18^, V \f 1J^. .* .^__ Pn'fiitlrJ liiiiiils JM-Houu I t UN AN ACC VAl l^- • • <• •. ^w TRAYELS IN THS UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. % IN THE. YEARS 1806 ^ 180r, and 1809, 1810, ^ 1811 ; INCLUDING * AN ACCOUNT OF PASSAGES BETWIXT AIMICA AND BRITAIN/ AND ^ ■■ TRAVELS THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF GREAT BRITAIN, IRBLAND, AND UPPER CANADA. •i^i ILLUSTRATED BY EIGHT MAPf. BF JOHJSr MEU8H. VWW«^««MMI^WWWWMW«l *» IN TWO yOI.UM£^. VOL. I. • PHILADELPmA, PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, And for sale by the different Book«eUen in the United States^ Andlqr THOMAS & GEORGE PALMER, ^ Agents for the Author; 181«. A , . jWf T. 6* -^ Bb it rHI^^bkbd, That on the twelfth day of October, in (t s\ the thirty .leveM year of the Independence of the United States ' '/ of America, A. D. 1813, '"^ ' Joitir MkL)*R* of the said district, hath deposited in thh office the title of a book, the light whereof he claims as author, in the words following, to wit : Travebi i« tjtn^ United 9t4tes of America, \» the ve||ni 1806^ ^fQf, a^sd I'M, 1810, & 1811 ; including an Account of Pusages betwixt Ame* rica and Britain, and Travels ^rough various parts of Great Britain, Ireland, and Upper Canada. Illustrated by eight Maps. By John Melish. Intwovoju^*; " ' ' In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, intituled, ** An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the cities of maps, charts, and btt>k% n fhfe autho^itf ^and' priiipri^ors of such copies during the times therein mentioned.** And also to the act, entitled, •* An act supplementary to an act, entitled, <' An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the anthora and proprietors of such comes durii^ the times therein mentioned,'* and extending the benefit thpsedft* Ike arts dfdesigniiigv'cngraving, and etch< Ing historical and other prints." D. CALDWELL, Cleri efihe Dutrict of Paauyhtnaa. '% ■;t :^' -m^t w * '1^ ■»> pb£:face. ites s-l tlM ''4 1^ me* f un, obn lied, • lOf *Mi, ■-^iv' "^ pics An tof •i- ' hort and tch. 1 HE journal of a traveller, when judicioudy compiled, presents a living picture ot the state of the cduntry through which he passes; white the interest that is excited by the nairative grati- fies the fancy, and combines to render this at once an entertaining and instructive species of reading. Hence we find that books of travels have of late multiplied to a great extent, and are always in demand with the public. The field is inexhausti- ble, and must continue so while society is inapm* gressive state. ' No country presents a more ample field for in- quiry than the United States of America, and it is equally important whether we view it in regard td the inhabitants of America or of Britain. The former find themselves in possession of an kn- mense territory, a great part of which is still unoc- cupied, or very thinly inhabited, so that there is room for the industry of thousands of generations, yet unborn ; and, as if by the special ordier of PBBFACB. Mi I* ii Provid^ce, mankind are invited into the most distant regions of the country, by the advantages of soil and climate, no where exceeded in the world. Sprung from the only country, which, at the period of the settlement of America, possessed any thing like rational freedom, the principles of the popular brandk of the British constitution came into practical operation unalloyed by the feudal system. These principles have since been matur- ed into the full developement of the representa- tive system, and are now consolidated and con- firmed in the habits and manners of the people ; conferring a degree of freedom to mankind un- known in Europe, and securing to industry the re- • ward of its merit— peace and plenty. Hence the progress of population— of agriculture— of manu- factures—of the arts and sciences— and of civili- zation have been rapid beyond all former example. The contemplation of the subject is animating to the mind; it inspires confidence in the future destinies of the world ; and calls forth sentiments 4>f gratitude to the supreme Disposer of all events. The inhabitants of Britain behold in America a people sprung mostly from the same ancestors with themselves; they speak the same language; they have the same manners and habits ; and they 'are in a considerable degree governed by the same laws. Their surplus commodities, and their de- i :mJ 1^ !r^- PBBFACB. % f I mand for British manufactures, have for a long period induced an exchange highly favourable to Britain. From these circumstances, a native of Britain finds himself a^ home in America, and thou- sands of industrious families, who have met with an hospitable reception, and a happy asylum in the land, can bear ample testimony to the value of it. The two nations are indeed formed to be mutually beneficial to each other; and though Providence, for wise reasons no doubt, has allow- ed the connection to be cut for the present, yet it is to be hoped it will be again revived to mutual ad- vantage, for there is one link in the chain — the identity of language — which never can be dis- solved. To the inhabitants of other countries America is also important, as it holds out the right hand of fellowship to all nations, unincumbered by en- tangling alliances with any; and though many, who visit the country for commerce or permanent settlement, will necessarily, for a time, labour under some disadvantages, arising from a different language, and other local circumstances, yet they will find an hospitable reception, and an enjoy- ment of perfect freedom and security. When, in consequence of having formed a com- mercial connection in the United States, in the year 1806, it became necessary for me to visit that # ii PRBFACE. country, I had no intention of publishing my travels, nor did I think that my observations would have been sufficiently extensive or interest* ing to be laid before the public. But many cir^ cumstances have concurred to render them more important than I had originally imagined ; ahd a second journey to the country led to An investiga'- tion, the result of which I now consider worthy of pubUcation. The following brief review will il- lustrate my motives and design, and it is with much deference submitted to a candid public. In the year 1798 I made a voyage to the West Indies*, during which I laid the foundation of a series of studies on geography, astronomy, natural philosopl^, and chemistry, connected with navi- gation, and the theory of winds, tides, and cur- rents, in the Atlantic Ocean. My voyage to America afforded an ample opportunity for resum- ing these studies, which I did not fail to take ad- vantage of, and I accordingly kept a journal. After landing in America I continued my journal ; and circumstances having occurred which render- ed it necessary to make a more extended tour, and to reside longer in the country than I originally intended, I used every diligence in my power in : # H: ■*? PRBFACS* 1^ VU nOiaking observations, and committing them to writ- ing. My tour was rapid, but my mode of pro- curii^g inforniation was such as, I trust, will render even that part of my journal not uninteresting, p^ticularly to those engaged in commerce. Previous to leaving Britain, I had perused all the '^ Travels in America" to which I had access ; but the plan of none of them pleased me, and I found many of tbem to contain such effusions of ignorance and spleen, that I came to the resolu- tipn to discard the whole, and to take for the ^$19 of my information Arrowsmith's map, and M)orse^8 Gazetteer of the United States. With the«e I arrived in the country, and they were my ecmstant companions in my travels through it. When I arrived in a new state, I examined it in lihe map and gazetteer; and the information deriv- ed from them I confirmed or corrected by personal bbservation, and information from those to whom I hid access, I observed the like course with re- gard to every district, town, village, lake, or river, which I passed or saw; and having comn\itted the result to paper, in the shortest manner possible, I (^mpiled my journal from these notes at my feisur^* I^ this manner I travelled through part of Geoi^, South Cdrolina, New York, Rhode Iskmd, Massachussetts, Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, District of PREFACE. Columbia, Virginia and North Carolina ; so that I had occasion to see and make observations on all the Atlantic states, including the principal cities, rivers, bays, &c. on the eastern coast. ; Next year I returned to Britain, where I follow- ed up my plan of making memorandums, princi- pally by noticing the nature of the American trade, and the manufactures in Britain calculated for America. ^ *j The commercial pursuits in which I had been engaged having been interrupted, I returned to America in the year 1809, in order to re-organize the business, or to wind it up ; and, having oc- casion to travel extensively through the inferior 6f Georgia, I extended my remarks, ^md found van opinion forced upon me, that should the restrictions on commerce be of long dui^ation, America wovdd become a manufacturing country, and consequent- ly would be in a great measure independent o£ Europe. That opinioit received strength and con* $rmation duringaresidenpe,in New York in 1810, where I was fruitlessly employed in looking. out for ioercantile em|)loyment. , ,, In the early part of the year 1811, having observed a regency in Britjun without a change of oouncils, or the removal of the restrictions oa commerce, I considered that the commercial rela- tions between America and, Britain wovdd not bjc .'.'»'»', ■■ :i PREFACE. IX Speedily resumed, and considered it necessary to look out for other employment. In search of this I came to the resolution of making a tour into the interior of the country, and being assisted by some kind friends, I was enabled to procure such a stock of valuable information, that I now thought it would be of importance to collect materials with a view to the publication of my whole travels, anii to conduct my inquiries, in my proposed tour, ac- cordingly. ^ This tour was performed to my entire satisfac- tion, and the result of my inquiries appeared so important that the publication was determined on^ provided the plan met public apprpbation. With a view of ascertaining that, point, a prospectus was issued, and a subscription list promoted, the result of which has exceeded my most sanguine expecta- tions ; for though I was able to take the sense of but a small portion of the community compara- tively, I obtained a very large and most respecta- ble list of subscribers. Encouraged by this honourable patronage, I have endeavoured to improve upon my original plan, and have added a great variety of matter not contemplated in the outlines, that the work might embody a complete geography of the United States. This is the first attempt that has come under my observation to incorporate a geographical descrip- VOL. I. b M PBEVAOE. tion of a country in a journal of travels, and I hope it will not be* without its use to the public. That it might be as complete as possible, I have noticed even those states and territories that I did not travel through, selecting those parts of the narra- tive for their introduction that I thought would be most appropriate. In the description of the eastern states the population is given by the census of 1800, because that of 1810 was not taken when I travelled through them ; but the statistical table and census of the United States introduced into the work, present a view of the population to the latter period, and I have occasionally added notes at some of the, cities. The original design con- templated a pretty large appendix to the second volume ; but, in consequence of the plan adopted, a considerable part of the matter appropriated to it has been incorporated into different parts of the work, and the remainder has been mostly introdu* ced into the chapter entitled "United States." t As I have always considered books of travels to be very defective when unaccompanied by maps, I have spared no labour, nor expence, to have a good set of maps to illustrate this work. They have been drawn with great care from the best materials to which I could get access, aided by much local information; and the engraving has been executed by tlie first artists in Philadelphia. '»i ^ if? ■ ' PREFACE. 351 i> iHi The maps are eight in number, and at the rate at which similar engravings, are usually sold, they are worth more than two-thirds of the price to subscri- bers for the whole work. At the close of the second volume I have added an alphabetical index, which will serve in some respects the place of a gazet- teer. In short, no pains nor expence has been spareil to render the work worthy of public patronage ; and, with a view of making it acceptable to the whole public, I have avoided all notice of local politics, except sometimes a mere casual observa* tion, net calculated to reflect on any party. On the relations between this country and Britain I have been compelled to be more pointed. The late conduct of those who administer the aftairs of England has not been of a nature merely specula- tive. It has involved a moral principle, and af« fected the best interests of the human race. The conduct adopted towards the United States in* fiuenced my own proceedings in a very considera- ble degree. In conducdng my narrative, it was absolutely necessary to notice it; and I have done so agreeably to what I consider the rules of truth. Many of my readers may differ with me in opinion on this subject : to such I have merely to remark, that I have hazarded no opinion lightly, nor with- out due examination. My information has beea Xii PREFACK. drawn from the most correct sources, both in Britain and America. I have never been connect^* cd with any political party, and I am conscious of being free from any bias, but a sacred regard for truth and justice. Still, however, errors may have escaped me : I am open to conviction ; and if they are pointed out, it will give me sincere pleasure to oorrect them. To my numerous and very respectable subscri- bers, and those gentlemen who favoured me with information, I beg leave to return my most sincere thanks for their encouragement . and assistance ; and my thanks are due to the American public generally, for the kind attention with which I have been treated during my extensive travels through the country. On the other hand, I trust this work will be found not altogether unworthy of. public attention. Independent of the casual information collecte4 while I was engaged in other pursuits, it has beea the result of incessant labour, of both b6dy and mind, for nearly two years, in which I have had every aid that books, maps, charts, and verbal in- formation could give me. If it is found defective, I have no plea but want of capacity ; I have done my best. As the facts have been collected with great care, so they have been communicated with ^ strict adherence to truth, and with a view of pro- PBSFACB. m moting the best interests of mankind, by a sincere friend, who has no motive for deceiving them. With these observations I consign the work to the tribunal of the public, and I shall bow with sub- mission to their decree. JOHN MEUStt. Philadelphia^ October 1^^ \^\2. 1 it^ TABLE OF CONTENTS. VOLUME I. ■*if^^ •tf^j^,.i»^ It REFACE. Importance of books of travels* . .Importance of the United States. . .Motives and design of publication. . .Voyage to the West Indies and studies connected with it . . • Continued in a voyage to America . . . Mode of pro* curing information. . .Change of circumstances. . .Tour to the western coun- try. . . Explanation of the plan . . . Engravings . . . General remarics. INTRODUCTION, page 1. Description of Glasgow. . .Change of coun- cils in Britain...Probability of a lasting peace with America... Prepare to embark for that countiy. . .Advice to those about to undertake a sea voyage • • . Cabin passage . . . Single passengers, families . . . Steerage passage . • . Gene- ral reiparks to be attended to at sea. CHAPTER I. p. 9. Depart from Glasgow. . .Paisley. . .Extensive view. • • River Clyde . . . Greenock . . . Configuration of the country . . . Frequent rains on the west coast . . . Anecdote . . . Passengers . . . Sail from Greenock . . . Firth of Clyde... Arran...AilsaCrMg...MuU of Cantyre... Atlantic ocean. ..A fair wind ... A gale . . . Head winds . . . Bermudas . . . Gulph stream . . . American coast. . . Savannah river. CHAPTER II. p. 18. General remarks. . . Occupations at sea. . .Winds in the Atlantic ...Trade winds. ..Variable winds... Gulph stream. . .Banks of Newfoundland... Islands of ice... Courses across the Atlantic at different seasons. CHAPTER HI' p. 35. Reflections in Savannah . . .Description of the city ...Trade... Country in its vicinity... Articles of commerce... Exports and imports . . . Savannah river. CHAPTER IV. p. 29. Journey up the country... Rords...Craekg... An inn... Remains of a burnt negro... Sultry weather... Taverns... Domestic manufactures. . .Pine barrens. . .Remarks on health. . .Construction of cities • ..Draining... Effects of oxygen... A methodilt church... Reflections on camp meetings... Baptists... Wayqpborough... Mill* and machineiy... Ar- rive at Louisville. XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. p. 39. Deicription of Loidsvittet • .A fever. . .An expeii- incnt... Kindness of Dr. Powell... SUte-houie... New purchaie... Lottery of public lands... Reflections thereon... Anniversary of independence... A toast . . . American character . . . Leave Louisville . . . Richmond springs ... A poet. . .Set out for Augusta. CHAPTER VL p. 47. Augusta. . .Country round it. . .Cross Savannah r!* ver. . .North Carolina. . .Hospitality of the planters. . . A country store. . .Re- cross Savannah river. . .Signs of a storm. . .Remarkable electric spark*. .Ar* rive in Savannah. . .Prepare to go to New York. CHAPTER VII. p. 52. Passage to New York... A fair wind...Gulph stream. . . A severe gale. . .A calm. . .Clear weather. . .High lands of Never- sink . . . Sandy Hook . • . Long Island . . . Statcn Island . . . Narrows . . . Quarantine ground ... Bay and islands . . . Brookl)?! . . . New York. « CHAPTER VIII. p. 57. ' Description of New York. . .Public buildings. .<: Markets. . .Schools. . .Trade. . . Police . . . Pnlitim. . . Press. . . Parties. . •Tho- mas Paine. . .Yellow fever. . .Table of the weather. CHAPTER IX. p. 67. Journey to the New England states... East river ...Hell>gate...Long Island sound... EUegant views... A courtship. . .Race . . .Narraganset bay. . .Newport. . .Fine views. . .Beautiful female. . .Another courtship. . .Providence. . .Geographical arrangement. CHAPTER X. p. 76. Rhode Island. . .Situation. . .Extent . . , Area. . tjf face of the country. . .Minerals. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Settlement and progrest . . . Civil divisions and population . . . Improvements . . . Towns . . . Roads. . • Bridges. . .Agriculture and produce. . .Manufactures. . .Commerce. . .State of society ... Government. M CHAPTER XL p. 80. A disappointment. . .Effects of it. . .Retaliation. . . Leave Providence. . .Rule for swearmg. . .Patucket river. . .Cotttm manufiic. tures. . .Reflections and calculations on the cotton trade. . .Massachuaetts. • . Dedham . . . Beautiful prospects . . . Boston neck . . . Boston. CHAPTER XII. p. 89. Discription of Boston . . . Public buildings . . . Mar- kets . . . Commerce . . . Manufactures . . . Banks . . . Societies . . . Character of the inhabitants. . .State-house. . .Fine view. . .Bridges. . .Jaunt to Salem. . .Char- lestown. . .Bunker's hill. . .Mystic river. . .Swamp and floating bridge. . .Lynn ...Expensive turnpike.^. Salem... Wharves and shipping... Reflections... Return to- Boston. . ,:*v>i ;.,^. ..,_,.<,) i^i,, , _, ■(f^rc CHAPTER XIII. p. 97. NewHampshire. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area ...Face of the country... Mountains... Lakes... Rivers... Minerals... Soil . . . Climate . . . Settlement and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . ,^ Improvements... Towns... Roads... Bridges... Agriculture and produce... Manufactures. . .Commerce*. .SUte of society. . .Government CHAPTER XIV. p. 102. Vermokt.,. Situation . . .Extent. . .Area... Face of tlie country. . .Mwmtains. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .goU. . .CMmatc. , ., ov B kM: aOKTBNTS. XVU '4 SttUamtnt and profm** • •Civil dli^ilona and po|mUtion. . .Improvements. . . Towns • • • Agiicuhiire Mid produoe . . • Maoufactures . . . Commeree . . . State of society .. . Government CH A PTKR XV. p. 106. Leave Boston . . . Mail sUf e . . . Company. . • Cam* bridge . . . General remarlu • « • Weston . . . Beautiful eountry girl . . . Worcester . . . Brookfteld. . .Western. . . A contrast. < . Chearftil company. . . Handsome girls. . .Jealousy. . .Springfield. .. Connecticut river. . .Suffield. CHAPTER XVI. p. 113. Massaohvsbtts... Situation... Extent... Area • • .Face of the country. . .Waters. . .Minerals. . .Soil and agriculture. . .Cli* mate. * .Settlement and progress. . .Ciril divisions and population. . .Improve- ments . . . Towns . . . Roads . . . Bridges . . . Manufactures . . . Commerce . . . State of society. . .Religion. . .Literature. . .Education. . .Government. . .District ov Maine. . .Settlement. ..Population. . .Improvements. . .Towns* . .Soil. . . Commerce. .« State of society. . .Climate. CHAPTER XVIL p. lift. Windsor. . .Kartfbrd. ..Additional company. . . Odd notions. . .Handsome giris. . .Fruit. . . Wallingfi>rd. . .Church built by the produce of onions. ..Blooming girls. . .Elegant country. . .Fine views. . .New* luven . . . MiUford . . . Housatonic river . . • Stamford. CHAPTER XVIIL p. 123. Cowvsoticut. . .Situation. . .Extent. . .Area • . .Face of the country. . .Hills.. .Rivers. . .Minerab. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Set. tlement and progress... Civil divisions and population... Improvements... Towns . . . Roads . . . Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures . . . Commeroe . . . State of society . . . Education . . . Government. CHAPTER XIX. p. 13& Yankee dialect. . .Horsenttk. . . Anecdote. . .Rye • . .York Island. . .New York. . .Thomas Pune. . . An essay. CHAPTER XX.p. 133. New Yokx. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area. . .Face of the country^ ». Mountains. . .Lakes. . .Rivers. . .Minerals.. .Springs. . .Soil ft. Climate... Settlement and progress... Civil divisions and population... Improvements. . .Cities, towns, and villages. . .Roads. . .Bridges. . .Canals. . . Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures . . . Commerce . . . State of society . . . Government . . . State funds. CHAPTER XXI. p. 139. Leave New York. . .Intelligence of the stage drivers. • .Jersey. . .Bergen. . . A swamp. . .Hackensack river. . .Passaic river . . .Newark. . .Elizabethtown. . . Woodbridge . . . Rariton river. . .Brunswick . • . Kingston « . . Princeton ... A commencement ... Ball .. . Music and dancing ...Trenton. CHAPTER XXII. p. 144 Nxw Jxksxt. . .Situation. . .Extent. . .Area.. . Face of the country . . . Minerals . » . Soil . . . Cliiiate . . . Settlement and progress . . .Ciril divisions and population . . . Improfements . . . Towns. . .Roads. . ^ Bridges y. .Projected canal... Agriculture and produce. ..Manufactures... Commerce . . .Edutation. . .Govwnment. VOL.1. C ' ii t xviii COHTBHTB. CHAPTER XXIIX. ^ U7. Trenton bridge. . .DeUware riter. . .ReiideiiM of general Moreau. . .Reilectiont. . .America compared with Europe. . .Bria- tol . . . Frankford . . . Philadelphia. ^ CHAPTER XXIV. p. 150. Detcription of Philadelphia. . .Plan. . .Popula- tion. . . Buildinga . . . Public buildingi . . . State-house . . . Markets . . . Manufac- tures... Trade t.. State of society... Education... Societies... Police... Re- marks thereon. CHAPTER XXV. p. 156. Floating Bridge. . . WaUr.works. . .Remarka on fUtration . . . Sute ■ prison . . . Library . . . Remarka on libraries . . . Feale's museum . . .Schuylkill bridge. . .Jaunt to the country. . .A flax spinning>miU. . .Falla of Schuylkill... Politics. CHAPTER XXVI. p. 168. PaiiiriYLVAiriA. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area . . . Face of the country* • . Mountains . . . Rivers . . . Minerals . . . SoU . . . Clintailn . . .Settlement and prog^sa. . .Civil divisions and population. . .Improvements ...Cities and towns... Roads... Bridges... Canals... Agricidture and pro- duce . . . Manufactures . * » Commerce . , . State of society . . . Government CHAPTER XXVII. p. 177. Land and water stages. . .Delaware river. . . Country on its banks . . . Newcastle . . . Low marshy landa. CHAPTER XXVIII. p. 179. Delawaab. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area . . .Face of tbto country. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Settlraient and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . . Improvements . • . Towns . . • Agriculture and produce . . . Manufacturea . * . Commerce . . . Schools . . . Consti- tution and government. CHAPTER XXIX. p. 182. Elk river. . . Chesapeake bay. . ^Extensive view . . .Susquehannah river. . .Arrive at Baltimore. . .Numeroua company. . .Meet some old fellow-travellers. . .Market. . .Madame Jerome Bonaparte and child . . .Cofiee«house . . . Library. . . Ship-yards . . . Agreeable company. . . Descrip- tion of Baltimore . . . Public buildings . . . Mam^actures . . . Commerce . . . Banka ...Police. CHAPTER XXX. p. 187. Mahtl aw . . . Situation . . . Extent . . . Area* . . Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Chesapeake bay. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . . Soil . . . CUinate . • . Settlement and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . . Improvements... Cities and towns... Agriculture and produce... Manufao- tures . f . Commerce ... Education ... Government. CHAPTER XXXI. p. ^93. Leave Baltimore . . . Patapsco creek. . ^BIa- densburg. . .Washington. . .Capitol. . .Capitol bill. . .Superb view. CHAPTER XXXIL p. 195. Washington. . .Treasury. . .Post4>ffie«. . .Ca- pitol. . . Barracks . . . Remarks on the army , . . Navy-yard. . . Geo^town. . .Po- tomac river. . .Road lud out by congress. CHAPTER XXXIU. p. 201. \yait on Mr. Jefierson. . .Conveifation. . . Notice of American coipmercial cities.. t Climate and season... Epid«mi« sick ...1 OONTIMTt. XlX 1^ :'4 •'K ■iekneMf.Ytlkfw ftvAr. . *PalM's eMay...IUMdi...InUnMl Inpronmcnti • . . Mwiufuturet . • . ScntimtnU r«UtiT« to Mr. Fox. CHAPTER XXXIV. p. 307. Diitriot or Colvmbia. . .Bitmit. . .Sitiu* tion. . .Face of the country i « .8<^; . iCUmate. • .Diyltiona. .* Improvement** . . Description of Wash i n . to n C ity . . . Plen . . . Buildings. . . Public buildings . . . Markets . . « Manufactures . . . )»utc of society . • . Police . . . General remark* on British and French iii4ucnce . . . Pr babUity of an amicable adjustment of the differences with Britain. . . AleMitdha. CHAPTER XXXV. p. 215. Leave Alexandria . . . OcCOquhan creek. . . Agreeable company. . . A repuhlic . . .Songs and stories. . .Dumfries. « .Frede- ricksburg. . . Rappahannock river . . . Mattapony river . . . Ptfliunky river . . . York river... York i.* Hanover court*house... Richmond.. » James river. ..Naviga- tion. . .Canal. . . Appamattox river. . . Petersburg. . . Agreeable company. . * Nottaway rhrer.^.Meherrin river. CHAPTER XXXVI. p. 336. Viroinia . . .Jefferson's Nntes. . .Bounda- ries... Extent... Area... Face of the country... Mountains... Rivers.. .Pas- sage of the Potomac through the Mountains • . . Cascades . . . Caves . . « Bloving cave . . . Natural bridge . . . Minerals . . . Soil . . i Climate . . . Settlement and pro- gress... Civil divisions and population... Towns... Roads... Navigation... Architecture . . . Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures « . . Commerce . . . State of society. . .Colleges. . .Education. . .Rellf^on. . .Government . . . Ex- tracts from Mr^ Jefferson's Notes. . .On government. . .On the importation of foreigners ... On manufactures, agriculture, and commerce. CHAPTER XXXvil. p. 353. Roanoke river. . . Warrenton. . iTar river. . . Nuse river . . . Raleigh . . . Dismal country . . . Black river . . . Cape Fear . . . Fa- jretteville . . . Lumberton ... An accident . . • Swim the horses and stages CHAPTER XXXVIli. p. 359. North Caroli va. . .Situation. . .Extent . . . Area. . .Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Rivers. . • Minersls. . ^Soil. . . climate... Settlement and progress... Civil dinsions and population... Im- provements. . .Towns. . .Roads. . .Ag^culture and produce « . . Manufactures and c6mmeree . . . State of society . . . Gk>vemment ^ CHAPTER XXXiX. p. 364. Flat country . . . 6ad roads . . . Methodist church . . . Swimming creek . . . Little Pedee river. . . AltercaUon with the dri- ver... Reedy creek... Maple «wamp... Great Pedee river ...A breakfast... Lynche*s creek. . .Blackmingo creek. . .Wilton. . . An agreeable Irishman* . . Fever and ague * . . A dinner . . . Black river ... An old friend . . . Georgetown . . • Culture of rice ... A causevray . . . Santee river^ . .View of the Atlantic ocean . . . Arrive at Oharleston. CHAPTER XL. p. 373- A- politician ... A fever . . . Sudden change of weather. . .Description of Charleston. CHAPTER XLI. p. 37U South C aroliha . . . Situation . . . Extent. . . Area. . .Face of the country. . .Hills. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .SoU. . .Climate XX CONTEKT8. Settlement and pngna*, . . Civil divitions uid'pi)|Hilctkm. . iliiipiibremcntf. i * Towns . . . Agriculuire and prodttoe . . . Manufactures . . . Comneree . . . State of «Dciety. . .Education. ..GoveRimcnt. CHAPTER XUi. p 385. Pataajpe to Savaimtb by •ea...Tybe« light- iioase. . .Savannah.. .Death and character of a fUend. . .Hard labour. ..Flat- tering prospects . . r A ne w connection . . . Prepare to embarit (br Europe. CHAPTER XLIII. p. 288. Gborgia. . .Situation . . . Extent. . . Are*. . i Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Rivers. . .Soil and Climate. . .Settlement; and progress . . . Civil divisions and population . . . Towns, . . Agriculture and produce^.... Education... Reflections on that subjects.. Religion... Govwh- inent. CHAPTER XLIV. p. 394. Embarlc for Europe . . . Felklw passengers. • . Detained in the river. ..A fine breeze. ..Fast sailing. .. A eloop of war. ..A frigate . . .Sea diversions . . . Cape Clear. . . An Irish inlot boatw . .C6ve of Cork ...TuBeur...Skerries4ig^t... Liverpool pilot boat... Head winds... A gale '. » . Royle lake. . . A cavalcade ... An ignorant gidde . . . Arrive in Liverpool, c CHAPTER XLV. p. 300. Change of counc'ds in Britain . . .Probable effect Fox*s bifth^day... Toasts... Lord Melville... Death of sir John Moo:*e * . . Cold weather. . . Return to Glasgfaw. < jj^Kt CHAPTER LL p. 338. Jounney to Ireland... KilBSfamockt.. Ayr... Dis- mal night . . .Girvaa . . . Loch Ryan . . . Port Patrick. . . VioleHt weather . . . Head winds. . .A gale. . .Return to|Kirt. . . A fairlrind.. .IreJimd. . .Belfast. . .Hills- borough... BaMfbridfe...Duikdlrum bay. ..A shipwreck •..Ne wry... A de- bifte. * .Bainbridge...^ Dromore. . .HilUboroug^. . . Lislbum:. a sta f 1 surh M pers( ■^ f self, I 'i fit w ■ acco smal if y( Si dra\^ m boar ^ of pj "S r w and •5W INTRODUCTION. Ill mock, a con- ictures ness in gow, I imence ied the as well be con- during ^mbar^- i change d of the utesman, s of Mr. at every two go* just and a lasting ^at and ked in it selecting in which particu- •etumed, shed my srsQn, to is for tlic i^rounded , andtht- result of a good deal of experience, may be useful to others. I have summed them up under die title of « fe '■V ^1 Advice to those about to undertake a Sea Voyage* When you intend to take a long voyage^ endeavour to have your whole business transacted, so as you may have a few days to spend with your friends, and to attend to the little necessaries that may be requisite on the voyage, previous to your departure. It is not always in a person's power to choose a captain, although a good deal of the comfort of the passage de. pends upon this choice. The chief requisites are, that he be a good seaman ; attentive, careful, and active in the sf management of his vessel ; and of these circumstances, and indeed all others relative to the passage, you must sa- tisfy yourself before setting out, for there is no use in making complaints at sea. It is still more difficult to make choice of sociable fellow-passengers. A ship is like a stage-coach, it must accommodate all comers ; stnd ohe surly fellow may molest a whole ship's company. But a person, by having resources of his own,* may make him^-. \ self, in a great measure, independent of other people, and it will be well, before going on board, to take measures to f accomplish that desirable object. For this purpose, a small library of books will be found very entertaining, and if you have any turn for the study of mathematics and drawing, you will have a good opportunity to practise on board ; and a case of mathematical instruments, and a box of paints will be necessary. The greater part of the carrying trade between Britain and America is performed in American vessels, and a cabin ■^5 IV UH'RODUCTIOK. passage in one of these vessels is generally very agreeable. The expence, including every thing, is from 30 to 40 guineas. There are various modes of laying in provisions. One is for the captain to provide everything; another is to provide every thing, except liquors ; and a third is for the passengers to furnish every thing, at their joint ex- pence. If the captam be a judicious man, there will ge- nerally be a good supply, in eitlier case. But it may not be amiss, for those who can aflbrd it, to have a private assortment of good tea and cordials; should they not have occfision to use tliem themselves, they may have an op- poiitunity of serving some poor steerage passenger. There is generally a medicine chest on board, but it is sometimes not in very good order ; and it will be advisa- ble to have a few simple medicines of your own, such as rhubarb, cream of tai*tar, and Peruvian bark ; and a few dozens of spda water will be fpund a very agreeable be- verage. When a family undertake a sea voyage, they have ge- nerally their own servant; and if they are numerous, they-, will ^d it most comfortable and most economical to en- gage a state-room, and lay in their own stores. For the information of such, I shall here subjoin a list of the most essential articles. » They are entitled to the ship's provisions ; biscuit, salt beef, pork, peas, &c. — In addition, they will require meal, • barley, Hour, potatoes, pigs, ducks, fowls, porter, wine, and spirits. Beef, mutton, and loaf bread will keep fresh eight or ten days at sea, and it should be always laid in, ^ as it proves not only a considerable saving to the fresh stock, but is generally more grateful to the stomach at tjwt period thJin any other food. .,, itj- :% pro^ con sug cess tofi to r whi( vide arc ; man |wou pass tlie agai A shaU A get bec£ and, ston ness food dayj be a or M go I oft] exer t^r \ i'il INTRODUCTION. eeable. to 40 isions. >ther is 1 is for int ex- vill ge- lay not private othave an op- ,vu »ut it is advisa- siich as d a few ible be- ave gC: is, they I to en- Tor the ke most lit, salt emeal, wine, !p fresh laid in, , e fresh lach at m The expence of a steerage passage is about twelve gui- neas, and the passengers are entitled to the whole ship's provisions before enumerated; but to make themselves comfortable, it will be proper to add a little stock of tea, sugar, liquors, barley, and oat meal. It is generally ne- cessary, both in the cabin and steerage, for th^ passengers ). to furnish their own bedding. I may take occasion here § to remark, that this practice is an improper one. Vessels which are calculated to carry passengers, should be pro- I vided with bedding, particularly in the cabin births. They 1 arc furnished at no great expence, and one set would serve ^ many passages, so that the expence, during one passage, % would be trifling : whereas, t>y the present practice, each ' ipassenger is subjected to a considerable expence, besides ^i^ie trouble of purchasing his bedding, and of selling it again at the close of the passage. » A few general remarks, to be attended to while at sea, shall conclude this article. A short time after setting sail, the passengers generally get sea sick. This complaint, though lightly esteemed, because not dangerous, is often very severe while it lasts, and, if treated improperly, it may cause a relaxation of the ^ stomach, that will be very troublesome. While the sick- p ness continues, people have an aversion to all kinds of - food and drink. Many abstain from both, three or four days. This is a bad plan. The stomach should never be allowed to get entirely empty. A little chicken broth or water gruel should be freely used ; and people should go upon deck as soon as possible. Breathing the foul air of the cabin or steerage promotes the disease ; whereas exercise and free air on deck relieve it. A little soda wa- t^r will at this time be very exhilarating ; and as soon as 'm VI INTilODUOTrOK. the stomach is so far cleansed as to keep free from netch- ing, a little Peruvian bark will be very beneficial as a restorative. Care should be taken to guard against cos- tiveness, a very troublesome complaint at sea. Attention to diet and exercise will often prevent it ; but where that fails, a little laxative medicine, such as rhubarb, cream of tartar, or castor oil, should be resorted to. When the weather is good, people should rise early. The air of the cabin is not only affected by the respira- tion of th& passengers, but is often contaminated by the bilge water ; wliile the sea air on deck is always pure and healthy. The breakfast hour at sea is 8 o'clock, dinner 1, and supper 6 or 7. It is a general rule amongst the pas^ngers, to have themselves washed and dressed before' sitting down to breakfast. Betwixt breakfast ?^iid <*iriner,' the time may be profitably employed in walking,- reading,* drawing, &c. ; and such as have a taste for navigation will have a good opportunity for practical improvement, as they can have access to the log-look ; and the captain and mates are generally very obliging, in lending their na- vigation books and instruments to those who wish them. ^ w Temperance at table is necessary every where, and es^ pecially at sea, where the exercise is necessarily limited^' Where wine is used, three or four glasses will generally be found more beneficial than a larger quantity; and peo- ple ought, on no account, to indulge themselves at the table a whole afternoon, though it is frequently done. It is much better to take exercise in the open £ur on deck, v^) In the evening, the company frequently amuse them- selves at cards, backgammon, &c. ; these, when resorted to for amusement only, are rational and innocent enough; but when the play is for money, they ought to be avoided. I INTRODUCTION. vii n netch- al as a ist cos- ttention lere that ream of »t e early, respira- i by the ure and dinner igst the I before <*5riner, wading,' k^igation irement, captain ^eir na- them, md es" imitedl jnerally id peo- at the tie. It them- esorted lough; b^oidedt I may add^ that, generally speaking, peo]/1e^ hapf jiess is very much in their own power. A suavity of mai. tiers, and an obligingly civil deportment, is calculated to secure the esteem of mankind ; and when things are not exactly as we would wish them to be, it will add to our own comfort to take them as we find them. \'j '.'I'ir :'^3 VOL. i. ( tr' ■'TwvsunJKavwn. ,- CHART of tl\e O e E A luintoiixJi cuf TRAVELS -I. IN THE UNITED STATES, &c. CHAPTER I. GlasgffWr^Qreenofk, — Savannah* \ Laving shipped my goods on boaard the ^iip WaiV captain Hk^ley, bound from Gieei)ock to Sa« ^anm^, I set out from Glasgow £or Greenock by the .stage :oach, on' Saturday, the 8th of March) 1806. There me two roads from Glagow to Greenock, the one direct, by [Renfrew, the other by Paisley. The stage took the letter i route, which lies through a level, weU-cultivated country^ id pretty fertile, to Pai^y. Paisley is 7 miles distant from Glagow, and b an irre^ ilarly built town, the streets mosdy narrow, and not very [clean. It contains upwards of 30,000 inhabitants $ an^ [the principal manufactures are fancy imislins and threads^ silks and gauzes. The peqile are veiy industrioufl^ 9pA there is moie el^;ance and tastediqilayed in the ^kncjr goods of th£^ town than in any other that I have seer^ From Paisley towards Greenod^^ the countiy continues level for two miles, and then the road rises for about fivtf mUes, with a gradual ascent, to Bishoptown, wlieie; tiier^ is a very fine view* To the west is a full view of this river Clyde, which expands to die breadth of seven mitei^ VOL. i. B Ipm. 4ti#' 10 TRAVELS IN 1 having Greet)iOck and Port Glasgow. o^.it$ left, bai^, and its borders studded with elegant villas, surrounded by- well cultivated fields and plantations. To the north is Dunbarton, an irregularly built litde town, at the mouth of the river Leven, and having considerable manufactures of glass. Near this stands Dunbarton castle, well known in ancient stoiy, on a singularly insulated rock, the evi- dent effect of some great eruption of the earth. . To the north is the beautiful river I^even, celebrated in verse by Smollett, who was born on its pleasant banks, two miles A above Dunbarton. ., The . banks of the river are, elegantly adorned with villas and cultivated fields, and there is more machinery upon it than any river in the west of Scotland. This little river is the outlet of Loch Lomond,, a lake singularly beautiful and romantic, on the east side of which stands Ben Lomond, one of the highest mountains in Scotland ; and the view is terminated to the north and west by mountains innumerable, the tops of which are ge- nerally lost in the clouds. y From the summit of the eminence where this view is seen, the road proceeds by a winding descent to. the banks of the river, and keeps close along shore for five miles to Port Glasgow, a small town containing about 3000 people. It was intended to be a port to Glasgow, as its name im- plies, and has a little shipping trade ; but it is altogether eclipsed by Greenock, which possesses superior advanta- ges as- a port. Three miles beyond this is Greenock, and on reaching it, I found that the vessel would not sail for several days.,. .^> JpR££iroc& is an irregularly built town, containing about 18,000 inhabitants, land enjoys a very large portion of the commerce of the west of Scotland, which employs , *^^- SCOTLAND. 11 an extensive mercantile capital. Besides th^f^d&sting and Irish trade, of which it has a large share, it employs nu- merous shipping to Canada, to the We^t Indies, and to the continent of Europe ; and it is the seat of nearly the whole of the American trade with Scotland. There are three or four vessels in the New York, and as many in the Charleston trade ; besides occasional vessels for Boston/ Savannah, Norfolk, &c. This trade is wholly carried on in American vessels; and they generally perform two voyages in the year. The country round Greenock has a singular and even romantic appearance. The Clyde is here seven miles broad ; but a few miles below, it makes a sudden bend to the southward, and contracts to the breadth of twomilts. On the opposite side is Hellens- burg, and two miles below, on tins ^de, is Gourock, which are celebrated watering-places, and much frequented by the citizens of Glasgow in the summer season; and on the west is situated Roseneath, a seat of the duke of Ar- gyle. It was lately burnt down, but is now rebuilt in an elegant style, and commands a fine view of the Firth and ks shipping. The whole country found rises into hig^ lands, and the yiew lis terminated to the north and west by Idty mountains. '\ ' ■■>r From tins configuration of the country, bonnectsd with, the winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, 'we may account for the fi^uent rains with Which this place, and' indeed the greater part of the West coast of Scodand, is^ inundated. The wind blows Irom the sc^th-west for eight or nine months in the year, and is parj^eularly prevalent in the winter season. In its course fi^m the warm latitudes, over the vast expanse of water in the Atlantic Oca;u, it is highly impregnated -with yi^ur; and, arriving on the ir TBAttLi IH high lands on the wesi of Scotland^ it ia suddenly conw densed, and falls down in ton«nts of rain. From'these circumstances^ the winters are mild ahd rainy. There is- comparatively little snow, and it never lies long ; but it has been frequently observed to rain for forty 4wo days successively. I cannot better illustrate this, ^lan by re- lating an anecdote of an English traveller, and a wsuter at one of the public inns* The traveller had arrived theii^ for the first time. On the morrow, he intended to trans^ act his business, but was prevented by the rain; and sd successively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the^ waiter, " What; my fed^" says he, "does it alwdyk raitt here?" « Q na," ^^ys the Waiier, " it sothetimes snAWS;'** >ft No material occurrence happened during my stay ftt* GHeenocfc, and' I went on board the Wairington, on We**'^ itesday, the 12th of Mareh, A Mr. BaBard, of Bost^f « was my fellow-p^idsetiger ih the cal^ ; and a Mr* Millet^ and, a Mr. M'Kiehai^ were passengers in the steerages We set sail at 3 o'dock in the nftemoon^ aceompmied by the Factor, Caldwelly of New Yofkt but the l^^ind wa»^ ligh^ and we made litde progreiisJ Bdlii tfa^ese yes6di» Were very fast sailers^ and^ esschetd eonddf^sfeble intei^ which would sjul best. Among others^ I had a SrtjaH b0t- dbpendiikg on the. sUcoess. of our vbsset By dint of tow- i ing^ \ve had gbt a^ little aliead of ttve Factor, and weref^ tiraoght to and boahied by die crew Oif the teiid^, which was at the Tail c^ the Bmk, i^anui^aiseareh ^ Bf^shf setoien, at^ cohducteH theth^ve^ with all the inisoleiiefr of- sff^itrary po^t^ r but att W;^ :^)Und c€»Te£Md we wtere Sttfeed to di^)aim ^^ ^^i r Ih th6 mean Mme/ a sm^ breeze havlrfg sfirung up, th€' Fajctpf^ feeling H fimytestAe'tip^iti^us vcvy fast, titelt >'■• teotLAKtt* li Jy con- rn'these rhere is but it ivo dayis I by re- ivaiter at ed thei* to trans^ and sb iting the fdffi rain ^ stay ifii Ml Wed-* Bost?r4ii n mm ragei mpanied iriiid was' ^ yefifiek^ * int£i^iM maltbei of tow- id ivertf V which tsotehce a»d we* ing up, the wind dut of our sails, and fairly pataed us, to the. great joy of the one ship^s company> and the mortification of the c^r. We felt the breeze in our turn, and kept right astern of the Factor fifteen miles, to the-Cumbraes, where she hove to, to discharge the pilot, and we passed her ; and she again passed us, while we were discharging our8» Five miles below Greenock is the Ctough light-house, where the river contracts) and makes the sudden bend to the south before noticed ; a little beyond which it spreads out into a spacious firtii, and embosoms several islands, the chief of which ttte Arran^ Bute, and the Cumbraes* It is bounded with high lands on both sides, and the is^ds are generally rugged and Idly. Aitan, in particular, rises into very high mountains. The channel is very safe, aad is navigable, at aH seasons, for vessels of any burden. It was dark when we discharged the pilot, and I retired to rest When J[ rose in die morning, I found we had passed the island of Arran, and were abreast of that singu- larly insulated rock, in the middle of the channel, cele- brated in song by the fiivoimte Scottish baxdyBums-^ yi ■!i> " Meg was deaf as jiiUa Craig.** Htfe w^ hii a 'Very e)tten«ive view of the Scottish and Iri^ coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead. The WHid continued light and variable, so that we did not get out of due channel until the afternoon, when we passed the MuH <^ Gantyre^ soon after which we passed Stora inland; and on the morning off die 14th, we found ourselves in the Adantic Ocean, and had a most extensive view of the notth^wtest coast of Ireland, and the Western SetMlandi In the afternoon, we were dt>reast of . *«?: , This breeze CQntmued, wafting us akoig at the rate of nine or .ten miles anJiour, unti) the aftemcion of the 2Qth, when we were to the westward of the Western Iskinds, and congratulating ourselves on the prospect of a speedy p^ssagc-^Qut, lo la suddqi reverse took piaffe* The wind, wliuch was blowing froijfi-the southrcast, incrdased 4 into a most furious; gsile, a^d the slup was brought frT}m top-gakl)aQt, and studding s^i to foresail and dose-reefed main top-sail. The gale infproised, the ship laboured hard, and shipped a gre;Gt many 2;eavy seas ; but at 1 o'clock, on the morning of $he ^Ist, it lulled into a perfect calm. It was now that we felt the most disagreeable effects of the gale; for the sea had risen mountains high, and \the ^ 'ffl VI '9 t< .'9 e 'f^^^^l tl H THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. it ire, and, ;, I com- ing for a [ Colum- lied with occasion- >uring all she was ;eze from he Factor id how a We soon md finally ;reat mor- acks, but ursemore el during h' -{If' ship, having no sail to steady her, partook of the motion of every wave, and rolled so sharp, that she threatened to toss her masts overboard. This state of things was, how- ever, of short duration. At 2 o'clock, the wind shifted to the north-west, blowing most furiously, till about sunrise^ when it became a littie more moderate, and we made sail; although the cross tumbling sea, occasioned by the con- trary gales, made our sailing intolerably uneasy. We had now a series of head winds, and disagreeable weather, whidi will be best described by giving an extract from my sea journal. March 32. First part, strong gales and clear weather. Middle and latter part, strong gales, with rain and Kail, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. «^ ' • 23. Strong gales and tiiick weather all tiiese twenty-foinr hours, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. At' 9 o'clock in the evening, the ship was struck with a very heavy sea, which carried a^vay the bulwarics, and split the starboard plank sheer nearly the whole length of the main deck, washed the cambouse-house out of its place, and nearly carried the cabin-boy overboard. At 12 o'clock at night, shipped anotlier very heavy sea. 24. Commences with strong gales and a heavy sea. Middle part more moderate, but a heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. Latter part moderate, and all hands em- ployed in repairing the damages of the gale, 25. First part, fresh breezes and clear. Middle, tre- mendous squalls. Latter part, Hght airs, inclining to a calm. 26. First part, light winds. Middle and latter part, fresh breezes, and cloudy. M ■m. 16 TRATBL8 ON 27. First part, fresh breezes, and thick hazy weather. Middle part, the breeze increased to a most tremendous ^e, and at 11 o'clock at night, the ship was struck with such a sea, as made her quiver to her centre. My fellow- passenger was thrown out of his birth with the violence of the shock, and the cabin was nearly filled with water. : There was no making sail in this weather, and the ship was hove to. Latter part, very strong gales, with furious squalls, a very heavy sea running, and the ship leaking much in her upper works. This, and those of the 21st and 23d, were the only se- iVere gales we encountered, but we had a series of head » winds, gales, and squalls, with occasional showers of rain, hail, ami snow, till fhe 22d of April, when I find the fol- lowing remarks in my Journal : ** Being now out forty<^onc days, and little more than two-thirds of the passage, the "Wind right against us, and no appearance of shifting, we apprehend a long passage, and the ship's company are put on short allo\vance of water. I am much afiraid oiu* goods will be too late for the Savannah market." The headwinds continued, but we had more moderate 'Weather, though occasional gales, till the 26th, when we 'Spoke a sloop out two days fh»n Bermuda. Being now near diese Utile islands, I may step out of my course to describe them, though I did not see them. Theyare four in number, and were discovered by John Bermudas, a Spaniard, in 1527; but the Spaniards ne- glecting them, they weiie again discovered by Sir Geoi^ • Sommers, who was shipwrecked on them in. 1609. Of l^tese islands, the chief is St. George, having a dapital of the same name, consisting of about 500 houses, built of sof^ free^stone. St« George contains about 3000 inhabi- THE ATLAHTIC OCEAH. »7 weather. 1 mendous ' Lick with ':' Y fellow- i olence of h water. '■ the slup ^ K furious ) leaking ; only se- 4 s of head \ ■8 (^ rain, 5 dthefoi- forty»one isage, the fdng, we ly are put iiir goods moderate when we iing now course to by John rds ne- Geoi^ i09. Of ipitsdof buflt of inhabi- iants, and the whole islands perhaps about 9000, of whoiti nearly two-thirds are slaves. The people are chiefly occu- pied in building small craft, with which they trade .to Ca- nada and the West Indies; and they are said to be veiy •Xpert at the business of privateering. The civil govern- ment is vested in a governor, council, and general assen»- bly. The religion is that of the ohurch of England, and a native of Perth, in ScotUlid, is minister. The head winds sdll continued, but the weather was moderate ; and after crossing the gulph stream, we made the land on the 7th of May, supposed to be cape Look- out, on the coast of North Carolina. But the head winds still continued, and we were (to use a sea phrase) januned in betwixt the gulph stream and the coast, so that we could make no progress whatever till the 10th, when, to our great joy, we got a fair wind, which wafted us briskly along, and we made Tybee Light-house early on the morning of the 12th of May, after a turbulent, disagreeable passage of 61 days. The breeze continuing favourable, we soon approached the bar, where, having got a pilot, we waited half an houe for the tide, and then made sail up Savannah river; which I found a perfect contrast to the Clyde, the banks being tow and muddy, and the country round a perfect level. In our passage up we saw a good many fishes and alliga- tors ; which last are fiightful-looking animals, but they are by no means so dangerous as generally represented. At Q o'clodL we passed a bend in the river called Four Mile Point, and at 3 came to anchor at Five Fathom Hole; where having dined on board, for the last time, we set out in the small boat for Savannah, which we i:eached at 5 o'clock. vox. J. Ifi ♦? TRATBLt OK CHAPTER n. '?srT||Cl:!4J'»^a(Wlf t* ^1 General Remarks. 1 HE most material circumstances which happened on board, are recorded in the foregoing chapter; but the pas- sage may admit of the following general remarks. The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of 318 tbns burden, remarkably handsome and well found, aiid a veiy fast sailer: but her cargo was light, and all at the bottom, so that she was not well trimmed for sea; and her motion Vi'as shaip, and intolerably uneasy. '' Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a snlor on board of this same vessel, and raised himself by his own merit to the rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge did not seem to be great, but he was an excellent seaman^ and very careful in die management of the vesid. ^' He was provided with- an excellent mate,' in Mr. Ar- nold; who to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a COIitect knowledge of the theory and practice of navigation, alid sciences connected widi it ; he wns moreover a very agreeable, intelligent man, and I received much information l^6m his remarks. Mr. Ballard, my fellow passenger, was an int'^fiigent, ffOod-natuined young man. With the steerage passengeb I had of course less connection, butHhty Were agteeabtei anci the sailoi^ behaved themselves with propriety during the passage. »^ , TRB ATLAimC OCEAN 19 The motion of the vessel was too great to permit us to amuse ourselves at any garnet and I devoted my time pretty closely to the study of navigation, geography, astro, nomy, and chart drawing; in which I flattered myself that I made tolerable proficiency. The study of chemistry took up part of my time, and so also did general literature and music. To die principles of merchandize in general, and the trade between Glasgow and Savannah in particular, I paid much attention, and drew up an essay on the ship- ping trade between the two places, and the best method of prosecuting it; but circumstances have since occurred which render it of little importance to the general reader, and I omit it, and substitute in its place the following re* fictions on the prevailing winds and currents, with other phenomena, in die Atlantic ; and an inquiry as to the beat courses across that ocean at diiferent seasons of the year. I. or THE WINDS ON THB ATLANTIC. The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, from 2^° S. to 23J'' N. latitude, being 47 degrees in breadth; and is a constant motion of the air fh)m east to west, having a little variation near the extremes, that is, towards the southern tropic it inclines to the south-east, and to- wards the nordiem trc^ic it indihes to the north-ea§t. The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the ac- tion of the sun, which is dways verdcsd at one pokit or another between the tn^cs; combined with the diurnal motion of the earthy which has a 'greater velocity here than at any other point, llie adtion of a i^rticrf sun rarefies and expands thew, inconsequence of which it rises; and % » « 4 ao TRAVBLS ON the motion of the earth sweeping £rom under it at the rate of more than 1000 miles an hour to tlie eastward, causes a constant current of air to the westward.^ The velocity of thb current is various; but when I saUed in it, in my voyage to the West Indies, it was very strong, and r^u- lar^ carrying a heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 miles an hour, and it never shifted a point irom due eaist A litde attention to the nature of this wind may be use- ful,^ as it illustrates the theory of the variable winds, and bears with considerable ibrce upon the theoiy of the cli- mate of the United States^ r From the tr(4)ic of Cancer, in 23^% to about 28^ nordi latitude, the wind generally blows' from the north-east, and is a branch of )the trade wind, partriking ctf its natuine. Between the latitudes of 28^ and 32° north, the winds are very irregular; and that being the region between the trade and variable winds, it is subject to frequent calms. Be? tween the latitudes of 28° and 50° north, westerly winds are by far the mo^t previ^ent, particularly in the winter and spring, during which they frequently rise to furious gales and squalls, beyond 50° north, I had not occasion to re? mark, but I believe ^y are most prevalent from the north? Ih OF THE Glri«PH STREAM. / This stream is a oonsequence arising from' the trade winds, By an inspep^on of th^ chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it .will b^ seen, tha]t the vast quantity of w^ter of \vhich that ore^ is made up> must be affected by a con- stant <;:urr^t of air swe^ing along it fin one di^ectioij* t the rate d, causes velocity t)f t, in my ind regu- if 8 miles list. ■ .-i ■■':'"h: lybeuse- rinds, and >f the cli- 28^noi11i i-east,and its natui;e. winds are I the trade ims. Ber wdndsare ^ter and ous gales ion tore? northr |the trade Atlamic water of a con- ;don. i THE ATLAKTIC. OCEAN. ^ This must necessarily give a small degree of modon to the water, which being slanted off by the direction of the coast of South America, has, towards the southern extre- mity, a nordi-west motion, and proceeding through the •West Tndia islands, raises the waters in the gulph of Mex- ico bc^^ji.^ the level of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans. The current being stopt by the isthmus of Darien, winds along the northern coast of the gulph of Mexico, in search of a level, and finds an outlet through the gulph of Flo« rida, between the island of Cuba and the south point of £ast Florida. From thence it proceeds in a nordi-east direction, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of 60 or 70 miles from the land, until it reaches cape Hatte- ras, where it approaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast ; here it tends more to the eastward, until it reaches the coast . of Nova Scotia, when it takes a course nearly due east. JA continues this course until it reaches the Great Bank of Newfoundland, where it seems to be materially affectedi and diverging to a greater breadth, is finally lost towards the Azores and Madeira islands. The breadth .of this stream, in the gulph of Florida^ is about 30 or 40 miles. It encreases as it proceeds to the north-east: opposite cs^ Hatteras it is about 150 miles ; off the coast of Nova Scoda it is about 4 degrees; and at the Bank of Ne^vfoundland it is about 5 degrees; fit)m thence -diverging to 6 or 7. The velocity of the current is, in the gulph of Florida, about five or six miles an hour, but it decreases as it pro- ceeds to the north-east. Opposite cape Hatteras it is about two miles; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about one and a half; and at the banks of Newfoundland it is about one mile. i-n-i TRATKLS 0» «;4*^ 4> The peobabiiity is> that ks course ia directed to die east- ward by die iniiiienGe of die rivers issuing from die coast of America, particulaiiy the great river St. Lawrence^ op- posite to which it seems to make the greatest bend; and it is also probable that the confluence of dieae waters and another stream proceeding fromDavb' Straits, has c6nitri- buted to raise the Banks of Newfoundland. The temperature Of this stream is different from that of the surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters in the gulph of Mexico, being generally 10 or 12 degrees warmer than the other parts of the ocean. / Hence it affects the temperature of the air above i^ which is frequendy subject, particidarly m the spring, to calms, fogs, whirl- winds, water spouts, and storms of thunder and hg^itning. The heavy fogs which hover over the Banks of Newfound- land, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with die icold atmosphere generated by the ^ream from Davi»' Straits. -■vm.'^'c The next phenomena which I diall notice, as bearing on this subject, is, that islands of ice, sometimes numerous and of great extent, are carried by the stream from Davis* Straits, in the spring season; and before they are dissolved by the warmth of the Adandc, they sometimes extend as iu* south as the latitude of 45° or 40°, and as far east as die longitude of 48° or 50^. Vessels sailing to and from Ame- rica have been frequendy entangled amongst them) and some have been totallv lost. A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of con- sidemble importance to our inquiry, and the foUowkig practical deductions may be of service to those interested in the result. i*. THE ATLAKTIC OCEAN. 23 om that of the watars 12 degrees ceitalfects frequently Dgs, whirl- hghtning. Newfound' !g with the as bearing numerous )m Davis' > diasotved tend as iu* sastas the omAme- hem, and ' d 'm 1st. Ships bound ton Britain to the West Indies should shape their course fitim die channel to St. Mary's, one of the Azores; fixim thence to where die longitude of 40^ in- tersects the fattitude of 23i° ; and from thence run down the trades kr the intended port, ^ps bound from Europe to the giriph of Mexico, should keep the same course. The return from the West Indies and Mexico to Europe is dif- ferent according to situation, as a few degrees of longitude make an important variation. Generally speaking, it is best for vessds to bear to the nordiward until they xget into the variable winds, and then keep along with them in the near- est way to their intended port. 2d. Vessels bound to the southward of the capes of I Virginia in the United States, should, in the spring, shape their course for St. Mary's as aforesaid; fit)m thence to about where the longitude of 35° intersects the latitude of 28°, where they will, at that season, most likely meet with an easterly wind, failing which they are sure to fall in with it a few degrees farther south; run down with it due west till they arrive on the confines of the gulph stream; and then bear away for the intended port. By taking this southern course, at this season, they will avoid, several difficulties. 1st. The danger of falling in with islands of ice. 2dly. The necessity of passing the gulph stream where it is four or five degrees broad, and at that season subject to much bad weather. And 3dly. The chance of meeting with a series of head winds. In the autunm there is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mild, and th^ westerly winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between 28° and 32° are much subjected to calms, so that it isi best, upon the whole, to nm for the intended port. fli TRAVMiSIN Hi 3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capes of Virginia should shape their course direct for the intended port They have n6 occasion to cross the gulph stream, and as to the ice, it may be prudent to keep a little to the south- ivard, as they approach the Banks of Newfoundland. 4th. Vessels bound to Europe Grom. any port of Ame- rica, cannot do better than run direct for the intended port. -jwr- GBOHGIA. •l-*'W GHAFTEIt WL Savannah, The firsj objects that attracted my attention on my ar- rival in Savannah, was the salloW appearance of the inha* bitants, and the extreme \varmth of the weather; the ther- mometer being at 91®. I naturally concluded, that as the [season advanced, the heat would increase, and would soon )e almost intolerable. This opinion was strengthened by some of the inhabitants, who are in the habit of alarming Pstrangers concerning the climate; but I^vas afterwards in- [formed, by a judicious medical gentleman, that there would be few days warmer than this, and that the weather would be, upon the whole, much cooler. This opinion I found to be correct, for in a few days the thermometer fell beloW 70°, and it seldom rose above 85° while I continued in Savannah. The next circumstance that made a forcible impression upon me was the great difference between this place, and any other I had ever seen before. There was no distant view — ^no extemd object to amuse the fancy— the whole cduBtry round, north, south, east, and west, >vas one dull scene, which excited no interest; and the music of the birds of heaven was exchanged for the dull croaking of the bull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musque- toe. Nevertheless, I soon got familiarized to the place, and even fond of it. My business, which %vas well organ- VOL. I. B n TKAVBLft IN ized, was succeeding to my wish, and the inhabitants, whom I found very obliging, became every day m-^re amiable in my eyes. Savannah is situated in 32° 3' north latitude, on a high sandy bank, or ;bl|iff> on the;scmt^ side of the Savan- nah river, 17 miles from the sea. The city is Imd out on an elegant plan, and is about a mile in lengdi from east to west, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. It con- sists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, containing about 1000 houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about 2500 are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, bank-office, and five jdaces for public worship. There has lately been built a very handsome exchange, with a spire and observatory', from whence vessels maybe seen out at sea: ,10 or 12 miles. . The situatioix of Savan- nah is favourable, both for health and commerce. The bluiF on which, it is built is fipm 50 to 70 feet high, so that there is a fine descent tO; the river. , This bluff is a bed of, very fine sand ; and by digging wells about 60 or 70 feet deep, a supply of CKcellent water is procured, probably a filtration firom the river. The streets- are broad and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea, frequeiitly enjoys a Seabreeze, which is cool and refi*eshing in the summer season. ; The trade of the. city is cionsidcrable, and employs 13 regular ships to Britjain; 15 packet brigs and schooners to New York; two or three to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Boston; two or three sloops to Charleston; and four or five vessels to the West Indies. Besides these, there are a number of vessels that (?ome fix)m the nortli\vard an- nually, to take fiieight for Britain, and the continent of Europe. • . ■ ^ ■ im |bal ^cot ■■i>i are GEORGIA. IT 27 The country in the vkinity contributes but little to the supply of the city. To the south it is sandy dnd barnen for a considerable distance. To' the north, eiist, and west^ considerable crops of rice are raised i but it is thbught that the rice fields contribute to make the city unhealthy.^ Co(k ton and rice are the staple comtnodities of the stiite;; jaitidi Savannah being the only shipping port in itj'is^iof.coursQC^ [the general mart for the displosoliof lA]ese^>artsele6. iThie>. [sea^isUnd cottoii of this slate, is lecktoed suiperior toanyv [in America. The principal islands iviietie it is!raised arb 1st. Symons and Cumberland; ibutk as planted|Siid comes ito maturity, in all the other islands along the.jcopiSt^^om: [Charleston south^vard, as rWell as on; mother .places of the iboard, and is thence called ^a^oarJoo^tori, or^' i^:aomfi )f my Scotsiit-iends would hsL\^itf:f^ smlri^oHww^yr'iJijh^ exports from the state amount to above two millions of ^dollars annually; besides what is carried coastwise, which [is not entered at the custom-house, and which may \pro4 bably amount to as much more. The great value is in ; cotton, and the whole centres in Savannali. The imports are from Europe, the West Indies, and the northern states, iuid consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, &c. ; imd it is presumed they are neai'ly equal in value to the [exports. Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dol- lars, and allow 7 per cent, commission to the Savannali merchants, the result will be 560,000 dollars, as the an*i,. nual income of Savannah, which may perliaps be preife*^ , near the truth. ^ Savannah river is one of the most important in America. Its head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near the njountains, and form a junction about 220 miles from the sea ; from thenre it runs a south-east course, and falls 2ft fTRAVBLS m into the bccan IT^miles below Savannah. It receives se- veral small streams in its progress, and is the boundary line between Georgia and South Carolina, during its whole course. It is navigable for ships of any burden to within three miles of Savannah; for ships of 250 tons to Savan- nah; and for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta, are the Rapids, and, after passing them, the river can be navigated 80 miles higher, in small boats, to the junction of 1^ head waters. It may be remarked, that through the medium of this river a considerable part of the produc^JBtf .South Carolina is carried to the Savannah -^^Rlfe liver abounds with fish, and the water is soft and good; but die country on its banks is by no means healthy, especially in the lower part of the state. ihkl j!^ 'l:)iiR*\-»;H(;r>ffu>if i/. '•-|.'^.iL,. c-.4*»^03; .1. ^;t, m^ GEOBOU.. r 29 eives sc- x)undary its whole to within. ;o Savan- Above , the river ts, to the ked, that le port oi* Savannah 1 1< . . . » s soft .and lo means .w.4.~ 1, .tU w CHAPTER IV. -,. . ...... ,. ....... M.S. ,Ui. -.4- . ■ xl AVING aitanged my afllairs in Savannah, and confi- ded the management of the business to a trusty assistant, I resolved, in pursuance of my original plan, to make a tour to the upper country, for the purpose oi* acc^oiring information, and forming connexiohs. The season was £u* advanced for travelling, in that country, but I trusted to a good constitution and temperate habits ; and finding a gentleman about to go to- Augusta, I resolved to avail myself of his company. I accordingly purchased a horse, for which I paid 118 dollars, saddle and bridle includ^^ and, having every thing prepared, we set out at mid-day, on Friday, June 27th. We took the Augusta road, and at two miles from Savannah, we passed the branch which leads to Louisville. A litde beyond this there is a fine spring of pure water, much fi^quented by the inhabitants of Savannah in ths summer season. Seven miles from Savannah we met two travellers, who informed us that the cre&ks^ were all swelled to a great height, and the bridges broken down, so that we could not possibly get along. The road was, indeed, far fh)m inviting. There had been a long series of rainy weather, and the afternoon was very sultry; but we resolved to go through, * This term is, in the United Stttesj applied to small rivers or rivulets. 30 travbls in if possible, aiid uccordingly kept on our course. Two miles Irom wherc we met the travellers, we reached the* iirst obstacle, called Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge was nearly gone, but we adjusted the rafters a little, and with some difficulty tq^ our hors^ over. After trdvelling tliree miles more, we reached Austin's Creek, and here, the bridge being entii^ly gone, \^e swum, our horses across. A mile further on we reached Black Creek, the largest and most dai^erous of the tliree. ^ Ijt had swielled to a great extent; .in, tlic middle the .cup^nt, wqs rapidj and tlie bridge was iii;a very shattered- ^o^^^^"* ^^ liad.tp wade waUi, our horses nearly he)ly flcepi, above 200 yards, before we c£|mc to the bridge, ahfl here alight- i^>g, I walked along, ,up to the knees in water^ adjusting the rafters as .wqll as I cpuld, an(^ tlien , with considerably difficulty led my hox'i^e over:, a pomitrypjan, .whom we came up with at the bridge, attfmpted to follow my ex- ample, but luis ! }>oi'se f^jU tlirough, and ^vas. nq^r ^tMsing lost. I pitied the pooi* man, who was in great affliction for his crature^ as he call^4 ^P hof'se; but ^ye agisted him, and with considerable, difficulty got, the creature, re- lieved. My fellowTtravel)er d^cliiied following our exa^l- pie, and, stri^jping liis horse, he, swam.. him through, thp creek, himself walking along, the remains of the shattered bridge. After passing the bridge, we had ag^to wade about 200 yards before we reaolied dry land; aiid, a little beyond the creek, we arrived at Hely's inn, where we stopped foi' dinner. Here we found the Augusta stage and passengers. They had set out two hours before us, and, liaving the same obstacles to encounter as ourselves, liad been detauied thus long. Our dimier consisted of fowls, bacon, eggs, butter, wheat bread, Indian com GEORGIA. » e. Two iched thi' le bridge ittle, and trdvellin^' and here, yg: horses reek, the d swielled 7^s nipidj on; We ;p, above Te adjustmg nsiderablp kvhom we ^v my ex- b^ing affliction |e a^sted •qture, re- lur exapi- |oiigh. thp shattered to wade |d, a little here wc sta stage fore us, lurselves, sisted of ian com bread, rice, and homony. The last mentioned dish I had not seen bolore, and it is not generally known. It is made of Indian com cleared of the husk, . and broken by beating, but not very small ; it is then boiled in MTitcr to the consistence of pudding, and served up for use. When wgW prepared, it is very palatable, and is wholesome nutri- tive food. A little cherry brandy was the only liquor we could get. The cliarge for man and horse was 75 cents. Leaving Hely*s, we travelled two. miles, wlien my fel- low-traveller stopped to point out the spot where two ne- groes were executed for killing an overseer. The one was hanged, and tlie other was burnt to death. I was in- formed that this mode of punishment is sometimes inflict- ed on negroes, when the crime is very flagrant, to deprive them of the mental consolation arising from a hope that they will after death return to their own country. . This may be good policy, as respects the blacks ; but, in mercy to tlic white people, I.wisli it could be a>'oided. Wh^*ji I looked at the scorched tree where the man had been tied, and observed the fragments of his bones at the foot of it, I M'as horror-stmck ; and I never yet can think of the scene witliout a pang. What feelings must have been excited in those who saw the execution ! Thirteen miles beyond this we reached Berry's tavern, 28 miles from Sa- vannah, and here we stopped for the night. The afternoon was sultry, and, in consequence of the heavy rains, the road was very bad. The first 13 miles we were quite enveloped in thick pine ^voods, with verj- little brush-wood. The soil is^poor and sandy, so that there are few settlements. The last 15 miles were rather more pleasant, and there are more settlements; but the 32 TRAVBL8 IN country is level, abounding with marshes^ musquetoeu, and bull-frogs ; and tlic soil continues poor and sandy. Saturday, 28th June, we rose at three o'clock and set tied our bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one cents each ; and travelled through a barren, swampy, un. pleasant tract, 10 miles, ^vhen wo stopped to breakfast at the house of a Major King. We were detained a long time here ; but we were well compensated by getting an excellent breakfast, and the view of the place was far su- perior to any thing we had seen since we left Savannah. It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared for a considerable way round, and there is a clear rivulet in the neighbourhood, a thing uncommon in the low country ; such streams being generally choaked up by brushwood, and converted into swamps. After leaving King's, the country rises a little, but it is still poor and sandy. We travelled 10 miles to Scrogg*s, pnd the day being exceedingly hot, we stopped here for dinner. Hearing the noise of a wheel up stairs, which was the first I had heard in America, I went to sec What was going on. Here I saw a black girl carding cotton, and a daughter of the landlord spinning the rolls on the large wheel. They were quite busy, and appeared to be industrious and liappy. After coming down stairs I en- tered into conversation with the mistress of the house, whom I found to be a sensible woman, and sufficiently communicative. She informed me, that they, as well as all the other families in the neighbourhood, spun cotton all the year round, and got the yam woven into every ar- ticle necessary for family use ; such as sheeting, \shirting, toweling, table-cloths, gowns, petticoats, aprons, caps; pantaloons, vesting, and summer coats for the men's use ; OKOROIA. '86 usquetoeb, i sandy. ;k and 8e^ thirty-one ampy, un- >iieakfast at ned a long getting an was far su- Savannah, leared for a f\f\et in the IV country ; brushwood, bcaidet sofa-clothes, fringes, tassels, hosiery, &c. I ex- amined the yam and cloth, and found the fabrics sMbstan- tial and durable. The cloth was neatly nuuiu&ctured, and some of the articles were handsome. I saw that this fiunily was " independent of commerce ;" and this was the first impression that I received as to the importance of the fhmeatic mant^acturea of America. The idea was novel, d its tendency was to militate against my interest as an importer ;• yet I cannot say but that the feelings excited by t were of the pleasing kind. Self-interest is a proper principle, but it should be so regulated as not to blunt |the feelings of humanity, nor to make us repine at the ell-being of others. Leaving this comfortable cabin we travelled two mile% hen, coming to a grocery store, we lighted to quench thirst ; the afternoon being excessively hot and sultry. ere we saw a lady from Savannah, who, having lost two hildren in that city, had retired here with the third, the nly one she had left. The child appeared to be thriving, d I hope will live to -reward the mother for her maternal The Georgian ladies appear to be very fond of hildren, and, in the country at least, they seem to be suf- ciently prolific ; for we hardly ever passed a house with- ut seeing a cluster of young ones ; and often a child at breast of a mother, whom, judging from external ap. ipearance, I would have reckoned past child-bearing. We travelled eight miles further, through a country nearly similar to that we had passed, to Pearce^s; and here we stopped for the night. This is one of the most pleasant places I had yet seen; in Georgia. There are three plantations adjoining, so that the country is cleared for a considerable way pound ; ^, VOL. I. ti TRAVELS IN and being a little elevated, it is free from swamps, and tolerably healthy. Here we saw a number of starlings, and heard several mocking-birds, whose notes were very delightful. We retired to rest at nine o'clock ; but I was so overcome, with fatigue, that I enjoyed little repose. Sunday, 29th June. We set out at five o'clock in the morning, and, traveling 11 miles through pine woods, and a barren sandy soil,, we passed Beaverdam creek by a 'wooden bridge, and arrived at the village of Jacksoinbo- rough. It is situated on the north side of the creek, and consist^ oi about 12 dwelling houses, a church, and jail. The situation is unhealthy on the creek, but the land is considerably elevated behind the town, and is said to be quite healthy. ' The view was gratifying to me, being the ^rst rising ground I had seen in the United States. We travelled nine miles beyond this to Burrel's, to breakfast. The country is completely barren, and covered with pine trees, without any brushwood, the whole way, but the air was elastic and agreeable. It is a common re- mark in Georgia, tliat the pine lands are healthy ; and the circumstance may probably be accounted for by suppo- sing, that the resinous particles of the pine may contribute to 'increase the oxygen of the atmosphere j whjle, the wopds being generally on barren ground, no pernicious gases £ffe generated uncongenial to the human system. A great portion of the subsistence of the human body, is received by breathing. The atmosphere is principally composed of two fluids, oxygen and azote, in the propor- tion of nearly three-fourths of the latter to one-fourth of the former. It is the oxygen that supports animal life. in respiration it is absorbed by the lungs, and combines wi^ the blood, which give? it its florid colour ; while the In ■t> of 1 the wat 5 GE'^SGIA. Sir "amps, and f stairlings, I wete very ; but I was repose. * lock in the >ine woods, 1 creek by Jacksonbo- creek, and h, and jail, the land is s said to be % being the tates. Burrel's, to md covered whole way, common re- ly; and the by suppo- contribute while, the pernicious an system. an body, is piincipally the propor- le-fourth of mimal life. I combines while the azote is thrown out by the return of the breathing. There are other fluids which mmgle occasionally with the atmo- sphere, the principal of which is hydrogen, which is gene- rated freely by the decomposition of vegetable and animal matter in water ; and this fluid is not simply unfit for res- piration in a negative sense — it is positively noxious. Hence that state of the atmosphere which contains oxyg^ in the ^proper prop(»tion, and where there is no pther gas, except azote, must be the fittest for respiration; and, from a consideration of these circumstances, we may see the rea- son why high IiilLy countries, or well-drained low coun- tries, are healthy — ^while crowded cities, abounding iq ^ filth j and low marshy situations in the country, are the Ifeverse.