IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I |jo ■"■■ BMl <^ 1^ |2.2 :^ 1^ 12.0 ^ ,,.;a>':, ,■■ 1.25 1 1.4 1.6 ^^ II ^ ^ «« 6" ► V] /2 Fhotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WilST MAIN STRfET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) •72-4S03 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVi/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian da microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiquea The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the UKual method of filming, are checked below. D n D a Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag6e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurdo et/ou pellicuide I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartas g^ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avac d'autres documents Tight bindir^i may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr4e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout6es iors d'une rostauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pageii n'ont pas 6t6 rilm6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires: L'Institut a microfilmii is meilleur exempiaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exempiaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods norma'a de filmage sont indiquis ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restauries et/ou peiiicuides Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcoiordes, tachet^es ou piqudes □ Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality in6gale de I'impression Includes supplementary materit Comprend du matdriei suppi^mentaire I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been ref limed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuiilet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 filmtes d nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de r^di'ction indiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X i y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X i The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thenks to the generosity of: Library of the Pubiic Archives of Canada L'exempiaire film* fut reproduit grdce A ia gAn^rositi de: La bibliothdque des Archives publlques du Canada The imeges appearing here are the best quaiity possibie considering the condition and legibiiity of the original copy and in iceeping with the filming contract specificetions. Les images suivantes ont M reproduitns avec ie plus grend soin, compte tenu de la condition et de ia nettetA de l'exempiaire fiimA, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de fiimage. Original copies in printed )>aper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated Impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. Ail other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exempialres originaux dont la couverture en pepier est imprim^e sont fiimAs en commen9ant par Ie premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'Impression ou d'illustration, soit par Ie second plat, salon Ie ces. Tous les autres exempialres originaux sont fiim^s en commen^ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'Impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on eech microfiche shall contain the symbol •-^> (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies, Un des symboles sulvants apparaftra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, seion Ie cas: Ie symboie —^ signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., mey be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included In one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper Inft hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fllmA^ A des taux de rMuction diffirents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, 11 est f ilm6 A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes sulvants illustrent ia mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 hlo^io ERRATA. Page 3, line 30, instead of «« The missionary had not then gone forth,"— rcorf, " The missionary was only then beginning to go forth." i ■(>• I ill i: li w^mm (I cpi'4^ "'^•^ H, V"-^e,*<«^'^ ILtl.@®m'o Sami WMIIEIE ISMHIFOmiD, ROYAL ENGINEERS. 'i m FAMILl RECOLLECTIONS or LIEUT. GENERAL ELIAS WALKER DURNFORD, A OOLONXI. OOMMARDAWr OF THB OORFB 0» ROTAL XNOIimBS. CompiUb anb ttiiUli bg ^it Uanglrhr, MARY DURNFOKD. Iprinttb for lt« ^familn onlu. i 1 i . 1 I! 4 ' •\ ■ ' 1 i \ V- .1 I ■■k m ill PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, ST. NICHOLAS STREET. 1863. m. / 1 / ^'^ [•| 1 |;jJj |l ilM -•A- '■■■"' ' ii ur^t'i/, .!' w / /t \ "V , J ; 1. 5 1 ( ■■ '.»■ W' ■•',.! ^ /-J0¥0 : u.;'""./' •!'^i^:riH f;^/;-J=Mn,3i*i T:-i ,J ':;7:> i CO]^TENTS. Paob. Dedication vii Section I. — Mr. Elia3 Durnford of Norwood. — Lieutenant Thomas Durnford in tlio East Indies. — Letter of Mr, Molrillo. — Wounded at Trichinopoly. — Mangalore. — Killed at the attack on the Fort of Onorc 1 Suction II. — Mr. Ellas Durnford at Belleislc, Ilarannah, Mobile, — Joins Sir C. Grey's Expedition. — Dies at Tobago 4 Srotion III. — Scenes in Early Life in Martinique, Guadaloupe, during the years 1794 and 1795, &c. Section IV. — Bristol. — Release from parole. — Meeting at the Nore. — Major Wadman's Battery, and Corps of Volunteers 42 Skction V. — Portsmouth, Ireland, Barracks built there. — Death of Mr. and Mrs.Wadman. — Various anecdotes. — Family meeting. — Capt. Philip's Durnford's Diary kept at sea. — Col. Sheldrake 48 Shctiom VI.— Corunna. — Newfoundland. — Miss Mary Mann. — Chiflinch. — Batteries built and repaired. — Family siorica. — Death of Mrs. Sheldrake C2 Section VII. — Second American war. — Ceasion of Florida to Spain. — Frag- mentary notes. — Children's letters. — Citadel designed. — Col. "Walker's letter 72 Section VIII. — Sir Charles Bagot's letter. — Journey to New Orleans.— Grants, &c., found at Washington. — Return to Quebec- Correspondence. — Mrs, Foutenelle and her letters, — Mr. Roberts 84 Section IX. — Excursions. — Citadel progressing.— Letters from Mr. Loder and Mr. Graham. — Promotions.— Fossil recreations 150 Section X. — Arrival of Commissioners. — Col. By. — Letters of Charles Durnford. — Berbico. — Returns to Quebec, and then to Eng- land with his family. — Portsmouth 116 Section XI. — Colonel By's letters. — Vindication of him 129 Section XII. — Family correspondence. — Don Carlos. — Viney's letters and illness. — Sarah's death 139 Section XIII.— Ellas Durnford 161 Section XIV. — William the 4th. — Tunbridge Wells Anecdotes.— Mr. John Day's letter. — Devenport.— Belvedere lets «. . . . 167 Sbotiok XV. — Canterbury.— Ramsgate.— Jews' Synagogue. — Broadstairs. Pegwell 175 Section XVI. — Dover.-~Shakespeare's Cliff. — Castle.—Return to Belvedere. 183 Section XVII. — Hastings. — Arrival at Falkstooe. — Boulogne 192 Section XVIII. — Paris. — St. Omer.— Passage to Dover.— Weston-Hanger. 211 Section XIX. — Grove House. — Clarence Villa.— Melancholy Events. — Conclusion. — ^Letters 233 Section XX.— Durnford Pedigree 252 !|M( 1 M IV ,u ,, , I littl( bran more cond consi addii in ui of To you, my Brothers and Sisters, I dedicate this little book. Its intention is to preserve in remem- brance the services and virtues of those who are no more, and who loved you. I do iiot think you will condemn the intention: the execution is a different consideration ; if you feel there is room for correction, addition, or improvement, be sure your feelings will be in unison with mine. Accept it with the true regards of Your p-ffectionate sister, Mahv DiittNi-oaD. ! ffl \ - !• * 1 LI] Mr. ] ] • ' . • V fttth exc( veil foot 1 pub crib ( his ' was plilt will in tl « and * T • teer the tarit affix core hav( uud an < Maj ofh it is » OF TUE T.A.TS FAMILY RECOLLECTIONS LIEUT.-GEN. ELIAS WALKER DURNFORD, R.E. SECTION I. Mr. Elins Diirnford of Norwood. — LieMtennnt Thomftg Dnrnford in the East Indies. — Letter of Mr. Moivilio. — Wounded at Trichinupoly. — Muiigiilore. — Killed at the attack on the Fcit of Onore. Very littlo is remembered of Mr. Elias Durnford, grand- father to Lieuteriant-Genoral Elias Walker Dmuford, K. E., except that he lived at Norwood, Surrey, and frequently tra- velled thence in his carriage, attended by his coachman and footman, to London. The latter, while in town, frequented a public house, where, drinking freelj , he boasted of and des- cribed his master's riches rather incautiously, since some of his hearers took advantage of the unguarded state the mansion was left in, to plmuler it during the proprietor's absence of plate valued at ^'300, and some ladies' handsome dresses, which probably proved attractive to a womnn, an accomplice in the burglary. He left four sons, — Elias, Thomas, Andrew, and Clark. Thomas, ]\[r. Elias Durnford's second son, went as volun- teer to the East Indies, where he was made a lieutenant in the East India Company's Artillery, and also acted as ii dis- tant-engineer. The mis-statements and didiculties that are affixed to this period of Indian history, cling to the slight re- cord remaining of this young nuin's early end. He appears to have entered with ardor into the first dubious enterprises undertaken against Ilyder All; and the following answer to an enquiry made many years subsequently, by his nephew, Major Gen. E. W. Durnford, R. E., fixes with precision the year of his death, and proves a family document incorrect, wherein it is asserted to have taken place in 176G. -I H ' If ''y of the will niay be seen on aj^dication at this house." East India House, 4th August, 1840. In 17G5, the transactions on the Jiengal and Coromandel coast are said to be involved in obscure conciseness. On the Malabar side, in 17GG, there is equal difriculty in tracing out occurrences; and, but for the information alforded by the fore- going letter, it would have been impossible to understand the sole record the friends of Lieut. Thomas Durnford have retained of him. It certainly appears not to have been prior to 17G7 that the war commenced between the English Com- pany and ilj^der Ali, who, at lirst but a private soldier, be- came, by his courage and talents, a powerful prince, able to involve the company in difiicult wars and vast expenses. lie had then possessed himself of great part of the Malabar coast, and induced tin.' Nizam of the l>eccan to renounce his alliance with the company and unite in a war with himself against it. On- receiving intelligence of this league, the Council of Ma- d" ■•; ^ent an army into the field, under the connnand of Colo- nel Smith : wlio, on Septen)ber 2Gth, 17G7, brought the united forces to an engagement, near Trichinopoh', and there 7, although the victory of Trichino[)oly haing, uine were brought off, of considerable size, besides several smaller vessels. Through some strange error, as it is des- cribed, a small garrison was left in the forts, who were made prisoners by Ilyder Ali. The accounts of these years are difRcult to understand clear- ly ; still we learn from them that as Lieut. Durnford was present at the siege of Trichinopoly about 20th September, 17G7, the enterprise against Mangaiore succeeded on 25th February the following year, only ten days after he had signed his will. He was about five and twenty at the time of his death ; and the account preserved of him is, that, after being wounded at the siege of Trichinopoly, he \ras unfortunately killed at an attack on the fort of Onore on the Ilondjay coast. A deep impression of the uncertain tenure of life, increased by witnessing the havoc of war, must have actuated him to the arrangement of his sublunary afTh:"rs. Thoughts fly di- rected upwardly to God, while the earthly jiresence of those dear and asunder is recalled. The missionary bii'd not then gooa foi'th to cheer and to sustain, — but where does not the invisible ever supporting spirit of Omnipresence shine ! Goa, — the magnificent, the city of churches, whose piles of noble architecture were rich with the wealth of provinces, — he had just turned his back upon : it is pleasant, even in fancy, to prefer the picture of the hundred Christian churches, (his clos- ing eye ^ were directed towards), whose existence was then un- known to us. Among the hills, aromatic with cinnamon and frankincense, which divide the Carnatic from Malayala, and verdant vallies, fed by mountain streams, the sound of bells had been sum- moning the disciples of Him, ever since His name was first affixed to them at Antioch, within the sacred building of Sara- M I i . ■! II €:'..'. M > \lf 111- 1 cenic form. Here were standing cathedral churches, deco- rated choirs and altars ; the women flocked to worship within them, and the solidity of their walls attested durability and security. Lieut. Durnford, in conducting the attack on the Fort of Onore, after being severely wounded, was carried off the field by Lascars, on a board or cradle. While thus conveying, a cannon ball shot him to pieces, killing at the same time some of the Lascars who carried him. His death was painful but honourable; victory crowned his concluding effort, while the breath of fame repeats of it no more than that the forts were taken with very little loss on the Company's side. Pre- maturely though he fell, yet was his end far happier than had he survived to share in the plu7ider of the better remem- bered sack of Onore, fifteen years afterwards. SECTION IL Mr. Ellas Durnford atBelleisle, Havannah, Mobile, — Joins Sir C. Grey's Expedi- tion. — Dies at Tobago. In 1762, the accounts remaining of Elias, ihe eldest son of Mr. Durnford of Norwood, the brother of Lieut. Thomas Durnford, and father of Lieut.-General Elias Walker Durnford, commence. His history being intimately woven with the military affairs of the day, recalling them to rec(.illec- tion will assist m tracing the particular events of his life, es- pecially as their past importance is now seldom dwelt upon. Belleisle, a name glorious in the naval annals of England, was then recollected by France as having, in the consequences of its terrible contiict, weighed against the valour of le Marechal de Saxe at Fontenay, Ilocours, Lanfeldt, and the much-vaunted successes against ]3ergen-op-zoom, Lanfeldt and ]\Iaestricht. The sea combats of 13eileisle a)id Finisterre had completely destroyed the French navy, increased enormouslj^ the public debt, and led in 174S to the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. The events of the seven years' war had again humbled the power of Louis XV ; for his colonies in America, Asia and Africa were lost, his navy was no more, while Kosbach, Crevelt and Min- den were fresh in view. Louis begged for peace ai the be- giiming of .1662, without obtaining it, though he strove to bribe England by his oilers. The pretences which led to most of the wars undertaken at this period, are represented as fri- volous and unsatisfactory — unprofitableness is stamped upon them ; and their glory, like the field's fair flower, is withering fast. The historian dwells most upon the court intrigues, which embroiled all Europe, and the utter insignificance of the little matters that will kindle a great fire. An expedition against Belleisle, in the early part of this year was resolved on, despite the pending negotiation for peace with its advan- tages. This small island, having been kept in awe by the f>roximity of hostile squadrons, was now consequently strong- y fortified and garnsoned. Mr. Elias Durnford embarked in the fleet destined there ; and a journal of the siege of the cita- del of Belleisle, — of which some doubt exists of his being the author, though found among his family papers, — is a va- luable record of human toil, and military science. In its pro- gress, his merits and talents as an engineer were so conspicu- ous as to obtain commendation and notice, and lead to his after advancement. The name of Durnford is omitted in the Journal. This rocky and sterile island, strongly defended by nature as well as art, baffled the skill of its invaders for more than two months, leaving it finally undecided to which enemy the Salm of science, bravery, and discipline was most deservedly ue. The rocks of Belleisle refused footing to the first attempts of the invaders to land. Port de Andro was silenced af'^^er an ' hour's bombardment, but difficulties awaited those who reached its rocky heights. Repeated were the efforts to dis- embark their implements for offensive operations, strong gales drove their shins and boats to sea, surfs and rocks around the coast denied safety to the vessels, and provisions were damaged by continued rains. On one occasion, the troops, after secur- ing a landing, remained without food for more than four and twenty hours. These heavy rains sometimes combined with the tides to float their magazines and damage their powder. It is curious to Hote the gradual progress of this siege, where, resembling a mortal game of chess, in place of pawns and mimic knights, the lives and bodies of men were exposed and ventured to obtain possession of an admirably strong and ably-defended fortress. From the first landing at Port de Andro, to obtaining occupancy of the town of Palais, and finally that of the citadel, the gradual and regular method of operations carried on is minutely described with detail of much interest. The Chevalier of St. Croix defended himself for two months, while the' batteries were slowly gaming ap- proach. The first guns, the journal notes as regularly planted, I I 11 ii; ■, ( ili I i It: !< 6 wore at the distance of 2,200 yards from the eitadel, the next 1,670, then, successively, 2,200, 1,070,900, 1,500, 1,350, 1,930, 1,420, 900, — at which era of the siege General Crawford was unfortunately nia'le prisoner, — then 1,100; and, on the Otli of May, at the dishiiice of 1,100 yards, the guns reached within the cifadel, at iirst without doing much execution, but soon with success. This day it was reported that 7,000 of the enemy were expected to nrrive, and that they could hold out for another montii. At 1,050 yards the enemy abandoned their outftosts, and retired within the citadel 400 yards. On the 14th, at 500 yards, the garrison expected to hold out long enough to obtain honourable capitulation. GGO yards : at this time the besiegeis recovered the prisoners they had lost, with a seasonable provision of corn, wine, oats, barley, and wheat. 500 yards : the chief magistrate came blindfolded into the camp, to settle exchange of money. On the 27th they deter- mined on making a breach in the Redans du Havre. The enemy tired balls of wood, and the same night the miners be- gat! to sink a shaft. The 2Sth, a reinforcement of 324 men arrived from England ; they had now advanced to 380 yards distance, when, on the 30th, another reinforcement arrived to them. New shafts were sunk, but the tides obstructed the progress of the workmen. By the 1st June, the breach appeared considerable, and an- other reinforcement, with stores, &c., arrived from England. Now, at 230 yards, the enemy hoisted colours, and, on the 3rd, beat a parley under pretence to take up a wounded man, who had fallen into the ditch, while it afforded (hem the advantage of looking at the breach in the lledans du Havre. The same day more stores arrived from England, the breach was advan- cing, and rockets were fired off by the enemy as signals to the continent. The 4th, the enemy threw up an intrenchment behind the breach, and our miners and volunteers advanced over the ditch but retreated. 5th. Miners advanced again, protected by musketry, &g. They attempted to pass the ditch at midnight, were driven back, but finally succeeded. Our intention was to carry the mine under the enemy's grand powder magazine. We captured a spy, and have now ten batteries open. On the 7th the breach widened, and a second was attempted. The enemy were seen repairing their embra- zures at break of day, but at 8 o'clock hung out a white flag and beat the charade ; this caused great surprise. The capi- tulating enemy were treated with respect and admiration, t I while terms the most honoTirable were conceded to them. Throughout the siege, General Ilotlson denounced all irregu- larities on the part of his soldiers; any found trespassing were sentenced to death, as also any discovered to be intoxicated on duty. In no cases was drunkenness Ldinitted as an excuse. The awful sentence of hanging was deferred until the criminal became sober. The best and the bravest can give no more than their en- tire energies to the work of their desired emprize ; and, for- gotten though the stedfast toil and vah)ur displayed at Belle- isle may be by many, the children of the preserver, if not author, of this journal should at least cherish the recollection of the active and upright services he performed there. To them, it is a minor point, whether the enterprise in itself was wisely undertaken or beneficial in its result. Nay, whether, as was sarcastically said of it, Belleisle could furnish nothing better than sprats, and little cows : if it only did this, in a literal consideration of the business, it would be difficult to name staple products much more valuable. Eighteen hun- dred men were killed or disabled in the undertaking, out of the nine thousand who were sent against it. The following October, disease ravaged I3elleisle, and the fourteen hospi- tals of Palais were insufficient to receive the sick. The re- joicings in London, consequent on the capture of the island, were great and sincere. The Belleisle march was long played in the streets of London ; while, before the conclusion of the same year, it was wantonly made a subject of dispute, whether or not to blow up the fortifications on which these gallant efforts had been spent, and the reduction of which is said to have cost half a million. Soon after, a draft was made from the garrison to add to the army preparing for the invasion of Martinique, under Ge- neral Moncton ; and Mr. Durnford embarked with Lord Albe- marle's expedition, as a Lieutenant of Engineers, to be em- ployed with him in the siege of the magnificent and important Havannah. Nothing can be added to what he relates, as oc- curring to himself in the course of, and at the close of that memorable siege, since .10 journal or other notes relating to it exist, except the letter which is subjoined. This letter bears no date or address, but was evidently written in J 792. " I beg leave to state, that when a young man, during the whole siege of Belleisle, I fortunately distinguishe4 fMl in thoir wny. Tlui pcnplo of sntclic/, HurpristMl uiul iMitin'lyiii liis j)o\vt'r, miji<1«i p.o attiMiipt jit (Idi'iicc, but, (|iii«!tly HiirrciKlcroil. In vraiitini,' t,lws»> Mctf.liirs full security for tlicur |M(i|i('rty, niutiiiil iidvantnuft? was confer- red, vvliile tlio events of ii fcsw HiibsiMjuent inoiitlis eonlirni the Husjiicion tlitit tlie ol)j(>et of the (txpedition wiis not litnit«!(l to their suhjuu;iition, hut extended to Hecurin<( ii b(^tter nKiiiiiH of connnuni(!iition and eorrespondeiuu! with thi^ Spaniards atN<;w Orleans, and uniting with tiieni in their designs upon West Fh)ri(la. Sin(!c the Treaty of Paris tlu^ tide of fortune had Muctuatod among the nations. Fratd^lin had tirged, and at huigth suc- ceeded, in rousing the grandson of Louis XV. to side witli the revolted colonies against England ; and Louis had, by tneans of his generals llochanibeau and Lafayette, greatly assisted towards the success of AVashington. From 177(», the year in wJiicli America fu'st proclaime(l her independence, to the lOth June, 1770, when tln^ (h^claration of war was announced liy Charhis to the court of London, there seems little doul)t but that ►Si)ain was instructing her governors and commandcirs, both in America and the West Indies, to be in readiness against its oiirbreak. Th(!y had been arming and preparing their stroui^est places for S(;veral y(!ars back ; and as [)r()ofs they could not have been ignorant, war was dechired in the island of I'orto Rico a few days after the announcement in London; and Spaniards had carried Euglisii vesseh) they had taken at sea into the llavaniiah as prizes, before its intelligence could have possibly reaelufd either America or the West Indies, — indeed but a f(?w days after its receipt in London. IMuns had been laid, and pn^parations made to the time ; all which af- forded them proportionable advantage. West Florida appears at tliis precise period to have been peculiarly unattended to. From the year 1773, when the civil charges of her establishment amounted to ^7274 ISs. 6d., and her affairs are represented as prosperous, her expenses gradinilly lessened for the seven succeeding years, viz., in 1774 they vv^ere .i'4,850 ; in 1775, ^5,450; in 1776, ^4,003; in 1777, ^5,900 ; in 1778, ^^4,900 ; in 1779, .£4,900 ; in 1780, ^3,090 ; and in 1781, ^3,900. At this time the imports of both the Floridas did not exceed .£70,000, and the exports amounted to about .£120,000. His Majesty's IGth regiment of foot had been for some years stationed at Pensacola. West Florida and Mississippi, so long in the enjoyment of 15 ppao(» iiiid sociu! iiitorrourH*! with t\u' 8|m.iiuraiii, t'oiiiid tliciiisclvi'N the most o|ifii to invuMioii. Tlu' posscHsioiis aloii^ tin! ('(last and Moiitli-cast hIhui'h ot tlir rniulity I'ivi^r, \vld«di Kpaiii had reliiKiuislicd to Knirlaiid l)y the tn^ity o\' I'aiiH, wt'i'i' MOW in a weak and uiidcti'inUtd Ntato, uiid their proxiiiiity to tlio |)ovv(M't'ul Nftth'iiK'iit and Htroni^liold hIic priditd hcrsolt on, at the mouth of tht; Nani«) rivt^r, rciidcrrd thi'ir Hci/.iirc ttpnarmt. Thesu vvi^uk. settlcnuMitH, iornu'rly considcrrd as inchided in Louisiana, had iatidy itccn, as ah'«'jidy inentioncd, ainu!Xod to the province of Wi'st ] Tow» Lots. ■ *'•• ' 6.— Granted to Edward Maise, with garden lot. .i.|.. 191. — Granted to Smith and Birney, do. do. < . . . .. , 245. — Granted to— —Fanning, doable lot. • Ho. 4.— Granted to Elias Durnford, with six garden lots adjoining. 240. — Three town lots granted to Daniel Hickie Campbell. 241. — Volkcs, and John Brest. 31. — In Campbell Town granted to Elias Durnford, with pasture lot. 32.— In do. granted to Jacob Blackwell, with pasture lot. Tracts of land belonging to Lieut.-Gor. Durnford, and pro- perty lost by the American War, on the cession of ■aid states in West Florida. . .■> ^lumtitlea of Land. Aeras. BOO. — Tract granted to Ilias Durnford, quarter of a mile belov junction of Rivers Amite and Comite, bounded N. W. by A. Foley's land and S. E. by F. Hutchinson. No. of lots, 2wi. C laim recorded at Belina land Office, May 1 7, 1 820, as No. 10. 600.— Tract granted to John Morrison and wife, on the River Amite. Lease and Release to Elias Durnford and Da'^id Hodge, P.D. No. 17.-1,000. — Tract granted to Francis Hutchinson, near the grand Onlph ^ , , below and adjoining Philip Barbour's tract of fifteen hundrci acres fronting the river Mississippi. (Flat proceeds. Index points to a grant having been made out.) No. 18— 600.— Tract granted to Alice Blomant, behind George East's 200 acres and John Allen Martin's 1,000 acres near the river Mississippi. No. 19.— 600.— -Tract granted to Elias Durnford, in the rear of Alex. Leger- . . , I ,.,,.„ wood's 600 acres and George Urquhart's land on the river Mississippi, opposite Point Coup^. .(Registered.) No. 20. — 1,000.— Tract granted to Rebecca Durnford, northwest sido of Thompson's Creek. (Registered.) No. 21. — 20,000. — Tract granted to Alexander Duncan, back of the lands on . . the west side of Thompson's Creek, and those which front the river Mississippi, above Thompson's creek. (Ataignad in pottetsum.) No. 22. — 316.— Tract granted to Elias Durnford, east side of Thompson's Creek, adjoining Evan Jones' land. (Index point* to the grant havvrig been mad*.) No. 23.— 360.— Tract granted David Lord Rutherford, five miles cast from . -.. '■■'.. I ^' o i-.. Thompson's Creek, and bounded by Patrick Strachan's land . and Robert Falconer's land, (do.) 25 :«:■[ /.^ ;'■ 200 riTer pion'i to the from ■ land Xr 14.— 10,000.-^Traet grantAd to Eliaa Durnford, below the White Ollff, behind JobiiMartin'B,Patrick and Maurice Conway's, David Hod get', "<^'' ■' ' James Hamilton's, Lewis Guthbert's, Lionel Becket West- . I ' r ' ' rop'ii Thomas McMue's, and Montfort Brown's land, fronting . . the river Mississippi. (Registered.) Thesumof one hundred and twelre pounds twelve shil- lings and nine pence sterling, was shipped on board the sloop ..0 : ' ;i Florida, John Ooetage, master, at Pensacola, the 16th 'y^ . , . I Februarr, 1*778, as appears by his receipt. The sereral articles oeing sent by him to the river Amite, Lieutenant Gov. Durnford's private property, being for a party of I-. men, who were going to mark out roads of communication ..f, . - on the western part of the river Mississippi in West Florida, the same being taken away on the River Amite, by a gang belonging to James Witling's party. Mo. 25— 1,000.— Tract granted to George Frederick Mnlcaster, on the river Tombeckbee. {No tearch yet made.) Ho. 26. — 1,000. — Tract granted to Patrick Morgan, on the river Alabama, above the fork of the river Tombeckbee and Alabama. (To be patented to M. T. Durnford.) Ko. 27. — 200. — Tract granted to Eliaa Durnford, at the Indian village on tha River Escambia. Ko. 28.— 600. — Tract granted to Eliaa Durnford, adjoining the lower line of the abova tract. Tc*M Acres. 62,712— or land, and £112 I2s. 9d. sterling; besides £181 69. 8d.takem ftom on board the Schooner Gbarlotte, when captured by the Spaniards. N. B. There were also 6,000 acres, an undivided moiety of General Harcourt's 10,000 acres, as appears from an original lift of mine (Lt. Govr. Durnford's) situated below St. Gather- inei and Buffalo Creeks, and adjoining Amos Ogden's lands. Making a general total of 67,712 acres. The colonies and possessions of the new world were useless and unproductive to their European sovereigns, who claimed the right of dominion over them, unless peopled and colonized by their own subjects. Colonization to prosper, must be en* tared voluntarily on ; and so as splendid inducements these immense grants were bestowed, and the desire of obtaining them gained ground, not only among the sanguine and enterpri- sing, but many English noblemen and gentlemen, to more or less extent. Thus was Mississippi, East and West Florida passed over to Spanish rule. It fell during the short era when reverse at* tended the colonial wars of Great Britain, when the vigilance and assistance necessary for its preservation were unfortunatelj withheld. The resources of these provinces are computed at ezhaustless. The late Lieut.-Governor could not long have continued on parole, the next family recollection of him being that he was stationed at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. It is supposed that hit ii,; lii i .\ ''■ exchange was effected through some of the Spanish oflRcers who had been captured and brought to Pensacola ; since his non- employment could not have extended beyond a twelvemonth. This, with tiie impatience with which he bore the restraint, is understood from liis own words : •* On my return to England I solicited Lord Amherst to get me exchanged, that I might be enabled to serve my country again. I could have no pecuniary motives, none other besides those of actual zeal for the king's service ; as the Board of Ordnance, while I continued a prisoner, acted liberally towards me. By Lord Amherst's direction I made many applications to the sick and hurt office to the Spanish agent, but in vain ; and one day, at his lordship's levee, on representing and solicit- ing his further aid for my relief, he was pleased to say, that ' he wished all men would shew that zeal for the service I had done.' Soon after, I met Lord Dorchester, who informed me he was going to America.* I had served under him at the Havunnah, and had enjoyed his good-will. He expressed a wish to have me again with him, and urged my endeavouring by every possible means to get exchanged : but the same difficulties lay in my way, until I recollected I had in my possession several letters from Spanish officers who had been captured and brought to Pensacola." The conclusion to this letter is wanting. When writ- ing this, the commencement being for its better understanding placed last, he was evidently suffering in the public opinion, and pining for another opportunity being permitted for hiri to manifest his devotion in the king's service. The letter, from which these extracts are made, was probably intended for the Duke of Richmond, when Master-General of the Ordnance,, although no address confirms the supposition. It is certain that he was sent /or from Newcastle to London in 178- to Join an erpe- dilion, afterwards countermanded; and that during the succeeding years he was gratified by many marks of royal approbation. " Hon. Sir, — I should not have presumed to trouble you with this long letter, did I not think myself likely to be overlooked in the promotion about to take place, on Sir Charles Grey's expe- dition. From the generous manner you and Mr. Pitt treated me, when Sir Charles Grey mentioned my name to you, for the rank of Colonel in the army, I rested satisfied that if pro- motion was given to other officers on account of the expedi- tion, I should not have felt the want of this mark of regard * This must refer to the offer of Lord Dorchester, when going to Canada ia 1786 7 27 lance, . \n that expe* ieding ion. with .edin lexpe- leated , for pro- :pedi- >gard kada ia towards mo in the manner I now do, and which I confess op- presses my spirit very much, It is a disugreeuhle task on my Sart to speak of myself ; but as the friends whose esteem I atter myself I once enjoyed, and would still desire to bear testimony for me, believe me deserving, I beg leave to state, that when a young man," Ac. (See page 7.) While stationed at Newcastle, his eldest daughter, Charlotte, was born at Alnwick Castle, the residence of the Duchess of Athol, who was much attached to Mrs. Durnford, and was fond of going to the Public Assemblies accompanied by her. Mrs. Durnford was remarkably beautiful. On the 20th January, 1783, were signed at Versailles the articles of Peace between his Britannic Majesty and the most Catholic King. Article 3rd. — His Britannic Majesty shall cede to his Ca- tholic Majesty, East Florida; and his Catholic Majesty shall keep West Forida, provided that the term of eighteen months, to be computed from the time of the ratification of the defi- nitive treaty, shall be granted to the subjects of his Britannic Majesty, who are settled as well in the island of Minorca as in the two Floridas, to sell their estates, recover their debts, and to transport their efiects, as well as their persons, without being restramed on account of their religion, or under any other pretence whatsoever, except that of debt and criminal prosecuiions ; and his Britannic Majesty shall have power to cause all the effects that may belong to him in East Florida, whether artillery or others, to be carried away. Article 4 — Provides for the security of his Britannic Ma- jesty's subjects, in cutting, loading, and carrymg away log- wood, and also fixing the boundaries. The appointment of Chief Engineer at Plymouth from this period was given to Colonel Durnford, at which place he con- tinued for upwards of six years. During this period his vast estates in Florida were commit- ted to the direction of agents, the most confidential and res- ponsible of whom was his cousin, Mr. Thomas Durnford. From the sequel we find, that the appeal forming the object of his letter, was not unattended to : the command of the En- gineers who accompanied Sir Charles Grey's expedition was given to him. Flushed with satisfaction at this added proof of his sovereign's confidence, and in the company of his eldest son, Ellas Walker, he bid adieu to his country, witnessed and partook in the triumph of the British arms at Martinique* ; h: I» J I &c., to perish prematurely ftt Tobago, 2lBt June, 1794, among the countless victims of yellow fever. Here, ut the age of about fifty-five, hisspirit was summoned to return to Him who gave it; and the spot, become unknown, where his remains lie, has never been visited by a relative. Though Tobago's scorching sun shines upon his grave, cold icy forgetfulness shrouds it also in shadow. Foreign is the land it occupies, foreign the form wandering by, and foreign the eye, if such there be, that glances over it. His was a brave and generous spirit,, devoted to his country's service, and glowing with loyalty and affection to his beloved sover- eign. ,...: , ,,, .,.•.,, ■■.,. ,.-^ W .. ■,■»' I.. Hi •: ) I . , v .'• ' ; '■-> > I, .' ' 1 ■ - , .•**■• V ' * ' ' 1 ' )'■■•. ■:.i •'■ ' :. i:- 1 ■ I '■ \ ' t •■■'"■' H '• . ' ■'■..I'l ( l-.'tiiyf J , . . , M : '»; .••. ■■■K,U u '■>■ . .'.i''. ' I. ^ 'I , ,: M, II '- -'.. . ':. . -0>:^''i''' ■.-:Ui\rAn< - ■ : '. ;i ' ''u. 1 ••^v-' . >'- . .n; ■'■' •i ';-r . ■ . .■ ■• ' .'■ i)^^-A^ '' . ,'.?*'' ■I....!, •■•■^v- •■ '■ '■ ■'" 'f', , •■<'?«? ; J ' . *is.; ■■ . •' tw^-iJi.^-' . ■- ,..-. i ■ ■ ■ ■ i'. M .'■'..>>■ ' !'; ' ■ "■ ' -'.lii' ' ■' '■: *»■l.^-■ U -'.y-: ■' . ;■' ■ ■■ ■■■ ■ -" ''v ' . ', ■ ; .ft • «,: I'''' . ( , , ■ * ,'M^ V- . •'••■ ■ ;}.<\:., . ... . itl L^ii . ., ♦> ^,.'i „ ;,■ ;"l' ill ■^'^- . :;.;. V. 'i ,.'.•.' s. • I ( I'f ' SECTION IIL Scenes in Earlj Lift in Martinique, Gimileloupe, during the jTcArs I79i and 1795, Ac* Is tempi harmoiilM let Amoi.— Ilirr, Comti nie St. A n ruiff 1/ It is handed down in the faiuilj, that our ancestors oame to England with tho Con(|ueror, I have traced them from 1&90, in regular «ucce«- sion to the present time, 1849; and I luive my baptism from tiio re;j;iHter of a handsume church, on th« cautorn part of the coast of Huffolk. My grandmother t4)ld mo that I wont ucror's the Atlantic a bube in arms, and returned with an aunt when between four and five ycarH oM. My father, with wliom this aunt hud gone to Pensacola, held one of the high* est and most responsible stations in tho colony. There he reuiuinecl during a groat part ot the first American war, and alio that which ibl- lowed with tho Spaniards, by whom he was made prisoner, after a most obstinate defence as commandant of one of tho principal ibrts of West Florida. Soon after tho return of my father to England, at the end of the American war, I was removed to a school preparatory to entering into the Military Academy, at Woolwich, into wiiich I was received in Octo- ber, 1789. I managed to pass a good erxumination, and to my lather's delight was presented with a commission in the lloyal Kegiment of Ai*- tillery ; from which, after being in camp upon my native coast five motiths, I was transferred to the corps of Royal Engineers, October, 1793, and immediately ordered to Portsmouth, to embark with the expedition, con- sisting of 5000 troops and a fleet under Admiral Sir J jhn jurvis, assem- bled at that port, and destined for the West Indies, in which expedition my father was commanding engineer. A company of Royal Military Artificers, as then termed, just returned from Ostend, were embarked in the same transport with my father's heavy baggage, and sea stock of all denominations. But we were disap- pointed in these anticipated comforts ; for while we were on shore, hurry- ing off some essential ordnance stores, to receive which a ship was waiting at the gun wharf, a signal was made for a frigate to start immediately ?rith the said store ship, in which my father and myself accordingly sailed. We rendezvoused at Madeira ; and I, with some others had scarcely set foot on shore when Admiral Sir John Jarvis's ship made its appearance in the offing, and we had to re-embark in haste, and put to sea. Que morning at break of day, as we were sailing in the trade wind, by some negligence our transport was ahead of the convoy frigate. We * Originallj publiBlied in tite United Service Journal, August, 18&0. ,f " i ^I'l 'I lii* ii \ i ^■^n 30 ^ * I saw her steering directly after us : in a short time our yards came nearly in contact, and we were hailed in an angry tone, ^nd ordered never to presume to get before her. The following is an extract from a letter of Colonel Durnford's to hia wife. " Casse Navtre Bat, " 16th Feb., 1794. " I have had the happiness to receive your letter by the Fleet just ar- rived withthe Asiaman-cf-war, and have only just now a few minutes of time to assure you that F'lias and myself are in good health. I left him this morning, and shall see him again to-morrow, I expect. We are very successful hitherto, a ad there is every appearance we shall reduce this island shortly; and we are at precent very healthy My baggage left behind is safe arrived, and I have no doubt but we shall possess Fort Bourbon in a fortnight. " After a pleasant voyage, we arrived at Barbadoes, and three or four weeks afterwards sailed for Martinique, where the head-quarter part of the army to which I was attached, landed with little opposition on the morning of February, 1794. The British commanders resolved to effect their several landings at places remote from each other. General Dumas landed on the 5th t-nd 6th Feb., at Gallien ; General Prescott at Trois Rivieres ; and on the 8th, Colonel Sir Charles Gordon disembarked with the rest of the troops at Cas de Na~'ire ; and I had the pleasure of a tramp on foot until nine o'clock at night, which nearly knocked me up. I however f.':nd out a dirty negro hut to get some sleep in ; and being young in such things, was much astonished and concerned to find that two soldiers were to be tried for marauding. They were hanged the next ;noming in presence of the army. The same day a small divis- ion of the army started to attack a fort upon Pigeon Island -,a small bold island within range of field artillery. The first shot from the enemy passed very near me, and wounded a poor negro who was to have aided in the construction of a battery ; but a foi tunate shell from one of our howitzers blew up the enemy's magazine, and the fort surrendered. " I was next ordered to superintend the disembarkation of stores to be employed in the siege of Fort Bourbon. To effect this operation, and cover it from any attack of the enemy, two companies of the 70th Regi- ment, two field pieces, and half the company of Royal Military Artifi- cers were assembled, and we wei'e desired to keep on the alert through the night. Nothing of moment occurred ; but before noon the next day the army, which was posted on the heights about half cannon shot from us, marched to the tttack of the main body of the French army defend- ing Fort Bourbon. Onr little party were drawn up in line to secure the stores, and cover ihe left of the main army. After a few scattered shots the enemy were driven into their fortress. I then repaired to the heights, and had some difficulty in finding my way through the cane patches. On rejoining my corps, I heard an officer enquire for the commanding officer, for the purpose of reporting him&tilf, stoting that he 31 had been haatily sent from Gibraltar to replace the deceased , the very man he was ignorantly addressing I " So diflScult was it to bring up heavy ordnance to our batteries con- structing against Foit Bourbon, that it required 300 sailors to haul one gun up to the heights ; but they persevered with the utmost enthusiasm . I was present at the opening of the batteries, and requested a Serjeant of artillery to let me lay the first eight-inch howitzer. The command- ing officer of artillery came up as this was fired, and I had the pleusure to hear him exclaim, ' That was the best shot fired ;' for it had entered the enemy's embrasures. " I then repaired to my own immediate quarters. Our batteries were so well constructed that the most dangerous service was the approach to the main battery, for the field was literally ploughed up with the enemy's shot and shells that passed over our parapet. Under this I was eating my dinner, in company with two other officers, (both of whom were, seve- ral years afterwards, killed), when a thirteen-inch shell fell within five or six yards of us. On the 7th March, the batteries of the first parallel bei ig at length ready, General Rochambeau was summoned, but without effect. By the 20th the works were advanced within little more than 400 yards of Fort Bourbon, and the batteries of the second parallel were com- pleted. P'"vious to conducting the second parallel and erecting batteries close to the fort, the same officers were ordered to inspect the ground in advance, and I volunteered to accompany them. We went so close to the advanced redoubt, that expecting every moment to be surrounded by the enemy, I was not sorry when we silently returned to our first battery. I was sent to a considerable distance from our main approaches, to con- struct an enfilading battery against a troublesome line of the enemy's fort. It was in a cane patch ; and so secretly was the work prosecuted, that a parapet was erected, open to the view of our own troops, before it was dis- covered by the enemy ; no sooner was it observed by them than they de- tached a battalion of light infantry to make prisoners of me and my party, consisting of a detachment of the 70tli regiment. I was returning from my work to report its progress when I passed this detachment of the enemy unobserved. " During the following night the platforms were laid, and the guns brought up by sailors, who also worked them very effectually. Batteries were under construction for breaching the advanced redoubt, and near face of the fort, and orders were given for a general assault, when the enemy offered to capitulate."* The following is an extract from Sir Charles Grey't despatch, dated Fort Royal, Martinique, March 25, 1794 :— " Sir, — I have the happiness to acquaint you of the complete conquest of this valuable island,the last and most important fortress of Fort Bour- bon having surrendered to his Majesty's arms at four o'clock in the after- noon of the 23rd instant, at which time His Royal Highness Prince * In March, His Royal Highness Prince Edward arrived from Gaaada and took the command of the third division, which had been held for him by Sir Charlei Gordon. — Brtnton's Naval History. ■r_: m 1^ iii3 1 If 1 I m :.:i 1 lli 1 4 1 i:' \ ■ u mm 'H 32 . ■ ',,' - 1- Edward, Major General of his majesty's forces, took possession of both gates with the 1st and 3rd battallion of grenadiers, and the 1st and 3rd light infantry ; and I have the honour to transmit to you the articles of capitulation, &c Iconsider myself under great obligation to Lieut.-General Presoott for the zeal and ability with which he has assisted me throughout this arduous service now brought to a conclusion, and o all the generals and other officers : Colonel Durnford, with the corps of TSngineers, and Lieut. Colonels Paterson and Sowerby, and Major Manley with the Royal Artillery, have also a claim to my warmesio approbation for their exertions in placing and constructing of the batteries, and the well-directed fire of the artillery. The bravery, regularity, and good be- haviour of the troops on every occasion has been most meritorious and exemplary. The good conduct of the brigade of Grenadiers, under the immediate conduct of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, and of the brigade of Light Infantry under Major-General Dundas, and, indeed, of all the troops, affords me the highest satisfaction." Terms were soon agreed upon, and I sailed with the troops for St. Lucia. That island speedily surrendered ; and we proceeded to Guade- loupe, which was also soon in our possession with little resistance from the enemy, at least against the force to which I was attached, which took Fort Fleur d'Ep^ and Fort Government overlooking Pointe tt-Pitre. This strong fort was taken by storm at five o'clock the 11th of May, under a heavy fire of cannon and musketry by three divisions. The first, under the command of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, consisting of 1st and 2nd Battalions of Grenadiers, and two of the naval Battal- ions ; the second under Major-General Dundas, with battalions jf Light Infantry ; the 3rd under Colonel Symes, which co-operated with Major- General Dundas. The name of this fort was changed to that of Fort Prince of Wales. I joined several officers on entering the latter town (there might have been a dozen of us,) and we proceeded to a handsome building ^ve took for an hotel and, sans c6r4inonie, order^id a good dinner, which was soon provided, and served up very comfortably. The meats were excellent, the wines capital ; but to my astonishment, upon requesting the bill, we were informed it was a private house ; that the owner had officiated as head waiter, and insisted we should not pay a sou. At 12 o'clock on the night of the 19th April, the 1st and 2nd Bat- talions of Grenadiers, and the 1st Light Infantry moved forward from Trois Rivieres and Grande Ance, and took their famous post of Palmiste, with all their batteries, at day-break of the 20th, commanding Fort St. Charles and Basseterre, and communicating with Major General Dundas's division on the morning of the 21st, who had made his approach by Morne Howel. General Collet soon capitulated, surrendering Guadar loupe and all its dependencies, comprehending the islands of Marigalante, Deieada, the Saintes, &c., on the same terms that were allowed to Roch- ambeau at Martinique, and Richard at St. Lucia ; to march out with the honours of war and lay down their arms, to be sent to France, and not to serve against the British forces or their allies during the war. 33 of Bat- from liste, tt St. jidas's ih by lada- [ante, loch- with aad From Pointe-iVPitro I was ordered to Basseterre, the head-quarters, where General Dundas had been newly appointed governor. General Dundas had been in command of the Light Infantry, which troops were incessantly and most effectually employed. He was a favourite with the whole army.* I had been stationed at Basseterre but a few weeks before the yellow fever broke out, which carried off many of our soldiers ; and, to the great giief of the army and navy, our respected governor. While his body was on the point of interment in Fort Matilda, and I was in the act of seeing his coffij lowered, the rumour reached us that the French had landed and taken Fort Fleur d'Ep^e by assault. A small armament from Brest, landing 2000 men on the island, under the Commissioner Victor Hugues, made themselves masters of the Fort of Grande-Terre. I was ordered to join the counter attack upon this division of the island, and on my returning to quarters I found my commanding officer preparing to proceed with a body of troops to the &cene of action. I was embarked ou board a liae of battle ship, and we sailed for Point-a-Pitre a few days after, where the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Charles Grey, had before arrived with a strong force, and in the month of June we were dis- embarked to invest Fort Fleur d'Epde. While upon the advance, I received the affecting intelligence of my ' \mented father's death at Tobago, of yellow fever, through a letter frc m the officer who had succeeded to his command at that island, and w lo fell himself a few days afterwards, a victim to the same terrible pesti- lence. I was, of course, much shocked ; and not proceeding immediately with the party, who were carrying tools intended to break ground against the fort, the officer in command reprimanded me so harshly that the ordnance surgeon accused him of great inhumanity. This caused me to rouse my- self and follow the party, which I soon overtook ; and the night was passed in the damp open air, though fortunately sheltered from the grape- shot of the enemy which saluted us frequently during the night ; 30 tliat independently of an expected sally from the fort, in readiness for »vhic-r we had two field pieces drawn up across the road, close to the spot I lay on, I obtained little rest or sleep. On ■ !io 27th, the enemy, attacked on all sides by Brigadier-General Sym' .. ; ith the Grenadiers and Light Infantry, were completely routed, dri— iik I') s'n to Morne Mascot, where they again made resistance, but being ciu ^ j. with bayonets they fled into Fort Fleur d'Ep^e. Batteries f .■ . field-pieces were commenced, and I had to superintend the construction of two, mounted at point blank range, four hundred yards distant from the enemy's main battery of four 24-pounders, from which my party was repeatedly fired upon, and with such effect that the sandbags were dislodged from the embrasures, almost as fast as I directed them to be placed. • The flouriahing state of the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe, and St. Lucia is , Niarent from a valuation made in May. 1794, of ordnance stores alone, cap- tu" > in these several islands, being made at jC24,171 15s. 6ii. sterling money. C ■| i * ■m^ ml ii 1 r, 84 About midday, one of the Civil Superintendents of the extreme bat- tery to the left, came past very hastily to warn the advanced fiwce, a bat- talion of Clrenadiers, that the enemy were marching out of the fort to Attack them ; and so sudden was their approach that the commanding Officer was obliged to form his men, half-shaven as he was. The Grenadiers expended most of their sixty rounds per man ; and the assailants, having suffered a severe loss, were driven into the fort. Our loss was ti-ifling. While the action was going on, within two or three hundred yards of my batteries, I could not help looking over the para- pet to see the Upshot of this affair. Several musket balls passed so near me that an artillery officer, for whom the battfiries were erecting, warned tae of my danger. Soon after the action, the Commander-in-Chief passed me, with General Arnold riding by his side, and it was understood that he volunteered to lead the troops to the attack of the town of Pointe-ll-Pitre. The attack took place during the night ; but the English commander being wounded, aind some other Casualties, Fort Government, an insignificant work, was not taken, from which the enemy poured a destructive fire upon our soldiers, who were scattered about the town ; and they were consequently ordered to retire from the place, and embarked. In the course of the day following the atta . ' the town, the batteries being finished, and sixteen field pieces moun 'le four 24-pounders in the fort were com- pletely silenced; and the p< .ion having been abandoned, the whole of the English force was withdrawn. j Extract of a letter from Sir Charles Grey, Guadeloiipe, July 8. ** I had every thing in readiness for an attack u^on Fort Fleur d'Epde by storm, with the second battalion of Grenadiers, &c., but the failure against the town of Point-i^-Pitre obliged me to relinquish the meditated attack, by laying me under the necessity of detaching the Grenadiers to cover the retreat of Major-General Symes" division." I was ordered to join our force at Camp Berville, a position previously taken up to prevent the incursions of the enemy into the main part of Guadeloupe. The sea flowing into the harbour, and passing the town of Pointe-i-Pitre, divides the island of Guadeloupe into two distinct parts. The troops, quartered at Camp Berville, prevented the enemy from enter- ing Basseterre for four months. Previous to the attack on Pointe-^-Pitre and Fleur d'Epde, a battery of one gun had been erected, against which a frigate was sent ; and it is a remarkable fact, that, as time did not a^mit of a platform being laid, this gun gradually sunk to the solid bottom of the embrasure, and could net, by any means, be moved. Its situation, luckily, was the most ap- propriate for reaching the frigate, which, in consequence, was obliged to withdraw from the attack. I was now a sort of forlorn being, my father dead, my mother so many hundred miles distant, and with death staring me in the face in various shapes : for the yellow fever was raging frightfully in the camp, or rather negro huts, and I had to superintend the erection of two large redoubts or field works facing the harbour, and withir gunshot of the town of * 'i 85 P«uite-4-Pitre, at which I was obliged to work chiefly during the night. Convict negroes were, unavoidably, employed, the troops being too sickly and scarcely able to perform their garrison and detached duties. Several oompanies could not produce a single man fit for duty ; and so many o&c&ca had died, that field officers were, in the end, compelled to mount aaptain's guard. Every morning we were saluted by some heavy guns from the town, wlaan my working parties scampered away, and I had to return to my negro hut, where I lived with my commanding officer, Captain Dowse, who soon fell sixjk. Fortunately the ordnance surgeon lived with us, like- wise a French officer, an assistant engineer, and our servant, an artillery Stan. In September I became ill ; and, while unable to speak, I heard the surgeon say that it waa all over with me. We remaiued unmolested by the enemy for a short time, having a ship of war on each flank ; but, towards the end of the month, my command- ing officer being too ill, as well as the surgeon, to perform any duty, our French companion requested my leave to visit the head quarters the next day. This request has impressed me with the belief that he anticipated the attack that waa made upon us a few days afterwards, when the ene- my, boldly evading our ships of war, and approaching within gunehot of fi^-pieces, directly cut off any movement. The French, by arming the negroes, formed an overwhelming army against the camp and troops, Beduoed to a small, enfeebled force by the yellow fever. On the morning of October 3, our gun boats were attacked by those of the enemy, and three fresh columns, of one thousand men each, advanced vpoa ufi. In short, we were completely surrounded by land and sea, with three fourths of our soldiers scarcely able to walk. Nevertheless we repulsed imo attacks made by this vastly superior force, increased, as already stated, by the French having put musketry into the hands of the negroes. Cxunp Berville was speedily surrounded, and all communication cut off between the camp and the ships. Three violent assaults were made upon it by the Eepublicans, in all of which they were repulsed, with a loss esti- mated at not less than two thousand men. Resistance, however, though honourable, was soon found to be fruitless. October 6, the British ixosifB surrendered, on condition of being sent to England.* The capitulation was concluded in about nine or ten days afterwards ; it was considered very honourable and favourable, as we were to be for- warded to England aseoon as shipping could be provided ; six weeks being stipulated as the longest period for our detention at Pointe-^Pitre, to which place the captured officers, sixty in number, were sent ; and the Bjcm-Ksotumissioned officers and private soldiers, who were above one thou- sand, were conveyed on board the hulks or prison ships then in the harbour. * The plan of Berville Gamp was found accideatallj among the author's pa- pers. A note in the original attests to the obstinacy with which the ground was contested ; and that on September 30, the first attack commenced at half-past four, and lasted until half-past ei^ht in the morning. The enemy bst nioe hundred men ou that occasiou. . ) i Jr 36 m The surj»eon and my servant died before we capitulated ; and my com- manding officer was so ill, that he was separated from me, and went to the hospital.* On my march from camp to embark for Pointe-d-Pitre, I was taken for, I suspect, our French assistant engineer; and if an immediate ex- planation, to which my imperfect French gave potent certificate of my really being English, had not been made, I should have been escorted and made to join above one hundred royalists, who had fought in our ranks ; and who, being made to kneel along the ditch of one of the re- doubts before mentioned, were deliberately shot, and buried, dead or alive. While we sojourned at Point-drPitre, where for three months we were detained under the closest confinement, the three French Commissioners, the famous Victor Hugues being one, paid a visit to the officers, for the especial purpose of trying to discover whether there were any French aristocrats among us. My regimental coat, very similar to that worn by French engineers, (blue, with black velvet facings, collar and cufia,) caught the eye of the commissioners, and they almost insisted in causing me to be carried to the guillotine that was erected in the market-place, where several poor royalists were daily murdered by that fatal engine ; and from our prison we continually heard the shouts of the populace after each execution. When Victor Ungues heard that Captain Hutton of the artillery, a relation of the celebrated mathematician, was in his power, the respect he entertained for science induced him to order his immediate release. Captain Hutton was also distinguished for his talents, and he excelled as a minute and accomplished draughtsman. I was taken ill, and procured permission to join my esteemed friend and commanding officer, then at the point of death at the French hospi- tal : but I had not been there many days before it was thought expedient to cause three or four other officers with myself to return to Pointe-^ Pitre. I made all the remonstrance in my power, perceiving that my friend, Captain Dowse, wr ", evidently dying, nor did he long survive my removal. I was permitted to go into a lodging, where I hoped to derive benefit from the care of the inmates of the house, a French lady and some smart daughters. But I was not very sorry to be again removed, after witness- ing their enthusaism whenever a cart with five or six decapitated victims passed the door. There was in the house a handsome ^girl of eighteen ; it was her custom to gaze on this cart as it daily passed from the place of execution, filled with headless, streaming trunks, and she literally clapped her hands and shouted as they went by. • The ground whereon these conflicts, so unfortunate for our soldiers, were fought, is laid down in the old maps as surrounded with morass. It is evident that our brave troops held out to the last extremity, and were finally overcome, more by the attacks of that malignant and direful West Indian plague, yellow fever, particularly fostered on this fatal spot from the malaria that escaped from the morasses, than even the numerical superiority opposed to them, com- posed in great part of blacks and mulattoes, in full vigour and health. 