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Mapa. plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too largo to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to right and top to bottom, as many framea aa required. The following diagrama illustrate the method: Lee cartea. planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre filmte d des taux de rMuction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est film^ i partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche i droite, et de haut en bee, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Las diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. rrata to pelure. 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■\ Photo by Root, Chicago. THE NORTH OR. LIFE IN THE Great White World. A Complete and Connected Story of Arctic Explorations, Superbly Illustrated from Real Scenes. Replete with Anecdote, Incident, Thrilling Adventure, and Intense', Interesting Information. The Book with a Purpose Consecrated to Further Polar Investigation. BY EVELYN BRIGGS BALDWIN, A. M. Member of the Chicago Academy of Sciences. Member of the National Geographic Society Washington. D. C. Non-Resld.:nt Member of the Geographical Club of Philadelphia formerly Assistant Observer United States Weather Bureau, and Meteorologist to the Peary North Greenland Expedition. 1893-4. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPFION. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. U. S. A. T8q6. ■■■ M ag M of Copyright, 18^6 BY EVELYN B. BALDWIN. M, in M: coi Th we bai , SPECIAL NOTICE.-AS this book is published for the advancement of Polar Research and »Llrt?n "■*?".? °' '""•"^'"8 *''« '"""» f°' »he better equipment of our expedition, all com- munications relative thereto should be addressed as follows; (Business address) E. B. BALDWIN, Slayton Lyceum Bureau. Central Music Hall, Chicago, III. (Or, Naperville, III.) All sut mo DEDICATED TO My grandfather, Nathaniel Crampton, Esq, for his generous encour- agement at all times; TO My father, who, with the patriotism of a soldier and the appreciation of a scholar, once and again has said "Go!" TO My mother, who finds "in all this discipline a verification of her faith in the leadings of a Divine Providence"- TO My comrades whose fellowship in North Greenland, amidst scenes of common interest, is ever an inspiration for further effort; TO The members and friends of the auxiliary expeditions by whom we were restored opportunely and in health to our homes as an unbroken band; and, finally, TO All lovers of the arts and sciences, among whom are especially the subscribers to this volume as well as to those who may otherwise pro- mote the cause in the advancement of which it has been gladly written. MAPS AND PRINCIPAL ILLUSTRATIONS. Nos. 1. 2-3, 4-5, 6. 7-10. 11-14. 15 16. 17-20 21-22 23-26. 27-28, 29-30, 31-32. n, .. , Pages. —Frontispiece. ,— Fatal Accident on the Matterhorn— Group of Arctic Ex- PJo^'ers Between 16 and 17 —Groups Parry's First and Second Expeditions Between 32 and 33 —Barents' House (Exterior and Interior) 4^{ —Groups Franklin's First Expedition Between 48 and 49, 64 and 65 —Groups Parry's Second Expedition..- Between 80 and 81, 96 and 97 —Group Early Explorers ^^ —Map of the North Polar Regions ......!. ..!io4-io6 —Groups Franltlln's Second Expedition.. Between 112 and 113. 128 and 129 —The. "Fury;" Eskimo Weapons; Glacier; Seal.. Between 144 and 145 — Upernavik: Midnight Scene; Church and Parsonage; the Three Graces; Native Huts.— Sir Leopold McCllntock .Between 160 and 161, 176 and 177 —West Greenland Group; Melville Bay, Eskimos, etc .............. Between 192 and 193 —Cumberland Eskimos.— Sea Game.— South Greenland Natives _. ;"' ;■,•■••. Between 208 and 209 —Reindeer.— Siberian Life:— Reindeer; Swans; Geese 33-34.—' 35-36. 37. 38-39 40, 41-42, 43-44, 45-46, 47-48, 49-50.- 51-52.- 53-54.- 55-56.- 57-58.- 59-60.- 61-62.- 63-64.- 65-66.- 67-68.- 69.- 70.- 71.- 72.- 73.- ^„ ■ ; Between 224 and 225 Officers Nares' Expedition; West Greenland Views ^"'V""vI"Vr""", Between 240 pnd 241 -Godthaab; Nordcnsklold, King Oscar, Lockwood.Between 256 and 257 -Map: From Baffin's Bay to Lincoln Sea 26S -Baffin's Bay Views :-Natives, Dogs, Glaciers .... Between 272 and 273 -Map of King William's Land tit. -General Greely; Cape Dudley Dlgges; Natives... Between 288 and "89 -Musk-Calves. Floe-Ice; Greely Relief Vessels.. ..Between 304 and 305 -Calm, Kyakers, etc.; Godhaven, Ships, Natives.. Between 320 and 3'1 -West Greenland Views; Lady Franklin Bay Expedition _ ■■ jV"""' Between 336 and 337 -Return of the Greely Survivors; Lieut. Peary, Sea Ice -, ■ ; Between' 352 and 353 "Sr^l r' "J""" Between 368 and 369 -The Falcon, Capt. Bartlett; Etah Eskimos, Cape York rp ■■■;"■; ,;••'• Between 384 and .385 -The Falcon :"-Crew; at Disco Between 400 and 401 -Peary Relief Expedition; Dr. Chamberlln Between 416 and 417 -Climbing a Glacier; Dr. Chamberlln, Mr. Brldgman, and the Author on Greenland Glaciers Between 432 and 433 -Ice-berg, Aurora Borealis; the "Kite" Betv/een 448 and 449 -Lieut. Brainard, Paleocrystlc Ice; Jackson-Harmsworth Expe- dition Between 464 and 465 -Nansen and the "Fram;" Masonic Apron, Etc.. Between 480 and 481 -Botanical Specimens; Antarctic Explorers Between 496 and 497 -Names and Ages (1893) of Nansen's Associates 497 -Jackson and Harmsworth, the "Windward" 50' -Andree's Balloon 505 -"Farewell," the "Fair Augusta" 511 ■Hunting Musk-Cat tie []] "^518 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I.-TO Our Readers and Frlends.-Dcfense of Polar Explora- Ho;«~Mr,°' "^^rlt^T' ^^P'°''^tlon.-Means of Equipping Expedl- tions.-Misslon of This Book.— Acknowledgments. n -ii CHAPTER II.-Early Norse, English, and Dutch Voyages "" Ericson- Northeast and Northwest Passages.-Froblsher.-Drake -Barents- Barents' Death.-Slaughter of Arctic Game.-Conflicts with Eskiinos'- Sad Fate Of Hudson.-Search for Hudson.-Dlscovery of Baffin's Bay- . Noble fellows: Captain James and Companions.-Origln of the Hud son's Bay Company em oi me Hud- CHAPTER ni.-Ru8sian Arctic Voyages -Private" Ad venturers.-Peter the Great sPatronage.-Vltus Bering.-The Greatest Geographical Enterprise Ever Undertaken ^ ° CHAPTER IV.-Arctlc Voyages of Captain Cook, the Scoresbys. Sir John Ross, and Others :-Benjamln Franklin's Patronage.-Discovery of the Hawaiian Islands.-Disoovery of the Mackenzie River -The Gosnel Among the Eskimos.-The Northernmost Tribe of People in the World _ Crimson-Colored Snow " ^""^^Na^rfatTv^^^""' ^^''' ^^«yage:-WonderfuiDiscoverie8; A Fascinating CHAPTER VI.-Franklin's First ExpediVionr-Franklin's' Soldier Life -E^^ plores British Amerlca.-Sufferlngs. and Death of Companions 116-129 CHAPTER VII^Russlan Expedltlons:-Wrangell's Great Journeys in'siberia and on the Arctic Ocean.-Life Among the Chookchees Yakuts Tun guses. and Yakaglres.-Visits the Bear Islands-Observance of Easter Sunday.— Exploration of the Tundras... no i -7 CHAPTER Vni.-Parry's Second Voyage-Capture ofaHuge Bear"-lsports trGurofrZT"""^'- ^^^"^ Game.-Exp,oref Regi^on ^h^ CHAPTER XI.-Franklln's Second Expedition, and the Voyage of the B ossom":-Descent of the Mackenzie.-Auroral Displays -Hostile ^^'"'"^^ 177-182 « CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII.— Parry's Fourth Voyage; Attainment of a High Latitude North of Spitzbergen 183-185) CHAPTER XIII.— Second Voyage of Sir John Rous:— Discovery of the North Magnetic Pole.— Booth's Generous Patronage.— A Thrilling Deliverance 190-197 CHAPTER XIV.— Expeditions of Back, and of Dease and Simpson:— To the North Coast of America.— Assassination of Simpson 198-204 CHAPTER XV.— Mlddendorf In the Talmur Peninsula:— Summer Weather and Animal Life.— A Grateful Savage 205-208 CHAPTER XVI.— Fateful Voyage of Franklin, and Expedition of Rae:— Last Message of Franklin.— Rae on Committee Bay 209-212 CHAPTER XVII.— Richardson's Search for Franklin:— He Visits the United States.— Travels via Great Lakes and the Mackenzie River to the Arctic Coast.— Finds Newspapers Within the Arctic World 213-218 CHAPTER XVIII.— Search Expedition of James C. Ross:— To Lancaster Sound and North Somerset .219-221 CHAPTER XIX.— Voyage of the "North Star" 222 CHAPTER XX.— Voyage of the "Plover" and the "Herald" 223 CHAPTER XXL— The Search Continued:— The Admiralty Squadron and Private Expeditions.— The Americans Assist. -Discouraging Results, 224-22ft CHAPTER XXII.— Kennedy's Search Voyage:— Exploration of Prince of Wales Land and North Somerset 227-230 CHAPTER XXIII.— Voyage of ivIcClure and ColUnson.- Discovery of a North- west Passage: To Bering's Strait.— A Strange Deception.— McClure's Discovery of Bank's, or Baring's Land, and oif Prince Albert's Land.— McClure's Sympathy for the Eskimos.— Researches.— Peril and Deliver- ance. — McClure's Gratitude. — Game. — ColUnson's Successful Voyage 231-241 CHAPTER XXIV.— Belcher's Search Squadron: Rescue of McClure.— Aban- donment of the Vessels 242-248 CHAPTER XXV.— The American Search Expedition:— Grlnnell's Generosity. — Congressional Debate.— Red Snow.— Traces of Franklin.— A Perilous Besetment 249-260 CHAPTER XXVI.— Rae's Search and Discovery :— Death of Franklin's Party by Starvation 261-262 CHAPTER XXVII.— Inglefleld's Voyage:— A Signal Success 263-264 CHAPTER XXVIII.— Kane's Expedition:— Grlnnell's Generosity Again.— Ex- plorations In Kane Basin. — Critical Situation and Attempt to Escape. — Final Release 265-282 CHAPTER XXIX.— McCUntock's Successful Voyage:— Important Informa- tion Concerning the Fate of Franklin's Party.— The Search In Klng^ William's Land 283-287 CHAPTER XXX.— Expedition of Hayes:- Public Subscriptions.— In Kennedy- Channel .288-298 CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER XXXI.— Hairg First Expedition:— A Struggle for Recognition.— Generous Patrons.— Life Among th'e Cumberland Island Eskimos. 299-307 CHAPTER XXXH.- Hall's Second Expedition;— His Heart in the Cause.— Discoveries In King William's Land 308-3U CHAPTER XXXHL- German Expeditions:- Public Donations.- The King's Sympathy.— A Perilous Drift on the Sea Ice.— Explorations In East Greenland.— Scientific Study of Polar Life 313-319 CHAPTER XXXIV.— Hall's Last Voyage:— His Death.— Miraculous Preserva- tion of Life.— Among the Famous Etal- Eskimos.- Lost and Afloat on the Sea Ice.— The End by Rescue 323-310 CHAPTER XXXV.— The Discovery of Franz-Josef Land:— Generous Patron- age.— Energetic Leaders.— Loyal Men.— Sunday Observance.— A Joyful Surprise.— Escape by Sledge and Boat 341-353 CHAPTER XXXVI.-The English Expedition of 1875-6 :-Patrlotlc Interest.— Explorations in Grlnnell Land.— Markhem's Sledge Journey 354-362 CHAPTER XXXVII.-Schwatka's Expedition to King William's Land:-Prl- vate Subscriptions.- A Long Sledge Journey.— Abundance of Animal Life. — Intense Cold 363-367 CHAPTER XXXVIII.— Nordenskiold's Wonderful Voyage:— Explorations Along the Siberian Coast.— Through the Northeast Passage 368-373 CHAPTER XXXIX.-De Long's Gallant Struggle:-Mr. Bennett's Liberality — Through Bering's Stralt.-Llfe in the "Jeannette."-islands Discov- ered.— The "Jeannette" Crushed.— On the Retreat.— Separation in a Gale.— Death's Horrid March.— Deliverance of the Survivors. .. .374-404 CHAPTER XL.— Heroic Americans:— The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.— Life at Fort Conger.— Abundance of Game.— Scientific Research.— Attainment of the "Farthest North."— Failures of the Relief Parties!— Retreat to Cape Sabine.- Death by Starvation.- Rescue of the Sur- ^^^0" 405-427 CHAPTER XLI.— Nansen's First Triumph as an Explorer:— The First Jour- ney Across Greenland.— Life and Customs of the Eskimos... 428-441 CHAPTER XLIL-WIth Lieutenant Peary.-The Author's Plans for Polar Research.— Lieutenant Bralnard's Indorsement.— Comrade Astrup's Trip to Melville Bay 442-495 CHAPTER XLIII.— Nansen's Last Famous Voyage:— His Equipment.— Names and Ages of His Associates 496-500 CHAPTER XLIV.-The English in Franz- Josef Land:-The Jackson-Harms- worth Expedition 501-502 CHAPTER XLV.-To the North Pole by Balloon:— Mr. Andree's Project. 503-50R CHAPTER XLVI.— Lovers of the Arts and Sciences:— Free and Accepted Ma- sonry in Arctic Exploration.— Emblems Carried Northward.— Interest Taken in Scientific Exploration by Kane Lodge, New York.— Presenta- tion of an Historical Painting.- Entertaining and Instructive Ad- dresses.— Our Working Principle 507-520 ESKIMO MELODY. V«« V-^^.« >!•.•<,..« .,«...,,., ^,., ^,., ha >jj - a >)a . a <,,. Hi •la . a .ja ■ a ,a • a ^a • a la'T, ^."f, I i»-a -ja., ^a-a -ja.a ^a - a <). . a ,a ■ a ^a - a V-a ia.. >,. ., ,a., ^. ■ a' V . '. \, .\ I Milil TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN ICE NAVIGATION, ETC. BAY-ICE, OR HARBOR-ICE— Ice formed annually In bays or closed Beas. BESET.— To be nearly or entirely fast in the sea-Ice. BORING. OR "BUCKING" ICE.— Forcing the vessel by steam or sail through crowded Ice. FIELD-ICE.— Closely aggregated ice covering a large area. FLOE.— A large piece, either of bay-Ice or of paleocrystlc Ice. FLOEBERO.— A paleocrystlc Iceberg of regular cubical shape, Hat top and bottom, perpendicular sides, "stratified" structure, and regular lines of cleavage. HUMMOCK.— An uneven, irregular part of floe-ice rising above the level, an does a mound above a plain. ICE-BLINK, OR ICE-SKY.— Reflection of light from the ice, causing great brightness in the sky at a particular point. ICE-FOOT.— Sea-ice formed along shore. It is stationary and is separated from the main, movable ice by the tide crack. LAND-ICE, OR FAST-ICE.— Floes or grounded masses of ice attached to the land. LANE, OR LEAD.— A narrow channel or passage between ice masses, through which a vessel may pass. NIPPED.- Situation of a ship when jammed or hard pressed by the Ice. NORTH POLE (Geographical).- Ninety degrees of north latitude: the point directly beneath the North (Polar) Star. NORTH POLE (Magnetic).— The point where the dipping-needle becomes ver- tical—nearly twenty degrees (of latitude) south of the North Geographical Pole. See Voyage of John C. Ross. PACK.— A considerable area of ice, consisting of large masses in close prox- imity. A pack may be either close or open, depending upon the closeness to which the masses are crowded. •V 10 TECHNICAL TERMS. PA-LE-0-CRYST-IC ICE.-Ice of great thickness and of such character as must have required many years in its formation. Occurring genera^^v in prTirie."^ surface is undulatory. like the hiiis and vaiefof a ^ng PANCAKE.— A piece of bay-ice. RUBBLE.— Small, sharp, irregular pieces of ice epnpmiu^ «f .» . . .ion. ana wh,cn nave neea .ro.ea np b/ples^ oTlv' ZT "°" ''''Zt;r~* ""'" """'^--"^ ■""" •"' "'■"' » -"'■'^-'"P to pa,s STREAMS.-Long. narrow aggregations o? broken ice TIDE-CRACK.-The "break," or opening between the ice-foot and th. ^ . body Of ice. It is formed by the action of the tides Ind through irdu^n^ heavy, rising tides, water flows, causing tidal overflows ' ^ WARPING.-Moving a ve3sel by means of ropes attached to distant objects WATER-SKY.-A dark sky, beneath which is generallv tr^ h. f .. water. „ n,ay ne said .o be tne connterpar. Tthe L nUn, " °'"'° YOUNS ICE.-rce of recent formation; that ,e. of not more man one year'. growth, generally of a much shorter period. BL4STING.-Breaking the ice by means of gunpowder or dynamite CALF.-A detached piece of ice either from an iceberg or the face of a glacier CROW'S NEST.-A barrel fastened near the top of the mast, in which the watch may stand in order to direct the course of the ship DOCK.-A recess in the sea-ice in whicb a ship may flnd anchorage. FIORD.— An abrupt opening in the coast. ^'\^bl^ in tTe^rfl^ "' °"" "^^°"^' ''' '-'-'- ''^' -^- -^ ^e avail- PEMMICAN.-Dried lean beef, pulverized and mixed with an equal quantitv of suet. This is seasoned with currants and sugar and th^n m, k heated till the suet .as melted and mixed with rottr n^e eltTt is kept m cans, hermetically sealed. In early times the hunters of BHtish America preserved the flesh of the buffalo by first sun-drying and m x"ng POLYNIA.-A Russian tern, designating an open water space in the ice. RUE-RADDY.-A shoulder-strap used in pulling the sledge ^'Tormfas~fer ''""'' '"' ""'^^ ^"^"'°^ ^'^^ ^''^ -^ ^^^^ °^ *^« "de IRACKING.-Towing or sailing a boat along the edge of the ice. THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: -OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. CHAPTER I. TO OUR READERS AND FRIENDS. A thoughtful and kindly consideration of the following introductory lines is earnestly requested of every person be fore whose eyes they may appear. Such a course Vill explain the motive which has prompted the author in trustin- one more book to the tender mercies of an indulgent public The writer's interest, not merely from theory but from the more practical school of experience, in the matter of exploration and travel, has prompted him to arrange a book "after his own heart"— on the subject of Arctic research. If the reader feels as does the author the importance, the sublimity, of con- tinued effort in the conquest of the Great White World it IS believed that this volume will not be an unwelcome com- panion of Its possessor. Its purpose, its plan, its scope, will appear presently. ' Know you, kind friend and reader, that men of science are agreed that definite knowledge of the Pole and Us region will be of great value to the world? Ex-Judge Charles P. Daly, president of the American Geographical Society, once made an address at one of the meetings, in which he said: "Why should we try to reach the North Pole? Why send , "'^ ,"^ ■■••"" "ivT^iviiij; pvvil to lite and property. when we all know that the approach to the Arctic Zone is 12 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; surrounded by insurmountable barriers? If it involved noth- ing more than the feat of reaching the Pole, it would be very difficult to answer such questions; but the general answer to them IS that there is no portion of the globe where observa- tions in respect to scientific matters affecting the whole elobe every part of it) are so important as in the polar basin and Its vicinity. The tremendous forces which are there at work 2tZ^l ""' *^', '^'"'' "^ *^" ^'^'""^'^ «^ exploration and observation are physical phenomena which it is most im- IT.luV'' ''^'^'''^ ^°^ '*"*^^' ^^^y ^^^^ t« do with the >v nds the ocean currents, magnetic influences, and numerous questions of the most practical nature in their application and in the results to which they lead. The amount of knowl- edge in the world which has been discovered by accident is small in proportion to that which has been the result of pre- fer to'unfw.''"- '° *^' P"'^'^ ^^^^«° ^"^ b^ f«"«d the key to anlock those mysteries in respect to the laws of mag- netism. All know that magnetism is a polar force; that it directs the needle which guides the seaman upon and around the earth. But it is only the scientific man ?hat knows the insurmountable difficulties that beset investigation of Tts IfZfw ^"'"^^°' ^^ *'^ "^^^^ '^ ' *^--^^ ^--^edge "The best answer ever given to the query, 'Well, what is the use of these expeditions?' was that given by Frlnklii 'Whatt th "' '? '' ''^""'^ ''^ ^''''^''y o^ electricity; What IS the use of your discovery?' Franklin's reply was this: 'What is the use of a child?' Make use of it' The most ordinary things in our present civilization owe their origin to what in their day was scientific information, and they are due to the close observation and patient labors of men who could not have predicted the great results that fol- lowed their researches." TT .!°i^! '^^'«^^"^y language of Lieutenant N. F. Maury, of the United States Navy: ^' ^ "Voyages of discovery, with their fascinations and their c.iarms, have led many a noble champion both into the torrid OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 13 and frigid zones; and, notwithstanding tlie liardsliips, suffer- ings and disasters to wliich Nortliern parties liave found themselves exposed, seafaring men, as science has advanced, have looked with deeper and deeper longings toward the mys- tic circles of the polar regions. There icebergs are framed and glaciers launched. There the tides have their cradle, the whales their nursery. There the winds complete their cir- cuits and the currents of the sea their rounds in the wonderful system of oceanic circulation. There the Aurora Borealis is lighted up and the trembling needle brought to rest; and there, too, in the mazes of that mystic circle, terrestrial forces of occult power and of vast influence upon the well-being of man are continually at play. Within the Arctic Circle is the pole of the winds and the poles of the cold, the pole of the earth and of the magnet. It is a circle of mysteries, and the desire to enter it, to explore its untrodden wastes and secret chambers, and to study its physical aspects, has grown into a longing. Noble daring has made Arctic ice and waters classic ground. It is no feverish excitement nor vain ambi- tion that leads man there. It is a higher feeling, a holier mo- tive—a desire to look into the works of creation, to compre- hend the economy of our planet— and to grow wiser and bet- ter by the knowledge. "The expeditions which have been sent to explore unknown sea« have contributed largely to the extent, of human knowl- edge, and they have added renown to nations, and lustre to diadems. Navies are not all for war. Peace has its conquests, science its glories; and no navy can boast of brighter chaplets' than those which have been gathered in the fields of geo- graphical exploration and physical research." Mr. Henry Grinnell, at a meeting of the American Geographical Society of New York, summarized the commercial results of Northern exploration as follow's: "1. Sir H. Gilbert's discovery of the cod fisheries of New- foundland. 2. From Davis' discoveries the great whale fish- eries of the West. a. From the discoveries of Hudson (who also discovered and sailed into our North Biver, which now 14 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; bears his name, while on an Arctic voyage), Hudson's Bay, and the operations of the great fur companies. 4. Sir John Ross; tlie whale fishery of the north and' northwest of Baf- fin's Bay. 5. Captain Parry; whale fishery of Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait, and Prince Regent Inlet. 6. Admiral Beechy; whale fishery of Bering Straits, in which, in the space of two years, the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes from which it is said they have realized eight millions of dollars." A further illustration is to be found in the rapidly develop- ing resources of Alaska, since the purchase of which, from Kussih, in 18()7, the United States has annually received over 1300,000 in revenue fi^m the sealeries alone. In the foregoing paragraphs we have purposely antici- pated the oft-iepoated question, "OF WHAT USE IS ARCTIC EXPLORATION, ANYWAY?" The answers in the language of Lieutenant Maury and Mr. Grinnell should forever silence the tongue of idle objec- tion. As reasonably might one argue against the "use" of spending vast sums of money in studying the worlds now rushing through space millions of miles remote from our little world; or in otherwise promoting the interests of pure science. Well indeed it is for the moral and intellectual well-being of mankind that all are not engaged in the mad rush for wealth, for the mere sake of being considered the possessors — not users — of so many thousands! Sublime indeed it is that one gives money, another talent, another prime years, and even another, life — all that something may be contributed to the sum of human knowledge. Franklin, Kane, Grinnell, Hall, Greely, Lick, Vanderbilt, Rockefeller— all these illustrate the sublimity of man as a public benefactor. No sane person will now question the "use" to which such men put the beneficent portion of their wealth, whether of money or of talent With- out just such contributions as they individually made how many of them would to-day be known beyond a tombstone in- scription? Of those dead, not one! OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 15 The following editorial from the brilliant pen of Noble Prentis, soldier, traveler, journalist, is of interest here: "THE STORY OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION. "There was an interesting meeting of the Koyal Geograph- ical Society in London on Monday evening. The society we nmy well suppose, is composed of men in the decline of years and the 'object of the meeting' was to keep in mind and^uem: ory a ong-ago event, the sailing away in Mav, 1845, of the Among the old men present was Admiral Sir Francis McChntoclc, who commanded the 'Intrepid,' one of the five vessels which set out in 1852 in search of the lost Sir John and his company, and as he spoke of the experience of the searchers he alluded to the help extended by the American P Tyj !'" '''"' ^^'"^ ^^^'^"^^'" ^^^"^'^'^^l »«tions together President Markham, of the society, spoke especially of the ac u lSo3, and finally our own Minister, Mr. Bayard, spoke of b th Americans and Englishmen who had emulated each other in pressing toward the pole; (Ireely and Kane and leary, and Kranklin, Koss and McClintock, rivals in bravery and endurance and determination. ' "The meeting of these ehlerly gentlemen in a quiet room talking over the old explorations and the heroes, for the nZ part gone afforded a striking history and picture of mai's determination to solve the problems of the North Vt first bold navigators were led on by the hope of finding J uorth- west passage to the Pacific and the 'Golden East,' but that Idea wa^ droppetl as impracticable, after Franklin and all his men had perished; then came expeIression that all Arctic voyaj-cs have been made for practically the sanie j-cneral i)nrpose; whereas polar research has passed thronj^h three distinctive pliases: First, for strictly commercial i)nrpo8es in connection Avith trade to the Indies; second, for advancement of geo- graphical, knowledge, and, third, for scientific investij-ations eonnected with physical sciences. "(Commercial interests dictated the grand series of voyages wherein P]ngland, competing with Spain from the period of the ventures of the Cabots to the discoveries of Baffin, sought for a short route to the Indies, across the pole or by a north- west passage. As the futility of efforts by these routes be- came more or less apparent, and as the naval strength of Spain and Portugal ensured their continued monopoly of the growing and valuable trade of the Orient, the attention of England was tuined in sheer desperation to the northeast passage as possibly offering a competing route. While this quest proved impracticable for the sailing ships of the six- teenth century, yet its prosecution inured to the great finan- cial advantage of England through the establishment thereby of intimate and exclusive commercial relations with the grow- ing and hitherto inaccessible empire of Kussia. "The renewal of the true spirit of geographi<'al exploration in the early j^art of the presinit century gave rise to a series of unparalleled voyages in search of the northwest passage, Avhich resulted in the most splendid geographical achieve- ments of the century. These voyages were not splendid alone from the definite results attained, nor from the almost super- human efforts that ensured success, but also from the lofty spirit of endeavor and adventure that inspired the actors. The men who strove therein were lured by no hope of gain,' influenced by no spirit of conquest, but were moved solely OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 19 pssion in Hovka to lonnnato sitivcN of xaini»l('s. voyaj-cs l»urp()H(», sfinctive nuoetion : of jifw)- [^{{•ations voyaj?es ►oi'iod of I, SOUfJfllt a north- •utes be- ^njith of y of the ntion of ortbeast iile this the six- it finaii- thereby le grow- loration a series lassage, achieve- ill alone t super- tie lofty actors. Df gain, I solely by the belief that nuin should know even tlie most desolate regions of his abiding place, the earth, and the determination that the Anglo-Saxon should do his part. "Franklin said: 'Arctic discovery has been fostered from motives as disinterested as they an* enliglitened; not from any prospect of immediate benefit, but from a steady view to the acquir(>ment of useful knowledge and the extension of the bounds of science, and its contributions to natural history and science have excited a general interest. The loss of life in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the average deaths in the same population at home.' Parry adds: 'Such enterprisers, so disinterested as well as useful in their object, do honor even when they fail. They cannot but excite the admiration of every liberal mind.' "Of Chancellor's voyage to the northeast Milton said : 'The discovery of Russia by the Northern Ocean ♦ • ♦ might have seemed an enterprise almost heroic if any higher end than excessive love of gain and traffic had animated the de- sign.' Modern critics except from dispraise the gallant men who in this century have given their lives from no sordid mo- tive, and so merit Milton's full praise. "If not all, certainly some of these arctics have been ani- mated with the noble thought of the poet: "And this gray spirit yearning in desire To follow knowledge like a shining star Beyond the utmost bound of human thought.' "Suffice it is to say, for geogfraphic research, that it has re- mained for the nineteenth century, with its wealth of indus- trial inventions and store of indomitable energy, to make the northwest and northeast passages, to outline the northern siw' 1 ,'"'"' f f *" ^^''"'"' *^^ archipelagoes and islands "Hudson's voyage to the Greenland sba, in 1607 was of vast industrial and commercial importance, for his d seover ' and reports of the incredible number of walruses and whales 20 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; timt froqncntcd thoHo sonH /ajavc i'Imc to tho Spltzborpon whnle liNhcr.v. "The vojaj?" of Poolo for walruHCH and cxplonUioii, in 1(>10, was followc^l by tlu* cNtiiblisliiiK'nt of the wlialc fishery by E-177S, i)rodncts valned at abcmt |90,00(),00(>, merits a( least our brief attention. "(Jrad writes: The Dutch sailors saw in Spitsbergen waters };reat whales in innnenst* numbers, whose catch would be a source of apparently inexhaustible riches. For two cen- turies fleets of whalers frecpiented its seas. The rush to the gold-bearin'- placers of California and the mines of Australia a Horded in our day the only examples at all c(miparable to the host of men attracted by the northern fishery.' "Scoresby says: 'In a short time (whaling) proved the most lucrative and the most imi)ortant branch of national commerce which had ever been offertnl to man.' This em- phatic statement is devoid of exaggeration in the slightest degree. Scoresby gives, year by year, the products of the Dutch whale fishery in the Arctic seas from 10G8 to 177g, which aggregate in value over |100,000,000. When it is known that Scoresby himself caught in thirty voyages fish to the value of 11,000,000, it will not be considered extravagant to place the products of the British whale fishery at |250,000,000. Starbuck gives the product of the American whale fishery from 1804 to 1877 as |332,000,000, making the aggregate of three nations — America, England, and Holland — more than 1080,000,000. How far this amount should be incrensei^ on account of seal, walrus, and other strictly Arctic ,:icu j-ame need not be considered, but Norwegian and llussian fishers have successfully exploited these sources for the past century. "The visit of Liakoff to the New Siberian Islands added eventually a *^ e. \l.