-— From this reasoning we may draw the following ipractical de4uctions. ^^..^^ 1st. Cities should be so constructed, as to admit a cur- rent of fi^e air into every spot. They should be kept very clean ; and no stagnant \vater, or latent filth, should be allowed to accumulate in or about them, 2d. Low countries, when fixed upon as th^ re^denct of man, should be drained ; or, if that be impracticable, the houses should be as %^rppoyed fix)||i iijl stagnant water as possible. 3d. In those diseases which are the effect of breathing impure m, perhaps it would be beneficial to administer oxygen to the lungs as a medicine. The use of vinegar in diseases of this kind is well known. It is almost wholly composed of oxygen, and it parts with.it freely ; so thaj on sprinkling a sick chamber with it, an odour immedi- ately rises, which is both grateful apd beneficial to the pa- tient. Several plants have the same, effect, particularly those having an acid snidk I uus once recovered fi-om SB TRAVELS la V feinting by tlie applicatkAi of southernwood. I had been aifected by breathing air deprived of its oxygen in a crowded church. The oxygen of the plant supplied the defect, and relieved me* V Having break&sted, we pursued our journey il miles through a country nearly similar to that already described, but rather in an improving state, to where the road forks ; the right branch leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesbo- rough. We took that towards Waynesborough, on which the country improves rapidly. In place of pine barrens, swamps, and muddy creeks, we had now an elevated dry road, agreeaWy uneven, and adorned on each Side with natural woods, consisting of pine, oak, hickory, and black- jack. The underwood was pretty thick and bu^y ; in- dicadng a considerable degree of fertility. Seven miles from where we left the Augusta road we reached vridow Laseter's, where we stopped to dinnw, and were hospita- bly entertained. The healthiness of die place was visible in the countenances of the family, among whom were two pretty little girls. A little before we reached this place we passed a church, which we ^ve^e informed belongs to the metho- dists. This sect has been long established in Georgia, and the zeal with' which they have propagated their opi- nions, and enforced the principles of morality amongst jkheir votaries, does them credit. They have been of con- siderable use in society, and I wish them success in every good work. But I cannot see the propriety of some of their proceedings. Their camp meetings may be very well meant, and may be calculated to do some good; but they are a species of " holy fair" at which ** grace" is not the only commodity to be purchased ; and, fix>m tjhe GEORCilA. Srt had been ^gen in a pplied the y 11 miles described, ■oad forks ; iV"aynesbo- [i, on which ne barrens, levated dry i side with and black- bu^y; in- teveh miles hed widow sre hospita- was visible a were two }me good; «* grace'* ., fix)mthe !>. -7 mode in which they are frequeWed by the profane and Ae profligate, it is questionable whether the evil attending them does not overbalance the good. And I can see as little sense in the practice tliey often have of thumping and making a noise in the time of divine service, thereby converting the temple of the Lord into a scene of confu- sion and discord, exciting the laughter of the profane, rand distracting the serious; We were informed that a lit- tle before we reached this place, a poor girl was so affect- ed, that she fell down in a fit; and that a black female preacher, of the name of Dorothy Ripley, frequently at> tended, and had the art of playing upon the passions so effectually, that she would sometimes trip half a dozen of ler hearers. " Let all things be done decently and in •der," says the apostle. Let the meithodists go and do likewise. * While we were speaking, we saw a crowd of men, wo- moi, and children, who had been at a baptist camp n^det* ing. The baptists are said to be one of the most nume- rous and influential religious societies in the state. They are also zealous in propagating their opinions, and arp pretty austere in their manners ; but I did not hear of any excesses in their camp meetings or churches. Leaving Mrs. Laseter's, we travelled four miles to Waynesborough, and lodged at the house of Mr. Wynne ; who to the business of tavern-keeper joins that of post- tnaster. Waynesborough is built principally on one street, and consists of about 40 dwelling houses, church, jail, academy, and court-rooms. It contmns 220 inhabitants, of whom above one half are slaves. The land in its vici- nity is pretty good ; is cultivated a considerable way 38 TBAVELB IN round; and there are in its neighbourhood some very wealthy planters. It is distant from .Savannah river 12 miles, and has a considerable trade in dry goods and gro- ceries. Having spent a day in this place, and parted with my fellow-traveller, who took the road to Augusta, I set out for Louisville on Tuesday the 1st of July, at five o'clock in the morning. Five miles from Waynesborough I came to a fine sprmg, and descended a considemble way by a stony path to a rivulet, on which I heard the sound of several mills. The sound of machinery is always grate- ful to my ear, and the view of the stones excited no small degree of interest ; being the first that I had seen in the United States. After travelling nine miles further, through a barren country, I came to a deserted church, where the road forks. Itook the wrong road, which led me out of my course among a number of plantations. I found the inhabitants were principally Irish people, by one of whom I was informed of my mistake, and got directions as to the best method of rectifying it. The family were at breakfast, consisting of pork, potatoes, and coffee ; and I was hospitably invited to partake, but I declined it; and, pursuing the directions received, I soon reached the wag- gon road from Savannali, and arrived 2^t Louisville^ at 10 o'clock. *fi-. CO IT' ha ■V7i ' ■" "j ' * ■' itrt.y'^.-r- %■ GBOROU. 39 d with my , I set out ive o'clock ugh I came e way by a le sound of svays grate- ed no small seen in the ler, through I, where the i me out of [ found the le of whom actions as to ily were at iffee; and I led it; and, 4 the wag- iviUe, at 10 ■^ CHAPTER V. Louisville. Louisville is the present capital of the state of Georgia, and is situated on the north-east bank of the Ogfe- chee river, 70 miles from its outlet, and 100 miles west from Savannah. It consists of about 100 dwelling houses, 'and contains about 550 inhabitants, of whom nearly one lalf are slaves. It is built on an elevated situation, and there is a pretty extensive vjew to the westward; but con- kderable marsh effluvia is generated on the banks of the river, which renders the place rather unhealthy. The country in the neighbourhood is well cultivated; and Louisville contains a civil, well-bred society. There are ten dry-good and grocery stores in the place, and they have a considerable inland trade. J^ouisyille is at present the seat of government, but it is about to be removed to Mil- ledgeville, a new setdement, about 50 miles distant. It was my intention to go further up the country, and I had everything prepared for that purpose; but in the evening I was suddenly seized with a fever, which defeat- ed my object, and at one time threatened very serious consequences. The day had been uncommonly hot and sultry ; the thermometer stood as high as 93i° in the shade. In the evening there was a cool thunder gust, and the night got very close and sultry. I went to bed early ; but I had sparcely lain down wherf I found tlie fever come on i J 4l^ TRAVELS IN with extreme violence. I was in danger of suffocation, and ran to the window to get fresh air; but all was still; there was not a breath of air stirring. I observed three beds in the room empty, and thought I would try an ex- periment. I wrapped myself up in a blanket, and taking all the clothes of the three bedsj I threw them over me. I had a small bottle of Madeira wine prepared for the journey, of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My pulse rose to 130, and I suffered the most excruciating pain for about half an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out and relieved me. I |)artook freely of the wine, and k6pt up the ^x^rspiration until morning, when the fever was quite gone; but I was debilitated to such a degree that I could hardly stand. ^ On getting up, I judged it expedient to take medical advice, and applied to a Dr. Powell, who prescribed some medicme, and advised me to decline going further up the country at present, the season being quite too far advanced for travelling. He recommended to stop two or three days in Louisville, and then to cross over to Augusta by the way of Richmond Springs, where I could st(^ a few days, and in case I found I could not travel from Augusta on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I re- solved to follow, and made my arrangenlents accordinglyv Having, in consequence of this determination, a tittie time to spare, I wished to apply it to the best advantage, and I was kindly assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He invited me to his house, and introduced me to Mrs. Pow- ell, a very sensible judicious lady, by whom I was treated with marked attention. The doctor and his lady gave me every information that could be desired, and I was finally invited to take ver me. I le journey, My pulse ng pain for I broke out 3, and k6pt fever was igree that I ike medical ribed some ther up the r advanced Q or three ugusta by stc^) a few Augusta vice I re- cordinglyv n, a Utde dvantage, ell. He rs. Pow- treated formation to take .a bed at their house, by which means I was relieved fipom the bustle of a public tavern, and the still more disagree- able sting of the musquetoes with which the bedrooms in it were infested. On Friday, the 4th of July, I had quite recovered from my indisposition, and walked out in the morning to see tlie state-house. It is a good building of brick, about 50 t square, and consists of two stories, having three ap- ents each, and a large lobby. The house of repre- sentatives meet in an apartment on the lower floor, and le other two are occupied as the secretary's office, and the d office. The upper story consists of the senate cham- r, the executive office, and the treasury. The offices ere all shut, except the land office. I went into it, and w a map of the newly acquired territory, or purchase^ as is called; concerning which the legislature had recently sed an act that was the subject of considerable animad- ersion in the state. > This tenitory is situated between the Oakmulgee, and cpnee rivers; and was lately acquired in exchange with lene of the Indian tribes. The land is said to be rich and '^^yaluable; and it is very extenave, consisting 'of about 10(1 cts, of 12 miles by 8. It is to be disposed of by lot- ry, in whicli every citizen dT jthe United States, who has sided three years in Georgia, is entitled to a draw for 200 acres; and those who g^tthe prizes have to pay 12 dollars, being the expense of suryqring only. This I regard as a very impr^^ way of disposing of public property, and it i^M||!uliarly baneful to practise it under the representative «^» PrcfiKFty, when public, belongs to every meniber|«|||^^p^niiii|Mty, and no alie- nation ought to take place i!Hilli||||||^uring alike the rights VOL. r. is '^ '^ . TRAVELS IK of all. But this can never be done by a lottery, which is a game of chance, and all cannot be gainers. To the gainer it ia more than well. He gets an advantage over his nei|^ bour, and is satisfied; but who indemnifies the loset'? .^ In this case, would it not have been better for the stiite to have retained it, and sold it out at the market price? The funds arising from it might have been usefully applied in making roads and bridges, in improvmg the navigation of rivers, draining marshes, &c. Legislators have a most impoitant trust reposed in them, and should never sacrifice great national objects to obtain temporary popularity^ This being the anniversary of American kidependendti the day was ushered in by the firing of great guns^ and military companies had collected in Jjouisville, frotti iht whole Country rounds On my return to the taverUf I found a considerable number of the military assembled there. I was waited on by a committee of tlie drtiUery company, and received a very polite invitation to dine wi^ them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to observe the mode of celebrating this day, so important in the anmds of America. About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinner. The captain took his phce at the head of the table, the oldert lieutenant at the fi)ot; the committee* gave the different orders, and all i one rank; > it jpervades the whole, and id probabty the bctst gtiarantee ior the continuance of the liberty and independence of the country. Hi: -[yf^o ' ' ' ' ' i ji i6«*i: Itha^ been remarked, th^t this disposition' njayeneoti^^ rage rudeness; but I havemojt yet seen it« *' As the^people will bcind to no superiority^ they really afiect lioiie/; and I am impressed with theibelief,ithat it. is a stranger's own fault, if;l»e does not f<^:yefyihap^ among them. ; // ^ OEORUIAj^ »' 45 Stkttirday, July 5th. I left Louisville at 5 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through a barren, sandy country, twenty miles to breakfast. From thence, I tra- velled eight miles more, through pine woods, to Richmond Springs, which I reached to dinner. Towards the springs, the country gets elevated, and agreeably uneven ; but the soil is miserably poor. The springs have no other medi- cinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of which there is here a considerable bed ; and there is a fine rivu- let, which Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously diverted into a bathing-house ; and, at a great expence, ha«! converted the whole into bathing quarters, ^vith amplp accommodations. I staid two days at this place, and found my situation very comfortable. I lia^ an opportunity of bathing in the piire spring water orice or twice a-day, ^d had limestone water, pure from thei'itick, to drink. Our victuals were good, and the cookery excellent. My health I found re-established, and my spirits recruited ; so that every thing concurred to render the place agreeable. And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to Georgia, is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of co- !aur, and is disliked by the Georgian ladies, who will not go to her house. Where the ladies will not go, the gen- tlemen will not go, and so poor Mr. Posner does not get a prc^r reward for his exertions, and tlie Georgians lose the benefit of one of the sweetest summer retreats in all the country. I was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceed- ingly well pleased with . madam Posner's attention. The old man is a sort of poet too^ and, though his rhymes arc not to be compared with those *of Pope or. Milton, yet they are humorously recited, and in a dialect that never fails ^'^ u TBAVBLt Vsr to excite risibility. He JUtvoured me with a oopy qf ver- lies, which he addressed to a little swindliiig Jew of my ac- quaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated him; and of which the concluding stanaa will be sufficient to satisfy the reader of his poetical powers. But it lurely was a great sin, To send me common whisky in place of Hollands gin. 7*he worst remuns behlndr^ To send me common Malaga, in place of good Madeira wine* ' •"it - Monday, July 7th. Set out for Augusta, at 4 o'clock in the morning. The road, which is pretty good» runs through a hilly, uncultivated tract of country, on which there are some settlements, with several creeks, and saw and grist mills. I reached Augusta, which is mteen miles from the springs, at 9 o'clock. LV, rTiat,':*«r.-,i.v :•*' M»MBOIA« 47 CRAPT£Il VI. AuguHdr^South Carolma^'^Savanna/t. Augusta U situated on a htuWUdme plain^ ^leasant little man, and I really felt for him. I had heard somewhere that south*east gales, on the coast of America, seldom lasted above 10 or 12 hours ; and, as this one had now continued upwards of nine liours, I endeavoured to console him with tlie idea, that the chance was f»;Teatly in our favour. He admitted it was so, but could not help being aflfected while there was any chance against us, and the vessel in her present state. While wc were speaking, I chanced to look to the south-west, and observed a small speck of blue sky througii the turbulent atmosphere. I pointed it out to the captain, and I never saw a man so sensiMy al^cted with sudden joy. He affirmed the gale was over, and in a few minutes all was stHl and calm. The wind shifted to the north-west, blomng a delightful cool breeze; and shoiHv after there was not a cloud to be seen in the horizon. We put about the vessel, and stood in for the land ; but the wind was now right against' us, and we made little progress. However \vq had time to patch up our sails, and made the best of our way towards our destiiied port. .siH^];. . i r-^he \\^ather continued favourable, and on the 3d oF August, at daylight, we saw the high lands of Never Sink; at IG o'clock, we saw the light-house, distant 10 or 12 miles ; soon after which we had a fiiivi view of Long Island, Staten Island, the bay, and itumerous ^'cssels in- ward bound. The bi'eeze continued light, so that it was 4 o'clock before we received a pilot ; after which \vx* came to anchor five or six miles south-east of the li£^-hou<«. This pilot gave us information regarding the death* of John THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 55 [ man so PeircC) the seamen who was killed by a shbt from the Leander ; and told us that he had been on board several coasting vessels himself which had been fired at by the Cambrian and Leander, on the conduct of ^\'hose officers be reflected in very bitter terms. V Pft the morning of the 4th we set sail, but tlie brt^e^e died away in a short time, and we again came to anchor within half a mile of the beach, a Utde to the south of the light-house. At H a small breeze sprung up from the south, and we again weighed anchor. At half past 12 wc passed the light-house, and, the breeze encreasing, we con- tinued our course at a good rate, much gratified with tlic prospect round us. Staten Island, rising to a considerable elevation, and clothed with verdure, was right aliead. Long Island was on our right, with a pretty view of the Narrows between themj the high lands of Never Sink astern, and the high lands of the Jerseys, to the westward ; with the great confluence of waters and crowded shipping, formed altogether a most beautiful picture; and it probably made a greater impression upon me than it would had I arrived direct from Europe; tlie dull scenery of Georgia and South Carolina acting as a foil. At half past 2, we passed the Narrows, the channel be- tween Long Island and Staten Island, about three quar- ters of a mile broad ; and immediately after New York, distant about 10 miles, with the bay and shipping, opened to our 'View; which had a very fine eflfect. At liaif past 3, we arrived at the quiu'antine ground, which is beautifully situated on a small bay on the eiist side of Staten Island, and having got a pass from the health officer, we set sail for New York. I was veiy much gratified with tlic view in our passage upwiuxl. There ai*e several islands in the 56 TftAYlLS IH boy, and the scenery on each side b leaUy beautiful ; the city too is adorned with a number of spires, wluch have a fine effect, and in approadung it vre passed a pretQr' point, planted With trees, called the Battery. But we could not land at the city. BpMihe health Ufws, all cotton, after a certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long Island; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening. Fh>m thence I passed over to the city; and immediately wuted on Mn Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and an old" acquaintance; from whom, and his amiable wifl^, I received a most friendly welcome, and a kind invitatien to spend the summer with them, which was cordially ac- cepted^ '.i?M^' Wf^ '^e^ point ctf York island, at the confluence of Hudson and East rivers^ b north latitude 40° 40'. the length of the city on East river, is nearly two miles; and it extends along the North river nearly as much. It^ average breadth is sdxiut one mile, and its circumference sijt. It consists of about 15,000 houses, including public^ buildings and ware- houses ; and the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000. By the cdisUs of 1800, they amounted to 60^489, but the increase has been very great since*. The houses are ge- nerally built of brick, with slated of shingled roo£s; aiti many of them are handsome^ The plan of the city is not uniform. In the old pait qf the town some of the streets are crooked, and many of them are too narrow; but all the modem part is built on a good plan; and some of the new streets are uncommoa- ly elegant. Broadway is the iinest street in the city, an4 from its importance, and great beauty, ii merits a particu- lar description. It commences at the Battery, on the south- west point of the city, and runs in a north-north-east directi(Mi about two miles and a half, where it forms a * By tlie census of 1810, the whole Inhabitants on the island •mount to 96,3r3. -.v>-u-i.-a u^i^. ■fsit VOL. I, « # 58 TRAV£LB IK junction with the Bowery road. The breadth of this street, including the side puvcments, is about 80 feet, and it is regular during its whole length. It is ornamented with rows of poplar trees on each side, and a number of pub- lie buildings are situated on it; particularly, the Custom- house, Trinity church, St. Paul's church, the city public buildings, the Mechanics' Hall, and the hoipital. The street rises by a gradual ascent Crom the Battery, about half a mile, and is at its greatest elevation opposite the city build- ings. Its course is through the higliest part of the island. Greenwich-street is next in importance. It rises also at the Battery, and runniltg nearly due north, upwards of two miles, connects tlie city with the village of Greenwich. Pearl-street is one of the most important in the city in point of trade. It rises also near the Battery, and runs nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street; from tlience h runs to the northward, and ^s into Chatham- street*. Cherry-street is a continuation of Pearl-street, and runs along the East river, till it is terminated by a bend of the river. Bowery-lane is upwards of 100 feet lyide, rises at Chatham-street, and, connected with the Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as before mentioned. The other most important streets are, Wall- street, where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, Xhatham-street, where the theatre is situated, Front-street, Water-street, and Broad-street. That part of the city which has been recently laid out on East river, is constructed on a handsome plan, the streets: crossing one another at right angles, and there are several public squares. Of these there are by far too few ->* Since 1806, Pea*'l-3tleet b^s been extended beyond Chatham- ^reet, to Broadway. ■ ^ % NEW YQIftK» 59 in the city, and they hardly merit nodce. The Battery, before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and com- mands an elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and shipping ; but it is quite small, consistuig of a few acres only. There is a small triangular piece of ground, called the Park, in front of the public buildings, which is very ornamental ; and these ai^ all the public walks of which New York can boast. Would it not be well, in laying out cities, to make a large reserve of public property, while land is cheap ? Hyde Park at London, the Green of Glasgow, and the Inches of Pertli, are instances of its utility.. ' ' --t--" The public buildings are numerous. The first in im- portance is the City Hall, fronting the Park. It i$ now erecting, of white marble, and will, when finished, be the most elegant building m America, and few in Europe will surpass it. The others are Federal Hall, Custom-House, College, Cofiee-House, Mechanics* Hall, Theatre, Hospi- tal, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal churches, five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two bap- list, two qiiaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lu- theran, and one French Calvinistic church, one seceder, one Scots reformed church, oiie church each for univer- jsalists, congregationalists, Moravians, and Africans, and one Jewish synagogue. ' r^j ^jiimti lu jj; • There are five public markets in the city, of which the principal is the Fly-Market ; and these are well supplied with wholesome provisions, vegetables, fruit, and fish ; and the prices are generally reasonable. A few of them may be quoted. . Beef, mutton j and yeal^ 9.tQ.l^ cents^ * A dollaf exclianges at 45. 6d. sterling; and a cent is a fraction niorc thati a halfpenny. * ¥.. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /z^.***-^ 1.0 ^Ki y£ ■tt lU 12.2 E HA ^ L& 12.0 31 J^% ^ ^ Photographic ScMioes Corparation ^ ^^^ ;\ 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WilSTiR,N.Y. 14SM (7I6)R73-4S09 '4^ «> TU'A1»1.S m per poiind ; a turkey 75 ; a goo^ 63 ; ducks and fowls about 25 each ; eggis 14 per dozen ; butter 22 per lb. ; lea— rsoiichong 75, hyson 125 ; cofiee 20 per lb. ; sugar 12, refined 20. Bread is regulated by flour, which is at ^Bresent 8 dollars per bend. Fish and fruit plenty and cheap« Madeira wine 2| dollars per gallon ; claret 5 dollam per dozen; brandy, r^m, and gin, 1| dollars per gallon. . There are a nunfber of schools in the city, and the coK lege, in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, i» reckoned a veiy excellent seminary of education. To the north of ^ city, ntiar Greenwkh, stands the state-prison, inodelled upon the plan of that of Philadelphia; and it is said to be one of the most benevolent institutions ever establbhed in any oountry. >'^'The Ci^ is well situated for trade. Ha\4ng a spacious liarbour, and eaSy access to the ocean at all seasons of the year, and being in a central situation in the United States, it must necessarily always command a large share of the foreign trade of the country; and, having the command x>f Hudson^s RiveT) navigable with its branches upwaids of 200 miles, and the East River,, with Long Island Sound, it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, oif Ver- vnxmti of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of Massachu- setts; besides the whole 6f the fertile interior counliy, which, on the other hand, fumislies eveiy kind of produce and provisions, by an easy water carriage,^ and at a ipeason* ^able rate. The exports from New York amounted, in 1805, to 23j582,252 dollars^ of which 15,484,88S dollars was fo- reign produce. The imports probably amount to up- ymp^ 9f 25,00Q^Q00; but k is ^ be observed, that New •'iiaoi.,':' «ff •■■ . 4 " I ■ KXW TOBK. 61 York ekpokts and imports a great pordqn of the ccnntno- dhies of other states. « The situation of New York I should reckon very heal- thy ; yet it is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness; which circumstance, I an^ rather inclined to think, arises fix>m a defect in the police, which does not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and splendour of this fine city. The buil^ngs are, in many places, too crowded. Many of the wharves are ill constructed, and some of the docks project into the city, especially fh>m the East River, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants. The common sewers are incomplete, and there is no sup- ply of fresh water to sweeten and purify the streets ; but, beyond all, they have adopted the system of sinking ne- cessaries, which accumulates such a collection of latent filth, that thk steams of it are sometimes perceptible at two miles distance. I soon got well acquainted with New York, and ^vas much pleased by the afiability and polite deportment of the inhabitants. The gentlemen, whom I had occasion to see, were mostly merchants, who are distinguished as men of business ; and generally so well acquainted with the nature of their own trade, that they can tell the value of a piece of goods almost as connectly as a Manchester or Glasgow manu&cturer. The female society are polished and well bred. They have not, generally speaking, that florid glow of health, for which the Scottish ladies are dis- tinguished } but they are, I tlunk^ fully as handson^e in their persons and features. I heard but litdc politics among those with whom I associated, but I observed a good deal in the newspapers, a^ two of them were very coarse and scurrilous. They 6d tbaveLs ixr were on di&renC aides of the political qneation, of course, and substituted abusive language and persqtial deda«> mation for reasoning. When a person looks into a news- paper, it is to see the news of the day, of which there is generally a summary in the leading paragraph ; but, con- trary to every diing I had ever seen before, one of these P^qiers began by abusing a cotemponuy, and the other re- turned the compliment, with interest. I notice this cir- cumstance, because it made a forcible impression upon me, and because similar circumstances are oft^i nesorted to in Briton, to represent the free press in America as in the last stage of depravity. A free press is a great national blessing ; but, like the best medicines, it becomes a most deadly poison by abusing it. An editor of a public paper assumes a mosit- important station in soci^. His sen>. timents spread &r, and have a great influence upon the public mind. He is responsible for every word he pub- lishes, and it is not enough that he adhere to truth himself; he b bound to take care that none other publish fidsehood through the medium of his paper. A regard to the pub- lic good> also, requires that truth should be promulgated in decent language ; and nothing ^lould be introduced^ iitto a public p^iper with which the public have nothing to ^. Whenever the personal feelings of the editor have a ten- dency to violate this rule, they should be immolated cii the altar of public decorum.' Party polkics is here, as well as m Britain, a noisy subject ; and the quesdon between the parties not being well defined, it is difficult to understand it. From the best account of it which I could procure, the 9chwn sebips to have taken place about the time of the adoption of the federal constitution, which gave rise to very amroated dis- VEW YORlt. if ciisiions, in which those who were in favour of it were styled ftderaUsts, and those opposed to it antifederalhts. It now- receives the approbation of the whole community, but the distinction of parties continues, under the names of federalists and democrats. They equally lay claim to the title of republicans, and are often styled Jkhral repub^ licans and democratic republicans. It was in vain that I looked for a satisfactory account of the matter in the New York papers which I had an opportunity of seeing; but I observed, in one of them, that the federalists were s^led the disciples of Washington, and the democrats the sup- porters of Jefferson. I thought I would discover the dif- ference in the declared opinions of these two eminent cha^ racters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's Farewel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech, but the sentiments inculcated in these two papers appeared to me to be precisely the same. The one recognizes po- pukur government, and recommends union, obedience to the laws, religion and morality, and to keep party spirit within bounds. The other declares, that the will of the majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land ; and recommends harmony and affection, with the free exercise of reason, of religion, and of the press. Professing to act under these sentiments, it is somewhat singular that there should be a difference at all ; but, to use the words of one of the characters above alluded to, " every difference of opinion Is not a difference of principle," and the political question may be considered as essentially different from what it b in Britain. In Britain, the question between whig aiKi tory is, whether the controuling power shall be vested in Hhs people or in the croum. In America, it it w}^!ether it shall be vested in this or that set of men* 64 TRAVELS IN , i» Having merely glanced at this subject, I shall dismiiss it with a fervent wish for the total extinction of all party spirit^ tlie more to be desired in the United States, as party dis-* tinctions are apt to divert the public attention from objects of real practical utility, while the difference in principle among good men is so small, that they should be-all republicans, all federalists." On the 20th of August, I was introduced to that cele- brated character, Thomas Paine. He was confined in New York by a hurt in his leg, and lived in the house 'of a Mrs. Palmer, widow of the late deistical minister in thstt city. The gentleman who introduced me was well ac- quainted with Mr. Paine, and I was politely received as his friend. Paine was sitting in a small apartment, with a number of newspapers before him, and he gave one of them to my friend to read some paragraphs relative to the negociations for peace between Britain and France. In the mean time, I cast my eyes across the table, and, from fiome MSS. which lay on it, judged he was writing on the subject of religion. The tide of one of the pieces was singular, namely, ** It is I, Thomas Paine, that speaketh/' I could only see a word here and there of what followed ; but, by the scope of it, I presumed that it was some sort of religious creed. I was afterwards informed, that it really was so, and that he intended it should be published after his death. When my friend had finished reading the newspapers, they entered into conversation, in which Paine declared decidedly, tiiat there would be no peace* " The UTir," he observed, " must inevitably go on till the go- vernment of England fell ; for it was radically and syste- matically wrong, and altogether incompatible with the present state of society.'* I reminded him> that there 1^. ■itt,-,^ Mew TORK. w(M now a whig adnunittration in Britain, who would in« stittite a leibnn of. abuses, cause the constitutioiii to be acted on in its puritf , and probably repair all the mischief that had been done by the toiy administratians. He shook his head, and said that i he knew the English >goviem- ment well, and was -convinced that no man, or set of men, would ever be able to reform it ; the ^stem waa wrong, and it never would be set right without a rei "Finding we differed on this. point, L changed the sub- ject^ and took notice of a little essay ^which he had written on the yellow fever, wUch had beiea published in the newi^Nipera, and attracted considierable attentica^in the sQuthem states. He seemed to be |>leased with thia^ . and» i^^ijthe . OOUW& ,oC conv^mation oiviChe suJ^yeot^ diaeovered a'good de^ i»fvthat litepary vanity. tof^wbieh 1)» has been acomied ; bmM » muit be aokno that this little pieice ^contains much valuable infoifmatipn. « The > arga- menls are ingenious;; to me, indeed, quite convincing $ and I ha^e. conversed, with some of Mr. i^oae'smost stre- nuous pditieal q;>ponents, who . liave viewed them in tlie same^iig^. v^.Paiaef.iS'^a.slender^man, rather taii, and has an uncom- monly peiietniting^e.>Hi8^&ce-isiSubjeot to a scorbutic eruption, which eaccumstancehaapiobably. contributed to propagnle ^ report^ that her is habitual^ intemperate ^ hut i waa 4nfopned by those whoiElUiow>lHm well^> that it is not^cQiiieotiv When ho meets withia person of his own mfy>^oi thiidLing, hcv will fiequentj^^ induigCu himsdif: to a late hour oyer t i^ass^f toddy^ vbu| seldom icarries \t to excess. His .income is but smaU$ but hfi^isipMn^l^pea*;. VOL. I. I TBAYBLf IH dent diPBiiiii8tanoct» having a tract of land, for which he oouki ohtain ten thouaaiid doUan. He is ptoaaant m con- fenadon, and apcaka very much in the ttf le he writes, ^fcute ckar and perspicuous. The fbttowing tahle will afiofdM idea of the aummer wtatber at New York. August 4. Oesi, temperate. 5. Rain, do. 6. Clear, warm. 7. Do. do. - 8.' Do. dbw m-.: • •■-.'.ft?- Do. Mt la Ckntdy, .^0.^ .^ ..■ ^. iL^ Clear^' .•.'■ ■ - t^ij^r- ■■ ■- do. r • ? *i«ii>,ia3«ws^« -m Cloudy, <-. . ^^-^mmimt^ltm*- ^ ^ ■ V 18^: Do. ' do.^^-:^' •■KlwiKititi .14.- Dec* ^ dOiar..t#''taili«i^ 15. Showers^ ' .:"doir- n-'^'-^iiMiiiippil < »?■■,*:< ■,!.■ '.•' ■ ■ .. ■ lo. Hain^ 8tttoy«^. '^ ^^4#^ *--r-' ;o^:> - 17.- Ckmdy, ' ■•dOi).;-u> ■ tkilm Clc»i pteaaaiilu^^.«a; "«^l^> ^smmmm^-^ 19.' Do. ' vdo. fip|Nfll^o«i||Ml|lilr *v:''.i ■ ■*" '- • 'S6* Do^ .-•da, .'., , . '•*^^*^' ^lit'^vts <^ya^ ofl&die days ittlffK^'iirBrt^ I^tidita- •^'ii-> i^ flBW TOBK. €f t miminer '<^^'10%: *if^r CHAPTER DC. Long Island sounds — Newport y — Providence, Having judged it expedient to make an expedition into the New £ngland states, I took a passage on board a Providence packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the afternoon of die 26th of August. Our company consist, ed of a gentleman and three ladies fiom New York, two ladies and two children from Newport, a baptist preacher, a printer, and a Georgianmi^« I found the major to be a singular character, and shidl give hb history as I learn* ed it. He is a native of Italy, and came to dus country with the French army, during the American war. At the peace he remained in America, married a wife, and tae<> took himself to merchandize, somewhere about Philadel- phia. From thence he removed to Augusta, in Georgia, where he has accumulated a large fir '^se ; liaving ^ve or six stores, and is one of the greatest ^ jtton dealers in all that country. *&r • We pix>ceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze, and had a delightful view of theixmkson each side, .which are well wooded, and adomed widi many elegant villas, t)e- bngii^ chiefly to the meichantft of New York. Six miles above New ¥oric, we passed HeU Gate, a very sin. gular passage, sdxmt 300 or 400 yards in Iveadth, having a ledge of stmken rocks acsoss it m an angular direc- tion, which occai^ '* I'll shoVir you something," said he, '* still more forcible upon the same subject: I beg you'll be seated, LONG IBLAHB lOUND. M ma'am." The lady was seated. He delivered the book with one hand, and, laying hold of her's with the other, sat down beside her.-^She read on. *' This is really beautiful," said she. ** Most beautiful, indeed,'* said he, and seized this opportunity to put one hand gently round her waist, while he helped her to hold the book with the other. Thus they went on from piece to piece, and from sentiment to sentiment, to the great vexation of the ma- jor, who was quite chagrined, that the printer should en- gross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the company of her agreeable songs and conversation. About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached the head of the sound ; where, being near the Connecticut side, we had a fine view of New London, appropriately situated on a river called the Thames. Nearly opposite to New London^ we passed between two very small islands, within a few yards of each other, and entered a curious passage, called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. There is a chtiin of islands, which runs across this outlet in an an-^ gular direction, and they consequently confine the water into narrow channels, so that the tide, at ebbing and flow- ing, runs with great violence. We passed it with a light breeze,, and the current against us^ and consequently we made but little progress ; but we got out of it, and all danger, before dark, and proceeded with a light breeze to Newport; now about 30 miles distant. On our arrival at the entrance of Narraganset bay, I observed a great quantity of shippings principally small craft, and was anx- ious to see this inlet, being esteemed one of the best in America; but it was now 11 o'clock, and too dark to make observations, so I retired to bed; and in tjie mora* ing, found the vessel at the wharf in Ne^vport. ■■j^> .>v.<-. 70 TBAVBLt IV Niwpo&T ii skualed on the south- west point of Rhode Island, in latitude 41° 29^. It extends about a mile fipom north to south, along Narraganaet bay, and is about one third of a mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the ivater, by a considerable ascent. The streets cross one another at right angles, and are all well paved. The num* ber of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, was 6739, and the number of houses is about 1100, chiefly built of wood, and pointed white. The public buildings are a State-House, Academy, Public Libnuy, four baptist churches, two for congregationalists, and one each for episcopalians, quakers, Moravians, and Jews. The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity of the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which it becomes a great resort for strangers, particularly from the southern states, during the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent supply of provisions in its market, particulairly of fish, of which there is said to be 50 or 60 different kinds. The packets which ply between this place and New York, and Providence, are of great service to the city, and to the public. They are generally under excellent regulations, and afford better accommodations and travelling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in most places of the world. The distance from hence to New York is about 200 miles, which we sailed in little more than 30 hours ; and the fare, including bed and pro- visions, was only nine dollars. From hence to Providence, 30 miles, it is one dollar. Newport is a favourable situation for commerce, and hss one of the most safb and commodious harbours in the worid. On the opposite side (^ the harbour is Goat Isl- ioid, on which there is a fort and military station. The BItODft I8LAMt>. inde of Newport b principally m diipping; and there is a manuiactoiy of cotton, and one of dude, Ixith of which are said to be in a thriving state. > v m m m I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well acquainted with it; and from the heights above it we had some line views. After breakiast, wc went on bonrd the packet for Providence. At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind being right ahead, we made little progress. The day how* ever was fine, and the company agreeable; and, being in no particular hurry, we enjoyed ourselves very much, sail- ing up thb delightful bay. We had all our former com- pany, except one of the ladies of Newport and' her chil«* dren. The other had also intended to stop at Newport ; but our printer had exerted his eloquence so efiectually as to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with whom she was to live during commencement. Having heard this term frequently made use of, I inquired into the meaning of it ; and was informed that it b a public day, held at college, previous to the vacation, on which the students deliver their orations and receive their degrees ; and it con« chides with a ball, to which all the young ladies, for many miles round, are invited. After piQceeding a few miles, I found we had a states room futt of ladies in addition to our former company.. One of them came out to take the air. She was a tskl elegant giri> about 16 years of age, with a complexion and features uncommonly beautiful. The major and I guesS' ed that she would immediately attract our printer's notice* We ^etsed right, for wlule we were yet speaking, we s^ him |>ull out his book, and make up to her. She was ttanding beside the object of his fintip4«4> whom faenotir ■4 7fi TRAVELS IN * turned his back upon; andv under pretence of diowing the fine sentimental pieces in the ^Ar, went through the whole ceremony of touching hands, and so forth. Our major was astonished, and wondered what could be about the man that he charmed the ladies so, for he was by no means handsome. One of our company, remarked that there was an herb in nature, called valerir"^ which had the remarkable quality of charming the feline tribe ; and perhaps there might be some herb which produced a simi- lar effect upon young women, and that (he printer must be in possession of it ; for he could account for his re- markable success in no other way. The major swore (he was a sad swearer) that thb must be the true solution) and wondered if any such herbs were to be found in Georgia, as he would purchase them at any expence. But it ap- peared that this theory could not be altogether correct, for a small quantity of valerian will charm as many cats as a room will hdd, whereas it appeared the printer could only charm one young lady at a time^ The Newport lady, per- ceiving his. attention to. the stranger, withdrew from. Imii, and we enjc^ed part of. her agreeable couversation, during the remainder of the passage. He was but short-sighted in Ihe exchange ; for this lady, though not so beautiful as the other, had a great detf more animation, which render- ed her more interesting; and she was possessed of a great deal of good sense. We had a .number of fine songs and stc^ies, and the day passed, away most agreeably. i .i Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, is 33 miles in length, from south to north, and, towards Newport, about 12 miles in breadth, including the islands which! it ;.e:mbo- soms, of which the principal are,iUiode Island, Ca^io^euty Prudence, Patijsnce, Hope, Dyer'% and Hog IsUund. It 9B0DS IStAHDr 73 i«Ddveft the waters of Providence, Taunton, ai^ Patuxet rivers; and contmns five harbours, beudes those of New^ port and Providence. Its toiks are clad with aetdements^ and theie are a number of pretty little towns, the view of which, fit)m the water, has a fine effect. _i■mi.i^t7fiwl^■ At 6 o^clock we reached Providence, where we saw a good deal of shipping, and I was suq)ri8ed to find a ves* k\ there of upwstfds of 900 tons burden. I was informed ^at'she was in the East India trade, of which there is a considerable share at this port^ and that there would be a sale of India goods next day. ''-> *' rh nn . . ■•> >' The major, who h^ often travelled this way^ conducted me to a boarding-house^ where having engi^ed lodgings, we went' out to take a view of the town, with which he wiB well acqusdnted; The groimd rises to a cossiderabto elevation above the : town, fix>m whence We had a fine view; and we returned to bur lodgings highly pleased withl^ ekcursicMns ktf this day; • ''f v- '^'^ t /*^ . ipRoviDbKcfE is beautiflilly' situated' on the head of NariragaRset bay, and is divided into two parts by the l^ovidente river, * over which there is a good bridge, widi a , draw in lit^ to • allow vessels to pass. The west j^de of the town is low^ but the east side rises, by a rapid ascent, to a con^ders^ble devati^. The number of inha- bitants, in 1800, was 7614, and they are rapidly increas- ing^. The public buildings are, a court-house, market- house, a public school-house, a baptist meeting-hotkse, a quaker meeting-house, and three congregational church- es. - There is an extensive college situated on the hill, and commanding a fine view of the town^ bay, shipping, and country formany mUes round. The building is of brick, ♦* •By the census of 1810, they arc 10,07 1. ft iiiAlmi iir uriA a slated rodf, 150 feet long^ 46 wide, and four sto. lies liigh; wd ocmtainfli lodgkigv for upwards of lOQ slu- detitsa it has a valuable philosoplacal appovalus, and a libraty cointaining npwmrds of 30CX> volumes. Providence had a pretty extensive ahi]4>ii^ trade, and several manu&ctories are established in the town and neighbouriiood, which are said to be in a thriving ^tate. 'Being now about to leave this Uttle interesting state, I shidl devote a chapter exclusively to a geographical des- cription of it, which plan I intend to follow in the course of my travels. For the necessary information on ihis branch^ as wen as the description of cities, towns, and rivers, I nmst be indebted, in a great measure, to the researches of tikrae who have gone before me; but I shall arrange tfar subject on a new plan, which may adms^ of conside- rable variety, and have the beneficial effect of rattUring my oiWQ judgment on American ge(^;raphy. To American manners and educatidn I shall psKf a litde txtra attention, because Ivbegin to find thal4 haiw been labouring under considdrahte prgudioes ooncenang diem. it is very common for the natives of Britain to set up thdr ovm coui^ as the model of all^perfectioii, and to doubt die existence of equid advantages any where else, .ond to no couhtry has diat doubt been more extended :dian to the United Stat^ of America. It is reaUy aur* prising to see^ that, aotmthstanding the great iittercourae between the two countries, there should be so much igno- rance, or rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding Ame- rica; and it is to this circumstance that I attribute my own prejudices, for as to what are called natural prejudi- ces, I disclaim them. I have no wish to see tilings other- wise than at they are: and I am very glad to observe m. tint tkis pdopie bnye a potiah of imuuicrs^ and q;>eak a s^k of toguige, , wluch must be the i«;sult of eduGa|*.am at least eqpxA^ito what exista in Britain. And: this does not appear to be confined to the aea-poft towns : the country^ in diia quarter^ is thickly Killed with a civilized^ industri- oua people. i- i^i^pf^'^^i-il^ 'vu. ■mm,, mm ?* .ajyrtii .-iq*, niw ''?1 • 'ur u: 'st*mtJr, ■4- ipinvt-* r=t^ .*'?' M«M,lii-;.^.s#-i:' ,: *4 hiM^' 7f HKODB IftLANIK' 4ilfi. ft:- ...*.AV> M.'^ ^ I'l ■■,'i* T - * '-Vi: ■■■' ■ •■...■.■. CHAPTER X. *.vj*t' . ■> - Rhode Island, ■ Rhode ISLAND is situated between 41° 22' and 42° north latitude, and 5° and 5° 50' east longitude^, being 45 miles in length, and 43 in breadth, and contains 1548 square miles, or 990,720 acres, ifcv The face,, of the country is agreeably uneven,, some places being, ;shUly, but not mountmnous. : Nanaganset, already mentioned^ is the principal bay. The rivers all iflowinto, this bay, and have been already noticed. ^ Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds indth limestone and insffble. Some copper ore and jbad- vitone have also been found; and there are several mineral springs, bu| of no great importance. t» Th(& soil is various, and a gr^t part of it good, though blotter adapted for grazing than for grain. . .The cUmate. is salubrious and healthy ; but the winters sure sometimes long and severe, commencing in Nqvemher, and ending iii March* or April, There is a very short ^ring,. but the summer and autumn are delightful. Vol- ney remarks on diis subject^. ^.* Were I obliged to select * I have adopted the American mode of making Washington the first meridian. It accords best with the map, and is calculated to g;lye a better idea of the relative situatimi of the different places in the country than the meridian of London. imaDB ISLAHD^t 97 Ae most fevourable spot in America as the place of my abode, my choice would M upon the southern poinlof ,»^, Rhode Islaiid; The first setdement was commenced in the yCar 1636,' by Roger Williams, a banished clergyman fiom Ma^- ohuaetts ; and the state was chiefly peopled by emigra- tions from that country. In 1663, a charter was obtained fix>m Chaiies II, which is the basb of the present consti- tution. The country suffered greatly during the revolu- tionary war; but it is now in a thriving state, increaang in population and wealth. It sends two senators and two representatives to congress*. The state is divided into five cojiindes and thirty town- ^ps, and the inhabitants amount to 69,123t> inclu. genious plan, and at groat expence. No Canals ha!vb yet been mode, but aeveral aie projected. The faru#aie generally well cultivated, and produce Indian com, rye, barley, oats, wheat (though not enough for home consumption), fruits in great abundance, and culinaiy vegetables. Butter, cheese, and cyder are mide in gfeat quantity, and of a superior quality. 'The manufiietures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron wori[: fiar shipping, sul-cloth^ paper, rum, &c. The cotton manu* &cture is extending V and I wae informed that some of those engaged in it were doing well ; but h is yet in its infimcy, and,, being subject to a competition with the or- ganized manu&ctures of Britain, it must be attended with a eonaoderable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps some risk. Hiis state is very iavOurably situated for commerce, of whieh- it has a large share. The exports are grain, fiax« seed, lumber^ horses, catde, beef, pork, fish, poultry, onions, butter, cheese, spirits, and cotton and linen goods. The value of exports is about 1,000,000 dollars anUjUa^y. The imports are European and India manu&cturea, West India produce, and logwood. The inhabitants of the country are generally proprietors of the farms they cultivate, £md, having no landlord to make their boo to, nor rent to pay, they must be independent. The inhabitants of the towns are merchants, manu&cturers, mechanics, seamen, and fishermen. The limds a^ not entailed, and hence there is no aristocracy ; but indepen- dence is easily attained by labour. There is no distinc* Momom itLjjn. m? tion mads on account of religious opinions.; but cveiy man wonhipavGockin any^ way his eonscienoe dictates, without interfering 'With his civil rights. There are seve- ral benevolent and useful societies in the state, among which may be noticed one fior the ^^?abolitioAf the slave- trade, and for the improvement of the African race.*' The state of education is said to be conaderab^ behind that of the other New England states, but is improving. The chief seminaiy \s the college at Providaioe^ ahtady akiw tijonedy and there is an academy at Newport under good regulatjioRSy JbfMdiea 1^^ senunarico throughout the stale* V ■-••■•:<■ ^'^ -i^' -•-:■ , ■ J' ^ '■ '^'>^- ■.. . , ,^,;, • '^le state legislature consists of a gcrreHixv^ depu^ fpi* vemor, ten senators, and a representative fiN>m each town- sl^p. They arendiosen by the people twke every year, andttti^ hold two sessions annvally. m TtAVBLB Uf il A'"' •t ."•P^ ri* v,iV*»^?''' ■'.t- CHAPTER XI, ^W#d ^ fi I* m^- Provukncef — Dedhaniy — Boston. L MERE is a rule in travelling this road, that if, on the arrival of the packet, there are three passeingersr goiiig'' on to Boston, the ' stage is bouiid t6 go with them at aiiy hour. There were four of us who iigreed to go a| 5 o'clock ih the morning^ and we cdfistituted the ihajor master of the dustry, because the profits resulting firom them are equal *-tii f 84 ^THATBLt IM 'A to thoM remiltiiig finom ag;ricultiire; and other branches will be subject to the same nile. In every community there are a great number of the membera who are better adapted for labour in the house than in the field» and the force of this remark b peculiarly applicable to the cotton trade, in which a large portion of the labour is performed by machinery, and the remainder principaMy by. women and diildren. But all labour b better paid for in Ame. rica tlian in Britain. The proportion b probably two to onei and if the cotton trade will afford this advance to the labourers, it will bear a competition with similar manufac- tures of Britain, and prosper-*— not else* The most striking circumstance in favour of the cotton manufacturers b the cheapness of the raw material, which is the produce of the United States. They manufacture here principally upland cotton, and the price, including canriage to thb place, b about 2^ cents per pound* ; being about 1$ cents lower than they can possibly have it in Bri- tiun. The next circumstance b.the heavy charges to which Pritish manu&ctured goods are subject before they come into the American market. These may be reckon> ed at least equal to 45 per cent. : namely, carriage, insur- ance, and shipping charges 5 per cent., American duties 16i per cent., importer's profit 10 per cents, American merchant's profit and contingencies 14i per cent. Now, suppose 100 lbs. of cotton to be manu^tured into cloth, of a fabric that will sell at aboiH one shilling sterling in Britain, the number of yards will be about 300; and by producing thb in the American market, subject to these different charges, it will afford a data whereby we may calculate the price that can be aflbrdedto the manu* * It is novf (la 13) only 13 or IS cents. 6 \ \ ^ ^fT MAMAOBVSBTTl. H ftotvrer in America; iM from thence we may determbe the probnbk increase of the cotton manufiK:ture* It is to be observed that ^ demand for cotton goods in America is immcDie» and there is no material competition except with British manu&ctures. lOOlbs of cotfeun purchased in ihe southern statesof America, at 18 cts., is in sterling ^41 Shipping charges, freight, and merchant's profit, at 3d. per pound 1 5 British duty 16 8 Nearly 16d. per pound 300 yds. of cloth at Is. per yd. is ^ 6 12 8 £15 Leaving for the various branches of manu- r facture . r £674 i4i*i . This cloth sent to America, costs in Britain £ 15 Cfaaiges be£ore enumerated, 45 per cent. £ 6 15 jC21 is ■^* Suppose the same fabric manu&ctured in America. The cotton costs, in the southern states, at so 18 cents per pound 818 •sil . Carriage and charges, at 2 cents per pound 2 a^. Price of raw material B 20 Value of simihor cloth imported from Bri- tain ,f 21 i'5, is 96 57 •v.»- f »» I P w f Leavitig ibr the various brtaiOM of manu-' i^^ •a '. 'fiictuie^ ' ■ ■• ■imrHtivyi :■ ^mm>v . j|i76'57 ' ■ i5tin?'-i!A:/4 Or sterling .• •?.:.; •. --"riv i._^.i6 .■ 4 7 ' : Being nearly double the price paid to the British manu- facturer. ^^^^--^ f It will be observed too, by this calculation, that the cot- ton is taken at its extrenie height, and for evdry cent that it falls, the propoftional advantage to the American manu- facturer is increased; because a great part of the difference consists' in duties and charges, which are not materially affected by the fidl. ' "^ t;.^ v ; 4^ ^? mm ^ It is my opinion, upon the whole, that the cotton manu- facture will increase in America; and that it holds out a very good inducement for men of capital to embark in it We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an excellent turnpike road, but being recently cut through a new country, we had no great variety of scenery. The face of the country was agreeably uneven, but the land rather poor and stony.. Twelve miles from Providence we stopped at the house of a colonel Hatchj, the prc^inetor of the stage^ who was along with us. The house' is new and commodious, and we got an excellent break&st, charge 50 cents. From hence we travelled 22 miles to Dedham, , The country, from the reason already stated, is but thinly settled by tlie road side. The face of the countzy is s^reeably uneven, and we had many fine distant views. The road- side abounds with fruit, of which the traveller tnay gather as much as he pleases.' Towards Dedham the country improves, and the inhabitants appeared healthy, and in comfortable circumstances. I MA98A0IIU8STTS. «T Dedham is a; handsome little village, eleven miled from Boston, consisting of between 3 and 4Q0 houses, and containing about 1500 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built joi wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a court-house, three congregational churches, and an episcopal church. There are several grist and saw-mills in the neighbourhood; and the inhabitants cany on a considerable manufacture of shoes and wire- work. From hence to Boston, the road goes through a beauti- ful country, abounding with villas and well-cultivated farms, and at a distance to the eastward are high lands approach- ing nearly to mountains. Wherever I turned my eyes, I was delighted with the view; and being, like the Vicar of Wakefield, ^' an admirer of happy faces," I was amply gratified by the appearance of the inhabitants, who were cleanly, industrious, and contented. The female part of the community, in particular, appeared to great advantage, having a glow of health, an air. of cheerfulness, and a cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed. The country continued to improve as we proceeded to- wards Boston, in the immediate neighbourhood of which the buildings and pleasure-grounds are uncommonly ele- gant. We entered the town by the curious passage called the Neck, and drove up to the house of a Mr. Chappotin, in Summer-street, which we reached just in time for dm. ner. On entering the public room, I found about twenty gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside an elderly gentleman, in a strange dress, with a long beard, who I afterwards learned was the Tunisian ambassador. After dinner, I took a walk roundf the t9wn with the ms^r m TBAVSL8 m jor, who was well acquainted with it; called upon tny fellow-passenger in the Warrington, Mr. Ballard, who was glad to see me; and spent the evening at the boardmg. house, much pleased with the excursicms of the day. .■Jf.-'A.i.i- t^. r ^. .^^. ■' <'>5--,»AiTw;»7,(X. i t i/WJ'tf ■ s** J.-.' 4»'^*- ^ t MA!99ACBOBPFTS. v«"^i0-i';# CHAPTER Xn. JSostan,^—Salem* Boston is buUt on a peninsula, at the head of Mas- sachusetts Bay, m noith latitude 42^ 23'. It is at one place two miles long, but the broadest part is not quite half a mile. A great part of the town lies low along the bay; but the ground rises to a considerable elevation in th^ ndddle, where the State-House is built, which ^ves it a veiy handsome s^pearance at a distance. The totifn par* takes of the nature of the old towns in England^ and is iiregularly buUt, many of the streets being crooked and narrow; but the more modern part is regular, and ^ streets broad and well paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys ambunt to above 150; and there are five public squares; but none of theiUi are of gn^t extent, except the Maliy which is a vei^ elegant piece of pi;blic ground, in front of the State-House. The number of dwelling-houses is'above 3500, aiid, by the censi» of 1800, the inhabitants were 24,937; fix>mthe increase that has sinde taken place, it b presumed that the number is now upwards of 30,000*1^. The greater part of the houses are built of brick, dSid many of them are spa- cious and elegant. • By the census of 1810 they vrtre 33,350. VOL. I* - ^- ■ - ^:; ' ■■■^ :.,M m jj^TRAYBLB ttti^ The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House, Jail, Concert-Hall, Faneuil-Hall, Alms^HoUse, Work- House, and Bridewell ; the Museum, Library, Theatre, and nine congregational, three episcopal, and two baptist churches, with one each for Roman catholics, methodists, and universalists. The public buildings are in general very handsome, and the greater part of the churches are ornamented with spires. The markets of Boston are well supplied with every kind of country provisions, fruit, and fish. The prices are not materially different from those of New York. Flour is generally a little higher; but cod-fish, which is the universal Saturday dinner, is lower. Boston is well situated for foreign commerce, of which it has a very large share. The harbour is spacious, and is capable of containing 500 sail of vessels. There are many whapves. constructed, (^ which the most remarkable h.Ziong f^harfy extending into the bay upwards of 1700 feet. ^ The number of ves^ls that enter and clear out an- nually is imitiense, carrying on a trade to Europe, the East and West Indies, and China, besides a very exten- sive coi^sting trade. The exports annually firom this port probably amount to upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The principal manufactures are of iron, leather, paper, and glass, which are brought to great maturity in all the va- rious branches ; besides which, they have thriving manu- factories of hats, sail-cloth j cards, soap and candles, refined sugar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There are ten distilleries, two breweries, eight sugar-houses, and several rope-walks in and about the town ; but one of the most important branches is ship-building, and the Bostonians seem gene- rally more attached to the shipping trade than any other m Wtt'- -WT'^"^ MASSACHUSETTS. 9i •™' bnoich. There are in Boston three incorporated bonks, besides a branch of the United States' Bank, whose jbint capitals amouitt to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and there are three or lour, insurance-offices, with capitals of 3 or 400,000 dollars each. ^ i ;, There are a number of public societies in Boston^ among which may be mentioned the: American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston library Society^, Agricultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine Society, Charitable Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and the Female Asylum. Public educaUon is on an excellent footing. There are eight or nine pul^c schools, supported at the expence of the town, which are accessible to sdl the mem- bers of the community V free of expence. They are . ma- naged by a committee of twenty-one gentlemen,: chosen annually, and are under good regulations. Besidei»^ these, there are a number of private seminaries, at whicfo^ttie various branches of education are taught; and, iqpon the whole, I believe Boston may challenge a competjjtion on tins branch with any city in Europe, £dinburgh|(^ Scot4 land, perhaps, excepted. i-r < The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the mind, and the cultivation of the benevolent affections, are very apparent in the deportment of the citizens of Boston^ who are intelligent, sober, and industrious ; and, though nmch attached to the subject of religion, they are mwe liberal, generally speaking, than any- people 1 have y«t been amongst. The ladies of Boston are general^ handJ some, with fine complexions; and, judging from the • An A^ffh^tim has since been established, and is probably the most elegant literary institution in America. JTRAVBLS lUm yamplr .which I saw, they have a richneas of iatelleot, and H cheeriuhieas of deportment, that makes them Inity inte- mitiDg, . Altogether, Boston is really a fine place. It vm here that the revolution originated, which terminated in the independence of America; and the town is justly oelehmted as being the birth-place of that great luminary in. literature and science, Dr. Franklin. ,f During my stay in Boston, which was only a few days, 1 'Wetit to a number of the public places ; among others, the State^ijouse, from whence there is a most elegant view of the town,, bay, shipping, neck, bridges, and the whole countiy round, to the distance of from twelve to fiibeen miles, ip each direction, presenting most picturesque scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one direction, you can see ^wenty miles out at sea, and in ano> ther, a mountain, said to be distant «ixty miles. / The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, beings works of great extent and utili^, and constructed at a vast expenc^i a proof of the sagacity and persevering industry of this people. West Boston Bridge is upwards of 3000 feet longy and a causeway is conniected with it 3000 more, connecting Boston with Cambridge, Chairlea River Bridge is 1500 feet long, and^ Maiden Bridge is upwards of 2400 feet long. They sre aU built of wood, and have draws in the middle* The toll is reasonable. Long Wharf has already been noticed. The Museum contains a. very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities. Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o^dcck in the morning, I set. out by the stage for Salem, distant about sevefiteen miles. After crossing by Charles River Bridge^ abeady noticed, we passed through Charlestown, a handsome town, which is only separated from Boston by Charles River. m « It oontains about 3000 inhabitants, and has two places of public wonhip. The United States have a nsLvy-yvrd and nnrine hospital here, and, towards the west end of the town, dose by the river side, is the State>Prison, on the same ptmoiple as those at Philadelphia and New York, and mad to be under excellent management. At the north side of the town is Bunker's Hill, celebrated in the history of the American revolution. * ' " ^ Leaving Charlestown, and travelling little more than a mile, by the sea-coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which we passed by a bridge 2420 feet long, and constructed upon the sanie principle as those ak^eady mentioned. About four miles fix)m thence, we passed an extenave swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a very large size. At the farther end of the swamp we passed a floating bridge, and a litde after, ascending the bank, we arrived at Lynn, where ive stopped to change horses, at a very elegant tavern. Lynn is a prettj' little town, remaHt- able for its extensive manufacture of shoes. From thence we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, through a very rugged, stony country, but by an excellent turnpike road, made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here trice occasion to remark^ that the Irish emigrants are ex. ceedingly useful in this country, and a great pordon of the most rugged labour in it is performed by them. The lower orders of the Irish are generally strong, robust men, without money, and with a very slender education. Hence they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile employ- ment, and those who have not learned some mechanical profession get employment in various branches of labour, for which they are well adapted; and, getting good wages, they soon become independent and happy. Hence the # ¥»: > the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest slwfjj'pwner in America, having a vast. number of squdre-rigged vesn sels, many of which are in the India trade. One of these vessels was coming into port while I stood on the. .wharf, and it appeared it would be with consid^^le difficulty she would get into the harbour, tlie entrance being very • IK MASHACHtJSEttS. m ^^^' shallow ; and I was informed, that, ih consequence of thb circumstance, Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston. On my return to the Coffee-House^ I found the follow- ' ing sentiment in one of the Salem newspapers : " There is Kason to fear that a peace will at length be concluded ^ between France and Britain ; and if that unfortunately }x, the case, the independence of the latter is gone for ever, and we may soon look for an attack upon the liberties of America." In the course of my travels through the United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments, principally from those professing the greatest regard for Britain ; but I must say, that Aey appear to me to be very incorrect. I grant it is better for Britain, or any other nation, to continue in a state of war, than to make a dishonourable peace, or to submit to have their rights in- fringed by their neighbours ; but the sentiment in question, unqualified as it is, seem.s to breathe a wish for eternal war. It expressed a dread of Britain making peace at ^I, and considers war and independence so intimately allied, that the one cannot be given up without the other. But, in my opinion, the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is the present war— one of the greatest blessings to that country would be an honourable and lasting peace. As to the supposed attack upon the liberties of America, I think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the sub- ject, and %nplies an idea highly derogatory to the Ameri- can character. It is perfectly obvious to me, from what I have seen in this countrv, that the Americans could maintain their liberties against the whole world combined, and no single nation, however powerful, would be mad enough to make* an attack, which would infallibly end in disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards of six %' 0k ,, TB^^^mM iK^ jsSQkios^.f3l^free piopie^ aiM)» if invaded, couldy at a short notice, turn out a millioii of fightinfr men. This &ct is weUi known in Europe, and would, of coune, enter into the calculation of any general who would plan an attack ^iipon the country. He could^not hope for success with- out, at least, an equal number ; and we may safely pre. sume, that such an army will never be sent three thou- sand miles, on an expedition, which, though succeaaftil, would not pay one thousandth part of the expence. The altemoon continued wet, and rather cokL I re- turned to Boston in the evening by the stage. 1 # i% '' • r ,1% GHAFTER XtH. JVi?w HampsJi^ire, ^ii\' Being at iJie extwmlty «f iny journey to 'tte iio«ii- etttwaid, aond in the fhetropoUs of the New Englaihd irtsMt^. I diall, before leaving it, talce a view of the stutes cf New Hampshire and Vermont. ^ NEW HAMPSHIRE Is situated between 42^ 42^ and 45^13' north Mitu^e, and 4° 23' and 19° Wf east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, and its greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491 square miles, contsuning 6,074,240 acres. The state has about 15 miles of sea-coast, from whencti it extends in breadth, and is generally level towards the sea, rismg graduaMy from 20 to 30 miles, when the moun- tains commence, and these are more lofty than in vsKf other part of the United States ; the White Mountains being visible 30 mUes out at sea, and computed by Dr. Bel^ knap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. WiHiams at 7800. Ther^ are iarge and rich valleys among the mountains, and 'k number lof level phuns along Connecticut river. Th^ are several lakes in the state, but none of any great' im^ pQFtance, except Wimnpiseogeey near Ae centre, 24 miles long, and of unequal breadth, fix)m 3 to 12 miles. It is VOL. I. n yCWi«AMPBHIRE. full of hlands, and, beings navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves a considerable convenience to that part of the country. The principal river is Connec- ticut, which is the boundary line between this state and Vermont. The Piscataquii^is the boundary line, for a lit- tie way, between this state and the district of Maine ; and forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hamp- shire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the A 3m«r «Ain»iinit#; # ex})Qrtsitioii. The other manufiictures are^ashcs, maple- iugw* hntks^ pottery, and iron wast. ^ > . A great part of the surplus produce of thb state is car. ried to Boston, which prevents it fixmn making a great figure in the scale of exports ) the amount, ii^l805, was 608,408 dollars, but it sddom exceeds half a miCion. All the export trade centres at Portnnouth. The inhabitants arc represented as hardy, robust, and active. Education has been vciy well attended to. There is a college at Dartmouth, Supported by a fimd of 80,000 acres of land, and there are a number of academies^ schools, and public libraries. ^ ^^ / The govenunent is founded upon a bill of lights, declar- ing that all men are bom equally free and independent; and that all government originates from the people: that every man has a right to worship God accorcyng to the dictates of his conscience : that all electioas ought to be fr^ and that eveiy inhabitsuit of the state, having the proper qualifications, has an equal right to eleet, ai^d be elected, into office : that there shall be no hereditary rights, and the press shall be free. The exercise of ths government is vested in a Icgisla- ture, consisting <^ a senate and house of rqiresenatives ; a governor and council to execute the laws ; and a judiciary to promote justice between man and man. The senate cons^ssessed^a fisehoM o£>C« XO0. The ggMRor isyin # NEW RAVPSHTRE. 