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 23 WEST MAIN STRUT 
 
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 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
V) 
 
 .', 
 
 %'■' 
 
 VOY 
 
/2 ^c^Y^y^/f^/ 
 
 LOG 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE TO BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 IN THE 
 
 " WEST INDIAN 
 
 » » 
 
 1890-91 
 
T 
 
 
 LIVEBPOOL: 
 
 PBINTBD by W. p. PtATT, 82, HOORFISLIM. 
 

 MEMORANDA OF EEFERENCE. 
 
 \ 
 
 8.S. " TTUST INDIAN'' 
 
 Left Liverpool, 1 p.m., Decrhbkr Sri*, 1890. 
 
 Lat. 53° 24' 40" N. Long. 2" 68' 55" W. (St. Paul's). 
 
 DftTS Eftoll 
 
 oat ^■**'' Place at or bound for. Latitude. Longitude. Day'g 
 
 Bun. 
 l...Dec. 4...0flFTu8karRock 62°N. 5°30'w. 190 
 
 2... „ 5...From Tuskar 49° 0' ». 12''40'w. 227 
 
 3... „ 6...FromL'po«l(491m.) 46°50'n. 14°22'w. 200 
 
 4... „ 7.. .Digt. to Madeira 646 miles 43° 32' N. 16°34'w. 204 
 
 5... n 8... „ „ 425 m.... 39° 56' N. 16° 7'w. 221 
 
 «••• .1 »... H „ 215 m.... 36° 23' N. 16°46'w. 210 
 
 7.., „ 10.. .Abreast Madeira 33°15'n. 17°30'w. 198 
 
 8... „ 11.. To Bona Vista 856 m... 29° 56' n. 18°87'w. 207 
 
 9- 1.12... „ „ 642 m... 26° 29' N. 19°42'w. 216 
 
 10 13 423 m... 22° 59' N. 20°49'w. 218 
 
 11... „ 14... „ „ 207 m... 19° 30' N. 21°46'w. 216 
 
 12... „ 15...ToNoronho 1322 m. ... 15°50'n. 22°14'w. 216 
 
 13... „ 16... „ 1115 m. ... 12°33'n. 23°07'w. 208 
 
 14... „ 17... „ 894 m.... 9° 1'n. 24°12'w. 521 
 
 15... „ 18... „ 690 m.... 6°56'n. 25°39'w. 204 
 
 !«•.. .lis 485m.... 3°10'n. 27°40'w. 205 
 
 17... „ 20... To Cape Virgin 3707 m.... 0°12'8. 28°49'w. 216 
 
 Cross Bqa»tor. 
 
 18... „ 21... „ „ 3484 m.... 3°3rs. 30°30'w. 223 
 
 19... „ 22... „ „ 3258 m.... 6° 61' 8. 32° 16' w. 226 
 
 20... „ 23... „ „ 3034ra. ...10°14's. .33°61'w. 224 
 
 21... „ 24... „ „ 2S06m. ... 13°22'8. 35°43'w. 220 
 
 22... „ 26... „ „ 2684 m. ... 16° 40' 8. 37°24'w. 221 
 
 23... „ 26... „ „ 237lm.%.. 19°67's. ■ 88°63'w. 210 
 
 24-. . » 27 2181m. .. 22° 57' a. 41°42'w. 240 
 
 ToUl 
 HileR 
 Run. 
 
 417 
 
 617 
 
 821 
 
 1042 
 
 1252 
 
 1460 
 
 1657 
 
 1873 
 
 2091 
 
 2307 
 
 2523 
 
 2731 
 
 2952 
 
 3166 
 
 3361 
 
 3677 
 
 3800 
 4024 
 4260 
 ^470 
 4691 
 4901 
 6140 
 
utkyH 
 out. 
 
 Date. 
 
 25.. 
 
 Dec.28.. 
 
 26.. 
 
 . „ 29.. 
 
 27.. 
 
 . ,. 30.. 
 
 28.. 
 
 . M 31.. 
 
 29.. 
 
 .Jau. 1.. 
 
 30.. 
 
 . „ 2.. 
 
 31.. 
 
 . » 3.. 
 
 32.. 
 
 . M 4.. 
 
 33.. 
 
 . „ 5.. 
 
 34. 
 
 .. » c. 
 
 35. 
 
 .. „ 7. 
 
 36. 
 
 .. „ 8. 
 
 37.. 
 
 . ., 9.. 
 
 38. 
 
 . „ 10.. 
 
 39 
 
 . „ 11.. 
 
 40.. 
 
 . » 12.. 
 
 41. 
 
 ,. „ 13. 
 
 42. 
 
 . .. H.. 
 
 43 
 
 . M 15. 
 
 44. 
 
 . ,.16.. 
 
 45 
 
 .. „ 17. 
 
 46 
 
 .. „ 18. 
 
 47. 
 
 .. „ 19. 
 
 48. 
 
 .. „ 20. 
 
 49. 
 
 . M 21.. 
 
 60. 
 
 . „ 22.. 
 
 61. 
 
 . „ 23. 
 
 52. 
 
 • „ 24. 
 
 63. 
 
 .. „ 25. 
 
 54. 
 
 . „ 20.. 
 
 55. 
 
 . „ 27.. 
 
 56. 
 
 . » 28. 
 
 Iv. 
 
 Each 
 
 rioco at or bound for. Latitudu. Longitudu. Day's 
 
 Bun. 
 
 ToCapo Virgin 1951 in. ... — — 180 
 
 , „ „ 1792m. ... 27"60'h. 45''34'w. 179 
 
 1534ni. ... 30''39'h. 48'00'w. 208 
 
 . „ „ 1328 m. ... 33°33's. 50° 48' w. 226 
 
 „ „ 1082 m. ... 36° 36' a. 53° 29' w. 226 
 
 „ „ 872 m. ... 39° 40*3. 55°40'w. 211 
 
 . „ „ 755m. ... 42° O's. 58°19'w. 188 
 
 559 m. ... 44° 06' 8. 61°44'w. 396 
 
 „ „ 391m. ... 46°ll's. 64°12'w. 108 
 
 . „ „ 194 m. ... 49° 28' 8. 65°43'w. 214 
 
 .!S traits of Magellan — — 194 
 
 .Punta Arenas (Sandy I'oint) 
 
 .StraiiB of Magellan* 
 
 .In Pacific, to Lota 
 
 .'roLota711m 48°25'8. 76°31'w. V04 
 
 „ 507 m 201 
 
 . ., 330m 42°05'8. 76°18'w. 177 
 
 „ 132 m 198 
 
 .Anchored, Coronal Bay... 
 
 .Coronel 
 
 • »i "•• 
 
 »> 
 
 . >» 
 
 »> 
 
 .Corunel and at Seat 
 
 . At Sea for Eaqnimalt 34°ll's. 74°44'w. 211 
 
 30° 57' 8. 76°57'w. 225 
 
 „ 27° 44' 8. 79°03'w. 222 
 
 „ 24° 35' 8. 8ril'w. 230 
 
 . „ 21°29's. 83°39'w. 228 
 
 . „ 18° 15' a. 85°37'w. 225 
 
 15° 34' 8. 88°03'w. 228 
 
 ^Cape Virgin to Cape Pillar is 820 milou. 
 tLeft Coronol at 2.45 p.m. 
 
 Totol 
 Miles 
 Bun. 
 
 5320 
 
 5500 
 
 5708 
 
 5934 
 
 6160 
 
 6371 
 
 6559 
 
 6755 
 
 6923 
 
 7137 
 
 7331 
 
 7535 
 7736 
 7913 
 8111 
 
 8322 
 8547 
 8769 
 8999 
 9227 
 9452 
 9678 
 
Each Total 
 
 ^^y Date. Place at or bound for. Latitude. Longitude. Day'H MIIoh 
 
 out. "^" Bun. Run. 
 
 67...Jaii.29...AtScaforE8quiinalt ... 12''33'8. 90°21'w. 227 9906 
 
 58 30 „ 9° 52' 8. 92°39'w. 211 10116 
 
 69 31... „ „ VOi's. 95°02'w. 219 10335 
 
 60...Frb. 1... „ , 4°01'8. 97°21'w. 231 10566 
 
 61 2... „ r08'8. 99''30'w. 218 10784 
 
 62... „ 3... „ „ r 58' N. 101" 24' w. 224 11008 
 
 63... „ 4... „ „ 5' or N. 102° 58' w. 206 11214 
 
 64... „ 5... „ „ 8° 06' N. 104° 35' w. 208 11422 
 
 65... „ 6 10" 53' N. 106° 48' w. 212 11634 
 
 66... „ 7 „ 13° 37' N. 108° 40' w. 197 11831 
 
 67... „ 8... „ „ 16° 51' N. 109° 48' w. 205 12.^)84 
 
 68... J 9... „ „ 19° 46' N. 111° 38' w. 204 12708 
 
 69... „ 10... „ „ 22° 35' N. 113° 10' W. 190 12838 
 
 70... „ 11... „ , 25° 25' N. 115° 30' w. 207 13105 
 
 71... 1,12 28° 31' N. 117° 20' w. 217 13322 
 
 72... ,,13... „ „ 31° 21' N. 119° 5' w. 194 13516 
 
 73... „ 14... „ 34° 08' N. 121° 28' w. 206 13722 
 
 74... ',',15... „ , 37° 30' N. 122° 58' w. 215 13937 
 
 75... „ 16... „ 40°28'N. 124°36'w. *196 14133 
 
 76... ',,17... „ „ 43° 12' N. 124° 53' w. 180 14313 
 
 77... „ 18... „ „ 46° 39' N. 124° 32' w. 189 tH502 
 
 78... „ 19...Anch<)iud in Ksciuinialt Harbour, 9.20 a.m. 
 
 ' +00 the rCUi, at noon (being sliort or coal), reduced our speed to 7 knota. 
 +To Victoria, 163 luilos. 
 
 LiVEKPOOL TO ViCTOUiA, 14,665 miles in 78 days. 
 
 Average run (full steaming days) 188-4 miles— not reckoning 8 hours 
 40 minutes difference in time. Average knots per hour, 7-8. 
 
' 
 
 vL 
 
 S.8. "AURANIA," 
 
 NEW YOEK TO LIVEBPOOL, 
 
 March 28tii, 1891, 
 
 Lkkt Wharf, Nkw York, 7.30 a.m. 
 
 March 29 .. 
 30 .. 
 
 Lat. 40° 43' N. Long. 65° 34' w. 
 
 „ 41" N. „ er^si'w. 
 
 Run 380 Miles.* 
 „ 348 „ 
 
 '*' From Sandy Hook. 
 
[littt I.lveipool I p.in. Deo. Srd. IWO] 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 (ArrlVfxl at RwiiiiiimU 9.S0 ii.m. Feb. ItHb. 1W1.] 
 
 Stkam riiOM LIVERPOOL to 
 VICTORIA AND ESQUIMALT, ,M., 
 
 (14,(160 Mile* 111 78 (iKyk.) 
 
 VANCOUVER CITY, 
 
 AND 
 
 NEW WESTMINSTER. 
 
 THE FINK NRW HTEABIER 
 
 ''IV EST INDIAN;' 
 
 Capt. S. F. Scott, 
 
 1,806 Tons ; 200 Horse Power, 
 
 Has a considerable portion of her cargo engaged, and ii 
 appointed to sail from Liverpool on or about 
 
 SATURDAY, the ISth NOVEMBER, 1890. 
 
 Has good accommodation for a limited number of 
 Saloon Passengers. \Four Vi)eni.'\ 
 
 For further particulars and rates of freight or passage 
 (cargo being taken by Hpecial agreement (mly), apply to 
 Messrs. G. C. Dobell & Co., or to the Loading Brokers, 
 
 BAKER BROTHERS & C J., Ltd., 
 Chapel Walks, Liverpool, 
 And Water Street, Vancouver City. 
 Liverpool, Oct. 14, 1890. 
 
LOG 
 
 or A 
 
 VOYAGE TO BRITISH COLUMBIA, &C. 
 
 8.8. "WEST INDIAN" 
 
 Left Liverpool 1 p.m. 
 
 Wednesdat, December, 3rd, 1890. 
 
 Foggy and calm. Two other passengers besides our- 
 selves. Oapt. Scott extremely kind and attentive. Off 
 Holyhead 10 p.m. ; rolling heavily. 
 
 Thubsdat, Dec. 4th. 
 
 Off Tuskar, 8.20. a.m. ; fresh n. breeze ; big sea; decks 
 awash amidships. Very well to-day ; huge appetite. Ship 
 more shipshape to-day; only doing 9 knots. We have 
 three cabins, one on deck for my smoke room, one below 
 to sleep in, and one for Winnie's clothes. 
 
 Fbiday, Deo. 5th. 
 
 Bun from Tuscar 250 miles. Fine four-masted ship full 
 sail ; sick passengers turned out. 
 
 Saturday, Deo. 6th. 
 
 Eolling fearfully, very heavy swell, but fine. Kun 
 200 miles ; fresh wind, b.s.e. at 10 p.m. 
 
 Sunday, Deo. 7th. 
 
 Awfully rough last night; ship pitching and rolling 
 fearfully; lightning. Oaptain up all night. Wind gone 
 
Off Madeira. 
 
 down this morning, but tremendous swell on. Are going 
 via Madeira and the Canaries. 
 
 Monday, Deo. 8th. 
 
 Glorious day ; fresh breeze right aft. First tub this 
 morning. To Madeira 425 miles. 
 
 Tuesday Deo. 9th. 
 
 Perfectly lovely day ; quite calm, with cool head wind. 
 After breakfast a most extraordinary thing happened : a 
 seagull flew on to the quarter deck and we picked it up, 
 •when it was violently sick. After staying on deck for a 
 few minutes it hopped over the side and flew away. 215 
 miles to Madeira. 
 
 Wednesday, Dec. 10th. 
 
 Sighted Madeira after breakfast, and were abreast at 
 noon ; distance 1 8 miles. Lovely day. 
 splendid. Winnie very seedy. 
 
 Thursday, Dec. 11th. 
 
 Lovely day and quite calm ; very warm, 
 better : she nearly fainted after breakfast, 
 awnings to-day. Off Palma all afternoon. 
 Teneriffe. 
 
 Friday, Dec. 12th. 
 
 Winnie better. Fairly in the n.e. Trades. Pit out 
 fishing lines for Bonitos ; raining a little. In the after- 
 noon passed a Pacific s.s. homeward bound : we signalled 
 our name and port, and she will report us on her arrival. 
 
 Saturday, Deo. 13th. 
 
 Lovely day. Fresh n.e. trade ; in the tropics to-day. 
 Saw a small barque bound same way. 
 
