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FuMhcw, PllnUr. ■ -^ f / A\ f li .•*5 ■ Kf $ I I 1\ * % /. / A /. //»^^^m ^^•. THE *%-• I^k /f -21 "l^ '■^- 1 l^f Sf^Sft^SS ^M3B^Sv -^ AND INDEX OF ROUTES AND PLACES. Budson Rivtr, 3 to 42. Forts Lee and Washington, 9. Palisades^ 10. Yonkers, 11. Tappan,Nyack, Erie Rail-road, W.Irvinfr, 13. Sing> sing, Croton River, 14. Vredidecker Hook and Mountain Lake, Ha- verstraw Bay, 15. Steny Point and Liglit House, Ver{rianck's Point, 18. Dunderberg Mountain, Fort Clinton^ Entrance of the Highlands, 16 ttf 17. Anthony's Nose, 18. Buttermilk Falls and Sugar Loaf Hill, 19. Fort Putnam, 20. West Point, 21. Scenery, Cold Spring, 22. Foan- ' dry, 23. Bull, Break Neck, and Butter Hill, 23, 24. PoUopell Island, Cornwall, Canterbury, New Windsor, 25> Newburgh, 26. Low Point* Hamburgh, Hampton, Jew's Creek, Barn^at, 27. Poughkeopeie, 88. Hyde Park, 29. Crum Elbow, Esopus, Walkiil River, Rondout Kill, ! Delaware and Hudson Canal, Eddy ville, 30. Kingston, Rhinebeck, 31 . Red Hook, Glasgow, Esopns Creek, Saugerties,32. Livingston Manor, Bristol, 33. Catskill, Pine Orchard, Ascent to Mountain House, the Falls, Lakes, Clove Road scenery, &c. 34 to 39. Mount Merino, Hud> ion, Athens, 40, Kinderhook to Albany, 42. Schenectady, 46. Utiea and Sehewectadf Ruil-road, and Scentry of ih» Mohatek Rivtr, : 47 to 52. Amsterdam, 47. Cauf^hnawaga, Fonda, None, Palatine Bridge, 48. East Canada Creek, Fort Plain, Fall Hill, Little Falje, 49 to 50. Long Level, Gulf Bridge, German Flats, Herkimer, 51. Utica, Celerity of traveling, 52. Salmoa River Falls, Trenton Falls, 53 to 56. Stage-rouU$ from Utica, south and west, 56 to 69, and 85 to 123. Utica to Buffalo, 56. New Hartford, 57. Clinton, Oneida Castle, Cazenovia, r: &c. 58. Manlius, Onondaga, 59. Marcellus, Skaneateles, 60. Auburn ' and State Prison, 61. Aurelius, Ithaca, 62. Seneca Falls, 63. Wa- " terloo, Geneva, 64. Canandaigua, 65. Rochester, 66. Tonnawanta < Rail-road, 66. Bloomfield, Lima, Avons, 67. Caledonia, Le Roy, Ba- »T / CONTENTS. tavia,68. Buffalo, 69 to 72. Grand Island, Whitehaven, 73.. Black Rock to Niagara, 74. Niagara Falls, 74 to 83. Erie Canal, Albany to Lake Erie, 82 to 118. West Troy, Uuited State» Arsenal, 87. Cahoes Falls, Aqueducts, Wat HoixGap, 88. Union Col- lege, 89. Schenectady, 90. Schoharie Creek, 91. Canajoharie, 92.. Rail-road, Otsquaga, Minden, 93. Little Falls, 94 to 96. Walfrift, Frank- fort, Long Level, 94. Utica and Vicinity, 97 to 98. Oneida Lake, 98. Canal, Whitestown, 99. Sauquoit Creek, Rome, Verona, Sulphur Springs, 100. Canastota, Ciiitteningo, 101. Kirkville, Orville, Lodi^ Syracuse, 101 to 105. Bclli6ie, Oti»co Creek, Amber, Jordan, Cros* Lake, Elbridge, 106. Weed's Basin, Port Byron, Owusco Creek, Mon-* tezunia, Cayuga Outlet, Clyde, 107. Lock Berlin, Outlet of Canandai* gua Lake, Clyde River, Mud Creek. Lyons, 108. Alloway, Palmyra,, Fullam's Basin, Great Embankment, Irondequoit, Pittsford, Geaessee Long Level, 109. Rochester, 110. Falls of the Genessee, 111. Hoi- ley Embanknmnt, Ridge-road, King's, Webber's,. Kilborn's, and Spen** cer's Basin^ Parma, Brockway, Sandy Creek, North Murriy, Scioy Smith and Gaines' Basin and Village, 112. Otter Creek, Oak Orchard and Aqueduct, Albion, 113. Medina, Eagle Harbor, Barre, Knowles- ville, Shelby's and Servos' Basin, Middleport, Gosport, Johnson's v^j. Creek and Embankment, Eighteen Mile Creek and Embankment, Royalton, Grand Ravine and Reservoir, 114. Lockport and Envi-' rons, 115 to IIG. Deep cutting, Tonnawanta Creek, Pendleton, Elli- eott's Creek, Black Rock Harbor and Mole, 117. Canal Table, 119 to* 123^. Expenses, &c. Northern Route from Albany to the Springs, Lakes George and Cham>- plain, Montreal and Quebec, 123 to 202. Troy, 124. Lansingburgh, 126. Waterford, Rensselaer and Saratoga Rail-road, 127. Ballstonf Springs, and small Lakes, 128. Saratoga Springs and Lake, 129 to 133. , Road to Sundy Hill, Glenn's Falls, 133*. Sacondaga, Lake Pleasant,. ^ Long Lakes, 134, Stillwater, Benius' Heights, 135. Schuylerviller • Battenkill and Falls, Fort Miller, Fort Edward, Great Dam, Baker's ; Falls, 136. Sandy Hill, Glenn's Falls, 137. Jessup's and Hadley's ■■ Falls, 138. Road to Lake George, 139. Excursion on the Lake, and events of the French and other wars, 139 to 148. Ticonderoga, 149, Monnt Independence, J 50. Sandy Hill to Whitehall, 151 to 152. White- hall and Vicinity, 152 to 154. Excursion on Lake Champlain and the St. Latorenee to Montreal and Quebec, 154 to 202. Outlet of Lake George, Ticonderoga, 155. Crowu J?' Point, 156. Visit to the Alps of New-York, and sources of the Hudson lard Au Sable, 157 to 164, Port Henry, 157. East and West Bfbriah,^ 158 .«' It ",< M^iPPDPiPiMP CONTKNTS. % Lake SaBford, Labradorite, 158. Source of the Hudson, 160. Higk Peak, Great Trap Dyke, 161. Mount M'lntyrc, 162. Notcli, Lake Henderson, Bald Peak, 163. Cedar Point, Westport, Basin Harbor, 164. Elizabeth, Giant of the Valley, Rover's Hill, Valley Forge, En- sex, Split Rock, Whit ^ce Mountain, 165. Burlington, Pert Kent, Port Douglas, Koeseville, 166. Clintonvillo, Sweden, Birmingham, Adgate's Falls, 167. Peru, Battle on Lake Champlain, 16d to 16ik Plattsburgh, North and South Hero Islands, 169. Chazy, Champlain, Perrysville, Corbeau, Rouse's Point, Wind Mill Point, Odletowu, Isle aux Noix and Fort, River Sorel, 170. St. John's, Chaniblee to Longueil, 171. Montreal and vicinity, 173 to 176. On the St. Law- rence, 176 to 179. Quebec and environs, ISO to 202. Excurtion in New England up the falley of the Connecticut River to ' he White Mountains, 202 to 244. New Haven, Yale College, 204 to 209. Rail-road to Hartford, 210 to 214. Meriden, 212. Berlin, Newington, 213. Hartford and vicinity, 214 to 216. East Hartford, 217. Wiad- sor, 219. East Windsor, 220. Thoropsonville, Shakers, Suffleld, 221. West Springfield, 223. South Hadley, 224. Northampton and vici- nity, 225 to 228. Hatfield, Whateley, Amherst, 229. Deerfield, 230. Greenfield, Bernardston, Gill Falls, 231. Northfield, Hinsdale, Bat- , tie, &c.'232. Chesterfield, Westmoreland, Walpolc, Bellow's Falls and Farm, 233. Brattleborough, 234. Charlestown, Ox Bow, Wethersfield, Ascutney, Windsor, 235. Waterqueechee, 236. Green Mountains, Vermont, 237. Plainfield, Lebanon, Dartmouth College, Haverhillf Lyme, Orford, Piermont, 238. Bath, Ammanoosuck River, 2.39. Fran- conia, Lancaster, 240. Bethlehem, Notch of White Mountains, 241 to 244. Conway, Fry burgh, Hiram, Gorham, Falmouth, Portland, 244» Boston and »nvirons,2i5to2Q\. Middlesex Canal, 251. South and East Boston, 257. Cemetery at Mount Auburn, 258. Cambridge, Port, East Cambridge, Harvard College, 259. Charleston and environs. Bunker I Hill, Navy Yard, &c. 259 to 261. Excursion to Nahant, 261 to 263. Salem, Marblehead, Beverly, 263 to 264. Lynn, Andover and Haver" hill Rail-road, 264. Merrimac River, 265. ^' f-,'; . ■; , '. '- '- f Boston to Lowell, by Rail-road, 265 to 267. Nashua, Concord, Centre Harbor, 207. Lake Winnipisiogee, 268. Boston to Worcester, by Rail-road, 271 to 274. Newton, Natick, Fram-ng- ham, Southboro', 272. Hopkington, Mine Spring, Grafton, Leicester, Spencer, BrookfielJ,Western, Palmer, Springfield, 273. West Spring- field, Westfield, Russell, Blanford, Becket, Dalton, Pittsfield, West Stockbridge, Hudson, 274. , , .v VI CORTCNTt. Eastern Coa$t-rouU from BoHon, Andover, 974. Bradford, NaverhHT^ Cuials on Merrimack, Exeter, 276. Rawley, Newbiiryport, 977. Sa- lisbury, Amosbury, Portsmoutit, 278. Kittery, Yoric, Well», Kenne- bunlK, 279. Saco, Pepperelborougli, Biddeford, Portland, 380. Au- gusta, 281. Tliotnaston, Castine, Belfast, Bangor, 283. Mountaitu and Lakes in New Hampsliire and Maine, 283 to 285. Ifew rjute to Quebec, 285 to 287. St. John's, New Brunswick, and ac«- nery, 288to290. Scentry and Excurnonaromtd the Bay ofFundy, SM to 302. Banishment of the Acadians, 303 to 305. Tides in B^y ofFundy, 305 to 307. Halifax and environs, 307 to 309. / Ride along shore— ffete-Tork to Newport and Cape Cod, 309 to 35f. New-York to Harlem, 309 to aiO. West Chester, East Chester, New Rochelle, Mamaronock, Rye, Saw Pitts, Greenwich, Horse Neck, 311. Stamford, Darien, 312. Norwalk, 313. Souihport, Fairfield, 314. Greenfield, 315. Black Rock, Bridgeport, Rail-road to New Milford,. 316. Stratford, Milford, 317. Orange, West Haven, 319. East Haven, 320. Branford, Guilford, 331. Sachem's Head, Great Plains, Madi- son, 322. Killingworth, Westbrook, Saybrook, 323. (Route up the river to Middletown and Hartford, 335 to 336.) Lyme, Waterford, New London and vicinify 337 to 338. Portersville, Lowe, Mystic, 329. Slonington and Battle, WiO to 331. Paucatuck River, Narragansett Indians and Battle, 333 to 333. Bay, Newport and environs, 333 to 3.37. Bishop Berkley, Providence, 338. Rail-road to Boston, 339. Attleborough, Rev. A. Weld, 340. Foxborough, Wrentham, Canton, Cohasset. 341. Milton, Dedbam, Quincy, Dorchester, Roxbury, Taun- ton, Bridgtiwater, &c. 343. Raynham, Fall River, 344. Dighton, Westport, Dartmouth, New Bedford, Fairhaven, 345. Sandwich^ 346. Barnstable, Brewster, Chatham, Dennis, Falmouth, Yarmouth, Plea- sant Bay, 347. Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, Traro, Provincetown, Race Point, 348 to 349; back to Plymouth, 350 ; thence to Boston, 351. 1^:%.;: Sotttliern Routes* n-.. New-York to Philadelphia, 353 to 358. 1st route by steam-boat and rail- road, via Amboy and Bordentown. 3d do. by rail-road from city to eity, via Powles Hook, Newark, Elizabethtowo, New Brunswick^ Prinveton^ and Trenton. .>'v;^... :,-- 1 i' It CONTENTt. Vii Philadelphia and invirons, 358 to 364. Rail-road, Philadelphia to Reading, and thence to the Coal Minee in Schuylkill Couuty. ..>^c;.■,■'^: ■' ";■'. ( Schuylkill Navigation and Canal, 367. , .. > , v , , / ■ . « v*i v.^ Rail-road, Philadelphia to Ohamberthurgh, 367 to 368. Penneylvania Rail-road and Canal, Philadelphia to Pitttburyh, on the Ohio River, 360 to 378. • . ,' ,^ T\i9 Philadelphia and Columbia RaiUroad,370 to 374, in the Valley of Cheater, Delaware, and Montgomery, to Lancaster and Columbia. ■■. Canal along the Susquehannah, 374 to 376, passing Marietta, Bainbridge, Falmouth, Middletown, Swatara Creek, the Union Canal, 374. Har- risburgh, 375. Duncan's Island, 376. Juniata River, Newport, Lower Aqueduct, Thompsontown, Mexico, Mifflintown, Lewistown, Waynes- burgh Aqueduct, Hamiltonville, Aughweek Falls, Hnntingtun, Peters- burg, Alexandria, Williamsburg, Franktown, Hallidaysburg, o76. Alleghany Portage Rail-road, 377 to 378. Pennsylvania Canal, Western division, 378 ; following the Kiskimine- tas, Conemaugh, and Alleghany, via Johnstown, Laurel Hill, Fairfield, Lockport, Chesnut Hill, Blairsville, Saltzburg, Salt Works, Warren- town, Leechburg, Aqueduct over the Alleghany, Freeport, Logan's Ferry, Pine Creek, Aqueduct, Pittsburgh, 378. Table of Distances and Elevations on thti aboyotoutea, 310. '' Routes from Pittsburgh down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans, with the distances and prices, 380. Route from St. Louis up the Mississippi to St. Anthony^s Falls, 381. Return route, Pittsburgh to Philadelphia, 382 to 384. . . Schuylkill Coal Region, 385 to 395. Easton, Mauch Chunk and Lehigh, Bethlehem, Nazareth, 389 to 393. Valley of Wyoming and Lackawanna, Carbondale, Laekawaxen and Delaware Cantd, 393to 395. Morris Canal, 395 to 396. Great Falls in Genessee, 396 to 397. — Routes from Philadelphia to Baltimore, 398 to 402, via New Castle, and rail-road and steam-boat. *^' ^ •^^ mmm m vm CONTENTS. If I'- ll ' . Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, 399. Breakwater, 400. Vf^;; Philadelphia^ Wilminrton, and Havre de Grace Rail-road, 4C1 to 403. Steam-boat route, Baltimore to Norfolk. Do. do. Washington to do. 403. Baltimore and environs, 403 to 406. "' • • "^ « «■ i^"*l.a^' Rail-road from Baltimore to York, iOl. • ' S'*:'!^ ^ :. Do. do. do. t^ JVashinffton, i08. Washington and environs, 408 to 410. * . ^ rSii ;.; ,^ .«.. t' Rail-road, Baltimore to Annapolis 410 to 411 . ,;, , ' . , , /^ ■-,_ '.f, ; Vicinity of Baltimore, Falls, Water-powek-,&c. 412 to 413. ■; Grand Route, Baltimore to Harper^s Ferry and Winchester, Virginia, and through the State to the Sulphur Springs and the mountain re- gions o( the Carolinas, Tennessee, and Georgia, 413 to 423. Rail-road, Baltimore to Frederick, and Macadamized road to Cumber- land, and the Grand National Road to Wheeling on the Ohio River, 422 to 429. Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, 429. Main Southern Rail-road route from Baltimore or Washington, through Virginia and the Carolinas, Georgia, and Alabama, to Montgomery, Pensacola, Mobile, and New Orleans, 429 to 454. Time required and expenses, 430. Comparison of routes, Louisa, &c. Central route to the Virginia Springs, 431. Fredericksburgh, Richmond, 432. South- ern route to the Virginia Springs, 433. Lynchburg, 434. Richmond to Petersburgh and the Roanoke, near Weldon and Halifax, 435. Across North Carolina to Wilmington, 436. To Charleston, 437. Routes, Rail-road from Charleston to Cincinnati, 446 to 448. Augusta and Hamburgh, 449 to 450. Routes and Springs ic (reorgia. Hitoasse Rail-road, and grand mountain thoroughfare, Tennessee, 450 to 451. Rail-road from Savannah to Macon, 451 to 452. Savannah. Dismal Swamp, Virginia and North Carolina, 439 to 443. ,» Upper Rail-road in North Carolina, 443 to 444. Raleigh, Fayetteville. Old stage-route from Norfolk to Charleston, 441 to 446, ^> Columbia, South Carolina, 445. ■ ', t; ri , • \ Rail-roads in Alabama, 453, and ia Georgia, 466 to 468 Columiut Macon. \\ ;/ mmmmmm i CONTENTS. h tfea Orleans, 455. Routes from 457 to 458. JlfofrtVe, 458 to 459. Blakely to Pensacola, 460. Pensacola, 460 to iQ2. Routes from, 463. ~ '■- Coosa and Pleasant Valleys, Alabama, 463. Montgomery, 464. Route by steam-boal down the Alabama to Mobile, 464 to 465. Land route, Montgomery to Augusta, 466 to 470. Columbus, Cbattaboo>* cbe, 467. Thomaston, 469. Pine Mountains, Miller's Bend, Forsythe.' Milledgeville, 470. Indian Springs. Scenery and Natural Curiosities in Virginia, theCarolinas, Georgia, and East Tennessee, 471 to 488. Cumberland and Look-out Mountain, 472; Nicojack Cave, 473. PiJot and Sawrata Mountain, 474 to 475. Tory House, 476. Pinnacles of the Dan, Table, Grandfather, Grandmother^ Roan, and Black Mountains, Heights, &c. 476 to 478. Saluda Mountain^ 478. Scenery of tlie French Broad River, 479. Painted Rock, Cur- rohee Mount, Clarkesville, Naucoochy Valley, Coweta Falls, 481. Great Stone or Rock Mountain in De Kalb County, Georgia, 481 to 483« Routes, Rock Bridge. Tockoa and Tallulak Falls, Georgia, 483, to 485. Caribee Mount, Che- rokee country, 4S6 to 488. New Rail-road up the Housatonick from Bridgeport to New Milford and West Stockbridgt. Mineralogical Tour, New Haven to Litchfield, Woodbury, &c. 489 ta 499. Rail-road, Stockbridge to Hudson, 500. Rail-road, Norwich to Worctster, 500 to 506. Yantic Falls, Norwich, Jewett*8 City, Packersvilie, Plainficld, Brooklyn, Killingly, Factories^ Pleasant Valley, Dayville, Danieli^onville, Mashapaiig Lake, 504. Ma- shentuck Hill, Pomfrelville, Thompson, Montville, New Boston, Lei- cester, Worcester, 506. [The matter for a volume of this size, devoted to the Western Statofy> is in forwardness.] mum mmmmmm '"••mmmim ■ ■#^ :.-,v^'?.'-^v,.t.:,!>'%^,y4*. :«ir ^it,'y;Xi^r•;;,' » ■;%i .:.:,-.^...^ v-t,.;-..j,.r,'^ ;, ^.S,J'p.5:^'i;'4. *^: si mm ^ >M' V '.■t '"- -1».^. t ^;^ '! (I i ■■ f-i [3 ■ // ;--'yf'%.m,^ •':" i« ,. , " TJIE ,M" ,;^' Wm^^ AMEIflCAN TOURIST. (A- (r-J [-1 *t'iie 3lw.tfii*oM Hj^^tir. The sources of ibis river m'<^ }>i 44*-'' '^- V%lij»«l#-.. ifi ifc *?- t^- of lakes in Ess^x i.ui H^:*??i^« :!''MJ*'»>t^^ rM; HT^^t- '"**«?« to the ocean, from which circumstpnoe it de- ■ Ji^rial, but incorrect appellation of ihe Notili .i:"':5:^jE'* lints of view, it may be oonsidered one of \h.e '■'^^*^.' 'Uveams in the world for its extent, end onh , '■^f^yi ..>■ J*i*0T in usefulnesfj Ui the Ohio and Misf^isstippi ' ^M^- Jpi''^"'%:^t*ui So lisem ib* ^r<^*m'-k.ai liavi^auon, M'i'¥ ^./it^r-' ■ mii^-hj.-_:,:% ■ ■ ...-?; ^1 ■¥s^: iiS i^ «fr '..■•' ■■ - .-. wr m. *v ii^ 8P; li?** li t. m> m »!■;.■■ (»■ -^m. fes, »'. IW^ ■ i5* ».- t^n; fc> fe '^ ,Y^ >^ JKii. %{>. ■ W." ^■;. m 4- %^ ■Put:- ^€'' M :«!" 'if. f .-^s :' ■'■■■<■, . THE NORTH AMERICAN TOURIST. i ,4Ji, The Hudson River. The sources of this river are in 44° N. latitude, in a se- ries of lakes in Essex and Hamilton counties, that lie in the mountainous and unfrequented region between Lake Champlain, the Mohawk River, St. Lawrence River, and Lake Ontario. The main, or north branch, rises 30 miles N. W. from Crown Point; the Sacondaga, or west branch, rises 30 to 40 miles W. of Lake George, and both branches unite on the eastern side of Saratoga county, in the town of Hadley, near the celebrated falls of that name. From thence, the course is southerly for a few miles, and then east, to Glenn's Falls, beyond which it turns south, and pursues a course varying but little from N. to S. nearly all the distance to the ocean, from which circumstance it de- rives its usual, but incorrect appellation of the North River. In many points of view, it may be considered one of the most important streams in the world for its extent, and only, if at all, inferior in usefulness to the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, but superior to them for steam-boat navigation, viz iQ the most remarkable circumstance, and exclusively cha mmmm w^m 4 ; Httdi»n River* racteristic of the Hudson River from every other stream in this country — its penetrating through the chain of high- lands, and being affected by the tides as far as Troy, 160 miles north, thus carrying the oceanic influence far into the interior, and yielding the greatest facilities to com- merce. The depth of water is sufficient for ship navigation as far as Hudson ; and beyond that, for sloops and steam- boats to Albany and Troy. It is closed by ice from the lOth or 20th of December to about the 10th of March, with occasional exceptions ; but the harbor and bay of New- York are always open, so that vessels can enter and depart at any period of the winter, while the harbors of Boston, Phila- delphia, and Baltimore, are entirely closed for weeks. This is one of the principal causes of the preference givea to New- York, as a sea-p'^rt, beyond any other on this coast, except Newport. Ship, with a fair wind and tide, can get to sea in one hour and thirty minutes after leaving the wharf; the distance from the city by ship channel to Sandy Hook light-house being only 18 miles. The width of the river for 25 miles N. from New- York, is about one mile, bounded on the west by precipices of trap or green ston , from 200, and rising gradually to 500 feet in height. Beyond these, there is an expansion of the river to the width of 4 miles, called Tappan and Haverstraw bays, with the mountains on the western shore rising boldly to 700 feet in height. The traveler then enters into the romantic region of the highlands, where the river is contracted into narrower limits, but is of greater depth, and the mountains rise on both sides with abruptness from nine to sixteen hundred feet in height. At West Point, the river turns suddenly, at right angles, to its previous course, and soon displays an opening between the mountains on the north, beyond which the country subsides into a fertile, but hilly region, which continues for a hundred miles, with a noble view of the Catskill, or spur of the Allegany Mountains, at ^hiP dis- tance of 8 or 10 miles. ^.^wi. * Such are the attractions possessed by this noble river, that it annually allures thousands of strangers ; and this, in con- nection with the canal navigation, the summer visiters to the* Springs, the Lakes, and to the Falls of Niagara, causes the synn of one or more millions of dollars to be expended "•"^PWP" Hud*m*s Voyagei, Sfc: 6 {"ft this slate every year, and fornii a very considerable item in the prosperity and resources of the city and country. The Hudson River, in connection with Lake Champlain, has always been the great highway to Canada, and the path or channel of military enterprise. There are 15 to 20 steam-boats, of various sizes, plying from New- York to Albany, and other places on the river ; their passage to Albany is now effected in 10 to 12 hours ! There are several falls on the river, viz. — Baker's Falls, Glenn's Palls, Hadley Palls, and others of less note. The sources of the river nave never been fully surveyed ; but the granitic region thereabouts undoubtedlv contains many fine landscapes and scenes that will soon be better known. Its entire length may be estimated at 300 miles. Its only tributary stream of any magnitude is the Mohawk River. that falls in from the west, at Waterford, which rises 120 miles distant, in the county of Oneida. On this are the Cohoes Palls, and the Little Falls ; and on West Canada Creek, emptying into the Mohawk, are the celebrated Tren- ton Palls, that deservedly rank high in public estimation. As a navigable arm of the sea, land the chief cause of the prosperity of this great metropolis, the Hudson River can- not be too highly estimated ; and when viewed as the con- necting means of our great system of inland navigation, and with the Lakes, from Buffalo to Detroit, Michilimacki- nac, Green Bay, Chicago, and we soon may be enabled to say, through the Illinois River to St. Louis and New-Or- leans, and also by a canal round the Sault St. Mary with the distant shores of Lake Superior, we can hardly appre- ciate the extent of inland trade that may, at no distant day, visit this commercial metropolis of the United States. .'. . t- J 5 Henry Hudson. m f\d' wir Little is known of the eventful life of the celebrated na- vigator Henry Hudson, except that he was an Englishman, born in 1569, of good education, and an experienced and bold seaman. He early entered into a maritime life, abd soon attained a distinguished rank in his {jrofession. He resided in London, and had a family, and his only son, a ■■'■•■ ^ ' ■ V- I* : ■ ■ ppp *' i \ I'j'^ f yonth of great promisei shared with him in all his perils. His first voyage of discovery was in 1607, when he sailed from Gravesend to the coast of Greenland, and made im- portant discoveries, and returned in safely. The next year ne made a voyage to the northern regions. Both ol the foregoing voyages were made by him in the employment of a company of merchants at London; but they not wish- ing his services any longer, Hudson went to Holland, and entered into the service of the Dutch East India Company, who provided him with a small ship called the Half Moon, and a crew of 20 men. He left Amsterdam on the 4th of April, 1609, and after sailing along the coast of America, and touching in different places, he entered the bay inside of Sandy Hook, on the 3d of September, and devoted one month to the exploring of the coast in the vicinity, and in ascending the river that bears his name. His narrative is full of interest, and his voyage and adventures up the river, and his intercourse with the natives, are told in a faithful and descriptive manner, but our limits will not admit of any minute details. The reader that is desirous of farther in- formation on this subject, is referred to the eloquent descrip- tion in Moulton*s History of this State, which does full justice to it. The island of Manhattan, at that period, presented a wild and rough aspect ; a thick forest covered those parts of it where vegetation could find support; its beach was broken and rocky, and had several inlets ; the interior was hilly, with occasional rocks, swamps, and ponds. All traces of this roughness have long since disappeared from the southern part of the island, where the city is now built, and great inroads have been made on all sides into the waters of the harbor; but to the curious, a lively idea may still be given of what was formerly the appearance on the city's site, by examining the interior of tne island, 5 or 6 miles north, on the middle road, or the 3d and 8th avenues, es- pecially the latter, and also on the banks of the Hudson and East Rivers, by which may be discovered the immense la- bpr and expense that have been bestowed by preceding l^enerations, in altering the natural appearance of this island. ISudson, on his return, was forced to put into England by his crew, of whom a part were natives of that country ; and he subsequently perished on a voyage to the great bay that bears his name, by the mutin}' of some of his sailors. Fit ■S »w»"?"iP»'S|/'". ir the Jirsl .M.; ction, ir the as to on on river twen- enter- et, or jnsive ad the of St. lefew street, ,te we above Degins ihia,) iy re- ore to brated fami- ; and I front ibank- ;ratui- id en- valled atle of rymen his in- tevens' n, that, i ■i*K»«Ntf»..V -vip 'T:-^-' *.r'^' ..^V-ar..,;., ^ -.: ^ -■■*% \ "llf .■■*1l . e m from porta forej of a ing entei whoi and Apr] and ofS| inonj ascej full and and mini forni tioni justi^ ofitjii broki of tl^ .M^kItIi^V*?^ SOUthtt ' ! : great i .vv of the ; *iui giveA t %'«; site, b if. mmn^i north, ■}■ ;,-^^.;'--i;0j^ pecia) -^.^Aft^ East ] '■■■■^^''i. ■ij^-'f,' ij bor ai ■:^^'m n-yf- an(i H by hi; and that bl y.»iv ..jT'K'iSr*-'*'**)!?^^ «t«H^-^^ffi ?S^<^ i «•■■ \ S," .:»fc v^flPS-vi, j^.'^*" ^'-■:% '5*S7- Hohoken and New-Vark. :i^fH^'.i^k-M/t}iS^^ Excnrsion up the Hudson Biver. On leaving the city in any of the steam-boats for the north, the traveler for pleasure should, if on his Jlrsl trip, by all means prefer the morning boats, at 7 A. M. ; for the sake of enjoying the splendid scenery in perfection, and select on the upper deck a suitable position near the after part qf the boat, and facing to the north, so as to glance readily at objects that may attract his attention on either shore. For twenty-five miles after leaving New-York the river is very near one mile in width, and then for the next twen- ty expands to three or four times that width before enter- ing the portals of the Highlands. in passing by fifteen streets from Courtlandt-street, or twelve from Barclay- street, we are opposite the extensive steam-engine shops of Kemble and Gouverneur, and the lofty spire seen a short distance in the rear is that of St. John's Church, that faces on Hudson-square, one of the few that ornament the city. The sixth street beyond, as we proceed, is Canal-street, leading into the heart of the metropolis ; and opposite we see, on the west side of the Hudson river, a mile above Jersey city or Powles Hook, (where the rail-road begins leading to Newark and intermediate cities to Philadeljphia,) the village of Hoboken, with its green lawns, shady re- cesses, and embowered walks leading along the shore to and beyond the seat of the Stevens family, of celebrated memory in the history of American steam-boats. The fami- Iv mansion is seen on the summit of the rocky knoll ; and the surrounding and embellished grounds have a bold front of a mile on the river, ?arefully protected by stone embank- ment; the artificial and shaded winding walks are gratui- tously thrown open to the public by the liberal and en- lightened proprietor, in their whole extent of unrivalled beauty. Mr. S. is also the one on whom the mantle of Fulton may be said to have fallen, and his countrymen have already witnessed and enjoyed the fruits of his in- ventive genius. In the rear of the low grounds that environ Mr. Stevens' property on the west, is the village of West Hoboken, that, "ft*,.A., ... w ' ■■"— ' "fuia 8 NetD' York and Weehatoken, ■;f from its elevated and prominent situation on the brow of the Bergen ridge, commands a fine view of the city, harbor, and surrounding country* The Beacon Race-Course is en the hill to the south of the adjoining wood. The ridge rises rapidly as it extends to the north, and sweeps forward in a bold and graceful curve towards the Hudson at Weehawken, "Where commences the remarkable ridge of trap-rock, the Palisades. Ten streets or blocks north of Canal-street, we pass a massive-looking building with a dome or observatory, and a semi-circular colonnade to the south entrance, being a moiety of the old State Prison, now altered and improved, and used for public or benevolent purposes, the property of a wealthy citizen, Mr. L . If far enough out towards the middle of the stream, we Can discern, in passing along the front of the city, the tower- ing and castellated summits of the New- York University, that is situated several blocks towards the interior of the city facing on Washington-square ; and also the domes of the two reservoirs of water in 13th-street, near Union- square. '■''"' "'■•' '■■'■■■■■'■■■■ .^' ■ ■<■ ■ After passing fourteen more streets or blocks, we notice the tall chimney of the Manhattan Gas Works, ninety feet high, and on the third and fourth blocks beyond, the hand- some gothic spire and Episcopal church of St. Peters, and the Episcopal Theological Seminary, and the insulated mansion of Clement Moore, Esq. together with many other comfortable residences of wealthy citizens on the northern confines of the city ; and in twelve more blocks we pass the New-York Chemical Works, and the Asylum for the Blind on the 8th and 9th Avenues, on an elevation back from the river. The Timber Basin for enclosing floating logs and rafts projects out awkwa dly between 36th and 45th streets, and we are now fairly beyond the outskirts of the great me- tropolis, and must again glance our eye to the western shore. The spacious stone mansion that surmqjjnts the brow of the beginning of the Palisades, is the country residence of James G. King, Esq. the Wall-street banker, and occupies one of the most commanding sites in the vicinity of New- York, looking forth on the river below, the city and harbor, and through the Narrows to the Atlantic Ocean. There are several neat villas of less pretension exhibited A- Fort }VathingUm and Fort Lee. 9 along the summit ridge as we continue on, and others at the foot, or on the slope, or curiously nestled in ravines in close proximity to masses of rock that impend over or surround them. Just before arriving at Bull's Ferry we see on the summit the mansion of William Coo))er, Esq an eminent naturalist, and one of the founders of the Ly- ceum of Natural History of New- York. On the opposite shore, observe the new building, the Orphan Asylum, removed to this beautiful site from its former location in Greenwich. Many strikingly beautiful country seats of wealthy and comfortable citizens present themselves in agreeable suc- cession for ten miles on the eastern or New- York side of the river. The narrowest pass on the Hudson below the High- lands is the rocky and acute projection beneath Fort Wash- ington, and nearly opposite to Fort Lee. A large body of American troops in 1777 were embodied near the city of New- York, when it was captured by the British army after the battle on Long-Island, when our army was withdrawn, and a force of two or three thousand of America* mi- litia, was left to defend the weak and straggling lines that had been erected on and around the brow of the hill of Mount Washington, but they were incapable of a prolonged defence ; the Hessians advanced from the east or Harlaem side in overpowering numbers, and carried the works at the point of the bayonet ; the retreat of the Ame- ricans being cut off m every direction, they were slaugh- tered in cold blood by the foreign mercenaries, or held in captivity during the war on board the noted prison-ship in the Wall aboght, where hundreds fell victims to suffering and discEuse. There are very slight remains to be seen of these revolutionary field-works. The writer has often trod upon the hallowed spot before the erection of the present showy, and gay, and jaunty-looking mansions that are now seen there, one of them on the side-slope, being an hotel. The view from the crown of the hill extends for twenty miles up, and the same down the river; and eastward to Long-Island Sound and the Hempstead hills, the elevation is 238 feet ; the height of the opposite cliffs at Fort Lee land- ing is 311 feet. The latter is an admired place of resort, and is fast gaining upon the knowledge and good will of the worthy citizens that venture thus far in the steam-boat, and Q.scend to the summit of the noble bluff, and look around ' / "i plll f l •). 10 SutmnU of the "Palitades. '. (■ and beneath them. Perchance they stray a few miles, or lounge along near the brow of ihifj lovely terrace, that as yet remains in all its pristine wildness and beauty. Long may it thus continue. A path leads along the summit of this noble terrace, on a smooth green sward, winding among evergreens and oaks mile after mile, now approaching to the edge of the precipice, and from salient rngles exhibiting a series of bird s eye, profile, and plunging views, down and along this immense and irregular wall of trap-rock; after recoiling from the startling and sudden view of the abyss, we are led onward, by a succession of these wonderfully fine views that encham the admiration of the artist and the lover of the grand works of nature, and can follow this path near the very brink for fifteen or twenty miles, and find the scene perpetually changing and presenting some new and striking feature of sublimity. Occasionallj^ seme rapid brawling stream or slight gurgling brook will dash along the path, and leap over the steep descent, but no serious impediment is thus presented to the active pedestrian in this prolonged ramble, but rather an additional excitement and pleasure. Tne face of the summit is sufiiciently clothed with a va- riety of forest trees, shrubbery, and flowers, to delight and amuse the botanist; the rocks here and there protrude through the surface of the soil, where the water courses and exposure to the rough and beating storms from the north-east have worn down to the hard and solid rock ; yet good farms and rich gardens are found spread over its sur- face, on various slopes, away from the edge of the eastern face, and threading our way over the hill now ascending or descending, we find in a mile or two to the west, clearings admitting an extensive view over the distant borders of the Hackensack, and an admirable aerial perspective through the blue vapor to the chain of hills in the interior of New Jersey. The Asylum for Lunatics at Manhattanville occupies a commanding position a few rods from the east bank of the river, and has seventy acres of ground annexed, with am- ple range for the inmates about the lawns, gardens, and pleasure-grounds- The leading principle of the system ofl management being of the most improved and humane de- scription, and thus far with the happiast effect. The State of New-York has made liberal donations to this insiiiii- J llJ^pp.llVljl ,v.**>v Vottken*, 'b-: 11 miles, or e, that a:> ty. Long ummit of ng among caching to exhibiting J down and ock; after the a>»yss, onderfully tist and the w this path ind find the ne new and seme rapid dash along , no serious sdestrian in i excitement d with a va- k delight and ;re protrude ater courses ms from the »lid rock ; yet over its sur- f the eastern ascending or est, clearings Dorders of the ctive through erior of New I lie occupies a ,st bank of the xed, with am- gardens, and _ the system of id humane de- .ct. The State this institu- tion. For a full description of this and other public build- ings in the metropolis, see the Picture of New- York and Stranger's Guide, by Goodrich. Beyond the ruins of Fort Washington the heights of Harlaem are seen to skirt upon the river, and to trend away to the south-east along the southern side of the Spuylen Duyvely or the inlet from Hurlgate to the Hudson, that in- sulates the island of Manhiittan from the main, and that is crossed, at or near its eastern extremity, by a wooden bridge, at the termination of the Third Avenue and the via- duct leading from the Harlaem railroad to Albany, and also by the aqueduct from the Croton River, from whence the water is led down near the river road, along the height of land, for forty miles, and comes out opposite Harlaem heights, at 114 feet above tide water. This costly work is destined to last for ages, and to be of immense importan ^e to the health and welfare of the city, and the total expense ten millions of dollars. The various excavations, tunnels, arches, embankments, superstructures, &c. are highly worthy of the minute examination of every stranger and curious visiter, and for full particulars reference may be had t© the Picture of New- York as before mentioned. , Pliillipsburgh, or Yonkers^ ,<; >. ■ isifc ■IV <'$■;:. Seventeen milesTfom New-York, at the mouth of a small stream called the Sawmill River, next occurs on the east shore, and as it is deeply nestled in the vale, the stranger will be apt to overlook it, unless the boat should hug the shore on that side. The spire of the village church, peer- ing up from amid the trees, and ruling over the quietness and seclusion of the old Dutch settlement, with its water- fall, mills, and comfortable abodes, neat lawns a»d gardens, is quite a picture ; but if the boat keep too far out in the stream, as usual, much of this effect and feeling is lost ; but if the traveler will, at this spot, direct his attention to the line of the Palisades on the opposite or west shore, he will beheld the highest part of the range 517 to 550 feet high ; the summit even and regular as the cornice of a house, the entire facade like the ruins of an ancient feudal castle, or- 57 "^pii^iiipiipwii.ii I \ i i 11 :>' 13 Facade of tJie Palisades, namented with the moss and hue of antiquity. The next hundred years will present, on the crowning ridge of the majestic ralisades, one of the most imposing assemblages of elegant and substantial mansions that the world can dis- play, and will be a suitable finish to such a commanding r^levation. Our prophecy is already begun to be fulfilled in part, twenty miles below, at Bergen, Hoboken, and Weehawken. Taking a retrospective profile view of the west shore when approaching the termination where the precipice subsides opposite Dobb's Ferry landing, or Hastings or Greenbush, the singular efiect will be noticed that is produced by the gra- dual diminution of the height from north to south, adding to and distorting the regular perspective effect agreeable; to the laws of vision— ])ut the vista, nevertheless, is grand and unrivalled ; and when viewed in various aspects, in thje bright morning sun, or the coming shadows of evening, or tipt or shrouded with mist, or in the mild effulgence of the full orbed moon, new sources of beauty are noticed and elicited, equally gratifying and surprising to the ob- server of the picturesque in nature. This rugged-looking mass of rock, that seems to defy the thought of scaling its frowning and severe walls, may be as- cended in a few places ; and at Closter landing, opposite Phillipsburgh, a country road exists and extends up b^ several zig-zag and sharp turns, and ascends to the summit level and leads to the secluded valley on the western slope of the English (Dutch) Neighborhood Along the Hacken- sack River. ^ The boundary line of New-York and New Jersey strikes off to the N. W. from about the highest place of the pali- sade range ; and from the first dock north, a path branches to the left, or south, by which the pedestrian may, by fol- lowing for a mile or two, reach the summit of the hill, pant- ing with his exertion, and be fully rewarded by the panora- mic scene before him. At about 22 miles from New-York we enter upon the first change in the usual width of the Hudson River ; the shores recede on each side, and leave an expansion three miles broad, known by the high sounding name of the Tappan Sea, and especially commended to the notice of the Traveler from historical and literary associations. The fields on each border of the river, especially on the east, in mmmmmm i^liimMmtm^ '^ % • ■■,?,>■ ■•■h a- .-»> "'^^^.^ '"^' v;4 •J^k»i-> ^* •*»' >, ■■ »• •'.Af.^dti.V ^^«MM)M f t / ,v •S^- .1 4i«C0«k »f tJui Valuadfs, < ' it, cm tlie crowning ri/lge "» •'-»^ -.-;•' 'rDposiiii-: • -ri' h to isuch ih (.{.^mmanding ».s already bt^gua fo be fulfill]^ :U>w» ftt Hergeij. Hobcken, and ■ ■ t> %: «.*" w» n '1; )n. •'^ pTo'Ue V iWod j|iong the Hacken- iftg with h «Wi; sce»<2 i-." . -ileirt chft*«^xi i-i ■ ••kftjid New Jer^y strikes ;'h«»"ST place <>J' rb.'^ pali- .. '. uoiVl^, d. pa?h I'rarfcher^ t Uie pBd*;jsTri«a may, by fol- *he f^imwiit of the HilJ, paut- *ii» J* i'^iif rewarded by the panora- ••te# ' ' ' JiW-iM^ we enter upon the 'A-s^jTlJie H^.td.son River, tJse '"■ '■ l^&^'r itu €X:pf,5.ndi^l;,,^ r.arne of the ' 5/' ?h*^ notice of th« :«>f SAJKi»^»tiv)UH. The »ii,.:.it^:^..:^ ■,^:.,-^^0^0^iy .4t^ tho cast, ia J ;t 1" I/' i/ >^^H 1 3 i ;t^H i * ^1 • #.»1H < •• m u^. ^ * '• r ' .»» V comes in about 2 miles above Sing Sing, and supplies at times a considerable volume of waier to the Hudson in the sprinq: season. It rises in Putnam county, in the High- lands east of the Hudson, near the Connecticut line, in Pa- terson, Kent, and South East ; and has its sources in pure ponds in a granite region ; and after running in a south-west- ern direction for about forty miles through North Salem, Somers, Bedford, Yorktown, and Cortlandt, what then re- mains of the water after a portion of it being diverted and taken off to supply the large reservoirs and thirsty popula- tion, and to cleanse the dusty streets of the great metropo- lis, forty miles below, falls into the no^le Hudson at Teller's Point, and has there formed a mass of earth and stones, that the rapid freshets of the Croton have accumulated into a respectable isthmus or prolongation of land that intrudes out a mile from the east towards the western shore, and thus distinctly separates the Tappan from the Haverstraw bay. .. ,.,,■ ,..,., , . , , . VreclidiGker Hooky a bold headland that rises majestically from the water on the west shore between the villages of Nyack and Ha- verstraw, is 668 feet in height, and stretches gracefully out to meet the low land from the eastern shore, and forms a distinct point of demarcation between the upper and lower bays ; and the tourist will observe that each successive and Vredidicker Mountain and Lake—llaverstraic Bay. IT. prominent mass of rock on the western shore from the southern point of Bergen in Mew Jersey, where it dips be- neath the waves of the Kills, as we proceed up the Hudson, attains gradually a greater elevation, as will be seen as we proceed in our course through the Highlands and to the Cattslcills, where " Alps on Alps arise," and thus prepares the astonished and delighted traveler, by mild and succes- sive gradations of increasing height, grandeur, and subli- mity, for the more imposing and delightful scenes that will now soon be disclosed. ,• r^^'ti i On the Vredidiker mountain is a cl^ar crystal lake of three or four miles in circumference, that forms the source of the Hackensack River, and although not more than a short mile from the Hudson, is elevated above it about two hundred and fifty feet; and if the traveler notices a depression of the ridge above at the first landing, after passing close beneath the Vredidiker mountain, with a steep road ascending the hill, he will have the locality in view, as the lake is there in that direction; and the pure clear Rockland ice that is sup- plied to the citizens of New- York, is produced at this spot, by the unmitigated and prolonged severity of the Siberian cli- mate of this exposure; and the delicious ice-creams and the wicked bowls of punch that are consumed in New- York owe their charms in a large degree to the reservoir of ice that is here cut out in huge blocks, and slid down to the level of the river below, and when the river breaks up, vast stores of this commodity are transported ; j the city. We now glide rapidly past the Vredidicker, into a second expansion of the Hudson, the Haverstraw Bay, of about the same size as the previous one that we have left behind us, and our course, that, soon after leaving the city, had for twenty miles been nearly due north until we past the Pali- sades and the Sea of Tappan, now assumes, for the ensuing ten miles, a north-west direction, and gives us leisure 10 cast a retrospective glance towards the smooth bay we have just left behind us, and the fast receding outlines of the distant Palisades, fading into the dim blue haze of the hori- zon, with its beautiful aerial tints ; our attention will now be directed to the extensive panorama that surrounds us, to the singular crest and form of the mountain-top on the west shore, known as the His^h Torn, about eight hundred feet in height, (and a remarkable and distinct landmark even from as low down as Newark bay, and the hills of 16 Stony Point — Verplanck^a Point. Staten Island and New Jersey,) with the village of Ha- verstraw or Warren at the base, and the fine curved line of ihe shores and slopes of the hills on each side as we ap- proach the landings of Grassy Point on the west, and Fcr- planck^s on the east, and the light-house on Stony Point oppo- site. This eminence is memorable for the bloody assault made upon it during the revolutionary war by Gen. Wayne and his brave American troops, that were detached for that pur- pose by Gen. Washington, from the forces at West Point, and after making a detour amonq the hills for twenty miles, approached this pest (then held by the enemy, and strong- ly fortified and manned) and stealthily and in the profound silence and darkness of midnight, with fixed bayonets and uuflinted guns, surprised the unwary sentinels and dis- tant out^posts, advanced suddenly to the attack, cut dowu the pickets, entered and carried the works by a coup de main, without firing a gun, and made prisoners of the gar- rison, sparing all that threw down their arms. The ene- my also at the same time held possession of the fort across the river at Verplanck's Point, and the next day a warm exchange of cannon balls took place, that resulted in the evacuation of Stony Point by the American troops that had so gallantly captured it ; as a much superior force of the enemy was advancing upon them, and it was useless to resist the combined attack that was preparing by the Brit- ish force by land and water. The fort was demolished, and the military stores taken away: — thus it had alternately been taken originally from Wayne by the British, then re- captured by him, and again retaken by the enemy, and held during the war. Having entered the portals, and here rapidly drawing near the most interesting scenery of the Hignlands, we re- commend the traveler at this time, when about forty miles from New- York, for the sake of having an unobstructed view, to assume a position on the upper deck on the forward part, and to make a diligent use of hi? eyes in viewing the objects and leading features that pass in such rapid review. The Dunderberg, or Dunderbarrack, or Thunder moun- tain on the west, is nine hundred feet high, and ranges for several miles from south-west to north-er.st, and from its rounded and commanding summit, is a very extensive view ever the county of Westchester to Long Island Sound, and Dunderherg Mountain^ Fort Clinton^ $fc. n down the river and bays that we have passed, to the vicini- ty of New- York, and across the east side of the Hudson lo Pe^kskill, and the mountains in Putnam county, and the summits around West Point. The village of Caldwell, or Gibraltar, as sometimes called, is at the base of the moun- tain, and is usually the first landing-place for the large Al- bany boats after leaving the city of New- York, and where the Peekskill passengers disembark. One that has never before ascended the Hudson River, would here be at a loss to conjecture from this position, as he looks around and is apparently embaye<3, in what direc- tion to look for* extrication from this mil de sac] whether through the deep opening to the right, or the one in fiont leading through the vista in the mountains; — af^er bemg kept in agreeable suspense for a few minutes while near the Caldwell landing, and gazing up at the stupendous eleva- tion close at hand, that the steamer almost brushes or gra- zes in its prniing and rapid course, the boat suddenly is di- rected to the left or west, round the ."icute point or angle that opens into the race, a short reach of the river between the Dunderberg on the south, and St. Anthony's, the next point on the north. After advancing for a few minutes to the west, when near the Salisbury island, do not omit to observe the grandeur produced by the amphitheatrical slope and ter- mination of the Dunderberg mountaiu on the left, with its hardy covering of evergreen trees, the pines or ce- dars, that here till up an angle of several degrees above the horizon as we pass within shadow of the reflection in the deep water at iis base ; or the towering front of the Bare Mountain, that here presents its majestic elevation on the west, of one thousand three hundred and fifty feet. Polo- per's creek, a small mill-stream, that has its origin a few miles in the interior of Rockland county, finds us way through the dark ravine down to the base of the mountain, and forms a secluded basin or harbor for the small river sloops that frequent the mills and landing to load with flour and wood. Each side of the creek on the crest of the hill, are the re- mains of two field-works, forts Clinton and Montgomery, erecte-' during the war of the revolution, as a part cf the system planned for the defence of the Highlands. In the afiair that here transpired, October, 1777, severo.l hundred 2* mmsn^ mBBmmm 18 Anthony*$ Nose. men fell in the attack and defence of this mountain pass on the banks of the Hudson. Sir Henry Clinton led the at- tack, and destroyed the large boom and chain that cost se- venty thousand pounds sterling, and another of less value at fort Constitution. This first massive boom and iron chain was extended across from the east to the west shore oppo- site to the point of St. Anthony, and under the guns of forts opposite, in the vain attempt to stop, or momenta- rily impede the progress of the large armed ships of the enemy, in their advance up the river with troops to aid Burgoyne, and to burn the towns above. But this was money wasted on both sides, for the chain did not accom- plish its intention, although it cost an immense sum of money, and the union with Burgoyne was not effected. The bloody affair in this mountain fastness resulted in the capture of the place by the enemy at the point of the bayonet, after the garrison of only six hundred men had made a gallant defence against a very superior force (three thousand) that came upon them unawares. It was upon this occasion that George Clinton, one of the officers in command, Governor of New- York, and subse- 'oaf, is the property of Mr. Arden, as is also the hilly a • • 0' ded tract to a considerable extent around; and at a ve '/ lecT rods in a southern direction, in a spot not visible to the tia/eler in passing on the river, is the memorable scene where Benedict Arnold held his secret and treason- able midnight interviews with the adjutant-general of the British army, to make his developements and unfold his plans to deliver up West Point, the American army and the nation, into the power of the enemy then our oppo- nents; the best details of these events may be found in he recent piiblication of Spa k's American Biography, in ?' c sket' li of Arnold; it only remains for us to say, that TT so Fort Putnam— Kosciufili 6' s Garden. 1 . 1 the tragical fate and denouement of an individual in the story has elicited too much mawkish sensibility towards one of the principal actors in this drama of the history of America. V/hen at about fifty miles from New-York, we catch the first glimpse of the ruins of Fori Putnam, in a north-west di- rection, five hundred and ninety-eight feet above the river, peering over the brow of the hill on the left, and soon after, of the outworks and buildings attached to the United States military academy at West Point. The hospital, a sub- stantial edifice ot" hewn stone, of two stories, with a front towards the river on the east, a piazza and wings, is the first indication of our proximity to this celebrated school, and of the principal edifices that soon begin to appear in part on the terrace, one hund. : Td eighty-eight feet above the river. On the face of thv? ' beneath, may be pointed out the descent towards the gu^ m of Kosciusko, the Polish patriot of our own revolution, in whose honor the cadets of this academy, in 1828, caused a neat and classical marble monu- ment to be erected, as a memorial of the gratitude of a na- tion for the sympathy of a foreigner of celebrity towards us, that also yielded his life in support of our cause. This cenotaph stands out in bold relief before us, guarded by an iron railing, on the very verge of the precipitous hill, aiid near and amidst the remains of the revolutionary field- works erected by Gen. Putnam and the old continental army in 1776-7. The garden referred to, and the clear boiling spring near it, enclosed in a marble reservoir, \vith durable and ornamental steps leading down from the piain above, with an arrangement of benches on a projection of the rock for visiters, may be seen in passing by, but to more satisfaction by those landing at the point. The manner and style of natural adornment that is pre- eented by the face of the grounds and rocks attached to this national domain, is in good taste in every respect, of art as- sisting nature, and in harmony and keeping throughout, and cannot fail to impress the traveler, when he observes the for- mation of the fantastic rocks, wild moss covered crags, luxu- riantly-garlanded pillars and creeping shrubs, and the cotta- ges and hamletii perched on the slopes, terraces, and crags, in most admired confusion. The elegant mansion on the east side of the river was erected by Capt. Phillips, and is one of the choicest sites on the Hudson, and commands one of the finest West Point-^ Scenery. 21 panoramas in the United States, and is now owned and occu- pied by Mr. Kemble. * We have now arrived at the termination of the six mile reach before referred to, and must stand prepared to behold another magical transformation of the bewitching scenery of the river as the boat takes a sharp turn around the low rucky projection or reef on the wr "^t, and unfolds one of the love- liest views in the world to the enraptured gaze of the be- holder. The lake-like expansion of the river, with the steep front of the lofty mountain that here faces us, called the Ctov3*s Nest, rising to the height of one thousand four hundred and ei|[ihteen feet, with a depression on its top for the nest, giving a fancied resemblance to the name it bears ; together with the general coup d'oeil of the mountains, and the entire panorama of lesser hills and rocky eminences or projections, completes the magnificent framing of this truly splendid landscape, that few can behold for the first time without a feeling of the moat rapturous enjoyment. The boat comes to the landing at West Point and discharges and takes in passengers, and allows time enough for the pass- ing traveler barely to sec the capital hotel on the brow of the hill, and perchance to regret his inability to tarry there for a short period, and test the capa'^ilities of the location and of the landlord, both, to our knowledge, of the first order of ex- cellence ; the view from the observatory on the top of the hotel is peculiarly fine in all its parts, but especially on the north, looking down upon the Hudson and towards Newburgh, ami the remote chain of Shawangunk mountains in the dim blue distance towards the north-west— the plain and level parade of West Point, and the arrangement of the public edifices for the two hundred and fifty cadets, and the private residences of the commanding officers and the professors, are beneath the eye. After the yearly examination in June, the cadets are en- camped on the plain for a certain period, when the drills and parades are worth seeing. The academy has been in exis- tence since 1802, and is under congressional and executive parronage. Another of the booms and massive iron chains was also ex- tended across the river, from the south side to Const: lion Island, that projects from the north shore; the battereu sur- face of the rock there is caused by the artillery or target firing for ball practice, and a few casualties that have occurred in the corps, are enumerated on the monumental tablet on the brow MHHi mmm r. ■ 1 I' If- J 22 Highland Gusts — Cold Spring. of the opposite hill on the west shore. A portion of the great chain as above mentioned is still to be seen with the revolu- tionary relics. The head quarters of Gen. George Washington while in this neighborhood, were on the site of a building near an indentation of the shore, and at the, water's edge, a little beyond the burying-ground of the academy. In receding from, or advancing towards West Point, the finest panoramic view is beheld of all the public buildings on and around the plain, and also of the ruins of fort Putnam, still lording it over the plain and river below. The passage through the Highlands is sometimes perilous for sloop navigation, owing to the sudden and impetuous gusts or flaws of wind that come pouring down between the lofty hills and deep gorges and ravines, with hardly a moment's warning, even duiing the calm pleasant days of summer and other seasons, upsetting the unwary mariner, and involving the crew and passengers in a watery grave. Such was the fate of the sloop Neptune, of Newburgh, on the twenty-third of November, 1824, near Cold Spring, when fifty-five persons were on board, twenty-six of whom perished in four minutes, and the sloop was engulfed in the profound abyss below. The dread of these rapid and powerful descents of air from the upper rogions, down to the surface of the river, requires the exertion of the utmost vigilance on the part of the navi- gators of sloops and river craft, and it was only a few months i»ince that a schooner heavily laden with coal was upset near West Point, and the vessel and all on board were engulfed in a moment. The village of Cold Spring is prettily situated in a cove or recession of the east bank of the Hudson, between Constitu- tion Island and Bull Hill, and has a good landing, and a road that leads to the interior of Putnam county, and to the road to Albany and New- York. The place is owned by the wealthy Mr. Kemble and others, and c^ 'Stains the elegant country seat of Gen. Morris, editor of the New- York Mirror, also that of Mr. Kemble, the proprietor of the West Point foundery, that is here situated on a stream that has a heavy water power, flow- ing down from ihe hills in the vicinity, with a water-fall, im- mortalized by the feat and narration of Miss Fanny Kemble, see vol. 2d, p. 164. The foundery has two blast, three air, and three cupola furnaces, a boring-mill for lieavy cannon, mortars, cylinders, lathes, an iron water wheel, thirty-six feet in diameter, besides a large establishment in Beach aad Wash- r I . \. mm Went Point Founderij-^BuU Hilt, n ington-strcets, in New-York, on the bank of the river, for con- structing sugar mill works, steam engines, and machinery, fitting the same in steamboats, repairing, &c.; employing several hundred workmen in the various branches, in both places. « The boring of cannon is as follows: the solid mass of iron in the shape of 18, 24, 33 and 42 pounders, when cast, are solid, and weigh, perhaps, several tons, and are then firmly secured or arranged on horizontal pivots, and made to revolve rapidly like a turning lathe, by the immense water wheel connected with them, and the boring augur being applied to the proper end, it is surprising to see how easy and simple is the process, and how smooth and regular is the bore. Large contracts for cannon have been taken and made by this concern, with llie United States government; and the regular process for the trial and proving of the strength of each cannon is as fol- lows: the pieces are arranged at intervals, heavily loaded, and double shotted, their muzzles pointed to a ridge of earth, or the tarjiet on the rock at the base of the mountain across the west side of the Hudson,, and then fired in succession. The echo among these mountains is truly grand on such an occasion, and when a feu de joie, or salvo, is made, by dis- charging all the cannon simultaneously, the effect is really •dorious, and seems like a mighty rushing wind or earthquake, shaking the very foundations of the earth. The writer of this was once passing by on board a sloop, rmd floating smoothly along with the tide past this spot, daring a proof trial of the cannon at this foundery, when the moment we had barely cleared their range, wbiz-z-z Avhistled a heavy cannon ball passing within a few inches of our stern, and of the quiet children and passengers on deck, before even we heard the heavy hang oi the discharge, or turned around and saw the smoke passing of!' in curling vo- lumes; this was only done in spoi% to test the accuracy of their aim, to see how ntar they could come to us without hit- ting ; this might have been sport to them, but not so to those on board at the time. If the least flaw or defect is seen in the cannon, the piece is rejected, much to the loss of the proprie- tors, that have to allow their manufactures to undergo this se- vere ordeal, before they will be accepted and paid for by the government. Bull Hill, on the east shore, is the next in course, and 24 Break Neck and Butter llitlg-^Puttiam's Rock, being 1,486 feet high, and containing, about midway be* tween the base and summit, on a portion of the profile edge towards the river, a noted mass of rock resembling the human foreliead, nose, mouth, and chin, with a tree pro> jecting almost like a cigar or pipe, is never passed by the old voyagers and knowing ones without being pointed out to their wondering and amused friends, and one must be quick in observation at the time, and accurate in the di« rection of their eyesight, as the glimpse is but for a minute or two, and the rapid progress of a steamer soon takes you beyond the only point of view, when the illusion vanishes, and the famoas and veritable nose of St. Anthony, the pre- siding Dutch genius of the Hudson and Mohawk, is gone. Break Neck Hill, 1,181 feet high, is the last bluff on the east or right shore in passing up the river, the highest peak, 1,580, being a mile or so to the northeast, and seen when a few miles uj) nearer Newburgh to the best advantage. Butter Hill, the last of the highland river range on the west, is 1,529 feet high, and as the boats usually keep nearer to the base of that mountain, it forms a more im- pressive and overwhelming sight to the traveler than any other, from its immense and toppling masses of craggy rocks, and sweep of precipice, especially towards the south— the eagle is often seen seeking his eyrie amid these inacces- sible and solitary positions, and watching, from his lofty post or alighting place, the tinny tribes beneath the waves. The curious rock found so beautifully perched on the summit of this mountain, and having the appearance at a distance of a tent or marquee, and that was so uselessly and with so much trouble displaced by Gen. i*utnam in a rude vandal and wanton spirit of destruction, merely to see it tum- ble headlong down the mountain to the water's edge, where it is said it is still to be seen, will never cease to be regretted by posterity as an act of wicked frivolity and wanton de- struction totally irreparable, and only to be winked at or over- looked as an indiscreet act of a brave man, and his follow- ers, or fellow-soldiers, but to be frowned upon and prevented at all future times, as should be all attempts to mar or dis- figure the curiosities or wonderful forms and arrangements of nature. Recently, the officers and crew of a British man of war, on the coast of Great Britain, undertook and performed very much such an useless and disgraceful act, that, when known, met with such a general burst of indigna- PoUopeU Island-^New Windsor. |ft tion and disgust, that the British government instantly ofo dered the same crew and officers to replace the stone on the same foundation, although it was like the.labors of Sisyphus, Having finished the Highlands, we pass a mass of rock near the channel called PoUopell Island, having the appear- ance of the top of a sunken mountain, and without any sign of human residence, or ownership, or occupation even by reptiles, though snakes are said to abound, but how they got there no one can tell, and few can stop to ascertain the fact. Like Snakehill in Newark meadows, it has this scare-crow rattle-snake celebrity, as far as we are cognizant, without the least cause whatever ; if any one doubts, let him land and explore. The gorgeous scenes of the Highland passage being fin- ished, the observant traveler will have a store of rich re- collection and resplendent imagery treasured up in his mind and imagination, that will reward him in his future life when brought up in review, aided by his reading and reflec- tions and ether associations connected with the history of America. Cornwall and Canierhury are two villages and landings near the northern base of Butter Hill, and three to four miles from Newburgh, that are the first settlements that appear on the left when we leave the straits of the Highlands, and glide into the expansion of the Hudson, between JNewburgh and Fishkill and New Windsor. J.>^. Moodenen,or Murdenen, or Orange Kill, coming from tho interior of Orange county, near Goshen, joins the Hudson between Canterbury and New Windsor, and is a consider- able mountain and mill stream. New Windsor is a considerable landing-place, and has its sloops, docks, and regular steamboats plying to New- York daily, or two or three times a week, similar to all the towns on the river of any note, and here also is a humble- looking old Dutch-like mansion near the south wharf, that was in 1774, for a time, the temporary head-quarters of Washington. There are neat residences on the northern slope of But- ter Hill, also on the hill near the landing of New Windsor, The embowered abode on the opposite low shore, on a round beautifully wooded verdant spot, is the country seat ofWm. Denning, Esq. ealled by himFresque Isle. The modest-look- ing country seat and extensive grounds of John P. De Wint, 3 I 4'.- ■*'■ 31 Aeicburgh—Peak of Fishkill Mountain. Esq. is the next seen on the east side above Fishkill landing, presenting an extensive and handsomely wooded front to« wards the river, with a complete view of the entrance of the Highlands and the opposite city, *4u ¥ ! i from its peculiar situation on a hill presenting a very steep acclivity, is completely arrayed to the view of the passing traveler, and makes quite a display of business, and has its whale ships abroad, and its own ."Steamboats and sloops in abundance, besides being one of the principal landing and stopping-places for all the steamboats that go to and fro be- tween New- York and Albany, and a great outlet to the cen- tral and western parts of the State of New- York, and having roads and stages to all the inland towns and along the river; and is noted also for its ale. The communication with Dut- chess county is kept up by a ferry across to Fishkill landing, with its long pier reaching out to the channel. The Mattea- wan cotton factory (Schenck's) is at the base of the Fishkill chain of hills near the mouth of the creek, and has a valua- ble water-power, mill, &c. and is a well managed concern. There are two highland schools, one at Cold Spring, on the hill near the foundery before mentioned, and the other here. The geology of the Highlands is primitive, but from hence to Troy and Waterford it is transition, and we are now entering upon and passing along its borders, as denoted by the limestone and kilns along shore for several miles. The interior of Orange and Dutchess counties is fertile, and they are the dairies for the city, especially Goshen in Orange county. From the highest peak of the Fishkill raHge, in plain sight, parties of pleasure that assemble from the vales of the neighboring counties, to scale the arduous ascent, on foot or in carriages, have a transcendently line bird's-eye view down upon the Hudson from Newburgh up the rivei* to a great distance, altogether superior in this respect to any other place, not forgetting even the Catskill Pine Orchard, that can be faintly discerned in the remotest distance, and also the nearer sweep of the Shawangunk range, form- f'B i ih Low Point— Hamburgh — Barnegat. 27 ins: the limit to the west, with all the intermediate country back of Newburgh also expanded to the eye, and on the right hand is seen in the far distance the prominent ranges and peaks in Massachusetts and Vermont, to the utmost verge of human vision. To visit this peak, land at Newburgh, cross the river to Fishkill landing, and foot it up the hill in two hours with ease; the road is followed ana traced up without the least difficulty, and the writer accomplished this in the time mentioned, and was not molested by or saw the least appearance of snakes or reptiles, although he trudged about considerably along the range towards the southwest, to change his points of view. Any one haviag the time to devote to the ascension of this mountain, will have seen this part of the Hudson River valley, &c. in unequalled perfection. Proceeding on from Newburgh in a north-east course for six miles, in a handsome reach of the river, we pass Low Point, a small landing on the east with a few buildings, and in a few minutes* time reach a bold headland or rock on the west shore, Dans commer or Dans kamer point, and face- tiously referred toby Knickerbocker, as "where Gov. Stuy- vesant in his voyage up and landing on this rock, was fright- ened out of his wits by a gang of merry roistering devils, freaking and curveting on a huge rock projected into the river, and which is called the Duyvill Dans Kamer to this day." From the last mentioned point the river assumes, for ten or fifteen miles, a due north and south course, in a reach of exquisite beauty towards Poughkeepsie, that is clearly dis- covered in the distant perspective. Hamimrgh on the east shore, is at the mouth of Wappin- ger Creek, a good mill stream, rising about thirty or forty miles to the north-east, and pervading the county of Dutchess, and having much fine rich interval land on its margin. A mile and a half north is passed a neat but unobtrusive house on the east, the former residence of Georg3 Clinton, gov- ernor of this State, and recently of Gen. James Tallmadge; and on the west shore nearly opposite, we see a new and elegant house of Mr. Armstrong, and the village or landing o[ Hampton, and one and a half miles further is Jews^ Creek, the paradise of the brickmakers, as is the shore hereabouts for the lime-burners. Barnegat is the next landing on the east, as is Milton on M I ii Paughkceptie—Hyde Park. the west, and as we approach that of Poughkecpsie on ♦he east, the traveler will please to notice the singular con- formation of the rocky and distorted slaty shores that rise in a threatening and dangerous manner near the landing, in a bold rocky bluff, that from its summit commands an ex- tensive and beautiful reach up and down the river, and of the opposite shores in New Paltz. The landing at Poughheepsie is se^^eniy-five miles from New- York, and sixty-nine from Albany, and has th^ aspect of a stirring business place ; there are several extensive manufactories (a large one for making steam locomotives) and warehouses along the river front, and there are several ships equipped from hence on whaling voyages, that make it upon the whole a good business. The city is principally built on the upper part of the hill, one mile east of the Hud- son, at the intersection of the old route leading to Albany and New- York, and to the States oi Massachusetts and Con- necticut. The Dutch made their inroads upon the Indians in this vicinity in 1735 ; and in 1788 the New- York conven- tion here assembled that adopted the constitution of the United States, and it has also at other periods, for a short time, been the seat of the State Legislature. The number of inhabitants at the present time is six thousand five hundred. Fall Creek runs through the north part of the city, and forms in its course down the ravine, cataracts and mill seats. The city has its own steam and tow-boats, to take the produce of this fertile county to the metropolis with speed and regular- ity, and this mode is fast supplanting the old tedious system of sloop navigation on this river. There are several neat, tid)r-looking villas or country seats adorning the river's bank in the vicinity of the land- ing, and at intervals along for several miles, as we ap- proach or recede from the landing ; and at the end of the before-mentioned long reach or meridional north and south line, we find ourselves drawing near a slight inflection, or divergence in the course of \he river, called Crum Elbow y when, as we pass out of the long reach that the interlocking of the opposite shores excludes from our view, we see, far ahead, (if we occupy at this moment a favorable position on the upper deck,) the first dim outline in the blue dis- tance, of the Catskill mountains, towering aloft like a thun- der cloud. We are now passina: the rough castellated front of Hyde .€*/r ''\^ #' = .'i^. .-%lli lf^< cJ.]lufi ^^J!J on the CatskiH, is the famous mountain house, two thousand five hundred feet in elevation above tile Hudson. = . . m \f -' ^v^^. i^ iv Glasgow village, in Ulster County, on the west, is ninety nine miles from New- York, abreast of the upper of the Mag- dalen Islands. .' One hundrert miles from New- York, and forty-four from Al- bany, we arrive at the Redhook upper landing en the eas., and the delightful residences of Robert Tillotson, E?q. John Swift Livingston, Esq. and Mr, Elmendnrff, together with a num- ber of other houses, and a hotel ; but the principal settlement is five miles to the east, on the main post-road from north to south. Observe that in this near vicinity is Redhook post-office, Redhook landing post-office, and Upper Redhook post-office, as this is apt to create confusion in mailing letters. Esopus Creek, as it is termed on the maps, but richly deserv- ing the name of river^ comes into the Hudson on the west shore, nearly opposite the landing last mentioned. It rises in the north-west part of Ulster county, has a south-east and then a north-east course past Kingston, and then nearly north to Saugkrties village, its entire length being sixty miles, with much rich land on its margin, and has a heavy water power concentrated within four miles of its mouth, principally bC' longing to Hewy Barclay, Esq. of Ury, the country seat so named, opposite upper Redhook. Vew manufacturing villages in the Northern States are equal to Saugeriies, or have a more solid basis of prosperity^ a never-failinsr water power, derived from the southern slope of the lofty Catskills, united with ample capital, judiciously directed in the manufacture of paper, cottons, woollens, bar- iron, white lead, and many others. The principal fall at this village is fifty feet in height, formed by the union of art and nature, so directed as to back the water for three miles, thus creating a lovely lake to within a mile or so of the great falls of Esopus, and a combination of attract!' scenery, highly pleasing to the traveler of laste, and to the citizens from the south desiring a residence for the summer months. There are steam-boats and tow-boats belonging to this place, and every facility for reaching this desirable village, and enjoying the rides among the stupendous ghauts, or deep gorges of the > Livingston Manor — Bristol. • $/$■ Catskills, that within ten to fiAeen miles attain their greatest elevation and beauty, and are beheld with the most impressivo eifect. The population of Saug^erties is four thousand. The Manor of Livingslen^ in 1684-5-6, was granted hy the king of England to Robert Livingston, a member of hie privy council, and embraced a front of ten miles and a half on the Hudson, twenty anxl a half miles back inland, and foufteen on the eastern border, making two hundred and eighty-eight square miles: with baronial privileges, a tract equal to a small German principality. It is at present owned by several heirs of the original proprietors, (with the excep- tion of Gerniantown, a tract of six thousand acres, conveyed in 1710, by an arrangement with Queen Anne, to a number of Palatines who had served in her armies in Germany,) and now forms the townships of Clermont, Livingston, Taghkanick, Ancram, and Germantowii. The old Livingston manor-house is situated on the east- bank of the Hudson, near Rolef Jansen's, or Ancram Creek, ten miles above Redhook upper landing ; but the splen- did residences of Robert L. Livingston and Edward P. Li- vingston, Esqrs. the sons of the late chancellor Livingston, (minister to France, who made the negociation for the pur- chase of Louisiana with Napoleon, for fifteen millions of dol- lars,) are situated nearly opposite to Saugerties, and their diver- sified grounds and lawns, that command the fin -t scenery on the Hudson, extend for miles on the borders oi the rivei , and are in every respect princely abodes. his family are, and have always been on the popular side nk political mat- ters, and in unison with the old republican party, and of high estimation in the national and state governments. Brislolf on the west shore, is a small village and landin/rfor sloops, two miles above Saugerties ; and opposite, in the mid- dle of the river, begins a series of flats, or low mud islands, that extend up for two or three miles, past Trumpores land- ing, the next above Bristol. Oak Hill, the residence of Har- man Livingston, Esq. next is seen on the east shore, conspicu- ously on the hill sduth of the landing, and the convenient dock and warehouse for storing country produce ; and on the opposite shore, as wc draw near the landing, we pass a creek with a very serpentine channel winding through the marsh and soon after arrive at ■*^'--it'' M Catshill—Pine Orchard — Clove Road. l\ I. ,/ Wm'y'k'"'^' -■'^..' ■■■■- :i ;i CatskilJ, on the west shore, one hundred and eleven miles from New- York. This has long- been an important landing-place for visiters to the great hotel t>Q the table rock of the CatskiDs^ known as the Pine Orchard, and frequented by thousands jf travelers. Carriages are always in waiting on the dock to accomtnodate those that wish to ascend. Travelers can pro- ceed by the railroad to Canajoharie^ a town on the Erie Canal and banks of the Mohawk River, about seventy miles in a north-west direction up tl^ie valley of the Catskillriver^through Green and Schoharie counties, and over and along the north- eastern slopes of the mountains, saving, perhaps, a little time and distance, but losing the view of Hudson, Albany, and Troy, and of the delightful rail-road route along the Mohawk,, from Schenectady to the intersection of Canajoharie. v i Stages for the west leave Catskill daily for Binghamton, Owego, and Ithaca, and thence down the Cayuga L'^ke for forty miles, and by stage, canal, or rail road, to Geneva, Ca- nandaigua, Rochester, Lockport, Lewislown, or Buffalo. Besides the view from the table rock before alluded to, there are other inducements for travelers disposed for a time to seek out gratification and amusement, to visit the falls and other spots that the magic touches of Cole the artist have brought to the public admiration ; and as coaches run regu- larly to and from the mountain, and are so adjusted as to meet the steam>boats at various hours, and also to enable the public to visit the different falls, there is every facility afforded the traveler ; the price is one dollar to ascend to the moun- tain house — the time required, about four hours, distance twelve miles — but half the time suffice;? *o return. The road Tor nine miles from the landing is un* v«;n, and for the last ihree, a steep ascent in a zigzag course, doubling on th© track, that soon places the traveler in a peculiar position, ra- ther trying to the nerves of the timid. The Clove road that ascends the CatskilU, a mile or two uth of the road to the Pine Orchard, should by all means be seen as one of the wonders of the vicinity. It enters upon the ascent where the Kauterskill einerges into the lip-ht of day^ from the deep and overshadowed ravine, where >.hk raginjjf r Scenei-y up ike CaUkilU, 35 nnd force of the (umulluous waters !iave thrown large mnsfles of rock into every imnginable and confused form, pile on pile, nmong wliich, the tumbling waters are sometimes seen burst- ing forth from narrow channels, or crevices, or swelling and boiling up from some syphon or upper source, or forming cas- cades of an endless variety of forms, and giving forth sounds of its raging and uncontrolled power, that, as the traveler follows up the arduous, and endless, and truly fatiguing as- cent, becomes less and less audible, as the road takes the other side of the gorge, by crossing a rude bridge. . > ^ > Several tremendous precipices of sandstone rock, of seve- ral hundred foet in perpendicular height, strike one with awe and delight, — and when nearly at the end of the ascent, the traveler will pause and look back to the east, through the nar- row vista of the towering rocky masses of the mountain on either hand, at a plunging and rapid sweep of the eye, at the distant fields and farms far down in the vale below, an** be- yond the Hudson, on the east shore, well in the interio:', to- wards the Massachusetts and Connecticut lines, the diver- sified colors of the cleared and cultivated lands, green lots, nnd the yellow harvest ripening for the sickle and the scythe, with all the iiues of the fading distance, and at the deep and full green of the American forest predominating over the landscape, the whole presented at such a visual angle and as distinctly exhibited in its details, as a vast map, or page, in the sublime volume of nature. The entire view, from the twilight dimness of objects in the gorge, and the concentration of the eager gaze of the behoWer, and the brillinnt lighting «p of the remoter squares and divisions of the farms, dwindled into diminutive size nt the end of this grand gallery of nature, seems of it- self to be a perfect picture, set with a most gigantic and appropriate frame, and underneath the blue canopy of the o'er-arching expanse of heaven, is in admirable keeping and'harmony. When resuming the advance, and attaining to the summit of the gap^ in a short distance there is a clear ing and a log-house or two, and you can begin your view west'- ard ; the extreme summit of the round top still appears to be at a toilsome distance. The regiJents near this spot are accustomed to conduct up those seekmg their aid to attain the crowning summit of the Catskills, three thousand eight hundred and fifty six feet high. While here, get the guides'to conduct you to the ravine near by, where the western branch WHF i Scenery of the CaUkiUi, of the Kauterskill presents a most beautiful cascade into th« deep and narrow amphitheatrical walls of a secluded recep- tacle, hollowed out and excavated into pools or reservoirs, most admirable for a pur") clear bath, where nought but » small opening like a sky-light admits a sufficiency of expo- sure to exhibit the exquisite drapery that clothes the steep sides and the encircling rim or verge of this sanctuary of nature, that must be sought and won with considerable toil and muscular exertion, and that so richly repays the explorer. This is one among a number of the hitherto se- cret and hidden beauties of nature, that man has seldon» beheld in this portion of the mountain ; others exist farther to the interior. >i./ • ;, , A week or a month of the long days in June, July, or August, will not exhaust the resources of pleasure, but a bare day or two is but seldom awarded, and that is given merely to the Pine Orchard and the Kauterskill, that we shall now describe, premising that the writer once visited them from below, by taking a lateral road, on the north of Clove Road, excavated for the red paint or pigment, the oxide of iron, and clambering up the steep ravine, from crag to crag, and over the dashing brook, and slippery trunks of fallen trees, or moss-covered rocks, until the position was at length attained, that presents the two leaps of the upper Kauterskill falls in one upward view. > The hotel on the table rock was built by the citizens of Catskill, and cost twenty- two thousand dollars; it is one hun- dred and forty feet in length, four stories high, with a piazza extending across the front, and a colonnade. There are about six acres of naked rock surface around the hotel, with ample room for outbuildings. The hotel is placed at a safe distance from the verge of the sheer descent of the precipice, to al- low coaches to draw or drive up in front, to deliver and re- ceive passengers, and for visiters to promenade about, and peer over the dizzy, toppling crags, into the deep valley un« der the eye of the spectator, here at an altitude of two thou- sand five hundred feet above the Hudson, and fifteen hundred above the open meadow at the immediate base of the precipi- tous descent. The Hudson river appears distinctly at inter- vals, for forty or fifty miles, dotted over with numerous isl- ands, and the white sails of the river craft, and the steamers, with their long trains and curling volumes of smoke, that may be easily distinguished by the naked eye, urging their power- .* Scenery of the Catikilt$. 37 fu\ course over the placid surface of the river, that in the f morning sun gleams brilliantly and dazzles the eye with its ^ eiTulgence. The cities of Catskiil, Hudson, and Poughkecpsie also are plainly seen, and minor towns, with their distant vil- lage (tpires. The beholder is impressed at once with the pre- dominance of the native forest trees, and the deep verdure of their foliage, that yet rules over the largest extent of the sur- face of old mother earth, in the entire length and breadth of the land, with a scattering of farms, and cleared lands, and evidences ot the industry of man. The eastern bank of the Hudson, and the entire sweep of the landscape, frtr retreating into the interior, towards Vermont, Massachusetts, and Con- necticut, embracing one hundred miles from north to south, and fifty miles from east to west, is completely unfolded to the view, developing a large portion of the Hudson river val- ley, and presented at the least angle of inclination or slope, towards ns, environed with a splendid outline or frameof moun- tains, with the Taughkannock peak, indicating tho north-west corner of Connecticut, near the New- York and M.issachusetta line, in the south-east, — the well recognized, elevated sierra of Saddle Mountain, near Williamstown, in Massachusetts, to the north-east, and some prominent peaks of the Green Moun- tains in Vermont, on the extreme north ok left; and on the right or south, we distinguish the blue outline of the Fishkill range, and of the highlands beyond Nr.wburgh. The coup d'ceil is grand, — the o'ertopping ridges behind the hotel, on the southwest, west, and north-west, boind the view to a lim- ited extent, but are themselves objects of great magnificence, and are yet seen in all their pristine, or native wildness, rude- ness, &tc. The small peak that rises on the south, near by, is about one hundred and fifty feet higher than the hotel, and is a geological study of itself, composed of pudding-stone, sand-stone, &c. and gives an extension to the view towards Albany, and a bird's-eye view of the table rock and hotel. The remains of the Witidham turnpike, made some twenty or thirty years since, across this mountain, may ho followed towards the west, passing the two lakes that are two thousand feet above tide water, one mile long, and form the cascade of the Kautorskill Falls, that will now be described : — the lakes arc repulsive in their aspect, the one on the north; with broad lobed leaved aquatic plants floating on the surface, and bor- dered by tangled shrubbery, — but the other has a cleaner margin, and the waters of both are connected by a brook 4 I i\ 99 (Scenery of the CaiskOts. passing under the bridge. The supply of water is small, and preserved with care, and lei ofT for hire, to increase the nnasa of the fall when a party of strangers arrives. Following s winding, stumpy, rugged, and at times muddy road, for about a mile through the woods to the south-west, we arrive at an opening of six hundred feet in circumference, that yawns be-> fore us to a profound depth, and arrests our progress by its deep semi-circular or amphitheatrical aperture or form, open only towards the south or south-west, and exposing the deep ravine, richly clothed round with trees, and varied with fo- liage of different colors, retreating steeply down a quarter of a mile or more towards the clove road, and from the foot of the ravine west of the clove, rises in one majestic curtain or slope, extending a mile or two heavenward, the full body of the vast round top^ that fills an angle of thirty or forty degree* above the level of the eye of the beholder, filling him with admiration at the noble grandeur of the effect. The run, or outlet that discharges the water of the two small lakes, rushes across the mass of sand-stone composing the precipice, and leaps into the gulf; and, exhausting itself in foam and spray, falls upon the debris one hundred and seventy-five feet, is again collected on the floor of the rock, and within a short distance takes another plunge of seventy-five feet, and fol- lows the dark, and over-arched, and deeply-shaded depth and windings of the ravine to the valley below. After studying this grouping of the mountains and ravine from above, the traveler should by all means follow the cir- cuitous path that will conduct him down about ninety feet, and then take a horizontal direction, passing under the rock into a serai- cave behind the v.'ater-fall, with the vast rock above that supports the failing sheet of water, and impends over as the stooping and groping explorer walks on the crumbled debris of the red rock, while the water is faUing twenty or thirty feet clear of the standing-place, and forms a curtain of snowy spray in front of this deep recess, that serves partly to veil the deep blue sky, and adds much to the charms of this fearful and wonderful place ; even the rain- bow at certain times appears from above, floating on the bo- som of the mists of the falling spray for a moment, vanishing and circling away. Those that omit to view this fall from be- low lose much that will cause regret. The invigorating pure air that is inhaled at the mountain house, and the exhilarating effect of the various excursions Scenery of the CatahilU— Hudson. 39 «nd promenades that are usually taken while there, have traced up and restored to health many an invaliU that no other means could have recruited. Not the least of the gratifications derived by an observant person, or a lover of nature, from a visit to this mountain eyrie, the most remarkable and elevated in the United States, are the changes in the atmosphere, produced by clouds, fogs, thunder- storms, and the charming and sublime shadows and lights passing rapidly over the plain ; also the appearances pro- duced by the early morning sun, or evening- twilight, or the softer radiance of full moon, or by the clearing off' and rising of the morning mist from the plains below; or what is still belter, to be so fortunate as to witness the gathering of a heavy thunder-storm, and to see the lowering volumes of dark vapors come sweeping over the v/estern crest of the moun- tain, bringing in its train the forked lightning, the loud thun- der, and the pelting hail, shaking the firm foundations aiid re- verberating among the echoes of the everlasting hills ; and then to see, as the writer has done, the surcharged clouds subsiding and sinking into the valley, and then again to see the bright flash, and hear the roar of the storm that is raging beneath your feet, while over your zenith all is clear and calm as a summer's morning, and you see beyond the range of the storm, at ten, twenty, or forty miles distance, the clear powerful rays of the sun pouring with unmitigated intensity upon a tract parched with drought; and then to finish and grace the scene, as the atmosphere is clearing away, pillars of rainbow-hues are seen in the east on the face of the re- treating cloud, and all is hushed, and the refreshed face of nature once more assumes its wonted appearance. A traveler in Europe present at the time, acknowledged that a scene equal to that in sublimity had only once gratified him, — Mont Blanc at sun-set. From Catskill we find our boat shaping its course to the north-east, past a large marshy island, and approaching a bend of the river near the foot of Mount Merino on the east shore. After rounding the hill, the city of Hudson appears before us, at one hundred and sixteen miles from New-York, and twenty- eight from Albany, with its lofty ware-houses at the landing, and ships, steam-boats, and sloops, giving evidence of capital and enterprize that here exist, and that has sent out many ships on distant whaling voyages to the south seas. The city h principally on the summit of the hill, sixty feet above the 40 Hudson-^ Athens— Kinderhook Point., SfC. landing, and is eeen to better advantage when the steam-boat is two or three miles out in the river. There are seven thoa- «and inhabitants in Hudson, and it is tho capital of Columbra County, and a port of entry and the head of ship navigation for large vessels. A branch rail-road extends across thiti State and Massachusetts to Boston, and travelers intending to visit iho Shaker Village at New Lebanon, thirty miles to the north* east, will land here, and proceed in the raii-road cars, at seven o'clock in the morning, or in private conveyances by applying at the inns. There is considerable water-power in the neighborhood, and much of manufacturing industry near Hudson. Its settlement commenced in }784, by Thomas and Seth Jenkins, of Provi- dence, and twenty-eight others, and it had a most rapid growth for a time, too rapid, in fact, to last, for in two years it had fifteen hundred inhabitHnts, and one hundred and fifty dwell- ing houses. Prospect Hill is at the east of Warren-street, that has a gentle ascent of one mile, and terminates in a public square, academy, water-works, &c. Other streets are laid out parallel, and the lots are fifty by one hundred twenty feet. It is compact near the river. There are several churches, banks, JHil, court-house, &c. Lead ofcs have been found here. Athens, on the west shore opposite to Hudson, is in Greene County, and has some genteel private residences, and some participation in the river business and sloop navigation, &c. and communicates with its rival by a canal cut through the mud flat, to avoid a circuit, and boats pass to and fro. Four miles above Hudson on the east, Kinderhook Creek, or Abraham's Creek, alias Ciaverack Creek, comes in, and at its mouth there are cotton factories, paper mills, &c. and a pe- culiarity in the landscape of most striking appearance; and opposite is a prominent high rocky point, one hundred and twenty mdes from New-York, called Four Mile Point, ai>d Raid to be the actual head of ship navigation. The letrospec- tive view down the river from this towards Hudson is truly fine, wiih Mounts Merino, Bancroft, and Prospect in the back ground, or as adjuncts. The shoals and obstructions from t his to Albany are increasing every year, in spite of the puny efforts of man to counteract, and eventually, measures will have to be adopted to extend the Erie Canal thus far. Slaats Point is next passed on the east above the Creek, and Bonnett's Point and Island, and iv. one mile. Little Nutter- Hook, and Nutter Hook ; and across to M'ett shore Coxtukie StaaVs Point — Kinderhook—Ncw Baltimore— S^c. 41 landings, and three islands, (village one mile back,) one hun- dred and twenty-three miles from New- York, and an impor- tant, buatling little place, with sloops, ship-yards, or rather for building steam, canal, and tow-boats, and a hauling-up place. Three hundred feet above the Hudson, is a boulder of Hypersthene, of one hundred tons, like those in the dykes in Essex County. Stuyvesant or 1 inderhook landing, is on the east, {Kinder- hook five miles east,) at the mouth of Coxackie Creek, one hundred and twenty-five miles from New-York. Kinderhook was settled by the Dutch and Swedes, and the name originates from Children's comer or point, so called from the number of children belonging to a Swedish family that anciently lived on a point of land half a mile above the upper landing. This is said to have been the birth-place of M. Van Buren, the President of the United States. Many Islands occur from here to Albany and Waterford, causing the channel to be very crooked and variable, but adding to the beauty of the trip. New Baltimore^ one hundred and twenty-nine miles, hag a dock and store- house, and one sloop to New- York once a week. The water is eleven feet deep; to this place tide rises three to four and a half feet. HannekaVs Killy or Cock Crowing Creek, is on the west side, opposite a group of islands. Coeymans, and CoeyraHns Kill, one hundred and thirty-two miles, is in Albany County, and evidently an ancient and ve- nerable place, with its store-houses, mills, &c. Schodack, one hundred and thirty-five miles, village and landing in Rensselaer County. ^ ., . : ', Castleton, one hundred and thirty-six miles; shoalest water from New-Baltimore to this, three and a half to seven feet, and four and a half to five and a half to Albany; tide rises two to four feet high. , ,;: Vlamans Kill, west side, and Winnes pier and bar. Papacane Creek, east side. Hoke Bergk, or high hill, Mr J. B. Staats, five miles from Albany. Van Wies Point, west. Prospect Hill, east, seat of late E. C. Genet, minister from France in 1798. The eastern slopes of the islands facing the overslaugh are paved with stone to low water, to prevent ab- rasion by the current, and a dam at the north point is to force the water in one channel, and increase the velocity, and re- 4* 4i Albany, ▼ont tho bnr that detains vesselg at low water. Hitherto the United States have devoted large sumn to counteract thiM cvilf but it recurs and fills up, even if scoured out by n machine. Four miles above this is Albany in plain sight, and after passing alone an island that intervenes helween the mouth of the Norman's Kilt, and Cuyter^s Bar, and Van Rensselaer's Mills, and Greenbuah, on the east shore, we arrive at ..f' \ Albany, > one hundred and forty-four miles from New- York, in N. Lat. 42° 39', VV. Lonjf. 73° 13'. The Legislature of the Slate here assembles in the Capitol or State House, at the head of State» street, one hundred and thirty feet above the river. From the observatory on tho top of this edifice is one of the finest views in this Slate, and accessible to alt straugers. Four Ionic co- lumns of mxrble, thirty-three feet high, ornament the portico. The principal objects of attraction the city presents, are its ancient and modern buildings, and the public works of the Stale, the Erie and Champlain Canal, and the f;reat Canal Basin. The ancient Dutch buildings, of which some are ju- diciously permitted to remain in good order, as relics of the olden tune, by their owners, must be sought for in Pearl-street^ north of State, and in streets near t^ river. The rei^idenco of the late Governor De Witt ClinKm, and the Female School, also in Pearl-street, are pointed out to strangers. The Albany Jicadtmif , of red sandstone, also fronts on the square north of the Capitol, and cost one hundred thousand dollars, and is occupied in part by the Albany Institute or Lyceum. The City Hall, also fronting on the Capitol square on the east side, is a showy buildmg of white miiri>le, hewed out by the Slate- prison convicts of Sing Sing, and is distinguished above all other edifices in America by its gilded dome, like the Invnlides at Paris, and Iihs a truly dazzling effect,— this is the court building, and filled for County purposes. An Exchange is now going up at the foot of Slate-street, and also frontmg on Market. There are twenty-two churches for all denominations; a Tkeatre, but poorly sustained ; a Museum in a semi-elliptical building, that is of an elegant and striking appearance, corner Albany. 4t of State and Market-streets, and U worthy of a visit, and also the terrace on the lop. The Law BuUdivgs, corner of South, Market, and Beaver, and the Suiiih Dutch Church in Beaver and Hudson-streets, >vith its noble portico of freo-stonr' and neatly arranged grounds, also the Churches, the Academies, City Library and Rflnding-room, &.c. are all objects worthy of attention to those that have tinio to study the taste of the pi»ople. Stanwix Hall^ of the eastern granite, witti its fine dome, can-* not but be admired. The banking-houses, five in number, arc in State-street, but arc plain, Hecent edifices. The Slate-House, for records, and for the use of the Treasurer, Secretary of Slate, Surveyor General, Register, Adjutant General, Chancelor, he. is a plain '^r3-proof brick building, solid and substantial. The route by Erie Canal occupies one day and a half. Peo- ple that value their time, avoid that route, though along the Mohnwk and Little Falls it is not excelled by any other. Both are given in full, to enable the traveler to make his selection* Albany contains about thirty-five thousand inhabitants, was founded in 1610, after H. Hudson had sailed up the riv^r to the mouth of the Mohawk and returned to Holland, when a fo^t and lodgment was effected on an island below, in 1G14, and found to be too much exposed to floods, ice, &c. and alandoned three years after, and Fort Orange erected, on or near the Fort Orange Hotel, in South Market-street. The English captured New-York in 1664, when this place then received from its now masters the present name, after the Duke of York and Albany, the proprietor. It had a royal charter in lt)86 under Dongan, and was anciently surrounded by a stockade as a defence against Indiana, and it has always been an important and central military position, both in the Indian and French wars; and its connection with the Erie Canal, and the rail-road leading to the west, have recently given it a further impulse that must continue, as all the travel from the Eastern States must pass its portals. The dep6t of the Mohawk and Hudson Rail-road, from Al- bany to Schenectady, is found at 1 16 State-street, opposite Congress Hall, near the top of the hill and public square. Seats are there 4tf)cu red for Utica, price three dollars and seventy-five ceii^||»*>thrnugh in four hours — ninetV'six miles. This JRail-road, extending ^fteen miles from Albany to Schenectady, across a sandy plain covered with pines and 44 Albany. \\ shrubbery, with an inclined plane at each end, cost eight or nine hundred thousand dollars, and the Saratoga and Sche- nectady Rail-road, a continuation of the preceding, and lead- ing to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, and twenty-one miles long, cost only two hundred and ninety-seven thousand two hundred and thirty-seven dollars, or not half the amount of the former, and almost half as long again; began in 1831, and finished in 1832. Another route to reach the Springs in the shortest possible time, is to proceed on to Troy, and take the rail-road from thence leading over to the islands at the mouth of the Mohawk, and over the branch of the delta of the Mohawk to Waterford, and thence to Ballston, — twenty- five miles, and a pleasant route. The Packet-boats do not run as formerly on the canal be- tween Albany and Schenectady, as from passing through twenty-seven locks in the twenty-eight and a half miles, and its consuming twelve hours, it became unpopular, and w^as given up, but the line or freight-boats take passengers if de- sired. Those wishing to take passage in the canal-boats that leave Schenectady for the west in the morning or afternoon, take cars or coaches at Albany en the arrival of the boats from New- York, and are at Schenectady in time. For Troy, there are stages leaving State, corner of Market- street, every half hour, price one shilling, besides small steam boats that leave on the arrival of the great ones from PJew-York. Stages leave daily for Ballston and Saratoga Springs, ot six, nine, and twelve in the forenoon, and at two, three, and five in the afternoon ; and for Whitehall daily, to meet the boat on Lake Champlain, that runs to St. John's, and by rail-road to La Prairie, and on the St. Lawrence to Montreal. Also, for New Haven in a day and a half, via Litchfield daily, one o'clock afternoon. For Hartford in a day, via Sheffield and Norfolk daily, one in morning. For Lebanon Springs, via Nassau, at nine in forenoon, twenty-five miles. For Montreal in three days, at two o'clock morning. For Boston in two days or less, via Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton, and Worcester. Stage Offices corner of State and Market, under the Mu- eum, and on the corner of Hamilton and Market-streets. - ■. ' \' ^^ ^^.A fcil^^^i-. t. i. i« I! are here concentrated, and brought into prominent relief be* fore and around us. The eight old locks and excavations, on a puny scale, of the" Western Inland Lock Navigation Company," made forty years since, to obviate the obstructions and render navigable the Mohawk River through to the Oneida Lake, are here seen amid the rocks and rapids, as a memorial of the earliest at- tempt made in this State to introduce canal navigation ; but this did not remunerate the projectors well, and when the Erie Canal was efiectedj, the State finally paid one hundred thousand dollars, to satisfy the claims of the stockholders in the old concern, (about one fifth part of their expenditures.) There are at this village one hundred and fifty houses, a church or two, a bank, and the whole has a substantial appearance. The traveler on the rail-road cannot do justice to the im- mense extent of the public works and expenditures hero ex- hibited to him by the State of New- York, and by the Rail- road Company, in merely giving a birdVeye view as he flies rapidly along, at the general and combined efiect ; for here are not only locks, canals, rail-roads, and other roads, but also viaducts, aqueducts, water-falls, race-ways, mills, ma- chinery, and a noble stream urging its triumphant and foaming path over its rugged bed in the very midst, and giv- ing vast life, vigor, and animation to the assemblage of objects, but the face of the hill, also, is full of memorials of the changes that time and the elements have wrought out on the rocks in the lapse of ages, that to a geologist, or man of science, will be replete with interesting recollections. For several miles the beetling and rocky precipices en- croach very closely upon the scanty line of road, and barely admit of a joint use of the space for the three-fold purpose of the canal, river, and roads. The beautiful Aqueduct that spans over the entire volume of the Mohawk, that is here compressed into its narrowest limits, rests on two arches of fifty, and one of seventy feet, and thus forms a navigable feeder for the canal, one hundred and seventy feet long, and a link between the nortb and south shore. It is also a leading feature in the picture, and the curious traveler that is not sat- isfied with a transient and hasty glance, can leave the car to explore around for a few hours in this highly interesting re- gion, and proceed in the next train. Cross by the railing on the side of the aqueduct and descend on the stone bridge, and take a view of the central arch with the basin beneath, and i Gulf Bridge— Herkimer, H ma- and »g ic- ing on |e, and and the chutes that come pouring down, and then scramble up to the top of the mountain to catch a view of the Mohawk val- ley for twenty or thirty miles, and examine Xhefivt loekSy and the foundations of the canal, skirted by the deep and rapid river, and the huge rocks and mountain profiles. The long level of seventy miles on the Erie Canal, without a lock, commences at number fifty-three, and extends on through Utica, Whitestown, Rome, Verona, Lenox, Sullivan, Manlius, Lodi, Salina, to Syracuse, Onondaga County. This comprised the easi^^st portion of the canal, and was the first finished in 1817. There will be no more moxmtain scenery compared to this, for the traveler to behold, for several hundred miles west, un- less he quits or diverges from the beaten track ; but there may be equally gratifying or varied scenes. The Gulf Bridge is a span of one arch of one hundred and sixty feet wide, and fifty above the stream, that occasionally discharges a very heavy bcdy of water collected among the mountains and wild lands north of the Mohawk. In this vi- cinity much labor andcxpcnse was incurred by blasting rocks and forming embankments. In the township of Herkimer we bid adieu to the rough and rocky features around the Little Falls, and the road im- mediately enters upon a more sylvan scene, still adhering to the vicinity of the river, that is prettily skirted with dwarf trees and shrubs, and is seen meandering throughout for seven miles across the celebrated German Flats, a most fertile tract; but during the war of 1756 between the English and French, the Canadians and savages invaded this peaceful vale, to kill, burn, and destroy. The road then passes over fVest Canada Creek (Trenton Falls being a few miles north, see p. 53) by a good bridge, and in half a mile we are at Herkimer^ the county town, sixty-four miles from Schenectady, and fourteen from Utica, in the midst of the rich flats. It has one hundred and fifty houses, and twelve hundred inhabi- tants, a court-house, a jail, and a neat church. The village is pleasant to the eye, and the buildings comfortable. There is an obstruction made across the West Canada Creek, that forms a cascade above the bridge, and a canal is cut to the Mohawk, for mills. In five miles, the road crosses the Mohawk River to Frank- forty on the south side of the Mohawk, and continues for nine miles through a series of fine farming lands, that indicates 0t Utica^ Celerity of Travelings our approach to an inland city, that soon looms up at a dis- tance with prepossessing efTect, and we find ourselves in the capacious Utica dep6t buildings, having finished one of the most lovely rides possibje, and a feast to the e^^e throughout, and passed in a rapid flight of four hours, along the most attractive parts of the State. The Rail-road to Syracuse, sixty miles west, follows, not far off, the same monotonous level as the Erie Canal, and is continued to Auburn, twenty-seven miles, and will soon be made on and across the Cayuga Lake and bridge, to Water- loo, and Geneva, Ganandaigua, Bloomfield, Liva, Avon, (with a branch to Rochester,) Caledonia, Le Roy, Stafford, Bata- via, BuHalo. UTICA contains about ten thousand inhabitants, and is a central point for turnpikes, rail-roads, and canals, that radi- ate from this in all directions: the Chenango Canal to the south, the Black River Canal to the north, and the Erie Canal and the rail-roads to the east, north- west to Oswego, and west, and stages in every direction. Fort Schuyler, noted in the early history of this State, was on the site of a part of this city, near the river, and bridge, and the dep6t, and was an im- portant frontier post during the wars of 1756, and 1776-83. In 1784, after the peace, the first settlement commenced, and from 1789 to 1800 it went on prosperously, and has so con- tinued to the present time. The internal improvements of this State, from their concentration hereabouts, must ever make this an important inland town, and eventually, perhaps, the seat of the Legislature. The Rail-road to Oswego is to be continued through the val- ley of the Mohawk, near the river, and over the rich alluvial plains of Whitesboro', Rome, and along Wood Creek, and across Fish Creek, and by the north shore of the beautiful Oneida Lake and river outlet, in a north-west direction to Os- wego, at the mouth of the Oswego River, Lake Ontario, a dis- tance of seventy-five miles; from whence by steam-boat daily to Lewiston is one hundred and eighty-five miles ; »he time required, twelve to fifteen hours; that, added to the four from tJlica, and four from Schenectady, one to Albany, and ten to New-Vprk, gives thirty-one hours as the time by that route, or only twenty-four to twenty-seven hours via rail- road from New-York, Harlaem, to Albany, Schenectady, Utica. Oswego, and steam to Lewiston, (from N^w-Orleana by rail-road to Charleston in five days, and in three to New- Salmon River FcUU-^Trenion FdUt, 53 K , not nd » •n be aler- (wiih Bata- d is a t radi- to the Canal i west, e early 8 city, an im- 6-83. d, and con- of thii make pa, the ihe val- lluvial jk, and auliful to Os- 0, a di«- m-boat es ; the the four ny, and by that via rail- lectadyt Orleans ^o New- Tork, and one (to Niagara, is only nine days,) amounting near to annihilation of time and space 1 The Salmon River Falls of one hundred and ei£[ht feet, in the township of Orwell, sixty-four miles north-west of Utica, may be visited t)y takin? the stage route to Sackett's Harbor, and diveriiing at Redfield to the west, towards the spot. Par- ties of pleasure may descend by water down the river from Redfield, or by land by a decent road, being but six miles. The current i« moderate for three or four miles, then two miles of rapids occur, when we arrive at the falls, whore the river is two hundred and fifty feet wide at some seasons, with the banks of slate and granite, or gneiss, rising seventy-five feet above the falls on oach side ; the waters arc received into a cbnem about one hundred and twenty-five or more feet in depth, making the precipice in all two hundred feet, and at the foot of the cataract there is a deep pool of water replete with fish of the first quality, viz. salmon, trout, &c. forming a well known and capital reservoir to supply tlie gourmands and hotels to a great distance around, that send here to replenish their larders and stock of fresh-water dainties. From Lake Ontario, the Salmon River is eight to ten rods in width for twenty miles above its mouth, and may be as- cended in high and favorable stages of water, even to the foot of the falls; and as they are well worthy of a visit, and have not hitherto been much known to the public, or minutely de- scribed, travelers will have another inducement to explore the hidden beauties of the recesses and waterfalls, and the geological formations of this extensive portion of the State, that yet retains much of its primitive wildness. Trenton Falls, fifteen miles from Utica in a northe in some, yet we are constrained to declare, that the sensa- tions awakened in a lively and ardent imagination, and the unmingled gratification derived by the spectator when the glories of this exquisite spectacle break upon his view, will fur a time absorb him in silent astonishment, and leave nothing more to wish for, so near is it to perfection. The traveller will at first be so overpowered by what he beholds, that it is pardonable if he should question if there can be on earth an exhibition of falling water equal or superior; but whea his gust of feeling is over, he may subspquenily have reason to change or modify this opinion as he travels farther and sees more, compares, and reflects, and discrir ates, giving to all the due meed of praise, Ixit even then, len he reverts to Trenton Falls in after life, the impression it first made upon his mind is strong and enduring,— perhaps unrivalled. West Canada Creek is about sixty miles long, and rises in the wild tracts, and interlocks with the sources of Black River in the high and bleak regions north of the Mohawk River, and forms one of the principal tributaries of the latter, and occasionally vomits forth its sudden and dangerous floods land wears and tears its impetuous course among the limestone and slaty rocks, until, near Trenton, it enters upon a series of descents of near forty feet down a ravine that it has worked for five miles into every various form of twisted and dis- torted aspect, and at the bridge on the road above the Little Falls begins to be remarkable, but three miles below, and two east of Trenton village, it increases upon and absorbs the wonder of the traveler. Following the path from the hotel or boarding-house, we arrive at the brink of a ravine, bordered by forest trees and evergreens of spruce, fir, hemlock. &c. The appearance of such a deep ravine in the general surface, that had not before been noticed in the approach, is the source of some surprise, and this is increased as we descend the stairway into the depths and gloom of the ravine, here, perhaps, one hundred i^nd fifty or two hundred and $fty feet deep, and two hundred 4 Sherman's Fall— High Falh-MUl Dam Fall—Coicadet. 55 wide, and find ourselves upon a floor or foundation of solid rock, and with a very limited extent of blue sky, or tiie vault or arch of heaven ahove our heads. On glancing the ey« around the walls of the immense chamber or enclosure that encompasses us, we admire the drapery that covers and or- naments the ro^ks, and the lichens of scarlet, green, and yel- low, the trees that wave over the margin, or impend in threat- ening attitudes, held only by a slight adhesion of their roots, juiting from the loose soil above, or the shrubs and creeping ivies, trailing down in graceful festoons from crevices high up and midway on the face of the precipice. As we advance slowly up, wo note the regular horizontal arrangement of the limestone that CGmprises the sides, and the cleur and massive pavement-like regularity beneath our feet; the mechanical form and regularity of the circular or deep cistern-sliaped pools, or the square race-ways and chan- nets, as though chiseled by the hand of art, and leading from reservoir to cascade in endless variety, and passing through with unceasing force and rapidity. Contemplating in every aspect these wonders of the glen, we proceed to the falls in succession, beginning with Sherman's Fall, thirty-five feet, named after John Sher- man, the first occupant of the hotel, and one that was exten- sively known as a good lecturer to his visitors here on the numerous organic remains that are containerming id and ty pu- idhI, a en fac- nd ten nklaen d land* lot the pretty Maniiu9—Gre*n Pond^ Onondaga We*t Hill. M ManliWt in Onondaga County^ on the east of Limestone Creek, at the junction of several roads, is ten miles south-east of Syracuse, and forty west of Utica ; has three churches, one hundred and fifty liouses, two taverns, six stores, one cot- ton factory, and several mills. One mile south of the village, and on both branches, are falls, one of a hundred, and one of fifty feet; also a sulphur spring with petrifying qualities. Grem Pond is one and a half miles long by three-quarters wide, and is sunk two hundred feet below the level o^ the rocky shores, and is two hundred feet deep. The surface is a mirror of deep green. It is in the town of Jamesville, six miles from Manlius. Onondaga Hollow and Valley is remarkable for being the chi'of seat of the power of this tribe, one of the confederation of the five nations that ruled ih»s Slate. The Onondaga Creek is a lively stream that runs from south to north for ten miles, through n broad rich valley of the deepest soil of vegetable mould, and enters the Onondaga Lake at its south-east cor* ner near Salina. The old castle or council-house, the ancient seat of Indian power, and the reservation and town recently h«ld by them, was three miles south of the road, in fifty log houses on a long street, and perchance some of the remnant of the tribe may yet be seen lingering about in the neigh- borhood, or at Syracuse. The Indian name for the whole confederacy was Aganuschioni, or United People, and by the French, Iroquois, and consisted of the Mohawks, Onon- dagas, Cayugas, Senecas, Tuscaroras; these sold out to the State of New-York, for two thousand dollars annually, their claim to a large portion of the central and western part of this State. Some reside on Grand River in Canada, others at Buffalo, and some are gone farther west. The vil- lage settlement in the hollow has two churches, two mills, an academy, one store, three taverns, and sixty houses. The vi- cinity of Syracuse, only four miles, and the great canal, have drawn off the business. There is also a Soutk Onondaga ten miles from Syracuse, that has a church, a store, tavern, and a few houses. There is also Onondaga IVest Hill, is on the hill that looks abroad very extensively over hill and valley, lake and city. Here is a Presbyterian and Episcopal church, the old court-house, pri- son, fire-proof clerk's office, two taverns, four stores, and fifty dwellings, and some old respectable residents, or early set- tlers. For a description of Syracuse, (and of the salt works, ) Salina, Liverpool, Geddes, and of the lake, see canal. lML«wiJW!M|||||ppp9VP '*< ( 60 Mareeltui Creeks SJItaneatelti-- Auburn. Marcellus, on Nine Mile Creek, the outlet of the Olisco Lake a few miles south, and that is four miles lung and one wide, and runs into the Onondaga Lake, has a church, and seventy- five or one hundred hou* v~. The waters hereabout possess strong petrifying quali i, and a specimen may be seen on the bank, of a large tree partly imbedded in limestone, by in- quiring of the village physician or minister. There is an abundance of tint, blue limestone of good quality, and of the water lime or cement, mills, factories, &c. and two miles north, falls of seventy feet. Skaneateles^ at the outlet of the lake, is the second of those attractive lake cities (Cazenovia being the first) that we encounter In traveling this great western thoroughfare. It contains four churches, an academy, and five grist-mills that can make forty thousand barrels of flour annually, also four saw, four carding and cloth-dres?ing mills, two woollen factories, two furnaces and founderies, two machine-shops, four tanne- ries, two carriage factories, two taverns, eight stores, three hundred houses, and two thousand one hundred and fifty in- habitants. The site of the village is unsurpassed in its com- plete commiHind of the lake, that is as transparent as air ; its banks romantic, picturesque, and rising into eminences of several hundred feet at its southern termination; it abounds with trout in its deep cool waters, that reflect like a mirror, the hills and slopes, woods, meadows, and pure white farm houses. Petrifactions also abound here; on the east, and on a level with the water, are organic remains of the cornu animoni;*, imbedded in slate. Three miles north of the "out- let, the creek sinks into the rocks below the falls of seventy feet, and is lost for some distance, but this is often the case in Florida, and in limestone countries. The Indian name of this lake, as preserved, means long; it is fed by springs, and is fifteen miles long by one half to one and a half wide. Auburn, is the third of the series of elegant lake cities ; contains eight hundred and fifty houses, and Ave thousand five ifpiiujvJuiin[pp!fR^(yw.