10^ like manner, elected annually, and must be possessed of a ireehold of £, 500« There are five counsellors, who are chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of £, 300. ' . The following extr^ Ufo^ t)ie constitution ought to be generally known. ** Knowledge and leanpng;, generally diffused through a community, being essential to the presorvation of a firee government; and spreading the opportumties and advan- tages of education through the various parts of the coun- try, b^ii^g highly conducive to promote thb end } it shall be the duty of the legislators and magistrates, in aU future penods of this government^ to cherish the interest of litera- ture and the sciences, and all seminaries and public schools^ to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and immunHie^ for thei promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences^ commerce, tradct manu&ctures, and natural history of thp country; to coimtenance and inculcate ^ principles of humanity and general benevolence; public aqd private ch%iiy, industry and economy, honesty and punctuality^ sincerity, sobriety, and all social affections, and Generous sentiments, among the people." t ■.■ft4i-f^,r/t ^'m\ ,». . • ma TEBHONT. i .>■;■•/; • ; •#*; Vermont Is situaHfed betwcei 42® 42' and 45« north latitude, and 3* 38^ aiid 5" 27' east lon^tude. it is 166 milei long, and its gteate^ breadth is 93 itiites. Its area is about 10,237 square miles, or 6;55 1,680 atres. ' i* > --^^ -'This state is mostly hilly^bi!!* libt rocky, Mid towards Canada it is' level. An extehislVe' ehain ^of high m<>untmns runs through the middle, nearly south smd north, which abounds with elegant scenery. ' Amon'g these there atrebeau- ti^l and fertile Valkys ; and the whole is finely watered with spnngs. Lake Cha^m]plain and its waters divides the state from N^ York on" the west ; and the Connecticut river from New Hampshire on the east. There- are several rivers towards Canada. No part of> the state is on the seaboard. ' • • -^'i* ^^tmi^u ^a:Lv:mmi^j- Iron is ibund in abundance throughout the state. Lead, copperas, flint, and vitriol have been found, and the west side of the state abounds With marble. This state, not^vithstanding its mountains, contains a great deal of excellent soil. The climate is similar to New Hampshire. ^' The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by the adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York; but the inhabitants wished it to become an independent ftate in 1777, and the grten mountain boys, aah^lhey were l^SBMONT. m called^ took a very active jart in the war of the revolution; bift they did not succeed in establishing their (^laim of in* dependence till 1791, when they were adkmtted, a'I4th state, into the union. The state constitution was adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends t^Q. senators, and^ fo]^ representatives, to congress. ". ;^^w, t i,Hnl "IT , a. The state is divided into 12 counties, aoAiQ46 towni ships, of six miles square. . The populatii!mj>1:^the ceiisus of 1800, was 154j465, being upwardsiof 15 to daei square mile. ■- .■ riw^wm^^^tii • .' .L : fbtxa^BUmuM m : > Vermont being off the- seacoast, or^ as . it '^is, soihetimd^ termed, &r from a market, there are no large' commercisd cities ; but there are a number of litde towns, few oi which have more than two thous^d inhabitants, i ^: ^^'j : fiifbWpt^ MoNTPELLiER is the Seat of government, ffind eontiuhs 150O; Bennington 22i50, Windsor 2200, Rudand 213d, Newbury 2000, Manchester 2000, Newfane 1700; ^ Albans 1400, Middlebury 1260, Burlmgton 1100, St Hero lOOC Craftsbury 1000, Brunswick 1000.. " v ! i> The great business of the state is agriculture, in ^luch the inhabitants are said to have made considerable pro- gress. , The soil is generally more productive than that of New Hampshire* The produce is neariy the same. The brows of the mountains answer well for grazing, and they raise great stores of beef and pork, with excellent butter and cheese for market ; and of kite they have made great progress in raising sheep and wool. ' vfi The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind, consisting of wool and flax for family use. Iron is m^u- fectured, and a considerable quantity of pot and pearl ashes. *» # 104 ^^BBllOlffr^ • TJns only external tiadc. of.; Vermont is withx^r^bada^ and the elports,. in 1^5^ amounted to 169,403 doUats ; biit the atole has a x^onsiderabk comifttntey thnnigfa thto medium of its rivers^ with NeW York, Hartford, , and Bostc^ The inhabitants are representedy by trayelierswhom I ha^e convened withy as being hardy> robust, fiili«fealiited^ and florid in their ecnaaplexiotls. . As diey' are indsdy all agricaltumlistt or mecfaaniGs, they ate independent in their sentiments, and, their wants being mostly supplied among themselves,, they are not subject to great vicissitude^ of ibrtune, and are generally weakhy in proportion aa (they are industrious.* The sysitem df education partakea of ihb equality : they h»ve t?iliro semikiaries for the higiher branched of eduealbn« but ^ chief objett of the legblatore has been t6 ptovkle 1^ the general difiusion of knowledge, b^ hxf'mg 'eMtm^ scho&ls iR tyery township: a fdan high^ j)faiseworfhy)y jand wiiich c^rety eommimity ou^ to imitate..' .-^si^mr ■•:)■■ ' The dedamtion of rights is nearly the same as that of New Hanq>8hire; but they have an article declanng that no nfimk bom m the country, or brought over se^, can be held in bondage after 21, and no ^male after 18 years of The plan of government is legislative, executire, and judiciary^, The legislative power is Vested in representa- tives chosen annually, every free male of 2\ years and Up^ivards, who pays taxes, having a vote. The executive is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, and council of 12, chosen annually in like mamier. And in order ^ that the freedom of the commonwealth may be kept in- molate for ever," a council of censors is chosen once in ♦ ♦ YBBMONT. lOS seVen years, ivhose duty it is to see that tiie constitiitiori has been preserved inviolate; whether the taxes have beeii paid, and the public monies properly disposed of; whe^' ther the public servants have done their duty, and the laws been duly executed;, and .they are empowered, it they judge it necessary, to call a convention^ to meet two years after their sitting, to revise ^, atnend the cioiisti-^' tution. ■■ ■ " ''' ri 1;' i[' '•^ ■ # ■ ■'-■■■■ *■■ i ?r ivyu '')'< f T TSATBIiS IN • '3e (Br: ;- 'Having taken my leave of a number of kind friends, with whom I had associated during my stay in Boston, I ^engaged a pass^ by the mail stage for New York, and \vas called to take my place on the 4th of September, at 2 o'clock in the morning. It is the practice here for the driver to call on the passengers before setting out, and it ^^ is attended with a considerable degree of convenience to ^* them, particularly when they set out early in the morning. "i' ^ The mail stages here are altogether difierent in construe- '^^ tion from the mail coaches in Britain^ They are long machines, hung upon leather braces, with three 'seats across, of a sufficient length to accommodate three persons each, who all sit with their faces towards the horses. The driver sits under cover, without any division between him and the passengers ; and there is room for a person to sit on each side of him. The driver, by the post-office re- gulations, must be a white man, and he has the charge of the mail, which is placed in a box below his seat. There is no guard. The passengers' luggage is put below the seats, or tied on behind the stage. They put nothing on the top, and they take no outside passengers. The stages are slightly built, and the roof suspended on pillars; with a curtain, to be let down or folded up at pleasuitu The t Hll»^ftiflBn d friends, Boston, I ifork, and :ember, at ere for the ;>yt, and it ^e^ence to e morning, n construe- y are long three seats persons IS. The itween him irson to sit it-office re- charge of It.* There |t below the notlung on Tlie stages' lillars i with I sure. The | MASrACttV^TTS. Wt^ conveyance is easy, and in summer very Agreeable ; but it must be exccsaiveJy cold in winter. .f '^ . !- • There was an Englishman, a facetio^ merry fellow^ who lodged at Chsqspotin's, and took his> passage along with me. On taking our places, we found a kwLy paaseni ger already in the «tage, and our company was afterwards augmented by three more, namely, < a gentkman from the West Indies, one from Hudson, and a young lady. By the time we got all the passengers and the mgJUon boardy it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston by West Boston biidge ; and three miles beyond it we pa^d through Cambridge, which, at that early hour, I could not see, but I learned that the situation is hand^' same, and that it contains a university, which is reputed the best literary mstitution in the United States. It was established in 163B, and has now four large buildings, with accommodations sufficient to contain upwards iof 200 students j who attend it annually, and are instructed in all the various branches of hunum knowledge. Alt&dtim ed to tiie institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small museum, and a very extensive library. The village of Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants^ The houses are mostiy built of wood. The public buildings are, be- sides tlie university^ a court-house, an episcopal, and a coi^r^gational church. ^:: i We travelled 13 miles before we had fair day-li^t, du- ring which, we passed through Watertown and Wahham, to Weston. It is to beii, obseh^ed, lliat towns, in the New England states, do not always imply a collection of houses in one pkM:e,^ sufficient to form a village. The whole country is divided into districts, of about six miles sqfuare each, and these are lalled towns, whether they be thickly ^«... t -— T .f i0d TBAV1IL8 VX^V. settled or not. The arrangement of ^heae tdwni, is aoine^ what assimilated to the parishes in iBcotland, having each a separate jurisdiction within itself, wliich regulates the aifiurs of religion and of education, and makes proviuon ibr the poor. Th^ ave also of great importance m the ekcdons, whieh are conducted throughout the whole state in one day, the people voting in their respective towns, which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and confusion. In travelling through the country, you go from one town to another, and are never out of one ; it is; therefiare, only where i the towns contain villages, that I mean to notice th^m, and, in giving the population, it is to be obsen^, that it includes the whole of the township, that beingonfusaon. one town t to notice obsen^, being^the m, which Bits. The £ly settled, WestboKNi^; and, 45 miles from Boston, we arrived at WoaCESTER. mtlfm^-'^- . This is a pretty place, and said to be one of the largest inland towns in the state, (t is the capital of a county to which it gives the name^ and is situated in a pleasant val- Iqr, mostly on one street, which is broad and handsome. The houses are generally of wood, painted white ; and are in number about 400. The mhabitants amount to about 2500. The public buildings are a court-house^ jail, and two congregational churches. They have a pretty extensive inland trade at this place, and the printing-busi- ness has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas, who is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is proposed to open an inland i^vigation between this place ind Providence, distant about 40 miles, and if it should take place, it is supposed that it will be attended with great advantage. ■ \^ iVikFrom hence we passed through Leicester and Spencer, ' and, getting into a hiliy country, we continued our course to BrookfiEljd, about 21 miles from Worcester. This b a handsome post^own, situated on Quebang river, 20 miles above its junction with Connecticut river ; and in a rich^ fertile country, abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and l| vegetables. It contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has ^ foiu* places for public worship. The river abounds with fiih; smd the countxy round contains great quantities of iron ore. Seven miles from hence we reached Western, 73 miles from Boston ;iaid here ds^-light having failed us, my ob- servations on the scenery of the country were, terminated * for the day i ■•iK^'i-H"' ?%>?fc' ix.vtii^i::i^ ' :; mfmm>w^'i^,f^-^ys^w8, aquiline noses(»-)and beaiitifiil twinklers, which probably would have lasted half ah hour, had wo not been edited axi^y to'take ^ii^^eats in the stage. We soon observed that all pardes ivere not pdeasiedf for we heaid the Yfmked bKUigrunibling as wb Ipa^qed them ; and thotYooke^ lady passenger* observed, witha/tossof her head, that she could not see what we all had to make such a fuas about. At 10o*clock we reached Springfield, said to be a handsome and thriving town, situated on the east side of the Connecticut river, 97 miles from Boston. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable inlaiid trade; and have established a respectable manufactory of fire-arms. The public buildings are a court-house and a congregational church. The Connecticut River, on which Springfield is situated, is one of the most considerable and important in the United States. It rises on the high lands which sepa- rate the states of V^mont and New Hampshire fix)m Upper Canada; and pursuing a course a little to the west of south, • falls into Long Island Sound; its length,' including its windings, being about 300 miles. It forms the boundary line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and passes through the interior of Massachusetts and Connecticut. Its banks are hi^y cultivated and thickly settled, through its whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which there is only 10 feet water, and interiorly it is much ob- 112 TRATSL8 IK structcd by fiills; but it is navigable for sea Vessels to Hart- fofd; and there is a great trade on the river above that place; fxirticulaiijr downwuds, in flat^bottomed boats. The river abounds with salmon, and other fish. It n in contempla- tion to improve the navigation by locks at several places, and to connect it with Merrimac river, distant 50 miles, by a canal. . Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along its west bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Connecticut, where we stopped for the night Here I suspend my ac- count of the journey to take a short review of the interest- ing state of Massachusetts. A^ .t\ .. ..>^iir>'- i>r ' , "! ■ .,.J ' ihi^i. '■ : ■ • I , I). 'MtJ^iKJ ' • .;. . *! V, . i I ,.■. ,.v,', .1*, , , V . f ■.'.». MA83ACIIU8ETT8. 113 !0 Hflft- rt place; "he river itempla- l places, i^esjbj •ly along nccticut, i my ac- : ustereflt- .liiucin , - J - - • CHAPTER XVI. .a., Massachusetts '.SSfiXi^ ..'t^ Is situated between 41® 13' and 42«» 52' north latitude, and 3® 28' and 7° east longitude. Its extreme length is 190 miles, and its greatest breadth 100. Its square con tents is 8765 miles, being about 5,609,600 acres The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The coast, on the east side, is indented with bays, and studded mth islands, which afford ample harbours for shipping; and support a hardy race of sailors and fishermen. To- ward the middle the surface is agreeably uneven, and the west swells out into mountains, s6me of which are of very considerable height. The state is well watered, abound- ing in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Merrimac, already noticed. The principal mineral is iron, of which the state pro- duces a great quantity. A copper mine has been disco- vered ; and there are considerable quantities of clays and ochres, and slate, marble, and limestone. The soil b various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy and barren. In the interior it improves ; and toward the western parts, where the country is hill^r, it is best adapted for grazing. Wheat crops are not abundant, but it pro- duces Indian, corn, rye, barley, and oats. Vegetables and firuit come to great perfection, and are of much value VOL.- I. -•'''-■ p ,it X. ^:!.....,..u.u^J.^r IJLjt yi89,«:C|IU9BTTS. in the state. Flax and some hemp aiie cultivated; and hops grow luxuriantly. • - ^ , »**^^ ^-^.v i vr The climate is very miich assimilated to that of Rhode Island. Toward the west, the winters aie more cold and severe than on the co^st^ but the w,ei^;ther is more steady, and the whole is healthy. Massachusetts was first settled, in 1620, by a colony of puritans from Holland, who had been driven thence from England, 20 yejtfs before. Thes^e arrived and settled ^ jpiypiouth ; and eight years tliereafter, another colony ar- rived from Ei^glai^, and settled at 3^em. These cplo- nies soon encreai^d, and laid the founds^tion for a powerful state, now one of the first- in the union. The revolution ori^ated in Massachu^tts, wfiich bore m actjve share throughout the war. ^t now sends 17 representatives pnd tw9i senators tp the congress of the United States. ^^assachuseftis proper, is divided into J^ coun^ps and 279 tp^vnships. The inliabitants^ by last cen$ui», amount- eji to 422,845; being about 48 tp the square niile. :; The state is well cultivated ^nd abounds wid^ ^ycalth. Boston is the capital, an^ thp next tpwij in importance is Salem. Thpse, and ^ever^ 'Others^ have beoi notioed. Of Uie ren^ainder, th<2 most important is Marbleheady a sea-port containing upwards of 5000 inhabitants. Newt^ij. ryport, is a handsome sea-port, containing ne^ly 6000 in- habitants, and has several manu|^ctones» a^ a large ^ip- pijig trade. Ipsrwich contains 3000 inhabitants ; and ping than any other state in the Uhibh. The exports, in 1805, amountied to 19,43^657 doUbrs ; but 14,758,6015 dollars consisted of foreign proi duce, and, of the remainder, a considerable portibtl Wa^ that of other states. The state has very extensive fishe- ries, the product of which is annually of ^Teat value. The state of society is a good deal' aSsiuiHated to that of Rhode Island, described in the tenth chapter, with this essential difference, that' slavery is totally abolished in all' its branches. The air is, like that of Britain, '^ too pure for a slave to live in ;" and, with regard to the white people, I ihink it is ** more pure,'* for here they are all on an equal footing, having neither uobles, nor priests, nor rents, nor tythes. The religious matters, like the state of Rhode Island, and^ indeed, all the other states, ai'e managed by each religious sect In its own way, who are not suflfered to interfere with the civil rijghts of their neighbours, so that the sting is drawn out of the tdl of the scorpion of reli- gious discord; No sect is d^titd above another; and all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they en- joy, in the protection of equal laws. The literary, humane, and, other institutions are numerous, and exhibit a £ur trait of the character of the inhabitants. . w ^,,,. Qn the subject of literature, the constitution declfirjes, that '* wisdom and knowledge, as well as virtue, diffused generally among the body of the people, being necessary for the preservation of their rights and liberties ; and as these de- pend on spreading the opportunities and advantages of edu. cation, in the various parts of the country, and among the dijBerePit orders of the people, it shall be the duty of the. le- gislatures and magbtrates, in all future periods of the commonwealth, to cherish the interests of literature and the sciences, ^n4 all senunaries of them; especially the university at Cambridge, public schools, and grammar, schools in the town§ ; to encourage private societies and and public institutions, by rewards and immunities, for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences,, commercci trades, manufactures, and a natural history of the countr}-; to ^countenance and .inculcate the principles of humanity and g^ieral benevolence, public and private charity,. in» dustry and frugality, honesty and punctuality in their deal- ings ; smcerity, good-humour, and all social affections and generous sentiments among the people." Dr» Morse says, ** According to the laws of this common- wealth, every town having 50 householders or upwards, is to be provided with one or more schoolmasters, to teach chil- dren and youth to read and write, and instruct them in the English langua^, arithmetic, orthography, and decent be- haviour; and where, any town has 200 families, there is also to be agrarnxnar-school set up therein, and some dis- creet person^ weU instructedinthe Latin, Greeks and Eng- * M A88 ACfB17SETT|« 1 If lish languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably paid by the inhabitants. The penalty for neglect of schootsj in towns of 50 fiimilies, is;C*10; those of 100 families, £.20i and of 150/^.30. The state government is vested in a senate and house of r^iresentatives, styled the General Court; a governor, lieutenant-governor, and council. The senators are 40 in number, and are elected annually^ in districts; and the i'oters must be possessed of a freehold estate of £, 3, or any estate of the value of /.60f The representatives are elected annually, in townships : evoy corporate town coni- taining 150 rateable polls elect 1, those containing 375 elect 2, those containing 600 elect 3, and so on, making 225 the number for every additional representative.. The elec- tors must be possessed of the same property as for senar tors. The governor is S|tyled his exceUenct^, and must be possessed of a freehold oi ^, 1000. He is elected annually r by those qualified to vote for senators and representatives. The lieutenant-governor is styled his honour y and must have the same qualifications, and be elected in the same manner, as the governor. The coimcil consists of 9 per- sons, chosen from the senators by jdint ballot of the se- nators and representadves. The District of Maine is politically connected with Massachusetts, and is of great extent, being about 250 miles long by 192 broad, and contains an area of 34,000 square miles, or 21,760,000 acres. The first setdement took place about the year 1630 ; and the inhabitants, who have been greatly augmented by em^rations from the adjoining states, amounted, by the last census, to 151,719, being less than 4 to the square mile ; but they are rapidly increasing. There are a considereble number of totvns on'tliie' cdast, of which the cMef is Portland, which contains nearfy 4000 inhabituits, tod has a great and increasing trade. ¥M is the second in importance, and is a place of considerable business. HaUirwdly Wiseasiet, ahd Mdchias 'sxt cctoA- derable places^ to si^' nothing 6f Fassamaquoddtf,gi:^bti of Land^s End in CormbaUy or Johnny Gtdafs Ihus&i ait the very extremity of th^ Union, and which sends outa con- ^derable ntmiber of small vessels. * The land oA die scia-coast is stonly and l!iiri^; biit thefe are tracts of good land in the interior of tihe cdtihliy, which prodklce graih and fruits, and die country is remark- ably weHcdbulatedfi^ grazing. 'tbt principal ti^die consists in luimber and fish, of Which the inhabitants darty great quantities to the sea-ports of America, and to the West Indiies. The manufactures are principally of the domestic kind. The state of society is nearly d^i^^^ame as in Massadiu* setts. . ; The fece of the country is hilly, but not mountainous; and the coast is completely indented with bays and rivers, ^he winters are long and severe, with clear, setded wea- ther. The summers are short, but very agreeable. Of spring there is hardly aiiy; but the autumns are generally clear and healdiy. '■;, t G|l^Klt^TlCU7. Jll M ',r k •m i.' CHAPTER XVn. !!#>' •:«1T0^ ■ Hartfordy — J^ewhaveriy^ Stamford. •<\'j ■ ^^?5f September 5. We resumed our Jounwy this inorntng at 3 o^clock, and travelled towards Hartford, kdepbg near the banks of the river. The tnoming tite set^e apd clear, but a little cold. We could see notfaitig of the country at that early hour ; but \9€ were informed that it/was handsome^ and well improved. The road i^ level and good^ Ten miles from Suffield, tiis passed through ^m(/^r, a pleasant to^iH) situated on Windsor Feiry^ River, which We passed by a' wooden bridge. Wc mm had day^light, and an agreeable journey for six miles ferthei'i to Hartfonl,* which we reached fit 7 o'clock, to breakBeit. ' \r.:A:t^P " . ■■;■■' ■■. .^^?k. HaIitjoro is Mtendsome citf^, the capital of "CisftiSc* tieutj and is, alternately with Newfeiven, the ^t of k- gislatiicii lor the state. It is situated on Connecticut Ri* ver, at the head of slo^ navigation, 50 miles above Long Island sound. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossirtg one another at ri^ angles ; but they are not pav^d, and, when I saw them^ they were veiy muddy. The city con- sists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000 inhabitants*. The public buildings are the State-House, an elegant edifice, two congi'egational churches, and one * By the census pf 1810 they were 3,955. im w-tttATBLr'tir''.- episcopal church. The citizens cany cm e active com- merce, in all the products of the state, to the southern states and the West Indies y and they have a large share of country trade. Considerable manu&ctures are carried on with spirit, and air^ |itic^«k$iiijg> r IFhe marketat are well supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold at reasonable rates. On leavin^^ the city, we got an addition to our company, of some students going to-Newhaven, and sonie young ladies ; and we had a great deal of entertainment from the inemarks : of our facetious Englishmari, ivho began by questicHiing the stud^ts, why the citizens of Hartford had .n(^ paved the streets. They gave some account of it, wMch I do not recollect; but it> was notsatisf: iTeeds not the foreign aid of ornament, But is, when unadom'd, adorn'd the moat. ' ;.,,■, , ■■ ■ . . . ■/ ■ . ■ .' '> In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a very elegant country, where we had a number of fine views; and we reached the great, enlightened cily of Con- necticut, at 2 o'clock. Here we stopped for .dinner, and we had some little time to take a view of the town. Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding sceneiy is very fine, and the situation pleasant^ and &vou- rable for commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on Long Island Soimd, and covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a ri^ver on each side of it. The streets cross one another at right angles, and ^ere is a square in the middle, roimd l^lnch are the public buildings, which have a very handsome appearance. They are the colleges, State-House, three, congregational, and one episcopal VOL. I. <^ is considered the very best. The city contains nearly 6000 inhabitants^ who carry on a very active trade with New York and the West Indies; and they have esta- blished ConsidemMe manufactures) which are said to be in a thiiving state. We took our d^atture from Newhaven about- 4 o^dOckf and travelling thirteen miles through a pretty good tract of country, ak>ng the Sound, we readied ilii/. Jhif/^j a considerable town, having sevtinl ehurchesi and from thence, tlttou]g^ a country neariy similar, a^few miles, we passed the Housatonic River y by a letry. 'Das river rises about the borders of Massachusetts, and running a south-east course, the whole breadth of the state of Con- necticut, &lls into the Sound a Utde below where we crossed it. It is navigable to Derby, twelve miles up, and above t!)at is very important for n^ls and maohineTy; iiie country on its banks is said to be veiy romantic. Fbur miles Irom this river we passed Stratfirdf sl plea- i§ant town, and of -oonsiderable extent ; and now day-light £uled us, and terminated my observations. We continued our course through J^eij^A/ and Mr- wtdky ssdd t6 be considerable and pleasant towns ; and at 12 o'clock readied Stamford^ 44 miles from Newhaven, where we stopped for die night. In our way, we passed a number of rivers of ilifferior note, andfi^ of the eoun- try appeared to be rough, and the road vefjMbB^: but we Were informed that a new line of tun!i(||feij[^d was in forwardness, and would soon be fini^d,«r .,lw. qOJfN^CTICVT. JlSi3 '■%^ CHAFTBR XVni. ij'.*' Connecticut •^v Is skiiated lietw^en 41° a^ 42° north latitude, and 3° 20'^ And 5^ fast longitude; Its greatest length is 83 niile9> and ^ greateat i>readth 72. Its area is 4400 square miks, or 2,816,000 acres. • ': / 1 'P» faee flf #ie country is agreeaUy uneven. To the fputli the epa0l^e:(itends along the sound the whok length i0ftlpi?^laite, and ha^hwnyfiAe, inlets, which are higWy ad' Vai^qgfQyp ;to jefflwrnarccvt Towards the north-west the co^Miy swePa 0ul into high, bn^en, hiUy lands, but the^ aife no iiiount»aia» i THi§ faiilly country is said to be vevy rQnmim^< Whie fitote U remai&ably'weU watered^ abound- in^4«.^qi^r $tneam9« >'i^he pi^eipa] rivers are Connfaoti- eut^^wid Umsmimy.2i\ff9»l^ mentioned ; and the Thai9^ This last river is formed at Nocmch of two brandies, call- ed Shetufsket^aod lat^ m&s ; and thence runs a due south Goiirse^ 14 ii#PS, to the sound. It has a fine harbour, at New London^iBnd is navigable for sm^ vessels to Nor- wich.-- -I; i,:..- Iron ore is Ibund in the state, in great abundance, and l^id, Cf^^xer, .^od' zinc have also been discovered, though in itogfeat quantities. Pit^soalhas been found, but, I be- lieve, not kisnii&cient quantitjrto induce the inhabitants to dig for it.^ ; There are a number iof mineral springs in the state; Ihe most im|)ortant is in Lichfield county, which is 124 CONNECTICUT. t hi^y impregnated with carBonic acid gas, and sulphurat- ed hydrogen gas; and is said to be very useful in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheumatism, and those of the cutaneous kind. '■: The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy, dnd some very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great deal of good huid, and the state is remarkably well calcu- lated for grazing. - The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, pass- ing to the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very healthy, and the state abounds with remarkable instances of km. gevity. •• ■ •/ • ..K .''.,-: • The firs^ settlement Was made in 1ll!f year 1633) by some Dutch and English traders with the Indians; "Ih 1662, a charter was granted by Charies the 2d, wMch ^11 swerves as the baas of the me govemnffent; and^hfeh, fh>m the ign^wice of the British government^ at that lime, of the geography of the country, has involved some> ^- gukr disputes about land titles. Connecticut bore ai» ac- tive share in the war for independence;* and itow forms^ a •very important state in the union, sending two senators and seven representatives to congitess. ' The state is divided into eight countiies and 107 town- sl^ps. The population, in 1800, was 251^002; including 951 slaves, being about 57 to a squane 'mile. ^^^^ The country is highly improved, and abounds with handsome towns, villages, and ferm-houses^ There are five incorporated cities, viz. Bartjord, AfewAaven, Mw Londorty Norwick, and Mtddletawrii. The two &«t have been noticed. New London is handsomely situated on the Thames, and»has an excellent harbour, and extensive trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabit»its, and has COXNECTICUT. 125 a bttiky'and three houses for public worship; Nonmek is on the same river, at the head of navigation, and has nu- merous manufiictures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance company, an academy, and three places for pub> lie worship. Middietawn, situated on Connecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, contains about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. There is a bank, an insurance company, a court-house and two places for pub- lic worship in- the city. Lichfield is a fine town, contain- ing upwards of 4000 people* It is beautifully situated in an elevated part of the state, and has ^a court-house, meet- ing-house, and academy. JFethersfield is thfe oldest town in the state/ apd is remarkable for the Culture of onions. The other villages are num^poni, the whole state being studded with ^m, containi^ from 500 to 1500 or 2000 inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Danbury^ Wmdhamy Haddam^ and ToUand, The houses are gene- rally built of wood, on a handsome plan, and are painted wdiite; which gives the country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This enterprising little state first set the example of making turnpike roads in New England, and these and other good roads are so abundant, that travel- ling is facilitated in all directions. There are a number of bridges in the s^e, some of them constructed at great expenoe, which are of great utility. The agriculture of the state is in a condition which speaks volumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feu- did system, and no law of primogeniture ; hence there are no overgrown estates on the one hand, and few of those employed in agriculture are depressed by poverty on the other. The farms arc generally fixjm 50 to 500 acres-, id6 coMMCOTioirr. cukkated by a hardy, industrioua race, whose labour is rewarded by the bleaaing;! of heaven in *' peace* and health, and sweet content." But it is said, that all the sons of Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabun- dance of iht learned professions, pEirticularly in the law de- partment, who keep the state embroiled in litigation. ** God made man upright, but they have sought out many inventions." The produce of the state is wheat, rye, In- dian com, oats, barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large quantity, and some hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and fruit. The soil is well adapted to grazing, and vast quan- tities of cheese and'butter are made; and much pork is cured. Cyder is also made in great plenty and peti- tion. The farmers of Conne«tij|ut, and their femilies, are ge- nerally dressed in cloth of their own mannfiM^ture, which is substantial and good ; and there are considerafale and very important manu&ctures, on' a larger scale^ throughout tbe state, via. woollens, linens, cottons, leather of every description, hats, stockings, paper, wire, bells, soap, can- dles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, chaiaes, harness, &€i The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. The exports, in 1805, amounted to l,443,729dol. lars. They are principally to the West India islands, eon- sisting of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provi- sions. The imports consist of manufactured piece goods of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries. The population of Connecticut consists of fermers, me- chanics, rnanu&cturers, ministers of religion, inatruetors of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There am no idle people to be seen, although it is said that too many CONNECTIOUT. 127 ore engaged in the learned professions, and Connecticut sends out a full proportion of luminaries annually, to en- lighten other states. Education is upon an excellent foot- ing, and the school fund is more ample than that of any other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named Yale College, has been already noticed, and academies have been established at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Nor- wich, Windham, and Pomfret. The law directs that a gramnuur school shall be kept in every county town throughout the state ; but the great, popular, and perma- nent advantage on this branch, arises from the establish- ment of schools in every township, being an arrangement similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which pro* duoed similar effects, a general diffusion of knowledge, '* steady habits," and sobriety of manners. In religion, the form of church government is generally congregational or pre8b3rterian, but every other form may be freely exer- cised. The form of 'government is' derived from the an- cient charter; by which the legislative authority is vested in a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or cpun- aettors, and the representatives of the people, styled the Oeneral Assembly, They are divided into two branches, of which the governor, deputy governor, and assistants form one, and the representatives the other ; and no law can pass widiout the concurrence of both. The gover- nors and assistants are choseiji annually, and the represent tatives, who must not exceed two for each town, are chosen twice each year, ^he sufege is universal, every freeman who is of age haing a vote, without regard to propert}% .;s; •»♦ 128 TRAVELS IN w ■ CHAPTER XIX. ■• '%\<^- Horseneck, — Harlem., — New-York. September e. This momlng^ at a o'clock, we took our seats in the stage. I was diverted by sr dialogue be- tw^ the two drivers, in .^vhich the word ^ess occurred so^,^quently, that I could hardly hear any 'thing else. " I guess this string's n ^* For tfie Citiztiu ^f\\ must tie fi gv^t consolntion to poor iMr. -t«^!& friends, if he has any, toj l^eap that his insanity hicreases beyond all hopef» o(j recovery* i His C9m is truly pitiable x, I he works h^ ajt t^ ^de pf^Q^scMef'^making; bintiieisnot a good hsm4 fit it, fqr the Cfiseisr that the ntore he labours, th( lil^ore h§ iii laughed at^and his malady increases with eveij ^ f^Jn his paper of Thursday, September 18th, the spirit ^pifp^iecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets iiBtBld^ (^ a cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the |llhM>iMt8 of this lower WQiid. t** Spgaking of the rumours of peace between France and \ J^pgl^ndr he says, * we wiU: not believe it till we see it gazetted (meatung in thci X^pndon Gazette), and then,* says | he, * wewiWaver, thst the sun which dawns upon that i'i ,.«P«v WW YORK, 131 a piece in ited me to las made a as a retick very good is turn for event will be the darkest that ever rose (dnce the trans- gression of our first parents brought sin into the world.' This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining darkness. But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sun^ shine or moonshine/ are all alike to a lunatic. — He then goes on. * In a rcontinuance,' says he, ' of war only can Britain look for salvatbn. That star once extinguish- ed, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of the creatiop*'—- The devUitwill! And jMray, Mr; s-^*-*, will the moofSi shine darkness too? and will all thefrsts^ twinkle darkness? If that should be the case, you had better sell your |Mress^ and set up tallow-chandler. There will be more demand for candles than for new^pers, when those dark days come. *^ But as you are a man that write for a livelihood, and I suppose you find it hard wcnrk to rub on, I would ad- vise you, as a friend, not to lay out all your cash upon candle-making, for my opinion is, that, whether England make peace or not, or whether she is conquered or not conquered, that the sun will rise as glorious, and shine as bright on that day, as if no sueh triBing things had hap- |)ened." It appeared in the sequel, that Paine was correct in his opinion^ and the editor was gratified in his wish — there was no peace. vn ■ >^*?«<\^- ■.-> ■'^^m^'y-\^^' 132 ytmr YORK, ■J. r^'i"rtimt^:'h>:f ■ ) ■' ■ v^t-iy '^■^m^ CHAPTER XX. , ^'h New York. This ihteresting state is situated betWeen 40® 33' and 4j5« tt&rth latitude, and 3° 43' east, and 2«> 43' we^t lon^- tude?" its extrertie leingth, from east to west, bemg 340, aiid extreme breadth^ from noitftto sotith, 317 miles; but it is very irregular. The square contents amount to abdut 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres; being 1^8,000 square miles larger than Scotland. --'There is a vast viai^iety in' the fecfe of the country. Long Mand and Staten Island are ^tuated at its southern extre* itilty, and are interesting. The state is boundied by Gon- rtcfeticut on the east, 'New Jersey on die west, extending in breadth to the highlands, witli ah agreeably uiieven sur< face. Fit>m the highlands, about 50 miles abovie New York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous, and the hills continue to the extremity of the state northward, and to Utica westward. From thence to its western e2i- tfemity, nearly 300 miles, there is a most elegant country, rifch and wdl watered^ having spurs of the Allegany^ moun- tains on the one side, and oh the other the lakes Ontario and Erie, two of the finest sheets of water in the world. The lakes are so numerous, that the bare mention of the namek tif the most important must suffice in this place. Besides th^ large lakes, there are Lake Qhamplain^ Lake Oeorgey Oneida^ OnorKhgo, Skeneateless, Owascu, Ca- NSW TOKK. las )o 33' and ire^t longi- jeing 340, 17 miles; amount to €S ; being Ltry. Long hern extre- jd by Gon. extending ineven sur- ibove New unous, and northward, esteme^t- it country, ly^moun- :es Ontario the world, itionof the this place. »fom, Lake fosca, Ca- yuga, Seneca, Carumdagua, snd Chataughque. Tlie prin- cipal rivers are the Hudson, the Mohawk, the Oneida^ and the Genesee. The Hudson rises in the mountains, above the 44th degree of north latitude, pursues a south course about 250 miles, and forms a junction with the East River at New York. This river is navigable for sea vessels through the mountains to Albany and Troy ; and for smaller vessels, a considerable way above Troy. The tide flows 165 miles up this river; .The Mohawk rises near Oneida Lake, and, running a south-east course upwards of 100 miles, faUs into the Hudson 8 miles above Albany. The navigation of this river b obstructed by the Cohoes falls, near its outlet, and the litde &Us about 70 miles above that ; but goods and produce are carried by land between Albany and Shenectady, 15 miles; and there be- ing- a canal round the little falls, the navigation is complete to the portage near its source, where it communicates by ano^r canal with Wood Creek, and from thence with' Lake Ontario. Oneida River has its source (in .Oneida Lake, from whence it runs about 40 miles to Lake Onta* no. It is navigable by boats to the falls, where there is a portage, fit)m whence it is again navigable to the lake, and thence, through Wood Creek and the portage, to the Mohawk River. This river is of great importance,, as it forms part of the chain of communication betweeift the Hudson and the lakes ; and, through the medium of Se- neca River, it may, in process of time, form also an im- portant communication between Lake Ontario and the smaiUer but very important lakes in the interior of the country » Genesee River rises in the state of Penngylvania, and^ running a northern, course tlirough the Genesee country nearly lOOxnBes, falls into Lake Ontario. The 134 STEW YORK. navigation of this river is obstructed by fallsi but U abounds with mill-seats, and has rich, fertile banks. The great JRwer St, Laxvrence bounds the state on the north, to the easf of Lake Ontario, and receives several important streams in that district: and on the west is the Niagara River, the communication between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, on which are the Falls of Niagara, one of 'the greatest wonders in the world. This river is navigable to witliin 9 milefr of the falls; and again, from 2 miles above the falls to Lake Erie. The pcnrtage round the falls is 10 miles, and, were a canal cut, it would complete tlie navigation between the lakes, and open an inland navi- gation of gf eater extent than is to be found m the world. The head waters of the Allegany, Susc^hannab, and De^ laware Rivers are in the southern part of this state. ^ The state abounds with iron ore and lead; copper and zinc have been found in various places. Silver has been found, but in no great quantity. Marble abounds, and is of an excellent quality. Freestone and slate are in plenty, Plaster of Paris i^ found in great variety , and is used witfi good effect as raahure. Isinglass and su^bur are common ia miany places ; and coal has also been found, but in no great quantity. — The salt»springs at Onondago are very strongs and produce an immense quantity of that useful article. There are many stilphur<^^rings, and several au; springs, which last are probably the gas arising from the cconbustion of pit. coal. There is a medicin^ spring at Lebanon, which ai&rds a pleasant bath, air tiie tempemtttFe of 72^, and is mu4th frequented; but the most remarkable sprktgs in this stat6^' or, indeed^ in the United StateSf are those of Balaton and Saratoga. These waters aie highly medicinal, aodare of great efEcapy in (fyspepsia and other m- NEW YORK. 135 complaints; and are much frequented in the summer season. / ■^- .■■ •■ - , The soil, in such an extent of country^ must be va> rious. The southern and eastern {uut is a dry gravel, mixed with loam,' and is not very rich; the mountainouii part is pretty well adapted for grazing, and there are ripli valleys on the livers. The whole of the northern and western part is rich and fertile, except a- small portion bordering on the rState of Pennsylvania, which, however, is interspersed with fertile lands. / ; ^ The^imate is< also various. In that part which lies to the south of th^ higd^ands, it is remai^kably changeable; it experiences aH>^ regions of heat and, cold, and some- times a ohang^^cf 30 degrees in the course of 24 hours. Among the mountains, and along Lake Champlain, to- wards Canada^ ^winters are long and severe, and the summers are sometimes veiy sultry and hot. In tile wes- tern distiict, the climate is niore temperate, and the win- ters are subject to a good deal of rain; but the whole country is healthy, the neighbourhood of ponds- and un- drained morasses excepted* The winter commences about Cliristmas^ and ends with February; but March and April are sometimes oold months. ' Captain Hudson^ & Dutch navigator, discovered Hud- son's I^vcr, m the year 1609, and about the year 1615, the Dutch took formal possession of the country, and formed a settlement, at the mouth of Hudson's River, c^led New Amsterdam, and another 160 miles up the river, called Fort-Orange. In 1664, Charles II made a grant of the country to his brother, the duke of Yorie, amd an army of 3000 men )\vas sent -to take possession of it, which they easily accomplished, and <:hanged the name of New 1S6 XEW YOBK. Amsterdamrto Ntw Yorky and Fort Orange XoAUumy, In 1774, Ne\y York took an active part in tlie revolutionary war, and sent four .delegates to the gent^ral cotigcess. The state constitution yvs^ framed in 1777, and revised as it now stands in J80il» The state sends two senators and ^7 representativiea tp congress. % The state is divided into 43* counties, and about 300 townships. The population in 1800 was 536,203 inclu- ding 20,613 slaye;» ;, being about 11. to>^ square mile. ^^This state has. progressed rapidly in ipopulation, wealth, and improven^ents* There are four: incorporated cities, o£ which New York, already noticedij k the chief. The otfiers are Mbant/jf Mudsan, and Skemttdf^r Alb AN Y is the seat of government^ iuui contained, by the c^n^us of 1^00, about 7000 inhalMitants ; but they have singe much increased. It is a place ot considerable trade, and fast rising into importancciw. jififti , «i'ii«ftifu Hudson is. situated at the head of ship navigation,- and, though only laid out in 1784^ such has been the rapidity of its growth, that it contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 3000 inhabitants. They have here a very consider, able trade,; aiid elegant packets to and from New York* .Skenectady is a handsome, well-built city, on the Mo« hawk river, i|l6 niiles from ^Ibany, and, by Jie census of 1800, contained 5289 inhaj^itants. It is a place of consi- derable trade, and has a bank, a college, and three places for public worsMp. The other most important towns and villages are New* burgf PjQughkeepsiey Troy, Lamingburg, said Waterfifd^ on theJiudson ; Uticay Herkimer y and^Qmey on the Mo* hawk ; and SkeneatelesSy Ge^evoy Camndaiguay and -Buf- fab to the westward^j^ llie houses are generally substan- HBW YOBK. 137 tially built, and are a good deal siimlar to those in the New England states. The roads^ bridges, and canals are ftumerous, and of great importance. The agriculture of the state is far advanced. The sta« pie cOtiwAodity is flour, of which a vast quantity is made annually for exportation ; and the state raises all the other kinds of produce^ mentioned in the accbunt of the New ^gland' states. The manb&ctures of the state are considerable, and in- creasing ; particularly the articles of glass, ashes, iron- ware of various descriptions, leather of all kinds, hats, carriages, paper and printing, pottery ware, umbrellas, mathematical and musical instruments. The commerce of the state is exceedingly extended, and has been alluded to in the ac- couit of New York ; besides which, there is a great com- merce on the lakes and the St. Lawrence, with Canada. The society in this state is very mixed. The city and southern part of the state, and along the Hudson and Mo- hawk rivers, are mostly of Dutch, Scottish, and Irish ex- traction. To the west, the majority are New Englanders ; but the whole harmonise and unite in this free country, and will sooii form one mass of republicans. Educati6n was, for a time, considerably neglected ; but it is now well attended to, con^derable funds being appropriated to the support of it. There are several colleges in the state, and many academies : a taste for knowledge is increasing, and \vith it will increase the good sense of the community, a(nd every useful art. The government of the state is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, senate, and house of representeitives. The governor and lieutenant-governor are elected for three vears; the senators for four; and the assemblymen are VOL. K S ** 138 VBW TOBK. chosen annually* The necessary qualifications for the elec- tors, are six months residence in the state previous to the election ; the possession of a freehold of >C. 20 value, or to have rented a tenement of the value of 40 shillings yearly ; and to have been rated on the polls, and actually paid taxes to the state. The funds of this state are reported to be in a most flourishing situation ; and such is the increase in wealth and population, that it is considered one of the most im- portant states in the union. ^^1' # i>-' w^ ■''■■»'• w .7"''/'^»', jS".™^ ■ NIW IBIBBV. 139 ..:: GHAFTBR XXI. Jersey, — Brunswick^ — Princeton, — Treht&n, Wednesday, September 24. Having finished my business in New York, I took leave of my friends, and cross* ed Hudson's river, at 8 o'clock in the morning. The day was dull and cloudy, so that I could see but litde ; but being quite in the humour for making inquiries re- garding thb extennve country, I took my place on the fore-seat beside the driver. It surprised me to observe kow well informed this class of people are in America. In my journey through the New England states, I was high- ly gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they TiMde to my questions ; and I resolved to follow the same plan of obtaining information throu^iout my tour. ' We took our departure at 9 o'clock, from a little town edkd Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York, kad tmvelled a few miles through a country rather stony i&id sandy, to Bergen, a small viUage having a church, and said to be inhabited mostly by Dutch people. A little fimher OH, we reached Hackensack river, which we passed by a toll-bridge, and immediately entered into a very ex- tt^siv6 SWiMipy through wluch the road is cut at a consi- derable expence. This swamp is said to be 50 miles long, and about four broad, and abounds with grass of a very stinong kbfld, but it must be difficult to gather it. We saw, however^ that it had been all tut during the summer. We » i ^i 140 rukymia m were much molested with muaquetoes of a very large size, during our passage through it ; soon after which we pass- ed the Passaic river, and arrived at Newark, nine miles from New York. .4. »^ fiHackemack river ,i7bcs iof Ifew York state, and nmning a south-east course falls into Newark bay, a little below where we crossed it.^ It ^ navigable 15 miles up the country. Passaic river rises in the interior of the country, an^ mniung upwards of 50 miles, by a very winding course, £iUs 1 into Newark bay. It is navigable about 10 miles ; an^' about 14 miles from it^ outlet, th^ are falls on it of 70 f0et fierpendicular, which form one of the greatest curi- osities in* tlit stat^, and constitute a line situation for mill, seats* at which a cQttpn manufactoiy has been recently es- tablished. Mj» It '»!)•[- rr Newark U a beautiful village, regularly laid out in broad streets* on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabi- tants/ The public buildings are two places for public ytfxMpi a court-house, and academy. Considerable manu- factures isre carried on here, particularly of leather. The inhabitants have likewise a pretty extensive inhnd trade ; and have a bank to facilitate their commercial opcirattions. The country is well cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Newark b remarkable for the goodness of the cyder, of which a large quantity Is made here annually. # ;Si3^ mile^ beyond Newark is Elizabethtown, contaimng two churches and an acadismy* It is a pretty .little place, and the land itf its neighbourhood is fertile,, (and well culti- vated* '= ■-''^' ■'■•'■ V ■ Ton miles from thence, through a pretty fertile country, W^ re$i$hed PToodbridgej a small village, where wje stopped fof dinner, at 1 o'clock. .The day was rainy and disa- J* VBW JlBtBT. 141 gieetble, so that there was no great pleasure in viewing the oountiy ; and as to amusement in tlie stage, I could get none, for there was a surly.looking man from Charles- ton, who engrossed all the conversation, and lus whole talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody knew any thing of the matter, but himself. At half-past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36 miles from New York, where we crossed the Rariton River, by a wooden bridge. This i« one of the most considerdble rivers in New Jersey. It rises about 30 miles above this, and, running a south-east course, falls into Bariton Bay at Amboy. It is navigable to this place, by tvhich means a great trade is carried on with New York. Buif KswicK is an incorporated city, containing about 3000 inhabitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is not very handsome, but seems to be improving. It was originally settled moGttly by Dutch people, and there are thv^ Dutch churches. The other public buildings, worthy of notice, are the Court-House and Academy ; which Isyit is said to be a very thriving seminary. The lands in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky ; but we were informed that they raised pretty good crops, particu- l|iriy of grass, which had, throughout the whole of this district^ flourished very much of late, in consequence of the application of plaster of Paris. The {^emoon continued wet, and the road was veiy bad, through a level country, about 14 miles, when we passed a small place called Kingston: fix^ whence the road is much improved, and proceeds tlirough a fine country, and by an easy ascent, about three miles, to Frincetonj which we reached a litde after dark. We should have stopped here for the night ; but there \vqs a ^ .*. XA2 Commeneifment bidl at the stage-house, and wri were ihformed that we' must move on to Titnton, aAidt the night ivas ivet and dark, and we were sufficiently tired. I waa mdktified at this decisiont, for I wished very much tos^the:baiL -vn}-^''^ ' ■ '■'''■■' rv.^/i*.'., During the short time we stopped, I went into thebaH- rboih, where thi^ dance was going on, and almost the first object, that saluted my eyes, was Mi^ Gibbons, a dashing b^lte ih>m iSavannah. I tlioiight myself at homci Btlt'I tah't say I was so much pleased with the appear^ ance of the *' fair ones," as i was in Yankee-land. There was a great number of "elegant forms," and "hand* some iaces,^' but the ' dress was, generally spcsdking, showy, ' ^t neatM^ ihdicatiott of a bad taste ; and the most of them had large, tiirefe inch diameter sort of lings in their ears^ caUcd by some ctf< the students; ncit inaptly, ••Cupid^s Chariot wheelsv*'^ Nor did the dancings ^ease me. The music was a French cotilli^V to Whldh "^y f* $prawM sind4]»nm^&/h^'^^^^^l^ le tdutmisembh wafii the vkjty contrast to t^se soul-iiispiring reels and stiial^^>eys, which animate our Scots girls, and set them in moiioU) "their feet as pat to the music ws its echo." J^tered iik^'i^ conversation with some of the students and young ladies who were bye-standers, who answered my eii^ quiries with much affability; and I left the room with liegret, when I was called to take my passage in tfee stage. '> Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see tio;. thing, at that late hour, but I learned, that it is handsomely situated, on elevated ground, fkan whence there is a veiy fine view, through a well cultivated adjoining eountty. The number of dwelHne-houses is about 100, fihd the college is reputed one of the best seminai^ies in the United States. nxm JEBSEY. 143 Having got a number of ^ students as passengers, the stage was crowded ; and, on our way to Trenton, it broke down, by one of the braces giving way. It is cus- tomary, in Britain, to provide agsdnst an accident of this kind, by having an iron chain, to supply the place of the brace; and the contrivance being a very simple one, I thought it would have been adopted here; but to my surprise there was no chain, ai>d the defect was supplied by breaking down an honest man'^ fence, fou), jt^rusting a rail under the carriage, while the passengers stopd sibnost up to the ancles in the mud^ holding it up. Being fix^d in this way, we jolted on to Trenton, M^hich \ve reached near 12 o'clock at night. ^^ Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and .i9 situated on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and 66 fromv New York. It is a handsome tittle towii, con- taining about 200 houses. The pi^Uc buildings are, the state-house, a court-house, and episcopal Umrch, a pres- byterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and methodist meeting-hous^. O)' ■\ ■',.1*1^ 4^-^al * 144 N£W JfiRSI&Y^ ) J:.*. • ^ ■■;i%-v' 't^'^-i.^i!^-' ^*:'-. CHAPTER XXn. ■^ ^Jersey Is situated betwfal manufactories of cottons and woollens, on a large scale. Of iron, the manufactures are very extensive, and the quan- tity is considend>le of leather, glass, and paper. The state iias hardly any foreign commerce, nearly the whole being yt^,^anied on through the medium of New York and Phila- I idelphia. The principal sea-port is j^mboy, but ike dniect exports, anniudly, amount to only a £ew thousand dollars. <^The state is supplied with foreign goods through the large ^^cities already mentioned. The general dissemination o£ knowle^e through the state has not been attended to according to its importance. ^There are numerous seminaries for the highei' branches of literature, but the state seems defective in common schools. , I keep the parish schools in Scotland constantly in my t mind, and I regret when the system for the instruction of of the mass of the people does not come up to that standard. The government of this state is vested in a governor, ^'legislative council, and general assembly. The council consists of one member, and the assembly of three mem- bers from each county, chosen annually by the people. The gorvemor is chosen annually by the council and as- sembly. The qualification for a voter is jf. 50. The state is prospering, and increasing in population and wealth. ot ^ ff SAW: ,1 .vIOY fiiiti^ NEW aaiisfiT. m • ?jK m OHAPTEEXXra. Trenton Uriage, — Bristolf^-Philadelphta. Thursday, September 25th, w« set out from Tmi- ton, at 6 o'clock in the morning, and crossed tlie river Delaware by Trenton bridge. This bridge was finished in February- last, and being one of the ttiost elegant in the United States, and different in construction from any I have seen before, it merits a particular description. It consists of five arches of 194 feet span each, built of white pine, and supported on strong stone piers; the whole l^gth is 970 feet; the breadth 36. The arches are elevated over head by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage«^ way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the ' whole length of the bndge. Above the top of the arches the roof is covered in, so as to secure the whole from the weather ; and the carriage-way is divided into two sections* each of winch is appropriated to travellers in one direction. At die entrance, passengers are directed to take the road on the right hand. Upon the whole, this is a very elegant piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1804, and is the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr. The Delaware is a noble river. Its i^ead waters are in New York state, from whence it pursues a south-east course, formmg the boundary between that state and Pennsylvania, about 60 miles, and thence forms the boun- dary between Pennsylvania and ^^lew Jersey, upwards of Itt8 TBAVBL8 T» » «k loo more, to this place, where there are falls, but of no great height. From hence it increases in breadth, during a, course of 36 miles to Philadelphia, where it is a mile broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increases, and, 40 miles below ^Philadelphia, at NewcasUe, it is two miles broad, thence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and falls into the Atlantic ocean 70 miles below Newcastle, its outlet being 25 miles wide. It is navigable for vessels of any burden to Fhiladelphia ; for sloops and other small craft to Trenton, where it is obstructed by the falls; but above them it is navigable for boats upwards of 100 miles. ^. Immediately after passing this river we were in the state of Pennsylvania; and among; the first houses that. attracted my notice was Morrisville, the seat of general Moreau. It is a fine house, with elegant grounds about it, a^ I, have no doubt but the general finds it a happy retreat fro^i the tur- bulent scenes of Europe. I ;Could not pass this place with- out a great variety of reflections. General Moreau bore an active part in the Fre»fch revolu^on. and {supported a character in arms, rivalled Quly by that of Bonaparte him- self. He fought for republican principles, and braved every ^danger to establish them in his native landv His reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and he was m the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had served to establish,, when, by a sudden transition of fortune, that republic vanished from the earth: his great rival in arms was elevated to a throne; and he was exiled to the banks of the Delaware.. But happy, in my mind, is he who is thus exiled. A republican finds here a repub- lic, and the only republic on the face of the earth that ever deserved the name : wliere all are under die protec- tioii of equal laws ; of tews made by themselves; where PEKNSTLVAMIA. 14ft every man '* sits under his vine, and under his iig-tree, and none to make him afiraid ;" and where, far removed from the turbulence and din of maddened Europe, he can en- joy " health, and peace, and sweet content." From Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to Bristol. The road was good, and passes partly by the river side, through a level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The banks of the river are very beautiful, and adorned with many elegant villas. Bristol is a handsome village, on the banks of the river, and contains probably about 100 houses, many of them elegant. A few miles beyond Bristol we passed a considerable creek, and continuing our course near the river side, through a very fine country, we passed through IfHnkJbrd, five miles from Philadelphia. This is an elegant village, containing about 100 houses, and is a place of considerable resort for the inhabitants of Philadel- phiaj Inthe summer sea^n. A little beyond this we pass- ed a rising ground, called Prospect Hill, where we had the first viei^r qf Philadelphia. The road here is broad, and well mejtalled with broken stones, which renders travelling pretty rough, but L is good upon the whole. The country' is now rich and level, abounding in gardens and orchards; aild exhibits every appearance of the approach to a great city. On entering the city, I was quite deUghted with the regularity of the streets, and beauty of the buildings. The stage drove nearly a mile through the city, and I took up my residence at the Man^on-House Hotel, in Third- street. '•,**i-^.VjS? v:r^ 191^ TRATBLS IV ' . ! i- ' ;|^-i» .A.t. 1 ■ •>'<' ' • ; „■ .. . ^ ■ ■S/«i"ji>t». •■5^.*'' ' .' » , ^Ji*^,.' 4:5«^- s ■ nif APTF.» V1CTV: Philadelphia* 1 HIS city is situated between the Delaware g-hUla in the country, fj^om whence itmay be^kcn to^a^U^«t^<^ ground. In so^le cities that haice cpme und^r my observa^on, the price obtained for the manure, is more than equtil to the expcnce of keeping them clean. * ' 156 TAAVELB 1N^ ■r/. ' '•! * t ' , t u.-« ».-l»S4< ^'> ^jmisftamiiiitu *.'k^-v- iDHAPTER XXHI. Philadelphia^ — Heater-works, — State Prisma— Library ^ * ' — Museuniy — Falls of Sc) ^Fh£ two first days of my stajr in Pluliidelphia i^ wet and stormy, so that I could see but little. Itiblc a ride, in company with a friend,' to the floating briidge ' ^ 158 TftAviL« tirf df inoriculable advantiige to the health, as it certainly it to the convenience and comfort of the communhv. ' The BQj^ly of cities with water is a subject of great importance, and it is to be hoped that the inhtibitants of other places in the United States' wiH^pix^t l^ the lauda- bte example set them by the citizens of Philaidelphia^ and the happy effects which have resulted from it. The power of the steam-engine, properly applied, can send ln^ateT to any city, and cities are generally sufficiently opi^enl to bear the cxpence. All that is wantirtg is a proper |dat), put in motion by some of the leading^ In6n. Oft this brandi I have to notice, that a grear savings can be made from the application of the^/^mnj^pUm^, bywhiibh meaiis ^ wat^ can be conveyed toanyieasohable height and distance, by one engine. ^The conductor ihust; in* that iaae; be constructed of metallic tubes, whiolv'Can be made of any diameter, aiicoiding to the supply of ^tte wanted} aiid they nrii^ be fumishe#**With valves to prevent the^e* Kelion of the water. - ^ ^- '^^^I rinUalso^notice, In this place, tet filtration of thC'^wa- ter is a ^reat improvement, and it can be easHy done» to an^ exteht whatever^ by the application of a plan^ ^the^n* lieniidli^of a veiy ingenious mechanic in Scotland, which I shall here communiorte. I shall describe it from the model which I saw; the ap- plication to imy scale is easy. The model consisted of a easkv in which was inserted a fidse' bottom-about three inches above thd real^ tiottom^ The fidse bottom war per- forated with small bdes, and in the middle' was a^tube, dksvated a litde above the top of the cask, and^^wlttch formed aixx)mmunicatiou through the/*&lse bottom to the space below. The cask was filled idth gravel of a pro- PmNtTLYANIA. 159 per* kind fcr ;fi!tniftioii. The water was conveyed through the tube into, the space between the two bottoms, where it deposited the greater part of its sediment, and rising up- wanjia through the gravel, on the principle of a spring, nin over at the t<^ of the cask, pure and transparent. The efot was as complete as could be imagined. The water that he used waa very muddy, and was, by this simple contrivance,, rendered perfectly pure; the contrast being so great, that when it was exhibited in the di&rent states in clear wine*ghisses, the one, to use the inventor's ex- pression, was. like punch, the otheif, like pure spirits. ^ He informed: me that the gravel answered better at the time I viewed it, than it did at first, probably in conse- quence of the mud aheady deposited, attracting that in the water. He had not used it long enough to ascertain the period at which it would get too much choaked up by the mud; but heThe best mode of applying the plan upon a large scale would^ I diink, be this. To have a leservoir of from IQ to 20 feet deepj and of any dimensions that might be wanted for the purpose intended. Have it lined and bed- ded «rith he^^ stone, and divided mto three appaitments. Let one of these reeeive the water where it will deposit its sediment From tfience let it run into the second contain* ^- 'i; ji "'■;'' 160 fiMAVWM lib i kig. Ike fiber I md from Ihenoe be ooavcTtd into fheduni^ olear fomae. ^ It is to be observed, that the first of thesia apartmcnti mutt be elevated a little above the second, and the second above the third ; and< the elevation taay be* great or aniall, according to the late at which the watar' is required to circulate from the one to the other. From the Water^ Works ^ I went, accompanied by a firiend, to see the State-Prison. I was introduced to one of the inspectors, who was also one of the £9»unders of the institution. He accompanied us, and expli^ned the whole system very much to my sati^fiiction. . . This benevolent institution, owes its origin to the en* lig^itened citizens of Philadeiplua. Ita object is to receive the vicious, and, if possible^ to reclaim them to yirtiie; aiid is an admirable contrast to the aangumaiyi punishments of old govenunentsy.who, for even pecuniary vOffisnces, send them ofi* to the other world to be reclaimed jthere. This institution does not admit offenders till after cdnvic- tion, when they are received fit>m the d|ffefent ^pmWigS the state. It is hence called the State-Prison. Whcnii.Cri* minal b received^ his name ia put upon record, or, lo use a commercial idea, he becomes a partner in the concern, and an account is acocndingjy raised for him in the book^. Incpiiry is then made what ho can do ; if he can wprk at any, trade, he is taken to the apanment where liiat brancb is caitied on^ and baa his task assigned him. If. he can work at no trade, he jk sent to saw marble. Asa stimulus to industryi the eonvkts get credit in4he hooka for the proceeds of their labour, and are debited with the eispence Qfi their board and m the want of sufficiently large libraries. . In such circumstances, the establishment of a public library was an important event. This was first set on foot by Franklin, about the year 1731. Fifty per- sons subscribed forty shillings each, and agreed to pay ten shillings annually. The number increased, and, in 1742, the company was incorporated by the name cf < The Library Company of Philadelphia.' Several other companies were formed in this city, in imitation of it; and these were all, at length, united with the Library Company of Philadelphia, which thi^s received a conside* rable accession of books and property. It now ccmtains about 8000 volumes on all subjects, a philosophical ^pa- ratus; and a. good beginning towards a coUectioa <^ natu- PBNNflYLVANIA. 163 ral and artificial curiosities, besides landed property of considerable value. The company have lately buih an elegant house in Fifth-street, in the front of which will be a marble statue of their founder, Benjamin Franklin. " This institution was greatly encouraged by the friends of literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn family distinguished themselves by their donations.— > Among the earliest friends of this institution must be mentioned the late Peter CoUinson, the friend and cor- respondent of Dr. Franklin. He not only made conside- rable presents himself, and obtained many others from his friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage the business of the company in London, recommending books, pur- chasing and shipping them. His extensive knowledge, and zeal for the promotion of science, enabled him to exe- cute this important trust with the greatest advantage; and he continued to perform these services for more than 30' years, and uniformly refused to accept of any compel^ sation. During this time, he communicated to ^ direc- tors every information relative to improvements dnd disco- veries in the arts, agriculture, and philosophy. ** The beneficial influence of this institution was soon evident. The cheapness of the terms rendered it acqessi- ble to every one. Its advantages were not confined to the opulent. The citizens in the middle and lower walks of life were equally partakers of them. Hence, a degree of infor- mation was extended among all classes of the people, ivhich b very unusual in other places. The example was soon followed. Libraries were established in various pla- ces, and they are now become very numerous in the United States, particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be hoped that they will be still more wi('!eiy extended, and 164 TBAYBLt m that information will be every where increased. Thin wiU be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A na. tion of well-informed men» who have been taught to know and prize the rights which God has given them, cannot be enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny reigns. It flies before the light of science. Let the citi- zens of America, then, encourage institutions calculated to diffuse knowledge amongst the people ; and among these PUBLIC LIBRARIES are not the least important." . The library has been since removed to the building al- luded to in the above extract. It b elegant and com- modious, and has a statue of Franklin in front, the dona- tion of the late Mr. Bingham. The library now consists of more than 14,000 volumes, in all the various depart- ments of literature. It is divided into shares of 40 dol- lars each ; but the number is unlimited. The subscribers are at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annually,, to the support of the institution. The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2 o'clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the librar}% or be accommodated with books to read in their houses. The rule relative to strangers and non-sub- scribers is very liberal. They may have the use of the books in the library, while it is open, free of expence, or, on depositing the value, may borrow books and peruse them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of them, I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40 dollars of entry to a library too high, and two dollars of annual subscription too low. The great object of ^ libra- ryis to disseminate knowledge. *To secure that object, the library should be within the reach cS every member of % PBKNSTLVANIA^ 165 the community. But every one cannot affoitl to give 40 dollars at once, while the greater part of those who wish to read can afford more than two dollars a year. The class o£ people to whom an institution of this kind is the most valuable is young men entering into the world, many of whom could not, or would not willingly, advance 40 dollars, but who would cheerfully give four or five dollars a year. Would it not be a wise regulation to ac- pmmodate such? The most flourishing library, in point of funds, that I have heard of, is one iii London, where the entry is one guinea, and the annual subscription is the same. It is en- tirely public, unclogged with any idea of stock, or shares. The subscribers are above 1000, and the income b, of course, above 1000 guineas a year. The Glasgow public library is on a similar pbn, but with more limited funds, and is the most thriving institu- tion of the kind that has ever come under my observation^. From the library, we passed to Peale's Museum, which is a very excellent collection, principally of subjects in na- tural history, and does honour to the ingenuity and taste of the proprietor. Among other curiosities it contains an entire skeleton of the mammoth, well worth the attention of the naturalist. I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an ele- gant structure, consisting of three arches, built of woody supported by strong stone piers, and covered in on the top. The length of the bridge is 550 feet, besides the abutments and wing walls, which are 750 more. The span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of the other two 150 each. It is 42 fe«t wide. The foot- ways on each * See Appendix, No. 3. 166 TXAYBLS m ^ . ft.-' side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-nvay, which is divided into two parts, 32. The bridge, which was she years in building, was finished last year, and the expence was 235,000 dollars. September 28. Having visited every thing I Wished to see in the city, I was invited by a party of firiends to take a jaunt in the country. We crossed Schuylkill !>y .'he foresaid bridge, and travelled four or five miles, to see a flax spinning-mill, belonging to a gentleman from Dun> dee. The mill was not at work, but we were informed that the business was doing very well ; the produce was mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manu&cturer, we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner. The Schuylkill river ris^ in the mountains, about 120 m^es north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from Reading downwards to the upper fidls, three miles above where we stopped. The tide ri^es to the lower falls, where the river is about 150 yards broad. The fiills are much broken by huge masses of stone, v/ith which the bed and banks of the river abound. The banks are high- ly romantic, and are ornamented with many elegant coun- try seats. While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics, in which frequent appeals were made to me ; but I declined taking any share in the argument, for 1 did not fully agree with either party. Indeed, I saw pretty plamly that self-interest was at the bottom of it, and that the party- names they assumed were merely other terms for importers and manufacturers^ who conceiving that their interests were opposed to each other, blam^ the government of the United States — ^the one party for doing too much in sup* ""1 If. PBlOrSTLVANIA.^ 167 I Mshed friends to iiylkiU \yy Aes, to see rom Dun- ; mfoimed jduce was nufecturer, !, at a very linner. about 120 gable from liles above ower falls, le falls are which the is are high- gant coun- port of domeitic manufiustukcs, and the other for doing too lll^. . But aU was discussed in good humour. • After dinner, we returned, through a pleasant, well-culti- vated country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our ivay stqpped at Harrowgate, where there b a medicinal spring, which b a good deal frequented in the summer season. We returned to the city in the evening. The day was clear and pleasant, and the air cool and healthy. 168 ^.•. yeKKdYLVANIA/ ■1**' 'i-i, * ■••^ -.•' 'i •./.'. CHAPTER XXVI. .