}\ of fossil ivory to Siberian trade that was I >ra(i()ii, in iil«' fislu'ry Hand Hciit ilci'H from "he whale I'oiii which i- Innuircd [)0,0()(),00(), pitzbcrgt'ii teh wouhl r two cen- iish to the AuHtralia larablo to I'ovetl the f national This em- ' slighte«t ts of the ^ to 1778, ; is known sh to the vagant to )0,000,000. lie fishery jregate of aoic than reise*^ on an fishers t century. ids added that was OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 21 only second in value to the extraordinary stock of furs that KH'w out of the exi)h)rutions of (he Arctic valley of the Kollnm In UuHsian hunters. From Hudson's voyage to the bay of his Manie are attributable the initiation and deveh»pment of the extrenu.ly valnabh' fur tiv-le of the Ihidson Hay Company IN'iing faih-d to outline the definite geographic relations of tiM' contiguous sh<»res of Asia ami America, but his voyages •liicetly resulted in the very extensive seu and land fur 'trade winch has proved so profitable through a century and a half "Altogether it may be assume!"> among the Mve ^t T '"h T"": '"*' ''' ''''''' ^'^^^ t^^' Etah Esirimos ha^e, It is to be hoped, not been fruitless along these lines and should stinnilate human sympathy for these dwellers on the northern edge of the world. Every lover of mankind will rejoice that Denmark, with the Christian solicitude that has : ^ I ' ■Hilt : 22 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; always marked its policy towards the Greenlr.nders, has ex- tended its unprofitable trade relations to East Greenland and established a missionary station at Angmagsalik for the bene- fit of the natives. May we not hope that some religious asso- ciation may likewise plant the seeds of civilization and Chris- tianity among the Cape York Eskimos? "There is neither intent nor time to eulogize worthily the deeds of living Arctic men, nor even to stimulate the eager rising youth who shall outdo all that has gone before; rather would this brief word add a leaf of laurel to the crowned dead whose Arctic fame forms part of each nation's historic heritage — hallowed for the past, priceless for the present, indispensa- ble for successful futurity. "Shall I name the soldiers or sailors, the explorers or sci- entists, the trader or the whaler? Rather all, since science knows neither station nor profession, neither dialect nor na- tionality. • "In the roll-call of the dead, Austria-Hungary answers with Weyprecht, whose greatest fame will ever be associated with the establishment of the international polar stations. "Denmark follows, equally at home in American, Asiatic, or European waters, through Munk and Hamke, Jan Mayen and Vitus Bering. "Then France with Dela Croyere, Pages, Blosseville, Fabre, Gaimard, Marmiei, Martins, and Bellot, the last a name ever grateful to English ears. "Germany has generously loaned her talent to insure suc- cess wherever sound and important scientific work is to be done. Baer, Bessell, Petermann, and Steller are worthy suc- cessors to Frederick Martens, of the seventeenth century — men and work of which any nation may be proud. "Holland, in Barents, Nay, Tetgales, Kip, and Ileemskerck, presents a roll of honor well in keeping with the notable work of the thousands of Dutch whalers that exploited the Spitz- bergen seas. "The Italian contingent, from tl ■— — iii VI tuc luiirLtrfUiii JJC £JCi ourteenth OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 23 century through the Cabots to Bove <,t our owu day, maintain licre, as elsewhere, their geographic standiu" ".Norwegian Othere set in the ninth century the pioneer standard o Arctic exploration, which later, combined wu" he labor of cploiting the northern seas, h.; Mattilas! Carl sen lobiesen, and a score of others as worthy successors "Russia finds the Arctic problem a domestic quesUon and from the tune of Peter the Cirea.t to to-day has done an amount of work not generally appreciated or known The LaZeffs and Deshneff, Tchirikof, and Liakoff, Anjon and Wrint^ kotzebue and Lutke, Pachtussof, Krusonstern and Zholka stand forth in the annals of the world "In lledenstriim and Torrell, Sweden finds examples that have borne such abundant fruit in the late active labors o her enthusiastic sons. laoors ot and?ur./\"'''-"'"' *'';'" *"" """'«"->• J-'llar was the object :t rth^mSrbrrri:; wSi- r tr""- r ""^- uiea, the men of the new world rose to a hioher nlace in European estimation. * ^ ^" JohnV'r' nHhrrr'" "' ""T '''''' ' ''''''^ ««^^'- "°^^- ^ir Fr.nl. ' •''"'^'"S" ^^''' li"n^lreds enoao-ed in the Flank m search none Lad a more altruistic and ^vmnLlJvit than the American Elisha Kent Kane ITiZllf/ i ^ '•" danger Arctic ice as in the ^yaI for t^ rnion D f '' "'f ""' '° ™ 1 ar"l m' Ir"; "ff' '""' "•'"' f-"'"t""" ■>»■' ■sweetness h„."L'r 1™,^;''':^^'''^ •■>""" "f «*-" o«<.H in a rteld that --o.am:ner=::-:^-:!-a;T:-^ 24 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; out representatives, worthy examplers of British courage and effort? Like Macbeth's kings, the line stretches out to crack of doom. "Great were the daring navigators of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries— Chancellor and Davis and Frobisher, Hudson and Waymouth, Bylot and BaflQu; but were they greater than in their way were Cook, Ilearne, and Mackenzie in the eighteenth? "And when we come to their worthy compeers of this cen- tury, there is barely room for the names of these daring spirits. Here is Britain's unequaled roll: "Austin, Back, Beechey, Buchan, Clavering, Collinson, Cro- zier, Forsyth, Goodsir, Inglefield, Kellett, Kennedy, Lefroy, Lyon, McClure, Maguire, Mecham, Moore, the immortal Nel- son, Osborn, Penny, Pirn, Rae, Bichardson, James C. Ross, John Ross, Sabine, Saunders, Scoresby, father and son; Simp- son, and Stewart. "Close communion in spirit and thought with their record- ed labors for many years has made for me many friends among the great Arctic dead, and so particularly segregates in my mind, from this alphabetical list, the twin Arctic com- peers, Franklin and Parry, as facile princeps in this great com- pany. "Rut the history of these men is inextricably interwoven with the wonderful development of the British 'Empire, and their deeds forever abi*le to the glory of the English speakin^r race. • *' "And of the Arctic dead of Europe, Asia, and America, from the earliest Othere of Norway and tlie Zeni of Italy to the latest fallen in Sweden, Nordenskiold the younger, prom- ising son of his distinguished father, there may well be quoted the words of an American soldier: 'On Fame's -eternal camping ground Their silent tents are spread, And Glory guards with solemn round The bivouac of the dead.' OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 25 "Storm-Stayed and ice-beset no longer, their dust awaits the change and fate ordained by God's eternal laws. "The end they sought, the work they wrought, the courage and devotion they showed, should stand as ideals and patterns for the men of the future in the accoujiplishment of the great Arctic work which it shall be their good fortune to undertake. "But now we look again to England to retake its former place in Arctic research. iShall we look in vain? I believe not. "Let her remember that the beginning of the end will have come for the ever-extending and ever-developing British power when this insular people would ever consent, for any sum in pounds and pence, that the Arctic relics of Greenwich should be scattered, or that there should ever be removed from West- minster Abbey, rich with its clustering memories and gath- ered treasures of a thousand years, the tribute of genius to heroism, of England's poet laureate to its Arctic dead. "Well has it been for Britain that hundreds of its youth have imbibed together learning and patriotism, love of the beautiful and admiration for glory, while translating into classic verse these immortal words: 'Not here. The white north has thy bones, and thou, Heroic sailor soul, Art passing on thine happier voyage now Towards no earthly pole.' " Contrary to popular belief, the LOSS OF LIFE IN ARCTIC RESEARCH has been- remarkably small. Of all the men engaged in the search for Franklin,as well as in Arctic explorations since then less than two per cent died through such service, and in the more recent voyages the casualties have not equailed those ordinarily occurring among the ships on naval duty in othev regions of the globe. Says Lieutenant Maury: "The losses by wreckage around the British Lsles during a single year ex- eeeded the aggregate of all those within the histnrv nf .^n-tic exploration." "" "' 26 ■ liriti THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 1 : Experience has also demonstrated that the health of men when properly provisioned and equipped is even better north of the Arctic Circle i lian in lower latitudes. These conditions met, in that region is made the best blood in the Avorld, as l)ure and vigorous as the air which there purifies and en- livens it. The fact that PRIVATE ENTERPRISE has done so much during the past four hundred years toward acquiring a scientitic knowledge of the polar regions is a hope- ful indication of the spirit of pure benevolence in man, the exercise of which has already in the aggregate led to practical results of great value. A cursory glance at the history of some of the Arctic expeditions will show this. Beginning with Sebastian Cabot, in 1553, who will now venture to ques- tion the utility of the private and governmental expense of sending him in search of a passage which he did not find? For he found something better— he found land. Had Frobish- er's voyages a (luarter of a century later beeu undertaken with a. spirit of exploration and scientific research, instead of a desire for gold, his fifteen years spent in pleading with the nobility of England for funds would not have gone for naught. Greed said nothing was as valuable as gold, and when that was not to be M)und, all else failed. The true spirit of ex- ploration Avould at that time have discovered the whale and seal fisheries of Baffin's Bay, and even the waters of Hudson's Bay. Davis, however, under the generous patronage of his friend Sanderson, in 1585, skirted the wes^t coast of Greenland, and endeavored to lighten expenses by fishing. The desire for gain was made of secondary importance. Kussia, too, has supplied her share of liuniau benefactors; for Schalaroff, in 1758, built a vessel at his own expense and sought to sail along the north coast of Siberia, and Wrangell, although making his journeys with but four or five white companions as the accredited representative of the Naval Department, reduced expenses by the employment of native help. Eoss, after hav- OR, LIFE IN THE GItEAT WHITE WORLD. 27 h of men ter north onditions kvorld, as and en- s toward s a hope- iiiau, the practical istory of eginning to qiies- pense of lot find? Frobish- ken with ead of a with the • naught, hen that it of ex- hale and iludson's ;e of his eenland, le desire too, has laroff, in ail along making s as the reduced Pter hav- ing spent 115,000 of his own, obtained the generous patronage of Felix Booth, by whom he was sent, in 1829, on the voyage which resulted, two years later, in the DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. whereby the navigation of the seas and the surveying of all northern lands is rendered more certain. Moreover, this voy- age led to the introduction of steam-power into Arctic naviga- tion. Back's famous and highly satisfactory expedition was made possible by means of a public subscription of 120,000 and an addition of |10,000 by the Government. A quarter of a century later much of the funds raised in conducting the search for Franklin was raised by private subscriptions. From these, Inglefield, in 1852, was equipped not only by means of contributions in money, but by individual donations of tents, sledges, traveling apparatus, and countless other articles. Kane, in 1853, was "backed" by Henry Grinnell and George Peabody, while various scientific societies also contributed liberally in money and articles of equipment. Hayes, after persistent efforts during five years, succeeded in organizing his expedition in 1860. He first presented his cause before the American Geographical Society and then before the American Association for the Advancement of Science. The association at once appointed a committee of sixteen to assist him in the furtherance of his plans. Eventually FOUR HUNDRED BUSINESS MEN AND FIRMS in Albany, Boston, New York and Philadelphia subscribed liberally to the enterpri e and the Smithsonian Institution supplied the necessary scientific instruments. Hayes also ap- plied toward the expenses of the expedition the funds secured by lecturing. Hall, the son of a blacksmith, having first di- vulged his plans to a few intimate friends, received encour- agement from United States Senator Chase, Governor Den- nison and others, while individuals and societies made response in additional funds and equipment. Free transportatiou was also granted his expedition by one 28 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 1 of the steamship lines. In 1869 the organizers of the Second German Expedition issued an appeal for funds and donations "to the towns of the fatherland," and in reply received the hearty co-operation of their countrymen. The King of Prussia took a personal interest in the suc- cess of the enterprise in a nmnner indicative of a great mind and a kind heart. The Austro-llungarian Expedition, in 1872, was sent out largely at the expense of Count Wilczek. Its discovery of Franz-Josef Land in the following year gave an important vantage-ground to future explorers of the Arctic Ocean. Schwatka, in 1878, was supplied with provisions and equipment from private sources, and was given free transpor- tation by Messrs. Morrison and Brown. In the same year the "Vega," with twenty men. Professor Nordenskiold in charge, was equipped at an expense to the state of only $9,500, the remainder being made up by individual contributions. De Long, in 1879, undertook his ill-starred expedition almost entirely through the liberality of James Gordon Bennett. The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition of 1881-4, Lieutenant Greely commanding, although a "Government enterprise," was fitted out at an expense of only |25,000, three-fourths of which went to charter the vessel, and less than |6,000 for supplies for a party of twenty-five men. Ilad the provisions alone been supplemented by private donations and deposited at Cape Sabine and other desirable points, on the outward voyage, the awful tragedy at Camp Clay would not have occurred. Dr. Nansen's first crossing of Greenland, in 1888, was a suc- cessful private undertaking. Mr. August Gemel became his financial "backer," while the "Committee of Students' Union" and large numbers of his countrymen added liberally to the expeniitionary fund. Nansen's great success in this led him to undertake, in 1893, the great voyage ^he outcome of which the whole world awaits with intense interest. Mav no future historian have to record that the brave voyagers of the "Fram" failed for lack of supplies, or for lack of assistance on the part of a world reveling in luxury while men stand ready and willing to carry that assistance at any opportune moment. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 29 All of Peary's expositions were private ventures, the funds for the same being raised from h i uring, newspaper correspond- ence and other individual sources. Elsewhere, in our reference to Lieutenant Peary's Expedi- tion, AVill be found a concise statement of views which we have long entertained. In the preparation of this volume the author has not done so without careful study and a certain amount of more val- uable experience. Both have enabled him ,to select and ar- range the material so as to save the reader a great expense both of time and money were he to attempt to inform himself concerning North Polar research by the purchase of many expensive books dealing almost exclusively with separate undertakings. So far as known to the writer, no other at- tempt has ever been made to present a popular, up-to-date narrative of Arctic toil, and no pains have been spared to make it replete Avith suggestions for the man of learning as Avell as full of information and entertainment for the masses. Moreover, its purpose, ITS MISSION. is to assist in prosecuting future exploration— as will be learned by reference to the plans stated toAvard the close of the volume. Should its sale not even equal by a fourth that of some other books of less value and durability, and which (some of them not unlaudably) have been published solely for the purpose of private gain, Ave shall be enabled to carry out our plans unhampered for want of funds— Avith an abund- ance of food, clothing, equipment, etc. Men engaged in Arctic service gain but little reward in dollars and dimes— the- are certainly entitled to a fair share of bodily comfort, and the expedition that cannot reasonably provide for this should not venture poleward— be it either north or south. Had some of the past "failures" occurred before starting, how different Avould be the record of results! Men are now agreed that the return voyage should be as carefully provided for as the outward trip. The liberal patronage of our friends and read- 30 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ers not only in dirootly oxtending the circulation of this book, but also in many incidental ways, will help to insure such a result. In the final outcome, with "a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together," each individual may have the satisfac- tion of having done something for the common good'and in rendering success more certain. Already, in the production of these pages— the study and exploration directly represented — have three of the best years of the author's life found expression, for the most part in recording the work of others, yet not without fond hopes in the future and an unshaken confidence in the intelligence and patriotism of the American people in promoting every cause worthy of man's best efforts. Thanking numerous friends and well-wishers, among whom are some of the ablest minds of our great commonwealth, for their generous encouragement and hearty co-operation, the author bespeaks for the cause a like response from many thousands. In due time we trust to be able to return all favors in substantial and enduring ways. To Professor T. C. Chamberlin, formerly president of Mad- ison University, but now head professor of geology, University of Chicago, thanks are especially due for numerous favors, not the least of which are valuable suggestions relating to the arrangement of portions of our manuscript and for his endur- ing interest in the aims and objects proposed. To Mr. H. G. Bryant, commander of the Peary Auxiliary Expedition of 1894; Professor William Libbey of Princeton College; Mr. II. L. Bridgman, Managing Editor of the Brook- lyn Standard Union; Messrs. F. H. Hild, B. M. Smith, David Oliphant, W. B. Conkey, W. J. Root, John Sebastian, Addison C. Thomas, George IT. Benedict, Hon. William A. Vincent, H. TI. Rassweiler, Samuel E.Knecht, Hon. George R. Peck, George T. Nicholson, Professors W. H. Holmes, E. B. Garriott, and E. E. Barnard, the Members of The Chicago Academy of Sciences, and others of Chicago; Mrs. N. C. Knickerbocker, Preceptress of Northwestern College, the late James L. Nichols, Esq., and Messrs, Royce and Scott, Naperville, III ; Messrs. Patrick and OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 81 Liitlio, Oos Moinoa; Mr. E. F. Burnett, Now York; Major H. C. JJalc, Xashvillc; Major T. J. Andi'ivson, Topcka; Mr. J. B. Mar- bury, BaUinioro, and to (Joncral A. W. Greoly, WaHhington, we feel specially obligated for their courteous interest at .all times. TFSON'S CREW SIOHTIKO TUE SlX-iCU WJlAUia WHICH OESCUISU lUEJ luui otr UiBUiXMU. ' Jl . i I U 32 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER II. EARLY NORSE. ENGLISH AND DUTCH VOYAGES. The wind gocth toward the south, and turneth about unto the north; It whirleth about continually, and the wind rcturncth again according to hia circuits.— Ecclesiastcs J. C. He stretcheth out the north over the empty place, aiid hangeth the earth upon nothing.— Job xxvi, 7. Thus, it may bo coiijcctuivd, tlio mau of uiiich wisdom and ilie mau of patiouce oaiii spoke "^'^iJHL*'**"'^- North I'ohir ftgions; ami, although oftou ba ttlp| ' aW||^orish i u g in the at':empt, later generations of mep^have UOTauutedly perse- vered in an ever-enlarging interpiretd'i^.ojJ (tf %e words of iu- spiration. <-^' FASCINATING INDEb V pr is the story, and, though oft told, is eveiecresh, with the eou- ciuding chapters increasing in interest, drawing the reader with siren-like power, irresistibly onward. Fortunately, one is not compellei! to llee to mythological and traditional periods, to any considerable extent, for a be- ginning. The seal of authenticity appears to have been welf stamped upon all Arctic matters from the first. True, that the ancient Greeks considered Scandinavia an island or group of islands; that Tytheas of Marseilles, sailing in 330 B. C. to the Northern Sea, arrived at an island which he called Thule, from his native telos, meaning goal, but by which term is disputable whether he meant Iceland or one of the Shet- lands. The difference, however, is of little moment, since it is dear that he had touched upon Arctic conditions. "Here," he says, "the sun never descends (sets) below the hori- zon for a certain number of days during the summer solstice." Had he remained there during the winter he would doubt- ;o the north; tt iccording to hia mgeth the earth wisdom and North rolar shiuj; ill tlio itedly porso- words of in- vitb tlie c'oii- ^ the I'cnidc'i' tnytholoj^lcal nit, for a ho- ve been wolf True, that and or group in 330 B. C. ch he called f which term of the Shet- oment, since I conditions, low the hori- iier solstice." vould doubt- ••Uripor" July 4, iMlil B "chV.v /l i Ir/.h.. ^ Hi'cchoy. (».) "Hocla" ami Mild "(Jripor^ 8,MtPm ,., 2()" isi i K' '"'>'• Tallin .slay July, isiit. (5.) "Hccla" Htr«if_H.4.cl ,T. (7 J ''Hecla'' an "•hri,,f.r''''!;''''v;;- l""^ u"'"L"''^ ^"''^^ "arrows (See CLapter V. ^ ' *""' ^"^""^ •» Wiuter Harbor, 181-j-20-Boocljey. lil (I.I "Hirla" iiiKT'Oriper, 'AiiKiistn-iJ, lsa)"Lt. Hopi r. (2.) Mn^klJiill, Mi'l- villH lf suspect that the tides are induenced by the moon. Five hundred years later, or about the middle of the eighth century, vve and ' THE BOLD NORSEMEN pushing westward from the (lensely-i)opulate(l shores of Scan- ears tiiat the colony was located between 41° and 42° north latitude, which corresponds with the situation of Ithode Island. Moreover, the old stone tower at Newjjort, lihode Island, an have already seen tiiat, fifteen years after the visit of Columbus to Iceland, he discovered the Bahama Islands, thus )uudina' in OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 35 iiiciting the English and Frencli to rival the Spanish in fur- ther discoveries. The search for a NORTHWEST PASSAGE. by the Cabots, leading to the re-discovei-j- of Newfoundland and Labrador in 1497-8 may be said to be the first in a lon^^ series of voyages undertaken for the purpose of revealing the ice-imprisoned secrets of the Arctic world. In a subsequent voyage, undertaken in 1517, Sebastian Cabot explored the region now known as Hudson's Ray, naming several places. a'JZ '?y''. ^^ Po^''^'^ ^ ^^^"^'^'^ ^'-y^^^^ the Arctic Circle (06 80') attaining G7° 30'. The history of this great man during all these vears is one of varying success and disappointment and we see\im now in the service of England, now of Spain. Meanwhile, ignorant ot the vast extent or configuration of the northern European and Asiatic continents, he had bec(mie imbued with the idea of reaching India by a NORTHEAST PASSAGE, and accordingly in May, 1553, under his own and Koyal Eng- lish patronage, three vessels set sail, one of which, becomino- separated from her consorts, returned to England before the close of the year. Of the other two, the one under command of liichard Chancellor reached the mouth of the Dwina Kiver whence Chancellor, starting from the monastery of St Xich-' •»las, near the present site of Archangel, made a successful overland journey to Moscow, then the residence of Ivan IV or Vasilievitch II., "the '..rrible," czar and autocrat of all the Russians, with whom he opened very friendly and mutu- ally advantageous commercial relations between England and Kussia. The third vessel, under command of Sir Hugh Willoughbv became hemmed in by the ice at the mouth of the Dwina Kiver, and all on board were found frozen to death the fol- lowing season by some Laplanovered the entrance to a sea communicating with the Pacific Ocean. Curiously enough, "to cheer and recreate the spirits of the natives," Davis took Avith him on this expedition a BAND OF MUSIC, the fame of which spread far an'1 wide among the Eskimos, who in their kyacks surrounded the vessels listening to the strains of never-before-heard music and exchanged valuable furs for glass beads and other trinkets. Well does the writer recollect, having been commissioned by Lieutenant Peary to obtain walrus meat from the Eskimos at Noxami, on Inglefield Gulf, in the spring of 1894, to have •v. ■ ff'- irits of the OB. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 39 iM'eu qnestionecFby tliese same people concerning "the kind of music had in America." (Jiving in ex,>lanatio„, by gesture and voice, a decidedly barbarous imitation of a "string band," ever thereafter and wherever met, these FUN-LOVING CREATURES would (kMimnd a re-perf<.rman(e of "K„p.po, tup, tup, rup-pe inv tup rup-po tup, tup, tup, tup," "John Brown's liodv," etc iM'Ne, at any rate, W(>re the favorite "airs" of old Kio.gw;e-toh' ch;:":;rt -If "^-^"^-^ '-' '-'-'-' noMi-goc^„ak, «; Davis' se.-ond voyage, undertaKen in 1580, with two more vessels, the "Mermaid" an,l "North Star," resulted in the dt covery of the ,^rait which bears his name. Reaching Green- land, in latitude 04°, he sent two vessels northward on tl^e cast coast while he proceeded along the west coast as far as ».' • The ice was unusually massive and one field required tliirtc^^n days to pass. The cold winds froze the ropes and sails o such an extent that the sailors were led to comnlain liat by his boldness he might cause their widows and father- less children to give him bitter curses." After making additional exploration of the Cumberland K>ound region and engaging in a CONFLICT WITH THE ESKIMOS, during which three of his men were slain and two wounded he returned to England. ' Davis, writing to a friend, stated that he had reduced the discovery of a northwest i)assage almost to a certainty His third voyage, in ir.ST, was prosecuted as far north as Sander- son's Hope, in latitude 72° 12'. This point was within a half «' ^ightened by stopping to fish wherever practicable. Two h. -J^ 40 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; [ PO of the ships weue therefore detailed for this purpose upon arriving otY Graenlaud. Tlie geographical results of the expedition were very im- portant. Once more the question of a northeast passage wa» pro- pounded, this time by the Dutch. In 15i)J a number of the leading merchants of Holland tittel ' < thn-e vessels under comnuiud of Cornelizoon, Ysbrant/ nd Barents. Pre- viously they had established trading-iM)sts at Kola, in Lap- land, and at Archangel, in Kussia. These would afford bases of supplies in case of retreat. Owing to the failure of the English to pass Kara Strait they determined to try also the passage north of Nova Zembla. This was partly due to the suggestions of Peter Plaucius, a distinguished theologian, astronomer, and rautical adept of the day. Arriving at Nova Zembla, the vessels parted company, one, under Barents, keep- ing west of the island, proceeded north, while the other two continued east and south until they arrived at the "Wind-hole," or Vaigat's Strait, the south rnmost portion of Kara Strait, formed by a narrow but dangerous lane of water separating Vaigat's Island from the mainland. This, with great difficulty, they passed and thereupon entered with UTMOST DELIGHT a vast expanse of blue open sea. The land on their right receding rapidly to the southeast, they supposed themselves off the northeast extremity of Asia and not over 400 miles from . Canton, China. Deluded men ! They had but entered Kara Gulf, and one-third the circumference of the globe — the entire north coast of Siberia— lay yet before them to Bering Strait, which a century and a half of almost superhuman effort would be required to reveal. In their joy, and FULL OF PATRIOTIC ENTHUSIASM, they turned homeward, meeting with Barents on the way, the old ice-master being not a little chagrined at not being able to share in the exultant demonstrations of his companion officers. irposo upon TO very iin- s^e was pro- iibor of Ibo 'ssols uiitlor 'cuts, ri'o- »la, ill Lap- oiild afford o failuro of to try also irtly due to theologian, iiig at Nova rents, keep- B other two Wind -hole," [ara Strait, separating It difficulty, their right ^niselves off miles from tered Kara —the entire ring Strait, ?ffort would he wa}', the being able companion OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. « He had, however, been quite as successful, for, having rounded Cape Nassau, Nova Zembla, on the 10th of July he fought his way through the perilous ice to the Orange Islands' to the north of Nova Zembla, in latitude 77° early in August' The determinations of latitude made by him were verv pre- cise for those days. The following year, 1595, witnessed the departure of a fleet of SIX vessels laden with WARES FOR THE EASTERN MARKET, a yacht accompanying as far as Kara Strait that tidings might be brought home announcing the successful arrival of the fleet in the recently-discovered "sea." But "The best laid schemes o' mice and men Gang aft a-gley, And lea'e us nought but grief and pajn For promised joy." Massive ice rendered Vaigat's Strait impassable and the ex- pedition dejectedly returned home. In command was James \ an Ileemskerke, with Barents as pilot. Again, the next year, lo9(), was a third exipedition of two vessels sent out, Heems- k.'ike commanding one, while Barents once more acted as pilot Passing the Shetland and Faroe Islands, they were met by the drifting ice on June 5th, but on the 11th made land, which they named BEAR ISLAND. because there they had killed a bear. On this voyage they killed two more of them, measuring, the one twelve feet the other thirteen feet, in length, and weighing probably not' less ihan 1,S00 pounds each— the largest on record. Continuinjr northward, they on the IDtli DISCOVERED SPITZBERGEN, supiiosing, however, it to be a part of Greenland. Of this island they explored a considerable of the west coast till stopped by the ice, whereupon tliey returned to Bear Island Here the vessels separated, Oeemskerke and Barents push- ■■<*% : -^ 42 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; iu^' on throiiffli iho ico to Ihc woHt coast of Nova Zombla, then known as Willonglib^v's Island, where tliey arrived Jn]y Kith. Cape Nassan was (hnihU'd on Angnst (Ith and, sonu' (hiys later, tiie Orange Ishmds. Atlainiu}-- the same hititnde as made hy Barents on his first voyage, tlie exi)edition was com- pelkil, by reason of iee, to retreat sonthward along the east foast of Nova Zembhi, where tliey ttnally became ICE-LOCKED in a small harbor, latitude 75° 4,r. Says De Veer, mate of the vessel and historian of the voyage: "The cakes of ice began to pile np around the ship on all sides, and pressed against it so closely that it commenced to crack and give wav, and it seemed as if the vessel would break into a thousand pieces; and when the ice moved it i)nshed and raised the ship as if some huge machine were elevating it in the air." This PERILOUS SITUATION compelled them to effect a landing and provide winter-quar- ters on shore. The ocean currents are not always cruel, for here they had deposited an abundance of drift-wood, doubt- less brought from Siberia. More of this was discovered float- ing on a stream about nine miles in the interior,' and alto- gether the seventet'n men were able to provide for them- selves a WARM LOG CABIN and an abundance of firewood. To the top of the structure Avas erected a chimney, Avliile near the central fireplace was j-eserved a place for a sick comrade. Around the walls were arranged their bunks and from a large cask they took frequent baths. ^1 Their food consisted of provisions transported from the ship. Although they had seen tracks of the bear and the saiga, a species of the antelope, they do not appear to have secured any of these animals for their larder. On the 23d of On. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 43 iIIIII'iVh*" """""' ' •'*• V7;,i tmimmimyi'" iiate of the ' ice beguu I Jij^aiust it ra.y, and it iiid i)io(;os; ' ship us if Dliis BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. (Exterior View.) inter-quar- 4 cruel, for »o(l, (loubt- rerod float- , and alto- for tliem- ' structure 'place was ivalls were k frequent from the r and tlie ir to have the 23d of BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. (Inteiior View.) 44 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; September, a month or more before the disappearance of the sun, THE CARPENTER DIED, being- the first to suecumb "to the rigors of the elinmte." The ground Avas frozen so hard at this time tliat they "could not dig a grave" and were compelled to bury him in the cleft of a rock. De Veer writes: "We look pitifully one upon the other, being in great fear that if the extremity of cold grew to be more and more we should all die there of cold, for that what lire soever we made, would not warm us." Their cabin was soon covered with snow several feet deep and they were obliged to tunnel their way out. During a wind storm the fire refused to burn for four days and the ice formed two inches in thickness upon their bunks, while their clothes were covere• »«■". ..V, „n,l ,vl„...™f r,.,- ,.,.,-t„ , c .vs „,. ha. not ,|..,„,k. An,l »„ ,|,„, „i«i,t «■.. ,„„,„. „„. "»";l>"»- '"(sfor k„,g. A,.,l tl,..«,f w<. I,„,l two „o,„„l» ,; I""l " w "!<■ I>.».UM «l,i,.|, we so„t i„ tUo win... Ami »„ l".>n.« I ..a w,. w...... i„ ou,. own count,,-, and an,o„«» . '"■"""• '.' '■ f"'-'<'' «-eIl as if we l,a"'<'• An,l we al»o ,„a,l,. trinke(»:a, , JM..- ,n,nm.,. was nuulo king of Novnya Ze„,l,a, whiel, s at „;;,;• ^uT "' """ '"--'" '■^'"^■^" "™ --•" o" •'- SUN REAPPEARED and tl.civ was accordingly bustle and stir in the little en- -""I»"<'nt. However, the death of one of their number <,u th. ^yW-H' day caused then, sadness. Fine weather cann^ with the -Mh and they played a game of ball in the open air. Earlv 1 M.M.h the sea ice bej^an to move. On the loth of \pH. u,- .nspect.^ the ship and found it in better condithm than "as anticipated. On May 20th, however, the VESSEL WAS ABANDONED a.Kl by the n,i,I,Ile „f .i„„o tlioy took leave of t!,eir late resi. .Iniee h-u»t,ns tl.omselves to the two ship's boats, an,l i„ a ..-t l.."o rowed to Oranse Island. liefore startin:., Hate „ iJMene{| ,t to the ohnnney of the hoii.se. ^^•l.en b„t four days out their frail crafts were ,au«ht be- tween en,.r.n,ous pans of ice and, abando„i„s all hope of sa it "tl.- boat ,„. lif<, thev took leave of each oH.er. De \-,.e ■ ,w pan uu ,1 1 e l,a,l reached a very -..rse one on whi.h ,h,.v flnallv Here, on the 20th of June, while drifting northward with 46 THK SKAKCII FUU TUld NOUTM I'OM;:; 1 the !(•«', on (lie west counI of Nova Z«'iiil»Iji, the Iniwi niu\ worthy HAIiKNTS IMHI), lojicllMT \vi(li (MH'of tlicNjiiloi's, XiclicilaM AiHlricn. The ilcalli u\' Harrnls, al(li(Mi<;li apparciilly not iMH-xpcctcd to liiinsrlf, was s(» (o liis nu'ii. Ijis rcinaiiis wcic <-oiiiiMitt('(. Veer, "mad «' IIM all feel very sad, scciiio {Un\ ],,. ^as our |H'in<'ipal .unidc and pihd, and uuo in whom we liad every <(Mili(h'n(<'. lint we conhl not resist the will of (} ( 'ajte Xa>;san, in haulinn' the laij^JM- boat ashore, she was upset and they lost nearly all their provisions. A;;ain ]»uttin«; to sea on .Inly l!H!i, they arrived at the southern point of the island on July 2Sth. Shortly afterwards the boats b ccame sepa- leir arrival at the rated in a fo}^' and iii(' northward the expedition disposed of at K(da, the Dutch Iradinu st iscovery. On the a carjio of ^'oods atio II in Lapland, and then | <'"cded to Hear Island, the nam,, of whieh was ehan.-cd Cherry Island. Tlie latitude was del will he recollected that I a hear. This time, th U'o- to (Miniued to be 71 ;{0'. |t lere nine years before Hareiits killed , the conimamh'r, Hennet, loiind foxes. In cov- le ivory tusks of (he a second voya- ade to the islam! in 1(101, he fo.uid it ered with wild fowl and walruses. Tl walrus beiiin. very valuable, an attempt was made t. a return car-o. This was done by criiellv bliiidiuii' tl tiires with small shot and then ) secure le crea- niaimin<; them with hatchets. Out of a thousand thus tortured tli,>v killed but lift The third expedition, in U)05 eeii. succeeded in uctti >, was better e(iiiij)ped, and j;ettin/.' ti larj,^e (luautity of blubber boiled inl,, "li, 111 addition to a car^o (.f teeth. In 1(»(H; Hennet collected 111 two weeks three hogsheads of teeth and twenty-two barrels of oil Ajiaiii, iu um, he wa hours the crew « on this same island and iu ho ven KILLED ONE THOUSAND WALRUSES. A i)air of these monstrous brutes was taken alive to ¥ the male bein««- exhibited at court, "where the 1 Iionorable personaj^es beheld it strangeness of ihe same, the like whereof had 111' laud. iu«>' and manv with admiration for tl le )ceu seen in Eno-land. Not h,no. af((>r it fell sick and <1 As the beast in shape is very str uever before ied. ty, aiKl apt to be taught, as by g«H,d uige, so it is of stranw doth, Knight, in comi)an3' with his brother and one of the seamen, crossed the inlet. A SAD FATE awaited them. Y^^hen last seen they had climbed a hill, and just before i)assing down on the opposite side waved their hats in token of parting to those on board. In vain did the ,lK)atmen await their return. In vain through all the dark .night did the crew fire off their muskets, call long and loudly, and bl,)W the trumpets. Unfortunately bad weather prevailed and the ice prevented searching parties from being sent out. On the night of June 2Sth, however, knowledge of their fate came to hand. They were themselves attacked by about fifty savages Avho surrounded the ship in their canoes. Athough but eight in number, the men were aid(Ml in their defense and ensuing offense by a large mastiff which had been the com- panion of their voyage. rore able to r during the 1', and about ; is owing to istui'bed the liny, in KlOd, h'l' the coni- The middle «htful north ij) upon the ly and hull ?t. Here he lions, brother and 1 a hill, aniperniiMO River, September 1, iN^iU-llood. (Ti.) Kort Knterprisi', May l:i, I'^Jl iSnow Melt- ing) Hack. 'I!.) Kns-kiir-rah, Copper Indian Uuiilo and Hi- Daiiwliter "(ireeii Htorkings"— Hood, t^^ee Cliapier VI,) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 49 The natives became entangled in the ice and the vollevs of musketry fired at them created havoc in their midst. CRIES, GROANS, AND LAMENTATIONS made the night hideous. These savages were small of stature tawny, slightly built, quite beardless, and had flat noses Fearing another attack from increased numbers, the men with rudderless ship and being C()m])elled to keep constantlv at the pumps, put to sea. Through favoring currents and hard work at the oars at the end of three weeks they arrived at the island of Fogo, off the northeast coast of Newfounland— a I'ocky islet which the writer distinctly recollects as having been pointed out to him by the lamented Captain Bartlett* th'Mi commanding the "Falcon," on the way to St. John's, New- foundland, from Anniv(M'sary Lodge, North Greenland Sen- tcniber 12, 1894. ' > Being assisted by the fishermen in repairing their vesw^l, tliey set sail for England, where they arrived Septeml;er 24tli of the same year. Contemporaneous with the first permanent English settle- ment in America, made at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1(107, was also undertaken the first voyage "toward China" by way of the NORTH POLE. M(U'e than three-fourths of a century previous (o this, Kob- ert Thorne had indulged in dreams of attaining this point, but not until after comnu^rce had first been established on more southern waters was this route attemi)te(l. Some mer- chants of London, being desirous of ascertaining a shorter and more direct way to the Pacific, secured a small vessel with ten sailors and placed in command HENRY HUDSON, who was not long in reaching latitude 73°, on the east coast of Cireenland, and thence the northern point of Spitzbergen, in latitude 80°. With strenuous efforts this sage of the sea pushed his staunch little ip 30' of latitude — a record i 50 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; which remained imbroken for nearly two centuries and a quar- ter, or until Parry, the prince of polar ice, attained in the same region in 1827, 83" 45'. The next year on a SECOND VOYAGE he followed the course taken by Barents by way of Nova Zem- bla, but, in latitude 72° 25', was compelled to turn back on account of the ice. His third voyage, made in 1609, was, first, an attempt to push through the ice by way of the faniou;; northeast passage, failing in which he, secondly, immediatel\ sailed for Greenland and Davis' Strait in search for the nt)rlh- west passage; but, being driA-en southward, he touched the western world in the region of Nova Scotia and thence explored the coast as far as Chesapeake Baj', on the return voyage dis- covering and exploring nearly to the present site of Albany the noble stream modestly named by him North Kiver, but now rightlv called Hudson in his honor. It now reiaained for Hudson to make his fourth and last sad voyage. On April 17, ICIO, in a ship of but fifty-five tons burden and with "but six months' provisions, he left London, and, passing the Shetland and Faroe Islands, on the 11th of May sighte . .st course, hitting upon, by the last of June, Resolution Island, discovered in 1570 by Fro- bisher, and thence continued through the strait now bearinj]; his name to the vast inland sea, or bay, also called in his honoi'. Having discovered the great body of v/atcr on St. Michael's OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 51 Day, the 29tli of September, Hudson luinied it Micliaeliiius Bay. It will be remeinbered that Sebastian Cabot had previously explored the bay in 1517. The six months for whieh the ship was provisioned had now nearly elapsed, biit in the three weeks which remained of the allotted period they mij'ht have reached England with- out inconvenience. The majority on board already believed that the South Sea had been reached and the coveted north- west passage found. They seem to have been desirous of makino- their escape before being completely hemmed in by the ice. Hudson, however, was of an adverse opinion and went into winter-quarters. IJy the 10th of November they were completely frozen in and about the same time the GUNNER DIED. The men quite naturally attributed his untimely end to the obstinacy of the commander and were groAving in discontent- ment. Provisions were now so nearly exhausted that in spite of additions nuide by hunting they were reduced to very short rations. The hoi)e— the fascination — of success— of finding an outlet to the Pacific and conse(iuently to a more genial clime, probably induced liudsonto remain until escape became impossible. He ERRED IN JUDGMENT and brought up^Mi himself the sad, sad fate which lie hardly deserved. Had he known to a certainty and in season that there was no other passage to a better climate, as, for example, in going from the north of Greenland or Spitzbergen to the pole, no other avenue of escape than by retracing !:i course, the case niighf be viewed in a different light. Even had he returned to Englanlaii.l uous sea. THE SEARCH FOR HUDSON, undertaken in the .year 1012, led to further j,re,)j,,.aphi(.al knowledge of Hudson Hay, but to no new information eouceru- inj; the abandoned . navigator and his invalid companions. Pricket and liylot, of Hudson's unfortunate party, accom- panied the expedition, which was placed under command of Sir Thomas Button, then a leader of thought in England, but who, thongh well-versed in the history of northern research, ncked the practical experience and insight of IJylot. Entering Hudson's Bay, Button reached Southampton Island, ;,iiiliiig thence westward to the west coast, in latitude 00° 40', E-nied by him "Hopes Checked"— doubtless because the Mnb oken shore-hne (piite dispelled his ambitious faith in the existence of the northwest passage in that region. Pro- ceeding southward, he discovered the bay now known by his name, and, on August 15th, Nelson River, near the mouth of which he sjient the winter, during which period some of the crew died from the ehects of intense cold. In the spring GAME ABOUNDED, and more than 21,000 "white partridges," or ptarmigans, were secured by the crews of both vessels. Had hunting pai'ties been despatched early in the fall an ample supply Of fresh meat and Avarm furs would doubtless have been obtained and no deaths occurred. To this day even, game is "unimaginably abundant" in those regions. In 1894, the late Professor Tyr- rell, of the Canadian Geological Survey, explored a large por- tion of the unknown lands lying to the west of Hudson's Bay. In this treeless region he found that "over an area of three square mihvs or more, the reindeer were so thick as almost com- pletely to shut out from view the ground." In April, 1013, Button left winter quarters and, sailing northward, discovered Mansfield's Islands, in 05°. He then f^ailod to England, crossing the Atlantic in thirteen days from OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 65 ook pos- raphical L'oucei'u- pauions. accom- uand of iiid, but esearcb, ain])lon latitude because faith iu 1. Pro- 1 by his mouth e of the IS, were parties )f fresh led and S'inably ;or Tyr- 'ge por- I's Bay. >f three •st corn- sailing fe then r» from I Cape (liidley, the northernmost point in Labrador. He was still of the opinion that the Northwest Passage led from Hud- son's Bay, seeming to cling to the conviction with as much jx'i'linacity as «lid Hudson himself, and "ravished the public with the whistling of his name," notwithstanding the wiser counter-belief of the less influential Bylot. But it required "generations" for the public mind to accept this. In 1(505 the Danish Government sent out an exploring ex- pedition to search for the old Norse colonists, but when in latitude 09°, near the present site of Christianshaab, the crews of the three vessels rebelled, necessitating the return of the expedition. The next year the government sent out another squadron of four ships to search for gold and silver mines in Greenland. Gn both of these voyages the celebrated Captain James Hall served as pilot. Of the second expedition he wrote that they "landed to see the silver mine, where it was decreed we should take in as much as we could." When in latitude (i(5° 25', or almost on the Arctic Circle, they kidnapped five Eskimos and carried them to Denmark. In 1607, when on another cruise to Greenland, still under Danish auspices, he was compelled to return owing to the mutiny of his crew. Six years later, in 1(J12, Hall, accompanied by Baffin in the employ of the Muscovy Company, revisited the place whence he had stolen the natives in KlOfJ. Neither his ap- pearance nor his treachery haa been forgotten. Attacking him suddenly, one of the Eskimos dealt him such a thrust with his spear that HALL DIED shortly afterward, and the expedition returned to England under command of Baffin, a man well versed in the nautical s( lence of the day and who, by observing the heavenly bodies 14, Captain Gibbons was harassed by violent winds, dense fogs, and treacherous ice, compelling him to return without accomplishing anything of note. In 1G14 also, Foth(»rby and Haffin pushed northward but were comi)elled to return after reaching 80° In 1(115 Fotherby again tried the route directly poleward, but was unable to get beyond Spitzbergoii. During the same year the northwest passage was essayed by way of Hudson's Hay, then supposed by some to be a gulf or inland sea communicating directly with the great South Sea. So confident of success were the l)romoters of this voyage that instructions were given to bring back a Japanese. The expedition was led by Bylot and Baffin, and resulted in Captain By lot's report antagonizing the theory of Button, and the opinion of the public generally. Again, in IGIG, these careful and skillful navigators, with a crew of but fourteen men and two boys, pushed through Davis' Strait, meeting with icebergs whose height above the surface of the water they computed to be 240 feet and length below at nearly 1,500 feer, and, entering a vast expanse of water, DISCOVERED BAFFIN'S BAY, which, owing to the peculiar trenc. of the western coast of Greenland, they judged to be land-locked on the north. Smith, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, which they entered on the north and west of the bay, they thought to be mere smaller bays, or inlets, opening into the large one just discovered, instead OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 67 of being struitw leadiug to larger bodies of water fartlier north jind west. And now, In KIIO, were the Dutcli, nnder tlie liberal i)at- ronage of the broad-minded Christian I\'. of Denmark jiiul Norway, to try for the famous northwest passage. Hy tlie 7th of September, two vessels and sixtj-live men had safely passeht." The sorrowful fate of that brave man did not cure the "itchin«»" and so, in KJ.'}!, he was jj;iven command of an Fnjilish ship and sent to search for a northwest passage. IJefore sailing;, the Kiny; provided him with a letter of instruc- tions, a chart of the regions previously discovered, and a LETTER OP INTRODUCTION to the Emperor of Japan, for that principality was considered to be near the also-supposed-uuremote "New Albion" (Cali- fornia ) and South Sea of Drake. Reaching Salisbury Island, latitude 03° 27', in Hudson's Strait, he noted the sluggishness of the needle and ascribes it to "the sharpness of the air interposed between the needle and the attractive point." On an island which he discovered in the northwest part of Hudson's Bay he found a burial- ground of the Eskimos. With their dead rhoy had deposited bows, arrows, and darts, many with iron heads, and a single one with copper. Later, he found the cross erected by Sir James Button on the Nelson Biver. Here he fell in with the vessel of Captain James, also on a search for the mysterious highway. Fox OB, LIFE IN THH GREAT WHITE WORLD. 69 rf^o brewery It called our nky vat that •ati'H an' the liturry, too." Vf. the liciuor atoirely, siir, ur, would ii't c had, aH he ^c'overy ever ate to John ilid not cure niand of an ?8t passage, r of instrue- , and a shortly afterwards set sail for England, where lie arrived Oc- toher lUst. Having noticed that llu- flow of the tide in Uoe's Welcome, in the northwest portion of Ihnlson's Hay, sets in from the north, and that there are also found many whales he maintained (hat he had been near to the oft-searched-for passage to Japan. Fox wrote an account of his voyage and makes grateful acknowledgment that he had "not lost one man or boy, nor any manner of tackling, having been forth nearly six uionths; all glory be to (Jod." Apologetically of his bo(d{, he writes: "(icntle reach'r, expect not here any flourishing phrases or ,elo(iuent terms; f(U' this child of mine, begot in the northwest's cold clime, where they breed no sch«)lars, is not able to iligest the sweet milk of rhetoric." Rivaling London in her elforts to scdve the location of the northwest passage through the agency of Fox, the city of Bristol had likewise e(iui|)ped a vessel (»f seventy tons under command of ('ai)tain Thomas James, He, too, was furnished with a letter of introduction to the Emp<'ror of Japan. The crew consisted of twcnly-two active, sobev, and unnmr- ried young men who had never before made a voyage to those regions. The wise forethought of Cai)tain Janu's had pro- vided the vessel with everything needful, the supply of provisions being for eighteen months. At the entrance to Hudson's Strait they battled incessantly for five days to keep the huge icebergs from <'rushing the ship. In gratitude for their narrow escajjc they uamtsl a place of refuge which they at last found, "Harbor of God's Trovideuce." More than once again the TERRIBLE ICEPACK crunched against the sides of the vessel and made her tremble from prow to stern. At am)ther time during a gale the anchor slipped and, in again catching, the sudj,'-iib Hock -Hack. CI.) I'lisHinu Tliroutfli I'ort T.Htii (in the ic". .Fiin»i;.5, 1H2I Hiick. d.) Hlooilv Kail, .Juiv W, l.><21 -Hack. (.:>,) Midnight Nii'Wdt Arc! ic Ocean troin MontJKiK '<.i)|MrMiiiie River -Hack. (0.) Doubliiitr ('aD« Harrow, .July jr., IHJl-Hack. (Sei" Chapter VI.) M"fe wips r r| J ^i (1.) PointTumAKinn, Anijnst2i, 1821-nack. (2.) Caiioc Broaching to Oii\<" at Sunrise. August 28 1H21-H.M.(I. (a.) Landing in a Storm, AuKUst 2;i, H21 (i." En. K>kini()s PillHi?inirtlio Boats-Back. (See Falls of Wilbcrforco, 25u fiM>t lii«li (-'hnpter VI.) (fi.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. (jj of the Hudson Bay Conipau.y. Passing an uneventful winter on Charlton Island, he returned to England without having made the great discovery that was expected from the reports of Grosselier, who accompanied him as sub-ordinate officer. A SAILOR'S YARN spun into tlie ears of the King's hydrographer led not only that tlieorist but many of the foremost men of England into re- newed belief that there could yet be discovered a northeast j)assage to Japan and the Malay Archipelago. Charles 11. and his brother, the Duke of York, afterwards Janu-s II., were among the converts. The story, related to JMoxon, the hydrographer, by the pilot of a Greenland whaling vessel, is as follows: "Whereupon, his relation being novel to me, 1 entered into discourse with him, and seemed to question the truth of what he said; but he did assure me that it was true, and that the ship was then at Amsterdam, and many of the men belonging to her could justify the truth of it ; and told me, moreover, that they had sailed two degrees beyond the pole. I asked hhn if they found no laud or islands about the pole. He replied, 'Xo; it was a free, open sea.' I asked him if tliey did not meet with a great deal of ice. He said, 'No; thev saw no ice.' I asked him what weather they had there. He told me, 'Fine, warm weather, such as was at Amsterdam in the summer time, and as hot.'" Captain John Vv^iod, a naval hero under Marlborough, easily persuaded the King and his brother the Duke to tit'out two vessels, the "Speedwell," with sixty-eight men, and the "Pros- perous," eighteen men, for a voyage, following the old course of Barents, between Nova Zenibla and Spitzbergen. The ships under command of Wood, were provisioned foi- sixteen months,' and loaded with merchaiulise for the Japanese market. Bounding North Cape, on June 22d, Wood sailed northeast till stopped by the ice in latitude 7(r. He also concluded that Barents and all other navigators before him were mistaken m supposing land to extend beyond 80°. r 66 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Abandoning his chorlHlied idea, li«' turned his vessels west- ward, when, suddenly, while enveloped in dense fog, the "Speed- well" WENT TO PIECES ON A ROCK, the men, however, with one exception, making good their escape to the shore — on the westernmost promontory of Nova Zembla. From the wreckage washed ashore they obtained l)rovisions and wood for huts and fuel. Fortunately, a week later, July 8th, the "I'rosperous," having escaped dam- age on the rocks, returned in search of her companion vessel, and, tnking on board the shipwrecked men, returned to Eng- land August 23, ItnG. Forty-three years later, the Hudson Bay Company insti- tuted another search for copi)er and the northwest passage. The existence of a rich mine of this metal on the banks of a navigable river north of the company's headquarters, on the Nelson Kiver, had been reported by the natives, and at length James Knight, eighty years of age, then at the head of the company's affairs, persuaded them to send him, "by Ood's i)ermissiou to find out the Straits of Ainan, in order to discover gold and other valuable commodities to the north- ward." This old nmn, with two vessels in immediate command of George Barlow and David Vaughan, sailed in either the summer or autumn of 1710. But tliev never returned. All that has since been learned of their fate will be found in i on- sidering the expedition of Ilearne, a half century later. In 1722 a rescuing party under Captain Scroggs was sent to search for the missing ships. Sailing northward from Churchill Kiver, in Button Bav, thev i- turned with no infor- mation save a confirmation of the report concerning the exist- ence of a copper mine "somewhere in that country." OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 67 CHArTER III. RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGES. Notwithstandinj; tlio early and repeated eft'ortH of the En- julisli and Dutch to discover a northeast passage, nothing was known of the Arctic regions of Siberia east of the Yen-i-se-i even as late as the beginning of the seventeenth century. Doubtless before this time, adventurers in search of furs and game had penetrated far Avithin the interior, but the accounts of the journeys thus made do not appear to be of authentic natures. As previously shown, it was not until the efforts of Chan- cellor, in 1554, to traverse that sought-for passage, that Russia was induced to take an interest in maritime enterprises by showing her a way of obtaining goods from West Europe au-l beyond, without having to receive them through her rivals and enemies, the Poles. THE FIRST ARCTIC VOYAGE made by the Russians was in KUO. This was by private ad- venturers, who coasted for two days eastward from the month of the Kolyma River. The main body of ice had grounded on a shelving ledge of the coast, thus leaving a narrow channel of water between it and the land, in which they plied their small craft. Having met a tribe of Chook-chee Eskimos, articles of barter were exchanged, after the manner of the tribes of Africa and as described by Herodotus. The Russians first placed their wares upon the beach and then withdrew-, where- upon the natives selected such as they desired, leaving instead 1 '■- \l 68 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; a quantity of walruH tusks, which the adventurers gathered and carried L )nie. Two years later, in 1048, DE3T1NEPF, a ( 'ossack, left the Kolviua in c<»inniaud of seven vessels, four of which were soon lost. Bej^inninj; his account with the great cape of the Chook-chees, undoubtedly Cape Kast, Deshneff says: "r is situated between the north and northeast, and turns circularly toward the river Anadir. Over against tue • ape are two islands, upon which Wv^'e seen sonn> men of the Chook-chee nation, who had holes pierced in their lips, through which were ^tu.k pieces of the teeth of the sea horse." These were evidently Alaskan Eskimos. Only one of the three renniining vessels succeeded in reach- ing the mouth of the Anadyr, which empties into the gulf of the same name, the other two having been either lost or left behind. It has been conjectured that an attempt was niadf to carry them across the promontory, a circumstance that would recall the transportation across the Isthmus of Panama of the tirst vessel launched upon the Pacitic. He this as it may, it is clear that Deshneff was the tirst to sail through Bering's Strait. His last vessel was wrecked, however, a little south of the mouth of the Anadyr, and the crew, consisting of twenty-five men, set out to return overland. Having wan- dered ten weeks through an uninhabited waste, they arrived upon the bank of a stream occupied by a small tribe of An- au-li, whom they at once exterminated. Their cruelty, how- ever, resulted somewhat later in increasing their own suf- fering. Deshneff's discovery led to extensive trafiic with the tribes north of Kam-chat-ka, but this was carried on mostly through the interior. A half century uiter, in KJOO, the Rus- sian and Cossack merchant-adventurers plundered, ander pre- text of taxation, the native villages farther south and along the course of the Kamchatka Kiver. In the following year Vla-di-mir At-las-soff, a Cossack officer, bent upon the con- OR. LIFE IN THR GREAT WHITE WOULD. 