 Sunday, Deo. 14th. 
 
 Lovely day. 207 m. from Bona Vista. Cape Verde 
 Island at noon. 
 
 Monday, Deo. 15th. 
 
 Capt. Scott knocked down two firemen this morning. 
 
 The island looked 
 
 Winnie no 
 
 Putting up 
 
 Did not see 
 
Crossing the Line, 
 
 one after the other. Lots of flying fish about ; one came 
 on deck, and is before me now. Abreast Bona Vista at 
 noon. Left all the Islands on starboard hand. Winnie 
 bad headache this morning. Botten rat in one of our 
 three state rooms. Paid wine bill to date (16s.). 
 
 Tuesday, Deo. 16th. 
 
 Fried flying fish for breakfast : they came on board last 
 night. Very hot to-day, but lovely breeze. Two of the 
 firemen are ill. Bun 208^ miles. 
 
 Wednesday, Dec. 17th. 
 
 More flying fish for breakfast. Strong breeze and 1 ig 
 sea in afternoon. 
 
 Thursday, Deo. 18th. 
 
 Tumbled about a good deal last night ; heavy rain. 
 Passed a full-rigged four-master to-day under big spread 
 of canvas. Fresh breeze all day. Sighted another ship 
 this evening. Changed to deck cabin to-day. 
 
 Friday, Dec. 19th. 
 
 As we cross the Equator to-morrow morning, it was de- 
 cided that Neptune should visit the ship to-night. So 
 about 9 p.m., Neptune and his wife (the Steward and Fred, 
 the Captain's son) were brought aft by the crew on their 
 carriage and were introduced to those who had not crossed 
 the Line before. These people had to be either shaved or 
 stand drinks. Forester and young Tommy chose the 
 latter, but the four or five of the crew, with the exception 
 of the carpenter, who stood, who had not crossed, were 
 first of all lathered witli some filthy mixture, then shaved, 
 and on being asked their names and answering, the filthy 
 shaving brush was shoved down their throats, and were 
 finally pulled over backwards and thoroughly soused in a 
 tub of water. It was great fun. All the crew were stood 
 grog and there was dancing, etc. 
 
 Saturday, Deo. 20th. 
 
 Crossed the Line at 1 1 a.m. Captain put a hair over 
 glass of telescope and made Tommy look through it. 
 
4 
 
 Off Parahiba. 
 
 Upon being asked if he saw the Line, he said ''Yes!" and 
 got quite excited. He has entered it iu his log and firmly 
 believed he saw it. 
 
 Sunday, Deo. 21st. 
 
 Fine breeze again to-day. We had lunch on the quarter 
 deck ; their is a table on purpose. We passed no fewer 
 than three barques to-day, all going same way as ourselves. 
 I was rather surprised at our passing them at all, as there 
 has been a spanking breeze all day and they should have 
 overtaken us. They were all three quite closo to. 
 
 Monday, Deo. 22nd. 
 
 Lovely day, as usual ; strong s.e. trade. Passed two 
 ships close to, both homeward bound. One of the pigs 
 went mad to-day and j umped overboard. The big deer- 
 hound (consigned to A. G. Thynne, probably some relation 
 of Lord Bath) and the donkeys are getting on famously. 
 Passed within about 60 miles, Noronho Island, yesterday. 
 It is used as a Brazilian convict settlement. Off Parahiba 
 at noon to-day. We are now using the coasting charts. 
 Winnie did a lot of washing to-day and got roasted. Saw 
 a large Albatross to-day for the first time. 
 
 Tuesday, Deo. 23rd. 
 
 Heavy rain this morning, but it has turned out a lovely 
 day as usual. Passed a large three-masted schooner st 
 breakfast time. As there are no bitters to be ha,vi. v/u 
 board, I use Winnie's medicine, viz., quinine and iron. 
 
 Wednesday, Dec. 24th. 
 
 Lovely day. Saw a steamer in the distance this morning. 
 Three geese, four fowls, and two turkeys were killed this 
 toorning for to-morrow's festivities. After dinner, all the 
 crew off duty came aft, and we had a very pleasant evening. 
 Lots of very good songs by the sailors Forester plaved 
 the banjo and sang very well. Had some dancing. ap- 
 tain Scott stood liquor to everybody, including passengers 
 We had heaps of whiskey and the proceedings did not 
 close till after one o'clock. The men gave three cheers for 
 
 \^ 
 
Off Cape FriOy Brazil. 
 
 Mrs. Scott, and afterwards tliree for Winnie. Gave dirty 
 little Tom Wainwright, whiskey and port mixed. 
 
 Christma-s Day — THunsDAy, Deo. 25th. 
 
 Quite the hottest day yet; 89 degrees in the shade. Light 
 ■wind ; dead aft ; must be awfully hot down the stokehole. 
 Saw some dolphins chasing some flying flsh. I forgot to 
 mention that after lunch yesterday, we ranged up within 
 hailing distance of a barque, bound same way as ourselves. 
 After some signalling we got alongside her and commenced 
 conversation, fcshe was a remarkably pretty' little ship. 
 The " Mary Adelaide " of Liverpool, bound from Antwerp 
 to Valparaiso. Her skipper got awfully excited at us 
 speaking him, and wished us a merry Xmas and a good 
 voyage, over and over again. She was 38 days out (very 
 good) and was 640 tons. 
 
 Friday, Dec. 26th. 
 
 Saw a steamer this morning. Fiiie strong breeze and a 
 little cooler. Steward got an awful blowing up from the 
 captain for stealing liquor. He has. had all control of it 
 taken from him. 
 
 Saturday, Dec. 27th. 
 
 Very strong breeze ; luckily behind us. Loom of the land 
 all morning ; and all noon we woro abreast Cape Frio ; 
 distant 22 miles. Our first glimpse of South America. 
 We got a good view in spite of the distance. 
 
 CAPE "FRIO," BRAZIL. 
 Ship's Position 522° 57' W. ; 41° 42'. Distant 22 miles. 
 
 We are very lucky to have hit it off so well ; the chrono- 
 meter is exactly right. After breakfast we put out a long 
 fishing line, and it had not been out five minutes before 
 yfQ hooked a fine dolphin, which we got aboard all right. 
 
r 
 
 River Plate. 
 
 I 
 
 Seven pounds in weight and most beautifully coloured. 
 We had it for dinner to-night and it was excellent and a 
 great treat. We hooked another and larger one immedi- 
 ately afterwards, but lost it as we were hauling it up the 
 side. Shall be abreast of *' Rio " to-night. 
 
 Sunday, Dec. 28th. 
 
 Very heavy head sea, which greatly stopped us; run 
 only 1 80 miles ; every sign of a gale to-night, but fortu- 
 nately we have escaped it. Much cooler. Passed two 
 steamers to-night, one of them a very large one. 
 
 Monday, Deo. 29th. 
 
 Lovely day, with nice cool breeze. Still tremendously 
 heavy head swell, which shows no sign of going down. 
 Bun 179 miles. Passed a sailing ship who signalled 
 for longitude, which we gave her. This morning we 
 got a large piece of. tin, and after shaping it somewhat 
 like a fish, fastened it on to the hook on the fishing line 
 and then called Tom, who rushed up and frantically hauled 
 at it till he nearly got it aboard ; he was properly spoofed. 
 
 Tuesday, Dec. 30th. 
 
 Blew pretty fresh last night but fortunat '- aft. This 
 morning beautifully fine. Passed a brigantine close haul- 
 ed. *' Ludo " is in great request, we play nearly every 
 night. Bun 210 miles. Distant from land, 110 miles. 
 
 Wednesday, Dec. Slst. • 
 
 Lovely day; wind still aft. A very pretty brigantino 
 passed close across our bows this morning, hailing from 
 *' Bio." She was going along splendidly. Captain stood 
 liquor again to-night. We saw the New Year in, and at 
 midnight they blew the whistle and rang all the bells. 
 Saw a large whale and a school of porpoises. Perfectly 
 calm New Year. 
 
 Thursday, January Ist, 1891. 
 
 Saw a shark this morning. At noon we were right in 
 the middle of the estuary of the Biver Plate. Very heavy 
 rain this morning, but turned out very fine and quite calm. 
 
 M 
 
 
 
At Sea for Cape Virgin. 
 
 Saw a huge albatross this morning. The water is quite 
 discoloured to day, and is brackish, although we are one 
 or two hundred miles from the river, proper. Phosphorus 
 simply wonderful to-night (11 p.m.). Quite cold ; glorious 
 night ! 
 
 Friday, Jan. 2nd. 
 
 Ship was stopped this morning for an hour to adjust com- 
 passes, by which we lost about 1 2 miles. Saw a shoal of 
 block fish sporting near to the ship. They are a species 
 of whale and about four times the size of porpoises. It is 
 much cooler to day ; the water this morning bitterly cold. 
 872 miles from Cape Virgin. Sea still discoloured. Saw 
 a very large whale close to ship. Came on to blow with 
 very thick fog ; whistle still going when we turned in. 
 
 Satubday, Jan. 3rd. 
 
 Fog continued till 1 a.m. to-day. Fine morning with 
 wind off the land. Eun only 189 J miles; strong current 
 against us. This afternoon the engines were stopped for 
 an hour to pack cylinders, during which time we tried 
 fishing, as, of course, we lay motionless, but without success. 
 Very calm this evening. I won two games " Ludo " which 
 is still very much in request. Two-thirds of the potatoes 
 on board have suddenly gone quite rotten. 
 
 Stjnday, Jan. 4th. 
 
 Pheugh ! Isn't it blowing ; wind dead ahead and seas 
 like mountains. It has been the same all day, but to-night 
 has moderated a good deal. She has proved herself a 
 splendid sea boat, though, of course, she has taken dozens 
 of green seas over forward; the third mate and three sailors 
 when making fast the headsails this morning, were buried 
 in a green sea. They must have had six feet of water 
 over them. The third mate bruised his face rather badly. 
 Charlie and Fred were washed out of one of the dunnekins 
 on the foredeck. Winnie lay in bed nearly all day, but 
 got up for dinner. Saw a waterspout in the distance this 
 evening. Fine sunset. Barometer down a little ; ship 
 rolling rather heavily ; heavy swell from the southard ; 
 not dark till nearly 10 p.m. 
 
B 
 
 Cape Virgin. 
 
 
 J 
 
 Monday, Jan. 5tli. 
 
 The gale quite spent itself last night and we had a quiet 
 night, though I believe she plunged a good deal. Lovely 
 morning but very cold ; the water in my tub was bitter. 
 Loom of the land all morning. Bun only 168 miles. Did 
 not sight land after all. Mrs. Scott rather seedy to-day ; 
 she has not appeared. Looks like wind or rain to-night ; 
 a most angry looking sunset ; most wonderful colouring. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 6th. 
 
 (Thirty-four days out.) 
 
 Fortunately the angry sky last night did not turn into 
 
 anything, at anyrate for us, and this morning is beauti- 
 
 -fuUy fine. The water is covered with tide rips and is a 
 
 very light colour, showing a shoal. The remaining pig 
 
 was very ill this'*momiug, presumably from cold ; so it 
 
 was promptly killed, to " save its life." I hope we shall 
 
 not all be poisoned. Only 194 miles from Cape Virgin at 
 
 noon Passed close to a large number of huge albatrosses 
 
 floating on the water. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 7th. 
 The Captain called me at 8 a.m. to see the land and 
 Cape Virgin in the distance. It is very low land and most 
 inhospitable looking. We gave Cape Virgin a wide berth 
 and fairly entered the Straits at one o'clock. The morn- 
 ing was beautifully fine, but the glass very low indeed 
 (29* 2"), and about 2 p.m. a heavy black sky appeared 
 to windward. At 3 p.m. the storm burst in a perfect 
 hurricane of wind and rain, but little sea. Very thick ; 
 are going dead slow as we cannot see the land. It cleared 
 up about six o'clock and we proceeded to the first narrows. 
 Just at the commencement of the narrows we saw a little 
 settlement of houses, name not given on chart, a fine cut- 
 ter lying at anchor oflF it. Fresh roast pork for dinner, 
 very good. I carved, as none of the officers could come 
 down. The land is awfully desolate. These narrows are 
 less than two miles broad. Very low land. 10-30 p.m. — 
 Most lovely night but very cold. The settlement we passed 
 was " Wood's Farm ; " he is English and has a large sheep 
 iarm there. 
 
Sandy Point, 
 
 9 
 
 Thursday, Jan. 8th« 
 
 The Captain kept on all night and did not let go his 
 anchor till we were off Sandy Point at 7-30 a.m. When I 
 went on deck I was surprised to find this such a large 
 place. The red-roofed wooden houses look quite pictur- 
 esque with the dark hills behind to set them off. The 
 population is 2,000, of which some 400 are English. 
 Tliere were two Chilian men-of-war in the harbour, one 
 of them the Admirante Lynehy just arrived from Birken- 
 head. Brand new Torpedo boat. She left Birkenhead a 
 month before we did, and as she only arrived the day be- 
 fore yesterday, has had a pretty long passage. There was 
 also one German steamer, and a perfect little schooner 
 yacht belonging to the British Consul here, who is a Ger- 
 man and keeps a store ; a very desent fellow. This place 
 is gradually improving and has been quitd^ quiet since the 
 mutiny of the convicts in 1877. We lay a lOng way from 
 the landing, nearly two miles, and fished for gulls till 
 luuch time; after which we all went ashore in the port 
 cutter, the starboard one leaked so badly that we could not 
 go in it, and the one we went in was so bad that we had 
 to bale out continually to keep the water down. When 
 we got to the rickety tumble down pier, we were met by 
 Mr. Braun, a German butcher, anxious to supply us with 
 meat, and from whom eventually the Captain bought a 
 supply. He acted as our guide all day. Our first visit 
 was to the Captain of the Port, who asked us in and re- 
 galed us with cider. We then went to the British ConsuPs 
 store and Post-office, where I posted two letters, one to 
 Phatty and one to Morton. Eventually we ail went to 
 Lehi's, a Swedish carpenter's house, to tea. He has a 
 very nice little place, and an English cockney wife. Con- 
 servatory, three horses, cow, etc. etc. There was a well 
 educated Englishman living with him, named Lewis, who 
 has been out here and in the Falklands for years, money 
 lending ; seventy years old ; he was delighted to see us. 
 After this, we went again to Braun's shop and bought 
 Huanaco* Skins. I got a beauty for 30s. They are 
 brought in periodically by the Indians, and are much 
 
 "Fronouuoed Wanaok«. 
 