*>,iw'('ww'W'.^^*i|i;.pjf^^^ iijjfmmmii.w- AubuTMr^State Priion. i\ hundred and fifty-five inhabitants, a Theological Seminary, eight churches, twenty>seven schools, two banks, capital four hundred and fifty thousand dollars, court-house, jail, clerk's office, siiity-two stores of all kinds, and factories of tools, clocks, candles, combs, cabinet ware, saddles and harness, looking-glasses, leather and rnorocco, boots and shoes, hats, tobacco, bellows, burr mill-stones, coverlets, carpets, cot« ton-cards, threshing machines, tea-kettles, japanned ware, steam-engines, carriages. There are three bookstores ana binderies, five merchant tailors, eight blacksmiths, three dis- tilleries, one brewery, three furnaces, four flour-mills, one marble yard, two livery stables, two wool carding and clothiers, one dentist, two portrait painters, six milliners, five dress ma- kers. Auburn is two and a half miles from the lake, but on the outlet that has ample water-power. The streets are wide, paved or macadamized, and there are iiandsome ranges of stone and brick stores, and in the retired parts some taste* ful dwellings and embellished grounds. The public buildings built in 1836-7-8 are honorable to the inhabitants, and its domes, colonnades, &c. place it far ahead of many olher west- ern towns. Its hotels are good. The celebrated STATE-PRISON may be seen on buying a ticket of the keeper, and the best time is early in the morning, when they are brought out of their cells and arranged in squads, close as they can squeeze, in Indian file, stepping ofil and stamping hard with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their overseer, head erect, each bearing his pail on one of his folded arms in perfect silence, entering their various shops, and kept at constant labor during the regular hours, till four o'clock P. M. when the muffled bell is struck, all labor is suspended, and the convicts, eight or nine hundred, return in the same manner to their cells, and are separately locked up for the night. The most minute precision is required in all their move- ments. The walls that form the inclosure are thirty-five feet high, four thick, and two thousand feet in extent, or five hun- dred feet each front. The interior yard has ample reser- voirs of water, and a range of work-shops of brick, lighted in the sides and roof. The cost was over three hundred thou- sand dollars, not including the convict labor. The Owasco Creek flows alongside the prison walls on the south. It is seven miles to the Erie Canal at Weed's Basin, and stage;; ply constantly to and fro, and twentvtwo miles by the 6 i 62 Aureliua—tthaea. rail-road to Syracuse, there are great quantities of gypsum, or plaster of Paris, quarried on this route, and abundance of the best lime stone. Aurelius^ four miles west of Auburn, has two taverns, two stores, and twenty houses. Cayuga^ three miles further, at the foot of tiie Cayuga Lake, has a church, high school, three taverns, four stores, and forty houses. The longest bridge in the State, it being one mile and eight rods, here extends over and across the lake, and gives the traveler in passing, a satisfactory view of the lake, and its highly beautiful and cultivated shores, far as the eye can reach. A steamer runs to and from Ithaca daily, from the bridge, to meet canal-boats at certain hours. (Travelers intending to go to Ithiica or Owego, should, at Utica, or Syracuse, or at Auburn, where they agree to take the stage, only pay the fare to the Cayuga bridge, and take the steam-boat for ithaca, and arrive at the head of the lake, thirty-six miles, in three or four hours.) Just before his arrival there he will notice on the east shore a foaming cascade come pouring down the ledges of the slate- rock. A car starts on the rail-road for Owego soon after the boat arrives at Ithaca, and traveling but slowly, gets in about seven or eight o'clock; twenty-nine and a half miles; the most defective route in the State. Good hotels are at Ithaca, and fine views in the environs, especially on the summit of the hill overlooking the town, and lake, and shores, with its parti- colored squares of farms and woods. The effect of the dis- tant aerial perspective is grand. A stage leaves Ithaca early the next morning for Bath, twenty-two miles, at the head of the Seneca Lake, and arrives in time for the steam-boat that goes down for Geneva, unless the tourist inclines to remain at Bath, to breathe a few hours and look around. Ithaca is our fourth city of the lakes. In front, and between it and the head of the lake, are three thousand acies of allu- vial flats, from which the hills aiirend on three sides, amphi- theatrically, five hundred feet, with truly magnificent effect, and the picturesque character of the environs is improved and made eminently attractive by the Fall Creek, the Casca- Bridgeport— Seneca Falls. 63 dilla, and Six-mile Creeks, that find their way over the hills, and pay tribute to the Cayuga. Fall Creek rises in Lock Pond, Summer Hill, Cayuga County, fourteen hundred feet above tide, and flows south and south-west thirty miles, and fall^, near Ilhaca, within one mile, four hundred and thirty- eijg;ht feet, over rocks of dark gray wacke slate ; this is best seen from the bridge or steam boat. The last fall is one hundred and sixteen feet, down asleep succession of narrow ledges of rock or stairway to the lake level. The rocks each side above the falls, rise one hundred and ten feet, and enclose a pool for the mills below, that is drawn ofif or tapped, by a tunnel through the rock, thirteen feet high, twelve broad, and two hundred long, and is made to bo used five or six times with a twenty feet head of water. The Cascadilla leaps down a gigantic stairway one hundred feet, and Five-mile Creek is still more surprising. There are five churches, a court-house and prison, clerk's office, thirteen mills, four tactories, thirteen taverns, twenty- eight general stores, many groceries, «lruggist stores, four printing-offices, two hook- stores, one bank, capital two hun- dred thousand dollars, and one of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, eight hundred dwellings, and four thousand inhabitants. Bridgeport, at the west end of Cayuga bridge, contains a store, two taverns, and thirty dwellings. Seneca Falls is three miles west of the Cayuga Lake and Bridge, on the Seneca Ri"* er, the outlet of the Seneca Lake, and where there is w^ithin twelve hundred yards, a heavy water-power of forty-«even feet over four dams. In seven flour mills are twcnty-fouT runs of stones that make eighty- five thousand barrel Kocliester, twenty-seven miles from Canandaigua, in a north-west direc- tion, can be visited by stage and the rail- road* taken for thirty- two miles thence to Batavia ; or the traveler can take the canal to Lockport, and see the wonders there, the huge double locks, the grand natural basin, and the deep rock excavation of several miles, and by rail- road thence to Niagara Falls, or con- tinue on by canal through the entire route once, and take some other method in returning. Whichever way may be adopted, we shall perfect our stage route, however, west of Canandai- gua, nnd after crossing two small streams running north, in nine miles we arrive at East Bloomfidd, with its two churches, *■ 7\)nnatDanta Rail-road was constructed in the following cheap and •implfl manner : " Large posts of twenty-four or thirty inches in diameter were placed on each side of the track opposite to each other, and to enter tlie earth firm and hard, to sustain the side timbers of the track, and squared at the top. Each set of posts ten feet apart. Upon the top of these posts were laid transversely, sticks of timber twelve or fifteen inches in diameter, mortised on the upper side near each end, to receive the lon- gitudinal timbers, that, being t'tom sixteen to twenty inches in diameter, hewed only on the upper side, and intended for the support of each of the rails, were let iiilo the mortises of the transverse timbers, and sup- ported by them at the posts. This, where embankments were made, gives a very substantial frame-work of the proper grade. On the top of the longitudinal timbers, wooden ribbons, as a substitute fur iron rails, were laid. Rail-road cars were procured to carry earth, with four bo.xes each, turning on hinges, to drop the earth between and over the sides of the rails. These cars were loaded at places of excavation, moved by horse- power on the track to make embankments. The .mme frame-work was used and put down where excavations were made. When the road was finally prepared for operations, pine scantling, three by four inches, were laid on the longitudinal timbers, and ironplate rail on the scantling, and all securely fastened by heavy spikes seven inches long." In a country like this, abounding in timber, this is the most economical, but not durable. The uhole timber work, except the scantling, is covered mth earth to pre- vent decay, and the frame-r/ork and earth add mutual support and strength. This does well, and if cars run off the traek, they are received on the ground, and not or cross timbers. Ip Avo7t Springs — Ce Roy. two taverns, two stores, thirty houses, one tannery, situated on high and commanding ground, and having the most cele- brated farms *«iid choice tviient lands. Five miles bryond, we reach West Bloomfield, and in a mile we cross the Honeoye Creek, the combined outlet of tliree small lakes at eight or len miles south, that runs into the Genesee River, and in four miles we arrive at Lima; the whole distance from East Bloomfield being through farms in first-rate order, fence, and keeping. To East Avon five, and the Post Office two miles more from Lima, passing the notoriously rich valley of the Genesee FlnlSy and ten miles south, the IVadsworth Farm at Geneseo, and Mount Morris, (for the falls of Genesee, also for the !lnc of the canal extending from Rochester south, up the Genesee Val- ley, see index.) The two Avon Springs rise within an eighth of a mile from each other, about a mile south of the village. It is usf*ful for its sulphureous qualities. Here are three boarding-houses, much resorted to by the country people; a remarkable pond encloining Indian works, and a root that is peculiar to the flats her<^ of gigantic size, may be worth inquiring for. After crossing; the Genesee River on a substantial bridge, the road varies its course to the north-west, and in eight miles we arrive at the Big Spring at Caledonia, that must be seen as it Is near at hand, and ia quite an anomaly in its way, bursting ouf a ful! grown mill-race. This is probably the lost water from Allen's Creek at the high falls in Le Roy, seven miles west, and thpy rejoin that stream in two or three miles north in Wheatland. A stnge runs from this to Hochesler, twenty miles north-east. Here are two Presbyterian churches, four taverns, fo^ir stores, one flouring and one saw mill, one brewery, and sixty houses. ■■:■'■'-■ L.C Roy, -•■'•' -" - on an eminence on Allen's Creek, !s our next agreeable- looking settlement in six miles from the Big Spring, and here are the falls that supply it through apertures in the lirrte-stone rock ihat prevails in this region. Here are four chhrches, two large niill«, each with fo;ir runs of stones, and making forty thousand barrels of flour per annum, one oil and one plaster mill, a furnace for castings, a tanniery, a ma- chine factory, fifteen stores, three taverns, four lawyers, five Batavia, 69 doctore, fifteen hundred inhabitants, two hundred and fifty houses of stone, with gardens and grounds on a liberal scale, and very pleasing to the stranger. The land office for the triangular tract is here. The fall here in Allen's Creek is eighteen feet, and in one mile, twenty-seven feet more, and in two miles is one of eighty feet. The creek at Le Roy has a stone bridge of three arches. Beyond this creek we enter on the great plain of the west, throwing off streams on all sides. Look for more petrifactions on the bed of the creek six hundred feel north of the bridge. Batavia, ten miles from Le Roy, is situated on the Tonnewanta Creek; and is tho first stream that we have thus far en- countered that pays its tribute to the Niagara above the Falls. The stream pursues a course from east to west, on an ele> vated rocky plateau, about four hundred feet higher than Lake Ontario, and seventy or eighty above Lake Erie. The highest terrace in the southern part of Genesee County ia eight hundred feet above Lake Ontario, consequently rises four huiiusand six hundred and fifty inhabitants. Lands within tf-f;; .ilesof the village sell from twenty to forty dollars the acre, v 'il-road of thirty-two miles, called theTon- eawanta, exteno^ ' . Rochester, and others to Bufialo and Lock- port will soon be finished. Here are many neat residences of IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) € // /,/ < ^ A i/.A %1 1.0 I.I !f^ 140 12.5 2.2 1.8 1.25 1.4 J4 .< 6" — ► V] <^ /a m. /a /A 7 PhotDgraphiG Sciences Corporation 2;^ V^'IST MAIN STREET iVEBSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V «'. . ivac^TiMK&itiasi'i?^.^ " i'"i "-'■*--" i^ ^tiffME fifMyiiii'^r iT '"'i Niagara Falh. T6 tached to Upper Cannda, the boundary line between the Uni- ted States and Canada being in the middle of the main chan- nel from lake to lake. The recent military occupation of this island in the winter and spring of 1838, for a short period during the disturbances in Canada and along the frontier of the United States, by a lawless band of outlaws and despera- does, has given this small island more celebrity or notoriety than it deserves from its fearful position a few hundred yards above the grand cataract. Below this, and to Goat Jsland, and from Chippewa over to Schlosser, a distance of two and a half miles, any boat venturing impiously to intrude upon the green and glassy surface of the alluring stream, will be drawn into the rapids, and swept down to inevitable destruction. Above the Rafids^ the two branches of the Niagara River that enclose Grand Island and the other small islets, come sweeping down with infinite grandeur, and unite their waters for the last time previous to their absorption into the angry confusion of the surge and rocks that form tho rapids. The mo- tion of the immense ocean of waters is grand, is magnificent, full of its conscious power, and profound and overwhelming influence, advancing with increased impetus to the brink of the first shelf of the descent, when the entire breadth of the river, about thirteen thousand feet, is received into the rocky glen or rapid slope, and sinks from ledge to ledge, arrayed in huge and wild masses to receive the shock of this tumbling ocean in its passage over a sloping distance or inclined plane of perhaps four thousand feet, and of only fifty-five of actual descent, but the impregnable and immovable rocky asperities of the underlying rocky foundation are such as to raise, toss, scatter, and part this phalanx of waters into an infinite va- riety of jeds, cascades, and forms of beauty and sublimity ever new, changeable, and wonderful. To the uninitiated and unreflecting traveler and spectator, that perhaps approaches this scene for th« first time, from the south or west, or from a distance up the great Lakes Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, over such interminable oceans and inland seas of freshwater; and sees the whole moving mass here concen- trated, swallowed up in a suddtn subsidence or opening, and plunging into a tremendous abyss in the solid rock, three iiundred feet deep, and a mile broad, the sight is overwhelm- ing and magnificent. *' I will remember the works of the Lord. Thou art the Crod that doest wonders. The waters saw thee, O God, the 76 Niagara Falls. w depths also were troubled, the earth trembled and shook. Thy way is in the sea, and thy path in the great waters, and thy footsteps are not known." The best positions for viewing the rapids are near Chippe- wa, on the road down from Buffklo, on the west from Erie and Waterloo. This is preferable in some respects, and gives the first birdVeye view as the River c/«scends, and the traveler as- cends to the hill north of Chippewa. The table rock is another favorable place to get a front and complete panoramic coup d'oeil, or in walking along the shore on either side^ or in crossing the bridges to Bath and Iris Islands; but the best and most central, is from the upper extremity of Goat Island at the tower, &c. But artists may, and do differ even in this respect; but to many travelers, the young especially , the rapids are the most attractive and delightful part of the enjoyments of a few days at Niagara. To the older and more mature, the crescent, or Horse Shoe Fall, and the on« on the United States side may be more gratifying. Looking at the rapids from Goat Island, directly up stream, with the full angle or inclined plane of the rapids before us, the endless torrent comes booming and bounding on- ward in high curling and dashing waves, that would soon an- nihilate all opposition, but the abrupt subsidence of one ledge and plain below the preceding one, breaks the continuity of the wave, and it darts onward in another wave and plunges till it reaches the precipice. The water passing down, be- tween the main eastern shore and Bath Island, under Por- ter's bridge, isH:lear, and not very deep, but runs with such amazing rapidity and violence over the rocky bottom, that in crossing the bridge, the whole structure appears to be moving bodily towards the precipice with fearful effect ; in fact, strong nerves are required in the traverse. The Falls on the eastern or American side of Iris Island, are one hundred and sixty-four feet in the leap, and nine hundred feet wjde between the Island and the main, and de- scend perpendicularly in one clear, glassy sheet, that is par- tially broken into foam in its course, and is enveloped and ob* ticured in mist about one third or ono fourth of the height from the river below. The Fall between Luna and Iris Island is two hundred and forty feet wide of itself, and is included in the total estimate of nine hundred feet. To appreciate the magnitude and beauty of the Fall near- est to the stairs, (six hundred and sixty feet in widthj de- t 'vmsf^m^im^M Iria -or Goat Island, 77 'scend the stairs, and at various stages or steps, pause and contemplate the astounding, and terrific, and all-absorbing scene; the world of waters, that never ceases to plunge into the river on the rocky masses, and to glance oflfits sprav and scat- tered waters with extreme violence, like small shot, with a force that defies all attempts to face it unmoved, or unshrink- ing, or to resist the whirls of air that issue forth with stifling effect. When at the bottom of the stairs, and of the slope at the edge of the river, again direct the eye upward to the falling waters, that from this position are beheld with the fullest effect, and also the lofty precipices of rock mantled with the moss and hue of ages. The bridge extending over the American rapids to Bath Island, is four hundred and seventy-six feet long, resting on piers or cribs of logs, filled in with heavy masses of stone, and the bridge from Bath to Goat Island is two hundred and seventy-two feet, made in a similar manner. Bath Island is four hundred feet long, and has two acres of surface, and the toll-house, (fee twenty-flve cents,) and a large paper mill and a bathing-house, and is connected by bridges with two islets, the Ship and Brig, that brave the fury of the rapids, and help to ward off or break its force, in impinging against the Bath and mill, and thus the most is made of these mere stepping- stones, bridges, and rapids, and after stepping in the toll house, and examining the album kept there, and inserting name and date, pass over the last bridge to Iris, or Goat Island^ that is half a mile long by a (juarter wide, and contains seventy-£ve acres of land, well timbered with beech, oak, maple, &c. mantled with vines and cryptagamous shrubs or plants, that have most judiciously and com- mendably been preserved by the estimable and worthy pro- prietor in their pristine wildness and native beauty. A neat walk covered with gravel has been made near the skirts of the island, and vistas introduced to direct the stranger, and to exhibit the whole surrounding scenery to the best possible effect. This enchanting lillle island, enthroned in the midst of the furious rapids, and parting aside even the gigantic tide of inland waters that presses upon it with threateuing vehe- mence and resistless power, is now rendered intensely inte- resting to the visitant, by the facilities in approaching it over the formerly impassable and virgin rapids, that had rarely be* fore been attempted by the daring efibrt of man, but are now 7* ' \ 11* fa . ,; • .: Biddfe Stairs. '^-^ ' safely open to public curioeity nnd gratification, and the hither- to hidden beauties and secluded recesses of this charming- spot satisfactorily unfolded. There is not, there cannot be under the arch of heaven a more interesting or awful place in all creation than this, with its auxiliaries of surpassing glory and grandeur, to irradiate, guard, ennoble, and animate the pano- rama that here environs the awe-struck, astonished, and de< lighted traveler. After making the circuit of the island, and gating for the first time upon the prominent features nnd wonders of the place, in a transient or cursory manner, return to the northern face of the precipice, and explore the Biddle Slairs, but first cross the romantic, ticklish bridge to Luna Island^ on the verge of this central Fall, that, when viewed from the Cana- dian shore, at a mill's distance, is almost lost, or appears but a mere ribband in comparison with its more imposing neighbors, yet it is of the very reputable width of two hun- dred and forty feet, presenting a snow«white, foaming appear- ance, that if it stood alone, like the Montmorency at Quebec, would of itself have numerous pilgrims to lavish their admi- ration upon it, but here it is, subsidiary and subordinate, yet eminently graceful and pleasing. The front of the precipice of Ir'ia Island is of limestone ange, wit': the venerable hues of time, presenting a uniform facade of about a thousand feet facing to the north-west, and separa- ting by its intervention the two grand divisions of the falls, the eastern and the western, and it rises to the height of one hundred and eighfy-five feet above the level of the circular gulf below the falls. The visit of the patriotic Nicholas Bid- die, Esq. of Philadelphia, to this place in 1829, resulted in his causing this capital stairway to be constructed at his individual expense, for the public accommodation, and we hope that it will he carefully retained, and repaired, and prcs' rved.* This erection facilitated and opened up to public admiration many new points of view, before unapproachable. The first flight of steps continues for forty feet, when a six- sided or hexagon building, or inclosure of wood, sixty-five * Dr. Hiingerford, of Troy, was inHtantly killed at the falls. In cotn- pany with Lindsey, the guide, lie had descended the Biddle 8tair-ca«e on the American side, and was standing near the water, when a mans of rock* weighing several tons, fell from the bank above, a height of one hundred and fifty foet, directly upon him. Lindsey suffered a severe contusion on hisleft arm, but was not otherwise injured. > V '{ Terrapin Bridge and Tower. 79 feet high, containing the npiral, or geometrical, or cork-screw staircase of ninety steps, lands the giddy explorer upon the top of the debris at the foot of the mural precipice, whence three traces or w'^ ' h -•4i;#/^''' ^MsS^i'i^iiii^i^^ AlbaM/0>^-"^i0^^( •h'%^ 83 In 1664, the transfer of the colony to the English ensned, and the name of this spot was changed from New Orange to Albany, after the Duke of York and Albany, and a charter granted by the English Governor Dongan, defining the boun- daries of the settlement, viz. one mile front on the Hudson, and extending back in a northwest direction, 13 to 14 miles, nearly over to the Mohawk River ; a very narroto and yet libe- ral grant. The city is now divided into five Wards, and has a Mayor, ten Aldermen and Assistants. It is in north latitude 42° 39' — and from the level of the river, has a front of a mile and three-quarters of compactly built spacious warehouses and dwellings, and extending west several blocks to Market- street, the main artery of the city from north to south, from which it rises gradually to Pearl through the central State- street to the termination at the public square and the Capitol, at an elevation of 150 feet, and at the western bounds of the summit level it attains 67 feet more, in all about 217 feet, thus giving the city, on approaching it by river, or from the east shore, a very enticing appearance, as it is presented on a tole- rably steep acclivity that recedes from the river towards the west, and discloses its prominent edifices to the utmost ad- vantage. There are 100 streets, and a population by present estimate of 35,000 — besides a fluctuating mass that arrive and de- part daily by steam^ stage, and cars, of several hundreds that are concentrated here as a focus — here are 21 churches, 12 hotels, 6 banks/total capital $2,150,000 — 4 Insurance Com- panies, 14 charitable societies for various nations, and an Asy- lum, and 2 daily, 2 half weekly, 7 weekly, and 3 monthly papers — a County and the State Medical Society, Agricultural and Horticultural Society — an Apprentices' Library, a very superior Reading-room for young men, free to strangers, with lectures twice a week, and a debating society — the Athe- neum and a Library of ten thousand volumes. The Albany Academy for Females in Pearl north of State-street, is a build- ing that pleases the eye by its beautiful white portico, and is said to be in high reputation. The Albany Academy, on the north s'de of the public square, is an expensive edifice of the reddish or brown sandstone, with a front of 90 feet, and three stories high, that cost near a hundred thousand dollars — it has Professors of the Latin and Greek, and of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, and of Modern Languages — and there are 4 tutors. mm 84 Public BuUdingt in Albany* f a' ■" The Albany Institute has its apartments in the Academy, a library of 2000 volumes, and ten thousand specimens in its museum in geology, mineralogy, botany, coins, and engrav- ings. There are nine district schools, and seven thousand children instructed. Slanwix Hall, built of granite, with a dome, and the Museum of white marble, at the corner of State and Market-streets, and the splendid City Hall, also of white marble, and with a gilded dome of unique appearance, on the east side of the S^i public square, are all fine edifices, as is the Slate House near by. The Capitol, where the State Legislature convene, and the rooms of the Chancellor and Supreme Court are held and the State Library is contained, and other places of public business, occupies the most prominent situation in the city, at the head ^ of State-street, and has a portico of the Ionic order. There are portraits and busts in this edifice and in the City Hall. The Capitol is one hundred and fifteen feet long, ninety broad, and fifty high, and from its steps, or summit, is a most enchant- ing view of the Hudson River, and city, &^c. There are three Academies for females, and a classical school. The Baptist Church in Pearl and the Dutch in Bea- ver and HudsoH'Streets are entitled to notice as neat and taste- ful edifices. There are Bible, Prayer Book, and Tract and Musical Societies, and a Theatre. The public square in front of the Capitol is well laid out, and has a costly iron railing. The six or eight breweries, of noted excellence, produce to the value of half a million a year. Six iron works, $326,000. Oil cloth, rope, cabinet, hollow and stone ware, snuff, tobacco, hats, carriages, sleighs, harness, plated and silver ware, coach lace, looking-glasses, types, morocco, sperm candles, &c. are all manufactured here. A ride to Troy, Lansingburg, Waterford, Niskayuna, or the Shaker Settlement, six miles, and to the Cahoes Falls, on the Mohawk, and along the canal and double locks, and excava- tions, and dams, and acqueducts, will well repay the transient visiter, and occupy a day most agreeably. Stages ply to Troy on the hard macadamized road every half hour, fare 12]^ cents. A view of the great avalanche that overwhelmed the inhabi- tants at the base of the hill, or rather to see the place it occu- pied at Troy, is of itself worth a visit, as well as tho city itself, and its celebrated female school. Cars ply to Schenec- Mineral Spring'^ihe Baain-'Erie Canal. 85 tAdy four times daily, at eight, ten, three, and five— a ferry to Bath and to Greenbush — but the contemplated tunnel under the Hudson is not yet made. ^^r, s- CoUoch?s Mineral Springs six hundred and seventeen feet deep, gives, on analysis, muriate and carbonate of soda, car- bonates of lime, and magnesia, and iron, and acid, similar to the water of the Congress Spring at Saratoga. The spring, with the garden, &c. is worth a visit. .■ _, Tbe Eric Canal Basin, containing nn area of thirty-two acres in the Hudson River, formed by the pier, eighty feet wide, and four thou- sand three hundred feet long, extending parallel with the shore to protect the entrance and exit of canal-boats at the lock, and afford facilities for reception and discharge of pro- duce and merchandise in safety into the adjoining warehouses and sloops, is a work of great utility and of small expense, it having cost but $130,000, and is very profitable to the proprie- tors. There are many steam-boats for carrying passengers between this city and New- York, that leave at seven in the morning and five in the afternoon, daily--K>thers also to Troy, besides tow-boats. In the spacious reservoir or basin, the grand portal or in- troduction to the Erie and Champlain canals, may usually be seen, in the business season, an assemblage of boats from the numerous towns and villages that border on the canals and the small interior lakes that are connected therewith, and inter- mingled with the river and coasting craft ; here are motley groupes of freshwater and saltwater sailors and boatmen, besides the crews of the steamers that are usually ranged out- side of the pier, and throngs of strangers and passengers hurrying to and fro across the bridges that lead from the city to the pier, amid carts and carriages, barrows and vehicles of all kinds, urging onward to extricate from the confused mel^e —this is peculiarly the case on the departure or arrival of the larger class of steamboats, when crowded by their several hundreds of passengers. The tedious mode of traveling by canal between Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, has long since been supplanted by the rail-roads with their flying cars, as detailed at page 45 ; yet it may still be desired by some to trace the method adopted in 8 rvt. 86 Erie Canal — the Patroon^GibhontvUle* 1825 by travelers, and used for several years, to examine this interesting portion of the canal, up the Hudson and branch- ing off to the west in the valley of the Mohawk. By departing from Albany, at an early hour in the morning, in one of the line boats bound for the west, though several hours are required tu pass the twenty-eight and a half railes, and twenty-four locks, to Schenectady, yet to those that can spare the requisite time, and that are fond of this quiet, easy, safe mode of traveling, there is much to be seen in the distance ^ ' to reward the curious stranger; and it can be enjoyed without fatigue, and at a trifling expense. Passing out of the basin, by the first lock of eleven or twelve feet rise, a long reach or level of seven miles, with only one lock, is entered upon, that is parallel with, and but I i a few rods frorn the Hudson Kiver on the ea8t,and the beautiful garden and grounds of the Patroon, so called, (or Patron, or great land owner,) a descendant of the original Dutch patentee of the large manor of Rensaelaerwyck, a very extensive tract on both sides of the Hudson, this being near the central point of the grant of twenty>four miles north and south on the river, and forty-two miles east and west, (one thousand and eight square miles, or six hundred and forty-six thousand one hundred and twenty-eight acres,) bounded by Massachusetts on the east, and by Schoharie county on the west, and by ' Schenectady, Saratoga, and part of Rensselaer counties on the north, and by Columbia and Greene counties on the south. This immense landed estate, except the city of Albany and other tracts owned by individuals, is the undoubted and clear- ly established and recognized property of the Van Rensselaer family, derived by their ancestor, Killian Van Rensselaer, that by permission of the Dutch Government in 1630, 1631, 1637, 1648, and 1649, purchased of the Indians; andthesopur- chases were fully confirmed'in 1641 by the government of Holland, and by that of England under Governor Dongan in 1685, on the 4th of March. The last of the Fatroons, Ste- phen Van Rensselaer, died 1839, 26th January, at 4 P. M., the moment when the great hurricane was raging at New- York, and on the sea-board. The estate, that has been estimated at a value of several millions of dollars, will now be divided among the large family and heirs of the late Patroon. At the termination of the first reach before stated, we arc at or near West Troy, or Gibbonjville, opposite to the city of Troi/f on the east side of the Hudson. Here are five hundred V. 8. Arsenal— Erie Canal— Cahoes Falls. 87 and twenty dwellings, and three thousand five hundred inhabi- tants — the Bank uf Watervliet, capita! $150,000 — manuracto- ries of various kinds, one of India rubber — side locks lead to the river, and a bridge to Tibbett's Island. The surplus water from the adjoining canal yields all the power required for mechanical operations, and may in some measure be con> sidered as a suburb of Troy, and with that is identified in its growth and prosperity. The United States Arsenal covers a large space, with the canal passing in close contiguity ; here are usually large stores ofarms and munitions of war, skillfully and artfully arranged in neat brick or stone buildings, and some relics of the Revo- lutionary war are here to be seen, in cannon taken at Saratoga and Yorktown, and others of brass, of antique form, present- ed by the king of France. • t Two locks, of eleven feet lift each, next conduct to a level of a mile or two that brings us to the junction of the Erie with the Champlain Canal, (leading north to Whitehall, sixty- three and a half miles; see page 44,) and to the steps, or ridges, that are surmounted by nine locks, of eight feet lift each, that are formed of the while marble of Westchester county, and are ninety by fifteen feet in the chamber, as are all the original locks ; the boats are five minutes in getting through each lock, and the canal begins here to incline gradu- ally to the north-west, and as it rises above the Hudson, there is a charming panoramic view of the hills back of Troy and Lansingburg, and of the low grounds and islands in the delta of the Mohawk. ; f. i « *,- The next three locks, of eight feet eight each, or twenty-six feet, is near the bridge that conducts, or connects, the road over the Mohawk to VVaterford, — and from the bridge is a glimpse of the falls above and the dam that raises the river below, to enable the boats that are bound north to cross above the dam in the slack water, though at considerable hazard. The next two locks rise nine feet each, and in half a mile we encounter, for six hundred feet, the first deep cutting, viz. twenty-six feet, in transition argellite, and arrive by the side of the Cahoes FnlU — a Dutch church and a farming settlement, the Boghtox Cove; and the manufacturing village of the Cahoes company is here located, and contains a factory for cotton and woolen, and one for hosiery of cotton, linen, and woolen, on newly invented looms, one for edge tools, a mill for turning- f^ 88 Cahoeg Falls — Wat Hoix Oap. 1 !(; lathes, an iron foundery, a carpet factory, an Episcopal church, two taverns, and shops, and stores, and sixty dwellings. The falls are in full view of the village and of the canal, and have seventy-eight feet descent. Above the cataract, the left or north bank has an elevation of one hundred feet, and below it has one hundred and seventy fef^t of a slaty lead-colored rocU, distorted and irregular in its outline. On the right or south shore above the falls the bank is low, but below it, eighty to ninety feet high. In some seasouii, the bed of the Mohawk below the Cahoes Fall can be examined and walked over close to the foot of the cataract, though rough and full of holes and projections of the sharp angles and points of the slaty rock ; at other times the whole face of the jagged rock, and of the bed below, is one tremendous torrent nine hundred feet wide, white with foam, presenting a spectacle of great sublimity. A canal near two miles long, that leads out any desirable portion of the waters of the Mohawk, a half mile above the falls, to the various mills below, has a head and fall of one hundred and twenty feet, its channel in the first part being through slate rock, between the river and the Erie Canp.l, and then by a t-innel under the state canal to the west side, whence it is distributed as wanted, yielding six or seven successive falls of eighteen or twenty feet. The capital of the company, as incorporated, is half a million of dollars. In haU a mile onward, above the Cahoes, we meet four locks, with a rise of eight feet each, and a series of mills ad- jacent, and in two and a half miles onward we reach the Lower Aqueduct over the Mohawk Piver, of eleven hundred and twenty-eight feet in length, resting on twenty-si.x piers and abutments of stone, the trunk that contains the water being of wood. This transfers the canal to the north side of the Mohawk River, in the town of Half Moon, Saratoga county, along the base of the Wat Hoix ridge, for over two miles, to the famous gap of that name, that for forty rods runs through high walls of gray wacke slate. Until this passage was discovered and determined upon, when the enguieers were exploring the valley of the Mohawk for the best line to adopt, ihey were almost at a nonplus, when they beheld the difficulties and asperities of this vicinity on the south shore of the river, that is very forbidding in its aspect, being rock-bound and precipitous, and it was then that they determined to overcome and avoid all difficulties by carrying the canal twice across the river. The ravine was 1 :.' Wat Hoix Rapidt-rUnion College. 89 eighty feet wide at the east and fifteen at the west, expanding in the middle as if to form a natural basin, with walls of solid rock. Beyond this for 80 rods, the Wat Hoix rapids in the Mohawk have a descent of ten feet, ruffling the surface of the water, and called by the Indiana the Whilt Horsey or the Evil Spirit. On the north the canal is bounded by a precipice of one hundred and forty- sis feet, that in many places over- hangs the canal, and is quite appalling to the sight. On the south is the river washings the bank of the canal, that is formed in a solid and masterly style. Thence it is two miles to Fort's ferry on the old road from Albany to Ballston Spa, and one mile to the next lock of seven feet rise, and one mile to Vischer's ferry. One and a half miles bring us to a deep rock excavation, of thirty-two feet in the solid rock as before. The canal, for a considerable distance in fhe vicinity of Wat Hoix, is on the edge of the river, and a protecting solid wali of stone, smooth and at a low depressed angle, rises from the water's edge as the rapid current sweeps towards the falls. . >, The next two miles contain two locks, of nine feet rise each, and a guard lock and feeder of half a mile from the Mohawk, and a high bank of one hundred and thirty feet, — and in two miles farther we arrive at the Upper Jlqueduct over the Mohawk, where the canal again recrosses to the south bank, seven hundred and forty-eight feet in extent, on sixteen piers of limestone, twenty-five feet above the river, the trunk of the canal of wood, as on the other. The coup d'ceil here is very fine. Here are also three locks, of seven feet lift each, and in a short distance the old Alexander bridge, and mills, on the old Albany and Ballston road. The rock of gray wacke slate is in the county of Schenectady. Three m'les farther we pass in front of Union College^ and soon are in Schenectady. The view over the vale on entering is pleas- ing in the highest degree. The two edifices of the college are each two hundred feet long, and four stories in height, and six more are requisite to complete the plan. $300,000 have been bestowed by the State, or rather permitted to be raised by lottery, for the benefit of this literary institution, but causing the most injury to society of any method that could be adopt- ed to raise funds. There is a President, (Dr. Nott,) seven professors, ateacher of French and Spanish, and two hundred and eighty-five students. Annual expense, board in the hall, j!i98, fuel and light $8, washing $6. There are three terms 8* I •' 90 Sehenectady^Erie Canal. •' in the year, and the expenses of each are payable in advance. The first settlement of this town was in 1620, by a colony of Dutch, to ^nga^e in the fur trade, in despite of the one at Albany ; and this continued peaceably until 1661, when Arent Van Corlaer, and others, received a grant from the govern- ment on extinguishing the Indian title, and in 1664 surveys were made, and an inroad was eifecred by the Canadian French, but they lost their way and were near perishing from \^ fatigue and famine; but Van Corlaer generously enabled them to return in peace, unmolested, in return for this generous and kind treatment, twenty-six years siubsequently, namely, in 1690, the town, then composed of sixty-three houses and a church, was burned by a party of French and Indians, in the night of 8ih February, killing and capturing most of the i( inhabitants; and this was repeated in 1748, and seventy ll \ citizens slair . A fire in 1819, on 17ih November, destroyed '^' one hundred and seventy buildings, but within a few years past the city has been prosperous, from the rail-road and canal that pass through it. The city int on twenty streets, has nine places of public worship, two academies, a Lancaster and several select and district schools, six newspapers, two banks, capital $385,000, an insurance company of $100,000, twelve hundred houses, and about six thousand inhabitants, — an iron and a brass foundery,, carpet, satin, and tobacco factory, a paper mill, &c. A covered bridge extends over the river one thousand feet. The rail-road bridge also runs north over the flats and cause- way fur three-fourths of a mile ; thence the road to Bailston turns northeast four miles, thence northerly along the lake, entering the village, and crossing* the Kynderossera hy a good bridge, and thence to Saratoga — whole distance from Schenectady twenty-one and a half miles, neatly level, the greatest variation being only sixteen feet to a mile, the rails of wood, with iron plates, and the cost only $300,000, with cars, engines &c. Ttie canal passenger-boats leave from this place at half past seven in the morning and half past six in the evening, and are eighteen to twenty hours to Utica. Price for the eighty miles, four cents per mile including meals. The next four miles, across the luxuriant flats of the Mohawk, takes us skirting along tho base of the southern ridge to Rotterdam^ passing two locks, of eight feet lift each. There are nine islands in the river, from two to one hundred and twooty acres, Flint Hill — Schoharie Creek. that the BinnekiU cuts off from the main. The village has two Dutch churches, one cotton factory of two thousand spindles, fifty looms that make four hundred thousand yards of goods and thirty thousand pounds of yarn annually, one carpet factory, two carding and cloth-dressing in'iha, four grist mills of three runs, and one iron casting furnace, and twentv> five dwellings. In a mile and three-quarters we come to the aqueduct over the PlatlekiU, that has a waterfall of aliout eighty feet in ten rods, with a perpendicular pilch of fifty feet, a vein of lead ore in a gangue of slate three quarters of a mile above the falls, that are a mile from the river. Thence in three and a quarter miles is another lock of eight feet, and in two and a quarter miles we are at the limit of the county of Schenec- tady, and enter upon M(mtgomery, and in one mile pass Flint Hill, a branch of tho Catskill that is here pierced by the Mohawk, and on the north connects with the range that ex- tend toward the sources of the Hudson River ; the rock here is sandstone. Three and a half miles are two locks, of eight feet rise each, and an aqueduct, and in three miles we arrive at the bridge over the Mohawk to Amsterdam, (see index and |tage47.) The population here is of a mixed character, being descend- ants from Dutch, Gef«Mwis, Irish, Scotch, &,c. Minaville, or Yankee Street, four miles south of the canal on the Chucta- nunda Creek, has a church of Presbyterians, a tavern, two stores, and forty dwellings. Po7U Jackson has three stores, two taverns, and twenty dwellings. An aqueduct passes over the Chuctanunda Creek, that rises twelve miles south in the high region around D.uanesburg and drives twenty mills. Its name is purely Indian, and means stony bottom. Another creek of the same name enters into the Mohawk on the opposite side of the river. si^vMv In four miles we pass two locks, one of eight and the othor of four feet lift, and on the site of the eastern guard lock former- ly stood Queen Anne's chapel and the old Mohawk castle. The Indians granted a tract of land for the use of the Episco* pal missionary at this church, and with their beloved teacher fled to Canada during the revolutionary war, where he be- came a bishop, and the Indians sent back for their church bell. Schoharie Creek, fifty miles from Albany, — though called a creek it is ten rods wide, and at times would pass for a respec- table stream, being subject to great and sudden freshets from the Catskill mountain region, where it has its origin seventy «', 62 BalV» Cave^Erie Canal • miles south, — is rapid in its course, and is bordered by lofly hills and precipices, and famous for its drift or floodwood, and that is the indication of the Indian name. It is tho largest tributary of the Mohawk, and there are rich flats on its bor« ders, one to two miles wide in Middleburgh, and Sclioharie^lhe county seat, a small village, a court-house of stone, three stories high, county clerk's office, a Lutheran and a Dutch church, two academies, one hundred and twenty dwellings, five stores, three taverns, five mills ; the old stone church served as a fortress when Brandt, and Butler, and Johnson attacked in the war of the revolution ; and four miles north- east is BaWs crtve, two hundred feet in depth, with numerous apartments, a lake thirty feet deep and half a mile long, an amphitheatre one hundred feet in diameter and one hundred high, the floor descending on all sides to tho centre, the roof horizontal, its walls rich in slalactetic decoration. The en- trance to this cavern is by a perpendicular descent of seventy- five feet, and is effected by ropes. Fort Hunter, cast side of the creek. The passoge of the canal boats over the surface of the river just above the dam of twenty feet, is effected by means of a rope, or cable, worked by horses and wound round a drum, or cylinder, on the shore. If the rope should give way, the boat and passengers must go over the dam-^but this seldom happens. The boat then en- ters a lock of six feet rise, on the west side of the Schoharie, and in two miles arrives at the canal house, of singular form, in Smithtown, or Glen, and to Isherkill aqueduct, and Aries- kill dam and guard locks, and in two and a half miles to another lock of seven feet rise, nearly opposite Caughnawaga and Johnstown. (See index, and page 48.) In six miles we cross the little aqueduct and basin opposite the LitlU Nose^ and in one mile to Avthonifa Nost^ in the township of Root, and here we first encounter the primitive or gneiss rock in this valley, in the cliffs near the river is a cave that is said to penetrate several hundred feet into the bowels of the mountain, with the walls encrusted in the usual manner. ' Sprakcr's basin, dam, and guard lock is two and a quarter miles beyond the nose, and in two and three-quarJer miles is another lock of six feet rise, when we are at Cauajoharie on the creek of that name, with a guard lock and a bridge across the Mohawk to Palatine. (See index and page 46.) The Canajoharie, or Bownan Creek, rises in the ridge of .^7/. Erie Canalf SfC, land that separates the valley of the Mohawk froin the extreme head waters of the Susquehanna River, and in the valley south of this ridge, that may perhaps be a thousand feet above the river, is cradled tho town of Cherry Valley and the beautiful Ohego Lake, that, at its outlet at Cooperstown, empties its pellucid waters into the charming valley of the Susquehannah, that meanders for several hundred miles in a southerly direc- tion to reach the Chesapeake, and yet is only separated from the Mohawk by a roof, or slope, of mountainous land about ten miles broad. The fall of the Canajoharie Creek in its course of twenty miles is eight hundred feet or more. Its valley is overlooked with the greatest delight from the ridge just mentioned, cast of Cherry Valley, and presents one of the most extensive and splendid landscapes in the State. Tho rail* road from this to Catskill, seventy miles in a south- east direction, will pursue the base of the north-east face of the ridge. This village is a place of some trade, and has a factory for making cotton and woolen goods, a Dutch church, an academy, a library, two newspapers, four taverns, three distilleries, two flour and two saw-mills, seven stores, one hundred dwellings. Canajoharie Centre^ on the head of Bowman's Creek, has a Presbyterian churcti and a few dwellings, and here is the Central Asylum for the deaf and dumb. In following our course for three and a half miles opposite to Stone Arabia (four miles in the interior, on the north bank) we meet with n lock of seven feet rise, and the guard lock on the Otsquaga Creek, in the town of Minden, and Fort Plain village. The Otsquaga Creek gushes from three springs, and has at its source power to drive three mills, is highly charged with calcareous matter, and has formed in its dell, tufTa and petrifactions, and after a rapid descent to the norlh-east, thronoh Minden, falls into the Mohawk at Fort Plain. Minden township has a front of eight miles along the river, a surface most agreeably undulated with ridges and hills of a moderate height, and pleasant and fertile valleys, and fine alluvial tracts along the Mohawk and Otsquaga. It was early Settled by Germans, and abounds in local names, viz. Dutch Town or the Dorf in the north. Fort Plain in the north-east, Gilspnberg in the centre, and Ford's Balh in the west, and the Bush in the south ; there are two Dutch churches, and seven saw mills, and a fulling mill. In three miles onward, a feeder comes in from the river 94 Valley of the Mohawk, II I above the dam, and a lock of eight feet rise, and the dam and ^uard-lock opposite St. Johnsville in Oppenheim, and in two miles farther at Crous' is a lock of eight feer, and one and a half miles more we are opposite the mouth of £nst Canada Creek, and the Gulf bridge, on the rail*road, of one arch of one hundred and sixty feet span, elevated sixty feet above the water, and in two miles we enter another lock of eight feet rise, in the township of Danube. A Mohawk castle and a church for the Indians, under the patronage of the English, formerly stood at the mouth of (he Nowadaga Creek, that, with its dam, and guard locks, and towpath of four hundred feet, is passed in a mile, and in two more the grave of General Herkimer, his brick house being seen on elevated ground : — he was slain in the Oriskany battle. We are now drawing near to the most interesting portion of the Mohawk valley, the passage of the river through the rocky gulf or barrier. The defile is two miles long M'ith an averRge breadth of six hundred yards, bordered by rocky and wood'clad hills of four hundred feet in height; the rocUs are granite gneiss and hornblend, with calciferous sand rock overlaid by transition limestone. The Little Falls of the Mohawk are eo termed in contrast to the greater descent of the river at the Cahoes below, and this is one of those distinguished geographical positions that is presented in a far less picturesque form at the Wind Gap and Water Gap on the Delaware ; at various places on the Susquehannah ; at the union of the Shenandoah and Potomac in Virginia; and the passage of the Hudson through the highlands of New-York; though the volume of water in the places referred to may be vastly superior, and the natural outlines on a more magnificent scale ; yet the combination of natural objects, with those of artificial creation by the labor and ingenuity of man, that are here brought into direct asso- ciation and contrast, infinitely surpasses that of any other position in the United States. Here are brought into juxta- position, side by side, the Erie Canal with its nest of locks, and the much admired aqueduct and road bridge itrmcdiately over the main chute of the Mohawk; the line of road also adjoining the canal on that side ; then the river and the re- mains of the old flumes and locks of the original canal com- pany ; then the new line of rail-road, and the expensive rock excavations and embankments, and the old turnpike road on Little FalU-^Erie Canai. 95 the north tide, hommed in by perpendicular rocks that n^e almost grazed by the cars,— these arrest the attention of the admii'ing and wondering traveler, and ifcxamination \i made into the geological signs and marks that nature has implanted in indelible characters, so that he that flies may see, and he that "runs may read," tho student of natural science, and others that havo even slightly attended to such suhjects, muflt be impressed with the remarkable and striking features of the entire panorama. The descent of the river in three-quarters of a mile is forty- two feet, the marble aqueduct is two hundred and fourteen feet long and sixteen wide, with walls fourteen feet high and four broad, upheld by one arch of seventy and two others of fifty feet span each, together with the abutments ; a balus- trade on the parapet renders it secure for passengers that may devote a short time to its examination. The adjacent village has a factory for making cotton and woolen goods, two fur- naces for casting iron, two grist, two saw, two paper-mills, two tanneries, two machine-shops, one trip-hammer, one card- ing und dressing mill, four churches, two academies, a bank, capital of $200,000, eleven lawyers, five physicians, two print- ing offices and papers, three hundred and fifty stone dwell- ings, that receive a supply of water in pipes from an elevated spring three hundred feet higher than the settlement. The land, or rock, formerly was held for many years by a Mr. Ellis, an Englishman, disinclined to improve or sell untii recently. It has been purchased by n gentleman of Mew- York, R. Ward. It is seventy-nine miles from Albany, twenty from Utica. There are five locks within a mile, of eight feet lift each, and in the river and on the bank of the canal are huge rocky masses and pillars of grotesque water-worn forms, and for a long distance near here the canal is supported by a wall of masonry that encroaches boldly on the bed of the river, and the deck of the canal-boat affords an excellent view, in pasiising through the locks of this famous mountain gorge, that at first was beheld by the canal contractors with dismay, from the difficulties that were anticipated at this spot in forming a trench or line in such a knotty, contracted glen, and two or three years were allowed by the canal commissioners, and supposed to be necessary for thf3 excavation and construction ; hut it was effected in three months by some unexpected facili- ties, or some new wholesale method of blasting, by which 06 Erie CaroU—'Mohaibk Village-' Herkimer, ! •i .office called Paine's Hollow. A bridge here leads over to Herkimer, three'quarters of a mile north, that has a neat Dutch and Methodist church, and a brick court- , house, and stone jail, and county clerk's office, one hundred / and twenty dwellings, five taverns and stores, and a hydraulic ''' company, that have, at the expense of forty thousand dollars, cut a canal, and constructed extensive works. After passing in a short distance through an extensive dug way in a high hill of clay and sand, is another bridge, a lock of eight feet rise, and another of the same at Fulmar's Creek aqueduct, and in one and a half miles we pass Steel's Creek aqueduct and feeder, and in one and a quarter miles, two locks, of eight feet rise each, and in three-quarters of a mile, the aqueduct over Myer's Creek, and are at Frankfort, a village of fifty dwellings, two churches, a Presbyterian and Baptist, two taverns, seven stores, a furnace that makes iron ware to the value oi thirty thousand dollars a year, and a factory for cotton and woollen goods and machinery. The rail-road is here on the south side of the Mohawk to Utica. The long level of sixty-nine, and a half miles without a lock, here commences, and extends westward through Utica, Whitestown, Rome, Verona, Lenox, Sullivan, Manlius, to Lodi, near Syracuse. This portion of the canal was the I Mil mmm mi^mmmm ■^i-^-^iJwf'j -■ys/ :ii' !>^' '■^' 'i. 'M-., It ' .isfc*t. , .(*7! mi W' '»j#*: 'S\ I v-i, '-."il^ ^S: .« •«t. '#tO «^ii ■C- Jv*.' ■• -;;^ -«s 4. .*«: ',*f''^* -tot?" ^^, '^.'^-m . ■(* ""l !*'>*- .y^> M^ l5*")'.. ■ »-; ( Vk ^^ ^ k^m ';.^#iM(*^i' iim.fi^'' m-^ -" ifK;tkbmr in*-.*- ':;':iw. ^'■<%is;f'i*'#?i. M^ss- itPtSfe ti*f6!W» natal f? i-y #' >^>mp«W'!p;-f'4*".*a'?# riplosion* :' }{?« mi»ui!it«iJ«, fltot^ fit;''** tl*« country . ,f • ag».> the second of the soetef irs--lifs«vfe thft i«^ • ■ia.>''imlhitgr'iii»»T for som<::) *^M# J* f«« ftu wflj^t, ihei'j prisy in Uvo y.i>d a haH" miu:* threiv V"-^iNij i^f •;»i|*fW*. tV-^t lifJ. each, and In luUi aj>tit « haJj uiil's, tivo '.rfSW *^%Ti.^i?;* Si« tli** Oi^rman FUits^ or.o of eight and ons fti' nine ''■«^t- ijikj »'S>ri <^ »■ 'W* fiiutcl. iisfd 83 » ioj tress, and Fort Hsil-ifc^^-f iw«i in 0;.€ mile we arrivt* oppossi« havti become more fa- h eanol Ir-s befw cut around the Woif r^H in the Mohawk, • Hitf and a hftUiTHJos in h-^nrth, giving' wal'; r power. Mohamk, ^ ^itJagg oi' Ihiriy dweiUnu!*. h?>«*. *" ff^w stores, is one nii}** *^^u?b, and a poslntl^lee called l*>:^.f'4 Hollow. A bridge here i;:!^t ovi'«; fo /iVm";H'?r, threc-qiiatCer» at ft ^nisT north, thai JMiii 41 ne-it DutoU and Mf;t.hoi»ttt church, ana a brick court- ii#aaet atid stonsj jaiS, f?iU ct>tn>Vv c5«*?li''» office, cfie h«ndr«.'d sasMt tv^enty dw.^llin^f. five u .ern« nm! (itorf;fi, hw u hydraulic '.;!:, here connnences, :ird fwtends we««;ward throiJ<.Th UlJcK: '"^itdieHtowti, Rome, Vtfrot»:.:, Lenox, Sujlivan,«, IVIun'Jnh^ u j[^,i., near t^yr&cuse. ihi:? porti-^Mi of the canal wan, il- t.' ar«' . ^^^^mf^H^^^ni^^^m^ mmmmmmm naiip \^ Viiea— Schenectady. fir easiest, and the first made. It is the longest canal level known, and is a remarkable feature in the geography of the country* as it follows a prolonged extent of table land from the upper waters of the Mohawk, along the south of the Oneida LakCi toivards the Onondaga River and Lake Ontario. In six miles we pass Ferguson's Creek aqueduct, and in one mile Clark's Creek aqueduct on four arches, and in two miles we are at Vlica. This city has a population of twelve thousand, sixteen places of public worship of all the sects, four academies or high schools, forty-three schools, a Lyceum; and Medical Society, and Mechanical Association, with lec- tures, models, &c. a library, and another for apprentices, and also the Young Men's Association, reading and news-room, and library, with debates, and lectures on literary and scien- tific subjects. Their room, &c. open to all stjrangers. A mu- seumi three banks, capital one million five hundred thousand dollars, an insurance company, capital two hundred thousand dollars, three political and three religious newspapers, a thea- tre, twenty-one inns, including several spacious hotels. ; The line of rail-road is now complete from Albany to Auburn. Passengers can now leave New-York at five o'clock, be in Utica at three o'clock the next afternoon, at Syracuse at six, at Auburn at eight, and at Rochester at five o'clock the next morning, and then to Bufialo via Batavia in twelve hours—- arriving there at five o'clock — fortt-eight hours from New- York. The rail-road hence to Schenectady is described at p. 45 to 52. This is a famous point for the divergence of roads, stages, and canals, to all parts of the State. Hundreds of canal boats, laden with the productions of the interior, are con- stantly passing to the east, and others with foreign merchan- dise to the west. This is a net that catches both wa3's, and passengers here usually leave the canal, from its tediousness or monotony, and adopt some new mode of conveyance. This city has a mayor, twelve aldermen, four justices, and four wards ; is distant from New-Yoik two hundred and thirty-seven miles, Albany ninety-three, Rochester one hun- dred and forty, Bufi'aio two hundred and two, Ithaca ninety- six, Oswego on Lake Ontario seventy-six, Sackett's Harbor ninety four, Ogdensburg one hundred and forty-five. The city is on the south side of the Mohawk, and occupies a slope that faces to the north-west, rising in the rear of the city to an eminence of considerable interest, and overlooking 9 !*. 98 Oneida Countij — Chaieau^ua Hills — Oneida Lake, the valley of the Mohawk for miles towards Whitestown, Rome, the Oneida Lake, &c. with the heights that lead to Trenton Falls fronting the spectator on the north and east. Much of the exciting interest involved in the history of the wars of 1756, and 1776 to 83, as to the border and partizan warfare of those days, is derived from this vicinity, as in the siege of Fort Schuyler, that vas situated near the dep6t and bridge at the foot of the main-street. Oneida County, that we are now in, contains nineteen large cotton factories, capital about eight hundred thousand dollars, and having thirty-three thousand two hundred and thirty-four spindles, and making- five million six hundred and ninety-seven thousand five hundred yards in a year, and use one million eight hundred and sixty-three pounds of cotton. Terms of the Supreme and of the United Slates Circuit Courts are held here. The Chateaugua hills in the north-east, in Remscn, between Trenton Falls and the Black River, are eight hundred and forty feet high, and south of that, the Hassencleaver Moun- tain in Deerfield and Marcy rises from eight hundred to one thousand two hundred feet from a base of eight or nine miles broad, and a chain twenty miles long ; and in the south, the ridge that divides the waters of the Susquehannah from those of the Mohawk is one thousand six hundred and twenty-nine feet above tide, and the summit level of the Chenango Canal, at the head of the river, is seven hundred and six feet above the Erie Canal. The central part of the county that we pass through as we leave Utica, is remarkably depressed below the country to the south and north-east. The vale in ils western portion, inclu- ding the head of the Oneida Lake, is from ten to twelve miles broad, but along the Mohawk, only two to six miles. The great cedar swamp south of Rome is three miles broad, and from the hfcad of the Oneida Lake to the Rome summit east, thirteen miles; tlie rise is sixty feet, and on the north and south sides of the lake it is equally gradual in a few miles. The Oneida Lake is twenty-one miles lon;o, east to west, and three to five wide, three hundred and seventy-six feet above tide, and one hundred and forty-five above Lake Ontario, and its area is seventy or eighty square miles. It abounds with salmon, bass, pike, cat fish, duce, suckers, perch, eels, &c. Fort Royal block-house stood at the entrance of Wood Creek, and Fort Brewerton at the west end of the lake. The outlet, or the Oneida River, twenty rods wide at the Oneida Lake Canal— Oneida Institute. 99 old French Fort, winds sixteen miles to attain eight of west- ing-, and forms, at its junction with the Seneca, the Cswego River. The Oneida Lake Canal extends from the Eric Canal in Verona to Wood Creek, three and three-quarter miles, cost seventy thousand dollars; has one guard and seven lift locks, fall fifty-seven and a half feet, locks ninety-six hy fifteen and a half To return the water that is drawn from the Erie Canal, an equivalent is provided hy a feeder from the Oneida Creek at the castle, three and a quarter miles long, with a lock of four feet lift, and guard gate. The feeder intersects the Erie Canal five miles west of the Oneida Lake Canal. Resuming our western route on leaving Utica, the canal winds along the level region above referred to, and in three and a quarter miles we arrive at the Saughdaquada or Sau- quoit Creek and aqueduct, near the village of Whifeslown, the nucleus of the first settlement beyond Albany, in 1738. It is a half- shire or place of the courts, in part for this county with Rome. Here is a Presbyterian and Baptist Church, Harvey's cotton factory, a brick court-house, a prison, one hundred dwellings, neat and pleasing to the eye, four stores. The Oneida (manual labor) Institute requires three hours* labor per day from each student, as conducive to health, on the farm of one hundred and fourteen acres on the left or west bank of the Sauquoit Creek, in full view. The buildings are of wood, eighty-two by thirty-two, and forty-eight by forty-eight, both three stories high, including in the latter edi- fice a chapel, lecture-room, library, readmg-room, dining hall, and family rooms. Another edifice forty by twenty-eight feet, is the kitchen and steward's departments. Students of fifteen to the upper class, and from ten to fifteen to the ju- venile, The Sauquoit Creek abounds with water power. It rises on the high lands in Paiis, and runs eighteen miles north- west, and is bordered by rich lands. York-vilU, three au da half miles from Utica, has three large cotton factories, one machine shop, three stores, one tavern, a Presbyterian and a Method- ist church, and orie hunyterian, and Metho- diist, a Woollen factory, that uses anniiHlly one hundred thou* snnd pounds of wool, made into broadcloths and cassimeres. There are also flouring, gypsum, water lime, and saw mills, a furnsice, trip hammer, &c. In the hills near the canal in this vicinity, is an abundance of limestone, water or hy- draulic cement, lime, and gypsum. Iron ore is said to be in the bogs. (See nlso p. 58, and for Ca^enovia and Lake.) Eiijht miles more we are in Onondaga County, at Manlius Landing. The village of that name, being fnur miles to the south on Limestone Creek, has one hundred and fiffy dwell- ings, a cotton factory, several grist and sa'v mills, six stores. Fat/etteville, on the north branch of the Seneca turnpike, and by the feeder of the Erie Canal, eip,ht miles from Syracuse, has three churches, seventy-five dwellings, six stores, four taverns, and two mills. KlrkviUe is a thriving village on the canal. Three miles beyond the last landing is a side cut to Orville, and from this is five and a quarter miles to Lodi, be- ing at the west em terminnf.ion of the long level that began at Frankfort, in Htrkimer County. The Sf/racme Academy, a splendid brick edifice four sto- ries high, with an observatory, occupies the most prominent place on the left foreground as we wind around the last hill/ and come suddenly in sight of this fine city, with the canal here beginning to be enlarged on the new plan of eighty feet wide, and eight or ten deep, new lock?, he. The academy has spacious ornamental groimds and garden attached, with terraces in front, facing wef^^t towards the city, that has an imposing appearance as we draw near to its lofty, spacious Warehouses, and ranges of brick edifices, and neat suhurhan private dwellings. There are seven himdred houses, and four thousand five hundred inhabitants; and the Sijracvse House, of brick, four stories, fronting en Water and Salina-streels, is one of the best hotels in the State, and is thronged with company ; the Onondaga County bank is in the adjoining building, and also the post office. The intelligent stranger thai arri"es at Syracuse, and does 9* « • l '', tot Salt Springs, not inconsiderately neglect to loolc about him, but spends a day or two in an active examination of the localities in this city and its vicinity, will derive much gratification from seeing the springs of salt water that rise in great volumes on the imme- diate bank of the Onondaga (a fresh water) Lake, and in tra- cing the modes and means used in boiling or evaporating this strong brine, that in forty-five to fifty-five gallons produces a bushel of pure salt, while the sea water on our coa^t takes three hundred and sixty gallons to make seventy-five pounds of salt! Ira 1835, the quantity of salt hero made was two million two hundred and twenty-two thousand six hundred and ninety-four bushels; duty, six cents a bushel, amount one hundred and eighteen thousand three hundred and sixty- four dollars. In 1833, when the duty was twelve and a half cents, and only one million eight hundred and thirty-eight thousand six hundred and forty-six bushels were made, the duty was two hundred and twenty-seven thousand eight hun- dred and sixty dollars. The principal springs are at Salina and Geddes. At Salina the well is twenty-two feet deep, and ten in diameter, and supplies the works at Salina, Liverpool, and Syracuse. Salt springs are found for an extent of a hundred and eighty miles from Vernon, Oneida County, to the Niagara River, but only those in Onondaga and Cayuga are profitably worked. The whites derived their knowledge of the salt springs from the Indians, and by lowering an iron vessel to the spring on Mud Creek, then submerged by fresh water a few feet, the salt water was obtained, and the same process was used to supply the first settlers until other springs were discovered. There is a difference in the supply by its diminishing in drought« but with improved machinery for pumping, a more rapid influx of brine has been produced, with an increase of strength from twenty to twenty-five per cent, standing at thir- teen degrees on the hydrometer of Beaume, of which the point of saturation is iwenty-two degrees. Large quantities of this salt is sent to Canada by the Os- wego Canal, and to the western states. In boring for rock salt two hundred and fifty feet deep here, no fossil salt or sal- iferous rock was passed, but cemented gravel, and the brine increased in strength as the depth continued. The salt mines in Poland are worked at the depth of seven hundred and fifty feet, and those of Eperies at nine hundred and ninety feet, and here, also, no doubt, beds of it will eventu- Onondaga, 103 ally be penetrated, and ten timed the quantity sold, to what is now slowly made by boiling and solar evaporation. Three millions of bushels of salt can be made here yearly by an adequate supply of brine. During^ 1834, a largo reservoir of the brine was constructed between Liverpool and Sallna, on the high ground, for factories. Geddes Is at the head of the lake, and on its west bank, two miles from Syracuse, and has fifty dwellings, two stores, &c. From the heights near, are fine views of the lake in front, and of cities around the lake and on the canal. Liverpool is four and a half miles north of Syracuse, has sixty dwellings, stores, taverns, &c. on the bor- ders of the lake and Oswego Canal. By taking a ride by the rail-road five miles up the hill to the quarrieSy where a thousand men are seen at work raising stone from the surface, and in hewing, shaping, modelling, kc. for the new locks that are to be made on the Erie Canal, and in entering the cave or chasm that is here found, and in enjoying the extensive prospect from the summit, we can promise the explorer and geologist a rich treat. The lime- stone is excellent for building, and is used for the masonry on the canal, and is easily sent to Oswego, Rochester, Buffalo, Sic. in blocks of any size, by the canal, cranes being used for lift- ing on and off the boats. The rail-road hence to Utica, sixty miles, was finished in 183S-9, and cost only $600,000 ; the road was rapidly formed by Cram's pile-driving machine, and follows the invariable level and low grounds. The facility to travelers in con- tinuing the rail-road west of Utica is very great, and from this it goes to Auburn, twenty-five miles. The valley that contains Syracuse and the Onondaga Lake, is within nineteen feet as low as the Cayuga Lake, and is a longitudinal valley, extending north and south between the Onondaga hills, and has always been a remarkable place, and was selected by the sagacity of the aborigines, as the richest land and the most central abode for the maintenance and diffusion of their power, and here for a long time Ihcy held their secret council fires, and the six confederated Indian bo- dies, the Mohawks, Onondagas, Senecas, Oneidas, Cayugai, Tuscaroras, became the terror, not only of the weaker tribes of nat'.ves, but also of the white man. The name of Onondaga is a pure Indian word, and means a swamp at the foot of a hill, or a place between two hills. Sacandaga, is swamp or marsh. These, like all their names, 1? ' t04 Syrncunc. m'ORonorouw.dosrriplivo, nndstricllyrlinrnrtpriatic, nnd should !)»• prpscrvod with rrligionn rnrr nnd vpiiornlioM. Tho French gBvo thp«o tril)ps thji nam'' of frot/vds. Tli(»v worp ncvrr pnh- diipd until tho fxpi'diiion, (hiiin^ the rpvniiilionnrv wur, finder thft command of CiCMiprnl SnlllvHM, wlion thoy wprr crnchrd, . ftnd the hnnnhty «nirit of the confi'drrntPM tfioronghly pub- f dupd, nnd thn frihps prnltprpd. A small rrninnnt of thpm 'ilill linpnr in this viiIIpv, nnd arp rpliictnnl to qnii thn ahodeii of thpir anrpslorp, but thpy are fast fading under the influ- cnpp of inlpmppranco and iillpupas. The site of thp prpsptjt rify of Syrnrnse has bppn clpnrpd but a vpry f«'W years siiirp the Krip Canal vvn? laid out, but it hn« within ten ypnrs rispp with giant stridea from an ineon- Pidprnhlp hnmlpt to its prpst>nt importance, at the exppnpe of itg auff«'rinp neighbors. Snbna and liie Ononcbipas ; but this is only temporary, as n few years of prospprity ia dpatined to fill this cpntral saline valley even to overflowing with popu- lation nnd wealth. 'Throush the centre of this county farms spII at from twen- ty five to forty and sixty dollars an acre, tmder uooi\ cultiva- tion. Wheat pelves twenty, nnd maixo thirty bushels the acre, nided by «7ypsum. Pine and hemlock, with deciduous trees, dens'ely covered the northern part of the county; in the cen- tre and south, beech, majilp, nnd bass wood. 'J'ho stumps (hat rpnittin attest the dpptli and exuberance of the roit. For gardens, notbinir can be better than the rich vegetable matter that is here fotmd. The red snlifermm sand-stone underTaya tlie marsh nnd 8wam()s, plain nnd Inke, and forms n brim nround tho Inst. The sbonl waters nnd marsh rest on this margin, while the deep waters are within It, to the depth of sixty or seventy feet. The Inke has been lowered two fi^et, the mnrahes drained, nnd this placo rendered much healthier in conse- quence. Saliun, one nnd a balf miles north of Syracuse, is on a plain near the centre of the marsh, with Onondaga Creek near it, nnd liere are seventy-seven of tho salt manufactories, aT)d the head salt spring that supplies the works here, nnd Liverpool, «nd Syracuse, the water beine: conveyed in subterranean logs. The brine is forced to the top of a reservoir eighty-five feet liigh, by pumps driven by the surplus water of the Oaweoro I Canal, at the rate of three hundred gallons per minute for distribution. Solar evaporation produces the coarse srdt, and SyrneuK — Onondaga Creek, 106 Vtoilinf tho fine. Four hundred cords of wood per day are }iere ii^ed for this purpone. In tho cvapuratin^ process, a low roof (hat is movable kg as to shove o% to admit the rays of the flun, or to cover the vat during rain, admits of the deposition in a iiivf days ol' the crystals thnt form, and are removed when matured. There are one hundred and thirty-three salt manufacturers, three thousand four hundred nnd twenty-three kettles and pans of tho capacity of three hundred and thirty-nino thou- sand seven hundred and seventy-Ave gallons, and over a mil- lion and a half of superficial feet of vals for solar evapora- tion. Onondaga Hollow^ and Onondaga West Hill are separately referred to on tho stage route. (See p. 59, and index.) The county court-house and public buildings, clerk's office, &c. are at Syracuse, it being a village incorporation, is on both sides of the Erie Canal, with every thing well arranged for husinesR, concentration, and comfort ; has an Episcopal, a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Baptist church, sixteen lawyers, el«ven physicians, sixteen general stores, twenty- two grocery and provision stores, four drug, two hard-ware, four clothing, and five shoe stores, three turnnces and ma- chine shops, two flouring and one lumber mills, one planing machine, three tin and copper, two leather, one morocco, two carriage, three cabinet, three marble, one soap and candle manufactories, one of steam-OMgines and castings, one brewery, one distillery, two tanneries, one boat-yard and dry dock, two fire engine and one hook and ladder companies. The Onondaga Salt Company, and the Syracuse Salt Com- pany, each with a capital of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for making coarse salt, fifteen salt blocks or nests of kettles for making salt by fire. The Onondaga Creek rises in Tully, twenty-eight miles south, giving good water power, runs through the village, over which the canal is carried in a stone aqueduct of four arches, each of thirty feet span. For Oswego Canal, see index. A small packet-boat plies to Salina every hour, fare twelve and a half cents. Many strangers here prefer to leave the Erie Canal and go to Oswego, and thence by steam-boat on Lake Ontario to Ni- agara, by way of variety. There are two receiving or turn- ing basins in Syracuse and Salina, for the accommodation of (he salt and other boats. 106 BellisU—Niiie Mile CreeJt-^ Amber— Cross Lake. Soon after quitting Syracuse is a lock of six feet fall, and in fc mile and a quarter, another of six feet rise, and in half a mile we pass through Geddes, as before mentioned, winding along in sight of the small Onondaga Lake, six miles in extent and one broad. BellisUy on the canal, is a small hamlet of fifteen dvveilings, six miles from Syracuse, and Amboy is on the Nine Mile Creek, or outlet oi the Oiisco Lake, seven miles from Syra- cuse, and has twenty dwellings, a mill, &c. Camitlus, also on the same creek, has fifty dwellings, four stores, three tav- erns, a grist, saw, carding, and cloth dressing mill. Near the village is a quarry of gypsum, the first treasure of that kind found and used in this State by Canvass White, E«q. engineer on the Erie Canal, the son of Judge White, of Whitestown. A feeder one and a half miles long is here formed to con- nect with the Erie Canal. At the Oiisco, or Nine Mile Creek, six miles from Geddes, is an aqueduct and lock of eleven feet rise, and six miles be- yond is Canton village, fifteen miles from Syracuse, and has fifteen dwellings, three stores, and two taverns. Canton is the half way village between Albany and Buffalo, one hundred and eighty-three miles each way, and seventy-five from Uti- ca. The Otisco Lake is four miles long and half a mile wide, and sends forth a powerful stream, the Nine Mile Creek. Amber is near the !ale stage road, p. 60. At Klbridge, three miles south, are Indian remains on a hill, of three acres in extent, with a ditch and wall of earth. Ifere are sixty dwellings, three mills, three taverns, three stores. wxa Weedsport — Port Byron— Montezuma. 107 The next six miles introduces us to Weed's Basin or Weeds- port, seven miles north of Auburn, eighty-seven from Ulica, and twenty six from Syracuse; has one hundred and twenty ■dwellings, three forwarding houses, a Presbyterian and a Me- thodist church, ei^ht stores, three taverns, one furnace, one saw mill. This is a sort of port, and landing, and embarkation for Aiibarn^ and all that part of Cayuga County. Stages are in waiting to take passengers. (For Auburn, see stage road, p. 61.) Cenireport has twenty dwellings and a gro- cery, a short distance beyond the preceding place. Port Byron, three miles west of Weedsport, on the Erie Canal, has one hundred and forty dwellings, one Baptist Church, five stores, two taverns, two grist, four Baw, and an extensive merchant's mill, one distillery, one tannery, one carding and cloth-dressing mill. Here is a lock of nine feet fall, and an aqueduct over the Owasco Creek, of stone, of four arches of twenty feet each. Here are dry docks, and large boat-houses, for building an4 repairing ; and in four and a half miles we pass through a lock of nine f«et fall, and in one and a half miles are at another of seven feet fall, on the level of Seneca River. At Montezuma or Lakeport, there are forty dwellings, several groceries, a collector's office for ca- nal tolls, three taverns, one store. About one mile west of the village are the Cayuga or Montezuma marshes. The canal-boats for passengers time .heir arrivals and departure to meet the lake steam-boat to and from Ithaca at the head of the lake thirty-six miles south. The width of the lake is four miles, and its area eighty square miles. A ferry-boat plies across at Genoa, King's ferry. The shores of this lake are beautifully disposed to jdease the eye in going on its surface, or traveling on its borders. (See page 62.) The salt works at Montezuma, before alluded to, are near by, but are not very productive or profilabi^e. It is seven mile"! from this, south, to the Cayuga bridge. The rail-road from Auburn to Rochester is in course of construction, and will soon complete the line from Albany to Buffalo. From Montezuma we cross the Cayuga outlet by a tow- path bridge, and over the marshes, and then strike in by the valley of Clyde River, in a north-west direction for five miles, when we are in fVayne County, in the township of Galen, and at a lock of nine feet rise. VVe continue on for five miles in the same direction till we arrive at Cli/de Village, and a lock of five feet rise. Here are one hundred neat-looking Ji' I lOS Lyons-^Allowai/. dwellings, a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Baptist churcl^^ many stores and forwarding houses, a cylinder window-glas^ factory, two grist, two saw, and one cloth-dressing mill, e tannery, and a school, and three taverns. This is eight miles east of Lyons. Lock Berlin^ on the canal, has a lock of seven feet rise, ten dwellings, store, tavern, and smithy^ and a Quaker meeting. Thence four and a half miles brings us to Lyons, the capital of Wayne County, and to a lock of six feet rise, and to a change from the north bank of the Clyde, by a considerable detour round the base of a hill, passing the outlet of the Canandaigua Lake^ thai here comes in from the south, and uniting with Mud Creek, forms the Clyde River for forty-three miles, to the union with the Cayuga outlet at the marshes. At the confluence of Mud Creek and the Canandaigua outlet, and on the north bank , L v^ ons is situated, and has two hundred and fifty dwelling';" ; :, - ny of them and of the stores are of brick, spacious, r ; . fast increasing. It is situated on a plain bounded north and east by limestone ridges of gradual ascent, that gives a fine panoramic view of the village, the vale to the south-east, and of the confluent streams^ Here is a Presbyterian, a German Lutheran, and a Methodist church, a brick court-house and jail on a public square, a bank, capital $200,000, twenty stores^ five taverns, two printing-offices, a furnace, one fiouring^ one grist, one saw mill, one carding and cloth dressing mill. The canal of half a mile from the Canandaigua outlet on the south side of the river, gives a fall of nine feet and a large volume of water jthe greater portion is yet unemployed. A bridge is made to cross at this point. tSllowayi three mriles south of Lyons^ on the Canandaigua outlet; has two fiouring, two saw, two carding and cIoth-dress-< ing mills; two distilleries, one store, two taverns, one Baptist church, thirty dwellings. It has a good water power. The Erie Canal now crosses by an aqueduct and a lock of ten feet rise, over to the south bank of Mud Creek, and in four and a half miles are four locks, of eight feet rise each, and in one fourth of a mile, Miller's Basin. £leven miles more brings us again alongside of the Muu Creek at Palmyra, a town, or village, of 250 dwellings, three large canal basins, a Presbyterian, Episcopal, Methodist and Baptist church, an academy, a brewery, two tanneries twelve general stores, several groceries and druggists, a grii^t and saw mill, aprinting-ofiice — thirteen miles from Canandai* FullarrCt Basin — Great Embankment— Rochester. 109 •**^% ^ gua, twenty-nine from Rochester by canal, twenty-two by road. Ill one and a quarter miles from Palmyra the canal again crosses, by an aq^ueduct, to the north side of Mud Creek, and in two and a halt miles a lock of ten feet lift, «nd three quar- ters of a mile a second also often feet lift, in Macedon. Nina miles more bring us to FaUam^s Basin^ in Perrinlony Monroe County, through a marshy tract. At Fullam's, at the ex- tremity of the ridge, is a warehouse and tavern. It is 16 miles from this to Rochester by canal, and only eleven by land, and stages are in wailing for those wishing to cut across ; but no traveler should omit seeing once at least the great embank' mtnt over Irondeqnoit Creek, that in four miles is now passed nolens volens in two miles beyond Harlwell's Ba^in. This stupendous embankment of earth is 72 feet above Ihe creek, and is two miles long, thus carrying tho wondering 4ind astonished passenger in mid air, far above the meadows below, that may l»e viewed as a map. The construction of this work was one of great expense to the State, and the cause of much anxiety to the engineers, as to the results. A lock of ei^rht feet rise is passed, and then in two miles we arrive at Piltsford, a town of 100 dwellings, six miles south- 'east from Rochester ; haa a Presbyterian, a Baptist, and a Methodist church, a saw mill on the canal lock, four stores, three warehouses, one tannery. Oak openings begin to ap- pear in this and in Perrinton, as a new feature. Blossomville has a post office, a plaster mill, a Presbyterian church, a store and tavern, and fifteen houses. In six and a half miles we meet, at a chain of iive locks in Brighton, a rise of thirty-seven feet and a half, and ar*^ at the beginning of the second, or Genesee Long Level, of sixty-five tniles, that extends westward to Lockpnrt, in Niagara County. In three miles we cross the feeder of two miles long, tUutt tomes from the rapids, and are in tho city of. •• ■ ' > ^ Rochester, the capital of Monroe County. It is a port of entry for the Lake Ontario, Genesee district, in north latitude 43° — has t2,5O0 dweilinfis, many of tbt^e nnd four stories high, of brick, 10 ua Rochcsler^^ Great Aqueduct. and a population of about 17,000, embracing all the nU' chanic arts and professions. The residences of many of the inhabitants indicate wealth, taste, and comfort, having court yards, shrubberies and gardens attached. The settlement dates from 1812; the incorporation from 1S34. There are five wards, a court-house and jail of Jtone, six large hdtels, fourteen churches (two of correct and attrac tire architecture) of all sects, an arcade of six stori( s, con- taining the post office, athcneum, a hotel, and various other offices. There is a savings bank, and three banks with an ag- gregate capital of $950,000, seven newspapers, (two daily,) three bookstores and binderies, and a host of merchants, tra- ders, fo -'Jirding and commission houses, grocers, and me- chanics Oi v.inds. The streets are wide, and paved, and drained. 1 i bridges connect the east and west parts of the city, besides the great aqueduct^ eight hundred feet long, on eleven arches. The manufacture of flour is here the business of primary importance, from the well known and unequalled Ikcilities yielded by the falls in the Genesee River, two hundred and seventy-one feetf from this to the lake, that, at the English valuation of water power, would be SOj"? 18,272. This power is but partially employed at present; there are 24 flouring mills, with about 100 run of stones, that can make 60 (to 100) barrels each per day, equal to 5,280 a day, or 1,746,000 per year. 400,000 have been produced, amount $2,700,000. There are 11 large saw mills, nine large machine shops, that use water power for turning, stone cutting, grinding dye woods and bark, grain for distilleries, &r. making edge tools and carpets ; of these marts of labor and industry, the Globe is the most extensive and curious, a cotton and three woollen factories. The value of capital invested in mills and ma- chinery is about $750,000, and that required for conducting at $2,000,000, and the returns at three millions and a half; amount of merchandise sold annually, over two millions. Ex- ports by the lake, near a million. The situation on the canal and river, and with the various rail-roads branching like arteries to various directions, and pulsating with the most active commerce, and alive with pas- sengers, and the canals with boats and merchandise, im- presses one with a vivid belief in the general prosperity. The Tonnawanta rail-road of 32 miles to Batavia, is de- 1-^ ■. Genetee Falls. scribed at p. &(i. A short rail-road also extends to Port Gene- tee, seren miles, and to Charlotte ; and anothei one from Scotts- ville, a village of 120 houses, four churcheii, five mills, 15 miles south on the river, up the valley of Allen's Creek, through Wheatland, 10 miles, and then to Caledonia, and will be even- tually to Le Roy, and west to Batavia, for the benefit of the farmers and millers )n the route, and to connect with the ca- nal from Rochester to Olean, on the Mleghany River. This canal pursues the valley of the Genesee on the west bank, keeping: along the edge of the low grounds near the base of the hills, to be above inundation, but avoiding the too great sinuosities, and crossing the Genesee by an aqueduct at Mount Morris to the east side, from whence it goes south to Olean, on the Alleghany, (a branch leading off to the south-east, up the valley of the Canasoraga Creek to Dansville, and to Bath and Painted Post, to unite with the Chemung Canal at New- town.) The Genesee is navigable for small boats 53 miles to Mount Morris, and a steam-boat plies to Avon, 20 miles. The lake steam- boats come up to Carthage, two miles north of the Erie Canal, near the falls Here are 60 dwellings, and an inclined plane from the landing-place to the warehouse 160 feet above, with machinery, the steps are 237 ; the rail- road from the city eti'S here. The bridge of one arch of 353 feet cord, and versed sine 54 feet, summit 196 feet above the water, length 718, width 30 feet, was put up in 1819, and fell down in 1820, with a crash, after a heavy loaded wagon and four horses, and a gig had just crossed. It cost $27,000. There are two grand falls of the Genesee: the first, about , a quarter of a mile below the aqueduct, is 96 feet, in three distinct sheets ; and below this the river is broad and deep,.. with occasional rapida for a mile and a half to the second fall' of 20 feet, thence it extends for 400 feet over a rough bed, and gathers its waters for the last and final leap of 105 feet per- pendicular ; thence are rapids to the head of sloop navigation ;l the ravine throughout, from the upper to the lower fall, be-,' ing a deep, narrow, rocky gulf, of over a hundred feet deep ; the country on both sides being even to the lake shore, and in going from east to west, no indication is given of an ap- proach to Ruch a deep indentation in the surface of the earth until we are close upon its brink, and in this particular it con- forms to the features of the Niagara below the falls to Lewis- ton and Queenston. Steam-boats that ply from Niagara along the south shor* tl (J ''ff 1 .\| 1 112 Holley Embankment — Sandy Creek, III of the lake to Oswego, and SackeH's Harbor, and Ogdens- burgh, also look into this river, and land and receive pnssen- gers. 1 ho ridge road from this to Lewiston is 80 miles, parallel with the lake shore, and either by this or some other mode, (of steam-boat to Niagara River, or of canal to Lock- port, or any way that will bring the traveler in such a direc- tion to this frontier, as that he may catch the first view of the cataract in going up, either from Lewisfon or Queenston,) the traveler should approach Niagaia till the spectacle sud- denly bursts upon him in all its panoramic glory, when be- held in front, or coming from the north. In our opinion this is preferable to making the approach from the rear, or south, and then coming round to the front. There arc six basins or stopping places at short distances between Rochester and Brockport, viz. King's, six and a half miles; Webber's, two and a half beyond ; Kilborn's, one and a half; Spencer's, one and a half, within a mile or two of Parma on the ridge road; then Webster's, one; Bates', two, at the embankment over Salmon Creek; Cooley'p, two and a half; Brockway or port, two and a half. This is a town of 300 to 400 houses, many of ihem of three and four stories high, of bi ick or freestone, seven or eight commission warehouses, taverns, stores, in the customary abundance and variety ; one Presbyte- rian, one Baptist, and one Methodist church, of stone and brick, with steeples, also an Episcopal congregation, five schools, a laige college building of five stories high, a grist mill, two tanneries, and machine factory. This is a large wheat purchasing mart. At the end of the next five miles occ^urs the Holley cm- hankment of 76 feet Ijieh nimve the creek, before entering the villnge that contains 70 dwellings, many of brick, on six streets, a Bup(i&. and a Pre^b3 terinn church, three mills, a furnnce, a woollen factory for making flannels and cloths, besides stores and taverns. Sandy Creek, at the junction of the two main branches, has four mills, four stores, three taverns, one tannery, and 25 dwellings. North P/Iurray has a Boptist church, two stores, a tavern, and 10 dwellings. Scio, on the canal, six miles east from Albion, has a Meihodift rliiiich, a mill, store, a tavern, and 20 dwcllinirs. Sniith'8 Basin is six and a half miles west of Holley, and is the halfway ba*in. Gaines' Bcisiii, one and a half miles north of Albion, has 12 dwellings, a warehouse, and three stores. Gaines' Village has 50 dwellings, three Otter Creek— Albion. 113 miles north-west of Albion, two chutches, two taverns, four dry goods, one tannery, one ashery. Fair Haven, two and a half miles north of Albion, haa 15 dwellings, a store, tavern, and Universalist church. OUer Creek embankment is 65 feet high, and in 1|^ miles ii another long' embankment at Clark's Brook of 15 feet high, and in three miles is the Fish Creek embankment, and ai arched road-way under the canal. The village of Oak Or CHARD is 3^ miles off to the right, on the ridge road, and hai 10 dwellings, two taverns, a store, grist, and two saw mills. The aqueduct over Oak Orchard Creek has an arch of 60 feet sp^n, and here comes in a feeder of half a mile long. Thfl Oak Orchard Creek has a fall near the canal of 30 feet near Medina. The Oak Orchard rises on the table land, south 35 miles, and runs north towards Lake Ontario, and joins it at Fish Bay. It flows through the great Tonnawanta swamp, that is 25 miles long east to west, and two to seven in breadth, an area of 50,000 acres, and occupies the submerged land south of the highest ridge 400 feet above Ontario. In rainy seasons this swamp is flooded deep, and drains but slow. An open aqueduct or feeder of four and a half miles is cut through marsh, and part of the way through solid rock, by^ which the upper waters of the Tonnawanta, that would other- wise be absorbed in the Niagara, are now diverted in part to the north, and led to the Oak Orchard Creek, that through the marsh was sluggish, and before this tapping of the Tonna- wanta, was in the summer of no importance ; its mass has now been greatly increased, and is made use of for hydraulic purposes, as after breaking through the barrier on the north it is rapid, and has a smooth, rocky bed, and in leaping over the ridges, forms some beautiful cascades. Alhim,^ the capital of Orleans County, has grown up since 1823, is on the canal near the centre of the county, 35 miles from Rochester, 50 from Buffalo, 28 from Lockport, 18 from Butavia, and 10 south of Lake Ontario. It has 2*20 dwellings of brick and wood ; some are large and neat. The public square is decorated by a court house of brick with th^ county omees ; a Presbyterian and a Methodist church, and a school for females. It has a bank, capital $200,000, 13 dry good», one book, one hardware, two drug, and many other stores, also tanners, ashery, grist, saw, and cloth and carding mill, a furnace, five taverns, various mechanics, nine lawyers, fiv« physicians, two newspapers. 10* ;i * n 114 Medina— Barre Centre— Middleport. s:; ■■/ Medina is 10 mifes west of Albion, and hns 250 dwe11inj?fi, a Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, and Episcopal church, 10 dry goods, a brewery, a tanner, a carding and ch)th dressing, a shingle factory, three taverns, a high echoo), and seminary for ladies, a newspaper, he. This a business-like and growing village. Ea^le Harbor^ three miles west of Albion, has 15 dwellingfl, a IVIethodist church, three stores, and a warehouse. 'p Barre Centre, three miles, and South Barre, six miles south of Albion, have 25 (iwellings each. Knowleaville, on the canal, six. miles west of Albion, has a BMpiist and Pres- byterian church, 30 dwellings, four dry goods, one drug store, a tanner, an ashery, two taverns. Shelby's Basin, on the canal, 13 miles west of Albion, has a Universalist church, a tavern, tannery, two stores, 12 dwellings. \-' Servos' Basin is 46 miles from Rochester, and in one quar- ter of a mile is the embankment over the middle branch of Oak Orchard Creek. JMiddleportf near the east line of Niagara County, 12 mites from Lockport, has 40 dwellings, three warehouses, four stores, two taverns, one Methodisi church, and an embank- ment over the west branch of Oak Orchard Creek. Gasport, on the canal six miles east of Lockport, has an inflammable spring which rises in the canal basin ; it has a few dwelling?, tavern, store, and a warehouse. One and a half miles west of Middleport is the embankment over Johnson's Cieek 26 feet high, and in three miles onward is the embankment over Eighteen Mile Creek, 20 ft^et, and in one mile is a basin. ! Eight miles from a basin, Royalton, brings us along the fool of the mouniain rihouses. There is an academy, and one peminary for males, and one for females, and many select and common schoo]s,several hotels in good repute, a bank, capital $100,000, a lyceum for literary and scientific purposes, a library, two bookstores, and numerous dry goods and groceries. The flouring business here also takes precedence, there being tour large mills with 24 run of stonrs that make annually 47,000 barrels of flour, worth $235,000. The great ahundnncc of water derived from Lake Erie, that is brought through the deep cut to the brow of the ridge, and all around the basin, is used in part for the following mills and factories, viz. one for sawing stone, one cotton and one woollen factory, two double gang saw mills, five single saws, one machine shop, two furnaces for forging and working iron, one set of machinery for making barrels, one window sash factory, one carding and cloth dressing mill. There are four wagon makers, and one coach do., six turning lathes, two chair factories, ten smiths, two gun smiths, two tin, cop- per, and sheet-iron workers, three newspapers. Ths waste water of the abc /e mills, and of the five combined or double , i 1 Lockport. locks of the sixty feot mountain ridge, after it has fulfilled its hydraulic operations in it8 descent to the basin, is there re- tained by a dam across the ravine, and forms tlie head or fountain to All the long or sixty-five mile level, and as such is chiefly rolied on, though the Oak Orchard, the Genesee, and other feeders are useful in their place. The upper village is about 80 feet above the level of the basin and long level of the canal, and this leads to many pic- turesque and pleasing sites, in disposition of houses, water,&c. In moving up in a boat to the head of the basin to enter the chain of double locks that are arranged in the most massive style, side by side, in huge chambers, with stone steps in the centre, guarded by iron railings on both sides for safety and convenience, the gates of the lock are closed after the boat is in the chamber, and the roaring and sudden influx of the water from the lock above, in three or four minutes raises the boat to the level of the next lock above, and this is re- peated five times, the adjoining side lock being, perhaps, em- ployed in letting a boat pass down the lock to the basin and canal. The boat having in this manner risen up 60 feet in Ave lifts, the passenger is astonished to contemplate before him a Tista of several miles, bounded on either hand by walls of the solid limestone roek, 25 to 30 feet high, and very ap- propriately called the Deep Rock Cutting at Lockport^ and this continues for several miles south, but gradually dimin- ishes in height as the rock dips under the soil, when we emerge at Pendleton, through a guard lock into the dark wa- ters of the Tonnawanta Creek, that by means of a dam at its mouth of four and a half feet, that backs the water and raises it to a level with Lake Erie, is, for 12 miles from this, as still and sluggish as a canal, and is 120 feet wide and 16 feet deep, with a tow-path on its south bank, and in this 12 miles is only a descent of one foot. This creek is the boundary of Niagara and Erie Counties, and rises in the south part of Gene- see, and has a course of north-north- west and west for more than 80 miles to the Niagara River, opposite Grand Island and the new village of Tonnawanta, with its mills and 20 houses, &c. From the dam here are outlet locks from the Erie Canal to the Niagara River. The East Boston Company, proprie- tprs of Grand Island, are interested in this place, and also own White Haven, on Grand Island, where they have 60 fami- lies and 200 workmen, a steam grist mill and saw mill 150 ■i:i:!iL,4CJLttii&''^,. iV;i EUicoiVt Creek— Black Rock. 117 feet squnre, with room for 15 gangs of lawi, a building used for school and churcii, a wharf, and a dock for floating timber. Ellicott's Creek comes into the Tonnawanla just above the c!am. Turning round to the south and leaving the Tonnawanta behind, we advance along the banks of the clear blue Niagara (here 100 rods in width over to Grand Island) on the one hnnd, and the higher hanks of the Erie Canal on the east, passing the Long Meadows at Two Mile Creek, and in six miles are at the lower end of Black Rock Harbor, and the sloop lock and mills, Skajocketa Creek, and Squaw Island, and the mole, then one mile to Black Rock, one to the upper end of the mole at Bird Island, and one and a half to Bvffalo city, the queen of the lakes. Black Rock has 350 dwellings, is three miles from BuflTalo, and is opposite to the village of Waterloo and Fort Erie, (in ruins ) The River Niagara, or more correctly perhaps, the St. Lawrence, is here near one mile wide and 26 feet deep, and has a current of six miles an hour, is of a sea green color, and has a ferry to the Canadian shore. The mole, a crib 18 feet wide, filled with stone, that extends from Bird Island north, and forms the harbor, (88 to 220 yards broad,) is 4,566 yards long, nearly parallel lo the east shore, thus ibrming a nariow bui secure refuge inside of the break- water, of an area of 136 acres, and raisiing the water at the lower part of the dam four feet, that could be used for 100 mills, that no drought or season could ever aftect. There are now one flouring mill, one grist of two run, two saw, u stave, and cardmgand fulling mill, one iron foundery and steam engine factory, a distillery, and grinding mill, and at Squaw Island, a saw and shingle mill, and a glass factory. ti ■ *i* • ♦ r- 1 A rail road of three miles on the low hank at the harbor's side leads to BulTalo, and the rail road from Cuflalo to the Falls of Niagara is on the upper bank. The town plat em- braces 1,212 acres. In the mania for speculating in 1836, an associution purchased the property of P. B. Porter, of 400 acres of land, house, factories, m ater power, &c. for $30(>,000. The State of New-Vork formerly owned a mile in width along the frontier, from Lake Erie to Ontario, that was not sold to the Holland Company. The floor of the lake ut the water's edge on the Canadian shore, nf'Mr Fort Erie, where the waves and surf act uith full effect, and where the indraught towards the river is very mmm 118 Outlet of Lake Erie. strong, if of limestone, extending by a gradual slope into the lake towards Buffalo. The desolating efTccts oi' war are yet ▼isible on the walls of this fortification ; some of the iron pills are still to be seen, deeply fixed in the thick limestone walls, that are blackened with smoke. From this position is a fine view of the lake, and of Buffalo, Black Rock, and of the American shore ; and in proceeding from Black Rock by the upper town towards Buffalo, is a still more extensive view of 'y, the grandeur of the lake, and of its iron-bound shores on the south, to the utmost extent of vision. The Erie Canal continues on from the Black Rock harbor 114 chains to Little Buffalo Creek in the heart of the town, with lateral branches through the lower town. A mole and pier of wood and stone extends 1,500 feet into the lake from the south shore of the creek, and at the ex- tremity of the pier is a light house 46 feet high, 20 in diameter at base, of yellow sandstone. Vessels of eight feet draught can enter this harbor, a mile in extent, and remain secure. A ship canal 80 feet wide and 13 deep, near the mouth of the creek, extends for 700 yards. ; The approach to this city of the lake is, either by Ian' or water, quite imposing, as its domes, turrets, steeples, ar <; successive streets and lake craft, are developed to our , and when it is considered that all we behold here has arisen from the industry and the labor of man within ten or twenty years, it is gratifying to any philanthropist as being the result of our free institutions. A marine hospital and rail-way are erected. Buflalo and Black Rock have a supply of water by a canal coming from the creek four miles above the city to its eastern limits, that has attracted to its borders a considerable popu- lation engaged in manufactures. Steam-boats for Detroit and the intermediate ports, and for Chippewa and the Falls, go daily. Much inconvenience to the trade on the canal, and to the commerce of Buffalo, is occasioned by the ice, that in April, or later, blocks up the harbor for several weeks, and this can, perhaps, only be obviated in part, by continuing the canal along the lake shore to Dunkirk or Portland, near the western border of the State. The great rail-road from Dun- kirk through the southern range of counties to the city of New- York, about 400 miles long, that is now in progress, is another cogent reason why this canal should be continued to the same terminating point. / For description of Buffalo see p. 69 and 70. mm^ mmfmm >l > ! /-'--^ "^,. •>i x.rN ■-, 'J u-,,. .... -..^ -I . ., . ^^ '■j'%;v "*■ I. ^ rf ' "*^« '*; ^: K ..r. .:r >--i. 7^ '>'. ., J:'4 •. »<■; * imiMiiliM' I ■^p ■: ■ .■ .•' -•r'ijns. I - M " ■ isl Pi s/< p:%* JSSiKi>.' ^mrnm mm DUM^MMUMpanp '^^immmmfwmmifiWWff'f* w mmm wmm § Erit and Junilion Canal. M m ^ w I*. -bv 'fj- .5 y. ,-, 1. i '^ <-'c '^) < - ■ i > % ■^'1^ s'K ^^, &►- \ THB ^RlMClPAIi PIiAC£S ON TUB CANAL, AND THEIR DISTANCE FROM EACH OTHER, •■ ■■■■■ ■: . :,j As adopted by the Canal Board. '\\ JErie and JTunction Canal* ■*?•' .x NAMES OP PLACES. Albany, Port Schuyler, Washington, (Gibbonsville,) West Troy, Junction, Cohoes, Lower Aqueduct, Willow Spring, Upper Aqueduct, Schenectady, Rotterdam, Phillip's Locks, Amsterdam, Schoharie Creek, Smithtown, (Auriesville,) CRughnawaga, (Fultonville,) Big Nose, Spraker's Basin, Cnnajoharie, . . • Fort Plain, . . Diefendorrs Landing, Minden Dam, (St. Johnsville,) East Canada Creek, Indian Castle, (Nowandaga Creek,) Fink's Ferry, Little Falls, . Rankin's Lock, (No. 7,) Herkimer Lower Bridge, Herkimer Upper Bridge, Fulmer's Creek, Morgan's Landing, DISTANCE FROM. o V .5 p. 5 1 1 « 1 3 6 7 4 r 5 3 5 2 3 7 2 3 3 3 2 4 2 3 2 3 4 1 1 1 I 5 6 7 9 10 13 19 26 30 39 14 47 52 54 57 64 66 69 72 75 77 81 83 86 88 91 95 96 97 98 u no 105 104 103 101 100 97 91 84 80 71 66 63 •>() 53 46 44 41 38 35 33 29 27 24 22 19 IS 14 13 12 e m 4> M u o 269 264 263 262 260 259 256 250 243 239 330 225 222 217 215 212 205 203 200 197 194 192 188 186 183 181 178 174 173 172 171 9 364 359 358 357 355 354 351 345 338 334 325 320 317 312 310 30' 300 298 '.J95 289 287 283 281 273 269 288 267 277 rr^ 120 Erie and Junction CanaL ■''^■- .'T- NAMES OP PLACES. h) U;.' Steel's Creek, . ; • . Frankfort, .... FergUBOuVi > . . . . Utica, . . . . » * York Mills, (Wetraore's,) . . Wh'tesboro' . . Oriskany, ' Rome, ..... Woofl Creek Aqueduct, (Fort Bull,) Hawley's Basin, . . . Stoney Creek, . . . , Now London, .... Higgina', . . . . . Looniis', ..... Oneida Creek, (Durhamville,) < Canaetota, .... New Boston, (Canasaraga,) . Chitteuarign, .... Pool's Brook, * . . Kirkville, Little Luke, .... Man I i us, (Reels,) Limestone Feeder, . , Orville Feeder, . , Lodi, ..... Syracuse, Geddes, ..... Belisle, Nine Mile Creek, . , Camillus, .... Canton, ..... Peru,' ...... Jordan, ..... Cold Spring, . . Weedsport, .... Centre port, Port Byron, .... Montezuma, (Lakeport,) . Lockpit, . >■<* ' 't"* i Clyde, Lock Berlin Lyons, Lockville, .... Newark, ..... , Port Gibson^ .... DISTANCE FROM e • a ** >; >, ao 6 lace plac( a a ja • «4 3 3 On < E> (4 PQ 1 99 11 17U 265~ 2 101 9 168 263 <) 107 3 162 257 3 no 159 254 3 113 3 156 i.'5l 1 114 4 l."^i5 250 3 117 7 152 247 8 125 15 144 239 2 127 17 142 237 2 129 19 140 235 1 130 20 139 234 2 132 22 137 m 4 136 26 i;j3 228 2 138 28 131 226 3 141 31 128 222 5 146 36 123 218 4 150 40 119 214 3 153 43 116 211 3 156 46 113 208 2 158 48 ill 20ft 2 160 50 109 2(14 2 162 52 107 202 1 163 53 106 2(11 2 1(55 55 104 19!) 5 170 60 99 194 1 171 61 98 193 2 173 63 96 191 4 177 67 92 187 1 178 68 91 180 1 179 69 90 185 5 184 74 85 18i) 2 186 76 83 173 4 190 80 79 174 1 191 81 78 173 5 190 86 73 168 1 1«7 87 72 167 2 199 89 70 165 f? 205 95 64 159 6 211 101 58 153 5 216 106 53 US 5 221 111 48 143 4 225 115 44 139 6 231 121 38 133 1 232 122 37 132 3 S35 125 34 129 Junction and Erie Canal. 121 ilOM u o «-* (O o Si 3 u td o 3 Pi PQ 170 265 168 263 162 257 159 254 156 t.'5l 155 250 152 247 144 239 142 237 140 235 130 234 1:J7 232 i:j3 228 131 226 128 222 123 218 119 214 116 211 113 208 ill 20b 109 204 107 202 106 2ol 104 199 99 194 98 193 96 191 92 187 91 186 90 185 85 180 83 178 79 174 78 i:3 73 168 72 167 70 165 04 159 58 153 53 US 48 143 44 139 38 133 37 132 34 129 ^ DISTANCE 1 J-ROM NAMES CF PLACES. o • a • es o as 43 • o 3 , U (9 es u w € E^ Xi o Pi 29 3 Palmyra, 5 240 130 124 Macedonville, 4 244 134 25 12a Wayneport, (Barrager's Basin,) 3 247 137 22 117 Perrinton, (Lindol'i Bridge,) . 3 249 139 20 115 Perrinton Centre, (Col. Peter's,) 2 251 141 18 113 Fairport, . . . . • 1 252 142 17 112 Fullam's Basin, 1 253 143 16 111 Busbnell's Basin, .... 3 256 146 13 108 Pittsford, 3 259 149 A 10 105 Biilinghast's B^sin, 4 263 153 6 101 Lock No. 3, 2 265 155 4 99 Rochester, 4 269 T^g U 95 Brockway's, 10 279 ri9 10 85 Spencer's Basin, . . • . 2 281 171 12 83 Adams' Basin 3 284 174 15 80 Cooley's Basin, .... 3 287 177 18 77 Brockport, 2 289 179 20 75 Hoiley,- 5 294 184 25 70 ocio, 4 298 188 29 66 Albion, 6 304 194 35 60 Gaines' Basin, ..... 2 306 196 37 58 Eagle Harbor, . . 1 307 197 38 57 Long Bridge, 2 309 199 40 55 Knowlesville, 2 311 201 42 5:1 Road Culvert, 1 312 202 43 52 Medina, 3 315 205 46 49 Shelba Basin, 3 318 208 49 46 Middleport, 3 321 211 52 43 Reynold's Basin, .... 3 324 214 55 40 Gasport, 2 326 216 57 38 Lockport, 7 333 223 64 31 Pendleton, 7 340 230 71 24 Welch's 2 342 232 73 23 H. Brockway's, .... 4 346 236 77 18 Tonnawanta 6 352 242 83 12 Lower Black Rock, 8 360 250 91 4 Black Rock, 1 361 351 92 3 Buffalo, 3 364 354 95 11 »"l • ■y'l 132 Champlain Canal. CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 9 • ♦ // NAMES OF PLACES. Albany, West Troy, Junction, Waterford, Mechanicville, . Stillwater Village, . Bleecker's Basin, Wilber's Basin, Van Duzen's Landing, Schuylerville, Saratoga Bridge, Fort Miller, . Moses Kill, Fort Edward, Glenn's Falls Feeder, Baker's Basin, Smith's Basin, • Fort Ann, Comstock's Landing, Whitehall, Whole distance Erie Ceial, .^^JhK* - ^o. Champlain do. DISTANCE rROM ^-J 2 . • >> -s il a a •a •3 < '^ 73 7 7 66 2 9 64 3 12 61 8 20 53 4 24 49 2 26 47 2 28 45 5 33 40 3 36 37 2 38 .35 3 41 32 3 44 29 5 49 24 2 51 22 1 52 21 5 57 16 4 61 12 4 65 8 8 73 363 miles. 64 do. tv.. f .,; Houte and expenses from JVew' York to St, Ltouis, New -York to Albany, Albany to Buffalo, by Erie Canal, in packet boat, . ♦' " " " ia line boat, . Buffalo to Erie, by steam, Buffalo to Ashtabula by steam, Buffalo, to Cleveland, Ohio, by do Erie to Beaver, on the Ohio, by stage, including food, Beaver to Cincinnati, by steam, .... Cincinnati to Louisville, by steam Louisville to Shawneetown, by steam, Louisville to St. Louis, by steam, .... 50 cents to $g 00 do. 15 00 do. 9 00 do. 3 00 do. 4 50 do. 6 50 do. 5 50 do. 10 00 do. 3 00 do. 6 00 do. 12 00 • »> I 3 les. 73 66 64 61 53 49 47 45 40 37 35 32 29 24 22 21 16 12 8 1Ui9» $2 00 15 00 9 00 3 00 4 50 6 50 5 50 10 00 3 00 6 00 12 00 i ■ '., f ne2 •V-'i ■■ nd ;by 3na- six 300. t of nain urge ord- onal be- t of and ome roy, ning )aHy 000. ions I itm ^^^m VN ■ \ ^Pl Steam-boat Route to St. Louis, 123 SUam^boat route to 8t, Mjouts, via Ltdke JBHe, JTc. V above ll^OO miieB, 1 ■■ < ■ f-» ■ From Buffalo to Dunkirk, • , i Portland, ' , ' '" Salem, ' ' Ashtabula, Grand River, ■:., Cleveland, Huron, Sandusky, Detroit, I Mackina, Green Bay, Chicago, Stage coBches go from Chicago to St. Louis, 320 miles. do. to Galen, Wisconsin, is 160 miles, time 8 days and nights, stage fare $12 to $15. , > , ^ vf ^ ; '; ? » . • • • t • 45 miles. 60 90 180 135 / 165 ' vf 195 > 845 :^ 260 330 > 600 i^if'v 750 , 900 « 1 ;i :^i .:;-:; Route from Albany, Troy, Ballston, and Saratoga, to LalbLe George, Ticonderoga, and l¥liitehall. > The capital macadamized road of six miles, that leads by the side of the Erie Canal and the Hudson River to Gibbons- ville, and past the United States arsenal to West Troy, six miles, is one of the best roads in the State, and cost $90,000. The Arsenal is comprised within a very extensive plot of ground, bisected by the Erie Canal, and adjoining the main road, and consists of several fire-proof edifices, and large stores of small arms, and the various munitions of war, ord- nance shops, &.C. ; this is one of the most important national dep6ts, and is worth a moment's time of tbo traveler to be- hold, as the armory always contains an immense stock of small arms, arranged in glittering and imposing manner, and the relics of the revolutionary parks of artillery, and of some presented by the King of France, Louis 14th. fVest Troy has grown up rapidly, and is a suburb of Troy, and with it identified in interest and prosperity, containing , 500 dwellings and 3,300 inhabitants, employed principally in manufactures, with a bank of a capital of $150,000. There is an India rubber manufactory, and several operations * ■ iU 1 if' I >Wm 1 1: 1 \ »'■ 194 Troy. carried on that derive water power from the lurplui waters of tho Erie and Junction Canals, that by a side cut have an outlet here into the Hudson, and across the river to Troy, and the intercourse by means of ferries and the rail-road bridge is constantly kept up. One of the sprouts of the Mohawk passes under the bridge that loads from West Troy to Tibbitt's Island. The lower ferry near the arsenal loads across the Hudson, here one eighth of a mile wide, to Washington-street and the foot of Mount Ida on the east bank, 300 feet high, from which is one of the finest views and panoramic scenes on the Hudson. The mansion and grounds of John Hart and -— — Wilson oc- cupy the summit, and George Tibbitts the next one north. The middle ferry, passing beyond Liberty and Division- streets, lands at Ferry-street, and penetrates the central part of the city to the east. The next streets in a parallel direc- tion to the last, are in succession, Congress, State, Albany, Elbow, Grand ; the tsvo latter extending east past the Rens- selaer Institute, established by the late patroon, Stephen Van Rensselaer, Esq. for gratuitous education, by A. Eaton. The next in order are Federal-street, and the rail-road bridge, Jacob, Button, and Hoosack-streets ; from the latter, the capital macadamized road leads out north-east to Ben- nington in Vermont, 28 miles, and the company that con- structed it have the grant of laying rails on the same, con- nected with the rail-road to Brattleboro', on the Connecticut Biver ; thence is a road to Lowell, on the Merrimack, mak- ing a new route to Boston. The next streets north of Hoosick are Vanderheyden, Jay, Rensselaer, and North, (east of which is Mount Olympus, 120 feet high,) then Middlebury, Canal, and Dow-streets, and the water-works on the north, and the State dam of nine feet high, extending across the Hudson, and backing the water to Lan- singburg and Waterford, witi locks of a size to pass sloops. River-street is the principal thoroughfare next to the Hud- son, and contains the principal warehouses, stores, and shops, and some hotels; the Mechanic, the Troy, and Mansion houses ; the two latter on Albany and River-streets, the Franklin, corner of Elbow-street, and Washington Hall, cor- ner of Grand and Division-streets, and SiearrVs, near King- street, and the Northern Hotel between Jacob, and Hutton, and River, and Second-streets, the American, and the Na- tional. Troy. 126 Next to River>street on the east, nre streets named from FirMt to Seventh streets, and on First street is the bank of Troy, the Presbyterian and Scotch Presbyterian churcheg, and on the Second street is the celebrated Seminary for fe- maleSf so long and ably mnnaged by Mrs. VVillard, (lately re- tired, and succeeded by her son and daughterin-law, Mr. and Mrs. John H. VVillard, as joint principals, aided by 17 assistant teachers.) The terijs are $240 per annum. The Episcopal and Presbylerian churches are creditable and orna- mental edifices, as is the court house of marble, with pillars in the Grecian style. Troy has a population of 20,000, four banks, total capital $1,318,000, and three insurance companies $800,000, 12 churches, (four Presbyterian, two Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, one Roman Catholic, one Bethel, one Friends, one Universalist,) a market and. a jail, a lyceum of natural his- tory and cabinet of minerals, an asylum for orphans, and a house of industry, several daily and weekly papers, and many schools. The houses are of brick, there having been several large fires that have most used up the wooden ones, and the streets are paved, and ornamented with trees, and jets of water from the reservoir, that has a head of 76 feet, and supplies the city by iron pipes subterranean. The warehouses fronting the Hudson are lofty, and the enterprise, activity, zeal, and public spirit manifested by the citizens of Troy, in competing with Albany for the steam-boat business, and the canal and river trade, and in rail-roads to the Springs, and roads to the interior, evince the stamina of wealth and perseverance. As a residence either temporary or permanent, for business, or pleasure, or health, it has much to recommend it. It is in- corporated, and has six wards, a mayor, and 12 aldermen. The first house built in the village of Vanderheyden, as it was called in 1707, yet remains, corner of River and Division- streets. In 1787 there were but four dwellings, and the ground was covered with oaks and pines. The Poesten and Wynant's Kill, coming from the east, 'have a descent of 400 feet in four miles, of which 270 are in the city bounds, and give great power, that is used for a variety of purposes, by- four flouring mills (capable of making 100,000 barrels of flour yearly,) a wool and cotton factory, nail and spike factory, and rolling and slitting, one paper mill. Cascadilla, B^t\he ironworks one mile off, has 60 dwellings. 