con- nive why so many persons whc have been confined to re- bte places, acquired the habit of diinking to excess and. 58 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE jr many other vicious practices, which have been adopted i merely to pass time. 1st November y Friday. — ^Finding that my canoe would ' not be finished in two or three dayi, I concluded to take six men and go down the river about 12 miles, where we -I had remarked great sign of elk and buffalo. Arrived there about the middle of the afternoon. All turned out to hunt. None of us killed any thing but Sparks one doe: A slight snow fell. 2d November, Saturday.'— heft the camp with the fj fullest determination to kill an elk, if it were possible, before my return. I never had killed one of those animals. Took Miller, whose obliging disposition made him agree- abk in the woods. I was determined that if we came ontl the trail of elk, to follow them a day or two in order to^ kill one. This, to a person acquainted with the nature of | those Rnimals, and the extent of the prairies iii this country, would appear, what it really was, a very foolish resolution, J We soon struck where a herd of 150 had passed. Pur- sued and came in sight about 8 o'clock, when they ap. peared, at a distance, like an army of Indians moving along in single file ; a large buck, of at least four feet be- tween the horns, leading the van, and one of equal magni- tude bringing up the rear. We followed until near night, without once being able to get within point-blank shot I once made Miller fire at them with his musket, at aboui 400 yards distance : it had no other effect than to make them leave us about five miles behind on the prairie.: Passed several deer in the course of the day, which il think we could have killed, but did not fire for fear oif alarming the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter toi kill one, I shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by^ her blood, where she lay down in the snow ; yet, noti knowing how to track, we lost her. Shortly after ml TO THli SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 39 ive been adopted ; le snow; yet, )W. elk by themselves near a copse of woods. Ap- froached near them and broke the shoulder of one ; but le ran off with the other two just as I was about to fol- Saw a buck deer lying on the grass ; shot him be- d the eyes, when he fell over I walked up to him, it my foot on his horns, and examined the shot, immedi- :[y after which he snorted, bounced up, and fell five steps tm me. This I considered his last effort ; but soon er, to our utter astonishment, he jumped up and ran off. stopped frequently : we pursued him, expecting him fall every minute, by which we were led from the pur- it of the wounded elk. After being wearied out in this [successful chase^ we returned in pursuit of the wound- elk, and when we came up to the party, found him assing from the flock. Shot another in the body ; but ly hall being small, he likewise escaped^ Wounded [Other deer : when hungry, cold, and fiitigued, after hav- wounded three deer and twQ elk, were obliged to en- ip in a point of hemlock woods^ on the head of Clear The large herd of elk lay about one niile from, up, the prairie. Our want of success I ascribe, jtO; the smal)* Bs of our balls, and to our, inexperience in following the kck, after wounding them, for it is very selclom a deer ops on the spot you shoot it.;,,, aM. ■^^A^^ :: 3d November, S««Iiged to run over us> We fired at them, passing, but Without effect. Pursu^ them through the ^wamp tilj ?out 10 o'clock^ when I determine^ to attempt to make ^e river, and fpr that purpose took a due soi^th course, faased many droves of elk and buffalo, but b^g in the irer. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE middle of an immense prairie, knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded several deer, but got none, In fact, I knew I could shoot as many deer as any body ; but neither myself nor company could find one in ten, whereas one experienced hunter would get all. Near night struck a lake about five miles long and two miles wide. Saw immense droves of elk on both banks. About sun down saw a herd crossing the prairie towards us. We Bat down. Two bucks, more curious than the others, came pretty close. I struck one behind the fore shoulder: he did not go more than 20 yards before he fell and died. This was the cause of much exultation, because it fulfilled my determination, and, as we had been two days and nights without victuals, it was very acceptable. Found 6ome scrub oak. In about one mile made a fire, and with much labor gnd pains got our meat to it; the wolves feasting on one half while we were carrying away the other. We were now provisioned, but were still in want of water, the snow being all nielted. Finding my drought Very excessive in the night, I went in search of water, and was much Surprised, after having gone about a mile, to strike the Mississippi. Filled my hat and i^etumed to my companion!^-' '.T'sv ai m tpi^mutu •^ydhnuov/ r:i-ii , 4th November, Mo»foot ; a phial of whiskey, sent by the serjeant, which were very acceptable to me. They brought, also, some Icco for my lost men. We experienced difficulty in Ising the river, owing to the ice. Moved my command the post, who were again encamped out, ready to kh up the river. Set all hands to making sleds, in ;r that, the moment the river closed, I might descend^ a strong party, in search of my lost men. Issued pro- )ns, and was obliged to use six venison hams, being of a quantity of elegant hams, I had preserved, to take 1, if possible, to the general and some' other friends. the two hunters not been found, I must have become |iV(' \o hunting, in oi\ier o support my party. The ice •ran very thick. lOth November y Sunday. — Continued making sleds, news of my hunters. Ice in the river very thick and Raised my tent with puncheons, and laid a floor It. • Wth November, Monday, '^l went out hunting. -Saw two deer. Killed a remarkably large black fox. Brad- |and Miller arrived, having understood the writing on [snow, and left Sparks behind at the camp, to take care the meat. Their detention was owing to their being on the prairie the first night, and not being able to find ir deer. ■II ia;! It. ■ ''i m 3 m :;. I ;p 44 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE '12tb November, Tuesday.-— jyispztched Miller and Huddleston to the lower hunting-camp, and Bradley and Brown to hunting in the woods. Made my arrangements in camp. Thawing weather. - ' 1 3th November, Wednesday.^ -Bradley returned with a very large buck, which supplied us for the next four days. I4th November, Thursday.^^it commenced raining at four o'clock, A. M. lightning and loud thunder. I went down the river in one of my canoes, with five men, in order to bring up the meat from the lower camp ; but, after descending about 13 miles, found the river blocked up with ice. Returned about two miles, and encamped in the bottom where I had my hunting camp, on the 1st. inst. Extremely cold towards night. I5th November, Friday. — ^When we meant to embark in the morning, found the river full of ice and hardly mov- ing. Returned to camp and went out to huht, for we had no provision with us. Killed nothing but five prairie hens, which afforded us this day's subsistence : this bird I took to be the same as grouse. Expecting the ice had become hard, we attempted to cross the river, but could not. In the endeavor one man feil through. Freezing. I6th November, Saturday.— Det2.ched Corporal Meek and one private to the garrison, to order the sleds down. No success in hunting except a few fowl. I began to con- eider the life of a hunter a very slavish life, and extremely precarious as to support ; for sometimes I have myself (al- though no hunter) killed 600 weight of meat in one day j and I have hunted three days successively, without killing any thing but a few small birds, which I was obliged to do to keep my men from starving. Freezing. 1 Ith November, Sunday. — One of my men arrived ; he had attempted to make the camp before, but lost hinv self in the prairie, lay out all night, and froze his toes. He TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 45 informed us that the corporal and the men I sent with him« had their toes frost-bitten, the former very badly ; that three men were on their way down by land, the river above not being froze over. They arrived a few hours before night. Freezing. 18/i& November, Monday, — ^Took our departure down the river on the ice, our baggage on the sled. Ice very rough. Distance 12 miles. Freezing. 19/A November y Tuesday. — Arrived opposite our hunt- ing camp about noon. Had the meat, &c. moved over. They had a large quantity of meat. I went out and killed a very large buck. Thawing. SO/A November, Wednesday*— HeTpzTted to return to the stockade, part of our meat on the sled and part in the little peroque (the river being open in the middle;. Killed four deer. Thawing. Distance 5 miles. 21 J/ November, Thursday. — ^Marched in the morning. Came to a place where the river was very narrow, and the channel blocked up. Were obliged to unload our pe- roque and haul her over. The river having swelled a good deal, at this place, the ice gave way with myself and two men on it. We seized the sled that stood by us, with some little baggage on it, and by jumping over four cracks, the last two feet wid*» : providentially made our passage good, without loosing an individual thing. Encamped opposite Clear river. Killed one deer and one otter. Freezing. 22d November, Friday. — Were obliged to leave our canoe at Clear river, the river being closed. Made two trips with our sled. Killed one deer. Distance 5 miles. 23d November, Saturday. — Having seen a great deal of buffalo sign, I determined to kill one the next day (for- getting the elk chase). Encamped nearly opposite our camp of the 15th and 16th. • Thawing. Distance 4 miles. ':! i 4» JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 24//& November^ Sunday. — ^Tpok Miller and Boley and went in pursuit of buffalo. Came up with some about 10 o'clock. In the afternoon wounded one. Pursued them until night, and encamped on the side of a swamp. Thawing. 25th November, Monday. — Commenced again the pursuit of the buffalo, and continued till 1 1 o'clock, when I gave up the chase. Arrived at the camp about pun down, hungry and weary, having eat nothing since we left it. My rifle was too small a ball to kill buffalo : the balls should not be more than thirty to the pound :— an ounce ball would be still preferable, and the animal should be hunted on horse-back. I think that, in the prairies of j this country, the bow and arrow could be used to more advantage than the gun ; for you might ride immediately along side, and strike them where you pleased, leaving them to proceed after others. Thawing. 26/A November, Tuesday. — ^Proceeded up the river. The ice getting very rotten, the men fell through several times. Thawing. Distance 5 miles. 21th November, Wednesday.^^Tock one man and I marched to the post. Found all well. My hunter, Brad- ley, had killed eleven deer since my departure. Sent all the men down to help the party up. They returned ac- companied by two Indians, who informed me they were | two men of a band, who resided on Lake Superior, called j the Fols Avoins, but ^ke the language of the Chipeways. They informed me that Mr. Dickson's, and the other trading houses, were established about 60 miles below ; that there were 70 lodges of Sioux on the Mississippi. All my men arrived at the post. We brought from our| camp below the balance of 1 7 deer and two elks. 28th November, Thursday. — ^The Indians departed! much pleased with their reception. I dispatched corporal TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. A "* Meek and one, private do\frn to Dicksoni with' a letter, i vrhich would tX iea^t have the efiect of attaching the most powerful tribes in this quarter to my interest. 2i>/^ Novemlter,FruIay,»^A Slows, (the son of a war* I riot called the KiUeujl Roug^y of the Gem dfs Feuilks) and aFols.Avoin camj? tbithe post. He said that, having struck our trail JI>elow, and findilig some to be shoe-tracks, [he conceived it. to be the establishment of some traders, [took it, and came to' the post. He informed me that Mr* Dickson !had told thei Sioux >' that they might now hunt [where they pleased^as I had gone a head and would cause [the Chipeways, wherever I met them^ to treat them with [friendship ; that I had barred up the mouth of the.St. 'eters, so that no liquor could j ascend that river ; but that, if they came on the Mississippi^ they should have jrhat liquor . wanted I'^-abo, that I Was on the river id had a gr . i al of merchandize to give them in pre- sents." Tills information of Mr. Dickson to the Indiahs seemed to have self-interest and envy for its motives ; for; }y the idea of having prevented liquoi* from going up the >t; Peters, he gave;the Indians to understand that it was , regulation of my Dwp,,and .not a law of the United >ta]:&s ^ and by assuring them he would sell to them on ^he Mississippi, he drew all the Indians irom thei traders )n the St. Peters, who had adhered to the restriction of lot selling liquor, and should any of them 'be killed, the )lame would all lie on me« as he had (without iiuthdrity) lissured them they might hunt in securkyi ' I took care to rive the>young chief a full explaijation of my idea^ on the ^bove. He remained all night. Killed Jwd deer. 30t/j November, Saturday. — ^I made the two Indians ^ome small presents. They crossed the river and de- t)arted. Detached Kennerman with eleven men, to bring jp two canoes.. ... A -. 11 48 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE m 1st Decer,ib6r, Sunday. — Snowed a little in the middle of the day. Went out with my gun, but killed nothing. 2^ December, Monday.'-^pxrks arrived Srom the party below, and informed me they could not kill any gar ^ but had started up with the little peroque :— also, one Sioux, who pretended to have been sent to me, from the iem des Feuities, to inform me that the Y'jictongs and Sus- litongs (two bands of Sioux from the head of the St. 'eters and the Missouri, and the most savage of them) lad commenced ^e war-dance suid would depart in a few lys, in wliich case he conceived it would be advisable for the Fols Avoins to keep close under my ^ot^tion ; that lakiig a stroke on the Chipeways would tend to injure le gnmd object of ^ my voyage, &c. &c. Some reasons iduced me to believe he-was avsel£o?eated envoy ; how- tver^ I offered to pay hknyorniy young Sioux, who would to those bands anld carry my word. He pronused to ie known my wishes upon his return. My men r^urned ^4he<«vaung without my canoei'hamg been so unfortu- ite as to split her in capryio^ lier over the rough hiHy in the ripples below. So many disappointments alntoolt wearied out my p^Sdence ; but, notwithstanding, I intended embaoic by land and water in a fevk days. Vi Deeember^ Saturdap'-^An Indian (by the name ChienBlandMi) of the Fols Avoin tribe, with his family id cotmecdpns, arrived and encamped near the, stockade, [e informed me that he teid wintered here for ten years ist, that the sugar camp near the stockade was where ^e made sugar. He appeared to be an inteibgent man. visited his camp in the afternoon, and found him seated midst bis children and grandchildren, amounting }fi all to ;n. His wife, although of an advanced age, was suck- ig two children, that appeared lo be about two years old. should have taken them to be twins, had not one been mch fairer than the other. Upon enquiry, however, I >und that the fairest was the daughter of an Englishman, one of tlie Indian's daughters, lately deceased ; ^nce '1 ' t % \[ ii IS i 11 J-, ■/■A 50 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ii.': i ,'!•! whose death the grandmother had taken it to the breast His lodge was made of rushes {Waited into mats, afi»r the manner of the Illinois. I was obliged to give some meat to all the Indians who arrived at the stockade, at the sum time explaining our situation. The Chien Blanche assured me i^. '" ould be repaid with interest in the course of the winte jrt that at that time he was \^lthout any thing to eat. £n fact, our hunters having killed nothing for several| days, we ^^e oiurselves on short allowance. ^b December^ Sunday.'^Aa invalid Sioux arrivedl with information, that the bands of the Sussitongs andl Yanctongs had actually determined to make war on thel Chipeways, and that they had formed a party of 150 orl 160 men, )>ut that part of the Sussitongs had refused tcl go to the war, and would be here on a visit to me die nextl day. This occasi(»ied me to delay crossing the river im{ mediately, on my voyage taLake Sang Sue, as it was pofrl fiible that, by having, a con^ence with them, I might stiSl prevent the stroke intended to be made against the Chip^| ways. > / 9tk December^ Monday^-^Prepsired to embark. Exl pectii^g the Sioux, I had two large kettles of soup model for them. Had a shooting-match with four prizes. The! Sioux did not arrive, and we eat the soup ourselves.! Crossed the river and encamped above the rapids. Wiju!| changed and it grew cold. 10th December, Ttiesday.'-^Aher arranging our sleds'l and pcroque commenced our march, llie sleds on th(| prairie and the peroque towed by three men* Found it| extremely difficult to get along, the snow being melted i the prairie in spots. The men who had the canoe wercl • My slcdg were such as arc frequently «ecn about fanners' yards, calculiitv'i| to hold two barrels or 400 weight, in which two men were geared abreast. m TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 8\ to wade and drag her over the rocks in many [places. Shot the only deer I saw. It fell three times, and ir made its escape. This was a great disappointment, >r upon the game we took now we depended for our sub- tence. This evening disclosed to my men the real dan- ^er they had to encounter. Distance 5 miles. ll/i& December, Wednejday»-^lt having thawed aU light, the snow had almost melted from the prairie. I /alked on until 10 o'clock, and made a fire. I then went )ack wO look for the peroque, and at & remarkable rapid in the river, oppc Jte a high piny island, made a fire and dted for them to come up, when we partly unloaded. I returned and met the sleds. When we arrived at the >Iace pitched on for our camp, sent the men down to isist the peroque. In the afternoon, from ''bout three >'clock, we heard the report of not less tli 50 guns -head, and after dusk much shooting on the prairie. I was ^t a loss to know who they could be, unless they were Sau^> keaux, and what could be their object, in shooting after irk. Kept a good look out. Distance 5 miles. 12th December, Thursday.-^The snow having almost itirely left the prairie, we were obliged to take on but one lied at a time and treble man it. In the morning my 'n- >rpreter came to me with quite a mardal air, and request- ed that he might be allowed to go ahead to discover what idians we heard fire last evening. I gave hkn permission id away he went. Shortly after, I went out with cor- ^oral Bradley and a private, and in about an hour over- )k my partizan, on a bottom close to the river ; he was punting racoons, and had caught five. We left him, and ter choosing an oicampment, and sending the private ^ack, to conduct the party to it, anxious to discover the idians, the corporal and myself marched on. We scended the river about eight miles ; saw no Indians ; lut discovered that the river was frozen over^ which : ■•! 'i, JOURhfAL OF A VOYAGE 'i'-i! ! pleased mt more, for we would now be enabled to walk three times our usual distance in a day. I was much sur- prised that we saw no Indians. After our return to the! camp, was told that a Fols Avoin Indian had met my par. ty and infoimed them, that m the rear of the hills, that| bordered the prairie, there were small lakes which by por-i tages communicated with Lake Superior. That in onel days march, on that course, we would find English trad| ing houses. That the Chipeways were there hunting.! That the Sioux who had visited my camp on the 29th ultl on hearing the firing, had prudently returned, with hiil companions, to the west side of the Mississippi, agreeabljl to my advice. How persons unacquainted with the search>| ing spirit of trade, and the enterprize of the people the north west $ would be surprized to find ^ople whc| had penetrated from Lake Superior, to laker little mor than marshes. And it likewise points out the difficulty putting a barrier on then* trade. All my sleds and peroque did not get i^ until half past 10 o'clock. Saw a vc beautiful fox, red back, white tail and breast. My inter! preter called them Reynard d' Argent. I had no opporl tonity of shooting him. Killed six racoons and one por| cupine* Fine day. Distance 7 miles. ISth December, Friday. -^^ilLuiQ double trips. Er bailed at the upper end of the ripples. It commence snowing at S o'clock. Bradley killed one deer, anotl man killed one racoon. Storm continued until next mor ing. Distance 5 miles. l^th December, Saturday, -^-We dq)arted from on encampment at the usual hour, but had not advanced on mile, when the foremost sled, which happened unfbr nately to carry my baggage and ammunition, fell into river. We were all in the river up to our middles, ini covering the things. Halted and made a fire. Came i to where the river was frozen over. Stopped and TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 5S iped on the west shore, in a pine wood. Upon exsu ig my things, found all my baggage wet and some of ly books materially injured ; but a still greater injury was^ lat all my cartridges, and four poundfi of double battle Sussex powder which I had brought for my own use, waf sstroyed. Fortunately my kegs of powder were preserved ry, and some bottles of common glazed powder, which rere §o tightly corked, as not to adrmt water. Had this ^ot been the case, my voyage must necessarily have been irmo3itedy for we could not have subsisted without am- lunition. During the time of our misfortune, two Fols Lvoin Indians came to us, one of whom was at my stocks le, on the 29th ult. in company with the Sioux. I signified them by signs the place of our intended encampment, invited them to come and encamp with us. They left le and both arrived at my camp in the evening, having ich a deer which they presented me ; I gave them my ^anoe, to keep until spring ; and in the morning at part- ig made them a small present. Sat up until 3 o'clock M. drying and assorting my ammunition, ba jtrage, &c. lilled two deer. Distance 4 miles. I5th December Sunday, — Remained at our camp mak« ig sleds. Killed two deer. Crossed and recrossed seve- Indian trails in the woods. 16th December, Monday.^^Kemslned at the same ^amp. Employed as yesterday. Killed three deer. I rounded a buffalo in the shoulder, and by a kar race ^vertook him in the prairie and gave him another shot $ ^ut it being near night leit him till morning. ntb December, Tuesday.-^Depzrted from our agree- able encampment at an early hour. Found our sleds to very heavily loaded. Broke one sled runner, and were Retained by other circumstances. Bradley, Rosseau (the iterpreter) and myself killed four deer and wounded five Ithers. Having eleven on hand already, I found it neces- 1 « - y I M I ' \ <• ■ H|f'|> t: 1 r^'^^ 1 1 '^ i| 1 III 1 m ! 1 ■ ^' ill '■!. 11 ii ; f r ■ '! * !,- ;i 1 y -J < i li 1 1 1 III ] 1 1 i Ti Wlilj ! 1 ' t ^^H '' m ^^^^'H'^ I^^Hj ^iiij|li|ii i ■m JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE sary to leave behind some of my other loading. At night we dug a hole, four feet deep, three feet wide, and dx feet long, in which we put one barrel of pork and one barrel of flour, after wrapping them up m seven deer skins, to preserve them from the damp, we then filled I up the hole, and built our fire immediately over it. 9k.t rii8th December, Tbunday.-^'Did nnK get off until 8| o'clock, from the delay in bringing in our meat. Ic^ tole* rably good. Began to see the Chipeway's encampments | very frequently, but had not entirely left the Siodx coun* try on the western shore. Beautiful i»ne ridges. »» • ^PlOfA December y Thursday,— 'Were obligal to take to I the prairie, from the rivers being open ; but the snow was! frozen hard and the sleds did not sink deep^ so that \re| made a pretty good days journey. Killed one deer and! two otters. River still open. Distance 10 miles. 20th December, Friday. — ^Travelled part of the dayl on tie pnurie and on the ice. Killed one deer. HeardI three reports of guns just at sun set from the opposit side of the river. Deposited one barrel of flour. Dis>| tance 7 miles. 2 1st December, Saturday. — ^Bradley and myself wentl on ahead, and overtook my interpreter, who had left campl very early in hopes that he would be able to see the riverl De Corbeau, where h6 had twice wintered. He was im.[ mediately opposite to a large island, which he supposed to| have great resemblance to an island, opposite the mouth < the above river ; but finally he concluded, it wad not thel island, and returned to camj». But this was actually the! river, as we discovered when we got to the head of thej island, from which we could see the river's entrance....! This fact exposes the ignorance and inattention of the! French and traders, and with the exception of a few intell ligent men, what little confidence is to be placed on theirl information. We ascended the Mississippi, about five| TO THE SOURCES OF THi: MISSISSIPPI. U ss sbove the confluence ; found h not froaen ; but in ly places, not more than one hundred yards over; ild and still. Indeed all the appearance of a small river ^f a low country. Returned and found my party, hav* ig broke sleds, &c. had only made good 3 miles, while had marched S5. 22d December^ Sunday, — Killed three deer. Owing the many difficult places we had to pass, made but 4 1-2 miles. ^3d December^ Monday — ^Never did I undergo more itigue, in performing the duties of hunter, spy, guide, )mmanding officer, &c. Sometimes in front ; sometimes the rear ; frequently in advance of my party 10 or \5 miles ; that at night I was scarcely able to make my >tes intelligible. Killed two racoons. From our sleds freaking down, and having to make so many portages on le road, made but 4 miles. 24/^ December, Tuesday. — ^Took the latitude of the He De Corbeau, and found it to be in 45° 49' 50''' N. le Mississippi becomes very narrow above the river De porbeau, and as if it were the forks, changes its direction l^cmi hard W. to N. E. generally. Distance 10 1-2 miles. 2Stb December, Wednesday.'^Mzrched and encamped 1 1 o'clock. Gave out two pounds of extra meat, two )unds of extra flour, one gill of whiskey, and some to- icco per man ; this, in order to distinguish Christmas ly. Distance 3 miles. 26tb December, Thursday. — Broke four sleds ; broke ^to the river four times, and had four carrying places, ice we left the river De Corbeau. The timber was all pllow and pitch pine, of which there were scarcely any ?low. Distance 3 miles. 27/A December, Friday. — After two carrying places, arrived where the river was completsly closed with ice j ter which we proceeded with some degree of speed and i1 'i : «M JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE II" ■■ ■;■. I ' ill ease. Killed one bear. The country on both ddes, pttl sented a dreary and barren prospect of high rocks, vnAf dead pine timber. Snow. Distance 10 miles. 2Sth December^ Saturday.'-^Two sleds fell througll ^ ice. In the morning passed a very poor country ; knobs on each side ; but towards evening the botton became largo*, and the pine ridges better timbered. Bi ley and myself marched 10 miles beyond the sleds. Kille one deer. Distance 12 miles. 29tb December, Strnday-^-'Cold windy day. Met wid 00 material interruptions ; passed some rapids. , The snc blew from the woods on to the river. The country ful of small lakes, some 9 miles in circumference. Distano 21 miles. SOth December, Monday.-^The snow having drifte on the ice, retarded tile sleds^ Numerous small lakes pine ridges continued. A new species of pine, called French Sap pine. Killed one otter. Distance 12 miles.! 3lst December, Tuesday.'— F2iSS€d Pine river about l| o'clock. At its mouth there was a Chipeway's enca ment of fifteen lodges, this had been occupied in summer, but ift now vacant. By the significadons of die{ marks, we understood, that they had marched a party i 50 warriors against the Sieux ; and had killed four m^ and four women, which were represented by images ed out of pine or cedar. The four men pamted and in the ground to the middle, leaving above ground tho parts which are generally concealed ; by their sides wa four painted poles, sharpened at the end to represent womw. Near this were poles with deer skins, plumej silk handkerchiefs, &c. Also a circular hoop of ce with something attached^ representing a scalp. Nd each lodge they had holes dug in the ground, and bougll ready to cover them, as a retreat for their women children if attacked by the Sioux, &c. Hi TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 57 li/ Jamary 1806, Wednesday. — ^Passed six very ele- mt bark canoes, on the bank of the river, which had en laid up by the Chipeways ; also a camp which we mcdved to have been e.acuated about ten dayn. My iterpreter came after me in a great hurry, conjuring me >t to go so far ahead, and assured me that the Chipeways, icountering me without an interpreter, party, or flag^ )uld certainly kill me^ But, notwithstanding this, I (ent on several miles farther than usual, in order to ike any discoveries that were to be made ; conceiving ^e savages not so barbarous or ferocious, as to fire )n ro men, (I had one with me) who were apparently coming to their country, trusting to their generosity ; and know- that if we met only two or three we were equal to |em, I, having my gun and pistols, and he his buck W. Made some extra presents for new years day. 2d January^ Thursday — ^Fine warm day. Discover- fresh sign of Indians. Just as we were encamping at rht, my sentinel informed us, that some Indians were [ming full speed upon our trail or track. I ordered my sn to stand by their guns carefully. They were imme- ^ely at my camp, and saluted the flag by a discharge of Pee pieces; when four Chipeways, one Englishman, a Frenchman of the N. W. company presented them- ives. They informed us that some women having dis- ^ered our trail gave the alarm, and not knowing, ■>•: it |s their enemies, they had departed to make a discovery, ley had heard of us and revered our flag. Mr. Grant, Englishman, had only arrived the day bofbre from te De Sable ; from which he marched, in one day and kalf. I presented the Indians with half a deer, which received thankfully, for they had discovered our fires le days ago, and believing it to be the Sioux, they 2d not leave their camp. They returned, but Mr. ant remained all night. H \!*l ' !• ';■ .'4; 5«. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 3d January, Friday. — My party inarched early, but . I returned with Mr. Grant to his establishment on the Red Cedar Lake, havmg gne corporal with me. When we came in sight of his house, I observed the flag of Great Britain flying. T felt indignant, and cannot say what my feelings would have excited me to, had he not informed me, that it belonged to the Indians. This was not much more agreeable to me. After explaining to a Chipeway warrior (called Curly Head) the object of my voyage, and receiving his answer, that he would remain tranquil, until my return. We eat a good breakfast for the country, de- parted and overtook my sleds, just at dusk. Killed one porcupine. Distance 16 miles. 4/A January, Saturday. — ^We made twenty eight | points in the river j broad, good bottom, and of the usual j timber. In the night I was awakened by the cry of the| sentinel, calling repeatedly to the men ; at length he voci- ferated, " G — d d — n your souls, will you let the lieut-l enant be burned to death?" This immediately aroused me, at first I seized my arms, but looking round, I saw my tents in flames. The men flew to my assistance, andl we tore them down, but not until they were entirely ruin- ed. This, with the loss of my leggins, mockinsons, socks,! &c. which I had hung' up to dry, was no trivial misforl tune, in such a country, and on such a voyage. But ll had reason to thank God ihdt the powder, three small casks of which I had in my tent did not take fire, if itl had, I must certainly have lost all my baggage, if not myl life. Sth January, Sunday.-^^Mr. Grant promised to over I take me yesterday, but has not yet arrived. I conceived! it would be necessary to attend his motions, with carefiil| observation. Distance 27 miles. 6th January, Mondhy. — Bradley and myself walkedl up 31 points, in hopes to discover Lake De Sable ; buj TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 5» finding a near cut of 20 yards for ten nules, and being fearful the sleds would miss it, we returned 23 points be- fore we found our camp. They had made only eight points. Met two Frenchmen of the N. W. company with about 180 pounds on each of their backs, with rackets on 'f they informed me that Mr. Grant had gone on with the Frenchman. Snow fell all day, and was diree feet deep. Spent a miserable night. 7tb January y Tuesday, — Made but 1 1 miles, and then were obliged to send a-head and make fires every 3 miles ; notwithstanding which, the cold was so intense, that some of the men had their noses, others their fingers, and others their toes irozen, before they felt the cold sen- sibly. Very severe days march. , ';;;, l^th January, W^^««^i(zy.— Conceiving I was at no great distance from Sandy Lake, I left my sleds, and with corporal Bradley, took my departure for that place, I intending to send him back the same evening. We walki* I ed on very briskly imtil near night, when we met a young I Indian, one of those who had visited my camp near Red Cedar Lake. I endeavored to explain to him, that it was my wish to go to Lake De Sable that evening. He re- turned with me, until we came to a trail that led across the woods, this he dgnified was a near course. I went [this course with him, and shortly after found myself at a Chipeway encampment, to which I believe the friendly I savage had enticed me with an expectation that I would tarry all night, knowing that it was too late for us to make the lake in good season. But upon our refusing to stay, he [put us in the right road. We arrived at the place where [the track left the Mississippi, at dusk, when we traversed labout two leagues of a- wilderness, without any very great iifficulty, and at length struck the shore of Lake De Jable, over a branch of which our course lay. The snow laving covered the trail made by the Frenchmen who had y^ ' ■-■' " 11} ' 5 > . f 60 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, ifv passed! before with the rackets, I was fearful of lobsingl ourselves on the lake ; the consequence of which caki onlyl be conceived by those who have been exposed cwi a| lake, or naked plain, a dreary night of January, in latil tude 47** and the thermometer below O. Thinking thatj we could observe, the bank of the other shore, we kep a straight course, and sometime after discovered lights] and on our arrival were not a little surprised to find ; large stockade. The gate being open, we entered anil| proceeded to the quarters of Mr. Grant, where we wer treated with the utmost hospitality. Qth January i TA«rj MS rackets on, and cotild not have got out, without assis- mce. nth January y &z/(^r J!iz/»— Remained all day within luarters. }2tb Januryy S««<%.— i-Went put ^ met my men )ut 16 miles, A tree had fallen on one of them and ^urt him very much, which induced me to di$rps§ a sled id put the loading on the others. ' : 1 Sth January y Monday, — ^After encountering niuch ifficulty, we arrived at the establishment of the N. W. )mpany, on Lake De Sable, a little before night. The ;e being very bad on the Lake River, owing to the many )rings and marshes, one sled fell through. My men had excellent room furnished them, and were presented irith potatoes and fille.** Mr. Grant had gone to an In- |ian lodge to receive his credits. \4tth January, Tuesday » — Crossed the lake to the korth side, that I might take an observation ; found the it. 46° 9' 2Qf' N. Surveyed that part of the lake. Mr. rrant returned from the Indian lodges. They brought a lantity of furs and eleven beaver carcases. \5th January, Wednesday* — ^Mr. Grant and myself lade the toiir of the lake, with two men, whom I had, >r attendants. Found it to be much larger, than could imagmed at a view. My men sawed stocks for the ^ds, which I found it necessary to construct after the lanner of the country. On our march, met an Indian >ming into the fort ; his countenance expressed no little stonishment, when told who I was and from whence I J for the people in this country themselves acknow- ^dge, that the savages hold in greater veneration, the Linericans, than any other white people. They say of I r^'- ^5 I i\ 1 \ I i M A cant term fur a dram of spirits. 63 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE US. when alluding to warlike atchievements, that ** we <* are neither Frenchmen nor Englishmen, but white In«| " dians." 1 6th January, Tbursday.'-^ljaid down Lake De Sable, I See, A young Indian whom I had engaged, to go as a guide to Lake S ig Sue, arrived from the woods. 17 th Janunry^ FWi«y.— Employed in makmg sleds,* I (or traineau de glace) after the manner of the country.! Two other Lidians, arrived from the woods. Engaged ii| writing. \%th January, Saturday.'-^Busy in preparing my bag'j gage, &c. for my departure for Leech Lake, Reading, &c| 19th January, Sunday,'—Emp\oyed as yesterday...,! Two m«i of the N. W. company arrived from the Fondl du Lac Superior with letters; one of which was froin! their establishment, in Athapuscow, and had been since lastl May, on the route. While at this post I eat roasted bea j vers, dressed in every respect, as a pig is usually dressedl with us ; it was excellent. I could not discern the leasJ taste of Des Bois. I also eat boiled moose's head, whicii| when well boiled, I consider equal to the tail of the bea ver ; in taste and substance they are much alike. 20th January, Monday, — ^The men, with the sledsJ took their departure about 2 o'clock. Shortly after I folj lowed them. We encamped at the portage between tbef Mississippi and Leech Lake River. Snow fell in m night. 2lst January, Tuesday. — Snowed in the morning, buJ crossed about 9 o'clock. I had gone on a few pointsj when I was overtaken by Mr. Grant, who informed ma that the sleds could not get along, in consequence of wa] ter being on the ice j "he sent his men forward ; we re * Thoee sleds tvrc made of a single plank turned up at ohe end like a iidd |le«d, and the baggage is lashed on in ba;^s aiyl wcks. TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. at otic end like a fidil led and met the sleds which had scarcely advanced one lile. We unloaded them, sent eight men back to the )st, with whatever might be denominated extra-articles ; It in the hurry sent my salt and ink. Mr. Grant en- jped with me and marched early in the morning. 22d January, Wednesday, — ^Made a pretty good days ^umey. My Indian came up about noon. Distance 20 iiles. 23d January Thursday, — ^Marched about 18 miles, porgot my thermometer, having hung it on a tree. Sent \o\tj back five miles for it. My young Indian and my- ;lf killed e^ht partridges ; took him to live whh me. 24//& January, Friday, — At our encampment this |ight, Mr. Gnint had encamped on the night of the ime day he left me ; it was three days march for us. In le evening the father of his girl, camd to my camp and ^aid all night ; he appeared very friendly, and was very >mmunicative, but having no interpreter, we made but ttle progress in conversation. It was late before the men ime up. 25th January, Saturday. — ^Travelled almost all day trough the lands, and found them much better than usual. )ley lost the Sioux pipe stem, v/hich I carried along, for *e purpose of making peace with the Chipeways ; I sent im back for it, he did not return until 1 1 o'clock at night. was very warm ; thawing all day. Distance 44 points. 2Qth January, Sunday. — I left my party, in order to roceed to a house (or lodge) of Mr. Grants, on the Mis- Issippi, where he was to tarry until I overtook him. Took [ith me my Indian, Boley, and some trifling provision j |e Indian and myself marched so fast, that we left Boley the route, about 8 miles from the lodge. Met Mr. [rant*s men, on their return to Lake De Sable, having tracuated the house this morning, and Mr. Grant having irched for Leech Lake. The Indian and I arrived be- *m ' t* |.-^i I r f'^n h, ' ) liii '! 'Illi ! 64 •JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE fore sun down. Passed the night very uncomfortably, having nothing to eat, not much wood, nor any blankets,] The Indian slept soui\d. I cursed his insensibility, beinjj obliged to content myself over a few coals aU night. ley did not arrive. In the night the Lidiae mentioxie something about his son, &c. 21 th January g Monday. — My Indian rose e.';riy, ten* ded his mockinsons, then expressed by si..: as somethiiijg about his son and the Frenchuian we met yesterday. Con| ceiving that he wished to send some message to his familv| I suffered him to depart. After his departure 1 feil xt. ciiniu of si^litude, although he truly was no c niipim?|. B';ky anived about 10 o'clock. He said that he had i(^' lowcJ lis until soiiie time in the night, when believing thai he coiU J not overtake us, he stopt and made a fire, bij having no axe to cut wood, he was near freezing. He mcj the Indians, who made him signs to go on. I spent day in putting my gun in order, mending my mockjnsoii! &c. Provided plenty of wood, still found it cold, witj but one blanket. I can only account for the gentlemen i the N. W. company, contenting themselves in this wildej ness for 10, 15, and some of them for 20 years, by ti) attachment they contract for the Indian women. It ai pears to me, that the wealth of nations would not indue] me to remain secluded from the society of civilized ma kind, surrounded by a savage and unproductive wiidei ness, without books or other sources of intellectual joyment, or being blessed with the cultivated and feeli mind, of a civilized fair. 2Sth January, Tuesday, — ^Left our encampment atl good hour ; unable to find any trail, passed through one[ the most dismal cypress swamps I ever saw, and strua the Mississippi at a small lake. Observed Mr. Granfl tracks going through it ; found his mark of a cut o| (agreed on between us) took it, and proceeded very vvel TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. (1$ itil we came to a small lake, where the trail was entirely lid ; but after some search on the other aide, found it ; len we passed through a dismal swamp, on the other ie of which, found a large lake ; at which I was entirely a loss ; no trail to be seen. Struck for a point about 3 )(^Ies, where we found a Chipeway lodge of one man, his fe, and five children, and one old woman. They re- ived us with every mark, that distinguished their barba- such as setting their dogs on ours, trying to thrust ?ir hands into our pockets, &c. but we convinced them It we were not afraid, and let them know, we were lewockomen; (Americans) when they used us more Hlly. After we had arranged a camp, as well as pqs- He, I went into the lodge ; they presented me with a ite of dried meat. I ordered Miller to bring about two is of liquor, which made us all good friends. The old law gave me more meat, and offered me tobacco, which using, I did not take. I gave her an order upon my )oral, for one knife and half a carrot of tobacco..,, iven clothes the lillies and feeds the raven, and the same lighty Providence protects and preserves these cre^-^ es. After I had gone out to my fire, the old man cam^ and proposed to trade beaver skins, for whiskey* iting with a refusal, he left me i when presently th^ woman came out with a beaver skin, she also being ised, he again returned to the charge, with a quantity |dried meat, (this or any other I should have been glad lave had) when I gave him a peremptory refusal ; then further application ceased. It really appeared, that one quart of whiskey, I might have bought all they l:e possessed of. Night remarkably cold, was obliged ^it up nearly the whole of it. Suffered much with cold from want of sleep. Sltt January, Friday. — Took my clothes into the lan*s lodge to dress, and was received very coolly, but ml i V 1 ' -I -■, J A'-' ^:i ■i i ■•'!, i ■ ill 6& .I'i JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ' ( ' ; ( :i t il^: by giving him a dram (unasked) and his wife a little salt, I received from them directions^ for my route. Passed the lake or morass, and opened on meadows, (through which the Mississippi winds its course) of nearly 15 miles long.! Took a straight course through them, to the head ; whenl l found we had missed the liver ; made a turn of about! two miles, and regained it. Passed a fork which I s\xp.\ posed to be Lake Winipie, making the course N. W. th^ branch we took was on Leech Lake branch, cofurse S. Wj and W; Passed a very large meadow or prairie, cburs west^, the Mississippi only fifteen yards wide. Encampe about one mile below the traverse of the meadow. Sa\f a very large animal, which, from its leaps, I supposed toi have been a panther j but if so, it was twice as large those on the lower Mississippi. He evinced some dispo sition to approach. I lay down (Miller being in the rear] in order to entice him to come near, but he would no Thefiight remarkably cold. Some spirits, which I ha| in a small keg, congealed to the consistency of honey. Mv,i. ist February y Saturday, — Left our camp pretty earl)] Passed a continued train of prairie, and arrived at La La Sang Sue, at half past two o'clock. I will not atteni[| to describe my feelings, on the accomi; iishment of nil voyagcy for this is the main source of the Mississipfj The Lake Winipie branch is navigable, from thence i R'ed Gec'ar lake, for the distance of five leagues, which! the extremity of the navigation. Crossed the lake miles to the establishment of the N. W. company ; whei we arrived, about 3 o'clock ; found all the gates lockei but upon knocking were admitted, and received inarked attention and hospitality by Mr. Hugh M*Gilfl Had a good dish of coffee, biscuit, butter, and cheese fj supper. . : :; n :ca< *ld February, Sunday. — Remained all day witl doors. In the evening sent an invitation to Mr. AndJ ^iiiii;': TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. €7 >n, who was an agent of Dickson, and also for some >ung Indians, at his house, to come over and breakfast the mormng. n 3d February, Monday.-^Spent the day in reading folney's Egypt j proposing some queries to ^ Ir. Ander- I, and preparing my young man to return, with a sup- of provisions, to my party. u 4tb February, Tuesday. — Miller departed this moinv Mr. Anderson returned to his quarters. My legs id ancles were so much swelled, that I was not s^le to »ar my own clothes and was obliged to borrow some from M'GilUs. 5ih February, Wednesday.-^One of Mr. M'Gillis's srks had been sent to some Indian lodges, and expected return in four days, but had now been absent nine. fr. Grant was despatched, in order to find out what had bcome of him. 6th February, Tkursday.-^^My men arrived at the fort )ut four o'clock. Mr. M'Gillis asked, if i had any Ijectionsto his hoisting their flag, in compliment to ours. lade none, as I had not yet explained to him my ideas. making a traverse of the lake, some of my men had ^ir ears, some their noses, and others their chins frozen. '7th February, Friday. — Remained within doors, my lbs being still very much swelled. Addressed a letter Mr. M*Gillis on the subject of the N. W. company. ide in this quarter.* "^^h February, Saturday. — Took the latitude and found io be 47° l& \3\ Shot with our rifles. 9th February, Sunday. — ^Mr. M*Gil!is and myself Jd a visit to Mr. Anderson, an agent of Mr. Dickson, the Lower Mississippi, who resided at the west end of lake. Found him elegibly situated as to trade, but JiJcB .hi?-} Sa? appendix to part I. [No. s-"] pagc 141. > ii'O'i Us m\ . Iff 4^ Wl \ \' W "" Mk w^ 1 ^• 1 'y; t * * ■ ?'■■'• iMk rH 1^ ^ 'I # 0S JOURNAL OF A VOYAGK r ' I ■Hv-l his houses bud. I rode ii. ft cariole, for one person, cog wructed in the following manner : Boards plained smoot turnel up in front about two feet, coming to a point j •bout 2 1-2 feet wide behind ^ on which is hxed a bo^ covered with dressed skins painted ; this box is open the top, but covered in front about two thirds of th length. Tho horse is fastened between the shafts. Tb rider wraps himself up in a bulFalo robe, sits flat doA having a cushion to lean his back against. Thus accoei tred with a fur czp. Sec, he may bid defiance to the wis and weather. Upon our return, we found that some ( the Indians, had already returned from the hunting campsj also Monsieur Roussund, the gentleman supposed to haj hditn killed by the Indians. His arrival with Mr. Gi diflfused a general satisfaction through the fort. lOtb February, Monday. — Hoisted the American l in the fort. The English yacht still flying at the top the flag staff, I directed the Indians and my riflemen j shoot at ky who soon broke the iron pin to which it fastened, and brought it to the ground. Reading She) stone, &c. 1 J tb February^ Tuesday. — The Sweet, Buck, Buii^ &c. arrived, all chiefs of note, but the former in partid lar, a venerable old man. From him I learnt, thiit Sioux occupied this ground when (to use his own pha . *« He was a made man, and began to hunt ; that theyi •* cupied it the year that the French missionaries were I ** led, at the river Pacagama." The Indians flocked i 12tb February, Wednesday. — Bradley and myself ^ Mr. M'Gillis and two of his men, left Leech Lake at| o*clock, and arrived at the house at Red Cedar Lake, sunset ; a distance of 30 miles. My ancles were vej much swelled, and I was very lame. From the ent of the Mississippi to the streight is called six miles, a soui west course. From thence to the south end, South : S' I TO THE SX)URCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. ey It 4 utiles. The Yuy at the efitrance, extends nearly £. id W. six miles. About two and a b from the north le to a large point. This may becalled the upper source the Mississippi, being 15 miles above Little Lake Wi- )ie; and the extent of canoe navigation only two Igues, to some of the Hudson's Bay waters. IStb February y Thunday.'^Vfere favored with a mtilul day. look the latitude, and found it to be 47* i' 40'^ N. At this place it was, Mr. Thompson made observations m 1798, from which he determined that source of the Mississipr i was in 47° 38'. I walked >ut 3 miles back in the country, at two thirds water. le of our men marched to Lake Winepie and returned one o'clock, for the stem of the Sweet's pipe, a mat- of more consequence in his affairs, with the Sioux, m the diploma of many an ambassador. We feasted white fish, roasted m regret the noble confidence placed in me ; for I lid have protected their lives with my own. ITie lux is brother to the Flat Mouth. Gave my new soU trs a dance, and a small dram. They attempted to get >re liquor, but a firm and peromptory denial, convinc- them, I was not to be trifled with. 17 th February J Monday. — The chief of the land )ught in his flag, and delivered it up. Made arrange- ^nts to march my party the next day. Instructed the reet, how to send the parole to the Indians of Red ?r, &c. Put my men through the manual, and fired Hr blank rounds, all of which, not a little, astonished Indians. I was obliged to give my two new soldiers, ph a blanket, pair of leggins, scissors, and looking glass. 1 8//^ February, Tuesday. -^We marched for Red Ce- Lake about 1 1 o'clock, with a guide, provided for me |Mr. M^Gillis ; were all provided with snow shoes ; rched oflF, amidst the acclamations and shouts of the lians, who generally had remained, too see us take our )arture. Mr. Anderson promised to come on with let- rs ; he arrived about 12 o'clock, and remained all night. concluded to go down with me, to see Mr. Dickson. 19th February, Wednesday. — Bradley, Mr. L'Rone, two young Indians and myself, left Mr. M*GilIis*s at o'clock ; crossed Leech Lake in a S. £. direction 24 es. Mr. M*Gillis's hospitality deserves to be particu- ly noticed j he presented me with his dogs and cariole, ued in this country at two hundred dollars ; one of the ;s broke out of his harness, and we were not able du*. 72 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ', . >i Rj J ;;i ::« :( ■! I M. ring that day to catch him again ; and the other poor feij bw, was obliged to pull the whole load, at least 15o| pounds. This days march was from lake to lake. 20tb February, Thursday,-^} allowed my men tol march at least three hours before me, notwithstandin^l which, as it was cold and the road good, my sleigh brought me ahead of all by one o'clock. Halted for ail encampment at half past two o'clock. Our courses thi!| day, were first S. E. six miles, then S. eighteen miles;' almost all the way over lakes ; some of which were m miles across. Encamped on the bank of a lake, calldl Sandy Lake. Indians were out hunting. . . 2\st February, Friday. — -Travelled this day, genErallij south. Passed but two lakes ; Sandy Lake, which is an oblong form N. and S. 4 miles, and one other ana one. The Indians, at the instigation of Mr. L'Rone, ap plied for him to accompany us. I consented that he shoulij go as far as Red Cedar Lake. I then wrote a note M*Gillis upon the occasion. After Reale had departei with it, L*Rone disclosed to me, that it was his vish, desert the N. W. company entirely, and accompany me| To have countenanced for a moment, any thing of tli kind, I conceived would have been inconsistent with eve principle of honor ; I therefore obliged him to return in mediately. We then had no guide, our Indians not knowj ing the road. Our course through woods and bad bru 15 miles. 22d February, Saturday. — Our course a little to south of east, through woods not very thick. Arrived ; White Fish Lake at 11 o'clock, and took an observatioii| My party crossed the lake and encamped between lakes. This may be called the source of Pine river, this place has been one of the N. W. company's establi^ ments ; at the N. E. and S. side. It was a square stockade] of about 50 feet ; but at this time nearly all consumed I fire. Also one standing over the point on the east side] TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 73 23d February, Sunday. — iJly two Indians, Boley and lyself, with my sleigh and dogs left the party, under an lea, that we should make Red Cedar Lake. We march- hard all day, without arriving at the Mississippi. Our )urse was nearly due east, until near night, ;when We langed more south. Took ho provision nor bedding. ly Indians killed fifteen partridges, some nearly black, *th a red mark over their eyes, called the Savanna par- idge. Were overtaken about noon by two of Mr. An- srson's mefn, named Brurie and , Mr. Anderson fmself not being able to come. Distance 30 miles.' '*^^" 24/^ February, Monday.-— We started early, and af- ' passing over one of the worst roads in the world j fbvttid irselves on a lake, about 3 o*clock ; took its outlet and ick the Mississippi, about one mile below the canoes ?ntioneci on the first January, by which I kii6w where were. Ascended the Mississippi about four miles, kd encamped on the west side. Our general course this ly, was nearly south, when it should have been S. E; ly young warriors were still in good heart ; singing and jewing every wish to keep me so. The pressure of my :ket strings brought the blood through my socks and kkinsoiis, from which the pain I marched in maybe bgined. .v^ .^ui ^SthTebruary, Tuesday- — ^We marched and ai-rived [the Cedar Lake before noon ; found Mr. Grant and De feche (chief of Saijdy Lake) at the house. This gave much pleasure, for I conceive Mr. Grant to be a gen- \an of as much candor, as any with whom I had made acquaintance in this quarter, and the chief (De Breche) reputed to be a man of better information, than any of Sauteurs. 2Qth February, Wednesday. — Sent one of Mr. Grant's fcn down, with a bag of rice, to meet my people, who jnd them encamped on the Mississippi. Wrote a letcer .1 . i1 ' ■If4 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE !iii ,i;,r to Mr; Dickson on the subject of the FoIs^Avoins,* als some orders to my sergeant. This evening had a Ion conversation with De Breche, he informed me that string of Wampum, had been sent among the Chipewaysj he thoAight by the British commanding officer at St. seph ; he appeared to be a very intelligent man. 27/<& February, Thursday, — ^The chief called White Fisher and seven Indians arrived at the house, men also arrived about 12 o'clock. 28/i& February, Friday. — ^We left Red Cedar LakI about 1 1 o'clock, and went to where the canoes wen mentioned in my journal of the 1st January. My yoiisl Indians remained behind, under the pretence of wait for the chief De Breche, who returned to Sandy Lake fi| his flag and medals, and was to render himself at post with Mr. Grant, about the 15th of the foUowiij month. \st March, Saturday, — ^Departed early. Passed encampment of the 31st December, at 9 o'clock A. Passed Pine river at 12 o'clock. Passed our encampmej of the 30th December at 3 o'clock. Passed our encan roent of the 29th November, just before we came to( present, which we made on the point of the Pine Ridjj below. Distance 43 miles. 2d March, Sunday. — ^Passed our encampment of I 28th December, at 10 o'clock A. M. that of the 27th cember at 1 o'clock P. M. and encamped at that of the 2(ij December. Found wood nearly sufficient for our This morning dispatched Bradley, to the last place we I buried a barrel of flour, to thaw the ground and hu This day a party of Indians, struck tKe river beh Bradley and before us, but left it 10 miles above Raven river. M' 'Hi * See appendix to part 1, [No. 9.] page %3' Ti .'»t TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 75 Sd March, Monday.-^'Marched early; paraed our iristmas encampment, at sunrise. I was ahead of my r, in my cariole. Soon afterwards I observed a smdce the W. shore. I hallood, and some Indians appeared )n the bank. I waited until my interpreter eame up, then went to the camp. They proved to be a party of ipeways, who had left the encampment, the same day left it. They presented me witli some roast meat, lich I gave my sleigh dogs. They then left their camp accompanied us down the river. We passed our en- ipment of the 24th December, at 9 o'clock, of the 23d ^10 o'clock, and of the 22d at eleven o'clock ; here the lians crossed on to the W. shore ; arrived at the en- ipment of the 21st December, at 12 o'clock. Where had a barrel of flour. I here found corpoi*al Meek and )ther man, from the post, from whom I heard, that the m were all well ; they confirmed the account of a Sioux dug fired on a sentinel ; and added, that the sentinel first made him drunk, and then turned him out of tent, upon which he fired on the sentinel and ran off, It promised to deliver himself up in the spring. The )oral informed me, that the sergeant had used all the rant hams and saddles of venison, which 1 had r^e- ^ved to present to the commander in chief and other »nds ; that he had made away with all the whiskey, in- iding a keg I had for my own use, having pul 'icly sold ^o the men, and a barrel of pork, that he had broken m ny trunk and sold some things out of it, traded with Indians, gave them liquor, &c. and this too contrary I my most pointed and particular directions. Thus, after kad used, it going up the river with my party, the ictest economy, living upon two pounds of frozen ve- )n a day j in order that we Hiight have provision to car- I us down in the spring ; this fellow was squandering ly the flour, pork, and liquor, during; the winter, and (l: . { !■ ^ m' ra JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE !i!, ! ; while we were starving with hunger and cold* I haw davedl all our corH) bacon, and the me?^t of six deer, and left jN at Sandy Lake, with some tents, my mess boxes, s^ltJ lobacco, &c. all of which we were obliged to sacrifice byl not retuiiiing the same route we went, and we consoled! ourselves, at this loss, by the flattering idea, that wej should find at our little post, a handsome stock preserved] how mortifying the disaf^KMntment. We raised our bar] rel of ilou:*, and came down to the mouth of a Uttle riverj on the east, which we passed on the 21st December] The ice covered with water. 4fth March, Tuesday. — Proceeded early. Passed o« encampment cf the 20th December at sunrise. Arrived" at that of the 19th at 9 o'clock j here we had buried tw, barrels. Made a large fire to thaw the ground. Wen i on the prairie and found Sparks, one of my hunters, ant brought him to the river at the Pine Camp. Passed oi^ opposite to our encampment, of the 13th of Decembe:i and encamped where Sparks and some men had an olij hunting camp, and where the Fresaie (a Chipeway chief surrounded them. 5th March, Wednesday. — Passed all the encampment] between Pine creek and the post, at which we arrive abour 10 o'clock. I sent a man on ahead, to prevent th salute 1 had before ordered by letter ; this I did from th idea that the Sioux chiefs would accompany me. Founi all well. Confined my sergeant. About one o'clock MrJ Dickson arrived, with the KiU.cur Rouge, his son, and twi other Sioux men, with two women ; who had come up ta be introduced to the Sauteurs, they expected to find witlj me. Received a letter from Keinviile. « 6th March Thursday. — Thomas, the Fols Avoin'j first ctief, arrived with ten others of his nation. I madj a serious and authoritative expostulative representadoi to him of my opiiugii gf the Shawonoe's (another chiej TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. fr his nation who had behaved ill) conduct. Had also a iference with the Killeur Rouge and his people. At iht wrote to Messrs. Grant, M'Gillis, and Anderson. '1th Marchi Friday. — Held conversations with the lans. Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief assured me, that Iwould interest himself, in obliging the Puants to de- ^r up the men who had recently committed murders, (the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers ; and if necessary' he lid make it a national quarrel, on the side of the Ame- is. This Thomas is a fine fellow, of a very mascu- figure, noble and animated delivery, and appears to very much attached to the Americans. The Sioujc i>rmed me, that they would wait until I had determined affairs in this country, and then bear my words to the |er St. Peters. Sth March, Saturday. — ^The Fols Avoin chief pre- ^ted me with his pipe to give to the Sauteurs on their ival, with assurances of their safety on their voyage, his wish for them to descend the river. The Fils de Hleur Rouge also presented me with his pipe, to present [the Sauteur Indians on their arrival, to make them )ke, and assure them of his friendly disposition, and It he would wait to see them at Mr. Dicksons. Thomas jde a formal complaint against a Frenchman, (by name ?ignor) who resided in Green bay, who, he said, abused Indians, beat them, &c. without provocation. I pro- jed to write to the commanding officer, or Indian agent lichilimackinac, upon the occasion. The Indians with k Dickson, all took their departure. Hitched F'y dogs the sleigh, who drew one of the Indian women down the to the no iiitle amusement of the others. Went some tance down the river in order to cut a mast. Cut a [e mast 35 feet long^ for my big boat at the pHiirie. is day my little boy broke the cock of my gun ; few ling misfortunes could have happened, which I should il f 7» JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE H.< ■ il I II li^'^li m have regretted more, as the \nld fowl just began to retuq| on the approach of spring. ft 9th March, Sunday. — ^I examined into the conduc of my sergeant, and found that he was guilty and punishj ed him by reduction, &c. Visited the Fols Avoin lodge and received a present of some tallow. One of my meij arrived from the hunting camp with two deer. lOih March, Monday. — Was visited by the Fol^ Avoin chief and several others of his nation. This chiei was an extraordinary hunter ; to instance his power, hj killed forty elk and a bear in one day ; chasing the forj mer from dawn to eve. We were all busied in preparii^ oars, guns, mast, &c. by the time the ice broke up, whid was opening fast. llth March, Tuesday. — ^In a long conversation wit( a Reynard, he professed not to believe in an hereafterl but he believed that the world would all be drowned water, at some future period ; he asked how it was to re-peopled. In justice to his nation, however, I musti serve, that his opinion was singular. 12th March, Wednesday. — Made preparations; h fine chase with deer on the ice ; killed one. Since oti return I received^ght deer from our camp. I3th March, Thursday. — Received two deer from i hunting camp. Went out w'.th my gun on the opposiJ side of the river. Ascended the mountain which bordeij the prairi On the point of it I foui'd a stone, on whicj the Indians had sharpen d their knives, and a war clui half finished. From this spot you may extend the eji over vast prairies without, scarcely any, interruption, bi clumps of trees which at a distance appealed like moimj tains ; from two or three of which the smoke risiiig in tli| air, denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, too often marked them out as victims to their enemiesj from whase cruelty, I have had the pleasure in I 111; < TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 79 of the winter, and through a wildemsss of im- ise extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned rough my mediation, from the prairie Des Cheins to lower Red river. If a subalt^n Arith but 20 men, at great a distance from the seat of his government could BCt so important a change in the minds of those savages, lat might not a great and independent power effect, if tead of blowing up the flames of discord, they exerted fir influence in the sacred cause of peace ? When I turned to the fort, I found the Fols Avoin chief who fended to remain all night. He told me that near the iclusion of the revolutionary war, his nation began to l>k upon him as a warrior ; that they received a parole )m Michilimackinac, on wliich he was dispatched with warriors ; that on his arrival he was requested to lead sm against the American^. To which he replied, " We Ihave considered you and the Americans as one people. [You are now at war ; how are we to decide who has [justice on their side ? Besides you white people are like the leaves on the trees for numbers. Should I 'rch with my 40 warriors to the field of battle, they dth their chief, would be unnoticed in the multitude ; id would be swallowed up as tf big waters embo^ [som the small rivulets which discharge themselves into lit. No, I will return to my nation, where my coun- [trymen may be of service against our red enemies, and leir actions renowned in the dance of ctur nation." 14//j March, Friday, — Took the latitude by an arti- [ial horizon, and measured the river. Received one ;r and a half from my hunting camp, Ice thinner. 1 5tb March, Saturday. — ^I'his was the day '^xed upon Mr. Grant and the Chipeway warriors, for thv-ir arrival kiy fort ; and I was all day anxiouslv expecting them ; I knew that should they not accompany me down, the ice partially etiected between them and the Sioux, would ^\ J 1' ^1 1 i \i jl w JOURNAL or A VOYAGE i< n ■i;i!i iiiii irm not be on a permanent footing ; and upon this I take the to be neither sc brave nor generous, as the Sioux, vfh in all their transactions, appear to be candid and bnvd whereas the Chipcways are suspicious, consequently tn\ cherous, and of course cowards, 16tb March, Sunday, — Received three deer from oij hunting camp. Examined trees for canoes. 11th March, Monday. — ^Left the fort with my intej preter and Roy, in order to visit Thomas, the Fols Ave chief, who was encamped, with six lodges of his natia about '20 miles below us, on a little river which empti^ into the Mississippi on the W. side, a little above Clean ver. On our way down, killed one goose, wounded anothe and a deer that the dogs had driven into an air hole ; hu our game on the trees. Arrived at the creek, took o\ on it ; ascended three or four miles on one bank, descended on the other. Killed another goose. Strui the Mississippi below . Encamped at our encamjj ment of the of October, when we ascended river. Ate our goose for supper. It snowed all dal and at night a very severe storm arose. It may be iniJ gined that we spent a very disagreeable night vvithoil shelter, and but one blanket each. 18t/j March, Tuesday. — We marched, determined^ find the lodges. Met an Indian, whose track we pursue through almost impenetrable woods, for about two andl half miles, to the camps ; here there was one of the finej sugar camps I almost ever saw, the whole of the timb bi-'ing sugar tree. We were conducted to the chiefl lodge, who received us in the patriarchal style, pulled ofi' my leggins and mockinsons, put me in best place in his lodge, and offered me dry cloaths. then presented us with syrup of the maple to drink, thej asked whether I prefered eating beaver, swan, elk or de upon my giving the preference to the first, a large kettl TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 81 ps filled by his wife, of which soup was made ; this Ing thickened with flour, we had what I then thought a jlicious repast. After we had refreshed oursellves, he ted whether we would visit his people, at the other iges, which we did ; and in each were presented with lething to eat ; by some with a bowl of sugar j others Reaver's tail, &c. After making this tour, we re- lied to the chief's lodge, and found a birth provided each of us, of good soft bear skins nicely spread, and [mine there was a large feather pillow. I must not here ft to mentii^ii an anecdote, which serves to characterize, l-e particularly, their manners. This in the eyes of the icted moralist, would deform my hospitable host into, ^onster of libertinism ; but by a liberal mind would be sidered, as arising from the hearty generosity of the wild ige. In the course of the day observing a ring on one ly fingers, he enquired if it was gold ; he was told it the gift of one, with whom I should be happy to be lat time ; he seemed to think seriously, and at night my interpreter, " That perhaps his father" (as they died me) " felt much grieved for the want of a wo- if so, he could furnish him with one." He was ^ered, that with us each man had but one wife, and 1 considered it strictly my duty, to remain faithful to This he thought strange, (he himself having three) replied that " He knew some Americans at his nation, lo had half a dozen wives during the winter." The ^preter observed that, they were men without charac- but that all our great men, had each but one wife. i chief acquiesced, but said he liked better to have ais as he pleased. This conversation passing without ippeal to mC; a: the interpreter knew my m.ind on occasions and answerec* immediately, it did not ap- as an immediate refusal of the woman. Continued Hng very hard all day. Slept very warm. H 83 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ■ ■ ..'■a.iim' < I ' iillil ■| I 19//? March, Wednesday. — ^This niorning purchasi^ two bask s of sugar, for the amount of which I g? orders on Mr. Dickson. After feastinpr upon a awai took our leave for camp.; still snowing. I nxding my I companions unable to keep up, 1 pushed on and arrival at the river. When 1 arrived at the place, I had hiu up my first goose, I found that the ravens and eagles not left a feather, and, feasting upon the deer, wasj band sufficient to have carried it away, who had picked ij bones nearly clean ; what remained I gave my dogs. Stcj ped at the place where I expected to find the last goos* but could see nothing of it ; at length I found it hid undi the grass and snow, where some animal had corueealcdf after eating off its head and heck. I carried it to the fcj, where I arrived about an hour before sundown. Dispai| ed, immediately, two men with rackets, to meet the] terpreter and Le Roy. They arrived about two hoj afi :r dark. Some men also arrived at the hunting a mih three deer. The snow ceased falling about one ii(| txit^yc Jark ; it was nearly two feet deep on a level, dc;.?pest that had fiallen so low down this winter. 20tfj March, Thursday. — ^Despatched nine men toj hunting camp, from whence received two deer. Closj almost all day ; but the water rose fast over the ice. 21s/ March, Friday, — Received a visit from the I Avoin chief, called the Shawonoe, and six young I informed him without reserve, the news I heard of j at Red Cedar Lake, and the letter I wrote to Mr. son. He denied it in toto, and on the contrary said, he presented his flag and two medals to the Chipev as an inducement for them to descend in the spring; i gave them all the encouragement in his power. His j was much astonished at the language I held with hira.1 from his firm protestations, we finally parted friends. U formed me that a camp of Sauteurs were on the river, wail I" .ii.T TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 83 the cliiefe to come down ; from which it appeared they re still expected. At night (after the others had gone) )mas arrived and staid all night. We agreed pon a iting party, also promised to pay the old Shawonoe a He informed me, that he set out the other day to )w me, but finding the storm so very bad, returned sis wigwam. The thermometer lower than it has been ly time since I commenced my voyage. 22(/ March, Saturday. — ^Ten of my men r>- d from hunting camp, with four deer and a nai irted, sent a man with him to his camps ch jnt me two beavers. 23d March, Sunday, — Agreeably to promise, after fast I departed with Miller and my interpreter to pay Isit to the old chief Shawonoe. We arrived at his ip in about two hours. On our way we met the Fols >in, called the Chein Blanche who had visited mv L previously to my starting up the river, at whos^ fee we stopped when p ssing. We were received fold Shawonoe at his lodge, with the usual Indian )itality, but very different from the polite reception us by Thomas. Charlevoix and others have all lie testimony to the beaifty of this nation. From my observation, I had sufficient reason to confirm their [rmation as respected the males ; for they were all Ight and well made, about the middle size ; their com- mons generally fair for savages, their teeth good, their large and rather languishing ; they have a mild but ^pendent expression of countenance, that charms at sight J in short, they would be considered any where, landsome men. But their account of the women, 1 iY before believed to be correct. In this lodge there five very handsome women when we arrived ; and It sun.down^ a married pair arrived, whom my interpre- jbserved, were the handsomest couple he knew -, and ^ ^ ^ ^>^ ' ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 11.25 I4i|21 121 1^ 12.0 Hi I ■ U 1 1.6 0% ^ ^}. ^i^* Photographic SdeRces Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRIET WEBSTER, N.Y. USSO (716) 872-4503 V :\ \ ^"^^ ^ V ^O^ u ^^^^1^ ^V^ ^ ? 4^ ^& 'ill : I Uil'l I" llii 84 IpURNAL OFik VOYAGE* u(i truth ihey^ were; the man beiog about S,§ek'khk auui possessing in an eminent manner all th?,^iitMi(< countenance whic^ distinguish tiisna^on* Hitif^mi vas ift years old ; ,ha>^g 4^l>rpwn eyes» jdKil^yi an elegantly proportioned i|Qi^l(> and her %ure < by. . means inclining to corpuj^Dey,. ai9 they generally are nuirriage. He appeared tOjjUlach hin^lf partictnlMy < me, and informed me hj^ iwife was the dai^hleiif < c^ < .^erica% who passing through the nation, a))Out three years before» reipained a week or two, possessed oft mother, and that she ^^ ^ finiitof this amonf h ^^' name they were unacquainted with. I bad Ivpught isiii cuits with me, which I presented her on tl\e scorl (^herl ing my country woman, which raised ;s> loudkvfgH, and was called the Bostonjan d\mf^ thei rdst oJF: liiy.stay. found ti^em generally extremely hard to deal wi^ ; provision being only a little venison, I wished tSoprocu some bear's oil, for a few gallons of which I wis -oblig to pay a dollar per gallon, and then they wanted to tallow with the oil. They also demanded ten doll^iis ; a bear, skin (the most beautiful I ever sa^w^ which I Iwa to mount a saddle,) Indeed I was informed that, trade in this country, sometimes give as much as sttxte^ doll; for befir skins ; for they are eminently superioF);rt0 thing of the kind, on theJower Mississippi ; and i sell i| Europe for double the price. In the evening we wewi tertai^ed with the calumet and dog dance ; also the r of the ' . I . Some of the men s^uckthe post and told^B of theirjvar ei^ploits, but as they spoke ki Menm^emfi interpreter ^ould nof explain it. Altei; the daikce, we the feast pf the dead^ (as it is called) at which ;eath or three were served with ^a.pan or vessel rfull trfinc and when # were reudy there was a prayier, ajft^r vik the eatmg commenced. When it wiir expected >»«:.wo eat up our portion entirely, being carefulnoi to dl^opa boo i I *•' •rO THE SOUROlil bF THE MISSISSIPPI. 85 f^iigtthtfaU lip and'' put them in' ^dw> dish, we -^ere maiMMiSk soap» . After the fating was finished the again gave an exhortation, whii^iinidhed! the cere- pri^m told ilwyth^.ga^erupi all the fragments, (throw them in the iK^er^ iett the:d©gs> should get' .Burning theih is considered as isaaii€igeou$.'^lll» lod^jrwerecdllected atone time 41 persons great and ,.Leech Lake were brave enough to re- tQvtheir homes. ' Mr; Grant and myself sat up late . ^th Marchy Tuesday>^ent an Indian to Thomas's [ge^i and a letter to Mr^iDickson. It snowed and storm- all day. Gave the chief the news. 2Btb Marchy Wedtteidax.^'-'ThonaB, the Fols Avoiii {arrived with seven of his men, and the old Shawo* and six of his party. I had them all to feed s» well as ownmen./ At night I gave them leave to dance in the isbn j : "which thej^ > did imiil 10 o'clock ; but once or ce,t61dinie,^lat:«if I was tired of them, the dance should The old Shawonoe and the WhiteDog of the AVoins told: their exploits, wfaidi we could not un^ itand; biitl^ffi; Breche arose and ^takl, *' I ohce killed Sioux and cut off* his head with such a spear as I now to this Winebago.'? At the same time present- one j^ a Winebago present, withi whbm the Chipis^ were at n^ar ; this Was considered by theibrmer as %: t honor. My hunters went out (Hit killed viothhig. >i ^tb Manhy 7kursda^--~ln the mommg thd Chipe- iy chief made a speech and presented his peace pipe to > ;■;! im, il 96 JOURNAL OF A VOYAOE «c cc cc <( I'i' me to bear to the 'Sioux, on which were seven strmgsi wampum, as authority from seven bands of the ways, either to conclude peace or to make war. Ai had chosen the former, he sett ids .]»pe to the Sioux requestec^ me to infcxrm them, that he and his people #ov encamp at the mouth of the Riviere De Corbeau the suing summer, where he would see the United States flying. As a proof of his pacific di^sition, the fo Avoin chief then spoke and said, *f His nation dered small by its enemies, only a remnant was le but that they could boast of not being slaves ; for always in preference to their women and children' taken, they themselves killed them. But that '< father (as they called me) had travelled far, and '* taken much pains to prevent the Sioux and Chipewa]! ** from killing one another; that he thought none coulj ** be so ungenerous as to neglect listening to the w^si ** their father : that he would report to the Sioux the ** cific disposition of the Sauteurs^ and hoped the ** would be firm and lasting." I then in a few words formed De Breche, " that I would report to the Sioux i '^ he had said, and that I should ever feel pleased '* grateful that the two nations had laid aside die tci; *^ hawk at my request. That I than^ tlie Fols Avoil *< chief for his good wishes and parole .^h he had give '' the Sauteurs." After all this, each chief was fu ed with a kettle of liquor, to drink each others healtiij and De Breche's flag (which I had presented him) displayed in the fort. The Fols Avoins then departed, which I was by no means displeased, for they had consumed all the dry meat, I had laid aside fbr^py vo age, and I was apprehensive that my hunters would be able lo lay up another supply, imjiiv 28th Marc^^ Friday* — ^Late in the afternoon Gi^ant and the Sauteurs took thdr departure, calct TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. the Sioux had left the country. Took with me one my soldiers and accompanied them to the Fols Avoins (called the Shawonese) where we (ten) stayed all It. The Fob Avoins tfid Sauteurs h^ a dance^ at ich I left them and went to sleep. Feasted on elk, su- and syrup. Previously to the Indians departing from post, I demanded the Chief's medal and flags ; the ler he delivered, but with a bad grace, the latter he were in the lands when I left Lake De Sable ; (as in- ted by the traders I suppose) and that he could not them. It thundered an^ lightened. 29tb March, Saturday, — ^We all marched in the ig. Mr. Grant and party for Sandy Lake, and I ; my hunting camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. He led me again after we had seperated about 5 miles. Ar* at my hunting camp about 8 o'clock in the morning, was inft>rmed that my hunters had gone to bring in a they arrived with it, and about 1 1 o'clock we all It out hunting. Saw but few deer, out of which I had good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp id one of my men at the garrison, with a letter from Mr. son. The soldier informed me that one Sioux had Ived with Mr. Dickson's men. Although much fa- led, soon as I had eat something, I took one of my and dep?rted for the garrison one hour before sun- The distance was 21 miles, and the ice very dange- IS bang rotten, and the water over it nearly a ftxst deep ; had sticks in our hands, and in many places ran them [oughtheice. It thundered and lightened with rain. The ^ux not finding the Sauteurs, had returned immediate^. 30/^ March, Sunday,'-^Wrote to Mr, Dickson and latched his noti. Considerably stiff from my yester- ^'s march. . Caulked our boats, as the ice had every }earance^ of breaking up in a few days. Thus whilst I the wing of eager expectation, every day seemed an I \ i' H n 1. - -* 'tT' Ijllilllilill III m lli'! 1 I'- '! Mf : i 8B JOURNAL Ol? A VOYAGfe age. H^ceived two deers and an half from our ht camp. 31st March f Mttnday.-^Vimsh^ caulking my beat! the difficulty then was with m^, what I should get to i the seams. We were all this day and next as anxioi watching the ice, as a lover would the arrival of the prie who was to unite him to his beloved. Sometimes it moved! little, but soon closed. An Indian and his woman crossedq when the poles which they held in their hands were ed through in many places. The provision to whichj was obliged to restrict myself and m)^ viz : two of fresh venison per day, was scarcely sufficient to us alive. Though I had not an extraordinary appetite yet I was continually hungry. 2d April, Wednesday. — ^Went out and killed one de and two partridges. ' The ice began to move oppo^te fort at th^ foot of the rapids, but dammed up below. Rel ceived half a dozen bears from my hunting camp. Launc ed our canoe and brought her down. 3d April, Thursday. — Sent one man down to see tii| river, another to the camp, and took two men mys over the hills on the other side of the Mississippi to hi In the course of the day I killed a swan and a goose, we certainly would have killed one or two elk, had it been for the Udgh dogs ; for we lay concealed on th banks of Clear river, when four came and threw then selves into it opposite, and were swimming directly to i when our dogs bounced into the water, and they turne We then fired on them, but they carried off all the! le we gave them, and we could not cross the river, unle we rafted (it being bank full) which would have detainei us too IcAg a time. In the evening it bi^came very cold aoid we passed rather an uncomfortitb)^ night. .ii>ii^i^t }iM\'4th April,. f]r/i/«y.— Toofcfour «6urs6 home. I led oiie large buck and wounded another; W<6 madei TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 89 I and eat breakfast Arrived at the fort at 2 o'clock P. was informed that the river was still shut below, at the ister of islands. Received some bear meat, and one ;r fix>m the camp. Stb April, Saturday.'^hi the morning dispatched two down the river in order to see if it was open. My Iters arrived from the camps. Tallowed my boats with candles and launched them, they made considerable ter. The young Shawonoe airived in my canoe from >ve, with about 1000 lbs. of fur, which he deposited \e fort. The men returned and informed me that the was stUi shut about 10 miles below. 6th April, Sunday,S^iled my peroque with sergeant idley and two men, to descend the river and see if it yet open below. They returned in the afternoon and >rted all clear. I had previously determined to load embark the next day, and hoped to find it free by the le I arrived. The Fols Avoin, called the Shawonoe, ^ved and encamped near the stockade. He informed that hxs nation had determined to send his son down in place, as he declined the voyage to St. Louis. All rts and hands were employed in preparing for our d«- ture. In the evening the men cleared out their room danced to the violin, and sang songs until 1 1 o'clock, rejoiced was every heart at leaving this savage wilder- ^tb April, Monday, — ^Loaded our boats and departed ty minutes .past ten o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at sariiver, where we found my canoe and men. Although partly promised the Fols Avoin chief to remain one It, yet time was too precious, and we put oiF; passed Grand Rapids, and arrived at Mr. Dickson's just be- sun-down ; we were saluted with three rounds. At It he treated all my men with a supper and dram., ■Xt :!,! llil li'lll'is I -:!i dd JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE Mr. Dickson, Mr. F^utier and myself, sat up until fo o'clock in the morning. %th Aprily Twj^a/.— Were obliged to remain day on account of some information to be obtained hen I spent the day in making a rough chart of St. Peten making notes on the Sioux, &C4 settling the affairs of Indian department with Mr. Dickson, for whose comn)i| nications, and those of Mr. Paulier, I am infinitely debted. Made every necessary, preparation for an ea embarkadon. 9tb Aprils Wednejday.-^Koae early in the moi and commenced my arrangements. Having observed Indians drunk, during the night, and finding upon enqid ry, that the liquor had been furnished them by a Mr. Gre nor or Jennesse, I sent my interpreter to them; to quest they would not sell any strong liquor to rlie Inc upon which Mr. ^nnesse demanded the reitiicdonsj writing, which were given to him,* On demanding licence it amounted to no more, than merely a certific that he had paid the tax required by a law of the Indiana t ritory, on all retailers of merchandize ; but it was by i means an Indian licence ; however, I did not think prop to go into a more close investigation. Last night, was! cold thai the water was covered with floating cakes of a of a strong consistence. After receiving every mark of j tendon from Messrs. Dickson and Paulier, I took my dep ture at 8 o'clock. At 4 P. M. arrived at the house of Paulier, 25 leagues, to whose brother I had a letter. ^| received with politeness by him and a Mr. Veau, who^ tered along side of him, on the very island, at which well encamped on the night of the : of Oct. in asce ing. After having left this place some time, we discov ed a bark canoe a-head, we gained on it ^for some -• -.:' . ; ■ . ./ . ■ • See appendix to part l|i[No..io.] pagu 44'. TO THE- SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 91 it tumed'a point about 800 yards before ; and on turning it sAio, it had entirely disappeared. This ex- my curiosity, I stood up in the barge, and at last :overed it tamed up in the grass of the prairie, but af« iwe had passed a good gun shot, three savages made appearance itpm under it, launched her in the river, followed, not knowing of my other boats which had turned the point immediately upon. them. They then le on I /and, on my stopping for the night at a vacant Ung house also stopped, and addressed me *' Saggo ittdantf or *iyimr serOant captain" I directed my )reter to enquire their motives, for concealing tfaeni- I They replied, that their canoe' leaked, and that had turned her up to discharge the water. This I not believe, as their conduct was e4uivocal, I received rather sternly } I gave them however a small dram piece pf bread. Theyjbea ii^embarked, and con^ led do\i(n the riv0r. Their conduct brought to mind visit of ! the FiU;jde Pinc^w to Mr* Dickson, during winter; oniej /principal cause of 'which Iwas, that he ^hed to inform tme that the seveji men, whom I men^* led to have rmet when crossing the portage of St. Mt* ly^ had since dedared that they uwould kill him for ^oing to thevpe^e betweenithe^ Sioux and Sauteurs.; for being instrumental iii preventii^ them from, taking revehge for relations /hilled by^^he Sauteurs in Au« lJiK)5.f^and Tfjomas^ the Feds; jJkAroir. chief, for the )p0nJhe ^oemed disposed to ^eme;^ : This information not made the impressionif ought to have made, coi^n* from sQjrespectable a souix!£, as the hrst chief of the Jage lubut the fxmductdfi ^hose feUows put me tpth^ isidecation of it. And I apfiealio>G6d and my country, if preservation: would not ; have j^tiHed me^ in cutting )se scoundrels^ pieces wherever I found them ? Thii men would have done, if ©rdered^ amidst a thousand -I 9.2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 'M] of them, and I ahoukl haYe been supported, by the el of the St. Peters, tt the mouth of which were aoo riors, attending my arrival ^ also thd rascal who fired my sentinel last winter. I dreaded the consequences i the meeting not for the present } but for km the imj osity of my conduct might not be appvpved of by my { vemment $ who did not so intimatdy know the nature ( those savages.. This day ^ for the first time, we saw commencement of vegetation, yet the snow -was a deep in some places. . 10th April, TJlntriday.^¥mSaaled at half past 5 o'clodj about 7 passed Rum river, and at 8 wei^e saluted by 6i 7 lodges of Fols Avoins, amongst whom was a Mr. a clerk of Mr. Dickson's. Those people had winte on Rum river, and were waiting for their chiefs and ders to descend in order to accompany them to the Pi Des Chiens. Arrived' at the Falls of St. Anthony at ^*clock. Carried over all our loading and the canoe j the lower end of the portage, and haul^ our boats upi the bank. ^ I pitched my tents at the lottrer end of thei campment where all the men encamped except the whose quarters we^e above. The s^pearance of the Fai was much more tremendous than when we ascjSndied ; increase of water occasioned the ^ray to raise pa cuiai*: invitation to come on shore, we landed, and received in. a lodge kindly ; they)|Mre8?nted us sugtir, I gave the proprietor! a dram^ and itras about to diep when he„denianded« kettle of li()Uor; on being ref ai^d after I had left the shore, he told kne^ that he, did i like the arriiHgements,; and thathe would^go to war tl| summer.' I dii'ect^ the interpreter to jteU him, thati returned to the St. Feter$ with the tro0p6, I would i ;hat affair with him. On our,|i|rriy0l at the St.iCrc found the Petit Corbeau with his people, $md Messrs* ij zer and Wood* We had a conferienc^ when the if Corbeaunaade many apologias for the misconduct of I people ; he represented to us the different manners in; his young vfa^riors hp^d been inducing him to go to that he iiadb^gn mu^h blamedjiidr disn^issinghis panyi fall ; but that he was determined to adhere as far asiaji bis power; to our instructions { that he thought.it TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 9» ident to remain here and restrain the warriors. He presented me with a beaver robe and pipe, and his isage to the general. That he was determined to pre- re peace, and make the road clear ; also a remembrance lis promised medal. I made him a reply, calculated confirm him in^s good intentions, and assured him he should not be the less remembered by his father, hough not present. I was informed, that, notwith^ ling the instructbn of his licence, and my particular lest, Murdoch Cameron had taken liquor and sold it to Indians on the river St. Peters ; and that his partner }w had been equally imprudent. I pledged myself to :ute them according to law ; for they have been the sion of great confusion, and of much injury to the »r traders. This day met a canoe of Mr. Dickson's, led with provision, under the charge of Mr. Ander- brother of the Mb. Anderson, at Leech Lake. He Itely offered me any provision he had on board, (for :h Mr. Dickson had given me an order) but not now jig in want, I did not accept of any. This day, for the time, I observed the trees beginning to bud, and in- the climate seemed to have changed very materially we passed the Falls of St. Anthony. 13th April, Sunday. — ^We embarked after breakfast, psrs. Frazer and Wood accompanied me. Wind strong bd. They outrowed us ; the first boat or canoe we with on the voyage able to do it, but then they were kble manned and light. Arrived at the band of the Rouge at 2 o'clock, where we were saluted as usual. had a council, when he spoke with more detestation [he conduct of the rascals at the mouth of the St. Pe- than any man I had yet heard. He assured rae, ^king of the fellow who had fired on my sentinel, and itened to kill me, that if I thought it requisite, he should tilled } but that as there were many chiefs above, with n JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE m ! I whom he wished to speak, he hoped I would remain one day, whea all the Sioux would be down, and I might have the conunand of a thousand men of them, that I would' probably think it no honor ; but that the British used to flatter them they were proud of having them for soldiers. I replied in general terms, and assur- ed him that it was not for the conduct of two or three rascals that I meant to pass over all the good treatment I had received from the Sioux nation ; but, that in general council I would explain myself. That as to the scoundrel who fired at my sentinel, had I been at home, the Sioux nation would never have been troubled with him, for I would have killed him on the spot. But that my young men did not do it, apprehensive that I would be displea8«. ed. I then gave him the news of the Sauteurs, &c. that as to remaining one day, it would be of no service ; that I was much pressed to arrive below ; as my general ex- pected me, my duty called me, and that the state of my provision demanded the utmost expedition ; that I would be happy to oblige him, but that my men must eat. He replied, that Lake Pepin being yet shut with ice, if I went on and encamped on the ice, it would not get me provision. That he would send out all his young men the next day ; and, that if the other bands did not arrive he would depart the day after with me. In short, after much talk, I agreed to remain one day, knowing that the lake was closed and that we could proceed, only nine miles if we went ; this appeared to give general satisfac- tion. I was invited to difierent feasts, and entertained at one by a person whose father was enacted a chief by the Spaniards. At this feast I saw a man (called by the French the Roman nose, and by the Indians the Wind that Walks) who was formerly the second chief of the Sioux, but be- ing the cause of the death of one of the traders, seven years since, he voluntarily relincjuished the dignity, and has fret he was himself His Joflj in him, which tl mitteri lo and as no facto, am certainly however, Mr. Rolle some bran ing those a to prosecu cepted of t prosecuuon personal pn quence of t to set fishin foi" the time into their 1 the greatest tably have j 'he rascal s actually cocl but was pre\ \ Roman Nose. be detailed h pessrs. Woe called the Bar iThe valley Ithannels wou, and the lofty TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 97 emadn md I them, at the having assur- r three :ment 1 general Dundrel e Sioux n, fori y yoiaig displeas- &c. that ce; that leral ex- te of my I would eat. He ice, if 1 )t get me lung men lot arrive 3rt, after that the »nly ni»e satisfac- tained at |ef by the te French It Walks) :, but be- irs, seven ity, and has frequently requested to be given up to the whites. But he was now determined to go to St. Louis and deliver himself up where he said they might put him to death* His long repentance, the great confidence of the nation in him, would perhaps protect him from a punishment which the crime merited. But as the crime was com- mitted long before the United States assumed its authority, and as no law ol theirs could affect it, unless it was ex post facto, and had a retrospective eflfect, I conceive it would certainly be dispunishable now. I did not think proper, however, to inform him so. I here received a letter from Mr. Rollet, partner of Mr. Cameron, with a present of some brandy, coffee and sugar. I hesitated about receiv- ing those articles from the partner of the man I intended to prosecute ; their amount being trifling, however I ac- cepted of them, offering him pay. I assured him that the prosecution arose from a sense of duty, and not from any personal prejudice. My canoe did not come up, in conse- quence of the head wind. Sent out two men in a canoe to set fishing lines ; the canoe overset, and had it not been for the timely assistance of the savages, who carried them into their lodges, undressed them and treated them with the greatest humanity and kindness, they must inevi- tably have perished. At this place 1 was informed, that the rascal spoken of as having threatened my life, had actually cocked his gun to shoot rae from behind the hills, but was prevented by the others. 14ft h April , Monday^^-Wis invited to a feast by the Roman Nose. His conversation was interesting, and shall [be detailed hereafter. The other Indians not yet arrived. [Messrs. Wood, Irazer, and myself, ascended a high hill called the Bam, from which we had a view of Lake Pepin. The valley through which the Mississippi by numerous, thannds wound itself to the St. Croix ; the Cannon river |and the lofty hills on each side. I * •■\'' ^ i :¥ ^m JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE i M I ifi' il 1 1 ii i 1 5th JptfU, Tuesday, — A^-ose very early and embslrk- ed about sunidse, much to the astonishment of the In* dians, who v^eire entirely prepared for the council, when they heard I had put off; however after some conversa- tion with Mr. Frazer, they acknowledged that it was •agreeably to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that they could not blame me. I was very positive in my word, for I found it by far the best way to treat the Indians. The Aile Rouge had a beaver robe and pipe prepared to present, but was obliged for the present to retaip it^ Passed through Lake Pepin with my barges, the canoe being obliged to lay by, did not come on. Stbpt at a prairie on the right bank descending, about nine miles below Lake Pepin. Went out to view some hills which had the appearance of { the old fortifications spoken of; but 1 will speak more ful- ly of them hereaftei-. In these hollows I discovered a I jQock of elk, took out fifteen men, but we were not able to- kill any. Mr. Frazer came up and passed on about two mites'. We eneartiped tdgether. Neither Mr. Wood's! nor my canoe arrived. Snowed considerably. ieth Jpril^ Wednei^ay^-^Mr, Fra2:er's canoes and I thy boats sailed about one hour by suii. We waited some time expecting Mr. Wood's barges, and my canoe, but hearing a gun fired first just above our encampment, we I were induced to make sail. Passed the Aile Prairie, also Lai Montagne qui Trompe a L*eau, the prairie De Cross, and I encamped on the W. shore, a few hundred yards belpv,| wh^re I had enciamped on the day of September, inl descending. Killed a goose flying. Shot at some pidgeonsi at our camp, and wa& answered from behmd an island! with two guns ; we returned them, and were replied to byl two mor^. This day the trees appeared in bloom. Snowl RUght s^U be seen on the sides of the hills. Distance 7^1 TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 99 ibark- he In- when iversa- it was indthat ^ word, IS. The present, through liged to he right e Pepin, urance of more ful- :overed a notable about two I . Wood's inoes aid I aitedsome :anoe, but] pment, v/e' ie, also La| Cross, irds belpv, )tember, in ne pidgeons i an island! •epliedtoby Dotti. Snovl Distance 7i ;>_■ '♦ nth April, Thursday.—"'? oflF pretty eaily and ar- rived at Wabasha's band at 1 1 o clock, where I detained all day for him ; but he alone of all the hunters remained out all night. Left some powder and tobacco for him. The Sioux presented me with a kettle of boiled meat and a deer. I here received information that the Puants had killed some white men below, Mr. Wood's and my canoe arrived. 18//& April, Friday, — ^Departed from our encampment Very early. Stopped to breakfast at the Painted Rock. Ar- trived at the Prairie Des Cheins at two o'clock j and were received by crouds on the bank. Took up my quarters at Mr. Fisher's. My men received a present of one bar- rel of pork from Mr. Campbell, a bag of biscuit, 20 loaves of bread, and some meat from Mr. Fisher. A Mr. Jear- reau, from Cahokia, is here, who embarks tomorrow for St. Louis. I wrote to general Wilkinson by him.* I was called on by a number of chiefs, Reynards, Sioux of the Des Moyan, &c. The Winebagos were here intending, as I was informed, to deliver some of the murderers to me. Received a great deal of news from the States and Europe, both civil and militaiy. I9th April, Saturday. — Dined at Mr. Campbell's in company with Messrs. Wilmot, Blakely, Wood, Rollet, Fisher, Frazer, and Jearreau. Six canoes arrived from the upper part of the St. Peters with the Yanctong chiefs from the head of that river. Their appearance was in- deed savage, much more so than any nation I have yet seen. Prepared my boat for sail. Gave notice to the Puants that I had business to do with them the next day, A band of the Gens Du Lac arrived. Took into my pay as interpreter Mr. Y. Reinville. 20/A April, Sunday. — ^Held a council with the Puant chiefs, and demanded of them the murderers of their na- Aer appendii to part !■ [No. Ii]pagc aj. -^Ai^^r 100 Journal of a voyage !l',! tion ;t they required till tomorrow to consider of it ; this afternoon they had a great game of the cross on the prai- rie, between the Sioux on the one side, and the Puants and Reynards on the other. The ball is made of some hard substance and covered with leather, the cross sticks are round and net work, with handles of three feet long. The parties being ready, and bets agreed upon, (some- times to the amount of some thousand dollars) the goals are set up on the prairie at the distance of half a mile. The ball is thrown up in the middle, and each party strives to drive it to the opposite goal ; and when either party gains the first rubber, which is driving it quick round the post, the ball is again taken to the centre, the ground changed, and the contest renewed ; and this is continued until one side gains four times, which decides the bet. It is an in^ i teresting sight to see two or three hundred naked savag;es contending on the plain who shall bear off the palm of victory ; as he who drives the ball round the goal is much shouted at by his companions. It sometimes hap- pens that one catches the ball in his racket, and depending! on his speed endeavors to carry it to the goal, and when he finds himself too closely pursued, he hurls it with great force and dexterity to an amazing distance, where there are always flankers of both parties ready to receive it ; it seldom touches the ground, but is sometimes kept in the air for hours before either party can gain the victory. In the game which I witnessed, the Sioux were victorious, more I believe, from the superiority of their skill in throw- ing the ball, than by their swiftness, for I thought the I Puants and Reynards the swiftest runners. I made a writ- ten demand of the magistrates to take depositions con* cerning the late murders.