^ Pennsylvania. j^. This fine state is situated between 39* 43' and 42^ north latitude, and 52° 20' east, and 3° 30' west Lon^tude. ^tf^ It is 320 miles long, from east to west, and 162 miles broad ; and contains 49,390 square miles, being 31,609,600 , • acres. The fece of the country is remarkably diversified. The south-east part, to the distance of about 60 or 70 miles iirom Philadelphia, is an undulating country, swell-^ ing in some places into considerable hills, but is not moun- tainous. The mountainous region then commences, and extends across the country about 120 miles. The moun- tains are generally in long chains, running north-east and south-west. Between the chains, the country is rough and hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and west of the mountains, the countiy is elevated, abound- , * ihg with hills, valleys, and rich scenery ; which continue about 120 miles, to the extremity of the state. The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is situated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south-east, by both of which there are fine outlets, the one affording direct and speedy communication with thfe Atlantic Ocean, the other communicating with it by the more circuitous course of the river S-:. Lawrence ; // hS, FEmriTLYAXlA. diversified. ,ut 60 or 70 untry, swell- is not moun- mences, and The moun- )rth-east and is rough and the whole north and ;d, abound- lich continue Ite. Lake Erie bay on fine outlets, tication with Ig with it by Lawrence ; while k is a link in th^ duun of an inland navi^don, eiif- lending through the lakes upwards of a thouaand niiles. To the aouth^weatf the state communicaties wiUi the Ohio, havings an otidet through the Mississippi, to the Giilphof Mexico ; and, from the middle, there is an outktthrbugfi the Susqoeliamiah to the Chesapeak-bayb '^ - The riveH Delaware and Schuylkill have been already mentibned. 'Fhe most impoftant of the others I shdl notioe in their order from east to west. . *. .. v 2^mt^|j The \Lehigh rises among the mountains, between iIk Delawwe and Suaquehannah, and,> running a very erook«id passage^ emterges from the mountains abobt SCV milei from its Source, and from thence runs through a fine' country SO miles,' durnig^ which k is navigable, to Eastom where . it fidts kta the Delaware. i4i|: '^^Sbii'tShtiquiharimk^ is a noble river, and appeals on the map-likoa l|vg& crooked tree, with numerous^bcanches. The head waters of the eastern branch are nomerous^ and rise m^he state of New York, not £ir fix)m the watbs df^ the Mohawk riv«r. tPasung into the state of Pdnnsyli«tu«| k makes a remarkable bend, callbi^- appr^xpiateii}^ the' j9i(|^ tktkL: S^stm thence it makes a stretch into New^ Yoric, and passing to ^ westward, about 40 miles, turns, i^^^ the southwwdji Slid passes into the state of X^^^imiylvaiiia, where it terns a junction with the Tioga river «i 1I\q^ point. Itthenrunsasouth-eastcouvse, about 70miles; when laaking^a sudiden bend, at a right angle, it runs a ioiith<^ Hiest course^ about 8Q itHles, and unites with the westem branch, at Noithumberland. The river is now nearly Mf aiaUe btoad, and flows through the mountains^ nearly a south bourse «of « ^a miles, to where k roodnras lite Vol. r. 7 470 tzmnrtrMtmi, •Jimiltfli river. fVom thenoe It mdiM a cansidaable bend •toithe cutifmtdty land rutinkig about 10 miki^it emerges Arohi^thrnMNinttiiis^ilbove Hanisburg ;, and keepaa south'. leaA;«bilirierabout 90 mika, when itfiiU& intotfae Chenf. The Tioga river has ila head vaten^nrtljirliAPemiayl. yixxm^^ and |>artly ia New York^ where 9QBie«]£>llie streams afiindieli nvithiii a few miles of the watlbrs jof die St. Lawrence. These all unite in New. York alMe, towaudi iAe rPainted Post; and run a aoutb^eaafc eoiiiarKof >nearty NOviiiesi to the junction with the Su0quel0limh«n . , 4 a £^{(. The 'western, branch of the SusqiwtoiMh kJctmed b}^ ^nanyatreains,; beyond the AUegany r.iVM>i|iitaii)ak 9Qi»e of 4mai apfffoacbing within a few miies iof ib^^ waters of the St Lawrence, and others within aJbtrmyoftipf^the Waters fif ikss Ohio and Misaissij^ and mmi a v«iy eirouitous fioiiraepdupwards of 200 miteti,. princ^p^jr :a9M97tbe innuiit»iis»ritoi^Juiictio!i with the east branoliu Di,:^ii oii i ^ } nShm luniata nvtst nbes on the . AUegai^; mownlaiiia, liewtithe; head- wateraof the Coneonaugh, a bmieh^olf the ^Muo^vtad pasaing through: the mountains tiotrteeasitwanl, ilgr^i.iicR^r serpentine eaarte^ it &lls into te' Stttqftf IjJMmib •l(JafeiBM^y'ita.kngth^b^^ cy> ^rnV^^rr >i^Hiferkng!th of the Suai|ueha»Bab, ^am [|^ Chesf^eak- ||^i^ tjbeiiead qf the extern bmnchi$;is ^ftwrnMiOf^^O ieikmt ^uid itbe inrhbkmer, inolu^nigsi^ ivalersa «Hliili>;j nearly 200 miles square^ J^iiiniivig^afiirlocg)^ fKsaeta/cniy a few mk^ tad theitera*? ^numji; 9^ £iU% mdiieh tibstruct the navigation! lor boats^^ jbut iit ialfnesumfid rthat; these can be reaiiiolviQd»^Knd' t]|ill»i^;the sdAoSsaMoeiloakaaiid' oanajs, itcanNb<^]rea(iatfid 4mig»r ble^r almost ^o the source 2of the pastern branch. > The ivcsieiti branch is navigable^ fer tbootsji tmrliyiW^t/&^. Old the Juniata nvtt wuAy '120» . From this flhcH^; aQ**; count, the impcitancfr (>f improving the fiavigatiofi of UhH fine river will beTcadily inferrecU The AUegany River rises im the highest land in the stale, to the w es twai d of the mountains, withih a feur miles o£ the head* waters of the Geilesee River, and Ifaq western biaach> of the Susquehannah. It ii here caUo^ Oswaya Cfeek, and runs a;;tiQrth-^est cotinse into the ItHte of New York, atad, passing again' into the state of Pennsylvania, it receives the waters of. Conewongo Greek and Chataughque Lake. From thence it nms a n^inding course^ but generally south-west, toc^ Franklita^ where it receives the waters of French Creek. From Ithenoe it runs a circuitous ^course about 100 miles, receiving in its progress nlany tributary streamsf particularly Tdbyte Creek and Kishkemanetas River ; and at Pittsburg^formS a junction with the Monongahela, which together consti- tute die Ohk>. i . ..-'m ^ The AUegany is a navigable river, and the naviga- tbn is continued through French Creek to Waterfor^ firom wtKiice there is a portage of only 14 miles' to Lake Erie. Tlie navigation is extended into the country 20 oi* 25 m^Hidi by the Kishkemanetas River. ^« 4iif^;u.^ ^a i The M<)iMngtd)da rises in Virgiraa, near the Laurel tnountaini^ Sind^hmningbyameanderii^ course about 70 m^ -. ■■•<• <■ ■•. ''**: The climate is very various. Cfn the east ^ide o£ the lAUegany mountains it is pretty rimilar to iefsey, already descrUsed. It is, in common with ^le othec countries east of the mouiitauis^ subject to g^feat and sudden cfinages.; but it is considered more settled than immedi^t^y on t|ie sea-board, and is perfectly healthy^ The winter coynmencea about the SOth of Decemberr and the spring ^^ets in about two weeks eariier than at Mew York, 4wofig tb^rioiouif- latns there is a sharp atmosphere, witb; ai cle^j.f^j|Jed 't BUnrfTLTAMIA. 4 I7t ^ Then h finosi fllmost every month in the jreAr m «MBe.plaJoes} and the extremes of beat and cold are cony fliderable. The wintera may be reckoned a month longer Am to the eastward. The whole region ia very healthy. 4^Tbe cottntry beyond the mountains baa a temperate oh^ male, with a considerable portion of cloudy weather ; and the winters are more humid and mild than on the Atiantic. The atate was firat setded by the Sweden and Fin- landers in 1627, and afterwards by the ilhislnous William Pernii in 1681 ; and from the liberal principles which be adopted* and the encouragement held out to settlers of all idcnominations^ the country experienced a rapid pro- gress. The state took an active part in the revolutionary war^ during great part of which Philadelphia was the seat e|. congress. A state constitution was framed at an early period of the war ; . but a new one was adopted in 1790; The state now sends two senators and eighteen represe»' latives to congress. :.m Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 500 townships. The peculation, in 1800, was 602,365; including 1150 slayes, being id)out 12 persons to the aquare-mile^-'''^' '^' =**-■'■'■ 'i* .»^-;---^*v-f't'v,Tf .:-.•!*■■-, -^ rr-^»f-iv- The state has made rapid progress in national improve- loeiits, tod abounds in all the conveniences, and many of die li^xuries of life* The accumulation of property since die cjbae of the war is very great ; and, exclusive of Phi- lade^hiii, the state' oontains 12 to^ms, in which there are from 1000 to 4500 inhabitimfts, among which Lancaster, Yoric^ Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburgh «re the most conspicuous. Besides these, there are upwards of 20 iflQages^eaoh containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants, and ithe g^ter part, if not. the whole of those towns and 4 '* '% 174 immiiiTafkwiMt t tttlagcs aiie maitmung in wadih «nd pdpnlaMir Tfak form lxMiiM>4tfti mostly comfoitablr, itiaMjr of than '«le*^ gant,'4mli tere' an Ane barris and ' olher. buildings* The state isMnell impnyved by lumpikd roads and bridge; and kttdyf a^g^t degree of attentioiiniaB been paid to canals; Many turnpike^ and' canal eompuniea hive been Jbrmed. : v: The agnciih!uiie of the state haa piogi««se wheatf of which the ^nanlity manliiactiiredfiiiio flour innualiy is ihimenae; It is.reckoned the best in^ the^^ United Staie^ and BiirpasBed by none in the worid; (The mountainouA district is pretty much applied to rasing stools. * The breediof horses is teckoned the best m the tJnItid States* She^ have of Jate greatly inci:«ased, land thfivo fttiharka^ bly well. All the grains, grasses, and roots commtti tatht dthet states thrive here. The stock of Ihiity paltiduMf peaches, is excellent ; and some progress has of Iflie beeb made in the cultivation of the vine. '•""' n?v .^itj H PennsjAvania b said to be oine of the graitesi flfiiffiilic- lliiring states kv tlieMUnion. Domestic manufiMStbt^is' at« goiend throiighoiit the state ; but theite aife tihaiiy hlfiimiL factures on a large scale, some of which may be^cSllime- rated. Of uxm there are above 30 iumaee^ beMd«S ^hu- tnerous forges, slitting mills, ittidtiip htiffim^; Of t<^%)od, idl sorts' of ftimiture^ and impletti^ts •of • ^^bail(ilr^< ^ Of leather, boots, shoes^ saddles, bri^esy^'harrkss^ ^t^' Of wool, a variety of cloths, stockingir^ and- hntti ' T^igiBM' with a varidty of other artieles^^i^ ^Mlt liiiiA- liljl olclhAiliade to balhiiiountiies,. and thi: imporliince df a good understanding between them. *' fv>v>m The state of society may be pretty much inferred from the preceding remarks. The inhabitants have every ex- ternal appearance of ease and affluence, and they are re- markably civil and industrious. There are no beggars to be seen here. Indeed, I have not yet seen any in the United States, which is a remarkable contrast to Europe, and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country. The civil government is vested in a legislature, consist- ing of a senate and house of representatives. The senators are chosen for four years, and the representatives annually, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds his office for three years. The constitution declares, " That all men are bom equally free and independent ; — that all power is inherent in the people; — ^that all men liave a natural and indefeasible right to worship God ac- cording to the dictates of their own consciences, and no man can of right be compelled to attend, erect, or support any place of worship, or to maintain any ministry against his consent ; — that no human authority can, in any case xn PBVll«Tt.YAHIA. wbiMver, oomroul or kiterfiere wkh the rigfati of con. «cieiioe» mad that no prefbenoe afaall «¥cr be 'givcii^ by kw, to ai^ religious CftBblishnientSy or niodee of wot. ship ;— tlHit eketioni ahsU be free and equal ;^-*4liat-tritl by jury ahall be imdoUne i > t hat ho law ahiil ever be made to reatrapn the liberty of the ^rei8{»-4hat the people shril be* aeoBfe agaioit all umrairaMtable aearchee, and exoeaaive b«l ahall not be required ;«-*4hat the legiahttuie ifaaM pronde^'by law for the eMMrfmient 6f ashoek ft ioi ij^im tftfae state, in such s jliailBer to the poor m^ betang^ grBlit; pnt mOted.** '• ;-»«.(>■' ■•''":;^'' !..}.' r'.i;m /wKJT^'fj i4^'*-i- ■, ' '' ; 1 . jfi'>0' 'tfj ')('; kifv Tr-:. -'''k hiM '.,'• ' > , . •' > ;'■ i:iifie» r>t - i-\ Of! "" . ■ '^ ' ■ ■ ' .- «M44)^iNi«i»' >rf^ r • M -• ■■I ' ■; '•' '• •.ff-'-'f^ ,'^r!••' ^-ft'.- ...-.j.; '!.■/ ,r.» !< h>'MT i ■ ■,!,.'!,.»<} jjjf) 'j: / ■ -• ■ , '• • . fjr^,if.'*>i-jff ■;<>■*{' i,H^'^-.. ^t^fr.. ^if^---'' 1 i',.! ■;»*■■: ■ ' ^' ■".>*» 'tlV^"* ■ 'i^ ■' ' «tirrt;:»' - t/i .; . .'Afi ■r>. "■■ ■ ■* -; '^ » ,■'' ^i'-^ f -Tfreovt ■ ; • . . - "■ M'|--V ''..'' ' .**■ |!-,:nt 1^ .♦■'■••. : • ■ . . \ ■■■■'> • , , -., / r--y . ^:-'. ■ v. ;t ' f> ff.' • ^-J; ;^ .-r.y^*f..4rs' J. , < ' % ) n7^= BELAWABB.^''- 1.77 i of con- [iiwi* by rf iror- ' cnfcr ''06 ht people Eii6B» and tuiiiiilrtHir i B dhoch pDornu^ I be^pid* . , . '■" '. si/* siVi' I'j^ '.:• '^ ' ,'■'■ ■ (' "^••irt V '.''"r ..,i\rl /"t-Jit ■J> *'^' CHAPTER XXVII. *yt|:yf^)L) -kJi f>,(i: til! .J . . Delaware rtvef^ — Newcastle. ■/»,ff» Tuesday, {September 30. Haying engaged a pas- 9i(ge on board a packet-boat bound to Newcaatle, 40 miles, b^w thiacit}r, I. went on board, this morning, at 7 o'dock*^ The packet was called the Hope, and was one of a^line^ofi boats tliat.nin between Philadelphia and Newcastle; from, thence there is a communication by stages across the state of I Delaware to the Chesapeak bay, where another line of b^liits, connected with this, proceeds to Baltimore: the whole called, appropriately, Land and Water Stages* The distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fiire, in- clifding board, is about three dollars. * m. We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against us; bjit the, tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable progress till we reached six miles below Phikiddphia, where we got aground on a place called the Horse-Shoe, \Yhere we lay nearly two hours. After getting off, wo sailed about four miles, when we were obliged to come to anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Having stopped here till three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed anchor, and sailed eight or ten mil^ > but the wind wi^ right ahead, and had encreased too much to beat down, 90 we were obliged again to come to anchor. We once more set sml at 11 o'clock at night, and next mommg, at 5 o'clock, we reached Newcasde' VOL. I. z 178 TIAfBLt Ilf The liter at Philadelphia u about a mile broad, and it widens as you proceed downwards. At Newcastle it is two miles broad ; from thence it spreads out into the Dela- ware bay. The banks of the river are level, and covered with wood ; and the lands rise to a consklerable height at a distance, affording in some places pretty good views. The only rivers of note. that join the Delaware between Philadelphia and Newcasde, are the Schuylkill and Bran-, dywine creek. The post-road to Baltimore runs along the western bank, and passes through Darby and Chester in Pennsylvania, and Wilmington in the state of Delaware ; which last is a large town, and has a very pretty appear- ance when viewed fh>m the river. On the east side, in Aersey^ are Gloucester, Woodbury, and Swedesborough. Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town contain- ing about 200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in wheat. October 1st Having taken an early breakiast, at a very good tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of £lk river; The road passes 13 miles through the state of De- laware, and 11 miles throu^ Maryland ; and' I found the whole distance a perfect level, without a dngle object to excite attention, or gratify the imagination. The road was very bed, the lands alternately sandy and marshy ; and the people had a saHow sickly colour : the whole indicating a country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina and Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort oi bye- road, which had been taken by this line of stages, and tint it led through the very worst part of the country. t DBLAWABE. M*ir 'i9&- 179 ciiAFrER xxvm. Delaware, The state of Delawaire b situated between 38° 29' and 39° 47' north latitude, and I'' 15' and 1"" 56' east longi. tude. Its greatest length is 100 miles, and greatest breadth about 37 ; its area being about 2200 square miles, or about 1,408,000 acres. The fiice of a great part of the countiy is level, abound- ing with swamps and stagnant water ; but toward thenorth- cm part it is more elevated, and near its extremity there is a considerable chain of hills. There are numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers of consequence. The principal one b Brandy wine creek, which Ms into the Delaware at Wilmington, and on which there are numerous milb and manu&ctories. ^ The state is well supplied with iron, but I did not hear of any other mineral. The soil, in the southern pert, b low and sandy, and en- tirely free of stones ; in the northern part it b more diver- sified, and mixed with clay and loam. The climiate partakes of the configuration of the country^ The southern part has a humid atiftosphere, often foggy and un^dmlesome ; but is mild and temperate in winter. The northern part b agreeable and healthy. The settlement of thb state was coeval with that of Penn^lvama. It took an active part in the revolution, tm DELAWARE. uid sent two delegates to the first congress. The state constitution was adopted in 1792. It now sends two se- nators and one representative to congress. Delaware is divided into three counties and 24 dis- tricts called hundreds* The population, in 1800, was 64,273, including 6143 slaves; being about 29 to tlie square mile. The state of Delaware is considerably improved, and besides many towns and villages of inferior note, contains sevend of considerable size. The most important are,— • Wilmington^ already mentioned, a large thriving town, built on the plan of Philadelphia, consisting of 500 houses, a court-house, jail, and four places for public worship; it carries on a very considerable trade. Newcttstle h3& been noticed. Dcvkr is the seat of government,, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Lewistawn contains about 750; and Georgetown about 200^ A canal was projected across this state and part of Ma- ryland, to form a junction between the- Delaware and Chesapeak, and it is partly cut ; but tlie work was stop- ped for want of funds. It may probably be well- that it is so ; for it was projected on too small a scale, and, in pro- cess of time, will probably give way to one that will admit of sloq) navigation. I liever observed a finer situation for a canal. The distance between the Delaware and Chesa- peak is only about 18 or 20 miles, and the country is nearly level, so that few locks will be requisite ; and were a canal cut, it would4brm a connexion between two of tlie finest rivers in America, and be a link in the chain of an internal navigation of vast extent. W^si The greater part .if the inhabitants of this state ar6r de- voted to agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it DSLAWAEE. 181 The state ds two se- id 24 dis- m 64,273, tlie square roved, and te, contains rtant are,— • ving town, 500 houses, ic worship; Tvettsth has nmeht,. and ntains about ' I'i- '' •■ ' part of liila- ^ware and k was stop- krellthatitis and, in pro- at will admit situation for and Chesa- country is ; ; and were two of the chain of an ite are de- rendered it very productive. The principal produce is wheat, rye, Indian com, barley, oats, and flax. Grasses are abundant, and thrive very li)xuriantly, fumisliing food for many cat- tle—- and every sort of vegetable common to the states already described thrive wdl here. The staple produce is wlieat, of which a great quantity of flour is made for export. Flour is the principal manufacture carried on in the state. The mills on Brandy wine creek are in great per- fection, giving employment to upwards of 600 hands ; and they manufacture upwards of half a million of busliels annually. The other articles consist principally of iron, paper, and lumber. In these, a very extensive trade is carried on, principally with the other states and the West Indies. The exports in 1805 amounted to 358,383 dol- lars, of which 280,556 was foreign produce. The prin- cipal trade with Britain is carried on tlirough the medium of Philadelphia. A very considerable fund is appropriated by the state to the support of schools, which are pretty numerous, and there are two fburishing academies; one at Wilmington, and thp other at Newark. « The constitution guarantees equal rights to all the citi- zens, without regard to property or religious opinions. The government is vested in a governor, a senate, and house of representatives, which are elected by ballot, and " e^'ery white fineeman of tlie age of 21, who has resided in th6 state two years next before the elebtion, shall enjoy the right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified sliall, betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though they have paid no taxes." m T«AVEIS,1J| ^ ^^jH^ CHAPTER XXIX. t-^t*»*5^ ;-i'^ iW'%t*^'f'ltU¥--^ir^ '^ Chesapeak baify — Baltimore, On the 1st of October, 1806, the day being clear and beautiful, we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesa- peak bay, here about two miles broad. At 1 o'clock we stepped aboard the packet, and immbdiately set sail M^th a lair wind ; and enjoyed oiu: situation very much ato* the dull scenery we had passed, and the disagreeable jolting in the stage. •'i- Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pnetty large creek, called Bohe Rivor, and, at half past 3 o'clock, reach* ed the Chesapeak bay. The view here was extensive and sublime. The bay is about six or seven. miles broadband its banks abound in rich scenery, while its waters were animated with a great variety of small vessels. To the north-west is the entrance of the. fine river Susqudiannah^ about a mile broad, and its banks swell out into hills of considerable magnitude, which terminated our view in that direction. To the east the country is low, and the soil appears poor and sandy. * The v«and shifted to the eastward, which conaderably retarded our progress ; but this afforded mt more leisure to survey the scenery, which was every where pleasant The number of small vessels that we saw was very great, indicatmg a considerable commerce. .■ / « MABTLAND. Ida t 4-'T?. I'f'^^J.- '■' - tng clear >f Chesa- clock wc ail with a latothe tie jolting lettylargc ick,reaeh- ;n^ve and sroad^and inters Mrere , To the udiannah, :o hills of view in , and the laderably leisure pleasant [ery great, October 2d. Having gone to bed last evening early, I rose this morning at 1 o'clock, when I found it dear and cold; and a considerable breeze blowing from the north- west I thought at first that this was in our favour, but I soon found that we had in the night passed the branch that leads to Bdtimore, and were nearly as far down as An- napolis*^ We had therefore to beat up all the way to Bal- timore, now distant about 20 miles. However, the vessel sailed remarkably well, and we made good progress. Dur- ing the passage upwards we had a very fine view. We arrived at Baltimore at 6 o'clock in the morning. Having taken lod^ngs at Evans' tavern, I called on a friend to whom I had 2i letter o£ introduction, and he po- litely ofifelred his services to fiicilitate my inquiries at Bal- timore. On my return to the tavern to breakikst, I wa^ astonished to see the number of well-dressed men who sat dowh to table, amounting to abbut 80, and I was told the number was seldom under 40 or 50. This is partly ac- counted for by Baltimore being the great thorough-fare between the northern and southern states; and the number of people passing to and fro, on business and pleasure, is -immense. I learned that a great number of strangers mst in the city at tliis time ; among others, my old friends and Mow-travellers, the Georgia major Bnd the fiwetiotts EngUshmart, They lodged at Bryden's tavern, a house nearly, or altogether, as much fi^uented as Evans'^ Accompanied by my fiiend, I went to see the market- house, which is handsomely fitted up, and well siipi^d with provisions: the prices, I wa:s told, were reasonalde, and nearly the same as at Philadelphia. From thence we went to the coffee-house. On our ^vay my friend pointed 184 ,« Tififits M . out, through a window, a very handsome lady with her child, who he in£;>rmed me were the wife and child of Jerome Bo- nf^arte. The coffee-house is small, but commodious, and is well supplied with newspapers, from every part of the United States. From the coffee-house we went to the library, which contains* a very excellent collection of books, and is under good management. The amiual subscription ' ^ four dollars. The whole city exhibited a very hand- some appearance; and the country round abounds in villas, gardens, and well-cultivated fields. In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw a three-masted schooner launched. I was informed that a great many of these vessels are built at Baltinu)re, and that they are reckoned the festest sailing vessels in the Umted States*. ■■■ : i\*€*f; rr'swj '"5fft ftf :-— ..,••, ?i I spent a very pkasant evening at Bryden's, along with my friendi m company with the major and the English- man. The major related a number of marvellous adven- tures he had met with jn his journey, luid concluded by informing us that he was to drive tandem all Uie way to Georgia, and was to be accompanied by an elegant kidy, and her husband, whom he had engaged ad a clerk. To accommodate his suite ^ he was to take a Jersey waggon, in which he politely offered me a passage; but I preferred travelUiig in my own way, and declined it. The Eng- lishman informed me that he was to leave Baltimore next morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was from thence to travel through the interior of the country to New Orleans, availing himself of land or water convey- ance as he might find it most suitable and expeditious. Baltimore is situated on a branch of the Patapsco river, called the Bason^ 15 miles from the Chesapeak bay, meno rabies that it States, by the of whc of bri( public house, change, Thenu ^ chi< boots ai adjoinin forges, y Thes Ae four centres i wealth trade is Pennsyb river; an 'eshippin duce,^— r ports are 1 supply of trade. I em states It is 50 which has Ae inhabi VOL. I. ■ARYLA171>. 185 ler child, EAne Bo- ous, and rt of the It to the [)t books, )8cri|»tion ay hand- i in villas, ■ .■,-*'l5.- ' aloiigivith : English' ms adven- Lcludfidby way to :gantlady, Icrk. To waggon, preferred 'he Eng- [more next was from jountry to ;r convey- iidpus. Patapsco ipeak bay, and 160 miles fibm the Atlantic oic^m At the com- mencement of thie Ameridn war, it was but an inconside- rable viNiage ; but such has been the rapidity of its growth^ that it \h now the fbUrth commercial city in the United States. It contains upwards of 6000 dtv^lUng-houses, and, by the census of 1600, the inhabitants amounted to 26,514^, of whom 2843 were slaves. The houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant. The principal public -buildings are 13 places of public worship, a court- house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, the ex- change, theatre, observatory, assembly-rooms, and library. The manu&ctures of Baltimore are cciisiderable, and con- sist chiefly of ships, cordage, iron utensils, paper, saddleiy, boots and shoes, hats, wool and cotton cards, 8cc. In the adj(nning country there are numerous mills, furnaces, and forges, which contribute much to the trade of the city. The state of Maryland, in point of foreign trade, ranks ifae fourth in die union, and as a very great pordon of it centres in Baltimore, it must necessarily add greatly to its wealth and importance. A great portion of the export trade is flour, much of which is received from the state of Pennsylvania, through the medium of the Susquehannah river; and the citizens have a brisk trade in importing and reshipping foreign articles, particularly West India pro- duce,-'— rum, sugar, and cofiee. A great portion of the im- ports are manufactured goods fix>m Britain, and, having the supply of an immense back country, this is an increasing trade. I learned, too, that many of the people in the west- em states give Baltimore the preference to Philadelphia. It is 50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, which has a natural tendency to secure a preference; and the inhabitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the VOL. I. 2 A / JL86 TRAVELS IK importance of this trade, have acted l^kh a laudable zeal in making good roads. Upon the whole, I was highly pleased with the commercial importance of Baltimore, and regretted that I did not fix upon this place £br my com- mercial establishment, in place of $ayannah. The trade of Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample capitals. One is a branch of the bank of the United States. ' ., . The affairs of the city are under the management of a city council, consisting of two branches, and a mayor. The police seems to be under good regulations, and the > streets are kept very clean, which secures good health to the citizens. Education is pretty well attended to, and the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious. The men rank as correct men of business; and as to the ^ladies, I saw but little of them^ and can only say, in the language of the quaker, ** they loqk well." ^. :; ' i',> > u- i, r .iiiiii Thi! kiitude tromel tremet irregula miles, ( water. The isboun( extremit waters, ] itpresen The east continue level to J fry, and TheC merits a tancetot raUy. 1 hannah B h ir of sn and so cc timore. ; / ible zeal IS highly nore,and my com- le trade of all ample e United ment of a a mayor, s, and the L health to xl to, and idustrious. 1 as to the say, in the HARYLAl^O. 187 . *'«v;''— -^/lifetyiilAJikifi^u/"-'/*, •,' ''l"''- V*;f^ilfl4m east to west is 212 miles, and its ex- treme breadth from north to soudi is 123 ; but it is very irregular. If iis compu^ to contain about 14}000 square miles, or 8,960,000 acresj of which abdUt one-fourth is water. -^ .■, " i '- ■ ; ■• ^' ■ ' The fece of the country is remarkably variegated. It^ is bounded on the south-west by the river Potomac to its extremity; and the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous waters, passes throu^ the middle of it. On the east side, it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Atlantic Ocean. The eastern shore is low, level, and sandy. The country continues to rise by a very gentle ascent, but is generally level to Baltimore. It then swells out' into a hilly coun- try, and the western part stretches across the mountains. The Chesapeak Bay has been aheady iK>ticed ; but it merits a more particular description, from its vast impw- tanceto this state, and, indeed, to the United States gene- rally. This bay is formed by the outlet of the Susque- hannah River, where it receives French Creek, and a num- b.^r of smaller streams. It is there about 7 miles broad, and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Bal- timore. From thence it assumes various breadths, from ^ fesSt.. .1 •JL88 m&btlamih" 10 to 15 miles, during a course downwards of about 70 miles, to near the Potomac River. From thence it stretches out to 25 or 30 miles, during a passage of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by an outlet of 20 miles broad. , colour in the inhf^bkants* Itimpraves as the land gets hilly) and among the niountains is delightful, the sum- in^ being cooled by fine breezes^ while the winters are tempered by a southern latitude, which renders them much more mild than to the northward. The country was first settled by Lord Baltimore, a Roman catholic, who evinad the liberality of his religious principles, by providing for the free exercise of all other religious opinions in the colony. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong to the citizens, who delegated five of their number to the first congress. The state constitution was framed in 1776, which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues. The state now sends two senators and nine representatives to congress^ , , ' , fr»-yt^ The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by the census of 1800, 241,885 white pers(»is, and 107,707 alavesi being, in the whole, about 25 persons to the square mile of territory ; but, when the proportion of wa- ter is subtracted, it makes the amount to each square mile nearly 35. 1 iif%*i,^, > National improvements have kept pace with the indus- try and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns, cultivated' farms, roads, and bridges are all^ so many proofs that the citizens of Maryland are possessed, in a high de- gree, of these qualifications, .i.^ju /,i.t Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is the chief. An n a pdLi s is the seat of government, and is situated on the Severn River, about two miles from its entrance into Che- sapeak Bay. The houses, built of brick, are about 300 in number, and the city contains about 2500 inhabitants^ The State-House in one of the most superb buildings in the l90 MAHTLAKIfc Uiiit^ Btat^. There isa college, a tKeMre, and two places of public wonhnp ifi'tlie city. It has a harboiir, though no great commerce ; but, being a pleasant place, it is the residence of a great many wealthy people. Fredetick- town is a large inland town, containing a court-house, jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public worship. The inhabitants are about 6000 ; and the town has considerable manufactures and inland trade. Hagen- towrtj situated beyond the first range of mountains, con- tains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, there are a great number of smaller towns and villages, containing fit>in 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the fintn- houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial, nor so elegant, in general, as those in Peimsylvania. This is the first state in which there is a material diffe- rence of agriculture fh>m the northern states ; still, how- ever, the staple crop is wheat ; but they raise a conude- rable quantity of tobacco, and some cotton, though none of the latter for exportation. AL Jie other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow in the northern states, flourish here; and the sweet potatoe, 9 root belonging to a warm climate, comes to considerable maiority. ...... The principal manufiustures of the state have been no- ticed in the' account of Baltimore ; and so has the foreign trade. The exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to 10,859,480 dollars, of which 7,450,937 dollars was foreign produce; and the imports are about equal in value, of which a great part consists in dry goods from Britain*^ There are considerable funds^ impropriated to the sup- pcNt of education. There are five colleges, and a number of very respectable academies in the state, and common schools in every county. "|r»k" T < ■* ~ VABTLAIID, 91 oivttfgovaminent is vested in a governor, senate, andhouse of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualifica- tion to vote for delegates is a fireehold of 50 acres of land, or property to the value of j^. 30 currency. The princi- ples of government are similar to those of Pennsylvania. i•^»^■ ^1 •www 4 / . ■ -.^ ; .-^ vKS^ ■^.^^ : >^*W1|| V 'i''tfil$^l^' If '-^ ■'!•:.■ -^ - ■ .'m i\ . . ,1, :' ••« ^■:«C7i> ■;,;.■■ :r r">jr 'ii]1' -# 192 rnkvuiA in the .1 I I' li ;/ li-f* i't • . I ( CHAFTER XX*t. fr'4#*?i<»-'' .s?t >« Patapsco creek f — JFashington. On the third of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in the mail stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles through a hilly, well-wooded, and healthy country, and ar. rived at Patapsco creek, 25 miles above its junction with the Chesapeak. It is navigable thus far, but the naviga- tion is obstructed by the falls half a mile above. We travelled eight miles more through a similar country, when we stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor, and litde cultivated ; the principal woods were oak, hicko- ry, and pine. The air was sweet and pure, and, having intelligent company in the stage, the travelling ^vas very agreeable. At 19 miles from Patapsco creek, we stopped again to change horses, on an elevated situation, where we had a fine view of the adjacent country; and, in one direc- tion, not less than 20 miles distant. From thence wff travelled 16 miles, through a country rough and uneven, and by a road no less so, whe n 'vc came to an agreeable plain; and two miles further we passed through a little scattering village called Bladensburg, situ- ated on the east branch of the Potomac ; from thence we travelled nine miles more to Washington city ; the whole distance being 44 miles. The country appeared generally poor and sterile; and the season had been uncommonly dry, in consequence of which all the grass and herbs were Dt«1l»109r Of 0OI«UMBIA. .its out in t miles uid ar. n with laviga- . We r, when at poor, hicko- having very itopped icrewe direc- tountry |c came passed J, situ- Ince we whole ^nerally ^monly >s were parobc^ and tbe Jiq^o^ mmim ^vciy wheic exhibiled a acoix^ed^Uke apprytniy. I nolked^ however» ■evcnl tbnvinK fi^ of tobicco. , .i a ■ Being told that we were entering Washington city, I con* tinucd looking ibr thie houses for some little time; but tee- ing noni , I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman who mude the remark, and turning round for an explana- tion, he told me, laughing, that we were almost in the very middle of it, and asked if I did not see the Capitol a little before us. I did, indeed, see a stately edifice, but no othoc appearance of a city. Soon after this, the stage stopped, at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol^ where I took lodgings. On walking out to the Capitol Hill, I had a fine view of the whole scite of the city, which is very large, extending a mile and a half in each direction north and south of the Capitol ; to the east two miles; and to the west nearly two miles and a half. The buildings, though numerous, being scattered over this large space, give it more the appearance of a thickly-setded country than a city ; and, very few of them extending in the direction we came, we had travelled a good way into the city before I saw it. The view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole country round is handsomely setded, with elegant houses; and the view is terminated to the west, south-west, and north-west, with highlands. To the south, is the river Potomac, with Alexandria pleasantly ^tuated on its banks. The navy-yard and shipping, and the barracks, are seen to the south-east and eastward; and to the west is the prew- dent's house, a stately edifice, about a mile distant; be- yond which, handsomely situated on the brow of the hill, is Georgetown, The Pennsylvania avenue runs between VOL. I. 2 B 194 .,*,UU-tRAVBt8 W TIIB»'<' tlie Capitol and the president's house), and being ornament. ed wkh trees and walkd^ on'each side^ forms a very pkas. ing prospect. It is in this direction that the dty is making great^ fjrogress. Th^ evening was clear and pleasmt,and the reflection of tlie setting sun add^ lustre to the sceneiy. i u- , .,r, * ■ 1 ; "piifi.Xid'!: Hfj-XHuLi :^^.i:. '.u'i^uiii . ,J '; .■-;^4i.,» Jij^^U.^^j: ■5lllCj*' -V J, ^''fi>lk:^ilt, »>. ,,yv^|k{-k i^^^i fefj- ' £f y^''M,yi^''t" Ifc^ ^V(f/ mament- ay pkas- isnudLing Section of iji / DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 195 CHAPTER XXXn. Washmgt(m,'-'Treasuryy—'Capitol,-^Bdrracksr--Mw yard, — Georgetown. Washington, Octob«- 4. Having been fumJshdl with a letter of introduction to a gentleman in the treasury-^ office, I called tliis mornings when I was politely received, and goi every information calculated to facilitate my inqui- ries. My friend carried me to the dilferent departments in the office, which are all spacious, and comitiodious; but this being a time at which there was no public bil«<- ness, tiiere was litde to be seen. From thence we went to the post-office, which has no great appearance exteriorly, but it seems to be very well arranged in the interior to an- swer the purpose for which it was designed. I was in^ formed that both these departments were under excellent management. <> « ^ I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman who has the charge of the Capitol, and went vith him to see ^lat edifice. It is an elegant building of hewn ston^ and uorisbts? of two wings and a portico in the middle. The north wing was quite con^lete, and the whole legis-^ htive business was transacted in it for the time. The se^ nate-chatliber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant apartment, iii4th handsome fqmiiure; it is adorned with full kngth pordikits of the late unfortunate king aB^'quiaen of France^ : The house of representatives meet^httili iipiit^ 1^ ^/ «f«TllATBL8 IN TEH" » ment up stairs, which, I was told, was ultimately destined for the library room. It was fitted up with commodious seats for the members, but no way ornamented. The only things in it which merited notice, were two very elegant views of the Ms ^f ;>^agan|. , From thence we went to the south wing, where a great many workmen were em- ployed ; and I was told they were making great exertions to have it finished in time foi; the^next congress. The apartment for the house of representatives is a large oval 9pptn,j9cpupying x\s»t\y the whole bu^diog Up $|iii»si, and wMl« w)^n (^ishi^d* ^ very supetb. , ^-r ■ r^ im H-^^^t^ » w .1 F4|oi{|it];i^,^CapitQl r^weiit to see ;^ barrack* > They afp ktg^ ^nd} . ioonvenlent, and were : ganisoned) by 250 num h^f^ % portion of i the United Stat^' mmyl r I was V^^ormed ithat th^y were ibuud in every thing, ^besides their p^ of] six^ dc^kirs per months TJnsv however, does iij9t bear a pro|x>i:tioiiiito the wages of the odiertrlasses in ^jnenca^ who, on an average^ may be found in evbry tlufig, and have twelve dollars per month;. The coiise- quencefia, that the few military that are wanted will pro- hsblyQQtbe^ generally speaking, equal in i-e^ctability to the other citizens. It is probable they wiU be com- posed ^ inadleHt men, who are liot.wiUii^ to. labour, or of vipiousmen, who h^ve bemaiitic cliasm, in which there is a pretty large stream of water, called Rock Creeks Having passed this by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, whidi I found itgularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the side of a Mil, havitig a considerable descent to the riVer, of which it has a fine view. It contains about 300 houses, . and 4500 mhabitants. Mo^ of the houses are built of bnck, and some of them are elegant The public builds ings are five places for public worship, an academy, and a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, Ih consequence of the rapid settlement of the back country, is yearly ihcreaaiig^ • :— «;: ;r< v ^.,. /?. .r i^ w-r- <^>.^'-.:;^ The RiVer Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad op^ ports' Washington, contracts here to less than a fourth of Dnt diitaiice ; and it is proposed to build a bridge across it, whicli, if executed, will add much to the convenience ofthis part of the country. ^ This^ river merits particukr notice, and I cannot any where iiitit>duce it ryith more propriety than here. The Potomac rises from ^^ spring on'^the north-west side of the s Allegany ihOuntains, and runis a north-ea^ tour^ of ^> ¥HAVBLS> IN" TBe r.t about 60 miles, to Cumberland^ where it makes< a bend, and, by a serpentine course, nearly soutb-eaat, runs about 18 milfis; to where it receives the south-west- branch. It then turns to the nortli-east, and runs a very serpentin&voourse of about 45 miles,! in which ; tt< receives a considerable number of tributary streams, to Hancock's Town* Here it m^es another bend to the south-east^ and 9. miles from thence it receives the waters of Licking; Creek, and passes the North Mountain kito a fine limestone valley, which it waters by a ver}' windir^ course, and principally a south* east direction, for about 45 mUes. In this valley it re- ceives a considerable numbered small streams, particularly the Conecooheague Credc, at WiUiamsport, in thie> miw this bend, flows into the Chesapeak Bay» by a passage about 10 miles broad. This is one of the most important of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its inlersectingithexoun* try in a!<^ntral situatioui has excited great, attention in the Unked States; more i^specJallyunce^Washif^on was fixed on as the seat of the general government, it is na- vigable for ships. of ^y burden to iVl^x«M)dria,^,4i^^ce it DlSTftlCT. or COLINICBIA. 199 vabend, about 18 It then ^.course B. Here iikt from nd passes wbich it f a south, lley it re- artipularly l^vijaiddle he waters ^g^ttlarly ititain. It about SO tseof 8or rel of tide- liver now lexandria, the west it luakes a 1 It now miles be* afussage iffipOTtant ithe coun* Len^on in fon was Jt isna- a4isUnce of about 160 imlesy and about lao from the Capeaof Vir- giniat^; i and from thence for vessels of considerable burden to Geovgetown, at the headof tide- water. There b a lock navig^on, constructed at great labour and expence, round tbe'fitst &lls. Con»derable improvements have been made furtlier up the river.) and it is presumed, that, by following up these, improvements, the river can be made fit for: boat navigation to- Cumberland, 180 miles above dde- water, the elevation being 700 ^t above tlie level oS^ the sea. Connected with this^^ important subject, I may here no* tice, that a road has been laid out^ by ^ order oif congress^ fipom Cumberland^ across the mountains^ to BrownsvUk on the Monongahela^ia distance of 72rmi|es, on' whicb the angle oST ascent is no where greater than 5 degrees. From Brownsville there is an easy navigation to Pittsburg on the Ohio. ^^^ I returned from Georgetown to dine with, my friend; and after dinner was introduced to a number of gentiemen of Washington, who vied with one another in showing me attention, and in giving me inibrmation. w. Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, the editor of the Na* tional Intellig^cer, a shrewdy sensible man; and, having a desire to be correctly informed of the measures of the ge- neial government during my stay m America, I ordered a copy of that p^per to be sent to Savannah. I had fre- quently seen and admired it for its liberality of sentiment, and freedom from personal abuse ; and, from the access which the editor must necessarily haVe to the best sources of information, I was satisfied that the iiitelli^;*{ice contain- ed in it might be gencKiUy relied on. --^.vs-m i^w^r^' f:^^^ ■^' 14., In the eveningi I was kifonned by my imd$, tfattt the pi«8id^t had unexpectedly arrived in the .G%,^aQd,I ivas advised to call upon him before I )sh it. ,1 VKif^hed veiy much to have an opportunity of seeing ithepre^idciiti hut I was infoiroed^ .l!^>^Yo|]c«,#Qd E|iilade^;)laa, jthat he would not be, at Washington until, late in Nqtrember, in consequenceof wluch, I w^ not funushedwithiailetter of introduction. But tib^y informed me, that it was. altogje- theriinneG^ssu^^ Mr. Jeffeicpqa jva».a maii^p£<:nio^,c^- mony, juid, I coul^ introduce ^y self as. a. ^sti^^ngerr and Mjgould .bev^attend^ to ^^ su^^ jnd ^i^uld ,tf^mmi of ahallt be.4Bonunufucated in .the.nfixt»chapter^ ■ >*■ ''-VNi '■ t' rti . *■ VOL. I, li DI8TBICT OF COLUMBIA. Ottdthe bed very koDt; but , wjbat he ioober, in aktterof AS. aUoge- %,-mffti of ffc'^-^-l- dMF*^ ■■-?^T'- «* a .t. «^ . .-L .1 2Qti ^^ ■;•; CHAPTER XXXra. Interview with Mr, Jefferson, Washington, October 5. in pursuance of the re- commendation of my friends, I set out, this morning, at 8 o'clock, for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefierson. On my arrival at the president's house, I delivered my ad- dress to a servant, who in a few minutes returned with an answer, diat Mr^ Je£krson would be with me presently, and showed me into an elegant apartment. Mr. Jefferson ioon entered by an iiiner door, and requesting me to be seated, sat down himself; and immediately, and very fmAAff entered into conversation, by asking where I had landed, and how long I had been in the country. Having infdrmed him, he remarked that I would probably be tra- velling to the north^rard ; I replied that I had been to the noith, and was now travelling to die southward. '* And how do you like New York?" "Very muchj" ssud I; ^* it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, I pre- sume, will always continue to be the first commercial city in the United States." He observed that he found that idea generally entertaine^d by strangers; that New York was a very fine situation, and would unquestionably continue always to be a great commercial city ; but it ap- peared to him that Norfolk would probably, in process of thne, be the greatest sea-port in the United States, New Orleans perhaps excepted. ^ He pcnnted out the circum- VOL. I. 2 c i02 4ii»RAiriL8 iir *hm stance of the vast confluence of waters^ that constituted the outlet of the Chesapeak bay, on which Norfolk/is situ- ated^ and remarked that these rivers were as yet but par- tiidly settled ; but they were rapidly settling up, and, when the population wiafull| the quantity'^ surplus produce would be immense, and Norfolk would probably become the greatest dep6t in the United States, except New Or- leans. 'm'Xht conversation next turned upon ^e clitniite atid ^. ^cm ; on which the presideitt remarked, that the country had 11116 sumii^ been remarkably healthy; that no case of epidemical siokness had come to his knowledge^ some few pf kiUous fever and feuer and 9gtw ekeeptedj: at the foot df "die mountains oil Jameis* river^ not &r from ^eve he lived ; And which country was never knowa tO experience igsf case9 of the kind beibre. As thk 9ppeai!ed. singulav^^^I Inquired whether there w»s any way Of Accounling for it gjp Ifeplifild, that the W£iy he accounted for it y^lSM»: <* In oniinary sea6on$, there is a sui&biency of WiteK ti>iiCe«p t^ riy^ns in a ^te of circulation^ and no moi^ ; but thi$ ft^ison therQ tes been ai(»ig 9i|d vety seveiie 4roughtt ^^ch, in ii[^^ places ha&,4ried them up. The water ^ stagnate in poqis, and s^ndis out>a putrid effluvia to soBAe^difit^ce} which, ;bei|ig lighter than tiie atmosphere^ 9^cen4s even s^i^me liitde way up the mountaina, ^ reaches tfee abo4p«uef thiE^ who thought them^dve^ h^V^tofore fipee from attack." ..;..: ^iJE was strud^ w^th the force of this retnar^y and applie(} it to a circumstance jdiajt ha^ cpme un4^r my obs^vatipn at Wasy^gtpn* * The Papitol HiM ia, ejeyat^ a|H)ye the river upwi^rda pf 70 feet. Beitween thi&^aud the river theie is^^ l9>v in?a49W, afeput a jnil^Ja-q^di a!?offii4ing ,5iwth i l?s«^vatipn laboye th^ jriy^rtheire \g with fWimps ifid small shrabbery . In the autumn these swamps send out an effluvia^ which often afiects the health of those who live on the hilL I noticed this circumstance, and the president ilwilarked, that it was a case exactly in point. He said he had frequently observed from his windows, in the mfivning, the vapour to rise, and it seemed to have suffi- dent' buoyancy to carry it to the t(^ of the hiU, and no further; there it setded, and the inhabitants, coming out df:1dlei^ warm vo(ims,i breathed this cold contaminated va- . f6uFii w)neh'faraBg|kt>on agues and other complaints. He and Jkt hadtfiequently p(»nted out this t(^ the people, an4 argedithemtD drain tlie swamp, but it wns still neglectod* dthinighithey lii4)>be^des sufiering in their healthy pndba^ b^ expended 'mo^ in doctor's bills than it would tiave le^.: v^^fittt^ indeed," he continued, ** mankind are ea^ 4i(Jcdingi;^idii^opdng iiesdutions to p^vent disease^ 811^ it |»'very diffibult to convince theiii v^here they oifig^^ nfiti^'^pQhieukirl^rhwiien' th^^ applied' is the r6> ^ bC phiadlophioal deducdim.'^ The transition from this subject to that of the ydk>W ftivsr?ir»l«iiind,^ and linftrodtioed k by noticing Paiiie's Mkym^ subject ' The piesident observed, that it was die of i the; moat senaiUe perfomuftices on that dkease, that had edme under liis observation. The remarks wene qidte {rf^loe^hieal^ and, not being calculated to excite any paetyifedkigf 'thejr might have a very useful tendency^, * I had seen this essay of Mr. Psdne in the newspapers, and I made'menuon of it in the account of my conversation with him^ pEgc1^5V 'It fia^ljiri'die'tifocul^d a cbpy of the essay ; and as it itf the liifOM iiDiiany othet^» which are pernicious ds fir as Uneff go^ ttid i^tfe should be taken to prevent them. But a shipi:GaD Dever inkport a sufficient quantity of >impufe air to pollule a ivhole dty, if that city be otherwise 'lKaithy,^«nd,thfiffe^ •fere, the origin of the yellow fever^ onion eadended seok^ must be bought for in an impure akv general^ from filth eoDeeted in and about gn*at cities; and it waavery e3lip^ dient that this view of the subject should be cniocced^ in order to induce mankind to attend to ime of the^most iin> ^po^lant cohcems in life-Msleanliness.. Hu r < ^ • '^ I tbok notice of the bad state of the road between Bal- timore and Waahihgton, and expressed my^ surprise that it should remain in this state, so near the capifal of the United' States. The president observedv that the idhovil 0f the seat of government was a recent measure^ and ll^ co^try was so extensive^ that it would neekssidrSy be a considerable time before good roods could be made in all directions, but as it was a most important aubject, it would be attended to as fastt as circumstances woidd per- mit; and the road to Baltimore, being the great thorough* •fare"t6'^ northern states, would probably be one of the first that would undergo a thorough repair^ He then in- likely t possible was ur| but thai the opei and beii whig pi DiaraioT op Columbia.^ 205 €ydkm ise from er gene- onte un. ireasdar. pestUen- ;ted) and ig iiiade, ad. TKi l^go^iand topoUute fitmifiltli liioeced^in I BiQBt im* r Bal. that of the idhovil be a in all ibject, it rodd per- tligrough- jone of the le then in- foHniKl me, that both this subject and that of internal na- vigatioii by canals, were under consideration at the present time, upon a very extended scale, and probably a report would soon be^ published relative to them ; and he had litde doubt, but that in less than 20 years, turnpike roads would be general throughout the country ; and a chain of canals Ivduld probably be cut, which would complete an inland" navigation from Massachusetts to Georgia; and anoAi^? to eonnebt die eastern with the western waters,^^ « ' I:^£rst necessity, would increaac^^ until ttiiey became quite general through the countiy. ^r^ » V As ?the non^importation act was then in dependence, I was naton^y anxious to ascertain, whether matters were likely to be adjusted with Britain, and, as modesdy as possible, endeavoured to turn the conversion that way. I was urged to this by two considerations. I was not sure but that part of our M importation would come under the operation of the non-imporation act, if it took place ; and being fully satisfied of the friendly disposition of the whig party in Britsdn towards America, I would gladly " .&- ■ too D|9W^V OV CQiAmmUd ^ Ime availed myieif of an opportunity of cxpreaaing that opinion to t^e president But on thia subject Mr. jeiTer- son was, of course, reserved ; though, from the feW( obser- vations he made, I concluded that matters would ultimately be amicably adjuat^ , I was highly gratified by the ex- pression of his opinion, on the character of my great favourite statesman Mr. Fox. Accounts had that mom- ing reached Washington, that Mr. Fox was in the last stage of his illness^rnl noticed the ciroumatance* *' Poor man," said-Mr. Jefierson, "I fear by tUa time he.iano more, and^bia loaa. wiU^be severely £bU by his countiy-^ he 19 a m^ oCthf most liberal and ^enlightened poli#y«« a ^i^ tfii^ coun|iy» and to the humari race." . A gentleman then highly pleaand with thi9 afia^ bitityij intelligt»i«e» and good aensey oftba FfAsid^ntof iniiitiitiiii'iimii'i iiiiiiiiiidyiiKiiiifi iw. j > »•/ 6^. I W^^- ii ' ^i^MK? -^iCi^i* t •^. , V . ••'^lijai/iiv:..; J^ ■ h'. lj > . ;■■* AttTftler or coLVHiiiA. 309 thit dTer- »bser- lately t ex- great morn* e last •Poor uiftno Iwy— ^ of ^1^^ :. CHAPTER XXXIV. 'Utmii 1,1111 ,»3 /J' *i\!' ♦,\4' District of Columbia, HTHIS district is 10 miles square, and was ceded to the Unit^ States by the states of Vh-ginia and Maryland ; and in the year 1800 became the seat of the gjeneral go- vernment ' It is in north latitude 38* 54^, and the Ameri- can geographers hare adopted it as the first meridian of longitude, which I have followed in itiy descriptions of the states, so as the reader may know at a glance how far ; they are remored from the t^itol. The face of the country around it has been noticed. The soil appears poor and sandy. The climate is the same as the middle district of Maiyland, and, judgmg from the countenances of the people, I should infer it is not very healthy. It is high and diy ; but the whole flat countiy of Virginia and North Carolina lies to the south of it ; and, when a south wind ^ blows, it must waft a giteat deal of marsh efRuvia aldog with it, of which the people in this district will receive a full share. The district lies on both udes of the Potomac river, and is' divided into two counties, one on tJth sf de. The population, when I was there, was supposed to be about 17,000, including those of Georgetown and Alexandria ; and it was rapidly encreasung. The general improv^nents in diis district have been .• already noticed. Besides the settlements scattered over W9 914TRI0T OF COLUNBU. the ^Strict, it contains two principal towns and the capi. tal» Of these, Georgetown has been already mentioned; and as I shall have occasion to notice Alexandria in a sub- sequent article, it only remains here to give a general ac. ' count of the federal city. *-^ ^ WASHINGTON "i Is situated in the centre of the district of Columbia, and is bounded on the south-east by the eastern branch of the 'Potomac river^ tO' the south-west by the western branch, to the north-west by Bock creek, and to the north-east by the Qpm country. Its extreme length from north-west to «outh*eest is a little more than four miles and a half, and its medium breadth Jrom north-east to south-west about ;^two miles and a half, being nearly the dimcnsbnsof the city of London, including Westminster and Southwark* An elegant plan of this city has been published, on wMch I counted 37 squares^ 17 grand avenues, named after the diierent states, and 103 streets crossing one another at right angles, and running the whole length and breadth of the city. On this plan I find the following observations. ** The grand avenues, and sUch streets as lead immedi- ately to public pkices, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and may be conveniently divided into foot- ways, walks of trees, . and a carriage-way. The otlier streets are from 90 to 110 feet wide. " In order to execute this plan, Mr. EUicott drew a true meridional line by celestial observation, which passes f through the area intended for the capitol; this line he crossed by another, due east and west, which passes 1>ISiV|UOT OF COLUMBIA. 209^: the capi- ntioiied; in a sub- »ieral ac- mbia, and ich of the branch, to ast by the th-\V!est to I half, and fvest about ions of the ithwarki ,onwluch after the another at breadth of Ltidns. immedi- wide, and 8 of trees, 90 to 110 >watrue [ch passes line he sh passes through the same area. These lines were acciuatdy measured, amd made the basis on which the whole plan was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instru« ment, and determined the acute angles by actual measure- ment, and left nothing to the uncertainty of the compass. ^' *^ The positions for the different edifices, and for t!ie se- veral, squates or •^:i<.?.z of different shapes, as they are laid down, were first determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding tlie most extensive prospects, and t^ bejtte^^^sceptible of sudh improvements as either use or omanoent may hereafter call for* " Lji^es or avenues of direct communication have been devised tp conp^ect the sesparate and most, distant objects.' Yyitl\ .ti^e prmcipal, and to preserve thra^gh the whole ^ i^iproQity of sight, at the same time. Attention has been paid to the passing of these leading avenues over the most favourable ground % prospect and convenience* ^^Nqrth and south lines, intersected by others running, due east and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, square^, &c.; and those lines have been so com* bined ass to meet at certain given points witli those diver-* gent ayenues,, so as to form on the spaces * fu^t determin- ed' the different squares or areas." There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the city, on which r find the following observations. "The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the level of the tide in said creek, is 236 feet 7 inches. The \vater of this creek may be conveyed on the liigh ground where the Capitol i^tands, and after watering that part of city, may be (destined to ot^er useful purposes. The per- pendicular height of the ground where the Capitol i& tc) stand is above the dde of Tiber creek 78 feet. VOL. I. 2 J5 2i& fRAvisLS m ram " The perpendicular^ height of the n est branch above tlfe tid^ in Tiber creek, is 115 feet 7 inches. *^* The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may be conveyed to the president** house." A most etegant plan indf^, and a very animated de- scfiption. tt only wants 40,000 elegant buildings, and a cori^sponding population, to constitute tlie American capi. td one of the handsomest cities iti the ivotldl However, it iff td be recollected that every thing must have a begin- ning, and the time was when London was m0. ' The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and 50D0 inhabitants. The buildings are aH pf brick, three -dtbi'i^s high, and agreeable to a given plan^ 'J^ere are iaatt^ scatterihg huts and wooden buildings throughout <^ dfStHct, but tiiey are obly temporary. Thc>.greater '^art T>f the public buildings have b^n already noticed. There are, besides, two or three churches^ three market- £K)t»esj and a jail. The inaikets are tc^rably well sup- j)Hed with provisions, but ever}) article is dear; the prices may be reckoned one-third higher than at Philadelphia; a ciircumaMce that wiQ probably operate against t^^pro- gress of population. > . ^^ The principal manu&olHtes are tito^ calculated for do* mestib con^mption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a considerable retail trade, but very little of any other; the shipping trade it carried on at Alexandria, and the inland ti^e at Georgetown, The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the titiion, and there are many foreigners among them. They Vikt reputed to be orderly and correct in their mughcmt *^ greater noticed, ^^tiarfeat- svrell sup- he prices elphia; a the pro- ;d for do- here is a ■ther; the he inland The district of Columbiat west of the Potomac, is sub- ject to the laws of Virginia, and east of the river, to those of Maryland; but the whole is under the special direction of the government of the United States, and the internal police is managed by a corporation, of which the president of the United States appoints the mayor. The other mem- bers are elected by the people. There is a circuit court of the United States within the district, consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and ^y hold four sessions annually. A lew general remarks shall dose this chapter, and my account of the capital of the United States. Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many conflicting opmions about British influence and French influence,^ and federalism and democracy, and die suppos- ed enmity of the American government to Britain and British trade; and of a partiality far the French and Bona- parte; I determined to take no share in the argument, but to hear all the eyidence on both sides, as Jtj;^)(| in my w^, and to judge for myself. The result of this judgment I shall WJW communicate. I was satisfied, from all that 1 had seen ^d heard, that there is bonajide British influence in ^ country, of a very powerful nature, great in extent, and arismg from very ob- vious causes. The principal of these are the identity of kinguage, the similitude of manno^ and habits, and the extensive commerce between the United States and Bri- tain. To proye the ii^uence arising fix>m these, it is un- necessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in Ame- rica a stranger. I travelled through die countiy, associ- ating every where freely widi the people. I was uni- formly remved 9& a fri^* J waited on the chief ma*. 212 ^ l^AYElS IN THE gistitte of Arnica altogether in an iin|[irenieditdted man* ner. I sent up my address as* ** a native 6f-iBritam." His conduct and conversation have been fai^ifiilly recbrded in the preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it. Did it look like prejudice againist Brttaiti or British pec pief— ^I sitty no. In regard to French influence, it stands upon a fixiting cxactl)^ the reverse. The natives of France have a differ- ent language, and different manners and habits. When they ariive in this couhtiy, they have a language to learn; they never can learn to speak it with the fluency of a na- tive; and th^liave few ideas in common^ sa that there really is little whereon to ground a free interchange of sen- timents and of friendship. Accordingly it is found, that &e French natives in the country are generally a quiet, peaceable people, who associate mosdy among themselves, and pay little or no attention to politics, or to public con- cerns. I cannot illustrate this subject better than by a quotation from M* Talle3rrand. He ^ had travelled exten. sively in the United States, and had paid very close atten- tion to the manners of the people. He closes a series of observations with this sentiment. '- In all my travels through the country, I never saw an Englishman that was not treated as a native; I never saw a Frenchman that was not treated as a stranger." SI* Passing over mere party-bickerings, which I leave with a great deal of pleasure to the newspapers, I shall here re- markj that it appeared to me, there was every disposition to have m anucsdsle adjustment of all differences with Britain, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse to every ex- tent that the natives nilitually wished, or that their wants ftii^ht call for ; and as to partiality for Bonaparte and the Fren ed,t] ened tweei ,dispo not a loss G a Gre valual ced t< numb black presse virtue the go the H] with tl Intl ^ Alt Ale tomac, It is lai ing on< airy. J habitant ly incK and jai] considei inhabita flour and %ia, was DI8TBICT OF COLUMBIA. ^13 n." His ;0f dcd in »e of it. tish peo- a iboting e a differ- I. When ! tbleam; y of a na- that there ige of sen- bund, that [y a quiet, hcmselves, mblic' con. thain by a lied exten. ilose atten- a series of ij travels that was that was French, it was my sincere opinion, very deliberately form- ed, that ther^^vas none. Hence my opinion was strength- ened as to the probability of a good understanding be- tween the two countries; for I was satisfied of the friendly .disposition of the British ministry, i knew that they did not all view America in the same light, and I dreaded the loss of Mr* Fox ; but while a Grerwille, an Erskine, and a Grey, rem^dned in the cabinet, I was convinced that the valuable trade to the United States would not be sacrifi. ced to a crooked policy^ nor to gratify the avarice of a number of unprincipled speculators. I saw, indeed, a black cloud in the rear. A most powerful toiy faction pressed upoh die national councils, and almost browbeat virtue out of counteniance ; and this faction was strong in the good- wiir of the court. But, to counterbalance this, the HEIR APPARENT, THE PRINCE OF WaLES, WaS with the whig party, and I hoped for the best. In the afternoon I took my departure, in a ferry-boat, " ^ Alexandria, wluch I reached at 6 o'clock. Alexandria is atuated on the west bank of the Po- tomac, in the south-east comer of the district of Columbia. It is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia^ the streets cross- ing one another at right angles, and they are broad and airy. It qontained, by the census of 1800, 4096 fi^ee in- habitants, and 875 slaves ; the population has since great- ly increased. The public buildings are a court-house and jail, a bank, and an epi^opal church. I observed considerable shipping in the river, and learned that the inhabitants have a pretty extensive trade, principally in flour and tobacco, * The weather, during my stay iri the district of Colum- Ibia, was clear and very "mrm ; and from the observations* ^^1 214 TUAVXUi IN I made, I was satisfied that there must be ^./jnatarial dif. ierence of clunate between this place and P^addphia, the great change hi^pening somewhere near the Pa^psco river, agreeably to the opinion of Vokiey. On applying at the mail 8t^;e-ofiice, I found there were 10 plaees engaged, so that it was with some difficulty I could get aecommodated ; but they agreed to squeeze me amongst the number ; and J retired to bed, resolved to sleep as fast a^ possible, with a view of getting up at 4 o'clock in the morning, the hour at which I was toM the stage would set out. *.■■ kr mliWiirii •nv,r tt*. "Wfe MoK Ito6k] tie befo] miles, t last. F only rer soil tolei After quainted mentionc show the the place going to were goi miles; G one to ] different going to Ajs we were to b fice-bedre president ; being vio to the « yiRomiA. 215 da, the r(. . if' - J '\0i--. Hit " i^V '^:U?J*'- OftAFTEft XXrV. „ ' ' ' " ' ' ' ' ' - Alexandrtay-^ilichmondy — Petersburg. Monday, October 6th, 18G6, at half past 4 o'clock, i took my place in the stage, and ive left Alexandria a lit- tle before 5. We travelled by a pretty rough roacJ, 17 miles, to Occoquhan creek, where we stopped for break- &st Part of our journey being before day-light, I could only remark that the country appeared uneven, and the soil tolerably good. After breakfast, the company began to get a little ac- quainted with each other, and to exchange sentiments. I mentioned before that we were 11 in number, and it will show the nature of travelling in this country, to mention the places of destinati6n. Three of the passengers were going to Richmond, in Virginia, 126 miles distant ; two were going to Columbia, in South Carolina, distant 511 miles; one to Augusta, in Georj^, distant 596 miles; one to Fayetteville, North Carolina, 351 miles; three to different places in the interior of the country; and I was going to Savannah, in Georgia, distant 653 miles. Ajs we constituted a little republic, and several of us were to be many days together, we proceeded to elect of- fice-bearers. The gentleman fiom Fayetteville was chosen president ; the company conferred on me the honour of being vice-president; and thus or^nized we proceeded to the " order of the dav." 216 TKAV«L£i IK Our president, who was called captain, by which title I shall hereafter denominate him, was an excellent tmvd. ling companion. He si^ a good song ; told » good stc ly; said was, withal, very fiicetious, and abounded in mirth, humour, ai^ jollity. He had not long taken the chair, when, with the per. mission of the company,. he sung ahumorous sons', which put us aU m good spuits. He then proposed that each man in his turn should, M^hen called on, by the president^ ^ga song, tell a story, or pay five cents; which being unanimous^ ly agreed to^was immediately carried intO' executipn, and called forth a wonderful degree of merriment and good- humour. I found myself a little at a loss, as I did not wish to part with my cents, and J had nothing but Scots storks and Scots songs; but I soon found that the^e were highly satis&ctory,^ and that the name of Robert JBurns was as well known, and as. highly esteemedlin Virginia, as in Ajrshire... ^;.n..;.,v -,.... .... . ,Qur captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of Mars ; and could adapt the technical language of these professions to the different movements of the stage, with remarkable facility. When the coach heeled to one side, he \vould call out, *' to the right a^d 1^, and cover your danks-r-whiz ;" and when we passed a stream by a ford, he would sing out, ** by the deep nine," accompanied with all the attitudes of heaving the lead. I'he day was plear, pleasant, and healthy; and, in this strain of merriment and good*humour, we prosecuted our journey nmch to our satis&ction. From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a hilly country, and but partially cultivated, to Dun^fries^ a small tbivn containii^g about ,399 inhabitants, court- hoas ahill milef Fi ofRs crossi 300 Ji cipal*^ my, c trade;j The hyVm He^c piaoe/i Chesap where Fmferi ncksbu tfarougl Bowling above V about 8 forms 1 TOmile river, w that desc ver. T] rfversi'iw VOL. TmOIHIA; 217 ich title t travel, oodsto- nded \n the per- gr which ^achmaii at^siinga aniiQous. itipn, and nd good- L did not but Scots tihe^were ^rnswas ;inia, as in d a son of J of these I, with one ^de, ^ver your by a ford, iedwith was plear, |merriment l^iich to [through a Its, court- house^ jail, &c. ; and, from thence, we passed on through a hilly country, but more improved, to Fredericksburg, 25 miles, where we stqjped for the night. Freoer^cxsburc is situated on the south-west side of Rappahannock river. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and consists of about 300 hou8<^s, containing about 1600 inhabitants. The prin- cipal ^public buildings are an episcopal church, an acade* my, ^court^houte, andjaiK It carries on a considerable trade;^ principally in flour and tobacco. The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains, by two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and Hec^eman river ; which unite about 12 miles above this place, and, running k south-east Course, fidls into the Chesapeak bay about 00 miles below Fredericksburg, where it is abotit thred miles broad. It is navigable to Fredericksburg, wherd it has two fethoms water*. Qn Tuesday, the 7th October, W6 started from Frede- licksbui^, at 1 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through an uneven country, and pretty well cultivated, to Bowling*Greenv 22 miles; and a few miles further, we passed Maitapony river. This river rises about 20 miles above where we crossed it, and runs a south-east course, about 80 ihil^ when it joins the Pamunky rivef , and focms ForAr river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge, 70 miles above its mouthf. About 15 miles from this river, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that described^ but the soil rather sandy, to Pfl;mfm% ri- ver. , lltts river is foiled by the north and south Anna rivers^' which rise in the north'-west, hbout 50 or 60 miles f • Jefferson's Ncttes on Virguiia. VOL. I. 2 E t Ibid. 218 TBJlVBLt IN distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above where we croBsed. From thence it ^holds a south««a8t coune, but with many windings, about 50 miles, whei^it forms the junction with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is naviga- ble for boats about 40 miles above where we crossed it YoiK RiviJt is omiposed of these two rivers, and widen- ing to a considerable extent, it pasaes into the Chesape a k bay, by a channel of about three miles. Yorktown is situ, ated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour in the state for vessels of the. largest size. ** The river narrows to the width of a mile at York, and is contained within very hig^ banks, close under which vessels mayfride. It hdds four fethoms water at high tide for 25 nuks«bove York, where the river b a mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fethoms. At the conflueape of the Pa. munky and Mattapony it is reduced to three fiithonu deep.**' York is remarkable as being^ the place jrheve iht contest with Britain was decided by the capture of lord Comwallis. After crossing this river we passed Hanover courthouse, and the road proceeds through a country neariy rimUar to thatalready described, 24miles^ to Richmond, the ca^itolof Virginia, whi^ we reached to dinner. Inour vatyme passed Falling creek, a brancKof James river,.after which the coun- try improves, and is handsomely settled. The day was very clear, and we had at one place a view of the South- ^west Mountains -. ; > ; :^^.^ J«ffi*Wm**' N0t«». 'h*''W »**>••«• Vv s-k- .^it^ ▼IBOIKIAi 919 ifihibitaiits*^ The ttne-houae stands on an eminence^ mA 2r oomiderad the handsomest buildup in the slate, haring' sfiadous apartments for the meeting; of the legisla- ture, and eommodions rooms for the trannction of tl^e pttUie basiness of the state* The odier public buildings are the court-houae^ jail, and theatre, two places for pub- lie urorship, a fteenMsoii's hall, and diree t)obacco ware* houseSk Richmond is situated in a fertile healthy coun- try, and is well supplied with provisions; and it is flou- ttehhtg in manufactures and commerce. There is an MAoary in die neighbourhood^ said to be the best in the United States. The city is remariuibly well situated for fflill-seets ; some of the finest flour-miUs in the state have blely^been erected, and the quantity of flour mami&ctured MMluaUy is immense. There, are also roiling and slitting- siitts^ oU-mitts, and several others; and sevend extensive di8tillerie»>and breweries. Richmond carries on a consi- derable trade, principally in tobacco and flour, with many places of the United States, particularly NewiYork, which ilk return supplies it with dry-goods and groceries. The inhabitants here, lUce those in the sea-ports, are mostly dressed in British manuftctures, and are very gay. They look remarkably well, and the ladies, of whom we only had t glanoe as we passed through the city, appeared very handsome. Some nails in my portmanteau having given way, I carried it to a saddler to get it repedred ; and on my re- turn to the tavern^ I found a native of Perth, ta whom I had sent a messier waiting for me; and what with oon^ versatioR about the place oi our nativi^, the importunity By the census of 1810, the numbsr is 9735. sao TBAVBLS IN of thr ■UgC'drivcr, and the humourof our merry caplaiiit I was almost ^lort sMpt of a diniicar. Having finished my repast as nqudly as 1 could, I took my place iiv the stagey and we set out for Petersbuig. ' Several of the passengers had left us at Richmond; but as we tool^ up two or three gentlemen who were re* turning from a horse-race, the stage waft stillrfuU; and we continued our regulations, which ouc new.. Jndmheraiasr sented to with great cordiality. , : i \ , hi . ri i ^ On Icaviuf^ the city, we passed James River by a long wooden bridge, at which each of the passengers had to pay toll, a circumstance Inever saw bef<)re, it being com* mon to lay the toU on the carriage only. The ^enery at this place was very beautiful. / f James RivfiR is one of the most important in the state of Virginia. It rises near the Allegany Mountains, nearly 200 miles west from. Richmond*, and^ pursuing a oourafc to the eastward, runs through all the other chains^ passes Richmond, and receives the waters of the Appomatnz about 25 miles below that city. < From thence iti exhibits a curious appearance, widening and contracting alteruately, andy by a crooked passage .of about . 70 mile8f< falls into ChesapeakBay 15 miles to the westward of Cape Henry; its whole length, including^ its windings, i^eing upwards 300 miles. The principal tributary streams to. thb river are the Rivatfnah^ on which is Monticelloj the seat of pre- sident Jefferson, the Appomatox, the Chickahomany, the NansenoLond, and the Elizabeth, on which last is Norfolk. f^^The whole, of Elizabeth River is a harbour, and would contain upwards of 300 ships.. The channel is from 150 to 200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet wa- ter to Norfolk. The Nansemond, is navigable to Sleepy rViftcnviA'. 