11* rrr J 26 Troy—Lannnghurg. There are also air furnaces, steam engine and machine fac- tory, breweries, tanneries, four large tallow chandlers, famous for making best tallow candles, two carriage factories, whpse stages are seen all over the United States, bell and brass founderies, three plaster mills, two burr mill stone factories, a shovel and spade factory, a rope walk, bleaching and col- oring works. There are 100 vessels owned in this place, and several of the largest steam boats on the Hudson, that carry yearly 23*2,000 tons of freight, and 10 tow boats that carry 66,000 tons, 160 canal boats, of 30 to 40 tons each, belonging to the Troy line to bring produce to this city direct, 67 cot- ton and 40 woollen factories are within the range and influ- ence of the Troy market to the east and north, and draw their supplies hence, and the water power that is still unem- ployed in this vicinity, that may be drawn from the Hudson and Mohawk, &c. is immense. A pleasant walk m'Ay be taken along the banks of the Poes- ten, and other kills, tracing them up to their summits, through narrow gorges or ravines, and cragged rocks, amid trees, and shrubs, and murmuring falls and cascades, wild, romantic, and picturesque. The great slide or land slip that took place from the dis- ruption of a hill to the east of, and immediately in the rear of Troy, in 1837, by which several lives were lost, is well worth viewing as a matter of curiosity, and though the ascent, by toiling up Congress street, past Mr. Tibbitt's, and thence to the right or south to Mount Ida, may be arduous, yet the view that will unfold itself to the eye is splendid, and cannot but be impressive. The alluvial flats at the foot of the hill are from a quarter to half a mile wide, and the arrangement of the city plat is into blocks of 400 by 280 feet, intersected by alleys. Fifteen of the streets range north and south, and 19 east and west, and are 60 feet wide, and graveled or paved, and lighted. Omnibusses and stagps are continually passing between Albany and Troy, for a fare of 12j cents each passenger. Lansingburg is three miles north of Troy, has 3,000 inhabit- ants, six churches, and 500 dwellings, principally on one street, and a bank. It is laid out in squares 400 by 260 feet, with alleys and wide streets, is opposite the mouth of the Mohawk, and the roar of the Cohoes Fails can be heard at night, and from the hills in the rear it can be seen at a distance of five miles vrest, beyond Van Shaick*s Island, where was the camp i Waterford— Rensselaer and Saratoga Rail-road. 127 of the Americans before the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga, in 1777, and here the army under Gen. Schuyler had en- trenched, and were to have made a last and desperate stand, if the enemy had thus far advanced. Famous good ale is here made by several establishments on a large scale, and there are 40 stores, and much business, and many mills and factories, slaughtering and packing houses, oil cloths, brushes and bellows, guns and rifles, machine cards, &c. The communication with the towns below, by hourly coaches, omnibusses, &c. make this almost a suburb of Troy. Waterford has four churches, 200 dwellings, population 2,000, and a bank with a capital of $100,000, several flour mills and manufactories that derive their water power from the Mohawk, and here are three locks of 11 feet, uniting the Champlain Canal to the Hudson and Mohawk. The bridge over the Hudson to Lansingburg, of 800 feet long,cost S70,000, was carried away in the great storm and freshet of 26th and 27th of January, 1839. This is the extreme head ofsloop navi- gation. The Cohoes Falls, on the Mohawk, that are else- where described, (see p. 88,) may be visited in a ride of three miles from this place, and the aqueduct over the Mohawk, and other scenes and points of importance. The Rensselaer tit} '1 Saratoga Rail-road starts in Troy from the vicinity of the fashionable hotels, the Troy House, and the Mansion House, at the junction of Albany and River-streets, and goes throurh River to Frederick-street, and thence crosses the Hudson by a covered bridge 1,600 feet long, on eight piers of cut stone, 30 feet above high water, and 34 feet wide, with a water way of 180 feet between erch pier, two of them rest- ing on Fish Island, thence to Tibbitt's or Green Island, and then assumes a direction to the north four and a half miles, passing over the delta and three branches of the Mohawk on bridges resting on substantial abutments of stone to Water- ford, thence following side by side with tne canal and the Hud- son River for eight miles to Mechanicsville, a village of a few mills and 60 dwellings, then crossing the canal, turns to the north-west up the valley, and past Round Lake in four miles, and in six miles from this, a creek, and for two miles it runs in close proximity to the Saratoga and Schenectady Rail-road, and enters Ballston Spa, and there uniting with the other road, both trains pass on to Saratoga, after a few minutes halt to discharge thoso passengers dcsiroug of remaining "■Kwi in Tlie Stimpson Farm — BalUton Springs. \'h at BalUton for a few days to test the exhilarating qualities of its famous medicinal waters, and enjoy the fashionable eo- ciety at the Sans Souci and the other hotels. Twenty-four miles from Troy, seven from Saratoga, 30 from Albany. There are three churches, a reading- room, a court house, a jail, a six story brick building intended for a cotton factory, several mills, six hotels and stores, 180 houses, and 1,100 in- habitants. It is situated in a vale, and a small creek winds its way through the centre, and has a succession of cascades, where art has added to the picturesque effect. The price of board is from three to eight or ten dollars a week. As there are two post offices in the town, travelers must be careful to have their letters and papers sent to Ballston Spa. The Stimpson Farm in Galway, of 1000 acres, is on a spur of a mountain 10 miles north-west of the spa in Ballston, and as boarders are received by the proprietor, and the farm is celebrated as a pattern, and is withal situated in a position overlooking a large extent oi'country, a visit to it, in making a circuit through the neighborhood, is recommended. ' By his method, four tons of hay and 100 bushels of corn to the acre have been realized. Galway Corners has two churches, four stores, 40 dwellings, and two public houses. West Galway, three miles further, has 20 dwellings, and a meeting-house for Quakers, Baptists, and Presbyterians. A ride on the plains between the Green and Mayfield Moun- tains, is a favorite excursion with strangers. The Sans Souci is the most prominent building in this vil- lage, and is of wood, with a front of 160 feet, and wings of 150 feet, and three stories high; that, with its broad piazzas^ and court yard tastefully embellished with trees and shrub- bery, its neat lawns, clean and well kept gardens and grounds, makes an agreeable impression on the traveler as the train takes a sweep through the village, crosses the Kyaderasserae, and he alights at this splendid hotel. The spring in the rear of the hotel, and that in the rear of the village hotel, and the original spring at the west of the village, contain, as essential ingredients, the carbonates of so- da, of lime, iron, and magnesia; the tonic qualities of the iron, and the sparkling and enlivening influence of the fixed air that they possess in an extraordinary degree, have a wonderful effect upon enervated, bilious, and debilitated constitutions. Balhton Lake— Saratoga Spring9. 129 Such is the salutary effect of these waters upon some, that an annual resort to them in summer is indispensable, but to strangers prudence would dictate that the advice of a resi- dent physician should always be obtained as to the quantity and mode of taking them. ' »- i-^^y^^- J^f* - Baliston, or Long Lake, is five miles south of the Spa, and is a fine body of pure water, five miles in extent north and south, and one wide, and yields good sp* rt to the votaries of old Isaac Walton ; and the same may be said of other lakes in this county and vicinity, such as Saratoga, Round and Owl Lakes ; the former is nine miles long by three wide, six south of Saratoga and six east of Ballston Spa ; and at the taverns on the west shore of the lake are good accommodations, and the necessary equipments for fishing, fowling, or sailing. The border of the Saratoga Lake is marshy and accessible but in few places, but soon rises into elevated ridges amphitheatri- cally, with some cultivation. Snake hill on the east shore is 200 feet high, and intrudes into the lake three miles from the south end. The argillaceous and graywacke slate composing its rock strata is remarkably contorted. The lake is supplied by the Kyaderasseras Greek that heads in the mountains a few miles to the north-west, and its outlet is Fish Creek, that joins the Hudson at Schuylerville eight miles east. (See index ) As the cars leave Ballston for Saratoga, the road curves to the north through the principal street over a bridge and an embankment, and then strikes off to the north-east over the creek, which course it continues to Saratoga. The line of this road of 21^ miles, passing the Ballston Lake as above described, is over a country so level as not to require an inclination over 16 feet per mile; its cost, from its cheap construction, being only $300,000, with engine, cars, &c. ; the sills of wood with iron plates. Saratog^a Springs, that are now so easily reached by rail-road from Albany or Troy, are situated on a broad street, on which are the princi- pal hotels, five churches and 250 dwellings. The hotels in most repute are the United Slates, an edifice of brick, 200 feet by 36, four stories high, with a wing of 60 feet en the north and three stories high, and another on the south ISO Conffress Hall'-^Pavillion— Union Hall, 8fC. III of 100 feet by 50, with commodious parlors and bed>rooms for families. The grand piazza in front extends and connects with that on the south and rear, and the ground and garden is most tastefully and pleasingly laid out, and admirably well kept, clean and attractive; the bouse can receive 300, and the dining and drawing rooms are capacious and elegant. There are about five acres attached to this establishment, with extensive stables, &.c. The house is kept by Seaman and Marvin. The Congress Hall is 200 feet in front and three stories high, with an attic, and has a wing of 60 and one of 100 feet. But the most striking and effective feature in this spacious edifice, and in fact in the entire village street, is the ample piazza in front, and its pillars of wood en- twined with evergreens in the happiest manner, with a flower garden in front of the colonnade, separated from the street by a neat railing. A pine grove and a garden in the rear are enjoyed from the back piazza. The construction is of wood, and can also receive 300. It is the nearest to the Congress Spring, the fountain of health, and has a gravel wrik and shade trees leading thereto. The Pavillion is of wood, and has a front of 136 feet, and a wing of 80, and one of 200 feet, with private parlors and lodging rooms, convenient for families. It is two and a half stories high with an attic, and a portico and collonade in front ; a large garden, with a small lake in the rear for fishing. The rooms are so arranged whh folding doors as to throw open the whole into one grand saloon, for dining or for balls and large assemblies. The Union Hallj opposite the Congress, 120 feet front and three stories high, with two wings of 60 feet, and a building adjoining of 1(K) feet, with private parlors and a garden in the rear ; kept by Putnam and Taylor. The Adelphi Hotel is brick, three stories high, near the United States ; kept by Mr. Cross. The Columbian Hotel, south of the Pavillion, has a garden. The Washington Hall, a retired house in the north part of the street, free from noise and dissipation. Boarding may be had from four to twelve dollars per week. Prospect Hall, one mile north-west, by B. Rt Putnam, and Highland Hall, half a mile south of the Congress, may be resorted to in case of need. The healing virtues of these waters to invalids was un- High Rock Spring. 131 folded by the aborigines to their friend and patron, Sir William Johnson, in 1767, when he was borne to the spring on a lit- ter, but by the use of the waters a few weeks, he was rein- stated in Ksal''i. At that time, bears, deer, wolves and moose abounded, beaver and salmon-trout sported in the stream, and the huts of the Indians were scattered in the valley. In 1783, Gen. P. Schuyler came from Fish Creek and spent several weeks under a tent with his family, near the High Rock Spring, and in 1789 G. Putnam came in, and with him and his descendants, and other settlers of that day, began the permanent settlement and improvements that have con- tinued to the present time. The High Rock Spring, rising as it does in a circular aper- ture to a certain height in the interior of a dome-shaped rock, elevated several feet above the surrounding level, would in any part of the world oe viewed as a remarkable curiosity ; but when accompanied as it is by the emission of such a quantity of fixed air, the deadly carbonic acid gas of the labo- ratory of nature, with the mysterious and alarming effect upon animal life that it exhibits, great indeed must have been the astonishment of the early discoverers. Even now its " grotto del cane,'* unseen cause, though understood and explained, is to the uninitiated a gaping wonder, that will attract for ever thousands of pilgrims and worshippers. In 1792, Mr. Gillman, a member of Congress, discovered the Spring that bears that name, issuing from an aperture in the side of a rock that bordered the little brook that rises from the earth 50 rods west, and for several years it could only be collected in small quantities as it came from the rock, only to tantalize the eager and thirsty recipient; attempts were made to excavate and search for its source, and for a time it was lost, and the goose that has since returned and placed itM golden egg beneath, fled for a time from the eager and prying curiosity of man, but the sagacious Putnam, observing, after a lapse of events, signs of gas rising through the water of the brook, turned the stream aside, and by digging eight feet through marl and gravel, recovered the sacred fountain, placed a tube of plank ten inches square rising to the surface, from whence flows the precious fluid in abundance — onegalion per minute — and can be increased by lessening the pressure in the curb. The temperature is 50° Fahrenheit. The analysis of Dr. Steel gives, in a gallon of 231 cubic inches of water, I f // 132 Columbian^ Washington, Hamilton Springs. chloride of sodium or sea salt 385 grains ; hydriodate of soda, 3.5; bicarbonate of soda, 8.983, bicarbonate of magnesia, 96.738 ; carbonate of lime, 98.098 ; carbonate of iron, 6.076 ; silex, 1.5; total, 597.943 grains; and of carbonic acid gas, 311 ; atmospheric air, seven ; total, 818 cubic inches. The gas affects respiration near the surface of the foun- tain, and iish and frogs when immersed in the water perish. The water is used in a fresh gaseous state in making bread, or in preparing hot cakes, in which sour cream is a compo- nent, ana forms an expeditious and palatable article. When first brought up from the tubes it is limpid and sparkling, but soon has a pellicle and sediment, and the glass has a stain; four to six half-pints in the morning before breakfast operate as a cathartic and diuretic, and give increased appetite and vigor. There aro 13 other springs that are all of nearly the same properties, and rise in the same valley, via. the Columbian Springs, the Washington, the Hamilton, the Flat Rock, and the High Rock, the President, 30 roils north, the Red Spring, 70 rods north-east ; the Barrel, the Walton, the Monroe, the Ten Springs, one mile east ; Ellis's, two miles south-west, issues hori;^ ontally, sparkling, clear, acidulous and chalybeate, and is esteemed for its iron ; its temperature is 48°. The third in the list is in the rear of Congress Hall, and the next in the rear of the Pavillion, 100 rods north-east, under a small Chinese temple over the well, that is 15 feet deep, and curbed. The High Rock is 100 rods further north, and is composed of lime, magnesia and oxide of iron, sand and clay ; its height, four feet , circumference at base, 26 feet eight inches ,* a line over the top from north to south, 11 feet seven inches; and from east to west, 10 feet nine inches; from the top of the rock to the surface of the water, two feet four inches ; depth of water, seven feet six inches; diameter of opening at top, 10 inches ; and from this sky-light opening a person may look into the interior formation of the dome, from whence, no doubt, the water formerly issued and deposited its sediment equally aroui^d in this tutfa formation. Bathing hou^'es may be found at the Washington, Hamilton, Putnam, and Monroe Springs. The enormous quantity of fixed air that is contained in the water of the Congress, to the sum of more than its bulk, cannot be equalled by any other in the world, and to this it is indebted for its celebrity.' v The amusements that a sojourner at Saratoga may enjoy, Sacondaffa Riter—Lakei^ i^* 133 besides the rides to the lakes and falls within a few mile*^ and the regular balls and evening parties at the various hotels, consist in a subscription to the excellent library and reading- room on the block north of the United States Hotel. The library is possessed of several thousand volumes, and the readiny-room supplied wilh 100 papers, periodicals, &c. and a register is kept of the arrivals and departures of the vast concourse of strangers that throng this place in the sultry months of June, July, and August. Mails from Boston, New- York, Philadelphia, Albany, arrive with great punctuality, and are closed daily at nine A. M. The same caution should be used here as at Ballston Spa, in having letters and papers directed to !^'*ratoga Springs, other- wise they go to, and remain at the other Saratoga Post-Office, twelve miles distant. The direct distance to Sandy Hill is 14j miles, or to Glenn's Falls on the Hudson 11 miles in a north-east direction, and ta those desirous of vie ving the splendid falls, Hadley'sand Jes- sup's, Glenn's and Baker's, that the pencil of Wall has sketched in the Hudson River Portfolio, it is suggested to those intend- ing to continue on to the north to Lakes George and Cham- plain, Montreal and Quebec, that by hiring a coach at Sarato- ga it will be but a slight variation from their route, to proceed in the first place to the upper falls in the town of Luzerne, about 13 miles from Saratoga, past Jessup's Landing to the junction of the Sacondaga wilh the Hudson at Jessup's Falls, and then crossing the Hudson at Jessup's Landing near and above Hadley's Falls, and continuing on to Glenn's at the in- tersection of the road from the souih to Lake George, and taking the host conveyances at Sandy Hill, the rail>road cars, or stages, to Whitehall ii2 miles, and the steam-boat down the lake to St. John's, Canada, 122 miles ; or else go from Sandy Hill or Glenn s Falls to Caldwell, at the head of Lake George, and by steam-boat 36 miles to Alexandria, en- joying the ravishingscenesthat are unfolded to the eye of the delighted tourist on this lake, the very beau ideal of all that is picturesque and beaufiful, and replete with scenes of the greatest historical interest to the well-read American citizen and patriot. The Sacondagahranch of the Hudson River is about 80 miles long. Its sources are in an elevated mountain region, em- bosoming a system of lakes, the Piseker, the Oxbow Round, and Pleasant Lakes, that may be reached by following up the 12 If! i \ I l\ m Lake Plea»anl— Stillwater— Bemu»* Heights . Saconda^a valley from the fish-house in Brondalbin, and up to Lake Pleasant, the Long Lakes, and others in the wild cen< tral regions of Hamilton County, itself worthy of a distinct exploration on foot, and of a detailed description ; the other branches of the Hudson will be alluded to hereafter. Leaving Saratoga, and taking the road that leads east and crosses Fish Creek, the outlet of Saratoga Lake, we arrive in eight miles at its junction with the Hudson, and on the arena where was enacted some of the most important events in the drama of the revolution, and we diverge in part from the regu- lar route, to trace back the chain of military results that transpired in this vicinity. An overwhelming British force under Gen. Burgoyne had succeeded in penetrating from Canada into the heart of the state of New- York in powerful array, carrying in their pro- gress the strong works at Crown Point and Ticonderoga, and arriving at Whitehall, the southern termination of Lake Champlain, flushed with victory, began to form a road through the wilderness to Fort Ann, and traces of it yet remain, and from thence advanced down the Hudson valley, driving all before them, to Stillwater, at which place a severe action oc- curred on the 17th September, 1777, that broke the charm of invincibility, and caused the enemy to retrace their steps, but the clustering and gathering of the regular troops and militia hernmed in and prevented the advance or retreat of the gallant foe, and finally caused a capitulation on the 17th October. On this field the traveler may look down upon, from the hotel, it being the meadow on the margin of the Hudson and Fish Creek, where are distinct remains of Forts Hardy and Schuyler, the latter being- a furlong to the south-east, over- looking the river and creek, the northern or Champlain Canal being adjacent, and the residence of the Schuyler family, and the owner of the cotton factory, and the village known as Sckuylerville. At Stillwater and en Bemus' Heights, two miles west of the river, was the fierce and sanguinary struggle between the British forces and the Americans, that on the 19th September and 7th October decided the fate not only of the defeated army at that time, but, by its moral effect and animation, led, perhaps, to a succession of triumphs, and the establish- ment of the independence of a great nation, and that in its future results and influences will be extensive as the civilized world. Stillwater— Bemut' Heights. 135 The right wing of the British army, consisting of light troopsi kept along or near the summit of the ridge as they advanced to the south, and commanded and overlooked the plain beneath, while the heavy artillery and baggage contin- ued by the road that runs near to and parallel with the river, while the Americans advancing to the north to meet them, had their right wing and guns on the river road, and their left wing and skirmishers and riflemen on the heights, and this was the respective positions of the armies when the onset commenced. Much of the battle*ground was interspersed with trees, of which but a few are living, but there was also some more open grounds, and such was the aspect of the spot designa- ted as FreemarVsfarm m the dispatches of that day, and such it remains, as also does a trace of the British encampment. The road extends across the farm from east to west at right angles to the main road north and south, and just to the east of I his intersection was the hottest of the fight, and a few rods south of a blacksmith's-shop close to a fence, Gen. Frazer, the second in command, fell by a rifle shot from one of Morgan's corps. The head quarters of Gen. Gates are seen hairf a mile south. The pathetic scenes thai took place amid the wounded and dying, and that have been so feelingly and graphically de- picted by the dramatic and gentlemanly penof Burgoyne, and the female tenderness of the Baroness Reidesdel, occurred in a dilapidated antiquated dwelling, painted red and yellow, with the entrance and end facing the river, it having been re- moved from its original position that was a quarter of a mile south-west. Nearly all the river hills west of the Hudson from Bemus' Heights to Fort Miller, twelve miles, have some remains of the hasty ramparts thrown up by the contending armies ; and there are also some above and on the east of the river, that may be seen from the canal and stage road. A mile and half above Schuylerville, the Battenkill comes in to the Hudson from the east, its sources being at the base of the Green Mountains in Vermont twenty miles distant, and also a portion from the Big Pond ia Argyle; it has a rapid current and several falls, and one three miles from its mouth of 60 feet, that in freshets is worth beholding. There is a bridge over the stream near its mouth, and one over the Hud- ' // i 136 \ \ Fort Edward— Baker^i Falls. fion from Northumberland to Greenwich, near the rapids or Saratoga Falls, throe miles below Fort Miller. At Fort Miller ig a church, a mill, a tavern, store, and 80 dwellings, and hereabouts it was that Gen Burgoyne pass- ed his troops over to the west side as he was forcing his way down to the south, to reach New- York or Albany. At Fort Edward, near llie great bend of the Hudson as it crosses over Glenn's and Baker's Falls, are three locks on the canal of 10 feet each, and the ruins of the fort built in 1755, by Gen. Lyman and Johnson, at the old landing or carrying place to Wood Creek. The walls were formerly thirty feet high, and defended by cannon, with a deep fosse in front, and in the French war was a post of importance as the medium and connecting link with Lake George, and here Burgoyne and his army waited six weeks for provisions to come on from the lake in his rear, and thus lost the best part of the season for his military operations. The former seat of war and watchfulneRS is now changed to a peaceful and pleasant lin, fair and fertile, with 100 dwellings, a church, two hou s, a tavern, nine stores, three mills, a distillery, and two breweries. The great dam above the village and ruins of the old forti- fication is 27 feet high and 900 feet across the river, and throws an ample supply of water info the feeder of the canal, besides forming a cascade, from its height and width, of considerable magnificence. Below the dam is an island and two bridges of 500 feet each. The village is supplied with water from a fine spring on the hill a quarter of a mile east, near the fatal spot that witnessed the tragical death of Miss M'Crea in 1777, that was here murdered by the two savages that had been employ- ed by her lover to take her to a place of safety, and quarreled about the promised reward, and in their fury she fell a sac- rifice. Above the dam, the canal extends twenty-one miles north- east to Lake Champlain, at Whitehall, its summit level being only 51 feet above the Hudson, and 30 above Lake Cham- plain, and 127 feet below Lake George. Baker^s Falls commence at the bend of the river where it winds around to the south in a deep ravine in the rock of limestone, the descent being 7t> feet in 60 rods, the water rushing with great fury in and through numerous serpen- tine channels and deep excavations that it has bored and , I Sandy Hill—GlennU Falli, 137 worn into the rock, but having no perpendicular fall, but a variety of chutes, that are exceedingly varied and imposing at particular stages of the water, as influenced by the seasons, and may he advantageously viewed from a projecting rock on the east shore below the mills. Sandy Hill, where the rail- road from Saratoga to Whitehall crosses tiie Hudson on a viaduct of J, 100 feet long, is a half shire village of 110 dwellings on a high sandy plain adjacent to Baker's Falls, and is a pleasant and healthy site, has a Presbyterian and Episcopal church with cupolas, and two Congregational, a Methodist and Catholic, without} there are seven mills, two good hotels, two furnaces, 10 stores. The streets are arranged upon a triangular plat, having an open, ornamented and neat enclosed area, with elegant and comfortable houses and the county buildings, the courts being held alternately here and at Salem. — From this place to Glenn's Falls, three miles west, is a road on the high bank of the river, so level, beautiful, and pleasant, that few can exceed it, both villages being in sight. Glenn's Falls are next encountered ; the village has 130 dwellings, two churches, the hotel and three taverns, eight stores and groceries, 31 mechanics' shops, a printing-office and paper, six lime-kilns, 11 mills, some for sawing the black and variegated marble, that is here found, into slabs, and others for lumber and shingles : the marble quarries are extensive, and the price is 75 cents the superficial foot in New-York. The falls have a total descent of 70 feet, at first in one angular mass of 900 feet wide and five feet fall, the whole width of the river, that, when in full flood, descends with a grandeur, tumult, and foaming rage, that excites awe and admiration in the beholder, as it is con^ templated from the bridge in passing; at a low stage of the water the scene is remarkably changed, and could hardly be recognized as It plunges into the crevices, caves and sinuosi^ ties of the dark and irregularly formed rock, and again issues forth in jets and boiling or whirling forms, or glides with ra- pidity over slopes worn to a polished surface by the abrasion of the waters. The general face and aspect of the fall is to the east, and after it shoots under the bridge and partly through caves and water-worn excavations under the traveler's feet, and in seams of the horizontal secondary limestone, well worth exploration as the source and scene of legends and frightful Indian tales, the water extricates itself from its laby- 12* * . '■! I ■■ .: • »'■ •^\f 138 Jessup^i and Hadley^i Fallt. riathine concCKlments in the dark and masgivo rocks, and ii received into the bed of the river below, under the frowning face of impending towering- precipices, and escapes over a series of rapidathat has caused a wide, vast, and deep gorge in the rocky hills almost as regular as an artificial cut in the solid rock, and exposing the stratification to the easy examina- tion of the geologist, and the trilobites and organic remains are seen in perfection. A feeder and a branch canal seven miles long, extends from the Hudson two miles above Glenn's, where is a dam across the Hudson of 12 feet high and 770 feet long, that fills the canal as it passes through Glennsville and Sandy Hill, and feeds the Champlain Canal, that it enters in Kingsbury, two miles above Fort Edward, where there are thirteen locks. Jessup^s and Hadley^s Fallsare the next distinguished objects to attract the attention of the traveler devoted to the admira- tion of the picturesque and beautiful in nature. The first is ten miles beyond Glenns Falls, and the second occurs within the next five miles, and may be conveniently examined by starting in the morning either from Sandy Hill or Saratoga, and returning tho same day, with ample time to spend a few hours at either spot. As the country in that direction is rather wild and unsettled, it may be advisable to make provision for a rural (He champ^tre to enliven the party. The first fall exhibits the entire volume of the Hudson in one grand cataract of 100 feet ; the next it is seen leap- ing through the rocky gates of the mountains, that appear to have been cloven to admit its passage ; and to a person viewing it from below, it appears to come bounding down the jagged, irregular, gigantic barriers with irrepressible fury, and a magnificence and variety endless, bewitching, and inde- scribable. The road from Luzerne or Glenn's Falls to Lake George is a yellow pine plain, soil sandy, rather barren, and destitute of interest until we approach within three miles of the head of the lake, before overtopping the rising ground seen in front, where the road passes by a crater-like or bowl-shaped pond on the east, in close proximity, deep, dark, and dismal, its unruffled surface covered with the pond-lily, and its depths lined with the bones of tho soldiers that perished in the con- flicts on its borders, and that were here thrown in, and ever since called the Bloody Pond. In proceeding from Fort Edward to Lakes George and Cham- Lake George, 139 plain, we pais in review ground consecrated in history, not only by the war of our independence and the Americun revo- lution, but also in those murderous affairs and sanguinary conflicts of previous years, when the hordes of French troops issuing from Canada, aided by infuriate savage demons, car- ried terror and destruction along the whole northern frontiers. It is our purpose to describe lirst the events and the scene- ry connected with Lake George and Ticonderoga. and then to give the canal and rail-road route from Sandy Hill to Whitehall, and down the lake to intersect the other route, and pass along its surface and by its shores to Canada. The traveler, while musing on the scenes that have been enacted on this border within eighty years past, amid the gloomy forest through which he proceeds for two or three miles, arrives at the crown of a loflg and tedious ascent, through the vista of mountains that have accompanied hia progress for several miles ; those on the east being elevated, and in some places denuded of vegetation ; those on the west being more depressed, but clothed with the remains of the native forest ; when at the precise and most advantageous pinnacle the curtain of the forest is withdrawn, and the clear- ed spot unfoldfl to the astonished and enraptured gaze of the tourist the full and glorious scene. The Lake is expanded beneath his view to more than half its extent, with a beauty and lustre emanating from its surface of a transparent cerulean hue that fills the mind with rapture ; the first glance and the deep impression can never be obliterated from the imagination of the ardent and sensitive traveler; the splendid frame-work of mountains that enclo- ses the lake and its beautiful islands, and that forms a back ground of extreme beauty and finished excellence, the noble promontory that it puts forth on the north, of 1,5()0 feet high, and seen at 14 miles distance, with the softened hue that harmonizes with the receding perspective, terminated on each side by the deep bays or prongs that gird, on the north- west and north-east in diverging lines, the base of this noble headland or promontory, is the complete realization of eager expectations of all that is exquisite in lake scenery. Lake George, or Sacrament, as it was termed by the French, from the unrivalled and admirable clearness and purity of its waters, that induced them to use it for religious purposes, baptism, he. is 34 miles long and from one to four broad, (average perhaps about two) for 20 milee, is, more or less, if I SN II .. 140 Caldwell-'Natural Bridge, from the promontory referred to, ornamented with an archi« pelago of islands of the most fanciful, varied, and lovely forms, that loaves no taste ungratified. Caldwell — the village at the head of the lake at its south- west corner, with its spacious hotel, capable of receiving 100 or more tourists ; has about 40 dwellings and 500 inhabitants, the county buildings, clerk's office, jail and court house. A road from the south passes through Caldwell to the north.-west, and in six miles crosses the Hudson River, and continues on ten miles to Chester, a village of 150 dwell- ings and two churches, with mills, and on the outlet of Friend's Lake two miles long ; from this a road branches off north-west to Ogdensburgh, on the St. Lawrence, and an- other north past Scroon Lake, and on the west side of Lake Champlain to Plattsburgh, and is the nearest and best land route to Montreal and Quebec, and att/aets considerable travel and business in this direction. Scroon Lake is eight miles long north-east to south-west, and from half to two and a half miles wide, embosomed in lofty mountains. Brant or Loon Lake is five miles long, one wide, and is south-east of Scroon Lake. The Natural Bridge, a mile or two above the outlet of Scroon Lake, maybe visited at the same time, with the wild roniaitic shores of the various lakes in its vicinity. A stream, namou Trout Creek, a few rods above the bridge, tumbles over a precipice into an excavation ; there a branch rtsns east and forms divided channels, one being under an arr.h of gran- ite 40 feet high and 80 feet wide, that may be followed 160 feet, the other and principal one, more dilBcult of explora- tion, opens into dark and cavernous recesses, with deep pools of water, and at 250 feet from its beginning the united currents emerge to light below a pre.-'ipice of 56 feet, and an arcJi of five feet high and ten wide, Jn Vlhft to 1759, when the American Colonies were involv- ed in fhe contest between Great Britain and France, the thea- tre of operations shone forth on Lake George, that then exhi- bited aimaments and a more glittering array of foreign troops than had ever before occurred, or it is destined ever again to witness ; and that the sweet repose that now prevails on this lake should ever have been disturbed by the din, tumult and complicated horrors of a war growing out of the hatred, feuds and jealousies of distant nations, that sent their warriors hith- er to enact those feats of arms, and fulfill the bloody, cruel Battles near Lake George. 141 mandates of distant rulers and potentates, appears now to have been as unnatural as it was surprising. The first conflicts took place south of the head of Lake George, where a body of English and colonial troops had been assembled in September, 1755, under the command of Gen. afterwards Sir William Johnson, a man that had a siHiri- ous, unfounded reputation, and was saved from defeat and disgrace by the brave Gen. Lyman, of Massachusetts, the second in command. Johnson lay carelessly encamped, but unfortified, in open field on the hills near the site of Fort M'Henry, a little south of the present village of Calf* ''ell ; when Gen. the Baron Dieskau, who had recently anJtred from France, advanced from Montreal up Lake Champlain, passed Fort Frederic, or Crown Point, and Ticonderoga, and boldly up to Skenesboro, now Whitehall, and landed, and marched towards Fort Ed- ward, then called Fort Lyman, on the Hudson, then in an in- cumplele state and without cannon, as he had been truly informed by one of his scouts ; but after proceeding a few miles and near Fort Anne, he suddenly altered his plan, and directed his column towards Lake George to surprise John- son and his army, and was only foiled in this manoeuvre by a timely and chance discovery of his change of the line of march that reached Johnson, who up to this hour had not been aware of the vicinity of an enemy under such a gallant and chivalric commander, and then began in great haste and terror to throw up entrenchments around his camp, that was injudiciously placed too low, and overlooked and commanded by neighboring eminence^ he also dispatched 1,200 troops under Col. Eohraim Williams, to advance and meet Dieskau and his forces, who being aware by his spies of Williams* approach, arranged his men on both sides of the road in a crescent form, extending his wings into the woods so as to enclose his unsuspecting opponents. The Americans struck at the centre of the French line with unflinching boldness and intrepidity, but they outflanked and closed in upon \/iHiams^ detachment, and poured in a mur- derous fire both ou his front and rear at the same moment, that killed Col. Williams and Hendri^^^k the brave Mohawk Indian chieftain.'^ The detachment, after the death ofWil- * Hendrick was shot in tlieback,to liis exceeding mortificaiion and chagrin, it being considered dishonorable to be touched in tl»#'rear; he WM 65 years of age, very corpulent and gray beaded; l»e had a voice of M « f 142 Battles near Lake George. liams, was drawn off to the main body by Col. Whiting in good order, followed by the French and Indians to the lines ol Johnson's encampment, where the troops recovered from their panic, rallie ' vithin the hasty entrenchments, and the battle commence inew, and lasted several hours, when the French and Indians were driven in their turn and pursued and scat- tered, jnd Diesknu badly wounded and taken prisoner, and the 'aggage and ammunition captured. This action was in the environs of the Bloody Pond before alluded to, into which the dead bodies were thrown — 700 French and 300 English. In 1757, the French army of 8000 men under the famous Gen. Montcalm, with thousands of Indians, made a formida- ble invasion up Lake Champlain, and appeared before Fort Wm. Henry, and demanded its surrender from Col. Monroe, and was refused, and began the siege that lasted six days, the Colonel expecting to be momently relieved by Gen. Webb, with 4,000 men at Fort Edward, only fifteen miles distant, but he not daring to appear. Col. Monroe, after a brave re- sistance, was forced to capitulate under honorable stipula- tions, that included protection from savage fury ; but this was not observed, for out of the garrison of 3,000, 1,500 were massacred in cold blood on the 9th of August. The fort was soon after demolished by the French, as they had strong works existing at Ticonderoga and Crown Point. In 1768, it being desirous to dislodge the French from their strong holds at Ticonderoga and Crown Point, the large force of 10,000 provincials and 7,000 regular troops was again concentrated at the head of Lake George, under the command of General Abercrombie, and on the 5th July, leaving only a guard, this formidable force was embarked in over a thousand boats, in one of those fine summer days when the genial air and the placid lake conspired to aid the gorgeous military effect of this grand pageant ; the boats were arranged in lines and divisions in precise order ; the lion and the cross, the " meteor flag of England," was triumphantly exhibited to the confident, well-commanded army; and all being arranged, the signal was given — they advanced uniformly to the sound of the finest military music, that the re-echoing \a)\% returned with admirable effect from the glens and foresis^ as if the thick woods were peopled with unseen spirits, startled and immense power and volume, that when he harangued his people, could be heard amid the hills for miles, Battle at Ticonderoga. 143 dAVighted from their deep, romantic, and inaccessible recess- es, at the unwonted and strange sights and sounds that astounded them. This pomp and splendor continued for se- veral hours, during the progress down the lake, giving the army ample time to look around upon the splendid panorama that environed them, and at the approaching place of de- barkation, (at the present landing-place,) and at the lurking foes they should soon have to encounter. They landed and were arranged in four columns, and ad- vanced under incompetent guides through crooked roads to the north-east, and soon fell into some disorder, that was in- creased by meeting the pickets and out-posts of the foe that had retreated on the first landing of the army, but seeing the confusion that now prevailed in the columns, they rallied, and at their first fire Lord Howe,* the second in command, fell ; the war-whoop began, and after a warm skirmish, in which 300 of the (oG were killed, and 143 taken prisoners, with trifling loss on the English side, the columns retired to the landing. Taking the precaution the next day to send a force to re- connoitre and secure the mill at the outlet of Lake George, and to view the enemy and works situated on a peninsula, with the lake and outlet nearly environing it, and an abattis in part to obstruct the crossing of the isthmus, the army ad- vanced heedlessly to the attack, without attempting to can- nonade the works, as the abattis was held in too much con- tempt ; but on their near approach, and complete exposure to the fire of the foe, themselves concealed behind the abattis in perfect security, and taking unerring deliberate aim on their assailants, the havoc was so great that the English and colonial forces gave it up in despair, after a conflict and struggle of four hours ; during which the brave Highlanders three times drove the French from a portion of the abattis, but were not supported. The loss of the English in this failure was near 2,000 men ; that of the French, three or four officers and a few privates. The latter did not at first intend to make but a how of re- sistance; but seeing the English so daring, and exposed to their mercy, they tried to thin their ranks, and succeeded. The English commander ordered a retreat, though he had 14,000 men unharmed, and the French had only 3,000 ; thus voluntarily adding disgrace to defeat. * The father of the Lord Howe that commanded here in the American revolution. t'5, f (5 . ■"» 1) '»i fh) M : .'fi < I Hi Lake George^ In July, 1759, another British armament of similar forcer^ under General Amherst, made its appearance on Lake George ; and at its approach the positions of Ticonderoga and Crovrn Point were abandoned by the French as untena- ble, as they doubtless were, as more recent events proved, and they abandoned them for ever. In 1777, when Ticonderoga ami Crown Point were occu- pied by the Americana for the last time, as important military posts, they abandoned them when General Burgoyne ap- proached; and since the revolutionary war, and our fromtier has been so much extended to the north, they are looked upon as almost the only relics and ruins of any note in this State that are invested with the garb of a moderate antiquity and veneration. Fort George, at the head of the lake, still presents its out- line and circular massy wall, and ramparts of stone 20 feet high, and in good condition, a short distance east from those of Fort William Henry, and one-fourth mile back from the strand ; and here is also the best view of the widest part of the lake, and of the north-west bay, and of the ranges of mountains for 20 miles, and of several of the largest islands, and of the head promontory before alluded to, and of the shelving rock that intrudes from the east far into the lake, and beyond which the eastern arm of the lake turns to the right. The passage across the lake by steam-boat fi'om Caldwell, 36 miles north, fare about $2, is made daily, in summer, to gratify tourists and travelers ; that at Ticonderoga can inter- sect the boat that touches there daily, and continue on up or down the lower lake. Those wishing to return to CaldwelJ the same day, can do it by the return of the boat, but stran- gers usually devote the remainder of the day to Ticonderoga, three miles beyond the landing, and a very agreeable walk along the outlet and falls of Lake George, estimated at a descent of 150 to 300 feet ; the surface of Lake George is 243 feet above tide, the greatest depth 60 fathoms ; its sources, probably, from the deepest, coldest, and purest iiprings, as k has no rivers of any consequence running into it. The lake is froaeu about 25lh December, and remain* closed usually three and a half or four months, when, withom sinking, a^ it does in Lake Champlain, the ice gradually dis- solves. There is no current, except near the outlet, and the shores being rocky or gravelly, the water is pure and potable, Emcurtion on LaJf George* 146 Rnd hat no lime; the borders are the (seat of health, and fever and ague is a stranger. The melting of the snow in spring only raises the lake one or two feet. The prevalent winds are N. E. and S. W. There are more settlements on the west than on the east side of the lake on the slopes, from a few roda to a mile wide, reaching up the mountain, that will, some future day, be decked out all in terraces and villas, for it is im- possible that such charming sites should be always neglected. Deer and bears still abound on the mountains, and the depths of the lake with the largest and finest trout, bass, and perch, and the lofty clifTi of the hills and crags with eagles and rattlesnakes; and for these Mount Prospect has an espe- cial bad name, that is to be regretted, as it is said to command a capital view of the lake, and between the dread of one and the love of the other, '< de gustibus non est disputandem. >» Excursion on liiike Geor|s:e. Every traveler in making an excursion on this lake, if he is favored with a proportion of suitable weather, clear and cloudy, fair and foul, to see tlte changes of the scene, the lights and shades, and hear the efiect of echos from a heavy thunder*slorm reverberated from the amphitheatre of moun- tains, will enroll it in the calendar of his Uie as one of the roost memorable epochs of his existence. On putting out from the village on the broad surface of the pellucid crystal waters of the lake, the enjoyment begins by the contemplation of the surrounding panorama, the noble mountains on the east, with their deep shadows reflected in tbf water-mirror at their base, the graceful slopes on the ymit, and the border on the south, with the acclivity covered 'wth a fine green sward, interspersed with groups of forest- Ttjca, and a haadsorae sprinkling of evergreens. The time- vorn battlements of Forts George and William Henry, half shrouded in nioas and shrubbery, are invested with a hallowed nterest from the associations of the stirring events of by-gone days of war and chivalry that those walls and the pinnacles of the adjacent mountains have witnessed. The islands and shores soon come in for a large share of the tourist's admirRtiou. The beauty, variety, and grace of the curves of the Hnely wooded margin of the lake, with foresti and groves rising at various angles, or overibadowing 13 J i 146 Twelte Mite Uland. 1/ and forming natural arbors of the many recesses and inden^ tations that are presented in endless variety on both shores i the deep umbrageous twilight effect of some masses of trees and underwood, is contrasted with the more open and gay lawns and groves, that appear prepared for the rural fete or merry dance. The smooth slopes and cheerful borders, that are already partially occupied by the primitive settlers, or their immediate descendants, and that have made themselves rudely comfortable and happy in the rough log-hul or more finished tenement, extend for miles, and are followed by pro- montories encroaching boldly into the lake, and forbidding access to the husbandman. The points are varied, acute, and angular, gliding into rounded and circular, followed by fretted and scolloped margins, or a beach of bright yellow, or golden, or light-colored sand, displaying the purity and transparency of the waters, and tempting the feet of the nymph to tread it» unsullied margin, or to bathe in its soft, and shining, or glis> tening waters. The spurs, or angles of the mountains, at times intrude far out in the lake, and are covered with the native forest ; and at others are but long narrow ridges stretching horizontally, or with a graceful declination to meet the surface of the wa- ters ; or they assume the appearance of islands tn the loom< ing up of the distant perspective. After continuing on for ten miles, a bare spot, denuded of its forest and shrubbery, is observed, where the hunters are in the habit, annually, of setting fire to the last year's dry grass, to admit of the new growth of the spring to come forth, and tempt the deer from their haunts, that soon after are seen to frequent it in herds, when the noisy yelping of the hounds, and the sharp crack of the rifles, are heard echoing and faintly responding from amid the distant hills. These fires sometimes range uncontrolled in the forest, and have a sad and destruc- tive influence on the landscape, but at night the effect of one of these conflagrations is truly sublime. Twelve Mile Island, so called from its computed distance from the head of the lake, is 35 feet in elevation, contains over 20 acres, and is very near the centre of the lake, and of a circular form, and only requires to be preserved in all its pristine beauty. Beyond this round island, the lake in one mile divides into two prongs, that to the left being the north-west bay, six milea long, and the other the north«east bay leading to the outlet Fairy Group of Idandt. 147 nnd l«nt\ing; between the iwopronp^s rises the noble head- land or promontory of Tongue Mountnxn to a height of 1,400 feet, that abuts boldly forth, and loids it over the opposite heights, and looks down upon the lake that at its base has a depth of several hundred leet, and upon \ne clustering islands that here begin and form the narrows, f>r six or seven miles. The mountain can be ascended fiom the rear, but at great risk of reptiles and bein^ bewildered m the forest; but the view from the summit u surpassingly beautiful. The Fairy Group of Islands now thicken as we proceed, and assume intinite variety in shape and feature; some being in groups, ortamilies, of five to twenty or thirty, or twin- like or in solitary beauties, standing out for admiration, or more coyly retiring from the public gaze, and requiring to be sought out from the conceal ttients of the labyrinth, ever changing, ever new, to the enchanted beholder, that delights to repeat hisesplorations as he discovers new beauties at every repeti- tion of his visit as he lingers among these embowered Borro- mean isles. There are such an infinity of forms of beauty in their figure and dimensions, that nature appears, as it is in truth, inex- haustible in resources; some are mere islets or naked rocks, in contrast with tufted and brilliant verdant spots, of a few feet to a furlong or a mile in length ; the vegetation of some is scanty, but in most it is perfect ; some have but a tree or two, or are decorated with a feathery group, inclining like the princes gracefully towards the surrounding margin ; some are dense with forest or shrubbery, others admit of winding paths beneath overtopping trees, shaded from the noon-day sun, and free from undergrowth; others, as the boat insinuates and glides too rapidly past long and narrow islands, presents, for a moment, apertures that disclose the near or more distant mountains, or a glimpse of sky, or of objects and forms beau- tiful, evanescent, and magically changing as they are ap- proached but to bo admired and lost in the rapid transition. The pine, with its tall trunk peering above all competitors, waving loftily and nobly in the sky, occupies many such positions ; while on other islands the maple, the beech, or th* oak, in liveliest verdure, and in the wild luxuriance of native vigor have uncontrolled dominion, or are seen in various stages 4>f decay, or scathed and splintered by lightning. The whoU scene is doubly enhanced by the unruffled mirror that inveru the forms above, of islands, trees, rocks, and winding shores ■m 'm^ m •Wi ;f 't? ^■ 148 Anihony'i Note, in the sky-reflected arch beneath, depicted with the truth and coloring of nature. If the admeasurement is correct. Black Mountain that is on the east, eighteen miles from Caldwell, is the highest crest of any of the range bordering the lake, being 2,200 feet high, and in front of it on the west, is the halfway house or island ; and here the traveler will behold, in the next few miles, the choicest lake scenery. The mountain has a serrated waving outline of much gran- deur, and is densely clothed with evergreens, pines, and firs. On a projection from the west shore, 24 miles from the head of the lake, is a prominent point named from a party of Ensriish h<«vin? had a conflict with the Indians on that day, Sabbiil/i-day Point. The small inland, called the Scotch Bon- net, is seen in three miles ; and in three miles more a cluster of dwellings and mills, known as Hague, on the west shore, and here the lake attains its utmost width, said to be 4 miles. Three miles further the traveler will notice a rock of 200 feet hiifh, descending to the lake at an angle of 25 degrees, and decidedly more easy of descent than ascent ; and the tra> diiion is, ihat in the war of 1755 to 9, Major RogerSy a parti, zan officer, equal to Putnam in intrepidity and hatred to tha Indians, and being their most vindictive enemy and persecu- tor, found himself, when pursued and nearly in their grasp, on the verge of this inclined plane at the top of the mountain, down which (it being probably covered with snow, as he had his snow-shoes on, and had no alternative) he slid, without flinching, just as his pursuers wore upon him, and left them standing aghast and shrinking from following his nimble footsteps, and beholding with amazement his charmed life, as he appeared in safety at the base of the precipice, down which they dared not follow. Anlhony^s Nose, one of those singular nicknames, and such a noted and peculiar prominence on the Mohawk, and on the profile of a jutting rock and mountain in the Highlands of the Hudson, is also found here in opposite face to the Rogers* Slide ; the precipices are 50 to 100 feet in elevation, and the shores contracted arnid gigantic masses of reck. Two miles from the above is an island where the prisoners that were taken from the French were put upon the limits, and west of the island is the point where the English army under Lord Howe, consisting «f 16,000 men, were landed and march8dt«> th« attack of Ticonderoga, as mentioned. Tieonderoga, 149 A huge rock fell from the precipice at Anthony^s Nose, a few years since, and plunging into the lake, came very near deoiolishing a usiierinan and linking a canoe by the surge it created. On a rock opposite to this arc said to be a series of Indian mortars wrought in the solid stone, for pounding their corn. Some of them are capable of containing half a barrel, and others of smaller size, smooth and circular. The water of the lake that has, up to this point, been of an emerald green, now changes to a muddy color, from the dif^ ference in bottom, that is here clay instead of rock as above ; and in one mile we are at the termination ofour Excursion mi Lake George^ or Horricon, as the Indian name is transmitted. Three miles more by the rough and winding romantic r )ad before alluded to, along the gorge that contains the outlet of the lake we have traversed, brings the traveler in sight of Lake Champlain, and to the walls of old Ticonderoga, The change in scenery when we descend to the lake below, is as obvious as that of the water. There are three falls in the outlet of the upper lake ; the lowest one being 100 feet, with a rapid at the bottom, and in spring they exhibit much mag- nificence; at other times they are small but pleasing cascades. The bottom of the upper is about on a level vi'ith the surface of the lower lake. By following up the creek that comes in from the west near where the steamer is left, we come to a chain of small lakes near lake Pharaoh, that falls into Swan Lake, one of the heads of the north-east branch of the Hudson River. Che-on-der-oga^ by the Indian phrase, noist^ was by the French chane^ed into IHconderogay and was also by them named Fort Carillon, after its erection in 1766 ; it cost the French government a large sum of money, and was consider, cd to be very strong both by nature and art, being surrounded on three sides by water, and by a deep swamp on part of the other, and a breastwork on the remainder; but it was subse- qiienlly easily reduced by the simple expedient adopted by Burgoyne, that had been before strangely overlooked, of haul- ing a piece of artillery up the pinnacle of Mount Defiance 726 feet high, on the south side of the creek that overlooks and entirely commands the fort, and from which a shot can with ease be thrown into the midst of the works, that had been pro* bably supposed to be too distant to be injured in that way ; at the siege of Gibraltar shot were thrown 4} miles, and 13* m is IE. ^fcf il Hi's*' >f Hi'--' 'I I'i'ht ■'''3 |..Uv th vast treasures of men and money ; thHl they tamelv quitted as the poweiful armamt^nt of Lord Amherst appioached and took possession, and it so remained for 16 years, when the An^erican rev(dution breakmg out, it was captured without hloodxhed hv Colonel Allen, as beforo mentioned, in 1775. and held till 1777, when the British army appealed in an ay before it, under the f all&ut Burgoync, when St. Clair. m even St. Clair, the American commander, was forced to evacuate in his turn, and it fell into British possession, and was held during the war. St. Clair dispatched the baggage and stores by a detach« meiit up tho lake to Whitehall, and was followed by the Bri^ tish in full pursuit to Fort Anne, where a skirmish ensued; but the forces under St. Clair crossed the lake to Mount In- dependence, and directed their march upon Hubberton, Ver- mont, where Colonel Warner, with 1,000 men, was overtaken and brought to action by the advanced tfuard of the British, and were vanquished, and retired to Fort Edward, on the Hudson, to unite with General Schuyler. In modern times Ticonderoga and Crown Point are only adverted to as hav- ing once been an important place in American history, a spe- cies of *' points d'appui," that held the keys of the lakes on which the movements of fleets and armies must take place. After finishing Lake George and Ticonderoga, the tourist can take the steam-boat at Shoreham, in Vermont, one mile east of Ticonderoga, and return to the south by the way of Whitehall and the stage route through to Troy, or take the cars for Sandy Hill, or proceed from Shoreham to Kiitland and Windsor, Vermont, and up or down the charming valley / Connecticut River, or continue on for the north down Lake Ctiamplain to Plattshurgh and St. John's, and thence to Mon- treaj and Quebec. The downward steam-boat from Whitehall usually calls at Shoreham, in the summer, before dark, but from Crown Point to Plattsburgh, 46 miles, the passage is made at night, the- not beinp a line of day-boats. The price of passage from Wti. ^'hall to St. John's, 160 miles, is $5. ^'e now return back to trace our route from page 146, where we diverged from the regular loute to give our readers the popular lake tour. Leavmg Sandy Hill in the cars or stages, we cross 1 he sum- mil level, or height of land between the Hudson River and the water running north, and in a short distance the northern canal that we meet at Fon Aniit the village so named, 10 miles from Sandy Htll and 1 1 from Whitehall, and on the site of the old fort erected in 1756. ItrontuinsGO dwelhngs, three church'^' 'wo taverns and stores, and is surrounded by a roll* ing fw ii . ■ country; and two miles south mny be seen ves- tiges fif ihi'' military road of logs made in 1777 for the trans- port cf »' ^ artillery, baggage, and stores of Burguyne's army to Saratoga. '1 m d w f lai. fis uRf * 2 A ^ i *. "*■ " ' ^ ' -> 1 n J is ' vS wM IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A :<'.< A ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 1^1^ MM |40 1.8 1.25 1.4 14 -•- 6" - ► ^^-'^''^ o / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 '.''f?T "..* heaved by earthquakes. Wiitehall, formerly Skenesborough, 73 miles from Alba- ny, has 150 dwellings, a bank, many warehouses for the commission and forwarding trade, two large hotels, 20 gene- ral stores, and 2,500 inhabitants ; a Presbyterian and a Me- thodist church, and Societies of Universalists, Catholics, and Baptists. It commands the steam- boat business from the south down the lake, and the canal trade, and also that of a con- siderable region around. A steam-boat leaves daily during the season for St. John's, Canada, 150 miles distant, touching at the several landings. This place has much of the aspect of a port, and there are many sloops owned here, canal- boats, &c. There is not much room for wide streets, as it is in a def 'e and very restricted. The houses are of the stone that is quarried on the spot, and WhiUhall. 153 many may be said to rise out of their cellars on knolls and elevations, and others at the edge of the heritor. The Aboriginal name of this place was Kah-cho-qaa*na, the place to dipfihf at the foot of the falls near the village where the Wood Creeic and Pawlct River unite. Here may be seen rotting in the mud the useless hulks of the vessels captured by Commodore M*Donough from the British, during the last war, in the action off Plnttsburgh and Cumberland Head. The Poultney River that comes in from the north, and that has its source in Rutland County, Vermont, at the base of the Green Mountains, and in the Lake Bombazine^ in Caslleton, five miles long, in 1783 made for itself a new channel by an impetuous rush of water, the result of some outbursting of a mountain lake, or of a watcr-spout that forced and cut its way 60 feet deep through a ridge, and carrying so large a quantity of earth into the east bay, as to choke up, for a season, its navigation. From Fort Ann to Whitehall, 11 miles, the canal runs side hv side with Wood Creek, so near that a pistol shot will reacn either, and we here see the truth of the prmciple of Brindley, the engineer of the Duke of Bridgewater's canal, who being questioned before the House of Commons, what he thought rivers were made for, replied, " to feed navigable canals ;** and although the channel of Wood Creek is actually used for canal purposes for six or seven miles, yet as it has a strong current difficult to stem in coming from Whitehall, the canal is preferable. At one remarkable spot the road passes over, for several hundred feet, the surface of a bare rock, called the " DeviPt Dining Table.** There is a variety of hill and dale, banren rock^, swamps, tracts of clay, alluvion, and of rich mould in this county. At Whitehall Burgoyne destroyed the American flotilla in 1777, and the baggage and stores of the American army, and had his head quarters for some time, while his troops were forming a road and clearing obstructions (that the Americans had prepared to oppose their progress,^ to enable him to get on with his army and materiel the short distance to Fort Edward, and to accomplish this he spent so much time, and subsequently in camp at Fort Edward in waiting for his provisions, artillery, &c. to arrive from Whitehall, that the Americans had time to rally their militia from all quarters^ and poured in bcr hardy mountaineers from Vermont, New ^^ \ I m Excuraion down Lake Champlain, 3fC. Hampshire, Massachusetts and Connecticut, and soon turned back the current of invasion. The remains of an intrenchment thrown up at that time by the English, may yet be seen on the hill overlooking the basin, the village, and the falls of Wood Creek, and the canal and locks that are compressed side by side; nature versus art. A path leads to the summit ; there is a bridge over Wood Creek. The rocks are beautifully stratified in horizontal and per- pendicular lines, similar to masonry, and this is seen in other places a» wo pasii on. . The summit of Skene's Mountain at Whitehall is 588 feet. Excursion down I^ake ChamplaTn and on the St. I^awrence to montreal and €|uebec. The stranger uninformed of the topography of this country, on arriving at Whitehall, is astonished to look down into the narrow glen below the village and witness the mimic stir and bustle of a small sea-port, amid a very rough country in the centre of the State, with crags and precipices towering above the busy settlement that appears to be placed at the edge of a dull, pond- like body of water, without any visible outlet, in a position dividing the primitive rocks on the west from the transition on the east. The steam-boat usually leaves soon after dinner, thus giv- ing the traveler several hours of day-light in getting through the narrow and difficult sinuous channel, that seems to turn to every quarter of the compass, with very restricted limits to put about or pass a vessel going in a contrary direction ; in abort, this arm of the lake is for miles a lifeless, sedgy, dis' colored body of water, destitute of current, and confined be- tween low banks, miry, wet, and marshy, that extend in some places several furlongs back, to the ridges that limit the valley. Soon after leaving the dock we notice on the left an ex- pansion of the lake, that was taken by Dieskau in his de- scent in 1755, called South Bay, extending five miles south- west, bounded in that direction by the lofty chain of granite A EMunion doum Lake Champlain, SfC. 15A ttountaios 1,600 feet high, that upholds the watera of Lake George, and that has a wild repulsive aspect. There it one remarkable gateway-looking aperture through which the boat passes, almost brushing the perpendicular face of the wall, that has the artificial appearance before alluded to, and from thence, after continuing on a few miles, the lake sensibly widens for the remainder of the 26 miles that brings us to Ticonderoga, with Mount Defiance on the left, and Indepen- dence on the right, both alluded to in pages 149 and 160. The precipitate abandonment of this fortress in 1759, that had been constructed by the French, and from whence had been sent those hordes of savage and ferocious bands that kept the colonics in constant terror, and from which the French now finally retired, was a subject of deep congratula- tion and thanksgiving to the American nation; and as up to this period the fort had not been captured in open fight, but only by stratagem, it was held to be impregnable until the expedient was suggested to Burgoyne of assailing it with cannon ball from Mount Defiance, which soon dislodged^the Americans from that, and also from the formidable works at Mount Independence directly opposite. A landing now occurs either at Ticonderoga or on the op- posite side in Vermont ; and those not wishing to proceed any further, can spend a few hours or a day in examining the ruins and take the boat to the head of the lake, and proceed to the Springs and to Niagara. There does not exist in the United Stages a place that ex- hibits the historical and moral associations equal to those attached to this romantic spot, where has so often been dis- played the grim defiance of the warrior, followed by the rapid mutability of human events, the fluctuations of power, and the repose that distinguishes the peninsula under the fostering care and preservation of its amiable and appreciating owner, that will hold as sacred the relics that here remain, until the moss and hue of ages, and its ivy-crowned ramparts will im- part increasing interest to all Americans and antiquarians, and cause it to be visited by countless pilgrims. The land- scape that Ticonderoga presents, the lake, the bay, the ruins, the near and distant mountains, and the gorge leading the eye np towards the falls, all properly grouped, and the happy mo- ment seized in the afternoon, when clouds, light and shadow« hII are favorable, ofler the most splendid subject for the pen- cils of our most accomplished artists. IH Excnrtion dovsn Lake Champlaim. Five MUe Pointt fo called, from Us distance from Ticon* deroga, extends a considerable space out from the east or Vermont side, in the town of Shoreham, and in nine miles more the boat arrives at Crown Point, and the landing at Chimney Point half a mile across the lakB in the township of Addison, in Vermont. The fort of Crown Point, 37 miles from Whitehall, is at the extremity of a tongue of land jutting far into the lake to the north, elevated 47 feet above the water of Lake Champlain, and having a considerable body of water oa the west, called West Bay. On the farther ^hore of this bay i^ Port Henryt that will soon be described. This post, when in French possession from 1731 to 1759, was another source of grievance and distress to the colonies, and its fate in being abandoned to Lord Amherst without bloodshed, a cause of much rejoicing ; the ruins of the French works may yet be seen from the boat's deck on the i|0uth side of the bay, opposite Chimney Point. An entire neW fortresi of earth and wood, 22 feet thick, 16 high, was then construct* ed by Lord Amherst. It was 1,500 yards square, and had a deep and broad ditch cut in the solid graniU with immense labor, besides a double row of strong stone barracks to con* tain 2,000 troops, with a gate on the north, a draw-bridge, and a covered way to the water ; these expensive works are part* ly in ruins. The redoubt of the French was on the very bank of the lake, 150 yards from the fort, and is now a mere heap of stones. (Near this point on the 13th October, 1776, ter* minated the American expedition against Canada, by the destruction of the Heet under Arnold.) Crown Point and its garrison are said to have cost the British government two millions of pounds sterling ! a great, and scandalous, and useless waste of money, as the ground is flat, and commanded by the hills on the west, and the fort has never been tested or occupied either in offensive or de. fensive operations. In proceeding along the lake in the day-time, or from the highest part of the walls of this fortification, the Green Moun* tains in Vermont, and the more lofty summits lately explored, as the sources of the Hudson and the Au Sable, about 20 miles west, are seen to soar up to their utmost heights, and fill the horizon with infinite grandeur; and here also the lake opens finely to the north, with an efl*ect that is increased in beauty, by the tourist having at first been very restricted ai to the distant perspective, and the water tha^ hitherto has been J V ■'' Excunion to (he kigheH Mouniaini in Neto- York. 157 ihallow, muddy, and opaque, becomes clear, deep, and pota- ble, and expands suddenly four or five miles ; and above Far- riiburgh andthe mouth of Otter Creek, to 10 or ]2, and has its g^reatcst vMdth, 18 miles, opposite Burlington. Lake Cham plain Is more than 600 feet deep, as soundings have been made to that depth and no bottom, thus making (r«i the surface is 93 above tide,) a larg$ portion of the lake below (he level of the sea. Excorsion to the highest mountaimi in the State of IVew-Yorky and to the Sources of the Hudson and An Sahle. The tourist wishing to explore the glens, dykes, lakes, lofty pinnacles, minerals, numerous water-falls and attrac* lions of this new field of examination, recently brought be- fore the public by the corps of savans of the State, may land either at Port Henry, or at North-West Bay, or Westportf oppo« site Basin Harbor ^ Vermont, or at Essex a few miles north, or at the mouth of the Au Sable, at or near Port Kentj or KeesevUle, (a raiUroad four and three quarter milen long con- nects the two places,) and thence trace up along the banks of the Au Sable to its source 4,747 feet ; from this enormous height it descends in only 40 miles in a gorge or ravine, that has either been made by its waters, or made by earthquakes or some powerful, natural cause, that exhibits an array of successive water-ialls more sublime and magnificent than any other part of the United States, and that well rewards the curious traveler fond of such exciting exhibitions of nature. Port Henry is a small village and place of landing on the west shore of the bay, about a mile or two from Crown Point; the road leading from thence into the interior is much used for the transportation of sawed pir.e lumber, there being in the large township of Moriah more than 60 saw mills; a ride of six miles west enters the forest, and crosses the old state road from Warren County to Flattsburgh, that has a line of settlements on its borders; the junction of primary rocks with the transition series, may be seen near the western border of Lake Champlain^ and at the line of contact the limestone is w 14 lai Eait Moriah'-^Lake 9anford. ID white maMet, crystaliae in structure, with scalei of plum- bago. Etut Moriak is three and a half miles west, 800 feet above the lake, and has a fine view of the western slope of Vermont, and the extended and fine outline of the Green Mountains in the distant back ground. A now road, rather rough, leads to Weaiherheads, at Wett Moriaht on the Scroon River, or northeast branch of the Hud- son, 13 miles from Port Henry, and on through an unsettled country to the Black River in Lewis County, following defiles and gaps in the Scroon Mountains, that at Weatherheads ap- pear to rear their lofty and continued ridges and clifis, and prevent all access ; but there is an unseen gorge that leads to Israel Johnson's, at the outlet of a beautiful mountain lake, called Clear Pond, nine miles from Scroon River.' From Johnson's may be seen the highest peak 20*^ west, th.U ii covered with snow 9 or 10 months. A further distance of nine miles reaches to the Boreas, a branch of the Hudson, eight miles from Johnson's, and soon to the main north branch of the Hudson, near and below its junction with the outlet of Lake Sanford, and in a few rods to the landing at the outlet of the lake, nine miles from the Boreas. From hence, leaving the road as before, we diverge and enter a difficult path, that leads up the west of the lake, and in six miles the tourist is at the Iron Works, at M'Intyre, and at the remarkable and vast beds of ore of the best quaUty in its vicinity. Lake Sanford is about five miles long, and Is a handsome expanse, and, whh all the lakes and streams, abounds in trout. LabradoritCf or Feldspar, abounds from Scroon Valley to Hamilton and Franklin Counties, and north to the plains that are between the upper waters of the Au Sable and Lake Placed, an area in all of 600 to 800 square miles, and blocks and boulders of this rock are found south and west to the southern boundary of this State, and are at Coxsackie of 100 tons, 300 feet above the Hudson. I^akes and mountains, and Sources of vtae Hudson and Au Sable. From JU!*/7i/yre, those intending to reaeh the virgin source of the Hudson, m defiance of wolves, deer, moose and pan- Idtke* and Mountains, and Sources of the Hudson^ 8fC. 159 thers, that all abound in these unfrequented haunts, mutt here plunge into the wilds, in a south-east direction, passing two small lakes, till at three or four miles from the settlement at the south point of one of the mountains, a more east course leads to the main branch of the river, that is occasionally forded and continued on the beach ; rolled masses of the La- bradorite rock, in small opalescent specimens, show their beautiful colors in the stream, that increases in the ascent, and is seen to pour forth from between two mountains in front; in two miles a more precipitous part of the gorge is met, through which the river descends, and progress becomes difficult and dangerous, and falls and rapids frequent, and at last an imposing cascade is encountered, that is closely pent between two steep mountains, and falls about 80 feet into a deep chasm, precipitous and secluded. Similar obstacles continue till the head of this terrific ra- vine is reached, where a ledge of rock crosses and obstructs the stream that backs and raises the river for a mile in a west and north-west direction, and forms a level called the Upper StUl JVaUff that is pent in the bottom of this deep moun- tain recess or valley, with scarce any visible current. On continuing up the valley, the river has a meandering course of one mile to the north-west and north, with some current, until it forks in two branches ; the main one comes from the east, the one from the north, in 200 yards, leads to the outlet of a fine lake one mile long, called Lake Colden, that is situ- ated between two mountain peaks, that rise in full and lofty grandeur ; the valley to north-east, leads to the Avalanche Lake, that is nearly equal to, and discharges by its outlet into Lake Golden. The mountains on the sides of Avalanche Lake rise so precipitous as to preclude any passage except by water, and the scenery is so imposing from the immense slides that have como from the steep face of the mountain, that its name is most truly appropriate. Fine specimens of the opalescent rock may here be found. Following the main stream to the south-east for two miles, over falls and rapids, in one spot the river has taken the place of a trap dyke that cut through the rock, thus form- ing a chasm or sluice of great depth, with perpendicular walls into which the river falls in a cascade of 50 feet. There are no trout above Lake Golden. The Notch or pass, to be de- scribed in turn, is five miles north of M*Intyre; the Wallface Mountain, on its west side, it 1,200 feet perpendicular ! ! 160 Laket and Mountains, S^e, From a boat on Lake Sunford the beauty and grandeur of the lake and mountain scenery is fully developed and enjoyed, and the echos at a point on the upper part are remarkably strong and distinct. « Continuing on above the Great Dyke Falls three miles, is the south elbow, where the bed of the main stream changes ro the north-east, and a tributary comes in from the south-west, The course now enters the high valley, that separates Mount M'Martin from Mount Marcy on the south-east, but the forest growth is so dense that these peaks cannot here be seen ; a mile from the south elbow another tributary enters from the south-east, from a ravine that borders the high peak on the west, where beautiful opalescent specimens of the Labradorite are found in its bed. At one mile is a smaller tributary from the north, that from the low alluvial land near its entrance is called th^ High Meadow Forkf and has the surprising elevation of 3,700 feet above tide, and by the same course for one mile, the route crossed by falls and cascades, we are past the broader part of the valley, and the direction to pursue is east* south-east and south-east, with a steeper ascent, and higher and more fre- quent falls. The valley becomes more compressed as wo advance, and has the aspect of a ravine, with the two gigantic mountains on the north and south towering and filling the sky with an increasing ascent in like course for two or three miles to the summit of the pass. A portion of this valley has a ridge of boulders and debris, that a slide or avalanche has brought from the face of the mountain above. The stream rapidly diminishes as we ascend to the south-east, and is at last partially hid under the grass-covered boulders at the head of the stream, on the summit of this elevated pass, that hero forms a beautiful and open mountain meadow, with the ridges of the two adjacent mountains, rising in easy slopes from its sides. From this litt?'; meadow in Keene, the main branch of the Hudson and a fork of the east branch of the Au Sable commence their descending course m opposite di- rections. The elevation is 4,700 feet above tide water, and more than 900 feet above the highest point of the Catskill Mountains. I Aicent of the High Peak ofE%ux.\ 161 Ascent of the Hlffh Peak of Essex. From the meadow below, the ridge is ascended to the W. S. W. amid an entangled zone of dwarf pines and spruces, that with their numerous horizontal branches interwoven with each other, surround the mountain at this elevation. They gradually decrease in height till !he open surface of the mountain is reached, covered with mosses and Hmall al- pine phnts, and these continue for a space, when the tourist that is persevering, able, and daring enough to sustain the fatigues of the adventure, finds himself on the highett peak in the State of New-York, 5,467 feet,— 600 feet above the While Face mountain, and 1,650 above the Catskills. The summit and mass of the mountain is entirely of the Labradoritic rock. Ice has been found here on the third of August half an inch thick. The source of the Hudson bears north 70°, east one and a quarter miles, and the descent to it is more gradual than in any other direction. The view from the summit presents mountain masses of various magnitudes and elevations — a sea of broken and pointed billows, scattered around in irregular profusion. In the distance is the great valley or plain of the St. Lawrence, the shining surface of Lake Champlain, and the extensive mountain range of Vermont, and in nearer proximity is be- held the bald surface of recent mountain slides from various peaks, and the glistening of many lakes deeply embosomed in the valleys. The Great Trap Dyke* of Mount M'Martin cuts through it from N.N.W. to E.S.E is 80 feet wide,and being in part brok- en from its bed by water and ice,an open chasm is thus formed in the abrupt and almost perpendicular face of the mountain, and the scene on entering it is one of overpowering grandeur; its nearly vertical walls of rock overhang the spectator, and seem to threaten destruction ; but with care and exer- tion, though at much peril, it may be ascended by means of the foothold of the irregularities of its surface, 1,600 feet, and fine specimens of the opalescent labradorito obtained. The summit of Mount M'Martin is lower than the peaks each side of it, and is estimated at 4,950 feet. * By a dyke is meant a wall or vein of mineral matter, different from the ore or rock that it traverses. The dykes in their beds of ore are ubu> ally vertical, or nearly so. 14* ^^^er-like, deep cavity, the walls rising 60 to 100. feet, and 70 feet wide, and at Haifa mile below it contracts to 27 feet, and the water is 35 feet deep. This river cuts throujjh a ridge that opposes its course, the top being level, thus forming a chasm one mile long, with walls like exact masonry ; the depth is 135 feet. I6t Peru. L ."►.-■• '..^i;^:* k // There are other chasms in different directions, but dry and partly filled. Peru is four miles west of the lake and 20 south of Platts- burg, and has 100 dwellings, five stores, a Metttodist, Con< gregational, and Roman Catholic church, and several mills. We now draw near the arena of important naval and mili- tary events, connected with the late war, and after passing Valcour and Crab Islands, are on the identical spot where the battle of the 11th of September, 1814, took place between the American and English squadrons, that decided the domin- ion as to this lake in favor of the former. The action on shore between Sir George Prevost and Gen. Macomb had the same result, viz. the defeat of the English in their attack on the American lines. Commodore M'Donough with his fleet of a ship, brig, schooner, and a sloop and five gun boats on each f)auk, were moored in line north and south from Cumberland Head to- "wards Crab Island, when the fleet of the enemy under Com- modore Downie, of a ship, a brig, two sloops, and 12 gun boats came in sight, and the action commenced at eight o'clock, A. M. both on land and lake, and lasted two hours and 45 minutes. The forces opposed were 96 guns and 1,050 men of the enemy, and 86 guns and 820 men of the Ameri- cans on the lake ; but the disparity on shore was still great- er, Sir George Prevost having 14,000 men, veterans, mostly that had recently arrived from the Garonne in France, after the end of the Peninsular war under the eye of Lord Welling- ton, there formed a division under Major General De Rot- tenburg. This imposing force came sweeping down from the north ; the Americans retiring before them from the Chazy encamp- ment, and the left wing of the enemy protected and commu- nicating with their gun boats, and when battle commenced on the lake, the cannonade began ashore and the enemy ad- vanced boldly with scaling ladders, and after passine the ford of the Saranac to escalade the works of the Americans, that occupied an elevated ridge of land on the south branch of the Saranac, crowned with three strong redoubts and other field works, and block houses armed with heavy ordnance. The forces of Sir George were obliged to withdraw from this attack, having been disheartened by seeing the want of success of their seamen, as the want of co-operation of the fleet left no inducement to prolong the contest. This must PUUUburg. ",«T«'. !$•. have betn very levere as it lasted but two hours, and he loat 2)500 men. Gen. Macomb's force was 3,000 men hastily assembled and undifciplined, but most of them good marksmen. Seldom has there been fought in this country a battle so decisive and brilliant in its circumstances, so momentous in its result, and honorable in the highest degree to the two com* manders, M'Donough and Macomb. Memorials exist in the burying ground, to the memory of the brave Downie and other officers that fell on both sides, in this short but bloody and memorable engagement. The first mentioned (Commodore Downie) was killed by the voii^ of a cannon-ball, without being touched. The remains of the works thrown up are in the Ticinily, and one mile north is the head quarters of Sir George, and marks of cannon-shot are yet visible on trees, and in Beekmantown, five miles north, on a hill a severe contest ensued, and Col. Wellington fell and many others. Plattaburg is prettily laid out and situated at the head of Cumberland Bay, at the mouth of the Saranac, and hasSOOto 40O dwellings and 3,000 inhabitants, a Presbyterian, Episco- pal, Methodist and Catholic church, a bank, capital, $200,000, and the county buildings, two printing-offices and paperSf two large hotels, (one temperance,) 20 stores, two cotton and one woollen factories, five mills for sawing marble found in, Isle La Motte. On Cumberland Head is the farm of 300 acres presented to M'Donough by the State of New- York, for his gallant conduct. The route tor a canal from Plattsburg to Ogdensburgh has been surveyed and found practicable, and also a rail-road. A few miles south-east of Plattsburg is a group of islands, and the arm of the lake that leads to the rivers La Motte and Missisque, and bay of that name, and to Swanton, St. Albans, and Highgate, and to the Canadian border. Marble quer- ies exist in Swanton. The North and the South Hero are two islands 20 miles in extent, that are passed on the east, after leaving Plattsburg and Cumberland Head, and rounding to the north; the Rams'' Head on the we»t, and Isle La Motte on the east, are passed in succession in 10 miles, when the boat arrives at Chazy landing, 15 miles north of Plattsburg. Chazy landing is one mile south of the Little Chazy, end three from the village. Wttf Chazy has 30 dwellings, and a few mills, (late Law 15 mmm Champlain — Perrynville-^-tiomie' » Point. It rence^g) and a Methodist Church. Chazy Village has 50 dwellings, several mills, &c. on the state rotid from Albany to Canada. The outlet of the Big Chazy River is in the bay,* to the west of Point au Fer, a headland that intrudes boldly into the lake from the west. Champlain is the last village on the state road south of the frontier, on the left bank of the Big Chazy River, five miles from the lake ; has a Presbyterian and Methodist church, 40 dv/ellings, three saw and one grist-mill, one furnace, one tan- nery, one carding and cloth-dressing mill, one temperance house. Perrysville, on the Chazy, three miles west of Champlain, and 24 north-west of Plattsburgh, has 25 dwellings, one grist and saw-mill, carding and cloth-dressing, and one store. Corbeau, at the confluence of Corbeau River and Chazy, is 18 miles north of Plattsburgh ; 'las a Roman Catholic church, one grist and one saw-mill of stone, and 20 dwellings. Rousse's Pointf 23 miles north of Plattsburgh, has a Method- ist church, 20 dwellings, a temperance house, three stores, and is a place where much smuggling and illicit trade is car- ried on. The stone fort that was erected here by the United States, under the false and careless impression that it was in their territory, has been given up. It was gross carelessness, to say the least, to erect such an expensive work without be- ing certain of the fact of legal right to its foundation. The Sord River begins at Rousse's and Wind-mill Point. Wind-mill Point, on the east shore, is just on the boundary, latitude 45°. Odletown, in Canada, is two miles west ; Ash Island and fort, and La Colle Creek on the west, in two miles ; and the Isle aux Noix and fort, in seven miles, is a very low damp spot on the west. The River Sorel, or Richlieu, the outlet and drain of Lake Champlain, enters the St. Lawrence at the head of Lake St. Peter, at Fort William Henry, 60 miles north from Rousse's Point. The country on both sides is low, dull, and uninteresting; an inundated swamp, andean never be of any importance for cultivation, though a few feet of dry land and a few huts are to be seen, but no settlement worth mentioning for 20 miles ; the system of dyking, as in Holland, might here easily be practiced with success, if the land is of value to meet the 8t, Johnt, 171 outlay. At present the aspect it repulsive, and mosquitoes, agues, and fevers predominate. '^' St. Johns ja at the head of the Sorel, here 1,000 yards wide, and here is the termination of the steam-boat navigation, 160 miles from Whitehall ; fare, $5. The raiUroad hence to La Prairie is 17 miles direct, and is passed in one hour, the country bein^ very level. St. Johns is a bustling place, has 150 houses and 1,000 inhabitants, and was formerly pn important military post, in the wars of 1759- '63, and '76-'83, but was taken by Gen. Montgomery on his way to Quebec in 1775, as was also Chamhly, The latter place is 12 miles further down the Sorel, and has been one of the seats of the troubles and rebellion in Canada, and has suffered exceedingly by its participation in those calamitios. The old fort in ruins is venerable in its walls of earth. A ride along the Sorel or Richlieu, in summer, is re- commended if the tourist can spare the time, as the rippling river and the white cottages, and a level country, with the unchanged appearance, manners, and customs of the Canadians or habitans, that are here seen as they were 200 years ago ; their wheelbarrow-size carts and little ponies of the true hardy Norman breed ; the drivers with their pipes and sash belts, and conical woollen caps of divers colors» have such a contrast and novel effect, compared with the United States, that it is both ludicrous and entertaining. From Chambly to Longueil is 15 miles, a two or three hours' drive over a flat country, fertile, cultivated, and popu- lous, with neat and comfortable white houses made of logs, as are the barns ; the road is made by ditching and banking; hero are barracks for infantry and cavalry. The river is lively and on a rocky bottom, and rapid ; Burton's mills are near Chambly. A glimpse of Montreal is had before arriving at La Prairie oral Longueil that is quite pleasing; and as we draw nearer we observe its tin-covered houses and lofty cathedral domes and steeples glittering in the sun-beams ; its compact series of buildings reaching for two or three miles on the shore, and ascending gradually to the base of the hill that rises to 700 feet, covered with villas and fine country-seats ; and in the majestic St. Lawrence, its expanse ornamented with green forest-clothed islands, and whitened with roaring and foaming rapids, the astonished and delighted traveler beholds, at once, a superb coup d'ceil and landscape, and the evidences of a great and thriving northern capital. 1711 Montreal. If Standing on the bank at La Prairie, 30 to 40 feet high, the La Chine Rapids are seen on the left, forming a swmy lint 8 to 10 miles up, extending across from Caunaiwogti to La Chine villages; and nearly opposite is the island of St. Paul^ and further down, past the city, the beautiful St. Helena^ swelling out with its rounded forest-crowned hills, verdant and beautiful, its forts, entrenchments, and waving flags. It is occupied by a garrison, and the families of the officers and other employees of the government. A neat cottage and rus- tic pavilions are to be seen, erected for Lord and Lady Dal< housie : it has, in miniature proportions, its wood-crowned steeps, shady glades, and open meadows, with a near and dis- tinct view of the city. This island, one mile long and one half wide, was the last foothold of 'le French dominion in Canada, and fron\ above the fort, now in ruins, waj last seen the white standiird and lily that at one time fluttered from the St. Lawrence to the Mississippi. On the west point of the island the tree still flourishes beneath which the articles for ceding the Canadas were agreed upon. Here is a company of the royal artillery, an extensive dep6t for stores, an armory, two magazines, wit 6,000 barrels of gunpowder, and other munitions of war. The echoes produced by the morning and evening gun are very fine. This island has all the attractions nature could de- vise, scattered with a most liberal hand, — shade, shrubs, flow- ers, groves, birds of beautiful plumage, fine views, winding walks, &c. niontreal. ■■' H':i., The passage of nine miles down the St. Lawrence is rapidly effected in the steam-boat from La Prairie, aided by a strong current and bordering rapids. The landing is somewhat steep and inconvenient, and in wet weather sUppery and muddy; and surmounting such trifles, the traveler finds himself in the midst of one ot the principal streets of the city, St. Paul's, extending parallel with the river for miles. Notre Dame-street is higher up, and is more retired and genteel for private resi- dences, the former being occupied more particularly for busi- ness. The streets present much bustle and activity, consequent upon a population estimated at from 40 to 50,000. The lower itrceti are narrow and inconvenient, as compared with cities Mowlrtal. ' 173 in the United Statei irenernlly ; but the houses being, in pene- rol, of a grayish stone, or brici(, and tiled or covered with tin, have a massive and heavy, hut durable appearance. The streetg in the more recent parts are wider and better. Montreal is in latitude 45° 3F, and is oOO miles from the mouth of the noble river St. Lawrence, and 180 above Que- bee, and 200 below Lake Ontario, 380 from New-York, 300 from Boston. It is situated on the south side of the island and seignory of Montreal, that is 32 miles long and 10^ broad, and forms the county ; and has nine parishes, Montreal, La Chine, St. Anne, St. Genevieve, Sault au ReroUet, Point au Tremble, Point Clare, St. Laurent, Longue Point, Rivier des Prairies. It is at the head of ship navigation, and ships drawing 15 feet can lie close to the shore; the general depth is 3 to 4( fathoms. The rapids of St. Mary, IJ miles below, is so pow- erful that the current cannot be stemmed by ships without a strong north-east wind, or four yoke of oxen to aid. The immense fur trade, of the yearly value of £256,000 sterling, of the Hudson and North-West Companies, now united, is concentrated at, and directed from, this city ; and hero their voyageurs start from, and return after months and years of absence. The city that had within its pallisadcs ori- ginally but 100 acres, now covers more than 1,200. The number and great size of the public edifices is sur- prising to a citizen of the United States. The General Hospi- tal, or Covvent of the Gray Sisters, is 678 feet front on the little St. Pierre River, and is a refuse and poor-house for the infirm and destitute, founded in 1750. The Hotel Dieuis 324 front, and 468 feet deep, and has a bevy of nuns that devote themselves to the care of the sick of both sexes; it was founded in 1664. The Convent of J^olre Dame is 234 feet by 433, and is a seminary for the education of females. The Cathedral of Notre Dame, that will hold 10,000 people, is 255 feet lonsr, and is situated in the street of that name, and is the most imposing edifice in the city or in Canada, towerinsr up above all other buildings, but is rather awk- wardly placed across the Place d'Armes. The English Cathedral is a splendid building, but not as large as the other. The Seminary of St. Sulpice occiiphn three sides of a square, 132 feet by 90, with spacious gardens; founded 1657. The Petit Seminaire, or New College, is in the Rccollet U* 174 Montreal. suburbs, 210 feet by 45, with a wing at each end, 186 feet by 45, and is an appendnge of the preceding. La Maison des Prilres, formerly the Chateau des Scignenrs de Montreal, is near the mountain, and is also attached to the two preceding, and is a large building of stone, with a massy wall enclosing extensive gardens, and is resorted to once a week by the superiors and pupils for health and re- creation. With the exception of the mountain, the ridge of the coteau St. Pierre, and one or two smaller ones of no fivcBt elevation, the island exhibits a level surface, watered by several little rivers and rivulets, that turn numerous grist and saw-mills in the interior, while many more around the island are worked by the great rivers. From the city to the east, the shores are 15 to 20 feet above the St. Lawrerice, but in the opposite direction, towards La Chine, they are low, and between the coteau St. Pierre and the river, the land is flat, and near the lake marshy, and the La Chine Canal cut through thus avoids the rapids of St. Louis. Nelson's monument is on one of the public squares in the vicinity of the public market. The Parade will, of course, be frequented by the stranger when the troops are exercised, or their fine bands of music are to be heard. The number of regular troops in the Cana* das, at this time, is 20,000. The Barracks were formerly occupied by the old Francis- can monks. The College is three stories liijc;h, with a Urge yard and gardens, and has 300 pupils; $80 a year is the expense of tuition, &c. The Court-house, and the Government-house, and Bank. The soil of the island is excellent, and productive in grains, vegetables, and fruits, and is pre-eminent over any other in Lower Canada. Roads run from north-east to south-west, nearly parallel, and are crossed by others at convenient dis- tances, that form a complete and easy communication in every direction. A turnpike and canal to La Chine, seven miles, takes all the goods for Upper Canada. Within this space there is groat variety, and some very romantic prospects. Eight per cent, tax is exacted for any alienation or trans- fer of real estate on the island of Montreal, for the benefit of the Convent and Roman Catholic religion ; but this has been resisted. v There are many good {.ublic houses in the city — Good- *>>. ■..t>ii. :.* *!■ La Chine — Varenmi, 175 1 i «nough*i, and the Mansion-House, in St. Paul-street, (he tatter on the bank of the St. Lawrence, with a terrace of 144 feet long and 30 wide, thr.t commands a capital view of the hfirbor and islands and the distant shores ; the Masonic Hall, &c. Rafts of logs and ship-timber line the shores below the city, and on these and other favorable positions the French Canadian washerwomen are seen in large concourse, all gabbling, laughing, and splashing amid the water, half-leg deep ; and the carts, with casks, lading and] filling farther ont in the stream. A mile or two from town, near the tanneries, tho road as- cends a steep hill, and keeps on a high ridge for more than three miles, commanding- a beautiful view over the cultivated fields below, the rapids of St. Louis, the islands in the St. Lawrence, and the varied woodland scenery on the opposite shore; descending from the height it passes over a flat coun- try until it reaches La Chine. This is a place of more import- ance than any other village on the island, and the centre of commerce between the upper and lower provinces and the north-west. There are few dwellings, but many store-houses of the merchants and of the Indian department. An excursion throughout the island of Montreal is replete with interest; the rapids of La Chine and Si. Anne, at the south-west extremity of the island, and of the Cedree^ a few miles beyond, and others that are still more remote, 10 to 30 mile;;, such as the Long Saulty can easily be reached in a short time, and should by no means be omitted by all strangers that can spare the time, and may never be so near again. Tho^e coming down from Niagara, and across the lake to Kingston, Ogdensburg, and Montreal, will of course have this enjoy- ment in due course. La Chine is nine miles from the city, and a canal exists to pass boats round the rapids, and a trip is thus easy and cheap. Varennesy 15 miles below Montreal, is a lovely village, and may be easily visited by stage or carriage along the bank of the river, or by steam-boat, as it is one of the regular landing- places. The hotel enjoys a liberal support, and also fine views of the shores of the St. Lawrence, the island of St. Helens, and Montreal, and of an archipelago of lovely islands, and the distant Chambly and other mountains. There is an at- tractive spring here of some celebrity. The summit of Montreal Mountain will come in for a visit 176 Excursion from Montreal to Quebec. in perambulating^ around the environs of the city ; it is only distant about two miles: the view extends to the nlmont stretch of vision, and the St. Lawrence is seen in all its eran- deur and width, the city and St. Helens hein^; immedintely beneath the eye ; an early morning's visit is recommended, so as to be on the top at sun-riae, or r'..>n after; the morning here dawns in Juno soon after 2 o'clock, and the twilight at evening! continues till 10. The Sanlt mi Recollet, ei^ht miles west of the city, is also an interesting spot, opposite Isle .Jesus, where there are several stone mills, and a fishing station owned by the monks of St. Sulpice. Standing on a green point a few feet above the river, in front is the Sanlt or Chute, foaming like the ocean in a gale, or dashing amongst reefs of rocks ; at half a mile beyond is the very spacious mill with lofty walls, thick, and pierced by narrow windows, with steep, red roofs, o'^rtopped by a grove of noble trees. Excursion from IVIonfreal to Quebec. Daily trips are made, in the summer, between these im- portant cities, and the price is commonly $4 going down; time, 12 hours. The steamers are usually of the largest and safest description, and have hitherto, with one eiception,'^ been exempt from those terrible explosions and reckless loss of life that have been too often experienced on the Ohio and Mississippi, the great American lakes, and along the borders of the coast. After bidding adieu, for a time, to the city of Montreal, the attention of the tourist will be engaged by the novelty at first that will be presented in rapidly gliding past the lovely island of St. Helens, and over the rapids of St. Mary, where the current rushes with impetuosity six miles an hour, or at that rate for a short distance, but soon slackens as the river ex- pands, to two or three miles an hour, and the width also va- ries from a half to three fourths, and two to four miles ; and the attractive village of Varennes, and the neat white houses, soon is presented, with its church and high-pointed and double-turreted towers, and a lofty cross near by of 50 feet. * The destruction by fire in June, 1839, of the splendid steamer John Bull. St. Franeit—Orand River Sor el. \rt The low banks of the St. Lawrence, that stretch away far and wide, and seen in some places hardly above the level of the river, as we are in mid-channel in some of the wide ex- p-'.nses, soon become tiresome from the sameness, though we are seldom out of sight of houses, villages, and churches on both sides of the river; the houses of one story, except the seigneurs, are white-washed once a year, roof and all. The churches are covered with tin that dazzles the eye with the reflected snn-beams. Each lot and house has a narrow front upon the river, but the extent in the rear is enormous and disproportioned, two to three or four miles; this brings forward the entire population, like an immense street of endless continuance, so gregarious and fond of society and companionship are the peasants; and the mansion of the Seigneur is distinguished only by its su- perior size, and the churches have one to three spires, and are emblazoned with tin. St. Francis and Point Tremble, on the left, and Boucheville on the right, are passed soon after leaving the city, in seven miles, and then the mouth of the Ottawas, or Grand River, on the left, with a bridge to cross to the north bank, opposite Cape St. Michael on the east of the St. Lawrence. Grand River has its origin in that system of large and small lakes and bodies of water that exist between Lake Huron anu Montreal, and that are very little known to the people of the United States; but the Ottawas is a wide and important stream, and has many falls and carrying-places, and by means of the Rideau CanaU to be described, (see In- dsx,) is the interior route to Kingilon^ on Lake Ontario. The canal begins 120 miles west from Montreal, at the mouth of the Rideau River, entering the Ottawa, and pursues a ge- neral south-west course. Sord, or the Richlieu, 45 miles from Montreal, is at the mouth of the river of that name, forming the outlet of Lake Champlain. The shore is bold, and the boats lie close to the banks to wood. The present town dates from 1785, being then settled by loyalists and disbanded soldiers. The fort of William Henry is on the site of one erected in 1665, by order of De Tracy, by Sorel, the engineer. The houses are about 170, besides stores, barracks, and government edifices, covering, perhaps, 120 acres. The plan is regular, and the streets intersect at right angles, with a pfiUic square in the centre of 500 feet each side. The bouses ar« of wood, th« il \ // 173 Troi» Rivierer, churches of stone; the population 1,500. General Thomas here died in 1776, on the retreat of the Americans from Quebec. Rivers, usually, are much wider at their embouchure than Bt their head ; but this is the reverse, being hero only 250 yards wide, but up towards the lake it is four times that breadth. Here vessels of 150 tons can ascend only 14 miles. Many islands occur for the next few miles, and the river is bewildered among the channels, when gradually the lake of St. Peter is unfolded to the view, 20 to 25 miles long, and 10 miles wide, shallow ; the water of a green color, the shores flat and swampy; no sensible current or motion, but smooth and lake-like. Trois Rivieres, halfway between Montreal and Quebec, U the third town in size, and quite a large place, and has 320 houses, and 2,500 inhabitants ; was founded in 1619, and €&• tends three-quarters of a mile, fronting the river. The St. Maurice River enters from the north, and rises 160 miles north-west, near the head waters of streams (hat fall into.lames's Bay. The Beacon course is on (he south. In 23 miles from lako St. Peter's we are at St. Anne's ; for the last named distance, the north side of this river might sit for the same portrait as the Mississippi, with a natural levee at a like elevation, and dead level ; and behind this are poor huts, badly built and painted, and still beyond them is a dreary forest of half- naked trees, with not a single gap or rise along the hazy line of the horizon resting upon them. As the Richlieu Rapids are approached, the river again becomes interesting; the banks are once more broken and irregular; numerous churches appear, (having domes and spires like the befrois of Normandy, only that they are roofed with tin,) and shoot above each wooded knoll ; and the whirls, and boils, and commotions amongst reefs of irregular rocks, some hidden, others visible, impel the boat at a great speed for such a ticklish and terrific navigation, where the river is very narrow, and the current rushes, with noise and tumult, over a rocky bottom. It is esteemed too dangerous for night navigation. From Cape Rouge, so called ^rom its red hue, produced by oxide of iron, the precipitous b.,nk continues on the north, or leff, as we proceed, for seven miles, in an uninterrupted range of high ground, that becomes higher and higher. The mouth of the Chaudiere, six miles from Quebec, is passed ,jl.^ Vicinity of Quebec — Lower Canada. 179 coming in from the soutli, where, at ita mouth, is a great lum> ber establishment of saw-mills at the fails to be described, and where ships load with timber for England. At length the distant towers of the famous city are descried : the banks increase in loftiness ; in two miles Sillery Cove and river are pointed out, then in one mile and a half Wolfe^a Cove, the Marldlo towers on ihe heights of Abraham, round and mounted with cannon, placed in advance of the grand batteries, and long lines of defence, constructed of stone with all the art and skill of the engineer, are perceived, as we draw nearer, to extend along the verge of the precipice of naked rock, that, at a height of 340 feet, t<^rminates in the high ramparts and circular castle bearing proudly aloft the red cross of England on the pinnacle of Cape Diamond. The scene increases in breathless interest every moment ; forests of tall masts of hundreds of British ships are seen dong the shore; the grim and powerful batteries, where all the ingenuity of military skill has been exhausted to produce another Gibraltar, is seen on the left ; while on the right is Point Levi, with its soft wooded brow and brilliant white houses, also on a precipice of rock, (but rather less elevated than Cape Diamond) and where, in 1759, General Monckton, by order of General Wolfe, erected batteries to bombard Quebec. The ruins of the Chateau of St. Louis, as we approach dose to the lower town, are an object of very prominent in- terest in the approach to this truly picturesque capital. IJontniorenci, with its valley and long and straggling su- burb, then is disclosed to the view, and the beautiful bay, en- circled by ioi>ountains, with nobly formed and swelling shores, bounded by the Isle of Orleans, four miles off, and by a de- lightful country on the north and north-east, with the St. Charles and Montmorenci Rivers falling into the bay, that sweeps most gracefully round like a bow, and presents. In a long circuit, snow-white cottages, handsome country houses, populous viD&ges, that extend for miles in continued streets, and forms the mbst perfect coup d'ceil and unrivalled pano- rama. Loi¥er Canada* embracing from, and including, Montreal, to the Gulf, and &oth sides of the St. Lawrence, baa a population of 600,000 ili i( ti 180 Quebec, to 700,000. Q,uebec and its suburbs contain 3,000 houiei nnd 30,000 inhabitants, not differing much in these respects from Montreal. The vessels resorting to the port are about 1 ,000 during the short season of five or six months. The Indian namo for a village, Kaw-naw-daw, being often repeated by them to the French, when Jacques Cartier first sailed up the river, was adopted by the latter as the supposed name of the country, .„ ; ^ ,, This proud castellated seat of the British domain in North America (latitude 46° 69' 15^', longitude 7F 13') is situated on and around a bold promontory, on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the river St. Charles on the north- west, the confluence of the latter with the former being at the spacious bay that salutes the delighted traveler as he arrives at the wharf at the lower town, and terminates his transient stoam-boat connection. .H As a river eminent for grandeur in its prolonged passage of about 400 miles, from the rapids of Richlieu to the galf, amid rocky and even mountainous barriers, and for its immense volume and depth of water in that great distance, this river is unequalled ; also, in the swell of the oceanic influence that pervades up to the rapids above mentioned* The width of the stream is 1,134 yards, opposite from the city to point Levi, the depth 30 fathoms, forming a cube or prism 180 feet by 3,402. The momentum or current of this immense body of water, moving with a si>eed of three or four miles an hour, can be imagined, as it is, supeilatively grand and imposing, and when suddenly disruptured after being covered with thick ribbed ice and winter's mantle of snow several months, it then becomes terrific, awful, and sublime, the loud cracks and harsh thundering groans of the upheaving and tumbling masses of icr that impinge and crush on each other in the wildest tumuL and confusion, fill the mind with dread and apprehension. There does not appear to be any material difference in the climate at the present from the earliest times ; the winter's cold and summer's heat being both felt to the extreme of hu- man endurance, from 30® below zero, to 100 above, Fahren- belt's scale. The form of the city is triangular, the base, from the St. Lawrence on the south, one mile across the plains of Abra- ham, north to the St. Charles River, being the banlieUf or Bouth-weit limit of the city, and the two rivers, as above stat- PuhHo Edi/kety 8f€. in> Qaebee^ 181 «d, sikI mating nt the nortli ger, and is situated at the east end of St. Paul-street ; the ground, that trovcra 10,000 superficial feet, cost £1,000. It is a neat edifice, of cut stone. The reading-room in the second story is 50 feet long, 30 wide, t6 high, and from the windows is a complete view of the basin and river. The Library and Board of Trade are in the room above ; the Exchange below, where merchants movt do congregate. Not far from the Exchange is the Trinity House, in St. Pe- ketry, and on the top are embrasures for cannon. The loop' holes serve to admit air and light into the casemated barrackik within, that are commodious, comfortable, safe, and fire and missilo-proof quarters. ,, On the top of the bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon ]>ointing to every part of the ditch and glacis, and avenue of approach; here is the finest view of the har< bor and surrounding panorama; the telegraph at the east, on the summit of the cavalier of the citadel, is another fine point of view, as is the observatory on the west towards the Elains. Within the citadel are the magazine, armory, stores ouses, and other buildings for the large garrison ; and the mess-rooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin, are seen from afar in every direction as a bright and lumin- ous object, the latter standing on the verge of the precipice to the south, with a bird's-eye view ; directly beneath iss a fine row of buildings of cut alone, with a paved terrace in front. This fortress combines every invention of science and pre* caution of art that consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest for the protection and security of the city and garri- son. The area of the space and works within the citadel alone is 40 acres. The fortifications are continued around the ■A^'*i .' Public Fromenade^ Palace Gate—Hope Gate. 183 ttpper town in bastions and lofty curtains of»oIid masonry, and ramparts of 35 to 30 feet high, and of equal thickness, bristling with heavy cannon, round towers, loop-holed walU, and massive gates at intervals. Public Promenade. — This is on the summit of the ramparts, from Cape Diamond i^.o the artillery barracks, near Palace Gate, and is a broad covered way, that has an agreeable view toward the west, passing over the gates of St. John and St. Louis. The scene at sun-set is one of gorgeous and sur- passing splendor. The city, that is defended on the land side by its ramparts, has on the other a lofiy wall and parapet, based on the cliff, beginning near the River St. Charles at the ArlUltry Bar- racks. These were erected by the French in 1750. They are of stone, two stories high, 600 feet long and 40 wide, with a garden and appurtenances that denote comfort and neatness. Palace Gate, that adjoins the barracks just alluded to, and connects the works on the left, with their continuation along the St. Charles, has a guard-house on the right. The gate is tlie most elegant and chaste in point of architecture, and is at the north end of Palacestreet,that led to the Intendant's house or palace, that stood on the banks of the St. Charles, on the lite of the Wood Yard. From Palace Gate the lines continue on the verge of the cliff to Hojie Gate, 300 yards ; a broad and level walk sepa- rates the outward wall from the Hotel Dieu. The wall near Hope Gate and guard-house is loop-holed for musketry, and the works here present a lofty and frowning front, and pro- ject over the rugged cliff. Midway between the St. Charles* side and the gat€, a very picturesque view of the rock and the works may be obtained. At Hope Gate begins tho rise of the rock, that ends at the east point of Cape Diamond. Beyond the gate, the wall con- tinues to a point opposite St. George-street and the storehouse, at the angle of the seminary garden, and to the cliff, Sault-au- Matelot, near where Champhiin began his settlement in 160S. From this eminence the grand battery of heavy 32 pound- erg points to the basin, and sweeps over the harbor in a com- manding style. This extends to the Bishop*s Palace, and in those parts of the cliff where it is 300 feet above the water, the parapet is but a few feet high, and the grim-looking artille- ry are ready to vomit forth their iron missiles on all invaders. i .1'''/" '«5 184 Governor' $ Gar4en^8t> JUuU^ Gate-^St^ John'^ Gate^ Hard by the Bishap^g Pnlace, that was long used by the^ ProviiiGial LegislatiKo, isih^ Presc»tt Gale and guard-house, and under its massive arch is the great ihoroutfhfare belween> the upper and lowtir towns, called Moimlain-street.. It is- protected on both sides, and by works that connect it with the Castle of St. Louis; tht stone rampart or wall formed part of that building, aided by buttresses, founded on the solid rock 200 feef above the lower town. The Governor's Garden^ on terraces, is on the south-west of the ruins of the castle, and is 540 feet by 210, and has also in it a small battery. In front of the garden t-he fortifications are continued for 900 feet,, until they reach the foot of th& glacJM, or hill, towards Cape Diamond, crowned at that poin» by the round tower, and the British fiag proudly trium- phant. As to the extent of the rampartt on the land side, Irom the south-west angle of the citadel to the cliff, above the River St. Charles, they are, according to Bouchette, 5,511 feet, or 221 feet over a mile. Within this ramfiart is the Esplanade^ a level space 719 feet long, and here are mounted the several guards on duty, at the citadel and other public places, daily at 1 1 o'clock,, that every stranger should by all means behold^ besides other parades of the garrison. The circuit of the for- tifications that enclose the upj)ep town, is two and three- €|,uarter miles, and that of the space reserved by government, on which no houses can be budt on the west side, is three miles ;^ average diameter, 4,500 feet. The CHStell»ted appearance of th« city, that may be said to be entirely surrounded by a strong and lofty wall of hewn Btone, elegant and durable^ its ditehesr embrasures, round towers, battlements and gates add much to its outward effect, St. Louis'' Gats and road leads to the :*i Chnpcf. The npsv plHce ofasgemlily im 79 tent InnK by 45 broucl, and 2S foot high from floor to ceiling. From tiie dome is a uplcn* did view over iho city of Quelicc and t.h« romantic onviroiis, thnt is enjoyed in security trom the railed gallery on the out- side that environs the dome. The Cohrl House is n plain edifice of gray stone, ]36 hy 44, ill an area inclosed by an iron railing, the roof, as iixual, covered with tin. It standi) at the angle of Ht. LouiH-street, and the Place d*Arnies south of the t^n^lish Cathedrwi. front* ing on the former; a double flijjht ofntono steps lond^ to a veKlibule, and farinfi^ that is the court of sessions, and on the rijj^ht, tlio police-ofiioe, jiHtices' and grand jury rooms. Ou the left IN the Prothonotary of Court of King's Bench. On the upper floor is the Court of Kmg*8 Bench, with a g^Hery for S[ieutat.ors, wilh the imperial arms, ns in the session;*' i^oom, he- hind the bench. To the left of the Court of Kind's Bench are the judfves* chambers and the Court of Appeals, and on t1iu riuhi the Vice Admiralty and sherifli)^ oflico and advocates wardrobe. The Vice Admiralty Court is held in the sessio.is' room. The records are kept in the basement. The cost Was £30 000— Hnished 1804. The Jail is 160 feet Inns by 68 broad, and behind it in a sepnnito Imilding is the House of Correction for femalos; the jail is airy and elevated, being at the top of St. Stanislaus- street ; it is well rej^nlaicd and clean. The Qaebeo Jail Asso- ciuUon to promote education, industry, and moral improvement among the prisoners, is an useful soeit'ty of gentlemen, the principal clergy, &c, that meet in the chapel of the jail once a wee Gate, and is now divideeast. The Marine Hospital is on the bank of the little river CharlpH, and nearly opposite the place where Jacques Cartier firi>t wintered in 1535, nearly a century before the founding of the English colonies in Virginia and New t^n^land. It is of the Ionic order, copied from the Temple of the Muses near Athens; is'iOQ feel long, and, with the wings, 100 leet deep, and four etories hiuh, including the basement and attic. A double flight of atone steps conducts to a colonnade of four loflv pillars of the Ionic order that reach up to the cornice of ihe ihird story, and above that is the attic of the fourth story. The entire premises contain six acres in gardens and pro- menades for the convalescents, and the house can receive 362 pniienis; hot, cold, and vapor bathi> are in each story ; and each ward has flues to convey the foul air to the roof and ensure vcniilatinn, that i^^ done by machinery — and thig is of vital importance, and should never be omitted. Water is taken from the River St. ChHrlcs, filtered and conveyed to (he top of the Hospital. In the bast nient story are extensive cellars, kitchens, laundry, and other arrangements In the first xtory, (Catholic and Protestant chapels, and looms for the niinisteis, house I .