69 (|ue8t of Kaintliatkn, travorsed the region beivveen the Ir- kutsk and Anadyr rivcrH. He states, bnt npou what anlhorlt.v is unknown, that be- tween the Kol.vnia and the Anadyr ar<' two great capes, the more west(»rn of wiiich -probably Capr North— could not be rounded b\ any vessel by reason of great (luantities of ice to be found there at all times. The Kani-cha-dales were easily conquered. They are de- scribed as being smaller than the Chook-chees, with small faces and great beards, living, during winter, undergi<(und, but, during the summer, in cabins raised from the ground on posts, the entrances being reached by means of ladders. A few years later, STAD-U-CHIN left the Ko-ly-raa in order to explore by sea the great Cape of tli< rhook-chees. Before arriving there, however, he aban- doned his ship and proceeded to cross the ist iiius at its nar- row 'st pan, leaving unexplored all that region lying next to Heriig's Strait. Kussia now being determined to complete the subjugation of the tribes in that section of Siberia, an embassy, the chief of which was i^ETER SIN POPOFF. was sent, in 1711, to require hostages of the Chook-chees. The demand was refused, and not until after : resistance of seven years did they formally submit at the iius^ an fort which had been erected at the mouth of the Anadyr, l»opotf wrote ati account, not only of the peoi>]e couipiered, but also of the Alaskans, from whi< h it appears that no trees grow at Cho«dv- chee "Nos", or Cai- , that on the shore near f he cape were seen vast (|uantities of walrus teeth; tha! the Cho<»k-chees invoke the sun to guarantee the performance of engagements made by them; that some of them owned flocks of reindeer, thus compelling them to change their places of residence; that others, not possessing irindeer, lived on the coast on each side of the cape and subsisted upon iish and walrus; that they *;i 70 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; sdinctinH'H llvod in "(lug-outs," or habitations liollowod from tiic earth; that oj»posite to the cape was to hv seen a large ishnul, ki»owu to theui as the "(Ireat (Vuintrv" -uu. He also learned that some of the latter ])ossessed herds of tanu' reindeer. PETER THE GREAT'S INTEREST IN ARCTIC RESEARCH will be seen from his having, just prior to his death, specifically ])lanne(l two expeditions for northern research. The tirst of these was to proceed from Archangel eastward through tlic ice of the Arctic Sea and explore the north coast of Siberia, This, however, came to naught, owing to the besetment of tlic v<'ssels. The second was to proceed overland to Kam-chat-kii and, having there built a vessel, to sail northward and ascer- tain the position of the Anu'rican coast. Peter himself did not believe that there was a strait separating the two conti nents. Ignorant of the vast eastern extension of Siberia and of the width of the Pacitic Ocean, he was desirous of opening a way, through northeastern Siberia, to the rich European col- OR. LIFE IN THF3 GREAT WHITE WORLD. n ou'wH of Central Ainciicu. Tlu* piTHou Helected by the Czar UH rliicf of the cxiKMlil ion was VITUS BERING. a Dano, born of ChriHtian parcntH, at IIorHouH, in 1081. Ills fatlier, JonaH Svcudsen, held, for a hvv'wh of yeai'H, several powi- tions of truHt, while his mother, the Hecond wife of Svendsen and whoHe maiden name was Anna Herinj;, was of u family who, in the neventeenth and eijj;liteenth eentnries, iuclmled a number of nunisterM and judicial oflleerH. In worldly poHHes- sions, however, the i)arentH were poor, as may be judj-cd from the following;- extract of probate record of their eHtute: "We are old, miserable, and decrepit peoi)le, in no way able to helj) ourselves. Our pro|)erty consists of the old dilapiilated honie and the furniture thereto belon^in}::, which is of but little value." The share of this small property, which fell somewhat later to Vitus, amounting? to but 140 rij^sdaler, its lej^al pos- sessor transferred +o his native town to be distributed among' its j)oor. Inclination and force of circumstances urged young Bering to the sea. Upon his return from an East India expedition, in ITtKi, he met, at Amsterdam, the celebrated Cornelius Cruys, a Xorwegian by birth, but at that time admiral of the Russian tl<'et. lie had previously Ix'en assistant master of ordnance in the Dutch navy. Through him, Bering now, at the early age of twenty-two, entered the Ttussian Heet as a sub-lieuten- ant. His advancement there was steady and meritorious, un- til at length we find him, after twentj'-one years of faithful service in the (V.ar's navy, at the head of the first of his great exjx'ditions, each of which is unique in the history of Arctic exjdorations. Peter the Great died January 28, 1725. Only four days before this event, one division of Bering's expedition had left St. Petersburg on its long journey. Bering f(dlowed on the Hth of February. His chief asso- ciates were: Another Dane, Martin Spangberg, lieutenant and second in command; Lieutenant Alexei Chirikoff, second \ r i'^ '72 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; lieutenant; Peter Chaplin, Messrs. Luskin and PatiloflF, the cartographers; Messrs. Engel and Morison, the mates; I)r. Nieniauu, and Kev. Mr. Ilarion. Sailors, carpenters, sail- makers, blacksmiths, etc., composed the principal subor- dinates. On March 10th the expedition arrived at Tobolsk, whence t]ie journey continued with rafts and boats on the rivers Irtish, (^)bi, Ket, Yenisei, Tunguska and Ilim, between which it was necessary to make tedious portages. Arriving at Ilimsk— on the Ilim— on September 29th, the expedition there spent the winter of 1725-6. Meanwhile, Chaplin was sent to Ya-kutsk, the capital of East Siberia, in order to make ready for the more rapid transportation of the expedition thence to Ok- hotsk, whither he was to send a small party of ship-builders, who were to fell trees and begin the construction of a vessel; Spangberg, with a body of mechanics, was despatched to the Kut, where were constructed fifteen barges, each forty-five feet long and tAvelve wide, and fourteen boats, for river transpor- tation in the spring; while Bering himself sought information from the governor at Irkutsk concerning the climate and physical features of East Siberia, the modes of travel, the peo- ple, etc., of that comparatively unknown country. Not until the middle of June, 1720, did the expedition reach Ya-kutsT:. which at that time contained 300 houses. Thence to Ok-hotsk war* 685 miles of rou • , mountainous country, intersected by numerous deep streams without I Jdges. Tun- dras, swamps, and dense forests likewise hindered rapid prog- ress. Deep sno\,s and temperatures of from 40° to 70° F. be- low zero exliausted horses, dog.:, and reindeer. Scores of them perished. From Ya-kutsk the expedition advanced over the rough course in separate divisions: Spangberg, with thirteen rafts and 204 Avorkmen, started on the 7th of July for Yu-domsk-ay-a Krest via tributaries Aldan, Maya and Yudoma, and thence across tlie ridge, for the Urak, which (>mpties into the sen of Ok ]u!ts:k; Bering himself started on August 16tb, with OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 73 l>()0 of the 800 horses belonging to the expedition, and made tlic journey overland in fortj-tive days. Ok-hotsk at this time contained only eleven huts and ten liussian families, who supported themselves by tishingv The entire month of November was therefore spent in felling trees itnd providing winter (juarters for the expedition. At the Slime time Bering pushed for>vard vigorously the construction of the ship. Still, not all of the expedition had arrived. Spangberg, having been overtaken by winter on the Yu-do-ma. 275 miles southwest of Yu-domsk-ay-a Krest, there left the boats and the hulk of the provisions in charge of seven men, and was proceed- ing on foot with his command with what provisions they could (iiiry on hand-sleds, toward Ok-hotsk, while Chi-ri-koff was somewhere far in the rear. Of the belated forces, Spangberg's fared the worsl. The Icmperature was so low that mercury remained congealed and the snow soon attained a depth of six feet. This com- pelled them to abandon the sledges, and for eight weeks, be- ginniii.; with November 4th, cold and famine followed con- stantly in their tracks. Straps, leather bags and shoes be- came their only food. Every man must have perished had they not providentially hit upon Bering's route, where were found a small quantity of flour and some dead horses, upon which they lived till relieved by [)arties despatched for their assistance. It was the middle of January, 1727, before Sjjang- berg's half-starved command Jirrived. Eighteen were on the sick list. The rear, under Chi-ri-koff, did not appear till mid- summer. From Ok-hotsk the entire ])arty was transported across the sea of Ok-hotsk to tlu^ mouth of the Kiver Bol-sho-ya, in the scmthwestern part of Kam-chat-ka. This was distant 050 miles and was not reachei)lies during the winter the re- maining 585 miles across the peninsuhi to the lower fort on the Kamchatka, twenty miles from its mouth, on the east coast. At that time the extent of the })eninsula was unknown, anork, and salt obtained from the sea," the undaunted Bering, with his gallant crew of forty-four men, followed a course nearly all the tim(» along the coast nortlmard. On July 2Tth, at (^ape Thaddeus, the sea was alive with dolphins, seals, sea-lions, and spotted whales. On August 8th, when in latitiule 04° 41', eight native men were seen rowing toward the "Oabriel," but feared to draw near. One <»f (hem, however, sprang into the sea, and, resting upon two inflated bladders, swam to the ship. By aid of the Koriak inhrpreters on board it was learned that the natives were ('hook-chees; that they knew tlK' Russians well; that the lUver Anadyr lay far to the west; that the coast e.Ueudeil OR. LIFE IN THE GREaT WHITE WORLD. 75 in the same direction, autl that the "Gabriel" would seoii come In slj>lit of an island. Heriug gave the straujiers some small presents and en- deavored to persuade them to come ou board. Approaching the vessel they, however, suddenly turned „nd disappeared. Proceeding in a south-southeasterly direction. Cape Chu- kot-skoi was doubled on the 9th. Two days later (11th, ship's time; 10th, calendar's) an island was discovered, which Bering, in honor of the day, called St. Lawrence. At noon the latitupv families' of menageries, it could hardly have acted-ditterent'lv. In all his movements Bering was hampered by this academical dead- weight. The professors not only lacked appreciation of Be- ring s efforts in their behalf, but they also besieged him with (omplaints, made record of them and wound up-character- istically enough-with a resolution f^ .prefer formal charges Jigainst him before the Senate." All told, the Academists of the expedition numbered be- tween thirty and forty men; the expeditionarv f<,rce proper al>out 5.0, consisting of Vitus Bering, commmider; Spang- herg ami Chirikoff, captains; eight lieutenants, sixteen mates twelve physicians, seven priests, stewards, sailors, ship-car- penters, workmen, etc Of these, KK) were assigned to duty in the Ar(^c division; ,he rest, in the Pacifi,-. More than half <'t the officers, many mates, and all of the phvsicians were for- •'•gners Most of the officers we-e accompanied bv their wives ."id children. An absen<-e of six years was intended In order to expedite the movements of this i,ln„.st uu-ov- ernablebodv, thp«ihe'*i'5n '"i^lurUinc ->>,., ', ir ()k-hotsk. k, where he '(•tic expedl- Petersburji, e haste, did ear. From tie division, 'iiaut Ofzvii r the Polar 'm as far as ? main com- 1 October of enj;aged in \ Arctic di- June 30th. nt-chi-shefl', about fifty r Peuinsula pd boat "li- id the oldest was to fol- tig" (Chook- ion of Asia e peninsulii (ifKauichatka. Lassenins was also to find the Roar Islands oil' tl:; mouth of the Kolyma. ' After the depai-ture of these vessels, P»erinjv applied his energies to the I»acifi<- division. Waarves, maj;azines, bar- liicks, winter huts, and scores of water crafts were constructed .•ilon<;- the river route to Ok-hotsk. At Yakutsk were estab- lislicd a furnace and an iron foundry, where the vessels were supi)lied with anchors and other iron, and here were received those other heavy supplies brought from West Siberia in 1735- 3(1, and which were later sent to Ok-hotsk. To this port, as already noted. Lieutenant Span{,^berj>- had jioue. Here the banished Major-Oeneral IMs-sar-jetf, then re- duced to a sort of harbor-master of the nlace, became his im- phuable persecutor. The Dane, however, was not easily over- a-.ved, and in the autumn of 173() declared that he would rid himself of the "OLD SCOUNDREL" and compelled him to flee to Yakutsk. Here he, with others, continued to obstruct the prooress of the expedition. Notwithstaudinjjj all dimculties, Bering continued during the next three years to advance the enormous stores— enough for six or eight vessels— toward the sea. First, down the Lena, then up the Aldan, Maya and Yudomu rivers, across the Stan- ovoi Mountains, and, finally, down the Urak to Ok-hotsk. In this work more than 1,000 men were employed. Meantime, in 173(1, ncnvs reached Bering of the misfortunes attending the second Arctic division which had descended the Lena the year previous. Pron-chi-sheff had been obliged to go into winter quarters at 01-uek, while Lassenius, after reaching the mouth of the river, was likewise obliged to seek shelter a little eastward, in latitude 71° 28'. Oore, dnring the winter, Lassenius, most of his officers, and thiny-one of the crew died of scnrvy. A relief party despatched bv Bering found onlv <'iglit men alive. To take their places Bering - himself to the utmost in e(iui|»pinj;' ex])editions, endurinjj;' continual vexations from the Siberian government — especially on account of IMssarjeff — and conductiufi, frequent examinations and investigations into the quarrels and com- plaints of his subcu'dinates." With respect to Pissai'jeff, Bering- writes: "For a corre- spondence with him alone I nii<;ht use three ^ood secretaries. I find his foul-tonjiued criticism extremely offensive." Meantime, in 173S, S])an<;ber(al- ,lnrk.-r VV.^''un!;, h V- m-lik K'' U n (6.) Kski.no of K'-loo-l.k, in liin l.rkli. Jaekot hyoJ; a.)'E."kin^^^^^ Leader of tl.o T..a,n hcnu tl,.- •K.n^' DoK-Lyon. (See Chapter Vlll.) Taimur t(i tU'dt ( noi'fli 'P since ct; (Iciidoif ceeded : that am IIIUNf b«» scvcraiK stands ] Taiiii.vi' Dniil charted th<» moil through I iide. J l>i'cvi(nis lictu 1740 foil nine vcsi ofOkhot Wcii; sailed to Here a f( tcr, the 1 I'eter an^ Final iij;ain \v( Nvas in ii seven nu with s(n'( search fo came sep Ff Lassenius, charted the coast from the mouth of the Lena < astward bevoud' the mouth of the Kolynui as far as the (Jreat l{aram)ff Ki)cks, through a distance of more than thirty-seven decrees of h)nj«i. mae. Jiut Cape Che-laj!;-skoi, whither Deshneff, a century previous had shown the way, he did not succeed in (h)ublinj?. ' _ li(4ui'nin^' m)w to the movements of Berinj»-, the summer of 1740 found him in command of a respectable fleet of eioht or iiiue vessels, all built by himself, in the harbor and on the sea of Okhotsk. Wei-hins anclKu- on the 8th of September, 1740, IJeriu^^ sailed to Avacha Bay, on the southeast coast of Kamchatktr Here a foi-t and a church were erected in the course of the win- ter, the pious Kerinj.' consecratino- the house of worship to St I'cter and St. Paul, thus foundin- the town of Petro-paul-ovsk. Finally, from this port, after a prayer service, the shi])s :ij;ain weij-hed anchor on June 4th, 174L Of these, BeTim- was in immediate command of the "St. Peter," AvitJ; sevent v- seven men. Chirik(.ff was placed in char-e of the "St. Paul," with seventy-six men. First takin- a southeasterly course in search for the erroneously-sui)i)ose(l Gainaland, the' vessels be- •ame separated on the 20th, never a-ain to meet. F(»r the next four weeks th(> "St. Peter" sailed northeasterl v. ^uMA)}! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 'V. s?i A < <^ A/ % ^ ^/. "^z. 1.0 I.I 121 2.5 2.2 1^ i^ L^ 1^ 12.0 1.8 Uk ill 11 1.6 V] <^ /i / Photographic _Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV 4i>^ ^\ •% .V ^1\ '^^ f/u mn 82 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; u Uoriiig's health was shattered and he was confined much of the time to his bunk. At length, at noon on the ICth of July, land was sighte church: the Russians, to the church at Petropaulovsk; the Lutherans, to the church in Viborg, Finland, whrre Bering OR, LIFE Ix\ THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 83 l.ad formerly resided. Anions the men, death followed death and the helmsmen were .so feeble as scarcely to be able to walk to the whee when conducted there by other sick companions. At length on November f>, 1741, the vessel, without helms- man and with commander at death's door in his cabin, strand- ed on the most western of the two largest of the Commander Islands and which has been appropriately called in Bcaino's lionor, for with its soil are mingled the ashes of the illustrious <'xplorer. Shortly before the stranding of the "St. Peter," twelve of the men had perished, and soon thereafter nine more died Hor rible starvation stared them in the face. Haying with painful difficulty effected a landing, those who were at all able to work began to collect drift-wood, to dUr and to roof pits in which to live. In these efforts, Steller, th^e im- mortal (Jerman naturalist, was the very soul of the entire party. For the sick and dying he was both cook and phvsician he SICK became so afflicted with scurvy that the gumi, like a dark-brown sponge, slowly protruded and covered the teeth of the victims; while the dead were quickly devoured by foxes before they could be buried. It was December before the entire party were (iuarterenl('iiiiM)raneoiis with tlio French and Indian War, the northwest passage was again sought for. In the spring of 1754, Captain (;harles sSwaine, leaving Thihidelphia, Pennsyl- vania, in the American schooner "Argo," in vain sought the Avaters of Hudson's Bay. The previous winter had been an unusually severe one, and other vessels bound for the northern whale fisheries were also turned back on ac- count of the ice. SAvaine then directed his attention to a perfect exploration of the west coast of Labrador from its northern point, latitude about (50°, southward to latitude 54°. He found six important inlets, but not a passage leading Avest- Avard to Hudson's Ray as he had anticipated. He also col- lected information concerning the soil, produce, and people of the country, and noted that a high mountain range, one hun- dred fifty miles inland, traversed the interior from north to south. On one of the inlets he found a deserted Avooden house Avith a brick chimney. Shortly after-, rds he met Avith a bark, Captain ^off, from London, Avho informed him that the house Avas built there the year previous by some Moravian missionaries Avho had been landed there from the vessel Avliich he Avas then commanding. Rut the captain and six of his men having been kidnapped by the natives, it became necessary, after more than two weeks' delay vainly aA\'aiting the return of the men, for the missionaries to return Avith the remainder of the crew in order to work the vessel. Ooff was then seeking information concerning the fate of the men. Swaine also di6- OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 87 (oveml an excellent fishing-bank, extending three degreen s^'(Mi brought to Fort Churchill by some of the Indian traders ami therefore this young officer, Ilearne by name, with two white companions and some of the Indians set out upon tlie journey with great expectations. ITe had not pro- ceeded more than two hundred miles when supplies began C^'^fHI ;'j9 ' '^1^ 88 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; to fail and Iho lixliaii assistants to leave him. Returuiuf^ to tlie fort he again started on his journey in February, 1770, with five Indians alone. At the end of tive hundred miles they be<;an to suffer great privations. Ilearne writes: "It was cither "all feastin-- or all famine. * • ♦ We have fasted, many times, two whole days and nights; twice, upward of three days, and once, near seven days, during which we tasted not a mouthful of anything except a few cranberries, water, scrai)s of old leather, and burnt bones." Finally arriving in latitude (53° 10', and about eleven de- grees west of Fort (Miurchill, he jiroposed to winter among a friendly tribe of Indians. Unfortunately breaking his quad- rant and notwithstanding the terrible sufferings already un- dergone, he retraced his Aveary course to the fort, refitted, and once more set out on the 7th of December. Arriving on the banks of one of the Oreat Slave Lake series, he constructed a ijinoe and descended what is now known as the Coppermine Kiver to its outlet, Coronaticm (Julf, into the Arctic Ocean, latitude ()8° 30'. "The Ocean," Ilearne says, "was full of islands and shoals as far as I could observe Avith a good telescope." A sad scene in connection with this brilliant journey was the TORTURE AND MAS.SACRE of about twenty unsuspecting Eskimos by his Indian allies, and for whom the Indians of those regions cherish an invet- erate hatred. Says Ilearne: "Finding all the Esquimaux quiet in their tents, they rushed forth from their ambuscade and fell on the poor unsusjjecting creatures, uuperceived till close to the eaves of their tents, when they soon began the bloody massacre, while I stood neuter in the rear." Ilearne was even unable to save the life of a young girl who had tied to him for i)rotection, wiiile an old w!), roncci-ninj;; the ' FATE OP THE OLD GOVERNOR, Jamos Knight whos,. expcditiou «c have previously „■«„. IKU e, Fr„,„ Ileatue's a.e,„mt we glean the f„ll„wing: n\hen the vessels arrived at this place it was verv ];U. a the fall („, ,71i„, an.l i„ getting th,™ into the haZth aiges rece,ve,l m,„.|, ,lan,ag,.; bnt „n being fairly in h . Ivnghsh began t„ build a hons... their nnnib^r at t ,at ti „e seenung to be about fifty. As soon as the i,.. pern,ittel. in 1 . •it b:''.r,;T " h"*' *"" >=»"'»— 1>-" the™ a„oth, . >.s.t, by wh eh time the nnn.ber of the Knglish was greatlv redueed, and hose that were living see„,e,l very nnh™ 1 v A,,.ord,ng to the aeeount given by the Esquin.aux th,.v we^ very bus.ly employed, but about what thev ,.ould not easi v ..■svnhe; probably in lengthening the long boat, for a a 'e distance fmm the house there was now (17(irt) Iving a great Muant.ty of oak y carpenters." The account goes on t„ r,.late that SICKNESS AND FAMINE made such havoc among th,. Knglish that by the summer of 1,21 but five r,.niai,.ed alive. .M,.anwhile, the Eskimos had supidied them, as they were able, with seal meat and whale's blubber. Finally, of the five who remaine,! alive, three ate so ravenously of raw whale's blubber after a pr.dongcl fast Hiey died. The other two lived a long , ar„.r this and frequently as,.en,Ied a high rock and looked long ami oaruestiv southward and ea.stwar,l as if expecting the arrival of a ship ihey would then sit down together and wee,, bitterlv' At length one of the two did and his companion, in ilb-o-in',; a grave for him, fell down e.xhanst,.,! and .lied also. The siruirs and othfr bones of these two men were then (ITfii)) Iving above ground, close to the house. « i"oic 90 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Ihe luHt lo (!i(. wiis, jKconiino' („ iiic JOskirnos, always workiug iron i„to impleiueutH lor tluMii. Ho wan probably the armorer, or smith. Lvlnjr j„st beneath the Arctic Circle in the territory con- tiguous to the northwestern portion of Hudson's liav, is a river-like iudentatiim. Willi its discovery, in 1742, by Cap- tain Middleton, the problem of the northwest passaj-e was (i, 1777, fonnd them in Tasn.ania, Ihen called \ an D.en.an's Land, and on IVbrnarv 12, in New /.■aland. March 2<)(h they were among the Cook Islands The season was now so far advancees south of the Tropic of Cancer, on Januarv IS 1 77S he discovered the c > , WORLD-RENOWNED HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO. These, in honor of John Montague, Earl of 'Jandwich the chief promoter of the expedition, he named the Sandwich Islands. Sailing thence he arrived, March 7th, off the coast of the New Albion of Drake, in latitude 44° .33', a point on the coast of Oregon, nearly oi)p()site Salem, t he capital of the State On Van Couver's Island, latitude 49° 3.7, he found the inhabitants clad m furs. Th,-y were fric^ndly, and shrewd in barter were acquainted with mm, but (^steemed bra-s more Iro-hiy .^^1 readily exchanged furs for the brass buttons on the nien's garments. Ten degrees farther north Cook found the inhabitants to resemble, both ,n language an' remain anionj; the Chook-cheos. Procei'dlno- northward, he reached latitude Kf 44', where he was stopped at the edj-e of the imp(>netrable and expansive ice field, forty feet in thickn«vss, and covered with A BLACK MASS OF WALRUSES as far as t he eye could reach. Captain Cook then returned to the Sandwich Islands, ar- riving at Hawaii X "'r,; ';:., r: ;. nrrirort: nMs.ni^ piop it>. Jh,. knij., arconipanicd by his two sohh PRECIPITATED A CONFLICT fuptain rm,k l,i„i.s,.If «,,„! n ,„ ' ".7 "^ "" * ' *'"' ""'agos. whi.-h only servo,] t,, .•.,', 1 1 ■'"'''' ""' """"' ^""*' J ^ivm lo i( n„(.i his assaihintN nioiv fnriop^ tjw. t-rew and nmrinos now fiml noon fiw. ... i ^'"'»i-«- Hie other on so elo.sely to the me t,' '''" ''''''''''^ '''''' H. * •, * -^ * '"^" i"^it hrearnis Were useh^^s T« llH' turnnnl four of the Englinh .vere killed ;Tust as Captain Cook was endeavorino- to reach the boat n iiadve was seen in dni] i.;.. i . T ^*^'i*-u me boat a -Ob.. St,.,,,., down f„.. the thin, .ru., ,2 I' f.e t I,:; I „u.n. 1, , ^^^^ ^^^ 'TO COMMAND ">t'n, he cared for them and oliHtH their e^tonm i 7 "" ' '"^'^ ebteem and couli- (.. si 94 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; tlence. His unselfishness secured in return the generous love of those whom he conunanded. Leaving Hawrii, Ca])tain Tlerke passed northward through Bering Strait to latitude 70° 33', where ice was encountered twenty miles lower down than on the year previous. Coast- ing southward along Kamchatka, Captain Clerke died and was buried on shore. Captain Cfore then assumed command and sailed to Canton, China, where the furs obtained from the Eskimos on the north- west coast of America two years before, were sold at great profit, some |10,000 being realized. This was tlie beginning of the fur trade of the Pacific. Captain (lore then sailed to Eng- land, arriving there October, 1780, after an absence of over four ye; rs. Step by step, that is, lake by lake and stream by stream, was the vast territory of the Hudson Bay Company explored by various trappers and traders. One (;f these, Alexander Mackeiizie, setting out from Lake Athabaska in June, 1789, with .1 party of Canadians and Indians DISCOVERED THE MACKENZIE RIVER and followed it to its outlet into the Arctic Ocean, latihide (>8° 50'. I 'rom having seen several whales sporting on the ice they named the island on wldch they were encamped Whale Lsland. When, on July 3, 1721, with forty Danish families, Hans Egede, a zealous missionary, arrived off the west coast of Greenland and established the settlement of Godthaab, in latitude 04°, the DANISH POSSESSION OF GREENLAND may be said to have begun. Notwithstanding Egede had spent his entire fortune and King Ferdinand TV. had assisted him with an annual contribution of .f200 and the missionary board with .|300 more, in his efforts to propagate the GOSPEL AMONG THE ESKIMOS, the Government, shortly after the death of Ferdinand, in 1730, aeroiis love rd through ucountered us. Coast- ? died and to Canton, I the north- d at great ^ginning of led to Eug- ice of over by stream, y explored Alex.ander rune, 1789, n, latitude on the ice ped Whale [lies, Hans it coast of dthaab, in ' had spent sisted him aary board id, in 17.30, OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 95 took measures to break up tho financially unprofitable colony, n 1.33 however, largely through the efforts of the renowned ( ount Zinzendorf, founder of the religions comn.unity known as the Moravians, King (Miristian VI. was led to take a re- newed interest ,n the colony and among other good dee returned to Denmark in 1735, where he died in 1758, agel seventy-two. During his sojourn in Greenland he had found the rums of hous(^s and churches, bespeaking the earlier pres- -u'e of the Norsemen, but he was unable to find amo^g tte Lsknnos even a tradition of their former occupancy J the raptain Loewenorn, who visited the east coast of Greenland in !<««), was 1 ot more successful. THIRTY ARCTIC VOYAGES wouhl seem quite enough for one man to make, but for the san.e man to have a son of precisely the same name to con- tinue the same perilous work in generally the same region without startling accident to either, is quit(^ "startliuL^' in 1 self. It certainly bespeaks not only good seamanship but also good luck. Such is the history of CAPTAINS WILLIAM SCORESBY, Senior and .lunior. The elder, at the age of thirty-one, made his hrs voyage to Greenland in 1791. I„ JSOO h, umdeTn "( Jm>nland Sea," latitude 81° 12', while still stretching into tl e unknown north >vas "a great <.penness, ov .sea o? water" 1 Ins was he "farthest m»rth" yet made at that time, and bv im- proving the .,pportunity of pushing on through the great""sea water, ' lu^ „dght have become known as the discoverer of the North Pole. Being on a whaling-voyage merelv he did not feel a liberty to do so. I„ 1817 he touched upon^he east n.ast of Greenland, above 70°, but did not kind, althouoh it was easy to have done so. On one of his later voyages, how- ever, he went ashore, and Scoresby Sound printed upon all ff 96 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; charts is iu honor of the event. He was a very successful whaling-master. On one voyage alone he is said to have ob- tained thirty-six whales. He died in 1829, at the age of sixty- nine. WILi^IAM SCORESBY, JR., beginning a seafaring life at the age of ten under the ex- perienced eye of his father, was in command of a whaler— the "Resolution"— just before attaining his majority. Wlu n off 8pitzbergen on one occasion, near Cape Mitre, he made the perilous ascent of a mountain overlooking the sea at the giddy height of 3,000 feet. When near the summit, the ridge was so narrow and the sides so precipitous that he was OBLIGED TO STRADDLE THE MOUNTAIN, as it were, and advance by working his hands and legs. On the east coast, he came upon large quantities of skulls and bones of foxes, seals, walruses, norwhales, and whales; also two Russian lodges, then recently inhabited, and the ruins of an older one. In the vast accumulation of rock debris at the base of the cliffs, the sea-birds, in great numbers had built their nests. A species of given fly was seen! Shrimps and medusae were abundant in the water alon- the coast. He also found two species of one of the sub-orde'rs of sea- weeds. From a DEAD Vi^HALE STRANDED on the coast he obtained |2,000 worth of oil and blubber, not- withstanding its decayed condition. In its bodv was an har- poon which Scoresby judged to have been driven into the huge creature by the fishermen at the mouth of the Elbe Es- caping, It had made its way through more than l,50n miles of water before dying. In 1822, Scoresby made his eighteenth, last, and most im- north of the region explored by his father. The name of SCORESBY'S LAND commemorates his geographical services in that region, while , , fl.) Wost Oi.tl..( Isliiiiil. (2.1 K.