321 dmy stage, nond; arc re. an a»- along had to 1^ com* nery at ,. ■ ■' he state linearly t eourifc K>inatox exhibits aruately, lUa into Henry; wards is river of pre- , the [arfolk. would )m 150 feet wa- Sleepy Hole Ibryends^ 350 lofis; to Sullblk for thole oTlOO torn ; and to Milncr's for thoae of 25v Chiikahommy hai at Ht notith a bar, on which is only 13 feet water at eom- mon flood tide. Vessels peasing thatt may g;6'8 mik^s up the river } those of 10 feet water may go 4 mile^'futther ; and those of 6 tons burden 20 miletr Airther. The Riv^. larii is navigable for cilnoes and batteatux 22 miles, to the South-west Mountains, and may be easily opened to navi- gation through these mountains to its fork above ' Chaih- kittesviHe*." *^ James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the winter", and there is navigable water for thcfm as far as Mulberry Island. A 40 gun ship goes to Jailriestowh, and, lightening 'herself ^ may pass to Harrison's Bar, on which there i^ only 15 feet water. Vessels of 250 tons mi^ go to Warwick ; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile bdow Richmond; from thence is fibout 7 feet water to Richmond; md about the centre of the bwh,'4i feet, wbsre the navigation i^' interrupted bf fall$^ which, in a course of 6 miles, descend about 80 feet perpendicular. Above these^ it is resumed in canoes and' bdtteaux, and is prosecuted safely to within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge ; and even through the Ridge a ton weight has been brought ; and the expence would not be grdat, when tompared with its objects^ to open a tolerable navigation up Jackson's River and Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of How- ard's Credc of Greenbriar, both of which have then water aiiough .to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future state of population, I think it possible that its * Jeffersdn*8 Notes. -,-,?«@rv fMrriiinr ^&vi|iiiM i^y'Sso Ik ihfldci t6 itttx^oigk'Witlf^likt of the PotomaC) and, through that,' to tommumcate by a short piMtag^ ^ the Ohio*:** ' ^"^A Icom^i^'has bdlen inccirporated by the sitate for im. the havig^bri 'of tMs^ river ^n^'kc^^ of llO,00(!rdoirais, Of which" th^ state btimi 50,000; and they ai^ b<^bifd b^ t!il^' charter to remove all obstirdoidons, so'as there may never be less than 12 inches of nt^ter over all tlie sBuoals fi^m the upj^ end of the lower faHs to Pitrtton* borough, ill the iiiid^e of the moiintliins, and distant iront iUciimbild upWaMs of'^ m^^ Th^ colhpahy have p6secbte(i ^e bu^iiiess inth a kuddble iseal, inid have ex[xihded bpibrds of 1860,000 dolh^ npoti'it. A'cana! is (^rai^'fn^m ilie river at tbe upper end'of the MIk- and proceeds 200 yards, when it is lowered 34 feet, Ijy 3 locfe; ahdagaitilehters the river. Frotti tliehtJte the iwvi- gation is pdr^ f6r 3 miksi, Mien ^oliher tilAial'cbnimeiu ces, aiul runs 3j ^les'to a bason at RidhM«id, iitlMt die navigation'^ie^&sites. It Was cbtvtempilated hf th^ (ikf. iei^to (lldhtiiiue the'ckn^ tb the tide V^alct^ but thef jfto is ibrdk''piese^;su^p^^.' • '■ '" ^-^^^^^sf^^^vji- .,,,*v....v and is 80 feet aboveiii^-Water. Ftblrii ^ tii^^nd of the g^t falls t6 tie basin the diMte is 6f miled, and the descCM 4S feet ; iri^itig ih all 128 feet descent in 8 * The navigation of thc! river from above the fiiHs to its ex^nut]^ kmbfig thrm^^ lis considered bett^ than that of any of flie other Atlantic rivers ; and it irtay be ob- ser veil that (fdai is ibiliid here \n great abiihdance, a cir^ CUDII tide V Frc where see bj^ the |dq an4n€ ^> ■ to. maybe has en and foii cea^^ andin^l ^W, a slaves. oflrisb manners n worship, The arenumi It was weleame morning. • Jefferaoh's ftdtcs. stof th6 )f a short .*" ■'■ ■ t for im. ^pitail of uidthey onS) so'as r over all toPatton. stdntfroiA pahf have ^have A'tanal ; fUte, and feet, l)y 3 fetheiwvi- ^ thtf dhit- thfif {Aan is RichAiiind, jpartJftdof mBc^, and iscerit in 8 cumtteQce/iirhi^^ Qccure. no where d^m the viciiuty of tid^ wat^^ in the y^itjited States. From Richmond we travelled 25 iniles to Peterst>urg^ \vher& Wf,9to[i|i!^4^ the night The.cpuntryr I could see t>ut jwur|iaUy,^^ ,>ve passed ii, corsi4j^|j^^c part of it ii| the jdiirk. We. crossed. several small streams in our way, an4 Jnej»r Petersburg ihi^ Appamattox river before allude^ to- .:.. <■;, ■ ,*i Tim liyeic rises near the moimtains, and is in length up- war^.f^ 100, inyUes tQ its junction with James river. ** It may be paylgated as far as Broadway's by any vessel which has cr^)69ed JH^rrison's bar, on James river. It keeps ei^t or|en $set water a mile or two higher up to Fisher's bar, and four feet on that^ and vipwards, where all navigation ceases*." P^TjBlt^ll U.i0 i^^tuated on the afonesaid river, imm^.;; (^y |;]|^QW d)^iaU^^^ ^ndjs a place of consid^bl^ wealth and imp9rt{^;i^ey carrying on a great trade in tobacco and flour, a considerable, portion of which is wiUi New York. The populationv in Isop, was> 2Q34 free pepple, and 1481 slayes. The population, is said to be cpmposc^d principally of irisb p^^e, and they are distinguished f^ fi^ liberal mannors, and high-spirited patriotism. The principal public builduigs are, two plapes for pubUq worshiqp* a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall. The market is well supplied with provisions; and there are numerous mills in and about the town. ult was .past 11 o'clock at night before we arrived^ and we learned that the stage was to set out at one o'clpck next morning. We conddered it therefore entirely useless to *. Jefferson's Notes. sm TIj^Ay^liB IN go4P i^, and the ci^ptain carr]e4 nie to see some gentle- mePc of his acquaintance. There weie six or, eight of fbeiii, aU ligreeat^le young men, most of them irishmen ; an4 the/ captain, jb^ing intimately acquainted with them \vas i^elcome^ F^thllQ^CJIi^^^^ and I wascordiaUy Ijaken by the handas hisiriend, for whom be was (leased ^toex» f^Tpss^ a particular regard* Tb^y had a violin^ in the r^, whiph was.imipediately adjusted to the tune of the Thistle i0td t^, Shfwtrock% aaxd we. had a most hannonious«con. cert of jig^, wd strathspeySy whjle Yqnkee Doodle was, not fbiigqtten^, l^he song, the sentiment, and thetoast follow* ed. ** An age could i(iot have made us better acquainted," ^dl we^ unitf^d in ppinion> that tbere was^ no country on the face of the earth like this, where people of all nations^ kin- dreds, tongues, and, languages, could with sucb haj^y &• c^i^ n>eet and harmonize in the spirit of unity, and in the bond of pe^^e, " 3ut pleasures ^re Bke poppies spcead." "^e were in the full exercise and enjoyment of thes^ sen- timents when we were called away to take our places in the stage, and I left this litd^ liberal circle with sentinients of friendly regard. - Octobqr 8, at one o'clock, we left Petersbuirg. At thb early hour we could see nothing, bat we Jelt that the coun- try M'as hilly, and the road very rough. By the time the day (k^^ed upon us we had ^veiled aboul 20 miles, and the country appeared pretty fertile; we saw tnany flourish- ing fields of tobacco, but, in consequence of the long and severe drought, the country exhibited a parched appear- ance. * The reader will not find this aif in any of thei modern English collections. ■Vx7*'S!Sp »«^t^■■i JCSB-/"*^' ■'1*.'i''~-' VIBGlKlJki i325 gOitle. light of shmen ; ly tjaken eThisUe ousicon- > wdB not St foUow* uamted;' 37^^ op the ions, Idn- happyfii- uidinthe sspcead." thes^ sen- places in LtiQie^ts At $3 miles fix>m Petersburg we passed Ab/f away river^ by a wooden bridge. This river rises about 50 miles above where we crossed it, and running a south-east course, above 100 roiles,^ it forms a junction with the Meherrin river, in .North Carolina, and^ thro^ghtthe medium of the Chowan river^ falls into Albemarle sound. At ^3^^ miles flnom the Nottaway river we drossed the Meherrin. The latter part of the distance, the country was much improved, and the road good. We nowiodSl- sionally saw some cn^ of cotton, but the princ^ pro- duce was tobacco and com. ' The Mehenm river rises about 60 miles above where we cipssed it,and running 60 miles more, in a south-east directkH), it forms a junction with the Nottaway, before mentioned^; -fjfi - ^^ }> ^ ;; '^ About 12 miles beyond this^ l^st mentioned river, yve passed the North Carolina tiney and here i pause to take H' view of, the gi^eat and: importaiat ; state of Virgima^ f » • ; vol. t. 2 t t.>. I'.f ^' ifiifVMil im ^'tma^M OHAFTER XXXVI. < -, Virginia. SfiFORE 1 prbceed to ^ve « genatil account of this iMate, I may notir^, that a most important service has been tendered to its geogra^y, by the pubfication of the Notes of Mr. Jefeson; a iirork replete widi valuable information, Itftd Exhibiting m evety p{^ the marics of a vigorous in- tellect and a philosophic ftund. This work may be justly Cohsidiered as the basii^j^ die geography of the state of Vir^ia ; and though, from the progressive nature cS the subject, it does not now Conttun the necessaiy infermation, on some points; yet the traveller, in this state, will- find it a most valuable x;onq)anion; and by giving it a careful pe- rusal will be amply rewarded for his trouble. 1 " The Notes were written in tiba year 1781, and some- what corrected and enlarged in l'"82, in answer to queries proposed to the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M. de Marbois, secretary of the French legation), then resid- ing in America.'^ The work is arranged^im the follow- ing plan. * * " 1 Boundaries. 2 Rivers. v 3 Sea-ports. f 4 Mountains. 5 Cascades. ^6 Productions, inmeral, ve|etable, and animal. ▼I»«|]|l4r. 20 >/•'» mt of this 5 has been ^e Notes formation, gdrous in- y be justly he state of tufe of the [ifonnation, I will find it careful pe- 1 1 # * p,:- 7 Climate^ ' ■ '„ . } 8 Populatiaii. 9 Militaiy force. 10 Marine force. 11 Aborigines. ^'^^ 12 Counties and towns^. 13 Constitution. 14 Laws. 15 Colleges, buildings, andi roads. 16 Proceedings aa to tones. ITReU^on. 18 Msmners. . 19 Manu&ctures. 30 Sul]jects of commerce. 21 Weights, measures, and mcmey. 22 Public revenue. 23 Histories, memorials, and state papers.^' With three niambers of an Appendix. It is from this valuable work that the /acts exhibited in the following shcnrt sketch are chiefly taken ; and wherever the brevity of the subject would admits I have given them in Mr. Jefferson's own elegant language, although I have adhered to my original arrangement of the various sub- jects. It may be observed here, that ^nce Mr. Jefferson's Notes were ccAipiled, Kentucky has been formed into a separate state, which makes a material alteration in the dimensions of the state of Virginia. ViRGXNi^ is situated between 36° 30' and 39° 43' north latitude, and 1° east, and 6° 25' west longituder The extreme length of the state from east to west is 442 miles, and the extreme breadth from the North Carolina^ line to the Pennsylvania Ufie is 235; but it may b^ 'n 1^ ^ 'rtammM, db^iervedthat there is a small port of thfe^ state that inches along the banks of the Ohio, to the w€SI of Fenniylvanie, aboiit 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and there is another small part, about 55 miles Idng and 12 broad, to the east of the Chesapeak. The area is com. puted at 70,500 square miles, beii^ nearly as large as the whole island of Britaui, computed at 77,243; Hie humber of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000. ..^ i\^ ^-^^ The face of the country is sbnienivlmt adHkilated to Pennsylvania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland. The eastern part extends plong the 'sea coast alk>ut 115 miles, of which the outlet of the Chesapeak, already noticed, occupies 20 ; and this elegant confluence of waters, so often referred to, forms a great varirty inthis part of the 'State, From' thig sear coast tb the hl^d of the tide ivat^rs, about 100 miles, the country is nfostly levd, and abounds with «i*a*iiipfei' From' thenicfe to the mountains it is agreeably unevt^n,*ftnft affords delightftil prbspects. Tl^ riiblintaiileuB disti^dt is abbut 100' miles in breadth, arid thi^ itidges ^dbttiifluti,' 4^ in Pennsylvania, to range from W)rth-^§t to 'siiuth-iivfelrti ^' ©eyondi the ihouritains the ciiiuiWy'S iAuch VaHegati^-^here swellihg out irito con- Sid^bfe^ hins,^th^re siibsiding ifito agrefeabfe' v^leys ; and sd^'cisritiifiues' to tfie Ohi6, about 60 miles. The Alfe^y chain Is the great *ridge Which di^es tfie waters oF the Atiantic frbiti thel' Mississippi, arid its sfuAmit is more elevated above the o6ea* It is on the aacent.«^ MuUi which seems to have be^n cloven through its ifogth by sqme great convulsion. The fissure, ju^t «t'the,bridg|p, is, by some admeasurements^ 270 feet^deepj^by^rOthiBi^pnly 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and JK) at the top; this of course detetmines the lengths, of the bridge, and its height^ from the water. Its bi^thjin the middle,, is .about i30 fqet, but. more i^t th^ end? > and the thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40 cnrth, ' due, V itone.^ dMsbr of the Thoug put! W kitknt invohm parapet, abouta fit>m thi delightfi finotiaR ieyare and sprii spectatoJ nanow, above an< ▼iewof 1 ontheol which it commodi ed eisew passing i] Jame|» ns grist-mill, above*." Jeffers9n's Notes*- t lb. \ lb* lb. VOL. I. TlftOIMIA. S33 Mty and lomeof fidci the ;aU^dthe bout 100 irof sucl^ ^ before g P^ve in iiBit > A part of' this thickness is constituted by a coat of earth, idiich g;ives growth to many large trees. The resi- due, with the hiU on both sides, is one solid rock of lim^- Mone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but die hvrger axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of (he areh, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided hi some psrti with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have reso- lution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You invohuiitarily fell on your hands and your feet, creeps to the parapet, and peep over it. Looking down fi'om this height about a minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the view Stotn th^ tcyp be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the fnodons arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what tliey are here : so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were, up to heaven ! the rapture of the spectator is really indescribable ! ' The fissure continuing OBROW, deep, and straight, for a considerable distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleaang view of the North Mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge on the other, at the distance each of them of about five mUes. Tlus bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public and very commodious passage over a valley, which cannot be cross- ed elsewhere for a Considerable distance. The stream pasB^ig under it is called Cedar credc. It is a water of Jame|» river, and sufficient in the driest seasons to turn a grist^miU, though its fountain is not more than two miles above*." lb. VOL. I. • Jefferson's Notes. 2g b^S- ^4 visomiA. /' There area great variety of mmerala and mmenl^iijriiigt in the state. Iron is very plenty, and aeveral mines of lead have been opened. Some copper, black-leadt and preciious stones have been found, and in one inatance gold was discovered. Limestone is plenty, and coal is abua. dant at Richmond, in some places among the mountains, and in the western country. Of the mineral springa, the warm and hot springs, and the sweet springs are the most lemarkable. They are situated near the aourcea of James river, at the foot x>f the Allegany mountains, about 4S miles apart. They are now well known, and much resorted trings in several places ; and on the Kanhaway river, 67 miles from its outlet, there is a very remarkable mr spring. The hole from which it issues ii of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, and the current of air so strong ** as to give the sand about its orifice the motion which it has in a bdling spring. On presenting a Ughted candle or torch within 18 inches of the hole, it flamfs up in a column of 18 inches in diameter, and 4 or 5| feet in height, which sometimes bums out within 20 minutes, and at other times has been known to continue burning fo three days, toid to have been left in that state. The flame is unsteady, of the denu^ of burning ^»irit% aodvsnielk like burning pit-coal^." ^^ There is a similar aprkg on Sandy river, the flame of which is a column about IS inches diameter, and three feet highf." ^ The soil in the low part of the stat« is sandy^ except od ^ banks of the rivers, where it is very richw Between the head of the tide- waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, and a considerate portion is good. Amoog H- * Jefferson's Notes. t Ibid. ^tceM^'in* «litelthy^ •^'Tha -fe fke EiigH] l^beb^oisttt mmc ^^^kieiiitb Kiipceti « fo 1774 V dertcc. Tl was the fin 2 senators a VIWUHIA. S39 m of » and egoki abuit. oiUnni, emoU Jamci Snulct rtedto» I on the la vay ssuesb It of air ^moticn flighted anfsup S feet in ites,aiid for on »ut IS i^ llMnmim»MlHi>tiiCTC ift i great deal of poor land, but It ia hu c mwuid wMi rich valleys. Beyond the mountains the ioil it g«inel«Hy rich lAid fertile. ^^>^ ««The cKmate of Viiginia b very various, and 13 subject t» great And sudden changes. In the greater part of the country below the head of the tide- waters, the summes lie hot and sultry, iind the winters mild. From thence to the fool of the mountains the air is morcf pure and elastic, ihdrboth summers and winters are several degrees oifi»teiik« perature below the low countiy. Among the mountaina» tfie sumrii^rs art! delightful, though sometimes the hecit is ^fry gfM. To ^ westwai^ the climate is temperatfs tliesUfhUid^ being cool^ and the winters wanper than on Ae sen coast. £xcept hi the neighbourhood of stagnaM #aters^ b» the low country, Virginia has, up(m the whole, «healtiiy CKmate. i., ../^ ^^ThisDinit penflanmt settlement of Vfa^nia was b)r the Eniglish^ in mo. In 1613, a Mr. Rolf married l^bCbhoiltifsV the daughter of Powhatan, an Indian ehie^ Mi th6'cohhekkMi#aa the foundation for a fHendljr ^yMimeniebetweeh die English settlers and die Indianltf. nv 1616^lhe (iiiiture of tobacco b^citnie gieneral. The siimfc j^eol^ Mf > Rdtf 1^^ wife Pdcahonta^ visited £tiglan(i, %hei« iihb>^«^ ihtrbdUced at court, and treated with gt«itt m^^^9i^iM'^ year following at Gittvesend, tfiiA I' left a BCitij whose d^so^danl^ sdll survive fai Virgima Ift I6Cl8'did^)^y amouDited to Upwards of 69,000 p^opte. Ini'1774 Vhglnia appointed seven dele^tes to the iAfk €6h^W^ ioidtodk e^ decisive pat in the war for Indlj^- dence:^ The slii^ constitution was framed in 1776, and was the first in the United States. Virginia how sends 2 senators and 22 representatives to congress. 4 H m vtiienfiAi; y*^- 'The 'ittiile is divided into an easteiiri «nd>«vettm trict, and 90 counties. In 1800 it contained ai pNdimktticin oF^^540,d53 'free persons, and 345,796 idaves,] in fall 886,149 ; being upwards of 12 to the square mile* m ^1 Th^reare no towns of any maierkd comfequenoem Vir* ginia^ 'which has been attributed, and pifobal^^ Willi rea- sony to the circumstance of the state being so complete^ %teriiected with navigable rivers, that a market is bcought dmtoit to every mim's door» and diey have no inducement to establish large cities. '^m o ^ Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commerciij in the Atate. It contained, by the census of IQQO, nearly •74XX) inhabitants^ which have since greatly encreasedf. it is a place of very extended commerce^ principally i^ ^(tur and tobacco, and its commeroe* and poptilatioi^ will probably continue to encrease, for a Iqng period; A4^. '^flbisaii remarks, in his Notes, ''that it will piqbabt^F'be ^emporium for all the trade of theChes^ipealinb^ and .Its I waters, and a canal of 8 or, 10 milc^iwill fbrpgdoi itffil ^t of the Albemarle sound and it9 lyater^" Tiiersam^ sentiment was expressed in conversation, with mes, vBujtiit %|j**^f?, • » m0m§ ? >Qn \ never. :>. Qit'Jc Sufiblk, ville^ r. There ihe^te. more tha i?j>' The'.-s mads, bu The-cana ler^^th it is 16 J] pose. C Ihe'navig 1^ buikl arphHpctu Iwd? Bi ^sktemble ^wouldnot aEFangpeme tfaeipiemb of b^ban ^sometinies unknown, ficientlyd] ingoneof ofaprofcs Jnent,perh iVif. pktdy oemeot , nearly «Bsed#. ion wiU % Mf* I (Waters •Witty* jn t.On York riverand its iivaters, York, Newcastle, Ha^ ROver. -.v^ On Jianes river and its waters,, PortsmQuth,HaiB{xtion, Sttfiolk) Smithfidd, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlpttes- i ,, TJierQ is na very important town in the western part of ihe f^le. WheeUngi on the Ohio, wiV^> ''^^d4',?*jc^' ," ifi. The state has of .late been considerably improved^ by roads, but in that branch, much yet remains totbefdon^. ' The canal contemplated by Mn Jefferson between the wa- , lers^^ the Chesapeak and Albemarle sound has been cilfc. it is l6F.miles in length, and answers a most valuable pur:!' pose. Conudi^able improvements have been made upopi the* navigi^ion of the Shenandoah river; and thei^ are se* ^vua^ veiiy important roads and canals projected^ As ti|o i^ l^ildings, Mr. Jefoson remarks, V The genius 'iK* architecture seems to have shed its maledictions over; tins Ivnd* ^ Buildii|gs< are often erected by individuals at con;- rsidembk expence. To ^ve these; symmetry and taste woiUd^ not increase their cdst* It would only change; the anangpement of the materials, and form the combination of ^die^pendsers. This would often costless than the burden of b^barous ornaments with which these buildings ire ^sometimes charged- But the first principles of the art are unknown, and there exists scarcely a model among us st^f- ficiently chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture be- ing one of the fine arts, and, as such, within the department of a professor of the, college, according to tl^ new armnge- ^ment, perhaps a spark may M on some young subjects of miM miii\ym up thdi* goiiuiir litt ffsed 6f wood, and'few of them^hat I saw hEtid>^d#ier syiRHM^ bf design^ or elegance tS execution to^itcontmend thent;'^ Upon the whole, on^thii 'branch, the Vir^nians seem'to be iar behind theo- northern neigh- boinnii and th^ire is stiil mu^h rooiii for tlie exercise of idrcHlte(!itural genius. ^ The great ma^^ ^ th6 population in Vfrginia are far- mersi cMPi te they are tehned hc*ei planters. The princi* pal bmrithes of agrieulture for ex^rtation, are wheat and ft^bfticco; and the Mma produce in plenty, Indian corti, rye, bftrtey, buckwheat, 8cc Hemp and flax ar6 abundant, and ili^^iider^ble quantities of cotton are raised in the ^utherA pmi Wth& Btate. Indigo is cultivated with suceess, and fl^e silk- worm is a native of the country, #iough Aot miich attended to. The fields likewise produce pbtatoie^^ both c^t^eet and cotomon^ turnips, parsnips, carrots, pun^tpkint, and ground nuts; iind of grasses, there are clovers, red, #hite, and yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue girass, aend crab grass. b^ffhe orchards abound in fruits, appl^, pears, p^ch^^ ^inces, cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and pkim^. **' The domestic animals thrive well, hlorses, cows, sheej^) hogs, poultry ; atd there is a great variety of wild game. ^' The manufactures of the state are mostly of the dbmes- tic kind. I have not heard of any e^^lished upon a large scale. Hence the quantity imported annually from Bri- tain must be immense. The principal port in the state being Norfolk, it carries on a vigorows trade with Europe, •> M yinmvUf 939 fSdvcw I, par- is ari I saw eutkm ranch, heigh- ;iae of ii« far- princh *At and rti, ry^y ifit, and DiHheit ^BS, and t much tit^ both ftpkint, ;rs, fto% V grass, gafne. Idbmes- alarge Bri- state in^tlie MfplDS pfodmie of the state, m^ imports laiigcljr of dry?g9p4&; but a great poitioa ^ the trade of the stato is earned cm through the medium df other places, pardcuk bdy New York. '; The expartsof the state, in 1805, amounted to 5|606,62G| dollars^ <^ wluoh the gieater part was domestic produce } but as no pait of the produce sent to other states is inckid- ed in l;he custom-house returns, I should be inclined to esti- male the surplus produce at nearly double that amount, and ^ir imports, principally of manu&ctures, at neaify aa much) of which probably one half is from Britaki. The Kotes on Virginia contain ample ii^ormation cm the state of socie^, Mr. Jefferson considers that it is ma- tsrialiy afi^ted by the existence of slavery. " There must ' doubtless,'' says he, "be an unhappy influence on the maimers of our people hff t^e existence of slavery among as. The whole ccnnmerce between master and slave is a perpetual exercise of the most boisterous passions, the most unreniitting despotism on tiie one part, and d^rad« iag submissions on the other. Our children see this, an4 learn to imitate it; for man is an imitative animal. Thw quali^ is the germ of all education in him; from his cra- dle to his grave, he is learning to do what he sees othecs do. If a parent could iind no motive, either in his philan* throphy or his self-love, for restraining t'le intemperance of passions towards his ^ve, it should always be a suffi- cient one that his child is present. But generally it is not sufficient. The parent storms, the child looks on, catchei^ the lineaments of wrath, puts on the same airs in the circle of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions^ and thus nursed, educated, and exercised in tyranny, can- PC* b^t, be stam^d; by^it with 5>dious jeculifffities. The 240 VlltOfNIA. man must' b^ a prodigy who can retain his manners ^ind morals undepmved by such circumsteuioesv And with what execration should the statesman be loaded, who, per. mitting one half of the citizens thus to trample on the rights of the other, transforms those into despots, and these into enemies, destroys the morris of the one part, and the amor patria of the other. For if a slave can have a coun- try in this world, it must be any other in prefei^nee to that inivhich he is bom to live and labour for another; in whiSh he must lock up the faculties of his nstfure, contri. btite as far as depends on his individual endeavours to the enslavement of the human race, or entail his own misera. ble condition on the endless generations proceeding ftom Mm. With the morals Of the people their industry also is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will labour for himself who cdn make another labour for him. This is so true, that of the proprietc^s of slaves a very small pro- portion, indeed are ever seen tO labour. And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have re- y thoved their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God? that they are not to be violated but with his wrath? Indeed I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just; th£tt hi^ justice cannot sleep forever; that considering num- bers, nature, and natural means only, a revolution of the wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation,, is among pos- sible events; that it may become probable Ify supernatural interference! The Almighty- has no attribute that can take side with us in such a contest.-^But it is impossible to be temperate, and to pursue this subject through the va- rious considerations of policy, of morale, of history natural and civil. We must be contented to hope they will force their -w percept spirit oi from th prepann cipaiion, to be wi extirpati Thi» ( i»g, doet it is prot among h siderable nia has 1 and faasy the quest] odious^ that the in was a par Qot unfbr probable J person, wi expressed lie morals, But it exij civil sQcie branch of a work of . There a College of There are, ^ tl]|pi« VOi. I, T4KGIKIA# 241 tbeir wi^f i!;»tQ evecy one'4 mind. I lliink a change alre^dji; peroeptiblje, sinqe the origin of tl|e present xeyolution. The spirit of .tli9 master is abating i that, of the slave rising i»m the dust^, Ilia condition, mollifying, the way, I hope, preparing, under« the auspices of Heaven, for a total eman« cipatiQny and that this is disposed, in the order of events^, tQ be with the consent of the masters, rather tii^an by their extirpation.-' Thi» elegant extract^ which I could not think of abridge iog, does honour to the head and heart of its author ; and it is probable,^ v#rom the great reputation which he hdds among his countrymen, tliat it may have produced a con- siderable effect in assuaging the evils of slavery, . Virgin nia haa long since prohibited the importation of slaves* and has, by her members in congress, always supported the question for a total prohibition of that branch, the most odious feature jin it. And it is but justice here to observe^ that tjie introduction of slavery in this, and in the other atateS| wasa parAqfthepohpyofthei^o'LomA-L syste^. Hadit Opt unfortunately taken place before the revolution) it is probable it never would liave taken place ; for almost evor)^ person, with whom I have conversec^ on the subject, have expressed ^ir opinion, that it is not only hurtfijd jbo pub- lic morals, but contrary to fvery maxim of sound policy,; But it exists, it Js incoipcrated with the whole system 9f dvil society f itj influence has extended through every bKinch of domestic tscpnomy ; and to do it away must b^ a work of time. ,^ V There are two colleges in the state; one of them, the CoUege of William and Mary, very liberally endowed. There are sevend academies, and schools in each county; and dii^re ^ j^uinerpuf teachers^ in private families, ^s VOJ.. I. 2 H 242 viRenrtA. A.;. tutors: The itidiiis, fti short, for educating thfe'Di^ealthy are ample, ^d Extensively applied; but the* system seems to be defective, so *£ir as the mass of the pe&ph are eon- cerrlecl, and that important branch deserves the early at- tentidii of an enlightened legislature. '^ At the period others.. But it does me uo iiiiustict for my neighbour to say> there are twenty Gods, or no God. It neither picks my pocket, nor breaks my leg. > If it be said, his testimony in ^ court of justice cannot be relied on, reject it then, apid be the stigniapn him* Constraint may make him worse, by. making him a hypocrite ; but it will never make lum a truer man. , |t may.,^x him obstinately in his errors, but will not cure them. Reason and free inquiry are the only effectual agents against error. Give a loose to them, they will sup*' port the, true religion, by bringing eveiy false one to their tribunal, to the test of investigation. They are the natu- ral enemies of error, and of error only^ Had not tlj^e Ro- man, government permitted free inquiry, Christianity could never hav^ been introduced^ . Had not free inquiry, be^ indulged at the era of the refbr^tion, the corruptions, of christiani|;y could not have beten purged away^ If it be restnuned now, the present corruptions, will be protected,' and new ones epcouraged. Was the government to pre- scribe to us our medicine and diet, our bodies would be m such keeping as our souls are now. Thus, in France, the emetic was once forbidden as a medicuie, and the po- tatoe as an article of food. Government is just as infalli- ble, too, when it fixes systems in phy^cs. G^ileo* was sent to the inquisition for affirming, tlmt the earth was a sphere. The government had declared it to be as fiat as a trencher, and Galileo was obliged to abjure his error. This error, however, at length prevailed ; the earth be- V 9M VIROlKfA. Came a glob^;^and D^scaites declared, it wMrled round its axb by a vortex. ' The govemmefit in winch he lived tvas wis^ enbtigh to see that tins was no questkxi of civil jurisdicticn, or we should all Mve been involted by an. thority in vortices.- In feet, the vortices have been ex. plodsd, and the Newtonian principle of gravitation is now more firmly established, on the basis of reason, than it would be were the government to step in, and meke it ah article of necessary fiiith. Reason and experiment have beeh indulged^ and error has fled before them^ It is error i^ne Which needs the support oi government. Truth can stand hy itseff. Subject opmion to coercion, whom will yoii m«dte your inquisitors ? FalliUemen; men governed hy bad passions^ by private as well as public reasons. And Wliy subject it to coercion? To produce uniformity. But is uniformity of (pinion desirable? No more than the fece and stature. Introduce the bedof Procrustes then, and, as there is danger that the large man may beat the fimall, make us all of a size, by lopping the former, and stretching the latter. Difierence of opinion is advantage^^ ous in rdi^on. The sevCr^ sects perform the^. office of a^ ffCTWor iwor«wj over each other. Is uniformly attainable? Millions of innocent men, women, and children, since the introduction of Christianity, have been burnt, tortured, fined, imprisoned. Yet we have not advanced one inch towards uniformity. What has been the eflfect of coer- cion ? To make one half of the world fools, and the other hypocrites; to support roguery and error all over the earth. Let us reflect that it is inliabited by a th(Aisand millions of people ; that they profess probably a thousand different sy^stems of religion ; )that our's is but one of that ^ousand ; that, if there be bnt one right, and ours that •»> vtioniu. J 5245 round I lived f civil by au. en ex- IB now than it ^e it ah »t have is error uth can yea will ovemed reasons. one, we would wish to see nine hundred and ninety-nine'^ •wandering sects gathered into the fold of truth. But against such a majority^ we cannot effect this by foroei Reason and persuasion are the only practicable instruments^ To niabs way for these, free inquiry must be indulged^ and how can we wish others to indulge it^ while we re*' fuse it ourselves. But every state, says an inquisitor, has established some religion. No two, say I, have established the same. Is this a proof of the in&llibility of establish^ ments? Our sister states of Pennsylvania and New York> however, have long subsisted without any establishment at alU The experiment w^as new and doubtful when they made it. It has answered beyopd conccptionw' They flou- rish infinitely. Religion is weU supported; of various kinds, indeed, but all good enough; aU sufficient to pie- serve peace and order. Or, if a sect arises, whose tenets would subvert morals, good sense has £iir play, and reasons and laughs it out of doors, without suffering the state to be troubled wilh it. They do not hang mcsre malefactOTs than vi« do* They are not more disturbed with religious dissentions. On the contr^^ their har« numy is imparalleled, ^d can be ascribed to Nothing but thdr unbounded tolerance, because there is no other cir? cumstance in which they di£fer from every other nation on earth. They hafve made the happy discovery, ^ksaX the way to silence religious <^sputes is to take no notice of them. Let us, too, give this experiment fair play, and get rid, while "we may, of these tyrannical laws.'* The experiment has been tried, and has siicceeded.-^-^ An act passed the "Virginia Assembly, in the beginning of 1786, in which it is declared, that, being " well awar^ that^p^ghty God hath created the n^ind free ; thiit aU * ' # sue VIRGINIA^ attempts to influence it by temporal punislimtnts or bur. thens, or by civil incapacitations, tend only to be^t habits of hypocrisy and meanness, and are a departure from the plan ,Qf the Holy Author of our religion, who, being Lord over both body and mind, yet chose not to prc^iagate it by coercions in either, &c. — ^Be it therefore enacted by the General Assembly, That no man shall be compelled to frequent or support, any religious worship, place, or ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced* restrained, molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; but tluit all n^en shall be free, to profess, and by arguments to maintain, their opinions in matters o( reli- gion, and that the same shall in no wise diminish, enlarge, or affect thcik civil capacities.". The following are the outlines of the form of state go- vernment. *' The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a governor, chosen annually, and incapable of acting mon: than three years in seven. Ht is assisted by a council of eight members. The judiciary, powers ate divided among several courts. Legislation is exercised by two houses of assembly, die one called the House of Delegates, compos- ed of two members firom each county, chosen annually, by the citizens possessing an estate for life in 100 acres of uninhabited land, or 25 acres with a house and lot on it, or a hous^ and lot in some town. The other, called the Senate, consisting of 24 members, chosen quadrennially by the same electors, who, for this purpose, are distributed into 24 districts. .The concurrence of both houses is ne- cessary to the pass^ of a law. They have the appoint- ment of the governor and council, the judges of theidupo vnidiNiA. 347 « bur* habits Dm the g Lord igate it :tedby Dpelled lace;, or htrained, lor shall uons or and by q( reli- enlarge, st^tego- not courts,' auditorft^ attorney-general, treasurer, register of the land-oiRce, and delegates to congress."^ - I have bestowed considerable pains to milled in3rse1f master of the geography and political importance of this state, beciiuse, from its situation and extent, it must ne- cessarily have a great influence on the body politic of tht United States. It is the largest state in the Union, and has given tiVo presidents, out of three, to the United States. It is geographically central, and, from its posi- tion, must necessarily include, or be contiguous to, the seat of the general government, while the states remain in their present united form. Perhaps, too, it may be the best situation for forming a general theory of the climate of the United States, and probably Monticello, the seat of Mr. Jefferson, may be one of the best positions in Virgi- nia for making experiments, and contrasting them with those made in other places; and Mr. Jefferson 'has in a very laudable manner availed himself of this advantage. As Mr. Jefferson's Notes are well known, and may be considered as containing authentic information on many important topics relative to this his native state, I have indulged myself by making copious extracts on the par* ticular subjects to which they had reference ; and I shall now close this article by a few more miscellaneous sub-^ > j^cts, which I consider not only as valuable in them- selves, but very important as containing Mr. Jefferson's opinions On several pomts of political economy* 'V .,*'' appoint- iupe^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^* 1.0 ^B£ m itt lU 12.2 IS itt ^ II £ LS 12.0 liiiUi^U4 Fliotographic ^Sciences GarporatiGn 4^ ^ 4S \ WiiS 23 WIST MAM STROT WNSTn,N.Y. USM (716) •72-4503 ^4^^^^^^' ^ ^\^ '4^ M8> The flowing extracts are from the chraft of « funda- ment&l (Constitution for the commonweaHh of >Vif|g^nia. 0^. <« rpi^ ,ggji^ gigj^. g},^! for ^y^ hereafter be ' govtmed as 1l oomtinioiiiireaHb* ♦ ,,. u ji^ power of government shaU be divided mto three distuict departments, each of them to be confided to a separate body of niagistnicy"-^]egislative— ^udiciaiy—- and execnttve. a»*^ V <« The kgidatwe shall consist of two branches, die one to be called the house of delegates, the other die senate*- and bodi the general assembly. ■' *^ The ddegates to bo elected annually ; the Senators bieniiEtUy, and one half to vacate their seats each year, *' Ail free male dtizens, of full age, and sane mind, wh»forone year before shall liave been vesideatia the county, or shall through the wh<^ of that time have pos- sessed dierdn real^ prc^ierty of the value of , or shall for the same time have been^^ enrolled in the militiaiandno Other^' isliSH have a right to vote fisr ddegates lor the said coiiiilty^i«id£p«r senatorial dectm fir the distiie^ They shidl'give their irotes personally, and ^mvd votf. ' s « The executive power shall be-ocercisedbya^av^r- lAw*, who shall be d^osen by joint ballot of bothhousesof assembly, and when diosen shaU remain m office five years, and be ineligible a second time. ''""' ^* A i^oiincil of state shall be chosen%y joint bafiot of | both houses of assembly, who shall hold their offices seiien years, and be ineligible a second time — ^Their duty shall be to attend and advise the gHHior. They shall annually chuse of die vacani cTcisB. ".1! andsu proper wit, a 4 aodahi tobe "Th icom^f e law, am which s "ftii tbaniial; andpiub - -■" ■ ^^ji / agg of numf] of formii by comn it|j|»ecif thanthoa tionof it VOL, I I. * ^ mfunda- Mvned as m^f^-. . into three &ded toa ifu^— and St, the one > senate— le densitoR I year, ane mind, lent' in the liave pos- ter shall tiftjandno srte said e^ They y # gaver- ilKOuaeaof office live itbaHotorl ices seven |dut]^ 8»lll annuity 1^: 249 chuse tLprewkntf ,who s^l preside in council in absence of the governor, and^Hfhc^ in casQiiff his offioe becoming vacant by death, or otherwise, shall have authority tp ex^, crcise. aU his functions), , till a new qippi^itmenl be made, ^v *y The juthckuy^ ^hall be exercised , by county GOurt% and such Other infepor pourts as the legisli^ure shall think proper to continue or to erect ; by three superior court% to witf a €9urt jof tidmiralty, a general court of cpmn^m law, wd a high cQuii^.of chancery ; an4 by one supreme comnt, to be CfiUipd the court of appeals. , ,y *'The governor, two counsellors of state, and a judge from^' eaph of wthe ^^upca^or cou^^^^ chancery, coipmon law^ j|nd ^miraltyy iShall be ^ cpuncil to , i«yise all bills which shall have passed both houses of iussenibly. ^. *MIheji|ilitary sha)l be subor()ifiate to the civil power. " luting presses s(iall be sjubject to np, other restraint toiliabteneps |o legal prosecution^ for &lse facts printed and publiiih«!d-" ./■». *\ Out aie Jfasi»;»o inconvernqnce*.^ be,,t^ into.^ seale againsl^the Advantage expected. fton^ a,multiplie.hPiiq[Hne8S pf : those uni^ ia society to, hwrnoiuze as jDUKBh at possible in matters, whipb Ihey must of n^cesw^ trwuNKfl&^gethjBr, Civil government bdng the sole object of formii^ societies, its actmini^tration must be co^ucted by coQiiXU)^ conftpt E^^ i^peciesof govec^ipent hai it| Jigecific principles. Qun^, perhaps are more pec^li|t| than those of^any other in d^ jiniverse. It is a^con^^jOiM^ tion.of the freest principle^^f the English constitution, VOL. I. 2 I $50 with dtherft derived from lutuml pght tlnd natural reaaon. To these nodling^ cantf iki6re opposed than the ttiaxims of absolute monarchies. Yet finom auch we are to expect the greatest number of enugtants. They VfiXL bring with th^ tiie principles of the governments tbsf leave, imbibed iii theil^ early youth ;• or if able to throw thiem ofl^ h win b<6 In ^xchartge for an unbounded licentkmsnesa, passing, as b usual, from bn^ extreme to another. * It would be a miracle were they to stop precisely at the point of temperate liberty. These principles j with their toguage, diey w3i transmit to their children. In propordon to their numbetB they will share with us the legislation* They will inftise into it their spirit^ warp and bias^its direo* tioU) and reader h a faeteKogeneous, kicoherent, distracted masa. I ma^ ajjypeal to e'xperience, during the present cbtitest, tbt a verification of ^lese conjectures.'^ After a kvf ^ther rfiflectiohs, Mr. Jeflferson adds-^'^ If ^y come of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights ^ atken- ship: but I doubt-the expediency of Mvtliii^ Mem by ex- traordinary en^ibUl^ements: Imeanfutt that thes&doubts should extend to useful art^cers. The poticy^xf Ihat mea- afiiih^ %)ends 6n vevy dHltent conaideiatioiiB. a iSJ^ttiv no If6^ffeilttin6ibtluf^ They irill-aftisr^wMlegoto ^ plough imd theihoe ; but^ in the metui tune, they will tbacb tts^ something we db ^lot know. It ifet not ap in ^^gritfilrure. The indifiereht sttite of that ittnong^tta does Myt ^ja^oteed from a want c^ knowledge merely i it^is^rom 61^ fntving such quamities^of land to waste as^we please. Ih Eurtijse the object is^ to mdce the iflbat of ih^ land, b(boul*;bdttg abundant : herg it is to make the mmit >of ouSl^iibbUr, Itod being abUhdltot^" 4' viiiiiviA. 251 On MoMifit^furffSf AgrieuUurei and Commerce^ I '* We never hfid an interior trade of any importance* Our exterior commerce has suffered veiy much from the beg^ing^ of the present contest. During this time we have manufactured within our families, the most necessary itfticks of clothing. Those of cotton will bc^ some oomparisQR with the same kinds of manufacture in f^yrofi^i but those of wool* flax, and hemp are very coarse, uiv sightly, and unpleasant: and such is our attachment to agriculture, and such our preference for foreign manufki- turet, that, be it wise or unwise, our people wiU certainly return as soon as th^ can, tp the raising raw mi^terials, and exehan^ng them for fiiier manu&ctures than they are able |9 execute themselves. ' ^' The political economists of Europe have establish^ il as a pHm^ple that every state should endeavour to manu&ctui!^ ioK itself; and this principle, Ujie many others, we ferans&r to America, without calculatii^ the diflbenoe of cippumstaiice which should often produce a di%^t resultiv Injgam^ie^the lands are either cultivated, or lock- ed -lip against the culfivator. Manufacture must theiefoie be resorted lo of necessity, not of choice, to sui^rt the fuifhis of their people. But we have an immensity of jbind courting the industry of thehu9bandman. . Is it best ^w^thiit aU our citieens shoukl be employed in its im- prevement, or that one.hali ^uld be called off from that to exercise^ manilfactures and handicraft arts for the other? THQSa WHO I,Aa0VR IN THX EAXTH AB£ Tif£ CHOSEN rsoy|.i OF Goo, if ever he had a chosen people, whose breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps m 352 TKAYALi IN alive that sacred fite, which othqpvise might escape from the fiice of the earth. Comiption of morals in the mass of cultivators is a phenomenon of which no age nor nation has furnished an example. It is the mark set on those, who, not looking up to heaven^ to their own soil and industry, as does the husbandman, for their subustence, depend for it on t^ casualties and caprice of customers. Dependence begets subservience and venality, suffocates the germ of virtue, and prepares fit tools for the designs of ambition. This, the natural progress an#consequence of the a|ts, has sometimes perhiq>s been retarded 1^ acciden. tal circumstances : , but, generally speaking, the proportion which the aggregate of tho other classes of the citizens bears in any state to that of its husbendmenj is llie pro- portion of its unsound to its. healthy parts, and is a good enough barometer whereby to measure its degree 'of cor- ruption. While we have land to labour then, let us never wish to see our citizens occupied at a work-bench, or twirl- ing a distafil Carpenters, masons, and smiths are wanted in husbandly ; but for the general oper^ons of manufiiCture, let our work-shops remain in Europe. It is better to cany provisions and materials to workmen there, than to bring them to the provi»ons and materials, and with them their maimers and principles, ^he loss by the transporta- tion of commodities afiftiss the Atlantic will be made up in happiness and, permanence of, government* 4 The mobs of great ckies add just so nfiuch to the support of pure government, as so^ea do to the. strength df the human body. It is the manners ^ndsf^t of a people which pre- serve a cepublic in vigour. A^^generapy in these is a canker, wliich soon eats to the h^ of its laws and con- stitution." • le from te mass r nation 1 those, ioil and listence, itomers. iiffocates deagns lequence acciden- ropQrtion eitizens the pro- isagood e -of cor- U8 never ,ertwiii- ivantedin lufiusture, better to !, than to riththem > * NORTH CAROLINA. 35Sr GHAFTER XXXVU. "ji fFarrhitoiht'^Raleighy'^Fayettevil^* Two mSes from where we entered the state of Nortfl* Carolina, weAnsed the Roanoke river by a flat-bottbmed boat The banks where we crossed were stee^ and well wooded ; the soil rich and fertile. The.ltoanoke Is composed of two principil stiieams, the Dan\^and Staunton, which rise in the mountains, and unite in the state of Virginia, about 45 miles above where we crossed it From thence it runs a pretty crooked pasi^ 8age,Kbut nearly south-east, 80 miles, to where it, fells into Albemarle sound, by four diffisrent channels, near the out^"* let of the Chowan river. ^ It b navigable nearly SO mOes for velsds of considerable aze, and for boats of from 90 to40'tons to the falls, 70 miles frt>m its motidi. The land is said to be very rich qp the banks of this river, and itiany w^KiU&y ]^]ant^rs live on it. ^* 'WetpeiVelled 16 miles, partly along the banks of the ri- Yd*, tb Warrent6n, where w^ stopped for the night. The country was fertile a^d well impit>ved ; the weather' clou"^ d^ aiid' rather cbld. Waitertton is a neat litfle town, c6ntain!ng about 300^ inhiibitants; who look wen,'and Ire said to be mc^y Eti- ropeans. The towii stands on a high dry situation; and is said to be healthy. There is a Very respectable academy; at which there are generally 60 or 70 studentA. '* tf^ "^^ ^~. t* V iS54 TJULVBL8 W Thursday, October 9tlu We |cft.WaiveQtao a$, 5 o'clock ^Jn the morning, and travelled 25 miles, through a levels .> sandy country, to i^misburg, an inconsiderable village on* the banka of the Tar river, which we crossed at this place. Tal rivei^ is a cot^siderable streaili, risii^ about 30 miles above where we crossed it, and, running about 150 miles in a sout])*east direction, falls into Pamlicoe sound, v It is navigable about 30 miles to Washington, and from thence for flats to Tarborough, 90 miles froni its outliet From hence we travelled 16 miles, thoi^ountiy sandy, and having a barren aspect, but the road pretty good, to Nuse river, whicli we passed by a feny. Nuse river rises about 40 miles above whies(t||rf cross, ed, and, runqing a south-east course about 8$2Q miks, fiilis also into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable fyt sea-vessels 12 miles above Newbem, for fla^ 50 miles fuitber, and for small boats nearly 200 miles from its oudet « About eightMrniles, through a counti:y a little more fer. tile and better improved, we n»ched Raleigh, and hese we stopped for the night The princ^ produoe m the coun- try through wluch we passed this day,; is cotton. and In- dian com. The weather was ck>udy, with a shower of » ram.-' ? ■: ., -^.*.'. Ha L£ lo H , the seat of government of ^oc^ Capsoliiia^ is aituatedin north latitude 35^ 56'^ a^d is nearly in the ceo- tre of the state, being 160n|iles from the sea^ooaat The plan«of the city is regular, the streets crossing ope another at right angles, and thpre is a large square in the middle for thf^^bUc buildings.V>^« RaMjl^ contained, by the oepsus of laOO, 334 friee per so^s and^ 335 slaves. The state-house cost abo^ei 15,000 dollars.^T]iere are no other public buildings oif impor V; o'clock a kvel, iUageon* 18 place. 30 Buks 50 miles d. . Itis n thence ry twady, good, to ^« cross- iiules,fiil|s 9e«-ve98els itber, wd inofe fa- ijut ooun* onmidln- shower of ^ NOBttt' dA«0tIl9A. 255 feee per ^Cii5,000 tafice, and the greater part of the other* buildings being oT wood, the place exhibits no veiy flattering lippetfanoe. They have a little trade in cotton amd* tobacco. Frida^f 10th. We set out fiom Raleigh at 4 o'clock In the morning* The paasengers had noW all dispersed in diflerent ^irectbni, except the captain and myself. Wie had the itage to ourselves, and yveie as merty^ as ever. But there were few objects exteriorly to excite attention^ or elittit remark. The country was one continued dull locne of aandimd pine bairens. Now and then we pass^ ed A few piles of Wood, collected for the purpose of ma^ king tar^and the streams we crossed generally looked asif^i they had been at tar-making too, b^ng neariy va black as thtt oommodity. The elements indicated a change of wea- ther, and recollecting the higfalandman^ prognosticatkm^ '^iM|f fittr long Jbtdy"* 1 fdt by anticipation a dreaiy tail taviay journey afkr my agreeable friend would leave me, and we had only this day to travel in company. I in this mood' I travelled 25 miles to Biaek river, and eQntintfil^ our course through a similar country, we came to^a^sbn^ place called Avereysborough, soon after which we passed Cape Fear river. # Cd^A^or river is the most considerable stream i\. >iQKlh Cacoiinau It rises about 100 miles above Fayette^ viUe,juid> running a south-east direction, upwards of 200 mUes, £dls.in«o the Atkmtic ocean, at Cape Fear, which gives it ats name. It is about three miles Wide at its out- lel^ andiliiere is 18 feet on the bar at high waler. It b navigable for vessels drawing lO^or 11 feet, to Wilnying^ m ; 'by '■ ^oops 25 miles above Wilmington ; and by boats to Fayett^ille. Having crossed this river, we pro« 356 TBAVBLt III 'i cceded, nearly along iti western bank, 35 miles to Fayette, ville, whicli we reached about 7 o'clock. Here* my agreteble tiavcUing companion, who, .was i veiy respectable merchant in the place, invited me to his house, and showed me every degree of hospitality. As no pasaengers were going on, he urged me to spend a couple of days With him, and as an inducement promised to intro- duoe me to a Soots higfalander, who played delightfully on the bog'pipet. I was, however, urgent to be home, and resisted atll entreaty. But finding that my funds would not hold out till I reached Charleston, I availed myself of his friendship to get a small supfdy, till I could remit from thence, with which having fumi^ied me, together with let- ters of introduction to some of his friends in that city, we parted with mutual good wishes. F(0rtteville contains about 1800 inhabitants, is a place of coiisiderBble trade, and is rising in wealth and impor- tance. The public buildings are handsome i and ^there are a considerable number of mills, distilleries, hriewene^ and tan-yards. The principal produce, carried to A^/^lming- ton. market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, cotton, flaxaeed* and providonr. ' w ^ . , > >n r^lie country round Wibnington is genciaUy sandy, but there are rich lands on the bei^ of the river, and the coun- try is esteemed pret^ healthy. A great many emigrants fix>m Scotland are settled in the neighbourhood. Saturday, 11th. The stage started this moming at 5 ^ckx^; ahd I was the only passenger.. The dOuntry be- came moreand more dismal, and was very thinly inhabited. The day was rainy, damp, and disagreeable; the. creeks I swdled beyond their natural lunits, which made crossing | very ^fEcuIt; and the people looked pale and sickly. Every At om to unl( ingLu the nig Yankee Lum containe place wi the inhi the food bacon ai for drift* Sunda all Sundi in conset we had forward c still more Aat'*we p itleiigfli oneof tb a Very in ftree larg Miepers, pieces, ca fixed bve I^thefi« jtJst them, thefore-w pedthepn the driver VOL. I. ^ ^ - - - VaMr C ABOLINA. • S57 ayette- ,.was i i to his , As no i coupk tointro- ^uUy e home, Is would (lysdf of mitfirom with let- city, we is a place kd impor. md /there xieweriesi Its Every thing conspired to thiv/W me into a gloomy reverie. At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we had to unloote the horses and drag over the stage. On reach- ing Lumberton, S3 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for the night, at the house of a very intelligent and inquisitwe Yankee. Lumberton, he told me, consisted of 33 houses, and contained 164 white people, and 44 blacks. He said the place was healthy; but, judging ^m the countenances of the inhabitants; I would have thought otherwise. As to the food, it did not suit my palate at all. It consisted of bacon and brown bread, both of a very sable colour, and for dridk we had new peach brandy, as hot as pepper. Sunday, 12th. It is customary for the stage to stop all Sunday; but having made a short Journey yesterday, in consecjuence of the badness of the weather and roa^ we had to make up the distance this day; and we set forward on our journey at 9 o'clock. The country became stiD more dismal, and the ereeks were more swelled; so dnt^'we prosecuted oilr journey with great difficulty, and Jit lei^th we met with an accident wluch proved fetal to- one of the horses. We came to a creek, with a bridge in a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber; dtree large logs were stretched across the creek, called sleepers, and these supported a number of mis-shapen pieces, called rafters, thrown on at random, without being fixed by either nails or pins. They had been disturbed by the freshet in the creek, and the driver alighted to ad- jtist them. He then drove on ; but on entering the bridge, the fore-wheels gathti-ed the rafters in a heap, which stqi- ped the progress of the carriage ; and this happened just-as the driver was in the act of whipping up the farei|iorses. VOL. I. 2 K |erii:, by pulling; diit (hie staple of ihb mam stdngletree; the)' Mt bff AiII speed, the swih^etfedft ^ling at their he^f«^ We aHghted, tbbk out the oth^ two Horses, and dragged the stagie ov# odrs^lvesl Whe^/ pMng in the horses, We moved for^vard, and half a mile from the otek i^ fbilnd ohe the fb^-hOi'ses lying htatty dead, tA the side of^ ia tree. It appealed that one was stronger than th^ other, iM had pulled hM of the road hito the wdOss m the sbee; ^ it #a^ S^ilb'^^^ l^. a^^ldie ixm mA a vdy com^e^ s6elk!irig. ' W^ I obsciHTttf the ibre-llrirses plunge, I called oiif to tlie dHver \^tlier We must i#iitf . " O 3^," iixf% % « ^if«m a^ Msti^h thick ahd tMri> I it^^istca thaiT hfe #6u!d it- moi^e lh6 mail td a" higher ^t. He tv^ liot foi^ lOsihg tife: liiiSistedrmightbeall^it^tcii^^ and this being g^ted, I preirailidd <^ Mm to assist nie in iiidVing' tM man ^^ : \i^ch hafihg done/lie da^ thiSli^ tlife cttek. ' SoOn after thl^ Wei passed th^ b6i^'iiBi^ lii)<^ df S6uth dlr^^^ 20 niiies IrOth LiMb^o^,^ Which I j^Iy pjtai^ rirtfflte^ a genera r^vfewi^ l^^jl^ C4Bp|.)irii. ^9 ■m'' ii ■ Sdutii <^'*l^S!liMM»flKji "73^ "iU. *. ^€^ ' .'#k.iii' ^ CHAPTER XXXYia. Abrt^ Carolina Is sitwtfed between north latitude 33'' 47' and 36° 3(y» and 1° c^ and 0° 45' west longituck* Its goeatesjt length, from east to west, i» 473, and its gneateat breadth, finom north to south, 18 198 miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or 32,320,000 acres. Tk^ fiice of the coyntiy is much diversified* To the cast, and south-east, there is a sea'^oast of niearly 300 miles, indented with a great number of bays, the principal !Df which are Afbemarle and Pamticoe sounds, which re-> ceiv« the gmttor part of the rivers* On the outside of these sounds are some of the most remarkable capes la America, Cape Hatteras, and Cape Look-out, and to thr southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below th^ hiead of tide water, about 100 miles into the interidr, is low and sandy, abounding in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of having been at one period overflowed by the sea. The country from the head of the tide waters, to- wards the mountains, is agreeably uneven, and much im- proved in value. Among the mountains it is exactly rimi« lar to the state of Virginia ; but being a few degrees to the south, the value of the country is improved, and the sea- sons in >that district are deligl^tful. The state ^, ixpon the whole, well watered. The ri* vers ^ into the Atlantfc Ocean, and have been alljioticedy . V 260 KORTH CAROLINA. t except some to the southward, which I shall have to cross in my way to Charleston. It is supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable minerals, particularly in the mountainous district. Iron ore is very plenty, and gold has been found in conadera- ble quantities. There are various mineral springs. The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of Virginia. The low port of the state, which is a conside. rable portion of it, is low, sandy, and barren, aboundmg in |»ne trees ; and the swamps, which are very large, pnv duce cedars and bay trees. There are, in this district, good (tracts of .meadow land along the rivers, which are well cultivated) and produce abundantly. From the head cf the tide waters to. the mountains, the soil improve^ and is very various. The mountainous district is very similar to that in Virgiiua. The climate in the low country is subject to great and sudden changes, sfnd is often unhealtl^ in the M. Gene- rally, the winters are mild, but very changeable. The ^dng is early, but. subject to occasional |rost& The Summers are hot and sultry, and the autumns lare serene and beautiful ; but the exhalations from the decaying ve* getable matter in the marshes and swamps are veiy inju- rious to health. In the upper country, the weather is more settled, and, being fipee from swamps, is healthy. Among the mountains, the climate is renuurkably plea- sant :' ■ ■-■;., The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is considerably lost in obscurity. In 1710, it contained about 1^0 fencible men, when the first permanent setde- ment was made, under the direction of the propf btors of South Carolina. In 1728, the proprietors having sold V/' aOWttU CAROUl^A. 261 their right to the crown, it was erected into a royal go- vernment. The inhabitants took an early and decisive port in the war for independence, and the state sufiered veiy severely. In 1774, they appointed three delegates to the first congress,, and adopted a state constitution in 1776. .It now sends two senators and twelve representa- tives to congress. The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties. The population, in 1800, was 478,103, of whom 133,296 were slaves, being upwards of 10 persons to the square, mile^ , The state has made oonriderable improvements in ^i- culturey commerce, and national wealth; but it exhibits a barren pro^ct to the traveller. Tht post road runs through the poorest part of it, and, to use the language of Mr. Jefferson, " the genius of architecture seems to have shed lus maled]<^tions over the land." The buikUngs'are mostly of wood, some of tliem painied, and some not; ind they exhibit a very unughtly appearance. ' Like Vir- ginia, there are no large towns, and them seems to be no occasion for them. Mankind are probably better accom* modated by a great number of small towns than by a few laige cities. Newbem is the chief town. It is situated at the con- fluence of the Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of land, somewhat: resembling Charleston, South Carolina; and it carries on a considerable trade with other places in the state, and the West Indies. The population, in 1800, was 2467, of whom above one half were slaves. WUmington IB the most commercial to\vn in tlie state. It is situated at the junction of the two branches of Cap6 Fear river, 35 miles from the sea, and, being the Jilace abqji^ 17flQ inlj^^t^, Jhf^ >o|iaps ^ n^jpstjy bpilt of wood, 9fvd lif^tfiwfk h^ su£^d ^verdy frpp^ fife at y^, riou9> times. .... Edentoi^y xx^ Alt)©pMr|e Sou»d» j^ joiie of $be ojdest towns in the state, and was formerly the §^ pf ^ |x^al governors. J| is ^voijj^Iy sj^i^tfi4 ftr ^e, but J? low an4 uph^i^y. It copt^ins a^u^ l^p inljibi$ajit^, .mJJ^igh and. F^yf!«^vilJle \m^ J^^ mA^^ Tte others of , n:^ost note are IFa^hington^ Tmr^pugfi^ ao^ n9fe M% 9»|}f J#^; Mmm^pmi mS^c^: |at^|i of these p%cp§ ^s kgia a^ut 3pQ, t^ TiPQi jai^d Jbere ^e^lDipy yi|!^^ co)y^#g frx^ JOQ tjp^Spp. Tifie i|^ Midbiidg^ ^ yet iji J«qi j0JI>qfec^ .^^ aiod much r^Hi^ t9 feg 49pe^9 p^j^e jR^yeljisig .^ORrfofmbl?. M The inhabi^BJ^ ^ f^osjdy J^rroa?^> wd p^U$:e oji thi^ ftnus ey^ ^npc^spy ^ }ife. The pcippipal pimmodities for safe are J^, tui^paitin!e» pitph, jipsin, tioiber, hecis^wax, corn, €Qt^u> and Jpb^GGo. Almcist ey«iy fe^y j^ the country manu&cture their own clothing, so tl\at fh)e Bri- t^ trade to thjs state i^ not great, ^r impprt^ The greater part of it iSjC^ied on thrpu^ j^e fn^dii^n of Charleston^, or the northern sist^ The diiect exports amounted, in 1305, to 779,903 dollars. The state of society is somewhat £^nii|^ |^ Yiiginia. Many of the planters arewi^thy, fjrank, sai^ ho^itable; and G(»iiaiderable efforts have bee^ in^4Qipliqe educa- tion on a respectable footing, A uniyersk^ .j^Abeen founded, and endowed by the state ; an^ there are .several «• */-.'(*^:f'^^ •:*•' ic|p^i£K academies. But thei^^ important bnmeh, ' tl^%hich has for its XJbject the ^«imi/ diffusion of kiiow- Icd^, has bdilft ne|[lected untH of late. In 1808, however;;** aiiliSbt p^s(fd the li^slature tb^e^tablish common school^ throughout the sti^, Whidi, if fiilbii(^6d up, will produce gtjod eflects. * *' Th^ le^slativef authority is vested in a senate and house of commons, together styled tlie Genei^'AssemWy, and (mth WXES^, ^hfltd» liliUit be l^ksessed of acSO" aferts dfMd; fc?>i*fttMiVes ttf ICfclThfe electors' of ^ $^Ktr«r imist be pbii^ssedf of 50 acfies of land ; and of i^fis§i»d\rje^ ^ fi«^9iibld ill sbme toWi/. The (Executive is ve^d M r gttv^Jirttb^, elected bj^ the General Assetably^ i^ lilr i^ il6l c^Ue f b S^tv« 1iibi^ thii ^ifee years in MiU ii Ssdlst^ bjr a ctmMi of istdte, c^ktslsting dTsi^veti I^efabflS, thti^ by the* Asfe^bff SfihualTy: Thfe j^ddlciBlr]!** ^isdj dr t Itipltef^ eqtiJty, ^d% doUf^ rf^dtti(h^« The fiidgles ait %6iited by the Assemblj^^^ ■4^ ■V*^ ,.»-# ■ P?55|^s ■ '«» 'F- ■" ^" 1-'' • "^ '--.-fl^Ji- ■#-'^ « ■ ^4 '^ !FBAV£L8 %t^ ,-i CHAPTER XXXIX. JVilltonf^Georgetowny^Charlesttni. Although we had passed into a different state, we had neither a tfiore beautiful country, nor a better road. Th& one was flat, siwamp3r, and dismal; the other was bad in the extreme. We passed a smatt^ plantation, li mile &om the state line, sAerwhi(^h We had three miles of Sfditaty iroiid/wheh we oimte to altnethodist church, attended by a pr^t^ decent-looking i:ongtegalion. Five mileid from thence is Swimmfaig creeic; but we did ndt^tt^in^ here, though we ha4 t6ivade?L\tm^ way. A mile Mother we reached Littk Pedee, where 'we left the stage, and crossed in a ooioe to Foil's, where ^e stopped for the mght. The day'^was tnoi^ and warm, rather sultry, but on the whole n6t disa- greeable. The country was more imminently wretched thmi any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how^it was inhabited at all, whien there is so much good limd; and so maiiy fine diiniates, in dtiier parts of the United States. Little Pedee river rises about 80 mile^ above where we crdssed it, ruhs a south-east course about ISO miles, and falls intb the Great Pedee. It is a considerable stream, and at this time was swelled by the late rains to a great extent. It is lidt navigable. ^'^^ **^ » * Mdtt^y, October, 13th. On getting up this morning, at daylight, I ibund the driver, a young hd of about 181, was not inclined to go on with the stage, and Mr. Fordv the post- not Tl aereek Nygct It wouk mohthi^' pOKSO, ]»8tnias( w'adifl cijuveoo ^ii4thi tiM the ) ^moiuitabd ^iliouidi 4KKm up ftittmaste abye-patl fMafhqiag Another ( aiBiitance Iha4x)8tnn three doUe iag^sti fnrpoae; I 'ttiem(^it flsta' go «dj(iining f^ the doqrof whiel^ jaMwitliatBlyiopeitfed, and ouiioame such a«n»^>itt<^Ued the tomivritli'ii p^ume somewhat difaent fiaom duit of 4nbi» fidixw I ooiild not bear it, an4 uBged^o be gD|ie|: but ^Ihflhdtaivtiit seemed to be accustomed to tfaesi'^sovt t; liar » few imles aftor ^entisfing thia dokI^ we«ame to L^Fnch'srcitck; aUd hew ^ brieve wiajM^Qi^^gonej^ but the waler was spraad onrer the ftoe •ff^c|h^)«car^' ^ttmty ^three quarters' of a makt- in breadtht f^htf^^MOMHaltousei at die cidier side^ but the view waa ob« Hmeieiir^^^tlie'wiooda, and we had lo iioflow fcfr half an lMHirrbeibi«i#^wei«4 h^rdJ* At M; to use au bial| fMle^v'iitt iheitfii dK^ voioe«4tf oua pla^ing.in die wsAeiv tiM^tkmmM^^mmMt^Miibma^p^^ flat^ on MOB -jMI intK'*wMKKBfWEXOm8^i'-^ ■.ti.ut^t'^-^-' ■,«..? i2M^ Tm^mnM in .^ ^tii9tmitt§ over liiiM^r cRdet ndriwiiiips of ^nfiMraois^ and thwB'iSi hmikywf Aiag etae to oxcke Kwmldii m this Qounlrf , we iwiehed BlMkmiiigo crBdr.it 4t'iC^lcl < Thb aeek liad mnSkd to trgfatt^ cx^^ tent^Jttid pirt of the bndge iros'gone^ so tfant we ooiikl ndt get'OiPb?Ttfae«liige norhoifles. Wegot aoraii inth»the raatt^ wIMi we delivered at the poHt-of&oe, whoe we wa^ inibiinMl that the Oeorgetown mail had not arm«i|iand sr jc wne iet fittt, at length, at a^misendde IMepUne; W^ ^whole rf a dry-godda atcae. Ay, lfaioka^i4to«nif^ aeift^ iHotwithatandmg the eminent wvelchediieiBtef the phMyu^Skmmlers haa found out that 8omediiii|^!ia to be done.haei.w Movxeveti Padd^vn^ nsA behimli hand with himir ^he greater part of the other inhalntants wcaie Irish 1^ tolok i^^my lodgings at the head «oi ^theie w^«e two in^^Git^)iraiid I fouiid my kindlord » civilf obligpg Ut- tleibiel)iian. « < 1 told hiaii my adventuieai in ^he^ta^e inm Lui^nbB8lo% at. wiueb Iwl laughed heai«yiyjohaerykig, ^f By, Jhii'if'-Tf^^'j'iou fftual^^^ toufh time,ofiit^>«iid PU warranttyou; have found ^^v^^ound ol youc atdamchi m^mje^ the old woman will have some^ogita^tpri* sqatlyv and Pll oeeto have a little bit^af beal;.aBd/4lKitt^ it?ii ^t, we'll ha^e plei^^ vegetabliea te^ ind««mie poraloes, the 9eed of wMch I got irora^ iiM Mand ; and intheineilntime, wi^M juat ba««^li^iciRQp&cifxaemetNing tM|i0)(^ peace and good:^i»0itoii^^ like to see a eoun&ymann and although you j»e oat |uala SOUTH' C(MKIU1IA. 26g ■QiB» mm bthe » hoot. » waa tKKinf- id with Irish two p., iiii.i It' t':>«linA ; jmd o MMii'juMW -nathcr, yet you!ve< tlifr flext door ndghbour toU^'Midrilat oomet to tte aunvtfaiiig*" So aaying, he> srtjrf*^ #vg thettteoeMnr3> oidars about the dtnner, nd 'soan iMianwd with the bottle^ attended by the doctor of thr^it^ whom he hitrodiioed to me as a countryman, •* «d oKimiieat a feUow as ever crossed the great sea.** rWMk nsGidly/ague about its bukmess^ and join me and the gen-^ deinmrin the laugh?'* The doctcsr^ smiled^ which was att tfae^length^he cotdd go; howevcri they soon got clear of their 8lial»i and we sat down togedier to dinner. ** Ay, tUs is something like civilizatibn,'* says I, potting my fork imo the sak beef; ^^ Now would you have expected that 1 oould have mustered you up a little bUof stuff Hke tfaatf *f said the iandkircL^ Noiveataway heart%i and make your- sdtf^ hoBie, md here^s some poratoes for you, a^ mmt swett.poeatoes^ andi^iere*A^some bdtiia and turnips; take % # some o' lkai^u^4WBA^mms.can^bnt4, tfHEUpMiiMhcie nviit go6d fiire, thougfa^ve heve^ot iiito« qtnetmotmef-iki^* wopld-lBalringpla8e.^''.'r • • ^^' -•■«•- ■ The oibkMift%iiidnc» and good lamiaiirdl^^:dib«^ abk IfkhnMn^ beguiledythe tbne» alid reco n c i k d t»e n> a dctentkift of two^s at thi^ place, wbich would othor. wiatkafietbeeiialinoitiiitideiabkei for there watBolain|igk ^extemal cib|ect fagratify the lenses, the glorious efblgaMK tti^a braght aun exeepttd^ I The nveatbea waa ekar and 4)eaut^; , .' W«dMada5r,aSli£ ilhftCksoiige^oivii. stage anrivedj^ te other niMl filoi|i ^ inorthward,^ so -^we gol idie¥«d| fifcuft our eanfinemcnl «t-S okdoek ; and, luddhig Jifieii to 'ibeiBgteaabloiiaahniiiB and< his fiunilf, nvft. set out ..In tht 1 i ThWht coiintif conUmied^ lua^beftBife, iat ?iH|d*«andf^v aijc D^lta, 1 tot Black . liverf . ivhieli* ive paaaed 1^ t imiodfo %ridgtt. ^f'lmisf faiidge^ hadr teen; tscotovfivhich: ivaa tho the stage, and^* though wnowie* ifc was s^ ill a very shattered^ataiet ^Aick iliwer ripea near Caaadenfiflndy'TUBnlngt a aoutb^iiat^eoiinei ii&r intei the IMat Bsdeei^ a Ittle above ©Mgeiown. Phe i^oad wae^ ki vtTf bad ordir, 'aiidF' we "passed manf of thcfim v^lbr dis ^^Ib^iHy ia hetiMalergBcted #i^ eieek^ in «tt difectionii l^ll& Mehed Ckoif^ihif i^ n^lee iroiA/M^iteon^^ atO ^H^dki^ in' thtf:tvittAig.'>^'**i .^-i^^jri M!i^i^=|«'fi:vi"i*;7>:^#^-^i^<^' ^iiieinrii wj» agii^eiEii^ iMIiti ivho had been«N90Mddef«i>le*tii^ Ii6y)te with rne^ln ©li^fow; - We ii^iirk tnul imkbitti Biaclt>iw< flOOOinhi fnar^'^iexci pivdeidaii kandlfkb honaeaan Thejiriftt cfUBcopidi we npiflii^ . '"^99ie'4uti wnuM ai Thtirsda ■pi tnikiiu tfbut ^n SwtOKv V j Anigk*^ ate ^'tMuidsjti »iiiindlf aiid are but indifeont The tiriftd|»l pdhMo^bttikiMga ws i €0^ V^fttk cpjacopiili ofamth^ « pnabylftfial^ ehnfeh, one ibr bnptiali, one he tMMk^ wd A flmiiiahing acadenly. ^ ^ oS^eiottuatioa ia'iinfaeakhy in the idl, but' the wintere w nttM and pltaaMit Thursday, 16th, we left Georgetown at 3 o^ck)ck»li # tnikniinf^ ind Uavctted through a kvel,'> sandy |k^» ihout |sS ikiUea^ w9i^ #e ipasixd the Aohh brmeh o£ the 8aBieR> vfrnni ifaenoe tfaet« b^a vwy ^nmddy^^awaniti, AngkiiiuGhtthire ia'H oaliseway*' Bikivoa(uen«y8lici« ill ;iCitir^F-/i^KflaBQnt^<#thn'vwfaat ' Jthioy ; lipe JndfiritMtii >i -i n and pMie (treo^ "Snt da was'tteUg^Hfid. ^tpeiieaehed € ha i ks| li t -'»at-6| f4aN)lo6k^ki'«he^dveiling;■= »«i ingly impatient to be gone^ I accohiingly Itook my pas- sage by the mail stage, and, as it wad to start at ditiap o'clock in the morning, I wetit to sleep in the stage-house. I was seized with a alight fever during the ni^t, and when the departure of the stage was announced, I found it Wiis out of my power to proceed. I got very anxious, and sent for a doctor, who piescribed some medicine, and I believe gave me a very improper dose, to which, princi- pally,. I attribute a severe stomach cotnplnint with ^vhich I l¥as afterwards afflicted., -fDc fv' ;,.;'■■><•! ;.i:mi,/ '40'' ra;!©?!'^ 276 TBAITBLS Ilr>* In this ^Hnaddii Iwas greatly assisted b^r a young Irish- man, who came to lodge at the same house. H6 examin- ed into my situation, told me he had beeh Served in the same way at New Orleans, and prescribed somb niedicine to countertict the effect of the other, which was successful, and in all probfdsility saved my life; During my confinement there was a remarkable change of weather ; the thermometer fell suddenly fit)m 75*^ to 48^ I was told that such changes were f ery common ||iere, in the spring and fall. ' Charlestok is elegantly situated on a point of land at the confluence of CoGper' and Ashley dvers, which form the harbour, one ^ the most convenient in the United States; The ground on which the city is built is low, but it is opAi to the sea breeze, and is, Up6n the Whole, one of the most i^igible situations ih the tow coiihtiy. The plan of the dty is regular, th^ s^ets crcfssing each other at^ light angles; biit many of them are too niartow. The houses are partly built of Iwlck, aind^partly^ df wood; and many of them are etegant. They arb about 5000 in number, and the eity con^s about 24,0Ck) inhabitants, of ^^idiom nearly one half are slaves. The public buildmgs ace la court-house, eiidkange, college, armoury, three banks, 18 ^aoes of public worship, alms-house, orphans-house, bid ■' The markets are kept in pretty good order, but pro- visions are dear^ and are not so good as in the ncMthem cities. 'There are few manufactures at Charleston; but there is a very active commerce, particularly in the winter season ; and vast quantities of shipping are constantly ar- riving and departing, which keeps the city very lively. Tl^ principalf foreign trade is to Europe and 1^ West Indies; of Which Britsdn occupies a large share, and a ■•^ South cAnoLmAi 2tti •IHsh- xamin- in the [edicine cessful, ''to48^ |iefe, in of land iehform rUtuted 1 is low, e whole, country, ing each ► riartow. bf wood; 5000 in itants, of >uil^gs » banks, is-house, butpro- northem iton, but le winter itly ar: Uvely. West anda cbiiSdeliible "portiQii is apprbpriated ' t6 Glasgow^ '^ The^ grdat artidies for cicport' are cotton and rice, particularif^ the ibmver; and the ^ imports consist of East and West India goods j groceries, and British msihtifiicttjres. Beades* this; there is a very iextenstve trade to^the northern states, in which' many regular packets are employed. The^ citizens are esteemed hospitable aid poUte, of which' I found many instances. They are mostly aU dretKed in British manu&ctures, so that ibt cukivatkni of this trade is an object of considerable importance to that country.' A more than ordinaiy prc^xirtion of the population of Charleston is blacks, occassioned by the circumstance of its being the only port in the United iStiites in which they can be imported ; but it is supposed this branch will not long continue. — From the light of reason, of ^philosc^hy^^ and of religioh that is eve^ where shiiHing around u^^ may «e not hope, that t|ie time will soon anriye whenman di^ qo more deal deceitfully with his feUow, but justice, and righteousness^ and niieny> will extend over all the earth? " /-■ • ^ ■ »i .^■:.ft ^ '.'«ri5^, .-:;^*i^tjitfi^'^?'rt; J.;-y:u^ri;::t:ri ir^n '':;:'*u'>- J "' . V^^ ; .-: It^h /# "snB 6QI7TH Ci^OLINA> '^ CHAPTER XLt South Carolina. m. ■ . ,■:> ■ - ■• ■■ • 1*HIS state is tttuatted between ndrth latitude 32^6' and 35**, aiid west Ibngitude 1^: 30' and 6° 25'. Its extreme length from east! to west is 236, and; breadth from north to knith 210 nulesj and it i^ computed to contain an area of 33,880 square mile^ being 21,683,200 acres. Sduth Carolina has a sea coast on the Atlantic, extend- ii^ neai^l^ 200 miles, to which all its rivers flow. The io^Iie'ofihe^oastli from north-east to south-iirest ; and ibearlyparallelwitfi this,at about 120 mikd from the coast, ^ first high lahd commences. The whole of th^lnter- Ihe^te ^pa(j6 is n^Iy a cohdni^ teVd^ the' aiig;]e' of a^ent being sb trifling, that the rise at the extremity pro- bably does not exceed 15 or 20 feet. From the com- ftiencement of the high lands the &ce of the country is Variegated, and agreeably uneven, swdling sometimes into considerable hills; and this continues to the' north-west extremity of the state, where it is bounded by the moun- tains. The state is remarkably well watered: The Savannah river forms the boundary line between it and Georgia, through its whole course. This, and some of the other rivers,' have been noticed ; beides which there are— ^ ' Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form a junctibn at Charleston. Cooper river rises about 50 miles N.N.W. SOUTP OABOUKA. 279 of Charlestoii« not fear from the Santee river. It b a mile wide, nine miles above Charleston, and is navigable taits source, from whence there is a canal to the Santee. Ashley river rises to the north-west of Charleston, and derives its principal importanGe.fi:x>m the oircumistance of its forming part of the harbour of that ci^. Eduti) river rises near the extremity of the low country^ and runs a south-east course, including its windings, of 150 miles, whenit enters into the Atlantic, by two princi- pal channels, called north and south Edbto; The space between them forms the Edisto Island. Cam^oA^^ river rises near Edgefield court-house, and running a south-east direction, upwardst>f 160 miles, Ms inta St. Helena Sound. ^ Coosaw river rises^,in Orangeburg (Bstrict^ anc|, running asQuth-east course, throu^ Black swamp, fi^s mto Broad river^ which last is an arm of the sea, in son^e places Tor S;4niles broad, and fopms, at Beaufort, one of the finest harbours in the United States. Beaufort and St. Helena Islands are formed by the confluence of these rivers and inlets ;. and there is a spacious entrance by Port Bepfibl^ eqri, formerly termed Port Royal. The principal mineral is iron, which, indeed, is found in great plenty in al| the states ; and gold, silver^ and copper ores have also been found here. Marble has been found in some few places, and also black lead. There are several valuable mineral springs in the state. The whole of the low country* presents an even regular soil^ formed by a blackish sand, and pretty deep in those places where there are no stones. S^ven tenths of it is covered with pines of one species, which, as the soil is drier and lighter, grow loftier and not so branchy. In flome plaoes th^y\are interspersed witli qiri(^. The pine barrens lure crossed by little swamps, in t(ie inidst of which |;eneraUy flow& a rivulet, and they have different degrees of fertility, indicated by the trees that grow on them. |nthe upper country, the n^^tfertije lands are situated upon the borders of the rivers and creeks ; the lauds that occupy the intermediate spaces are much less fertile. The latter arc UOt much cultivated; and Hl^oa/t who occupy ^them. are obliged. to be perpetually clearing them to pbtain more abundant haryeiits. The forests are chiefly composed of oaks, hickory, maples, and poplars, Chesnut-trees do not begin, to appear for 60 miles on this side of the mpun- teins*. • • , . .; -■; ,., , _ ..