>epei', steward, nurse, twolurge kitchens, wants for 60 patients, baths, &c. The principal story has a largo entrance>hall, a museum, apartments lor the medical oflicers, exaininin|r.rooms, operatirig-theatref*, or dissecting- roomn, and space f<>r 68 patients. In the ihinl story are apart- mcnts for the chief nurses, and wards for 140 patients. The upper story in for a lying in hospital for 34, an«l ihe attics are for 60. Ii was opened in .luly, 18.34, and hasco^t a large sum. The French Roman Catholic Cathedral is on the east of the Markoi-place, and is a plain stone building, 216 feet by 108, 188 St. PatrieWi Church—Englith Cathedral. with a high, awkward, tin covered spire. The interior hai muriy pictures and an antique pulpit, and will contain 4,000. The ai8l(;s are lower than the nave, and divided by massive arches of stone, and nbovn \a a gallery on each sidu, running the whole length of the interior ; the altar and choir are well decorated ; there are two small chupcis ; in a transverse gaN lery is an organ at the west end. Another Catholic Church of the Congregation is a modern edifice on the west end of the esplanade; and another in the lower town, Notre Dame des Vicioires, built in 16U0, also fronts on the Market- place. The most recent Catholic church is in the suburbs of St. Roch, and is a large and ornamental ediHce, with several paintings. There is also a church at Point Levi of the Catholics, and an Episcopal church that is neat and attractive, and harmonize well with the landscape around. St. Patrick's Church, Catholic Irish, St. Helen's-str^et, rear of Palace-street, is 136 by 62 feet; has tnree entrances in front, and twu east and west; a double tier of windows; ceiU ing 48 feet high ; the roof and galleries are upheld by massive pillars, with bases and capitals; the galleries have three ran- ges of pews, and with those on the ground- flat will contain a large number. The English Cathedral was erected at the instance of the first Bishop of Quebec, in 1S04, by the government ; it is 134 feet long by 73 broad, and from the floor to the centre of the arch in the interior is 41 feet, spire 152 feet. It occupies a spacious area, enclosed by iron rails and gates, and decor.'«ted with trees. It has a peal of eight bells, the tenor bell of 16 cvvt. ; an excellent organ and regular choir, with galleries each side, and an elegant font of white marble, and a magni- ficent set of communion plate, made by Rundell and Bridge, London. There is also a beautiful monument to the memory of Dr. Jacob Mountain, the late flrst Bishop of Quebec, by Nicholls, size eight feet by six, weight two tons ; the Nvhole is of white marble, done in a masterly style, and has a striking eflfect, and is a conspicuous ornament to the church, and has a likeness of the venerable Bishop in his bust and robes, on a pedestal, with the mitre, &i,c. and inscription cut, and a full- length flgure of Religion clasping a Bible, with the cross and crosier. The present archdeacon is the son of the first bi- shop of Quebec. There are four chapels of the church of England in the parish ; 1st. The Holy Trinity, in St, Stanislaus-street, upper \ ^ < \ I Scotch Church'-^Si. JohnU Church— Bank, Sfc. 189 town, a private chapel, built by Chief Justice Sewell in 1824 ; it is of cut stone, 74 by 48, with an organ, and will hold 700. £. W. Sewell, Rector. The other three chapels are small, viz. St. Matthew's, or free chapel, in St. John's suburbs. St. Paul's, or the Mariner's Chapel, at the base of Cape Dia- mond, close to the L'Anse des Meres, built of wood, (over n Kchool-house of stone,) and served gratis by the evening lecturers of the cathedral. St. Peter^s, or the French Protest- ant Chapel, suburb St. Roch, in the upper part of the Male Orphan Jisylum, that is supported by the weekly collections of the cathedral. The Female Orphan JJsylnm is in the rooms over the National School-house, near St. John's Gate, a plain goihic building within the walls. The Scotch Church, in St. Annc's-street, upper town, en- larged in 1824, is 95 feet by 48, and can stow 1,300, and has a school attached. St. Johii's Church, St. Francis -street, is connected with the church of Scotland. The IVesleyan Methodists have a chapel in St. Anne-strect, upper town, and also a smaller one in Champlain-street, lower town, for sailors and others. Quebec Bank, in the lower story of the neat atone edifice owned by the Fire Assurance Company, in the second story m St Peter's-strcet — the former is a Joint-stock Company. Qffict of Discount and Deposit of the Montreal Bank, i< on the corner of St. I'eter and St. Janies'-streets, near the Exchange. Cha*seur*s Museum, in St. Helcn's-street, in the upper town, near St. Patrick's Church. The Gentrai Hospital is a nunnery, with a superior, 45 nuns, a few novices and postulants. The front is 228 feet ; its form nearly squared—the main edifice 33 feet deep— the ran^e on the south- west is 133 feet long and 60 broad — (a separate house is for the insane, and there is another at Three Rivers under the Ursulines.) The chapel is neat, and has a gallery connected for the sick and indigent. The Hold Dieii is one of the largest edifices in Canada, 890 leet long and 51 wide, three stories high, situated be- tween Palace and Hope Gales, with a wing on the north- west side, 150 feet lung and two stories high. A superior and 33 nuns, two novices and a postulant devote them- selves to the gratuitous care of the sick and the afflicted poor^ There are some pictures here by Stella, Corspel, and £us- Ucha La Seur, the Raphael of France. \ Tffl 1 190 Uriuline Convent and Chapel— Seminary, • The Ursuline Convent ii a plain but commodious edifice of ■tone, tvro Blorieg high, 114 feet front by 40 deep — that, with its gardens and out-buildings, covers seven acres of ground within its own fief of St. Joseph. The rest of the site, except the court, is occupied by a kitchen-garden, and is surrounded by a stone wall. The chapel and choir of St. Ursula is 95 by 45 feet; plain exterior, but its altars are splendid, and the in- terior is venerable; the grating separates it from the convent, and it opens to the public towards Garden-street. The re- mains of Montcalm here repose. The UrsuUne Chapel has several pictures that may be ex- amined by asking the chaplain ; they are by Van Dyke, Le Seur, Restout, painter to the king* in 1760, and Champagne, a Flemish painter to the Queen of France in 1674. The fa- mily consists of a superior, 42 nuns, and some novices. The rules are rigid and exclusive, and their convent is pot open to public inspection beyond the chapel and parlor ; the whole is neat and well arranged. The school here kept is one of the best in the province, and the branches are the useful and ornamental. The Seminary of Quebec is an immense pile of buildings, of 210 feet on three sides, and 42 feet wide, three stories high. Corridors of great len|p;th traverse each story, leading to the halls, dormitories, refectories, classes, apartments of the priests and of the Bit '^op, who resides in the seminary, with the portraits of his 12 predecessors in his anie-chambcr. There are 260 pupils, 120 of them boarders, that pay £17 10». yearly, and deductions made for all absences of eight days or more — to others tuition is free. The commence- ment is on the 15th August, and is attended by the governor and all distinguished characters ; after this is a vacation of six weeksi. The library co.)3ists of 8,000 volumes. The hall or chapel is adorned wif!i icuxc columns. The cabinet has a choice collection of instru. riients, antiquities, and a cabinet of mineralogy, from Abbe Hauy, Paris ; fossils, petrifactions, shells, insects, ores from South America, and an imitation of tVie Falls of Niagara. The grand entrance to the buildings is from the Market-square, and the vestibule conducts to the chapel, and to the best collection of paintings to be seen in this country, of the French school and eminent masters, 14 in number. The garden is 510 feet long and 600 feet broad, and has sf*- ven acres of grot;ind facing the grand battery and overioQk- Caitle of St. Louii. 191 \x\g the harbor, and includes, besides several rows of fruit trees, a bocage of forest trees and a terrace, from which the view of the batiin and distant landscape is truly splendid. The Caalle of St. Louis, the seat of provincial power and government for the two countries, and the sye of Quebec, was destroyed by fire the 23d January, 1834, when the ther* mometer was 22 below zero, arid a fierce westerly wind was blowing. It broke out in a room on the upper story, About noon, and soon spread the whole extent of the roof, and burnt downwards; and though the alarm was given, and the tocsin bounded, all was useless; the engines were instantly frozen, nnd warm water could not be procured in quantity to arrest the fury of the flames — all efforts were powerless. The length uf this edifice was 210 feet, its width 40 feet, its height above the lower town 200 feet ; and apart from (he painful sense of the destruction of an ancient and celebrated building identi- fled with the colonial history, the sight in the day was deeply impressive, and at night grand in the extreme. The extent of the structure, the numerous windows and openings, its great elevation and peculiar position as to the lower town, actually overhanging its streets, so that the burning flakes fell upon the roofs of the houses below, combined to make this triumph of the flames almost a scene of wonder and admiration ; from the lower town it was in the highest degree picturesque, and at a distance the view of the fire, and its reflection on the icd and snow, were singularly beautilul, it being many hours be* fure it WHS consumed. The Chateau, as it is called, yet remains in its blackened, naked walls, as does the firm floor of the gallery or balcony that overlooks, at a giddy height, all below. The gardens also, formed in terraces cut from the face of the precipice, though called hanging gardens by a common misnomer, are yet perfect in their arrangement. Founded by the French in 1623, under Champlain, it par- took of the fluctuations and fortunes of those early days, in being alternately captured by the English, and given up again ; of being bearded even by the ferocious Iroquois, those indo- mitable enemies of ihe French, who more than once massa^ 4'red some friendly Indians in sight of its walls, and threat- fned the fort itself, to the great terror of the French, then weak and powerless ; but at an epoch more recent, after yesrs of repose, when the gristle of its youthful days had been hardened into the bones of mature manhood, and the ' . '? lit ; J if m M "^'"^''■"'"llilMiMli V" \ r JPWP CtuUe qf Si. Lout*. power and pomp of the Gallic kings was transferred and wielded to this remote Siberian shore and climate, then^ it was that the proud occupiers of tliis castle let the full measure of their strength and hatred be liberally bestowed upon the English colonies of North America; then this castle was the focus from whence emanated the mandates that swayed an immense territory, the extent and vast importance of it then Veing little known or appreciated, reaching, as it did, up the noble St. Lawrence and the shores of its immense lakes al- moot to the seat of perpetual frost, and down the endless Mississippi to the balmy region of a constant summer. The ancient ceremonies that were here witnessed, and the acts of arbitrary power inflicted by the vicegerent of Franco, i.i the strict exaction of those forms of servility and submis* sion, by the minute fulfillment of which the noblesse and mi- litary retainers held their lands and places in the province under the crown, and that originated the claifs of rich seig> nora and poor habitans or peasants of tliis day, were all en> acted in this castle, that has been so recently and lamentably destroyed. few Americans are aware that, the English having sue- ceediid to the rights of the French government, this ceremony is still maintained, as a real r.nd substantial obligation, not to be violated without forfeiture and dishonon Ft^ally and homage is rendered at this day by the seigniors, to the governor, as the representative of the sovereign, in the billowing form: his excellency being in full dress and leated in a state chair, surrounded by his ataff, and attended by the attorney-general, the seignior, in an evening dress, and wearing a sword, is introduced into his presence by the inspector-general of the royal domain and clerk of the land roll, and having delivered up his sword, and kneeling upon one knee before the governor, places his right hand between hia and repeats the ancient oath of fidelity; after which, a solemn act is drawn up, in & register kept ibr that purpose, that is signed by the governor and seignior, and countersigv ed by the proper officers. It may be well to state, that the old castle and fort of St. Louis, near the Sault au Matelot, w&.o separate structures, the one in the other, and the 'ort also comprised a magasine, guard-room, and barracks for the soldiers, and a large area in a rampart. k - , The exterior of the last castle was plain, the interior well Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm. Ifli St. adapted for itss purposes. The apartments on the first floor, occupied by the family of the governor^ were furnished in an elegant and tasteful manner, and with paintings, drawings, and prints, and objects of verfu. Though not large as those of the nobility, yet the coup d'cBil of the rooms on the recep- tion days was pleasing. Here were given the parties to which the gentry of the city and vicinity were invited during the winter — always in Canada the season of hospitality. In the old chateau are paintings, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, of George 11 [ and Queen Charlotte, and in the ball-room is a good copy of Sir Thomas Lawrence's full length portrait of George IV. As to the rebuilding of the castle on its former site, on a new enlarged plan, in the present disturbed state of Canada, it is quite problematical. The public offices are in a large building on the corner of Fort-street, south of the site of the castle, and in it also is tiie Muatum of the Canadian Society of Arts, and near by is the Jilonument to Wolfe and Montcalm, on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from th? Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond; in front is a broad walk overlooking the castle garden, the harbor, and the shores of Orleans. The obelisk^ including its surbase and sarcophagus of 13 and 7 Ceetf and shaft of 4*2 feet 8, is 65 feet — dimension at the base 6 feet by 4 feet, and tapering uonically to the apex to 3 feet 2, by 2 feet 5. On the sarcophagus is a Latin inscription, and on the north side " Monlcalm^^ and on the side towarde^ tho river and place of his ascent, '* Wolfed At the corner of St. John and Palace-street, in a niche at the angle of the wall of a public house, •' General Wolfe^a Holelf^'h a dwarf statue of painted wood, depicting him in a coat, cocked hat, and knee-breeches, that has had undue im- portance bestowed upon it. The much ad.nired and invalu^ able bust of Wolfe, that was placed on a pedestal in the cas- tle, at the head of the principal stair-case, was most fortimate- ly preserved, as were the most valuable furniture and effects, during the progress of the destructive element. The spot whore the hero Wolfe died, is indicated on the field of battle on the Plains of Abraham, by a broken column of black marble. II 194 Hide to B^auport and Montmorenei. Ride to Beauport and ]fIontniorencl» nine miles. No traveler of taste should omit making an early visit to this exquisite waterfall. The way to it leads out of the north- west Hide or gate of St. John, through the street and exten- sive and populous suburbs of that name, never tiring, or ending and crossing a large wooden bridge, the interminable French village is entered, that presses closely upon the road, and has a goodly-looking large church, with a dome of two spires coated with tin, bright and dazzling. The traveler having passed over the River St. Charles and the rich meadows north-east of the city, will observe the cheap and simple method of dividing the small cnclosiires ^y stakes driven into the earth and fastened at top by > « with withes, and the herds of cattle, and the lighi carts and sturdy, hardy ponies of the true Norman breed, dragging to market wood and other articles, and perhaps the owner with his pipe and woollen cap, the costume of the Bourgeoige, and in a few miles, after attaining the more elevated ground, will be in the village of Beaufort, that is built, as usual here, on one street, four miles long, reaching to the vicinity of the Falls of Montmorenei. Arrived at this spot, eager xv'ih expectation to view the cataract, that the tourist is aware, from the thundering sound, is close upon him ; a ladder near by, securely placed against the rock, that, if possessed of strong nerves and a good grip, may be laid hold of to descend 70 feet, will place him qn the table rock, exactly on a level with the torrent, and at the fearful verge whence it makes its wild leap into the mist-co- vered abyss, 240 feet beneath. A race-way abstracts a por- tion of the water before it reaches the cataract, and is con- ducted along in a channel of plank down the hill till it acquires H fearful velocity, and acting upon the wheels in the mill at the base, it gives the power that is used for various purposes to a great amount, such as sawing lumber, wool carding, &c. Ladies, and others,, not wishing to descend the ladder, as above, will cross the bridge over the Montmorenei, 100 feet wide, to the east side, and keep alo~>g the same towards the front of the falls. The width here does not exceed 50 or 60 feet, unless under heavy rains and spring floods The fall does not vary more than five degrees from perpendicular, but 1 Folia of Montmorenci. 195 '4 touches some projections in the rock as it falls, that breaks it, and diflfuses into foam and spray, that is increased by its fall- ing upon other rough ledges as it descends to its deep reser> voir. Theadmiration of the traveler will increase as he completes his descent to the foot of the falls, and takes an upward view, and beholds such a sheet of water, the width of two common house fronts, shaking in mid air like a gigantic white ribbon held aloft and displaying its changing snaky folds to the admiration, awe, ecstacy, and terror of the beholder. No one should boast of having seen Montmorenci without having attained this position. By the attrition of the river in the course of ages, it has worn into the bov^els of the rocky precipice a semi-amphi- theatre of 600 feet, back from the St. Lawrence, amid steep side walls of near 300 feet, of limestone, quite rotten, that has in places an appearance of slate or sand-stone. The Colise- um at Rome, large as it is, might be received in this excava- tion, and two more placed on top of it. From the hill east of the falls is a fine view of the island of Orleans, 20 miles long and 6 wide, cultivated like a garden to supply the Quebec market, presenting a pleasing slope to the west, and skirted by a clean sandy beach, as is the main land ; the arm of the river between is slioal, the channel for men-of- war and merchantmen being on the other side. The view also of the harbor from this direction, and of tho slender masts and spars of the distant shipping, appearing diminish- ed to toys, contrasted with the black frowning back ground of the precipices of Cape Diamond and Point Levi, and the bright radiance from the pure dazzling tin covered roofs of the dwellings, public edifices, spires and domes, calls for the re- newed expressions of admiration. Rafls of lumber engross the attention, as many are counted on the surface of the water, and as they are moored in all the coves and nooks of the shores below and above the city, not only from the hnrculean labor bestowed in preparing and wafting several hundred miles, over rivers and rapidri, such unwieldy masses to a distant market, a voyage of weeks, or perhaps months, but also at the immense quantity of shipping ernplf "ed in its transportaiion to Europe. Before quitting th 'se lovely falls, it is recommended to take a 8!iort stroll along its bank, nt some distance above the chute^> tvhere the river flows between lofty rocks, and with 196 Chaudiere Falli. accelerated current, till it passes the geologicAl curiosity calN ed the Sleps^ a work of nnfure wiih the appearance of art, that, aided hy the romantic, tree-crowned, castellated, rocky summits, and the raging current that is seen to dart under the bridge, and over the steep inclined plane of the rock to its final plunge into the bosom of the St. Lawrence, if a good finale of the excursion to Montmorenci. On the way back to the city it may be noticed w lere the black rocks have been exposed by quarrying ; thus they have the aspect of beds of cual, but as seen in Beaufort are the foetid limestone, in strata of mason-like regularity, the scams being vertical and horizontal. It is used in the village for buildir nnd also for making lime. Some of the most grati- fying Vi • r Quebec are obtained on returning from Mont- morenci, t in passing through Lorellc^ a village of half- civilized aboiigines, that occupies a conspicuous emitiencc on the north bank of the St. Charles, seven miles, from the city, that presents new features in the landscape, the rapids of the St. Charles, and the north-west side of the city of Quebec and suburbs in bold relief. The Chaudiere Falls are four miles above its embouchure into the St. Lawrence, and nine miles from the city. The river rises near Lake Megantic, bordering on the United States, in the chain of highlands south of the St. Lawrence, and has a circuitous course of 162 miles, and a breadth of four hundred to six hundred yards, and a bed so incommoded by rocks as to be unfit for navigation. In i. descent from the mountains it is almost a continual succession of cascades, but at the great falls alluded to the stream is 400 feet wide^ and falls 130 feet down a chasm wild, irregular, and fearfully grand. Masses of rock divide the falls into three parts, but they are again concentrated into one grand volume ere they reach the receptacle beneath. The evergreen foliage of the ivoods that overhang the rocks and river are in fine contrast with the snow-white brilliancy of the foaming and roaring waters. The most varied and charming eflfect is produced by the revolving bodies oi' waterand foam issuing from the deep globular excavations worn in the rock, and the spray and mist that is thrown off reflects in the sunshine pillars and arches of prismatic colors and rainbow hues in perfection. Point Levi must be visited en route to the Chaudiere if the land route is adopted, though it can be approached within a short distaoce by boats. JNot withstanding its nearness to the 'Canadian Laws and CuMtoniM. 197 city, the woods on the banks of the river are lo impervious as to render a guide requisite for all strangers visiting the falls. Arnold in his celebrated expedition, in 1775, to attack Quebec, followed Mp the Kennehec and down the Chaudiere to St. Lawrence, J70 iniiei* from Boston. A good road ex- tends from Point Levi up the Chaudiere to the De Loup set- tlement, and also one from Kennebec to the boundary line. Canadian Laws and Customs, dec. The old French laws prevailins; in 1663, viz. the '♦ Paysdu droit ecrit^'Hhe written law, or Roman law, piightly modified as the common Ihw of the land, and the *^Pays coutumier,*^ or law of custom, the feud.il customs of the Franks, and of the tribes that overran France, yet have a governing influence in Canada — lands possessed enfief ti% manors with feudal rights and privileges, or " en rolure,^* with servitude from vassal to the seitrneur, as the maxim was in tho.^e days, " no seigneur without land." Fiues are still levied on all sales of land, and pre-emption, in cer» lin cpses, reserved to the vender; these have had marked influence in the results in degrading the population and character, and retarding the enterprise, and prosperity uf the people of Lower Canada, where these 'customs only prevailed, and their effect in deadening improve* ments and checking the resources, ihe transfer of property chainin!^ down the habiians to their birth-places, and produc- ing a fixed, permanent, and increasing population on the banks of the River !St. Lawrence only, while the boundless interior is left to run waste from the inbred gregarious taste of the ignorant peasantry for village frolics and dancing, wilt ever depress the Canadians in the estinialion of the Mrorld far below that standard of self esteem and independ- ence in thought, word, and action, that prevails in such a marked degree south of the line that separates Canada from a great nation governed and influenced by free and un- shackled, well known, and printed laws, aided by unbounded activity, civil and religious freedom, with institutions that are impressed on a people of such different languages and descent. In Canada (here are no recording ofiices, as in the States, for registering the sales and transfers of real estate, but a sys- tem of secret laws, hypothecations, mortgages, and myste- 17* 198 ' ' Lower St. Latcrence. ries, difficult and almost impossible to trace ordevelope, that renders it extremely difficult to obtain a good and peifect title to an estate in Lower Canada. Half the earnings of the husband during coverture, may, after the death of his wife without children be claimed by her next of kin in hi«i life time, is another of the ancient usages derived from the old French law of custom in by- gone ages, that from its injustice, odiousncss, and singula- rity, would not be tolerated here in the United States for a moment. •/ T LiO'wcr St. liawrencc. - Adequate impressions of the magnitude and grandeur of the magnificent St. Lawrence cannot be fully attained by the casual visiter without devoting a little rim« to a trip down to Mai Bay, or Tadonsac, at the mouth of the Sagumay River, 100 mill's below Quebec, or along on the south shore to A'a- moiiraska, nearly opposite Mai Bay, about 75 miles — a wa- tering or seu-bathiug pl.ice, that is a favorite place of resort in summer ; here are one or two inns and the manor house of M. Tach^ : a wood is on the north to Mai Bay, and on the south to Kamouraska. At Quebec the greatest depth of water is 28 fathoms, and the tide rises 17 to 18, and at the springs from 23 to 24 feet. At the basin the St. Lawrence is two miles across, and in- creases in width to Cape Rosier and the Mingan settlement on the Labrador shore, where it is 105 miles wide. The island of Orleans, at four miles from Quebec, is 20 miles longard five broad, and is in three properties, Drapeau, Poulain, and Du,^*'6. The shores slant gradually to the beach, with only a few rocky cliffs ; next the slopes are large spaces of low meadow land, with patches of arable. Bordering the north the beach is flat and muddy, with reefs of rocks; on the south it is a fine sand with a few pointed rocks. The high- est part of the island is by the church of St. Pierre, four miles from the west end, fronting the Falls of Montmorcnci, and also just above Patrick's Hole, abreast of St. Pierre on the south, at the second telegraph of the chain from Quebec to Green Island. The centre is thickly wooded, the trees small. The soil is fertile ; the uplands have a light earth, with sand and clay ; the lowlands a fine black mould, and naar Island of Orleans — Lotcer St. Lawrence, 199 the sljores blended with sand ; it is poorly watered. There is a good road round thn island, and several crossing it. The churches of St Laurent and St. Jean are near the south shore, but bix miles apart from each other. The way is through excellent and well cultivated lands, richly diversified with orchards and gardens; the grounds rising with an easy slope frotn the ropd, displays the surface to the eye. The houses, in the Canadian style, are close by the r«ad side, at «ihort distances frotneach other. Pat's Hole is a cove and anchoring place, tind on the point is a neat group of houses, where visiters may hoard that wish to ex- plore the island for curiosity or amusement. The market of Quebec is furnished with grain and most sorts of provisions fioin the industrious cultivators of this fertile island ; the population may l)e 7,000. Beyond the island of Orleans are Goose and Crane, and many smaller islands; the two named are cultivated. At Ri- viere du Sud the Si. Lawrence opens to 11 miles in width, and the country increases in its appearance as to beauty, fer- tility, and population ; many churches, telegraph stations, and villages of whitened houses, give life and animation io the scene; and the contrast is observed of the dark thick woods covering the rising grounds hchind them to their summits, and the lofty ranges of the distant mountains termi- nating the noble background. At the Traverse the :St. Lawrence is 13 miles across, yet the Islo aux Coudres, the shoal of St. Rnck, and that of the English Banky interrupt the fair way, and limn the channel used by the pilots to not more than 1,800 yards between the buoys, and here the most intricate part of the river, from the strong, irregular, and numerous currents. Passing the Traverse, a very agreeable view is seen of the settle- ments in the Bay of St. Paul. The Bay of St. Paul is three miles in depth and two miles wide ; it receives the waters of Riviere du GoufTre, a stream of !*of alluvion, the outlets of Htreams tributary to the St. Laurence, and admitting elimpses of the interior villages and churches, and of the far away, rude, bleak, and gigantic mountains. Continuing down the river, the next in succession are the islands of Kamourasca, the Pilgrims^ Hare Island, and the cluster of small ones called the ISranJy Pots, 103 miles from Quebec, the place of rendezvous for convoy. Green Island and tho lighthouse is next passed, and then Red Island, and abreast of it, on the north shore, is the Saguenay, at river re- markable, even in America, for the immense body of water it pours into the St. Lawrence. Bic Island, 153 miles from Quebec, is near good anchorage, and next comes St. Barnabe and the Point aux Peresy and the place to discharge pilots, as from this to the gulf the river is clear. Below this are two very extraordinay mountains close to each other, the Paps of Matane, and nearly opposite to ihem is the bold and lofty promoniory of Afon/ Pelec wherclhe river is little more than 23 miles wide, but the coast suddenly fitretches almost noith, so much that at the seven islands it is increased to 73 miles. Thesettlements on the south side reach down thus far, but to the east of Cape Chat the progress of industry is no lonj^er visible ; rn the north side the cultivated lands extend only to Mai Bay. Taking the land route on the north side to Mai Bay, or on the south to Kamourasca, or rather ^oing down on one tide, crossing the river at the mouth of the Saguenay, where the St. Lawrence 14 18 miles wide, and ascending by the other, you will pass in review almost the entire population of the oldest part of the province, and have exhibited from many elevated positions, extensive reaches of the great river in all the vivid and clear distinctness so desirable and gratifying to the artist and lover of the picturesque. The vast lake like expansions, datted with cultivated islands that are oinamenl- ed with white tenements sprinkled thickly over the Innd, the pretty, dense clusters, and villages of the peasanty gathered around their tia-covered churches, and lofty turrets now seen River Saguenay. 201 in the lowly vale, or surmounting- the distant hill or moun- tain, with the native forests ever in view, amid a people at- tached to thehahits and customs of their Norman ancestors ; the magnificent forms of the mountains, the beauty of the se- cluded but populous valleys, and t he afTectionate simplicity and primitive character of their inhabitants, is, to a citizen of the United States, a source of deep musing at the marked con- trast in manners, customs, language, and the scenery around him, with that he has been accustomed to, and that he will probably most willingly and eagerly, in a few hours, be de- sirous to resume. The river Saguenai/, that unites with the St. Lawrence at Point Allouettes, or Lark Point, is the largest tributary to that stream. It may be traced to its source in Lake St. John, and a collection of waters in north latitude 48° 20', and 72"^ 30' west longitude, receiving many large rivers that flow from the north and north-west from an immense distance in the in- terior, such as the Pickougamis^ the Sable, and the Pariboaca, At its eastern extremity two large streams, one called the Great Discharge, and the other the Kinogami, or Land River, issue from it, that after flowing 57 miles and encompassing a tract of land of. the mean breadth of 12 miles, unite their waters, and form the irresistible Saquenay ; thence it con- tinues its course in an easterly direction for 100 miles to the St. Lawrence. Throughout its course the banks of this river are very rocky and immensely high, varying from 631 feet to 1,020 feet; its current broad, deep, and overwhelming; in some places where precipices intervene, there are falls from 50 to 60 feet, down which the entire (stream rushes with indescri* bable fury and tremendous noise. The general breadth of the river is from 2]^ to 3 miles, but at its mouth it contracts to one mile. The depth of this enormous stream is aUo extra- ordinary. At its discharge attempts have been made to find the bottom with 500 fathoms of line, but without effect ; about two miles higher up it has been repeatedly Rounded from 130 to 140 fathoms, and 60 to 70 miles up its depth is 50 to 60 fathoms. The course of the river, notwithstanding ils magnitude, is very winding, owing to many projecting points from each shore. The tide runs about 70 miles up it, and on account of the obstructions caused by the numerous promontories and hidden reefs, the ebb is much later than in the St. Lawrence ; in consequence of that, at low water in 202 Tour ihrougk New England. the latter, the force of the descending irresistible stream is felt fur miles, although just across its bed, near the m«utl>j is a ridge of rocks buriud 120 feet beneath the iturface ; with- in, or north of this reef, the water is 8 fo900 feet deep, while Qutnde of it the St. Lawrenco is but 250 i'(*et deep. This ex- traordinary barrier of the month of the Saguenay, prevent* ing the simultaneous action of the tides in the two rivers, causes a conflict in the waters that ii, at times, productive of alarm and terror to navigators. Tadousac is just within the mouth of the river, and well sheltered by the surrounding high lands, and is a safe an- chorage for large ships. Cliicoulmu, 75 miles above the mouth, is a post for the fur traders, and here grain ripens ■ooner than it does at Quebec — a singular anomaly of chmate. The Point aux Bouleau.x is an alluvial deposit, and is perhaps the richest soil in the world, being composed of a 0p(>cie8 of gray marl of 30 or 40 feet in depth. This may be the attrac- tion that draws hither many new settlers. Tour through the central parts of New England, via New Haven, Jflcriden, Hartford, and up the valley of Connec- ticut River to the White IVIountains of New Hampshire. The passage from New- York to New Haven from the Beek- man Slip, is usually made in eix hours; distance, 73 miles- fare, $2, in ster.id-boats of the first class. The first hour or so, while gli'ling rapidly by New- York, Brooklyn, the Navy Yard, and Marine Hospital, Williamsbur^h, the Penitentiary, on the long, low and rocky inland, and the richly studded shores, near Hallet's Cove, Hurl Gate, and onwards toThrog's Point, should, if pleasant, be spent on deck, to view the rich and rapidly shifting scene. Leaving behind us the last mentioned point, that is memo- rable from its being, during the revolutionary war, the place of landini; of the British troop?, when they made a forHging and plundering expedit'on into the interior of Connecticut, we open at once upon the broad expanse of Long Island Sound, that extends to the north-east for a hundred miles to TVur throutfh NetD England, 203 Fisher*! If land, and is every way lafe and favorable for navi- gation; but ai the boat advancei, and increaaes its diitance from the shores on either hand, it becomes unintcrestinir from indlitinct neM, except the prominent headlands of Sand's Point, Lloyd's Neck, and Huntington or Eaton's Nrck, light hou- ses on the Long Island shore, and the low islands on the notth at New Rochelie and Norwalk, with the prominent isthmus orShipan and Stratford Point jutting boldly beyond the gene- ral line of the Connecticut shore. In advancing up the harbor of New Haven, the west and the cast rock, two eminences of trap rock, of about 400 feet high, a mile or ttvo back of the city, form n bold feature, and are the terminations of the green-stone ranges of mountains, that extend from the interior of the State towards the sea coast, and that bound on the north-west and north-east the comparatively low plain that contains this beautiful city, its gardens, villas, public squares, shaded streets, churche:^ and colleges. The trap rocks above referred to have a reddish hue, from n trace of iron that, during the decomposition of the horn* blende and feldspar, gives a rusty tinge to the face of the mountain — this red appearance forms a marked charactcrintic in approaching the town, or while in the middle of the sound. Like all similar formations of columnar trap, there are nu* merous fissures and cracks, that admit enow or water, and in winter the formation of ice, that causes the disrupture of the exposed front, when heavy portions of these mountains arc seen to fall with a thundering crash, bringing down quantitieif of debris, that in time have formed a slope at an angle of 45 degrees, that reaches from the base nearly halfway up ; this l^rocessis aided by the hand of man, as the material is valua* ble for building, and as such is used in the adjacent city and country. Legends assign the recesses about the west rock, as the places of concealment of Goff, Whaley, and Dixwell, some of the judges of King Charles the First, that made their escape to this country in 1660, and skulked about this neighborhood to evade the pursuit that was made for them by the officers and myrmidons of Charles the Second. m New Hanen. IVew Haven* • i,fh'i The city is at a distance of four miles up from the mouth of the harbor, that is opposite to the broadest part of Long Island Sound, here 25 miles across ; the harbor is shoal, having but 15 feet in the channel, and but seven and a half feet on the bar, and is fast filling up by the marsh mud, as formerly vessels were built and launched where there are at present meadows and gardens. The town plat was originally laid out in nine squares, each of 53 rods on a side, anXVi ' '1 PVfl 206 Yale CsUegt^ to attenri ; this occupies but a few minutee, when each claii at section files off to the recitation-room, where the tutor offici- ates for an hour; the breakfast in the long hall again assent- bles the entire number of the students and tutors in due or- der and propriety, and five or ten minutes only are allowed to partMkeof this meal, when at the well-known tap of the pre- siding officer, the whole ri^o, ^race is pronounced, and the students are dismissed until nine o'clock, when each pursupg his studies in his allotted roon*, for two hours, and then reiiorts. to the recitation room, as before, for an hour; dinner again assembles the mass of students i::> the college dining hall for a brief period, when they disperse for exercise and retreaiinn until two o'clock, and then rMire to their rooms for study until four — pass another hour in the recitation-room, or in hearini; a lecture from a ptofcssor— again assemble in the ehapel for prayers at six, and after the evening meal are re- quired to be in their respective rooms at study for a certain time, when the lights are to be extinguished. This uniform routine may be varied, but the custom of partaking of the meals together, under the management of a 8t«*ward of respectability, thr.t makes all the purchases of provisions at the lowest cash price, is, that the students may, by this arrangement, be provided for at cost prices and at a trifling remuneration for the lahor of the cooks and purvey* era in addition ; the average price of weekly board, on sti iking the n>;*7terly balance, may be put down at from $1 50 to $3. The tuition bills are $10 per quarter. Strangers that may happen to be in this city on Sun Jay, and think proper to attend the divine services at the college chape! ai the usual hours, ten and two, and in witnesfing the asseinlilage of young men from all parts of the United States but principally from the eastern and middle States, and in hearing the theological lectures of the morning and afternoon, may be highly gratified. The lectures cf the celebrated and highly gifted Professor of chemistry, mineralogy, and geology, can he attended hy procuring cards of admission, and the maf^iujlcent collection of minerals^ before referred to, occupying the room above the dining-hall, and consisting of 60,000 specimens, displayed in glazed cabinets scientifically arranged, and worth, at a mode- rate estimation, 30,000 to 40,000 dollars, and (when taken in connection with the Trumbull gallery) would, of itseifi most richly rewi^r;!! the visiter. •'•■■ -i- \-<&^rlf- Yale College* 207 The annual commencement ii on the third Wednesday in August.* ' Tale College Expensea. ' The college bills nre made out by the treasurer and iteward three time!} a year, at the close ufeach term, and are presented to the studcoti^ who dm required to present them to iheir parents, guardians, or patrona. Ifany student faila to comply with this requisition, he is not permitted to recite tdl the bills are paid. The anuual charges in tlie treasurer's bill •re. For instruction, $33 00 For rent of chamber in college, from $6 to |12— average, 9 00 For ordinary repairs and couiingencies, . . . . 2 40 For geueral damages, sweeping, Ac. about, ... 3 30 For wood for recitation- rooms, about, 1 30 Total, . $49 00 Besides this, the student may be charged for damages done by himselO and a small sum for printing! catalogues and other nccasiouHl expenses. Boud is furnished in commons by the steward ut cobt, altout $1 e7 a week, or $75 a yeiir, not including vacations. It varies, however, with the price of provisions. Wood in procured by the corporation, and dia- trlbuted to tho^e etudnnts who apply for it at cost and charges. The sMdenis provide fur theinnelves bed and beddintt, furniture for their rooms, candles, books, stationar}', and waHhing. There are also iu tii« several cr3asiooks and furniture are »old when the stndtiiit has no furtlier necessity for them, the expeuiies incurred by their use will not be great. The Ibllowing may be considered as a true estimate of the neces^^ary flxpen8e^, without including apparel, pocket-money, traveling, and board in vacations : Treitiirer's bill as above. Board in cominonn, 40 weeks. Fuel and light Ube of books rented und »iiation about $t 2.1. Hy n redolve of the corporntion, a sum not exceeding $l,nCO a year i> appropriated to UiortUef of indigent ktudttnts,aud the encourag«ueuk ofmenu • • $49 00 $49 00 from 70 00 to 80 00 < 800 16 00 « 5 00 15 00 t( 5 00 15 00 «< 8 00 18 00 " 5 UO 7 00 ^8 ^€w Haven. There are in this city two Episcopal, six Congregational, two Methodist, one Baptist, and one Roman Catholic churches, a State house and court rooms of elegant and correct Grecian architecture, on the upper green ; an extensive hotel or ton- tine, and a jail facing the lower green ; a state hospital of stone, stuccoed on the outside, and with a portico of lour columns, the edifice being two and a half stories high, with an attic, and is 118 fcvft front and 48 in depth, with 20 rooms, besides the basement; the erection is on a hill in the south-west, with a view of the city and harbor, and does honor to the State, and to the citizens that contributed to its formation, it being a strictly charitable and free institution for all that may so re- quire it; a custom house, four banks, 10 printing-offices, one daily and three weekly papers, four religious publications, and the American Journal of Science and Arts, edited by Professor Silliman, that has for 20 years sustained, in the most praise-worthy and honorable manner, th^ scientific reputation of this country, and identified himself with its far- famed prosperity. The population in 1838, is estimated at 12,500, and about 1.600 housesi usually of wood, two stories high, neat and com- fortable, but not expensive ; there are some of brick, and the area occupied by the city and the intermingling of gardens, public squares, on a most liberal scale, causes an apparent expansion to the ground plat, adequate to a much greater population. The natural surface is sandy, dry, but by culti- vation makes good gardens, and is quite productive. The steam-boat landing is at the bridge crossing to East Haven at the head of the harbor, and near the dep6t and rail-road leading through the town to Hartford, a distance of 34 miles — time, two hours-— fare, $2. Stages and hacks are always in attendance to take strangers. Here are 12 coach makers^ some of them doing a large business, and the total estimated at half a million of dollars annually, besides the auxiliary branches of plating, coach spring and step making. Boots and shoes, ready made clothing, cabinet work ; chairs are made to a considerable amount, also carpeting. The beautiful residences and villas of many of the citizens« and a glance at the squares and at the churches on the green, and at the neat and extensive burial-place in the north-west part of the cuy, with its monuments and shaded walks, may all be viewed and comprised in an agreeable ride or proms* nade« WhitneyvUU^CoUon Gin, 209 President Dwight, of Y«le College, the author ofthe work on liK'oloify ; Eli Whitney, the inventor of the Cotton Gin, and the "Arkwright*' ot thiri country for ingenuity; Noah \V<^bsier, the philologist n id nuliior ofthe he^t and most ex- tensive Dictionary ofthe Eiitfiish language, that cngHge clous; large quantities of fire arms were here manufactured; it ai present belongs to Blaise. Mr. Whitney, by the invention of the cotton gin, a machine to Heparaie the seeds of the cotton from the filaments, has conferred inestimable beiiefil on his country, as pievioua to this simple but ingenious contrivance, the t»low method of picking out and separating the seeds by hand was used ; and one pound of cotton, thus imperfectly cleaned, was said to be a dity*s woik, but with the u^e ot the gin bl thousand pounds a day may be done, and more eirectuully. Cotton could not profitably be exported under the old 8ys> tcni of hand picking, but at present forms the principal item of our foreign export trade, to tb unouni of ^80,000,000 to $1(10,000,000, besides ihequaiitii^ on^nmed in the United States, about one-fouith as much; ttiis incoix-eivahle aniount of onr national resources and means of butter with foreign nations has arisen entirely since 1788, and is thv result o> VI r. Whitney's perfect invention, that at once trebled in value the iHuds and the latiors of the old southern States and planters. Bui Mr. Wiiitney never reaped any essential l>eiiefit from his patent, from the multiplicity of persons that inlriitgv d upon iiim on every side, and that set at defiance all his claims and the constituted authorities. This neat village, that presents its row of substantiHl .ue hou'-^es, of two sioriejt, stuccoed and whitened, and tiic: !»pa- ciuu!i factory a.id workshops aJjaceni, that yield employment to the population, is a fair sample of many such places that vill he encouniered by the travel ■ in his progress through the eastern Slates. The stream that is here p ssed yiehls uumeruus gites for luilis and machinery, and at tho Cariuei 18* 810 Farmington Canal-^ Rail-road to Hartford. works, six and a half miles from New Haven, ii a factorj for making coach and elliptic springs, steps, and azietreea, one carriage, one brass factory, one paper-mill, and others of a mi- nor kind, besides an orchard of mulberry trees, of 100 acres, and silk making therewith connected. *' Mount Cartnel, eight miles north of this city, is of a conical shape 6 or 809 feet in elevation, and is of a ' ery conspicuous and striking character in its outline as the city is approached, and has a rather precipitous front towards the west. At its base is a contracted gap, through which passes the Mill River, theold turnpike, and the Farmington Canal, here cut in rock. This canal extends from the sea side at New Haven, near the head of the long wharf, and passing through the centre of the city, winds round to the west, near where the traveler crosses it on leaving the city, not far from the new burying- ground, and the mansions of James Hillhouse, Esq, and of Professor Silliman, and is continued, in a northerly direction, throug:h Hampden, Cheshire, Southington, and Farmington, where it crosses the river of thut name, and pursues its valley north to Simsbury, and thence to Granby, and in Massachu* setts, Southwick and Westfield, where it crosses the tuo rivers of that name, in Hampden county, and thence into South- ampton, in Hampshire county, terminating at Northampton. That part ofthe canal within the Massachusetts boundary, and of the charter of that State, is the Hampshire and Hamp- den Canal, and the total length from New Haven to North- ampton is 63 miles, with a rise of 140 feet. This may, at a future day, be valuable stock for 'he proprietors, but it is at this time difficult to say what pecuniary motives could have operated to prompt or urge the construction of this work. The Raii«road to Hartford *»yvki extends from ihe eastern part of New Haven, called theNewr Township, round in front of the East Rock before described, and then assumes a route up the valley of the Quinnipiag, through Northhavcn and Wallingford to Meriden, and thence to Berlin. The grade is highly favorable, and crosses the Quinnipiag River two milen east of New Havct near the village of Fair- haven, where there is a bridge, and a village of a thousand inhabitants, and a Methodist and i Congregational churchy vicifiity €j JiaTtfonlt '/. end an acndemy. The oyster trade is the principal bniineM of the inhabitants from October to April. They are brought here in great quantities, and planted in beds in the salt water, and when fattened or fit for market, are taken up and sold, employing many boats. Twenty vessels, amount- ing to 1,180 tons, are owned here; six trade to the West Indies, the others engage in coasting. The procuring and selling of building stone, with which this town abounds, ia another source of attention, also the making of lime from oyster shelh. In proceeding through North Haven, the most important feature of the landscape is the wide and beautiful tracts of salt meadows along the Quinnipiag River, studded with stacks of hay in the summer season, and only removable during the thick ice of winter. The northern part of the vnlley is sand, subject in small places to be drifted, but the ot'ier parts hava a thin covering of loam, of a reddish cast, and better in <}uality. Millions of brick are here made for the city. The lea'^ned Ezra Stiles, the President of Yale College from 1778 to 1795, was born in this town ; and Dr. Trumbull, the histo- rian of Connecticut, was the minister of the Congregational church here for near 60 years, and his regular salary for that period was only four hundred dollars a year: he died Febru- ary 2, 1^J20, aged 85. His rej>idence was the house south of the Episcopal church. New edifices of brick have lately been erected for the two churches above. The road proceeds up the valley to Wallingford, on the east bank of the Quinnipiag, 13 miles from Netv Haven, and along the Wallingford plams, that are four miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide, one of the most sterile and extensive tracts of level land in the State. The prevailing surface of this township of land, however, for seven miles east and west by six in breadth, is moderate hills and dales, and mountains in the east. There are several mills and fac- tories on the river; at Yaleville i«t one of britannia and tin ware, and one for wood screws. The principal village occu- pies an elevated site a mile AP«t of \:ke river, on two parallel streets on the ridge of the hil! ; the one on the west is over a mile long. There are three churches, and only one with a steeple. Lyman Hale, one of the signers of the Declaration of In- dependence, was a native of this town. He graduated at Yalo Collei^o in 1747, and at first made theology, and aAer 212 Meriden^Manvfaeturn. I ■ thnt medicine, hUprnfeaflinn, and went to Georgia find retiidrd at Miiitvuy; wftnl tu lh»: cotiiiiit^ntal C«>n^ie8s in 1775, and was atleru'tirdo (iovernor of Ueorgia, nnd during spvurul yeuis ivHJdcd at Savannah, and after, in the upper pari of thai SmK', where he di<>d in i7l)0. It has b> t'li sngijesied that ih<; Connecticut River formprly had one oi' its outtets ahtng :ii6 wide vale extending Iruin Durham and to the Soi nd al New Haven. Mcriltn is 17 mdes tVoni New Havtn and from Hariford, and is ihu:^ the half-way hou'^e, and hoaatsot having one of the beet houses of entertainment on the road At a distance of three mih's to the west \» seen another considerable nioutttain range and peak, of the trap or f>rren< stone formation, that Dr. Dwis^hl gtarrs in his travels waa gome yars sin 'eculleii Mtninl Lamentation, from the singular circumstance kH,door latchef, wood conil>-i. skates and iron rakes, giidirons, and two iron foni)de« rie* — the vahie of the aggregate production being .$800,000 to $1,000,000 >euily; a bank capital of $100,000. There is an Epi'copal, a Baptist, and a CongregalionHi church. On the road from Meriden to Beilin ts a narrow and romantic glen, between two ridges of the Bine Mountains, of a mile in ex- tent, known as the Cat Hde or Ltn of the ferocious catamount, the form'T tiger and terror of this fearful pass, that in S'.me pat til >ietds scanty pathway, from the fallnig down of small angular pieces of rock from the precipices, forming the u-ual slope of 45degrees. A tew yardttio the south, by examining the impending face and anules of the precipice, the profile uf a homau fare c»n readily brf deterted. having the lineuinenis ol General Washington. A much rnoie remarkable profile is described in this volume, in Franeonia, in New Hamp- shire, (see Index.) In 1784 the first stage in C«nnuc- ticnt ran through iiere, on the old road to the west, now occu- pied by the rail-road. At a certain part of the Cat Hole pass, i«e may be oblaititid at all times, beucath the huge iuaa»ib«A of Berlin — Manufatiuret, 213 cock that lie heaped around in confusion, as they have been precipitated from the surrounding crags and eminences. A spring beneath «ends forth its water of an icy coldness, and a handsome village extends about a mile on the road, where it occupies a beautiful eminence, and has agreeable views. Btrlin^ or Wcrlhin^ton, is our next settlement, and is 33 miles from New Haven, 1 1 from Hartford, and 8 from Wcth- ersfield ; has 80 dwelling houses, five stores, a Congregational, a Methodist, and Uiiiversalist church, and an academy. The southern termination of the green-stone range of mountains is within a short distance. Ten thousand boxes of tinned plates have here been made into culinary vessels in one year. The manufacture of tin ware has been for a century past the chief employment of the people in this township, but this is now especially the case in the parish of New Britain, that is situated five miles north-west of Berlin, and three west of the rail- road, and that is only 15 yeani since the first house was built, around a marshy spot, that has since been drained, and now the village contains from 1,.^00 to 2, 000 in habitants, with three places of public worship, a Congregational, Meth* odist, and Baptist, and 45 factories of brass, and some of tin. employing 700 hands, and a ct^pital of $650,000« It is 10 miles from Hartford, and 28 from New Haven. If the cu- rious traveler can spare time vo step aside to visit this indus- trious place, the seat of industry from whence proceed those welcome messengers of household comfort throughout the land, the pedler's wagon, loaded with utensils and imple- ments of tin, brass, &.C., he can examine the germs and the de- tails, or minutise, of this noisy, bright, and profitable trade, that has contributed essentially to the fame and prosperity of a worthy class of men, that have been much traduced abroad, but at home are much respected. Newington, a village of 650 inhabitants, and a Congrega- tional and a Methodist church, is situated in a vale at the west of Cedar Mountain, that is passed by the traveler in a short distance east. About a century and a half since, the first settlers built a dwelling that was used for years as a fort, and had a high wall to guard against surprise from the abo- rigines, that were very numerous, and resided near a pond for the facility of fishing. The fort was resorted to at night bj mM the whites. 214 Asylunufor Deaf and Dumb, and Intone. ;^"»^4:i*'iWA ■«.,.li'',.<- .■■■/»^-- '■<»-. *ii:.l', ■:!■•■.: Hartfordy J*T Upon the Connecticut River, htm about 12,000 inhabitants^ and is 50 miles from iho mouih of the river, ami 123 from Mew-York, and it alternately with New Haven the «eat of the Legislature ; and hai< a Slate House on the principal •quarc, and a City Hall, of elegant appearance, with a portico ot six cidiiinns at each front. The neinhboringf country it fertile, and the whole county ranks wiih Hampshire and Hampden in Massachusetts, in fertility, wealth, population and intelligence. The Jimerican Asylum for the f/ea/and dumb, the first of the kind e5ttal»IiKhed in the United States, wa<« founded in this city in 1815, and the present edifice was built in 1820, and is ISOIeot lon^, 5(> wide, and four stories hi^h, beHides a dming hall and workshops for the males ; there are 10 acres uf land for cidtivHtion, and ample room for exercise. From the small beginning of seven pupils it now has an average of 140 on the premiseH. They usually remain four or five yeais, and pay $100 each a year; are in nine classes, with a tea« lier to each, and a |»rincipal, (Mr. J. H. Galkudet,) that has the su- pervision iind instruction of the whole, and a steward and a matron, to manage the houseliohl. It has partaken of the bounty of the State and of the nation, in a valuable town- ship of land in Alabama, 27,000 acres, and the proceeds saf^- ly iuvpsli'd. This, and the other benevrdent establishments that reflect so much liomtr on the enlitjbtcned citizens of Hartftrd, are ait well located uithe vicinity of the city, and draw hither the philanthropic and intellijy;ent stranger on the afternoons of Wednesday, when nil the classes of deaf nnued is the French, modified by Mr, GhN liiidet and hix H^ni^tants, and is the natural laoguntre of feigns, or those that a dumb one will use linfore cotYiuig here, co'iibniirit; pictorial, descriptive or corwentionai, and in the suhod rnoni i* for lan- guage, an i the manual alphabet and wiitten symitols, to ex- pre!*s ihf* granimalicul rr Istifn;* of words. Tin* Relrmt for the Iiisant is an exl^^nsive edifice of un- hekvii lret»>4«o(i<», overed wiih water-pi-oof cement, white, and conciiits of a square centre editice of three stories, auU 5U fwd Wathin^n College. 215 hi front, with two wings of two storicf, containing the corri- dort, each of — feet, and terminating at each end in threo ftorioftf of the proper proportion. It isiitiiated one mite and a quarter f^oin the city, in a south-west defection, on an emi- nence tliat overlooks ihe beautiful vale of the Comieclicut, and unfficiently near the public road to have a degree of ani- mation imparled to the inniatea and Iteholdem, from the liveliness of the moving carriages and vehicles, and the agree- able composition of the landscape. Extensive gardens and walks, covering 17 acres, are attach- ed to these preiniscH, for the recreniipn and health of iho inmates that are indulged with this liberty, and to others are allotted court-yards, so arranged and guarded by high walls and fences as to allow the benefit of fresh air and exercise to those whom it would not be .safe to permit to roam in t,>e more open grounds ■ Riding and other amusements not doors, and a copious library and reading-room within, furnished with light and amusing Works, and newspapers and perioefore the adop« tion of this christian system, in Ihe retreats of the prtient day, every generous and feeling heart cannot but nutrk and bless the change. IVashingfon College is an institution of twelve years stand- ing, under Bpiscopal influence and management, and has a president, six professors, and two tutors, and 80 students, with a collection of eight or nine ihousMnd volumes, a garden and ^reen house, and a cabinet of minerals, philosophical apparatus, and laboratory. Its buildings are of the sand- stone of this region ^ one of 148 fi'ci by 43, and four storief high, contains 48 rooms for dormitories and study ; and one Si by 53. and three sturjes high, with n tower, and colonnade, and portico, for the chapel, library, cabinet, lecture, and recita- tion-rooms. It is in a flourishing condition ; the anniial commencement the first Thursday in August. '^i^ ' The city presents a tolerably compact front of about a mile vn the river, and extends back three quarters of a mile, and has many handsome and attractive private residences, and itiseps in employ a daily line of first* rate st€am<>boat8 to New* 111 216 Wad9Wor1h*» Toieer'^Eati Hartford* York, the price of paisage bfeing very fluctuating, from 0119 to two dollars, and the time occapying about 12 hours. There are also two steam passenger- boats employed between this and Springfield, and several others in towing flat boats of 15^ to 30 tons to Wellx* river, 220 miles up, and to the interme- diate towns on the Connecticut. There is also a limited foreign and coasting trade in sloops, &c. The manufacturing industry of this place produces, by re- cent computation, near a million of dollars annually, from the tin, copper and sheet iron, block tin and pewter ; boots and shoes, hats, soap, candles, printing-presses, ink, books, sad- dlery, carriages, paper-hangings, looking-glasses, unrbrellas^ ■tone ware, cabinet furniture, machinery, wire-cards, web- ing, founderies for iron castings, clothing; twelve weekly^ two semi*monthIy and one monthly newspapers. There are five Congregational, one Episcopal, two Baptist, one Me« thodist, one IFniversalist, one Roman Catholic, and one Afri- can places of public worship. The Episcopal, and some of the other churches, are tasteful edifices. There are five banks, a bank for savings, three insurance offices, two markets, a museum, arsenal, &c. There is a bridge of f,000 feet in length, cost $100,000, that crosses the Connecticut River to East Hartford, and another bridge of one arch, of sandstone^ over the Mill River, of 100 feet width, seven feet in thickness at the base, and three feet three inches at the centre, and 30* feet above the bed of the river. ' '*» Wadswortli's Tower, at Monte Video, about sevew miles in a westerly direction from Hartford, on the summit of Talcot Mountain, is a conspicuous obfect for miles around, being about 800 to 1,000 feet above the river, and having a very extensive panorama and a bird's-eye view of the Farmingtow Valley, river, and canal, and village, and the mountain lake, and the elegant residence and grounds of the tasteful own- er, D. Wadsworth, Esq. -' t'^V .^^ At West Hat I ford is another instance of a clergyman (Dr^ N. Perkins) having ofiiciated for near 70 years in the same pulpit. East Hartford. The causeway connected with the Hartford bridge over Connecticut River, extends about a mile in a di- rect course across the meadows to the main street in East Hartford, and on reaching this position, near the new and elegant Congregational church, the travder cannot but ad- nire the noMe rMtge of elms that adorns and distinguishes /:k«S^ £a$l Hartford, %^^-> ■%i:^S 217 this town, and with the other ornamental trees at the side of this spacious street, forms a vista of great extent and depth of shade, that, in the heat of summer, and the season of full ver- dure, must render this a most desirable residence. Due praise should be awarded to those towns and cities where (He inhabitants have exhibited such a praiseworthy ex- ample oi taste and liberality, in planting, and cultivating, and preserving these venerable trees for a series of year$, such being the best, cheapest, and most efficient and gratifying way of endearing a town to the residents and visiters, and ele- vating and ennobling the public taste. Most of the inhabitants in this town reside on one street, about three* quarters of a mile from, and parallel with, the river, and it extends north and south for 15 or 20 miles, from Glastenbury to East Windsor. The meadows along the Connecticut are proverbial for their inexhaustible fertility, caused by the annual inundation, or freshet, in the spring, and occasionally by heavy rains in summer. After rising fifteen or twenty feet, by a steep bank, these meadows extend three miles to the east. The Hocka- nur River, a fine mill stream, enters this town from the north-east, and abounds in water-power; and at Scotland village, two and a half miles distant, are five large paper- mills, where the paper used by Congress is by contract manufactured. r At Rocky Hill, three miles south-south-west from Hartford, on the old road to Farmington, is an open quarry 44 feet deep, affording a gratifying facility to the geologist in beholding the junction of trap-rock ahd sandstone. This trap ridge trends north-east and south-west, like a fortification. The trap is 28 feet thick, and the sandstone 16 beneath, in hori- zontal layers, and this extends for nearly a mile in this quarry, exhibiting a splendid section of both rocks, the red, and the green, or gray, in fine contrast. The scene here, too, is re- markably fine, presenting on the east the rich valley of the Connecticut with its ci(.y and villages, and on the west the lovely vales of Newington and West Hartford, with a distant frame-work and border of hills and mountains on the north and south. Dutch Pointt at the mouth of Mill River, near the steam paper-mill, is memorable as being the site of the fort erected by the orders of the Governor of New Amsterdam, when a ■^ ««wii!'i»*;i»tv*i-,Tp(5^ :v'?i' 313 Dutch PoifO^Charter Oak. W. i !l smiill force was tent to protect the settlement here attempted in 1638. The venerable charter oak yet existf , at the foot of Wylly'i Hill, near the south meadows, and can be seen from the main ■treet. Its trunk is 21 feet in circumference, the tree is vigor- ous, and with care may yet outlive many generations, al- though 200 years since it was in its prime. The cavity where the charter was concealed, after it had been adroitly with- drawn from the council-board, in 1687, in the dusk of the evening, where Sir Edmund Andros, the English Governor, was at the time presiding, and had come here expressly to annul and take away this charter so precious in the estima- tion of the people of those days, was near the roots of the tree, and large enough to admit a child ; but within ten years past this cavity has miraculously closed, no doubt to the disappointment of thousands that will hereafter ^visit it, as pilgrims, from all parts of the republic. The VVyliy family, in succession, that here resided, held the office of Secretary of Connecticut for 80 years or more, from 1740 to 1820. - Stages daily communicate with the towns up'the river by good roads on either bank, or to Litchfield and Albany on the west, to New London and Providence on the east, or to Worcester and Boston by rail-road at the nearest point at Springfield. The accommodations for travelers, in continuing north up the valley for 260 miles, are ample and satisfactory, by the river, or by stage and by steam passage-boats, to Springfield and onward. Five miles from Hartford, on a hill, is a complete view of the valley, and ten miles on, the houses are at regular distan- ces, as it were a continued v llage of decent comfortable re- sidences. The land has three grades above the river, the lowest subject to freshets, the next is just beyond this limit, and the last is hilly, and clad with pines. BissePs Farm, eight miles from Hartlbrd, is seen in going to tlie ferry to East Windsor, and is a well managed and extensive property. Warehouse Point is at the head of sloop navigation, and is a considerable village, 13 miles above Hartford, on the east shore. "I- The view afibrded thus far of this rich alluvial border of Route through Connecticut Valley^ Windsor. 21f the Connecticut, may be considered as a fair sample of the en- tire valley to the Canada line, and we are sure that all travel- ers, seeking for amusement and change of air, and the most attractive mountain scenery in the eastern states, will derive much pleasure from continuing their route onwards as far at the Gulf Road in Vermont^ to Lake Champlain, or up the vale to the White Mountains c T New Hampbhire, and there taking the road to Portland and Boston. The roads through- out are uncommonly good, and traveling expenses moderate, and the fare satisfactory, and the hotel and tavern*kcepera solicitous to please ; and as there are bridges and ferries at short distances, both sides may be alternately traveled, amid a dense population of intelligent and well-informed inhabi- tants, and a succession of neat and pleasing rural abodes, villages, towns, and cities. Windsor. The first settlement of this town was in Octo- ber, 1634, near the mouth of Farmington River, two miles south*eastof the bridge and church, and the house was forti^ fied against the Indians and the Dutch barely in time to guard against their attack, and to protect the settlers from an early and severe winter, that on the 15th November set in with severity and closed the Connecticut. The population, consisting of about 1,900, is scattered in farm houses along the public road. Oliver Ellsworth, Chief Judge of the Supreme Court of the United States, in 1796-9 resided in this town, a mile north of the churchy in the house with two pillars and a grove of elms in front, with one of the primitive cedar treea near; he was an eminent jurist, and eloquent at the bar and in the Senate of the United States ; he died in 1807. Roger Wolcott, Governor of the State from 1751 to 1754, was also born in this town, 1679, and rose, hy the force of his intellect and native talents, to the highest honors; he was a poet also, as may be seen in the collection of the Historical Society relative to the Fequot wars ; he lived to the venerable age of 89. At Pine Meadow^ opposite Warehouse Point, are the locks and the beginning of the canal round the Enfield Falls. Farmington Rtver, the principal tributary of the Cennecti- ciit, is crossed as we proceed. It rises in Berkshire County, Massachusetts, at the base of the Hoosack range of moun- tains, and runs south-east to Farmington, and then turns abruptly to the northeasts ,f' :.r,hy ,• M 320 Theol. Insiitute-^Jonathan Edwards — John Fitch, East Windsor is a town of one continuous street, with the houses straggling for miles on the first elevation above the meadow, about a mile east from, and parallel with, the river. The Theological Institute, eight miles from Hartford, here lo- cated, is under Presbyterian influence, and was established in 1834. A large edifice of brick, and 4 stories in height, comtains rooms for 52 students, with stoves and fixtures ; tuition and room-rent free, and also the use of the library of 3,000 vol- umes. A farm of 60 acres, and workshops with tools, give adequate exercise, and preserve the health of the students. Rev. Jonathan Edwards, the most celebrated theologian in the country, was born in this town in 1703, a mile north of the First Congregational Church, near Staughton*s Brook. His father was also a distinguished clergyman, and a relic of his house is worked, or placed, in the wall of the Theological Institute, from the homage and respect that attached to the distinguished fame of the family^ Eight volumes octavo comprise the labors of his life as a writer on theology, and his literary celebrity is as extensively known in England as in America. John Fitch* the undoubted inventor and constructor of the first steam-boat in this country, was also a native of this town, but at middle age removed to New Brunswick, (N. J.) and engaged in clock-making, engraving, and as an armorer dur- ing the war of the revolution. In 1786 he first had the idea of using steam as a power to propel a boat, and in 1788 he had matured it and acquired a patent, and with the aid of 20 friends, that lent $50 each, a boat was built, and propelled by steam eight miles an hour. He went to France^ saw Mr. Vail, our consul at L'Orient, and with him left papers and drawings that were exhibited to Fulton, or Livingston. The revolution there, and the want of confidence in the invention here^ and of capital, compelled him to drop the matter, and it was for- gotten. But even then, (such was his remark to Dr. Ritieu' house,) " This will be the mode of crossing the Mlanlic in time.** Unfortunately this man lived an age too soon, and he went to Pittsburgh, where his long series of disappointments em^ bittered his life and brought it to a premature close, by his precipitating himself into the Alleghany. The Connecticut River, at Enfield, is 1,000 feet wide, and the first bridge over it in this State was made in 1808, on six >*. V Shaker Vitlage—SuffieUL 331 Itonie piers, on the rocky bed below ;, it was 30 feet wide, and cost $26,000. This not suificing, in 1832 the present one was put up on the plan of Ithiel Town, Esq. of New Haven, and like tne one over f'armington River at Windsor, at a cost of only $15,()00, on the diagonal or cross-timbered diamond arrangeihen^. A mile froni Enfield Bridge, and 18 from Hartford, and eight from Springfield, is the manufacturing village of Thomp- sonville, that in 1828 was commenced for the making of carpets; i20 looms are employed, and 800 yards daily finished. Population 800. cir whom 300 are employed in this business. ;, Like other town^ bordering this river, ISnfield is possessed of an endless street, more or less dotted over with houses or forms, and on a parallel with the river. The making of ploughs if a business h^re^ The Shaker Village, five miles north-east, cah here be visited if convenient. They compose about 200 porSons that live in celibacy ; have 50 houses, work-shops, storek, &.c. all having an aspect of nieatness, comfort, and convenience, differing from the world aroUnd them. A thousand Acres of land, of the best seen^ is, under their industrious management, made ^ source of wealth ; they are in every respett similar to their brethren of the same principle in Niskayiina, New Lebanon, and other places, though not as numerous or well known. Their gardening, horticultural, and manufacturing employ- ments and productions are in high repute. Their mode of worship and of dancing, or skipping, is the great source of attraction to visiters wherever tbe^are; they are under the iaflnence of t^rtful and zerlous bigots and leaders, and are steeped in ignorance and superstition. The Podunk and Scantic rivers are small streams that run from the elevations on north-east, and have a south-west bourse of 10 or 15 miles, with falls^ mills, &,c. and join the Connecticut at and below Windsor. On the former was a large tribe of Indians, and their burying- ground was near where the Podunk crosses the maitl road. Saffield township is considet-ed to be one of tht best tracts of land in the State, and adjoins the Massachusetts line. The principal street is over a mile long, contains two of the churches, Congregationalist and Baptist, and the Connecticut Literary Inslitutionbelonging to the Baptist Education Society, that is centrally situated 16 miles north of Hartford, and 10 19* 'd ill 222 SuJUldt ifdi \:4 1 ^1^ HI 19 south of Springfield. In 1835 it was Incorporaittd ; it k d brick edifice, 72 feet long, 34 wide, and four stories high, and has 24 rooms. There 18 a dwelling house for the steward, and 16 acres of land, and he furnishes board and washing for the moderate sum of $1 25 per week .■ • ^^.,v#, '.! IS» >■' ^ , NorihafnpioH. Northampton* 225 Norlhamp*:m was settled in 1654, and such was the supe- riority of this tract over any in the eastern part of this State, that all the intervening portion was neglected, and the hardy settlers preferred to settle amidst the then distant wilds of this smiling region, attracted by (he fertile flats, and undaunt- ed by the hordes of savages ; and a great part of the State between Boston and Connecticut River was unsettled for 50 or 60 years after Springfield and Northampton. The surface of the township is delightful, with orchards, meadows, and a picturesque grouping and harmony of ob- jects agreeable to the eye. There are ten important streets radiating from a common centre or focus, and there are 300 or 400 houses, and 1,6U0 to 3,000 inhabitants j and of these, from a late census, 120 were over 60 years of age, and 60 over the age of 70; and as an evidence of its general health, the deaths are from one in 80 to 90 each year. The Indian name of the place, was Nonotuck, and the price paid them by the whites for the tract from South Had- ley Falls to Hatfield, and 10 miles west of the river, , or 90 square miles, was 100 fathoms of wampum by tale, and 10 coats! This land, now composed as it is of the choicest spot in New England, is cheaply valued at half a million of dol- lars ; in 15 years from the purchase it was sold or valued, in lots, at j£5 sterling the acre ! The town is on the west side of the plain, and one mile from the river^ and is deeply embowered beneath the shade of venerable elms and other shade-trees. Some dwelling- houses, recently erected, are in a chaste and beautiful style of architecture. The majority of the others are neat but not exponsire. The principal hotel is agreeably placed on a ter- race overlooking the town and surrounding country, a little aside from the centre of the town — it is spacious and well kept ; others are in the lower streets. it is more an agricultural than a manufacturing pfaee^ but for five years past it has entered with spirit and success into the silk business, the planting of mulberry trees, and ra>i8ing and tending the silk worm, &c. by a company with ample capital, and hitherto with distinguished success. Printing- presses, paper mills, bookstores, are in full employment, in the midst of intelligent and well educated communities. If the character of a people is influenced by the grandeur 1 I ^'I^M Mount Holyoke, of the hills and mountains, And the rich scenery amid which they are born, and dwell, and nurtured, the highly- favored inhabitants of this tovrn must be ranked as the especial fa- vorites of Providence. Eminent men have abounded or resided in this town — the Rev. Solomon Stoddard, and his son, the Hon. John Stod- dard ; and the two celebrated divines, Rev. Jonathan Ed- ^vards, the great theologian, and his son> both of them Pre- sidents of colleges-^the former of Princeton, and the latter of Union College, Schenectady ; Caleb Strong, Governor of the State, and Judge SHrong. 1 In Southampton, eight miles, is a tunnel penetrating a con- siderable distance into a hill, and leading to a lead mine that may be worth visiting by the mineralogist or geologist to acquire specimens of the ore. Round Hill is a beautifully wooded spot with a large airy mansion^ and has of late been occupied as a school for boys of a superior grade. It is a short distance west of the com- pact part of the settlement, and like the hotel in the vicinity, has a capital panoramic view of the mountains, plains, riven, and all the villages and distant church steeples, Amherst Gol> lege, &c. People come far and near on purpose to make the fashions- able exploration to the summit of Mount Holyoke on the east or opposite side of the river to Northampton. Its summit is about 900 feet above the river ; and to visit it pursue the road to the ferry that crosses to its base, where the active pedes- trian can easily wend his way up a rather steep ascent by means of the stone steps and platforms that soon enable one to surmount all difficulties and attain the summit of this re- nowned elevation. It is by no means for its Uncommon or superior elevation to others that this is so much visited, but it is that it rises up in the midst of a level and richly cultivated country, like an Egyptian pyramid in an immense garden, with a river likethe Nile or the Ohio serpentining through the lowlands and ap- proaching twice to the very base of the mountain, and again receding and vanishing beyond the gorge to the souiii, that gives this mountain retreat its popularity and fame. The Mountain House at Catskill i» three times as elevated as this, but is remote from the river and wants the same cul- tivated foreground and rich meadow that is here seen, and Ihe highlands and points at Fishkill and New Windsor are in Mountain Setntrf. >'A A'l m rl like manner deficient, nnd are not bo readily accesiible aa this position. The beholder here ia fully aware of the tow- ering height and of the deep plunging view and sweep of tho horizon that greets his ravished sight ; the formation and gradual rise of the ground as it rises from th« western bank of the Connecticut towards the distant elevations in the rear, give one the facility of looking deep down as upon the oblong, open, expanded pages of a volume beneath the eye, and tracing the minute and gorgeous details of this wonderful exhibition. The pencil of Cole, the landscape-painter, has *"t ^ -:i ^ lip ^ :>?: ■ ■«i9m I S40 Uaverhillr— Lancaster. 4 above, latitude 45°. The upper bar is at the north-cast comer of the township of Daltou, above the long rapids or Fifteen Mile Falls. The road,that (as above) forks to the south-east, goes through Franconia, (see index, and old man of the mountains,) and to the iron-works — but the road to the Notch of the White Mountains strikes off directly east, at the forks first mention- ed, in Littleton, and goes through Bethlehem. From Dalton to Lancaster is 14 miles, eight being rough, and so covered with stones that for three-quarters of a mile no footsteps of man or animal is seen. At the northern declivity of the mountains that bound Dalton on the east, is a long and narrow flat. Lancasteff our ultima thule to the north on this road, is built on a plain the north side of Israefs River. The street is Haifa mile long, and of commendable width. Israel's River pervades the township centrally, has its ori- gin in the recesses and glens of the White Mountains ; is 30 miles long, and abounds with choice mill sites. Intervals, plains, and hills are the general features of its banks. The meteorology of this quarter is modified, influenced, or governed by the proximity of the lofty mountains on the east, the storms or falls of rain or snow generally coming from the north-west or west. At Lancaster are three remarkable msfoorproloi^ged vales, diverging from this as the focus. The first is in a south- west direction, or down the Connecticut for 30 miles, where for 20 miles of the lower part the mountains compress opon the river, and form the long rapids or Fifreen Mile Falls, and above them at Dalton, eight miles south of Lancaster, the ex- pansion begins, and soon becomes six miles wide, and is of that width for 15 miles up. The second is to the sooth- east, and is 20 miles long and 12 wide, and }ead» the eye to the Little Moose Hillock and the Litttetnn ranges, and terminating with the White Mountains, rising majestically and filling the horizon in grand style. The thifd is to the east, up the valley of the upper Ammanoosock, 20 miles long and eight broad, also terminating on the g^nd sierra of the White Mountains. " 1^= ,- , These long mountain-galleries, all seen in succession, with lofty walls or sloping sides, give to the whole a frame-work and a finish that is unrivalled in its nobSe character and effect. f i^l Bethlehem. 241 The vista up the Ammanoosuck is very line, being in the form of an inverted arch or bow, traced with beauty and taste, up the river to the mountains. The peaks of this range are two regular cones of singular beauty. The whole magnifi- cent range of the Moose Hillock is completely exposed to view for 20 miles, its summits sculptured, shaped, nnd diver- siiied by the masterly hand of nature. v The next towns north, on the west of the river to the Cana- da line, are Guildhall, Maidstone, Brunswick, Minehead, Lemington, Averill, Canaan, and on the east of the river next 1o Lancaster, is Northumberland, Stratford, Columbia, Cole- brook, Stewartatown, and in 12 miles is the beautiful lake, four miles in extent, that forms the extreme source of the river that we have been tracing upwards, step by step, from its mouth. Bethlehem'is 15 m'ules west of the White Mountains, as we advance up by thd side of the Ammanoosuck. The view from the hill in this place is extensive and pleasing ; on the east. Mount JVashington, and the nest of peaks assembled beneath and around, £11 up and form the most imposing outline in the horizon. Our way leads us through the Breton JVoods, an extensive tract of primitive forest for five miles to a tavern. In a mile we again arrive on the banks of and cross '.he Ammanoosuck ; after passing through dense woodland bushes, and a narrow road, the ascent then begins on an easy slope up the base for two miles, where the Ammanoosuck is crossed for the fast time ; in a few rods we are on the dividing ridge, and meet the waters of the Saco taking a direction to the southeast and joining a small reservoir on the north; the outlet soon crosses the path, and creeping by the skirts of a meadow, enters the Notch. The nest of mountains to the eastward here unfold their grandeur suddenly. The Notch or Gulf that is hero entered upon, extends for two miles, and is, strictly speaking, an immense sundering or parting of the stupendous barrier of rocks, caused, proimbly, by an earthquake or upheaving and wrenching motion, caused by the internal fires of the earth. For one quarter of a mile the crack or parting of the cliff's is narrow, not over 25 feet at first ; but from the rapid slope or fall of the road, as the valley parts before us in two miles, the first farm occuis, and on casting back a glance at the entrance of the Notch, the closing in of the vast walls on either side is an effect both 21 ii>iia>i» a iir«riii"iiiirfllih S4a WkiU Mountains. new and impreisive, ending in a rocky apex, acute and point- ed. The house kept bjr the late Mr. Crawford ii five miiei west of the Notch. Proceeding six miles, wo behold the magni(icont amphi- theatrical oval sweep of the mountain, 15 miled long^ and three wide, where the population of a world, almost, might be congregated and arranged, and command a full view of the vast arena beneath. The most impressive and striking portion of this grand T^iermopijlcR of America extends for five miles in a labyrinth- ine deGle, constantly opening and closing, with magical effects and rapid transformations, as we wend between these huge granite walls and double barriers of mountains of half to three quarters of a mile in height, with its pinnacles and CAstellated turrets soaring proudly above the lofty sierra, and diminishing a casual passenger to a minute size, like a fly on a side-wall in comparison, compelling man to shrink into in- significance before the overwhelmingpowerofnature^s works. The Saco, as it roars and tumbles along its rocky bed, bare- ly yields passage-way for carriages and vehicles without en- croaching on the mountain, and claims the narrow valley as its sole domain, and has already become a mill stream. Soon as the traveler scans the prospect and panorama that bursts upon him on entering and passing slowly up or down the glen, he is struck with amazement at beholding, among other wonders, the effects yet so startling in its mass of ruins of the looser parts of the mountains, brought down by the great slides or masses of earth and stones, in the night of August 2dth, 18*26. The most distant ages will have before them the deep furrows and scars then made by the oceans of water that for a few hours fell on thesie devoted mountains, and that now compose such an interesting and evident feature in their ap* pearance. These avalanches de te.rre tt de pierre are in stripes from the summit to the base, increasing in width and depth as they descend down to the bare and solid rock; a long drought had preceded this catastrophe, the earth was ex- ceedingly dry, and the rain being also accompanied by a very high wind, that twisted, and thrashed, and acted upon the trees with irresistible and |over«like mechanical force in loosening the roots and earth around them, no doubt caused this event and the loss of lif^ that ensued. I # White Mouniaim. UM The Tictims to this calamity have their most endurin|^ monuments and memorinla engraved on the face of tho mountainii, that allured them within its graKp but to destroy. One of the ilides measures three miles long and one quar- ter wide. It destroyed a bridge and filled a river, and yet presents a scene of ruin unparalleled. The declivities in the Notch have furrows, where acres of the surface, trees and earth, were carried down. No similar event had ever been noticed of that magnitude in this country before, although, upon examination since made, such places and efTccts in re* mote ages past, no doubt, have transpired. Two water-falls of indescribable beauty are seen on the toulh or right hand, within a half orthree quarters of a <)ile tfter entering the Notch ; the first is seen to leap forth 800 feet above your head, and at tAvo miles distance, and over a rock facing the sun, and sparkling, and foaming in it» beams. The second comes from a height of 250 feet, over three steps or precipices, and has worn a smooth square channel in the solid rock, like a race-way or trough of a mill, and at the bottom is received into an excavation or bowl in the solid rouk — here also the magical cfTecl of inoving water is exhi- bited in itM most fascinating forms. The gate to the palace of nature is passed and left behind ; the curtain is drawn aside, and we are surrounded by the majesty of the Creator's workM, and fts we proceed in our ex« aminHtionof the details, the effect becotncs more overpower- ing; the imagination, excited to a phrcnzy of enjoyment, gives loose to the fascinations and glories of the world around. We feel that we are in the presence of a superior being. Advancing slowly through this enchanted and solemn val- ley, wide and yawning chasms, and narrow and irregular paths of great length, attest the poiPier and infltience of the long'continued winter's cold, and the torrents of the dfssnlv'' ing snows and ice in spring, in wearing down the face of the mountain, with a retiistless and gigantic force rending asund- er rocks and hurrying them to valleys beneath. 'I'he vast clifTs, hoary with age and the tnoss of centuries, preside with frowning dignity over ihe desolate and deserted, yet most impressive scene. From the Notch the descent to the east is t^uite steep, hot to say even dangerous, and for 16 miles the S^cois a brawf- ing, tumbling cascade, and very rapid, having seven falls,' two of 40 feet high-^its whsle course may be 110 milet, Hi' ' ai"4 . f J? I 1^ Conway — Fryburgh^ Hiram Boston. Conway \a about 25 miles from the Notch, towards theAouth- eattt, on the road to the coast and Portland or Portsmouth, and occupies the first low ground or bottom that occurs on the Saco tit for agricultural purposes on a bend of the river. Fryburgh lies in a remarkable bend of the Saco, that en- compasses the township on the north and east for 20 miles; the town is about six miles north-east of Conway, and is on & sandy level. Hiram is 20 miles from Conway to the south-east, on the side of the Saco, and is formed of swells ; on a hill is a tine view of the White Mountains, 42 miles ; here the oaks begin to appear once more since leaving Bath on the Con- necticut. From Fryburc;h to Slandish, on the Saco, to the south-east of the Sebago Pond, is marsh, swells or hills, easy to culti- vate, or pine plains of stiff loam, cold, but capable of im- provement. Between Hiram and Standishare the cataracts of the Saco, hero a large stream, rushing^ over a rocky ledge 40 feet high, tumultuous and wild. Standish to Gorham, nine miles; Falmouth^ at the mouth df the Saco on the north, seven; thence across the riverto Portland, three miles. Gorham is a large township of farms, its surface formed into hills and dales, with a good soil. The Sebago Lake is about three miles north of Standish, and is 13 miles long and 9 broad ; its outlet forms the Pre- sumpscot River, that aft^r a short run of 12 n. es to the south-east, empties into Casco Bay, at its south-west side, near Portland ; there is also a short canal leading direct to the latter place. The Sebago waters abound in fish, such as trout. Portland is 123 miles north-east from Boston, and 61 from Portsmouth, &c. \ ' > ', it'.' ' • , "^1 •■ 1 I! * J Boston «' >^i Boston^ the commercial emporium of the New England States, and the third in population and wealth m the United States, is centrally placed on the eastorn border of the com- monwealth at the head of Massachusetts Bay, and admira- ■^'iu O. %N4^ ■if ^> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" ► 7] ."^ *: ^.-^^ ^<> > 'V O 7. / /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 V>^SST MA!M S iREET WEBSTEf. A' '. 14580 (716) 873-4503 i \ ^ mmm mon wealth at the head of Massachusetts Bay, and admira* ' , (" aa ^Un and ETwirom* U^ Uy feittmted for trade and inland commerce, being on a pe* ninsula, with a capacioug hiirbor and deep water, and welt protected from the aea, with a narrow entrance that in well fortified by the wortcs on Castle and Goverrior'a Islands, forta Indej^endence and Warren. There are 40 itlanda and rockjr islets included between the outer pronga of Nahant on thd north bnd Alderton on the south, the tw6 points that form the bulwarlia of the outer harbor ; and that, with Long, Deer^ and other islands, the Brewstera and Point Shirley, shield the inner harbor from the heavy swell and tides from the At* Untie, and foirm one of the safest naval arid maritime dep6ta Ota the (entire coast of North America. The city ia exhibited to the bet t advantage, either by coro^- il^g in froni siea, or on approachihg by one of itk noble bridg- es or grand avenues leading from the main, and that form nich a Biriking feature to all strangerl, more especially at night, when lighted tip by the numerous lamps that form long starry vistas on the waters, and indicate, at varioua an-' gleii and coikverging points, the great metropolis of the east, a Venice rising out of the deep ; the effect in the day ia also very imposing from the clustering of domes and steeples, and the masts of shipping, and the lofty outlines of the va- rious prominent ranges of buildings of a style that^ even at a distance of miieR, prepares the eye to ei\joy the excitement and gratification of the near approach. At Roxbury the traveler finds himi.3lf entering upon the main avenue to th^ city, amid asitncibtions gluwmg with the most intense historical interest, from the remains of revolu- tionary fiuld-works, and pursuing the route for a mile over the Neck, plunges into thecpntr«^of the city, that extends by the principal thoroughfares, WHahington-slreet and Hn- nover*8ireol, for two miles to VVinisinmol Ferry, nt the ex* treme north-east part of the city; such is the entrance in arriving from Providence and the souih-east parts of the Stale, or el:*e through South Boston. This old eniranre is 5397 feet in length, and at the narrowest part of the Neck it is only a few rods wide, and approaches uloae to I he water on the cast, but has been filled in, and extended on the west, to form several streets or blocks of ground. The IVes'ern Aoenue, lending from Sewell's Point, in Brook- line, to Beactm-atreet at the north side of Boston Common, andpa»t the State House, is a massive construction of stone tod earth, 1| miles long, and 60 to 100 feet wide and 13 high, 21* ^■P ■P"^ ^^^^^^m^ 24lEr hdaioH, and encloses dCO acres of flats, over which tbe tide formerTy flowed ; and a lateral or cross^dam leadkig to Roxbury di- vides this enclosure, and by flood and ebb- gates forms a re- ceiving bdsin, and gives great water- pfower. The cost of this substantial work was $700,000 ; the income only 6 to $7,000. West Bditon Bridge, connecting Cambridge Port and Bos- ton, has 180 piers, and is 6,190 feet long, including abutment and causeway, and 40 broad, and coat ^76,667— income, 13 to $15,000. This bridge will revert to the State in 40 years. Craffie's, or Canal bridge, ft-ont Lechmere Point to Boston, is 2,796 feet long and 40 wide, floored with earth ; a lateral bridge extends from this to Prison F^oint and Charlestown, and is 1,930 feet long and 35 wide— income, 3 to ^4,000; and this also will belong to the State in 40 years. Warren Bridge leads to Charlestown, and is 1,390 feet long and 44 wide— income, 16 to $20,000, and belongs to the State. Charles River Bridge, from Boston to Charlestown, is 1,603 feet long and 42 wide, and has 75 piers, and cost, ori-' ginally, $d0>(K)0, but the present owners, $300,000— all the flrst owners have vacated. This will belong to the State in 1856; the income is about 10 or $11,000. Bridge from Sea-street to South Boston is 500 feet long and 38 wide, and is free, and was built by land-owners in the neighborhood. South Boston, or the Neck Bridge, is 1,550 feet long and 40 wide, ai»d cost $50,000, and is now free and city property. Total, seven bridges; length, 23,669 feet; cost, over Ih mil- lions of dollars. There are also viaducts over the Charles lliver for the raiU road to Lowell, and also one for the rail-road to Worcester. There are ^too hundred docks and wharves surrounding the city; the most important are India Wharf, near Fort Hill, 980 feet long, 280 feet wide, with a splendid range of 39 stores^ four stories high, size 22 by 80 feet, built in 1805. Central Wharf, built in 1816, 1 ,379 feet long, 150 feet wide, with 54 stores, four stories high, and 23 by ^ feet ; an obser- vatory or signal-station on the snmmit, to telegraph the ship- ping and communicate with the outward station. From this elevation strangers can obtain a fine marine and city view that ought not to be omitted. Long Wharf, from the end of State-street, 1,800 feet lonf, *•>» t( Baaion, 247 i200 wide, 76 storei, with a well of goud water 90 feet deep. City Wharfs Mercantile, Lewis, Hancock's, Scarlet, Union, the Marine Railway, Battery, Holmes, Weed, Winnisimmet, Carney's. Commercial Wharf, 1,100 feet long, 160 wide; 34 granite stores, 25 by 60 feet ; cost $500,000, and in grandeur and convenience are unrivalled. The above are north of Indian Wharf; on the south is Foster's, Liverpool, Russia, Bull's, Francis', Wale's, Lloyd's, Amory'e, Davis', Baxter's, and Cobb's, near South Boston Bridge. The population of Boston is about 85,000, and if the towns within five or seven miles should be included, the ag- grcgate would be 120,000. The Indian name of this place was Shawmut, and that of the first English settlers Trimount, for its three hills ; the size of the peninsula was then estimated to embrace 700 acres ; it is now about 1,000, by filling in the low grounds and dock- ing; the hills having been reduced and graded, and adapted to the wants of a large city, yet leaving some elevations of 60to 110 feet. 4 Boston has been settled 209 years, and originally was dis- tinguished by three hills, one of which occupied the present site of the State House, and soared up to an acute point as high as the apex of the lantern above the dome of that build- ing, from which all strangers can behold the panorama of Boston and its environs at an elevation 210 feet above the harbor, that when once seen and studied, will not soon be forgotten ; it cannot be exceeded by any city in the Unite4 States. Many of the islands in the harbor are attractive, and 15 afford pasture, and are visited in summer by parties of plea- sure. The rivers that empty into this harbor are the Mystic, Charles, Neponset, Manaticant, and around its borders are Charlestown, Chelsea, Cambridge, Brookline, Brighton, Rox- bury, Dorchester, and Quincy : and the bays, coves, and in- lets that open into the interior, add much to the beauty and attraction of the environs. There are in Boston upwards of 200 streets, lanes, &c. besides courts and squares ; 28 banks, with a capital of $18,000,000; 27 Insurance Companies, with a capital of $7,600,000, and a Life Insurance Company, of $500,000. The bank charters in this State all expire in 1851 ; those of the InsuynyMHi Companies. «re optioBAl wjtl| tli9 Lpgisiflture. UB ^Miani Ther« are more than 50 pUcal of public worthi^, beaid^i Mission Chapels, Halls, Bethels, &.c. There are 12 larre Public Schools, including the Latin and English High-^ Schoolfi, opened to, and frequented equally by, the poor and rich, besides primary or minor, and Sabbath-schools. The school system of this State, and especially of this city, ii perfect, and 20,000 chilli ten of this city are kept at school at a yearly expense of $200,000. The true American spirit and feellnss of a predominaht population of native born cilizeiis is the characteristic of this city; end it is unrivalled ib its literary institutions and its richly ^endowed hospitals and asylums, that the munificence of its citizens has delighted to establish. In wealth, enterprise, pbblic spirit, and patriotism, ahd the enlightened intelligence Of the people, Boston has ev6r been preeminent. Of lis public buildings, FrinbuU Hall, or the Cradle of Li^ berty, in Dock Square, at the head of State-street, and front- ing on Washington-street, or Cornhillj deserves the first and most honorable mention, as where the great men of this cily« and statp and nation, havo made its walls resound with thrilling flashe^i of eloquence. It was presf>nted to Boston in 1742^ by Peter Faneuil, R^q and after various alterations, is now a plain brick edifice of 100 feet by 80, and three stories high, the lower part used tor stores; the hail for public meet- ings is 76 feet FqUare, and 36 feet high^ and has deep galle- ries on three sides, and paintings of patriots^ warriors, and statesmen, with an armory above. The Stale House is the most conspicuous edifice, and on the highest ground in the city, ffonting Beacon-street, and looking down upon the beautiful putdic square, mall, or com' nion, of 48| acres, with its noble elms, the growth of a cen- tury ; the strU'-turc is brick, and the style plain-^length 173 feet, breadth 61, with a paved court in front, and an area on the rear of the first finnr, where is seen €hantr>'s htatue of Washington. The dome of the State Houne is 53 feet in diameter and 230 feet above tide hwei, and of course looks down and lords it over the city, harbor, anti the country sur- rounding it; aA the ascent is arduous, so is the view most magnincent. The legislature of Massachusetts, a numerous ody of 500 or 600, meet in the halls of this edifice, thut also omtmses I h»? various official rooms* ^' - The Ciljf Halty formerly used af< the State House by the Colon street and r( ries h Th« in Coi ^^ BottOH. 249 Colonial and State governmentR, is on State and Waahington- streets, and occupied by the city government, post-office, and reading-room, is 110 feet long, 38 wide, and three sto- rieg high. The New Court Houses between Court and School-streets, in Court Square, is a noble building for the courts of law, record offices, k,c. and ie of Quincy granite, 176 feet long, 54 wide, and 67 hi^h, with two porticos, each of four fluted columns of 23 feet in length, and four feet five inches in diameter, and 25 tons weight. There are four court-rooms 50 feet by 40; the cost of the buildingt without the land, was $150,000. The Massachusetts Hospital la also of granite, and occupiet an area of four acres on Charles River, between Allen and Bridge-streets, in the west part of the city, and is 168 feet long and 54 broad, and is a monument of taste and benefi- cence ; the cost of the land and building was $144,500; the funds of the institution, including the donations of John M'Lean. Esq. and Miss Mary Belknap, is $120,000. About 45 sick on an average-^cost each $4 62 n week. There are two acting surgeons and three physicians. The Massachusetts Medical College^ connected with Har- vard, is a spacious edifice of brick, in Mason-street, near the Mall, and contains a medical library of 5,000 volumes. The McLean Jjsylum for the Insane is at Charlestown, and is a branch of the Massachusetts Hospital, and occupies a charming site of rising ground near East Cambridge, Ij^ miles from the City Hall, and has 15 acres of land for courts and gardens. The buildings (that cost $186,000) are larger and well adapted to aid in the cure and conduce to the com- fort of the inmates. The grounds are well laid out, and the walks gravelled ; and there are summer-houses, proves of ornamental trees, shrubbery^ and flowers ; a road lor riding, and a pond with gold and ailver fish, and every suitable pro- vision made to beguile the patients into a forgetfulness of thoir sorrows and melancholy situation. Such an institution is an honor to its founders and to human nature. The New England Institution for the Education of the Blind in Boston, is another philanthropic emanation of benevolence begun by the Hon. Thomas H. Perkins, who presented a va- luable and splendid building in Pearl-street, and the citizens of Boston, by one zealous impulse, consummated the gift by raising the requisite funds. Dr. S. G. Howe is the director 250 'Botion, E. Trencher!, teacher ; Lowell Mnion, profeiior of muiic. The expenieto pay-icholars ii $150 a yeariUere are 50 inmates. The Eye and Far In6rmary, by Drs. Jeffries and Reynolds, is also in good repute. The Houses of Industry , of Correction^ nnd for the Reformo' tion ofJuvenite Delinquents, are all In South Boston, on the margin of the harbor, nnd are stone buildings of '230 feet by 43, and make a conspicuous appearance from Boston. They occupy 60 acres of groUnd on the famous heights of Dor- chester, where field works were thro%Vn up by the American forces, that caused a speedy evacuation ot Boston by the British troops. The poor« old, and infirm, and those able to work, are here supported in the firht, and the convicts under eight years in the second house mentioned, the latter on the (ilan of seclu- ■iun. silente, ilnd single cells ; there are here about 3U0 con< fined, half of them foreigners; and of the paupers, (841,) 550 are natives. There are about 100 in the juvenile delin- quent department. The whole under overseers, with a super- intendent, physician, and chaplain to each house The Fanttiil HMl Market, that was planned ond completed under the mayoralty of Josiah Quincy, Esq. in 1826->>*27, at a cost of $150,000, excUisive of land, is 536 i'cet long and 50 wide, and is entirely of granite, with h portico at each end of four pillars, 23 feet high, and extends east from Faneuil Hall; the lower floor is the market for itieat, fi^h, arid vegetables; the second Story is occasionally occupied for large sales of dry goods arid American manufactures, and for ware- rooms. Over the centre of the building, frurti a base of 74 by 55 feet, springs a dome of fine jirbpdrtion. North Market-street 65 feet, and South Market-street 102 feet wide, are at the respective sided of this splendid edifice, and warehouses with uniform granite fronts line the street. There are other markets of smaller dintensibn in various parts of the city, kuch as the Boylston, corner of Washington and Boylstonstreets. Hotels,— The Tremont House is three storieA hieh, and 160 feet long, on Treniont-street ; and the wing Ori BeacoU'Street, four stories, and 84 feet long, 34 wide ; and the wing on the south, fronting an open square, is four storieU, and 1 10 by 40 feet, and there are 180 rooms-'-Hsost of the edifice, withoutthe land, $6S,000-^the diuing-hall is 70 by 31 feet, and 14 high. J ! ! t, Bottom. ttl Th« eonitruction i«of Quincy gmnite, with a portico of four fluted colurfht 25 feet bi^ii, endosinff a receii 37 feet by 7. This esta anhment occupies an airy, pleasant, and commodi- ous situation near the Mail and opposite to the Tromont Theatre, and has hitherto been extremely well kept, and filled with fashionable society and strangers. The American House in Hanover-street contains 125 rooms, and is well arranged in modern style, lighted with gss. The Shawmut House and Earls* CoflTee House, also in Hanover- street J the New England in Clinton-stroet, and the Exchange CofTee House, Congress Square ; the Pearl- street House, the La Fayette, and the Marlboro' Hotels, the latter being a temperance house in Washington street; the Franklin in North Marketstreet ; Commercial CoflTee House, Broad-street; City Tavern, Brattle- street; Blackstone House in " National House, Elm-street Hotel ; Mansion House, Milk-street; Eastern Stage House, Ann- street; one in Hownrd*street ; and the Albion and the Shaw- rout ; the two latter arc on the European plan. The Maverick House, East Boston ; the Mount Washing- ton House, South Boston. The American Traveler and Stage Register, published at 47 Court-street, will be useful to possess, as it notices the vari- ous rail-roads, stages, and steam and canal* boats. A Steam-boat for Portsmouth starts Mondays, Wednet- days and Fridays, at seven in the morning, and for Hing- ham, daily from Foster's wharf, at nine A. M. and five P. M. and for Bangor and Portland, from Lewis' wharf, Saturdays and Thursdays, at five P. M. and one from Foster's wharf, Mondays and Fridays, at five P. M. and one for Nahant, daily, at nine. The slagee for the interior, depart from Nos. 34 to 41 Hanover-street; and from the City Tavern, Brattle-street, and 11 Elm>street; those places being the head-quarters and old established stage-houses, where every requisite informa- tion can be obtained. The Middlesex Canal may be viewed by taking a passage in a canal boat on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at eight A. M. or from No. 9 Elm-street, in a stage that takes passengers to the canal basin. The canal extends through Charlestown to Medford, 6 Woburn, 10 Wilmington, 14 to Lowell, at tjielocki «nd. on the Merrimack River; total, 69 2S2 Botton. ( I milei. It CMl $828,000, h 30 feet wide at top, 20 at bottom, and four feet deep; the tummit level being Wi feet above tide water, and 32 feet above the Merrimack. It was in- corporated in 1789, and finished in 1808, and was the first made in the United States, and for several years lay dor- mant, but of late has been more used. The locks are 12 feet by 80. The Post-Office is on the first floor of the west end of the City Hall, on Washington-street and State-street — 33 mail stages arrive and depart daily. The office is open from seven A. M. to eight P. M. and from five to six P. M. on Sundays. The income is $78,000 to $90,000 per year. The public debt of tlie city is $1,147,399 — the receipts per year, $1,316,624 — expenditures, $1,316,290— income for rents $44,000. The city owns 7,000,000 square feet of land on the neck and basin, and also the various public squares — the Mall or Common, and other lands of great value, and much ea- ceeding the city debt. The Mall or Common, that is justly the pride of the citizeni, has ever been preserved inviolate for the enjoyment and health of the city, for parades of the militia, and as a prome- nade, and has a sheet of water near a remarkably fine old eim tree, coeval with the beginning of the last century. This park or common has been recently enclosed by an iron railing; at a cost of $35,000 — there are 48| acres. The Boston Jithenmm, in Pearl-street, has a library of 40,000 volumes, and a rich cabinet of coins, medals, relict), &.C. an extensive reading-room, replete with all the periodi- cals and best newspapers of this country and of Europe*^- open from eight A. M. to nine P. M. to subscribers, and to visiters that they introduce. Connected with the above is a suite of rooms for lectures, the Academy of Science, &c. the Massachusetts Medical Library, and a large gallery for the exhibition of paintings. The Massachusetts Historical Society have published a series - of very interesting volumes, and have their library of 3,000 volumes at the room in Franklin-street. There are several valuable libraries in the city, the Boston Library Society of 10,000 volumes; and the Columbian, of 5,000; Law Library, 2,000; Mercantile, 3,000; Apprentices, 3,000; Theological, 2,500; American Academy of Arts, &c 2,000. There are three valuable museums. yk A mpply ofpwre water is brought into the city froip ponds V: -'r A A Bo9ton> io Framingham and Natick, that cover 885 acref, icon retonroir in Roxbury, two and three quarter miles distant from the city hall, and 110 feet above lUe marsh Irvei. The shipping belonging to this port, 200,000 toni; the foreign arrivals, 1,S0. tiO.OOO hogsheads of molanses yoacly imported, and also 60,000 baien of cotton received, of 300 to 400 poi/nds each, and 4riO,0^tO barrels of flour, and one and a half million of bushels of grain. Aline of four new and splendid steam-shipSf of 1,250 tons esch, and 460 horse power, 200 feet long and 34 wide, will be established in ^840 by Mr.Cuuard.to rim scrni*montlily from Liverpooi to Boiton^ vi?. Halifax, with snraS) r boats to keep . up a communication between Pictou and Q,uet)oc. The East Boston Company haw provided berths or wharves gratis, near the dep6t of the £afltern Kail-road, on ?^oddlefl Island. - There are several large glass manufactories, brass a^^d iron < founderies, rope«walk8, and of hats, candles, paper hanging, 1 and soap. The immensely valuable manufactories at Lowel (sec page 266) are principally owned in Boston. In some parts of the city, the streets are narrow, crooked, sad irregular, and thtire are many hou£e» of wood that have been spared by the numerous fires, that have desolated parts of the town in 1711. 1760, 20lh of March, when 350 dwell-' ings, shops, &.c. were burnt in the centre of the town, Comhill, State, and Congress- streets to Fort Hill — amount of damage, £100,000 sterlmg ; 1787,200 buildings, tevcn rope walks- loss, $200,000 ; 1818, 3d November, the Exchange Coffee House, seven stories high, with 2iO rooms — cost half a million of dollars; 1824, April 7tb, 53 large warehoui^es in Doane«»> street, and 7ili July, 15 costly dwellings on Beacon, Charles, and Chesnut-streets ; 1825, 20 stores and shops, and 35 law- jer'& offices on Court-street; in 18S3, 71 fires occurred ; and in 18S9, in January, was a large £re in Hanover-street. The fire department at piesent is very efficient, and hnis 25 engines, 20,000 feet of hoae, with hooks, ladders, carriages, buckets, and an active body of 15 engineers, and 1,500 firs- men, i ^ The modern buildings, stores, &:c. are all of brick or gran« ite, and vastly improved as to the style of architecture, mate- rials, &C. Streets have^ been widened, and old houses sup- 22 ■ ■ .' ^ >- ■\ >'-i 264 Bo$ton. planted by thousaiids within a few past years, and things have by no means been quiescent or in repose, but constantly going ahead ; and the present remarlnible epoch in raiUroad construction is, no doubt, destined to give to Boston that im- petus to its trade and prosperity that the inhabitants little imagine, and will cause every toot of land above and bepeath a moderate depth of water to be usefully occupied. Besides the expensive public buildings that have been enumerated, some of the banking edifices are of very chaste and elegant architecture, such as the SufTolk, the Washinj^- ton, and the late United States Bank ; and the same may be said of a few of the churches, and of hundreds of piivsto dwellings, many of which are spacious and princely. The Boston Academy of Music, and a religions assembly, called the Franklin*8treet Church, now occupy the old Bo8> ton theatre on Federal and Franklin-streets, that was erected in 1798, on the ruins of the former, that had been destroyed by fire the same year. The present edifice is of brick, 61 feet wide, 152 long and 40 high, and is now well appropriated in the same way as the Chatham Chapel in New-York. The Tremont Theatre is of granite, fronting on Tremont" street, 79 feet, and 136 feet in depth, and is neat and orna- mented, and receives a tolerable support. Churches. — The Congregational Church in Chauncey Place, out of Summer-street, has at this time for its pastor, N. L- Frothingham, the 16th in descent since the first house of worship was built in 1630, corner of State and Devonshire- streets, and John Cotton, and .Tohn Davenport, and Dr. Charles Chauncey, were some of its distinguished ministers. A stated lecture has been preached at this church on Thurs- day, since 1633, by the clergy of Boston and vicinity, when all intended marriages in this city are given out and ttic banns declared. The Second Church'on Hanover-street is the oldest meet- ing-house now standing in the city. The old North Church was in North Square, and was bnilt in 1649; burnt, 1676; rebuilt, 1677; and was destroyed by the enemy in 1776, after it had existed nearly a century, and had for its pastors the celebrated Mathers, Increase and Cot- ton, Dr. Samuel Mather, and Dr. John Lathrop, and others. The old South Church in Washington, corner of Milk- atreets, is 88 by 61 feet, and being central and having two tiers of galleries, is used on public occasions where largu Botton. !^ audiences ftrd eipected. It was built in 1730, and in 1770 Warren here delivercii, in defiance of threats and the pret- ence of foreign mercenaries, his memorable address on the anniversary ofthe massacre of the 6th March. The present ftastor, S. H. Stearns, in the I2th in descent since the estab- ishment of the original church at Charlestown in 1669. Among the distinguished clergy of former days, here was Fletcher, Willard, Pemberton, Dr. Joshua Sewall, from 1713 to 1769 — and the celebrated Thomas Prince, the historian of New England, who died in 1758 — Dr. Joseph Eckley, Joshua Huntington, and Dr. B. VVisncr, the lamented Secre- tary ofthe American Baptist Foreign Mission. First Baptist Church, corner of Hanover and Union-streets, first constituted ot Charlestown 1665; the present edifice erected in 1828-9. Second Baptist Church is in Baldwin Place. Third Baptist Church, Charles-street. Freewill Baptist Church, Sea-street. South Baptist Church in South Boston. ■< .Federal-street Baptist Ciuirch. First Methodist Episcopal Church, North Bennett-street. Second Methodist Episcopal Church, Bronfield- street. Third Methodist Episcopal church, Church-street. First Universalist Church, corner Hanover and Bennett- streets. V Second Universalist Church, School-street. Central Universalist Church, Bullfinch-street. Fourth Universalist Church, South Boston. Episcopal Churches. — The King's Chapel, (Unitarian,) cor- ner of Tremont ami School-streets, a substantial stbne'edifice, was erected 1754, on the site ofthe original structure. The present rector is F. W. P. Greenwood. Christ Church, in Sa- lem street, near Copp's Hill, has a peal of eight bells, with an inscription, *' We are the first ring of bells cast for the British Empire in North America, A. R. 1744." '* God preserve the church of England." "Gloucester; Abel Rudhall cast us all, 1744." During the battle on CharlcvStown heights, a smart cannon- ade v/as kept up from Copp's Hill on the Americans ; a car- cass was thrown that set fire to an old wooden house, near the ferry on the opposite side, and it being all fired in other place« by order ofthe British officers, the town was speedily wrapped in flames. 