} Had a private conversation] with Wabasha. f See appendix to part I. [No. lit page 26. I See appendix to part I. [No. 13J page 29. if, this the prai- ants and me hard iS sticks •eet long. i, (some- the goals nile. The strives to arty gains 1 the post, I changed, I until one It is an inr Led savages F the palm' the goal is !times hap- dependingl and when iris it with [nee, where' to receive itimes keptl the victory, victorious,! ill in throvf-' thought the ladeawrit- lations con- lonversationl TO THE FOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 101^ 21j/ April, Mon^y.'-^Vfis sent for by La Feuille, and had a long and interesting conversation with him, in which he spoke of the general jealousy of his nation to- wards their chiefs ; and that although he knew it might occasion some of the Sioux displeasure, he did not hesitate to declare that he looked on the Mez Corbeau, as the man of most sense in their nation ; and that he believed it would be generally acceptable if he was reinstated in his rank. Upon my return I was sent for by the Red Thunder, chief of the Yanctongs, the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared with the most elegant pipes and robes I ever saw ; and shortly he declared, " That white " blood had never been shed in the village of the Yauc- « tongs, even when rum was permitted ; that Mr, Mur- " doch Cameron arrived at his village last autunm ; that " he invited him to eat, gave Jiim com as a bird ; that he « (Cameron) informed him of the prohibition of run\, " and was the only person'iMio afterwards sold it in the ** village." After this I had>«i council with the Puants. Spent the evening with Mr. Wilmot, one of the best in- formed and most gentlemanly man in the place. 22d April, Tuesday. — Hftld a council with the Sioux and Puants, the latter of whom delivered lip their medals and flags. Prepared to depart tomorrow. ^Sd April, Wednesday. — ^After^closing my accounts, &c. at half past 12 o'clock left the prairie, at the lower end of it was saluted by 1 7 lodges of the Puants. Met I a barge, by which I received a letter from my lady. Fur- ther on, met one batteaux and one canoe of traders. Pas- sed one trader's camp. Arrived at Mr. Dubuque's at 10 o'clock at night, found some traders encamped at the en- trance with 40 or 50 Indians, obtained some information from Mr. D. and requested him to write me on certain [points. After we had boiled our victuals, I divided my IJ' :'f m Pi :.m I "AW ,■ Ml >\0i JOURNAL or A VOYAGE men into four watches and put off, wind a-head. Observ- ed for the first time the half formed leaves on the trees. 24/i& April, Thunday, — In the morning used our oars until 10 o'clock, and then floated while breakfasting. At this time two barges, one bark, and two wooden, canoes passed us under full sail ; by one of which I sent back 9 letter to Mr. Dubuque, that I had forgotten to deliver. Stopped at da;k to cook supper, after which, rowed un- der the windward shore expecting we could make head way with four oars ; but were biown on the lee shore in a few moments, when all hands were summoned, and we again with difficulty made to windward, came too, placed on« sentry on my bow, and all hands beside went to sleep. It ndned, and before morning, the water overflowed my bed in the bottom of the boat, having no cover, or any exj^ra accommodations, as it might have retarded my voyage. The wind very hard a-head.) r 25th Aprily Friday. — Obliged to unship our mast to I prevent its rolling overbo^(twith the swell. Passed the | first Reynard village at r^ o'clock, counted 1 8 lodges. Stopped at the prairie in d«s^ending on the left, about the I middle of the rapids, wh6$l^ there is a beautiful cove or harbor. There were threec lodges of Indians here, but none of them came near us. Shortly after we had left I this, observed a barge under sail, with the United States I flag, wliich upon our being seen put to shore on the Bigl Island, about three miles above Stony river, where I alsol landed ; it proved to be capt. Many of the artillerists, whol was in search of some Osage prisoners amongst the Sacsl and Reynards. He informed me that at the village ofl Stony Point, the Indians evinced a strong disposition tol commit hostilities ; that he was met at the mouth of the! river by an old Indian, who said that all the inhabitants of| the village were in a state of intoxication, and advise him to go up alone. This advice however he had reject] TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 103 )bserv- trees. (uroars ig. At ^canoes t back a deliver, >wed vin- tjead way ; in a few weag^ laced one ) sleep. It ed my bed any ex$ra | \y voyage. pur mast to I passed the| 18 lodges, t, about the iful cove or s here, but we had left' fnited States! e on the Big] where I alsol iUerists, \M igst the Sacs he village oi lisposition tol mouth of tbe inhabitants of ^ and advis' he had reject- ed. That when they arrived there, they were saluted by the appellation of the bloody Americans who had lilled such a person's father, and such a person's mother, bro- ther, &c. The women carried off the guns and other arms, and concealed diem. That he then crossed tlie river opposite to the village, and wks followed by a num- ber of Indians) with pistols under their blankets. That they would listen to ho conference whatever, relating t^ the delivery of thii prisc^ers; but demanded insolently why he wore a plume in his hat ; and declared that they looked on it as a maH'k (^ war, and immediately decorat- ed themselves with their raVen^s feathers, worn only in cases of hostility. We regretted that our orders wouid not permit of our punishing the scoundrels, as by a cou/t de main we might es^y have carried the village. Gave capt. Many a note of introduction to Messrs. Campbell^ Fisher, Wilmot, and Dubuque, and every information in my power. We sat up late conversing. ^^/ 2Gth April j Saturday » — Capt. Many dnd myself tool: breakfast and iembarked^ wind directly a-head, and a most tremendous swell to combat, which has e^il^ted ever since we left the prdlHe. Capt. Many uiMer full sail : descended by all the sinuosity of the shore to avoid the strength of the wind and force of the waves. Indeed I was cdnfident I could sail much faster up than we could possibly mkke down. Encamped on Gr&nt's prairie, where we had encamped on the 25th August when ascpiiding. There was one Indian and family present, to whom I gave some com. 2Vh Aprils Sunday. — ^It cleared off dumg the night We embarked early and came from dght Or ten leagues labove the river Iowa, to the establishment at the lower Sac village, by sundown, a distance of nearly 48 leagues. [Here I met with Messrs. Maxwell and Blondeau ; took tile deposition of the former, on the subject of the In- m^mm 4^ ! n ti # 1 5jl 104 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE dian's intoxication at this place, for they were all drunk. They had stolen a horse from the establishment, and of. fered to bring him back for liquor, but laughed at them when offered a blanket and powder. Passed two canoes and two barges. At the establishment received two let. ters from Mrs. Pike, took with us corporal Eddy and the other soldier whom capt. Many had left. Rowed with four oars all night. A citizen took passage with me. 28/^ Aprili Monday. — ^In the morning passed a win- tering ground, where from appearance, there must have been at least seven or eight different establishments. At 12 o'clock arrived at the Frendi house, mentioned in our voyage up, ^bput the 16th of August. Here we landed our citizen, his name w;as . : . , , and he belonged to the settlement on Copper river. He informed me th^re were about 25 families . in the settlement. Stopped at | some islands about 10 miles above Salt river, where there were pidgeon roosts, and in about fifteen n^inutes my men bad knocked on the head and brought on board 298. I had frequently heard of the fecundity of this bird, but never gave credit to what 1 then thought inclined to the marvellous ; but really the most fervid imagination caniiotl conceive their numbers. Their noise in the Woods was like the continued roairing of the wind, and the ground may be said to have been absolutely covered with their I excrement. The young ones which we killed were nearlyf as large as the old, they could fly about ten steps, and! were one mass of fat ; their craws were filled with acomsl and the wild pea. They were still reposing on their nests,! which were Aierely small biftiches of sticks joined, with I which all the small trees were covered. Met four canoesi of the Sacs, with wicker baskets filled with young pidgeons.1 They made motions to exchange them for liquor, to whichl I returned the back of my hand. Indeed those scoun-l drels had become so insolent through the instigation ofl :*' m ■ 'III, TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 105 the traders, that nothing but the lenity of our goven;- ment snd humanity for the poor devils, could have restrain- ed me on my descent from carrying some of their to\nis by surprize, which I was determined to have done had the information of their firing oii capt. Many proved to have been correct. Put into the mouth of Salt river to cook supper, after which although raining, we put oflf and set our watches, but so violent a gale and thunder storm I came* on about 12 o'clock, that we put ashore ; discover- [ed that one of my sleigh dogs was missing. 29th April, Tuesday.-^hi the morning still raining, [and wind up the river, hoisted sail, and returned to the louth of the river ; but neither here nor on the shore could we find my dog } this was no little mortification, as |t broke the match, whose important services I had alre»» iy experienced, after having brought them so near home. fe continued on until 12 o'clock, when it ceased raining |br a little time, and we put ashore for breakfast. Row- till sun-down, when I set the watch. Night fine and lild. SOth April, Wednesday.'-^By day light found our- elves at the Portage de Sioux. I here landed captain Iany*s two men, and ordered them across by land to the itonment. As I had never seen the village, 1 walked and through it ; there are not more than twenty-one In steps, andB)uses, at furthest^ which are built of square logs. Met with acornsBut. Hughes, about four miles above St. Louis with more In their nests,Ban twenty Osage prisoners, conveying them to the can- ioined, v^thBiunent on the Missouri ; he informed me my friends i four cano^Bpre all well. Arrived about 12 o'clock at the town, me pidgeon3.»er an absence of eight months and twenty two days. ior,towlucbl those scoun-J instigation (Signed) Z. M. Pike, Lieut. ' I ';> o ''.I Kriftij;-! 'Itj •lof* : ,-t' »{•■'■ iOrtt^G mq im bfi; itr/ "){i J^ JtiUli /'/oh-i^ae iiif j*f' !«!■ j^ «.:|!l||; »:u lo ' r I v.. ~ '• :^m>.' !(:■ *~""""^ AUGUST. I ! !i r ?rirfi|r??|^f|rfi?|-;||j|r I 1 l5--J=f ^lC ■ t ■ I t 888. . .tg8S88SSS8|!S88'S888888 I I B n n a pr r ■ t I I »• «« I- i: i 00 o Ok IT'li' !ll:;li. SEPTKMBKR, T 1( n \ t. iiii*ffi(iiiiiiifliii«i««i*i*i* V a*, '/ «t M M HH I f?»r||r|p|?4?|f|rr?f?-i'|| t I i 5 fc I I |5 o It I r- I 3. 1 SI 48fi I ( fffp ' • ■ 8 • • . S . 3 a n I ! ] I \i(' :•• mm .1- -I m ««85SttBl!8S8S Sii3SSSS"S«<»M<»«>cw>' NOVEMBER. I i <» TTS" i- v 8- on |i. • a • • B • • p. a • 5. • tj • o e« < • • 1 * 5 ^ ^ 3 '.ffi'.^ Bt 3 n * ' &> e< 0< 3 O^uii • • I • • • • • • • "'PPPS «4 Ht s-p* fl I • t I < • I r •i • 'tt* •,<•. •■■••••i*>iiiiffii. f o a I 5" I a Absent. A C O rt V S O S 5 u f s s P s 5" s S O p 4 H O < O O O H . . „ g. . S . . . g. 2 "^ P < n I I s p. S 5' IT i » 3 ■a n s I o 9 I 3 00 o a 03 O 0^ * 9. J 3 % ^ ^ ^ A f%* s g. ? ^ 1-2 9 he -r^ a t o 00 Ci I I I; » § n s I o » a. 03 o S X .» S i! t 8 S e » B «68Q8« S 8 B S 8 . DECEMBER. I ««8Sise!k«»«se»88«^sss«ttis«s««iS88Me IMilMIIMIMIMIIiliStS^^tSiStSbQS 8- «:i;:gtS8!S«SS«.QSS«l8SS&Si4K»fi8tS!StSBiS!S8Sg ?§-i"|f g-l&l'Is-S-lg'I'll. i&§'|&|-|'||§-8'|| 09 M » •< 8 •s. s O O O o J S S n f^' ^ S* Q S a 5i- 5 i 5 S^4 ^ 3,2 I O I o •I- 5' 00 o B S R. 00 o 1l It* I 'r' I{ iiillj lih"^;'! ; IH s 8X « « X e i! t! 8 j! 8S s :: s S C S 6 S 8 * . M » -11 JANUARY. T s, « e I I M I tS « I I I I I I I M M I I I I I £:»! I rgsiissi iss-oi^ow (If* ^«S8S8S ? t t « • r I ■ • re.a> 1 I • • « • pfff' • • -f rrrfi 4" c« • •^^t*^** ■• ■fll«^*l_,l« fl • < ». ^K^^w; • ■ I • < • M*^ V "t AiA.VJS'^ .'■ «"^'^;i^.»: 1?. I & r*^ & I • I • • ! • I r • • t I • • * ■ • fl S!$ SI 8 » r - 1 ■ ■ - I I ' I • • I I " " t ■ •••fM(ii>i||lfli«» I «s. • •fi|'atli«i»l«t III ■ •l*l»-ll l( III I 1 I 0) 3 1 s o I •I • «;tf«,l||| I I I • • I I I I t i I filial* ?! f 09 1 Uil t^8 t! « g 8 g 8 I I FEBRUARY. I t I I i I I I I i i8StS888SM^.<^84S«9«M a. IS888e!S!S!S8l8SSS}a^^».«8S^^8S«. o I ? 1 B"? ■ ••■••■■••■••itnifntMA* u t I I I" I o g I I ? I I I o I iMim: S' ^^^HIM W^ 19 l- ^^H^K^ IHI >. jV^fH'i^ ; ' ^^ 3. T ^ '^" -# ■^ ' <> '.1*1 s J* 'A 4i'^ \ LI Bl-^ 'tl ^^ MN tl t! 00 K. o 7 > " 1 :, t .1 a ^ ? A. ' -li -*^ , H« ■ *i "'■ ' oa O Ok • *■ 1 •• ? 1 i i» f J 1 t • 1 5 . 4 itniK.:''!'! B! m »|; :' l:";ii! ^8««!)XeS88«i ■\1 1 MARCH. tt88S8SJK>.«^»988«£S8t:i;8iSS8«l!eSSSS ^ esdtrei»8»«8ii88S&fi6e98e&8fti i i i i i !• 8- oq - H l|p'?'-^tlt§'.^tl"p-|.§'?".§'ril?'||ii.^8'||l ><■< 5 2 . g-g-g-i-g-. . g'g-§-§'§'§-g§-§-8'. i*?. . I" • • •■^•'■•■•vfl--ta ftiftiilti ■■•••■•■•*i ••tiita* • ••■liaiilai*! «■•>■■ ■■■•tiiiaai f? -SIS •n Cu it i ^ O H w DBSa I • f I I s o s- & o p. f §•? B i IS: a n O 1 1 B oq I I J »8, i? •^ J I •S. I I § ? e- 1l "♦I 8 8 3«eS88!S>SSQ«eS8B = S««M»..»u«^ APRIL. :66&66S6r8Se]CSS8a3S..*.ft8QSStSt I l3:}iiiSS:SlS2S86£SS68i&SS8S!e8SiS£ft3& I 8- ; 09 ti; M ce «g CB ii; SQ w « ig ^ ^ 09 g, CB ce w X !< ^ 94 St ti! ^ 2 SK iHHHnHH^^NN^^^H' KNHHH' H H R R CO ** R 1 " e I S' 8 <» I "S ft a a ' 5: s m 3 I 1 , I , I . Ill 3 a 8 m i S' i- Is — . u 1 "^ g SP ?> f 8 "if !? ? ? a 4 3 r s = 8.5 II" 00 o a a a. e» o t i lliif'' l: t. ■:. ■ I'i'.'i l:^ , I, 1> PIKERS EXPEDITION. PART II. INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT PIKE. y > St. Loui»t June 34M, 1806. |SlR, YOU are to proceed without delay to the cantonment on the lissouri, where you are to embark the late Osage captives, and the deputation recently returned from Washington, with their presents ^nd baggage, and are to transport the whole up the Missouri and )sage rivers to the town of the Grand Osage. The safe delivery of this charge at the point of destination, bonstitutes the primary object of your expedition, and therefore you kre to move with such caution as may prevent surprise from any )osdle band, and are to repel with your utmost force any outrage vhich may be attempted. Having safely deposited your passengers and their property, ou are to turn your attention to the accomplishment of a perma« |ent peace between the Kanses and Osage nations, for which pur- ose you must effect a meeting between the head chiefs of those ations, and are to employ such arguments, deduced from their own bvious interests, as well as the inclinations, desires, and commands the president of the United States, as may facilitate your purpose 1(1 accomplish the end. A third object of considerable magnitude will then claim your bnsideratibn. It is to effect an interview and establish a good un" ptanding with the Yanctons, Tetaus, or Camanches. ^H I- 4 '4 ^r ,il »'!■■»'[ :', 's3 Hf-l §• y. ' :i;l'' fi- ' .^;1 Pi i; ■i\ rili ' '■ 1 ■'!■"■ ■ ' ■'' 1 |i ! Ij; : ■ •! 108 JOURNAL OF A VOYAUK For thi» pyrpose you must interest White Iluir, of the Grand Osage, with whom and a suitable deputation you will visit the Panis republic, where you may find interpreters, and inform yourself uf the most feasible plan, by which to bring the Camanches to a conference. — ShoukI you succeed in this attempt (and no pains must be spared to effect it), you will endeavor to make peace be- tween that distant powerful nation, and the nations which inhabit the country between us and them, particularly the Osage ; and finally you will endeavor to induce eight or ten of their distin- guished chiefs, (o make a visit to the seat of government next Sep- tember, and you may attach to this deputation four or five Panis, and the same numbct of Kanses chiefs. As your interview with tl^e Camanches will probably lead you to the head branches of i the Arkansaw and Red rivers, you may find yourself approximated to the settlements of New Mexico, and there it will be necessary you should move with great circumspection, to keep clear pf any hunting or reconnoitring parties from that province, and to prevent] alarm or offence ; because the affairs of Spain and the United States, appear to be on the point of amicable adjustment, and moreover it I is the desire of the president* to cultivate the friendship and har<[ monious ' itercuurse of all the nations of the earth, and partic«|laiiy| our near neighbours the Spaniards. In the course of your tour, you are to remark particularly uponl the geographical structure, the natural history and population of ihel country through which yon may pasS) taking particular care to<;d[ lect and preserve specimens of ercry thing curious in the mincnll or botanical worlds, |tvhich can be preservecJ and are portable. Let| your courses be regulated by your compbss, and your distances your watcli) to be noted in a field-book^ and I would advise you wti circumstances permit, to protract and lay down in a sepu«te 1 the march of the day at every evening's hah. The inistruments, which I have furnished you, \irill enisle yo to ascertain the variation of the magnetic needle and the latitud with exactitude ; and at every remarkable point, I wish you to en plqy your telescope in observing tlie eclipses of Jupiter's satelite haying previously regulated and adjiusted'your watch by your qu panty taking care to note with great nicety the periods of immeruo and emersions of the eclipsed satetites. These observations i enable us after your return, by application to the appi^opriate table which I cajimot now furnish yoU) to ascertain the longitude. It is an object of much iiHerest with the executive, to ascertaij the direction, extent} uid navigation of the Arkansaw and Red rivei 4; lie Grand the Pan'w : yoarseU iches to a no pains peace be- tch inhabit isage ; and tieir dislin- It next Sep- • five Pani'i crview with branches of pproxin\aU(l be necessary > clear of any I rtd to prevent I United States,] ,d moreover it Iship and hai-I nd particxilavlyl r^cularly nvH ipulation ofti»»l liar care to«=^ JfTof „ars. although we A eSyed our f-» --f ^p^' o; the north si^ . ,he sick men on shore. Mc ^ j„„3 ,hund^ About eleven rfflock at mght ^^ ^^^^ ^ 1 rcr to m St. n ene- frison's Jersey), a little go with ers back ssing the ed to the ere at the erable un- tie impres- believed it as arrested ,fora^^, was obUged' stuped «boutl on ajwi I^r-' auntrytothel gaged, under e to the gene. QentB.t A^n rchedbyM welve o*cW boat and Mr| .ndblfidtokeq though >»'ep« he north side ixdous thuiw*' 1\) I'llh SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. 113 storm arose, and it contlnuoJ to blow and rain, with thun- der and lightning, until Aiy. Distance 15 miles. \9th July, Saturday.— >ii consequence of the rain, we did not put off until past nine o'clock j my sick men march- ed. 1 had some reason to suspect, that one of them intended never joining us again. Vt dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board ; I then went on board the other, and we continued to run races all day, and although this boat had hitherto kept behind ; yet I arrived at the en- camping ground with her, nearly half an hour before the other. The current not generally so strong -as below. Distance 14 miles. 20tb Julyy Sunday. — ^Embarked about sun-rise. Wishing to ascertain the temperature of the water, I dis- covered my large thermometer to be missing, which pro- bably had fallen into the river. Passed one settlement on the nonh side, and, after turning the point to the south, w two more houses on the south side. We encamped n a long reach, which bore north and west. The ab- entees had not yet joined us. Distance 15 miles. ^\st July, Monday, — ^It commenced raining near day, nd continued until 4 o'clock in the afternoon : the rain as immensely heavy, with thunder and lightning remark* ibly severe. This obliged me to lay by ; for, if we pro- leeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our baggage uch more than when at rest ; for the tarpauling could en cover all. We set sail at a quarter past four o'clock, d arrived at the village La Charette a little after the dusk |f the evening, here we foun^f* lieutenant Wilkinson and r. Robinson with the Indians — ^also, Baroney (our inter- ter) with letters from the general and our friends. The eather still continued cloudy, with rain. We were re- ived into the house of a Mr. Chartron, and every ac- mmodation in his power offered us. Distance 6 miles. p .* ,i S t : lU JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ;f i: I '! ■-!■;! ";, :' : (j :f ■•'' 22^ Juiyt Tuesday,-— We arranged our boats, dried our loading, and wrote letters for Belle Fontaine. 23d July, Wedntsday.-^l dispatched an express to the general, with advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had deserted.* We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress : lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. Dr. Robinson killed a deer, which was the first killed by ^l)e party. , Distance 1 3 miles. 24fth July, Thursday, — ^We embarked at half past 6 'clock. Very foggy. The Indians accompanied by only i three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson being a little indisposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped fivel miles from the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, one I bear, and three turkies. But three or four of the Indiansl amved .; the others encamped a small distance belov.l Distance 18 miles. %5th July, Friday.'—We embarkeSd at half past i\ o'clock, and arrived at the entrance of the Gasconade rival half past eight o'clock, at which place I determined to re-l main the day, as my Indians and foot people were yet in thel rear, and they had complained to me of being withoutl shoes, leggins, &c. One of our Pawnees did not arrivel until late ; the other had communicated his suspicion tol me that the Oto, who was in company, had killed hiinl he acknowledged that he p^posed to him to take out theiil ba^age, and return to St. Louis. The real occasion his absence, however, was his having followed a large fre^ trace up the Gasconade a considerable distance ; but find ing it ' . ' from the Missouri, he examined it and discove • Sec appendix to part II. [No. 5.] page 33. and [No. 6.] p gc 36. !l' :' !i.; TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. Hi xpress to jnnerman, rked after tach all the ipare. ^^ )herd river. St killed by half paste niedbyonlyl being a little jer his boat.! ncainpe4 ^A fee deer, onel jf the Irvdmi itance belov.j .6.3Pg«3<>- horses to have been on it, he then left it, joined our*s, and came in. This being generally the route taken by the Poto- watomies, when they go to war against the Osage, it occa^ sioned some alarm. Every morning we were awoke by the mourning of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued for the space of an hour. I made enquiry of my interpreter with respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with those who had recently lost their '•elatives, but also with others who recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined the other mourners purely from sym- pathy. They appeared extremely affected, tears ran down I their cheeks, ^md they sobbed bitterly ; but in a moment 1 they dry their cheeks and they cease their cries. Their songs of grief generally run thus : *♦ My dear fether ex- lists no longer : have pity on me, O Great Spirit ! you [see I cry forever ; dry my tears and give me comfort." [The warriors songs are thus : ** Our enemies have slain ly father (or mother) ; he is lost to me and his family ; pray to you, O Master of Life ! to preserve me until I svenge his death, and then do with me as thou pleaseth." )istance 5 miles. 26th Jufyf Saturday. '-^VJe commenced at 5 o'clock |o ferry the Indians over the Gasconade, and left the eR' mce of this river half past 6 o'clock in the afternoon. let five Frenchmen, who informed us that they had just eft the Osage river, and that it was so low they could not :end it with their canoe. We wrote letters, and sent liem back by them.* Dr. Robinson, * ^roney, Sparks, 3d all the Indians encamped about one league above us. piled one bear, two deer, one otter, three turkies, and one koon. Distance 15 miles. * See appendix to part n. [Nto. 7.] page li. \ i w m. r: Hi •11. i.; m li ! ii'to. 1 I'i ii • . i '.111 i I : I I! ii:| '■'fi in wm k"\\ : I 116 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE Q*7ih July, Sunday.'-^We embarked at half past five o'clock, and arrived at the Indians* camp at 7 o'clock. They had been alarmed the day before, and in the ever- ing sent men back in the trace, and some of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About half past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the Indians time to prepare temporary camps and to secure our baggage. I went out to hunt, and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who were in the woods, they knew the difference of the report of my rifle from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately retired to camp. Distance 13 miles. 2Sth July, Monday. — Embarked at half past 51 o'clock, and at half past 10 arrived in the Osage river, where we stopped, discharged our guns, bathed, &c. We then proceeded on about six ^liles, where we waited fori and crossed the Indians to the west shore, and then pro! ceeded on to the first island and encamped on the westl side. Sans Oreille, and four or five young men onlyj coming up, the rest encamping some distance behind! Killed one deer and one turkey. Distance 19 miles. 29//& July, Tuesday. — All the Indians arrived verjl early and the Big Soldier, whom I had appointed the ofj ficer to regulate the march, was much displeased that Sa Oreille and the others had left him, and said for that re^l son he would not suffer any woman to gq in the boat, anij by that means separate the party ; but in truth it was fi'on jealousy of tfie men whose jvomen went in the boats. HJ began by flogging one of the young men and was about I strike Sans Oreille's wife, but was stopped by him told that he knew he had done wrong, but that the wome were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked J half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we foun ist five 'clock, e ever- liefs sat alf past ■. There early in ry catnps ind firing ^e woods, rifte from d to camp. TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 1 lY the Indians rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called Tuttasuggy (or the Wind), told me that the man whom the Big Soldier struck had not yet ar- rived with his wife, " but that he would throw them away." As I knew he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to reign amongst them, I told him by no means,-— that one of my boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might go to the devil, as a punishment for his insubordination. I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded with the other. We were called ashore by three young In- dians, who had killed some deer, and, on pJhtting thtiii on board, gave them about one or two gills of whiskey, iwhich intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining bout one o'clock, and continued incessantly for three ours, which obliged us to stop and encamp. One of our en (Miller) lost himself, and did not arrive until after ark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one racoon. DIs- ce 14 miles. 30tb July, Wednesday. — After the fog dispersed I left eutenant Wilkinson with the party to dry the baggage, id I went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley. About two 'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first pid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore, illed three deer. Distance 5 miles. 3\st July, Thursday. — We embarked early, and ised several rapids pretty well. Dined with the Indians, wo of them left us in the morning for the village, and ley all had an idea of doing the same, but finally con- uded otherwise. One of the Osage, who had left the y for the village, returned and reported that he had n and heard strange Indians in the woods. This wc d embarked •nsidered as merely a pretext to come back, I tliis day lock we founwt my dog, and the misfortune was the greater, as we had 1 1 ,i i. n . Si 'i U • ti 1i S J- ■ H--iK.J!*, 118 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE I i h no other dog vho would 1)ring any thing out of the water : this was the dog Fisher presented to me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed three deer and one turkey. Distance 18 miles. ^ 1st August, Friday. — It having rained all night, the river appeared to have risen about six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry, but it continuing to rain, by inter^ vals, all day, the things were wetter at sun-down than in the morning. We rolled them up, and left them on the beach. We sent out two hunters in the morning, one of j whom killed three deer ; all the Indians killed three more — ^Total, six. 2d August, Saturday. — ^The weather cleared up. The! loading being spread out to dry, Dr. Robinson, myself,! Bradley, Sparks, and Brown went out to hunt. We killed four deer ; the Indians two. Having reloaded thel boats, we embarked at five o'clock, and came about two! miles. The river rose, in the last twenty-four hours, four! inches. 3d August, Sunday^ — Embarked early, and wishinj| to save the fresh, I pushed hard all day. Sparks was and did not arrive until night. We encamped about paces from the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I he the sentry observe that the boats had better be brought i when I got up and found the water within a rod of ou tent, and before we could get all our things out it reached the tent. Killed nine deer, one wild cat, on goose, and one turkey. Distance 18 miles. 4/A August, Monday. — ^We embarked early and cob tinned on for some time, not being able to find a suitab place to dry our things, but at length stopped on the ( shore. Here we had to feri'y the Indians over a sma channel which we did not before observe ; all of then however, not arriving, we put off and continued our roatftot o'clocj water: jirie des :ance 18 ight, the ' re spread by inter- fn than in ira. on the ng, one of three more edup. Ttiel ion, myseiJ.1 hunt. >^e| reloaded the! te about twi f hours, foul and wishinjl irks was about ir day I ^' brought* a rod of oi igs out it I wild cat, I early and find a suitabl [pedonthe over a siw . all of the! lued our rofii TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. 119 Finding our progress much impeded by our mast I un> shipped it and stripped it of its iron, and, after lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on it, set it adrift, fol- lowed by the yards. This mast had been cut and made at Pine creek. Upper Mississippi. After proceeding some miles, we found the Indians on the west shore, they hav- ing rafted the river. We stopped for them to cook, after which we proceeded on. The navigation had become very difficult from the rapidity of the current, occasioned by the rise of the water, which rose one foot in an hour. Killed two deer. Distance 10 miles. Rainy. 5th August, Tuesday. — ^We lay by this day, in order to give the Indians an opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt ; we bst the latter about two miles from After hunting some time on the west shore, we oncluded to raft the river, which we effected with difli- ulty and danger, and hunted for some time, but without uccess. We then returned to the party and found Mr. enry, who had been lost, had arrived one hour before he had met one of the soldiers, who brought him in. onday in our tour I passed over a remarkably large rattle- :e, as he lay curled up, and trod so near him as to uch him with my foot, he drawing himself up to make om for my heel. Dr. Robinson, who followed me, was on the point of g on him, but by a spring avoided it. I then turned und and touched him with my ram-rod, but he shewed disposition to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. The titude which I felt towards him for not having bit me uced me to save his life. Killed four deer. River rises een inches. Rain continues. €l6 August, Wednesday. — We embarked at half past ;ht o'clock, it having cleared off and had the appear- ill 1^ H I; ^1 1 : ■ ■ ' i ■J ! ! ' I ' . '11 •u m} n -■ ■ -\ ■ f J " 1 ■ '. '•. iMM mm r i' ■\. ,1 ''I II- ^ !■ 1 "li ft i\. ^lii' I :|| nil 130 JOURNAL or A VOYA«E ance of a fine day. Passed Gravel river on the west. About three miles above this river the Indians left us and informed me, by keeping a little to the south and west, they would make in J 5 miles what would be at least 35 miles for us. Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and serjeant Ballenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. Distance 13 miles. Ith August, Thursday. — ^Not being detained by the Indians, we ^x^for once enabled to embark at a quarter past five o'clock. The river having fell, since yesterday morn- ing, about four feet, we wish to improve every moment of time previous to its entire fall. We proceeded extremely well, passed the Saline river on the east, and encamped opposite La Belle Roche on the west shore. This daywi passed many beautiful cliffs'on both sides of the river, savj a bear and wolf swimming the river. I employed mj part of the day in translating into French a talk of gene-j ral Wilkinson' to the Cheveux Blanche. Distance 21| miles. 8//j August, Friday, — ^We embarked iO minutes five o'clock. Found the river had fallen about two fa during the night. At the confluence of the Youngar witi the Osage river we breakfasted. Encamped at night on i bar. Distance 2 1 miles. aa ti:;- 9th August, Saturday, — ^We embarked at fiv^bVlbcl; and at half past six o'clock met the Indians and our ge tlemen. I'hey had met with nothing extraordinary. Thci had killed in their excursion seven deer- and three We proceeded to an old wintering ground, where the -were eight houses, which were occfupied last winter 1 I — , who had not been able to proceed any higi for want of water. Passed the Old Man's Rapids, belo which, on the west shore, are some beaiitiful cliflfs.' Din >vith the Indians, after which we passed Upper Gratl rdinary. [nd three |d, where tb< lastwinter teed any higl Rapids, bell Upper Gra' TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 121 river on the west, Pottoe river on the east. Sparks went out to hunt, and did not arrive at our encampment, nor did the Indians. Distance 25 niles. ' lOtb August i Sunday.^-Emhzrked a quarter past five o'clock, when the sun shone out very clearly ; but in fif- teen minutes it began to rain, and continued to rain very hard until one o'clock. Passed the Indians, who were en- camped on the west shore, about half a mile, and halted for them. They all forded the river but Sans OrdUe, who In-ought his wife up to the beats, and informed me that Sparks had encamped with them, but left them early to return hi search t)f us. We proceeded afi:er breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment we were embarking. The Indians traversing the country on the east had sent Sparks with Sans Oreille. About two o'clock A. M. split a piaak in the bottom of the batteaux. Unloaded and turned her up, repaired the breach, ahd continued on. the route : by four o'clock found the Indians behind a large island : We made no stop, and they followed us. We en^^ amped together on a bar, where we pi^oposed halting to our com, &c. on Monday. Killed four deer. Dis- ice 18 1-2 miles. » 11th August, Mo«^<2y.r-We continued here to dry ur com and baggage. This morning we had a match t shooting : the prize offered to the successful person as a jacket and a twist of tobacco, which I myself as so fortunate as to win^ I made the articles, however, present to the young fellow who waited on me. Afte?* is, takii:g Huddleson with me, I went out to hunt : after ivelling ai)out twelve miles we arrived at the river, al- st exhausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by inking plentifully of the water, and was rendered so ex- emely imwell by it, that I was scarce capable of pursuing y route to the camp. On arriving opposite it, I swam the Q 3 '<■ t; 5;. •' \(\ 11 J i.. :i iiir: (M>i if II V 'm Sir' i i!^, II tax JdURNAL OF A VOYAGE river, frcaci which I experienced considerablv relief. The party mformed me dney had found the heat very oppress S sive, and the mercury, at sun-down, was ^125" Reaumer. This day, for the first time, I saw trout west of the Alle- gfaeny mountains. Reloaded our boats, and finished two new oars, which were requisite. 12tfo August, Tuesday.^— Frey'ioMsly to our embarlo. iSon, which took place at half past five o'clock, I was obliged to convince my red brethren that, if I protected dieni, I would not suffer them to plunder my men with impunity, for the chief had got one of my lads' tin cups attached to his baggage, and notwithsiandilfg it was marked with die inidals of the soldier's name, he refused to give it u|). On which I requested the interpreter to tell j him, *' that I had no idea that he had purloined the cup,] but supposed some othier person had attached it to*his l^ag- ga^e; biitthat, knowing it to be my soldier's, I requested I him to deliver it up, or I should be obliged to take other measures to obtain it." This had the desired effect ; fori I certaxitiy should hav6 put my threats into execution froml this principle, formed from my experience during my inj course with Indians, that if you have justice m your sidiX and do not enforce it, they universally despise you, Whenl we stopped for dinner, one of my men took his gun and! went out J not having returned when we were ready toj rtopped to dine at two o'^iock. During the time we halted, the river rose over the flat bar, on which we were.: this, if we had no other proof, would convince us we were near the head of the river, as the I'ain must have reached it. We made almost a perfect circle, so that I do not believe we were, at night, three miles from where we encamped last night. This day, for the first time, we have prairie hills. Distance 13 miles. I4fth August, Thursday, — Embarked at half past five o'clock. Passed the Park, which is ten miles rounds and I not more than three quarters of a mile across, bearing from j S. 5° E. to due N. At its head we breakfasted, and just as we were about to put off we saw and brought to a canoe manned with three engagees of Mr. . - , who in- [formed us that the Little Osage; had marched a war party [against the Kans, and the Grand Osagc^a party against our [citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrotti by them to the [general'* and ail friends* Gave the poor fellows soiiie |whiskey and eight quarts of corii, they having had only iro turkies for four days. We left them and proceeded, passing onour east some of the largest cedars I ever sawf. ^ame on very well in the afternoon, and encamped on an jLsland above Turkey island. Distance 28 miles* • See appendix to part II; [No. 8.] page 37. 1 . n '! !■; ' » A-: i ' J >• \- Ki ; \i ?;■' ' iiJ I ' J }■' u t If i* ,r H ;:i ■■ii" ■ 1' I I! f. ;if t34 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE IStb August f Friday, — ^We embarked at five o'clock, and at eight o'clock met the Indians and the gentlemen who accompanied them. Found all well. They had been joined by their friends and relatives from the village, with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant Wilkinson informed'me that their meeting was very tender and aflfec- tionate — ^** Wives throwing themselves into the arms of their husbasds, parents embracing their children, and chil- dren their parents, brothers and sisters meeting, one from captivity, the others fronk the towns— they, at the same time, returning thanks to the Go0^ Go^ for having brought them once more together ;" in short, the toute ensemblt was such as to make polished society blush, when com- j pared with those savages, in whom the passions of the mind, either joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, have their full scope: why can we not correct the baneful passions, withbut weakening the good ? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which he remarked, " Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. Who did this? was it the Spaniards? No. The French ? No. Had either of those people been go-l vernors of the country, your relatives might have rottedl in captivity, and you never would have seen them ; but thel Americans stretched forth their hands, and they are rej turned to you ! ! What can you do in return for all thit| goodness? Nothing: all your lives would not suffice tol repay their goodness." This man had children in captij vity, not one of whom were we Able to obtain for him. The chief then requested that lieutenant Wilkinsoo| and Dr. Robinson might be permitted to accompany then by land, which I consented to. Wrote a letter to the Che veux Blanche, by lieutenant Wilkinson. When we parte (after delivering the Indians their baggage) Sans Oreiilej put an Indian on board^ to hunt^ or obey any other com] inan< o'cio ersaj and e tance 1 •The fcmiel de hi putatioo of nor Lewis. WUeman. "ho, for his , li'position, ititle him to 3'clock, ntlemen ladbeen ,ge, with rilkinson Lnd affeo- arms of and cWl- one from the same ig brougbt lie ensembk when com- »f the mind, e their full )ns,\vithUit m a speech, your wives, ieemed from iards ? No. pie been go- have rotted] lem -, but the] they are re- rn for all thisl not suffice to dren in captiJ n for him. antWilkinsonj :ompany thei ter to the Cb( henwepartt ) SansOrolle any other coffl^ TO THE SOURCES OP THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. 12 j mands I might have for him. We stopped at elevei o'clock to dry our baggage. Found our biscuit and crzck- ers almost all ruined. Put off at half past lour o'clock, and encamped at three quarters past five o'clock. Dis- tance 15 1-2 miles. j 1 6t/j August, Saturday. — ^We embarked at fit* o'clock and came on extremely well in the barge to a French hundng camp (evacuated), twelve miles to bfeak^t, the batteaux coming up late : we exchanged hands. Abdut twelve o'clock passed the grand fork, which is equal in size to the one on which we pursued our route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's Nest, on the west shore aboye the forks. The batteaux having gaini^ nearly half an hour, the crews are convinced that it is iK>t the boat, but men who make the difference : each take their own boat, after which we proceeded very well, the water being good and men i^ spirits. S&w an elk on the shore, also met an old man alone hunting, from whom we obtained no information of consequence. Encamped on the west shore at Mine river. Passed the place where the chief, called the Belle Oiseau, and others were killed.* Distance 3^ miles. I nt/j Augmt, Sunday, — ^We embarked at five o'clock and came twelve miles to breakfast. At four o'clock ar- ived at ten French houses on the east shore, where was tlhen residing a Sac, who was married to an Osage femme and spoke French only. We afterwards passed the pod- * The BilU Oheau was killed by the Sacs In the year 1804, In a boat «f bmiel de Liz% when on his way down to St. Louis, in order to join the first de- putation of his nation, who were forwarded to the seat of government by gover« Dor Lewis. A particular relation of the event, no doubt, has been given by that geideman. This chief had'a son who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, vho, for his honorable deportment, attachment to our government, amiableness of lisposition, and the respect and esteem in which he was held by his compeers, otitic hun to the attention of our agents to his nar.;on. f 111' i 1 5 ■ I 't \ • r \ t 'i"\ i ■: '' 14 ( ■, \it . roUKNAI. OF K VOVAGF. * . i;.«««lv had his fort, not* w* 1» of wWch «»8 renamng. me spo 6 ,j^ Jf^e superior gro-th of vege»««^J-,^ i. . S'cne soUd bed of '^<»^^'^CcV.o the viUage of tte oW- stopped « nu« o doA» ^ ^ 4 ,eco»l fork of Ae r^« a^ ™^ . ^, ,eft (A. S«l f»'' '-Tf e^X Xt more than 50 o, « 0,^ we pursued) N. 60 w. j^^tut pUntyi:* . f^ in wdth, very full of old tre ^ ^^i ^. Observed *ero^«»^-J-^^„^ „^ ,.d„ck, Wilkinson crossed, we p ... -je across the nver.l ,hen «e.e«= halted by aarge^j;^^ ^^, Osagd Dispatched Baroney to *«;'"*8 ^^ ,^ to^ocurehorsestotakeourb^^ene^^^^ I ^Uaded our .^^«'^ »;^;d at our camp, the J ■Wi^inson, «'* ^"""'"ff ' _..„ss from the general,'! ^eTof whom pre^nted n- an ^f^^^^ ^^^^ ^ J ^letters from my """^ ^ j, ^ violent head^ It commenced raming, ^« i appendix to part 11. LN«.»-]P»l^* 38. commenc TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. 137 narked erbaidL isatery ■e of t£e Vecame at shorci a pcairicB Atablishment, at which we arriTcd about four o'clock, and commenced pitching our encampment near the edge of the prairie, when I was informed that three men had arrived from St. Louis, sent by Manuel de Liza. I diiqpGitched lieu- tenant Wilkinson to the village, with Baroney, who brought to camp the man who had charge of the others from St. Louis : he having no passport, I detained him until further cdhsideration. Our reception by the Osage was flatter- ing, and particularly by the White Hair and our fellow- travellers. This evening there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an express from the Arkansaw, who brought the news that a boat, ascending that river^ had been fired on, and had two white men killed and two wounded, and that the brother-in-law of the Cheveux Blanche, who happened to be on board, was also killed, his put the whole village in mourning. 20th August, Wednesday.^^Ahout twelve o'cbck I ispatched Baroney for the chiefs of the Grand village, in )Tder to give the general's parole to the Cheveux Blanche, so a young man to the village of the Little Osage. The Ihcveux Blanche and his people arrived about three 'clock, and after waiting some time for the Wind and his ple^ I ju«t Informed the chi«4 ^ hat 1 had merely assem- naoned at ouiHled them to deliver the pare )e c^ the general, and present mt head-acbe.H)e marks of distinction intended for the Cheveux Blanche d his son, hanging a gnmd medal round the neck of the tter. The packets comntttted to my charge for the rela- ns of the deceased Osages, were then delivered to them, e widow making the distribution. It must be remarked lat I had merely requested the. Cheveux Blanche to com.e aded and too»h his son, and receive the general's message ; but iii- de Liza had iufcd of coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by men, to all of whom we were obliged to give some- ^ to drink. When the council was over we mounted ' past five , passed ,the rigte icleftCthel a5Oot60l i plenty \^ i Ueuienaati ne o'clock,! ,ss the river.] rand Osage,! o the towns',! ^ lieutenartj amp,thefoi-I the general,* I great fordl ced very earb atoneo'cloci O.or 50 in< ir i [I ^ ; 1 I i 1 ^ I 11 1^ If II m p ' 'I I ■.11 138 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE fc. , ^ our horses and rode to the village, and halted at the quar- ters of the chief, where we were regaled with boiled pumpkins : then we went to two differ^t houses, and were invited to many others, but dech'ned, promising that I would pay them a visit, previous to my departure, and spend the whole day. We then returned to camp. After enquiring of White Hair if the men of Manuel de Liza had any ostensible object in view, he informed me that tU^ had tsiily said to him that they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the autumn. I concluded to take the depo- sition of Babtiste Larme as to the manner in which he vm employed by Manuel de Liza, and forward the same to Dr. Brown and the attorney-general of Louisiana, and per- mit the men to return to St. Louis, as k was impossible for me to detach a party with them as prisoners. | 21st August, Thursday. — ^In the morning White Hair paid us a visit, and brought us a present of corn, meat, and grease, and we invited him, his son, and son-in-law to bireakfast with us, and gave his companions something to eat. I then wrote a number of letters to send by express, and enclosed the deposition of Larme. In the sdtemoon we rode to the village of the Little Osage, and were re- ceived by our fellow-travellers with true hospitality. Re- turned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain, thunder and lightning commenced, and continued with extraordinary violence until half past nine o'clock. It was with great difficulty we were enabled to keep our tents from blowing down. The place prepared for an ob- servatory was carried away. 22d August, Friday. — ^Preparing in the morning for the council, and committing to paper the heads of thej subject on which I intended to speak. The chiefs of thi Little Osage arrived about one o'clock, also the interpretei of the Osage Osage. ceremc the gei for not the two both, i advice oi ceiVed m Cheveux give me a same amo himself to conduct, 1 States, and I deemed caj to your vi town in th^ pfPty, but ^'ving some reprimand i "le one >y opimon,! »d the Ch7 'yAeformj [alias the m 'ust here ol Je» accompJ ie geograpjr =«ved that, ^ \ the Gran 'on and t j TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. 129 of the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that the Grand Osage had expected us at their village vrith the Little Osage. The Cheveux Blanche arrives with his chiefs. The ceremony of the council being arranged, I delivered them the general's parole forwarded by express. My reason for not delivering it until this time was, in order to have the two villages together, as it was equally interesting to both. After this I explained at large the will, wishes, and advice of their Great Father^ and the mode which Ipcon- ceived most applicable to carry them into effect. The Cheveux Blanche replied in a few words, and promised to give me a full reply to-morrow;. The Wind replied to the same amount ; after which the Cheveux Blanche addressed himself to the Wind as follows ;— *« I am shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy, you who have lately come from the : States, and should have been wise \ but you led the re- deemed captives, with an officer of the United States, [to your village, instead of bringing them through my [town in the first instance." To this the Wind made no [reply, but left his seat shortly after under pretence of giving some orders to his young men. I conceived this reprimand intended barely to shew us the superiority of iie one and inferiority of the other, and originated, in ly opinion, from an altercation of lieutenant Wilkinson id the Cheveux Blanche, in which allusions were made y the former, on the friendly conduct of the Little Chief y keep ourjalias the Wind) wlien compared to that of the latter. I ^"7 r-y an ob-Bnust here observe that when the chiefs and prisoners left e, accompanied by lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not know the mormngWie geographical situation of the two villages, but con- heads of thefcved that, in going to the Little Village, thiey would pass Vuefs of thwy the Grand Village^ and of course that lieutenant Wil- lie interpret€#nson and the chief would arrange the affair properly. •quar- boiled dwere that I re, and After de lizcL hattlfty irould be he depo- hhewto . same to , and per- mpossibk \ imteHar orn, tneat, ^n-in-lawto mething to by express, e afternoon nd were re. taUty. Re rm of A tinued with o'clock, li to > «,; ' I KH r ;^.^"„ 1 pi .^1 l< ,( 1 n JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE "° J I exDCCted to have receivea ^adJusu't, S''.'"'-*C^'rmy demands ; but re- from the chiefs the,r ''"7J'^„'° "Urming that the, immersions of J-Pf ^ ^'^'!^^; „early half the day m ^,h August, S««^''>--^f "^e ielescopic sights of ^jus-Sng the line of c-^^— -^^,, evening, and ^. ,4 .heodohte. It l';^" ^ 7,o,ered, I -as so unfot^ thoftgh the sky ■^'l nf !TI immersion and (aUhough „na« as to miss ^^^""^ ° „^" "^"^ersion also. ^ clear in the i"termed«te per^^J ^.y^^^ ^^^ „ade ,p informed by Baroney that tn ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ elevenhorses for us ^^ J ^^:„,„\« and son of A. preter, accompamed by he .^^^^^^ ^^ tta V.heveux Blanche, came to camp_^ ^^^ ^ „f ^^e B,j there vrere no horses to be go Osage.t •rBari'—p-':::;, _>„. ,iu... .*=.", .- »,r.*j The »».-" 0«r TTJ ~^^„,T, „„pVT «Uh ,.« «,».., bu. W| „„ <» m.. .» •».'»";'t,^' „ U potion tor ,o«r ,.,.p- ,^ ... o»t"' •«"* '- •'"' trb:.:^".':: or *i ch.. -h L..»er.-««'' '•f^,°^;L ;Mtenou.rfa,nger! A..O *« , 'li'iin celved but re- it they djusted ridional ssed the ; day m sights of r, and al- so unfor [aUhough I o. Iwas I made ifp , the inter, ion of the ed me that of the . of the Chevctl ,l2. .. I am cowl our chief hatl^sl uinish hoM«,fe| nan after the Cli^l pityonmyf*] equest { hut 1 " to bring yo" H cand giveyoo'l^ Mtion.merclyioJ „V.ghtsee«l«t4 their chief* to follj tomakepe*"*' AstotheirhonI . ., but it i* w""n TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 131 25//j August, Monday, — ^In the morning we were vi- sited by the Cheveux Blanche and three or four of his chiefs, who were pleased to accord to my demands. He found much difficulty in informing me that, in all his vil- lage, he could only raise four horses, but that w? should be accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I then ex- pressed to him the difference of our expectations from the reality. He remained yntil after twelve o'clock, when I went to the Little Osage village, and was receivigd with great friendship by the chief. Remained all night at the house of Tuttasuggy. Took the census.* 26//> August, Tuesday, — Rose early and found my friends in council, which was merely relative to our horses.' The chief then declared their determination to me, and that h . S'^^^self gave me one horse, and lent me eight more to c ui > y our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old batteaux tor 100 dollars, in merchandise, which I conceived infinitely preferable to leaving her to the uncer- tain safe-guard of the Indians. About this time we re- ceived the news that the party of Potowatomies were dis- covered to be near the towns* I gave them the best advice I was capable of giving, and then returned to our camp. ' 27/^ August, VVednesdhy. — Spent in arranging oiu* baggage for the horses. Received four horses from the Little Village and two from the Big Village. In the even- ing lieutenant Wilkinson rode to the* Grand Village. I observed two immersions of Jupiter's satellites. 28/Z> August, Thursday. — ^Writing to the secretary at whether I can pay them here, or give them an order on the (uperintendant of In- dian aflairs at St. Louis : but this I do not now wish them to be nude acquainted 1 with. * See Statistical Tables, .Appendix to part 11. page 53, and opposite page s^. ;' *fi ! i 1 4 . \, M ! t 132 jqOrnal of a voyage ti !iii h , ■ r:!;|-J 'i'^'^ ''I i m^ ' 3 i: : .£i war and the general, and making arrangements for our departure. Visited by the Wind and Sans Oreille. .29th August, JFr/J/iy.—- Forenoon writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. Robinson and myself went to the Grand Villajge,, at which we saw the great medicine dance. Re- raaihed the village all night. , SOtb August, Saturday. — Returned to the camp after settling all my affairs at the town. Sealed up our dis* patches and sent off the general's express.* In the after- noon we were visited by the principal men of the Little Village and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, and made the donations which I conceived requisite to the dif< ferent Indians, oh account of horses, &c. - 2^}st August, Sunday. — ^Arranging our packs and loading our horses, in order to fit our loads, as we ex- pected to march on the morrow. Up late writing letters. • 1st September, Monday. — ^StrUck our tents early in the morning, and commenced loading our horses. We now discovered that an Indian had stolen a large black horse^ which t the Cheveux Blanche had presented to lieutenant Willyijson. I mounted a horse to pursue him ; but the interpreter sent to town, and the chiefs wife sent another in its place. We left the place about twelve o'clock with fifteen loaded horses, our party consisting of two lieute- nants, one doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, fifteen pri- vates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and ft)ur chiefs of| the Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 warriors and onel woman. We crossed tlie Grand Osage fork and a prairie N. 80*" W. five miles to the fork of the Little Osage. Joined by Sans Oreille and seven Little Osage, all of whoml I equipped for the march. Distance 8 miles. 2d September, Thi.rsday. — Marched at six o'clock.! Halted at ten o'clock, and two o'clock on the side of th( '* Sec Appcndi* to part II. [No. lo.] page 40. [Nos. II and la.] page 4J' creel Whii Chou form first t panied ali nig] feaug; 'I tfteliti. Afr. He overtooJ first cam tigued, V i'ed and fa'es. Dj the morni Sans Ore 3nd proc© ^'/elveo'c was overta been able sent two hi |^«g jealc^ -Afier maka seif took of stream, unt [tant about 'asonofclel circumfer %htfully "lutiful plal 4 ■.;'.[ TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. J33 or our fs. In anp after our dis- the aftcf . :he Little flag, and to tHe dif- jacks and as we ex- ing letteW. early in *^' Wenovf iack borsej lieutenant 1 ._. butthel ;nt another! 'clock with two lieute| L fifteen pti- .ur chiefs of |iors and onel _id a pradriel Attle Osage, anofwhoml six o'cloctl lesideof tli« creek, our route having been all the time on its borders. Whilst there I was informed by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it proper for me to return, v hich I did; accompanied by Baroney, first to the Little Village ; from whence we were accom- panied by the Wind to the Big Village, where we remained all night at the lodge of the Cheveux Blanche. Mr. Chou- teau gav J us all the news ; after which I scrawled a letter to the general and my friends. 3d September, Wednesday. — Rose early, and went to the Lit;. "e Village to breakfast. After giving my letters to Mr. Henry, and arranging my affairs, we proceeded, and overtook our party at two o'clock. They had lefi: their first camp about four miles. Our horses being much fa- tigued, we concluded to remain all night. Sent out our red and white hunters, all of whom only killed two tur- kies. Distance 4 miles. 4tl) September, Thursday,— -When about to march in the morning, one of our horses was missing, and we left Sans Oreille, with the two Pawnees, to search for him, and proceeded till about nme o'clock ; then stopped until t' /elve o'clock, and then marched. In about half an hour '^s overtaken and informed that Sans Oreille lad not been able to find our horse ; on which we encamped, and sent two horses back for the load. One of the Indians, being jealous of his wife, sent her back to the village. After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and my- self took our horses and followed the course of the little stream, until we arrived at the Grand river, which was dis- Itant about six miles. We here, found a most delightful >ason of clear water, of 25 paces diameter and about 100 circumference, in which we bathed ; found it deep and lelightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever formed a more lutiful place for a farm. We returaed to camp about i 1 i| ]34 jpURNAIu; Of A VOYAGE > V dusk, when I was informed that some of the Indians had been dreaming and wished to return. Killed one deer, one turkey, one racoon. Distance 1 3 miles. 5t/j September, Friday, — In the morning our Little Osage all rrnie to a determination to return, and, much to my surp. », Sans Oreille amongst the rest ! I had given an order ok the chiefs fur the lost horse to be delivered to Sans Oreille's wife, previously to my knowing that he was going back, but took from him his gun, and the guns from all the others also. In about five miles we struck a beau- tiful hill, which bears south on the prairie : its elevation I suppose, to be ^00 feet. From its summit the view is sublime to tl j east and south-east. We waited on this hill to breakfast, and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer on the rise, which was soon roasting befc^n , the fire. Here another Indian wished to return and take his horse with him, which, as we had so few, I could not! allovv, for he had already recdved a gun for the use of hisi horse. I told him he might return, but his hors^ would! go to the Pawnees. We marched, leaving the, Osagel trace, >yhich we had hitlierto followed, and crossed the UM to a creek which was almost ,dry. Descended it to th(| main river, where we dined. 1^^ ^^^^^"^^^^'^^^ Indiasj came up, and put on an air of satisfaction and content,! We again marched about six miles further, and encanipedl at the head of a small creek, about half a mile fn water. 1^/istance 19 miles. 6th September, Saturday.— 'We marched at half pai six o'clock, and arrived at a large fork of the little Osaj river, where we breakfasted. In the holes in the creek' discovered many fish, which, from the stripes on their bd l^es, and their spots, I supposed to be trout and bass : thi were twelve inches long. This brought to mind the ni cessity of a net, which would have frequently alTordi r Little i, much ad given iveredto It he was uns from k. a beau- jlevationl ve view is ed on this for water. dngbef<^f^| m and take I 1 x:ould noil leuseofhisl tiors'' wouldl r the, Osagel jsedthehilkj ed it to tkl ented Ift^l And contenil lid encampeil mile froi^l 1 at half F e little Osagi . the creek ;s on their bel ,ndbass:tl^^ . mind the n« ,emly affor^^^ to THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW,&c. 135 subsistence to the whbfe jjarty. We halted at one o'clock and remained until four o'clock. Being told that we could not arrive at any water, we here filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge, between the waters of the Osage and Arkansaw (alias White river), the dry branches of which interlock within 20 yards of each other. The prospect from the dividing ridge to the east and south-east is sublime. The prairie rising and falling in regular swells, as far as the tiight cin extend, produces a very beautiful appearance. We left our course, and struck down to the south-west on a small creek, or rather a puddle of water. Killed one deer. Distance 20 miles. 1th September, Sunday, — We left this at half past six o'clock, before which we had a difficulty with ti son of the chief, which was accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large fork and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on atid encamped on a fine stream, where we swam our horses and bathed ourselves. Killed four deer. Distance 1.5 miles. ^th September, Monday. — Marched early, and arrived at a grand fork of the White river. The Indians were all discontented : we had taken the wrong ford ; but, as they were dispersed through the woods, we could not be go- verned by their movements. Previously to our leaving the camp, the son of the Chevrux Blanche proposed r^um- ing, and offered no other reason than that he felt too lazy to perform the route. The reason I offered to prevent his going was ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter, who deprived us of one horse. His return left us without any chief or man of consideration, except the son of the Belle OiseiSiu, who was but a lad. The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, and filled with self pride : he certainly should have considered it as an honor 'f.y a, u >. 19 J • .*1 I ■■lift i»f 41 136 JOURNAL OF ^ VOYAGE If m-] 'i< ' L to be sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Ano< ther Indian, who owned one of our horses, wished to re- tum with him, which was positively refused him *, but fearing he might steal him, I contented him with a pre- sent. We marched, and made the second branch, cross- ing one prairie twelve miles, in which we suffered much with drought. Distance 22 miles. 9th September^ Tuesday. — Marched at seven o'clock, and struck a large creek at eleven miles distance. On holding a council, it was determined to ascend this creek to the highest point of water, and then strike across to a large river of the Arkansawv We ascended four miles and a half, and encamped. Killed one cabrie, two deer, twoturkies. Distance 12 miles. lOtb September, Wednesday. — ^Marched early. Struck and passed the divide between the Grand river and th^ Verdegris river. Stopped to breakfast on a small stream of the latter ; after which we marched and encamped on the fourth small stream. Killed one elk, one deer. Dis- 1 tance 21 miles. iltb September, Thursday. — ^Passed four branches I and over high hilly prairies. Encamped at night on a large branch of Grand river. Killed one cabrie, one deer.| Distance 17 miles. 12th September, ir/V/jy.— Commenced our march at seven o'clock. Passed very ruff flint hills, ^y feet blis- 1 tered and very sore. I stood on a hill, and in one view below me saw buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and panthers. Encamped on the main branch of Grand river, which had i very steep banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson^ Bradley, | and Baroney arrived after dusk, having killed three buf- falo, which, with one I killed, and two by the Indians, | made six ; tf^e Indians alledging it was the Kans' hunting- [i'clock, :e. On is creek ross to a )ur nules :wo deer, TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. iW groun()> therefore they would destroy all the game. they possibly could. Distance 18 miles. IStb Septanber^ Sa^urday,-^LAte in marching, it hav- ing every appearance of rain. Halted to dine on a branch of Grand river. Marched again . at half past ' two o'clock, and halted at five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson and one of our Pawnees to the vill^e to-morrow. Killed six buffalo, one elk» and three deer. Distance 9 mile^. Htjif Slumber, Sunday, — ^The doctor and Frank (a young Pawnee) marched for the village at day-light j we at half past six o'clock. Halted at one o'clock. On the march we were continually passing through large herds of buffalo, elk> and cabrie ; and I have no doubt but one hun- ter could support 200 men. I prevented the men shoot- ing at the game, not merely because of the scarcity of am- munition, but, as I conceived, the laws of morality forbid it also. Encamped at sun-set on the main branch of White river hitherto called Grand river. Killed one buffalo and lone cabrie. Distance 21 miles. 15tb September, Monday. ^-M^ched at seven o'clock [passed a very large Kans encampment, evacuated, \"hich [had been occuj^ed last summer. Proceeded on to the di- Ividing ridge, between the waters of the White river and [the Kans. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, Iwhich was strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on the [west side of said ridge we found spa springs. Halted at lone o'clock, very much against the inclination of the lOsage, who, from the running of the buffalo, conceived a party of the Kans to.be near. Killed two buffalo. Dis- iiance IS miles. I6th September, Tuesday. — Marched late, and in about |four miles and a half distance, came to a very handsome )ranch of water, at which we stopped and remained until fter two o'clock, when we marched and crossed two W^ ■■;■ 4't 1i i m >Hl i« . tl I ,1 tl JOURNAL O^ A VOVAGE 138 . . , j^t the second creer ^ i,«, Encamped on the third. ^3,^ a horse wa ^ ^^^^^^ ^f ^^^'^ distance 13 miles. Sfo' lockit appeared tobe 25or^ .^ ^ ^,^ ,„, So. W^'^"^^ ? ""TW<„.-Marched a. our usv^ 18,/>S.^«mfer,TA«"^^ 1, branch or* hour, and at twelve o'clock ha^K ^.^^^ ^j, ^te ^Z«Wch was strongly '"P^m^ge to meet us. VJ. . Sr- expected the pe.^^o^l'<=^^/,<,„,_e being over. nJrched agJn at on o ctock ^^ ^^^^ „^ j continued series of hms J branch. M at night before we arnved a^ ^ ^,,,. cc. nearW ten o'clock before we .^^ ^i^s ;^cld raining ^ ^"'^.^^^^having comnvenced « I9tb September, Vriaay. ^^^ ^^^ tents. ingeS ,wfsecu.dour^ggj;»f,P,,„„ .he whd^ The rJn continued «'*°»*^,"^^d ourselves in rea 20tb September, Saturd^.^^lt appearing as if we pos- sibly might have a clear day, I ordered our baggage spread abroad to dry ; but it shortly after clouded up and com- menced raining. The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on the prairies ; upon which we dispatched a hunter on horseback in pursuit of him, also some hunters out on foot, and before night (hey killed three buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in and jerked or dried by the fire. It continued showery until afternoon, when we put our baggage again in a position to dry, and remained en- camped. The detention of the doctor and our Pawnee ambassador began to be a serious matter of consideration. 2lst September f Sunday, — ^We marched at eight o*clook, although every appearance of rain, and at eleven o'clock passed a large creek remarkably salt. Stopped at one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our in- terpreter having killed an elk, we sent out for some meat, which detained us so late that I concluded it best to en- camp where we were, in preference to running the risk of finding no water. Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked with a severe head head-ache and slight fever. One of my men had been attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on the 18th, and was still ill. We were uiformed by an Osage woman that two of the Indians were conspiring to desert us in the night and steal some of our horses, one of whom was her husband. We engaged her as our spy. LThus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our guard igainst our own companions and fellow-travellers, men of nation highly favored by the United States, but whom I )elieve to be a faithless set of poltrons, incapable of a [reat and generous action. Among them, indeed, there lay be some exceptions. In the evening, finding that the two Indians above nentioned had made all preparations to depart, I sent for k w J. \% %rM V If- li It •* ' '4 1 -' »f f • 1 1 1 ' " ' ] V' .1 • * 1. v 140 JOURNAL OP A VOYAGE one of tfieilft, who owned a hol^e and had received a gun and other property for his hkty and told him, ** I knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert, I should take car^ to retain his horse ; that as for himself, he might leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied, *' that he was a marif that he always performed his promises j that he had never said he would return, but that he would follow me to the Pawnee village, which he intended to do." He then brought his baggage and put it under charge of the sentinel, and slept by my fire ; but notvrithstanding I had him well watched. Killed one elk. Distance 10 miles. 22d September, Monday. — ^We did not march until eight o'clock, owing to the indisposition of lieutenant Wil. kinson. At eleven waited to dine. Light mists of rain, with flying clouds. We marched again at three o'clock, and continued our route twelve miles to the first branch of the republican fork. Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us that the chief had left the village the* day after the doc- tor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and many people, and had taken his course to the north of our route ; conse- quently we had missed each other. He likewise informed that the Tttaus had recently killed • six Pawnees, the Kans had stolen some horses, and that a party of 3O0 Spaniards had lately been as far as the Sabine j but for what purpose unknown. Distance 1 1 miles. 23d September, Tuesday. — Marched early and passed a large! fork of the Kans river, which I suppose to be the one generally called Solomon's. One of our horses fell into the water and wet his load. Halted at ten o'clock onl a branch of this fork. We marched at half past onel o'clock, and encamped at sun-down, on a stream where| we had a great difficulty to find water. We were over taken his ho s horsey Frank bge)ai chief ai day,anc three o' ^em wo Washing sun-set 01 ''eraiPliM ^o meat, blankets, only had A otherwise < 25//J i ftour, and ^vhich the I yet disco ve [f^ey went. When village, we [receiving [here. The before whicj 'ce in ad{ danced to w |roops, and pe gestures! mrge. Tl f^ivanced in i ^as CaracteA '('*, urch until [iant"Wil- 5 of nun, ,e o'clock, I : branch of I ) informed er the doc- leople, and I ite ; consC'l ie informedl Lwnees, the] irty of 3O0 ,. but for and passed [se to be thel Ir horses m [n o'clock on] [alf past one Stream where tq were over- TO THU SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. 14t taken bf a Patmee, who encamped with us. He offered his hone for our use. Dkrtance 21 miles. 9^B Septtmher, Wednesday, ^-Vft could not find our horsey until late, when we marched. Before noon met Frank (who had accompanied Dr. Robinson to the vil- lage) and three other Pawnees, who informed us that the chief and his party had only arrived at the village yester- day, and had dispatched them out in search of us. BdRare three o*cIock we were joined by several Pawnees : one of them wore a scarlet coat, with a small medal of general Washington, and a Spanish medal also. We encamped at sun-set on a middle sized branch, and were joined by se- veral Pawnees in the evening, who brought us some buf- falo meat. Here we saw some mules, horses, bridles and blankets, which they obtained of the Spaniards. Few only had breech cloths^ most being wrapped in buffalo robes, otherwise quite naked. Distance 18 miles. '25th September, Thursday,— Vfe marched at a good hour, and in about eight miles struck a very large road on which the Spanish troops returned and on which we could yet discover the grass beaten down in the direction which they went. When we arrived within about three miles of the village, we were requested to remain, as the ceremcMiy of receiving the Osage into the towns was to be performed Ihere. There was a small circular spot, clear of grass, efore which the Osage sat down. We were a small dis- nce in advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then ad- anced to within a mile of us, and halted, divided into two roops, and came on each flank at full" charge, making all he gestures and performing the manoeuvres of a real war harge. They then encircled us around, and the chief dvanced in the centre and gave us his hand : his name as CaracterUh, Tie ^as accompanied by his two sons *i! <;' 1* "I " F ' '' i 1 -In t 143 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE f< v % :ti ' [t sM i»-,'::5- ;i!? 1- ■ ill;?';; and a chief by the name of bkatappe. The Osage were still seated ; but the Belle Oiseau then rose and came for. ward with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two from it. We then proceeded on : the chief, lieutenant Wilkinson and myself in front ; my serjeam, on a white horse, next with the colors ; then our horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each side, running races, &c. When w<* arrived- on the liill over the town we were again halted, and the Osage seated in a row, when each Pawnee who intended so to do presented them with a horse, gave a pipe to smoke to the Osage to whom he had made the present. In this manner were eight horses given. Lieutenant Wilkinson then pro. eeeded on with the party to the river above the town, and encamped. As the chief had invited us to his lodge to eat, we thought it proper for one to go. At the lodge he gave me many particulars which were interesting to us, re- lative to the late visit of the Spaniards.* 1 went up to our I • I will here attempt to give some memoranda of this expedition, which w« the most important ever carried on from the province of Kew Mexico, and in fact the only one directed north>east, except that mentioned by the abbe Raynal (in hu history of the Indies) to the Pawnees — of u hich see a more particular account hereafter. In the year 1806 our affairs with Spain began to wear a very serious aspect, and the troops of the two governments almost came to actual hostilities 01 the frontiers of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I was fitting out for my expedition from St Louis, where some of the Spanish ->missaries in that country transmitted | the information to Majar. Merior and the Spanish council at that place, who im- nicdiately forwarded on the information to the then commandant of Nacogdoches I (captain Sebastian Rodreriques), who forwarded it to colonel Cordero, by whom I it was transmitted to the scat of government. This information was peraonaliyl cor.imunicaced to me, as an instance of the rapid means they possessed of trans- 1 mitting the information relative to the occurrences transacting on our frontierij The expedition was then determined on, and had three objects in view : viz.— 1st. To descend the Red river, in order, if he met our expedition, to interccptl and turn us back, or should major Sparks and Mr. Freeman have missed tiie partifl (rom Nacogdoches, under the command of captain Viana, to oblige them to retuinl and not penetrate further into the country, or make thcnj prisoners of war. TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. H3 ; were ae f or- tooka e chief, erjeant, • horses rnees on don the .6 Osage so to do >ketothe is manner then pro- town, and i lodge to e lodge he g to us, re- t up to ow 1 camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee with me loaded with com for my men. Distance twelve miles. 2d. To explore and examine ^L the Internal parts of the country from the Qrontiert of the province of New Mexico to the Missouri, betv^een the La Platte 3d. To visit the Tetaus, Pawnees republic, Grand Pawnees ; Pawnee Ma- haws and Kans To the head chief of each of those nations : the commanding of> ficer bore flags, a commission ; grand medal, and four mules ; and with all of whom he had to renew the chains of ancient amity, which was said to have exis- ted between their father, his most Catholic majesty, and his children the red peo* pie. The commanding officers also bore positive orders to oblige all parties or per* sons in the above specified countries, either to retire from them into the acknow- ledged territories of the United States, or to make prisoners of them and conduct them into the province of N. Mexico, l.ieut. Don Facundo Malgares, the officer selected from the five internal provinces, to command this expedition, was an Euro- pean, ^his uncle, was one of the royal judges of the kingdom of New Spain) and had distinguished himself in several long expeditions against the Appachcsand other Indian nations, with whom the Spaniards were at war : added to these cir- comstaiices, he was a man of immense fortune, and generous in its disposal, al- most to profusion : possessed a liberal education, high sense of honor, and a dispo- sition formed for military enterprise. Thi? officer marched from the province of Biscay with lOO dragoons of the regular service, and at Santa Fe, (the place where the expedition was fitted out from) he was joined by 500 of the mounted militia of that province, armed after the manner described by my notes on that subject, and compleatly equipt with ammunition, &c. for six months ; each man leading with them .by order) two horses and one mule, the whole number of their beasts were two thousand and seventy five. They descended the Red rivet 233 leagues met the grand bands of the Tetaus ; held councils with them, then struck oif N. £■ and crossed the country to the Atkansiw, where lient. Malgares left 240 of his I nen, with the lame and tired horses, whilst he proceeded on with the rest to the Pawne^epublic ; here he was met by the chiefs and warriors of the Grand Paw- I nees ; held councils with the two nations, and presented them the flags, medals, I £cc. which were destined for them. He did not proccd on to the execution of his mission with the Pawnee Mahaws and Kans, as he represented to me, from the I poverty of their horses, aud the discontent of his own men, but as I conceive, from the suspicion and discontent which began to arise between the Spaniards and the Indians. The former wishing to revenge the death of FUl'uieuve and party, whilst Itiie latter possessed all the suspicious of conscious villainy deserving punfthment. I Malgares took .vith hini all the traders he found there from our country, some of I whom having been sent to Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at that place, ou Iniy arrival, and applied to me for means to return to St. I^ouls. Lieut. Malgares licturncd to Santa Fe the of October, when his militia was disbanded, but he Iremained in the vicinity of that place, until wc were brouj^ht in, when he, with ]iiragoous, became our cscoTt to th? scat of government. ■ " ' ■ .1* ?§ f !l44 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE r- J .— Wndine Qvuf encampment noteUgible as to .tuauon^e-ov^^^ ^^ ^ rie hUl. ''bout Ar^fo^rtte o^ ^^ .^^e for ,»ov.«<«u We sent our "'^'^'f'f^^uoon twelve .Kans.amY«l About three o'-^l"?^ " *' f „„ey that theyhad come to atthevUlage,andmformedBar«^ey^ ^lePa^vnees vUlage. meet us, hearing we were ^ ^^ eminence, from We pitched our camp upon ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ „^ whence we had "^^ "Itl^y^Athe chief, came to ^u„g. Intheevemng ^""""I^^^ed together, camp'to give us f °5^' ffjL^roney Jrivedfromtk 37»6 S.^«"*^'-' ^^f^^k 4h Characterish' and^.^ village about on^f^'^tTwe gave a dinner. I the. other chiefs, to ^^°\^j:X after which Ue* ,nade an appropnate presen .^ ,hem to town, nant Wilkinson and fi^^^ and returned. Appointed where we remained a lew no , ^ Q^g^_ ' to-morrow for the ■ut«"2 -^d^ a council of the K» ,3,. S^^7^;;^f;fr-S of the pipe of peac.| and Osage, and made «^em ^^ We receive! Two of the Kans ^peed to^«X / Made an oteer« a visit from the ch.ef of the v g^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ tion on an emersion of one 01 f ^ ^^^^ .9/* S.,«*-. ^^-t'j^rSesent not'lessthan 40. vrfth the Pawnees, at ^l"^^" J ^^^^ were extremely inl vvarriors, the "rcumstanc^ ^^ J^^ ^^^^^ yh teresting. T',e notes I «°j'J'^ ^//by the Spanish gJ ,^.U the Pawnee >«»°." 7;f;rechl to the differe^ vernment, together wuh aU n^ P ^^.^ J r^ey!£a':^«--^^^^^ ■ ■ fr.mtheKOvernorof New Mexico ^vasH * tharactcrlsh'8 commission from the go | SanuFc.l5th3uuc,l8o6. . .' TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. 145 had left several of the their flags in this village ; one of which was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand council, and that amongst various demands and charges I gave them, was, that the saici flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United States* flags be received and hoisted in its place. This probably was carrying the pride of nations a little too far, as there had so lately been a large force of Spanish cavalry at the village, which had made a great impression on the minds of the young men, as to their power, consequence, &c. which my appearance with 20 infantry was by no means calculated to remove. After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my dis- course, but were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the flag, " adding that it was impossible for " the nation to have two fathers ; that they must either be *** the children of the Spaniards or- acknowledge their " American father." After a silence of some time, an old man rose, went to the door, and took down the Spa- nish flag, and brought it and laid it at my feet, and then received the American flag and elevated it on the stafi^, which had lately borne the standard of his Catholic ma- jesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of whom, decidedly avow themselves to be under •and coundBthe American protection. Perceiving that every face in ess than 4O0B[he council was clouded with sorrow, as if some great na» xtremely injional calamity was about to befal them, I tbok up the con- council heliBested colors, and told them " that as they had now shewn Spanish go-B' themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great the differenW' American father, 1 did not wish to embarrass them erve here OW ^vith the Spaniards, for it was the wish of the Americans that their red brethren should remain peaceably round their own fires, and not embroil themselves in any dis- putes between the white people : and that for fear the Spaniards might return there in force again, I returned tment ;p»i- illage. vision. iLtrived •ome to vilUge. e, from as tram- cajneto from the and three :, I then jch Ueute- 1 to tovm, Appointed Osage. oftheKans of peace e receivei an obsem- ?V tes the Spaniard McxifO was dat(| ii-y [^ •{■ X iu JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE mh!^, " them their flag, but ^vith an mjunction that it should ** never be hoisted during our stay." At this there was a general shout of applause and the charge particularly at* tended to, 30th September, Tuesday^-^Rem^ed all day at the camp but sent Barpney to own, who informed me on his return that the chief apprarf-d to wish to thro »v great ob- stacles in our way. A ^;reut disturbance had taken place in the village, owing to one of the young Pawnees who lately came from the United States, (Frank) having taken the wife of an Osage and ran away with her. The chief, in whose lodge the Osage put up, was extremely en- raged, considering it a breach of hospitality to a person imder his roof, and threatened to kill Frank if he caught him. ■1st October, Wednesday. — ^Paid a visit to town, and had a very long conversation with the chief, who urged every thing in his power to induce us to turn back. Finally, be very candidly told us that the Spaniards wished to have gone flirther into our country, but he induced them to give up the idea — that they had listened to him and he wished us to do the same— that he had promised the Spa> niards to act as he now did,' and that we must proceed no further, or he must stop us by force of arms. My reply] was, " that I had been sent out by our great father to ex. plore the western country, to visit all his red children, | to make peace between them, and turn them from shed- " ding blood ; that he might see how I had caused thel ** Osage and Kans to meet to smoke the pipe of peace! *' together, and take each other by the hands like brol thers ; that as yet my road had been smooth, and a bluel sky over our heads, I had not seen any blood in ouif paths ; but he must know that the young warriors o| his great American father were not women to be tumej « iC (( (( (( (( «h **w "de «wc "bo] " spij *' war tunied 2d Kans t] ping us me, anc my bra time tha ior hors( aMrmed speed, bi with fierc gree of ir that alj th] themselve dieted ! f &c. 3d C\ menced. press. 4ithOL Ae villagel goods frof infor^atioj people, hac general joj vanced nor at the onlu8 eat ob- a place les who g taken le chief, lely en- a person le caught , and had ged ever^' Finally, ^« ed to have I td them to I im and hej ed the Spa- proceed no I My reply I ather to ei- ed cluldren,! I from shedl caused the] pe of peace! idshkebrol .i, and a blue! Ibloodinoutf warriors ol to be turnel TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8ic. U7 *< back by words, that I should therefore proceed, and if ** he thought proper to stop me, he could attempt it ; but ** we were men, well armed, and would sell our lives at a " dear rate to his nationr—that we knew our great father ** would send our young warriors there to gather our ** bones and revenge our deaths on his people— when our <* spirits would rejoice in hearing our exploits sung in the <( war songs of our chiefs." I then left his lodge and re- turned to camp in considerable perturbatio?i of mind. 2d October, Thursday* — We received advice from our Kans that he chief had given publicity to his idea of stop- ping us by force of arms, wl^iich gave serious reflecdons to me, and was productive of many singular expressions from my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to trade for horses but could not succeed. In the night we were alarmed by some savages coming near our camp in full speed, but they retreated equally rapid, on being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. This created some de- gree of indignation in my little band, as we had nodced that all the day had passed without any traders presenting themselves, which appeared as if all in*:ercourse was inter- dicted ! ! Writing to the set^etary at war, the general, &c. 3d October, Friday.-^-The intercourse again com- menced. Traded for some horses. Writing for my ex- press. 4ith October, Saturday. — ^Two French traders arrived at the village in order to procure horses to transport their goods from the Missouri to the village. They gave us information that captains Lewis and Clark, with all their people, had descended the river to St. Louis : this diffused general joy through our party. Our trade for horses ad- vanced none this day. !^ 'i'\'\ I -i >^ i\\mi ^ '' , JOUBNAL 0» A VOYAGE ^ '*• .^., -Buying h'«««-^'P^^ ^ch, and finishing -ny >«te^ express.* P«r. "" eriOrt^r. A^'"«'''^-'^''r^hol the morrow. one, -«>"»«''^=''r^:f^.^,we had m.de every ar- III to stop .s by f'-^^f ;'X'„fa the at.er:.pt -PO- ^g«nent to '^^"^^^.f^, ^ n^rched o. by «ble. The pany ^:'f ^'^[' ^; ^^ ,i,at if attacked .he sa- , road round the 'f^P^ '^^^ ,„ „ „ for cover. 1 ,,,es would not '"«*^/^,a ^thin five or sb. pac«. had giv;^ orf-^ "tiA tte ^yonet and sabre,*h- 1 be- 3„dthento ch^e'^'^t'r'em at least 100 men to have ex. Ueve it woiJd have cost them at ^^^^^ ,j^^ ,^ terminated '.s («Wch *ould toe be ^^ ^., ^^^ Ifge appeared f " ^-^a^b"^. -«Vt« -d - i,age of the chief, ""t"^^ J „J serious attempt to be Jier, but soon ^''^ ^^^^^^en were walking abou ^e, although ""-y 1'°"°f,„d lances. Afnr speaking ^th their bows, arows, g"°?^^^^^^„,,, j told him that ^.he chief with apparent .n*n« ^^^.hatl Calculated on his justice m «« ^^ ^^ ^._^j^^ should leave a man unU^ tg J ^ ^, bring him out. We then ,ome ^^ ^^^ y, '^rfoute: «henlwas once '^'^^^^^^ relieved ,,hich overlooks the v,lhge,UeU y ^^.^ ^ „ ^-" a ''*='^2TStb«^e instrument in the hands p^«;nff^ was that I nugu • Sec Appendix to part II. I TO T of our goi j/ro«^ bam now consis interpreter v/'irricjfs, brand;, dis in. Rant : TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. 149 vo of •cH of ,er lost threat- rery ar* aspos. don by I the sa. over. » ix paces, \\eM 1 be* I have ex. ,■) the vilr up to the and one impt to be ing about r speaking him that I , and that 1 , o'clock to nd pursued of the hill i if relieved wished the in the hands page. 43- of our government, to open their ears and eyes with a strong band, to convince them of our power. Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, 18 soldiers, one terpreter, three Osage men and one woman, making 25 m V nrncrs. We marched out and encamped on a small brand;, ^'stant seven miles, on the same route we came in. RoT; m the night. 8t/j October, Wednesday. — ^I conceived it best to send Baroney back to the village with a present, to be offered forovr h rse, the chief having suggested the propriety of the msasure ; he met his son and the horse with Sparks. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to the place where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they left the Pawnee village. Their encampment was circular, and having only small fires round the circle to cook by. We counted 59 fires ; now if we allowed six men to each fire, they must have been 354 in number We encamped on a large branch of the second fork of the Kans river. Distance 18 miles. 9th October, Thursday. — Marched at eight o'clock, |b*!ing detained until that time by our horses being at a great distance. At eleven o'clock we found the forks of [the Spanish and Pawnee roads, and when we halted at twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the second chief (or (skatappe) and the American chief with one-third of the tillage. They presented us vtith a piece of bear meat. When ^e were about to march, we discovered that the dirk of [he doctor had been stolen from behind his saddle ; after larching the men the doctor and myself, with the inter- )reter, went to the chief and " demanded that he should cause a search to be made ;" it was done, but when the (irk was found, the possessor asserted that he had found on the road ; I told him " that he did not speak the truth," and informed the chief that we never sufFei*ed a ^ f V -t ? 1' 150 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE I j'i w hi thing of ever so little value to be taken without liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his men, who began to encircle us around, and lieutenant Wilkinson with the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indiian demanded a knife before he would give it up ; but as we refused to give any, the chief took one from his belt and gave him, took the dirk and presented it to the doc- tor, who immediately returned it to the chief as a present, and desired Baroney to inform him he now saw it was not the value of the article but the act we despise, and then galloped off. In about ? mile we discovered a herd of elk which we pursued ; they took back in sight of the Paw- nees, who immediately mounted 50 or 60 young men and joined in the pursuit ; then for the first time in my life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages, with their original weapons, bows and arrows ; they buried the arrow up to the plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and pursued our party : we overtook them and encamped within the Grand or Solomon Fork, which we crossed on the 23d September, (lower down) on our route to the Pawnees. This was the Spanish encamping ground. In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, who had not eaten for three days; two of which they had carried] sick companion whom they had left that day ; we gave them supper, some meat and com, and they immediately departed in order to carry their sick companion this sei sonable supply. When they were coming into camp, thj centinel challenged, it being dark ; they immediately (oii| seeing him bring his piece to the charge) supposing he about to lire on them, advanced to give him their handi he, however, not well discerning their motions, was oi the point of firing, but being a cool collected little fellow, called out that there were two Indians advancing on hii and if he should fire ; this brought out the guard, wh halted the Pa who h road, a a large from t west: \ to proc< at eight nothing but they the dists water, i to find th doctor ai found all which wa to our car Spanish tri n-.ent on t twelve o'c saline. I camp until i^istance i 'one Osage *oman oft liberty, en, who rUkinson d. The up*, but nalusbelt the doc- a present, it was not I, and then herd of elk f the Pav. ig men and n my life, 1 3, with theii ed the arrow ,iece of meat id encamped' e crossed on route to thel [ground. ^1 who had not lad carried al ly •, we gavel immcdiatel]! lion this sei'l ito camp, M lediately (oii| jsing he their hands |tions, was oi _ little felH [icing on hit guard, vrh« TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, Sec. 15 1 the poor affrighted savages were brought into camp, very much alarmed, for they had not heard of a white man's being within their country, and thought they were enterr ing one of the camps of their own people. Distance 18 miles. , ^ lOth October, Friday, — ^Marched at seven oV jck and halted at twelve o'clock to dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee chiefs, whose party we left the day before; who informed us the hunting party had taken another road, and that he had come to bid us good by. We left a large ridge on our left, and at sun down crossed it.... From this place we had an extensive view of the south- west: we observed a creek at a distance, for which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself, arrived at eight o'clock at night ; found water and wood, but had nothing to eat. Kindled a Hre in order to guide the party, but they not being able to find the route, and not knowing the distance, encamped on the prairie without wood or water. lltb October, Saturday. — Ordered Baroney to return to find the party and conduct them to our camp. The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and on our return found all our people had arrived, except the rear guard, which was in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came lo our camp and brought some bones of a horse which the Spanish troops had been obliged to eat, at their encamp- ment on this creek j we took up our line of march at twelve o'clock, and at sun-down the party halted on the saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo and did not make the camp until n> ar ten o'clock at night. Killed one buffalo. Distance 12 miles. 12tb October, Sunday, — Here the Belle Oiseau and I one Osage left us, and there remained only one man and woman of that nation — their reason for leaving us was that ffs;! I ^ hi i \ P] JOOBNAU OF A VOY/ -E 1 ill™ M I *■! >tSm *1 . , ,Ad thev desired to be»f „„ course bore too much ""t. and^^^V ^^^ ^^„. lore for the bunting g7"^£^^„^"f »d laid by until i„g sent out to obtam the buftalo me^ , ^^^ ^^. Tier breakfast. P'-f ^f '^^^ p»sed two camp L the river two " *'f"^^;, Here they appeared to, XretheSpanishtroopshadh^U^l. H^^ J^^ ^ ^^ bave remained ^'""^ <^?;;;^uffalo that we lost theme., blended with the traces «'*«;"" ^^^ehad reasonto calculate, that they >«dgood^f^;^» ^^^^^ ^ route for wood »>d «ater. ^^^^^ ,„ ,„fc uon,and before night, «"«' ^uch to our surpr^e, .hei; roads on the loft, ^^^J^^ ^a Touche de la Cot. struck the east fork ot the Kans 3^1,3. Bucanieus. Killed one buffafc^ » ^„y, „e did , 3/A 0<:/<.fer, A^»'^''^r h ' it Ling »n »PP"'^="" no, ..rch until two o'clock, wh^^n u h m^g^^^ P^ ^^^^^ of clearing off. we raised ow camp a ^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ , ed seven ™Yr\tw«VmUes for water. Kiiled| the river we Ht. nau i & ^ onecabrie* it havine drizzled rain all H■. 1S4 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE \i * '■ ' ' we, hcywever, concluded to search for them on the n^or.' row, and if we did not succeed in finding them, to stri' .. the Arkansaw, where we were in hopes to discover some ti^ces, if not cut off by the savages. IStb October, Saturday.^^CommexiQed our route at a good time, and about ten o'clock, discovered two men on horse-back in search of us, (one my waiter ;) they informed us the party was encamped on the Arkansaw, about three miles south of where we then were : this surprised us very much as we had no conception of that river being so near. On our arrival were met by lieutenant Wilkinson, who with all the party was greatly concerned for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the party's arrival, had not water in it six inches deep, and the stream was not more than 20 feet wide, but the rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river, which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank, which are not more than four feet in height, bordered by a few cotton^wood trees on the north side by a low swampy prairie, on the south by a sandy sterile desert at a small distance. In the afternoon the doctor and myself took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw, in order to search for some trees which might answer the purpose to make canoes ; found but one and returned at dusk. It commenced raining at 12 o'clock at night. 19tb October J Sunday.'-^Vmding the river rising n. pidly, I thought it best to secure our passage over, we consequently made it good by ten o'clock, A. M. Rain ' all day. Preparing our tools and arms for labor and the j chase on the morrow. ' 20tb October, Monday.— ^Commenced our labor at I two trees for canoes, but one proved too much doated.... Killed two bufialo and one cabrie. Discharged our guns I Ht a mark, the best shot a pri;ze of one tent and a pair of I 5 fCiOt- : some lite at % men on [^formed >ut three irised us being so rilkinson, I for our , had not not more rs covered ce is 450 5 than four pees on the south by a , afternoon :rossed the rhich migbt )Ut one and o'clock at Ir rising n^ I Tc over, vfe r.M. Rain] Iborandthel jur labor at I Ich doated.-l \ed our gunsi and a pair ot TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, fcc. lii shoes. Our only dog, was standing at tho root of the tree, in the grass, and one of the bails, struck him on the head and killed him. C^^ased raining about 12 o'clock. 21 Jt October, Tuesday,'— Doctor Robinson and my- self mounted our horses, in order to go down the river to the entrance of the three last creeks^ we had crossed on our rout, but meeting with bu£falo, we killed four i also, one cabrie. Returned to camp and sent for the meat. 22d October, Wednesday,— Hdiymg sat up^ery late last evening, expecting the sergeant, and party (who did not arrive) we were very anxious for them, but about 10 o'clock Bradley arrived and informed us, that they could not find the buffalo, which we had killed on the prairie, they all arrived before noon, and in the afternoon we scaf- folded some meat and nearly compleated the frame of a skin Canoe, which we concluded to build ; overhauled my in. struments and made some rectifications preparatory to tak- ing an observation &c. 23d October, Thursday. — ^Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by one man, ascended the river with an inten- tion of searching the Spanish trace ; at the same time, we dispatched Baroney and our two hunters to kill some buf- falo, to obtain the skins for canoes. We ascended the river, about 20 miles to a large branch on the right ; just at dusk gave chase to a buffalo and was obliged to shoot nineteen balls into him, before we killed him. Encamped in the fork. 24 October, FriJay.'^'We assended the right branch about five miles, but could not see any sign of the Spanish trace j this is not surprizing, as the river bears south west, and they no doubt kept more to the west from the head of one branch to another. We returned and on our way, killed some prairie squirrels, or wishtonwislies, ■I -l 'I: 'I: I ; 'li. lii , If |56 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE and nine large rattle snakes, which frequent theur villages.*^ On our am'val, found the hunters had come in a boat, one hour, with two budTalo and one elk skin. * The Wjshtonwish of the Indians, prairie dogs of some travellers'; or squir- rels as I fhoul^ be inclined to denominate them; reside on the prairies of Louisiana in towns or villages, having ao fvident police established in their communities. The sites of their towns are generally on the brow of a hill, near some creek or pond, in order to be convenient to water, and that, the high ground which they inhabit, may not be subject to inundation Their residence, being under ground, is burrowed out, and the earth which answers the double purpose of keeping out the water, and affording an elevated place in wet seasons to repose on, and to give thehi a further and more cistinct view of the country. 'I'heir holes descend in a spiral form, therefore I could never ascertain their depth; but I once had 140 ket- tles of water pored into one of them in order to drive out the occupant, but with- out effect. lu the cii'cuit of the villages, they clear off all the grass, and leave the ^ earth bare of vegetation ; but whether it is from an instinct they possess inducing them to keep the ground thus cleared, or whether they make use of the herbagci as food, I cannot pretend to determine. The latter opinion, I think entitled to a preference, as their teeth designates them to be of the granivorous species, and 1 know of no other substance which i . produced in the vicinity of their positiooi, on which they could subsist ; and they never cxfind their excursions more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark brown color, except their bel lies, which are white. Their tails are not ao long as those of our grey squirrelsi but are shaped precisely like theirs ; their teeth, head, nails, and body, are the perfect squirrel, except that they are getietally fatter than that animal. Their villages sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in whyih there must be uinumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten steps in which there are two or more, and you see new ones partly excavated on all the borders of the towti. We killed great numbers of them with our rifles and fovnd them excellent meat, after they were exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means tlie rankness acquired by their subteranneous dwelling is corrected. As you approach their towns, you are saluted on all sides by the cry of WishtonVvish, from which they derive their name with the Indians, uttered in a shrill and piercing manner You then observe them all retreating to the entrance of their burrows, where they post themselves, and regard every, even the slightest, move- ment that you make. It requires a very nice shot with a rifle to kill them, as thtj must be killed (fead, for as long as life exists, they continue to work into their cells. It is extremely dangerous to pass through their towns, as they abound with rat- tle snakes, both of the yellow and black species ; and strange as it may appear, I have seen the Wishtonwish, the rattle snake, the horn 'rog, of which the prairie abounds, termed by the Spaninrds the cammcllion, from their taking no visible sustenance) and a land tortoise all take refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert, that it was their common place of resort, hut 1 liave witnessed the above facts more than in one instance, ■ ■♦■■.