87 my About this time, Victor Hugues published at Guadeloupe the following proclammation : " ' LIBERTY, LAW, EQUALITY. " Victor Hugues, Delegated Commissioner of the National Convention to the Windward Islands : — " Whereas the crimes committed by the British officers, as well in the capture as in the defence of the captured islands, exhibited a character of so consummate and odious a villainy as not to be paralleled in history : " And whereas the rights of humanity, of war, and of nations, have been violated by Charles Grey, General ; John Jarvis, Admiral ; Tho- mas Dundas, Major-General and Governor of Guadeloupe; Charles Gordon, a general officer, and other subaltern officers who imitated them : " And whereas, also, the robberries, murders, assassinations, and other crimes committed by them, ought to be transmitted to posterity, it is re- solved that the body of Thomas Dundas, interred in Guadeloupe, 3rd June (slave style), shall be taken up and given a prey to the birds of the air ; and that upon the same spot there shall be erected, at the expense of the Republic, a monument, having on one side this decree, and on the other the following inscription : " ' This ground, restored to liberty by the bravery of Republicans, was polluted by the body of Thomas Dundas, Major General and Governor of Guadaloupe, for the George the Third. In recollecting his crimes, the public indignation caused him to be taken up, and has ordered this monument to be erected, to hand them down to posterity.' " Givenat the Post of Liberty, 10th Frimaire, December 11, 1794, in the third year of the French Republic, one and indivisible. " Victor Hugues. " ViEL, Secretary." Our anxious expectation of embarking for England was, as we thought, shortly to be realized, as transports were preparing ; but the sailors were transferred to the French frigate La Pique ; at which we had frequently fired shot and shells vrhen at Camp Berville. The stern and decks of this frigate were well secured by cotton bags, and our artillery at a long range, she lying at the harbour's mouth. The English frigate Blanche, commanded by Captain Faulkner, daily appeared, to prevent the sailing of the Pique ; but at length the two vessels came to an engagement, which terminated in the capture of the Frenchman. Thus all hope of our removal was cut oflF, and we, the surviving officers, (half of our mess having died), were re- moved to a hulk, where we found about 200 of our soldiers, most of whom, since their imprisonment on board the hulks, had recovered. This change proved likewise most beneficial to us, their officers ; since we there received, through the mercy oi God, renovated health. On board la Bonne Mhe we had to shift for ourselves, the only differ- erence between the accommodation of officers and private soldiers being, \hat cabins were allotted to us. The provisions served out were the 'I !i ii w^ 38 iliil worst description of salt beef and pork, with ^nerally rotten biB- vant, a worthy Scotchman, the same who died of yellow fever in the negro hut at Camp Berville, it was, to my shame, scarcely opened by me; My servant, to whom this Bible had belonged, was a gunner of Boyal Artillery, ami when dying he presented me with it. Between the sale of my own clothing, and some that came into my possession, I managed occasionally to purchase a little cocoa, sugar, &o., uom the provision boats that oame alongside \ or by selling u shirt noit '■( ■ I I i iV and then to one of the negroes on gaard, who looked very smart in theio^ These provision boats, i.bout once a week came alongsido freighted with vegetables, tobacco, coffee, &o., when those who had money availed them- selves of the indulgence to purchase something, though it might bo only pumpkins or horsebeans, which the poorest among us converted into 0om). Eight or nine months of imprisonment had elapsed, when three officers entered into an agreement with about that number of masters of mer-, chant vesHols, their fellow prisoners, to make their escape in one of the provision boats. The scheme was known to the other officers, for it wa4 of importance that the boat should not be overcrowded. No more adven-. tnrcrs into the enterprise were admitted than to man each oar ; intru- ders might therefore expect to be thrown overboard. It was their aim to reach the English fleet, which lay at the anchorage of the Saintes, twenty miles off. Captain Walker conducted the daring exploit ; and, on pain of death, none but those previously agreed on were to attempt to follow. They had no arms but knives ; and, everything being now in readiness^ when the desired boat came alongside, Captain Walker and his party instantly jumped in, threw the coxswain and the black crew, who manned \\,f overboard, and in a n^oment put all to rights for standing to sea. The blacks all swam to the shore, the bowman excepted, a stout mulatto, who begged so hard to accompany them that he was accepted, and he after- wards: proved of the moHt essential service. There was a fine hubbub. It was known that the guard on board the hulk was unprovided with ammunition, and, no sooner was the boat dis- engaged from her, than, disregarding their menaces, the fugitives gave way, shouting with vigour, ' La liberty ou la mort I ' The blacks had sufficient presence of mind, at the moment their oars were wrested from them, to throw the thowel pins into the water ; but Captain Walker, anticipating the probability of such deficiency, had fortunately provided others, without which precaution the boat could not have moved. There was a frigate lying at anchor just behind the prison ship, from which op'> or two rounds of grape were discharged at the fugitives, and QUndry Ijats were despatched in pursuit. Two or three of these boats fortunately rowing direct for the ftigitives, prevented other shots being Qred at the escaping boat, which had to pass very close to an island (Isle Ooohon). Here the original boatman of the provision boat, who had solicited not to be thrown overboard, stood up and called out to the men at the battery that the boats were in pursuit of one that had passed on the other side of the island Knowing the mulatto, this statement dis- tracted their attention, and the pursuing boats got between the British and the battery before more than one or two shots could be discharged. The boat with the fugitives was considered one of the fastest in the harbour, so that only one or two could get within hail. After a chase of three or four miles the pursuit was abandoned ; and our brave fellows eventually got on board a British man-of-war, lying near the island of Saintes, about twenty miles from the harbour of Pointe-jirPitre. When the appointed provision boat came alongside of us, I was play- :Ji! , m !••! 40 II ing chess on dock with an officer, not nmonf; the number of those selected to OHCiipo. Ho instantly run to the side of the ship where the bt)at lay ; and, I presume, on perceiving that the expected nuuiber of merchant captains was not made up, jumped in himself, and another officer, unso- licited, followed his example. When I reached the sides the guard was shouting and preventing any others from approaching the gangway, and we were hurried from tho upper to the lower deck. The residue of prison- erH on board wore almost as delighted us those who had escaped ; it being understood to be their intention to raiiko every OKortion to effijct our release, which proved to be tho case. Two months after this, the remaining officers, about thirty in number, wore suddenly and unexpectedly warned to go on board a schooner brought near tho hulk ; immediately after which, in the night, we were conveved to a largo French frigate, lying at Basseterre, and crammed into the cable- tier. During the same night the frigate shipped her cable and started in the direction of St. Domingo or France, thereby evading our cruisers, which daily hovered in sight. Tho following is an extract from a letter of Sir Charles Shipley to Mr. Durnford's mother relating this circumstance : — " Martinique, December 21, 1795. " My dear Madam, — A combination of misfortunes, since I had the pleasure of seeing you, are at length terminated by my exchange and res- toration to my family. This happy event was brought about by the ex- traordinary, I may say unprecedented, exertions of Mrs. Shipley, which you have in all probability heard of more at length than I have at present time to give. " I am anxious to acquaint you with Mr. Durnford's perfect state of health, and supporting himself with that propriety of conduct which I am sure will preserve it. He is embarked on hoard L' Andromache, French frigate, with General Graham and about thirty other officers captured at Berville Camp. They sailed from Guadeloupe on the 19th November, bound either to St. Domingo or France. But, at any rate, you may be assured that his exchange uannot now be far distant, and rejoice at his re- moval from Pointe4-Pitre. I am happy to hear that the officers of L' Andromache were well disposed to treat the prisoners with all possible humanity and attention. Mr. Durnford messed with me on board the prison ship at Pointe-il-Pitre ; and I trust that our acquaintance so unfor- tunately begun, will, at a future day, be only a subject of merriment at the extraordinary scenes we have passed together." Soon after we were placed in this frigate, an English officer arrived on board with a flag of truce, when, with a Creole officer, I was called into the cabin. The Englishman presented me with twenty half-joes that Sir Charles Shipley had ventured to send me. This was a most season- able and appropriate supply. The general (Graham), who had been an old West Florida friend of my poor father's, gratified me by accepting half of this sum, for he had not a sou at command. We had a prosperous though stormy voyage, reaching Rochelle in less than thirty days. The captain and officers of the frigate obligingly invited 71 41 two of us to dino with thorn ovory Sunday. Whon mv turn came all I cnn remoinber of it is, that the vcssol rolled 80 confoundedly I went without my dinner. Our usual faro while on board this frigate was horsebean Boun, made of salt beef or pork, and bad biscuit. Wo formed a motley looking crow on leaving the ship, many of us clothed in dirty blankets, and afforded mueli diversion to tlie citizens of Rochelle where we landed ; and we were marched through the town to an old convent. Hero the glitter of our gold procured for us an excellent dinner of roast beef and every substantial food we stood so much in need of; and we wore otherwise comfortably accommodated. The prisoners were allowed to draw money from their respective agents, although at very high exohange. The general had selected a few to moss with him, and I was one of the party. War was all this time raging in La Vondde, and troops constantly pass- ing and repassing to and from that scone of mortal strife. The leaders of those troops often called upon our general, and frequently dined with him, sometimes indulging iti great hilarity. After having been between two and three months detained in close con- finement, the period of our imprisonment reached its termination. It was announced to us that a cartel would sail for England, and the general might select an officer to take his despatches. I was the first selected — three other officers were also permitted to avail themselves of the oppor- tunity ; and, after a captivity of seventeen mouths, we landed, with grateful hearts, in Mount's Bay, Cornwall. An account of this expedition, drawn up by the Rev. Cooper Williams, who was with it as Chaplain to His M. ship Boy no, mentions the 70th Begiment having led the attack on Martinique. Pigeon Island annoying them, the 70th Reg. brought two howitzers to place in a battery against it ; and Col. Durnford joined with his company of artificers, causing the garrison to strike its colours, and surrender at discretion in less than two hours. The Commander-in-chief, in the orders after the taking of Pigeon Island (described as a fort of great strength and importance), gives his thanks to all the officers and soldiers employed on that service, naming, among the rest. Col. Durnford of the Engineers. On quitting Martinique, Ensign Gannaway, of the King's Caroline Rangers, is men- tioned as being appointed assistant engineer. Years afterwards, my father applied to Lord Palmerston, and procured a pension for the widow of this officer, a distant connection of the family. As a reward to the army for their gallantry at Martinique, the king's pleasure was signified to them, that in future, while on duty, they should be exempt from paying postage for their letters. When the army left the Bay of Fort Royal, led by Prince William Henry, Col. Durnford's name appears as following with his Engineers. The 70th was one of the four regiments left in possession of the Island. Sir Charles Grey was thanked by the king and both Houses, after the capture of Martinique, and the colours taken were conveyed in great cere- mony to the cathedral church of St. Paul's, and there put up in memorial. ! .\ li L'i 1 ill 1 •^ ^ 1 1 ': ■; 42 SECTION IV. Bristol.— Release from parole. — Mutiny i\t the Noro.-— Mijor Wadman'a Battery aud Oorps of Vutuntoors. A singular ndventuro, literally involving double captivity, oconrrcd to Lieut. Durnford, iniinediately after releaHo from Uoohollo, while viniting at the houne uf liis niutertml uncle, Mr. Walker, who renided at BrifltoK He went to see one of the famous manufaotorieH of that city. Th© workmen employed in it intiiHtcd on his making them a handsome prech OQt in money, before quittini; the house. Ho was surprised at the demand, and rofusi'd compliance. They detained him prisoner fhr seve- ral days, until Mr. Walker, fortunately obtaining the clue to his absence, had him set free, threatening to punish tho men's insolence. The youn|f gentleman, however, gave ,vay to the generosity of forgiveness, and, un- known to Mr. Walker, who was justly incensed by the aflfiront offered to his nephew, sent them a couple of guineas. The chivalrous sense of honour confines by a silken thread tho soldier on his parole, and strikes forcibly as an instance of the power of imagi* nation and rectitude, in combining its endurance with tantalizing impa- tience. This beautiful test of bravo truth and rectitude, — for what is more courageous than truth, — after weighing with its wing of hissitude for several months on Mr. Durnford's youthful ardor, wos pleasingly termi< nated by receiving the following : " London, July 14, 1796. Sir : Capt. Apsley, Secretary to the Master-General of the Ordnance, having signified to Sir William Greenj that he has received from the Transport Board a certificate of your belni exchanged for a French officer, who was on parole in France, I have It in command from Sir W. Green, to inform you, that you are in conse- quence released from your parole to the French government os a prisoner of war. You will therefore hold yourself in readiness for service ; and as soon as Lord Cornwallis's pleasure is known, relative to the statioi\ you are to be appointed to, orders will be transmitted to you accordingly." " I am. Sir, &o., J. ROWLEY, Lt. R. E. & Adjt, " Lieut. Durnford, Corps of Royal Engineers." The closing decades of the 18th century were rife with no visions pro- mising peace. At the period when Mr. Durnford entered upon life, no expectation either of or for it could reasonably be fVamed. The Divine Disposer of all assigned to hira the soldier's inheritance and honourable lot, — he entered upon it as a sanctified patrimony, bequeathed by a parent, whose untimely and regretted end he has recorded; but neither this bereavement, nor his uncle Thomas's early exit, with the recent experience of his own stormy and unsuccessful entrance on the military lire, ccnld daunt his energy and emulation for the profession his portion was cast in since more than ten years afterwards, in 1809, he was with difficulty dissuaded from volunteering his services, to join his brother officers who were preparing to tbllow the Peninsular army. 'Mlli 43 Not to unticipnto. Ho wnii appointod, iramedintoly afler roloam from parolu, to wlnit wiis ouUud a StutF Station, in the ThaineH Dixtriot, at Gravosoiid, aiitl wliilu thoro waH much noticed by tho ^oDtlonien in the noi^hboui-li)M)d. Tho ibllowinf; in a frHf^iuont of tho memoir ho auiused himsolf in noting down very shortly before his dooeaHo : " I piiHsod niy tinio vory ploaHantly at OravoHond, although haying a ffood deal of roHponHibility from my uomuianding offioor, Col. HoUoway's noad ijuartors boing at Woolwich. My duty rc<|uirod many hourw to be spont m boating ; ho that betwoon rowing, shooting, and HometimoH hunt- ing, ploamiro and duty atfordod mo plonty of omployment. Ah I was at first tho oidy officer at GruvcHond, tho Hucoesfiivo arrival» of two yaung artillery officnrs, whom I had known when at Woolwich, gratified me much.^ I wont out one froHty morning to shoot among the marshes^ when incautiouHly sounding tho strongth of the ico I wiHhed to pass — my gun wont off — it pawsod, of course, vory close to ray body. With Lord Darnloy's two troops of yeomanry cavalry I became acquainted during the mutiny at tho Noro. 5ly friend, the artillery officer, and myself were both roused very early one niorning, to attend Sir Charles Hollowav at his office, when he introduced uh to Lord Hertford, who was just arrived to take tho oomnuind of tho military at Gravenend. This was the first notification wo had rcoeived of this second alarming outbreak among the seamon. Search was making throughout the office for plans of batteries, either finished or progressing, for the defence of the Thames bdow Gravesend. Fortunately, I had made rough sketches, and soon produced them. Tho commandant took me home to breakfast, ;>nd detained m& tho remainder of the day in copying his letters, &o. ; ni rwards ho placed me at the bottom of his table. Troops were speedily sent to reinforce the post, and it was my business to issue out the requisite orders." This account is rendered more interesting by referring to the Gazette: " After the suppression of the disturbances among the seamen at Ports- mouth, without any recurrence to violent measures, but by granting their petitions, which was supposed to have given full satisfaction, and removed the causes of discontent, a fresh mutiny broke out in the fleet at th© Noro, May 22, 1797. " The crews on that day took possession of their respective ships, elec- ted delegates to preside over them, and to draw up a statement of their demands, to transmit them to the Lords of the Admiralty. These de- mands went much farther than those of the seamen at Portsmouth and Plymouth, and from their exorbitancy did not appear entitled to the same indulgence. On the 6th June, in the morning, the fleet at the^ Noro was joined by four ships of war, and a sloop,— which ships had deserted from the fleet under Admiral Duncan. When the Admiral found him- self deserted by part of his fleet, he called his own ship's orew together, and addressed them in a speech so unaffectedly manly and touching, as drew tears from every man "'ho heard it. They all declared their reso-' lution to abide by him in life or death, when the Admiral, notwithstand- ing the defection of so considerable a part of his squadron, repaired to' , I ■ . I - ... , ,. — . ^ ■- * One of these was the late Lieut. General Eveleigh, of the Royal Artillery. ii 1' y Il i 1 " ? i ll ill ;i 1ll ; t i 44 his station, off the coast of Holland, to watch the motions of the Dutch fleet, and resolved still not to decline should it offer him battle. " The principal person at the head of this mutiny was one Kichard Parksr. Admiral Buckner was commanding officer at the Nore Great preparations were made at Shcerness, against an attack of the mu- tinous ships, which had manifested some strong indications of an inten- tion to bombard that place ; and furnaces and hot balls were kept ready. All the buoys, by order of the government, were removed from the mouth of the Thames, and the neighbouring coast; from which prci'ution, any ships that should attempt to go away, would be in danger of running aground. " Emboldened by the strength of men and shipping in their hands, and resolved to persevere in their demands till they had extorted com- pliance, the mutineers proceeded to secure a sufficiency of provisions for that purpose, by seizing two vessels laden with stores ; and sent notice ashore that they intended to block up the Thames, and cut off all com- munication between London and the sea, in order to force the govern- ment to a speedy accession to their terms. They began the execution of their menace by mooring four of their vessels across the mouth of the river, and stopping several ships that were coming from the metrop- olis. " They now altered the system of their delegation ; and to prevent too much power from being lodged in the hands of any man, the offic^ of president was entrusted to no man longer than one day. This they did to secure themselves from the attempts to betray them, which might re- sult from the offers held out to those in whom they were obliged to place confidence and authority, were those to possess trust for any time. They also compelled those ships, the crews of which they suspected of wavering in the cause, to take their station in the middle of the others. But notwithstanding these precautions, two vessels eluded their vigilance, and made their escape. " These transactions, while they excited the greatest alarm in the nation, were violently reprobated by the seamen at the two divisions of the fleet lying at Portsmouth and Plymouth. Each of therii. addressed an admo- nition to their fellow-seamen at the Nore, warmly condemning their pro- ceedings, as a scandal to the name of British seamen, and exhorting them to be content with the indulgence already granted by government, and to return to their duty, without insisting on more concessions than had been demanded by the rest of the navy. " But these warnings proved ineffectual. The reinforcement of the four ships lately arrived, and the expectation of being joined by others;, induced them to persist in their demands. The committee of delegates, on board the Sandwich, came to a determination to commission Lord Northesk, whom they had kept in confinement in the Montague, to repair to the king in the name of the fleet, and to acquaint him with the condi- tions on which they were willing to deliver up the ships. The petition which he was charged to lay before the king, was highly respectful and loyal to him j but very severe en his ministers ; and they required an 45 exact compliance with every one of their demands, threatening, on the refusal of any, to put immediately to sea. Lord Northesk readily under- took to be the bearer of their petition ; but told them that, from the un- reasonal)leness of their demands, he could not flatter them with the hopes of success. Confiding in hiLi, they said, as the seamen's friend, they had entrusted him with this mission, on pledging his honour to return with a clear and positive answer in fifty-four hours." (Annual Register.) Mr. Durnford says : " The mutinous seamen, as is well known by every body, had completely blockaded the Thames, and several times entertained thoughts of attacking Gravesend. It was reported in that town, that the mutinous ships at the Nore meditated the release of a line of battle ship lying with her guns pointed at the doors of the magazines at Purfleet,* and whose captain and oflBcers, the crew had confined in the cabin. One ship actually passed the lowest battery, of which the artil- lery officer stationed there sent me an express report. We first saw her under sail about three miles below the battery nearest to Gravesend. Tilbury fort had been for some days manned by two companies of the Gravesend Volun^^eer Artillery, and the shot furnaces which we had worked hard in preparing were ready. At these furnaces we worked by night as well as d.ay. " No sooner did this ship come within range of his guns, than my friend, the artillery officer, fired a shot across her bow, on which as she did not shorten sail he sent another through her foresail. The anchor was immediately dropped, and the sails furled. This proceeding, at that moment of exceeding anxiety, occasioned us all great delight. Expresses of dragoons had been passing constantly between London and Gravesend. ^ fter this vessel, which was a 74, came to anchor, we observed a boat put from her and pull towards the town. The commandant immediate- ly ordered me to take a non-commissioned officer and party of dragoons, and walk to meet the boat, from which several men were soon seen to land, and come up the river embankment. We met them about half a mile below our fort ; when, as they represented that they had a memorial to present, we accordingly escorted them to the garrison." Brenton in his naval history sa.js : "On the 27th of May a party of delegates had gone up the river Thames, and endeavoured to persuade the cre'^vs of the ships lying at long reach to join them, and drop down to the Nore ; but they were fired at by the fort at Tilbury, and having landed at Gravesend, were taken into custody by the loyal inhabitants, but by some means they regained their liberty. " While on the way," Mr. Durnford continues, " the sailors having made some remarks on the description of carbines the dragoons carried, one of them replied, their weapons were excellent, and they also understood how they should be used ; and they would use them, if there w. s necessity. This indicated sufficiently the disposition of the soldiery. The sailors, after the delivery of the written statement they were the bearers of, were escorted back by the same party to their boat; and the next day, a cap- \\ I I ,. I i\- ' : tain of dragoons was sent to visit the ship lying at Purfleet, to let the mutinous seamen, in whose possession she was, know that at the first shot they should presume to fire, the man-of-war should be sunk. Their object in placing this large skip at Purfleet was, to enable them, as they threatened, to blow up the powder magazines, should their demands be unattended to. To divert them from this alarming threat, a heavy Brigade of Boyal Artillery and heavy howitzers \.ere planted on the eminence overhanging the storehouses. Wet blankets were spread over the roofs of the magazines and neighbouring buildings, on which engines oonstantly played. It has been asserted, the soldiers refused to fire on the seamen, or to man the batteries. This is untrue. The batteries wwe manned by Gravesend Volunteers, of which I was an eye-witness." So far is Mr. Durnford's account. Other statements also say, the mosk intense excitement prevailed along the stations down the Thames. All ranks prepared to act on the defensive. Furnaces for heating balls were hastily constructed, and the balls were kept red hot, ready for instant use day and night. The task of constructing and superintending ihe efficiency of these furnaces devolved on Mr. Durnford. The village of Northfleet quartered the lOth Dragoons, the Prince of Wales' Regiment, commanded by Colonel Slade ; and the 11th Hussars, commanded by Colonel Nesbitt. Lord Darnley had two troops of yeo- manry, and the Northfleet Volunteers had Major Wadman at their head. This gentloman, who had for many years enjoyed the place of Gentleman Usher of the Princess Amelia, sister to the king, George the Third, had married Miss Mary (or, according to the fashion of the day, commonly called Miss Molly) Comyns, the heiress of Thomas Chiffinch, Esq., He threw up a battery on his own grounds, which overlooked the river Thames ; though not before having undergone some remonstrances from bis military friends, who succeeded at last in convincing him of the ille- gality of planting guns without the authority and consent of Parliament. This Colonel Holloway, R. E., arranged for him. The remains of the little battery are still to be seen. My mother, the narrator of the follow- ing pleasing trait of loyalty, was at this time an inmate of Mr. Wadman's house, and a near relative to his lady : " I came into the dining room at the Hive one morning, and found Mr, Wadman in earnest conversation with a fine young man, an artilleryman, Mr. Wadman said, ' Why, what a depression you will give to it ?' 'Yes sir,* the soldier answered, * but consider the height the gun will have.' I soon discovered that Mr. Wadman was intending to construct a battery at his own expense in his private grounds, as there was a mutiny in the fleet. This was the first mention I heard of it. The artilleryman did not altogether enter into the projector's views ; and Mr. Wadman was confi- dent in being right. The same day. Colonel Holloway, R. E., as was his custom, called, * Now Holloway,' he said to him, *you must stay and dine with us.' At dinner, the conversation turned on the same subject, ' Wad- man,' the Colonel said, ' you have done wrong, I wonder you did not employ a properly qualified person to survey your ground, and then have had it officially reported ; — there is an act of parliament forbidding per- 47 sons to fortify their grounds, or erect batteries on their estates : — now this which you ought to havv<» done in the first place, I have had pei> jformcd for you. I have repcr ^d it for you, and had it surveyed. You were acting directly contrary to the authority of Parliament.' Mr. Wad- man listened to all this, though hard to be persuaded. In short, they forced the loyal gentleman to (rive up his plan of the intended battery near the rabbit warren, just above the India arms, and let the engineers have it constructed all their own way. The battery was finished and a very pretty little one it was." When the battery was completed, General Fox came from Chatham with his staff, and tJiere was a regular review on Mr. Wadman's grounds of the Northfleet Volunteers. These, with their majorat their head, turned out very w^Vi and went through a number of field manoeuvres. The corps was composed principally ot' ohalk-wharfers, who, at this period of daring exigency, mounted guard and performed military duty with the utmost energy and promptitude. Nothing was wanting to convey the impres- sion that all was in readiness for actual service ; and two baggage waggons, placed in the reiu*, occasioned a smile on the countenances of some of his military guests. Mr. Wadman pointed to them and said, it was in th^n, m case of necessity, " he designed to place the ladies of his family." The same morning, General Fox with his suite, dined at his mansion, " the Hive." A valet engaged a lodging for his master of a respectable female, the proprietress of a toy and shoe shop at Gravesend. Owing to the recent influx of stangers, the good woman demanded for it what she considered an exorbitant sum, viz., seven shillings and sixpence per week ; but after- wards hinted that had she been aware at the time the Marquis of Hert- ford was to be occupant, she would have " made bold to have said half a guinea." To return to the mutineers, " Lord Northesk departed accordingly for London, and was introduced by Lord Spencer to the king. But no answer being returned to the message, and information being brought t< the fleet, that the nation at large highly disapproved of their proceed! ig^, great divisions took place among the delegates, and several of tli^ Hhips deserted the others, not however, without much contest and bloc od. The mu- tineers, despairing now of accomplishing their designs, strui the red flag, which they had hoisted as the signal of mutiny, and restored u free' f)a8- sage to the trade of the metropolis. Every ship was now left at i i - ovra command, and they all gradually returned to obedience ; though, on boai d of some, violent struggles happened between the mutineers and the loyal pjffties." After the compromise was effected, which obliged the mutineers to deliver up their principal leader, Richard Parker, he was tried on board the Neptune, and sentenced to death ; which sentence was executed on board the Sandwich, at Blackstakes, June 30, 1797. During the trial, which lasted three days, Lieut. Durnford saw him several times. " Some persons strongly suspected that there were among the mutineers, in^viduals who acted the part of emissaries from the enemy, and strove to push them OB to extremities. Certain it is, that when the news of 4he f:\ i M li •"^^m :i I jl III i i^ !| 1 ! ! 1 i I f 1 i fiii: ■ "l! 'I 48 mutiny at Portsmouth arrived at Paris, it excited great satisfaction, in the republican party. Sanguine hopes were immediately conceived that it might prove the prelude to more serious insurrections ; at all events, the desertion of the British navy was an incident that prognosticated, in the imagination of the French, all kinds of disasters to the country. Deprived of this indispensable support, at a period when it was more than ever needed, Great Britain would lose at once its influence in the aff"uirs of Europe, and sink into a state of absolute insignificance. That awe, in which it had kept surrounding nations would vanish; none of them would any longer either dread its power or court its alle- giance : its very political existence, as an independent country, would become precarious ; and nothing, in short, of its former strength and im- portance would remain." Such were the subjects of exultation through- out France, on this critical occasion. The following paragraph from the same source, may assist in forming a judgment on the panic terror experienced throughout the nation. " In- structions were issued relative to the baggage and marches of the army, in case the enemy landed in England, which had bee:i sent to all generals, and all officers commanding regiments. Plans of general associations of the inhabitants of parishes, to serve without pay for the protection thereof, in case of any emergency, at the requisition of the civil power, to be submitted to the consideration of a vestry to be called for that pur- pose. Female householders allowed to sign by delegates." SECTION V. Portsmouth. — Ireland. — Barracks built there. — Death of Mr, and Mrs.Wadman.— ^ Various anecdotes. — Family meeting. — Capt. Philip Durnford's Diary kept at Sea. — Col. Sheldrake. From the Staff Station at Gravesend, my father was removed to Ports- mouth, and placed under the command of the father of his friend, the young artillery officer, Col. Eveleigh. He made frequent trips while on duty there to the Isle of Wight, and Hurst Castle, and was also sent on some service to the Island of St. Marcou. The last named was famed for its fish, turbot and lobsters, as well as noted for silks, cambrics, and shawls. Specimens of all these he brought home with him as presents to his friends. In 1801, he was ordered to Ireland. There he was employed in plan- ning and building large barrack establishment'^ for the Royal Artillery and Driver Corps, at Limerick, Clonmell, and \'^aterford; besides carry- ing on works of a less scale at Kilkenny, Duncniuon Fort, Hook Tower, and the Pigeon House. Once, at the request of General Sir John Floyd, he drew a plan for barracks to accommodate a large number of troops ; which, though never built. Sir John expressed himself much pleased with. Most of these works were, owing to the distracted state of the country, and continued apprehensions entertained, under operation at the same time. The fatigue and anxiety consequent on this multitude of labours large 49 were great, since the plan and direction of the whole devolved on himself; and frequently was he engaged in dictating correspondence to four clerks till early in the morning; while at other times he would travel till long past the midnight hour, generally for greater expedition on horseback, from one post to another as his superintendence was most required. Capt. Durnford, when stationed at the Pigeon House, Dublin, was en- gagea in the sinking of a deep well on the pier. It was his custom fre- quently to descend himself. On one occasion when a general oflBc«r visited the pier, and went to view the well, he enquired for Capt. Durn- ford, and could with difficulty be persuaded that tlie drenched figure who had just emerged from the shaft was really that officer. On one occasion a report reached him that a great run had been made on the Waterford Bank, in which for greater security he had lodged a large sum of public money ; he immediately rode with much expedition and apprehension to Waterford, and fortunately found the affiiirs of the bank retrievable. Though well known by the peasantry, at that period by no means loyally inclined, throughout the counties in which his labours were situated, he met with invariable good will from them, being always greeted with a friendly, " God save your honour ! long life to your honour !" While stationed at Duncannon Fort, it so happened that Lord Gough, then a very young man, and several other officers, came from Waterford, where their Regiment was quartered, to see some races run on the Strand, or more literally " the Sands." The village had no inn ; and, after the sport, the strangers partook the refreshment of lunch with Captain and Mrs. Durnford, to whose table they were equally welcome as unexpected. It was the birthday of one of their infants, and the plum- cake prepared for the occasion gave zest to the wine drank to the boy's health. The officers made the droll mistake of addressing the servant as a gentleman, but took leave with thanks for their friendly reception. Capt. and Mrs. Durnford were invited to a ball and supper, given by the same Regiment shortly after, and Mrs. Durnford went to Waterford for the purpose of purchasing a dress to wear at it. A beautiful India mus- lin was selected, eleven shillings the yard. This incident and its conse- quence was quite a little era in her domestic and retired life at this period. To return from private life and excursive details to more serious aflFairs. The exact nature of Captain Durnford's undertakings will be understood by perusing the subjoined extract : " From the report on the Ordnance Department in Ireland, by the Hon. W. W. Poole, Clerk of the Ordnance, Oct. 25, 1805, Limerick : ' My order, directing that the work ordered by the Board of Limerick should be carried on by Captain Durnford on account of the Ordnance, in- stead of the contract as directed by the Board, was given in consequence of the offers from the contractors being completely unsatisfactory. The temporary establishment ordered for the assistance of the engineer in car- rying on the works at Limerick appeared absolutely necessary, and* in my opinion is as moderate as the nature of the case will admit. I have every reason to believe that the service will be most materially benefited by this arrangement. At Limerick, I met Captain Durnford ; and ou •'! 60 ii i; t, 1 t 1 n 1 ' ' i:|i^ h July 28, he began to make his arrangements for carrying into execu- tion the plan for the new establishment as approved by the Board, and which I had directed should be carried on by the engineer instead of by contract. It is impossible for me to speak in terms too high of my sense of Captain Durnford's merit. He is not to be surpassed in zeal, assi- duity, perseverance, integrity, and activity. No difficulty deters him, and no fatigue overcomes or alarms him. I have added (marked I in the appendix) a traced plan of the establishment at Limerick, with the pro- gress made on the buildings on September 27, 1805 ; and I beg the Board to observe that not a spade had been put in the ground on July 28 last, nor had any materials been collected. '* There was also a combination of workmen against Captain Durnford, which, however, his steadiness and prudence soon overcame. I think I need do no more than desire the Board to examine the report of the progress at Limerick, as it appears upon the traced plan, in order to induce them to recommend Captain Durnford to the notice of the Master- General. I shall have occasion to mention him again in a subsequent part of my report, and the Board will find that his labours have been equally beneficial to the service at other stations. — Clonmel. Before my arrival at Clonmel, I was happy to find ev«ry thing which I had ordered, had been performed under the direction of Capt. Durnford in a most masterly manner." The labourers employed in raising these works were principally Irish- men ; and frequently in the vicinity of these towns, as evening approached, the hills surrounding them would be lighted up with blazing signal fires. The house in which he resided at Clonmel was so originally constructed, that his three horses walked through the hall its full length, to and from a stable situated at the back of the house, there being no other ingress or communication with the street. Several pleasing traits fell under his observation. A poor man once brought a basket filled with eggs as a present to his honour for having given work to his son, nor could he be in- duced to accept payment for it. Ano' • er man, suffering under low fever, he requested Mrs. Durnford to supply with nourishment. A trusty female servant entering the cabin on this errand, found the wife in ^e same debilitated state, who expressed her thanks with much volubility to the lady, as good nurse was styled by these simple people, one of whom in the climax of her feelings, exclaimed, "and honey, only think too of her being a Protectant !" Once on a shooting excursion over the Tipperary mountains, his com- panion unfortunately met with a serious accident of putting his knee- pan out of its socket. The pain was intense, there was no surgical advice to be procured ; the sufferer, Captain Godfrey, was a man of remarkable height and athletic proportions ; when Capt. Durnford, who was small in person, at once applied his great muscular strength, and pushed the bone into its proper place. Capt. Durnford's period of service in Ireland extended to some years, during which time both Mr. and Mrs. Wadman died. The first has already been mentioned as the patriotic gentleman who threw up a bat. 51 tery at his own cost and on his own grounds, when the mutiny at the Nore created so much sensation and alarm : the last was the affectionate friend and cousin of the three daughters of George Mann, Esq., a young lawyer of Gravescnd. These little girls lost both parents while the last born was still in infancy ; and circumstances, which the family are now igno- rant of, led to their being finally consigned to Mrs. Wadman's care, Jane Sophia, the youngest, became the wife of Captain Durnford. It is believed that Mr. Chiffinch, the uncle of Mr. Wadraan, or Thomas Chif- linch, Esq., on his niece's marriage with Mr. Wadman, made a codicil to his will, leaving the whole of his fortune, in the event of her having no issue, to the children of Mr. George Mann. This codicil was never signed, and therefore her estate was placed wholly at her own disposal : it must at one time have amounted to upwards of £110,000, and was greatly, as would appear, squandered by her thoughtless husband, through her own want of firmness in its management. Her first meeting with Mr. Wadman was at Nash's Assembly Rooms, Tunbridge Wells. Mrs, Durnford always described and believed herself to have been their favourite, never speaking of them throughout her life but in terms of filial reverence and affection. They must have been eccentric though excel- lent people : a lavish expenditure of his wife's handsome fortune, forms, however, a drawback on Mr. Wadman's character. Money is said to go like water ; and in whatever way Mr. Wadman squandered it, certain it is that she who had been proprietress of so many fair acres of land, and so many thousands of pounds in money, found herself when dying not only fortuneless, but actually destitute. Mrs. Durnford remembered that lawyers often came from London to their house, " the Hive ;" and at such times Mrs. Wadman would be agitated, and suffer her naturally placid temper to become almost stem to her young wards, when, as is now sup- posed, she was signing away property and money that otherwise would have descended to them, — for Mr. and Mrs. Wadman had no children. The heiress, the accomplished lady who bee the soubriquet of " The Lily," from her delicate complexion and spotless reputation, thus become a wreck of fortune, was forced in old age to solicit actual relief from Cap- tain and Mrs. Durnford ; and £20 was a welcome boon to her. Mr. Wadman lived to a great age ; and to within a short time before his death, was accustomed to walk to Lis house in London, in Wimpolo street, a distance from the Hive of 23 miles, and return in the same man- ner. Believing that every reminiscence of the departed and the good from whom we claim descent, and to whose memory we owe respect, must be acceptable in after years, some characteristic anecdotes are subjoined, taken down as they fell from the lips of my mother in relating them to her daughters, and they are preserved as nearly a.s possible in her own words. I often say to mama, " how very amusing your stories are, I enjoy so much hearing them 1" " Oh ! but you should have heard them told by Mr. Wadman and Captain Smith ; my version is nothing." Now, for ill « i J ; ' »■' >' ' li IK J \i T* li n; H I ill ^1 If r. Mr mi 52 my memory is most treacherous, I note down that Mr. Wadman was gentleman usher to the Princess Amelia, sist«f to George the Third j and Captain Smith filled the same office to another Princess. I do not venture to hint the thing before my mother, but certainly the manners and language of the times we live in are less coarse than in those days. The other night we all laughed when mama told us, that Mr. Wadman always said ho never got drunk but twice in his life (and his was an Irishman's life) ; and one of those times was, when he dined alone with the six maids of honour. I don't know what the other occasion was. Previous to Mrs. Wadman's marriage, and when she was Miss Mary Comyns, in making an excursion through Derbyshire, she stopped to dine at Matlock. Such was the comparative barbarism of the best inn the town afforded between the years 1780 and 1790, that towards the end of dinner, happening to lean for support against the back of her chair, shg was terrified by a loud crash, occasioned, as soon discovered, by the fall of plates, knives, forks, and what not, the waiter had deposited there by way of sideboard. Often has dear mama told us, that Miss Mary Comyns opened house for her nephew Comyns on his coming of age, when herself a very young woman. This gentleman, happening soon after the event to dine out, returned home in raptures with the beauty of a young lady he had met on his visit. He described her as the most beautiful woman he had seen in his life. Mrs. Wadman, or rather Miss Comyns, nothing doubted but the conquest was a secure one. But lo I the changeableness of man ! the next day, dining out again, again the youth came home in raptures. He had met another lady (he threw himself flat on the carpet, with his face to the floor), whose beauty, he declared, as far exceeded that of the first as the splendour of the moon exceeds that of the smallest star. Well, this lady became his bride, but mama thought her more re- sembling the full moon in size than in lustre, calling her " a great coarse woman." No doubt this judgment was passed many years afterwards. In those days the ladies wore a sort of handkerchief called a buffon : it was a light puffy thing, but very pretty. Mrs. Comyns was sitting at the head of her table carving green peas, and had on an enormous buffon ; she helped and helped, and called more than once to the butler to take it away. The man stood confounded. " My dear Mrs. Comyns, you have no plate before you," somebody said. Mrs. Comyns, to be satis- fied of the truth, was necessitated to place herself completely sideways on her chair. She had indeed served on the table cloth. This lady was extravagant, and got her husband into difficulties. To restrain her over-profusion, he one day gave orders that she should have no more hot suppers. The first cold supper placed before her happened to be green peas. It was considered rather barbarous in the spouse, but, alas ! how times are altered ! Many husbands now-a-days would not even allow their wives as much. ' > ' > Miss Jane Mann, or, in other words, my mother, was often invited when a school girl to take a dose of divinity, as Miss Mary Bell called it, at X 53 the dinner table of Dr. Bell, one of the Prebends of Westminster Abbey. Mrs. Brett's Girls' Seminary fronted the door of the Abbey, leading into Poets' Corner in those days, as it does now. Dr. Bell had been a suitor of Mrs. Wadman, and was rejected like many others, the world perhaps falsely judged would have been more suitable for her than the gentle- man she chose. The family consisted of the Doctor and his two maid- en sisters : they were all advanced in life, and pursued each their pecu- liar habits and fashions, as well as distinct acquaintance. The ladies had by turn the use of the carriage. Miss Mary had been a great belle and beauty in her day, and still preserved in her toilette all the coquetry of her youth, being remarkable for her high-bend-dresses and long col- oured satin trains. Short sleeves were then ^^o universally worn, tliat even the governess of my mother's school, jim old lady upwards of 70, wore her long kid gloves. The Doctor liad been Chaplain to the Prin- cess Amelia, sister to George the Third. Miss Howard one day dined with him. It was during that awful time when each account from France told that tlie blood of some new scion of royalty was shed, She was the Princess's lady; and Mr. Wadman, from whom most likel? the account comes, was doubtless of the party ; as Doctor Bell, Mr. Wad- . man, and Miss Howard, were attached to the same royal lady's house- hold. Miss Howard cried all dinner time, while the doctor kept saying, " My dear Miss Howard, you must keep up your spirits, you must keep up your spirits." The topic was the death of the Princess Lamballe. Mr. Wadman possessed an infinite fund of humour, besides great knowledge of the world. He was an elegant dancer, and a thorough quizzer and mimic. He excelled in taking off old ladies at the faro table, in the costume of his day, with their painted faces, false hair, and (what I believe most rational persons of the present time are ready to pronounce a more useful and comfortable deceit,) false teeth. He was fond too of taking off another fashion of younger ladies, as they walked about the streets of London with short sleeves, long gloves to the elbows, muffs, and poor, cold, red, naked elbows in frosty weather. But some of his tales of gambling tables are scarcely to be called ridiculous. He went one night to Brookes', in St. James Street, and General came in, and sat down to a rubber. Before the cards went round, the General said, " Gentlemen, I want ten thousand pounds to finish my house ; I must have it." He rose with £20,000 in his pocket. Sometimes, when a party of twenty or thirty persons were assembled before dinner in the drawing-room of the Hive, the door would be thrown open ; Mr. Wadman would enter ; and, without taking any no- tice of the assembled visitors, dance through the whole of the Minuet de la Cour, singing all the time with the utmost gravity. All present would be convulsed with laughter : Mrs. Wadman, who could enjoy it as much as the rest, now and then said, " Mr. Wadman, my dear, don't you see your company ?" But, without paying any attention, he would proceed to the gavotte ; and, when that was nearly finished, generally pretended to tread on the train, or stumble over the foot of either the I t 1 ! 1 l4i 1 Mili ' i ! .!l7 w ■►'1 64 ^'1 lady highcHt in runk, or the most admired belle proBont ; then, affecting much amazement, exclaim, " Lord bless mo I how did you come here?" His dancing was very graceful. I cannot refrain from mentioning his breakfast : two rounds or hHcoh of very thin toasted bread, on which ho spread a quantity of butter ; this, as the toast was hot, would soon melt, and over it salt in profusion was sprinkled. Honey on this : and again another layer of butter, an- other layer of salt, the whole surmounted by honey. This he took every morning for breakfast, and a basin of milk. Mr. and Mrs. Wadman, with mama and her sister Elizabeth, after- wards married to Mr. Clement Kirwan, both at the time young girls, were dining in London with Mrs. Ormsby Gore. Soon after they were sat down, Mrs. 0. said, ** I hope you are not very fond of cheese, for I fear there is but a small piece to-day." They all assured her they did not care about it, which was in fad the truth. During the second course, she apologized, adding, " You will be surprised at the piece I have to pro- duce." At length, the little bit made its appearance, and proved an entire cheese of so immense a size, as nearly to cover the width of the dining table — a liberal present that morning from the country. When any particular company came to the Hive, a mixture in a cov- ered silver cup was served round between courses at dinner, out of which the visitors drank promiscuously. Its ingredients were, two bot- tles cider, half of wine, a lemon sliced, sugar and, nutmeg to correspond. It never went by any other name than Cup. I suppose it answered to the wassail goblet of the old Knglish Baron. Mr. Wadman was a tem- perate man, and considered by his friends to be no judge of wine. After dinner often, while his visitors were drinking and toasting each other, he would mix a little of diflForent kinds in his wine-glass, as he said, to improve them, and called the mixture matrimony. On Sir John Dyke's estate, in Kent, for some years there lived a gentleman, whose poverty appeared great, and scanty visible support un- known. By what accident he first came to settle on that particular spot, mama did not recollect; but miserable though the old man seemed, most persons on the estate fancied him to be a miser, and expected a hoard would come to light on his demise, particularly as he was earnestly punctual in making a will. After his death the will was opened ; but, to the surprise of his acquaintance, no money, but bitter curses were be- queathed therein ; terrible curses and imprecations against the Premier, and every member and shoot of the Walpole family. Mama never heard that any person belonging to the Dykes was in the secret of the cause for this shocking enmity. Mr. Francis Wadman had a nephew frequently with him at the Hive, who professed himself a Jacobin, and advocated universal equality. He would wish to set down titles, and dwelt much on the absurdity of styling men Esquires. A young lady, present on one of these occasions, asked how he would, for example, wish to be addressed. " Simple, John Wadman," he laconically replied. One morning, at breakfast, the post coming in, my aunt Elizabeth took up a letter, and called out " Hey ' „ \ '•nA» 65 ' m < 1 I . \\Mi or spring boing visible in tbe centre; a drop of martyr's blood they sup. pose iiii^Iit have been within. It was of solid gold, and when bestowed was ricldy studded with precious stones. Not much to the credit of those to whose keeping it successively fell, at the time it became the Miss Manns, few of these were remaining. Tradition related in regard to this remarkable gift or legacy, that one lady had rifled it of a beautiful stone, and lier child died shortly after ; another had coveted and again taken a jewel, and the deatli of her husband followed; every one whose possession it became in like nianner abstracted itH diamonds, pearls and rubii'S, but punishment as surely followed the spoliation. My father accompanied Miss Mary Mann, when she at the reijuest of her sisters finally disposed of it to llundell, the London jeweller, for tlie sum of twenty guineas, and certainly not long after. Miss Mary, the betrothed of Mr. Wynn, died. The premature death was attributed to a cold caught the next day by getting wet feet. She was consum})tively inclined, and of a delicate constitution. Mr. Wynn had married another lady, and was the father of a family when he was at Newfoundland. It was either shortly before, or directly after, my parents' marriage this took place, and at the time its disposal caused neither regret nor thought in the parties concerned. Mrs. Wadman was conscientiously pious and a Protestant, yet she de- rived most of her fortune from one of the ChifRnchcs, three brothers, who were noted friends and boon companions of Charles the Second. She fre- quently boasted that this Chiflinch was with Charles in his exile, and the only one of his followers whom he rewarded for liilelity to the royal cause. Many piMsons are of opinion that this relative of Mrs. Wadman is not to bo confounded with a brother of the same name, who was known to be induli^cnt to the faults of his sovereign; and as Evelyn mentions a Chiifmch in terms of regard, no doubt this view is the right one. His remains lie in Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey, just under Garrick's.* Mama never visited the Abbey without pointing it out to her children. It cannot be controverted that he was the same person who introduced by a back stairs a Popish priest to the dying king. Many fine portraits hung on the Hive walls, of the leading characters of the last Stuart branch ; they were supposed to be heirlooms. Among them was a beautiful female, or a lovcly portrait of one, wearing a red rose ; and it was whis- pered in the admiring gazer's ear, that this flower adorned the Pretender's wife. Mrs. Wadman's maiden name of Comyns, however, was derived from a rnoc of lawyers, among whom the Lord Chief Justice Comyns was distinguished as a voluminous writer, and his niece, (Mrs. W.) was ac- customed to say of him, that every word he wrote was law. Mr. George Mann, again, the father of her three cousins, the Miss Manns, was de- voted as already stated to the legal profession. He was taken off by con- • Evelyn, in his Diary, says of him, 'I dined at Chiffinch's House Wftrming, in St. James's Park : he was his Majesty's Closet keeper, and had his new house full of new pictures, &c. There dined with us Russel, Popish Bishop oi Cape Vcrd, who was sent out to uegociate his Majesty's match with the Infanta of Portugal after the Ambassador was returned. MJ 67 sumption when little past thirty, and his wife at twenty scvon. He lost several infant sons hy death, previous to tlie birth of liin three daughtora. To return from this digression. The town of 8t. Johns stands lining the harbour, and between the two little posts of Fort Williaui and Fort Townshoad, each with a small garrison of troops ; and but from the closo proximity of tiers or stages of scaffoldiiiu; for drying the fur-famed cod- fish, would bo a desirable residence. Cd\)t. Durnford, when stationed at St. Johns, threw up fresh batteries, and riipaired and improved, in some oases, entirely rebuilding such as were falling to decay. The Queen's battery and a large block house on Signal Hill were among the newly constructed ; Frederick, Amherst, and Chain Hock among those repaired and newbuilt. To carry on these works, continual excavations in the rocky soil by means of trains of gunpowder were necessary, and he had frequent cause to lament the foolhanliness of the workmen, who would linger after the ivarning horn had told that a slow match was lit. A sap- per was blown up by its exploding force, entirely in consequence of the man's own dearly paid for neglect : and at tlie moment Captain Durn- ford, walking up to his quarters on Signal Hill, with his little son, wit- nessed the explosion from no great distance, suddenly exclaming, ' a luan in the .air I' Captain Durnford's amiable and gentlemanly manners and character gained him the favour of the General commanding, Francis IMoore, to whom he continued Aid-de-Camp, until the rapid promotion of (hose awful and eveniful years raised him successively to the ranks of Brevet- Major and Lieutenant-Colonel. While war flapped its lurid wings over Europe and America, — and neve . was purpose more righteous than that which opposed its progress, — every honest man's heart responded to the virtuous obligation and awakening call. Indignation swelled but the more at each rumour of its reverses and the joy with which the news of a victory was received, gained ac- knowledgment at St. Johns, and was rendered in the individual pride and ecstacy accompanying the salute and volley, pealing from its rock- planted battewes, and strongest mustered parade-j ; cheerfully commenced by the ships of war lying in the harbour, followed up by enthusiastic cheers from the seamen and troops, each crag and rock echoing loudly every discharge. Colonel Durnford took pleasure in studying himself and exercising the company of sappers under his command in tactics, whenever leisure permitted ; sparing himself no fatigue in bearing a share in the garrison duty, often in this severe climate amounting to dangerous, though such duty was not strictly requirable from his corps. He often spoke with satisfaction of a parade on the commemoration of a signaJ overthrow Napoleon had sustained, where his newly -practised sappers dis- played great steadiness when formed in line with the Newfoundland regiment. Three volleys were to be fired ; and when the commandant's first word of command was misunderstood by the rest of the line, and a scattered irregular fire in consequence given, the company of sappers re- served their fire to a man, until ordered to arm to the post and shoulder, when the volley was properly executed, eliciting on the field the verba' approbaiion of the general. % ■' I'l i<-*! ■i^h u;.