356 ,^.Bo$ton, ^ Trinity Church, Summer-street, is of unhewn granite, and one of the most elegant churches in the city. Among its former rectors have been Dr. Parker, from 1774 to 1804 ; George W. Doane, the present Bishop of New Jersey; and Dr. Wainwright, novr of Trinity Church, New- York. St. Paul's Church, Tremont-street ; former rectors. Dr. S. F. Jarvis, Alonzo Potter; John S. Stone, present minister. . St. Matthew's Church, South Boston. Grace Church, Temple-street; Zacharinh Mead, rector. Brattle-street Church, (Unitarian,) S. K. Loihrop, present minister. The former ones, Dr. Benjamin Coleman, 1699 to 1747; Wm. Cooper, Samuel Cooper, Peter Thatcher, Joseph S. Buckminster, Edward Everett, John G. Palfrey. New North Church, (Unitarian,) corner of Hanover and Clark-streets. Dr. Francis Parkman, minister. Former clergy, J. Webb, P. Thatcher, Dr. Andrew Elliott, from 1742 to 1772; Dr. John Elliott, 1779 to 1813. New South Church, (Unitarian) on Church 'Green, at the union of Bedford with Summer-street. Alexander Young, present minister. Former ones, Samuel Checkiey, 1719 to 1769 ; P Bower, J. Howe, O. Everett, Dr. John T. Kirk- land. 1794 to 1810; S. C. Thacher, 1811 tol8— , P. W.P. Greenwood, now at Kind's Chapel. Hollis-street Church (Unitarian.) John Pierpont, present minister. Former ones. Dr. Mather Byles, 1732 to 1777; Dr. Samuel West, 1789 to 1808 ; Horace Holly, late President of Transylvania University in Kentucky. Federal-street Church, (Unitarian,) formed by Irish Presby- terians in 1727, and adopted the Congregational order in 1786, and in 1788 the Federal constitution was adopted in the old church built in 1744, on the site of which the present ediUce was erected, 180d. The pastors have been, in succession, John Morehead, Robert Annan, Jeremy Belknap, J. S. Pop- kin, Dr. Wm. E. Channing, and Ezra S. Gannett. VVe»t-8treet Church, in Lynde, near Cambridge-street. Pastors in succession since 1737, Wm. Hooper, Jonathan Mahew, D. D. Dr. Simeon Howard, 1767 to 1804, and Dr. Charles Lowell. The Park-street Church, (Congregational,) corner of Tre- mont-street, was built in 1809-10. Its steeple is 218 feet high. Dr. Edward D. Griffin, S. £. Dwight, and Edward Beecher, have been the former pastors. Joel 11. Linsley is the present minister. Botton. 8treet Church. George Ripley. Pine street Church. Artemas Boies. Salem-street Church. George Blagden. South Congregational Church, Washington. Mellish J. Motte. Hawes Place Church, South Boston. Lemuel Caper. ■ Franklin>street Church. Church of the Holy Cross, (Roman Catholic,) Franklin- itreet. Church of the Holy Cross, (Roman Catholic,) Pond street. St. Augustine's Church, (Roman Catholic,) South Boston. Friends' Meeting, Milton Place, Federal-street. African Baptist Church, Belknap-street. African Methodist Chapel, May-street. New Jerusalem Church, Trcmont-street. Thomas Wor* cester. ^ First Mariners' Church, Purchase-street. D. M. Lord, minister. Second Mariners* Church, North Square. Edward D. Taylor, minister. Masonic Lodge, or Temple. The Medical College in Mason-street near the Common is a branch of (ho Harvard University. South Boston occupies an area of ground of several hun- dred acres, bounded south by Dorchester Bay, and north by the bay that separates it from old Boston ; and from its gene- ral elevation there is a line view of the city and harbor. Two bridges extend across the bay and unite it to the main city. The improved manner of laying out the streets and squarea makes this a very desirable residence. East Boston, or Noddle's Island, has about 660 acres of land, besides flats, and is 1,980 feet north-east from the city, and the same from Chelsea, with a bridge spanning this arm of the hsrbor, and a ferry to connect it with Boston, requiring but five minutes to pass. The new rail-road to Salem crosses this island, and here is the dep6t. This if likely to be wanted, from its vicinity to Bofton for 22* ' &5S Mounf Auburn Cemftery-^ Cambridge. cheap private refidences, with the advantage of gardens, and ample space for mechanical operationi. And here U the East Boiton Timber Company, and the Sugar Refinery, Merchant's Marine Rail-way, and the Boyden Maleable Iron and Sleei Works, and the Maverick Hotel, a spacious building; also the large steam-packets for Liverpool. The population is 1,700. Mount ^iuburn Cemeterj/. This lovely, cheerful, and sacred enclosure, so well chosen and tastefully arranged to receive its silent tenants, and to prepare and adraoninh the living visit- er, is in the towns of Cambridge and Watertown, about three miles from Boston, and one west of the University, and 125 feet above Charles River that winds near its base, and ii easily approached by the road or river. > , The grounds comprise 100 acres that are under the charge of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, and, as if design- ed happily for this exact purpose, we here find hill and dale, streams and meadows, ponds for aquatic plants, the reroaini of the ancient forest, tho lofty oak, the beech, the rustling pine, and trees and shrubs of almost all descriptions that grow in this vicinity; we also find the lofty hill crowned with forests ; the sheltered valley ; the abrupt declivity ; the deep glen; the grassy glade ; and the silent grove: — and what nature has so admirably prepared, the art and skill of man has been liberally bestowed to polish and improve, by winding jabyrintiiian walks, thick shrubberies, and emblematic flow- ers to shield the fresh upturned earth and new-made grave. Consummate ability and taste is evinced in all the masterly arrangements. Plots of ground of 300 square feet, at suitable distances along the winding passages, are sold by the Society at $66 each as family burial-places, with the perpetual ri^ht to pur- chasers of enclosing, decorating, and using them for that pur- pose. The cemetery was entered upon and dedicated in 1831, and attracts, to behold its romantic and graceful charms, thou- Bunds of admiring and contemplative travelers. Cambridge contains the University of Harvard, is three miles from West Boston bridge that divides Cambridge from BoKton, or rather connectr. them, and has eight churches and 5,000 inhabitants. Canjkbriftge Port is quite a bustling, condensed, and pros- perous village, midway between the, college and the bridge. m East Cambridge is also a thriving place of more recent f rowth^ and bas hf county coucti and buildings, and ii united ^■It*.--- f^ Harvard CoUege—CharleUown. ^im to the capital by the canal bridge and the viaduct of the Low- ell Railroad over Charles River. The Cambndffo Bank and the Charles River Bank have each a capital of $KK),000, and the Middlesex Bank of East Cambridge one of $150,000, and an Insurance Company of $100,000, with various and exten- sive manufactories, and one of crown glass of unrivalled quality. Harvard College^ founded in 1636 and incorporated in 1638, receives its name from lis earliest benefactor, the Rev. John Harvard, who gave it a legacy of £779 17s. 2d. sterling. It has since enjoyed many lar^^e donationn, and the constant protection and munificence of the State — its funds exceeding half a million of dollars. The number of nhimni, or graduates, exceeds 5,000, and its students 396, viz. divinity, 19; law, 78; medicine, 82; under graduates, 217: its library, 42,000 vo- lumes, is rare, valuable, and complete in the American historic cal department. There is a botanical garden of seven acres, and a professor, {late Nuttal,) and a very valuable philoso- phical apparatus, chemical laboratory, anatomical museum, and cabinet of mineralsi. The i^tnnual commencement is on the last Wednesday in August, when crowds of fashion and beauty throng the assemiilage. The president is the Hon. Josiah Quincy, LL. D. There is a corporation and a board of overseers, and a host of distinguished professors ; viz. on divinity, law, and medicine, in all branches; of Greek, Hebrew, Spanish, and French, Italian, German, and Portu- guese languages; of mathematics, natural philc?;ophy, rhcto* ric, and oratory, and belles lettres ; of chemistry and miner- alogy ; of intellectual, natural, and moral philosophy. The medical lectures commence in Boston in November, by Dr. J. C.Warren and Dr. James Jackson, nnd at the college between April and July. The thenlo|>ical department is un- der Professors Ware, senior and junior, and Professor Palfrey. The Hon. Joseph Story, of the United States Supreme Court, is the prore.«8orof law, and S. Greenleaf, coadjutor. There are six large halls, of brick, four stories high, a new stune chapel, the president's house, and three others of wood for students, that are situated on and around a spacious pub- lic square, or green, amid academic groves, with an air and aspect of «ieclusion and repose. CkarUs/otcn is on a peninsula extending from north-west to loutlveast for several miles, bounded by Charles River on the south-west and Mystic on the north-east, with a narrow J I 960 Stale PHton^Nuey Yitrd^Dry Dock. iithniui uniting it to the mnin, and two hridgea to Boiton, and on« to Chei«en nnd Maiden over tlio Myitic River. It hai three hank* of n capital of $150,000 eacli, and a populMlion of 9,000; five chnrcheii, a town hnll and market-house, n large almK-honse, the Mnioachuiietts State Priiion, and the Hoipltal for the Insane on Ploaiant Hill, (see page 249) the ruins of tho convent Hhamefully doilroyed by a mob in the ni|^ht, on Mount Benedict. The United Staten Navy Yard tnd Dry Dock, and Bunker's Hill and tho monument, arc a(l comprised within iho precincts of this town, and immortalised in history. Tho Stait Prison yard is 500 feet by 400,at the west end of the town, on a point of land, and enclnsen, by a lofty woll, the pris- on, that is built of jzranito, 200 feet by 44, and nve stories high, with single ckIIm, on tho modern Auburn plan of rigid silence, hard labor, and solitary cells. 300 convicts are in the walls. The United Slates STavy Fan/ has 60 ocres within a high wall of stono or brick, and contains three large (thip^houses, with two 74*8, and a frigate of 44 ready for the launch ; ware- houses, oHicers* quarters, and garden, a rope-wnlU, marine barracks, and f^uard-house, and an immense amount of naval •tores and timber, live oak, &ic. The Dry Dock is 341 feet lon^*, 80 wide and 30 deep, and it constructed of hewn granite, of exact and elegant masonry, resting on piles driven three feel apart from centre to centre, on which is laid a massive floor of onk planks. Owing to some defect, when nearly completed, a rupture took place in the wall, and h thundering rush of water came in and filled tho excavation, but it was soon pumped out and efficiently repaired. Tho cost whs $670,000. The Ohio, Constitu- tion, and the Delaware have entered and been coppered and repaired. The Naval Hospital and Magazine aro at Chelsea, three milPv^ north-east of Boston, at the mouth of the Mystic River; and Winisimmot Landing, ferry, or village, that has flared up recently into some importance from its vicinity to the Chel- sea beach, a frequented .ind popular bathing-place in summer. Fifty years after the battle of Bunker Hill, (that took place oxx 17th June, 1775,) General Lafayette being then in this country was invited to assist in the solemn ceremony of lay- ing the foundatioO'Stone of an obelisk to commemorate that event ; and the old surviving soldiers of that day were on the spot to add all possible interest to the event. Daniel Web- Dunktr'B iJill'-Excurgion to Nahant^ SfC. -ftii Iter on that occaiion mnde one of thoso attoniihing diiplays of eloquence for which he in lo famouf. The hill ovorlookhig Charleitown, Boston, and a vaet ex- tent of marine and land scenery, is 62 feet ahove tide water. The foundation of the haee or Rubflructure is a square of 60 feet, and 20 below the ■urfaen, whore it is 30 feet square, Hnd i« to rise 220 feet to an apex of 15 feet square ; its total elevation above the harbor, 282 feet, with a winding siair- caio in the interior. The structure is of the blue Quincy granite, anu some of the masses are 1 1 feet Ion);, and two feet eight inches deep, and 15 tons weight; cost $100,000. The traveler, if desirous of tracing the scanty remains of the military works thrown up by the American forces while the enemy held possession of the town, can bepin at Roxbury and go round to Dorchester and Nook Hill, near South Bos- ton Bridge, or to the fort at Brookline or Sewell's Point, that commanded the entrance to Charles River, also a furt with three guns, on the north shore of the same above the m^rsh ; hut the works in the best preservation are those on Butler's Hill, Cambridge, and Prospect Hill, and Ten Hill Farm, com- manding the Mystic River. The works on Winter Hill, that were very extensive, are nearly destroyed. 1 he fort at Lech- roere Point, and the causeway in the marsh, and covered way on the hill, and lines on Willis' Creek, may readily be traced. Bunker's Hill, on the summit and face toward the north, yet retains the impreen of tiie enemy's strong and extensive mi- litary works ; but at Breed's Hill, where the bloody struggle took place, misnamed the Battle of Buriker's Hiil, all traces of the hasty works thrown up in the night before the 17th June, by the American militia, are obliterated, but a monu- ment indicates the spot where Warren fell; also some re- mainsof the British works on Boston Neck may be discovered. Excursion to Nahant ilirough liynn. This may be effected by taking the eastern or Salem rail- road, at East Boston, as far as Lynn, and thence walking or riding n distance of three miles along the hard, sandy, and pebbly beach, in full view of the open sea, and with a chance of a sight at the sea serpent, that has an attachment to these shores. la thf warmfeaion a stean^-bp;^ pfieis tbf rfadiest coa- Exeurtion to Nahant, Yeyance, ns one plies daily, starting from Boston at D A. M. and returning in a few hours, to give visiters time to exarnino the island and dine at the capital hotel. The pp. ninnula is divided into Great and Little Nahant, and Bass Neck. On Great Nahant, the east and largest division, con- taining 306 acres of land under cultivation, there are several dwellings, and tho hotel, an edifice of 120 rooms, with a piazza on each floor, and a promenade that commaudi the most enchanting aud boundless coast view. During the sultry heats of June, July, and August, crowdi of the wealthy and fashionable resort hither to enjoy cool and refreshing breezes, and commune with the magnificence of nature. The rocky peninsula projects boldly out into the Atlantic aevral miles beyond the general line of the coast, and its ' aho^ J8 arc a barrier to the fury of the an^ry and majestic waves that exhaust their force upon this iron-bound head- £and ; and after a long prevalence of easterly winds and storms, the succession of foaming and dashing waves that impinge and burst against the precipitous, rud(% and craggy rocks, 40 to 60 leet high, and completely drowning them in a milk-white foam, and with its roaring and heavy thunder- ing crash, shaking the very foundations of the deep-toothed rock, is a sublime spectacle. On the south 8ide of the Great Nahant is the dark cave or grotto, called the Swallow^a House, 10 feet wide, 5 feet high, and 70 long, that increases in size, in a few steps, to 14 leet in breadth and 18 or 20 in height. At low tide, at the east 'end, in the holes among the rocks, is found the animal flower or rose-fish, adhering to small stones in water four or five feet deep. On the north shore of the peninsula is a chasm 20 or 30 feet in depth, called the Spouting Horn, into which, at about half tide, the water rushes with great violence and noise, and forces a jet of water through an aperture in the rock to a considerable height In the art*, to the surprise end confusion of novices and those uninitiated in tho mysteries of old Neptune. Billiard-rooms, and baths, both warm ano floating, and bowling-alleys ; bathing in the surf, and rifling along the beach, may all be enjoyed in perfection; ard also fishing, sailing, and a variety of amusements. The Nahant Hotel, open for the reception o^ boarders and transient visiters, is situated at the extremity of the peninsu- -•*"/ Salem— Marblehead — Beverly. 369 la, extending three miles into the ocean south from Lynn, and ii distant from Boston 12 miles by water and 14 miles by land. The superior advantages of this watering-place are too < well known to require a particular description. Suffice it to MV) that for pure and bracing air, commanding; and beauti- fuf prospect, good bathing and excellent fishing- grounds, it has not its superior in the Union. A good steam-bont is cm- ployed to run between Boston and Nahont, leaving each place twice every day, and omnibus coaches intersect the Nalem rail-road from Boston, at Lynn, four times every day, for the conveyance of passengers over the beach to and from Nahant. The passage, cither by land or water, is made in one hour. A short distance from the hotel are private boarding- hounes and rustic cottages to please those seeking more re- tirement than a large public house, or that intend a continued residence. The beach, on the north-east side, at low water, is firm as adamant, and yields to no course in the world for it ride. Salem, Marhlehcad, and Beverly may all be vif^ited with gratification, especially the first and lasf, but the other being A little distance out of the rond, may be omitted. It is re- markable as a port owning 100 fishing, coasting, and mer- chant vessels; tonnage 7,200; population 5,150. Ith.istwo banks, with a capital of $120,000 and $100,000, but its best banks and main dependence are the fishing banks and the iiardihood and intrepidity of its marine population. Tho buildings are antiquated, unpainted, and time-worn. The harbor is easy of access and commodious. Salem is 14 miles north-east of Boston, on a considerable bay or indentation of the coast 20 miles southwest of Cape Ann, and is a safe harbor, and has 12 feet dratit of water at the wharves; 30,000 tons of shipping, eight banks, capital 11,850,000, and insurance of $950,000, and n population of 15,000, imbued with a chivalric and enterprising spirit of commerce and sober and industrious habits, that in past years has raised the people to a high state of wealth, and rivalry even with the metropolis. Nathaniel Bo wd itch, the eminent astronomer and mathe- matician, was born in this town, in March, 1773, and resided hpre until 1823, when he was invited to Boston as actuary of the Massachusetts Life Insurance Company, and there spent the last fifteen years of his life, and died iu 1838, hav- I- Iff mi : mil mi 264 LjfnH'-Aiubver and Haverhill RaU-road. ing liTod to witnMs tho neiir completion of hit translation or La Place'a Mecanique Celeste. The Emt India Marine So- ciety, and tlieir curiouf and valujable mu«ucm in this placf, the result of the combined eflorta of raercantile and sea- faring men, voyagers, and captaina, is well worthy of exami- nation, and is open free of expense. There is an Atheneuin, a Court House, an Asylum for Orphans, and 13 churches. The public square is pleasant; has many elegant residence! fronting it. Beverly lies north of Salem, and is united to it by a bridge of 1,600 feet in length, built in 1788 over the north bay; it has 60 sail of fishermen and 20 coasters; large manufactu- ries of shoes and cabinet ware, a rope walk, and two hairfac- tories,and a bank with a capital of $100,000. Population 4,000. Danvers, two miles north-west of Salem, has a population of 4,228; its 32 tanneries, and the manufacture of shoes and leather is computed at $760,000. It has a rolling and slitting mill, 14 nail machines, a foundery, and considerable water power ; bricks and pottery ware are also made here ; granite is quarried. Two banks, the Danver's and Warren, with capitals of $150,000 and ji>120,000 respectively, and insur- ance capital of $100,000. Lynny nine miles north-east of Boston, on the road to Nahant and Salem, is a thrifty town of 6,500 inhabitanta, who have made themselves wealthy and famous by their persevering industry in the manufacturing of shoes, that appears to engross the population more exclusively than any other branch of business, if a traveler can judge by the snug workshops that abound. Tho road to Nahant leads out to the east opposite the Lynn Hotel. The Lynn and the Na- hant Bank at this place, have each a capital of $160,000, and two Insurance Companies $150,000. There are several neat churches. The Andover and Haverhill Rail-road branches at the 15 mile post out north-east from the Boston and Lowell Rail- road in Wilmington, 7i miles to Andorer, thence \o Bradford on the south bank of the Merrimnc River; five miles thence it crosses the Merrimac by a new and handsome bridge and viaduct of several hundred feet in length, to Haverhill on the north shore. Thence it is continued north to Exeter^ in New Hamp«hire, and to Dover; thence to Portland, with a branch to Portsmouth. The cost of construction to Haverhill, and thence to the t. EMCurtioH frmn Bottom U /«»•/& Vlt.^ Itt MatMchutetU lin«, was $376,641. Receipt! in on€ ytar for ptMengeri, $42,963— for frei^ilit, $12,664, and from other Murcev, $1,780. Total, $57,396. Merrimae River ii navigable for veaaets of 200 tons to Ha- verhill, and for boats to Concord, Mew Hampshire, by the Bow Canal, near Concord; the Hooktett Canal, six miles lower; Amoskeag Canal, eight milca; Union Canal, south of the preceding; a canal round Cromwell's Falls, near the mouth of Sauhegan River, and the Wicasseo Cunal, 15 miles below, and three miles from the entrance of the Middlesex Canal, and the grent manufacturing town of LoweU. The Merrimae River originates in the most lofty part of the White Mountains in New Humpwhire, in ponds near the Franconia Notch, and in the extensive lakes and reservoirs of Winnipiseogee, Squnra, &c., and has its course of 150 miles entirely in New Hampshire and Massachusetts, passing by the towns of Plymouth, Concord, and minor towns in New Hampshire, and Chelmsford, Lowtllf Haverhill^ Bradford) Amesbury, Salisbury, and at Newburypori in Massachusetts, where it terminates in the broad Atlantic. It is onn of the inost important streams in the Eastern States for its falls ; it runs through a granite region, and in many places has worn a deep rocky dell in the solid rock. :i 1 Excursions from Boston to liowell^ 9i milesy and on to Goncordy Centre Har- bor, and Conway. Y< ''■ The rail-road from Boston to Lowell crosses the Charles River to Charlestown on a viaduct on the west of the Warren bridge, and thence proceeds in a north-westerly direction 25 miles to the Nourishing town of Lowell, on the Merrimack River, through Medford, Woburn, and Tewksbury, on a pa-^ rallel not far distant from the Middlesex Canal ; *he country passed over is uneven, but the average of inclination does *Rait-roiid, — Boston to Worcester, 45 miles, fare $1 50. Boston to LoweU, 25 niiieB,$l. Boston to Andover and Haverhill, 88 cents. Steam- boaU — Boston to Ban^i^or, Maine, $7. Boston to Uallowell, $4, Boatoa t« Portland, $1. Boston to Nahant, 25 cenU. 23 •la, ii j ^ -I" *• 1 366 Boiton and Lowell Rail-road — Manufaitoriet. not vary over 10 feet in a mile, lo well ii the gr»de preierred. There are two tracks, and Mtone and iron are the basli of construction. This is or.e of the bett, though not the most costly, roads in the United States, the expense having been $1,675,663. A branch to i4ndoe«r, of seven and a hairmilos, leads out to the north east from Wilmington. (For Andover and the Theological Seminary, see page 274.) Primary rocks of granite, gneiss, mica slate, &.c. are pre- valent and in place, and in boulders, in 10 or 15 miles. Gran- ite is prepared by hewing and shaping in large quantities in the vicinity of Lowell, and nt various places on the Merrimac Bivor, for diKtant markeis, New-York, &c. The boulders, that in some places cover the surface, are split for building purposes. The most expensive and singular feature of this work, is the deep rock cut near the entrance into the city, of one fourth of a mile long, and in some parts thirty to forty feet deep, of mica slate, in nearly perpendicular strata, with injected veint of trap, distorted or broken off; and to the geologist the idea is at once suggested that this must have been caused hy the action of intense heat and fire from below acting upwards on masses in a state of fusion. Boston and Lowell Rail-road. Receipts for one year for passengers between Boston and Lowell, $94,569. For freight between Boston and Lowell, $76,236. For passengers for Andover and Haverhill, $14,514. For freight for Andover and Haverhill, $3,482. For passengers on Nashua and Low- ell road, $1,976. For mail, Boston to Lowell, $1,000. To- tal receipts, $191,777. Dividend in one year, $90,000, or near six per cent. The company have also land for sale that cost $48,635 ; and cash on hand, $23,339 ; besides notes and debts due them to the amount of $36,511. The population of Lowell at the present time is estimated at 20,000, linti rely dependent on the vast manufacturing industry that is here exhibited in its Iwentj/'fiveltirge brick and stone edifices^ each being over 150 feet long and 6 stories hi&fh; total number of spindles, about 100,000; and of looms, 4,000; and of operatives, 4,000 females and 1,600 males; using up over 20,000 bales of cotton in a year, making sixty-three millions of yards of cotton goods ! besides wool, 60,000 yards, and as many pounds made into carpets of all kinds, rugs, &.C. and as much also made into cassimeres and other cloths. ■■■•.'■' "?■•;•■-■ ■ ■"• -'^fmfit*! -x^Tv^ii' ■• Manufaetoriet — Merrimae River. *9 The ftmount of capital required to carry on theio gigan« tic operations it nearly ten niillioni of dollarn. ' The inexhaustible reiourcci ami fallit of 33 feet in the Mtrrimac River, give the water power at this place, by a canal one mile and a half lonff^, 60 feet wide, and 8 feet deep, that taps the river above the fallii, and is drawn from, bv minor canals, ducts, or race-ways, by each factory, and (li0charged into the river below the falls. The machine shop is of brick, four stories high, 220 feet long, and 45 wide. In 1813, the first impultte was given to this place by a factory, and the war, and the high tariff. The place has increased with rapid strides, and the Boston capi- talists are the prime movers. Here American ingenuity and industry shine unrivalled, and in the finish, beauty, snugness, neatness, method, order, quietness, and in the many guards against fire : and in voniitories,doors, and windows, nothing is omitted. The operatives are ail natives, and are from the surrounding towns, and cam about one million and a quarter of dollars in wages annually. The mechanics have erected a large hall, and public lectures therein are given on useful and amusintr topics, by talented persons and men of science ; it has a library and cabinet, and has dene much to elevate the character of the population, and will continue to effect much good. There are 20 churches of various denominations, and a high tone of order, police, and morality is sustained in this town. From Lowell the road runs along the south shore of the Merrimae for 10 miles, and there it crosses the river Nashua to the town of that name, a village of upwards of 3,000 souls, and of several factories and a canal, and a rail road leading to Lowell and Worcester ; thence it pursues its course up by the shores of the lively Merrimae for 33 miles, to Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, the river being nuvicable for boats from Chelmsford to this place; and from Boston to Chelmsford ii the canal of Middlesex. The town of Concord is on ^ plain, with hills to the west ; has 300 houses, and about 2,0C0 souls. The views on the river are pleasant. It is laid out near a bend of the river, on two streets, one of two miles long. The State House and Stale Prison are both of granite ; several churches, a bank, kc; the first mentioned are elegant erections. From Concord to Centre Harbor, on a branch of Lake Wionipiseogee, is 41 miles, passing through Canterbury, .««., r 2«8 * iMke W%nHtpi»9»gee. i***5* Northfield, Sanborton, Gilmanton, Gilforrt, and Meredith, ;ind passing at Guilford^ on a peninsula, over tlie outlet that comes from Winnipiseogee Lake, a a powerful stream, known (is the Aquedachton, with a vigorous current over a clean stony bed, ils water pellucid and cold. On the shores of the Mer- rimac River, for 18 miles, is a sandy road, then Hof hills and dates. Boscawen is on a single street parallel with the river and north of the Contoocook, that comes in from the south* west. The next town is Salisbury, and here a bridge extends over the Pemigemasset, (the name given here to the branch of the Merrimac from the north) and another is soon crossed over the Aquedachtun,and Sanborton is entered, a fine tract near a small lake, or bay, of that name, ten miles long and two broad — in fact, it is a branch of the Winnipiseogee Lake. The road goes on the south border of Sanborton Bay, in Gil* mantown township, amid fine farms, Guilford is a sprightly, busy-looking place, haa a neat church and about 100 houses, on a low level spot on each side of the outlet, with mills. The aspect of the country as we advance is rich and luxuriant, the hill slopes declining to the south-east ; views extensive in all parts, and that over the Sanborton Lake peculiarly fine; and the smaller lake on the north-east is also attractive ; the former prepares one for the scene that bursts upon the sight on arriving at the yoint where the large lake is completely unfolded to the enraptured sight of the traveler. f'^ ' liake liriniiipiseogrec* This lake is 20 miles in extent from north-west to south- east, and from five to 10 miles wide, being of irregular form, and ia of great depth, and has an abundance of delicious fish. It mast receive its principal fountains of supply from the deepest sources beneath, as there is not any stream of conse- quence pouring into it. Its purity has but one rival, that of Lake George, in New- York. This b«ke, perhaps, in some points of view, has even the preference over that, but nature has a thousand charms here 'n reserve for its votaries and admirers, and we shall not pretend to influence their opin- ions in this respect. Not even Lake George is more richly and gorgeously stud- ded with the most beautiful islands, of all sizes and forms, Boston to the White Mountains. than this, from tufted rocks of a few feet to those of 500 acres. As to the exact number, report assigrn, as usual, one for every dny in the year. 14 or 15 are large enough for farming purposes. A sleam boat plies in summer from Centre Hnrbor, in the north-west angle, to Merrymeeling Bay or Alton, in the south- west extremity, arm or head, that yields facility in beholding the groups of islands and the surrounding shores, that is in- valuable to tlvo stranger and the lover of the picturesque. The peaks of the White Monntnins are among the grand outlines of this laUe voyage. The view, under favorable cir- cumstances, of this sheet of water, is most enchanting, either from gliding over its bosom in a boat, or in looking down on its glassy, blue, and ethereal and trantiparent sur- face from any of its prominences, peaks, headlands, or sum- mits, when the haze and hues of a bird's-eye or plunging view adds vastly to the unspeakable illusions of the scene. The Red Mountain to the north-west, Mount Major lo the south, the Ossapee to the north-east, thcGunstock Mount to the south-east. The hill at Centre Harbor head presents n complete and magnificent view of the lake in all its glory. The peculiar limpid brij^htness and radiance of its waters is the admiration of beholders, and a constant theme of eulogy. The breaks and jagged irregularities of the outlines of this transparent inland sea of fresh water, is one of its striking and picturesque features. Sqaam Lake is seen to advantage In going from Centre Harl)or to Plymouth over hills and dales; its indentaiions, points, Jind coves — islands occasionally gleam f(»rlh with un- expectG«^ lustre from Holderness on its west, and Sandwich on its e«;iit border. This sheet of water is eight or ten miles long, and three to five wide. From Ccsitre Harbor is 24 miles to Eaton, at the head of a pond or lake that has its outlet through O-ssapce River to the Saco. This route is for the most part through a secluded val- ley amid loff y ridges, and 14 miles farther to the north-east brings us to Conway. (See page 244.) Another route from Boston to the Winnipiseogee Lake and the White Mountains, is by the north-eastern rail-road through East Boston, Salem, and Ipswich, to Newburyport, and thence to Exeter or Portsmouth, Dover, and Alton, at the south of the lake, and by steam-boat thence to Centre Harbor, as before. 23* ri' jKdfcLi-JfeJli.-AA.a:. _l.>. 'i-.Vl >Ifc i.. 570 BotUm to the White Monntaim. 'I 'i *^ At Plymouth a road extends up the valley of Baker's Ri- ver for 30 miles, through the Fraiiconia Gorge, passing the Moose-hillock Mountain on the left, and the Profile Mountain. (See page 283 ) Baker's River is the remote north-west branch of the Merrimack, and is a large mill-stream bordered by hills that at timss soar to mountains ; the settlements are few and far between ; and on the summit level is an inn, with the ground rising to the north-east and south-west, but a free passage is left in a direction north-west and south-east to the country below, with, on the north, a lake \^ uiiles lon^ and three quarters wide ; the inn was formerly kept by Tarle- ton. In this vicinity the moiinlain ash grows in abundance. • From Dover to JNorway, or Pine Plain, the road is, in part, excessively stony, and the rest good to Middleton and to WolfbortP Bridge on the outlet of Smith's Lake, that here joins the Winnipineogee, where is about 50 hotises. A hay or arm of the greater take below, six miles long and two broad, reaches up to this spot ; the shores are winding, the waters of tho most transparent imaginable clearness and purity — shore varied and sloping gratefully to the edge of the water — soil rich and covered with verdure. The outlet is a large sprightly stream ; peach trees grow — other fruits prosper; spring is cold and backward, from the ice in the lake ; at XUe bridge^ and at othtr parts of the big lake, are caught trout of the weight of one to 20 pounds ! pike one to four, perch one to three, roach one to two, cush one to four, pout eels, &c. John Wentworth, Governor of New Hampshire, before the revolution, had his residence on this road, five miles east of the t idge, when this was all a wilderness. Such was his opinion at thai remote period of the beauties and charms of this lake, that has, until within a very few years, remained almost unknown, unvisited, and neglected by Americans, from its being heretofore offthe regular track to the " Springs and Falls." It now begins to be appreciated as it ought, and the "lime has come" when the purlieus of the cities are avoided, and sites are sought for on our most secluded lakes, as the residences of the wealthy and tasteful, the literary and refined. Arras of the lake, yielding fine views, extend far up into Tuflon and Moultou, and a good road is found to Centre Harbor. , ■s'.'^'-i;-^^' .f. Botton and Worcester Rail-road, m^' Lake WenUoorth.* — The ascent to the summit of Red Mouniain in steep and arduous, and can be effected in a cnr<* riage or on horseback a considerable portion of the dis- tance. The south-east face of the mountain gives the entire coup d'ceil of the lake and of the country buhiacent nnd panoramic. The great Ossipee in the south-east. Mount Ma- jor in tho N. VV\ Moose Mount in the S. W. and ihe Alton Range, are all seen to an advantage infinitely exceeding one's expect tiUons. The Red Face Mountain is not less, probably, than 1,800 or 2,000 feet, jutting out boldly into the lake, that from ita im- mediate base deep down beneath our sight, stretches 23 miles, its various prongs, before and on each side, deeply scooped out of the lofty hilU in the most elegant forms. The islands are from this spot seen in groups on each side of the mid channel, their length at right angles to that of the lake, as though the chains of hills had been absorbed in the depths of the lake, only leaving out a portion of the rotund summit or apex — 45 of such may be counted. The points or peninsulas intruding into the lake from the sides are ample, and retidy to become, with little expense, favorite and che- rished residences of the wealthy. J\Sonadnf)ck MourUain, 70 miles to the south-west, is a frrand feature in the dmi distance, and on tho north the range of Sandwich Mountains. The elevatirm of this lake above tide is about the same as Lake Eric, over 500 feet. A survey for a canal lo connect the north-west arm of this luke by the outlet of Squam Lake, and up the valley of Baker's River to the Connecticut, and the south-east arm at Alton to the Conchecas at Dover, and thence to tide water of Portsmouth harl>or, has been made and found practicable, n » >■ «> Boston nnd Worcester Rail-road, — This was begun In Sep- tember, 1832, the year after the incorporation was granted. It commences at the soiith cove on the margin of the har- bor, near the free bridge in the south-east part of Boston, and paxseti under Washington street, and emerges at and pro- ceeds west over the viaduct, and through Brighton, Newton, Needham, Natick, the south part of Framingham and South- borough, the north part of Uopkinton, the middle of West- borough, the north of Grafton, stopping in each place at the depdts for passengers and merchandise. The road is of the ^ Or Wiauipiseog'ee .ii.i-.a.'.;ii.i.'<^J.-ril*i.V«*-i><'t:-!../«=*A>.'l>^ raa 272 Newton — Natick—Framingham. I iron edge rail on cast-iron chairs, on cross sleepers of wood, the foundation of stone rubble In a trench, out of the reach of froat ; length 42 miles. The cost, including the branch of three miles from Grafton to Millbury, and the dep6t8 at Bos- ton an u "^ Theolog-ical Seminary at Andoter. ' m •iitance of ^outh liberally educated, designed and stud/ing for the minigtry, under a calviniKtic teacher, until a diviniiy professor in this academy or £xeter should be supported ; to this last fund, the Hon. William Phillips gave $4,000. The plan of this academy was drawn by the Hon. Samuel Phil- lips, late Lieutenant Governor of Massachusetts, when only 21 years old ; at his solicitations, his father and uncle gave those large sums that founded both the Andover and £xeter academies; he being the natural and rightful heir, and an only son, and his uncle had no child, but doated on this nephew, and iheret'ore thegif't may be so considered as his. The object of this institution is instruction in the English, Latin, and Greek languages, writing, arithmetic, music, the art of speaking, geometry, logic, geography, and such other of the liberal arts and sciences or languages as may be prac- ticable, and the trustees shall direct. To extend the design above, last alluded to, the trustees in 1807 applied for and received a charter, to receive and hold donations for a Theological Institution. Immediately after this act, Mrs. Phoebe Phillips, relict, and the Hon. John Phil- lips, son of Lieutenant Governor Phillips, caused two build- ings to be erected, with rooms for 50 students, a dining-hal), chapel, and lecture-room, and library, and room for the stew> ards* family, and a kitchen. Samuel Abbott, of Andover, then gave $20,000 ; Moses Brown, $10,000; William Bartlett, $20,000 ; both of Newbu- ryport, and the Hon. John Norris, of Salem, $10,000; all for supporting professors of Christian Theology and students in divmity, as the statutes direct; Mr. Abbott and Mr. Bart- lett reserving to themselves each the nomination of a profes- Kor. A Board of three visiters was appointed by the original and associate founders, for the purpose of having their in- tentions fulfilled ; this Board elects its own successors. The Theological Seminary began in October, 1808, under two professors, with 36 students — the present number are 150, and four professors. A course of three years study is required. The buildings of the Theological Seminary arc situated on a hiil, half a mile east of the village, on a handsome xhaded area, commanding a fine prospect ; the Divinity Col- lege is of brick, 98 by 40, four stories high ; there are two other «»iifices, four dwelling houses for the professors and officers, and a library of 10,000 volumes. >* *if i i If '■' ',■■* i' »- ^ ■ ■ , it* 5a ^ri w HcwtrhUl'^Canali on the Merrinuifit ifc. The entire amount given from first to the present time is $360,000, tty six families. Bradford is on the south of the Merrimack, between Ando- ver and Haverhill, on the same pleasant undulating country as North Andover, and in drawing near the river, are a suc- cession of interesting landscapes, with some abrupt and singular hills on the north-west; the land on the opposite side of the river, ascending gradually with variegated eminences; the town of Haverhill, its fine bridges over the Merrimac, as seen in each direction, as a wide and really imposing river, forms a pleasing combination. Haverhill is on two streets on the north bank of the Merri« mac, 15 miles west of Newburyport, 33 north of Boston, 34 south-west of Portsmouth, is on an acclivity, and makes a good appearance. One street ascends from the bridge, the other runs east and west along the bank of the river. The bridge is 864 feet long and forma a noble object. There are ■even bridges over the Merrimac, one at Essex, Lower Haver- hill, Upper Haverhill, Andover, Dracut, at Patucket Falls, Amoskeag Falls, and Concord. / Canal* on the Merrimac — First, two miles from Concord, Turkey Falls, and dam. Bow Canal, one mile, west side, dam, 450 feet long, 10 feet high ; the canal 560 feet in rock, 30 feet wide, 8 deep; then 360 feet across a gravelly embank- ment, 12 feet high ; then a rock cut 320 feet, 16 deep, 12 wide ; then 2CX) feet to the three locks, with falls of 27 feet. From the Bow Canal to Hookset is six miles to the island dam, &c. falls 17 feet, two locks. From Hookset to Amoskeag is eight miles of smooth water. The canal round Amoskeag Fails is next to Middlesex in importance. The Union Canal is nine miles of the river, with six falls and six locks ; then is five miles to Cromwell's Falls; then 15 miles to Wicassee Canal, a natural passage from Tyng's Island to North Shore, deep- ened and improved, with lock and dams ; then three miles to Middlesex Canal, and forming with that a chain of water communication to the interior of New Hampshire for 150 miles, that may be extended to Connecticut River, near Wind- sor, Vermont, by the north branch of Contecook River, Suna- pee Lake, and its outlet Sugar Creek. Exeter, New Hampshire, has a population of 2,750, and is at the head of tide near the falls of Squamscut or Exeter Rivor, that branches from Piscataqua, 14 miles from Portsmouth, up to a ridge of rocks where the tide rises 11 feet. Here are --■K-r- %":" Phillijpa* jicadfmjf—RowUsjf'-Newburifport, 977^ aUo manufactures, grist, saw, oil, chocolate, fulling, paper, snuiT, and slitting mills, and a furnace. Granite is also worked. v Phillip'i Jcademy, founded in 1781, with funds to the amount of $80 00U to $100,000, is a handsome structure, 76 feet long, 30 broad, wings 24 by 38, with ample ground at- tached, and is extensively known and celebrated for many years, as having produced many eminent classical scholars and pious men, and is yet eminently prosperous ; has seven trustees, a preceptor, and assistant, and 80 to 100 students, part are aided in their education by the fund left by thu Hon. John Pliillips. The site is low, flat, but healthy. From Haverhill to Kingston is rather a poor country, a pine plain, thin soil. The road from Newburyport to Ports* rnoutn is nearar the coast. Rowley is noted for its tanneries and shoe-making to the value of hnlf a million of dollars a year. It is near an arm of the sea between Ipswich and Newburyport, with large tracts of salt marsh, and includes a part of Plumb Island. Bald PaU Hill, 392 feet high, is the most elevated land in Essex Count]^. A small cut through the salt marshes extends from the Merri- roac to Hampton. Newburi/port occupies a mile in length, by one fourth wide, is on the south bank, near the mouth of the Merrimac River, and is one of the handsomest towns in the Eastern States^ having tufTtircd from several awful conflagrations, and been rebuilt with improved beauty ; it is on a gentle declivity facing the north-east — has a population of 6,000 to 7,0(J0 ; three banks, capital $700,000, an insurance company of $200,000, six churches, Presbyterian, a court-liouse, jail, four school-houses. It is engaged in the whaling and fisliing business, and has a tonnage of 20,000. Combs are here made in large quantities. Distance, 34 miles northeasr, of Boston, 20 of Salem, 24 from Portsmouth, and two miles south- east of F.ssex Bridge, 1,030 feetloni^, leading across the Merrimac to Salisbury, Hampton Falls, Hampton, and Portsmouth. During the American Re- volution, ships of war were built here, and at Salisbury, the At- liancCj so celebrated under Paul Jones. The hotel at Essex Bridge, its grove of pines, group of islands, and the surround- ing scenery, make it a favorite place of resort, Jacob Perkins, the ingenious mechanician and engineer, engraver, ^c. hails from this place. The view, from one of the elevated spires, of the interior 24 ^-R M Balitburj/'^Ametbury^Portitnouth* ' , and coast scenery Rhould be seen if practicable, reaching from Cape Aim on the Houih, to the lele of Shoals on tho north-east, and a long, low, fantastical sand beach skirting the Bca-coast for 10 miles, and looking down on tho gardens and elegant residences beneath the spectator. The mountain called Agamcnticus bounds the landscape on the north. Salisburtf, three miios north of Newburyport, has two vil- Ingea, Webster's Point, near the sea-shore, and the upper village, connected witii Amesbury, with the Pawaw River ^ between. It is united to Newbury and Newburyport by a couple of elegant and substantial bridges. Saiisburi/ Beach, un the Atlantic sea-shore, is much resorted io in summer. The manufactory of flannels here employs 500 persons, and a capital of half a million, and produces annually about two millions of yards — a tannery, carding and fulling-mill, and *; candle factory also are here- population 2,600. Amtnbury is seven miles north-east of Haverhill, 40 from Boston, six from Newburyport ; is on the north side of Merri- mac, and has a population of 2,600, the most of them being employed in manufactures, that of flannel being the chief; also satinet, carriages, and ships. An area of 1,000 acres, co- : vereU with water, near the town, and 90 feet above tide, gives a fall and the requisite power to its machinery. From Exeter (through Stratham and Greenland for the tirst 10 miles, is a 4 aeries of beautiful hills and vales, with a good road, rich soil, and pleasant scenery ; from thence to the Piscataqua Bridge is repulsive, unanimated, barren ; the bridge is 2,600 ft;el long, and with its auxiliary features of islets, rock arches, &c. i stretching over the river, connects the east and west shores of the river by a road from Portsmouth, leading to Concord and the interior of the State. This arm of the seoj from a half to three miles wide, is seen for a lung distance, and is of irregular form, receiving from tho north-east, north-west, and south-west, several small streams, the Salmon, Cocheco, Lamprey, Squamscut, Winnicut, and others, that are received into this salt water lake, that has scooped out a deep bed with the aid of tides and floods, trending in a direction south-west i to north-east, and from north-west passing Portsmouth to the south-east, forming its capital harbor, including some islands, with a fort and light-house, and the town of New Castle. Portsmouth^ the only sea-port in New Hampshire, has 8,500 inhiibitants, two Preibyterian, one Episcopal, one Baptist, *•!«**?? y«r*— K«lilK*t<»*. *** Hi": one Univorialist, one Independent, one Sandeminian Church- ei, and an Athenonm; and occupies a handsome pcninauia near the mouth of the Piscataqua, connected with the main by nn isthmus, and with Kiltery, in Maine, by two bridges on the north. In December, 1813, a fire here destroyed 400 wooden hnuHes ; brick ones have taken their place. The harbor is deep, Mfo, and never frefzes, from its high and strong tides. A navy yard is here, also a handsome market, and a town hall, occupying the second story. The shipping and fishing vessels are the principal sources of employment. Distant 24 miles from Newburyport, 56 from Boston, 54 from Port- land. Sir Ferdinando Gorges and Capt. John Mason, be- gan the settlement in 1623. From Portsmouth wo cross the Piscataqua to Kittery in Maine, and proceed onward, in proximity to the sca-coast, through York, Wells, Kennebunk, Arundel, Biddeford, across the Saco River to Sacoand Portland. The Saco River, coming (rom the White Mountains, sixty miles north west, has been noticed before, at its source in the iXotch, {see page 241.) The marine views along the coast of Maine must be emi- nently gratifying, though from Kittery to York it is stony, bleak, and naked of trees. Yorkf that is a quiet place as to trade, is on an arm of the tea, spanned by a bridge of 270 feet, and that it is healthy, the fact that one in seven that die are of the age of 70 years and more, and that many reach near 100, must be considered as important. The Rev. S. Moody began his ministry in the first parish in 1700, and died in 1748, and was succeeded by Rev. Isaac Lyman, who retained it sixty years. In 1692, the savages and French invaded this place, killed 75 persons, and burnt all the houses except four that were garrisoned. IVells' township extends 10 mites along the coast, and includes Bald Head, a prominent foreland, and the JVells^ Rock. Much of the face of the country is a continued plain, with scattered l)ou$e«> along the road, only relieved by occasional glimpses of the majestic ocean. The northern portion of the road is on a (iandy, unproductive plain, with the yellow pine as its only occupants. Kennebunk is reached by crossing the bridge over Mousun River, a small stream heading in small lakes near the Lake Winnipiseogee. In 1692 it was attacked by the same infuria- ted bands of savage French and Indian demons under Mocke* wando and Labrgozee that destroyed York, and after fighting ..j#-. 'r%' * 1^ |..'i , 280 Saeo — Portland Sanery. two dayf, the enemy retired from the bold defence mnde by the brave inhabitnnts. This ii quite a lively place — has a population of 2,500, a church, and a compact village sur- rounding. Arundel, or Cape Porpoise, is the next settlerncnt, and from Kennebunk to Biddeford all is desolate, cold, nnd barren, amid stinted pines and rocky roads, with squalid hutn inhabited by fishermen. Saco, or Pepperelborough, on the cast, and Biddeford on the west of the mouth of tho Kiver Saco, is five milus from the Atlantic. A bridge extendji from each side of the river to an island ; at a short distance above a ridge of rocks crosoes the Saco, and produces a cataract of 40 feet, winding and foaming down its tortuous channels with much violence, noise, and grandeur, and furnishing fine power for the saw-mills here established at the head of navigation for sea vessels. Salmon and shad, in their season, are here caught. The Pool is a good harbor on the west side, near the river's mouth. Portland is 115 miles from Boston, 54 from Portsmouth, and is on a peninsula that has been likened to a saddle in its appearance, enabling the inhabitants to overlook the harbor and distant panorama of ocean and land. The harbor is capa- cious and of easy entrance, and seldom frozen. There are six banks, one insurance ofBce, a custom and court houfie, a library, academv, schools, &c. There are handsome private and public edifices; its tonnage about 60,000; two forts, Preble and Scammeli defend the harbor; a bridge extends to the main. The place dates its origin from 1670, and was assailed by the Acadian French and Indians in 1689, and ruthlessly destroyed in October, 1776, by a British vandal who wag in command of a few vessels. Fortlan4l Scenery. A- The scenery in and around Portland, for variety, beauty, and extent, exceeds every view of the class in the United States. The town itself, built in a neat and tasty manner, containing l!2,000 inhabitants and 10 churches, stands on a narrow peninsula that rises to a high bluff sea- ward, with a deep bay and wooded shores on either side. From the signal tower and observatory, built on the highest point wmm Portland Scenery^Bruntwiek. sal of the peninRulfl, the view is superb, nnd extends to the westward and north-east from (ho misty forms of the While IMountainj), dietant 60 mites in the interior, to the light- house at the entrance of the Kennebeck, 36 miles ucruss Cb:*co Bay. The surface of the latter, timt forms the outer harbor, nppnars spotted and broken up into a labyrinth of lak^s and islands clothed with wood, of which between 300 and 400 lie between Portland and the Kennebeck of all shapes and uizes, from a rocky islet to those of 10 or 12 miles in circumference. The nearer islands, with their pretty shores and forests, enclosing the sheltered roadstead and the va- rious passages between them, the little forts and light- house, and the shipping passing; in or out, form a lovely mid- die ground to the eastward, and over them expands the even sea-line of the blue Atlantic. Vessels are descried at the dis- tance of 20 miles from the port, the elevation of the gallery of the obi^ervatory being 237 feet above the sea. The view in* land is also verdant, varied, and extensive ; comprising a wide expanse of forest and open land, interspersed by many vil- lages and farms. The Kennebec is a beautiful stream, whose banks, like that of its rival to the eastward, the Penobscot, are adorned with many flourishing towns. A short canal connects Portland with Sebago Lake nnd Its smaller branches or satellites, and it cannot be long before the rail-road from Boston to Saloni, Lynn, Newbury port, and Porti>mouih, will be extended al Uifist as tar as Portland, and he united with the great Kennebeck and Quebec rad road, thus completing an immense chain of rapid communication between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Gulf of Mexico — that might easily be traversed in five to seven days, and with very little fatigue and loss of rest. From Portland via North Yarmouth and Freeport to Brunswick, and across the bridges to Tophara, on the An- droscoggin, is 26 miles, following the road along the west sideofCasco Bay; from thence to Augusta on the Kenne- beck, is 30 miles via Bowdoinham, Richmond, Gardiner, and Hallovvel ; from Augusta, through Norridgewock to Anson, is 50 milns , from Augusta to Belfast on the Penobscot is 41 miles, or from Augusta to Bangor direct, via Vassal boro, China, Altnon, Unity, Troy, Dixnonl, Newburg, Hampden, is 67 miles. Brunswick contains 4,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of ^owdoin College, apd one of its professors (Cleveland) pub- 24* 284 Augunia — Thomaaton* i-'i''^<»'^ lished the best work on mineralogy in this country. It is possessed of some trade, nnd its wuter-power from the falls on the Androscogg:in, aid the mill and factories. Augusta, on the Kennebeck, is the seat of the State govern- ment ; has a court house, jail, and an elegant bridge over the Kennebeck, of two arches, each of a span of 180 feel, and to this point the river is navigable. By the loiotr road, along the coast, from Brunswick to Bath, is eight miles; thence acioss the Kennebeck to Wool- wich, five miles; thence to VViscasset, eipht miles, across two arms of the sea, with the Sheepscui River on the east forming its large, deep, and excellent harbor, enclosing several considerable islands. ? From VViscasset stages run around the head of Sheepscut Bay via New Castle, 12, fmd over the bridge at Damariscutta River, (another of the deep inlets extending to (he north from the Atlantic Ocean for 30 miles,) to Waidoboro, nine miles on the Muscongus River and bay; ihence in five miles and across the S(. Geor-^fe's River to Warren ; thence to Tho- maston eight on ihe Penobscot Bay. Phippsburg. Georgetown, Edgecomb, Booth Bay, Bristol, Friendship, Gushing, &ic. occupy positions nearer the coast, south of the stage route on dilTerepi points of the peninsnlas jiitting into the Allantir; and nothing c:in be more grand and picturesque than some of the marine views presented from nu- merous elevated positions along this entire coast, so strikingly different in its outlines from that prevalent from Long Island, along the southern coast, to the Gulf of Mexico. Thomaslon has a population of 4,500, and a Congrega- tional and Baptist Church, and is noti'd for the vast exports of lime, to the amount of 200,000 or 8(»0,000 barrels a year, produced in part from the convict labor in the Stale Prison here established, ihat is built of granite, and is surrounded by a yard enclosing several acres, including the lime qnorry. It is 190 miles north eai*! of Boston, 30 miles south of Bel- fast, and 60 from Bangor. Casline is on the east side of Penobscot Bay, opposite Belfast, 12 miles across, or 35 by land round the head of the bay. The road up the Pencl^scot on its west shore, from The- maston to Bangor, via Camden, Lincolnville, Nor.hport, to Belfast, yields some fine views of the bay and islands, and of the interior. Belfast is a place of trade, with a population of 3,000, and is at the upper extremity of an arm of Penobscot Bay on the north-west. Bangor^ White Mouniaint of New Hampshire. 2S3 It is fails Bingor, since the mania for speculations in wild pine lands in 183> and ISSQ, and the Aroo»- the Notch— Profile mountain. &c. [, . {See also page 2ii.) ,,,,... ,j-r,,- ;^^.,,/* ■m?^. -S.'V ■ The Profile Mountain is near the road leadin£r from Frcm- conia by the foot of the Haystack Mountain to Plymouth and Concord, five miles from the lower iron workM in Franconia, and about three miles south of \1ount La Fayette. The ele- vation of this mountain is aboiit 1,GOO feet. The road passes very near ite foot, and the mountam rises abruptly at an angle of 80° to the profile rock. The bare rock on which tlie profile is delineated is jgranite, and having been long ex- posed to the atmosphere, its color is a dark reddiish brown. A side view of the projecting rock, near the peak of the mountain in a northern direction, exhibits the profile of the human face, in which every line and feature are conspicuous. But after passing the mountain to the eocih, the likeness ii immed lately lost. : ^.-.l . The White Mountain range passes through the eastern part of Franconia, and presents numerous elevations and Bublimc mountain scenery. Mount La Fayette, that forms the northern boundary of the Notch, is 4,000 fee| in height. The White Mountains and lakes of New Hampshire, and the numerous lakes and rivers of the State oi' Maine, and the ocean inlets that deeply indent the coast, are the boldest fea- tures in the topography of this portion of the United Statei, and are worthy of a visit ia the warm teatoo inttrveniog be- tween May and October. 'I ( 284 White Mountains of New Hampshire, That region is easily approached from New-York via Bos. ton, and thence north-east to Salem, Portland, Bangor, and by cars, stages, or stean^i-boatp, or by ascending the charming vale of Connecticut River by steam- boat to Hartford, and from thence by cars or stage, (or 200 miles north to the Ammonoosuck River, and along that stream to the Nolcli, and descending along the Saco to Conway, and thence to JPor/- land, Bath, Belfast, and Bangor; or r^-lurn to Boston via Portland and Portsmouth, Newbury Port; or go by stage one hundred miles easterly to Calais, Robbin's Town, and St. Andrews, at the left bank of the St. Croix River, at the head of Passamaquoddy Fay ^ and thence 70 miles to St.John^Sj at the mouth of the river of that name, or along the lower road from Belfast or Casline, to Machias, Lubec, a busy mart of trade on the main land, Cast Port being on an islaid four miles east-north east, and £Ja5{ Port, tho uU>m.i l hi of the United Stales on the north-east border; and L, ?...\. »o St. John*.s by the coasting vessels, or through the British Pro- vince of New Brunswick from St. Andrews, as before men- tioned. If time admits, we would recommend an extension of the jaunt to E»atport and Passamaquoddy Bay and St. John's, at the entrance of the Bay of Fundy, where the phenomena oftlie enormous rise and fall of the tides that characterise that part of the coast, to » curious or philosophic mind, will bo a source of unusual interest and reflection. The solitary island of Grand Menan, at the southern extremity of the Bay of Fandy, is an immense rocky bulwark presenting it- self boldly, just beyond tiie eastern extremity of Maine, to receive the rude assaults of the Atlantic. The whole interior of Maine is one immense wilderness •' ■ lakes of every size, and noble forests of pine and maple; a: course it will require the further attraction ofgood roads and hotels to be plentifully interspersed throughout this wilder- ness before the course of fashionable summer travel can be drawn far from the coast or the general range of the White Mountains, and the nearest lakes to their ba.se, Winnioiseo- gee, Sebago, and others. Steam boats run frequently be- tween Boston, Portland, and other towns further east on the coast of Maine to Belfast, Bangor, &c. by which a rapi ' 'ex- cursion may be made to the most remote points in the - ih- •ast part of the United States, and to the British possesc>>:< -t of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia,via St. John's and Halifax. m.mm Chaudiere Valley Scenery. 285 to f. Mount Katahden, in Penobscot County, in Maine, is about 5,000 feet high, and is the most elevated point in that State ; and Mooaehead and Chenqunkook Lakes, in the adjoining- county of Somerset, are considerable bodies of water, form- ing the sources of the Kennebeck and Penobscot Rivers. All these numerous lakes, both great and small, abound in fine trout, and other fish in abundance, as also do most of the pure mountain streams of this elevated region ; and this alone would, to the votaries of angling, and the enthusiastic disci- ples of old Isaac Walton, be inducement sufficient to warrant an excursion to those parts, fully prepared with the requisite apparatus. Guides, boats, and canoes can readily be procured on the spot for trips of this description, that, to give u further zest to the intrepid and enterprising explorer, have hitherto been so little known or frequented. A good road extends from Brunswick and Bath, near Cas- co Bay, north, along tho Androscoggin River fur 80 miles or more, to Phillips, in the south-west part of the County of Someriiet, and also along the Kennebeck River to Augusta and Norridgewock and Anson to Moose River, and the tribu- tary waters of Moosekead Lake, and from thence over the dividing ridge to the head waters of the Chaudiere River, and along side of that stream to the e west side of the river, also connects St. John's and Fredericton. Crossing the narrow neck of land that intervenes between the harbor below the falls and the steam-boat wharf above, at Indian Town, the traveler will find a new and convenient steamer at the appointed hour in waiting, and will here commence his trip by the boats, entering upon the deep and tranquil waters of the St. John's, that here glide sidoothly to the very edge of the cataract, a short distance ; we next pass through a narrow channel, with rugged, bold, and lofty banks, cftiting tbfir dark shadows over th« river, aiid emerging from Setnery of (he St. John' 9 River, New Bruruudck. 289 this, the river in a few miles expands into Grand Bay. The shores are here less elevated, and have a more cultivateu as- pect, and the settlements relieve the eye from the monotony of the wilderness, and soon the Kennebeckeis from the right unites with the St. John^s. It is a considerable stream, navi* gable for sloops 40 or 50 mite? ; its banks are well seitled, and there are some quarries of plaster of Paris in the valley through which it tlows. The residence of General Coffin, on the left as vou proceed, if attractive from its neatness, standing on a sloping bank, with the grounds around judiciously laid out, and clumps of trees and shrubbery allowed to remain in all their natural beauty, thus forming a most striking contrast to the general want of taste that appears in most of the settlers in this region about such matters. One iiuch beneficial example should, and no doubt will, have its influence upon others. Long Reach commences 12 miles from St. John's, and ex- tends 19 miles to Bellisle Bay, and above the river again con- tracts, and is overhung by bold, precipitous rocks. On their summit is a block-house that guards the important pass into Sussex Vale ; through it runs the main road to I^ova Scotia. The mountain ranges hereabouts roil backward in successive ridges from the river, loaded with a richness of drapery that is delightful to behold. The hills gradually disappear 50 miles above St. John's, or are only observed in the distance, the farms improve in appearance, are well stocked, islands and rich intervals oc- cur, and there appears more thrift. At the inn near here, called the Half-way-house, the British officers from the garri- sons of St. John's and Frederickton meet in winter to enjoy themselves, and glide back to their respective quarters in their tandem sleighs, 63 miles, in six hours. We now pass Gage Town on the lel^, and on the right the Jemsegf a deep inlet that leads to the Grand Lake, 30 miles long and nine broad ; a district famous for coal mines and trout-fishing, with streams falling into it, by which, with a short portage, communication may be had with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The long, unbroken intervals of rich alluvial soil, in the parishes of Shefiield and Mangerville, are almost on a level with the river's banks, and are ornamented with rows of trees. Oronacto River and village is 12 miles below Frederickton. This river is very deep, and ships are built here and in manjr 25 t90 Scenery of ike Si. John's Riter, New Bruntwiek* See other places on the St. John's, amongst meadows and corn* fields. On rounding a projecting point, Frederickton, the metk'opo* lis of New Brunswick, appears with its tiny spires rising from the bosom of the waters — a city of the woods, new, white- washed, and unfinished. It is a long and rather straggling place, laid out regularly in quadrangles, with wide and airy streets ; the principal of them are a mile in length, and run parallel with the river. Many neat and pleasant cottagei are scattered over the town, that give it a pleasing sylvan aspect. It stands upon a flat sandy tongue of land formod by a bend of the St. Johns ; the plain is three miles in length, varying in breadth from a narrow strip to half a mile; the river is 1,000 yards across, winding past in front, with an amphitheatre of richly wooded hills for its back-ground. The view both up and down the valley is most interesting — to the north an uncleared range of highlands, with detached cones and broken hills, thrown out in bold relief upon the landscape. Villas enclosed in the woods, and farms upon the clearings, are the chief objects it presents; while to the south the river is jeen wipding like a silver cord through the dark wood- lands, until it disappears among the islands in the distance. The site of the city is low, and exposed to the inundation of the river in spring, and to the easy approaches of an enemy. The public buildings, with the exception of the government house and the college, both massy stone edifices, have little to recommend them. The population \% about 4,000, in- cluding many families of great respectability, chiefly refugees and loyalists, or tories, lliat settled here during and after the American Revolution. <) f^ Should, in the course of human events, in the final settle- ment of the boundary question between Maine and New Brunswick, an exchange of territories in part be carried into operation, it may happen that the portion of British territory south and west of the river St. John's, and along the sea coast, may be ceded in lieu of that large tract north of the St. John's, at the great falls, as proposed by the arbitration of the King of Holland, to be the adopted line ; in this case Frederickton would be included in the extreme north-east ferritory of the Union, and St.John^s City would be excluded by the intervention of the noble river^of that Mame. Whatever decision may happen, a quiet and peaceable settlement of this vexed aind agitating subject is much to be desired ; i their dai eflected fa Scenei of I Scot! NovaS ning at D we will p Fondy. Digby J the minei Long Ii west of r there are and at Ic green sto Thatp called Lii features f of trap, the river matic col ken horia basaltic i blocks ar times off dashed fr each oth rude forn trap is ve but is gei The n< Cove, foi ribbon ja twelve in( snd is re winding i •ubjects namental Scenery and Mineralogy around the Bay o/Fundy. 291 desired; and perhaps a complete transfer of British title to all their claims to any part of this continent, may eventually be eflfected by purchase. Scenerjr and Excursion around the Bay of Fundy* and Mineralogy of Nova Scotia. Nova Scotia offers a rich field to the mineralogist. Begin- ning at Digby Neck, in the south-west part of the province, we will proceed north-east tovirardg the head of the Bay of Fundy. Digby Neck affords peculiar facilities to the researches of the mineralogist and geologist. Long Island and Brier's Island, and the extreme south- west of Nova Scotia, is composed of columnar green stone; there are veins of jasper, chalcedony, and a little amethyst, and at low water the amygdaloid, on which the columnar green stone rests, is accessible. That part of Digby Neck, six miles from Petit Passage, called Little River Settlement, is remarkable in its geological features for the wonderful symmetry of form in the prisms of trap. They here present a lofty precipice to the sea where the river enters St. Mary's Bay, composed of regular pris- matic columns of three, five, and nine sides, frequently bro- ken horizontally, thus resembling in a striking manner the basaltic rocks of the Giants' Causeway. These prismatic blocks are usually two or three feet in diameter, and some- times of many yards in length, unbroken ; others have been dashed from their pedestals, and tumbled in confusion against each other, forming irregular gothic arches, and by their rude forms give an additional wildncss to the scene. This trap is very heavy, tenacious, and sonorous ; its color varies, but is generally greyish black. The next place that will interest the mineralogist is Mink Cove, four miles east from Little River ; here red, yellow, and ribbon jasper traverse the precipices in veins from eight to twelve inches wide to a considerable extent through the rocks, and is rendered more beautiful by zones of various colors winding in concentric circles through the mass. They are fit subjects for the lapidary's wheel, and when polished are or- namental specimens. »''?***»?»« ^^, *;«f8^3»v^ t> ii 1;!! 4 39S Bctnery and Mineralogy around, the Bay of Fundy. The next considerable indentation upon this coast is Sandu Cove. This cove is tlie largest on the coast of St. Mary's Bay, and from its favorable situation affords n safe harbor to tnnrinerii. The surrounding^ wall consists of tabular green- stone, rising from the base of the precipice in huge sheets, Vertically inclined, and sometimes divided into separate blocks that lie one above another, with their reposing surfaces per- fectly flat. Laumonite is here found traversing the amygdaloid in veins a foot wide, in vertical, inclined, or zig-zag directions. Into the cavities of these veins the laumonite projects in beauti* ful groups of crystals — they are colorless and transparent, and frequently an inch in length; interspersed with these are brilliant spangles of specular iron ore, that give much addi- tional beauty to the specimens. To preserve the transparen- cy of these crystals, they should be prepared with a strong protecting solution of gum arable in which to immerse then), otherwise they will crumble into dust. About one mile east of Sandy Cove, the specular iron ore appears to the mineralogist in more important veins, aflbrd- ing specimens not inferior in beauty to those from the island of Elba. Crossing from Sandy Cove to the Bay of Fundy, about the distance of one mile, we come to an indentation called Outer Santlp Cove. Between this and the inner cove is a small but extremely beautiful lake of fresh water, with a sandy bottom, and having a very diminutive outlet into the Bay of Fundy. These two coves are nearly connected by this little lake. The rocks M, this cove present no remarka- ble peculiarities of structure. The shore is composed of im- mense sheets of green>8tone of the amorphoui:: variety, that shelve or dip towards the Bay of Fundy, at an angle of 10° or 15°, and finally disappear beneath its waters. The most interesting features of this place are the large veins of red jasper that appear in parallel ridges, resembling more than any other thing the brick battlements upon in- clined roofs of houses; and extending from the highest part of the shore to low water-mark. These ridges stand as monu- ments to show the continual effect of a turbulent sea, that has worn away the rock they traverse with comparative facility, and left them entire, or slightly polished, as obstacles to its further encroachments. They contain in some places geodes of quartz, amethyst, and rich specimens of agai**, formed by narrow threads of red jasper traversing while masses o bcenery and Mineraloffjf around the Bay »f Fuady. )9|l transparent chalcedony in a zit^-zag manner, and when pol> ished, constitute pleasing specimens. « ' Following the shore of St. Mary's Bay eastwardly ai we leave Sandy Cove, and examining at low water the fragments that have been detached from the precipices above, and pro- fusely scattered along their base at the water's edge, agalet of various kinds and of great beauty are found in abundance; some are of that variety called fortification-agate, from a re- semblance to military works on the polished surface of the specimen ; varieties of it are found in small nodules on the shore, polished by attrition, and resemble the Scotch pebble. Brecciated agate, composed of angular and spheroidal masses of red and yellow jasper of fine texture, cemented by transparent and amethystine quartz, after enclosing in geodes beautiful crystals of pure amethyst, that, covering the whole interior of the cavity with protruding cryataU, ?ie in beauty with any specimens brought from the banks of the Rhine. A large geode was found near the estate of Mr. Titus, on the shore of St. Mary's Bay, that weighed more than 40 pounds, and was composed almost entirely of the richest purple ame- thyst — the mass having but a thm coat of fortilication-agate^ externally. On the coast of the Bay of Fundy, six miles east of Sandy Cove, is an indentation called Trout Cove ; the situation of the rocks is picturesque, having been tumbled in great con- fusion against each other, forming rude, irregular passages under their walls. Here are found some varieties of agate, that do not occur elsewhere on Digby Neck. They have a ground of highly translucent chalcedony of a blue color, with angular fragments of red jasper included ; it has slender threads of blood-red jasper twisted iq zig-zag directions, a singular combination of fortification-agate and bipod-stone ia the same specimen. GuUiver^s Hole is a cove of the larji^est indentation that thji soas have been able to effect in this iron-bound coast. It penetrates three-fourths of a mile into the land, and being narrower at its entrance, and protected by massy columns of trap rock, it affords a secure retreat to the small fishing ves- sels when the wind is too violent for them to ride on thi9 un- sheltered coast. Here is a prions variety of stilbMe, that in- trusts the wall? of narrow but deep fissures in the trap— 'th^ color is white, with a tinge of gfe)^. Long sheets «r0 f aaUjf 8^ w^m^wm'^fim^i^'' W^i^ m Sctntry and Mineralogy of the Bay of Fund f A ■>'■. V detached from the rock by the hammer and chiiel, and are remarkably fine specimens of this singnlar mineral. On the shore of St. Mary's Bay, a vertical section of sand^ •tone is presented of 160 feet in heifjfhf, spreading its broad .face to the sea ; and being the natural barrier to bufTet its vio- lence, it has received the name of Sea-wall ; the entire pre- cipice is rapidly acted upon from the usual causes of decay, and large masses are frequently falling. The tide hcru rites to the hei|;ht of 36 feet, or a foot in ten minutes. Annapolis Batin is the most capacious and secure harbor for large vessels in Nova Scotia— a thousand vessels may ride in it in safety, secure from every wind ; the entrance is very narrow, between rocky precipices, with a light-house to guide to the entrance, and to the town of Annapolis and Digby, at the upper part of the basin. The site of the light-house is on a projecting rock of columnar trap, and the fury of the waves is such in boisterous weather, that they dash completely over the precipice to a great height. The gut is half a mile wide, and appears as if it had been separated by violence, and not worn away by the action of the water. As the voyager is coasting along- the bold s' elevated shores of the south-eastern side of the Bay of F ', he is suddenly brought to a narrow passage ; through it the tides rush with great violence and rapidity ; the banks rising on either side with almost perpendicular ascent to a niountainonc height. In a few minutes he is swept through into a wide, calm, and sheltered bay, large enough, it would seem, to hold the navies of the world. Tliecircuit of the horizon is traced on every side by ridges of mountains, richly wooded to the very summit ; the lowland is spread out in wide prairies, and there is no visible outlet to the sea, the narrow strait being entire- ly concealed by the projecting hills and lofty forests. At the head of this noble harbor, the JinnapolU River^ after having flowed through an extended valley of uncommon beauty and amenity of aspect, and watered as rich a soil as any in this partof the continent, alternately pours itself forth in a rapid current with the retiring, or yields to the irresistible power of the advancing, tide. Here, in 1605, was laid the foundation of the /Erst permanent eeUlement in all British North America; UndiBr the name of Port AoyoZ, this aneient town was the scene, for more than a hundredf years, of the most interesting and romantic military adventures and vicissitudes. And now, under the name of AnnapoUt Royals it presents, in its Scenery and Mineralogy of the Bay of Fundy, 298 beautiful and expansive scenery — in its apparent seclusion from the world — in its historical recollections— in Its ancient fortresses— its deep and verdant moar, and narrow draw* bridge and moldering^ batteries — in its rich and prosperous back-country — in its peaceful tranquillity, and above all, io irs amiable and intelligent population, one of the most inte> renting villages in North America. It is probable that no place in the now world has passed through so many and so remark- able changes as the little town of Annapolis. It was twice deserted by its inhabitants in the earliest years of its history ; it has been invested by hostile forces ten times ; five times had surrendered to the prowess of the English, and again been restored to France, when, by the treaty of 1713, it was finally ceded to Great Britain, it has repulsed five assaults, the In- dians having invested it unsuccessfully three times, and the French twice. Passing from Annapolis gut or entrance, we arrive, in 20 miles north-east, at Chute' a CovCf the intermediate being an exceedingly dangerous part of the coast, and presents a line of interrupted precipices of trap r^ ks, afibrding the mari- ner but few places of landing, and the coves that occur are not of sufficient magnitude to ensure protection from the sud- den gales that are here sometimes occasionally encountered. Chule^s Cove forms a wide interval in the prevailing ab- ruptness of the coast; its bottom presents a great extent of surface, and on examination at low water it appears to con- sist of distinct columnar green-stones, whose individual faces are probably the summits of long columns rising vertically from deep foundations. Leaving Chute's Cove and proceeding about six miles east, we arrive at St. Croix Cove ; at this place the rocks resume their abruptness, and present lofty precipices of columnar trap, resting on amygdaloid. A few miles east native copper has been found. From St. Croix Cove, pursuing the coast easterly, the amygdaloid, crowned with columnar green-stone, continues and forms an abrupt precipice for five miles, where it is again interrupted by Martel Cove, The rotks at this place, and the ruins that the neighboring shore presents, cannot fail to reward the labor of those who may visit this locality, as scarcely a week passes without the downfall of some im- pending ateep that scatters its treasures along the shore be- fore shaded by its brink. Here the heulandite exists in veins Tf 299 Scenerp and Mineralogy around the Bay o/Fuudy. six inches wide, extending vertically from :he base of the precipice to its extreme verge; some have a pearly-white appearance; it is usually colorless and transparent, and very rarely of a red color like those from Scotland and Germany. Analcime with native copper is here found — a rare association. Hadley^8 and Gates' Mountains are the next places of mi- neralogical interest; they are situated near each other, rising gradually from the Bay of Fundy to the height of 300 feet. They are formed of amygcaioid, and the included minerals are peculiarly Ihrsie and ab jndant, and in obtaining speci- mens the labor of digging, or ?ven using a hammer, is here entirely avoided, for masses Ji thomsonite and mesotypeare found abundantly scattered over the fields, i^^d^^- rr The next place of interest to the mineralogist is Peler^s Point, a promontory that projects into the Bif«y of Fundy and forms a shelter on the west to a small creek and saw-mill, called Stronac1i?s Brook. The amygdaloid has here been wash- ed away from under the superincumbent columnar trap, that presents an overhanging precipice, threatening to crush the traveler that may venture b?neath its frowning brink, from iirhose summit large masses of rock, detached by the frosts, are almost continually falling and disclosing valuable trea- sures of rare and beautiful minerals, laumonites, &c. which the cavernous recesses here display in abundance and perfection. '.5:5 s y4-»»,fi»s;# ^•js•^*fe^:-/J.'M • Ac French Cross Cove^ 12 miles east of Peter's Point, the precipice rises to the height of 300 feet perpend'xular. The entire front of this precipice can only be examined at low water ; the laumonite and mesotype are again found here, and heulandite in the most beautiful crystals. Cape Split is the bold promontory terminating the north- cast limit of the mountain range on the east side of the Bay of Fundy, into which it projects in a south-west direction, the extremity of the cape having been detached from the main land by ihe undermjiiing of the amygdaloid by the tii- multuous waves and tremendous force of the tides, rising sometimes to the height of 50 or 60 feet, that has caused the weighty mass to fall from the contiguous rock into the sea beneath, leaving a wide chasm through which the tides form a rapid and dangerous race-way, the Hurlgate of the Bay of Fwndy^ and the entrance into the Basin of Mines^ a large body of water extending 50 miles eastward, and 10 to 20 miles in width, and receiving Windsor and Gay Riven on ihe n tr Scenerp and Miruralogy arcund the Bay of Fundy* 297. louth tide, besides numerous small streams heading in the interior lakes. Windsor, on the river uniting with the Basin of Mines at its south-east prong, is a line village 30 miles south of ParsSoro', and 48 north-wost of Halifax ; the ex- penses of traveling and the fare and accommodations are like the United States. The road to Halifax is through a poor, rolling, hilly country, thinly peopled, and of forbidding aspect, scathed by fire ; spruce trees are seen, and, few and far between, a neat dwelling and well tilled farm ; and threo miles from Halifax is seen, at the head of Bradford Basing the ruins of a costly mansion, formerly Prince Edward's. Ca^t Split forms the southern boundary of a strait called b^ the inhabitants the Gut. It presents a lofty mural preci* pice, and gradually increases in height till it finally reaches the elevation of 500 feet above the sea at Cape Blomidon, 15 miles from Cape Split, and facing towards the Basin of Mines. Heulandite here occurs in crystals of uncommon size. HorO' stone, masses of agate, &c. occur scattered among the ruins of the trap rocks, that become entirely inaccessible as we approach. Cape Blomidon. This cape foimsan abrupt termination of the north mountain, or Cornteallis Mountain^ OS it is termed, and< presents us with the outcropping of the sand*8tone, that here give support to the trap rocks, and con- stitute the chief part of the precipice, in a projection called by the inhabitants the Offset. The Mines Basin will be interesting to the traveler, not only on account of the delightful villages seated on the banks of some of the many rivers that empty their waters into it, the picturesque anc^^ imposing scenery on its borders, and the enormous tides that here rise to the height of sixty to seventy feet, and with fearful rapidity ; but also for the remarkably fine illustrations of the. geology of the country, and the inte- resting relations of the difierent formations that are here pre- sented in an unusually distinct manner. The geologist will delight to ciicnmnavigate its coast tae whole extent, and ex- plore the connections of the difi'srent series of rock forma- tions, the highly curious and important junctions of the trap with the sand-stone, shale, &c. The collector of specimens in natural history will also be richly rewa/ded for the perils he may incur by the acquisition of many of the rare and beautiful productions of the mineral kingdom. The most eligible and only efficient mode of exploring this coast, although not free from danger, is by means of a boat, 298 Scenery and Mineralogy around the Bay of Fundy, not no large as to be incapable of being rowed, in case of fail* ure of wind ; for besides the difficulty of transporting speci- mens, the traveler is constantly in danger of being caught be- neath the insurmountable precipices by the rapid influx of the tides; an accident of this kind having once caused the writer to make his escape by clambering up a precipice cf 300 feet in height, to the imminent risk of his life. Cape Chignecto is a bold headland that projects into the Bay of Fundy for about forty miles, forming a bulwark be* tween Chignecto Bay on tne west, and the Basin of Mines on the east, and is an immense barrier of high and inaccessible cliffs of green-stone trap rock, destitute of any landing-place, and a constant source of dread to the mariner in these turbu- lent seas, and iron-bound, forbidding coasts. This cape forms the south-east extremity of the County of Cumberland, and near Apple River is an abrupt termination of the trap rock, where the sand-stone comes boldly into contact, without dipping beneath it. Cape d'Or, situated at the mouth of the Basin of Mines on the west side, presents a mural precipice of 400 feet elevation above the level of the sea, and is composed of trap, resting on amygdaloid and trap tuflfa. Deep caverns and irregular arches have been formed beneath the superincumbent rock, by the beating of the angry surges against the walls. The crevices in this rock are occupied by irregular masses of native copper, of two or three pounds weight, and, where exposed to the action of the waves, it is always bright, and may be seen for some distance beneath the water, and was supposed to be gold by the first French settlers, and thus originated the name. At Wilmot, 25 miles south-west on the other side of the bay, is also found copper ore in veins, in a similar direction. On the eastern side of Cape d'Off the precipice assumes a concave form, and is named Horse Shoe Cove. ■!rH'-*^-i'''''f '•'V' »■ Leaving Cape d'Or, we pass Spencer^s Island^ that is situa- ted a mile from the capo. It is composed of columnrir trap and adds much to the piccuresque scenery of this region. The altitude of this island considerably exceeds the diameter of its base, and standing alone, like a tower in the midst of the waters, it breaks, in a degree, the violence of the surge that rolls into the Basin of Mines from the Bay of Fundy. Proceeding along the coast towards the east, up the basin 15 miles, we arrive at Cape Sharp, a promontory of amor- ■v:\:, Suwtry and Mineralogy aroimd the Bay ef Fundy. 298 , phons trap, forming a precipice or blufTin advance of the low sand-stone hills, and thus protecting them from the ravages- of the sea. Near here is observed ths junction of the sand* stone, shale, and trap— the two former dipping beneath the trap an angle of 26 degrees. Partridge Island^ in crossing the Basin of Mines six miles from Cape Sharp, after passing the majestic Biomidon, is the first elevated object that meets the eye. It consists of amyg> daloid and columnar greenstone, that on its south-west side presents a precipitous and overhanging front of about 250 feet, rendering precarious the situation of those who may pass beneath its brow. Stationed near the verge of this precipice, the visiter beholds beneath him rugged, insu- lated towers, rising abruptly from the sea almost to a level with his own standing, and having withstood the frequent commotions of the sea, that during the stormy winter months is thrown among them in the most frightful billows, yet re- main as firm and immovable barriers to resist the force of these repeated attacks, and to prevent the more rapid decay of the island. Their summits are crowned with a thin but luKuriant soil ; from it spring up a few scattered hemlocks aad a low underbrush, that nearly obscures the face of the rock, but at the same time furniiiies the sea bird a safe re- treat beyond the reach of any invader; but at low water a scene of a different character is presented. The visiter, now on the shore beneath, beholds stupendous objects aliove him. The towers and precipices b a < lore l^fty than before ; and in addition to the wildness and ptciur' que beauty of the scene, the naturalist will find before hmi a field so richly stocked with interesting minerals, that he w.U delight ore- main on the spot and gather these objects of science. ' Of the many interesting minerals to be found at this piac j, stilsite associated with calcareous spar is the most tuundant. Agatesof various kinds, jasper, and chalcedony, may be found in the columnar rock, and along the shore in polished frag- ments ; but the substance that this island has long oeen known to possess is amethyst, that occurring plen» ' iy in crystals of fascinating beauty, draws hither the passit*^ travel* er, who seldom departs without a handsome specimen for his cabinet. Six miles from Partridge I;.:and, pursuing the northern fliiore of the Basin of Mines, we arrive at the Two Islands, consisting of amygdaloid and columnar green-stone, rising 900 Scenery ^^ Mineralogy around the Bay o/Fundy, ''■ abruptly from the sea, and accessible at their bases only at low water. On the main land near Swan*B Creek, and oppo- Bite to these islands, is a locality of uncommon interest of the conversion of shale, red sand-stone, and compact trap, first into a coarse, and afterwards compact breccia, and finally by gradations into amygdaloid. The shore is fronted by a steep bank about 100 feet high ; from the bas t a slope of debris, detached by the frost, inclines down into the sea. The next places to be noticed along^ the northern shore of the Basin of Mines are the Pive Islands, and an eminence known by the name of T\nDer HUlf 100 feet high ; Shell Is- lands form a group, situated in a direction 12 miles south- east from the Two Islands. They rise abruptly from the set in lofty fronts of a picturesque character. The island most noted is the one standing in advance of the others, and forms a conspicuous object to the eye of the mariner, from its having been undermined by the action of the surges as in other instances before mentioned, and thus presents the cu- rious phenomenaof a leaning tower ready to tumble into the sea from the overhanging weight of its summit. The sand-stone constituting so large a portion of Nov& Scotia is of various appearances, difllering grestly at different places. In the immediate vicinity of the trap, as at Cape Chignecto, Cape Sharp, and Swan's Creek, it is of a dark brick-red color. Where the trap and sand^stone pass into the shale, they are so gradually blended that the eye cannot dis* tinguish the line of division, and when exposed to the action of the waves it becomes polished on the surface. - Near Diligence River the shale is almost black, and include* a large bed of compact limestone ; a section of it is formed by the encroachments of the water. A little beyond Fox River towards Cape 'i'Or, the sand-stone is of a gray color, and is seen to alterna n with strata of greyish black shale; both are filled with relics of the vegetable kingdom of s former world- The whole northern coast of the Basin of Mines, with the exception of the capes and islands of trap, before described, is composed of strata, of sand-stone, and shale, alternating with each other, and presenting to the sea the edges of their strata, that an finely exhibited by this natural section. Their elevation is about 100 feet, and i e ihale being worn away bjr the violence of the waves, exhibits the bold ridges of sand> stone strata, contrasted >witb tUe deep furrows eccasioned 1\ Sceturjf and Mineralogy around the Bay of Fundy, 801 by its decay. Near the village of Parsborough the red shala appears to predominate, and constitutes a bed more than 100 yards thick, ihat is beautifully spotted with green, and con> tains crystals of yellow iron pyrites. Beds ofgypaum occur near the head of the Basin of Mines* in the vicinity of the Shubenacadie RiveVf but much larger and more vahiable beds occur in the County of Hants, in the vicinity of Windsor, south side of the basin, and great quanti- ties are sent to the United States. This gypsum is of a blue> ish color, and although valuable abroad as a manure, it here does not contribute to the fertility of the soil. The gypsum in the vicinity of Windsor abounds in those conical or inverted, funneNshaped cavities supposed to have been occupied by salt or other substances. In one of these caverns the bones of a human being, support''*, from the relics of arrows found with them, to have been those of one of tho aborigines, were discovered in opening a quarry. It is pre- sumed that this unfortunate individual, while pursuing his favorite occupation of the chase, was precipitated to the bot- tom of this frightful dungeon, and being confined by its in- dined walls, was unable to reach its summit and regain the light. Thus incarcerated, he perished by hunger. His bonei are preserved in the library of King's College at Windsor. The most extensive beds of gypsum in the County of Hants occur in Newport, on the north-east side of St. Croix River, where it forms a precipitous wall rising from the river, and extending along its course ; it is more extensively wrought than any other locality in Nova Scotia. On the banks of a small but romantic stream, that empties itself into the St. Croix, called Montague River, a. remarkably beautiful locality of siliceous breccia, passing into gray-wacke, presents itself to the traveler — it consists of angular fragm)^nts of quartz and feldspar, and a few spanglcit of mica; the feld- «par being of a flesh red color, gives it an appearance at a distance resembling red sand>stoue The precipice is about 60 feet high, and rises from a bnne of the same rock forming the bed of the stream, that has excavated numerous deep holes into the bottom, formmg beautiful reservoirs of limpid water; the direction of the strata is north-east and south- west, and the dip 10° to the north-west, forming a declivity down which the water rushes, and falling from the broken strata produces an agreeable effect. This place, adorned with overshadowing trees, is a favorito place of resort for the 26 1! 1 14 m wmm ^f^mm^^BBsmmm 308 Seiner^ and Mineratdgy arounS the Bay of FunOy, visiters of tho Mwtagw Houst^ and has tempted the pencil of « noble ludy to portray its beauties. The shores and islands bordering on Cumberland Basin and Chignecto Bay at the north-western fork and head of the Bay of Fundy, abounds in that peculiar kind of sand-stone useful for grindstones and very extensively quarried at Apple River, the South Joggin, at Meringuin and Grindstone Island. Thev are ahvnys taken at low water, and as deep as possi- ble from the surface. The Joggins are celebrated for the quarries of grind-stones that are produced (without tho aid of blasting) from the na>' tural stratification and cleavage. When lifted, a pair of com- passes with iron points makes the circle, and tne hammer and chisel are then used to finish. The grind-stones are then sold at three shillings a stone, of 24 inches over and four thick. Some contain 10 or 12 times that size. At South Joggin, where the coal occurs tho stratification is very be&utiful ; the lofty sea-wall rising from 100 to 150 feet, end striped by lines drawn with precision at an angle of about 30°, separating the shale, coal, and gray-wacke slate, that the body of the clifll' is composed of. The coal at South Joggin is bituminous, of good quality, but is not quarried extensively. The isthmus connecting Nova Scotia with New Brunswick, situated between Cumberland Basin and Bay Verte, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is but 12 miles wide from one shore to the other, and being composed of a friable decomposed sand- stone, opposes a feeble resistance to the rushing waves of Cumberland Bay, where the tides rise to the height of 60 to 70 feet, while on the shores of Bay Verte they scarcely at- tain the elevation of eight or ten feet. One would suppose such frail barriers would give way before the pressure and violence of the conflicting tides ; it is, however, a remariiable fact, that the same waves that cause so much devastation along the rock-bound coast of the Bay of Fundy, under- mining and tumbling in confusion the lofty trap-rocks, roll harmless against tbese shores, protected by the bold promon- tories of Cape Chignecto and Meringuin, depositing their spoils taken irom the opposing rocks quietly on the shores of Cumberland Basin, and thus fortifying the isthmus in its weakest point. The inhabitants assist the process, securing by dykes the soil deposited on their lands, and proHtably use the bounties heaped at their door by the tumultuous sea. From the shores of Chignecto Bay, the sand-stone and *>, Banuhment of the Aeadiaiu. *■■ V- sot ilate foiming the County of Cumberland, extend to the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the north, and stretch- ing eaetwardly towards the County of Sidney^ constitute a part of the diittrict of Colchester and Pictou. Salt springs have l)een found in various places near the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near the River Phillip. Occasional beds of coal are met with eastward, on the north hank of the West River. In the eastern part of Cumberland County, where the Kempt Bridge crosses this stream, a bed of bituminous coal, with lignites about four or five inches wide, occurs in the cliff of sand-stone ; a section of it is formed by the bed of the river. At this place, on the vicinity of the road from Truro to Pictou, and accessible to travelers, are many relics of culmiferous plants. Carriboo River, in the township of New Philadelphia, seven miles north of Pictou, presents afield of great interest to the mineralogist and miner. On the banks of this stream, two miles from where it enters into the Gjlf of St. Lawrence, is a bed of copper-ore, included between the strata of sand-stone, passing intc -coarse conglomerate. It is associated with lig> nites of enormous size, that generally lie over the copper ore. These rocks rise from ihe river 15 or 20 feet above its level, and from banks precipitous to its stream ; the lignites are black, and resemble common charcoal ; some are fibrous and take a good polish. H* ■-'«- II Banishment of the Acadlans. The most remarkable event in the history of Nova Scotia, is the seizure and Iramporlation of the JicadiatiM, or the original French settlers, for refusing to take the oath of allegiance to the British government. That an entire mass of people, to the number of several thousand, should sufier themselves to be entrapped, kid- nappofi, and ordered out, scattered and transported away, is only equalled in its atrocity by a very recent occurrence of a similar nature within our own borders, relating to our hordes of aborigines. But the case with the Acadians is more inex- cusable, and productive of more cruel oppression and hard- ship, the French being a quiet, simple, and religious people, ftnd for a long time 'had lived peaceably under English do- mination. ■i I 1 304 * Baniihrnent of the Acadiant. ! A proclamation wag issued by the Governor, requiring their attendance at specified places in their several getilements, on the same day ; but it was so framed that the design could not be discovered, and so severe in its penalties that none dared to disobey, and by this cuhning contrivance nearly the whole population was surprised simultaneously throughout the whole province on the 5th September, 1755, when the cruel order of the British government was made known to the thunderstruck and miserable inhabitants, viz. '* That your lands and tenements, cattle of all kinds, and live stocks of all sorts, bo forfeited to the crown ; with all other your effects, saviog your money and household goods, and you yourselves to be removed from this province.'' They were then declared the king's prisoners ; but as some of these wretched inhabitants escaped to the woods, ail possible measures were adopted to force them back to cap- tivity. The coimtry was laid waste to prevent their subsist- ence ; houses, barns, mills, churches, all were burned indis- criminately. In consequence of their earnest entreaties, the men were permitted, ten at a time, to return to visit their wretched families, and to look for the last time upon the beautiful fields of their loved and lost homes. When the appointed day of embarcation at last arrived, the 10th of September, overwhelmed with gloom and despair, and with a keen sense of their miseries, they were drawn up, and the young men were ordered to go first on board the ves- sels. This they instantly refused to do, declaring that they would not leave their parents, but expressed a willingness to comply with the order, provided they were permitted to era- bark with their families. This request was immediately re- jected, and the troops were ordered to fix bayonets and advance towards the prisoners — a motion which had the effect of producing obedience on the part of the young men. The road to the shore was crowded with women and chil- dren, who, on their knees, greeted them as they passed with their tears and their blessings, while the prisoners advanced with slow and reluctant steps, weeping, praying, and singing hymns. This detachment was followed by the seniors, who passed through the same scene of sorrow and distress. In this manner the whole male population were embarked and guarded by troops. The women and children foUowod ia other transport! at intervals, --r'-^-p^^i,^- .^f^- v; ; I II Height of Tides in the Bay of Fundy. Hi After the hurry and excitement of this embarcation and banishment had subsided, the nppaliing effects became obvi- ous to the English prnvinciala, In the sm^kinf; and desolated hearths of tho peasant's humble cotta^^e. Without a foe to subdu&or a population to protect, the novelty could not but force itself upon the attention of the unreflecting soldiery. For several days the cattle assembled around the smouldering ruins, as if in anxious expectation of the return of their mas- ters, while all night long the faithful watch-dogs howled ovar the scene of desolation. The whole population, amounting to 18,000 souls, were thus suddenly and violently torn from the fertile fields that their ancestors had cleared and cultivated, and on which they were born and hoped to die, were robbed of their most valuable properly, separated from their families and friends, crowded, as in slave-ships, into small vessels, at the rate of two persons for each ton, transported to distant provinces, and scattered in humiliation, in poverty, and with broken hcams, in communities hostile to their religion and country, and averse to their manners and customs, without knowing each other's fate, and without the least ground of hope that they should ever meet again on earth. While the traveler contemplates the noble dikes reared by their industry, by means of which whole regions have been won from the rivers and the seas — while he walks beneath the shade of their abundant orchards, and stands over the ruins of their cottages, or muses among their groves, his imagination goes back to a scene of rural felicity and purity in which the fables of antiquity were realized ; his heart melts in sympathy with the sudden misfortunes and the dreadful fate of the poor Acadians. ,:*>'» Height of the Tides at important points tn the Bay of Fundy and Ticinf ty« ■>•.:.-.,■,.:.■.. . , ; ... . Feet. Advocate Harbor, . -^"^■'•'''\-'' --;^'"-'i'-'- -',"■'' '-^'^ . , 50 Andrew's, St. (on north-west coast of Bay,) . • . . . SJ5 Annapolis, 30 Apple River, 50 Basin of Mine«, tJO ChigncctoBay, (north part of the Bayof Fundy,) ... 60 Bell Island Straits, 30 26* t * f» •> \' 4 206 Height of Tideu in the Bay of Fundy. i Feet. Cape Blomidoi), 60 •* D'Or, 50 " Split SS ' Cumberland, at the head of the Bay, ^71 ' Digby, « . . . . JU Eastport, S5 Green Islands, 16 Gut of Annapolis, . 90 St. John's, (New Brunswick,) . . . .... 30 Louisburg, (Cape Breton,) ....... 5) Moose River, 30 " Island, (Maine,) 25 ' Partridge Island, 55 Passamaquoddy River, 25 Penobsrot River, 10 Seven Isles Harbor, 31 Shubenacadie River, 70 Truro, (head of Mines' Basin,) . . . . V . • 70 ' Windsor, V . 60 Yarmouth, (on the south-west coast of Nova Scotia,) . . 12 BayofClialeur,(Guirof St. Lawrence,) .... 10 Bay Verte, 12 miles north-east of Cumberland, on the shore of Northumberland Strait, and facing Prince Edward Island, 8 The Isle of Sable., the scene of so many shipwrecks, is 85 miles south-east from Cape Canseau, the nearest point of Nova S«otia. The bore^ or rush of water at the springtide, is proverbial for its violence in places borderinii^ on this bay. At Chig- necto Bay its effect is occasionally terrific on the smaller craft, and is frequently productive of accidents, and an unwelcome visiter. Soon after midnight I was once awakened by tho shout of the boatmen to prepare for the approach of the bore; presently I heard a distant roar and the surging of waves, gradually but rapidly increasing, until every other sound was lost in it. The boat now gave a sudden and heavy lurch, and quivering with the violenceof the shock, was borne upon the surface of a huge body of water. Then succeeded a pitching and rolling that lasted for ten minutes, when all was still again. There is no danger to be apprehended on these occasions, if the boat is kept in deep water, and with sufficient cable paid out; otherwise, from a neglect of such a precaution, when the wave, or bore, strikes, it will make a clean sweep of the deck, and swamp and bury the boat and all on board. I once witnessed on shore its approach in the day time. The noifeof it was audible long before any thing was visible. ^K'^vS- Halifax, ^y n 307 At length, at the extremity of the reach that bounded my view, appeared a huge wave or wall of water, that rapidly approached with a curled and foaming cregt. A sand bank, half a mile in length, occupied the middle of the river; in two minutes not a vestige of it remained : the wave sweeping over it with irresistible violence, now gained some boats moo. ed near where I stood; these were lifted upon high, and descended into a troubled vortex of bubbling waters, sand and mud, whilst the unbroken wave passed on, and dis- appeared round a projecting bend, or angle, in the bank of the river. A miniature representation of this efTect, or scene, may be witnessed during the rapid passing of a large steam-boat along the bank of a strait or stream of contracted dimensions and shallow depth — as on the Hudson near Albany, or in pass- ing the straits near Hurlgale^ and the Kills, an arm of the sea between Staten Island and New Jersey. But to be witnessed in its utmost grandeur and extent, the observer should be at the head of the Bay of Fundy, or on the banks of the Severn, or the Sandit near Liverpool, the Garonne in France near Bor> deaux, or the mouth of the Hoogley near Calcutta. The J5«v of Fundy is about 50 miles wide, and 180 miles long, and 25 to 50 fathoms deep in mid channel. Cape Split is accurately named, from its weather-beaten aspect, its crumb* ling', isolated basaltic pillars, of a sharp pointed or needle ap' pearance, as torn by the irresistible fury of the tides and storms ; also the Five Islands, separated by narrow arms of the bay. Partridge Island, and its covering of pendant ever* greens. tin Halifax, ''4. ,:fc ' ■ The capital of the province, is one of the most convenient sea.ports and beautiful cities on the Atlantic coast. Its pub- lic and private dwellings present an aspect remarkably neat and agreeable to the eye. The Province House is a fine structure, and the Navy Yard is extensive and complete in every respect. Some parts of Nova Scotia are barren, but a large pro- portion is rich and fertile. There are few^ if any, better agri- cultural townships in America than Cornwallis and Horton. There is an abundance of the best bituminous coal in Pictou, I ! *, .^A^i>^ i, 1 308 »:. Halifax. mined to the bestadvantnge by English capitaliiti ; iron ore and lead are aUo found. Piclou and Sydney both furnish inexhaustible supplies of coal for the English and American Atlantic steamers that may touch there on the voyages to and from Europe. The quartz rock, in the township of Halifax, constitutes those dreary and barren hills surrounding that city, that havo been falsely considered fair epecimena of the soil of Nova Scotin. From the nature of this ruck, this part of the county must, for ages, remain sterile, and will never com- pare with the rich loam of the valley of Annapolis, or the garden of Acadia, Cornwallis. Halifax, fortunately, is not dependent upon her soil to yield her bread ; but situated at the head of one of the most beau tifui and safe harbors in the world, with the romantic Btd- ford Basin in the rear, she possesses commercial advantages to which those of no other place in the country can be com- pared — being the chief rendezvous and naval dep6t for the British navy on the North American station. The entire eastern coast of Nova Scotia is formed of pri- mitive rock, and is deeply indented by inlets from the Atlan- tic ocean, similar to the State of Maine, and a large number of the inhabitants are supported by t,iie fisheries, cod, he ^ ring, &c. The traveler proceeding from the United States to Halifax, who is desirous of examining the principal rock formations of Nova Scotia, can easily arrange his route, viz. if he goes by the way of St. John's, (New Brunswick,) and takes the steam-boat to Annapolis, he may examine to advantage the green-stone trap- rocks of the north mountains, and the clay- slate of the south mountains, in his journey along the valley of the Annapolis River, in which he will travel between the two ranges to Windsor, and then take the country across the south mountains and the borders of the sandstone forma- tion to Halifax. We should, however, were it not for the convenience of the steam-boat, prefer making our entrance beneath the lofty portals of Cape Split and Cape d'Or, by taking passage from St. John's to Windsor in one of the packets that statedly perform this voyage. Passing up the basin of Mines, the tourist will behold some of the most sublime and beautiful scenery that th,is country afibrds, be- sides the most striking geological phenomena. Halifax reaches a mile and a quarter along the harbor, and w Ride from Pfetc- York to New B§dford, 309 runf back from it about a quarter of a mile. The site is an in- clined plane, rising from the water, and commanded by the fort that overlooks both town and harbor. The fort ii bomb proof; magazines, dwellings are all undur ground. On the opposite side of the bay, a little farther down, is another fort, and another slill on an island a milo and a half below the town. Nature has done mu( h toward making Halifax a place of strength, and art has done all that is necessary to render it secure. The Province House is one of the handsomest pub- lic buildings in the provinces. It h built of brown colored free-stone, handsomely polished, with five massive pillars of the same material on each of the fronts, and on one front are surmounted with the British coat of arms, carved in the stone. There is a small green, with shrubbery around the building, the whole enclosed with an iron railing. The lower fttory is occupied by the warden and a number of different officers. The assembly room, court room, and council chamber occu- py tho second and third. A cabinet of shells and corals of great beauty and value is in the possession of Mr. Star, of this place. I i Ride from New-Tork, along the Connec- tiiciit and Rhode Island shore, to New- port and Nei¥ Bedford. The Harlaem Rail-road is the onljr one that penetrates the centre of the city of New-York, and is destined eventually to be extended on through Westchester, Putnam, Dutchess, and Columbia Counties, to the city of Albany. The road is finished to Harlaem River, eight miles, and extends from the City Hall, at the junction of Centre and Chatham-streets, through Centre-street and the Bowery, and the 4th avenue ; and at 32d-gtreet, or Murray Hill, enters the first deep cutting into the solid rock — a work of immense labor and expense, that, in connection with the high embankments, the great tun- nel under Prospect Hill, of 700 feet in length, 30 in width, and 25 in height, that alone cost many thousand dollars and some lives, and years of labor, made the aggregate cost of this road to be about a hundred thousand dollars per mile. The capital is nowSl}150,000; the number of passen- gers yearly carried upon it is 800,000— principally as a plea- , 910 Harlaem — We$t Cheater, -oute to the Eastern Stales, for six miles, to West farms j on the Bronx River, a small stream rising about 25 rniles north, and up the valley of which is located the New-York and Albany Rail-road. The village here at the head of navigation, three miles from the Sound and 12 from New- York, contains about 60 dwell- ings and several manufactories, and the tobacco works of Lorillard. "■ Westchester village, on Westchester Creek, two miles from the Sound and 14 from New- York, has a church and 40 houses, a store, and tavern. This town was settled in 1642 by New England people, with the consent of the Dutch. It was called by them Eastdorp. There is considerable marsh on the borders of the Sound and the inlets, and on the Bronx. The East and the Westchester Creeks are good mill-streams. Marble is found here in extensive beds, and much wrought. The manor of Morissania, originally containing above 3,000 acres, and two to three miles long, belonging to the Morris fa- mily and the descendants of the late Gouverneur Morris,whose mansion may be discerned in passing, as a massive stone house, with a flat roof, one -fourth of a mile south east of the public road, and facing southward towards the waters of the Sound, is passed by the traveler through the centre of the manor grounds, and in full view of the narrow strait each liide of tne island towards the city. East Chester village is at the head of a email bay, and on ^** Ntw HofhelU^dlmMir^heck* m the fork of a creek f 6 miles from New.Tork, and ig a small hamlet and cluster of 15 or 20 dwellings and stores. New Rochtlh, 20 miles from New-York, and one mile north of the Sound, h&s three churches, as many taverns and stores, and 40 dwellings, with a landing on the Sound, where a steam- boat touches daily to and from New-York. There are many pleasant sites and choice residences in this vicinity. Many descendants of the French population, that were forced to emigrate a century and a half since, by the cruel operation of the edict of Nanlz, sought and found a safe asylum in this and other towns in this county, and their names still prevail. The distinguished family of the Jays, at Bedford, is one of these, besides numerous others in the city. Mamaronecky 33 milep from New. York, is on a bay a mile or two from the Sound, and has two churches, two taverns and stores, and two cotton factories and 50 dwellings ; and hak regular communication with the city by steam-boats and market sloops. Ryty 26 miles from New-York, and one fironi the Soundj has threo churches and thirty dwellings, and two academies, two stores, and a tavern. At the landing on the Sound, called Milton, is also 30 houses. Sawpits, 27 milas from New- York, on an arm of the Sound, has two churches, two taverns, 10 stores, and 100 dwellings, and is regularly visited by steam-boats daily, and has naviga- tion and business that employs eight coasting vessels. White PlainSj 27 miles from New* York, and seven miles back from the Sound, in the interior of the county, has the court-house and county of^ces of stone, an academy, a Pres- byterian, Episcopal, and two Methodist Churches, 60 dwell- ings, principally on one street, four taverns, and a printing- office and weekly paper. Leaving Sawpits^ we cross in a short distance By ram River, the boundary of Connecticut, and enter the county of Fair- field, and the township of West Greenwich, or Horse-neck, so called from a peninsula on the Sound, u^^ed as a pasture for horses. The road now enters a tract of conntry quite wild and savage in its aspect, large rocks being confusedly scat- tered about. Several inlets from the Sound intrude to the north, and form landings at various places where small streams descend. Five miles west of Stamford is Putnam^s Hill, where he rode down a sleep descent at full speed, at the risk of his own « ♦• s! 312 Stamford^ Darien. and the horsc'g neck, when pursued by a marauding detach* ment of the enemy. This daring and celebrated feat was cha- ractcrisic of the man, and enabled him to escape from the foe, who, when the dragoons that were close upon hira, arrived at the verge of the hill, drew back aghast from the pursuit, firing a farewell volley that sent a shot through his hat. The road has been altered of late years, so that the place of his descent can hardly be recognized j but it was south of the present turnpike, where a few trees are seen ranging up the ascent. A small house and church are near by. Stamford, 36 miles from Now- York, and also 39 from New Haven, is near a small stream called the Mill River, that has ei^ht feet depth of water, and admits sloops and coasting vessels. It has an extensive iron-foundery, two churches, and a cluster of houses where the road crosses the river, and 700 inhabitants in the village. A short canal of 180 rods long, 30 feet wide, and 7 deep, communicating with the Sound, was made in 1834, for $7,000, including three stores or ware- houses. There are also 10 country stores, an iron>foundery and rolling-mill, a wire factory, two large boot and shoe fac< tories, and a bank with a capital of $100,000. Darierif three miles onward, is equidistant from New- York and Now Haven, and is on a small stream and inlet from the Sound. During the war of the Revolution in 1781, a bodj^ of tories and refugees came across the Sound from Lloyd's Neck, in seven boats, and secreted themselves in a thick •wamp near the church, and when the congregation were singing their first psalm in the service, the cut-throats rushed out from their lurking-place, surrounded the church, and made prisoners of 40 men, tied them two and two, placed the minister. Dr. Moses Mather, at their head, stole 40 horses, mounted them, and marched them to the water side, and put them on board two armed vessels that came to for the purpose, and that took the whole to Lloyd's Neck across the Sound ; from thence they were soon after sent to New-York and con- fined iq the provost or jail, where some of them perished miserably, and others returned after having had the small-pox, and been a long time in continement. This" cruel and contemptible system of petty partizan war- fare could not have any beneficial result ; the gratification of private malice and revenge could have been the only object in thus tearing away fathers from their wives and children, ttod inflicling such enormities. NonBolk. 