- .- ■ , , ... - i 1 r squir- jtinities> creek or r ground, eptng out id to give jscend in i di4oket- ^ butwith- d leave the, 58 inducing he herbage. ;ntitled to a jecici, audi eir posltionj. ns more than ept their bel ;rc7 squirreUi ,ody, a« the imal. Their there roust be ten steps in ^d on all the fles and fo«nd the frost, bj is corrected. ■Wishtonivish, a shrill and ranee of theit ijlhtest, move- thcm, as they into their cells. ,uml vsith rat- may appear, 1 lich the pra>r'« .ing no visible do not pretend lesscd the above TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 157 25th October, Saturday,^'Took an observation, pass- ed the day in writing, and preparing for the departure of Lt. Wilkinson. 26/i& October y Swwdiry.— Delivered out a ration of com by way of distinction of the Sabbath. Preparing for our ' departure. 21th October, Monday,' -Delivered to lieutenant Wil' kinson, letters for the general and our friends,* with other paper" consisting of his instructions, traverse tables of our voyage and a draught of our route, to that place complete; in order that if we were lost, and he arrived in safety ; we might not have made the tour, without some benefit to our country. He took with him in corn and meat, 21 days provisions and all the necessary tools, to build canoes or cabbins. Launched his canoes. We concluded, we would separate in the morning. He to descend and we to ascend to the mountains. 28th October, Tuesday. — As soon as possible, all was in motion, my party crossing the river to the north side, and lieutenant Wilkinson, launching his canoes of skins and wood. We breakfasted together, and then filed off j but I suffered my party to march, and I remained to sec lieutenant Wilkinson sail, which he did at ten o'clock, having one skin canoe, made of four buffalo skins and two elk skins; this held three men besides himself and one [Osage. In his wooden canoe, were, one soldier, one Osage and their baggage ; one other soldier marched on shore. jWe parted with " God bless you'* from both parties; they ippeared to sail very well. In the pursuit of our party, 'octor Robinson, Baroney, one soldier and myself, killed brelau and a buffalo, of the latter we took only his mar- ow bones and liver. Arrived where our men had eu- imped, about dusk. Distance 14 miles. • See Appendix to part II. [No. i;.] pnjje ^c. A \ V IV 158 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE •I ! ■ '/ J^ ■■ " '■ ' 29tb October^ Wednesday^'^'^Mzrched after breakfest anJ in the first hours march, passed two fires, where twenty one Indians had recently encamped, in which party (by their paintings on the rocks,) there were seven guns. Killed a bufialo, halted, made fire and feasted on the choice pieces of meat. About noon discovered two horses feeding with a herd of buffalo ; we attempted to surround them, but they soon cleared our fleetest coursers. One appeared to be an elegant horse ; these were the first wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours before night, struck the Spanish road ; and, as it was snowing, halted and en- camped the party, at the first woods on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then forded it (the ice run- ning very thick) in order to discover the course the Spa- niards took, but owing to the many buffalo roads, could not ascertain itj but it evidently appeared that they had halted here some time, as the ground was covered witt horse dung, for miles around. Returned to camp. The snow fell about two inches deep and then it cleared up, Distance 12 miles. 30tb October, Thursday. — In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo, to have his marrow bones for breakfast, which was accomplished ; after breakfast the party mard ed upon the north side, and the doctor and myself crossed with considerable difficulty (on account of the ice) to Spanish camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover the Spanish trace and came in at a point of woodsMiacfcj ^jj j south of the river, where we found our party encampedMiack horse We discovered also that the Spanish troops had markoBeed ,• thev the river up, and that a party of savages had been therMhen we ret not more than three days before. Killed two buffalo. Disl Qd No tance 4 miles. ftse of hylnl Slst October, Friday. — Fine day — marched at tiii'elsetcst cour J quarters past nine o'clock, on the Spanish road. EncaiTiped|)rses [f ^ i )V TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 159 sun Jffli hour high, after having made sixteen miles. We ob- served this day a species of chrysdlization on the road (whea the sun was high) in low places where rfiere had beea water settled, on tasting it found it to be salt ; this gave in my mind some authenticity to the report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Discovered the trace of about twenty savages who had followed our road ; and horse* going down the river. Killed one buffalo, one elk, one deer. 1st November, Saturday. — Marched earlv, just after commencing our line, heard a gun on our left ; the doctor, Baroney anc' myself being in advance, and laying on the ground waiting for the party ; a band of Cabrie came up, amongst our horses, to satisfy their curiosity ; we could not resist the temptation of killing two, although we had plenty of meat. At the report of the gun they appeared astonished, and stood still until we hallowed at them to rive them away. Encamped in the evening on an island, pon using my glass to observe the adjacent country, I ibserved on the prairie a herd of horses ; doctor Robin- on and Baroney, accompanied me to go and view them ; hen within a quarter of a mile, they discovered us, and ame immedittely up near us, making the earth tremble der them (this brought to my recollection a charge of avalry). They stopt and gave us an opportunity to view em, among them there were some very beautiful bays, 'nt of woods'Mlacks and greys, and indeed of all colours. We fired at a encainpei«^''ck horse, with an idea of creasing him, but did not suc- ed ; they flourished round and returned again to see us, hen we returned to camp. 2d November, Sunday. — In the morning for the pur- se of trying the experiment, we equipped six of our Ued at tlvreftetcst coursers with riders and ropes, to noose the wild A EncaiTip^V^ses if in our power, to come among the band. They camp cleared up. g sent out to breakfast,' party matcV self crossei ice) to tilt' in order io| ne bad marke Id been thei^ Ibuffalo. :Di^ I6d JOURNAL OF AT'OYAGE % !i Stood until they came within forty yards of them, noighing and whinnowing, when the chase began, which we con- tinued about two miles, without success. Two of our horses ran up with tliem ; we could not take them. Re- turned to camp. I have since laughed at our folly, for talking the wild horses, in that manner, is scarcely ever attempted, even with the fleetest horses, and most expert ropers, (see my account of wild horses, and the manner of taking them in my dissertations on the province of Texas). Marched late. River turned to north by west. Hills rhange to the north side. Distance 13 1-2 nules. Killed one buiFalo. ^ 3d November, Monday. — Marched at ten o'clock passed numerous herds of buffalo, elk, some horses &c. all travelling south. The river bottoms, full of salt ponds; grass similar to our salt meadows. Killed one bufialo. Distance 25 1-2 miles. 4th November, Tuesday. '—This day brought to our recollection, the fate of our countrymen at Recovery; when defeated by the indians, in the year *9i. In the af- ternoon discovered the north side of the river to be cover. ed with animals ; which, when we came to them proved to be buffalo cows and calves. I do not think if an exagge-^ ration to say there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy of ■ o'clock, st remark, that in all the extent of country yet crossed, weBoutf^ide of never saw one cow^ and that now the face of the earth ap-Bed, and on peared to be covered with them. Killed one buffalcP^res, from Distance 24 1-2 miles. Bhar there 5th November, Wednesday. — Marched at our usuaB^eface of i hour ; at the end of two miles, shot a buffalo and twuPwth spring] deer und halted, which detained us so long that we foolisldpwses. Di ly concluded to halt the day and kill son^e cows md ralvesM lOih which lay on the opposite side of the river, i took po#anks of thi on a hill, and sent some horf^emen over, when a scene {om^^od ; th( piace The]] -o /ere one si( impeJJe ded to sated fc 6U detained T/ie cou we feaste attempt t our route covered \ bers exce( • 1th 1 bage bein^ row, in or( ^^0, one ci 8th much jadej «iay, jerked! 9th TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. 161 e con- of our I. «.e. Uy, for ely ever it expert manner ivince of \)y -west. [.2 miles. light to o\h| Recoverfil in the afl to be coveil jmpro'vedtjl r an exagge-l is worthy oil crossed, w«I the earth ap-1 one buffalo] at our usu; uffalo and t\v( hatwefoolisW )wsindcaivei [ tookpo' .uascenetoi place which gave a lively representation of an engagement. The herd of buffalo being divided into separate bands „u ;ered the prairie with dust, and first charged on the one side then to the other, as the pursuit of the horsemen impelled them : the report and smoke from the guns, ad- ded to the pleasure of the scene, which in part compen- sated for our detention. 6th November^ Thursday.— Mdirched early, but was detained two or three hours by the cows, which werMlled. The cow buffalo, was equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route ; suffice it to say, that the face of the prairie was covered with them, on each side of the river; their num- bers exceeded imagination. Distance 16 miles. • 7th November y Friday. — Marched early. The her- bage being very poor, concluded to lay by on the mor- row, in order to recruit our horses, killed three cow buf- falo, one calf, two wolves, one brelaw. Distance 1 8 miles. 8th November, Saturday* — Our horses being very much jaded and our situation very eligible, we halted all day, jerked meat, mended mockinsons &c. 9th November, Sunday. — Marched early. At twelve o'clock, struck the Spanish load, (which had been on the outpide of us) which appeared to be considerably augment- |edj and on our arrival, at the camp, found it to consist of 96 .fires, from which a rearonable conclusion might be drawn, that there were from 6 to 700 men. We this day found he face of the country considerably changed ; being hilly, ith springs: passed numerous herds of buffalo and some orses. Distance 27 miles. lOih November^ Monday. — The hills increased, the anks of the river, covered with grc .es of young cottDii iwd J the river itself much nur rower and crooked. Otir X" '!" :-f P- % l I'' 1 m JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE •:f ': . 1; m horses growing weak, two gave out, being then along empty, cut down trees at night, for them to browze on, KHied one buffalo. Distance 20 miles. 1 \th November, Tuesday. — Marched at the u^ualhour. Passed two old, and one last summer, canips which had belonged to the savages, and we suppose Tetaus. Passed a Spanish camp where it appeared they remained some days as we conjectured to lay up meat, previously to entering the Tetau country, <^ the buffalo evidently began to grow much less numerous. Finding the impossibility of performing the voyage in the time proposed, I determined to spare no pains to accomplish every object even should it oblige me to spend another winter, in the desert. Killed one buffalo, one brelaw. Distance 24 irales. I2tb November, Wednesday. — ^Was obliged to hi\^^ two horses, which entirely gave out. Missed the Spa- nish road. Killed one buffalo. Distance 20 miles. \ \3th November, Thursday. — ^We marched at the I usual hour. The river banks begin to be entirely covered I with woods on both sides, but no other specie than cotton f wood. Discovered very fresh signs of indians, and one! of our hunters informed me, he saw a man on horsebadj ascending a ravine on our left. Discovered signs of waij parties ascending the river. Wounded several buffalo.! ^Killed one turkey, the first we have seen since w« left thefc/^^ j^^- Pawnees. \Mh November, Friday, — In the morning, doctcrj Robinson, one man and myself, went up the ra^ine, on which the man vas supposed to have been seen, but coiil(| make no important discovery. Marched at two o'clockj passed a point of red rocks and one large creek. Dis^am 10 miles. I5th November, Saturday. — Marched early. Passf two deep creeks and nianv high points of the rocks ; ali I6t/j 'panish t. ver; ^ve ippeared a ovv, where la.e yet di: 'mbark in '^ mount,: ince II I, g then aloog browze on, he u^ual hour, ps which had :aus. Passed a led some days y to entering Ltly began to npossj-bility of , I determined :t even should lesert. Killed iS. liged to lea\je ssed the Spa- 20 miles. \ arched at the itirely covered cie than cotton dians, and one on horseback, i signs of wai .^veral buffalo. nee we left the )rning, doctcr| the ra.ine, oi seen, but could It two o'clock I :ek. Dis^ancl TO THE SOURCES Qp ^HP ^n. ^^ IHE ARK ANSA w c l«rsehe«is of buffalo. At tw ., '^''"- '" ^b appeared like a ,„^, Mue'bud :"™' '° °" "«*'• Wslass. and was ^rill more Z^^J ,'"^''«'" with the '™« me, but in half an W ^ *""' '^'^ *=>» « "^w before us. When ou. ,m!» * '''^ "Pf^^d in fuU '% with one accord 1°" t'^ 1"^ "^'^^^ ^ "« Wll -erewhlteras if coverilth "t"^' ''« '"^ -Z ^s. which divide the ZtTiT':"" ^''»'» °f mount' •"e Atlantic oceans. andTS*: ^''"«'= '™™ '^o- ^ tymto the bay of the HoiySf f "f^ ^'''<^'' -np- f-Pp. ; as the Alleghany doe" ' f^ *^^ °'- ">« Mi' rf-emselves into the latter riv'^T '''"■'='' *»'^''arge »PP»r to present a natural ouX^ h ' ^"'""^'•■- '^''^y ,»fI-ous«naand N.w Mexico In *'™ *''" P^^ince '»«ural boundary, fiefo^ ° '' *'"'"' ^' » *fined and ,;" *e -uth sid'e beff^n^-e d.-scovered a f! fe Kops, appeared to havelrne ' f ""' "^ '^^ Sp'-^b ^■«. a. .ut one mile from Z Ifl' ' ""^^P^'^ "" ■'» He further discoveries o,.th' """"«'»' ■'»' we might io//^ November ^ 7 ;P^™^h troops bad'asc'S;-if7/r''"^ '"« *« ;'-; ^^'^''rchedattwoo'clkpf^' '■'"''' °'- ">-^« PPeared a, this pface to be mnebi' ' ''''^'^ ^^^'^^'^aw w, where we first struck" Id 7 '""«*^"' "-">- '^•'•' yet discovered in ,ho river f 'u^ '"■P^*n>»t I mbark i„ February at i,s ,21' "''^ ""' <"•='■'»'• to '» "'oumains. with cr f, ! t '?" ''""'■'' '° "'^' Mexi! '"'^- » 1-2 milss. ' P™P^'-'>- '^"n^nicted. Jxi "«i'^V^?-?^Ui{;,l| v'?^: 164 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 4 .';, i\ 17/A November J M^n^.-^Marched at our usual hour, pushed with anidfea of arriving at the mountains, but found at night, no visible difference in their appearance, from what we did yesterday: one of our horses gave out and was left in a ravine, not being able to ascend the hill : but I sent back for him and had him brought to the camp. Distance 23 1-2 miles. 18th November, Tuesday.^^As we discovered fresh signs of the savages, we concluded it best to stop and kill some meat, for fear we should get into a country where we could not kill game. Sent out the hunters ; I walked my. «elf, to an eminence from whence I took the courses to the different mountains, and a small sketch of their appearance. In the evening, found the hunters had killed without mer. cy, having slain 17 buffalo and wounded at least 20 more. 19th November, Wednesday, — Having several buffalo brought in, gave out sufficient to last this month ; I found it expedient to remain and dry the meat, as our horses were getting very weak, and the one died which was brought up on the 1 8th. Had a general feast of marrow bones ; 136 of them, furnishing the repast. 20tb November, Thursday. — Marched at our usual hour ; but as our horscs's loads were considerably aug- mented by the death of one horse and the addition of 900 lbs. of meat, we moved slowly, and made only 18 miles. Killed two buffalo and took some choice pieces. Bdisappointe 21st November, Friday. — Marched at our usual hour, Bnieet. JV|a passed two Spanish camps, within three miles of each other, mwhen. the t We again discovered the tracks of two men, who had as- lit was with cended the river yesterday. This caused us to move withinot until th caution ; but at the same time, increased our anxiety tolsjon. \^]j discov/er them. The river was certainly as navigable herelparriors h (and 1 think much more so,) than some hundred milesftnd iances. below, which I suppose arises from its flowing through jl'me they w long wate mow hour, having scende cried ningfri on turn on the I colors, ^hose in we again round, tc that I dis had moui tor and B f^ans wer quih'ty wa ses aJ] safe ty, from Tetaus ; An unsucc ^ays read) f TO THE SOURCES OF '^HE ARKANSAW, fee. 165 long course of sandy soil, which must saibsorb much of t!ie water, and render it shoaler below than above, near the mountains. Distance 21 miles. Q2d November, Saturday. — ^Marched at our usual hour, and with rather more caution than i/ mortified, that the smallness of my number obliged me thus to submit to the insults of a lawless bandit ii, it being the first time ever a savage took any thing from mc, with the least appearance of force. After encamping at night the doctor and myself went about one mile back, and way laid the road, determined in case we discovered any of the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at least; but after waiting behind some logs un^* me tinie in the night, and discovering no person, W( to camp. Distance 17 miles, killed two bu. one deer. 23d November, Sunday. — Marched at ten o*clock ; at one o'clock came to the third fork on the south side and encamped at night in the point of the grand forks. As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many small bran- ches and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the party in a defensible situatioi\^ and ascend the north fork, to the h-gh point of the blue mountain, which we conceived would be one days march, in order to be enabled from its pinical, to lay down the various branches and positions of the country. Distance 19 miles. Killed five buffalo. 24;th Novcfuber, Monday. ^-^dxXy in the morning cut down 14 logs, and put up a breast work, five feet high on three sides and the other was thrown on the river. After asfarasvfas • c aspect* fc^""g ^hi^^scessary orders for their government, during rate theflv-Mmy absence, in. case of our not returning. We marched A daring ^"^t ^'^^ o'clock with an idea of arriving at the foot of the bai^gage-t^^ntain ; but found ourselves obliged to take up our r ,. i'. v/efcghts lodging under y. single cedar, which we found in had midihe prairie, without water and extremely cokt. Our party five canfesides myself consisted of doctor Robinson, privates Mil- ir our leaving fr and Brown. Distance l'.iini!eb. .;•„,„ »■> 't^'v^,- i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A 1.0 1.1 i4£ 12.0 Ui ^ IH^ 1^ IL25 IIIU ^ ^^ ^V-^ Photographic Sciences Corporation •^ iV ,v <^ O^ 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSEO (716) •72-4503 '^ 168 JOURNAL OP A V(>t'A(Sfi ezpecttfidii f^ ascoiding di^ mdittilBilifbutAN^ dttly^^ to encampat its base, after passiflg^VerinsiAy sinatl }iilli> covered with cedars and pitcb piiles; Oiir eiicampmoit inA on a creek where we found no Wiiter for sevieral ni3e6 from the mountain, but near its base, found springs suf- ficient. Took a meridional observadcm, and' Ibe alth tiide of the mountain. KiUed two buffalo. Distance 8S niiles. 26/i& Noffembery Wednesday^^^xpec^g to return fo our camp that evenings we left all our l^lankets and pn). visions, at the foot of the mountain. Killed a de^r (di new ^edes, and hung his dun on a tree with some meat We commenced ascending, found it very difficult, beteg obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes altnost perpjendieu^ kr ; and after marching all day^ we encamped in a cave^ without blankets, victuals or water. W^ had a fine clear irhilst it was snowing at the bottom. On the side d >untain, we found only yellow and pitch pinej Some distance up we found bufl^o, higher still the new sp*^ 6f deer and pheasants. * 27tb November, Tbunday.'^Arose hungry, dry, and extremely sore, from the inequality of the rocks, oa which we had lain all night, but were amply comf^ensated for toil by the sublimity of the prospects below. The ufr bounded prairie was overhung with clouds^.which appear* sd like the ocean in a storm ; wave piled on wave and £bammg, whilst the sky u'as perfectly dear where we, were. Commenced our march up the mountaio, and in about one hour arrived at the summit of this chain^: hm\ we found the snow middle deep ; no sign of beast or Inhabiting this region. The thermometer which stood 9® above O at the foot of the mountain, here fell to 4°beJ low 0. The summit of the Grand Peak, which was en to wh pin onlj iilf bad fyrd the 91 8|QnS2 belter nbsjth that 48 28 Kept sc past one first full a vaiJey and cove 29/. 'epast, ai well. 30A o'clock, i loving w doctor, B eampinent riiigssitf- ts twid pro- some meat kuU, beiag perpjBH^ett^ ed inacave, to the aide °f! hpitieiSoBK TO tH£ SOURCES OF THE ARI^ANSAW, fce. <«0 tirely l>are(^ y^gietsution and ^oyeredivith a|ow» now a|^ peai^ at t^ dj^^u)iqe,olf 1^ Qi; 16 loiijtes fromp, and as JhJigii^gainjA^l^t we |ad J^scetidedy and would h^^ talien 9k iH^qle day's nprdi j^ h^ve i^y^Kl ^t its boap^ whenl beli^sre nq, hujO^an being CQi|ld jbave j^j^si^i^io j^ {Hnical. . This with diecondidon of my soldiers Vhoh^ only Ught , oyeralls >on, sii^d np stoclpngs, and^ every way ill provided to endure t|ie|nflemen<^ |c^iher^Q^ bad prospect of killing any thing. to svbs^ on, with J^je j^uther detepdon pf^o Qr%ee day||4^^))ic|i*it mustoq- casii]i^,dete|npai^^ llie <^oii^^^ belo^tf had niow ascend^ .die mountain an^ entirely eny^oped the 9uipnit,pn whicfi res^ ^^imial snows. We descended by ajp^ ^^p ravine with miich 1^^ ili^culy dian cc^ lemplated. Found all our bag|^^ ^e, bi^t jbue^priQip* sions :41 destroyed. It begaa to snqw^ and. we, sougnt ^elter under ^e side of a projecting rpck^^i^^ foul', made a meal on one partridge, and a, jn^fc^ deer's rp>s, tl|^ ravens had left us, being the first we jtiad c^^^^i^^ that 4a hours/ |. 2Btb November^ B-;<%.-»Mard^ . at pile o'cjod;. Kept straight down the creek to avoid the hiUs. ^^t Ivdf past one o'clock shot two bu^alo, when we made, the first full meal we had made in three d^ys. %)^^^ ^in » valley under a shelving rock. The land h^e very rid^ and covered with old Tetau camps, ,; 29tb November, Saturday, — Marched after a short repast, and, arrived at our camp before night y found aU well. 30tb November, Sunday. — ^Marched at eleven I o'clock, it snowing very fast, but my impatience to be moving woidd not pi^mit my lying still at that camp. The doctor, Baroney and myself, went to view a Tetau en- camp orient, which appeared to be about t\vo years old; r :Nlff ''''iJ^' iro JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ' Kid 'from thdr having cut do\m so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, conclude there must have been at \eak one thousand souls : passed several more in the course of the day $ also one Spanish camp. Distanc^l5 miles; Silled two deer. Thi' day came to die first cedar and jdne. 1st December, Monday.^^The storm still continuing tpith violence, we remained encamped ; the snow by n%ht one foot deep ; our horses bemg obliged to scrape it away, to obtain their miserable pittance, and to increase their misfortunes, the poor animals were attacked by the mag. pies, who attracted by the scent of their sore backs, alight- ed on them, and in defiance of their wi|icing and kicking, picked many places quite raw ; the difficulty of procuring food rendered those birds so bold as to light en our mens arois and . u 'r meat out of their^ hands. One of our hunter's dUt but killed nothing. ^ 2d December, Tuesday. — ^It cleared off in the night, and in the morning the thermometer stood at IT below 0, (Reaumef) being three times as cold as an/ morning we hath December, Ti6f/ri tain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 or 6G feet. Killed two bufialo, two deer, one turkey. *7tb December, Sttnday,—^VIe again dispatched parties In search of the tracer one party discovered it on the other side bf the riVer, and*lbUowtd it mto the valley of the river at the entrance ^jf^lhe mounciiit. Inhere they nilet two parties wliAr were returning from fexpliTing the t^ branches of the river, in the mountams : of which they re* pdrted, to have' ascended until the river was hierelya brook, bounded on both sides with perpendjpilfer rocks! impracticablie for horses ever to pass them ; they then re* crossed the river to the north side, and discovered (as they supposed) that the Spanish troops had ascended a dry> valley to the right — on their return they found some rock salt, samples of which were brought me. We determined to march the morrow to the entrance of the valley ; there to examine the salt, and the road. Killed one wild cat. 8/A December, Monday, — On examining the trace found yesterday, conceived it to have been only a recbn- noitering party, dispatched from the main body, and on analysing the rock salt, found it to be strongly impreg* nated with sulphur. There were some very Strong sulphu- rated springs at its fdot. Returned to camp ; took with me Dr. Robinson and Miller, andfdescended the riveiif*^ in or- der to discover certainly, if the whole party had came by this route. Descended about seven miles on the south side. Saw great quantities of turkies and deer. Killed one deer. and in which i was hot frequeni P.M. hi outtose |fance is 12// ■ontinuei w our ri| appe snow »^y 12 m 1 3th Nrand j camp J "mediately pere bein^ ^"nisb Troi obufialoaad different par- iiccess. Thfi le mountsun, of the moun< of 50 or 6© ;ey. Itched parties ed it on the the valley of lere they ttimt iring the t^o rhich they te. eras hieretya tipilar rocksl they then re. rered (as they ;ended a dl^ id some rock '"e determined tralley ; there ne vrild cat. ig the trace only a recon- body, and on ngly impreg. trong sulphu- took with me 2 rivefi^^ in or. had came by 3n the south ieer. Killed TO THE SOURCES OP THE AD... Span»fc camp about four mfleTJ^'^^- found Ae *enver. Returned to\Z .*''**'»'' XKMded •-o'clock. Fou.^ ^ :^ ''''«;« we .„^2S; medately, but four njj^lj'^'^ ^^ «oved^' ^^l> December. TF,J.. J . •^ over the mountl t^-^-»^d»d "^ found the " H t^th water and LTjr^ *°'?»P«». where th,^ h^ "ght and left, apZj to ''"'''^- ^« ^dg^ h appeared on our flS^;°fr ^-, but „oS! mil snow. Owing to the i. T^ ** """vaJs covered K^i8 miles. ^ '"^ '^'^■e* of our ho«es. S H^^l^Swe^^t'-^'^''"' « *e usual h «n,p i and at IZ^TLT^ *«= (supposed) S« ' Jiaiedutelv fell „„ "ock. a dividing riA ^ i «y teU on a small branch „."•*, "''«*' ""1 Itee bemg no appearance of „ . ^°^S ^- ^° W H ^~« to o^^ Sr»d r1' r '^'^ '■'' '"'d the \^- ^er the halt fi my ^f Jf "^ "'"' *" - y gun and went out to see 174 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE liijiSf. ■'■ :'. i:r R-ir^' J!''i what ditcajfery I could make, and after marching about two mUes north, ^U on a river 40 yards wide, froaen ofer^ whkh after some investigation, I fou^ nm nordi east, this was ^e occasion of much surprise, as we were tau|^ to expect to have met with die branches of the Red liver, which should run south east Quere. Must it not be the l^ead waters of the river Platte ? If so the Missouri must run much more west, than is generally represented; for die Platte is a snudl river by no means presenting an expectation of so extensive a course. Distance 18 miiei. One horse gave out ahd was left, 14tb December, S«im%.— Marched. Struck tiu river, ascended it four miles, and encamped on the north side. The prairie being about two miles wide, was cover* fd at least six miles (on the banks of the river} with hoiy i dung and the marks of Indian camps, which had bea] since the cold weather, as was evident by the fires whicb were in the centre of the lodges ; the sign made by thdrl horses was astonishing, and would have taken a thousantHlodians, ^ horses some months. As it was impossible to say whicii| course the Spaniards pursued, amongst this multiplicity d\ signs, we halted early, and discovered that they or savages had ascended the river. We determined to p^'j sue them, as to the geography of the country, had tut out to be so different from our expectation; we somewhat at a loss which course to pursue, unless we tempted to cross the snow cap'd mountains, to the scud east of us which was almost impossible. Bursted onei our rifles, which was a great loss, as it made three which had bursted, and the five which had been broken ( the march, and one of my men was now armed with sword and pistols. Killed two buffalo. 15t/j December, Monday.-^'Aher repairing our guaja fine creJ we marched, but were obliged to leave another hory mountain] TO THE SOURCES OP THE A»r.. A«end«IU,.ri,er both ./"^ ^"*^'"'^^. •- >r, »«« have been e«n^ely^^ ' '^ «** »«p. ttey «umbe» of horse,. My L^^""' '"''»»*»«» vw >-* cold, being ^^^ ^^ »»*«d ewremdy ""d-P the stream, ^^r?*^"*!"- When finding „o ,»ough to enaWe me to hfdo"! S^ ''^■■« "s'' ** amh |ata8e,camp» which had C'o«^„-5r P«y found r^' «-* » Ja^e crossTtKdl. ^ *!'«« ««> |*<«e I«ople catholics ? ""'''"«• Qnew. Are ' *e main b«„ch ; .^r^^kZ^V^ '°^' ^ '" 8 « 'o bear too much to Arn^„T^ '^*^' >»>» fotf- ° S»ve ve^r little cr^ie. ol enL^"'' '° ''^'^ ^ » mountain, camepast an exr.M ? "^ ' ^ap in the " fine creek, which we foS" ^P'^S -W^h form- . -mountains forabout six mt fours'- "'«^*» ■» ' ''"""' many evacuated I, JOURNAI- OF A VOYAGE •'• - .ftMBoinringouttbe eource. W««°^« t^, lurched «Jo«n «h«« °«k . i9«A -D^'"»*f ' '^^e Id encamped, sent o« ne.rAeopeping.rf ^ P'^'';,"^,,^ SriU »ov*, jarrie. hunting,;^*". '>""^ ^ke an otoeivanoo. aai B««».i*r, S-'-'-'^J'---™ down to U ^. for pasture on the river sent ourhor^s ^ ^^ I ^.aUo three paruesou^hrnxu^^^^^ ^ ^noptoepectofblUng'»y8 ,herefore determinJ U» part, d»uld ^^'^"Zm descend the river J ^ .he doctor »d^"Sd two „^ „„„ia ascendd Ae rest of the party « j^ .bained provision and cojddw^tB^ 21„ 0««»to-. ^""^Vfor me to take a meridio. ,^ed •. the party ^TT^^ZXl Myself and i observation, after ">"* 'rTCSoy a"* ^Ul'')' t-omenwhoaccon,pan.a^^*^»^^/„^,,, aide., bordered by yellow V^-^^^^U »P thirteen rfj ivir. TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. ITT view 9t Icamt 95 miles, tq where the river ente^ thf mountains, it beii^ »t that pUce not more than ten or fif- teen ieet wi4«» md properly speaking, only a brttk i from this pl»c« ^er takin|[ the course, and estimating the dis- tance we relumed to our camp of last evening. Killed one turkey i^nd a hare. U3d[ Picemberf Ti(£'xJay*«^Marched early, and at two o'clock, P. M. discovered the trace of the party on the op- posite side of the river ; forded it, although extrem^y cold and ntarched until some time in the night,- when we arrived at the second nights encampment of the party. Qur doathing was frozen stiff, and We ourselves were^con; sidera^ly benumjbied* ''^n ' 94f^k December^ Wednesday^^-Ths party's provision ^extending only to the 23d, and their orders being npt tP It until they killed some game, and then wait, for us : oosequeutly they might have been considerably advanced, ut 11 o'clock, met doctpr Robinson on a prairie, who formed me that he and 9aroney had been absent ^ons party two days without killing any thing, (al^P vrithov^ ing,) but that over night, they had killed four bufialo^ that he was in search of the men ; and suffered the lads with me to go to the camp where the meat was^- we had also been nearly two days without eating, '^le ir and myself pursued the trace and found them iped on the river bottom. Sent out horses for th^ ;, shortly after Sparks arrived and informed us he had fou^ cows. Thus from being in a starving condiuon had 8 beeves in our camp. We now again found our.< es all assembled together on Christmas £ve, and ap. generally to be content, although all the refresh- we had to celebrate that day with, was bufialo meat, y^ggntnilitout salt, or any other thing whatever. My little ejf^ ewebaolsion up the river was in order to establish the at the ; wtnt and in !dto> gjiwith id to the e. De- nine the he cr«A sent out { gnowins jervauon. afineplac» toUvrithi vrhom » j^s thm ecessarytktl dete the rivet d ascend •r ^xdx\ tyself an^ d Miller) ,rth M^e* and r ome pls«^^ leep. ^t* J Ul'i^'' nver was m z t ■:. ITS JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE geogiii]>hy of the sources of the (supposed) Red River, is I well knew the indefatigable researches of doc- tor Hunter; Dunbar and Freeman, had left nothing unao- ticed in th^ extent of their voyage up said river, I deter- mined thiit its upper branches should be equally well ex. plored J as in this voyage I had already ascertained the sources of the Osage, and White Rivers, (been round the head of the Kans River) and on the head waters of tbe Platte. '' ^ ^Stk December i Ti&ttr/^j;f.—It being stormy weather aA^H liaviiig meat to dry ; I concluded to lie by this day. ^ere I must take the liberty of observing that in this ska. ation, the hardships and privations we underwent, were on this day brought more ftilly to our mind. Having been acciistomed to some degree of relaxation, aiid'extra enjoj' m^nts; but here 800 miles from the frontiers of our counOf,j M the most inclement season of the year; not one clothed for the winfer, mkny vrithout blankets, (hi \ken obliged to cut them up for socks, &c.) and nOwb] l^g down at night on the snow or wet ground ; one a bntbing -Whilst the other was pierced with the cold wU; this ' Was m part the situation of the party vi\ sbme Ve^e endeavoring to make a miserable substitute raw; buffalo hide for shoes &c. I will not speak of as { conceive that to be beneath the serious considei of a man on' a voyage of such nattire. We spent the fls agk^eeably as could be expected from men in our sii £bn. Caught a bird of a new species, having nude trtp for him.* ' *Tbis bird was cf a green color, almott the dse of a qoall, and had a Mft on it* head like a pheasant, and was ,of the cainhrorous species ; it d ftota any bird we ever saw in the United Sutes. We kept him with ui small wicker cage, feeding him on meal, until I left the interpreter on the s«w, with whom I left it. We at one time, took a companion of the same iiei, and pat them in the same cage, when tbe first restdent never ceased ing the stranger notil he killed him. m thi ed sou pitci sequ on tt trenie cueth 30/Jl, one o'cil 'esledioads TO THE SOURCE, OP THE ABrAvc «» •eve"! »«UI wJr.'K.'r'*^^'"- W f"*. il« my boy ,«| ^3 ""*»» "'•" from the •eque-cof which we w^tm„LT«'" "^^^ ''" »'»- <» "op. «» weU u d„, ^ ^-^'ff 'y cove«d with ««,» »«4em«ive. coUe-Z^T l''^"«« «* »d *«« no road, of buiftlo. or Z!^f l.^** *''°™ '^o - «« 4a' neither tho« aS,^,T "^J""*. 1 «- convin*. «h» cliama to theright or C an?. 7 "»« c«^ oneof 'fc'lowercount.y. Vas obSXl*i'r°°*"'»« ^ ."ly 4e bagg^eat^vet^Xef ^ ourho«^ a^ 1«e»dfa.mtheipe^'r;*J''''=^ over an open t'^<'''«ofthe'nr«Lt7«"\'°^»^«'^ *e«««ice of the most pe™^£ "* "'«':' ^^-flPed at . K *«.»gh which Ae'^ri.t^r*^^ °" •»"■ P^nce 16 mUe«. '^° »^ "w courae lay. -r.rfanewspedes^fSaK*' '^' •^«- «»»«. carries their «oro.c?^t«a;rf-''ed: but at iaif h'"''^^-''"^^''-'^ote:ifi-r„rpts 190 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE m m wm I: on pn wit thin iron tobt ,dwing to the Waters mrniing over the ke* Distances miles. Crossed our horses twice on the ictt* 3l3t December , f^ '^ ™n«d to continue doCrtetw" I '^«'- ' d««- >ome«,s,enance. and find LZ m ' T"' ' «*"" «« *• "«• or the doctor and iTer" ^^ '«* <» onthe «. P«>"»»n. and every^t;""P™'». ^'''^ M •«n exertion for safetv „H „7^ *" *" ^^P^ on his ^"'^o eight S»Tl^r" T""'-- « «"i ha companion i smtT?^* ^- '«'• The doctor ^ The inte^ret^^di ::'"'*"****«»«^e? **; Myself; stk. 6th. VtlTaJd 8*"?*"'" **''°"" fW» at diflerent distancT- ^T\ " "^ *'«'> ^th ^ or^ if they killeTa.;.'^^':''"'" '""""^ *« '»•» » a conspicuous place for tflif ' '^'^ some parj ■»f ed on abou' fi"' i'7„ ^"P---'-^ i« the ^^ .•Wnued fell throuirhTr ""•"■' *'^<* was one * on both sides 1: ^^ T ^"»*' -" ■•■»"»" K ~cfcs were perpendf^ ™«^! ' T .'° " "'^^ ^het^ (fcept. narrow bTrderjonthr * "''^' =«<'"°ice K » order to disccilS':'^'-- ' "^^^ "> '""t /$• r . jOURNAt OF A VOYAGE ' • -immediately imned me) 4ey ^ ther '»^°°'^f^,I STfor &e last two dxfs, ^5 that *ey l»d»'»;^3^^toyeboikdadeer ^ that this night *^ >J "^Xovered a narrow .a. ddntosobaston. ^* *' f^ "doctor and Ws compa. re.^herewasthe t»ce of Ae^doc»>^^^^j^, rion . as the wat« had m down ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ one continued *eet ^ '^ ^, baggage- Oa utmost difficulty and '»a»gf' »^~^ ,„ encampment rf Ae summit of Aefi«^nd^-f°-^^ ^^^^ ^utthe, U.e doctor, and wh^ *^ .^^^^ ^ that the, had now no meat. H^JTrT nring on a tree, but sup- had left the greatest part of * "angmg ^^ ^^^ Led the birds had lestj^yed^ j]^ *„„/;„ order » % the remainder of the bagg^, an^^ ^^ ^^es. Ju some subsistence^o™.^ a dee^;^ ^ ^^en I r. of the night approachmg. could ^^^ ^^ ^^ .„„ed hungry, weary «.d^^»1h J ply the calls of nature. ^"^^ ,,„, ;„ d,e morning « •^ 5« ""^ ^''^f^' part of my parq • it, as my gr»dest resource f«JJ^ ^ ^ and hungry ,;tumedto 7trSed1^JSSTeftthem,wia.J I then took a double l>«?'7 ^ j ^ould return W ,„^cesthatthefirst«u^ k.;^;^^^ ^^ y,he part for their reUef. Abo^ t«> „„bounded space '-•^^°'*r'SS;.e?*eivesto my view,, the praines again presemeu i 'i ii, TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8tc. 18$ in the • daysi t a deer rowia* cotnpa* hard, it with the age. Ott ptnent oi but they that thq ., but sup- s to bring in order to ^e darkness when I w- now to sup. I morning to )meof thw founded 8^ none, and 01 ing as I sup-l krtlyaft^"*' [kfi ber off bll jcalculatedoa ,f my pa^n and hungry, them, with as^ [id return vit se the highe mded space my view, * from some distant peaks, I immedi-'tely recogmzed it to be the outlet of the i^kansaw, v! i we had lef: nearly one month since I This was a grc^ mortification, but at the same time I consoled myself with the knowledge I had acquired of the soutce of the La Platte and Arkansaw rivers, with the river to the north west, supppsed to be the Pierre Jaun, which scarcely, any person but a madman would ever purposely attempt to trace. any further than the entrance of those mountains, which had hitherto se- cured their sources from the scrutinizing eye of civilized man. I arrived at the foot of the mountain, and bank of the river, in the afternoon, and at the same time discovered on the other shore, Baroney with the horses; they had found quite an eligible pass, and had killed one bufr falo and some deer. We proceeded to our old camp, which we had left the 10th of December, and re-occupied it. Saw the traces of the doctor and his companion, but could not discover their retreat. . This was ray hittb-day, and most fervently did I hop^ never to pass another so miserably. Distance 7 miles. Fired a gun off as a signal for the doctor. 6th January, Tuesday, — ^Dispatched the two soldiers back with some provision to meet the first lads, and assist them on, and the interpreter a hunting. About eight o'clock the doctor came in, having seen some of the men. He had been confined to the camp for one or two days, by a vertigo which proceeded from some berries he had eaten Ion the mountains. His companion brought down six deer, which they had at their camp ; thus we again began to be out of danger of starving. In the afternoon, some of the men arrived, and part were immediately returned Iwith provisions, &c. Killed three deer. Vh January, Wedmsday*-^ent more men l?ack to L'^ 5 ^• "'WX'] w^ 'SIP^ 'I ^ llill 184 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE Tf 18* at the same time kept Baroney »na <»» , _^ ^^,^^ KUled Aree deer. _ _ __ ^ ^ ^^ difforent pair. «i Jaman, ^^''^''^''^y^ my rifle } oAm tiesamved. P"' °»« "^I ^St«o deer, gent back to .»bt ^'^'^^ ^de party «as o«. 9/* J'"»'"7'J'ZL we felt comparativeVy happy. morejobKid «»g«*~' "''f'V^litotio Jl experienced a notwiteanding the ff^ "^^""^ to th^ Red rive, having been so eg^P'T^ ° ^^^ to. proceed, as any I now felt at considerab k loss how V ^^^ ^_^^^,^ Ide, of services at ^« ^^^^ ^^ fo^ed and r^ecU preposterous; «•>"» ^'^^ "^"KuLdon, Ideter,pined to L.and the most ~JfS»i«. -^ »-- "T build a s«aU Pl-f^^^^'^'^tterpretlr and one man, ^ "^' Zn^^^ of two stars, &c. b«t|„,h, and T^^^::l^^l Killed three, deer._^^ .gh. Red u amarcl] IS pack. ' mooii) V ofasceiti of Jupite four deer I4t/. consKtuic uscarryii proper, w leaving Bj We< of the riv« fork, on -vt Itheinounti Thed I5th, land passec fountains, 'unter, we wrought the i6i/fj iy« Encai |unt, but ki lessenii l7tbJa lenthe equal altitudes -, f 8"'" .T S^led three deer, do not now recollect «^^_£^f Jf^ the ladtude aaJ nth Jonu^ry^Suxda,.-^^ Kilkdfourdeet ao nuL "-" -- , AscertaineQ me wwi.— — «uu core a took^e'tnS'^SS"^'-"^'^^'""'"^' "•^"' "ghtRedr *nd bore a TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, &c. tU tpar- 0ihers 19th January, Mon^/tf^.-^Preparing the baggage for a march by separating it, &c. Observations continued. 13th January, Tuesday.^^W&ghed out each inan's pack. This day I obtained the angle between sun and moon, which I conceived the most correct way I possessed of ascertaining the longitude, as animmersion^and emersion of Jupiter's satellites could not now be obtained. Killed four deer. I4th January, Wednesday. — ^We marched our party^ consisting of 18 soldiers, the doctor and myself, each of us canying 45lb. and as much provision as he thought proper, which, with arms, &c. made on an average, 70lbs< leaving Baroney and onemaui, Patrick Smith. We crossed the first ridge (leaving the main branch of the river to the north of us,) and struck on the south fork, on which we encamped, intending to pursue it thro' the mountains, as its course was more southerly. The doctor killed one deer. Distance 1 3 miles. 15th January, TAwr jdlflty.— Followed up this branch land passed the main ridge, of what I term the Blue buntains. Halted early. The doctor, myself, and one iunter, went out with our guns, each killed a deer, and rought them into camp. Distance 19 miles. 16/A January, Friday. — ^Marched up the creek all ly. Encamped early as it was snowing. I went out to It, but killed nothing. Deer on the hill ; the moun- lessemng. Distance 18 miles. IVh January, Saturday.'^Mvocched about four miles, en the great White Mountain presented itself before ^^gg]> ^ tool^M, in sight of which we had been for mpre than one Btiirs, &c leer. »e latitude bull nth, and through which we supposed lay the long ight Red river. We now left the creek on the north of and bore away more east, to a low place in the moun- led four deerlis. About sun-set we came to the edge of a prairie, A a ',\hf,- jOVKNAL OF A VOYAtfE K\\Tdi said ptairie, crossed the a^ ^^^ ,^ "^ H.^we all got our ^««V^^* , ^^ tbe^oods, east. Here we e ^ ^^ \aitea ai !lced ejitremely cold. A^/ n^ ^^^ getting to • ht o'clock, for encampment , ^^^ ^^ *' !'^ raUcoveredthat the feet of nme ^^ ^j ^nade, we discove ^^^ misiortune, oi niifht we had no pr" p»;..anre 28 miles. Sat 18 1-2° '^r Jl^f^^ed «.o .rf *e m l«6 J-"-"";' ^r^rZ myself, who fortunatd! • oi-pa • rthe doctor ana u j to hunt soim-I t£:U *«e balls^ '^f deluded it ^ 4 hLot »»d '^*°"' rf We »g^ tool' *^ *'^r • after cra«Ung*o«t one m^«^^^^,,^aplij . eight times among a gang j^^ly wounded. b»t hy^ !^ceive two or three to beba Y ^^ C.l^ took the wmd erf v., »d .^^ ^ ^^^ ^ ti^ aU were aWe '« '"f f^ "{be fourth day, sm« extrem^iy weAandfamt.b^g ^^ ^^„ ^ Zi recived s"^"'"*"'! ^,a1,arcely dosed our eye* tog hardandthe last "^J^^tour J to apoint of ^j iL We were mchwng our c ^selves nil SLinTd to remain absent and d. by there woods at XM) in the )igirho(e lit com* ing fires out tnen I bothoi gnoometa af tbemevl f0tt»naA«*t| J pounded »] [atton to sttj i it ^«3 ^1 jidsatup*! able to s\ee^| ,k the field got to sb( \ cou\d p^^i ^,btttbya great too lhadbec< h day, si»<^« ^e were ©' 3sed our eyes a point of ^' ourselves rai TO THE SOURCES OP THE ARKANSAW, kc. 187 than to return to our camp and behold the misery of our poor lads, when we discovered a gang of buffalo coming along at some distance. With great exertions I made out to run and place myself behind some cedars and by the greatest of good luck, the first shot stopped one, which we killed in three more shots ; and by the dusk had cut each of us a heavy load with which we determined imme« diately to proceed to the camp in order to relieve the anx- iety of our men, and carry the poor fellows some food. We arrived there about 12 o'clock, and when I threw my load down, it was with difficulty I prevented myself from falling ; I was attacked with a gkldiness of the head, which lasted for some minutes. On the countenances of the men was not a frown, nor a desponding eye ;: but all seemed iiaj^py to hail their officer and companions, yet not a mouthftil had they eat for four days. On demanding what was their thoughts, the sergeant replied, on the mor» row the most robust had determined to set out in search of us; and not return unless they found us, or killed something to preserve the life of their starving compa- nions. 20tb January f Tuesday.-^The doctor and all the men able to march, returned to die buffalo to bring in the lalanceofthemeat. On examining the feet of those who were frozen we d it impossible for two of them to proceed, and others only without loads by the help of a stick. One the former was my waiter, a promising young lad of «ty whose' feet were so badly frozen, as to present ery probability <^ loosing them. The doctor and party returned towards evening load- with the buffalo meat. 2} St January, Wednesday.-^This day, separated the lur loads, we intended to leave and took them at some diiu i-^wSI IM JOURNAL OF A VOYAGfi tance from the camp, where we securedtheni^i went up to the foot of the mountaia to see what prospect there waa of being able to cross it, but had not more thanfinrly arrived at its base, when I found the snow four or five feet deep ; this obliged me to determine to proceed and cotoyer die mountain to the south, where it appeared lower, and until we found a place where we could cross. 22d January, Thursday. — ^I furnished the two poor lads who were to remain with anmiunition and made use of every argument in my power to encourage them to have fortitude to resist thdur fate ; and gave them assurance of my sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but not without tears. We pursued our march, taking merely sufficient provisions for one meal in order to leave as much as possible for the two poor fellows, who remained (who were John Sparks and Thomas Dough* erty.) We went on eight miles and encamped ona little creek, which came down from the mountains ; at three o'clock went out to hunt, but killed nothing. Little snow. 23d January, Friday.-^Aiter shemng the sergeant a point to steer for, the doctor and myself proceeded oa ahead in hopes to kill something, as we were again without victuals. About one o'clock it commenced snowing veiy hard, we retreated to a small copse of pine where we coo^ structed a camp to shelter us, and as it was time the paitj should arrive, we sallied forth to search them. Viti separated and had not marched more than one or tm miles, when I found it impossible to keep any course widv out the compass, continually In my hand, and then notj being able to see more than 10 yards. I began to percdi the difficulty even of finding the way back to our> cam] and I can scarcely co;aceive a more dreadful idea than re maining on the wild, where inevitable death must have enj i^uedf It was with great pleasure I again reached the cam] poly he ver to itunnotice We ausp fed limbs lyself wh le plain. Proceed uit oft! The dc and got er, and untU '^•*«.«l^ finding dteZ^ J^*J™»«» *«>i am "oumain. in which w^H^^P' *« ««vette of V » deep, it wa. :„Z. f .P*'*^««d, until the snn» k .„ *^ ""^"nixxi^letoniuowj ™*™ow became I f "J ^« '0 4ephin„d L Z? i when I again turn- fou"'' "y^df di«ou«^ed, L ;l'^ *!»« in the voyage »»" express himself inVsi^ *"'*»« t heard a :*«i' was mot.^u^tnlTr"' "^^'^^ "march three davs unVK mature couJd bear f« "^s"&c. &c. ^^ burthens only fit for hor H he could not en^J^fe^? "^ ^ P°°''-«Uoi? h«- to chastise him. ^h^J ""? *»' i' *as i„ * t ""noticed for the mom^Mei;*^' P">P^. I passed .^ auspicious time. X j^fT"' *" "°*« it at a Wjnnhs along. ^ Zl^Z^^^^^^ mit who were in advanr^ w; •^'^^ doctor and ^Pbin. when we leff ^1^^'^ "". """^ '^'^^- 'P-oceed tothenearestwoS^'^""'^ °»*«»ow. "»-of4ebuiaio.wK:^°orr'- "^^"^'^ ' The doctor who wa« a ■ "* "O"*- "-"got behind a hranSfl'-t'"'*^ ™^«f. and Shot one down, which stop. y jl m JOURNAL OF A VOYAO£ |i'*N ti i'i'ii!' r jM.. Tsla ».i--b?p:». ■m'm KK *: PI- nil m fir' i ■(■» M « ped the remalniler. We. crawled up to the detd one md ahot from him as many as twelve or fourteen times among the gang ; when th«y removed out of sight. We then proceeded to butcher the one we had shot ; and after procuring each of us a load of the meat, we marched for the camp, the smoke of which was in view. We arrived at the camp to the great joy of our brave lads, who imm^ diately feasted sumptuously, after our repast I sent for the lad who had presumed to speak dbcontentedly in t&e course of the day, and addressed him to the following ef. ect : *' Brown, you this day presumed to make use of las. ** guage which was seditious and mutinous ; I then pass* '^ ed it over, pitying your atuation and attributing it (i ** your distress, rather than yout inclination, to sow dis< ^* content toiongst the party. Had I reserved provisions ^< for ourselves, whilst you were starving } had we beeg ^ marching along light and at our ease, whilst you were ^' weighed down with your burden ; then you would have ** had some pretext for your observations ; but when m ^< were equally hungry, weary, emaciated and charged « with burden, which I believe my natural strength is lesi *' able to bear, than any man's hi the party ; \dien we w ** always foremost in breaking the road, reconnoitering andHto cross ** the fetigues of the chace; it was the height of ingratitudtlour depc *< in you, to let an expression escape 'W^ch was indica*! «( tive of discontent ; your ready compliance and firm per *< severance j I had reason to expect, as the leader of mi ** and my companions, in miseries and dangers. But youivafers off « duty as a soldier called on your obedience to your oificerV4 mi/es. assi to I storn contii so We perish 1 threeo atwhic ac itooast aodieai iepoak lage&c 87/ <* and a prohibition of such language, which for this timej ** I will pardon, but assure you, should it ever be repeate <« by instant death, I will revenge your ingratitude ** punish your disobedience, f take this opportunity likd «< wise to assure you, soldiers generally of my thanks 2m\ discoi itoqt, itedj te lengthl .i"!l' TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, Itc. 191 otieind n 6fMt Kt. We and after ^hedfor re arrived lentforthe dly in Ae jUovringel- »use of bfr I thcnpa*- ed proviaoM bad-wcbea hilst you vreR ,^ would te \)ut vhcn ^ and clwrgei strength is lea ^enweatt ** obedience, penefvcraoce md ready cootempt of tv«ry <* danger, which you hsve generally evinced i I asture yot <« nothing ahall be wanting on my pait, to procure fou «< the rewardt of our government and gntitnde of yoor •< countrymen." They all appeared very much affected, and retired with assurances of perseverance in duty &c. Distance 9 mttes. 2Stb January, Surulaf**^ determined never again to march with ao little provisioi on hand ) as had the atom continued one day ionger, the animals would hsve ccmtinued in the mountains, and we should have became so weak as not to be able to hunt, and of course haive perished. The doctor went out with the boys, and they secured three of the buffalo $ we commenced bringing in the meat^ at v^ch we continued all day. > ^6tb January^ M«nday*'^-4^ki aU the meatand dried it on a scaffold, imendmg to take as much as possible akmg and leave one of my fh>zen lads with the balance, as li I deposit for the parties who might retnm for their bag* I gage &c. on their way to Baroney's camp. ItftB January, Tuesday, — We marched, determining . ^- anlBtocJfoas the mountp'Tis, leaving Memtugh encamped with Ich ^^ in^o-l ice and firm pcr.| le leader of tne Butr oiBcerj Lgers [e to your Ich for this tim« ever be repeat ingratitude jpportunity uw jf my tlwn^ our deposit, afte^ a bad days march, ihiiough sMXin, some three. feet deep; we struck oh a brook which led which I followed down, and shortly came to a small running west ; which We hailed with fervency as the ers of the Red river. $a|r some sign of elk. Distance 4miles. - <'\^>-i:l .^iii 'Hftir, ■ h 2Sih January, J^ednisday.^-'VoViowid down the ravine discovered after some time that there had been a road It ot|t, and on many trees wefe various hieroglyphicks ted ; after marching some miles, we discovered through le lengthy vista at a distance, another chain of mountains mi"* U'A if v-wm mm If 1 JOUUNAI. OF A VOYAGE i. outUt of the "«»«r*;^ rand the moaatam..... bright; kept ^-".^S'^of theUrge- hiU. TVhen we encamped, I Mce™ ^j^. Urge nm, rf ^ and ^i.hmygl--^'^ ^ b^ ea*. through ao,ring nearly norA ^^r^^ cfcain of mountaB-, d«pWn*hich«n«o<»t«»r ^een the two mou.. Xut U. 7«' W. the P»«^ T*! returned to can, X. bor* nearly nor* »»f «» Vaand WU» «««^ ^Aen^wsof my^ven^; ^, „„„.««»«**«. •^Set^s^^pS^trsr-^/..:^- ^--^S^r?^^ ^ toe. we -"^..^Cncefromthemou. «hlch m«ledowna ^^^^ ot horses. ^. Distance n»^^j;^,,^ hard, and «• 8ai J«««ry. f-^- ^,,^ ^u«v supposed ReJ ^,edinthe^en>«^^^Xce2*nules. J river) of the Rio ^fj„^As there was no timbet I «'»J--'>^tS^i we found tW here ^. <»««™rtl^Tdescend the river M^ ia order ton>al« »n«»P°f^^„„datfoutorfivenusH ^here we '»'8'>' «f*tce^S"^^ barbarity c' ' aefendagai^tt^e-n^-^;^ « «siston*. ,. savages, whilt the ^^^ ^ ^gaent pourts. fellows wKo >»«* i^^r^ „et a large west bran. •^•"t^i^-c £^-«^ "p ^■'^'=^ '^'""^ emptying m <- Jie v****** I' 'iJi'i." i!ii;i « I: which led) on sertto It VuUft e river, through a mouiw to cainip extend «i8iah«tt vridth* leseaini vegeta:^ TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, kc. Ifi^ we took Up our stadon. Killed one deer. Distance I'S UtF0btrmuji Stm^^y^'^ladd out the place for our vorl'f, aad ^y night, killed on« deer, at the distance of seven or ^ht miles from camp, which we carried in. Sd February, Tutsday.^^pent in reading, &c. 4tb February^ Wl?^' t Ly.— Went out hunting, but could not kill any *^.n.^ 0< .e of my men killed a deer. Stb February, Thfrsday, — ^The doctor and myself went out to hi.?>t, and alter chasing some deer for several hours, with r. Access, we ascended a high hill, which lay south of our camp, from whence we had a view of all the pral*')e and riverft to the north of us \ it was at the same dme one of: the most sublime and beautiful inland pro^ spects ever presented to the eyes of man. The prairss lying nearly north and south, was orobably 60 miles by 45. The main river bursting out of the western mountain^ and meeting from the north-east, a large branch, which A 9Sid U'ldivides the chain of mountains, proceeds down[the prairie, nnosed Kedlmaking many large and beautiful islands, one of which I 'les Budge contsuns 100,000 acres of land, all meadow ground,r no timbaftovered with innumerable herds of deer ; about six miles If ^^.^ ^beit Kram the mountsdns which cross the prairie, at the south id, a branch of 12 steps wide, pays its tribute to the lain stream from the west course. Due "W. 12". N. 75% '^'' 6*. Four miles below is a stream of the same size, * .nters c uie east ; its general course is N. 65°. E. wriich was a large'road j from the entrance of this down, about three miles, to the junction of the west fork, ich waters the foot of the hill on the north, whilst the river wound along in meanders on the east. In short, Bb Ustance tw tver.inad*- 5 of woods, theino^ ^e river orfiveiwg' larbarity^' 5t on di^ I points. te west bra»' )Utfivenul< L A k ^ntl 194, JOURNAL or A VOYAGE »A 'i ir-W t this view combined the sublime and beautiful ; itbe great and lofty mountains covered with eternal snows, seemed to surround the luxuriant vale, crowned with ^pierennial flowers, like a terrestrial paradise, shut out from the view of man. " '' ■ '■>'■ r"-'- ' ■ ' " ' ' 6th February, Friday.'^The doctor having somepe. cuniary demands in the province of New Mexico^ con- ceived this to be the most eligible point for him to go in, ..id return p.^vious to all my party having joined me from the ArkansaW, and that I was prepared to descend to Natchitoches : he dierefore this day made his preparatioos for marching to-morrow. I went out hunting, and killed a deer at three miles distance, which, with great difficulty I brought in whole. mhw, We continued to go on with the works of oyr stock, ade or breast work, which was situated on the north banki of the west branch, about five miles from its junction with] the main river, and was on a strong plan.* i pa ike ha\ col wit/ thet with toog ^gree cause cei ve ^ them; * The stockade was situated in a small prairie on the west fork of the Rio M Norte- The south flank joining the edge of the river (which at that place m I not fordable), the east and west cur -tins were flanked by bastions in the north-oitj and north-west angles, which likewise flanked the curtam of the north side of tkl work. The stockade from the ceiitre of the angle of the bastions was 36 1 square. There were heavy cotton-wood log j, about two feet diameter, laid if I all round about six feet, after which lighter ones, until we made it twelve fcttil height : those logs were joined together by a lap of about two feet at each ail| Wc then dug a small ditch on the inside all round, making it perpendicular on t internal side and sloping next the work. In this ditch we planted small stakes,^ about six inches diameter, sharpened at the upper end to a nice point, slanted th over the top of the work, giving them about two feet and a half projection. W(| then secured them below and above in that position, which formed a small pointei firise, which must have been removed before the works could have been la Lastly, we had dug a ditch round the whole four feet wide, and let the watu i| all round, the earth taken out being thrown against the work formed an excelled rampart against small arms three or four feet high. Our mode of getting in ^ to crawl over the ditch gn a plank, and into a small hole sunk below the level P^ trade, force I the work near the river for that purpose. Our port-holes were pierced abont e!v'°>> a^ a citjzj feet from the gtound, and a platform prepared tu shoot from. r^^^ or deman] _*'«d mhabita TO THE SOURCES OF THE A pv. ^f I HE ARKANSAW «r J ,« for &nta Fe.. and as it ^ ^^l^*™" '"^^h'd alone danan would ever j« ^"eges, vie. in 3ki„„i„ oTI ! T ^^''^-n^i do i„ •""■out ever endeavourin/to^^tl^""'' "'' '^^^, *e solid foundations Zn\^^ *emselves masters of -•* Aese qualifiS he l?°r "*"'»<' '•««on^f '«> g«at ever to reje^ a^ hCh:"^^"'^""'^ °f -^d agreeable to the do^as of T^n ^"^ '' "^ "<« causeithadallthc'^iatrfit ." '"f"<^'^*>-- «ve great actions, and his h»7~*' '°"' ^""'d con- ^^ ^ •"'^ ™at nothing was ^ - escape «nd^ 11?" T' "^^ '"« «>' second It lT,f' '"'^^'''^ '^ 'oo '^Wmate. were in .Zei *'''^"'»° ^d on persons in CwT ""• ^""• Nson. conceS fw """"" '" *■« «*« benefit. Wh2T J'*"**^ '»'* [n the R./!: ^ ^"* " *^« P''?«We that I «;!».» ' *"' »'"'"* ^o ««/. F'lfldTirr "^.-^''^ '^-S. n :Ttr '^^"'■"' ^-^» »;^^sa„taPe.Ts:e:::::::^^^^^-'^^n^^^^^ ; J 196 JOURNAL OF A VOYAdR mx Ilii '' 'M'- above I^s genius, nor any thing so nunulie that )wi coo. ceived it entirely unworthy-of consilSeration. M a fs/enn^ man and companion in dangers, difficulties and hardship^ I in particular, and the expedition, generally) owe much to his exertions. In the evening I dispatc^ied corpoud Jackson* with four men, to re-cross the mountains, in or- der to bring in the baggage left with the frozen lads, and to see if they were yet able to come on. This detach, ment l^ft me with four men only ; two of which had their feet frozen : they were empbyed in finishing the stoct ade, and myself to support them by the chase. 8tb February, Sz/n<%.— -Refreshing my memory as to the French grammar, and overseeing the works. 9/A February, Monday, — Hunting, &c, lOth February, Tuesday, — Read and labored at our works. 1 1th February, Wednesday, — Hunting. Killed three deer. I2tb February, Thursday, — Studying. I3th February, Friday. — ^Hunting. Killed two I deer. 14iih February, Saturday, — Crossed the river and ex- amined the numerous springs, which issued froip. the foot! of the hill, opposite to our camp, which were so strongly! impregnated with mineral qualities, as not only to keep clear of ice previous to their joining the main branch, but! to keep open the west fork until its junction with the mainl river, and for a few miles afterwards, whilst all the otherj branches in the neighbourhood were bound in the ada-j m^tine chains of winter. 15th February, Sunday, — Reading, &e. Work going on. IQth February, Monday, — I took one man and wenj out hunting, about six miles from the post, shot «r^ red at QW iCiUed three Killed tvioi iver and ex- FroiP. the fool [e so strongly only to kee? branch, b\A| ;ith the msuni id in &c. 'lii! [post, shot m 198 JOURNAL OP A VOYAGE I /- We were on Red river, and of course in the t eT ritiir y claimed \^ the Uinted States. We took the road to my fort, and as they were on horseback, they travelled rather faster than myself; they w^e halted by the sentinel, and immediately red:«ated much surprised. When I came up, I took them in, and then explained to them, as well as possible, my mtentions of descending the river to Natchitoches, but ait the same time told them that if governor Allencaster would send cot an officer with an interpreter, who spoke French or Eng. lishy I would do myself the pleasure to give his excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to my intentions in com. ing on his frontiers. They informed me that on the se- cond day they would be in Santa Fe, but were careful ne* yer to suggest an idea of my being on the Rio del Norte. As they concluded, I did not think as I spoke ; they were very anxious to ascertain our numbers, &c. ; seeing only five men here, they could not believe we came without j horses, &c. To this I did not think proper to give then any satisfaction, giving them to understand we were in | many parties, &c. 17/A February, Tuesday.-^n the morning,, our twl Spanish visitors departed, after I had made them somel trifling presents, with which they seemed highly delightedl After their departure, we commenced working at our littlej work, as I thought it probable the governor might dispuu my right to descend the Red river^ and send out Inii or some light party to attack us ; I therefore determine to be as much prepared to receive them as possibl'^;. Th evening the corporal and three of the men arrived, whjie one we I had been sent back to the camp of the frozen lads. Theli5;>^ ^-^ . informed meithat two men would arrive the next day ; ^Anmand oi of which was Menaugh, who had been left alone on ^mountain] 27th January, but that the other two, Dougherty ai|itnoiv„ j. TO THE SOURCES OP THE AB, Wed them ^-jh tea, of ■folT'^]*!'*'''' *«*ey ferf «»«l"«so uag«iert,uI^^^'«y<;ouid suspect me of Aeu-n«,ve homes, and Sf .°'^'°^ *><"* seeiiJ P^ cou„.^i,,fl,r "^Sf^^vediathebo^,™ o7! I •'"US those nnn.. I j "^fir « *--~c^^of m"^?"** ^"*. made of .heu- course, doomed T^T^ ^ » 4ep^" k™^ and „,„, , fo, „^ *: "«»'nder of their H °»»o buy a manlusvic^;,'^,*'' pension? "ot suffi! H ; m the erenin I om^STj** °*«- ««» boys a., hrq«re tomarch Uor^ ft rKf"' »»d o„/„^ b ^°*»*°P>«er, h^5l ** ^^fc-^aw, where ' H on h,s retu™ ,o%ri^X2,t;. r ''"«*''» "^ p« mountains. ^ *"*' "ho *ere sti« i^ '9'* February 7-A. j Je*. mashed „i.(^„f^;;f ''^r^^lKeant Wil«am E. *..and 1 took three o^lt "^ *^ ^""'^O'* K^hstaace. i„ onJer to polrout ^^'""'^y ^ °« domain, which I conceiv^" 'r I K^*" » P^ h> the h"e we had come. I musTr '' ^"' ''<"• '""^ Aaa K discipline and e^mrte in^'^T'' ** ^^ctof >"»and of more than ,^1-^ '°''"^ "''"dting a [mountains covered „K^' T.'*" «'«««4 a nation, with whpm JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE '*"' j_Mndintf 3 and to peifntfi tet me a* v,tat «ouU °»^^^pped? ^et *«. bring »"'*:*?i,*'t*^-^-" !!rje^ „oi volunteered «, ««" «»«. honored iiwel«» X^h they thought t*«™*r.^^ out «he p». compmied them about .»« "^' '"j^, ,he coqK.nL.. !Lr.«l that the ^"^-^IZ^,^ r«^^^ Lpas8able,:lis»ingbeen-«biwday» .^ ^,,„,^^,.^ deep. T!wineWUed»d«er,»cBf« ^ We then separated and havMg M ^^ ^^^ , kepton my e^pto"^ ^^^ i„^iog to «tom'.p^*' , « some kagues fr^ "',^^Ld on a small creek whid ,trine,o'clockatmgte,enc^P«" ^^,,ou«e. e„,pried into the ""^^^^^emarched do»ntben«. fcafewho«,«,bat«^nofr^'^^„P^„teh «*er object to »«7 ff^^^.f h„„«. »d men on * AefortV discovered tteis^^^^^elU " 21rt rtbruar/, «"« ~^^ ^^^ j^ harboring ro. possibly some party of •»«^ ™f « b ^^^^ . !gave^rdcularorde«»^r^.rf^J„, but if^H ^ple .o ^O^;"' "..^ff^Aemselves to be ^ „ever to run, "-d nf^ ° ^»^„^ ^^.^ver part, i>^ „ taken prisoners but cona ^^^_^,^ .„. , «l.hem, if they could not escape w ^^ ^^ .^ on[n m TO TH£ SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW.&c. 301. studying, reading &c. Working at our ditch to bring the river round the works. 23d February f Monday^-^Keaudiing^ writing &e. the men at their usu?! work, &c> 24th February^ Tuesday,'~^To6k, one man, with me and went out on the Spanish road hunting; killed one^ deer and wounded several others) and as we were a great distance from the fort, we encamped near the road all night* Saw several signs of horses. > 2Stb February, Wednesday.^r^KHled two more dee« when we marched for our post. Took all three of the deer with us, and arrived about 9 o'clock at night, as much fiitigued &c. as ever I was in my life. Our arrival dissi- pated the anxiety of the men, who b^an to be appreheik?> I sive we were taken or killed by some of th^s savages* , ;i ' 26tb February, Tbursehy^-^^hi.lke mowm^ was^i^ jprized by the report of a gun, from my lookout guand ;* of the approach of strangers. ImmiSdiately jaiter ^o Frenchmen arrived. - , ^ My sentinel halted them and ordered them to be, ad- lutted after some questions ; they informed me that his iccellency governor Allencaster had heard it was thein- ntion of the Utah Indians^, to attack me ; had 4etache4, officer with 50 dragoons to come out and protect me, I that they would be here in two days. To this I mad^e reply ; but shortly after the party came in sight to the ir of, I afterwards learnt 50 dragoons and 50 ited militia of the province, armed in the same man- viz : Lances, escopates and pistols. My sentinel pted them at the distance of about 50 yards. I had the pks manned. I thought it most proper to send out the Frenchmen to inform the commanding officer that it , «a(W' ^y ^^^^st he should leave his party in a small copse the y^ jipoods where he halted, and tliat I would meet him my- c c or of a 8Q» J0UB1«A1.. Q^ A \ OYAGE r a lelf in the prairie, in whidi our vork was situated, TJUs I did, with my sword on me only. When I w^ introduced - to Don Ignatio Saltelq and Don Barthalemew Fetmandez, two lieutenants, the former the commandant of the party. J gave them an invitation to enter the works, but requested the troopg' might remain where they w«re ; this waa cQm< plied with, but when tfaey came round and discoveired that ^0 eater, they were obliged to crawl on their bellies over a small draw-bridge, they appeared astonished but entered without further hesitation. We first break£uted on some deer, meal, goose and some biscuit (which the civilized indian who came out as a spy) ^ad brought me. After breakfast the commanding offider s|4dressed me as follows : *^ Sir, the governor of '' New Mexico, being in£anned you had missed your route, ^jnrdered me to; rfferyou, in his name, mules, horses,. ^ knoney^ or whatever you may stand in need of to cooJ <^ 4uct you to the head of Red river ; as fi'om Santa Fe i»| *' where it is sometimes navigable, is e^ht days joumen << and we have guides and the routes of the traders <' conduct us.'* '* What, said I, (interrupting him) is notl ** diis the Red river," «f No sir ! the Rio del Norte." l| immediately ordered my flag to be taken down and I'oL^^ up, feeling how sensibly I had committed myself, in enterl ^ ^^^ vheir My ing thi^ territory, ^d was conscious that they must hai positive orders to take me in. *' He now" added " that he had provided one hi " dred mules and horses^ to take in my party and bag] ** and how anxious his excellency was to see me at S^_ *' Fe." I stated to him, the absence of my sergeant, d» y ^^ situation of the balance of the party and that my ord«» , J^ ^"®i would not justify my entering into the Spanish territory. M "® I urged still! further until I began to feel myself a little heati , * ^"^i ifi the argument and told him ia a peremptory stylej ^"*s ro THE SOUnCES OF THE ARKANSAW, 8cc. 30S Dusl )duced i^iidezt p party. >quested aa com* ^edt)i>>3ft eft over a t entered 78< would not go until the airi^al of my sergeant with ttie ba- lance of the party. He replied that there was not the least re- straint to be used, only that it was necessary his excellency should receive an explanation of my business on his froii- der, but that I .ould go now, or on the arrival of my party ; but that it none went in at present he should be obliged to send in for provisions, but that if I would now march, he would leave an Indian mterpreter and an esw cort of diagdons to conduct the sergeant into Santa Fe. His mildness induced me to tell him that I would march, but must leave two men, in order to meet the sergeant and party, to instruct him as to coming in, as he never would come without a fight, if not ordered. I was induced to consent to the measure, by convic- tion, that the officer had positive orders to bring me in, and as I had no orders to commit hostilities, and indeed had committed myself, although innocently, by violating their territory, I conceived it would appear better to shew a will to come to an explanation than to be any way con- strained ; yet my situation was so eligible, and I could so easily have put them at defiance, that it was with great re- luctance I suffered all our labor to be lost without once trying the efficacy of it. My compliance seemed to spread general joy through ey must u*^their party as soon as it was communicated, but it appear- to be different with my men, who wished to have a Ut- ile dust (as they expressed themselves) and were likewise learfiil of treachery. My determination being once taken, I gave permis- m for the Spanish lieutenant's men to come to the out- at my o^°Jide of the works, and some of mine to go out and see sh territory* Wem ; when the hospitality and goodness of the Creoles \i a Uttle heamd Metifs began to manifest itself by their producing ttnptory m iidedonebi tyaxxdbag! jee me atSa sergeant, ^t n *" '°^r^^, U to mt men, covering tta» .k-rofwWon and gwmg « » »J ^ SSr blankeB, &c. ^ ^ tovin, 1 I i» PIKERS EXPEDITION. PART III. DIARY OF A TOUR, MADE THROUGH THE INTERIOR V'^OVINCES OF NEW SPAIN, IN THE YEAR 1807, SY CAPTAIN Z. M. PIKE, OF THE ARMY OF TIIB UNITED STATES, WHEN UNDER AN ESCORT OV SPANISH DRAGOONS. ^Vb February^ Friday* — In the morning I dis- [covered the Spanish lieutenant, was writing letters ad- I dressed to the governor and others ; on which I demanded [if he was not going on with me to Santa Fe. He appeared jconfused and said no : that his orders were so positive as |to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that he dare Dot go and leave any behind ; that his companion would ccompany me to Santa Fe with 50 men, whilst he with he others would wait for the sergeant and his party. I eplied that he had deceived me and had not acted with idor ; but that it was now too late for me to remedy the «1. We marched about 1 1 o'clock, ascending the Rio del forte, five miles more S. 60° W. when we went round brough a chain of hills and bore off to the south. We roceeded on nine miles further, when we crossed the 90d JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ! '1 main branch of that stream, which was now bearing near- ly west towards the main chain of the third chain of moun- tains. We encamped on the opposite side. Distance 15 miles. Intensely cold, obliged to stop frequently and make fires. Snow deep. 28th February, Saturday* — Vl'i marched late. One of the Frenchmen informed me, that the expedition which had been at the Pawnees, had descended the Red river 233 leagues and from thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in search of my party (this was afterwards confirmed by the gentleman who conmianded the troops.) He then ex< pressed great regret at my misfortunes, as he termed them in being taken, and offered his services in secreting pa. pers &c. I took him at his word, and for my amusement I thought I would try him akid give him, a leaf or two of my journal (copied) which mentioned the time of mj sailing from Belle Fontaine, and our force. This 1 charged htm to guard very carefully and give to me after the inves> ligation of my papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw i herd of w^ld horses. The Spaniards pursued them ad caught two colts, one of which the Indians killed and eat;, the odier was let go. We pursued our journey over 60ok{ hills, where the snow was very dtep, and encamped at on the top of a pretty high hill, aniong some pines, tance 36 miles. We left the river which in general about 6, 8, and 10 miles to the left or east of us. great sign of elk. 1*/ March, Sunday, — ^We marched early and althouj we rode very hard we only got to the village of L'l Chaud or Warm Spring, sometime in the afternoon, wl was about 45 miles. The difference of climslte astonishing, after we left the hills and deep snows found ourselves on plams where there was no snow, where vegetation was sprouting. 2dA verai Ut '^h had onstructi, ^e sava c • See dcMct III. P-,16. bearing near- hainofmoun- Distance 15 ntly and make id late. One pedition v^hich Red river 233 nees expressly nfirmed by the He then ex. le termed them 1 secreting pa. my amusement I leaf or two of le time of my This 1 charged after the inves. day we -saw i ued them and ! killed and eat; imey over 66m\ 3icamped at ne pines. 1 in general ist of us. Si C» thaV h,«4„x J *?^ W.™ Spring, . m we country. " /^*«. previous to nnr iiiaiae of the enclosure/ were narrow, the ^nT ' ^^ ^^ one storv • *!, j . ' .'^ ■ '^e -We had a dance ^h: u . '^^^^^i* ^.J there was one wl^h was ^ '! ^^^ *^ ^-^^^o «d « BOW danced in .u ^ *^°P'^^ ^om the m . "^ * Th,».vi%e „,y c^J* '^"^"^ Madrid.. ^ IWimcoDDPi. «« J -^y" appeared frt u • *"***"ent 21/ Marc/, mJS "^^^-^Paivards. ^'^^ *' ««« Pstruction, to defend the inh u- ^"^^^ shape and K^e savages t ' . "*^^^^fants from fh« • ' ^ .^'^^ ' ^JwripiOTj-aj- °™"s of several ' ^'' '" 'Appendix eo I: I't*. y II ti 300 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE )T >• f * ' « «( M old villages, which had been taken an^ destroyed %y the Tetaus. We were frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into thdbr houses to eat; and hi every place where we halted a moment, there Was a contest who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen, were conducted home by old men, who would cause then* daughters to dress their feet ; provide their victuals and drink, and at night, gave them the best bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought to my recollection die hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me to sigh with regret at the corrupdon of that noble principle, by the polish of modem ages. We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente, about 12 miles, where it joined the river of Gonejos from die west. This river was about SO yards wide, and was set> tied, above its juncdon with the Aqua Caliente, 12 miles, as the latter was its whole course from the village of that name. From where they form a juncdon, it was aboiit 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern branch of which was situated the village of St. John's,- which \ni the residence of the president pricist.of the province^ who had resided in it 40 years. i The house tops of the village of St. John's, were Bshment crowded, as well as the streets, when we entered, and t\ the door of the public quarters, we were met by th^ pre^ sident priest. When my companion who commanded] the escort, received him in a street and ienibraced him, all| the poor creatures who stood round, strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy hiher ; for myself, I saluted hiii in the usual style. My men were crnducted into thej quarters, and I went to the house of the priest, where were treated with politeness : he offered us coiFee, choco late, or whatever we thought proper, and desired, me consider myself p*^ home in his house. £i c S( m sj> dUFert counti the rot mgbec somecc myhavii *oinniui] rather in and ^tc to be an some pet As I was gomg „„j ^ my ii.en,Iwa» addressed atXrf,. *M»yhavmgappea:edon the frantiT '1™"''" "''^S-s in tonmunicaoons which mi much : , .,..«edhiJ«.; that he had tn ZdZ^t.,"^ "°' *° »j'»^ ,e to K155 .» ~-.cu, mat He begged me for r^' 7 *' ^ ""« ; I saluted hi* m; that he had tn ZlZ^t .^^ "°' *° "J"'^ Kted into ihi «tme. and endeavour to ti^ce I. .*°'''™"»' «» riest, where « », and what were mv desi«'*!.*f'^%^ceUency ^ouW S"**' attl that I questioned ^ his ex , afting of us an easy task. y^^ j^ad come This man's name was Baptiste i^ . ^ from the Illinois to the Pawnees, to t«^f "^^"^^Me^icr^th the goods, Illinois, and from thence t° J^^ himself, and «» «hich he had procured ^^^^ , ^^^ He re- thesamemanonwhomRobmsonnaa ^^j^, Led into theprie..hou.e-*™^«^„^^^^^ i^ any complamt, he m reply Lo„isuma,l ^, &c. informed them, that wto n ^^^ ^^ ^' g-«or of the Uhno. . Jh^J^ ^^, ^^ for granted from my having ^^^ y^,^ Ae'post of Kaslusto. *«,f;\™t^''|„ce .he peace. States had ^^'''''l^hei'" ** „ add to the respect vj* Z^m established '" *- " .X^P- v^lSassoc however the reEPrt served but to^^\^^^^_ HavingW|«ne btaies I**"- , , . add to me rcap^v. ".-— „cai assoc however the report served b»« '°^^»^^^ ^^ Having wi^e i„ hi, wWch my comp^on «™ "- ^ j,^. ^i,h the he«|d,er unde at this place the ^J-^^^^r^ j^^oderate use of tbf „, ^ of the house, at^d perhaps rw. ^j ^^_ .. refreshments allowed »«; P^~ ,h alarmed mecoJ^ thing lite the cholera r^!.'^?„r,o be more abstemioJ siderably.and mademede~» ^, J '"^"""h had^ir-" tion's "f flowers, plants,^ florist : he had Urge c ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^ ^a several -J^s -j> ^o"" ^ ,.^ „„,3 i„ .he d bottoms of "'"''' 77 " ^,her a natural turn forb „„^„^ J,^_ upou at ^c plowed sense, ad come )ods ^r. ^ of the ^e goods, :^ and vfas tte te. jadofmak. jtneVvetooli ,r some time t the Vx^i^ the peace? respect vnth Having 1 with the U] Irate use of tit tack of som*| ■med me coi >re absteiiuoi .list, or ratl^' Its, Plants, :he tnargm the V for kea in ral turn THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCI i, 8cc. 311 ^ve me nearly for two hours on those subjects, but by the exercise of a small degree of patience, I entirely ac- quired the esteem of this worthy father, he calling me his son, and lamenting extremely that my fate had not made me one of the holy catholic church.*' St. John's was enclosed with a mud wall, and pro- bably contained 1000 souls ; its population consisted prin- cipally of civilized Indians, as indeed does all the village of New Mexico, the whites not forming the one twentieth part of the inhabitants. 3d March, Tuesday. — ^We marched after breakfiist, B. Lalande accompanying us, and in about six miles came to a village, where I suppose there were more than 2000 > souls. Here we halted at the house of the priest, who understanding that I would not kiss his hand, would not present it to me. "^ The conduct and behaviour of a young priest who came in, was such as in our country would have been am- ply sufficient forever to have banished him from the cle- rical association, strutting about with a dirk in his boot, a cane in his hand, whispering to one girl, chucking ano- ther under the chin, and going out with a third. Sec, 'torn this village to another small village of 500 inhabi- ts, is seven miles. At each of those villages is a small tream, sufficient for the purpose of watering their fields, t the father's house we took coflFee. From this village, was 17 miles to another of 400 civilized Indians. Here e changed horses and prepared for entering the capital, hich we came in sight of in the evening. It is situated Qg the banks of a small creek, which comes down from le mountains, and runs west-to the Rio del Norte, The 5; U I V head tn^Wgth of the capital on the creek may be estimated at onis the CastiUa'ttfce ; it is but three streets in width. he continue | • See Appendix to Pan m. [No. 7-] page 69. ■m ml 313 t If liu ioUUNAL OK A VOYAGE _ Ae»me effect as.fl^^*«^^„^, desce,«Bng the ^ seen in «»^fP""« "^o Aurches, the magmficenoe Ohio river. The" »"'^«° contrast to the nuserable of ,hose sueple, form » ««^^^ dde of the^^ ,^earance of the hf»»«^.'°^ equal to 120 or l-W « ^«iu«e of sold.«» hou^ !J j„ ^e centre of 4. ^ . on the ""-^^^^Tt, ^th the quarters fa- the term it) or gov«Mnent nou , .^ occopiedbj ^' ^- .^lfl£ ll g^eralthehouse. ba« . shed before the front, some ^ ^. brick; *econse^e»-j^.%« supposed pop«>a«»j. row. say in general 25 fert- ^^e crowds. 4^ souls. 0»;"rrJ«n«nent house. Whe. leat, and foUowed us to the£ ^^^^ ^ ,^ ^Lnoun«=d, we "«*. "^covered with ski»cl T .ho floors of which were cov" j^^ i rooms, the nooj» annnal. wew* i bufialo. bear, or some ofter^ ,^ ,ppeaM s^Se,rdS^«--^'-^n '""^T^n^. Boyouspe*^""*^ ''*'• '^'' ?ou come to r^onncitre our couna, *°'°".l 1 marched to reconnoitre cfuro^iu Pit,. I «»r^i^ character are you? ?X""C.my;ropercharacter,anofficerof.heV. ,ed St^- ' '«»' ' A„i *is Robinson, is he attached vow party' ' fike- Ho. THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVIlJCES, kc. 2 IS. Qowrmr. Do you know him ? Pike* Tes, he is from St. Louis. [I had under* 3tood the doctor was sent 45 leagues from Santa Fe, un* der a strong guard, and the haughty and unfriendly recep» tion oi the governor induced me to believe war must have been declared, and that if it was known Dr. Robinson accompanied rae, he would be treated with great severity. I was correct in saying he was not attached to my party, for he was only a volunteer, he could not properly be said to be one of my command. 3 Governor, How many men have you ? Pike, Fifteen. Governor, And this Robinson makes sixteen. y Fike, I have already told your excellency that he doe^ not belong to my party, and shall answer no more in- terrogatories on that subject. Governor, When did you leave St. Louis \ Pike, 15th July. Pi/q^ Governor, I think you marched in June. Pike, No, sur ! Governor, Well ! return with Mr. Bartholemew to took pla^l^ house, and come here again at seven o'clock, and bring our papers ; on which we returned to the house of my iend Bartholemew, who seemed much hurt at the in> widi vhich kg the icence serab\e letown 140 0ft ; of the alacei^ Iters for uses bate iooringo^ ; very W; jpulatton'tt crowds se. ^^^«^ g^ vario\u ith sk5mol| v^ted inil appeared,! lew. our ? , • icer counti^J of the^J be attaci Jied At the door of the govemmem house, I met the old prenchman, to whom I had given the scrap of paper on the pth February. He had left us in the morning, and as I appose, hurried in to make his report, and I pi esume had ited this paper to his excellency. I demanded with I look of contempt, if he had made his report ? to which I made reply in an humble tone, and began ^o excuse self, but I did not wait to hear his excuses. At the bur appointed we returned, when the governor demand* H' ,p W V !!^M V I i Lt*>' ' ,0OK«AU OF K VOYAGE ttkeapo~««ionof byhisgu ^ for one Solo- ^ itinedUtely <*f«"^ "^."L, our army, and ««e of *» CoUy, formerly ^^'^'^.^^ We were t^ Ae unfortunate comjony °' " Mme,towl»chl *hrhe ordered Cd'^ ~ "I^X^rovince 1 «as bom; jTed , he then ''^7'*!;';Sd'essed his exceUenc, ^^ered «f "S^^ ^aU did not think it necess^, in French, and told hiro that i ^^„,d be it Tol^ri^tosucha "'-^l^i^^Snth.Unit^lSta,^. Ae pain of reading my conttm-^" ^^ ^„ ^, i p,, ^d my orders from my g"'"'''' " ^ his excellency tte Swdbe netes^UTT «°J^^,as the Spanish go- r^ ^thno hostUe mtennons t^ ^^ leZent,onthe contrary, that I tol P ^,t, ^'^^ against giving them ?«^"'' J^tf »nd f^ toguaru "B o K. convmced tnai luj .h.so. to excellency would bee ^_^ ^,„^h Ae» Bentiments. .^ ,„ see my commisMon and ordaJ .He then '«»»"*«' ^^^^l^^n which he got upanll g»ve me bis h».d, for ^J*^ ^„ of honor a»dj itobe »cq>.aintedw^*"^^=^ ^^ ^ .ake j S-r^bU^thTrrmorrow he would maKe ..< ^nk wth me i tnai tt«^ arrangements. _ j^„a by the ,, «A M^cb, Wechm^ J^deT that he might » ,imvor to bring up my ««'*''" . . when he order : Se observations on "yj;,^*^^^ ,.„ceived thej „e to take my trunk over mg ^ ^j ^^ M THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, &c. 213 that the inhabitants were treating the men with liquor.; I was fearful they would become intoxicated, (and through inadvertancy) betray or discover the papers ; I had there- fore obtained several of them and had put them in the trunk, when an officer arrived for myseir and it, and I had no opportunity of taking them out ag'ain before I was taken up to the palace. I discovered instantly that I was deceived, but it was too late to remedy the evil. After examining the contents of my trunks lie in- formed me, I must (with my troops) go to Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear before the commandant- general J he added, you have the key of your trunk in your own possession ; the trunk will be put under charge of the officer who commands your escort. The following conversation then took place. Pike, If we go to Chihuahiua we must be considered as prisoners of war ? Governor, By no means. Pike. You have already disarmed my men Fithout my knowledge, are their arms to be returned or not ? Governor, They can receive them any moi^ent. Pike. But sir, I cannot consent to be led three or four hundred leagues out of my route^ without its being y force of arms. Governor, I know you do not go voluntarily, hut I honor ^n^mjn gjvg yQu ^ certificate from under my hand of my hav^i ajxd take tBrn^g Q^jjgg J y^y ^Q jjjjy.^jj # ^ [uld maJi^® *^ Pike, I will address you a letter on the subject.f Governor, You will dine with me to day, and march brwards to a village about six i^iles distant, escorted by [iptain Anthony D'Alngiansa, with a detachment of dra- ans, who will accompany you to where the remainder and orden,] pie got ^P^ , dhewasha?! I' 5? • See Appendix to Part HI [No. 9.] page 70. t See Appendix to Pact HI. [No> 8>] page 69, mmM 'ill 'i '--I THE gins, boot consequr did the no ceiviog th cald, as p dress, 1 I was dres blanket co fox skins a leather cc appearance as soldiers quently to [with a vari first miprei rf die officer »h ^.„„er«inenttom,ol«r- ma*, in «he ^'T^ rf yours 1th Ml "t** *» * ^ ^ ..^ the house ot «ny i had not to- 1 Aen ««««t^.hU exceUency, «hKh 1 haa . 7„f Ws private secretary twenty ^o,^»oniinon pe Ae h»»^ °* ?^^ ?"^ die amount of the ta"^ ,h,,plKamps like , ^ "" "fTocXahua and that « wouW^ ^ ^^p„ _. for my party «» ^™: -ubsistence ; f""" "^ ^ jj »"^rSSr-uU ^/^^iu^ from »^ ^f T^ received by A^ "^ ^ ,„„pto«2 '^S^cyashirt^^n^^^^i^^ey w- ^^ -^'^'S rw^^fatJneverhadbeen^^J^^jL^ _ " '^■"^'JTS n^d^^^^'^'^^ltidltaaJsiontoM i -^,Cs* f ri :f i^j'iLSpr ,„„aroental parts ot or secondary, leam i tion claimed our first care, t l I ips like I lose obsei uncout] The d iving a vai ices, and le infiueno informe [een the f ir?^-^ THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, See. 917 gins, boots and mockinsons were the next in consideration } consequently, I left all my uniform, clothing, trunks, &c. aa did the men, except what they had on their backs ; con- ceiving that which would secure the feet and legs feom the cold, as preferable to any less indispensable portioik of ouv dress. Thus, when we. presented ourselves at^9ai|t% Fe.} I was dressed in a pair of blue trowseriH mcwklBSQnB, blanket coat and a cap made of scarlet cloth, 'Uned wMh fox skins and my poor fellows in leggings, breech fltfp and leather coats and not a hat in the whole partjivPThis appearance was extremely mortiiying to us all, especially as soldiers, and although some of the officers used fre- quently to observe to me, that ** worth made the man," &c. with a variety of adages to the same amount. Yet the first nnpression made on the ignorant is hard to eradicate ; and a greater proof cannot be given of the ignorance of the lommon people, than thdr asking if we lived in houses Qr ps like the Indians, or if we wore hats in our country | iose observations are sufficient to shew the impression uncouth appearance made amongst them* The dinner at the governor's was » rather splendid, iving a variety of dishes and wines of the southern pro- iCes, and when his excellency was a little warmed with le influence of cheering liquor, he became very sociable, informed me that there existed a serious difficulty be- feen the commandant general of the internal pro- ^-*7"g^p)^ftces and the marquis Caso Calvo, who had given per- A ffltualdJBssion to Mr. Dunbar, to explore the Ouchata contrary to left o4 general principles of their government ; and in conse- ^^ g obv^c^ o^ which, the former had made ifepresentations 'e conseqne' o«\ tothefl^^c^Wency ordered his coach; captain „ D'Almansa, rr\. axnlftJ^®^^'^^^ ^"^ myself entered with him, and he drove - Ajer, 113 miles. He was drawn by six mules and attended by f»^® 1 Ee uoand end 600 party to deaceDd ^ecessarf. irtholetne« ladnotfia. ,overnorb| ioUar8,noi ,»8aUowano Ji be chargti lus 1 clearil pences of the ^M as f 'o*^ cotnptonent^ were xnade ornbya^y ackno^V \'- r.> •, f 218 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE a guard of cavalry. When we parted his adieu wmh r^. member Allencaster, in peace or war." Left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to keep up good disciplibe and not be alarmed or discouraged. As I was about leaving the public square, poor Colly (the Americah prisoner,) came up with tears in his eyes and hop. ed I would not forget him, when I arrived in the United States. Jdter we left the governor we rode on about three miles to a defile where we halted for the troops and I soon found that the old soldier who accompanied us and com. manied our escort was fond of a drop of the cheering liquor, as his boy carried a bottle in his cochmelies (a small leather case attached to the saddle for the purpose of car. rying small articles.) We were accompanied by my friend Bartholemew. We ascended a hill and galloped on uii> ti? about ten o'clock ; snowing hard all the time, when «e came to a precipice which we descended, meeting with great difficulty (from the obscurity of the night) to theHcompi small village where we put up in the quarters of the priest,l(/on] a he being absent. B^xpres! After supper, captain D'Almansa related to me tluKnests he had served his catholic majesty, 40 years to arrive Arbo we the rank he then held, which was a first lieutenant in line, and a captain by brevet, whilst he had seen van young Europeans promoted over his head ; after the man had taken his quantum suffieit and gone to sli my friend and myself sat up for some hours, he plaining to me their situation, the great desire they felt a change of affairs, and an open trade with the Unii States. I pointed out to him with chalk on the floor iBiefs of th geographical connection and route, from North MexjlKer head and Louisiana, and finally gave him a certificate addresi house • to the citizens of the United States, stating his^ frieninor, can no tat vdtl m was, todr mona mdtm I hi raid sh( We; was Is '^Norte, nativ his adieu was H re. nstructions to keep >r discouraged. As f, poor Colly (the n his eyes and hop. red in the United de on about three ; troops and I soon nied us and com. p of the cheering ochmehes (a small he purpose of car* uiied by my ^end id galloped on uii> the time, when we led, meeting witb the night) to the rters of the priest, elated to me tl years to arrive t lieutenant in t had seen vari( ad ; after the •■as decidedly of onin! ''*0' valuabfeT - ^» P»Per "«&l tori" ,.'*''8^. and of .4.?A"^«Mtoou, "*•»«. and d„^; ^''"'fi^mWs ™°T«' *« being "».'h.tweever?k "^ »«e«n l""*" country K'-cft. 0^ ;^ ;;; »«^er affini ; VL'^ °C ItMipiiehend /,„ J,,^'"^ »re. « o ,er * ^"^ of a *»» of con,ie„cet™Vj:^ '"'« ^^-^^ , ""^ ««'« "pressed his ^'™'««' in ou, cou„!^ '^'*<=' free- r''-'a„dfe:r^f'•'''"^u,4d^f^• ^^e l<(,i ' no JOURNAL OV A VOYAO£ '' I!' t tl tv br caj my past. ing of our quarters and ourselves with wood, water, pro- visions ice, for the house itself contained nothing but bare walls and small grated windows, and brought to my recoU lection the representation of the Spanish inhabitants, as given by Dr. Moore in his travels through Spain, Italy, &c. This village as well m that of St. Philip's and St. Bartholemew, are of the nation of Keres, many of whom do not yet speak good Spanish. After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain sent for the keys of the church : when we entered it; and i was much astonished to find enclosed in mud-brick walls, many rich paintings, and the Saint (Domingo) ag large as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver: die captain made a slight inclination of the head, and in> timafed to me, that this was the patron of the village. We then ascended into the gallery, where the choir are g^er* ally placed. In an outside hall was placed another image I of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the populace repaired daily, and knelt to return thanks for benefactioml recdved, or to ask new favors. Many young girls, iii| deed, chose the time of our visit to be on their knees be>| fore the holy patron. From the flat roof of the chuitil We had a delightful view of the village ; the Rio del Nor old our west ; the mountains of St. Dies to the south, the valley round the town, on which werv-* numerous herilBverted h( ofi^oats, sheep, and asses ; and upon the whole, this m|&c. on0 of the handsomest views in New Mexico. \ 6th March, .>/V/a^.— Marched down the Rio Noite on the east side. Snow one foot deep. Pas largl^ flocks of goafs. At the village of St. Philip's, crosj ed at bridge of eight arches, constructed as follows, ' the {^lars made of neat wood work, something similar! a cntt, and in the form of a keel boat, the sharp end,lve to Jcnoi bow,|o the current ; this crate or butment f^as filled ifai^ c^iew I, water, pro- lung but bare t to my recol- ihabitants, as Spain, Italy, lilip's and St. lany of whom le, the captain entered ir, and in mud-brick (Domingo) ag Id and ^Iver: head, and in* le village. Vfe hoir are gifnar. another image re the populace or benefaction! ^oung girls, it^ their knees be. ■ of the churdil e RiodelNoi ) the south, numerous heri whole, this THROUGH THE iNTrnr^., stone. « which the river Jod«.d sand ,'''''' «' become of a toJemble firmTo„^^' "^^^ &c- untij ithaj thepiiiars were Wd p^uTlTt'' ^'^ ^'^^ ^P^ ^o .des. and being j^c^ ^^^^^^^ "^^'^ ^^l^^ecTon Wge for horses, but Zltn^u^r^^' * ^oJemble carn^s. as there were no hand ^^ "^^ "'^ '^^ ^- d giving thl^iet"? "'* ^»'«She [whether natives orSpanii^Si °"^«-*. "^ '"P-btion! IMS or Paeans uu^t. ^ ^''"^ '■barbarou^ri. • (.».^ 1. **™' ""mbers, name .« ». ."*™"s»Chnst. Ned how goveraed, .^awM""^ T™' *''«' ^n- t>m short, a comply' ^'^' "'^SX' ^ory, &. ."""."Py. •>« perceive! thTl ^^""' ^"^ed to ob. h>™ed at its having l^ t^^"^ ^ ^mewhat C r '^'"'■^ 'o wrtTto e^ '"k""*- When we i"med from Chihuahua. *''' "''«' which I per. Here was an old Indian who «,= h X' "jnow if we were 8^2.!.'?""^'^ ^'J'*'-- :f 22» JOURNAL 6F A VOYAGE " . m of father Rubi, replied in the affirmative ; but says the Indian, " they do not speak Castillian," true replied the other, but you are an Indian of the nation of Keres, are you not ? Yes. Well the Utahs are Indians also ? Yes. But still you do not understand them, they speaking a dtf. ferent language. True replied the Indian ; well, said the old gentleman, those strangers are likewise Spaniards, but do not speak the same language with us. This reasoning seemed to satisfy the poor savage, and I could not but smile at the ingenuity displayed to make him believe there was no other nation of whites but the Spaniards. Whilst at dinner, father Rubi was informed one of his parishioners was at the point of death, and wished his attendance to receive his confession. We took our departure, but were shortly after over- taken by our friend, who after giving me another heasty shake of the hand, left us. Crossed the river and passed two small hamlets and houses on the road to the village of St. Dies, opposite the mountain of the same name, i where we were received in a house of fether Rubi, thij making part of his domains. Itb March, Sa/wr^Aay.— Marched at nine o*cl(xiBtoolc /jq/T through a country better cultivated and inhabited thaoAown be ' any I had yet seen. Arrived at Albuquerque, a village ooK f^ ^^^ . the east side of the Rio del Norte. We were received byWei^ and father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering manner, andj" Yon w'n led into his hall. From thence, after taking some refreslw what an*] ment, into an inner appartment, where he ordered ^We hand an J adopted children of die female sex, to appear, when thejcene I had came in by turns, Indians of various nations, Spanislfbn on mv French, and finally, two young girls, who from their conAre, which plexion I conceived to be English : on perceiving I notiJar/cs of fr; ed them, he ordered the rest to retire, many of who! Bq^^ , J were beautiful, and directed those to sit down on the sofginnjW to t says the ipUed the ICeres, are tlso? Yes. kinga^- U, ssdd the niards, but I reasoning aid not but elieve there s. med one of I wished his y after ovfr. other heaBty ;r and passed o the village , same name, jr Rati, thij fc^-deme, thus situated he, „u . efcen to the east by the W. ""* *« ^^^ ^ad been to another, „„d, he pu ^^,1^^ t'™' onenadon b"t they could «coltoS W " *" ""^ ^^"^ but concluding they v»^^„ *^ ""^ "^ language % appea^d nothing L7^^T^'"T'f- •°*'^'> which consisted of 4fo„s ilL^ f, ''"^ "> ««»ner, 'rem, all, we were waited oT^ r^ *"/ "^ »<» "> '^"'•if"! girls, who like C,*^/ ; ''°-'' <>' «ho,e converted our wine to necuT ".*' f^f <^ '^^S"*. "«"* shed incense on curl' "" ^^ *f '">"'«»ial "moved some time, thepries, So„-:f^ *' ''°"' "^ »"„Z, .'"* ^""^ *** "ch «»" being h4 w,^h blXSct •'^ i « shon, the '"gment the gloom and majesTrf " ' '^«' "^^ '" ""■caved my imagination Sf * "*"*• When he »a black g^wn afd^^'^^"^ J^^g". „p. he p„ '«^ low of my hand an^*^l^..^^°- *«> -ss, 4l nine o v.i^m-a'iw iioia ot my hand anH «n^ "'^ ^^°^y and ^habited toliown bes,<,e hi^ , ^ my^T^'^ «!""/ "> pui me ,, a village <»■> few mmutes and then ro-, S.- jf"^*^ '^^"y ^r re receivedblte, and as I conceiZT^t^ 'T'I ™ "y shoul. ;n«u«er,»*rou willnotbea Chtit^ r. "'u*™ '"''^ '<"»e. manner,»*rou willnotbea Cht^t^ oh'- k*™ '"''^ '° ™e. «,merefres*»hatapi.y!» He Ae., thre; off hi/^'" ''">' °^'- ,e ordered life hand and led me out of tlT ""^ «°°k me by . when thAene I had gone through had m'^To^?™''"^' ""« "-e ■ns, SpanAn on my mind to be eradicat^^^nn '"""^ =" '"'l'''^. ™ their conlre. whirh .^. :- ._ r™"cated, until we took on, a -_ „„„..-._- "■" sone tnrough had made ,n„ , • *' "" ™ nons, SpamAn on my mind to be eradicatT^n "" =" ^P'**" rom their coAre, which was in an hour afiT; K "" '°°'' °'"-'^<^P"-^ ceiving I notArfcs of friendship from the father ^™^ '"''''''"' ^''e*' jjanyofwno Both above and below Albn " ,wn on the so ginning to open the canals to IT'''"',."'* ""''="'* ''ere ' 'et m the water of the 'm' t ''If' .■ 1 1 :' it/' '• JOURNAL OF A VOYAQli vith rich abundance 'h"' ™"^ ^^^^ brought to iq plenty for *« «»r« ^f^rf Jons given Vy Savary rf the recollection the bright ^^^^^^ cultivation of tto opening of the canals of ^- ^d » fidds was now ^"'"^'"S^IS^ ^e cro», • siveUfe'-if-yJ^tSnShevilUge of Albu- ed the R.0 del Norte, ^^ ^ ^Bt not more tta» queniue where it was 400 yards w« ^^^ ^hreeto deep»d ^'-^^I'^^^'-Jf;, _,ovince. ^ gave «„■«, was the only chart we »w»A^P ^^, j,„„, ^ thenearconnecaonofthe^^eso „^,Uo* .he Rio Coloredo of ^^'^^'^ dependency of fethe, On our arrivingat the ^^^^ ^J^ of theconm*. An^rosio, we ^^r'f^Trc^ sitting by the fo dant; when 1 enter^. ^ wchJTfine complexion a.ri ^gaboomwithbloommgAed^^fin^ J^ I,^ a gemus spea^g eye, ne ^ ^^ ^ R^binsonl -^r r^N^e S^"-^"' '^ head waters of tiie R-odd NoJ;? ^^^^^ ^, u\ w,combed lodes and beard Jrfog ThectoBg.1 «ithfire,unsubduedenterpn^fo«^j^ ^^ ^^ ,as indeed ^^f ';.7; .\:rrdo not know you •," I rJ « Robmson ! ' ^^ > ° .j,;,^ « I would f^ pUed -, « but I know you, he «^ ^ ^1 L unknown to you here^tn^s "J t^^ ^^ presMon ; to avoid all the pams tn y^ ^ Ly friend I grieve » - y- ^^ ^f wear my sword yj you are a prisoner. rep ^^^^^ ^j U and all my men have ^^'^ ^ guards in d dare to iU treat us we will ^"'^'^ Jf J ,„ ^ night. ^ °f '"-"^ ""'"^ ten of crown ethem ttom^ y q{ the L of tli« reared ti> ^e crossr of Albu. norethan , that gave ^otteatid loiacauoi*. cy of fcitl^« jiecomtnaa- by the fiK LplexioaanA eat. U«« ramp, P^^ ** iciated. gro' ►vrth, The change THROUGUa THE INTERIOR f RQVINCES, tec. 99S i ' ■ • . . . . i . y of my approach, but after some iJ^e, [^ cp^fide^e being soip^what restored ; I si^nifie4 ^ wish l^to go. to. Sapta Fe, when they pointed due south, down U« the river, I Ifft you on. As ,1 could .not believe them . ^giflie4M?lr«twited the a^quiry and received the same re|)ly ^ ^ .» 1 rC'l" then conclufled that we had been deceived, and i;hat you * 7 ^ould n*ve discovered my mistake. I therefore offered them \ I % 1 way to F f JOURNAL O? A VOYAGE « some present, » ,co^« X^ Adr *omen *«e. » ducted me to *« ^^ /;^e on o« march. Tte .. ^ to about fi»= «rX W«' ^ ^ '^ '"^ "^ « nieht we encamped m «e *'" !.^ ^ The next day /olinstomy f^ t'C^T- the .Ulage of « at three o'd'>''''J^-,"i„me^»tely taken »»*« « Aqua CaUente. «''«%'^^ „pre»es dbpatched .0 « house of tK^^^""?"^^^ o sleep on amatrasson « SantaFe. T*'^*"'^'' J '^e departed early, leavmgn,, .. Ae aoor. The "^'f^^ J^^ts, hepromis.ngio « arms *nd baggage « the ^ ^ on our amvd .< have them ^'^''"^ J^" "l'^^ me with peat austetw .< at SantaX'e,thegovernor««nr^ J'^ ^b^ .. ty at first, and ^''^fTT^ papers. After all „ I,s and took V^'^JJZl. ^ ^^ "" « te w»e''Pl^'l'''^lt^nder an arrest and an^ " °«=-^ ''"!; A« tla^^^d me, when I walked c. « commissioned officer toa^^^^^^ ,^ ^ I^ « into thedty.wh.chlhadire P „^,«,ble,^ « supplied with f^^^^f^rtoBabtisteLalandetocoJ „ Jpromisedhewovdd-n^o ^^^^ wm, ^ ^ udownandan^ertothe^^^ lf„f. ThesecondJ, « circumstancelhadappnzed^ y ^^^^^^^^,h to .< the governor sent ^0^%^ of Lalande, to dischajj „ „ade enquiry as t° "™^^essed no property, ta « the debt, and found tto hep ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^ •* that at some future pen«i, remonstrance, as: ..forme, ^'"f J "iestT: protection of a refa, .. infringement f o"-- "f^f ^ ^^, his creditors, wl. ..citizen of the Um^d^Smeag^^^.