\ m ■ m # 68 In the American wnr, Newfoundland suffered cruelly. The commer- cial intercourse with the harbour of Ht. Julms waH obHtructcd in IHII, while destitute of the protection of any Khip of war, by tho appear- ance of an American armed vessel very near to tho entrance. TImh ulannod tlio niereliants, who innnediattjly applied to Oeneral MfM)re for the aid of fifty volunteers from the troops in garrison, who decided that each corps should furnish a proportionate f(uota. Two corporals and six privates of sapjHjrs, cheerfully joined tho other dotacluueiits, and embarked in a bri^ litttid out by the merchants. As soon as the American saw the movement of the British vessel, it took its departure, an(l was not again seen. Deep snow and hijjjh drifts debarred, during tho long winter months, all field exercise to the troiis; though fearful at this season were the risks to which the soldiers on duty, visiting officers, and relieving parties, were exposed. The sentinel was not unfreciuently found fro/en to death, and while the tempest of a poadriv, was battling, life was often hazarded in visiting by night the various detached posts. Wliile tho intense frost hung into icicles the breath from tho nostrils and lips, and nipt with the pang of extreme cold the extremities of the human body, the strict discipline of war was maintained at St. Johns, and no relaxation of its severity permitted. Coloiicl Durnford took his regular turn in the gar- rison duty, first as captain, latterly as field officer. lie took pleasure in the regularity and exact observance of morning parades ; and whilst per- forming the services of an aid-de-camp, prided himself in mounting on these occasions an old charger of the Duke of Kent's, a faithful bay, that in memory of gone bye distinction, alwav irsisted in stepping foremost of the general's staff. There was but one Episcopal Church in the town, in which the Kev. David Rowland, a Welsh clergyman, of some learning, officiated. Mrs. Durnford heard this amiable man relate, while dining in company with him at general Moore's table, that in his youth a company of strolling players travelling through Wales, got up a play in a barn fit the village he resided in. The country people, to most of whom such a spectacle was a novelty, flocked to the sight; as for himself, neither thinking of, nor suspecting harm, he went likewise. The play was Pizarro. It went on very well — he was entertained — and liked it much, until that part of the piece was represented, where the Virgins of the sun use prayer to, and worship their Deity. " Then," he said, " it rushed to my mind that such a scene was in reality a mockery of the true (Jod, and, shocked with the idea, I have never entered the theatre since." Extravagant as some of the Quakers' opinions are, there is certainly a charming simplicity and amiable courage about them, particularly in their women. Mama happened to be spending a religious evening at the house of this same clergyman, and in company with a very old, bat most beautiful lady, of the persuasion of Friends. The clergyman, though a truly pious and well informed person, was far from being ready a extempore speaking, and possessed at times an almost painful portion of timidity. It was his task to open the Bible, select a portion, and G9 addrosg his company. TTo felt ni a loss, and rested Tor some niinuto? with hiH hand on the holy unclosed volume. The dear old womnt read what passed within him ; every one was silent ; wlien at once wit! a plain hut touehinj^ eloquoiico of onooura^ement, she said, " Fear no my friend." The j^ood man felt instantly at ease, and proceeded wit» earnestness and feeling. To assist in keeping alive the spirits of the troops, during the tcdiun of the dreary winter montlis, a mock fight was sometimes carried on, upon one of the frozen lakes, and the Irish game of curling was en- couraged whenever tlic sea in the harhour took, or became iee-bouiid. But a more awful and alarming duty too frecjuciiitly called forth the utmost energy of cxerti'ni, in the frequent fires, which, often originating from a falling 8])ark, wovdd rapidly kindle the wooden streets into con- flagration, and turn adrift and nouselcsa the helpless families. The dreaded alarum drum was generally heard on the stillest and coldest nights, imperatively rousing from sleep; and intense would be the agita- tion if the slightest movement was in the air, as to what point of the compass the destroying or preserving breeze veered. On these dis- tressing occasions, always the most ready and foremost in setting an example of hazard and daring to the soldiers, Colonel Durnford exposed himself to the scorching peril with generous intrepidity, and imminent were the risks he ran in rescuing miseriiblo beings, wlio, it was uni- versally remarked, stood in crowds round the toiling soldiers, and gazed on their own crackling and flame-enveloped dwellings, as on a scene that more surprised than otherwise interested them. One spring, a conflagration in the woods, aided by a wind that blew direct for the town of St. Johns, threatened its entire destruction — here no human endeavour could have prevailed, had not the wind abated. Towards the summer, St. Johns would also sometimes continue in a destitute state, from tlie vast fields of floating ice, that, obeying every impulse of the winds, one day blocked up unapproachably the harbour's mouth, and on the next might not be seen, having been known to debar the inhabitants from foreign communication for upwards of six weeks together. Two rare visitants were seen at Newfoundland in the early time of my father's residence there, — the comet of 1811, and an English duke. His grace the Duke of Manchester en route to his government at Jamaica, spent a few days at St. Johns. Among the Ordnance storekeepers at his different stations, with whom professional duty brought ray father in constant proximity, were several who had been selected for their places by peculiar merit. General Vi 1- lancy, the Hon. Mr. Poole, and other officers of rank, assembled at some place in Ireland to make trial of a newly invented gun, when a young gunner in the Royal Artillery insisted in maintaining his own opinion of its affective aim, in direct opposition to the opinion of every distin- guished officer present. Amazed at the man's presumption, they at his willing risk, consented to let him fire it as he wished, which he did with perfect accuracy of aim, so much delighting the gentlemen, that they P ^^ ^l.' ii 70 rocMimiiondod liim for n ('onunission on tho spot, niul presented him with the i)lac(! of Htorekccipor at Olonmel. At 8t. Johns, Mr. John Houston owed his officr aH fitnrckoopor to no- oi(U>nt. Wliilo eninloycd iit Janiiiio.i in Honie inft'ri(»r witniilion, a violent ■torni one nij^ht ohllf^od Win tukin^i; nheltor in a shod, when ho overheard the nei^roes layini; a j)lot for risinjj; the! next day on th<'ir niasterH, Tfc gav(> immediate infonnation. and government rewarded liim with a hand Bonie public place at St, JolinN. Mr. llcuiston, however, en;.faji;ed in Homo Spi'cnlation, considtTed incompatible with the office he lield, and Colonel Dnrnford di.sap])roV(!d ho entirely of his conduct, as to withdraw his former friendly intereounse with him. A correHpondenco between them took plae(\ of which no copy can b(( traced. My father was fond of Newfoundland, ofti'ii looking back to tho ycftrs he was stationed there with watisfaction, when ho had employment without hanssment, in ii climate the ri<,'our of which .strengthens the oon.stitution. Flort'culturc was otic ol his favourite recreations; and .several wild |)atchos, to which he devoted attention, yielded abundantly fruits and ve};etablo8, ecpial in flavour and size to the most carefully cultivated j)roduce of En- glish gardeninj^. Fruits of the ribes and rubus species grew unrivalled in the flavour of their large juicy ciustcr.s. No market or fair was to be deiKtnded on from soil calling vainly for cultivation ; each nnin waH of necessity his own farmer, did he diisire to eat fresh mutton, pork, fowls, or eggs; jind the luxury of milk must bo 8uj)plied by his own cows. Among these, a i'avourite Alderney cow, my father brought from England, met with many adventures in grazing among the wild hills and ravines, at last meeting her death by falling down a precipice. With equal soli- citude and pride, he encouraged the cultivation of ground in small garden patches by his sappers, and strove, alas ! too often inefleetually, to check the fearful ravage the vice of intoxication made, which, resembling plague or direful cholera, extended its contagion, wasteful of vitality. Two years previous to leaving Newfoundland, he ol>taincd a grant of about four acres of ground, conveniently situated, and bordered on one side by a rivulet. He laid out £50 in fencing and clearing it, planting it with a first crop of potatoes on quitting the island; letting it, as he hoped, to an industrious Irishman, liut the period had not arrived for the Newfoundland settler to compete with the fisherman in perseverance or success: the tenant proved negligent; and years flowing on, public duties and other thoughts prevented the requisite attention being given to this pretty little estate, which thus became forfeit from the original owner and occupier. The Admiral, or Governor of Newfoundland, always honoured my father by dining at his table once every year, in the sunnner of his three years' visitation. My mother was fortunate in having her pianoforte, an in- strument rarely seen at the island, twice tuned by naval officers. One was Sir William Parker, a young married Lieut, attached to the Admiral's flag ship; the other, brother to the English composer Bishop, and purser to one of the Frigates. Mrs. Sheldrake died in 1810 at Armagh in Ireland. Her second mar- n riftgo Wfifl nnpnptiliir, nnd lost hortho fVicndship of sovornl ladioH of rnnk, 4hrou^^h whosi! intt rest hIio had ohtaititMl a t!()iiimi«Niking a clorfiyinan if it was wron^ to look at tho phinetH lhrou;;]i a telo- Boope. Aslronoinical diseovorieHWcrocoiiHidered as pro.sunii)tu()U.^ inr{ui> ricH into the liidden things of God, and lu!r young idea wah learful of sin being attached to it. A young fribbing on the seas ; above all, achieving the conquest of Canada. Long ye -.rs of peace closed over the sufferings of those fev sad seasons, and since, so interminable have been the course of otliur events, successes, and losses, as to render them almost forgotten. A brief recapitulation will refresh the memory, without being entirely out of place in this memoir. The beginning of May, 1812, the Irpperial Parliament wa.o obliged to notico the complaints made by the President of the United States. The most prominent among these was a secret mission of Capfc. Henry to Massachusetts, in 1809, and the correspondence a person of the name of Lavater, had foi private purposes entered into with the governor of Canada, six years previous, at a time when the American govern- ment exhibited no friendly feelings for British America. Much scru- tiny of the visit of Kunry wa.s never made, and this indulgence was imputed to delicacy towards the governor of Canada, Sir James Craig, who returned to England from his government, dangerously ill, ano was at this period dead. It is said of this governor, that an A.inerican gentleman and his very handsome wife, making a tour througl. Canada, were invited to un entertainment given at the chateau of St. Loui3, the govcr:iment house at Quebec, and on being presented to Sir James Craig, the visitor offered, in the Kepublican fashion, tc shake hands : Sir James, coacidering this an unwarrantable liuniliavity, instead of permitting it, placed ^ oth his own hands behind him. The gentleman had been introduced at the several European courts. The secret mission of Henry was never either explained or justified by England, so that the Americans used it as a cover for a (juarrol, and the conquest of Canada teujpted iheir hopes of reaping glo'.y. The invasion was oommenced by General Hull, who, at the head of 2,300 men, entered Upper Canada, July 11, 1812, publishing addresses in the bombastic French 3tyle to the peopla of the Provii ce. This attempt 'vr^ 73 was frustrated by the ability of Brock, despite the reliance tlio Pres- ident had formed of its success. Madison made severe complaints to England, for employing savages in their armies after the repulse at Queenston. A third attempt was made, Nov. 16, same year, by Dear- born, v/ho marched to Champlain: but the season was too advanced to proceed against Montreal as he had meditated. The commencement of 1813 witnessed attacks and hnrassments, though winter set in with its usual rigour, and the ice formed on the St, Lawrence even facilitated them. Cruel was the trcatuunit the inhabitants of the small town of Prescott met with, when surprised in the middle of one severe night, they were forced to leave their burning dwellings, to which the Americans had set fire, and about 400 in number, wandering in the snow, vainly attempting to reach Montreal, — they all perished. Two young unmarried ladies, with their maid servant, living near the Falls of Niagara, had actually a dozen American soldiers billeted in a part of their large house, for several weeks. The brother, being a British subject, could not remain with them. The good conduct of these Republicans, and their respect for the propc'. ,• of the household, was most remarkable. These ladies were afterwartu asked, " if they did not feel much alarm at the time ? " " No, " they answered, " wc knew American soldier:^ couid be relied on for propriety of manners and honesty." The shores of the great lakes supplied inexhaustible material for the navies. Wonderful was the expedition employed in building war vessels; and eyewitnesses declare thut lofty trees, from three to six weeks after being hewn down, were floating, e(iuipped in warlike pomp, to dare and to battle. The principal causes and complaints alleged by the Americans against England in this war, were, 1st, the long-remembered mission of Henry j 2nd, the employraentof savages as allies; ai d, 3rdly, the right of impresa- ment claimed by Great Britain on the high seas. They desired peace, though still exasperated against England, Towards the end of Sept., Sir George Prevost received information that 37,000 me;i were ready to attack Canada from three different points. He pos':ed himself at Montreal, as the most import;.iit station threatened, and in this neighbourhood on the banks o^ the Cliateaunuay, u signal victory was gained by Lieut.-Col. Do Salaberry, at the head of his Canadians. Hampden's d»;;feat was complete. Wilkinson, on Oct 2., came down from Grenadier Island on the lake of the Thousand Islands, with 10,000 men, and descended the river in canoes RUu batteaux, in hopes of surprising Montreal. The difficulties of this frequently interrupted navigation were achieved, until his flotilla hud arrived within six miles of Prescott, which town he attempted to pass the night ol Nov. 7. Tliere he was discovered and stopped. Grenadier Island was accidcMtally touched at by the steamer my father was on board, some years afterwards, when lie and his party met with a singular reception from tlie inmates of a very comfortably furnished I**! II n N' 74 log h'lt, enlivened by a blazing wood fire on the henrth, and a large family of stront^ looking children. A girl, about ten years old, was asked " How many children her mother hud ?" she replied, " My mother is there, you can ask her." " But cannot you tell us ? " " Yes I can ; but my mother can tell you better." The visitors were nmoh struck by the odincuss of the child's replies, and still more, when, on asking the mother if she was English, she fiercely placed her arms akimbo, and said, " No, I'm a thorough bred Yunkee, I'll never deny my country." This amazon like female, had a dress on resembling a cliild's pinafore, of coarse brown linen, and her brown hair was cropt quite shore, without cap, bonnet, or hat. A terriljlo in.stanco of cruelty was the burning of Newark, whose inhabitants had their 150 houses set on fire, and found themselves driven into the open country ; fated to feel the extremities of cold and need on a bitter Canadi;in night. Havoc, conflagration, and continued losa of brave men on both sides, ushered in the January of 1814; then wanton destruction of stores, and unsatisfactory reprisal. Notwith- standing the complaints made by President Madison, on the aid the Britisli permiftod theniSi' /es, in employing Indifin allies, the Americans stooped to a similar use of savage warriors, and retaliations were on bo+h sides not only threatened, but put into execution before the close of the year. The Americans attempted to turn the Indian allies from their fidelity to their Great Father, as, with their well-known eloquence of speech, they svyled the English monarch. But in vain — alFuution and firmness to the cause of the friends they sided with remained unshaken. Among other severe conflicts, came the engagement of Lundy's Lane, when in sight <^ }> m m m 76 i| and tho people of Georgia. The aggressions, violences, or conquests, c iterod into and made by Generals Gaines and Jackson, first against the Indians, and then against the Spaniards in the Floridas, eventually led to the possession of" these provinces by the Americans, and the confirmation of their dominion over them, however the President and senate might join in deprecating the self-constituted authority, that advanced upon and took possession of Pensacola, Fort Barancas, and St. Augustine. The absolute decision of an American general had hung two Englishmen suspected of inciting the Indians to disaffection, and put to death two Indian chiefs without the shadow of trial. An interval of universal peace had been interrupted by unprincipled aggress- ions, confessed to bo such by the people whose army had transgresaed : Spain tamely gave up her provinces, while America condescendingly accepted the boon, indigiu\nt at the annexation. Brilliant success, attained with comparative facility, was compared with the failures their arms had met witii in the Canadas. It was proclaimed these pro- ceedings should not be tolerated or justified, lest they should be deemed precedent and example for future occasions. " If " they said, " these things bo admitted in tho south, will they not be considered as authorized in the north ? Are there not fortresses there to be won, and provinces to be conquered ? are there not Indians in that quarter likewise, and may not the officers in command, find means to prove that those Indians have been, or hereafter may be furnished by the British, with arms and munitions of war, &c.? so may he not (the successful general) follow the example set in the south, and add something to his stock of military fame, by reducing the British fortresses of Canada, and unfurling the star-spangled banner of this nation on the walls of Quebec?" America declared herself averse to again involving the nation in hostilities with all Europe, as the consequence of this violation of treaties by her was fully equal to cause. While defending the murders of Arbuthnot and Ambrister, the treaty with Spain, signed December 21, 1818, undertook to grant com- pensation and satisfaction, to the full amount and validity, of the claims made by citizens, and also the possession of grants of land made before the January 24, 1818, the era of conquest, by his catholic majesty to his subjects, all which were by stipulation rendered as valid, as if the territories had remained under the dominion of Spain, grants made since that date being declared null and void. To be prepared for assault, is the best security man's foresight can suggest against its occurrence. Canada's importance could not be overlooked. Quebec especially, it appeared most necessary to strengthen by completing its already admirably constructed fortiiications. The conniianding approach to this city, has deservedly entitled it to be desig- nated and esteemed " the Gibraltar of the West." A citadel on Cape Diamond, the highest ground about Quebec, and overlooking tlie St. Lawrence, was designed for erection, besides other important military works both in Lower and Upper Canada, and for the planning and Tvm 77 carrying on of these, Lieut.-Coloncl Durnford was the engineer selected. This appointment as commanding Koyal Engineer in the Cunadaa was in the year 1816. Quitting Newfoundland immediately navigation permitted, and leaving his family at St. Johns, to visit England, he arrived at Quebec, in the month of June. The skies and climate of Canada are noted for brightness and salubrity ; but the year my father first sailed up the river St. Lawrence and for three weeks after arriving at Quebec, a succession of fdgs con- tinued so dense as to conceal almost entirely from observation, the magnilicent and beautiful features of the country. To the grnndeur of nature's displays in this line country, he was afterwards sensibly awakened; a few lines from a letter to one of his children, written immediately upon his arrival, and under his first impressions of Quebec appear scarcely to proceed from the pen of the same person, who latterly spoke in terms of delight and admiration, of the scenery that had remained for nearly a month invisible to his eyes. "June, 1816. " My dear, " Your conjectures respecting the unfavourable wind proved very correct though upon the whole, we have great reason to be thankful for our good and safe passage. The weather appears equally changeable with that of Newfoundland, but seems to bt in greater extremes. The current of the river St. Lawrence is believed to influence it much; and the wind I understand, blows generally from east or west, being nearly the direction of the stream, which is very rapid, making it difficult to cross to the opposite shore, except at about high or low water. It was rainy weather when we came up the river, but from the short glimpses of fine permitting observation, 1 judged the scenery to be remarkably striking and pretty. The first land we approached tolerably near to, Wi-s high, and the mountains almost entirely covered with snow (in June,) while the advancing progress made by our ship, presented various views that pleased me, I must confess, more than any prospect I have yet obt -ined round the city. The country from hence is spotted with houses, and as each has a small lot of ground belonging to it, the soil is highly cultivated, and every seven or eight miles, churches, or rather catholic chapels are seen, with a good priest's house, garden and orchard very contiguous. The banks of the river on approaching Quebec are generally low, with small water falls, or mill races interspersed, which with the bright green of the verdure, very much add to the beauty of the river in every direction." Little more than a month after arriving at Quebec, he started on a tour of inspection through the extent of his vast district. Traces of this journey remain in some rough notes taken while travelling. These are sometimes not clearly to bo understood, the handwriting being here and there illegible, and the names of a few of the places mentioned, seem either to have been changed, or are no more recognizable. Still they ai-e interesting to his family, as pointing out how ut that period ll 'Hi i 'i , 1 1 • ) , 78 i 1^': thoir fithcr's thoupjhts were employed, when gftzing for the fu'st time on Bitii;itions newly recovered from invasion, havoc, and confla}.Tation : wliiin men's minds wore scarcely settled to the belief of their non recur-' renco. One of his sons thus oxpreKses himself in speaking of those notes : " My father's travelling notes are rough and very incomplete ; they arc scarcely legible, and not much can be gathered from them." Evi- dently intended for no second eye to scan, in preserving thera, nothing is cx]>('sed to view more than the writer's buoyant and amiable dis])osition, rapidly taking down, in a professional view, nil then considered of primary importance in relation to the defence of the Canadas. No magnificent canals, steamboats, or railroads, then facilitated travelling; in place there was the jolting waggon, the swinging but safe caliche, the flat bottomed boat or batteau, and the bark canoe of the Indian. "July 27. Saturday, about 2 o'clock, started in the steamboat, and arrived at 3Iontreal, Sunday evening at 6 o'clock. Found out Capt. Manu. Stayed with him the night. Early in the morning I took a view of Citadel Hill, which appears to have been made by art; is some- thing of a long oval shape, too incapacious for a work, although it coniiiiands an island which seems the natural situation for magazines, storeliousea, &c., &c., to be erected on Hen Island. Received letters from military secretary, and answered them. The cofifluence of the rivers Richelieu and St. Lawrence, is a situation of vast importance. " Monday 29th. Afternoon, left Montreal for Lachinc, where I met Lieutenant Barou, R. E., who exhibited to me his survey to the mouth of the Rideau, appearing very satisfactory : Captain Fowler joined us late at night, and I was sorry to lind that the map of Upper Canada, which Capt. Mann lent me, was by carelessness left in the caleche, ".30th. About 6 o'clock in the morning we left Lachine in a batteau, got to breakfast at, a place near to which the Americans had advanced, when they received a check from Col. Do Salaberry : pass* ing hence we go between two islands, one of which presents a mill, the convent of three sisters, and a remarkable hill, appearing a strong post. About noon we reached the Cascades. I examined the locks, and met Major Long of the staff corps ; also viewed the rapids, which are here long and strong. Walk to the Split Rock, and witness the operation of batteaux shooting the rapids, from whence I fancy that my idea of using the rollers will answer. Walk until we hire a caleche to Les Cedars, where we stay all night : embark for Coteau du Lac ; but thi;i way of travelliiii; being tedious, hire a caliche again, and get to Coteau du Lac soon after breakfast on the Lst August. Capt. Romilly to be instructed to r«»jx»rt a present state of the work and building. " Same day examined the fortifications an J locks : the work may be imiu'oved, but if neglected will soon fall into decay. Here seeiu islands capable of tending to obstruct a flotilla coming down the St. Lawrence from lake St. Peters, though the stream is very rapi'l. I would rather attempt such an object further in advance, where the water is still ; this requires much inspection, and is of great consequence to ascertain \m 79 wm correctly. Cross the lake, and nrrivc at a small inn situntod in a very narrow branch of the river, and on very disagreeable swiiiii))y ground, where stny all night. Set oflF at 5 o'clook in the morning for Cornwall, and reach it to bn-akfast ; hero determine to proceed by land to Fort Wellington : servants and baggage to go in the battoaii. Cornwall is a largo and pleasant looking village, with a good road on "August 10 general appearance more like a lortilication than wliat has yet been inspected: may prohably be improved to cor- respond more with regular front of fortification : the advanced block- houses to be attended to, and the environs of thotown examined with oare. "11th. Go to church — introduced to Colonel Talbot. Lieut. Wilson, R. E., arrives from Fort George. He proceeds in the afternoon with Lieut. Phillpotts and myself to Dyers haven : road very bad — princi- pally through wood, ana strong passes in the road. Jlost all night at 1st stage. " 12lli. Start at half past four in tho morning; get to Flake's tavern to 'breiikt'ast, by a dreary country, little settled. From the last stage to HolLind's lauding, the country assumes a more cheerful and cultivated appearance, with much upland ground well worth seeing. Arrive at Holland's landing at 1 o'clock, and take measures to proceed in tho afternoon. Difficulties occur: these surmounted by getting from the commissary and Lieut, of lloyal navy two si.iall punts ; and pressing . :}7th llegiment, and 2 lloyal marines, about 1 o'clock, start again with a fair light wind, ruach Keiicpenlicld at 5 o'clock, where we meet Lieut. Col. McCoy of the Indian department, who states that two schooners will sail next morning by 6 o'clock : determine at all events to push on, and send a messenger to Mr. Platon the comniissnry. Walk then principally in the dark through tho wood, arrive at 9 o'clock at get tea, persuade the men to go on at 10 o'clock at night. " 14th. All of us work during the night ; a most disagreeable passage ; atrive very much fatigued at 1 o'clock in the morning. Find a schooner, and there introduced to Capt. Ilambly, R. N. ; go with him down the river and dine. " 15th. Go up the rapids and examine high sand hills on opposite side; embark in the afternoon on board the Confiancc rough night and land at Churton Island. " lUth. Take soundings ; embark in the afteraoon and arrive fat Penetanguishene harbour examine Islan 1. "lOtli. Go on shore; lost in the wood for about four hours. See nothing but a few pigeons and tracks of bears. " 20th. Sail again : go in the boat to see the Flower Pots — two rocks 80 washed by the water that they really assume the appearance which names them : with difiSoulty reach the Emprise : very dark before we got on board, l>ut keep her in view by flash of small arms. " 21st. Arrive atDrummond's Island about 3 o'clock in the afternoon : go on shore; introduced to Lieut. Col. Maule, Lieut. Sheppard, R. A., and Lieut. Portlock, R. E. ; dine with these latter. fi. i *} • ill e|bI7 ' III 80 " 22iid. Captain King, R. A., arrives ; look about the ground, &o. *' 23rd. Go to St. Joseph's island; see magazine — in bad repair; old trace of the square picketted old fort : return in the afternoon to Drum- moud'H island. " Monday, 25th. Leave Drummond's island for Michiliinackinuo ; land on a small point of land to breakfast : while strolling about solo from my party near three hundred yards, I espy a bear, and return for a gun to the boat. The animal disappeared by the time we all wont in search of him — his footsteps very plainly traced. When we land again, Lieut. Shcppard .sees u large bear ; I was advanced four or five when I like- wise saw him, Lieut, Phillpotts as many behind Shcppard. Bruin made a few steps forward looking at us very sternly, then ran into the woods - -call the Indians and hunt him for some time: the Indians at last got into canoe and tire at him but without effect — afterwards saw another. Sleep in the woods. Captain King faints away and remains very ill. "26th. Ileach Michiliniackinae at 12 o'clock; land out of vic^V of the works, and walk to the town. Lieut.-Colonel Wilson, R. A., the oommuiulaiit, very politely allows us to go into the old fort. Captain King very ill, and we obliged to stay all night. " 27th. Embark, and reach Drummond's Island at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. Leave two letters with Lieut. Portlock from Lieut.-Colonel Addison, in relation to work and his leave. " 29th. Embark from Drunuuond's Island for Sandwich. " September 2. Arrive at Sandwich : meet Captain Payne, R. E." In this brief journal, my father mentions — in connection with Montreal, — Citadel Hill, and Hen Island, two places not recognizable at this date, 1863. The confluence of the rivers Kichelieu and St. Lawrence, struck him as of vast importance, and he speaks of a satisfactory survey being exhibited to him, to the mouth of the Rideau, on the first visit he made to the Upper Province. He entered into every risk, and met every unforseen privation, with cheerful energy, on all occasions bearing exertion and fatigue better than his younger officers. Another of the few letters preserved of his, is subjoined ; written ten days before setting off ou the tour of the Upper Lakes : Quebec, 16th July, 1816." 'i My dear Daughter, Although no letter is come from you, yet I feel satisfied that you have written to me ; if not you will make up for it very soon. I hope your brothers will be pleased with my letters to them. I could hardly write when I first sat down ; I began with theirs, fearing the arrival of the post from Upper Canada might, as generally the case, have brought me public papers to answer, when I should not have been able to address these few lines to you. " I think you will like our house and gardens (three in number) very much ; one is almost entirely full of fruit, gooseberries, currants, straw- m 81 berries, and rnapberries, nnd all sorts of flowers, with a nice cool arbor for reading in, &o., either in the morning or evening : in the middle of the day the sun is too hot upon it, indeed to go out any where unless the wind blows a little fresh. I am sorry to say that the old ruui of the Intendant's Palace is rebuilt in the modern style ; part is our carriage house (when we get one), cow house, and straw or luiylol't, whieh takes away part of our prospect of the waters ; but we still have a very pretty view of the country, particularly at liigh water ; at low, horj^ea and carts go across the river : the suburb extends very far beyond one quarter, wliich cei l.iinly lays low and the Fortilication walls tower over us, and are only separated from us by the road. Please to tell Mr. Vicars that I am very much obliged by his kind and long letter, which I hope ho will repeat ; perhaps after I visit the Upper Countries I shall have something to say a little interesting to him ; uniil which time he must excuse my answering. If Colonel DeButts should call on your mama, I beg my best remem- brance to }»im, and wish him every happiness in his command. You will perceive therefore my dear daughter, 1 was a little disap- pointed in not receiving a letter from you amongst the rest. I felt equally assured of your love nnd affection, which I hope will increase for me with your years, as well as for your dear mama, to whom I need not enjoin you to pajf the greatest attention in every respect. Kiss the dear little boys and Popsy for me, and believe me, my dear daughter, your affectionate father, E. W. DURNPORD. With the closing navigation, my father sailed for England in the mer- chant ship, the Mary, and rejoined his family the evening before Christ- mas-day. Again he had the satisfaction of seeing some of his former friends. Among the visits lie paid was one to Mrs. Walker, of lledland, Bristol, widow of the uncle at whose house he was, when he first return- ed as prisoner on parole, from Rochelle. Mrs. Walker's eldest son had lately married a sister of Lady Sherbrookc, wife to the newly appointed Governor-General of the Canadas. This fortnight he enjoyed much the society of his amiable relations, who did all in their power to make time pass in an agreeable and improving way, driving him and my mother to several fine seats in the neighbourhood, the Duke of Beaufort's and ])laze Castle, in particular. He stopt for one night at the beautiful town of Bath, to call on General Francis Moore, to whom, as already mentioned, he was for several years Aid-de-Camp in Newfoundland. He also visited Captain Godfrey, storekeeper of Purfleet, a friend to whom he was much attached. This was the same gentleman who, while shooting with him over the Tipperary Mountains in Ireland, had dislo- cated his kneepan, as before told. While in London, my father twice consulted the famous Dr. Aberne- thy on the subject of a nervous affection he suffered from. That poss- esser of supposed first-rate talent in his line, refused to prescribe, saying he required perfect quiet and a long course of treatment to effect reco- very. The complaint was attributed to over fatigue of body, and anxiety F iiii i i I 8S ofniiiid, rcsullltii^ from the multiplicity of his (luties; unfortunately ho did not ro.solvo on followiii}^ up tlic! reeonmiiMiilod HyHtom. Tiio I'ollovviiig Hprin;^ he returned with his family to Canada. Tho outward l)ound pas,sa<^e, made in a deeply laden onlnance Htore trans- port, waH prolonj^jed to tho extraordinary len}j;th of thirteen weeks; tiio crew and paHseuf^erH, short of provisiouH, witli the pump incewsantly at work to \iw\) the veHwel afh)at, wero only too happy and thankful to bo permitted by tho Kuler of storms and calms, to anchor in health after so luany discomforts. The remend)ranco of his youthfid adventures was forcibly recalled to recollection, by receivin;^ a lett(!r from the same (Japt. Walker, who had in so daring' a lUiinuer made his escape, when condiied as prisoner of war ou board, "la Bonne Mere," in the harlutiir of Gua^ieloupo. " Jiarbadoes, Dtli .lime, ISIS. IMy di^ar Colonel, lookin<^ over the ca- lendar of our former unfortunates of Borville, I lind that very few remain: yet there is some scltish gratilication in sayinj;', that you and I are still upon the shelf, after the horrid treatment wo suti'ored from that execrable tyrant Victor Ungues. " Although our correspondence lior; hitherto been silent, my en(|uiric8 have not been so : and our fri(!nd S'leldrake (second husband of Rebecca, the mother of Colonel Durnford at this period deceased), and myself do not forgtst you, when we meet ; he is just returned from J3erbice, where he had been on a visit to his estate. I am told that it is a very valuable one, but the old gentleman denies that, and pleads poverty. " Your present high situation must place you conspicuously with tho Duke of llichmond, who I am toid is a hoii vivant. As to myself, eter- nally tossed from good to bad, and bad to good — a dreadful enemy at length assailed me — the gout — and selc'om will let me alone. I am not now the man who would again head an escape from Pointe-iVl'itre. A prnjws — I have, since I saw you, been twice at the capture of Guade- loupe ; and did not fail to visit Eerville. Two scoundrels have now the possession of it and 8t. Jeans ; not a single person remaining of their families. Notwithstanding my suft'erings from the gout, I strive to keep up my spirits, but cannot get over what I cannot but consider as a hu- miliating misfortune, that of having been taken prisoner in the Java, by the Constitution, when going out to India with 8ir Thos. Ilislop. Although a stranger to Mrs. Durnford, may I, notwithstanding, beg that you will present my best respects, and at the same time accept your- self my very best wishes for your health and happiness. Jielieve me, my dear colonel, your sincere friend, Tho. Walker. }*evhaps you may be in- duced to write me a few lines by return of this vessel ; I shall feel happyj" My father's residence, on first arriving at Quebec, was in part of an old pile of buildings, called the Intendant's Palace. Afterwards a house was appointed for him near the Plains of Abraham, the same as continues to be occupied by his successors in office. Quebec as a station formed a strong contrast with St. Johns. It loomed in the estimation of the minor military posts of British North America, the focus of fashion, gaiety and refinement. may hospi 8uitc( desk, struc daggi II 83 ■yr- !My fiitlicr'n strictly professional dutios tliroiif^linut tliu wliolo poriod of hin Htiitioii ill tlio CimaclaH, were LiboriouK and ouorous. Every Miuniiior, following; up the font prints of the (irut, lio miido tdurs of innpoction of groati;r or K'.sm extent, with Hirveyn of the exteiihi\( ly ncaltered statidns, conipris(Ml within the hir;j;i! eunipass ul' botli I pper and liower Canada, inclndiri}^ the iNolnted pOHts on the ^reat LakcH. No one posseHscd a keener nenwc of enj(»ynient for the heaulien of natun;. lie was never weary in admiring the niagniticencc of the 8t. Lawrenee and had navi- gated the rapids so fre<)uently, as to beconu) familiar will all the shoots and rippl(\s ol'its interrujded waters, and always accustomed to look around Iiim in a ])rofessional point of view : he was constantly considerini: which were the ])Ositions of most importance. The caiK)e in which he lirst shot the dang(!rous rapid of the " CascadcH," was placed in no Bundl risk, by tho padlle's sudd(>nly breakini; ; lueklly u Hccond was in reserve, and ho often Bpoke of (his moment of jeopardy. To liini was appt)int^ \\ '(S"'. <^\ -E^^ ^' O ;\ ^ C> 1^ ''I ai n .1 84 SECTION VIII. Sir Charles Bagot's letter. — Journey to New-Orleans. — Grants. &c., found at Washington. — Return to Quebec. — Correspondence. — Mrs. Fontenelle and her letters. — Mr. Roberts. It is not to be imagined that the vast extent of land the father had lost in West Florida, on its change of masters, was forgotten by his heirs ; on the contrary, from the period of the eldest son, Elias Walker's arri- val at Quebec, he made inquiries relating to it ; and understanding the period was a favorable one for advancing the claims of his family, the obliging assistance of the Duke of Richmond, then Governor of the Canadas, was the occasion of the following letter from the gentleman, who five and twenty years afterwards, occupied the same post his Grace then did. "Washington, March 10, 1819. My Lord, I had the honour to re- ceive on the 10th of last month your grace's letter of January 29, trans- mitting to me a letter from Lt.-Col. Durnford, desiring to ascertain whether there is any prospect of his recovering certain lands which be- longed to his father in the vicinity of New-Orleans. At the time when I received your grace's letter, a bill was pending in the Congress, entitled, * An Act for adjusting claims to land in the district east of the island of New-Orleans,' which I thought might be found to affect in some man- ner the lands to which Col. Durnford refers. I therefore delayed to an- swer your grace's letter till the fate of this bill was decided. It passed within the few last days of the session, aad I have the honour to enclose a copy of it for Col. Durnford's information and guidance. At the latter end of the year 1816, I received instructions from his Majesty's govern- ment to endeavour to make some arrangement with the government of the United States upon the subject of the claims of British subjects to lands in Florida and the Mississippi territory. Soon after the receipt of these in- structions, a bill was brought into Congress for erecting the western part of the Mississippi territory into a state. During the progress of this bill, I endeavoured to induce the American government to take that opportu- nity of coming to some compromise with the British claimants ; but the committee of the House of Representatives, which waa appointed to pre- pare the bill, declined to take any measures upon the subject. The bill however contained nothing which at all affected the validity of their claims : and I then suggested to the claimants, what I am persuaded is the only course now to be taken, viz., that some one claimant should carry his cause before the tribunals of the state, where, from the local interest opposed to him, he probably will not obtain a decision in his favour ; but from whence, since the admission ol the territory into a state, he can carry an appeal to the supreme Federal court at Washington with every prospect of an equitable decision. I have since heard that the claimants in England are far from satisfied at this proposal of sending them to the courts for redress ; but I am fully persuaded that it is the only course which they can take with any reasonable prospect of success ; for unques- the 85 tionably tho general government will not interfere, even if it should appear (which ia very doubtful) that they have the power to do so, in cases of lands already occupied, until the parties have sought redress in the Su- preme Court of law to which they have now, for the first time, the power to appeal. " I have the honour to be, &c., " Charles Baqot. " General his Grace, the Duke of Richmond, &c., &c." The journey now to be mentioned forms an unexpected and singular episode ; and was suggested to my father in consequence of becoming acquainted with Sir Charles Saxton, Baronet, who was at that time mak- ing a tour in Canada and the United States, and during his stay at Quebec, a guest of the then governor-in-chief, the Duke of Richmond. My father first travelled in Sir Charles' company in Canada. Th ^y wore driving by night in the same coach along the portage from Lachine to Montreal, when my fa'^her's portmanteau was cut from behind the coach ; and the next morning, ifter the loss had been discovered, Sir Charles good-naturedly supplied from his private stock his fellow traveller's im- mediate requirements. On finally departing from Quebec, with the intention of proceeding to Washington, he took advantage of the friendly oflFers of Sir Charles, to ascertain whether any documents relating to his father, the late Colonel Dur'iford's estates and grants in West Florida, were lodged in that city. In due time. Sir Charles Saxton wrote : "Baltimore, Dec. 11, 1819. My dear sir, I lose no time in forward- ing to you the enclosed certificate of grants made by the British govern- ment, in which it was probabb you might be interqgted : to which it seems necessary only to add, that the documents from which it has been extracted are at Washington : where in that city and under whose supe- rintendence the enclosure furnishes of itself sufiicient information. I have found as yet no opportunity of forwarding your letters to New- Orleans, nor shall I till I have decided that I shall not have the oppor- tunity of delivering them in porson. I have taken a copy of the sub- stance of Mr. Gardiner's certificate, that I may use it, should any proper opportunity of introducing it occur : be assured however that I will not press it into notice in any way that can be mischievous or give offence." i ■; I' GRANTS FROM THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT OF PENSACOLA TO ELIAS DURNFORD, VI7. : ^ Recorded in Jl 1, Vol. 9. ITTO, July 3, acres 500, on the river Perdido, — not recorded. 1772, Jan. 20, (>00, do Mississippi, — •recorded Al p. 49 Feb. 4, 1,000, do do do 421 10,000, do Amit do 341 1772, May 14, 613, do do do 325 100, do do do 332 500, do do do 329 July, 28, 2,100, do and Mijsissippi,- — A2 and Al 1776, May, 7, 315, do Thompson's creek, —A3 P- 167 Note. — Vols 2 and 3 were never in this office. General Land Office, 9 December, 1819. John Gardinkb, Clerk. I I ■fr 86 , ■»■■-" : !-, > i ! ]'■ : ■■ These reports from "Washington by Sir Charles, appeared so highly flattering and satisfactory, as to induce my father, after consulting the first legal advice in Canada, to undm-take a long, and at that period con- sidered perilous journey to New-Orleans, taking Washington en route, thence to proceed to his destination by the rivers Ohio and Mississippi. The plans for the intended citadel were completed and approved; but until the many feet deep ice and snow that encumbered the ground was removed by genial spring, nothing could be attempted towards its com- mencement. His youthful son Philip was his companion on this jour- ney of two thousand miles. They reached Washington the beginning of March, 1820, three weeks after leaving Quebec, selecting this most rigo- rous season of the year, as being the only period when his official and professional duties admitted of long absence. The subjoined notes, taken while journeying, were found after his death by accident, in a trunk containing with other papers many copies of the grants, &c., in question. The affectionate and benevolent soul of the writer is legible throughout the narrative, written in pencil, and in some places not easily read. . , , . " The object of the journey I am about to undertake was to prove titles to act on account of Florida land, which should devolve to my family, having been granted or purchased by my father, and which although the grants were actually in possession of my mother prior to her second marriage, through carelessness were missing from her house. ''' On Christmas day, in the year 1819, I received intimation through the medium of my kind friend. Sir Charles Saxton, that many of these grants were registered at Washington : likewise a list thereof was trans- mitted to me from the chief clerk of the Land Office, corroborating the intelligence. Under such circumstances, and by the advice of those I considered as competent judges, among whom was the talented Chief Justice Sewell of Quebec, it was determined that I should proceed to New Orleans to register as necessary, according to the act of 3, the year 1819, and act according to circumstances, in the prosecution of the claims, by instituting necessary law suits, &c. " The knowledge that my family had of my unsteady temper and unfit- ness to proceed on such an important errand alone, induced them to con- sent, or rathor recommend, that my young son Philip should accompany me, as being the best means of keeping up my spirits, and rendering services to me as a companion. I could not claim the same description of assistance from indifferent persons, and my dear boy proved a comfort to me. " Several incidents delayed my journey, and little events that I hope hereafter to laugh at, but appeared vexatious at the time, occurred during the few days previous to our departure ; especially on the night preced- ing it, when the whok family were kept awake almost the whole night ; and about 5 o'clock in the morning, my son and myself were seated as sole passengers in the stage cariolo, a description of vehicle peculiar to Lower Canada. The thermometer was between 17 and 18 below x-^xtj 87 wo were we?l cl.ad, as also our driver, whom the cold did not affect, though I fully expected he would have been frost-bitten. Great exercise and employment to his arms was used in driving Tandem, and avoiding the cahots, a kind of deep gully formed by accumulated and scooped out snow, in consequence of the singular construction of the Lower Canada winter carriage. About 8 o'clock we got to Jacques Cartier and break- fasted ; the unpleasunt motion of the carriage had made my son very sick. We paid three shillings for our breakfast, and had afterwards a beautiful day, with the exception of frequent cahots. We dined at St. Ann's, paying five and sixpence for our dinner, and reached Three llivers about 6 o'clock in the evening, having drove about 90 miles in 13 hours. The acting governor, Sir Peregrine Maitland, arrived at the same pla..t, at 9 o'clock, when we went to bed. Sir Peregrine Maitland started before daylight, and got the start of us by about half an hour. The morning was very cold, with that degree of frost that penetrates much. We overtook his party at breakfast, and started this time before it. Hith- erto we had suffered but little comparatively speaking from the cahots ; but on departing from Tour au Loup, it is difficult to express how dis- agreeable was the state of the road. It nearly resembled a field with fur- rows of from three to four or five feet deep, and about the latter in width ; but notwithstanding we proceeded at a good rate, with a pair of sniall Cana- dian ponies, and an old fellow in a carter's frock for our driver. While eating our dinner at Berthier, Sir Peregrine again overtook us. This meal here cost five and sixpence. The great depth of the snow has pre- vented us from seeing the country to advantage, but the frequent peeps we obtained of the St. Lawrence, and the variety of hamlets, or rather series of cottages with their gardens and back fields, gave a good idea of how diversified and pleasing tl.e scenery must be in summer. We had not apprehended to have gone t'.irough so settled a country. The road, as we approached Montreal, was most shockingly cut up with cahots. Sir Peregrine overtook us onoe more when we were about eighteen miles from Montreal. Several times, doubts arose as to whether we should be enabled to proceed, as we were twice overturned within a few miles of Montreal, but luckily we sustained no sort of injury. " At 8 o'clock we arrived at Montreal, and were kindly received by my friend Captain Romilly, who was at the house of his female friend. Sir. P. did not arrive until 10 o'clock. On the 10th, settled a good deal of duty, and propose to start the same day at 10 o'clock : Captain Romilly and Mr. Blennerhasset overtook us — came with the latter. " As I had been importuned to take places in the stage, and was promised to be called for next morning at 4 o'clock; I accordingly got up, and took hastily a breakfast. No carriage arrived half an hour after the appointed time ; and, after waiting a full hour in expectation, I sent Captain Romilly's servant, who returned saying he could find no body up, or the least appeai'ance of a carriage. I then went myse!f, and having found out the coachhouse, asked to see the owner, but inef- fectually, meeting with anger instead of ledreps. I then enquired for another stage, offering k> pay half the fare to Plattsburg^ and to be takea up at 8 o'clock. I II i' r^' ^i^ f! ;; t * ) ; ■' i > hf ill I % m 88 " February 12. Instead of a covered stage, an open oariole arrived for me, and as the morning was fine I preferred going on in it, expecta- tions being held out by the driver that we should soon overtake the sttige we soon found out the untruth of this nonsense. We crossed the St. Lawrence near the rapids ; the cahots were bad, but on the otht*' side of Laprairie, indescribably so. On one occasion we were detained half an hour by several sleighs and loaded sledges, as these are obliged mutually to help each other along. At last, our driver out of patience dashed on into the snow, and the horses with much difl&culty plunging into it, — we continued to go plump through. It now became very pleasant travelling ; still the same dead flat across Laprairie. Having breakfasted at 4 o'clock, we got, what we stood much in need of, a snack of eggs and bread and butter. About 20 miles from Laprairie, on passing the boundaries, we found beautiful roads, and were enabled to drive two horses abreast, as is generally done throughout the United States. We arrived at Plattsburgh, a neat town, about 9 o'clock, having previously dined at Chaniplain, and paid five shillings for our meal, likewise a very pretty neat village, with fine upland country about it. A small river here falls into the Lake Champlain. " 13th. A major was the host at the inn or hotel, where we put up at Plattsburgh, and we enjoyed its pleasant situation on the shore of Lake Champlain, commanding an extensive view of those waters, the scene of action between the two fleets in 1814, and of the wrecks of forti- fications, which are seen on a ridge of hills, within half gun shot : the blockhouse was within musket shot. This being Sunday, I deter- mined to attend divine service, and the host very politely offered me a sleigh, and also sent with us his son, who conducted us to a seat in a very neat building. The service was very well performed. I sat next two ladies in deep mourning ; one of whom I noticed seemed par- ticularly affected by the sermon. The text was, " Having no Hope." My conductor informed me, this female was a bad woman, who had lately lost an infant. After church, I went in the sleigh to the camp ground, and near the remains of the redoubt, &c. " We started at 4 o'clock to go one stage or rather route, which was said to be about 16 miles, but owing to a great delay at the Post office, there was a derangement in line of stages as stated. We did not reach the end of the route until near 10 o'clock, and travelling through the woods almost all the way, and in the dark. The driver declared he had never been this road before, and that his horses were jaded before we left Plattsburg. Our resting place was a hut in the woods, where we got a comfortable supper and beds, &c. Started on the 14th about two hours before daylight, and all our great coats, &c., &c., were not found to be too much. Our breakfast this day cost 3s. 9d. and dinner 5s. The road led through a mountainous country very much resembling the wild parts of Wales, and scenery remarkably interesting. We reached Chester about 7 o'clock, where were very comfortable beds. Philip and myself however were obliged to sleep together, and we started next morning at 2 o'clock with two additional passengers in our stage, and nt; !i 89 and much rain and sleet, which made our route very disagreeable. We reached Georgetown on t)ie lake at six o'clock, and thoroughly drenched with the rain. This was the first really disagreeable place we had stopt at, for though so uncomfortably wet, we could hurdly get to a fire; there was no sort of comfort obtainable, and we were made to wait an immense time for breakfast. This last proved tolerably good when we partook of it ; but I was not at all satisfied with my driver's charge for fare, much less this delay after having been made to start so soon in the morning. Still more was I mortified when we shortly afterwards stopt at the very respectable town of Caldwell, and in a delightfully cultivated country ; after having wasted my time in feeding, and tiresome delays at the inn on Lake George, when we were so near to Glensfalls, its roman- tic scenery being only about half a mile from the town. The country here appeared to me in a much better state of cultivation than any yet past, and resembled many parts of England. " The town of Saratoga, the termination of this day's route, is near the springs of waters of Saratoga, and noted' for its healthy and sweet situation. It is handsomely built, with a very long and elegant bridge, that seemed lately to have been thrown over the river Hudson, here about 200 yards in width. We had now to change our vehicle for a stage on runners. The hotel where we rested was -^ery handsomely fitted u]> with portraits of most of the leading characters in town. * Our road from this became very heavy, owing to the thaw ; and it was with difiiculty we reached Albany, considerable doubt having arisen as to the propriety of crossing the ice on the river; but however, thank God, we got over in safety, and were glad to rest for the night at Albany. " After engaging places in the stage for New York next morning, we were ushered into the common eating room, a most splendid apartment, both as to size and elevation ; but in point of fitting up and appoint- ments generally speaking, by far the best inn I had seen as yet. " 16th. Although I had taken great care to desire we might be called next morning in good time, I was awakened with a report that the stage was about to start, and without us — the people of the inn having forgotten to call us. We were not long dressing; — and while in this state of hurry, Mr. Steinkoff, a gentleman from Quebec came in ; he was on his return home, but without the mail — he said there had been some mistake in sending it to Halifax. When we were seated in the stage, doubts arose as to danger in crossing the ice, for water was here standing a foot deep upon it. The opposite stage led over, we changed carriage, and it was to return here upon wheels. When we were getting into this stage after breakfast, one of the passengers called out that he had left his portmanteau behind, and would not proceed. We drove along a branch of the Hudson, or North river, — the country very picturesque. In passing that particular part, where the banks of the river resemble long walls with low battlements, and where there are two waterfalls, one running contrary to the other, our first horse took fright at the hill or some object near it, and suddenly jumped on the back of the oflf leader, with his fore legs resting on him : the reins became very much :; I'ii 90 entangled, and the passcnpjcr who sat forward, too much frightened to aff'ord aHsistiincc. I moved forward ; when the rest of the pa.ssengcrs having alighted, I desired the driver to give the reins to nio, and go himself to extricate the horse. This was some trouble, and certainly not without danger to us all, was at length etfucted. Our breakfast to-day cost five sliillings, and our dinner tiie same. " Since leaving Plattsburg, our road has laid through mountains, and been very pleasing to me. About IJ o'clock in tho evening wo reached Fishkill, a neat town of considerable magnitude : and soon after our arrival, the gentleman who had left his portmanteau behind, also made his appearance. " We started early on tho morning of the 17th, and were much delighted with the country ; we passed a great many handsome seats, and enjoyed frequent views of the Hudson : on the whole the country is prettier, and much better cultivated than we had conceived of it. We reached New York about 3 o'clock, and found some difficulty in pro- curing a private coach to take us to Mr. Day's. I found him from home^-but was most kindly received by his sister, MxS. Ferguson, and afterwards by himself. "17th. I made it my first business at New York to call on Mr. Colden, tho mayor, to whom T had letters of particuU-r introduction. As he was not at home, I left my card, and called at the Post office. We stayed here eight days, meanwhile endeavouring to gain all possible information. " In some respects I succeeded, and in consequence forwarded a number of letters to England. All the letters entrusted to mo have been delivered, and I received many attentions. I got a peep at a map in Mr. Broadman's possession, containing the names of most of the British claimants, and corresponding exactly with that seat me from England. Mr. Day and myself dined with the mayor on Washington's birthday, there were several French naval officers present ; the dinner was very handsomely served up, very much in tho English style I have met Major Leigh Hunt, to whom a power of attorney had formerly been sent, but this only miscarried. Respecting the prosecution of our claims, he gives no hopes of success, whilst other persons on the contrary, oiFer some. On considering tho whole, I determined to proceed. Mr. Colden informs mo, that the grants are not yet arrived at New York, as they are in train of copying at Washington, I resolve to proceed to the Federal city, and send letters directing the grants to be detained, and not sent forward, until again advised. " We left New York on the 23rd Feb. in tho stage for Philadelphia, which place was readied the same night, after very hard driving. " I called on Mes.jrs. Pater-ion & Griffith, who received me in a manner the most friendly ; and as our steamboat went oiF the morning after my arrival, I .am recommended to stay for a second boat, that is now mending. I am delighted with this city, which for variety and neatness, far surpasses any I have seen. Among its numerous public buildings, the new bank, built of white marble, is very beautiful. n ^^^^ also " On February 28, wc left Philadelphia in a fitcambont for "nultiniore, and at a lew miles from the fort, we landed and took in more j)a( fl ; ■ il 94 Hon of I'hil.idolpliia, viz., the lioHpitals, by Mr. Griffin, with whom thoy viiiKul Hovcral times. From IMiiladolphiu thoy went down tho Dela- ware hy Hteani to Newcuntic, thence in a Htaj^o acrosH u necic of hmd, tho diMtanco of fourteen miles to Frenulitown ; fntm Fronchtown by stoaiu a;^ain to IJaltiin(»re, through ))art of Cliesajteake Bay. Tho pas- flafjo wa.s boistorouH, and tho Hteaniboat iiiuch crowded ; most of tho pas- sengers were ill, and my father with Home others, wore obli;!;i!d to go without a bed. Keaching Baltimore at night, thoy w(;re inforiued a Stage would Htart next morning for Washington, of which conveyance they availed tliemscilves ; having iirst walkcid round the town, looked at and asi ended the monument then erecting to Wa.sliington, KiO f(!et high, and admired the beautiful view its lieight commanded of Baltimore and the Burrounding country. In tho la.st two days tho woatlior had cluingod again to cold, with liigh wind, and the dust proved annoying." Tin- fol- lowing letter will bc-it explain how the businetis atood when thoy reached Washington. " Washington, March 18, 1820. " Sir, — I have tlic honour to enclose to you, tlio papers I received yesterday evening fiom the Land Office relative to the grants of land referred to in your letters of the 4th and 10th of this month. " The papers herewith transmitted arc : — Ist. A grant to Elias Durn- ford, Esq., of Pensncola, of a town lot (No. 14) and garden lot attached to it, dated Tensacola, October 4th, 17()5, and signed Geo. Johnstone. 