*. ■, The cUma$e#in the low^ country is materially differed from that in the upper countiy, the former being much less congenial to health than th&.]atter. The summers are exceedingly hot and sultry, and the heat abates but little, except in the evenings and mornings, till past the^^middle c^ October. From the first of July to diat period, the country is in. many places subject to much sickness^ par- dculaply bilious fevers, agues, ^c. The fall weather is generally beauttful^ and continues till past Christmas; the ava*age teae^perature is greater than an English summer. The winters are generally mild, and there is very little frost, but the weather is sometimes subject to great and sudden changes. The spring commences about the mid- dle of Februaxy, and they have often green peas in the market by die middle of March ; but the weather intermits very much till about the first of May, when it gets steadily warm, and continues increasing with the seasor« till Sep. tember^ when it be^s to abate*|^f ^^most every person - * Michaux. t Ibid. SOUTR CAKOLIKA. Ml who can afford it, removes to a more healthy situatton dur* ing this period, and a vast number goto the northern states in summer, and return in the fdXbf The period of going north, is mostly £rom tl^ middle of May to the middle of July, and of returning, from the middle of October to the middle of November. The anxiety that prevails during that period is extreme ; and when it is over, the inhabitants congratulate one another with the full prospect of 10 or 11 months being added to their existence. In the upper oountry the summers are much more temperate, and being removed from the swamps, there is no sickness. Towards the mountains the climate is delightful. In 1662, Charles II. granted to lord Clarendon^ and odiers, a tract of land extending fh)m north latitude 29° to 36^ 3lVand from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, which they called Carolina. , The first permanent settlement was made at Charleston, under their direction, in 1669. The cultivation of rice was introduced in 1690; and of cottcm in 1702. In 1728,, the country was divided ii^to North and South Carolina, when there vfere 14,000 whites, and 20,000 negroes and Lidians. Indigo was cultivated in 1745. South Carolina took an early and decided part in the struggle for independence, and sent delegates to the first congress. In 1790, she adopted the present state con* stituticm; and now s€;nds two senators and eight represen- tatives to congress. .<, The state is divided in 26 judiciary districts; and some of these are subdivided into parishes. The population, in 1800, was 199,440 fi:ee persons, and 146,151 slaves,, in all 345,591, being about 10 to die square mile. The state advances in improvements and population; but the increase of both being principally in the upper* VOL. I, 2n 292 TBAVBLS IM cQuntiy, are not seen by strangers. Except Charleston, there are no towqs of material consequence. C0I.UM3I A, on the C^pgeree river, 120 miles from Char, leston, is the seat of government, and is a place of consider, able trade. ** The number of its houses^does not exe^d 200 ; they are almost all built of wood, and painted grey and yel- low; and, although there are very few of them more than two stories high, ;they have a very respectable appearance. The inhabitants of , the upper country, who do not approve of sending their provisions to Charleston, stop at Coliunbia, where they dispose of them at several rc^ctable shops established in'the town.'' The above account is given by Michaux, who travelled through this place in 1803; and a continuation of the ex- tract presents a picture of the country between Columbia and Charleston. - ^ ** Columbia is about 120 miles from Charleston. For the whde of this space, particularly from Orangeburg, composed of 20 houses, the road crosses an even country, sandy and dry during tfie summer ; whilst in the autumn and winter, it is su cov^ed wiik water in several places, lor the space of eight or ten .miles> that the horses are up to thdr middles. Every two or three miles we met^th a miserable logThouse upon the road, surrounded with lit-; de fields of Indian com, the slender stalks of which are very seldom more than five or six feet high, and which, from the second harvest, do nc^ yield more than four or fiv9 bushels an acre. In the mean time, notwithstanding their sterility, this land is sold at tlie rate of two dollars per acre." Beaufirt contains about 1000 inhabitants; and there are several smalkr towns containing firom 100 to 500. SOOtn CAROUNA. 5288 Aft there is a material ditference in the soil and dimate of die upper and k>wer country, so is there in the produce. The produce in the low ooiintry is mosdj|kottoh and rice, with articles necessary for the subsistence of the negroes, particularly Indian com. The sea islands, and low lands along the coast, produce cotton of the long staple. In the interior it is principally of the short staple. . Rice plan^^ tations are established in the great swamps, and the har- vests are abundant. Throughout the whole of this district the agricultural labours are performed by negro slaves. In the upper country the produce is more diversified. They raise no rice, but they produce cotton' oi the short staple in very considerable quantities, and, besides Indian com, they raise wheat, rye, oats, and barley. A great pert of the agricultural labour here b performed by the white peo'> pie; said so great is the difference, in this respect, fix>m the k>w countiy, that we may reckon there are two white per- sons to one black, whereas in the other there are two Uaoks to one white person* ^^ • The manviactures of this state ane mostly of the domes- tic kind, for family use, and this kind of industry is in* creasing; but such is the quantity of produce suitable for foreign Jnarkets, that the state canries on a very active fo- reign commerce^ of which a great proportion is to Britain. The articles exported are chiefly cotton, rice, and tobacco. The imports consist of British manufactures, wines, and ^roce^ies. The exports, in 1805, amoui^sd to 9,060,625 dollars, of which 5,957,646 doUars was domestic produce ; and pifobably three millions more are exported through the Medium of the northern ports. The operation of filaveiy to so great an extent produces, of course, the same effects here as in other places; hut •9^ gM TEAVSL8 IN the people have considerably improved in education and morals since the revolution. It was customary for a long period, for the ipiore wealthy planters to send their sons to £^urope for education; and even now they fiequently send them to the northern states; but the practice is gradually declining, and the desire has become general to have re. spectable seminaries in the state. A college has been founded, and very respectably endowed, at Columbia; and there are several other colleges and academies through- out the state. The towns are pretty well supplied with ppmniOQ schools, but they are defective in the country;, and this branch of education, being the basis of the morality of the state, deserves the early attention of the le^siatuie. , The civil government is, like that of the othei states, legislative, executive, and judiciary. The lefriitlative power is vested i];i a general assembly, consisting of a se- i^e and, house of representatives. The senators are cho- sen for four yeara, and one half vacate theu- seats every two y^ffs. They must be thirty .five years of age, and possessed of a freehold *estate of the vaiue of^300 pounds sterling, clear of debt; a|id the electors must be possessed of 50 acres of land^ Qr a tbwn lot, or, have paid a tax of three shillings sterling. The representatives must be: twenty-one years of age, and be possessed of a.fitJchoW estate of 150 pounds, clear of debt;; and the electora must havje the same qualifications as fpr senatora. The executive government isvested in a governor, cho- sen for twoyears, by the legislature; and the qualifications to fill that office are, that he be thi|ty years of age, and be I^sspd of 1500 pounds sterling. .^ ,,,,,,. 3>v^,^.^ .^^ .'*; Th^ judges pf the siyierior courts, comimssioners^oflhe tr^ury, secretaiy of state, and surveyor-general, are all elected by the legislature. \ : GtOBOU» V3 CHAPTER XLH. , •-, » ■-• A Charleston^'^^Socvarmah river ^-^^ Savannah. ti Saturday, October 25th. Having been eight days ilk Gharieston, without httiring from Savannah, I got much alarmed for my friend, and reserved to depart forthwith, notwithstanding I was in a Very poor state of health. I accordingly engaged a passage in the Delight, captain Cooper, and went on board in the afternoon. We set sail at 5 o'clock. It was a fine clear evening, but I was sick; and could not enjoy the breeze nor the scenery. The wind was fiivourable, and before midnight we Were in sight of Tybee hght-house. I went to bed^ butBlept little; and when I arose in the morning, I found we were sailing up Savannah river' with a £dr wind, which continued till we reached the city. ' As we Were drawing towards the whar^ a gentleman' of my acquaintance passed lis in a boat ; and sb great was my anxiety, that I could hardly put the gene- ral* question, *' How are you all in Savannah ?" The an- sweir was such as I dreaded: ** Your friend is not very, well." I was dreadfully a^tated, and could hardly pro- nounce the sentence, " He's not dangerously ill, I hope." **. He's pretty bad,'^ was the reply. It went to my heart. The power of vision and of hearing forsook me; my limbs tottered under me; I lost all sense of recoIlectiQn> and, in diis state, was conveyed to the wharf. But I sooi^ recovered frx>m xx^y reverie. The powers ofmyn^nd nd- aii TBAtELS IX lied their force, and the passion of grief took the place or lethargy. I was almost choaked with 'th6 violence of my passion, and could hardly support myself to the top of the bluff, when I was accosted by a friend, who tokl me my presence was very much wanted in Savannah. This gave my mind a fresh duYction. I armed myself with resolution. .»» ** That column of true majesty in man ; and determining to brave all difficulty and all danger, I made the best d my way to the house. I found my fitiend in the agonies of death. I spoke to him, but he understood me not. I looked in his &ce, but oh ! how altered. His eyes were sunk in hn head, and his coldur was quite yel- low. I seized his hand, and it was quite emaciated. The iiand of death pressed heavy upon him, and all I could now hope for, was to mak^ myself understood in takmg a sor- rbWfUl farewd. I mentionied my liame, on which he rais- ed hb eyes ; he looked wistfully in niy face ; he pressed thy hand with fervor, sayihg faititly , « Is it you ?" arid fell back ihhis bed, and soon after expbed! * Thus I lost an esteemed friend, dnd 1$^ business lost the services of a valuable ybung man, on wh6m I had placed great reliance. His conduct, durii% the whole of odr short connexion, "w^ i^ch as to give me every satisfkcdonc and to secure my utmost confidenc^e. His loss was painiul as a friend— -as an assistant, irretrievable. -In the mtan time the whole of the business devolved upcm me, and siich was the mass <^ matter tiiiritkgli which I had to labour, that I hardly ever enjoyed an hour of recre- ation or repose for the space of two months ; and my health was re-established very slowly. u GBOIQIiu S87 In other respects, matters were favourable. By dint of vigorous exertions I got the.wliole of my business airang- ed to my wish, ind my accounts from Britain, both of a public and private nature, were flattering.^ The non-intercourse act was suspended, in consequence of which, a qua itity of our goods, that were seized under its operation, were given up free of expence. Mr. Fox was dead, but his friends remained in the ca- binet ; and every thing seemed to promise a continuance of a good understanding between the two countries, on which my whole fortune and future prospects depended. My feelings were highly gratified by an act of the Ame- rican government, abolishing for ever the slave trade ; and it appeared that a similar measure would be adq>ted in Bri* tain- > . ~ I found the inhabitants of Savannah hospitable and firiend- ly ; and was much pleased with the attentioa of those of tbem> with whom I had occasion to associate. . Under all these circumstances, it became a question whether I would form a new connexion, to supply the place of my friend, and go on with t^ business, or whether I would wind it up. After much deliberation, it was deter- mined to carry it on. A new connexion was fiormed, and I prosecuted the various arrangements connected with it with all the vigour in my power. Having all these completed, I prepared to leave the' United States for Europe ; but, before I embark, I shall td(e a general review of the state of Georgia. V .1 . ,.. . ■- St 28b QBOBGI^; V^- 4V':W^:. CHAPTER XUn^ #Wii^^ Georgia ^^^ Is situated between north latitude 30° 30i and 35% and west longitude 3° 50' and 9" 5'. Its exiremr, length, from north to south, is 305 miles ; and its extreme breadth 259* Its area is about 60,000 square miles, or 38,400,000 acres. ^ This state, like the Carolinas^ is naturally divided into two districts, the upper and the lowef ; of which tl)te boun- daiy is remarkably well defined. Augusta is on this Mne, on the Savannah river, irom whence it passes to the west- ward by Louisville, and, at theextremity of the state, pass- es the Flint river about the latitude of 32°. The respective poitions are so much assimilated to South Carolina, that it is unnecessary to describe them here. The state has a sea coast of 100 mil^, whicl^is indented with bays and. inlets^ and studded with islands, well known by the name of &a Islands* In the southern part, there is a portion of Eoke&noke swamp, one of the most remarkable in the world. To the north-west are the Alleg^y mountains, vrMch terminate in i^ii;}^ state. ^ The state is i«aiarkably well su^iod with rivers and small streams. The Savannah river has, been dready de« tsicrlbed. The Ogeeahe river rises a litde above Greens- burgh^ 200 miles from Savannah, and, pursuing a r south- east couirse, &]ls into the Atlantic, 25 miles south of Sa- vannah. The )rhichtl tains, al sotlth-so thence c of tribut imilgee, ^n east<» IM«rt,t frilihe'^ (talachyjr-^ itximsit^ hofthward western >b( mSes ttpi^ «»»^ly,al iterklai^ jiisuiii6#t} t8fliathr% feetdeepij ^th a i«Me$ rannifiig,^b C8st upon VOL. r. 289 f^K. % and i, from th259. ) acres, ad into sboun- U9line» fi west- .e,pa8s- ipective I, that it asea Inlets^ of of in the itedns, and rreens- »sauth- of Sa. The AUartmha* iis composed of a number of brancjiieil, 6f irhich the largtst is' the Oconee* It rises near the motin- tains, about 300 miles from Savannah, and, running a sotlth-southrca6t course, is joined by the jippaiacht/, tod thence oontsEfuts its 6oui^, augmented by a greiat number of tributary streams^, till it $>rms a junction with the Oak^ Bfiulgee, lOQ miks -from the>^i!Qean. From thence it runs ^n east-south-east course, and' falls into the Atlantic bekfW |M«n, toi #hich his havtgaBle for large vessels. ^ i «" fr>Tjhe' 0«A;»wiitf^rfe 1 list a large river rising near flie S^i (ta]achy,'4TimirWheof^fh6 CSifofa/^rAj^ h a rtty \at^ rivcP, and fbnhs the iieatern-bQiindftiiy5?of Georgif^ Mm i^er Florida line, 125 liiiies tip tile coiirttiy; It risesc^^tthe fbot of the' moutt* lAti^ il^'thf hea4 of iBavfinnab rite^i aiid jrutis soiith-w^t. iterdly, ab«*fie SOOfifwies, t6 wli^ itforins the state lind Fldm th«n(ice^it p^i^ues a c6u«lr a little east of sbitth, to Hbriaa,>Hte«;it C^ms a junction ^With Flint rivei^, aind fllnuni6# the name of Apalachicola. ' From thence It ruhs » 8duthr% east cotinse, 80 milesj to the gulph of Mexico, iiMclfr!b «iii^ by sfeveral mouths; * • "" "^■ 4*#(&f^ f## l^^i iwb' aenftton aid teur^^tfjirekiAati^ «^^ ^ll^mte k divided l^o iS^ coifiitei| lid^^l^ tfe j&^dfy distrial. The jijpMdj^^l^^htf^i nMy^- ^^02;if87'«be person«;'ifrd S^mWxm, IB^tJfe'sqn&reinife;'^*^^'*^ -^ - ■ ' ^ '■ ■■■'-^'^ t^^ ^■' «•« ^ TKife M' \M ie# Ww^ in GediPp/ Siv^hlh^and llij^iist^ have been noticed. ^Tlie odieri iflNiloiif^^^ s^^ ^iedforitiic waters. ^^^'-^ ^-^ f^ fiesidls Skviani^sdi'ind Angust^^ there k^ dh the ^an^ tfili l^e^, a litde tov^eailed JV^^^#ti%^ %id irr ti^ ihte^ Mori between t)i(^ Savahri^*^^ OgMhe,'li /IP^IjAdi^^ Bodi these are thiitiftg places;*" *^**^ ' #^Oa tfiS Oreat Ogeed^, thinie in^;*bife8ilfc#t.d^»^ I^J^^d Otemimri^, ^ w > party JV Athenif QttS soutJieq Thi? I l9r to th Agre fif^^blishJ of the n^ looUngat ^jexamp miles,, on]} (Muet^ the »drtWi I school. ^ndthoae^ inow than QM»ibei fq the case, a - Befive ta ^ best pla to appropris CWO|MIik« ^n ige. upper ch. — ■>, * tkution t^CftA* L '''mm, Si Aivan^ ^VJ ^ (THle, .-.a ■■ ■■.^. 'it:^ . Oaiiie :AU»in«ha imd its.wgtera, Dorien^ a jkw seiM porty MlJ;L^BCr^yiLL£» tjiif new seat of government, and Athenit the seat of a college. vQp 3lU ]^laiy'& i^yer is the town of St. Marjf^^ at the southemCYtneooi^ of the state,, Th^ agriculture.^d produce of tlie 9tat^ are nearly simi-^ lar IP those of §9Uth Carolii^. ^^^^ ^^^^, i A great degree of attention has been paid> ip Geoi|;iai tx>.€d4i.QatiQP,^, ^nd^tsty, cQns^ have been^^p- ]ffopriat^.to.th(^ j|^ppp^t of it. The college at Athene is amply endi^wed, and ppovis^ ia made for establishing ^id ke^piiigDp an academy in every coun^ in the state. In 1^1^ ^towna^, there are very good commoii achools; Imt tl^ atate ia yet defective as to the establishment of these .most juseful se|ninaries throughout the country. Xt fiiauld be»mentioned» how£iver, that in^this, and all the southern sts^s, the population ia too tliin to admit of the egtabJishflficnt of school upon the plan of the townships of the nprlhern states, or die parishes in ,Scodand. By looking at the censa9| it wiU be seen^ that, in this state, fbfvex^mpl^ a townslup of spc nuks square, or 36 square miles, only contains about 112 persons;, from which if we d^UjClthe pcqxiftion of black people,, it leaves only 75; vAf t}^ iwimbeK wpuld not be sufi^cient to support, a schod. On the other hand, there b much waste land^ i|Dd those di^tricta that are settled up, often contain much move thi^< t^ proportion % sometime^, indeed, a sufficient QUBibei^ foR Ithe purpose mentioned. Whenever that is the case, a school should be established. Before taking leav^, of thja subject,, I may nodce,.that the best plan of establiishing counti^ schools, probably» is to appropriate a public fund equal to one-half oi what may s^ ■*r* d92 amomwAi i-* • » be conmlefed a reasonable salary to ^'teabherv^and let him depend on. his class foriilie other half^ This appears to be ft happy medium between the plaii ^ allowing the teacher to depend' wholly on his class, and that of provide ing a public fund for the whole of tl^ sakfy*' >In the one case, the teacher is not^ sufficiently independent ; ki the other, education, by being made too ohaapy is not suft- ciently prized. In the way pointed out, the independence of the teacher is in pott seeuredj and the dependence on.^ contmgency for the remaindier has a tendency to stinnilate both teacher and pupils to exertioit. < < In all cases, provision should be made, that the children of the poor miay be taught gratis. Good education' is a 'bles^ng of inestimable value to a community, aiid should be within the reach^of everjr member^ vThe constitution declares, that '* arts smd scietices shall be piromoted, in one or more seminaiies of learning; and the le^lature shall give such further donations and privi^ leges to those 'already established, as may be necessary to fiecuxe the objects of their institution.'^ ^1 On the subject of religion, it is declaitd, that ^^^tto per- son withm die state shall, upon any pretence, be deprived q|^ inestimable privilege of worshipping God in a man- ner^lgieeable to his own conscience, nor be compelled to attend any place of worship, contrary to his ovm &ith and judgment ; nor shall he ever be obliged to pay tythes, taxes, or any other rates, for the building or repairk^ any place t>f worship) or for the maintenance of any minister or mi- mstry, contrary to what he believes to be right, or hath engaged to do. No religious society shall ever be estab- lished in this state in preference to any odief; nor shall anyop . Thi ing»of and.a>j Ihe persom ^vote. % latBie. The * %i '• \'"J OBOHGIAtt S99 nd^let ppesur^ ng the irovid- the one m the it wSh sndcnce tiimdate »■• .'» children ^onf isa d should any^ perscnt be deaiedi the enJQ3Piiient«.of any dwil rights joecelfeoB apcoimt of ieligkius.■•■: deprived V.---: • -' n a man- i ■ .'■ . ■ . ipblledto ''" ■ , ■ ',' ■ V .,■ . ... '!,' ..■ . . faith and li* ! yy- •'; ■ ' ' ,■ • i- * ;, or hath .... ;. :. becstab- ,.„.., ' . ' ' ■■ ■ nor shall 1 •§^^V If.,. T'li-if ■ .,,-r? ¥ / ■ ■>m ->» 904 T94Yf U 9N ^* CHAPTER XUV. m-^ Savannahy-^ Ships 6f wary — Lwerpool, Sunday, 12th ApnU I8O7. The period for my leaving SavannalY being arrived, I engaged a passage by die Eliza, Capt. Starks, and dus racnming went on board at Five Fathom Hole, at nine o'clock. The other passengora were^ two gentlemen, natives of Scotland, settled ^ merdmts in Savannah ; one gendeman,. a native of Scotland, iwhq had been Resident in Savannah, and was proceeding to Liver, pool to setUci there ; an English gentleman, settled as a merchant in the upper country ; and a young gentleman from South Carolina, who was going^^over to get his.ed^ca- tion in England. * ^ ^. V Every thing being prepared^- the ship weighed/ and pro* ceeded down the river with a fair but light breeze; but oa reaching Four Mile Point, afew miles below, the wind veer* ed about to the south-east, and we were obliged tQcome to anchor, where we lay the remaining part of the day, and all next night, tortpred by musquetoes. i^ Monday, 13th.,, The wind having come round to the north-west, and blowing a fine breeze, we. weighed anchor at 10 o'clock, and glided dpwn the river very swifdy. At half past eleven we were up with the light-house, and at ,twelve we passed the bar, and discharged the pilot., We had now a delightful breeze.; and the Eliza, being one of the fastest sailing ships in America, and well trim- med, dn Capt. S( his own made lee remarka the ban) of north. ward, bu Wind, w( '^thi Oil gcttii «« lidrie Gtiimiig al and said f ptpietes\i teit^naiit, «id that t ctefcioy. \ *ifniifted' "Wn* tJte'' V rcadung" cfim^iniein rtqtw^s^edt biwuit. 1; aitidiss and turn of his THE ATtAlM'tC OCBAS. ^^ . 4 avmg Eiiza, t Five iwere^ uitsin tiQhad Liver- ;d a3a itlemaii *!i- id pro* butoa veer-. >nieto ly, and to the [suichor ly. At and at being U trim- med, darted through the ivater with great rapidSf . And Capt. StarkS) the commander, did her every justice ; to use his own phrase, he did crack on the muslin. We seldom made less than 150 miles a day, and one day we had the remarkable run 6( 253 ihiles. iii teh days we were p^ the banks of Newfoundland, after which we had & seriei of north-eftst windt^^^ which kept tis tob much to the south- ivard, but, as the Eliza sailed remarkably well upon tho Wind, Wft Still ndde pustty good pro^ssl ' ' ' ' (Dtt the 27th of April, we discovereld a Vesaet td wind* ward b^ihg right d6\(ifi tkpbh us, M^bt French 'ddour^i dU getting sufficieritiy Dear, she fiiied^a g^n ahedd, dhd we k(3rie to, ndt a Kttle apprehensive 'ttJT the resttlt. Ott ecmiing idongsideyih^ ca^in hailed il^ybrokeh English, and SEud he would send a boat abdiEttid'j&dcr/ i^iearcke inJtt pupief^s. -AboBit v^ atfcordihgij^ di^^hfed,'ahd the Ikiutdfiacnt/a you^^ ^6otsmah, juihpi% abdard, told lis tli^f the^sel was the I^fer sloop cifMtai*, capt. Auguzies;, and that they uted the French flag and ftngilage for' A Atcoy. \V^a^ ^ idgnsi fhwn the vcistei ; sb ss^liigj he jump^ into ^ boat: Oti read&ig the ship, he rigidft i^tiirned^^idi^thi^'^^^ c6tn^iments, who, baving his kidy aiidWd'chiidr^ k^bslr^ lequt^sted that we woiflifl^l them sottiii^'sWefet floiir and Wscuit We itoicdisrf^ ttt up ah iassortment of Aes^ airticiies and sttine others/ \^ich the captain sent iviffn^ i^- tum of his conipKrnents ; ahd, redeiVing the iiigniH, We niife sail, and ptticd with ^fititual g(M tHMic*. ' ' ■'If ■;.j!.'7bf'; ii:wN~J> .■ .'♦-■■:- »" » ^^ .^i^» 296 x9 Yf^^ttklfWLi dN V -'^ The noHheriy ndnds stiU continued, and the* weather was very wet and cold; but we made pretty good pro- gress, and, by the 4th of May, we were within a few days' sail of Cape Clear, when we were brought to and boarded by the Dryade frigate^ of 44 guns and. 250 men, captain Drummond commander. The boarding officer here was also a S0otsn>an> and, like the' others |)ehaved with greal politeness.'' h - 1 > .' * He told' us they; had been one of tiie convoy to the West Indi^ ileet, ^ far as the lati^ile of 30° ; that they had been out five: i^Keeks, and were^.to, cruize betwe^ $^ w<^ reachiEid'the Cliann^f told uS' flatly, that, /being^nqw: iM^ the British kix^g'^ don>iniou8, he woi^;.swear< if lyeywerei all d-^ piif^ As the gentleihan was tin((er Me |ff^t/ai(;e ^ Mif maiumyVfe lyere e-en obHgedrto submit to.rqy^ autho: rity, (and the fines w^ere thenceforth remitted. .. > ^ni'. We passed C^ Clear on thelOth^ ai>d hadaiineifiew of the Irish coast, iirom the cape to the Old Head of Kin- sale. At boot cam suadeus, and that V die£Uza all hi» cai "I^etty \ onl^ ^ back aQd^teU^^y< you,'^«id about^ it all nvthyouHM gieatfaigsi aying,he] ^^Onthe«J sBntB^fipom 1 lotted the; «iiam tktwe wer JMjj^ from' staled fbimi pair some ti Abbut 4 btttlhe wine tfe progress. pwnd, and s%iiidf whicl board. We imm news, Imt he VOL. I. w THE ATLAMTIC ilyCEAN. 297 sde. As we glkkd; along with a fiur wind,, a little pilot boat cttne off from the land to meet ua^and tiy to per- suade us, no doubt, that there would be a ^Ai/6f^storm^i and that we must take a pilot and run inibr the jCoasL But theCliza outsailed hkn, atel he feU a,|ittle astern. He had all hi» canvas hoisted to the breeze, but without effect; ed # a/ogi«fq($,tbick thttt we were obliged to lie to. Here^we found tp^^farig Im^ from' Savamiah, in the same situation. Shevhad soled fiEHirtfeen days before us, and was likely to g^j^ito {Kxt some time after us. ^ s^ Abbut 4 o^dock in the afternoon, the fog q|eanei|;away9^ but llie wind veered about^ right ahiead, and we made li% tte prc^^fess. -Next morning, however, we were on pilot ground, and soon discovered a boat, to .which we ^lad^, s^nai^ wluch was answered ^y putting one of her hands on. . board. ■'•^ ' We immediately flocked round the vpilot to learn, the newsybut he could teUm mthing, except th^t there was a VOL. I. 2 n jitiw .election in Livopool. He could astugn no reason, t^iitsaid it was thougbt Mr. RoacoeJWQukl QOlbftiiBembei' again j we w«r« lost in coi^cture. t I - ife i^t -^^f ' i The head winds, continued* and we did^nofc make the nortk^weat buoy till, the a4lhf' when*! we wop© obliged to ,comi^ to anchor, Dunngthe night it blew a furious gale; aat wtipere . ^ at^ anchory abi?eaat> of thft^^S&st-anchored isle, V we did not ieel it much, but a pretty , lively idea of it ^ma)r^be fomied^ ton. iki^ eap^^ account ;*hie said f^ it waft/enpMgh tobtowthe baipiout of afetto^ahead*" The gale ^iQQntinuei^iaU.ii@xt ^yviu^ Ihem wa^ no possibility of g^^^ting on sh^)re, ihoug^^t wore ^evy anxious. ; At length, adt«Q«ii 11^ a^.^ot boat hove in sights and we imtde aigiial Jbr jher. > 3hiBn€2ime ^ong^ md%acidt accompany u%,!»^ ait ooutfor Liverfiooli distant about jeven milcs^ and a piet^ respectable caval- caije. In cprv way m^ Jeiyoyed the land soeneiy is much i^ WustCTiDg weath^^^?^^ W^ we i^j^-im^'i .tm THE ATLAKTIC OCBAN. isi were about'half way^'lTodc towardt the guide, imd aaked howinvrnvfat from Liverpool. '* Moed I doan't know," said he; '* Oh," said I, ** I presumetyou are a stringer here a» well as myself.'* ** ,^nanJ^* said he. *' Anan!'? re- peated li wHh surprise, ''^ why , I suppose you have never travelled- this road before." ^'O yeaz, zur, an hundred tfmes." ** What, and don't know the distance we^haveyet to fjo !** "Ko I doan't" ** Nor the distance we have come?" <*No^no^thBt1leather." «*Nov the whole distance?^' *m3rselfi< Only tldt^ of thtt, master Brodcf and contrast it with the keen inquisitive disposition and shitwd answers of a A4»i^£ng-^ land mAn. ^ WettiSlcbed ihe feity about 4 o'cloek/ and immediatiely etoBsed'^iver to Liverpool, where we agreed to readesvous Sf te King^s Arms tavern; and constituting the Liverpool melchant imr steward, to bespeak a dinner, we took each 0oriteveral way, as bui^ness^ or friendships directed^ m i'ttmTiimf- • i'lf ** ■■ ->mmt^^' 'I- . . ■', .•!>•> ' : • ■ ■■ . • •1 i-;. . '1 ■ ■ - /■ ■■ ■ ' ' A*. [ ■ '- J ^ ■..>.- ^^ %--!\. r ■ :'j!»Tiy"- % --^'k'T." •'**- f^im 300 tBAVBLS IN '^"H*' '^'■■^-mm^M- CHAFTfiR XLV m m •' *^ £ioerpo6ly''^Electi6n^^^Chamng the members. aFTER partmg with the company, I went immediately to the ooffee-house to examine into the' causes of the change of' councils; and to form a judgment, iF possible, iHiat ef. feet the measure would have upon the Amofican trade. I took a file of the London Couriei on the one hmdj and of the Morning Chronicle on the other, and traced' the whde proceedings, step by step, titt I came to lord OrenviUe's explanation in the house of lords, and that of Mr» Grey ifi the commons. I saw that bigotiy, prejudice, 'illibetali- 1y, and corruption, had prevailed over virtue,'patriotisni, and integrity. I exclaimed, woe is my country 1 and with a heavy heart went to. j^in my eompanionsai the dinner table* '- ■' '■'■^■w-M¥#titi*i»-' ■ '■ ,■■.,.,> ■, 1* The next object of inquiiy, and inf« wlach i was most deeply interested, Was the probable'^ efiect« that ^fMs change would have upon the American rekitions; and here again my anticipa^ns were fer from bdng &vouiiri)Ie. 1 ob- served diat one pat of the play upon the passions of the Engliali nation, and a very «ucce8sfol Okie, was to hold out the idea of a .** universid monopoty of trade." The doc- trine was openly and loudly promulgated by ^ newmi- nistry and their partisans : That there was no use irfe hav- ing a naval force created at such an expence, unless it was 90 organized and condacted as to controui the trade of the IBiraLAHD. 301 irorid in fiivour of Britaio. The sea ought of right to be British property, aiid not a vessel should sail the ocean but by British permission. Bonaparte had conquered all the land, and Britain should conquer all the sea; and the late administration were- charged with a criminal neglect of du- ty in not enforcing these principles. I saw reason to dread that they would be enforced now. I knew, or thought I knew, that America would not submit to them ; and hence I feared a rupture; I observed, however,* that Mt. Ers- kine wa» to be continued as ambassador, and, reflecting on the nature of the American government, I oonsidefed that there would be no rupture on their part before they had tried negotiation to the utmost. I therefore judged it ex- pedientj under all circumstances, to go on with my busi- neid, and to take prompt measures to make my shipment gi«QOrdingly« ■ ^^'^*: **•■ • u:'>finr''-'.,ii .-?* .* »•.'• . I During the few days I stopped in Liverpool, I was as- dendy engaged in making^ commercial arrangements, and had time for few remarks that woiild be interestmg to the general reader; I shall thetefinre only notice two or three circumstances^ calculated to show the temper of the times. We were informed that there had been an election in Liverpool two days before we arrived. The tory candi- dates were, generals Tarleton and Gascoygne; the whig, canctidate^ Mr. Eoscoe. ' Toty principles were tremen. dously triumphant, so much so, that Mr. Roscoe durst not even appear at the hustings; and his friend, colonel Ta}ior, who was proceeding there in his behalf, was intercepted by a band of armed men, and had his horse killed under him. The tavern where we lodged was mostly frequented by travellers on business, and the evenings were generally de- voted to long and fervent discussions, some^mes animated 3oa TKAVELi ni defaiteB* As the company were ooUected fiponr all quar. ten of the itfamd, we had a good oppcirtuni^' ofi Ickming the public sentiment in general; and it appeared to me to be in^fevour of the ndwmimstry^ by a Tast majority of the leading men in the< country. ?' 1" During my stay in Liverpool^ ** the chairing of the mem- bers,'* as it is called, took^ place; It was conducted in this way. Chairs, of elegant workmanship, wepe provided, rich, lyernamented wkh silks and drapery^ principally' of the colour of the members' livery. They had cushions for seats, and two sides supported a^ pavilion roof on each. They were borne on appropriate carriages^ havingtwo poles, and the candidates were carried on theni by^a num* ber of men^ from the place of election^ through tiioae plEirts of the town that £m6y or vanity directed. In this procession general Tarleton took the lead. His livery was' green, the other's blue* They were both rich- ly dressed in regimentals. They stood up uncovered in the chairs, and proceeded slowly ^ong, looking and bow- ing in all dii^ctions to the populace, who, in return^ waved istre^uners of gr^n and blue ribbons from the windows. Round each chfufwere a numberof person^ cariyiilgpoles with boards nailed to the tops of them, and labels pasted on the boards. These also deserve notice. ** No popeiy ;" " Church and king ;" " Long live the king ;" ♦* No dic- tating to the royd conscience;" *' If I forsake my king, may God forsake me," and a hundred other sayings the presumed sentiments of the members, were thus exhibit- ed to the multitude ; who, in return, testified theh* loydty in repeated daps and huzzas, accompanied by flourishes of blue and green ribbons. Even the members of the frail in green and blue^ in all directioos, dBoanrng^pink and Mn Roscoe, and^swearing to theilr loyalty and tkqp devotion to the king and the two generals. : In the. afternoon, I met with a friend in the street, 2fid weradjoumedi to a tivem t(» get aome pQf!ler.' See- ingannmber of people k :!x public room, I went tiiither, and sat'down by a plain-lookingvinan, who was expatiatfaig on the late election^ It was not all common sense that berdeliveied, but^^it wa» auffieient to show lie was a poU^ tieianf and I enteredinto conversation^ with himi >' ObseiVi. iag a piece of green ribbon^n his button-hotei I took hold of it^ and asked him whurt he wore it for; *''€lk)d -Uess thee$?> Asaid he, with a stare of amazement, **wl^, do'si^t thee' know what that's vor? why, where^does thee ^cum vrom ?** " From America, last," said I; ** Oh^ 1% war- mUt you'll be a Yankee Boodle, and will have no zuch fii- itfQ(u#^oihgs as these among ye. Now, I'll tell ye, this is -tny^ltvery.?' - I pretended ignorances " Oh, then,^ , and Ir " you ale ^« livery servant." ** No,'V said^ he, ^'¥m vtyteit mani^ -** i ^ know ^that,'^ said I jx" I know there are na slaved in this country." "Why, thee do'stt't understand mej^*«ald he; *< I be one of the vree men of Liverpool : I geid my vote vor our vaVorite member, 8nd'thi& is Ms livery*^' ^* Oh, ho," said I, a&etingad- mir^tHn ^f hi» colisequence, ** you are« great mar, then ; a voter, heyi" >*'^h, yes, I be, alid ourzide^s the strongest-: we hnvfe^put 'em aH down. '^***f* Who have yoCi put -^ '^Hr- -,,,., 1 1 learned dial none but fivemencoiild VQte< for mei^^ of parliamcait; and that^ faifilBiieKofJpeenian coiM only bexibtidnedKbyaeven years servitude to^#eemanf$f many of fi whopn ai^ r^quaily inlipUigeqt withr tiny^^J^iaxd ?at the tavern. - ,' -v; ■. ■•„, ^ .. 4 1 .;v>^^^jf¥*'»*;#*^;Blj "*.•»>. (I '■.■ii,f m-c KunxUskiii m ■;. I ■ m- ■t :'A :hj; b Iddi.'^ i s^e but >fcif Gla^^cniir, ' neGotitpaniecT by to'clock in the moft^Hg, and pastsk in^.vthKmgfa Qmakirk and Preston, reached Lancaster, 55 miles from Liverpool, where we stopped for dinner* The weather waisiagteeable;: the country] baUth^ weH cultivated^ eihkniting^aifery pretty appearance. Ofins* liik ift' a plaoei of titlie consequence \ but Pveston has a popblation of 14^000, and canieti od manu&ctures, particu^ Ivly in cotton, to a great extent. ^^ Jjonoffetf^ islthe ooimfy towHy handsomely situated at the idaouth of the>ffiver Lone, and contains about 8000 in- habitants. It has Gon^dekable commerce, but veiy little to Ameiica ; its^ chief mailuiactures being ssdl-cloth, fur« niture, hardware, candle^, &c. The dukeof Bridgewater's canal tuns near (ianoaster, and crosses the river by a very spaciousaiqueduct bridge, built of hewn stone, which has a fine appearance when viewed £nom the road. After dinner, we continued our journey 18 miles to Kendal, where- we stopped for the ni^t. The country vol.. I. 2^v « ^ *i>j^On»£!''Qf ofur jNissengers was a shipping-merchaht from London^' and he expressed his disapprobation of* ktrge tow^, and has codsifierable manu&ctories of cottpos^^oot- Ijena^ jstddnngs^^hista^ li»^i some nf m^ih ace^iaaGUifited fi^ 'die 'American tradei'-^ "■.■^- >r.}-'f^fi<* i\^^fi' M■^^''y^%'^9Rd^ldboiiildB in^^farivlngfiirRis. rThe pQuntfey impiote^ toWdids iQariisle^ Iftimilesi^iftanti round, wblitsh it i4 ^^tated lilce a garden.' f J)-, f gpingcp sior^ngt ^'^.i^^milc si»aPp|9ce t > large inlet fi A fine fihami Four mile celebrated f( gioillg^ to Glasgow J^yt^^ie l40^4pl^ ^ipduly, ^9^pqc^S||^ )i^iuiliouF|«pd, jp|l|Pipiie^ tii9ey wetQokftyvaU^tl^iaugh .^ QifMtkM prettily 8^ti|^|fi4^,^, c$)P^m» .a ^pq^wl^tijo^ i^tlQ^^lOQ^ It i& fevqu^bjy ^i$ualied % c^^y ing 9|i mafl% hi^ ppiireA<»Hpoc9iiai^^^ ,ji aDt^oiiiated that we would suffer a tittle fi(W U^.^d^^aJli k#pt w«*,^i?qul4,^^ ^4l^v^^!^ P^¥^ tkiftiWie crosied a little stream, and Jj^e^jl, ^"^ « Old Scotia, our ^eir, our riarfve sAik" ^* ^^ KeflR we hod 11 iffiy exten^'ve view, ^lu^y ,^, a veij large inlet fixMn the Irish ae% was pp our Ei|^t ; afi4 bef, yf«*^fellie iGunilPi^rtel^l^^ m^MJ^i C glM^HMguHude^ aTo fto W^ i^orth'.we^ ai^, nor^ a fin&fihainpaign c»uA^>y pjn our rear towards CMisl^^ Fourmiles frwn hence j* the vUlage of Gretna Qrefh^ celebrated for the coupling blacksmith who lives in it. 806 ^'■«rAY«l»*1IN tws of marriage' vrScddand ate veiy smipIe'^U l( agre^to many, tiieyMcaif carry tibeir imtttit&on Into effect 'by declaring their union iiefctre wkneasto r and thisy ^diough contrary to the rules of^^the churdiy and to ihe geineril jpradioeof the QOuitti>y,^«onititiltes akigal'niar. fis^ '.' ^It ift idso applicable^ to thctttidvto of Stou^ Britain when^Oiey cometo^nor^^ on wbicii aecoiMtiitfitqQent. }y happens,' thi^in^^ a genlienian'sM 1^ ki Enghuid U\ in 16vt;iiid cailnot li¥e%ithout ^ ottidiifeis WUIfe th^iat so unfortonate Ha not to'be able to d^A'^d^xHsent^f their ^fiendsy theyniet off on it matriittOnitf trip tiiSetidand?; and ihis beingfihe indttest ^itti^^ huittoroi!is &roe,^ cidkd ^-©retaa lib 1^ road beyond'tibis place was very foughibut# was 4iaitie ydr^itd^' >^Wt^^^ .^A^'i^i, ^ ^^^ '{>lace) Wtdr&xki6d.M^^ sti{)per. IPiisfis a litl^l^abe^ a^ hllls^' aiid"0i%'fneiiisr jid- vjioe as> ^e^ stoppin^^place^ ^ the ' stages^ oik die wi^ tc^ and fioRi Eiigland, There are some good medicinal Sfiftligs Jn ity^ nei^itioiiiiiood^ ^^ > Leaving /Mofl&t^ we had tovoross a kli^ ^^lain^o^ hiUs [ aJbut I ean give 4IO particular adcoutitof the ^hfigliration bf the country ; ^oo-, though I haVe oM>p!(iiiedi thirough i^k, it has always been in the night; The night w«s now very cold; but a gentleihan left die msdli-at Mo^t, and thciulQj Nln^^ and)>sucl myself a 1 quendyp ear. ;It i heard bei canna.get other; ^,*.- ittiinnna ^fKaiJ^ I could v> got it tor AI>oul lli^inileS: feirtiJe^valli mualiawe gpw^ live We pas -*' t fitbn rand iid to liitatn loent- ndM i^ their if; and oil who GtttlEtion, ^tm- ^Gfetna bit was |sitt)per. ltd- (hetailors'caU it;^^ spdl arid speB^tttiout'^dC t6ei<4i M4n ^(tiiiSMWiiy w«t ftissed the ' 8eufce»» *' Caa ye-nof said the others ^^-wfaat aik'df " i. *^ Goth) I dimia ken wed ; but itrtm^nna draw dirough wi* me,'' 4* Ye'll better cut4t.'' *f Ka^I^Uno fash to do thaty«t; PU takrmy^teethttili't?' I leeuldinot' see what they wei^ about; but they ^aoon got it to rights, whatever it was, and we drove ort. -v ; ^ , About sun^rise, we reached the village of Hamilton^ the saal^fcHie of the most ancient j^ of Scotland. Iiis Uj^miles Irom ll^^sgoW) on> tfie river Cllyde^^ in n^ine fertile' vaUey^^aodisv noted foT; imsing Mt^ A great maay mualiii weaver8,v«who worlj; for the manu^ctuiers of Glas-. gow^ live at this. place, i Indeied, they are s^xltt»^^«ll .'>■■ ;#*' •'n I .^s^-fi^mifi.nyt .>;44/ , jM|||MU|^^ug|^|u|i|j|k^g|y|M||||Y .,1 4, CHAWT5R Xi-TH. '^s»^ I CONTINUED in OkBgow until the 19tli of June^ vsheHfttk prctoectitien «f ^n^^ ceommercial buaumsi I aet out f^ Etiglandi I ttfok a passage by the mail coacb^ and travelted thrioagh Carlisle and Preston, to Mandxsatar; l%imoiaRtry' fh^n^ Picstoit to Manchester is:^ piobah^ IMbng tile i^hitsA W¥.t)^ttaidi « The fidds aito 'wdll cttlti; vaMd ; die housed afRomi 44ia man] ■htmt^OQ ptodatu :>'iftlanii^ wards ofS lnit-the>en Utended Ihbi^intBodi ,cogtneyi«x< itaoatoid ^puiallyin tioDuif the bmnberd' *radearef^i ^msmuam.' 311 I set CQACb^ hsstef* dbtkAf lexitto iiiiimt- ». J ^ „ mtiy rtf^ the «.*•: r Mif oommerGial friend in Liverpool being a proi of buainessj I made an arrangement with him, in' cotine of a few houra, to my entire satls&ction} and im* itoediktdy returned to Manchesttir; From the ample as^ sistance afforded me by my friends^ I was able to expedites my businew in this place with great celerity, and I had an excellent voppoirtunity. of observing the ^vcry extended manufactliites and commerce of this place, and their i^ plication to the American trade. >> v^ I f>^Mandieilflri though it nmks only as a viUi^ isa^ place ol^ great . antiqnity^a* town having been utilised , hete by di^jfioQuoMtin the i^7!th year of Ihe Chriaiaaik aeta, md is iMKW^^iik point ^of population, the second town in Enfgatid^ 44in manufikfitures, decidedly the fimti ^he streets ate ahMit^OC^hi tmmber, and some of them iipaciousf but a fTQit^ ttunyi' are^ too aamowj and the; town is^ upon the HA/th-iAttxy ifvegular* The ^number* of hou^^ is com- pitd at' iq^pfard^ ^ X2»0Q0, md the iidiabitaiitsi amount sviifanu^ieliiiefthave^been estabhal^ place'&riupi i«aidttof'dOO'^«ai%^iuidvhaye been conlami^ encrpasing; but theiencrease since the iq^plicatifiin of maduipefy , on an eitnided 'scnle; to:^ cotton trader' and^/^paitic^ilBilyshice dio«:«inlBodiiclim-^Qf &hon and ; rWatt^s improved steam ,aigine,4exeped9 all ; former f exajaaple,^ in any places or any cimnti^. . IFfaere ace* a vast number of cottcm mills erect- fld^^ilir: tfaetito^, and maH^ o^ ithem emplc^ upwards df llQQQv luHids^f ^ ^jfi^ie i^ raw ^material i consumed iinnuiEilly >jn4lu$ %brwch,. is immense, and a 'oare • enumera- tidn&of the articles it is mami£|ctured into^ wpi4d fill a nomber of pages. Those most calculated for the American tiade are fustians, waistcoatings, shirtings, cambrics, dimi- SJfi Tm^MUtB JM iWroray^ table napery, atookings, glove v bnc<% bed- ^itilli^ fcq.-ftx« Of otiier artklea there are atao «xtenaive ttod in^xirtaiit iiiiain]iiiBtiivea» auoh aa h«t%* ailka, ..tapesi firitigfa, laoea, 8ic. ;, and Manphealcr i»a gfncral inarto for the viiatiuftctiirea of the whole oounliyrpaitkularly every deacripaion of ;WOoUeiMk r 9^ From Manebealjer I, travelled to Buiy^ nine, miles, thiODgtean uiieiKfvi, btit^feitile and wtU-i^iltivatedjCountryt ' The principal .manu&ctures here are wooUena^iwrticularly plaini»pqiting«»blankieta»jmd flannels^ , ^v jjKfiut^^^nm^ : imfffHn Bury |o Rochdal^^ia ^.miliaif the /wnntxy neartjr th^ am^^^aa Ihe^ last mentioned. Heie are iMmaa^^ mam^ietiireii^paKticiilarly fianaela of a veiy e;^«i9lkjnii<^alii^. Fro^ BioGhdale to Hali&x ia 17 mtlea». paiftfy utfairou^ ail ^e»l«Bfiiy« moor,! sIokI Ae whole countiytia hiHy».8Qnie of :)it iromantii6.^4 ntAt Halifax there are very yextenaiw ■waiiMforjrureaof wooilena, partkaulariy of :broQdr)aninam>w ■V>:-'f -■.■'■,-»'li^*,' If Irfiim ^Hali&|Lv/t(|;^ luoeda ia 16/mflear* tfarougb a.hilly !^miRti|r,ij<^t wtehfjtheiaoii imprai^loirardai^llicr^lattttr. H^ «Ii«eda ;i8;beaiiti&ill|pvaitiiated In a vei^ ^ftile voountry^, anil:ia die .^raa^atitownwiJ^nglaBdlQiithe vi^^ manu^ fiaotnifis* The jnoBl impiftant niaiwifaetu«»iM: America me^. . broid > a^d nairow lM)»^;^annej8j ae^ge^^ioaflamvpiees, callimaticoes^ duranta^ htebazeens^^bomfaasetii^ bbiikfitS) ali«pniito,^in owpdiib. ^ ^Tl^^^ooiis^ <^coii^i4a |^^ and Fcom tlKJa phK^ Iipa^iied about IS. nukii^ ithroiigh a pretty well^aetded country^ but piaprdy xnoofi to the : great London road, with the view of taking my passage for ■«'^ bed. niivc etfor every nulet, untry* ^ukirly f neaiiy tu#ty. lenMW fluarQW axhiUy ttef* ounlvyf ^toim fha eat for ISnolahik;! dt3 GlaigQW by > the.) Londcn mail. .When the mail (^qplpe forvmcd it was fuU, aii4 I was disappointed i but a oMidil paiaed soon after fot Newcastle, and bemg informe4'thae tlie^ine was continued liom thence to Edinburgh, I availed myself of that conveyitooe. '*¥Mi. It was about 11 o'clock at night when we set out, and, travelling all night, we passed through Northallerlon, about 30 miles from where we started, at day-light next mom* iiig. The eountry^vl was informed, is pretty fertile, and wdi cultivated^. ' '>.'^.-.<:^'^;'ii;rf-^.'*' .- -.^ From Northallerton^t to Durham is about 27 milev, through a poetty fertille' ^country, and Durham, the capital of ithe county of the same name, is beautifully situated on tlie«iv«r Wear, surrounded by very fertile and well<4iulti' \«toi 'fields; - , !' S«K>m Durham to Newcastle is 16 miles^ partly through MIe fields^ but the soil becomes worse towards New- Glilfe^:^ an4tHv tlnutHne^bourhpod the coimtry abounds with eoal^min^i We had frequent and extensive vieWs ofitllieA'GenaaB Ocean by the« way; and I oould not help canttaating tihe bRoiMir' of i Hxt country, not much more tlianmrsettled< America, to^ conciliate the dfeqtiolis of;»to >gcQilfring pofMlati cultivate a ^)Newcai[tte.i»'8itualBdonMtll0; liver Tjme, and is lai^i and populous,! bbt is jnvguklr,^^^^^ not very dean ;- it 1$ chiedy remarkablei for its great coal trade, the greater pcttt oft^the -supp^^of.tfae En^h metropolis being derived fiom it.- , ■ •.>, '^:v^ • ','■■-■■;,''■ ■■ ■• ■ ;.*: ■ Yoi..«<,r*a Sf*: ij*r ^.2■,'R feyji^ 114 TKA/VBLI IN Jim lito|iped«tt night, and sttfted b|r the tal of Scotland. In all this distance the soil is excellent, and the agriculture in the most improved state. We reached Edinburgh at 10 o'clock at night, having travelled this day 120 miles. t^ Edinburgh is, widiout exception, the most beautiful city that I have yet seen. Its situation b singular. To the eastward of the city is a conical hill, called Arthur's Seat. Its base is probably about half a mile in diameter, and it is 700 fleet high. To the north-west of this b a ridge of hills called Salisbury Craigs, probably about one ihinl of a mile in length, and about 350 feet high, havuig a steep acclivity on the west, which overhangs the eastern part of the city. Near the focA of these the city commen*' oes, and from thenoe the High-street runs due west about a mile, rinn^ at an angle of about 10 degrees from the horiaon, and at its extremity is terminated by the Castle, on a rock, from whence there is a perpendicular descent of about 350 feet. This ridge is only of sufficient breadth on the top to form the street, from whence it immediately fidls by a steep descent on both sides, and nearly to a level with the foot joi the High-street. To the south, a narrow street, called the Cowgate, runs in the hollow, and, be- yond k, llie ground j^;ain limmediately rises, and spreads oUtintoioi open plain, on which stands the south part of the town. The hollow to the north is called the North Loch, because it was once filled with wafier, but it is now drained ; and to the north of it the ground riaes> and di6 T|IA:¥BLB in spreads out' into a fine plain, on whidi the New Town is built.-: V,.., .. . • -;?-^ , ■ . --•. *^ To the east of the New Town there b a smaller hil}^ ealled Calton HiMy which is public property^^ and affoids fine walks, and most agreeable prospects. «♦ . »* . .- ;.> 4i ::i «.The Old Town is remarkable for its singular configu. ration, and lofty houses, some of them 14 stories high; and the New Town, whether we view it in regard to the elegance of its plan, or the regularity^ symmetry, and beauty of its buildings, is, beyond all comparison, the most elegant city I ever saw. > The Old and New Towns are connected 1^ the North Bridge, an elegant building, which crosses the North Loch ; and a fine street . is continued across^ the High, street, and by the South Bridge crosses the Cowgate, and connects the south part with the north part#. This Mdge has elegant buildings On< each side, except at the middle, where they are interrupted by the CoM^te^ and here the view is as singular as can well be imagined: being de- yated on the bridge, you see the busy Jnhabitantsbek)W, |o tJie east and wfpt^ the whole length of the street i ^r % Leith.is considered as the port of Ectinburgh^ and is connected with it by a very broad avenue, nearly) two miles long, called Leith Walk. The whole population of Edinburgh and Leith was, in 1801, 82;36a ■-■■_■ The whole adjacent country abounds in rich ; scenery, ^nd weU cultivated fields and gardens; and frontits pecu- liar coi^urarion, it exhibits a greater variet^^f^jlaeisr Jews than any other -{dace l-have. everjseen.>*«»f^fi«"''iff«?^?^t #,;^£dinburgh is the seattof the supreme oouTt, ;a())d the law has become a fashionable study among the nobility and gentry of Scotland ; the greater part of whcmi have b4L^ ^ci^Ttxiilfr W! er hUl; affords '■'..' '■. . oniigu- I lugh; 1 to the ry, and on, the eNortii » North e High- ;ate, and s bridge middle, here the dng ele- St. I ^■ ai9d is arly) two ilation of scenery, its pecu- views and the nobility have thehr wihter readftnee in the city. ' This dreumstance not only affords a permanent fund for the support of the tfky, biit forms an assemblage of beauty ' and fashion nirely equalled, and the winter assemblies and fashionable parties have a brilliancy aiid splendour not to be found, probably, in any other part of the world. The seminaries 6f education, and other litierary and scientific institutions, are known and prized all over the Ae world." Asf die city draws^ its pemiarient stippCtft fiy^m land, it has^nbt its de^^dehce on foreign commiercfe, like the manuiacturing and comnidfcial cities. Though the manu&ctun^s are considerable, they are mostly calculated for ifitemal trade. i*^^ >*k t;>^^ >»u ''nie state of soci^ is, ' gfeheralty speaking, excelfent. The people aire tVell infdrmedj frank, and generoXis; As to^e ladies, they are elegant to a proVerb. Thosfe" t^ho htti^e^er be^ on " Leith Walk in the gloaming,'* ^d^n hear^^^hess to^^ir *• anigelic fbrihs;'* theii- " rosy c<^ plexibrts;'' aiidthfeir ** Pitching ^iles." But as I niight he accused 6f psfttialit^ fbr iriy fifflP cauntiywOTnteri; \vere I to sp«^^yMhdM thi^'snbject, I sh^ll Me niy Ifeave ofthe Edh*fl)u<^ladiesrby*^ddre§sii^ tti^ ydtmger t^^rt of theni^ im the wcmxIs of RdbeiV Burn^ :' , . And send ye lads in plenty. <*f^^the^lea^ S^otfei^ #*4 o»clb^ aft^- noonj^^aiUd'fefkJhed Glasgow, 42 rhries distaiit, si^ qiiartfei" before 10, which was pretty quick travelling.' I hate fS^- quehdy heard it remarked; that the Telegraph, bjrVhich I travified, is imder'^better regulations than any |iublic coach in Scotland^ except the Mail, In the first 10 or 13 m VttATHtS tS miles ©f this joiitticy^ the country is pretty rich. The lieitt 14 miles, it is cold and bleak, and but little cultivated. To. %vaids Glasgow, the soil again improves ; but, generally speaking, the landd are much infi^rior to what they are in the ndghbourfaood^fMEitiiibiirgb: ^ ' ip ^v : :t^ ■ ■':"^mm*^?-~.. •t^. m- .■'■■■ ■ ^ ■ •. .%-. ■■■'■• 5^.f,*-. ; ^ ■ . . ■ . ^ » r - . .: ■•■■ - r »>* .•S><'*.'i. iSniiJI"* a' « > , iii'.i/- I -■> ■ ', ■'"' 1 ' .\ . !* :>mf j« ^« eiiett , To- nmlly are in *^P^^** ^ " IR;" 'wwB liilitlllMiii f^- ^^'•> .*.^. CHAPTER XLVra. '*W OhsgoWy^SHrKngt^-Creiffl — Methvetiy — Perth. Having completed my shipments, I had now little else to do but wut the return, and c^ course xould pay some attention to public matters. The plans of the newminis* try soon began to develope themselves.' One of the most successful engines which they had used to oust their pre- decessors, was to charge them with want of energy ; and it became necessary for them to support their character by adopting energetic measures. Accordingly a great big ex- pe^^itioit was prepared, with much solemnity and parade; and having looked about in all directions for an object to tuveck the vengeance of the nation upon, they hit upon Detknark. Denmark was a neuurd and fiiendly power; but that Was of no importance, they could'there^ strikie a blo# with effect, mid convince the world of the ixemen- doui^ 'power of Britain, and the energy of her ministers. The blow was struck, and a terrible blow it was for Den- mark;^ but it was more terrible still to Britain: it laid her honour low in the dust, and pointed her out as the enemy ^ of thieiuvilized world. ♦ I dreaded that the next blow would be struck at Aihei> rica ; and so it was^— but in a di£b%nt form : it was a blow at neutral trade. The famous orders in council made thdr sKppearance on the llthof November, 1807, ^nd at onsjkil ■t ■% djptw^iPrQgiiM^ the pi|5jB?4puri#bi»g trdjj^pf^^ ^i^Pepple of all ranks were astonished at these proceedings Q^tifie l?!*bi!Bj^t.j Jtjvai^ spine .Iim€»iind^e4, l^^ithe-^tature of th^ (a^§^ p.,C)Q!|EyQU^^i9^ unflers^^ ^uch .was the re* markable pbscurity, of the language in which ^ they were drawn,, an(dord€^foUQwe4uppn .qrclprst^w^ mon^th, or s|x weeks, to explain them. But their effects were soon fttess^y J*P m^iit W£i9 eyidfc:iit that the American peqjlft ne- vj^r, wPMld submit tq theiut ; iand J. dioughti I had good tea- spnsfpr fonning th^t opinio^. I had recentl}^ returned from >4n;^^ic9* J had^ardeptly, studied ^ geiuius and powetr of that people. X kn^w that their spirit of sitern indep^ence M[qiil4 n^ver ^bmit to be dictaitied to. where ; they ^should G^y their own, goods ;if^. -their pwpi vessels*:, v J, icalculs^ted thai; they hftd pqwerotc^j^^P wi^ioul Britij»l>v^adejiifut^^ wiai(S ^i?*^! to:^. 1 J l^qinbl^ifpr tb^ re^uit, ml Itwecp^ e4l)y,ai^ticjipa|ipn, ajkjtiie riMii^ pfi ^(tainoss j^t Jihfl4 pT'* g^?ed with such tet)9ur,? and in which ^ll mjj^caf^tJ^ and aU ri^y,gre^ |iyeii;,emb^ked! Put |i. spM^tery ii)^4^^ lyliat Qpuki 1 4^1 tibo^^whO; wielded :fti& ppwiw: ijf .^ cpwfMJK^ W jf^^s^ rti^rA^wS; and: it ;^ of %tCti T^ei?e -Wlis #J a faint, g^^n^ei^ng of hope l^t, that^p^^lia-. m^ nf^ight)^^ i|s wisdom, repeal the c»ders in eouncil j aia4 jii4^8 i]t^xpl^#i^l'^ *o,cors*4bute^^ ledg€ to an iUustripus and independmtniemher of th^ hO" nQurable bpdy, I wrote thp letter Ui tl^e Appe;ndi2{;, JSfp. 2. Ifi^^wing: J^is letter^ J 9Qi>sid^f4rit r^y p4w^ iP giy^ a sj>(^^9t!ch pf tl>e vif w. ,i5?Jji9h myphse,r]i^ati|ttu$ kd.niecto tajs^e jpffjthei Jim not only as. aj^ a^^t, Qf,'\grap t^de ief JJiCf fkjqad hospifcllity of that people^but l^Gfiusi^ it w£^ the i^hion of the day, and supported by one, of the ^COTLANll. 321 molt poimkr-of the pibrk)dia4.¥hrittrsj to traduoe and vi^ lify the ecnintiy fay every iying stmy that could be laid Tlu8 tetter was drawn up about tlie 20th of January^ but it was not sent off before die 27th, by which thne wd;had the news of the first fruits of the orders in council-^^t^ American embargo ; and this brought matters, as fiur as i was concerned, to issue. I knew from My letters that adt funds would be locked up ill Georgia ; I could t^oulate upon no time for a return; so I made the best afcranget inent that I could devise, under existing circumstancesi and resolved to wait with as much patietice as I could £[^ the lesuk* - u^liaving completed this arrangement^ I took a journey to a^ my f^tions in the east country. : On the 1^ >of March, 1808, I lei^ Glasgow by th^ gtage for Stirling, distant 27 miles. The first 13 miles Is Arougbapiet^good country to l|ie village of CumbemaUild, pi^ipally oi^upied by muslin weavers. Two miles be* jGQpd ttus the road passes the Fo#i and Clyde canal^ a work of greait utility, by which there is a skx^ navigatoi from one side of the island to the other. Four miles from thence there is, an extensive printfieldt after which the rdad passes through a dreary moor, tjU wpthin two of three niiles of &iiiing, when the Carae commences, one of the most fertile spots in Scotland^ Stirling is situated on the Forth, at the head of sloc^ navigation^ an<^ is a place of great antiquity, having been long the residency of the Scottish .kings, and i» distiR<> guished in the history ef the wars with England. It b si- tuated on a hiU, somewhat like Edinburgh, terminated by a castle, fipom whence^ there b one of the most niagnificent VOL. I. 2 s 3d2 TBATBL8 m i^ewt m> ScoUmid. . Stilting eoncal^' about 5SXX> people, n^ ttrryaa coiisideivdisieixiflim^cmre^jvof Wluch carpet- ing is the cluef: "H^ From Stirling txl Duntblaiie is six mUes^ and the road ivinds Ahvough a coumtiiy as romantic as^ can' weU^ be ima- gined. It is the opening of ' the OphiU iHitts^ in which is the cohfliieiQceolrthrto considerable fivers, the Fpr^, tbe Tdth, and the Allan. h Dumblane is situated on the latter, and is a flmaU^ place; abounding in little dirty houses^* but ornamented with the re- mains of an okl cathedralL - From hence the itod continues itongthe north side of the Sheriff Moor^ wdl known in Scot- tish history, 11 miles, when it winds to the nordiward, and phypeeds through ikm M^dor of QrchiU, a veiyelevated^coun- tiy^ from die summit of which there is an extensive view, wtience 1 could db^ryihe seat of my nativity^ ^ miles distant' '•• • '■.- •■' '" ■•' ■" i-'V^^'i ^-. ^iife FlasMng Mtithil^i^iisinGlll' viU^, the countrjri in^MPibvi^ Mtw4i miles to the^bsttdti^ df ^tiie liver £m^ w^ibE'^cit^ M'by a gbodistcHiie 1^^^^^ aci^i(^^ i)f half a«idA^,^ Whettv tefi% situ^ the brow 0(fa*liiB/4s^ villaigeofCa^EFi'^ -^«i^ - k^ < - 1 r teThis^ is but' a^ i^maM^'pl^ldi^ but it was kiteresting to me as4emg tiie country^ iny ancestors^ I speitt some^litde time ai^iking myiieltttions, and then set forward fer Meth> •*f!en,> distent 11 miles* The country between Gricsff and ll^^Sfiiven Is tolerably gbod, and a turnpike road liaa lately Mi^iaiadei which rendaB^travelling veiyrpieaianitiand ex- pectit&is.>- ' \ .;'■■■' ■- ::r-,;--'-v. .:'.|-''^j-?^;iitev<^^r^ I Having spent a few days at this place, I shall avail my- sdf of the c^>poitunityito introduce an accoimt^^^^^ tive pomh^ which wi^ serve to illustrate the parish estabr lishment of Scotland generally. :•» SCOtlCiftlfA 52S carpet- le road 3e ima- 'hichis l#if the i,k ■41 ■ 1^ place; btJMre. )iit»iues in Scot- iard,afid sd'^oun- veview, torbves ^croiss- tty^tec^ he broiw t&me mie^littk Heff and las lately and ex- ■ V ■ '■ ivailmy- W^na- }h estabr Thi^ VinajsetQf^MMhven 18 8iliiii«id^ miles ttt the wettwrard^'Pcrth^t^^tfaeparrah^M^^ by FoivMs d« the west and nolth ; by Moneidy and Redgorton on the east; and Tippermoor on the south; ' Its : extreme lengtb is i^out seven miles, and* breaddi three. Its area is about 19 square miles,: and its contents in acres 12,100. The surfiioe is . midiilatin]^, some part of it hilly, but not mountainous ; it ik well suj^ed widi rivulets and springs; and "the river Almond^r a romantic stream, abounding ia fi^* i and mill-seats, runs along its whole northern borni- dary, a distance of six or seven milesw lite soil is very unequal* About five square miles con- sist iai mootv which is unfit for cultivation, butafibrds turC and heath for fuel, and some little gpizingb^^ Two miles ^consist of moss, ■ which is altogether unfit for any agricultuial puipose ;^ but a£fords excellent fuel, called there peaisk Two miles are in wood, called the wood of Mefd^en. ) Sne nulof is occupied with ^hi& pokcies fsSMs^- ym toas^f and about^ as mudi with those of Balgowan. (M the eight remaining ]i^e%, one thifd may be reckoned ra^i^ pooCj but the Teniainder is good fertile land. The whole pari^ is owned by two proprietors, thence cj^ed hmtors^ GolonelrSniith, of Methven, has ^^the largest poFtiony probably not less than three fbtirths, and the 'renuttnder belongs to the celebrated general Grahamf of&lgowani There was until lately another proprietor, who owned* an estate called Tippermalloch, consisting ^ about 700 acre^ of excellent land; but not being ent^ed, it was sold, on his demise, by hk heirs, to Smith oflSledi^ vei^fori^.iTj00a The present population is 1280 males, and 1373 fe- roalesf In all 2653, being nearly 140 to the square mile ; 9U vMmM'VH ivlil stod^htg-makers, ft dock-makers, 2 tnttch. ers,^%ild 7''Storc^keeper8. ^^-'^'^-^ ,.'^.'' ' ♦ '■ ?•.■.-■.. r. " ^( The whole land m the parish being entailed, thlffiunnen occupy ^didr ikrms on rent from die proprietovs ; and huid lets at present from £. 1 10«. to £»SSsi steiiing, annu- lalfy, per Sebtsiacre, which is about one fiAli moie than an Bn^hh acre. The farms are geiien% let on° ktea of 19 yiearSi ■ ■ - • ■•■■ ■■"• '• ••■■■ ■ The legal provinon for die minister of th^ parish con- ^iilmwwhm^}^ts2^l(^ f9bmiSOmN»6i land, (^led^ the gMfh ittid the remainder k paid by the heri- tdrs, idhb generaHf ihdemi^ diemsetve^ by assessing it oh the fdJNfhers tO' whom they Ik. di^^tod^' Thev whde of the ifiinister's ii^come in this parish, i^ about 'J^'SOo. The average in Siiotlaind, generally may be reekotM about -■j^i 200. In every parish diere is what is called' »patnHf #ho has the g^ of presentation ; that is, when s vacancy takes ip&oe he provides^d candidate of his ch^^, aiidjMv- seritshbiT Jo the people. If they vote for 1dm, he is thence- forth' miniiter (^ "dve pariiih r if they are dissatisfied, ^he is s^led t» fmnister of the parish, wA^M^ tkej^ vnU^miiot. J[n conse^tience of thb law, a great schism txmk place in thechu peoplo I iegrfpn a gardei ekilir 8 sidea^ 1 t«»lypa) shiUing] it wiiiro aschooli mfmt devote tc taMishmi ded teac die setd( %-,i^ ^cann eh«lroh|a teg'% sh( %ikichwi than fadf along ^t school w: fwnny^ penny ; pence oi i 'of ooutse, t^nent,'a 4' '*tO0TLAmii iSStS Aie cliiifolit I believe, there are some little perquisites be- sides^' The remainder of the income arises from the quar- terly payments of such as go to school. It is now one ihiUing alid six-pence per quarter, but m my young days ib' inii^ oidy one shIUing. The seceders have sometimes a schoolmaster, and sometimes not The office is gene- flilly<''fiile(l by one of their young men, who b a cancfidate ftii tlie'miniBtry ; ^ut, fromthe neoessaiy time that he must devote to other studies, it- cannot be supposed that the es- taMishraent will be equal io the other, where there b aset- tfed teacher ; diou^ it answers the purpose of inducing die settled teadier to pay more close attention to his * I cannot b€ttdr ^plaih the Or^ the school aiid dmrchi and dieir connexion one with another^ than by giv- ing a short sketch of die plan followed in my early life, %hich wyi also explain the moral economy of the piarish. r When I' was five years of age^ we lived a little more diflii half a mile from the village ; and I was sent to school along vridi )m elder brother; The first book used in the scho(^ was die Shorter Catechismy "which cost one half- penny^ The next in order was die Proverb^ price one penny; die thiM was the New Testament y price s^ven- pence oi ei^tipence. I went through the first two bodLs, d coutse, mid at seven years of age was in the New Tes- tmnent, at which time we removed to the village. The 326 TlAVCLt IMII next ijradatkm was the bible, accompuiied by. .infitilig|y and iVom thenee to Latin and arithmetic ; themnrtting being continued. The hour of attendance in the morning waa 9 Q^clook in summer, and 10 o'ck)ck in winter ; and the scliool was opened by a short jvayer. We had an interval firom 1 to 2, and were dismissed at 6 o'clock in summer, and in winter a little before dark ; when we had agi^ a short prayer. The Saturdays were devoted to repeat ques- tions in the catechnra ; and on Sunday, besides attendance at church, which was strictly enjdned, we had to get a psalm by heart, which we repeated in the school «» Mon- day morning. Those fiuther advanced in education, got by heart the proofs to the Shorter Catechism ; and' some- times we were appointed to repeat them in church, after the morning service. ;9>The people assembled to church at^ 10 o'clock Mi the morning, when the exercise began by singing firom 8 to 12 lines of the Scots psalms. The schoolmaster was pre- centor, and all, the people joined^ often forming ^a most melodious concerts After singings the minister prayed,' and then read a portion of the scriptures, on which he gave a lecture, which genen^y kisted about 40 minutest When it was fimshedf he gave outtmother pisalm to be sung, and this was odled the mid-psalm. The minister then prayed; gave a sermon, and a prayer after it. He then gave out another psabnt^:and,.witha benediction, dismissed the con- gt€gation*-'ms;*«ftt^4^r ■..• ,^^,,.■■ . ■•. .^., .-, 4M there wte'any children to i)e baptist, they were presented immediately after singing the. last psalmi and this was performed with great solemnity^ in the face of the whole congregation. The parent was admoiushed to train . up the child in the nurture and admonition of the Lord — r And I .< Ffom I n\y appre ««teyeai with fine a^pds.i is carried wj)t!\ wat< V JVth I wa|er, anc T]|ie scene con9|sti|ig; Inches, u^ ofMoncri viejrainSi and^beauty Perth cc employed on with R There are ' number of sh^>.buildii VOL. I. .-?< '-T' kivcr ilbow, soltiih menu pariih. played I with, ion for I'ltaetfi ti" biit t hardly fields,! pecidiar only f^ speak- to the dose baifl rti ioot&AMD; " ^* '' > VAad, .O I flity heaven their timpM ^ivei prevent ^ . ■ Fnm iH^ry't contagioi^ week end vile '. That howe'er crovftu and corpruu be rent, , A viETVQUt ropuLAOv may rise the whilei And stand a wall of fire around their much-loved Iblb. 3d9 >,;: v«f r- From Methven I went to Perth, where. I had served iqy ^apprenticeship to business, and spent a number oi' my earjijr yeanu The country is well cultivated, and jlbOMnds with fine scenery. The eastern p?xt Qf the river Almond a^l)^ds^ with printfiel^ and UeacAfi^lds, and a large canal is c The sfttbtmni educatkm is upon an excdknir/ooting, '^jparticularly the academy, at which is. taughl^a college education in minature, and it has furnished mpFC good mathematical scholars, calculated for the ordinary occupa- tions of life^ than any other, semin^ that has ever, coine v*.under my observation. ^' Having spent a few days in this place,, I set, out by the 4coach for Methven, and, bidding adieu to -my lelations, I K^GOntinued my journey to Glasgow, e mi ■ '':m .4,; -.i^-, 14 best arranjg but to *carr dealdfditf take a Joui (JfasgOW 01 to JEdinbu atLeith. ' ing in brd ^»^ttvaiidj great txttnt tTiepackeis to an hour; and so cauti none of then Kinghom, town, buik < which, andc it has a fine Four mile gling town, shore; and hemp, fla^jc, a T ^ .1 m 40 minuted to atl hour ; and they are under such good regulations,* and so cautiously conducted, that from tinie immcinorial none of them have been lost. Kinghom, on the north ^de of the Forth,'ifl[ slhall lown, buih on high ground, sloping towards the Forth, of wMch, and of Edinburgh and Leith, on the opposite side^ it has a fine view. Four miles to the eastward is Kirkaldy, a long strag- gling town, built mostly on one street, close along th^ shore ; and here there are considerable manufactures of hemp, fla^, and cbtton ; particularly of checks and ticks. u / 6SQ TBAYSIA IN ^ A mile beyond th%>con the height^ is ^Paifaliead, where a great deal of weaviiig is done, priticipellj for the Kvkal- dy manufacturers. A mile to the e^ is Dysart, a tittle town^remarkable^or its coal- works ; and the whole coast to the eastward is studded with towns, ^pontaining ^fiom 200 to>400 people^-t^vT: t.^ - From Pathhead; I travelled 16 miles' to Cupar; Arough a variegated country, abounding in hill and dale, woods and small rivulets. The soil is pretty good, and the system of agriculture is in a very advanced state. t: Cupar is the county town, and is a populous and thriy. ing place, having considerable manufactures ; particularly of linen goods, such as silesias and oznaburgs. The coun- try in its neighbourhood is remarkably well cultivated, and the farmers have every aj^arance of wealth, and its usual concomitant — independence. From Cupar, I travelled 11 miles to Dundee, and^ be- ing on horseback, I took tht nearest road, whidi led me ^ver a hilly tract of country ; but the soil was fertile, and it was eyeiy where covered with fine fields of gr^, parti- cularly wheat. |. While I was enjoying this v scenery, and contemplating the bounty of Providence, I was joined by a very commu- niqitive, garrulous friend, who told me he was a plasterer in Dundee. He began a long talk about Aiperica, part of which I knew before, mid part of which was never known by mortal man. But it was all gospel in my friend's eyes. He had it from the best authority : he couid not be mis- taken. — Among other tales, he mentioned that u gentle- man, of the name 9f Miller, had left a good trade in Dun- dee to go to America, and had settled in the back woods among the savages; and yet he had come back to try to get his wife' to go out also; alleging that it was a bet- ter country than this ! y But,'' added he^ " I'm veiy well pleased where I am, and intend to remain in Dundee." On drawing towards our place, of destination, the road descends by a winding course of considerablQ extent, froiti whence there is a beautiful view of the Firth of Tay, which we crossed by a ferry nearly three miles broad, and immediately entered the town of Dundee, where I stopped for- the night. -.^t-r.-r^kriixntf^ Dundee is a large town, containing upwards of 26,000 inhabitants, who have extensive and well-organized manu- fectures of hemp, flax, and cotton ; particularly cotton- bag^g, sail-cbth^ oznaburgs, and coloured threads. It is one of the principal shipping ports in the east of Scot- land, and carries on a considerable trade to the Baltic, finom which the principal raw materials for the manu&ctures are drawn. i soon finiriied my business here, and returned to Cu- par. From thence I travelled to Auchtermouchty, about nkie miles to the westward, through a tolerably fertile country. Here also there are considerable linen manufac- tures* My business was soon finished at this place, and I immediately set out for Edinburgh. The only place of nctc that I passed^ was Falkland, once the residence of the kings of Scotland. The remains of the palace are still to be seen, but it is a miserable pile of building, hav- ing a room or two occupied as a carpenter's shop ; not- withstanding, it has a hereditary keeper, with a considera- ble salary! i Ofte of the beautiful Lomond hills rises immediately to the south of Falkland, and reaches an elevation of about 1200 feet. Seyen or eiffht miles to the vvei^ws^'d » the other) and thef& b a ccmtmued fidge betweeh theiti^ whibh affordd pasture for a great many sl^eep. The whble of the coutity of Fife abound* with coaI> kon, and other minerals. I reached Edinburgh in^ii# lul^g, and next day re- tttimed to Glasgow. ~;^> ki^^:1^>N^';b#f?*-||ft?^ *fe»#:*f r ■.iii-.*.j\- * i'?!!*-- i^J .«^f.*^ ?.)i/-^'-; V.V' ^0t*" ¥ 'ti^sl !:r#^^5t«^;#.'S':; iffi^ii..-, iKHiCi/f ™^ "H'rf^ili^ f^-m^^t '?irK?^k«f|il.. --j4-,. kM')^''lMmM^':^- U* viV- .%,*•-'*»«'*■%" sfi^jii ■«..*. f--*%v^ ,>jifci,y|s .,-^.M-*jtfc* ,<^v^c^j fiit^ :«lk^' ^8C0Tl«4«rQ. 335 r'l-tt^i "i's.-iJ'.JJ*. ;.■ ' 'Vi, K- £■('■■.' in:' -;' i- .*■■«'..;? w ■?^;.■.^^j... CHAPT^E L. ii.^ OUtsgcWy — Edinburgh^ — Mr, Fox's birth-day. 1 HE orders in council still continued their baleful ope. ration, and I was kept in a state of inactivity most uncon. genial to my established habits. But there was no help 2 '* the king willed it ;" and I was obliged to submit. Under this disagreeable feeling, I was glad to avail my* self of any active and rational amusement ; and two much, valued friends, one of them a merchant of Liverpool, hav- ing invited me to take a jaunt to Edinburgh, 1 accepted !t with pleasure; the more so, as T heard that the birth- day of Mr. YeojL. was to be celebrated within a few days. We left Glasgow on the 20th of January, 1809. Mr. Fox's bir^-day was celebiated, by the whig! party in Edinburgh, on the 24th. Being acquainted with several members of that illustrious body, I applied lor tickets for my Liverpod friend arid myself; and we joined the party accordingly. A Iriend^ who had assisted in arranging the mu^c, and whose place was to be opposite the band, that he .might ^ve the necessary instructions, obligingly ac- commodated us with seats beside himself; so that we were placed in a fevouraUe situation for observation. The company, nearly 200 in number, assembled at 6 o'clock. Mr. Maul, of Panmure, took the chair ; sir Harry Moncrieff was chaplain. The company generally, in point of respectability of character, liberality of senti- «,#-.' m # 336 TSAVBE.8 IN # ment, and brilliancy of intellect, ranked high among the living characters of the present day. What a blessing it would be for mankind, thought I, if the councils of states could be animated by the spirit, and actuated by the con. duct, of such men ! Btit^Fravidetnce has (no doubt for wise reasons, though inscrutable to us) ordered it other- wise, and we must submit, and hope for better days. The first toast, " The glorious and immortal memory of Charles James Fox," was drank in silence, and stand- ing. This was followed by a dirge fi'om the band of vo- cal music; after which we had the song of " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace blcdj*' foUouted by the, air to which Bums originally composed it, by the inimitable band of Natha- niel Gow; and so mournfully pathetic did they play it^ that it brought a plentiful shower of tears from the eyes of many of the company. ; juxir v> f ; ^^/n. , • MiEierjT toast was i followed by music, and never ^ did I hear music more elegant or better arranged^ Nathanid Gow, a soi^ of the celebrated Nid Gow, led the band,dnd, to use the :langu^ of my Liverpool friend, he " handled his elbolv in great style ;" and w^ well support^ by the other performers. ■ i ' ■:] y "■\^.-y.<-Ui<-h- 7f Th&tndtice of a few of tlie leading sentiments, with the mu&ic that followed, will set've to illustrate the spirit of the company:- ■■ . ■ ■ .."^_ a^aii'ir i-'tm^'^k^' Toast — -The whig psffty of ScodandM Toast — Whigs of England, -"urrii^ i: ni h^hiio ., Mufic—O the roast beef of Old England. , ^ •^ii^ToAST — Whigs of Ireland. ^'- 4 il/«*Mv-^Erin go bragh. , mit: ii!^?.5' UUOii # Oi', Am€5WGa,Kand jn»tke tp, foreign povi^.,^ . ■,j-0mi )lXjasL]^ not be iirproper J^ier© to show tlwiiJegpee pf esti*: ina$i(Ki»M whichjordj^^elyitt^^, W98^^ h^^ the whigs of ScQlJjUfiq. ,, • -^-^smimiit^y- ..-^v..^,.. ,, ..^f.jn' The^(Mc^p^ stal^d^. d^ he^hadjately perceived cer- t^il^aUuaiQns to his lordship in the ncwsp^^s,. supposed to J)e^pr^p«ra{oiy to the introduQtion of that nobleman to his m^jeslir's. councils ; he would therefore propose, as .|l^ May Ipini^ M^ville be exalted 9S^xiqe^^ to his merit. ,^ ^JOhooujUsippiayed^^^^^^^^ and this was JpUowe4 by.%S)atirical song, beginning iifer««i«fc « Tak ye tent, tny guid chicl, o* my bbnn^ Mark Spirott.** fBfifeeJeaving !&dinburgh, we heard the melancholy accent of the bi^tle. of Corunna, and the saicrifice of one of^lh^ xnojidi ga|ljil»t of Britantua's spns* w, John Mpore^^ A^^iQr.,wh»t?^^to support the indsependenc^ of Spain > and^For^gall say the British, ministry. To support th^: saine ministry in power^ and their adhei^ntsin]^Ge! says sober reaspn*,,^ * ► ^Ec^ weather w^ dreadfully col4>dunng our stay at Edinburgh, tlie thermometer being one day as low as 2°. On our way to Qlasgow, the snow was so deep, that, during a considerable part of the journey, we had^ji^^ horses in the carriage. ^m-^m^.;^^ 2 u- VOX. I, ^S9S TiAVSlit iir y»-' / 6HAPTfiR i^. .^Ubi^imm^ >-• ''f!-. Vburriej/ id Ireldra,^P&rt Patfv:k,^Bdfdsty^Dmdrum Bay, — Newry. ^A F£RIQD< was at last put to my state of inactivity. jQn thje 17th of July, as I walked along the sbneet, the carrier put a packet of letters into my hands, which., bore the po^maric of Castle- fTellan, in Ireland* On opening .Jt, I foiand it contained an invoice and bill of lading of a t cargo of cotton, shipfted by the JUucy Jiroi^n Savannah ; but ,^^e vessel was bound to Liverpool, and the^e was nothing .to explain why my letters should have been put ^ishore at l^lpastle-WeUan. I dreaded a shipwreck, and made^inune^ ;|diate preparations to go, to Ireland. .^.^i^. myf I left Glasgow by the niaii stagiti on tK« 19tfa,,^d^ t);a- I^Vell^g thromgh a tolerably fertile cQ^ntry about Tunnies, ^^passed, through a chain of barren^ hills, of no great hciglit, t, about 7 miles more. Eight miles beyond,|hi8 is Kilmar- l^iiocky and towards it the country is a little improved* • ^- Kilmarnock is a straggling, dirty, little carpet-manufac- tory ^place, which merits no other notice, tha|i as being doomed to inunortality by Robert Burns, fki Kilmarnock wabsters, fidge an' clawj An' psur your creeshie nations j All' ye'wha leather ra^w ttn* dnvr, Of ft' denominations > ■f ? "■■.•' :■[•••, < • * # *♦ SiOOTtAKD. 