^^ ^^ ^ THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, fcc. 227 cQa- <* case, on .which Iprescribed a r^men and mode of *< treatment which happened to differ from the one adopt- " ed Dy a monk and practising physician of the place, " brought on me his enmity and ill offices. The ensuing " day I was ordered by the governor to hold mystif in rea- ^< diness to proceed to the internal parts of the country, to " which I agreed ; determining not to leave the country in " a clandestine nnanner, unless they attempted to treat me *• with indignity or hardship ; and conceiving it in my " power to join you on your retreat, or find Red river ** and descend it ; should you not be brought in, but in <* that case to sliare your destiny : added to this I feel a " desire to see more of the country for which purpose I was '^ willing to run the risk of future consequences. We " marched the ensuing day, I having been equipped by my << friend, ^h some small articles of which I stood in " need of, such as I would receive out of the numerous " offers of his country. The fourth day I arrived at the "village of St. Fernandez, where I was received, and taken I " charge of by Lt. Don Faciendo Malgares who command- N ed the expedition to the Pawnees, and whom you will ['' find a rentleman, a soldier rnd one of the most gallant I" men you ever knew ; with him I could no longer keep the disguise and when he informed me, (two days since) I" that you were on the way in, I confessed to him my be- I" longing to your party, and we have ever since been anti- 'cipating the pleasure we three will enjoy, in our journey to Chihuahua ; for he is to command the escort, his dragoons being now encamped in the field, waiting your arrival. Since I have been with him I have practiced phy- ' sic in the country in order to have an opportunity of ex- Jaminiag the manners, customs, &c. of the people, and to Iment ^'^*"^*.l endeavor to ascertain the political and religious feelings [hobelngS'^S"l„»j * -• -*i J-^ -*■ ••«<•— ^*'-~ ,..u:-,i le second di| ie,thatheb advice as to' land to gain evei7 other species of information which 1 , • il. MaM lii ,4 lotJittobFAibtAta « 8bw here, on a ««t to tto mm ^^ ^^ ^jj .. corporal or dfc>g.i«»»»P**^^«toott(illAecoto. « asiwate guide, I^;to«y«^^„^«,Malfe*re^» Thia ended Rob«- ;«^Vd«,«etf. We agred Whathad occurred '"^^^AtojbiiiedintoWop; upon our future lmeofcondurt»aju ^ ^^ ^ S -m the house ; »ho h»^^; „ ^^^ tosk ^a«4 5,i. provyed U was »P«f ^^"^^ . ««» tfaia pn*"- arion. 1 complfcdm orf«^^°° j^ed Maigi.*. *!» iive a further <&c»».»on *>«f°^^e troops proceeded « tsusoected would watch us dose. -rae troop, r o;rvaiage of T^u^c, ^^^^^,^r^ hb M««*vS«'«*?}';-7*^„ai« distahce, catM «d halted. at aMe -"^I^^S^** feo ieV No* Tousac. situated <.p«he west »o _.^ ^^„ ^g^, ■fte »«» irfowe^^,"-,'^'* «» «^ ^^^. supper irf ^ey had aUbeen f^rH?-"^^ i collection of tk. i^supper.wine,Ma^*$;;^i ,,ft Ais ^lage;*. young people to ^^'^^ I, over, as the river 4 priest ?ent a cart down ^°^.^ ipproached the vflbp Wly.four fe» "l^^P-^^^^by fieuJenantMalgares H of St. Fernandez, we '^"^ "^^^^j;,,,, . he r^eivedn^ companiedbytwo f ^Si^ian^hep^Btenessofa J ^h the most manly frf*"^' ^?, Jfe as almbst o«l of tbe world. Yet my ^'^^^^^^^b" m^tf for a sU ppWed me and o>^i^ ^'I'^J^^ Iselensations J ^od in order " recova mysdt .^^ ^^^ ^ ■ ^mmyknowledge^^ehadj>w^^^j^^^^„fSpJ 'chihuahua tenmon^te, ^^^ ,hat which a mere . W,re than 10,000 '»°'=^V*°;J^emor had effected, odent and the decepuon of the govern THROUGH tliE t^tSRIOft I*R6v1nCES, Ice. SS9 1^ •• Ml f nfcft ^^\ teUted agreed old cap. [arr^ aft is pic^ oceededoft Is .tf for a sW cnsatiotis^c feu absent ladeffe<^^«^- llfalgare^ iiiidiiigl did iiot fdA iiijrisetf sit ^ase to6k ^^fery liieiiAsitf 6i^ power to bafai^ iaf h»cahre, which made it iak- }x)ss&le bh ihy pah not to diddatdr to appelur chearftil ^ #fe convened as toetl as nt/e amldvoA m tilrb hoteit were as well abl)ttiiihted as somie jkfo^ie tirbuld hc^ iii the s^me ii^6i< ^r of months. Malgai^ (kisse^aiAg hllon^y ^ J ^ bo».«l by «»«? '? <^ puloudy adhered to, » » ^a ut me add gratitude not Uury and "f ^l^"^'/ X honor of a soldier. He to^usehishighconMencemth^ acknowledged further added that "^"^^^Saraw his guarded « as one of your party, I shau ^^ ■„ consider ^n..»»^«J°«£^p, caused me . various marks o^pota^e»» soldier, that v»= were a. «.deavor to e^" '^ "^Zrable conduct tow-dsuj. pableofapprecuangtas^ono^ ^ ^^^^ ^ . 9tb March, W""^/--^"' J^ggtf accompanid ten o'clock. Lt. ^^^^ifionbU rout, captain D' Almansa, '*°»' "^f^ ^here we dined 5 afts S^ta Fe, to the house of^mm^- „ ^ go,,. «hicb we separated. 1 wrow ^Y ^^ D'Alma» nor.inFrenchatldtof^h^^ubun J ^^^^^^ presented me w.* ^'^ "P^er ,« CWhuahua. We rem.!^ •frecommendaaontoanoffic« ^^ '"^■llagdalen. ^*° °" tr : .tsidlfviilage caUedSt. Th«|„4pn,« commenced our route. ^^^^ ^^^p ^ fo^jp one mile <«*'="« f''"™*VriZ presenting abreast w» in an elUpsis, the wro long std^ P J^^ ^^ end formed of the saddles =md to^ ^ ^^ ^^p,^ ,,., .heelU^sba«ngasm^>^^g J, Thusinca^ die centre was the comm ^^^^^ ^^,,^3, an attack on the camp Aere w »^^ ^ „ fight from. Malg=^;^S£ armf; having eight n>^_ thing we have an Idea 01 m .^uioage, wines, confe oaded -th his common camp^^^^^^^ ^^^ tionary, &c. ^ut ^ on^^^^^^ ^^,^i,,,, i^duCs, load aon of the Spanish ^^^^^^^^'f^^^^^^^^ bei ^^^ Mmselfwithsucnaqu-u^^f^^^ cavalcade attending on an ar y 1 amVec fegeoi ^dis: square; doors, i andmoi Hi carhe'12 edas. I Thevflla entered t\ Ims rann tofflsappe I — |<)assed Magdalen, jencairipine] [sheep for tl Aandiz %Clri2( ley are col im. Th( "fer expei 'er parts o luriers exce and exc >vince. - ]Vi !e( 'clock fhe places «9'"a«. appearing Kfce a 1,^ f^ "*'»'* » a remlar ■nievfllage we staid at laT^i.r^?''*"'**^'' medicine »•««» the wiMp>,^ ^ "Sht. being the Jasf ^T " "le wuderriess and the rm^ k ' "* "o* MHs rawing into the river Zt^ ^"** '^•'g''. small ""•appear Hdher th» 4;"t^^ '^"f ' <>« *e w" P»«yciQzens escorted by an off? /'^''^-'^O) men. V»^, collected atSbilCaM ""^ ^^"^OtreopJ 7- l%goo«inI^^''^^P''"'««''ereon ,h^ -'•rexpedirion goe, ouT^ Tf "^""^ ^'"=^ -"^ ^'"ISartsoftheyear no 1- ** '""""m. during the t'-^-excep.ed/ATthTp:^':^'":* *e roadf £ ^and exchange mkJX£l^'° *' *f*e, they ,'™<=«- Met a c^ ^T" *'''' '«''™ to their owi *. loaded with go^s trV^ZT'^ P"^ly ^ - o'clock and n«'..hti«hferL^r- "'^'^^ *eplace where he had beZ7n!' ^^'«"^ '^'^^ «■ oeen in two affaire with th,. • Ibowtd W3\8 tcru- sry.tie of atitudenot »lctier. He Aowledged guard and ir." Those ised me to we were a- iW^fds us. rched about accompanied [ibis rout to dined*, after to the govf . D'Almana ve me a letter X, We return? es, each d repass at; rhus in case ,rmed works superior to ring eight mul wines, confs ice the con saltern indulj lat would be r Robinson k- ! overtook the howe. ^"l^y ^tfaB^ *' act P''»»^/?fi^bJ^.i.,«Be«^d»*?r ed at four o'ctoA "^XfeU ip.lhe ^'^' ^ "^ ^..ely *11':«^..etstS our bread, «de^ lurse S. 20° W. «^hed at 7 o'clock, iSJ Mar, joUedattwdve. Fasaeaw ™GHTHE.Kteh,oRp„ov.mCHS... ,„ ">«, and the Wountun of the dead C,m a* sevenU fr«h jBdi«'tr^ J^?*" *° «?>« e«a side; ...«.;.<1 limHiiies and fnll In ,.,;.>. .■. ■';^'™« out east about three W o*di)4, it i(^# *« lesandfell in«ith the md^?'. "', '"'^ "'»« *'ee ^ we leftat the mouTt^X' ^7" '"«* '^^ P"^'') 2«*^«^,^.ji>.^"^"2^h«fr«r Christopher. . ^f "on began to be discoveS'on .f ■"■. *" ^-^ ' k^e w^ and grass wereS!:'^''' ''* '""'""■'• "ou«>pf,Don Francisco GarlTh '^' ^" P*" "P I'Pl^teriAepossessedinrte^Strofth ? ' '"'''^'"" ^"'diJaX, cow, ; ,we we^St / *T'*^ Wner,,^y Do„ Pedro UodlT't!^ fT '"""P""" -raor, and. 6,her Joseph ^^^u ^"■' ""! '«'«'»«« «Aree o'clock. tofortS^-'"''""^''' '^"^^ "■« ti, \ r^J m 1,1' \ rail h '* t\ II ,00««AL OF A VOYAGE -^ ^ »f th« oovernor. Malg»«»' '"'' " .. ^ho vm then «^, Mid continued """V*" r'ft-,„^dY 15 «» «> ''<'"" from the table to the tedy o* « ^^^^^j^ ^^ of fortune, might arii ^""""Jj to fort **«»«-, he distribute* «» -^"^ ;'« on a .«»ty vrtth the Sp». „ambe.of Al.paches,who^«^ I, tadepead™, iarfa. These Pe'P^^/P^t oniy »vage. I"*; H in their manners, and were tn ^_^ ^^ humbied, «>>«%.» ~"..uu.i Spanish dominions. «*«** f ^^ of their invaders. J»i«:.mmanded JLks were not bowed «<> *«J° , ^p„lar and lbd«*e fort, the "hose people Malgarea *^» »"^J 7, he common p*ceived Rot r«.Jht popularity ««^*^t so humble, a*med Maig pie, fo there was ^^^ . ^ ,hen he w#- ~ «h;se roof he ^^^Wj^^^lfo of dolkrs'^^f ^ I have seen f-"" P^^^^'^len andcWldren brf»»] dve them all to tteoW men, wo ^k»Pgh«y j fetuH^to hU;qur"li^\^:2suedthr<«gh*e«J .veAearing. ^^^ ^^tltJ Oscay.^hen 't * d.W province of N«w Mextco «J « T^^,^ j^i^, ^^ .^^^ L« the sea. °^g-^^r^':^duct, as he approached! „ndefined rt«t he "^V^Tft a lett« for my se'g**"'- f""' "'"'" capital. 1 here »«ft? 'r'^yery bad weather. __ I 28/A Ma : Wb March. TMsdoy- ' ^^ a,^^:hed,|lock and ar U.Malgares »««1 ""Vwdr-Wvine service «as| 29/A Jif„ 26/A M««*\^*''"f^' Jrriaon. at which a! feuedour, formed in the mornmg, m «« ° one part of *«« ' » "e encan troops attended under arms, at . iT 1 J I" . , 'i THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, kc. asi lookup vaathen lusina ken at* ^»t; ^eatlFier they present arms, at another, sink on one knee and rest the muzale of the gun on the ground, in signi^ation of their submission to their divine master. At one o'clock, we bid adieu to our friendly hostess, who was one of the Anest women I had seen in New Spain. At dusk arrived at a small (>ond made by a spring, which arose in the centre, called the Ogo mall a Ukap, and seemed formed by provi- dence to enable the human race, to pass that route as it was the only water within 60 miles, on the route ) hero we oveitook sergeant Belardie with the party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, who had left us at fort Elisiaira, where we had received a new escort. Distance 20 miles. QTtb March, Friday. — Arrived at Carracal, at twelve o'clock. Distance 28 miles ; the road well watered and he situation pleasant. The father-in-l^w of our friend, commanded six or seven years here ; when we arrived at he fort, the commandant, Don Pedro Rues Saramende eived Robinson and myself, with a cold bow and in* irmed Malgares, that we could repair to the public quar- To this Malgares indignantly replied, that he should :company us and turned to go when the commandant him by the arm, made many apologies to him and us, we at length reluctantly entered his quarters ; here the first time, I saw the Gazettes of Mexico, which e rumors of colonel Burr's conspiracies, the movements our troops, &c. &c. but which were stated in so vague undefined a manner, as only to create our anxiety out throwing any light on the subject. 28/^ March, Saturday. — ^Marched at half past three )ps Ki^rchedifock and arrived at the Warm Springs at sun down \ led one little fosse on the route, service ^1 29/i& March, Sunday. — Marched at ten o'clock and at tvbicb afltinued our route, with but a short halt, until sun down j lart of ^^^* W^Q encamped without water. Distance 30 miles. !t .■ !■ 3S6 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE /• tbi apj ten seat 30th Manh, Monday, — ^Marched before seven o'clock, the front arrived at water, at eleven o'clock ; the mules at twelve. The spring on the srde of the mountain to the east of the road, a beautiful situation, I here saw the first ash timber, I observed in the country. This water is 52 miles from the Warm Springs. Yesterday and to- day, saw Cabrie, marched fifteen miles further and en- camped, without wood or water j passed two other small springs to the east of the road. 31 st March, Tuesday, — ^Marched early and arrived at an excellent spring at ten o'clock- The roads from Sencra, Tanos and Buenaventura, &c. joins about 400 yards, before you arrive at the spring. Arrived at the village of — — at night, a large | and elegant house, for the country ; here were various labors carried on by criminals in irons. We here met with a Catalonian, who was but a ^hort time from Spain, and whose dialect was such that he could scarcely be understood by Malgares, and whose man.j ners were much more like those of a citizen of oi western frontiers, than of a subject of a despotic prince. 1^/ Jpril, Wednesday. — In the morning Malgares patched a courier, with a letter to the commandant genei Salcedo to inform him of our approach and also one to father in law. 9d April, Thursday, — ^When we arrived at Chih' ijua, we pursued our course through the town to thehouB school a of the general. I was much astonished to see with wB employe anxiety Malgares anticipated the meeting with his milii chief; after having been on the most arduous and eni prizing expedition, ever undertaken by any of his majesi officers from these provinces and having executed it equal spirit and judgment, yet was he fearful of his meefwas reieva him, with an eye of displeasure ; and appeared to be ijBicfe, and \ (( on who 1 is a na mothet equaijy on the F in the y, '"'m to as me to exf before seven m o'clock ; the f the mountain in, I here saw try. This water esterday and to- Further and en- two other small arly and arrived The roads from joins about 400 :e at night, a large jre were various ho was bat a ^hortl ras such that hel s, and whose tnanJ a citizen of or despotic prince. lingMalgaresdi nmandant genei ind also one to I more agitated than ourselves al,h„ .. I«^ » have also had ot ^ ^«'' "' '^7 be sup. "W» man depe«ied Zht^T^' " °" *e will«rf countnr could interfere in our t^^^'n '"^ """'' °" the general's, we were halted in thi h,l. ^ °" ""^ « fl word was sent tb the JZT,^ *" <>f *e guarf, „„. g-s was fet intreduT^ l!" ^"^ "^en^Mal. ■"g wWch a Frenchma^t^"? '^'^ '^ '^' «•-- mtoconversation with us, butl^s^ fr "^T?^ *» "'o' « we conceived he was onll °"™^«««' silence g^'-es at last came ouT^tkS""'"*°"'^ W- Mal- *«genenl sittingat Wslesf tw' '° '^''■"- ^«'>»<' apparently about fifty fi^'Z^H'^ " »"d<«e sized man, 'enance, but he receiVed ml^ • T' "^^ " ^"^ ™<>n -' = he then ot^^Z^ZTr "" '^°"«« «° » " a great deal of trouble." *■"*" "" '^l y°»«elf Captain Pike ** O v^ « on that of the Spanish^!!^ ""^^f^ "^"gK and w-o wa^ then o:.e.S' rJ^mt'Tr''"^*"-'" .«• i which being do„,, , li^LanTj^;:" ""^ '"""e'" « a native of New Orleans w^f^ talker came in, who «her a French worn T^d f 'k ™ ^g^man, his dually well, also 2sS^'°^» ^ «hose languages dragoon, in the Spanish s^~" ^ "^ " "'"'»»« of "chool at ChihuahT S''!;^'''»»'«'of themih-tary , hV f town to the ho| school at Chihuahua TiS "*^^^'* ""^ ^^^ "»'^*fary to see with >»■ employed by Mr. An'drew Ell^^ ^^"""^ gentleman was with hismili|onthe Florida line between thl T ' 'V j^'P^X surveyoi iuous and ent « the year. '97 and '98. GeneTl q , f ' ""^ ^P^"^ ay of his majest tarn tn a^c'e* -•_... '^cuerai oalcedo thpn a^u^j executed it ^ •ful of his mee . .-„ .^cvanr ro tne exnpHih-«« u '"^ ^"Hceived .red .0 be . .e, and those whichS^ ^S tt^^; Z ^ / 2i$ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE m^:# other ; the ivhoie cither passing through fh^ hands of the geilferal at Walker, except a few letters from my ladyj which xm my taking up and saying they \^ere letters from i lady, the general gavd a proof, that if the ancient Spa^ n&h bravery had degenerated in the nation generally, thdr gallantry still existed, by bowing, aiid I put them in my pocket* He thdn informed me that he would examine the papels, but that in the mean while he wished me to tiOkt om Mid present to him a ihort sketch of my voy. age,* which might probably be satisfactory. This I would hkif^ pOsitiVdy reused, h^ I had an idea that it was his d^^i^minadoh to keep the papers, which I could not at tha^ tim^ c6jfteeiv«, from the urbamty and sadsfaction which he fcj^ieif ed to exhibit on the event of our interview. He then told me thit I woukt fakeup my quarters with Waiker,i^ or. der (as he said) to be better accommodated by having a per- ^Oii wkh Me who spoke the English iiuiguage ; but the ob- ject as I sntpected^ wto for him to be a spy on our actions, and on those who visited US. Robinson all this time had been standing in the guard room, boiling with indignation ttt being so loAg detained thin, subject to the observations of the soldiery and gaping curiosity of the vulgar. He "^ts tiow introdu<3ed by some mistake of one of the aid-de- tamps. He appeared and made a slight bow to the gene* ti\i who demanded of Malgares who he was P He replied i doctor who dccompanisd the expedition. *' Let him re ** tire," said the governor, and he went out. The gene* ral theft invite 1 me to return and dine with him, and weloiet the v went to the quarters of Walker, where we reteived seVerallduced us, Hiffefent invitations to take quarters at houses where w«i* iittle #« might be better Accommodated, but understanding that thclt;^ jinT ^ general had designated our quarters we were silent. m'^hdies We returned to dine at the palace, where we meft the cap Malgares, wlio, with ourselves, was the only guest, ^vfefgeurit, • See Appendix to Part III. [No. 13.] page 73. C b( ga tar ?nc evej tad at the table the twwurer r •«• '■ our voyage for the gsneralZ?™^ ?*"* ^ «*»'«* ^f S^-^ «d Bon Manuel ZuW '"^„^*«'^-»rb* t^JW, t-y's office, to whom I m^'^'^of *'"»cre- evening. ,"**^™^ Visited his hoi«ei,,he ."ere two officers, who J„ finf^i*" *'*'*»' »»«* informed had been the ^ZtZ^'"!^ *»" I«« "h« were «o,JdeH„^ SjZ! '"™''*» P«vhu», aphysicianitthis riZtv-sCnffTl.* ■** "^« *« "o •"- i but after rep^t^d^^ ^''''r^ «»!« «» «M» !»»'•. Thfa»hewa(he^fo^f,'»j«"'» *em «p to «»»<» in the provides. Sr^^ f*" "fa* medical * » very po,i,e ^ge froS^^ "^T"' ^*''^> „u.c 6— ■ »»°ey. &c. for wiuch I remit? '^'^ "^"^^ance, ? He repUeal to gen^,. . Accpi^p^^^^f 7 "'P^'^ Aanka t„ ' Let himre-i where we found the a«•«.^.^^*^ *° «lie piiMc nojfc ... The gen.! »d pdier officer of ^S„r^J*«^' ^-^ga , him, and ml«et the wife ^. fe,**^""- We.h.^ Uke^i, eceived8eVeri|J"cedu». 8hewaaJil»»|i.rV*'''*" '«'""» ^mt«*. .ses where .f We,„ W;^„. brZt^'**'t:*^'^Sp«, andmg that thl>)» to a superior d«BW '^^T*' *• »»n6nal beauty of re silent. I«f fadies, anK)ng«Xm ,we«1^„^TJ' '^ *°««^'''''n where *e m » 'h^^apital-^no^.j^f . 3°***"^^ ay guest. H ^'^--eVal,oi,..heo„wrL£^Ji^'JS^ tands Off tW A my ladyt letters from indent Spa« lerally^thielr [hem in my Id examine ished me to of my voy- rhis 1 would at it was his Id not at tha^ ion which he jw. He then iAraikeif,nior. having a per- * but the ob- n our actions, this tiirie had :h indignation e observations vulgar. He I of the aid-de. w to the genc' ,s (C .-ft:; )f:; 240 ^ lOkJoURNAL OF A V6VAwine was set on the table, and we Iwere entertained witljD, scu^s in/ the French, Italian, Spanish :aiid English latigua^68; Accustomed ^ ixsi was Jto sitting sbme time after dinner^I fbrgottbeir siesta^ (^or fepbse after din- ner) until Walkte suggested the- t^gtOr me, when we retired; ..:^. ;>:ioU, ■ ■]'. y:c:i\ ry^ii-:;;^'M-^ .jiUi'r yr :v /, ri;'. lib Aprily Tuesdiny.T^'DineA' at Dost Antonio Caberai- ri's, in company with Viilamil^ Zuloaga,/. Wiiiker, &c..m. Sent in a sketch of my vovagd to the general. Spent the evening at coltinel Mayoer's with Malgares. 8th J frU, Wednesday, — 'Yiiitedithe treasurer, who showed me thbdoubl&^bajTelg^ni given by governor Ciai borne, 7/»r« afforded nJ u ^''' ^d jeave ».°-! . *' I ]Q»A J ,'*"'''« my *«-7wj- ®^ ""^ what h- ^V-^^Roirij^i'^^^^^^Ag at colon,, j^ r ^^^"^ • 'j^-e we dranlc r ^ '^^ ^ouseof one ^secretaiy Vi,ja^.|^ '^^k 1-ondon Porter. vj!l h'°-^''-S';;^f^ ^''"'' *e doctor) at K«*e public .:,L"* °"-'»'«"-s.TV;" I 2 1'^t ^"'"^•'-Nothing «t«„ .• feT at Don M^'^^°?'^^^n^ng, •: ^Hh'^'"'**^''«"»gatcoW \ 243 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE im' :M- ">■.. tm imimii fi was Mr. Burling, a citizen of Mississippi Territory, whose mission is now well known to the government. We likewise »] ceived an account of a commercial treaty having been tered into between Great Britain and the United Stati which by the Dons was only considered as thepreli step to an alliance biFensive and defensive.be£ween the nations. l^ > ^ 21 St, April, Tuesday. — ^Presented the comman ^neral with a letter for general Wilkinson, which he mised to have forwarded to the governor of Texas. 22d April, Wednesday.-— S]^t the day in reading studying Spanish ; the eveiiing at captain Villamirs. mpreach' • 23d April, Thursdayi— Dined at Don Pedro vl^ ^^ '"^ lois ; the evening with colonel Maynor ; bid him adieuly/j^ j ^ I P hi Vt * See Appendix to Part III. [No. 14-] page ^i. See i ■} I'M!-:-; . li ' !■' W ' '.t .1 fk'f^- '■■> ' '■ fte was to march f ho « . ' '''^^ES, Stc. 1843 P^« were to be detained, rivwT^'lt"^» «« my pa- *««, contents. &c. &c.* ^ ^ ''^^*^ °fAeirkZ. ^4fth April Fr'^ ^^ -"'^reUtionf'A'SrnH' "'"'"^ « Z„,o. 50- ■'.. ,ent called upon m, " !■ ^°^'"' "^cerof the : -;«nent had been'^fo^';,"^.'. '<"« ™e *a, the ^ ; 'oceft^. Robinson and Tytltr^r^''''"'' '» »« ■Mxrms and principles 7^h v'"'"''' &'* political :-« genenUly .^^^^^ "^'"'' ' ""'t be con. ■ A r .^ *' "•^'^on o^a i *°'"1 '» » very few „ '^ no uncommon thin, ffe j^*? ?^'' "^'^^ ^ that i I ««ated) to hear the comS. '^ " ''^''' *^ as- ™ and monarchical go"Sl2'':?"°P'^'''^"«PubK. •' the allegiance due C«f2^* discussed; and even : --iied in question /LSr'f ^""^ "> ^^e^^n I »on had indulged ;he,:i°^\t"^«e« of co„s,-de„" y«'*»««..r.„„,,rf„^^^^»''ose conversations, «// i"a» It respected myself J!^ '"*'"""* 6^/ but that t«ae,celle„cy,K2;-^on.it.a's'theS r would not hold forth anv ™*'°™™o'M of Spain w^ ■f-on thesubject^f .^^^orf "' '^"^''-^ ^- « wasjrue I had held various a^r^'' ' '^'W' ^t Ae subjects complained oTbur^f'''" ?°»v«"a'ions on office who might be sup^'^^ !"* '"^" ««'" » *e kmg, and partial^ the^v J """'>' "f^h"! to Kt I had never gone amoCT"" °' '"^^ """"'H'" ^eaclung up republicanismT^ frl '^'' '«'' '"'■'^"Z , N to the cathohc religion I L . 8°"^™"™'. That ktIcoaceivedtob?T^'£S"'"'^"^^~ I I "'^"'''offnias; butthati f ti i': * JOURNAL QV A yOYAGIi *^ h^d spdcen of it in all instances as a resectable branch « of the Christian religion, which as well as all others, « was toK'rated in the United States; but that, had I came ** to that kingdom in a diplomatic character, delicacy to- ** wards the government would have sealed my lips. Had " I been a prisoner of war, personal safety might have '* had the same effect ; but being there in the capacity *' which I was ; not voluntarily, .but by coercion of the ** Spanish government, but, who, at the same time had of. " ficially notified me that they did not consider me under *' any restraint «;^>pti1 Royalty and the confidence of the government. Our o isultation ended in a determination only to be silent watch events. We suspected to be the informant, but 'wBiifceuJ \ ther just in our suspicion or not, I will lot pr^etend to A w}^rh termine, for Robinson and myself frequently used to hJ 27 ^ • conversations in his presence purposely to have them coimtsfQ ^ municated ; but he at last discovered our intentions, >e menti told us, that if we calculated on making him a carrier news, we were mistaken j that he despised it. re \h A- o'c/ock received a Z^t ^. °Wg«« = ^ I "W, and predated him t^^ " *'"^«>»S vhich candidly info^^ „^ ™° «"" » Jetter.. He Aen ate l^r^ry of Ae ki„g ofsXtuT* . T ^'^^T. '""ded ,0 pMctually, andTo^!,A^" '^'^ «'«'»''' <» at- "«' but '«que«edAatVS"'°"'"™«&'e'y after. S™t to deliver up a* his It! '^.«''« •'"'«' tomy ser. ~ of the ho^:: oTwlTlTer; "^^ *''~»^ » '•'■^ -l^ly. « that wh respect tol ^ '''"«*• ^ """ted m order, to my sergeS^ o d trrT.™*'"' ' -"" g*- "possessed, more than was nl '^''^''™»nded)all Aer " but that a, to the h^rsT , f "^'^ '° «" ^''ir "oW^ /'chatge which mustSiXf""* **'°» «^a .-nents. therefore should Svtt"!? *' •^°K°^^- '"gthem except as to ^'7*^"°"^ '«?«'- ' t ng as they were able to S^.""" "" =« ^^ and as n""" to dine with him onlhr™ *™ 8»^* »« an f-oung went to MalgaVes Zuf, . ^^*^'^ In4e I'pyserge^t and rioT'toSl^" others. Wr«e W'"-. and to the other 16, dol£T/"''°"' ' »«« '^ W-es for the party. We hadh /^' *° P"<=base »»us that the doctor was toT.^ ^"^ """^ "''"e sua. - "fcwise obtained peT^s^o^^f """^''' <>« 'tis evemn^ '^forourdeparture^';*:^ """^gartang. ^ mention some few ^S'irr!!!!:/^ -^.r -1 ?'? i' '* i .:lfci'! ,-..!!, JOURNAL OF A VOY .Gt ^e came to rhe c." ^^r^^esented to me an accoaiu Uen there about --^^^^f^^^, .„d begged if tk fo, Robinson's ff^^^^ZU say I had pai^ • general enqmred of me, «"» ^ ,Wng origmatedi Unaturallyledmeto^dhow^ K^^^^^^^^ he with considerable e^^-^" ,i,,. he though, rieen theliberly to f ™*^°ll„ce,inordertobe«. hesho„ldbeaHo«eianex«aa T-hegenerall» bledtotreatuswithsomelitilem ^ j^^^ ^^jp„j into a m.»t vWentpaBS|on =mdd^m»d^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ | Hmforourboard?to wh^ «J °*^5„J^,, ,o demand |j«edh« expect pay of ud. He "■"d'^"-" , j ^ i„ his hands;|»«h him, pay,toreceiv'it,sign a "'^^P^"'* 'f|i„g «as done,b«|u«bordii Sadded, he would consult me J^^'sf^^ay after thJ^«^«/. which heneverdid,yetltookcareeven ^^^ ^„,,|, confess. ,0 deposit in the hands of W;^»--„ Malpfipolidc ^dered the P'^'!"''" ^"^Sh officers having hea*™ca..on re. and several other of ^^^^^^^rtaed-sayl-g- *#"! ». * ofthething, waited on "^"^f J^t^toed ushadnot^ch m , ■ ^hat pleasure they would Mve en« ^„ ^„ ,^„^ p„„< designarion of the 6™f 'P"'^"* ro, (the only om •,ect--had living with h.m » "" "^ J ^^e property (_ ^ - ::: on .h^ side of St M^omo) who - th J ^^ ^^^ ^™e person who resided ^.arN=^.^^^„, ^^ .„ ^ken with iNolan. «=>^S^Xnd obtained permi^o dock. the WBssissippi country, ^ohcted ana ' Mi mmmmm ider of ntig not 1, know- li receive we were, 3e offered jgx we had li account gged if Ac [lad p»^ i^- origina*^'» that be bad tthethoM^b ^ertobeena- e general fle« hadnoi?ai4 no,bedidnotl elyto dema^i m his hands', wasdone,bul| iday after th3t,l ;.hich vmscofr ^yse: ilf. Mai hea havmg ^— saying* us had not I viit witt on thesttl one (the only the property who had Inted xvitb him lined permissi' THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES. 8cc. 547 for old Csesar to live with him. I found him very com- municative and extremely useful. The day. I arrived, when we were left alone he came in, and looked around at the walls of the room and exclaimed, " What ! all gone." I demanded an explanation, and he informed me that the maps of the different provinces as taken by and other surveyors, had been hung up against the walls, but the day we arrived they had all been taken do" "• the river Con' Concjo. ««een ^^.^'^ ^^en .e„ f.„ I^^^ •eW .hefc^erriver '!ru ■ " '''g^^'ro^ whe« "^ ten miles ud thf^ pi , * ^ ^^^ condu^n^^ i •'- in ,he barrelsT e r """=''-'- and .„ lM«er hours arrived at C '"■'>'' ""d « four,„^ I ^. ^^^"^ fend Ma/, '* i 250 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE tl'.M f '' I t 1 'A • u gares for captain Barelo> who was a Mexican by birth, bom near the capital, and entered as a cadet at GuaxequiUo near twenty years past, and by his extraordinary merits (being a Creolian) bad been promoted to a captain, which was even by himself considered as his ultimate promotion. He was a gentleman in his manners-^generous and frank; and I believe a good soldier. 3d May, Sunday. — At Guajrequillo the captain gave up his command to Malgares. At night the officers gave a ball, at which appeared at least sixty women, ten or a dozen of whom were very handsome. 4//6 May, Monday, — ^Don Hymen Guloo arrived from Chihuahua, accompanied by a citizen and the friar, who had been arrested by order of the commandant general, and was on his way to Mexico for trial. Sth May, Tuesday, — ^The party marched with s^U the spare horses and bagga(^e. Sth May, Wednesday.'— Mzxched at five o'clock; ascended tlie river four miles, when we left it to our right and took off south 60°, east eight miles. Our friend Malgares accompanied us a few miles, to whom ve bad an eternal adieu, if war does not bring us togetherl ^j^re/i in the field of battle opposed as the most deadly enemies, when our hearts acknowledge the greatest friendship, Halted at ten o'clock, and marched again at four. N( water on the road ; detached a Spanish soldier in seari of some, who did not join us until 12 o'clock at nigl Encamped in the open prairie j no wood or water exo what the soldier brought us in gourds. The mules cai up at eleven o'clock at night. Distance 30 miles. 7//5» May, Thursday. — Marched very early, wind fi from the south. The punctuality of captain Barelo as hours was remarkable. Arrived at imU" past nine o'cloftountain at a spring, the first water from GuaxequiUo. The muipf. jy- n th mt bai imj iosii ami o'clo ton] this J oated Vised h mainec /wsand receive "lidem proximi ' \' led with ill the •nountains on each «de all dav iJ^'""'^* «"«<» *-- *-g'. a gap in ,he mou«^''^,!'/'^""'« «'"« west, more «,u,h ,o a river .boTZ^Z"'1, ^^ ^°^- »d .'»»'=» ; no«r dry e,cepr ^n ^k\ '^'^-high «eep «»f«^iWe. Halted afs^L 'ILT"? '"^'^"«d '""«' mules. Marched atTve otTt '"" ^' "» "•« am: encamped without „ata-n,„°'''"='"»^ ,0 „,a^ ''clock and arrived a, PehW * k '^'"^" *>" =«d five ton for a few soldiere bm • ^^"^ ™* " o-'y a stl "- P'ace are two w' "4:;''"'™""<'«' h mini At ""^ -•* -Iphur, TdXr:^'' -^'""Slyfmpreg. "««i by the party who are s.atiolST""''' '""'««' '° ^ «a.ned all day. Cap,ai„C '"hi '"• "^^ "« re. ^ »nd n.y men and chargS^t '*° .'^'^' '""^'l ^r 2"'«' ordm ««. theZht «k. leaves all the villages a C' ^"^ "'"'' "Wch we 7 irougn the mountains to M^ . • ^°^s Joiniedi- mnduudiiu«ous for small n^w; ^^°"felov>=»2 h,.^ ; j of the ^|^USy;„lP-^Sfromc£:S„ft~ ,dierstot„J.or«,byt/eorZt;in" t'^^ what it ti^^J rderedback-»r,»d your guards mlrj^h/V"^ ^^-T scarce of ^ ' ofi h« horjr they fi,, ^^^ J^^ ^° escape then, by s^iCj e to me, whA caravans. ^ " ^S""" Ae Spanish settlemt^/ vouldbringJ Wethisdaypass«l by a dra^ De San Mi^^. who^o^f ^f' ^ "^'"^ "-- akinguseotl^Riodel Norte to som^T °" *^ mountains of but could nJoid Mexico. "^ **"«<=« into the fcin^ ling my meni 13M ^,,, ^^^ ^ andhehadfssesRanchedpQ. a -^ — ^^^^ on to tfiA «• >ctmg with , . My hoyt^; i,ZZ7 °' *^ ="^ ^VT .ofn.-.rho„e,havi.,^J«^5^-B^ 354 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE p III' if 'm m M from their mouths, in order that they might drink free, which they could not do with the Spanish bridles. The hofse I rode had been accustomed to being held by his master in a peculiar msuiner when bridled, and would not let me put it on a^oia for a long time, when in the mean time my boy's horse ran away, and it was out of our power to catch him again, but when we arrived at the Ranc!;e, w^ soon had out a number of boys, who brought in the horse and all his diffei^nt equipments which were scat. tered on *he I'ouOe. This certainly was a strong proof of their iionesty, and did not go unrewarded. In the even- r)o; we gave them a ball on the green according to custom, We here learnt that one peck of com, with three pounds of meat per week, was the allowance given a grown person. l^th May, Thursday, — ^Did not march until half past four o'clock, and about nine o'clock an officer arrived from St. Rosa vrath 24 men suid two Appaches in irons, Hand haitec They were noble looking fellows, of large stature, and apvhichw the marquis De San Miquel— good gardens and fruit — " Rautnavtt^so a fine stream. The mules did not arrive until late at f the roSglut, when it had commenced raining. iStniSl 19/i& May, Tuesday.-^Did not march uutil three ght A vfbicb t»iock, the captain not being very well. He here deter issable fit this "" "' ' ^ l_.._j.__ .i. \ jniifuWv biigeneral Salcedo. Came on ten miles. Met a deserter ' "m captain Johnston's company. He returned and came 1^ i'i' ll 3^8 JOURNAL or A VOYAGE i ■ S^»,\1S", TW! /ti. tM! '^ I ft? on 1 footc house mount; "iountz n to the camp, and begged of me to take him back to his company, but I would not give any encouragement to the scoundrel, only a little change, as he was without a farthing. 20th May, Wednesday. — Came to the Hacienda of Pattos by nine o'clock. This is a handsome place, where the marquis De San Miquel frequently spends his sum* mers, the distance enabling him to come from Mexico in his coach in ten days. Here we met the Mexican post' iMer going to Chewawa. Don Hymie who had left us at Paras, joined in a coach and six, in which we came out to ■J, little settlement called the Florida, one leagite from Pat- tos, due north. Distance 18 miles. The Hacienda of Pattos was a square enclosure of about three hundred feet, the building being one stcry high, but some of the apartments very elegantly furnished. In the centre of the square was a Jet d'eau, which cast forth water from eight spouts, extended from a coloseao female form. From this fountain all the neighbouring b habitants got their supply of water. The marquis hadj likewise a very handsome church, which, with its o: ments cost him at least 20,000 dollars ; to officiate ii which, he maintained a little stiff superstitious priest, the rear of the palace (for so it might be called) was fish-pond, in which were immense numbers of fish. The population of Florida is about 2,000 soulP'ed about This was our nearest point to the city of Mexico. ^n De Pq 21st May, 1 bursday,-^-Mzrched down the watfc and insni course over a rough and stony re i about ten miles, whil-ieiiienan we left it on the right, and came Dn eight miles furtherj'.i of an JJ a horse range of the marquis's, where he had four of Parried a r soldiers as a guarda caballo. Halted at half past rihere in ^i o'clock. At this place we had a spring of bad water.liiis quurf^ ic\i to his »nt to the without a acienda of ace, where s his sum. Mexico in ixican post- id left us at came out to 5,e from Pat- THROUGH THE mTKBT,>» 'NTERIOR PHovmcp-».. Some Spani;^ Sw^T' "' '^'^^ "« "o "•ounta™ on our Jeft and l^^r^? ''"*• We left p,,,,^ ~" over ^hich we w^ 'to ' ? t'* "^^ » "o« -"l^. and as Jmlre^^ t. '""^^ ' They are all ca- Km the mountain/ ''''* ^'^ '"^ came to a «sed ,'h, ?' *'"**?>'— Marched at an „ i . psed through the mountain r-r." ? ^''' ''°"'- «<» ^'y"-."r"i^ mountain of the tC'^/ '^' "^ ™»^0 <^=«ed ,, ^htch «|med the main road whi^^*! '^ ,^' *« 13th mi/e - a colos«|.2d instant, and inlne'lt",^^'^'^ '° "'""S'lton ghbounng ..albican road bom the easte^^ ' '"""^ '" *e main K *e captain seminal "'"" ^""^ Montelovez Lach. '"""'« •'^Press to give noti,, of ow 25'* May, Mmday.~.In fh. f ' ■"s. commandam of the clZ, 7^" ''' °-"«i nbers o. .-J » a coach and six t7 T '^ '' "'^ ^""'^iovez ar- t 2,000 soifed about five o'clock P M J" '° '°*"' *'"«* we texico. r^-Fera™,eheco;„m;nd;„t f!^'''™'°S"^''«' ,«„ the «*• "xl inspector of the fiT„'.°^ *•='"<>?' of Co.. ,wn the ''*•»"'' mspector of the five nrov,n'''°^<^<'S-- ten miles, w|Lieuienant Adams who !^ ?«"«<: es. ^les further '..of an Irish engineer rTh'^ ""'' P'"^^' was had four of unl^ a „ch girf of the p ITr f °^ *- He ,: had four of half past n ,f bad water. ■-•'^-•chgi,r;nheX;T;v'*^^"- «^ e^e m elegance and styl/C^h' ^°«'=> »>'» quarters and were 'it t m"'"'^'- ^^^ P"^ ^i^'^''°*P«^'''y entertained. ml ^''i' .^,1 * S58 ^ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ^ J 'Jtode preparadoM for march- ««* *^? '^^;'^:tw befo« any of our people tog Ae "»« '*»^- ' 'Xw round the .o«n ; and from ^^ up and "^f^X ^ my p.,ncil and a pock« tf,e WU took a ^^f^'^ll^ « ,h me-r-e&med and compass «hich X ^^f .^"^ving sent three or four of found them at breakfast Aeyh | ^, „y men to search for me. ^^^^^i saluMg pice were remarkabW P°J^j,„J to their commands, „henl passed. !»» ' Ueutenant Adams. Marched at seven o dock, 27f* M«> T^*''f«««^-r^^''t^D<,„ Hymen, and . after taking an affecuonate J^^^ .^^„ „{ pon Melch«. half past twelve arnved at '"^ " j^^^. ^tuaJed on the same str«.m^f Monte ^^^^^ J Don Melcher was » "^j^^,^ ^ his service a vA Ute, generous '"f /"^™^,^ Lockwood's company.M «ho had deserted from cap^am ^^^^ ^^^^ regiment of infantry, by the na^e ^^ ^^ j 'Z be had acquired a co^de«bl.^^U„,,, States J toested informanon 'f'='"' ^^^ knowledge of < ie„hemetwi*ustas*^tj' ^^^y,. „ , U^s and insntutions apl^ ^^„,^ „ ^y J ^''^''^f^" XS-Marched early and arnvj 38»/> Moy, ^*""'"'^' i^k This place was ovJ EncinaHaciendo at ten o clock. by Don Barego. Haciendo of Endna, I H When we arnved at the na^^^^^ , youth of 18 situng ;^J^.X1 Mf p^ysiogno™ „hom I i-""^"*"''' V!^Xd into conversation with 1 be an American, ^^ J^ ,j meeting a countr(. He expressed g'^'^'f f^nversation. He sat a. ,„d we had a P^^^^^l^oX^ collation of frm^ THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, kc. S59 rtnarcH- ir people ind from a pocket jrned and or four ot )p8 at tbis after we quit the table, that he was a deserter from our army, on which I questioned him, and he replied, that hJM name was Griffith, he had enlisted in Philadelphia ; arrived at New Orleans and deserted as soon as possible ; thut the Spaniards had treated him much better than his owa countrymen, and that he should never return. I was ex- tremely astonished at his insolence, and mortified that I should have been betrayed into any polite conduct towards the scoundrel. I told him **' that it was astonishing he " should have had tl 3; impertinence to address himself to " me, knowing that I was an American officer." He mut- tered something about being in a country where he was protected, &;c. on which I told him, *' If he again opened « his mouth to me, I would instantly chastize him, not- " withstanding his supposed protection." He was silent, and I called up one of my soldiers and told him in his hear- ig, that if he attempted to mix with them to turn him out f company, which they executed by leading him to the loor of their room a short time after, when he entered it. en dinner was nearly ready, I sent a message to the prietor, that " we assumed no right to say whom he should introduce to his table, but, that we should think it a great indignity offered to a Spanish officer to attempt fr~and arriveiB to set him down at the same board with a deserter from \ -e was ovJBthrir army ; and that, if the man who was at the table in the mornii^g, was to make his appearance again, f "Pncina, ^ fc'B^e should decline eating at it." He replied, " that it teeW dre««was accident which produced the event of the morning; hvsioffnoWBthat he was sorry our feelings had been injured, and that tion with iBhe would take care he did not appear agaii* whilst we JX country*ere there." He sat at* Our good friend Don Melcher h^re overtook us, and ■ n of fruitsfced the evenmg with us. jd to learn ^W lid saluting imtnandaitt, ^^en o'clock, rmen, and n )on Melcher, e fortune* V)"' ! service a , compai^y itt. 'F'O'^^' ity of crudei ited States, >wledge of able. He 01 ted to my 1. m 160 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE I ( This day we passed the last mountains, and again entered the great Mississippi valley, it being six months and thirteen days b, ice we first came in sight of them. Distance 20 miles. 29tb May, Friday. — Marched at seven oVIock and came to the river Millada and Rancho. SOtb May, Saturday. — Marched at five o'clock and arrived at the river Sabine at eight — forded it. Marched in the evening at four o'clock, at ten encamped at the Second Ridge without water. Distance 27 miles. 31st May, Sunday, — Marched early and at nine o'clock arrived at a Rancho, a fine running water— course east and west. Marched eight miles further to a point of j woods and encamped. No water. Distance 23 miles. 1st June, Mow Ji»y.— Arrived at the Presidioj Ricj Grande at eight o'clock. This place was the position tol which our friend Barelo was ordered, and which had beecj very highly spoken of to him, but he found himself iii| erablymist .JLvf ., for it was with the greatest difficulty w| obtained ;^ny iling to eat, which mortified him extremelj Wiien cii Chihuahua, general Salcedo had asked me if j had noi lost u man by desertion, to which I replied in i negadve. ^e then informed mc that an American had i rived at the Presidio Rio Grande in the last year : th he had at first confined him, but that he was now relc and practicing physic, and that he wished me to exan him on my arrival: I therefore had him sent for; moment he entered the room I discovered he never 1 received a liberal education, or been accustomed to ished soriety. I told him the reason that I had reque to see hira, and that I had it in my power to serve bin I found him a character worthy of interference. He then related the following story ; " That' his " was Martin Henderson, that he was born in Rock Briii then senJ (( it «/ «f< ** thi "an( jc months of them. 'c\0C k and THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, 8cc. 261 « ouiity, state of Virginia ; that he had been brought up *♦ 9 liirmer, but, that coming early to the state of Ken- ■ tucky and Tennessee, he had acquired a tuste for a «< frontier life, and that in the spring of 1 806, himself and *< four compar ons, had left the Saline in the District of " Saint Gaaevieve, Upper Louisiana, in order to pene- ** trate through the woods to the province cf Texas ; " that his companions had left him on the White T'n'er, ** and that he had continued on : that in swimmi " western branch his horse sunk under him, anu " difficulty he had made the shore with his gun " he waited two or three days until his horse rose, and he '' then got his saddle bags, but that all his notes on the '■' country, courses, &c. were destroyed, lie then pro- " ceeded on foot for a few days, when he was met by 30 " or 40 Osage warriors, who on his telling them he was " going to the Spaniards were about to kill him, but on " his saying he would go to the Americans, they held a " "^'fficuityB" consultation over him, and fmali^ seized on his clothes, w extre A* v Lk^Ii ^B^l liiii Hin i^Hi R'^'j' H K| C( C( c« (C (( cc 2x1 mc oft to ( untl font sent rior. dener J thesis peifor *' tra^e, which they said led to Aiiiericaii estsbUshmeats ; *' and as soon as the Indians teft him he directed his " course as he supposed for Samt Antonio. He then killed ^ deer and made himself some clothes. He proceeded on <* and expended all hisammunition three days before he " struck the Grand Road, nearly at the Rio Grande. He *' further added, that he had discovered two mines, one of silver and the other of gold, the situation of which |ie particularly described ; but, that the general had takoi ** the samples from him. That he would not attempt to pass himself on us for a physician, and hoped as he only used simples and was careful to do no harm we would not betray him. He further added, that since his being in the country, he had made (from information) maps ^* of all the adjacent country, but that they had been taken «« from him." \ I had early coticluded that he was an agent of Burf s, and was revolving in my mind whether I should denounce him as such to the commandant, but felt reluctant from an apprehension that he might be innocent, when one c^ my men came in and informed me that it was Trainer, who had killed major Bashier in the wilderness, between Natchez and Tennessee, when he was his hireling. He shot him (when taking a nap at noon through the headjiliad escoi with his own pistols. The governor of the £tate and dielaad we fc major's friends offered a very considerable re\i^urd for hisnt^gent n apprehension, which obliged him to quit the state ; andftiie inven with an Amazonian woman, who handled arms hunted like a savage, he retreated to the source of White River, but being routedLfrom that retr^t by cs4)i Maney, of the United States army, and a party of Cheri kees, he and his female companion bore west, and si proving to be pregnant, was left by him in the desert, (I was informed) arrived on the settlements of Red rivi female 2d toreguj Aat my no mean great dis Thk monks, ^us tf Icompaniec 'g one 18 many te serv s as coo hat zeal and . I bmentsi scted his ten lulled seeded on before he jtnde. He les, one of vrhich )ie [ had takm : attempt to tasheonbf (I yfie WOttW ice his bdng latton) maps 4 been taken \ entofBunfs, >uld denounce ictant froman en one of ft! Trainer, v>lio ^ess, between hireling. He igh theheaay . etate and the! tevard for bis Ithe state *, an^| ^led arms source of treat by capt xtyof Cher< west, andsl the desert, tiofRedriv THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, &c. S6S but by what means is to me unknt^wn. The articles and money taken from him by the Osage's were the property of the deceased major. I then reported' the circumstance to captain Barelo, who had him immediately confined, until the will of governor Cordero was known, who in- formed me (when at Saint Antonio) he would have him sent to some place of perpetual confinement in the inte- rior. Thus vengeance has overtaken the ingrate apd mur- derer when he least expected it. In the evening we w^t to see some performers on the slack rope, who were no wise extraordinary in their performances, except in language which would almost bring a blush on the cheek of the most abandoned o£ the female sac in the United States. 2d June, Tuesday./^^ln the day time were endeavoring to regulate our watches by my compass, and in an instant that my back was turned some person stole it ', I cpuld by no means recover it, and J. had strong suspicions that the theft was approved, as the instrument had occasioned great dissatisfaction. This day the captain went out to dine with some monks, who would have thought it profanation to have had us then* guests, notwithstanding the priest of the place had escorted us round the town and to all the missions ; and we found him a very communicadve, liberal and m* [telligent man. We saw no resource for a dinner, but in the inventive genius of a little Frenchman who had ac. pmpanied us from Chihuahua, where he had been officii ig one year as cook to the general, of whom he gave IS many interesting anecdotes, a id in fact he was of in- tite service to us ; we supported him and he served IS as cook, interpreter, &c. It was astonishing with fhat zeal he strove to acquire news and information for lis ; and as he had been four times through the provinces, 1 ' ->?* ii .; :.m ■&^ M sTJi F-rri) 364 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ;i 1 f' he had acquired considerabk kiiowledge of thft cotm^^ people, &c He went off and in a very short time return- ed with iable-clotb^ plates, and a dinner of three or four courses, a bottle of i wine with a pretty girl to attend on the table. We enquhred by what magic he had brought it about, and found he hsid been to one of the officers and no. tified, that it was the wish of the commandant that he should supply the two Americans with a decent dinner, (this we explained to Bardo in the evening, and he laugh* cd heartily) which was done, but we took care to compeii< sate them for their trouble. We parted from the captain with regret, and asfiu< ranees of remembrance. Departed at five o'clock, es^ corted by ensign and men, and came on to the Rio Grande, which we passed and encamped at a Rancho on the other side. Distance 7 miles. | 3d June, Wednesday.'-'The musquetoes which had commenced the first night on this side Montelovez, now had become very troublesome. This day saw the fint horse-flies — saw some wild horses— came on in the opes plain, and in a dry time, where there was no wata*. Dis- tance 30 miles. 4th June, Thursday.^-Czmt 16 miles to a pond and dined-— great sign of wild horses— in t^ itemoon to the river Noissour swiming, where we . iVed,«althougitj not more than ten steps wide. Distance 36 vmks, 5th June, Friday, — ^After loosing two horses in pai ing the river (the water having fallen so tha^we forded crossed and continued onr route* Passed two herd wild horses, who left the road for us. Halted at a poi on the left oi the road, 15 miles, where we saw the oak since we entered New Mexico, and this was scrulijed by a oak. Passed njany deer yesterday and to day. Came oiler AI*G to a small creek at night, where we met a party of thfte p\x\)]\ ton. (aoc m wis , |1 •™i THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, fco. %%jl eompany of Saint Femaadez retummg from the Ime. Du- taoce 31 miles. 6th June, Stf/ar^jr.—- Marched early and met several pirties of troops returning from Texas, vhere they had been sent to rdnforce, when our troops were near the line. Immenae numbers of cross roads mads by the wild horses. Killed a yfiLd hog, which on examination I found to be very different from the tame breed, smaller, brown, long hair and short legs : they are to be found in all parts between Red river and the Spanish settlements. Passed an e icampment made by the Lee Panes^^met one of said nation with his wife. In the afternoon struck wood land, whidi was the first we had been in from [the time we left the Osage nation. Distance 39 miles. Vb Junsi Sunt/jy.— -Came on 15 miles to the river ano, the line between Texas and Cogquilla-»a little stream, Rancho. From thence in the aftet- to Saint Antonio. We halted at the mission of Saint ih—- received in a friendly manner by the priest of the and others. We were met out of Saint Aiitonio about three miles governors Cordero and Herrara, in a coach. We re- to their quarters, where we were received like thdr en. Cordero informed me that he had discretionary "ed , althoug^Bders as to the Jiodeofmygcangoutof the country: that tnilts. ■ tb^6f<^i^ wished me to choose my time, mode, &c. and, horses in passjtt any sum of money I might want was at my service : cotmtry^ it retum- t or four attend on broughtit ,f$ and no* salt that be gnt dinner, td he laugh- to coropen- jt, and assu- , o'clock, es* ineon to the \ ataRancho \ es wluch had utelovez, ncfw saw the ftcsi ,n in the opea walBT. DJs- toapondaM Ifternoontothe latwe f ordedA in the mean time Robmson and myself would make *T^_Q herd oiS quarters our home ; and that he had caused to be va- ^ ited at a ponvd and prepared a house immediately opposite for the saw the foA^ption of my men. In the evening his levee was at- I , • ^2^s scruAed by a croud of officers and priests, at which was L Came oiler M*Guire and Dr. Zerbin. After supper we went I pj^iy of thAe public square, where might be seen the two go- It a f I ^ J i> ' ' ' •« \m^\': H i . . Ii ^Si: '^H t i ^1^1 1 ^S| ^■1 MB' 1 %m -im mm V Wl'^iil . 1 ■ R?T> .'■ j pm •*■ pl' 1*^;^ l.: :;| ■ 766 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE vemors joined in a dance with people, who in the daytime would approach them with reverence and awe. We were here introduced to the sister of lieutenant Malgares's wife, who was one of the finest women we saw •—she was married to a captain Ugarte, to whom we had letters of introduction. ' 8ih June, MondEiff.'— Remained at Saint Antonio. ' i 9tb June^Tuesdaf^-^A large party dined at ggver. nor Cordero's, who gave as his first toast, ** The Presi. "dent of the United States."— Vive la-^^Iretumed the com. pliment by toasting *< His Catholic Majesty." These toasti were followed by ** General Wilkinson," and one of the company then gave, " Those gentleman \ their safe andj ** happy arrival in their own country— their honorable *' ception, and the continuation of the good und ** which exists between the two countries." ' lOth June, Wednesday,-'-' A large party at the yemor^s to dinner. -He gave as a toast, " His Gomp; •VHerrara.'^ 1 1/A /«ii^, TAww^jy.— Preparing . to march to row. We this evening had a conversation with the governors, whvem they . exhibited an astonishing knoi ledge of the political character of our executive, and local interests of the dMerent parts of the imion. I2th June, Friday. -^^Om of the captains fromi kingdom of Leon having died, we ware invited to ai theburkl, and accompanied the two governors in coach, where we had an op^rtunity of viewing the lemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of Spani^ church, attended by the militlary honors, \vlijPhich he was conferred on the deceased by his late brethreiftt whilst arms» Governor Cordero gave the information of I M^q* inteoded expedition to the commandant general as mwY other asJ fora » marc the I inard 1 tie day time j^toiuo. 3d at ggver- «« The Prea. jniedthecom. » ThesetoastO andoneofthel thdr 8afeasd| [ miderspjding arty at the HisGompa THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, Sec. i^ as July. The same month I took my departure. Hi» in- formation was received via Natdiez. IStb JwUf Saturday,'^'Tldi morning there was marched 200 dragoons* for the sea coast to look out for the English) and that evening colonel Cordero was to have inarched to join them. We marched at seven o*clock ; governor Cordero taking us out in his coach about two leagues, accompa- nied by father M'Guire, Dr. 2^bin, &c. It may not be improper to mention here, something I of father M'Guire and doctor Zerbin, who certainly treat- I ed us with all imaginable attention while at Saint Antonio. The former was an Irish priest, who formerly resided on the coast above Orleans, and was noted for his hospitable land social qualities. On the cession of Louisiana, he fol- I lowed the standard of the *' king, his master," who never Isufers an old servant to be neglected. He received at ICuba an establishment as chaplain to the mint of Meidco, ■whence the instability of human affairs carried him to Saint lAntonio. He was a man of chaste classical taste, obser- lion and research. Doctor Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez, but in onsequence of pecuniary embarrassm^its emigrated to be Spanish territories. Being a young ttvm of a hand- ome person and insinuating address, he had obtained the will of governor Cordero, who had conferred on hitn [appointment in the king's hospital, and many other ad- itages by which he might have made a fortune ; but he ad recently committed some very great indiscretions, by [hich he had nearly lost the hvor of colonel Cordero ; at whilst we were there he was treated with attention. We took a friendly adieu of governor Herrara and lur other friends at Saint Antonio. li 36t JOURNAL OP A VOYAGE mt; «r' 1 1 most txpet howt advani prmdi iuced General pyerm ytnuoe. was ado expired I will here tttempc to pourtray a (amt teutrnhhadtM i]^ characters of the two governors whom we found it Saint Antonio; but whose supeNexceHent qualities )t would require the pen of a master to do justice. Don Antonio Cordero, is about five feet ten inches in height, ftfty years of age, hk complexion, and blue eyes : he wore his hair turned back, and in every part of his deportment was legibly written ^ The Soldier." He yet possessed an es^Uflnt constitution^ and a body wliidi appeared to be neithtt impaired by the &tignes of the va* rious campaigns he had made, nor4M*gui^ ^y thenuoM- rous wounds received from the enemies of hia king. He iras one of the select officers who had been chosen by the court of Madrid to be sent to America a^ot S5 yean since, to discipline and organize the Spanish provvinails, and had been employed in all the various kin^^doms vAMy'soo provinces of New Spain. Through the parts which velwho car explored, he was universally bdoved and respected ; anlHAousand when I pronounce him by far the vao^ popular man in thellhe vice internal provinces ^\ risk nothing by the assertion, spoke the Latin and French languages well — ^was rous, gallant, brave, and ancerely attached to his king coimtry. Those numerous qualifications have advarn him to the rank of colonel of cavalry, and governor of provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. His usual resid was Montelovez, which he had embellished a great di but since our taking possession of Louisiana, he had moved to Saint Antonio, in order to be nearer the frontii to be able to apply the remedy to any evil which mi^ arise from the collision of our lines. Don Simon de Herrara, is about five feet elevJ inches high, has a sparkling l^lack eye, dark complexid and hair. He was bora in the Canary Islands, served the infantry in France, Spain and Flanders, and speaks fed and' nbhoMteof i found at G^uaUties it « i ten Uiches A, and blue very {>2t of Idier." He body wliich es of the yh by thenume. boienby the boot S5 yean Bh proti^i* THROUGH tHE INTERIOR PROVINCES, &c. M9 French language well, and a little of the English. He is engaging in hia conversation with his equals ; polite and obfiging to his inferiors, and in all his actions one of the most g^lant and accomplished men I ever knew. He possesses a great knowledge of mankind from his eatperience in various countries and societies, and knows how to employ the genius of each of his subordinates to advantage. He had been in the United States during the . presidency of general Washington,' and had been intro* duced to that hero, of whom he sp^e in terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieutenant-colonel of inlantry, and pvemor of the kingdom of New Leon. His seat of go- lemment is Mont Elrey ; and probably, if ever a chief was adored by his people it is Herrara. When his time expired last, he immediately repaired to Mexico, attended loiufdoms aodlbf SCO of the most respectable people of ^is government, 2xts wluch ttelwho carried with them the aghs, tears ttid prayers of respected ; anllthousands that he might be continued in that government. ular man in thellhe viceroy thought proper to accord to their wishes pro assertion. oMjtn^re, and the king has since confirmed his nomination. eU— was gcml When I saw him he had been about one year absent, to his kingaoBoring which time the citizens of Rank in Mont Elrey had have advanceBot suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any of if families, until thdr common Either could be there, to nsent and give joy to the occauon by his presence at greater proof cduld be given of thait esteem and ive? In drawing a parrallel betwe«i the two friends, I i()uld say that Cordero was the man of greatest reading, d that Herrara possessed the greatest knowledge of the rid. Cordero has lived all his life a batchelor. "Her* married an English Lady in early youth, at Cadiz, slands, served Bo by her suavity of manners makes herself as much he- irs and speaks tBed and esteemed by the ladies as her noble husband governor oft usual reside ji great de [ana, he hadi irerthefronttfl rH which im^ five feet elev [dark comples"! f » S70 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE f 1 does by the men. By her he has several children, one now an officer in the service of his royal master. The two friends agree perfectly in one point, thdr hatred to tyranny of every kind ; and in a secret determi. nation never to see. that flourishing part of the New World, subject to any other European lord, except him, whom they think their honor and loyalty bound to defend with their lives and fortunes. But should Bonaparte seize on European Spain, I risque nothing in asserting, those two gentlemen would be the fifst to throw off the yoke, draw their swords, and assert the independence of their country. Before I close this subject, it may not be improper to state, that we owe to governor Herrara's prudence, that we are not now engaged in a war with Spain. Thisl wiJl be explained by the following anecdote which he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and which was con. firmed by him. When the difficulties commenced on the Sabine, the commandant general and the viceroy consulted each other, and they mutually determined to maintain (what they deemed) the dominions of their master, invio late. The viceroy therefore ordered Herrarat to join Cor- dero with 1300 men, and both the viceroy and general Salcedo, ordered Cordero to cause our troops to be at- tacked, should they pass the Rio Oude. Those ord were positively reiterated to Herrara, the actual coi manding officer of the Spanish army on the frontiers, gave rise to the many messages which he sent to genei Wilkinson when he was advancing with our troops ; bi finding they were not attended to, he called a council war on the question to attack or not j when it was givi as their opinion, that they should inunediately commeni a predatory warfare, but avoid a general engagementj yet, notwithstanding the orders of the viceroy, the coi At lei: thanks having thatth( thekinj timent] the arm chiefs ai Ot who cor of New bound t(j proportiJ called thj nVer of PmilesJ [«verythiji 'fate, owj 'dustry, [ Pernor cJ % of t\ "ediffere THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, Sec. 371 dren, one oint, their it deternu- gyr World, jjim, whom iefend with te seize on • those two yoke, draw :e of tbeif I improper to rudence, that n. Thiiwin ich he related rhich was con. nencedontbe eroy consulted \ to maintam' master, invio.1 irsitojoinCor- ,y and general roops to be a-' Those order te actual coi e frontiers, sent to gener )ur troops •, h\i lied a council' ^en it was give iately commenc ■al engagement ficeroy, the coi mandant general, governor Cordero's and the opinion of his officers, he had the firmness (or tenierity) to en|er into the agreement with general Wilkinson, which at present exists refative to our boundaries on that frontier. On his return he was recdved with coohiess by Cordero, and they both made their commimication to their supe- riors. Until an answer was received, said Herrara, ** I ** experienced the most unhappy period of my life, con- ** scions I had served my coimtry faithfully, at the same ^ time I had violated every princij^e of military duty." At length the answer arrived, and what was it» but the thanks of the viceroy and the commandant general, for having pointedly disobeyed their orders, with assurances that they would represent his services in exalted terms to the king. What could have produced this change of sen- timent is to me unknown,' but the letter was published to the army, and confidence again restored between the two chiefs and the troops. Our company consisted of lieutenant Jn. Echarania, who commanded the escort. Captain Eugene Marchon, of New Orleans, and father Jose Angel Cabaso, who was bound to the camp at or near the Trinity, with a suitable proportion of soldiers. We came on 16 miles to a place called the Beson, where we halted until the mules came u[>. Marched again at four o'clock, and arrived at the river of Guadalupe at eight o'clock at night. Distance 80 miles. 14tb June, Sunday,*^Wheii we left Saint Antonio, levery thing appeared to be in a flourishing and improving jstate, owing to the examples and encouragement given to idustry, politeness and civilization by their excellent go- ernor Cordero and his colleague Herrara ; also the large dy of troops maintained at that place in consequence of e difference existing between the United States and Spain. ^l^^^-1 I'M 2T2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ' 'I Wi ! Came on to the Saint Mark in the morning«Hn tht afternoon came on 15 milea further, but was late, owing to our having uken the wrong roadr Distance 90 mika. I5tb JufUf M0iu%.— Marched 20 miles in the mora* jng to a small pond, which is dry in a dry season, where- we halted. Here conUnenced the oak timber, it iiaviog been musqueet in genml from Saint Antonio. Fnuk like the Indiana territory. In the afternoon came on six miles further to a creek, where we encamped early. Dis* tance 96 miles. 16tb June, Tuesday^-^Marched early, and at eight o'clock arrived at Red river. Here was a small Spanish station and several lodges of Tancards, tall, handsome men, but the most naked savages I ever yet saw without exception. They complained much of their situation] In the afternoon passed over hilly, stony land ; occasionally saw pine timber. Encamped on a small run. Distance .26 miles. Killed one deer. nth June, Wednesday, — Came on by nine o'clock to mS^^ o'cloi a large encampment of Tancards, more than 40 lodges. P Their poverty was as remarkable as their independence.*! Immense herds of horses, &c. I gave a Camanche andf Tancard, each a silk handkerchief, and a reccmmendation| to the commandant at Natchitoches. In the aftemoc came on three hours and encamped on a hill, at a ere on the right hand side of the road. Met a'large herd mules escorted by four soldiers ; the lieutenant took sor money from them which they had in chargie. Distancij 30 miles. I8th June, Thursday ^•'^Viod.e on until half past tc o'clock, when we arrived at the river Brassos. Here isj stockade guard of on^ corporal, six men, and a ferry be Swam our horses over— one was drowned and sever Others near it, ovi^ng to their striking each other with the t„»ouoh™k,kte»,orphovikc.s,./,„ *• «her. «,d which mST^ ilt "k,""^ ' '"^'> '^' »ell wood«l rich toTT fhrt"^''' '^"?"' Wrt,,.- ■"iles. and pawed a creek which LTT^ °""' °" '™ ' ""passable four mile, n a '^ '»«««'• " nearly n»ce so miles. ' '"**" '^ others. Dis- «»nung-^,^.^^„*J^ ^ 00 .6 miles i„ .h^ H '»«. ponds and Jalll; SrZ°- """ '""™'' h>«dy. It «i„ed comide^briPr k"1 ^ "'^ 'l»«g»ge long before ni.rh.n^'. "^"^ ""'^ fefc' o'clock. Here »7lT!f '" *' "■^*' trinity by ^»«u-cely able ^ S rt'o SS" '' 7""' "» ^• ""X negroes, some French Inrw^ " ""'"'^'"f Jfnation of heutenant wS^nW^™" *~«^«' Wh »ll our horees ,M l '»'«>™val. Cross. «»ce 20 mi|«°^ '*" "^g* *i* much difficulty. SidJuw, Monday.— Msarh^ ,t , >« fo«noon. but dU noVS tr!" -^ '"'' '"'«'« K P. M. Father JoseZel c^f ""''' ""^ ^"s « this place for the pos^/1^' ^^^^ M. ftssed thick v«Li, l ?"''*"'•«'«« kh rich g,ass.'"'LTT'dispil tr" J"^ »nce 22 miles. ^ ' '° Nacogdoches. 'o'S2SnS^--™-'--'.efore. LT^S «"'«•! good land and If [i r V '•' 274 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 't1 l<»^il|:^il'; I ai to PC his die % xaoi tarn mth ficer horn cross( well timbered.^ Me| a sergeant from Nacogdoches. In the ^emoon made 20 miles and crossed the river Natchez, nmning N. W. i& S. E. 20 yStfds wide ; belly deep to horses at that time, but sometimes impassable. Tvo miles on this 6ide encamped on a hill in a little prairie- mules and loads arrived at twelve o'clock. The sandy soil and pine timber began again this afternoon, but good land near the river. Distance 40 miles. 24ft/j June, Wednesday,-^1\it horses came up this morning ; lost six over night. We marched early and in 15 miles came to the river Angeline, about the width of] the Natchez, running N. & S. Good land on its borders j —two miles further was a settlement of Ban* and Daven- port's, where were three of our lost hoises— one further found two more of cur horses where yre halted! for dinner. Marched at four o'clock, and at half pasl eight arrived at Nacogdoches— ^were politely received m the adjutant and inspector, ^nd captain Herrara, Dava port, &c. This part of the country is well w from whence we -, a We on in order to arrive at the house of Frenchman, i— - miles distant from the Sabine. I estopped at a house on the road, where the lieutenant in« I formed me an American by the name of Johnson lived, but was surprized to find he had crossed the line with his munily, and a French family in his place. When we be- gan conversing with them they were much alarmed think- ling we had come to examine them, and expressed great lattachment to the Spanish government, but was somewhat lastonished to find I was an American ofHcer, and on my Icorapanions stepping out, expressed themselves in strong ItermB of hatred to the Spanish nation. I excused them for their weakness, and gave them a caution. Fine land, veil watered and timbered, hickory, oak, sugar-tree, &c,. )istance 40 miles. 2Qth June, Monday.-^Owr baggage and horses came lip about ten o'clock, when we dispatched them on.... larched ourselves at two o'clock, and arrived at the river fabine by five. Here we saw the cantonment of the Spa- 1^ n k Iff!!! i'V:.t =ii are JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE nish troops, when commaiuM by colonel Haraniyonthe late affitir J>ecween the two govemments. Grossed the I^Aime river and came zboat one league on this side to a Ihtle prairie, wher^ we encamped. Parted with lieutenant Guoctiana and our Spanish escort. And here I think pro. per to bear testimony to the polit^ess, civility and atten. tion of all the officers, who at different periods and in dif. ferent provinces commaded my escort, (but in a particular manner, to Malgares and Barelo, who appeased studious to please and accoinmodate, all that lay in thdr power) also the obliging, miM dispositions evinced tii all instances by their rank and file. On this side of the Sabine I went up to a house where I found 10 or 15 Americans hovering near the line, in order to embrace an opportunity of car- ryingion some illicet commerce with the Spaniards^ v^o i on their side were equally eager. Here we found Tharp I and Sea, who had been old sergeants in general Wayne's | army. Distance 15 miles. SOr^ June, Tuesday, — ^Marched early and came on to I a house at a small creek 15 miles, where lived a Dutch £imily named Faulk, where we left a small roan horsel which had given out. Marched twelve miles further to a I large bayou, where had been an encampment of our troops,! which I recognized by its form, and took pleasure in im*! agining the position of the general's marquee and thel tents of my different friends and acquaintances. IMstancej 28 miles. 1st July, Wednesday. — ^Finding that a horse of docto Robinson's, which had come all the way from Chihuahua,] could not proceed, was obliged to leave him here. Yes- terday and to day passed many Choctaws, whose clothing furniture, &c. evidently marked the superiority of situatiod of those who bordered on our frontiers, to those of th naked, half starved wretches whom we found haoi usLyOnthe is ^detoa nUeutenant y and atten- s and ^^ ^' I a pardcuUflf »ed stu^ous thdr power) a all instances Sabine 1 went icans hovering ►rtumty of car- paiuards^ vrtio e found tharp .neral Wayne's THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES, Ice 277 ground ^he Spanish settk.: is. Came on and passed a string of huts, supposed to ix built by our troops, and at a small run a fortified camp but a half mile from the hill, where anciently stood the village Adyes. We proceeded on to a spring wh^e we halted for our loads, and finding the horses much fatigued, and not able to proceed, left them and baggage and proceeded on, when we arrived at NalchiU)ches about four o'clock, P. M. Language cannot express the gaiety, of my heart, I when I once more beheld the standard of my country waved aloft ! — ** All hail cried I, the ever sacred name of ["country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, I" and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man ! !" [Was affectionately received by colonel Freeman, captains IStrong and Woolstoncraft, lieutenant Smith, and all the jificers of the post. Z. M. Pike. and came on ttt I e UvedaDutAI mall roan horsel Ues further toil Qt of our troops,! pleasure in M arquee and the! ances. Distancej , horse of docto fromChihuahui,] limhere. Ye^ whose clothing Lrity of situatioij {, to those of W found hang* IS*. I !P tj^ :i , II !. ,:'? iieteon 180 Time of «*«frmioi w 11 111 M If u IT » n » a • n jo N jtf {» I" I" I" )1 .a In *^ Jil!«' J Jittteorciogkal obaervationt ma4e by eafitain Pifte during # Umr he vftde through the Inttn^U PrtwueeM Iff Acw Sjfiainf intke ifeur i8or. , Time of oblrrvatiaib t ru m^Hfr •kr- Wind. fayi.jiiontb«. ' IWMl«t, » V. U. ■iui.iet. Cow rae. WVea, ■ S - 4 • ., et«iid)r tc mow H ' — fteiir 4 1 mew 1 > d^ f 4 clear wt W ■•»»• « * clovdy Ic «iMW 11 ' 4ik, 7 1 htll M r 1 . . cloody .m p 9 S elew m r W haOandmow SI »■ n 1 4 w frea^ 11 s ^ gentle M 1 • M r frw* M s cloodjr 11 w II . m r • It 7 iMr 'It W ten* IT 4l-> 1 ■ X < • J 1 tnJk a • ^ • s • • * 1 i 9 , clear b eald • • . . anew and hail 8 B • • . . rt S « clear 1 s tm»« « . do. • • 1 4 do. 1 «««« 1 ■ do. B fhiali t s do. '8 gentle • « M r fteah I . 4 m M • J « 11 m H r lentle ■» 13 If m m 14 If m a If 14 • 13 l« cloudy ' 14 17 m 13 If • 14 14 T ! ■. « 11 U If - u • IS 17 • Hn 14 1* light mow lu r» If If • 1" (U 14 IS • Bh < IS lA . Hl7 M If ■ . ^ • 1" 17 1« • In 18 Iff ■ K! If 10 > In 14 If ■ Ib IS 1ft • jB If 17 > ■"l ' 13 Ift « u Meteonlogital ibarr-Mtiona made hy iafitd^- PiUe^ during a ttfui' he mgule through the "Internal '!Pr&vince» qf J^eio Sphinx in the year 1807. Timor obMrTKiim. • "*• ; .; '• Wiiid. days. rnontln. ■nn-riM. SP. M. snn-«et. ■'coii-*;^' , ■ ' rote*. it ■^ \ . >l IW 18 ' I clear ( • M U4 i4 "• 11 17" '■ ' ■* t a? >2' < i« r Xi 17 ! ■• ts 14 IT 16 • * . 1 i" as IS 81 vt ■■' 1 I 1. 30- ij M 80 \ i_ 1 •' '■ 1 "^ li i . \ i\ ' ^ 1 ' ] • ( S 14 *"8« i 17 - 1 j 3 M 16 tame rain 1 clear • r 1 4 • 1 1« >^84 > 17 ' S 17 '93 : le- ' '- ', W 17 itn t.i 16 . < ■ i ' ~ . 7 ' . 1« i» 15 •'^i 1 w ; nyv 8 IV '17 15 w ' ' ■ ^»8 30 . 10 111 84 < IT • t w II - 'SJ » . • • 1 13 J« a7 ' . , . i , , 1 13 87! M '■ . ' ' - 1 X 14 10 30 30 1 • 1 1« -^ 11 38 1-li . clear SK 16 17 .1 85 83 30 cloady , •otaie rain S 18 89, 84 81 1-8 I r»in • IV 80^1-8 . 15 1 loudy i4>i>e rain B gentle M - r 13 84 . a SI 88 10 ilondy ••' as - 84 - rainy morning (clear « as 15' 83 15 w a4 14 88 81 . « 15 16 84 83 • • ao 15 83 88 - clondyandra^n W S7 14 81 1«1"- ,rain , 88 15 83 i 15 doody s' 80 •», . do. \ ,• ' .4 ■ ' 30 ^ i 30 80 do. • ' [ /' ■' 31 •• 88 87 85 do. ' s 1 1 w 17- 8 , , ( ' • 8 SS - 85 • cloudy SK 3 rS • SO ■ - -•• 4 J •^ 1 • 30 V - ■ - \ I ! i9 h ' N. B. The foregoing urc from Reaumer's Thermometer. 1 IKE. Ing a tm^ ihiniin the VXvA. t«tce. •.\ gtntle lerroomeier- APPENDIX TO PART I. £ No. 1.3 Head of the rafiith de Moyetif Aug. 30) 18Q5^ Dear General, I arrived here this dajr, after what I have considered as ^ rather an unfortunate voyage, having had a series of rainy weather for the first six days, by which means all our biscuit was more or less damaged, they being in very bad and open barrels, and having g»t twice K> fast on forked sawyers or old trees, as to oblige me [partly to unload, and staving in a plank in another, which nearly I sunk our bo^t before we got on shore, and detained us one whole [day. These all occasioned unavoidable detentions of two days, and |the innumerable islands and sand bars (wliich, without exaggera- tion, exceeds the river below the Ohio) has been the cause of much Qe:(pected delay : but I calculate on getting to Prairie de Chien in |it least the same time I was coming here. We were met yesterday I the Rapids by a Mr. William Ewing, who is sent here by the go- vernment of the United States to teach the savages agriculture ; nd I perceive in governor Harrison's instructions is termed an gent of the United States, under the instructions of P. Choteau nd, he says), with a salary of 500 dollars per annum. I conceived pu did not know of this functionary, or that you would have men- pned him to m|i He was accompanied by a Monsieur Louis Tis- Houire, who informed me he had calculated on going with me I my interpreter, and that you had spoken to him on the occasion, 1 !'(.-■ •■-{m m 4«* and appeared much ditappointeu .1 1 had no inttrue- tioM to that effect i he laid he had prOi.ased to discover mines, kc. which no person linew but himself) but) as I conceive him much of a hypocrite, and possessing great gasconism, I am happy he was not chosen for my voyage. 'I'hey brought with them three perogues of Indians, who lightened my barge and assisted me up the Rapids. They expressed great regret at the news of two men having been killed on the river below (which I believe to be a fact, as I have it from various channels)) and was very apprehensive they would be censureu by our government as the author, which from every en< quiry, they conceive not to be the case, and seem to ascribe the tnnt- der to the Kickapoos, and strongly requested I would hear what they had to say on the subject : this, with an idea that this place would be a central position for a trading establishment, for the Sacs, Reynards, lowas of the dc Moyfln, the Sioux from the head of sud river and Paunte of the riviere de Roche, has induced me to halt part of the day to-morrow. I should say more relative to Messn. Swings and Houire, only that they propose visiting you with; the Indians who descend (as I understand by your request) in about 30 days, when your penetration will give you ie tout entemble of tbeir characters. I have taken the liberty of incios'ing a letter tq Mn, Pike to your care. My compliments to lieutenant Wilkinson, and the tender of I my highest respects for your lady, with the best wishes for your | health and prosperity, I am) general) Your obedient servant) (Signed) Z. M. Pike. Qeneral WilHnMon. [No. 2.] Prairie de CMetif Sejit. 5, 1 805. Dear GENERAt, I rrrived here the day before yesterday, and found my inter-j preter gone in the employ of Mr. Dickson. I then endeavored gain information relative to crossdng the falls -, and amidst the ign fe.. m Al^PENDlX TO PARt I. "tl 1 no infttrue- r inine»» kc. him much of py ho was not s peroguet of p the R»pW». I having been t, as 1 have It Lhey would be rom evei7 en. cribe the mur juld hear whrt that this place nt, for the Sacs, the head of »wd uced me to halt ative to Messa ngyou with, the icst) in about 30 enaemble of tbe« a letter to ^^n, ■ \ Sep. 5, 1805. id found my int«' "(then endeavored \nd amidst the igi ranee of the Canadlanst and all the contradiction In the worldt T hftViB learned it is impossible to carry my large barge round the shootj I have therefore hired two Schenectady Wrges, in which I shall embark the day aAer to-morrow, with some expectation and hopis of leeing the head of the Mississippi aAd the town of Saint Looia yet this winter. I have chosen three places for niilitary establUhmeittt ; the first on a hill about 40 miles above the Hvef de Moyen rapids, on the W. side of the river, in about 41* 3' ^. latitude. The channel of the river runs on that shore ; the hill in Tront is about 60 fbet perpendicular, nearly level on the top. 400 yards in the tear \i • small praiiic fit for gardening, and over on the E. side of the river you have an elegant view on an immense prairie, as far as the eye can extend, now and then intern)||^ed by clumps of treesi and tb crown all, immediately undir the hill is a limestone spring, suffi- cient for the consumption of a regiment. The landing is good and bold, and at the point of the hill a road could be made for a waggon in half a day. This place I conceive to be the best to answer tKe general's instructions relative to the intermediate post between Prairie de Chien and St. Louis ; but if its being on the W. bfnlL is a material objection, about 30 miles above the second Sac village at the third yellow bank on the E. side, is a commanding place, on a prairie, and most elegantly situated, but is scarce of timber, and no water but that of the Mississippi. When thinking on the post to be established at the Uuiscousing, I did not look at the general's in- structions. I therefore piched on a spot on the top of the hill on the W. side of the Mississippi, which is feet high, level on the top, and completely commands both rivers, the Mississippi being only one half mile wide and the Ouiscousing about 900 yards when full. There is plenty of tin^ber in the rear, and a spring at no great distance on the hill. If this position is to hare in vie# thie ahtto^- ance of any I'uinpean power who inight ht induced toat^atk it with cannon, it has infinitely the preference to a position calliid the Petit \Gm on the Oniscousing, which I vidted and marked thie ndxt day. This latter position is three miles up the Ouiscousing on a prklrie |hiil, on the W. side, where we should be obliged to get our timber from the other side of the river, {tnd our water out of it; there is likewise a small channel which runs on the opposite side, navigable [n high water, which could not be commandt^ by the gims Of ihe [ort, and a hill about three* quarters of a mile, in the rear from hich it could be cannonaded. These two positions I have marked [y blazing trees, &c. A Mr. Fisher of this place, will direct any iiK : il '^! :i| # >'4a 'S'.-« A m )y,i ' ^* ^i v'" .••1^ m \x " f, ' ■fe ti ■ *' . . i ■f ' m il 'M il li m ;| APPENDIX TO PART I. officer who majr bo tent to occupy thorn. I found tho confiuenco of the Ouiicousing and Miuiiiippi be in Ut. N. 43* 38' 8". The daj of my arrival at the lead ininei, I wai taken with a feveri which} with Monsieur DubiA|ue having no hojg^a about his houtoi obliged me to content myself witii proposing to bim the in* closed queries ; the answers seem to carry with them the semblance of equivoci^tion. Messrs. Dubuque and Dickson were about sending a numhjt of chiefs to St. Louisa but the former confessing he was not autho ized, I have stopped them without in the least dissatisfying the Indians. Dickson is at Michilimackinac. I cannot say I have experi- enced much spirit of accommodation from his clerkSf when in their power to oblige me ; but I beg leave to recommend to your stten* tion a Mr. James Aird» who is flow in your country, as a gentleman to whose humanity and politeness I am much indebted ; also a Mr. Fisher of this pTace* the captain of militia and justice of the peace A band of Sioux between here and the Missouri have applied for two medals, in order that they may have their chiefs distingui /.ed w friends of the Americans : if the general thinks proper to send them here to the care of Mr. Fisher, with any other conunsnds, they may possibly meet me here, or at the falla of St. Anthony on my return; i. • • • « • • • t "\ • • ' • • ' ' • • * • The above suggestion vould only be acceptable under the idea of our differences with Spmn being compromised ; as should there be war, the field of action is the sphere for young men, where they I hope, and at least aspire, to gather laurels or renown, to smooth the decline of age ; or a glorious death. You see, my dear general,! write to you like a person addressing a father : at the same time I hope you will consider me not only in a professional, but a personal I view, one who holds you in the highest respect and esteem. Mjl ; compliments to lieutenant Wilkinson, and my highest respects to | ^'yourlady. • ^ I an; general, ,, ^^ Your obedient ? i ';mi< , (Signed) Z. *.i. Jc'iKEjLt. Oencral Wilkinton; it •yi'juA m. APPENDIX i'O PART I. infiuence of ken wUh % >• about hu , »jlm iVie In- le »erobl»ce ing • ft^*'*^'*' at not »utho aatiify^ng the [have expen- ,, when in their to youT *^**^' M • gentletnm tedi alBoaMr. ce of the peace have apptied for efa dl»ungui .ed ,, proper ^9^f other coniii^Mids, f St. Anthony on QUERIES Proponed to Mr. Dubugue—witA '/• antvnfr». I. Whnt it the date of your grant of the nuoes From the ta* :«g«« ? Lie under the Wm . aa should there /men, vrhere they UtoBHioothihe toy dear general, 4 Ltthewmeiim^H ',nal,butape«onjl| and esteem, m highest respects w| Anrwrr. The copy of the grant Is in Mr. Soiilar Vs office \x St. Louis. 3. What it the date of the confirmation by the Spaniards ? Ann. The same at to query firtt. 3. ' What is the extent of your grant ? Ann. The same at above. 4. WhiU is tlie extent of thi mines ? inp T h - jt; fight or twenty-seven leaguei long, and from one tothr ; t,o\d. a Lr«»''. marie per annum ? ^' AtiH. I lom 30 to 40,000 pounds. 6. Quantity of lead per cwt. of mineral ? An». Seventy-five per cent. 7. Quantity of lead in pigt ? An: All he maket, at he neither manufacturet bar, sheet-lead, nor shot. 8. If mixed with any other mineral ? Am. We have seen some copper, but having no person suffici- ently acquainted with chymistry to make the experiment properly, I cannot say as to the proportion it bears to the lead. Dubuque. (Signed) Z. M. Pikr. Lead mines, Sept. 1, 1805. ■Itr- V.'\ .i. i'lXEjU. im ' 'i: « '.'V 'tl ^ 9 f* w9 II ■1' 1 vM 8 : ■•^z JS; '•'■■>' i !>.i ,;.K i U*^ i'V i*' i H s ' ■■\t 1 .-*■ ■J I. ' i i y. APPENDIX TO PART I. I No. 3. ] CONFERENCES HXLD WITH DIFFERENT BANDS OF INDIANS, ON A VOTAGE U!> TUt MISSISSIPPI, IN THE TEARS 1805 AND 1806. Sfieech '^'livered to the Sioux, at the entrance of the river St. P^tfr't, 23d Sefitcmber^ 1805. Brothers — I am happy to meet you here at this council fire, >Thich your father has sent me to kindle, and to take you by the hands as our children. We having but lately acquired from the Spanish the extensive territory of Louisiana.— Our general has thought proper to send out a number of his young; warriors to visit all his red children — to tell them his will, and to hear what request they may have to make of tlitir father. I am happy the choice has fell on me to come this road ; as I, find my brother's, the Sioux, ready to listen to my words. Brothers— It is the wish of our government to establish rnl« iitary post's on the Upper Mississippi, at such places as might be I thought expedient — I have, therefore, examined the country, and have pitched on the mouth of the river St. Croix. This place and ( the falls of St. Anthony— I therefore, wish you to grant to the Univ ted Stales, nine miles square, at St Croix, and at this place, fromij league below the conSuence of the St. Peter's and Mississippi, toil league above St. Anthony, extending three leagues on each sideofl the river ; and as we are a people who are accustomed to have! all our acts wrote down, in order to have them handed to ourl children— -I have drawn up a form of an agreement, which we wiffi both sign in the presence of the traders now present. After v\ know the terms ^/o will fill it up, and have it read and interpreted to you. Brothers— Thost posts are intended as a benefit to you. Tin old chiefs now pi^esent must see, that their situation improves bvj communication with the whites. It is the intention of the Uiiiiej Statesto establish at those posts, factories, in which the Indians in<| procure all their things at a cheaper and better rate than they do novl or, than your traders can afford to sell them to you, as they are sil gle men who come far in sniall boats. But your fathers are niiu (I i APPENDIX TO PART I. ' . ( )6. i^er Su P«;t and strong) and will come with a strong arm, in large boats. There will also be chiefs here, who can attend to the wants of their bro* thers, without their sending or going all the way to St. Louis, and will see the traders that go up your rivers,and know that they are good men. Brothers— Another object your fathei; has at heart, is to en- deavour to make peace between you and the Chipeway's. You have now been a long tinte at war, and when will yoi} stop ? If neither side will lay down the hatchet, your paths will always be red with blood ; but if you will consent to make peace, and suffer your father to bory the hatchet between you, I will endeavour to bring dowii some of the Chipeway chiefs with me to St. Louis, where the good work can be completed, under the auspices of your mutual father. lam much pleased to see that the young warriors have halted here to hear my words this day ; and as I know it is hard for a warrior to be struck and not strike again, I will send (by the first Chipeway I meet) wurd to their chiefs :— That, if they have not yet felt your tomahawk, it is not because you have no legs or the hearts of men, but because you have hstened to the voice of your father. Brothers — If the chiefs do not listen to the voice of their kher, and continue to commit murders on you and our traders, they vill call down the vengeance of the Americans i for they are not like a blind man waililng into the fire. They were once at war with us, and joined to all the northern Indians, were defeated at Roche- .nt to establish m. ,pUcesasmiBUtk \ the country, a™ HDe Boeuf, and were obliged to sue for peace — that peace we granted T his place ^ Hthem. They know we are not children, but, like all wise people, are (low to shed blood. to grant to the Uiii'i U this place, from Lues on each St ed accustomed to ha«i esent. After ^« Lead and interH L benefit to you. luation improve^ by] Bhothers.— Your old men probably know, that about 30 years we were sut)ject to, and governed by the king of the English ; lut he not treating us like children, we would no longer acknow- idge him as father — and after ten years war, in which he lost handed to ^'"■OCOOO men, he acknowledged us a free and independent nation. nt which we ^'''whey know that not many years since, we received Detroit, Michi- ackinac, and all the posts on the lakes from the English, and now It the other day, Louisiana from the Spanish ; so that we put one ton the sea at the east, and the other on the sea at the west ; and [once children, are now men ; yet, I think, the traders who come m Canada are bad birds amongst the Chipeways, and instigate m to make war on their red brothers the Sioux, in order to pre- hich the Indians '"•tour traders from going high up the Mississippi. This I shall . te than they donom^ifg jjjto, and if so, warn those persons of their ill conduct. 'you, as they are siT L.our Cathers are w"" Icntion of the I3"i^« . '';| you some Vui^io^' I the United States i tenant /•• ^^^- Land the v^arnor^ es, which, -V.en ,haU be binding < APPENDIX TO PART I. 9 at the inootli tff the St. Croix,* also from below the conflaence of the Mississippi and St. Peters up the Mississippi to include the fulls of St. Anthony, extending nine miles on each side of, the river, that the Sioux liAtidn grants to the United States the full sovereigntjr and powbrover said district fbr ever. Art 3. That, in condderation of the above grants, the United States shall pay (filled up by the senate with 3000 dollars.) Art.3. The United States promise, 6n their part, to permit the Sioik to pask and repass, hunt, or make other use of the said dis- tticH as they have formerly done without any other excepUon than thssii specified in article ^rst. * In testimony whereof we, the undersized, have hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth of the river St. Peters, on the 33d day of Septem- ber, 1805. Z. M. PiKB, Ist lieut. (L. S.) and agent at the above conference, his LS PbTIT CORBEAIT) Wat Ago Enaobs^ X (L.S.) mark his 1^ (L.S.) mark ■W,' 'H ,,, [No. 4. 1 St.Peteraf iZdSefit. 1805 ; 9^iiie*i«t(m thefalU qfSt. Jnthm^r I ARRIVED here two days since, but shall not be able to |part before the day tifter tomorrow ; three of my men have been I to view the falls, biut their reports are so contradictory, that no fnion can be formed from them. All the young warriors (of the tviilageaof Sioux near this place) and many chiefs had marched linst the phipeways, to revenge a stroke made on their peoplOf I very dagr after their return from their visit to the Illinois (when 1 the United StateS)im% ^^ demand wm' one league below: their reply wai «• from below."— 1 J j^hie n\iic* 9fl^*«ie (without iniquity) they may be made to agree. liw %■ '!1 t llnK \ APFEN^X T^^ARfl. marked with .he bloodjt^q"^^ ,unn.r headed '^''"Vf l^^Woiiw » *e m^' Wf?'*^* ™*- .here WW . »cew «"»*)' '^S^\^<=i'. Uj W^ *•"'." '»""" i„ ,vhich 1 touched 9-r"^i0^li^W- »"WW ■?* ' „.„,„a„y me down (to vi.it youj a««? ^ T ^. j,^ ,fc„ ,„ h^e iutaed -•>o« 'O0.<«> »t«' ,t^Uv«^^o»»ider«ionUW.n^ . 't :r,e,g.n.«l,.h«*e^d.««l.«>~ «^,,„ t„pri.„e>,... The re«o,s for it ««!**' ^""^ J^ke them present, atth. ooun- of ,h. cHsb, »»''.T** ."tn tWs"ountr, be valued « 500 do«an, d,, of article. "O-'';""^*;"^!^ of ihe« thing, were p^v.^ and the other, about 50 dpJ'W'rJ'r j .„ri« .hroud8,ta. ;::pert„ P-'>»f*.ra'J*eu"t"dStat..i.»d*ho«ghd«, \Z«> I "-« "<" f"™"'"'' ^^ „^ «ith the land, yet, it « I"'* ,hlt. i, the council P|!^?!«*jj^^rta.ert the amount of tho««- •our .«eWency may *■»" '"f ' ^aed in arucl. M. The, a» Lies » the conad.rat.on. to be .pec.n ^^^ ^^j_^y,,^^ . to„d me up to many '^'''''""'^^S,^ continue to kill fc ^" that it the Chipe^'y'"'-"^^;^ on the upper Ml..««p4 l„d an. who bear our tag'^h. CWpe^ , ^^ ^^^„„ ..^ ,k.„. bearing the Engli.h Bag) and ou « ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^, ^„d, ™d te«:h *e» » ';Snd:«d to .a„ a. .her. were ^ dy done. ThU I «» *' " ' ' „,ai„g „„der your licence., I kn»l per«.n. pr.«nt, who, "*°»S^, J™?he nam. of the W™ H S,b. Briu.h subject.. A":Mef tv „ri„r.onthe be»:tj . S^«^.old me to look ""■'^;" *"U^! «.dre were at our c J 'tat no. "' "T ,ln«eIw«*rfr«ver.l4l'eH t^d. Upi»ible.I ««' «^"™;^rXhave «4..^ doubt of m. J ind .hew th.m you on my «»^: informme *e «"d irrhTe^r r.rrre:iii.h™^» <>' - - •ir;; i(>i>l»J APPENDIX TO PART I. It \ft,yet dajjy iem,a»l?ecch, agh their coun- rceive Aat «e ,u vU\ p^eaw to leralionisWank. :ce privately two cntsatthecoun- ed at 200 dollars, ingswerepi^ivate rlet shrouds, fcc. and although the yet, itispo***^' nountof those ar- lead. They have Lube established; ontinue tokilltl>e, Upper Miasisttppi, Louldtaketherott' \wehadoncealrea- as there were sow ,urUcet^ces,lH of the li\a« Uvi^ Lviorsonth^bcacb L>»ereatourcot«j Lr several ilieech«« Ladoubtof tnak« [nform tn* the 60UI Lugues further-^l esoftuy dctevmii WntsoftheN.^' .•,'ir.', *«ii»''' compltny. These nre both in our country, and time and circumstan- ces only can determine in what manner I shall conduct myself to- ward them. *A Mr. M'Gillis, (whose father was a refugee, and had his eitkte confiscated by the Americans,) has charge of those factories. He, they say, is a sworn enemy of the tJnited States—- this was told me by a man, who I expect was a friend of the N. W. company ; but had quite a contrary effect than what he intended it to have : as I am determined, should he attempt any thing malicious towards me, (open force he dare not) to spare no pains to punish him. In fact, the dignity and honor of our government requires, that' they should be taught to gather their skins in quiet, and even then not in a clandestine manner— added to which, they are the ve- ry instigators of the war between the Chipeways and Sioux, in order that they may monopolize the trade of the Upper Mississippi. The chiefs who were at Saint Louis this spring, gave up their English medals to Mr. Chouteau. He promised them to obtain American medals in return, and send them u(t by some officer. They applied to me for them, and said they were their commis- sions ; their only distinguishing mark from the other warriors. I promised to write you on the occasion, and that you would i emedy the evil. The chiefs were very loth to sign the articles relative to the land, asserting that their word of honor for the gift was sufficient) and that it was an impeachment of their probity, to require them to bind themselves further, Sec. See. This is a small sample of their way of thinking. I must mention something to your excellency relative to the man recommended to me by Mr. Chouteau as inter- preter ; at the time he solicited the employ, he was engaged to Mr. Dickson, and on my arrival at the Prairie was gone up the St. Pe- ters. I understand he is to be recommended for the a])pointment of the interpreter tu the Utiited States in this quarter : ou the con- trary, I beg leave to recommend for that appointment, a Mr. Joseph Reinville, who has served as interpreter for the Sioux last spring at the Illinois, and who has gratuitously and willingly, (by the permis- sion of Mr. f razer, to whom he is engaged,) served as my interpre- iter in all my conferences with the Sioux. He is a man respected by the Indians, and I believe an honest one. I likewise beg leave to IrecGinmend to your attention Mr. Frazer, one of the two gentlemen 'ho dined with you, and was destined for the Upper Mississippi. [e waited eight or ten days at the Prairie for me, detained his inter- f * Incorrect — he being a Scotchman, a gentlemen, and a man of honor ; but lis was the information 1 received at the St. Peters. If i If;; m _ i ft'' f "1 I V •'•'W 1 ilMi 'I ^^mi 13 APPENDIX TO PART I. preter, and from thence forward has continued to evince a zeal, to promote the success of my expedition* by every means in his power. He is a Vermonter born, and although not possessing the advantages of a polished education, inherits that, without which, an education serves but to add to the frivolity of the character, candor, bravety, and that amor patria, which distinguishes the good of every nation, fnim Nova Zembla to the Une. Finding that the traders were play- ing tlie devil with their rum ; I yesterday in council informed the Indiana, that their father had prohibited the selling of liquor to them, and that ihi7 would oblige him and serve themselves, if they would prevent their young men from paying the credits of any fft- ders who sold rum to them, at the same time charging the chiefs to treat them well ; as their faiher although good, would not again for* give them, but punish with severity any injuries committed on their traders. This I presume, general, is agreeable to the spirit of the laws. Mr. Frazer immediately set the example, by separating his spirits from the merchandize in his boats, and returning it to the Prairie — although it would materially injure him if the other traders retained theirs and sold. j In fact, unless there are some persons at our posts here, (when established) who have authority efTectuaily to stop the evil by confis- cating the liquors, &c. it will stiil be continued by the weak and malevolent. I shall forbear giving you a description of this place until my return, except only to observe, that the position for the post, is in the point between the two rivers, which equally commands both ; and at St. Croix on the hill on the lower side of the entrance on the K. bank of the Mississippi ; owing to cloudy weather, &c. I have taken no observation here ; but the head of Lake Pepin is in 44° 58' 8" N, and we have made very little northing since. The Mis- sissippi is 130 yards wide, and the St. Peters 80 yards at their | confluence. . / 24M Sefit. — This morning the Little Corbeau came to see me I from the village, (he having recovered an article, which I suspected | to be taken by the Indians) he told me many things which the cere- mony of the council would not permit his delivering there ; andl added, he must tell me, that Mr. Roche, who went up the river St. Peters, had in his presence gave two kegs of rum to the Indians;! be (tlie chief) asked him " why he did so, as he knew it was con'f " rary to the ortters of his father ; that Messrs. Mareir and Tremerj ^ had left their rum behind them, but that he alone had rum contrai^l « to the orders." He then gave the chief 1 5 bottles of rum, as I sup APPENDIX TO PART I. 13 place until my ,r the port, wm •omtnandabolhi entrance on tbe Itbev, W. I !-•« Pepin iain44 Isince. TheMh. 80 yards at their | uicatne to seems Iwbich I suspected La which the cere. Bering there ; and tnt up the river St imtothe Indian .knewitwa**^"'" Vlareir and Tremet] hehadrutncontratJI pote to bribe him to silence. I presume he should be taught the impropriety of his conduct} when he applies for his licence the next year. 26th Se/it. above the falU of St. Anthony. The cloudy weather still continues, and I have not been able to to take the latitude. Mr. Frazer has been kind enough to send two Qf hi^eople across from the Sioux town, on the St. Peters, for my dispatches, and the place being dangerous for them, I must haste to dispatch them ; of course, general, the following short sketch of the falls, will merely be from le coufi d'tmil. The place where the river fallll over the rocks, appears to be about 1 5 feet perpendicular, the sheet being broken by one largb island on the E. and a small one on the W. t|ie former commencing below the shoot, and extending 500 yards above ; the river then falls through a continued bed of rocks, with a descent of at least 50 feet perpendicular in the course of half a mile— from thence to the St. Peters, a distance of eleven miles by water, there is almost one continued rapid, aggravated by the interruption of i2 small islands. The carrying place has two hills, one of 25 feet, the other 12, with an elevation of 45**, and is about three fourths of a mile in length. Above the shoot, the river is of a considerable width, but below, (at this time) I can easily cast a stone over it. The rapids or suck, continues about half a mile above the shoot, when the water becomes calm and deep. My barges are not yet over, but my trucks are preparing, and I have not the least doubt of succeeding. The general, I hope, will pardon the tautologies and egotisms if my communications, as he well knows Indian affairs are produc- ;ire of such errors, and that in a wilderness, detached from the civi- lized world every thing, even if of little import, becomes magnified the eyes of the beholder, and when I add, my hands are blistered working over the rapids, I presume it will apologise for the man- er and style of my communications. I am, general, Your obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, Lt. General Wilkinaon. N. B. I. flatter myself with hearing from you at the Prairie, un way down. .Hk »■, . f I kes of rum> as 1 9"F I ^ 'l i 1. 44 APPENDIX TO PART I. [ No. 5. ] A*. W. eatabliahment^ on iMke Leeehy Feb. 1806. SiH, AS a proprietor of the N. W. company, and director of the Zond du Lac departtnenr, I conceive it my duty as an officer of the United States, (in whose territoiy you are) to address you sdlely on the subject of the many houses under your instructions. As a mem- ber of the greatest commercial nation in the world, and a company long renowned for their extent of connections and greatness of views, you cannot be ignorant of the rigor of the laws of the duties of .inh ports of a foreign power. Mr. Jay's treaty, it is true, gave the right of trade with the sava- ges to British subjects in the United States territories, but by no means exempted them from paying the>duties, obtaining licen- ces, and subscribing unto all the rules and restrictions of our laws. I find your establishments at every suitable place along the whole extent of tb*;: south side of Lake Superior to its head, from thente to the suuri;c of the Mississippi, and down Red River, and even extending to the centre of our newly acquired territbry of Louisiana) | in which it will probably yet become a qaestion between the two j governments, if our treaties will authorise the British subjects to j enter into the Indian trade on the same footing, as in the other parts of our frontiers; this not having been an integral part of the United States, at the time of said treaty. Our traders to the south, on the I Lower Mississippi, complain to our government, with justice, thati the members of the N. VV. company, encircle them on the frontienl of our N. W. territory, and trade with the savages upon saperiorl terms, to whut they can afTorcl, who pay the duties of their goodil imported fium Europe, and subscribe to the regulations pre8cHbeJ| by law. ■ • These representations have at length attracted the attention d our government to the object in question, and with an intention tod themselves as well as citizens justice, they the last year took sonxj steps to ascertain the facts, and make provision against the growiii evil. With this, some geographical, and also local objects in viei was I dispatched with discretionary orders, with a party of troopso^ the source of the Mississi|)pi. I have found, sir, your commeit and establishments, extending beyond our most exaggerated ide and in addition to the injury done our revenue, by the evasion of tl duties, other acts which are more'particularly injurious to the hoiA APPENDIX TO PART I. 14 tnddi^ty of our goveroment. The transactions aJlitdsd to* aro the presenting medaU of his Britannic majesty, and ^agji of the said . government, to ths chiefs and warriors resident in the territory of the United States. If ^lolitical subjects are strictly prohibited \» our tiadet s, ^/hat would be the ideas of the executive to see foreign- ers makir if' chiefs, and distributing fiags, the standard uf an-Eunn pean power. The savages being accustomed to look on that stand- ard, which had been the only prevailing one for years, as that wliich; alone has authority in the coun*ry, it would not be in tlie least aston- ishing to see them revolt from the United States, limited subjec- «bn which is claimed over them by the American government, and thereby be the cause of their receiving a chastisement : although Decessary* yet unfortunate as they have been led astray by.: the policy of the traders of your country. I must likewise observe, sir, that your establishments, if pro- perly known, would be looked on with an eye of dissatisfaction by our government, for another reason, viz. there being so many fur- nished posts in case of a rupture between the two powers, the Eng- lish government would not fail to make use of those as places of deposit of arms, ammunition, Sec. to be distributed to the savages who joined their arms ; to the great annoyance of out* territory, and the loss of the Uvea of nuiny of our citizens. Your flags, sir, when hoisted in inclosed works, are in direct contradiction of the laws of natipns, and their practice in like cases, which only,admits of fo- reign flags being expanded on board of vessels, and at the residence of Ambassadors, or consuls. I am not ignorant of the necessity of Qn'the fronUenH your being in such a position as to protect you from the sallies of upon supcrioiHthe drunken savages, or the more deliberate plans of the intended \ f (heir goodil plunderer ; and under those considerations, have 1 4:onsidered your 8ctil>ei| stockades. You, and the company of which you are a member, must be [conscious from the foregoing statement that strict justice would de- and, and I assure you that the law directs, under, similar circum- stances, a total confiscation of your property, personal imprisonment ind fines. But having discretionary instructions and no reason to ink the above conduct was dictated through ill will or disrespect our government, and conceiving it in some degree departing m the character of an officer, to embrace the first opportunity of ec^ting those laws, I am willing to sacrifice my prospect of pri- te advantage, conscious that the government look not to interest, it its dignity in the transaction,' I have therefore to request of you, fe6. 