2nd. A grant to Samuel Fontcnellc, surgeon of the Royal Artillery, of a town lot (No. 67) and garden lot attaclied to it, dated and signed as above; and 3rd. Fiat for a tract of land containing fifty acres on tho river Amite about three miles west of lake Maurcpas, at the deserted vil- lage of Pascagoulas, in favour of Elias Durnford, Esq., dated August 1, 1772, and signed Peter Chester. " Though I am assured to the contrary, I yet fear I am not possessed of all the documents you expected, nor ha^e I been able to forward these in duplicate, but I will with pleasure endeavour to procure for you any papers which you may find wanting. I regret it lias not been in my power to procure a certificate from Mr. Jones such as you wished. Not being acquainted with that gentleman, I transmitted an extract of your letter of the 10th May to Mr. Forbes, and requested him to endeavour to procure the certificate for me. You will perceive by the answer sent me by Mr. Forbes, copy of which I have the honour to enclose, that Mr. Jones's memory does not serve him sufficiently to enable him to point out the exact spot of ground on which the house of the late Lieut.- Govcrnor Durnford was situated. I beg you will not hesitute to inform me if I can be of any further service to you. " I am, Sir, &c., G. Crawford Antrobus. *' Lieut.-Col. Elias W. Durnford." This letter bears reference to the site of his father's residence at Pensacola, which to his inexpressible regret could not be ascertained. Having arrived at Washington, on examining the public deposits, nu- T7 95 morons pnpors bearing relL'nuce to Li(>ut.-Col. Durnford'H grants and estutcH in Wo»t Florida, were indeed i'oniid to be lodged tliere, bnt un- fortunately they proved to be only eopieK of the original deed.-* ; tlio true documents having been elnewhero depoHited : it in most likely tiieHe were destroyed, not being atterwurdM diwovered. Some mendier.-* of the family declare, the propirly higned and surveyed griintH were brought over to Kngland by Col. Durni'ord, and packed in a trunk, had Imcii do- pohited in an upper room while he waw Mtationed at I'lymouth ; but after his prenmture death, children and ignorant pcr.sonH obtained access to this chamber, where they wantonly nmuwd themselves in their disligurc- lucnt and destruction. The discovery of the iiu-ompleteness oftlie.se re- cords, though it caused severe disappointment to my fatlier, did not in- duce an alteration in his lirst intention of j)roeeeding to New Orleans. Only those endowed with the kindliest graces of all'ection, and tendor- cst of lilial recollections, connected as these were in this amiable son's memory with that awful moment, that had forbid to him the bereaved child, the sad consolation of shedding a tear over the loss that nature never repairs, — can imagine the sensations called up by all these traces of bis departed parent. Feelings of pleasure outweighed even bis melan- choly reminisccncoa; and when at Charleston he discovered the plan of the town of I'ensacola, which .Judge liay liad preserved and valued so highly, and that seemed to furnish the re(iui»ed infornn\tioii respecting where his father's mansion had stood, almost the greatest concern ho ac- knowledged to, was, the not being permitted to carry with him that me- mento. Judge Bay would not resign it, but, as his graphically written letter on the subject says, presented it as a gift of much value, to be by W. S. Crawford, Secretary of the government of the United States, de- livered over to safe keeping at Washington. This letter is well deserv- ing of regaiii and preservation. To the Ilonoiirahle WilUnm IT. Crawford, Secretary of the Treiuury of the United States, Wnshimjton. " Charlestown, May 28, 1819. " Sir, — In consequence of a paragragh in a letter I received the begin- ning of the present month, from Mr. Edward Jones of your department, signifying your wish to have the plan of the town of Pensacola in West Florida, I now do myself the pleasure of enclosing the original, as laid off by Lieut.-Governor Durnford, wlio was a distinguished officer in the Engineer Department, and who came out with governor Johnstone when ho first took possession of the Provi. ■ j, after the peace of 17G3. This gentleman was appointed Lieut.-Gover or of the Province, and Surveyor- General. He was a scientific man, and a good draughtsman, and this plan may confidently be relied upon, by the American government as an ac- curate and correct one. It usually bung up in the council chamber, where the governor and his council met for the purpose of granting lands, and other public business, and all the grants which ever passed under the seal of the province, referred to the numbers on this plan. To every town lot there was a garden lot annexed, as an appendage; as I' Nil 'II 1 M ■ I' 1 ' 96 I l! > r\ I* It i: It 11 .ill il you may observe by an accurate examination of the plan itself. The town lots are nuuibered 'vith black ink, and the corresponding garden lots with red ink. The reservations for public uses, are delineated on the plan, and they were handsome and useful, but I fear have been sadly altered and deranged by the ruthless Spaniards. " At the time the Spanish armament came against Pensacola in 1781, I was Deputy-Secretary of the Province and had the .are of the public records, wl. loh had been packed up in boxes on the first approach of the Spanish fleet on the coast, in order to be deposited in one of the bomb proofs in Fort George. This plan was, however, in the hurry and con- fusion of packing up the records, overlooked, and was left hanging up in the council chamber as usual, till the afternoon of the day the Spanish fleet came over the bar into the harbour ; when, going into the council chamber, which commanded a fine view of the entrance into the harbour, the plan accidentally caught my eye, upon which I immediately took it down, and carefully put it by int(, a box of my own papers, where I have preserved it ever since. I h:tve now great pleasure in consigning it to your hands, as one of the public functionaries of the government, for *he benefit and use not only of the government itself, but for the ci- tizens of that part of the Union — and all I ask in return is, that I may be furnished with a copy of it, as I had a valuable house and sevsral lots of land in the town, which I never disposed of. Perhaps, sir, if you had a neat engraver near you, it w^uld be an easier way of having copies struck off" than by copying with a pen, which will be very tedious. " It might justly be considered as presumption in me to touch upon Pensacola in a political or commercial point of view, as you are, or must bo, fully acquainted with its vast importance to that quarter of our Union ; but as I resided seven years in that town before its fall to Spain, I think I may be pardoned for saying a few words upon the salubrity of its situation and climate. " The town itself is situated upon a handsome plain upon the northern shore of the harboiir, which is large and spacious : capable of containing all the navies of Europe, if they were to anchor in its basin. It is open to the sea, except a narrow island called Santa Eosa, which protects the harbour from the ocean, and is delightfully fanned by the sea breezes during the summer months : at each extremity of the town there is a fine running stream of fresh water, a never-failing supply both for the town and shipping : and in rear of the plain on which the town is si- tuated, there are beautifully rising grounds, hi" and dale, for several miles into the country, where you occasionally fall in with charming streams of fresh running water, equal to any on earth : wh^-re ten thou- sand beautiful seats for gentlemen might be established. There are no low grouads in +' e neighbourhood to make it unhealthy ; the whole sur- rounding country is high and dry ; and if I were called upon to fix a spot on the continent of America, which I thought the healthiest — I should, without hesitation, put my finger upon Pensacola as the favourite spot. I have thus touched upon the climate and situation, because I am well oonviuced that thousands froir all the south-western parts of the 9f slf. The g garden leated on een sadly in 1781, he public ch of the the bomb and con- ;ing up in e Spanish le council } harbour, 5ly took it 3, where I ionsigning vernment, for the ci- hat I may evaral lots sir, if you ring copies )US. »uch upon e, or must ter of our to Spain, ilubrity of B northern containing It is open rotects the ea breezes there is a th for the ;own is si- for several charming ten thou- lere are no whole sur- n to fix a althiest — I e favourite sause I am arts of the American world will resort to Pensacola and its vicinity, as a retreat from fevers and agues, and the other disorders incident to the low un- healthy portions of the country to the westward of it ; and because the salubrity of the climate has hitherto been little known by the great bulk- of the citizens of the Union. " I have the honour to be, Sir, with great consideration and esteem, your most obedient and humble servant, " (Signed,) E. H. Bay. " The Hon. W. H. Crawford, Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, Washington." This letter was written from Charleston, May 28, 1819. This plan, denied to Colonel Durnford, was subsequently burned when Washington Senate House was destroyed by fire. Few hearts are so cold ns to refuse to enter into, and mingle with the feelings of my father, while occupied with this journey ; and extraor- dinary as the assertion may seem, it is no less true, that so deep was the mournful impression he ever retained of the moment he first became sensible to the loss of a father, that though so many years had since flown by, not one of bis children knew the startling manner in which it had been announced to him, until the fiat of recall to his own spirit had gone forth ; — the secret had remained buried in nervous agony within the mcst sacred folds of his soul. It is not exactly remembered in what part of the States he again met Sir Charles Saxton, but that he did so, is certain from the annexed anecdote in his own words : " Another time I travelled with Sir Charles Saxton, his servant, when we sat down to the long public table, refused to be seated with his mas- ter. But American ideas of equality could not comprehend such refined distinctions ; they sneered at and ridiculed the man so much that the punctilious point was ceded." In some part of the journey, supposed to have been in the transit from Washington to the river Ohio, when only in company with his son, pro- ceeding in the common stj^e of the country, on alighting at the Inn, where as usual a public table d'hote was in readiness, the American sub- ject, who had driven the vehicle, and with whom the travellers had con- versed as they came along, could not be induced to take a seat at the same table with the English gentleman^ whose notice and bearing re- called the ideas and prejudices of the old world once familiar to him." Another of my father's anecdotes : — " I relate what literally occurred to me during my journey up the Ohio, when at the table appointed for. the travellers who arrived with the stage, as I and my son Philip were sitting discussing our meal, a smith quitted his forge, with his brawny arms and coarse shirt sleeves, tucked up above the elbows, and com- posedly occupied a seat by our side." The annexed note of expenses incurred on this journey, will explain the route he pursued ia returning to Canada. ?f' !'J iil ii f I ii \\ I i I I ■. II &8 February, 1820. From Quebec to New York £19 6 9 February and March. New York to Wasbiui^ton, 30 6 1 March. Washington to Wheeling, 31 8 March. Wheeling to Louisville, 10 8 March and April. LouisTille to New Orleans, Mobile, Pensacola, back to Mobile, and New Orleans, 101 2 3 May. New Orleans to Natchez, St. Helen's Court, thence and back to New Orleans, -±2 16 llj May and June. New Orleans to Havana and Charleston, 7113 June. Charleston to Petersburg, North Carolina, 29 9 8 June. Petersburg to Washington and New York, 25 12 9 June and July. New York to Quebec, 20 5 10 382 1 lOi Embarking from Louisville on La Belle Riviere, as the French de- signate the river Ohio, he undertook the descent of this dangerous stream at the season of spring freshets, caused by the melting of the winter's snow. The passage was hazardous. Imperfect were both maps and charts of the strangely beautiful river, whose navigation is at all times embarrassed by rapids, rocks, sandbars, logs, snags, and in one place an eddy, which forms a whirlpool. New settlements occasionally diversified the wild aspect, and between the small town of Manchester and the river of the little Miami, he noted Ripley, I'Havanna, Neville, and Moscow, all built of brick, and villages not marked down at that time. My father went on shore near the small settlement of " Deer's Creek," and picked up a superb pair of deer's antlers, which were afterwards pre- served by being handsomely mounted as "handles for a carving knife and fork, to this day used at the table of one of his sons, to whom they were presented. He bid adieu to the Ohio on the evening of March 27, to enter the Mississippi, the gigantic Nile of North America. Although the general aspect of this vast stream disappoints, it has bluffs and bends to admire, and he noted the pretty settlement on the St. Francis River, with its flocks of paroquets. On the chart, my father held in his hand while dor wsending the river, is written in pencil of legible character, *' St. Francis- ville," close to " Thompson's Creek," and the first land he saw of which his father had once been owner. The settlement is not marked on the chart. An item of travelling expenses is marked " a horse and waggon ;" this was necessary to enable him to visit his father's widely scattered grants, and was sold on embarking in the John Fulton, being the first voyage made by this rather noted steamship. The dangers and fatigue experienced in the course of the long inland river route, determined him to return by sea. At New Orleans, he saw Mr. Thomas Dumford, the Lieut.-Govemor'js ^ent, who disclaimed being in possession of any of his property. The greater part of what should have been my father's and his ftunily's, wa8 occupied by squatters, so that even had the original grants been forth- coming, tedious and expensive lawsuits must have been necessary before regaining them. Again at the HaVanna, his father's presence rose before him ; and continuing his course to .-Chaiieston, he was there introduced ■ li: TTf ff 99 to Judp;o Bay, after perusing whose interesting letter, but one judgment can be formed of the reception given by him to the son of Lieut.-Governor Durnford. In after years, when speaking of the features of the fine countries through which he then travelled, he was accustomed to dwell much upon the beauty of the Ohio ; while recollection of the muddy waters of the great Mississippi, always by their menilon drew from him a sigh. For New Orleans he entertained an unconquerable anti- pathy. In 1819, Mr. Joseph Durnford, a distant relative of the family, had undertaken, partly on speculation, a journey to New Orleans. He reached the city in safety, since my father's letter from New York men- tions his advice given there. From this period the unfortunate younj man was no more heard of, and surmise whispered he had met with a violent death. With these suspicions then, but recent, uppermost, and during the journey of return to Canada, at whatever stage or town he rested, always being disturbed at table by the company of a man, who placed himself before his view, as if with the especial object of watching for and detecting his movements, my father was sometimes sensible to considerable uneasiness and alarm. In July of the same year, Mr. Charles Roberts, who had been secre- tary to Lord George Germain, at the period when the Floridas were in the possession of England, addressed a letter on the subject of these claims to Major Philip i Jurnford, who equally with Col. Elias Walker, their brother George, and three sisters, had been made, by the father's will, coheir to the estate. . . " London, July 17, 1820. " Dear Sir,— -I did myself the honour of writing to you from New Orleans early last spring, shortly after my arrival there, in which I enclosed ybu a list of the lands belonging to your father's estate in West Florida, and also forwarded a duplicate of the same to your brother Eliaa in Canada : which I hope were duly received. I afterwards had the pleasure of mee^'ng Sir Charles Saxton in Orleans, who seemed much interested in the success of your claims, to whom also I gave evtry infor- mation I could in the business ; and as I understood he was on his way to this country, via the Havanna, you will probably have heard from him on the subject. "I arrived in Edinburgh about six weeks ago, where I was laid up with a severe fit of the gout, and could only get t^is length a few days ago. I have brought a commission from the court in Louisiana, to take evi- denee before the American Council to certain points necessary in the suits pending in the Court there, before I can proceed fartJier in them — the mar- riage of Mr. Gould with Ann Organ, to prove the death of said George Gould and the probate of his will, to prove the marriage of the widow with me, &c. ; after which I shall return again to Orleans, in order to prosecute farther my suit, but shall return to Edinburgh first, where I shall remain some time, perhaps until September. I am in hopes of finish- ing here in ten days; and if I can render you any service with respect to U 1 t 1 1) 1 1. i I i '!' i r.\ (■■■ i II 100 your business it will afford me pleasure ; or any information I may have, that you want, apply to me without hesitation, and it will be cheerfully given, either to your family or to any West Floridean. " I remain, dear sir, yours most sincerely, "Charles Roberts. « No. 23, Cullen St. Finchurch St. " London, July 17, 1820. " P. S. — Charles Roberts, Edinburgh, will readily find me there after I leave this." In writing to his brother. January 5, following, Major Dumford thus expresses himself of this gentleman : " Mr. Roberts is again in New- Orleans ; and should you require anything from him in the way of infor- mation, he will be most happy to give it you. He is a wonderful old man, being upwards of 85, and appears to have every thing in his recollection quite perfect for many years back. He tells me he often quarrels with our relation, Tom Dumford." In this letter. Major Philip offers to pro- cure a cadetship to India for his brother's eldest son, in the Company's service." The attention so strongly directed to Lt.-Governor Durnford's claims, in which Col. Dumford was but coheir, was also at the same time turned by him to others, which if successful would more individually have bene- fited him. His separate claims were in behalf of Samuel Fontenelle, Esq., the husband of the same aunt, to whose care when an infant he had been confided. The vast grants made likewise to Mr. Fontenelle, appear almost incredible, were they not attested by his widow, a lady who bore the derivation of the noble territory that might have been hers, with a greatness of mind, and uncomplaining dignity, conferring the more honor on her memory, from the fact being known to few even of her confined circle of friends. Anticipating a period of nearly 12 months, it seems scarcely believable to add, that at a time of universal peace, such as was 1821, Mrs. Fontenelle complains her first and second letters re- mained unacknowledged, and consequently unreceived by the nephew. A letter is subjoined from her, bearing on the subject, together with another to his sister Maria. " London, Miss Adair's, Cecil St. Strand, April 10, 1821. " My dear Elias, I received your letter through Mrs. Day, which does not mention (nor in any other) receiving one addressed to you and Maria, in the same sheet, containing my first power of attorney, sent off immedial^sly upon your desiring me to send that directed to Mr. John Day, New York. I therein gave you an account of Mr. Fontenello's having twenty thousand acres of land upon the Mississippi, and 13 or 1,500 upon the Mobile River j which Tom Dumford may know of, as he was in your father's office (but a mere boy) when the governor presented Mr. Fontenelle. Dumford was offered a great deal of money could he have procured it for more than one to purchase ; it was so very valuable, and convenient for shipping Staves to Jamaica : accordingly our laud was partly cleared for planting, 101 and money in our pockets, instead of the expense we must have been at for that purpose, as Mr. F. intended it. He had his white servant there, and he had prepared three negroes. I have a receipt of, I believe, £20, paid for that land. All the Mississippi lands, Mr. Fontenelle, I think, purchased conjointly with a Mr. Roberts, secretary to Lord George Ger- main long since dead. All his land he bequeathed *i you in his Will (after my decease) which Maria must know, having heard the will read. ** Those Halifax or Nova Scotia lands, upon the river St. Johns, I wrote you, were taken from Mr. Fontenelle (he not being settled there himself) by the Governor, to provide for the American royalists who flocked there during the war. Those were purchased of General Halderman. He promised to assist Mr. F. in recovering some cou»pensation ; when in pursuance of Mr. F's continued ill luck, the general died, and Mr. Fon- tenelle was obliged to submit to all the loss. I sent a second power of attorney through Phil — you do not mention that ; not having seen any of the documents belonging to us. I fear those lands, nor any other will only make us spend more money to little purpose. I am truly sorry you had such a long, fatiguing, and disheartening expedition ; but as you had two purposes to induce you to undertake it, you were perfectly justified, in order to satisfy your own mind, that no exertion on your part was neglected. In respect to myself, I had so little faith in the success of the case, that not one farthing should have passed out of my pockets, to establish my claims, had not your interest been more concerned than my own. I hope the anxiety you have had, and still experience, will not injure the health, and life of one so precious to his family. Elias is quite well, very good, and apparently to me grown very steady. He now and then spends a few hours with me, but does not like my place so well as Bungay, and all that country. He says the young men call him young Bungay. He and I went to St. Martin's church yesterday, the hand- somest in London, and where we heard the most elegant as well as excel- lent discourse, by one of the best preachers ; and I observed Elias remark- bly attentive, and he expressed himself much gratified. Indeed I never saw a youth before so desirous of going to church. As I am going to relate all the little chit-chat news to Maria on the other side, I will con- clude this, with best regard, and kindest wishes to you, Mrs. Durnford and family : and believe me, I am, my dear Elias, " Your most affectionate aunt, • ' "Elizabeth Fontenelle. " P. S. — I very much wish to see all your family, I hear so good an account of them ; good and handsome as they may be, I think they can scarce exceed Elias." , " Mr DEAR Maria, " The letter Y wrote you from Bungay, last spring, where I passed the winter, gave you an account of my proceedings up to that time, since which I have been travelling many long miles, and although relating where, and in what manner I have been entertained, cannot be very interesting to you, at such distance ; yet I know ^ou will expect the detail, !!'' 102 and that it will give you pleasure to learn t^at my first trip was to pay a visit to Carolino, where I found tboiu (Mr. and Mrs. Davis) settled in a small but comfortable house, neatly furnished ; and Caroline looking stouter, and bettor than I thought could ever be possible, from her ap- pearance, when I .aw her at St. Johns (near Bungay). Spent four or five weeks very pleasantly with them, when finding the situation too warm for my health, (Henley-on-Thames), I determined upon going to Ramsgate; accordingly I set o£F for town to meet Elias, on his way to Lowcstoff, to visit Mrs. Pickover, thinking he might like to take a week's trip with me ; but I found to be even one week from the dear part of the world, he has passed so many happy days, and is so fond of, would cause great sorrow and disappointment— -time always flying too fast in that excursion. Therefore as giving him pain, would be still more so to myself, I left him to pursue his road towards dear Bungay, and returned to Henley : but finding the heat still very oppressive, 1 took Mrs. Davis to escort me there (Ramsgate,) and pass a few days until I was settled in a genteel boarding-house, when the pleasant society I met in it induced my stay- ing three months. " I bathed the latter part of the season, and reaped great benefit, so much BO that I was constantly flattered with my improved appearance. This t)kce is very pleasant — has the longest and handsomest pier of any in Eng- J ind, plenty of excellent warm baths, and 20 machines with strong hand- some faced women to attend you. The best company visit this place in preference to Margate, although that is the most lively in respect to the flocks of all sorts of company and public amusements. It is only a short ride from Ramsgate, and there are most convenient carriages to, and for every hour of the day. We used to ride in parties of a morning round the country, and to public breakfasts which were full and genteelly attended, every week : — one was sufficient to satisfy me, as I am not fond of public amusements, unless it is to accommodate young people. The marine boarding house, as well as handsome lodging houses, stand delightfully pleasant, upon a high cliff, which commands a view of the sea and pier ; and the marine boarding house has a large library, with music, and raf- fling of an evening. Elias said he had been there one week, with his aunt Kirwan, and found it very dull. " In the middle of October I returned to town, to repair and make some new dresses (as I was rather worn out) ; and as I still continue so uncom- fortably deaf (which is a great drawback upon all my pleasure in society), I put myself under an aurist's care, which costs much pains and still more money, particularly as it detained me longer in town than I wished, without finding benefit, as I fear mine is a nervous deafness. Elias visi- ted me twice, but was too much engaged in studying for his examination for me to see him oftener. He passed his vacations at his aunt's (Mrs. Kirwan's,) and I eat my Christmas dinner with Caroline. Phil, also came there for two or three days. "I believe you know Mrs. Belcher, — Colonel Sheldrake's niece. She is very much afflicted with a cough, and I think from her sickly appearance, he will soon have to seek another wife : which, between you and I, I believe he will not much regret. tor jiji 103 " The first week in January I proceeded to Bath, where I passed 9 weeks, the happiest in my life. Such a pretty gay place. The Spurgeons, Ac- tons, Shorts and Azozas from Lowestoff were there. The two latter have resided there three or four years, although tliey make but a poor appear- ance in such a genteel part of the world, yet are so well satisfied that no other can be so agreeable. You know Miss Short: she still corresponds with George Pearse, who is tutor to Lord Olive's son, through the interest of your brother George. . " I went to a ball with Mrs. Azezas, where there were 400 people, without being incommoded. The rooms are so large and handsome and well fitted up with four tiers of benches on each side, and at the top, for to see them dance. There are two balls and two concerts every week generally, well filled in the season. Captain Fade called upon me, and I often saw him. The family Mrs. Pugh is with wcre.there, and I knew many others. I went to a grand rout and three plays, and these ended my public amusements, as I enjoyed myself much more with our own society at the boarding house playing a rubber : we sometimes had four or five card tables, and the most agreeable select society of ladies and gen- tlemen you can imagine : four and five livery servants waiting at dinner, at which there were two sorts of soup, — the best of fish — fowls — roast and boiled meats — hashes and haricots — constant removes of game or something as nice — after which sweet puddings — tops and bottoms — fruit — tartlets — ^jellies and custards alternately — and all the nicest ever tasted : tea and coffee morning and evening — ham and eggs at breakfast. Very large drawing room, and dining parlour, with good sleeping rooms. We paid three guineas a week, and three — six servants : the landlady, a nice genteel person and single woman wlo presided at the dining and tea tables, to take all trouble off" the company. I must not forget to give you an account of your cousin Durnford, from Wales, as I know what pleasure it will give you to learn that she is mar- ried to a Colonel Peacock, a man of good fortune, a widower— one child at least I am told, — of course iruoh older than herself. I called upon them, and introduced myself. Sho and her second sister, were seated in an elegant drawing room, delighk.i'ully situated in Green Park buildings. They seemed delighted to see me. Mrs. Peacock is a sweet, and pretty looking young woman : her sister very agreeable, but not quite so pretty. A lady and gentleman at our house gave me the account of their wed- ding, as they were lodging in the same house with the colonel. He, seeing them walking by the seashore, upon making enquiry found them to be of a family he once knew, therefore called, and married the eldest daughter in lesa than three weeks. I was pleased that I called upon them, but not much so, when they returned my call by leaving cards, although they enquired, and the servant told them I was within, as I had waited all the morning in expectation of seeing them. I therefore saw no more of them, except twice in the street, when she always looked glad to meet me. He is a genteel, well looking, middle aged man. Phil, is going to Bath in a few days, (Lieut. Col. Philip Durnford, of the Royal Artillery,) on his way to Mr. Walker's I'll ! t I'l ! ; 104 at Kcdland, perhaps ho may seo them. I know not how long I shall roiuuin here, or where I shall go to next, as it depends upon circunistuiices. " I think Mrs. Day will give you all the Suffolk news, therefore will proceed to tell you, that I have been favoured with a visit from Mrs. Kirwan, (Mrs. Durnford's sister.) I liked both her, and her manners, and very much Mr. Kirwan. Elias was staying four days with thorn, so that I saw him also. I walked in the park with him yesterday after church. His aunt was so good to spare him for the purpose. This is a very good boarding house, and there are 13 ladies and gentlemen at present here, but still I feel alone, not having any friend to go about with me. Phil, is always so much engaged, that I have not yet seen Woolwich. I am always thinking to go and see Hush at Chelsea, but know not when it will be put in execution. " Here is a Mr. and Mrs. Helsham with their son and daughter on their way to Paris. They offered me to go with them, politely saying, they would take good care of me. I should like much to see France, but I dare not venture myself with strangers. If Phil, calls to-day, I shall give him this letter to enclose to you, fearing he will be soon off for Redland — if he does not come I will write it on another sheet, as I am afraid you will not be able to read this bad scrawl. You will see I want your assistance in the pen-mending way. I am glad to learn that you and all your family enjoy good health, and that the situation is agreeable. 1 had almost forgotten to tell you, that I staid three weeks at Rodland, They all spoke very kindly and with admiration of Mrs. Durnford. As she knows them, and the situation altogether, I need not say more than that Charles has a genteel pretty wife, and three children. He lives within three miles of them. Farewell my dear Maria, and accept the best regards of, "Tour affectionate aunt, " Elizabeth Fontenelle." In 1 822, his eldest son Elias received a commission in the Corps of Royal Engineers, and he was then allowed the privilege of visiting his family, while as yet unemployed. This gratified in no slight degree the pride and affection of the parents of this promising young man, who re- turned to l^jngland the autumn of the following year. The following in- formation is an extract from a letter addressed to Lieut. Elias soon after his return to England, and bears date, Deo., 26, 1823. " Papa has just re- ceived a curious note from Sir Francis Barton and Mr. Primrose for the sixth of January, inviting him to partake of a rump and dozen. Are you as much puzzled as I was, to divine the moaning of the phrase ? which in plain language means, a dinner given to decide a wager, and that too about as great nonsense as ever entered the imagination of man.' The wager related to a story told by Sir John Sherbrooke, Governor- General of Canada, when papa first went there. It was this. During a voyage made soon after his brother's death, as Sir John was sitting alone in the ship's cabin, and in the evening, his brother's form appeared to enter, and pass to a chamber within. Sir John rose, called, and foUow- 106 ed him. Of course no person was discovered. In these days, when many sober minded persons look inquiringly into the mysteries of table- turning and spirit rapping, the strong impressions left on the mind of one so little likelv to bo led astray by the weakness of inmgination, must not be treated with levity. The wager depended [as to by which doors the spirit entered and departed, and most likely was not decided. SECTION IX. Excursions. — Citadel progressing. — Letters from Mr. Loder and Mr. Orabam. — Promotions. — Fossil recreations. My father's descriptions recall the incidents of some of his journeys. When ascending the St. La renoe, after passing the lake of St. Francis, the shores of which are flat and distant, he always enjoyed the variegated scenery presented by " ihe Lake of the Thousand Islands," or rather sixteen hundred, wh Te tha green foliage of pretty islets, enlivened by the sun of summer, was contrasted now and then with a squatter's log hut, and again made a yellow corn patch look bright and conspicuous. In turn he marked the low creeping mists, that settle over those positions, where the wild fowl revel in unwholesome fields of rushes ; one hour listen- ing in this diversified vicinity to the plaintive cry of the bald eagle, the next, in descending the rapids by bateau, to the songs of Canadian boat- men. He often spoke of the journey to Craig's Court as being one of much interest. " The lakes, rivers, and mountains of this tract are wildly striking, and the almost impassable roads leading to the outlet of lake Memphremagog, form such a recurrence of stony and rutty passes, of jolt- ting corduroy, with its alternate swamps, as caused me," using his words, " to look out eagerly for Copse's Ferry, where was to be found the set- tler's log hut, with its rude substantial comforts. Mountains, capped and covered with the finest wood, surround this beautiful lake, and shut out its waters from view, occasionally breaking and affording the most romantic peeps. The road is continued among clusters of hills, low marshes, and almost endless corduroy roads, formed from the trunks of newly felled trees, the bark still on, laid across the green morass. " Tlie territory, stretching from lake Memphremagog to the St. Law- rence, encloses a tract of forest and water wilderness : but in the neigh- bourhood of the outlet, the labours of one apostolic man, the late Dr. Stjwart, bishop of Quebec, have opened a pathway for Christianity to blossom. The oasis appeared with its bridge, mill, church, school-house, and clean looking settler's hut, to diversify the wild scenery. As I went* on, sometimes my progress was impeded because a bridge was carried away during the late heavy rains, and occasionally the road becomes so muddy and rough as to prove nearly impassable, though I still travel through a fine country, much broken with high land. At times, a good road occurs, and now and then fine clearances are seen very distant among the mountains, the features of which are very bold. MM III I Ij i lilt ! lOG " The village of Waterloo is not far from the bankn of the Yamasoa. This river is only navigable for canoes, and frc(juent falls interrupt its course ; but as the most considerable of these does not exceed 12 or 16 feet in height, they fall probably more within our ideas of that broken surface of water, which forms a furious rapid. Notwithstanding the high uneven roads and continued corduroy to be encountered, this dis- trict is considered thickly inhabited for a new settlement. From its finely wooded hills innumerable clear springs and streamlets run, and the first step towards civilization is marked by the culture of Indian corn and the potatoc." No part of the Canadas can compete in natural beauty with Quebec. Descending the St. Lawrence from Montreal, after passing the current of the Richelieu rapids, caused by the navigable portion of the stream's running between two ridges of granite rocks, sometimes at low water ap- pearing 12 foot above the level of the water, the shores of the river im- prove in interest, and begin to contrast their wooded banks with those of the flat unmarked country round Sorel. They soon rise in height, particularly at Point Platon, succeeded by Cape Santd, and Pointe aux Trembles. Increasing interest is stamped on the aspect of these shores, the nearer they approach Quebec : bold, steep, and covered with ever- green and gloomy foliage ; beyond these the pine wooded summits of dis- tant ranges of hills repose blue and tranquil. As soon as the mouth of the river Ohaudi«^re is passed, the steep summit of cape Diamond appears, bearing on its rocky front the sweeping lines, and lengthened projections of its citadel. The traveller shoots by the spot where the gallant Wolfe landed his brave little army, and looks up to the height be gained and died on. Large rafts towards autumn, or the fall of the year, are floated down from the upper lakes, to be broken up and their timber deposited on the beaches of the lumber coves of Diamond harbour, Wolfe's Cove, Sillery, &c., which are lined with stores and shops ; wharves jut out ; and ships and steamers are here built of large size and tonnage. Cape Diamond rises full south perpendicularly from the river to the height of 320 feet. The labour of raising the vast blocks of granite used in building the walls of the citadel, was expedited by my father's causing an inclined plane, of 360 feet, at an angle of 45 degrees, to be made,* which, worked by a windlass of 4 horses, assisted the conveyance of all kinds of stores and materials employed while the fortress was eon- Btructing, lifting them with facility from the wharf when landed, to the Bummit.f ■*■■. !'■ ■■•■,'-:v:i -:':'' -iv, ^ .>.•■■;;■:-'.. ,■, ^r ■' .ij--^-' * " Angle of depression 44° 25 with a slope of § of a foot to a foot." — Mr. Alexander Sewell's remark. t This important work, to the commencement and carrying on of which the years ray father spent in Canada were principally devoted, is styled by War- burton in his Hochelaga, " the Gibraltar of the West." The following doscrip- tion of the citadel is taken from Hawkins' Picture r( Quebec : " On the extreme left, on the highest point of the promontory is Cape Dia- mond, rising 350 feet above the level of the river, and terminating towards the to be 107 The numoroufl parties of Americans — summer visitors to the Canadas—- never i'ailod to tlocit to the salioiit aii^lo, named by the Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie, " Durnford Voint," to gaze down upon the spot where Montgomery was killed, and from whence in the contrary direction the field 18 likewise discernible where Wolfe and Montcalm fell. Strangers acknowledge no walk more enjoyable than one round the citadel. No- thing can exceed in beauty the situation of this fortress, with its oircum- valliiting line of rampart, long extent of casement, adapted to the concen- tration of a largo body of soldiers ; its wide ditches, ample magazines. Bubtcrraneous passages, noble entrance, and conveniently placed signal tower. The barracks adapted for the occupation of officers, and built bomb proof, spread along the brow of the perpendicular height, over- hanging the river as mentioned already. Ti»e view from the top of the block-house takes in a wide extent of country, — the Plains of Abraham, with two martello towers, the St. Lawrence with its long vista of darkly wooded receding shores, and the mouths of the rivers Chaudidire and Etchemin, reflecting on its blue waters the features and shadows of nu- merous fine coves and projections, together with scattered shipping. Point L^vi, on the opposite side of the river, with the pretty island of Orlr and nior») faint, till their vinta also HceinH to oiid at cape Tournient. Tho pieturentiuo guide to Quebec and its environs thtiH npeaks of tliis prospect: " 1 ho cvo ro«tH with a p(?culiar feeliiif; on the Hinall fj;roup of hillH which form tno portal to the wildernesH, uiitrod by any liuinan beini; except tlio In- dian hunter, aH far as Hudson's Bay: indeed it is worthy of remark, that tho lower ranj^o of mountains scon from Quebec, is the boundary, aB yot, to all civilization." My father's mind wa« ever alive to that keen Hen«e of honorable re- sponsibility, at once tho pride and oharaeteristio of tiie British officer, and ho was always most anxious to render an advnnta<;t of the , to do BO. ioty with iblo with it II hirgo reat as to not con- en in tho iispccting injured a take no icr. This nod from ni under- irofession h correct ch lie ex- to many, i months ird frosts c fortress [ilgraston rry being 3y, R. E. ispcctable [uired on le quarry be con- advanta- worked ; 3hould go d though and duty onsidered amonnblo, on attaining ili« rank of full colonel, it oauncd him extreme ounuurn to iind tliu cumniand uf the garriKon of Quebec waH given to an officer junior to hiniHelf. lie roprcHcnted in writing to Loru DulhouHio, in iorciblo language, the Hlight he couHidered as received in conHcuucnco of being paHHcd over as a full colo!)cl, and to hih no HUiall pride unl Hatis- faotion, when his Lorddhip's pleasure became known, was grutiticd by tho subjoined intimation of his just wishes being accedud to. " Head Quarterh, York, May lil, 1826 : The promotion of Lieut. Col. Durnford, commanding lloyal Engineers in Canada, to be Colonel in tho Corps of lloyal Engineers, having appeared in tho ' Courier ' newspaper as an extract from the ' London Gazette,' Colonel Durnford will be pleased to assume the command of tho troops in Lower Canada, agreeable to the instructions contained in tho acting Deputy Adjutont General's letter, and its oncloaurcs, of March 31 last, addressed to Lieut.-Col. Evans, which as well us all other papers and documents, connected with the command of tho troops in that Province, Col. Evans will bo pleased to deliver over to Colonel Durnford." " Licut.-Col. Evans will resume the command of tho Montreal district : and Col. Hawkins will continue in tho command of that of Quebec, sub- ject to the orders of Col. Durnford, commanding the Province." "Signed, C. LbDER." " Dear Sir, I annex a copy of an order received this morning from York, and to bo issued here this day. You will perceive that it puts you in command of the Lower Province, with two able district comman- ders to assist you. Yours, Wm. Kemble." Tho representations which raised him to this elevated position, were carried on in a correspondence with the governor's Military Secretary, Colonel Darling, and when the point in question was decided m his favor, he was ordered to give uj^ all the letters composing it. This injunction he obeyed to the letter, retaining no copies in possession. This is much to be regretted. Mrs. Durnford considered his claims as therein defined, in a manner, at once equitable, dispassionate, manly, and eloquently truthful. Did any punctilious point of delicacy then exist, now that the parties concerned are removed from tho shifting scene, it no longer re- gards them, and the important consequences and benefits conferred on bis corps still operate. To his children they would have been interesting and valuable. Another letter on the subject of his father's claims in West Florida and Mississippi, shows that a correspondence was still continued by him on the subject. General Land Office, August, 20, 1825. Sir, — I have the honor of receiving your note of the 19th inst. enclos- ing a copy of a letter from Col. Durnford, and I enclose herewith certi- fied copies from the reports in this office, of all the claims in the name of Mr. Durnford, that have been acted upon by the Commissioners for sell- ing claims to land in Louisiana. i i ni i» 'il \r I: ilf i. i \l '■' no [' When Mr. Durnford in 1820 furnished this office with a 'ist of his claims to land in the late province of West Florida, he wap furnished with certified copies of lill the information in this office, in relation to them, and he was informed that the records in this office did not contain any reference to the grant of 1,300 acres at the mouth of Brijn Creek, or that of 10,000 acres about 12 miles northerly from Manohar to which he refers in his letter to you. " With great respect, your obedient Servant, " Henry Urwin" Addington, Esq., " George Graham. " Secretary of Legation, Washington." - ,;' .- v..f. > In 1818, a year after his arrival in Canada, the Cathedral Church of Quebec requiring repairs and alterations, with the addition of a wall to enfilose the whole space, the business, which hardly fell in with the rou- tine of a military engineer's duty, was devolved on my father, and this assistance he rendered without receiving for it any fee or emolument : while strange to add, a guinea per day, enjoyed by his predecessor. Major Henderson, for this service, '.;0 whom it was first entrusted, was discon- tinued to my father. . *, Thoug hfond of his professional duty, the occurrence of an eccentricity would sometimes annoy him : on one occasion, fifteen years later, having made some repairs to the house of an officer of rank, the question was demanded of him by the general " how the hall that was paved or painted in black and white was to be cleaned ?" Vexed at the enquiry, at once puzz- ling and startling, he requested that reference might be made to the housemaid. ,;,- The fortifications of the upper town of Quebec have five gates, — St. Louis, St. Johns, Palace, Hope, and Prescott. Through the first lies the direct road to the Plains of Abraham. Palace gate, needing repair, was taken down and entirely rebuilt by him. In addition to the citadel of Quebec, he constructed Fort Lennox, Isle-aux-Noix, with various works, barracks and stoiiehouses ; and the general supervision of the Eideau and Ottawa canals also belonged to him. A Sunday evening's parade was usual at five o'clock, on the esplanade, in front of the engineer's office, after the conclusion" of Divine Service. My father obtained exemption, for such of his men as had families, from attending parade, and took pleasure in seeing them walk up Louis street, in company with their wives and children, to the citadel, after the con- clusion of the 3 o'clock afternoon service of the cathedral. It afforded an agreeable novelty to many in observing such indulgence granted to soldiers, while the bugle was sounding, and the banderolles were planted on the ground they passed. * Several surveys of the wild untrodden tracts of country intermediate with the great Lakes of Upper Canada and the Ottawa River, were made a little subsequent to this period. My brother, a lieutenant in the 68th Light-Infantry Regiment, was selected for employment on one. His experience in travelling and exploring could not have been inconsiderable ; Il^f it of his irnished lation to > contain a Creek, bo which rEAHAM. hurch of a wall to the rou- and this )luiEent : )r, Major 8 discon- sentricity r, having stion was r painted inoe puzz- de to the ites, — St. 3t lies the spair, was citadel of us works, ideau and isplanade, e Service, lies, from uis street., r the con- t afforded granted to :e planted ermediate fere made the 68th 3ne. HiB siderable; 111 the journey he had made with his father, a few years previously to New Orleans and Pensacola must have inured him to the pleasant hardships and fatigues of forest and lake travelling. Here follow a few extracts from letters written in the year 1828, July, 28. "\fe have had a week of dismal weather. It is said, that these easterly winds have not extended below the Saguenay, but we have hud scarcely any thing else since you went. I am sure we have not had three days without rain, and now the weather is ra'her fine, yet there is a storm regularly once or twice a day. Mama was very unwell for several days after your departure, and talked of going down to Malbay, but the continued rains have prevented us as yet, and 1 begin to be afraid we shall not go at all. Lord and Lady Dalhousie have been absent some cime on their trip to the Saguenay. They were obliged to anchor ten days at the Brandy Pots. Sir James Kempt is certainly to succeed. A grand ball is to be given to them soon, but the managers are in great perplexity to find a room. There appears to be no other alternative than to borrow the old chateau, which people think v.ould not be pleasant to his lord- ship. We saw in the Albion to-day, P 's promotion without pur- chase. Mr .has got his vacancy in the Cuch. P has been lately at Brantford on the Grand River with General Darling, to witness the distribution of the Indian presents. It is there Mr. and Mrs. Lugger reside. P says they are very nice people, and extremely kind to him. Mrs. L. gave him a pair of mocassins for mama, and a letter as a slight acknowledgement, she says, of hev gratitude for mama's kindness to her niece, Mrs. West. Captain Phillpotts arrived last week ; he brought the books for Charlotte from my aunt Kirwan. We have just parted with a party of Americans, the Mayor of Philadelphia, his lady, and another lady and gent, all very pleasant people. We walked round the citadel with them the evening before last. The flagstaff has just been erected at Durnford Point, — that round corner, near the telegraph blockhouse, the most magnificent situation that could havebeen chosen for a flag staff." Each country, province, or town, preserves distinctive features of re- creation, particularly adapted to the habits, tastes, and progress in civili- zation attained to : in Quebec the winter's sleigh, and interminable ball, prevail: in summer, trips and excursions to the several localities of interest, not wanting in this magnificent country. Prom 1820 to 1830, the same places of favourite resort were visited as now, and the governor- general, attended by his staff, and a fashionable sprinkling of ladies, ex- plored the ups and downs of the grand St. Lawrence, from Niagara and the Ottawa, to the Saguenay. The floating castles that now waft so many gay parties in search of recreation and health, to these and intermediate watering places, were not in existence ; and, while envious winds and rains excluded the enjoyment of July's sun,we read how Lord and Lady Dalhousie were in their progress to the river Saguenay, detained and forced to an- chor for ten days at the Brandy Pots. In March of this year, 1828, the cone, formed every winter at the foot of the faUs of the river Montmorency, rose to the height of 120 feet, ff? 1 i'l |i|:lj ,1' il ' 1 1 V 1 If ■I i ^ 'I ^4i I ^ '! ill 112 1 \i ^ r or forty in excess of its usual aooumulation ; and an accomplished amateur artist, Colonel Cockburn, of the artillery, then commanding that corps in Canada, was never weary in studying it from different aspects. A family letter of March 3, same year, mentions, " Papa has lately been on a tour of inspection as far as Ii.ingston by the way of the Rideau ; he under- went great fatigue *rom the badness of the roads and boisterous weather." Another family iettc, dated York, Upper Canada, Oct. 17,1828, details a little more domestic news. " I fear I shall not be able to procure any Indian curiosities. The Indians in the neighbourhood of York possess nothing worth having. I might, had I known your wishes sooner, have procured some from Drummond's Island, but that post is to be given up to the United States, and the oflBcer, with the party of our regiment, has been ordered to abandon it without delay ; had he remained I should have asked him to get some." A partiality for Indian relics and ornamental work, ^'^as indulged by the family, particularly by the female portion, as 's letter has shown, when he was requested by hia sister to obtain for her some speci- mens from the Indians of the upper country. On leaving Quebec, like the partmg hero of a favourite fairy legend, he was charged to bring home to his friends tokens of remembrance. On a former occasion, when he was my father's companion and fellow traveller to New Orleans, one said, " bring me some of the fine ' Spanish Moss ' that hangs on the trees of the Missis- sippi ;" another said, '* I should like the paw of an alligator;" a third, ** a few specimen leaves plucked in the wilderness." It is unnecessary to add, these simple requirements, were answered. Papa himself added to the collection some elegant canes for walking sticks, he picked up in going through the sugar plantations of Carolina, and several brightly plumaged little birds, caught and stuffed by himself. One domestic inconvenience, at that time common at Quebec, was the want of good water. The wells, with which most houses were provided, were largely imbued with lime, so as not to be drinkable, particularly that of the one my father occupied, near the Plains of Abraham. To supply this indispensable need, his fine horses were put to the harassing work, every day, of bringing a large cask from the river, up the toilsome and steep ascent of Quebec's hill streets, over roads so roilgh that each pace the animals made, shook and sprinkled some of its contents. It became necessary in February, 1828, a.id while the citadel was constructing, to blow up the whole face of one of the old French bastions, for the purpose of erecting in its place other works in accordance with the plans carrying on. The exercise of mining, this service afforded and displayed, was so much to the satisfaction of the governor-general, Lord Dalhousie, who, attended by his staff, had witnessed the explosion, that, at his lordship's expense, a ball and supper was given to the non-com- missioned officers and privates engaged in the work, in the newly erected basemates. This entertainment took place during my father's absence in Upper Canada ; and on his return he had the pleasure of hearing that vw 113' both Lord and Lady Dalhousie, accompanied by several oflScers and ladies ' of the garrison, condescended to honour it with their presence. Whera- " fore my father was called away from participation on this occasion does not appear ; he expressed himself at this time, as well as invariably, fully'; sensible to the uniform good conduct of this 5th company of sappers, both ' as soldiers and military workmen. During this display, notwithstanding a mistake made by the repeating bugle's sounding sooner than agreed on, the mine went off with simulta- neous and magnificent effect, greatly to the admiration of the large number *^^^ of spectators assembled to witness the explosion, among whom not one en- '^ joyed the sight more than did the commanding engineer himself. In the course of operation it appeared that in working while the intense cold of winter exists, and ground is much frozen as in Canada, it is easier to exca- vate into rock than earth. To the depth of four feet the ground was then found to be a solid mass of ice. The citadel at this date appears to have been occupied. A melancholy scene followed shortly after it became so. A soldier, in a state of intoxi- ' cation, stabbed his corporal, for which cr'.ninal act he was sentenced to be shot. On a bright morning the garrison were summoned to witness his death ; nine of his comrades were chosen for the service, to whom were presented as many muskets, eight only being loaded. To each man, therefore, was permitted the faint hope, that his gun was uncharged. On the first occupation of the citadel. Lord Dalhousie gave the name of " Durnford Point" to the spot on which the flag staff was erected, the round corner near the telegraph blockhouse, and a magnificent site it is ! This point does not appear to be known by the name now ; no other has been bestowed on it. Fashion and favoritism presided over the sciences at Quebec. Geology in particular, at this period attracted to its explorement, in Canada, a train of able followers. It became the idol accomplishment of the ladies, and was enlisted in charity's cause. Scientific and elegant little treatises were furnished to the ladies of " a Bazaar Committee," making " organic remains " call from the rocks of Canada in behalf of the orphan's needs and claimjs. One indefatigable geologist, Mr. Baddeley, of the Royal Engineers, did not disdain to aid the appeal, by fitting up neat boxes containing correct specimens of Canadian rocks and minerals. The investigator penetrated the untrod, unnamed wildti-ness, to collect and observe, with unwearied attention, and make the testing hammer echo among the rocks and hollow ravines. Nature repays, in all her departments, with still increasing delight and interest, to her devoted stu- dents. Organic remains of great beauty were discovered in abundance, and the philosopher opened, daily, fresh leaves in the promising volume of Canadian geology. Their four main deposits were considered to be, Drummond's Island, Montreal, Beauport, and Montmorency. These time-telling records of ages of mysterious evolutions, in durable fixed- ness are called up, to be again cas^ upon a world, that still looks upon them, " so fair and wonderful." The natural steps of the river Montmo- renci, nine miles from Quebec exhibit them in beauty and variety. This St ! ifi p I i! if ■ 1' li I'n 1 ■■' lijl I' " IJr !ii 114 spot my father often visited ; it is situated midway to the favoarite shoot- ing ground of Chateau Rioher ; nor did he ever fail to select it as being one of the most eligible and delightful spots of interest for his visitors, and one he the most enjoyed driving them to. Corallines are found in the deep natural sections formed by this rapid and wild stream, and among them the madrepora favosa, known by its near resemblance to a honey-comb, and turbinolisel Nature acknowledges here some of her long unrecognized creations. Fragments are found of the vertebrse of the enorinite, an animal aliei from unknown times, to existence ; and of testacea or shells, turbo, and trochus. The ammonite, in particular, with its blue coils of stone, at once sacred, magical, and classic, was at this period abundantly found, with the curious orthoceratite ; on the limestone banks of this darkly-wooded river, rich in fossil endowments, historical recollec- tions and romantic scenery. Many have been the curious and important conjectures hazarded, relating to the fossil remains of Multilocular univalves, and additional interest is attached to the natural steps on the river Montmorenci, as the shell of the many-chambered orthoceratite has been found there. Natu- ralists say, that of the twenty-two genera which have been found in a fossil state, the nautilus alone survives. One supposition affirms the animals, of which fossil shells only are found, no longer exist; the other, that they exist, without quitting the bottom of the ocean. This theory seems to make the power and actual ascension of the animal essential to and dependent on digestion of its food, but the nautilus never launches its glistening pearl of beauty except upon the tranquil wave, and this would lead to the belief, of the mechanism of its tiny bark being acted upon by some atmospheric oi *idal cause, lending this gentle buoyancy, while the sensitiveness the little creature manifests to danger, and expertness in hauling in its sail and rapidly sinking, displays another characteristic to delight and amaze, amid the multiplying varieties of never worn out nature. This fascinating voyager had engaged the attention of Viney, my young- est brother, since, after his untimely death, the subjoined translation was found in his writing desk. The subject remains equally inexhaustible in its elegance of inquiry and depth, as it was in the days of the classic. The Maid who Selenoea hight • ^ Sends me, oh Venus Zephyrite, The due first fruits to thee, — Who used a Nautilus of late. Fearless to roam and navigate On the high sea. ' For, hoisting tinj yard and sail, */ I skimmed along before the gale ; But, where sleek calm hath reign, . Had oary feet my bark t'impel, .