 ^:^ 
 
10 
 
 Straits oj Magellan. 
 
 prized, as only the young calves of a week or ten days old 
 are killed ; after this age the fur becomes woolly. Sandy 
 Point is a very tumble down place, with only one decently 
 paved street; an air of neglect everywhere. The climate, 
 however, is very good, and the winter months the finest ; 
 never much snow and never extremly cold. There is good 
 sport to be had within one day inland — geese, ducks, snipe, 
 and small bears. Did not see any Indians. Enjoyed one day 
 ashore verj' much and returned to the ship for a late din- 
 ner at 9-30 p.m. Captain Scott sold the big lifeboat he 
 had brought out, to the carpenter, for £24. She is a 
 splendid boat : it was a great job getting her into the water. 
 Two more screw steamers came in this evening from E. and 
 W., the one from W. a Frenchman, making a hideous 
 noise with his syren whistle. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 9th. 
 
 Fresh beef for breakfast ; delicious. Snow on the 
 mountains. Left 2-30 a.m. Cape Forward, most southern 
 point of South America, 9 a.m. It is a fine abrupt cliff 
 clothed with wood. Passed wreck of Pacific Mail boat, 
 " Cordittera," wrecked about 18 months ago. She is 
 broken right in two, but is visible above water. Most 
 magnificent scenery all the way. Two Indian canoes 
 came off from an island at noon, in spite of the sea, to buy 
 and sell beaver skins ; but the Captain did not stop as he 
 is anxious to get out to-night. I threw one of them a tin 
 with tobacco in it. 4-30 : are just passing a magnificent 
 glacier which reaches down to the water's edge. Magnifi- 
 cent scenery ; wonderful peaks and crags. Another canoe 
 came off and one of the biscuits I threw hit one of the 
 men ; he roared with laughter and delight. The Indians 
 have no clothing beyond a very thin shirt ; how they live 
 in this cold I don't know. Expect to bo clear of the Straits 
 about 1 a.m. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 10th. 
 
 The Captain called me at. 12- 15 a.m. to see Cape Pillar, 
 which we were just abreast. It was still twilight and I 
 could make it out quite distinctly'. I soon went to sleep 
 again, and when I awoke, it was to find ourselves in the 
 
At Sea for Lota, 
 
 II 
 
 
 teeth of a Pacific " Norther," which veered round to the 
 N.N.w. and has continued there all day. By Jove ! How 
 it ha8 been blowing, and no signs of abating now (10 p.m.) 
 But we must expect this weather I.are. Numbers of alba- 
 trosses have been following us all day ; most magnificent 
 ones ; now and then hovering right over the quarter-deck, 
 not fifteen feet above our heads. I must try and shoot 
 some to-morrow. Beef at Sandy Point was only 2id. a lb., 
 and the sheep the Captain bought only 16/, and it is a huge 
 one. Winnie rather sick and Forester very bad. No 
 sights taken ; too thick ; Lota about 1,200 miles distant 
 at noon. Disf mce from land about 60 miles. Fresh gale, 
 N.w. to N.N.w. ; heavy beam sea. Fore trysail, fore stay- 
 sail, and fore topmast staysail. Ship behaving beautifully. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 1 1th. 
 
 Very strong head wind, at times amounting to gale, 
 with very bad confused sea ; ship rolling about as badly 
 as she possibly can. I shot four magnificent albatrosses 
 to day, but only managed to pick up one, a beauty meas- 
 uring 10 feet from tip to tip ; the other three fell into the 
 water and were of course lost. The fourth I shot standing 
 under the bridge and he fell stone dead on to the deck ; 
 I'm going to try and get the skeleton of his head. There 
 have been hundreds about all day ; we tried fishing for 
 them but we were going too fast. One of the birds I shot 
 was a brown one, and I think, if anything, larger than the 
 one I bagged. The latter is hanging up over the after 
 hatch to give the bill a chance of drying. By Jove ! it is 
 a tremendous size ! Run to-day 204 miles. Splendid roast 
 mutton for dinner. Forester still very sick. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 12th. 
 
 Heavy gale from the north all day, with most confused 
 sea, about as bad as any I have ever seen. Ship rolling 
 and plunging most uncomfortably. Have fled to our 
 maindeck cabin to sleep to-night. Wind changed a little 
 to the westward at sundown and moderated a little. One 
 of the quartermasters (Costello) has skinned my albatross, 
 but has broken one of the pinions in doing so, a great pity, 
 I valued these more than the skin, for pipe stems. Distance 
 
12 
 
 At Sea for Lota» 
 
 ¥ 
 
 i 
 
 from Sandy Point to Lota, 1,162 miles. Wind moderated 
 somewhat to-night ; fore and aft sails set. Very heavy sea. 
 
 TXTESDAY, l\v. 13th. 
 
 Bun 117 m.; to Lota 330 m. Still heavy sea but wind 
 has much moderated. Strong breeze. At last we are ap- 
 proaching civilization once more ; there is a lighthouse on 
 our starboard bow though distant about 60 m. Forester 
 appeared this morning looking very shaky. Hope to get 
 to Lota Thursday morning at daybreak. I shot two more 
 huge albatrosses this afternoon, brown breasts, but failed 
 to pick either of them up. The first fell just about a yard 
 beyond the tafiPrail and the second hit the awning rail in 
 falling. I thought it was sure to fall on board, but the 
 ship happened to give a heavy roll in the wrong direction, 
 so I missed it. They were both beauties ; great pity. 
 The sailors eat the one I bagged for their dinner to-da}'. 
 Blowing very hard again to-night. Began " Ludo " again 
 to-night. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 14th 
 
 Still blowing awfully hard, with tremendous seas and 
 thick weather. However it has cleared up this afternoon, 
 and this evening is beautifully fine. New moon, but a tre- 
 mendous westerly swell. By Jove ! we are rolling, it is 
 hard work to keep our feet. Just as we sat down to lunch 
 the second officer came down and announced land on 
 the weather bow. This turned out to be the Island of 
 Mocha, and when the weather lifted shortly afterwards we 
 found ourselves between this Island and the mainland ; both 
 highlands ; the former a fine island, eight miles long by 
 three broad ; uninhabited, but having fine water and trees. 
 It turned out a beautiful afternoon and we kept land in 
 sight till dark. Only 60 miles from Lota at 9 p.m. Saw 
 several small coasters tossing about, and some tremendous 
 breakers, three miles off. Well, we have had a time of 
 it I Nothing but the worst of weather, ever since leaving 
 Cape Pillar ; hope we dhan't see any more of it. 
 
 Thubsdat, Jan. 15th. 
 Anchored here at 8-15 this morning, after such a rolling 
 
 
Coronel Bay, 
 
 n 
 
 ahout. Winnie could not sleep at all. We are at Coronel, 
 not Lota. There is a train from hero to Conception, a 
 large town ; distant 15 miles. After we had anchored, the 
 health officer came off, and after a lot of fuss, would not 
 let us land, as the Captain's papers were not quite correct. 
 There are several steamers here, two of them the Qulf 
 Line from Liverpool, sister ships. Very waiin here to-day. 
 We are quite close to the shore. The scenery is not up to 
 much. We are busy painting the hull of the ship a bright 
 red. As usual in most foreign ports, there were five 
 British steamers to three others (the latter of different 
 nationalities) here to-day. Although the health officer 
 who was here this morning, promised to return at eleven, 
 he has not been yet (10-30), so we have not been able to 
 land, any of us! The Captain is very annoyed at it. A 
 fine Chilian man-of-war has been cruising about all day 
 and to-night i as anchored close astern of us; probably 
 watching us, as there are so many British ships in the 
 harbour. Lovely night. The Bail way Station is just op- 
 posite the ship. Lota is just round the next point. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 16th. 
 
 Quite an eventful day. There were no signs of the Cap- 
 tain of the Port coming off, but shortly after breakfast the 
 Captain of the Gulf Liner lying nearest to us, sent off a 
 boat with an officer to tell us that there was a serious 
 kickup at Valparaiso — Navy ver%u* Army— and that no 
 one was allowed to land at all or buy anything. They — 
 the Gulf Liners — had been hero eight days waiting for 
 coal ; but though there is plenty of it close to, they dare 
 not send it off for fear the man-of-war, which is constantly 
 popping in and out, were to catch them ; in which case, she 
 would capture the lighters and enlist the men. They did 
 beg^n coaling this afternoon, when all of a sudden round 
 the point comes the man-of-war full steam, and it was 
 ludicrous to see the lighters hurriedly leave the ship and 
 scull for the shore. The Captain of the Port had just put 
 off to board the Pacific Mail, but he hurried back all 
 haste. When the " Galicia," the Pacific Mail boat, an- 
 chored, she fired a gun to announce the arrival of the mails. 
 
t 
 
 14 
 
 CoroneL 
 
 ! ! 
 
 No 80oner had she done so, when the man-of-war who was 
 j ust behind her, fired a blank shot to prohibit her lauding 
 the mails. As soon as she had anchored she sent a boat 
 to the Pacific Mail boat and took off the Coronel Mails on 
 board. The man-of -fight left the harbour at sundown. 
 Three more ships came in to-day, all for coal ; so the little 
 bay is quite full of big ships. The Captain had an awful 
 row with the sailors to-night and smashed one of them up. 
 "We are now painted a bright red all over. There have 
 been a lot of people shot in Valparaiso. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 17th. 
 
 No man-of-war this morning, so coaling has been going 
 on briskly all day, though they have not yet come to us. 
 After lunch we all went ashore in one of the ship's boats ; 
 there was a high surf running on the beach. "We fii'st 
 went to Mr. Taylor's house, where we left Frida and Mrs. 
 Scott. "We then went to the British Consul, whose office 
 was a miserable place in a coalyard. He was a very jovial 
 old German, and after palaver he took us to see a steam 
 launch he is building. "We then went to a Pub, and For- 
 ester and I had a game of Anierican Billiards, which I 
 won, and thence to Mr. Taylor's, where we had drinks, and 
 then on board. Horse hire is very cheap here, three dol- 
 lars per diam, equal to six shillings. They offered us a 
 huge fish quite 40 lbs. in weight for two dollars. "We 
 bought a lot of fruit, etc. The Captain of the Port sent 
 a manifesto to-night warning us against the dangers of the 
 Revolution, and told us to be ready to proceed to sea at a 
 moment's notice ; but how we are to do so without coal ? 
 This is not much of a place and the natives are very dirty. 
 Provisions are very expensive. Lota is 20 miles and Con- 
 ception one hour by train. Fresh meat for dinner of 
 which I partook two lbs. Cannot wire our arrival to Eng- 
 land as all telegraphic communication is shut off. A great 
 nuisance ! Lovely day. The Pacific Mail boat " Galicia " 
 will be very late getting to Liverpool, she is being delayed 
 here. Captain and Mrs. Scott are dining on board the 
 " Gulf of Guinea " to-night ; her Captain is a very decent 
 fellow, Livingstone by name. 
 
CoroneL 
 
 15 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 18th. 
 
 They commonced coaling the sliip this morning at 6 a.m., 
 ])ut at 10 a.m. the Captain of the I jrt camo rowing franti- 
 cally round all tho ships, shouting that the Ahneralda 
 was coming It was funny to see the lighter men jump 
 into their ligliters and pull with all their might and 
 main for the shore. Sure enough directly afterwards the 
 man-of-war came steaming in full speed round tlie Point 
 and anchored a ship's length from us. All was quiet for 
 some time, till suddenly we heard firing on shore ; the two 
 rival parties liad met at last and the rebellion Imd com- 
 menced. In almost less than no time, the JUnmeralda had 
 run out her guns and began bombarding tho town, at tho 
 same time firing her quick firing gun from the foretop. 
 She kicked up a great noise, and quickly all sound of 
 firing on shore ceased. The Esmeralda then hove up her 
 anchor and moved a little further away from iis (she was 
 unpleasantly close) and began firing at the Railway Bridge 
 to try and destroy it. This she failed to do, though she 
 used her heavy guns. The Fort on shore resjiondod in a 
 feeble way and sent two balls under her stern, but did not 
 hit her. Shortly after this she got under way and steamed 
 to Lota, which she attacked ; we could hear tho firing very 
 distinctly as the place is only seven miles off. When she 
 had finished there she steamed out to sea and had not re- 
 turned at 10-30 p.m., so has probably gone to Valparaiso. 
 All is quiet now, but of course we can't go ashore All tho 
 natives bolted to the hills — we could see them running. 
 When we shall get our coal is a problem. Pacific Mail 
 
 boat still here. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 19th. 
 
 Coaling commenced early, but about 10. a.m. the Esmer- 
 alda steamed round the point and off scooted the barges, 
 '"jne man-of-war did not anchor, however, but steamed on 
 towards Lota and shortly afterwards went out to sea. We 
 did not go ashore to-day. Captain Livingstone, of the s.s. 
 "Gulf of Guinea," and a Mr. Cathcart, passenger on her, 
 came off to us to dinner, and we passed a very jolly evening, 
 dancing, etc. Calvert played the . violin well. Captain 
 
k 
 
 i6 
 
 Leaving Coronet. 
 
 Livingstone, who is an extremely nice fellow, is only my 
 age (27), rather young I should think to command such a 
 large ship. Ho has asked us to breakfast to-morrow. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 20th. 
 
 The gig of tho " Gulf of Guinea " came for us at 8-30 
 and off we all went with the exception of Tommy Wain- 
 wright, who wasn't asked She is a very fine cargo boat 
 with splendid saloon accommodation, electric light, etc. ; 
 she is only two years old. "We sat down to a rare good 
 breakfast, heaps of all sorts of things ; chops, beefstakes, 
 grilled fowl and ham, etc., etc. Afterwards Capt. Living- 
 stone showed us over the ship, and then we all went ashore, 
 calling at our ship, en route, to pick up Tommy. We 
 loafed away the day, strolling about, etc., and at three had 
 ham and eggs at the only decent hotel in the town, and 
 that is not saying much. Shortly afterwards Frida and I 
 went off to the ship, but the others did not and we hud to 
 wait for our dinner till 8-15 p.m., and then Frida and I 
 had it by ourselves. The others arrived about 9-30 and 
 had been in a nice fix; they could not get a boat for love or 
 money, as no communication is allowed with tho shore 
 after sundown. However, at last the Captain of the Port 
 lent his boat, though he would not send any men, and we 
 had to tow his boat back. 
 