1806. ^rector ofthe officer of the you sdleiy on As » mem- nd a company tnesaofvie^Si 5 duties of lim- ; with the saw- itories, but by obtaining Uccn- ,on8of ourlav^s. along the whole .ad, from thente River, and even tbry of Louisiana, between thet^o iritish subjects to 'in the other parts I part of the United the south, on the I with justice, m lUes ulations pre •ted the attention iih an intention to last year took 8oi«i| against the gro«w| local objects in viej a party of troops* sir, youv ,st exagger by the evasion comtnw ;ated idei of^ ,.. ■ i m injurious to the Im 16 APPENDIX TO PART I. Miuninces on the following heads, which setting aside the chieanerf of law« as a gentlenton, you will strictly adhere to : viz.— That you will make representations to your agents, at your head quarters, on Lake Superior, of the quantity of goods wanted the ensuing spring, for yonr establishments in the territory of the Uni>. ted States, in time sufficient, or as early as possible, for them to en- ter them at the C. H. of Michilimackinac, and obtain a clearance and licence to trade in due form. 3d. That you will give immediate instruction to all your pests in said territory, under your direction, at no time and on no pMtence whatever to hoist, or suffer to be hoisted, the English flag. li||«li^ conceive a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United States, which ia the only one which can be admitted. 3d. That you will on no further occasion, present a flag or me- dal to an Indian : hold councils with them on political subjects, or others foreign from that of trade : but on being applied toon those heads, refer them to the American agents, fhforming them t\;f.. they are the only persons authorised to hold councils of a poUtictt nature with them. There are many other subjects, such as the distribution of lt> quor, Src. which would be too lengthy to be treated of in detail. But the company will do well to furnish themselves with our lawi^ regulating the commerce with the savages, and regulate themselves in our territories accordingly. I embrace this opportunity, to ac< knowledge myself and command under singular obligations to your- selves and agents, for the assistance which you have rendered us, and the polite treatment with which I have been honored. With sentiments of high respect, for the establishment and yourself. I am, sir, Your obedient servant, > Z. M. Pike. Hugh MfGillia^ Eaq. Proprietor and agent of the N. W. company, established at Zond Du Lac. % n M APPENDIX TO PART t If chleuierf your held ranted the if the Ui*' hem to en- saranceand \ your pOtts no pMtence Rag. ^|W' f the United a flag or roe- 1 Bubject», or ed to on thotc Ing them d? lof »poV\ti'aa itribution of ti- sd of in detail , with our law»> late themselves .ortunity, to ac- gttUona to your, ive rendered us, lonored. Wit^ nd yourself. .. M. Pike. [ No. 6. ] Leech Lake^ 15 /A February^ 1806. YOUR addrcas presented on the 6th inat. has attracted mjf most serious consideration to the several objects of duties on impor* itttlonS) of presents made to, and our consultations vvith Indians ; of enclosing our stores and dwelling houses, and finally, of the custom obtainlRg to hdlst the British flag on the territory belonging to the ''UMlli States of America. 1 shall at as early a period a» possible present the agents of the N. W. Company **ith your representations regarding tl)e paying duties on the importation of goods to be bent to our establishments within the bounds of the territory of the Uni< ted States, as also their being entered' at the custom house of Mi* chiliinackinnc, but I beg to be allowed to present for coniiidercition) that the major part ottho goods necessary to be sent to the said es- tablishments for the trade of the ensuing winter, are now actuuliy in our stores at Kamanitiguia, our head quarters on Lake Superior, und that it would cause us vast expense and trouble to be obliged to convey those goods back to Michilimackinac to be entered at the custom house office ; we therefore pray that the word of gentlemen wiUi regard to the quantity and quality of the said goo I ,.„.ed force ready to p ote ^^^^ ^^^^'^''^J of alMll .■ \ ■<•■. APPENDIX TO PART I. liirnal, antf will ever be preserved in the Rimaliof the N. W. Com- itny. Were it solely from th<; vunsutcraiions of iho»c who have ex* poBcd their lives in a long; and po ,ui iiiiirch through a country} where they had every distress to sufTcr, and m^ny (lungi rsi to expect (and this with a view to establish peace in a savage country,) w« should think ourselves under the most strict obli^ttion to ussist them ; but we know we are in a ouniry where hoHpitulity and gra> tltude arc to be considered above every other virtue, and therefore have offered for their relief what our poor nicunH can allow : and* eir. p^i'init me to embrace the opportunityi to testify that I feel my- self hiKhly honored by your acceptance of such accommodations as my huml)le roof cuuld afford. With ^reat cunsiderution and hi^h respect for the government of the United States, allow me to express my esteem and regard for you. I am, sir, Your obedient humble servant, (Signed) H. M'Gillis, Of N. W. Company. JJeut. Pikcy * . : , ' 1st. Hcgt. United States infantry. aci ,1 among VIS, V ,s, prefers the hoi ,,,etvan8'acUonst.l ^hen we behoWi ess\ty or PO^^<=y ^^,e to that pool huppmess of aU,ty ,e\v domuln not e^ „er -and hardsbn^^ [ No. r. ] . ^ A SPEECH DELIVERED TO THE SAVTEAUX IN A COUNCIL, JlT lEECH LAKS^ 16tU FEBRUARY, 1806. Brothers — A few months since the Spaniards shut up the I mouth of the Mi^bissippi, and prevented the Americans from float- ling down it to the sea. This your father, the president of the United jStates would not admit of. He, therefore, took such measures as to [open the river, and remove the Spaniards from both sides of the ^lissisiiippi to a great distance, on the other side of the Missouri, itid to open the roivd from the ocean of the east to that of the west. lie Americans being then at peace with all the world, your great [ather, the president of the United States, begah to look round on lis red children, in order to see what he could do to render them [appy and sensible of his protection. For thui purpose he sent two If his captain-i, Lewis and Clark up the Missouri) to puss on to the b mi * 10 APPENDIX TO PART I. west sea, in order to see all his new children, tojjo round the world that way and return by water. They stayed the first winter at the Maiidane's villajje, where you might have heard of them. This year your great father directed his great war chief general WiU kinson) at St. Louis, to send out a number of his young warriors up the Missouri. Illinois, Osage river, and other courses, to learn the situation of his red clnldi'cn, to encourage the good, punish the bad, and make peace beiwien ti.em all, by persuading them to layby the hatchet, and follow them to St. Louis, where the great war chief will open their ears, that they may hear the truth, and their eyes, t* see what is ri^ht. Brothers — I was chosen to ascend the Mississippi^ to bear to his red children the words of their father ; and the Great SfiiritYan opened the eyes and ears of all the nations that I have passed, ts listen to my words. I'he Sauks and Reynards are planting corn and raising cattle. The VVinebagos continue peaceable, as usual, and even the Sioux have laid by the hatchet at my request. Yes, mj brothers, the Sioux^ who have so long and so obstinately waged war against the Chipeways, have agreed* to fay by the hatchet, smoke the calumet, and become again your brothers, as they were woot to be. Brothers— You behold the pipe of Wabasha, as a proof of what I say. The Little Corbeau, Jills De Pinchow, and the L'Aile Rouge had marched 250 warriors to revenge the blood of tiieir J women and children, slain last year at the St. Peters. I sent a run- ner after them, stopped their march, and met them in council at the mouth of St. Peters, where they promised to remain peaceable j until my return ; and if the Ouchipawah chiefs accompanied me to receive them as brothers, and to accompany us to St. Louis, there! to bury the hatchet and smoke the pipe in the presence of our great] war chief; and to request him to punish those who first broke the] peace. i Brothers — 1 5ent flags and a message up the St. Peters i the bands of Sioux on that river, requesting them to remain quieti and not to go to war. The peop'e of the Leaves received my mew sage, and sent jnc word that they would obey ; but the YsAictongi and Sussitongs had left the St. Peters previous to my message arrir-j ing, and did not receive it. But when I left my fort they had ap pointed a day for 50 of their chiefs and warriors to come and s me, b>' '' could not wait for them ; so that, as to their dispositioi for pea. or war, I cannot answer i^sitiv^-'y. 1 APPENDIX TO PART I. Brothers— I have thp- r '* mete wuhwme, had peoDle »h! * '^ '"-P°"'Wy « mteht w. will die ,„g,,^„,,^°^';''°™j.^^^ "■""t. u. their room. °""" *»" '!>= American govern! BROTHERS Traf?»«, k ^"? «i. .hey have done iTil'tt'' T'"' •''"'" ' »" i» Plumed b„„ur fath.„, wI,oha,e haf.';. "•" ""''e«« chiefi, «»« you -« under considerabirobitV"'''- B^'t.he^me - "p.x-^Sr^£f?:prpS;ro--! ™.l...- «,d your .„der„ r„'h.";ar7 '" ■"" """"^ ">™ ^on, t ■>"-" -^ yo" TZl'^Z'°6 """*"' '"'"•» °f "" o™ l*Mren, ,ho will p^^^^ ^^ J"»"« don. ,„ hi, „ji,, J r«"« "> "•• color of ,hZZ *""* P«»«l.n>e„,, „ie|,o„, khra keep ,o-.«nd him wl e"2 ' "■" '»"«'<'>« is faroff- h" he here I would hToW ;^:: "«:" "^y '•e-of him morf: muug men shoo, him. Mytl ^^J? "■"" '"^°°' ""f ™k« f Wood i may the Grea. SpiriUee„ T /''"""'' "■<' y« =1=^ , B«OTHEl,s~Weexn. • f^ '"""' ' KPe,era= yo„r chie^^'h'; *;™';'""-o>'-»" .0 come ,o pk them, or «,me trader. „ho «,!" ' "'»'' ''">'" "™e up t bJot "o «"'"' «»ner. They may male •""pSTyX''™;^:'^;';;' ^°f ^ .h.. .he mm ,i,h „hich you If r SI APPENDIX TO PART I. from amongst you. But I have found the traders here with a great deal of rum on hand ; I have, therefore, given them permission to sell what they have, that you may forget it by degrees, ag&inst next year, when none will be suifcred to come in the country. 1 1^, .J '\ " fi t II ANSWERS • F SEVEIIAL INDIAN CHIEFS MADE TO AN ADDRESS FROM LIEVTE- HANT PIKE, AT LEECH LAKE, 16th FEBRUARY, 18Q6;' I at. Sucre of Red Lake (Wiscouji). My FATHER— I have heard and undurstood the words of our great father. It overjoys me to sec yyu make peace among us. I should have ucconi[)unicd you had my family been present, and would have gone to see my father, the great war chief 1 This medal I hold in my hand 1 received from the, English chiefs. I willingly deliver il up to you. \yabaslia's c^ilumet, with which I am presented, I receive wiih all my heart. Be assured j that I will use my best endeavors to ^oe^x my young men, quiet. I Tliere is n)y calumet, I send it to my father the great war chief, i What docs it signify that I should go to see him. Will not my pipe answer the same purpose ? •, . .. ■ My father — You will meet wiih the Sioux on your return.! You may make them sraoke in my pipe, and tell them that I Imej let fall my hatchet. My father — Tell the Sioux on the upper part of the riveij St. Peters that they mark trees with the figure of a calumet ; thai we of Red lake who may go that way, should we see them, thatwij may make peace with them, being assured of their pacific disposil tion when we shall sec the calumet marked on the trees. 2d. The chief de la Terre qf Leech lake (Obigouitte). ■ My father — I am glad to hear that we and the Sioux aij now brothers, peace being made between us. If I hav^ received) medal from the English traders, it was not as a mark of rank distinction, as I coiiddered it, but merely because I made i hunts and payed my debts. Had the Sucro been able to go aiv our father, the great war chief I should have accompanied him " Mrj f " f ols a| r ^ ''"pel ■••efusair to iidml ''" into 'c paid Pec(s acil 11 APPENDIX TO PART I. I am dcterminpri ♦« . ^-^ 3rf. 77;e Geuelle Plntt^ ^ r F" W arrived, ,„d L. t, ' '"' ".'«" »"" J"/. "I.e., I he rd U,« -• I have sen, m,«l„^e.,oa, ^^™"""™'''"»P■■"' ■»hem from a«embli„g, ^uI^TT' """"'" "="• '<> ?■•=- ^un already ,o prepay ,„^;:;J ^^'J " •""= are „,a„, „,,„ ,!^.,^ »f n>y uncle here presen. hIT ' "'"' ''°'' """' 'h' niedal "Wsasarecon,pe„,efo hif!*"' ■^""=1 "''«>"> the KnXh -*' here, i. is a. „y;„'^\«7,''".7- A» for „e, I haven' n». medal «s given meZ ,hl V 7" ''"«*"y deliver i, " ■-•»» of something ,,,, ™tV.;J"tr*"' "™ ° ""^" - Mr,r::iT-"-'^'°»v::'e'""'^^''-"' -^^ "-■ f ' »i" preserve pe^l^^hTl' h,"" '"" "^^ ^"''«'" '" ">y «rd *;<1 ".. S„„„ come and e ' ? ""^ '?"" ' """■ ■"« "» hke "P my halche, ; bu, should!. '° ""' "">'= ' "uld not "-'»«Mi.npmyha.rr;X7-->^-.ea seJd' -irj [ No. 9. ] ^ ^ '-Pe on a moment "Jfle; J"'' '"^ ^ -^ -cans .i„i, tf t -^--' ; for what couM . e ^ J 'J"" ' ";'"" '^^ J"-'- " ^;" .^clmit you to send goods ^//'l/ T'' "^ "'i'^'^^^'^ th.n for ;" '"to the su„,ec,uarterrot!r? 'T"'^^''* '"'- the counuy. ['^ paid their dutie, re,u,aWv ' ' '•' ""''^^ -'" '"en who h^^^^tcdconfonnabi/t r Th"''.'"^"'^-^' ""'' '" "ther 34 'APPENDIX TO PART I. tice-— What ! Lt. Pike not content with luffering the laws to slum, ber, when it was bis duty to have executed them— has now suffered the N. W. company's agents to come even here to violate them, and injure the citizens of the United States ; certainly he must be cor- rupted to admit this. << This, sir, would be the natural conclusion of all persons." [ No. 10. ] ■%"■ Cofiy of a letter to a trader^ on the aubject ofaelling apirituout Uquort to Indtaru. > 11 I ' fW Grand lik, Upper MIsiunppi, 9th April, x8o6. Mr. La J^knessb, ^ Sir, . BEING informed that you have arrived here with an intention ,.of selling spirituous liquors to the savages of this quarter, together with other merchandize under yOur charge. I beg leave to inform | you. thai, the making sale of spirituous liquors on the Indian terri' tories to any savages .whatsoever, is contrary to a law of the United] States for regulating the trade witJi the savages ; and presenriD;] peace on the frontiers. And that, notwithstanding the custom huf ^hitherto obtained on the Upper Mississippi, no person whatsoever! has authority therefor; and as the practice may have a tendency t occasion broils and dissentions amongst the savages, and therel; .occasion bloodshed, and an infraction of the good understandiij which now (through my endeavors) so happily exists. I havs(ij •your particular request) addressed you this note in writing, inlbn Ing you that in case of an it^fraction^ I shall conceive it my dutyiij an officer of the United States, to prosecute according to thej ^and fienaltiea of the law. I am, sir, • With all due consideration. Your obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, Lt. 4 f I .' f APPENDIX TO PART [No. 11. J I. 25 ng tpirituow Ugum CabokU, eXrkf fo';^, ^^" ^e hour, »<, „ „,. 1 pushed forward h„ o , ,, """"""^ >>' my episije •"»k«! Lake De Sable = ^ °^''' "'* "« "ge^.^ . rather was ™iu 1 '' "''"'"' '" Si. LouisT?., ' *"'«' '"> "*e" a, ui „■",:« rr'™^' "-"'"mSde„;:r"' **• »™ced r„„„i„g'7«° '°f Pl-e, and .he ice *n,edk.e. "'°°"'' "Imostany partv J a ^ "''°"* '''^"y say) as m«« u ? ^''^ ;«* expanded on some ve7y 1'" . ^^ ^'^^ ^"^^^ ^ag rwhL^ J'o that of the rTn» lo^ ^P^'^^'^'e positional l,o >' ^^™ch l*ave the faith , T^ ^''"'' ^^^rever ^e na, ^ J t^^''"" P'*'^^ joaccompjish M-ithout the loss ^r^^""^^ ^ ^«ve been happy enoii«.h hHoa, the latter of w, o^^"! "? ^"'' *'"»">»"C f .l»«™e here las, a„,u„„ L ' . "*" ""•" ">«" ^ince H «xp=c.atio„ of „t,ai„,"" j,'^' ™'"-''''«™ ' »h.ll *m.„d, «„" P."<1 expect to have them Ihh ^ " "^ ' '""' "«"« '""-s mak- h»»lence of the savageain 'hi? "" "'?' '"""■ Indeed, sir H™mcdia.ce>,.„,p|i;;j,^ =^;;"" . unbounded, an Z'. ,T, ii APPENDIX TO PART I. My p.«y ha. b«n '«-"; "; ' ;^,; „f „„, Bag, or die in th.«. "■"I"- 1 .h.. n.v voyage «n be producUve of much 1 pwume, eenetal, that '»'' 'J *f „>„„ ,» our govemmew, new matter, useful and """,!"'"? '"J^^o, . «,ldier ot fortune. Xugh detailed In the ""P"''*'"" ^ ^T eOO n,He. above here^ on The river broke up at my SW'^'"*' ^ f„ ^oats onl„ on th. „„ T h instant, and Lake Peptn «« P«»f '^^ ^,„ .,„» in m, de- Uth. Thus you may P""'"' "!' ^^ v„,m the Ume it «U1 tak. ! „t, leaving all the ^^'"'"^^^^.^f the v.ter, I calcuh,. ,„ make n., '''^S'"""'"''' the 4th ot May : and hope ■», „„ arriving.. *' ""^ h :.o°hing but the „>o,t in.urmou,.t.U. •'""rtud'^r.e-Lon.ent. obstacles shall detain nic . lam, dear sir, With gf eat considevalion, :*^ Your obedient servant, . " Z. M. Pike, U. (Signed; . u rr^noral aeainst attendiuR to , N. B. 1 beg leave to eautton the gee-l;^^^^^ .h. reportsof .nyindi«du.l.. a.^^-^^^^^^ ^^^.\ mMt unbounded prejudice, and P«r Y I ""*""• . (Signed) '"■ :>?5? Bl* ' [No. 12. J A SPEECH ^ . OKMYEEEO T« THE PUANTS, AT THE ''Td here St autumn, I requested] BKOTHEKS-When 1 1^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,,, , a J see you on my return. 1 am P^e ^^^^ ^^^^ ^j ,n| words. i^»^-p^'^":t '^^^^^^^^ ^°'';rj :X:r1e:::t:S -— betwee. t.o or the^ enough to ^i"---^^*;^:t 'ou o..ing last autun., en the canoes, in ^--;^> .f^;,^^,'^^ ,Uting peaceably in Wi httve kUled a man on Rock river, m APPENDIX TO PART I. 27 4- die in the ai- :uve ot much r goveromeni, .f of fovWM. above berc^o" ^is only, on the time it v»i« take ater, I c*^*^"^^^' . and \iope my inaurmo lUnVAble .a\nst aUendmRi- thiscountry.astbel pevvade almost gel p. IK DBS CBVIN», t« KuhaveUs.ened ' en the ears of aU .attend to the .0* ItweeYit^oof thci nation have bee« t:ot content >vuU*i' Ling last autunva, Lpeaceablymh«« Also— they have more recently murdered a young man near this place, without any provocation whatever. As an officer of the Uni* ted States, it is my duty to demand the murderers ; and / do now demand them. ' Brothers — In this action I am not influenced or urged by any individual of this place, or the people generally : no more than, as it is my duty to give all our citizens all the protection in my power. I will not deceive you. If the prisoners are delivered to me, I shall put them in iron»^ under my guards i and in all instances treat them as men guilty of a capital crime ; and on their atrval below, they will be tried for their lives, and if it be proved they have killed the people without provocation, in all probability they will he put to itath. If on the contrary, it is proved that the whites were the ag- gressors, and it was only seif defence, it will be deemed justifiable, and they will be sent back to their nation. It becomes you to consider well, if in case of a refusal, you are sufficiently powerful to protect those men against the^wer of the United States — who has always since the treaty of 1795, treated all the savages as their children ; but if obliged to march troops to punish the many murders committed on their citizens ; then the in- nocent will suffer with the guilty. My demand will be reported in candor and truth be]ow<~when the general will take such steps as he may deem proper. But I hope for the sake of your innocent women and children, you will do us and yourselves justice. I was directed to invite a few chiefs down widi me to St. Louis. Many of different bands are about to descend with me. I now give an invitation to two or three of your principal men, to descend with me. Whatever are your determinations, I pledge the faith of a soldier^ for a safe conduct back to your nation. At present, I am not instructed to act by force, to procure tho«e men — therefore, you will consider yourselves as aqting without res- traint, and under free deliberations. They replied — ^" That they thanked me for the generous and ' candid manner in which I had explained myself, and that they would give me an answer to-morrow." 2\8t Afiril. — The Puants met me in council, agreeably to pro- ise, and Karamone, their chief, addressed me and said—" They had come' to reply to my demand of yesterd \y. He requested that I, with the traders would listen." A soldier, then called the Lit- |f Thundery arose and said — " The chiefs were for giving up the murderer present ; but, that it was the opinion of the soldiers, that they should themselves ti.ke him with the others to their father 1^: . i* •J*- ii9 APPEKDIX TO i»ART t f ] ) llf ' t.]ir'i. nn <( Butt that if I prefered their taking one down now, they would « do it ; but, if on the contrary, I expected all three, they would « immediately depart in pursuit of the others, and bring them alto- " gether to their father. That if he did not bring tnem, he would (( delivei' himself up to the Americans." I replied-^** He must not ** attempt to deceive, that I had before told him that I was not an* •< thoribed to seize their men by force of arms ; but, that I wished <* to kiiuw explicitly, the time when we might expect them ut St. " Louis, in order that our general should know what steps to take ** in case they did not arrive. That the consequence of a non-com* « ptiance would be serious to themselves and their children. Also, '( that they had recently hoisted a British flag near this place, which, « had I have been here, I should have prevented. I advised tbem " to bring their British flags and medals down to St. Louis, to de< « liver them up, and receive others in exchange." Their reply was, ** in ten days to the Prairie, and from thence to St Louis, in ten " days more.'* t\ Held a council with the Sioux, in which the chiefs of the Y^nc* tongs, Sussitongp, Sioux, of the head of the De Moyen, and part of the Oens Du Lac was present. W abasha first spoke, in answer to my speech, wherein I recapitulated the conduct of the Sauteurs— ^their desire and willingness for peace— their arrangements for next sum* iher— the pipes they had sent. Sec. Also, the wish of the general for some of the chiefs to descend below. Recommended the situa- tion and grM)d intentions of the young chiefs at the mouth of the St. Peters, to the others ; and that they should give them assistance to keep the bad men in awe. They all acquiesced in the peace with the Sauteurs, but said ^enferally, that they doubted their bad faith ; as they had experienceii it many a time. The Nez Corbeau said he had been accused ofj being hired to kill Mr. Dixon, which he here solemnly denied everj having been instigated to any such action. The J\innere Rouge, then arose and sB^A^^ealouiy was in a grei measure, the principal cause of his descending. That if ever any tn der had any cause to complain of him, that, now let him do it publici] That last year an officer went up the Missouri--gave flags and mcdi •M.made chiefs, and played the devil and all. That this year the liqui was restricted to the Indians on the Louisiana side, and permitu on this. Ije wished to know the reason of those arrangements, ■cntx.ki I replied, that the officer who ascended the Missouri, tnl Havijl tuthorised by their father ; and that to make chiefs of them, {ifous murl APPENDIX TO PART I. •» they would g ihem a^to* ,„, be vouW He mutt not L v»« not fttt* hat I w»*^** ct them ftt St. X atep5 to taVe of ft non-com* hUdren. A\», is place, which, 1 adviacd them it. LoulB, to de- Their reply was, St Louis, in ten .iefsofthe^nc. ^en,ft«dpftVtoUhe , in answer to wy ^ le Sauteurs— theit Icntsfornextsum. iahofthe general! ^.n^endedthesuua- ^etnouthoftheSt, themfts^awuceto .Saute«rs,butMi4 Lyhadexperiencti Ld been accused (< Lemnly denied e«>] LoM6ywaain*8«i That if ever any tvj hethimdoitpubUdJ LaveflagsandH ,?attbisyearthehqj a side, and perm^i^l lose arrangcmenw. \a the Missouri, ,e chiefs of th<^^'' was what I now invited them down. But that fof the liquor, it was too long an explanation to give them here ; but that it would be ex* plained to them below— and that in a very abort time the liquor would be restricted on both aidet of the river. The Puanta in the evening, came to the houtCi and Macra* ragah, alias the Merchant, spoke— >l'hat last aprtng he had em- barked to go down to St. Louis ; but, that at De Buques, the Rey- nards g-ive back. That when he saw me last autumn, he gave me his hand without shame ; but, that since it had pleased the father of life to cover them with shame— thatnow they felt themselves miserable. But implored me to present their ^aga and medaU to the general, as a proof of their good intentions } and that when I arrived at St. Louis, to assure the general they were not far behind. (The chiefs and the soldiers would follow with the murderers ; but begged I would make their road clear, Sec. Sec.) Delivered his pipe and flag. Karamone then npoke (with apparent difficulty), assured of the shame, disgrace and'tlistress of their nation, that hA would fulfil vhat the others had said ; and that he seat by me the medal of his fother, which he considered himself as no longer worthy to wear (putting it round my neck trembling), and begged me to intercede with the general in their favor, &c. Sec. I assured him that the American nation was a generous nation^ not confounding the innocent with the guilty ; that when they had delivered up the three or four dogs who had covered them with blood, we would again look on them as our children ; to take cou- rage, that, if they did well they should be treated well ; that I would tell the general every thing relative to ilie affair; also, their repentance, and determination to deliver themselves and the mur^ derers, and explain about their flags and medals. [ No. 13. 3 ^tiee to Messrs. Camfihell and Fisher^ for takins^ depositions against the murderers qf the Puant nation. * Prairie des Chiens, aoth April, i8o6. |EKTLKMEV, Having demanded of the Puants the authors of the late atro- pus murders ; and understanding that it is their intentions to deli* im iUiJi. . m ■i5i:l Y\ II i 1 m ^1 fe, ifM MJH St APPENDIX TO PART I. ver them to me, I have to request of yon, as mafi^Htrates of thi« territory, that you will now have all the depositions of those facts taken, which it is in your power to procure ; and, if, at any future period previous to the final decisions of their fate, further proofs can be obtained, that you will have them properly authenticated and for- warded to Ids excellency general Wilkinson. I am, gentlemen, With respect, ^ . Your obedient servant, (Signed) 2. M. Pike, Lt. [ No. U. ] Fcrt St. Louit, 26th May, IS06. DEAn Sir, I I had hitherto detained the medals and flags, intending to have presented them to you at the final conclusion of my vouchers, on the subject of my correspondence with the savages. But in order that the general might know of whom I had obtained medals and flags, I gave him a ihemorandum when I handed in my vouchers on the subject of the N. W. company. But I have thought proper to send them by the bearer, marked , with the names of th< chiefs from whom I detained them. I also send you a pipe and beaver robe of the Tonnere Rouge, I ■s they are the handsomest of any which I received on the whole! route. I have several other pipes, two sacks, and one robe ; but as I they bore no particular message, I conceived the general would lookl on it as a matter of no consequence ; and indeed, none except the] Sauteurs were accompanied by a talk, but just served as the emi blem of the good will of the moment. I likewise send the skinsf of the Lynx and Brelaw, as the general may have an opportunity toj forward them. Some gentlemen have promised me a male for my dog : if I obtain him, the pair, or the single one with the f.leigh, is at the gcj neral's service to be transmitted to the states as we had determinej on. I mentioned in my memorandums the engagements I waj Under relative to the flags or medals, and should any early commij nications be made with that country, I hope the subject may not li forgotten. I have labelled each article, with the name ©f thoj APPENDIX TO PART I. Ml those facts any fuwre er proofs can ;aied and for- rat/, 1806. intemVmKtohavf ,ny vouchers, on ,e5. But in order ;«inccl wedals and in my vouchers on ^l,e bearer, marked I ,ei\ them. ,eTonnere Rouge. eWedonthewWel \a one robe ; b«'. ^\ general wouWiai Pd, none except tht| tservedastheein. ,Ue send the staJ ive an opportunity iJ Le for my dog -.« I t f.leigh, is at the sej L we had determind 1 engagements 1 «^ L\ any early coH L subject may not 1 the name •» tno from whom I obtained them— «lso, the names of the diflercnt 1 am, sir, With esteem and high consideralten, Your obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. PiKK,Lt. Omeral Jamea Wilkttuon. [My faith was pledged to the savage chiefs for th:: replacing of the medals and flags of the British government, which they surren* dered me, by others of the same magnitude of the United States ; but owing to the change of agents, and a variety of circumstances, it was never fulfilled. This has lefl a number of the Sioux and Suuteur chiefs without their distinguishing marks of dignity, and has induced them to look on my conduct toward them as a premedi- tated fraud, and would render my life in danger, should I ever return amongst them, and the situation of any other officer who should pre- sume to make a similar demand e^^vemely delicate ; besides it has compromitted tlie faith of our government with those .savage war- riors, which, to enable ai: ' government ever to do good, should be lield inviolate.] ' [ No. 15. ] Bilie/ofitainej 2d July, 1 806. Dear Sir, I have at length finished all my reports, observations, and jour- Inals, which arose from my late voyage to the source of the Missis- sippi, and hope they may prove interesting, from the information, on |difi'erent subjects, which they contain. I perceive that I differ materially from capt. Lewis, in my ac- jcount of the numbers, manners, and murals of the Siuux. But our jreception by that nation (at the first interview) being so diflcrent, it K' doubt left an impression on our minds, which may have (unknown |o i urselvcs) given a cast to our observations ; but I will not only jouch for the authenticity of my account as to numbers, arms, kc. [roni my own notes, but from having had Uiem revised and cor- ected by a gentlenmn of liberal education, tvho has resided eighteen jears in that nation, speaks their language, and for some years past ^1 l\ ¥ ^ .1 y i'M m' , tl 5hI St APPENDIX TO PART I. has been collecting materiali for their natural and phtlotophical history. I have not attempted to give an account of nations of Indians whom I did not visit except the Mtinnibointy who, from their intU mate connection with the Sioux (in a lineal point of view) it would have been improper to have left out of the cutaloo^ue. The correctness of the geographical parts of the voyage I will vouch for, as I spared neither time, fatigue, nor danger, tu sec my. self every part connected with my immediate route. I'he general already knows, at the time I left St. Louis, there were no instruments proper for celestial observations (excepting those which he furnished me, which were inadcquute to tuking the longitude) ; neither had I the proper tables nor authors to accom* plinh that object, but it can no doubt be ascertained, by various charts, at different points of my route ; neitlier had I proper time-pieces nor instruments for meteorological observations. Those made were from an imperfect instrument I purchased in the town of St. Louis, I do not possess the qualifications of the naturalist, and even had they been mine, it would have been impossible to have gratified them to any great extent, as we passed with rapidity over the coun- 1 try we surveyed, which was covered with snow six months out of j the nine I was absent. And indeed, my thoughts were too much i engrossed in making provisions for the exigencies of the murrow,to attempt a science which requires time and a placidity of mind whicii [ seldom fell to my lot. The journal in itself will have little to strike the imagination,^ but a dull detuil of cur daily march, and containing many notesi which should have come into the geographic it part ; others, of dA servations on the savage character, and many that were never in- tended to have been included m my ofiicial report. The daily occuircnces were written at night, frequently by fireJ light, when extremely fatigued, and the cold so severe as to tVeezi the ink in my pen, of course have little claim to elegance of expresj sion or style ; but th>ey have truth to recommend them, which, always attended to, would strip the pages of manyof our journalistSi'ming ti of iheir most interesting occurrences. The general will please tWave tni rccoilect also, that I had scarcely t-eturned to St. Louis, before tWl') frienl voyage now in contemplation »4$ proposed to me, and after sonWi shoujj considera 4<»n, my duty (and inclination in some respects) induceBi life. me to utxie-.rtake it. m e«emy| '\t: (*parauons for my new voyage prevented the possibiliWmustpi of raj f^*\ uig that attention to the correction of my errors, ths pontiadid Intfr APPENDIX TO PART I. ts ,ntt of Indian* am ihelrinu- /lew) " would iUe the imaginauonj ,,ining tnauy noWl ,^,,t; others, of 0.1 kit vrere ncvct k'frcquentVybyfirt- severe UB to tree" elegance of exprei »end thein, vrhich, aT,yofourjovmwW .eneral v^Ul pleuse 1 St. Louis, before ^e, and after SOI spects) uiduci kne real ,ented the poi of my ssibil errors, llVi' should otherwise have done. ThU, with the foregoing; reasMt, will, I hope, be deemed a sufficient apology for the numerous errorti tau.- tolugies and egotisms which will appear. I am, dear general, With great respect, Your obedient servanti (Signed) Z. M. Pikk, Lt. 1st. Regt. Infty. Generai Jamet WUieinton, [ No. 16. ] Initructiona delivtred to tergeant Hmry Kfimermany at Piite creek rafiidtj Oct. 1, 1801.* YOU are to remain here with the party under your command} subject to the following instructions : viz. — Your guards to consist of one non-commissioned oiBcer and three privates, yourself mount- ing in regular rotation, making one centinel by day and by night ; ami, until your position is inclosed by pickets, every man is to be employed on that object ; after which Sparks is to be employed in hunting : but this will by no means excuse him from his tour of guard at night when in the stockade ; but he must be relieved dur- ing the day by another man. Should any Indians visit you previous to having your works complete, divide your men between til* two block houses, and on no |tonditions suffer a savage to enter iiM» the one where the stores re, and not more than one or two «.fto the other : but should you be fortunate as not to be discovervd until your works are (completed) m may admit three, without arms, and no more, to enter at once— the same time always treating tkem with as much friendship as is insistent with your own safety. You are furnished with some tobacco to present them with ; t on no condition do you ever give them one drop of liquor, in- rming them I have taken it all with me. From the arrangements ave made with the Sioux it is presumable they will treat you ith friendship ; but the Chipeways may be disposed to hostilities, I should you ever be attacked, calculate on surrendering with life. Instruct your men not to fire at random, nor ever, unless enemy is near enough to make him a fioint blank shot This mii ^t particularly attend to, and punish the first man found acting oniradiction thereto.- The greatest economy must be used with i FH? . It "^ \i Hi I m ^ 3ft APPENDIX TO PART I. T«>, which hi. ■ keen eighteen ;e;«T.l?,":,°' ""'"" '"" '"f"™ ut^l k"" ^ch Lake, Red Lake, &c IT""'''' " ''"'* '^^'^^ ''^ S«We I goods for Red River rif ;! • . ^' ^^- ' am aJso of nn.v- ' Jin preference to beli ''"'^^" °"'- boundary) ^ol^i"'""' *^'« tLatthe charterof tL Tr''°"^^"^- ^^ i'wo; ' of '"^' ;p«ifiec. Which': ',t7e:"r'' "<»'"'=""- .hr^oXt"^!'' W^f .he iat. of .,, ;;;^^/- -.1. of .he „e« iine.'^™!" h«:sX;tr:in:;"t:n;'»"' •» p-- -..ir .«■<.. ,o,„ pckinac J but I gave thL ? ^^ ""^^ ^^^ traders of Mj!km- •»«I>..PP.. 5 on the N. and is 10 6 feet by 5' A»you iC story 40 fcjt square, ;, on the left of the E. 1 entering the W. gate in your left, a building and provision-store. I picketed in ; in which in^ no other vegetable, intain the potatoes, but f goods, /'cc. :h lake, in February^ ^0i6'i3"N.lat. It i» iving an enclosed garden 150 feat, the pickets k' d, and arc bound togetho :t are likewise drove into srtures between the large ;rced for fire arras. 6ofeetbya5. li-»"'"7 of the Fond du Lac dt- d kitchen, with an offi«. a bed-room in the rear by ?,o, under which thcrt iiolc building, and contaim bushels of wild rice. B* irts of the building. Tk Thefirtce of e-oodg in ^^^t. J Sooas tn exchange v>ith the Indians nf ti ■ '""'»» fif this quarter, vi~. B^kcta,3and,x.,p„i„,^,^^ "?"" » ditto, . Ditto T T , A.. * i-a ditto, Blue strouds, per fathom. Scarlet cloth, 8-6 J^orsted binding, p,r piece* . ' vermillioii, per pound, Jfolten blue and white, pe; fathom, Gu jpowder, per half pint, ^ "». 30 per . ^ 5«ot of all sorts, per handful. * I Tobacco, per carrot, . I Twist tobacco, per fathom, |B«ver traps, each, . IHalfaxes, . ^ ' JCastites, If- W. Guns, each, iiives. plus 4 % • I 4' • 6 4 4 2 X X I 4 I 4 % I 10 Z Dtlhru 8 4 a 8 li 8 8 4 a a ■ a 8 4 a ao 2 Wampum aad silver wort. ♦!, • ' ' ^ ^ ' '"* *» »h» prime cwt. "^' " "'«'« two hundred and fifty <3eo. Anberson. >t* \ i ijf. 1 P' '' I-' r r 5 1 ! ., 1 '^*' ' \ t t 1 1 1 r m 40 APPENDIX TO PART I. E. ( Bttum of men tmftloyrd in the M W. comfiany*s deftattment t^f Jtond j du Lac, with the amount qf their tvaget fter annum, Ifc. IS° Women and chil- '.8 * at Jren belonging to theeanbUBhment. /s& . ^J s • . tt g.« s S •3 Accooi and m rpretcr interpr t • i i|.a ^ 1 h o 3 19 a is 109 19 SO 79 tarn «f the wages per annum of the a'ove 109 men, ATcrage wages of each man, . . Due by the N. W. company, . - . . Due to ditto, . - • ' • * ' FOR 1805. *3i9i3il«wej. 586! 1 39,566 8 • 34.336 16 N. B. The above women are all Indian)), there not being » sin^ -rhite w» I man N. W. of Lake Superior. SO" Fror fnediatd pat a 'small McalJc Ffiftec APPENDIX TO PART I. «i icing »*»»t [ No. 18. ] OBSERVATIONS ) -'iisif OK THE SOIL, BH0RB8, qVAKRIKS, TtMBBK^ IBLAXDSt EAPIDSi COM* VLUENT STREAMS, HIGHLANDS, PIIaIRIES ; THE SAVAGES AND SETTLEMENTS WHICH I MET WITH ON MY VOYAGE W THE MIS* SISSIPNy rROM S^. LOUIS TO ITS SOURCE. From St. Louis to the mouth of the Mir.«ouii oi. the east, is a rich sanay soil, timbered with buttonwood, ash, cottonwood, back- beny, Iccr The wettt side is highlands for a small distance above the town; then it is bordered by a small prairie, after which is bottom landiwith the samfe tithber as on the east. The current is rapid, and the navigation, in low water, obstructed by sand bars. Immediatel/ on the peninsula formed bythe conflue c« of the rivers Mississippi and Missouri is a small Kickapoo settle int, oc* cupied in summer only. On the west shore a rich prairie, with I imall skirts of woods ; and on the east shore is generally high hills^ I iiom eighty to one hundred feet, extending to the moutili of the Illi* lois. The current of the Mississippi, above the entrance of the I Missouri is quite mild, until you arrive at the mouth of the Illinois ; I where, owing to the large sand-^bars and many islands, it is rendered jextremely rapid. The Illinois river is about four hundred and fifty ds wide at its mouth, and bears from the Mbsissippi N. 75^ W. The current appears not to exceed two and a half miles per hour. The' navigation and connecting' streams of this river are too well sown to require a description at the present day. From the Illinois )the Buffalo river the £. shore is hills, but of easy ascent. Oh W. is continued the prairie, but not always bordering on the irer. Timber, on both sides, geutsrally hackberpy, cottonwood, and |h. The BuiTalo river comes in on the W. shore, and appears to s about 100 yards wide at its mouth. It bears from the Mississippi 30° W. From the Illinois to this river the navigation is by no IS difficult, and the current mild. From thence to Salt river (or Oahahah) the east shor6 is either [mediately bounded by beautiful cedar cliffs, or the ridges may be )n at a distance. On the W. shore there is a rich, low soil, and I small rivers which increase the waters of the Mississippi. The It I called Bar rivery about twenty yards in width. The second is |ut fifteen vards. Salt river bears from the Mississippi N. 75" 6 rt,, {I ' i ':i!r, ft Hi h-. Mi ''Is. I 43 APPENDIX TO PART I. I 'i W. and is about 100 or 120 yards wide at its entrance, and, when I passed, appeared to be perfectly mild, with scarcely any current. About one day's sail up the river there are salt springs, which lutve been worked for four years ; but I am not informed as to their qua- lities or productions. In this distance the navigation of the Missis, sippi is yef7 ^uch obstrycted by burs and islands.; indeed, to such a degrae (^s tP' render it di^icult to 6nd (in niuny places) the proper channel. The shores are jjenerally a sandy soil, tir^ibcrcd with su- gar maple, ash, pecan, (oCMSt, and black walnut. The E. side has generally the preference as to situations for building. From this to the river Jaustibni (vrliich is our boundary between the Sac nation and the United States, on the west side of the Mississippi) we have the hills on the W. shore, and low lands on the £. the latter of which ia timbered with hickoryi oak, ash^ maple, pecan, &c. The former the aaine, with >an increase of oak. The £. is a rich sandy soil, and has many very eligible situations for cultivation. About seven miles below the JaUstioni a Frenchman is settled on the W. shore. He is married to a woman of the Sac nation, and lives by a little cultivation and the Indian trade. The river befoi^ mentioned is about GO yards wide at its mouth, and bears from the Mississippi about S.W. In this pait of tine river the navigation is good. li'rom this to the Wyaconda river the navigation is easy, with very few impediments; and thfe soil on both sides pretty good. U'his river. pays its tvibute^to the Mississippi by a mouth 100 yai-dsj wide, and bears from the latter ncaiiy due W. Just below its en- tnihce is a small strcain 15 yards wide, which discharges itself into] the Mississippi. Between this river and the river de Moyen, tiiere| isjone small liver eiriptying itself into the Mississippi, on the W. of] about 55 yards tin width, and bears S. by W. The first part of tb distance is obstructed by islands, and the river expands itself to i gtfcat. width, scj as to render ther navigation extremely difficult; bu the latterpart ull'urds mord watevt and is less difBcult. i he tiiub i& prin«ijpally oak and |)vcau» The soil as the river below; fori des(:ri{Hip(^ of (le Moyn^n bee thfi ch^rt herewith, and for that U)e j'apiiV»i*>y djary of the 20t^ o^f August. Above the rapid de Moyei^ on the VV. bank of the Mississippj is. Httuutpd the lirst Sac visage, consisting of I S lodges ; and imr diattly (»ppr)site is the establishment of Mr. £liwhig, the Americ agent at. thatl^lac^. From whence to -4 large prairie on the E. sii^ on )(Chitjh is iiilUated. Uie second Sac village, the E. side ofi river b.heauiiful laud, uut principally prairie. The W. is in soil |iart high lund> both Mdes tintbered with oak, asli, &c.- The navia ar of for( Mrch Men on Imerous [mines, torn ti APPENDIX TO PART I. 4d and, "Mhm I any cuvveirt. J, vhkb \»ve ^ lo iheir quu- of ibc Mis»w- deed, io such a ceO the proper A\,cTedWttV»»^- [be £• w'^*.^** , Trom vWw lo nth«iS»c »*"'*'' kc. The former iVboutBevenmilM .W. shore. »e» vaUtt\eculu*«*« :di8ahouiB0y«r» S.NV. l» P» about ,\\des pretty go^- L a mouth \00y^' ^l 3ustbe\o>v»«*"- ,,,U.arges itself^ 'I'hc first part ot« ,expa«a^i«ft vemely difficult ;. ' ,^ river below -.for ,>.Ub. and for that tion is by no means tlifficult. From thence to the Iowa river the na- vitiation is much obstructed with islands. * The Iowa river bears from the Mississippi S. W. and is 150 yards wide at its mouth. Th« £. shore of the Mississippi is high prairie, with yellow clay banl&i» and in some places red si^nd. On the W. shore is prairie, also, but bounded on the shore by skirts of woods. About 10 miles up the Iowa river, on its right bunk, is a village of the low^s. From this place to Rock river,t we generally had beautiful prairies on the W. but in some places very rich land, with black walnut and hickory timber. Stony river is a large river which emp- ties into the Mississippi on the £. shore, and is about SOO yards wide at its moutli. It bears from the Mississippi almost due £. About three miles up this river, on the S. bank, is situated the third town of the Sac nation, which (I was informed by a Mr. James Aird) was burnt in the year 1781 or 3, by about 300 Americans, although the Indians had assembled 700 warriors to give' them bat- tle. For a description of the rapids of Stony river, see my diary of the 28th August;! A little above the rapids of Rock river, on the W. side of the Mississippi, is situated the first Reynard village : itjconsists of about 18 lodges. From this place to the lead mines the Mississippi evi^ dently becomes narrower ; but the navigation is thereby rendered much less difficult. The shores are generally prairie, which, if not Immediately bordering .on the river, can be seen through the wkirts of forests which border the river. The timber is generally maple,, birch and oak, and the soil very excellent. To this place ive had leen only a few turkies and deer, the latter of which are pretty nu- imerous from the river de Moyen up. For a description of the lead jmines, see my report from the prairie des Chiens, of the Sth Sept.d lom the lead mines unto Turkey river, the Mississippi conti« itii't '.5 f! yiV ^UoftUeMUs«*»W V 3 lodges; and uu V,.my;, the An,ev. ^ieontheb.a"! * In ascending Iowa river 36 miles you come to a fork, the right branch of jrhich ii called Red Cedar river (from the quantity of that wood on it* banks'), ^ch is navigable for batteaux near 300 miles, where it branches out into three prks, called the Turkey's foot. I'hose forks shortly after lose themselves in RicC' t Rock river takes its source near Green bay of Lake Michigan more than ko miles from its mouth, and is navigable upwards of 300 miles. \ Between the Iowa river and Turkey river, on the W. you find the Wabisi* lebn river. It coasts alung the Red Cedar river in a parallel direction, and Ircelf any wood on its banks. The next water met with was the Great Maco> nruU'i- - ^ f tM"""' — ■' """*• "" ."M-«r^-. ..... ..»•-» ..-..w. ....... ....... .•— i..b '«jic». r |i»c the t' ** . ^h,and ao leagues higher is the little river of the same name. These two rivers The ^V . i^ ^^^ ^ .V*'' '*> approach each other, and have nothing remarkable excepting lead mines, I . 5^,, _. The na^'Bich are taiJ to be in their banks. I' ** * ■ 1 See Appendix to part I. [No. a.] page ». . •u. , .•if H.hl ! * The voyage from MiehUImackinac to the PraiHe det Chiens, by the Onii* oousing and Fox rivers is as fellows :— vw. The distance between MiiJulunackinac and the settlement at the bottom of Oreen bay is calculated to be 80 leagues. On leaving Michilimackinac there i* t traverse of five miles to point St. Ignace, which is the entrance into Lake Michi- gan. Four leagues from Michilimackinac is an island of considerable extent, named St. Helens, and may be seen from that place in a dear day. The shore from Michilimackinac to the Point du Chene, which is a league distant from the iiland, is rocky ; and from this to the island of Epouvette, which ii a very small one, and stands near the banks of the like, it high and covered with pine— the soil very ba> ran. Fsom t'liU island to the river Mino Cockien is five leagues. Two small itlindi on the way, and a river where boats and canoes may take shelter from a storm. The 1 fiver Mino Cockien is large and deep, and takes its rise near Lake Superior. From this to Shouchoir is ten leagues. The shore is dangerous, from the number of ihnb I that extend a great way into the lake. This rock, called Shouchoir, is an exceUut [ harbor for canoes, but its entrance, when the wind blows from the lake, is difficult;] but when once in, canoes and boats may lay during any storms without unladiog. A custom prevails here among the voyagers for every one to have his name carredl «n the rocks the first time he passes, and pay something to the canoe*men. Franl this to the river Manistiqne is five leagues ; it is a large river. The entrance i difiicult, from a sand-bank at its mouth, and the waves are very high when 1 wind blows from the lake. At certain seasons is found here sturgeon in nnmbers. The bank:* of this river are high and sandy, covered with pine. takes its rise from a Lirge lake, and nearly communicates with Lake Superior. Fn this to the Detoui' is ten leagues; The diore is rocky, flat, and dangerous, begins the Traveite at the mouth of Green bay. The first island is distant : the main land about a league, and is called the Isle an Detour, and is at least I leagues in circuitifiirence There are generally a few Sauteaux lodges of Indiimd this island during the summer rionths. ?rom this to Isle Brule is three leagi There are tWo small islands from these to Isle Verte, and two leagues to Illcj Pou, called so from the Poutowatomiea having once a vilbge here, but now ah doned. In the months of May and June there is a fiidiery of trout, and thqi taken in great quantities by trolling. And there are also white fish in vast si hers. The ship tbanntl is between this island and Isle Verte. From thcnce| Petit D'Etroit to the main land is three leagues, where some lodges of Ottowai^ Santeaux raise small quantities of corn; but their Subsistence, during the tm APPENDIX TO PART I. 45 productions the "W. bears ,\t, i» the third ficient corn to of the Prairie .WghhlUsarc erth^ river the is nearly h*if a Chlent,bytheChib. 3,1 at the bottom rf ,^tAix»^ there i»i nee into LaheMidu. ,d«r*Weexte«t,i.m.d ,- The Aote bom I l-rtunt from the idand, , a very ««»«•«•*"* ,;„.— thewii^en^ aterfroma*orm.Th^ - Lake superior. ft«« „.n the number of 40^ .omthelake.«-hffiA ^orm. without unW«>g{ ,ohavehi.««nc^i ^canoe-men. ?to>n| I; titer, l-heentrtttei .are very high when*- here .turgeon m r .covered with pine. ,ith Lake superior, rt. L,anddangeroui. " Lour, and i. at U«^ Leau«lodge.onn<^^ PdcBruici. three »e.^ land two league, to 1* vUVagehere.but«ow^ Very of trout, and thei Jv,hiteh*inv3j.«^ Prom tnewi lofOtiova* le Verte. Ume lodge* |\'cr is the grand aource.or communtcation between the lakes and the Mississippi, and the route by whicli all the traders of Michili* mitckinac convey their goods, for the trude of the Mississippi, from St. Louis to the river de Corbeau, and the conOuent streams which montht, chiefly depend* upon the quantitie* of sturgeon and other fith, with which the lake here abounds. From Petit D'Etroit to the main land is three leagues, and ii called the Port de Mort, from a number of Reynard canoes having been wrecked at thiii place, where every one perished. The shore i* hold and rocky. From this ii four leagues to the Lit Racro, which is a safe harbor, inaccessible to all winds. From this to Sturgeon bay is eight leagues. The shore is bold and rocky, and se- reral large islands lie a few miles distant. A few Sauteaux families raise corn here and reside daring the summer season. Trout and sturgeon are here in great nam- b«s. Sturgeon's bay is two miles across and about four leagues in length, andf communicaties by a portage with Lake Michigan, near Michilimackinac. Distant from the lake about two leagues is the Isle Vermillion. Here were, a few yean ago, a number of Fola Avoin inhabitants, who were accustomed to raise corn ; but irom what reasons they have left this place 1 cannot learn. Fronf this is thirteen leagues to the entrance of the Fox river. On leaving Isle Vermillion, the wood* and general appearance of the country begins to change, and has a very dificreat aipect from the more northern parts of this lake. A small river called Riviere Rouge falls into the lake, about half way between Isle Vermillion and La Bayet On approaching La Baye, the water of the latter assumes a whiter appearance, and becomes less deep. A channel which winds a good deal may be found for Kiiels of 50 and 60 tons burden ; and loaded vessels of these dimensions have gune up the Fox river to the French settlement, opposite to which is the Fols Aroin village, which consists of ten or twelve bark lodges. A great number of Sauteaux, and some Ottowas, come here in Vhc spring and fall. Three leagues from La Baye is a small village of the same nation, and another three leagues higher, at the portage of KakaUn. This portage is a mile long : the ground even and rocky. There is a fall of about tea feet, which obstructs the navigation for thrte leagues higher, and almost continual rapids until the fall of Grand Konimee. About five feet high, above this, the river opens into a small lake, at the end of which is a strong rapid, called Puant's rapid, which issues from a lake of that name. Tiiis lake is ten leagues long, and from two to three wide. At irs entrance ij the first Puant village, of ten or twelve lodges. At the upper end of the lake is another Puant village, of about the same number of lodges, and at this end is a small river, which, with the interval of a few portages communicates with rock river. About midway between the two Puant villages is a Fols .\voin village, on the south side ef the lake, of 50 or 60 men. Five leagues from the entrance of tiie lake, on the north side, the Fox river falls in, and is about zoo yards wide. x\scending two leagues higher, is a small Fols Avoin village, where is a lake of more than two leagues long ; and about a league above this lake the river de Lonp joins the Fox iver.near a hill called the But de Mort, where the Fox nation were nearly extir- inatcd by the French and confederate Indians. The rivers and lakes are, at cer< lain seasons, full of wild rice. The country on the borders of this river is finely iversified with woods and ptairies. Any quantity of hay may be made, and is a? e a country for raising stock as any in the same latitude through all America. hi i!^" \i t!l 46 APPENDIX TO PAR r I. m •re in those tioundHrica. * The villag;e of the Pruii ie do Chlcns k Mtuated aljout one leHgne above the mouth of the Ouiscoiisinf; river. On the E. banic of the river there is « small pond or marsh which nms parallel to the river in the rear of the town, which, in front of the marsh, consists of 18 dwelling-houiies, in two streets; 16 in Fmnt«street, and 3 in First-street. In the rear of the pond are 8 dwelling-houses : part of the houses are framed, and in place of vreatherboardint;^, there are small logs let into mortises made iu the uprights, joined close, daubed on the outside with clay, and hand. tomely white-washed within. The inside furniture of their houses Trem the But ie Mort to the Lac a Puckway ii twenty-eight Icsguet. Here ii another Puant Tillage of leven or eight large ledgci. This take it three league* long: four league* above it Lac du Bauf begins, which it alio four leagues long, and i( full of wild rice, and a great many fowls in their season. From Lac da Bcmf to the fork*, which is five leagues from the portage of the OutKouilng, and ten leagues above the forks is a very small lake, called Lac Faiiuit, and is so choaked with wild rice at to render it almost impassable- The river, although very wind- ing, becomes here more and more seqientine on approaching the portage, aid the river narrows so much as almost to prevent the use of oars. The length of the portage to the Ouiscousing ia two miles, and when the waters are high, canoes and boats loaded past over. Here the waters at that time separate, the one part goipg to the gulph of Mesicn, and the other to that of St. Lawrence. In wet seasoiii the portage road is very bad, the soil being of a swampy nature. There ii for nearly half way a kind of natural canal, which is sometimes used, and I think i canal between the two rivers might be easily cut. The expense at present attend- ing the transport is one third of a dollar per hundred weight ; for a canoe five doj- ]art, and a boat eight dollars but this is not cash, but in goods, at the rate of loo per cent on the sterling. There ate at present two white men, who have establish- ments there ; but they are much incommoded by the Puants of the Rock river, • who are troublesome visitors. The Ouiscousing is a large river, its bottom sandj, full of islands and sand-bars during the summer season. The navigation is difficult even for canoes, owing tp the lowness of the water. From the portage to its con- fluence with the Mississippi is 6o leagues. The Suques and Reynards former!) lived on its hanks, but were drove oflT by the Sauteaux. I'hey were accustomed to raise a great deal of corn and beans, the soil being excellent. Opposite to the Detour de Pin, half way from the Portage, on the south side, are lead mines, saiil to be the best in any part of the country, and may be wrought with great eate. I Boats of more than four tons are improper for the communication between the] Mississippi and Michilimackinac. [DiViit/i.] • The present village of the Prairie des Cbiens, was first settled in the year! I7R.% and the first settlers were Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. Dubuque. ThJ old village is about a nule below the present one, and had existed during the timtl the French were possessed of the country. It derives its name from a family ofl Reynards who formerly lived there, distinguished by the appellation of Dogs. Thcj present village was settled under the English government, and the ground \n purcliased from the Reynard Indians. \n Cvoni oC el»-, ^^ >" pond af* * in p^"*^** '^ ^, and V»am). theiv Iwuse* .»gu«.- «««■'• .U three le»gtte» otttle»g«»'"°K' From Uc dm .'ooiKouMng.w* »ndw»o choake4 APPENDIX TO PAKT I. I» is decent, and indeed, in those of tlie most wealthy displnyt a degree of elt'Kuucc nnd taste. 'liieic ui'u eight liouses scattered round the country, ut the dis- tance uf uno, two, three and five miles i ulso, on the W. side of ihc MiskkittHippi, three houses, situated on a small stream culled the '.fiurds river, mukinq;, in the village and vicinity, 37 houses, which it will nut be too much tu calculate at H) persons each, the popuhi- tioit would be 370 souls ; but this calculation will not answer for the i\mu\i or autumn, us there are then, at least 5 or 600 white persons. This is owinj; to. the concourse of traders and their engagees from Miciiiliniackinuc and other parts, who make this their last stage, pre- vious to their launching into the savage wilderness. They again meet here in the spring, on their return frara their wintering grounds, accompanied by S or 4U0 Indians, when they hold a Jitir / the one disposes of remnants of goods, and the others reserved pel- tiics. It is astoiiibhing there are not more murders and aHVays at this place, us there meets such an lieterogeneous mass to ti'ude ; the U!ie of spirituous liquors being in no manner restricted ; but since the American government has become known, such accidents are much less frequent than formerly. The prairie on which the vil- lage is situated is bounded in the rear by high bald hills. It is fix>m fine mile to three quarters of a mile from the river, and extends ilxtut eight miles from the Mississippi, to where it strikes the Ou- kousing at the J^atit Grey, wliicli bears from the village S. L. byE. If the marsh before spoken of was drained (which might be easily done), I um of the opinioit it would render the situation of the pruirie hculthy, which now subjects its inhabitants to intermit- BDg fevers in Jte spring and autumn. There ard a few gentlemen residing at the Prairie des Chicn i.. wd many others claiming that appellation ; but the rivalship of the iladian ti'ude, occasions them to be guilty of acts at their wintering ivunds, which they would blush to be thought guilty of in die ci> ilized world. They possess the spirit of generosity a'' d hospi- lity in an eminent degree ; but this is the leading feature in the elm- fatter of frontier inhabitants. Their mode of living had obliged liein to have transient connexion with the Indian women ; and what first settled in t e 'Bias at first fiolicy is now so confirmed by habit and inclination, that nd Mr. . u-timtB's become (with a few exceptions) the ruling practice of all tlic existed «ri ^^^^^j^ „(la,ie,.s j ^nd, in fact, almost one half of the inhabitants under 'JO '*"*'"*. r ooffs. 11>««'»''» have the blood of the aborigines in their veins. From tlic ppeUatiou of Dogs 'w b t, though very ^">J- ,e portage, ""it^e The length ofthe ,rehigh.c»«oe.an'i ■ the one part gowg „ce. m *'««»«'« .,ture. Thereisfor .used, and Ubnkt ^ at present attend- f„r a canoe five do}- :a..,t the rate oMo. ,„,^hohavcestab\.»h. ..of the Rock ''^' Uer.Ushottomundy, e navigation udifficuU ^dReynardHformcTi, hey-ercaccustcc^ Mt. opposite to the 4c. are lead mines. W ought with great c.«. unication between the H ,-if I ^ '* I the ground milage to Lake Pepin wc huve, ©n the W. shore, firsi Yellow rive»'» J i 1; m 48 APPENDIX TO PART I. < 111 ,i .1 .* of about 20 yards wide, bearing^ from the Misussippi nearly due W. second, the Iowa river, about 100 yards wide, beating from the Mis- sissippi about N. W. third, the Racine river, about 20 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi nearly W. and navigable for canoes 60 miles ; fourth, the rivers Embarra and Lean Claire, which join their waters just as they form a confluence with the Mississippi, and are about 60 yards wide, and bear nearly S. W. On the E. shore, in the same distance, is the river de la Prairie la Cross, which empties into the Mississippi, at the head of the prairie of. that name. It is about SO yards wide, and bears N. N. W. We then meet with the Black river, a very considerable stream about 200 yards wide at its mouth, on which the traders frequently winter with the Puanta and Fola Avoina. Next pass the river of the Montaigne qui Tromfies done VEau^ a s!T.alI stream in the rear of the hill of that name ; and then we find tl>e Riviere au Boeuf, of about 30 yards wide, bearing N. by W. and, at the entrance of Lake Pepih, on the E. shore joins the Sauteaux river, which is at least half a mile wide, and appears to be a deep and majestic stream. It bekrs from the Mississippi nearly due N. This river is in size and course (some distance up) scarcely to be distinguished from the Ouiscousitig, and has a communication with the Montreal river by a short portage, and by this liver with Luke Superior. The agents of the N. W. company supply the Ids Avoin Sauteaux, who reside at, the head of this river, and those of Michilimackinac) the Sioux who hunt on its lower waters. In this division of the Mississippi the shores are more than three-fourths prairie on both &ides, or, more properly speaking, bald hills, which, instead of running parallel with the river, form a conti- nual succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low vallies : tbej I appear to head on the river, and to traverse the country In an angular direction. Those hills and vall:«s give rise to some of the most | sublime and romantic views I ever saw. But this irregular see- nery is sometimes interrupted by a wide extended plain, whiclil brings to mind the verdant lawn of civilized life, and would almostl induce the traveller to imagine himself in the centre of a highly! cultivated plantation. The timber of this division is generally bircbj elm and cottonwood, all the cliffs being bordered by cedar. The navigation unto the Iowa river is good ; but from thencej to the Sauteaux river is very much obstructed by islands; andiif ^ome places the Mississippi is uncommonly wide, ^nd divided intor^sippj many small channels, wliich trom the clifts appear like so many dis#*'*s'Ppi| linct rivers, winding in a parallel course through the same imp' '"® vd APPENDIX TO PART h 49 mense valley. But there are few sand-bars in those narrow chan- nels : the soil being rich, the water cuts through it with facility. La Montaigne qui froinpe dans I'Eau stands in the Mississippi near the E. shore, about 50 miles below the Sauteaux river, and is about two miles in circumference, with an elevation of two hundred feet, covered with timber. There is a small river which empties into the Mississippi, in the reur of the mountain, which, I conceive, once bounded the mountain on the lower side, and the Mississippi on the upper, when the mountain was joined to the main by a neck of prairie low ground, which in time was worn away by the spring freshes of the Mississippi ; and thus formed an island of this cele- brated mountain. Lake Pepin so called by the tVench,) appears to be only an expansion of the Mississippi. It commences at the entrance of the Sauteaux river, and bears N. 55 W. to Point de Sable 1 3 miles, which is a neck of land making out about one mile into the lake from the W. shore, and is the narrowest part of the lal^e. From here to the upper end the course is nearly due W. about 10 miles, making its whole length 22 miles, and from four to one and a half miles in width, the broadest part being in. the bay below Point de Sable, i'his is a beautiful place ; the contrast of the Mississippi full of islands, and the lake with not one in its whole extent, gives more force to the grandeur of the scene. The French, under the government of M. Fronienac, drove the Reynards (or Ottaquanties) from the Ouiscousing, and pursued them up the Mis- sissippi, and, as a barrier, built a stockade on Lake Pepin* on the iW.^hore, just below Point de Sable; and, as was generally th.e case ith that nation, blended the military and mercantile professions, by aidng their fort a factory for the Sioux. The lake, at the upper i, is three fatltoms deep ; but this, I am informed, is its shoalest rt. From the Iowa river to the head of Lake Pepin, the elk are leprevedling species of wild game, with some deer, and a few bear.- From the head of Lake Pepin about 12 miles to the Cannon |ver, the Mississippi is branched out into many channels, and its iom covered with numerous islands. There is a hill on the W. re, about six miles above the lake called the Grange, from the mit of which you have one of the most delightful prospects in ure. When turning your face to the E. you ha\e the river wind- .„ „^ - in three channels at your feet ; on your right the extensive od ; but ivotti , jBom of the lake, bounded by its chain of hills, in front over the led by islands*, a fcsissippi, a wide ' extended prairie ; on the left t'u valley of the ,ide,^i^'^*^^^ , Jsissippi, open to view quite to the St. Cioix, and partly inyvour eav ii^® *° many j^ ^^^ valley through which passes the Riviere aii Canon ; and rough the same • iriy due W. amtheMis- yavds wu\e, ior canoes 60 ., which join tssissipP^'*'^* ,rde la Prairie e head of the ,eavsN.N.W. ^derable stream ,acrs frequently the river of the „ the rear of the l«uf,ofabout30 . of ^^'^ ^®P ' \s at least hatf» „rt» It heirs stream. *»• ^uished from the Lntrealriverbya ,„- The agents ot ,v who reside ckinac, the Si««x „esare«ior«^^ha« Uyspeaking^b^^ , river, form a conu. L loWvaUies:tby ouutrymanangv^ some of the most this irregular see- .ended plain, «1^^^; fe%nd.vouldaln.oj recentreofahigW sd by cedar m 50 APPENDIX TO PART I. when I viewed it, on one of the islands below, appeared the spotted lodges of the Red Wing's band of Sioux. The white tents of the traders and my soldiers, and three flags of the United States wav- ing on the water, which gave a contrast to the still and lifeless wiU dernesB around, and increased the pleasure of the prospect. l-'rom the Cannon river to the St. Croix, the Mississippi evidently becomes narrower, and the navigation less obstructed by islands. The St. Croix river joins the Mississippi on the E. and bears from the latter almost due N. It is only 80 yards wide at its mouth, and 500 yards up commences Lake St. Croix, which is from one and a half to three miles wide, and 36 long. This river communicates with Lake Superior by the Burnt river, by a portage of half a mile only, and in its whole extent has not one fall or rapid worthy of no> tice. This, with the mildness of its current, and its other advan. tages, render it by far the most preferable communication which can be had with the N. W. from this part of our territories. Its upper j waters are inhabited by the Fols Avoins and Sauteaux, who are sup- plied by the agents of the north west company ; and its lowei' divi- sion by the Sioux and their traders. The Mississippi from the Cannon river is bounded on the L\ by high ridges, but the left is low ground. The timber is generally] ash and maple, except the cedar of the cliffs. From the St. troixf to the river St. Peters the Mississippi is collected into a narrow compass (I crossed it at one place with forty strokes of my oarsjl and the navigation very good. The E. bank generally bounded by tha river ridges, but the W. sometimes timbered bottom or prairie. Tit timber is generally maple, sugar-tree, and ash. About twenty milej below the entrance of the river St. Peters, on the E. shore, at] place called the Grand Murais, is situated the Petit Corbeau's 4 lage of eleven log houses. For a description of the river St. Peterj see the chart herewith. From the river St. Peters to the falls of S Anthony, the river is contracted between high hills, and is onecoj tinual rapici or fall, the bottom being covered with rocks which { low water) are some feet above the surface, leaving narrow ch nels between them. The rapidity of the current is likewise m^ augmented by the numerous small rocky islands, which obstn the navigation. The shores have many large and beautiful sprid issuing forth, which form small cascades as they tumble over} cliH's into the Mississippi. The timber is generally maple, place we noted for the great quantity of wild fowl. As I asceni the Mississippi, the falls of St. Anthony did not strike mei that majestic appearance which I had been taught to expect I Wi n. APPENDIX TO PAHT I. 51 d the spotted 5 tent* of the i States wftv- idUfelesswUr aspect. isippievWenUy ctedbyis\a^^ds. and bears £vom t its movith, and I from one and a ■v cointnunicates gcofUfamUc ,/,idvortbyofno. J Us other advwv nicationwbichm iiories. Its upper I eaux,whoare^ , anditsloN»evdivi. ^ bounded on the U. e timber is ge'^J"^!^ VromtheSt.H ected into a nam' ,irokesofinyo.n: the description of former travellers. On an actual survey, I find the portage to be 260 poles; but when the river is not very low, boats ascending may be put in 3 1 pole below, at a large cedar trec^ which would reduce it to 229 poies. The hill over which the por- tage is made, is 69 feet ascent, with an elevation at the point of debarkation of 45**. The fall of the water between the place of debarkation and re-loading is 58 feet ; the perpendicular fail of the shoot 16 1-2 feet. The width of the river above the shoot 627 yards ; below 209. For the form of the shoot, see a rough draught here- with. In high water, the appearance is much more sublime, as the great quantity of water then forms a spray, which in clear weather I'eflects from some positions the colors of the rainbow, and when the sky is o'ercast, cover the falls in gloom and chaotic ma- jesty. From the Falls of St. Anthony to Rum river, the Mississippi is almost one continual chain of rapids, with the eddies formk.d by winding channels. Both sides are prairie, and scarcely any timber but small groves of scrub oak. Rum river is about 50 yards wide I tt its mouth, and takes its sAirce 1.) Le Mille Lac, '.vhich is but 1 35 miles S. of Lower Red Cedar Lake. The small Indian canoes ascend this river quite to the lake, which is considered as one of lihetiest fur hunting grounds for some hundreds of miles ; and has [been long a scene of rencounters between the hunting parties of the Isioux and Sauteaux. The last winter a number of the Fols Avoins 1 Sioux, and som&. Sauteaux, wintered in that quarter. From i-aUy bo^J*^^®*^^^ ^Rum river to Leaf river, (called by father Hennipin and Carver, the lottomorpvairicTJ" About twenty iwl( ontheE.Bhore,«t . Petit Corbeausr of the river St. Pew: leterstotbefaUso? bb\\l«,a«disone. v,ith rocks which leaving nai^'^^'=' trent is likewise" iver St. Francis, and was the extent of their travels) the prairies tinue with a few interruptions. The timber scrub oak, with w and then a lonely pine. Previous to your arrival at Leaf river, lu pass Crow river on the W. about 30 yards wide, which bears im the Mississippi S. \V. Leaf river is only a small stream of It more than 15 yards over, and bears N. by W. The elk begin to be very plenty ; some bu(falo, quantities of r, racoons, and on the prairie a few of the animals called by the nch brelaws. From thence to Sac river, a little above the Grand Rapids, both lands, which 0"*"Besof the river are generally prairie, with skirts of scrub oak. and beautiful *P^'Me navigation still obstructed with ripples, but with some intermia- II of a few miles. At the Grand Rapids the river expands itself to about 3-4 of a lein width, (its general width not being more than 3-5 of a mile) tumbles over an unequal bed of rocks for about two ntilest ugh winch there cannot be said to be any chaim%l : for notwitU- ;e las „tbey tumble over, enerally «^»T?*'* ^„ id fowl. Asl'^^c" did not strike tn u taught to exP«^^' APPENblX TO PART I. s' " „,„„. of my invalid., who TO on r^W shore «aded'0.Vb^ («^"« ^„, W . ..rubb, wood tanJ The S»c river .s » ';™»»7* ,a, v.de at it. mouth Te W «"' """ """'^' ;u^t«arg from the Sae riv.rto Pin. * The,uanti,yof game... — ,„., ,.ftpartof n,, creek, fthe place vhere !»""'"» „„,e. of pine on the edge o ;.n^h. larder, .re r.*_-.;';^,,^;,fcer.,o„n,.etw^ the bank , but there .re --»"«^„. ,„ *!. distance there .. .» bottom, of oak. ""••""'■''•."^.Tmiles, when the, eommeace t^missionof t-pil'.fe-- »'^;' *° "Ther.arethree.mril creeks . A .™ full a. difficult as ever. ^ j^^ t. are ,gai.., and a.e tuU a ^^^^^^^ °J. '^ Jformer quiw a emptymg ..^ on the v, ^_^ ^j^^_. ^„ , ^e lo ^ Zrc:^^,-" *^»^ ''ru.'be:S:i:mt« UKe, arou. abo^l ;«« from its entrance, »^' ^^j..^. clear river ».l ' t^clresort immense herd.of«''^;U,h,a„aheads.n«.n,. —: 'srri-»-/-r:r;rt:or:aiJ.mai.g^^^ ^a e. from above the fal s » ^^Y^ ^^ ,,„p. P.„e ere. I'""L„! the bottoms rich, and htlor ^ „d bears nearly Tat'l tveam .hich comestn on *« V^ sh^ , ^^^ ^^^ |j:e:iretM&tusX:^^^^^^^ from its communicaucnwuhthe m ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^.^,^ J ^- tn a small lak^» ^^^o**^*' ^ ? , ^ortace of four tmlel r; 4" ^ ™from which ^'J^^-'^UhC^escend in» J W and fall "■» ">= TTside on" .ma,l stream wh ch H Tver St. Peters. On the L. ^- ^^^ .^ ^„„,ed by ht, • J towards Lower Red p'^".^yy difficult « "»"«""' i""„^J Ihole of this distance is '^'«^^J ^^ (,,„ , but there s o« « • ,-r\ miccession of rapw »no*" . The nlace called by i« Cr. .rbrmore particularly 7" ^JULh itcrtainl, .1. X : h LC Shute de la Roche P^T^e. .W. in my whole J , «acle in point of navigation, ".''."■" V i„„d succession olrf who was on ,cTubby wood comes in on L its tnouth. ; vivertoPine eft part of my jn the edge of ^eet with small nee tbere is an ^ey cotnTncnce •ee small creeks ndontheE.ave B former quite* de atitsmout^' .all late, around Clear river 19 a and heads in wtni Lower Red Cedat The soil of Ac :'aise small g«i^i» ne, and bears neatly ,d red pine. From hat name) two small little consequence;] n^ore consideralb, ters. Tbeyfivsu. a small stream t( ktage of four mid APPENDIX TO PART I. 53 N. 65", W. the upper due W. This (in my opinion) should be termed the Forks of the Mississippi, it being nearly of equal magnitude, And heading not far from the same source ; although taking a much more direct course to their junction. It may be observed en the chart, that, from St. Louis to this place, the course of the river had generally been N. to the W. and, that from here it bore N. E. This river uffords the best and most approved communication vvith tho Red river ; and the navigation is as follows : You ascend the river De Corbeau 180 miles, to the entrance oi the river Des Feuilles, which comes from the N. W. This you ascend 1 80 miles also ; then make a portage of half a mile into the Otter Tail Lake, which is a principal rource of Red river. The other branch of the river De Curlieau bears S W. and approximates with the St. Peters. The whole of this river is rapid, and by no means affording so much water as the Mississippi. Their confluence is in latitude 45° 49' 50" N. In this division the elk, deer, andbufTalo, were probably in greater quantises than in any other part of my whole voyage. From thence to Pine river the Mississippi continues to become nari'ower, and has but few islands. In this distance I discovered but one rapid, which the force of the frost had not entirely covered with ice. The shores in general presented a dreary prospect of high barren nobs, covered with dead and fallen pine timber. To this there were soihe excep- tions of ridges of yellow and pitch pine ; also some small bottoms of lynn, elm, oak, and ash. The adjacent country is (at least two thirds) covered with small lakes, some of which arc S miles in cir- cumference. This renders the communication impassible in sum- mer, except with small bark cano'^s. In this distance we first met I with a species of pine called the sap pine. It was equally unknown I to myself and all my party. It scarcely ever exceeds the height of 35 I feet, and is very full of projecting branches. The leaves are simi- nd into tlifl l^^r to other pines ; but project out from the branches on each side, vhicU heifl'" ^ direct line, thereby rendering the branch flat ; ^nd this forma- ley |\ stream kunded by bills. o navigate, bemg but there IS one |,,e place callec^;>V; Lh is certamly ^^^« nued succession 0' rily i^"' "' Ition occasions the natives and voyagers to give it the preference on lall occasions to the branches of all other trees for their beds, and to [cover their temporary camps ; but its greatest virtue arises from its jmedicinal qualities. The rind is smooth, with fhe exception of little protuberances of about the size of a hazel nut ; the top of which being cut, you squeeze out a glutinous substance of the consistence bf honey. This gum or sap gives name to the tree, and is used by he natives and traders of that country as a balsam for all wounds eau, ^* P \li3sis*iW"'^'' '^X sharp instruments, or on parts frozen, and almost all other brs mo ^^^^j^j,5\Mxternal injuries which they receive. My poor fellows experienced hs from I -1^ m ^ ' ... f . k ' ■ i' ^ <:r- .]; 34 APPfiNDIX TO PART f. rail"'' I ; its beneOdal qualitieit by the application made of it to their frozen extremities in various instances. The Pine river bears from the Mississippi N. 30" E. althourh it empties in on that which has been hitherto ttnned the W. shore. It is 80 yards wide lU it* nnonfk and has an island immediately at the entrance. It corn:nun\cati^\ with Lake Le Sang SuC) by the following; course of i) ..igatioii: In one day's sai' iVom the confluence, you arrive at ihe first v^n r>*' White Fish Lake, which is about 'i miles lotiij» and l.vo wide,. From thence you pursue the river about two miles, and co re to the 2d White Fish Luke, which is about 3 nviles long und i wide ; then you have the river three milt;s to the Sd lake, which is / miles lont^ and two in width, (which I crossed on my return f> om the head o'. the Mississippi, oii the of February; and ?s in 45° 32' C2" N.Ia. titude) I'rom thonce you follow the river a quai fcr of a mite < le 4th lui\c. which is a circular one of about 5 miles in circuiaferencc. From liience > •a pursue the river one day's sail to a small lake; front thenc>: 1 v-o du.y'» sail to a portage, which conveys you to another lake, from \^ hence hy small portages from lakt: to lake, you'make iht voyage to Leech Lake. The whole of this course lays through ridges of pines or swamps of pinenet, sap pine, hemlock. Sec &c. From the river De Corbeau to this place, the deer ar»very plenty, but wts found no more buffalo or elk. From this spot to Red Cedar Lake> the pine ridges are interrupted by large bottoms of elm, ash, oak, and maple ; the soil of which would be very proper for cultivation. From the appearance of the ice, (which was firm and equal) I conceive there can be but one ripple in this distance. Red Cedar lake lays on the E. side of the Mississippi, at the distance of 6 miles from it, and is near equally distant from the river De Corbeau and Lake De Sable. Its form is an oblong square, and may be 10 miles in circumference. From this to Lake De Sable on the Et shore, you meet with Muddy River, which discharges itself into the Mississippi by a mouth 30 yards wide, and boars nearly N. £. We then meet with Pike river on the W. about 77 miles below Sandy lake, and bears nearly due N: up which, you ascend with canoes 4 day's sail, and arrive at a wild Hice lake, which you pass through and enter a small streanit { and ascend it two leagues ; then cross a portage of two acres into i lake 7 leagues in circumference ; then two leagues of a river into I another small lake. From thence you descend the current N. £■ into Leech lake. 'I'lic banks of the Mississippi are still bordered I by the pines of the different species, except a few small bottoms of j elm, lynn and maple. The game scarce, and the Aborigines, sub- >H f' it to their frozen r bears from the it which has been ide lu it* rnonHiy It coii^nunicatii.'* ke t'i t) ivigation; It the ftrsl ?nrt t>*' I tvTO wide. From d CO re to the 2cl and I wide ; then ch is 7 miles lon<^ 1 f(om the hei»d o\ 46° 32' S2" N.la- erof a mile < « 'le m circuviiference. iil to a small lake ; k eys you to another to lake, you- make ourse lays through , hemlock, &c &c. ai'*very plenty, but to Red Cedar Lake, if ehii,ash, oak,an(l r cultivation. From ] equal) I conceive I Cedar lake lays on > miles from it, and and Lake De Sable. !s in circumference, u meet with Muddy ippi by a mouth 20 leet with Pike river nd bears nearly due sail, and arrive at a nter a small stream, 5 of two acres into a gues of a river into the current N. E. pi are still bordered 'ew small bottoms ofj he Aborigines, sub- APPENDIX TO PART 1. sist •Imoat entirely on th«h,n *' "ver St. Louis, M-hich emptie- :!.?.*'' '^""'"'""^cates with th« •s on the F /'«« xt X . ^^^^^^ with san nine tu «uout 50 *e river ,o theMe^i " "• ""« «'"f »f Metco T,! I:""™''' r""'e Ji.side, which bel """' ^"'' the Riviere I. r '4 56 APPENDIX TO PART I. in -, < ^-' \ I about 36 miles in circumference. From Lake Winipeque the river continues 5 leagues to Upper Reel Cedar Lake, which may be ternie-] the Upper Source of Mississippi. The Leech Lake Branch bears (from the forks) S. W. and runs through a chain of meadows. You pass Muddy lake, which is scarcely any thing more than an extensive marsh of 1 5 miles in circumference ; the river bears through it nearly N. after which it again turns W. In many places this branch is not more than ten or fifteen yards in width, although 15 or 20 feet deep. From this to Leech Lake, the communication is direct, and without any impediment. This is rather considered as the main source, although the Winipeque Branch is navigable the greatest distance. To this place the whole face of the country has an appearance of an impenetrable morass, or boundles savanna. But on the borders of the lake is some oak and large groves of su* gar maple, from which the traders make sufRcient sugar for their consumption the whole year. Leech Lake communicates with the river De Corbeau by seven portages, and the river Des Feuilles also, with the Red river^ by the Otter Tail Lake on the one' side, and by Red Cedar Lake and other small lakes to Red Lake on the other. Out of these small lakes and ridges, rises the upper waters of the St. Lawrence, Mississippi, and Red river,* the latter of which discharges itself into the ocean by Lake Winipie and Hudson's Bay. All those waters have their upper sources within 100 miles of each other, which I think plainly proves this to be the most elevated part of the N. E. continent of America. But we must cross (what is commonly termed) the Rocky Mountains, or a Spur of the CoT' deliers, previous to our finding the waters, whose currents run westward, and pay tribute to the western ocean In this quarter we find moose, a very few deer and bear, but i vast variety of fur animals of all descriptions. The first nation of Indians whom we met with in ascending the j Mississippi from St. Louis, were the Sauks, who principally reside in four villages. The 1st at the head of the rapids DeMoyenosI the W. shore, consisting of 13 log lodg( The 2d on a prairie on I the E. shore, about 60 miles above. The 3d on the Riviere Del Roche, about three miles from the entrance^ and the last ontbe] river Iowa. They hunt on the Mississippi and its confluent streams, froml the Illinois to the river Des Iowa ■ and on the plains west of themj which border the Missouri. They are so perfectly consolidated witiil • Red river discharges itself into Hudson's Bay, by Lake Winipie and Nd'j son's river. deer and bear, but a APPENDIX TO PART I. by Lake Winiple and Nd '"• The ch.„e" r .ore .0 be dreaded for U-eir^ee. ^"' "' ""•"■'>■ •« ">»oh «" for open courage. "" '"" ■"'"-"•ion for .imugen." Aoflhe M,"i*ppTS mi','"^ ""'"«'"■ The 1... „„ .^e w »• 3d. on Turkey river, hal™ lea ° i r ?' ""'"^ "''''". '"d "Wdin the «,„e wa™ and t. I" ' '"'""«• T'-'y •" 'P.«e. They l.un.L Crdderr/r M-'"'*''''"'"'''''""" Iw low.,, (below , he Prairie D«rh,° ^'""""PPi from th« K' »W viWage. They S« a la ''"'^ !° ' *" »' ""' "™' h".i .he former of iLe.,Sr°"'7"f ™"'' bean., "•" fc>"y hundred bushels per ai,„„m '"'='• "•""•Wes. aa to sell h^'r::;r.%:rr^r;T--ain.wo " h D. Moyen, and weatward ,o ,hT m" ' *"'™^''P'> "» r «' "- ">o ««n.e as the Sauk, a„d r"°""; ""'" "'" '"O l««l protection they conceive the^! , ''""■''' •' ""''er whose h'com; but not so much „ ' " '° '"• ThcrculUvate t*; T' -ir residence being onT"'"",? ""^ "'"'"»'' r'^ -Mmm,ppi, out of thellh ,^'!r'''»'"™-" .he rear of [• criliwd than those naUonf °' ""''-"ce, render, them 7 ;;"t'S irt c'^tht'rd r ""'^ "' *' - Jauflioni on the W. side of thTJ' • " °'" *^^ «"*'"«nce of h Des W, above th^^^l o^;";^.^''''^^^ «P »"« latter river H"; but theli,nits between thel!'f"'^"^''*''"'«'-^*° the r^ --^ -i.ed by .hf":irrofie";^-:fppi,t ;; U) I,; 5$ APPENDIX TO PART I. now ceded to the United States ; but they reverved to theni3otvc» the privilege of hunting and residing on it att usual. By killing the celebt uted Sauk chief Pontiaci the Illinois, Cu- hokiaS) Kaskuakias and Piorias, kindled a war with the allied nntioiri of Saukft and Reynarda, which has been the cause of the aUnost entire destruction cf the former natrons. The Winebagos, or Puants, are a nation who reside on the rivers Ouiscousing, De Roche i Fox and Green Bay, in seven villa- ges) which are situated as follows viz : |a' 5 1st. At the entrance of Green Bay. 2d. End of do. 3d. Wuckan,on the Fox river. 4tlt. At Lake Puckway. 5th. Portage of the Ouls- cousir.g. 6th and 7th. Both on Ro- che river. Those villages are so situated, that the Winebagos can embo- dy the whole force of their nation, at any one point of their territo- ly in four days. They hunt on the Ouiscousing, Rock river, and E. side of the Mississippi ; from the Rock river to the Prairie Des Cbiens ; on Lake Michigan, Black river, and the country between i Lakes Michigan, Huron, and Superior. From the tradition amongst them, aud the'r speaking the same language of the Otc3; of the! Rivife Platte, I am confident in asserting that they are a nationl who huve emigrated from Mexico, to avoid the oppression of the] Spaniards ; and the time may be fixed at about one and a half cen-j turies past, when they were taken under the protection of the Siouxl to v/hom they still profess to owe faith, and at least brotherly atten-l tion. They have formerly been at war with the nations west of thej Mississippi, but appear recently to have laid down the hatcheij They are reputed brave, but from every circumstance their neigb^ bors distinguish their bravery as the ferocity of a tiger, rather tbii the deliberate resoiuilon of a man. And recently, their conduq has been such as to authorisie the remark made by a chief of a mm boring nation, " That a wl)ite man never should lay down to sleeg without precaution in t'\eir villages." The Menomenc or Fols Avoins (as termed by the Frenclj nation, reside in seven villages, situated as follows, viz. 1st. the river Mcnomene, 15 leagues from Green Bay, north side of tl lake. 2d. At Green Bay. 3d. At Little Kakalin. 4th. Peru of Kakalin. 5th. Stinking Lake. 6th. Entrance of a small on Fox river ; and 7th. Behind the Bank of the Dead, Their hui APPENDIX TO PAu I I. 59 „e iWinois, Ca- B o{ the a\mo»« 3 veaWe on the y, in seven vilte- .rtagcofthcOiiU- (using- J rth. Both on Ko- he river. inebaRoscanewho. ,ointonheirtemto. . Uock river, and b. 'to the Praivve l)« the country bctv^cen ,he tradition amongst of the Otc3, of tk Mttheyareanauon be oppression ;>J;^^ ,oneandahuU«n. otectionoftheSiou., Ing grounds arc ftlmilar to the Winebagos ; only, that owing to tlio very high estimation in which they are held, both by Siou^ and Cliipeways, they are frequently permitted to hunt near the Raven river on the Mississippi ; which may be termed the battle ground between those two great nations. The language which they apeak is 'ingular ; for no white man has ever yet been known to acquire it, but this may probably be attributed to their all understanding the Algonquin, in which they and the Winebagos transact all confe- rences with the whites or other nations ; and the facility with which that language is acquired, is a ''arther reason for its prevalence. The Fdls Avoins although a small nation, are respected by all their neiglibors for their braveiy, and independen; spirit, and es- teemed by the whites as their friends and protectors. When in the country, I have heard their chief assert in council with the Sioux and Chipeways, " That although they were reduced to few in num- "ber, yet they could say, we never were slaves." As they had always preferred, " that their women and children should die by their "own hands, to their being led into slavery by their enemies." The boundary of their territory is uncertain. The Sauks, Reynards, Puants, and Menomenes, all reside (when not at their villages) in lodges in the form of an ellipsis, and some are from 30 to 40 feet in length, by 14 or 15 wide, which are sufficiently large to I shelter 60 people from the storm, or for 30 to reside in. Theif covering are rushes plaited into mats, and carefully tied to the poles. In the centre are the fires, immediately over which is a small va- Icaucy in the lodge, which, in fair weather, is sufficient to give vent [to the smoke ; but in bad weather you must lay down on the ground /east brotherly atten-Mmprgvent being considerably incommoded by it. Ihe nations west ofth. X,\ down the hatche tt,mstance their nei?l ofatiger,rathenhi their condut We nesct come to that powerful nation the Sioux, the dread of horn is extended over all the savage nations, from the confluence f the Mississipjii and Missouri, to the Raven river on the former, d to the Snake Indians on the latter ; but in those limits are many itions whom they consider as allies; on similar footing with th6 ies of ancient Rome, i. e. humble dependants. But the Chipe- ould lay down to sw'Mjy nation is an exception who have maintained a long contest with lem, owing to their country being intersected by numerous small med by the Vrenci^tes^ water courses, impenetrable morasses, and swamps ; and have [ecently» ebyachiefofaneiej tev Ist. s follows, viz. "'• '■therto bid defiance to ail the attacks isf their neighbors. It is ne- 1 gj^y^ north side O'msary to divide the Sioux nation into the different bands, as distih- KaUalin. *^^* * ^''''■lishcd amongst themselves, in order to have a correct idea of theriri. Intrance of a stnaU mreeably to this plan, I shall begin with the Minowa Kantong^(jav the Dead. Their n^j,3 De Lac) who ejilend from the Prairie Des ChienS) to La il 1 • II it IS' s APPENDIX TO PART I. imP Wf $'; ' !•' lit '■ " '■' '.'ij , .1 b :; t I : '■ ^ ■; :T I ;|- iil' 1 i ; ■i| Prairie du Francois, 35 miles up the St. Peters. This band is uguiii •ub-diviUied into tour divisions, under different chiefs. The first ol which most generajl^ reside at their village on the Upper lowii river, above the Prairie Des Chienb, and are communded by VV a< basha, a chief, whose father was considered as the first chief of all the Sioux nation. This sub-division hunts on both sides of the Miu- tissippi, and its confluent streams from the Prairie Des Chiens to the riviere du Boeuf. 'i he second sub-division resides near the bead of Lake Pepin, and hunt from the riviere du iiceuf near to the river St. Croix. Their chief's name is Tantangumani, a very cele- brated war chief. Tiie third sub-division resides between the riviere fiu Canon and the entrance of the St. Peters, are headed by Chate- waconamani. Their principal hunting ground is on the St. Croix. They have a village at a place culled the Grand Marais, 15 miles below the entrance of the St. Peters. It is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, and consists of eleven log huts. The fourth 8ul)-division is situated from the entrance of the St. Peters, to tk i prairie Des Francois ; they are headed by a chief called Chatamu- tah, but a young man, Wyaganage, has recently taken the lead in i all the councils and affairs of state of this sub-band. They have one village nine miles up the St. Peters, on the N. side. This band! (Minowa Kantong) are reputed the bravest of all the Sioux ; aniil bave for years been opposed to the Fols Avoin Sauteurs, who arej reputed the bravest of all the numerous bands of Chipeways. The ^d. band of Sioux, are the Washpetong (or Gens Des Fieulj les), nho inhabit the country from the Prairie De Francois, near top Roche Blanche, on the St. Peters. Their first chief is WasonquianniJ They hunt on the St. Peters ; alHo on the Mississippi, up Uun river, and sometimes follow the buflViu, on the plains. Their su |)ivi>*ions I am unacquainted with. The 3d. band are the Sussitongs ; they extend from the Rcclj Blanche, to Lac de Gross Roche, on the river St. Peters ; theys divided into two sub-divisions. The 1st. band called the Cawrecj .are headed by the chief called Wuckiew Nutch, (or the Tonnei Rouge.) The 2d. called the Suaaitongt firofier^ and headed Wacantoe, (or Esprit Blue.) Those two sub-bands hunt eastward! the Mississippi, and up that river as far as the Riviere De Corbeij The 4th. great band ai*e the Yanctongs, who are disper frpm the Montaignes De la Prairie, (which extends from St. I ters to the Missouri) to the river De Moyen. TlMy are dividedij two grand divisions, generally termed the Yanctongs of the m and the Yanctongs of the south. The former are headed by a cij APPENDIX TO PABT I. '-'"".ne up; an« ri.„ *« .eud of ,„e rive,. De M^n Th '^ *""' ""'" 8"«'"% on OEWRAL OBSERVATIONS. «"er built log i,„„. „rcSjd ' "■""«">« ""'rone, who »" -Lo^ only a v.,y ,„ „ ^ul^u ™ ' """ "''"-"' "eetaWe, , N«d .0 the producUons^ Tw "f ''"7 '" »'"■'"">. "Web, wl«» h«enc. «.roug,.al,, t:l:7' "" ""' '"^•"^ 'Oem " ' any . king superior on eha. accor. T 7" "" "" °"- ""-I" I l'l« Washpecong are a 12 ' T"""'' °" "■« Pl"i»»- h»i» tie ...onthof Apri 'L ' "")""'<= ".e river S. h' A<= middle of AuKutt S '"" ■'"'"■" f""" 'l-e plains hl,a,.ae.e,. of bein/r^osu-l^LTLr f,' "'»-=. hTv^ p/aro?ri:S-^^^^^^ ^M# «? ■ APPENDIX TO PART I. ^'^% \\ 1 1 <*,• 1 [ » i viors, which may principally be attributed to their/ chief the Ton- nere Bouge, who, at the present day is allowed by both white people and the savages of the diuerent bands, to be (after their own chiefs) the f.rst man in the Sioux nation. The Yanctongs and Titongs are the most independent Indians in the world ; they follow the buffulo as chance directs ; clothing themseb'cs with the skin, and making their lodges, bridles, and saddles of the same materials, the flesh of the animal furnishing their food. Possessing innumerable herds cf horses, they are here this day, 500 miles off ten days hence, and find themselves equally at home in either place, moving with a ra- pidity scarcely to be imagined by the inhabitants of tho civilized woWd. , ■' • The trade of the Minowa Kantong, Washpetong, Sussitongs, and part of the Yanctongs, is all derived from the traders of Mi- chilimackinac ; and the latter of those two bands supply the Yanc- tongs of the north, and Titongs, with the small quantities of iron works which they requi: e. Fire arms are not in much estinlation with them. The Washpecoute trade principally with the people of Prnirie Dcs Chiens ; but for a more particular explanation of this subject, please to refer to the table.* I'he claims of limits of the Sioux nation, are allowed by all their neighbors, to commence at the Prairie Des Chiens, and as- cends the Mississippi on both sides, to the Riviere De Corbeau, up that river to its source ; from thence to the source of the St. Peters ; from thence to the Montaigne De La Prairie ; from thence to the Missouri down that river to the Mahas, bearing thence N. E. to the source of the river De Moyen ; and from thence to the place of be- gining. They also claim a large territory south of the Missouri, but how far it extends is uncertain. The country E. of the Missis- sippi, from Rum river to the Riviere De Corbeau is likewise in dis- pute between them and the Chipevvays ; and has been the scene of I many a sharp encounter for near one hundred and fifty years past. From my knowlege of the Sioux nation, I do not hesitate to J pronounce them the most warlike and independent nation of Indians] within the boundaries of the United States, their every passion be-i ing subservient to that of war ; but at the same time, their tradersi feel themselves perfectly secure of any combination being madel against them, but it is extremely necessary to be careful not toin-j jiire the honor or feelings of an individual, which is certainly thcj principal causfc of the many broils which occur between them. Buf See tabic F. appendix to part I, facing page 66. "» anc P^PerioiJ , chief the Tan- ,th white people heir own chiefs) and Titopgs are )Uow the buffalo an, and making lerials, the flesh numerable herds days hence, and noving with a ra- s of tho civilized tong, Sv\ssitongs, he traders of Mi- supply the Yanc- quantities of iron , much estiniaiion with the people of explanation of this are allowed by all ea Chiens, and as- ;re De Corbeau, up ,e of the St. Peters; from thence to the thence N.E. to the e to the place of be- ith of the Missouri, try E. of the Missis- ;au is likewise in clis- las been the scene of and fifty years past. I do not hesitate to lent nation of Indians lieir every passion be- ,e time, their traders nbination being made be careful not toin- APPENDIX TO PART I. obe caremi nut i"- which is certainly the x between tli^cm. ^" [jg Jiage 66. "ever was a trader known to suffer • u y -enting any i„,i,„,y ^^^^^^ '"Jhe estimation of the nation he hi. of .he offender Their lutturl? '' *''" '^ '' "^"^ '^ *«kin^ bones; their visages, and H 7 ^''"""""^t'o'' } Wfth cheek 0- t.aditions, su^p:;.: V r"sr""'; "^^^''- ^'"^tt Put« " in my mind, beyond 111 ^ °"^ °^ "eighborin^ nations f-ed from the N. ^ l^:;^Zll; '^^^^ ^^^ '-^-oss the narrow streights, Ihc1^t7h ! '" "''''^'^ ^"^^ ''«^' <=on,e -tments; and are absolut 17 tl^^ 7"- divides the two . ^^e only personal knowLH li . ? ^ Tartarean. tribe, nation, is restricted to the tr^s^^^^^ I have of the Chipeway -d waters of the Chi;: '/ ^ ^n^I' 1'^ °' ^^''^ ^up'rior! ^vi»o reside at Sandy Lake, Leech L\ o .^' ""'"^^ ' «"d those -1 the head of the rivers Ro ' uT -""""^^ ^^'^«' ^^^ Lake f hey are divided into many banl' n . T^^'' «"d De Corbeau ;;7°^7^^^^Ia-onlyacTuaS2t; t k""^^ ^he names "f Stable and Sang Sue, with th. r ^"P^^o""' and on Lakes De fy denominated b^r ' t 'aL'r^h'L '°""^'-^- '^ '^^ «- gef,! those of the head wafers of he cm;- ' ' "'^^ °^ Sauteuxs but called You Avoin Sauteu. s ^'/^^'^^P-^^X' and St. Croix riveV, a^ -chiefs. Thoseof Sandy LTkr^T'"^'""'^^''*' "-- o" Caawabata,CorDc Breche.) Thev T ""''''' '^ « ^hief called Lake, and the east bank of i Ir ^. ""* °" 'he AlijJe Lacs H.,i "^nver Des Corbeau 'an t^theT^''^^' '''"^ '^^ "- uP o ;-l>pi to PineHver on^TZ^r '^^^'^^^^ ^^ ^he C Lake De Sable, and about loo 2L T "^ '''' ^Mississippi to " Leech Lake hunt on its streams, ke W ''• '"' '''''■ ^ho- of Lake, the Otter Tail Lake, held of M "'^^'' ^'^'P'' ^^^ Cedar JPPer part of Lower R d X, tILT ^t •'^°"''^'^"' -^' ''- ' Watte, (or Eskibugeckoge.) ' ^ '''^'' "^"^^ ^^ Le Gieulle °» «^'r^: 's:t::::;^^^^' .^-^^ ^-^ ^" ^- vi^nity. and , /d. The Nepesangs res rUL'^ T""'^'' CorLeSuc-r.) St. Joseph. °" Lake Nippising, and on Lake -- dis^te^^^^^^^^^^ ';^e of the two fountains, ;;-this tribe thelfnguage n '^^^^^^ Ontario and E^' "^ the whole nation is frecmentj! ^ • ^'"P^^^^^^ derives its name ^^ ^th. TheOtowaysriri^' :7-;^^ythatappel,ati '"' and Lake Huron • and h . ^' ^'^"' "^ Lake Michi iperior. ' ^"^ hunt between those lakes and Tat HH I :sii;- APPENDIX TO PART I. :/? i i*' M ■ rhloewaVB, are dUpersed alo.>S tlP««»y'\„ ,„ ,he Lake of the Wood.. of all the Grea, Lake,, f"" On' ™ » « ^^,^^, „t ^,„ Red river, near..! Lake W-P'- ""^j:,;] ,,„„„ natural ene^e.of «y.. The Chipe-ways«re the gr< „f extern..na,.on ,kIsioux, »ith «hon, •''"J'';^^^; :■: f aln, .hen., I -ceeded for near t»o centum,. « n m, a ^^ ^^^ ^,^„ ^ ^ in inducing both ,.de, •.» ^6 ^.^ Ji uftthe co.n.ry. Th.aol,- from Sept. 1805, to Apr. 1806, ^l^'" „,^ British govern- ec"had frequently been (.n '»'"} »f ^ Vo nation, together, at ^;:n.. «'- often bro»g"*e;'-:^»'„^^^^^ ,„, ,he Slou., sull Michir.mackinac , made '' '"j; ^ ^^ferred ccl»e> I an<^ «" haughty and overbearing. »P»"^^ *', ^„j „arbarity. It n.ay then ';Ve.) the a,s.stance o j,y „,. :bid:hld long been ->-Pf/„;:;:^".„een U,o,c tl nations, «i* vi„c.d,thut,unles,tvoop,aresen upbet ^^^^^^^^^ _..^,„^,. an agent, tvhose bus.ness.t «°" " ,„at the tveapo., ZJ; and check the Oroo^ng ^P^''-J « J ^^ ^^,.^e barban, ,t death will ag«.n be raised, and m „iU resound through the '■"^^^^^ ^„^,„ed ,o spirituous liq..o|' The Chipetvays are uncommonly at ,,^„ fi„j i, „„ch toth. butm.ynotthl,beo«ing.ot.^^^j-.^^ ^„.,^,,, „,i.He„a* interest to encourage the.r y*i rm the ban\ts uower Red i of Ch\pe. enemies of itertninauon \ succeeded 30d was sbed ^y. Tbisob- pUish govem- ,atoselber,at Sioux, suW and re- j It may then and no presets of Canada, wth t had attet^P^ed .commended u? equested, recotu- tancc -, a"" blood soon obbie- , whicb they .amty» But, when 1 ap- iteiy acqmf \ev icans nd w^^en lame ed the warvi- (as I spo^e to of their great oil'*' " i;, nefitoftV^*^^^'^' ipoke of tbe peiice :n\8clv es w and ith tbc nations, circumstances of igbtyi ll am pe aftec ted tW con' lose two rfeclly ,fttion8,^v iA :h tbe rising discon' that tbe weapowi APPENDIX TO PART 1. m them to obtain their peltries at so I ?w a rate, as scarcely to be denom- inated a consideration, and have reduced the people near the este- blishments, to a degree of degradatiiui unparalleled ? The Algonquin language is one of the most copious and sonorous languages of all the savage dialects in North America > and is spoken and understood by the various nations (except the Sioux) fron» the Qulf of St. ltaw« rence to Lake Winipie. This nation is much more mild and docile than the Sioux } an4 (if we may judge from unprejudiced observers) more cool «nd de« liberate in action ; but the latter possess a much higher sense of the honor of their nation : the others filan for aelffireaervation. The Sioux attack with impetuosity, the other defends with every neces- sary precaution. But the superior number of the Sioux, would have enabled them to have annihilated the Chipeways long since, had it not been for the nature of their country, which entirely pre- cludes the possibility of an attack on horseback. Also, gives them a decided advantage over an enemy, who, being half armed with arrows, the least twig of a bush would turn the shaft of death out of its direction. Whereas, the whizzing bullet holds its course, nor spends its force short of the destined victim. Thus, we ger.e^ rally have found, that, when engaged in a Prairie the Sioux came off victorious ; but if in the woods, even, if not obliged to retreat^ the carcases of their slaughtered brethren ahew how dearly they purchase the victory. The Sioux are bounded on tbe N. £. ^ad N. by theeo tvMi powerful nations, the Chipeways and Knisteneaux, whose marr? rsi strength, and boundaries, are ably described by sir Alexander M^ct kenaie. The Assinniboins (or Stone Sioux) who border the Chxpjj* ways on the * J W. and W, are a revolted band of the Sioux, and have maintained a war with the parent nation for about » century ; and have now rendered themselves their most violent onemies^ They extend from the Red river west, nearly to the Rocky IVloun* tains, and are computed at 1 500 warriors. They reside on th^ plains, and follow the buiFalo, consequently they hiive very littlo [pccasion for traders or European productions. Z. M. Pike, I St, Lieut. 