813 Korwalk is 48 milei from New-York, 33 from N«w Haven } haf 100 houses, 2 churches, a bank, one pottery, and two newspapers ; is an active business mart with the up country and coasting trade, and has a daily communication by steam- boats with New- York and along shore. The valley by the river is handsome, and the hills have fine prospects of the village and of the Sound for a lo g distance, and of the group of islands that dot its surface. in tho warm season of midsummer, the pleasant farm- houses and agreeable retreats that abound on the borders of the Sound, swarm with the lively denizens of the meiropoUs, that issue forth to enjoy for a short interval the blessing of pure air and green fields ; and this part of Connecticut, from its many attractions, and the cheap, moderate, and simple style of living, receives its full share of city visiters. The highway from New -York to New Haven passes alon*^ close to the head of the bay that opens to the Sound, four miles distant, but the harbor is rather shoal, and vessels draw* ingoversix feet, lar.J at the Old Well, and at the hamlet some distance below ; those of lighter draft can get up to the bridge. There are seven hat factories, three potteries, and one car* riape maker in (he village. The Old Welt is so called from vessels formerly taking in their supply of water for foreign voyages from an old well or spring near the margin of the water. This is new tho principal landing-place for steam-boats for Norwalk. There are two churches here, a cotton factory, and one for carpets, and also the patent carpet company, commenced in 1834 : they are made, without spinning or weaving, of fetlingf the material that is used for hats. This town wa3 burnt by the enemy in 1779, in the maraud- ing and plundering expedition under Governor Tryon, when 80 dwelling houses, two churches, 17 shops, 87 barns, four mills, and five vessels were consumed. The loss was esti- mated by a committee of the Legislature at $116,338. Fair- field was burned a few days previous by tho same detachment, who had returned to Huntington harbor. Long Island, when they again sallied forth and landed in the evening of the Uth July, between eight and nine o'clock, on the plain on the east side of Norwalk River. Only six houses were spared through tory influence. The officer in command, Governor Tryon, seated himself on the top of Grummon's Hill, a few rods east * , ^ - .*' ■''-. ■■'■ • ''W,.' ■ ■' ' •H ll t 314 SouQipori^Fatrjield. of the road and creek, to glut his eyes during the 8ce.ie with the opeclacle of destruction. After the war, the sufierers by this cruel calamity received a donation from Congress, of land in the State of Ohio, cf adequate value, as a remuneration. In surmounting many of the ridges in reaching thus far, the traveler will have enjoyed some of the richest scenery, and had splendid land and marine views of a superior description. We next encounter the small hamlet of JVcstport. South- port is at the mouth of Mill River, two miles south-west of Fairfield, and is a flourishing village of 70 dwellings, 8 stores, an academy, bank, and a church, and is said to own more shipping, in proportion to its size, than in any other place between New- York and Boston, having the advantage of a considerably extensive and fertile back country, the produce of which is sent here for shipment. Its harbor is small, and has the merit of being free of ice in winter; and of being accessible to vessels of 100 tons. A breakwater was made in 1831 by the United States, at an expense of ^10,000, to im- pre "e and protect its entrance. The New-York turnpike, or main public road, is one fourth of a mile from the village. The Episcopal Church occupies an elevated and prominent position. There are about 500 inhabitants. The Pequod Swamp is in the rear of the village, where this brave and powerful tribe of savages, fierce, warlike, and untaraeable, made their last and desperate stand, in July, 1637, against the combined forces of Massachusetts and Connecticut, under Captain Mason, when the poor Indians were overcome, and as a tribe were here extinguished. A memorable spot, indeed, on which to muse on the destiny, the rise and fall of man, and of nations — 100 of them surren- dered. The rest, amounting to several hundred, resolved to live or die together. Fairfield is 58 miles from New-York, 21 from New Haven, and four from Bridgeport. The village has 100 dwelling-houses ■ituated on one main street and round the public square or green, on which is the court-house and jail, an academy, and the Congregational Church. It is a half-shire town, and Danbury, 20 miles distant, is the other. This village was laid in ashes in the war of the revolution, in July, 1779, comprising then 85 dwellings, two churches, the handsome court-house, 55 barns, 15 stores, 13 shops. While the town was in fiarnes a thuuder-storm overspread the 1 OreenJUld. 315 heavens Just as night came on. The conflagration illumined the earth, the skirts of the clouds, and the waters of the Soi!nd with a gloom and grandeur inexpressibly awful and magnificent — at intervals the lightnings blazed with a livid and terrible splendor — the thunder rolled above the crack- ling and roaring of the burning houses invtitved in flames, with explosions of cannon and firing of musketry answered and reverberated from beneath, with the shouts of the ccm- bntantSj and the shrieks of women and children, to form a deep impression. In 1777 the British landed at Compo Hill on the Sound in this town, and marched to Danbury, and de- stroyed the military stores there collected for the American army. Greenfield Hill, three miles north of Fairfield, is ever me- morable, not only for the unrivalled landscape that it com- mands of the lower surrounding country, that has been im- mortalized by the Poem of " Greenfield Hill" from the early pen of the eminent President D wight, but also by his resi- dence here for several years, while pastor of the church. The house that he built, and Occupied, is a few rods south of the church, and has since been the residence of Isaac Bron- son, Esq. now deceased. From the highest ground in this vicinity, or the belfry of the church, is a surpassingly fine view of land and marine scenery, embracing the spires of 17 churches, viz. two in Fairfield, three in Bridgeport, two in Stratford, two in Milford, two on Long Island, and one each in Canaan, Reading, Northfield, Green's Farms, Southport and Canaan, besides five light-houses, viz. Norwalk Island, Eaton's Neck, Black Rock, Stratford Point, and New Pasture Light ; and, in a clear day, the East Rock Mountain near New Haven. There are l,*2do inhabitants in this parish, that is four miles square and includes some excellent farmers, and farms that average 150 acres each, worth, on an average, $100 per acre. * The assault and destruction of Fairfield was in the begin- ning of wheat harvest, and of one that was cheering to the farmer. The fleet and army of the foe that had just taken and plundered New Haven, appeared before this harbor at four o'clock the next morning, and the alarm gun was instantly fired from the fort on Grovers Hill, near the Sound. They Heemed, however, to be passing by, and at seven o'clock they were steering for New- York, as it appeared, when a very thick fog came on and concealed their movements till ten, 316 Black Rtrek— Bridgeport* ' when, the mist dispersing, they were observed to be close on the western shore, near Kensie's Point. They began to land at four o'clock at the Pines, and marched along the beach to a lane opposite the centre of the town, and in an hour para- ded on the green, set their guards, and commenced the scene of destruction. Black Rock harbor, 1^ miles from the Fairfield Green, ig a good harbor, having 19 feet of water, with a light-house on Fair Weather Island on the easterly side, with a small fort commanding the entrance of the harbor. The Samp Mortur Rock, three milea from Fairfield in a north direction, is a precipice 70 feet high, terminating a ridge. On its summit 13 an Indian excavation or cavity like a mortar, used by them for cracking and pounding their corn. The valley at its base was the site of their wigwams ; and once was populous. A man once having lost his way, walked off the above precipice in the night, and it is also known as OwcfCs Rock from that circumstance. Bridgeport is 62 miles from, New- York, and 17 from New Haven ; the harbor extends three miles up, where the Pe> quanock River, a considerable mill stream, comes in and meets the tide. The harbor is 80 rods wide, but at low water is so nearly bar«, there is a channel of but 12 rods wide, with 13 feet on the bar at high water. The bridge is 75 rods long, where it crosses at a mile and a half above the entrance of the harbor. The inhabitants that in 1790 were only 110, ■mount at this time to 4,500. There are two Congregational, an Episcopal, a Baptist and a Methodist Church. Four of them having spires, and of an aspect of some pretension to taste. This city was formerly called Newfield. The surface on which the town stands is a plain about 12 feet above high water. A second plain, called Golden Hill, begins north-west of the city and gradually attains an eleva- tion .50 feet above the lower town, and exhibits a space half A mile square, with a fine prospect of the Sound and of the viciniiiy. There are two banks.. The whale fishery is carried on, and there is a large factory of carriages and saddles ; l^reat activity in trade, and this busy bustling place is fait increasing in wealth, comfort, and population. A rail-road is projected via the valley of the Housatonic, 86 miles north- west, to West Stockbridge, and another towards Sawpitt8,30 miles west, to be eventually extended to Harlaem, and pro- bably another rail-road east to New H<«veD, by which the old ^^Stratfordr^Milford, t line of land travel from New- York along the Connecticut shore to New Haven, and thence via Hartford and Worcester to Boston, will be fully and agreeably restored, at it has been from New- York through New Jersey to Philadelphia, and thence to Baltimore, and again made the graqd mail con- veyance. The number of passengers from New Haven and Bridge- port daily by steam- boat to the metropolis, is estimated at 300 or 400, for a portion of the year of four to five months, and this would be divided between the land and water routes. The travel to Albany by this, though circuitous, would be desirable as a change and novelty for travelers. Stratford is 66 miles from Wew-York and 13 from New Haven ; the principal street is a mile long from north to south, parallel with the Housatonic, level, pleasant, and ornamented with shade trees ; it has a quiet rural aspect, and about 200 dwellings and five churches, Congregational, Episcopal, Me- thodist, Baptist, and Universalist. The Episcopal Church waa erected about a century since, and is the oldest in the State. The Rev. Dr. Samuel Johnson was the first rector, and the father of Episcopacy in the state of Connecticut. He was born in Guilford and educated at Yale College, and was tutor for three years, went to London and was there ordained in due Episcopal form, in 1723 settled at Stratford, and in 1754 was chosen President of King's, now Columbia, College in New- York, and lived there nine years, and in 1763 returned to Stratford and resumed the charge of his congregation, and died in 1772. He was a man of uncommon talents and learning, and bad the degree of doctor of divinity from Ox- ford University, in England. The house occupied by Dr. Johnson still exists about 40 rads north-west of the church. General VVooster, of the Continental Army, who was killed at Danbury in the battle in April, 177*2, was a native of this town. A large tract of salt meadow belonging to this town lies on the Sound and the river. Milford is 71 miles from New- York and nine from New Ha- v&n, and contains in the town plot 400 houses and 2,800 in- habitants, 480 freeholders and electors. There are two Con- gregational, an Episcopal, and a Baptist Church. The former are but a few rods apart, and are separated by the Wepa- wany, a mill-stream, passing through the centre of the village. At the first settlement of this town the Indians were nu- 27* 1:! •J 318 ^ Milford^Verde Antique. -\ inerons, and had four large clusters of wigwams, one at the creek near the church, one at Poconock Point, one half a mile north from the Washington Bridge, and one al Turkey Hill, that was a strong fortress, with flankers at the four cor- ' ners, to fi^uard against the Mohawks, their inveterate foes. They «oon after retired to Indian Point, and lived there 20 years; and the settlers and planters, to secure themselves against the Indians, enclosed nearly a mile square with pali> sades, so close and thickly set that a man could not crowd between. This was on both aides of the Wanhaweag, and served to keep the aborigines in awe and submission, for each soldier stood as sentinel every fifth day, and was relieved at sun-set by beat of drum. The men on Sabbath and lecture- days went armed to meeting, and to the field labors at all occasions, but no injury was ever sustained from them by the whites. Verde Antique JMarble^ of a beautiful quality, has been found here in the east part of the town. Milford Island lies about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and contains ten acres of land ; it was called Poqua- haug by the Indians, and was their favorite summer resort. It is now owned by John Harris, and is a desirable residence. The bar that connects it with the main rs bare at half tide. On Poconock, or Miiford Point, at the south-west extremity of the town, is a cluster of 15 or ^0 huts covered with sea- weed, and occupied by 60 persons, engaged in Ashing, oyster- ing, &c. and is a noted place for the resort of the ceuntry people in salting-time. The harbor is not deep ; formerly it had wafer suiScicnt to admit sea-brigs to Fowler's Mills, but it has since been gra- dually filling up. A break-water is proposed to be built from Indian Point towards the island, by which a capacious harbor would be formed. Besides the Wepawany, before referred to, are the Indian and Beaver Rivers, the West End Brook, and Stubby Plain Brook. In 1648 the Molinwks made a descent to attack the tribes on this coast, and while secreted in a swamp a mile east of the ferry, were discovered and attacked by the Mil- ford Indians, defeated, and several of them taken ; one of the warriors was stripped and tied in the great meadows for the musquetoes to eat and torment. A Mohawk chief was buried on a hillock in the iwarop. Many of the Wcpawanys Orange^ or Wett Haven. 3t9 rk'.^A'ttiC'S'.')!.. eventually W€nC off, and joined the six nationi in the wett ; the tribe II now extinct. The first settlerg hore located themselves on each side of the Mill River and West-End Brook, for the sake of water for themselves and cattle, and erected frame houses, covered with rent oak clapboards in the old lean-to style, their lots bcingr laid out in parallel narrow slips of three acres, to keep compact in case of hostilities. A piece of upland and aalt meadow was allotted to each family ; and as the population increased, the more remote portions of the township were laid out and settled. In 1640 Wm. Fowler was encouraged by a grant of 30 acres of land to build a grist and saw-mill, and this property, now very valuable, yet remains in the family. Mitford h one of the oldest towns in Connecticut, and was begun in February, 1639, and a tract, comprehending about two miles of what is now the centre of the town, was procured of the natives for six coats, ten blankets, one kettle, and hoes, knives, hatchets, and glasses. Subsequently other purchases were made. Wepawany was the Indian name. There are no mountains, and very little broken ur high land in the township. The soil is good and productive, but is managed in the old fashion, and is susceptible of vast improvement. The shore bordering tho Sound is, as elsewhere, bristled with rocks, and is ragged and iron*bound in general. Orange^ formerly West Haven^ and North Milford, is the next intervening town between Milford and New Haven, from which it is distant to the south-west about 3^ miles. The green at Orange or West Haven, where are tho Congre- gational and Episcopal churches of antiquated appearance, though formerly marshes and covered with elder bushes, is now a pleasant spot, and has a peculiar air of neatness and repose ; and one mile south is Savin Rock, a place of resort in the warm or salt-bathing season; and here the British forces landed when they invaded New Haven in 1779, and their Adjutant, Campbell, a man of fine personal appearance, was killed one and a half miles north of the churches. There is a silver mine in this town, owned by Mr. Lambert, and one of copper in the same range of rocks. There are also found coal and asbestos in the southern section of the town, and a variety of minerals. The building of the General Hospital of Conneetieut will be passed on the suburbs to the south-west of New Haven, and a new Catholic Church near by, before the traveler en- .nijt East Haven, ten this beautiful city, that is elsewhere fully described in this volume, (see page 204.) East Haven is reached in three and a half miles from New Haven by crossing the bridge over the Quinnipiac River at the head of the harbor, as we pursue our route along the shore east towards the mouth of Connecticut River. The first iron works in Connecticut were begun in this tc^n in 1655, and continued '25 years, and then given up on the death of the principal workmen during a great mortality in 1679. The furnace was supplied with bog ore from North Haven, chiefly carted, but occasionally brought from Bog Mine Wharf by water round to the point below the fiirnace, and from that fact the point is called Bog Mine. Agriculture and fishing are the employ menta of the inhabitants. The Congregational Church is of the red sand-stone, 70 feet by 60, erected in 1773-4, and was considered to be a great and honorable work at that day for the inhabitants, and the entire completion was not effected in several years. There is also a smal' Mscopal church. In 1797, in the month of October, (lOi..,) the spire of the Congregational Church was torn off by a sudden tornado or whirlwind, oc- curring in a very remarkable way, at a singular season of the year for such storms. The houses on this road are plain farmers^ dwellings. In the Quinnipiac, near its mouth, ia a very large and most prolific bed of oysters, that are taken and opened, put in casks and exported over New England ; and thisai^crd^ full employment at the time to the men and boys in raking up, and to the women and children in opening the oysters; and this for a series of years having been found profitable, like all regular employments for an industrious people, it has, together with a little commerce and fishing, enabled the mass of the inhabitants to obtain prosperity, wealth, and comfort, aided by the well known frugality of the community. The market of New Haven also absorbs all their produce at prices sufficiently remunerating. The hills or ridges that come down from the north and ter- minate near the Sound, intersect the road as it passes be- tween the Sound on one hand and the hills on the other ; and the road exhibits varying glimpses of the Sound, and on the hills many charming prospects ; the forests are oak, bickory, and chestnut. The mineralogy of the hills, where pene^trated by the high-road, exhibits the trap-rock, jagged, irent, ^ixd splintered by the elements, with the usual slope of Branford — Ouilford, m debris at the base, and the red land-stone frequently to be •een underlying the base in horisontal strata. Fort Hiilf «n the east side of New Haven harbor, was oc- cupied as a signal-post on the summit, and there was a bury- ing-place of the Indians near the north end. JtfornV Cove^ an indentation of the shore near the base of the hill and Fort Hale, with the rocky projection of Five Mill Point surmount- ed by the light-hoiise, finishes the outline. Branford id seven miles from New Haven, and has a Con- gregational and Episcopal church on a large and open area of irregular form, with the burying-ground adjacent. The surface of the township is uneven. The harbor is small, but convenient for vessels of 40 to 60 tons. A cluster, called the Thimble Islands, and also the Indian Islands in Long Island l^ound, belong to this town, and va- rious kinds of salt water fish are to be had. Eight vessels of this town, with 50 hands, are engaged in the salmon fishery of the Kennebec from April to Jul^. J\tomauguiUf the sachem of this place and of Quinnipiac, sold the land to the whites 17 days after that of New Haven, to escape, as he said, the heavy taxes laid upon them by the Mohawks, and by the Pequods, a tribe near New London. The taxeSf if any in those days as staled, pnid by one tribe in subjection to another, must have been paid in the strings of wampum or shell money of those days. The white fish, a species of herring, so fat and full of bones that they cannot be eaten, are used as manure, and spread upon the ground as they are caught in seines in vast quantities. Ten thousand to an acre is a rich dressing ; nu manure fertilizes like this, although it is foetid and disagreea- ble if not ploughed in forthwith. Chiifford is nine miles from Branford, and is compactly built, but has a public open square in the centre, on which are an Episcopal and Presbyterian church and four school- houses, and is spoiled by a burying- ground. There are 150 houseg, a Congregational and an Episcopal church, and a Town-House. Marks of antiquity, repose, and even decay are but too visible ; but there is one gratifying exception, and that is a rarity in this country — we mean the old itone house, probably the oldest now standing in the United States, erect- ed by the company that first settled here in 1640. The leader, the Rev. Henry Whitfield, was a minister of the church of England, but a non-conformist, and to please him the stone 392 Saolicm^t Head-— Madison. was brought on hand-barrows from a ledge some distance oif; the cement used in the walls is harder than the stone itself, that has been plastered for its preservation. Mr. Whit- iield grew home-sick and returned to England in nine years with several others. It was used as a fort and place of re- fuge from the savages. The first marriage that took place in the town was in this edifice, and the supper provided was pork and peas. This venerable remnant of the olden time, tu their credit be it said, is now occupied and in good repair ; long may it remain unaltered and religiously preserved, and it will eventually be a fortune to its lucky owner. The man- ners of the people arc more primitive and pure than in many other. places. Sa^heni's Head, three and a half miles south-west, is a wild and picturesque spot, and is furnished with a good hotel and ample accommodations near where'^he 8team*boat lands its freight and passengers, and in the warm and sultry months of summer no place can l>e more attractive for the enjoyment of pure air, fishing, and seabathing, and a lively society such /af collect here. There is another establishment a mile and a half from the Congregational Church ; both are accessible to ■team-boats in short trips from New-York, and the towns along shore, at moderate charges. The Great Plains are passed in going to the harbor, that, it must be truly said, is shallow and encumbered with rocks ; but that of Sachem's Head, two miles west, is excellent, though small, land-locked on all sides but the south-west, the entrance narrow and well known to coasters. Uncas, the sachem, in one of his battles with the Fequods near by, cut off the head of a chieftain and stuck it in the crotch of a tree, a large oak near the harbor, where the skull remained for many years— hence the aptness of the name, Sachem's Head — none could be more appropriate. ^. The vicinity of Guilford affords several fine views. White fish are, as manure, laid in furrows and covered with the plough, or singly on hills of maize or corn, and covered with the hoe, or formed in compost heaps and spread as usual. A single net has taken in a day a quarter of a million of these fish ! they are sold for a dollar a thousand, and have a dura- ble efiect on the soil that has enriched the farmers on these shores. ^ Madison, formerly East Guilford, is five miles from Gui!- j^ord, and has a Congregational Church and Lee's Academy, <■ i >.. KiUingwor -'Lf^'?t ■'at etibrook. 323 founded by Captain Frederick Lee, that commanded the Re- venue Cutter ofT New London and the east end of Lon^ Iiland Sound. The houses are on one street, a short distance from, and parallel with, the soa coast. Quarries fur paving-stones are worked near the shore, and ship-building is carried on, and charcoal made, and corn, rjre, and potatoes exported. The white fishery begins about the 1st of June, and is lucrative to those employed, and to this much of agricultural prosperity is to be attributed. KUUngwortk, or Kenilworth, four miles from Madison, 38 south-east of Hartford, 25 from Now Haven, 27 from New London, is a neat town of 150 houses, Hitnated on a fine slope, with a gradual descent to the Sound. The street is a mile and a half long and six rods wide, and on its borders the houses are principally arranged with good effect. The Indian name was Hammonassit, and every way preferable to its present erroneous cognomen of Ai^ingworth. As a strong instance of the beneficial influence of white fish manure in this town, a Mr. Dibbles from fivo and a half acres of land had 244 bushels of rye, or 45 to the acre. What do you think of that? beat it who can. Indian River crosses the street about midway, and gives a healthful aspect, and it is in summer a pleasant residence. The Indians long abounded and lingered here as late as 1740. The south and south-west part is a level soil of loam, sand, and gravel, very productive. On the border of the Sound is a salt marsh of 1,000 acres. The harbor is a mile off from the street, is safe from winds, and has good anchorage, but a bar of only seven and a half feet water. There are three ship-yards on Indian River, a small stream that enters the harbor ; five vessels are built yearly on an average. Rev. Jared Elliott, D. D. an eminent scholar, divine, and physician, and son of John Elliott, of Roxbury, Moss, the " Apostle to the Indians,*' resided in this town, in the old house opposite the church. In history, natural philososo- phy, botany, and mineralogv, he excelled ; he died in 1763, aged 78. Weatbrook, & point of Saybrook, bordering on Kenilworth, is the next township, and is a collection of farms and of go- ^ ber, industrious inhabitants in comfortable circumstances. I Saybrook is bounded on the east by Connecticut River, on f the south by the Sound. The hills here terminate one and a o -HI Sayhrooh. quarter aailei from the Sound, and leave a plain on which the town is built. The point that was early designated as the site of a town or city about two centuries since, is bleak and naked, and is a peninsula circular in form and united to the main by a narrow neck, overflowed at times by the tide, and was secured from Indian attacks by a pallisade or stock* ade from the river to the cove. The soil is light and sandy, and 20 feet above tide on the hig-hest spot. The first building erected for Yale College, when first es- tablished, was of one story and 80 feet long, and stood half way from the picket line and the eastern point, and the cellar may yet be traced ; 1 5 commencements were there held, and 60 young men graduated and became clergymen in pursu- ance of the original design of this college to raise up young men for the ministry ; and in conformity to this, articles or a confession of faith were drawn up by the clergy in 1708, and known as the Saybrook Platform, or public standard. In 1718 the college was removed to New Haven. In 1632 Lords Say, and Brook, and Seal, and other rich men that were restless and disgusted with the mismanage* ment of civil and religious matters in England in the days of Charles I. procured a patent under the great seal of all that territory " West from Narragansett River 120 miles on the ^ea>coaat, and thence in latitude and breadth to tho South Sea." In 1639 Colonel Fen wick, one of the patentees or owners, arrived to superintend the company's affairs, and remained until 1644, when he sold out his patent to the Con- necticut colony, and returned to England, not being satisfied or pleased with the soil or the climate, and the hardships of this country, and having lost his wife, whose monument yet exists 30 rods scuth-west of the point or site of the old fort. This fort was long garrisoned with care, as commanding the grant river of the country, and had two cannon mounted that sjffiead to deter the Dutch from their attack in 1635, and was of UBB in the war with the Pequot Indians to keep them in awe and to protect the inhabitants. In 1675, Major Andross, on the 8th of July, came with several armed sloops to demand a surrender of the charter and this military post to the Duke of York, but Captain Bull, of Hartford, with a military company was on the stpot in time, and not to be bull! 3d so easily out of such rights. ▲bout two centuries ago, the land on the point yvas laid out with care for a mik around, when Hampden, and Crom Kb Route up the River to Hartford. 325 well, and the great men and lofty spirits of that age thought of emigration to this remote spot to escape tyranny and perse- cution. The principal street is facing the Sound, and is one mile in extent, with some neat and elegant houses, and others that have a more time worn antiquated appearance. The river steam-boats call at the landing on their way from Hart- lord to New-York daily. > ^ . ^. ;— Route up the JFtiver to Hartford, 45 luiles. The Connecticut biver is one mile wide between Say- bropk and Lyme. Ljpide's Poinl^ at the mouth of the river on the west shore, is a most valuable property, nearly en- vironed by the waters of the Sound and the river, and only requiring a fence at the neck to prevent cattle straying. Tne soil is rich from the drift, sea-weed, and fish secured upon its shores ; and its surface \* pleasing. The next landing-places for steam-boats ascending Con- necticut River, are Essea:, or Peltipaugt 7 miles; EastHad- dam, 13; Haddam, Higgenam, Middle Haddam, 2 ; Mid- dletown, 9; Upper Houses, 2; Stepney, or WelhersfielH, on the west, and Glastenbury on the east, 4 ; Hartford, 8. The steaiu-boats from New-York generally pass up this route in the night; those /row> HartJord to New-York in the day time ; the usual fare two dollars. The shores, for a few miles near the riouth, are varied in character, from low to hilly and rocky, with here and there islands and meadows, subject to overflow, a» near Esi>ex, the first landing on the west, — a cluster of houses", » church, &c, on an elevation. This place was attacked, and some damage (!one by the enemy, in the destruction of shipping, during the war of 1813. On the 9th of October, 1832, at this landing, the steam - boat New England, a new boat with copper boilers, ex- ploded, and above 20 lives were lost. In stretching across a wide reach of the river to the east side, we approach close upon its borders ; an<' also near a rock that an Indian, a son of the Mohcgan chief Uncas, leaped from into the stream to escape pursuit. At the landing-place at East Haddam is u house belon2in,tr to the Champions, tliat is mofn curiously nestled among the ■teep rocks. Th'e Moodu!^ nmtes, a subte'^rantan aound or 28 ' • 1 ' ' ■ 326 Route up the Riaer to Hartford. shaking, are yet heard or felt at intervals in this vicniity. Wn next pass in review the landing-places ofHaddam, Higgenun), and Middle Haddam, the former being on a slope, backed by a ran """ of hills ; the foreground diversified by orchards and cult" tion. The latter place is of a similar character, but of more romantic features as we approach the sudden turn to .he west, where the river breaks through the mountains at the Narrows, and unfolds a new scene, a distant view of Mid- dletown, one of the pleasantest cities on the river, 31 miles from Saybrook, 15 from Hartford, 25 from New Haven; whli a population of over 3,500; seven churches, two Congrega- tional, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist^ one Uni- versalist, one African. The Wesleyan (Methodist) University occupies a prominent position, and is seen to advantage as we approach. It has a president and four professors, a valu- able library, cabinet of minerals, apparatus, &c. and 152 students. In this city there are manufactories of cloths, cotton goods, combs, axes, tin ware, swords, pistols, powder, paper, mathematical instruments, machinery, &c. There are a court-house, jail, alms-house, custom-house, two banks. The extensive quarries of free-stone are seen on the east shore, in the remote hills of Haddam, Chatham, &c. The environs of this place are delightful; the heights back, four miles west, are 800 feet, the intervals rich and well cuiti vated. To Laurel Grove and the Falls in Middlesex is a plea- «ant ride : also three miles north to the Upper Houses, and at this commanding eminence, and at Stepney, are beheld a part of those fertile meadows and rich lands that line the banks of the Connecticut for 300 miles. For Hartford and environs, see page 214. Route to the £ast returned. Li/me is built on a single street, halfa mile back from and p.!- rallel with the river, and is 15 miles from New London and 38 from Nevv Haven, 40 from Hartford and 117 fnom New-York. Like the opposite town, Saybrook, it occupies a plain of a mile that is fertile and agreeable, but the nearest hills are rude and rocky, and as the rOad crosses these ridges in our course to the east, it is rough and unpleasant, and the soil is scant. There are one cotton and two woolen factories, and one church with a ipire. The Lyme hills extend north into « I r Route to the Eatf. retttmed. zm Massachusetts, and form a dividing line between the waters of the Connecticut on the west, and Thames on the east. The lait marshes and meadows are extensive and productive. There was formerly a reserve of land for the Nahantic Indians, of 400 acres, and a difference arose between the towns of Lyme and New London as to the quantity to be allotted to each town, or as to a line ofdivision, and it was agreed to leave it to the wager of battle, to be decided by two champions from each town. Pickets and Latimer from New London, and Griswold and Ely from Lyme. They met and fought with their fiats, till victory was awarded to the latter, and Lyme took quiet possession, and has held it to this time. Matthew Griswold and Roger Griswold, Governors of Con- necticut in 1784 and 1811, were born in Lyme. Nahantic Bay is an arm of the sea, and has a bridge that was the first in the State authorized to collect toll — before that it was a rope ferry, and considered troublesome and dan/zerous. Waterford is three miles from Lyme, and has two woolen factories, and a granite quarry, al which many workmen are employed. There are three Baptist Churches, one of them being of the seventh-day order, observing the Jewish Sabbath, Saturday, instead of Sunday. New London is admirably situated about three miles north of the Sound, on the rocky extremity of a peninsula on the west bank of the river Thames, or Quinebaug, on one of the best harbors in the United States, with ample depth of water, and seldom frozen. It has considerable coasting and foreign trade with the West Indies. The city has two Congregational, one Episcopal, one Bap- tist, and one Methodist places of worship ; three banks, two insurance offices, and a population of 4,5(30. The whaling and fishing business is extensively pursued, employing a capital of a million of dollars, and 30 to 40 ships, and a thou- sand men and boys, and is a capital nursery for seamen. The Fort Trumbull on the west, and '^ort Griswold on the east side of the river, composes its defence ; the latter is going to decay. In 1646 the settlement of this town began by the English — among them was John Winthrop, Esq. Governor. The Indian name of Namcaug, or Towawog, is lost or merged in its present misnomer. Pequot, the name of the fierce aborigines that formerly occupied this tract of country, that were to barbarously e.'ttirpated at a blow, ai mentioned 328 Fort Gritusold. in page 390, should, in justice to a brave and warlike race, Imve been preserved in the name of the place as a memorial. There is a capital view of the city and the vicinity to bd obtained from the high ground in the rear of the capacious harbor and waters of the Sound, and the distant shores ot Long Inland, that appear to ijreat advantage, enlivened by the steam-boats anfi coasting craft. Daily communication is held with the city of New- York. A rail-road has recently been formed northward, up the %'alley of the Quinnaboug to Norwich and the rich manufac- turing towns, uniting with the Boston rail-road at Worcester, Massachusetts, 70 miles. It 16 a half shire town fur this county, and has the county buildings, but the private residences generally have not much to boast of; the recent ones are more elegant. The city, besides rising hke a phcenix from its own ashes, as it has done since the war of the Revolution, is now being built from its own granite that is the basis of the city, and forms the best material that can be desired. U is 53 miles east of New Haven, 42 south-east of Hartford, 13 south of Norwich, and 133 north- east of New- York. Latitude 41° 0' 25'' N. The city was assaulted by the enemy under the traitor Arnold, in 1781, who burnt all the stores, and the most valu" ble part of the town, and some shipping, but the rest were eaved by being moved up the river a few miles. The enemy staid but a few hours, and then made a hasty evacuation of the ill-fated town. Fort Griswoldf at Groton^ was gallantly defended for a time by 200 militia-men, hastily drawn up, under Col. Ledyard, but was carried at the point of the sword, and the colonel and 85 men basely murdered after they had ceased to resist. When the battle and carnage had ended, the enemy collected the wounded and dying Americans and threw them intoawagoa and sent it rolling full speed down the long steep hill, firing at it at the same time out of fiendish malice and love of cruelty. 65 dwelling houses, the abodes ot 97 families. 31 stores, 18 shops, 20 barns, and nine public and other build- ings, tho jail, court-house, and church, la all 143, \rere destroyed The monumantnl pillar on tho apex of Groton Hill, that commemorates this bloody affair, is 130 feet above tide-water, and the shaft 127 feet high ; the pedestal is 20 feet high and 23 feet Bi]uare ; the obelisk 92 feet high, 22 fctt square at the '.' Sastaeus^Forter^i Rockt. 329 base, and 11 at the summit, and is ascended by 165 stone steps inserted in the outer wall, and rising^ in acirctilar forr.i, the inner ends bv an iron rail and banister. The cost, $11,000, was raised by lottery, and the erection efTected in 1830 — a suitable inscription on a marble tablet is placed over the entrance. Every person visiting New London should ascend the monument to the top to enjoy the superb pano- rama exhibited from the dizzy height. Sassacus, the sachem of the Pequot tribe, had his royal residence on a commanding hill south-east of Fort Griswold, that was their principal fort; another was to the north-west near Mystic Riv3r. The Pequot Hill, about eight miles north- east from New London, where the first decided battle took place between the English and the aborigines of New Eng- land, will be ever memorable. Porter s Rocks, on the shore of Mystic River, arc half a mile south of Eldridge's house, and the same distance from the village at the head of Mystic River, where Capt. Mason and his companions in arms lay the night before attacking the Pequot fort, that was two miles to the south-west. The savages were completely surprised, their fort entered, wig- wams burnt, and the terror that the name of Sassacus and his Pequots ha'^ excited, was set at rest by 77 brave de- voted men, that fought for posterity, as after the battle the Indians did not gne trouble for 40 years. Sassaciis, Monon- olto, and their chief counsellors and warriors burnt their remaining fort, and abandoned the land of their ancestors. From Fort Hill, near Mr. Burrows' house, where the Indians so long held undisputed sway, is a panoramic view that em- braces 15 towns, four counties, three States, 20 islands, part of the city of New London, Stonington, Fort Griswold, the lofty monument, seven light-houses, with rivers, bays, &c. Thither resorted the women and children, and non-combat- ants from the surrounding country, and beheld the appalling light of the burning of New London, and the destruction of their fathers, brothers, and neighbors. Portersrille and Lower Mystic are both on the river, the former on the east, and the latter on the west side of Mystic River or inlet, and connected by a toll-bridge a mile below the head of the bay, and two miles from itM mouth, and seven cast of New ! j1, 15 miles northerly from Newport, on Mount Hope fixy, ,3\ow the entrance of Taunton River. Monthaup, "r >;:;>' up, was the Indian name — the height of the same i,-- ing out 239 feet, and from it, in a clear day. may be seen every town in the State from Providence to Newport, the i! , lit •f IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k /. {./ ,^-f^ :a i/.. Q- fA 1.0 I.I "- ilM •^ ilM III It 1^ 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 •4 6" ► V] <^ n H.7 J^4 /!S r ^ ';' Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREE' WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 7n^"ipw 336 BUhop BerkUtf, i ( fertile island of Pappasquart, and verdant and luiuriant fields far and near, and the winding shores and mazes of the bay, form a coup d'oeil of remarkable beauty. The wigwam of Philip was near the brow of the hill, by De Wolfs summer-house, and when Church's men came un- expectedly upon him, he evaded them by alertly rushing out and rolling like a log down the steep precipice without break- ing his bones, and with the activity of a tiger ran along shore north-east, and entered a dense swamp, but now firm land, and was ferreted out and shot by one of his own copper* colored foes. PhUip^s Throne is a natural excavaiion in the quartz rock five or six feet from the ground, near a s all grass plat, and a fine and never- failing spring of water, here he used to sit in regal style, his warriors forming a semi-circle before him, and issue his mandates and denunciations against the whites. Before the revolution Newport was the fourth commercial town in the colony. It suffered severely during the war, and was for a long time in the hands of the enemy. About 1720, the learned and celebrated Bishop Berkley, then Dean of Derry, in Ireland, resigned his office and emi- grated to America,' intending to establish a college for the benefit of the colonies and the promotion of classical learn- ing, having been promised £20,000 for aiding this object, throurh the British prime minister, Sir Robert Walpole. Bishop Berkley's arrival caused some sensation, and was duly noticed in the papers of the day. His first step was to purchase a landed estate of about 100 acres, three miles from Newport, to mature his object and confer with influential men , but a tedious delay and disappointment in the receipt of the expected funds thwarted his liberal intentions, and after a residence of three years he gave up and returned to England, and became Bishop of Cloyne, and died while on a visit to Oxford University ; bequeathing, his property in Rhode Island to Yale College, to endow a protessorsliip of the learned languages, or to give triennial premiums for scholars that resided in the college for three years after graduation, and excelled in classic ioi>e. Such a residence as belonged to this generous donor should not be unvisited by the learned, the pa^triotic Americsn, as a tribute to worth, and to inhale the atmosphere that surrounds the spot, and tread beneatii the shades once graced by such a distinguish^^d scholar and philanthropist. ■?=a*;»«i^^f^r¥'^rrTt'-nBr.'"'T7i» '■•?^:?'spn'» ' V^^ ■^ ' Nanhagauttti S*p* 337 TBIUIBB ON TKB r*ROSFBOT OF PLANTIVO ARTS. AND I.BAJIIII1I« IN A NBRICA. BT BISHOP BBRKLBY. Thk ni ise disgusted at on age ^.od clime Barr« )n of every glorious theme, In dista nt lands now waits a better time, Producing subjects worthy fsune: Ib happ y climes, where, iVom the genial sub And V irgin earth, sucU scenes ensue, The fori :e of art by nature seems outdone, And fancied beauties by the true. In happ} ' climes, the seat of innocence, ' When ) nature guides and virtue rules ; Where n len shall not impose for truth and sense, ; The pi idantry of courts and schools. There sh] ill he sinjg another golden age. The sit e of empire and of arts. The good and great inspiring epic rage. The wii lest heads and noblest hearts. Not such I IS Europe breeds in her decay ; * Such as she bred when fresh and young, When hea ivenly flame did animate her clay, ' fi(y futui 'e poets shall be sung. ¥ Westwari il the eourse of empire takes its way : Thefou r first acts already past, A fifth shal U close the drama with the day— Tiae's i: loblest offspring is the last. Thn Sound steam Bfld New -York, Ian give the resident n itours with New-Yo hours with Boston, Leaving Newpori Among the archipei for 16 miles, passin such as Eiist Grteh wich Bay, and *Appi and Warwick on th) west shore; and B farther north, War the east shore; an« enter Providence B miles «|> at th« hea f i-boats that ply daily between Proyidence d and receive passengers each trip, and ;ere constant communication in lU to 15 rk and Philadelphia, and in four or five by the rail-road from Providence. t we direct our course north, winding ago of islands in the Nanhagansett Bay, g in review before several small towns, \yaich on the south-west prong of Grecn- tnangt or Nassaukti, on the north-west, 3 north-east of the same bay, all on the ristol, near Mount Hope ; and five miles Ten, on Warren or Palmer's River, on 1 then turning more to the north-west, ajr, and passing Pawtucket River, in five d pf the bay, just before arriving at the 29 n ■P"^ if H I • 1 \ 33S Protidenee. citj, the Pawtucket RiveVf alias Sekonk, or Blackstone River , that rises in the centre of Worcester County, Massachu- setts, and accompanies the Blackstone Canal nearly to its termination in the city limits. The occurrence of three seve- ral rivers of nearly the same name, and all beginning with PaWf and all in the same State within a few miles, is puz- zling to a stranger, and must be explained and remembered. Pawcaiuck is the river that divides Connecticut and Rhode Island. Pawtuxtt River enters into Providence Bay from the west, and branches in the counties of Kent and Provi- dence, near the centre of the State. A small town of the same name is near the mouth. Pawtucket, or Blackstone Biver, comes in on the south-east side of Providence, and has two bridges spanning it, the India and Central bridges. Providence ranks next to Boston, and is the second city in New England for population (30,000,) wealth, and manufac- turing industry, that is attracted around it by water power and other facilities. It is at the head of the Providence River, and of tide, 35 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, and is a plea- sant, well- built, and thriving, active place, with much coasting and foreign trade ; ships of large size can reach'the wharves, and 2,500 tons of shipping are here owned. The new rail- roads to Boston and Stonington meet here. Here are twelve churches of a style and good taste (^uite commendable ; an arcade, or bazaar, of granite of a light color, with a colonnade strikingly fine in proportion ;, three colleget on the hill over- looking the city, and belonging to Brown University, under Baptist influence. There are two bridges over to Sekonk on the east, and another; 11 banks, and a iiost of manufacto- ries, the main-spring of its prosperity and enterprise. The education of youth is well attended to in its schools and acade- mies. The town is built on both sides of the river, and is united by a beautiful bridge 90 feet wide, spanning the river. The usual public edifices, a market, court-house, and jail, are neat and well built. Religious toleration and liberality in religion is here fully understood iand enjoyed. Of the sects, four are Baptists, three Congregationalists, one each of Episcopal, Friends, Methodist, Universal is t, and Africans. Many of the private residences are unique, elegant, and fine- ly platted, and have extensive views of the city and country. if^r^/ PavBtuehet—AUlehorough. 33!» Boston and Providence Railroad — The capital paid in is $1,783,000. The receipts the past year were, For passengers, $196,974 For merchandise, 64,148 . : Mail, ^,250, rents $1,741, . . . 3.991 Total $265,113 Dividends for oiie year, $136,312. The Rhode Island Rait- road Company extends to Pawtucket, or the Massachusetts line, four mi]es from Providence. A branch rail -road extends from the Boston and Provi- dence Rail-road to Taunton, 15 miles to the east. The rail-road cars start at regular hours, and not on the arrival of the boats, as formerly. Fare to Boston $2, Sto- nington the same — distance 40 miles. ' Leaving Providence from the dep6t at Sekonk, for Boston, by the new rail-road route of 40 miles, or by a good turnpike nearly parallel with it, we arrive in four miles at Pawtucketf at and belo>v the beautiful falls in the river, north-east from Providence. Here a grand sight bursts upon the traveler as he crosses the bridge or viaduct, and beholds the entire body of the large Pawtucket or Blackstone River, of considerable width (200 feet) and volume, tumb- ling over the rocks in a variety of foaming, heaving chutes, with a descent here of 30, and in all of 50 feet, that gives immense water power for the variety of manufactories that are here established, viz. 12 cotton factories, with 35,000 spindles and 1,000 looms, five machine shops, and four iron works, &,c.,the whole employing 2,000 operatives. The river that passes down through, or past, two bridges as before stated, is navigable for large vessels to this village — popula- tion 3,000. The Pawtucket Bank has a capital of $100,000. 36 miles south from Boston, 16 west from Taunton, 38 south- east from Worcester. In this town the first cotton factory established in the United States commenced. AtlUhorough is the next town, and has a branch of the Pawtucket and other streams, with tine water-power, eight cotton mills, with 13,000 spindles and 356 looms, employing 420 operatives; also a metal button factory, 75 men, and manufacturies of jewelry, glass buttons, straw hats, and shuttles. There is a small village round the church, and there are in the township two Presbyterian and two Baptist eongregationi. '' t) 740 Attleboraugh-^HaHjah Weld. i t^ I'l ( The Rev. Habijah Weld, pastor of the fir»t chureb here, from 1727 to 1782—55 years, deserves mention, as a most distinguished examj^e of the purity, zeal, and exactness of the genuine descendants of the puritans of ithe old school. Mr. Weld's salary was but $220 a year, and th e use of a par- sonage lot; with this and a farm of 70 acres, he was enabled to support his family of 15 children, and educare them better than usual, to entertain much company very hospitably, and aid those requiring. His fixed rules were, bre^akfai: rat six, dinner at 12, and supper at six — all precise to the minute — no visits made or permitted after that hour. The rigid ab- servance of these arrangements by his children, laborers, and servants with cheerfulness and submission, wasr the secret of the prosperity and pleasantness of the family. Hta hired people, no matter how busy the season, or of urgent knpor- tance, even if crops were in the open field and threatened by rain, were, according to the custom of our forefathers, dis- missed so early on Saturday afternoon as to allow them to reach home before sunset, the begiiining of his and theNew England Sabbath. Cattle all fed, cows milked, and the family assembled, and spent the evening in reading and prayer until nine o'clock, when they all retired, and on the Sabbath naught but acts of strict necessity and mercy were permitted until sunset* During his long life he was never once detained from the pulpit by disease, nor from any other of his pastoral duties. His sermons were written, and exactly delivered ; but he could extemporize occasionally, but never compromised with error. Not a riot, or dissipation, or violation of order among his parishioners escaped his rebuke in public ; and if any one slept during divine service, a sharp and pungent reproof fol- lowed. His parochial visits were punctual, to comfort, console, rebuke, or alarm ; and stubbornness and impiety quailed ai his solemn and severe lessons. Neither by ison- versaticn or in public did he allow vicp, licentiousness, idle- ness, intemperance, or profaneness to escape censure ; and his own example of virtue caused in others the greatest veneration and complete irreproachability in his character. His manners were dignified and polite, and his family cour- teous and well>bred, and harmony and good will ever existed. He was below the middle stature, corpulent, of a vigorous constitution and energetic mind ; and in his seal and fidelity in his duties, no one since the apostolic days ezceed'ed Mr. Foxborough — Canton^ Cohaittt. 341 W. He died of apoplexy, in his 83d year, and so were his secular affairs arranged, that tlie settlement of his estate cost less than tive dollars ; and at the time of his death only one of his congregation was living of those who assisted in his settlement. Industry, exactness, economy, and regularity were the true causei of his prosperity, and ability to sustain his large family. In Foxborough and Wrenthmn^ Franklin, Med way, and Medfield, large quantities of cotton and straw are used and made into bonnets in the factories. On several streams in Wrentham, issuing from a large pond, are five cotton mills and factories of woolen cloth and thread. Anthracite coal has been found in the vicinity, and in Mansfield, contiguous, on the south-east. The Mansfield Coal Company have sunk a shaft to the depth of 34 feet, from which a drift is worked horizontally, a short distance into a bed of anthracite coal, about 10 feet thick — of carbon, 96 parts ; aluminous iron, &c. four; the rail-road from Boston to Provide'nce is within 80 rods. Sharon and Wtdpok have the head waters of the !Neponsett River, and in the latter are a paper and six cotton mills, two woolen factories, and a large one for hoes, and also a furnace — great quantities of straw are also made up — limestone is here found. The Mashapany Pond is in Sharon. Canton, 15 miles south of Boston, is also on the Nepon- sett, has several large ponds, a manufactory of bells of superior metal and sound, a steel furnace, two forges, two rolling mills, a turning mill, and a factory of sheet lead ; also three cotton mills, a woolen factory, making 600,000 yards of cloth annually, three machine shops, and factories of sati- net, thread, wick, yarn, cutlery, and farming utensils ; it has good water power, and iu easily approached by rail-road. The viaduct or bridge here cost $80,000, and is of massive hewn granite, 600 feet long, 63 feet above the foundation, on six arches, with a succession of arches at the top, and is an ad- mirable piece of workmanship; Cohassetf on the sea coast of the Massachusetts Bay, is noted for its rocky coast and numerous shipwrecks ; it is 16 miles south-east of Boston by water, and 30 by land ; has about 100 sail of merchant, coasting, and fishing vessels, and a large tida-water power. Salt is made here. This is a great resort for citizens and strangers in summer, to escape the sultriness of the metropolis, enjoy the sea view, pure and exhilarating air, and the pleasures of fashionable society.. 29^ ( I 34S MUton^ Quincy-^Dorehetter^Roxhury, ■ \\- IW I 1 •T;^ \'Q' The heavy swell and surf that impinges with great noise an< violence on this exposed and dangerous coast, during a long northeast storm, is one of the grandest sights in nature, and equal to Niagara. MUton, on the Neponsett, seven miles south of Boston and six east of Dedham, is near the head of tide; and Blue Hill, about four miles east, 710 feet above the sea, is a noted land- mark for sailors, and there is a main and land view most ex- tensive and glorious to behold from its prominent and eleva- ted summit ; paper mills and cotton factories are at the stream near its base. A branch from the main rail-road leads two miles west to Dedham, a town pleasantly situated on Charles River, as here called, or the Neponsett, 10 miles south-west of Boston. It is the chief town m Norfolk County, and has a court house of hewn granite, three cotton and one worsiec^ factories, a paper mill; lead pipes and pumps are made. ^ The celebrated orator, Fisher Ames, was born here in 1758, and died in 1808i Dedham Bank, capital $150,000^popa- lation, 3,117. Q,uincy is eight miles south of Boston, and 10 east of Ded- ham, or Quincy, or Braintree Bay, and noted as the birth- place of two distinj^uished Presidents of the United States, John Adams, and His son, John Quincy Adams, who now resides here, and is the representative in Congress from that county. The celebrated granite of this region is quarried to ■ great amount, and taken by a rail-road down to the Nepon- sett ; this was the first rail-road made in the United States. Boots, shoes, and salt are here made. The good schools and pleasant site induce many families to reside here. Dorchester can boast of erecting the first water mill in this county in 1633 ; it has now a great Variety of manufactures, and the soil and face of the country is such as (o please and attract the horticulturist, and farmer, and the wealthy citizen. Dorchester and Milton Bank, capital $100,000; population, 4,000. Roxburyy three miles from Boston, is separated by the celebrated narrow neck or strip of land from the city, and was fortified during the revolutionary war by lines thrown up across the isthmus, and defended by the enemy. The coun- try is rocky and uneven, and by the eitercise of good taste and expenoitare of money and skill, a residence here is r^ry V '' Taunton, 4 A.,«.-.i- .... 343 ftttrtcUve, tnd it abouDds in pleasure groundi and neat pnansions— numeroui omnibusses ply constantly, to the de- light of thousands. The epvirona of Jamtdea Pcndf in this town^ are very at- tractive and delightful, and every stranger should make a pilgrimage around its vicinity. The late defunct Norfolk Bank was here, that had a capital of $200,000. The People's Bank has a capital of $100,000. In 1827 the first hourly coach from Boston to this place was established, now others run to Charlestown, Cambridge, Dorchester, and other pla- ces, to say nothing of rail-roads, and the public convenience is greatly promoted. The rail-road enters Boston, and lands the traveler at the dep6t, near the Mall, or common. Taunton, 20 miles east-north-east of Providence, is a beau-* i tiful place, and the shire town of the county, at the head of sloop navigation on the Taunton River, 32 miles south of Boston, and 32 north of Newport ; it has much water*power, eight cotton factories, one calico printing factory, a large forge, and factories for nails, brads, wire, hoop iron, sheet sine, &c. and coach and carriage makers ; 30 coasting ves- sels. A rail-road is made to unite with one from Providence to Boston. Here are three banks — the Taunton, capital $250,000, the Bristol County, capital $100,000, and the Cohannet, capital $100,000; also two Insurance Companies, and a number of moral and religious institutions — population of the township, 6,000. The town is built on the west side of the river, and has two lively-looking verdant greens or squares, the Presbyterian Church being on one, and the court house on the other. The landing is at a village one and a half mile down the river ; a great deal of iron is used up here, and the first shovels in the old colonial times were made here by Samuel Leonard. The bog iron, or ore, that grows in the numerous small lakes in Plymouth County, in Pembroke, Kingston, Halifax^ Plymton, and especially on the Assawampsit, and Long Pond in Middleborough, that is raked from the bottom, has given the impetus to the iron trade. One of the first rolling and slitting mills in New England was in this county in 1750. In Bridgewater, and a few miles north-east towards Scitu- ate, and on a line extending from Taunton towards Roches- ter and Buzzards Bay, begins the vast body of sand that, penading the south-east of Massachusetts, forms the penin-. aula of Cape Cod. '' ii I i; 344 Raynkam^Fall River. Raynham, on Taunton River, is three milei east of Taun- ton. A number of large ponds exist in this township, pro^ ducing a good water power, and to which vast quantities of herring resort. On the side of one of these ponds Philip had a hunting house. The venerable house of the ** Leo- nard5," erected in 1650, an oh) gothic building, is now standing and owned by the seventh generation ; their ancestors were eminent in the iron business, and also for their remarkable longevity, for of 44 males, 30 of them lived to be 74, and between 80 and 90 years, and the rest to be aged ; and of 36 females, two to be near 100 ; three above 80 ; nine above 75; five near 70; eight were aged. The love of good order that prevails hero is proverbial, and it has been said that " among them was never found a tory, a friend to paper money, or an insurgent. The road from Newport to Boston by land is up the island to Tiverton ferry, thence through Troy or Fall River, and across it to Somerset, and up to Dighton and Taunton. Fall River, so named from being on the Falls of the out- let of the Wattuppa Ponds, is an important manufacturing town at the junction of the stream with Taunton River, and near Moi'-nt Hope Bay. One of these ponds is II miles long and one mile wide ; they are produced by deep, never-end> ing springs, and are two miles east of the settlement ; the descent of this river is 136 feet in a regular volume of water, not liable to excess or diminution, and adequate to heavy manufacturing operations. Here are nine cotton factories, 31,000 spindles, 1,100 looms; two printing establishments of 5,000,000 yards of calico yearly ; one satinet factory of 260,000 yards the year; one rolling and slitting mill of 700 tons of nails, one iron foundery, two machine shops, 1,768 operatives — paid for labor, $316,175; the cost of stock and maieiials manufactured is Siil32,583 annually. Fall River Bank, capital S200,000. The harbor is safe, and of easy access, and deep enough for the largest ships that are fitted out here as whalers ; a marine rail-way or dry dock exists here. The population in 1834, 5,500. There is granite here equal to any in the Eastern States ; a rail-road is to be made to Sekonk, 13 miles, to intersect the one from Providence to Boston. The Pocasset Hotel, built in 1833, is a splendid building, and no house in the country has better accbmniodations. A regu- lar 8team*boat line exists from this to Providence^ 28 mUes ■•**■.# Difhtan—NetB Bedford- >,% 34S the bjr water, by which this place can readily be visked by the curious stranger from ^lew-York or elsewhere, and proceed south-east to New Bcuford, or north-east to Taunton, or west to Bristol and Mount Hope, and Philip's throne and spring. (See page 336.) DightoD, a port of entry on the west side of Taunton River, has three cotton factories, a furnace and other iron works, and is noted for the marks or hieroglyphics that re- main on a rock as when noticed by the first settlers 200 years since, and supposed to be Danish or Indian. In proceeding east from Newport to New Bedford, we pass in succession Westportf on the Acoakset, and Dartmouth, on the Accuahnot River, (two small streams and inlets near the mouth of BuBsarda Bay,) both of them owning a few whalerk and coasters, and having mills, factories, and iron works ; and in six miles arrive at New Bedford, an important place of business, a port of entry on the west side of the Acushnot, a small stream that falls into an estuary of Buzzards Bay. The town is on a hill that faces towards the harbor on the east, and appears to good advantage from Fairhaven on the oppo- site side of the bay or harbor, with which it has communi- cation by a bridge of three quarters of a mile Inng, besides the abutments, islands, and a bar that extends 200 feet itiore in a circuitous manner. The water in the channel is more than 30 feet deep. The entrance is narrow, the anchorage is good, the harbor cspacious and safe. The whaling business is carried on from this town on a large scale, employing, at this time, 150 ships and brigs, amounting to 70,000 or 80,000 tons. There are ^10 oil and candle manufactories, besides much oil and spermaceti sofd in a crude state. The popula- tion has increased from 700 in 1790, to 13,354 in 1839: much attention is bestowed on education by its excellent academy, and 16 public and many private schools of great excdlence. There are four banks, with a capital of $1,300,000, and an insurance capital of $400,000. It is 214 miles north- east by east from New- York, 52 south of Boston, 52 north- west of Nantucket, 30 by land north-east of Newport. The streets are too narrow for comfort. Three churches for Pres- byterians, three Friends* meeting-houses. Fairhaven was so named from the beauty of its situation. Mr. Rotch, of Nantucket, was the first settler in New Bed- ford, in 1764, and bought the land of a Mr. Russel, hence (as 346 Cmpt Cod^Kandtoich. ■ u the Duke or Bedrord was a Russel) this name of New Bed- ford, by the whim of the proprietor, was sole jted and deter* mined, la 1778 this place was burnt, on 3d of September, by 4,000 British troops under Gray, and property to the amount of S323,266 destroyed. Ni Cape Cod* Sandwich is a township that extends from Cape Cod Bay across the peninsula for five miles to Buzzards Bay, and con- tains streams that have water-power for a cotton, a woollen, and a nail factory , a furnace, and three carding machines. The glass factory is the largest and best in the United States, has 225 workmen, and makes glass to the value of $300,000 yearly. The yards and buildings cover six acres. Two glass nouses, one of 10 and one of eight pots, are in operation, and a cutting shop, a cooper's and blacksmith's shop, to make packages for the ware, and there are others for all the pur- poses required ; two vessels also to bring and take the materials used and exported. A rail-road and a canal ex- tend from the wharf to the factory. Of raw materials used annually, are 600 tons of sand from Mauric River, New Jer- aey, 700,000 pounds? red lead, 450,000 of pearlash, 70,000 of saltpetre. There is consumed 1,100 cords pine and 700 of oak wood ; 100,000 bushels of coal from Pictou, Sydney, and Virginia ; 66 tons hay and straw are used in packing. Order and economy in the use of materials and labor is strict — no loss — a use for all ; the fire for the steam engine is made from the chips and refuse coal ; tli^e heat is conveyed in iron pipes, under pans filled with sea water, and thus evaporates water and makes 10 bushels of salt a day ; all the ashes is bleached and the lye boiled down to potash, thus saving what others lose or throw away. The glass made her(^ is equal, in the clearness and beauty of shape, to the beat in Europe. There are 60 houses for the workmen and their families, 1,000 in number. The large and various ponds afford fine fishing and fowling, and deer are to be had by shooting ; and this, and its neigh- bor Barnstable, for rural sports are celebrated. The harbor is good. There are 13 sail of coasters, fishing vessels, &c. A ship canal, if made over the level route, a mere step trom Buzzards Ba to Massachusetts Bay, for sea vessels to pass i Barmlable-'BrcwiUr^ Chatham-- Vmnist S(C» 347 the through, will save 200 to 300 milot of the most dangeroui coait navigation on the coast of the United Statei, around Nantucket shoals and Cape God. BarnstabUf at Sandy Neck, on the north side, has a good bay and harbor for vessels of eight feet drafl; and Hyannis, on the south side, six miles distant, is also good, but the breakwater now being made, will render it safe from all winds. In 1779 the manufacture of salt began here — it then sold for $6 a bushel ; 2,200 hogsheads of salt are made in a year by solar evaporation. This town has 50 coasting ves- sels, many ponds and extensive salt marshes — population, 4,000—65 miles from Boston, 30 from Plymoath. ^ Breioster, 16 miles ea8t-by>north of Barnstable, and six north of Chatham, has eight fishing and coasting vessels, makes 400 hogsheads of salt, and 300 barrels of Glauber and £psorn. From three ponds, covering 1,000 acres, is a stream of water, on which is a cotton, carding, and other umall mills, machine shops, &C. Chatham, on the south side or elbow of the cape, has a good harbor at Pleasant Bay, and 60 sail of coasting and fishing vessels — makes 2,300 hogsheads of salt. Dennis, eight miles east of Barnstable, has 7,000 tons of shipping in the fishing and coasting trade. Bass River and Eond gives a small water-power ; ^,000 bushels of salt, 500 arrels of Epsom are made yearly. Scurgo Hill is the high- est in the county — extensive' salt meadows. Falmouthf or the Vineyard Town, is a pleasant town, six miles north of Holmes' Hole, or Martha's Vineyard ; has seven whale ships and 40 sail of coasters and fishers, and 40 ponds, and some water power, a woolen factory, two carding machines. Yarmouth has 75 sail of fishers and coasters, makes 7,500 hogsheads of salt and 800 barrels of Glauber and Epsom. Bass River, the outlet of several ponds, gives a small water power. Barnstable Bank, $150,000 capital; 72 miles south- east of Boston. Pleasant Bay and Islands is just north of or below the dhow of Cape Cod ; between that and Chatham Beach, a long narrow heap of sand, as is Cape Malabar, that juts out for 10 miles to the south-west towards Nantucket, forming, with the coast around, the elbow, a break- water for 20 or 30 miles, to receive the furious assaults of the surges and tides of the ocean. n I i 343 PltOMant Bay, Between Pleasant 'Uy on the south-east* and Welifleet Bay on the north-west, or sheltered side of the cape, and on the ridge winding to the north-east, is the public road, lead- iog through Orleans to Eastham, Welljket. Truro, Province- town, and Cape Cod And Harbor; passing over the narrowest parts of the cape, and enjoying in the most perfect manner the wild coast view, the raging billows bursting in near prox- imity, and the deep, fine yellow sands, the sport of the whirl- ing winds and gales, assuming the most fantastic, singular features, even productive of admiration, amusement, and comparison to the snow wreaths of winter, or hills, valleys, or plains ; the hills rise to 200 feet, commanding a field ot' vision of land and water to the utmost extent ; in form they are elegant, round, destitute of any richer verdure than the beach grass, or the whortleberry bushes, or small stunted oaks, yet they captivate the eye by the naked gracefulness of their rough, wild, pointed summits. Cape Cod houses are of one story, with four rooms on the lower floor ; shingled on the sides and roofs ; the chimney in the middle, in rear of the Oont door, that has two windows at each side ; there are also two larger and two smaller in the gable end ; the general aspect is tidy ; the appendages neat, denoting comfort ; in some instances the houses are placed on wooden blocks; the cellars circular or cistern* formed, of bricks, to resist the inroad of the sand. Much of the road from Yarmouth to Orleans is hilly or disagreeable, with a lean soil; the forests low, unthrifty, ex- tending for three miles in Dennis, but admitting, at times, views of the bay, to engage the attention of the traveler. On the entire salt-evaporating region of Barnstable County, from Sandwich to Provincetown, are 136 works, with an area surface of 1,213,138 square feet, yielding 40,438 bushels o( salt, 181,969 pounds of Glauber ; a trifling yield compared to the vast amount of the saltworks in Syracuse, New- York. (See page 102.) Harwich is on an easy declivity towards the south, over- looking a number of large and small lakes between it and Chatham. Pocket Neck and Pocket Island, in Pleasant Bay, are in the township of Orleans, where 12 to 15 bushels of maize, and eight of rye, are an average crop. Old men and boys do the field work: the young and active middle-aged do the fishing ; wood is scarce and dear, and peal is used alto as ll•^ Truro — Welljleet—Ilace Point, 349 iuel. The granite rucks are not seen beyond this vicinity on the cape. From Orleans to Provincetown is 30 miles. On the road to Easthara, diverging from the road towards the bay on the west, is seen a large, frightful, sandy waste, where the sur- face of 1,000 acres has been blown away to the depth of 10 feet, the beach grass that fdrmerly protected it having been destroyed by cattle ; nothing can be more desolate, abandon- ed, or sterile than this idea of an African Nubian desert. At Eastham is a perfect plain, with a view on the narrow peninsula, of the bay on the west, and the ocean to the east, both magnificent, and seemingly prepared to swallow up the narrow, intrusive, insignificant strip of land of only three miles in width; the sterile soil, large, common, unen- closed fields increase for six miles, succeeded by a dwarf forest of oaks and pines, that lasts to Wellfleet and Truro, at first over a high level surface, then, in u few miles, hills and ralleys, with a tract of 200 acres of good land ; snug houses, with fences and apple orchards, sheltered by a pro- tecting grove of locust or cherry trees, occur occasionally in valleys environed by hills of a size to give the aid sought from the sea exposure. Truro and Wellfleet, though on the westerly side of the peninsula near the harbors, are also in valleys, and enjoy a better soil, with more immunity from violent winds. The Clay Pounds are a vast body of clay or marl in the midst of the sand hills. Pamet, the Indian name of Truro, is on the wris^ of Cape Cod ; Provincetown is on the thumb; Wellfleet is a famous place for good oysters, also for catching gulls by torch light, and if common report is true, also for a prolific manufacture of twins and trios in the family way ; it is 33 miles from Barnstable ; Truro, 41. Truro makes 2,500 hogs- heads of salt, and has 40 to 50 fishing vessels. Race Point is at the northern extremity of Cape Cod, and Provincetown is three miles south, 52 south-east of Boston, 50 north-east of Barnstable, with a safe, deep, land'locked harbor, open to the south-east, and invaluable for the safety and refuge ot coasters, as was first tested in 1620, by the MayJloweVj with its sacred freight of the puritans and pilgrim fathers of New England. 6,000 tons of fishing and 400 of coasting vessels; a whaler or two are owned here; 5,000 hogsheads of salt are made in a year, employing in all, 1,000 men and boys. There is a sperm candle factory, also an 30 I 1 Iff «l 1 ) 3&0 Saerifiee Rock-^Plpmoutht II insurance capital of $50,000; 45,000 quintain of cod and 17,000 barrels of mackerel have enriched this place in one season. That fortunes have been made on this unpromising tract, by zeal, industry, or enterprise properly directed, numeroug instances might be adduced ; let one instance suffice, that of Doane, of Wellfleet, whose estate reached half a million. Fqv thrift, activity, or perseverance, the men of this pe« ninsula are celebrated as navigators or commanders of mer- chant ships; the women for economy, management, and good housewifery. From Sandwich, proceeding north-west to Plymouth^ the settlements in the forest of yellow pines, are few, lonely, and sad ; alternate prevalence of plain and hill; on the chore the scene is wild, even romanac. Sacrifice Rock and Clam Pudding Pond should be inquired for, and visited by curious strangers, as memorable places ; the former frequented by the aborigines in their religious ceremonies; the latter by the early colonists in their festivals or thanksgivings ; the rock that received the feet of the pious, hardy pilgrims on their landing, will of course be eagerly sought out near the shore by every descendant of those venerable progenitors of a great and respectable portion of the American population. The rock is removed from its original site to the centre of the town, to be more prominent. -, Plymouth has about 5,000 inhabitants, three Congrega- tional, one Baptist church, a court house and jail ; is com- pactly built, plain, and not expensive ; the main street runs parallel with the shore on a side hill, irregular, broken by cross streets; the hill faces to the north>east, is one quar- ter of a mile wide, one and a half mile long; the pine plaia is extensive, connected with those east. The cemetery of the first settlers, the first house and well, are all to be seen with emotions of a peculiar character, from the chain of events and causes that have thence ensued. It is 35 miles south-east of Boston, with a spacious but not deep harbor, defended by Gurnet Point, projecting to the south from the Duxberry shore. There are numerous fishing and coasting vessels ; tonnage, 18,000. A large pond, with its rapid outlet or descent, facilitates manufactories of cotton, iron, shovels, rolling, slitting, and oil mills, &c. The Old Colony and Plymouth Banks have each a capital of $100,000. The reminiscences connected with its first settlement or Plymouth- 351 early history, with the last centurial commemoration here in 1820, have affixed upon it the strongest attention or attachments of the eastern people and their descendants. The main road to Boston is through Kingston, Hanover, Weymouth, Quincy, Dorchester, Roxbury ; a road more to the east from Kingston, passes through Duxbury, Marshfield, (the residence of Daniel Webster,) and over the North River, a deep, navigable stream, to Scituate, Cohasset ; thence westerly to Hingham, Weymouth, Quincy, and Boston. This rnad taken in reversed order, from Boston to Plymouth, Sandwich, Barnstable, and the extreme cape, as described, or to Marshfield and Falmouth, on the east of Buzzards Bay, where are yet remaining a few descendants of native Indians on the coast and around the ponds; and pleasant island scenery may be reached with ease in a short time from Bos- ton, or Taunton, or New Bedford. In the town clerk's office of Plymouth are the earliest records ; the original charter in its old box, &c. ,^^'v?- \ I I/-:-.' .'- ... I '-> ,,4.,,'.;v.. ,. r- nt ' t' PART SECOND. - > , 't. t rt • SOVTHERIV ROUTES. Route from New-York to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the Virgnlnia (SpringSt and througrh Georgia and Alahania to New Orleans. Two daily routes offer, first for $3, by steam-boat of the Union Line, between the Battery and Morris-street, at six A. M. to Amboy, and thence by rail-road to Bordentown. Second for $4, by rail-road, through Newark, Elizabethtown, New Brunswick, and Trenton, at eight A. M. and four P. M. By the first route the steam-boats depart from the piers in the Hudson River near the Battery, at six o'clock in the morning in summer, and at seven in the fall and in the cold season ; the other line leaves the foot of Liberty-street at eight o'clock. A busy scene ensues immediately after leaving the dock in New- York, from the crowding of passengers to the office ■window to pay the fare, $3, and to arrange for the seats in the rail cars; on this the comfort and pleasure much depend of a party of ladies or gentlemen, and this should, if possible, be attended to immediately, before or after starting, or even the day previous, at the office in Washington-street, as the hurry and press is at times on this occasion disagreeable. The stranger that is proceeding across the bay and harbor of New-York towards the south and west, will have his at- tention engrossed and enchained by the admiration of the panorama that is presented as he rapidly advances towards the centre of the lake-like expanse of the open bay, and gazes at the admirable features of the marine portion of the picture, embracing a curve of more than twenty miles of shore bounding the amphitheatrical fra^ne of the picture, with the aperture, called the Narrows, between Long Island : .L^J- WT*^;.-. ., _-^_i«.. Rouitfrom New-York to Philadelphia^ SfC. 353 and Staten Island, leading the eye towards the main avenue to the broad Atlantic Ocean and the highway of nations, enlivened, perhaps, at the time by ships of war at anchor or under sail, and the arrival or departure of the finely modeled merchant ship, all in gallant trim, or mayhap the still more novel and impressive sight of the new and stupendous ocean steamers that have united America and Europe into near proximity of social and commercial intercourse, and intro- duced a new and important epoch in the intercourse of dis- tant nations with one another, that is destined to have a weighty and a mighty influence in war or in peace, in civili- zing and in promoting the happiness of the human family. The eye instinctively roams from the fast receding city, its tall spires and clustering taper masts of the shipping that skirt its wharves and shores, up to the broad and noble Hud- son, that leads, past rocky dikes and lofty mountains, to the complete interior of a great State and nation, thus forming a stupendous, deep, natural canal of mure than 150 miles long, and a mile to a half mile in width, that human art and skm could not have effected on such a grand and efficient scale. The light-house on Robin's Reef is erected on the edge of the channel, on the western side, and rises from a ledge of dangerous rocks so near the usual course of steam-boats and ships that many accidents have occured thereby, that will now be avoided. New Brighton is next presented on the north-east point of the island before us, arrayed in all its attractions of architec- tural good taste and eligible position, that commands a capital view of the city and harbor of New-York, its islands, and sweeping and graceful shores. The Pavillion hotel, and the Sailors'* Smig Harbor a mile beyond, are the most imposing edifices that are presented on this shore. The Sailors* Retreat, the Hospitals, and splen- did diV\ pacious erections for Quarantine, are all on the eastern part of the island, and seen to mote advantage by those proceeding to or arriving from sea. The creative feeble efforts of man sink into insignificance when arrayed on shores, where the natural outline compre- hends such massive and sublime features ; nevertheless the islands in the harbor, and their crowning forts, castle, and ramparts for defence, together with the many graceful and imposing architectural erections of the few more recent years, that aaluto the L-ye of the passing stranger ai he urges hia 30* /p 354 Route from New- York to Philadelphia, 5fc, n i\ ( 1 way through the narrow straits between Staten Island and New Jersey, the Kills, are certainly entitled to respectful notice, from the evident and rapid improvement of the taste of the owners of many of the beautiful temples, and palace-like, and pillared, and portico residences that adorn this arm of the sea on either shore, intermixed with the more unpretend- ing yet comfortable abodes and residences of the ^less wealthy portion of the community, The whole face of the island, called, by the first Dutch set- tlers, Stadt, or Staten Island, abounds with beauties and capabilities that are destined sooner or later to bring it be- fore the public as a charming resort of the retired and weal- thy citizens of the great metropolis adjacent; from the many commanding heights and elevations are the finest views towards the interior, and also of an illimitable expanse of ocean, said to be the finest coast views in the United States. We soon draw near Amboy, the place of landing on the south shore of the Raritan River, that here unites with the great bay of that name, and by the transition from steaming by water to that of steaming by land, conveyance is eflfected in a miraculously short time, aided by crosses, puHies, cranes, &c. to lift and arrange the huge masses of trunks or luggage, or, to use the popular American phrase, baggage. Before arriving at the landing-place, at South Amboy, 25 miles from New-York, the spacious bay and estuary of the Raritan expands towards the east, with a view of the Atlan- tic Ocean, and of the light-houses on Sandy Hook, and the highlands of New Jersey, and the shipping entering and de- parting. The route to New Brunswick, 20 miles west, leads up the Raritan River. On arriving at South Amboy, the cars and locos will be found in readiness on the wharf; the ascent soon enters a line of deep cutting through the sand-hills, and continues in a barren and uninteresting region to Hubertsville, Hights- town, Spotswood, and Centrevjlle, 36 miles to Bordentown, on the Delaware River. Although uninviting in its aspect, yet this sterile region has important deposits of marl beneath its surface, which is beginninfT to be used, and is fast improving the lands in this part of New Jersey. Dreary and dull, sandy and poor, is the characteristic of the face of the country in the part of New Jersey pervaded New- York and Philadelphia Rail-road. 355 by the rail-road between South Amboy and Bordentown, on the Delaware, a distance of 36 miles, and occupying from an hour and a half to two hours, that if not enlivened by agree- able society and companionship, will pass heavily and weari- ly, from the tameness and monotony that prevails, and the utter want uf excitement in the proximate objects, until, in reaching the vicinity of the Delaware River at Bordentowo, the extensive grounds and mansion of an ex-king of Spain, of the Napoleon dynasty, forms an eager subject of attention to the curious traveler, and to all reflecting or well informed persons, a striking, instance of the versatility and fluctuating nature of all temporal honors and enjoyments, from the throne of majesty to the simple republican, of retired, unob- trusive, quiet habits, such as Joseph Bonaparte is now said to be, by his friends and neighbors. The further continuation of the passage onward to Phila- delphia is usually effected in the pleasant season of spring and summer, or when the river is open, by steam-boat con- veyance for the remaining distance of 30 miles ; but the line of rail-road that is continued on the immediate bank of the Delaware, for the most part from Bordentown to Camden, opposite Philadelphia, always oflers as a resource in that short period of the winter, when the ice in the Delaware pre- sents an obstacle to the free or safe use of steam-boats. The cars make a pause at the depdt on the banks of the Delaware, and a change of conveyance takes place usually to the steam-boat, down the river to Philadelphia, although the rail-road is continued on the east side of the riverj 28 miles, to Camden. The change in the mode of getting on from Bordentown, for the remaining distance by water of 30 miles, will be grateful, and will, like the part just traveled on the rails, occupy about two hours and a half very agreeably, in passing down the beautiful River Delaware, and past the towns of Burlington and Bristol; at the latter place is the canal leading* on the west side of the river to Easton, and up the Lehigh River to Mauch Chunk coal mines, 106 miles. The entire and direct rail-road route that is now completed between New- York and Philadelphia, via Powles Hook, New- ark, Elizabethtown, Rahvvay, (Woodbridge,) New Brunswick, (Kingston, Princeton,) Trenton, Bristol, and Frankford, pur- suing very nearly the old established revolutionary stago route, avoiding all water or steam-boat transfer from the land, and vice versa, but, in four or five hours, quietly taking M < ( 356 New Jtrsey Rail-road. ■it Up the traveler in one of the principal cities referred to, at either end of the rail-road, and setting him down and trans- planting him in all possible ease and luxury at the opposite extremity, a distance of 94 miles, will undoubtedly be pre- ferred by the majority of timid and careful travelers, to the more circuitous route of circumnavigating Staten Island, and passing over New Jersey and down the Delaware, though, it must be confessed, the difference in point of time between the two routes is by no means great, and, for the sake of novelty and variety, both will no doubt be frequented and receive a fair trial from the impartial traveler. The first or six o'clock line of passengers from New- York will arrive at Philadelphia at three o'clock P. M. by the steam boat. By the second oute from New-York to Philadelphia, lead- ing by rail-road through Newark, Elizabethtbwn, and New Brunswick, passage is taken at the office at the foot of Liber- ty-street, New- York, departing at eight A. M . nnd four P. M. (and for Newark and New Brunswick, at various hours in the day, as may always be ascertained,) and passing very nearly along the line of the old post-road, more in the interior of the ^ ate than the first route, and reaching Philadelphia at an early hour in the afternoon, fare, ^4. The New Jersey Rail-road^ incorporated in 1832, with a capital of $750,000, extends from the Hudson River opposite Courtlandt-streel, New- York, through Newark, Elizabelh- town, Woodbridge, Rahway, New )ilrunswick, to Trenton, (and thence to Philadelphia by another charter. ) Two and a half miles from Jersey City is the branch leading to the manufacturing town of PatersoUf and the remarkable Falli of the Passaic. After passing over the embankment soon after starting, the deep rock excavation on Bergen Ridge will be noticed, as having caused a great amount of labor and expense ; and as belonging to the same range that, extending north, forms, for 20 miles, the imposing rampart on the west bank of the Hudson, called the Palisades. On passing through the deep rock-cut and emerging from the ridge, a striking view is presented of the low lands bordering the Hackensack River, and the city of Newark, with its clustered spires and houses, aT d a back ground of hills and mountains. After passing the mradows and the Hackensack and Passaic Rivers, on a via- duct, the road rounds to the south, and skirts along the city, Ntw Jersey Rail-road, 357 with a branch leading up to the main street. The Morris Canalj (that extends through this State, and passing north- ward as far as Patterson, there winds around the ridge and assumes a south-westerly direction to its termination at the Delaware, opposite Easton in Pennsylvania,) here has its eastern descent into this city by an inclined plane, that raises and depresses boats by iron chains and rollers, over a slope, from the hill above to the level below, of 60 feet, and by locks into the Passaic River. The canal winds northerly to Paterson 12 miles, thence westerly, across Morris County, for 30 miles, and receiving its feeder from the Hopatung Lakey 900 feet above tide, it de- scends, by the vale of the Musconetung to the south-wsst, for 60 miles, to Easton on the Delaware. It is 32 feet wide at top and 18 at bottom, and four deep; rise and fall 1,657 feet ; has 24 locks of a rise or fall, total of 223 feet, and 23 inclined plains as above, in the aggregate of 1,334 feet ; cost, about $2,000,000. It has 200 bridges, 12 aqueducts, five dams, 30 culverts, four guard locks ; began in 1825 ; finished in 1835. The rail-road to Morristown, 32 miles, begins at the rail- road bridge, and pervades Centre and Broad-streets, and winds through the gorges and vales in Orange, Springfield, &c, and is a pleasant route — fare, $1. Newark has 70 or 80 flourishing manufacturing establish'- ments of boots, shoes, carriages, jewelry, hats, leather in all branches, harness, &c. and plating in silver and brass, and an active population of 20,000 souls, 20 churches, and many hotels, &c. four banks, and insurance companies, and 2,500 houses, 150 stores, groceries, &c.; value of exports, $8,000,000. It has ships in the whaling trade, and the Lehigh coal trade passes through it on the canal, and steam-boats and rail- road cars ply frequently to the city of New York. The passenger next arrives at Eliza^eihtown in six, Rah- way in five, and New Brunswick in 12 miles ; and those who have in times past been obliged to crawl along at a snail's pace on this thoroughfare, with the mud up to the axles of the stage, will now proceed on their way here, rejoicing at improved velocity on the iron tracks and iron wheels beneath them, aa forming a very agreeable contrast with the former means of conveyance. • ■ ^ , , New Brunswick has 600 houses, 6,000 inhabitants, seven churches, two banks, 8 or 12 hotels, and over 100 stores, and J>v ' us New Brumwick—Princeton, (f ! is situated at the head of Rteam.boat navigation on the Karitan River, and is also the seat of Rutgers' Coll''gt and school, under the patronage of the Reformed Dutch Church; and iiere also commences the Delaware and Rariian Canal, that extends to Bordentown on the Delaware ; it is 42 miles in length, has 14 locks, and 116 feet of lockage. Locks 110 feet long, 24 wide, and navigable lor schooners and sloops, and has been very beneficial in its operation, and saves the exposure and risk of a circuitous coast navigation of several hundred miles, and, in connection with the Chesapeake and Delaware, and Dismal Swamp Canals, and Long Island Sound, and the Bay of Chesapeake, and River Delaware, forms a line of safe interior trade from Providence and New- port, Rhode Island, to Norfolk, Virginia, and to the waters of Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds, on the coast of North Carolina, within Cape Hatteras, excepting a short sea ex- posure round Point Judith. The water to supply this canal is taken from the River Delaware at Bull's Island, and is conducted for 23 miles on the east side of the river to the main canal at Trenton. The cost of the canal, feeder, &c. was about $2,000,000. Princeton is the seat of a college, (Nassau Hall,) and of a Theological Seminary, both of great celebrity, and, from its elevation and healthy position, is much resorted to as a place of education. A battle was fought near Stony Brook in thii vicinity, during the revolution, between the American forces under General Washington, and those of the British; an- other action, in 1776, was also fought at and near Trenton, in which General Washington was again the assailant, and succeeded in capturing several hundred men. The raiUroad from Trenton southerly, begins at Morrisville, on the west side of the noble bridge over the Delaware, and passing through Tullytown, Bristol, and Frankford, near the bank* of the river, forms a beautiful ride for 26 miles, along a most fertile portion of Pennsylvania, and enters the city of Philadelpliia, , ^ through the northern liberties. The most fashionable hotels are in Chestnut-street, between seventh and eighth, and in Third-street and adjacent. Sanderson's, in Fourth-Btrcet, is an airy, capital house. The Exthange is a chaste and ad< 359 ig-room, fficeg for for the k- street, Df Ponn- together 1 States ', are re- iire, that e dwelU commo- igement Itituting floor, in Itablish- )oyance ^vident ^n and !|g from ^instant Third- le, that «or one •■ in the cidcdly eet, be- deserv- a waits free of ire are quarter ly Ben- I to the ' whom 1 f t:j )?; m i/S^&> ^^ mVv tM m _j^B TmJDm' >j\ \ a m^^B \J Ifr- X V J/i ; 1 nA 7^ A// -f^A*.^ • ^vx^ vi Oj/^ \| "^ I 1 I' I ' 3M is situate] Ran tan school, ui and here that extei in length J feet long, and has [k exposure ^ hundred ni Delaware,; Sound, anj forms a lini port, Rhodi of Albeinat Carolina, i posure roui is taken fr conducted main canal was about $ Princeto?, Theologica elevation ai of educatiol vicinity, du under Geni other Actior which Gen succeeded i from Trent side of the through Tu of the river fertile porti W: vlJJ.U. •4, through th( are in Chesj Third-street an airy, capi ' '^»- -'--'H*fc'V-' ££:-.-i.- PkUadtlphia. 3fi0 mired edifice, and comprises the Post Office, a reading-room, ' to which strangers are freely admitted, and suit of offices for insurance companies, brokers, &c. the great room for the merchants is on the second floor, and facing Dock- street, and opposite is the elegant building of the Bank of Pcnn- s)'lvania, also constructed of white marble. These, together with that exquisitely-modelled edifice, the United States Bank, and most of the public buildings in this city, are re- markable for a pure and chaste style of architecture, that also pervades the general appearance of the private dwell- ings, denoting neatness, comfort, and wealth. Sanderson^ s Hotel, in Fourth-street, for extent of accommo- dation, salubrity of the situation, and the quiet arrangement and improvements made by Mr. Sanderson, in substituting speaking tubes to the regular domestics on each floor, in lieu of the noisy gongs and bells that in most large establish- ments of that nature are a great and unceasing annoyance to travelers, are in this entirely omitted, and the self-evident change for the better in this instance is at once seen and noticed, as the mouths of the trumpet-tubes proceeding from the desk of the clerk or overseer, are all under his instant control and hearing. There are numerous other hotels in Chestnut-street, Third- street, and other parts of the city, of an inferior grade, that charge from two dollars down to a dollar and a half, or one dollar a day ; but, on trial of the most noted house in the highest repute, fashion, and notoriety, we prefer decidedly the Merchants' Hotel of Mr. Sanderson, in Fourth- street, be- tween Third and Arc}) ; this is the most recent and deserv- ediy popular establishment ; his baggage-cart always awaits the arrival of the cars and boats, and takes charge, free of expense, of trunks desluied for his hptel. •s. •U^i ^*i V: Phi«es to be visited. The United States Mint, in Chestnut-street, where are coined the silver half doUars and gold half and quarter eagles of the United Stales, is highly interesting. The Philadelphia Library, in Fifth-street, founded by Ben- [ jamin Franklin, contains 50,000 volumes, and is open to the public at one o'clock P. M. and free to strangers, to whom every polite attention is extended by the Librarian. ■inr imwi ^^ f V ^W U'^ Vs.-'. 'V| ■■ *'i ■ ^r; fg M k'' i^ ■M m m P ■limff wmmmmn'^ mmmmmmmm 360 Pimde^& \ '•: The Atheneum is also an institution that duos much honui to its founders and supporters, and here the savans and liter- ary men of this literary and quiet city may usually be found, and like its prototype opposite, the noble library, it abounds with a copious supply of booKs of reference, periodicals, &c. that enables the stranger or man of business to lounge away a leisure hour or two in the most agreeable manner. The luxury of bookSf enjoyed, as they may be here, at the fountain head, constitutes one of the highest and most de- lightful attractions of any place, and, together with the refined society of this metropolis, renders it a pleasant abode to en- lightened strangers and men of science. While lingering in this vicinity, it may be well to remind the stranger that he is in the midst of places rendered inte- resting to an American by historical associations. The Stale House near by contains the room in which the Congress pro- mulgated the Declaration of Independence in 1776, and where their sessions were held for several years. The square in the rear, or south of the State House, is well laid out and adorned with forest trees, as are the other squares in differ- ent parts of the city. The Pennsylvania Hospital is an excellent institution, founded by the venerable Penn, whose statue in bronze is in the court yard in front; the building in the rear contains the large and beautiful painting by West, of Christ healing the sick, and presented by him to this Hospital, as a memorial of his attachment to his native country and the city of his early residence. Other charitable institutions also abound here, such as alms houses for the city poor, and asylums for the blind and deaf and dumb, for orphans and widows, and for the Friends. The first is a very ( itensive building on the Schuylkill River, near the permanent bridge and the United States Naval Hospital. •; ^ The lectures that are delivered at the medical schools by the most eminent professors, and at the Franklin Insiitnie^ deservedly attract hither a large number of students in the winter season. The .Academy of Natural Sciences^ and the American Phi- loaophical Society, established in this city, enrol among their members many distinguished men, and have both published several volumes of transactions. There arie three or four theatres, a hall for concerts bs- ■R Philadelphia, 361 longing to the Musical Fund Socieiyt a Mcuonic HaU^ and the Academy of ArtSj that contains some good paintings, gtatuarj, cameos, &c. and several private galleries exist also in this city. The Chinese Gallery is of all others the most unique, rare, curious, and valuable. There is also a House of Refuge for Juvenile Delinquents, and a splendid State Penite^iliary a short distance from the northerly part of the city, on the plan peculiar to Pennsylva- nia, and matured by some of her amiable citizens, the princi- pal feature being confinement in single ceils, and exclu« sion from all knowledge of or association with other criminals during the term of their sentence. The United Stales Na^iy Yard in Southwark, and the iVii- val Hospital^ Almshouse, and Arsenal, on the Schuylkill, and the ingenious yet simple machinery by which this city is copiously supplied with water. by the works at Fair Mount,* are worthy of a ride to visit, and, together with the Peniten- tiary and the Girard College, with the House of Refujje, in Francisville, on the ridge roHd, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum in Broad, near Pine-street, may all bo comprised in the same excursion ; and if it is t-xtended to the viaduct over the Schuylkill, and the inclined plane at the Cnlumbi.i Rail- road, or a visit to German i own, the remains of Bartrani's and PratVs Gardens^ the unrivalled scenery of the Schuylkill^ it will not leave any thing on the stranger's part to regret as unfinished in the environs. In the city, Peate's Muneum, in the arcade in Chestnut- street, the shot towers, the city markets, the scientific lectures, the book and map establishments, public scliools,di.spensarie9, churches, Friends' Meeting in Arch-street, grave of Frank- lin, srientiBc instituiiuns, libraries, post o)Kce, and exchange, the banks, and bridges over the Schuylkill, should all receive a timely visit. The new hall of the Academy of Natural Sciences is a fire proof building-, 45 feet front by 85 feet deep, containing an Hi ;■'■*'! it- 1 it i * The watftr-powor acquired by a dam across the Schuylkill of seven feet in height, gives motion to wheels in the stone house adjoiiiinjr, by which a lieavy column of water is propelled up the hill, and supplies constantly six large reservoirs, of fourniillions of gallons each, en the summit, from whence iron pipes descend into, and branch under every street in the city. 40 miles of pipe are laid, and 8,000,000 of gallons can be supplied in a day. This is considered a chef d'ceuvre of its kind. 31 ; W.,i. la- ■.. - t' .if?' t ( 362 . PhiUsdelphia.' ' ample saloon, with ranges of galleries ; in the baiement is a lecture-room capable of receiving 500 persons. Mr. Maclure, the geologist, was the principal benefactor to this institution, having given $20,000, besides an invaluable library, with many specimens in natural history. There are 13 Episcopal, 16 Presbyterian, tour Dutch Re- formed, iivaRoman Catholic, five Baptist, 10 Methodist, and three Lutheran Churches, one Synagogue, one Unitarian and one Moravian church, and several others in the city and liber- ties, and in the suburbs. Twelve principal hotels and numerous boarding houses. Philadelphia ranks as the second city in the Union in popu- lation, and the first in regularity and beauty. The streets are laid out parallel with the two rivers from north to soutli, and crossed by others at right angles from east to west. Water- street is nearest to the river, and directly in rear of the stores that face the Delaware, then comes Front-street, ex- tending three or four miles, parallel with the river; then Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, Ninth, Tenth, Eleventh, Twelfth, Thirteenth, then Broad-street, that, as being the central street between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, is of uncommon width, and contains the rail-road leading to Wilmington and Baltimore, and to the Susquehannah River, 82 miles to Columbia, 100 to Harris- burgh, (see index,) and also to the N&vy Yard in South- wark, and thence along Swanton-street to the public land- ing, to near Cedar or South-street, and a branch goes east down High-street, by the side of the market, extending eight sq tares in length, and at the bottom of which is the ferry across the Delaware to Camden, in New Jersey, and the rail-road lending to Amboy and New- York. The next street south of High, or Market-street, and running west to the Schuylkill, is Chestnut-street, at which landing the east- ern and southern lines of steam-boats congregate ; the next streets are Walnut, Spruce, Pine, and Cedar, all from river to river; — north of Market or High-street is Filbert; then Mulberry or Arch-street, Cherry-street, Sassafras or Race- streets; then Vi'ie; then follows the jurisdiction of city called the Norlliern Liberties, containing Wood- street. Callow- hill-street; then Willow and James-streets, through which is a rail-road to the Lahigh coal dock, and connecting the rails leai^'ng to Trenton, through Front and Maiden-streets, and Frankfort road, and also through North Ninlh-streer, with Philadelphia. \ "^f the rails leading to Gtrniantown and Norristown ; thus in> tersccting the city in the most convenient manner with rail-road communication. Viewing the markets in High- street as the centre of the city, all the great streets leading from it to the norlk are therefore called North Front, North ijecond, and so on up to Thirteenth, and all the streets lead- ing south from Hi<:h-slreet ore called South Front, South Second, and so on to Thirteenth. There are, besides the fore- going, a multitude of interior or second-rate streets, courts,* lanes, alleys, &c. Five noble public squares, viz. Penn in the centre, intersect- ed by Broad and High-streets; Franklin to the north-east, and Logan to the north-west, between Vine and HHce*streeif); Riltenhonse to the south-west, and Washington to the south- east, between Walnut and Spruce- streets, and Independence in the rear of the Slate House, between Chestnut and Walnut- streets, and the open grour.ds around the Pennsylvania Hos- pital, and in other places, constitute very agreeable features in the general aspect of this city. h. terrace, or promenade, on the banks of the Delaware, is only wanting to perfect the flymmetrical plan; and this, it is hoped, wdl be realized eventually through the munificent bequest of Mr. Girard. The population of the city is about 220,000, comprised in a circle of seven miles, and with room for expansion ; its in- habitants are wealthy, prosperous, and enterprising ; peacea- ble in their habits, and attached to order and regularity ia society, which renders it a desirable home to strangers, and a saf ! and permanent residence to those who are unwilling to behold their ancient domains violated by the ruthless and relentless hands of modern corporations. A ride of half a day around the city of Philadelphia and its immediate vicinity, within five or 10 miles to the west and north, but more particularly to view the banks of the Schuyl- kill, its elegant bridges, viaducts, gardens, and promenades, dep6ts, and the lovely views of and from Fairmount Hill of the reservoir, the water-works, the simple, yet grand and eflficient machinery and constructions, that are hv re brought to bear with such uncommon beauty and skill, to supply the want.s of a great metropolis, for its needful supply of water for all the purposes of life, cannot be too much admired and appreciated. ■ 1 ' ^^1 BF In IH IB -Si 11 B H ■ 11 ■-• 11 >¥• * lu Letitla Court if, of was, a bouse inhabited by William Penn. I t % Girard College—Laurel Hill Cemetery. The large Penitentiary of Pennsylvania, with its gloomy and massive walls and castellated structures, arrest the at* tention, and require, and will repay the time consumed in the interior examination. The walls, that are 30 feet high, enclose 30 acres of ground. The GiRARo College, n short distance from the water- works of Fair Mount, and the last-n ntioned building, offers a pleasing contrast both in the elegance and beauty of the various edifices, and the liberal and humane plan, objects, and endowment of the founder, that will perpetuate his name as one of the noblest benefactors ot* the human race. Founded for the support and education of a large number of orphan boys, the various edifices are adapted for both dormitories, Ptudying, and public rooms, and have the mo> dern improvements in every department. The entrance to the spacious grounds is on the east, from the Germantown road. The main building is of the purest style of Grecian architecture, and is of while marble from quarries in Stockbridge, Massachusetts. The colonnade on the eastern front has pillars of most imposing dimensions, 72 feet in height, and eight feel in di- ameter, of the Corinthian order, with capitals of exquisite workmanship. The Laurel Hill Cemttery, on a lofty promontory on the banks of the Schuylkill, promises to be one of the loveliest retreats and of public resorts to all strangers and travelers of taste. Passing a gateway of most imposing structure, is seen on entrance a group in free- stone of Old Mortality chiseling an inscription, with 8cott, the imaginary creator of the Action, leaning on a tomb, as an auxiliary. Ti>e tenden- cy to associate the visits of the living to the resting-places of the departed "more with our pleasures than our duties," as here evinced, or at Mount Auburn near Boston, or Green- wood Cemetery, near Brooklyn and New- York, and the one near Baltimore, is most commendable. This well-chosen spot is deeply shaded with aged forest trees ^ the views amid the undulations, or winding of the drive or pathway, through the shady, sombre glades or dells, are full of sweetness, stillness, or repose; the quiet, dark, mirror-surface of the river, with the drooping branches of the shrubbery and forest trailing in its hushed current, is all in keeping with the seclusion here sou|;ht. ,« ,»,•"?» .■>!.■ f/U^i •< - f, ,i:s . ■■if,* Rail-road from Philadelphia to Reading. 365 Kail-Koad from Pliiladclpliia to Read- iiigr, and the Coal JUines in Schuylkill County. This is a new and elegant route, with (?oine original and uncommon features ; the scenery of the Schuylkill, the tun- nel, and the bridge, and the approach and entrance to Read- ing, arc in the highest degree gratifying, and the accommo> datious for travelers are satisfactory. The extension of this road from Reading to Pottsville, 37 miles, completes the en- tire route of 96 miles to the anthracite coul region of Schuyl- kill County. From Reading to the Delaware is 69 miles. The important items on this road are easy grades and long tunneling; the grades are IS feet to the mile, as tho highest down to 11 feet and one foot. The road for five miles from Reading, where it winds round the hase of the Never Sink Mountain, is heavy and expensive, on a narrow ledge cut from the solid rock at the foot of a lufty hill. The Black Rock Tunnel^ the longest in the United States, cuts ofl'a bend of the river three miles round. It is 1,932 feet long, cut through solid blue slate rock, 19 feet wide and 17 feet high. It was worked from the ends and from five vertical shafts, one of which was 140 feet from the surface of the ground to grade of tunnel ; it cost $150,000. It is one mile above Phoenixville. On the same line with this tunnel, and immtidiately adjoin- ing it, is a beautiful stone bridge across the Schuylkill, with four arches of 72 feet span and 16^ feet rise, each built of cut sand-stone. At Flat Rock, one mile above Manyunk, is another tunnel of 960 feet long, through solid gncis rock : surface of road, 21 feet wide on embankments, and 25 feet in cuts, with side ditches in the latter, one and a half feet deep; its side slopes are one and a half base to one rise, on embankments; one to one in earth, and one third to one in rock cuts. In the wood work of bridges, Irvin's lattice for spans over 40 feet — Hnills or sleepers, three fee' one and a half inches apart from centre to centre; rail three and a quarter inches high ; its upper surface two and a r": u 366 Rail-road from Philadelphia to Reading, \ II quarter inches, and lower three and a quarter inches wide, with a stem | inch thick ; it is rolled in lengths of 18 feet nine inches, and weighs 45 pounds per linear yard. The sill is seven feet long, and seven by eight inches square, laid on its flat side. The joints of the rails fit into a cast-iron chair, shaped to receive exactly the whole of the under surface, and one side of the end of each rail, that is furnished with a bolt-hole through which, and one in the chair, a screw-bolt passes, nut* ted on the inside, with a true and level joint, and securing the ends of the rails firmly to the chair. Between the ends, the rail is fastened to the sills by a bill-headed half pound spike, that clamps the rail down to a quarter of an inch notch cut in the sill, no intermediate chairs being used as with most other solid rails. Under every sill, except in rock cuts, a trench eight feet long is dug and filled to the depth of 14 inches with broken stone, well rammed in three separate layers. ,..^ . .■;>;?•„ •.•,-•,> ■ \ This is one of the best constructed rail-ways in the United States, and therefore is more minutely described. When the unevenness of thecountry through which the road passes, and the sudden bends of the River Schuylkill are con- sidered, its curves arc light; 819 teer and 1,480 struck with the radius, others from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. The cost of this road, with dep6t8, tunnels, and a double track of edge rails, is $45,000 per mile. The engineers were Moncure and Wirt Robinson. This rail-way at Pottsville unites with the Mount Carbon rail-road and Danville and Pottsville, and in half a mile with the. Mill Creek and Schuylkill valley rail-roads, and in four and a half miles west the Mine Hill and Schuylkill Haven rail-roads ; ond at Port Clinton, 15 miles from Pottsville, with the Little Schuylkill Rail-road ; by this road the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company can send their coal to the Reading Rail-road ; -md the coal from all the above mines brought in cars to the Delaware River, at Philadelphia, at 63 cents ex- pense per ton less than via canal, and with less waste and in much better order. \ The capital stock is . . . . $2,000,000 Loan in England at five per cent. . . 2,000,000 Total, $4,000,000 Two millions of tons of coal may be passed annually, at a ( . ' ' -lajfe" SehuyUcill Canal, 367 locomotive expense at 17 to 23 cents per ton ; other expen- ses, 50 cents per ton. From the mines the line varies from a Itnd to a descent of 19 feet per mile, and a slight ascent near its termination. The Schuylkill navigation and canal extends from the dam at Fairmount, near Philadel|thia, to Port Carbon, on the Schuylkill, 168 mileH, bein^ a scries of dams and pools; the first pool above the Fairmounl dam is entered l)y a canal opposite the water-works, and is six miles to Flat Bock ; thence in one and a half miles, the Manyunk Canal connects with and rejoins the stream, and enters the second pool. This lasts four miles, a small canal linking it to a third pool ; in three miles a small link of a canal reaches the pool abovo Norristown ; thence by short canals and pools to the Oaks Canal, three and a half miles long, that begins half a mile above Perkiamen Creek, and by the north or left side of the river to a dam one mile and a half above Phoenixville, there entering' the river. The next pool is five miles long, reaching to the Vincent Canal ; one mile above begins the Girard Ca- nal, 22 miles long, on the right or south side of the river to Pigeon Creek, five miles from Reading, that is reached by a short canal and two dams. From Reading to Hamburgh is the canal of Hamburgh, 10 miles long, and one of three miles, and a series of short canals usually on the left or north bank, and also to the end at Fort Carbon. Canals 27 ; making 58 miles; pools and dams 34; making 50 miles; canals 36 feet wide at top, 23 at bottom, three feet six inches deep, 117 locks,SOhy 17 feet*, a tunnel of 385 feet; total rise, 610 feet; nearly all are double locks. Capital stock, originally 33,312 shares, at $50; now increased by loans, &c. to the value of $3,531,644; present market price of each share, S'50. The interest on the stock and loans is $201,049 ; other expenses, repairs, wages, fee. ^121,246; total, ^322,296; needing a transmit of 732,400 tons of coal, at 50 cents per ton, to meet the amount. The freight at present charged on this canal is, for a ton of coal, $1 28, and other expenses at landings, labor, wastage, screenage, wharves, $1 03; the canal toll is 92 cents per ton; total, $3 23i. ■MVi' ■ A new and short three days' route from Philadelphia to JVTieel- ing or PittsburjBr, on the Ohio River, can be made by following the great State Kail-road leading to Lancaster, and then taking the branch ex- tending to Harrisburg ; and thence crossing the River Susquchannah by a splendid viaduct and rail-road bridge of a mile in length, and proceed- M ♦l- 368 Philadelphia to Chamber thurgh^ SfC. 1 1 '' ing oil by rniUroad to CarlitUt 18 niilos, and toClinmborfllMir|ih,3:2 railop, niukinff 150 miles from Pliiladolpliin ; usuidly run in ubout 10 or 13 houm, and advancing the impntiont truvolor so fur very rupidly towards hia woMlorn point. More tlie rpguliir sta^on for VVIieeling tal • l|« i *''! t'M ''■''/■. iJi t--. 'k- ♦ ' : tMf. i;i. ^■■''^ 5'. *i 1 1 i 1 %? I i^ 1 11 370 Philadelphia and Columbia Rail-road. their ulterior objects the attraction of the commerce of the States bordering; on the Oiiio, tho MieslMsippi, and tho lakes, to their rettpcctive commercial emporiums, New-Yoi k, Phila- delphia, and Baltimore. The Stale of Pennsylvania lias put forth her energies to attain it, and has alrcaily 75U miles o( public improvements, conyistnig of G30 of canals and slack water navigation, and 120 miles uf rail-ways, the whole coi-t- ing $32,000,000, besides other canals, &c. by joint stock companies. Philadelphia and Columbia Rail-road. The Philadelphia passengers having previously made their arrangenionts at the oflices of the Company, will be called for at the proper hour by an omnibus, and taken to iho place of general assemblage of all these going in the train, at the dep6t in Broad- street ; the usual hours are early in the morn- ing, and at different intervals during the day. All being in readiness, the train commences its progress, and passes through ihe suburbs of tho city in a north-west direction, past the water-works, and along tho lovely banks of the Schuylkill for three miles, just below Peter's Island, where ihe viaduct* crosses the Schuylkill to the west bank. The hasty glimpse gained of the river in passing over this viaduct, that is 1,045 feet long, 41 wide, and 38 nbove the surface ot the water, induces the traveler to long for its further ac- quaintance; but onward is the word, and the cars having arrived at the foot of the inclined plane, that is 2,805 feet in length, and the great endless cable of nine inches in circum- ference— (cost $2,800, weight eight tons,) that is connected at the top of the plane by machinery managed by steam power, and that is prevented from trailing along the ground by resting upon iron wheels liiaiL revolve in iron sockets— *TIii8 is of wood, four distinct trusses of arch pieces, king posts, and braces — Burr's plini inodiAed ; width 49 feel ciglit inches; three separate passages; two of 18 and a half feet in the clear; one for loot, of fuiir feet; one of the foruior being for the rail-way, one for common car- ringes ; seven spans; their lengths in the clenr, between piers, are two ofi'ii feet each, three of 135, two of 137 feet; the eastern abutment and Eiers are solid rock, tie others on hnnl gravel; masonry in courses, aramer-dressed ; bridge floor, 38 feet above the usual water lius. Coit, including painting, $133,946. Seing only 35 foot |»er mile. The fVett PhUa- nielphia rail-way «t'eight miles long, witli 57 feet per niiio grade, will aUo obviuto the first inclined phne, at .57 to 43 to the Schuyikiil; also the Valley and Norristown route of 331 miles, only adding two and oue«ighth wilefito the dUtouce ; the grade tieing 3t) to 37i feet ixer niiie. 3^4 I mm 374 Canal along the Susquehannah. 13 miles off to the west ; from thence is a rail-road to Balti< more, 65 miles. (Seepage .) If the traveler is not in a hurry to get on, he may linger a few hours in this place very pleas- antly — cross the bridge of a mile in length — sketch the scene- ry, embracing many little rocky islets in the river, and rocky ledges, and the banks of the river bounded in the distance by spurs of the mountuin ridges jutting in the stream. Immense quantities of lumber, boards, &c. are hero de- posited on the banks of the river, waiting for a market at Baltimore. ^ Caeial along: the liusqueliannah. The transfer of persons, baggage, and Affreights, &c. from the rail-road to the canal boats, and vice versa, here take* place, and those who do not end their jaunt here, as many citizens do in the warm season, must prepare for an entire new change of scene and of the style of traveling for the next 70 or 80 hours, until they arrive at Pittsburgh. Entering into a canal boat that proceeds up the eastern side of the river, where in many places a scanty room has been boldly scooped out of the sleep and rocky hill side for the passage of the canal, while on the other the river glides in close contact, and so continues for 28 miles to Harris- burgh, passing Marietta in three miles from Columbia, Bainbridge in 8i.