-> > Pulling — this my name doth tell— With might and main, 7 '• "- M'Ji: 115 ' Till stranded on the Julian shore. V ' I In halcyon calms I shall not more [< Delighted glide along— 1 But thus to me is honor shewn,— Oypris I a toy before thy throne, I now to thee belong. Arsinoe I sweet in thy sight By Clinias' daughters' gift, so bright, May she thy favor gain ; Her virtue and her skill of hand, She learned in far Eolia's land,— Smyrna's domain 1 Written at Spike Island, October 9, 1833, by V. Durnford. My father took much delight in the society of his friends, and many talented and good men frequented his sociable house at this time. Such topics were often discussed ; indeed they generally constituted the leading subjects of interest, as soon as the last brilliant ball, or adven- 'turous exploits of the morning's driving club, were exhausted in detail. He enjoyed lectures on these things, although, both in conversation and in the lecture room, they were handled with the reserve looked upon as indispensable. He admired and enjoyed both, without acknowledging any particular predilection for the science. He conpidered his time as the peculiar property of his country, that had entrusted to him the prosecu- tion of important works ; and large expenditure of the public money, to which he devoted his bsst energies. To the close of his life my father would say, he believed no man had seen more wonderful things than himself, and expressed a determination to commit to writing the various vicissitudes of his life. Among these, the hazards, fatigues, strange scenes and objects witnessed in descending the rivers Ohio and Mississippi, were often adverted to by him. For ten years after returning from New Orleans, his time and chief attention were given to the advancement of the citadel on Cape Diamond, which he conducted with the energy and ability peculiar to his character. The elevation of its walls and ramparts was necessarily carried on daring the intense heat of Quebec's summer, benefitting, while in the course of construction, thousands of poor Irishmen employed as labourers with the sappers. There are days at Quebec exceeding in heat the West Indies ; on some of such, when the carefully cooled drawing-room was scarcely endurable, the workmen's toil on the cape was still to be urged forward. During the months of July and August, appointing task work was a kindly palliative to the labourers, who would often be seen at work by the first twilight. Among the miserably poor immigrants who throng in tens of thousands the shipping and shores of the St. Lawrence every spring and summer, so much pride is often found, that a starving Irish- man has been known to undertake removing snow for oQe shilling per day 'I \ I. !; I: ^iP 1 V i It ; ( i 1 i * ■I 116 1 1: engaging another man to do the aotual work, and dividing — himself re- maining in idleness — the shilling with his friend. This strange, and by no means unusual agreement, was, on one occasion, accidentally discovered by my mother, the actuating motive being that it was beneath the first contractor's dignity to exert himself for so trifling a remuneration. The admired crystals are now rarely to be met with, which first gave name to Cape Diamond. The skillful lapidary formed them into neck- laces, broaches and other ornaments. The supply is nearly exhausted, those found at present in the " Black Rock " being only large enough for pins. The occurrence of any decided organic remains in the " Black Rock" of Quebec, has not appeared, — either vegetable or mineral. The rook itself was generally considered to be a limestone. SECTION X. Arrival of Commissionera.— Col. By. — Letters of Charles Durnford. — Berbiee. ^Returns to Quebec, and then to England with his family. — Portsmouth. In 1825, commissioners from the corps of Royal Engineers came ont to report on and arrange the laying out designs for the Ottawa, Rideau, and Wellaud canals. They were soon followed by Lieut. Colonel By, the ofl&cer to whose superintendence these works were confided, who fixed his residence at Bytown, so named, first from himself, but since designated Ottawa city. This outlay of expense and labour, that has altered the face of Canada, and operated so richly in benefits not only to the lum- ber trade, but the general commerce and civilization of the country, was commenced and carried on during the five years of Colonel By's residence in Canada, under his especial management and direction ; yet my father annually visited these works, affording Colonel By the benefit of his advice. They were on a scale of magnificence hitherto not attempted in Canada ; which since that period has been so abounding in grand and varied provincial outlays. Colonel By enjoyed from his wife a handsome private income, and his showy hospitable mode of living made him universally popular and beloved. From Kingston, October 16, 1826, the young oflScer in the 68th writes, " We arrived here early this morning with Colonel By and family, whom we overtook at Presoott — they proceeded in the steamboat for Miagara." -—A later date says, " We found Colonel By at Hull busily engaged in building a bridge, and about to open the canal." As the steamboat which goes there was out of order, Mrs. By, (who is indeed a very charming young woman, and her health is much improved,) was obliged to go to the head of the Long Sault, viz., 60 miles, in a boat with an awning fixed for the occasion. This occupied two days, and she bore the fatigue very well, and quite enjoyed the trip. Colonel By is certainly a very good-natured man : he told me that my father promised him, as he said, that he should have me in the spring, bat I am afraid the business would not at all suit me. Captain Bolton has got a most magnificent house at Montreal ; it exactly answers to the description given of castles of ancient times* 117 ,In subsequent years, Colonel By continued my father's most valued friend — in fact, they wore attached like brothers. The many impedi- ments encountered from strong currents, spring freshets, when the win- ter's ice breaks up and floats down the rivers with irresistible strength, and other hindrances, that would sweep away or damage in a night the labour of months, as it distressed and disappointed Colonel By, was equally felt by my father ; and the services rendered by the latter at such times, was accompanied with sympathy. The repeated occurrence of frustrated attempts while constructing the bridge at the Hog'c back, in particular, caused much additional expense and vexation. The following letter bears date Quebec, July 6, 1829 : " "We have just returned from an excursion to Saratoga and New York. Mama was advised to go to the former place for the benefit of her health, which has not lately been very good, and she intended to stay there a fortnight or three weeks; but not finding much benefit from the waters, after a trial of three days, we left Saratoga and went on to New York, where we also staid three days. All our friends there were extremely kind to us. We saw Mr. Ogden's family, and Miss Morewood every day ; Mrs. Bell was also very attentive to us ; and we saw Mrs. John Day's sister, Mrs. Henry Wilkes. New York is certainly a very fine Oity, and the country round is very rich and well cultivated ; but the scenery of the Hudsou river surpasses in beauty everything I ever remember seeing. On our return from New York, we visited the ** Cats- kill Mountains," and the " Kaatskill Falls." The appearance of these lofty mountains from the river is magnificent ; and the ascent to them, to me at least, was frequently quite terrifying. At the height of three thousand feet, is a very large hotel called the " Mountain House," where we staid two days. The view from this is the most extensive I ever saw, and the scenery of the Kaatskill Falls is extremely fine. We saw also the celebrated " Glenn's Falls," and " Baker's Falls," on the Hudson, and the falls of " the Cahoes" on the Mohawk, — all of which are very different from those I had seen before. Mr. Edward Ferguson returned with us from New York to Montreal. We passed through Lake George. I had heard a great deal of this lake, and expected to see something very beautiful, but it really exceeded my expectations. It is enclosed among very high and wild mountains, and scattered in many parts with Wvely little islands. The water is as clear aa crystal, and delicious to drink. The sites of Fort William Henry and of Fort George were pointed out to us as we passed along, and many other spots celebrated in the records of the French and revolutionary wars. The scenery, and the whole country of the States, are certainly superior to Canada ; and although I do not go so far as to say, I admire everything there, I certainly saw a good deal to admire. " We had a great mortification on our return home. At Montreal we heard that papa was expected up in a few days, amd accordingly made haste to return to Quebec ; but what was our surprise when a letter was sent on board the steamboat at Three Rivers, by which we found that papa had passed us in the night a few miles from Montreal. Papa's vexation was still greater than ours, as he had calculated on meeting us. t:' ; ') ■ I c liW. ini 118 It must have been about this period, or a year later, that while in Lord Dalhousie's suite during a progress to Nova Sootia, a false step my father made in stopping from a boat, precipitated him headlong into Lake Temiscouata. f* !•;'!'* " It is now right to recall to notice, Charles, the fifth of the six sons my father could then boast of From early boyhood, Charles was subject to violent bilious attacks, which appeared so alarming, that for two years he was sent to make trial of his native air, at Newfoundland, whence he returned, to outward observation, with a frame full of muscular strength, and a mind of great energy and generous feeling ; at the same time, from his peculiar physical constitution, disinclined, perhaps unequal, to deep study or much reading. His parents thought to strengthen his mind and body by the further advantages of English air and eduoar tion, and so sent him over to the care of his uncle. Colonel Philip Dum- ford, then stationed as commanding artillery ofiicer at Devonport. His life there, progress of ideas, and particular mould of character, are best described by himself, in the perusal of the few charming letters preserved of his, the first written while living with his uncle, the rest subsequently penned from Berbice, the only records of his life during the period of his absence from his father's roof. Devonport, February 3, 1828. " My dear J : , I received your two liind letters of 10th October and 21st November, and am daily expecting more. You all appear to be very sparing of your letters ; I having received only two in eight long months. I have been in this place ever since I arrived in England, not at school but studying at home : I have one master who teaches me Latin, Euclid, Mathematics, &c. ; another French ; and another who gives me lessons on the flute twice a week. I cannot say that I like England particularly well, nor so well as Quebec, for I never get a ride by any chance ; in fact there is not a good horse in the place, except those that the officers possess. " I had a very agreeable surprise about a month ago. On returning houe after a long walk about dusk, and going into the parlour, I saw somebody standing in the middle of the room in regimentals. I offered him a chair, thinking he was some officer come upon business to my tincle. After eyeing him for a minute, I thought him a very odd-looking fellow, for he burst out laughing ; and looking at him again I perceived it was Mr. Greorge, who had put in here with a foul wind, along with his depot on their way to Cork. I was the more surprised as I thought he had been there for two or three months. They were wind-bound for a month in this place. We have heard from him since his arrival in Cork, but he did not tell us how he liked it. We have had several jroyal guests here. H. K. H. the duke of Clarence was here when I landed, and again a few days ago to present colours to the Royal Marines, and is expected here again in August to see the largest ship ■ 119 in the navy launched. Don Miguel, the Prince of Portugal, who is going to take possession of his throne, has been wind-bound hero for three weeks nearly, on his way there. Ho is a young man about 26 years of age, dark complexion, and rather short. He has reviewed the troops here three times, and they are all heartily tired of him, and so is every body else. He gave us a splendid ball at the assembly room the other night, and waltzed, — the only sort of dancing he likes, — with a great many of the Devonport and Plymouth beauties. We have very good assemblies here during the winter once a fortnight; I attend there sometimes. They tell me this is the winter — we have had snow once, it staid upon the ground an hour ; and this is all I have seen of the winter yet. But such a place for rain ! we have a little every day with a very few exceptions. The people here have a very strange idea of America. They very often ask me if they are not all Indians at Quebec. It is quite the fashion to wear moustaches, and I have a most noble set : my uncle won't buy me a pair of razors, and therefore I let them grow. Several old friends are here, — Peter Turguand amongst the rest, and a whole brigade of Furneauxs. The Southwaith, the vessel that I came in, is now here. She is going to Bermuda. Pray excuse this scrawl, as I am in a very great hurry, and the post is just going oflF. With love to all at home, believe me, dear J , your affectionate brother, " C. DUENFORD." " P. S. I shall write again by the first opportunity." At the foot of this affectionate and gentlemanly letter, his uncle unoourteously wrote : " Charles is such an idle fellow that he will not write a word more to you — he will not be fit to have his commission these five years. My love to you all ; and believe me, your affectionate uncle, ^ , ■ «'P. DURNFORD." "Devonport, June, 1828. " Mt Dea.r J : , I received your letter of April, last week, after it had had a voyageof nearly three months : it must have gone to some out of the way place, or the gentleman you sent it by must have forgotten it. We had a grand review of the troops yesterday, to prepare them for the arrival of the Duke of Clarence, who is expected here next week to see a 120 gun ship launched. The great folks are inconsolable at the idea of the pulling their pocket" will undergo before he makes his exit, which will be in ten days or a fortnight after his arrival ; it is then generally thought he will go to Ireland for a short time. What with him, the regatta club, and the races, we shall have a gay time of it next month. There will be a grand ball at the assembly room, for each of the latter, to which I intend going. I assure you, I need something to divert me, having been here nearly a year without any employment; indeed I am excessively tired of such a monotonous life as I lead. " There is one thing that this place excels in — that is boating. There i . ' if ;ft, ;| 1 1 i' ii i l|'' J! a-' W i| nl 120 aro sovernl sninll rivers that run into the harbour and sound, up which tho rich inhnbitanta very often make ploaHuro parties. Four of our mess and myself rowed nearly thirty miles up one of these tho other day to a place called tho Warehcad ; on our way up we landed at a place called Cotheil ; it is a castlo 900 years old, and is very well worth seeing. I cannot give you any description of it as it would take up too much room in my letter. Wo then continued to tho Warehead, where we had a plentiful supply of drinkables and eatables, and then rownd homo in three hours and twenty minutes. I had a letter from Viney the other day, but I cannot get anything out of him ; ho only says that ho is not a corporal yet. Mr. , a surgeon of artillery, who dined at the mess to-day for the first time, says that Mr. , a handsome young man, also surgeon of artillery, who was ordered to onibark for America in a few days, went to a large ball at Woolwich, wnere he met a Miss Campbell, a relation of the Duke of Argyle's, who asked to bo introduced to hiui ; but he was engaged and could not dance with her. The next night he went to another ball, where ho danced with her once or twico, and thought her rather smitten with him. Two days afterwards he received a letter from her, directing him to meet her at a grand breakfast. He immediately went to a lawyer, and looked over her father's will, and found her possessed o'' fifty thousand pounds in landed property near Suffolk. He took his friend the lawyer, a license, and a post chaise to the breakfast — she said she was determined to have him — ho said he had no objection, shewed her the licence, and away they we.it and were married. I suppose he will change his mind and resign. With love to all at home, believe mo, my dear, your affectionate brother, C. DURNFORD." " P.S. — You may as well send me Dr. Carson's letter, when next you write." (ThisJetter most probably contained a medical certificate.) When ho wrote the next letter, addressed to his father at Quebec, ho was an ensign in tho G5th regiment. His commission had been pur- chased by his father, thqpgh most of the family friends believed his uncle had paid for it. In fact, every expense the nephew incurred while re- siding with the Colonel at Devonport, the lessons of his masters, even the mess expenses, were scrupulously charged, and aS' scrupulously dis- charged to the bachelor brother. He first joined his regiment in Ire- land. "Fort WelUngton, Berbice, Feb. 23, 1830. *' My Dear Father, — I have sat down several times with the inten- tion of writing to you, but have never been able to accomplish more than three or four lines, in consequence of the myriads of mosquitoes that are continually tormenting us here ; — I am happy to say that they are leaving us fast, as the dry weather is coming on. I think you must have been a little surprised at hearing of my change of residence ; I as- sure you I was. Things are conducted in a very odd way at home, for the juniors of all ranks were ordered out ; on a Saturday morning our 191 Dep6t was formed, and on the Mondny following wo mnrchcd for Cork : we remained there ton days in oonHeouoncc of the trunsftorts not having •rrived ; and as I had been huHtlcd iroin No. 1 to 6, I expected to have embarked with tho second division, but was equally surprised at the colonel's ordering mo to embark with Head Quarters. We sailed from Cork on October 20, and had a very fine though rather tedious passage of 41 days to Barbadoes, where we were rather disappointed ut hearing that we wore to prolong our voyage to Berbice : as tho regiment was under orders for Barbadoes, we expected at least to have remained thore Bomo two or three years. On our way here wo touched at Demerary, whore our loft wing are at present stationed. It is a very low swampy plaoo, if possible worse than this — we were only there two days. On the evening of our disembarkation, December 23, I marched here ten miles with a detachment of 30 men, and was followed by the other subaltern, our captain (Warren) having the command of the third ship, I received the other day a budget of letters from my mother and yourself, for all of which I am much obliged. Yours, of September 22, 1 received at tho same time ; and I hope that before this a letter of mine which I wrote a short time before my le "ig Fermoy has reached you, in which I said that uncle Philip had ordered Mr. Marriott to pay Thompson ; Cater, cap-maker ; and Corn, boot- maker, thd amount of their bills — a list of tho articles which I had from each he gave Mr. M. He also desired him to pay £15 for a bed for me, &c. ; but my uncle must have writen to you before this and have let you know more fully than I can, his arrangements with Mr. M. Instead of Mr. Marriott paying my entrance money (£20) as was my uncle's wish on joining, Mr. M. said he thought I had better draw on Greenwood and Cox for it, which I did. I believe my uncle made some little arrangement with uncle George about my living with him, but I do not know what it was. You are indebted to uncle George for nothing else on my account, as I settled every thing with him before I left Dublin. I am much obliged for your kind aid of £10 per quarter: it will enable me to live very comfortably. I have not yet drawn any of it, nor shall I for some time, as I am not particularly in want of it. I must conclude this rather abruptly, as there is a Post going to Head Quarters immediately: and wishing you all health and happiness, believe me, my dear father, your ever dutiful and affectionate son, C. DURNFORD." The next is to his sister : ^ - »Fort Wellington, Berbice, Sept. 20, 1830. " My Dear J , I think I am in your debt about half a dozen letters, but by the length and goodness of this I hope to blot three or four off the score. I wrote about three weeks ago to my father, and I believe I said that I had received some newspapers from my brother (for which I was very thankful), and also letters from my mother, yourself, Charlotte, &o. : for one of yours I am particularly obliged ; I mean that >:'l ' ii' ^I'iiiM '."■ ■'* 1 ' r; . . Mi il iW) 122 it 'i i£ il II!: i «! in which you give mo bo much voiy good and roligioas advioo. And indeed I stood in nood of something of the Hort, as I have not had an opportunity of hearing a sermon, I boliovo, for those last twelve months. Among my numerous and important duties, I have one that you may think I am not particularly adapted for, thatof /)a/-fora ; I am obliged to officiate whenever my captain is out of the way ; and of the two I think the men like me the beat, as I don't read quite so much of the sorvioo as ho does. " A number of our people are beginning to tiro already of this beautiful country. Two have gone home, one Hails to-morrow, and two more have applied for leave. You ask mo for a long account of myself, of my pro- ceedings, and of the country. Of myself, I have little to say except that I am tolerably happy, as much so as one can bo in a plaoo where there is no society and little amusement of any Hort, except shooting. Of the appearance of the country : you can fancy an immense meadow as level as a bowling green, planted with black currant trees, (for the cotton plant is in appoajraiioo very much like them, and grows about the same neight,) without even the addition of a single hedge, or fence, or tree, except about the managers' houses, and here and there a solitary clump of cocoa nuts, — ^you have a flattering picture of this beautiful country. Here ditches do the duty of walls and fences, of separating the estates, and also of draining them : all the estates are obliged to be drained, and they are intersected wilh them in every direction. We are about a foot higher than the level of the sea. There are dams in front to keep the water out at spring tides ; and the same behind to keep tho water of the savannah in the wet season from coming in. Thero is not a hill of two feet in height from this to Demerary ; and I am told that for hundreds of miles down the coast it is just as flat. Even the sea seems discon- tented with the ' muddineaa of the land:' instead of the beautiful blue or green that it is at Barbadoes, or any other island, it is here of a nasty muddy colour ; and at low tide, instead of the sandy beach there la nothing to be seen but mud weed for several miles out. Tho only thing that I can say in its favour is, that thero is always oxoellent shooting on it. The blacks have rather an odd but expeditious way of traversing it. In the centre of a board about six feet long ond one broad, a sort of chair is nai! d, on which you sit, and a black fellow kneels behind on one leg and a' i'.«, and shoves you along at a very clipping pace with ihe other. But if you happen to slip ofi", — and it has been my happy lot once or twice, —it is like falling out of a sleigh into soft snow, where you sink to your middle but come out neither so clear nor comfortable. " The sickly season is I believe over or nearly so : our men within these last ten months have suflFered very much both at Berbice and Demerary — we have lost six sergeants ; and out of two companies and a half at Berbice, last month they had few more than forty men fit for duty, and nearly 100 convalescent. Our company here have come oflF very well, though we had a touch of the Colony a few weeks ago : it carried off throe of our finest men in a week, and what was rather odd, two of them the right and left band men of the company. The colonel has written from shal Wh and lids stro havi ^TT 183 Borbioe for nomo of our healthy iu«n, and wo are to get cripplcfl ilk exohnnco. T think it very prnbablo I shall ji^o there in a few «layH, afl young Wyalt has had a very H«vere attack of fever, and I have written in to uiTor him my berth fur Home time. Captain Smith of the Knf;incers wa« at Demerary when we arrived ; he very kindly Hont me word that if ever I paid them a visit, ho would always have a bod for me, and that I might make his house my home. He is gone to England to be m»rried| and intends coming out to settle at Barbadoes, as I have heard. I wrota to George last week, and also to my uncle George. Philip, I see, com- mands a detachment at Shannon Bridge. I have not written to Vinoy lately, as I don't know where he is, or anything about him. I am very Borry to h(v.r of this business in France, but 1 think Charles the Tenth deserves to lose his crown, since he cannot keep it when ho has it ; bt'sidcB I bolievo he is a priest-ridden, press-binding old . I am thinking about paying you a visit next spring, as I intend applying for leave of absence. Lot me know if ray company would be acceptable at Quebec. if not, I \7ill think of some other place where I may direct my peregri- nations. And now I have almost exhausted my communicativeness, and I think your patience. With best love to all at home, not forgetting to thank m^ mother for her present, I will put an end to this epistle, by flubscribmg myself, your ever aflfectionato orother, . ., C. DURNFORD. " Caroline's very learned epistle requires a great deal of mature delibe- ration before I can think of answering it, but I will do myself that honour, please God, one of these days. — C. D." Six months afterwards he writes thus to his father : " Fort Wellington, Berbice, March 13, 1831. " Mt Dear Father, — I wrote a long letter to my sister Elizabeth a few weeks ago, but I do not know whether I said any thing to her about a certain cough that I am troubled with. I was in hopes that it would have got better here ; but for the Inst three weeks we have had such dreadful wet weather, continued rain day and night, that although I have taken the greatest care of it myself, it has gained ground to a very alarming extent, and I am, I am sorry to say, dangerously ill, my liver being out of order, and my lungs slightly aflFected ; but I still entertain very sanguine hopes of a recovery. I have been strongly advised by several medical officers and others, to try a trip round the islands. A medical board is to be held on me at Berbice, and I am to proceed in either the Marshal Bennett (transport) or Duke of York, whichever oomes to take up invalids at the different islands for Barbadoes. One or other is to be at Berbice on the 20th of this month, and I suppose, I Bhall have about six weeks voyage round the islands to Barbadoes. When there, unless miraculously better, I intend having another board, and proceeding round the other islands, and going home with the inva- lids in June, or else sailing direct for Quebec. My funds are tolerably strong ; out of your allowance commencing from September, 1829, I have drawn but £25 ; therefore at the end of this month I shall have |l : r'^m^i ' I 1^ i iMlil ^1! 124 about £38 of yours to the good, and I shall have due me about £34 pay, making a total of £70, besides which I have £50, to pay oflF my debts, &o., at this place. Hoping I may yet live to see you, my dear mother, and sisters, believe me, your ever affectionate son, "0. DURNPORD." The following is most likely the last he ever addressed to his father : " Barbadeos, April 10, 1831. " My Dear Father, — I wrote you last month, saying that I was ill, and that I intended paying you a visit. I have commenced operations, and arrived here about ten days ago, on a medical board from Berbice. Colonel Craig, the Adjutant-General, advised me not to' apply for a med- ical board here, for another month, that I may have a milder sea- son for my voyage, and try and recover a little strength. I am under the care of a very clever and kind man, a Dr. Doyle of the staff. He also advises my staying here for a month under medical treatment. He tells me that I shall have no difficulty in getting aboard, and also pass- age allowance, which I did not in the least expect. Compared with Berbice, this place is a perfect paradise, and I am only afraid that I shall recover too rapidly here, in which case, folks may have n. ions of Bending us back again ; and I have fully made up my mind upon one thing, which is, that I will never more set foot in Berbice — sooner than spend anrther year in that villainous hole, I'd be content to stand be- hind a counter all my life, should I live for the next sixty years, I am at present in quarters with the 35th regiment, though of course I am not allowed to dine at their mess, — my meat and drink being limited to fish, rice, arrowroot, and water. The folks here are very civil : I was invited to the Government House immediately I arrived, but was unable to go, as I am not allowed to dine out of my room. Mrs. Craig, who I be- lieve knows my mother, threatens me with a visit, and says that what- ever my wishes may be, her husband will use his interest to forward them. I think I told you in my last, that I had drawn upon you in last October for £25, and the other day, March 25, I drew for £35, so that I have drawn all my allowance up to the end of February. My funds are strong I am happy to say, so that I am in no fear of being baulked in any plan for want of cash, that I think may contribute to my recovery. I have been advised to go to thfe south of France for a few months, and I should like it much, but I cannot give up the idea of vis- iting Quebec, if it is only for a week. The voyage I hope will do me a great deal of good, and the pleasure of seeing my mother, and all at home will do me more. Begging to be remembered to all, believe me, my dear fether, your affectionate son, Charles Durnford." Charles arrived at his father's house in the course of the summer, far advanced in consumption, pronounced beyond human aid. His hand- some countenance, and tall elegant form, together with his mental attain- ments, had developed and improved to a degree that surprised ail who remembered the open-hearted lad, who five years previously had quitted ^ 125 Quebec. He appears to liave joined his regiment first at Fcnnoy and proceeded to Cork on the 65th, being ordered for the West Indies, for which destination he finally embarked at Cove. Passionately fond of all open air sports and exercises, particularly shooting, it was by many of his friends believed that from being too much addicted to them, the fatal malady ho now suffered under, was first brought on. The expres- eion of his fine countenance, naturally dark, but now become pallid, and piercing eyes, soft and fringed with remarkably loug curling eyelasliea, spoke the benevolence of soul he inherited from his father and grand- father. It was truly touching to witness the entire composure and re- eignedness with which he contemplated his approaching end. A few d.iys after his return, one of his sisters entered his room, darkened to keep it oool during the hot weather. The apartment had to her eyes a tropical aspect, as it contained several articles of West Indian fashion and adap- tation, formed from the bamboo and cane. Several large wicker-covered flasks or bottles, in particular, attracted hei attention. To hide the emo- tion the sight of his wasted figure caused her, reclining on a bed, while the dim light rendered his pale face startlingly white, pointing to a corner where one of them stood, she said, " How beautiful their forms are ! " Hfc answered with one of his sweet smiles, **I give them to you." She could not restrain her tears, but his composure was unruffled. He had procured, while at Barbadoes, magnificent specimens of corals, and sea fans, which ho haa caused to be carefully packed in baskets to present to his mother and sisters. In conversation, on most occasions, he spoke of the female sex with contempt and severity, bringing forward two cases where officers had been induced to take as wives with them to the West Indies, young ladies they had inadvertently paid, as the papas thought, too much atten- tion to, while quartered at some country place in Ireland. He declared the gentlemen would have dismissed from memory all recollection of the ladies, had not the angry papas, immediately on hearing the regiment was ordered to another hemisphere, brought down their daughters in postchaises, and oflFering to the false knights the alternative between a duel or a wife, the affair terminated happily. He made no exception in his opinion of the wives of the officers and soldiers of the regiments sta- tioned at Berbice, all of whom he despised and thought meanly of. There was one lady only, the best wife in the corps, and seemingly, as he thought, the sole good wife in the world, who could claim exemption' from the hard fiat pronounced by this severe censor of the sex. It ifl gratifying however, to remember, that the woman he acknowledged to ' ' to have worth was one of the Irish belles. The sweeping estimate he " had formed to the disadvantage of ladies who go to the West Indies, was at that period generally considered as justly deserved. The enervating,; dimate, the great scarcity of female domestics, and social feminine inter- course, fostered slovenly habits of dresa,, and indifference to the com- • fortable neatness the English woman places her delight and pride in. * The young matron, who at home was remarkable for choice and elegance ^ of attire, rapidly degenerated into the slipshod, untidy slattern j and on ' if ,:: ll; ,. \ ' 11 ' ^1' ': '1 >; ! 1' „. i II 126 Buoh, he would pour forth the never-wearied sarcasm and unpitying abuse. They were all alike, he declared ; deterioration of this kind was universal ; nor would he permit indulgence or excuse to be oflfered to woman's weak frame, or inability for exertion in those who hud been accustomed to the indulgences of refinement in a temperate climate, when they found themselves transported, like sickly exotics, to endure the fieiy influence of the tropics, without the friendly aids they once enjoyed. Doubtless had Charles Durnford survived to maturer years, he would have remained an inexorable bachelor. His temper was much affected by the bilious character of his disorder, yet his generous feelings con- tinually came to light. On one occasion, while seated at the dinner table, the mild evening sun of summer illuminating the prospect the windows commanded of the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Uharles, throwing mellow shades and lovely colouring over blue hills, the smiling island of Orleans, the distant Falls of the river Montmorency, and countless charm- ing features in view, too various for minute description here, he was drawn into unwonted cheerfulness. The conversation happened to turn on some poor young lady, an officer's orphan, and lately left entirely des- titute. Charles seemed to enjoy himself to an unusual degree ; and entering freely and with an earnestness of feeling into the subject under discussion, said, with much energy, " How long do you suppose, mama, I have to live? 1 believe about three montb.' — ^, '' ' at my death my widow will be entitled to a pension — and I wi I laaaj nerfrom charitable motives." His mother could only with a melancholy smile reply, " My dear Charles 1" Fortunately the voung lady's case was not again brought forward. With regard to the fine pieces of coral and sea fans, Charles took so much care in collecting, it is remarkable, that although in beauty and perfectuess, they exceeded any exhibited at that time and for years after- wards by the British Museum, they remained in his father's house, after his departure from Canada, conspicuously exposed to observation, with- out attracting notice from any one, until after his parents' death they called forth the admiration they deserved. Charles was accomplished in the management of both farmyard, garden, and dairy. ■til [ ; f This year my father was removed to Portsmouth. "^^^ b ti his new appointment was known, complimentary addresses were ;. re^v a '^d "^o him by the city authoiities, and by the secretary to the garrison 'V .u-y, of which he had been president for several years, expressing regret ..t his approaching departure from Quebec. At a general meeting of the Justices of the peace for the District of Quebec, residing la the City of Quebec, holden on Monday, the 3rd of October, 1831. Resolved, — That on the occasion of the approaching departure from Quebec of Colonel Durnford, of the Royal Engineers, Commandant of this garrison, it be communicated to that Officer on the part of the Magistrates, that deeply regret- ting, as they do, thai his presence should now be withdrawn,— -they entertain the highest sense of hla meritorious conduct during the lonf;. riod tbroughoat I 127 !i ■•: and with- al "o him -u-7, of st ^i, his which his peculiarlj assiduous exertions in fulfilling the arduous duties of his fltation, rendered hia residence in this place so eminently useful. The foregoing resolution having this day been duly communicated by Col. Duchesnay and other gentlemen on behalf of the Magistrates, to Colonel Durn- ford, he returned the following answer : " Gentlemen, — I can scarcely express the sense I entertain of your expressions of regret at my approaching departure from this station, where I have had the pleasure of being employed above fourteen years. " That my conduct and exertions should have come under your observa- tion affords me much gratification ; and I can sincerely assure you I shall ever entertain such testimony as a high honor conferred on, Gentlemen, your most obedient and humble servant, " E. W. DuENPORD, Colonel, " Corps of Royal Engineers." " Quebec, 4th October 1831." Copy by B. S., Mount Pleasant, Quebec, October, 3rd, 1862. While president of this library he was called on to choose a book, and the work he named was considered singular for a military library. It was " The Works of Hannah More." Both my parents regarded the abilities and character of this author with almost religioud admiration ; and from " the Shepherd of Salisbury Plain " to " The Character of St. Paul," considered her writings unequalled in excellence. This partiality took its rise from my mother's having missed being educated by her. Hannah More was one of the teachers redommended to Mrs. Wadman when she sought to place her young ward at a boarding school ; but from some reason, most likely Miss More had resigned her pupils, Mrs. Brett's Seminary, in Poets* Corner, Westminster Abbey, was selected. Having failed to make acquaintance with this admirable woman, was a subject of regret to her through life. On the eve of embarking in the Wanderer transport, he was suddenly seised with an attack of rheumatism, so severe as to render him unable to move. His family, therefore, reluctantly judged it best to proceed by the Wanderer, in which vessel a passage had been provided for them, while he remained at a boarding house, for the arrival of his successor. Colonel NichoUs, from Halifax, and until he should be sufficiently recovered to follow them. He took passage in the Mary, the last ship that left Quebec that fall ; and, aH)er encountering considerable danger from ics, had a fine voyage, and joined his family on Christmas eve. After my mother's departure he was nursed and attended with all possible care and tender- ness by his attached friends, among whom his own officers were most assiduously kind ; and his good and faithful office keeper, who had been a servant in his house, and was with great difficulty persuaded from following him to England, nursed and attended to all his requirements, most faithfully and affectionately. Mr. John Hall was some years after- wards promoted to a situation as tidewaiter, by his son-in-law, Mr. Duns- oomb, and performs the duties of his respectable place with credit, pre- serving his esteem and affection for his good colonel to the last, and trans- ferring to the children the same kind wishes he had entertained for the father. n;.! ;:i| ':! hi i ,|L K^ ■>! Vii 1 ■ 8 III ^B 1 ) 1 ll T '* 1; ;; 1 128 Tho Engineer's Quarter at Portsmouth had lately Been occupied by the general in command, Sir Colin Campbell, and, though situated in an undesirable part of the town (Landport,) had the advantage of excellent gardens, for vegetables, fruit, and flowers. Myrtle and purple fig trees flourished in them ; and one white fig tree, in particular, was considered the finest in the county, — two thousand luscious figs having been gathered from it in the course of one year. Restored to their native land, from whose shore? they had been so long alien, and whi^'h Col. and Mrs. Durnford had so much desired again to Bee, (the first appointed to a station with comparatively easy duty, and ex- cellent society,) in all human probability they were placed there with every thing that was agreeable in anticipation, but for the grief the malady of their beloved son caused them. He bore the homeward voyage well, growing gradually weaker, till he expired gently, January 6. No mur- mur was ever heurd to escape from Charles' lips. His masculine mind maintained itself to the last ; he listened to and entered into the pastoral assistance lent him by the Rev. Mr. Dusatoy, the minister of St. John's Chapel, Portsea, with feeling and devotion, but suffered no female mem- ber of the family to offec him religious advice. A few minutes before breathing his last he called to his brother, "John, go and bring me word how much milk that cow has given." He alluded to a newly purchased one, aware of milking time bemg near. To his father he left £400, the value of his commission, — a large sum, taking into consideration the pay and emoluments of an ensign in a regiment of the line, and spoke well of his moderate and regular habits. His last worldly hours and thoughts were employed in bestowing on each member of his family pretty little gifts or legacies; giving to the sister who had written to him such highly prized letters, a gold watch and chain ; to another, an album, &o. highly 129 SECTION XL Col. By'9 Letters. — Vindication of him. Colonel By's affairs, while in Canada, attracted public attention rather priw to this period, and will now be noticed, so far as the scanty docu- ments that were found among his faithful friend's papers permit. Colonel By's public papers were required to be rendered up, as were Colonel Durnford's, — his office papers, letters, estimates, and reports, though wherefore this arbitrary requisition is put in force when no fur- ther use is contemplated from collections of true and valuable facts, is hard to explain. While the parliamentary enquiry relating to the sum in excess expended over that originally laid down, in the making and completion of the Ot- tawa canal, was being canvassed, my father was summoned to give his opinion and evidence on the necessity for such expenditure ; and in those days, when a telegraphic summons was of rare occurence, he was surprised to receive one, desiring his immediate appearance before the House. A select committee (juestioued him, as he afterwards described, in a rude and most uncourteous manner, though his plain straightforward words seem to have been considered by these gentlemen as deserving of no slight degree of consideration. To explain the original outlay intended to complete the great canal works, the following extract is made : " To defray the charge, in the year 1831, of improving the water com- munication between Montreal and the Ottawa, from the Ottawa to King- ston, and from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, £296,000." It is anticipating, to consider the disappointment and vexation felt by Colonel By to find his work on the Ottawa (to which his best efforts had been devoted), on returning to his country, met by reprehension and exacting rigor, instead of reward or at least approbation, as he had expected. This reception from tLe home authorities made a deep and lasting impression on his mind, from which he never recovered, and was, indeed, supposed to have hastened his death. The few remaining years of his life were spent at his wife's beautiful seat in Sussex ; but even there, while enjoying the society of his two beloved daughters and that of their accomplished mother, the bitter check received in his public career was always uppermost in his thoughts. The two letters following will speak, in his own words, with most truth on the subject : " Shernfold Park, near Tunbridge Welle, " January, 23, 1833. " My Dear Colonel, — "Your kind letter of Dec. 17, only reached m« a few days ago, it having travelled over the country, owing to the direction being insufficient. Esther wrote to Mrs. Dumford on Saturday, and, I believe, mentioned the circumstance, which I trust will account for its re- P? II r 'I ;; i^^'' ^. • I l.'lh 130 mainingso long unanswered. You will be glad to learn, that a few days since I had a very kind letter from our old friend, Lord Dalhousie. He complains of his health and his spirits, and expresses a wish to hear of the Rideau, and to renew our acquaintance ; but as he lives near Edinburgh, I fear it will be some time before I take so long a trip. I have therefore sont him a duplicate of the inclosed papers, relative to the Treasury min- ute, which, from your letter, it appears you have not seen. I have only seen it through the Canada newspapers, and feel extremely ill-used that the said minute was not sent oflBcially to me, that I might have an op- portunity of defending my character; but find that the editors of news- papers have felt the unjust conduct of the government towards me, an(' have taken up my cause, as you will perceive by the enclosed ; which 1 shall foel much obliged by your sending to General Pilkington, with f.uch remarks as will tend to explain the difficulties I liad to contend with. " Tlie present government appears to throw blame on me for not wait- ing for parliamentary grants ; forgetting that it was ordered by his grace the master-general and Board, that I was not to wait for parliamentary grants, but to proceed with all dispatch consistent with economy, and the contracts were formed by the commissary-general at Montreal accordingly : by which the Engineer Department was bound to pay for the works as they progressed, which precluded tlie possibility of stopping the works without laying the government open to pay heavy damages for so doing. This was reported, to the government in 1828, in answer to Mr. Huskin- son's request to delay the works as much as possible ; which was accord- ingly done, but I was never ordered to stop the works until I was so unjustly recalled ; when, thank God ! they were all finished, and the canal had been open to the public for some months, or I should have been robbed of the honour of completing the magnificent work. As for con- trolling the amount of contingencies in water-works on such an extensive scale it is beyond the power of any man ; I therefore hold myself free from all blame, and feel dreadfully ill-used. It should be remembered that this great work has only amounted to £789,940, not double the original estimate for small locks, which amounted to £474,899 Is. 3^d. for toorJcs only ; without civil or military establishments, barracks, hospitals, work- shops, stones or any other contingencies. I send you a copy of my letter of the 18th instant, in answer to some further enquiries of Sir James Kempt, that you may understand what I have stated to them at head quarters. The lawsuits I do not comprehend ; for, though the judge decided that I had the right of doing what I did, yet in the trial relative to the stone taken from Smith's Falls, valued, as I believe, at £1,800, the jury awarded the government to pay £10, which the attorney gene- ral has thought proper to submit to. His report on this subject I have not yet received. The trial about the quantity of land taken by me at Smith's Falls, and approved of by you, amounting to 70 odd acres, which was tried and given in our favor at Brockville in 1831, when you were present, was re-tried last September and given against us, and the jury decided that we had taken one acre more than was necessary on the island formed by the Hornet's side ; this I positively asserted to be indispcn- 3W days e. He ir of the nburgh, lioreforc iry min- ave only scd that B an op- )f news- nic, an<'. which 1 rith f-uch with. lot wait- liis grace inientary , and the )rdingly : ivorks as 10 works 30 doing. Huskin- s accord- I was so the canal ave been 1 for con- extensive 'ree from jred that original or loorJcs lis, work- luy letter ir James 1 at head he judge il relative £1,800, ney gene- jt I have by mc at es, which you were the jury the island indispcn- 131 sably nooossary for the works, and the Attorney-General has therefore re- served that question for the judges. Our trial against Simpson to recover the sums advanced him was put ofiF by Simpson from the York Assizes in March last, to Kingston in August, and from that to Brockvillc in September, when he declared ho had not been able to i rocure his wit- nesses, and the trial was again put off until next year; and, to avoid Pooley and myself being obliged to attend the trial next year, the judge appointed a commission to receive our evidence. I have much to say to you on the subject of a lock at St. Ann's, but I am too unwell to write more at present, and we hope to have the pleasure of seeing you before long at Shernfold, when we can quietly talk over the affairs of Canada. '■ On the 20th of September last, I examined the St. Ann's llapids, and found a very good passage near the mill, close to the old church. The lock at Vaudrcuil being now impassable, it is indispensably necessary to erect one at St. Ann's before the llideau Canal can come into full opera- tion ; and Mr. 11. Drummond, the contractor will undertake to complete it for £7,000. We all unite in kindest regards to yourself and family, Believe mc, my dear Durnford, yours most faithfully, John By. " To Colonel Durnford, 11. E., Portsmouth." " Shernfold Park, near Tunbridgc Wells, "February 26, 1833. '• My Dear Colonel,— Your kind letter of the 18th, which has overwhelmed me with gratitude, I did not receive until I returned home fiom London, having been six days absent to attend the levee, where I met with Sir Peregrine Maitland, who expressed great pleasure at seeing me ; I regret I had not received yours before I went to town, but perhaps whatever is is best, for I would rather be thanked for my exertions through the interference of our own officers than by any court influence j and I feel confident that General Pilkington will lose no time in laying your highly complimentary letter before the master-general. I therefore feel some hope of having the unmerited slur that has been thrown on me by the minute of the lords of His Majesty's Treasury removed, through your kind interfer- ence. My old friend. General Mulcaster, was at the levee ; I told him I wished tobemadeaking'sA.D.C.,forthesakeofthcrank,buthe said that required great interest. Sir Henry Hardinge, whom "I called on the day before the levee, received me with great kindness, and assured mc he would take up the llideau Canal when the Ordnance estimates were brought forward ; he said they were laying on the table of the House, and that, in all probability, in a few days they would be debated on ; he said he thought me extremely ill-used. I have not words to thank you for the high testimonial you have given of me; I only hope that my future conduct through life may be such as to prove me worthy of what you said in my behalf. Pray remember us all most kindly to Mrs. Durnford, your sister, and the whole of your beloved family. I ha"e felt better since I had the pleasure of readmg your letter, but am muc^ plagued with ague and low spirits. My dear Esther and the girls are looking forward with ,i '' It w ,jb: ■ 1 , 1 1 '■ ii ?ii! 132 delight to the promised pleasure of seeing Mrs. Durnford, your sister, and daughters with you at Shemfold. The king appeared to remember me, asked ' how long I had been absent, and if the canal was finished.' God bless you, my dear colonel, and may Heaven reward you for all the good you do. Believe me, over yours faithfully, John By. " To Colonel Durnford, R. E., Portsmouth. " Lord Dalhousie has had another attack." Then follows the letter from Colonel Durnford to General Pilkington, which cemented the friendship that from the first hour of their introduc- tion had existed between the two colonels, into such truthful esteem and affection as never diminished After tlie decease of Colonel By, the amiable and grateful widow still remembered this tribute to lier husband's professional labours. To General Pilkington: "Portsmouth, February 28, 1833. " Dear General, — I hope you will believe that in addressing you respecting the more immediate concerns of a brother officer, Colonel By, who served with me in Canada, but holding, as it were, a description of' command depending so intimately with his own particular judgment to conduct, and for which he had the high honour, in the first instance, to be selected to plan and prosecute, entirely independent of me, as the Com- manding Royal Engineer of both provinces ; that I do not mean to intrude, unnecessarily, on your time, or with any supposition that you are not equally anxious (as I can possibly be) to endeavour to be instru- mental in relieving my friend from the many discomforting circumstances that, in a most zealous discharge of his duty, have been brought on him from various causes; but that I may hope what I say upon the subject, will afford you such insight into the case, as may enable you to take the same into favourable consideration. " The principal source of Lieut.-Col, By's present discomfort arises from the apprehension that, without some certificate or testimony (equally public) is afforded him, that the censure of the Committee of the House of Commons, contained in the report, of which J, N. Fazakerley, Esq., was chairman, that such was not authorized by the House, in consequence of actual misconduct on the part of Colonel By, but really arising from the nature and magnitude of the service he was employed to execute, coupled with the orders he received to prosecute that service with all possible, and more than ordinary energy, and especially from the utter impossibility of controlling the ultimate expense by any common foresight. " Having intimated above that the honor of conducting and planning personally, the works upon the Rideau communication were so immedi- ately entrusted to Lieut.-Col. By, I am at the same time to inform you, that by subsequent instructions of the master-general, it became my duty to receive and transmit all communications relating to this work, give any orders that the Commander of the Forces was pleased to issue, and to afford, in all caSes of emergency, my own personal attendance and the ]1 , ); 1 'I Jg 133 best advioo in my power ; and Lieut.-Col. By thought proper, upon seve- ral oooasions, to call upon me. I mention this more especially to explain, that in consequence I became intimately acquainted with most of the untoward and almost insurmountable occurrences that Lieut.-Col. By had to contend against, and I should do him infinile injustice if I did not declare to you, that from my observation of his active and zealous exertions, he deserved any thing rather than the shadow of censure. " The expenditure has certainly far exceeded the estimate, particularly the original one ; but I must state at the same time, were it possible for any of his majesty's ministers or members of the House of Parliament, to have seen the country, lakes, and swamps, &c., &c., through which this water communication has been carried agreeably to the orders given to Lieut.-Col. By, and could now see the stupendous chain of works that have been constructed, that the outlay of money would not be wondered at, or given unwillingly, as a record of British ability and muniBcence. " Certainly in the present state of both the Rideau and Grenville canals, as now cut off from the lower parts of the Lower Province, below the Lake of the Two ]\[ountains, for want of connecting communication be- tween that lake and Montreal, Quebec, and the CJulf of St. Lawrence, neither in military or commercial points of view can government or the community at large reap the expected benefit from either of them ; and it is very much to be feared that u state of inactivity may militate against the preservation of these noble Avorks. I also very much fear, from the known apathy of Canadians, that the government will probably be dis- appointed in their seeming reliance on the legislatures of these provinces stepping forward to complete the navigation in any way, especially upon the scale that the far greater part has already been executed. " I am greatly concerned that the testimony I was called upon to afford, when examined before the Committee of the House (as above alluded to), that the tendency of that examination did not afford opportunity for ex- plaining the total impossibility of the expense being prevented ; that is, by stopping the execution of any of the works during the progress ; they all having been commenced as simultaneously as possible, in order to in- sure corresponding couipletion, consequently at any stage of the business suspension, setting aside the hold for compensation that each contractor would have had upon government, and which I am firmly persuaded, would not have been much short of the excess upon the estimate made by Lieut.-Col. By, and also there is no doubt but that most of the work would thus have been nearly destroyed ; such is the astonishing effect of the floods in those waters, with which you are so well acquainted. " Permit me to bring to your notice the order, signed Bathurst, (the date I do not recollect) wherein the works are to proceed without await- ing the grant from parliament ; and again (by a subsequent communica- tion) that Lieut.-Col. By was most fully authorized to proceed on the work, and, iri fact, defied to complete it within the time he had expected to be practicable, and even that money should be granted in a fourth instead of a fifth proportion ; and here I must also beg to call your atten- tion to the assurance that— in the best of my judgment — had not Lieut.