 Wednesday Jan. 21st. 
 As I was pumping some water into the bath this morning, 
 to my surprise I pumped up a young octopus. We kept 
 him in the bath all day. It was most curious to watch hira. 
 When he was touched, he would eject an inky substance 
 that entirely hid him. I threw him overboard this even- 
 ing. We have shipped four extra hands here, two firemen 
 and two sailors. At last we are off ; at 2-45 we weighed 
 anchor and proceeded to sea. The Captain went ashore 
 after breakfast and brought off two more hands and pro- 
 visions, etc., and at 2-45 p.m., we weighed anchor and 
 slowly steamed out of Coronel harbour. The '' Isis " had 
 left before lunch, so we were the last ship in, with tho ex- 
 ception of the Pacific Mail boat which arrived last night. 
 Fine strong s.w. wind. We soon began to roll merrily. 
 
Chased by the " Esmerilda" 
 
 17 
 
 When about 12 miles out, we sighted a steamer bearing 
 down on us. When within hailing distance she enquired 
 through a speaking trumpet where we were bound for 
 and we replied British Columbia and dipping our ensign, 
 proceeded. This small steamer was one that the Esmeralda 
 had seized, and which we eventually found out, had turned 
 into her tender. We could see the Esineralda some miles 
 off, lying under the lee of Santa Maria Island with steam 
 up. What was our surprise shortly afterwards to see her 
 under weigh and steering for us, instead of going to meet 
 her tender. Conjecture was rife as to whether she was 
 chasing us or not ; however, our doubts were soon dis- 
 pelled for she came nearer and nearer, though we were 
 steaming 11 knots. When she was about a mile astern 
 of us she hoisted a signal which the chief officer mistook 
 for ** heavy weather expected ;" it rep.Uy meant ** heave to 
 at once." Through this mistake on we gaily steamed, un- 
 fortunately without our ensign flying. Suddenly we saw 
 a cloud of smoke issue from the man-of-war's side, and 
 bang ! went a gun ordering us to stop. The Captain, 
 however, being asleep in his room on we steamed and be- 
 gan to hoist our sails when bang ! went another gun and 
 then luckily for us (for the ship was close up to us and 
 would certainly have fired ball into us if we hadn't stopped, 
 as the third gun means fight) the chief telegraphed '* stop 
 her" and we lay rolling about and awaiting events. We 
 hoisted our answering signal and the Esmeralda came slowly 
 past us, crossed our bows, and lay to, to leeward. We 
 fully expected to be ordered back to Santa Maria Island 
 to discharge our coal and sell provisions ; fortunately 
 this was not the case as the captain had left his bond with 
 the shore authorities for 9,000 dollars not to have any 
 dealings with the fleet. In a few minutes a boat was put 
 off, in spite of the heavy sea, from the Esmeralda and 
 shortly a smart boat manned by an officer and four men 
 came under our lee and watching his oppertunity the offi- 
 cer climbed up the rope ladder on to our deck, and shook 
 hands with the Captain ; they then both went into the lat- 
 ter'ft (cabin. The officer had his sword and a revolver 
 strapped to his belt. Now, as it happened, I was the 
 cause of all this. The commander of the Esmeralda had 
 
1 8 Chased by the ^^ Esmeralda!' 
 
 heard, through spies on shore, that there was a British 
 officer on board the " West Indian," and as two British 
 officers had deserted the Chilian fleet and had joined the 
 President, known also to be in, or in the neighbourhood 
 of Lota, it was supposed that one of them at least was 
 trying to escape the country on board our ship. Therefore 
 she had been lying under Santa Maria for two days wait- 
 ing to intercept us as we went out. Captain Scott ex- 
 planed to the officer who boarded us that he had an officer 
 on board, namely, myself, and satisfied him that he had 
 not got the rebels ; upon which the young gentleman, who 
 by the bye, spoke most excellent English , after accepting 
 some cigars, departed, and proceeded to his own ship. I 
 must mention tha* while he was on board us, the Esmeralda 
 kept cruising rouud and round us and at one time came so 
 close that one could almost have jumped from one vessel 
 to the other. In fact she was so dangerously close that it 
 seemed when she crossed our bows that we must inevitably 
 have collided had not Mr. Lock (the chief officer) sprung 
 to the telegraph and ordered full speed astern ; even then 
 our bow only just cleared his stern. Fancy ! especially as 
 there was such a high sea running. We then proceeded 
 on our course. IYlq Mmeraldalookedi magnificient plung- 
 ing and rolling about. She must steam quite 1 8 knots to 
 have overtaken us so easily. We were all glad to get 
 away from this civil war ridden country. The naval officer 
 told us that the President always was behaving atrociously 
 and had proclaimed himself Dictator, though half the army 
 had deserted to the fleet. They expect the finale to come 
 off soon, but unless affairs settle themselves very promptly, 
 the Fleet are going to bombard all the principle seaports, 
 beginning at Iquique. where the mobilisation will take 
 place. Big sea to-night ; ship rolling heavily ; shipping 
 water fore and aft. 
 
 From Ooronel Bay on a sunshiny day 
 
 We star*9d for British Columbia ; 
 
 When we got outside, to our groat surprise, 
 
 We were chased by the Esmeralda. 
 
 Now our boilers were clear, of their ashes rid. 
 And eleven knots was what we did, 
 And we flew along, with the pressure of steam. 
 But the man-of-wrT went at least eighteen. 
 
 
 1 
 
Robinson Crusoe Island, 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 Thus our efforts were fruitless to run away, 
 k nd we thought we should have a tribute to p^^y — 
 Or at least to be forced some days to delay ; 
 So the ladies, below, we persuaded to go, as in a few minutes 
 the worst we should know. 
 
 For a white cloud of smoke from her side did come, 
 And we heard the report of a heavy, big, gun. 
 Then bold Mr. Lock to the telegraph sprang, 
 " Stand by !" " Ease her !" " Stop her !" he rang. 
 
 Though the sea was running high a small boat we did espy, 
 From the Esmeralda to our leeside slowly rowing ; 
 In a short time she had come, and on the bottom rung 
 Of our ladder stepped the officer commanding. 
 
 Our fears quite soon abated, when the officer had stated 
 
 That two rebels they did anxiously await ; 
 
 And that spies on shore had told them that on board the ship 
 
 West Indian, 
 Were two officers attempting to escape. 
 
 - So greatly disappointed at not finding those he wanted 
 And accepting from our Captain some cheroots, 
 He from our side departed with "gopd-byes" from ai» our party. 
 And our Captain went below to play his flute. 
 
 We then on our course proceeded, quite convinced that if we 
 
 needed. 
 Could have blown the Esmeralda to small bits ; 
 For our solitary caunon, lying on its rusty waggon, 
 Might have done terrific damage— if we'd hit. 
 
 Thuesday, Jan. 22nd. 
 Fine, strong g.-w. wind, right aft. Ship rolling very 
 heavily ; some difficulty in getting our meals. We had 
 averaged 11*4 knots an hour since we left Lota. Our run 
 in a straight line from Lota was 211 miles, but this did not 
 include our detour, or our detention, by the Esmeralda. 
 Lovely afternoon. Frida very sick last night. We were 
 abreast Island Juan Fernandez at noon, alias Robinson 
 Crusoe Island, where Alex. Selkirk really had his adven- 
 tures ; sixty miles distant. Considering the warm weather 
 and the distance from the Horn, quite a number of Alba- 
 trosses were following the ship to-day. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 23rd. 
 Not nearly so much wind to-day, though there is still a 
 heavy westerly swell. There are still some albatrosses 
 
I 
 
 20 
 
 St. Ambrose and St. Felix. 
 
 following us. The Mother Carey's chickens are very in- 
 teresting to watch; skimming about in the wrake of the 
 ship. Every other second they touch the water with one 
 foot or the other, but rarely settle down in it ; they are 
 not much larger than swallows. Looks like rain this 
 evening. Some one stole the bacon for the cabin breakfast 
 out of the galley this morning, so the Captain, as punish- 
 ment, has stopped all fresh meat for the men ; rather 
 rough on them, but all the better for us, as there is only a 
 limited supply. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 24th. 
 
 Fine calm morning, but with heavy rain clouds in the 
 distance. Sailors still setting up rigging. Winnie rather 
 seedy this morning. When we set our course on leaving 
 Coronel, it was to have run right between two small islands, 
 St. Felix and St. Ambrose, and sure enough this afternoon, 
 St. Ambrose hove in sight a little on our starboard bow ; 
 
 ST. 
 
 AMBROSE. 
 
 awfully good navigation as they are little more than rocks. 
 There is no water on St. Feiix. They are sandy and 
 covered with sea birds ; myriads of their eggs are to be 
 found in their season. It is full moon to-night and a 
 glorious evening; wind right astern; the ship almost on an 
 even keel. After leaving these islands, the first land wo 
 shall see will bo Southern California. It is about 5,650 
 
 ST. FELIX. 
 
 miles from Lota to Victoria. Passed between St. Ambrose 
 and St. Felix at 1 1 p.m. Awfully desolate places. St. 
 
 
 i 
 
 iM 
 
Ai Sea. 
 
 2i 
 
 
 Ambrose is 1,700 feot high. Tliey are only 1 1 miles apart, 
 Got very good view of them. There is a pond of water on 
 the summit of St. Ambrose, according to the Pacific Di- 
 rectory, but none on St. Felix. Saw a sailing ship this 
 evening bound west ; she was bearing right down on us, 
 but it became too dark to see her, when she was close to. 
 They are few and far between about here. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 25th. 
 
 Glorious morning, no sea ; just arrived in the s.e. trades. 
 About eleven o'clock we saw a booby bird flying round the 
 ship, and in a few minutes it alighted on the quarter-deck 
 awning, we could easily have caught it, if we had left it 
 alone for a few minutes, as almost directly they aliglit they 
 go to sleep. As it was T stood a couple of yards from it 
 and we stared steadily at each other for some moments. 
 They bungled so in trying to catch it, that it just managed 
 to escape. Mrs. Scott very seedy to-day ; caught a bad 
 chill. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 26th. 
 
 Another fine day. A smart shower came on in the after- 
 noon. The Captain gave me a lesson in navigation this 
 afternoon and I'm getting on famously. They are all busy 
 painting up the ship ; she is beginning to look much 
 smarter. The fresh meat went bad yesterday, and it was 
 worse to-night. Winnie did a lot of washing to-day and 
 of course overheated herself. Wo were 4,741 miles from 
 Cape Flatbry at noon to day. Very warm below. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 27th. 
 
 Showery all day, with very strong s.e. trade ; quite un- 
 usual weather for these parts. Wo have all been making 
 poetry, and some that Forester read out had some allusion 
 to Tommy. At this he took offence and at lunch time he 
 came out with some of his own. We fairly roared at it. 
 There was not the slightest attempt at rhyme, but it was 
 nothing but a string of insulting abuse at Forester ; I was 
 quite surprised that he took it so well ; I felt like kicking 
 the little brute as it was. Eather stormy night but fortu- 
 nately the wind is behind us, so it is all the better. 
 
 f 
 
22 
 
 Ai Si 
 
 ec. 
 
 m 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 28th. 
 
 Fine bright morning. Have been working at naviga- 
 tion all day and am getting on famously. Saw some flying 
 fish to-day ; hope some will come on board for to-morrow's 
 breakfast. Saw two bosun birds flying round the ship ; 
 pure white all over, even their entire wings. 
 
 Thursday, Jan. 29th. 
 
 Lovely day ; very warm. Frida very seedy this morning 
 but pulled herself together after lunch and is all right this 
 evening. We were about abreast of Callao at lunch time. 
 Run 227 miles. Tommy Wainwright has been awfully sat 
 upon to-day, by the Captain and chief ofiicer ; serve him 
 right. We keep getting covered with paint ; it is every- 
 where ; not only on deck, but in the cabins. Still strong 
 s.E. trade. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 30th. 
 
 Again a most beautiful day. Winnie much better. 
 Eun only 211 miles; bad coal. Frightfully hot. Saw 
 some bosun birds. Thermometer got up to 87 degrees in 
 the shade. " Ludo " still in great request. They have 
 been condensing water for the last few days, and the con- 
 sequence is that it is difficult to get any cold water to 
 drink ; awfully hard on the firemen. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 3 1st. 
 
 Awfully hot. The ship looks ever so much better now 
 they have painted her up. They have not been able to 
 touch the hull yet as it has been so rough. Run 220 miles. 
 Two bosun birds have been about the ship all afternoon. 
 Ought to cross the equator on Monday. One of the fire- 
 men is laid up. 
 
 Sunday, February 1st. 
 
 Heavy rain early this morning. Ham and haddocks for 
 breakfast and Chicago corned beef for lunch. These :'3ms 
 represent our greatest luxuries in the way of food, and I 
 can tell you, we do them good justice. The s.E. trade is 
 still with us and is helping us along well. Our run to-day 
 
"^ 
 
 Off the Galapajoo Islands. 
 
 23 
 
 was 230 miles, very good journey for us. Roast fowls 
 and green peas for dinner. Sky very much overcast to- 
 night. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 2nd. 
 
 (Crossed Equator.) 
 
 Frightfully hot to-day ; the little there is is right aft, 
 and the consequence is that the smoke goes straight up in 
 the air and the sparks straight down, so that the bridge 
 awning and the boat covers are full of holes, burnt right 
 through them. We are off the Galapajoo Islands to-day, 
 distant about 500 miles. Tleaps of flying fish about. As 
 I was walking aft from the bridge this afternoon I noticed 
 something white falling through the smoke on to the deck. 
 On going up to it I found it was a. beautiful bo'sun bird, 
 which had evidently been half suffocated by the smoke. 
 We picked him up and carefully examined him. They 
 are most beautifully marked with very large eyes, and a 
 most curious thin long red feather sticking out a long way 
 beyond its tail. They can't stand, and their wet feet are 
 soft and quite black. We threw him up in the air eventu- 
 ally and he flew away. Will cross the Equator about 7 
 p.m. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 3rd. 
 
 In the doldrums to-day, and no mistake. Perfectly calm 
 sea, with not a ripple on it. About 10 a.m. the 3rd officer 
 reported two turtles close to the ship forward; from this 
 time till 2 p.m. we passed hundreds of them, some brushing 
 against the ship's sides, others some distance off, and all 
 of them fast asleep. We tried several ways to catch them 
 but failed to do so, though we hauled some up in the 
 hammock clean out of the water, unfortunately the ham- 
 mock capsized, and it fell back again. Several more we 
 nearly but not quite caught, though we let down the gang- 
 way ladder, to catch them as they came past. Dozens of 
 them we ran down or pushed against. They were all so 
 fast asleep that they only woke up when the ship touched 
 them. Such beauties they were : it was so tantalizing to 
 watch them. Mrs. Scott tried to hook one, and the heavy 
 hook fell right on its back but did not wake it ; another 
 
24 
 
 Off Gallezo Island. 
 
 got foul of the screw, and it was funny to see it puffing 
 and blowing afterwards. Very heavy rain clouds all round 
 us all day; a breeze sprang up after dinner. Just after 
 lunch we got an elaborate apparatus ready to catch some of 
 the turtles, and felt quite sure of doing so, as the Captain 
 had slowed down the ship for the purpose. Of course 
 they all disappeared ! 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 4th. 
 