\ and a half, Falmouth three and a half, and arriving at Middletown in four and a half, at the mouth of the Swatara Cr^ek, and ther** also intersecting the Union Canal,* leading to Reading on !he Schuylkill, 50 miles east. The inclined plane at Columbia is 1,800 feet long and 90 feet fall ; the engine-house at tbe head is of brick, with a machine of 40 horse power; double tracks pass cars up and down simultar.eously bore, as is alsodoiio &t tbo plane near the Schuylkill. * This following up the valley of the Swatara, extends for 50 miles in a rorth-east direction, to a point on the Schuylkill Canal and river, two miles below Reading; there is a feeder of 24 miles long from near thn sources of the Swatara; and aiso a tunnel of 729 feet, IS wide end 14 high ; two summit reservoirs, containing 12,000,000 cf cubic feet of water, one covering 27, the other eiieat of government of the State of Pennsylvania. Ilarrisburgli is a well built brick city, of 4,000 to 5,000 in- habitants, with the elegant edifices of the State-house/pub. lie officios, several churches, and a bridge and viaduct, both of an imposing character, and of one mile in extent, here spanning the noble Susquehannah 60 feet above the river, (see page 367.) The capitol stands on a gentle eminence and commands a fine view of the Susquehannah and the surrounding; country. 'J'he chambers of the Senate and House of Hepresentativeu are large, light, and well arranged to accommodate the cHt in when the De- claration of Independence was si£i;nnd in I'hiladelphia. From the opposite or west bank ot* the river a rail- road extends to Carlisle 18 miles, and thence to Chambersburgh 31 miles, from whence it will eventually be extended to Pitts- burgh, and also south to the Maryland line, and intersect the Baltimore an«l Ohio Rail-road at Hagerstown, 18 miles. From Harrisburgh we still continue on the ed^t bank of the Susquehannah for seven and a half miles to Port Dnuphin, and in eight and a half arrive at the place dfcrosii. ing to the west bank of the Susquehannah at Duncan's Island, at the mouth of the Juniata, where the Susquehannah is passed by a towing-path bridge. For the distance of several miles past, ilie canal is at the b .-ii' ')■( a mountain that skirts the east side of the river with , . ' the green, quiet island, amid patches of cultivation. The canal skirts the island for a mile to the north-west, then is led over the Juniata by an aqueduct made of wood and covered. From Duncan's Uland we proceed in a north-west direc- tion for 10 miles tu Newport, on the west side of Juniata River, and in six miles arrive at the lower aqueduct, and cross it to the north or left bank of the Juniata, and arrive at Thompsontown in five miles, Mexico in seven, Mifflintown in four, Lewistown in 14 miles. This is a thriv- ing place of 2,000 inhabitants, and is one of the new crea- tions arising- from the new route of trade and intercommuni- cation of Pennsylvania. The places previously seen, are all of some attraction, but this excelleth. Here the valley of the Juniata takes a south-west n, and passes Waynes- burgh in 10 miles, and recross^-s to the south bank by the aqueduct, and continues for a fow miles, and again re- crosses the Juniata at a hend in the river near Mamiltonville, and continues on the north shore to Aughweck Falls 12 miles, Huntington 17 miles, Pelersbura seven, Alexandria seven, Williamsburg 13, Frankatown 10, and in three more to its point of termination at HoHidaysburp, in a largo basin and warehouses, havmg traveled 171 and three quarter miles of canal from Columliia, and attained here to an elevation of 910 feet above title water at Philadelphia; passed 111 locks, making 747| feet lift in all ; canal 40 feet wide at top, 28 at bottom, and four feet deep, and having 18 dams, 33 aqueducts, and 16 miles of slack water navigation, A Alleghany Portage Rail-road. 377 change in the mode of conveyance a^ain occurs, the canni is left and cars rcceivo passengers, baggage, and merchan- dise soon as the transfek' can be cficcted. The city resident that is fortunate in his ability to enjoy (he thrilling scenes of wildness and grandeur that are con- stantly presented in advanr'ng up this gorge amid the bow- ers and secret penetralia of the Alleghanies, may luxuriate from the deck of the canal boat for a few hours, in contem- plating the rapid and magical changes as they pass in review the ptimitive face of nature — glens, lofty precipices, and mountains, clad in all the beauty and luxuriance of orii>inal creation, contrasted with the intrusions of man into these domains, his bold attempts to form, in defiance of obstacles innumerable, a way to enable him to connect or communi- cate with facility, extreme and remote places, that nature had apparently defended by ramparts and barriers, to pre- clude all attempts of man to overcome. Another transfer in the mode ofconveyance now occurs for I he next 37 miles, across the ridges of the Alleghanies that divide the waters that run eastward, from those llmt <»n the western side seek the channel of the Ohio and Mississippi. The eastern slope is much the steepest, and the traveler will hardly have time here to look around him and contemplato the scene, before he will he summoned to enter the cars, and will soon arrive in four miles at inclined plane No. 10, and in six and a half miles at No. G, another plane, and in nine at the mountain bridge; in three more at the bridge; in 10 more at the Staple Bend Tunnel; and in four and a half at Johnstown on the Conemaitgh or Kiskiniinitas.* The Alles^hnny Porl age Rail-road commences at Hollidays- burgh, and crossing the mountain at Blair's Gap Summit, thence descends the vulley of the Conemaugh to Johnstown, (where the western division of the canal commences,) over- coming in its ascent and descent, 2,570 feet, 1,398 of which are on the eastern, and 1,172 on the western side of the mountain. Two thousand and seven feet of the ascent and 'til m ^Income of 1836. Schuylkill Navigation Company, .... $490,078 Union Canal, 1.33,025 Lohigh «lo I0-J,000 Pennsylvania State Canal, 860,000 New- York do. do 1,550,000 Open 15tb April— shut Nov. m ••«>»> ;5'4i| I I 3?9 Alleghany Portage Rail-road. I deRcent ard overcome by planes of various inclinations, and for 163 feet by grading or slopes of the rail- road. There are also on this short but elevated line, four extensive viaducts, an 1 a tunnel 870 feet long and 20 feet high, making a cut through the Staple Bend Mountain of the Conemaugh River. The rail- road is made 25 feet wide for two sets of tracks, and its greatest elevation above tide water is 2,491 feet, and its cost, SI, 526.000. We now commence the descent of the western division of the Pennsylvania Canal, that at Johnstown is elevated 1,154 feet above the Atlantic, and taking a north-west course, ar< rive at Laurel Hill ; Fairfield, six and a half miles ; Lockport, nine and a half; Chesnut Hill, five ; Blairsville, eight ; Saltz- burg, 16'; salt works, seven ; Warrenton, five ; Leechburg, 10; and in three miles reach the aqueduct, that here cross- es to the west side of the Alleghany River, and in two miles arrive at Freeport; thence south-west, at 13 at Logan's Fer- ry ; at 12 Pine Creek ; and in seven, after passing a rubble aqueduct, arrive at Pittsburgh, and passing through Grant's Hill by a tunnel, emerge into the Mononguhcia, 104 miles from Johnstown. Exclusive of all side cuts and branches', the canals overcome 1,178 feet of ascent and descent, and the rail-roads 3,416 feet ; total, 4,594 feet. The annexed table may be useful in a topographical point of view. It shows the height of the most important places on the main line above :ide, and the diflerences in level between them. It also gives the distances of the same points from Philadelphia and from each other. The distances are measur- ed by the route of the public works, and the 'avels are those of the canal or rail-road at the points named. The mode of usuing the table will be evident on examina- iion. -■:._: ,p' ■'- ■::■■ t'- '■-•y'^''*'i>f' ?'-•?: '•»-,,S^ i:-5t' - '-i '::•'."■ 'X'-' .•i-^wtVil.:'^. : I ;• '„- ■ " '1. Sujj^v'* fi.-.»'A -j)j,-'.,i t«'ijr. ■>A^ Distance and Elevationt. J 1 .t; Table oreleralioii aiul din- • i E _5 •1 E g m a. tnnces on llie main line « w) - A • s 1. , . of the I'cnniylvni In In* ternal Improveraenti. "»» •1 s 1 V Bl >• It 1 s If 9 "O B JIM sS ^ « • .• i-O a V S *t V w k &■ w M ' MM ■E "o «3 i S "c 3 c "a w «>• t, S O ii o T a >->_ s Ci. *» 16 el ^^" • ■• 4 * Gnyaiidott, Va 36 * Portsmouth, O. ... 55 Miiyosville, Ky .'lO Ripley, 12 , Cincinnati, 53 '' Port William, Mo. Ky. river, . 80 Madison, iml 20 VVestport. Ky. ... . . 22 Loui»ville, Ky 28 Rome, Ind 100 Troy, Ind 35 Yellow Banks, Ky. ... 30 Evansville, Ind 50 Henderson, Ky. ... 12 Shawnnotown, HI. . . .55 Smithfield, Mo. of Cumberland, 6) Mouth of Oliio, . . . .65 A'cw Madrid, Mo. ... 75 Memphis, 'I ean 150 ' Hftlenn, Ark 85 s"! Vickshurph, Mis 300 Natch>>z, Miss. . . . 110 JNew Orleans, La. . . .300 \: Miles. Fare. 5 75 30 1 50 50 1 50 73 2 (!0 2 50 3 00 180 5 00 192 6 00 272 8 0(1 276 8 no 312 8 50 367 9 no 417 10 00 4:9 10 00 482 12 00 562 12 UO 582 ♦ ' 12 00 004 12 00 633 12 00 732 « 20 00 767 r^-rcn 20 on 797 ' so 00 847 22 00 859 • 22 00 914 22 00 979 25 00 1,044 fv« V 25 00 1,119 28 00 1,269 35 00 1,35J ' H 38 00 1,654 ^if % 40 00 1.764 ,. . ,. 40 00 2,064 :,'■ 45 00 if. t^-i DtMtanceM on the Aiu$i$*ippi. ■' ' 381 The above are the rates of what is called cabin passage, and includes boanling. Deck passengers find themseives, and are carried at about one-fourth of these rales. The part of the boat occupied by the?o is comfortable enough, has berths and some conveniences for cooking. It is a cheap and rapid, but not very desirable mode uf traveling. The foUowinj^ is copied from a statement compiled from good authorities: From St. Louia to Missouri River, 1 6 miles. Alton, llliuuis, 6 lt4 HatnburfT.do 15 30 Clarksville, Mo 60 09 Louisianu, do 1*2 1 1 1 Savcrton, do 2.1 134 Hannibal, do 7 141 Marion city, do 10 151 Qiiincy, HI 10 Ifil Lagrange, Mo 12 178 Tully, do . . . 8 ISl Warsiaw, 111. near Fort Edward, 90 201 Mouth or De Moines River, Mo 2 203 , Keokuk, Iowa, 1 204 ConimorRc, 111. head De Moines Rapids, .... 18 222 Appanoose, do. oppo8itc Fort Madison, . . . .10 2.13 Burlington, lown, 20 252 Yellow Banks, 111 15 267 New Boston, III. opposite Mo. Iowa River, ... 15 282 ; Jo A'a, near mouth of Pire Iliver, 35 317 • Rockporl, III. mouth ofRock River, .... 10 327 . Montevideo, Iowa, opposite Rockport, Scnasepo, do. 4 831 j Steven«un, III 5 330 Davenport, Iowa, opposite Stevenson, Rock bland, HI. foot of Rapid.s I 337 Cana^in, do head of R. J. Rapids 18 355 New Philadelphia, Iowa, . . . • ^ ;.' . . 40 395 , Savanna, III *'" * > 20 415 ; Smithvilie, do 10 425 Belleview, lowl^, 6 431 Fever River, 111 6 437 Galena, 8 445 Du Biiqne, Iowa, . . .30 475 Cussville, Wisconsin Territory, . . . . . 30 505 Prairie La Porte, 8 513 Prairie Dn Chien, 22 535 . Falls of St. Anthony, about <» 2ii5 800 Price of passage the same as on the Ohio River, viz. about $3 per 100 miles for long distances, and four to five cents '','<■ H t\' rvHJ m m I 382 Return Route from Pittsburgh to Philadelphia. per mile for short ones. Dock pasaengers* about $1 per 100 miles. The usiinl speed of the boat$ is six niilcH an hour up Rtrcain, and 10 down. ■ ■■■ Mi' %«' -. Iletum Route from Plttubnrgh to Philadelphia. Find out, if possible, a boat starting in tlio morning on the canal to scq till) Allflj^tiany River, and travel by day-light entirely, if it <-an bo so arranged, over the portage or mountain part. Soon after starting, the canal packet entirrs tlie aqueduct that leads over the Alleghany River to the west bank, and in north-east course, fur 30 milc3, pasjiMg severni villages to the mouth of the Kiskiminetas, that comes in on the o.ist side, auain crossing the Alleghany by an aqueduct to the north bank of the Kiskiminetas, and up that large and beautiful stream in a south-east di< roction, through romaniic, varied, and striking scenery, a distance of 100 miles, including tile (yonemaugh, through a coal and ^lalt rei;ion, visible in many places by the beams and strata of the hills, and the deep auger borings through several hundred feet of solid ruck, to reach the salt water. Past'ing Leechburg and Saltzburgli and a splendid stone aqueduct con* ducts the canal to a tunnel 800 feet in length, that saves a circuit of four miles. A tunnel of this size, of which 400 feet is cut through limestone rock, and the-rcst arched with solid masonry, iscertatidy a great achieve- ment, and the approach to it is so managed, and the attention of the traveler is so engrossed with the beauties of the scenery while paie of arch 10 feel; height from foundation to top of parapet 23^ feet; ditto from surface of low water 17 feet; width at top 25 feet 10 inches. Cost about $6,500. Tho viadurt over tho Reaver Dam Branch of the Juniata: — two oblique arch- es, each of 40 feet 31 inches npan measured on the skew face, and 33 feet measured at right angles to the axis of the vault; rise of arches lOj feet ; height from foundation to top of parapet 20 feet. Cost about $10,000. " Culverts. — There are 68 culverts; the spans vary from 5 to 20 feet; they are built of stone laid in lime mortar; the faces of the walls at the ends are built of hammered stone laid in courses ; the coping and steps, and the voussoirs that form the hcad.s of the arches, are smoothly cut. " jDratii«.--Thore are 80 drains of from two to three feet span; the walls are laid without mortar. The viaducts, culverts, and drains make together 157 passages for water under the rail-road. "Tho inclined planes are regular in descent, from the top to a point 200 feet from the foot, and terminate in a circular arc, to which the plane and level arc langents. Tho descent in 100 feet is shown in the table. Tho descent in thd last 200 feet is tho tfcime as iu 100 feet above. The inclined planes are all straight in plan. "The entire cost of the Portage Rail-road, with single track, machine- ry, and single stationary engines at the inclined planei , is about $1,1 55,000. The cost of laying a second track is about $295,Clt0. The cost of an- other set of stationary engines is about $25,000. Total $1,475,000. ^^Description of the Machinery.— FirH Set of Engines : The system of machinery adopted at the inclined planes of the Portage Rail-way is different in many of its features from thn plans heretofore adopted in Eu- rope and this country. The trade on this road will preponderate in dif- ferent directions at different seasons of the year; and in consequence it j!'i ill • '111 u ■ -^ I I': *■ :-X\ \ m 384 JUturn Route from PitUhurgh to Philadelphia* WM deemed neeeennry to place stcnin engines at all the planoa, nnd alto to arrange tho macliinni-y so iliut tlipy may bo nelf-actinir if necessary. ••Two veriicH? sheaves* of cast iron, 8.J feet in diameter, and inrn- ed in the gtoovoet so as ^o he exactly ttimilur to oacii other in form and dimRnsions, are placed, one iii the centre of onch ruii-way traek,alinut 100 feet fro:n tho head of the plane ; the topn of them extending six inches above the rcila. The nhnfts on which these sheaves are placed, are goercd together by equal ipur wheels four feet in diameter^ so ub to revolve iu opposite directions. Intheplanef pasdinjir throufth the bottom of thcsu nhenves, and in a pit between tiiem and the bead of tho (inclined) plane, a horizontal shouve, (the diameter of which la equal to the distance bo< tween tho centres of the tracks,) is placed, tho groove of which in also turned smooth. This Inst is fitted into a strong frame, which may bo moved for a distance of 1") feet towords the head of the plane, by means of a weight attached to a chain, and hanging in a well, 'I'liere is anothi^r horizontal sheave 40 feet from the foot of the plane, on the level, which ii also fitted into a strong framo moveable 50 feet, by means of a double pully-block, rope, and windlass. The rnpc is endless, and is supported by (east ir»n?) sheaves 18 inches (in) diameter, with hardened steel axles, placed 24 feet apart. It passes around the horizontal sheave nt the foot of the plane, up the centre of one track until it meets the vertical sheave above the head (ofthephtne,) parses half round it; and returning towards tho head of the plane, meets the horizontal sheave, passes half round it, returns to tho second vertical sheave, passes hall round it, and down the other track of the rail-way Tite moveable sheave of the head, has tho effect of drawing the rope tightly into the grooves of tho working sheaves, obviating the danger of slipping, and equalizing the strain, that at the foot will pcrmiuhe slacknoi^s of thero()o tobe takenup as it stretches by use, without tlie necessity of cutting and splicing it. '• The steam-engine which drivest'ie above machinery is coupled to the ehari of one of the vertical sheaves. It. is n dotible cylinder, high pres- sure, slide v.-dve, horizontiil engine, wiihout a fly whoel, and drives the working 8huf\ directly without the intervention of geering. At six of the R lanes the engines arc of 35 horse power, and at the remaining four of 30 orse power. When the number of strokes of the mgine is 1 4 per minute, the velocity of the rope is about four miles an hour. The form of the en- gine, although somewhat more expensive thim the comnson one, is recom- mended by its greater safety. Being under more perfect command than a single cylinder engine with o fly-wheel, it may be started, or, in case of accident, be stopped with great facility. When the descending load ex- ceeds tiie ascending, the hydraulic regulator is thrown into goer. This is a horizontal cyliiidor filled with water, 14 inches (in) diameter, made of cast iron, and having a piston, piston-rnd, slides, pitman, Slc. similar to a steam-engine cylinder. It has a side-pipe connecting tho ends, in wliich is placed a valve, worked by an elevating screw similar to that of a com- mon throttle valve. A spur-wheel geering with one on the shaft of one ol tho vertical sheaves, works a pitman, which drives the piston backwards and forwards through tlie cylinder. At each half stroke of tho piston, the whole of tlie water iu the cylinder is forced through the orifice formed by the valve in the side pipe, and as this may be regulated by hand, any de- cree Qf retardation required may be obtained. 'WheeU, t Imaginary. ' \ Schuylkill Coal Region. Schuylkill Coal Regioii. The head waters oi tlic River Schuylkill arc situated in tho lijhest cohI region in the United Slutes. , : . . Pcunsvlvaniu is !ii:y[hly favored in the Rhundance of her coal and iron, more valuable to her than diumonda or pcarla, fcilvor or gold. Tho annual consumption is more than 800,000 tons, and rapidly increasinm-.very suoccssivo year. The average price III Ihe mines is $4 a ton, amounting to over ^3,000,000 to ihe State for tliis nriicle of export alone, for which the neighbor- ing States will for ever be tributary to her, and whon the consumption increases as it %viU in 20 years to 3,000,000 of tons per annum: it presents the most dazzling vision of pros- perity and wealth to the zeal and industry of this nation. The collieries of England are said to produce annually 28,000,000 of tons, and give employment to many thousands of laborers and seamen, and is tho principal relMuice of her navy as a nursery for seamen, and such also will >e the effect here. There are three great coal basins in Pennsylvania. First, comprising the Lehigh, Sw-atara, Schuylkill, and Little Schuylkdl, being 70 miles long, and ranging north 7'2^ cast; one mile wide at the Lehigh, five at the west branch of the Schuylkill, and branching off into two points, one between the Second and Peter's Mounlaius, and the other in Lykin's Valley. Second, the Shamokin, IVlahony, or Beaver Meadow coal region, six to eight miles north of the first, and likewise ex- tending from the Susquehannah to the Lehigh, and rang- ing in a similar way: the veins are very large and position nearly horizontal. Third, the Siisq'ielmnnah, Wilkesbarre, and Lackawanna region, extending from the head waters of the latter, down the Susquehannah some miles below Wilkesbarre: the beds "The westerii approrich to LewiHton is remarkably interesting; the landscape possessing every beautiful natural fcaturo tlialcan be furnished by tiic various combinations of mountain, valley, river, iiill, and wood, both wild and cultivated. PHssing Duncan's Island and Icavinj; the valley of the Juninta, vvc glide into the broad bosom of tho noble Susquehannah, and entorinp the canal ou its eastern side, arrive at Hurritburgh, ut WiU ■on's excellent hotel. /./■;-:■::■ 33 L,>' r--* \t' .. , i i 'M 88G SchuylHU Coal Region. are nearly horizontal, and the basin from five to seven miles wide and 80 miles in length. On the eastern extremity of the first basin are the Mauch Chunk or Lehigh coal mine&, and fiv^ miles west is the large quarry of the Little Schuylkill at Tamaqua, and four miles west of the latter the Tuscarora mines, which are the first in the Schuylkill region, extending fiom this 20 miles west, andoccupy:ng the broadest and best part of the basin, that includes every variety of anthracite cofii, and most accessible to the great markets. West c'' this is the Swatara or Pine Grove region. The basins are composed of alternate strata of rock and coai at irregular distances. Tunnels have been made in vari- ous parts, and one of half a mile in length. From the uni> formity of the coal ranges, whenever a mine of a superior quality of coal i3 discovered, it can easily be traced to a con- siderablo distance, and the *' Spohn " and "Lewis " veins have been identified for 10 miles or more, although there are some dislocations and distortions that evince a strong up. heaving force, so that the strata is seen occasionally, verti' cal, or in olher positions. The coal is divided into three classes ; that which burns freely and has a residuum of red ashes, another harder and more difficult to ignite, leaving gray ashes, and the third still harder and more difficult of ignition, leaving white ashes. The ScHuv'.kiil mines have the advantage of ready access to the beds of coal by rail-roads, without the application of stationary engines, or self-acting planes, that are much more expensive than other power applied on a properly graded rail-road. The Schuylkill Canal commences opposite the Fair Mount water-works near Philadelphia, and is continued on the west side of the river; has 30 dams, by which is produced a slack water navigation of 45 miles; 125 locks, 80 feet long by 17 in widih, of which 28 are t,uard-locks, 17 arched aqneducis, a tunnel of 450 feet in leiigth, cut through and under solid rock, anrl 65 loll and gate-houses; the dams* are from three to 27 feet in height. Cost $2,336,380. Length lOS miles; breadth at the surface 36 feet, and 24 at bottom, xnd four feet deep ; lockage 620 feet ; it extends to Reading, 52 miles from Philadelphia, (where the Union Canal comes in from the west, and extends to the Susquehannah,) (see index) and from Reading 56 miles to Mount Carbon, and is intersected Port Clinton — Port Carbon. 387 by rail-roads connected with the most important collieries as follows, viz. First, at Port Clinton, mouth of the Little Schuylkill, 87 miles from Philadelphia, comes in the road of the Littlo Schiiyikiil RaiUroaii and Coal Company, who have laid out thiatown and establislied extensive landing's there for the shipment of their coal, and have made a well graded rail-road of 22 miles in exteni ending at Tamaqiia. Locomotive steam- engines are used on the whole line; 34,121 tons were ship- ped by them m 1834. Second, next is Schuylkill Hnven, 100 miles from Phila- delphia, a place of deposit and shipment for the collieries of the west, and the west- west branches of the Schuylkill River. The Mine Hill and Schuylkill Haven Rail-road Company have a branch leading from this to the Broad Mountain, about 11 miles in length, following the course of the west branch, and a branch of about three miles in len;E!ih, up the west- west branch. The main road penetrates the coal region about six miles froip Schuylkill Haven, and intrrsects the (Strata at right angles ; and there are several important branches, the property of in- dividuals, the whole calculated for horse power, but admit- ting steam if required. 41,529 tons of coal were shipped in 1834. Third, Mount Carbon and Pottsville Landings are 106 miles from Philadelphia, and situated on the ei\ge» of i he coal basin, in the gap of tiie Sharp Mountain. The '' Mount Carbon and Norwegian" Rail-road extends from this point until connect- ed with the Pottsville and Danville Rail road, at the foot of their inclined plane on the east branch of the Norwegian Creek, and a branch of their road is also carried for several miles up the west branch of the same creek, s'^ing access to the most celebrated veins of the red ash coal. Horse-power is used, but steam can be. 88,117 tons shipped in 1834. Fourth, Port Carbon, 108 miles from Philadelphia, at the junction of Mill Creek with the Schuylkill River. Mill Creek has formed a deep ravire across the roal reghn in a tliroct line, and thus yields easy access to the veins in the basin. Up this stream the Mill Creek Rail road extends from the canal about four miles, to the foot of the inclined plane of the Pottsville and Danville Rail-road, on the south side of the £road Mountain; with it arc connected collier'es on the most celebrated veins of the region, furnishing every variety of coul, such ai tho " Pott and Bannun," " Diamond/' " Peach ,■<: 388 Schuyjkill River. Mountain," '*Spohn," '• Lewis," Gate, y striking on the stones various sounds are heurd equal to a Hue chime of bells. There is n cave near also worthy of attention The Vaucliise Mineral Springs are a mile from Lehighton, in a re mantle spot, and here was formerly the ruins of an Easton, Mauch Chunk, and Lehigh. 989 Indian sweating-house. The springs are chalybeate and verr cold. A mile and a half from the sprinjis on Weiss' farm is a well du^ by Dr. Franklin, when stationed at this post in 1756. The war path over the Mauch Chunk Mountain is preserved ; minerals, shells, and other objects of scientific research are in abundance, and the neighboring streams and lakes abound in trout and other fish. .*■-> y. .» >i' •j.-S ,•■ Easton, Itlaucli Chunk, and L.ehigh. Easton^ at the confluence of the Lehigh and Delaware Ri- vers, is an ancient and respectable town, wi'h u population of about 3,000. It is built mostly of stone and brirk, and has a substantial and comfortable appearance. The Dela> ware hero, with its bold and precipitous banks, and the picturesque Lehigh and its attendant canal and verdant slopes, are the principal features of the landscape as viewed from the surrounding heights. A roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting on two slone piers, and is about 800 feel in length. Ove»- 1 he Lehijjh soot h of Ension, is also a handsome chain briwest from Easton on the Lehigh River and Cnnal, and is truly a charming spot, and diatinguished for its appearance of neatness, comfort, good order, Jind industry ; and (he scene- ry, as wo descend towards the river, winding among lovely hills and meadows, paiks, forests, and lawnf, is of the tir»t order of rural heauly. The Female Seminary in this place is a conspici lus ob> eel, and it is one of the attractions to strangers and to pa- rents from all parts of the United States. In the vicinity of Bethlehem the region is of the limestone formation, and the inhabitants mostly the descendants of German emigrants from Wirtemherg, who still retain their language, hut not in its native pinify. They have their news- papers and- almanacs printed in the same language. The Manokisey Creek bounds the village on the west, and empties into the Lehigh ; there is a bridge over each stream ; the high and wooded elevations opposite the town on the south side of the Lehigh River, the fine state of cultivation that prevails near this settlement, the luxury of wide and sha- ded walks neatly paved with brick, and the pleasant pro- menades in every direction, combine to make an agreea- ble impression on the visiter. There is no community of goods here as in some o'lier German places in Pennsylvania and Ohio. The musical genius of the German nation is here displayed in weekly concerts, and in their public worship on the Sabbath, in the most attractive manner. There are 800 inhabitants. Nazareth, six miles to the north, is another town of 500 in- habitants, belonging to the same society, and has a large school for boys. The road to it passes through a well culti- vated district, evincing the wealth and ease of the proprie- tors ; that of Mr. Schlahach, who came over as a redemption- er, Is especially worthy of notice The road up to MaucU Chunk passes throush Kreidersville, Cherryville, Berlinsville, over n most beautiful country, pro- ducing fine crops of wheat and grass ; the inhabitants being Germans, and here as elsewhere thriving and industrious. The scenery increases in interest as you approach the Blue Ridge, which is seen rising before you like a barrier, and stretching for many milei in a northeast and south-west di- rection, at right angles to your course, an«' thickly wooded, with a very aieep appearance, and become-, still more beau- tiful as you approach and enter the gap, l.v the side of the Lehigh and Mauch Chunk, 391 river nnd canal, with the cleft mountain rising 1,000 feet, »nd presenting on either side a bold projection of rocks riHing very al»riiptly, and forming an imposing- portal to tho Ptibsequent scenes. Soon after passing Lehighton^ we enter a long circuitous gorge that near Mauch Chunk narrows and diminishes in width, and barely leaves room for the river and canal, and for a road partly cut out of the mountain. [n this wild gorge the traveler will find an excellent hotel, that in the rear is overhung by the mountain, while near by in front is the rapid Lehigh, and one of the numerous dams for feeding the canal, that extends from its head here to Eas- ton, and along the right bank of the Delaivare to Bristol, 18 miles above Philadelphia; total 60 miles, being the channel by which the coal of trie Lehigh reaches the tide water to the Delaware. Tlie canal along the Lehigh is a creditable work. The Links are firm and lined chiefly with stone •, locks 100 feet long and 22 feet wide, of hewn stone laid in hydraulic cement, and lined with plunk ; tho canal is 60 feet wide at top, 45 at bot- tom, and five feet deep ; 364 of ascent fnim Easton ; 54 locks :md nine dams. Total distance from the mines to Philadel- phia, 124 miles. The principal object worthy of the examination and enjoy- ment of the traveler, is the vast depopit of coal in this vicini- ty, and the agreeable and easy method of reachmg the spot by a mountain excursion of nine miles on a rail road, that commences near the hotel by a very steep ascent of 215 feet, in an inclined plane of 700 feet. This part is only intended for the descent of loaded coal wagons and the simu!taneon< ascent of empty ones, and is managed in the usual manner of inclined planes before described on the Columbia Rail-road, (see Index.) From the t>ummit of Ibis short plane commen- ces the main rail-way to the mines ofnine miles, besides se- veral miles of side railing or lateral road. This main road is graded to 100 feet of ascent per mile, and is of timbor, shod with flat bar iron on the upper and inner edge, and cost only $3,^00 per mile. Here the traveler enters the car «h«t is drawn by horses, and for one hour, which is the time taken to ascend, can en- joy the scene without tliC least fatigue or dancer, till he ar- rives at the summit, and by walking a short distarice looks down into the immense excavation, where the minors are busily at work loosening the coal in heavy masses, the whole \ 4 1 t Ik m m\ 'i. irtii I ilili 392 Maueh Chunk Coal Mines. hnving the appearance of an open stone quarry exposed to the canopy of heaven ; the guperincurnbent earth and rocks having been removed in the first stages, and pitched into a ravine at hand. The coal mine occupies an area of more than eight acres, and the excavation is in the form of platforms or steps of a colossal size, forming an angular area, with roads leading down to the interior. The eeams or beds of coal are of great thickness, varying from 12 to 25, 35, and 54 feet, and more, and the perpendicular sections cut through display the con* tortious and irregularities to the best advantage ; rails are laid in the mine for conveying the coal to the main rail-way, and to the chute at the end, where it is precipitated or dump- ed down the last slope into the coal barges or canal-boats ; 146,000 tons were sent from this rjiine in 1836 ; and upon the Schuylkill, 436,000 tons; and of the Lackawanna, 102,000 tons;' in all, 684,000 tons of anthracite coal; in 1835 the amount was 557,000 tone. The coal rubbish is conveyed in cars on a rail-way that ex- tends longUadinally along the mountain slope, and by seve- ral branches at right angles, reaching over the vale; the coal at the terminations is ejected to a great depth below, and has already accumulated in several black mounds. An amusing feature of the rail-way operations is presented in witnessing the descent of the mules, that are taken down in pens to the end of the rail-way, to drag the empty cars up the nine-mile slope, and their imperturbable gravity while munching their provender and enjoying their rapid flight, that constant and daily habit has taught them is so much easier than to walk the distance, and thai no coaxing or whipping could force them to attempt, that even Cruik- shank him^ielf could not have a better subject for his satiri* cal touches. „ ■ ;^ r. a 'js^ .- A visit to the coal hasm group of mountains tn Pennsyl- vania is now an established summer route, uniting fine and varied scenery and the benefit «>f puro air wiih amusement of the most exhilaralin? description. The hotel offers every comfort and accommodation to the traveler, and conveyance may readily be procured for Pottsville, Wiikesbarre, and other places. Valley of Wyoming and Lackawanna. ''i"**. w. 393 Talley of IVyoming: and Liackawanna. The anthracite region of the Sus<]nehanna is GO or 70 miles long, and about five broad; leaving out of view its irregu- larities, tliis valley may be regarded as the lower half of a vast flattened tube lying horizontally, within which are laid n series of sections of smaller tubes whose sic'es continually diminish :n height, and end with the omission of those toword the centre; the bottom of these sections represents the strata in the lower parts of the valley, and the sides those of the slopes of the hills and mountains. The Lackawanna Creek and Susquehannah Uiver flow through a natural canal, scooped out longitudinally in the lower part of the upper strata, winding irregularly in a line nearly but not exactly central, and tending most towards the side which represents the western barrier of mountains. The figure of an inverted arch gives an ideal section of the strata, as regards their position and arrangement, with- out any pretension to accuracy in the proportions or num- ber of strata; and the v.Jcasional irregularitio'S as well as the steep ascent up the mountains to the extreme right and left are intentionally omitted. The strata are those of ihe an- thracite coal formation ; only throe wifi be noticed. At the top a rock composed of Ihe ruins or friigmenls of other rocks, the parts and cements of which arc principally siliceous^ the fragments of various sizes from thatofpebbles to that of sand, forming s.and-stone or pudding-stone, or grnuwacke, noxt argillaceous slate, with vegetable impressions; then anthra* cite coal between roof and pavement: the direction of the strata is near north east an•»»«», 394 Carbondate- cxhnuslible, and more important to the country than mines of gold and silver. The Pennsylvania Canal \9 at hand to con- duct to Baltimore or Philadelphia, or to New-York, hy the Delaware and Hudson Canal and Rail-road. The valley of Wyoming is rich in soil and the best agricul- tural proJuctions,andis unrivalled in fertility and beauty, full of interesting historical association, and the descendants of a high minded race of men; it will ever be one of the most at- tractive regions to every intelligent and patriotic Am(>rican. Its form is that of a long oval or ellipse ; the first glance of a strxngcr from the eastern rocky summit is rich, beautiful, varied, and grand ; few landscapes can vie with it; several villages or clusters of houses appear. VVilUesbarre is a well built, rural village, and has 2,500 or more inhabitants. Cnrburidnle is situated on the Lackawanna, a creek emp- tying into the Sui^cjuehannah at the head of the valley of Wyoming. The mine is situated in the front of a hill ; it is quarried in a continuous line for sixty rods, and presents a front of ^ood Gonl of 20 feet in thickness, besides several feet more of roof coal, stained and shattered by time and the weather. Seve- ral steamv up the coal in wagons:, on a rail-way from the mine to the summit level, whence it descends by another rail-way 16 m'les long, to the canul at Honesdale, on the Lackawaxen, and along that stream 30 miles to the Delaware, and down the valley on the east side to Carpenter Point ; thence It turns north-east and extends to the Hudson at Kingston. The Lackawaxen is a wild mountain stream running through Wayne and Pike Counties in Pennsylvania, and along its banks the canal is constructed until it meets and crosses the Delaware, The summit level of the canal is only 60 feet above the Delawate at Port Jarvis, 535 above the Hudson at Kingston ; the distance between the two points is 59 miles; and from Port Jarvis up the Delaware to the Lnckawaxen, and up tho latter stream to Honesdale, 49 miles; total 108 miles; and including the rail-road as above, 124 miles. The New-York portion of the canal runs along the foot of tlie western slope of the Shawangunk range of mountains between the Hudson and the Delaware, in Ulster and Sullivan Counties, and up the valley of the River Delaware on the New-York side. ^ The Delaware and Hudson Caoal is 32 feet wide and four Lackawaxen and Delaware, 395 feet deep; ascent and descent 625 feet ; 62 locks; coiitofthe can nl $1,000,000; commenced July, 1825 ; finished October, 1828. An elevation of 800 feet on the east side of Monsic Mountain is overcome by five inclined planes, ep^h from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in length. In drapgin^ the coal up to the summit level from the mines on the west side of the mountain, accidents have occurred formerly from the breaking of the iron chains extending from the coal was^ons to the fixed steam-engine at the top of the hill, when such was the rapid- ity of the descent, the vehicle could only be seen as a dim streak darting through the air; this is now remedied by the use of hemp cables. Along the Lackawaxen and the Delaware the canal is in several places supported on the brink of the river by massive stone walls from 15 to 40 feet in height, the rocks having been blasted out of the precipice on the east, and thrown into the bed of llie river to form the basis of the canal, which thus for many miles runs side by side with the heavy tumultuous current of the adjoining river, and presenting many imposing views of the rough and wild scenes of nature, in strong con- trast with the smooth and peaceful surface of the canal, along which we glide in security, although in such near proximity to what must sometimes be a source of apprehen- sion to the timid or nervous, but more generally causmg a state of delightful excitement. To the tourist in search of pleasure or the picturesque, this excursion in summer may be entered upon at either extremity, Carbondale or Kings- ton, and the coal region of Mauch Chunk on the Lehigh, or at the head of the Schuylkill, near Pottsville and the Union Canal, taken to proceed to or from the valley of Wyoming, as before described. '' This excursion can be made in a few days and at trifling expense, either from New-York or Philadelphia; in the for- mer case proceeding up the Hudson and debarking at the entrance of the Rondoul Kill near Kingston, and following up the Shawangunk Valley, or in the latter taking the Schuyl- kill Canal or the rail-road to Rending and Port Carbon, and thence to Mauch Chunk or Easlon, or down the Nescopeck Valley to the Susquehannah, as may bo readily seen on any good map of the States of New-York and Pennsylvania.- The Mnrris Canal leads from Powles Hook, opposite the cjjy of New-York, through Newark, and thence in a north- ern direction along the eastern slope of Newark hills towards i} 11 396 Morri$ Canal, New Jersey. the manufacturing town of Pnterson, which it overlookii as it wind:! slowly to tho westward rou»d an elevation, twice crossing Lhc Passaic River above the celebrated fails of that name, (which niny easily be visited in two hours from New- York, using the rail-roud conveyance,) thence winding through the valleys in Morri* and VVarrcn Counties, and re- ceiving a feeder on the summit level from the Hopatcong Lake, 900 feet above tide, a clear and beautiful sheet of water, it descends through the valley of the Musconctcong and en- ters the Delaware River opposite Caston in Pennsylvania, and the mouth of the Lehigh River. The transportation of the coal that cotnosdown the Lchigli Canal from the Mauch Chunk mines, 36 miles north-west from Easton to the city of New- York, and the east, is the prin- cipal source of the business of the Morris Canal, and in time will render it proHtable, although jt is connected with a hank of the same name, having an office in the ciiy of New-York, and at present more lucrative than the canal stock to the stockholder^^, under a most liberal charter from the State of New Jersey. si,. This canal was commenced in 1S25. It is 116 miles long, 32 feet wide at the surface, four feet deep, rise and full 1,657 feet, of which 223 are overcome by 24 locks, and the remain- ing 1,434 by 23 inclined planes of a very ingenious construc- tion, combining water-power and machinery on the plan of Professor Renwick, of Columbia College, of the city of New- York; there are also four guard-locks, five dams, 30 culvert?, 12 aqueducts, and 200 bridges ; cost $2,000,000. !• The counties adjoining this canal arc rich in iron ore and in valuable minerals, especially Sussex County in thn north- west part of the State, and in numerous clear and beautiful lakes and mountain streams, abounding with trout and other fish, and the woods with game, hke all similar regions in the United States. Upper Falls of tlie Crenessee'in IVenr-York. Sixty miles south of Lake Ontario, 23 above Moscow, are remarkable falls, or rather three falls in a diyJance of three miles ; these are very little known from being somewhat out of tho range of fashionable travel ; they each differ much from the other, and are at present di£ScuIt to approach, but this \% Scenery of the Geneesee RiMr. 397 easily obviated. The three falls are 60, 60, and 110 feet high, Bad are grand objects, but they are almost forgotten in the feelings oi wonder, and even of fear, with which the sublime perpendicular walls of the river inspire. They may truly be called walls, for they do not, like the beautiful rocks at Tren- ton, recede as they -approach the top, but are for a great dis- tance perfectly upright or impending, and almost as regular for a great part of three miles as a work of art, and rising from 200 to 600 feot ; to this depth the river seems to have worn its circuitous passage in the solid rock, in turns almost as short, and bends nearly as graceful, as if winding through the softest meadows. A scene of more savage grandeur and loneliness can seldom be witnessed than the view from the top when looking into the deep gulf from one of the highest points, to the very edga of which, by trusting to the boughs of the thick shrubbery, you can approach without apparent danger. Gigantic ever« greens stand upon the extreme verge, and the^ seem from their height to have held their places on this brmk for ages. The region of the Genesee, as well as the Niagara, are re- markable for their very distinct and almost horieontal strati- fication. The rocks, consisting principally of limestone, sand-stone, and slate, although greatly indented on the surface, scooped into deep basins and valleys, swollen info high hilli, and pre- senting great variety of outUne in the sweeps of bold and beautiful curves, are generally laid down with the regularity of a work of art, and remain evidently in the horizontal po- sition into which they first subsided — the observer is impress- ed by the grandeur of the piles, by the different colors of the alternating strata of rocks, reposing upon each other in per- fect order, as if reared by the mason's art and power ; by the mild beauty of the trees, shrubs, and verdure on their sum- mits and edges, and by the enormous masses which time has thrown down in ruins to be washed by the ceaseless wear of a river, always powerful, and at times swollen to an over- whelming torrent. The Asphaliic or slate rock, that is so highly charged with bitumen as to be capable of combustion, is found at the out- let of Honeyoye and Canesus Lakes, and on the C&naseraga branch of the Genessee River. If, i i»- • ; i i: u ''■■.■ i *i 6f , ' I" i! ■ \ " 3 398 From Philadelphia to Baltimore. t t.i' ;..-, "S I J .^ Sauihern JRoute resutned from page 358^ From Philadelphia to Baltimore. The traveler has the choice of several routes to proceed td the South from Philadelphia: — First, by rail-road via Wilmington and Havre de Grace ^ through in about five or six hours. Second, by steam-boat to New Castle ; thence by raii*road for 16 miles, ending by the steam-boat on the Chesapeake, dovirn the Bay 64 miles to Baltimore. The fare by each line is $4. The canal from the Delaware to the Chesapeake ii entered 10 miles below Ne«v Castle at Delaware City ; this is frequented by schooners, sloops, or steam-bqats, as herealter described. . ^ , . . . ' Those preferring the combined route by river and rail-road will proceed to Chesnut-street wharf, before the boat leaves • the city early in the day, at seven or six o'clock ;. or at nuon, on the arrival of passengers by the eastern routes, at twelve to two o'clock, when the boat glides rapidly past the southern ,part, or river-front of the city and suburbs of Philadelphia, The most prominent building to attract the eye of a stranger, • ii the Ship-house at the Navy Yard, where some of the no- blest and best ships in the navy of the United^ States have been constructed, the Delaware, the Pennsylvania, and oth- - ers ■, from thence, passing Gloucester Point, League Island, ■ and the termination of the isthmus, between the Schuylkill I and Delaware, the traveler will notice, on the left or east - bank, the site of the revolutionary fort of Red Bank, the for- . mer scene of strife and bloodshed. Some miles onward, be . will pass, on the west bank, the Lazaretto or Quarantine buildings. The banks of the Delaware are penerally of but moderate elevation, on either side of this portion of the river; . the aspect tame or uninteresting at a distance -, bui the land is of the most fertile description, the lowlands or meadows : protected by embankments from inundation. Two or three ^ hours are occupied before the boat arrives at New Castle, i where the land route across the State of Delaware commen- ces. Distant views of Chester and Wilmington are had in proceeding thus far, the former in 15 miles ; the latter in 28 miles from Philadelphia, between the Brandy wine and New Ca»ile^Che»apeake and Delaieare Canal. 399 ChristianA Creeks, one mile above their confluence, two west of the Delaware; the population about 7,000; its eitua* tion elevated and pleasant. (See rail-road route next descri- bed.) " New Castle is 33 miles from Philadelphia; it was settled by the Swedns in 1627, before the arrival of William Penn. The population is 2,5terdam was merged in New- York. The New Castle and Frenchtoion Rail-road is now part of the jp;reat thoroughfare between Philadelphia and Baltimore; it affords a safe, rapid means of communication between the Delaware and Chesapeake Bays. The road is 16^ miles long, nearly straight ; (the curves only adding 2,559 feet.) The greatest variation from a level, is in one section of 4,000 feet long, that has a slope of 29 feet to the mile; in others it is only 10 or 16 feet to the mile. The amount of excavation v,MO c 00,000, and of embankment 420,000 cubic yards. There are four viaducts, 29 culverts, all of stone. It was completed in 1833. Total cost, $400,000, including land, wharves, cars, engines, &c. The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal commences 10 miles below the rail-road, at a place called Delaware City, oppo- site an island of small extent, on which is Fort Delaware, in ruins. The canal extends in a south-western direction, four miles through the marshes to St. George's; it soon after en- ters upon the Deep Cut, that is six miles long, 70 feet in the deepest part, with an arched bridge of 235 feet span, 90 feet above the water, thus admitting steam-boats, schooners, sloops, or barges, to pass beneath, while passengers or car- riages may be seen at a giddy height, on the elevated arch above. Prom this to Chesapeake City, at the western ter- mination on Back Creek, a tributary of the Elk, is four miles. This canal runs three quarters of its distance through the State of Delaware, the rest in Maryland ; it is 60 feet in breadth at the surface, 10 feet in depth, has two tide and two lift locks, 100 feet long, 22 feet wide in the clear. The r I'' ti *v V 4 < »•■« ♦ » 9T, 400 Delaware Breakwater. summit level, that is 12 feet above tide, is supplied by a re* servoir, covering an extent of 100 acres, 10 feet deep. It was commenced in 1824; opened for navigation in 1829; it cost $2,200,000, and is in a ^reat part attributable to the public spirit of the citizens of Philadelphia. It is one of the moat useful works in this country, and, like the canal between the Raritan and Delaware, it saves a circuitous and sometimes dangerous, exposed soa and river navigation of 384 miles from Philadelphia, by way of the Delaware and Chesapealce, up to the head of the bay. The trade carried on through the canal is brisk and constantly increasing. Great obstacles in constructing the canal were encounter- ed in the outset, in the deep tide marshes of St. George's, bj the porous, spongy soil, that gave way under the pressure of a heavy embankment, that sank to the depth of 40 or 50 feet; also by the sliding of the earth into the canal at the heavy steep slopes at the deep cut, before it was rendered secure by turf or thatch. The piers forming the harbor, at the en- trance into the Delaware, enclose several acres of surface; there is the first tide lock, also one of the moveable bridges. The Delaware Breakwater at Lewiston, near Cape Heolo- pen, is an immense work of national undertaking, (costing a million of dollars, and yet unfinished,) that has long been re< quired, for the protection of the coasting trade from the north- east storms, and from which this is the only refuge in such cases for a considerable extent of coast. Steam-boats in the summer season occasionally visit it, as they do Cape May on the opposite shore of the bay, and in^ termediate places up, such as Chester, Wilmington, New Castle, and the cityy at the entrance of the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal. At the termination of the New Castle and Frenchtown Rail-road, near the head of Elk, (a bhort distance below w^here the Philadelphia and Wilmington Rail-road extendi to the mouth of the Susquehannah,) passengers take the steam-boat here found waiting the arrival of the train, and proceed down the Elk, 13 miles to its confluence with the Chesapeake Bay at Turkey Point, where the bay expands northward towards Havre de Grace, at the mouth of the famous Susquehannah; here the glance that is had for a few miles at its bold, upland, not to say rocky outlines to the north-west, /eveals sufficient of its beauty to induce the disposition of the passing traveler to behold still more of its ITT Philadelphia mnd Wilmington Rail-road Route. 401 wild, romantic borders, rendered classical, almost immortal, by the genius of the poet Campbell, or the bloody feats re- corded of the wily Indian warriors. Taking the course down the broad and shallow bay to- wards Baltimore or Norfolk, we reach, in six milcp, Grove Point, Poolers Island in 16, Middle Island in eight, and North Point in eight miles, opposite the mouth of the Patapsco, ex- tending towards Baltimore ; and here is usually encountered the steam-boat that has just left the latter city, on its way to Norfolk; therefore all those bound southward or to Rich- mond, or theVtrginia Springs, can embrace (his opportunity, and have their trunks, &c. transferred '.o the downward boat, that comes along side for that purpose, to save time or pre- vent travelers taking any other interior route, as they may perhaps be inclined to adopt, if they proceed to the city of Baltimore or Washington. After passing Sparrows Point in four miles, Fort M'Henry in six miles, in three miles the traveler is at Baltimore. The Philadelphia and Wilmington, or Upper Rail-road route, must be exclusively resorted to when the navigation of the rivers and bays are obstructed by ice; also at other times by those desirous of avoiding steam-boats, or wishing to pass through the interior of Delaware, near the old stage road; by a diversified, hilly route, that has sufficient variety to please. Leaving the city of Philadelphia by the usual hours at the dep6t in Broad-street, the train passes through the suburbs, and soon reaches the Schuylkill River, crossing it by a substantial viaduct or floating bridge to its west shore ; thence proceeding rapidly in a south* west directicn, it reach- es Darby in seven miles, thence to Chester in eight miles. This is quite an ancient place, with a population of 1,000, also the seat of the first legislature after the arrival of^ William Penn ; thence, along the road in the vicinity of the shore of the Delaware, by an embankment over the meadows for some distance, to Marcus Hook five, Wilmington eight miles, or 28 from Philadelphia. This is a wealthy city, also a port of entry, owning over 12,000 tons of shipping, and numer- ous flour mills, that the falls of the Brandy wine furnish with power, also for 100 manufactories of various kinds, cotton, wool, paper, powder, iron- castings, within 10 miles. The upper waters of this useful stream are crossed on the roads from Philadelphia to Lancaster, (see page 370.) Here is a town ball, two markets, three banks, 13 places of wqrship— 34* I I I I 'P. 1 II ^, .. ir-,. (n.>; «> I'l* 402 Christiana Creek. three each for EpiscopalianB, Presbyterians, and Methodists, two Friends, one Catholic, one Baptist. Two neat bridges and the rail-road viaduct span the streams. To the town is 14 feet depth of water ; to the mills eight feet. The coun- try ardund or adjacent is very attractive, and the springs at Brandy wine, five miles off, are of the chalybeate kind, and a popular place of resort in the warm season, with ample, spa- cious accommodations. The capacious stone hotel at the Chalybeate Spring is 460 feet above the Delaware; it can accommodate 300 persons ; its halls and chambers are large and airy, the mammoth dining-room has its windows from floor to ceiling, open on both sides, cool as though out doors, (a luxurious fe^'urd usually overlooked ;) its reading and ball- room are rendered attractive by a full supply of papers, and choice musicians ; it has bathing- houses, billiard-rooms, ball pin alleys, ornamented grounds, shaded walks, with cascades, fountains, and embowered streams, imparting a grateful cool- ness. Extensive stabling, covered carriage-houses, &c. are provided. The Philadelphia and Baltimore Rail-road is in two miles, with oranibusses in attendance ; carriages or sad- dle horses are ready for jaunts to the most interesting sites, either historical or picturesque. There are 40 schools in this city. There is a library of 3,000 volumes, four printing-offices and papers. The two boarding-schools for boys, with one for girls, owned by Friends, are of old date, and very celebrated. The city is furnished with water for families, on the plan of Philadelphia; the streets are likewise rectangular. It is a lively, pleasant residence, having its own steam-boats plying to the metropolis of Pennsylvania. The Christiana Creek is 20 miles long : the rail- road keeps near its border for five miles to Newport, where is a depth of water of nine feet, and to Chnstiana Bridge^ five miles on, is a depth of six feet. Here is a small hamlet of about 50 houses. Newark, five miles beyond, has the Delaware College and an academy; it is a pleasant, healthy site. In five miles be- yond we are at Elktoriy at the fork of the river, at the head of tide, 14 miles above its mouth at Turkey Point ; it has a court house, jail, and methodist.church ; is a neat quiet place. In six miles we are at the village of North- East, on a stream of that name; in three rniles we are at Charlestoui ; and in seven miles we reach the eastern or left bank of the noble Susquehannah, opposite Havre de Grace, just above its re- ception into theample bosom of the Chesapeake, that ex- \ \ 403 »to20 V many vania, tin ar- of the inocky rm its ^est of denta- iid fish de, but pposite ver the d in six I miles, having unsur- I many id spa- Ihaoge lies or I great Dliver, ny to •nd. teort of t Spar* le Bay ; I pointa tidy six, id nine, :, mouth .ock,2i, >rt nine, y Iii^land cbmond, Burrill's :, Wind- .0, War- hington, Bland IS, ek, near '12,Ro- rfolk 87, ' i ■ i V > .1 ^V; ! -t. Wi|pwJ'i'iPMp'^>tn^' MMli^* f*' A o 5 ■ i>i-?at»5^-t «§■ ^, ci^R. Si A §=K E B .ft , i'i vf *^>x-\ «. ' mm^mfmrni^fff^ i' -.^t-: A» : . -4. - 402 three e^ twoFi and tbj is 14 (i try art Brand^ popult cieus Chalyl accomi and airl h ^■■^s^.^-m floor toll li^N^ (aluxur) if / room arl \\ ■ •" choice ni pin alley fountain: /•, nesf, E . provided I'M- two mile.-^; fyv^ j • die horsci |« > j either h| I city. TK * "^- i;,.,. andpapl ^ N^ |(-*:, girls, oM jl 1: The citi i Philadei lively, p., to the ni' iHniIJi TheC k^' near its '<■• \o.i^ vrater of * |*;^ a depth Newar' an aca< yond tide, 14 house, j six m'lu of that I seven m Susqueh si ception a to it 1»«" 4,^14 «-*.U««(>',-J> *Ifc( , I. . ^VV '^t.. \ """V A vA; ".4. **-*«*f*Vi f ■""l>*'\ I , landed at North Point, 12 miles east of Baltimore, but were met by the American troops, principally composed of militia hastily collected from the city and vicinity. A battle ensued ; Gen. Ross was killed, and many lives were lost on both sides. There \a a handsome monument in Calvert-street, in memory of those citizens of Baltimore that fell in this engagement. Fort M'Henry was at the same time bombarded, but without any effect, when the fleet and army of the enemy retired. StuqutkaniMh Rail-road. m Siisquebannali RaiNroad. From Baltimore this road extends north 66 miles to York, thence east north-east lli^ miles to Wrightsville, on the Sus-> quehanuah River opposite Columbia, with which it is con> nected by a bridge one and a quarter miles long, and then reaches the Pennsylvania improvements of canal and rail- road to Pittsburgh, of 373 miles, and of rail-road to Philadel- phia 82 miles. Thus from Columbia it is 13 miles less dislancii to Baltimore than to Philadelphia. It leaves Baltimore from the dep6t in Cathedral-street, and strikes the Gunpowder about half a mile above Tyron*8 mill, and continues along the right or west bank of that stream to the forks; then follows the north branch as far as its junction with Bee Tree River, leaves this last stream at its source, and follows the Codorus to York. The rails on this road are xolid and much superior to some, and will be more durable. The grades are gentle, but in one place, for a short distance, the locos have ascended the un- heard-of acclivity of 84 feet in a mile, or in that proportion for a short distance, and a weight equal to 250 passengers, at a speed of seven miles an hour. The curves are slight, being, with but a few exceptions, over 1,000 feet radius. About five miles south of York, is a tunnel of 250 feet long. The branch of 11^ miles to VVrightsville, passes through a beautiful and fertile valley, and has gentle grades. From York there is also a rail-road to Gettysburgh ; and at Chambersburgh, 25 miles west of Gettysburgh, is a continuous line of rail-road, — the Cumberland Valley Rail-road, of 162 miles to Philadelphia, via Carlisle, Harrisburgh, and Lancas- ter, through in 10 or 12 hours, that will soon be extended over the magnificent barriers of the AUeghaniesto Pittsburgh, 162 miles west, thus making Gettysburgh the half way between Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, and the transit from the Dela- ware to the Ohio thus easily made in 20 to 24 hours. The engineers have ascertained that a track for this road can lie taken over the Cove Mountain, at a grade or elevation not over 50 feet to the mile, and that, by the same route, from Bedford to Philadelphia is 227 miles only. ,i ^HH 409 Itail-romd/rom Bmllimort to Wathington* Bail-road from Baltlniore toUTash- loKton* The rail-road from Baltitnoro to Washington starts from the general dep6t in Pratt-street, and foliows the same line as before described, in going to Eiiicott's mills, but diverges at Elkridge Landing at the mouth of the Patapsco, 10 miles, thence strikes off to the Savage Factory Branch, nine mileSf (with the divergence to Annapolis alluded to,) Vanns- ville eight, Bladensburg seven, Washington six ,<— total, 40 miles ; fare, $2. Here at present ends the progress of the raiUroad to the south or west ; the present route is by steam- boat down the Potomac to Fredericksburg,yirginia, 60 miles ; thence by rail-road through Virginia and North Carolina, a long stretch of 263 miles to Wilmington, on the coast of North Carolina, as more minutely described hereafter. Washington, the present seat of the National Government, is comprised in the area of 10 miles square, that was ceded by Maryland and Virginia to the United States in full sove- reignty when the archives And government were transferred from Philadelphia. The permanent population may amount to over 30,000 ; the transient population during the session of Congress adds much life, vivacity, gaiety, beauty, fashion, and display of ostentation and dissipation ; at other times, the city is dull, tame, vapid, and disagreeable. The Magnificent Capitol, the headquarters of the Repre- sentatives of the People and of the States, with its extensive library of 16,000 volumes, the surrounding and highly em- bellished grounds, tastefully laid out, and planted vi^ith trees, shrubbery, and exotics, native and foreign, guarded by an iron railing, is of itself an immense structure, to be ex- amined in detail from the crypt to the towering dome. The President's House, the curiosities in the'War and In- dian departments, the records and revolutionary documents in the Secretary of State's office, and the patents and curious machines and inventions, with a jaunt to Mount Vernon, Alexandria, the Falls of the Potomac, Georgetown, and the battle-grounds in the vicinitv, with many attractive views in the environs, are worthy of being souent out by all curious strangers. The navy yard is also entitled to attention. The Rotunda of the Capitol under the centre dome is paved with marble i it is 90 feet high and in diameter; the reverbe- places of ^vorshlp for Presbytenaris, two »or r^pwcuiialians, one each for Friends and Catholica; ita strceti and iquarM 36 uH 14 IS t •^mm^mm 'vi'riif--:- 4Cf3 >-»*•/. <■ ■iii.i a-*~ m I ^^'. 'i: /w / fl f- - "?F. V '■'■■'CT ' .1 ''A >i :t; M^f a ^ ktil \ \ ilO ,^ Gaorgetoten. are well arranged; much life, fashion, and .activity prevail here during the session of Congress in Washington; at other timet it is not so animated. The connection or extension of the rail- road from Fredericksburg through this place to Washington, thus completing the only link wanting, is most desirable for the public accommodation, and cannot long be withheld. Georgetown is a suburb of Washington, being separated from it only by Rock Creek, and the basin of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, on the banks of the Potomac. The popula- tion is about 9,600, It is three miles to the Capitol Hill. The edifices of the Catholic College of Georgetown are spacious and have 180 students. There is also a Nunnery of 60 in- mates, and a boarding-school of 120 young ladies. It is con« sidered healthy ; its site is elevated and pleasant. There are four churches,— ^Episcopal, Presbyterian, Baptist, Method- ist,— and a court-house and academy. A ride to the Falls of the Potomac^ 16 miles distant, is usu* ally made by strangers in the pleasant season, following the left bank and Chesapeake and Ohio Canal for five miles, and then crossing by a hanging bridge of 116 feet Jong acd 16 wide to the right. The trees seen are oak and hickory. The shores are rocky, with hills of agreeable undulation. Above the falls, the Potomac is a mile and a quarter wide; it soon contracts as it approaches the gorge and alters its direction. The rooks are of slate in strata, glossy, and sparkling. At the Falls the river is 1,160 feet wide, with several chutes raging and roaring in the depths and in various crevices; the de- scent of the full being about 40 feet. In the dry season the quantity of water here is very limited. The bed of the river bristling with dark rough rocks of a cavernous tortuous for- mation, in admired disorder, must in a full stage of water have a grand stunning effect, as beheld in safety from a se- cure position on the elevated precipice adjacent. bii Rail-road from Baltiiiiore to Annapolis. The rail-road from Baltimore to Annapolis pursues the Washington route to the 18th niile-stono, at a point 1G8 feet above tide; the line conforms to the waving nature of the ground near the creit or dividing ridge between the Patux- ent and Severn Rivers, passing from the Patapsco by Chand- ! ij I' Rail-road from Baltimore to Annapolis. 411 ler'8 or Dorset's Run, and through Rogue's Run, towards the Severn, spanning the former by a wooden trestle or pile bridge, and the latter bj a permanent embankment over a stone culvert. A singular feature of this country is, that the lateral ridges are higher than the main or dividing ridge, the level ground being on the summit of the plateau. The road diverges to the south-east, near the Savage factory and the valuable granite quarries of the Patuxent, and in the first mile crosses Chandler's Run. At the end of the third mile is a very narrow ledge, the outcropping of a conglomerate of pebbles united by a ferruginous cement, forming the basis of the country neur Dorsey's and Miller's ; here the high embankment spans the road and water-way, and at the deep cut at the sixth mile, near Watts* tavern, through a narrow sand ridge to the seventh mile deep cut, past Sappington's ; and in the next mile the deep cut of 20 feet is seen of 46,000 cubic yard:*, and strikes, in the ninth mile, Jay's branch, and ends on Dorsey's farm. The next division has 98,645 cubic yards of excavation and 101,808 cubic yards of embankment, ending in two and a half miles, near the primary school-house, the sun tavern, and post-office; then tbiluwti in two miles 115,200 cubic yards of embankment and 1 i2,000 cubic yards of excava- tion, ending opposite Inglehart's house ; thence in A)ur and a half miles it ends in the upper part of West Annapolis. The approach to Annapolis is peculiarly fine. The length from the radiating point on the Washington road is 19| miles, or 28 miles from Baltimore. Cost ^350,000. The population of the capital or seat of State government is 2,700; ' s public buildnigs are the state-house, where Gen. Washington resigne dence. From Woodstock to New Market is a rough road ; her* is a neat Episcopal church and 100 houses. The road con- tinues rather rough for SO miles to Harrisonburg, that has SUtunton. ■*, 417 1,000 inhabitants; the houses most of wood, some of stone; the country well cleared and cultivated, but hilly, the road passes many brooks and rapid clear torrents, and crosses the Shenandoah near its source. Travelers taking this road far us Harrison, that do not desire to visit Staunton or keep on by the main valley road, but to arrive at the fashionable springs by the most direct road, they can save 12 miles by leaving Staunton to the cast, and keeping to the mail road to tht- warm springs. Har« rison to Frazer's is 22 miles, good road in forest or open plain. Stauntoriy Virginia, the capital of Ans^ustn county, is en- vironed by wood«clad hills, has 2,500 inhabitants, three places of worship, an academy, court-house, and jail ; is a healthy site, a place of trade, especially as u flour mart, for consider- able extent; it is nearly in the centre of this great agri- cultural state, 120 miles west of Richmond, near one of the sources of the James River. The traveling is great on the road that radiates from this to the succession of noted springs, the Warm and Hot, the Blowing Cave, the White, Sweet, Grey, Red, and Salt Sulphur Springs, all being west and south-west of Staunton ; also Peter's Mount Lake, Parisbut^ Marshall's Pillar, and the Falls on New River. The Cumberland Gap, and Grotto with the Great Tunnel^and the Vast Arch in Scott County, over the vale, of several hundred feet in height, width, depth, and length, is so gigantic that, in comparison, the famou^ "nd well known Natural Bridge in Rockbridge County dwino ^ to insignificance in its dimen- sions. It is near Clinch Rivt , in the south-west angle of the State, between Jonesville ann Estilville. From Staunton, through Fair field, 2'^ miles, and Lexington 11 miles, and also the road to the Natural Bridge, we see many neat country houses of the Virginia gentry. Another road may be taken, through Middlebrook and Brownsburg, to Lexington; but this also in places is rough or uncomfortable : distance not varying far. Wier^s Cave is 18 miles from Staunton, by a decent coun- try road, pervadin^a hilly woody region, underlaid by lime- stone, that is to protrude through the soil. It is ren* dered lively jy n abundance of game, clear sparkling streams, miSlp ;, , The road to Charlottesville, 32 miles, is by the Rock Jtj iap, over the Blue Ridge, with scanty evi- dences of population, wealth, comfort, or improvement. The lii ^ .^a^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ltt|28 M U III 1.6 V] (5^ /^ ^> '^#< ."<-> O / /A Photographic Sciences Corporation i3 .,"? MAIN STREET WEBSrER,N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 ^A -Li, ;*.,,»■ 418 CharloUettiUe Uniternty. ascent of the mountain is easy ; the view from its summit commanding o'er hill and dale; the trees are oaka, nuts, oc juglans in variety, firs, larches, acacias, pines, with the ad- mired rhododendrons and creeping wild vines. Charlottesville University is placed on an eminence, form- ing a conspicuous object from afar, having a view of the Blue Bidge, Monticello, &c. It was founded in 1824, and was the cherished offspring of the sage of Monticello in his latter years. The buildings consist of a central edifice, with a pan- theon-shaped dome ; the ten other small college buildings are arranged on each side. From the hill of Monticello, the for- er abode of the Yjr* ginia philosopher, we are sufficiently ne and elevated to look down and watch over the university, or to penetrate the val- ley of the Rivanna, and the low, subsiding, tamer re^^ion : to- ward the sea coast the view is boundless. It is 65 miles hence to Richmond. The road for a Hew miles is on the north bank of the Rivanna, that soon joins the James ; a portion of the road is hilly or over causeways, but it improves as we proceed ; the canal and river being in sight for the latter part of the ride over a loamy or sandy region, with but few settlements. ' To revert in due course to our line of travel in the interior valley of Virginia : — the road from the JNatural Bridge to Fin- castle 34 miles, then west to Union, of!ers itself across the mountains, or from Staunton 52 miles to the Gap in the Short Mount, then taking the springs in succession to the south-west for 60 miles. Tho distances on the main central road, south-west from Staunton, through Virginia and East Tennessee, are as follows : to Greenville 12 miles, Fairfield 12, Lexington 11, Natural Bridge 15, Pattonsburg 10, Fin- castle 12, Amsterdam four, Salem 18, Christicinsburg 27, Newbern 17, Evanshaw 28, Pleasant Hill 15, Seven Mile Ford 18, Abingdon 23, Blountsville 24, Kingsport 14, Sur- geonville 17, Roger's 10, Bean's Station 18, Holsion, on the Rutledgc, nine, Blair's Cross Roads 12, Knoxville 21. Taking our departure from Staunton, in a westerly direc- tion, we arrive in three or four hours* ride at the base of the Short Mountain ; here we intersect the road from the north- east to Borth-west, and pursue the latter course, that in due time brings us to the Cow Pasture River, a head branch of the James. Cloverdalo h a good resting or refreshment-place. To FrsEier'a is 14 miles, thence to Lange's (a rich French Hotel) ^HP Warm Springs'-^ Hot Springs* ^1» 28; the road is recent, but toleroble ; over the ridgei it is fine, made easy of ascent by skilful grades and the art of the en- gineer, leading from the planes along the side hills by exca* vatin^ the soil or rock, throwing it to the lower side, and building up a wall or allowing the primitive forest trees to remain, forming the only but inefficient skirt or xcreen to veil or guard on the side towards the sheer descent. A walk, up or down these exciting places, is recommended as a matter of sectirity or safe enjoyment. From the verge of the heights, in crossing the diflferent gaps, is overlooked a vast expanse of mountains, vales, rocks, forests, scantily intermixed with the woodman's hut or cabin, or the spacious erections, or brood of small tenements, clus- tering about the vicinity of the various seats of hygeian re- sort In the vales below. The steep acute angles or sudden turns of the road are startling in a rapid descent in the stage or coach, as the least restiveness in the horses or lack of skill in the driver leads to fatal results ; yet the keen excitement this momentarily produces keeps one on the qui vive— the gentlemen ready for a spring, the ladies for a scream of alarm or admiration ; yet after the danger is passed, who but considers these adven- tures as among the essential ingredients of a pleasant summer excursion, leaving the most lasting impressions on the ima- gination. By tracing a line on the map of Virginia, from Bath, in Morgan county, and through the State in nearly a south-west course to Blountsville, Tennessee, most of the celebrated springs or natural curiosities herein described or referred to may be readily found, as being near or bordering it within 50 miles. The mineral and thermal waters are found usually on the western slopes of the ridges or in elevated valleys; this is the case with the warm and all the sulphur springs, that also discharge by the waters of the Ohio valley ; the exception to this rule is the Hot Spring, that is but five miles from the Warm, and discbarges on the east slope by the James River. The constant temperature of the Warm Springs is 96^, or blood heat ; the area, 114 feet in circumference, is transparent as air; the whole is enclosed ; there are dressing-rooms, and istcps to descend to the surface to any depth desired. The Hot Springs are reached by an hour's ride, or an easy healthy foot excursion over the intervening mountain, when the cluster of cabins and the hotel are seen skirting the op- i 430 ,ij. Sulphur Springi* posing «vood>^clad elevation, with a smiling green vale adja« cent. This spring is of the high temperature of 106°. It is brought in a tube to play on the body or limbs with power- ful effect. The accommodations are ample. This is in- creasing in popularity. Leaving the Warm Springs, the tavern of Shumates is 14 miles. Plum's, late Callaghan's, next occurs, 18 miles from White Sulphur, in the valley of the Green Brier, a branch of the Kenawha, 90 miles long. The vicinity of this spring is obvious to the olfactory sense from its Harrowg&te'like of- fensive smell; its pure, limpid gushing water is elegantly enclosed in slabs of white marble seven feet long, five feet wide, and five deep, as it bursts out of the rock below. Over it is a dome with a wooden statue of the goddess of health strangling a serpent, or preparing to dose it with a bowl of the medicinal waters; the moral of this maybe surmised. The tout ensemble of this watering-place and focus of fashion is unique and striking; the exit and entrance being con- cealed by over-lapping hills or gorges emanating from this small but secluded vale of healing fountains; as usual, here is a main edifice with several rows of lodging-rooms ; some trees and formal dusty walks, and rides of great attraction up and around the hills. To Lewisburg, nine miles west of White Sulphur, is a most commendable ride over the hills, and the Green Brier River; the road good, redolent of beauty and attraction in its scenery. If the courts are in session, perhaps some of the eloquent members of the Virginia Bar may be heard. In eight miles are the Falls of the New River, near the base of the White Top and Flat Mountains, of exceeding height and beauty. From the White Sulphur to Sweet Spring is only eight miles direct, but 16 by the crooked road over the principal dividing ridge of the Alleghanies, or back-bone of the United States ; its utmost crest is gradually and easily attained. This is on the identical chain as the Hot Spring described. The Sweet Spring throws out a heavy volume of water of 70^ temperature. This has been frequented many years, as seen I at once by the time-worn aspect of the hamlet. From the Sweet Spring the road leads to Union, in Mon- roe County ; then past the Organ Cave to the Salt Sulphur, 24 miles from White Sulphur, by a road in and along the channel of a stony creek, through forest and wild dell. The .»•'♦■ Snlphur Spring»» 411 StU Sulphur is on the west or fashionable slope of a noun* tain, similar to the Warm and White Sulphur. Its qualitiea are purgative; the table is most liberal!/ furnished; the dining-hali airy, lofty, and pleasantly fanned in southern style. Near by is an auxiliary Sweet Sulphur Spring. Ac« commodations for 250. Hence to Red Sulphur is IS miles, in part on a narrow roof-iike ridge, looking down on either side into a deep plunging vale far beneath ; then taking to the level of a creek, and following it some miles to the Red Sulphur, one of the choice retreats of the chain of wonderful Sulphur fountains, here seen in a well six by five, and four deep, cased in mar- ble, temperature 54*^. Its qualities are diuretic and aperient. The pink colored tinge of the water is the cause of the name of this spring. There are three hotels and three rows of cabins. The Qr,, „, ,,v. • v •.....•■ .i ■ >- ,--;r-^ -<...- r^, -■ •' %. > \ Carrolton Viaduct. 423 flio isit ii le of le As tho most expensive portion of this rail-road occura within 20 miles of tho city, those persons desirous of seeing the Carrolton and Thomas Viaducts, the great embankments, spacious culrerts, &c. ns exhibited on this line, that has the merit of taking the lead of all others as to the magnitude or importance of the undertaking at that period (1828^ when it was commenced, should, if practicable, make a special trip, to devote the requisite time or minute attention required for the satisfactory examination of the various details; otherwise the transient, unsatisfactory glance acquired when the train passes is but momentary, and inadequate to acquire that dis- tinct or vivid impression justly demanded. When all is ad- justed, moving from the de|)6tin Pratt-street slowly through 'the city and suburbs, until the cars are secured to receive the impulse of the steam-power, that soon gives a fearful veloci- ty, we are fairly on the way to the interior. Tho Carrolton Viaduct^ a mile from the city, crossing Gwynn's Falls, is 312 feet long, 63 feet high, 26 wide; the principal arch 80 feet span, 47 above the water; the whole structure is of the most magnificent, massive, durable de- scription, built of dressed granite. It was named after the oldest surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence of the United States in 1776, Charles Carroll, under whose auspices this work was opened with much ceremony. The Great Embankment at Gadsby's Run, five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in length ; its greatest elevation 66 feet ; the viaduct over the same stream is an arch built, in a massive style, of granite. In passing over this stupendous embankment we lose the distant view of this city of domes, towers, and monuments, and for the pre^-ent bestow our at- tention on the scenes rapidly passing on each side, that soon display to our view the branch rail-road, that here diverges from our route, as it proceeds to the citjr of Washington, 30 tniles to the south-west, across the beautiful l%omas viaduetf one of the most strJVing erections on the entire line, seen to infinite advantage and with admiration as it spans the vale of the Patapsco, 10 miles from Baltimore, where a sudden bend to our right in a north-west direction enables us for a moment to behold the graceful viaduct as we leave it on our left, and plunge into the lovely valley of the Patapsco, that for a few miles rivets our admiration with its richly wooded banks rising on either side to a towering elevation, appa ren'.ly of several hundred feet. ■■- .-^■■■r-^^r^..:^,',-*- ( f 4t4 Patapteo Valley^ We proceed up the charming Patapico Valley, skirting with increased velocity near the foot of the lofiy hill, that has been blasted to alloiv grudgingly a scanty road-way to be preserved, barely adequate to prevent the cars from com- ing in collision with the ragged spurs or projections, that by their sharp angles are almost brushed within a hair's breadth as the train is urged madly on, apparently, in its frightful ca- reer of most alarming ppeed, followivug a tortuous course, that is too dangerous to permit the admiration of the features of the picturesque to intrude. We continue on embosomed among lofty hills, in proximi- ty to the brawling turbuleM' stream that is crossed to the south side before arriving at the watering station at £llicott*8 mills. The series of milis and snug cottages nestled in this exquisite valley, the succession of rapids, chutes, tumbling foaming waters, the changing features, receives the unquali- fied admiration of travelers. The citizens of Baltimore can here revel amid the refreshing sights of this fairy creation. Foreigners and visiters should not omit to behold this wild, varied, and most delightful scenery. At 13 miles from the city are many large manufactories and flouring establish- ments near a commodious hotel ; and several hours may here be enjoyed, romping and ruralizing, scrambling up the wind- ing paths to a giddy height, and wandering amongst fantas- tic rocks overhanging the road and river beneath ; near by is the Paterson Viaduct^ that is constructed of huge blocks of granite, has four arches, besides wings and abutments ; it is 375 feet long. The surface of the country between the valley of the Pa- tapsco and Frederick is satisfactory: the land is good, farms well cultivated, the houses comfortable or handsome, with an aspect of long settlement. The cuts along the railroad occasionally expose masses of that pudding-stone, as seen in a polished state in the handsome columns of the chamber of the House of Representatives at Washington. As the valley of the Patapsco is ascended gradually, but insensibly at the rate of 18 feet to the mile, (see page 412) ihe stream lessens in volume and force, or is for a time lost to the view, being shrouded by impending trees or thick shrub- bery; in dashing through and under these o'er arching, ver- dant passages, the fiery smoking engine vomits from its chimney a galaxy of sparks with lurid flames as it impetu- ously darts under the low branches of the woods into the ; no;^, Frederick. 435 deep shadows of the forest, transiently lighting up the sombre gloom with the sudden glare of an illumination. So abrupt are the curves, the radius of the road so adjust- ed in many places, that during the wriggling progress of a long train, winding like the path of a snake over ihe surface of the ground, the passenger seated in the rear car is fearful of the dangerous consequences momently threatened if the locomotive engine should swerve from the track ; the most rueful accidents of that nature are liable to ensue on such ill-made meandering rail- ways. K The rapid diminution of the stream as we trace along its banks towards Parr's Spring and Ridge is evident to the eye of the most careless observer; the dividing ridge formerly was passed by horse-power, but recent improvements have obviated this detention ; the entire distance from the city of Baltimore to Frederick is performed in four to five hours. This is the capital of Frederick County; its population is above 7|000; it has seven or eight places of public worship, a court-house, market, jnil, and academy ; its houses of the better class are of stone or brick ; the streets are regular, its situation pleasant ; it is an important flour mart or place of general trade for a certain district of rich agricultural coun* try ; the site is healthy, being near the base of the first ranges of mountains that are encountered on leaving this settlement. It is 47 miles from Baltimore, 44 from Washington. The branch rail-road to Harper's Ferry on the Potomac is passed to the left just before arriving here. Stages or cars are found in readiness, time only barely allowed to snatch a hasty meal, ere the startling sound '* The stage is waiting, gentlemen," hurries every one away grum- bling or dissatisfied ; but all is soon forgotten, both host or dinner, as the Gatoctin Mountain, with the bold majestic blue rid^e, here called unmeaningly the South Mountam, rises in all Its glory before the traveler, as one of the grand, ever- lasting barriers of this continent. The next 27 miles to Hagarstown is amidst a luxuriant, fertile country in the heart of Maryland, in the County of Washington, and nearly parallel with the Potomac River and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, that subsequently is side by side for several miles before arriving at Hancock^s TotDti. The underlying strata of blue limestone pervades this dis- trict of country, that sends annually to Baltimore more than 100,000 barrels of the best flour. 36* 1 ^ \i \. I i 4S6 HdgartUmn--Haneo€kitoum. The road from Frederick to Cumberland ii an excellent macadamized turnpike, the surface material bein^ for more than 60 miles the same kind uf blue limestone. 58 miles of this part of the road was ordered bj the Legislature of Mary • land to be made by the banks in Baltimore and three other baoki in the western districts of that Stale, on the same con- itruction as the national road, as a condition of the renewal of their charters in 1814 ; the average cost was over $8,000 a mile, the banks being permitted to establish tojl-jatea. Hagarstown la the county seat of the County of Washing- ton, 71 miles from Baltimore, 63 from Washington, has several churches, a court house, jail, market, a bank ; most of the buildingp are of a substantial character, of brick or stone ; near it, on Antietam Creek, are several mills. Its trade is considerable, its vicinity fertile ; population over 3,000. From Hagarstown to Williamsport is nine miles in a south- west direction to the Potomac River, thence crossing the Conocoeheague Creek, the road for 27 miles is along the north side of the Potomac River, with the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in view to Hancockstown,* where Pennsylvania and Virginia (a i.Trrow part of Maryland intervening) ap- proach within three miles. The Tusearora Mountain cem- presses on the north side of the river close upon Hancock, and admits but a narrow space for the windings or acclivities of the road ; the south bank of the Potomac appears dense- ly and beautifully wooded, and is pretitnted in all its attrac- tions to the spectator. From HancockstowQ to Cumberland is 39 long miles, that are consumed in passing over several mountain ridgea of ■tupendous magnitude, such as Sideling Hill, Rugged and EviWs JVfoutttoin, and others, with the intervening valleys, hills, or plains ; here will be enjoyed all the picturesque or striking features of the Alleghanien ; travelers among them in the western Counties of Pennsylvania, Maryland, or Vir- ginia, will notice the manner the streams find their way amid the parallel ridges that extend from north-east to sooth-west, that are parted to let the small streams pass, that after find- : * Six miles tVom Hancock, on the opposite south side of the Potomae, is Bath, with its warm waters, good hotels, shady, agreeable walks, or rides in a hilly, romantic tract, admired by the gentry of the vicinity, and the Baltimoreans. The accommodations ar^ said to be good. It is 36 miles to Winchester, with a small tavern in 18 miles on an elevation, with a dense forest surrounding, tempting the traveler to repose. /*v |!h&ny County, Maryland, the traveler is impressed with the fact that he is on the Simplon of America, that, with its sur- face of iron-like solidity, unites in bonds of amity, peace, and commerce the social intercourse with the family interests of the great communities of the States on both sides of the monntain border. The location or line of this road is creditable to the United States engineers : the contour is admirable : to geoloj^ists it roust be interesting, as it presents a profile section across the entire range of Alleghanies, clinginar on one side to the mountains that in some places rise fnr above the traveler, while on the other is a dangerous precipice, ready to engulf the unwary traveler that approaches its brink. In many places on the Savage Mountain the side presents a mural front of sand stone in layers, resembling regular masonry, and in parts the summit appears to be actually flagged with sand-stone; some of the slabs seem as true as if dressed for pavements in cities: they are of granular quartz, strongly coherent, of a light pearl color, that when pulverized is nearly as white as snow. There are extensive settlements along the whole line of the road ; not a tract of table land, gentle slope, valley, or wide glen, but is under cultivation. Vast quantities of bitu- minous coal of the best quality are on the banks of the Yougheogeny and Moftongahela Rivera, and the grandeur of the natural scenery in crossing from Baltimore to the Ohio will always be a source of gratification to the naturalist, the tourist, and to those that admire the wild scenes of our country. Cumberland^ the county seat of A''eghany county, Mary- land, is on the Potomac, at the junction of Will's Creek, that comes from the north alonsr the base of Will's Mountain. 148 miles from Baltimore, 155 from Washington. It has three churches, one each for Catholics, Methodists, Lutherans; also a court>house,jail, market, and a bank; inexhaustible beds of capital bituminous coal are near it, ready to be transported < I * » 428 Biuk Bone or Savage Mountain, down the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal to tide-water in the district of Columbia; these mines are owned by eastern capitalists, and destined soon to be introduced in the Atlan- tic market. There were formerly 300 houses in this place, but in 1833 a portion of them were destroyed by fire. We here take leave of the Potomac and the streams run- ning to the esstern coast, as the next waters encountered in our western course will be those of the Yougheogeny and Monongahela, running northerly, and forming tributaries of the Ohio at Pittsburgh. We have now to surmount the grei^ dividing ridge or Back Bone Mountain that separates here the eastern fVom the western system of rivers. On leaving Cumberland, the great National Road soon enters on an ascent that follows the gorge or narrowSf on crossing the capital bridge over Will's Creek, (a fair speci- men of the excellent masonry of those structure* on this en- tire road.) The Back Bone or Savage Mountain is passed at a gap or depression with ease and security ; the view when at the sum- mit, 3,000 feet above tide, is truly grand, and when on the en- suing ranges, the retrospective view of this towering sierra is of infinite sublimity. The distances as we proceed are, to Mount Pleasant 10 miles, thence to Petersburg over the Pennsylvania line '2b miles of rough-looking country ; four miles beyond we are at Smithfield on the Yougheogeny River, thence to Union is 21 miles, and 12 more brings us to BrownswiUe on the Monon- gahela, from whence, in a full stage of water, large boats that are built here are sent 60 miles down to Pittsburgh, or ply on the Ohio or Mississippi. To Centreville is five miles, Beal's- ▼ille three, Hillsboro three, Washington 12, Martinsburg five, Claysville four, West Alexandria six, thence we descend n hill rapidly and continue along the valley of Wheeling Creek 16 miles to Wheeling. > Several miles before entering the city, at the cross roads or junction of two branches of ttie creek, is a pedestal with a figure of Fame, and tablets descriptive of the national road, its builders, or projectors. From this point the road ascends for five miles to the sharp summit of the hill that overlooks the smoky city below. The manner in which the road is cut out of the solid limestone rock, that rises steeply on one side, and the parapet that defends it an the other, with the heavy wall built up from the depth below, exhibits the skill of the Inland Route from Baltimore to New Orleans. 499 «Qgineer and cf the workmen engaged in the construction, and the lavish expenditure of the national trnaiure bestowed upon this road in this spct, and also on tho whole route, in a •eries of years, from 1802, amounting in the aggregate to two or three millions of dollars. This road is now m the posses- ■ion of the States of Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia, with power to establish gates and receive toils, tf^ keep the road in repair. , _, .., , ^,„ Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. It begins at Georgetown, at the head of tide, and is to ter- minate on the Ohio at the moui'h of Wheeling Creek, oi at Pittsburgh, to be 60 to 80 feei wide at top, 50 tieet at bottom, six to seven feet deep — 341 miles Hong — to have branches to Alexandria, to the Navy-Yard, and Baltimore — chartered by Virginia, Maryland, and Congress in 1824-5 — commeneed ■n 1828— finished to Cumberland, on the Potomac. Its (inai completion is very distant. ,, ,, . . , , , Main Southern inland Route from Balti- more or l¥ashfinirton through Virginia and the Carolinas, Georgia and Alaba- ma to Montgomery, Pensacola» Iflobile, and Ncur Orleans. '.M,; The route down the Chesapeake by steam-boat, from Bal- timore to Norfolk, thence to Richmond, has been given, (see page 403,) but as many travelers hav^. a strong aversion to any water conveyance, from the casualties felt or feared, and also desiring to see the inland towns, setllameRts, or cities, manners, customs, et-cetera, as now perfected or perma- nently fixed for several hundred miles south of Fredericks- burgh, th«y will find such a route hero detailed. ^ As to the exact time required by tho routes respectively, either from Baltimore or Washington, to the place of inter- section of the rail-roads from the north and east at the Roanoke River at Weldon, there cannot be much variation in time ov expense ; being by steam-boat tc Norfolk, and rail- road via Portsmouth to Weldon 287 miles, 20 hours to I i 430 Central Route to ike Virginia Springe, 8fe. Norfolk, Tare $8 00, or up to Richmond by steamboat, fiire $4 00. On the inland route it is 264 milea ; the first 60 being by steam>boat from Washington, down past Alexandria and IVlount Vernon, on the Potomac River to the landing at the Potomac Creek, thence by rail-road from Fredericksburg to Weldon on the Roanoke, 150 miles. Expense of rail-ruad and steam-boat $13 00, (fare $2 00, Baltimore to Washing- ton, and 40 miles distance to be added.) As to the fatigue incurred on the two routes, there is no loss of sleep on the Chesapeake, or up tho James River to Richmond. The coast down the bay is low and tame, almost losing sight of the shore, or only beholding it from point tn point, or as a line of trees peering above the briny flood, until Hearing the fortifications in the lower part of the bay, at old Point Uomfort, and the Rip Raps, that it is desirable to view as military positions of the utmost importance. By the route down the Potomac, four hours' sleep may per- haps be enjoyed, with as much dozing in the cars as may hrt agreeable from Fredericksburg to Richmond, or Petersburg to the Roanoke. Take care, in the outset, of all impositions from agents or scouts acting for opposite lines, either in Bal- timore or Washington; and especially to make all possible inquiry trom the best sources ; and in paying the fare re- serve the privilege of having it refunded, if desiring to tarry on tho way, or else pay only from town to town, or by short stations, so as not to be hurried past places of importance, exciting useless regret or chagrin. Passengers from the north leave Washington city every evening at half-past six o'clock in the steam-boat for Fre- dericksburg, arrive in six hours; thence by the rail-road cars, via Junction to Louisa Court House, and by coach to Char- lottesville. Arrive at the Junction by four o'clock A. M. rest four haunt till eight o^cloek A. M. and arrive at Charlottesville titxt morning at three o^ clock ,' at Staunton by 11 o'clock the same rooming, and proceed in tho line of Messrs. Porter and Boyd to Cloverdaie the samo day ; breakfast tho next morn- ing at the Warm Springs, arrive et the Hot Springs the samo morning about 11 o'clock, and at the White Sulphur Springs early in the afternoon of the same day. Passages may be taken to Charlottesville on board the steam-boat, or at the rniUroad dep6t, Fredericksburg. From the end of tho rail-road to Charlottesville is 26 miles. Prgdericktburg, 431 Two dtily tind a tri-weekly line of itage^coachef run hence to the ipringi. Central Route to the Virginia Sprtags. From Frederickiburg to Lynchburr, via Richmond, tho^ fare paid through is $12 00, or $9 60 from the latter. Fredericksburg (opposite Falmouth, on the north bank) has 3,500 inhabitants, is on the south bank of the Rap- pahannock River, on elevated ground, very conspicuous, striking the traveler from the north as having the aspect of an eastern city from the neatness of the streets, the brick buildings, gardens, with the high cultivation seen in the town and suburbs. It is near the head of navigation, 110 miles from the mouth of the river; in a rich fertile, well cul- tivated country, famous for its crops of corn, flour, tobacco, or other produce, here exported to the value Of four millions of dollars a year. It has a court-house and jail, being the capital of Spotsylvania County; there are two banks, an academy, and several churches; one of them contains a handdome monument to the memory of the *' Mother of Washington." This is the northern neck of Virginia, between the Potomac and Rappahannock ; it has produced many dis- tinguished men. Leaving Fredericksburg, the traveler enters upon the grand raiZ-roadand central route through Virginia ana North Caro- lina, and is smoothly whirled along at his ease, making south latitude at the rate of 10 to 15 miles an hour, passing in 20 miles a corner of Spotsylvania and Caroline Counties, and several head branches of the Mattahony, that falls into York River 50 miles south-east. Towards the Potomac River the country is flat and sandy, with a dreary aspect for miles of extensive plains and worn-out fields, exhausted by tobacco, overrun with sedge of a green or yellow color, dotted with pine and cedar trees by way of contrast. As we proceed south, we gradually And ourselves penetrating the region of pines, that almost exclusively holds possession of the sea- bordering plain of Virginia and the Carolinas. Leaving Caroline, we cross the Pamunkey, or North Anna, that also unites with the York at the confluence of the Mattahoney, ««d are in Hanover County ; thence across the Chickabema- m ^fr^r Riclimtmi* nia, a branch of the James River, when we are in Henricff County, and in eight miles further at the city of Richmond, near the falls on the James River at the head of tide, 150 miles above its mouth, or 60 above City Point. At Richmond, Virginia, the James at Fredericksburg, the Rappahannock at Petersburgh, the Appomattox and the Roanoke at and above Weldon, have falls or rapids that are but partially used, in comparison with the heavy water power that may be commanded at these several points, and that will sooner or later be subservient to the arts, the industry, and the manufactures of a great and populous nation, when pro- perly directed to these objects. At each of these interesting and important points the rail« road on this route crosses at or near ihe rapids, thus giving the scientific traveler or geologist a hasty view as he passes over the spacious viaducts that span tho noble streams in Virginia and the Carolinas. The places above referred to are also noted flour markets or dep6ts of grain from the in< terior, and the outlets of large sections of the neighboring country between the Blitt Ridg* and the head of tide water} and being near great falls in each stream, it seems designed by nature that large manufacturing or commercial pktcea should arise from the combined facilities here presented ; why they should have been so long overlooked is surprising, and only to be attributed to the indisposition of the people to embark in trade and manufactures. A few flouring mtJls on a large scale seem to engross and comprise the whole of the manufacturing industry of these Virginia CUiea of the Falls., Richmond appears to advantage as it is approached on either side, being on a gradual rise from the river to the sunn mit, that is crowned by the Capitol and handsome public and private edifices; these, with the bridges and viaduct connect- ing with the opposite side, produce an imposing appearance* The city contains over 20,000 inhabitants, including an equal number of whites and slaves, and is a place of much trade, a port of entry, and has a concentration of business, owing to the canal and rail-roads pervading the State. It has two streets that are parallel with the river, and other* of less note. The main street is a mile long, with paved side walks of brick. Coal or pine being the fael used, the tinge of the smoke is evident. The ezpendituresof this State within, ten years for internal improvements have been liberal and judicious, and made to tt Southern Route to Ihe Virginia Springi. 433 centralize upon this position ; this has aided mucb to increase the wealth and prosperity of this metropolis of the old do- minion. The natural beauties of the environs, its finely wooded eminences, the islands and rocky shores, and on- structions in the river, that add life and animation to the scene, have been recently developed in the grandest and most effective manner, from the costly and magnificent Via- ducty that connects the city with the south shore by 22 mas- sive stone piers resting on solid rock under the bed of the stream ; the rail- road cars passing at a height of 40 feet above, the width of the river being 900 feet, the whole forming one of the most expensive and imposing artificial erections in the southern Stales. Bituminous coal, pine and other wood found in abundance near, can be cheaply delivered in the city and to the various fHCtoriea that the water-power derived from the canal and river has tended to establish. There are eight locks of 10 feet each, and a canal basin for boats. Bolow the locks is a wooden bridge crossing the river to a smalt island &nd public garden; about it is a ledge of rocks and a small rapid ; others occur beyond. The James River Canal and slackwater na- vigation extend for 220 miles up the interior. <: There are ten places of public worship; one of them, of chaste, striking, and elegant stj^le of architecture, contains a monument erected upon the site of the former theatre, that was destroyed by fire in 1820, when 70 or 80 persons pe- rished: the new court-house is a handsome structure; the penitentiary and State armory are extensive and appropri* ate. The classical edifice that is used by the Legislature has eight Ionic columns of wood (those of the four Doric col- umns of the massive court-house are of stone;) it is visible from afar, and forms the principal feature as we approach. Here is a statue of Washington, that was taken from life, (by Houdon, an Italian artist;) it is esteemed the best extant. The ■>. Wednefldajr, and Friday, renting at night, reaching hynth* burg the next evening, and the subsequent day to and acro«» the Blue Ridge; the lofty acuminated Pea^^ ox Conea of Otter being in sight, towering 4,000 feet above the vale with much grandeur. The Balceny Fallt and the Blue Ridge Canal are seen in passing through the gap io She Natural Bridge in Rockbridge County. In 20 miles is Harris hotel, a first-rate house, and a farm of 750 acres and appurtenances, all abounding in the comforts of life. Columbia is at the raouth of the Rivanna; up its valley is the road to Char" Jottesville and Monticello. Raine's lavern, 70 miles from Hichmottd, is a resting or halting- place for stages east or tvest. The road now is compact; rocks are seen in 12 mile» to Newitone^ thence n miles to Patterson's the undulations of the road increase, as doe« the scenery in romantic beauty and interest; the next 10 miles to Ghitlow'a, and 17 more to* JLofnchburg, that is beheld on the south side of Jamea River, in descending a hill and across the valley, it rises in terrace form ; the streets are iMconvenient in acclivity; its houses are of brick ; the streets are paved ; fountains-of water on the hill are used to supply the eitizens ^ population 6,000. Wheat^ flax, hemp, flour, tobacco, are concentrated here, and find their way down to tide by the canal. It is also a hog or pork mart. There are four churches, several hotels^the Franklin, by Morris, and others. At Lynchburg there are two bridges oyer the river. The ware-houses for receiving tobacco or flour are large and indi' cate much trade; also manufactories of cotton^ woollen, ^, In its vicinity are four mineral springs. It is 21 miles to the great Fails, 10 miles in the outset being to the first gap at Davis' Hotel, on very elevated ground ; a part of the road is* on the south bank of the James before reaching the ferry,, and crossing it to the north and topping the Sue Ridge. Here, as in previous crossings of the gaps, are beheld the roost splendid bird's-eye views of the deep valley below ; the river, as it breaks, foaming and glistening over the rocks ^ with the winding canal, and a panorama of lof^y wood-clad mountains ; the same sensation* of fear, terror, admiration, and affright are inflicted (as before felt) by Ihe ingenuity of the engineer in farming the road, in lt» ending at abrupt angles, that seem unguarded from the rapid velocity of the heavy descending vehiiclt ; but whilf the heart faila and quails, the danger is past and we breathe in safety. Darst'» Petertburgh^ The Roanoke Riter. 4H extensive hotd is at the foot of the mountain and eight miles from the Naturd Bridge, and to reach it walking i« preferable to rough riding in carriages. The road from this to Fincastle, Blountsville, Khozville, connects with stage lines, via Nashville to Memphis, on the Mississippi, or to Huntsville, and Atabana, Arkan- flas, &c. As we resume our great southern route, on leaving Rich- mond and crossing to Manchester on the opposite side of the river, we are in Chesterfield County, and pass succes- sively Falling and Swift Creeks, the latter a branch of the Appomatex, and we soon are at Petertburg^ in Dinwiddie County, 27 miles south of Richmond ; here are falls that are used, as at Richmond and Fredericksburg, for milling and flour making. A canal also extends around the falls to faci- litate the trade up the country, and cheapen the expense of taking from distant parts the heavy articles of wheat, flour, tind tobacco, the staples of this State. The population of this city is about ten thousand. Vessels of 100 tons can reach here, but ships only to City Point, 13 miles below on iames River. Passing on for 30 miles over runs or creeks that join the Nettowtijf River, a branch of the Cfwwan, that falls into Al- bemarle Sound, we are in Greenville County, and next cross, after several small runs, the Meherrin, also a branch of the Chowan, then through or near Hick ford, we cross Fontaine's Creek, and soon after the line of Virginia and North Caro- lina, and are in Northampton County ; and in 10 miles further we are un the banks of the Roanoke River, at Weldon, and coon intersect the Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail-road^ tltat extends north-east 86 miles to the Chesapeake Bay, at Ports- mouth and Norfolk. The Roanoke is one of the largest rivers in the southern States, and has its head springs amid the loftiest mountains in Virginia and North Carolina ; it collects and discharges from its prolonged course of 400 miles a most turbulenn mass of waters, that reaches Albemarle Sound at the confluence of Chowan River, 80 miles below Weldon, and the falls at the head of tide. Halifax is seven miles below the Falls, and to this point vessels of &0 tons burthen can reach-, a canal opens the na- vigation for 130 miles beyond the great falls above Weldon. The Viaduct over the Roanoke at Weldon is another i: ; 436 ■s*'4!i,' jv •; ."a WUmingion. h^H. splendid construction, honorable to its projectori, to the mil- road company, and to the improved style of engineering and workroaaship here exhibited; it being a seriet of piers 100 feet high, of hewn stone, with a platform and bridge on the lattice plan one thousand three hundred and twenty feel long, including flats and abutments; advantage is here taken of the same obstructing ledge of rock as at Richmond and elsewhere, that furnishes a firm foundation, and facilitates the passage of this stream at such a giddy height. Garey's is the place of intersection of the two railroads from Petersburg and Richmond to the north, and Ports- mouth and Norfolk to the north-east, one mile and a half from Blakely and Weldon ; then the route is again resumed southerly through Halifax and the borders of Nash and Edgecomb Counties, crossing various streams subsidiary to the Tar River, and over that at the Bocky Falls, and in 30 miles over the Contentny, a branch of the AVuse River, near - Stantonsburg and bridge; taen across Wayne County 30 miles to Waynesboro, on the Neuse River, 51 miles south- east from Raleigh, the State Capital; and across Duplin County, following the valley of the north-east branch of Cape fr'ear River, in New Hanover County, 60 miles to Hit- mingtoUf on the low, sandy, eastern bank of Cape Fear Rivei\ 36 miles from the ocean. A portion of the above extensive line is nearly straight for 39 miles. f ^i fVilmington ban a, 000 inhabitants, two banks, an Episco- palian and Presbyt^ian Church, an academy and printing- office, court house and jail. The islands in the river opposite the town caut^e three channels ; the entrance is quite shoal, but admits vessels of 200 or 300 tons ; it is the principal place (eiccept Newbern, on the Neuse River) for the exports of this State, consisting of tar, turpentine, and cotton. From Charleston it is 150 miles to Wilmington, thence via Weldon and Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail-road to Norfolk, Virginia, is 300 miles, traversed in 36 hours over a swampy or sandy soil, productive of trees of the pitch pine, that look monotonous or gloomy, with cleared spots occurring rarely. Leaving Norfolk in the evening, the traveler gets to Baltimore at nine o'clock the next morning, at Philadelphia in the after- noon, at New- York in six hours following, Tlie expense for the whole distance is about $40. By the ship or coast line $20. i«P From IVilmington to Charleston by steamboat down Cape > -^ Chmrletton, "^^ ^'^'p' VA VW, 416 J^HtaiMMit^i^ \ ~**H»>. J ;■ \:-- / . -'' -.: -X ChmrUitom, 437 Fear River, past Brunswick and SmithviUe, an<1 along the coaat for 150 miles is the only sea exposare, and occupies 10 or 15 hours in fisvorable weather ; the time required from Boston to Charleston is four davs; the conputed distance being 1,100 miles. From Charleston via the rail road to Augusta, on the Savannah River, and across the States of Georgia and Alabama to Montgomery and Mobile, or Pen- aacola, and by steam-boat to New Orleans in five days. CharluUnt South Carolina, is in north latitude B2P 37' on a point of land between the Ashley River on the south- west, and Cooper River on the north-east, seven miles from the ocean ; its defences are Castle Pinckney on an island in the harbor south-cast and near the city ; Fort Moultrie on Sulli- vau*s Island, four miles on the east side; and Fort Johnson two and a half miles on the west side of the entrance to the harbor; but its shoals and changing channels, at all times difficult or dangerous, and only admitting a depth of 16 feet, are perhaps its best protection. A caiuU of 22 miles from the head of Cooper River connects the waters of the harbor with the Sante River, 50 miles to the north, opposite Black Oak Island in Sumter County. The great Florida or Chufttruvm runs past, and only 15 to 20 leagues distant from the bar, and has a powerful influ- ence in its constant action on the shores and harbors, in mltering the conformation of the coasts, or in modifying or influencing the climate. The population of this beautiful city of the south is com- puted to be 37,000 to 40,000 : about half being whites, the rest slaves or mulattos. There are 30 churches of various denominations; several large valuable libraries; the atreetc and squares are shaded by the Pride of India ; the gardens and embellishments have a tropical appearance in summer ; its winter climate is mild, but not as equable for invalids as St. Augustine or Key West, or the south side of the Island of Cuba for those desirous of a soft dry atmosphere. The great fire in 1838 devastated a large and valuable portion of the city, that is now re-built with renewed beauty and durability, and increased safety, in modern atvle. The impulse given to the growth and prosperity of the city is evident since the State and individuals have entered into the rail-road system. This, if cautiously extended as con- templated, will no doubt be beneficial. The Orphan Asylum and other institutions here are well supported. Forthtir 438 MoultrUville, intelligent, liigh chivalric feeling, politeness and hospitality, the citizenR of this capital are proverbial. MouUrieviUe, on Sullivan's Island, a flat sandy place covered with palmetto trees, is much resorted to. in summer as a healthy position by t^e inhabitants of this metropolis, for sea-bathnif, riding, &c. on t^e shore. The city of Savannah may be reached by steam-boat or coasting craft, that either take the outside passage or follow the intricate chain of passages in more safety, made during the war of the revolution by the enemy, crossing over 16 rivers and threading some very narrow cuts, and pausing over shoals and by 13 islands, with occasional open chaii- nels and glimpses ocean ward on the blue expanse. From Charleston the route through the State of South Carolioa is t>y the rail-road for Hamburgh, firat taking a north-west direction for 130 miles, then westerly six miles to the banks of the Savannah River, opposite Augusta in Georgia, fare thus far $7 ; thence by the rail-rosd made by the Georgia Rail-road and Banking Company through the Counties of Richmond, Columbia, Warren, Talliaferro, Greene, to Greensboro' or Madison, thence to be through Covington to Decatur, 123 miles from Augusta, nearly fin- ished ; here the State RaiUroad begins, arid has its route of 1 18 miles in a north-west line through the old Cherokee lands, via Cobb, Cass, Murray, and Walker Counties, there touch- ing the Tennessee line and the internal improvements of that State, by the Hiwasaee Railroad of 98ii miles, extending up valleys and through gorges of the lovely Alleghanies, to KnoxviUe. This is a new and beautiful route that may be easily traced north-east, through North Carolina and Vir- ginia to the various springs, caves, falls, mountains, &c. to Staunton, Winchester, Harper's Ferry, to Baltimore. Restimtng our south-western route from its present tempo- rary t^mination at Greensboro' or Decatur, the stages are taken towards the Chattahoochee River. The rail-road is to et^oss at West Point or by a branch at Columbus, and con- tinued through A\hbAmti to Mofltgomenj ; thence south-south- west to Pensacola, or a branch to Mobile Bay ; thence by steatn-boat to New Orleans, as may be traced in the reversed order, with full details in our route from New Orleans, by the ▼arit>u8 eastern river, land, stage, rail-road, or other ar- Ting^n^enti, {wt Index and table of cdnt^iitf ,) #.':*!,• . - ' -» " ' '"' 5 *i ;, Canal, Rail-road, and Vitmal Swamp, Virginia .^ 439 Canal, Baii-rond, and Dismal Swampy Tlrirlnltt and North Carolina* Th« great morass called the Dismnl Swamp, hai some peculiar and remarkable features not generally known or attended to until the great thoroughfares of late opened tip into it : the canal, the road on its hank, from Norfolk to North Carolina, and the raii-way that dips into the northern bor- der of the swamp, have elicited some novel characteristics in the geological and agricultural features with which it is connected. The swamp is 40 miles from north to south, and 25 from east to west, ( 1,000 square miles or 640,000 acres,) and all this, except some small spots, is a quagmire, a mass of shaking, irembling,vegetable matter, or labyrinth of roots, rotten logs, shrubs, and trees, matted and almost impenetrable, and in- stead of being lower.than the level of the surrounding coun- try, or a receptacle of the streams flowing therefrom, it in fact is higher than all or nearly all the firm and dry lands that encompass it, and the interior of the swamp is general- ly higher than its outer circumference. P The only exception to both of these facts is on the west side, where for 12 miles the streams flow from higher lands into the swamp, and supply all its abundant a^'^d overflow- ing water ; but to the north-east and south, the drain and descent is self-ev4dent to the observer, showing the outlet and current from the swamp to diflierent rivers, and of the superior level of the former. The levels and profiles of the rail-way from Portsmouth to Suffolk, and of the Dismal Swamp, and the Land Company's Canal, all evince the truth of this statement; Where the rail* way passes through about four miles, it is above the level of the firm land on either side by six or seven feet. The central part of the swamp is five or six feet above the middle section of the Dismal Swamp Canal, that itself is 13 feet above the rivers into which it empties, and these rivers are not more than five or six feet below much ef the dry but low lying land of this flat country. It is, in short, an immense aggregation of vegetable mat- ter allied to peat, and in a state of rapid growth, and hence its height above its margin ; below the living roots all is black ■oil mud ; and over it, under shelter of the large trees, shrubs, • If. "*■- ¥■', 440 Canalt Rail-road, and DUmal Sieamp, Virginia, or reeds, is h Chick carpet of tender, tnotty plants that rise four or five inches, and that can be taken up ko easily they appear to have slight hold of the soil, that is wet as water can make it, and la the least solid of the whole, and most favorable to the junipcr-tiees, that stand barely supported by their sap roots in these quaking bogs oCsurfot rponge, as it is called. 