- m\ '■ t ; 1 '*«: Hi 1 ! r ■ ! II 1 /, f i 1 li ' il fl i I 134 Col. Uv boon »hackleJ by actual susponHion for some weeks or iiionthH militating uguinnt his e8tiuiatc8,an(l with other inexplicable anil unforeseen embarrassnicnts, as lawsuits and other matters of extremely distracting litigation, conse purposes, be added to the estimate of this year, the two fmms will then be,— for the estiniato of 1R31, £7(12,008, and f(.r (hat of this year £803,774 5 6 ; beinpj an exeessin the estimate of this year, as compared with that of the last, of £41,076 5 6. " It is, however, to be observed, that lost year, with respect to the sum of £60,230 it was stated, that with the exception of £8,230 for bridges, it would not bo necessary to apply that sunx immediately ; how far the postponement then recommended has been attended to, the committee, from the manner in which the accounts are made up, have been unable to determine. " The present accounts therefore, show an expenditure of £82,740 15 6 beyond the votes of Parliament, and an estimate of £111,181 5 beyond the same votes for the completion of the canal, and for expenses and works stated to be in necessary connexion with it. Of this sum, what portion may have been already spent, or even wlint part of it may be involved in existinj^ contracts, the committee have no means of ascertain- ing with accuracy ; they presume, however, that under the arrangements which still subsist, the public must be ultimately liable for the payment of the whole: this of course, supposes that the contracts shall have been faithfully fwrfornied. Whenever the canal sliall be finished, the com- mittee think that it would bo most desirable to close the accounts with the least possible delay. " An estimate, dated June 21, 1832, has been prepared by the officer of Ordnance for the annual maintenance and repair of the canal, and for the management of the locks. This amounts to £18,700 1 ♦> for the present year, and the connnittce presume that a sum must be proposed for this service on account : as, however, this threatens to be an annual expense, tliey recommend that immediate steps should be taken to place this charge on a regular'and economical footing ; and they agree with the Treasury and Colonial Office in thinking that the provinces of Canada, to whom tlie whole of these works must be most valuable, may be rea- sonably expected to bear this expense. Those provinces, they hope, will not be indisposed, for such an object, to come to the assistance of the mother country, by whom so large an expenditure has hitherto been ex- clusively incurred. Tt appears to be still quite uncertain, and it must be so until the water communication from Montreal to Kingston shall be completed, how far any tolls to be collected on the different canals may or may not be sufficient to keep them in repair, and to support the necessary establishment. " With respect to the three canals on the Ottawa, the committee observe, that in 1831 the estimate for these works, including £54,245 for the enlargement of the Grenville canal, amounted to £285,3(57. The votes of Parliament amount to £200.000, having by the estimate of 1831 a sum of £70,208 still to be provided for. By a memorandum from the office of Ordnance, dated June 10, 1832, it appears, that up to the 31st December, 1831, there had been expended upon the Grenville Canal, £137,244; on the Carillon Rapids, £23.721 ; and on the Chute-a-Blon- deau, £9,872 ; making a sum total of £170.837— being £1 14,530 withia fe,;.« I > 111! 130 the estimate of 1831, and £38,202 within the votcH of Parliament. It i« now Btutod in the memorandum from the office of Ordnance before referred to, that £18,411 will be nuffioient to complete thcBO canals, cxclusivclv of £54,246 for tlie enlargement of a part of the Grenville canal. Iherc is also an estimate from the Ordnance office of £23,701 for the expense of the suporintendonce and cHtablishnicnt connected with the canals on the Ottawa. " The committee think it due to the office of Ordnance, under whose directions the works on the Ottawa have been placed exclusively, to call the attention of the house to the care and economy with which they appear to have been recently conducted, the expenditure of the your having been far within the annual vote, and various savings appearing in the present estimates; they therefore do not hcifiiato to recommend the completion of these works, with the exception of the enlargement of the Orenvillc canal, to which they will presently advert. The estimate for this purpose hns been already stated IIS £18,411, which with the money expended up to the December 31, 1831, makes a total of £189,248, being a saving on the cstiniate of 1831 of £06,110; or, if we exclude from the estimate of 1831, £54,245, for the Grenville canal, a saving of £41,822. "It results from this .statement, that the votes for the whole of this water communication amount to £901,705, and tliat the present estimates, including the money already spent, amount to £993,022 5 for the com- pletion of the Rideau canal, and the canals o 'he Ottawa, on the scale now existing: this calculation excludes thr ,245 at different times proposed for the enlargement of the Grenvi.. .^nal, and the expense of Buperintendeiiec and establishment on the Ottawa. " From the evidence of Colonel Durnford, and from past experience, the committee fear that the present estimates will be found insufficient for the Rideau canal. They arc therefore of opinion, that it would be imprudent not to calculate on some excess, though they have no moans of estimating its amount ; and they doubt whether the expectation hold out by Colonel By of opening the canal on the May 1, 1832, has been realized. '■ "With regarJ to the cnlnrgcineiit of the Grenville canal, and the con- templated works, either at St. Ann's and La Chine, or in the rear of the Island of Montreal, the committee do not think that any immediate decision need be taken. The Grenville canal, if it remain at its present size, will not absolutely interrupt the commimication ; and in the mean time .«;ome experience will have been obtained of the sufficiency and dura- bility of the works already completed. The same observations apply to the proposed works on the island of -dontreal, with this additional rea- son for suspending the decision of Parliament, that the estimates appear, from Colonel Durn ford's evidence, to have been altogether framed by Colonel By, and the couimittee, after what has passed with regard to the Rideau canal, do not think that it would be prudent to rely on their accuracy. They observe, that in miscellaneous estimates on the table of the house, it is proposed to ask for a vote of £02,500 for the water com- l:J7 munioution in Canada, and thoy cannot adviau the prupusiil of ii larger sum, until uioro full and accurate uxnlanation of tlu> «>xiH!ndituro on the Ridoau uhall have buon obtained. Tliey reooniiuond that the money nhall bo employed in satisfying contracts wherever they have been faithfully performed ; and that, in the premuit .state ofMnformation and experience on the subject, no fortifications should be undertaken on the Uideau, nor any further works proceeded with, either on the Ottawa or the Island of Montreal. " Having now called the attention of the hou.se to various details of expense, the conmiitteo arc anxious to describe shortly the extent of the works in <|uestion. The distance from Kingston, on Lake Ontario, to Bytown, where the Kideau river joins the Ottawa, is stated te bo 150 miles; from Bytown to the Grenville canal, (!4 miles; making together 2l.'3 miles: througliout tin; whole of which line the locks and cuttings are of a size to admit 8t*)amboat« IIU feet long, iilJ feet wide, and drawing 5 feet water. " From the Grenville canal to Montreal is (54 miles; all the locks on the Carillon and on the Chute-d-Blondeau are of the same .size as on the Ridoau; but on a part of the Grenville canal, commenced before the larger scale was adopted, .some locks and a part of the cuttings will only admit boats of 20 feet ; and the imperfect work at St. Ann's, described by Colonel Durnford, will not allow tho passage of larger boats. Until, therefore, the locks on tli' (irenvillc cunul, and the works on tlie Island of Montreal, shall be muM.! on the same scale as those on the Kideau, the navigation for boats above 20 feet wide will be interrupted where the smaller locks begin ; and if larger boats are used on the Kideau, and on the higher part of the Ottawa, all goods must be un.shippcd on arriving at tho Grenville canal, and be either conveyed by portage, or removed to smaller boats. The estimate for enlarging the Grenville canal being £54,245, and that for making a communication between the Islands of Montreal and Jesus being stated to be £117,270, the whole expense of completing this part of the water communication would be £171,515, if it were probable that the estimates wore accurate. Colonel Durnford states, that though the expen.se of making a canal at St. Ann's might be from £23,000 to £4G,000, according to the particular line which was determined upon, yet, that as in that case Lachine Canal must also be enlarged, the pa.ssage that way would be nearly, if not (juitc, as expen- sive, and in all other respects much less eligible than by the rear of the Island of Montreal. If at any future time the further prosecution of these works should be thought desirable, the House will have to deter- mine in what way the expense should be provided for ; but the commit- tee cannot recommend that any money should now be voted for that pur- pose. " The Committee cannot conclude their report without a strong expres- sion of their regret, that the irregularity, hitherto so much complained of in the conduct of the works on the Kideau, should have prevailed to a great extent in the course of the last year. The expenditure lias much exceeded both the estimates and the votes of Parliament, and a conside- !i-: Y \\ !Kil 13S rable delay, not very properly explained, seems to have taken place in making this excess known to the Treasury. The committee are the more surprised that this should have occurred, as the Treasury minutes of the June 10 and July 8, 1831, called the attention of the several departments of Government to the subject, and gave positive directions, which appear calculated to remedy the inconveniences complained of. By a Treasury minute ot" May 11, 1832, some restraint is im- posed on the application of money by the commanding-general of Canada. The committee have observed this with pleasure, being of opinion, that in works of this description there is no security against extravagance, and the amount of expense can never be accurately known, unless the annual expenditure be confined within the limits of the annual votes. In those cases of rare occurrence, in which a deviation from this prin- ciple may be unavoidable, the comiiiittee believe that the directions con- tained in the Treasvy minutes, above referred to, would secure the piiblic service from interruption and inconvenience ; they trust, therefore, that the Treasury will not allow the orders contained in these minutes to be neglected by any department, and that they will take care that they are carried into strict and immediate execution ; and, in conclusion, with a view to place works of this description under the undivided responsibi- lity of one department, they suggest the expediency of inserting the votes for money in the Ordnance estimates, and not in the miscellaneous estimates. M '< June 29, 1832." J. N. Fazakerley, Chairman. 'sjitit! 139 SECTION XII. Family corresponutnce. — Don Carlos. — Viney's letters and illness. — Sarah's death— (to p. 126.) Those only who have been separated from tlieir brothers and sisters in early youth, when family affection is most fresh in its warm impulses, can imagine the pleasure experienced when they again meet with so much to tell, so much to wonder at and approve in the mutual develop- ment of person, manners, ideas, and intellect. At this period my father's whole family were occasionally assembled around him. His eldest and youngest sons, Elias and Viney, were in his own corps : Philip and George had commissions in the 68th and 70th Regiments; while his remaining son John, who had failed to obtain advancement in the com- missariat, but afterwards was more successful in the war department, was an inmate (unemployed) of his fiither's house. A blight had by the loss of Charles been thrown over their enjoyments, but the elastic vigour of youth and hope recovered from the shock of the first trial caused by the separation of death. The depots of the 68th and 70th being at Portsmouth, and the two young officers in those regiments being allowed to remain there for some as also to find that the two them. Viney, the youngest son, had always been remarkable, as a boy, for his fondness for reading ; and, to enable him to carry on his studies without disturbance, he now made choice of an out door apartment looking out on the poultry time, afforded the family much delight, engmeer officers were likewise to be stationed near yard and garden wall, while his books were arranged in a room within the house. His studies were multifarious ; he read in English, French, Italian, German, Spanish, and Portuguese, besides Latin and Greek authors, latterly entering upon the study of Hebrew. He possessed works of the best authors in all these languages ; — in German especially, at that date little read and by no means well taught, his attainment was such, that his master could with difficulty be persuaded but that his knowledge of it had been acquired in a country where it was vernacular. He had also made considerable advancement in the mathematics, and nearly all his spare pay was devoted to increasing his valuable stock of books. Young as he was, he directed the studies of his sisters ; read Italian witli them, — a language he had been taught at Malta, — bought books for them, and was always delighted when they visited his library or read his volumes : indeed his sisters looked up to him, superiorly gifted as he was, with love and admiration such as he deserved. Viney was modest and humble in his opinion of himself, and so devoid of vanity that, althougli scrupulously elegant in the choice of' ' -^ttire and personal appliances, he dreaded the epithet of dandy bei. affixed to him, and told his sister that whenever he first put on a new suit, to destroy the idea of his aiming to be a beau, he would put on a pair of soiled gloves, a patched boot, or a hat that liad seen better days. No reasoning ever (3 ■ 1 1 1 ^1 11 P 1 I ' S^B 11 \ 'A <: !' '1 11 -f- 140 |i !''. li :i Mi induced his ceding to the remonstrances of his sisters on these points ; he consistently maintained his manly supremacy, with noble amiability loving them the better for what he thought their weakness. He made them many pretty presents— all his wishes tended to their benefit : when he told them their faults, it was with the manner and temper of an angel. l*erhaps, and as he thought himself, his profession was ill chosen ; certain it is he looked down on his professional duties, and would have liked to devote himself to a life of college study and seclusion, for he was shy of the society of strangers, and hurt the feelings and opinions of his parents and family by his over love for retirement. Familiar epistles are truthful of domestic life and individual character ; the subjoined were addressed to Canada; in their boyish simplicity, they speak more of Vincy than any recollection can. Woolwich, March 29, 1826. " Dear J — , As Captain Douglas (commandiM- of n favourite general cargo trading ship, the Ottawa,) sails on Saturday, 1 have just sat down to write to you. I am come herefrom Epping, and am going to school again to-morrow. Aunt Kirwan received me very kindly, as did all the family : while I was there I went to the stag-hunt on Easter Monday ; you see the account of in the newspaper, so I need not give you the history of it — at all events I can't say much for it as a hunt, but there were a great number of people there, among whom were, Mr. Goodman a friend of Mrs. Kirwan, my cousin George and myself, who walked six miles to see nothing, unless you call a parcel of people scampering about on foot and on horseback anything. Mrs. K. told me to tell you that she sent you a letter about a month ago. John is still in France. I hope you have I'eceived my letter of the 28th of last month. My uncle has got the music for Elizabeth, and is going to town to-morrow for the other things. Tell aunt that he has bought a pocket book for me, for which I am very jnuch obliged to her. I send Charles a knife, and Charles Smith the same, which Charles can give him. Mr. Day has asked me to spend the mid-summer holidays with himself — if I don't go there : Mrs. Kirwan has asked me. I hope you are all quite well. Give my love to papa, mama, aunt, brothers, and sisters, and believe me, dear J , your affectionate brother, " ViNEY DURNFORD." "11. M. A., November 4, 1827. "Mr DiSAR J — , I received your letter of the August 20, about a fort- night ago : — I have not been able to answer it before, because the mail does not go till the 7th. Of course you have heard of Charles' arrival, and I dare say he has told you that he has not seen me yet. I had a letter from him last week. He seemed very contented, and said his time was passed very pleasantly, which I am sure he cannot help doing with such an uncle. He says a young man attends him three times a week, whom he denominates his tutor. '' I wrote to aunt Kirwan a short time ago, in answer to a letter she sent me : she has not yet given me an invitation to spend the vacation with her, but I expect it every day. i 141 "■^1 e points ; miability ict made it: when ler of an 1 chosen ; )uld have jf he was ms of his iharacter ; implicity, general it down to lool again all the Monday ; you the but there Goodman talked six ing about 1 you that 1 France, nth. My to-morrow t book for es a knife, Mr. Day -if I don't :|uite well. )elieve me, JFORD." i, 1827. >out a fort- 3 mail does rrival, and lad a letter s time was ith such an :, whom he a letter she he vacation "As to my drawings, you may believe me, that there is not one worth seeing, much more sending so far. " We had a grand day here a short time ago : the duke of Clarence came down to present the marines with new colours, the cadet company was turned out under arras, and marched down to the riding-school, as the rain came down in torrents. It was a long time before we could get in ; and, as you may conceive, we got a fine ducking, particularly as we wore white trousers for the occasion. There was a platform in the middle of the school, on which stood the duchess of Clarence, Glouce- ster, and the princess Augusta ; around it were the marquis of Anglesey, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, and several other noblemen. As the cadets take precedence of any other troops, we wore very near the platform. As soon as we got in, General Fisher, our commandant, gave the word, and we presented arms ; and in about five minutes after, the Duke of Clarence began a long speech reflecting on the s«rvices of the marines in different parts of the globe; and as soon as he had finished this, he explained the different devices on the colours, and then presented them to the senior lieutenant. " Two or three cadets have just been admiring your hand, which they saw on the direction of one of your letters I was referring to. " I must say I envy your picnics. I have been to Lake Duchesnay ; I believe it is the same as the one you call Lake Beauport. I have •never been near the other lakes and falls you mention. We have just had an examination in our academy, and several of the first cadets have been examined for commissions, and have gone down into the arsenal : there is to be another in December, when nine more will go down. *' The Duke of Wellington is very unpopular with us for having stopt the intended promotion in the artillery, particularly as it had been in the papers and we were almi -f sure of it. Our hours have just been changed, and now the morninj.:, parade i.s ut 8 o'clock instead of 7 : it will continue so I believ dl the winter. " We are looking out lui the frost, which has not yet mndr^ its appear- ance even in the shape of hrir frost. There arca^i' at many larce ponds on the common, and, as 1 !- pe, there will be some good skating, which is a good deal better here than \v Canada, tlierc being no snow to spoil it. And now my dear I must conclude : give my love to papa and mama, and all the other relations, and believe m- your af (innute brother, ' VlNEY DURNPORD.'' " Cadet Barracks, December 1, 1829. " My Dear J — , T have to thank you for your short account of your travels, as also I believe for divers unanswered epistl . of yours, which I am ashamed to particularize ; but I believe al i that it is about the best thing I could do, viz., to write as little as iiossible, if I cannot pro- duce something more worth reading than those unintelligible, ill-written productions, to which the name of Viney Durnford is affixed. '* My fortnight's leave will I believe be spent with my aunt Kirwan, as she has invited me. I have also been invited by the Durnfords at Chatham. mf. ^\ ii: H IJ. r' --'"■ M n Bft Ei I ', 142 *' I have bjon to see the R 's several times since 's departure, and am going to-morrow to see Dr. Parker, who with his wife is now at Woolwich. '• You no doubt arc not sorry for the change that is to take place in your residence —by the by you will I suppose be quartered somewhere near my uncle George and family. " Charlotte I hoar is grown quite out of roiuembrance : my best love to her and to Caroline and Sarah — they must excuse my not writing to tliem this time, but I promise them one in my next packet. I suppose John will come with you : I hope he likes his new studies. Believe me, my dear J , your aflfectionate brother, " ViNEY DURNFORD." The next, from a friend of Viney's, is rife with the ingenuous feelings of I'riondship and confidence, besides other interesting matter. The author wa8 unknown to the family, save by his signature. " Rajeunal on the (Jangcs, Aug. 4, 1832. '• 31y Dear Durnford, — Since I separated from you last Christmas, I have traversed more than half the circumference of the earth, and arrived in India, the country where I must pass the prime of my ex- istence, and labour for bread, and for what fame may be acquired in peaceful times, or against the enervated inhabitants of a hot climate. I address you at random, as you may be in Africa or America, or per- haps in the classic land of Greece, where I cannot but envy you the pride of spirit — of searching among the ruins of all that was great and all that was noble in former times. '• ^ly voyage out was not very short, but as every thing was perfectly ncAV, the time did not hang so heavy as is usually considered. We had no bad weather except in the " Bay of Biscay," that disagreeable ordeal of all people fresh from land. The days flowed smoothly along, occa- ."^ionally interspersed with the view of islands, or the capture of birds and of fishes, or the sight of a returning ship, enabling the care-sick and the home-sick to vent their feelings on a sheet of paper. We landed upon the island of Johanna, petite and beautiful like other tropical islands, but labouring under the double despotism of the religion of Mahomet and the most inordinate desire of money. We sailed round Ceylon,- where perhaps you may one day be, — and were much amused by the l i utesque appearance of its hills ; one of these precisely resembling, we named after " Westminster Abbey." We saw Madras, a noble monument of British honour and wealth, and only surpassed by Calcutta, situated on the holiest branch of the holy Ganges. When I arrived, and found myself after three years study, the tenth supernume- rary in the Corps of Engineers, with my pay dipt and cut and drawn through the slender wire holes of modern currency, and the ideas of Lord William Bentinck, who has pinched the Court of Directors, displeased, and impoverished the offic s of 300,000 armed men: a dangerous policy. I am now proceeding up the Ganges to join the sappers and miners at Delhi, in charge of 'hose educated at Chatham. And we shortly 143 expect to be called to the field, to form a camp of 40,000 men, for the purposes of instruction, but really to observe die conduct of Runjit Singh, a very powerful rajah in the western provinces with a large array, and the keep of India in his hand, wliich he can open to the ambition of the emperor of Russia. I hope such a thing may happen, for we will drive them back to their desert, and perhaps you and I may meet under the walls of Moscow, and promote the interest of England jointly with the votaries of Christ and of Mahomet, — a strange difference to throwing up field-works, or drawing plans on the marshes of the Medway. " I hope you have been in good health since I saw you, and that you have been stationed at a place that you will like, for you did not seem anxious to rocjucst the board for the favour of a good appointment. Of course I shall have cut, unless it is to be employed in the field, the true post for a young officer. Have you seen Moody lately? and how long has he left Chatbam ? How do your studies in chemistry and geology and history proceed ? Has your perusal of the Fathers cleared your miuJ, or involved you in endless confusion ? I have given up all such things, and confine my reading to the mathematics, — to history — and to poetry. There is at present very good play for all the sciences in India. The Trig. Survey far exceeds that of England, Ireland, or France. I shall be most happy to hear from you at all times — the oftencr, the gladder I shall be. I hope your friends are well. I remain, my dear Durnford, yours most sincerely. '• To Lieut. Viney Durnford, 11. E. J. W. Cunninoham." The two next letters in order of time are from Mrs, Kirwan's eldest son, who always met the same cordial welcome at his aunt's house, as did his cousins in Mrs. Kirwan's, whose sheltering mansion never failed at vaca- tion time to open for the reception of her nephews, while the Atlantic separated them from their parents ; and the mutual regard of both fami- lies for each other resembled that of brothers and sisters. 1 Manchester St., Manchester Square, October 12, 1823. '• jMy Dear Cousin, — Allow mc to express the pleasure I feel from the reception of those lines, the purport of which you thought me not unworthy of fulfilling ; and since you have thus commenced an epistolary correspondence, let mo hope that this is but the forerunner of future favors. You little know me, if you think your directions could ever, from my hand, find their way into the fire. " You doubt whether your request might appear to me as an extraor- dinary piece of assurance, rather say as an extraordinary piece of favour : for, to tell you the truth, my opinion is always in favour of candour and sincerity ; thus taking you as my model, let me hope I shall pr jve my- self a docile and willing pupil. " Now to business with regard to the chess-board. I have visited Ackerman's, and have inspected, very minutely, boards of different shapes and sizes : I shall in the first place answer those points you wish to know. Tl m k ^^^1 i^^HB ti n i HH I) .« 144 I >\ inlfi '■ f il' The shape of the board must be a square: the sizes are from sixteen to twenty-one inches — understand, when T say the board must be square, I mean within the pattern, the rim or edge of the board may be, and are of various shapes — such as waved edr>es. The prices I fear you will think exorbitant. The boards consist of white wood, veneered on mahogany. Those ready for inlaying are from twenty-four to thirty shillings with patterns, and those without are from four to six less. As to the expense of sending down to you, I should think the utmost they could charge would be from eighteen pence to two shillings at the outside. You wish to know whether it is possible to build the same at Portsmouth, the di- mensions being rightly understood ? " T should say decidedly yes, for I see no reason why you could not begin another, with those dimensions before you, as well as if it caiiie from as renommi a place as Ackerman's. I have answered your letter item by item : hope therefore it will enable you to complete one at last ; but be sure and get a good seasoned piece of wood, or otherwise it will serve as did the last. I was on the eve of my departure for the country when your letter arrived or would have attended to it ere now ; on my way home I came through Woolwich and saw the Petleys, they jskcdrne to dine with them, but I wished to return to town as early as I could, so politely declined the offer. They Jisked after you all. Mrs. Petley, I was told by a person constantly in the habit of visiting her, is in a very tottering state, and is supposed not long for this world. " My mother is just leaving Orpington to reside at Canterbury, I sus- pect only for a short time. My brother was in town a short time ago, he is at present residing at Maiden Bradley in Dorsetshire, without any earthly occupation. The fogs begin to make their appearance in London. Town ..as been very empty for the last two months, but now the streets begin to assume a more cheerful appearance. I hope all chez vous are well, faites mes souvenirs il tous, s'il vous plait. Will you ask my aunt if she will be kind enough to return Dr. Milner's work as soon as conve- nient. If agreeable to her, I will send her another work of later period. I hope you will always favour me with a line whenever you may chance have any commissions to execute, as will prove to me that I am not for- gotten by all. Believe me, my dear cousin, yours truly, " J. F. KiRWAN." {From the same to the same.) " 13 Duke St., Manchester Square, Nov. 8, 1835. "My Dear Cousin, — I arrived here a few days ago,after taking Brigh- ton on my way to London from Southampton. I sojourned ten days at Brighton, and which flew by as if it were but two, being chiefly occupied in waiting on your sex, almost as charming as yourself. A propos, during our country rides I had frequent opportunities of observing that the Portsmouth fashion for ladies to ride with unbound hats appears not to have extended to London or Brighton. So much for that: now as to the different items 146 mI P ;' :i ! 1. ' ■! yoii wrote in my memorandum book, I shall attend to in rotation. I am told at Ackerman's, that twenty-four inches square is tlie largest size ; thickness from three quarters to an inch. They are generally made of white wood, or, in other words, of holly wood. Price from 25s. to 30s. I send you the magazine and bottle of gall water. With regard to Indian ink running, they say nothing will prevent it if the paper is bad. I also enquired at a firstrate upholsterer's the damage of a handsome stand or a frame for a chess-board, made ^sually of rosewood ; nothing handsome under £5, as much more as you like. This appears to be the last com- mission, at least for the present, I will add, until you learn to treat me like some friends of ours, when they get impatient and are not attended to by return of post, and beg to have their letters sent back. I am not at all apprehensive that this will be your case, knowing so well, my dear cousin, your amiable qualities. I trust I need not add, I shall at all times feel flattered in attending to your commands. I am sorry to find I am just returned time enough to witness the commencement of the London fogs, which usually visit the capital at this season of the year. How is my dear aunt ? I sincerely hope she impro\;(;8 daily, and will ere long recover her strength. Pray say every tiling kind and afiectionate from me. I am sorry to say there is so little stirring in town that you must not expect any thing in the shape of news. My friend Selby is to be married on Tuesday the 12th inst. first by one of our bishops and then at his parish church ; after which, I am told there will be an assembly of friends to a dejeuner a la fourchette, to the number of sixty. The s^^je, I hope, ere long, to be my case. I fear all absentees will come poorly off for cake. Since my return to town I am told by some friends that I was seen by them riding with a lady near Portsmouth, on the London road, and how fortunate the rencontre did not take place coming down Postdown Hill ! (The lady this letter was written to, in galloping down Postdown Hill in company with Mr. Kirwan, had been thrown from her horse.) Be kind enough to tell Caroline I hope she will not forget her promise to her dear cousin John, conveying all the Portsmouth news, from time to time. Pray excuse this neat scrawl, as I am, as usual when writing, in a hurry. A good apology for a pack of nonsense — n'est ce pas. My kind regards also to cousin J, and shall feel it a compliment if she will occasionally favor me with her handwriting, reporting progress of her invalids, which I trust will be realized. Accept my best wishes for your family circle, and believe me to remain. " Your affectionate cousin, John Kirwan." Arrivals stirring and gay — if royal — doubly welcome, constantly occur at Portsmouth. The Duchess of Kent and the young princess, her child of fully realized, happy hope, paid England's proud seaport several visits at this period, and the exiled Don Carlos of Spain with his queen ; also Donna Maria the young Queen of Portugal, and her mother-in-law, the Empress of Brazil and Duchess of Braganza. My father happened K iji. ' -1^1 fl • II '1 MJ 146 occasionally, in consequence of the frequent absence of the general com- manding, to be in charge of the garrison ; and the disposition of the troops for the reception of distinguished guests thus devolved necessarily on him. For Donna Maria's reception, on her second visit, the appearance the Boldieramade in lining the streets, &o., was so well managed, as to receive complimentary thanks from the Rear Admiral, Sir Thomas Williams. Donna Maria offered to confer on him the decoration of the Cross of the Legion of Honour of Portugal ; he was advised to decline it. When the Princess Victoria visited and went over " the Royal Clarence Victualing Establishment," near Gosport, and was shewn the newly ap- proved process of biscuit making for the navy, my father had the honour of taking her round it, leaning on his arm, and an amiable young lady present, afterwards observed to one of his daughters, that Colonel Durn- ford took the princess in his kind manner. lie was also honoured with invitations to the Duchess of Kent's table, while residing at Cowes in the Isle of Wight ; after retiring to the drawing room, the princess would sing to the company. My father now enjoyed meeting with many old friends of his boyhood and youth, as well as many who remembered and had been his father's : indeed the toilsome life he had led in Canada was much lightened by the change of station. The fearful disease — cholera — made its appearance in the sappers' barracks, only separated from his own residence by the street. Several soldiers' children died, and alarm, with its consequent dejection followed. The company, at his recommendation, was immediately removed to Southsea Castle, where the salubrious sea air at once established health and confidence. It would no doubt have been better to have refrained from entering into the violent canvassing parties, that, during election times disturbed Portsmouth, ; papa was a decided conservative or toiy, and once, indeed only once, in making his way to the hustings, to give his vote accordingly, was nearly killed. It was doubtless owing to this ill-judged act, that on an occasion of an address of thanks being made by the corporation for the restoring or new building of the Lion Gate, one of the gates of the fortified town of Portsmouth, the name of his second in command was substituted for that of the commanding Royal Engineer. Besides a periodical attendance on the king, at Brighton, his tour of in- spection comprised Winchester, New Forest, Southampton, Isle of Wight, the coast as far as Brighton, taking in a great extent of beautiful country, replete with interest and importance. The curious old castles of Calshot and Hurst were included. At break of day, one morning, the Donegal frigate was discovered lying at Spithead. A boat was immediately despatched to know the reason why the usual salute had not been fired. The answer returned was "because there was a royal party on board." (From the Gazette): " June 18, 1834. At 6 A. M. this morning, the Admiral Superinten- dent's yacht was dispatched to the Donegal for the pmrpose of conveying on shore Don Carlos's family and suite. At a quarter before seven •'clock, the Donegal was seen to ' man yards,' and a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired from that ship upon the party embarking on UT liilii board the vacht ; Capt. Fanshaw nooompanied the illustrious strangers, who, upon landing at Sally-port stairs, were received with a second salute, of twenty-one guns from the platform battery. A captain's guard of honour was drawn up in the street, and the marine band, as the prince and princess entered the post carriage which conveyed them to their apart- ments in High Street, struck up * God save the King.' Nothwithstanding the early hour, the platform was covered with well-dressed people anxious to gaze on exiJed royalty." Sir Frederic Maitland, the Superintendent, Lord Adolphus Fitz- clarence, &c., paid their respects at 12 o'clock. Don Carlos, on leaving the Donegal, expressed himself in terms of heartfelt gratitude for the kind and generous reception he experienced from the captain and every officer on board. He addressed them on the quarter deck as follows in French : — " Messieurs : Avant do vous quitter, mon coour sent le besoin de vous t^moigner ma reconnaissance pour la manidre aimable avec laquel'e vous tous nous avez traitd. Moi, et to«te ma famille, n'oublierons jamais les services rendus avec tant de franchise etde generosity, qui atoujours dis- tingud la marine de la Grande Bretagne. " De prtNs, comme de loin, je me rapellerai toujours de votre excellent eapitaine et des officiers appartenans ii ce beau vaisseau, et pour que j'aie toujours en mdmoire leur noms, je vous prie, M. le Capitaine, de vouloir bien me donner la liste de ces braves officiers." His consort, who had been deemed remarkably handsome, landed with a frame shattered from fatigue and ill health, having suffered many hard- ships and privations in the flight ; on one emergency she was forced to walk twenty miles on foot. At this time those who saw her recognized little of her former beauty, but described her as a tall, gaunt woman. The young princes, boys of ten and twelve years of age, were constantly seen walking about Portsmouth, accompanied by their tutor, and with their mother were left by Don Carlos near Gosport, as in secure deposit. The exiled queen, after languishing a few months, expired at Stoke, in the apartment in which her remains lay in state for some days ; the bed watched by her body guards, was visited by crowds. My father, with his family crossed the harbour to see it. While Don Carlos, his queen and two sons were thus allowed the shelter of hospitality at Portsmouth, volunteers from the same place were collecting in great numbers to join Colonel Napier's band against him. About 1833, Louis Philippe's sailor son, the Prince de Joinville, came to Spithead, and while his ship lay there at anchor, he sent invitations to all the chief authorities of Portsmouth to breakfast with him. Papa re- ceived one : " Monsieur le Colonel du Gdnie, &c., &c., Durnford, Portsmouth. " S. A. R. Monsieur le Prince de Joinville, me charge d'avoir I'hon- neur d'inviter M. le Colonel du Gdnie k dejeuner demain, lundi, k bord de la frigate la Didon, ce lime ftvrier. " d, bord de la Didon^ Porttmouth, 13, 7. ■■in m m ' ' ■£ t ^HK ft |i 1^' 1 ^^K ^ It li ' 1 il W' 148 For some reason his politeness was not accepted by the oflHoials at Portsmouth. Papa went in person on board the prince's vessel to oflFcr apology for declining; the prince received him standing, with much courtesy, telling him ho regretted the shortness of his visit. It was now God's will that clouds should for some time settle over Colonel Durnford's hitherto happy family. The death of poor Charles proved but the prelude to other keen trials. Ellas, the eldest son, a most promising officer in the Engineers, rv'^markably handsome in per- son, and gifted both with mental and bodily accomplishments, was the next prematurely taken from them. He fell a victim to fever, on his way to Ceylon, after a long and hazardous journey by the way of the Danube, Constantinople, Babylon, and Bussorah. Well for him, had he been contented to have gone by the usual sea route I But after es- caping the perils of the wild unfrequented countries he traversed, it was fiad to learn twelve months nearly after his melancholy end, how all his toils, hopes, and ardent best endeavours had terminated. " There was not a finer young man in the whole army than was my son!" his weeping father said, as he turned aside that his children might not see the tears he could not stop. His interesting journal, and numerous letters written from the successive resting posts of his long journey, were duly received and read with delight and pride at the family fire-side, while those who sat round little thought, the affectionate heart that dictated, and the able hand that guided the description of the traveller's risks and privations, would never mingle with them again in converse. Like Charles, his thoughts and affections always turned to home ; and as the first departed had collected the beautiful among ocean's corals and sea-fans, so did Elias make choice as he went along of whatever he thought likely to give pleasure to those, who " though absent to sight were to memory dear." Among the presents he made to his mother and sisters, were a fine col- lection of Turkish costumes, embroidered handkerchiefs from Constanti- nople, pieces of mosaic and lavas, with rich Albanian scarfs he had pre- viously sent over while stationed in the Ionian Islands ; but the pro- mised " BricW^ from the " Tower of ruined Babylon," whose procuring and receiving had occasioned so much conversation and agreeable antici- pation, never arrived. When Elias discovered to his great regret the place of his destination, he had every esteemed work on Turkey, Persia, and India, that " Eber's Library " contained, sent to him ; reading with assiduity day and night, and making himself well acquainted with the route he unfortunately could not be deterred from undertaking, and purchasing many valuable and useful scientific instruments. One of his sisters has performed the task of putting together his let- lers and journal, along with his services in the corps he had entered into, and of which, none can deny, he was an ornament and valuable mem- ber ; and she has executed the task with fidelity, prompted by affec- tionate wishes to render justice to her beloved and manly brother's mem- ory, who did not yield in generosity of temper to Charles. It is there- fore unnecessary to say more on his untimely departure from a world of 149 tffioials At el to offer ith muoh wttle over )r Charles est 8on, a ne in per- s, was the ^er, on his ray of the him, had t after cs- )cd, it was low all his sro was not is weeping Q the tears jrs written ly received those who id the able privations, harles, his t departed [18, so did ely to give ory dear." a fine col- Constanti- ic had pre- it the pro- procuring iblc antici- estination, " Bber's and night, brtunately y valuable ler his let- tered into, able mem- by aflFec- ler's mem- t is there- a world of perplexity and frustrated purpose, which, had Qod pleased, it seemed ho might have long lived to serve in his honourable calling. Some time before the intolligonco of his melancholy end was received, Mrs. Bumford told her family, at the breakfast table, she had passed a disturbed night, and dreamed of a very long journey — her dream was all about black, coffins, and confusion. Better had it been for the anx- ious mother to have u^uardcd the secret of her mournful vision within her bosom ; for unluckilv one of the domestics overheard the recital, and told it among her fellow-servants. In the number of these was a woman, who was laundress to the family, and had been the same in the familv of Colonel Durnford's predecessor. This person had the extraordinary want of humanity and tact to say to her companions, " There was good coming to them, for Missis had dreamed of Mr. Elias' death, and they would all have new black gowns 1" Who can blame the heurt-strickon mother, to whose ears this cruel saying came, if in the anguish of her just resentment, she denied the usual com- pliment being paid to her loved son's memory, by disappointing the thoughtless woman. This person was an honest, good-hearted crea- tairo ; and that this unfortunate inconsistency of speech did not proceed from malevolence or premeditation, is most certain, for Elias was beloved universally by his inferiors in station ; neither did the bereaved parent retain afterwards a warped view of her dependant's levity, since she con- tinued to hold the same place in her service as long as her family remained at Portsmouth. The husband was a superannuated marine, enjoying a small pension. The next letter is of a sad character, replying to one from Miss Durn- ford on hearing that Colonel By was no more. Miss Lucy Adams, the amiable lady who penned it, had been on the point of marriage wit^' Mrs. By's father, when his unexpected death placed Mr. Marsh's two infant daughters under her care and surveillance; and she loved them through life with a mother's entire fondness. " Shernfold Park, Feb. 17, 1836. " My Dear Miss Durnpord, — I should ere this have thanked you for your kind sympathising letter, had not your dear father left us so lately that I thought you would be glad to hear how my dear afflicted friend Mrs. By bore up against her severe loss; and I am happy to say tliat, considering her afflicting bereavement of one of the most tender and affectionate of husbands, she is as well as could be expected. It is true the sad event was in some degree anticipated, yet I can assure you, it was nevertheless awful and distressing ; but as we all only linger on earth in hopes of being translated to a better and happier world, the event is more to be lamented for those left behind him. We are all most anxious to hear a better account of Mrs. Durnford ; and that before long one of you will favour us with a few lines to say how she is getting on. We hope Colonel Durnford reached home in safety without taking cold. We all unite in aft'ectionate regards to your papa and mama, yourself, and all the family ; and believe me ; my dear Miss Durnford, Your truly affectionate Lucy Adams." • I i^ '; I P^^ ii r i 'v 1 r 1; .{ 1 ■• '• It! 'f fl , 1: ;' ! 'i 1 f 'W^ f m i\ s 150 Let Ufl pasfl on now to pay nnotlicr tributo of recollection to the amiable and gifted Vincy, who, on returning from Malta, hiH first Htation, and Hpondine a wintc in bin parentn' houHc, was ordered to Ireland. His Icttcrri from thenco relate what his life there was, until tho al torod hand-writing they betrayed, to the observation of his alarmed pa- tenta, caused them to believe some malady was consuming tho strength of their bolovod son, — the correspondence ho enters into with his father relating to exchanging quortcrs with another officer, cannot properly be omitted, as it intimately concerns the history of Vincy's brief life. " [Private.] Boyle, Fob. 22, 1836. " My Dear "Father, — I yesterday received a note of which tho fol- lowing is a copy : — " Enniskillcn, Feb. 19, 1835. " ' My Dear Sir, — As you will probably be surprised at receiving a letter from mo, I had better at once let you into the object of it. Heforo I know that you wore appointed to succeed Biscoe at Boyle, I had written to Colonel Thackeray to ask him to remove me there ; his reply was that ho was sorry he had not known my wishes before, as you had already boon ordered there, but that if I could arrange an exchange with you, it should have his consent provided no expense was incurred by tho government for travelling. My reason for wishing to remove from this district is, that I am quite a stranger in this part of the country, all my relations and friends living in the West and South of Ireland ; and Sligo is the head quarters of my family. If you have nothing particular to bind you to your present station, I think you would find this much the most desirable, being in a far more civilized country, and you would very much oblige me by consenting to an exchange. As you would not be allowed travelling expenses in the event of your exchanging with mo, I would of course be happy to defray the expense you might be put to in accommodating me. Hoping for an early reply, believe me to be, sir, very truly yours, " ' G. W., Lt. R. E.' " My reply to thi.s note was : — "Boyle, Feb. 21, 1835. " * My Dear Sir, — I have received your note of the 1 9th, and intend to take advice on the subject of it, so that I shall not be able to give you a final answer for a week or so — but this much I may say before hand, that, barring oy wish to oblige you, I have no desire to move from my present quarter. I am, very truly yours, V. Durnford. " < Lieut. W , R. E., Enniskillen.' " I should like to have your opinion of thi.s matter. I am myself dis- inclined to this proposal. Mr. W offers to defray my travelling expenses, but he says nothing about my trouble, and nothing about the extra expense of living at Enniskillen : it is however something nearer Dublin, which is certainly an advantage. • 161 " Tho now Hvatcm ImH now iittaincd to considcralilo romiluritv in thl« country. Ample dirwtionH (of which I can if you \>\vum hoauI copicH) hnvo boon forwarded for tho uhu of tho forni.s, but I rather tiiink that tho dirootionH nii^ht not ho well apply to the (Mtnipliciitcd uccountH at PortHmouth. " Tho Dinry " in niudo a UHeful record, answering indeed to some of tho Clerk of Workw' books at I'ortHmtmth, I unfortunately however did not make myHcIf fully uc(iuuinted with your improved method." " Whilo in Dublin I dined at the Artillery Mess at Island Uridge. Tho conversation fell on the llideuu Canal ; and opinions differing on a SjuoHtioD connected with it — whether or not tlie locks were at first built or tho passage of small craft, and then pulled down any thin tiiiiu iiHCortaituid in a difTicult paHNa^o to aHCuiid. I p) on hoard to-uiorrow, t\n h\\o will vory likoly get ofl' the Baiiu! or luixt clay. Had 1 known of thin doUuition hoforo, t Hhould of courwo have gone by land, and Hhould now havo boon in Tabrooz. The Shah brings back here from Tabrooz the lady (»f Sir J. CanipboU from Perrtia. From what I can awcortain it will take four monthn more to arrive there (Ceylon). Mr. Cartwright, the couhuI, recommended mo to go by the Shah, but ho thought it would havo Hailed throe weeks earlier. You will probably hear from mo while in Persia or before reaching Coy- lou. I am just going to row up tho harbor called Golden Horn." " Tabrooz, Sept. 3, 1834. " Dear Father, — I havo just timo to eny that I am well, and am about to start this afternoon, in company with a Mr. Hodgson, an Eng- lisii traveller, for Bagdad ; he is going with me to Bombay. Our bag- gage has been on tho road these two days, and we have been detained waiting for a lluckam from tho prince. I havo been staying with Sir John Campbell, who haH been most kind to mo. Thoro arc sevoral officers from India here. I expect to bo at Bagdad in fourteen days. I Lave rotjuestod Mr. Barlow, a friend of mine at Constantinople, to send you somo Turkish costumes for tho girls. My love to all. " E. DURNFORD. " Lady Campbell is now at Constantinople on her way to England. She was very obliging to me at Trebizondo, where I mot her and Mrs. McNeil." « Bagdad, Sept. 20, 1834. " My Dear Father, — It is with groat pleasure I hoar of a Tartar going from honco to Constantinople, and embrace tho opportunity of writing to you to inform you as soon as possible of my safe arrival at this place, having performed the most dangerous part of my journey. I must now inform you of the manner in which I havo travelled in the first place from Trebizondo to Tabroez. I camo in company with a servant of Sir John Campbell, who was taking despatches to labrOez. Wo travelled Tartar, that is, with post horses, changing wherever tho post station was. TVo got to Erzcroura in four days, and from thence to Tabreez in seven more, passing by Byazid, close to Mount Ararat, which was beautiful. Tho road from Erzeroum had boon represented at Constantinople as most dangerous, two Englishmen having been robbed, and two large caravans completely plundered, and numbers killed, which was all true. I was nine days at Tabrooz : Sir John Campbell was very kind. Here I met a young man, a Mr. Hodgson, son of the Dean of Carlisle, an East India writer going to Bombay. He accompanied me to Bagdad. We had our horses, and travelled at first about forty miles a day, latterly rather less. We were fifteen days on the road from Tabreez to Bagdad ; arrived here yesterday. Very hot here : thermometer at noon 93 in shade. I visited 165 the I'liHha of Suliinancn on rond in cckiIcihI hat nn the General Officer Comg at Ceylon." The above brief account of Elias Durnford is prepavcd by his sister, to whose care he desired his letters and journals should be entrusted. 167 SECTION xiy, WillUra the 4th. — Tunbridge Wells Anecdotes. — Mr. John Day's letter, — Devon-- port. — Belvedere lets. Iniperativo duty summoned Col. Durnford from bis sorrowing liouse to present himself to the king at Brighton, as was every year the custom ; and this attendance on royalty was tucceoded soon afterwards by a brevet, which changed the course of my father's subsequent life. My de;i" father's annual visit to the sailor king, naturally enough, therefore, created interesL among us. On his return, we always crowded round him, when he was seated in his arm chair, stirred the fire into its brightest blaze, and then heaped question upon question. The last time he was at Brighton, His Slajesty's reception was courteous, and condescending even to kindness: he made minute enquiries respect- ing his family, about Portsmouth, md about the regiments or duty there, and hoped !■> see hira at dinner, after appointing an audience uext day, for the ostensible purpose of my father's presenting his officers. Papa happened to be the first in the drawing or reception room : a few minutes after, a lady and gentleman (Lord and Lady Cork) came in, and the comp;iny dropt in by degrees, but none were announced, until the lord in waiting, preceding a royal personage, said, the king, or the Queen, the Princess Augusta, &c. This day the Duchess of Gloucester (Princess Mary) was a visitor : the queen embraced her affectionately. Princess Aujmsta spoke to my father, and enquired after his health. When the company filed Cu for dinner, my father was left with a lady, whom he gave his arm to, and afterwards found to be Miss Wynyard, bedchamber woman to Princess Augusta, On a subsequent occasion, as he was taking a place at the dinner table, by the allotment of one of liie gentlemen in waiting, the gentleman next before was told to resign his place to him ; on which he abruptly de- manded, " Pray, Sir, allow me to ask the date of your commission ?" Relat- ing this mistake, papa said '' He was in plain clothes, and saw me in a colonel's full uniform — he migl\t be a general officer iov what T knew, and therefore I said. Upon my word. Sir, I hardly know, but J believe it is dated April, &c,' ' Oh! if that is the case. Sir!' He bowed, in ac- quiescence," This punctilious gentleman w^us Colonel , commanding the Cavalry Depot at Maidstone. At dinner there was an equ.Tl number of ladies and gentlemen : this day my father sat between L-idy Cork and Miss Wynyard, He f 'und them both very pleasant and good-natuied : on saying something to the latter, about the Aides-de-Camp carving, sha replied with a smile. " Oh I there is very little to do here, in that way, as you will sec." In fact, njthitig on tht! table was touclied — every thing was carved by the atten- dants, Thirt style was new to him then, indeed it was considered resnl. Among the uelicaci/is for December, were plenty of asparagus, ;.iid pineapples, Service was of gold, with magnificent chandeliers; but these were not lighted up ever^ nigli'j tte expense being £50 per evening. II' few ! .■'•■"^ ^1 tJ: 168 His Majesty generally drank sherry, his favourite wine, with all the company separately. lie conversed much while at dinner : enquired whether there was much gaiety going on near Lord Cork's place, and of what kind it was, dancing, (Stc. ; wanted to know at what time people generally got up in the morning? His Majesiy made himself at home with everybody in a very winning and clever way. During dinner a gentleman told my father, the Princess Augusta wished to speak to him. She asked questions concerning the late heavy gales at Portsmouth, what damage had bef done there, and whether he knew Lord Charles Wel- lesloy and Lord William Paulott, both then stationed in that garrison, — calling them dear boys. Papa described the princess as very large and tall, she was universally kind and aftable. The king always took her to dinner ; this day he had a sister on each arm, — Princesses Augusta and Mary. When the company adjourned to the drawing-room, the queen and the ladies were seated at work — the queen's band playing delightfully. The king generally sat down to whist. My father asked Miss Wynyard who a young lady was, thea conversing with the queen ?" *' Lady 8elsay." Don't you think her a very beautiful young woman !" Another day he said to a young lady, "you are all very notable.' " Oh ! we make believe," she whispered laughing. The ladies assured him, that all the queen's work was for the poor. They dwelt much on her charitable disposition. Her Majesty was knitting cars for horses. There was a different carpet this year from the last, and several little tables exactly like some in our drawing room. This latter information pleased us much. The utmost ease and urbanity of conversation pre- vailed at the pavilion : but one thii.g my father always regretted, and that was the too great profusion of mulled claret. The last audience he Lad with William the 4th, on his Majesty's asking his standing in the army, he replied that in case of a brevet, ho stood one of the first for promotion. Now my father was always sceptical about the brevet, and never would allow that any such thing was forthcoming. Immediats. Delicate health obliging hex to drink the waters, induced her also to ride on the fashioi\able donkey, whose tiresome eccentricities of laziness, gave in I urn occasion to merri- ment and annoyance. On being asked to contribute to an album, she refused, saying, " Verses I never wrote, that were worth a single groat." The first year Belvedere was occupied an acorn was dropped into tl ^ strip of garden ground at the back of the house. The flower garden was guarded by an invisible fence, its greatest ornament becoming, after a few years, tlie advancing young tree, promising, when my ftither quitted Belvedere, to become in future time one of the " Weeds of Sussex," fiB the men of Sussex term the noble oak of Etigland. The comparatively poor soil about Tunbridge Wells could not boast of luxuriant myrtle trees, !( ri) 171 she rroat. as aa (lid the Engineer's Quarter at Landport, where, once every year, the Jews, with whom John Purnford made acc}uaintance, would come asking permission to gather sprigs of threo-loaved myrtle to deck the booths with, when the observance of the feast of that name was held. One night between twelve and one o'clock, while we resided at Belve- dere, robbers attempted to break into the house. They succeeded in bending and displacing one of the iron bars of the pantry window. A slight noise made by the ringing of the china placed in contact with it, was heard by mama : her sloepiiig-room opened on the hall, — she rose, threw open the casement of the hall window, that was immediately above that of the pantry, and boldly said, " Who is there ? go away ! " "I will shoot you !" was answered. " I don't care for that, go away. Sir," was her reply. The hint was taken, but some months' afterwards, in the Spring, on the removal of a quantity of faggots, the area in front of the pantry window had been heaped up with, a dark lanthorn was picked up, this man had dropt in his hasty retreat, A man servant slept close to the pantry, who protested to not hearing the confusion the alarm caused. My flxther long before had relinquished all expectation of obtaining compensation from the claims of his fother's family on the West Florida grants and estates, to which he was only co-heir, as well as those more exclusively his own of Mr. Pontenelle ; but it being suggested to him that in consequence of the death of Mr. Thomas Durnford, who was never married, and had left much valuable property, he might advance the claims of the legal heirs, he was induced to osumine more fully into them. At first he believed himself sole heir to Mr. Thomas Durnford's property, English lawyers having assured him of such being the law of England, as he was the eldest branch ; but, on discovering that such precedence was not allowed in American judicature, and that all the collateral rela- tions of Mr. Thomas Durnford w / Photographic Sciences Corporation 21 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 A iV ^V -^\\ 'o- .^ '4^:e^ o^ 1° ,.w^ ^. 