-^kiino J«-l(Mi-lik, IH'ii Lvon, lik.l«;{- Lyon, (ti.) A.iK k.i-liu .111(1 Hl^^V^te,0()m.na-Ly()Il. (Soo Chapter Vlll.) I ' '- i d ii ft: w ! iri 1 i- ■■ :' i*i£ Hut (1.) KskiiiiDs BuildiiiKHii 1k-1i. He was always a warm (>x- ])oneut of Arctic research and iiiainl allied that a voyage to the North Pole did not necessarily involve either great danger or difficulty. Every expedition, he urged, should go abundant- ly equipped, and be provided with sledges and boats to be OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 99 able to ovorcoino the dittK-ulty of travermug the alternation of holds (.t m- and lanes, or "soas," of water. Uis death oe- tarred in England, in 1857. THE NINETEENTH CENTURY opened with great interest in Arctic matters. The En-lish niiiiistiw, encouraged by the success of the «coresbvs, early resolved upon two geographical and scieutitic V(»vages' These conip.Ksed (,f two vessels each, were htted out^n iSlS ThJ liisl, under command of Captain David Buchan, was to search lor a northeast i)assage. After sailing dne north to Wpitzbergen, thence east along its north shore, both vessels, the "Dorothea" and "Trent " were caught in a terrible storm on July 30th, off the northwest coast The "Dorothea" was so greatly damaged by the ice that the hope of reaching Bering Strait was abandoned and Bnchan returned to r:ngland with both vessels. Lientenant, after- . wards Sir John Fianklin, was in command of the "Trent." The second expedition, consisting of the "Isabella" and the "Alexandria," nndei- command of (Viptain John Boss, were in- structed to sail direct to Baffin's Bay, and then, if possible, to penetrate the ice of the Arctic Ocean to Bering Strait Thus would the northwest passage be made to connect with those who shared in the disappointments at its results, Lieutenant W. E. Parry, althouji-h but twenty-nine years of aj^e, found himself at the head of another expedition in search of the NORTHWEST PASSAGE, a route of ocean-travel which he believed to be feasible and not to be despaired of finding till after a thorough exi)loration of Lancaster Sound. Accordingly on the 8d of July, 1811), we ' find his two vessels, the "Ileda" and "driper," within the Arc- tic Circle, and in almost constant struggle with the ice of Baf- fin's Bay till on the 29th they succeeded in getting into clear . water on the west side. Here the line struck bottom at a depth of 1,8(50 feet and the whales were very numerous, eighty- two having been counted in one day. On the 31st they arrived in Possession Bay, near the mouth of LANCASTER SOUND, where the tlag-stalf deposited by Koss in the previous year was visited. The num's tracks W(M'e still fresh in the sand and gravel and the flag-staff remained uninjured. An exploring l)arty sent three or four miles into the interior to search fin- possible timber returned reporting the region treeless. The party saw, however, many ground-plants thriving in moist places, a fox, a raven, a bee, ring-plovers, and snow-buntings. OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT ^^^ITE WORLD. 103 Proceeding, tl^ey were soon in the somewhat warmer waters of the soun.l. Sa.vs Parry: "It is n.ore easy to imagine than •lescnbe the almost breathless anxiety, which was now visible m every countenance, while as the breeze increase,! to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The mast-heads were ciwded by the officers and men during- the whole afterm,on- and an unconcerned observer, If any could have been uncon- cerned on such an occasion, wouhl have been amused by the eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's nest were received; all, however, hitherto favorable to our most sanguine hopes." August 5th the vessels were off Leopold Island, at the northeast corner of North Somerset Island, and in the north- west angle of a long channel of water running southward and named by Parry PRINCE REGENT'S INLET. Having met the ice at Leopold Island, Parry turned south, sading 120 miles, to the opening of the inlet into the wider ex- IKUise of water known as the Gulf of Boothia and extending .U)0 miles beyond in a southwesterly direction. Here he again Z %oV'^' ^Y ^'P' ^"'"^•' ^""^^'^"^^^ ^«° 29' west and lati- ude .2 13 north, on the east side of tli^o i„iet, located the arthest south point attained. In this region the compasses became sluggish and the great variations caused by local at- ractions rendered them useless. A quantity of 'iron-stone found on the shore attracte«' "Pon then,, tlnr|„.„ting an-an^v,.. .aents were looke,l after, an.l by utilising the stea.n b ile s and a syse,n of tnbing the ninetyfonr men were „„,, e I .omfortable ,n their q„a,.te,.s, so fa,-, as la-at an,l food ar,! .■.mee.-ned, as ,„„hl have b,.en ,l,.sire,l. I„ ,,,.,1,.,. t„ „„i„tai , a raternal feeling a.nong all on boa,.,l, the yonng ,.,„ , a " anowe,l no d,seri,ninati„n to be n,ad,. either as to „„.,,, tt! ".• nnalitv of food, b,.tw,.en the omeer^ „„d ,nen. J ,!^ ■ Inmself jo,ne,l heartily in varions plans set on f„„ o.^ i; purpose of passing away the long, dark .nonths. An,on" lliese wer,. a series of tl,eatri..al exhibitions, given everv tw," w"eks, a s,.|,ool, an,l the pnbli,.ati„n of a .lail (exeept S,,,^; n;-pnper ..ailed the "Winter Chroni.-le, oV'x,„.t'l, ^^:!^l During the day n<,rti.m of eaeh twenty.f.„,r ho„,.s, tl„. speet,on, bank,ng „p the ships with snow, walking f,r ex,.,^ xxroCt::''*-' '■"""^^' ■■""'"■■'"^' -"» - ■-■'"-"-■ 8 «l 110 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Ou January 12tli the tlierinometer sank to — 51°F in the open air. Tliis caused brandy to become AS THICK AS HONEY. Two days later tlie maximum cold was experienced, viz On February 3d, from the top of the main-mast, fifty-one feet above the sea, the sun was seen for the first time in ei-htv- four days. ^ ' On the 24th the observatory was nearly destroyed by fire John Smith, Parry's servant, in assisting Sergeant Martin t(i save the dipping-needle, had his hand so severely frozen that when taken on board by Mr. Edwards and his hands placed in water, ice immediately formed on the surface of the water bv the intense cold thus suddenly imparted to it. Later, it was made necessary to amputate four fingers of one hand and three of the other. March 8th more than one hundred bucketsful of ice, each containing from four to five gallons, were removed from the ships' sides, this being the condensation of the vapor of the men's breaths and from the victuals in four weeks' time. In order to assist in preventing the ravages of scurvy Parry grew in his own cabin a small garden of mustard and cress and distributed it among the men. April 30th the thermometer again touched the melting- point, the first time since September 12th. On the next day the midnight sun, the SUN THAT NEITHER SETS NOR RISES, was seen. On this day also, the rations, as a matter of pru- dence, were reduced to two-thirds of the stated allowance ex- cept in the matter of meat and sugar. The expedition had now been absent a year-half the time for which it was pro- visioned. The men were now set to cutting the ice from around the vessels. Tt was seven feet thick and so lieavv that when freed from it the ships immediately rose two feet 'in the OR, LIPB m THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. ' „i vme...^^TLe ,„o„ at thi. time .uttem, severely from t^e SNOW BLINDNESS, ii sensation similar tn timf /.„., i i. As „ re,„e,„. ZZ ' ' 1 7. tf '' T" "'' ''™' '" ^""^ ''J*"'- On \I-,v "Jti, .1 *'"''■ ™"'"'g ''"•»"» were used About this time the seurw moj.. u nrtncked one of the s^Uors uZ ^ ^PPearance, having lu.l.it(.featino.tl ef.rir' ' «PP^«i'ed, had been in the «iiiu^ (lie lat SKiniminirs or "«iiici. » #-, ^i "hiol, .,nlt meat La,l been boUed ' ' "' "" "'■'*"■ '" ■lime 1st Lieutenant Parrv r-mtnin t!„i,- ^^ •Messrs. Nia. and Keid, mid.Il^m™'^ Z t '^m^'.f r'^'' seamen and marines set out to Lplore the Nhnd o?' "' 'I'-'wu b.v tbe men were carried tbree «e,L. ■ • ''"■' for fuel, and two teiit« .,lt„ ! '" prciiisioiis, wood Thev traveled ;;;"^;'i!X?!,r'''''"''^ """« '"" """■'"- llM. northern are of the ,„I , '" "'"" '■"■<'""« '"»• ™ p.'Ho.lof tbe< av olttanTT; *''" ,•""""'' '"<> warn.er '1-Ks nud ptannigau" vtre met wUh^l ' "1" '""" "'"-• «nns killed. I,>om tbe ton" of (! r""™"" "'*' ''''""»■ masts of tbe "Heela" ■ L th,. . n ,' ' """'' "'' ^''''" ♦"« "■ H.e ,listan,.e. To t„ ,*■".'" """'" "'' '^"''" "'"^« sreat plain. Thev „ • . . 1',"'"' !" *""" -'■^*""*" " «n,,.l n,ade of sal^p po:.,;:::;;.';.te;; C? '■^'"'^ •■"■" ■' .»•'* "f „,,:-■""-- "■■" '"«•- -- fre„uentl, seen as tbe, jour- Captain Sabine became affected witb . u , •'"( was therefore ,Iraw„ „p„„ the c-,, , '*" "'"""'■""t i:;r;:^';rr-/>'--">^-;.i:tr::':y!;-^ "-». was an arm o;t :^ --r iii -r:r ;:r r i^ 112 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; M tauco was named after Captain Sabine, while otlier features Avere named after various members of tiie party. Tlmt tliere had been periods of open water was proven by the DISCOVERY OP FIR-WOOD, consisting- of a pole seven and a half feet long and three or four inches thick. It was found eighty yards inland and thirty feet above the level of the sea. It had probably jour- neyed from the opposite coast of Russia or Siberia, Befoi'e leaving the bay a stone cairn twelve feet high and as many feet in diameter was erected. In it was deposited a tin cylinder containing a record of their proceedings, besides several coins and naval buttons. Leaving the bay, th(» i)arty traveled southward, bearing to the west. Many ptarmigans were shot and afforded excellent additions to their daily rations. The tracks and horns of rein- deer were very numerous. Finally, a very long inlet was reached and named Liddon Gulf in honor of the commander of the "Oriper," while the two capes at its extremity were called lieechey and Ilopjmer, after lieutenants of the "liecla" and the "driper" resi)ectively. The shores of the gulf were high and precipitous. The cart was broken and the wheels were abandoned there, the other ])arts being cai ried along for fuel. In the center of the gulf and rising abruptly on its western side to a height of seven hundred feet was discovercMl a bairen island of sandstone three-fourths of a mile in length. It was named in honor of Mr. Hooper, the purser of the "Ilecla." Here were killed FOUR FAT GEESE and a great many animals seen. A fine valley was discovered and in it were many tracks Mackenzie, July it, lH',i(i- Back. (6.) Winter House of Eskim Drawn July VZ, I,v26-Hack. (Sec c;hai)tor XI.) lino, OR, LIFE IN THE OREAT WHITE WORLD. Hj ",.!%' ■'■'"",'.'"■ ''""'""'• '^"'"■^" "•'■"' I""'^^'" «■'"■ large T, V ", ," "••'"«'-'-"'">«»<>■'", «-l.i.'h is here abun.la,". J lie n ,«s l,a,l spread ..v.^r u.is Il„„r, a„,l appeared to be (he was a small separate loiiipartiiient foriiiinK a reeess i)f„i, ,.tin„ o..twar,. „.„i,.h ha., pr„„a.„, ,,..0 tl.ei,' ri:;. ', " a ,.w feet fr,„n .,„e of the huts was a sn.aller .-irele of sto at """•" !!" '•'" «■'! l".e, the ,„arks of fire beial s ill' I>eiceptible upou theni." " Vegetalioa on tl,,. islan.l „o,v la-an to flourish. Tin. savi. a« was „, blosson,, while the sorrel was far a,lvaa,-ed Of .s the „.e., ..athered a„d ate larj^e yuun.ities as a pre euti '' 01 tlie scurvy. * '^"ini- On the t.-ith Parry and his part.v ret„rne,l to the ships after "urney of about 18fl n.ih.s. Jleanwhile th,. ships' ee |-< .«.. busdv en,pl„,.ed in reloa.lin, ballast and rlst.-wi;: Iluntinf. ],arties were now sent out in every direction nr I..sher and two „,e„ eonsHtuted one of tlnj. lis kv ," e eourse of ten days, saw thirty de.., of whieh ,|, ' ,', b t two, hes,. be,n^. small and weighins when .Iressed abou my or SIX y poun.ls. They saw two wolves, severa " ""'1 ".any hares. Of the hares they killed but f u these "v..ra«,n. about seven and a half pounds in weigh . T, 'ev , , saw brent geese, king duok.s, long-tailed du.'ks, Ar, , nd 1 ".tings Although very wary, about a dozen ge,.se were shot. l"ifteen ptannigans were also killed About the 2r,th of .Tune the grass was fron, two to three ..e.sh,gh, while the sorrel was so abundant that it re , i.d l>..t a f,.w unnutes for the men to obtain enough for their din ..■.■■»ala,ls twi,.e a week. The .sorrel was eate^ with via eg sellrvT." "'^ '" '"'"'•' '•'■"'"■■"<■"' "» " preventive of th<: On .Tune .lOth, however, the death of William Seott. a b„aK «va,n s mate, occurred. Ue died of scurvy and a complica- 114 THE SEAUCII FOR THE NOUTH POLE; tioii of otlicr (limcuKioM. Ou (he 2(1 of Jul.v \w was buried on slM»re Willi ««i'eat respeit and soleniity. Over his LONELY GRAVE ' was erected a sandstone slab which had been suitably in- scribed ami enj^raved by Dr. Fisher. A funeral, however, was nol the only occasion f(U' relijrious observance ainc.jio' Hie otticers and men of this ('xpedition, for regularly every Sunday divine services were held and a serinon was read on both vessels. From the series of tichil observations made while at Winter Harbor it was found that (he maximum of rise and fall of (he tides was four feet and four inches. ()n July 14th a lar<>e cairn was erected on the most con- spicuous hill overlookino- (he sea and in it were deposited the usuil notices, coins, etc., and on a larj-v st(me was engraved a m)tice of (he winterino of the ships in the harbor. On the ;iOth the ice beoan („ niove from the bay in a body. August 1st the ships were clear of ice and sailing west- ward. On the ()th a landing was nuide, and during the fol- lowing night fourteen hares were killed, together with a num- ber of glaucous gulls, which were found with their y»'.> sa^s iio ijad ')" the 24tb a landing was mado an.l f„„r ont „f •, i, , . ■scvcu mask balls were killeil Ti„.v .„• , "' "' "Ix.at 3(i0 pounds Pro., ? ^'7 "><™K«1 when welghe,! ..ft.K.seanL:;r;„d :,.:;;;.^;;;';;^;<'^^^^ the. d^ not ndgrate fron. the is^i;::d d:;;-, \ rw"; r' """ turning to eZS' i?T' """"""'•'" "- i "M"n of «■• l"inl.eH„.nu.t w , : '■.'■" '"•" "' *'"' «'■«* «'-k in Sep- ;;^.«n.na:;:d;;;;:;:;r;;;::r::lt;^ ^"twi^:;;;-^------ .:;:'o;';;:^C'nr p.™'eede,i\;; Jan ■.",/■;; p'r''r'''r''''''"'''-^'-^ »h, and a fortnighVr:- tn^or™'"' ''■""''"''' *••■'"''- AKROWTAR. SNOW-BEATElt, I I 116 THMi SEAHCll I'Ull THE NOUTll I'OLE; CnArTEK VI. •FRANKLIN'S FIRST EXPEDITION. "Of obariirc but rpsiMMlablc imrcntajic!" Such is the car Hest account of Sir Joliu Fiaukliu, Horn in i.iiicolnshiic, lOuj-laud, iii 17S(>, but four years bc- f«>ro Scorcsby, Jr. and Williaiu 10. Tarry, lie, liivc tbcui, made tlicniost of his liuic and ros<* ra|)idly (o distinction. At first in- tended for the cliurch, ids fatlier tliouj-ii.t to cure him of a (h'- sire for a seafarin*;- life- by sending liim on lv entered the Koyal Xavy. Like Parry, he was amon^- those whom (ireal liritain sent to be (hrashed by the Americans in the war (»f LS12 and was wounded in the fatal , ATTACK ON NEW ORLEANS in 1HL5. Four years later we hear of him leadinj-' an expedi- tion for the i)uri)ose of "deternnninj« latitudes and lonj-itudes, and exploring the continent eastward fnmi the (VnuK'nuine Jiiver." Sailiiij; from London, in May, ISP), in a course of a few Aveeks the three ships under his command were off the coast of (Jreenland. Here the "Prince of Wales," in his immediate command, struck upon a reef and in spite of the utmost exer- tions of all on board and the ccmstant workin<> of the i>umps, the vessel, now separated from her consorts in a jj;ale, seemed doomed. Some women bound for the Hudson l?ay's ccdonies j^ave heroic assistance durino- tliis tryin.i» period and merited tli'> praise of the gallant Franklin, who says that their example OH. LIFE IN THL' (illEAT (lid nnich to stimulate the otToi-fs of slni-j.|(.. Hy (lu. tiuwly iiNc of „al WHITE WOULD. 117 mon in tlie iiii(>(|iial w Jis HO «r<'all.v red tired iiicoiiiin}- wafer aiul tju Hie damage was repaired Atigusi :iO(ii Frankl l'^'"" aud caiivaN ihc Imh •» Nize tliat Ilie pump.s ;;ained on tl ve.s.se! overt oolc lier eoni) le •anions and in aiiived at YORK FACTORY. ii'» and |)arty nias, who had", however l'romis(Ml not to disturb their more defenseless, vet detested' nr.ghb.n-s of the north. The otticers gladly took turns in main- (Mining thes(. wat<-lies and it was while Dr. Ki,-hards(Mi was P.'if(.nuing this .luty that the following incident occurred: One night, while <.ii the first watch, he had seated himself on a hill overhanging the river; his thoughts were poss'blv 'HTupied with far v, down to the tents." They, however, fell in with sn.all parties of Eskimos, with wlioni friendly relations were n'.aintained. Arri vino^ at the sea, distant fro,,, Foii En(,.rprise 334 miles, M,-. \\ pa,ty fron, (M,i,,ewyan, set ont\,u his retnn, o (.reat^ Slave Lake. He took with hi,,, dis,,atehes for Eno- laud and was a( con.panied by fonr Canadians. Jle was also « S(M« that th(^ India„s deposited a relay of provisions at Fort Ent(M-p,-,se for the party shonhl they retnrn that way Two conspicuous capes were named by Franklin in' honor of came and Mackenzie, while a river eniptyinj.^ into the sea tarther eastwai'd was called the RICHARDSON RIVER, after his co,npani(m. Dr. Kichardson. On July 21st the party embarked in two canoes with p.-o- v.s,ons for tjo weeks, and began their voyaj.e eastward upon ho A,-ctic Sea. On the 25tl, they doubled and na,neni>- t.me, but none of the ])aity felt thems<'dves stronj.' enouo-h to o-o after them, nor was there one of us who could have tired a <;un without restinj^- it." Althouoh Franklin, with a few miserable comi)anions, had arrived at the fort, he had b(HMi ]>receded there by the j»allant Mr. Back, who, leavinji' a note for Franklin informing' him of his intentions, pushed on toward the first tradin«>' estab- lishm<'nt, distant about 180 miles, hoi)in<» thence to send back SU<'C(»1'. It was while talkin<>' over the jjrosjiects of receiving; this ussistance that Franklin and those with him heard A^)ices, which, with }.Teat joy, they thou-ht were of Indians cominj to their relief. Bitter was their disappointment, however, when, instead, the emaciated frames of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn pirsonted themselves. Of course thcv were gladly received, and the single jsartridge which the self-sacrificing IIei)burn had shot that day aud brought to the lumse was generously shared with Franklin and his three companions. The v(»ices of all were noticed to be very sepulchral in tone, and Dr. Kichardson requested the men to .spc.ak nu re che(M'- fully, and he tried to comfort them further by the prospect OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 125 (»f Hepburn's boinn- ablo to kill ji cl liiid fired at scveriil near tlie I oor on the morrow, as th 'raver lioolc and Testanieni port lonse, and by reading from tl ey le siluati(»n. ions appi'ojniate to ihcii- M' next (la.v tlie Doetor and Ilcpb It se\t'ral deer, bnt wer( nnable to kill anv on urn succeeded in tirin< unsteadiness with which the.y liehl th i^reat weakness. iH'count of the eir ynns, owini-- to their J' some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and' wo of IIS relatives. In short, taking every circumstance (»f lis c(mduct into consideration, I came to ^he conclusi(,n that he would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunitv that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing s.) from his ignorance of his way to the fort, but that he would never suffer us to go thither in company with him. Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even an open attack nor could we by any device escape from him-our united .strength was far inferior to his-and, besides his gun, he was arniea with two pistols, an Indian bayonet and a knife. ''In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was some tripe-de-roche, he halted, and said he would -ather it while we went on, and that he would soon overtake us. "Hepburn and T were now left tog(>th(^r for the first time suice Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with several ! ;i 128 THE SEARCH FOR 'I'lHi: NORTH POLE; S iiijitcrial cii-oniisliinccs wliicli lie litnl obsci-vcd ctl" Mitlid' Im>I liivioi', and wliicli coiilii'iiuMl iiic in tliu opinion diat II ICl'C Avas no salcly foi- ns except in his ileal li, and he olTered to h th e UKstrninent <(f it. I (h'leiniined, ho\vev(>i-, as I was t noi- on«;hlv ronvinced ol' the necessity of snch a dreadlnl acl, h. take the winde responsibilily upon myself; and immediately upon Michel's coniinj; np, 1 put an END TO HIS LH^^E by shoolin*; him tlii-oniih th<> head witi own life been Ihreatened I would noi I 1 my i)istol. Had niv lave purchased il bv such a nu'asui'e, but I considered myself as enlinsted jil wilh I he i.rotection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his 1 altenlion ami devotedness, had so endeared himself I thai r felt more anxiety for his safety than for mv own. so unnanc o nic 'Michel had «>athered no tripe-de-roche, anack hareatest care, col- everythinji' iu their )Uiforlable. Other sni)pl ics e survivcu-s ol the i>arty wen once more at Fort ('hii)ewyan, where they remained until J of the followin*'' year, 1S22. uiic It will b<' remembered that ^[r. Rack haiili('s ai'tv wci'c mtil June pd Frank- S(^arcli of icident <>i' inion, Si. 1 p '' 11 lyfl 1 i ii 3 ' It , W '< HI . ' 1 .1 t 'r$\ 1' ' iti -Hifi iri ij'j i. am^-' OH. LIFE IN THE oitEAT wmTE WOULD. 129 (Icnnaiii, scoiii^r soino crows M(M's, Jii,|m,.,| (|,„( ,.jiii-i(.ii ,vas l''»llll(| tllf licjuls of pci'diod hij-h upon Home piiu in the vicinity, jind u)»oii .scanh >Miric(l in the i several (I<'cr, williouf c\ c.\claiin<'(l botli nici <•«' and snow. "()1 «'s or tononcs, half- I, iMcrciful (Jod, wc ai (' saved kuowinj- wlial liicy did <.r said, U ' invohinfaril.v, as (l»ey slio.dv liandi not , lor ver.v joy Amdher conii.aidon, Heanparianl. I (loni exlreine weai been f • , so j.reat was our huii.i.er." >een sent , Solomon I?elaii-er, who had I ol I (Tail , i«'p<»>'fin«' the dreadful stat s at Fort Enterprise, Mhereujxm Macl nelanoci' and St. (Jern assistance. Thev, how "I'^ed l)otli iJim to advance sjxvdily with him for over, stiihhornly [)ersisted in huterino 1, at which time jd»out the remnants of the deer till the .'{OH •iK'.v s,.t out aoain, and, comin- upht to a close tl )on in the encaniimicnt of A-kai- , whence supplies were sent \o Franklin linaiid his courajireous coiiipani 10 oroat sufferlims of Frank- .venrs, duriiin. which time thev had ons. After an absence cl' tin vo VmO niih>s, they arrived, in Julv 1S22 iK'complislKM^ a journev of Fact ory, di \or on Hivine Providence. J 130 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTEK VII. RUSSIAN EXPEDITIONS.— WRANGELL'S GREAT JOUR- NEYS IN SIBERIA Following the eff<»rts of the Laptjeff cousins in delineating a large pait of the Arctic ^'oast according to Bering's plans, SCHALAROPF. a merchant of Ya-kutsk, in ITaS, sailed from the Y'ana river in a ship built at his own expense, and succeeded in advancin" farther eastward than had Dmitri Lai)tjeff, viz., beyond the Raranoff Kocks, but short of Cape Chelagskoi. Making a sec- ond attempt, again he failed. In his third effort, in 17(>0, the crew refus(Ml to support him. Thrive yeai's later, SERGEANT AN-DRE-JEFP, a Cossack, who had been on the Indigirka, and had driven over the ice to and from the Bear Islands, reported that he had discovered in the estuary of the Kolyma, a group of inhab- ited islands, with the remains of a fort, and traces of a former large population. The next year, SCHALAROFF for the fourth time endeavored in vain to double Cape Chel- agskoi. On this journey he lost his life. Of him, says Wraii- gell, whose work in the same region we are about to consider, ''His unfortunate death (from starvation, it is said) is the more to ho lamented as he sacrificed his prop<'rty and life to a dis OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 131 interested aim, and united intelligence and energy in a remark- able degree." In this same year "ctiemaru ADMIRAL CHIT-CHA-GOFF made a fruitless attempt to sail round the Spitzbergen c^roup r t:;^!i^ ^-^"^ -' ^'"-^-- -^veyed tli^eo:^ Meamvhile, between the years 1745 and 17(58, the fur trad- ers, m their commerce with (^hina and Japan, lm■ "<" '" fl- ivorv of the n,an>. ', • ."'•; "« been rewarde,! for his discovery bv (V-irin-, a ..■.■me U wit,, the ..,,„«„., right to co,le,:t ivo y t JOSEPH BILLINGS, who had accompanied Captain C\)ok in i.i« louf '1<>«-U the Kolv,„a riyer with tw, vessel ,f:'''T' ""'"'"' -.ward a short distance be.vond „::„,;, •'o;:" oV;:';;':" fi„,,r 7 -'^-"'-^ 'n t>"»- as w(dl as in sabscinent onen- .. , he n,.t«l ,n the ser-ice of the Knssinn nav •. n Ce ; '. .n con„nand of „ second expedition h,. visit;,! t he aZ .n islands where observing the oppression of the natives •'.- n THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the sad condition of the dofoiisoless tribes h\ govornmontal inter]M)sitlon. In August, he endeavored to survey the (Miook- chee i)eninsuhi, but, owing to the hostility of tlie natives, engendered, doubtless, by long years of oi)i)ression by the Cos- sack and Russian adventurers, the effort was abortive. Says Saner, the historian of the voyage: "We passed three villages, and halted at a fourth for the night. The huts were dug under grouuil, covered with earth, of a s(iuare form, with a lireplace in (he middle, and four large stones nuuh' the hearth. We were obliged to treat with them for water, and for fuel to boil our food, and to i)ay for It immediatelv. Observing our good nature and want of power, they TOOK A LIKING TO THE BUTTONS on our coats and cut them olT without ceremony. The men were tall and stout, and the warrior had his legs and arms punctured. The women were well-uiade, and above the middle size; healthy in appearance, and by no means disagreeable in their i)ersons; their dress was a doe's skin with the hair on, and one garment covered their limbs and the whole body. They wore tlu^ir hair parted, and in two plaits, and hanging over each shoulder, their jirms and face being neatly punc- tured." THE ARCHIPELAGO OF NEW SIBERIA, dis<'overed in 1S0(; by Sir-a-wat-sky, and explored by ITeden- strom three years later, lies almost due north from the moulli of the Yana, a sh(>rt distance east of the Lena delta, between latitude 78° and 70° north, and longitude 135° and 150° easl. According to San-ni-kofi, Avho exidored the group in ISll, "the whole soil of the first of the Liakhov Islands a])pears to con- sist of bones and tusks of nuimmals." On the hills of KotJ-;;■« lat,... M... A„a„,.s f„„„„ it i,. „ „„„nat,.,l, i ;„ i' " "■""■I't"'*!' f"i'c.|<.n a.„I » „f ,|„. ,„ii.|„„„., ,yL "-Pl.;... TI„.,.,..f,„„.H,„ .,f tl„. sidn r,.„,„i„,.„, a„ .,'„", -"..t.;i ...r,„-(s „f „.„ ,„„„ „ ,,.„„„, , ,,„ ,.; ,„ V ™ ;' It «as „f a ,ln,.]< ..-ny ,.„l,„., ,.,„,.,.„, ,vitl, sl„„-,, ,.,„.|v ,.,.,"; ;v"»i, i.:-»,;i..s s„„„. ,„a,.k i,„i,.s ,„. ,,,i.s„,.s f,.,„„ ,,„!;.: " ,'f "" ' '■'""'"■• " "li"' b,.,ly ,.<.,„ai„i„o. „,,» talc,, t„ ""Mual s„ck..ts. In .so.., it was a i„al,.. Its chief measure- * 11 134 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; j iiients were: from forehoad to eud of mutilated tail, sixteen feet four inches; heij^ht to top of dorsal spine, nine feet four inches; lenj»th of tusks along curvature, nine feet six inches. Although the New Siberian Islands are now uninhabited, there were found upon them traces of former population. These were possibly of the traditional O-mo-ki now long ago vanished from even the nminland, and of vvdiom legend has it that "there were once more hearths of the O-mo-ki on the shore of the Kolyma than there are stars in the clear sky." Following the birth of the New Siberian Islands into the scientific and commercial worlds, the RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGE OP EXPLORATION uuder Lieutenant Otto Von Kot-ze-bue,son of the great German dramatist, was undertaken in 1815. This was owing to the public spirit and scientific zeal of Count Nicholas Ko-man-zoff, who had been made the Kussian Secretary of State in 1807. The talented Count selected as his comi)anion the poet and naturalist, Chamisso, and the physician and nati-ralist, Esch- holtz. In a vessel of only 180 tons burden and a crew of twentv- two men, the expedition sailed from IMymouth, England, in October, 1815, and, after rounding Cape Horn, arrived in tlic Baj' of Avacha, Kam-chat-ka, on the 17th of .'une, 181(). Ten days later they landed on St. Lawrence Island. Here the in- habitants, who had never before had intercourse with Euro- peans, received them with amusing yet seriously meant hos- pitality. Says Kotzebue: "So long as the naturalists wan- dered about the hills I staid with my acquaintances, who, when they found that I was the commander, invited me into their tents. Here a dirty skin was s])read on the floor, on Avhich I had to sit, and then they came in, one after the other, embraced me, rubbed their noses hard against mine, and fin- ished their caresses by spitting or their hands and then strik- ing me several times over the ..<'e. Although tlx'se proofs of friendship gave me very litlle pleasure, 1 bore all pati(Mit!y; the only thing I did to lighten their caresses somewhat, was OR, LIP^E IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 135 to distribute tobacco leaves. Tliese the natives received with great pleasure, but tlie.y wished iuiniediatelv to renew their l)roofs of friendship. Now I betook myself with speed to knives, scissors, and beads, and by distributing some, succeeded in averting a new attack. "But a still greater calamity awaited, when, in order to refresh me bodily, they brought forward a wooden tray with whale blubber. Nauseous as this food is to a European stom- ach, I boldly attacked the dish. This, along with n(Mv presents which I distributed, impressed the seal on the friendly rela- tions between us. After the imnil our hosts made arrange- ments for dancing and singing, which was accompanied on a little tambourine." The Europeans took their departure two days later, whereupon the natives killed a dog in plain view of them, perhaps as a parting sacrifice. Having passed through Bering Strait, the expedition ar- rived, on August 1st, within a broad bav beginning in lati- tii.le 06° 42; longitude 1(54° W 50". It received the name of Kotzebue Sound, and two weeks were spent in surveying it. To an island and a bay that were also discovered at this time were applied the names of the naturalists, Chamisso and Eschholtz, respectively. The scientists also examined A REMARKABLY UNIQUE ISLAND. of about 100 feet in elevation and having the appearance of a chalk cliff. Uiwn close observation, how<'ver, it Avas found to he a mass of ice covered with a hiyer of blue clav and turf- earth only six inches thick, but covered with luxuriant vege- tation. Speaking of this. Professor Nordenskiold says: "T*iie ice must have been several hundred thousand years old; for on its being melted a large number of bones and tu^ks of the mammoth appeared, from wliich we may draw the c,;.iclusion that the ice stratum was formed during the period in which the mammoth lived in these regions." Its latitude was ()t;° 15' .30". Leaving Kotzebue Sound on August IHth, the expedition sailed westward and beheld the Arctic Ocean, quite free from 136 THliJ SEARCH FOR TUB NORTH POLE; ice as far as the eye could mid., and mioia h-ivo attained what IS now known as Wrangcdl's Laud had thej but pushed that way. Instead, they directed their course southward and homeward, arriving' in Europe in 1818. _ Prompted by the results of the explorations of Andrejetf in 1Vrangell, with seven companions, was directed to survey the coast eastward from the Ko-ly-ma as far as rai>c Schelajiskoi, and thence to proci'cd northward to ascertain if an inhabited' country existed there, as had been asserted by the (^hook- chees and others; the second, under Lieutenant Anjou, with two companions, was to proceed northward for the sanu purpose. This division succeeded in surveving the New Hiber ian Islands, but failed to find any "inhabited country " No reports of this division were published, owinj.