 In the N.E. trades this morning ; blowing fresh. Rained 
 heavily last night : it came through into our cabin. Saw 
 a. small waterspout yesterday evening about six miles off. 
 Wo passed an island yesterday, and perhaps its vicinity 
 accounted for the numbers of turtle we saw. This island 
 is marked on my chart as "Gallezo Island;" but according 
 to the N. Pacific Directory it is thus described : — 
 
 JoUa^o Island (Whabe's Report) Lat. 1° 48' N. Long. 104° 8' W. 
 
 Otherwise unknown. 
 
 SO it is probably mythical. "Duncan Island" (also marked 
 on my chart), we should also have passed close to to-day ; 
 we did not, however, sight any land. According to above 
 Directory, it is thus described : — 
 
 Duncan Island (Whabe's Report) 6° N. 106° W. Otherxoise unknown. 
 
 SO this, also is probably mythical. It is much too rough to 
 hope to see any turtles to-day, much less catch them. Run 
 only 286 miles. Capt. Scott has got his violin in order : 
 he plays it very well. Heavy lightning to-night and 
 stormy sunset ; very strong breeze. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 5th. 
 
 Vory strong trades to-day ; also strong current against 
 us; run only 208 miles. Done some more navigation to-day, 
 and learnt how to use the sextant, but shall not keep it up, 
 as the small figures, in reading off, hurt my eyes so. I am 
 afraid they are getting weak, for I can't go on reading for 
 any length of time. We shall be in the latitude of 
 Clipperton Island to-night, but, thank goodness, are giving 
 it a wide berth. It is a most dangerous spot, and is thus 
 described in Directory :-^ 
 
1 
 I 
 
 Clipperton Island, 
 
 25 
 
 Clipperton Island: Lat. 10° 17' N. (10° 13' 24"). Long. 109° 10' W. 
 (109° 7' 30"). A very dangerous low lagoon inland ; destitute of 
 trees ; with a hipfh rock on its southern edge — which may bo 
 miBtaken for a sail. 
 
 The wliole island is, with the exception of the solitary rock, 
 which is 50 feet hipfh, only about 6 feet above the level of 
 the sea ; it is 7 miles long by 1 broad, and consists of a 
 fine white sand ; altogether, a most beastly sort of place. 
 
 Friday, Fed. 6th. 
 
 Saw a solitary turtle close to the ship, just before dinner 
 last night. A very heavy rain storm came over us just 
 after dinner — a regular deluge. A fine bright moring. 
 Heaps of booby birds about ; one alighted on deck which 
 the carpenter caught and brought aft : it was a young one 
 and awfully savage ; we threw it overboard after we had 
 had a good look at it. Nice breeze all day, and a little 
 cooler. Run 212 m. They are painting the mast and 
 spars to-day. Three boobies perched themselves on the 
 ship forward this evening, one in the foretop and two on 
 the anchor davits. They allowed us to go quite close to 
 them, and did not attempt to fly away. The sailors caught 
 one, and after fastening a piece of wood to it threw it over- 
 board — rather cruel of them. There are probably a lot of 
 them roosting on the ship to-night; they well deserve their 
 name. 
 
 Saturday, Feb, 7th. 
 
 Fine morning, and a little cooler. The chief ofiS.cer shot 
 the booby bird that perched itself in the foretop, and 
 served it right, for it had made a great mess of the fore- 
 stay sail. There have been a lot about to-day : one 
 perched on the awning chain and would not go away ; it 
 allowed us to touch it, they are very ugly and vicious ; this 
 particular one has a big wound in its stomach ; the wretched 
 thing is still perched on the awning chair (9 p.m.) and is 
 fast asleep, with its long, savage looking beak under its 
 wing. I am sure we could easily tame it if we tried. It 
 is really absurd. One of the saiurs painting the flagpole 
 aft this afternoon painted its feet and chest yellow without 
 getting hold of it, and it never attempted to move, but 
 kept quietly looking round about. We saw a most magni- 
 
a6 
 
 St Benedido Island. 
 
 ficent falling star to-night, it was most wonderful ; it 
 seemed to fall quite close to us, and looked like a huge 
 rocket, bursting at intervals. TIjo captain says that in all 
 his experience he never saw anything to equal it Saw a 
 large curious black and white bird, somewhat like a hawk, 
 with a long forked tail. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 8th. 
 
 Beautiful day ; a little cooler and quite calm. Very 
 strong current against us. Run only 205 miles. Distant 
 from Socorro Island at noon 119 miles. Topsy (the cat) 
 scratched my neck open this morning, in jumping on to 
 my shoulder. Heavy swell in spite of the calm ; ship 
 pitching a great deal. No sight of land at sundown, 
 though the island is visible 60 miles off in clear weather, 
 land on it being 1,200 feet high. Three booby birds on 
 deck for'ard this evening. We have only sighted one ship 
 since leaving Lota. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 9th. 
 
 At seven o'clock I went on deck and found that we had 
 safely passed close to Socorro Island during the night : it 
 was in sight right astern of us — a large high volcanic 
 island. We were then (7 a.m.) just abreast St. Benedicto 
 Island, distant about 10 miles — a base looking place. Al- 
 though there are several more islands on either side of 
 us, they are too far off to be seen, and the next land we 
 shall sight will probably be Guadaloupe Island, about 
 half-way up the peninsular of lowta, California. Run to- 
 day only 204 miles. Strong current still against us. Lovely 
 day, and much cooler. Beastly poor feeding lately; worse 
 than ever to-day. Tremendously heavy swell against us to 
 night, making the ship pitch a great deal ; not much wind. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 10th. 
 
 No wind to-day, but still the very heavy swell. In spite 
 of the calm weather our run was only 190 miles — quite 
 upset the Captain. Frida did a lot of washing. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 11th. 
 Head wind to-day ; very fine and much cooler. 
 
 Passed 
 
Guadaloupe Island. 2^ 
 
 about 30 miles to the eastward of the Alijos rocks tliis 
 morning ; tlioy are most daiipforous to navigation ; the 
 highest one is 106 feet high. Should reach Guadaloupe 
 to-morrow afternoon, and be abreast San Francisco in 3^ 
 days. About 8 days more to Victoria. Quite cold to-night 
 and very dark. No improvement in the grub. Carter, 
 the second officer, has drawn a very pretty trophy of arms, 
 to decorate Forester's book, which lie has entitled " Ocean 
 Jottings," and is going to publish on our arrival. The 
 ship looks ever so much better now she is painted up. 
 
 GUADALOUPE TSLAND. 
 Latitude 118° 45' W. Longitude 29° 20' N. 
 
 Fkiday, Feb. 13th. 
 
 Tremendously long rollers from the north to-day, stop- 
 ping us a little. Our run was only 195 miles in spite of the 
 dead calm. Beautiful day. The water this morning was 
 bitterly cold. I read Forester's book through this morning, 
 it is fairly well written and rather interesting. The 
 wretched Tommy is ridiculed throughout. Expect to sight 
 Conception Point to-morrow. Saw a large shoal of small 
 whales (Grampus) quite close to the ship this morning. 
 No wind to-night but tremendous rollers. Played the 
 
 k 
 
 TnuRSDAY, Feb. 12tli. 
 
 Fine day and v>ery calm. Sighted Guadaloupe Island 
 about 11 a.m. It is a fine Island, 15 miles long and 5 
 broad ; I believe uninhabited. A fine range of hills in 
 the interior, the highest estimated to be over 3,000 feet. if 
 
 Few supplies can be obtained on it, except water and wood. 
 There are a few goats. We saw a small schooner cruising 
 close to the Island, so perhaps there are a few people on 
 it ; this is the second sail we have sighted since leaving 
 Coronel. Plenty of fine trees on the island. 
 
 ii| 
 
I 
 
 28 
 
 OJ^ San Francisco. 
 
 usual *' Ludo " after dinner, but gut so sick of it that I 
 soon stopped. 
 
 Satuhday, Feb. 14th. 
 
 Passed some dangerous shoals last night and this morn- 
 ing sighted the Island St. Miguel lying off the coast of S. 
 California. Later on we sighted the mainland, and the 
 loom of the land has been visible all day. Wind has 
 changed to s.w. and there is every indication of a strong 
 wind. Very heavy rollers continue and the ship is pitching 
 about a good deal. Sighted a ship in the distance after 
 lunch. 9-30 p.m. — Very dirty night, raining hard and 
 blowing pretty fresh ; luckily right aft. Hope this won't 
 continue. Finished six letters. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 15th. 
 
 Awfully dirty last night, heavy gale from the s.w. which 
 changed at 8 a.m. to-day to the n.w. The ship tumbled 
 about unmercifully all niglit, and Winnie did not sleep at 
 all. Been very thick all day, with very heavy sea. High 
 sea all iaj, strong head wind. Abreast San Francisco at 
 noon*, only 5 miles distant from the Island Lighthouse. 
 Passed close under the stern of a smart brigantine, bow- 
 ling merrily along with reefed mainsail. She was run- 
 ning into San Francisco and had probably come from 
 Honolulu with sugar. Carried away several small things 
 to-day, including the supporting pole of the awning ridge. 
 The barometer registered 29.3° this afternoon ; awfully 
 low, the weather must have been terrible a bit further out. 
 Sighted Point Arena light about 11-30 p.m., the weather 
 having cleared up a good deal, though a very strong wind. 
 12, midnight. — Barometer rising a little. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 16th. 
 
 Off Cape Mendocino at breakfast time. This is the most 
 western point in the United States and is fine high land, 
 with the top covered with snow. Cape Blanco, 145 miles 
 more to north, is 11 miles more west than Mendocino 
 (Longitude 124° 33' W.). The coast line all along 
 
 *Farralone, distant from San FranciBCO (Golden Gate) 23j^ miles. 
 
 
California, 
 
 29 
 
 lioio is yory liigh and bold. We liavo boen witliin 10 
 miles of it all night, and have passed several towns ; also 
 several steamers, one or two quite close to. A very strong 
 wind last night, but the Captain bore up under the land, 
 so that we were pretty well sheltered. Heavy rain squalls 
 this morning and the wind shifting about all over the com- 
 pass. Hills are 3.000 feet high. Tremendous big trees 
 everywhere. Off Eureka at 2 p.m. Heaps of driftwood 
 floating about. We are getting short of coal so have been 
 obliged to reduce our speed to 8^ knots. Constantly 
 passing vessels, mostly steamers, one of which is gradually 
 overhauling us. 
 
 CAPE ''MENDOCINOr CALIFORNIA. 
 124° 22' W. 40° 25' N. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 17th. 
 
 Squally night, but not very much sea. Sighted Cape 
 Blanco (or Orford) at 4 a.m. This is the most western 
 Point of the U. S. A. Heavy hail storm just before and 
 another just after breakfast. Captain Avas up nearly all 
 night. Passed two schooners (one quite close to, a fine 
 little vessel probably a sealer) slopperingup to windward, 
 against the strong s.e. wind. 9. p.m. Has been squally 
 all day and very cold. It clciaed up just before dinner 
 and was bright and fine for several hours. Land in sight 
 at intervals all day, though quite 30 miles off. Expect to 
 be up to Cape Flattery about 4 a.m. on Thursday morning. 
 It is a great nuisance running short of coal and so having 
 to slow down. The engines also want screwing up very 
 badly ; however they have done splendidly so far, fancy 
 76 days out and only two stoppages. Can't say I like this 
 cold weather and stormy sea, after the lovely weather we 
 have lately been through. 
 
 ! 
 
: 
 
 ili 
 
 36 
 
 Arrived at Esquimalt, 
 
 the s.w. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 18th. 
 
 Awfully cold to-day and blowing very hard indeed from 
 Passed the mouth of the Columbia River at 
 breakfast time. A small schooner was beating down to 
 windward at this time and was going along beautifully. 
 Winnie hard at work packing up. 2 p.m. Gale increasing, 
 very heavy squalls all day, with high sea. I don't think 
 it was anything like as bad as this off Patagonia. How- 
 ever, six hours more and we shall be in smooth water. 
 Beastly cold ; heavy falls of sleet. Sighted Cape Flattery 
 light at 10 p.m. and at 12 p.m. had rounded it, when a 
 heavy snow storm came on and we had to • steam out to 
 sea again. When this had blown over we again entered 
 the Fuca Straits and at 1 a.m. I turned in. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 19th. 
 
 We let go our anchor in Esquimalt Harbour at 9-30 a.m. 
 Very glad to be in port once more. This is a very fine 
 land-locked narbour and is the headquarters of the North 
 Pacific Fleet, though there is only one man-of-war in at 
 present, the Melpomene. The Captain went ashore after 
 breakfast, promising to send word immediately he had 
 cleared the ship, to send permission for the passengers to 
 go ashore. This he did not do till he came aboard at 8 
 p.m., so that we spent the whole day promenading the 
 quarter-deck and admiring the scenery, which really is 
 very fine. He no doubt met a heap of old friends on shore 
 and quite forgot us passengers ; beastly nuisance — especi- 
 ally for me, for C. Pearse's Teamster came off in a canoe 
 at noon, and I had to send the former a note telling him 
 I could not call on him, as we had not permission to land. 
 Fresh beef for dinner ; a great treat ; the first we have 
 had since leaving Coronel. Fine night. Snow been falling 
 at intervals all day. 
 
 Friday, F^.b. 20tn. 
 
 Landed at 9 a.m. after a hurried breakfast and caught 
 the 9-30 Electric tram to Victoria ; it took 20 minutes to 
 do the four miles, very speedy, but very jolty. Got letters 
 and money at the Post Office and returned to ship at noon, 
 
Victoria. 
 
 31 
 
 just in time to catch Charlie Pearso whcm I had appointed 
 to meet there at noon. He was very pleased to see me and 
 kindly asked us to stay with him and at anyrate to lunch 
 at his place to-morrow. He has got a farm here and deals 
 in horses. Returned with Winnie at 3-30 to Victoria, leav- 
 ing our heavy baggage on hoard. We have put up at the 
 ** Oriental" Hotel and have got a nice sitting room and 
 bedroom with food and attendance for $2 each per diem. 
 This seems a very busy city and is lit with gas and electric 
 light, Bipping good dinner here. There is a theatre and 
 some- thing on there to-night, but we didn't go. Nearly 
 all the houses are built of wood. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 21st. 
 