1 O^ ■\l\ iJ\ hili :i '; ■ 1 r! ii r I bridge Wells, in which neither nettle, nor briar, nor mud was visiblr , The houses of the lower classes are all farm-houses, surrounded by heaps or collections of manure, on which the poultry enjoy themselves. There is an air of rude but cheer- ful profusion everywhere, and the country people are happy-looking creatures. They seemed generally to possess more intelligence than the same class with us. We reached home, after a walk of more than deux lieues, or six miles. Our dinner to-day consisted of a fish called the Jean Dord dressed with superb sauce, artichokes, and peas with sugar and butter : then a dish of veal with a sweet sauce of sorel, and a brioche. With this last, we were enraptured. Before tea, my two indefatigable companions took another walk. July 26. We persuaded papa to come out at twelve, although rather ur.willing, and went to the museum, which was closed. The library however was open ; and after turning over a book of prints, and reading an account of the Duo de Montpensier's reception at Alex- andria, we asked for the illuminated books. No one could tire in looking over these curious old volumes. Some were rudely designed, and others as finely finished. The gold looked fresh as if but of yesterday's application. One volume of the history of the Belgians was handed to us, the characters in French, the illustrations and pictures laboriously beautiful. The resources of this library are boundless. After dinner we went out again, and heard a charming band in one of the streets : then went to tbe extremity of the eastern pier, and watched the fishing boats enter the magnificent harbour. The surrounding views, both of Boul(^ne and the coast, were charming. Made inquiry 197 on tho \ray homo nbout a French Protestant Church, but without suoocss. 27th, Sunday. Papa had pronounced yesterday a desperate day, and to-day he called a coarse one. Notwithstandinj* our inquiries about a church where the servi''e is performed in French have been so fruitless, we resolved to go somewhere, and were proceeding out, when a gentleman met ua at the street door attired in a grey nSgligi, and said in English, " Do you seek a place of worship ?" Papa replied in the affirmative. He explained that there wore several, where the service was performed in English, but the best was very near our present residence. Wo followed his advice, and went there, much wondering who this gentle- man could be. I must recall the inmates of our house. First then came the owner of it and his wife. Monsieur and Madame du Pr^s, who had nearly completed their fiftieth wedding-day anniversary, a pleasing looking old couple, gay and affable in their manners. Then came their only daughter, Mademoiselle, a tall, harsh- countenanced, thin woman, of about forty, very voluble in speech, and overbearing in manner, but excessively shrewd and clever, as we soon discovered. Next came our maid Paoifique, or as the du Prds called her, Madame Drollet; a dig- nified looking handsome woman of twenty-nine, separated as we were told from a most cruel husband, — and the mother of three children. Mile. had recommended her strongly to our service as being a good cook, une brave femme, every thing desirable — efficient from dressing a lady's hair, to scrubbing the floor of her room. When told we had consented to engage her for our service, she threw herself into Mile's, arms and kissed her. In a short time her faults were the continual theme of Mademoiselle's discourse ; she was idle, she would not wash, she did nothing but talk, she was good for nothing. The fact was, poov Pacifique spent every spare moment in talking to us, particularly , and a most superior creature for her station she was, only too fond of reading, well acquainted with French history and politics, and quite companionable. Mademoiselle had stipulated to wash our clothes, inclusive in our bargain, but it turned out that she Jntisited upon Pacifique's performing the service of laundry woman, and pestered us with complaints of Pacifique's inability to iron. Indeed more wretchedly washed and got up linen was never seenj and it was all laid to Pacifique : at last we had to engage a laundress. But my reminiscences have betrayed me to wander from the subject, which was — going to the nearest church, — and a very nice one too, but it did not begin until a quarter past eleven. After church we took a walk on the ramparts, and went a short distance on the Paris road. Papa met at the church door an acquaintance. At seven o'clock in the evening we went i^ain, and found a full congregation. We started last Sunday at Sand- gate, when hymn 310 was given out, but this morning hymn 531 was sung. The collection of Bickersteth contains more than 800. July 28. We were too late by the time breakfast was over to see let diligences come in, and therefore walked to the Fort of St. Lambert, and then to the village. The view is very extensive from 1 i ill i'' ' i; I- ; {' i r <> i 198 I!' H ) the summit of the mount, which is the higliest ground ahout Boulogne and 300 feet above the level of the sea. I never have seen so beautiful a country. The undulations of the hills and lovely vallies enchauted us, though a mist hung over the horizon, which, towards the sea, obscured the English coast. In the opposite part of the house to where we lodged a gentleman with his family had rooms, whom they called captain Spencer. Mademoiselle called him un homme de grands connAissances, grand voyageur, grand — everything. Ho was society of himself. We had heard from all our friends at home that the English society of Boulogne was of no promising description ; all said, " beware of it, enter not into it." This made us cautious and rather afraid of encountering this family ; and we supposed at first that the gentleman who had directed us to a place of worship was the captain. Wo had resolved, during our stay in France, to confine ourselves to French reading, but Capt. S.^ with the true spirit of an author, presented us with a hind- rance. A few days after our arrival, Mademoiselle invited me to play on her piano-forte, I thought it would be uncivil to refuse, and accord- ingly went into Madame's salon. This was a handsome sized room, with a charming prospect of the windings of the river Liane, and surrounding country. Monsieur and Madame were alone, but the sound of music attracted Pacifique also, who entered, and listened to my performance with the attention of one who liked music; and when I rose from the instrument, the gentleman in the grey nigligi came forward and addressed me in English. He brought some pretty quadrilles for me to try, after whioh they expressed con- jectures as to wli ether I had seen this music before. I assured them not, but, lo place my musical capability beyond a doubt, he brought me a little piece he said had never been published before, and lately discovered in a nation hitherto supposed to possess no such thing as music. He opened the book and I played the march, one in itself of no great beauty. He then pointed to the author's full length picture, which fronted the title-page, ** Travels in Circassia, by Edmund Spencer, Esq."* " This," he said, " is Capt. Spencer, the father of the children you may have seen ; the likeness is taken by himself, in Circassian costume." He made me take the book with me into our salon : we returned it the same evening, and Pacifique took^charge of it with remercimens to Capt. Spencer. These gentlemen smoked continually, and we soon learned to distinguish the Orientalist by his moustaches and long chibouque. By degrees also we heard from Pacifique that I'autre Monsieur " dtaitun pauvre garden anglais," wrecked a few months ago at Boulogne ; she said he was a portrait painter, and that from his loss of property consequent on that misfortune, he was neces- sitated to work his way farther on. * This gentleman's works are referred to hy Sir A. Alison in bis " History of Europe." 199 Capt. Spencer soon made papa's acnuaintanco ; ho lent U8 English newspapers, at the same time letting us know, that his large library was at our service, and the " the Prophet of the Caucasus," an Historical Homancc in 3 vols., accompanied this polite offer. We were little disposed to spend our leisure hours in reading, out the books were by degrees read. Great preparations are making and great expectations are forming in anticipation of the annual fair soon to be held without one of the gates. Pacifique is eloquent in describing the various pretty things to be dis- played at it. Besides Pacifique there is an old woman in the house, who goes by the appellation of " la cuisinUre," or Madame Spencer's servant. Madame Spencer's voice in speaking French with the women, is particu- larly soft and pleasing. Her girls go to he school at the convent of the Ursulines. July 29. Jane and I set off before 8 o'clock this morning with our maid Pacifique to hear mass in the church of St. Nicholat areen seemed to be the prevailing colour both in the priest's orn ment(<, and in the furniture of the church. A woman during the st vico went about col- lecting money ; when she came to us, as we happened to be without, Pacifique put in a sou a piece for us. This usage of demanding a sou from each person is so minutely observed, that, on one occasion, Jane having given two, one was returned. Two of the priests were in white surplices with green bands, and three in black ; one of the last was the vicar-general. On our return it rained hard. These being one of the three days set apart by the French nation for the commemoration of the Revolution, as soon as breakfast was over we set out again to see a Review of the National Guards, but the National Guards thought it was going to rain, and therefore turned in when it was expected they would have fired their /at de joie. The cannon, however, fired in remembrance of the three memorable days of July. We dined at 2 o'clock, an hour earlier than usual, at the instigation of Mademoiselle, who had accompanied us in the morning, and oftered to go with us again after dinner to witness the rejoidssances ; but we had only reached the middle of Rue d'Aumont, when a violent storm came on, accompanied with thunder and lightning. We took refuge in the house of Madame la Boulangire. Her place was extremely neat, and her reception of us would not have disgraced a lady. The conversation turned upon Colonel Sanscous having dismissed the soldiers in so hasty a manner. A report was in consequence spread through Boulogne that Louis Philippe was dead. The inhabitants are very angry about it. The conversation then turned upon animal magne- tism, and its wonders, but we understood very little of what was said. Mademoiselle entered into a long history of a suitor of hers, who would have married her two years ago, if one of the parties (we could not com- prehend clearly which) had consented to change their religion. Made- moiselle, from her own confessions, has broken many hearts. Madame la Boulang^re's husband casts bronze figures ; among these, Cromwell and Charles the 1st of England were the most conspicuous. , 1 Vr • I 11:! H- ' § i ' fi| ! 1 !' ' ' 1 i . \ .1 ' . * m 200 " To Capt. Durnford, Newry : i ' i \ ii: < 1 ' I ii I " Boulogno-8ur-mor. July, 30, 184&. " Mt Deaf. Georoe, — It being uooessary to keep letters ready for instant dospatoh, tipritent thiH is oommcDood a day or two before it is likely to travel. I assure you this is a beautiful country, and I have never enjoyed myself so much. Our table is entirely French, and the more we enter with our landlady's daughter into its details, the bettor pleased she is, and the more pains she takes to pleaso us. This is how- ever considered to be an expensive part of Franco. Wo ought now to bo celebrating les rijouissances for the three days of July, but none have as yet taken place, and the people were first enraged with the commanding officer for turning in his soldiers, who were of course en grande toilette because it threatened rain, calling him un imbecile, and then began to ap- prehend an Ameule in Paris, supposing that some event of moment had occurred, such as the deatli of Louis Philippe. Indeed such a report waa current at Boulogne for a few hours. Mademoiselle took us to see a Review of the National Guards, but they turned in at the wrong mo- ment, and disappointed thousands who oared quite as much about spoil- ing their clothes as they did. Mademoiselle made us dine an hour earlier than usual, to enable us afterwards to walk out and see lea rdjouissances but instead of these, a violent thunder storm delavod our progress, and we had to run home and change our clothes. After tea, Mademoisello again came and said, we must come with her and see lea illuminationa et let/eux d'artijicea. I pleaded the fear of taking cold, but Papa and Jane went upon the ramparts, and returned in half an hour, looking somewhat sombre. At 10 o'clock, as we were retiring to our rooms, wo met Mademoiselle on the staircase, and she called out to us, " J'ai par- couru toutc la ville, mais point d'illumination, point de fcux d'artifices, et le bruit court que Louis Philippe est mort." Yesterday and to-day all is quiet again, and the disappointment seems to be forgotten. The soldiers we saw, did not amount to more than fifty. Boulogne is a hand- some town, and the fortifications strong and extensive, with several gates : the whole reminds me very much of Quebec. We have engaged our lodgings to August 23, at the end of which period, we have some intention of going on to St. Omer, there to engage another lodging for a month, as nobody in France will take you in for a shorter time. If you will come over, we will go to Paris ; your determination will decide, it is quite impossible but you must be delighted with France. I never felt so happy as now. I am convinced you would enjoy yourself also, so do pray " faites votre possible pour venir nous rejoindre." We are just returned from hearing a sermon preached in French ; I am writing at 9 o'clock at night. Yesterday we walked along la route de Paris, to see lea diligentes come in, and met six. They drive six horses, three and three abreast. We live on la route de Paris, just outside Porte Gayole, a situa- tion centrical and convenient both for town and country. Napoleon's traces are discernible all round Boulogne ; and there is in the Museum a medal he caused to be struck to commemorate the conquest of England, which we SUi and ai par- rtifices, I to-day The a hand- gates: ed our some g for a If you , it is ver felt so do just gat 9 see les i three situa- traces edalhe ich we have not yet seen. We have seen the ouluiun juHt cructud tu his lueiuory, it is considered a very fine one. For my part, what I enjoy most, are the delightful walks, und the lino and oxtensivu viuws from the heights: I have never seen any thing so beautiful. At the Wells we were told that there were neither walks nor country about Boulogne ; and it appears to us that Boulogne possesses both in perfection. At the Wells we were told that Boulogne was a horrid hot place, and we find it pleasantly cool, while our domeatique tulls us it is never too hot in sunmier, or too cold in winter. At the Wells we were also told that we should liave plenty of delicious fruit in Franco, but as yet we have seen only the common kinds, and these not as fine as we had in England, but much chenper. I am, &o. M.D." July 30. As soon as breakfast was over, we set out upon the Paris road, purposely to see its diligences. Saw in the course of our walk five or six ; all with six horses, three and three abreast. The road is for a con- siderable distance paved or laid down with large stones. The river Liane winds along the road very beautifully, and wo passed two very large hand- some houses, one of which was the abode of Napoleon. Jane made two sketches, one of a mill and stream at Pont de Briques, und the other of the ruins of St. Leonard, u church said to be more than iOOO years old. While Jane was engaged at the first, I sauntered about charmed with the lovely scenery, and a fine poultry yard filled with turkeys of a bril- liant white plumage. A picturesque group of Frcnoh girls assembled round us at Pont de Briques, chattering and enjoying the rencontre. July 31. The first news this morning was, that the storm last night has caused the milk to turn, and consequently we must wait for break- fast until Pacifique run to Bue Boy ale for more. This occasioned our being too late for mass at the Ursulines. Set off a quarter before eleven o'clock for the valley of DenScre, but although the valley was very lovely, full of shade and pretty buildings, all very quiet and retired, the mud- diness of the road made walking disagreeable. We returned by the route de Calais. Sent off letters to mama and John. Papa and Jane returned in high spirits from the Post Oflfice, having found out Monsieur Poul- lain, the French Protestant preacher, and we went to hear him preach at seven o'clock the same evening. August 1. Went before breakfast to hear mass in " TEglise du Convent des Visitantines." Very handsome edifice, the church a miniature of St. Paul's. August 2. L'eau a tombe toute la matini^e. A deux heures, j'ai trou- v^ qu'il m'^tait n^cessaire d'aller faire un tour de promenade avant le diner. Papa et moi nous sommes months sur une hauteur qui commandait une belle vue. Apr^s le diner, nous sommes all^s in la Poste. Lettre de mama. August 3. Just returned from hearing Mons. PouUain. The sky cleared in time. His discourse was on the duties of a bishop. August 4. Went with Mademoiselle to see an exhibition of pictures, Vi;hich has been the topic of conversation for the last few days. Paci- III • -P m I. i' l«l 202 fiquo had informed us that tlic portrait painter, or nontlcman in groy, wa» vrorkin^? for th« exhibition ; and accordingly t'lo firHt pictures which pro- Bcntcd thciuHclves were hin |)crforinanoo. They were family grouiw* ; one portrait reminded U8 of our lato neighbour, Dr. Burdor. Another flingular Bubjeot of his reprcHcnt<«l n crosH, the hands joined at top with the words <\ Dieu, the heart (i mrg umiii, the hIcuU at the bottom, d la ttwrt. Wo could not commond his ohoioo of subjects. Some of the pictures in the oxliibition wore extremely well executed. At night Pa- cifiquo told us that the painter was employed upon another nioture tri» joli, with cows, also designed for the exhibition. In the evening hoard Mons. PouUain again. Ho gave a sort of missionary sermon, of which I understood very little. Twelve persons were present including himself. Wo then walked through part of tho Museum, which contains a superb ooUection of animals, birds, fish, and reptiles, insects, shells, minerals, and statuary. The medals are magnificent. August 5. Debuted over night which was the best road to the Convent of tho Scours Orises, as papa thought there would bo too much confusion and noise if wo passed oy the Foire. We set off a quarter before six o'clock, and went vid Foiro, where every think looked quiet nnd orderly. The merchandise was partly set out, but there was no appearance of Btir. Passed a funeral just without Porte Oayolo. We knocked at the Convent door for admittance, and were told by one of les Scours, there was no service in the church. She was a good-natured looking young women, who courtesied affably. We then proceeded homewards; and haaring music, and a black cloth being suspended outside the church belonging to the Couvent do I'Annonciation, we entered it, and heard some good chanting. The altar was lighted up with a number of can- dles, some of which were moved about continually. After breakfast, wo went at my solicitation to the Foire, but it turned out a mere display of paltry jewellery, toys, and things of that description. Without the Dooths, exhibitions of all kinds were announced. Leading from the Foire in all directions wore streets filled with more useful and substantial merchandise. One street was literally filled with old clothes ; another with stalls of country people's strong shoes and boots, and half a street was devoted to the clean-looking white ware peculiar to France. The market place was nearly empty, it not being th? proper day for that spectacle, and so in spite of a high wind, we walked to tho height where stands tho ruins of what is supposed to have been tho frantic wretch Caligula's Tower. Papa settled with Mademoiselle for our third week. When money matters were closed, Mademoiselle entered into conversa- tion, and after talking for some time, alighted on the topic of pictures, arid at last the portrait painter. She dwelt much on the merit of the picture he had just finished, and asked permission to introduce the artist and his performance. We could not in civility decline seeing either. The picture was first introduced ; it was well done, but a carious compo- sition, being nothing more than two cow.s, — one standing higher than the other, — two sheep, and a goat. We were obliged to commend it, and Ma- demoiselle went in search of the painter, but returned in a few minutes, fj; t '■ 203 saying, " ho wiw no where to bo found." Wo nil Inrghcd ; Imt not diw- couragcd, dho wont to look for him again, and with lUoro nuccchh than before, as she noon re-entered accompanied by the gcnllemnn, who came in bowing very modostlv, and Haying an ho did ho, " I am not a firHt-ratc r inter." However this might be, wo all prniHod liiH performaneo, and persuaded , who wbh uIho very modoHt on the occasion, to bring forward Bomo of hor Bketches. Of oourso ho wan much pIcaHod, but her skotoh of Porte Gayolo ho objected to in not Imving a foreground, at the same timo pointing to his own. Tho most prominent object in ]m was a leafless be igh, of which I could not discover the beauty. I objected to the dark colour of his sheep, but ho maintained that a scoroliing suu'h rays produced no other. Ho then told us his father was colonel in tho Ame- rican militia, and had distinguished himself in the old American war, he Wtt8 himself English born, and had travelled in Italy, Germany, Kgj'pt, England, Wales, and Scotland. He spoke English, French, Italian, German, and Welsh, and dwelt much on his regret in not having ac- quired the Scotch. He appeared very well informed. He begged to bring in a camera luoida of his own making, which ho represented as a wonderful thing; but luoklesslv, as there happened to be no sun, it could not bo made to act. Soup to-day was rather indifferent, and pupa did not like his pork, chops. August 0. A high wind, cold and dry, blew, whose searching effects our warmest wrappings were insufficient to protect against ; it raised clouds of unwholesome dust, that threatened to stop our breathing and blind our eyes. Papa often strolled on a road intermediate with the valley of Donfioro, and the path leading to Echinhen ; it led past the Cou- vent dos Visitantinos, and large fields planted with potatoes. This wn hands, ves in that I often ex- and been reral times, d hopes of ed currants jdied. As e were led id by Mon- innoyances dame and her share ; thout their of her idle- last appre- irture, the it right at •tain, with e to do at ill the little onsieur du enjoyment ' Paris had inner table 1 cotelettes le cake the not eclipse <► t iiiit. .*. : • '■■ •'■ ■ !*•• if.: .',lvV •1'*' '■V (!,.l ,1' rr " ■ •y.t SECTION XVIII. I'lll' . I' » (.' ^l»»>^Tl', j /.:tt; Paris. — St. Omer. — Calais. — Passage to Dover.— Weston Hanger. \ Aug. 22, 1845. Wo took leave of Monsieur du Pr^s soon after dinner, as our diligence was to start at 4 o'clock. Capt. and Mrs Spencer with Pacifique accompanied us to the station, where we said adieu to our kind friends. There was some confusion before we were finally seated in the diligence, with three ladies and a child besides ourselves. They battled for their places, saying they h?d engaged them in Lon4on a week ago. They were strange, vulgar-looking women, the little girl, one of the ugliest, disagreeable children imaginable, but all four were handsomely attired, noisily sympathising with each other, on their late stormy passage from London, and the trouble they expe- rienced in stowing their little persons comfortably in the capacious seats of the diligence. The lady with the child had an oaken chest, so large, that it caused no small terror among us when brought out to be placed over our heads ; she behaved very civilly and considerately however — for the child setting up a terrific howl, she would have sent the packing case by the baggage conveyance, but for the assurance of the people employed that we were not over regulation weight. The diligence set off, 20 minutes after 4 o'clock. It stopped at Montreuil for dinner, 20 minutes before 8; having already taken that meal, we preferred coffee, which, with the butter and milk, was exquisite. The diligence is among carriages what the elephant is among animals; the one we travelled in was both easy and commodious, yet our fellow-travellers annoyed us by complaining of want of room, and we were obliged to push for our places against them, or they would have occupied our seats in addition to their own. As night drew on, the planet Mars first attracted our attention; and then the harvest moon rose and drove away obscurity. During night we passed through Saumur, Montreuil, Abbeville, Beauvais, and Beaumont, and morning's light spread to view a free and fine country, with plenty of standing corn, and hay in ricks, while In some places the cheerful reaping hook was busy. Then 'appeared long avenues planted with trees, and vineyards in abundance, the vines trained to about the height of currant bushes. But I encroach on a day, and must therefore date from Aug. 23. By 8 o'clock A. M. we were terribly tired, the more so, as no call or intimation for breakfast came. When there were halts for relays, papa Called out more than once the word dejeuner: the ladies were becoming clamorous. We were at last called to get out at a wretched public house about 25 miies from Paris — it was half-past ten, and our party were resigning all prospect of breakfast, — however every one responded gladly to the invitation. My dear father's nose "bled very profusely, after we returned to our travelling conveyance, alarming us much — on this occasion our fellow passengers were very Icind, and made amends for their former ungracious impression. ill I i ! \. 212 Previous to entering Paris by the Porte St. Denis, we halted under a machine for the purpose of having the diligence weighed. This adjusted, we were permitted to behold the streets and boulevards, and were then safely lodged in the office of the messagerie. Before indulging in the solace of rest or refreshment, it was necessary to engage apartments — proceeding from the office, a man from the Palais Royale urged us to conclude a bargain with him, offering board and lodging for fifteen shillings per diem, exclusive of a sitting apart- ment. We refused him, and went to Lawson'n Hotel, recommended by my cousin as being kept by an Englishman. Lawson had nothing to furnish us with but two handsome bedrooms, which we at once decided against, not then being sufficiently initiated in Parislnn* custonjs. The charges were also higher than at the Palais Royale. L'llotel de I'ambassadcur, which Capt. Spencer named, was next tried, and finally decided on. It was nearly 5 o'clock when our first Parisian breakfast of coffee, eggs, &c., entered. The journey bad occupied twenty one hours. After coffee we walked out, passed by the Bourse, the Madeleine, the gardens of the Tuileries, and Rues St. Honor^ and Rivoli. The shops . and bazaars looked very attractive. Aug. 24. t^^unday. , We were disturbed this morning at a quarter before six by loud knocking. It proved to be the noise of v orkraen employed in the next house. There is to be a grand fete at Versailles to-day : — this makes us feel our locality. The sun shone brightly upon our loftily perched eyrie, on dtage 5. Our spacious and comfortable rooms look down upon a court yard enlivened by the green foliage of a tree or two, seldom without a carriage in readiness to convey some traveller abroad. No sound reaches us except the voices of the domettiques, and the occasional locking and unlocking of doors, — a work of singular difficulty when it comes to our turn, from the strange construction of our key. The hexagonal-paved and slippery floors will break us in for the Louvre. In this old-fashioned French hotel the time seems to reckon from six in the morniiig ; 7 o'clock is one hour, or 1 o'clock, &c. At nine we descended to breakfast at the table d'hdte, where several gentlemen were eating cold meats and vegetables — wine was also on the table. We alone called for coffee, eggs, and bread — the last came in long stale rolls, which it was hard work to cut. Reasoending to No. 5 to |dress, we proceeded first to the messagerie, to enquire for a missing cloak of papa's ; — this was safely guarded there, and most civilly returned to its owner. At VEglise de VOratoire, we staid two services, the first being more than half over when we entered. The ginging was loud, and discordant enough to throw a nervous person into ■ hysterics. The church was crowded with well-dressed people, though the building throughout was gloomy and dirty. We then walked in the gardens of the Tuileries, as far as the Champs Elys^es, \mA at 4 o'clock entered the beautiful and celebrated church of St. .dRdohes, which, notwithstanding its great size and magnificence, was solely mentioned to our notice as being the church in Paris where the 213 best music is heard. The singing was pretty and not too loud ; wo went round the building, and then called on my cousin in Rue St. Florentine, who was not at home. Wo again entered the gardens of the Tuileries, and sat down. Then a French lady and gentleman joined ua, with whom we entered into conversation. They strongly recommended the convenionoo of a restdurateur to travellers instead of expensive hotels, declaring that a good dinner might be -had for sixpence, and a splendid one for trcnte sous. The graceful shade and gay company of these gardens did not reconcile papa to spending a Sunday evening there, and he felt relieved when the hour approached for us to attend service again at TEglite de la Reine Il4line. On reaxshing the church we were given to understand the service would not commence before half past seven, — we determined to return to our hotel. " Le$ rues viltUnement sales partout.^' My cousin and her husband called while we were taking aifi ; they had been to the hotel twice before, while we were out, and brought a ticket for the Chambre des Paires. Aug. 25. Called at 12 o'clock by appointment on my cousin. Her apartments were up three flights of stairs, but very elegant, being a number of rooms opening into each other, and possessing the advantage of being quite removed from the noise and stir of the street. From thence we proceeded to the chamber of the Deputies, and then to I'Hotel des Invalides. I tasted une goutte d'eau from one of their pewter jugs, and we sat down in the chapel to contemplate its blood-bought decoration of countless ensigns suspended on high round the building. The galleries and passages formed in each direction lengthened vistas for the eye to search through. " Now for the Champs de Mars" we cried, in coming out of this splendid edifice; and, regardless of heat and dust, we toiled across the noble field. Returning by the fine suspension-bridge " Pont des Invalides," in passing along the Seine we obtained a good view of the Parisian washerwomen, and the large barges full of wood, which is said to be so dear in Paris. The Champs Elysdes were now in view, and feeling by this time in need of refreshment, we looked jpar ga et par la, in search of a restaurateur but none eligible pre- sented, before reaching Rue St. Honor^, when we entered one, and had Vermicelli soup, PdUs d, bechamel, Parmesan cheese, and an odious tarte it V Anglais, with the addition of a wine glass of eau-de-vie, for not quite six francs. This was very comfortably served, and, as usual in France, pepper as well as salt cellars were laid. We came home by les Champs Elysies et le Palais Roi/al, through some filthy streets. August 26. The table d'Hote at breakfast to-day, was filled up with gentlemen. The newspapers gave accounts of fires at New- York and Bordeaux. Our morning's visit was allotted for the Chambre des Pairs, ■which has not sat depuis deux loois. The route to the Luxembourg lay over Pont-Neuf; and, on reaching the palace, our guide Mnc dame dignified according to the old style, first shewed us the apartments of Marie de Medicis — next came the fine Chambre des Pairs, and then the Throne, wheto Napoleon once sat, and where the statue of Louis . I i: I' i '-■^■< 214 i; -h H Phillippe then replaced him. The gardens were enchanting ; we rented in them, and thence proceeded to the Pantheon and the large Church of St. Sulpioo. Both seemed melancholy. Bought cambric handkerchiefs for muma in a neighbouring street, and then went into a rittaurant ; but it proved much inferior to that in Rue St. lienor^. As it was still early, we wont to the Louvre. Papa produced a pass- port, which had been given him in exchange for the first at I'Hdtcl de I'Auibasfladeur, and had the mortification to hear the person pronounce on it, " i7 ne vaut rien." Wo then displayed a ticket de paire which admitted us. It was after 3 o'clock when we entered, and therefore were not per- mitted to remain long, as every exhibition in France closes at four. This celebrated gallery is of an immense length indeed. We had previously made up our minds not to get heailacbcs by looking at too many pictures. We were soon hurried out. Looked ut apartments, and partly engaged them. Our passport was returned to us, when we reached the hotel, and we have decided on moving. We shall quit a lofty and somewhat romantic site — its principal drawback is caused by the filthiness of the surrounding streets. At 8 o'clock papa descended to the table d'hote^ and when he rc-a^cnded, said he had eaten a capital mutton chop. August, 27. Papa and Jane went out before breakfast to secure apartments, and while they were absent the Count of St. Antoine called. He brought more tickets, and advised our visiting the Gobelins. At 12 o'clock we removed to the Faubourg St. Honore, after taking leare of the civil people at Vhotel. The gargon to our no slight amazement, brought all our baggage after us on his back, but broke a window in carrying it up stairs. He demanded four francs for his labour, more than double the charge a carriage would have been. We marketed, and then took a voitnre for the Gobelins. The company looking over the pieces of embroidery executing there, was numerous — the time and la- bour bestowed on each design immense. We returned to our Rue Ma- tignon likewise in a voiturc. A smell of charcoal from the cuisine warn- ed papa, that its close proximity to his room might be dangerous, and we resolved in future to avoid having fires in the evening, and forego the English luxury of drinking tea. The noise in the streets, and the smallness of our room, contrasted unfavourably with the space and quiet of I'Hotel de I'Ambassadeur. August, 28. At three o'clock we met my cousin, and repaired with her to I'Elysde Bourbon. After going through the rooms of this palace^ and admiring our faces in three droll magnifying mirrors, we were joined by the count, when we all got into a voiture, which drove us first to the Place Louis Treize, and then to the site of the old Bastille, taking the fish market en route. In the Place Royale stands an equestrian statue of Louis Treize. An elephant of colossal proportions marks the ground where once stood the Bastille, while the monument and column erected to the memory of those who fell on the ever-memorable three days of July, stands fresh beside it. With one foot extended, the figure of the winged angel on its summit, mildly rose in golden beauty against the 215 we redtecT Cliurch of dkorohiefs staurant ; icd a pasB- rH6tcl de nounce on 1 admitted e not jper- bur. This previously ' pictures. y engaged the hotel, somewhat !S8 of the i/e d'hote, liop. o secure ne called, i. At 12 5 leave of lazement, 'indow in )ur, more cted, and over the ! and la- Rue Ma- ine warn- rous, and d forego and the nd quiet red with is palace, re joined it to the dng the statue J ground erected days of re of the inst the clear blue sky, and bright fresh crowns of artificial flowers lately hung on the rails surrounding the column, told of the living spirit that breathed from and around this awful spot. At & o'clock we reached I'Hotol do Parin, where we dined. The niinistf>r from Monte Video was among the company, a friend of the St. Anthoines. This is considered one of the best hotels in Paris, and the dinner served to us did not belie its estimation. The table was orna- mented with large gold plateaux. Sonpe au vermicelli came round first, then melon ; this era at dinner being, as the French say, the proper time for that fruit to bo eaten ; mackerel ar chemin de fu; and the distance again from the terminus at Versailles to the palace, we were tired by the time of reach- ing it — we hc>d over-calculated our strength. The town itself is hand- some : it has fine, open streets, with good shops ; in this respect not so desirable for a place of retirement as the more unostentatious St. Cloud, though without the magnificent cavalry barracks and stables of the latter, that had yesterday attracted so much of our notice. To note upon paper the beauties of Versailles, would be waste time and attempt ; its countless rooms, interminable length of galleries, and myriads of pictures, mirrors, statues etc. ; no two apartments seemed to be alike, except in successive splendour. We had heard of the three days in the week only it is open to public exhibition, the other days being appropri- ated to polishing the floors, and keeping the whole in exact order. The mosaic floors of France, especially of Paris, are, indeed, of great beauty, from the hexagonal tiles in the Hotel de l' Ambassadeur and our humble flat in Rue de Matignon. to the finely laid down floors of the Louvre, and the far more brilliantly pf^-fect footing presented throughout unri- valled Versailles. Indeed, in some of the last visited and most exquisite departments of the palace, it was necessary to tread cautiously upon these shining and slippery floors. Among the painters, David and Vernet stood most conspicuous. Some pictures were striking ; and partic- ularly one, representing the Prince de Joinville, at Algiers, standing on the quarter-deck of his ship, I am not likely to forget, as it occasioned a 219 difference of opinion among our party ; papa maintaining it was the stern of the vessel seen in the picture ; and another of us insisting it was part of the side. In the room next to where this representation hung, there was a painting of a review on the Champ de Mars, accurately laid down^ but with buch dead shades and absence of colouring as to border on the ludicrous. Through the vast number of historical and family designs that crowd this marvellous pile, the gaze actually alights on few. Whether the palace contains, os said, three hundred and sixty-five rooms, or not, we tailed in ability to reckon, and cannot decide ; but we thought, while traversing them, that they seemed more resembling the tales of the Ara- bian Nights in number, which amounted to one thousand and one. As to the enchanting gardens and parks, thfeir lovely serenity, as seen through the windows, tempered the golden and crimson blaze 9f the palace : and we cast longing looks in their direction, for exploring them, with our limited time, was impossible. Versailles has never been paid for ; it belongs to the nation, and a glorious monument it presents of the past and present, for Louis Philippe never tires in its improvements.. Water and wood abound. It is an oriental palace, such as fables paint, tranquil and verdant in the midst of its brilliancy. Crowds of visitors, of all ranks, went over it with us. On returning, we reached the terminus five minutes too late for the train, so were obliged to wait until 5 o'clock for the next ; and were nearly spent by the time we arrived home, so allied to pleasure is fatigue. September 3. At half past eleven we went to the Louvre. On the way there we fell in with a regiment of soldiers, drawn up somewhere behind the palace. Papa stopped to look at them, — they did not • manoeuvre. The men seemed of short stature ; but papa said they were exactly the size for infantry, strong built and agile. In general, the French are not tall. We find ourselves little bodies among the lofty English belles, but maintain a just medium of height in Paris ; indeed, feel too tall — too tall to compete for light Parisian grace. When we got to the Louvre, papa exhibited his passport, and was desired to write in a book the number of his place of abode, etc. ; having done the same before, he felt impatient, and said loud enongh to be overheard, " Lord bless the man !" The gallery was well attended, without being too full. The pictures are certainly exquisite, but require wore time and attention in looking over than I had patience to bestow. In fact, nothing exhausts more than multitudes of fine pictures looked at together ; singly contem- plated, they refresh ; altogether, they distract. Numbers of artists were everywhere engaged in copying paintings ; they were both male and female, and of all ages ; some so young and lovely as to compete, in my vulgar estimation, with the interest excited by the admired subjects they studied. Often we observed several employed about the same picture. Before one subject no less than five artists were busied. Some had mounted themselves on ladders, and all seemed alike regardless of the observation they attracted. One gentleman, with beard and moustaches ot such monstrous proportions, as to rival, as a curious exhibition, any fabled monster of antiquity, on the walls of the gallery, was overlooking U' Ill n y n ■ i: I' i i. il itfl (ft 220 the work of a little girl, with exquisitely pencilled and braided ringlets of flaxen hair. A matron, engaged in reading, aat close to this young lady ; and her copy was very masterly in its progress. We returned home oy Bue Rivoli, whose magnificence we were delighted in having an opportunity of contemplating at leisure. September 4. The count called, and charged himself with letters for George to be sent by the ambassador's bag. We visited la Cathddrale de Notre Dame, the oldest church in Paris; and, of all the temples ever consecrated to the worship of Deity, that in which the Spirit of Darkness has contended most openly for supremacy. The interior of the edifice did not correspond with the grandeur of its outward appearance. Papa, on the way back, engaged places for us to go next Wednesday per St. Omer. September 5. Called on Madame de St. Antoine at twelve. Her black servant procured a citadine that conveyed us from Rue St. Flor- entin to our destination, which was le Jardin des Plantes. We drove along the fine quai. Hotel d' Oraay, and past la Cath(5drale de Notre Dame. This last is truly a grand old Gothic building, and well shown oflF. False reason and the hero's pomp and power, have, in turn, held sway within those walls; opinion and fashionable estimation now throw it in the back ground. On reaching le Jardiu des Plantes, we got out of the citadine, to walk about in search of what was to be seen. Numbers of people were amusing themselves watching the animals ; there were a number of very fine ones. The most remarkable was a hyena, of immense size, and a magnificent camel, with two great humps, a large elephant, girafie, dromedary, etc. ; and innumerable lions, tigers, bears, with a countless train of inferior captives, swelled the train. We sauntered over the gardens, enjoying the refreshing shade ; but the tree that drew our especial attention was the Cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1735, by Bernard de Jussieu. Although this promising tree has lived much over ore hundred years, youth is still the character of its bloom ; the noble aspect of its formation combines with graceful development of foliage. Coming out of le Jardin, we proceeded along la Halle aux Vins, which, at first, we mistook for a continuation of the gardens ; it was so elegantly laid out, and carta loading at different pretty, fanciful looking storehouses, performed their tasks with admirable order and exactness. We were desirous of seeing r Hotel de Mus^e de Cluny ; and threading the way by narrow, dirty streets, succeeded iu reaching it. Here, the illuminated volumes, the chief object of our curiosity, failed to gratify expectation, being by no means comparable with those we had so much admired in the Library of Boulogne, although the Museum contained many curious old things ; and, among these, the tapestry worked by Mntllda, queen of our William the Conqueror. This hotel was guarded by soldiers, as every place and corner of Paris is. Descending a circular staircase, in making our sortie we noticed the last remaining arch of what was the residence of the Roman emperor, Julian, which looks to great advantage from the win- dow loop. Returned home in a cabriolet ; and, in driving up the grand 221 avenue of the ChampB Elys^es, observed an arch in view before us, and were told it was I'Arche de Triomphe. After dinner we wlked to tlie church of St. Pierre de Chaillot, in the (Grrande Rue de Chaillot, — a church of tlie 11th century, small, neat, and newly done up. We con- tinued our walk to I'Arche de Triomphe, — it seemed to recede on approach. The roads leading to and branching o£f from it are magni- ficent. As to the arch itself, ^ it is the chief ornament of Paris ; it stands isolated in elegance and impressive effect ; it is inscribed all over with the names of the fields which have conferred imperishable renown on the great hero and his heroic marshals. Our admiration of its incom- parable beauty wf.s unbounded. The ascent to the height where it stands IS so gradual as to deceive the eye while approaching it in a very remarkable manner. Sept. 6. We determined to see Neuilly this morning, after some deliberation, and got into an omnibus at Place de I'Etoile ; but were put out long before reaching the grand Arche, and forced to wait in the street until a proper conveyance came up. When we reached Neuilly we alighted at the bridge, and were charmed with the banks of the Seine ; its woody islands, and the thick foliage that covered its banks. Men were fishing and women washing linen in its dark green stream, which was full of boats, for sailing and for rowing, and also large floating houses. At the chateau we were refused admittance, being unprovided with regular ^ormission to enter, although they said the Duchess of Orleans was in t'le country. Returning, Jane made a sketch, and then we enteroil another of the innumerable omnibuses which pass and re-pass the b: idge • A sort of clock, fastened to the entrance of this conveyance, marked each voyageur's admittance. We reached home before 1 o'clock. The wide avenues of trees meeting the view in all directions on this fine road are surprising. Made our way to the Bibliothcque du Roi, but found it closed. Sept. 8. Sunday. This has bccn a day of hard uork. Unfortunately our petite bonne, Julie, was au hal last night, and, in consequence, this morn- ing's dijevner was half an hour latei than usual. Leaving papa at home,we went, after breakfast, to the Madeleine, but the sermon had begun, and we were forced to leave the church as the chanting the Hallelujahs com- menced. Thence, with papa, we repaired to the chapelle de 1' Ambassa- dor, Hue J'Agnesseau, and heard the Bishop of London preach. The cha|, ' ' » -to crowded that it was a relief to get home, and rest a short time, pr« pa ;ry to proceeding to the Palais Royale. It was thronged with vL ♦ 'fb, Sunday being the only day in the week for admit- tance. For this reason our party, particularly my father, visited it reluctantly. A bust of Mary of Naples, mother of the present queen, in an end room, was admired by some ladies present. The chandeliers throughout these brilliant suites of apartments, were very splendid; the room in which the throne was placed hung with crimson velvet, the sofas and chairs covered with the gobelin tapstry. No doubt many of the pic- tures were good, but we recollected little of any, except a full length TA^ness of the poor young prince, the late Duo d'Orleans, Louis Philippe's \i !i ill m I f! i;-! I ; i' t! I , :■,' f in ^r . fi 222 eldest son. The rooms were all filled with historical tableaux. We looked again and again at the beautiful stoves, in white and gold porcelain, dis- posed in horizontal lines. Leaving this bijoux of a palace, we mounted a cabriolet, and drove to the chapel of the morning. Bishop Lus- combe preached. Numbers of well-dressed ladies morning and evening. In the evening my cousin, with her son, paid us a visit. Julie says that her uncle, our pres'^nt landlord, is an old soldier, and served in all Napoleon's wars and in every campaign since. He has never been wounded, but his constitution is impaired by the hardships he has undergone. On one occasion, in Russia, he lived fourteen days on horseflesh. I repeated this to some one, who answered, " and lucky was he to fare no worse." At present he has a police appointment at I'Elysde Bourbon ; and, Julie says, saw us on the day we went over that palace with Madame de St. Antoine. He was, of course, dressed in the uniform of the police. Sept. 8. Set off at 1 o'clock for the Louvre. The. direct road there led by the Champs Elysdes and Tuileries ; but papa, conceiving there was more shade from the streets, preferred them ; unfortunately we became entangled in m^-'ny filthy, narrow streets, and were in danger of being run over by different voitiires, \ I'" pfter all this, came the mortification to find the Louvre closed, it ben aday. We returned by the gardens, and they proved a pleasant coi^ ist. The Palace of the Tuileries is undergoing repairs, and, therefore, not at present open to the public. Unwillingly we rose, from the bench we rested on, to quit its charming shade, but gratified to find that papa enjoyed the rorte home we had chosen. The Champs Elysdes led us directly home ; and, arrived at our central flat, we rested, then dressed, and called at No. 7 Rue St. Floren- tin a little before five o'clock, being engaged to dine with our cjusins at Lawson's, or the Bedford Hotel. The count did not join us for more than half an hour ; he was engaged at a meeting of railroad directors, and said, in his simple English, it was composed of an admiral, a general, a baron, a plain gentleman, kc. The English table d^hote at Paris dis- appointed altogether ; the fare was so coarsely served as to disgust ; the table cloth was dirty, and the meat, eut up in large slices, suffered to remain before the company in large cii'cular pewter dishes or plates. One of sliced ham was more offensive than the rest. The guests amounted to forty-four : at I'Hotel de Paris, fifty. Most of them had a plebeian look they were nearly, if not all, English. Papa made acquaintance with the person placed next him, who said he knew the Kirwan that used to enter- tain thf Prince Regent, and give seven guineas for a turbot. Mr. Kir- wan's extravagance reminds me of our bill of fare — it must not be omitted. Sotipe with macaroni, good ; boiled flat-fish, a description of brill, with tomato sauce; stewed giblets with onions; chicken, ham, roast beef, salad, peas d VAnglaise, as they called it, cooked without auy condiment, perfectly uneatable— duck. These several dishes of meat were cut into large, thick slices, and handed round in shabby peWter plates. A sweet jpdtie, with cream, good; large currant jam pie, ^^od but not sweet enough— called for sugar, and coarse cassonadevf2& brought ; cheese, pears, 223 ■> ' I melons, and peaches. Papa's new acquaintance said his father had been governor of Montserrat, After dinner, when the company had gone, our party excepted, he called out, " I say, can any of you Messieurs speak English?" We all started, thinking he addressed the count, but he spoke to the waiter who stood behind the latter's chair. "Yes sir." ■" Well then, can you tell me of some place where I can sec a little danc- ing ? " The ladies were gone to I'Ecole dc Musique, which, doubtless, put the idea into his head. " Can I go to the opera about the time they dance ? I don't want any of the crash of the orchestra, I only want to see a little dancing." " Oh yes, you can sir,, go exactly at the time." " I am glad of it. Pray is there any other place besides where I can see dancing? " The waiter answered " If he wanted to amuse him- self for an hour or two, the most eligible place would be the Palais Royale. He might smoke there." " No, hang it, that won't do, I don't smoke ; but is there dancing there ? " " No, sir." On our way home, the count proposed going into the Champs Elys^es. We did so ; the ehamps were prettily, lighted up, and we stopped twice to listen to some rude music, vocal and instrumental. The crowd everywhere was composed of the lower orders, but decorum prevailed. The Champs Elysies glittered with lights both below and through the trees and avenues ; they con- trasted charmingly with the dark thick foliage : then the multitudes of human creatures, all apparently enjoying themselves, while the tranquil moon and stars looked down in glory : the whole scene was unique. Among the novel sights of France, we often notice the enormous size of the waggon and cart wheels. September 9. We went with papa at 12 o'clock to Rue Pelletier in search of a banker ; as the weather was warm, the long walk tired us, and we flagged still more on reaching the manufactory for glass, when told it could not be shewn to those who did not intend making purchases. When we reached Rue Matignon we heard that the cat had again been mischievously disposedtowards the macaroni andParmesan cheese destined for our dinner. After dinner, dressed and spent the evening with Madame de St. Antoine. We were shewn two remarkable albums of the count's. One was solemn for a book of entertainment, being composed of leaves and flowers gathered from the tombs and graves of distinguished persons. To each, forget-me-not verses were attached. The other was made up of autographs, Jbrming altogether a brilliant assemblage : emperors, kings, princes, marshals, &c., without end. Papa, being a general, was invited to join the company. The count was full of railway projects — his soul seemed devoted to his country's benefit. ** We stand upon the ashes of two volcanoes," he said ; " confusion is yet surrounding us. We have done much, yet much remains to be done. We have an army of 400,000 soldiers — they want employment — it is dangerous to have so many ardent spirits in idleness. We think of putting them to work upon the for- tifications of Paris," and les chemins de fer. This suggestion startled us. Papa mentioned having "lately met with a debate on a similar pro- ject in an English paper : the expediency of employing troops in these ways was brought forward, but opposed on the ground that doing so would con- '■'<.? I 1^ h' ■M 11 f. t 224 vert English soldiers into slaves." This reply fired the count. He cried out " Britannia I Britannia I Britannia ! rule the waves I Britons never, never will be slaves !" We talked this evening no more on such projects. What England was about, seemed much on his heart ; — he supposed "her railroads were all completed." " No, far from it; nothing was thought of but commencing more." " Then she was building new churches, and designing new bishopricks ?" " She was engaged in both these, but at the same time was unable to fill those already built, and had hosts of unemployed clergymen on her hands." He thought change was necessary for his country. We told him the French seemed individually happier and more contented than the English, for discontent and a spirit of equality was rapidly pervading the lower classes ; in fact, Mammon was the sole deity worshipped, and Mammon, not content, was supposed to have reward in his right hand." He did not say much to this, but hinted at " the vast wealth of England." There was no denying this. We soon after took our leave. In going through his rooms, we stopped to admire the 4)rofu8ion of mirrors round them, multiplying and improving by reflection every article of furniture. These agreeable hotels are never molested by the noise and dust of the street. September 10. This being the day fixed on for leaving Paris, was employed in packing. Nothing unforeseen fell out, except that an item in our landlady's nirnioire demanded so many francs pour la cuisine, which we innocently concluded were to reward the services of our petite bonne, -^^ but to our no small surprise the good lady appropriated the gum to herself, and poor Julie was left to our generosity. The diligence was to start for St. Omer at six o'clock in the evening : to forestall time, we set off in a fiacre at four, together with our trunks, &c., only paying two francs. This low charge reminded us of the gargon from Tam- bassadeur, who had demanded four, and broke a pane of glass in addition while carrying his load up stairs. In consequence of setting off so early, there was an unpleasant delay at the messagerie ; this was something lessened by leaving it for half-an-hour, though at the hazard of our lives in getting past the voitures and chevaitx of the messagerie, to buy cakes for the voyage and enter the Church of " Notre Dame des Vic- toires." Papa found he had been undercharged on first engaging places, which annoyed him ; and next a gentleman insisted on placing a great case that looked like a picture, within the top of the diligence which also made him angry. Another Monsieur got in before we started, when for some hours we travelled pretty amicably. At 12 o'clock at night, we stopped for the first time since bidding adieu to Paris, which was quitted exactly ten minutes before six, and two large trays with coffee were brought to the door of the diligenee. The night air was cold, and our cloaks needful. At 6 o'clock we were invited to take cafi at Amiens. The invitation was joyfully accepted, though papt, who with ourselves considered it breakfast, grumbled at being hurried. The room we snatched this hasty meal in, was, like all the country inns, hung with a large shewy landscape paper. On leaving Amiens, hills occasionally diversified the prospect, but in general the 226 was road was tamo and monotonous. Hay, in large stacks, standing corn, with here and there a reaping hook; droves, sometimes of cattle, and sometimes of pigs, with one of sheep, were passed. Perhaps frequent stop- pages for relays roused us and caused double sight — certainly the towns during the night appeared to have occurred in very rapid succession ; indeed it seemed as if nothing like country had been seen. At half past ten came another halt ; and papa, not comprehending until too late that this was le veritable dijeuner, was rather annoyed at the discovery. From this to St. Pol, the hills rise high, making the road rather pretty — but from St. Pol to St. Omer the distance appeared interminable. It seemed as if St. Omer would never be reached. September, 11. "We reached St. Omer about 3 o'clock, or after a little more thon twenty-one hours travelling. It was as we had been led to expect, rather a sombre-looking place ; tranquille, triste, would it could bo added, clean. DiUjhes and lines warned of approach to a for- tified place ; we entered through a heavy gateway. After our baggage had been deposited in the messagerie, my companion instead of thinking about the Hotel de Commerce, which we had been recommended to lodge at, would absolutely first go to the Poste ; by which means, there being no letters, we had on our return the mortification of finding, that Monsieur le Commissionaire from VHQtel de Poste, had engaged Papa by dint of importunity to take up his quarters at his house. " We are recommended to T Hdtelde Commerce" we said, angrily to the man. "I will conduct you to a very good hotel, — TllStel de Poste" he quietly answered. This discomposed us, at first; we were obliged to content ourselves with two good bed rooms, and the table d'Ifote. For our beds we were to pay two francs and a half per night, for our dinner, two francs a head. At 5 o'clock we came down to the table d'Hote, to a capital dinner, — a profusion of every thing good. About fourteen persons sat down, mostly military, one very large man in uni- form, appeared to be the superior officer, as one of the younger officers in speaking of him, designated him, le sire ? No ladies were at table except ourselves. The table d'Hote at St. Omer, looked to advantage even after those of Paris. After dinner we again walked out. The aspect of the town surprised us, aa the houses were low-built, and the churches by no means either magnificent or numerous. We walked a little distance on the ramparts, from whence the confined view, and the water surrounding the town, sluggish and thick-looking, soon induced us to descend. This ditoh-water circumvallation is made by the river Aar. We met with no appartements d. louer. We took coflFee on returning to VHdtel de Poste, with bread and butter, there being no one present but ourselves. One terrible drawback to comfort in France, is unquestionably the neglected state of the streets. This occasions slovenliness in the dress of the people. It is impossible that ladies can take much pleasure in putting on fresh handsome garments, or elegant shoes and stockings, when streets are ill kept and devoid of neatness. French gentlemen — even those who are intellectual, accomplished, young, who devote their time P n If! Mf 226 S, ' J h m i and thoughts to the benefit and auieliorntiono f their country, — will, even in the presence of ladies of rank, spit on a carpet. As to the pretty shoes, Ac, of the Parisian belles, in the hot days of summer, to our amazement we noted that many wore great black boots, and suffered their long dresses to sweep the dirty streets, never holding them up like the tidy English woman. This impressed us with the notion, that the elegance of their toilette costume is chiefly reserved povi' la coiffure. This is indeed very pretty : — their chapeaux, bonnets and hair, are all charming. September 12. St. Omer. Enjoyed a comfortable night's repose after the journey. The same party of oflScers were at breakfast as had dined at the table d'hota the last evening, but we waited a considerable