339 ■^»A 4 p jf^> >'Swith to the laigh kirk ane an* a*, ^>*'^-*» . .tuMTiiiiiiH An*, there tak up your stations/ j |yi,. ^ Then aff tc Bigbie*» in a raw, And pour divine libations For joy this day. We stopped at the said Bigbie's, and, for the humour of the thing, I called for a libation of porter; but there was no joy in the drinking of it — it was sour, stale, and spirit- less. Frdtti KilmalTiOck to Ayi^ i^ 12 itiiles : the t^d is v%iy gdod; but the country ii poor, although it certainly bears ah exceMeiit crop of " bonny lasses:" the \irbmen of Ayr- shire are beauttful. J '«^ On^enteting the tbwn of Ayr, every t^ng that! saw re- minded m6 of my fevourhe bard. The ** Dtlhgeoft Clock" and " Wallact Tower," the " twa steeples," could be seen at aMistaiire, and L passed by the "New Brig," where a little way up the stream I saw the " Atild Brig;" and the whole ficenery brought the extraordinary dialogue between the " Brigs of Ayr'* fresh to my recollection. Ajrr has ho numuiactiures for America, and Ihad not a moment t6,view the town ; so, procuring a chaise, I posted ^'night' tbivaids Port Patrick. The night was dark,*damp, ahddbmal; but my haste would brook no delays I hur- lii^ on: at midnight I was at Girvan, at daylight, at Bal- labtrae^ and, at 8 o'clock, i bi^eakfasted bn the east side of Loch Ryan. From thence the road passes through a poor, moory country to Fort Patrick, wluch I reached at one o'clock. • Here I was informed that the packet had not sailed for five days, such had been the- violence oi the weather; and that a number of passengers were in waiting, one of them 4 % 34h TllX^LS IN h gentf^maTrtPB^ abquamtftnce from Glasgow, *b. '^S fit 4^ 1.0 1.1 am in 12.0 ■ 1.8 1'-'' i^ U4 ^ 6" ► HiotogFa{M: Sciences Carporalion 23 WIST MAIN STRKT WnSnR,N.Y. 14SM (716)S72-4S09 4^ 4% 343 TRATBIiS IN impression was^ that we should sell oflNfaef whole cti tl^ spot, and the agent and I had an advertisement drawn up to that e&ct; but'this not meeting the approbation of my friends in Britain, nor the owners of the^other parts of the cargo, Ir reluctantly yielded up my opmion to theirs, and agreed to ship it to Liverpool: in consequence of jthis de- termination, I was detained eight weeks in Ireland* »>^^ ^ As our agent lived at Newry, I had frequent occadon to go tliere^ and I found him a most hospitable man, frank j friendly, and obliging'i The morning after my arrival he oairied me to the co£fee-house, where there was an animat- ed debate conaming a newspaper; and which subject, though ap]}arently trifling, actually mvolved ihs catho&e question. One of the subscribers, a very respectable mer- chantfin the place, was charged *with a breath t>f the r^les, hy abstracting the public papers for his own private use. The charge was foumled on the trivial circumstance, that the gentleman being confined to his bed by indisposition, his clerk wished to conununicate a piece of very interest- ing intelligence^ and carried away, with ieave of the bar- keeper, one of the papers which contained it, after the rpom waft; shut at: ni^t, wliich he returned beforeiit^was opened in ?the' morning. A common observer would have thought that there was really no harm- in this : itwas^ttlcu- lated to injtue nobody ; and if there was ai^ blame at all, it nested mth^ie dlerk, not^the employer^ But so did not one .of the subscribers'; think. He made^t the ground of f a«most serious charge^ in which he overlooked the clerk al- together, And fixed on the employer only. The matter was explained, and, as might have. 4ieen ezpectody the charge ^nas scouted by the good sense of the people. '* Why was it made?" mi^ be asked, with surprise, by those who do IBfeLAHlH sa » the wn up of my of the rs, and hbde- nflt know the management of regukr gauemmfnts^ The gentleman who made it was an officer under government, and 6 heresy hunter; his antagonist had the audacity to beaMomancathoHe* " ^ewry is situated 'On a river called Newry Water, at the head of Carlingford Bay, and enjoys a.very considerai ble commerce, especially in the Liverpool trade. The bay ia^ navigable for large vessels, to within a few miles of the town, and the navigation is thence continued for smaller vessels into the town by a canal, which: runs to Lough Neagh. ^ The. greater part of the town is low, and not veiy clean ; but part of it is on high ground, on wluch the church stands, with a low squat steeple. The country round is hilly, except to the north-west, where it spreads out into fine fertile plains. The peculiar configuration of the town and state of society in it, occasioned die following lines from the satirical pen of Dean Swift: t i.. %<^igh church, low steeple, mi^^^xmrn^ Dirty •treeta, and proud people. ^<, Whetiher «the people in general deserve the character^ I cannot say; but* those among whom I associated certainly did not. I found them frank, afiabk, polite, and friendly. > My bu»ness in Ireland proved much more troublesome than was originally anticipated, and I #as induced to go t& Belfiut to make some enquiry concerning it. From Newfy ta Bainblndge is 10 miles, through a tolerably good soil, in^roving towards the latter place, which is a siilaK town, surrounded by fine bleachfields, and has a go6d linen -market. Five milea beyond B^nbridge v^'passeA Dromore> the aeat of one of the Irish bishops ; an^ four mk TMmmuBmi inUeBiAtbm tbenoe we reaelMi'iHUlsbo^oughHinelf aittiated ih a^tich ond flourishing country^ and contatning about 100^ houses;' 'The church is an elegant 'boUdmg, #itha 4)S(^ Idfty^lrpiiP^ aikbi^ie' windowsMire- stained^^n imkaUon bf some of the English cathedialsj^.-^his is tlieiseat>of the Bonmsliii^fiimtly, one of the- most iivcalthy lit Ireland. Three miles beyond this is Lisbum, a thriving little t6Wn,iit^which cotton manufactories have been established t&a v^con^derabler^xtent r and «even miles from dience, through r^very elegant country, and highly cukivated,* is tfaetownof Belfest. '^ t ? ^ BELTASTfis situated at the head o&Bel£is^Lou^and is a handsome place, having extensive cotton and linen manufactories^ andu very considerable shifting ttrads^i I ^na detained here piiart 6f two days, and found the4nhabi- tiints very civil and oMigmg. Those, in partieulavi urith whom i had business, were uncommonly ^lentivei and 6ne gentleman^^ iii4iof was ti good ideid oonversant^ with die ntlode of ^mariaging'shi^wrecks and damaged cotton, agreed to psr^me^ risk 1ft Dundrum Bayi and giv^me^totbest advice. This matter being setded,^ ^^lietiifiied^ to»#l€Wfy. K:/We changed horSes at Bainbridge,^ the^ pkide whole I peirtod with my friend on niyr way to^^Dundnim Bay. l^e^ hostler,^ humorous-loolring^fellow, reiogmze^ me. *^ ^^c* not you the gentleman," said hcj* " thatrl got'#ie ohttse for 'the^t' still ;i mitAi^bi US hokiing ^ ^ooti *^ wli6 would hoVe expected it fhiiii ^tm good, generous-looking face ?" " By my shouij** «dd I, PMldy, (giving himateii-penny), ** if jrou faishmen don't make iHotiey, it Will not be for want of brats.'* ** Oeht dear, sure our tongues were never meant for the pocket,** said Paddy, shutling the door with a humorous smile, and we drove on* From Newry I returned, accompanied by my ftiend, to Dundhim Bay, where I had immense trouble with the eargo ; but this subject, though of gi^t importance to me, being of ho consequence to the reader, I shall pass it over^ and notice a fe on resuming his seat, observed, '* It cheats me, if there be not a rat caught in the trap before morning :" and so there was. On going to the beaoh in the nnomii^, there, high and dry, the Lucy lay ; and another vessel, about a mile to the westward*^ The captain and supercargo, who were almost dead fnth fatigue, were taken to the house^ and hospitably en- 'tertained; and measures were taken to secure the wreck. In Uie evening there was a whist party, and the .old man, .'^iSeeing the captain look very pitiful and dejected, advised .'Jiim to take a hand at whist, to cheer his spirits. The f.v '^ ITBiii^iii,' 347 ciplain was peipauiided;vbut somettung dse than whist was uppermost in his mind, and he could hardly keep lumself awake while he played two or three games veiy badly. He relinquished the game, and went to bed, in the same room where the landlord slept. The landlord did not go to bed for some hours after, when, awakening the captain with some difficulty, the latter started up with a halloa^ calling out, '< What's the matter ?*' *' O faiths the mat- ter's no great, dear," said the landlord. >* I only wanted to tell you that you're a d-^ bad hand at whist, and by J— 4f you shall never be a partner of mine again, for I lost two ten-pennies by you." He was a very early riser, and generally came to my room in the morning to wake m^; when he would enter- ta^^tne with a thousand witty sayings. Sometimes he would descant on the beauties of the creation, the bright^ nes^tif the sun, the healthy sea-breeze, the riang plants, and the singing of the birds. At other times he would remark, that the air was *' as thick as butter-milk," or dtot he ooukl cut it with a knife; on which occaiuons he would say^ '^ You had better lie still, and take another alefep,dear." We were introduced to a number of the &mi]ies round ; among others^ to the doctor of the place, who was a man of 'talents, and esteemed one. of the greatest wits in all the country. At a visiting party, our supercargo and the doctor entered into a punning conversation; but the sun percargo was no match for the doctor at this kind of dis- course. He \eA been amusing the company with a num- ber of -tales Qonceming the wonderful size of some of the animals in America ; amongst others, the well-known story of the amazing lar^ musquetoea that bit general 948 TU^lfEiS IN Washington thpough the boots*. A« an ofitet, the doc. toe tokl an eqijal number of taka about tb^ wonMul ani. mflU in JitbmAf meeting the supercaigo in eycfy point, ^jnoept iHm mufiquetoea. ** WeU," sai4 the ^upercargo^ t^umpbanlljr^ *^ you must ackno\^le4ge that oht fie^ are kwEgor than yours.'* ^* Yes, faith,'^ orie4 the doctor, ** I'll ^knowledge it with nil my hefut, if.you-U only take:^way the/from tliepi." k. .-. ij Several lin^n mcrchauM^ were in tl^e neigbbourhood, who gave me the history of the linen trade jof Ireland, an4 $tated that the stoppage of the Ameriam tmde was ruining tlieir. business. One of them had recently returned fiipm Rio Janeiro, wfaene he had been, vvith a eargo of hnena, to the vahie of nearly £. 60,000 sterling, temf^ by the flatr tering accounts lield out by the supporters^f i^ ministry. He returned ^th a most deplorable tale* He m^ npt able to sell ^bovf qn^e third, at a loss of )30 per cent, mi he could only get a. precarious prpdujce for return, by ^vhich he anticipated a loss of fyQfa 10 to 20 per qent. moie. The remainder of the goods h^ w^s, pblig^.lo consign into other hands, and leavie ^ place. His lotn altogether, he supposed, would be fully one half; apd he said that almosit every otl>er sort pf goqds w^ subject to, « 'shwlir depreciation* Goods wei9e pouring in ironi all qvtaBler8^ir^lA»)d$»,JLivei^ Qlnsgpw, Mfnoheat^^ Bk. nwigham, fhieffield* ^c ; and so badiy ii^orn^ed were the peop4e. in iSO](n^:pkces, that many artidesysent were ajtoge?, ther unauitdble; for, the marj^Let; prion gra$(^,Jeiidera»to^^ i»o»Si warmingrpans, and skat^ wei^ ^^ifoitfd tp the Sra2ttls»i8ulcthj? prince regent ai¥as,;9\if ^i^jigust 9flj^,mi ife'- ! : i:iii :?* f 3ee Weld's Travels. imBLAMD* 349 dec* il ani* point, aMTgo, et are M ru rhood, d,an4 iiining eos, to heflatr traif mA It, mi It: qent. M I099 ironi all qr* Bkr top tp the thflfefoM tiMt country muil be a fine market for rU aoitt of iimmiBsMistiire^ ** Only look at the map," the ministe- naliola would exukngly exclaim ; ** only lopk^at the mapv fBi4 fee the lunasing extent of the country 1 how rich! how Qnely y^ten^ I Aa^ then the gold mines that it abounds, with ; and the npble Portuguese who inhabit it, our friends* apd pur beloved allies. Here's a field for our surplus ma*- nufiict\|res to the latest posterity ; let us avail ourselves of it, and kick thi|t blackguard Yankee trade to the devil!" H ^nien," fiud John Bull; and, overlooking the trifling ^iPCumstQnce, ,|hat it was inhabited by only ha{fa miiiion f(f people^ and the^ the most poor, pitiful, bigotted, priest* fidden. devils under the sun, he did email himself of it, fin4 can now aafculate the value of the avail! . My ^end came from: Bel&st, according to promise, and brought twp or three cotton spinners along with him. They looked at the cotton, and, giving their best advice,^ invked me to convoy them as fiir as Ballynahinch. Here yft were met by our agent from Newry, and spent a very happy evening together. I got an account of the batde of Ballynahinch, and of the present state of Ireland, and neT?' inonung set out on my return to Dundrum, distant n^ •' miles. There waa neither horse nor cliaise to be hired here; so I was obliged to walk. Learning that there were some nedicinal springs by the way, I went about two miles iMKof the direct road to mit them. Before I had got that length, a veiy severe rain came on, and I was glad to take shdter in a litde wretched cabin beside the springs. The old woman was kind to an ercess, brought me a dram of whisky, and regretted that the accommodation was so poor. After I had warmed and dried myself a 850 TBAVBL8 IN little, she looked out, and pitmounced liiit it ^ffduld min all day. She then asked, whether' I had ever heard of Mr. Fox, and^ upon beings answered in the affirmative, she put a few move questions, to learn whether I iqpproived of Mr. Fox*» sentiments. I could not divine the meaning of this, and was pondering the subjeet in my mind, when a young boy in livery called at the houae, and told me the counaellor sent his compliments, and requested I would call upon him, as he ii^shed to see me. I was Surprised, and was going to ask the old woman who the oounadlor was ; but she sealed my lips by teUmg me, just to isliep up to the counsellor's, and 'it would be all explained^ to me. I obeyed, and followed the messenger. *' And who is the counsellor, my young fellow?'' said I, as wewalktid towards the houi^. ^ Me is counsellor Tfoherj shr^'^ said the boy. '^ <* What," said I, <* the same that was private secretary to Mr. Fox ?" " Yes," said the boy. This iiccounted for the conduct of the old woman ; and I shall ever remember her with gratitude for being the means of introducing me to the bosom friend and biographer of Charles James Fox, "■''' The counsellor and I soon got intimately acquunted. I answered all his questions concerning America, and he gSLvt me a great deal of information regarding Mr, Fox's private life, including an account of hiis jouiliey to France, in which. Mr. Trotter accompanied him, and of his death, at whidh he was present. I was delighted with his conversation, and the day, as if determined to prolong it, continuing Very stormy, I availed myself of his hospi- table offer, and staid all night. Next morning eariy, I set out for Dundrum, ^iRBLAmM 351 Dunng my stay at this place, I veoeived letters announ* cing the airival of one of itoy portners from Savannah, and stating that I must hold myself in readiness to return to America. I was siok of my present situation, And longed to be home; ao, inviting my partner to come and take charge of the cargo, I. continued shipping it to Liverpool with all possible dispatch. My partner arrived just as we were 8hi^|>ing the last of the cargo ; and I consigned the re- maining business to his charge, and made the best of mf way to Glasgow. He attended the cargo to Liverpool* where it found a market at little more than what was suf- ficient, to pay the expences. Had it arrived safe, it would have yielded a ct^ar profit of £. 7000. Such are some of the turns of fate ! There was not one penny of insurance upon it, nor the power of making it. The first account that I received of it was by the before-mentioned lettq^ from Castle WeUan. I '- , ..'. ua TBAVBU m ^ 1^. v.. -m^' ,,Ul * CHAPTBR UDt. Return to Olasgaw, ApHIL 20th. Having completed the shipment, I jkirted lh>m my hospitable entertainers with sentiments of friertdly regard, and set out on my return to Glasgow, taking Strangford in my way, in order to clear out the tessels at the custom-house ; and I was accompanied by my agreeable friend, the agent at Newry. We passed tt^ugh Down Patrick, die capital of Downshire, a pretty large town, but not handsome ; though it is situated in a fer. tile country, and carries on a considerable trade. On our arrival at Strangford, the deputy collector exe- cuted our business with great despatch, and very much like a gentleman, which is a compliment that I cannot pay to all his majesty's servants in Ireland, with whom I had to deal. If I were inclined to be ill-natured here, I could give a great big thrashing to a certain gentleman, that lives not 100 miles from the foot of Mome Mountains, who thinks '* he has a right to make the most of his situation on the coast ;" and seems to be of opinion, that he is jus* tifiable in adopting any means in the exercise of that right ; but I am now in a hurry to be at Glasgow, and shall pass over his conduct. We crossed over to Porto-ferry, betwixt which and Strangford the tide runs with a velocity that I have never jet seen equiUled. We dined at Porto-ferrj', after which the agei regard. From partly al soil in m pled froi comcider of the cJ the mom looksi be paasage i In the] tions I no of the coi Donaghad my perwn to travel al I was satis ehauey but with as mi was, infac inhabitants rived at P very dear, distance of At Port ^vas travelli pearance, companion. morning, a pretty rugg views, whi< VOL. r. ititiLimf 1m the agent and I parted ivith many professions of sincere regard. From Porto-lfeny to Donaghadee is about 16 miles, partly along the coast. The country is pretty, but the soil in many places is poor. This district was mostly peo^ pled fix)m Scotland, and I could observe a remarkable comcidence in dialect between the people on both sides of the channel. I reached Donaghadee at 10 o'clock in the morning ; and a number of vessels, loaded with bul- kxsksj being about to sail for Port Patrick, I engaged tt passage in one of them, to sail at 2 o'clock. In the mean time, I could not help contrasdng the senia- tions I now had regarding Ireland, with those I entertained of the country before I saw it. I noticed, on landing at Donaghadee, that ** I had considerable apprehensions for my personal safety, and nothing could Imvc induced iiii to travel alone at night in a post-chaise." Now, however^ I was satisfied that I could not only travel alone in SLpost- . ehaiiet but that I could travel in any way, and at all hours^ with as much safety as I could in any part of Britain. I was, in fact, highly pleased both with the country; and th||ii|^ inhabitants. — ^The vessel set sail in the afternoon,' and ar- rived at Port Patrick about sundown. The evening was: very clear, and I could see the Mome Mountains, at the distance of 50 miles. At Port Patrick I met with an Irish gentleman, who \vas travelling to Glasgow, and, being pleased with his ap- pearance, I was very glad to have him for a travelling companion. We started by the stagikat 6 o'clock in the morning, and travelled along the coast, which we found pretty rugged, hilly, and barren ; but abounding in fine views, which were seen to great advantage, the day being m VOL. T> 2 V 354 TRAVELS IK remarkably clear. At one place, on the top of a hill, we could see the whole north channel ; the coasts of Ireland and Scotland ; the islands of Arran, Bute, apd Ailsa ; and I could also distinctly perceive the Mome Moun. tains, although we were now upwards of 80 miles distant. In the course of our journey, I discovered that my tra- velling companion had a fine taste for music, and being provided with an excellent flute, in his travelling cane, he entertained mi^ with a greater number of Irish tunes than I had cyer heard before. , , w ; When we drew near Ayr, we left the coach and crow- ed over the country about half a mile to the old road* to see th

y tra- being anpt he es than ■\ • I I crg^- :oa4> to a lowly latohed. al floor, i^e all- "Alio, the end whiph Folly. t3 of the an em- o^vn^^. it bemg. jreed to rocuredy <« CHAPTER Lm. •■/ Glasgow^ — Edinburgh,— Uverpooly — Manchester,-'^ * Leeds, — JStottingham, — London. Soon ^ my .^tum from Ii^Umd, I was highly gn.ti: fied with the account of Mr. Erskine's arrangement with the United States, and the removal of the non-intercourse; which was followed by a removal of the onlers in council in Britain. But the hope induced by these circuimtances ^m& of short duration. Two days had not elapsed, before meetings of the shipping interest were held, and the minis- tiy were assailed with most deplorable tales concerning the loss of their trade. One set of them had the audacity, in- deed, lo set up the plea, that if the Americans were allowed a- free trade, it would deprive the British shipping interest of the carrying trade to Holland. To Holland! Yes, to HoQdnd! a country with which the nation was at war, and to trade Math which, was declared to be high treason by thelawisof the land! A cabitiet council was held, at which it is said Mr. Can* 'liingi the secretary for foreign aiffairs, took a most active part, and strenuously supported the principle that Mr. Ers- kine's arrangement should be ratified; but a certain elevat- ed personage took umbrage at some expressions in the papers, and would not agree ! and the orders in council were re-enacted in a new form, called a blockade. Thus were the vahiable manufectures of the country sacrificed to the 356 TRAVELS IN whim of an individual, and the mercantile cupidity of a shipping interest. The public will be able to form a pretty correct judg- ment, as to what degree of knowledge in political economy, was possessed by the men to whom was confided the ma- nagement of the affairs of a great commercial nation, by adverting to the following facts. . It was estimated by Mr. Pitt, that the pro- fits of the nation arising from manufac- . tures amounted to From the merchant shipping and small , craft , .^The hands employed in manu&ctures were L, estimated at Seamen m the merchant service at The income arising fi-om manufactures de- % stined for the United States The hands employed in manufactures for ft the United States And I presume that the hands employed in , the whole trade with tlie enemies of the ^.^ country, do not exceedf^^^^^ . . And yet a fair, honourable, and safe trade, to a great extent, with a friendly neutral, has been sacrificed, to a poor, pitiful, limited, dishonourable, and precarious com- merce, subject totlie regulation of the arch-enemy of the country. Could that enemy have managed the matter with more advantage to his views? ^ I now calculated that the American trade was at an end, and immediately decided to set out for that countiy to in- quire into the state of our property there, and make the best arrangement regarding it, ^t circumstances might £. 14,100,000 ;f. 1,000*000 1,680,000 155,000 £* 7,000,000 675,000 20,000 ENGtiAKIX. 357 of a judg. lomy, e ma- n, by point out. Before t^ing my passage for America, it wa9 necessary to make a very extended tour in Britain ; and though it was so rapid, as to be almost barren of inci- dent or observation, yet I shall state the outlines, so as to continue the chain of connection with the other parts of these travels. I set out from Glasgow on the 1st of August, 1809, and travelled by the coach to Edinbuigh. From thence I crossed the Forth to Kirkaldy, Cupar, and Dundee, and returrted to Edinburgh. On the 6th, I kft Edinburgh, in the maSl coach, for Carlisle. We passed through Dalkeith, Selkirk, and Lang- holm. A great part of the journey was in the night, and the weather was very ndny. The soil appeared pretty good to Dalkeith, which is a handsome little town, nine nule^ from Edinburgh, with the seat of the duke of BuccleugU in the neighbourhood. The soil continues good a consi- derable way beyond Dalkeith, after which the country is poor and hilly ; but it answers well for pasture, and the peo- ple keep large flocks of sheep. I reached Carlisle at 6 o'clock, and continued my jour^ ney to Liverpool, where I arrived at 3 o'clock next morn- ing. In the afternoon I left Liverpool for Manchester, and continued my journey to Halifax and Leeds, and thence through a fertile country eight miles, to Wakefield, a neat town, having extensive manufactures of woollens, particu- larly jft/j^. From Wakefield to Sheffield is 24 miles, through a rich, well-cuitivated country; and at Sheffield are the greatest manu&ctories of edge-tods in England. The master-cut- Jers are here 600 in number, and the quantity and varietj' » rt'. fii SJ^ TRAVELS IN of work that Is produced is immense. America is a greatt alid important market for Sheffield goods. ' On the morning of the 15di of August, at one o'clock, I left Sheffield for Nottingham, distant 38 niiles. Of tbe country, I could see nothing till I was near Nottingham, and there it is fertile, and well improved. f Nottingfaiim is situated on the steep ascent of a rock, overlooking the river Trent, and a vast range of adjoining meadows. It is a larg^, populous, and pretty handsome town, having the streets well paved, and a good market- place. It is a principal seat of the manufacture of citTtfton and silk hosier}', and lace; and sends annually a vast quan- tity of goods to America. There is a castle situated on a high part of the eminence, which has a fine efiect when viewed at a distance. I' Here I took a passage by the mail coach for London; and setting out at nine o'clock in the morning, we passed through Norman, Melton, Mowbray, Oakham, Upping- ham, Rockingham, Harborough, Kettering, Wellingbo- rough, Harold, Bedford, Shelfdrd, Hitchin, Hatfield, Bar- net, and Highgate, and reached London, distant from Not- tingham 124 miles, at 5 o'clock next morning. My business inXiondon was soon settled; and I devoted a day to see my friends; but I was too much hurried to go to any of the public places with which the city abounds, except Vauxhall Gardens. This place is considered d great curiosity, and in all my former visits to London, I had ne- ver had an opportunity of seeing it. I had been out df town dining with a fnendj and hurried to the London coflee-hiuse to go to the gardens. Ju^ as I arrived, I found a Scots- man from Geor^a at his glass of wine. He invited me to partake of it, but I declined it, telling him that I was in a ENGLANOi. 359 hurr/ to go to V^uxhall; he finished his wine and agreed to accompany me. It was the duke of York's birth-night, he told me, and there would be some extra amusements. As we travelled towards the gardens, I perceived that my friend had taken a glass too much, and it began to operate pretty vehemently to the prejudice of tlie English people I did not regard this when by ourselves^ but I admonish- ed him to be more circumspect in his conduct and expres- sions when we should reach the garden; which he readily assented to. ,> ., On our arrival, I was delighted with the vast variety and brilliancy of the lamps, and the immense concourse of people. An orchestra was in the middle, and we bad soine vocal and instrumental music ; but as I never admir-. ed English music, I pass it over^ In a short time my friend proposed an adjournment to a tent, where we might have something to drink. He called for a bowl of arrack punch, and seeing some company pass, he invited two of ijaem to take seats beside us, and a share of our fare. While we were thus situated, the fire- works were an* nounced, and wishing to see the whole economy of these gardens, I went to view them. They were splendid. Qn. my return, I found my friend had got a second bowl of arrack ; and, observing two or three men in the high- land dress, he invited them to join us, and ordered a third bowl. While we were thus engaged, a band of music, over head, struck up Bothemur chiefs Ranty and a ring be- ing formed among the spectators, a number of gentlemen and i^(/i>£ danced Scots reels. This gave my friend, who was a great Scotsman^ fresh animation, and he began to flouri^ away and draw comparisons between his countr}'- linen and th^ English, that I did not at all like, ^d proposed ,# 3^ 'i;BAyfiLB jN that we should immediately go home. Having assented to thi$, I left him to adjust and setde the bill, while I went to see the water-works. On my return, I found him em« broiled with some of the natives, whom he was denouncing as a set of taUors; and the, bill w^sjstill unsettled. I in- stantly paid it, and looked round for my friend — but he was gone. On making inquiry for him of. the bystanders, I was told that he had been committed to the watch-house ; and it was with great difEculty that I escaped being im- plicated as an accomplice. Having, with considerable ad- dress, cleared myself from the imputation, I at ]ast')pre- vailed with some of his antagonists to conduct me to the ivBtch-house, where I found my friend eaged upy and de- claiming against the English widi most dreadful vocifera- tion. . After several hours' trouble, in the dead of night, widi watchmen,, constables^ Bow-street runners, &c./&c. I at last succeeded in getting him out oi durance vtV^p, and we made. the best of our way to the London coffee-house, which we reached at 3 o'clock in the morning; and here I made a vow that I would never af^ accompany a Soots- man to Vauxhall gardens, unless I previously knew that he had so far divested himself of national prejudice^ as to pay an equal respect to Englishmen as to those of his own country. . # ■" ■ , ' ' ' ■ ' ■ ■ ' ■ - t. # BltttLAllfl. 361 *^fm-v \,){>»5,' ;> CHAPTER LIV. ,A Liverpool. ,,ij.'.vf»-' ItLEFT London on the evening 6f thb 18th of August, bftfae mail ooachy and, tiaveUing all night, passed tfaroiigh UoBbridge, Stockton, and Oxford, whore » die celebrated Ufuveisity ;. but I could see nothing of it at the hoar y^ posted. We continued our course tbrough Woodstock^ Shiptoil, iUid Stnatlbrd; and at 10 oPdock on the 19di in atfnved at Birmihgham, distant frbm London 116 miles;' ^fitfRKiNoifAM is situalied m the niddke of a ficrtileand popuknis cooi^,atiA is^in poihtof p6pubition,the fourth tarni in £ng^aiRi^ ite inhabitants amoui^Ltingi to 73,67(X Fort of the town lies low, and the housea' ave meah and un- aghdjr^butaconsideiafok portion, is elevated, and abounds with faandsame houses* The ftonlware manu&ctures of BnmiinglKMlii are unnvalled, and vast quantities of good% oC aiidiescfiptiora, have been made up annually, for the Amaacan market. The works: of Bolton and Watt are at Soho, in ^tt&^Aftighbourhood^ and are in a state of Qigani» zation probably superior to any other in the worid. It is Cilculal6i that^ ^noe the introduction of their improved Steam en^ne, the labour saved by it alone, in Blitaih^ amounlBto 20 millions steriing annusdly. '^( The trade of Birmingham is gready iaciiitated by canal navigation, which is here very complete ; affording a water VOL. I. 2 z 902^ TISAyBLS IN communicution to London, Hull, Liverpool, and Bristol, and throughout the whole interior of the country. From Birmingham I travelled to Shrewsbury, in company with a Mr. James, a civil engineer, who resides in Warwick- shire, and as the country througbwhio^ we passed abound- ed with mines of coal, iron, and beds of limestone, I derived a good deal of information from him. He stated diaf .le yearly income arising from the mines, in the counties o£ Warwick and Stafford, was incredible, and the number of : hands employed in the boweldiiide- pendlstnce qu&tejdiffbwnt (from >tlie svorkmen in the mimu- faduring) tawiDA.r ;cl found' this 'gehtanan's oompenjr ypty agreeable^; iiii a Joum^ together of 46 ^liies, wheni we^wr- Jiiveidlnat rShrewsbiicy* ■.>M r^!j/S)»rix1v»Bi^R'T.is''sitaated op th6vi^er:iSevetn,<9nd is a jplaoei Kif considerable tnide,. but the stress airiiain>lw,i and kheacihibAts^ lio very handsbme appeai'anGe.^; Bei^iin att :oft thti pdimties. adjoimng Wal^s,> itjis welliealeullited fiv theiwoolfc^ltrade, and d) con^derable' portuMiiof its fmanil- fhotmes are calculated fot the Amehoari ii»slteti(t]artictillar^ pflalns adld flannels. <- i'.u, ■, "u -it ^'n^^r^p; vtr!i-.d<'^t4rf nnHr." b ) On- Monday, the 81^ , of August^ X l^i Shifewsbilry /Itii^y^io'clock, by the stage, and pc|sse4 ^^O^gfa £lles>- mercj and Wrexham, to Chesierv at which we dinedk Here |:hadMsuee totakeArwalkiTQund the eity^ along the top •'9tr^».' /: ^n-ir'.jtli; : shjlqnioD \ ' ^•j.'»if>l rtbrci/rv «^rta^*'f^ '- - .'•-■-■ s -g . -^; •-■' ttNR V'lBHOljAlfD. 363 ndiga I? :^J?/fc^ of the wall with whi6h it is surrounded, frcim whence there is a fine view. Some of the chief streets are singular in their construction, being cut out of a rock, below the level • of the ground ; and the houses have a portico in fWmts^ which serves for a covered foot-path. The shops and< warehouses are in the sides of the rock, and on a leveK' with the street, to which there is occasionallj an ascent by stairs. Chester is the residence of a number of people fioni Wales, with which country it carries on a considera- ble tra^. Its population amounts to about 15,000. 9 From Chester I continued my journey 12 miles^ through an agreeable^ open country^ and passing, the* Mersey, by a fenry^boat, I arrived in Liverpool at six o'clock in the evening. . ^, hoc From the 22d of August to the 3d of September, I was busily employed in Liverpool, makuig preparations for my embarkation to America. During this period I had.a little time for reflection on the situation of Engkind and America ; and every thing seemed to portend most important consequences. The British administration ap- peared determined to adhere to the new system of block- ade ;, and they were backed by the whole power and in* flpenoe of the tory party, including the shipping interest^ the monied interest, and all the placemen and pensioners. i%tl](e«ountry* Their opponents of the whig party, though ^1^ to their princip^s, were feeble and dispirited ; and thus, secure in power and influence, and having a very slender opposition, it was not reasonably to be expected _ that tbey would abandon a measure which formed a Qiost important part olf their system of policy. On the other hand, X was well convinced that the American government woul^ set upi and persevere in a resistance of some kind, ■I ; af4 ,4.^TB4y,aV9 OH ::^ whii^ these ofdon continued. Ffom a view of tlM recent laeamres of that country, indeed, h was impossible tolbrm an opinion what this resistance would be ; but I was well aware, upon the whole, that the consequences resulting firom the interruptions of conuaeroe, would tend much to weaken the connection between the two countries, and that America would every day become more independent of Britain* .Hi .f^ e^'t ^t ^ ' f,^ 4i^ ■-.-:^ • -' ■^•'^- •^ ■ "■yd : THE inXAMTIO IICEAM« s#s sent bm Iting ^to I that ^ I J m |.- Mr-- vjNI^i! ■»(' ■ •> ^' ,jagigg^^,,i..r<» u i ii i |)imrr i i .- 1 . ■ CRAFTEIt LT. tAverpooly — ^^aiii(-« of Newfiuhdkmdy — New York, Jl AVING finished my business in Liverpool, I engaged a pasaiige for myself and son by the Pacific, captain Staun* ton, for New York. The other passengers were two merchants of New York ; two Yorkshire merchants; a Liverpool merchant, who calU ed himself 9Xi American citizen ; and a merchant of Savan- nah in Georgia. We had ^so the captain and two mates of the ship Manhattan, which had been sold in Liverpool. The passengers had agreed to rendezvous at the King's Arms tavern on the evening before the vessel sailed, at 10 o'ddck, to go on board together, as she was to weigh an- chor very early in the morning. I had to step out of town a litde way to transact some business with a friend, and; the night being dark and wet, it was a little pest the ifipointed hpur before we got to the place of rendezvous. The company were gone, and we had to trudge through lavtrpool in quest of a boat, but none was to be found. It was quite dark and rainy ; and wet, perpleted, and dis- appointed, we were landed in a small ale-house, on t>neof the wharfs, at 1 o'clock in the morning. The landlord livas t good-natured man, and used every effixt to get us on board, but without e£fect; and I really began to be ap- {Hehen^ve that we would lose our passage. At tength aa Irish sailor came in from a neighbouring vessel tc get S66 .ilASTBAVBLt ON a pint of ale, and the landlord whiapeted to me, that if I spoke him fair^ perhaps he could get roe on board. I thought the fairest way of speaking him would be to use his own style, and assumed the character of a countryman in distress, which produced an immediate eflfect on paddy's feelings, and he told me if Morgan would go, he woukL He called Morgan, who, with considerable reluctance, complied. The next difficulty was to find the vessel, for it was nearly as daiic as pitch, and we had to go about three miles up the river. I did not wish to talk much, for fcur that my speech ** would bewray me," and, as good luck would have it, I did not need, for. the veiy first ship we hailed was the Pacific. I paid the Irishmen for their trouble, and we went on board. As they wei^e starting from the vessel, I heard one say, '* Faith, Pat, I believe he is a Scotsman alter all" ** Well, well, it does not signify," says the other, ** what he is; he has dpne fhe faif thing by us, any how," " Tpt,f ' S9i4 I, *< are we not all relations ?" •■^T f' ,'l- •)«''■■ •t'"''^- Sterne. '■rt- '.>] ' %■ ■■ ^On the morning of the Sd of September, the ship got under weigh, at S o'clock, and ^ wind being fiur, we were round the rock by 5 ; and at 6, discharged the pilots The breeze continued from the north-east, and we had a' line run. At 7 o'clock, we were up.with the point of Ayr; at 10, at Great Ormshead ; at 12 we passed Skerries-light^^ and shaped our course to the south-west, through St* Qeorge's channel. A vast number of ships came out of the river along with us, but we had lost sight of themiall, except the John Bull, a fine English ship; she kept iny sight oi Pacific I We I .« aeries which ti The wii till the ] it contin almost ii well by t d4th, wi land. H before ot had a fin wil,aQdi I9ite^ ci Theimpi hertbroui idialiMio^ hlpwiiig; whei!e][J)e< accompani nin«»iByt ,&>u]hU^. which, the SQWnd^b *e scfuth; fprmei; pas: ^se banks ttt% the north-west, arid it continued to cAo^ roimtf fh>m south-west to north-west, almost inoeasantly ; mate and good sailors, and every thing on board the vessel was conducted with great propriety. The cabin was remarkably well furnished, and we fared sumptuously (dl the way. .,^*»*ff^^^, *,.... ^, .^^vt,— ,-#f Having crossed the bar, we proceeded up the cliannel widi a light but fair breeze, and at 5 o'clock passed the Narrows, and stood in for the quarantine ground. Here we were visited by Lang and Turner, editors of the New York Gazette, who, by their indefatigable attention to the shipping trade of tlie port of New York, have deserved well of their countr}', and have been amply rewarded by a very^respectable patronage and support to their paper. VOL. I. 3 a t I 370 TSJiVELS IN ' Connected with this establishment is that of the Mer- cantile Advertiser, the editors of which pay one half of the expence of procuring the shipping intelligence, and, of course, receive the same information as the Gazette ; and so attentive are the parties to the business, that Mr. Lang has a house at the quarantine ground, where he resides with his family during the summer, and speaks every ves- sel that comes into port. By this means the shipping intel- ligence in these two papers is early and authentic, and they are the most respectable mercantile registers in New York. :': We were only a few minutes here when the health offi- cer came on board, who, finding all well, gave us a bill of health, and we set sail up the bay, and landed at th^ wharf at 8 o'clock. I immediately waited upon my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Stewart, from yfhom I had, as before, a friendly welcome. - ?:*4l^li::.*)! f' PENXSTLTANtA. 371 CHAPTER LVL AVw KorA:, — Philadelphiaf — Savannah, I CONTINUED in New York until the 11th of No- vember, when, having some business to attend to in Phi- ladelphia, I set out for that city by the mail stage. We left New York at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, and next morning, at 5 o'clock, we reached Philadelphia, distant 97 miles. My business here was in friendly hands, and I got i6 arranged to my satisfaction in a short time, when I had a few days to spend with my friends. At the house where I lodged, a gentleman sometimes called to spend the evenings. . My friend and he were two of the most extensive and respectable merchants in Philadelphia, and^ like myself, both were concerned in the British trade* ^ We agreed in opinion as to the utility of this trade, butt we differed regarding the cause of its interruption. I at- tributed it to what I considered the true cause, which will be readily inferred from the foregoing pages; but my friends were inclined to attribute it to the hostility of the democratic party in America to foreign commerce. Con- sidering this idea incorrect, I opposed it, which led to a pretty long discussion, in which I had occasion to state the view I took of foreign commerce generally, and the importance of the relations between America and Britain. My friends j^ssentcd to the correctness of my opinion, but ■m • *• 0: 372 TRAVELS III insisted that it was so opposite to that of the democratic party, that, were I to draw it up, and send it to a demo- cratic newspaper, it would not be inserted. Considering this a very good plan to bring the matter to the test, I drew up an essay, which received their approbation. If was sent to the Aurora^ and two days thereafter, made its appearance in that paper*. i*wi i While I staid at Philadelphia, the negociations with the British miniBter, Mr. Jackson, were broken off, and it dearly appeared to me, that nothing but the ascendancy of the whig party in Britain would prevent a war ; but from the intelligence which I received from Britain, public and private, I thought it extremely probable that this as- cendancy would soon take place ; at any rate, I considered it would inevitably follow the appointment of the-princc of Wales as regent, and that event ^vas daily expected. I was guided by thb view in my commercial arrange- ments, and took my measures accordingly. 't: From Philadelphia I returned to New York, and from ^thence went by sea to Savannah, where I arrived on the 17th of December, without meeting any adventure wortli ^recording. On my arrival in Savannah, I found matters in a dread* ful state. The stock of goods was disassorted, and would not bring half the original value ; and the other funds, consisting chiefly of outstanding debts, if ever they would be collected at all, it could only be done at a labour, ex- pence, and loss of time, that would probably be greater than the ultimate value of them. A great many of them were ui suit, and the courts of kiw were suspended, so * S9e Appendix) No. IV. #^ GEORGIA. 373 Kiratic demo- dering test, 1 m. It ade its that the recovery by that process was very tedious and uncertain. Our debtors amounted to the amazing num- ber of 185, and they were so scattered over the land, that they occupied a space of nearly 200 miles square. Some landed property belonged to the concern, and some ne« groes (a species of commodity which I never wished to deal in), and these had fallen in value. We had also a store, 220 miles in the interior of the country; but it held out no better, prospect : while our American debts were large and urgent, a great portion of them custom-house bonds. I was absolutely sickened when I looked into the books, where I had nothing to contemplate but the wrecks of a ruined estate, and the fragments of it scattered to and fro Uiroughout the land ; so that no time could be fixed for > its being eventually wound up. However, there was nothing for it but to arm myself with resolution, and, after three months most ardent application, I got it reduced to some sort of order, and, having made a new arrange- ment with my partner to carry on a commission business, while the old concern was winding up, I set out on a £o/- lecting toury taking in my way the store up the country. A few of the observations which I made on my journey shaU be commumcated in the next chapter. 4 'mm- "'3:- £ M'.,*:,,- ::."■";.:'- V-5S-' .'"?'- "Sti 'H^^V JS' ■^■<«¥f ' r: 374 TRAVELS IN n It in -^"^ . -m (.V'-'-*^ -r^— ■■4-«fei%- :^. CHAPTER LVII. ^^s»^ 4j • / Savannah^ — Lomsvilley—Grcensburg^ — Augusta, On the 2d of April I left Savannah, on horseback, at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. A young gentleman in a chair accompanied me, and we took the road to Louisville. The weather was Avarm and sultry. We travelled 18 miles through a low marshy country, abounding in thick woods, but having a thin population, to PoweWs, and here we stopped for the night. About 11 o'clock, there was a tlvmder-gust to the south-east ; the wmd shifted to the north-west, and the weather became suddenly cold. ^ April 3d, we travelled through a wretched looking country 12 miles, to breakfast ; and 12 miles further to dinner, part of the way through pine barrens. The coun- try was now a little more elevated, but the soil poor and sandy, and so continued 20 miles, to Jones\ where wc stopped for the night. Jones has a thriving plantation^ and a fine peach orchiird. • April 4th, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that we passed yesterday, 14 miles, when, entering Burke county, we met with more improvements, and saw many fine peach orchards; and the trees being in blospom, formed a very, agreeable contrast to the barren ^vastes around liiem. At 6 o'clock in the evenmg, we reached Louisville, 100 miles ft-om Savannah. I found the seat of government had been removed to Milledgeville ; but 1. . ^ itie#fi *■,•■¥ ■ GEORGIA. ' t 375 my friend Dr. Powell still remained at this place; and I passed a very agreeable evening with his family. The doctpr was not at home, and I regretted much that I had not an opportunity of thanking him for his kindness and attention when I was here before. April 5. At half past 8 o'clock we set out for Sparta. A mile from Louisville, we passed a considerable stream called Rocky Comfort, where there are a number of mills ; and this being the boundary between the high and low country, the scenery now becomes more variegated. Five miles beyond this the road forks; we took the right-hand road, but it was the wrong one, and led us six miles out of our way, through a barren country. The country im- proves towards the Ogeeche river, which we crossed at the Shoals, and here there are several important mill^.- The banks of the river are steep and rocky, and the soil in the neighbourhood is pretty fertile, producing wheats com, &c. After crossing the river, we passed over vast masses of rock, and, travelling 14 miles, we reached Sparta, towards which the soil improves, and there is a pretty fer- . tile country round it. ' i Sparta is a small town, but until of late it had a ver3r> flourishing commerce, and a great deal of mercantile busi- - ness was transacted in it. It has npw, in consequence of the stoppage of foreign commerce, suffered most severely. Many of the merchants, and country people, cannot pay their debts; and the winding up of the business, through the medium of the courts of law, has produced eflects dis- tressing tf.) contemplate. I was informed that there was now no demand for British goods at all ; and all the people were clothing themselves in homespun. ?.%':; cT "■ tj^' i *-y.''*"''^'*^ *- k/^r^Tf *' >' *.- ,; ■ ■ y*-i^ r*v r^.-^? 376 TBAVBL8 IN w At SpQita I parted with my young friend, wha feturned to Savannah, and I went further up the country to Greens- burg. Meeting with a countr3anan who kept a tavern about half-way, I availed myself of his company, and lodg- ed at his house during the night My fellow-traveller, who was very communicative, told me that the country in this district was healthy, and the lands generally good. The price of land uncleared, ivas irom two to five dollars per acre. On reaching the house, I found lus family all busily employed in manufacturing, and they showed me a number of the articles, which were very good, some of them handsome. They told me, that, besides supplying the family, they made a considerable quantity of goods for sale. ^ -. .i;. .!*^u-;r.U'-j-..i^J4 '-i- "- April 7. The morning being beautiful, I started at daylight, and travelled through a very pleasant country^ 13 miles, to Greensburg. The soil is good, and abounds with a ^species of timber, called dogwood, which bears a white flower, and being now in full blossom, the woods formed a most beautiful appearance. The north-west wind, which commenced on the 2d, continued un^ now, and the weather was healthy and delightful. ^^ "^ Greensburg is a handsome town, containing about 200 inhabitants, and is improving ; but the mercantile business is in a veiy dull state. The country is handsome round it, and the situation is elevated and healthy. At 12 o'clock, noon, I set out for Mount Fertwrtf in the new purchase, where our country-stCMfe t<^ si- tuMed, 22 miles fh)m Greensburg. Eight miles from Greensburg, through a pretty good, but thinly-settled coun- try, is the Oconee river, and three miles beyond this, through a country nearly siinilar, is the Appalachy. These two GBOBGIA. 377 riven are very fine steeams, and I passed both by boots. From the Appalachy to Mount Vemon,^ I travelled 11 milea in the new purchase, and i was really surprised to observe the number of settlements that had been made in the short space of four years. The greater part of the lots were disposed of, and I was hardly ever out of sight of a plantation. The surface of the country is agreeably uneven, abounding in springs and small rivulets, and, firom the ap- pearance of the people, 1 have no doubt but the country is very healthy* II spent several days in this place, on one of which I went to Madison, the county-town, six miles from Mount Vernon. This was laid out only a year before, yet it is now a thriving place, having a court-house, a number of dwelling-houses, three taverns, and as many stores. On the 15th of April, I left this district, on my return to Greensburg. On my arrival there, I found the inhabit tants in a state of alarm. Advice had just been received, that a letter had been found in the state of Virginia, dated from Greensburg, stating that all was ready in Georgia, and recommending prompt measures to be pursued in executing the work in Virginia. It was presumed that the work alluded to was the assassination of the white peo- ple. The iakurm being given, it had spread through the country in itll directions; and the people had adopted mea- ' sures of preicaution. At this place the guards paraded the streets all night i4a On the 16th^ at 12 o'clock, I left Greensburg for Au-t gusta, accon^)anied by a doctor of medicine^ a very intel- % ligent gentleman, who lived 16 miles below Greensburg. While mte travelled togeth^ we had a good deal of con- vsrsation f«gardifig the present alarm in the coimtry, con- voi. !• 3 b 378 TRAVELS IM cemmg which we made inquiry at all the settlementB we paased, and of all the people we saw. We foundthat some of them were a good deal alarmed ; others considered that there was no danger ; and some ridiculed the whole as an iidle tale. But they all thought there was a propriety in taking measures of precaution. .•i^v«()^ri>tAi>u. ^^ I was satisfied^ upon the whole, that the alarm was greater than the danger; and that there never can be a sue cessful organization of the black people against the whites, upon a large scale, in Georgia; nor indeed in any part of the United States. A shcHt glance at the subject may be liseful, because I found that it was generally supposed in Britain, that the southern states wbuld be eventuaBy de- stroyed in this way. -t'-^v *vr; »rtUt ^'*-i'i-f '^^^a ■''t'Uih^ HHfjun t»^ By the census of 1800, 1 find that all the slaves north of the state of Delaware, amount to only 35,516 ; being such a small proportion to the white inhabitants, that tiiey Can have no influence ; and as a gradual sboMtion is going t%n, the proportion is diminishing every year^^ ?:• '- vj^* t In those states where slavery- exists in full force^ the relative numbers, in 1800, stood as in the following table. Free Persons, Slaves^ Delaware Wi^i 58,130«iJi'S*-^f*« i6,143 Maryland . i^f^ 241,985 107,707 Virginia »?; ^v«f '534,396 345^796 - Kentucky 180,602 ^. 40^343 N. Garolina^HKI 334,807 M<«ir 133^296 S. Carolina^ '199,340 .•?,:?«> jsgws-v; ^.■ Geoi^> Tennessee 102,989 • 92,018 1,744,267 146^151 . 59,699 13,584 I i .M 'i ; ' 'I ' 852,699 jbv Fron berthe that eve gfeater thatiallj strengiA and thoa the negr say attei stnictioti heading! at an. •But, in the count imr the poivver of : holding conversation with one another by writing ; wei oaui calculate what e£fect an attempt on their part would have t6 destroy the other two thirds, who have every advantage that the others want. m:^'^ ^\t has been supposed that the slaves could organize a plan to assassinate the white people, and to perform the whole intone night. . The? thing is impossible. No plan of this kind can be oi^anized,' on a large scale, without detection; and the power to organize such a plan, by the slaves ini these states, is so limited, as hardly to merit notice. Besides all this, there is probably hardly a family in the United States, where there is not one or more of tlie slaves attached to th£m> from some peiional consideration. ~.:-h^'uK riHiiX J)trH ■.ua \X 380 TRAVSLB IN The women, in particular, are a great many of them em- ployed in the capacity of domestic lervanta, and some of them are as much the confidence of their mistresses as ladies' maids are in £ngiand ) others have nursed the ohil- dren; and the whole have less or more associated with the white children when young. These are all so many ties of afiection, which but a small majority among the negroes, I believe, would be willing to break, m order to organize rebeMion ; and it will be perceived that a single discovery^ by one slave, leads to the detection of a 'whcic plot > But, indeed, it appears to me that the blacksrare in ge- neral a good-natured, well-disposed, peaceable people, and nothing but ill usage so extreme as to drive them to a state of desperation, could ever bring about any general plan for the assassination of the white people. . There may be per- tipular local circumstances of revolt ; but none is ever to be apprehended of a nature sufficient to endanfpor the safety of the southern states, or any one individual state. '*' Having travelled 3Q niiles, through a pretty pleasant country, I arrived in the evening at Washington^' which is a pleasant little town, containing about IQOi houses; and the fields in its neighbourhood are in a iiigh' state of culti> vation. ■•.'.- • i :'■.-■<.• ,. m; • , j,;- • >• ^ April 17th. I left Washington at day-light, and at tci. reached Ray's mills, a handsome settlement on a considera- ble stream of water. Having some litde business to transact het«, I stopped all day. The people in the house where I lodged had a very extensive manufactory of homespun ; and they were all sulxpmtially clad in cotton dOth, of their own manufacture, some of it elegant. /?} . a rr 4> On die 18th I travelled 16 miles, through a pretty good country, to Columbia Court-House, a small place, hand- somely situated, 22 miles west from Augusta. MpdioioiAsi^'* 381 On the 19th, I travelled through a.country nearly similar to that I pasaed t troduced spinning, upon a pretty large scale, byjemiies. At a parade of the militia, at Augusta^ I \i^as toldf that out of 500 men, only two were to be found who had a single article of British manuiactures about them. It had become feshionable-etery where to wear homespun, and from the very substantial stuff the people were making, and the agreeable emi^oyment it afforded to the young woQien of the country, I was convinced that this trade would en- crease probably > to nearly the total exoluaion^ of « British g^di^s.ihxn the state* This was fer £rom being ftittecing tome; and the commissron businessv: in whieh iwe ihad embarked, was milich affected by the low price of ,oot';Mff•'!»#f1>f^/di)|?j^'^1*l¥vl!^^v^tf^^^^n'^^^^^^ . ^ ChaHi On captair inglye river, \ fore da Charic! landed Here forturia the cil^ terition a £sw d v*J!>uri our wa repfiirs sumed defence. and is o tirely fri and con OnS captaiin vessei, 1 was, on .*' SOUTH CAROLINA. 383 miSes. I, that I had a It had in, and ig,and lyomen lid en- British atteising we ihad 3i»v€fy mcDtof way of >u>«ftv CHAPTER LVni. Ch^Hestdny-^N&vt) York, — Philadelphia, — Staten Island, On the 9th of June I left Savannah, with rtiy old friend, captain Cooper, in the Delight. The weather was exceed- ingly sultry, and we had a light southerly breeze down the river, but we were favoured by the tide, and got to sea he- fore dark, when a fine breeze sprung up, and we reached Chaiieston light-house by day-light At 8 o'clock, .we landed' in the city. ■ ■ .;*^"^'** ••; ni^:?^ •^i^i: • 4-^ Here I was invited to lodge with a firiend, which was a fortunate circumstance, for I had been but a short time in the city when I was seized with a fever ; but, by timely at- ter.ition and good nursing, I got clear of it in the course of a fisw days. louring my stay here, I went to see Sullivan's Island. In our way we passed the fortifications, where considerable repfiirs and alterations had taken place; and it was pre- sumed the harbour was now in a very respectable state of defence. Sullivan's Island is an excellent summer retreat, and IS open on all sides to the sea breeze, so that it is en- tirel}' finee from every vestige of marsh or putrid effluvia, and consequendy fix)m all epidemical sickness. On Sunday, the I7th June, I went on boaitl the Eliza, captain Leslie, for New York. This waG a very handsome vessel^ remarkably well found in every respect, and she was, on this occasion, crowded with passengers, having no 3U « TBAVEL9 IN less than 24. On crossing the bar, we put to sea with a north-east windv which sent us a considerable way to the south of our course; and after being beat about with head winds for several days, we took a heavy gale from the south- east, which nearly put us- ashore on, Cape Look-out shoals. The gale subsided, but we had still head winds until the 26th, when, near Cape Hatteras, we took a fair wind, which carried us into New York on the 30th. .^/Nothing material occurred in this city until th^ 4th of July, when the anniversary of indepeikdence was cdebraled with great splendor, and was equally attended ta by both the political parties. The federal procession consisted principally of the Washington and Hamilton Societies^, in number 700 or 800 ; that of the republicans' waft composed of the Tammany Society, Manhattan Society, andthe diffe* rent trades^ sobieties in the city. The processions Mere conducted' feq^ectlvely to different churches, where, ^after |)ra3%F^!the deolaration of indq)endence waisread, /and^flii oration delivered ; acoonlpanicd with sevdnd pieces of ap- propriate vocal and instrumental music. ^ ■ > - r r ^ outward' display 'of great festivity < was^ exhibited all ov«r the^cky, by firing guns, ringing -bells^- wi^^ mtlittty and other ^pTocessionB!; and the evening was spent i^en^t rally in a social manner, by different saciede9< and private circles. In every party, they had a regubir s^ries> of ilT toasts, one for each stalte, and a number 6f v^oluiMxttr toasts from the company. These toasts were veiy isentimental^ and may be cc^sidcred as a very good batometeribr dis» covering the particular political opitiions df th^^pGortyt ) ^f Having no particular btisinese in the cify, Ifiiv«iit1ioiive a few weeks on Long Island^ ^Mch is a ddigktful mxttif- iher residence. During this time, I toc^a jauiit as>fk'as Jamaic New 1 ricHi , and 801 respect , New Y educate country ofhUls, couiitigj! spent ^, whole, ci trees, an bnd, wl j^^herid nentcoiu viouatQ tm forn lantine g sonta 01 York rfxfs Meim critic*),;;^ banmoe/o d^^iii4 duoed an VOL. I '•»•• NEW TOBK. 385 ath a to the head K)Uth- hools. til the whidi 4th of ibrated y both tisisted njposed ya Mcrt ne, after sofap^ >•■;•■' ' itcdali mtlitary ptivate rr toasts imcntal; lor dis^ tyt' )'•■- to live Vsumv- Jamaica, a prettf little village, 12 miles to the eastward of New YoriE, and l^ the finest road I had yet seen iw Ame- rica* The-. settlements by die way are yar^^^'handsoi^, and seme of «the buildings are elegant. A mimber of veiy respectable inhabitants, some of whom are inerchantsvof New York, reside in Jamaica ; and it' has a seminary for education, esteemed one of the best in the state. The country round is very pleasant, and to the nordi is a ridge of hUls, fi:om whence there is a very fine view of the adjacent oouiiti^,\.9nd a ponsidemble distance out atfto^ ' Having spent #;^ at thb place, I retimied in Ihe evemng by Newtown, 9 pleasant litde village,! near East riyer^ In the wholecif^uit^Ifowid the sides of the. road dad. with. fruiU^ tiees, and the crops of fruit very abundantk \ t -r v# V, #K)iit'this time I fell in with a gientleman fi^om Sco|«> land, who was in expectation of a considerable quantity of^pmis i» t^e ;fiiU^ and we agrieed to trsnosact busim^ to- jf^theri during thst season, wi|h a view ;Qf >fi > moiie perm% _ nent com]«xio% if^^ trade co|i^^ open. Hayi^, pre^ viousto this, determine to leios^n in AiQcriqa^Ih^ ten for my t&mily, ! arid, expect them > (early in the ^41 ; ^^^ jbiNOVdfr toreoeive them, J[<^k lo^^ings at.the qua- nmliiie gPQund, on $taten Island^ and Jbfiving stationed my son ia our -p/sn^ lodgii^s, I accompai^ed tnro of my New Yorii frjiends to Fbil^d^lpliia., r> We^vveUed by t|ie pail st^ge, and were determined to be/inmyi One iatouria|ef«J»q», being flfiij^ 9ii|de9ome.yeiyiin^(P«ted4Ms^rt»tio^^ and critic4 ; butiin the course<>f,oni^ oC the^e, a eert^ protu- btnuiQe (OR his fiipe»./ca]|ef^f j^ ^os^, happenf^ to eomesud- d^9^ »iCDii|^t with his neigMMiur*^ ^Ib^ whioh pKOr^ duoed ail TiMlfun^t sp , sqli^, that ^;tput v^ i^to h)s -#^ VOL. I. 3 c 'U i ,)' 386 ■■* TftA¥i&L8 IN iqxmtifigifit, and made hkn rqient the vbknce of his ges- tiiie& in f'^t^s €f bioodi** Thi» gave our amuaentents a VHfff tiwiiyMdkVocal music succeeded. We had ainumber of excellent s|pigs, to the great entertainment of a 3roung i£ngli8hman, of oi^r company, who, at the dose of efich, :iwould.:exclaim, sh:%tt4ir£ii; ,.,ir <■ ^: . .^ . « Xy^t^ good apng, and very well sun^^, ,f^,y ^ ^®*'''y companions every one." ^''^Our Engllljhman, who was a yh^«^ impt^tatiM frcm Maiic^ster, entertained us with a long condequential i!9tory ^bout the great demand for Henglish mamtfaictui^ itt ^ewt't*. -** Thedm Intiiecourscof our jourticy, we encountered a SEta^lbH df people, some oi whoiti, vft were informed; had been it % iiamp meeting ; -toid it p^teaeher froin New^ YoriCj inrho had some niHie before htsen interdicted by die^'corpohrtion &om disturbing the peace of that ci^ hf\Ah^cisieiitficitks, «rt: in the front c^ the cahiage* A gobd litany ^ttici§ms ^^iviere passed on this etoimstahCej al^ ^On die nature of ^iean^ mtetingii and the fecility with which ddbf pbstOvM be transacted at them, by certsdn mtimbiers of ^e^omtnu- yty ; which oocJalsic^ied k go6d d^d^ 6t Ittdghter in our '^sfe^: This tjalkd th^ prfeichltii'ititd^ctidn. - *' Theiie^^i^ he myiaughtd- in lifeH^*» sayisf he*' *«^ tifc d^^ do you 1cti6W diat ?'* said tme of the cmnpany^ ** Wer6 y6a cvfei- thiere ? You foHoWs seem to n&k« a» fite with 'W^ dieter af«* eeonbniy ofM iSodiy B^hteis^sdoittMyih^ BIS if^you were pscrthcr^ in * ibk c<>ncern ; artd truly, from the ri^ PEKNSTIiYAiriA. 987 iisges- lents a lumber young ■ rtfv- Hi ftt^ ial Story mt onds • itntncttti tsigefttH been it % who potation tftCttt&Sf t^iMns iture of i^'tould *omintt' Jn^our ere will do'yoti 6ucvfcr ft oroer if^you he ti^ whioh are carried Oil * at your camp meetings. aUd o^\M places, iktwould appear that you are conoeoted in jtnvk with the old boy, if not directly as paitnor^ral Iea8l|.a9 agents." He was proceeding to ask what commission diey had fbrmanaghig such bua&ness, when the stage drov^e on j and we left the ^* eccentric preacher'' muttering som^-^ tlung to himself which we did not distuictly htsar. Y.i>lr>^^Mi , Before we arrived at Princeton, our law}^erwaA so over- come by exertion, that he fell asleep in the carriage; and so iiist had> Morpheus locked^up his facultie#that>we could not rousev^hkn to silpper ; and icven after 'supper he com dnued hiflt^nap in the carriage. But in one of hisinodding fitSxhe had pitched his hat, '*a special new one,'V<(wtff ffoardix and when he awoke near. Tnenton, he made this Iinown tpv the company, with lamentatbns at his bard &te« There is » certain roguishness in mankind, Which impels ttftrn tp lau^ at their neighbours* misfortunes, wheiLthey nm of ' a trivial natukie, and- attended' by ludicrousitcircumr stances; W^ answered our friend's observMions by a loud laugh ; in which none joined moifi heartily than the gentle^ man whose ^elbow had unfortun&tely given him the bloodj nose. But lieindiilged his mii^h Without adverting to the stateof hb own pericranium; .putting up his hand, he^ felt it was bucv and exclaimed, vthat he had lost his hat toa This gavCfthe- company a fresh cause for i indulging their mirdi, wtd^madc'the lawyer in part reconciled to his loss. On our arrival at Philadelphia, the two gentlemen manched aWayvtzy >iovingly together^ to purchase new hats, so vi^ifit was loBB to them. Was/ gain to the hat-makers. ^* It's an iH wind that blows fiobody good." v.;> >< Having remained a few days in Phifaulelphia, I xetumed by the steam^lxMili and;a8, \ j^ no ))usmess to.tiansact m su TMMmSiM in M«w York till the M goods would arrive^ I landed aft Staten Island^ which I found to be a moat agreeable: flaoe Qi the aammeik season. The quaiantine gvotteid is hand^i somely situated, on the east side of the island^ion a 'small hav^ about a miie> 4ind a half above< the nanoiri. % The land here- ritea boldty firom the shore, and is\|ierfisd% healthy.* 'A considerable* piece 4)f ground is cadloSed^ifor Ae hetdth offioes ; and ^the health officer, and his assistant, i«side within the enclosure; i< Contiguous to itm officer of ihe' customs "besides; and in the neighbourhood are a number of respectable &milies. Mr. Lang, fonnerly men- tioned, ^dlus femily reside here in the summer season; There was, upon the whole, a very social^ circle at this place, cmbdlished l^ a number of handsome young ladies, and we had many ^^reeable parties. Our sociefy^as often augmented by. visiters from New York, and strangers ar- rivingAtthe quarantine ground; sothatthe variei^ of senli« ment among us, r^gious and> political^ was iniproportion to dur number&i but it never interfered widi^ur social hiiiimmy^ > Heligion ahdipolitics aie two of the most, im« itortan^ conceit of mankind;-— the one embracing tliia interests now, the other' hereafter; and m proportion vas pKfpk leel a livelyinlere^in both, they will become the tqncs of conversation. '^ Out of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh.'? But they are subjects whkh admit of a great .variety of sentiment^ and onwiducK man- kind will never: diink alike» Hence it is of importance ito diey be discussed leppecately, j|p;4;ipth defeoence to the fedings of each other,^ One ofy^ most important circumstances in discuss|iig thc^, is to avxnd |iQ personal abuser mb^ espedaUy qf. public diaracters. Jbapo|^<»]ar gQvermnent, no roan can be appointed Jo a pobtic station^ mm TOBB.' 989 led at smaUi {{The liataht, fcccrof |r men- seasoni al diis as often gersar- ifaenti* sooiid hn« ig tlib tioiivas iBie the of the whkh man- witlMiit kivingthe ¥oioc of a majoritf in hia ikvofir, real or UBpliacL^ To^ call liim names, therefore, and to load hinvWidi^aU manner of reproaches, ii just to abusejat aeooad hand^ those who have appointed him, of whom your political antagonist way be one. It is often sa viewed,' and anger and strife ensue; and thus, a discussion that, fmpsaeiy mani^ed, m^ht be conducive to promote know- ledge and ^nfarmation, becomes often the means of raising the wUttlwind of fipssii^ and of de$troymg the peace of r-'i '''^ \; ■■.-^' ■ . ■"., ■■ , :{ '. .■■• ■ ■ ■ :. ',. I » i*. f ! ■'4 ■■Jt. w 'f<^ ><«:/>/*> ;. r , .J — ~ 39Q Iff*'- ■■* ■ w^ TRAVBfcS IN CHAPTER MX. ' MMiiftiMniM) JVhrt; Torkf — Comnierciat vieUfs. The expected gobds arrived early in the fall^ atid in greater quanuty than w'as at first calculated on, and there was a very good fell trade, so that I was pretty busily em- ployed in New York, till the month of November, M^hen I was delighted by the safe arrival of my &mily. I was now most anxious to settle in New York, in a mercantile! capa* city, and there seemed to be a consiHerabkr probability ^t I would be able to accomplish that object. The nc^oci- ations between America and Britain were continued, and had been so long protracted, that I was inclined to 'think all interruptions would be d6ne a^vily. Inde^ the Ame- rican government had placed her foreign relations on a footing by which the Engli^ ministry conld get an ascen- dancy over France on terms so easy, th&t, shflkdn a§ my confidence in them was, i could not imagine but that they would embrace :t America had qiened her trade to bcth hlUgerentSy accompahied by a declaration, that on anyone of them withdrawing their unjust edicts, so fiir as they in- terfered with her neutrality, she would immediately enforce the non-intercourse act agsdnst the other. Both parties had expressed the utmost good- will to^trards Ameriea, and as- serted that their edicts were only meant to annoy thfe trade of each other; alleging that America could not reasonably complain that it acrrfi/!mfa% interfered with her trade, as she Mm Amcfj than b 1 resisi time; erifice anyoni «d,as 1 eagerly tunity c nation,^ t)f putti the who fvts noi unqihed Champa that the demtea tease to being ni Hiefing] AeiruiA adewhic cd States tommunu the Engl Thisn ttatkinoi liai^ingiita iHitmfor commeri^ ihd Iti i there ily em- when I i^now NEW TOUK. 391 hid hoi wt up the proper resisUnce. It wsilmpmble that America could aet up a resistance to both^ in any other way than by withdrawing from the ocean altogether, which was 1 resistance that might be made, and had been made for a thne; but it could not b^ endured for ever. It was a sa- crifice without an object; she could in that case have m itkide. She therefore came to the resolution of resistuig any one of them, on getting the fineedom of the seas rCttor- ed,as fiur as it^ had been obstnicted by the other. How eagerly then would a wise ministry have seized this oppor- tunity of cultivating the friendship of a great and growing nation,' whose trade is of such importance to Britain ; and of putting their deadly enemy in the wrong in the fiice of the whol^ world ! But the sincerity of the British ministiy wta now brought to the test, and Bonaparte, as usual, tri- Biiqihed over them and the nation. The French minister, Chaitipagnyy intihiated to the American minister at Ihiris, that dK decrees were withdrawn, in these terms: '*Tfap derates of Berlin and Milan are revoked, and they will ccflse Id l)e in force from the 1st of November next, k being understood that, in consequence of this declaratioh, the EngNah shattj as they have declared they would, revoke #ieir ocdert in council, and renounce the principles of block- ade which tfiey have attempted to establish, or that the Umt- ed States^ •,. 'x** W - In themeah time I had kept up an intercoune with my partner ifi Savannah, and from a aupposition that aome bu- siress might be done between that port and New York, we tried the experiment by a small shipment Irom each ; but they were both unsuccessful, and I was satisfied that while •the redtrietiona were continued, no beneficial trade could be carried on, at least by us, between these two portsw In- deed I was tired of the Savannah trade altogether, and anx- iously wished for ah opportunity to get entirely clear of it But matters did not yet appear entirely hopeleaa unth England. The president stated in his message to congress, that, '* Tb a communication firom oiir minisler at London iof the tevocation of the Berlin and Milan decree^ tt was answered, that the British system woM be relipquUhed as soon as the repeal of the French decrees shtmklhaveaeHmlhf taken effect^ and the commerce of neutral nations havfj been restored to the condition in which it stood prevkmsly to the promulgation of those decrees* This pledge, althoMli^ it does nfl^ necess^y import, does hot exclude the intention 0f rdinqui^lmig along with the orders in coiuicil, the prac- tice of those hovel blockades^ whidi have a liheelfect of interrupting our foitign commerce. And thisrCbfther jus- tice to the United States is the rather to. he hekedfir^ in- asmuch' as the blockade in question, being not move con- trary to the established law of nations, than inconsistent in^th the rules of tradc; recognised by GreatBritain herself, could have tto legal basis, other than the plea^f^f^taMatioB alleged as the basis 6f the orders in c6unciL'^%;'^t^M It was stated in a subsequent part of the iRessage^ indeed, that, '* On the other important Subjects depemfoigibetween the tJhieed States and that gotvemment, >,no progiess has been made from which an early and satu^act0fi result ^^y could i babilitj try woi tern wl the ^u millioni i^gem< Fc^s, in In fo naturally factuv^s thejapic few year Bytb in party i carried o tp,the su . .* Wo >i^uhhoa\ Spei /v«v.Fiax 'U w^Befi] , Coai Snu "Thef thegreate Iron, Cotb Hats Spin VOL. I NEW YORK. 393 could be relied on:^* yet I considered there was still a pro- bability of the trade being opened. I thought the minis- try would not siuely be so mad, as to persevere in a sys- tem which went to preclude the valuable manufactures o( tlic eountry from a market to the extent of ten or twelve millions sterling annually ; and I went on making my ar- i^gements to act as an agent for some British manufactu- rc|rs, in which I had a prospect of excellent connexions. <■,_ ; In following up my plan relative to this branch, I was naturally led to inquire into the state of the internal manu- factures of>,the country, and I was astonished to observe the japid progress which they had made in the course of a few years, and the great extent to which they had risen. ^,^ By the secretary of the treasury's report, which was only in party it appeared, that *' the following manufactures are carried on to an extend which maybe considered adequate tjp^lhe supply of the, United States. * Wooden articles of every kind. Leather, and articles of leather. ... Soap, and tallow candles. . Spermaceti oil and candles. . , Flaxseed oil. . * Refinedsugar. . , Coarse earthen ware. . Snuff, chocolate, hsur-powder, and mustard. << The following branches are firmly established, supplying the greater part o£ the consumption of the United States. Iron, and articles of iron. Cotton, wool, flax, and hemp. Hats and straw bonnets. . Piqper> printing types, printed books, playing cards. I Spirituous ai]id malt liquors. VOL, I. 3 p m 'f!vc-h:/r:s^*t'~'i 304 TKAVEU Uf t Wax candles. *^ Progress has been aiade in the foUowmg bnoicheti. Paints and coburs. Chemical preparations, and medicind drugs; Salt. ,.,^ Copper and brass. Jiqpannod and plated ware. ,l Queen's and other earthen ware. . ^, '^^* ' ** The value of the goods made of cotton, wool, and flax, which are annually manufactured in the United States, is qalculated to exceed 40,000,000 dollars. #| ( i i * fi>** The manufacture of cards and wire is intimately con> nected with this part of the subject. - Whitemore*s ma- chine for making cards has completely excluded foreign importations of that article, but the wire is altogether im- ported. It appears, however, that the manufacture of it may and would be immediately established, so as to sup- ply the demmid both for cards and other objects^ provided the same duty was imposed on wire (now imported duty free) which is laid on other articles of the same material* j^ '« " Earthen and Glass-ivare. ? " A suflicient quantity of the coarser species of pottery is made everywhere ; and information has been received of four manuiactories of a finer kind lately establi^ed. One at Philadelphia, with a capital of 11,000 dollars, ma- nufactures a species similar to that made ih Staflbrdshircj in En^nd; Joid the others hi Chester county, in Pom- MEW YORK. 397 id table vdo not achines, nd they J, Jen- shuttles, \f fuUmg :he cloth ool, and d States, ' ^ :" ' tdycon- «e's ma- l foreign pther im- Lire of it i to sup- provided ted duty laterial, .J ■. V*.... pottery I received iblis^ed. rs, ma^ jrdshirci Penn- sylvania, inNew Jersey, and oa the Ohio, make various kinds of queens-ware. ««> ^* Information has been obtained of XO glass manufac^ tories, which employ about 140 glass-blowers, and make annually 27,000 boxes of window glass, containing each 100 square feet of glass. Some of these manufactories make also green bottles and other wares ; and two works, employing together 6 glass-blowers, have been lately erected at Pittsburg, and make decanters, tumblers, and every other description of flint glass of a superior quality. ** It[ is inferred^ that the annual product ofihe American inant{factures exceeds 120,000,000 doUars : and it is not improbable that the ^raw material ttsed^ and the provisions and other articles consumed by the manufacturers^ creates a home market Jbr agricultural products not very iriferior to that which arises Jrom foreign demand. t. • * '^ '?' " The most prominent of the causes which have hitherto impeded the progress of manufactures have been the abun- dance of land, compared with the population, the high price of labour, and the want of capital. The superior attractions of agricultural pursuits, the great extension of American commerce, during the late European wars, and the continuance of habits after the causes which produced them have ceased to exist, may also be enumerated* Se- veral of these obstacles have, however, been removed or lessened. The cheapness of provisions had always, to a certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual labour; and this is now, in many important branches, nearly superseded by the introduction of machinery. A great American capital has been acquired during the last twenty years ; and the injurious violation qf the neutral commerce of the United States, by forcing industry and r*" S9a capital into other thafmelsy have broken i^^te^kte k^tSi and given a general impulse, to which rnksf be oseHked the great enerease of manufaeturea during the ftto last f/eahy It would be tedious to ienumerate ^ twentieth pait of the information^ which came under my observation In cor- Tobontion of this report; I shaH, therefore, only iconde. scend upon ond single circumstance, which Shows at one glatice die |;reat progress of mahufectures, and how lltde the subject may be known by those who live in the sea> ports, lb the coun^ of New York, comprehending the whole island, there were; in 1810, ohly f/^eeioomr; the mimfoer in the state was d3,068 ; and^ general Bumnto* ry of die mamifinrtures, in the state, was us follows : " . ^ . . \ V— ,•■ -> - ■ Value. rXiOoms 33,068 yards diMh 9,099>ir03 5,002,891 f Tan works mt leather 1,299,542 ^■fy Oistflleriea mi ^irits l,68a>,794 snewcnes 42 beer 340,765 ^ Fulling mills 427 enhanced ^alue of cloth «7^126 % 1^90^ mills 26 paper ^ 2133,268 1 Hat factories 124 hats 249,035 iGlate works 6 glass (besides bOU^) 716,800 *-FowttortiMlls 2 powder 10,040 Hope walks 18 ropes 538,000 ^ Sugar houses 10 sugar 420,706 le OUmiUs 28 oil 4^,283 f%st furnaces 11 iix)iiware^ 205,300 Air furnaces 10 do. 156,720 Cut-nail &ctories 44 nail^ 276,932 Foi^[es 48 iron 185^240 Trip hammers 49 do. 40,000 I Rolling and slit, ting mills ?' do. 33,12.0 urn of in ccit- 06tide- at one «)rl|ttle hesed- ing the ur; "the • Value. )02,891 ^99,542 >85,794 140,765 ^3,268 149,035 W,«00 10,04^ ;38,000 .20,706 4^,283 5,300 56,720 !76,932 85j240 40,000 1 33,120 ^kW YORK. 3^ Carding machines 413 (value in cloth stated above) . Cotton factories 26 (value not ascertained) Woollen Victories (ditto) , ^^^-s^ Salt 525,000 bushels 147,000 Silk 2,240 skeins Articles m State Prison 60,000 The whole manu&ctures may be estimated sibove 17 millions of dollars, exclusive of flour, ashes, nuqple sugar, cyder, &c. The aggregate of the manufectures of Pennsylvania, I found to exceed 28 millions of dollars ; and they appear- ed everywhere to be approaching nearly to a supply of the internal demand, while those of Rhode Island exceeded it, and a£forded a great surplus for exportation. From these and several other circumstances which camp under my review, I was led to believe that the trade to Britain, on which I had fixed my dependence, would be now so much curtsdled, that it would be precarious : but I had been long in it ; my habits were formed to it ; and I was unwilling to relinquish it, while there was a ray of hope l^* At last that ray of hope was dissipated. The prince of Wales was appointed regent ; but no new ministry was formed, nor any measure adopted to restore harmony be- tween the two countries :— " / therefore calculated that im temal manufactures a:id commerce would, in all probability^ be substituted for foreign commerce,^^ and I resolved ta shape my course accordingly^ i -•■•X.