 Went to Esquimalt in the morning with Frida intending 
 to lunch with Pearso. but the weather was so bad that we 
 did not venture, fio returned to Victoria, and in the after- 
 noon were introduced to several people, including the 
 Mayor, Mr. Grant, the Captain of the Port, Captain Clark 
 a retired naval chap, also an army man, Major Wilson, 
 late of the 42nd, and a host of others. We went down to 
 the ship for dinner and returned to the hotel at 10 p.m. 
 Very bad. Posted the letters home from the hotel. The 
 West Indian is going to Nanaimo on Tuesday to discharge 
 rails and coal. Went over the Islander after dinner with 
 "Williams, she is a splendidly got up steamer — oil paintings 
 everywhere — but looks frightfully top heavy. Williams 
 brought her out from England. I wonder they ever got 
 here safely. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 22nd. 
 
 Looked up Arnold Barham this morning ; he is a very 
 nice f Oilow, and has a charming little house on Menzies- 
 street, in the suburbs. His wife also is very nice, and they 
 have two children, I think one of them a boy about throe 
 year? old. Ho was very glad to see us (Forester went 
 with me), and we had a long talk over old times about J. 
 H. J. Arthur and the Lurline. Met the Mayor after lunch, 
 and have made an appointment to go io the City Hall at 
 11 o'clock to-morrow to meet him. He has put iis up for 
 
 t fir. 
 
I 
 
 32 
 
 Esqtiimalt, 
 
 the Club. Captain and Mrs. Scott and Locke dined with 
 us here this evening ; awful bad dinner. It has been 
 bitterly cold aad snowing hard all day. The electric cars 
 have stopped running. Had a long talk with Major 
 Wilson to-night about things in ge/jornl Frida not well 
 to-night. 
 
 Monday, Feb, 2^ : d. 
 
 Arnold Barham did not tarn up here till 12 o'clock, so 
 that I just missed hira as I had to go to see the Mayor at 
 11-30. He was very civil and has put me up at the Club 
 for a week. We went to the Club with the Sanitary En- 
 gineer and found it a very nice place ; large billiard and 
 dining rooms. This place is full of English people. En- 
 gaged rooms at 63, Superior-street and we go there to- 
 morrow. Went down to the ship later on. Carter, the 
 2nd officer, was lying drunk in the hold, and while we were 
 on board Lock wont down to try and get him up to bed ; 
 upon which they quarrelled and Lock gave him ^i black 
 eye. The Captain came on the scene and tl-^u. i?^as old 
 Harry to pay ; he knocked Carter all over j ^/lace and 
 eventually put him in irons and locked him j . '.iv. room.- 
 Williams the 3rd officer h ^t the ship this mor, > .71 ^'j and 
 started for San Francisco in the City of Puella. The 
 gambling in the bar of this hotel is tremendous. To-niglit 
 it was crowded and they were playing '* Vingt'in '* for $20 
 stakes. Still freezing to-night though it has been thawing 
 all day. There is quite a larg China town here ; all the 
 domestic servant? are Chinese, 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 24th. 
 
 After breakfast, Arnold Barham turned \iv,, t nd. intro- 
 duced me to a friend, who kindly offered to put me up for 
 the club, but as I am already a member, I did not need 
 his services. Bariian h-ivs iiiv'U'^. us to his place on Friday 
 night. Went to Esqidmalt, iiLt ..• lunch, and took Bebbing- 
 ton's boat ; rowed over to Sutley Park in 35 minutes, 
 only to find that Pearse had gone to Victoria, so after having 
 a look round we returned, made some purchases, and got 
 to our lodgings at 6 p.m. This is a fairly comfortable 
 room, 3J dollars per week, but no attendance is included, 
 

 Victoria. 
 
 ?>^ 
 
 so Frida will have to cook breakfast, wash up, make the 
 bed, light the fire, and in fact do everything. Dined at 
 the "Poodle Dog," a very fair restaurant, much better tlian 
 the hotel. It is a lovely row from Hutley Park to Es- 
 quimalt. After crossing the harbour you enter a lagoon 
 swarming with ducks of all sorts. Beautiful evergreen 
 trees on the banks and in fact charming scenery. Kather 
 a cold row back. Carter, the 2nd mate, has been sacked 
 from the West Indian as he got drunk again to-day. Ho 
 was locked up last night in jail, and was liberated tliis 
 morning on paying 5 dollars They have got a new 2nd 
 mate on board. The West Indian is not sailing for Nanaimo 
 till to-morrov . 
 
 Wednesday, Peb. 25th 
 Frida cooked the breakfast and we had finished by ten 
 o'clock, she had made the fire, cooked breakfast, swept the 
 room and everything by the time I was dressed. She 
 enjoys this pi'^nicing immensely. Went down to the ship 
 and got our deck cliairs, returning by the electric railway. 
 Wont to town afterwards and met the Captain and 
 Forester, also Pearse and a friend. Pearse said he would 
 come to the rooms at 4 p.m , but as it was raining hard at 
 that time, he did not turn up. Went up to Victoria at 6 
 p.m. and bought two of Rider Haggard's books, *' The 
 World's Choice" and "Beatrice," one 40 cents and the 
 other 30 cents, dirt cheap as compared wiih our English 
 editions. Dined at Delmonico's, very bad dinner, and 
 afterwards went down to the ship to say good-bye. They 
 were all ready to go, pilot on board, &c., but the Captain 
 delayed for half-an-hour to have a talk with us. He 
 wanted us badly to go up to Nanaimo with him^ and on to 
 Vancouver, &c., but I did not feel inclined, so after hot 
 whiskies we departed after saying farewell about half-a- 
 dozen times. Carter came down while we were there in a 
 frock ccat and pot hat, and said good-bye. What a fool 
 the poor chap has made of himself. However, he will 
 soon get a job here. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 26th. 
 Winnie cooked breakfast again. About noon I went 
 
 
34 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 into town ; met Nicholls and Forester, and later on Pearse, 
 who introduced mo to a friend, Ward, a very decent chap, 
 son of the banker here. I then went to the Ohib, and 
 thence to the rooms to lunch. In the afternoon again wont 
 to the Club and beat Forester in two games of billiards. 
 Met two fellows whom I have been introduced to, but 
 whose names I forget. Dined at 6-30 p.m. at a small res- 
 taurant. The heat there was terrible, and the dinner bad. 
 The " Poodle Dog " is by far the best restaurant we have 
 been to as yet. Freezing hard to-night but it has been a 
 lovely day. Forester came to our rooms this afternoon 
 and drank whiskey in his tea. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 27th. 
 
 Went to the station to meet theNanaimo train, but Cap- 
 tain Scott did not come by it, so returned to the rooms for 
 lunch. Afterwards went for a walk with Frida, and disr 
 covered the Public Park, where there were lots of boys 
 skating. There is a ** Zoo " here, not a very large one, 
 the principal animals being boars and deers. There aro 
 swarms of the latter in the Island, in fact of both. We 
 then walked up to, Beacon Hill and got a most magnificent 
 view of the whole place. It was a glorious afternoon and 
 very clear. We could see Mount Baker on the mainland 
 beyond Vancouver, a huge mountain covered with snow. 
 Opposite us the magnificient Olj^mpus range in Washington 
 territory, the smoke of Port Agolo at their foot, and be- 
 tween the mountains and us, the Fuca Straits. It was a 
 most level}' sight, one of the finest I ever saw. After 
 dinner at the "Poodle Dog," we walked over to 1-^0, 
 Menzies-street, Barham's house, and spent a very pleasant 
 evening there. It is a very comfortable little house, and 
 they are fortunate enough to have one small servant girl, 
 quite a rarity here. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 28th. 
 
 Very hard frost last night, but no snow, thank goodnebs ; 
 James' liay frozen riglit over. Barhani called, at 10-30, 
 and we walked into town. Ho introduced me to several 
 people and I )iad a good look round at the various offices 
 
Victoria. 
 
 35 
 
 for suitable investments. It seems to me that the land in 
 the immediate vicinity of Victoria is awfully high. There 
 are some nice lots, however, just outside. It is not much 
 use buying a large piece for farming, for it doesn't pay. 
 Lunched and dined at the rooms to-day. Went to the 
 Club this afternoon and saw old Raffles death in the Illus- 
 trated of 7th Inst. ; very sorry to hear of it. Had some 
 splendid salmon for dinner to-night, only \1\ cents a lb. 
 Wild ducks are also only two bits a piece, and salmon is 
 at its most expensive stage now. 
 
 Sunday, March 1st. 
 
 Very late getting up ; had only just finished breakfast 
 at noon when Forester arrived and he and I went for a 
 walk. Returned to early dinner at the rooms but found 
 that Frida had let the joint (pork) get on fire, when our 
 landlady got into a frightful state of excitement (as it 
 was blazing up merrily), seized it, and in a frenzy hurled 
 it out of dcors against a wooden outhouse. Fortunately 
 the latter did not catch fire. When it was over she franti- 
 cally shouted for help, and two men came, only to laugh 
 at her. However, I made a good feed of salmon steak. 
 In the afternoon Captain and Mrs. Scott and Miss Howard 
 called and stopped till 5-45. Miss Howard is very pretty 
 with a game leg. They had arrived from Nanaimo this 
 morning and had driven over to see us from Esquimalt. 
 He wants us to go with him to Vancouver on Tuesday, 
 and we probably shall go. Went to Christ Church Cathe- 
 dral this evening with Forester, who afterwards came to 
 our rooms till 1 1 p.m. Very fair service with nice anthem. 
 The Bishop read the lessons ; service only one hour and 
 ten minutes. Poor sermon. Has been a most perfect 
 day, though of course very cold. Hope to get some 
 skating to-morrow. 
 
 Monday, Mar. 2nd. 
 
 Lovely weather again. Called at Barham's liouse after 
 breakfast, but he was out. Saw Mrs. Barham though, 
 and she said that he was going up the Skeena River any 
 day now, as his steamer had arrived in Victoria. Mrs, 
 
 i 
 
36 
 
 Nanainio. 
 
 Scott called at the rooms at 12 and stopped till 1 p.m., 
 when we lunched, and afterwards Frida and I went for a 
 long walk out to Oak Bay. Charming countrj', like it 
 better than Esquimalt out there ; glorious view of the 
 Straits and Mount Baker in the distance. The barque 
 Scottish Bard is lying in Victoria. She is a most smart 
 little vessel, smaller, though ever so much smarter tlian 
 the Archer. She is a London ship. Met a heap of men I 
 have been introduced to to-day, and ought to have loft a 
 card at the Club, but quite forgot. Dined at the " Poodle 
 Dog;" very fair dinner. Start at 8 a.m. to-morrow for 
 Nanaimo, thence to Vancouver. 
 
 Tuesday, March 3rd. 
 
 One of the nanies, who sleep in the next room to ours, 
 woke me up at 6 a.m. ; I got up immediately, lit the fire, 
 and cooked breakfast ; chops and eggs, as I thought it 
 best for Frida to stay in bed as long as possible. The 
 cab (a hansom) was at the door at 7.30, when we started 
 for the station and got there in good time for tlie train, 
 which left at 8 a.m. Captain Scott, Mrs. Scott and Miss 
 Howard joined us at the first station we stopped at, and 
 on we all went to Nanaimo. A Mr. Ward, son of the 
 banker, and brother to the one Pearse introduced me to, 
 was with us and turned out to be a very nice fellow. He 
 told me all about Lhe sport in this country. His brother- 
 in-law, Drummond, has a huge ranch of over 100,000 
 acres up in the Cariboo district, so he knows a good deal 
 about it. Arrived at Nanaimo at noon, after a delightful 
 run through a most interesting and most beautiful bit of 
 Vancouver Island. Some of the trestle bridges are rather 
 ticklish. Duncan's, a station half way, is very pretty, 
 several English people live there. Shawm gin Lake and 
 the Conicham district are also most beautiful spots. We 
 all walked down to the West Indian to lunch, and after- 
 wards I went over a fine American steamer, the Commodore. 
 Splendid saloon and cabin. Her Captain was very civil, 
 and showed me all over her, and afterwards very kindly 
 lent me his small boat to go after the ducks in. Mrs. 
 Scptt and Mis§ IJoward came with me, and Frida pulled ; 
 
 ^ 
 
 ' 
 
Vancouver Island, 
 
 37 
 
 J 
 
 but I did not get much luck though I liad a lot of shots ; 
 the ladies were awfully iu the way. Meanwhile the West 
 Indian had taken the ground, and when we got on board, 
 had a tremendous list. Lock was very excited about us. 
 
 Wednesday, Mahch 4th. 
 
 The ship again took a bad list during the coaling, as 
 they dumped all the coal into her port side, and if it had 
 not been for Scott being on the alert we should have been 
 on our beam ends. Left Nanaimo at 7 a.m., aivl when I 
 got up for breakfast at 9 o'clock, we were just approaching 
 Vancouver, with two steamers behind us, the Cutch and 
 the Islander. The Cutch had been doing her best to over- 
 take us but could not do it, as the Captain had told old 
 McMicken to cram on every pound of steam he could, and 
 we went faster than I have ever known her go before. 
 As we rounded the point into Coal harbour we passed 
 within a few yards of the wreck of the Beaver, the first 
 steamer that ran on this coast. She is very tiny, about the 
 size of one of the " Great Float "tugs. Yet she came 
 round the Horn. The Public Park was on our right here, 
 8 miles round ; on the left was the Indian village, looking 
 very pretty, and in front was the wonderful city of Van- 
 couver, just five years old. There was a large crowd of 
 people on the wharf to watch us land. Forester came on 
 board almost immediately, having arrived from Victoria 
 in the Islander. He and I went over the town together, 
 and to the C.P.E. Terminus, which is like a little country 
 roadside station at home. The eastbound train was just 
 leaving, and we had a look at the carriages ; not up to 
 much. After dinner on board, drove iu a hack to Targent's 
 house, about two miles out of town, and spent tlio evening 
 there. Drank phiz. Mrs. Targent comes from Crosby. 
 Very comfortable house. 
 
 Thursday, March 5th. 
 