time for ca/6 while the French gentlemen breakfasted on cold meats, vegetables, and drank wine. Set off immediately after breakfast to sec tb3 town. We entered two large churches. In one, la Cathidrale, the mass was being offered up, — an old woman seated outside the door, told us she was aaee de cent et trois ans. The ruins of a fine old church stood a short dis- tance beyond. Several times we attempted to mount the ramparts, but they were not neatly kept ; grass covered them in a dusty uncomfortable manner, and although the view from them looked upon trees and fields, it was not refreshing. Several nice lodgings came in our way, which we looked at, but these were not to be had unless engaged for some months, Our walk was fatiguing; we returned to the hotel by two o'clock, to rest until the dinner hour of five. To day the dinner was better than yesterday's. The profusion was great, and every dish extremely well dressed and served. We marvel how they make it answer, meat not being cheaper here than at Paris or Boulogne. Passed to day through the market place, but the show of eatables was not particular. Beef 5d, the lb. veal 5d., mutton 6d. September 13. The same party at breakfast. Hurried out a little after 10 o'clock, to find the Bibliotheque Royale. In our route, went through the market place, if such it could be termed, when the whole town seemed to b« one great market. If the elegance and economy of Parisian taste was here wanting, greater abundance compensated. The pig lords it over the rest of the slaughter-house flock, and grunts and eats with more than common contentedness in the streets, the woods and fields surrounding St. Omer. Fowls are fifteen pence the couple, turkeys five shillings the pair, and a large goose two shillings and two pence ; fish and rabbits, &c., in profusion. An entire street was filled with old clothes, and another with pigs, just the size for roasting. Thence proceeding for the library, we had the mortification to find it closed. While stoping here, a regiment of Calvary passed, — with it papa's good eyes recognized a member of our table d'hote. Bested an hour at VHdtel de Poste, and then again attempted la Bibliothique. Found it still closed — it was vacation time ; neverthe- less we obtained admission, through the medium of two obliging old women, among fusty old tomes of all kinds. This building had been a fine church, but was destroyed at the Revolution. Some old scraps, frag- 227 1, even to the miner, nffered ip like lat the oiffure. are all se after 1 dined ime for les, and 1. We 18 being ras aaee lort dia- rts, but fortable d fields, hich we months, clock, to ter than liely well ot being )ugh the Jeef 5d, a little te, went le whole nomy of The ints and e woods couple, and two ?as filled oasting. find it -with it d'hote. .tempted leverthe- ;ing old [d been a ips, frag- ments of sculpture, and Dther remains, are preserved here, but nothing very remarkable. Alas ! St. Omer, in old times the cradle of Catholi- cism, the grand nursery of the church to France, was at the sweeping era of the Revolution shorn of all its glory, of all its priestly wealth and power. No longer the Oxford of France, it now exists as the school of another vocation ; — the Cavalry soldier's sabre clangs, the restless hoof of the wurhorse clatters, over its heavily paved streets. From the Bib- Uothiqur we returned to the hotel, but papa and Jane went out again to bring back news of having paid a satisfactory visit to the Convent des UrsuUnes. A letter arrived from mama, saying our house had not let when she wrote. Three new or rather novel dishes have come under our observation at this hotel, — an immense roasted pig, which came to table whole, black puddings ; and a thin fillet of veal, sliced into perpendicular divisions, similar to those of a round cake. When the pig was placed before the big French officer, after contemplating it with ominous respect, he relinquished the task of carving it to an Englishman, who sat opposite to him. Black pudding is a thing wo have been educated in a religious horror of, and never met with before on any board ; the genteelest looking of the officers, however, handed the dish over to us, which, as we were the only ladies at table, seemed to imply, that it was a fare well- esteemed. We had also the bean from the large scarlet runner, haricots, or what we call in Englafld, the French bean, but it makes a coarse, unpalatable vegetable. September 11. II ^)?cu^ aujourdliui. A lady this morning made her appearance at dejeuner, but her looks were not particularly prepossessing. Then we set oiF for tha English Protestant church. It was a clean upper room, bettor furnished by far than was poor Monsieur Poullain's at Boulogne, and provided with a harsh little organ, chanting, &c. It played us out with, " How beautiful are the feet of those who preach us the Gospel of Peace," (Handel) — very appropriately, as the preacher gave out that on the following Sunday, a jermon would be preached in aid of " The Incorporated Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts." It is sin- gular that since we have been in France, every time we have entered a Protestant church, a missionary sermon has been given out for the next Sunday. It was pleasing to find these poor people, so indifferently and poorly provided for themselves, emulous to work for the savage and the cannibal. At three o'clock attended service again in the same church or room ; very small congregation. It has been alternately raining and shining all day. The lady made her appearance at dinner, she is not lady- like looking. During dessert, as a gentleman helped himself to filberts, papa offered him a pair of nut-crackers, but he politely declined them, saying he had good strong teeth to use in their stead. We are well fur- nished in relays of plates, eight or ten to each guest, but the same knife, fork, and spoon, hold out during the feast. Since entering France, the cutlery supplied to us has been scant and miserable. Neither salt nor pepper spoon has made itself visible at St. Omer, although the pepper I 1! I It 228 h li cellar is inseparablo from the salt. In a little treatise on manners, writ- ten in France, it is laid down as contrary to polite Uujuette to help our- selves to salt or pepper with les doigU, ni avec le lout du manche de la cueiUer ou de la fourchette, ma it avec la pointe du couteau on avec iine cneiller blanche. It is usage which reconciles to all, since we actually begin to believe that elegance of manners may exist among people who have never used a regular salt spoon. September 15. This day we left St. Omer. Breakfast was ready at eight o'clock, and the English lady and gentleman, who dined yesterday at the tahh-d'h6te, took c(i/4 ai the same time. They were strange vulgar looking people, particularly the lady, with her coarse features, brown skin, and dark dingy coloured travelling dress. The gentleman prognosticated that we should be miserably disappointed with Calais, but was lavish in praise of Cassel, and the fine country surrounding it. The sky was overcast. Julie whispered to us, II est temps de jxatir, and we proceeded for our diligence. Papa told us he had bowed adieu very amicably to the great big officer, and the great dog was walking about the court yard as we passed through it, announcing the arrival or the approach of the ofl&cers. Besides the coupee, the diligence held nine : we were en arriere ; two Frenchwomen en bonnet sat before us, — there was a youth from Grand, and a French gentleman, who used, when he spoke, great action and gesticulation, besides our two English friends. We experienced a feeling allied to relief, on getting free of the creeping waters, and weed-covered ramparts of St. Omer, whose rank ditches, half choked up with noxious verdure, would give the lie to the plain truth, that its walls contain two regiments of horse, and two of foot soldiers. A short distance from the town, long straight avenues, regularly planted with the favourite horsechestnut,ofiered themselves to view ; we could have supposed the environs of Paris visible ; and along the high road were placed, as in the gardens of the Tuileries or the Champs Elyslcs, com- fortable looking benches. As we drove along, little bare-legged children annoyed us by begging. It wa^ amusing to observe their mal-adroitness. A girl, with a large loaf of bread under her arm, and every symptom of health and good feeding, prayed vehemently for alms a long time ; then suddenly recollecting this detracted from the effect of her appeal, or to obtain freer action for the motion of her frequently clasped hands, she gave the loaf to the younger boy. The French gentleman threw out a sous to the boy, but would not suffer the girl to take it. After these, two older children continued to keep up with the diligence — the gentle- man told them to go and work in the fields. He, however, appeared to possess a warm heart, as he at last threw them a second sous. We were overjoyed to reach Guines, we sauntered about among its few shops, while tarrying for a fresh voiture. From Guines, the route presents a totally difierent aspect, following the course of a narrow river or canal full of barges heavily laden, mostly with timber. St. Pierre came next. The approach to Calais is striking, with its ramparts, ditches, and heavy gates, the aspect of the town is far more lively than that of St. Omer, and the ■ i! 229 fitreets pasnod through were furnished with nice looking Hliops. The hotel the diligence Btoppcd at had an inner court, old French staircase, and French inmates ; but having been rccorauicndcd to the Union Hotel, we were silly enough to proceed through a heavy rain to it. Here to our mortification wo found every thing English. A largo party having just arrived, and sat down to dinner, we were asked to wait in an opposite room until we could bo attended to. This did not much please, and we employed the time in abusing English hotels in France, and officious English people who sot them up. On first arrival the news was, wo were too late for to-day's paquehot ; the next would not start till ten or twelve o'clock to-morrow ; besides which wo lieard, to our great dismay, that our passage would probably extend to four hours. Papa and Jane twice attempted to walk out, and were twice driven back by rain. An old man laid our table cloth, and waited on us at dinner ; wc took him for im Anglais, but he was born at Lyons, his father was Swiss, his mother of Boulogne, he had been naturalized in England, and married an Englishwoman, who had made him the father of a largo family. Poor man ! he liad met with reverses in life, and feelingly said all was not gold that glittered. He had been three years in Calais. Papa went out again after dinner, traversed the town and the ramparts, and returned to the hotel, reporting a storm. September IG. Ordered breakfast by nine. Morning cloudy. Our breakfast to-day lost its French character ; we had but a small propor- tion of milk to our cn/6, and English salt butter with the rolls. After breakfast, we resolved to go out, having three alms in view, viz. : to see what sort of place Calais was, to get a hrioche for mama, to buy our- selves stout shoes. We soon got upon the ramparts, which, for French works, are unusually well kept, and look down upon the sea, the har- bour contained nothing but a few small vessels. Two monuments have lately been erected at Calais, — one to the memory of a humane pilot, in commemoration of a merciful deed performed during the cruel revolution ; the other, to Louis XVIII, who landed here on his way from England. When wc entered the town, wc went into every cake shop, to enquire for brioches, but no such ^f^i^mw could find. At hat, une pdtissiere i^iromiaed to send u dozen, tout chxud, dans un qwtrt d'heure a V Hotel deV Union. We were delighted, considiiring our trouble as amply compensated. The people at V Union said the pa quchot would start at eleven, or probably not before half past. Papa was in a fidget to get olF, and had paid the reckoning, which, for an English house, was reasonable ; — when behold ! the anxiously expected hrioclus arrived, and on inspection turned out to be nothing but English buns, with the addition of saffron and currants. We exclaimed, " ilsne sont pas de veritahles brioches," while the French maid for some time had the assurance to maintain they were : we were not a little discomposed by the failure of our hopes of presenting mama with one of these cakes. Under a heavy drizzle and clouded sky, we reached the place of embarkation. After we had tarried some time on the pier, it began to rain again, and we went on board the dingy looking little steamer. As I sat disconsolately wrapt in a cloak on the i-, I ft 230 ic- ))iui- Hk'p that divldoH tho decks, otjo of thoHo iinportniit offioiftlH who wear tlirt'C-coruercd liaU approached, and duiimiidcd our pasuoport. Papa made reply he was weary of producing it, witcn tlie gcntloniuii, with tl hat, glancing ovor tho paper, angrily exclaimed, " Jtt nr voinqu'nne ih telle, oA e.-t I'aiitre f" I could not help laughing, puna pointed to where my sister sat, when, appearing satiHfied, ho took his leave. The rain continuing, wo were forced to go below, and I for one hud actually laid down in a berth, with no very consoling anticipations of un agreeable pas- sage, before tho steward announced to us that the boat was at last started. It was one o'clock. On entering the cabin, I t(H)k out a little book on " Christian Manners in France," and read attentively until the conver- sation of the ladies drow my attention from it. One lady counted on a two hours' passage ; I informed her we could not depend upon ono of less than three or four. "And we arc to be landed in sniall boats;" said another. This intimation startled me. Miss Kingston had described to us being carried on shore ut Calais on tho stout fisherwomcn's shoulders, and wo had also lieard the grei.t antipathy expressed by the captain of tho " Queen of the Belgians," to liis passengers being put out at Boulogne in boats ; but the idea of being set on shore at Dover in such guise, was completely novel. I listened in incredulous silence. " Mama," said a young lady in a berth opposite to the one I had taken pos.session of, " I do not like this man waiting on us." " Nor I either," replied a lady, " it is not so in our English boats, but tho French, my dear, think nothing of these things." " No mama, it was not in the least like this in the English steamer we came from London in, you recollect we had two women to attend on us then." On hearing this, I was again silent, recollecting perfectly well the two clever stewards who had attended tho ladies on board the Kolkstono and Boulogne boats. It is better to sec with one's eyes, than even to trust to the hearing of one's ears, thought I. Until now I have doubted which of those precious senses are the most to be prized. " I don't like it indeed, mama, do you know the man wanted to untie my dress and unlace my stays for me ? He .'^aid I was " trop 4troit" — too tight, but I would not let him." The ladies present all expressed indignant surprise, as indeed was natural. The motion of the piujuebot soon became affreuse to those not at home at sea ; I, along with the rest, was deadly sick, and unable to open my eyes, except at intervals, but the groans and plaints of my poor suffering companions made me sensible to not being solitary in this hope- less misery, of all others the worst while it endures. One young lady, lying on the bench immediately below me, appeared to outdo everybody else in suffering. She was, indeed, terribly sick, I opened my eyes once, and saw her rich head of light brown hair bent over a basin the steward was holding for her, I opened my eyes again, really to think it must bo a dream, for, behold ! the man was verily and certainly in the act of unlacing her stays. I closed them quickly ; not entirely from horror, I was too ill to feel as much at the moment as I ought to have done. The steward's principal attention was occupied by this lady, but, indeed, the poor thing did seem much in need of it. Nearly the last time I opened 231 '11 iiiy evcM, while wo continued in this wretched plight, the man was Htnuding beside her; ho winhed to know it' " I hud not nnked for Hoinc- thin^?" I hud not. Ho niiHunderstood nie, I apprehend, for ho throw v(tH-gne in iny face; I exclaimed, " «/i jwu (Vc.au nil voiia ptitlt;" he gave mo some, but it tuHtod suit, and increased my drcndAil sicknosH. Now and then I tliought I heard a voico reseinhiing my sis- tor's ; Hhe, poor thing, wuh terribly ill ; but for the whole w«)rld'H pt be put on shore." They were actually beginning to lay on their oars. "Well! well! you shall not come off we have your number, we'll find you." " Yes, that we will," said the man at the rudder. I was terrified. " My good men," I courageously said, " you will be paid." They said no more. Wc were now run upon the shingle, and men who there stood in readiness, carried us through the water. I was landed among tlie first, and turned round to see papa and my sister follow in turn. " Thank God ! " our dear papa said. We .sat down on tho side of a boat wliich lay on the beach, lo wait for a vehicle to convey us away, for it continued raining heavily, and the streets were too muddy for walking, /Vt last a carriage took us up, and while papa went to the custom-house, we stopped at an hotel next door to it, ap- parently of a second grade, and bespoke a cup of tea, before proceeding if h 232 to the railway terminus. Dover, even when seen through the rain, looked clean and splendid after miserable Calais ; on this occasion we felt grateful for the services rendered by the stout Calais shoes. Papa joined us^ we forced down some excellent tea, and fancied our- selves refreshed by it. A fresh hack carriage conveyed us to the ter- minus. Ah elderly gentleman got into the same seat with as on arriving at the train. Papa was complaining of having been ill-treated, he had waited two hours before the paquehot started — he had expected a pas- sage of little more than two hours, and had been exactly four ; h». WuS convinced i\iQ paquebot might have started two hours earlier; it was some trick to benefit the hotels. The elderly gentleman was of the same opinion. " He knew, for certain, that this very night no less than sixty families were detained unwillingly at Dover. For his part, he was worse off than papa, he was come from Ostend, and his baggage, con- sisting, indeed, merely of a small portmanteau, had been, through negli- gence, left behind. But have you got your baggage, sir? " he said ti papa. " Yes sir, I have." *' Then, indeed you are lucky, landed as you have been, in such weather." This conversation was interrupted by the entrance of «i fashionable-looking young man. Our third gentleman commenced a fresh subject of complaint. Just arrived from London by the "Eclipse," all his baggage had been left behind, he was obliged to return to London himself for it. Papa said, " Sir, it will be forwarded to you." " No," he said, " I shall not trust to that, I intend, — indeed am now on my way to see about it myself. I am going up the Rhine." " Well, here is something I don't understand," said tlie Ostend gentleman ; " here's a party just arrived from Calais, landed in boats, and with their baggage all safe ; and here am I from Ostend, and you from London, who h;.ve both met with this strange neglect." The words, " party just landed from Calais," created at once an alteration in the iushionable gentleman's looks towards us. He considered us with much respect, for our miserably drenched appearance was now in our favour. The train, meanwhile, proceeded through tunnel ai'ter tunnel ; we seemed to have been landed from the bark of old Charon, at once into the shades of the infernal regions. The train rocked, and was agitated with a similar motion to that we had noticed in the French trains. I commenced thinking on the stranae delight men take in excluding themselves from the blessed light of day, and glorious orb of nature. " This is Weston Hanger," some one said. " Oh ! thank God ! " I sighed to myself, in stepping out, to wait half an hour at this new terminus, before another hack took us up. In 1846 my father succeeded to a battalion with the rank of Colonel Commandant. 233 rain, Colonel SECTION XIX. Grove Houso. — Clarence Villa. — Melancholy Events.— Conclusion. — Letters. In 1846, his daughter C.\roline, Mrs. Dunscomb, with four children, returned from Canada, to pay her family a twelvemonth's visit. She arrived in June; and, for her gratification, papa accompanied her to London, and then to Brighton, where, in the fashionable month of November, he hired apartments for a fortnight. His two sisters, also, Mrs. Charles Day, and Maria Durnford, came to see him at Clarence Villa. Mrs. Davis, the remaining sister, had the misfortune to lose her husband during this winter, on which occasion, my parents, regardless of their delicate health, journeyed to Hythe, to attend his funeral, and support, by their presence, at this trying time, the poor widow. Early in the spring, Mrs. Durnford received the afflicting intelligence of the death of her only sister Elizabeth, the widow of Clement Kirwaii, Esq. ; when my dear parents again made a visit to the house of mourning, and comforted, with ^heir company, the sorrowing daughters. These were, — Eliza, who came over from Paris with her husband, the Count de St. Antoine, and their only son Clifford ; Louisa, the wife of the Rev. Mr. Withers ; Jane, who was married to Mr. Sylvester, a gentleman in the medical profession ; and Eleanor, who afterwards became the wife of Mr. Russell, of Swanscombe. Mrs. KIrwan left, by will, to her sister's three unmarried daughters, handsome legacies. Mrs. Kirwan's lease of the Grove House, at Northfleet, on the banks of the river Thames, being unexpired, papa determined to take it for the r"raainder of the term, having meantime let Clarence Villa, his own residence at Tunbridge Wells, to General Middlemore ; and accordingly his family occupied it until late in the autumn of the following year. It was a melancholy time ; and previous to the departure of the numerous members of my dear departed aunt's family from the Grove House, my father engaged a house for his party, now augmented by that of Mrs, Ounscomb's,at Roshervilie,a distance of two miles from the Grove House. These sad events, and journey's umicrtaken in severe weather, doubtless left injurious eflFects on both my parents' frames ; papa, in particular, from thiis time suffered much from rheumatic gout which seemed increased by proximity to the swamps near the Grove House. George came several times from his quarters in Ireland, as did Mrs. Davis, to Northfleet; Mrs. Dunscomb returned to Canada, while Miss Kirwan continued to reside with us. My parents went into the country together to see their invjilid daughter: on the journey papa was attacked by a bilious disorder, which delayed their return or some time. My mother wrote home thus : '• Saturday, July 3, 1847. " My Dear, — We have been most anxiously waiting to hear tidings from the Grove House, for it is so long since the ' ugly old woman' left you all, that even should nothing have occurred, it would have been a very great pleasure to hear ' all's well,' or to see something on the seal, ill ii W 234 M ).: J- indicative of the same, as that poor cockney young man used to relieve his parents by sending 'Jack's alive.' I now have the pleasure to tell you dear papa has wonderfully recovered. We breakfast between eight and nine o'clock, about twelve off we start, the three last days we have been driven back by the rain. Yesterday we walked half a mile beyond the cross, it was delightful We rested on the steps of the Monument, and then walked on. Pa took his biscuit and only half a glass of wine, but it supported him. I do really believe he longs to see you all. He takes his milk, two eggs, and sometimes a little bit of bacon at breakfast. Does the Knight of the Manor House often come to see you ? and how do all affiiirs go on ? How many times has cousin been to the grand city ? and how many new gowns and new bonnets have come from that place of celebrity ? Tell cousin I enquired. " Pi, no doubt, has recovered ; he was very bad when we first came here. This place has been of more service to him than Leamington, beautiful as it was, and he greatly enjoyed those three lions, and so would you and , and so would the young blue stockings. The person who shewed the castle at Warwick, appeared to me to be the steward. The likeness of the Hon. Mrs. Percy's daughter was exactly like Mrs. Edmund Sewell. There was a painting of the ' Cave of Despair,' by Mrs. P's father, who was celebrated in that art, as was his only son, who, dying in Italy, made Mrs. Percy a great heiress. The father's name was Bertie Greathead. Esq. We are not far from Coventry, so I bought three ribbons for the three maids, however, keep this secret. If you could have seen the strawberries, your mouth would have watered for weeks. How are all our relations about the world ? You had better put down the answers to all my questions, or you or I will either be breathless, or I shall forget to ask again. Dear C looks very thin, but healthy, and the whole house are like a number of Gypsies, which Mrs. N much laments ; even her baby resembles a coloured child. Has Eleanor joined Mrs. Withers yet ? and how are all at Tunbridge ? and in France ? I expect to find American letters, and trust to hear all are well. Your affectionate T. S. " Mother." When on our walk, pa and I sit down to rest ; I either take out the Common Prayer Book, or the Leamington Guide. Pa seems to have formed a vast idea of my aptness, for he declares I know that little book by heart. It gives a good description of the country surrounding the town, which answers all I have heard of it. We hope to be home the beginning of the week. Unless you or some of you have written, it is of no use now — ten to one if we receive it. Papa has just been to see the market, and is now urging me to go with him again. He says nothing can equal the profusion of vegetables, and, in short, of everything else — fish, fowl, and flesh. I counted fourteen or fifteen salmon, with two, three, and four lobsters to each, several turbot, hampers of mackerel, whiting, etc., etc., and sucti quantities of poultry ! fowls by hundreds, ducks the same, and young geese, pears, by hundreds of bushels, and i.\«X;5,s.. ..:.( . 235 asparagus, by thousands of bundles, horses of every description, but I did not see* "four spanki- "j greys," oxen, and cows, and sheep, were numberless, pigs by droves, I even saw young plough ponies. Eatables very cheap. , ,. , , , . . . . • The next autumn found us residing at Clarence Villa, whence my father did not again remove, except on the occasion of George's being ordered to the East Indies, he went with him to town, to speak to Lord Raglan on business connected with his son's regimental promotion. These several departures were sore trials to him ; yet they were borne with the mild Christian resignation that increased and shone more brightly as life drew on, and his strength evidently began to fail. In the long winter evenings, iuama, while engaged at the needle, enjoyed to hear him read aloud and being a member of the excellent Tunbridge Wells Library, or Literary and Historical Society, and also of a Lending Club, he had no want of the newest and best books to select from. In this agreeable way he got through many fine works — Alison and Macaulay's histories being among them. There were portions of the terrible revolution of 1793, which, in reading Alison, agitated him so much he could not proceed with their recital. The reading rooms of this society he visited daily, to read the newspapers, and converse on the current topics. In May, 1849, at an evening party, composed chiefly of ladies, one of the youngest present entertained the party by singing a song, describing a young man after an evening's prolonged merriment, finishing it up by "rowing the girls in the morning." This pleased papa so much that he encored it, and then said it reminded him of what he had heard of the good old days when George the Third visited Plymouth, on which occasion a barge with a crew, composed wholly of women, and also guided by a female coxswain, preceded His Majesty when he \,'ent on the water. He took great delight in attending religious morning meetings, such as were frequently held at Tunbridge ^Xells ; on all occasions when calls on his purse were made, he gave liberally with regard to his moderate means, with pleasure, and gratitude, to the bestower thosje means. When young, he was very fond of the fine English gam- " April 27, 1850. The great affliction witli which it has pleased the Lord to try you and your family, has been a great and sudden shock to us all in this country. Philip has felt most severely the loss of his revered parent, whom to know was to love. * Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord,' and praised be the Lord for the comforting assurance of his holy revelations, that the separation from those we love, by a mortal death, is but short and temporary. The affecting and interesting details of the last moments of our dear father, towards whom, I had an affection and venera- tion not inferior to what I felt for my own parents, I trust will be profit- able to us, that when our time shall come, we too may die the death of the righteous." " March 9, 1850. We were much grieved this morning to rece%e the unexpected and mournful intelligence of your dear husband's death. We had not at all, from the preceding letter, anticipated so sad and speedy a termination to the illness under which ho had been suffering, but sup- posed it to be nothing more than the effects of the variable weather on his weakened frame. But the Lord had disposed it otherwise, and I am firm to believe that his faith and confidence in the one and only Saviour of his people was such, as that he is now enjoying his everlasting presence, and the joys of his kingdom. I am not stoic enough to bid you not to grieve at the departure of the companion of your life and the father of your children, but I pray that grace and strength may be given in pro- portion to your need, and the everlasting arms be under you to bear you up under your severe affliction. In the Lord alone can you find that peace and consolation which the world can neither give nor take away, and which is all we want in such times of sorrow and bereavement. H. D. Sewell." " March 15, 1850. Deeply I feel for you all in the severe trial it has pleased the Lord to lay upon you, and, sincerely I hope you may be sup- ported and strengthened according to your need. Your dear mother has lost a kind husband, and you as kind a parent ; his loss therefore, will be keenly felt by you all. We too, have reason to speak most highly of him, for we ever found him a truly kind friend, and one for whom we had a great regard. " I little thought when we received your last kind letter that his ill- ness would have terminated fatally, especially as you said he was better Q !li li 848 and had boon ordorud ntrcngtlicning thingn ; but the Lurd nppointod it otherwise, and may you bo enabled to Hay ' It is well.' " 1 shall bo thankful to h««r your hoalth hns not boon injured by the effort you intend making on Tuesday. It will doubtless be satisfaction to you to fool, that at least ono of his children was able to follow him to the grave. - CuARiiOTTE Sewell. " I know not how to offer consolation under the loss you have sus- taiiled. I can only iwsuro you of luy own love, for you have been the most affectionate of mothers to me, and my dear departed father has always been the most indulgent of fathers to me. I must often have given him cause for anger, but he never shewed that he was displeased; and one of the last expressions of his that I can remember was, that none of his children had ever caused him an hour's sorrow or uneasiness. I hope my dear mother you will be able to say the same of us. I am sure we shall all strive so to act, that you may bo able to say so, during the time we may have to remain in this world." " April, 1850. It was with the deepest sorrow I hoard of the death of your beloved father, and all I felt on losing my dear parents, makes mc feel your irreparable loss. We must submit humbly to the decrees of God, and if consolation can bo found after such a heavy loss, it is in the idea that my dear uncle is now receiving the reward of his virtues ; for I believe a better man never existed. Eliza de St. Antoine." " C'est aveo la plus profonde douleur que nous apprenons I'irr^parable perte que la famille vient de faire, et nous unissons nos larmes aux votros. Vous perdez un bon p6re, Madame Durnford un bon dpoux, I'armde un galant officier, et nous un bon parent. II regoit en ce moment dans le ciel la recompense de ses vertus. Je me rappelerai toujours aveo (Amo- tion toutes ses bontds et toute sa bienveillance, et ses souvenirs ne s'offa- oeront jamais de mon ooeur. Puissent nos profonds regrets adouoir ramcrtume des v6tres." Hipp. Comte de St. Antoine." " March 13, 1850. Your note only reached me last evening, soon enough certainly for the sad intelligence it conveyed ; you have all been in my thoughts and in my prayers the night past, and truly do I sympa- thise with you, the more especially with you dear mother. He alone can heal the wound who has inflicted it ; and that it is done in love and mercy we know, for He doth all things well. You have much to console you in the certainty of the clear and firm faith and resignation of your excellent parent, who is now released from all care — safely lodged in his Saviour's kingdom, in the mansion prepared for him and all who, like him, have fought the good fight, and is now crowned with a crown of glory that fadeth not away. He did not long remain after his old attached friend, my own ever to be lamented husband, whose friendship m 243 it nnd csteom for hiin was hh Niticore m it wuh pure ; ho often spoko of the pleiifluro ho derived from his intimate Hcquaintunco with your worthy father: nor was my esteem for him any less. His amiable conduct dur- ing our visit in London, in 1840, would have won our hearts' best feel- ings, even if we had not known him before that period. What rich con- solation is yours I — (oh ! how different from thone who arc called uj)on to part with friends, even dear to them, who cannot cherish a hope for their happiness beyond the world they leave behind them.) Dwell on all those meroies, my dear young friend — it will soothe your spirit*, and greatly tend to soften this unexpected bereavement ; and may this solemn call excite mc and all that loved him, to pray and strive to watch, that we may also die the death of the righteous, and bo permitted to join him and all dear ones where tlu- woary are at rest. You do not say how your dear mother is. I am concerned for her ; this great trial so soon after her recent illness I hope will not be too nmch for her strength. I shall not attempt to write her just now, merely because I think I had better not do so ; but do you say all to her for mc that your own kind heart would suggest for a friend as dear to you as my excellent friend is to me. She will require much attention after her recent fatigue, and I know your dear mother is sometimes careless of herself. How nmch I do wish we were near you, that wo might in any way be useful to you. I cannot realize the contents of your note though I have read it so many times, and although I seem to have spent the last night in your family. " Eliza Dunsoomb." The next letter is to Mrs. Durnford, also from Mrs. Dunsoomb, the mother of her son-in-law, and as well as the last recalls a twofold loss. " March, 29, 1850. " My Dear Friend, — I know well that no effort of friendship, however well intended, can do that which He only can do — that has in His divine wisdom seen fit to thus test your faith in the removal of your dear companion ; but, although I know I cannot afford you that consolation my heart would earnestly desire to communicate, yet I can no longer forbear to tell you how truly I do sympathize with you in this sad be- reavement. I have refrained until now, because from experience I was assured nature must be indulged, though grace will triumph, and ere this I trust my dear friend has begun to see mercy, and even love, in the rod which seemed to chasten so severely : you have been called upon to drink deep of the cup of affliction, yet He who ordered even this trial, has promised to sustain you under all your trials, and never to leave nor forsake you. No human being can offer or afford the comfort or conso- lation contained in this rich promise — how sweet in its tender love for us ! how encouraging in our tribulation 1 It does require all your faith and resignation to resign your dearest best friend — your early compa- nion, who has so faithfully and affectionately walked hand in hand with you, through so many years of your pilgrimage here on earth, partaking in all your joys and all your sorrows, — all your house must miss one I i I) B 244 wliow aiuinMo, benevolent, humane (lispositlon, would endear him to all that had the honour and pleasure of hiH acciuaintanco. flow great th« privilcj^o of being al.owed to cousider wuch exeelloiico among our inti- mate friends : I have often reflected on this, and felt thimkful for every good friend I was pern)itted to have: it certainly is am(,iig our giX'atcst earthly blessings ; and then liow sweet the hope to look forward to u re- union hereafter; and this dear fiiond \H for your support, and must recon- cile you t<) a short separation. Many things teach us to see love in this removal for departed ones — hard us tlie blow is for uh to bear, both you and I can do better without them, while wo are to continue in this world of wants and cares, than these beloved ones could have done without us— our dear daughters can lessen niuch of our cares ; but neither son nor daughter, can be to a husband when advanced in years, what a wife is : the desolation is great for our desolate hearts — but how niueh greater would it be for theirs? The nature of our very employments are such, as to have a tendency to these helps ; but this they could not apply : accustomed to depend ejitircly on us for domestic comfort, how sadly would they miss all those little attentions that so much lessen the inlir- mitics of advanced age ! In many things our beloved companions resem- bled each other. In kind feelings to all their fellow creatures, in deep love for their own immediate family and relations, in bearing and for- bearing others' infirmities in the most generous of charitable leelings — , in all this they assimilated : they arc in the enjoyment of that happiness which is promised by our bkissed Saviour to those who fed, clothed, and visited in his name and for his sake. How precious in his sight are his saints ! even while we are here, lie will not inflict one more stroke than is for our good, for ho is a loving God. Those breaks in those links in the charm of our earthly dcliglits, are necessary to wean us from our strong attachments to this life. Where our treasure is, there will our hearts be also. Eliza Dunboomb." " I hope and trust that by this time, my dear friends can view their Heavenly Father's dispensation as it was intended, and that the gain has been so great to their departed dear one, as to reconcile them in some measure to their own irreparable loss. I have a great desire to know on what day the last sad rites were performed : I did not en(iuire when I answered 's letter, but I fixed on a day in my own mind, from circum- stances in which I thought this painful duty would be attended to. How much I value the likeness you so kindly did for me of your departed parent ! I always valued it — and have now u,n affection for it : it has been the companion of all my travels. That it was a likeness was proved by Mr. Daly's knowing it as soon as he saw it at the cottage. I have also a walking stick which the dear good general gave my dear lamented husband in London, in 1840 ; and so much did dear Mr. Dunscomb esteem it for the donor's sake, that he had both their names engraven on it, one as the giver, the other as receiver. I have kept it with great care, intending to send it — to keep for our little Godfrey. The weather seems to be getting a little warmer : I do hope you will prevail on your deai Ilim to all grout thti ; our inti- for every r gvcatcst •d to u ro- ust recon- >vo in this both you this world liout UH— iT son nor a wife is : cli greater I arc such, ot apply: how Hudly I the intir- ons rcsem- !S, in deep y and for- leelings — , happiness othed, and ;ht arc his troke than ic links in from our re will our COMB." view their 10 gain has m in some o know on ire when I om circum- d to. How : departed it: it has ivas proved e. I have r lamented Dunscomb ngraven on great care, ither seems your deal 245 mama to got out as soon as tiio weather will permit lior — the country will soon have muoh to interest and attract with its natural beauties, always dis- playing the wonders of a mighty Creator,— nothing earthly ho well cal- culated to sootlie the spirits and compose the mind. We h)rgot self, in contemplating His glorious works in beauty and usefulness. "Eliza Dunscomb." " March lli, 1850. " My Deaii Jane, — Tho sight of your note yesterday evening, shocked mo inexpressibly, and I liad hardly the courage to break tlio seal, for I saw but too plainly that it was sent to tell tho sad- dest news. Tho first gluTice at your handwriting confirmed my worst fears, and I could not help weeping bitterly wlu^n [ found who the loved one was that had been taken from you. You have indeed been bereaved, but you have tho sweetest and dearest consolation that can be afforded under such circumstances, even the blessed certainty that your dear father has entered into a huppy, a glorious rest, where suffering and sor- row can no more 'reach him. ' Thanks be to God who has given him the victory through Jesus Christ our Lord.' Oh! my dear, in such moments what should wo be? what should we do? without that gracious Saviour, in and through whom alone there is life and hope. May Hebe sensibly present with you all by the power of his Holy Spirit, and com- fort and sustain you in this season of sorrow and trial. To his gracious care I commend you affectionately and earnestly. God is indeed dealing with you just now, but doubt not for a moment that ho only chastens in tender love : not for his pleasure, but for your profit. * Sorrow may en- dure for a night, but joy cometh in the morning.' You are constantly in my thoughts ; and much, very much, do mama and I wish that wo vrere noar you, that we might do the utmost in our power to be of use and assistance to you. She unites with me in tender love and deepest sympathy. She would write to our dear Mrs. Durnford, but she thinks it best not to do so just at present. It was so very kind and considerate of you to write so to me, my dear , but you are always full of thought for others. May our Heavenly Father richly bless and fidli/ comfort you and yours, for Jesus Christ's sake. M. A. B. " If you can, will you let me hear from you in the course of a few days." " May 31, 1850. " A short time after I had written last to you, my dearest on taking up a newspaper wl)*A;h had been some days in the house, without my looking at it, how was I struck by a notice ii. the Obi- tuary I — and how did I regret my untimely letter ! I would have recalled it if I could. I would have written immediately on receiving the melancholy announcement which had so surprised me, if I had felt I could say anything seasonable or soothing. All I could then offer — all W. 246 IV i u I can now say 13, to ask you to accept my affectionate sympathy, believ- ing that I have been much in thought with every member of your bereaved family, and have felt for each and all, deprived of its honoured and beloved Head. My own personal recollections give rise to many a grateful feeling within me, recalling the recent friendliness so very grati- fying to me, which I experienced in England, and which contributod not a little to the enjoyment my London visits aflPorded me. To ' His rest ' we may believo thu Lord has taken him whose loss we deplore, — taken him from x world of grief ind pain : and to iunf .. .st, dear , let us look, trusting to enter tuerein, through the merits of Him who is mighty to save, and wLo v.e humbly hope will hereafter 'reunite us to those who have gone be/ore ' to their ' Eternal Home,' — leaving sorrowing friends behind them- yet not sorrowing as those without hope. E. F." " September, 1850. " Accept my best thanks for your kind attention in forwarding me ' The United Service Magazine,' containing ' Scenes in an Offi- cer's Early Life.' It was with a mixed feeling of pain and melan- choly pleasure I perused the interesting article; following our dear departed through some of his many dangers, with almost breathless dread ; his was, comparatively speaking, a long life of danger and service in a few months. How strong the affectionate filial heart in the tender mentioi; of his parental bereavement ! it was almost as though one heard the sad voice that would utter them : w liat narrow escapes — multiplied upon him without space for rest — so'^etimes for consideration ! yet our dear friend seemed always collected, always so brave. With what grate- ful feelings did we trace, throughout, the love and mercy of a Divine Providence : although I so greatly rejoiced when he was safely landed again on his native shore, I regretted we were at the termination of that which interested us so much. Eliza Dunscomb." '' It was very kind of you to anticipate the wish I had so much at heart — naniiely, to read the interesting narrative contained in the book you sent me. I have often been wishing vo learn in what publication it was to be met with, and had more than once questioned the dear little girls as to where it might be found, being sadly ignorant of most of the periodical publications. I could not from them exactly make out what to ask for, and I felt regret after your departure, that I had not at once made the request of you. However, through your kindness and consideration, I was soon gratified, and upon reading the by far too short account, I was not long in discovering how much I should htvve lost had I not been successful in obtaining it. Much more of it would have been read with interest. S. B. Saint." " Toronto, April 7, 1850. " Mt dear Mother-in-Law, — We received by the last mail the sad, sad intelligence tliat it had pleased Almighty God to re- 247 'y beliov- of your ionoured many a ry grati- utod not Do 'His deplore, wSt, dear I of Him ' reunite -leaving without S. F." 1850. rwarding an Offi- i melan- our dear ireathless id service tie tender ine hoard Multiplied yet our lat grate- i Divine y landed n of that OMB." much at jook you )n it was e girls as »eriodical ask for, uade the ration, I it, I was not been ead with IINT." 1850. ast mail to re- move from this world of trouble our very dear excellent parent. Our loss is hia gain — for he was all goodneas in this life, and will be hdippy in the next. May our all-wise and merciful God strengthen you to bear the burden of your great affliction, is our constant and heartfelt prayer. " When I spoke to Alice and Godfrey Metcalfe of the great loss we had all sustained, they seemed to understand it well, for little Metcalfe ex- claimed with a look, as if his cup of bitterness was full, * Then, dear papa, we have no grandpapas at all now.' Alice wished to know if she should see him in heaven. They have both spoken to me of the sad event since. " It was a great trial for my dear wife : her affectionate attached heart, was plunged in grief. Her love for her dear father was without any othev feeling— and I think she finds consolation in the sad comfort that he had seen her children, and had loved them as well as her, before he left us." April 12, 1850. "Persuaded as I am in my own mind that your late excellent husband has entered into the rest which remaineth for the people of God, still I cannot but condole with you upon the heavy lo8» which it has pleased God you should sustain in his sudden removal from your little happy circle. To a mind piously disposed, such as yours, it must at least be an alleviation of distress when the thought is present, that the wound thus inflicted has been caused by One who makes all things work together for His people's good — by One who will not afflict yv.u beyond what you are able to bear ; and I trust that ere this you will have experienced, in some measure, a fulfilment of those words of the prophet, that " though the Lord hath torn he will heal, though he hath smitten he will bind up." In death itself there is, no doubt, a sting, and that sting is sin ; but you have every reason to rejoice in the know- ledge of the comforting fact, that your late partner could look upon the last enemy as a conquered foe. He has fallen ' asleep in Jesus,' and them that ' sleep in Jesus will God bring with him.' Therefore take comfort from the happy assurance of these comforting words. Edmund W. Sewell." To Mrs. E. W. Sewell. "May I request the favour of you, in writing to Mrs. Durnford, or any of your family at home, to convey to them the expression of my sincera con- dolence upon occasion of the heavy bereavement with which it has pleased God that they should be visited, and of my affectionate respect for the memory of the deceased, whom I always regarded as among ' the excellent of the earth,' and who, I am well persuaded, is now numbered ariong those who have ' died in faith," and await, through Christ, a ' resurrection to immortal glory.' " G. J. Montreal." H l{ ^! My dear mother survived my father three years; she expired June 27, 1853, and the same tomb contains both their remains, in Trinity Church yard, at Tunbridge Wells. T it S48 " My dear Miss Durnpoud and Miss Jane Durnford, — I could not hear of your having affliction without feeling it to be a loss also to myself; but I am most deeply grieved, my dear ladies, for your most painful bereavement. I truly sympathize with you ; but I grieve to^ think how little comfort this can give you. However, I console myself with the thought that you will be led to seek consolation where alone it is to be found, and v:here it can never be sought for in vain. May you be mercifully supported in this trying time. I trust, my dear Miss Durnfords, you will not think me intrusive or troublesome, in thus ventur- ing to address you. I hardly know how to resist writing a few lines, to tell you how much I felt for you in your distress. I will not add more — except to beg of you not to think of writing to me in reply. I would not pain you by asking it ; I do not, in the least, expect you to attempt it ; it would be much too painful a task for you, I well know, at least, at present, or for some time to come. " I cannot but say that I am very anxious to hear how you are in health and spirits also, after the anxieties, watchings, and many painful scenes you must have passed through ; but I shall find some other means of hearing of you. My mother begs me to give her kindest regards; and with my kind love to the two young ladies, my younger friends, I remain, " Yoiirs most sincerely, "S. B. Saint." Groombridge Place, July 4, 1853. This amiable young lady, now no more, was daughter to the heiress of Groombridge Place, which Evelyn, in his diary, mentions as a house built within a moat, in a woody valley ; and was the place where the Duke of Orleans was confined when taken by one Waller, at the battle of Agincourt. Dear Miss Durnford, — Most sincerely do we all sympathize with you and your sister in your present affliction, of which we heard, with real concern, on our return home on Thursday evening. In our absence we had heard so favourable a report of your dear mother, whom you had both been nursing and tending with such filial aflfection, that I can imagine you had also entertained hopes of a recovery ; and the shock, therefore, must have been the greater to you. But the' dear sufferer, now no longer such, but, as we confidently hope, in rest and peace, would bid you not to mourn for her, but to anticipate that future reunion, the hope of which is graciously given to console us under our sad bereave- ments and trials : our merciful and loving Saviour, who has himself so deeply drunk the cup of human woe, is ever a present help in time of trouble, and such he will prove to you. I am truly sorry to find that your health, and that of your sister has failed so much, but I hope for a better account. Can I, or my daughters, be of the least service to you in any way ? It would give us much pleasure, if we could be of any use in lessening your fatigue and anxiety. Do not trouble yourself to send 249 RD, — I be a loss for your I grieve le myself alone it May you jar Miss 3 ventur- lines, to I more — I would t attempt at least, in health ul scenes means of rds; and I remain, ilNT." ciress of se built )uke of incourt. Iiizc with d, with absence you had I can shock, sufferer, e, would ion, the )ereaye- mself so time of ind that lope for c to you any use to send more than a verbal reply to this. My daughters unit ' 'and, sympa- thizing regards to you both, with, Yours truly, Charlotte Harrison." 9 Calverloy Par?de. The dear old lady, who wrce this affectionate note, was the near neighbour of her whose loss she deplored, and did . ot long survive her. Like my mother, she was remarkable for her beauty. " 27, Grove St., Leamington, July 5, 1853. " I do sympathize with you in this great loss. We know we are all in the hands of a merciful and loving Father, who hath promised to comfort all those who seek Him, when heavy laden. I know your trust is in Him ; may He, my dear friends^ support you in all this, and in every sorrow. You have much to comfort you in this sad bereavement — oh ! how much more than maay who are called upon to part with a parent, and who must mourn with very little hope. Oh, how different is your case ! feeling, as you must, this change is for your good parent's very great gain — that she is called to receive her reward. She has left but few behind that can equal her in many things : it can be truly said of your inestimable mother, '' she has faithfully served her generation." " There certainly would be great comfort in all trials, if we could but feel that all things are under His control, who never willingly afflicts His people ; and that, in all our trials and disappointments, there is much mercy and love ! I am, myself, striving to attain to this very desirable and exalted realization, in my own trial, which has been very great, and with very aggravated circumstances, which, in your affliction, you have been spared. I am certain you have had great anxiety and much fatigue, and I fear you have no dear friend to remind you of yourselves, or to watch your needs just now. Oh ! that we were near you in this trying time, when real friends are so much required ! I have found this blessing in my need, in our dear friends, the Tuckers, who, like the good Sama- ritan, pour tho oil into the wounded heart; and, from bitter experience, know how to pity and how to soothe. Tf we can, at this distance, be of any service to you, do, my dear friends, command us. There is no one thing in our affliction so assuasive, as to endeavour to lessen the sorrows or difficulties of others ! The time has been when I should have hastened to you ; bui that time has passed, and I can only now pray for you and sympathize with you ; and this I do fervently and sincerely. "Eliza DuNscoMB." " Headcorn Vicarage, July 4, 1853. '* Mt Dear Miss J. Durnford, — Your sad letter of last Saturday, received this morning, has given us quite a shock. We had seen nothing of the melancholy event in the newspapers, and had hoped, from not hearing further from you, that your dear mother was getting over her previous severe attack, and had the prospect of some years more of this i"' X-* '.'■'T'.'..g rsassm 250 ' I 'If I lis life before her. But it has pleased the Lord otherwise, in his love and wisdom ; and it is among His other mercies that she has been taken away without pain and suffering. What a glorious change it is to the believer in Christ ! At one moment perplexed with the cares and trou- bles of life, cast down, though not forsaken ; at the next, wearing the garments of salvation, attended by those who are * ministering angels, sent forth to minister to the heirs of salvation,' placed at the right hand of the Father, comely in the comeliness of Jesus, ' accepted in the Beloved,' and made one with Him in glory, and honour, and immortality t While we deeply mourn over the bereavement of the living who remain, we cannot mourn as those who have no hope, over those who fall asleep in Jesua. ** It will be a satisfaction to me, though a sad one, to pay the last tri- bute of respect to your dear departed mother, for whom I ever enter- tained the highest esteem and respect, and thank you for giving me the opportunity to do so. "My dear wife joins with me in the deepest sympathy for you all. May the Lord keep and guide you, and give you the blessing of His spiritual riches and grace, in and through Jesus Christ, our Lord. Henry D. Sewell." " Mornington Koad, Regent's Park, July 1. " My Dear Jane, — I was exceedingly shocked last evening to see in the paper the death of your excellent mother. Believe me, my dear Jane, I most truly sympathize with you and your sisters in your sad be- reavement, having myself experienced the same bitter trial ; and you, like myself, are left without brothers ir. this country to assist you, and with only your sister to share your sorrow. May God support you and com- fort you. I should like to have, seen your dear mother once more. I have never forgotten her kindness to me when I was in bad health, and when I was in sorrow for the sudden death of my eldest brother. " Yours very affectionately, Laura Burton." " Gloucester-place, Portman-square, July 8, 1853. " My Dear Jane, — You have been much in my thoughts, my dear friends, since I heard of your sad bereavement, and you have my heart- felt sympathy on the occasion. We cannot grieve for your dear mother, as she is now blessed and happy with her Saviour, free from pain and care ; but the void that must be in your hearts must be sad, and you must grieve for the loss of such a mother and friend as she has been. May God bless you, and comfort and direct you in your future trials. Think of me with affection, and believe that nothing can be sweeter to me than to be of use to the daughters of so sweet and much valued a friend, independent of my regard for you. " Ever your attached friend, Mary Brooking." 251 " For the last six weeks I Lave been very anxious that my pen should express to you the dt ep sympathy and interest I felt for you and your sister, as I was prevented seeing you before I left Tunbridge Wells, having left home earlier than usual, and with inconvenient suddenness, too early after the period of your sad calamity to admit of my seeing you when I called at your door to inquire for your sorrowing party, and then I grieved to find that you and your sister were both physically as well as mentally suffering ; and no wonder, after the painful scenes you had been called on to go through, and the severing of one of the dearest and closest ties of nature. Believe me, dear Miss Jane, few of your friends sympathize and feel more truly for you than I do, and greatly interested shall I feel in hearing from you, whenever you feel disposed to give me some intelligence of your sister and yourself; and sincerely do I hope that you will be able to tell me that time has already begun its friendly oflSce of smoothing the keen edge of sorrow, and that Miss Durn- ford's and your health is beginning to recover its usual tone. Deep and heavy must indeed be your sorrow, but you have the blessed support of the Christian's hope; may that sustain and strengthen you both. In your departed parent I feel I have lost a kind and partial friend, one for whom I, in common with all who had the pleasure of her acquaintance, had much esteem ; still it is indeed satisfactory to recall that our loss is her gain. Your dear young folks, I apprehend, must have been suffer- ing, in common with yourselves ; but, at their age, tears are soon wiped away, though doubtless, through life, they will recall the memory of their sainted grandmother with that grateful veneration her maternal kindness and love claimed from them. Pray offer my kindest regards to your Bister and nieces ; and, with every good wish, believe me, my dear Misa Jane, affectionately yours, Maria Whitblockk. " Foston Rectory, August 13." V n r'i B 252 SECTION XX. DURNFORD PEDIGREE. When my father turned his attention to the claims of the heirs of Thomas Durnford, prior to proceeding further it became necessary to obtain the baptismal registry of each ; in procuring these, he had some trouble, attended with considerable expense, but he regarded neither, for the inquiry was full of interest to him. lie says in his " Autobiog- raphy," I have traced my ancestry back to 1590, and probably he would have carried the searoh much farther, but that it was attended with expense. The essential result of his labours is subjoined. The Doomsday Book mentions, as then existing in the three adjoining parishes of Sarisburie ; now Stratford, Darneford, now Durnford ; and of Ambresbury, no less than 17 mills." — Duke's II. of J. II. " Roger de Derneford, in 12 of Henry II., held the fifth part of a knight's fee in the county of Wilts, of Patrick, Earl of Salisbury." — Liber niger Scaccarig, p