\i»i» -f^ m i-S ..'; ,i- ^iiU S ft \ytt ' ,B -■.» aW ^K J ''v n.,,,. :-ilii^'lx: :n« fv; V^'*,T,>i<^X. ■*f *'\441| .»:;4:%,' Uv' , # APPENDIX. VOL* I. 3 B ^'i-J:^-^' r,-^&;"v' .-.M '. ■/4 #*^t "s#»»-' •'. ■« . , .». .,fiy^+i'!>n:#s ii.%;^^. ^* 'I'm; ^;\>* ^...i^.^^y, ,,j,S| •' rtf if^rm = A 4;l:A{: Of the G in plat Ue fWU:!- leoting th aoditrag • in^0,%l ' ' ■ ^ TheappfSi beiogtliQts . *,,. ^ ^>,i'«^t' J- ,i,2i;• the Mief, here arc t^ of the gr< muddy an ■. I ' , ! cooditionM ■ .4. -.7 quentlj su . . ! the other < APPENDIX. No. I. Of the CfOfse of the Xelkfw Fever i and the inems qf prewnting it inphees not yet injected with it: addrefised' to the Board rf UeoUk in America* Bff' THoauis mercantile town, near th^ water, and continues ^re, without af- fecting the higher partr. The sphere, or circuit it acts in, is ^nu^, and it i!ages most where large quantities of new ground have, been TO^iSi^t by banking out the river, for the purpose oi making n^rvieft. The appeamnoe and prevalence of the yellow fever in these places, being those where vessels arrive from the West Indies^ has caused the bdlef, that the yellow fever was imported from thence. Bi^i^ here are two cases acting in the same place : the one, the con^tkui of the ground at the wharves^ which, being new made on the muddy and filthy bottom of the river, is differentfrom the natural conditionof the ground in the higher parts of the city, and conse* quently subject to produce a diiferent kind of effluvia or vapour $ the other case is the arrival of vessels from the West Indies* 404 appkItdix, no. I. Inthestateof Jersey, neither of these cases has taken place; no shipping arrive there, and consequently there has been no em- bankment for the purpose of wharves, and the yellow fever has never broke out in Jersey. This, however, does not decide the point, as to the immediate cause of the fever ; but it shows that this species of fever is not common to the country in its natural state ; and I believe the same was the case in the West Indies, before embankments began, for the purpose of making wharves, which always alter the natural condition of the ground* No old history, that I know of, mentions such a disorder as the yellow fever. A person seized with the yellow fever in an affected part of the town, and brought into the healthy part, or into the country and among healthy persons, does not communicate it to die neighbour- hood, or to those immediately around him. Why, then, are we to suppose it can be brcxight from the West Indies, a distance of more than a thousand miles, since we see it camiot be carried from one town to another, nor from one part of a town to another^ at home ? Is it in the air? This question on the case requires a mi- nute examination. In the first place, the difference between air and wind is the same as between a stream of water, and astanding water. A stream of water is water in motion, and wind is air in motion. In a gaide breeze, the whole body of air, as far as die breeze ex- tendsy moves at the rate of seven or eight miles aH hour; in a high wind, at the rate of seventy, eighty, or a hundred miles an hour. When we see the shadow of a cloud gliding on the surface of the ground, we see die rate at which the air moves, and it must be a good trotting horse that can keep pace with the sh-^doWf even in a gentle breeze ; consequenUy, a body of air that is in and over any place of the same extent as the affected part of a city may be, will, in the space of an hour, even at the moderate rate I speak of, be moved seven or eight miles to leeward, and its place, in and over the city, will be supplied by a new body of air coming from a healthy part seven or eight miles distant the contrary way, and then on in continual succession. The disorder, therefore, b not ESSAY ON YELLOW VZVER. 405 in the air considered in its natural state, and never stationary.*— This leads to another consideration of the caae. ' An impure effluvia, arising from some cause in the ground, in the mapiier that fermenting liquors produce an effluvia near its surfacf^ that is fatal to life, will become mixed with the air conti- guous to it, and as fast as that body of air moves off, it will im- pregnate every succeeding body of air, however pure it may be when it arrives at the place. The result from this state of the case is, that the impure air, or vapour, that generates the yellow fever issues from the earth, that is, from the new made earth, or ground raised on the muddy and filthy bottom of the river, and which impregnates every fresh body of air that comes over the place, in like manner as air becomes heated when it approaches or passes over the fire, or becomes of- fensive in smell when it approaches or passes over a body of cor- rupt vegetable or animal matter in a state of putrefaction. The muddy bottom of rivers contains great quantitiesof impure, and often inflammable air (carburetted hydrogen gas), injurious to li£e ; and which remains entangled in the mud till let loose from thence by some accident. This air is produced by the dissolution ^ \d decomposition of any combustible matter falling into the wa- ter, and sinking into the mud, of which the foUowing.circumstance will serve to give some explanation. In the fall of the year that New Yoric was evacuated (1783), general Washington had his head-quarters at Mrs, Berrian's, at ROcky-Hill, in Jersey,, and I was there. The congress then sat at Princeton. We had several times been told, that the river or creek that runs near the bottom of Rocky-Hill, and over which there is a mill, might be set on fire, for that was the term the coun- try people used, and as general Washington had a mind to try the experiment, general Lincoln, who was also there, undertook to make preparation for it against the next evenitig, November 5th. This was to be donev as we were told, by disturbing the mud at the bottom of the river, and holding somediing in a blaze, as paper or straw, a little above the surface of the water. Wi 406 A^lMDIX, NO. 1. Colonels Humphries and Cob were ot that time aid-de-campa of general Washingtoni and those two gentlemen and myself got into an argument respecting the cause. Their opinion waSf tlMit, on disturbing the bottom of the river, some bituminous matter arose to the surface, which took fire whetl thettght was put to it. I, on the contrary, supposed that a quantity of inflammable air was let loose, which ascended through the water, and took fire above the surface. Each party held to his opinion, and the next evening the eiq)erimenit was to be made. A scow had been stationed in the mill-damt and general Wash- ington^ genera) Lincoln, and myself, and I believe cohmel Cob (for colonel Humphries was sick), and three or fbur soldiers witb poles, were put on board the scow. General Washington placod himself at one end of the scow, and 1 at the other. Each of ua had a roll of cartridge paper, which we lighted! and held over the water, about two or three inches from the sur&cei, when the aoli diers began disturbing the bottom of the river with the poles. As general Washington sat at one end of the scow, and I at the other, I could see better any thing that might happen from hia light, than I could from my own, over which I was nearly perpen* dicular. When the mud at the bottom was disturbed by the poles, the air-bubbles rose fast, and I saw the fire take fironi gene- ral Washington's light, and descend from thence to die surface of the water, in a similar manner as when a lighted candle is.held^so as to touch the smoke of a candle just blown out, the smoke will take fire, and the fire will descend and light up the candle* Tkik was demonstrative evidence, that what was called setting the i^ver on fire, was setting the inflammable air on fire that arose out of the mud. I mentioned this experiment to Mr* Rittenhouse, of Philadel- phia, the next time I went to that ci^, and our opinion on the case was, that the air or vapour that issued from any combustible mat- ter (vegetable or otherwise) that underwent a dissolution and de* composition of ita parts^ either by fire or water in a confinedplacey I- ESSAY OM T&LLOW tiVERi 407 so as not to blaze, would be indaminable) and would become flame whenever it came in contact with flame. In order to determine if this was the case^ we filled up the breach of a gun barrel about five or six niches with saw-^st, and the upf>er part with dry sand to the top, and, aftet spiking up the touchobole, put the breach into a smith's furnace, and kept it red hot^ so as to consume the saw-dust ; the sand, of eonsequenoe* would prevem any blaze. We applied a lighted candle to the mouth of the barrel ; a^ the first vapour that flew off would be hu- mid, it extinguished the candle ; but, after applsring the caxnlle three or four times, die vapour that issued out begm to flash. We then tied « bladder over the mouth of the barrel, which the Vapour aoon filled, and then, tying a string round the neck of the bladder, above the muzzle, took the bladder off. As we could not conveniently make experiments upon the va- pour while it was in the bladder, the next o|»eration was, to get it into a phial; for this purpose, w^ to<^ a phial of about three or lour Ounces, filled it with water, put a cork slightly into it, attd, introducing it into the neck of the bladder, worked the cork out, by getting hold of it through the bladder, into which the water , then emptied itsdf, and the air m the bladder ascended into the phial; we then put the cork into the phial, and took it from the bladder. It was now in a convenient condition for experiment. We put a lighted match into the phial, and the air or vapour in it blazed op in the manner of a chimney on fire. We extinguished it two or three times, by stopping the mouth of the phial ; and put- ting the lighted match to it again, it repeatedly took fire^ till the vapour was spent, and the phial became fiUed with atmospheric air. These two experiments^ that, in which some combustible sub- stance (branches and leaves of trees) had been decomposed by water, in the mud ; and this, where the decomposition had been produced by fire, without blazing, show, that a species of air in- jurious to life, when taken into the lungs, may be generated from substOinces which in themselves are harmless. 408 ArPKNOlXi NOi I. It is by meant ftimilar to these, that charcoal, which is made by fire without blazing, emits a vapour destructive to life. I now coihe to apply these cases, and the reasoning deduced therefrom, to account for the cause of the yellow fever*. First:— >The yellow fever is not a disorder produced by the cli- mate naturally, or it would always have been here in the hot months. The climate is the same now as it was fifty or a hundred years ago. There was no yellow lever then, and it is only within the last twelve years, that such a disorder has been known in America^ Secondly : — ^The low grounds on the shores of the rivers, at the cities, where the yellow fever is annually generated, and continues aoout 3 months without spreading, were not subject to that disorder i a. their natural state, or the Indians would have forsaken them ; whereas, they were the parts most frequented by the Indians in all seasons of the year, on account of fishing. The result from these cases is, that the yellow fever is produced by some new circum- stance not common to the country in its natural state, and the question is, what is that new circumstance i • It may be said, that every thing done by the white people, since their setdement in the country, such as building towns, clearing lands, levelling hills, and filling up valleys, is a new circumstance ; but the yellow fever does not accompany any of these new circum- stances. No alteration made on the dry land produces the yellow fever: we must, therefore, look to some otlier new circumstances ; and we come now to those that have taken place between wet and dry, between land and water. . The shores of the rivers at New York, and also at Philadelphia, have, on account of the vast increase of commerce, and for the sake ( i making wharves, undergone great and rapid alterations from their natural state, within a few years'; and it is only in such '* The author does not mean to infer* that the inflammable air, or carburet- ted hydro^n gas, is the cause of the yellow fever ; but that perhaps it enters into some combination with miasm generated in low grounds, which product the disease. partio die yell alteratu which c die yell Besi( ment,t) war, am the cons Qr comb contiguc exposed the tide. earth, an and in tli Havia the cause pearance. gotoshq yet to be der's Hot theyelloi moving i( embankir mud bott wharves under the will be wj without V When is, withov turned, b buttment£ there can on stone [ VOL. I. E8IAY ON YELLOW riVER. 400 parts of the shores, where those alterations have taken place, tha^ the yellow fever has been produced. The parts where little or no alteration has been made, either on the East or North River, and which continue in their natural state, or nearly so, do not produce the yellow fever. The fact, therefore, points to the cause. Besides several new streets gained from the river by embank- ment, there are upwards of eighty new wharves made since the war, and the much greater part within the last ten or twelve years: the consequence of which has been, that great quantities of filth, or combustible matter, deposited in the muddy bottom of the river contiguous to the shore, and which produced no ill effect while exposed to the air, and washed twice every twenty-four houri by the tide, water, have been covered over several feet deep with new earth, and pent up, and the tide excluded. It is in these places, and in these only, that the yellow fever is produced. Having thus shown, from die circumstances of the case, that the cause of the yellow fever is in the place where it makes its ap- pearance, or rather in the pernicious vapour issuing therefrom, I go to show a method of constructing wharves, where wharves are yet to be constructed, as on the shore of the East River, at Corl- der*s Hook, and also on the North River, that will not occasion the yellow fever, and which may also point out a method of re- moving it from places already infected with it. Instead, then, of embanking out the river, and raising solid wharves of earth on the mud bottom of the shore, the better method wolld be to construct wharves on arches, built of stone. The tide will then flow in under , the arch, by which means the shore and the muddy bottom will be washed and kept clean, as if they were in their natural state , without wharves. When wharves are constructed on the shore lengthways, that is, without cutting the shore up into slips, arches can easily be turned, because arches joining each other lengthways, serve as buttments to each other; but when the shore is cut up into slips, there can be no buttments. In this case, wharves can be formed on stone pillars, or wooden piles planked over on the top. In either VOL. I. 3 r ' 416 ArriMDix* MO. 1. I* ^thece eMeSy thfc ttmoe underneath wiU be a'commodioui eheker or harbour for imfdl boats, which can go in and come out always, except at low water, and be secure from storms and tnjunes. This method, besides preventing the cause of the ycUow fever, which J think it will, will render the wharves n»or« productive than the present method, because of the space preserved within the wharf. I offer no calculation of the expence of constructing wharves on arches or piltis ; but, on a general view, I believe they will not be so cxpeasiwiii|li the present method. A very -great part of the 6xpenc»4B|MiMking solid wharves of earth is occasioned by the carriagtt'of materials, Miich will be greatly reduced by the me- thoSil here proposed, and still more so, were the arches to be con- structed of oast iron blocks. I suppose that one ton of cast iron blocks would go as iiir in. the construction of an arch as twenty tons of stone. '¥, If, by constructing wharves in such manner ^at the tide wa- ter can wash the shore and bottom of Uie river contiguous to the ahore, ns they are washed in their naturdl condition, the yellow fcihit can be prevented from generating in j^es where wharves are yet to be eonstrueted, it may point out a method of removing it, at least by degrees, from places already infected widi it, which will be, by opening the wharves in two or three places in each, and letting the tide water pass through. The parts opened can be planked over, so as not to prevent th't use of the whaif. in taking up m6 treating this subject, I have considered it as belonging to natural philosophy, rather than medicinal art; and titerefore I say nothing about the treatment of die disease after it takes {)latek I leave that part to those whose profession it is te gtudyit. ■.•«j;i|**»,:-s(F«i«» . ■ . ,A- Letter to a Member of Parliament oh the Ordete in CotmeUy em^ the American Trade. ^f» IN the present eventfid period of our history^ when a war «d* ministration seems determined, by every act of aggression and CoHy, to drire diek- ooimtry to ^e utmost extremity of distress, I- consider it tiie duly of every man who loves his oountr)% to contrl* hoteiusjtttmoatetfbrts lo save the state* I think I cannot faStter usensine than by a communication to you, selecting for my si4>- jeotthe teUtions (between ^s country and America. I prefer maldng this oommunication to a public character, because he haa die power of making the best use of die facts communicated. I prefer nudting it«o you, ibocause you appear to me to stand on in* dependent grooad ; i prefer >the subject of our relations with Ame* nca, because I conceive it to be of the greatest national importance, andbutimUfFerenttyundovstood; and because, having recently been in that ■ c o u ntry , I consider mys^ pretty w«ll acquainted with it. You«re,rtant. * The writer alluded to has since abjured his error, and has made ample reparatioh to the ctiuse of truth and justice. LETTER TO A MEMBER OT PARLIAMENT. 412 Ist. The laws place all the citizens on a footing of PERFECT EQUALITY. There are no laws of entail, or of primogeni- ture, to divide the people ; and hence the mass of them are hardy, ind^ndent republicans, cultivators of the soil they possess. Few zrdfko rich as to be above the necessity of labour,^ and few are so poo^ as to be in a state of dependence ; fewer still live on charity. I resided in the country twelve months, and travelled through twelve of the states, comprehending a range of 1300 miles, and in all that time I never saw a beggar but once ; he was from this country, and it turned out, in the sequel, that he was an impostor, and not really in want. 2d. Public education is cherished by the people and GOVERNMENT. It willno doubt ^ve you pleasure, that I dwell on this ardde. It is necessary, for the illustration of the subject, to notice the subdivision of the country. Eachstate is divided into counties, and many of these are subdivided into townships of six miles square, being a division somewhat similar to our parishes. ^ the charters of incorporation of these townships, provision is gemerally made for the instruction of youth, by appropriations of land and other funds, and the schools are mostly all free. Besides this, there are numerous colleges, academies, and public libraries, supported piutly by the states, and partly by individuab; and these seminaries are rapidly increasing. I shall further illustrate the subject by taking the states in their order. [Here followed an account of the state of education throughout the country; but as this has been inserted in the foregoing work, it is here omitted.] I have dwelt long upon this subject, because I judge it of great importance, and because it is very generally believed, that, in point of education, the Americans are far behind the British. The case is quite the reverse,— they are far before them,— I mean the mass of the people. I did not meet with a single native American, above 12 years of age, who could not both read and write, and they are in general a very intelligent people. With po- litics they are well acquainted, and there are more newspapers read -^ «1« *t/APMMl>IX, SO. XI. )f'f-tK< In Ameridl, in |ropoitiaii lo the inluibitaa.ti) thm la imf comtry in die world* i tkdi confirnitkis staHeineiitiyjr m eaetract itom. Mtrt/^^ Jme- rkan Ctography, aiticfe Nem England. ^^ In Htm EngJimil, leflOttiii^ IB more genersdtyvlifined among aiU Tanks ihan bi^My oidier part of the globe ; ariuaig from tthe excdlent estaUialiiteBt of Bdiook in itoioet eveiy t0(in»lu(i and tither smaller diatncta. In these vchoob, ^ich are gonerdfy supported by a pubHc tax, and tmder tWe ^irectkm o(« achool comanttee, aix taagfat !die cle- ments e^ reading, wmkig, «!»! anihmetic^ iand in the aaone weal- thy townships, they are beginning to introdiioe the higher branidi- «)8, v'it. grammar, geography^ &]c. A very iraluable source iftf infor- tiontoihe people, isthe newspapex9,iof which not lesB'dian;ao^OOO are pnnted^very week in NewiEbigland,;aiad.th)eyjcircidaMe4n;ai- montwvtry town wad village in «he oonmry.^ in aorate he add»— *^ Acoor(Kiig>to ^n ace vrate 'estimate made 10 ^years ago, it appeatrs tliat no less than T^OOO newspapers wene rprinted weekly in !lhe Ameiiuaii states, whkh in a year nnmild amounts 4«»mons>'* •i-A^Tfaeneis^rood reason itobdliesreithatihB number.luB«in£etieBr- ly dddbled. He goes on-^** A person of {mabiire lage who icannot both read and wi«ite is rarely iko ge- sieraleStadilishBtient'Of SK;hools,7the^extensive eiroulakion of news- papers, and the itonsequent ^pmad of learning, eveiy 'township throughout the country 4s foniished widi men capaUe c^ conduct- ing the affairs of their town with jndgment and discretion. These men are the channels of political informauon to die lower class of the people; if such a class may be said to exist in Mew Er^landi where every man^hinks himself as gwd^s his neighbouryondbe' tieveathat all mankind ouoHT to posaem eqjjal aights.'^ 3d. In KELIGEOtrs matters THEftEia NBITMER TOLERATION lf04l IWKOtERATION, BUT UKIVfiftSv/^L AIGHT OF CONSCIENCE. The constitution of the United States provides eqiMUyrt^fOfm^ fimmngHmy religious establishment, and against any interference with ihefree exercise of religion, ** Religion is d^re ^ced on its proper basis, without the unwarrantable aid of the civil power, LETTER TO A IIBKBIE 01 tARLlAMENT. 4U ^PfMirted alone by its own evidence, by the lives of its professors, and by the almighty care of its divine Author ;'* and every man may freely exercbe his religious opinions, be they what they may, without at all interfering with his rights as a citizen. 4th. The oovernment of the country is in tbe hands or THE people.— America b what is called a Federal Republic* £ach state has a legislative and executive government to manage its internal concerns ; and all the states, joined together for mutual convenience and security, form the general or federal government* It consists of the house of representatives, senate, And the presi- dent,-*-elected by the people,— pear,that the United States pos- sess a firm government. The good education of the people ena- bles them to form a correct opinion of their rights, and their fre- quent elections afford them the necessary opportunity to assert tfaem.*-<-There is no privileged aristocracy to corrupt them, and there are no hireling priests to mr^^^ead them. The government and the pe(^ile can have no separate interest. Peace is the interest of the country, and the government will never declare waruidess they have good grounds for it. Ait all events, any war undertaken by the United States must be sanctioned by the people, and in my opmign they veason very widely who suppose the government will rush blindly into a war without such sanction. Indeed I think I may venture to predict, that while the present form of government remains, no war will ever be undertaken by the United States but in self-defence ; and if that should become necessary, it will be strong, vigorous, and efficient They are, however, differently represented here. We general- ly sum up the wbole of the executive government in the person of Mr. Jeffer8on,a])d because he is not sufficiently subservient to our views, he muwt forsooth be under the influence of Bonaparte. It is really astonishing, by the way, to observe the amazing power 151 416 :^:*rr»r,u APPENDIX, NO. U, which many of our politicians ascribe to this nian. They talk and reason at if no circumstance could happen on the face of the earth, in the least contrary to the designs of the power» that be in this country, but he roust be the instigator. I can assure them, however, that Mr. Jefferson,^ and those who act along with him, are no more under the influence of Bonaparte than I am. Their maxim is to cultivate^ a good understanding ivith all THE NATIONS OF TH^ EARTH ; TO QUARREL AND TO ALLY WITH NONE. » - But they will only cultivate a good understanding with other powers upon a footing of perfect equality. If they are inclined to do as they would be done by, they have a right to expect the same treatment in return. This is all that honest men can wish for; but I am afraid that our present ministry are not inclined to re- cognize this simple but substantial basis. The disputes between America and this country have been of long standing; but the ground of quarrel was much enlarged, in consequence of certain spoliations on the American trade in 1805. It would be tedious to notice all the grounds of complaint ; I shall therefore select one instance, singular in its nature, and ex- tremely offensive in its operation. In the year alluded to, seve- ral of our ships of war were stationed in the mouth of the Mis- sissippi, to intercept the Spanish vessels in the navigation of that river, to the great annoyance of the trade of New Orleans ; while these very ships of war had special orders to aliow Spanish vessels to pass and repass freely to and from our own West India islands. This, among other circumstances, led to the non-importation act, A short time after, a naval force was stationed off the entrance to New York harbour, and intercepted every thing that came in their way. But their conduct was peculiarly offensive in firing upon coasting vessels ; and at lengfth the death of Pierce, who was killed by a shot from the Leander, lighted up a flame throughout the whole continent. This wanton act of aggression has been palliated and frittered away by writers on this side the water; but, having examined into all the circumstances of the case, I LETTER TO A MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT. 417 have no hesitation in saying, that had a similar circumstance oc- curred to one of our vessels, upon our own shores, ample repara- tion must have been made, or war would have been the inevitaUe consequence. Fortunately, Mr. Pitt was by this time off the stage, and the Americans had a rational and pacific administration to deal with} who, I have no doubt, would have healed the breach long before this time, had they remained in power. I know to a certainty that the American government had confidence in them ; for, in a conversation which I had with tlie president, in October, 1806, he expressed himself to that effect ; and he observed, in particu- lar, that Mr. Fox tmu a man of the moat liberal and enlightened polictf^t a friend to his country ^ and to the human race. But, in an evil hour for Britain, and for the world, the present ministry got into power by avowedly trampling upon the religious rights of man. They are said to be energetic^ and they have cer- tainly " exerted tl^eir energies*' with a vengeance. They have quarrelled with nearly all Europe, and, not content with that, they seeim fully determined, by the folly of their measures, to force America into a quarrel also. I pass over the foul act on the Chesapeak, because it appears to have been unauthorized, and might, taken singly, have been easily adjusted. But the late orders in council appear to me to be the most impolitic mea- sure that ever this or any other government adopted towards a neutral and friendly power. America cannot possibly act upon the principle which these orders recognize, without surrendering her independence as a nation, and violating her neutrality ; in which case, it is very obvious she would immediately have a quar- rel, with France and her dependencies, and that she will take care to avoid. Indeed, I have little doubt but one great reason for passing those hateful orders was to bring the question to that very issue— 4o force America into a war with France. ^ Still, however, I do not dread an immediate war with America, The ministry, impolitic as I esteem them, do not appear to have formed any hostile design against that country; but much evi| VOL. I. 3C 418 APPENDIX, HO. II. may result from their domineering, bullying spirit, before matters are adjusted; and, as they apj)ear to be totally ignorant of the American character, there is no saying how far they may carry their ** vigorous measures*' if the Americans stand firm ; and this they assuredly will. From what I know of the American cha- racter, I am confident they never will submit to the restrictions fv« have been imposing upon their trade for years j and, in parti* culart they never will submit to these orders in council. What ! allow their Ships to be forced into this country ; searched, taxed, and UceiKed, before they proceed to France or her dependencies! They are truly bdd politicians who have dared to suppose Uiey Would. It has been alleged, that the French government have forced us to adopt these measures by their blockading decrees ; but tliose who make the allegation completely overlook the policy of France towards America; for no sooner were these blockad- \tkj^ de«i«es issued) than the French government avowed, in the most distinct terms, that they had no reference whatever to the triadebettoeeti America and Britain s and that the existing treaty between Fnmoe and America should have full effect. They not only continued to act upon this principle up to the date of our orders in council, but they gave wders to Spain to release certain Amertcan vessels which were carried into that country in virtue of similar decrees^ alleging that the Spanish government had misconceived their meaning. If further proof be wanted, it is only necessary to look at the rate of insurance on American and British vessels for twelve months back. But whatever the French government intetided to do before^ it is very certain they will resort to most " vigorous measures" now ; for they have already passed decrees, not only to set aside the effect of our orders in council, but they proceed a step farthi^, and declare, that if American vessels even suffer themselves to be searched by our ships of ^ar, a measure which they cannot help, they will be de tationaiizedy and liable to confiscation : so that, bc« tween the two contending nations, the American trade is brought into a more awkward situation than has ever been endiiried by cmy neutral and th sequen have y, would I submit forbids them? commoc probab]( trade wi posture senses. it will ni I attribu country! years pas repose, n will dote belief, th cerely ho move the uprightnc yanua P.S. has been An emba disaatroui some of ( reducing" that glori< tify them, mity. If LETTER TO A MEMBEE Of PARLIAMENT. 4t9 neatral power. Our orders in council are the primary cause, and the remaining inquiry is, what is likely to be the con- sequence? Will the present ministry revoke them? No: they have vaunted so much about their energetic measures, that it would be foUy to expect it. Will the American government submit to them ? No : the independent spirit of the country forbids it. Will France and her dependencies acquiesce in them? No: Bonaparte does not possess a spirit sufficiently ac* commodating to warrant us in thinking they will. The most probable conjecture, therefore, is, that America will suspend her trade with Europe ; throw herself upon the defensive, and in that posture rem^n till the fighting folks of Europe come to their senses. When that will be, God knows ; but I am much afraid it will not be while the present administration remain in power. I attribute the accumulated distress which is pressing upon my country to the false policy which has been acted upon for many years past; and I am firmly persuaded that we shall never enjoy repose, nor prosperity, till her councils arc swayed by men ** who will do to others as they would be done by." This, it is my firm belief, the present ministry never will do ; and, therefore, I sin* cerely hope that God, in mercy to mankind, will be pleased to re- move them soon, and that he will substitute in their place men of uprightness and integrity, who fear God and hate covetousness, I am, &c. , January 35, 1808w J. M. P. S« yan» 27.->--Siace the foregoing letter was written, advice has been received, that what I anticipated has partly taken place. An embargo has been laid in America, and it is easy to see the disastrous consequences which must be the result. However, some of our energetic politicians here are talking very big about reducing the Tankees to obedience. No doubt, they anticipate that glorious sport will result from an American war; and to gra- tify them, perhaps their masters may carry matters to that extre- mity. If they do, I have yet one piece of news in store for them : 420 APPENDIX, MO. II. » THE Americans never will make peace until the tree- DOM OF THE SEAS BE COMPLETELY AND UNE<^IVOCALLT RE- COGNIZED AS A basis! The above letter was sent to the editor of a periodical paper in the month of June following, accompanied by the subsequent remarks : The foregoing letter was sent to a member of parliament in the month of January last, and a copy of it was intended to be sent to your Review at the same time ; but other avocations retarded it for a few weeks, and, upon reflection, it was judged adviseable to decline the publication until the new nystem adopted towards America should fully develope itself. I am now sorry to find that the most of my conjectures, unfa- vourable as they were, are short of the reality. I find, too, that they are corroborated by the opinions of men of the most exten- sive information and judgment: — Mr. Baring's very able pamph- let upon the orders in council, and Mr. Brougham's admirable speech upon the same subject, in summing up the evidence be- fore the house of commons, are before the public, and ought to be read by every commercial man in these kingdoms.— Sanctioned by these, and by the evidence of facts, further reserve is unneces- sary. We cannot stem the torrent, but we can endeavour to open the eyes of our countrymen to see the sacrifice which many of them are so loudly calling for; and we can prepare such of them as are open to conviction, for what will infallibly be the issue if the system is long persevered in. — Necessity may compel the Ame- rican government to encourage their own manufactures for the pre- sents and if they be once established^ justice to the manufacturers may call upon it to protect them. We run great risk of losing THE TRADE WITH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA FOR EVER. IV EXTRACTS FROM BllOUGHAM*8 SPEECH. 4St Extracts from the Speech of Mr. Brougham before the House of Commons, April 1, 1808. SIR, until our orders in council were issued, it appears clear- ly, without any reasoning, to any one who looks at the subject, that there was no possibility whatever of Bonaparte putting his threats into execution. You will find that in every quarter we have, by our orders in council, been crossing and striking in with the enemy's plans, and supplying those deficiencies in their orders, which they in vain attempted to make up. You will see, too, what the result has been ; that the commerce of this once flourishing country is now brought down to a state lower than it ever was expected to reach, even by the most gloomy prophets, in the worst times of our history. I hold in my hand a paper ordered to be printed on the 15th of March, and giving the value of imports from the United States, and exports thither, for the years 1805, 1806, and 180r. It ap- pears from this documenr, that in 1806, the imports from Ameri- ca to Great Britain amounted to 4,360,743/. r«al value, and that the exports from Great Britain to the United States, in the same year, amounted to 12,865,551/.; and, by the average of those three years, we find the exports to the United States of America amount to upwards of twelve millions sterling, and the average of imports to upwards of four millions and a half; and as the dispro- portion is increasing, we may say in general, that this country now exports to America three times as much as she imports from thence. I have just to ask the house this one question, are you willing to continue exporting to America twelve millions and a half of BriUsh produce and manufacture, or are you not ? If you are, how are you to be paid for it ? It is evident, that you only receive four millions direct from America ; therefore there are no less than eight millions wanting, and America, we all know, can only pay you by trading with the continent. If you wish to cut up that 4S3 APPENDIX, MO. II. trade by the roots, you commit that old solecism of power, as my lord Bacon so well calls it ; you wish to command the end, but you refuse to submit to the means. You desire to trade with the United States of America ; but you desire, at the same time, to lop off their trad^ with the enemy, as you call it, which is, in other words, lopping oflf the very commerce which you carry on with your enemy, in spite of the war, and in spite of himself, by which you were getting eight millions sterling each year ; by which you were enabled to continue a trading nation. You are destroying the only means by which America can pay that enormous amount to you. She must have the opportunity, not only of taking your goods, but of exporting her own, in order to pay you. She must not only export her own goods, she must also re-export yours with them, in order that you may still send them to your enemy, notwithstanding the hostilities you are engaged in; notwithstand- ing the decrees he is threatening your trade with. So stands the matter in argument, or, if you will, in theory; and I now invite this house to say, whether it is possible for them to conceive any thing more precise and conclusive than the evidence which has been adduced at your bar, to show that this is also the matter of fact, from the actual history of our trade with America. Therefore, sir, I say, that in every point of view in which we can look at this new system of commercial regulation, we see but one effect, namely, that of ruining and cutdng off, root and branch, the whole of our traffic with the United States of America, or, in other words, I may say, the whole of our foreign trade. Sir, this short and summary view of the measure, even without the aid of the statement so satisfactorily set forth in the evidence before you, will, I trust, prove sufficiently decisive to entitle me to leave this branch of the argument without one further comment, and to affirm that I have completely demonstrated a proposition at first sight rather paradoxical : that England has, by her own mea- sures, effectually, strictly, vigorouslyy c(Hmtersigned the enemy's edict. i\ REMARK^ ON Till SCOTTIIH PEASANTRY. 483 No. lU. Remarki on the Scottish Peasantry. EHrMted from Curtie't edition of Burnt' Works. A SLIGHT acquaintance with the peasantry of Scotland will serve to convince an unprejudiced observer, that they possess a degree of intelligence not generally found among the same class of men in the other countries of Europe. In the very humUcst con- dition of the Scottish peasants, every one can read, and most per- sons are more or less skilled in writing and arithmetic ; and under the disguise (^ their uncouth appearance, and of their peculiar man- ners and dialect, a stranger will discover that they possess a curio- sity, and have obtained a degree of information, corresponding to these acquirements. These advantagen they owe to the legal provision made by the pariiateent of Scotland in 1646, for the establishment of a school in every parish throughout the kingdom, for the express purpose of educating the poor ; a law which may challenge comparison with any act of legislation to be found in the records of history, whethei^ we consider the wisdom of the ends in view, the simplicity of the means employed, or the provisions made to render these means effectual to their purpose. This excellent statute was repealed on the accession of Charles II. in 1660, together with all the other 'laws passed during the commonwealth, as not being sanctioned by the roysd assent. It slept during the reigns of Charles and James, but was re-enacted precisely in the same terms, by the Scottish parliament, after the Revolution in 1696 ; and this is the last pro- vision on the subject. Its effects on the national character rah'jf be considered to have commenced about the period of the Union ; and doubUess it co-operated with the peace and security aris- ing from that happy event, in producing the extraordinary change ■m^m 424 APPENDIX, NO. III. in fayouc of industry and good morals, which the character of the common people of Scotland has since undergone. The church-establishment of Scotland happily coincides with the institution just mentioned, which may be called its school- establishment. The clergyman, being every where resident in his particular parish, becomes the natural patron and superin- tendant of the parish-school ; and is enabled in various ways to promote the comfort of the teacher, and the proficiency of the scholars. The teacher hi mself is often a candidate for holy orders, who, during the long course of study and probation required in the Scottish church, renders the time which can be spared from his pro- fessional studies, useful to others as well as to himself, by assuming the respectable character of a schoolmaster. It is common for the established schools, even in the country parishes of Scotland, to enjoy the means of classical inscruction; and many of the farmers, and some even of the cottagers, submit to much privation, that they may obtain, for one of their sons at least, the precarious advantage of a learned education. The difficulty to be surmounted arises, indeed, not from the expence of instructing their children, but from the charge of supporting them. In the country parish-schools, the English language, writing, and accounts, are generally taught at the rate of six shillings, and Latin at the rate of ten or twelve shil- lings, per annum. In the towns, the prices are somewhat higher. It would be improper in this place to inquire minutely in:o the degree of iiistruction received at these seminaries, or to attempt any precise estimate of its effects, either on the individuals who are the subjects of this instruction, or on the community to which they belong. That it is on the whole favourable to industry and morals, though doubtless with some individual exceptions, seems to be proved by the most striking and decisive appearance ; and it is equally clear that it is the cause of that spirit of emigration and of adventure so prevalent among the Scots. Knowledge has, by Lord Verulam, been denominated power; by other i it has, with less propriety, been denominated virtue or happiness : we may with confidence consider it as motion. A human being, in proportion \ \ REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY. 435 as he is informed, has his wishes enlarged, as well as the means of gratifying those wishes. He may be considered as taking within the sphere of his vision a large portion of the globe on which we tread, and discovering advantage at a greater distance on its sur- face. His desires or ambition, once excited, are stimulated by his imagination, and distant and uncertain objects, giving freer scope to the operation of this faculty, often acquire in the mind of the youthful adventurer, an attraction from their very distance and uncertainty If, therefore, a greater degree of instruction be given to the peasantry of a country comparatively poor, in the neigh- bourhood of other countries rich in natural and acquired advanta- ges ; and if the barriers be removed that kept them separate ; emi- gration from the former to the latter will take place to a certain extent, by laws nearly as uniform as those by which heat diffuses itself among surrounding bodies, or water finds its level when left to its natural course. By the articles of the Union, tae barrier was broken down which divided the two British nations, and knowledge and poverty poured the adventurous natives of the north over the fertile plains of England, and, more especially, over the colonies which she had settled in the east and in the west. The • stream of population continues to flow from the north to the south; for ihe causes that originally impelled it continue to operate ; r.nd the richer country is constantly invigorated by the accession of an informed and hardy race of men, educated in poverty, and prepar* ed for hardship and danger, patient of labour, and prodigal of life. The preachers of the reformation in Scotland were disciples of Calvin, and brought with them the temper as well as the tenets of that celebrated heresiarch. The presbyterian form of worship and of church government was endeared to the people, from its being established by themselves. It was endeared to them, also, by the struggle it had to maintain with the Catholic and the Protestant episcopal churches, over both of which, after a hundred years of fierce, and sometimes bloody contention, it finally triumphed, re? ceiving the countenance of government, and the sanction of law. During this long period of contention and of suffering, the temper VOL. I. 3 H nm '?«»'* a*-* .^ ■ AFFEWDIX, NO. Ill*' ?m««*?>1??I' of the people became iiiore ahd more obstinate and bitted } imd the nation received that deep tinge of fanaticiun, which coloured their public transactions as wellasth^ir private virtues, and of which evident traces may be found in our own times.. When the puUic tchoiols were established, the instruction communicated in them partook of the religious character of the people* The Catechism of the Westminster Divines was the univer8idschool*book,and was put into the hands of the young peasant as soon as he had acquir- ed a knowledge of his alphabet ; and his first exercise in the art of reading introduced him to the most mysterious doctrines of the Christian faith. This practice is continued in our own times. After the Assembly's Catechism, the Proverbs Of Solomon and the New and Old Testament follow in regular succession ; , and the scholar departs, gifted with the knowledge of the sacred wri- tings, and receiving their doctrines according to the interpretation of the Westminster Confession of Fs ith. Thus, with the instruc- tion of infancy in the schools of Scotland, are blended the dogmas of the national church ^ and hence t le first and most constant ex- eitise of ingenuity among the peaspatry of Scotland ts displayed in religious disputation. With a sti'ong attachment to the nation- al creed is conjoined a bigoted preference of certain forms of wor- ship ; the source of which w6uld be often altogether obscure, if we did not recollect that the ceremonies of the Scottish church were framed in direct opposition, in every point, to those of the chin^ of Rome. . ■ - ^ ..I'-mni'^:;:,-. The information and the religous education of tht peasantry of Scotland promote sedateness of conduct, and habits of thought and reflection.-^These good qualities are not counteracted by the establishment of poor-laws, w hich, while they reflect credit oh the benevolence, detract from the wisdotn of the English legislature. Happily, in Scotland, the same legislature which established a system of instruction for the poor, resisted the introduction of a legal provision for the support of poverty; the establi^ment of the first, and the rejection of the last, were equally favorable to in- dustry and good morals j^ and hence it will not appeir surprssan'g, BEMARK8 OH THB SCOTTXIft. PEAlAMTRY. Mf d) ind i)loured and of heathc :ated in techiun and was acquir- I the art jsofthe 1 times, ion and on ; , and red wri- >retation instruc- dogmas ttant ex- isplayed ; natiOn- of wor- re, if we ch were t cburch lantry of thought d by the it Qh the }lature. >li8hed a lor of a ment of )le to in- rpriainlg, if the Scottish peasantry have a more than usual share of pradence and reflection, if they approach nearer than persons of their order usually do to the definition of a man, that of *^ a being that looks before and after*'' These observations must, indeed, be taken with m^iny exceptions: the favorable operation of the causes just men* liooed is counteracted by others of an opposite tendency ; and the subject, if folly examined, would lead to discussions of great ex<* tent. When the reformation was established in Scotland, instrumen- tal music was banished from the churches, as savouring too much of *^ profane minstrelsy." Instead of being regulated by an in- strutnent, die voices of the congregation are led and directed by 9 person under the name of a precentor, and the people are all ex- pected to join in the tune whicn he chooses for the psalm which i^ to be sung. Church-music is therefore a part of the education of the peasantry of Scotland, in which they are usually instructed in the long winter nights by the parish school-master, who is general- ly the precentor, or by itinerant teachers more celebrated for their powers of voice. This branch of education had, in the last reign, fallen into some neglect, but was revived about thirty or forty years V ago, when the music itself was reformed and improved. That dancing should also be \try generally a part of the educa- tion of the Scottish peasantry will surprise those who have only seen this description of men ; and still more those who reflect on the rigid spirit of Calvinism, with which the nation is so deeply af- fected, and to whidi this recreation is strongly abhorrent. The win- ter is also the season when they acquire dancing, and indeed almost all their other instruction. They are taught to dance by persons ge- nerally of their own number, many of whom work at daily labour during the summer months. The school is usually a barn, and the arena for the performers is generally a clay floor. The dome is lighted by candles stuck in one end of a cloven stick, the other end of which is thrust into the wall. Reels, strathspeys, country- dances, and hornpipes r^^x here practised. The jig, so much In favour among the English peasantry, has no place anuuig them* 438 •',y«f^«st€i ▲^PZHD», NO. ifi; >Trf^'>"«r^j The attachmeht of the people 6{ Scotland of every rank, aod par- ticularly of the peasantry, to this amusement, is very great. After the labours of the day are over, young men and women walk many miles, in the cold and dreary nights of winter, to these country dancing-schools ; and the instant that the violin sounds a Scottish air, fatigue seems to vanish, the toil-bent rustic becomes erect, his features brighten with sympathy; every nerve seems to thrill with sensation, and every artery to vibrate with life. These rustic performers are indeed less to be admired for grace, than for agility and animation, and their accurate observance of time. Their modes of dancing, as well as their tunes, are common to every rank in Scodand, and are now generally known. In our own day they have penetrated into Englapd, and have established themselves even in the circle of royalty. In another generation they will be naturalized in every part of the island. The prevalence of this taste, or rather passion for dancing, among a people so deeply tinctured with the spirit and doctrines of Calvin, is one of those contradictions which the philosophic observer so often finds in national character and manners. It is probably to be ascribed to the Scottish music, which, through all its varieties, is so full of sensibility, and which, in its livelier strains, awakes those vivid emotions that find in dancing their natural solace and relief. This triumph of the music of Scotland over the spirit of the established religion^ has not, however, been obtained without long-continued and obstinate struggles. The numerous sectaries who dissent from the establishment, on account of the relaxation which they perceive, or think they perceive, in the church, from her original doctrines and discipline, universally condemn the practice of dancing, and the schools where it is taught ; and the more elderly and serious part of the people, of every persuasion, tolerate rather than approve these meetings of the yoiing of both sexes, where dancing is practised to their spirit-stirring music, where care is dispelled, toil is forgotten, and prudence itself is sometimes lulled to sleep. ^ 71 REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY. 4S9 ndpar- , After n walk D these rands a ecomes eems to These ;e, than >f time, mon to In our iblished leration lancing, lOctrines losophic s. It is ough all livelier 3g their of the without lectaries axation h, from mn the and the suasion, of both ; music, itself is The reformation, which proved fatal to the rise of the other fine arts in Scotland, probably impeded, but could not obstruct, the progress of its music ; a circumstance that will convince the impartial inquirer, that this music not only existed previously to that aera, but had taken a firm hold of the nation ; thus affording a proof of its antiquity stronger than any produced by the re- searches of our antiquaries. The impression which the Scottish music has made on the people, is deepened by its union with the national songs, of which various collections, of unequal merit, are before the public* These songs, like those of other nations, are many of them humo- rous, but they chiefly treat of love, war, and drinking. Love is the subject of the greater proportion. Without displaying the higher powers of the imagination, they exhibit a perfect know- ledge of the human heart, and breathe a spirit of affection, and sometimes of delicate and romantic tenderness, not to be sur- passed in modern poetry, and which the more polished strains of antiquity have seldom possessed. There is now a legal provision for parochial schools, or rather for a school in each of the different townships into which the countr^*^ is divided, in several of the northern states of North America. They are, however, of recent origin there, excepting in New England, where they were established in the last century, probably about the same time as in Scotland, and by the same religious sect. This is also the case in certain districts in Eng- land, particularly in the northern parts of Yorkshire and of Lan- cashire, and in the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland. A lawf providing for the instruction of the poor, was passed by the parliament of Ireland ; but the fund was diverted from its purpose, and the measure was entirely frustrated. Proh pudor^! * « With what execration should the stacesman be loaded^' who could fnistrate a measure so beneficial to society ! If the statesman who neglects to provide the means of instruction be culpable, what are we to think of those who are opposed to the instruction of the mass of the people altogether ? 430 AVPINSIX, Na. II !• ■% -y '*/-f The timilarity of character between the Scots and the people of New England can scarcely be overlooked. That it arises in a great measure from the similarity of their institutions for instruct tion, cannot be questioned. It is no doubt increased by physical causes. With a superior degree of instruction, each of these na^ tions possesses a country that may be said to be sterile, in the neighbourhood of countries comparatively rich< Hence emigra*- tions and other effects on conduct and character which such cir- cumstances naturally produce. This subject is in a high degree curious. The points of dissimilarity between these nations might be traced to their causes also, and the whole investigation would perhaps admit of an approach to certainty in our conclusions, to which such inquiries seldom lead. How much superior in morals, in intellect, and in happiness, the peasantry of those parts of £ngo kind are, who have opportunities of instruction, to the same class in other situations, those who inquire into the subject will speedily discover. The peasantry of Westmoreland, and of the other districts mentioned above, if their physical and moral qualities be taken together, are, in the opinion of the editor^ superior to the j^easantiy of suay pEMTt of the island/'''. From the foregoing account of the parish establishment of Scot- land, it will readily be perceived that the Scottish peasantry are pkced under circumstances peculiarly favourable to the dissemi- nation of kncsvledge among them. As they receive an early education, they are generally intelligent, and have a taste for read* ing, but, being mostly in poor circumstances, books, to a great ex- tent, are not within their reach. To provide for the general dis- semination of knowledge, by books, it occurred to me, that an ex- *A bill was brought into the British parliament, by Mr. Whitbread, in 1W8, to make provision for the education of the people of England. It was opposed by the whole tory and court influence of the country, including even' Mr. Wyniktm, i. pretended vfhig. wv-'-w," « ,,-,:,_ j „.„,,.,; ,;. .; INSTITUTION or THB. GLASGOW PUBLIC LIBRARY. 431 people es in a istruco Kysical ese nar in the imigraf ich cir- degree s might 1 wouUl jjons, to morals, of Eng^ me clas^ speedily le other alities be or to the -v.,j,-f- lat an ex- in 1«08, to I opposed by cellent pUm would be to adopt a system of K7BLic libraries, one to be established in each pari^. ^f I communicated diis idea to a friend in ^ begir.ning of the year 1804. He concurred with me in opinion { and, with a view of trying its practicability, we digested the plan of a library to be established in the city of Glasgow, upon such principles that it might, with some Modifications, be adopted throughout that, or any other country. The greatest dtliculty we had to encounter, in putting this plan in execution, was in the attempt to make the property entirely public, and to introduce a principle by which every member of the community, in all time coming, might avail themselves of the use of the library on the same terms as the ori- ginal subscribers. We made many attempts, but could not get a single individual to join us, and the plan was likely to be aban- doned, when it occurred to my friend, who' was a little eccentric, that we could establish the library oursehes. This idea was adopted. We drew up and signed the regulations ; paid our en- try-money aUd Annual contribution, tod with the amount purchas- ed Paleif*s Natural Theology^ and Lord Lauderdale's Essay on Public Wealthy which laid the foundation of the library. My friend took the office of librarian, and I hekl all the other offices. We held regular meetings, and had much intellectual pleasure in superintending 6ur infant institution. The circumstance deve- loped a new fact in the history of- literature, namely, that two members were sufficient to form a library. In the course of a few weeks, we were joined by two or three moire, and. the funds they contributed Wei'e immediately laid out in the purchase of popular books, which enabled us to gratify our new subscnbers as fast as they joined us^ By the monrti of December, the subscribers amounted to 34, and there were 40 volumes in the library. A general meeting was then held, and the library was formally insti- tuted on the 10th of that motithr- Another meeting was held on the 3d of January, 1805, wher office-bearers were elected, and the in- stitution has since prospered in a very eminent degree. Its pro- gress for the first four years is exhibited in the following table. 432 ▲PPBNDIX, MO. III. ."...>:.■*,■ Since the year I8O89 its progress has been more rapid ; it now contains nearly 5000 volumes of choice books, and promises to become one of the most extensive libraries in the British islands* -.^ li U worthy qf remark^ thai party politica we^e never known in the institution. Table of the Rise and Progreta of the Glasgow Public Library. 'V *.■ No. of Subscribers, No* ofvi 1804. July 2 2 2 Dec. 10 34 40 1805. Jan. 3 54 53 April 1 7% 169 July 1 126 345 Oct. 1 145 439 1806. Jan. 1 163 487 April 1 173 745 July 1 1^ 782 Oct. 1 21a 808 180Jr. Jan. 1 »40 945 April 1 259 1086 July 1 275 1105 Oct. 1 2a9 1157 1808. Jan. 1 313 1861 April 1 317 1453 July 1 332 1476 Sept. 16 339 1502 Since I left the country, the library has been incorporated, on which occasion the articles were somewha' modified, and are not now sufficiently expressive of the original ; >rinciples of the insti- tution, in consequence of which I have inserted the words in italics, in the following abstract of the mr iified copy. Regu " Thi Hn on I To anobji tention For establii RY IS perreg asmaU For followij I. E rerfior being t shall w II. I lings an and the who en half yea Octobei annual c day of J anyrigh as may I return, i contribu VOL. 1 INITITUTION or TBC GI.A800W PUBLIC IIBRART. 433 Regulation* of the Ciasgoto Public Library^ instituted Decern' ^r, 1804. " The attainment of t:^an*s true rank in the creation, and his pre" sent and future hapfii)7eosy individual as well as public^ depend on the cultivation and proper direction of the human faculties** To provide the means of diffusing literature and knowledge, ii an object of the greatest importance to society, anVL There shall be four general meetings annually, viz* on die first Wednesday of January, the first Wediiesday of ApriU the first Wednesday of July, and the first Wednesday of October. Intimation of the pkce and hour of such meetings, shall be sent to each member by the secretary or librarian, three days before the meetings take place. Extraordiiiary general meetings upon spe- cial affairs may, in like manner, at any time be called by the cura- tors, who shall also be obliged to call such meetings within eight days after a written request to that effect is made to them, tqr any 12 of the members. Hf^i .. ' } -;. .*f^ '#X INSTITUTION or TBI OLAlOOW PBVI.IC LIBRARY. 435 VIL The management of this institution shall be vested in a committee, consisting of nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and librarian ; of whom four shall, at all times, be a quorum. The elec- tion shall take place at the general meeting, on the first Wednesday of January, yearly, by a majority of the members then assembled. The three curators who are then at the head of the hat, shall go out ofoffice, and three others shall be elected in their place, and added, in the order of their election, to the foot of the list. The presiding curator shall put the question, which of the members shall be first elected one of the three curators ; and from the per- son so elected, he shall, either in presence of tkie meeting, or at the first subsequent meeting of the curators, take a solemn promise, that he will discharge the duties of his office with fidelity. And in like manner the election of the second and third curators, and of the treasurer, secretary, and librarian shall be conducted. When a vacancy occurs in the curacy, it shall be filled up by the members at the next general meeting, and the person or persons so elected, shall, in the order of their election, be added to the foot of the list of curators. The offices of treasurer and secretary, may be vested in one or two persons, as the meeting may think proper, who, with the librarian, may be continued at pleasure. At all meetings, the first curator shall be preses ; in his absence, the next curator, and so on to the last ; in the absence of all the cura- tors, the treasurer ; and in his absence, the eldest member pre- sent. VIII. The treasurer shall have the management of the society's funds, and the secretary of the minutes and correspondence, and both offices shall be purely honorary. The librarian, who is also under secretary, shall have the management of the books of the library, subject to the rules made, or to be made, by the members for its government, and may or may not have a salary, as circum- stances shall direct. IX. A meeting of the committee shall be held on the Wednes- day previous to each general meeting, when the treasurer shall lay a state of his transactions before them, for the purpose of being au- ^ ^^.^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // I 1.0 ^Ut U£ itt lU g2.2 2? HA ■" £ I&& 12.0 I.I ■IHU 11-25 11.4 116 l*^^^^^B^i^B llllla^^^^^^^B ^^nSBHH^B FhotogFaphic Sdmoes Carporation ^ '^ <^ 33 WKT MAM STRHT WIISTM,N.Y. HSM (7U)I72-4M3 ^^ ^\ ^r\\ * - "< diced Mid setded, and the balaiice in his hands aMeitiiii^d* They will then iafsrm themselves of the stats of the library, and inake out a report thereon, to be laid before the general meeting, to- gether with a list of such books as they would tecommend for the use of the library. And the bettel^ to enable them to prepare such list, every member is invited to lodge widl the libmrian, b^re the commitcee meetings take place, a memorandum of such bodks, not exceeding five in number, as meet his approbation. The com* mittee shaH also cause a list of the members to be made up eight days previous to the general meetings on the first Wednesday <>f January^ yearly, which list shall be entered in a book kept for the purpose, signed by the secretary^ and shall, if required, be pro- duced at every general meeting. To that list shall be added the names of those who, during the year, have become members of the institution, and from it the names of those who die, resign, or forfeit their right, shall be delated. The first curator and secretary shall have pow«r to call a meet- ing of the committee, as often at they may think necessary, of which the secretary shall g^Ve proper notice to all the members, the day before such meetings take {dace v and it shall be incum- bent on every member to attend, or to seii^d a written excuse to the satisfacdon of the meeting. But if uiy member neglect to at- tend, or to send an excuse for two successive meetings, he shldl be held as having resigned his office. X* At each quarterly general meeting, a report of the proceed- ings of the committee shall be laid before the members for their ctmsideratioo. The list of books previously prepared by the com* mittee, shall also be laid before them, from which they shall make a selection, with any additions they may judge proper, and give or- ders to the treasurer which to purchase accordingly. ' Xlf A majority of two^thirds of the subscribers, at any general meeting assembled, may a^i^y to the crown for a charter of incor- poration, or to die provost, magistrates, and town-council fA^ the city of Glasgow, for a seal of cause, in confirmation of thase regu- lations, r . IlllTITirriON Of TBI OLAfOaW PUBLIC LIBRABT. 4M' Th6 lockty reservt the power of adding to, altfriiig, or aiiMtid*> iflg ^MM regukitioiit. But no such additiont, alientkMM, or amendments shall be made, unless a specific motion in writing is made^ seconded, and entered upon the minutes, at a general meet- ing of the society* And^ in order to allow the members time to deliberata on the proprie^ of such additions, alterations, or amendments, thus made and seconded, the consideration thereof shall not be resumed until the quarterly meeting, occurring thriet inpntiis thereafter, and if approved of by two-thirds of the mem- bers present at such quarterly meeting, the same shall thencefor« ward become a law of the society.. But it is declared thai no law ehail eiferbe pShed to dieeohe the society^ or to prevent the public at large from participating in it» advamtagWy by raising the entry money* RULES FOR THE LIBRARIAN, v L The Ubrarian shall kesp the key of the library, and have the CQStody c^ the books, for which he shall be accountable. When he enters on his charge, he shall receive an exact catalogue of the books, subscribed by the treasurer and five of the curators, which shall lie in the library ; and a copy of this catalogue, subsjcribed by die librarian, with an acknowledgment of his having received iht books therein, shall be lodged with the treasurer* IL Each subscriber shall be entitled to receive from the libra- rian, and have in his possession at one time, only, one volume of folio, or of quarto ; or two volumes in any one book of octavo and under $ but when any book consists of one volume, he shdl be en«> tided to that volume only* " III*. Books iafii^o may be kept out of the library six week»at a time t in quarto, four weeks ; in octavo and under, two vreeks. A single number of any book, review, <»* magazine, four days only* ly. If any subscriber detain a book beyond the time specified, he must pay a fine of three-pence for every week the book is so de- ^sm*** 438 ▲PrSlTDIZ, MO. III. M tained, and for a len time in proportion ; and he can have no other book from the librarjr, till the former be returned) and the fine paid. V. If any subscriber shall lend, or suffer to be lent our of his house or family, any book or pamphlet belonging to the library, he shall forieit two shillmgs and six-pence fcnr the first offence; five shillings for the second j and if guilty of a ^hirdy he shall for- feit all right to the library. VI. If a subscriber lose a book, he must pay the value of it ; or if a volume of a set be lost, that set must be taken and paid for. If any book.be injured beyond what inay be reasonably allowed for ther using, it must be laid before the committee f(# their determi- nation, and the injury be pud for to their satisfsMrtion. VII. The librarian must take a receipt, in a book to be kept for the purpose, for every book lent oiU ; but should it be incon- venient for any subscriber to attend in person, for the purpose of granting such receipt, he must send a line to the librarian, who wUl, in that case, be authorized to subscribe for him. VIII. The librarian must lend out the books to the subscribers in the order of their application. A subscriber, after keepmg a book the time specified, may take it out anew, provided no other subscriber has applied for it in the interim. Utt of Booh in the Glasgow Public library^ on the UtofJtmU" ory, 1805. Belsham's Memoirs of George III. Bums' Works, with Suppletoent. Campbell's Philosophy of Rhetoric Campbell^ Version of the Four Gospels* Cavallo's Natural Philosophy. Chatham's Letters to his Nephew. Darwin's Botanic Garden. # Edinburgh Review. Fergusson's History of Rome. IMITITUTION OF TBI UlCAlGOW VUBLXC LIBRAIT. 439 Ferguson's Poems. Fielding's Works. Flowers of Literature, for 1 801 . Franklin's Works. Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire^ GiUies''Histoi7 of Greece. * Godwin's Political Justice. Goldsmith's Works. — — . Essays. Hamilton (Miss) on Education. Hblcroft^s Travels, abridged. Hume's History of Eng^d. Junius' Lettersw Kaimes' Art of Thinking. Lauderdale on Public Wealth. * Locke on the Human Understanding. Mayor's British Tourists M'Kenzie's yo3rage and Travds. * Montidy Magazine. Moore's Travels in France and Italy. ' . iSelucco. Edward. Paley^s Natural Theology. Park's Thnrels in Africi^ Pindiir's Works. Public Characters. Ramsay's Poems. Raynal's History of British America. ' , of the East and West Indies. Robertson's Works. Shakspeare's Worics. Smith's Wealth of Nations. ■ Theory of Moral Sentiments. Smollett's Works., Staunttm's Embassy to China. 440 APrCVDIZ, MO. III. Stewart's Elements of the Philosophy of the Human Mind. Sully's Memoirs. Thomson's Chemistry. Tytler's Elements of History. Volnev's Travels in America. Voltaire's History of Peter the Great of Russia. — — — — - of Louis XV. * Wallace; or, the Vale of Ellerslie, a Poem. Zimmerman on Solitude. Thote marked tkiu *» are itrntticnt. Note«-^The Monthly Magazine is received on the 4th of eac|i month, and the Edinburgh Review on the ^th of January, April, July, and October. The ^ubscribera fire entitled to re- ceive one of the numbers at a time, over j^nd above the books allowed by the regulations. The librari^m witt give them out in the order of application, ^nd they must on no account be kept beyond four days* When^^I was in Edinburgh, in the month pf January, |6p9, 1 inserted an account of the institution in the Scots Magazine', pre- paratory to recommending the plan for parish libraries ip Uiat ^ work. My subsequent operations have defeated that inteniuon, 4 in consequence of which, I have introduced the subject here ; and ^ the plan being founded on the principles of equality, and having answered well in practice, I have no hesitat^n * . strongly xecom- . mending it to those who may be concerned iu .esiabUshingPVIIIflo LIBRARIES. ON THE BRXTIIB AND AMBRICAN TRADE. 441 ■^-'^ ■vv ■ No. IV. Essay on the Trade between Britain and America, ' For the Aurora. THE inhabitants of Great Britain and the United States of America are so allied by consanguinity, by language, by their mutual wants, and by their ability to serve each other, that a com- mercial intercourse betvrfcen them is of more importance than be- tween any 6ther two nations in the world. Circumstances of a very extraordinary nature have occurred to interrupt this com- merce, and matters have of late assumed such a serious appear- ance, that very gloohiy ap^rehiensions begin to be entertained that it may be etitirely cutoff. The great importance of the subject may be deduced,'from the mariner in which it has engrossed the attention of all ranks of the community, in both countries ; and, as might be expected, very many erroneous speculations are afloat upon it. In {^articular the primary cause of the interruption has been studiously kept from the public view, while other causes have been alleged which have no existence in fact, and many writers on hbth sides of the question, have not scrupled to affirm that the trade between the two countries is of little importance. I shsQI in this communication take a summary glance of the nature of this commerce, making such deductions as I think the subject warrants ; and I shall assign a reason for the interruption, which 1 believe tb be torrect. I shall assume as a data that the exports from Great Britain to America have of late amounted annually to about 12 millions steriing) or about 53 millions of dollars ; and that the returns in American produce have amounted to about five millions sterling, or ab(Hlt 22 millions of doUars. The balance was paid to Britain by bills of exchange arising from the trade between America and VOL. I. 3k, »• ■^• 44S APPftNDlX, NO. IV. m the continent of Europe ; and the greater part of the carrying trade has been in American vessels. Now, the exports from Britahi to America have consisted principally of manufactures, which that ingenious and industrious people have brought to great perfection, and can, in general, furnish on better terms than any other nation in the world. This arises from the manner in which the numufactures are organized. Particular branches have been brought to maturity in particular districts of country best calculated for carrj'ing them on ; thus- cotton manufactures in Manchester, Glasgow, Paisley, &c. linen manufactures in Ireland, and different parts of Scodand ; woollens in Leeds, Buiv^ Siirewsbury, &c. hardware in Birmingham, cut- lery in Sheffield, hosiery in Nottingham, Leicester, &c. &c* The necessary divisions and sub-divisions of labour have taken place. The labourers are possessed of a patient industry and a frugal economy which cannot be surpassed. A great portion of the labour is performed by machinery, more especially since the sue- cessful introduction of the steam engine ; so that all the articles above enumerated, and many others that might be mentioned, can, notwithstanding the p/ess of taxation, arising from the dis- sipation of the court, be furnished in Britain on better terms than in any other nation whatever. Now, it is surely the 'interest of the people o£ Britain to dispose of as many of these manufactures as possible. They cannot get a better market than' the United States. It is the interest of the people of the United States to receive them, so long as they can apply their industry to better advantage in clearing and cultivating their lands, and in applying to other branches of internal policy. , ;►, Again, the returns that are made to Britain are mutually ad- vantageous. They clear the hands of the growers of produce here of their surplus articles, at fair prices ; and furnish a supply of raw materials for the manufactures, and of food for the mapu- I'acturers; of timber for buildings and machiner}% of ash(>s for ^A ON THE BRITISH ANDf AMKRtCAN TRADE. 443 their bleaichfieldt; to say nothing of many other articles of utHity, convenience, and luxury. As to the carrying part, it has been mostly in American vessels, and it is mutually advantageotiiethat it should be so, for this very plain reason, that it can be done at the cheapest rate. Britain being kept in a state of eternal warfare, her shipping is of course subjected to considerable sea-risk, and a consequent increase of freight and insurance, which American shipping is exempted from, and it follows that the cheapest will be preferred. Just so will commerce always regulate itself, if left to its own operation ; and the greatest service that governments can render it is *^ to let it alone." I believe it may be safely affirmed, that, by being car- ried in American vessels during the war, American produce will go to the British market from 10 to 12 per cent, cheaper, and British manufactures will be carried to America from 8 to 10 per cent, cheaper than in British vessels. This is, of course, a great saving to the inhabitants of both countries ; and I wish to state this explicidy, because that class of men in Britain, who call them- anises " the shipping interest^*' have made a terrible yelping and noise about it ; but why, in the name of common sense, should their interest^ or the interest of any particular class be set up in opposition to the interest of a nation ? From this short review it is evident, that the trade between the two countries has been mutually ?vantageous. To the inhabi- tants of America it is useful and , wenient ; to those of Britain it is essentially necessary : it cannot be the wish of either people to stop it ; reason, and common sense, and self-interest forbid it. "Whence then does the interruption arise ? {Here a number of the reasons -which have been assigned are noticed^ and it is then stated,"] The true cause is to be found in the hostility of THE COURT of Britain. They have never forgiven America for asserting her independence. — ^They have considered the Americans as a divided people ; and they have thought that by persevering in a course of steady hostility', the country would fall an easy prey. V U:*- [After a number of ■peculatione on the probable changei that might take phice, notice is taken of the dawn of hope held out by the probabili^ of a regency and tMg minUtry being appointed in Britain. The probable atept tMpould pursue are glanced at, and the consequences to AmeridKunmed up thus.]— Our trade would flourish i our good will towlurds each other, and towards our British brethren, would encrease ; party distinctions would be done away ; political names would be no longer applied as terms of reproach: we would be all rsDERALXSTs— we WOULD BE ALL REPUBLICANS. » ',.(. •; '^■^i.; * END OF VOLUME I. •f^f. 4 ■ ' 41^' ■,■■;/■ J.^ ''v- '■'■^ -ji :,.J^r "■ ' Hr*' ■?*»*■' f.b %i 4 ...*!•* •4^ ]'-^c-