- to the ace' ental burning of the official papers. Of the celebrated "Wood Hill' of New Siberia, Lieutenant Anjou says: "Thev form a steep declivity twenty fathoms high, extending about five veist. (three miles) along the coast. In this bank, which is exposed to the sea, beams or trunks of trees are found, generally in an horizontal position, but with great irregularitv, fifty or more of them together, the largest being about ten inches in diameter. The Avood is not very hard, is friable, has a black color, and a slight gloss. When laid on the fire it does not burn with a flame, but glimmers, and emits a resinous odor." The expedition 4eft St. Petersburg April 4, 1820, and tn of operations on the lower Kolyma, in latitude (;8° 82', longitude 100' 35' east, a distance of (;,:]00 miles. The journey was MADE ON HORSEBACK in 224 days, thirty-six of which were spent at Irkutsk and OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WCRLD. 13, fortymue at Yakulsk. M.unj-HI a..,l two eo,npani„„» headed i.. cavalca^M Hi s place was the official headquarters of the reol<>„ an IS s.tua ed on the Kolynm, quite on the Arctic Hrce tonai,. the Om-adou, a branch of the Kolyn.a, began. Arriv- ng upon ,ts banks on the 31st, a two days' sledge journe vvith 0.S brought the explorers to Nishni Kolyn.sl^ where t^^^ ' mug winter was spent, in latitude 08° 32', longitude 100° 35' l.e town was founded in 1044. Its inhabitants were of n^-' |lmm height, and strong and vigorous. Uev. the river remains ..en over from the middle o'f September till the f.dh>wing June, here being only three months .f summer, during which Hiie the sun ivmains constantly above the horizon for fiftv- n ol^ ittle heat to the earth. Then it may be gazed upon with tlH> naked eye without serious inconvenience \\ith the inhabitants, spring begins when the returning sun is first seen at midday just above the southern horizon^ 138 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; I although at that time the thermometer is at —35° Fahrenheit at niftht. Autumn begins with the first freezing of the river. In June the tliermometer sometimes registers 72°, but before the eh)se of July it sinlis to about 40°. January gives a tem- perature of ()5° below zero, thus showing a range of 137° in live months. The winters are foggy, catarrh and ophthalmia resulting. Scurvy and other dangerous diseases are rare; upon the wliole, the climate is not unhealthful. On March 3, 1821, Wrangell set out for Cape Schelagskoi, the party traversing the intervening uninhabited coast witli nine dog sledges and drivers. Occasionally the Kussian hunt- ers descend upon it to the Baranoff liocks, and the (liook- chees, from the other side, to the Baranoff Kiver. The inter- vening moss-covered plains were inhabited by the unsubdued C;hook-ch('es with their vast herds of reindeer. The equipment of Wrangell's party consisted of the follow- ing principal articles: Keindeer-skin tent, with frame of ten poles and cooking utensils; a bear-skin apiece to lie on; double coverlet of reindeer skin for each pair; fur shirts; fur coats of double thickness; fur-lined boots; fur caps and glove«; some changes of linen; fire-arms; two chronometers; a seco-nds' watch; sextant and artificial horizon; spirit thermometer; three azimuth compasses, one having a prism; two telescopes and a measuring line. On the 5th of March Su-char-noi Island was reached at the mouth of the east branch of the K(dyma, in latitude 69° 31', , longitude 101° 44'. On the next morning the start was made for Baranoff Kocks, twenty-four miles distant. On the way, the w(K)den tower, erected by Captain Billings in 1739, at the mouth of the Kolyma, was passed. Arriving at the hut erected by the same officer, it was found in a good state of preserva- tion, but filled with snow and ice. The roof was accordinyly removed and the hut cleared in half an hour. It was foilnil to be large enough for but four men, and the other seven slept without, in the tent. On the 7th, having traveled about twenty-five miles, the Greater BaranoflF Rock was reached. The temperature at noon was — 20°F. These rocks had the sip- OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. ^ 139 poarame »f c.lu.sa. Hg,,,.™ „f men, boasts, aid tl„. num „f ^a.st buil,l„iK„. On (Ik. next ,lav, hvcnlv miles f„. 1 ,7 " 'lepot ..f |,r„visi„ns f,„- ||„. ,■,.(;,,, ti-i,, u- ,! , V ""' *-u..u, an.. „ve.. i, a, a sh„rt ms;::';; , :i;;;;: ^ .™ cU... passed ,vUI, ...eater ease. ,n ti.e aften,, ,f e l.ith they came „p„„ several t1,„ok.ei„.,. hnts <,f lar.h , r t! -H«l m the strait separating the Saba.h.i Islan.l of Sd a Ir f r an the .nau.iand. This was in h.titn.le (I!)" 49", h.ngitu h- 8" "north If it"!; '■'"*;'"" "-^' "« '"■• "« *"<' -y-' -"J -I-i., n ^r I "'r'" '"■'•"■""'"«">' "f i«'-hnn,n,o, k», whieh at hrst he suppose,! to be lan.l. Wi,hi„ two miles 1„; r,H„... .m.od Laptjers «and Cape, longitn.le l,,.-. At he e of it t I'r;-K"";''' ".■; *!" '*"• "■" '"»* "^■'">* -- f"">H-d, 1 . xth and last of the provision sledges was sent back, Wran-ell btl, the northwest point of Cape Sehelagskoi was rea.-hed I.o-hu„,moeks and ieeborgs wore ovorjw here visible. K vo .los beyond thoy found a quantity of driftwoo.1, „f whieh II .,• bmit a rousing flro and rofroshod thom.selves. Just wes ..then, was tho bold Sehelagskoi, towering to a height of .S.ono ' • ?r '""' P""" Wrangoll and ICosmiu, leaving oue ^.•dgo behind to await their return, proc,.ede, eastward n o der to test the theory of the English Admiral, Buruey wh ad ■on,<.,.tured that a .strait e..ist,.d between the nia . 1 „ "f Siberia and some undiseoveroil !an,l e,.ten,lin.. fro Cn S. ...lagskoi to liering's Strait. Ten luilos from thri ,' V he d.tmle was found to bo 70° 3', and sovon miles farthe Z I e ooast was soon for twenty-four miles trending in a sm t ™s e,y ,i e,i„n therefore oonfli.,iug with Burn y-: '«' - farthest point seen was nan,e,l Tape Kosmin, afti Wra" - "II » .onipanion. The limit roaehed was marked bv a en. ;;;<■;• «1 on a hlU m latltudo to- V, longitude ,71" 47' T i" l'..d travolod at an average rate of twenty miles a .lav-in aU rii 140 THR SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 241 miloa — sinco l('nvin«j Sucliarnoi Lsland. Th«» day's journoy was j>('ii('i'ally iradc in ciolif hours. Tho jilidinj.' of the shMl^cs was greatly facilitated by invert- ill}; tlic sicdp's at iiij»iit and pourinj'' water uj)()n the runners so as to form an ice-roatinj;' ujMm them, lliis custom doubt- less prevails anion" ajl polar hibes. In North (ire<'nlan" the (Miook-chees. Crosain*,^ Cliaun Bay to Sab-a-dei Island (m the next day, the party reached their fourth depot of provisions, and for- tunately, too, for th(\v had consumed all that they liad taken with them. I'lion these alone (he return trip was made to the Lower Kolyiiisk, after an absence of twenty-two days. The interven- ino' dejjots had been destroyed by wolverines and foxes, and no ]n'ovisions had been left at Su-char-noi Island, as Wranp'll had ordered. The round trip of (>47 miles was made at an aver aj^^e rate of tliirty-on(> miles a day for twenty-one days actually consumed in travelinj;'. On March :ilst Wranj-ell was rejoined by Ma-tinch-kin, who had l(»arned from the (1iook-che«^s, avIio.u he had visite pack-horses h.adeil ^vi eonnnclities tor tlie annual fail, arrived tliere Tliese -ouds e<»nsiste(l of tobaeeo, beads, hardware, and snuio..!,.,! iMIiiors, t<» be exehano,.d wit li tlie natives for the furs of anilnals l.ar of all the Russians was desirous of sendin- shii)s, If possible, by the northern sea.s, to brin- to (hem wares in fiK'iiter abundance and at less cost than they then i)aid, and also that he wished to ascertain whether or not the servants of tlie (^zar could rely upon a friendly reception by their various P<'oi»l«*s. Each proposition was heartilv assented to bv the tribal heads. <'liief Leuth, from the Ray of St. Lawrence, on the Pacific ' 143 THR HRARCir FOR THE NORTH POLE; lU'HH of il,o8o animals and tho dexterity of the drivers elicited the applause of the multitude. The prizes awarded swiv a beaver skin, a blue fox skin, and back and forth, the hands n.eanwhile beat inj* the air. At last, three conipetent persons performed the national of th(. Chook-chees. In this, ori,„aces, contortions, and ,|nnij)inj.s formed the principal attraction, till the artists were <'^ Ji), and naiiKMl it the FOUR-PILLAR ISLAND. ^:n;^:r^;;;i:;:fr;:;r::;^i:;™;:---r'"^ "•n("l.v-one in ciiruniforence .....1 f.. i I ' ^"^ ^' ' ^ '"«'» ««"<' \. , "'"nnuiKe, and lashionci sonn'uli.if m. '";::;; r':;.:,.';';';;;;r; r ' : '• •"■* "^'" '"'■* ^ ■'- tc(>n (> iiiid doj. Were so An nil tnoeii tl OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 145 .Icath-liko ^slillu.ss of the day beiny relieved by the thuudei- peals of crashiiij*- ice On the 2<)th the Xiimerous tracks of bca lonnd it, but iiothiu-' had been disturbed llie.v auai .V leached the deix.t left ou the ice-lii!|. rs and other animals were seen all On the next dav n rested and foun n-tu.-ni.,.. huut- cis, who Avounded but did not morninj; of the 2d, the '^ NOTES OF SOME LINNETS royaled then, as they app.oached the second island of the ii>eded di.vct to Xisl.ni Kolvmsk, arrivin<' '<'>v on the 10th of May, l.avi..o- b(..,. ab.sent thirt v-f„u,- davC !<' had Journeyed 700 n.iles without serious injurv to ...an" (loo- or provisions, ' ' Owins' to the s<-arcity of provisions at Xisln.i Kolvmsk, ^\n.noell n.ade special effo.-ts to secu.v supplies for hi.; n.,M. "".1 doos durino. the .season. Fishiuo- ,uu] hu..linu- parti<- ^v<-';<' sent out; Ma-tinch-kin and D,-. Ky-ber exph..-ed the Aninj; Tvosmin ti-avrrsed on hor.seback the des(>rt rcoiou be- tween the Chu-kot-chie and the lu-di-gir-ka rivers; KeTchet-ni. 146 TPIE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; kofl' oioctcd a small dwelling and a doiH)t of provisions at the mouth of the (iroator Bar-a-ni-cha Kiver; NL'-clio-i-osh-koll j^ave special attention to the securing of fish, while Wrangcll occupied a portion of his time determining some positions on the river, it being still blocked by ice. ^Vhile in the middle of the stream on the 27th of July, his tent took fire aners and instruments were not burned. A little later, Wraugell, through the advice of Dr. Kybcr, spent nearly seven weeks among the Ya-kuts living farther south along the Upper Kolyma. Here the repose as well as the kind treatment of the natives greatly invigorated him and he \yas relieved of his rheumatism. About the middle of October the entire party were again gathered at Nislini Kolymsk, where they spent the winter of 1S21-2. I<'our-fifths of the dogs used by the expedition having per- ished of an epidemic during the winter, the i)reparations for WRANGELL'S THIRD SLEDGE JOURNEY were begun under very discouraging circumstances. Only forty-tive of these indispensable animals of the ninety-six con- templated could be secured. The faithful (\)ssacks, however, owning the majority of the surviving dogs, came to the aid of the Russians, and, together with other inhabitants, fitted cmt tw(Mity skMlges, each with twelve dogs. At length, on the 2(;th of March, with twenty-four sledges, nineteen of which were burdened with provisions, and with nearly three hundred dogs, the start was made once more from Sucharnoi Island. Wrangell's trusty companions were as before— Ma-tinch-kin, Kosmin and Xe-cho-roff-sky. Dr. Kyber again very reluctantly remained behind owing to ill health. Eleven days later, on A])ril fith, the expedition arrived iit a point about ninety miles north, near latitude 71" 'MY, and eighteen miles east of rai)e Schelagskoi. From this point, de- l)ots having been established, the last of the provision sledges were sent back. OR, LIFE IN- THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 147 After tost journeys of three or four miles toward tbe north and northeast, m which no new hmd was discovered, the ex- pedition again started nortli on the 12th. Two days later EASTER SUNDAY was observed as a day of rest, the bright, mild w(>ather a(ldin<. to the enjoyment of the occasion. A few da vs later three mer? (.ne of them a sick driver, with one sledge and two dog teams' were sent back. The extra sledgi^ thus released was used in repairing the others. Wrangell also gave to the three men rcfurning the largest tent. Pushing on, the remaining five men, with three sledges reached, on April 21st, latitude 71° 52'— 8° 23' east of 'the (Jreater Baranoff Kocks, and near the limit of the shore-ice of Siberia. Ma-tinch-kin, however, with a lightly equii)pes and immense herds of reindeer. Owing to the soft nature of these plains great portions can be traversed only in winl<'r, when the surface is frozen. Their northern sections, however, contain a covering of snow throughout the year. In the plains of the Lower Kolyma the mosquitoes are so numerous that the reindeer are driven from the forests and made to fall victims to the hunters, who drive them into tlic river with dogs and then spear them. The horses of the natives are protected from the attacks of the mosquitoes by means of dy-mo-ku-ries, or smoke heaps. On the right bank of the river, near the sea, grass, wild- thyme, wormwood, the wild rose, and even the forgetmeiiot aboun of vv'ood. m 11 ^HUh Wm Wn ^ 11 1 Hi 1 IP 1 1 1 1^ ''; iJI i. ml 'T '■' H W { 150 THB SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; The holi had b«.n |„,,v!„usLv ,.,,.,,,„, „„ t|„. ,1,,,„„., „„,.."„.■:; ."■ '"« '""f "'•. "■' t'"' l-tK n,a,l,. ,l„. 1 sf„H ," : .|o"".o.V over the u-e of the Polar S™ d i,. Mn... da nvcd ,\t Cape Schc auskoi. Hen. wi« ,„..f ., i • , • cln.fofatnb,.ofCI,ook-,l,oes. '.^"-"ad^a,. or Once satisfied of the Wondlv intentions of the E,,,-,,,,,,,,,. tins nonjad r.de.. lik,.wise evine..,! a spirit of ann.-a i , ,' afonned 1,0 explorers (hat the ....«ion of ,l,o capo « ', imt prev,o,,slj- her,, dwelt ti„. Chodn.. 1 ,,,„.,;„.„ , ^V In. nan,esof which ,.ndn,-.. in. ■ap,...|„.h,,„|„i „„„ ,,„„„;' but who Ions a-o n,if:i.afe,l farther west ' (■ N„d . 1 here ,s a part of the coast betw,.,.,, n„. ,■ s, wl„.,',. f on, son,,, cl.ffs near the month of a river on.. ,„ ,d, , , ', c .ar snn,n,cr da.v, ,l..s,.,,v sn.,w...ovcre.l n,on„,ai„s at , .. .at .l.slnn,.e t,, he north, bat that it was i.npossibl.. to .s.... so f^ v".ter.' II,. also .sai,l that 1„. 11,„„,d„ ,hos,. „„„„„„i, , , If" ^""" '■^"■-i"' '""""•.V. to whi.-h, 1„. ha.l l„.,„.,i „i , ; (l.er sa.v, a ,.|,i,.f of his tribe had on.. „,i«,,,„.,, w l.or,le ,„ boat.,, bnt what l,n,l b,.,.,M„,. of , ^ „.as n • . . aflerwa,.,ls l,..a,.d. II,. had l,in,s..lf s,.cn ,.,.i„, .,,,,,. " I alMlants of that ,l,sfant ,n(r.v th.. w.„„„|i „r ., „.,,.,. ■ ;< . lun be,.n fonnd s,ra„,l,.,l ..„ „„ is,,,,,,, o„'T,, ■ S ,. ' I ' east, „.,(|, a slat,.-,,oint..d sp,.ar still in i,s bo.lv '" „(. ,1,'!!!T";,""""""'' •'"'""'" """ ""■ '■'■'■"'"'■'■ "n'l been ll.iek... by the nativ,.s of (1,,. .\l,.„(ia„ ,s|,„„,, „,,, ,, ' known to nsP .jnst snch sp,.a,-d,..ads ' ^ l>r.,..e..dini,M.astwa,.d fnnn rape Clndasjsk „ ,|,.. 22.1 th.. I".ty s.,.,n arrived at Cape Kosmin, in latitude 70' 1', lon^^imic- i < m 152 THK SEARCH FOR THR NORTH POLE- 171° 55', the const thciu c ciiHtward boin.assed at full sp< cd, tli. swiftness of tlM» teams and the lightness of tli(» sledges not, however, i)reventing them from repeatedly breaking through, the dogs as often and as quickly jerking them out as the keen sense of danger possessed by the animals incited them to great- er speed. Having crossed this trad of thin ice, their jHisition was determinetl to be in latitude 70" 20', and lonuitude 174 V\' On the next day, the od, tliev "covered twentv mil es. iiiiiin they he<-ame (h't ached on the ice, but in tl le morning succeeded in reaching the main l)ody by means of a pontoon-bridge of ire-blocks. From this point two sledges were sent back to the OR, LIFE ,N THE GUEAT •^^H^TE VVOHLD. 153 ;l«"l"". ^vl.il,. NVnu.ovii ;H]vnnml nnrdnvar,! u-itl. Il.o rouv.uu- ...Mlwo ()nn.isMav,llu.MI,inhui.ud,.7(r5;inn.i,ndMT^^^ --, ahou s.xty nnlos from h.ml, an oiM-n rhannH,' nbonl lim u.n s wKlo and ox«,>n.lino. oast ai..l west as Car as the cv ioul. 'V;Hl.. st(»pps extended then.selves in every direction in th(. field behind us. We could o() no farther." Settlno. out on the return, they arrived .m th(. niohf of the -.11 at the seco, d depot of provsions, tin.lin.o it and the two roUmuH] sledovs in «-ood <- .vicliliii}. fijif-iiKMils (if (lie li(.|il ji^jijiisl wlii'cli i( had I s»niiid«'d, iiiid safely ivjicju'd u )kw{ of i( of liniicr ciiiinicl on wliirli were si'vcral liiiiiiiiMicks, and hen' (lie d K'CII «'i'. (lUS IIIIIIKMJI- alciy ceased nniniiij«-, appamdl.v ediiscious that the (hit was passed. Nasi shoi eiiiiin on to the llist depot, th(>y soon mad iirer (' wav ((» <' and camped iindei- a ciilT near the month of the \V«'r|, lis was in hititii (I!)' 51', loni;ilii' 'M' on. iN'lille the other members were enjiaj-cd in hrinuinu a i'xamiiKMl and named the siiiijilies left at tlie depots, Wraiij-cll ('ap(> Kerknr-noi, in latitude (11)° 54', lonj>itiide 17 nu of the wav Soi lie jirovisions left at the second depot could not be recovered owiii<> to the breaking;' up of the ic( On the 141 h of Ai»ril, with jirovisi <»ns ninninjj; low, the party started eastward, hopinj,^ to meet Ma-tiiichkin, wl absent in the tundra east of the Werkoii. II lo was miles in that direction without nieetiiij;' him, they to turn auain to tli iviiio' ^one forty wer(» obliiiiMJ e west and make for the provisions cached at the (Ireater IJa-raii-i-cha, 200 miles distant. Aft in^i biitsix miles they joyfully met Ma-tincli-1 auceof su])plies. or travel- Ivin, withanabund- This energetic man had, in the nmrse of 1 a hut on the coast east of the Werl lis journev, found kon, which both he and Wranji-ell concIiide,)• \' s ucceeded in the donblino- of (^ip(» (^helajyskoi. \t this ]M.inl, hititndedJ) 4S', lon-itude 17(5° 10',''a depot established and eitfht slediics were al was retained for Mat inch-kin and four for \\ so sent back, three beinu' On the 20th Wranj ranuell. O0°42',lon'^tude^7(5°:?2', wl party reached Tape Yakan, latil iid( inii to somr of the riio(dv-cli >s, w {i'ell, howev«'r, failed td see it. Tl lence the "north countrv," accord- River was attained, and as sometimes visible, Wrj iree miles bevond, the Yak nil nine miles beyond it, the part party war OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. U,T, (•((IIIIK'llcd to luilt |)v I'CaiHoll of (I K' WJiniilli of the wcjillici' llHc thcv (.bMcnod (Ik. bones of „ uluMc Miuk npriohi, ,,,1.1 llicsc the Cliook-clu'CH iiifoniicd II KMii were the I'ciiiaiii.s of i('t<' (l\v«'llin<;' of ii small tnljc fonncil.v residing (| _ Forty miles fail licr cast, in latihide (;i)'^2S'. I 14, a lot of di'iflwood, most I v of fir and a otiuihide 177' Meanwliile, iMa-limli-kin mad pine, was met willi. cone iiMd-e sally on the north. tiikinj.' his depai'lnie on the L'lsl, with three sledj-vs and visions for fifteen davs a. Ilaviiijn crossed Knv pro- <'-^jin KMver, Wraiijicirs party halted en the next niorninj. seven and a half miles hev' 12', longitude 17!r l-T. Thirl iiloiif;- the eoast and in a direct lin«' a litlle south (d inived at th,. headland di Cook, iu 177S, namely, !ililiid(> ceil and a half miles farther <'ast, they SCO vered and named hy Captain CAPE NORTH. Mere they met a friendly tribe of Chocdv-cl wes. Its chief, l!:-tel, invited Wran;;(dl to his lent, and said: "There, lo(dv well at all lliose thinjus, take from them what you like, and oive me in return a j.;un, and jtowder and shot, as 1 am yery fctnd of hiint- in.U', and am sure 1 could use a uun better than the mountain Chook-chees, amon,i>' whom I once saw one, and shot with it." An exchanjic was accordingly ellected lor thirteen seals and a supply of lire-wood. On the 2r)th the party, with E-tel as j,niide, set out for liur- ney Island, iis named by Cook, but Kol-yu-chin as called by the natives. Having' traveled fifty miles they halted at the'huts of two Chook-chee families who were known to E-(el. Thirtv- oiie miles farther on, bey(md the E-kech-ta and Ani-.i>uv-iin •rivers, their ]»osifion Avas found to be in latiMide (;s° U)', bmni- tiide 182° 0'. Mere the tundra gave way to more elevated lands. On the 2(Uh the party traveled nearly tift^y miles to a small settlement on t he AVan-ka-rem KMver, near rap(> Wan-ka-rem, !%ed to dis<.outinue his Journey farthc.. east. O. H ^ ^i^ At T T^"' ''^' '^'"^'^ '''''^^"^^'" ascertained the^c. point attained by Captain Billings a third of a century pre- ju^a;i: <;;c.:^: x.'r •'^'"'"'^' '^^'"^^'^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^■*^*''^ ■- On the (Uh of May they arrived at the point whence M.- he t Id n ' ":^f ^•'•'-•' ^^^»^'"^ that the breaking-u^^ th ic e had prevented hnn from advancing moiv than ten mile cino .ir .Msiini Ivolvmsk on the 2'M Th.^^- 1 .. i 1 ™.,v...i«,. „„,. „,;„ , navH.;i ,,.-,i;;',- il;::' " ■ """"■" -'■ M -tinch-kin had reached the p^^ce nenHv .. «... 1 vej ( |,,,„„ Bnj. About the mi,ldl,, „f j,,,,. ,„. ,, „, ,„. j,^. 1^1 :ii OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD 157 ....i-litr";;;;::;;'::,;:;;:';-;:;^:;-'^ "■-'- •■- Tho Avork of AVi-niiocH i,, Vowiu.,.,. w:i • Ever on fl.o lo„ko„j f,,,. ||„. j ^ infp,.p«(« . , • ;i:;rS£;:r"sr:;;::f :^''=::» BELTED ICKBEUU. 11 168 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER Vlll. PARRY'S SECOND VOYAGE. Pleased with the reiiiarkablo success of Parry's first voy- age by way of Lancaster Sound, the admiralty were not long in again fitting him out for a second time to search for the northwest passage. Parry's own plans were to look for this in the vicinity of Kepulse Bay, the northwesterumost arm of Koe's \Velcome, and his instructions were given accordingly. Lieutenant Lyon, distinguished for his travels in Northe.n Africa, was placed second in command of the ex^dition, which, with many of the officers who had accompanied Parry on the previous voyage, sailed in May, 1821, on board the "Fury" and tlie "IFeda," each of about 375 tons burden and carrying a total comi)lement of 118 men. On the 2d of July both vessels were in heavv ice and anion-- huge icebergs off Kesolution Island, at the entrance to Hud- son's Strait. One of those mountains of the sea towered above the surface to a height of 258 feet, and, allowing one-seventli as the proportion visible, extended 1,548 feet beneath tlic water, thus having a total length of nearly (me-third of a mile Fifty-four of them were visibk at one time fnun the mast- head. On the 14th they sighted three strange vessels, which proved to belong to the Hudson's Bay (\)mi)anv. One of them was the "Lord Wellington," having on board KiO emigrant Hollanders, bound for Loni Selkirk's estate on the Red River Says Commander Lyon, of the *'Hecla": "While nearing these vessels we observed the SETTI.ERS WALTZING ON DECK. for above two hours, t he men in old-fashi,»ned gray jackets, and the women wearing hmg-eared mobcaps, like those used bv the OR, lifp: in thk great white world. , 159 Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and tlie tlier mometer was at tlie freedng-polnt, it may be supposed that this bull, al vero fresco, afforded us mucli amusement." Sever-il marriages bad already taken place on board and more wcu'v pending. On July 21st a buge BEAR WEIGHING SIXTEEN HUNDRED pounds was killed. It measured, from tip of snout to inser- ium of tail, eight feet eight inches. Its flesh was found to be palatable, but, after taking from it a tub of blubber the carcass was thrown overboanl and soon attracted two 'wal- ruses to It. On tlK^ same day the vessels were visite— .i,eir The''!::,;::!: ;',:;-;:,.;.";;;"'i- .-"«-«. ^ With favo,.i„, „,n,is. iiu m- noes, 1 arry <)l)sorvo( , woro ('«tvf»r»,i „;ti. ii "(I and slielLs, ^^l„Io on many of thorn ^yoiv n.ass,>s „f ,,„.i n::;r;;;rs':r;;;;?ri:r:;;:;;- ■— -iii;:^ "Mb, of Who,,, i, „,,s obse,.ve,l that ilLy lore' '" "'■'■'■ "''■' BIRD-SKFN SHIRTS """""""""""•^ -in,.xttothebo„y. It,,,,..,, Hiffs ,,,„.„ ■^Ig^BMbw^ Ifi2 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; f(vt high and caves in o,vat bods „f j.„(mss wore seen. In one «»f h(^se caverns Parry an cairns were foun(> .iO oS , or nearly a mile north of the Arctic (^irclo. \ lor,.. Hme y''''!'''^' '' '^^'^•'^'^-'^ l>y Captain Lyon as being at that time literally COVERED WITH YOUNG EIDER DUCKS Who were taking their Hrst lessons in swin.ming. ()„ fhc^ day following was begun the careful examination of (100 mihs of coast-line northward and including Hoss' I?av. Much gan.e was fonnd and it was "enacted that for the purpose of econo- mizing the ships' provisions, all deer or musk-oxen kille.l should be served out in li<.u of the usual allowance of meal. I ares ducks and other birds were not at this tinu^ to be in- '•liKled. As an encouragement to sportsmen, the bead, legs OR. LIFE -IN THE OREAT WHITE WORLD. I63 ...Hi Offal (,f the larooi. auhnals wv.. Ak.k,.„.|c.,., ,1„. .M,.lvill.. |.,.,„M,s„h, Tliis party of Mskinu.s uurnborod «ixtj souls, and w(mv liv- iu« m hv. huts m..„t,, ,ro.u.l .nth.I, of suow aud I.., „ , ai. fron. .Ih- sinps. ^Vft.. .nvpi„. „.,>uo.h two low pa: - s ges having oach its aivlu.l do^.-wav, w. <.anH. to a su.all d,- •liar apartuuMH, of which tU. roof was a plit was admitted into these curious edifices by a cir- cular window of ice, neatly fitted into the roof of each a])ar( nient." In rebuilding- their hnts they did so by erecting' the new ones around and over the old ones, which they removed after the new walls were in position. Duriui*- the winter more than ONE HUNDRED FOXES were secured, and yet there seemed to be no lessenino- of their PUJid)ors about the ships, while a ]>nck of wolves paid them i.-.-«'.w** oil. Lli h IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. len fivnuoni visits, ou Olio octasiou <0i iiu HHiUihidiiious In tlw ii .JO M- i« Hc from which (o dr vn- iw water in Nkclt'louH <»f ain' lals let d ;*'';MHTf(HiJvinasinoh.,,ij,.|,,.,,,,, ,,.,^, j,j In Mai eh li Eyi, own (o (licin toi- (luK ,„ii-, Ivinios removed lo (j lose P<.seof,-al" 'July 2d both vessels sailed careful aanied the IJarrow I "'iralty, anact .V examined as they pro-icssed iiver in honor of || norti ,var « > stream, In it Iniil Jvejiromoter of Arctic H' secretary of the ad- were seen two beautiful Kli, ami, hij.herup, twoinij voyajics, was disci •vered. '•ascades, ninety and tifteen feet liattl in^- constantly with I )ressivecalai;icts prominent he yond it were found xlland, which was named ( '<''»vy ice, the shii)s passed 'billed and eaten. On Julv Hit I laroe herds of walru ajx' IVnrhvn. ]U s('s,s(mie of which Avei-i I, on at the (Ml trail aini>ment of ovei IGLOOLHv ISLAND, «•<' o vessels heavilv, so that tl (he space of several d,. ^vith five men, h>ft tln^ s'l o i/.A i 16G THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Tbe first half of September was spent in vain by Captains Parry and Lyon and Lieutenants Keid and Palmer, each in com- mand of a party, endeavoring to find u passage to the west. The strait varied in width from eight to forty miles and was blocked with ice extending between the many islands Avhich filled it from Ig-loo-lik on the east to Cape luglefield on the west. Abandoning further efforts for that year. Parry returned to the vicinity of Igloolik Island and established WINTER QUARTERS, ' where they were again greeted by tiieir old frieuds, the Es- kimos. Here an uneventful season Avas passed, although the weather was unusually severe. The sun was absent forty-.two days. ■ , The men took exercise on a space enclosed by high snow Avails. About the 1st of May heavy, Avell-defim^d clouds, gorgeously colored, put in an anomalous appearance, for those regions. On the 5th provisi(-ns for one year were removed from the "Ilecla" to the "Fury," Parry having decided to send the "Hecla" to England with the opening of the season and to endeavor to find a passage northAvard in he "Fury" alone, to Lancaster Sound or Prince Regent's Inlet. In June Captain Lyon endeavored to explore Ak-koo-lee and especially its Avestern coast. He crossed the Fury and Hecla Strait and gained some slight information regarding Cockburn Island, as it is supposed to be from accounts de- rived from the natives. In the course of the same mouth the vessels were visited by parties of Eskimos from Too-noonk, the Pond's Inlet region on the west coast of Baffin's Bay. Their sleds Avere made of portions of the WRECKS OF TWO WHALING-VESSELS, which they said had gone to pieces some time before. It was afterwards ascertained that they were ships from Leith and I OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 167 Hull, Which had been abandoned in August, 1821. Lieutenant Hoppner endeavored to reach the scene of the disaster by crossing over from Cockburn Island, but owing to the dilatori- ness of the Eskimo guides he was obliged to return to the ships. On July 19th a fishing party returned with G40 pounds of salmon and ninety-five pounds of deer meat. The lar"est fish, when dressed, weighed eight and one-half pounds " In length they measured from twenty to twenty-six inches. After having been three hundred nineteen days in their winter-quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of Auoust Parry having determined to return to England with both^yes- sels, owing to the appearance of scurvy among the men For the next thirty-flve days they were beset by the ice and driven hopelessly about for 300 miles. Of that time the first twelve days in September was a period of horrid suspense. Says Captain Lyon: "Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding in such shoal water that the whole body of the ice n.ust have slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin expresses himself, 'God, who is greater than either ice or tide, always deliv- ered us!'" On the 23d of September, 1823, the ships were once more tossing in the Atlantic, and arrived safely in the Thames in the latter part of the following month. Of the 118 officers and irien, 113 of them returned in good health after having passed two winters in the ice, the average temperature of the air being several degrees below zero. BAKOMETEU OF FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION, Found by C. F. Hall, on King William Land, in 186% ■M'm 168 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CIIAPTEK IX. VOYAGES OF SABINE AND LYON. The Spitzbergeii route, essayed in 1823 by Captains Habinc au(l Clavering, nia.v, iu one sense, be said to have been an elfoil to reach the North Pole. While the primary idea of the expedition was the investioa- tion of the magnetic phenomena within the Arctic Circle'^it combined geographical research as well. ' Captain Edward Sabine having completed a series of ob- servations to determine the configuration of the earth's .ur- tuce by means of vibration of the pendulum in dill'ereut lati- tudes from the equator to the Arctic Circle, and also investiga- ions pertaining to terrestrial magnetism, was desirous of cou- 1 luuing the same in latitudes nearer the pole. His cause wa« espoused by that eminent scientist, SIR HUMPHREY DAVY, Of the Koyal Society, and the government accordinglv placed at his disposal the "Griper," Captain Clavering comnuuiding. Sailing in May, 1823, Captain Sabine was landed with his in- struments at Hammerfest, on Whale Island, where for three weeks he carried on his observations somewhat beyond the lOth degree of north latitude. Sailing thence on the 23d of June the "Cxriper," a week later, arrived off the northwest coast of Spitzbergen, in about the 80th degree of latitud.. Here, on the SEVEN SISTER ISLANDS, Sabine carried on his pendulum observations, while Claverin.