1st United States Regt. Infty. of savage barba xm 1; I ll'.' i'i'i I '11 3 Ay y: f* «•> :i- .14 ^}k M'- It, o U •suiJV *J!J J° '°N •spi" g Suuo^ aqj JO saSpoq jo -o^ O O O O O »n o> Q O vj »o O <0 Tj< »^ ■* (N '» '- O* O •* -« C« >o O o 00 •sinog. JO .loquinu Jiq^qoaj o o o o «0 lo O >o 00 b» ^ Ov c» — — — O >n 1^ >o 1^ »■- CO «o •-• ^•m ^^^ ^* C\ — •b33b||ia jo -o^j M n CT tly coming m on the river. Six miles blow St. Charles, on the south side, in frontof a village called Flo- pant, is a coal hill, or as it is termed by the French, La Charbon- Bere. This is one solid stoae hill, which probably aftbrds sufticient pel for all the population of Louisiana, St. Charles is situated on |ie we?t side of the Missouri, where the hill first joins the rive/, |id is laid out parallel to thf stream. APPENDIX to PART 11. |i -aii The main street on the first bank, the 3nd. on the top of the hill. Oh this street is situated a round wooden tower, formerly occupied by the Spaniards as a fort or guard house, now converted into a pri< (iotit l^rotn this tower you have an extensive view of the river be> lowt St. Charles consists of about 80 houses, principally occupied by Indian traders or their engagees. It is the seat of justice for the district of St. Charles. From St. Charles to the village of La Charrette, the West side is (generally low, but hills running parallel at a great distance back from the river : on the south side, more hilly with springs. Scat- tering settlements on both sides. La Charrette, is the last settlement we saw on the Missouri, although there is one above, at a saline on the ^^ est side. From La Charrette to the Gasconade river, you find on the north, low laad heavily timbered. On the south, hills, rivulets and a small number of small creeks ; very high cane. The Gasconade 'u-> 200 yards vride at its entrance ; is navigable at certain seasons 100 miles. At the time we were at it, it was backed by the Mississippi, but was clear atid transparent, above their confluence. On the opposite side to their confluence, commences the line between the Sac In- diana and the United States. tiom the Gasconade to the entrance of the Osage liver, the MMith aide of the river is hilly, but well timbered. On the north al« low bottoms and heavy timber; In this space of the Missouri, iVom its euu-ance to the Osage rivtsr, we find it well timbered, nch eoii, and very proper for the cultivation of all tie productions of our middle and western states. It is timbered generally with cotton wood, ash) oak, pecan, hickory and with some elm ; but the cotton { wood predominates on all the ntade bottoms. From the entrance of the Osage river, to the Giavel river, a distance of 1 18 miles, the banks of the Osage are covered with timber, and possess a very rich soil. Smal'. hills, with rocks, alternutely border the eastei-n and j western shores ; ;ht bottoms being very excellent soil, and tlic f^m' try abounding in game. From xncc to the Yungai*, the river | continues the same appearance } the shoals and islands being desig* nated on the chart. 1 he Yungar (or Ne hem-gar) as termed by] the Indians, derives its name from the vast number of springs atj its source ; it is supposed to be nearly as extensive as the Osage river, navigable for canoes 100 miles, and is celebrated for the abundance of bear, which are found on its branches. On it hunt| the Chasseuts du Boisot Louisiana, Osage, and Creeks (or Musko gees') a wandering party of which have es abiished themselves iu APPENDIX TO PART IJ. I^uismna ; and between «,i, ^ -Aou 20 paces from the bank oitll I' ""' " « ^'^ -^ ^ teT cumference ; it was elevated T , '^''*''' «"^ ^aJf a mUe in ' the river Ti,; * '''*'^*«" at ieast 20 fept «k^ *• ">^e m cir- ■ ""-•; ^-"'■-app.a.;, ;trre 't?""'''' "' «>" '-o "/ From thence to a few mi/.. , , '"' ""'' ""c* deducuon '"k' of .he ri,er contiTe:": „';'"" *° ''"^' («« cha^o "h, "" ""^-'ained with the s.1" ^f „ ^°"'"'' ''"•">= S™. ime ;~ ..a .„„, , w^j^irsis:;: ^^^^ , In this district the cliffy »k- . ^''°'* H'ng round and pa,, .he villa 'Tt''^ ™' ""= ""-f-m oneVSl' K -ells, and slopin'^ ZT^Z:^'""" "'^--fiel ZZ t'. "Mch are „„ d„„h. del.idrcrr^''^ "^ '^"'"-'^ H' "ver, ia . reference .0 my ^h!^ T- *' ""S""™ "f £1 pi, we found plentv nf ri . ® prairies on th^ -it h •l'«y l«co„. ,,,,7 "^^ ^^^ e'k and deor, b„. nea. .,« wf r5~"'=-or;rcoif^ ' "J 'At v,l APPENDIX TO PART II. hK ■ ■ 'i ■ ^i L'. 'W i> l4 .H II « only limited by the imbecility of our si^ht. The vraters of the White river and the O >age, are divided merely by a small ridge in the prairie, and the dry branches appear to interlock at their head. From thence to the main branch of said river, the country appeared high and gravelly ridges of prairie land. On the main White river is large timber and fine ground for cultivation. Hence a doubt arises as to the disemboguing of this stream. Lt. Wilkinson from some authority, has drawn the conclusion, that it discharges itseif into the Arkansaw, a short distance below the Vermillion river-^ but from the voyages of capt. Maney, on the IVhite river, the infor- mation of hunters, Indians, 8cc. I am rather induced to believe it to be the White river of the Mississippi— as at their mouths there is not so great a difference between their magnitude ; and all persons agree in ascertaining that the White river heads between the Osage river, Arkansaw and Kanses rh'ers, which would still leave the Arkansaw near 800 miles more lengthy than the White river. From these proofs, I am pretty confident in asserting, that this was the White river of the Mississippi which we crossed. At the place where we traversed it, the stream was amply navigable for canoes, even at this dry season (August) of the year. Up this river to the dividing ridges, between it and the Verdi- grise river, the bottom is of somQ magnitude and importance, but! the latter river is bounded here in a narrow bed of prairie hills, ii.Uhlo; j fording not more than sufficient timber for fire wood for a limitedj number of inhabitants for a few years. From the Verdigrlse, ourj course apjain lay over gravelly hills and a prairie country, but welll watered by the branches of the Verdigriscand White rivers (aliail Grand river.) From this point to the source of White river^ thereisj very little timber, the grass short, prairies high and dry. From \ head of White river over the dividing ridge between that and tbi Eastern branch of the Kans river, the ridge is high, dry, and h« many appearances of iron ore, and on the West side some spai springs — Here the country is very deficient of water, from tfci East Branch of the Kans river (by our route) to the Pawnee repulj lie on the republican fork, (see chart) the prairies are low, liigl grass, and the country abounds with salines, and the earth appeal to be impregnated with nitrous and common salts. The :mmed| ate border of the republican fork near the village is high ridges, I this is an exception to the general face of the country. All tt country, between the forks of the Kans river, a distance of miles, may be called prairie, notwithstanding the borders of wo ittnd which ornament the banks of those streams, but are no rad APPENDIX TO PART II. IfcanaJine tracedon a.he.i„r * """" '■■«' Of ">o" « sandy st...;i oi the Arkansaw, in the W! T'f m I 1 APPENDIX TO PART 11. rp niountainsi to its source, a distance of about IfO miles ; (by the meanders) it i-^ alternately bounded by perpendicular precipice* in small narrow | liries, on which the buffalo and elk have found th<: means to arrive, and arc almost secure from danger, from their dcs- troycr— Man. In muny places the Vivcr precipitates itself over rocks, so as at one moment to he visible only in the foaming and boiling of its wa- ters ; at the next moment it disappears in the charms of the o'er hanging precipices. I'he Arkansaw river, taking its meanders agreeably to Lt Wilkinson's survey of the lower part, is 1981 miles from its en- trance into the Mississippi to the mountains, and from thence to its source 192 miles, making its total length 2,173 miles, all of which may be navigated with proper boats, constructed for the purpose; except the 192 miles in the mountains. It has einptp ing into it, several small rivers navigable for 100 miles and upwards.* Boats bound up the whole length of the naviga- tion, should embark at its entrance, on the Ist of Februar)-;! when they would have the frcbh quite to the mountains, and meet with no detention. But if they should start later, they would find! the rivi^r 1500 miles up nearly dry. It has one singularity, whiclij struct hm; very forcibly at first view, but on reBection, I am induced! to h«;Ucve It is the same case with all the rivers which run througil & iv*v,, sk\ and sandy soil in warm climates. This I observed tobol the «:?Be with the Rio del Norte, viz : for the extent of 4 or 50 miles before you arrive near the mountains, the bed of the river i extensive, and a perfect sand bar, which at certain seasons is dr] at least the water is standing in ponds, not affording sufiicien' procure a running course. When you come nearer the mount^iu you find the river contracted, a gravelly bottom, and a deep navigi ble stream. From these circumstances it is evident, that the san soil imbibes all the wrtcrs which the sources project from the moa tains, and renders the r:ver (in dry seasons) less navigable ^vel, dred miles ; than iOO miles from its source. The borders of i Arkansaw river may be termed the paradise (terrestrial) of ourtJ ruories, for the wandering savages. Of all countries ever visited! the footsteps of civilized man, there never was one probably produced game in greater abundance, and we know that the ners and morals of the erratic nations, are such (the reasons I Id to be given by the ontologists) as never to give them a numei * See Ix, WiUdoioa's report of the lower Arkansas. jS'.^ ^0 miles J (by the :ular precipices in elk have found the rer. iVom their des- APPENDIX TO PART II. over rocka, so as at d boiling of its wa- charma of the o'er rs agreeably to Lt 1 miles from its en- id from thence to its 2,173 miles, all of constructed for the iins. It has empty- for 100 miles and ^gth of the naviga- te Ist of February-; mountains, and meet later, they would find I singularity, whicli| «0"n taint, p« of •ii province of iwpuJation ; and I believe tli»» ♦•. ' ficlent on the banks of tL A 1!'' *"! ^"''^^"' *"^' "»<> deer suf. to feed ali ehe savage. IX'^Zl t?' '' "^^ ""' ^^ --» By the rome of .he Arkansas anTthaPr.''''"^^''^ ^^'^ '^««'"ry I am confident in aa«,rti„g flf mv If ^°'°''''^° °^ ^-'iforhU^ -en of information is correcO th. """^^ ^'^'^ SP^'""** KeX communication on this side ^/^^^r" ^^ "^«'>"«''ed the Teli lanuc and Pacific oceans a! T^ ■ °^ ^"^*'" ''«^vee« the a/ -id not be more Z\:rJZ:ZVl' "^'"°'^' ''^ '^^' -X' Mississippi ^teGrp'r.E^^-'p'-f considerable burden, oppositltr' ""''^""^' Senora. opposite to the upper part oi ^ecou':,;::,'^:-^;:::^'^''"'''^""' f"--. , passe,.. In .his „C3,,,.„ ,^„,,^,^ 'f "'".'■'' "■""'selves. ' „ »hich run .hrc. Jt,i„„ ; f,.„„ „„„^„ „„,h, ",""!; k"'' ""'""= »"" '^-'"'P^c, pot.' This I observed w««r various branches 7, 1? ""'' '"' '''"■"=• Aika„sa,n d he extent of 4 or SOlHwuce a limi,„| ° , .' "PP'"" "> me to be onlv /;...«; .he hea of the rwe, |. u .„ost:'at:;:.::r-''»^ '•''^S:h:ir :\ ::: certain seasons » d,|rf c.„le, horses, sheen a„,r """'""°" "^ "« nmlUpUcaln . .ffor "■^ its ..or,,?™" ■:■'"; '*'''«"'"' ("n're«s«>,,h„e.. Tht yellow itone river of Lewlj.; JO V If , if 1' )'»ii IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 11.25 ISiyji 125 ■^ Uii 122 us. 12.0 ■u u I IE ^1^ ffiotographic Sdences Corporation \ s? <^ 33 WeST MAIN STRliT WEBSTIR.N.Y. USSO (716)S72-4S03 APPENDIX TO PART II. ttrn braticli) «nd the La Platte ; on its Routh western sidey it pro. duces the Rio Colorado of California ; on its east the Arkansaw, and on its south the Rio del Norte of North Mexico. I have no hesitation in asserting;, that I can talie a position in the mountains from whence I can visit the source of any of those rivers in one day. Numerous have been the hypothesis formed by various natura- lists, to account for the vast tract of uniimbered country which lies between the waters of the Missouri, Mississippi, and the western Ocean, from the mouth of the latter river to the 48° north latitude. Although not flattering myself to be able to «lucidate that, which numbers of highly scientiBc characters, have acknowleged to be beyond their depth of research ; still, I would not think I had done my country justice, did I not give birth to what few lights my exa> mination of those internal deserts has enabled me to acquire. In that vast country of which we speak, we find the soil generally dry and sandy, with gravel, and discover that the moment we approach a stream, the land becomes more humid with small timber; I therefore conclude, that this country never was timbered, as from the earliest age, the aridity of the soil having so few water courses running through it, and they being principally dry in summer, has never afforded moisture sufhcient to support the growth of timber. In all timbered land, the annual discharge of the leaves, with the continual decay of old trees and branches, cieatej} a manure and , moisture, which is preserved from the heat of the sun not being] permitted to direct; his rays perpendicularly, but only to shed them J obliquely through the foliage. But here a barren soil, parched and J dried up for eight months in the year, presents neither moisture norj nutrition sufficient, to nourish the timber. These vast plains of] the western hemisphere, may become in time equally celebrated! as the sandy desarts of Africa ; for I saw in my route, in variouil places, tracts of many leagues, where the wind had thrown upthcl sand, in all the fanciful forms of the ocean's rolling wave, and ( %vhich not a speck of vegetable matter existed. . But from these immense prairies may arise one great advanta to the United States, viz: The restriction of our population! some certain limits, and thereby a continuation of the union. Oiij citizens being so prone to rambling and extending themselves, i the frontiers, will, through necessity, be constrained to limit thci extent on the west, to the borders of the Missouri and Mis!>issi|f vhile they leave the prairies incapable of cultivation to the wandej i,ig ai'.d uncivilized aborigines of the country. The Osage Indi4 APPENDIX TO PART n. 9 nttde,itpTo- ico. Ibaveno the mountains se rivers in one - various natuta- and the west*'" 180 north latitude. cidate r/«x'. ^^f ^cknovrlegcd to be jtlhinVtlt*'^^'^'^'^' ^ soil generaUy dry ^„„,entvre approach ih small timber -.1 sumbered^asfrotn ,o(e.^aterco«rs- Uro.thoftvn.b^ the leaves, >vuh t^e veate? a manure ai^d of the sun not bens butonlylo«^^^«^f" 'rensoU,pa-^^^"J^ s neither moisture n. vast plain* ol appear to have emigrated from the north and vrest, attd from thoir speaking the same language with the Kans, Otos, Missouries, and Mahaws ; together with the great similarity of manners, moralS} and customs, there is left no room to doubt, but that they were origin- ally the same nation ; but seperated by that great law of nature, self* preservation, the love of freedom, and the ambition of various cha* racters, so inherent in the breast of man. As nations purely erratic must depend solely on the chase for subsistence, (unless pastoral, which is not the case with our savages) it requires large tracts of country, to afford subsistence for a very limited number of souls ; consequently, seir-preservation obliges them to expand themselves over a large and extensive district. The power of* certain chiefs becoming unlimited, and their rule severe, added to the passionate love of liberty, and the ambition of other young, bold, and daring characters, who step forward to head the malcontents, and like the tribes of Israel, to lead them through the wilderness to a new land ; the land of promise, which flowed with milk and honey, (alias abounded with deer and buffalo) These characters soon succeed in leading forth a new colony, and in process of time establishing a new nation. The Mahaws, Missouries, and Otos, remained on the banks of the Missouri river, such a distance up, asto be in the reach (if thut powerful enemy, the Sioux, who with the aid of the smt^)! pox, which the former nations unfortunately contracted by their con- nection with the whites, bav« reduced the Mahaws , formerly a brave and powerful nation) to a mere cypher, and obliged the Otos and Missouries to join their forces, who now form but one nation. The Kanses and -Osage, came farther to the .east, and thereby avoided the Sioux, but fell into the hands of the lowas. Sacs, Kickapoiis, Potowatomies, Delawares, Shawanese, Cherokees, Chickasa\vi;, :;iH lly celcbrate4B(.^^^^^^g^ ^^^^^ These Lroe equally ceicDT*v"™(.|,gj.jj^^g^ Arkansaws, Caddoes, and Tetaus ; and what astonished niy route, m ^^""■^■'ne extremely, is that they have not been entirely destroyed by those find had thrown up Bnations. But it must only be attributed to their ignorance of the I's rolling wave, an '"■tnemies' force, their want of conci rt, wars between themselves, and file great renown the invaders alwiys acqiure by the boldness of the pnterprisc, on tiie minds of the invaled. Their government is oligarchical, but still partakes of the na- ure of a republic, for although the power nominally is vested in,a itall number of chiefs, yet they never undertake any matter of im- ortance, without tirst assembling the warriors, and proposing the rise one great adv^t^ ,n of our populauo ltionoftheumotj.j) tending t^emselve^j ■ ed to Umit m jnstrain Usouri and at^""^ i!B'''ject in council, there to be discussed and decided on by a ma- try. The Osage ir !'l .,MI r to APPENDIX TO PAilT IT. i h'l: IM 'TheircMeft are hereditary, inmost instances, butjret there are many men who haire risen to more influence than those of illus- trious ancestry, by their activity and boldness in war. A'T^hongh there is no regular code of laws, yet there is a tacit acknowledgment of the ri^ht, which some have to command on certain occasions ; whilst others are bound to obey, and even to sub- mit to corporeal punishment ; as is instanced in the affair related in my diary of the 29th July; when Has-ha-ke-da-tungar (or the Big Soldier) whom I had made a partisan to regulate the move- ments of the Indians, flogged a young Ihdian with arms in his hands. On the ^hole, their government may be termed an oligarchi- cal republic, where the chiefs propose, and the people decide on all public acts. The manners of the Osage are different from those of any natienl ever saw (except those before mentioned of the same ori- gin) having their people divided into classes. All the bulk of the nation being warriors and hunters (with them, the terms being al- most svnonimous) the remainder is divided into two classes, cooks and doctors, the latter of whom likewise exercise the functions of priests or magicians, and have great influence on the councils of the nation by their pretended divinations, interpretations of dreams, athd their magical performances; an illustration of i^hich willbel better given by the following anecdote, which took place during] my stay at the nation, in August 1806, vis: Having had all thef doctors or magicians assembled in the lodge of Ca-ha-ga-tongi,l (alias Cheveux Blancs) and about 500 x^alors. They had twi)| rows of fires prepared, around which ti ;red band was stationed. They commenced the tragic*comedy, by putting a krge butchei knife' down their throats ; t!v> hioad appearing to run during th ' operation very naturally ; the i^cene was continued, by putting sticli| through the nose, swallowing bones and taking them out of thei trils, &c. At length one fellow demanded of me what I would giij 'if be would run a stuk through his tongue, and let another per cut off the piece. 1 replied, " a shirt." He then apparently formed his promise, with great pain, forcing a stick through I tongue, and then giving a knife to a bye-stander, who appeared | cut off the piece, which he held to the light, for the satisfactioDJ the audience : and then joined it to his tongue ; and by a magij charm healed the wound immediately. On demanding of me \ I thought of the performance : I replied I would give him 30$liii| APPENDIX TO PART IL It , but yet there aihosoof Ulus- Ltherewatacit ;o command on and even to aub- ihe affwr related aa-tungar (or the gulate the move- with 9xvcii in his rmed an oUgarchi- ^eople decide onall from those o£ any ed of the same on- AUthebulliof^^'^ the terms being al- to two classes, coob PcisethefuncuonsoJ on the councils oC the Stations of drem don of >Vhich m\\\^ .M took pi-^^*^:;;2' , Having had all to Igc of Ca-ha-ga-tonp. .^ators. Theyhadt.^ red band was stationed jutting a urge butc. ring to run during I Uued, by putting »ud „g them out of the « '.fmewhatlwcnldgit and let another per- ie then apparently ting a stick through ,nder, >^ho appeared Jl'forthesatisfacH .ngue-.andbyamagj n demanding of tne^ LouUlgivebim208ta if he would let me cut off the piece from his tbngue ; this discon^ certed him a great deal, and I was sorry I made the observation. The cooks are either for the general use« or attached particu« larly to the &mily of some great man, and what is the more singu- lar, that frequently men who have been great warriors, and brave men having lost all their families by disease, in the war, and thenk* selves becoming old and infirm, they firequently take up the profes- sion of cook, in which they do not carry arms, and are supported by the public, or their particular patron. i They likewise exercise the functions of tolvn criers, calling the chiefs to council and to feasts ; or if any particular person is wanted, you employ a crier, who goes through the village crying his name, and informing him he is wanted at such a lodge. When received into the Osage village, you immediately present yourself at the lodge of the chief, who receives you as his guest, where you generally eat first after the old patriarchal style. You are then in- vited to a feast by all the great men of the villilge ; and it would be a great insult if you did not comply, at least, as far as to taste of their victuals. In one instance, I was obliged to taste of fifteen dif- ferent entertainments, the same afternoon. When you will hear the cooks crying, " come and eat," such an one gives a feast, " come and eat of hif bounty." Their dishes vreve generally boiled sweet corn in buff;Uo grease; or boUed meat and pumpkins; but San Oriel (alias Tetobasi) treated me with a dish of tea in a wooden dish, new horn spoons, boiled meat and crullers : he had been in the United States. Their towns hold more people in the same space of ground, than any places I ever saw. Their lodges being posted with scarcely any regularity ; each one building in the man- ner, directions, and dimensions which suits him best, by which means they frequently leave only room for a single man to squeeze between them ; added to this, they have pens for their horses, ell . within the village, into which they always drive them at night, in case, they think, there is any reason to believe there is an enemy lurking in the vicinity. The O^age lodges are generally constructed with upright posts, put firmly in the ground, of about 20 feet in height, with a trotch at the top ; they are generally about 12 feet distant from each other ; in the crotch of those posts, are put the ridge poles, over which are bent small poles, the end of which are brought down and fastened to a row of stakes of about 5 feet in height ; these stakes are fastened jtogether with three horizontal bars, and from tlie flank walls of the lodge. The gable ends are generally broad slabs and rounded off *i * 1 ' S f *M n U AfrPENDIX TO PART II; to the ridge pole. The whole of the building and sides are covered with matting made of rushes, of two or three feet in length, and four feet in width, which are joined together, and entirely exclude the rain. The doors are in the bide t>f the building, and generally are one on each side. The fires are made in holes in the centre of ihe lodge ; the smoke ascending through apertures left in the roof for the purpose ; at one end of the dwelling is a raised platform, f bout three feet from the ground, which is covered with bear skins, and generally holds all the little choice furniture of the master, and on which repose his honorable guests. In feet with neatness and a pleasing companion, they would compose a very comfortable and pleasant summer habitation, but are left in the winter for the woods ; they vary in length from 36 to 100 feet. The Osage nadon is divided into three villages, and in a few years you may say nations, viz^ the Grand Osage* the Little Osage, and those of the Arkansaw. i Tiie Little Oaage separated from the Big Osage, about 100 ^ears since.; and their chiefs on obtaining permisition to ledd forth a colony from tl>e great council of the nation, moved on to the Mis. souri, but after some years finding themselves too hard pressed by their enemies, they again obtained permission to return, and put themselves under the protection of the grand village, and settled down a1}out 6 miles off. (See chart.) The Arkanaaw schism was effected by Mr. Pierre Choteau, 10 or 12 years ago, as a revenge on Mr. Manuel Ue Sezei, who had i obtained from the Spanish government the exclusive trade of the Osage nation, by the way of the Osage river, after its having been in the hands of Mr. Choteau for nearly 20 years. The latter having I the trade of the Arkansaw, thereby nearly rendered abortive thej exclusive privilege of his rival. He has been vainly promising to] the government, that he would bring them back to join the graodi village. But bis reception at the Arkansaw village, in the autumDl of 1806, must have nearly cured him of that idea. And in fact,! every reason induces a belief, that the other villages are much morel likely to join the Arkansaw, (which is daily becoming more power-T ful) than the latter to return to its ancient residence. For the Granilf and Little Osage are both obliged to proceed to the Arkansaw ever] winter, to kill the summer's provision ; also all the nations witl{ whom they are now at war, are situated to the westward of river, and from whence they get all their horses. Those inducel mcnts are such, that the young, the bold) and the enterprising in APPENDIX TO PART II. 13 daily emigrating from the Osage viilage» to the Arkanaaw village. In fact) it would become the interest of our government to encour> age that emigration ; if they intend to encourage the extenuon (ff the ttttlement (f Upper Lotdiiana ; but tf on the contrary (their true poUcy) every method tho^d be taken to prevent their elongation from the Miaaouri. They are considered by the nations to the south and wrest of them) as a brave and warlike nation ; but are by no means a match for the northern nationS) who make use of the rifle) who can com- bat them two for one) whilst they again may fight those armed with bowS) arrowS) and lances at the same disproportion. The humane policy which the United States have held forth to the Indian nationS) of accommodating their differences, and acting as mediators between them, has succeeded to a miracle with the Osage of the Grand village) and the Little Osage. In short) they have be> come a nation of Quakers, as it respects the nations to the north and east of them ; at the same time that they continue to make war «n the naked and defenceless savages of the west. An instance of their forbearance was exhibited by an attack made on a hunting par- ty of the Little OsagC) in the autumn of 1 808, on the grand river of the Osage, by a party of PotowatomieS) who crossed the river Missouri by the SalinC) and found the women and children alone and defenceless. The men) SO or 60, having found plenty of deer (he day before) had encamped out all night. The enemy struck the camp about 10 o'clock in the morning, killed all the women and boys who made resistance, also some infants ; the whole number J, »^ _ amounting to 34, and led into captivity near sixty, forty-six of whom xcUisive trade ot ■^jre afterwards recovered by the United States, and sent under my after Us having be® ■pj^iggtion to the village. When the men returned to the camp, 5. The latter havig«jj^^y found their families all destroyed) or taken prisoners. My nar- ' Bs are covered in length) and ntirely exclude , and generally in the centre of ^ left in the roof raised platform, I with bear skins, ;,lhe master, and mioo) they i»ould sr habitation, but ,n length from 36 ,ges, ai»d in a few s^ihe Little Osage, . Osage, ab«iat 100 Vision to leid forth ,ovedontotheM«- ^ too hard pressed b, n to return, and put I village, and setUed j^r. Pierre Chotej«' ^lUeSezeL^^Viohad endered abortive „ vainly pron^^'^^"^^' Ul^to join the gran Ulage,i«theaatum 'at idea, ^^^'l^''^^, mages are much n.o« coming more powe dence. VortheG^- the Arkansaw evei rator had his wife and four children killed on the spot ! ! and yet in [obedience to the injunctions of their great father, they fotebore to tenge the blow ! ! As an instance of the great influence the French formerly had iver this nation ; the following anecdote may be interesting : Chto- la (alias Wet Stone) aL ittle Osage) " said he was at Braddock's de- feat) with all the warriors who could be spared from both villages : that they were engaged by Mr. M'Cartie, who commanded at fort ^ Chartres, and who supplied them with powder and ball ; that the all the nations "■general place of rendezvous was near a lake and large fall (sup ^e westward o "Ipose Niagara) the Kans did not arrive until after the battle ; bu Those inducf" to ISO the ■horses d the enterprising but Ithat the Otos were present. They were absent from their villages m\% i ,:;11 i: u APPENDIX TO PART II. ** uven moatht ; and were obliged to eat their hones on their re- « turn." AoBicuLTVRE— The Osfge raise large quantities of corn, beans and pumpkins, which thejr manage with the greatest ecuno> injr, in order to make it last from jrear to year. Ail the AgricuUu* ral labor is done by women. FACToaiss— If the government think it expedient to establish fectories for the grand and little villages, equi-distant from both, which would answer for the grand and little villages. The other establishment should be on the Arkansaw, near the entrance of the Verdigrise river* (as stated by Lt. Wilkinson) for the Aikansaw Osage. The Pawnees are a numerous nation of Indians, who reside on the rivers Platte and Kans ; they are divided into three distinct na> dons, two of them being now at war ; but their manners, language, customs* and improvements, are in the same degree of advance* ment. On the La Platte, reside the grand Pawnee village, and the Paw> nee loups on one of its branches, witlk whom the Pawnee Republic cans are at war. Their language is guttural, and approaches nearer to the Ian* guage of the Sioux, than the Osage, and their figure tall, slim, and high cheek bones, clearly indicate their Asiatic origin ; but their emigration south, and the ease with which they live on the I buffalo plains, have probably been the cause of a degeneracy of manners, for they are neither so brave nor honest, as their more [ northern neighbors. Their government is the same as the Osage, an hereditary aristocracy ; the father handing his dignity of chiefJ .tain down to his son ; but their power is extremely limited, notwithj standing the long life they have to establish their authority and in* fluence. They merely recommend, and give counsel in the greatj assemblage of the nation. They are not so cleanly, neither do they carry their internal pol licy so far as the Osage ; but out of the bounds of the village, itf appeared to me, that they exceeded them ; as I have frequently seeij two young soldiers come out to my camp, and instantly disperse i hundred persons, (by the strokes of long whips) who were assenj bled there to trade with my men. In point of cultivation, they are about equal to the Osage, ing a sufficiency of corn and pumpkins, to afford a little thickenii to their soup during the year.- APPENDIX TO PART II. t% on th«lr vt- kUtie* of co™» greateit econo- I the AgricuUu- licnttoestabUsh itant from both, gc9. The other e entrance of the or the Ai tanaaw m», vrho reside on three distinct na- manners, language, legree of advance- iUage,andthePaw; e Pawnee RepubU- ■s nearer to the Ian- ,eir figure tall, aUm, . Asiaucorisinjbttti Uich they Uve on the of a degeneracy on ^onest, as their mo« same as the Osage, his dignity of cbKt ,ely limited, notwth. ,eir authority and in-l counsel in the gre« Larry their intemalH aunds of the village. •« -1 have frequently »«« L instantly disperse [hips) v»ho were assem] Lai to the Osage, Ifford a little thickens Their pumpkin thdjr cut into thin ftlices» tnd drjr it in dit tuni which redvcei it to a small abtei uul net more than a tenth of itt original weight. With respect to ndlsing hotseay the Pawnee* are Jar. superior to the Osage, having Tast quantities of excellent Iwraes which they are daily increasingf by their attention to their breeding mares» which they never make use of; and in additioD) flvquently purohaae from the Spai^ards. Their houses are a perfect circle, (except where the door en* ters) from whence there is a projection of about 15 feet ; the whole being constructed after the following manner, via t Ut. there ia an excavation of a circular form, made in the ground, of about 4 feet deep and 60 diameter, where there is a row of posts about 5 feet high, with crotches at the top, set firmly in all round, and horizon- tal poles from one to the other. There is then a row of posts, form- ing a circle of about 10 feet width in the diameter of the others, and 10 feet in height.; the crotches of those are so directed, that hori- xontal poles are also laid from one to the other; long poles are then laid slanting, perpendiculariy from the lower poles over the upper, and meeting neariy at the top, leaving only a small aperture for the smoke of the fire to pass out, which is made on the ground in the middle of the lodge. There is then a number of small poles put up round the circle, so as to form the wall, and wicker work ran through the whole. The roof is then thatched with grass, and earth thtiown up against the wall untU a bank is made to the eves ?f the thatch ; and that is also covered with earth one or two feet thick* and rendered so tight, as entirely to exclude any storm whatsoever^ and make them extremely warm. The entrance is about 6 feet \yide, with walls on each side, and roofed like our houses in shape, but of the same materials as the main building. Inside there are nuonerous Utde apartments constructed of wicker work against the wall with small doors ; they have a great appearance of neatness and in them the members of the family sleep and have their little [deposits. Their towns are by no means so much crowded as the jOsage, giving much more space, but they have the same mode of introducing all their horses irio the village at night, which makes it xtremely crowded. They keep guards with the horses during [he day. They are extremely addicted to gaming, and have for at purpose a smooth piece of ground cleared out on each side of le village for about ISO yards in length, at which they play tiie fol< >wing games, viz : one is played by two players at a time, and in le following manner : They have a large hoop of about four feet U m 16 APPENDIX TO PART II. IS •1 ■ i '■'■I I- ditmeter, in the e«ntre of which is a tmall leather ring attached to leather thongst which is extended to the hoopf and by that means keeps it in its central position ; they also have a polo of about 6 feet in length, which the player holds in one hand, and then rolls the hoop from him, and immediately slides the pole after it, and the nearer the head of the pole lies to the small ring within the hoop, (when they both fall) the greater is the cast. But I could not ancer" tain their mode of counting, sufficiently to decide when the game wasvtFon. > Another game is played with a small stick, with several hooks, and a hoop about four inches diameter, which is rolled along the ground, and the forked stick darted after it, when the value of the cast is estimated by the hook on which the ring is caught. This game is gained at 100. The third game alluded to, is that of La Platte, described by various travellers, and is played at by the wo- men, children, and old men, who like grasshoppers, crawl out to the circus to bask in the sun, probably covered only with an old buffalo robe. 1 The Pawnees, like the Osage, quit their villages in the winter, roakinR concealments underground of their com, in which it keeps perfectly sound tmtil spring. The only nations with whom the Pawnees are now at vrar, are the Tetaus, Utahs, and Kyawayt, The two latter of whom reside in the mountains of North Mexico, and shall be treated of, when I speak of the Spanish Indians. The former generally inhabit the borders of the Upper Red river, Ar. kaniaw, and Rio del Norte. The war has been carried on by those nations for yean, with- out any decisive action being fought, although they frequently march with 2 or 300 men. . The Pawnees have mUch the advantage of their enemies in point of arms, having at least one half fire arms, whilst their oppo- nents have only bows, arrows, lances, shields and slings. The Pawnees always march to war on foot, their enemies are I all cavalry. This nation may be considered as the one equi-distant| between the Spanish population, and that of our settlements of Lou- biana, but are at present decidedly under Spanish influence, audi should a war commence to-morrow, would all be in their interest.! This circumstance does not arise from their local situation, because] they are all situated on navigable waters of the Missouri ; nor froml their interest, because from the Spaniards they obtain nothing exf cept horses and a few coarse blankets of W. Mexico ; whilst from us they receive all their supplies of arms, ammunition, and clothingl W™! APPENDIX TO PART II. IT alttcbedto ^ th»tw«M>» [ about t feet then roWs ihe .y U» •nd the ouWnotwcer- rhen the game ft several hooks, oUed along the the value of the » caught. Thh to, i» that of U ^edatbythe>»o- ,,crav»louttothe ,ith an old buffalo jKea in the Winter, .invrhkhUkeep. ,„av»ith whemtHc ahs, and l^y^^T of North Mexico, ,n»h Indians. The Ippcr Red river, Ar- lona for years, vtitb" ,ey frequenUy ma'^»» lof their cnemie* in ,s,vrhilst their oppo- Ind slings, at, their enewies ate s'theoneequi^i^*^"^ r8cttlementsofLo«- panish inauence, «« Jibe in their interest.! ocal situation, bec^ ^e Missouri ; nor from but all those •rticles in very small qumtitiet, not more than h«lf having a blanliet, and many without breech clothe to cover their na- kedness. But the grand principle by irhich the Spaniards keep them in their influence, is fear } frequently chaatiring their small parties on their frontiers. Their sending out the detachment of 600 horse- men in 1806. has made such an impression, that they may safely calculate on them in case of war. This detachment took with them some of the Pawnees to Chi« huahiua, at the same time I entered the Spanish provinces. But, by withholding their supplies of arms, ammunition, and clothing one or two years, bringing on their backs the Osage and Kant, they would be in great distress, and feel the necessity of a good understanding with the Ignited States. If there should ever be factories established for their accomo- dation, they should be at the entrance of the La Platte and Kani rivera, as those waters are of so uncertain navigation, (only in freshes) that it would be folly to attempt any permanent establish* ments high up them ; and to make those establiihments useful to ihe Pawnees, we must presuppose our influence suflicient to gua- rantee to them peace and a safe passage through the nations of tho Kans, Otos, and Missouries ; the former on the Kans river; the two latter on the river Platte. My journey will give various other striking traits of the national character of the Pawnees, and my dis- sertation on the subject of the Spanish claims, will further elucidate the political and relative situation of that nation. The Kans are a small nation, situated on the river of that name (see the chart) and are in language, manners, customs, and agricul- tural pursuits, precisely similar to tlte Osage : with whom I believe them, as before observed, to have had one common origin. It may be said, however, that their language differs in some gree, but not more than the dialect ot our eastern states^ differs from that pf the southern. But in war, they are yet more brave than their Osage brethren, ing (although not more than one third their number; their most ^aded enemies, and frequently making the Pawnees tremble. The Tetaus^or Camanche, as the Spaniards term them, Padouf isby the Pawnees, are a powerful nation, which are entirely erratic, thout the least species of cultivation, and subsisting solely by the asc. But their wanderings are confined to the frontiers of New bey obtain nothing ^^j^j^.^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ . ^^^ nations on the Lower Red river on the S. B ' tsi '■•' i |;i ' m n M. 1 ■''if I;:- m Mexico ; imunition, whilst froi and cloUVm?! : Pawnees and Qsage on the £. an4 the Utahs, Kyaways, and vari< API'EKWX. TO PART »• _!. -1— u claimed ^xo*tt*»^'y "^ '"^ ^TT .k« few who kMlf '^ They ««*•«»''""" "..„1^p.„d.ntpoo»to. Th., „^ .Met. *"V""t:^i;., ind.»lVh.y h.«g»«" «•»« ..w.r. b«. a-., «««* ^^ ^U„ ,Ub t.» S,«»r^ invasion of that provinot, wnwi w From th. vUtag* *«"»*^""' Jh,, „.w h.« ■"> """"" „„d.n«™«ng will. tl« »»*"»^^ jr„ u««.«,. H. lHir«>»-ly » .nd .ppointed « ii<»> «»' ""/"T^.L„„ with 500 m«i>, »«"' ,i;«h.rth..in>«n..t»c. """"^^Jl ^^ respect .hiehft. ,gr.e*ly to .1.0 be.t '»'»'"''"°^°°„„i „t ,h. naUoo. With wb.ch ^L ".--VU:. d^tXV ::d..t.naoo.n .diff.™ ^bi«e..P<'6""'»';7'p,„, cpt. l.tU.S.R.g..I«fty' Am«f beMU 5p«iii«h settle, people. They ^ve gW*n tV»em enure* the pro. .ted Vitt«ge» and the Teteue i» « UbU»«SpMftard. ,Wy,^meaoffat ,,ve an ewellent ,cun«lo MeW^«; ^. Heperwneily foUovring «»*""*''• Br»s epproximauon, vehitnottanexwn- ,i,l,500nie«,a«on ,o ptindpal oftce«, tbeV"**^:'?^' Mtto the iu'^^''*'^M eTdowntotheUieU ,d respect v^hichth. Margate had poUc, ,,pediuon pnncip»»l? ,tmcetViiha«y°l4 «cribe their manncrJ I shall include theoi their nation* ,c nation, ^ithi^lnch conceive the SpH attentioo in a diffew^ icceeded ^ith their n Lai «tc«n^**"""*;i U, customs, P'»^»P^1 Lu-SRegt-lnfty. vu; A..4.H G'>WOra>iJi . . .UU.il.i .yijn , i i . I !t THE following Report was written by lieutenant Wilkinson, at a time when it was expected I had been cut off by the savages ; it consequently aHuded to transactions relative to the expedition previous to our separation, which I have since corrected : but the adventures of his party, afier our separation, are given in his own words. 7. M. PIKE. ^-'i- .1 w CNo.2. 3 LIEUTENANT V7ILKINSON*S REPORT : + . I •- OF HIS PASSAGE DOWN THE ARKANSAW, &c. 'trr. ■>*i''^-iM''ft^-i'^ii " r'^\v:\ m^'^' Mvf-Orieana,Jfirit 6, 1607. Sir, ' '■''■'■_ i'-^y^i' ^ ' «- We reached the village of Ti.r. P°towatomie». ■^-^c. on ,h. righ, J ; "' '» P«» fore) were met by a number of warriors, whom curiosity had led thus far to see us, among whom was the third consequential charac' ter of the republican party,; for you must know that the village is composed of the followers of a dissatisfied warrior, who first made this establishment, and the adherents of a regular chief of the Grand Pawnees, who migrated thither some few years since with his family, and usurped the power of the rcfuiblican warrior To such a pitch does this party spirit prevail that you easily perceive the hostility which exists between the adherents of the two chiefs. Early on the morning of the 25th we were joined by a few more I savages of distinction, headed by the brother of C/iaractemh, or the IV/iite Wolf^ chief of the nation, who was to act as master of the J ceremonies to our formal entry. Preparatory to our march, we had 1 our men equipped as neatly as circumstances would admit. AbootI mid-day we reached the summit of a lofty chain of ridges, where! we were requested to halt and wait the arrival of the chief, who was! half a mile from us, with three hundred horsemen, who were gene-f rally naked (except bufTulo robes and breech cloths) and painted witlij white, yellow, blue, and black clay. At the word of the chief tbq warriors divided, and pushing on at full speed, flanked us on thj right and left, yelling in a most diabolical manner. The chief i vanced in front, accompanied hy Iskatafifie^ or the Rich Man^Hn second great personage of the village, and his two sons, who weij clothed in scarlet cloth. They approached slowly, and when withij a hundred yards, the three latter halted, and Characterish advano in great state, and when within a few paces of us, stretched out I hand and cried «' Bon jour." Thus ended the first ceremony. \fl moved on about a mile farther, and having gained the summit ofl considerable hill, wc discovered the village directly at its base. \i here were again halted, and the few Osages who accompaniedf were ordered in front and seated in rank entire. The chief squj ted on his hums in front of them and filled a calumet, which scvej different Indians took from him, and handed the Osages to smoj This was called the /lorse'smolce, as each person who took the APPENDIX TO PART Tt. t8 ,f.0 vf veached laedtoftBdour. BWeeo thw and nost deetivule o£ the tow** °^ ^^® W© (the day be- curiosity had kd jaequentiftl charac , that the village is cior, who first ma*e .„ular clttcf of the ew years since v»ilh iblican warrior To t you easily perceive its of the two chiefs, loinedby afewtnore r of Charactemh, or to act as master of Ae , to our march, we had ,^ould admit. About htdn of ridges, >vhere I of the chief, who «as emen,who were gene. loths)andpamted^.j v,ord of the chief th. manner. The chief j ■! or the Rich Man^\i U two sons, who >»^ slowly, and when w«b I Characterish advan« of us, stretched out the first ceremony. ^J gained the summits lirectlyatitsbase.J .es who accompanie ntire The chief sqa :riumet, which so. L,ed the usages toj' person who took the fh)m the chief intended -^resenting the Osages a horse. Mr. Pike did Dr. Robinson nf>; da accompanied the chief to his lodge, and I moved on with t ; detachment and formed our camp on the opposite bank of the republican fork of the Kanses river, on a com> manding hill, which had been selected as the most favorable utua> tion for making observations, though very inconvenient on account of wood and water, which we had to transport nearly a quarter of a mile. At a council held some few days after our arrival, liieutenant Pike explained to them the difference of their present situation, and that of a few years past ; that now they must look up to the prcu- dent of the United States as (heir great father, and that he had been sent by him to asure them of his good wishes, Sec. &c. ; that he per- ceived a Spanish flag flying at the council lodge door, and was anxi- ous to exchange one of their great father's for it, and that it was our intention to proceed on further to the westward, to examine this our newly acquired country. To this a singular and extraordinary re- sponse was given«-~in fact, an objection, started in direct opposition to our proceeding further to the west ; however they gave up the Spanish flag, and we had the pleasure tO aele the American standard hoisted in its stead. At the same council Characterish observed that a large body of Spaniards had lately been at his viUage, and that they promised to return and build a town adjoining his. The Spanish chief, he said) mentioned that he was not empowered to council with him ; that he came merely to b|;pak the road for his master, who would visit him in the spruig with a large army, and that he further told him the Americans were a little people, but were enterprising, and one of those days would stretch themselves even to his town, and that thej^ took the lands of Indians and would drive off their game ; and how very true, says Characterish, has the Spanish chieTtain spoken ! Wc demanded to purchase a few horses, which was prohibited us, and the friendly communication which had existed between the town and our camp was stopped. The conduct of our neighbours as- sumed a mysterious change ; our guards were several times alarm- |c(], and finally appearances became so menacing an to make it ne- ssary for us to be on our guard day and night. It was obvious that the body of Spaniards who preceded us lut a few weeks in their mission to this village, were the regular lavalry and infantry of the province of Santa Fee, as they had formed leir camps in regular order, and we were informed they kept regu* guards, and that the beats of their drum were uniform morning •jr- ;iv id: M t)^ \s>>^ 9% APPENPIX TO PART II. Ij:t y^.m I - t.ti:M{ and evening. The Spanish leaderi further, delivered to Character- iah a grand medal, two mutes, and a commission bearing the signs- ture of the governor, civil and military, of Santa Fee. He also had simifar marks of distinction for the Grand Pawnees, the Pawnee Mahaws, Mahaws Proper, Otos and Kansas. On the 6th of October we made some few purchases of mi- serablc horses at the most exorbitant prices, and on the 7th, un- moved by the threats of the chief relative to our proceeding far- ther to the west, we m&rched in a close and compact body until we passed their village, and took the large Spanish beaten trace for the Arkansaw river. We passed the following day, an encampment of the Spaniards, where we counted sixty-nine fires. On the 9th, as usual, made an easy march, and about noon, when we halted to re- fresh ourselves, were overtaken by three hundred Pawnees, on their way to the salines of the Kanses to hunt bulTalo. Their every act shewed a strong disposition to quarrel, and iri fact they seemed to court hostility ; but, finding us without fear and prepared, to a man, they offered no outrage, and having grazed our horses an hour, we parted from this turbulent band, slung our packs and proceeded on to Solomon's Fork of the Kanses, and pitched our tents on an old encampment of the Spaniards, whose trace we were following, as we found the next morning many tent-pins made of wood, difTerent from any in that country. At midnlay lieutenant Pike, Dr. Robin- son, and the interpreter Baroney, pushed on to search for water, and I remained with the troops. I pushed on as briskly as our poor half-famished horses would permit, and at night fall could discover nothing of Mr. Pike, and had not a tree in view. This induced me | to quicken my pace, and, as darkness had rendered my compass use* less, I coursed by the polar star ; but the horizon becoming overcast)! I halted oa a naked stony prairie, without water or grass for ourl horses. On the following morning I directed my course more tol the southward, and about ten o'clock came to the creek and en<[ campment of lieutenant Pike. Late in the evening of the samel day, after passing over a mountainous tract of country, we reacbeii| the Grand Saline, which we found so strongly impregnated, as to[ render unpalatable com, when boiled in it. On the 1 2th after a ( tressing day's march, we reached the Second, or Small Saline, and on the following day encamped on the most western branch of thj Kanses river. We were detained, on the morning of the 1 3th, by a small raiij but as time was pressing, we marched about noon, crossed the ( viding ridge of the Kanses and Arkansaw rivers, and halted on] APPENDIX TO PART 11. »f [ to Character- ling the signa- ,. He also had 58, the Pawnee t small branch of the latter. For several days past we had been ao bewildered by buffalo paths, that we lost the Spanish tracO} and this being an object of momentt we resolved to make search for it. Ac* cordingly, on the following day at noon, Mr. Pike and Dr. Robinson struck off from the party a due west course, and I marched the de- tachment for a copse of wood, which we could barely discern in the south-west, and reached it about midnight. At day-break I was awoke by my old and faithful Osage, who informed me that we were on the banks of the Arkansaw river. I immediatly arosC) and dis- covered my tent to have been pitched on the margin of a water- course, nearly four hundred yards wide, with banks not three feet high, and a stream of water running through it about twenty feet in width, and not more than six or eight inches deep. I remained here four day^s in great anxiety and suspence, as neither Mr. Pike nor Dr. Robinson mode their appearance, nor could be found, although I had all my hunters out in search of them. But I was agreeably surprised on the fifth day, early in the morning, by their arrival. It appeared our apprehensions were mutual, as they expected I had been cut off, and I believed they had been mur- dered. On the 17th it commenced raining and continued for sevenU days, during which time the river rose so much as to fill its bed, from bank to bank ; and lieutenant Pike having determined that I should descend the Arkansaw, we cut down a small green cotton- wood, and with much labor split out a canoe, which being insufii- dent, we formed a second of buffalo and elk skins. After the rain had ceased the weather became extremely cold) and on the 27th, in the evening, a severe snow-storm commenced, and continued nearly all night. In the morning the river was almost choaked with drifting ice ; but the sun bursting out at noon, the ice d my course more ■^gj^ppQai.ej^ an j I took leave of Mr. Pike, who marched up the the creek a"" |riveratthe moment I embarked on board my newly constructed oe ; but, unfortunately, we had not proceeded more than one hun- Ired yards when my boats grounded, 'and the men were obliged to Irag them through sand and ice five miles, to a copse of woods on e south-western bank. I here hauled up my canoe, formed a kind „. ^f a cabin of it, and wrapped myself up in my buffalo robe, dis- western branch ol ^eartcned and dissatisfied with the commencement of my voyage. he night was severely cold, and in the morning the river was so .e 1 3th, by a small '"'^n of ice as to prevent all possibility of proceeding. The day con- t noon, crossed ^"^"miued stormy, witli snow from the north-west, rivers, and halted onF urchasea of mi- onthe 7th, un- proceeding far- act body until we jaten trace for the in encampment rf On the 9th, as In we halted tote- pawnees, on their Their every act fact they wemed to prepared, to a man, horses an hour, we ks and proceeded on I our tents on an old e were following, as e of wood, different nt Pike, Dr. Robin, arch for water, and briskly as our poot t fall could discovei This induced me lered my compass use. becoming overcast, an Iter or grass for out! to , evening of the sam f country, we reached! w impregnated, as « ■nthel2thafterad« Small Saline, aw or ■M I ■in ■'I ■i m m ■■». ^n.; 1 APPENDIX TO PART 11. M' S On the 30th the river was frozen up, and towards evening the water had ran off*, and left the bed of the river covered with ice. This circumstance determined me to leave my canoes and course the river by land. Accordingly, on the 3 1 st of October, after having thrown away all my clothing and provision, except half a dozen tin cups of hard com for each man, I slung my rifle on my shoulder, and with my buffalo robe at my back and circumferentor in my h^nd, I recommenced my march with a light and cheerful heart. My only apv.^ehension was the meeting with detached bands of the Paw- nees, who, I am confident, would have brought me and my five men to action, and the consequence was very obvious.' On the 1st, 2d, and 3d of November I marched over high and barren hills of sand, and at the close of each day, passed strongly impregnated salines, and perceived the shores of the river to be com- pletely frosted with nitre. The face of the country, as I descended, looked more desolate than above, the eye being scarcely able to dis- cern a tree ; and if one was discovered, it proved to be a solitary cotton-wood, stinted in growth by the sterility of the soil. The evening of the 9d instant I encamped on the bank of the river, without a tree or even a shrub in view. On the 4th we experienced a heavy rain; but hunger and cold pressed me forward. After marching ten miles I reached a small tree, where I remained in a continued rain for two days, at the expiration of which time having | exhausted my fuel, I had again to push off in a severe storm, and I formed my camp at the mouth of a bold running stream, whose j northern bank was skilled by a chain of lofty ridges. On the 8th, in the morning, it having cleared up, I began nyj march early, and it appeared as if we had just gotten into the regiool of game) for the herds of buffalo, elk, goat, and deer surpassed cre-f dibility. I do solemnly assert, that, if I saw one, I saw more than) nine thousand buffalos during the day^s march. On the 10th, in the evening, after a severe day's march, I en-j camped on the bank of a large creek, and discovered, for the first] time, on the river, a species of wood differing from the cotton tre 1 assure you the sight was more agreeable than a person would im» giiie : it was like meetings with an old acquaintance, from whom yoi had been separated a length of time ; I even began to think mysell approximating civilized settlements, although 1 was just enterioJ on the hunting ground of the Osages. The buffalo and goats disappeared on the 1 2th, or rather hiad passed their range and entered that of the deer only. Qi APPENDIX TO PART II. if da evening the ,ercd vfUh »ce. ,068 and course ,er, after having half a dozen tin on tny shoulder, jntovinmyhM erful heart. My bands of the Paw 5 and my five tncn •bed over high and iy, passed strongly tie river tobe corn- try, as I descended, scarcely able to di8. ,edtobe a solitary y of the soil. Ihe e bank of the river, ^,,,.eexpenencd n,e forward. Alter Iherelremainedina ,f ^hich time having a severe storm, an* aueam, whose marches now lay through rich narrow bottomsi from one hundred and fifty, to two hundred yards wide. On the 1 5th discovering timber sufficiently large to form ca- noes, I felled a couple of trees, and commenced afilitting out, I would have proceeded further by land, but as my men were almost worn out with fatigue, and as the game grew scarce, I conceived it most adviseable to rest for a short time, and kill my winter's store of meat This I effected by the 24th, and on the same day com- pleted the canoes. On the 25th I again attempted the navigation of the river, but was as unfortunate as at first, for my boat grounded, after floating a few hundred yards, and the men were consequently compelled to ply with their shoulders instead of their paddies. The following day I passed the Negracka, at whose mouth commence the craggy cliffs, which line a great part of the shores of the Arkansaw. On the 28th the provision canoe oversat, and I lost nearly all my stock of meat ; this accident was rendered the more distressing by an almost total loss of my ammunition, which unfortunately was in the same canoe. On the 30th, I fell in with a band of Grand Osages, who were in pursuit of buffalo cows ; the chief of the party insisted on my remaining with him a day, and sent out his young men to hunt for me. In the afternoon two Indians of the Little Osage nation joined us, with a horse and mule, and brought me a message from Tuttasuggy, or the Wind, who it appeared was lying very ill, about twenty miles across the prairie, and wished to see me. As he was a particular favorite of mine, 1 left my canoes in charge of the men, one, ire innmg L.dtfes. d «P» ^ began tny leare v ^^^ i-egionBand passed \»ith a guide to the chief's temporary village. I found uroassed cre«B Mm extremely unwell, with what I conceived to be a dropsy, for 1 w more thaal his abdomen was very much swollen. He seemed gratified at the sight of me, and observed, " That he was poor and pitiful, for the • march, I en-Breason that he was a friend to the Americans. He said that Chou- d for the firsflteau after he had arrived at their villages last full, had treated him ° the cotton tretftke a child, and had taken on to Washington his younger brother • ' '""'^Nezumay or the rain that walks, and intended making him chief of |he nation ; that Chouteau told him he was a bad man, was an Ame- can, but that the Spaniards were going to war v ith America, and at in a short time they would claim all this country again." That prevented the traders allowing a credit, whereby his family were uch distressed, as I clearly perceived, for ihcy were even desti- te of a whole blanket. he trout v..~ - ... .1 an a person would un* „w„c., from whom y« began to think myse .gh 1 was just enterini rather Uheiath, orr of tl^e ^""^^ °"^y' ^ 'Si 'J :r-te 1 i < ;i 28 APPENDIX TO PART II. 'iM^h This JVezutnoi whom Chouteau took on to Washington last TaN with his wife, I am better acquainted with) than perhaps Mr. Chou« teau himself. In the first place, I marched with him from St. Louis to his town, and he started with us to visit the Pawnees, but the mean and pitiful wretch, got alarmed and sneaked off without even advising us of his departure. He has no more command in the vil. lage than a child, is no warrior, and has not even the power to con> troul the will of a single man of his nation. Whether this youth is entitled to a grand medal, you may judge from the foregoing state- ment. Indeed, sir, our grand medals have become so common, that they do not carry with them the respect which they should. I recollect one of the deputation who was at the seat of government, the year before the last, came out with a large medal, and an inter- mediate sized one. On our arrival at the villages, I calculated on his acting a conspicuous part, but to my utter astonishment, he was not permitted to sit among the chiefs, or even the warriors at the council. You well know, sir, how particular the Spaniards, and the British especially, have been in their distribution of medals, and if I mis* take not, an Iowa chiefi who had been to the seat of government, and there received a small medal, returned it in preference to giv- ing up a large British medal, as he valued it more because it was a certain distinguishing mark of a chief. You gave to Mr. Pike an intermediate size^' medal, for one of j the Pawnee chiefs, which he presented Iskatappe* who having,, remarked the medals pendant from the necks of the two Pavmet young metiy who were on at Washington, demanded of what utiUty it vfould be to him. The only Spanish medals in the Fawnee nation, | are those worn by Characterish, or the White Wolf and his son. The following sarcastic remark was made by the son of the I " Bel Oiseau," a chief of the first standing among the Grandl Osages whilst living, and who unfortunately was killed by the Sacij on his way to Washington with the first deputation. The son of White Hairs, with <' Shenga Wassa," or Beautijii Bird, was to accompany us to the Pawnee village ; but the formeij proved recreant, and at the crossing of Grand River, said he woull return home. '^ Shame on you," says the latter, " what a pity it ij « so great and honorable a medal, should be disgraced by so mean[ « heart." You will pardon this digression, but I would wish to convincj you, from what I have seen of Indians, how very requisite it is i ;i' APPENDIX TO PART 11. «« use the tiftnost caution in tb« diitribution of our presents and marks of distinction. Before I set out to visit Tuttasu^gy, the ice had commenced drifting in large sheets, and on my return, I found it running from"* shore to shore, I however pushed off and drifted with it. The night of the 3d of December was intensely cold, but hunger obliged me to proceed, and we fortunately reached the mouth of the Neskalonska, river, without accident or injury, ex- cepting that one of my men got frosted. This day we passed two sftlines which enter on the south western side. The severity of the weather increased, and the river froze over on the morning of the 3d. This circumstance placed me in a situ- ation truly distressing, as my men were almost naked ; the tatters which covered them were comfortless, and my ammunition was nearly exhausted. The men solicited me to hut, but I was resolved by perseve- rance and exertion, to overcome, if in my power, the obstacles op- posed to my progress. The Neskalonska, is about 130 yards wide, shoal and narrow at its mouth, but deepens and spreads after you turn the first point On this stream, the Grand and Little Osages form their temporary fall hunting camps, and take their peltries. When the severity of winter sets in, the Grand Osages retire to " Groaae Isle^'* on the Verdigrise, or Wasctihoge ; and the Little Osages to one of its small branches called Possitonga, where they remain during the hard weather, and from thence return to their towns on the Neska, or Omi^"* river. On the 6th the ice began to drift, and immediately pushed off ivith it ; but as my evil stare would have i|^ my boats again ground- ltd, and being in the middle of the river, my only alternative was to get out and drag them along for several miles, when we halted to g among ^^^ ^^^^W^""^ ^^^ benumbed feet and hands. The next day several large vras luUed by tne ■cakes of ice had blocked up the river, and we had to cut our way Illation. .•AB'ii^ugh them with axes } the boats as usual grounded, and the men Wassa," o'^ * ^"^ legged and bare footed, were obliged to leap into the water. This kuag* • ^^^ .Bappened so frequently, that two more of my men got badly frosted, ltd River, said ne ^^ ^ q^^ ^I^^ g^j^ ^^^ ^^ ^ canoes was driven on a bank of ice, du- ng a snow storm, and did not overtake me until the evening of the ^h, and in so shattered a condition, that she could hardty be kept ove water, and the poor fellows who were in her, Were almost ozcn. ingtonlastfaH aps Mr. Chou- from Si. Louis wnces, but the If ^^bouteven roand'mt^c^i^- le power to con- Lher this youth 18 > foregoing state- me so coTOtnon, htbeyahottW. 1 at of governmenl, edal, vind an inter- B8, I calculated on onisbment, he was the warriors at the ards, and the British ,edals,andif^"'"; seaiof go^e^'"""^?*' ^„ preference to giv- more because it «as «.. medal, for one oi latappe, -^o hanag o of the <«« ^°'^" andedofvrhatut^^S inthelavrneenauon, ro// and his son. ■tter, « what a pity ^^1 fcacedbysomean UouldWishtocom>^ very requisite it" tr 6': i»i 30 APPENDIX TO PART II. SIS',. Oh the lOtb, about noon, I passed the Grand Saline, or the Mvftewketonga, which is a reddish color, though its water is very clear. About two days march up this river, you find the prairie ' grass on the S. W. side incrusted with salt, and on the N. E. bank, fresh water springs, and lakes abounding with fish. This salt the Arkansaw Osages, obtain by scraping it ofT of the prairie with a turkey's wing into a wooden trencher. The river does not derive its name from its saline properties, but the quantities that may always be found- on its banks, and is at all seasons of the year potable. On the 20th in the afternoon, we passed another saline with water equally as red as the Mwaeivketonga, and more strongly im* pregnated with salt. After encountering every hanlship, to which a voyage is sub« ject in small canoes, at so inclement a season of the year, I arrived on the 23d inst. in a storm of hail and snow, at the wintering camp of Cashesegra, or •< Big Track" chief of the Osages, who reside on Verdigrisc rivers. On the following day I gave him your talk, and received his reply, which it is unnccessai7 to recount fully, ai it was merely a description of his poverty and miserable situation, He however said, that he had been informed, the United States in> tended erecting factories, on the Osage river, and that he was anxi- ous to have one near to his own village, and for the purpose, he wai willing to give the United States the tract of country lying between the Verdigrise and Grand rivers. A factory with a garrison of troops stationed there, would answer the double purpose of keeping in order those Indians, who are the most desperate and profligate partHof a of the whole nation, and more fully impressing them with an idea|(/ie of our consequence, and gaining more firmly their friendship. It also would tend to preserve harmony among the Chactaws, Creeks,nnd oil Cherokees, and Osages ot the three diflerent villages, who are ini|nien( constant state of warfare, and further it would prevent the Osagei making excursions into the country of the poor and peaceably dii posed Caddoes, and might have some eflect in confining the Sj niards to their own territorial limits. On the 37th I passed the mouths of the Verdigrisc and Grai rivers, the former being about a hundred, and the latter one hund and thirty yards wide ; those streams enter within a quarter of mile of each other. Below the mouth of Grand river, comme the rapids, which continue for several hundred miles down the kansaw. About 58 or 60 miles up the Verdigrise, is situate the Osafl'iif>-e, village. This band some four or five years since, were led by ^^fy APPENDIX TO PART II. 91 Saline, or the B w»ier It very find the pra\rte xheN. E.^n^» J. This Bait the je prairie viih a r doea not derive entitle* that may ftheyc»'^P°^^^'' .other aaline vrith more atrongly m- h a voyage ia wb- the year, I arrived ^e wintering camp Oaagea,v,hore«e cave him your talk, , to recount fuUy»M > n^iserable situation, the United State* in- a„dthathev,aaj«- .the purpose. ^«^" ountrylyi»8hetv»«n PV withag«'^"°''.''M le purpose of keew ,ate and profligate pan ,n,themv.ithanH y their friendship. Itl he Chactaws, Creeps, viUages, >vho are ma ,W prevent the Osage ■^^Jand peaceably d^ in confining the 5>p. .VerdigriscandGi tithe latter one hunrti L ^vithin a quarter oi Land river, corome« Ld miles down the |i,e, is situate the a ' since, were led by cliief Caahesegra, to the intin of the Arkenttw, «t the request of Pierre ChodteAu, fbr th6 purpbfte of securing their trade. 1 he txctutive trade of the Otage riveri having at that time been pur> chased from tlie Spanish governor, bjr Manuel Lisa, of St. Louts, but though Cashettgm be the nominil leader ; Clermont, or the Builder qf Towntj is the greatest warrior, and most influential man, and is now more firmly attached to the interests of the Americans, tlian any other chief of the nation. He is the lawful sovereign of the Grand Osages, but his hereditary right was usurped by Pahuska, or mite Hiiir^ whilst Clermont was yet an infant. White Hair, in fact, is a chief of Choiiteau's creating, as well as Cashesegra, and neither have the power, or disposition to restrain their young men from the perpetration of an improper act, fearing least they should render themselves unpopular. ' On the 39th I passsed a fall of near seven feet perpendicular, and at evening was visited by a scout from an Osage war party, and received from them a man by the name of M*Farlane, who had been trapping up the Pottoe. We passed about noon this day, the mouths of the river des Illinois, which enters on the N. E. side, ind the Canadian river, which puts in from the S. W. The latter river is the main branch of the Arkansaw, and is equally as large. On the 3 1 St I passed the mouth of Pottoe, a deep, though narrow stream, which puts in on the S. W. and alM> the river au •< Millieu" that enters from the N. E. On the evening of the 6th January I reached the plantation of a Mr. Labomme, and was more inhospitably treated than by the '- vages themselves. On the 8th passed the two upper Arkansaw or Quapaw villages, and on the 9th, after passing the lower Quapaw town, and a settle* ent of Chactaws, arrived at the post of Arkansaw. The surface of the country between the Osage towns and the awnee village is generally broken and naked ; the soil sterile, and unding with flint and lime stones. As you approach the waters if the Kanses, it becomes hilly and sandy ; the same may be said of e country between the Pawnee village and the Arkansaw, but after issing the ridge which separates the waters of the Kanses and Ar- insaw, the surface becomes more regular and less stoney. Below the Verdigrise, the shores of the Arkansaw are gene* illy lined with cane, and consequently rich bottoms. I was inform- by the Indians (.hat the country to the north west of the Osage lai);c, abounds with valuable lead mines, but I could make no dis' ery of any hody of mineral. .1/ i. & Pi' n APPENPIX TO PART U. Vi'S -.' The survey from the Arkenuw poit to the MiMuiippi, I Imu U not correctt m I wm ro ill when I deiccnde4 thtt pin of the river, e« tp be confined to my blenliet. The chert which eccoinpiniM thie report, of the course of the ArkanMW, I hope will prove letivfactorjr, not only to y«iirwlf, bi:^ the president. I hftve the honor to svbscribo mytelf. Your ftithfel end obliged Humbl« end obedient servanti (Signed) Jamxi B. WiLxivsoir, lit lieut. 3d U. S. Regt. of Infantry His cxeellency GeneralJame» Wilkituorit (Commander in chief of the U. S. «rmy. [ No. 3. 3 St. Chttrlea, \7thJutyt 1106. Dear Sin, WE arrived here hst evening all well, except some of tk soldiers from fatigue, as in the present sUte of the water wean obliged to row altogether. ' We weie disappointed in obtaining any information from I Louis, or baggage for our Panis. I do not know how it will digested by them. We likewise were disappointed in receiving a line from you,i| we had here expected, and in the hopes of which I shall yet deti until 12 o'clock, and then take my departure. Our Osage condu themselves pretty well, and are very c!/e lient to orders ; at iii| they had an idea a little too free relative to oihf.r people's propei* but at present stand corrected. I understood from you that they were equipped by Mr. Tilii^ with every thing necessary for their voyage to their towns, co quently, althcugh thev have been applying to me for a varietjl art'wles, none of which have they been gratified with, but pow( ; lu 'mil, vMch is necessary for their own defence. W" the oourw of ihc f to y««ir»»f» ^■' API^EMDIX TO PART II. 33 The general will perdon thit iciawl, and should he wnd an expreis after m, pleete to let Mrs. Pike know of the opportuailf. i will deer sir, n With high respect, f Your obedient serv ^nt, .1 (Signed) 7" M. Pirb, Lt. Oenerai HUHnton, V Wit**'"*"*' >'. ti- [ No. 4. 1 I, exeept some of tkJ [te oC the water vea« ,yinfonn«tiot»f«>";' know how it v»iU • • * living a line from you, UhichI»V»»"y*^'*'= [■e Our Osage con* \iet>t to orders; at fit oa.^r people's propel LqulppedbyMr.Til L to their towns, coi * to me for a variety Si.Charlett \9(hJuiyt IBO^.—In thi motning. Dv.'.R ^' *:nkhal, ENCLOSED you have one ot the articles, subscribed by Mr Henry, mentioned in my note of yesterday. I hope the general may up;>rove of the contents. Lieut. Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson marched (with one soldier) ihis morning, and the boats have proceeded under the conduct of Ballenger ; I shall overtake them in an hour or two. , / Numerous reports have been made to the Indians, caKurated to impress them with an idea that there is a small army of th^if enemies waiting to receive us at the entrance of the Grand Osage. But I have partly succeeded in scouting the idea from their mirida,' No news of Chouteau nor Panis* Trunks. tam, deargenerali , , • Your obedient scrviaht, (Signed) , 2. M. Pike, Lt.' ' * *• ' .ik3Il«f-j:.,. ,-.;, , . .!<,...,.. • . ■ ^ 9(|J I. . Village De Otaretief 22d Julyt 1606. >SAR GknERAL, I HAVE the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your two liging lavors of the 18th and 19th inst. the particular contents qf h, shall be puncoiaUy attended to. I assure you str, that I am extremely pleased with the idea, and , will meet with their merited re- '^i !'1I-y; Klcneral Wilkinuon. iratified with, but pow« j^^^^^.^ Idet'ence. p-d, and I on my part, am determined to shew them, that it is not pir sinister muvemiuita dax can dvrange the objects of our vojf- \'-:. ,•'4 1 %: II % ■1 1 ;■' if,i 'Kil 34 APFENQIX TO PAR,T M- |b.. iS ' . . ■«' " ' *'i. Mii i n age!; the greatest embarmssment they have yet pccasioned me, has been by ^he detention of tli^ Panis's baggage^ w^^ have b^eu much mortified on the occasion. Uut I question , i:]^ch if under similar impressions and circumstances, many whive men would have borne their loss wiih more philosophy, tlianour young savages. I concdve that I cannot dispose of one of my guns better, than to give it to Frank, whose /uaee was left at Chouteau's ; also, each of them a soldier's coat ; this is all the remuneration I will pretend ;') make them, and I hope may bring them to a good humor. You will probably be surprised at the slow progress we have made, but, are already infot'med of the cause of our detention at St. Charles ; and since havetbeen dietained tvro days, on account of the rain ; and although we 'were able to prevent the water from en- tering immediately on, the top of the boat where covered, yet the quantity which she made at both ends, occasioned so much damp, ness under the loading, as to injure both my own.cqrhj and that of the Indians, with other small articles, which they ha(| ' iat various times taken from under'the loading, and notYeturhed to their proper places ; but they appear satisfied, that we have paid all possible at- tention to prevent injury, a^ much, aiid indeed more, to their bag- gage than our own. > . . . In consequence of the above, (and with a design to write you) I I baited here to day, which t hope we shall usefully employ in dry ing our bag:7age, cIeanit)gq^'r ,arms, and putting ourselVes in a pos ture of defence. Lieut.' Wilkinson' has experienced ho inconveni' ence from his march by land with the Indians i and the event has prov- ed the necessity of some officer 'acconipanying'them, as he informs me, he found it necessary to purchase some beeves for their con sumption on the route, for which he drew on the superintendaht ol Indian affairs, and will write to you more paiticularly on the sul ject. They were absent from the boat four days, and had he m been with them, they would have supplied themselves by maraud' ing, to the great oflFence of our good citizens. I am >nfut'med, that a party of 40 Sacs were at Boon's Lid above the Osage river, a few days since ; but, I by no means coi ceive on the route to intercept us, as the people pretend at tliij .place. Three days since, one of my men complained of indispositii and went en shore to matxh ; he has never joined the party, and i'roi various reasons, I conceive has^deserted. I have therefore encloi an advertisement, which if the general will please to cause to l|ivij} ..^t posted at St. Louis, Kaskaskius, and Lusk's Ferry on the Ohiu,| conceive he will be caught. 'tria w^ APPENDIX TO PART II. , . 35 rcaaioned vne, has vfii(0 haye ^^^^' whive men would our young savages. ,y guns better, than uteau's}alao»«^'''^*; ation 1 will pretend good humor. w progress we have e of our detenuon at a days, on account of »t the water from en- ,ere covered, yet the oned so much damp. own.covn;'andthatof htheybad at various eturnedto'thelr proper .vepaVdaUpo«s|blej^ ed more, 10 their bag. I _ design to write you) I usefiiily employ ^^'^'^^ ^tingoursavesinapos. ieri^nced no inconvem-l event has pvov- and the ' tng'them, as |e beeves he informsi foi- their conj m Ipav the»uperinlendahtot| ticularly on the sul> days, and hud he not "themselves by mavauaj ks. U were JUt, at Boon's Licli 1 by no means coi people pretend at tlv ^plained of indispositu I Jiavc written to capt. Dani Bissell on tl>e occasion ; but hope the general will enforce my request to that gentleman, as to his be- ing brought to trial. I was much mortified at the event, not only on account of the loss of the man, but that my peculiar situation prevented me from pursuing him, and making him an example. - With respect to ttie Tetaus, the genetal may rest assured, I shall use every precaution previous to trusting thdm ; but as to the mode of conduct td be pursued towards theSpaniards^ I feel more at a loss, as my instrudtions lead me into the country ' according to the custom of nations in like cases, I would resist, even if the inequality was as great as at theaffaiP'of Bender< or'tHfc sti'eights of Thermopylx. ' Will you pardon the foregoing as the enthusiasm of a youthful mindv yet, not altogether unihvpressed by the dittates of prudence. I hope the general will be pfersuaded, that with his son, I sludl act as I would to a brother) endeavoring in ailcasea to promote his lionor and prosperity. • ;..iiji{ :. .i^ .. t.;i.v -w -^ ,:-., I am, dear general, '• •■;•'-- 1 Your sincere friend, *■*''•' And obedient humble servant)' ) (Signed) •- Z. M.Pike. n'O [General J. Wilkinson. — •l'^" I'^a'/ari hadUjIj ;ij.^ ;>/<;; \^ „ ..5X1'; jined the party have therefore ase n\\ pie I'erry to cause andt'roi| •nclosi tot N. B. In consequence of indisposition, Sec. lieut. Wilkinson kvill stcur one boat and I the other. on the Ohwl M f, '.^.M ' i '' * .-S r'l i' ^^ %tA \ 3« APPENDIX TO PARt II. I ■ ■ ■ ■ . , - , r ^ , - * ■ ..■ i . . - ... , I [ No. f . 3 . . ' FiUage de CharettCf evening ,qf the 22d Julyt 1806. Dkak Sir, , .. .^yiu-i..., , • FINDING no prosp^t of meeUug with « private conveyance of our letter^, in time sufficient to find you. previou» to your wtting !wU, which 'wonld be entirely too late to secure my deserter, and give you the other informatioa they contain, 1 bf^ve hired the bearer to ride express to Belle Fontaine, ibr which I have promised him> eight dollars } which taking into view, his feriiages, &c. it cannot be deemed high, and I hope the general will please to order the ailitary agent to discharge the samd. The weather hath at length became settled, and we set sail tO'morrow wkh our bouts newly, and much better, arranged* I ani, general, with sincere esteem, ,. % And high respect. Your obedient servant, (Signed) . ,_ , General Wilkitia^n 4. . , n.f nr Z. M. P^itjf. ■..: ' )u . . ;■. : .:■ .• ^sfjirisffcsu i>tn. ...<£i.No»(7ft:[],, : ■.: 'Jii.]^ ■■■J ■^-r, - .;; . !;it. ,. ;.! ; ■,>! )j ',; yj J > ( . J'ive leagues below the river O^ge^ 26rA Ju/y, 1806. Dkab GBN£RAz.i , !ktir|}fM ^ ;. I HALT a moment, in order to say we have arrived thus far all safe, although our savages complain inuch of fatigue, &^c. The bearer had been sent by Mr. Sangonet to examine the < Osage river, and reports that they could not get their canobs up the civer more than 60 miles : if so, we huve a bad praspect before u&i { but go we will, if God permits. ^(ii7».|<^ I am, dear general, Your ,4^bedient servant, (Signed) _ Z. IVt, Pike. Gen. James {Wilkinson. ,'}^«. We have been detained several duysi by the Indians. . ^.-.^T^. ■ « . {' i4■ U '■*■. ,ate conveyance i u> youT •eiting ny deserter, and hVred the bearer. ve promised him> ges, &c.UcMinot ease to order the 1, and we set ^ r, arranged. PI'- 1 have arrived thus far ,f fatigue, «^c. ,net to examine the let their canofes up ihc Id prospect before u., I It servant, theln^i^*- .'*^*^ .*^«oy itii ^ -'^ APPENDIX TO PAUT II. 37 [ No. «. 3 Park on the Otage river ^ Wth Aug, 1806. Dhak Sir, BY Baptiste la Tulip I mnd this letter, who utforms me he bears letters to Chouteau, informing him that a party of the Little Oaaget have inarched to war against the Kanses ; and a ^rty of the Grand Oaagea left the village expressly to make war on the white people on the Arkansaw. This latter step the White Hair did every thing in his power to prevent, but could not. If true, what are we to think of 'Our bon» aim* the Osage ? But to ■*■ must we ascribe the stroke against the Kaneeiy trho I am informed sent a message to the Osage nation to raze the Kanses village entirely. On this subject I intended to have been more particular, and substantiate it by proofs ; but present circum- stances seem to give credit to it. On my arrival at the village, more I 'particular enquiry shall be made on the subject. Yesterday morning lieutenant Wilkinson, the doctor, interpre- ter, and one soldier, marched with the Indians, as they were very apprehensive of an attack. The people in the canoe heard them crying and saw them on their march. Nothing extraordinary has yet taken place on our route, except our being favored with a vast quantity of rain, which I hope will enaible us to ascend to the village. What face will the Indians receive us with ? and to whom are we to ascribe their hostile disposition, unless the traitors of St liOuis ? Lieutenant Wilkinson is in very good health, and will lament his having missed this opportunity of assuring his parents of his I love and affection. I am, dear general, Your obedient sertant, (Signed) Z. M. Pixr Gen. James IVtlkinson. ' I'J m m Wc i.l 'i ;i'i^ '1 M'i" 'li . : ih.' »H; \\: ■ • i|. k' ■■ ■ li:^^ ■i^y ;■'.:"'! MP'yif^ ;}4iM iSW" i*^> *'■ SH APPENDIX TO PART II. Ih [ No. 9. ] Cantonment, Missouriy August 6, 1 806. SiR» IN consequence of the receipt of the enclosed letters, I have thought proper to send you an express, to eni^ble you to announce to the Osage the designs of their enemies, that they may take season- able measures to circumvent them. You will not fail, in addition to the within talk, to enhance our paternal regard for this nation, by every proper expression; but are to keep clear of any conflict in which they may be involved, though you are tq avoid the appearance of abandoning them. If it should be the Potpwatomies' intention to earry their threat into execution. It is probable they will not attempt to make the blow before the falling of the leaves, and in the mean time the Osages should establish a chain of light scouts, along the coast of the Missouri, to ascertain with certainty the approach of their enemy. It is reduced to a certainty that . and a society of which he is the ostensible leader, have determined on a project to open some commercial intercourse with Santa Fe, and as this may lead i to a connection injurious to the United States, and will, I understand, be attempted without the sanction of law or the permission of the ( executive : you must do what, consistently, you can to defeat the plan. No good can be derived to the United States from such a project, because the prosecution of it will depend entirely on the Spaniards,! and they will not permit it, unless to serve their political, as well as] their personal interests. I am informed that the ensuing autumol and winter will be employed in reconnoitring and opening a connec-[ tion with the Tetaus, Panis, &c. that this fall, or the next winter, i grand magazine is to be established at the Osage towns, where thesi operations will commence ; that ' is to be the active agentj having formed a connection with the Tetaus. This will carry for] ward their merchandise within three or four clays travel of tin Spanish settlements, where they will deposit it, under a guard of 301 Tetaus. . will then go forward with four or five atiendantj taking with him some jewelry and fine goods. With those he \i\ visit the governor, to whom he will make presents, and implore I pity by a fine talc of sufferings which have been endured by til change of goveniment : that they are left here, with goods to f sure, but not a dollar's worth of bullion, and therefore they liavei vf'Dtined to see him, for the purpose of prayintj liis leave forthej APPENDIX TO PART IL L'i l lugust 6, 1806. losed letters, I have B you to announce to ,ey may take season- wtfail, in addition to rd for this nation, by ar of any conflict in avoid the appearance k-atomies' intention to ! they will not attempt Lves, and in the mean ight scouts, along the ainty the approach of md a society of which „.,,.; t.rt to open lead project to open U^ImUm, of their propen, !„,„ ... ' " "■= «'«"« of 'he good,1i,T e .^.dT""; 'f *' '"«»"' "■"' will i„,i,e .oraeof lus cou^' „ """' ' " '"= «f"«s, then ™d..™r,oope„.fo„., „'S;°^*;™ ," ™r'""-«»«. >.e will Spaniard, wilf notdare to attack 1!.™^ 1° ' *"'" °''«'''", u,e Md J^u mu.t take all prud^fanS . r T """ ^'^ '«'« '!>» plan! In «gani to your aptrx?^.,^ """' '" '"'"' '" "?■ «l.ould your rout. Ldyn°aT '" "" ^P'-ish aettl.ments »on and diacreUon, a. ma, pre"e« 1 "" "".""^ '^u-n.pec' Wd responaibl. for conseVuencTs TZ "f «' " >-"' -"" to "F orders. We have noUiint „,!; °" ""'"^J"" I refer rou to ■i- in Eu,.pe, b„tf:^^X*"rhf"V'''''''*«-So.i - ""rd. below are behaving now whh * ' -nderstand the Spa. By the return of the b^Zr ^ """"''• Pfng a step before you, for fe r of del? T '^'^^ ""«'"" fo me you ra.y, ^j „„ ^' °^ f "J""" "><1 diMpp„i„,„,e„,. ""nnle detail of everv th »IT . '^ '^™"''' "»« only givinB . P-Pect, and the conlc^o/trelVr ^^ rl "°''' "" *» "f^r me ^d «.«, I "no« the sea. If d opening a connect ^^ ,,f;»^ f ' -.on of congress ; yet you „1 " .^r four day tit, under a guard of 30 th four or five atlcmlant! )ds. With those he wi presents, and implore li Ave been endured by tl ft here, with goods to 1 j^^.^ ,d therefore they have! ^^^ •aying his leave for the 1 -!■ you tvill rcadi^derstr !';""■' T ' ^"^ ''"'P" P' '!«.ed from .he motion of .eV^^^.^f «'". in some, Ice 'Mn than lUercury. I think" ! ' " ' ^"'' f" » fairer artilicial ' of it would do 14 „ 1 ' 'ha ""' ' '""* •P'"''^ -da has botched his^::i'L,' H.'ZZT'''''' » "''^' •"«d, and himself in the Lcander r. " '"" ''^"""'"■s 'J^ '1, MK iJ.: £ ' j'i t 40 APPENDIX TO PART 11. J'* t,'' Ifr- Bail of the line with Jerome BonaDarte at Martinique. I consider them lost. Your children have been indisposed; but Mrs. Pike writes you. She appears well. My regards to your associates, and may God protect you. , (Signed) J. Wilkinson. Lieutenant Pike. I 1^1 >.i\ [ No. 10. ] Camfi IndefiendencCi near the Osage Townsj Augiiit 28, 1806. Deau General, You will no doubt be much surprised to perceive by the date of this letter, that we are still here ; but we have been unavoidably detained by a variety of circumstances. I had the happiness to receive your express the day of my ar- rival, the bearer having arrived the night before, and have attended particularly to its contents. On the 19th inst. I delivered your fiarole to the Chevcux, Blanche, and on the 21st held a grand council of both towns, andj siade the necessary communications and demands for horses, on thej subject of making peace with the Kans, accompanying me to thi Panis, down the Arkansaw, and if there was any brave enough to ac- company me the whole voyage. They requested one day to hold council in the villages previj ous to giving an answer. It was three before I received any; theij 'detiermination was as follows :— From the Grand Osage village, the Chevcux Ulanch - I have sold the batteaux which I brought up (and which was extremely rotten) for 100 dollars, in merchandize, the price of this place, which I conceive was preferable to leaving her to destruction! as I am afraid I do the barge (for which I demanded 150 dollars), although I leave her under charge of the Wind and shall report her to colonel Hunt. I shall dispatch the express to-morrow, as he complains much of the detention, Sec. and as I hope nothing worthy of note will occur at this place previous to our departure. I hope the general will be- I lieve me to bci and should this be my last report, to have been, his sincerely attached friend and obedient servant, (Signed) Z.M.PiK»,Lt. Gen, Wilkinson. r No. 12. ] -•■'^ •' SOth jiu^atf Oaage Toitmsy 1&06. Dear Sir, * I HAVE brought Mr. Noal, alias Maugraine, to reason, and he either goes himself or hires, at his expence, a young man who is jiere who speaks the Panis language, and in many other respects is referable to himself; but he will be the bearer of the express to laint Louis. li 'I'S vW' i f k i u APPENDIX TO PART II. The Cheveux Blanche requested me to inform you that there is a murderer (an Osage) in his village, who killed a Frenchman on the Arkansaw j but owing to the great dissentions and schisn. of the Arkansaw faction, he is fearful to deliver him up, without some of his friends having agreed to it, and his authority being strengthened by a formal demand from you, when he assures me he shall be brought down a prisoner. Indeed the Cheveux Blanche appears to be very delicately situated, as the village on the Arkansaw serves a« a place of refuge for all the young, daring, and discontented ; and added to which, they are much more regularly supplied with ammu- nition, and, should not our government take some steps to prevent it, they will ruin the Grand village, as they are at liberty to make war without restraint, especially on the nations who are to the west, and have plenty of horses. The chief says he was promised, at Washington, that these people should be brought back to join him ; but, on the contrary, many of his village are emigrating there. Owing to the difficulty of obtaining horses, Mr. il ^.nry returns from this place. In descending the Mississippi I will ^'equest him to pay his respects to you. I last evening took the census of the Grand village) and found it to be— Men . .- % 502 Boys . .' . 341 Women and Girls 852 Total 1695 Lodges 214 The express waits, which I hope the general will accept as an] excuse for this scrawl, having written him fully on the 28th 39th inst. ;' I am, dear general, ■* ' , Your ever sincere friend and obedient servant, Z. M. Pike, Lt. (Signed) Gin, J. Wilkinaon. .>■ [c(I sa APPENDIX TO PART II. you that there Frenchman on ,d tchiw. of the ritbout wme ot ng fltrenglhened ,ne he thall be ancbe»PP*a"*o kan»avf»enre»a» iscontented i and plied with ammu- B stepa to prevent at liberty to make ho ere to the west, ^aa promiaed, at t back to join him; grating there. Mr. K^nry returns ilvili veque»t^^'» ,d village, and found ."^Tal will accept as an! ffuUyontbe28tb.n4J {■ ■ ■ ' ^ .V re friend ent servant, Z.M.PiKE.Lt- [ No. 13. ] Pawnee Ee/iublict Itt Oct. 1806. Sir, WE arrived here on the 35th ult. after a tedious march of 375 miles, the distance (as I conceive) being very much augmented by the Osages, who accompanied us, leading us too far to the south, owing to their great fear of the Kans. We sufTered considerably with thirst, but our guns furnished us amply with buffalo meat. We delivered in safety to the chief the two young Pawnees who had lately visited Washington, and caused to be explained to the nation, the parole which they bore from the president of the United Statec. On our arrival, we founcf the Spanish and American flags both expanded in the village, and were much surprised to Icam, that it Mras not more than three or four weeks, since a party of Spanish troops (whose number were estimated by the Indians of this town, at 300) had returned to Santa Fe ; and further learnt that a large body of troops had left N. Mexico, ftnd on their march had met with the vil- lagers of the Pawnee Mahaws, who were on one of their semi>annual excursions ; that they encamped together, and entered into a treaty, but after this the Pawnees raised their camp in the nifi^ht, and stole a large portion of the Spaniards horses. This circumstance indue* ed them to halt on the Arkansaw with the main body of the troops, and to send forward the party who appeared at this village ; who proixised to this chief to join a party of his warrioi-s to their troops, march to and entirely destroy the village of the Pawnee Mahaws ; this proposition he had prudence enough to reject, although at war with that nation. The Spanish officer informed him that his supe- rior, who remained at the Arkansaw, had marched from Santa Fe, with an intention of entering into a treaty with the following nations of Indians, viz : I'he Kanses, the Pawnee Republic, the Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Otos, and Mahaws ; and had with him a grand medal, commissions, and four mules for each ; but by the stroke of the Pawnee Mahaws, the plan was disconcerted, except only as to this nation. The commissions are dated Santa Fc, 15th June 1806, and signed governor general, Sec £cc. of New Mexico, and run in the usual style of Spanish commissions to savages, as I far as I was capable of judging of their contents. The chief further informed me, that the officer who command- led said party, was too young to hold councils, &c. that he had only .f ' ii'i'i P t'l I ■' 46 APPENDIX TO PART II. I i rr t mm m ■■^ come to open the road, but that in the ipring his superior would be here, and teach the Indians what was good for them ; and that they would build a town near them. In short, it appears to me to have been an expedition expressly f jr the purpose of striliing a dread into those diflercnt nations of t^ie Spanish power, and to bring about a general combination in their favor. Under these impressions, I Iiave taken the earliest opportunity of reporting the infringement of our territory, in order that our government may not remain in the dark, as to the views of her neighbor. I effected a meeting at this place, between a few Kans and Usages, who smoked the pipe of peace and buried the hatchet, agreeably to the wishes of their great father ; in consequence of which a Kans has marched for the Osage nation, and some of the latter propose to accompany the former to their vi]luy;c ; whether this good understanding will be permanent, I will not take on me to determine ; but at least, a temporary good effect has succeeded. From the Osage towns, I have taken the courses and distances, by the route we came, marking each river or rivulet we crossed, pointing out the dividing ridges, &c. The wa* ters which wc crossed, were the head of the Osage, White-, and Verdigrise rivers, (branches of the Arkansaw) and the waters cf the Knns river. The latitude of this place, I presume} will be in about 39° 3(/ N. and I hope to obtain every jther astronomical obscr- vatinn, whicii will be requisite to fix its geographical situation be- yond dispute. I expect to march from here in a few days, but the future prospects of the voyage arc entirely uncertain, af the savages strive to throw every impediment in our way, agreeably to the or- ders received from the Spaniards. Being seated on the ground) and writing en the back of a book, I hope will plead my excuse for this scrawl. I am, sir, With high respect, . Your obedient servant. ■ .^.1^yl (Signed) T/ie hon. Iivnry Dearborn^ I Sccretuvy wardepiivtmetu. J»ill iveb itiim lustac ces; Pixr, I.t. uards •J j< ' ange . ' Th eanst '.'. ■ ( " I *, Ticks ,',: ."■'! iJting •\' '■''. ^\'' their -r 1 r» •/ » On / .;;■. - .■{ snion * ■■-.■-.; Qdshii ant' APPENDIX TO PART II. 4r rior vrou\d be and that they to roe to have ngadrcadin^o bring about a Impreiaiow, I infringement oi >t reroain in the meeting at thw ^cd the pipe of ,es of their great ,edfor the Osage any the former to lU be permanent, a temporary good 1 have taken the rking each river or 3sage, White, and and tbe viators ct me wiU bem Ctronomicalobscr- phicai situation he [ No. U. ] Pawnee RcfiubUcy 2d Oct. 1806. DbAR OBNBllAtt INCLOSED you have « copy of my letter from this place, to the Mcntary of war, in ore' er, that should you think any communication on the contents nece!isat7, you may have a pni'fect command of the information given the war departntent, and will be the more capable tf illustrating the subject. You will perceive by said communication, that we were led eondderably out of our course by our guides, and in my opinion not less than 100 miles ; this was entirely owing to the pusillanimity of the Osage, who were more afraid of the KanS| than I could possibly have imagined. You will likewise perceive the council which took place be- tween those nations (under our auspices') and its effects, but which 11 candidly confess, I have very little hopes will be productive of a permanent peace, as none of the principal men of either nation I were present ; but as both are anxious for a cessation of hostilities [perhaps it may have the desired effect. Two of the Kans chiefs have said they will pursue the voyage Uith me agreeably to my orders ; I do not yet know whether they liill descend the Arkansaw with lieut. Wilkinson, or continue on to r lavs but tl\e a , ^ .^g savages HRed river with me, but they have their own selection. , agreeably to the or .ttd on the ground, IpleadmycHCUsetor It^t, TV!. P»»^' ^'^ .jl^H'-' ,-l ^3* fi •-''•'' ' ^r^V^ ,^^<\ .: ^ lo '"'' ' ,il.,i'. The general will no doubt be struck with some surprize, to itrceive that so large a party of Spanish troops have been so lately lour territory ; no doubt at first you would conclude that it must live been militia ; but when informed that their infantry was armed kith muskets and bayonets, and had drums ; that the men wore long pustaches and whiskers, which almost covered the whole of their ces ; their cavalry armed with swords and pistols, and that regular juards and patroles were kept by horse and foot, you may probably Age your opinion. The route by which they came, and returned, was by no |eans the direct one from Santa Fe, and why they should have lick so low down as the Grand Saline, unless they had an idea of liking at the village of the Grand Pest : or conceived the Saline [their territory, I cannot imagine. On our arrival here, we were received with great pomp and emony, by about 300 men on horseback, and with great apparent adship by the chief. The Osage (one chief and four warriors) i 4»^ APPENDIX TO PART II. J •*■ . V were presented with eight horses, the Kans who arrived two days after, were also presented with horses. The day after, we assembled the four principal chiefs to dine, after which I presented the prin- cipal, with a doubled barrel'd gun, gorget, and other articles, (this man wore the grand Spanish inedalj and to the second the small medal you furnished me, with other articles ; and to each of the others a gorget in their turn. Those presents I conceived would have a good effect, both as to attaching them to our government, and in our immediate intercourse. At the council which was held a day or two afterwards, I pre. sented them with merchandize (which at this place should be valued at S250) and after explaining their relative situation as to the Span« ish and American governments, I asked on my part, tf tney would easiat ua xvith a few /loraea, a Tetau prisoner who aftoke Pawnet^ to aerve aa an interpreter^ an exchange of colors ; and fihaUy^ for aomt of their chiefs to accomfiany ua, to be aent to Waahington. This ex. change of the colors was the only request granted at the time ; and for paiticular reasons (which lieut. Wilkinson related) I thought proper to return them to the chief; and after spending two or three anxious days, we were given to understand, that our requests couldnot be complied with in the other points, and were again strongly urged by the head chief, to return the way we came, and not prosecute our voyage any further ; this brought on an explanation as to our views towards tlie Spanish government ; in which the chief declar- ed, that it was the intention of the Spanish troops to have proceeded further towards the Mississippi, but, that he objectied to it, and thej listened to him and returned ; he therefore hoped we would be equally reasonable ; but finding I still determined on proceeding, k\ told me in plain terms (if the interpreter erred not) that it was tl will of the Sfianiarda we should not firoceed ; which not anawering^ he painted innumerable difficulties which he said lay in the way but finding all his arguments had no effect, he said, << It was a pity/H to tl^ and was silent. | man] This day I sent out several of my party to purchase horses, btil know not yet how we shall succeed, as the Kans have intimated aLcomt idea, that the chief will prohibit his people from trading with us. I the K The Pawnees and the Tetaus are at war ; the latter killed six (■ was the former in August last, consequently the effecting any comniunlthe ' '.ion with the Tetaus by means of this nation is imfrassible. (be ubl If God permits, we shall march from here in a few days, at the Arkansijiw I shall remain, until I build two small canoes fl f:'ii\. ;»'. i t-'Mi y ■n r ^if:'). Slli I'.i «,^.