 Forester arranged to have his book published by the 
 Evening Telegram people at a cost of about £20 for 1,000 
 copies ; it will probably be out in about a fortnight. All 
 the pubs are closed to-day on account of the elections. A 
 
3« 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 Captain Copp took me for a ten mile tramp after ducks, 
 but they were very wild and scarce He then took me to 
 his house ; very nice indeed. I hurried back to the ship 
 and had only just time to say good-bye and rush off to tlie 
 Islander, who started immediately we got aboard. She is 
 a magnificent twin-screw steamer, and steams 16 knots. 
 She vibrated awfully though, having lost a blade of her 
 port propeller the other night. We left Vancouver at 4-30 
 p.m. and arrived in Victoria at 10 p.m. (5^ hours). Bright, 
 lovely evening, and flat calm ; all the stars and electric 
 li*^hts were reflected in the sea, and the effect was charming. 
 The Opera House is a fine building in Vancouver, also the 
 C. P. E. Hotel, but the latter is very expensive. The 
 scenery all about is very fine indeed ; shooting and fishing 
 the best in the world ; yet I don't like the place half as 
 well as Victoria, it looks too big for the number of people 
 there ; the population is 15,000. Costello and Paddy had 
 a fight this morning, and Costello got the best of it, giving 
 Paddy a black eye, &c. The price of land in Vancouver 
 is very high at present. I think I shall apply for the 160 
 acres though, if it is still to be had. The Empress of India 
 is expected on the 15th April. 
 
 Friday, Mahoh 6th. 
 
 Raw nasty day. Have got a very bad throat, and cold 
 in the head. Were busy till 3 p.m. changing to the down- 
 stairs room, at which time Mr. and Mrs. Barham called, 
 but did not stay long. Barham is going up to the Skeena 
 river to-night in a wretched little steamer called the 
 Buscoivitz, and I quite forgot to say " good-bye" to him, 
 but shall probably see him again before we go. Met 
 Williams in Government-street ; he had just returned from 
 San Francisco, where he had been to be married. On his 
 return he went on board the Islander^ where ho ex- 
 pected to get the place "^s mate, only to find that the 
 skipper had understood him to have been the cause of the 
 row on board the West Indian, and, therefore, would 
 not give him the berth— .Hher harden him; so I wrote 
 to Capt. Rudlin, of the Islander, explaining that it was not 
 WilUums, 80 I hope it will be all right for him. Dined 
 
 < 
 
Victoria. 
 
 39 
 
 at the ** Poodle *Dog ;" very good dinner. Returned to 
 rooms directly afterwards. My throat very bad and sore. 
 Ijike the downstairs room much better than the old one. 
 
 Saturday, March 7th. 
 
 My cold has been so bad to-day that we only went out 
 for about an hour this afternoon to do some shopping. 
 We mot Mrs. Barham and her little boy on Government- 
 stroot ; her husband went up to the Skeena river last night 
 for the season, and will not be back till September ; Mrs. 
 Barham will go to him in about six weeks time. New 
 lodgers have come here : an Englishman with an American 
 wife. Frida says the latter is a rather objectionable per- 
 sonage, and makes her husband do all the cooking. Had 
 some delicious salmon for dinner to-night : we dined in 
 the rooms. Has not been quite so cold to-day. 
 
 Sunday, March 8th. 
 
 Very wet all day, so much so that neither of us went out, 
 and I'm glad I didn't, on account of my cold, which is a 
 little better to-night. It is rather foggy all the same in 
 this one little room. Wrote to I hatty. Nothing else to 
 record. 
 
 Monday, March 9th. 
 
 Met Williams this morning, who told me he had got his 
 berth in the Islander. I expect my writing to her captain 
 fixed it for him. There was a large fire in China town, 
 and I went to see it. The heat was very great, and the 
 dirty wooden houses were blazing away merrily. There 
 were three or four fire engines at work, preventing the fire 
 spreading. They were purposely burning this part of the 
 China town, and it smelled terribly — a very good way of 
 clearing away a nuisance. Did some shopping with Frida 
 in the afternoon, and went for a long walk in the Park. 
 Lovely afternoon ; wish my cold was better, and then I 
 could enjoy it. They want 164 dollars to take us to Liver- 
 pool by Union, Pacific and New York — rather stiff. The 
 C. P. R., viii Halifax, only charge 119 dollars. Met the 
 mayor this afternoon. A small schooner, the Geneva, has 
 
40 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 just arrived here from Halifax, N. S. She was only 110 
 days on the passage, the quickest on record — distance over 
 14,000 miles, and she is only 97 tons. There is another 
 barque in the Straits, the Enibleton, which has been two 
 years out from Liverpool. 
 
 Tuesday, March 10th. 
 
 Cabled to Avison for money at noon to-day, and made 
 further inquiries at the C. P. K. offices about securing 
 berths on the Vancouver, &c. Went for a walk with Frida 
 in afternoon ; lovely day. Dined at the ** Poodle Dog;" 
 very bad dinner. Cold a little better ; Frida has caught 
 one now, worse luck. Went to the Adjutant of the Cana- 
 dian Battery about exchanging or being transferred into 
 it, in case of our coming out here to live. We went down 
 to see the little schooner the Geneva, that had come all the 
 way from Halifax here, via Cape Horn, She is a most smart 
 looking little vessel with a very pretty bow, rather small 
 though, for such a long voyage. We also went over to the 
 Indian Reservation, to have a look at the Indian village 
 there ; nothing much to see however. 
 
 Wednesday, March 11th. 
 
 A telegram arrived from Avison this morning, saying 
 they had cabled out £100, though I had only asked for 
 £80. Pretty good work, only 24 hours doing it. Lovely 
 day again, but cold. Met Ward and a friend this morning, 
 the latter invited me to go and lunch with him, but I 
 wouldn't as Frida is very seedy to-day. Went for a charm- 
 ing walk this afternoon, right out into the country ; passed 
 the cemetery which is finely situated near the sea. Some 
 of the views were lovely, but it was rather too far for 
 Frida, and we were both tired when we got in. Went 
 down to meet the Islander after dinner, but she is not ex- 
 pected till 2 a.m. in the morning, on account of the over- 
 land train being late. Captain Scott and Forester are 
 coming in her. Met several people I knew to-daj'. The 
 money had not come when I called at the bank this 
 morning, but I expect it will be there to-morrow. 
 
} 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 41 
 
 Thursday, March 12th. 
 Scott and Forester arrived from New Westminster at 1 
 a.m. in the Islander. Met them after breakfast, when Cap- 
 tain Scott went over with me to the bank of B. A. A. and 
 identified me, when I drew out £50 leaving tlie other £50 
 there for safety. Forester says he likes New Westminster 
 very much and wants me to go over there witli him on 
 Monday. I want to start for homo on Wednesday, but 
 Frida is full of fears about the long railway journey ; it 
 will be sickening if we have to stop here, but of course if 
 it will be dangerous for her to travel I must stop. Went 
 over to Esquimau this afternoon to see about some pro- 
 perty ; shall have to go there again on Saturday. Frida 
 got a letter from Edie to-day. Wish to goodness I hnd got 
 Frida safely home ! It will be beastly rot if it was to 
 happen out here ! 
 
 Friday, March 13th. 
 Eather seedy to-day. Received a wire from Liverpool 
 containing one word " Apporto," which means in their 
 code " go to Post Office for letters." It is rather unlikely 
 that I should not have called there ; however, the cable 
 was not signed, so I don't know who it is from, probably 
 Phatty. Went to the agent of the N. P. Railway, to ask 
 him his fare to Liverpool via New York, as they tell mo 
 the snow has be^ i to slide badly on the C. P. E. It is a 
 few dollars more than the latter, but the railway journey 
 is only five-and-a-half days instead of seven. We shall 
 probably go by it. Met Captain Scott. Much milder to- 
 day ; does not suit my cold at all. Saw in to-night's 
 paper about the awful weather in England; also about 
 the capture of Coronel. Fancy the station house being 
 knocked down and 276 people killed by the guns of the 
 Esmeralda! I hope Taylor and his wife have escaped. I 
 see that most of the British merchants have been ordered 
 to leave the country, and that " Wm. Edwards' " estates 
 have been confiscated. He owned most of the coal about 
 Lota, and was reported the richest man in Chili, much 
 richer than Madame Oonsino. 
 
 Saturday, March 14th. 
 Warm summer morning, it registered 60° at breakfast 
 
4* 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 time. At 1 1 o'clock I had just got on to the James' Bay 
 bridge when I met Charlie Pearse riding a ripping little 
 chesnut, very shy of the trams. He had ridden over from 
 Hutley Park for me, leading another liorse for my bene- 
 fit ; very kind of him. I was going there to-day, but we 
 have arranged to ride over to-morrow. Had a long confab 
 with the Northern Pacific agent, in which lie reduced his 
 fare to New York considerably, and it ended up in my 
 promising to go by his line if he would agree to split his 
 commission with me, which he did. Therefore we shall 
 probably go to New York on Thuri next, via Tacooma 
 and Chicago, and thence to Live.^ .* by the Aurania. 
 Hired a skiff at James' Bay this afternoon, as the weather 
 was lovely, and took Frida for a delightful row up tho 
 Gorge. Beautiful scenery, enjoyed it very much. Re- 
 ceived some papers from Ruthin ; I was very glad to get 
 them. A tiny little bark from England has arrived here, 
 The Irvinef about half the size of the Archer. 
 
 Sunday, March 15th. 
 
 Unfortunately it turned out a wet morning, but after 
 breakfast I walked to the outer wharf to see tho s.s. 
 Walla Walla, just ready to start for San Francisco. She 
 is a very fine steamer indeed, as far as her accommodation 
 went, quite as large as the West Indian, I should think. 
 At 11-30 I walked up to Mrs. Howard's house, opposite 
 the cathedral, and met Pearse there, also two other fellows. 
 After smoking there for half-an-hour we mounted our 
 horses — he, a very smart chesnut, and I a ripping little 
 polo pony — and off we started on our 7^ miles ride out to 
 Hutley Park, where we arrived about 1 p.m., after a jolly 
 ride over a good road with lovely scenerj'. The fishing 
 season opened to-day, and on the bridge which we crossed 
 were two men fishing ; on the ground near them lay a pile 
 of trout, one weighing, I should think, over five lbs. They 
 were only using a bent pin with a worm on it. Pearse in- 
 troduced me to his partner, an extremely nice fellow named 
 Stewart. Their property is about 600 acres in extent. 
 After an excellent lunch, served up by Ab Fouk, their 
 Chinaman, it poured with rain till almost 5 p.m., when we 
 went for a stroll. Young Howard turned up, wet through. 
 
Victoria* 
 
 43 
 
 t 
 
 to toll mo about some property, but I would have none of 
 it. Spent a very pleasant evening and turned in about 
 12 p.m. Stewart donned his highland suit for dinner. 
 
 Monday, March 16th. 
 
 Walked over a good part of the estate with Pearse after 
 breakfast. It is without exception one of the most 
 charming spots imaginable ; lovely forest scenery, full of 
 trout, streams literally teeming with trout. We put up 
 several head of game (grouse and pheasants), but though 
 we saw a lot of fresh deer tracks, we did not spot any deer. 
 Stewart and Albert (their foreman) were busy sowing oats. 
 I think they are most lucky to have got hold of such very 
 nice property. After lunch we started back again for 
 Victoria on the same horses we had ridden yesterday. 
 The one I rode, Pearse has very kindly placed at my dis- 
 posal during my stay here. Arrived back at 4 p.m. and 
 found Frida all right. Did some shopping and said good- 
 bye to Forester, at the Oriental Hotel ; he returns to 
 Vancouver to-night by the Islander. I'm pretty tired 
 to-night, having enjoyed my visit to Hutley Park very 
 much, the whole idea is very charming. I would have 
 stopped longer only could not leave Frida by herself. 
 
 Tuesday, March l7th. 
 
 Have had a very long tiring day, especially for Frida, 
 thanks to a wild goose chase that young Howard of Es- 
 quimau took us, after some property on Cordova Bay. 
 Pearse has very kindly put a pony and trap at my disposal 
 till I leave ; so at 3 p.m., after saying good-bye to Scott 
 and receiving from him a present to give to his little 
 daughter at Seacombe, I went to the livery stables opposite 
 the Driard and got the pony liarnessed and drove to the 
 rooms, where I picked up Frida. Young Howard and a 
 friend were waiting for me there, in the former's buggy, 
 so off we started for a bay, where ho said the property was, 
 4 J miles distant. Well, we got to this bay in good time, 
 only to find that the place was on the next bay, Cordova ; 
 80 on we went over a most villainous road for about 20 
 miles, and at last, at 6 p.m., found the place. Most beau- 
 tifully situated, pretty and all that, but my temper was a 
 
1 
 
 '44 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 bit ruffled at the length of the drive on Frida's account, 
 so I \rould have nothing to do with it, so we drove back, 
 arriving home about 8 p.m. Said good-bye to Pearse this 
 morning and took tijkets to Now York, via Chicago. 
 Frida ve.:y knocked up to-r.ight ; beastjy nuisance ! that 
 long drive over such a bad road. Received a letter from 
 Captain Bonson, of the Canadian Battery, giving me infor- 
 mation about exchanging, etc. Weather wet and dull all 
 day and much colder. 
 
 Wednesday, March 18th. 
 
 Stopped in this morning. Young Howard called, bother- 
 ing me about his estate ; I told him to call again. ( ailed 
 on Nickells, who quickly informed me that this Howard 
 property business was a put up job, in toto, which was 
 corroborated by another fellow. He had no power to deal 
 with the property at alx, and what he wanted me to do was 
 to plank down some dollars in deposit (he only wanted 
 100). Then with this in his pocket he would be able to go 
 down to San Francisco with Scott. He is very keen about 
 doing this, and I should have heard no more about the pro- 
 perty. He and his friend called about 4 p.m. and were very 
 specious about it, but T told them I did not think I would 
 purchase any property in the Island this visit. 
 
 Thursday, March 19th. 
 
 Young Howard called after breakfast, and got quite ex- 
 cited when I told him I would have nothing to do with the 
 property definitely. Of course he said he had been to 
 much expense about it, that he had got the deeds, etc., all 
 prepared, but I told him he was a fool for his pains, as he 
 had no business to get anything prepared without my 
 sanction. I never heard of such a rotten, humbugging 
 attempt at a swindle in all my life. I ga^'o it him pretty 
 hot, however, before I had done with him. Nickells has 
 most kindly taken charge of my big portmanteau, two deck 
 chairs, solar topu, gun, and gun case, and cartridge box, 
 till my return to Victoria. Frida did John Chinaman to- 
 day ; he wanted IJ dollars for his washing, but she gave 
 him only 80 cents, in spite of his *• No can do." Went for 
 ^ drive in Pearso's trap to the cemetery and round the 
 
 I 
 
Leaving Victoria. 
 
 45 
 
 park, and wrote to him thanking liim for his kindness. 
 Went on board the City of Kingston at 8 p.m. and were 
 given a splendid cabin with large bed. Her engines work 
 without any noise whatever, I never saw engines work so 
 well. Our baggage was examined on leaving Victoria. 
 
 Friday, March 20th. 
 