- proceeded northward. After reachino- Latitude 80^ 20' he was stopped by the ice, and, returning to the Seven Sister Islands picked up Captain Sabine and sailed thence to the east coast OK. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 169 Of (Jreenhmd, wbero, in al,„„t latitude 75° were discovered a s.„al. group of i»Ia„ds wln.l,, l,y rea»ou of Captain SabZ', lliere „,ak,ug a series of observatious, were uanled the PENDULUM ISLANDS. A, few miles farther north, in latitude 75°, C'laveriuK dis- I'overed aud named Shannon Islands. Pron, his vZtlZ, a..■. his flr.st expedition, of which Captain Sabiue'was the a, tronomer, then but thirtytwo vears of a-^e .he^^—Jn"' *i"' "*"'"',•'■" """"^ "•itl' "captain Sabine than .he « as again put in rea.liness for Arctic ice; and, in June 1S24 sailed under command of Captain O. P. Lyon who com' manded the "Ilecla" during the second Parry elp;mi.m ^^ the purpose of ..oinpleting the survey of P""""". f'"" MELVILLE PENINSULA, 11.0 adjoininc, straits, and the shores of Arctic America as f,r as Franklin's turning-point in 1821. So poor were the sailing qualities of this gun-brio- as had been demonstrated by Parry on his first voyage th^t t w^s not tni the close of August that Lyon arrivedTthe 'loler: 170 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; entrance to Sir Thomas Hoe's Welcome, where a terrific gale was encountered, before which the "Gripei*" was driven hope- lessly until she was finally checked in her mad career by four anchors dropped in a bay of five and a half fathoms of water. It was momentarily expected that the vessel would go to pieces and the boats were therefore loaded with supplies. Two of these were almost sure to be destroyed as soon as low- ered and LOTS WERE CAST for the purpose of insuring the safety of those who should draw the more reliable boats. The unfortunate ones accepted their fate with heroic magnanimity. Heavy seas swept the decks, while for three nights neither oflScers nor crew had slept. Each man brought his bag on deck and dressed in his warmest clothing. Says Lyon: "And now that everything in our power had been done I called all hands aft, and to a merciful God offered prayers for our preservation. I thanked all for their excellent conduct, and cautioned them, as we should in all probability soon ap- pear before our Maker, to enter His presence as men, resigned to their fate. "We then all sat down in groups, and sheltere'"»^' '" •'"■!■• ""1>H»- "inumt vet iiii„l, luKonuily was ii,.,-es«arv iu devisinir anv pl.n,^sufW..ie„tl, nevel to break tl,e «e„;,.a, enmu'Cs "It is hard to eonceivc any one thinj? more like another than I «•" «-.nters passed in the higher latitmles of the „oi„r re« ons e«e,.t when variety happens to be affonie-l by inter™ e >v^U s,,n,e branch of the whole fa,,,;,,, ,„ „ an W er . fter winter natnre here assnn.es an aspect so „ nch X that .■ursory observation ean scarcely ,l,.t -ct a sini l" featn e ;.f variety. The winter of more temperate <• at , ^n.l evJn ;'i;.:r:hicir,r"'"'* '^■''"''' '^ "^'•»™'""">- ~«" ^n thaw which at once gives variety and -omparative clieerfnl "ess to the prospect. But here, when ..n..e tlu eart , is t ' ".■Hi, «1I .s dreary monotonons whiteness, not ,ne e ly o d''v« "■■ weeks, but for more than a half of a year to. tl . Wltn I'ver way the eye is turned, it meets a pict Pe calcnMted t napress upon the min.l an i.lea of inanimate stil n'ss '^f 1 t "". lonless torpor with which onr feelings have nSn. -o'^ Kcnial ; of anything, in short, but life. In The my si en " theit IS a deadness with which n i.„n,n,. ^ ^ ^ i^umue there -seeping. The pres^cr f^l'^^^'' fLr"" ""* "' 'Ireary solitude of this wintry desertThic' ev " ' •"" "'" mals have for a while forsaken " ' "" '"""" »"'• Happily, Lieutenant Iloppner hit upon the idea of hoi,lino ft MASK BALLS. ^rotr^ndrriitr''"" -■••'^ *"""■"■'• ••>""-'-' ♦" l"'»rtily and Tns wrL: '" "'"^l""™"- ^-ry Joined "It is impossible that any idea could have nroved „■„,.„ Imppy, or more exactly suited to on.. «ir„„i' . . * • '"■".■, m..!.. <'ontilMlill<> to NDOIul liiu fur,, ii. INTO STRIPS OF BLEEDINO FLESH ;:;ix nr::"::';:;;.;'""^;:;:' ."-■ r-" >''"■ --o^ .„ ,. »l>"t.s. But three Ari^H, '■'"♦»'■""« *«„ ,„• three br„«n was thi,.k and soft am T" '"""' """""'■ '""" ""• "< ""■«' '--"in" an.. « fer:;„r ;': ;:;: ,t.r::';' -'f "™"- •^" ■'"i.n ^'ottre,,, ji:,,,:" / ' t ■^,;.': .-'trj;;. -^ <■ .-^ •'"-- «n.i drifted with it fo,rt* d ; ^ zr' "7^ "•'■ *"" ■•- "'•■-.V'tostra il^th ,:::'S *"■•'"'' '-:-- -■"' *l- l"«h tide. Both shins nldrif, ■■" •'"'^"'" '""■«' "" ^'i"' 'i" they ground: *'■;;: ii Hlioif, and a .scroiid lime ^oth'ii olT. \'ari<»iiH atlcmplM wcic now made to I'cpaii* licr, until, on tli(> 21st, a <;al<' drove lior, tor a third tinu', upon (he siiorc. Nor*' Parry nductantly abandoned lici', and says: "I']v('iy endeavor ol ours to nr in readiness for re- crossing; the Atlantic. While here, John l*aj;e, a seaman from the "Fury," died and was buried with due respect. Puttinj; to sea on August .'»lst, the "Ilecla" was in liaffin's Bay by Sej)- tembei- 7th. Il(>re from thirty to fcuty iceberg's at least 2t)0 feet in heijiht were sij;hted on its eastern side in latitude l't° .'50'. The "ilecla" continued toward England by way of the Orkney Islands and ari'ived in the Thames on tho 20th of Oc- tober, but two men havinj; been lost during tho entire voyuj;v (►f both vessels. SNOW VILLAUE. Turf and Stone Huts.-^Upernavik. (See pages i«t, lOO, i-tc.) N .•1. ! 1 wKmiammM m ■ i -■-■-rnm [h" " « Willi lii-il • -^'■■* :A— *» t^ i/'ht>-i^ yL:. (See Chaptor XXIX.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WUrtLD, 177 OHAPTEU XL FRANKLIN'S SECOND EXPEDITION AND THE \-OYAG£ OF THE "IJLOSSOM." ii„ hT ^''-.^fr ^^"^''^ "<■« b'^eamo the wa(ch«„rU» of Frank- THE DYING WIFE of Franklin had presented him with a sni-ill ^ill- fln . • , sta ed, whence the entire party pushed on to Fort 0.1^^ on the west end of Lake Vthih.L.n v • • u ^'"I*^^^3«"i, middle of Tnlv Tt ot tl.e hrst areh, preceded by a bright flame, from whUbemZ .mted coruscations of a pale straw color. Another sfrnX nco IS movement occurred at both extremities of *" "t.l a complete segn.ent was formed of waveriug pe r^en i ! "lar radn. As soon as the arch was complete the iTght l^^^nl great .y increased, and the prismatic ..olors, wl,i,.h1,ad beCe l« en famt, now shone forth in a brilliant mann,.r. The str, " ..»t colors Which were also the outside ones, wer< pi, k S' gieen, on the green side pnrpl,. and pink, al of wh cl we ^ as imperceptibly blended as in the rainbow. The • r , wa he color nearest the .enith. This magniti.-ent disp1 I as ed a few minutes; an,l the light ha.l nearly vanished win t, northeast quarter sent forth a vigorous'displa; and i ear t the same time a .-orresponding cornscatioi emanatedZn he opposite extremity. The western foot of the arch t en » "1-'"K the coast wer,. th, pol.s erect,.d wherever these people have their abode Moan •v!.ile, Els,.n an,l Smyth ha.l a,lvan,.e,l n„rth,.astwar,l m .1, n the 22,1 their prog.vss was sto„pe,l by a long point "f land, named by lieechey, I'oint Kari-ow. They were then ■.ii i 182 THK SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; but 14 training of the Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin ar^mnd Is neck, a single trace of the same material attac-hed l" «ses and passing, between his le,s, and one rein fastened like a halter about his neck, this intelligent and docile anima 184 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; is perfectly under the eonimand of an experienced driver, and performs ASTONISHING JOURNEYS over the softest snow. VVlien the rein is thrown over on the olT side of the auinial, he immediately sets of. at a full trot, ami stops short the instant it is thrown back to the near side. Shakin}^ the rein over his back is the only whip that is re- quired. In a short time after setting off they appear to be gaspinj^ for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven too fast at first, they recover, and then j»o on without difficulty. The quantity of clean moss considered reciuisite for each uaj»e of tlu> never-diHcouraj^cd l*arry: "Travelinji; by nij^jit, and slee|)injn' by day, so completely inverted the natural order of thinj;s that it was v(l, and soft state of 1 he ice over which we traveled; and secondly, the drifting; of the whole body of ice in a sojitherly direction. "My amended plan is to fto out with a single ship to Hpitz- berj»('n, just as we did in the 'Ilecla,' but not so early in the season; the object for that year belnj; nun-ely to find secure winter (juarters as far north as possible. For this purpose it Avould only be necessary to reach Ilakluyt's Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample leisure for examininj; the more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, where, in all probability, a secure nook mij^ht be found for the ship. » * ♦ The winter might be usefully employed in various preparations for the journey, as well as in mag- netic, astronomical, and meteorological observations, of high interest in that latitude. I propose that the expedition should leave the ship in the course of the mouth of April, when the ice would i)resent one hard and unbroken surface, over which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult to make good thirty miles per day, without any exposure to wet, and prob- ably without snow-blindness. At this season, too, the ice Avould probably be stationary, and t'lus the two great ditlicul- ties which we formerly had to em ,uuter would be entirely obviated. It might form a part of the plan to push out sup- plies previously, to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on the Avay, so as to commence the journey comparatively light; and as the intention would be to complete the enter- prise in the course of the month of May, before any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of the surface had taken place, similar supplies might be sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on their return." OR. LIFF3 FN THE (iUIflAT WIIITK WORLD. igo This pl„„, H sc.MnH to M.o writ,.,- <.f Hh-ho pnp.s, Ih a lmkmI <»"• ""; 'I IH to IM. ,■..,..<,„., n.at tlu. loUM .X,HM.UMH.. <,f tl.e .•norget (• Parry n.uNI not have vxvvuiva \t. IMm advaiunl vcarH, (loi.bth.sH, aloiio pivvoutcd hJH nndcHakii.n if TIiIh j^allant kmyht of (ho 8ea and ice wui'vlvcd till 185u. GAME OF CUP AND BALL. 13 190 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CIIAPTEIJ XIII. SECOND VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN ROSS.— DISCOVERY Ol' THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. Deeply cliagiiiUMl at tlic failure of his efforts iu 1818, Caj)- tain John IJoss, the pioneer of Arctic exploration iu the nine- teenth century, vainly endeavored to induce the government to send him again on a polar voyage. Notwithstanding the iguomiuy then attaching to his professional name, for teu years he persevered and spent !|ir),()(H) of his own fortune in the prosecution of his «)bject. He had fought with bravery and skill during the war with the French, from 1703-1815, and wus determined to win laurels as an Arctic explorer as well. Finally, he found an able supporter in the person of Felix Booth, a man of wealth and i)ublic spirit. Through him, Koss was enabled to purchase a side-wheel steamer of 150 tons burden and to provision it for three years. The generosity of Booth deserves double emphasis from the fact that, at his own re(]uest, the Parlianu-ntary reward of 1100,000 for the discovery of the Northwest Passage was re- voked, that he might not be charged with mercenary motives. Thus did Boss anticipate the use of steam in Arctic navi- gation, this being the first time that a trial Avas nuule of 11 for that purpose, and although the uuichinery in Boss' vessel was soon found to be unserviceable it but served to illustrate the utility of steam with jn'oper application. The expedition numbered twenty-eight men and sailed on board the "Victory," May 23, 1829. Previous to her departure the ship was VISITED BY MANY NOTABLES. among them being Louis Philippe, the future king of the French. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 19 1 Arriving Off the coast of Greenlnn.l about the middle of June the "^ ictory" p"t in at the Danish settlement of llol- steinberg where damaged spars and n^y;iu^ were repai^-ed. ^^ain sailing on the 20th, the sea was found clear in Baffin's Bay Lancaster Sound, and well down into Prince Keoent's Inlet. Here, on August 12th, a formidable barrier of ice was <'.u-ountered. On the next day the place where the "Furv" h,lies for three years from (late, besides leaving a considerable quantity for possible fu- ture navigators. By the end of September, 300 miles of heivtofore undis- oovered coast had been explored. A landing having been effected, the territory was named BOOTHIA FELIX. ^vitll Bellot Strait on the north, the (Julf of Boothia on the cast, and Franklin Strait on the northwest. Mary Jones' Bay having been discovered on the east coast <»f this new territory, here, in Felix Harbor, WINTER-QUARTERS were established on September 17, 1S20. TlKw were soon frozen in and n'othrug of unusual interest y a very large party of Eskimos. They were of neater ai.- IK'arame than those who had visited Parry farther south and )vm' famihar with the geography (,f the regi<,n in a verv •atH .g.ble u.annc.r. The women displayed a higher degre'e of nilelhgence m this respect than the men. As Parrv met his Is-loo-l.k, so Boss f drawn by ei.uht do.ns, for the purpose of niakin.u exph)rations farther west. Cross- \n^ the ice on a strait, whicli lias since been called in liis honor, younjj;' Hoss discovered Matty Island, aud, still farther westward, ' KING WILLIAM'S LAND, reachin};' its northernmost point on May 2J>th. This he named Cape Felix, and frf Sealskin Tents or '■iM-picks." OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 193 I., til., cnsning »,„.i„o. „f jsgi „ „„„,bp,. „, p, ,,„.i„„ „.. "■'■"' »"'>■ mi.l .,f th,. Ks.|ui,uanx-. Ka.l it b,.en •, ;■"■""," r '"T" "-^ "'"' '" •'' !'«■ I ""■ -t -luit.. su . la """1.1 Have .1,M,.. mor.. Il,a„ satisfy our ambi i.ui und..r tl, I'liRs of that ..x.-iii,,^, ,iay." Thus, ou III,, ,„, of .T„i„; ,s;!|, i„ hiiiiud,. -0- .T ir n,„i ..u.,tude fl.r 4(r 4.r w..s,, .ll,, ,„e Hriii^h establish i .d,? I»N" t" a |.r..at an.I imporiaiil dis,.overv, aiH.wlial Miieri ■■™lni. tl,.. a..,.o,ints and per,.,.ivin« tl .. enthusia™ .n 194 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; cousins on the otlior sldo of tho Atlantic in all such cnlci' prises, ran restrain wishinj; lor the STARS AND STRIPES still }»reater triumphs? On this journey Hoss was absent t\venty-ei}»ht days. Once more, on August 2Sth, the "Victory" stctod clear of ice but was unable to make good more than four miles of navi- gation when, on September 27tli, she Avas completely beset. Thus, In pping to take a sketch of this niel- ancli(dy desert, render<'d more melancholy by the solitary, abandoned, helpless home of our past years, tixed in immov- able ice till t'me should ])erform «m her his usual work." On July 1st the entire party reached Fury Beach, and, erectiuir a large tent, stvled it "Somerset House." A month later they had crossed Prince Kegent's Inlet and arrived i'.t the entrance to Lancaster Sound, whicli they found so blocked with ice that they were com])elled to return to "SonuMset House." This they reached on October 9th, and here sjjcnt a fourth winter. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 193 The font wns i-cndcrcd more eeiiifoihible by nieanH of an •Mubankineiit of snow and an addllional stove. Althouj-h theiv was a reduction of ti)e rej.nlar allowance of preserved meats, there was ph'nt.y of flour, suj.ar, soups, and vej-etables. Dnriu},^ the winter Mr. Thomas, the carpenter, and two others lish comi)anions who sounht admission on the shij); for, had they not been mourned iis dead these two years by their friends in Enj-land? \\'hen, however, the honest whalers were i-onvinced of the truthfulness of their story, the ri^jring was (piickly manned in their honor, and with three rousin^ cheers Captain Koss and party were welcomed on board the "Isabella." What followed is vividly described by IJoss himself: "Thoiij;h we had not been supported by our names and character's we shov.ld not llic less have claimed from charity the attention that we re- ceived; for never were seen a more MISERABLE SET OF WRETCHES. T'nshaven, since I know not when, dirty, dressed in the rags of wild beasts, and starved to the very bones, our gaunt au.HMnbor(.fllu.j..vat MarLcod fa.nil.v, Isl,. of L.nvis, ; .id wbh, or (Jreat Fish, now called Back iii\'er. Forests, swan.p.s, porta-vs, streams, lakel(4s, rapids and nisrades .,n,,edcd their pro^.-ess until, on An^ist 27th, from .' nl top Back saw the wide expanse of water now known as Lake Aylnier. Tw(. days later thn^o of Back's n.en reached Ins lake by means of a canc.e, while Back searchein'i(MiHly HlianMl with the Htran};('rH. "The ;;r('at rliicl"," sjiid Akail«li(), "InistH in lis, and it \h bcllcr llial (cii Indians sliould pcrlsii tlian that one white man shouhl lU'iiHli tlirongh our ncj^ligcncc and breach of faith." On February 14, 18:U, Macl^i'od moved liis fjimily iiear«'r the huntinj^-j^roiindH, where six of tlie natives nejir liim died of starvation, liis own family barely escaping; the same fate. April 2r)th a messenjicr arrived at Fort Iteliance annoiinr- inp: the safe arrival of ('ai»tain Koss and i)arty in Fn<;land. Says Itaek: "In the fulness of our hearts we assembled t<»- yether and humbly OFFERED UP OUR THANKS to that merciful Providence, who, in the beautiful lanj^uajic of Scrii)tnre hath said: 'Mine own will 1 brin<;' ajj,ain, as 1 did some time from the deeps of the sea.' The thou^j'hts of so wondei'ful a preservation overjxiwered for a time the common occurrences of life. We had just sat down to breakfast, bul our apix'tites were gone, and the day was passed in a feverish state of €»xcitement." Captain Hack now als he had it fitted with runnel's, as Parry had done in 1827. On the 14th, with six do«;s drawinj;- the boat-sledge, he took a fresh start and came upon a cache of ool September Hth, after an absence of nearly two years and seven months. A month later Dr. King and others arriv<»('sti(ni (if the (}('<)nT;»i)hical Society, lie was aj^aln sent out IN THE "TERROR." in wliicli he was to proceed to Itepulse Bay, or the Wajicr River, and thence to make an overland jonrney to the bottom of Prince IJegent's Inlet and to send other j)arties to Fiirv and Ilecla Strait, and, if possible, to Franklin's Point Turn- again. Arriving at Salisbury Island, in the northern part of Hud- son's Bay, on the 14th of August 1830, the vessel was soon frozen in. From December to March, inclusive, the "Terror" driftatli was hushed. A stream which daslKMl down upon us over the brow of the precipice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming a terrific shower- bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would have becMi instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's consummate skill, the boat shot safely through those jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com- rades behind. They had profited by the ])eril we incurred and kept without the treacherous rock in time." July 2!)th the party reached Cai)e Harrow, thence pushing northeastward. Cape Flinders, in latitude (;S° 15', longitude 109° 15' west, on Kent Peninsula, was attaiiuMl on August 9th. Here, three miles from Franklin's Point Turnagain, they re- mained till, on the 20th, Simpson, with seven men and pro- visions for ten days, set out on a foot Journey. Traveling eastward, on the 23d Simpson ascended a height from which he viewed a wave-worn sea, and beyond it a vast extent of territory ui)on which he bestowed the name of the young queen-sovereign of England, Victoria. Its eastern ex- tremity was called Cape Pelly, in honor of the governor of the Hudson's Bay Territcrv. Having surveyed one hundred forty miles of coast line <'astward of Point Tnrnagain, Simpson returned to Fort Con- fidence, where the party arrived on September 1 1( h. I lore tlu' winter was spent. 204 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Id June, 1839, after having spent a week in exploring Ricli- ardson's Kiver, Simpson again descended to the sea, and aftci- doubling Cape Alexander at the eastern extremity of Deasc Strait, in latitude (18° 55' and longitude 10(;° 15', on July 28tli he entered a large gulf or bay, still unnamed, and traced its coast line for 500 or 000 miles to a narrow channel separating King William's Land from the continent, and which has been called in his lumor SimpKon's Strait. Proceeding, on the 25th, the journey's end was reached near ("ape Ilerschel. The spot was marked with a cairn and documents were deposited. It stood upon Boothia Isthmus, ninety miles south of the North Magnetic Pole as determined by lioss eight years previous. The east coast of Victoria Land was then examined for 150 miles, after which the ])arty returned to Fort Confidence, hav- ing completed a boat voyage of 1,000 miles in four months. Simpson was murdered in the course of the following year by one of his Indian gUi les when on his return to England. He was but thirty-six years of age and had bsen awarded the Founder's (Jold Medal. INNUIT HEAIWJKNAMKNT. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 203 CHAPTER XV. MIDDENDORF IN THE TAIMUR PENINSULA. Of indomitable determination and untiring in his zeal for science, Middendorf deserves a place of honor for his expedition to the Taimur Peninsula. Commissioned by the Academy of Natural Sciences of St. Petersburg, he, in company with a Danish forester, and a single servant, proceeded in 1848 to a ])()int on the Yen-i-sa-i, just below Tn-ru-chausk, in latitude 61°, longitude 90° 30' east. Here he was joined by a topographer, three ( 'ossacks, and some Tun-gu-si guides. The measles broke out among the niombers of the party at this time and it became necessary to transjjort the patients on sledge-ambulances having boxes lined with skins. Leaving the forest of the Yen-i-se-i, on Aju'il l.'itli, the party struck the open tun-dras and journeyed toward the Cha-tau- j;a IMver. The inhabitants in its region being aftLicted like- wise with measles, Middendorf then directed his course al- most due north toward the Taimur liiver. Leaving Brandt to prosecute meteorological work and to gather specimens of the fauna and flora of the wgious, on the l!)th of May, with the topographer, two Cossacks, an inter- jtreter, a boat of twelve feet keel, sixty-eight rein mean temperature of the air Avas still below tlie freezing-point of water, the snow had vanished from the sunnv side «)t the Taimur. Torrents of water coursed the hillsides and swelled the river forty feet above its winter level and swept the ice to the sea. About the middle of August, in light underclothes and barefooted, Middendorf hunted butterflies in latitude 74° 15' the temi,erature of the air being ($8°, but near the ground Hc/ while at a spot exposed to the northeast wind it was tivJ degrees below freezing— at 27°. Moisture was great. In May thick snow-fogs prevailed • in June vapor-fogs, turning » 'Jis loiii' <»)iiij»ani()iis boin.r --;;*:z:;':,^;:;;;;:t;,;:,:::^'''''''''- --- ™«^.i,eecl that I „ul, l,a„ ,„,„,,f to n,;nXZ "" I WAS DOOMED. ami as good as numbered with the (l,.i,i i,„i * ase did not forsalie me." -'^^ "'•''■ '"'"•• Witli reason almost unseated, tliree iHr-, u<. , flash of thought ,.a„,e to hin,. He w tes /^C, ' "■""""- "■ ' -"•■<• 'P"-irv and ,Ir n '''"taMMng a ^u,.ahe„ in me; m, t,,oug,r;!.: ;, ;:,;;::^ «oon I fei, ia,„ a profound s,eep-how ,on: it' ,:;:;:;; l'';;^ ' ': iHBII ii 20S TMR SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POhE; nol— -bul o!i jiwakcnino- T felt like aiiotlicr iiian, and my broast was filled willr'«-i'a(ihi(l('. ApiM'lilc n'ttinicd with rccovcrv and I was induced (deal Ualiicrand hircli-bark, wl «an foil una (cly canic within n^acli «d" niv KMi a i)lai'nii- ;nn. Ilavin<> llnh obtained some food for the jonrney, I rescdved, tlionoji still very l'e<>ble, to s<>l out and se(>k the i)i'ovisions we ha'ed their |)osilion, I at (nice all<'red my route to join them. We ap- proached eacdi other, and — jud,ij,(' of my delight — it Avas Tris- cliun, the Samoyed chieftain wlnnn I had jireviously assisted in the prevailing; <'pidemic, and who now, guided by one of my companions, had set out with three sled<>('s to assist .ic. I"ja<;er to serve his benefactoi, the j^rateful sava<;"e had imule his icindeer wander without foo«l over a space of on<' lunulred tifty versts (ei<;hly-sev<'n miles) where no moss .i;rew." Mid'(mI I heir \V(* iip- vas Tiis- assislcd y one (tf ssist ,('. ad iiiiidc huiulicd )yo(ls in ']»t('nib('i' I tcrmiii- xdiit had IS iuad{> iiortliciii a o if) OR. LIFE IN THE UIIEAT WHITE WOULD. 20i) CJIAPTEJJ XVI. FATEFUL VOYAGE OF FRANKLIN AND EXPEDFOON OI- RAE. Franklin's last cxjK'.lilion, nndoitakcn in 1845 111 (inicr. So advanced in a i), conies now iillliongh the adniiralfv .liv was tlu' oallanl Sir Join, thai was i«lad to avail it, self of 1 (|xi)erieuce, Lord IIaddinj;ton was loth to let 1 find a j>ood excuse for not lett lis rich liiii <««). "I luiiihl elhno record which informs nie that y aid the peer. aid the \h 'No, no. iu«' .vou no, Sir John, i,, tin. ou are sixty years old," Further objection \a my Lord," said Franklin, "I am onl as useless. y fifty-nine." With his jienuant tlyini,' fnmi the "F ri'ozier, the conij)anion of V of Sir John lio.ss in his second rebm iii'iy in his last thr s," and Captai n 'ee voyaj-cs and Terror," the craz xj)edition, commandino tin a vov y vessel in which (^ai)tain Rack h ij-e into the north part of Hudson's 1? lid essaved lin set sail in 3Iay, LS4 Frovisioned for thn liiindred men, th iiy in 183(5, Frank ■(' years, the vessels had I, tne very cream of the navv on board one A provision ship accomj)anied tl nid, fnmi which i)oint it returned to Kulhm] lem as far as Disco, (Jreen- liist tender fai-ewell uk the <)th of July FrankI iind daughter will not b be =iJios of the depaitin<;' exjd in wrote. "I hop,, that niv d iirinii' the On (' -ers. <'ar Avife the time tliev h; iinxious if we should not return I jcft, even after the s( ive fixed ui)on. Without su >y ocess in our ob- soine other channel crews justifv it «'ono winter, we should wish to t Iiealth of our should the state of our pi rv ■ovisions and tin <•'!• written follows: V portion of the very last let- by this same brave and affectionate man is as 210 TUB SEAR(ni I^OR THK NORTH POLE; "U iiak' Fi«h l«lau(l, liny of Disc,), ll(b of July, l8ir> "My Dour Hintor- * » • The appearaiico, dress ai,re<>a(i()ii than we have. May the seed sown fall upon o(„h1 ot,„„i,i^ .„„i bring forth fruit abundandy (o (Jod's honor and alorv. "Ever your affectionate brodier, "John Franklin." No wonder, (hen, that Franklin was always surrounded by a host of ever faithful comimnions in all his undertakini-s, aiMl that, while he thus writes to his sister, a fellow-otticer, Lieutenant Fairholme, of the "Erebus," should also write con- cerning- him: "I need hardly tell you how much we are all d(di,«;hted with our captain, lie has, I am sure, won not only the respect, but the love of every person on board by his amia- ble manner and kindneK-s to all; and his influence is always employed for some .i>o■ ".. a,..io„ .,, ti,.. ,;,;;: ;;;: LIKE THUNDER '''"o,;";;;;:'!,;:;;".:;'"; « «' ""• ■■■"<■ <-' -i^Hi >nn..s a„ i,.,,,,.. : ;::';;"'"n:r'' r :;-- --- - ' '"-" 'PI. , .- . . • ' r\\on(y-t<) ir veal's ni-ev-innu llic natives lia.l iieiHierseen nor lieai',1 ,f nnv.l'.i.. Fi'anklin. niaiiioi aiiUliMiK ('(incei-ning '■'■"".iuK fi'on, these ,,e,„,l,. that i, was ,',i,lv about fortv . ' 0, he i-eerosseil the htke-dotteil isthmus auil be. an .t <'n(\' to prepare for "ij^an at WINTER-QUARTERS - r|o,.,i,se Ra.v. In IH.s Joni'iie.v bo ba,i been assiste,,,,- the Tiiere „ei„. „„ ^.,,a in the region, August was .pent in 212 THE SKAUCII FOR THE NOUTH POLE; biiildin;,^ a (lwolIlnjr.pl,,,.,. ,,f „ton(\ It was twenty feet hing, loiiilccii \Wi wi(k', and eiglK U'vi liij-li, l\w roof being „f „i|.' tlolli jiiid Nkln, tilt' masts and oaivs Ht-rving as rafters, while the door was parelinient skin. Deer abounded, an hiin- fat <(f two seals which were shot suj)plied oil for the lamps. Hy means of nets set under the ice a few mor«' salmon were caught. Uy the middl(> of March fcdiowing, thedeer again appeared, chasing the fleeing night. April nth. Dr. Hae, with three men, two Eskimo interpret- ers, and a sled drawn by four dogs, started to explore the west- ern shore of Committee Hay. In the course of the latter |)art of the month he arrived on the isthmus joining Hoothia with the land lying to the south. This isthmus was found to be but one mile wide. Returning, four Eskimos were met, and from them liae's exhausted party obtained food for both men and resort to the expedient of tightening their belts to allay the pangs of hunger. (lame, however, was soon secuj'ed, the boats made ready, and on the 12th of August the party sailed for Fort (^hurchill, where they arrived on the 31st. For his services the Hudson's Bay Company rewarded Dr. Kae with a gift of |2,000. OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 213 'A^ CnAPTEU XVII. RICHARDSON'S SEARCH FOR FRAXKIJN. Whon, nftor an absence of uvav\y tlnvo yours, no intdli- icncc ua.M iv,Tiv(Ml •oiucnnnjr Hw wlirn.alx.uls of Franklin |( was (lot.nnim.l to ,l..s,,af<.h s.anhino ^wiWH to iUvov dif- l^'iyi loralituvs, viz., to L-nH-astcr Sonnd, (!.<. Ma.iau.zio liivc'- In ..xculion „f ihis „,.,.at plan, «u ...xiM.lii ,„|,., ,,„„. "'^""1 "fir. John l(i,.|.„-,ls„„, (l„. bn,v,. an,l .skillful ,„,n. ]«"""» "f I'vmMiu in l,i» fanmus ,..x,„.,!i,ion .,f l«l!..ai, im l.ivcipdol llaivli 2.'-,, 1848. ' «a»_tlu..rf<,n. ,„.,.,.n, ntiv ,,naliH..,l „.,. th,- ,„.,.a, ovnlan.l I>.'. -loin, liaP, wh.. h„,I boen a ,.,.»i,l,.„( „f liniisl, America !'•■ fif ....n ,v,.a,.H, an.l wl,„ was ,.f ,nu,l, pra.n.al ,vis,lo„ " I'l'i"'il X ml in coiMinaud. " i-'i"in, «.is ..a,. ( ha npla.n, th,. St. l.uv,-,.,,,-,. Itiv,.,- the Oroat i.a ; ', :■"';';.'"••< '"'<<■" """ «'>•«"■- "f ifitisi, A„„.,.i,.a t , ; a,.k.M,z„. R,v<.,- th,. ,l,.,ta „f whi,.h ,va» ,.,.a,.h«l .,„ h ■ ! .■s,lk H.«K,v,.n h,n> h.v In., dvi,,;; wif... i„ ,S2(!, atnl ,livi,l,.,l "■mniand procwdm^r w,.»t toivard H(.|i„.,'„ striit tl„. ..ti,..,. Tho Eskimos ,.n,.o„ntoro,l at that tin,,. w,.ro asain mot wit'l, I.; the namber of abont t,vo h„„.