-TU APPENDIX TO PART II. 49 arrived two days er, we assembled resented the pvin- ther articles, (this second the small ind to each of the 1 conceived would o our government, > afterwards, I pre- ice should be valued BtionastotheSpan. rpart. if tney ivould ^hoMfioke Paivnety to and finally, for '^mt Washington. The ex- ued at the time; and ,„ related) 1 thought spending two or three our requests couldnot e again strongly urged (ne, and not prosecute explanaticnastoout ,hich the chief dechr. 3ops to have proceeded [objectiedtoit, andlheyl e hoped we would bel Vincd on proceeding, htl ed not) that it was the^ , >fhich not amviemil »e said lay in the way J ^eaaid, ^^Itwasapityl to purchase horses, b«l kans have intimated a from trading with «s. I r; the latter killed 8W( I effecting any comnuin Ion is impossible, here in a few days,' lud two stnall canoes Ueut. W. (whose party will consist of Ballenger and two or three men, with three Osage.) Those canoes will be easily managed, and in case of accident to one, the other will still be sufficient to transport their baggage. I am informed, that in a few days he will meet French hunters, and probably arrive at the village of the Grand Peat in a fortnight ; and as all the Osage nation are apprized of his descent, I conceive he will meet with no insurmountable difficulties.* The Tetaus are at open war with the Spaniards, so that could we once obtain an in- troduction, I conceive we should meet with a favorable reception. Vet how it is to be brr\:ght about, I am much at a loss to deter- mine, but knowing that, at tliis crisia of affai^Si an intimate connec- tion with that nation, might be extremely serviceable to my country^ I shall proceed to find them ; in hopes to Bnd some means through the French, Osage, and Pawnee languages, of making ourselves understood. Any number of men (who may reasonably be calculated on) would find no difficulty in marcliing the route we came with bag' (rage waggons, field artillery, and all the usual appendages of a small army ; and if all the route to Santa Fe should be of the same description in case of war, I would pledge my life (and what is intinitely dearer* my honor) for the successful march of a reasona- ble Ixidy of troops, into tlie province of New Mexico. I find the savages of this country less brave ; but possessing much more duplicity, and by far a greater propensity to lying and stealing, than those I had to pass through in my last voyage. I am extremely doubtful if any chief of those nations, can be in- duced to prosecute the voyage with us, as their dread of the Te- taus, and the objections of the Pawnees, seems to outweigh every argument, and inducement to the contrary. 3d Oc^oA^r— The Pawnee chief has induced the Kans to return to their villages, by giving them a gun and promising horses, with I many frightful pictures drawn if they proceeded. The Osages lent me five horses, which their people who ac- Icompanied us were to have led back, but receiving fresh ones from the Pawnees, they would not be troubled with them. In fact, it was a fortunate circumstance, as four of the horses I obtained of Ithe Osage, have such bad backs, they cannot proceed, and we will |be obliged to leave them ; and not purchasing here with facility^ I li^l ■Jl' ■ 'f •;Ki Ml. ■■;' ■'1: . This wa» crroneoui, but it was my impression at the time« sn APPE^iDlX to PART II. i!l fc'^^n Pli '^ I^H^ttB *>■ [ f ' f ^» lift' Hi >• ^«l ? I ' 1'^ y would huva been obliged to have sacrificed some of our baggage. I therefore sent them a certificate for each horse, on the Indian agent below, which I hope the general will order him to discharge* I know the general's goodness will excuse this scrawl, as he is well acquainted with the situation it must be written in, uid at the same time, believe me to be his sincere friend and Most obedient Humble servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, Lt. GeneratJ, Wilkinson. [ No. 15. ] Arkanmtv, 24>th Oct. 1806. Latitude S7* 44' 9^' A*. Deau General, OUR party arrived here on the 15th inst. myself and Doctor Robinson on the i9th, we having been out to seek the trace of the Spanish troops missed the party, ana were not able to join them until the 4th day. The river being very regular, lieut. Wilkinson had calculated to proceed on the day following, on the most direct route for the Red river, but shortly after my joining, a considerable rain fell and raised the river, and we have been ever since preparing wooden and skin canoes, for that gentleman and party to descend in. The river is between three and four hundred yards in width ; I generally flat low banks, not more than two or three feet high, and the bed a sand bank from one side to the other. The want of water will present the greatest obstacle to the pro- 1 gress of the party who descend the Arkansaw, as tiiey have no cause to fear a scarcity of provision, having some bushels of corn on hand, and at their option to take as much dried meat as they think I proper, hundreds of pounds of which are lying on scaffolds at ourl 4Eamp ; and they are likewise accompanied by the choice of our| hunters. Under those circumstances, and those stated in my letter fronl the Pawnees, I can assert with confidence, there are no obstacles l| should hesitate to encounter, although those inseparable fromi voyage of several hundred leagues through a wilderness inhabite f r II. ime of our baggage, orsei on the Indian er him to discharge* le this scrawl, as he written in, md at the and A^PEIVDIX TO PART H. . M. PiKBf Lt. onlybysavages, may appear of th- ** unaccustomed to such eZrpriLl ^""''''' "^^^^"d* ^ minds ""■I came. wUh W„, . „„ " '" ' f ' Lieut. Wilkinson h„ copied *e» connexion,, «„d general direc. „„ r' k"^ ""^l '"''«'' «> "he,, "* '.have myself spared no iMf„. • considerable accuracy -.» fr„™ .^e sa-vagesTnrZr""""""^- ""WninJS S; """1 »e find .he head of " ,; 2^ """« ''=''' ">ore .o he •^od 'onae time, after ,v|,icir„t^. """•• *'""■"' """^X be de! '■■".I at Natchitoches. ' "°">'»e ^ball cause a halt „„t,| ^ I speak in all those eases i„ .i . '«;".he compass of human exeri"""""" ""o^' "• »»ftra, '« I pretend no. ,„ surmoul il„ f',"" """""^ "■» power 5«»eral would pa.,o„ mrit^i ^ „T:^;1«^ ™.1 ' -I, kn'oT hj ^ 'le general ivilj probablv L ^ ^ *° ^"n*- aiuciau.^ .»... .w - _ ces of the fvn^.v.- *^, "'*°'y ne surpr zed to fir,^ »i . . ashelsof corn on ha„d,|hrk) and the a™^ ^^ "" P'^-med by cantlTn , ""'™ d meat as they thinkf «s, ,;."•, t Z "? "°'" "•* *>- ">4 iS '"'"? """ i„g on scaffolds a. ou,|u„ts. ""'"'^'"« «" «>« most rigid oti """'''"'- ibyth. choice or oJ I canno, ye, say if j ,fc ,, ° ""'To my ac- ,ta.eainmy.et.e.f J;rrr,:t:;^^^^^ "~™tr;fj:^'*;"' "- there .. no „bstac,e,|y dollars. Sho^url^^re"?;"" T™^= ''-e- Cn'i .se .naeparable from: * a company, , hope the re"!r!l ,"' '"''^"""'« """ored me .wUder„es..„hab.t. , and have my command 'Zi^ 7" """"" "•- Promise! "'""^ '--'"^ertyof so,ician;r.r n-n: Z/"'"' ^ » "'**'^ "»ey may ob- ude S7» 44' 9" M \t. myself and Doctor seek the trace of the lot able to join them Ikinson had calculated ; direct route for the siderable rsun fell and .'' I .-Ip I' ' 1 5a APPENDIX TO PART II. - i -M 4'W ■mA 1 ■:^i 3 _i. -t * ' f^^'^ 1 - IV- "^ii a T^a* m II * tain the lam^, or similar rewards, to those who accompanied capt. Lewis, as I will make bold to sayy that they have in the two voyb ages, incurred as great dangers, and went through as many hard- ships. I am, dear general, Your ever attached friend. And obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike. GeneralJ. Wilkinaon. N. B. Doctor Robinson presents his respectful compliments, and is sanguine m the success of our expedition. j( . f'l s„"*»*^{;. tol of • ••'Jo "^MU vyai 3uM f^oiMu'iUn. ^-a. mh- APPENDIX TO PART II. 53 .?!!■ ampanied capt. in the two voy- as many hard- ;:. M. P»»*- tfui compVimenls, H H o n H H >• > f d ** ca 4^ o> 03 4^ O O O to 1^ o > a: M pi o c/: O W I S ko M -I o o *o to Ok (ft o — O M o o (ft o o to 09 (ft O o to o o O M u C3 00 to o o Oi <— <^ M Oi o (O o^ ^ C3 (ft to JVo. of Warriora. Ab. o/" Women. Ab. o/" Children. J^o. of Villages. Probab'e JVo. of Souls. o — to M »0 (ft o ~ to o o o (ft o to o o ?3 O > H C r > H O 2: Ab. o/" Lodges of the Roving Bands. JVo. of Fire Arms, !!■' :'||';'' wm i^ B.> ^. ! -. .-vfeVuO "^e vofv o> lO o !2 8 ,§• •'"''^'>^">'''^ V;^ '"^ '^■- I i^ ■1 a& 1 iS< i O o ■ ■Ti »»*«**■ ■'■■<^»'»fil iV . C ;5- o'' o" . -^ •*-« f-.tf^f**^- ' I I i' 'i APPENDIX TO PART in. ''*fI BETWEEN THE PAC,„c OCEAN „ "" ""'"•'■'■. ANO hhl,e, between U'SO/ands'^^N ' ^7' °' G-^lahxa™ f onguude, and i, bounded wu.h.nd^.T"'' "»'' '°*°'»'i 'o'" K province of Biscay and S nalo" Te ' t'""''' ^-"""h h' of Valladolid, and is 3so mi e t f T"""'" ^-^S' ^.by haeed at 100,000. Iti.„neof,h. .'" P»P"'aiion may be Uation. in .he vice royX a„d r" '"'""'•" '•"> '•«'> ad! h great „ver de Santego '^Mc' J""'" '"'•" '«' "> «« fWdeCbapala. Gna^alaxJ^ J"''.7,» "■«« of i,, „,„; logman family in uj,, and i^st T^I "" ""«' by one o? h-> Compoatela to tha pZT I I T *""^'^ «» remov- Nalaxara, «WcIi incIuderoUVl?" T °' ''''= """""ce ^atecas. The population „f "It" :»"'' ''f •''■■■i»i«raH„n [W, and stands in N. latitude 2o« 5^ '«>' may be estimated at 3 APPENDIX TO PART III. The administration of Valladolid lies between 22* 10', and 18' 12' N. longitude, and 102° and 105° W. longitude, and is bounded south by the South sea, and part of Mexico, east and north east by the latter, and north by that of Guanaxuato. Its greatest length from north east to south west is 230 miles, and its greatest width east ami west 190 miles. Its population may be estimated at 360,000. Jii capital of the same name, is situated in about the 20° N. latitude, 103° 25" W. longitude. Population unknown. The administration of Mexico lies between 2 1° 30', and 1 6° 3(/ N.Hatitude, 99° and 105° W. longitude, and is bounded south by the South Sea ; east by the governments of La Puebla and La Vera Cruz ; north by that of St. Louis, and west by Valladolid and Gua- naxuato. Its greatest length north and south, may be 360 miles, and its greatest width, which is on the Western Ocean, is 200 miles, Its population may be estimated at 1,500,000 souls. The capital of] this administration and of the whole kingdom, is Mexico ; a parti- cular description of which is deemed unnecessary. From every in- formation I could obtain from persons who had resided in it fciv years, it does not contain more than 200,000 inhabitants. Its bein(j the residence of the vice roy, whose court is incvt splendid thanj that of Madrid ; its central position as to the ports of Acapulco and] Vera Cruz, together with the rich and luxuriant vale which suil rounds it, will whenever the Spanish Americans burst the presentj bonds of slavery in which they arc bound, give to Mexico all thosa advantages which great wealth, a largp population, and a commandj ing situation concentrate and assuredly make it one of the greatesf cities in the world. In point of population, it is now in the seconij rank, and in beauty, riches, magnificence, and splendor in the h The administration of Oxaca lies between 18° and 16° N. lalil tude, 98° and 1 12° VV. longitude, and is bounded south by the SoutJ Sea, west by the government of La Puebla, north by Mexico and ] Vera Cruz, and east by the province of Gualamalia. Its gieatel length east ard west 230 miles, and its width north and south llf miles. Its population may be estimated at 520,000 souls. Its ca|j tal is Oxaca in 17° 30' N. latitude, 99° 25* W. longitude. The administration of Vera Cruz lies between 17° and 22"" latitude and 98° and 10!-' W. longitude, and is bounded north east by the gulf of Mexico, south by Oxaca, west by Puebla Mexico. Its greatest length N. W. and S. E. is 430 miles, . its width E. and W. not more than 60* miles. Its population be estimated at 220,000. Its capital U Vera Cru^ which is sole port of entry for all the kingdom on the Atlantic oceanJ APPENDIX TO PAR r III. 22* 10', &r\i\ 18' , and is bounded \ norU^ east by ilic atest lengtb fvom test\vKUbeasiam\ d at 360,000. lu t^e SO'' N. laututk', 2i0 3(/,and\6"'3(y oundecl south by the aebla and La Vera VaUadoUdandGud- , „,ay be 360 niiles. Ocean," 200 nues, ;oul8. The capital of is Mexico; aparu- Urv. From every m. td resided in it fov is .V.CVC splendid th .ports of Acap«;c°a.a ;Untvale^vhvch»u, kans burst the present iveto Mexico all the. lation,andacoTnma. eitoneofthegreaie 'itisno^vintheseco that of Acapulco is on the Western. Its population may be esti- mated at 30,000 souls, and is in 19° 10* N. latitude and 98° SC W. longitude. This city was taken and sacked by the £n(;liah on the I7th May, 1683, since which the w ks for its defence have been made so very strong, as almost to oid defiance to an attack from the sea. The adnninistration de la Puebia lies between 20° and 16° N« lautude and 100° and 102° W. longitude, and is bounded south by the South sea, east by Oxaca and Vera Cruz, north and west by Mexico, and is near 300 miles in its greatest length from north to south, and 120 in its greatest width fi-um east to west Its popula- tion may be estimated at 800,000 souls. Its capital is the city of La Puebia, estimated at 80,000 souls, which is in 19° 12' N. latitude, 100° 50' W. longitude. The administration of Guanaxuato lies between 21° 30' and 22° 30' N. latitude and 103° and 105° W. longitude, and is bounded south by Valladolid, east by Mexico, north by St. Louis Zacataca, land west by Guadalaxara. Its greatest extent, from north to south, is 75 miles, and from east to west 85. Its population may be esti- mated at 500,000 souls. Its capital city is Guaiiaxuato, in latitude In' N. longitude 103° W. The administration of Zacataca lies between 21° 30^ and 34° |i2' N. latitude and 103° and 105° 30' W. longitude, and is bounded Borth by the internal province of Biscay, east by St. Louis, west by iuadalaxara and south by Guanaxuato. Its greatest length is 2 10 liles, north and south, and its greatest width is 145 miles, from east west. Its population may be estimated at 250,2^0 souls. The ipital, Zacataca, stands in 23° N. latitude and 104° W. longitude. The administration of St. Louis lies between 21° 20' and 28° •en 18 *'r*. Y^he Sou^N. latitude and 99° and 102° W. longitude, and includes Texas nded ^°" ^.^^^ ^^^ Ad St. Ander in this dimension, and is bounded north by New Leon, north by ^^ gveattlst by the province of St. Ander, south by Guanaxuato and Mexi- ualama • ^ ^^^^^^^ A and west by Zacataca. Its greatHt length from north to south is ''"*^ "°* ,and its width from east to west is 170 miles. Its population ly be estimated at 3 1 1,500 souls. Its capital, St. Louis de Potosi population of which is 60,000 : it stands in 32° N. latitude, 103* longitude, and was founded in 1568. The province of Nuevo San Ander is bounded north by the pro- e of Texas, west by Nuevo Leon and Cogquillo, south by St* is, and east by the Atlantic ocean, and from north to south is t 500 miles in length, but from east to west not more than 150> opulation may be estimated at 3S,0Q0 souls. The capital, New lidth novt 520,000 souls. ltswi| |W. longitude, .between 17" and 22 ,d is bounded non ;aca,>vest by Pueblo IS E is 430 mdes)' ti;s."iWpopui-»°^!;, reva Cru^ v^hich is ' the Atlantic ocew ^A 'k m ■ I'M i ^Ih I 4 ' APPENDIX TO PART III. San Ander, is on the river of that namei about 40 miles from the sea, in 23" 45' N. latitude and 101" VV. longitude. The kingdom of New Leon is bounded east by New San An- der, north by Cogquilla, west by Biscay, and south by St. Louis and Zncataca; its greatest length north and south is 250 miles, width east and west luo miles. Its population may be estimated at 30,000 souls. Its capital, Mont £1 Rey, is situated on the head waters of Tiger river, which discharges itself into the gulf of Mexico. The city of Mont El Key contains about 1 1,000 souls, and is the seat of the bishop, Don Dio Premiro, who visited the port of Nachitoches when commanded by captain Turner, of the 2d United States regi- mcnt of infantry. His episcopal jurisdiction extends over Nuevo San Ander, New Leon, Cogquilla and Texas, and his salary is equal to S 100,000 per annum. Mont El Rey is situated in 36° N. latitude and 102" \V. longitude. There are many and rich mines near the city of Mont El Rey, from whence, I am informed, there are taken, to be coined, 100 mule-loads of bullion in silver and gold monthly, which may be presumed to be not more than the three-fifths of what is taken from the mines, as there are many persons who prefer never getting their metal coined, as then it is not so easily ascer* tained what they are worth, which is an all-important secret in a des potic government. The foregoing nine administrations or intendenciaSf the king< dom of Leon, and the province of Nuevo San Ander are included in the two audiences of Guadalaxara and Mexico, and form, as believe, the whole political government of the vice-roy of Mexico but I am I >t positive whether his jurisdiction does not include thi audience of Guatimalia, which lies to the south, and includes thi province of that name, that of Chiapa, Yucatan, Veraqua, Cost! Rica and Honduras. An audience is the high court of appeals ii vrhich the vicc-roy presides and has two votes : it is intended as check on his power and authority. The administrations are governed by intendants, who are ol fleers of high rank, and always Europeans. The longitude given from the meridian of Paris. In the general view of New Spain, I shall take some notice the manners, customs, political force. Sec. of the vice-royalty ; bi as I do not pretend to be correctly informed as to thatqua'ter ofti kingdom, and there have been so many persons who h.ive givi statements on those heads, I siiall confine my observations principi to the internal provinces through which I passed, and on whiclthe h inadp my observations. » |'.vindi prod that vince tracti of tal ingsJ APPENDIX TO PART II I. miles from the by New San An- by St. Louis and 250 miles, width stimatcd at 30,000 ,c head waters of of Mexico. The J, and is the seat ol ,ortof Nachitoche* United States rcgi- ■xtendsoverNuevo d his salary is equal ■din 36° N. latitude rich mines near the ned, there are taken, er and gold monthly, ,„ the three-fifths of ,y persons who prefer! is not so easily ascw. ,ortantsecretinade5. ntendenciasjthe kingj m Ander arc includedl lexico, and form,Ml| >e vice-roy of Mexico] pn does not include thJ south, and includes thj icatan, Veraqua, Cosil iKh court of appeals i4 ;,, it is intended asj |intendants,whoareoi The longitude givenj Lll take some notice \i the vice-royalty ; b- ^astothatqua-teroftl Lrsons who huve %w , observations principa passed, and on whicl INTERNAL PROVINCES. New Mexico lies between 30° SO' and 44" N. latitude and 104 and 108** W. longitude, and is the most northern province of tiie kingdom of New Spain ; it extends north-west into an undefined boundary, is bounded north and east by Louisiana, south by Biscay and Cogquilla, and west by Senora and California. Its length is un- known, its breadth may be 600 miles, but the inhabited part is not more than 400 miles in length and 50 in breadth, lying along the river del Norte, from the 37° to the 31« SO' N. latitude ; but in this space there is a desert of more than 250 miles. ^ir and Ciimatc—^No persons accustomed to reside in the tem- perate climate of 36 and 37 degrees of north latitude in the United States can form any idea of the piercing cold which you experience in that parallel in New Mexico ; but the air is serene and unaccom- panied by damps or fogs, as it rains but once a year, and some years not at all. It is a mountainous country. The grand dividing ridgea which separate the waters of the rio del Norte from those of Cali- fornia border it on th'- .ne of its western limits, and are covered, in some places, with eternal snows, which give a keenness to the air that could n': t be calculated upon nor expected in a temperate zone. Timber and Plains — The cotton tree is the only tree of this province, except some scrubby pines and cedars at the foot of the mountains. The former borders the banks of the rio del Norte and its tributary streams. All the rest of the country presents to the eye a barren wild of poor land, scarcely to be improved by cul- ture, and appears to be only capable of producing sufficient subsist- ence for those animals which live on succulent plants and herbage. MSnea^ Mineralsy and Fossils. — There are no mines known in the province, except one of copper situated in a mountain on the west side of the rio del Norte, in latitude ZAP N. It is worked and produces 20,000 mule-loads of copper annually. It also furnishes that article for the manufactories of nearly all the internal pro- vinces. It contains gold ; but not quite sufficient to pay for its ex- traction ; consequently it has not been pursued. There is, near Santa Fe, in some of the mountains, a stratum of talc, which is so large and flexible as to render it capable of be- ing subdivided into thin flakes, of which the greater proportion of jthe houses in Santa Fe, and all the villages to the north, have their •vindow-lights made. r APPEiNDIX TO PART III. '■ 'if N rS"* 'il River: — Tl»c river del Norte takes its source in tlic monntains (which jjivc birth to the head-waters of CHlifornia, the Plata, Pierre Jaune of the Missouri and Arkansaw of the Mississippi) in 40° N. latitude and 110" W. longitude. Its distance fronn its source to the gulf of Mexico may be, by its meanders, estimated at 3000 miles, passing through the provinces of New Mexico, part of Biscay, Co}^- quilla, and New San Ander, where it falls into the gulf in 26° N. latitude. It cannot, in any part of its course, be termed a navigable stream, owing to the sand-bars. In the flat country and mountains in the upper part, with which its course is interrupted, small boats might ascend as high as the Presidio de rio Grande in Cogquilla, and it might be navigable for canoes in various parts of its course. In the mountains above Santa Fe it aifordcd amply sufficient water for canoe navigation, and even more than appeared to be flowing in its bed in the plains. This must be attributed to numerous canals and the dry sandy soil through which the river courses and where much of the water which flowed from the mountains must be absorbed and lost. In the province of New Mexico it is called the Rio del Norte ; below it is termed the Rio Grande ; but in no instance did I hear it called the Rio Bravo, as many of our ancient maps desig- nate it. There are also, in the limits of this province, to the west, the rivers San Rafael, San Xavier, river de los Dolores, also de los Ana- mas or Nabajoa, all of which join and form the Great Rio Colorado of California. The two first take their sources in the same moun- tains as the Rio del Norte, but on the west side. The river Colorado, by its meanders, may be about 1000 miles in length, from its sources to its discharge into the head of the gulf of California, in the 33d degree of N. latitude. It has been repre- sented to me, by men of information '.nd research, to be navigable for square rigged vessels at least 300 miles from the gulf. By this river and the Arkansaw there could be the best communication es- tablished be ween the Pacific and t^e Atlantic oceans. There are represented to be various, numerous and warlike nations of Indians on its banks Throu«;h the whole of its course its Iwnks are entirely destitute of Timber, and indeed I was informed that for 300 miles there was no?: a tree ten inches in diameter. ^ The river S. Buenaventura empties into the Pacific ocean to the nortih of California in 59" 30' N. latitude, and takes its source in the Sierra Madre to the north of the Colorado and del Norte. The Rio Gila hea*is opposite to the copper-mines, and dis- APl'KNDIX TO PART III, the mountains e PUia, Pierre ippi)in40°N. 9 source lo U\c ul 2000 wiles, of Biscay, Cok- guU in26°N. mcd a navigable I and roounuvina ^icd, small boals inCoRquiiltt'a"'^ f its coui'sc. In efficient water for , be flowing in its meroua canals and I and where much ,„ust be absorbed called the Rio del in no instance dul rtcientmapsdesig- ce, to the west, the •es, also delos Ana- Great Rio Colorado in the same moun- pe about \000 miles [the head of the guU It has been repre- irch, to be navigable \ the gulf. By this communication es- oceans. There are ^e nations of Indiaijs fits Iwnks are entu-ely ;d that for 300 miles Le Pacific ocean to .d takes its source in and del Norte. Iper-mincs, a^«^ *^'^- tharges itself into the gulf of California, just bcjcw the Colorado, in the 33d degree of N. latitude. The Rio Puerto is a brunch of the Rio del Norte, and comes from the north and joins that river about 100 miles below the Prcsi- diu del Norte. None of the foregoing streams present any evidences of civiliz- ation on their siu>res but the Rio del Norte. Lakea.-^-l hcai'd of no lakes in the province, except that of Tampanagos, the existence of which I consider very doubtful. Ii is said to commence (according to Father Escalante) in the 40th deg. N. latitude, and to have been explored tn tlie 42d dcg. in a N. W. direction, where it enlarged its dimension, and the discoverer thought proper to return. ^nimala. — North Mexico produces deer, elk, buffalo, cabrie, llic gresley, black bear, and wild horses. Pofiuiation.-—lta population is not far short of 30,000 souls, one-twentieth of which may be Spaniards from Europe (or Chape- tones), four-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs,and the other half civilized Indians. The capitUl is Santa Fe, situated on a small stream which emp- ties into the east side of the Rio del Norte, at the foot of the moun- tains which divide the waters of that river from the Arkansaw and Red river of the Mississippi, in 36o N. latitude and 109'^ W. longi- tude. It is an oblong square, extending about one mile from east to west on the banks of the creek. In the centre is the public square, one side of which forms the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed and in some >J«^ree defended by round towers in the angles which flank the four curtains : another side of the square i3 foruuul by the palace of ;.^«ie governor, his guard-houses> ^c. The third side is occupied ^/ the priests and their suit, and the fourth by the Chapetones who reside in the city. The houses arc generally only one story high> fiat roofs, and have a very mean appearance on I th ing the frontiers of three provinces in a continual state of aLrm, and mailing; it necessary to employ nearly two thousand dragoons to escort the caravans, protect the villages, and revenge the various attacks they are continually making on the subjects of his Catholic majesty. This nation formerly extended from the entrance of the Rio Grande to the gulf of California, and have waged a conUnual urarfare, except short truces, with the Spaniards, from the time they pushed their enterprises back from Mexico into the internal pro> vinces. It is extremely difficult to say what are their numbers at the present day, but they must be very much reduced, from their long and constant warfare, the wandering and savage life they lead in the mountains, which is so injurious to an increase of population, and in which they are frequently extremely pinched by famine. At the commencement of their warfare the Spaniards used to take their prisoners and make slaves of them ; but finding that their unconquerable attachment to liberty made them surmount every difficulty and danger in returning to their mountains, they adopted the mode of sending them to Cuba, which the Appaches no sooner learned than they refused to give or receive quarters, and in no in- stance have there been any taken since that period, except sur* prised when asleep or knocked down and overpowered. Their arms are the bow and arrow and the lance. Their bow forms two demi-circles, with a shoulder in the middle : the backofj it is entirely covered with sinews, which are laid on in so nice a man' ner, by the use of some glutinous substance, as to be almost impep ceptible ; this gives great elasticity to the weapon. Their arrow isj more than the '* cloth yard" of the English, being three feet and half long, the upper part consisting of some light rush or cane,inti which is inserted a shaft of about one foot, made of some hard, sea' soned light wood ; the point is of iron, bone, or stone, and, whei the arrow enters the body,in attempting to extract it, the shaft come{ out of its socket and the point remains in the wound. With tbi weapon they shoot with such force as to go through the body of mian at the distance of 100 yards, and an officer told me that, in engagement with them, one of their arrows struck his shield aifiie tiiri dismounted him in an instant. Their other weapon of offence isP'iougll lance of 15 feet in length, with which they charge with both hanwectedj over their heads, managing their horses principally with their knewefore With this weapon they are considered an overmatch for the Spv)d hi loined IT fo isl wc Sl]( Ma /am effo menl iie r| cnrja APPENDIX TO PART III. U I : ■ 1 itend iVomlbe 3ogquiUa,V.eep- state of alum, and dragoons lo nge the various J of hi* Catholic 5 entrance of the vaged a continual rom the time they the internal pro- their numbers at •duced, from their ,vage life they lead pease of poi>«iation» ;hedbyfamme. e Spaniards used to hU finding that thevr em surmount every >t»tains, they adopted Appaches no sooner quarters, and m noln. ^ period, except suf bowered. r , „ Their bovr he lance. ^ "^ . .middle: the back of .id on in so nice a man-' las to be almost imper- ',apon. Their arro«« ibeing three feet an Uehtru8horcane,vn« 'jeofsomehard,«a .e or stone, and, v/hed the wound. >^» 1 'through the body o( icer told me that, >ni struck his shield a nveapon of offence j .charge vilh both H '.cipallyvvitl.the«-W ,vermatch for the Sp^ ish dragoons single handed, but, for want of a knowledge of tactics^ they can never stand the charge of a body which acts in concert. They all carry a shield. Some few are armed with guns and am- inunition taken from the Spaniards. Those, as well as the archers, generally march to war on foot; but the lancemen are always mounted. Numerous are the anecdotes I have heard related of their personal bravery and the spirit of their partisan corps. Not long before I went into that country a cornet, with 63 dragoons, be- tween New Mexico and Biscay, was surrounded by about 200 Ap- .paches infantry, and instead of charging through them, as it was on the plain, he ordered his dragoons to dismount and fight with their carabines, in consequence of which he and his whole party fell a sacrifice. Malgarss related an instance when he was marching with 140 men and they were attacked by a party of Appaches, both horse and foot, who continued the fight for four hours. Whenever the Span- ish dragoons would make a general charge, the Appaches' cavalry would rc( -* behind their infantry, who met the Spaniards with a shower • ws, who immediately retreated, and even the gallant Malgart .poke of the Spanish cavalry's breaking the Appaches' in- fantry IS a thing not to be thought of. Malgares assured me that, if the Appaches had seconded the eiTorts and bravery of their chieftain, the Spaniards must have been defeated and cut to pieces ; th|t in various instances he rallied his men and brought them up to the charge, and that when they flew, he retired indignantly to the rear. Seeing Malgares very actively engaged in forming and bringing up the Spaniards, the Appache chieftain rode out a-head of his party and challenged him to single combat with his lance. This my friend refused, as he said that the chief was one of the stoutest men he knew, carried a remarkably heavy lance, and rode a very fine charger ; but one of his corpoirals, enraged to see the Spaniards thus braved by this savage, begged permission to meet the ".infidel." His officer refused his request and ordered him to keep his ranks ; but !ie reiterating the request, his superior in a passion told him to go. The Indian chief had turned his horse to join his party, but seeing an enemy advancing, |he turned, gave a shout, and met him at full speed. The dragoon thought to parry the lance of his antagonist, which he in part ef* ected, but not throwing it quite high enough, it entered his neck efore and came out at the nape, when he fell dead to the ground, nd his victorious cneniy gave a shout of victory, in which he was joined by all his followers : this enraged the Spaniards to such a de- it '':ila - P,.\' h- ^^ S-:i i: li' .1 k -•it I 13 APPENDIX TO PART III. gree that they made a general charge, in which the Indian cavalry again retreated not^vithstandiug the entreaties of their gallant leader. In another instance a small smoke was discovered on the prai> nc ; three poor savages were surrounded by 100 dragoons and or- U^red to lay down their arms : they smiled at the officer's demand and asked him if he could suppose that men who had arms in their hands would ever consent to become slaves. The officer, being loath to kill them, held a conference for an hour, when ^^nding that his threats had as little effect as his entreaties, he ordered his men to attack them at a distance, keeping out of the reach of their ar- rows, and firing at them with their carabines, which they did, the Indians never ceasing to resist as long as life remained. In a truce which was held a Spanish captain was ordered to treat with some of the bands. He received their deputies with hao- teur, and they could not come upon terms. The truce wart broken and the Indians retreated to their fastnesses in the mountains. In a day or two this same officer pursued them : they were in « place called the door in the mountain, where but two or three dragoons could enter at a time, and there were rocks and caves on the flanks behind which the Indians secreted themselves until a number of the Spaniards had come in, when the Indians sounded a trumpet and the attack began and continued on the side of the Appaches until the Spanish captain fell, when the Indian chief caused tht fir- ing to cease, saying that " the mail who had so haughtily sp arned the proffered peace was now dead." On this occasion they devi- ated from their accustomed rule of warfare and made prisoner of a { young officer, who, during the truce, had treated them with great kindness, and sent him home'safe and unhurt. Some of the bands I have made temporary truces with the Spaniards and received fromj them 25 cents per diem each. Those people hang round the fortil ficationsof the country, drink, shoot, and dissipate their time ; they are haughty and independent. Great jealousy exists between tlteml and the Spaniards. An officer was under trial, when I was in tliel country, for anticipating an attack on iiis fortress by attacking tliei chiefs of the supposed conspiracy, and putdng them to death beforel they had time to nature and carry their plan into execution. TheT decision of his case I never learnt ; but those savages who hava been for some time about the forts and villajjes, become by far thd made prisoner of a f ted them with gre»t Some of the bands •ds and received from hang round the fonv ^pate their time i m exists between tlrein .,1, vs'hen 1 was m iW [tress by attacking tl>e ' , them to death bcN ii^to execution. The .se savages who hav. Ls, become by far h< Tyhcn hostile, as the] L\ habits, and pasM«i Lof thccivilizctlaol friendly Indians, commit murders and robberies and are not sus- pected. There is in the province of Cogquilla a partisan by the name of Ralph, who, they calculate, has killed more than SCO per- sons. He comes into the towns under the disguise of a peasant, buys provisions, goes to the gambling tables and to mass, and before he leaves the village, is sure to kill some person or carry off a wo- man, which he has frequently done. Sometimes he joinis people travelling on the road, insinuates himself into their confidence, and takes his opportunity to assassinate them. He has only six follow- ers, and from their knowledge of the country, activity, and cun- ning, he keeps about 300 Spanish dragoons continually employed. The government have offered 1000 dollars for his head. The civilized Indians of the province of New Mexico are of what was formerly twenty -four different bands, the different names of which I did not become acquainted with, but the Keres were one of the most powerful ; they form at present the population of St. Do- mingo, St. Philips, and Deis, and one or two other towns. They are men of large stature, round fnll visage, fine teeth, appear to be of a gentle, tractable disposition, and resemble the Osage more than any nation of whom I possess any knowledge. They are not the vas- sals of Individuals, yet may properly be termed the slaves of the state, for they are compelled to do military duty, drive mules, carry loads, or in fact perform any other act of duty or bondage thut the will of the commandant of the district, or any passing r.tilitary ty- rant chooses to ordain. I was myself eye-witness of a scene which made my hea: t bleed for those poor wretches, at the same time that it excited my indignation and cont&mpt, that th jy .vould suffer them- selves, with arms in their hands, to be beut and knocked about by beings no ways tlieir superiors, unless a small tint cf complexion could be supposed to give that superiority. P'''ore we arrived at Santa Fe, one night, we were near one of the villages where resided the families cf '.wo of our Indian horsemen. They took the liberty to pay them a visit in the night. Next morning the whole of the Indian horsemen were called up, unci because they refused to testify against their imprudent companions, several were knocked down from their horsts by the Spanish dragoons with the butt of their lances ; yet, with the blood streaming down their visages, and arms in their hands, they stood cool and trunqiiil : not a frown, not a word of discontent or palliation escaped their lips. Yet what must have been the boiling indignation of th»'ir souls at tlTe indignities oflered by the wretch clothttd with a littje brief authoiiiy ; but the day of retribution will come in thunder and in veng'.ance. , 1 i i ■ :; I !!.'«: Ill:' h 14 APPENDIX TO PART III. hi.y m;i • . ha i t ! J n 'I ' -.In Those savages are armed with bow and arrows and with lances, or escopates. I Although they are said to be converted to Christianity, they still retain many of their ancient rituals, feasts, and ceremonies, one of which is so remarkable it must not be passed unnoticed. Once a year there is a great feast prepared for three successive iWji hich they spend in eating, drinking, and dancing. Near to th.*' e^e of amusement is a dark cave, into which not a glimpse of Ikf^ht can penetrate and in which is prepared places to repose on. To this place persons of all descriptions, of both sexes and of all ages, after puberty, and repair in the night, where there is an indiscrimi. nate commerce of the votaries, as chance, fortune, and events di< rect. Those revels certainly have great affinity to soone of the an< eient mystic rights of Greece and Rome. Government and Laws. — The government of New Mexico may b' termed military, in the pure sense of the word ; for although they have their alcades or inferior officers, their judgments are sub- ject to a reversion by the military comniandants of districts. The whole male population are subject to military duty, without pay or emolument, and are obliged to find their own horses, arms and pro- vision. The only thing furnished by the government is ammuni- tion, and it is extraordinary with what subordination they act when they are turned out to do military duty, a strong pr >f of which was exhibited in the expedition of Malgares to the Pawnees. His command consisted of 100 dragoons of the regular service and 500 drafts from the province. He had continued down the Red river until their provision began to be short : they then demanded of the lieutenant where he was bound and the intention of the expedition : To this he hai]ghtily replied, " wherever his horse led him." A few mornings after lie was presented with a petition, signed by 200 of the militia, to return home. He halted immediately, and caused ills dragoons to erect a gallows ; then beat to arms. The troops fell in : he separated the Jietitioners from the others, then took the man who had presented the petition, tied him up, and gave him 50 j lashes, and threatened to put to death, on the gallows erected, any man who sliould dare to grumble. This effectually silenced them, and quelled the rising spirit of sedition ; but it was remarked that it was the first instance of a Spaniard receiving corporal punishmentj ever known in the province. Morals, Maimers, is'c. — There is nothing peculiarly character! istic in this province that will not be embraced in my general obser- vations on New Spain, except that being frontier, and cut off, asiJ APPENDIX TO PART III. \9 and with lances, hriatlanlty, they ind ceremonies, issed unnoticed, three successive jnclng. Nf«^'"to :h not a glimpse jces to repose on. tes and of all ages, B is an indlscrltnl- ne, and events di- to some of the an- of New Mexico word; for although judgments are sub- i of districts. The uty, without payor >rse8, arms and pro- rnmentlsammum. atlon they act when ,pr>f of which was the Pawnees. His ular service and 5O0 down the Red river .en demanded of the n of the expedition: horse led him." A .tltlon, signed by 200 lediately, and caused arms. The iroop^ others, then took the up, and gave him 50 gallows erected, any | ctually silenced them, lit was remarked that corporal pvuushmeiitl ^ peculiarly character' hin my general obser- |nlier,and cut off, as •• were, from the more inhabited parts of the kingdom, together with their continual wars with some of the savage nations who sur- round them, render them the bravest and most hardy subjects in New Spain ; being generally armed, they knou the use of them. Their want of gold and silver renders them laborious, in order that the productions of their labor may be the means of establishing the equilibrium between them and the other piovinces where those metals abound. Their insolated and remote situation also causes them to exhibit, in a superior degree, the heaven-like qualities of hospitality and kindness, in which tiiey appear to endeavor to fulfil the injunction <>f the scripture, which enjoins us to feed the hungry, tilothe the naked, and give comfort to the oppressed in spirit, and I shall alwa^ s take pleasure in expressing my gratitude for their noble reception of myself and the men under my command. Military Force. — There is but one troop of dragoons in all New Mexico of the regular force, which is stationed at Santa Fe, and is 100 strong. Of this troop the governor is always the captain, entitling himself captain of the royal troop of S^ 'a Fe dragoouK ; but they are commanded by a first lieutenant, who i^ captain by brevet. The men capable of bearing arms in this province may be estimated at 2000 1 of those probably 1000 are completely armed, 1000 badly, and the rest not at all. Helicon.— 'The catholic religion is practised in this province after the same manner as in the other provinces, and will hereafter be taken notice of generally. Histcry.'—ln the year 1594 two friars came out from Old Mex- ico to New Mexico, and were well received by the savagi •». They returned, and the ensuing year Juan de Ouute, a monk, went out, explored the country, and returned. After this 100 troops and 500 men, women, and children came out and settled on the Rio del Norte, some, no very great, distance from where Santa Fe now stands. They enterec' into an arrangement with the Indians on the subject of their establishment ; but a few years after the Indians rose en masae, fell on the Spaniards by surprise, killed most of the soldiers, and obliged them to retreat to the Passo del .Norte (from whence it acquired its name). Here they waited a reinforcement from Biscay, which they received, of 70 men and two field-pieces, with which they recommenced their march and finally arrived at Santa Fe, then the capital Indian village, to which they immediately laid siege. The Indians maintained themselves twenty-two days, when they surrendered and entered into a second negotiation, since [which time the Spaniards have been engaged in continual warfare '\, illiii! I* Uf APPENDIX TO PART III. I J I i vith the various savage tribes vrhich surround them on all sides, and who have been near ruining themselves several timest and obliged them to apply for reinforcements from Biscay and Senora. A few years since the Tetaus carried on a warm and vigorous war against them^ but are now at pe^ce and considered as their firmest allies. In the history of New Mexico it may not be improper to re- cord the name of James Purslcy, the first American who ever pene- trated the immense wilds of Louisiana, and shewed the Spaniards of New Mexico that neither the savages who surround the deserts which divide them from the habitable world, nor the jealous tyranny of their rulers, was sufficient to prevent the enterprising spirit of the Americans penetrating the arcanum of their rich establish- ment of the new world. Pui Jey was from near Baird's town, Ken- tucky, which he left in 1799. In 1802, with two companions, he left St. Louis and travelled west, on the head of the Osage river, where they made a hunt : from thence they struck for the White river of the Arkansaw, and intended to descend it to Orleans ; but, while making preparations, the Kans stole their horses. They secured their peltries and pursued them into the village. The horses were there, but the Indians refused to give them up. Purs- ley saw his horse, with an Indian on him, going to the water at the edge of the town, pursued him, and with his knife ripped open the horse's bowels. The Indian returned to the village, got his gun, and came and snapped it at Pursley, who pursued him into the vil- lage with his knife. The Indian took refuge in a lodge surrounded by women and c!>ildren. This struck the chiefs with astonishment und adniitation of the " mad Americans," as they termed them, and they returned ..he other horses to the hunters. This anecdote was related by traders who were in the village at the time. Pursley and his companions theii returned to where they had buried their peltiy, and determined to pursue the route by land to St. Louis : but some persons stole their horses a second time, when they were at no great distance from the Osage river, on which they formed a rough canoe and descended that stream. Near the entrance of the Mis- .souri they overset their canoe and lost their whole year's hunt, but | saved their arms nnd ammunition, which is always the primary ob- ject in a desert. In the Missouri they met Monsieur ini his barge, bound to the Mandanes. Pufsley embarked with him forj the voyage : his two companions prefered returning to their homes. On their arrival a^ the point of destination, his employer dispatchedl Pursley on a hunting and trading tour, with some bands of the Padj H APPENDIX TO PART III. ur tlucas and Kyaways, with a small quantity of merchandise. In the ensuing spring they were driven from the plains by the Sioux into the mountains which give birth to the La Phitte, Arkansaw, Sec. &CC. and it was their sign which we saw in such amazing abun* dance on the head waters of La Platte. Their party consiste4 of near 2,000 souls, with 10,000 beasts. * The Indians, knowing they were approximating to New Mexico, determined to send Purs* ley, with his companions and two of their body, into Santa Fe, to know of the Spaniards if they would receive them friendly and enter into a trade with them. Tiiis being acceded to by the govcr* nor ( Allencaster) the Indian deputies returned for their bands; but Puraley thought proper to remain wiih a civilized people, which » fortuitous event had thrown him among, a circumstance which, he assured me, he had at one time entirely despaired of. He arrivecj at Santa Fe in June 1805, and had been following his trade, a cur* penter, ever since, at which he made a great deal of money, except when working for the officers, who paid him little or nothing. He was a man of strong natural sense and dauntless intrepidity. He entertained me with numerous interesting anecdotes of his adven* lures with the Indians, and of the jealousy of the Spanish govern* ment. He was once near being hanged for making a lew pounds of gun-powder, which he innocently did, as he had been accustomed to do in Kentucky, but which is a capital crime in these provinces. He still retained the gun which he had with him \\U - 'hole tour, and poke confidently that if he had two hours start not all the province could take him. He was forbidden to write, but was assured he ihould have a passport whenever he demanded it, but was obliged ,y termed ihem, and Bio give security that he would not leave the country without permis* This anecdote vrai ■jq^ of the government. He assured me that he had found gold on lime. Puvsley and m^^^ \ie^A of La Platte, and had carried some of the virgin mineral buried their pelU7, ■„ f,jg ahot-pouch for months ; but that being in doubt whether h* St. Louis : but some Bhould ever again behold the civilized world, and losing in his mind ihey were at no gveat m\ ^^ i^ggi -value which mankind have stamped on that metal, he icy formed a tougn mjg^ t^g sample away : that he had imprudently mentioned it to ntrance of the Mis-mj, Spaniards, who had frequently solicited him to go and shew "• rhole year's hunt, but Betachment of cavalry t! e place, but that conceiving it in pur terri^' ays the pvi««*''y .* Irjr he had refused, and was fearful that the circumstance might onsieur '"leate a great obstacle to hi84eaving the country. .barked with him fori Geography Biscay lies-between 33° and 34" N. latitude and rning to thpir homes. Ijo ^^^ j j jo ^y longitude, is bounded on the north by New Me»i» employer dispatched I ^^^^ ^j^^ west by Senora and Sinaloa, and on the east by New Leo» me bands of the Pad-Ij Cogquilla. It i« 600 miles in length from north-west to southf IS A on all sides, ral times, and jty and Senora. I vigorous war ^s their firmest improper to re- who ever pene- ;he Spaniards of ,undlhe deserts e jealous tyranny rprising spirit oi ir rich esiablish- laird's town, Ken- companions, he f the Osage river, ack for the While Lt to Orleans 1 but, eir horses, 'i'hey the village. The ve them up. Vurs- to the water at the ife ripped open the iUage, got his guTj, led him into the vil- a lodge surrounded with astonishment •►i:; il ■■ •iili'iii n 13 APPENDIX TO PART III. east, and 400 miles in width from east to west, taking it at its great* est extent. jlir and Climate. — The air is dry and the heat very great at that season of the year, which precedes the rainy season, which comnncnces in June and continues until September by light show- ers. During the other "part of the year there is not the least rain or snow to moisten the earth. The atmosphere had therefore be- come so electrified, that when we halted at night, in taking off our blankets the electric fluid would ahnost cover them with sparks, and in Chibuubua we prepared a bottle with gold-leaf, as a receiver, and collected sufTicient of the electric fluid from a bear-skin to give a considerable shock to a number of persons. This phenomenon was more conspicuous in the vicinity of Chihuahua than in any other part that we passed over. J\ Tinea and Minerala. — This province abounds in silver and gold mines, which yield an immense quantity of those metals, but not so threat a revenue to the king as those which are nearer the mint, and consequently present a greater facility to coinage. I am not acquainted with the proportion of the metals which the mineral yields in any instance, except in one of the silver mines at Chihua. i:ua, which belonged to a friend of mine, who informed me that his mine yielded him 13 1-2 dollars per cwt. I one day, with Robinson, went through many of these furnaces and noticed the manner which they pursued in analysing the mineral and extraetir j the metals, but, as I had previously asked several Spanish oflicers to ac company me, who had always declined or defered it to a future pc riod, I conceived it probable it was too delicate a subject to makeal minute inquiry into. I, however, so far observed the process asti learn that the mineral was brought from the mines in bags, mules, to the furnace: it was then ground or pounded into smi lumps, not more than the size of a nut, and precipitated into waterj in a bievc which permitted the smaller particles to escape intoatui through several progressive operations. From the small particli which remained at the bottom of the tubs, after it had been purifiej of the earthy qualities, there was a proportipn of metal extract! by a nicer process ; but. the larger parts were put into a furnace milar to our iron furnaces, and when it was in a state of fusion, it wi let out into a bed of sand prepared .for it which formed it inl bars about tlie size of our common pig iron, averaged in valuelsgoy about 2rS00 dollars. The gold was cast into a mould similar tAci dis bowl and stamped, as was each bar of silver, by the king's essanurse of metals, with its value. They were worth from 8 to 1 0,000 dljo del I 1 v< (u vo be the the /on itp! atth fore ceasi silve; toin< APPENDIX TO PART III. 19 Is lars. These masses of silver and gold are then received into tlie king's treasury in payment, and in fact have a currency through the kingdom ; but there are vast speculations made on the coinagej aa people who have not large capitals prefer selling their bullion, in the internal provinces, at a considerable discount, to being obliged to transport it to Mexico, in order to have it converted into specie. The present C— — — , I was informed, was engaged in this traf- fic, on which, from the province of Senora, he sometimes made 25 per cent. Numbers of the proprietors who have no immediate use for their bullion put it into their cellars, where it remains piled up for their posterity, of no service to themselves or the community. There are at Chihuahua and its vicinity fifteen mines, thirteen sil- ver, one gold, and one copper, the furnaces of all of which are si- tuated round the town and suburbs, and present, except on Sundays, volumes of smoke arising to the eye in every direction, which can be seen from a distance long before the spires of the city strike the view. It is incredible tlie quantity of cinders which surround the city in piles ten or fifteen feet high : next the creek they have formed a bank of it to check the encroachments of the stream, and it presents an effectual barrier. I am told that an European employed some hands and wrought at the cinders and that it yielded .one dollar and twenty-iive cents for each per day ; but that this not answering his expectations, he ceased his proceedings. At Mausseme there is one gold and seven silver mines. At Durango there are many and rich mines, but the number to me is unknown. There are also gold mines in the Sierra Madrc, near Alomas, and many others of which I have no knowledge. There is in the (led into smaiHprovince, about one hundred miles south of Chihuahua, a mountain • 'tated into watetBor hill of loadstone. Walker, who had been on the ground and sur- P*^^ scape intoatuWreyedit, informed me it appeared to be solid strata, as regular as Vk smaW particlefcat of limestone, or any other of the species. He had brouglk ""' 't \ ad been puvi&efcome a square piece of near a foot and a half, was preparing some • f metal extractelobe sent to Spain, and likewise forming magnets to accompany it, 'f^^^ . ^ furnace Ai order that their comparative strength might be ascertained witli t te of fusion, itviftiagnets formed in Europe. Y^ . u formed it "I Rivera. — Rio Conchos is the largest in the province. It takes r • ed in valuels source in the Sierra Madre, near Batopilis in 28° N. latitude, V' *^ uld similar tifid discharges itself into the Rio del Norte in the 31°, alter a ^ the king'* ess»j|)urse of about 300 miles. It is the largest western branch of the i^"^' ^ o ♦«. lO.OOOiiio del Norte, and receives in its course the Rio Florido from the g it at its great- at very great at ,y season, which Bi- by light show, not the least rain ,ad therefore be- in taking off ouv „ with sparks, and as a receiver, and ,ear.skin to gives This phenomenon uahua than in any dsin silver and gold ose metals, but not are nearer the mint, , comage. * , which the mineral ver mines at Chihua- informed me that hu ,e day, >vith Robinson, ^ noticed the tnannet al and extraetir? the Spanish officers to ac fered it to a future pe- te a subject to make a| „rved the process as tr the mines in bags, or , .ill, i, '•'■ ' ' i if" 111: '- ,'i ;■ 'I IT II : ■ iilliiiiii 5" Uf 80 APPENDIX TO PAUT lit. :\ f ■1 cast and San Panbia from tlie west« where we struck the Conchas It ap|)eurcd to be nearly as large as the Hio del Norte at the Passu. The Hio San Paiibla is the largest westvin branch of the Coii' chos, and heads in 28" 51/ N. latitude, and empties into the latter at Bukinoa. Its whole course is about 150 miles: in summer it iy nearly dry, and in the rainy seasons impassable. The Rio Morido takes its rise in latitude 26 1-3 N. and after a course of about 150 milest discharges itself into the Conchos. Guaxcquillo is situated on its east bank about its centre. The Rio Nassus is in part the line between Biscay and Cog- <)uilla : it runs north and sinks in the lake du Cayman ; it is nearly dry in the dry seasons, but at tofne seasons it is impassable. Lakea.—'L^c du Cayman and lac du Parras are two small lakeS) situated at tlie foot of the mountains and arc full of fish. ,/inirnala, ifiaect.i, Vc— There are some few bears, deer, and wild horses, but they are not in abundance. The scorpions of Du* fango are one of the most remarkable instances of the physical effects of climate or air that I ever saw recorded. They come out of the walls and crevices in May, and continue about a fortnight in such numbers that the inhabitants never walk in their houses after dark without a light, and always shift or examine the bed* clothes and beat the curtains previous to going to bed) after which I the curtains are secured under the bed, similar to the precautions we take with our musquito curtains. The bite of those scorpionsb j, hf.ii been known to prove mortal in two hours. The most extraor'T dinary circumstance is that by taking them ten leagues from Duran- go, they become perfectly harmless and lose all theiv vencmousl qualities. Query, Does it arise from a change of air, sustenance, oi[ What other cause ? Pofiujation and Chief Tbwns.— The population of Biscay majl \f}^i be estimated at 200,000: of these three>twentieths may be Spani-lgeiy ards from Europe, iive*twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifslada and Quatroons, and seven-twentieths Indians. Durango was foundedl^gj in 1550. It is the principal city, the seat of governnient for thJ(fm.j province of Biscay and of the bishoprick of Durango. Its popuiilthei} tion may be estimated at 40,000 souls. It is situated in 25" N| latitude and 107*» W. longitude. IVort Pallalein, situated somewhere at the foot of the Sierra MadriJihey is supposed to contain 25,000 souls. Pninii Chihuahua, the place of residence of the commandant genlheep ral of the internal provinces, was founded in 1691, is situated Iriore 29® N. latitude, 107" 30' VV. longitude. Its population may be elersoj timated at 7,000. It is an oblong square, on the east side of a smf APPENDIX TO PART III. 't I k the ConcboH le at ihe Pa»»o. nchof OicCon. •„M0 U»c laltcr at In »«mmcf "^^ *** .aN. at>d after B Uo the Conchirt. centre. 1 Biscay aw^ <^°S' • »« • it is nearly lyman , w »" ' [npaH»ab\c. urctwoamaUlaWes, \ of fisb" , ,w bears, deer, and he acorpw"* of Du' fttceam which discharges itself intu the river Conchos. On its south extremity is a sniuH but elegant church. In the public s(|uure Btunda the principal church, royal treasury, town-house, and the richest shops. At the western extremity is another church for the military, a superb hospital, Ijclonging formerly to the Jesuits' pos' Aes&ions, the church of the monks of St. Francis, St. Domingo, the military academy, and quurtcl del tropa. On the north-west were two or three missions very handsomely situated on a small stream which comes in from the west. About one mile to the south of thu town is a lurf^e aqueduct which conveys the water round it, to the east, into the main stream below the town, in the centre of which is raised a reservoir for the water, from whence it is to be conducted by pipes to the diflcrent parts of the city, and in the public square is to be a fountain and jet d'eau^ which will be both ornarr 'ntal and useful. The principal church at Chihuahua was the most superl> building we saw in New Spain. Its vhole front was covered with statues of the apostles and the different saints, set in niches of the wall, and the windows, doors, &c. ornamented with sculptu v. I never was within the doors, but was informed by Bohinson that i.ie decorations were immensely rich. Some men, whom wc supposed entitled to credit, informed us that the church was built by u tax of 12 1-3 cents laid on each ingot of gold or silver taken oiit of the mines in the vicinity in — — years. Its cost, with decorations, w!»9 1,500,000 dollars, and when it was finished there remained 300,000 dollars of the fund unappropriated. At the south side of Chiliua- hua is the public walk, formed by three rows of trees whose branches nearly entwined over the heads of the passengers below. At different distances there are seats for persons to repose them- selves on. At each end of the walks there were cir. ^^t seats, on . Qf Biscay tn*)l which, in the evening, the company collected and i ;k ised them- • h may be Spaw^ selves with the guitar, songs hi Spanish, Italian, and Frenchi c entieths Metiw adapted to the voluptuous manners of the country. In this city, as Q yfas foundeJwell as all others of any consideration, there are patroles of soldiers f vernment for tMduring the night, who stop every person at 9 o'clock and examine ° . eo. l^s popuUlthem. My countersign was " Americans." ituated in 25* ^ Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. — Biscay trades with iMorth .Mexico, Senora, and the vice-royalty, from the latter of which 1 c \\ Sierra Madtilthey bring on mules all their dry goods, European furniture, books, ■ limmunition. Sec. They furnish a great quantity of horses, mules, mtnandant geiiiheep, beeves, goats, &c. to the parts of the kingdom which arc • \M\ is situatedluore populous and have less spare ground for pasturage, &c. Some f * \ tion may be elersons make large fortunes by being the carriers from Mexico to Is pop . 1^ In the east side oi * ices of the physical corded. Theycorae ,nue about a fortnight ^alk in their house* or examine the bed- „ to bed, after whiCA Uartotheprecautt«m ite of those scorpion The most extract. ,n leagues from Duran. all theiv vencmous of air, sustenance, - oil i il! i i'"- 32 APPENDIX TO PART III. ¥.u Chihuahua, the freight being eight dollars per cwt. and they gene< rally put 300 pounds on each mule. The mercliants make their remittances twice a year in bullion. Goods sell at Chihuahua about 200 per cent on the prices of our Atlantic sea port towns. Their horses average at six dollars, but some have sold as high as 100 : their trained mules at 20 dollars ; but extraordinary matches for car* riages have sold at 400 dollars per pair. Rice sells at four dollars per cwt. They manufacture some few arms, blankets, stamped leather, embroidery, coarse cotton and woollen cloths, and a species of rough carpeting. Their blankets average two dollars, but some sell as high as 25 dollars. Agriculture. — They cultivate wheat, corn, rice, oats, cotton, flax, indigo, and vines. What I have said relative to the cultivation of those articles in New Mexico will equally apply to this province, but it may be proper to observe here that one of Nolan's men con- structed the first cotton gin they ever had in the province, and that Walker had caused a few churns to be made for some private fami- lies, and taught them the use of them. Timber^ Plains and Soil. — To the north of Chihuahua, about 30 miles to the right of the main road, there is some pine timber, and at a spring on this side of Carracal we saw one walnut-tree, and on all the small streams there are shrubby cotton-trees. With these few exceptions the whole province is a naked, barren plain, which presents to the eye an arid, unproductive soil, and more especially in the neighborhood of mines ; even the herbage appears to be poi- soned by the mineral qualities of the soil. Antiquities. — There are none in the province which came within my notice but the Jesuits' college and church at Chihuahua, which were about a century old, and are used as hospitals. In these there was nothing peculiar, except a certain solidity and strength, which appeared to surpass the other public buildings of the nity. Aborigines.— 'Hhcrt are no uncivilized savages in this province I rece except the Appaches, of whom I have spoken largely. (Vide Ap. to I per Part III. p. 10.) The Christian Indians are so incorporated amongst Icivijl the lower grades of metifs that it is scarcely possible to draw the line I the iJ of distinction, except at the ranelios of some nobleman or large land- |')atioJ holder, where they are in a state of vassalage. This class of peo' pic laid a conspiracy, which was so well concerted as to baffle the I'armc inquiries of the Spaniards for a length of time, and to occasion I'vher them the loss of several hundred of the inhabitants. The Indians pcarcij APPENDIX TO PART III. 23 nd they gene- ts make their lihuahua about towns. Their high aa 100 : matches for car- J at four doUars itamped leather. species of rough but some sell as ice, oats, cotton, to the cultivation « to this province, Nolan'smen con- province, and that some private fatni- :hihuahua, about 30 ^e pine umber, and iwalnut-tree, and on trees. With these barren pl^n,v,hich aul more especially •e appears to be poL- Lince vrhich came Lurch at Chihuahua, led as hospitals. 1" I certain solidity and public buildings ot Les in this province largely. (VWeAp. to tcorporatedamongs LbletodrawtheUne Leman or large land- 1 This class of peo erted as to baffle the time, and to occasion Ltants. Thelndiansl used to go out from their villages in small parties : in a short time a part would return with the report that they had been attacked by the Indians ; the Spaniards would immediately send out a detach- ment in pursuit, when they were led into an ambuscade and every soul cut off. They pursued this course so long that the whole pro- vince became alarmed at the rapid manner in which their enemies multiplied ; bui. some circumstances leading to a suspicion, they made use of the superstition of those people for their ruin. Some officers disguised themselves like friars and went round amongst the Indiana, pretending to be possessed of the spirit of prophecy. They preached up to the Indians that the oay was approaching when a general deliverance from the Spanish tyranny was about to take place, and invited the Indians to join in concerting with them the work of God. The poor creatures came forward, and in their confessions stated the great hand that had already been put to the work. After these pretended friars had ascertained the nature and extent of the conspire cy, and had a body of troops prepared, they commenced the execution and put to death about 400 of the unsus- pecting Indians. This struck terror and dismay through the Indian villages, and they dared not rise and declare their freedom and inde- pendence. Government and Za?»«.— In this province there is some sha- dow of civil law ; but it is merely a shadow, as the following anec- dote may illustrate. An officer, on arriving at a village, demanded quarters for himself and troops. The supreme civil officer of the place sent him word that he must show his passport. The military officer immediately sent a file of men, who brought the judge a pri- soner before him, when he severely reprimanded the judge for his insolence and obliged him to obey his orders instantly. This has been done by a subaltern, in a c<*y of 20,000 inhabitants. The only laws which can be said to be in force are the military and ecclesias- tic, hetween which there is a perfect understanding. The governor is a brigadier-general, resides at Durango, and receives 5000 dollars, in addition to his pay in the line. It is pro- per to observe that there are ordinances to bear on each subject of civil discussion, but the administration of them is so corrupt, that the influence of family and fortune generally procure the determi- nation that they have right on their side. In each town is a public magazir.e for provisions, where every farmer brings whatever grain and produce he may have for sale, where he is sure to meet with a market ; and should there be a scarcity the ensuing year, it is retailed out to the inhabitants at a ■'■'^ -lii i ■ i,,;'. 1 f Bv 24 APPENDIX TO PART III. m ML. / reasonable rate. To this place all the citizens of the town repair to purchase. Morula, Manners, isfc. — There is nothing peculiar in the man- ners or morals of the people of this province, but a mucli greater degree of luxury among the rich, misery among the poor, and a corruption of morals more general than in New Mexico. As to military spirit they have none. At a muster of a regiment of mili- tia at Chihuahua one of my men attended, and informed me that there were about 25 who had lire>arms and lances, 50 with bows and arrows and lances, and the balance with lances or bows and arrows only. Military Force.-— -The regular military force of Biscay consists of 1 Too dragoons, distributed as follows : On the frontiers of the deserts of New Mexico and Senora, at the forts of Elisiaira, Carra* cal, and San Buenaventura, Presidio del Norte, Janos, Tulenos, and San Juan Baptist. Farther south are Chihuahua, Jeronime, Cay* one, San Paubla, Guaxequillo,and Conchos, with several other places which are appendages of those positions. The complement of each of those posts is 150 men, but may be averaged at 1 100 in all, say 100 at each post. The militia are not worthy of particular notice. Regi lion. —.Biscay is in the diocese of Durango, the bishop'^ salary being estimated at 100,000 dpllars per annum. The catholic religion is here in its full force, but the inferior clergy are very much dissatisfied. The people's superstition is so great that they arc running after the holy father in the streets, and endeavoring to kiss the hem of his garment, and should the bishop be passing the street, the rich and poor all kn«el. Hiatory.—-l shall not presume to say any thing on this subject except that I believe this province has been populated about 270 years. Geografihy. — Senoua lies between the 33" and 27° N. latitude and 1 10° and 1 17° W. longitude. Its greatest length from north to south is about 420 miles, and its width from cast to west 380 miles. | It is bounded north by New Mexico, west by California, south by Si* naloa and the gulf, east by Biscay and New Mexico. tum^Cq qj • jlir and Climate. — Dry, pure, and healthy generally, but near! the gulf the ground is marshy, and it is, in some of the districts, | unhealthy. Minesy Minerals, and Fossils.— On this subject I can only spcakl in general. Senora abounds in rich gold and silver mines, but morel especially the former, inasmuch as the gold does not preserve itsi usual exchange with silver in this proTixice. General Salcedo tolif ■ii|£*^ ml- APPENDIX TO PART III. 95 ii uie that in this province the hii-(^est piece of pure gold had been found ever yet discovered in New Spain, and tliat it had been sent to the kin}; to be put in Ids cabinet of curiosities, &c Jiivera.— li'io de I'Ascencion is a short river which enters the gulf of California about the 31* N. latitude. Uio Yaqui heads on the borders of Uiscay and Senora and dis- charges itself into the gulf of California at Guyamas at the 28^ N. latitude. Timber, Plains, and Soil. — This province is, like Biscay, desti* tute of timber, but has some rich soil near t.ie gulf. jinimala. — There arc deer, cabrie, and bear ; there are also re- markably large lizards, which arc said to weigh ten pounds, and are perfectly hanniess, tamed by the inhabitants and trained to catch mice. Pofiulation and Chief Towns. — The population of Senora may be estimated at 200,000 souls, of which three-twe.itieths probably are Spaniards, four-tweniieths Creoles, six-twentieths MetifS) and seven-twentieths Indians. Arispea, the capit.^1 of Senora, and until 20 years past the seat of government of the internal provinces, is situated in 3 1° N< latitude and 1 1 1° W. longitude, near the head of the river Yaqui. It is celebrated throughout the kingdom for the urbanity and hospi- tality of its inhabitants and the vast quantity of gold table utensils made use of in their houses. Its population is 3,400 souls. Sonora and Terena^e are the next cities in magnitude in the province, the latter to the north and the former to the south of the capital. Trade and Commerce. — Senora trades with New Mexico and ^ "a about 270 B Biscay for the productions of those different provinces, and with ^ Old Mexico both by laud and sea, through the gulf of California. It is celebrated for its cheese, horses, and sheep. jigriculture. — They cultivate the same as in Biscay. uiborigine8.—T][itv& are a number of savage nations bordering n Senora, which oblige the king to keep up a number of military sts on the north and western frontiers ; but the names of the ribes, or any of their distinguished characters, I am unacquainted ith ; however, it may not be improper to observe that they are irmed with bows, arrows, shield and lance, like their savage ncigh- rs. The civilized Indians are in the same situations as in the er provinces. Government and Xaw9.<«-Similar to Biscay, the governor bC" 19; rn repair to in the man- ucb greater poor, and a xico. As to nent of miU- n\ed me that ^vith bows and vs and arrows aiscay consists rontievs of the •Usiaira, Carra- 8 Tulenos, a"^ Jeronitne, Cay- era\ other places pletnentofeach t \ 100 in all, say rlicular notice. ^ jgcthe bishops The catholic . "clergy are very great that they k\ endeavoring to op be passing the ngon this subject >>^ ^»K' Ind 27« N. laliW'^" ,^lh from north to I to west 380 miles. fgeneraUy, but near ,^e of the districts, lectl can only spcal^l U mines, but morel js not preserve i« leneral Sa^cedo tol^ mi if j mlm, '■^:n iiiiP :l!^^ h 26 appendix: to part hi. t/ 6>- P7 « M » i -li - ? * 1^ 'yalty. The increasing magnitude of the relations of New Spain with the United States also gave an importance to the easten interests which induced the continuance of the seat of government at Chihuahua. Geography . — Sikaloa lies between the 23** and 28° N. latitadej atid 108° and 111* W. longitude and is bounded north by Senoraj and Biscay, erJt by the latter, south by the administration t>f Guadii' laxara, and west by the gulf of California, and in its greatest lengi is 300 miles, north and south, and in width from east to west I5i miles. Mr and Climate. — On the sea coast humid, but back dry ani pure. Mtnea, Minerals, and Fossils.— There are both gold and silvi tnines ; but as to their relative value or productions, I am unacj quaintcd. Rivers.-^K\o Fuerte takes its source in 27° N. latitude 1 10° VV. longitude and disembogues itself into the gulf of C fornia. It crosses the whole province and is nearly 150 miles Ici Rio Culican is not more than 50 miles in length and enters gulf of California iii 25° N. latitude. war nits ischaj erei] tha WiW' APPENDIX TO PART III. 99 Timber^ Platna, and 5o//.->No timber ; soil similar to Senora. jhiimah .—Domestic only. Pofiutation and Chief Townt. -^lii population may be estimated at 60,000, not more than three-twentieths of whom are Spaniards ; the remainder Creoles, Metifs, and Indians. Sinaloa is the capital, but its population, extent, &c. to me is unknown. Trade and Commerre— Unacquainted with. jigriculture. — The same as Senora. jiboTiginet.—'ifioti^ who are not :ivilized. Government and X.aw«— Unacquainted with. Military Force.— One hundred dragoons for expresses and a guard for the governor. ReUgion. — Catholic in the diocese of the bishop of Durango. History. — ^To me unknown. Geography. — The province of Cogquilla lies between the 3 1° and 33" 30^ N. latitude and lOi'' and 105° W. longitude, and its greatest length north and south may be 500 miles, and in its great- est width east and west 200 miles. It is bounded north by New Mexico and Texas* east by the latter, San Ander, and New Leon, south by the administration of Zacataca, and west by Biscay. j^ir and C//ma/r.— Pure and healthy, except about tlie middle* of May, when the heat is intense, and sometimes a scorching wind is felt, like the flame issuing from an oven or furnace, which fre- "" £ jrovernmeniH quently skins the face and affects the eyes. This phenomenon is felt more sensibly &bout the setting of the sun than at any other o d 28° N> lat&tndcl period of the twenty-four hours. ' A A north by SenonB Mineti MineraUt and Fo9fil9. — I know of no mines in this pro- '^.^. . .(ionof (^u^^V>nce, except at Mpntielovez and San Rosa, with the valtie of "*•" 't Bveatest lengtlBwhich I am unacquainted ; Iwt those of San Rosa are reputed to " „.. lowest ISVbeasrlch fa any silver mines in the kingdom. Montelovez has from e»** *■ ■ -j ui ione very considerable. Rivera. — This province has no river of magnitude or conse- [uence but the Rio Grande, which crosses its northern part in a iuth-ea«t direction. Laket. — There is a ymall lake, called the Aqua Verde, situated |n its western extremities, which gives rise to a small stream that ischavges itself into the Rio del Norte. Timber^ Plaint^ and Soil^ — From the river Nassus to the east inw "••"^^^ miles loAere is the palmetto, which grows to ^e height of 30 and 25 feet, L'^fr., Jth and enters t)f th a trunk of two feet diameter. Its leaves are in tlie shape of a ar, and cover all the trunk vrhen young, but fall off as the tree addition to his ir to Biscay, ex- I this province is ,g. Tubson, San ,<,oon3 each for a -Isitesintbecen- iHta on the south, mentioned above Ure said to be the ■ntof thematChi- men^andwetethc , acting like a band for their officers. ishop of Durango. that the seat of go. nerly at Avispca, at also under the com- . but the removal disjunct situauooo .egoverntnentof^^ the relattons of Nevi ortance to the eastern Ud, but back dry anj ,re both gold and silv koductions,laTnun« i„ 37° N. latitude into the gulf of ^ :iiiii,;(r m length and ' ^i|:'l • Y--"j^ sa APPENDIX TO PART III. 4 ;ll-' ' III ■ -4 n 1 grows old. Its wood is of a spongy nature, and from every infor- maiion I could pvo'^ure, i? of the same species as that of the same name in the southern states. One hundred miles to the east ol the Rio Grande, oak timbci' commenced, being the first we had seen in the pvoviHces ; 'w: it was very small and scrubby, iir.rl pivsdntcd, from this to the 'me of Texas (the river Ma.iaiia), s. very |/(;iccpa- ble grada'.ion of the increase of limber, both ii- rui irii:/, luxiirianre. and variety. The country now hecam< very sitnilav ir> the Tndi sn territoi-y. Animah.- D -ir, wild horses, a fev biiflTalo ; -kI wild hogs. Po/tulation and Chief J'qw ":.?.— Montciovez is the capital of Cogquiila. It is situited on a small stream of .vfjcr in 26° 30' N latitude and 103° 3(y VV. longitude. I. is nh< ut one milt in !< .igthj on a course N. 70° E. by the main strcot. It hab two pubiic Ejuarrs, Rcven churches, a powder magazine, mills, king's hospit^ >, snd quar* ^eJ de! tropa. This is the principal military 'lop.ot ft-r the provinces of Co^rj-.nlla anu Texas. Its population may be estimated at 3.500 sou^s; This city being the stated residence of his excellency go- Vfinoi Cordcio, he has ornamented it with public walks, columns, and fountains, and made it one of the handsomest cities in the inter- nal provinces. Santa Rosa is about 38 miles to the north-west of Montelovez, is represented to be the most healthy situation in the province, and to have the best water end fruit. It is on the head waters of the river Millada. Its population is represented at 4,000 souls. Paras is situated on a small stream ; with its suburbs it is supposed to con- tain 7000 souls, and San Lorenzo, three miles to the north, five | hundred souls. This place may be termed the vineyard of Cog- quilla, the whole population pursuing no other occupation than the! cultivation of the grape. Its name denotes the Branches of tk\ Vine. At the Hacienda of San Lorenzo, where we halted, there I were fifteen larger stills, large cellars, and a greater number ofl casks than I ever saw in any brewery of the United States. Its gar-f dens were delightfully interspersed with figs, vines, apricots, and a| variety of fruits which are produced in the torrid zone ; fine sum| xner-houses, where were wine, refreshments, and couches to reposej on and where the singing of the birds was delightful. There were, likewise, mills and a fine water-fall. Thcpresidiij of Rio Grande is situated on that river, and is remarkable for nol thing but three or four handsome missions with which it is suij rounded, a powder magazine, quarters for the troops, and a few iroi field-pieces on miserable truck carriages. Population 2,500 soulil APPENDIX TO PART III. 99 ,vn every infov- lat of the same , the cast ol the we had seen in ■ .,,,,1 prcsfentea, ,, yery jici'^epa- ,fl wiUl hogs. is the capital of ,ne m«^ ^'^ ^* '^5^^*'^ two n«hlic K:\uaiT8, at lor the province* 5 estiinated at 3,500 his exceUency go- bUc walks, columns, s\ cities in the inter- kcst of Montelovez, in .. the province, and head waters of the 4,000 souls. Paras' The population of this province may be estimated at 70,000 souls, not more than 10,000 of whom are Spaniards. Trade^ Commerce^ and Manufacturf9.—'VK\i province receives all its merchandise from Mexico by land, and in return gives horses, mules, vines, gold, and silver. There is an annual fair held at Sal- telo, in New Leon, where there is an immense qunntity of merchan- dise disposed of, and where merchants of very large capitals reside. jlgrictilture. — They cultivate the vine principally with grain and corn sufficient for their own consumption, and to supply the greatest part of Texas. Moriginea. — The Appaches cover their north-west frontier. The Lee Pawnees are a nation who rove from the Rio Grande to some distance into the province of Texas. Their former residence was on the Rio Grande, near the sea shore. They are at present divided into three bands, of 300, 350, and 100 men each. They arc at war with the Tetaus and Appaches, and at peace with the Spani- ards. They have fair hair, and are generally handsome, armed with bows, arrows, and lances. They pursue the wild horses, of which they take numbers, and sell them to the Spaniards. Government and Zaws.— Military and ecclesiastical power is all that is known or acknowledged in this province ; but its admi- nistration was mild under their excellent govenior Cordero. The governor's civil salary is 4000 dollars per annum. Moralt and Manners.-^lt was evident, to the least discerning eye, that as we diverged from these parts which produced such vast quantities of the precious metals, the inhabitants became more in- U is supposed to con- V, north five ■ 'lustrious and there were fewer beggars. Thus the morals of the es ^ , , \ of CogB P®°P'® of Cogquilla were less corrupt than those of Biscay or New the vin y ^^^^^j,jB Leon, their neighbors. Military Force. — There are 400 dragoons maintained in this r occupation n he» of them imntary rorce. — 1 here are 4uu aragoons mamtamed m tnis ^ . . ,. ^j there! province, and stationed at Montelovez, San Ross^ Pres. Rio del ®'®^.!^ater^umber ol Norte, San Fernandez. * • A «it tes Itsgai^'l Religion, — Catholic, but mild. It is in the diocese of Durango. • * ricots, and al /fiWori/.— Cogquilla had not pushed its population as far as the ^' ' • fine sum-lRio Grande in the year 1 687, as at that lime La Salle established ^^^A -uea to reposelhimself at the entrance of that river, it being a wilderness; but *" . IMontelovcz was established some time before this era. Of its par- f U The4)residiiiPcular history I have no knowledge. ^^^' rkable for nol Geografihy. — The province of Texas lies bctAveen 27° 30' and ^* -^ hich it is sutls" N. latitude and 98° and 104° \V. longitude, bordered north by ^^ and a few irAouisiana, east by the territory of Orleans, west by Cogquilla and '® , -'^gsoo soulwew Mexico, and south by New San Andcr. Its greatest length Population *»^" ■ ;!■*' lir ijiilil 30 APPENDIX TO PART HI, m ': from north to louth may be $00 miles, and breadth from eaat to west 350. ulir and CUmate^^Ont of the moat delightful temperatures in the world) but, being a country covered with timber, the new emi- grants are generally sickly, which may justly be attributed to pu- trescent vegetation, which brings on intermittent and bilious attacks, and, in some instances, malignant fevers. The justice of these re- marks are proved by the observations of all the first settlers of our western frontiers, that places which, in the course of ten or fifteen years, become perfectly healthy, were, the first two or three years, quite the reverse, and generally cost them the loss of two or three members of their families. JMineat Mineraltf and fo9uU.-^Thti only one known and worked is a mine of lead. Eiver»,'-^Th& river St. Antonio takes its source about one league to the north-east of the c&pital of the province (St. Antonio) and is navigable for canoes to its source, affording excellent fish, fine mill seats, and water to eveiy partof the town. It is joined by the river Mariana from the west, which forms part of the line be- tween Cogquilla and Texas, and then discharges itself into the Rio Guadelupe about 50 miles fram the sea. At the town of St. An- tonio it is about twenty yards wide, and, in some places, twelve feet in depth. The river Guadelupe takes its source about 1 50 miles to the north-west of St. Antonio, where we crossed it : it was a beautiful stream, of at least sixty yards in width. Its waters are transparent and navigable for canoes. After receiving the wuters of the St. Antonio and St. Marco it discharges itself into the south- west end of the bay of St. Bernardo. At the crossing of this river there is a range for the horses of St. Antonio and . " guarde de cabailo," with an elegant site for a town. The river St. Marco takes its source about 100 miles north, j twenty west of St. Antonio, and at the crossing of the road is thirty yards in width ; a clear and navigable stream for canoes. By the road this river is only fourteen miles from the Guadelupe, into] which it discharges itself. The Red river takes its source in the province of Cogquilla inl 53° N. latitude and 104° SO' W. longitude, but bending to the east,! enters the province of Texas, and, after a winding course of abou| 600 miles, disembogues itself into the bay of St. Bernard, in the 29'| N. latitude. Where the i oad traverses it was at least 1 50 yard^ wide, and has a guard of dragoons stationed on its banks. Its water APPENDIX TO PART III. SI «re of 8 reddish cast, from whence it. probably derived its name. This stream is navigable for boats of three or four tons burden. The river Brassos takes its source In the province of Cogquilla in 34" N. latitude and 105** W. longitude, enters the province of Texas, and discharges itself into the gulf of Mexico ih 28" 40', after a course of 750 miles. It is the largest river in the province, and, where the road crosses, is 300 yards wide tnd navigable for large keels. From the appearance on its banks it must rise and fiUl 100 feot Its waters were red and turbid, its banks well timbered, and a rich proliBc soil. Here was kept the ortljr boat I recollect to have seen in the provinces. The river Trinity takes its source in 34® N. latitude and 99" W. longitude, and discharges itself into Galueston's bay in 39" 30* N. la- titude. By its meanders it is about 300 miles in length. Where the road crosses it is about 60 yards in width, with high, steep banks covered with timber and i rich luxuriant soil. The rivers Nachez and Angelina are small rivers, of about 30 yards in width, and after forming a junction, discharge themselves into the Trinity. The river Toyac is a small stream, which discharges itself into the gulf of Mexico, at the same bay with the Sabine, in about 29* SO' N. latitude and 97" W. longitude. The Sabine river, the fireamt limits between the Spanish domi- nions and the territories of the United States in that quarter, takes its source in about the 33" N. latitude, and enters the gulf of Mexi- co in 39" 50'. It may be 300 miles in length by its meam^^ers, and at the road about 50 yards in width. Here the Spaniards keep a guard and ferry boat. Lakes.-'Somc small ones near the head of the Guadelupe and some branches of Red river. lies north) I Timber ^ Plainsf and Soil. — This province is well timbered for j*^^ A-^^ ^y^jrly I ^^^ miles from the coast, but has some small prairies interspersed '^ es. '^y the I trough its timbered land ; but take it generally, it is one of the ^^"^ *L /igjijne, into! richest and most prolific and best watered countries in North ^"® I America. f Coeqwi^^* iol jlnimala. — Buffalo, deer, elk, wild hogs, and wild horses, the >vince ^^^ eaatillatter of which are in such numbers as to afTor J supplies for all the it ben I S ^^ abottlPavages who border on the province, the Spaniards, and vast droves '^ ^^ 29'lfor the other provinces. They are also sent into the United States, St. oe ^ ^ 50 yardiPotwithstanding the trade is contraband. '** u Its wattJtl They go in such large gangs that it is requisite to keep an ad- bnit*** • lanced guard of horsemen, in order to frighten them away; for I from e»rtto ,inperaturesm J the new emV- tribuied topu- bUious attacks, ice of these re- aettlera of our of ten or fifteen ,o or three years, a of two or three u»Qwn»»d worked source about one rxnc»(St.A»^°^»^) ,n. Itisjovnedby part of the line be- , itself into the Rio the town of St. An. places, twelve feet ^cea\>0tttl50mile» posted if. i^^*** dth. Itsvjatersare eceiving the waters itself into the south, crossing of this nver and - « g**'^^* ^' f I m ii;fi ■■ ■ : II W^'A V. 9 i la IK i 33 APPKNPlX TO PART III. thould they be suffered to come near your horses and mules which you drive with you, by their snorting, nei^hint?, kc. thoy would aiur.n them, and fVequeiUly the domestic animals would join them and go off, nutwiihaumding all the exertiotin ot* tiie dragoons lo pre- vent them. A gentleman told me he saw 700 beastH carried off at one time, not one of which waj ever recovered. They also in the night frequently carry off the droves of travellers' horses, and even come within a few miles of St. Antonio, and take off the horses in the vicinity. ■ The method pursued by the Spaniards in taking them is as follows : They take a few fleet horses and proceed into the country where the wild horses are numerous. They then build a large strong enclosure, with a door which enters a smaller enclosure : from the entrance of the large pen tbcy project wings out into the pralrio a great distance, and then set up bushes, 8cc. to induce the hoists, wlien pursued, to onter into these wings. After these pre- parations are made they keep a look out for a small drove, for, if they unfortunately should start too large a one, they either burst open the pen >r fill it up with dead bodies, and the others run over thorn and escape ; in which case the party are obliged to leave the place, as the stench arising from the putrid carcases would be insupporta- ble ; and, in addition to this, the pen would not receive others. Should they, however, succeed in driving in a few, say two or threa hundred, they select the handsomest and youngest, noose them, and I'ke ^'hem into the sitiall enclosure, then turn out the remainder, atier which, by starving, preventing them taking any repose, and continually keeping them in motion, they make them gentle by de- grees, and finally break them to submit to the saddle and bridle. For this business I presume there is nu nation in the world superior to the Spaniards of Texas. Pojinlation and Chief Toivns. — St, Antonio, the capital of the province, lies in 29° SO' N. latituda and 101" W. longitude, and is situated on the !iead waters of the river of that name and, perhaps, contains 2,000 souls, the most of whom reside in miserable mud- wall houses, covered wit!) thatched grass roofs. The town is laidj out on a very grand plan. To the cast of it, on the other side ol the river, is the station of the troops. About two, three, and four miles from St. Antonio are threi misbious, formerly Nourishing and prosperous. Those buildin for solit'-ity, accommodation, and even majesty, were surpassed few that I saw in New Spain. The resident priest treated us wii the greatest hospitality, and was respected and beloved by all wl ifivej an a I'e n (J th cept nter 'ses. Th yhicf APPENDIX Tr ^^Hr HI. es and mulea which n^i 6tc. they would lis would join them :!ie dragoons to pre- beast » carried oiT at . They also In the ra* horscH, and even ike off the horses in n taking them is as eed into the country ;y then build a large I smaller enclosure : ;t wings out into the ics, &c. to induce the ;s. After these pre- a small drove, for, if they either burst open others run over thctn ed to leave the place, would be insupporta- d not receive others. I few, say two or three gest, noose them, and _ . — » •■«! acs, and ™ out the remainder,!,. , -^^rtculture — The Amerimn tetLn, gentle by de.r'°PPf"»'ons and .„,,,i,i„„^ ,htTltV'''°'^""''y- but „„ sadd.e%nd bridle, fc *"S »i... .ha, apiH. ^Uioutllt^Z""''"' P™-"'' .l.eir „ in the world .uperior r'*'^»'>men, of . „e„ coun,™ "'"" '» K'vo success lo the „i„..be capu. of ,.i2::::/„«;{*e;:dra:r::t:"^^^ W. longitude, and \^%. J'''^ ^»W horses, and carry on a tv.T ^' . '^^ ^^^'^^^ ti'e .tnamJ;nd,perha4:^ --^;^ ^o.j::X:^J^^^^ Span,,., ,idc in miserable t««^I„ve,.6adl K ^"''''"''*' ^^^^^^^t: are a tail h , ^ """ ^''''''' ofs The town is ^ai« peopJc ia ^onthe other side of 2:^-'-- visited "^rf ,;tr 1" ^ "°^^ ^^ ^^^- e made less progress. They comolain , ^"'^^ «PP^"''s to ,,,, t- treatment of the SpSu ^II "' °' ^'^"' «"-^-n ccpt the Appaches, were fh« •' ^ extremely poor an,, untered in .^1 e_ '. ^^'^ ^'^^ '"ost indenenrl^nf r.„,=J^ °'^' ^"^' 33 knew him. He tnade a ' * ^ ^'•"".whohadforme.lyrrCtr'"'*'"*'''"^^'"'^' to the abori "•ent. under charge of the rnn"- f""'''''*" °f ^hose e.tabHsh <=»"'« of the nativTs '" hI T^' ' "»''«d him « What? ! thevrnnM "";"• "e replied <» Thar s» *^ "at had be- »^o formed :;; ""' """" "■'"»-<«« o^LMr"' '° '""■ "■« u iiaa not then more than ^..ffil- "^® °ne where h«i ""'»• It IS situated on a sm^iJI ., P' ""' '""tains i,ca,l, Tl-e population of Te,asT» "' "' "" """■■ 'oyac '^ "=P™cipa„, Spanish, c"„les I " ""■»«ed a, rooo/ n„„ 11 St. Antonio are rous. Those b"""'"luntered in Ik'-c"^"'. '"^'^ "'^ '"ost independrnf'T'r ''°°''' ^"^' .assed b 27 ^"^ ^P"""h territories "' "''^"^'^"^ ^'"''ans we en- i us wit _,. ' possess large droves of .. . 1 ner«» ai.* « . ises. "»ic3. 1 nev noococ- I-. ;sty, were surpasst- - .^^^ t priest treated us wit _ -o~«iuvcsot I 50 '^"" "'■''"'"'■'="■* " *- ^^ miiit'J our countrywomen, which they conceived to be much more '^*,-(.h relates to legant than their ancient costume. The lower class of the illf I A w^y •»* ed by the mis- uchtheludian* tccpt as to the .tier, where buf. any vrarwUhsa- iving by following ,re wandering d»- y other of the pro- iffalo hunts to cer- , cultivate so many ,pirit of hunune or prevalent, and has ^ precepts, a gene- rendered St. Ante «ct with in the pre at the time 1 canve f the troopa which! ft.om St. Ander and The dispo- It can 1 , scarcely dUtingmshl rived from custom, es it cannot be expec« Let, as I possessed no %t.fevvobserH U" S6 APPENDIX TO PART III. men are generally dressed in broad brimmed hats, short coats, large waistcoats, and small clothes always open at the knees (owing, as I supose, to the greater freedom it gives to the limbs on horseback), a kind of leather boot or wrapper, bound round the leg (somewhat in the manner of our frontier-men's leg- gings), and gartered on. The boot is of a soft, pliable leather, but not colored. In the eastern provinces the dragoons wear, over this wrapper or boot, a sort of jack-boot made of sole-leather, to which are fastened the spurs, by a rivet, the gafis of which are sometimes near an inch in fength ; but the spurs of the gentlemen and officers altheu(;'h clumsy to our ideas, are frequently ornamented with raised silver work on the shoulders, and the strap embroidered with silver and gold thread. They are always ready to mount their horses, on which the inhabitants of the internal provinces spend nearly half the day. This description will apply generally to the dress of all tlie men of the provinces for the lower class ; but in their cities, amongt the more fashionable, they dress after the European or United States modes, with not more variation than we see in our cities from one six months to another. Both men and women have remarkably fine hair, and pride themselves in the display of it. Their amusements are music, singing, dancing, and gambling. I'he latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibition is not much attended to. The dance of is danced by one man and two women, who beat time to the music, which is soft and toluptuous, but sometimes changing to a lively, I gay air. The dancers exhibit the motions of the soul, by gestures of the body, snapping the fingers, and sometimes meeting in a stretched embrace. The fandango is danced to various figures and numbers. The minuet is still danced by the superior class only. Tliel music made use of is the guitar, violin, and singers, who, in the first! described dance, accompany the music with their hands and voices,| having always some words adapted to the music. Their games are cards, billiards, horse racing, and cock fight-j ing, the first and last of which are carried to the most extravaganij lengths, losing ;uid winning ir'.mense sums. The present commanJ dant general is very severe with his officers in these respects, freltaker quently sending them to some frontier post, in confinement foldissiil montliS* for no other fault than having lost large sums at play. j^l^i'uti| every town of consequence is a public walk, where the ladies anlthat gentlemen meet and sing songs, which are always on the subject Jcom-sl love or the social board The females have fine voices, and sinff APPENDIX TO PART III. 37 in French, Italian^ and Spanish, the >vhole company joining in the chorus. In their houses the ladies {>!ay the guitar, and generally accom- pany it with their voices. They either sit down on the carpet cross legged, or loll on a sofa. To sit upright in a chair appeared to put them to great incor venience, and, although the better class would sometimes do it on our first introduction, they soon took the liberty of following their old habits. In their eating and drinking they are remarkably temperate. Early in the morning you receive a dish of chocolate and a cake, at twelve you dine pn several dishes of meat) fowls, and fish, after which you have a variety of confections, and, indeed, an elegant desert ; then drink a few glasses of wine, sing a few songs, and retire to take the aieata^ or afternoon's nap, which is taken by rich and poor. About two o'clock the windows and doors are all closed, the streets deserted, and the stillness of midnight reigns throughout. About four o'clock they rise, wash and dress, and prepare for the dissipation of the night. About eleven o'clock some refreshments are offered, but few take any, except a little wine and water and candied sugar. " The government has multiplied the difRculties of Europeans intermarrying with the Creoles or Metifs to such a degree that it is difficult for such a marriage to take place. An ufTiccr, wishing to marry a lady (not from Europe') is obliged to acquire certificates of the purity of her descent .200 years back, and transmit it to the court, when the licence will be returned ; but should she be the daughter of a man of the rank of captain, or upwards, this nicety vanishes, as rank purifies the blood of the descendants. The general subjects of conversation among the men are wo- men, money, and horses, which appear to be the only objects, in their estimation, worthy of consideration, unitirg the female sex with their money and their beasts, and, from having treated them too much after the manner ot the latter, they have eradicated from their breasts every sentiment of virtue or ambition, either to pursue and cock fig^4 '^^ acquirements which would make them amiable companions, ^* _t oxtravaganl instructive mothers, or respectable members of socleiv. Their sent comma'*! whole souls, with a few exceptions, like the Turkish ladies, being i! respects, fieiteken up in music, dress, and the little blandishments of voluptuous nfinement foldissipation. Finding that the men only regard them as ol)jccts of ^ at nlav- Algratification to the sensual passions, they have lost every idea of ° *u« ladies aiithat feast of reason and flow of soul, which arise fiom the inter- , M;V\eve '■nc •"" ■ , ' *\^P cubiectlcourse ot two refined and virtuous mmds. always on the suuj j e fine voices, and mH ,, short coats, at the knees gives to the wrapper, bound jtier-men's leg- able leather, but ,s wear, over this eather, to w-luch •h are sometimes imen and officers rented with raised idered with silver ,,t theiv horses, on end nearly half the he dress of all the their cities, amongt ,vopean or United .einourciuesfrom fine haiv, and pride sements are rnusic, , strictly pwhibued, he dance of "^ t time to the music, hanging to a Uvdy, the soul, by gestures] .etimesmeetinginai to various figures anii kor The ,„. class only, ngers, who, in the first heir hands and voices,] SIC. m )St, Si 38 APPENDIX TO PART III. ,^ ' i . m '^' The beggars of the city of Mexico are estimated at 60,000 8ou?s: what must be the number through the whole kingdom? and what reason can it be owing to that, in a country superior to any in the world for riohes in gold and silver, producing all the neces' aariups of life and most of its luxuries, that there should be such a vast proportion of the inhabitants in want of bread or clothing. It can only be accounted for by the tyranny of the government aiid the luxuries of the rich. The government striving, by all the restrictions possible to be invented, without absolutely driving the people to desperation to keep Spanish America dependent on Eu- rope. Trade, Commerce^ Manufactures, and Revenue. — The trade and commerce of New Spain is carried on with Europe and the United States by the port of Vera Cruz solely, and the East Indies and South America generally by Acapulco, and, even at these ports, under such restriction, as to productions, manufactures, and time, as to render it of little consequence to the general prosperity of the country. Were all the numerous bays and harbors of the gulfs of Mexico and California opened to the trade of the world, and a gene- ral licence given to the cultivation of all the productions which the country is capable of, with freedom of exportation and importation, with proper duties on foreign goods, the country would immediately become rich and powerful, a proper stimulus would be held out to the poor to labor, when certain of finding a quick and ready sale for the productions of their plantations or manufactories. The country abounds in iron ore, yet all the iron and steel, and articles of manu- factures, are obliged to be brought from Europe, the manufactur- ing or working of iron being strictly prohibited : this occasions the necessary articles of husbandry, arms, and tools to be enormously high and is a great check to agriculture, improvements in manu- factures, and military skill. The works of the Mexicans, in gold, silver, and painting, shew them naturally to have a genius which, with cultivation and improvement, might rival the greatest masters of either ancient or modern times. Their dispositions and habits are peculiarly calculated for sedentary employments, and I have no doul)t, if proper establishments were made, they would soon rival, if not surpass, the most extensive woollen, cotton, or silk manufac- 1 tures of Europe, their climate being proper to raise the finest cotton in the world and their sheep possessing all the fineness of wool for which they are so celebrated in Spain. These circumstances, togc- thtr with the immense qiiar.tiiies of the raw materials which theyj have on liand, wool selling for a mere trifle, and in fact, they scarce- APPENDIX TO PART III. 39 J at 60,000 e kingdom^ iperior to any all the neces- aid be such a 1 or clothing, e government ing, by aU the ely driving the ,endent on K-u- ^The trade and 5 and the United East Indies and ^ at these ports, itures, and time, prosperity of the ,raofthegulfeof ,vorld,andagene. actions which the n and importation, .vould immediately uld be held out to , and ready sale for .rics. The country d articles of manu- >e, the manufactur- this occasions the to be enormously .vements in wanu- Mexicans, in goldv bve a genius v^hich, L greatest tna^tei^ spositions and habits Vents, and I have no ey would soon rival, on, or silktnanufac- •aise the finest cotton fineness of wool foe circumstances, togc- Latcrials which they Lin fact, they scarce ]y take the half frotn the 4eece of the sheep, for the coane manu- facturcs of the country and to make beds. I cannot pfesume to state the revenues of the country from of- ficial documents, but the following statements I have had from so respectable a source, and they are so confirmed by my own observa- tions, that I think much reliance may be placed on their correctness. The mint coins, per annum, at least 50,000,000 dollars in silver and 14,000,000 dollars in gold, the one-fifth of which (the duty) is c'lual to 12,800,000. The duties on>foreign goods and the amount paid by the purchasers of monopolies, may be estimated at 4,000,000 dollars, which, vvlih the duty on gold and silver, makes the annual revenue 16,800,000. The civil list of the khigdom is 580,000, the military 7,189,200 : these together amount to 7,760,200, which de- ducted from the gross revenue of 16,700,000, leaves a clear revenue for the king (from his Mexican dominions) of 9,030,800. The money paid for the support of the clergy is not included in this es- timate, as they receive their revenue through its own proper chan- nel. The best paid officers under the government cost the king no- thing in a direct line, yet the oppressive manner in which they pay themselves and impoverish the people, would render it better po- licy to abolish their impositions and pay them out of the pubL'c trea- sury by a direct salary. * ,1 ?