 Arrived at Tacoma at 8-15 a.m. and left in the "Atlantic 
 Mail " at seven punctually. We go in the " Tourist" car 
 as far as St. Paul's, and from there to New York, Ist class. 
 This '* Tourist " is very comfortable, but frightfully over- 
 heated. Had a splendid breakfast in the dining car, 
 paid 75 cents. The dining car remains on the train right 
 through to St. Paul's. Nothing can describe the agonizing 
 shaking up we got on board the City of Kingston last night. 
 Wo called at two places before reaching Tacoma, viz.. 
 Port Townsend and Seattle, the latter is the toughest city 
 in the U.S.A. It is not safe for anyone to venture out at 
 niglit there. Well, every time the City of Kingston went 
 astern the vibration was terrible, I should never have 
 thought it possible that a s.s. could have shaken so much. 
 Poor Frida was awfully shaken up. We passed across the 
 *• Cascade " Eange all day; very high mountains. We 
 passed along the edges of some awful precipices, and 
 across tome awe-inspiring wooden trestles across the gul- 
 lies, liundreds of feet high. Had a very goo I dinner 
 to night, very civil waiter. Most magnificient scenery all 
 day. Saw heaps of bear and deer tracks all along the 
 line. Got to Spokemo Falls at midnight. This is a most 
 lovely spot; the falls they say are as fine as any in 
 America, as far as beauty is concerned. 
 
 Saturday, March 21st. 
 
 Were three hours late to-day. Passed through a desert 
 sand}^ country all day ; most uninteresting. Had mutton 
 for dinner. This is a great mining country ; some very 
 rough characters keep boarding the cars. 
 
 Sunday, March 22nd. 
 Proceeded along the right bank of the Yellowstone road 
 all day ; most uninteresling country. Had broiled fillets 
 
46 
 
 Chii 
 
 tcago. 
 
 VA 
 
 of autelopG for dinner. Nothing of interest to note. Car 
 frightfully overheated as usual. 
 
 Monday, March 23rd. 
 
 Flew along all day at great speed. At 7 a.m we were 
 3 hours behind time, yet we did so well that wo arrived at 
 Minneapolis " on time ;" pretty creditable work. Passed 
 through a perfectly level country all day ; most uninter- 
 esting. The heat in the ** Tourist" was unsufforable. 
 One beastly man was continually complaining about the 
 cold, though one could hardly breathe. The confounded 
 fugginess has completely knocked us up and I've got a 
 most beastly cold. Frida, however, is so far all right. 
 She has stood this long and tedious journey wonderfully 
 well. 
 
 Tuesday, March 24th. 
 
 Arrived here punctually at 9 a.m., on time. Am pretty 
 bad with " Grippe," at least I think it must bo that. Am 
 better to-niglit, but Frida has got the symptoms now; 
 hope to goodness she will be able to travel to-morrow. 
 Got into one of Parmelees' busses and drove to the Grand 
 Pacific Hotel, where we put up. Very good room with 
 bath, etc., attached. Awfully tired and done up, so have 
 rested quietly all day. Heaps of " Grippe" about, 900 
 people died from it here last week. Two reporters col- 
 lared me to-day to know where Beaumaris was and other 
 small particulars ; I expect I will be in the papers to- 
 morrow. The population of this city is ** clear" 1,200,000. 
 This is a magnificent hotel and takes up an entire block f 
 everything in it is on a huge scale. Walked down Clerk 
 street to the Chicago and Atlantic ticket office and booked 
 a double berth for to-morrow. 
 
 Wednesday, March. 25th. 
 
 Went again to the Chicago and Atlantic office and 
 changed my sleeper to to-niglit's train. Spent tlio day 
 walking about Chicago. It is full of magnificent buildings, 
 but the paving of the streets is execrable. There is a 
 large building on the shore of Lake Michigan in which 
 au air ship is supposed to be seeu every 15 minutes. I 
 
New York, 
 
 47 
 
 believe it is a fraud ; however, it was blowing a gale on 
 the lake ard I could not see very much. It was bitterly 
 cold and wretched ; everybody seemed to be sneezing and 
 coughing. A most absurd account appeared in the papers 
 about our visit to this citv : I have cut one out and am 
 taking it home. After dining in the hotel we went on 
 board the train at 7 p.m. Very good station. The ** Deer- 
 hound " on Polk Street ; disgustingly uncivil conductor, 
 who gave himself absurd airs. He had a huge mustache 
 and evidently thought a great deal of it ; it was outrage- 
 ous the way he behaved. 
 
 Thursday, March 26th. 
 
 Passed a pretty good night, and at noon a perfect colony 
 of huge oil vats that looked like gasometers scattered all 
 ovf iie plain. These supply New York with coal oil 
 laid < ■ by pipes. This district 's here the great oil sup| ly 
 comes from. Had to get off he train for meals ; it was 
 a beastly nuiaance, espcially as I was suffering from 
 "Grippe." FilJiy bad ; )od tliey gave ua too. Passed 
 the wreck of the two trains t: at collided hist night; one 
 was a passenger, the other a goods', and they met each 
 other at full speed. Uoth engines were driven 30 feet 
 right up the bank, and most of the cars were broken into 
 little pieces. A married couple joined us to-day, and left 
 later on. They behaved i; the most absurd manner, and 
 though they seemed a jw y decent sort, they were awfully 
 shy, and evidently knew that we all kept rudely staring at 
 them. 
 
 Friday, March. 27th. 
 
 Arrived in Jersey Oity at 7 a.m., and having transferred 
 baggage, crossed the river to New York. Beastly cold this 
 morning ; awfully seedy with the " Grippe." AVent to the 
 Cosmopolitan Hotel in Chambers Street and had break- 
 fast. Left Winnie in the drawing room and went down to 
 the Cunard office, where I changed my ticket. Returned 
 to the hotel and went with Frida to see if our luggage was 
 all right ; found it had not arrived, so after finding our 
 cabin and looking over the ship, we returned to the hotel. 
 Had lunch and went on board again at 6 p.m., as we were 
 
i 
 
 48 Leaving New York for Home. 
 
 both tired and I was really ill ; turned in very early. 
 Bitterly cold in New York to-day. Saw a tram car get 
 whisked off the rails in a block and sent whizzing down 
 the street. New York looks only half the city tliat 
 
 Chicago does. 
 
 Saturday, March 28th. 
 
 Were still in bed this morning and fast asleep when we 
 left our wharf in New York, and onlv turned out in time 
 for tlio last breakfast at 10 p.m., when we were on the 
 point of discharging our pilot; a very neat litttle reefed 
 schooner taking him off. Blowing pretty fresh all day ; 
 too cold for me 10 go on deck. Our cabin is very comfort- 
 able, and this is a splendid ship. The North German 
 Lloyd s.s. Saale, simply walked past us during the morning. 
 The passengers on board us seem to think this quite a 
 second class ship. There is absolutely no motion, vibra- 
 tion or otherwise in our cabin ; we are right forward, in 
 the forepart, to tell the truth. 
 
 Sunday, March 29th. 
 
 Service at 10-30, which we attended. Doctor read it. 
 All the la<Ties too ill to play the piano, so had to do with- 
 out liymns, although it is Easter Day. Eun 380 miles 
 from Sandy Hook. Feeding is very good, unfortunately 
 we can neither of us eat much on account of the " Grippe' 
 from which we are suffering. Pretty heavy beam sea, but 
 we neither roll or pitch, she is wonderfully steady. 
 
 Monday, March 30th. 
 
 Run 348 miles ; considered bad for this boat ; quite 
 fast enough for us however. Turned out fine and warm 
 for an hour after lunch, so we ventured out on deck for 
 half an hour. Am just a little better to-day, though 
 Frida is rather Boedy. Our cabin is awfully comfortable, 
 I never slept in a nicer bunk. Heavy beam sea all day. 
 We are keeping a very southerly course, 41° N. at noon to- 
 day. Doctor not a bad sort. 
 
Poetry, 
 
 49 
 
 "STEAITS OF MAGELLAN." 
 
 
 By Thos. Calvert. 
 
 Just before eight bells, 
 Cape Virgin we did pass ; 
 But look I e're so closely, 
 I could not see a lass. 
 They say the Tatagonian maids 
 Go there their clothes to dry, 
 But though I used the telescope, 
 No damsel could I spy. 
 
 Cape Virgin passed, we soon espied 
 A beacon on our starboard side ; 
 With coloured bands of red and white, 
 Some twelve miles ofif, we got a sight. 
 Possession Bay we steer for now 
 And mark off shoals on either bow. 
 To guide her course and shoals escape. 
 To westward of Possession Cape, 
 Another bea'^un rose its head. 
 Still in the colours, white and red. 
 
 Cape Orange and Delgada Point, 
 The cold doth stiffen every joint ; 
 Now, care's required her course to steer. 
 For the Narrows right in front appear. 
 The Channel it is ten miles long, 
 Go on you must, blow light or strong ; 
 But safely through, a rest you get. 
 Although the weather's very wet. 
 
 Now " Asses' Ears " you get a view. 
 Direction Hill ! three boulders, too ! 
 The Captain, always on the Bridge, 
 Takes note of tide, wind, mountain, ridge. 
 Again a broad expanse we reach, 
 Some seven miles from beach to beach ; 
 Wood's settlement, quite near the shore — 
 I think I've heard that name beforo. 
 The Chilian flag he hoists on high, 
 With British ensign we reply. 
 
 Cape Gregory, now, we give wide berth, 
 Likewise the land of fiery earth. 
 The second Narrows are now in sight, 
 Our way still good, and lots of light ; 
 
50 
 
 Poetry. 
 
 Of Channels now to choose, we've two, 
 One's called the " Queen's, the other, "New." 
 The latter is the most direct, 
 The Captain's judgment most'correct. 
 
 Sandy Point we made at two, 
 And frequently our whistle blew ; 
 But no response being made from shore, 
 We've ceased to blow it any more. 
 At anchor, till we cleared our way, 
 At eight bells sailed, that self-same day ; 
 As from our moorings we did part, 
 The hu also made a start. . 
 
 We ran her close for near a mile. 
 And then she foreed ahead in style. 
 Three discs she shows ; we come up grand, 
 The Irii she has lost command. 
 But shortly she begins to move, 
 And surely doth her sailing prove 
 That she is faster, there's no doubt, 
 So once again we keep look out. 
 
 Now right ahead, eight miles or .so, 
 Appears in sight Cape " Isidro." 
 Off Glascett Point we saw a whale 
 Seventy feet from snout to tail. 
 Straight ahead we see Cape Froward, 
 It here began to rain and blow hard. 
 Bays Snug, Woods, Boy a and Fortescue, 
 Where, if you ground, 'tis hard to rescue. 
 
 To enter Crooked Reach we're ready ; 
 
 «« Port, it is, sir. Steady ! Steady !" 
 
 Glaciers bright— stupendous ! — grand ! . 
 
 Assails the eye on every hand. 
 
 For " Field " anchorage then we steer, 
 
 Some •* Banks of Clyde" doth me much cheer. 
 
 At half -past one, when fast asleep, 
 A powerful voice both loud and deep, 
 " A boat 'longside with natives, now, sir !" 
 I quickly donned coat, vest and trowser. 
 It rained, it snowed, 'twas very dark ; 
 •• Two men, a wife," without a sark ! 
 Thoy had no skins except their own. 
 The electric light upon them shone. 
 
 " Bacca, bacca," they did cackle, 
 But we their lingo could not tackle. 
 
Poetry. 
 
 51 
 
 
 { 
 
 I 
 
 They had no skins with 113 to barter, 
 The wife had none — not e'en a garter. 
 We gave them pipes and some tobacco. 
 Some other day, they'd bring •huanaco. 
 We sailed again at half-past two, 
 'Twas cold, 'twas dark, and misty too. 
 
 Sea being smooth and weather bright. 
 We pass Smythe's Channel on our right, 
 But shortly it did blow terrific. 
 As we did steer for the Pacific ; 
 Four miles an hour -losing ground. 
 Capo Pillar passed, we turn right round. 
 Magellan Straits doth end my lay, 
 I'll write some more some other day. 
 
 Smythe's Channel now, we steer for right, 
 The wind abaft, we're soon in sight ; 
 Winding, curving, twisting, curling. 
 Rounding, bounding, sounding, whirling, 
 Sometimes twenty yards from sliore. 
 But always rocks, behind ! before ! 
 No way at times you'd see to windward ; 
 Land-locked, forward, backward, inward ; 
 But by his route, the captain shows. 
 The marks and buoys he truly knows. 
 
 The bell invites us now to dine. 
 We'll view again this huge Loch Fyno. 
 Some Patagonians now we spy. 
 Right in our track their boat doth lie ; 
 No time to waste, no speed abating, 
 They're left behind gesticulating. 
 
 "COLUMBIA COVE." 
 
 The Landsman stands lashed to the side, 
 
 The engines eased, we gently glide ; 
 
 " By the mnrk fifteen " he sings out 
 
 «' Let go !" " It's gone " the mate doth shout ; 
 
 So safely anchored for the night, 
 
 The watch is set and all made right. 
 
 Old fctories stale, that round the Horn, 
 Sometimes at night, or early mom. 
 
 ♦Pronounced Wanneka. 
 
52 
 
 Poetry. 
 
 The " Flying Dutchman " he doth sail, 
 
 But now I tell a different tale. 
 
 We met him in the Straits to-night, 
 
 Before us — with a bright stern light 
 
 Shining just abaft his spanker, 
 
 In the cove where we dropped anchor. 
 
 He came alongside in his boat, 
 
 And having coughed to clear his throat, 
 
 He hailed the Captain " How you vas," 
 
 The Captain he no German has. 
 
 A roll of paper 'neath his arm, 
 
 His presence did not us alarm ; 
 
 A chart he merely wished to borrow, 
 
 To guide him on his course to-morrow ; 
 
 The one he had was very small, 
 
 It hardly was a guide at all. 
 
 The Captain said " Pray come on board." 
 
 He did ; the chart room is well stored ; 
 
 He quickly copied all he wanted, 
 
 Which being done, he then levanted. 
 
 The sailors who rowed him on board 
 
 Saw our two pens, with sheep well stored ; 
 
 One, with a sigh of anguish deep, 
 
 Said, *' We've no mutton on our sheep.'" 
 
 Forward at noon, our course we make, 
 The Dutchman sailing in our wake. 
 Strange-named mountains of all types ; 
 Mountain, ladder, and organ pipes. 
 Of Trinidad Gulf we now are clear ; 
 Pacific swell doth now appear ; 
 Now like a mountain, then like a dell. 
 Till we met Captain Scott in Coronel. 
 
 I 
 
 Printed by W. P. Piatt, 32, Moorflelds, Liverpool. 
 
W1S3 
 
 I