1 This wetness and extreme richness of the soil causes an immense growth of a(;^uatic plants ofall sizes and of various kinds, from the dimmutive moss and the water-loving hydran^GS, with its large and beautiful paeony-size ilowert; to the gigantic cypress. The botanist can here luxuriate, and nature will ever reign triumphant in this solitude and miasmatic domain. The ^vet soil causes more evaporation and cold, and the heat of the sun is excluded by the thick dense foliage of the trees; and coldness thus produced allied to a more north- ern climate, and the leaves and vegetable matter that fall are but partially decomposed, and thus add annually to the thickness of the soil. ""' Cape Hatteras is well known to mariners not only as a dangerous place, but remarkable for magnetic anomalies, that may perhaps have some affinity to the non-variation of the compass at this cape. The warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico here appreach within a few miles of the cold mass of water embraced in the Dismal, the great heat of one and the cold of the other neutralizing the effect of the magnetic and electric heat. ' No one can be awnre of the magnitude of the difficulty in traveling upon this swampy and semi-fluid surface until trial is made. The mat or web of living roots is the only protec- tion from total submersion, where roads and paths of logs, and fascines of twigs and brushwood are not laid out. It was not until 30 years before the revolution that Lake Drummond was discovered. This singular lake is nearly oval, seven miles long and five and a half wide. It has no beach, the thick and tall forest being at and in its margin, and the water even with and often gently overflowing its banks, that sink perpendicularly. This fairy and lovely sheet of water, and the more attrac- tive, perhaps, from the repuUi 'e, gloomy aspect of its bor- ders and the difliculty of approach, has had its tales of wonder and incredulity in its reported unfathomable depths. Diimal Swamp^ SfC. 441 &c. and of there being a lubterraneous communication with the ocean, or with Albemarle Sound ; but thliia ftet at rest by Riddick Senior, of Suffolk, and Commodore Barron having sounded acroia the lake, and the depth about the middle being only 15 feet, the bottom being otmud like the iwamp, but sometimes a pure white sand colors the mud a fool or more in depth. General Washington and a few other gentlemen, acting from his knowledge, acquired as a surveyor in early life, purchased a part of the Dismal Swamp wilderness a few years before the revolution, except the cream of the whole— che lake, then not estimated is worth even the lowest pit- tance of the State taxation, but now of inestimable value for canal purposes ; 40,000 acres were then taken by the Com- pany, but It is now known as much'largcr — size 65,000 acres ; they also bought a farm on the borders that had been drain- ed and rendered rich and productive, and the Company dug a canal of some miles in length from the high land, m to- wards the lake, that is yet large enough for boats to pass, and is called the " Washington Ditch,** and was nearly use- less for many years, until they began the getting of juniper shingles, and this is found so profitable that the shares, at first only of $3,000 each, are now worth $15,000 each, and the dividends even then are large. The curious traveler intending to explore the mysteries and penetralia of the dark, secret recesses of this semi-fluid re|^ion, must procure the services of the swamp bontmen, as bemg best acquainted with (not to say indispensible to) the voyage, and mode of getting on in the canal or ditch. Starting from the north end of the canal, one mile from SuiToIk, where all the shingles are brought from the interior of the swamp and put over to the tide creek, that is 20 feet lower level, and taken by sailing-craft to various markets, we find the boats ready in which we are to proceed. They are flat-bottomed, long and spacious, and well designed to receive passengers in the trips to the lake for pleasure or business. A pole is fixed across the boat at the bow and stern, and reaching over the tow-path on each side, by which the men push the boat along rapidly, with ease by four men, relieved at times. The canal is 12 feet wide, four deep, and is 10 miles long, nearly straight and level, there beinj[ but a slight impulse I y^ 449 tuterior of the Dumal Swamp. or current from the middle towards each end. In passing through the firm land, the banks are one to two, and for h dhort space three to four feet high, till at the swamp it is firm but more depressed for a few rods, and for seven or eight miles the path is almost even with the swamp ; but holes, brush, mud, and constant treading of the /)U«/i«r9, give more consolidation. Wooden roads for miles are made throughout the swamp to convey the shingles to the borders of the canal, and these nmle-road4 are five and six miles long. The water crosses in many places over the margin of the canal, and we soon reach the juniper or cedar trees, and the soO swamp soil in which only they will grow ; they are high, straight, and have naked trunks to a certain height, where a thick tuft comes out, that, when they are compact, forms a high roof of ever- greens beautiful to behold. Patches of burnt woods occur where the trees have been killed by fires in olden times. From the slight rooting or penetration of the trees in the semi-liquid mass they are easily upset or blown down, and then are soon covered with water, and so remain for ever without rotting, except the sap-wood, an inch thick ; and much of the timber now got is found by probing or sound- ing, ai which they are very dexterous, and thus fish up or saw oif from a foot or two deep. The trees each side of the canal, where they almost unite their branches across into an arch of verdure, form a vista and vanishing point or perspective of striking besuty — and at night, when the light of the pine torches flashes through and lights up the deep gloom of the midnight darkness, a scene is presented for the admiring artist. The original gigantic forest is yet preserved in part, and these, . ided by the thick growtli of reed, give a footing to rest upon occssionally ; and this, it is hoped, will for a long time be spared from the ruthless hand of man, where the king of the forest, the cypress, the gum, &.c. will be found, with a host of inferior vegetation. The camp or huts of the shingle-getters are mere shan- ties or covers for ave or six men to lie in, close-packed, like spoons, with heads to the back wall, and feet to the fire in front — their beds of shingle-shavings, and their yards filled with the same. There are 500 slaves employed in this work by task, and their week's work is said to be easy, and done in less than Upper RuU'toad in North Carolina. Aii the time allotted; they have plenty of leisure, are fond of the einploymeni, and are healthy. After making a slight deviation from the course pursued for several miles, the boat glides most unexpectedly out into the open lake, where the oars are taken up, and we advance for two miles towards the centre, and find that we are en- compassed round its margin by a thick growth of tall trees, the cypress being most conspicuous. Though not exactly land-locked^ yet the vegetable margin from the middle of this expanse of water of course appears low, and offers but slight protection from the violent winds that at times sweep over from Albemarle Sound and the near Atlantic, and the violence of storms is here as often seen as on the sea. The water, though it looks dark in the canal and lake, from its vegetable tinge, is clear in a glass, or of a wine co* lor, and is the same throughout ; it is palatable and whole- some, and is preferred by the men to any other, though to most strangers disagreeable; but invalids come and use the water for consumption, and remain at the tavern on the op- posite or south side of the lake, near the Dismal Swamp Canal. Oar fish ot great size, five feet, are caught, and others thai are esteemed, and the dining on them is a part of the grati- fication of the traveler. Bears abound in the thick recesses of the cane-break, and prey on the hogs of the farms ad- jacent. Wild and pole-cats also are known to be here. ITpiier Rail«road in North Carolina* Froid Weldon, on the Roanoke, a branch rai!-road diverge •8 south-west for 86 miles to RcUgigh, the capital of the State, in Wake County, between the Ifeuse and Cape Fear Rivers, latitude 35^48'. Its population is 1,800, concentra- ted near the public square of 10 acres, on a pleasant ele> vation, that is surmounted by the chaste and elegant State- house ; a former edifice, in]183l, was destroyed by fire, with Canovd's statue of Washington — an irreparable loss to the fine arts and the world. There are two churches, two aca- demies, four printing-offices, a theatre, bank, court house, jail, and market. It is 27 miles north of Sraithfield, the near- est head of sloop navigation ; 50 from Waynesboro*, or the \f ♦ f 444 Old Route from Norfolk to Charleston, intersecting point on the great rail-road from Wcldon to Wilmington ; 60 north oi'Fayetteville; 164 sout^-south-west of Richmond, Virginia; 119 northrwest of Newhern. The streets are 100 feet wide each side of the squaee, thus dividing the town into four equal parts. The viaduct, or structure supporting the rail-road above the Neuse River, is 1,000 feet long, on lofty granite piers ; thus far can boats reach usually. The extension of the rail-road hence to Fa- yetteville 60 miles ; thence to Chera w 60 miles } Camden and Columbia^ South Carolina, through dark forests, 86 miles; thence to Charleston, via Branchville, is 120 miles, is de- sirable for travelers, to give a safe upper route to attain Charleston, and avoid the 150 miles of sea risk. From Co- lumbia, by stage- road, to Augusta, Georgia, is 78 miles in a south-west course. Fayelteville has a population of 3,000. It is on the west side of Cape Fear Ri\er, here 1,000 feet wide, spanned by a bridge, and navigable thus far for vessels of 150 tons. A brisk trade is carried on in cotton, tobacco, flour, turpentine, iic. The town is principally one mile from the river, in 1831 it was nearly consumed ; it has been re-built in a more secure, efficient, and ornamental manner. There is a ca- pital hotel here. The roads traveled by stages pervade the region of pine woods in all directions for hundreds of miles. Old Stage Route from Norfolk to M^ . .^ - .V Charleston, From Norfolk to Murfreesborough, by the old stage-road, is 68 miles, crossing in the outset two small Inlets from the bay, on long bridges, passing near Portsmouth and the !Navy Yard, and soon entering a forest that skirts on the north the great Dismal Swamp, herein described. The old road is sandy ; the forests thick with oak, cypress, cedar, and pine ; magnolias, laurel, holly, and evergreen on the marshy spots, with a wilderness of vines and climbing plants of the vari-^ ous parasites. Suffolk is reached in 28 miles from Norfolk ; it is a small place, of a few wooden houses in the midst of the forest, a resort for travelers in the olden time as a half-way house. Cotton plantations in fields and corn bi^ad in taverns soon begin to appear when we cross the rivers Nottoway and Moherrin. x tiUeiior ilotlle in North Carolina. 44d At SuHolk, where the new and all-absorbing rail-way in« tersects the ancient route, that goes more south than the course of the Potomac and Roanoke Rail-road, that is hero left to the north, we continue on to Sommerton, and noon cross th0 line of Virjiinia and North Carolina, then the Not> towBy and Moherrin, and are at Murfreesborough on the banks of the latter river, that at the union of the Nottoway a few miles below, forms the Chowan River, that disgorges by a wide bay into the Albemarle Sound. The aspect of the flat forest and marshy country continues more dotted by plantations of corn or cotton ; the owner's house with a pia:>za in tho midst, the huts of the slaves and the barns on the right or left. This continues till we meet the Roan, oke River and arrive at Halifax. The banks of the river are picturesque, and exhibit, by tho variety of new plants or shrubs, our approach to more southern and genial climest Pursuing our course due south, in SOmiles we are at Tar- borough, (or Tar River,) with 800 inhabitants, streets broad, regular — houses of wood. To reach Fayettevillo we travel 86 miles in a thick forest. At Waynesborough we intersect the grand rail road line from the Roanoke to Wilmington* (see page 435 ;) no other village of note occurs. The Neuse and Cape Fear Rivers are the largest streami crossed. Over the latter is a long covered bridge on the lattice plan, when we are at Fayetleville. Hence are two routes to Charleston ; the upper is 60 miles to Cheraw, through forests and over roads of sand ; we begin to see near the houses the melia aeadarach, or Pride of India, and other trees, indicative of a softer climate ; crossing Lumber River^ reaching Laurel Hillf the Little Pedee, and after crossing the lines of North and South Carolina, the Great Pedee, at Cheraw, thence to Camden^ on the Catawba, is 68 miles, through a thick wood, over Black and Lynch's creeks— the road sandy, the trees or evergreens fine ; in 32 miles we are at Columbia, the capi- tal of the State. The last stagt of 32 miles more hilly ; sand more yellow, mixed with clay. Columbia, South Carolina, contains 500 inhabitants. It is situated on an eminence at the confluence of Broad and Saluda Rivers, that here merge into the Congaree. The streets are 100 feet wide, shaded by the Pride of India trees ; the houses, of a superior grade, have elegant gardens; the spciety is refined, and the college, endowed by the State, is here located. The State-house is a large plain wooden cdi* 38 . 9m mssamoBBBm 446 Columbus to Charieiton^ fice. A canal 3 miles long, with four locks of nine feet ench, here avoids the falls in tbeCongaree, over a chain of rocks. The locks are two of granite, two of brick ; the bridge over the Congaree is on eight stone piers, and cost ^70,000. A raiUroad of 60 miles leads hence to Branchville, and in SO more to Chariest n by the rail-road from Augusta or Hamburgh to Charleston. The road is sandy, swampy, and at times hilly, through a forest of oaks and the long-leafed pine, with the Spanish moss adhering to the branches and waving in the wind. Live oaks* magnolias, kalmeas, and garden ia8"^the palmetto, the macaw, the yucca gloriosa, in* crease in size and beauty as we approach the coast. Dor- chester is passed, then the venerable church and burying- ground of St. Andrews; the plantations are more frequent and of superior embellishment, evincing the near approach to a large or populous city, that at length is disclosed as the forest is left behind. The houses of the suburbs, with their gardens, orange*trees, roses, and the glorious novel combi- nations of scenery peculiar to a city of the south, become more completely unfolded ; the piazzas or balconies, with ))illars festooned by flowers and creeping vines, the passion* flower Ok' convolvulus of the rose, and others, regale the senses and contribute to enhance and gratify, in the highest degree, the wondrous effects to a stranger from the frigid north on his first entrance into the capital of South Carolina. The long market, on the Philadelphia plan, that reaches from the harbor up the city in five compartments, is well supplied from home and abroad. The police of the city is strict and efficient ; philanthropic institutions abound. 'U. fk :.'3;V.": Rail«road from Charleston to Cincinnati^ South and North Carolina and Tennessee have granted acts of incorporation to aid in the formation of this road through their respective States; with banking privileges of a liberal description. This Company purchased of the Charleston and Hamburg Rail-road Company their road to the Savannah River at Augusta, at 25 per cent, advance on the first cost of the shares, payable one third in cash, the rest in one and two years ; thus securing a road of 136 mileBfJUled in solid, and for 66 miles on to BranchvUles this now forms a part of the "^''■ Rail-road from CharUiion to Cinciunali, m great road, and the privilege of extending it to Columbia, the capital of the State, is exclusively in this Company. From Columbia it is to extend, by the east or the left bank, up the Broad River to its extreme head waters in North Caro- lina, in Rutherford County, and through the Butt Mountain^ or Hickory Mountain Gap, to AahevUle, and along the valley of the French Broad to Knoxville, Tennessee, Lexington, Kentucky, (Charleston to Columbia, 128 mile";) at Deep or Big Creek Gap, a grade of 50 or 60 feet per mile, is over the Cumberland Mountains. The great bank of $12,000,000 capital, chartered by North and South Carolina and Tennessee, called the " South- West' em Rail-road Bank** for 31 years, will give the funds re- quired to equalise the currency and the exchange between the States of Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee at the west, and the States of South and North Carolina and Georgia on the east of the mountains, and will facilitate by its banking operations the formation and progress of this mammoth operation. The Bank Charter is of the most liberal tenure, and with- out any bonus. The stock is exempted from taxation, also the dividends ; the bills are receivable at the State treasu- ries. From BranchviUe to Columbia the lines are straight in general, and vary from a level to 25 feet grade to the mile, and the curves are a radius of 2,800 to 5,700 feet. The Charleston and Hamburg Rail-road was originally constructed on sl frame work of wood or trusses, (without any embankment,) and bars or rails of iron, fiat, and only weigh- ing 15 pounds to the yard, fastened on string-pieces of wood by iron spikes. This cheap method was the only one that was ad- visable at the time, from the limited resources at command, but has been since remedied throughout the entire line. It was, when^r5( undertaken, longer than any other rail-road in Europe or America, and is still destined to carry the palm in this respect; and the entire reconstruction of these 136 miles of embankment has put the whole on a solid and secure basis. The income is steadily advancing, the receipts being, in 1838, about $300,000,. The substitution of slave labor in the grading and working up the road from BranchviUe to Columbia is a new feature and of great importance to the southern States, and quite as 44t ^4- Ma4i»on Springi, ^v. nv • ?. eflTective and more to than white labor, at less cost and be- low the estimates of engineers, even competed for by the planters to get contracts ; thus avoiding bringing free white labor to mingle with their slaves; 15 cubic yards of exca- vation in a day per slave is by them an easy task, and is a day's vroxk among the Irish at the north ; but 18 cubic yar^s each, and even 33 in a day, has been done by the blacks in gangs. In XhBsovih they have in abundance the best of pine tim- ber on the very track of the rail-roads, the surface is level with a sandy soil, not requiring to guard against frost in winter, that at the north adds $5,000 a mile to the cost. The labor of slaves can be had to any extent, and no more expense for the increased demand, no rioting. Fuel only costs one fourth as much as at the north, and is inexhausti- ble. 37 feet per mile is the utmost grade ; cars run in 8 to 10 hours ; engines drag trains of 100 tons 136 miles both ways in three days. Madison Springs in Madison County, 23 miles north-east of Athens and seven of Danielsville, are tinged with iron, and used for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases, are a fashionable resort ; here is a hotel to accommodate 20O per- sons, and other houses for summer residences ; and none can be healthier than this, or have purer water or a poorer soil around. SpHngs similar to the above are in Franklin County, eight miles further north, that are also resorted to by inva- lids to spend the sultry summer months; others also exist near Athens, and in Wilkes, Jefferson, (Cobbs,) Greene, Wayne, Talliaffero and Pike Counties : near the Flint River is one called the Thundering Spring ; Greensboro has also in one of its public wells d\ grains of iron to the pint, and carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen. Fare in stage to Augusta $10 00 for 90 miles. From MUiedgeville to Sparta is 23 miles over a hilly coun- try mixed with clay and rock, the vales sandy and heavy ; the long-leaved pine prevails, and underneath may frequently be seen the bivouacs of travelers in wagons, on their way to Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, or Texas, with a large slave force, this road being the great thoroughfare. V ^fmrittf in Hancock County, has 750 inhabitants, a female academy, (on the Renssellaer or self-teaching and lecturing plan,) and 70 houses and stores, and a Methodist church ; it is i^- Warr$aton'-'AugU9U», 14 miles to Powellton and 22 to Warrenton, and 28 west to £atonton, and 64 from Augusta. PowelUon is one and a half inilei virest of the Ogeechee River, over which ii a bridge ; here are two academies, a small cluster of dwellings, and places of worship for Baptists and Methodists, a few stores, doctors, and mechanics. Warrenlon is the county town of Warren, and has 30 to 40 dwellings, stores, and offices, an acadeniy and Methodist place of worship, and is on a branch of Savannah River, called Briar Creek. Here lived for many of his latter years, Buahnellf the inventor of a machine for blowing up ships with gunpowder, used in a torpedo under water ; he was eccentric, reserved, slow, cautious, distant, and forbidding, and a native of Saybrook, Connecticnt ; he acquired consi- derable money by his economy, and died in 1826, in Haber- sham County, worth $9,000. There is a brick court-house, and a jail made of beams and planks strongly nailed together. To Lombardy 13 miles, and Augusta 25 miles; this is a hilly and tedious road, sandy In the extreme, with a few stray rocks and abundance of pine trees, but few or none of the evergreens and beautiful southern plants seen elsewhere. Augusta is in latitude 33° 33' on the south-west side of the Savannah River, that is here 1,100 feet broad, and has a bridge leading to Hamburgh on the east shore. This is a great cotton mart, receiving and shipping 150,000 bales or more a year, having 16 warehouses, 300 to 500 feet long and 4*0 broad. Broad-street is 180 feet wide, two miles long; it pervades the centre of the town, and is full of the cotton brought to the city in wagons or by the rail- road. There are 15 to 20 steam-boats that ply to Savannah in five days, with 800 to 900 bales and passengers, besides many pole-boats with 500 to 800 bales. • - - There are daily stages or rail-road routes to Charleston, 140 miles ; Savannah, 127 miles ; Columbia, 83; Athens, 93 ; Greensboro', 74 ; Madison, 94; Carnsville. There are places of worship for Presbyterians, Methodists, Episcopalians, Baptists, Catholics, Unitarians, Africans, two banks, two markets, five hotels, a theatre, court-house, jail, hospital, asylum, arsenal, free-school, masonic hall, academy, 45 by 40, and two wings 93 by 32 feet ; a city hall, 120 by 60, three stories high, and cost $100,G0O. Population 8,500. The streets are wide, well laid out, planted with trees, and cross at right angles, from a large bend in the river. i I 450 Hamhurgh^Hiwaasee Rail-road. The town faces to the north-east, and the houses and stores are large and elegant; the streets are not paved, but there art brick foot-paths. The banks of the river are 20 feet high, and the place of landing has three terraces, the first faced ivith cypress, the second and third with brick, with wooden landings; the lops of the terraces are paved, belonging to the State Bank of Georgia, and pays good interest. All the upper country east of Ocomee trades here. First house erected in 1755 by Gen. Ogelthorpe. The Globe Hotel is good. Hamburgh, opposite Augusta, has 600 inhabitants, and one row of houses parallel with the river, and 150 paces back. The Hiwassee Rnil-road,of ninety^cight and a half miles in length, pervading East Tennessee, begins at KnoxviUe on the Holston, a branch of the Tennessee, and continues along its vale, crossing the Hiwassee River at Cdhoun, passing near Athens, in Monroe County, Ten lessee, and crossine the Slate line a few miles from Rossville, and near Brainerd, a former missionary station for the Cherokees, and touching the rail- road entering the State of Georgia. The Grand Mountain thoroughfare and line of travel, con* necting the north-eastern and south-western States, already one of the stage mail routes to Alabama, Mississippi, Ar- kansas, and Louisiana, must eventually be matured by ex- tending the Hiwassee Rail-road up the charming valley to the head waters of the Holston, touching Blountsville, Ten-' nessee, and Abingdon, Virginia, and on to Richmond. From the Hiwassee termination, as above, comiDences the Western and Atlantic or Georgia State Rail-road; continuing it in a south and south-east direction for 118 miles, to near Decatur in De Kalb County, crossing the head branch of the Coose River near New Echota, and through Cass and Cobb Counties. From Decatur to Augusta 123 miles, in a direction nearly west to east, a private incorporation, the *^ Georgia Rail-road and Banking Company" capital^two millions of dollars, one half in bank, one half invested in rail-road, have completed the route through or near Covington, Madison, Greensboro, Crawfordville, Warrenlon to Augusta, on the Savannah Biver. Bv the South Carolina Rail-road of 136 miles from Hamburgh, on the opposite side of the river, we reach the At- lantic sea-board at Charleston. Thus from KnoxviUe to Charleston, as above, is a conti- nuoui line of rail-road of 476} miles, extending for over half Rail-road from Savannah to Macon* 451 the (liAtanco through a romantic, healthy, pure mountain re- gion ; the road has no tunnels or inclined planes, and none of its grades exceed 36 feet to the mile, or its curvatures in radius 1,000 <)r 1,400 feet; thus admitting a regular and Mafe speed of 20 to 30 miles an hour with locomotives; this is remarkable for such an extent of road, and is caused by its occupying a series of valleys at the base of the chain of moun- tains in Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, and that here subside and admit of easy curves around their west and south*west bases, thus entering upon the south-cast slope to reach the Atlantic. By the above rail-road goods may be sent from New- York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore, via Charleston, in a week or ten days to the remote inland counties of East Tennessee, at $1 or $1 50 per hundred pounds. Hitherto this has been a se- eluded out'-of-the-way region, depending upon wagons or 'stages to communicate with Rlulimond, Baltimore, or the nearest market town. Following the present mail and rail>road line, that we have traced from Charleston to Hamburg, and Augusta in Georcia, thence it is continued westerly to CrawfordvilUf 53 miles, Greensboro 18, Madison 20, Covington 26 ; hence it is to di- verge in a south-west direction for lOO miles, the line to reach the frontier of Georgia and Alabama, on the Chatta- hoochee at West Point. The continuation in Alabama, in the same direction for 70 miles nearly completed, will reach Montgomery on the Alabama River, (thence it is forming to Pensacola and Mobile.) Rail-Uoad from Savannah to lHacon. This long line of 196 miles, made by the *^ Central Rail- rond and Banking Company,^'' chartered by the state of Georgia, with a capital of $3,000,000; of this amount $1,500,000 to be employed in banking. The road begins at the dep6t and company's ground of five acres, granted by the city authorities of Savannah, on the Bouth-west suburbs ; thence the track takes a westerly direc- tion 13 miles, and soon crosses in one mile a heavy embank- ment, approaching to within a mile and a half of the Great Ogeechee River ; then, bending to the right, follows the ge- neral direction of that river, at a mean distance of three miles 45S Saponnak, from it, through the fint lands of Kffingham County, to the hammocki in Scriven County, bordering the river Swamp, aroiding the undulating lurface of the pine lands to Brun- ■on't Nlill Creek, and up its valley and around the east base of Paramour Hill, and across Buck Head Creek, into Burke County, and by the river flats crossing the Ogeechee 12 miles aouth of Louisville, and up Williamson's Swamp, crossing the stream near the double bridge, and taking a west course two and a half miles south of Sandersvllie, to the Oconee River and swamp, and across the same, and up along the Commis- sioner Creek towards Clinton, and south-west to Macon. Sixty-five miles are straight — 16 are curved — least radius 2,000 feet— 13 miles are level-^SS have a slope of five feet in a mile — 11 have a slope of five to 10 feet— 19 have over 10 and under 25 feet — 11 have under 30 feet— this covers more than half the diltance from savannah to Macon. Savannah, by means of the existing rail-road facilities in Georgia, and others constructing and nearly completed, has only one more link of the chain to finish to connect it with Augusta ; this link is from a point 79 miles north-west of Savannah, at the confluence of Buck Head Creek in Burke County, with the Great Ogeechee River, 224^ north to Waynesboro, on Briar Creek, thence 32^ miles north to Augusta. Thua 55 miles would accomplish this desirable connection, and enable Sa- vannah to compete with Charleston for the trade of the in- terior and upper portions of Georgia and Tennessee. The distance being tne same, 475 miles to both cities by the Hiwassee road, and through Georgia to Augusta, snd thence branching off' to Charleston and to Savannah as proposed. As respects Savannah, it wilt be ahortened 19 miles by ex- tending the rail-road of 25 mt/e«, that cost $300,000, now in use from Macon to Forsyth ; to connect in 69 miles with the other rail-roads touching Decatur. In this generous rivalry between Charleston anr' Savannah, for the trade of the up country in Tenneisste,, Kentucky, and the Ohio River Valley, Savannah cannot but reap certain benefits, that a short time and the lapse of events must disclose. ' Savannah has a population of about eight thousand ; is in north latitude 32<^ 6', was laid out in 1733, by Gen. Ogle- thorpe, on the south-west bank of the Savannah River, 18 miles from its mouth, on a sandy plain 18 feet above the water. Its streets are airy, wide, rectangular, beautifully or- namented and shaded by the Pride of India or China Tree; Rail-roadi in Alabama. 453 its numerous picturf .. BTcw Orleans* The city of New Orleans is situated fn 29° 57' Ab" north latitude, and 13° 5' Abf' longitude west from Washington. The difference between New Orleans and Paris in time is six hours, nine minutes, 15 seconds. A few workmen left b^ Governor Bienville in 1718, laid the foundation of the ctpi« tal of Louisiana and emporium of the west. The uneiam-* pled increase of New Orleans since the cession to the United States in 1803, attests the sagacity of its founder. It was in- corporated February 1 7th, 1805. On the 26lh of Dec««»'' ', 1814, IfOuisiana was invaded by a British army ezceediiig 112,000 in number, having for its object the capture of the city. Xhe American army, consisting of 3,500 effective men, under the command of Major General Andrew .1 ackson, ar- rested the progress of the invaders, and finally defeated and repulsed the enemy in a single battle on the 8th of Januaryi 1815, about five miles below the city. On the Ist of April. 1833, the suburbs Nuns, Lafayette, and Livanston in the parish of Jefferson, were incorporated under the name, City of Lafayette. The population in 1820 was 27,166, at present it has during the winter and spring months a population, in- cluding strangers rnd visiters, of upwards of 100,000, but during the summer about 60,000, including the city of La- fayette. The Orleans Navigation Company, incorporated the 3d of July, 1805, is in full operation. The Barataria and Lafouche Canal Company, incorporated Februaiy 6th, 1829, has for its object the communication of the Bay of Barataria with the Mississippi, and Attacapas with New Orleans. The work is in full progress. The Pontchartrain Rail-road Com- pany, incorporated January 20th, 1831, is finished and in full operation The New Orleans Canal and Banking' Company, incorporated March 5th,1831,ha8 completed the New Orleans Canal. An unsuccessful attempt was made to plant the sugar cane in 1766, the cultivation of the cane was however continu- ed on a small scale by Messrs Mendez and SoUs. In 1796 Mr. Etienne Bore renewed the attempt, and his enterprise was re- watded by a crop which produced 12,000 pounds. The ex- ports of cotton, sugar, tobacco, and molasses in 1839, were as follows : 967,949 balet of cotton ( 35,491 hogsheads of tobacco i\ V. 466 New Orledns, 3'2,95i hogsheads and 773 barrels o( sugar) and l'2,(i4d hogsheads and 6,544 barrels of molasses. In 1832, the amount of articles exported was as follows: cotton 407,220 bags, 23,701 hogsheads of tobacco, 29,333 hogsheads and 3,287 barrels of sugar, and 18,443 hogsheads and 11,576 barrels of molasses. In 1839 the exports were much greater. The value of all the exports in 1839 was upwards of ^50,000,000. The number of ships, brigs, schooners, and sloops, arrived at New Orleans in 1830, wss altogether 1,120, besides 778 steam-boats navigating tho Mississippi,— 1833, 1,304 and 1,081 steamboats. The annual rise and fall of the Mississippi at New Orleans is about 14 feet six inches. The rise usually commences in November, tho latter part, but it is mostly checked by the frost in December and Jan* uary; the general rise commences with the breakt ? up of the ice about the Kt of February, and the river : "^ a its greatest height from March until June. The ^juiifiiissippi has in the vicinity of New Orleans a fall of one inch per mile, whilst towards the Balise it has a fall of about eight feet in 100 miles, and towards Natchez five and one-twelfth inches every three miles. Public Edifices. The cathedral, city hall, court house, seve* ral markets, Orleans Cotton Press Company, custom house, hospUals, churches, Louisiana Sugar Refinery^ State House, American Theatre, French Theatre, two Consents, Colleges, several banks, three Catholic, Presbyterian, Epiacopal, Baptist, and Methodist Churches. Along the levee in the busy season is 2,000 flat boats and all kind~ of river craft, and several thousand boatmen ; a host of steam-boats also are here displayed; others also oi. Lake Pontchartrain at the rail- road landing. The width of the River Mississippi is here over half a mile* its depth about 50 fathoms. The French, English, Spanish, German, and other languages are here commonly used. The banks of the Mississippi, for many miles above and below the nucleus of city population^ have been laid out in streets and squares by speculators, in anticipation of future times. The sudden revulsion of 1836 to 1840 has caused a pause in these wild schemes ; but the irresistible whirl {4' commerce and prosperity will gradually bo restored, a^d continue like the mighty current, to tho end of time. ; '^ I ' RouUb from Neio Orleam, iby Routes from JVew Orleans* »g* New Orleans to Nashville, via Pass MaiiebaC) Tangi* pan, Madison, Covington, Franklinton, Jacksonville, Mi- neral Spring, Holmesville, Monticello, on Pearl River, Brook- haven, Qallatin, Jackson, on Pearl River, Brandon, Carthage, Canton, Kosciusko, Lexington, Carrolton, Cofieeville, Ox- ford, Jefierson, Clarendon, Greensboro', Houston, Pon- totol, Tishornings, Jacinto, Tennessee River, Muscle Shoals. The rail-road that is to extend to Nashville, begins on the west side of New Orleans, and pursues a north-west direction, and in 13 miles is on the border o^ Lake Pont" chartrain, where there is a hotel and a watering-place, and a wide and noble prospect of the blue expanse of the lake, and of the boundless prairie, with its tall grass and ocean of ver- dure, in contrast to the liquid expanse on the east. Winding around to the north, between Lakes Maurepas and Pontchar* train, the scenery is interesting, as on the whole route from New Orleans, and also picturesque, pleasing, and imposing. The prairie alone is aui eye- feast, and the vicinity of the me- tropolis of the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico here unfolds a flreat variety of new objects of contemplation to the gra- tified traveler. The mechanism of the drawbridge over which the steam^ cars cross the canal is to be obsenred ; a fixed steam engine moves the bridge entire, for passing, in half a minute, and re^ places it in a few seconds ; this operation by hand would re- quire an hour. The rail track is laid at the rate of two miles each month, and is finished to Sal ranches plantation 30 miles, and on to Pass Manchac ; here the produce and commerce of the lake shore and vicinity comes into this new re vfe to New Orleans. Marketing, firewood, lumber^ vegetables, fruit, heahhy milk, grain, d^c. all pour In, cuttmg up the monopo* lixer84 New Orleans to Mobile, Fcnsaeola, Mont« gomery, West Point, Madison, Gains- boro% Angnsta» Charleston. , New Orleans to Mobile is near 190 miles by lake, canal, tnd land; fare $13 00. The bayou St. John csnal, or rail- 39 \v \» 458 Atobite. ff road, all conduct the traveler speedily to the snores of the lake. The bayou is rather sluggish, but, like all others, is a vent to the great river and lake, and used as a canal through cedar swamps. Lake Pontchartrain trends west to east, and is 35 miles long and 26 miles wide, and 12 to 20 feet derp; its outlet to the ocean on the east is through Lake Borgi^e, by the Pats Chef Menteufand the Rigolets, that are guarded and forti'^ fied, and the exterior Pass Marian, near east and south Pass Islands ; on the north-west it touches Lake Maurepas, and by the Amitie and Iberville bayous the Mississippi above Pla- guimiii£, and below Baton Rouge. Its shores are very low, ind on the north border is Madisonville, a place of resort for 'tens of New Orleans. > ,,« ; Borgne il a similar expanse that extends from the south ivest branch near the English 7>trn, 40 miles north-> east, to the bayou of St. Louis find BUaxi, the old French Set- llement west of the mouth of the Paseagoula River and its delta of low islands. Portersville is 32 miles from Mobile. Thus far the steam-boat comes, and hence to Mobile re* sort is had to stages, that conduct over level poor pine land, with swamps and ponds, for 20 miles to Sjning Hill, from whence to J^obUe is a pleasant gay drive of twelve miles* "« jH;,;^ mobile* The public buildings in Mobile, are the City Hotel, Alaba- ma Hotel, Dauphin-street Hotel, Government-street Hotel, Michael- street Hotel, Theatre, Catholic Church, Episcopal Church, Presbyterian Church, Baptist Church, Methodist Church, African Church, Mansion House, Court House, Mar* ket, Seminary, Custom House, and United States Court Room, City Hospital, Mobile Bank, Planters* and Merchants' Bank, Branch of State Bank, Barton Academy, Unitarian Church ; there are 46 wharves. In 1827, 170 buildings were burned ; in 1839, 600 more destroyed^ There are 300 blocks or squares, laid out south of Canal - street, 350 north of Canal, and west of river, Commerce* street next to the river, then Water, Magnolia, Royal, Ema- nuel, Joseph, Conception, Jackson, Joachim, Claiborne, Franklin, Hamilton, Lawrence, Cedar, Rowen, Dearborn, Wilkinson, Scott, Bayou, Jefferson, Broad, Spring Hilk Mobile. Crom-streett, Madison, East* street, Monroe, Church, and Theatre, GovernmeDt, Conti, Dauphin, Francis, Michael, Louis, Anthony, Bloodgood, State, Congresa, Adama, Lips- comb, Hunt. As a cotton mart and place of export, Mobile is next in import! ce to New Orleans and Charleston, having exported 250,000 bales a year. Its site is dry and pleasant ; its har- bor ehoal; the channel circuitous. Back of the town aro swamps and ponds; in front is a low marshy island. Whilo under the Spanish and French domination, this place languished; it has of late risen rapidly, though often checked by heavy conflagrations ; rebuilt soon, usually in an improved st^le. This place is frequented and enlivened by many steam- boats, that in a short run down the bay, and along the Lakes Borgne and Ponchartrain, to the rail-road connect it with New Orleans ; also when the rivers are high, the interior trade to Montgomery and other places is brisk. Fort Bowyer, or Morgan, is its protection at the entrance of the bay, 30 miles below the citv, on a long, low, sahdy point, opposite Dauphin Island. This fort was attacked 15th September, 1814, by he British, when they were defeated and lost a ship ; on the 15th February, 1815, after the battle of New Orleans, but before the news of peace had reached that quarter of the country, they again attacked and carried this weak military position by an overwhelming force. The population is estimated at 10,000 during the busy season. Mobile was established by the French about the year . ... . . . 1700 , France ceded it to England by treaty, in . . 1763 . England surrendered it to Spain in . . 1780 . Spain do. to the Americans. April 5th, 1813 : Was incorporated as a town, April 20th, . 1814 Do. do. do. city, December 17th, . 1819 Latitude 30° 40'. Longitude west from Washington City, 11° 15' 30". Longitude west from Greenwich, 88° IT. Mobile by water to Montgomery, 406 miles. ^ Do. by land to do. only 180 do. The Tmsaw and Mobile Rivers, the outlet of the Ala- bama and Toinbigbee, emp^ into the estuary of the bay of Mobile, through a labyrinth of islands and .channels, form- ing an intricate delta. The Alabama is a river to be com- I \ % » 460 Mobile to Blakely. pared in size with the Delaware or Hudion in average width ; Its banks, at times lofty or low, subject to floods of 50 or 60 feet, are richly wooded with a mass of luxuriant foliage, and among its forest trees we see the magnolia, grandiflora, gum tree, hackberry, plane, maple, many varieties of oak and dogwood. Route by land to Augusta, (Georgia,) Blakely to Colum- bus on the Chattahoochee River, Georgia, Rocky Hill 9, Taitsviile 38, Burnt Corn 46, Greenville 46, Hickory Grove 31, Pintetata 10, Montgomery 13, Fort Meigs 13, Tuskegce 37, Foft Mitchell 40, Columbus 10. Mobile to Huntsville is 373 miles, via Blakely 11, Clai- borne 71, Dale Town 51, Cahawba 31, Selma ll,Monte- vallo 59, £lyton 40,* Blount's Springs 31, Somerville 42, Triana 10, Huntsville 16. Mobile to Blakely, 13 miles by water around Marshy Isl- ands, covered with cane and shallows. The town has a good appearance, and is well situated on an elevated position. Blakely to Pensacola is 65 miles ; at the ArH is a grove of live oaks and bush palms ; the Spanish bayonet, a kind of macaw tree, is here seen as the hill is ascended, that gives a good retrospective view of the bay and the deserted town with a few houses, the valley with its meandering streams and rich vegetation, magnolias, laurels, and the water-oak , a bushy evergreen. In one mile these give place to sand and the long-leaved pine, and here and there plantations that cultivate the dry rice^ that yields 50 bushels an acre, but little inferior to the swamp rice of Carolina. The 33d mile is at Belle Fontaine ; here is a log-house and a clearing, and in 13 miles the west bank of the Ferdido River and bay, the boundary line that divides Alabama from West Florida, and formerly the east boundary . <" Louisiana, as purchased by the United States from France. Ferdido River is small ; the bay is a considerable expanse of water, shallow and unimportant ; the shores sandy, with the bushy palmettos and pines, that as we advance give place to dwarf oaks or water oaks in marshes. -•i»i^v:f^- Pensacola* Pensacola has about two thousand inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated on a dry sandy plain, 20 feet above the Feruacola, 461 sea and 10 miles from the entrance into the bay, that it 18 miles long and three to seven wide, trending north and south, and is the best harbor on the Gulf; having twenty>one feet OD the bar, and deepening to seven or eight fathoms ; is land- locked and safe from all winds, and is now the naval depdt of the United States, for the ships that cruise on the Mexican and West Indian statious. It is noted for its salubrity and exemption from yellow fever, owing to the dryness of the air and there not being any swamps near. The pure breezes from the ba^ and the pine-clothed ridges inland are the guarantees oi its safety from disease. • ^ ,^;t '^ys's'.; ?■ The town is in north latitude 30° 23' 43^' and in longitude 10*^ from Washington, and is on the west side of the bay, and has a neat market-house on the margin of the beach on Ferdinand Square, and near by is the Custom House, Ca- tholic Church, Court House, and Jail, old Calaboose, and the United States Public Store. The streets are at right an- gles, and those parallel with the bay are Government, Hos- pital, Intendentia, Romana, Garden ; and those at right an- {;les are Balen, Pallafax, and Alcarex- streets. The two alter front the public square, and Hospital street and the bay are its other sides. Forts St. Michael and St. Bernard. The I*favy Yard includes 80 acres of land within high brick walls ; it appears well in coming in from sea. The officers* re- sidences are neat two story buildings, with balconies ; there is a large naval store of brick, a shed for timber, a sail loflr, and shop for blacksmiths ; the grounds are well and taste- fully laid out ; neat gardens are attached to the quarters of the officers stationed here. Fort Pickens on the San Rosa, or south-east side of the bay, has 280 gufis of the largest calibre ; the channel for ves- . sels over 300 tons leads close to this formidable battery, thence to the large Fort on Foster's Bank, nearly opposite : :- vessels venturing to pass are thus exposed to a most destruc- i tivti cross fire, also to the point blank shot of the San Carlos Fortf At the Barrancas, ArBt built by the Spaniards ; repaired and rebuilt by the United States recently, after having lain in ruins several years since its capture by General Jackson in 1814. A wharf extends out 600 feet to the edge of the . shoal; the houses are low one story buildings, and are color- .' less and far from attractive, except some ofrecent erection ; here is a bank, three churches, four hotels, City Hall. 39* I I N't 462 Vicinity of Pentacola, The white sand, daEsling the eyes almoit to blindnetf in the hot season, is annoying, but the regular land and sea breeEes are pleasant to mitigate the suhnness. A new quarter or suburb is about arising at the old Baran- cas or broken high ground, half mile from the shore, or San Carlos Fort block-house, that overlooks the whole bay in the most enticing manner; this village is halfway from the harbor's mouth to the Navy Yard; the city is eight miles above. From the elevated site of the village of the Barancas, the eye ranges over the distant gulf and low long islands of St. Rosas to the east, covered with small trees or shrubs, while the spectator is situated under a grove of large umbrageous live oak trees of great age, that have been preserved fortu- nately from destruction. The old half-moon fort in its days of streugtth was at the foot of a hill, that had on its summit a block-house, now in ruins; the fort was capable of strong resistance; it had a covered way that led to the block-house. In the rear is the old burial-ground of the Spaniards, now used by the Ame- ricans. Ariola in 1689 was sent by Spain to erect a fort at Ar- chasa^ the Indian name of the bay ; this he did at the site of the Barancas, and also added a church and a few dwelling- houses. In 1719 Bienville, the French commander, broke up this post. In 1763 the English look Florida, and held it for twenty years. During this period Florida was in its glory; settlements were formed, Pensacola was laid out with regu- larity and beauty; but at the return of the Spaniards, anarchy and ruin again overspread the country for many years, and it has not yet had a respite from a constant succession of war, carnage, iniquity, and misgovcrnment. Climate, the first and last consideration, and of vital impor- tance to all visiters here, that may be attracted from northern regions in search of a more genial and mild atmosphere, is here put on a footing that yields to no other part of the United States as a safe residence for those desirous to escape from the rigors of a northern winter. The completion of the rail-road hence to Montgomery, and through the State of Georgia to Augusta and Charleston, will open a new, safe, and rapid conveyance in six days from New- York to Pensacola, and vice vefsa, ih«it cannot but greatly increase the general travel in both directions. Ceota Valley— Pleatant Valley, 46S The distance to Montgomery it about 190 miles north* north>eait from Pensacola, and from thence to Columbus on the Chattahooche due east about 70 miles, or to West Point, a little further north on the same stream, about 80 miles. Alabama River is navigable for itcam-boats to .the union of the Cooca and Tallapooga; a few miles from this the rapids commence on the Coosa, and are seen for sixty miles, but are covered at high water; then steamboats can ascend in deep smooth water 200 miles to near its source, almost touching a branch of the Tennessee. Coosa Valley is extensive and well known, and contains the river of that name. Pleasant Valley extending north from Selma in range 17 above Cahawba for 70 miles, there unites with Cahawba Valley, that trends to the north-east 60 miles, and reaches to the hilly region near Ashimbo in St. Clair County. In this prolonged valley is the main road through the centre of the State, and is to be the rail-road from the south to the north. From the union of Coosa and Tallapoosa the Alabama runs, westerly 100 miles, but only 50 in a direct line to CahnO' da, coming in from north, the banks 50 feet above low water, (the river in winter rising that much,) striped with layers of clay of variegated colors, so pure that thev are used for paint, and are of red and deep blue, to a fine white, soft and unctu- ous, ofone inch to several feet in thickness; 20 feet is their line above low water. a .m* ra«?#M- Shells displaying a fine display of colors are found in the islands, also small gravel; on the prairies west of Cahawba is lime-stone and shell lime-stone ; in the regionto the south, towards the gulf, also salt springs. From Selma north for 45 miles it is hilly, with few rocks ; there is seen large boulders of granite, but none in place un- til 15 miles further north is the gray secondary lime-stopf . For 70 miles it is then hilly to mountainous, rising to 300 or 400 feet above the valley, with red and gray sand and lime- stone, level for 60 miles, but elevated at Tf^pnessee River, the descent to it for a mile being very steep, jkirted by lime- stone. In the midst of this extensive, fertile, and rich vale is the charming town of Huntsviile. Claiborne, 80 miles above MobUe, is a ftmall settlement on a bluff 300 feet high, a little way from ti\ie river, and is a landing-place of flight import, as is Pertlsftd a little farther Up the river; also BlackfviilU, Canton, Fprtland, M%t in I f Route bff iteatn-boat down the Alabama River. tuecession, and then Cahawba, the old leat of goTernmonl, at the junction of the Alabama and Cahawba Rivera; here are but few houses of inferior description. It is 11 miles from Selma. Montgomery, on the Alabama River, in the next range be- low the Coosa and Tallapoosa Rivers, has 2,000 inhabitants ; the streets are broad and the houses decent, and tho place is lively, it being on the great public road and thoroughfarti from the south-west to the north-east. (Population of Ala- bama 508,054 ; whites, 282,338 ; blacks, 823,897 ; froe, 1,819.) Montgomery to Augusta,Georgia, is 289 miies,via Walker's 25, Fort BainbridgeSl, Fort Mitchell on Chattahoochee is 25, Cunnels 33, Flint River 28, Macon 31, MilledgeVille 30, Sparta 22, Augusta 64, Charleston 136. As we leave Montgomery for the east, we pass a number of pleasant residences of the planters in a few miles, their houses of two stories, painted white, with piazzas and balco- nies : the soil of a dark rich description, well cultivated in cotton and corn ; the forest trees bemg the lofty live oak and other oaks, magnolia, and macrophylas, wherever the mois- ture of the ground admits of such a growth. After arriving at and passing the line of the Old Creek boundary amid a roost luxuriant vegetation for several miles, a long causeway over a marsh is encountered, and then a bridge 300 feet long; af- ter that a diversity of good and bad country ; and in a few miles a considerable stream with a bridge 80O feet in length, followed by another causeway over a swamp of a mile in width, with noble specimens of the magnolia 80 feet high, , and beautiful evergreens pervading the banks of the creeks and marshy spots. i^i- Route by steam-boat down the Alabama River to Mobile. *w Perhaps some travelers arriving at Montgomery from the east by stage or rail-road may be desirous of floating down ' the Alabama to, Mobile by steam-boat, for the sake of change or variety, or to rest their weary limbs, though the distaoco is much more than by land. <^ Near this place (Montgomery) the banks of the rivor are high, and consist of red earth with flint, and have a growth 'of willows; in 18 miles we arrive at Washington, and piss- >•/ i(r-f'w'«f'7itt*i M> L'ittibovne* »»l 4*a *.« 465 ing on our left the " Holy Ground " of Ihe Creek Indiang, and clie landing uf Vernon, Autau<;a, and Selma, on the nortli bank ; the general width of the river being 300 yards or lets. The right bank is 60 feet high, the left not lo much; the strata of clay and soil elsewhere alluded to, arc here also evident. Both shores are wooded close to the edge with willows, and farther back are oaks, planes, hickories, and other nuts, beech, ash, elder, and tall green canes. Flocks of bujEzards, wild geese, and ducks are seen in the season. The river is remarkably winding, and has many islands and sand banks in it. At Cahawba the right bank of the river is rather high, and since the seat of the State Govern- ment is transferred to TutcaUosa, its glory and prosperity has departed. A bad road leads up to the village, that has two very bruad streets that intersect at right angles : some of the houses are of brick, others are of wood at a distance from each other. Below Cahawba, the banks of the river are occasionally 100 feet high, of steep sand stone rock with gushing springs. ClMthome is on an eminence nn the left bank of the river. In three miles is Wiggins' Landing, the settlement being on a height, among tall, thin, old oak trees, with a very pic- turesque appearance, with the Spanish moss dangling from the trees : near thii place was a stockade in the Indian wars. Gov. Claiborne, when in Congress in 1801, gave the casting vote in the presidential election in favor of Jefferson, and against Burr, and was made Governor of Louisiana, and took possession of it when first acquired from the French in 1803 for $15,000,000. Hence the shores subside by degrees, but continue wood- ed with oak and covered by long moss, with a thick under growth of cane 20 feet high. The shores here being liable to be submerged, are thinly inhabited, and cut up into bayoui and islands. The uni)n of the Alabama and Tombigbee forms the Mobile River. Three miles below is Fort Stoddart, on the right bank and the 3l8t degree of north latitude, once the boundary between the United States and Spain. The river increases to half a mile in width. The dia- tance is 408 miles by water, 196 miles by land, yet, owing to bsd roads, the river route is used occasionally. n \» Route by land to A«gu$tay Georgia, 8fC. Vt^di tS^A .^..^K 1. Route by land to Ani^vstu, OeoryiAy throuyh Alabama* -'' (S«€ page 4640 On the road, a few milet before arriving at Fort Mitchell, are eininencei that give a view of the country around. The road is sandy and heavy ; pine trees the prevalent growth. The soil here assumes a reddish yellow hue, and the trees are of the hickory and nut-bearing tribes, oaks, &c. the road then becomes unpleasant and hilly for a few miles before we arrive at the Little and Great Uchee Rivers^ that are spanned by bridges, wh«n we plunge intaa region of oaks and hicko- ries, succeeded by pines, with the same reddish yellow soil, that in a^ few miles is supplanted by sandy and poor land, with the eternal pine trees, that continues through a very hilly country to the old Fort Bainbridge or United States •Agency, 81 miles from Montgomery. From this to the ChtUtahoochee River is 25 miles, M'hen we are near the old Fort Mitchell, that is to the north of the old ferry road on an eminence. Columbus, 11 milea north, is at the falls on tl ^t of the Chattahoochee, and has been founded about 10 j curs-, hero is a bridge. The river at the falls is only 350 feet wide, but soon widens to 750 feet. The town is 60 feet above the river, and covers 1,200 acres level surface. Two of the streets running north and south, parallel with the river, are 165 feet wide, and six others are J 32 feet, and the 12 that intersect are 99 feet wide. V Much praise is due to those that laid the plan on such a liberal scale, that, aided as It has been since by an intermix- ture of shade ornamental trees with the native forest, makes it a desirable residence. < The 614 half acre lots each brought from $100 to $1,859 in July, 1828, when there were 900 persons on the ground in temporary huts ; and in December there were 100 framed buildings finished and neatly painted. There is a fall of 1 1 1 feet in four mUe$ up above the town ; and as the water is clear and good, and brought to the place in aqueducts, it gives a facility in making jets and fountains. The distance to the confluence with the Flint River is 300 miles, to Appalachicola Bay 460 miles, taking 52 to 86 houra to descend by steam. It is 128 miles west-south- west of ■^j.'Ji.-^'i'.'k.i jlki*i'ui.>..v,'vii^'. Columbu* on the ChaUakoochee. 467 •»■« Milledgoville. The best road for carriages when the season is dry is via Clinton and Forsyth. The stores are well supplied, and the warehouses filled with cotton, and the place with planters and strangers, and girinj^ life and animation to trade. The river front is truly wild and pleasant, as the gardens interspersed exhibit taste, comfort, and wealth easily ac- quired. ; >^'t', Columbus being at the head of steam navigation, and hav- ing abundant water-power and a fertile cotton-growing country around, has grown to be a place of much considera- tion, and the new rail-roads leading to and from it render it a great thoroughfare. The population is 2,600. From Columbus the rail-road is to extend to Talbottown, thence to Macon and Savannah. ^The west bank of the ChMllahoochee at Fwt Mitchell is steep, and composed of the red earths before alluded to ; the east bank is lower and marshy, covered with willows, laurel, and cane, but on rising b« rond these we again encounter a hilly country, green thickets, laurel bushes, and at intervals a clay and sandy soil followed by pines, quite uninteresting ft>r 61 miles, the last part, though, being a handsome tract on the bank of the Flint River, a rapid stream that rushes over a rocky bed between very steep banks -j and here was an United States Agency for the Creek Indians, 21,000 in number. Ho-o-no-te-as-kah was the Indian name for the place. From this to Macon^ 31 miles, we pass through a more wild country, with log huts, oceasiooally sandy, rocky, and tineven, with pine woods, and again canes in low marshy spots, and oaks, laurels, and evergreens. The east head of Flint River is in De Kalb, and the west in Campbell County ; its entire course is 300 miles ; its depth at the union with the Chattahoochee is six feet ; breadth there 450 feet, admitting steam-boats to go up to Baiobridge, 50 miles farther. The Chattahoochee River is one of the largest in the State, and rises in Habersham County, and receiving several branches, runs south-west, and at 33® bends to the south, and has a winding channel 360 miles, where it meets, at the aouth-west corner ef the State, the flintf and forms the AppalaChiCOlt,-.'^^r> •./.l,'-*Ji'!>-.:- ,,,,-Wf ' '-.,. --.-..,;; i^;,, f: ;,.( ;>.« ' mm {\ ii m '•^.;^M Vicinity of Macon. i>j\:! It was first explored by steam-boats in 182t, and is 56(7 miles long and 760 feet wide at the mouih of the Flint. The principal rapids are from Columbus to Miller's Bendf 30 miles, and to this spot boats descend from De Kalb and the upper counties in the vicinity with produce. ^ When the river is quite low« ail the water at Columbus runs in a width of 3U or 40 feet and rushes over the falls with great velocity. A branch issues from a springy in the mountains, 900 yards from the source of the Hiwassee, that runs west into the Tennessee. The Jnike Turnpike crosses the river in Habersham 28 tines in eight mUea^ such are ifts serpentine wanderings and meaoderings amo ng the hills. nm-mr-mfMff:r.:_^ mtrw'"' Celumbus to y^'ugus/a 247 mites, to Macon is 112 miles^ via Christie 16, Waveriey 12, Lrberty 14, Marshairs Ferry 15, Thomaston 5, Barnsville 14, Forsyth 13, Macon 25. The direct course north-cast from Fort Mitchell, on the Chat^ tahoochee, to ]|[acon is but 92 miles ; the upper route is U8u< ally taken. The pine forest prevails, and the road is a bed of sand, in Which the wheels sink 12 inches^ Macon is the county town of Bibb County, and is situated on^ both sides of the Ocmulgee River, 32 miles west-south- wea^' of Milledgeville, and has a population of 3,000 collected since 1823. There are many neat and large houses, 70 stored, gro- cers, druggists, and confectioners. The old Fort Hawkins, with a tract of reserved land, is on the east side of (he river, over which is n bridge. The streets nm north-west and south-east, are 180 and 120 feet wide; and the Wharf-street nearest the river is 880 feet, the next 130 feet, and so on. Lots 'of 10 and 2& acres were sold in 1838; the great space and liberality exhibited in laying out gardens, highwajrs, and squares, &c. is very pleasing to strangers and residents. It is in the midst of a rich and fertile country ; and the steam-boat has got up thus far, yet produce and goods are put in flats, that carry from 500 to 800 bags of cotton, and return with 00 to 90 tons. The cotton crop sent from here is 50,000 bales ; the freight to Savannah, 62|| to 75^ cents per hundred. WJ < ptJf «5<' There are 14 saw mills and nine grist mills in Swift County and others. The town is healthy. The Macon Bank is a fine three stiyry edifice. Branches eilst (»f Staie and Darien Banks. ■'f\ Pifte Mouniaint. 469 J82t, and Is bGO >f the Flint. to Jfi7/er»» Bendf 'm De Kalb And ice. er at Columbu* >es over the falls itarns, 900 yards s west into the 1 Habersham 28 vranderings and n is iI2 miles^ farshall'g Ferry 13, Macon 25. 11, on the Chat- ter route is U8u< le road is a bed id is situated on i^est- south-west' colFected since 70 stores, gro- ved land, isoir The streets 20 feet wide; feet, the next were sold in in laying out y pleasing to ich and fertile r, yet produce o 800 bags of tton crop sent !iah,62ito7& lis in Swift The Macon xisft (»f Siaie Tfie Court House on Bridge-street is three stories high, 93 by 47 feet, with a cupola, and appears well from Fort Hawkins, on the east side of the river ; the basement con- tains various offices, and in the second story are large rooms U*t C( 'irt and County purposes, in the third nre clerks' rooms. There are places of worship for Baptists, Presbyterians, and Methodists, Thomaston,in Upson County, is oneofthe prettiest villages in Georgia, and is 11 miles cast of MarshaH's Ferry on Flmt Kiv.er, 75 miles west-south-west of Milledgeville, 45 west of Macon, 30 west-soulh-west of Forsythe, and has 50 houses, 20 stores, four law and four medical offices, a court-honse of brick rough-cast, jail, maleaad female academy, a Methodist church. The soil in town is sandy, but in the vicinity red clay and very fertile; the plantations around on Potato Creek are highly cuhivated. Ther^ are lively falls within a short dis- tance. 10 miles north is Zeiulcn in ?ik« County, and on the road thence to Indian Spring is Bath, where the road crost es the Ocmulgee River, that is 70 miles long and 90 feet wide; and at the falls or high shoals 12 miles north-west of For- sythe, it widens to 100 yards, and is separated for some rods by an island; the descent is 10/ee( in 100 yards. The Pine AJbuntotns are a range that is traveled over in going from Zebulon in Pike County to Thomaston; they ex- tend south-west through Merriwethe and Harris Counties to the Chattahoochee River, and rise to QdOfeet at the highest summits, in a gradual ascent of four miles each side. Thty cause the rapids where they cross 25 miles aitove Columbus ; at Miller^s 3end below West Point, in Troup County ; to this point, produce is floated down from the up country, and wagoned to Columbus. Miller's Bend is a crook in the Chattahoochee, in latitude 32° 52' IG'^t where the line of Georgia and Alabama di- verges from the river, and !'ins north 9° 26' 3G^^ to Nicojack on the Tennessee, 146 miles; this line was made by Georgia alone. Forsythe, in Monroe County, occupies elevated ground in latitude 33° 12^ below the Towcloga, 50 miles west-north- west of Milledgeville, and has 100 houses and stores, an academy, Baptist churdi, a court-house, jail, and an air of neatness pervades the place. The road from Macon to Mil- ledgeville, 30 miles, is sandy and uneven, through pine woods, 40 i70 -f... m mutdgtmt* ■rtk- '<. with piiiohei of cotton and Indian corn in tiie nrnMoii ; llifT bmikH oi tlio Ocont)o oro hi^li mid Mloop. MiUedgevUUt tito i«&t of lli« Hlnto Lrgiffluturn, in on tl)«r w««t bHiiii of tne Oconvo llivnr, in Intitudu 33!' 4' lU^^ at lliit limit o( nttvi(;ation, 15H milui iioi(li«weit oi SnvNiitinli, Hil weit>ioutli-w«Nt oC Au^iiktn, 11)8 tiotili of Dnridn, 71 ioiilii of Attiont4, 2)0 cimtiiorltfnnNl of Miuon, l'J5 Irorii l'«>lumi)UR, nnd ItfB from Montgomery, AiubnmM. It it* wii nlwntrd Krounu, iinii 20 itreoti nnd iuwr nqunrei, bniitHlfld moiiIIi i>y Fishing Crt^oli iind «ai»l hy (li« Oc n(t«, 65(; f««t «vi of n iniln from iho rivur, in )iie ct'ntro of State llonHo hf|uar», on wliict* are alio thrnu plucci of woraliip on tlio oortii vido incinjj the Stato IIouio. (iaiiiiid by a powder niagHzine, Artcnal, and academy. Tho jail and courl-lioufe ate on the i(|uare near the PenUenUaryt where tiie mi^ainnarica to tho CUntoUwi* were confinod ; this iit a largo brick editico with a high wal)^ and a ivntry at eacli corner to overlook ijio yard. A turret or» the top of tho prison ban an oxteniiive view over tiie town and county, that is uneven and covered with woud from tho edge of the aetllemeoiDr and in monotonous and dull. The gothic Stuto Home contains the looms for the Legis- lature and public odicerN, and lire- proof rooms for records; ho large hall, (10 by 54 feet, lian lull length portraits of Gen. Oglethorpe, Lafayette, Washington, and Jefferson, and ai» old ono of Ugletitorpe is in the benuto Chamber. This edifice cost i)ill 1.5,000. The markel'housc haa a room for the police. Tliero are three banks. The cotton warehouses, one and hulfmitei below the bridge^ have a canal and locks. Troni 4 OUO to H,000 bags aio sent from here annually; tho soil is red, the sui face variegated; the pino lands aro a "-^fuj^u in cuae of sickncas; the Moun« tain Spout Hotel is three 4|uartera of a mile oH'and mucii fre- quented. The Indian Springs in Bulla County nro in the forki oC two creeks 10 miles west of the Ocmulgee, and contain aul- phur and other ingredients, and arc used for the gravel, rheu- matiam, and cutaneous dist^aiei, ond to remove the free us» of calomel* Hetnerf/ in Virginia. 471 thff the , m lUlll bu», Ird by II nd uiuS Iho uiit ; ' ^T\i<*y iirfl moit fnililnnnbly frfqiirntml, iinil fifreim larf^M liotcl thnt can rur'^iva 100 pnrNoriN ; nlio 50 cabin« nrnt flttd r.omforttilflft, (hnt nro r«n(«?'d with carbonnte of linif ; liie veMela in whicTi it ia prepor- i.mI Cor culinary u<4e aoon I forne lined with a white calcare- ous crunt ; nor ia ita laiile i hn only in'^onvenience experienced by the traveler tif "rntttomed to it; It often injurea the health of a itrangc., d rover* the xurfaccofthe body with cutaneous oruptionr. Tho country between the H' e Ridge and thr Cnmherland Mountain*, in Kast Tennesinfe, in journevinii fronri north- vnni to Kouth-woHt, over the ftne rnnftea ot the Allaghanies. The strata lies in the name ranf^e as the moon^ tins, wih an nngle or ins^ensible to its charms, for in the name which they have given to the Look-out Moun- Nieojaek Cave, Tennes$ee. 473 tain, we have a laconic but very striking description of the icenery. This name, in the Cherokee languai^e, without the aspirated sounds, is 0-tullee-ton*tanna-ia-kunna-ee, lite- rally mountains looking at^each other. This spot is near the north-west angle of Georgia and the Tennessee line. A sandstone rock of a peculiar character, that abounds here, is used for millstones at the missionary settlement of Brainerd, eight miles east of the Look-out Mountain. A great number of caves are found in this region, both in the inclined and horizontal limestone; some of them are se- veral miles in extent, and abound in alkaline salts. The great Nieojaek Cave, in the Cherokee country, is 20 miles south-west of the Look-out Mountain, and half a mile from the south bank of the Tennessee River. The Raccoon Mountain, in which it is situated, here fronts to the north-east. Immense layer» of horizontal limestone form a precipice of considerable leis^ht ; in this precipice the cave commences, not however with an opening of a few feet, as is common, but with a mouth 50 feet high, and 160 wide; its roof formed by a solid and regular layer of limestone, having no support but the sides of the cave, and is as level as the floor of a house. The entrance is partly ob- structed by piles of fallen rocks, which appear to have been dislodged by some great convulsion. From its entrance the cave consists chiefly of one grand excavation through the rocks, preserving, for a great distance, the same dimensions as at its mouth. What is more remarkable than all, it forms, for the whole distance it has yet been explored, a walled and vaulted pas- sasre for a stream of cool and limpid water, which, where it leaves the cave, is six feet deep, and 60 feet wide. A few years since, a Col. James Ore, of Tennessee, commencing early in the morning, followed up the course of this creek in a canoe through this extensive cave, or natural tunnel, far three miles. He then came to a fall of water, and was obliged to return without making any farther discovery, havmg been busily enj^aged in his subterranean voyage for 12 hours. He smt^d that the course of the cave, after pro- ceeding some way to the south-west, became south and «outh-ea8t>hy>soutb the remaining distance. Here is a dirong temptation to penetrate to its utmost limit the hidden splen- dors of this mysterious excavation. There are several apart- menls leading out of the main cavern, that furnish the earth 40* 474 Scenery of Norih Carolina^ that, by lixiviaiinn and cry8talli2ation, produce the nitra t e of potash. In the space of 20 feet siiuare 100 human sku tU were found, lying in great confusion. The natives to this day use similar caves as burial-places tor their dead. i . Tlie Pilot and Sa^^rata mountain and Torjr Honse or Cave, Kocicingliani County, North Carolina, and tbe Pin« t nacies of tlie ]>an in Virg^inia. In approaching from the east, the first glimp«e of the Pilot Mountain resembles a magnificent temple with a su- perb cupola, not unlike the dome of St. Peter's at Rome. The symmetry of ita structure is still preserved on a nearer vieu', and nothin;; can exceed the regularity and beauty of its appearance. The country around, for a great extent, es- pecially to the east and south, though undulating, is still so low, compared with this eminence, that the latter seems al- most to rise from an immense plain. Grassy Creek, a small stream, runs at the base, from which the ascent is so gradual that one may proceed on horseback, the acclivity being only about 20°, until you ar- rive at a spring and a port of rest and refreshment ; and from its temperature, 58°, this may be assumed as the ave- rage temperature of this position. From this spot the ascent becomes more abrupt and fa- ticuing on the north side to the foot of the pinnacle, and the only practicable pass to the summit. The form of the pin- nacle is almost perfectly cylindrical. The perpendicular wall is 201) feet in height, and many of the visitants, unac- customed as they are to Alpine scenery, are so affected by the bewildering aspect of the world below them, and so ap- palled at the idea of hanging on the sides of the cliff that frowns over their heads, that no persuasion can induce them to ascend the pinnacle. The path is indeed narrow and steep, but it appears, when viewed from below, more for- midable than it really is. In some places the ascent is nearly perpendicular, but convenient cavities and projec- tions are found, by which the feet and hands may be made suie. The course winds along westwaisdiy on Ihesideof the clifl) and at length passes abruptly over its brow, and the / Scenery of North Carolina, 475 nitra t e I skuMs to this md fa- ' nd the IS adventurer finds htmseif on the convex summit. More than three-fourths of the horizon is distinctly in view. On the south and south-west spreads an interminable plain, meeting the sky like the ocean. On the west and north the Blue Ridge presents an outline of unrivalled grandeur, and the Sawrata on the east, and on the south-west are caught a few glimpses of the Yadkin River. The height of the mountain, above the creek, is 1,551 feet, and of the pinnacle 250 feet on the south side. Al- though this height may not be thought remarkable by those familiar with mountainous regions, yet it must be recollect- ed the Pilot stands alone ns un advanced guard, and that the neighboring country, for 40 miles around, is compara- tively a plain, and those that ascend this mountain have just emerged from a region over which the prospects are ob- structed, and the horizon concealed by boundless forests, and that the Pilot is a most favorable post of observation for viewing the Blue Ridge in its sublimest attitude. The geology of the mounte.in can be favorably observed by following a foot-path that environs it close to its base. The j-innacie is made up of mica, slate, and quarts; its rocky wall is full of rents from top to bottom, and it is re- gularly stratified, the strata dipping easterly at an angle of 10^, and is divided into tabular masses by the seams. The most abundant rocA is a peculiar kind of grit-rock, compos- ed of very fine granular quartz, with flesh-red mica inti- mately disseminated ; the texture is exquisitely fine, and the cohesion so loose that it may be crumbled between the fingers into the finest white sand. Mill-stones and grind- stones are quarried from this and other mountains on the north-west side df the Pilot. The Sawrata Mountain, though higher than the ^ilof, is less difficult and perilous in tho ascent ; the view from the summit is similar. The scenery that adorns the sides of Moore's Mountain is also worth seeing. On the ascent is a cascade, which, though small, is emi- nently pleasing to the eye, presenting suddenly to the visit- er, in a chasm between perpendicular rocks 65 feet in height, a narrow sheet of silvery foam, falling first down a precipice 30 feet, and then rolling down an inclined plane With peculiar grace and beauty. This water-fall is so hid- den among inaccessible rocks, as to be known to very few persons. 476 Interior Mountain Scenery. The Tory House is a celebrated grotto, the access to which on all sides is precipitous and difficult. Hence it was select- ed during^ the revolutionary war by a number of tories and marauders, who occaeionally sallied forth upon the low- lands, and plundered the inhabitants. This secluded spot has an arched entrance, after passing which we find ourselves in a vaulted cavern of very regular structure, 15 feet high, 60 feet long, and 20 feet wide in the centre, but converging towards the farther end. The arch is throughout remarka- bly well turned. The rocks consist of angular pieces of quartz, so wedsed as to fit each other with great precision. The height of Moore's Mountain is 1,833 feet. Petrifactions of trees are found two miles east of Gcrmantown, and in the road. The Pinnacles of Ike Dan, in Virginia, are remarkable emi- nences, where the head waters of the Roanoke find their way through the Blue Ridge. This is truly the regi ^^^ easiest of access, the most beautiful, and will best repay the labor of ascending. Near its south-west extremity is a body of rocks looking like the ruins of an old castle. The top is a vast meadow or plain, without a tree to obstruct the prospect ; where a person may gallop his horse for a mite or two, with Carolina at his feet on one side, and Tennessee on the other, and a green ocean of mountains raised into tremendous billows immediately about him. It is the Elysium of south- em botanists, as a number of plants are found growing in this cold and humid atmosphere, that are not seen again till we have gone hundreds of miles farther north. It is the pas- ture-grouiid for the young horses for the whole country about it during summer. The strawberry is found here in abun- dance, and of the finest quality as to flavor, long after it has gone from the plains beneath. The Black Mountain is a long ridge 30 miles from Mor- ganton. It has some peaks of greater elevation than any east of the Rocky Mouniainsj and believed to be the highest mountain in the United States, Mount Washington, in New Hampshire, 6,234; highest peak of the Black, 6,476; Roan, 6.038 ; Peaks of Otter, 3,955 ; Black, at T. Young's, 5,946 ; Yeates' Knob, 5,895 ; Grand- father, 5,556; Table iVlountain, Burke, North Carolina, 3,421 ; Catskill, 3,804. The Bald Mountain and the White Top, in Virginia, are nearly if not quite as high as the Roan. In the south-east 478 Black and Saluda MounUtiut. part of Heyward County, near the South Carolina line, ii a iremendous pile ; and between Heyward, and Macon, and Tennessee, the Unika soars up high. The Pilot Mountain, that has heretofore enjoyed great ce- lebrity, is much lower than several others. The ascent of the Black Mountain is very difficult on account of the thick )aurels that are so closely set, and their strong branches so interwoven, that a path cannot be forced by pushing them aside; and the hunters have no method of advancing, when they fall in with the worst of them, but that of crawling along their tops. The bear, in passing up between the mountains, fyids it easiest to keep the ridges ; and trampling down the young laurels as they spring up, breaking the limbs from th9 old ones, and pushing them aside, he forms at last a sort of burrow above ground through this bed of vegeta- tion, along which ho passes without difficulty : this is a bear- trail. The top is covered with the balsam fir, from the dark and sombre 8hai(ants ofthe city of Charleston have their villas, nestling among the se« eluded recesses of the mountains. The descent of the French Broad River, from its head sources in Buncombe County, North Carolina, (from the De- vil's Court House Mountain j and the Hog's Back Mountains, to where it passes through the Unika, Smoky, or Bald Moun* tain,) is near or quite 1,500 feet in 40 miles, and of course must ofier n continued scene of wild romantic beauty. Here we are at the very fountain-head of one ofthe auxiliories of the Ohio and Mississippi, near the confines of Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Tennessee. The road follows a deep gorge, that embosoms the roaring waters of the French Broad branch ofthe Tennessee River; we are upon a side hill, with only barely enough of excavation from its steep slope to give a precarious footing for horses and carriages, the'lofty precipice on one side, the deep, dark, yiiwning valley on the other. We hear the furious, brawling stream, at first concealed from view by thick, impervious trees and shrubbery, projecting rocks o'erarching and shrouding the workings of the furious element, and then again suddenly disclosing it for a moment in its rapid career, and anon vanishing in its onward course, gathering force and grandeur at everjr step of its descent, amid opposing riDcks, acute and graceful turnings, green tufted islands, and bleak, worn masses of sharp rocks, giving every variety to the picture, aided by the beautiful laurel and rhododendron/ and the mosses and shrubbery attached to the rocks like a thick coat of frosting and sugar-plumb ornament to an im- mense cake. Cascades, tricked out in all the witchery of nature, leap from rock to rock, and are received in deep-shaded reser« voirs, tempting the bather and the thirsty soul to enjoy the treat. The day can be spent in revelling in these lovely scenes ; we forget all sense of fatigue in the deep excitement we enjov and the pure air we breathe. The Painted Rock is a lofty wall of 200 or 300 feet, that rises by the road in near proximity, and is staiaed of a yel- 480 Mountain* in Georgia. low color by the exudation of water through the crevices 'eading ftom beds of clay, as is seen at the painted or pic- 'Ured rocks on the shores of Lake Superior, and doubtless Hi many other places. Passing this we are et the termination ^f the gorge, and emerge upon the State of Tennessee. The CurroAee Mountain, near Clarkesville, in Habersham tnd Franklin Counties, in the north-east part of Georgia, '.ppears, as it 1)4 seen from the south, to be insulated, no >ther eminences being seen ; but it is, in fact, a spur that 'manates from the Blue Ridge or Alleghany Mountains, as nay be seen from its conical summit of 650 feet. There is ^ boundless prospect over the country to the south-east And south-west ; to the north-west, at 30 miles, the Blue Ridge is seen majestically soaring, being at the head-watorit tbatemptyintotheSavannah, Chattahoochee, and Coosa Ri- vers, and forming the ridge or roof that separates the waters that run into the Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers, from those emptying south-east to the coast of Georgia, or south into the Gulf of Mexico. It is four miles south-west of Toc- koa Falls; 16 north-west of Carnesville; five south-east of Clarkesville. There is a much-frequented public-house at the base of the mountain, where, during the heats of summer in the low country, the gentry resort for a change of air, and to enjoy the mountain scenery, and the Falls of Tockoa anu Tallulah. (See page 483) In Gilmer, near the line of Lump- kin County, is a remarkable fall of 400 feet, 18 miles west of Dahlochnega, latitude 34° 30^ From Clarkesville the roads in all directions are very pleasant, but especially in going to the south-west and in coming from Gainesville to Clarkesville, when the view of the Yumah Mountain, in a favorable time, as light and shade may offer, is charming in the highest degree. Clarkesville i& the county town of Habersham f\n Georgia; and is, from its location in a temperate region in the vici- nity of the mountains, a healthy and delightful residence, favorable for a place of departure to reach the Falls of Toe- coaand Tellulah. The brick Court-house, as usual in coun- try towns in the south, fornas the nucleus of the public square ; and the neat, airy, well-built residences of the wealthy and comfortable citizens are built at suitable inter- vals afound the green square. The Xaueoochy Vallev, with its small Indian mound, will be noticed as worthy of attention, from the relic* that have r , i ■.-Ai^-^i.if^'-.'ri-'. 1.: Scenery in Georgia. 481 boen (lieinterre'l at this spot, and as being an old Indian field. The Cowela FallSf on the Chuttahuochee River, arc at the head of iteam-boai navigation, near the town of Columbui, in Georgia, where the river is 400 or 500 yards wide, and at the fall or rapid \h out 12 or 15 feet in all, or rather but a 8eries of shoals; yet, occurring as they do in a flat country, they form a feature that gives life and animation to the vi- cinity ; and something of beauty, from the irregularity of the curves of the foaming billows ihat are presented in various aspects from the adjacent shores, and from the bridges con- necling Columbus with the shore in Alabama. An agreeable promenade, in a venerable grove, has been judiciously preserved by the citizens, in laying out the town near the Fulls; and the native forest trees have ahobeen in 1«me measure retained, and are intermingled with the resi- dences and grounds for their salutary shade and ornament. The river, for many miles above Columbus, forms a series of rapids, and its shores have much of picturesque beauty for those that have time and inclination to visit them, amid the wild ravines and bold bluffs that repel all attempts to explore them, except on foot — winding along near the bank of the river, and keeping a sharp look-out for rattlesnakes, and Indians, flowers, &c. Great Stone or Rock Iflouiitaiii in Be Kalb County, Georgia. tain in South Carolina, and the Pilot and Sawrata Moun- tains in North Carolina, and the Pmnaclee of the Dan and peaks of Otter in Virginia, might all be visited on ihe way to the different Virginia Springs. \ \ The Stone Mountain is so much of a curiosity in that part of the world, that no traveler ever omits visiting it. There is a comfortable house at the base of the mountain for the accommodation of travelers, kept by a Mr. Wood, who also officiates as guide in visiting that neighborhood. It is said to be an immense outline of solid and barren rock, towering far above the high hills around it. The ascent is a mile and a quarter; the south is steep, and on the north it is nearly perpendicular, or overhanging with, an aspect fearful and frowning to behold. The view from the top is extensive and imposing, and gives the beholder a bird's eye view of the lower counties towards the coast, presenting in its general aspect an ocean of verdure, with here and there a cotton plantation, and on the north the hilly region round the head waters of the Chattahoochee River, with the clear and regu- lar defined blue outline of the lofty Alleghanies on the ex- tremcst verge of the horizon. Far beneath your feet, the clouds float Iig4itly and shroud the rough flatures of the rocks, and occasionally collect in masses and emit flashes of electricity, followed by the reverberating peal of thunder, dying away in distant echoes, and giving new features of sublimity to the scene, much to the gratihcation of the con- templative traveler. The rock consists of a solid free-stone, porous but very hard, the top is nearly flat and about 300 feet in diameter. The circumference of the base of this vast pyramidical for- ' Tochoa and TaUulah Falls. 483 _ i,,*J»L*> ' rnatioh is about seven miles ; a.>d t]\e heiglit near 3,000 feet ; the whole covers 250 acres. A wall of rocks, six to eight feet high, id a wonder, environing the mountain about one- fifth of the way down ; no one knows any thing of or about the makers of this stupendous work of man. The Rock Bridge is six miles easterly from the Rock Mountain, where the road to and from Monroe, in Walton County, passes over this natural bridge of nolid rock, that extendi nearly across the Yellow River, one of the branches of the Ocmulgee. ^ , Tockoa and Tallulali Falls in Oeorg^la, • Habersham County. Those only who have visited and contemplated this in- teresting section of our country, can justly appreciate the beauty and magnificence, and the wildness and sublimity of the natural scenery around the southern termination of the Blue Ridge. There are many rich scenes, whose unknown and heretofore unfrequented recesses have never yet been described, along the western and mountainous border of the Carolinas and Georgia. Tockoa Fall is in a small creek of the same name, just be- fore it runs into the Tu^aloo, 150 miles north-west from Augusta. The perpendicular fall is 186 feet. It is surround- ed by no wild scenery. The rivulet, disturbed by no rapids, moves with a gentle current, and drops without warning into a beautiful basin below, expanding into tine rain before it reaches the bottom; the breeze which always plays there spreads a thick spray around, and ornaments the falling water, the rock and the shrubbery with rainbows. A car- riage-road is within a stone's throw of the falls, and a party can ride to the base and toths summit of the precipice. The Tockoa produces a sensation rather of the beautiful than the sublime ; it pleases but does not terrify; it satisfies, but does nut overwhelm the expectation. It is a fine preparation for the scenery which awaits the traveler 16 miles to the northward. The rapids of TaUulah are in Georgia, in Habersham County, 10 miles above the union of the Taltulah and Chataoga Rivers, which form tho Tugaloo, five miles from South Carolina, and about 20 miles from the line of North I' i 1 484 Falls in Georgia. Carolina. Ttie river, that is 40 yards wide above the rapids, is forced, for a mile and a fourth, through a range of moun- tains into a channel scarcely 20 feot broad. TUe mountain receives the water into a broad basin, surrounded by solid rocti 100 feet in height. Here the stream pauses in antici- pation of the gulf below; then rushes down a cataract 40 feet, then hurrying through a narrow winding passage, dashing from side to side against the precipice, and repeat- edly turning at right angles, is precipitated 100 feet, and in a moment afler, 50 feet more, and then, making many short turns, it rushes down three or four fails of 20 and 10 feet. The sum of the fall in the distance of a mile is estimated at 350 feet. T.'^e rapids, however splendid apart from the sublimity with which they are surrounded, are only an appendage to the stupendous banks of solid rock descending almost per- pendicularly to the water on both sides of the river, and varying in the distance of a mile, from 700 to 1,000 feet in height, so that the stream literally passes in that distance through the mountain, or rather through the high lands that connect two mountains. The visiter approaches from the west, finds an easy descent for the last mile, and drives his carriage to the very edge of the gulf. No unusual appear- ances of pointed rocks or broken lands admonish him that the rapids are near, till suddenly he sees the opening abyss. He advances cautiously from tree to tree, till lie looks down upon the water. Instantly his mind surrenders itself to the overwhelming sensation of awe and amazement. Some visiters, hurrying down to the brink without giviug the mind time to collect itself, experience dizziness and faintness, and are compelled to crawl back. Here are no artificial em- bellishments. The scenery wears the artless robe of nature's wildness. The romantic variety, magnificence, and sublimi- ty of Jehovah^s works are untouched by human hands. The itapids are in the bosom of a forest. In front of the spectator, the perpendicular face of the rock on the opposite shore presents a variety uf figures and colors, brown, white, azure, and purple, overhanging, re- ceding, angular, and square surfaces ; figures in bas-^relief, ornamented with shrubbery ; small rivulets falling in grace- ful cascades down the precipice ; the opening abyss lined with massive rock ; the foaming, roaring water at the bot- tom, encircled by rainbows, are all seen at one view. The f ^ f, if '---y- .v;.i Georgia Falls, 485 C^ scenery does not lose its power by long and minute examina- tion ; the writer lingered about the rapids three days, and the effect was rather heightened by new discoveries than weakened by familiarity. The most magnificent general view is from a part of the precipice which projects over the abyss 20 feet, and which is gained by a descent of 15 feet. This is halfway between the commencement and the termination of the rapids, near the highest part of the mountain through which they pass, not less than 1,000 feet above the water, and Hfibrdsthe best view of the second and third falls, one of which is almost under the projection. The rock-house, formerly the entrance of the Indian's paradise, but now the eagle's habitation, is seen ; the earth in front and on either hand opens wide and deep ; under it is seen and heard the pouring and dashing of the cataracts. 4 Tlie rock-house is an entrance, apparently 10 feet square, leading into the perpendicular face of the rock, too far down the side to be accessible. We were informed by the guide, of nn Indian trac^ition, that this is the door of jIlLradise. They had frequently traced iheir lost companions to this spot, and could never hear of them again ; since which.no Indian has been known to hunt near the rapids of Tallulah. At present the less superstitious eagle finds there a safe retreat to rear her young. There are three places of descent to the bed of the river; two of these meet at the same place, and the other leads to the bottom of the upper fall. The other falls have been ap- proached very seldom, and only by fording up the stream. Both descents cannot easily be performed the same day ; the upper one to the fall is the most interesting. To look out at the opening of this deep gulf pays the excessive fatigue of the lower descent, but the view from several positions above produces the most enchanting effect of grandeur and sub« Jimity. The best judges, however, unanimously express a prefer- ence for the rapids of Tallulah. As at the Table Mountain, BO also two days at least should be devoted to the rapids. Mud Creek Fall is 25 miles north of Tallulah. The whole fall of the cataract is 280 feet, and the effect is eminently iuteresting. The Carribee Mountain, one mile from the Tockoa Falls, as first described, afibrds a rich reward for the toil of gaininff 41* p 486 Falls in Georgia. I. its gummit. On ihe north is a view of the Blue Ridge, sun pasied in its progpect of mountain piled on mountains, per- haps by no other site in the United States. On the south, Georgia and South Carolina, vrith the exception of a few plantations on the Tugaloo, present ono unbroken forest as far as the eyesight extends. As you traverse this forest you will sometimes see splendid situations insulated from the rest of the world in the fertile valleys, surrounded by the conveniences, the elegancies, and the domestic refinements of social life. The fertility of the soil, the salubrity of the climate, the vicinity of boat navigation, in a word, every na- tural advantage unites to persuade u«( that cultivated planta- tions, elegant and happy homes, and spires of churches, may one day be seen from the Carribte, as they are now from the top of Mount Holyoke. The mountain rock through which the TalUiIah passeg ig of a dark grey, sometimes approaching a blue color. The first bed of rocks, descending perhaps 160 feet, is irregularly broken into masses of all forms and sizes, then succeed others with loM[ parallel seams, dipping in a regular line with the fall of the river ; these rest upon a third class of rocks, solid and of a light grey, which form the bed of the stream. The Indians say that no fish, not even the smalle»t minnow, are found above the rapids. Springs impregnated with lime and iron are found in the vicinity. Alum and a hill containing a mineral resembling coal are situated below the rapids. A few white pine and hemlock trees grow upon the rapids. They are the only trees of the kind which I have seen in South Carolina and Georgia, and gentlemen from both these States were of our party who had never before seen the species. None of our company had seen the spruce pine in these Stales. We no- ticed eight species of oaks, white, red, black, Spanish post, black jack, chestnut, and live oak. The following is from an ancient '^history of the Chero- kee country : The natives make two divisions of their country, which they term Ayratt and Ottare^ or low and mountainous. The former division is on the head-waters of the beautiful Savan- nah River, and the latter on those of the easternmost river of the Mississippi. Their towns are always close to some river or creek, as there the land is commonly very level and fer- ^ Atpeci of the Cherokee Country, Ml , tile, on account of the frequent washings off the moiintaini, and the moisture it receives from the waters that run through their fields. The eastern or lower parts of this country are eharo and cold to a Carolinian in winter, and yet agreeable ; but those towns that lie among the Appalache Mountains are very pinthing to such who are unaccustomed to a savage life. The ice and moio continues on the north side till late in the spring of the year — however the natives are well provided for it by their bathing and anointing themselves. This regi- men shuts up the pores of the body, and by that means pre- vents too great a perspiration ; and an accustomed exercise of bunting, joined with the former, puts them far above their climate ; they are almost as impenetrable to cold as a bar of steel, and the severest cold is no detriment to their hunting. Formerly the Cherokces were a very numerous and potent nation. Not above 40 years ago they had 64 towns and villa- ges, populous and full of women and children, and 6,000 fighting men, defended by blue-topped ledges of inaccessi- ble mountains, where a few could make a successful cam- paign even against their own watchful red-color enemies. Their towns were scattered wide of each other, the land not admitting of any other settlement ; it is a rare thing to see a level tract of 400 acres. They are also strongly attached to rivers, all retaining the opinion of the ancients, that rivers are necessary to constitute a paradise. Their rivers are ge- nerally very shallow and pleasant to the eye, for the land being high, the waters have a quick descent ; they seldom overflow their banks, unless when a heavy rain falls on a deep snow ; then it is frightful to see the huge pieces of ice, mixed with a prodigious torrent of water, rolling down the high mountains, and over the steep craggy rocks, so im- petuous that nothing can resist their force. Two old tra- ders saw an instance of this kind which swept away great plantations of oaks and pines, that had their foundations as in the centre of the earth, it overset several of the higher rocks, where the huge rafts of trees and ice had stopped up the main channel, and forced itself through the smaller hills. Where the land is capable of cultivation, it would produce any thing suitable to the climate. Hemp and wild vine grapes grow there spontaneously to admiration in plenty and variety, if these were properly cultivated, there must t I H tr 488 Cherokee Mountain*. ''^> I I ■': ■«' he a good return. There is not a more healthful region under the sun than this country, for the air is commonly open and clear, and plenty of wholesome and pleasant wa- ter. 1 know several bold rivers that fill themselves in run* ning about 30 miles, counting by a direct course from their se- veral different founiainx, and which are almost as'transparent as glaHS. The natives live commonly to a great age, which is not to be wondered at, when we consider the high situation of their country ; the exercises they pursue ; the richness of the soil, that produces plenty for a needful support of life, without fatiguing or overheating the planters; the advanta- ges they receive from such excellent good water as gushes out of every hill ; and the great additional help by a plain abstemious life, commonly eating And drinking only ac- cording to the solicitations of nature. Those reach to a great age who live secure by the fire-side, but no climates or constitutions can harden the human body and make it bu'- let-proof. The Cherokee country abounds with the best herbage on the richer parts of the hills and mountains, and a great variety of valuable herbs is promiscuously scattered on the lower lands. From the head of the southern branch of SavannahKiyer it does not exceed half a mile to a head spring of the Mi»- sissippi water, that runs through the middle and upper parts (the Tennessee River) of the Cherokee nation about a north- west course, and joining other rivers, they empty themselves into the great Mississippi River. The above fountain is call- ed Herbert's Spring, no named from an early commissioner of Indian affairs ; it is a noted, well situated, and good spring. The Cherokee Mountains look very formidable to a stran- ger, when he is among their valleys, encircled with their pro- digious, proud, contending tops ; they appear as a great mass of black and blue clouds, interspersed with some rays of light. But they produce or contain every thing (or health and wealth ; and if cultivated by the rules of art, would furnish, perhaps, as valuable medicines as the eastern countries, and as great quantities of gold and silver as Peru and Mexico, in proportion to iheir situation with the equator. On the tops of several of these mountains I have observed tufts of grass deeply tinctured by the mineral exhalations from the earth, and on the side they glistened from the same cause. If skil- ful alchy mists made experiments on these mountains, they could soon satisfy themselves as to the value of their con- tents, and probably would find their account in it. lioMle up thi Houiatonick. 489 New Rail-road and Statfc^roule up the Valley of the lloiisalonlck from BrldKe- port or New Haven* Bridgeport is reached in four or five hours, by a daily steam-boat line, that starts at 6 or 7 o'clock in the morninfi; from the vicinity of Catharine Market or Slip, East River } fare 50 to 75 cents ; distance 58 miles. (See page 316.) * The neio rail'^road is hen* entered upon, that is finished, and in daily use to New Milford, 37 miles on the Housato- nick, passion in a north-west direction up the borders of the Pequannee River, through the County of Fairfield and the townships of Trumbull and Newtown ; crossing the HoU'> satonic on a viaduct to New Milford, and eontinuins up the beautiful valley to Sheffield and Stockbridga, Massacnusetts. This route may even be used in winter, or any other sea- son, to reach Albany, in competition with other facilities from New-York or New Haven ; or to reach Derby, Dau- bury, Southbury, Woodbury, Roxbury, Bethlehem, Litch- field, or many other places in the western parts of Con- necticut. The Valley of the Pompefaug River, extending north from its junction with the Housatonick, opposite or ncxr New- town, through Southbury and Woodbury, is worthy of no- tice, as possessing peculiar attraction in rural beauty for se- veral miles on the nearest road to Litchfield. Travelers that prefer to take the steam-boat direct from New- York to New Haven, and thence by stage to Albany, will intersect the above route from Bridgeport, in the north- west part of Connecticut ; thus one may be used in goings the other in returning. ^' Mincralogical Tour* i Koute from J^eio Haven through Woodbridge, 10 mllos ; Bethany, Middlebury, Waterhury, 10; Watertown, 8; to Litchfield, 10; and thence to Goshen, G ; Canaan, 9; Salis- bury, and by the Housatonick Valley, through Sheffield, 12 ; Great Harrington, G ; Stockbridge, 13 ; Concord and Al- bany, 26. £very week-day stages depart on the route, leaving New f( 410 htinernlogical Tour. Ha?en early in tho morning, and arrivinfi: in AlUony the neit day Qt a o'clock P. M. ; dimiince 110 niiieti; farif $5. ' riiiH intorciting rido Icadu through New Hiiven nnd Litchfiuld Couiitifn, in Connecticut, and tho w«>itern piirt of Borkihiio, in MnstsiMchusetta, by h inuuntum mute replete with beauty, and hIio of rouiu notoriety in a ininoralogical and geoloKical conaiderHtion. % The landy nnd level plHin of New Haven in pasfied in a westerly direction, forHlmut two nnles to ilotchkiastown, at the basie of the West Rock, before dcneribod, (seo pogo 303,) MS a body of green-stone or trap, resting on Nandsione, and presenting n bold nnd precipitous front of 400 foot high. Ai>er rounding this ridgn close to its base, the rood takes up a direction more northerly in a vallov, contracted on the east by the green-stone range, ond on tho west by hills of slate- rock ; thisi gorge continues for some miles these striking and inagnificenl features. The range on the tight in honi-y,gray, atid time-worn, except where niae^ses have been loosened by the elements, or sundered and toin awny, defaced nnd red- dened by the spoliations of man, for the use of the ncigli- boring people, and in New Horvcn. As we proceed north, this range ia concealed by the culti- vated slopes that gradually creep up and encroach on ita sides ; the hills on the left are rather abrupt in dencent to- M'ards the valley. A few miles onward the trap range en- tirely disappears beneath the soil that is clad in thick for- ests on the crowning summit. Tho rond follows near a ver- dant low ground, and u lively niillstream at the base of the ranges. Lodge, or Hatchet Fort, about seven miles from New Haven, was one of the concealed residences of the rogi' cides GofTe and Whalley, in 16G1, when their lives were in jeopardy, and tliey were sought at\er by the English govern- ment. On the declivity of a hill to the north, is a spring be- tween two trees, four miles north-west of Sperry's farm ; this fountain is stoned round, ns left by the regicide judges. When they came to thi«« spring, one of ihem said, *' Would to God we had a hatchet !" and found oae soon after, and cut down boughs for a shelter, and gave ii the name of Hatchet Harbor. On an eminence west of this, by the sido of a ledge of rocks 20 feet high, they also built a side wall or cover, that was found in good crder as late as 1794, and may still be traced, and was a very recluse and secreted Mlneralogical Tour. plnco. From nn cininnncn nonr hy, cnilccj Fort Hill, tliera wns un oxientiivti look-out, nixl m full vintv nf llio h(iil:or, uiid of voioIh puKaitiK in niid out. Thuy liaii oilier tempo- rnry lodiru*, oiiu at PuujeaRMOt, or Dt^iliv ; on« Ht Totoket, or Brnriiord ; nttd un HAyliiiii at jMilior(f, nt Mr. Tomkini', 30 rods rroiii the iMeitting-liouMP, in ii house 20 feet nquaff , of Iwu Htoriec; tlin lowor wub l>uilr with a lione vvnli an a Mtore-room, that nhovu of wood, nnd uwed Hit a S|iinriitiK- roum ; the family, ignorHut of the occupants Ixdow, whoru ihuy residod lor two yunrs without going abroad, so hoi wns the pursuit of ilu-m. In a few milcN llio roud, in its nxcent ttp the valley, in- clinos niuro to tho loft; primilivo ar^ilite ui' ftlute, tortuous, glistening with veinn the purity of manners among the youth of this place, that for 15 years, while he livod with his pa- rents, employed in agriculture, he never heard any of them use a profane expression; he lived and studied at North- ampton with the celebrated Edwards, and was settled at Great Barrington, and aftcrwar's at Newport, R. I. where he died in 1803. Dr. Idaniuel h kins, a poet, was born here in 1750. Near Watertown granite is seen in loose masses, and two miles U^eyond, graphic granite and radiated or plumose mica, both handsome. The feldspar of the granite is white, with a high pearly lustre, end the gray quartz is delicate- ly intermixed in' graphic forms in specimens of extreme delicacy. Watertown is on a hill, and has a smiling appearance with its two neat churches and spires, and white houses ; a lively stream of water, bordered by a chain of rich meadows, adds much to the beauty of the place. This town has been noted for the size of its forest trees. It is said that one of the Arst settlers, having no s'.ielter for the night, peeled off the bark of a tree and laid down on the inside; in the morn- ing, when he awoke, he found the bark rolled up so closely that he was entrapped, and could with difficulty extricate himself. Another owe, by the name of Brown, in his hungry days, sold one of his sons to a neighbor for a barrel of pork, in order to sustain the rest of his family. Some of the most respectable inhabitants of the town are the descendants of this child. John Trumbull the poet, the author of M'Fingal, a sa- lire of some celebrity, was born in this tor;fii in an old-fa- Woodbury Valley Mineralogy. m •hioned double-house, of one chimney, and a low sloping roof to the rear, a iialf mile below the Congregniional Church, on the east side of the Waterbury road, a large elm tree being seen at a distance in the background — now owned by Mr. Pitcher. Woodbury, that we have left a short distance to the south- west, from our road to Watertown, is too interesting a spot to the mineralogist to pass unnoticed when so near at hand, and so easily visited. The village contains two Congregational, one Episcopal, and one Methodist churches, and 70 or 80 houses pleasantly situated in a level valley, near the confluence of a number of small streams that form the Pomparaug. It is surrounded by high hills on every side, forming an amphitheatre*, the valley extends north and south for eight miles. The geolo- gical traveler is instantly struck, on entering this low basin, with its marked difference of features from the country en- closing it. From flat and alluvial plains rise abruptly fronts of dark colored and frowning naked rock, of mural precipices and sharp ragged ridges fringed with wood, with debris reaching, as usual, from the base half or two-thirds up the precipice. The hill, east of the main street, is of considerable eleva- tion, and on its westerly front resembles the east and west rocks near New Haven, on a small scale, and forms a very striking and singular feature to the stranger on his arrival in this lowland prairie or basin of secondary trap, the whin- stone of the Scotch, the grunstein or green-stone of the Germans, on the old red sand-stone of Werner, in the midst of an ocean of gneiss. This remarkable depression and conformation of surface did not escape the notice of Mr M'Lure, in his book on the Geology of the United States. Prehnite is found here in abundance, and of beautiful quality, among the stones louse at the bottom of the precipices, in mamillary andbotryoidal, or clustered grape-like masses, or in almost perfect spheres, or in veins or diverging fibres, of a delicate green color. Agates, tourmalines, and zeolites are also found, and bitu- minous stones, and fibrous limestone, as though soaked in tar, the true asphaltum. Has this, then, ever been a second Sodom and Gomorrah? a sunken spot, a sort of dead sea, or a lake of liquid fire, like the yawning fiery abyss of Hawaii? 42 necticut bordering on the east, and filling the horizon with its grandjur. The falls of the Housatonick, one quarter of a mile above the bridge, where they fall for 60 feet over a limestone ledge, are about 30 rods wide, with a front irregular and broken, giving a variety of beautiful forms. The entire descent in a short space, including other falls and rapids above and be- low the main chute, is 130 feet. The buildings of the Salis- bury Iron Manufacturing Company are adjacent; other iron works, saw-mills, &c. Within five to ten miles are the North-west Lake, the North-east Lake, and Furnace Lake, three large sheets of water secluded among the mountains. In Cornwall, the adjoining town on the south, veins of black lead and beds of porcelain cliiy have been discovered. The village, situated in a deep vale, consists of a neat church and 20 dwellings, painted white, that contrast well with the verdure of the interval, and the lofty mountains that euvi* run them. Following the valley of the Housatonick for 12 miles, bounded by the Green Mountains on the east, and Taugh- kannock on the west, that has a chain of rich land through- out, we arrive at Sheffield, a town built on a single street of four and a half miles on the west of the valley ; it is much in the style of towns on Connecticut River; a long, strag- gling, but pleasant settlement, having for its adornment the everlasting hills and the sublime mountains of which the Taughkannock is decidedly the most imposing feature, as il is 3,000 feet in height nbove tide; from its summit is a grand and eytensive prospect. Saddle Mountain, in Wil- lianistown, at the northwest cornerof Massachusetts, near the Vermont line, rises at the head of the Housatonick Val- ley, 40 miles to the north. The Cafskills, also 40 miles to the west, and the ranges of the Highlands that l>o der on the Hudson below Nevvburgh and Fishkill, bound our view in that part. The Green Mountain in its interminable extent, with Mount Tom rising in a distinct point above, and even the Monadnock in very clear states of the atmosphere, though 70 mibs off to the north easi, can be discerned ; and Scenery near Stockbridge. 499 such are the elements comprised in the distant panorama, And in the nearer smiling rich vales and flourishing eettle- ments around its base, that an ascent of the mountain is eminently gratifying. The Oblong, a strip of land of two miles in width, that begins at the base of this mountain and extends to the Sound, was ceded to New-York by Connecticut in 17 — , in exchange for a square tract of equal size, comprising Greenwich, Stamford, and Norwalk, on Long Island Sound. Great Barrington, six miles above Sheffield, is also built in the style of the former, on a single street, upon the Hou- satonick River side, on a prolonged street, that has a church and a few houses scattered along. Monument Mountain* is next in course, and after passing its ridge, the country on the north is finely developed to the view. The front of the mountain to the east exhibits a pre- cipice 550 feet hisrh, rising close on the margin of the road ; in front is the valley and the river that for several miles has Its course from east to west, and on each side are hills and farm-houses that aid and enrich the viv<^w. North of the town is a hill with a grove on its summit, and the Rattlesnake Mountain completes the hack ground. Stockbridge is one of the pleasantest townships for resi- 4lence in New England ; it abounds in romantic and delight- ful spots, and the pen of one of the most accomplished and popular writers of this country. Miss Sedgwick, who re- sides here, has conferred upon it great celebrity and im- mortality. On the mountains in this neighborhood are evidences of violent disruptions of the rocks in several places where im- mense masses have fallen, and are confusedly spread out in the valley, thus forming recesses where ice is preserved during the heats of summer. In one place a rock, 30 feet long and 120 wide, quitted its bed and descended the moun- tain, and was lodged on two rocks at the base. On the top of one of these, a round stone, 15 inches in diameter, car- ried down at the same time, is the support of the huge rock above. The large rock is called the Table ; several persons under it may remain without difficulty or inconvenience. From West Stockbridge and from Hudson the rail-road • A name derived from a pllo of stones eight feet in diameter, and raised to a cone over an Indian grave. I 1 v 500 Rail'Toad to Hudson. cars leave each end of the lino at 8 o'clock in the morning^^ and at 3 P. M*, and make a trip twice a day, meeting ar Chatham Four Corners; fare $1 50; time two hours; dis- tance 30 miles. Stages and conveyances to Lehanon Springs and the Shnker Village are readily obtained, and to Pitts- field and other places. The rail-road cost only $16,000 per mile, and passes through the Gap at Canaan^ the only prac- ' ticable route. The large quantity of while marble for the Girard College at Philadelphia, and for the Cuslom- house at New-York, is carried from Stockbridge on this road, and also iron ore for the West Point Foundry ; 30,000 passen- gers yearly pass from Boston to Albany, and the VVest, by this route. The scenery at Claverack is very fine. . Rail-road from Norwich to IVorcesier. (58 miles, 102 to Boston. Capital of the Company, $1,500,000.) The rall-rond begins at Chelsea, and crosses the river in a few miles north-east at Jewett City ; from thence it ex- lends up the valley of the Quinebaug to the State of IVlassa- chusetts, and unites at Worcester with the great rail-road from Boston to the Hudson; the fare $5 by this route from New-York to Boston. From New London, that has been described at page 327, our route is continued up the handsome river Thames for 13 miles to Chelsea, or J^orwich City or Landing, 38 miles south-cast of Hartford, 3S south-west of Providence, and 50 north-east of New Haven ; population 3,500. Chelsea, or Norwich City, is at the head of tide at the point of con- fluence of the ^etucket and Yanlic Rivers, (there the Thames,) the most of the city being built on the declivity of a high rocky steep facing the south, the houses rising in terraces, street beyond street, as approached from be- low, in coming up the river, exhibits an interesting, l)eauti- ful, and even romantic effect. The bank of the rivrr. rocky, eJevated, and covered with foliage, forms a delighuul vista that is terminated by the distant city with its white build- ings, in strong contrast to the more sombre hues of the ad- jacent shores of the rivor. The city requires four banks, with an aggre^faie capital of $500,000, and it has a Court-houge, Town-hali, a school for NorwicJi to Worceiter. 501 boys and another for girls, termed high-schools, that are in good repute. At Greenville, one mile east of the landings, is a dam across the Shetucket River that gives water-povirer to move 60,000 spindles, that are contained in live large cotton factories ; here are three very extensive paper-mills, and, in all, nine or ten establishments for manufacturing purposes, and many in other parts of the township, of cotton, paper, and woolens. This may be considered, as to its water privileges, a highly- favoved spot, one of the best in New England, so near lo tide. There are, as places of worship, three for Congre- gationalists, two Methodist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, and one Universalist. The Yantic Falls, near Norwich, are at the head of a cove that sets up one mile from the Thames : above the cove the bed of the river is of solid rock, over Which the entire body of water falls 12 feet on a bed of rocks. The river is here re- stricted into a very narrow channel, that for 15 or 20 rods has fl gradual descent, is crooked and jagged with pointed rocks. The rocks at the foot of the falls are curiously excavated by the attrition of ages. In a few rods the river expands into the calm and placid surface of the basin or cove. The scenery about thes» falls is picturesque and exqufsite, and cannot but please the connoisseur. On an elevation nouh of the settlement is a sacred place in ihe estimation of the rborigines, that formerly, and to this day huger hereabouts, being the burying-place of the Uncas, or the sachems or heads of the Mohegans. The Old Town of ,N*orwich is two miles north-west of the Chelsea Landing, and contains 200 houses, on a number of pleasant, rural streets, around a short distance from the church. The former Court-house here is now U8«*d for a school, the courts being held at Norwich City. The old Court-house, the Union Hotel, and the Congregational Church are in the central part of the town. Back of the f hurch is a rocky eminence, and from it is a fine prospect of the vkinity. On its summit, formerly, was a powder-house, that was set on fire and blew up m the troubles of the revolution. Vyestvillc, or Bean Hill, is a mile distant, and is built on one street ; and on thn Vantic is a woolen factory, and for- merly were iron works where Glijuh Backus made cannon for the Congress, by welding together pieces of iron. 1 1 k< 502 Norwich to Worcetter. Jewett City next occurs on the east bank of the Qttine- baugf ns the stream is called, above the confluence of the Shntucket, a few miles below. It is a flourishing village of 1,000 inhabitants, and has three extensive cotton facturies, and water-power to move 50,OuO spindles, a bank with a ca- pital of S'100,000, five mercantile stores, and a Congrega- tional Church. It is ei,t;ht miles north-east from NoFwich.^ Hopevilleis a little manufacturing place, 2^ mites east of S^ . Jewett City, with two satinet factories and 20 houses, be- sides two cotton factories on the borders of Voluntown. '^ Canterbury Village is next passed, and is pleasantly situa- 4ed on high ground, half a mile west of the Quinebaug, and has a Congregational Church, and some houses that are clustered around a neat-looking green. It is seven miles from Jewett City, f < The Quinebaug, as it passes by this township, is a large streiim, and annually overflows its banks, and fertilizes the alluvial soil on its lx)rders, that comprise an extent of rich meadows that yield prolific crops, and are easily cultivated. Packersville, with its three cotton factories, is on the op- posite of the Quinebaug, in the limits of the township of Plainjield, in which some manufacturing is carried on in the villages of Unionville and Ctnlreville on the Moosup Riv^r, a stream that empties into the Quinebaug'. The ' Plainfitld Academy is a respectable institution that is well supported, and has several competent teachers. It is on a hiil with an extensive prospect, and is doubtless airy and sa- lubrious. The Congregational Church and a few houses make a village. The hills are quite elevated, in the forri) of ridges, north and south. The plain is extensive — soil a bright loam, adapted to grain, and when first settled wat called the land of Egypt, from its fertility and easy cultiva- tion. A large body of Indians formerly inhabited this town^ that were christianized, and always lived in amity with the whites ; there are four places of worship, two for Baptists, one Congregational, and one for Friends. Brooklyn is on the west side of the Quinebauif. The vil- lage contains 60 houses, a Congregational, one Unitarian, and one Baptist Church; the first-mentioned divided in 1817. the Unitarians retaining the old church, and the seceders building, in 1820, the present new handsome edifice. Dr. Whitney was the pastor of the Congregational Church for 63 years, from 1754 to 1822. The court-house, and Ibrse Railroad to Worcester. ^tituncliM, and the bank, are arranged on and around the pub- lic green. The Episcopal Church was the first, and long the vnly one of that sect in this county, and was erected by Mr. !" ^■Wv; nut m~ . *" ■ ir.t-^1 ', 42 from - • ell water- ~A [ t*' licut and large fac- d bobbin!, academy landsome, nk capital d here in h," has a me Canal, id in 1828, at bottom, ml is eulo- ly woollen a wire and centre of a Ttie State m honor to lu laboring reated, and n average. compriscB e by Isaiah in 1820 by relating to ' of intelli- um, seven $900,000 ; oston, 66 41 north- , 71 from 3pring6e1d, [e page 271 51,500,000 1* A. ; ■■ -.1 .. n • •■■/'- I ... si* 'K i,\'' >*-X.-^/'V '».. r •v.? ■■•■?*» 'it.' ,1' : "1 >; V vi';' i -^/«^* ■•vj., ■ ,.,., <^'- ■■^'. ■i'v ..J***' -f " I . ■■»': ..Vif ^ ^^'^: T' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) &?/ 1.0 t I.I Mi I2£ 2.5 2.2 " lis llll|^ 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 < 6" — ► 4 .% /. '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 2:* Vk'SS? MAIW '«^ REET WEBSTER. ;« :. 14580 (716) 872-4503 /4. ■'%' £p.< L<*/ A is v\ J' t '■■.4^ mo- \ IiJevesink J/r7/f. 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