■■."; 1 I !' i' , 1 IS' ill' I 1': i ii; o 00 oc o o S.2J 2 3 5 g o o O 00 o o 00 o Canalty. o • 8 ArtiUtry. o o S S o o o o O O o Infantry, fT ^p ^ i' *1 t) £1. 4 M ^^ 1 M ^ "fi P 00 tJ c» "-> 2 "^ »i o o OO o o oo 1 00 1 o O Oi oo o o o o oo rg a. tr ^ fr r, - *3 ■^ a. ET " >■*' a. ET g- e "^ 5. - C) : I never saw a irps of troops exercising as dragoons, but frequently marching by I. i i r, r,, . i! f: 44 APPENDIX TO PAUT III. 15 I m f '■■■ d I ' ;!i? i: >} If 4 #4 J i platoons, sections See. in garrison, where they serve as infantry, with their carabines. In these manoeuvres they were very deficient. On i^ mnrch a detachn. *.nt of cavalry generally encamp in a circle. They relieve their guards at night, and as ^oon as they hult the ncv gii»nl i» formed on foot with their carabines, and then marched before the commandant's tent, where the commanding oflicer of the guard in- vokes the holy virgin three times : the commanding officer repll£^» *' It is well." They titen retire and mount their horses, and are told off, some to act as " guard of the horses," as cavalry, others as guard of the camp, as infantry. The old guards are then paraded Qnd relieved, and the new sentinels take post. Their sentinels arc singing half their time, and it is no uncommon thing for them to quit their post to come to the fire, go for water, 8cc. in fact, alter the officer is in bed, frequently the whole'guard comes in, yet I never knew any man punished for those breaches of military duly. Their mode of attack is by squadrons, on the different Hanks of their ene- mies, but without regularity or concert, shouting, hallooing, and fir- ing their carabines, after which, if they think themselves equal to the enemy, they charge with a pistol and then a lunce. From my observation on their discipline I have no hesitation in declaring thut I would not be afraid to march over a plain, with 500 infantry and a ]proportionate allowance of horse-artillery of the United States army* ill the presence of 5000 of these dragoons } yet I do not presume to ^ay that an army with that inferiority of numbers would do to oppose Ijhem, for they would cut off your supplies, and harrass your march and camp, night and day, to such a degree as to oblige yuu in the end | to surrender to them without ever having come to action. If, how* ever, the event depended on one single engagement, it would even- tuate with glory to the American arms. The conclusion must not! be drawn that I consider they are deficient in physical firmness morel than other nations, for we see the savages, 500 of whom on a plaini fly before fifty bayonets, on other occasions brave danger and deathi in its most horrid shapes with an undaunted fortitude never surJ passed by the roost disciplined and hardy veterans. It ai-ises solclyl at tbi from the want of discipline and confidence in each other, as is always! vice the case with undisciplined corps, unless stimulated by the godlikJgradJ sentiment of love of country, of which these poor fellows knovlthe ai little. The travelling food of the dragoons in New Mexico consist^ of a very excellent species of wheat biscuit and shaved meat, wellof bai dried, with a vast quantity of red pepper, of which they make bouimd is illi and then pour it on their broken biscuit, when it becomes so|(]eceai and excellent eating. ,. ...,,,,, APPENDIX TO PART III. 45 ieftactvt. On , circle. They llie ucv g"»"^ ,hei\ before ihc f the B«»*"^ ""^' . ofTiccv vep\t«>i' .vaWy, oU^evs a» ve then paraded heir aeiUinels avu . in fv^ct, alter the ;cs in, yet 1 "^J^.^ .UnUsofthetrene- . haUooing^a^dfii" hemselvcs equal to a lance. From ray .^„ in declaring th^t _y, 500 infantry and a United States army. 1 do i^ot presume to , xvould do to oppose harras. your march „,UgeyuuintUcendl [e to action. If, how ,„,ent,it>vouldeven. conclusion must not FHither aouth they uae large quantities of [Mrched corn«Wieal and sui;ar (as practised by our hunters) each d ragoon having a (tmtll bag. In short, they live, when on command, on an allowance which our troops would conceive little better than slarvimg, never, except at night, attempting to eat any thing like a meaii but bite a piece of bincuit, or drink some parched meal and sugor with watei' during the day. From the physical, as well as moral properties of the inhabit* ents of New Spain, I do believe they are capable of being made the best troops in the world, possessing sobriety, enterprise, jpeat phy- sical force, docility, and a conception equally quick and proet rating. The mode of promotion in the internal provinces is singular, but probably productive of good effects. Should a vacancy of first lieutenant oifer in a company, the captain commanding nominates, with the senior second lieutenant (who by seniority would fill the vacancy) two other lieutenants to the general, giving his comments on all three. The general selects two for a nomination to the courts from whom is selected the fortunate candidate, whose commission is made out and forwarded ; and, as the letters of nomination arc always kept a secret, it is impossible for the young officers to say who is to blame should they be disappointed, and the fortunate one is in a direct way to thank the king only for the ultimate decision, and thus with superior grades to the colonel. The king of Spain's ordinances for the government of his army are generally founded on justice and a high sense of honor. I could not get a set from any of the officers to take it to my quarters, con- sequently my observations on them were extremely cursory. They provide that no old soldiev shall ever be discharged the service, unless for infamous crimes. When a man has served with reputa- tion for 12 years and continues, his pay is augmented ; 20 years, he my steal ^ pljdnh receives another augmentation ; 27 years, he receives the brevet ^ ^' ° . «ti death! rank and pay of an ensign, and 32, a lieutenant, &c. Those circum- |:ave dang ^^ ■ j^jj,jj,gg j^j^ j^ great stimulant, although not one in a thousand aiTive fortitu solclyl at the third period, when they are permitted to retire from the ser- Irans. ^^ alvrayl vice with mil pay and emoluments. All sons of captains, or of Jach ° ' rrodliwJ grades superior) are entitled to enter the king's schools as cadets, at /"^noor fellovrs UnoJthe age of twelve years. '*® M- ico consist! The prope* I" of any oiBcer or soldier, who is killed on the field kNew « ^_-t, welof battle or dies of his w unds, is not liable to be taken for debt, J shaved meai, "»"■ • h maVie bowand is secured, as well as the king's pension, to the relatives of the l^hlnM bLomes soLceascd. j 46 APPLNDIa to part III. H r ili I:'-'- i Courts martial, for the trial of a commissioned officer, must be formed of creneral officers ; but this clause subjects the officers of the proviin > to a great species of tyramiy, for the commandiiH;, jjc- iieral has taken upon himself to punish for all riTc;nces not capital, consequently accorcUnfj to his own judgment sk] ||>rejudlce8, from which there is only an appeal to the king, and difficult is it indeed for the complaints of a subaltern to reach his majesty through the numerous crowd of sycophants who surround him, one half of whom are proliably in league with his oppressor : it likewise deprives an officer of the most sacred of all rights, the being tried by his peers ; for, should he be sent to Mexico or Europe fur trial, it in possible he cannot take half the testimony which is' necessary ta complete his justification. There is another principle defined by the ordinances, which has often t)ccn the cause of disputes in the service of the United States: — viz. The commandant of a post (in the Spanish scrvioe), if barely a captain, receives no orders from a general, should one arrive at his post, unless that general should be superior in authority to the person who posted him, ibr, says the ordinance, he is respon- sible to the king alone for his post. That principle, according to my ideas, is very injurious to any country which, adopts it ; for ex- am':it.'t ^ve will say that a post of great importance, containing im- 2iK:i)S«' nnlitary stores, is likely to fall into the hands of the enemy ; Vih iMiiAS superior to the commandant receives the information, and rcpairtt to the post and orders him immediately to evacuate it. The coHinmndant, feeling himself only responsible to the authority who placed him in that position, refuses to obey, and the magazines and place are lost ! ! ! The principle is also subversive of the very root of military subordination and discipline, where an inferior should in all caaea obey a superior, who only should be responsible for the eifect arising from the execution of his orders. It will readily be believed that, in my thus advocating imfiHcit obedience to the orders of a superior, that I Jo not suppose the Idghest imfirobabilitiea or itnfioaaibiliiiea, si ch as an order to turn your arms against the oonati- fitted authority of your country., or to be the ensign of his tyranny or *hefiander of his vices : those are cases where -a man's reason must alone direct him, and are not, nor cannot be subject to any human j rule whatever. Religion. -^Its forms is a subject with which I am very imper- fectly acquainted, but having made some enquiries and observations! on the religion of the country, I will freely communicate themJ APPENDIX TO PART IH. 47 )«iceT, wusl be ^ the oncers ot owroan«liov, »;«■ nces not capital, ,,rej«d".ce»' from iesiy through Ibe |,„eha\fof^tho"^ wise i\eprive» an rieAbyhispeewv .y ta compile hiH rinanccs,>vh\chha» ice of the Umted ,e SpanUh servroe), general, should one fupenorin«*uthorUy lnance,heisrespon. ,inciple.accovdvnsto ,h adopts it ; for «^- ^ance, containing im; hands of the enemy . theinfovmation,aml to evacuate it. ^ "« to the authority Nvho „dthe magawnesand rsive of the very root .re an inferior shoud be responsible for the ;,lt\vitt readily be Tedience to the order. rHestmrobal>il^t^esov rtns against the oo««^r. „sisnofhis.vr«-V°, '.e a man's reason must subject to any human I Lch lam very impe^ Lries and observations % communicate them, tcarrtil at the same time that f lay myself open to the severe criti- cisms of persons who have, in any »l(;(;i'«!c, applied themselves to tlie study of theology or the ritual of the catholic i luirch. The kingdom of New Spain, is divided iiitu four arciilnshop- ricks, viz: Mexico, Guadalaxara, Durango, and St. Louis Polosi ; •iider them again are the sub-bishopricks^ Deacons, Curates, Etc. each of whom are subject and accountable to their immediate chief for the districts committed to their charge, and the whole is again subject to the ordinances of the high court of inquisition held at the rapital of Mexico ; from whence is fulnii' the edicts of their censure against the heresies, and imj ics of the mo- dem philosophy, both as to politics and I am credibly informed, that the influence of that trib ater in his Ca- tholic majesty's Mexican dominions, thin tii any >^atholic countrjr in Europe, or perhaps in the world. A few years since, they con- demned a man to the flames, for asserting and maintaining some doctrine which they deemed heretical ; and a Jew who was impru- dent enough to take the image of Christ on the cross, and put it under the sill of his dnor, saying privately he would " make the dogs walk over their God." 'I'hey likewise examine and condemn to the flames all books of a modem sentiment, either as to religion or politics, and excommunicate any one in whose hands they may be found. I recollect Uj have seen a decree of theirs published in the Mexican Gazettes, condemning a number of books, " as here- " tical and contrary to the sacred principles of the holy Catholic " church, and the peace and durability of the government of his " Chatholic majesty." Amongst which^were mentioned " Helve- tius" on man, J. J. Rousseau's works, Voltaire's, Mirabeau's and a number of others of that description, and even at so great a dis- tance as Chihuahua; an officer dared not take " Pope's Essay on Man," to his quarters, but used to come to mine to read it. The salaries of the arch-bishops are suncrior to any officers in the kingdom. The bishops of Mexico, being estimated at 2 150,000 per annum, when the vice roy's is g80,000, and £50,000 allowed for his table, falling short of the bishop g20,000. Those incomes are raised entirely from the people who pay I no tax to the king, but give one tenth of their yearly income to the clergy; besides the fees of confessions, bulls, burials, baptisms, marriages, and a thousand impositions, which the corruptions oi Ipriestscraft has introduced, and has been kept up by their supersti- Ition snd ignorance. Notwithstanding all this, the inferior clergy, pho i.o all the slavery of the office, are liberal and wc^I informed ■\ II s^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) e^^ fer ^- 4^ ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 Jl 125 U4 Iii2 |22 1^ 12.0 Its KS U I 4" ^:^* ■> Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO ( 71 &) •72-4503 m ;V \\ ^ i\ ■-^ ) M '^^>^ V ^ / 4t AVPEvtmK TO ¥jamnh igAHermnent Thef,«i« geDenill!r;oreiior digBitie* oS ihft cbureli, tm Hm aovKd their iimkI*^ such a degree^ dMktvI «»«fl«fidmiln:,Mi«rdfig^ tM ibey will Jk«i (he vea whenever the sUiiidatd of iad^pendenc«>ifindMid in 'tilwteownury. ... ., 'i..,a.>ti(^ Pp/» .j«ettw } for the hMtMy ef #l^fiati«r».«id^«U,fe8iM^< hwmjpfoiHid'met mutmim/miHoi p«o|M« aei^cMed ifstn WHtth«r hfi/w^stefoenM 4icci>ikiffl|i)ieig i^i power, 8tMn|^„«ii4 independeltce^ wtfl KCh nMiin^^hmfiiiiitbieiit iio th«, mothttrt ^Wty it«e]|Wio|f i«i«en f)^m dM.in\»t«») PMite> fewrti «nd ulhe- ^iUtjiiOf.ithe infuMir .^ huniaoi :iQM)tudMM»l *< lirgcribadyjiCiC ithit aofii^jr:?»i>U*.ntmui|j nolon^tl*- aMbjfBitit^ntotheP; brandy #« the. i»> meMift4iitano»of 1000 leegticpi? AjM^mll'thef f,,-;■, : JThe tnro^ttreatmpksiOl/EaftlMbitfnd Sp«iieh/AalMica^:iK kithubt «a£ jqrM. , > Stghnd gam m fthe Ji b etty ioiptirme ihef^etatrit tdmtf^ftmm jmlgiiwnti Hith neepci^titft'ttiBidA^ ediicaiiiaa* iaAedlni|n«»i>ilewning»i «riMeitfli|^iid^ a rapidi^mhaaMratih. theeiunle>of)She «!cfe^-pflMl:«li.tlw fllMi.at)- tit mptlatinfringe this jip^tsMhiqh.lMiihad.biibeitoeaj^^ tint ehi^^biebi naciare and> iho UxaliiK.jeiidiMtiftaada^fftKe tis a-raghit: toutlttt^dy and<|»)«tw tO! defcml.^ Hadtftreat^BciMiii jrieldcd to the itorm with. g WX ?e . tiim|<^digni^rfi Aie3nMin||tf llKre,ahaircdiaur gti|titiia^,tdi|«wp»x^raiwdicca»atttb iflebtjoaaunther iure»i|.J6h the edatrarj^ h]r!« |en9'#abr«rd«aUe«DBfltctr Jthetiaurdeif of' thoiMndi I ofioav. clti2cn%'«h«!!dc«tniction«»f the comitryt, the pcofenatioa ef our ahm;!^ and tMa iiMation of evcvyi rigbti^ divine: and hiin(.«iir she implantedtn the hpeaaK of tlie AaieHcaiv^ian:antlpath3i,. appnnchf ii|g neaity to< hortorif o desire 4^ reveiige< Idmost heredittirft and I deotroyed the bonds of broiheriiood, which might faasre subsisted I APPJBNDIX TO PART III. 49 t„»iwiWdthott \i*. i i. )•■'■' i «tid,%be»»* vrnnj^ might hweMbiirtW betiiiiithe twocovntries, which will tak« agesof jqit conduet.from her to the United States pa eradicate. Spdn punued a diferent line bf conduct towards her Mexican dominions} which were settled bjr Europeans sixtjr jrears previous ttf anf part (^ the United Statesi and might be termed a conquered kingdom* rather than the settle- ment of a savagecoumry. Thiscountiy she has therefore bound up in all the ligatures of restiictionsy monopolies^ prohibitions, se- clusions, and superstition ; and ha| so carefidly secluded all light from bursting in on their ignorance, that they haVie vegetated like the acorn in the forest, until the towering branches hav« broke through the darkness of the wild which surrounded them, artd let in the light of heaven. The approtimation of the United States, with the gigantic strides of French aqabition, have began to rouse up their dormant qualities, and to call ipto action the powers of their minds, on the subject of their political situation. An instance of their disposition for independence/ has been ex- hibited in their feeble attempts at a revolution on the Uth Januar^^ 1634, under the vice royalty of Don Diego Carrello Galyes. The insurrection on the 8th of June 1693 ; and more i^ecently in 1797, under the count de Galves, when they prochdmed him king of Mexico in the streets of the capital ; and 130,000 souls were heard proclaiming, " Long live Galves, king of Mexico." It was then only for Aim to have wilCditf and the kingdom of Mexico was lost to Charles the 4th for ever. But prcforing his loyalty to his ambi- tion, he rode out attended by his guards to the mob, with sword in hand, crying out " Long live his Catholic majesty Charles the 4th,' ' and threatening to put to instant death with his own hand, any person who refused immediately to retire to their houses. This dispersed the people. In another quarter of the kingdom, an immense number had also collected and proclaimed him king. He sent 10,00p men against them, dispersed them, and had four beheaded. Those firm measures saved the country at that period, and for which he receiv- ed the greatest honors from the court of Spun ; but was poisoned a short time after, fulfilling the maxim, " that it is dangerous to serve a jealous tyrant ;" for they always conceive that the same power who still'd the ocean's rage, can by his will raise the storm into all the majesty of overwhelming fury. Thus by taking his life it relieved them from the dread of bis influence with the Mexi- cans. England would naturally have been the power they would have [looked up to, in order to form an alliance to secure their indepett- |dence ; but the insatiable avarice and hauteur exhibited by the 22 mil t'!' i I'll I " " it I' iiiii m t 50 Amm^ TO PAKit in. EogUth In their Utedmcentt M Li Plate« Whh the diig^ti)6;#iii^r •rniih hutttrnedthdrvlewiffonithitnitytf.' ■'■'j < Theff theri(/^Wltve tumtd tknrtyniwk^/^ the UrUted Skaieti at brathren of the iltne kUty^ in their Ticlnitjrf and >ho has within her pow^r h.npie redouitiii ttf krtni, iinmuniiion) and even meh to atsist in securbig their indep(6ndenide, ar.d vrbb in that event seot^res tb herself the almost exclusive trade of the ricihest country in the vrorld for centurieS) and to be her carders as long as (he two nations exist ; iilr Mexico, lilte China, will never become a nation of mari- ners, tKStViiceive the ships of all the world into her ports, arnd give her bullion in exchange for the productions of their different cooBtiies,— when, wliat would not be the advantages the United State* would reap^from the event! Our numerous vessels would fill eVerf port, and from Aur vicinity enable us to carry ofif at least nine-ienths oi her cotnmefce : e^en on the coast of the Pacific no European nation could vie with us :— also, there would-be a brisk failtod tride carried on with the S. P. via Red river, and having Vfiree entrance into all their ports, we would become their factors, agents, ' guardiajis, and, in short, tutelar genius,' as she ftars, but hates Ffahce and all French n en and measures. It therefore re- mains fbr the government of the United States to decide, whether, if Bonaparte should seize 6n the crown of Spain, they would hold <>tit a helping hand, to emancipate another portion of the western hemisphere from the bonds of European tyranny and oppression, or % a differtint policy, suiter 6,000,000 of people to become-, in the hands of French intrigue, enterprise and tactics, a scourge on our south-western boundaries, which would oblige us to keep a large and respectable military force, and continual! us liable to a war •on the weakest and most vulnerable part of Ov ..ontiers. Twenty thousand auxiliaries from the United Stites, under good officers, joinQd to the indefie-rdntt of the country, are at any ^me'sufficient to create and effect the revolution. These troops can be rfised and officered in the United States, but paid and sup* plied at the expense of Me>'ico. It would be requisite that, not only the general commanding, but that every officer, down to thej youngest endgn, should be impressed with the riecesiBity of support-l ing a strict discipUne, to prevent marauding, which should, in some! instances, be punished with deaths in order to evince to the citizens] that you come as their friends and protectors, not as their plunderer and tyrants t-Molso, ^ most sacred regard should be paid not td injure the institutions of their religion ; thereby shewing them vJ hml a proper respect to all things in any way connected with th ^afrit^c 1 J jd ev«tt «B«* *® ; country in t^« fhe two naUttns » nation of «n«ri. f portB, «rt»d 8^^« f their different agee the United us vessels would carry off at least t of the Pacific no 5 would be a brisk river, and having come their factors, ,; as she f^ars, but 5 It therefore re- io decide, whether, In, they would hold ftion of the western iy and oppression, ov i to become, in the ;8, a scourge on our ns to keep a large „» liable to a war ontiers. [nited Stites, under B country, are at any luUon. These troops tea, but paid and sup- exquisite that, not ,^er, down to thd riecesBitJ of support, ^hich should, in some evince to the citixenj not as their plundere«( should be ptodnotto feby shewing themw ray connected with tb APPENDIX TO PART IK. SI wonU^I^Qf the Oeity^al the sa«M> time vd^^p^nnltted every fkum to adore' hi»^ agreeably to the dictates of his own judgment. The details requisite for the equipment, organization, fcc. of the corps, so as to be adapted to th^ locality of ^e country and the nature of the service, couldbe easily formed, )>|it would be imper- tinent here. ' , Should an army of Amerleana.ever march into 'the country, and be g jlded and governed by these maxims, they will only have (o march from province to province in triumph, and be h41ed by the united voices of grateful milliohi'lii their deliverers and sMdours, whilst our national cliaracter would be resounded to the moat d«tant nations of the I arth. Z. M. PiKK, Capt. 1st U.*S. regt. infantry. Wanhinffton, l'2th J/iril, 1808. 4 , "frt? : fe*} \«jbi«« .( 'y^ m fl ■•II IS PI m C No. 9.1 I'fAt- ■ EXPLANATORY fABLC or NAMES OF PLACES, PERSONS, AND THINGS MADB U8S or IN THIS VOLUME. .y<-/ • ■ . - - ENGLISH. FRENCH. INDIAN, NATUI^ Meadow.^ Prairie, Bnffiile river. Riviere au^uf. 8ih river. ^^ Riviere au Sel. Oahahah. River of Mimn. Riviere de Moyeil. lows river. Riviere de Ayoua Stony, or Rock river. Riviere des Rochera. j Turkey river. Riviere as Diadon. t Dog's tnea4ow. Prairie des Chiens. Ouisceusing. Ravtn river. Riviere die Corheau. Yellow river. Riviere Janne. R«il river. Riviere aux Racines. River of EmbarruancBti Riviere d'Emharras. ' Ckft Water river. Ririere I'Eau Chir. ' River of die Prairie of Ct)«. Riviere de b Prairie de Crosse. Ch^way river. Riviere Sauteauz. OnchipcwaSippi The Moontaia which loaks in L* Montaigne qui trempe the Water. dans I'Eau. River of do. Riviere de dio. Sandy P»int. Point de 8abk> 1 ■ ■■''■ The Bant. Lt Orange. 0" Caaaoo River. BiriereaaCanon. *.i,''' River St. Petera. »' Falls of St Anthony. Shute de St. Antoine. . f .'. Rum river. FrrMe VEm de Vie. " > >* * Leaf river. Riviere auz Feuilles. 1 Sauk river. Riviere aux Saukes. Big Falls. Grand rapid. I .ower Red Cedar lake. Le Bas Lac da Cedre Rouge. Rm^ bland. Isle de Corbean. Wt^'r'^ Riviev* an Pin. % Lac Sang Sue. APPENDIX TO PART III. 53 ,.r''''W. rHlNC>» INDIAN. OahalM^* OuKouunS' de OodiipewaSipr' ENGLISH. Pike river. Bottofn of the hke. SMftn tirer. iMw'n PtidHliHM#. Upper Red Cedar lake. Redhkc Orecnbi^. St. Igmtiiw. Oak Point. FRENCH. INDIAN. Lk de S«bk. Riviere dn Brodiet. food da Lac ^ RiiHere a Cigoe. Petite (thute. ^Hukegantw. Xi* HmI Lac da Cedrc RMgc. LAcRoagc. Laiayo Verde. St. IgMce. Viuatan Chene. ' Meno CocUen. The Turn. Idaqd of the Tom. Boriit Idand. PotaMraciMniea iahuid. Uttk Htrdi^t. Porto£ the Dead. Vermillion idaod. , Red,riTer. Stinkuig rapid, ^^oif rtver. ffilkiiik^i^ the dead. ■ ■ t ; ' _ . , Muddy lake. siu-UuHKi; La Detour. Isle dtt Detour. Me Brule. MedeaP^tf. F4tit Detroit. Port des Morti*i t ., .IpIe,ya^iUon» Riviere Rouge. . Puant Rapid. . Riviere des ixnibil LacVasenx. "fpail Jui) -km j ., ; -' •' [ 'W V }ji;rat)'' ' :'.u> (,i ,/iymH'\u .■ ' i •-. • , :> :j7 ,:. ; . . -il^'Wi SOwl t";^! ' : . ..■ (U'Vt'! ?/r .,i' . [;: .■':vri-^l»:3'«m-'«i*i*{ .iWi 'f-t'iWi {»(>!! 'ilfK-i'/frr i .' :- oJ ^r-Tiv/ i t: .1 • •-'> jici"".-!. itj;ilt n .' bm-jvim CKAuahuOf 2QthJ!^ilfil907 »i *^f t.:rN«¥«lv di|pheral dftlMsej provinces.. :r..^^ O-; ., .. '; ,;■.:.-■.■.-,• > ^ . ;0 ,!;. . J Should the; p61itka«f oar country mak^it necessary to aog- xlaLent.tbe.army pioevbuvitO' my arrival, I hopti the general uHltap' jtl^c of mymotir><^n the new< corps.! &lKral4 the line.of demarcation be amicably adjusted between thcl APPENDIX TO PAUt III. Sf rcc» we ««»«»e officer atwred ceUencyde«f«d bytbe in«>»^ '^»- from wViento I ough dobiow Qf I whepcc 1 cpuW lasted, or until I o^m ibe paciftc insuuciwnaoi^ny ter withabodyot wply vrith the de- eofwypafV^*''* it mostVWP*^'^** aneWOrtofSpan. overnor AUencaslcv .tnecUately march to ewnttnyseUtohw , for further orders, ught to expect, that t\en commiwication, ,pviBonera«f var. the following day, iw^ewie,lamin. ^t-^tieral of tl^^^ itnece»«yti|««e Unltei^Stattt and Spain, I hope to obtain the appointment of one of At ebmmissioncra, at I make bold to assert that, with respect to tin arrangements -necessary, and a knowledge of the country through which the line must pass, I am better instructed than any other officer of my age in our senrlee ; and, If joined to a colleague of profound astronomical knowledge, we oould surmount every dif- ficulty. I likewise beg leave to^uggisst to your excellency that I conceive the information 1 hokl of considerable consequence in the determination of the line of limits, and that (if not dlready deter- mined) I can throw considerable light on the subject. I hope your excellency will be j^eased to forward orders for me to Nachitoches, informing me if am to descend to Orlean* or proceed to the federal cityj and« if the latter, permitting me to pass by Loui- siana, in order to visit and arrange the affairs of my family, to whom I beg the favor of my general to commuifeate the certainty of the existence of myself and Or. Robinson, who begs to be sincerely remembered to you. The general will pardon the requests I have made of him, knowing the confidence of my heart, in the paternal and soldierly esteem Mrhich he has manifested for him, whn h^s the honor to be, with every sentiment of esteem, respect, and high consideration, dear general, your obedient humble servant, « (Signed) Z. M. I^ike. Jiu excetteney gen. Wilkinson. N. B. Please to present my respectful compliments to your lady, and the doctor's ; and mine to James, who, I hop6, has long ere thia arrived in aifety. (Signed) P. [ No. 4. } Xfev) OrleatUf May SOrA, 1807. DiAU SIR, After having counted you among the dead, I was most agree- tho frenerat^i^*?*! ably surprised to find, by a letter from general Salcedo, receiv«l i| '"^^ few dayn unce, that you were in his possession, and that he 'f^l posed sending you, with your .party, to our frontier post. I lament . ^j^^tienewcorps-lfewdayK unce, that you were in his possession, and that he i 1 '. M I ili'J lljl illl 'y 56 APPENDIX TO PART UI. that you thould Iom your paparif bat shill reljr much jon jmmt mc- moryt and although it irat unlbrtUMto that jrou should havii kailad Red liTer, and mined the object of four enterpriae, jret I pramlse mjrtelf that the r^kkt over which jtpu have paased will afford lome interesting aceneita* ^dl to the ttateaman aa the {rfiUosopher. You will hear of the icenea in which I have been engaged>lind may be inlbrmed that the traitora whoae inftunoui deaigni against the con- atitutian and government of our country I have detected, exposed, and deatroyed, are vainly attempting to explain their own conduct by incntpating me ; and, among other devices, they have asserted that your's and lieutenant WilMpiaon'a enterprise waa a premeditated cooperation with Burr. Being on the wing for Richmond, in Vir> ginia, to conftont tb0 arch traitor and his host of advocates, I have not leisure to commune with you as amply aa I could desire ; let it then suffice to you for ii|lle uy, that of the information you have ac> quired) and the observations you have made, you must be cautious, extremely cautious how you breathe a word, because the publicity may excite a spirit of adventure adverse to the interests of our go< vemment, or injurious to the maturation of those plans, which mhj be hereafter found necessary and justifiable by the government. I leave colonel Gushing in command of the district, with ple- nary powers, and have informed him that you have leave to repair to St. Louis, by the most direct route, the moment you have com- municated to me in dufiHcate the result of your travels, voluntary and involuntary, in relation to clime, country, population, arts, agri- culture, routes, distances, and military defence. The president will be impatient to have whatever you have aequired, and to the detailed account a sketeh must be added, and tlie original and duplicate acl- dressed to me at the city of Washington, with the least possible delay. You may make up your report at Natchitoches, and proceed from thence to the Wascheta, and from thence to the Arkansaw, or you may descend to Fort Adams, and proceed thence to St. Louis, by the most convenient route. C(rioneI Gushing, whom I leave in command of the district, has my orders in your favor, and will give you every indulgence ; but as an expedition is now in motion up the Arkansaw, to explore it to its source and further north-west, it is highly importent you should, either in person, or by two or three confidential men, send forward to the Arkansaw every information which you may deem essential to the success of the enterprise. A ^. Freemen, qnder the chief direction of Mr. Dunbar of Natchez,! ^^1' fpf^'the control of this operation. The escort, which consists ofl^'^ si select non-c(»nmissioned ofiicers and privates, is commanded bJ'^"^*"'! unt SOtI of Bbill Apr cede Ire,, APPENDIX TO I .iRT III. hf »UI •*M •«"*• 4Uo«P**f • ^*** i^nftt the cim- lected, eapowd, ,elr own conduct ,*yh.voattert«d „,pr«mediuted ,lch«ond,inyir. I^TOC«IC»»l**'* ,ttWde.lreiletU nttion you have .c 1 mart be cautious, cauaetbepobUcUy interetta of our go- „, plana, which m^y hegovemw«n*- ie district, with Vk. Ihnve leave to repair wnt you have com- ir travela, voluntary pulation, arts, agn- Thepreaide«*^'" ,d, and to the detailed ^„al and duplicate a - ^th the least po.«bU atoche.,«>dP«<^«='l to the Arkansaw,or , thence to St. Loui^ L„g,v.homlle*vein ;,';vor, and will give now in motion up the ,ther «orth.weat, it « ,„,orbytwoorthree reveV,intonna^<«;, lof the enterprise. A LDunbarofNatchej L, which constats La, i» commanded b, Umitanant WiUuMoni seconded bf Heutenant T. A. Smith* ThU detaehment, with two boata iulti^ljr equipped, win ftaeh Nitebtft In eight or ten daja from the preMnt, and wlU pree#ed with all poaai- Ue dispatch. Yoa will address jour eommtmleationB to Hetitenanft WilUnion, who, after manjr hardsl}ips and diAeuIties, i*eadied this ptece about the first of March. He has finished a prettjr good tra- verse of the river, and his joonwl is interesting. I think the pit- sent parijr will winter near the Arkamaw Osages, about eoo mllM bjr the river from the Misaiasippl. The president mentlMed yott and your explorationatothe source of the Orra» river, in Misaddress to congressf in liandsome terma, and I am convinced he has • proper sense of your merits, and will do you ample justice. I offer yoti leave to go immediately to your fairly, because I apprehend It will be moat deairable ; yet, if yoa possess in your inlbrmation aught which you may desire to communicate Unperson, you are at liberty to proceed, by the shortest route, to the seat of government, near which you will find me, if aHve, three or four montha hence. I pray you to attend particularly to the injunctions of this hastjT letter, and to believe me, whilst I am your general, Your friend, (Signed) Jamxs Wilkinsow. Cafitain PikCy U. S. army. [ No. 5. ] Michitochety Sth July^ 1807. Dear General, Once more I address you from the land of freedom and under the banners of our country. Your esteemed favor of the 30th May now lies before me, in whic'j I recognise the sentiments of my general and friend, and will endeavor, as far as my limited abilities permit, to do justice to the spirit of your instructions. I must premise to your excellency that my letter of the 30th April, dated at Chihuahua, went through a perusal by general Sal- ccdo, previous to his forwarding it. Thac4etter stated the mode of my being brought into Santa Ye, and I will now state to your excellency the proceeding on the subject of my papers. I will omit the hauteur of the reception given m^by governor Allencaster, for a more parti^cular commnni'^ icnUun, which changed afterwards . to extrenie politeness. Beidg 23 ml i! il I, m lii'' ft APPENDIX TO PART III. un4er no r«strietioi»pr«vious to trriving at SuiU F»t I had leerttMl ■II my |Mip«ra which I conceived nocetiaiy to prcienret Imting my book of charu, mjr ord«n» and auchoth'era aato induce the go* Teriior to know me to mjr proper characteri and to prevent hia aua* piciona betog excited to a atricter enquiry. On examininft my commiaalon, orderai he he told me to re* move my trunk to mjr own quarterat and that on the morrow he would converae with me oo the aubject. I had cauaed the men to accrete my papera about their bodiea* conceiving it safer than in the baggage ; but in the evening, fimltog the ladiea of Santa Fe were treating them to wine, Ice. I waa apprehentive their intemperance might diacover the secret, and took them from all -but one (who had mjr journal to full) who could not be found, and put them in my trunk, conceiving that the inspection waa over { but next morning an officer, with two ment waited on me and informed me be had come for me to visit the governor, and brought these two men to take up my trunk. I immediately perceived I was outgeneraled. On my arrival at the govemor'a house, his excellency demanded if I had the key. My reply wu to the affirmative ; when ho observed " it is well ;" my trunk would be a sacred deposit to the charge of the officer, who would escort me to Chihuahua, for which place, after dinner, I marched, under the escort of lieutenant Don Faeundt Matgaretf and 65 men, whose character I beg leave to introduce to the attention of your excellency aa an European possessing all the high sense of honor which formerly so evidently distinguished his tiation, aa the commandant of the 600 troops who made the expedi- tion to the Pavmeetf as an officer of distinguished merit, who in his mode of livtog fully juatified the pomp and style of his actions, out- ahtoea many of their governors of provinces, and whom in my fu- ture reporta I shall have frequent occasion to quote. He observed to me, " The governor informs me, sir, your trunk is under restric- tions, but your word of honor as a soldier that no papera shall be taken out, and you have free ingress, as usual." I gave it^ and I presume it is scarcely necessary to add it was religiously adhered to. On our arrival at Chihuahua the general demanded my trunk, and on its being opened and the papers laid on the table, he took them to hand one by one and demanded what was the purport of each, which tntcA obliged me to declare ; and had I been disposed to have equivocated, ensign Walker, of his Catholic majesty's ser- vice, who stood present and assisted in the examination, could have immediately detected the fraud ; also his excellency understands I sufficient of the English lans^uage to discover the general purport | of any paper. m APPENDIX TO PART IIL §9 iMdMCfiAiA luce th« go* )vcntbi« «»• lold »• » *•• lie moTfOW h« «d th« »•» *• 8«,u Fe were j.but one C^^o put them in my at next inoTnlng med me he had thetetwomento ^atoutgenewled. ency demanded iC whenheob««.rved ,ttt in the charge ,a, for which place. enant Don i'«««''' Lave to introduce to LpoMesaingallthe y diating«i*«'* »»« ,inadetheexpedi- ,(1 merit, >who in his J of his actions, out- ,nd whom in my Cu- aote. He observed U is under restric- ^ no papets shall be I »» I gave it, and i Liigiously adhered to. kemanded my trunk, L the table, he took ' ^as the purport o had I been disposed ahoUc majesty's ser- ..unation, could have .cellency understand the general purpori After going thratig them In this manner and Npanthifr th^m iMotwo piles, he observed to me, ** You will leave tboae papMV fior mjr Inspection, and in the mean while, In concert with cnalicn Wal- ker (who will give the Spaniik tranalatJan> you will give vu a de- tailed account of your route, views, destination, kc. and during that time I wlU examine the pepera now before me.** To tbia I com- piled, flattering myself that It was hia Intention to return me my papers, by hIa demanding a sketch } alao, so great was my conftdeoeo in the all-protecting name of my eountry^ I conceived it waa a greater step than the general would venture to take, to selio on the papers. But when I had finished the proposed sketch and presented it, and found a still further delay, I addressed the general on the subject, when, after a few days, some were returned but I waa offi- cially Informed that " the remaining papora were aeised on, but would be kept In the secret cabinet of that captain generalship, until the pleasure of his Catholic majesty was known,"- at the same time presenting me with a certiticate specirying the number and contents of those detained, and added that they were assorted by my own handt and voluntarily. This assertion was so contrary to truth, honor, or the line of conduct a general should have pursued with a young gentleman, that I took the liberty of telling one of the ofiicers who signed said certificate that it was incorrect. But as Serjeant Meek was still in the rear, with nearjy all my baggage, I took care to give him orders that none of said baggage should be opened, except by force, which will evince that, although I preferred acting like a gentleman to obliging general Salcedo to resort to rough treatment, yet that it was not a volunteer surrender of my papers. But the general will please to recollect that my journals were saved at Santa Fe , which were continued and are entire to this post ; a for- tunate circumstance of the doctor's having copied my courses and distances thrr-igh all the route (except an excursion we made to the source of the river La Platte) unto the Spanish territories, preserved them. These will enable me to exhibit a correct chart of the route, although not so minutely as the one seized on, which was plotted daily by the eye and angular observations. Thus my only essential papera lost were my astronomical observations, meteorological ta- bles, and a book containing remarks on minei*al8, plants, &c. with the manners, population, customs, &c. of the savages ; but the result of the former were in part communicated, and probably my journal may supply part of the balance, and our memories will iqake the loss of the latter of but little consequence. While in the Spa- nish territories I was forbid the use of pen and paper, notwithstapd* m Km ■m m IP iO APPENDIX TO PART III iog which I kept a jouraalt mtde meteorological obBervation8»took cotirsee and distancea, from the time I entered their country until my arnral at this places all of which I brought «tfe off in the men's guKS (where I finally secreted my papers) without detection. From our unremitting attention day and night* the Immense territory they led us throoght the bng time we wene in their coun- try, I have been able to collect (I midie bold to assert) a correct ac> count of their military force, regular and irregular ; also, important and interesting information on geographical situations, political sen- timratts, and dispositions of the people of every class, manners, arts, resources, riches, revenues, value and productions of their mines, situation. Sec. &c. also, with the annual revenues paid Bonaparte, and had we possessed as great a knowledge of the Spanish language when we entered the territories as when we left them, our informa- tbn would have been nearly as complete as I could have wished it, if sent expressly for the purpose of acquiring it, by the open autho* rity of his majesty. But the French language was greatly benefi< cial, in which my communications we;d sometimes made. By the Serjeant, who is still in the rear and never suffered to join me, as general Salcedo conceived he would probably procure some infor^ mation from him, which he could not if immediately under my orders, I expect many other communications of importance from many individuals, who promised to forward them by him. But I presume the general has found himself in an error, as I perceive by a tetter from him to governor Cordero, the serjeant killed one of his men, in consequence of some improper conduct, and the general accuses him of great intractibility, as he is pleased to term it. From the foregoing' statement your excellency will observe that I yet possess immense matter, the result of one year's travel, in a coun- try desert and populated, which have doth been long the subject qi curiosity to the philosopher, the anxious desires of the miser, and tlie waking thoughts and sleeping dreams of the man cf ambition and the aafiiring soul, and in our present critical situation, I do con- ceive, immensely important, and which opens a scene for the gene- rosity and aggrandisement of our country, with a wide and splendid field for harvests of honor for individuals. But my papers are in a mutilated state, from the absolute necessity I was under to write on | small pieces in the Spanish country; also, from 'being injured ini the gun barrels, some of which I filed three times off to take out the papers. 'These circumstances would make it necessary, in the [ first placcy to take a rqugh copy as they stand ; then it will be neces-1 tary to assort the matter, as military, political, moral, trade, climeJ APPENDIX TO PART HI. 41 rations* to<* country «»«» f in the iftea'* tecdon. J, the imine^** in their coun- pO » correct ac- „,,VK>Utical»en. s, manners, att8, lof thwr tnines, Ld Bonaparte, and ipaniah language .em.o«rinfor«»a. IdhavewiaV^ed**' ,y the open auiho- .asgreaUy^nefi- „ea«ant near the Kans, should any offer. I must further add the follow: ng anecdote of my men, in whose breasts- * • ill be neces-llay the whole secret of my papers, and whom I frequently, when in ^^^ ^ \ trade cUmeJthe Spanish territories, Was obliged to punish scverals for outrages il, moral, trauo, ■ ii'" "Iril >': ;i 48, APPENDIX TO PART HI. commit^dwben in. • state of intoxication^ yet nerer didone offer^tr sl^ow a disposition to discover it. It iscirtainrtlifjrknewJnfMnr deatA would follow. ; butstill their fidelity to tbeirtrust is remwki- ble. I hi^ye. charged them.ai to communicatioiisi^nd shall dispose ^f them : in such a manner as not to pot it ia theU* power to -f^ve things much publicity. Dr. RoUnion has accompanied me the- whole routoyis still with mO) and of whom I take a pleasure in ac- knowledging I have received important serviccstss my companion ' indangpra and hardshipsr counsellor in di£Eicultiest and to whose ohymiqilf botanicali and mineralogical knowledge the expedition was greatly indfbted : in short, sir, he is a young gentlen^an of ta* lents, hqnorvand perseverance) pojisessing, in my humble opinion, a inilitary turn of mind, and would, I believe,, in case of an augmen- tation pf the army, enter, if he could obtain a rank above a, subal- tern. I hope the general will be pleased to have my copies Jbr- warded by lieutenant Wilkinson, so that I can command the use of them.at Washington ; also, all my letters written hini in the expc* dition, as they contain informaUon I wish to refer to, and the copies were seized. ^ Dr. Sibley has informed me the expedition up the Arkiunsaw is suspended, which supercedes the necesuty of my send- ing thje express ordered, . / I congratulate the general on the safe arrival of lieutenant Wilr kinson, and ana sorry tp hear of the difiKculties he encountered. I have been obliged to draw money of the Spanish government, which I have to pay to their ambassador at Washington. I supported those of my men wilh me all the time in the Spanish country, se- parated fivm my Jiaggage, and never permitted to have it join roe, presented to thei commandant-general in a blanket cappot : I was under the necessity of going into very considerable expense to sup- port what I not only considered my own honor, but the dignity of bur army. This, where a captain's pay is 2400 dollars per annum, was a ruinous thing to my finances ; but I hope it may be taken into due consideration. „ ' After making myself pretty perfect in the French language, I have obtained such a knowledge of the Spanish as to make me confident in asserting, in three or four years I will with ease make mpetf master of the latter, Italian, and Portuguese, sufiicient to read ail, and speak and write the Spanish. The doctor has even exceeded me in that point. I mention this to the general, as I know the interest he takes in the improvement of his military protege. lone off«rj«r At is rerowk*" 1 ihaU dispwe > ppwer td^v* ^fX&tA me the ^le*forein«c» J roy comptfnioti ^ and to ^ho«e ^he expediUoB g«nilen»«m of t»- umbleopiitton»* io of an augmen- ik above a,wbal. « fnycoP***-^*"' mtnandtheuseof him in the expe- rto,«nd the copies expedition up the ce»tttyofn»ya««'*- I of lieutenant Wilr he encountered. 1 government, which jton. 1 supported ipaniah country, ae- 1 to have it join me, ket cappot: 1 vras We expense to awp- " but the dignity of , doUaw per annum, ,pe it may be taken » French language,! Lshas to make me UillwUhea**"^*'^® Luese, sufficient to Lnie doctor has even to the general, a»l aent of hw mi^^^^'^y APPENDIX TO PART IIi: ^ ? Spanish domir ions of the convuluons of the westeil) country, oi. I'iating in Mr. Burr's plans, and that you were implicated ; sometimes that you was arrested, sometimes ,su- perceded, fcc. Those reports (although I never gave credit to them) gave me great unhapplness, as I conceived that the shafts of calumny were aiming at your fame and honor, in a foreign country« where they had hitherto stood hi^, and were revered and respected by every class. At St. Antonio colonel Cordero informed me of the truth of the statement, which took a load from my breast and made me comparatively happy, and I hope ere long will the villany be unmasked and malignity and slander hide their heads. The be- fore mentioned gentleman sent you by me a box of Spanish choco- late, which I shall forward to colonel Gushing. Governor Herrara said the malidotuneaa of the world was such as to forbid his writing, but begged to be sincerely remembered t^ you. A letter addressed to me Cincinnatti, Ohio, may possibly re&c^h me on my route, when I hope to receive the approbation of my conduct. Many letters written to me, addressed to this place, have been secreted or de- stroyed : possibly the general can give me a hint on the subject. Those ideds have made a deep impression on my mind, and did not an all ruling fuution sway me irresistibly to the profession of arms and the fiatha of military glorify I would long since have re- signed my sword for the rural cot, where peace, health, and content would at least be our inmates, should not our brov)» be crowned with laurel. I must now conclude, ns this letter has far exceeded the bounds proposed when commenced ; but the effusions of my heart are such •n its contents, that I could not limit them to a more contracted space. Excuse my scrawl, as I am entirely out of practice, but be- lieve me to be, dear general, with high respect and esteem, your obedient, servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, captain. General Wilkinson. 'I nil! t^ • ^\s.>^ ^ APPENDIX TO P^^T Illi [ No. 6. 3 J%e committee ^f the houte iff refireeentativee^ (ff the congreaa iff the United Statee^ to whom vm» r^erred the reeoiution to inquire whe- ther antfy and \f any^ what com^tenmttion ought to be made to ray). tain Zebulon M. Pike^ and hie comfiitniontf /hr their eervieet in exploring the Mieeiteipfd rive^ in their late exfiedttion to the •oureee (if the Otage^ Arkaneaw and La Platte Hvertf and in their tour through JVew Sfiain : " REPORT.... That it appears by the documents accompanying this report, that the objects of each of the exploring expeditions) together with the instructions for executing them, were communicated tO) and ap> proved by the preudent of the United States; that the conduct of captun Pike, in each of the expeditions, also met with the approba* tipn of the president, aall that the information obtained and com- municated to the executive on the subjects of his instructions, and particularly in relation to the source of the Missusippi and the na- tives in that quarter, and the country generally, as well on the Upper Mississippi as that between the Arkansaw,and thd Missouri, and en the borders of the latter extenuve river to its source, and the country adjacent, is highly interesting in a political, geographical and hbtorical view ; and that although no special encouragement was given to the individuals who performed these laborious and dan* gerous expeditions, yet it was but reasonable for them, should they fortunately succeed in the objects, to expect some regard from go- vernment ; that the zeal, perseverance, and intelligence of captain Pike, as commander, has been meritorious, «nd the conduct of the indinduals generally who composed the par^»< respectively, has been faithful, and the exertions arduous. The tfommittee therefore are of opinion that compensation ought to be made by law to cap* tain Pike and his companions. ■■*f *^ * « - ' ■^1— DOCUMENTS. IVar Defiartmenti December 7, 1808. I ^on I Sir, |8pec| I herewith inclose copies of the instructions to lieutenant Pike, I ^^^^ for the government of his conduct on the two exploring expeditions! alluded to in your letter ; and likewise lists of the names of the men! composing those parties. You will perceive that the instrucllonslP^'otJ ImiJita nak^ APPENDIX TO PARt hi. <5 :ongret$ if '*c to inquire «/»«- ^e made to eaU- heir tervicet in ^dUivn to the ■ ' s lying this report' ,», together vitli icatedto,»ndap. at the conduct ol Viththcapproba. obtained and com- .sinstrucdoM, and i3,Appiandthena. ,fi.dth.Misaoun, „ its source, and the ,UUcal,seograpb»ca Val encourage«»e»^ ielaboiiousanddan- Kr them, sl^o^^ they Ime regard from go- elUgence of capta^ dfhe conduct of the W respectively, has Uomtnittee therefore ' ude by lavr to cap- Lembcr 7, 1808. Ls to lieutenant Pike, Lploring expeduwnj Ihe names of the men that the instrucuow were gl^ by general Wilkinson ; the object however of each puv ift 'ibg6th(>i> Wlrh the ihttructions, were communicated to, and ap- proved by the preudent of the United States. Althbugh no Jptecial encouragement was g^ven to the indivi- AiuAk, who performed theae laborious and dtmgerous expeditions) ftt it unii but reasonable for tbHp, should they fortunately succeed in thur objects, to expect a liberal reward from the government ; and ae there can be no reasonable doubt of the seal, perseverance, and ititelilgenee of the commander, or of the fiutbful conduct said arduOiiM eiertiona 6( the individuals generally, composbg the re- icfitec^ve parties, it may, I trust, be presumed, that n6 objection will be epposed to a reasonable compensatite for such meritorious ser- vices. I am very req)ectfully( dr, . Your dbrai^ht, seHwi^ H. 1)XARB0XX. Hon. J. Montgomery^ chmrmfiny kifc* {copr,) Head Quarter»t St. Louie, July 30t ISes, Sib, Having completed your equipments, you are to proceed up the Mississippi with all possible diligence, taking the following in- structions for youf Ipeneral government, which are to yield to your discretion in all caias of exigency. You will please to take the course of the river, and calculate distances by time, noting rivers, creeks, highlands, prairies, islands, rapids, shpals, mines, quarries, timber, vrater, soil, Indian villages and settlements, in a diary, to comprehend reflections on the winds and weather. It is interesting to government to be informed of the popula- Uon and reudence of the several Indian nations, of the quantity and species of skins and furs they barter per annum, and their relative price to goods ; of the tracts of country on which they generally make their hunts, and the people with whom they trade. You will be pleased to examine strictly for an intermediate I point, between this place and the Prairie des Chiens, suitable for a [military post, and also on the Ouiscousing, near its mouth| for a 34 .11 lllili m i Ari*]&KDIX TO PART IIL similar establishment, and, will obtain Um content of the ladiant for their erection, informing them thiat they are intended to increaio their trade, and amelioratip their condition. You vijl P!'Qce.ed to ascend the ouun branch of the rirer until yon reach^ the sour^ce of it, or the season migr forbid your further progress without endangering , ypw return} before Uie waters are frozen up. Tou wili endeavor to ascertun the latitude of the most remark- fble pla<^es in your route, .with the extent of the navigation and the direcUon.of Mie different rivers which fall into the Misuaiippif and you will not fi^l to procure specimens of Whatever you' may find curious, in the mineral} vegetable} or animal Idngdoms, to be ren- dered at this place. In your course you are, to spare no pains to conciliate the In- dians and to attach thcm^i;) the Onited States, and you may invite the great chi^ of such wtant nationa as have not been at tAi»/Uacef to pay me a visit Your own good sense will regulate the consumption of your provisions, and direct the distribution of the trifling presents which you may carry with you, particularly your flags. I wish you a speedy, pleasant, and safe tour, and am, sir, with sentiments of respect and esteem, Your obedient servant, (Signed) James Wilkinsok. P. S. In addition to the preceding orders, you will be pleased to obtain permission from the Indians who claim the ground, for the erection of military posts and trading houses, at the mouth of the river St. Pierre, the falls of St. Anthony, ai>d every other critical point which may fall under your observation ; these permissions to be gntnted in formal conferences, regularly recorded, and the ground marked off. J. W.* Lieutenant Z M. Pike^ \st regt, infantry. War Department f February 24, 1808. Sir, In answer to your letter of the 22d instant, I can with plea* sure observe, that although the two exploring expeditions you have I performed, were not previously ordered by the president of the] * For general Wilkioioo's further ioatructiotu, see Part H. page 107. APPENDIX TO FAiiT HI. «? B^tnt for ) incKMO titer un^ our furthw tr«Wf» •'^ ot^remwlL- ,tloii tod *• ott Hftfty ^"* ^8, to be ren- ^iliate the In- ou tnay incite n at <*»•/»'««'• mpUonofyour presents vrVttch id am, sir,wUU United SuMi) there were frequent communicationa on the aubject of each, between generd WUkinaon and this departmenr ; of which the preddent of the United States waa»'(iroiltl time to time, ac- quidnted ; and it will be no more than whM justice requires, to say> that your conduct, in each of those expeditions, met the approba- tioto of the present $ and that the infiM^aUoil jroitt obtirfned and communicated to the executive. In reladon to the adurce ef the Mb* •istipipi and the natives' in that quarter, and the ^xnkniry generally, aa well oh> the Upper Misslslippi^ ai thttt between t|ie Aitaaaaw and the Missouri, and (m the border of the laMBr'^sKemdverrivtrto^its source and the country adjacent, has been considered lugiUy inte- restbg, in a political, geographidyf, and hiteorioal tiew And you may rest assured, thftt your services are held in high estimation by the provident of the United State* } and if any qiinioo of my own can afford you any sadwfaction, I very fraiikly declare that I consider the public much indebted to you for the ei^titrprising, persevering and judicious manner, in which you have pbrfohned th4m. I am, very respectfully, ur, Yourobedicnt servant, ' H/QlVAkliOIiH. Cafitain Zebulon M. Pike. riLKissow* iwUlbepleWed .ground, for the L mouth of the Lry other critical p permi8«lon8 to [orded, and the J.W.* \ry 24, iSOa. Ll can with plea- iedltlonsyouhavel [president of the RETURN or PERSONS EMPX.OTBD ON A TOUR OV DlSCOVOlRT ANb XXPLORA- TION TO THE SOURjOB 0' TnX MlSSISStFPI, {N THE TEARS 1.805 ANQ 1806. lieutenant Z. M. PIKE, < Interpreter PIERRE ROSSEAU, Serjeant HENRY KENNERMAN, Corporals J WILLIAM E. MEEK, ^ i SAMUEL BRADLEY, PRIVATES. Jeremiah Jackson, Hugh Menaugh, John Boley, Alexander Roy, John Brown, John Sparks, Jacob Carter, Patrick Smith, Thomas Dougherty, Frecgift Stoiite, ti!" Jl ^ A^f E^I^IX TQ 9AIIT I|I. WillitmOonk^ Solotn9|i I|u4d|i9Stoiiy John MotW^oft Theodora JHiMeVi PfMtr 9ru)df9» TUt iMitr left $t. ]Uwii the 9U» of AugvMi ilPflt* Wt h«d h««» detached for Uat d^tjr fi^HA the lit of Ji4r^ Tl#r i«tttni«4 th9 aoth of April, 1801; ftvm Mrhiob time until tiw llth Jidgri I in» prapering for the Mcend eiipediitioQ to Uw Hf Hvwrdt wUch cwnr sisttdof thelhU9wiDgp»i;iqil9i tpwili Capuun Lieut. Doctor Serj*ts ■ i . Corporel Z. M. PIKE, JAMES B. WILKINSON,* JOHN H. ROBIHSON, 5 JOSEPH BAiXiENQER,* i WILLIAM £. ME£K,t JEREMIAH JACKSiQN,t VmiVATKS John Bolejr,* Henrjr Kennermui, Samuel Bradley,* John Brown, Jacob Carter,t Thomas Doughert]r,t William Gorden, Solomon Hoddlcaton,* Interpreter, BARONET Theodore Miner,! Hugh Menaugh, John Mountjo]r,t Alexander Rof, John Sparks,! Patrick Smith,! Freegift Stoute, John Wilson,* VASQUEZ.! * Those thus marked descended the Arkansaw river, and ar- rived at New Orleans some time about the of February, 1807, ! Those thus marked are still detained in New Spain. The balance Arrived at the Nachitoches, on or about the 1st of July, 1807. But it may probably be better to leave th^9 whole time undefined, to be regulated by the honorable secretary of war. Z, M. Pi KB, major. % APPimilX TO PAST 10. »9» ly^ , Miner,t antjoy»t Tks,t Stoote* TEZ.t pnaaw river, and V- [of February, 180^' lew Spain. » or about the Istot aye tjT? whole time ctaryof war. I. Pi»«» «n»J®'' ' [No. r. } THE fiMhevlieifig infermed that I had tome aitronomieal in- atiuiMnta with ine, expreaaed a deaire to see them : all that 1 had here waa my lextant ud a hM^ glaaa which m a g ni fted' cor^der- ably, calculated Ibr the day or idght, the remaiMef ol my fnatni- nenta belttifWith my lerieam and party. On eitomhdnf the wti^ tant and ahewbg him the efbet of it in the reflection of the ran«-* he appeared more anrprisedt as well at handredt WIto t ui r roumit J ut, at the effect of tlie inttmment, than any nation of tavaget I waa ever among, and here an idea struck me aa exUMtordinary, how a man who appeared to be perfect roaater of the antiei^t languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and chemist, should be so ignorant of tho powers of reflection and the first principles of mathematics ; but my friend explained that enigma, by informing me of the care the Spa- nish government took to prevent any branch of science from being made a pursuit, which would have a tendency to extend the views of the subjects of the provinces to the geography cf their country, or any other subject which iKMSldbrfa>|; to ^wi^ comparison of their local advantages and tituations with other countHes. [ No* 8. ] LBTTnn TO OOVUtWOR ALbBHCAttXR. SiR) ONthe arrival of your troops at my encampmenr, Int mofftlt; under the command of lieutenant Don Ignacio Saltdo ^hd'Mr. Qttir>' tholemew ; they inftnined me, that your excellency had dire<^ed them to assure me, that I should be escorted through yodr donil- nions to the source of Red river, as our being on the frontiers of your province gave cause to suspidop. I conceived it more pro- per to comply with the request, and repair to Saiita' Pe, in order to explain to your excellency any circumstance which might appear extraordinary, but on my arrival here, I am informed by your excel- lency, that it is necessary, that myself and troops pass by Chihuahua I in the province of Biscay, more than two hundred leagues out of my iHil to APPENDIX TO PART III. nmt«. I have demanded of your excellency to know if we are to be conddered aa priionera of war. You inform me, you do not con- dder ut in that light. Not to embarraas your excellency with many demanda; I only raqueat to receire it from under your hands, in irhat manner I am to consider myself, and the orders for my pasaing ifk\o the country ; also whether the expense of the voyage ia to be copddered aa dafirayad by the govarmnent of Spain or the Unltetl tMatea. Excuse my language* as I am not much accuatomed to WfiUng in French, but your excelloi^ having no person who un« d yta tand a EngUsh, obligea me to attempt the language. lam, sir, Ice. (Signed) Z. M. PiKB^rvn V ,^«^^.V; - ■ ifTfWr-j n>J v.^ff.•>iJ^: f No. 9.. 1 TRANSLATION. iwrtiiq li ah THE first lieutenant of the Anglo American troops, of the name of Z. Montgomery Pikc^i with the party of soldiers under his command, having beer, met with the troops under my orders, at four days journey fro^n the seat of government, in this province, which is under my charge, he was required personally to appear, which he voluntarily did, and cosiolyin'f with the orders of the com- mandng general of these internal provinces ; I bid the said lieu* tenant proceed od his march, with his party equipped with horses, provisions and equipage, under the charge of an officer and sixty men of our troops, with orders to introduce, him to tha said com- manding general in the town of Chihuahua. I pennitted sud party to carry their arms and ammimiUon; actu- ated by proper consideration, and in order to grant said anglo Ame- rican's petition. I certify tlie foregoing contents to be accurate. Santa Fct Mtreh Zdf IS07. .;iVv>r >; (Signed) Joachin Rl. Allvncastbx. . A1>PENDIX TO PART III. 71 If weave to be ou do not con- ncy with many your hands* in for my pM«»g foyagei*^®** i or the United tcoufltpnied i» pefMn who un* ige. ■■ •■•■' ,,-,♦. '-'■'' ican troops, of tha soldiers under his nder my orders, at ;, in this province, ►naWy to appear, orders of the com- II bid the sMd lieu- jipped with horses, fan officer and sixty to the said com- I ammunition ;ac^* nt swd anglo Ame- i to be accurate. ^LLENC^STBR' [ No. 10. ] LBTTH TO OOTBRXOn ALLBVCAtTBR. St. Fernandez, 7th March, \Wf. Sir, ON my arrival at this yillage, and meeting with Dr. Robinaon, he informed me that he acknowledged to lieutenmt Malgir^t to bii^ long to itay part^. At this acknowledgment in fkct, only btereated himself, I am comtndned to expUdn to your excellency, myrmaont for ha\'ing denied his connexion with me. He marched flfom St. Louia with my detachment, as a TOlunteer, (after having with much pain and solicitation obtained permisdon from the general for that purpose t) on our arrival on the Rio del Norte, (then aupposed Reil river) he left the party in order to come to Santa Be, with a view of obtaining information as to trade, and colleet some debts due to per- sons in the Illinois. On my being informed of his embarrassmentSt I conceived it would be adding to them, to acknowledge his haimg accompanied a military party on to the frontiera of the province) and conceived myself bound in honor md friendship to conceal it ; hut his scorning any longer the disguise he had assumed, has left meat liberty to make this acknowledgment to your excellency, which I hope will sufficiently exculpate me in the opinion of every man of honor, and of the world, for having denied a fact, when I conceived the safety of a friend, in a foreign country, was concerned in t^ ? event. The above statement will be corroborated by general Wilkinson, and he will be reclaimed by the United States as a citi* zen, agreeably to our treaties with Spain, regulating the intercourse, commerce, &c. between the two nations. I felt disposed to enter into an expostulation with your excellency, as to the deception prac« tlced on me by the officers who came out with your invitation to en- ter the province, but will omit it, and only request that my Serjeant and party may be ordered to follow with all posuble dispatch, as he has all my astronomical instruments and clothing, except those I now wear. I have found lieutenant Malgares to be what you stated him, a gentleman and a soldier, and I sincerely wish the fortune of war, may one day, enable me to shew the gentlemen of the Spanish army, with whom I have had the honor of forming an acquaintance, with what gratitude I appreciate their friendship and politeness, and none more highly than your cKcellency. With sincere, 8cc. (Signed). Z. M. Pike. i ii APPENDIX TO FART III. [No. II. J LKTTBK TO «IS XXCKLLBlieT OBUMAL SALOBDO* Chihuahua, 6thJ/nil, 1806. Sib, HAVING been for near the spoco of a jreari abMiit from ny coiwtrjrf (Mid the prolMbilitjr of iu y«t being two or throe motiiht bcfmv I arrive in the territorjr of the United States ; the neoeaaitf ,of paaaiii( tbrovgh tome hundred leagues of foreign tenitoryt with the distressed situation of my troopit has induced me to apply to jour excellency for a necessary supply of money. Any arrangement which may be conceived proper for the remunerationf I wUl cheer- fully adopti either to pay it to the Spanish consul at New Orleans, or the embassador of his catholic majesty at Washington. The sum which I conceive will answer the present purposer. of myself and troops in 1000 dollars* for which I will give such, vouchers as your excellency may conceive proper. I have the honor to assure your excellency, t of my high respect, and to be your obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pixb. ( iNO. 18. ] TRANSLATION. ACCEDING to the solicitation you have made in your letter of yesterday, that from the royal treasury of this place, there should be delivered you one thousand dollars, (which you say are necessary for tiiO accomodation of the troops of the United States of America, which you have under your charge) or whatsoever other sum you choose to demand ; and the government of the said United States shall refund the said sum to the Senor Marqvr^ t\e Car*'^4 Yrujo. I have directed the formula lor you to sign of ^miv onding and qu;>druplicate receipts. God preserve you many years, (Signed) Nimebio Saluedo. JMhuahua^ 7th J/tril, 1807. Tor tb.^ Ist lieut. Montgomery Pike. Tn >.3ii'ted (cfisi the original, by Z. M. Pike, captain. aivefumx m'o vaxt ra; 7» *:•* t>^v*Ute [ N» 13. > fin7, IW«- j,Mnt from ^y r thrte »o«»^^** i the necwrity nterrltoryi^fit^ 1 ni« to «ppiy *• ^y •Tf»ng«menl o„,l vUl cheer- NewOrtetn»,o« ;ton. present purpo^'' ^ 1 will give »«ch, • ency* tervantt Z. M. P««»- ♦1 1 Lede in yoor letter 1 place, there -hould L»y»««"«*^***"^ I Swtet of America, K,ver other sum you fe said United States c: '\c CarAYrujo. fduv ^/'T*- rending bars, IE5IO SAtCEDO- Ike, captain. Ske^e^ fait t w/ M Mmt mH^ ff&m «. L«u<*> lo ^ruto^ thf AMtfrMfl ;karf«'4^ 1.0MdiMUl,lf^ Ci^rr (/ Av« faitfUtnt^, get* fti^Jmt^ • f?ZflMM0»rir VVI .7AJ ' 1 BftDASXBDt I* Bdl* FiMine^ dh tMBiisMuriy (nfeaf ^« ooniki«»MlrMi the Mi«lMippfr>mth a oomniiiiA oCor^ lfate>i »>r eiie dbeimva fiahMMiMd, twai leiljeMilAy one eor^ore5 sex ^tM»pr. vatesyand one UnerpveMr ^ hefiaBendep mif ohirgey clg^«t o» Mn Oiege chtQl , wlioi hadt recently returned franvri visit tD> ''^Ihdfr ndtlv abowl M men^iitotoen and children, e£ t' .^ SMt«>h4i m, vedeeMedifroni entxit^^y A«"»' Miethev Indiin nft- xk'^. ; «} two Fanilieee who hid likeiHee boe» to the cky of Was. • ingtonk We aacended'tHe Missourir vhler to* the river df the Osagey up which WK aseendbdto the OM^eitomMk and aiMveden o^alioat^h» l>»tb of A^gttst^ eM dbUvewi^lvtheikr natMi In Mfttf liheir oUefi^ Women and childreHi uMi fc|Meohde ttf tlw>nMMk Here I renudwi* makilg: astranoiilcaV cMetwiiioiis^ and pee^ paUng for any nt:ireh bf kndmtilr ttie 1st of Septeniber, wlish we coek our depavtvrtt' fiir thv Fawileeire|NibIid« acooaspallieA bf sonnf Osage chieiw who werd depatedibf their Mtirar to fonmi m trmyefi peace and amit^iiAth th#nation'of the Kant (with wtoiAPtlMjr>wea» then at war) under^the au^eee of tlM ISMtefd ^fii. ttMndftlO the Pawneet republic abeiN the 9scl» of siM month, w6«ra'9 oateadl to be held a conference between the Osage and Kans chiefi^aMi mediated a peace for the two naticM. ' After having iMhl cMincils with thd Pawnees, naadvastvoniomloalobtervMtbMittte; I' ii a ic l iwi from the! slaid viMage on the 7th of OctelkiVanid arrived aiPfbe Aiw kansaw on the nth of die said month, wfleM We reoiahwd'iMtUlhif Mth, pieparingcoanoes^ covered, leaving the main Arkansaw to our left ; and much to our astonishment I arrived about the middle of said month on a water ctf the Missouri, Miich I ascertained to be the tiyer Flatte; on which we discovered signs of immense numbers of Indians t here we ren. < ned a few days searching for those Indians, in hopes toob> tain from them infurmation as to, a route to cross the mountains to the west, but not' discovering any, we crossed a large chain by a practicable route, and fell on a targe branch •'of water which I then conceived to be the head. of the Red river. Here we remained a few days to recruit our horses and ourselves, when I ordered the party to proceed down said river, and I with two men ascended it to its source* inhere I made some observations. I then returned and overtook the party,, when we continued to descend said stream, until the perpendiciilarity of the rocks and other difficulties had rendered it impossible to proceed . any further with horses, several of which had already been/killed by falling from the rocks, S(C. .i,f (Lthen caused sleds to be constructed, and soldiers to draw the baggage on the ice, and ordered a few men to endeavour to conduct the horses by a more eligible route out of the mountains ; at the extreniity ■>:> Myiremaininig; hor&e». being in a situadon not to allow me to hope for any further assistance fr6m them, unless permitted further to recover : as this woujd have engrossed a long time, I determined to leave: some men with the. horses and part of the baggage, and proceed with the remunder and the articles absolutely necessary on foot, (^n the 14th January, having constructed a small place for my men and baggage who remained, we marched, proceeding up a western branch of *he Arkansaw, which appeared to lead in a direct route through the mountains. On the 20th of said month, being obliged to cross a prairie of some leagues in breadth, late in the evening, (many of the soldiers having their feet wet) had it not in our pc^wer to make fire until eight or nine o'clock at night. We were 00 utifoitunate as to ascertain that nine of the party were fio- . The ensuing day discovering that they were not able all to APPEKDIX TO PART IH. 75 :oming to ho»- ar march. ^^ i the 4th or 5th ng for the route which vre dis- ^nd much to our wnthonavrater iver J?fa«*» ^"^ >f Indiana I here ,»,inhopeatoob. the mounttdns to large chiun by a ater which I then ,e remained a few ordered the party ascended it to its then returned and d said stream, until oWea had rendered s, several of which isoldiewtodrawthe Udeavour to conduct [e mountains J at the January, and found irkansaw, conceiving Je point Ueft on the I not to allow me to PM permitted further |g time, 1 determmed 1 of the baggage, and Llutely necessary on led a small place for narched, proceeding 1 appeared to lead in a i20th of said month, les in breadth, late in ]r feet wet) had it not Vclock at night. We |of the party were fvo- ' were not able all to mareh, we remained a few days to lay in provisions, when I left two soldiers and four loads of our baggage, and proceeded on our march ; but on the third day, finding another of my men not able to march, was obliged to leave him encamped, but previously furnished him with sufficient provision. We then crossed another chain of moun- tains, and on the Ist February arrived on the waters of the Rio del Norte, (which I then conceived to be the Red river) as some maps which I hold, portrayed the source of the Red river to tie betweM those of the Arkansaw and Rio del Norte. I then proceeded to choose a station where there was sufficient wood to form canoes or rafls, in ordisr to descend the supppsed liver to Natchitoches. Having in many instances experienced the insolence and pre- suming dispositions of the Indians, when in superior numbers, I conceived it proper to throw up a small work for the protection of ourselves and baggage) until wr. should be prepared to descend the river. Four or five days after, I dispatched five of rhy men to returti to those I left in the mountains, and bring them on if capable of marching; if not, to supply them with provision and bring on the l>3ggage. Dr. Robinson, who had hitherto accompanied me as a volunteer, having some pecuniary demands in the province of New Mexico, coiicui two or tbnc days. |n the cMirao of two or three Jhour«, I aras infomedibjr a aentim^ whom I aiways kept on f hUl, «fthie ap- proach of a party of strangensi and in a abort period thittrp arrived t|vo officera and )iOi9 meui at a amaU ^stance ^xwo the cump -, tii0 iieutMant con^miwidant hiviog ^Bntered my worlw ky mf invita- liao, informed me« thstihp goTjsriiQr of Nev ^«^co had been io' ioroMd of my vtuation, and undentanding I waa bo^nd for Red river, off^vd m» apy a^ustance which lay in hia power to accomq- datiB BObe. I replied that I "afo^d in Q9 n^P^ of ajs^aunpe } that I ^couid deicend tho river fvith craft, which I jproposed fMjp^tructing. He thfa infprimed me I ivat on the Rio del Nprte) (whiph aatoniahed mue extremely) a^d that the apurce of the lied rivf r was ei^ht days inarch below Santa Fe ; and that the governor being informed th«t Ihadmisaed my route, offered me mules, horses, Ccc. to conduct jfn§ to th^ Red river, and wished to see me at his seat pf govern- mient. I told him that if the whole of my party were here, I would not heaitate to pay my respfects to his ^xcel^ency with one or two men. Be «hitp assured ptf that therp was not the least con- atnuot ; that I could go in before or ftft^r the arrival of {nay pwpy, as my ioclicatioo dictated ; that if I we^t in now, he would leave an Utah iQtarpdretpr and one in^, with th^ men pf my party J chose tp leave, in order to canduct on thp serje^t and party when they ar- rived. I finally condudad it would bp more c^maist^nt with the good understanding which existed betwaenthe govemroant of the United States and his cathojic majesty, to proceed to Santa ?«, and give to governor Allencast^r an explanation of my being on his fron- iciera. We then marched iof his pamp, about 12 miles diatant, leaving the interpreter, one Spfmish so|dipr, a corporal and one prl* vate of my detachment, with orders for the conduct of my aerjeant when he should arrive. The next day I was much surprised to find the lieutenant and all tlte regular troops, except IQ, were ahput to remain, and that the militia officer was to conduct me to Santa Fe ; the lieutenant girin|: I as a reason, the pmicular orders to see 9it my party in safety at the capital. We arrived at the said town in four or five days, where I wasreceivcd at first in a manner very different from what I had been taught to expect fi^om the proffers of the lieutenant in the name of I the governor. The arms of my men being taken possession of by] tile guard the first night of my amvai, without my Knowledge, andl ATPEMDIX TO PAST in. »f ■ ^.ppi itb« cwwP » « bomid for ^^^ ,o«er to «ccomq- ^^ist»l»pe i that I «)8ed pop^tructing. (V^iph »»toni«b«i l,^p^wpightd»y» •ing informed lh»t lei, lie. to conduct jiUwatof gO*«"'- werp hew, X would ncywihoneortwo not the least con- r,h« would leavuap niyp«trtyXcho.etP . party wl»«»*«y *'^' L gotcrnrowtofthe teedtoSant»?P»a"<^ Ly being on Wsfron- out 13 mil^* <*'*■*•"*' corporal undone pn- luct Qfi»y«n«"^ Rpd the lieutenant and , remain, and that the the tteutenant giving .pariyinwfctyatthe |r or five days, where I I from what I had been futenantinthenameofl Itakenposwswo"^^'^^, lut my knowledge, and being likewise informed that Dr. Robinson was a prisoner at some leagues distance ; they induced me to believe that a rupture had taken place between Spain and the United States, and to address a letter to the governor, dciaanding if I was to condder myself and party as prisoners of war ; and if the expense ariung from the deten- tion of myself and party was to be defrayed by the United States or hifi catholic majesty. To this his excellency gave me a yry polite verbal answer, assui'ing me tb^t I was by no i«eans to conuder my- self as a prisoner ; that the arms of my men were taken unknown to hiii|, and slurald be immediately restored* but that it was necessary I should march immediately to join lieutenant Malgwes and party, who were waiting for me at the village of St. Fernandez, in order to conduct me to Chihuahua, to be presented to the commandant ge- neral with my papers for an explanation. On my arriving at said village, I addressed a letter to the governor, informing him that Dr. Robinson had accompanied my party as a volunteer, which I had not acknowledged at Santa Fe, as I was apprehensive that his coming on to the frontiers of the province with a military party, in case of a rupture between the two governments, might place him in a critical situation. The lieutenant only further observes, that he has not entercr! into the particulars of thp hardships undergone, as that, enduring thirst and famine for three or four days, at Afferent periods ; march- ing over ruggid mountains, through snowa three and four feet deep ; their bodies exposed to every inclemency of the weather, for want of clothes, carrying at the same time, packs of 60 or 70 pounds bur- then ; in short, every hardship which a savage life in its greatest state of barbarity is exposed to, are circumstances only calculated to excite humanity, and not give explanation as to the general chain of events connected with the voyage. He therefore refers his excel- lency to the commander in chief of the United States army for an explanation of the general intent and nature of the expedidon, and to his notes, astronomical observadons and charts for the courses, situadon, &c. of the different points and rivers alluded to in the fore- ^ing sketch. _i-i6 n AIPPBNDIX TO PART III. [ No. U. 1 CMAuakmi \4th 4/*rUt nor. Sir* ON my inarching from Santa Fo) governor Allencatter in> formed me. that my papers would be considered as a sacred depot until my arrival at tl^is place, when your excellency would ezaniine and take them into consideration. When they were examined and taken possession of, I expluned without disguise the nature and contents of each, conceiving that thoae only which had any relation to the object of my expedition could be interesting, and that merely a copy of the chart and trans- lation of the official papers would be taken. You must be conscious, sir, that it was in my power to h^ive secreted or destroyed every trace of my voyage and plans previous to my arrival at Chihuahua, but resting satisfied that no rupture had taken place between his ca- tholic majesty and the States 1 have the honor to serve, which would be a. justification for the seizure of my papers ; I prefered leaving them in statu quo, to using duplicity, which in some degree always implicates the character of a military man. Admitting the country which I explored to be contested be- tween the two governments, each naturally wishing to gain some information as to its geographical situation, in order that they may form correct ideas as to what would be their mutual interests, found- ed on justice and the honor and the dignity of the nation in forming the line of demarcation. This was the view of the United States government in the expedition which I had the iionor to command^ and the loss of the geographical sketches taken, might be the occa- 4on of a suspension of the final line of limits, and consequently the delay of an amicable adjustment of the now existing differences be- tween the two governments. Your excellency may not have an intention of detaining my pa- pers, which I had only began to suppose from your returning part by lieutenant Walker, in which case you will pleas to excuse this in- trusion ; but I will add, that if you have it in view to detain the pa- pers, I request you will be pleased to examine them with particular cure, and you will find that there are letters from general Wilkin- son, as well as his son to me, also from the latter to his father and mother, and others which are by no means of a political nature, or at least not relative to the relations exiting between the government of Spain and the United States, aad therefore can by no means be APPENDIX TO PART III. r» »rtf, i8or. Allenca«t«r in- , a sacred depot would «»nuiie iof,Iexpl«4»«* conceiving that • „y expedition chart and trana- ua^be conaciout, deatroyed every ,al at Chihuahua, e between his ca- 5rve, which would [ prefered leaving me degree always be contested be- ling to gain some xler that they may al interests, found- naUon in forming 'the United States [>nor to command, night be the occa- consequentiy the ,g differences be- kfdetwning my pa- ir retm-n'mg part *>y 1 to excuse this in- iw to detain the pa- . lem with particular Im general Wilkin- ler to his father and 1 political nature, or Len the government tan by no means he mteretting to your excellency. The book which conudnt my charts also 9ontain8 part of the blotters of a voyage to the source of tho Missisuppi, which I presume cannot be interesting to the. Spanish goretnment. "'>'■ 'But to conclude, I have only to request of your excellency to know if h is your intention to detain my papers nowin your posaeth. sion ; if so, that you may cause me to be furnished (or suffer nse, to take) a copy of them, and that I may receive, a dectificate from'in^ der your hand, of the number, nature. Sec. of the< said papers, and lb* reasons for their seizure and detention, in order that my govern- ment may be tinaUed to make the proper appUcatliMi to the Spa- nish court for an explanation. My reason for applying to your ejc cellency so early on this subject, is that oh the arrival of my men, who are still in the^retarj I might be {mpared to march in a short period of time, (for under the present aspect of affairs) I feel con- scious that I am as anxious to arrive on the territories of the United States, as your excellency must be for me to quit the dominions of his catholic majesty. In all events, I hope you will believe me to be with the highest sentiments of personal respect, Tour most obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, His (excellency, brigadier g^erat Don Nimealo Sftlcieido, command- ing-general of the ihteriot' province of the klh||dom«f New Spain.- •■^'•"' "' '-' ''•-^'-•'■^ '.■n..ar... . ;; ■.■r^mrntf ■11 >fh ■' [ No. 15. 1 ; TRANSLATION; OF the papers connected with the expedition, which by orders of the United States government, you have made from the St. Louis of the Illinois, unto the settlements of New Mexico, and which you yourself* separated from those which you brought here and put into my hands the day you arrived in this town. There has been formed an inventory and certificate respecting each of them accompanying it to you, and deposited in the (^ce, the 17th current* fop the purpose * See my account of die seiaure of my paper*, April ik, z8o/.> tia AFVEVRyiX TO WfOftm. t9Mr«iiifl«i«tiMd; tb* >uil{^«nt on whiktli renMiin.ibrii«d9ol. 4Mof UwUnftiny kivd^and, ihdl be i-qMirted kt the Mcretav^ tflilfM of this €Apu&n genenddyr ; and medktimg thiit you kaiiw kidi/- cated in your summons official to this government, the gr e atest de* dto to arrivo ad the< tetritorns of the Umte4 ScsttfSf have i>e4»lv£d tiMt yon preparer to ceminve your vograge in* two or three day a;, iiv eonoaqoeiiee ofidiicfa, iba arranyeanenla neoeasarf afatll bd^madOy attehaa'yoor^thithepeo^ of your expe^tion hinM»oxperienced «mU )«uff arrival ae this jplaee. God preserfelydu-^atiany^earflit. (Signed)' liiieaaiorSAtLeBBfo. lai Lieiite»t»itof Inibits^ Mantgmftery Pikoi ir^^Trattsilired fiiMii^4ifipia{inalr tty Z. M; Bitte^ capldili. 1o ^UtfJl.Hl I No.. L6. J TRANSI^TION. ■tm: M .X 4i/i IMVENnCQUYoCfMiperawh^h. tbe lieutenant of infantry of tyheUlMMted States (^ Ataeticai Montgomery Pike».in the superior government) and commandant general of the internal provinces of New Spain, as belonging to a voyage which he executed from St. Louis up the Illinois to the population of New Mexico, to visit the Indian nations, and reconnoitre tfie country and intermediate rivers, as it appears his expedition was undertaken by provision of the go- vernment of the said United Staffet and the orders of general Wilkinson. No^ 1. Letter from general Wilkinisa to^ Pike, dated 34th June, 1806. 3. Another ftmn* the same to Pfte^ 18th Julyi 180«. 3. Another from ^m aanrie to tiw same officer, ,19th Julyj 1 806. 4. Another fVOM the same taPike^ dated 6th August, 1806. 5. Letter ^m Ueutonanv Wilkinson to his father, 37th October} li06v 6» Another from the same to the same, seth October, 1«06. X. Letter from Pike to general Wilkinson, 33d July, 1806. 8^ Letter from lieutenant WiUunson to lieutenant Pike, 36tb Ootobcr, 1806'. . ^!'i^'' ^ ' APPENDIX TO PART III. M' Lhe •ecrot.a** cai iptilti. «aBt oi infantry «f L,.inlhea«penor \temal provinces of executed from bt. Mexico, to Vmt the Ltermediate rivers, 'provision of the go- 1 orders of general Le, dated 34th June, Il«4 ISO*. rjer,mhJa\yi^8<>«- Ith August, 1806. [father, STth October, ]th October, l«06. lieutenant Pil^«» 2^* I 9. Proclamation of general Wilkinson, prohibiting any citiMn of the United States trading with the Indian nations with- out his permission, or that of the government, dated 10th July, 1805. 10. A letter from Charles Junot, agent for the Indians, to gene- ral Wilkinson, dated lUth July, 1806. 1 1. Notes of lieutenant Pike on the voyage from New Mexico, to Chihuahua, of four pages. 13. A rough manuscript of the Missouri and Osage rivers. 13. Letter from sergeant Ballenger to general Wilkinson, with* out date. 14. Letter from lieutenant Wilkinson to Pike, without date. 15. A certificate in the French language of a certain Baptist La- mie, found among those nations, and q;>ecifying his mo« tive for being there. 16. A bundle of papers in the French language, which contained notes on the harangues and manifestoes which lieutenant Pike had delivered to the Indian nations. 17. A passport of lieutenant Pike to the Indian Winapicaneya cai^ain of the little Osage. 18. A small draught or map of the country which is situated be- tween the Mississippi and Santa Fe, with a description of that town, and of having met with three thousand Ca- manches. 19. A book 8 vo, manuscript, which contains the di&ry of lieu- tenant Pike, from January, 1807, to the 2d March of the same year, when he arrived at Santa Fe, in 75 pages. ZO. A book 4to. manuscript, in paste-board, with copies of letters to the secretary of war and general Wilkinson, and various observations relative to the commission of the lieutenant^ in 67 pages. 21. A manuscript book in folio, containing different plans of countries, &c. with a diary with Rhumbs distances, and worked observations and meteorological tables, which arose from a revisal of the voyage, by the said lieutenant Pikc; in 40 pages. Don Franciso Valasco, first officer of the secretaries of the commandant generalship of the internal provinces of New Spain, and Juan Pedro Walker Alferez, of the company of horse of the royal presidio of Janos. We certify that the lieutenant of American infantry, Montgo- mery Pike, when presented to the commandant general of. the be- 26 r - 9$ APPENDIX TO PART III. fere mentioned provinceit Don Nimetio Selce4lo» Ukewiae produceil a smell trunk which he brought with himi* and that in the presence of the undersigned, opened himself» and took out different books and papers, when having separated with his own handsy under our cognisance, all that appeared to be, or that he said was piivate, or had no connection with the voyage ; delivered the remainder to the demand of the commandant general, which were solely those comprehended in the foregoing inventory which we have formed, and for the verification of which we have signed these presents at Chihuahua, the 8th of April, 1807. (Signed) Franciso Valasco. Juan Pseao Walker. Translated from Uie original, by Z. M. PiliO} captain. [ No. ir. ] ChihuahuatJtfiritAtAflSOr. Sir, I H'^PE your excellency ra$j not uttrihute it to presumption, or a disposition to intrude when I address you on a subject foreign from my official dnties, and on which I can only spealc as an indivi- dual, but I should feel, myself wanting in humanity, and that atten- tion which every man owes to his fellow creatures in distress should I remain silent ; and more especially when those who are compatriots and some former companions, now in a strange country, languishing out their days, far from their friends and relations, without scarcely a dawn of hope remaining of ever again being blest with the view of their native homes, It it scarcely necessary to add that I allude to the unfortunate companions of Nolan, who having entered the territories of his catholic majesty in a clandestine manner, equally in violation of the treaties between the two governments, the laws of the United Slates and those of Spain, could not be reclaimed or noticed by their country ; yet from every information I have receiv- ed on the subject, the men of the party were innocent, believing that Nolan had passports from the Spanish governor to carry on the traffic of horses. I pretend not to justify the many irregularities of their conduct since in the Spanish dominions, but hope that it may * The want of candor exhibited in the certificste is manifest, and was an im« becile attempt to shew that all 017 actions were voluotary, and that io the delivery ef mj papcn th«re was ao degree of coaatraist. wUc produced n the presence different books I hMKli, under lid was piivate, e remainder to >re solely those ve have formed, hese presents at LASCO. Walks*' captain« , it to presumption* n a subject foreign lity, and that atten- iniUatreas should I rho are compatriots ountry, languishing »8, without scarcely West with the view to add that I allude p having entered the ine manner, equally vemments, the laws not be reclaimed or nation I have rccciv- innocent, believing srnor to carry on the ,any irregularities of but hope that it may |manifert,indwasanim- -and that in t^'*^""^ APPENDIX TO PART III. •• be viewed with an eye of clemency, as they are most of tbem rerj illiterate, and possessing scarcely any part of an education. David Fero was formerly a subaltern in a company of infiuitrjr of the United States, commanded by ny father at the time I senrsd as a volunteer, but left the service (as I have been informed) owing to some irregularities of conduct ; his having been once my companion entitles him at the present to my particular attention ; yet I will herii mention to your excellency a circumstance which may appear if known in an unfavorable light, viz. About 1 5 days past I was in- formed Fero was in town, and that he desired to see me. I was ex- tremely mortified at receiving the information, as I conceived he must have left his post in a clandestine manner, yet I could not find in my heart to refuse the interview, which I gaye, but determined at the same time to inform you of the circumstance, conceiving that you could not look on it as a matter of much criminality. But to conclude, I have to beg of your excellency, if in your power, and consistent with the line of conduct you conceive proper to pursue, to inform me if any thing can be done towards restoring these poor fellows to their liberty, friends and country, and in a par- ticular manner I intercede for Fero. If it is out of the power of the general to grant them leave to return to the United States, I beg to know if there b any objection to my taking out letters to their fathers, wives fcc. I should not have addressed this letter to the general, had I not conceived the fate of those men alluded to was at his disposal, as he had suffered one of them to join the service of his catholic majesty ; nor neither do I request the honor of any other than a verbal reply, as I write in the character of an individual, and not as an officer of the United States. I-am, ur. With high consideration. Your humble, obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike. His excellency, general Nimesio Salcedo. [ No. 18. 3 Mttc/dtocheay20thJu^^tf 1607. Sir, PREVIOUS to my departure from Chihuahua, we had entered so fully into the subject of the seizure of my papers, that I should Hit «* APPENDIX TO PART III. nerer hare madt another appeal, utitil I made one through our g«- vemment to the ambatiador of hit catholic niujeatjr, had 1 not re« ceived orders to that effect ; it not being known at the time those iDStructions were givent that the proprietf of the seizure had beet, contested between your excellency and myself. But, as you have now had time fully to re consider the business, it may not appear in 4be same light that it did when I had the honor to address you be* lore. Your excellency may be induced to conceive that the mea- -surt; of seising my notesi plans, meteorological and ostronomical ob- Mrvatioas, Gcc, for parts of the Mississippi, Missouri, Osage, Kans and Arkansaw rivers ; waters acknowledged by the Spanish govern- meiit to be within the known territories of the United States, may not be justifiable. Whatever may be your opinion on those subjects I am ut an entire loss to conceive, how, and upon what principle you could involve in that seizure, letters from individuals to individuals, Che contents of which could in np wi99 be interesting to the Spaniitii government, I have therefore once more to appeal to your e^cellenr.j , with a hope that the time you have had for deliberation may induct /ou to conceive it proper, and but an act of justice to deliver up the pa- pers sdz«d at Chihuahuaj and hope your excellency will have llic goodness to address them to me in a packet, to the care of the com- manding officer of this place. If the continuation of an amicable underslAndiug between the two nations is an object of estimation in tiie mind of your excellency, the final demarcation of limits myst be considi rod as the first great step to be taken towards its accomplinhnient ; and to enable my go- Tjernment to form a correct idea on that subject, it was requisite they should be well acquainted with the geographical situation of the heads of the Arkansaw and Red rivers, the jbrmer part of which I had accomplished, and could with all ease have carried the remain- ing part of that object into execution, (after discovering my mistake of the Rio del Norte for the Red river) had I been permitted by the governor of New Mexico, instead of which I was hurried tlirough the country to Chihuahua, without having time given for the absent part of my party and baggage to join me, by which means I was obliged to appear in a garb and manner entirely incompatible with the rank I have the honor to hold, and in some degree un indignity Co the country whose commission I bear. Atul to add to my morti- fication, was then deprived of the information 1 had obtained at tho r^que of our lives and the suffering of unknown miseries. The in- forppatio!) gontained in my notes were npt only of a geographical na* APPENDIX TO PART HI. ougln OUT fS^ , had 1 not re- he lime thoie xure h»d beei. it, a« you have notappow*" kddress you be- e that the mea- stronomical ob- ri, Osage, Kana Spanish govern- ited States, may n those subjects lat principle you kh to individuals, ,g to the Spanish e^cellcnnv, with » may induce /ou ieliverupthepa- ncy will l-.Ave ^hc B care of the com- iding between the . your excellency, i as the first great toenable my go- it was requisite ical situation of ibe er part of which I arried the rcmain- .cring my mistake n permitted by the s hurried tluough iven for the absent „hich means I was incompatible with legree an indignity [o add to my morti- ,ad obtained at tho liiiiseries. The in^ a geographical na* tura, but also luch ai would enable the executive of the United States to take some steps to amellonte the berberous state of verioui savage tribes whom I visited; and I may be permitted to eddy would have added in Home small degree to the acquirement of tdf enee, which is for the general benefit of mankind. When I left Chihuahua, I was informed my sergeant and pertjr were detained near the place, in order that thej •Ao«/d ntt be per> mitted to join me. That by a separate examination they might bo intimidated to make a declaration to justify the conduct observed to- wards us. This I am conscious must have failed, but am at an en- tire loss to conceive why they should have been detained unUl this time, when your excellency assured nte they should follow immedi- ately. Their detention has been of considerable private injury to ^nyself, and an insult to my government. When I marched from Chihuahua, your excellency officially informed me that every thing was prepared for my transport to our lines, but was much surprized to have to pay for the hire of horseSf &c. demanded of me at the first place where we changed our escorts; as I neither conceived it just that I should pay for an involuntary tour I had taken through ^our territories, neither was I prepared to do it } but as your officers were responsible, and gave their receipta for the transport, and from the orders received by captain Viana at Nacogdoches, I was obliged to hire beasts to take me to Natchito- ches, although an escort of your troops were furnished. I here, with the greatest ple'\sure embrace the opportunity of acknowledging the polite treatment I received from your officers in general on my route ; but in a particular manner to colonels Cordero Herrara ; to captains Barelo and Viana, with lieutenant Malgares ; to all of whom it would be my greatest pleasure to have it in my power to return the compliment. Will your excellency do me the honor to present my high re- spects to your lady, and my compliments to Mr. Truxillo and father Rocus. I am, sir. With the most profound consideration, Your obedient servant, (Signed) Z. M. Pike, captain. His excellency governor Salcedo. AH>£MDIX TO PART HI. f No. 19. ] nesLLMHT gfH^ ON the 16th of Pebruarf If.at, John Robinson appeared before Ibe gorernor of N«w Mexico, saying that he wai a Frenchman) in- hahkahtof St. Louiti which place he left on the iSth June last year, whh the view of gtrfng to the country of the Pananas to malte re- toveries *, that having; receifed information that his debtors had di- rected their stepH to said province, he had concluded to follow them, In company with 15 other persons, who went for the purpose o( hmitfng on the rivers of Arcs, Arkansaw and Colorado; (Red river) that in the neighbouring mountains the two last of his company had left him, for which reafton he saw himself under the necessity of proceeding to the Yutas Indians, to whom he exposed his situation, and who accordingly agreed to conduct him. On the S5th of the same month of February, at the distance of 4 days march from tlie town of fianta Fe, and 9 leagues west of its set- tiement, at the place called the Ojocaliente, (Hot Spring) near the confluence of Rio Grande del Norte, (QMat North river) and that known under the name River de los Conejos, (of Rabbits) a detach- ment of the garrison of said province of New Mexico, met Montgo- mery Pike, first lieutenant of the infantry of the United States, with eight men of the said infantry ; who on being given to understand that he ~must be conducted to said town, consented to accompany them. It was then settled that two of his men should remain on the spot with half of his catholic majesty's detachment, to wait for six others who had not yet arrived, and he proceeded to the governor's, to whom he declared, that his being in that neighbourhood was owing solely to his having been lost, and having mistaken the Rio del Norte for the Colorado. But this officer in compliance with the orders of this, hlr superior officer, forwarded the said first lieutenant with the six men of the American army, and the above mentioned John Robinson to this capital. They arrived here on the 2d instant, and said officer on being presented to me, laid before me in the same manner as he had done to the governor of Santa Fe, the papers relative to his mission ; the correspondence he had carried on with your excellency since it com- menced, with his journals and note books. Your excellency is not ignorant of the repeated representations made by the king's minister in the United States, and by the mar- quis of Cassa Calva while he was in Louisbna^ summoning the APPENDIX TO PAWr III. 8T ppeared before FrenchmMijin- June last year, as to maVe re- debtors had dl- to follow thero, the purpose o\ kdo; (Red river) \\t company had the necessity of Bed his situation, * t the distance of 4 Bs west of its set- Spring) near the th river) and thac Rabbits) a detach- |ico, met Montgo- nited States, with .en to understand ited to accompany ,uld remain on the kt, to wait for six , to the governor's, [eighbourhood was mistaken the Rio (inpUance with the (aid first lieutenant above mentioned lid officer on being Incr as he had done lo his mission ; the [uency since it com- [ted representations L, and by the mar- la, summoning the American government to carry into effect any projects of nltMinf its expeditions into territories unquestionably bclongiftg to his mar jesty; you must th»reiurc, without any further obscrvat^s or re- marks on my part, be h