„.,.rt, b„t, stt-an^olv thov , ' r""l ov,.r UavinR before seen or hear,] ,f aa v wli": ,..;,,, THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; boats. To all appearances they had forgotten the conflict with Franklin on the occasion of his arrive] among them, and doubtless, unpleasant recollections of it caused their denial. ' Secretly depositing a case of pemmican in a pit dug ten feet from the best-grown tree on the point, besides leaving a bottle containing the memorandum of their journey and other infor- mation, liichardson proceeded along the coast hoping to be able to cross over to Wollaston Land, near the mouth of the C(>ppermine. At Baillie's Islands, near Cape Bathurst, Eskimos were again met and bartered with. They were here at this season t'Ji' the purpose of capturing the black whale. More pemmican was now buried, and in order to conceal the location of the pit contHining it, the turf was carefully replaced, drift timber burned upon the spot, and a SIGNAL-POLE painted red and w^hite erected at a distance of ten feet from the cache. Upon the pole were hung several articles of value as an inducement to the Eskimos not to remove the pole itself. The effect was as desired, for upon leaving the place. Dr. Rich- ardson had the satisfaction of perceiving some of the Eskimos strip the pole of its gifts, leaving the signal undisturbed. Rounding Cape Bathurst, the shore sometimes rose to the height of 250 feet. The bituminous shale at Point Trail, in latitude 70° 19', ignited evidently by the natives, had been burned and the banks thus destroyed and crumbletl presented a singular appearance. Near Cape Parry, an eminence 500 feet high and surmount- ing all the surrounding region, another case of pemmican and a letter were deposited, the spot being marked with limestones painted red. Traces of Eskimos were still found. Near Cape Kendall, on August 12th, the sea became so much obstructed by ice that it became necessary to abandon all but one portable boat, the tent, hatchets, and some of the cooking utensils to the Eskimos. Advancing now on foot through deep snow, the? veary progress was expedited bv the _ OR. LIKE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 216 senorous assi«t,„„.o of the natives wl.om tbeV c„„ti„ued U, meet, these fen,iu« them aeross the n,,,uer„us in e yi^„ »«'<>"<•' of tho Mnvk.u,\o, and th.n.e to Fort rlnfi i . -"".n. I.fe and climatology of the regions traversed tmie". Z 216 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; accounts of his travels of great value and fascination. Lichen and moss, allordinj. reindec^r anoans or hu«e boats. Tims batlLed, althonoh a brave and i IHligent man liae again ascended the CV^ppermine and in due lime arrived at Fort Conti(h'nc(. While towing the boat along shorc^ over the last bad rapiwn t..mi the boat, and seen to sink, nevel. to H e ..^i^ H<'n.g aetnv, of an amiable disposition, and of extrem; 70 ]' »('ss, his death was deeply lamented. "" During Kae's employment on this tviu n.. i.- i (lossea (,reat liear Lake to ts outlet it if« «,.,,fi. by means of ' ^^ '*'' ''""^'^ extremity, GREAT BEAR RIVER. |i t.ibutar.v .,f tlu. Muy uaine, .ta,.,e,l i„la,„l, ,„„,,o«i„^, to shoH,. . the" i -' t.M.,e, lie «„„„ |„.st his way, an,l as is usual it is s-,i,l ^r PH».M,s to do u„.le,. su.h .■i,v„M,s,a„,.es, he t arte,, 'v.m A.T.v,uK at a tortuous strean, he was •■.uupell t sti. it » <-e, .•nr.T.ug his eIoth,.s upo„ his baek. ',„ his e,™ 1 , f K. ,,«,,,» ,ar,ue,,,s, but u„o„ arrivin, on the X: ^ -Hi fortunately re ,Z | .,; e';;",' Ty""'"' ''"""" -"I ..'nn.ne,l i s eou,panio„s "' '""' """*'' "'""^'< »f ^'^iZ 'Iw '" ""■r;""""""l.poare„ to be eharaeteristie th..- sa.lo,.s, „lu, coul.1 not be n,a,l,. to realize the .lander THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ai'iising through waudoriug from compauiobs until expei-ieuce (1 taught them better. On another occasion one of them was found contentedly WALKING TOWARD THE MOON, which, being red and near the horizon, streamed through the forest and led the wanderer into the belief that he was a^)- proaching the camp-fire of his comrades. Dr. Richardson eventually arrived in England on the ()tli of November, where he was received with marks of satisfaction for his great services. He had been absent nineteen months, twelve of which were spent in actual travel. IVORY KNIVES. OR, UFE IN THE GREAT ;VM1TE WORLD. 219 l!i CHAPTER XVIII. SEARCH EXPEDITION OF JAMES C. ROSS. The first expedition fitted out to seai-cli for tlie lost explor- ers by way of the Lancaster Sound route, left En-land June 12, 1848, in command of Sir James C. Koss, who, i? will he remembered, had been in many parts of the world with his distin.^uished uncle. Sir John Koss. The pennant ship "Enterprise" was of 450 tons, and amono tlie officers were the afterwards celebrated lieutenants, Mc- Clure and McClintock. The "Investigator," in command of ( aptain E. J. Hird, who had served under Parry during his second and fourth voyages, was of 480 tons. The two ships carried a complement of 135 men. LEOPOLD HARBOR, at the northwestern corner of l»rince llegent's Inlet, was reached September 11th, and here, a month later, winter-quar- ters were completed. A more desirable location could not have been secured, for it commanded the junction of the four great channels, Lancaster Sound, Wellington Channel, Bar- row's Strait, and Prince Regent's Inlet, so that any of Frank- lin's party, traveling by either route, could scarcely avoid learn- ing of their i)resence in Leonold Harbor. Knowing that a party sn ,. t of provisions would search for foxes at this time of year, about fifty of these small white crea- tures were entrapped, and, copper collars containing informa- tion for the lost men being fastened about their necks, again set at liberty. Parry had previously used this method, having left medals with the Eskimos. The winter passed uneventfully, and during April and May 220 TME search for the north POLE; Captain Ross and Lieutenant McClintock, with twelve men, explored the north and west coasi, of north somerset as far as latitude 72° 38' and longitude 95° 40' and eret^ted a cairn of stones. Beyond this thej could see clearly to a dis- tance of tift.v miles, and that the Gulf of Boothia was sep- arated from the western sea by an apparent Isthmus, now, however, known to be a short neck of water called Bellot Strait. While they Avere absent Mr. Mathias, assistant-surgeon on the "Enterprise," died of consumption. Meanwhile, both coasts of Prince Regent's Inlet and the western coast of the Gulf of Boothia for some distance had been examined, so that, considering Rae's work along the Avest coast in 1847, not; more than 150 2niles of the western shore of the inlet and gulf remained unsear"1.3d. A small party under Lieutenant Barnard had also crossed Barrow's Strait and examined a portion of le north coast. Nowhere were traces of their missing countrymen to be found. The party that examined the west coast of Prince Regent's Inlet came upon the house occupied by Sir John Ross 'tj the winter of 1832-3. The stores taken from the "Fury," aban- doned in 1827, Avere found in an excellent state of preserva- tion. These embraced tiour, peas, meat and portable soups, which last was as wholesome as when tirst nmnufactured. It now appeared to Captain Ross that Franklin had not entered J'rince Regent's Inlet, but continued westward through Barrow's Strait, turning south, eventually, in an effort *t<> reach the mainland of America, and that therefore Dr. Rih,ver," (.V.nnuinder Moore, an< the "Herald," Captain KeNet. These two vessels, having passed the strait, discovered to the northwar-l two ishiuds with several neighboring islets. They then repaired to winter- quarrers, the "Plover" to Kotzebue Sound, the "Herald" to Panama. Previous to this, Lieutenant Pullen had quitted the "Plover" and, with four open boats, made a thirty-two in(.in<.i;nl»l.> (l,in| v<»vn«v <.f IH'M-r, ^ '" '•<'''!»!-' to tl.iH H(,u:ulron s tons, ( ilDfaill Sir loliti i> 1 '-iyth „ ,•.„„„. „K,t> ,...,.,.„f I.V ,,.„„-,„,i f,.,„„ AfH, \ , ; i;::::i:f ::;:■:.';:;■: ■•-- ^.n,,...,ur.::;::;;;: ^ WITHOUT FEE OR REWARD FIRST INFORMATION CONCERNINO FRANKLIN Si i I nl ipp liilcy ;iii(l tlK-i) seardiecl fli'c iflii 226 THE SEARCH FOR -^HE NORTH POLE; north shores of Lancaster SouikI au«l Jiarrow's Strait, withcmt finding any fnrtlu'r information. Two days later the "Prince Albert" also visited Cape liiley. Says (^aptain Forsytli: "We observed ^ve places where tents had been pitched, or stones placed as if they had been used for keeping the lower part of the tent down f also great quanti- ties of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it (yellow), part of which 1 hav(> enclosed." About this time the "Lady Franklin," Captain Penny, suc- ceeded in pushing her way up Wellington Channel as far as CORNWALLIS ISLAND, when, although an impenetrable ice-barrier was met, to the great chagrin of Captain Penny, open water could be seen be- yond as far as the eye could reach. The season being now far advanced, preparations for WINTER-QUARTERS were made at once. The "Lady Franklin" established herself at the south extremity of (\)rnwallis Land, wher(^ she was joined by the "Felix," under Sir John lioss, whih* the "Reso- lute" and the "Assistance," Captain Austin and Lieutenant Ommaney, fastened themselves to the ice-pack. The "Prince Albert," having accomplislied its mission, hastened to Eu"- land, after an absence of but four months, without anv loss whatever, and, while but seventy-five men remained in charge of the shii)s. "No signs" wei-e invariably the • Kotrent's Inlet <'.mwWi. ^^«u(ii d\ May of Prince lu^eur 8 lujrt, aiKl the pas-saj-es connectino it with the w^«f ^;vr::-i-;xr;:;n «' ----- On the 22d of May, 1851, the "Prince Albert" ao-dn set ..u an.l express, was enthusiastically cheered .s .... to her weary watchin- '^'' •'^'^'" ^"^'"^^'1 isli villajre of ''' °''"''-'' "PP-'site the Dan- U-PER-NA-VIK, on the west coast of Greenlsnid and the nnvn -nt civiu.ed sott.en.en. on ^'i:::7:::!::::rvn:L 228 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; village six large Eskimo clogs were taken on board and the ship's already full supply of boats was supplemented by a number of sealskin boats. On the 13th the "Prince Albert" met the American vessels, the "Advance" and the "Rescue," just esca])ed from an eight months' perilous drift in tlie ice-pack. Not until AugUfit 2()th did Captain Kennedy succeed in reaching I'oud's Inlet, at the entrance to Lancaster Souud. Here a party of Eskimos visited the expedition and so rare was the atmosphere that the voices of the natives could be clearly heard at the distance of eight miles as they approached the vessel. Arriving at the entrance to Barrow's Strait on September 3d, the farther progress of the "Prince Albert" was terminated by an impassable barrier of ice which an easterly gale had thrown athwart his course. Kefuge was then found in Port Bowen, where, it will be recalled. Parry had sought shelter in 1824-5, Here were picked up nails, pieces of canvas, and broken pipes, while the 'cairns and stone fireplace were still standing. The lonely grave of John Cottrell, the seaman from tlie "Fury" who, at the age of thirty-nine, was buried in July, 1825, was also revisited. On the 9th of September Captain Kennedy succeeded in crossing the inlet to within a few miles of Port Leopold. With a gutta-percha boat and four seamen, he finally ef- fected a landing, andpfafter spending an hour in endeavoring to reconnoitre the north coast and to ascertain whether or not documents had been left by any of the other searching parti<'s, attempted to return to the vessel. But this was imposslhh'. The ice had changed its position and was now a TOSSING, GRINDING, ROARING MASS of danger. Night was on, and the unfortunate men were com- pelled to draw up their boat on the beach and shelter them- selves beneath it. The cold was intense, and Captain Ken- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 229 iiedy was compelled to restrain his men from taking more than intermittent naps during the entire night. At length morning dawned, but not a vestige of their vessel was in sight; they were now in danger and perhaps doomed. Winter was upon them— and the hope for rescue in the follow- ing spring was their great comfort. Most fortunately Sir James C. Koss had built a house, left stores, and a launch upon Uhaler Point in 1849. To these the unhappy men at once re- I)aired and found them in excellent condition. A dwellin-r- place was soon provided in the launch, and healed bv '< ans of a stove and fuel which were among the supplies nuind IVmmican, biscuit and chocolate were their food. A week l)assed, Avhen, on the 17th, they were JOYFULLY SURPRISED by the appearance of the iiltrepid Bellot, who, with seven men, had succeeded in dragging the jolly-boat over the ice from the ship, after having made two previous ineffectual attempts to do so. Returning to the ship, the winter wore away, when on February 25th, Kennedy and liellot, with six men and four sledges, drawn by dogs and men, began the spring work of search and exploration. Traveling the east coast of North Somerset, 1 he ptirty arrived at Fury Beach on the 5th of March. Here the preserved soups and vegetables deposited by Sir John IJoss thirty years previous were found in perfect condition. The flour had become caked into soft lumps, but upon being ivground and passed through a sieve made excellent biscuit. " At its southern extremity they crossed Victoria Strait and thoroughly EXPLORED PRINCE OF WALES LAND, (hence recrossing to North Somerset, followed its north coast back to the starting point. Thus terminated one of the most remarkable sledge Journeys on record, during which, in ninety- seven days, eleven hundred miles were traveled without ill- ness or accident. Finally released from a ten months' imprisonment in the ice, the "Prince Albert" crossed Barrow's Strait to Cape Riley, 230 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: where was met the "North Star," under command of Captain IMillen, who had returned from his trip to Bering's Strait and had been despatched with tlie "North Star" as a depot-ship to the squadron of Sir EdAAard Belcher. It was now determiued that tlie "Prince Albert" should return to England, and, although both Kennedy and Bellor eagerly endeavored to joii Sir Edward's squadron and to allow the "Prince Albert" to return to England in charge of others, it was finally decided otherwise and accordingly Lady Frank- lin's vessel again directed her course homeward, arriving ul Aberdeen, October 7th, 1852, after an absence of fifteen months without the loss of a man. NATIVE NEEDLE-CASE, rreseDt«d to 0. F. Hall when on Eins William Land, 1869. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. CHAPTER XXIII. VOYAGE OF M'CLURE AXD COLLIXSON: DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE. Lenvins for a timo the vessels condnctino. tlu^ .soairh bv ^y of Lane-aster 8o„„d, we return to c-onsic^.. wb. t^n , ^ > lnl(N ^yas be.n^ done by way of Bering's Strait-efforts e n.,^ to the discovery of the northwest .^ssao. and ! i .. t |o .- of the n.ost pleasin, as well as n.st ^^i^^/^nZ in Arctic research. * .ui.unts ■•I,n'™t"ato'r'M,nr T ','""™ "' *"^ "Enterprise" .,,,.1 tho uncsrigator, under Sir James (\ !{()«« in ISiO fi. . a..i„ mtea out ana ..t «an ,..,.,„ Eu,,,:', Z Z^^^.^Z: M.>, 1850, Capfa,,, It. ,..,„i„„„„, .onnnanclius offl.-,.,, „• M, I.. L. McClure m .-harst. „f the "I„v,«tioat„.-." Each vesse ',:"'■■'„ ^"•"'P't""^'" "f -•''*.-»!- men;an,„„« the 1 M ,! Kev M... M,er schi,,,, an enthusiast,.- (ier.nnu Sm-av a„ ^ I., bl.Hl„r. He aeo„u,pa.,ie the ardor of every man on board the "Investijrator" to the liij-hest de«;ree, and remeniberino- Dial the race is not always to the swift, McClure again set sail on the FOURTH OF JULY. taking advantage of every breeze till, twenty-five hundred twenty miles cast of Point liarrow, a man was sent ashore to leave dis- patches and erect a cairn. Here Eskimos were met, and after tlH' custon.ary form of salutation, namely, that of rubbing noses, had been ])ei'fornied, friendly intercourse was estab- lished. At first sight of the api,roaching ship the Eskimos were greatly astonished to see three great trees— the masts— n.oving about. They informed Captain Mc(Mure that an open < lannel of water from three to five miles wide would exist all along the shore from that time till winter, but could not tell whon the winter would begin. Here tlu' coast was one vast plain, having a soil of dark- blue clay, not a stone being visible, and the entire extent cov- ered with AN IMMENSE GREEN MAT of grasses and mosses variegated with a large number of bril- .antly colored tlowers. Large herds of reindeer and numerous 'locks of wild fowl, such as the common and king eider ducks .'nhvencl the pea<.ef„l scene. (Jreat quantities of them from the "luoviug- trees" and urging the veH^-I onward from a region which had always been to tliem one of terror and mystery. On the 14tli of August the "Investigator" found lierself in longitude 141S" 17' west, which was past the point of Franklin's farthest west in 182(i. Although greatly delayed by reason of numerous shoals at one time being aground five hours, she succeeded in arrivino off the uiouth of the Mackenzie, fifty miles from the mainhunr Here, on the 2LM, Captain Pullen, upon his return fr«;m a jour' ney along the coast east of the mouth of the Mackenzie, passed within a few miles of the "Investigator" without either party being aware of each other's presence. On the 24th, near Cape Warren, a party of HOSTILE ESKIMOS were met with, but were soon brought to friendly terms upon perceiving that no harm was to be done them. 'vVhen asked why they did not trade with the whites along the great river— the Mackenzie— they replied that it was because the white men had given to the Indians "colored water that renderev. The southern fii'4l»t of j^ulis and otiier binls indicat^MJ the near ai»i»roach of winter. Enterin.'.r tltc narrow <-luinn 1 of water separatluf; rtanlc's, or l^aiui^'s. Land on tlie wesi from Prince Albert's iiand on the east, tlie J)tli of September found the sliip but sixty miles from Harrow's Strait. This water-avenue was calletl Prince of Wah's Strait. Says McCiiire: "I cannot describe my anxious feelings. Can it be possibh that this water <'ommunicates with Barrow's Strait, and shall jjrove to be the long-sought Northwest Passage? Can it hi that so humble a creature as I will be permitted to ])erforni what has battixnl the talentecl antriiv«>(l from tliom noainst tl join them luufliij;. lie hjwl icir wIshcN and was unable ( o re Lonj? ml anxiously Ins comrades lo,,ked him; but all in vain. A dense snow-storm sudd and the searehers soujrht safety in their tent. Presently a noise as of a polar In aiii! called for vuly i)revaile ir providential care, McClure named the BAY OF GODS MERCY. Ib-ro the wint(>r of Lsni-2 was spent, oanus .'speciallv reindeer and hares, alMMindino in marveh)us numbers. Two ravens made the rinoi„o „r the vessel their home dur- n.j. (he m.mtl.s .>f darkm'.ss, .sharino with the doos the n-fus,. of (li<» messes. WISE BIRDS they w(^re, for, not allow(Ml by the doos to feed u,,on the same pac(> with them, they would allure the d<.us oradnallv from the food and when at a Ion- distance would then dart Puddenl v hack to the feedino- j.round, makin- wav (piicklv with the H.e.cest morsels, oftentinu-s leavin- the deluded canines noth- ni^- but cha<>rin for their pains. When huntino, in F(d)ruary, 1852, Mr. Kennedv, havin- shet and s(M-er(dy wnrh the A ,t • nght-a secon.I one in the Bay of Ood'x Mev,,- w I o', 1 sh p, fo, the tnne being at any rate, and to divide his partv ...to two se,.tions, one to travel sontlnvar,! and to end ,v o """"' "y "--V "f "ritish A rica; the other, u, travel s «.n.d over the ice, by way of Barrow's Htrait'and L ^ .r I 244 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; On the 5tb of April a fine reindeer was i>repared for a hearty meal, of which all were to partake before the tiual de- parture. ^ And right here God's mercy was again poured upon these heroic men. Says McClure: "While walking near the ship * * * we perceive Plover" ,n Bering's Strait had the auth we have now to consider While Captains Kellett and Mcriintock w(Me thus ..ngaged n. Hie vicinity of Melville Island, Hie former, in the sprhuTof 1Ho4, received the following message from Captain lieleher i 246 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; whose sqiia«lron nioainvhiU' coiitinncd in the vicinity of Hcecliey Ishind: "Slionld Captiiiii Collinson, of tlio 'Enterpriso,' fortunately reaoh you, you will pursue the same ('«»urse, and not, under any eonsideratiou, risk the detention of another season. Thes«* are the views of the {^overnnu'ut; and havinj^ so far explained myself, I will not hamper you with further instructions than, meet me at lieechey Island, with the crews of all vessels, be- fore the 20th of Au<»UHt." Greatly surprised at Belcher's directions, Captain KelletT dispatched Captain McClintock to infcu'm the squadron com- mander of the almost absolute certainty of beinj» able to save his ships; of the abundance of stores on hand; of the health of the men; and of his disapproval of such an unnecessary movement. In turn, Belcher sent back a command for the abandonment of the "Resolute" and the "Intrepid," whereupon Kellett, anii« CO' . ancient The loss of tlK^se vessels, through th ow essential in a command illustrates h i'Mtience, endurance, and will us of compevent inferior ofH( ID. !() c rashness of one m. cr are the qualities of "«"<'-^« to regard the good opin- "ers. li 248 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE. Kccalllnp;, too, tlio ])r()l>iil)l(' fnto of FiankliirH nobl* aim, the "ErcbuH" ami the "Tciror," tlu' reao(»t Montooinory: "There lies a vessel in that realm of frost. Not wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost; Its keel embechled in the solid mass; Its glistening sails appear expanded glass; The transverse ropes with pearls enormous stning, The yards with icicles groteHQiiely hung. Wrapt in the topmost shrouds there rests a boy. His old sea-faring father's only Joy; Sprung from a race of rovers, ocean born. Nursed at the helm, he trod dry land with scorn. Through four-score years from port to port he veer'd; Quick.sand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd; Now cast ashore, though like a hulk he lie, His son at sea Is ever in his eye. He ne'er shall know in his Northumbrian cot. How brief that son's career, how strange his lot; Writhed round the mast, and sepulchered in air, Him shall no worm devour, no vulture tear; Congcal'd to adamant, his frame shall last. Though empires change, till time and tide be past. Morn shall return, and noon, and eve, and night Meet here with interchanging shade and light; But from that barque no timber shall decay. Of theao cold forms no feature pass away; Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow. The peopled deck, and fuli-rigg'd mast shall grow Till from tlie sun himself the whole be hid. Or spied beneath a crystal pyiamld; As in pure amlier with diver?^ nt lines, A rugged shell embossed with sea-weed, shines, From age to age increased with annual snow, This new Mont Blanc among the clouds may glow Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn. And latest from the sun's shut eye withdrawn. Shall from the ^.cnitli, through incumbent gloom. Burn like a lamp upon this naval tomb. But when tlie archangel's trumpet sounds on high, The- pile shall burst to atoms through the sky, And leave its dead, upstnrtinp; at the call, Naked and pale, before the Judge of all." t ' :\i OR, hU.. Ii\ THE riRKAT WHITE WORLD. Zi3 CHAPTKIf XXV. TH1<: AMERICAN SEARCH EXPEDITION. As already stated, tlie Tinted Slates i)artieii.ated in l) .s<'areli for tlie iiiissi erallty of one of natu iiK exiM'dition. This was tlironuli I lie lib wlio, havinii at lii re's noblest men, Mr. II etirv (Jrinnell. « own expense tit ted ont two small brias, tl Advance," 120 tons and ten men, and tl 'iiH, tendered the useof tl le «i.» ies(U( >' < jmrpose of assi inu in tl le vessels to the (lover le seai'ch. iiment for the In the C< uj^ressional d of the offer, Senator Miller said iscnssion, eoneerning tl»e aeceptauee '1 tl •ink it onoht to receive the aj>probation of this and all other Christian nations, t( I, to see a merchant who, while tl niercial world are enconipassin.o the olobe b^ <|iiest (»f in-otit and of -old, is dedicating.' himself tiih object, and devotin«» a part itln^' the deej) i n- liumanity, and that, too, at th le cause of ss- is a transaction w ij. 1.0 2.8 1^ |50 ™^ M 2.2 I.I lis 10 11.25 18 111 ^ 111^ V <^ /a 'c^l C*^ 4W'> '^ '> o% ^"^ % x^' Pnotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (/16) 372-^503 ^^ ^V €3 o ;\ ^v % '^:.^> 250 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; to au enterprise so interestino- to the cause of science and of humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct CAUSE FOR NATIONAL PRIDE, that an individual citizen, not a merchant prince, as he would be called in some other countries, but a republican merchant, comes forward in this way and moves the Government and c<, operates with it. It illustrates the magnanimity of the na- tion and of the citizen." The debate resulted in the acceptance of the gift, and the Government at v ^ce detailed from the navy, officers and men to take charge of the vessels. Among the officers were Lieu- tenant Edward De Haven, a young man who had accompanied the United States' Expedition under Commander Wilkeif!, in 1843, and was now placed in command of the "Advance" and the "liescue"; Mr. S. P. Griffin, acting master, in charge of the "Rescue"; and Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, chief medical officer. Dr. Kane was summoned from his field of labor in Mexico, and although but thirty years of age and of almost lifelong bodily weakness, he was of that nervous, wiry physique which en- ables some persons to accomplish and endure in a way which surprises not only others but themselves as well. He was "a thorough American"— a "go-ahead" one— directly descended .from four of the best races in the world, namely, Irish, Scotch, English, and Dutch. We learn that he was called "THE MAD YANKEE." But his "madness" was of good blood and enabled him to do things in the midst of perils and in spite of physical weakness amounting almost to prostration. Geology, botany, chemistry, and related sciences were his delight, and he became proficient in th«m, not from books alone but from actual observation and experiment. Graduating in medi<■ "">«■, at thq im. From <'nn„ V , . •' "'""''"'S "«• retreatia« one. -elebiated .vuZT^iZ ''''™'' "' ""' ■^'*'"'^ '" «"« ..■'.Hn, ti.: ':::;::f jro"r'''Ce"''" :""f "--" .-- be remembered, were first dkeovln ^T"""^"' "'"'' '' ^^"' tlieeminent SwZZZIuTZ ^^' """"' '" "!«■ "'""'"g" ■ed appearance o, the rnowVnT A? '"" *"" "^•'"' '"^ -- of a century previouT *" "'"''' "'"" « I""""' Bank, is the far-famed al^e ftiooj L''"""' "'""' ^''"^'^^ of "My Summer in the North" i-a^ toneern.ny it, the author abo":l\l'',ettoftrsef"';'''"'''''"''' '''"' ""'^ » '""• '-* '■"O- * * •(\*lfr;v»'T''''"''"*'^^P'''«''k. blood. t>.e water itself tC .s pure and .'" """"'• """•^■'•^'■' """ effect being due to lie fi hnt I 7'',^ ''''"""^' """ ■•«' 'ate, as weU as the few stone ,,,1" '""' """ ^'''<"' "' ♦'"■ it. were coated most prtiv wit, thr'' ,"'"''"'' """^ '" some places, where the w,ter h. '' '"■"'■P'""*- I" >■<■ i ""P"'-"*""' t^" withere,! of ble. In riie -spr ^"m. tl ^ ie' thisT T *" """" '"■"^■•<' '"•idly over the ice. Says. Dr. Kane: "The news he brought was thrilling! 'GRAVES, CAPTAIN PENNY! GRAVES! FRANKLIN'S WINTER QUARTERS!" "We were instantly in motion. Captain De Haven, Captain Penny, (\^mmander Phillips, and myself, with a i)arty from the 'Rescue,' hurried on over the rugged sloi)e that extends from Beechey to the shore, and, scrambling over the ice, came after a weary Avalk to the <-rest of the isthmus. Here, amid the sterile uniformity of suoav and slale, were the headboards of three graves, made after the orthodox fashion of gravestones OR. LIFE IN THE GIIEAT WHITE WORLD. ^55 all.on,,.. TI,o ,„„,„„|.s wiml, ,,,lj„i„o,I t|,o,„ wovo ,„.,,,„„,„| with s„.,„. i.,.etc.„»,ou. to »y,u,„...,.v, ..„„o,. „„„ ,U.f,.n,|,„ ^ which «•,,« ,Ust„„.Uy vLsible ,„.,.„«.. „ li,t|o c„v. at Ihcf lis/a .^l ot .son.,, four hua.l>v,l ya, , on board her Maiestv'v sliip Terror, a«?e(l 20 years." ^^^-ijest^ s "On board the sh'ip" and \>ther evidences made it clear l.at here Sir John Franklin had spent the winter o 1^4 > ; ;n sa ety and comfort. Here werl .,„nd aj I i Uhtk^ •.Hys Of a foroe and of the carpenter's .,h,)p; a kev a c.sl- , niket; a pair of oflficer's cashmere o,oves laid out to ,lrv n"t ; 'I su.all stones restin, upon the palms; scraps of i >,v ^ little ,a.den sjx^t containin, transplanted anenl "a,; 256 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; mosses; aiul a j-iildc-hoard uailed to a pike ciglM feet lon.r i,„t lyin;; j)r((stiate. *^' Strangely, however, no iiieiiionnuhiiu or docuinciits coii- taiiiiiij.' the future jdaiis or ((uirse of Sir John conhl ho f<,nii.l On preceding pages has been indiiated the manner in whid, th(' yessvls of the various search expeditions spent the winl,.|- of 1X50-51. We now purpose to narrate brietiv tiie THRILLING EXPERIENCES of the two American vessels durinj. their drift of eight months in the ice— mere "sailing tubs," driven here and there and to and fro, through the "horrid Arctic night" and longer. The first of September found the ships surrounded bv blocks of ice fourteen feet thick and these heai)ed up in great hum- mocks, overtopping the decks and threatening destruction ((. the helpless crafts. In fact, one of these floating ic(^ ruins struck the "Rescue" with such force that her cables parted, hut she fortunately shot ahead irto an open space without seri„„s damage. On September 12th, in a storm, she again broke loose from her moorings and became separated from her consort. The temperature was now but five degrees above zero, ilic Americans having no fires, while the British, abundantlv 'sun- plied with fuel, kept their stoves in full bUist. The next day found the two American brigs again in com- pany, and, on the 14th, while crunching through the ice tlic motion of both became irregular, slow, and jerking, and fiiiallv stopped altogether. "I )octor, THE ICE HAS CAUGHT US- we are frozen up!" shouted l)e Haven, as he rushed below into the cabin, where Dr. Kane chanced to be. The thermometer now touched the zero mark and the beams and walls of the ship became lined with the condensation of the men's breaths. A lard-lamp was now fitted up and ili.- temperature (.f the cabin i-aised twelve degives above llir fi'eezing point. This was considered a great luxury. eot lonj^, but iiiiKMits con- Id b<' foiiml. iicrin Mliicli t the Willi ('!• iglit mouths lu'ic jiud t(t )}Jiei-. ^(1 bv blocks }j;rvat liiiiii- ,.. Kane, «„„e ,„„^t ,„,„.ti,.e tl„. Usouhn-.u^ f„. ic«, "f .nuW, i,„ti..nce and ..„n,pl,.t.. in bili.y T i ."'f;^' ;::tre;;n::;r;/;;V",;:tr ■;i;'i:^ t-T'- '■""""• r" l>.v seeing s.,„,e ..vor^rown ' •' ' '"'" '■'■"■"'''''■'' GREENLAND CALVES fonie within shot. I nn'sso/l a#<^^„ xi .station .„., ^^r..:x\:^z::::^z'z:i:::: z "nntenano. between the ,I„ga„d the wild Afri alle ' „ e^ -:-banVir;or, !;;!: i'l , " v;":;.^/;?'- r^ , I"" l"w, and entered the Inn., , ^ "*"'"♦ "'""KP.»t>-"i'k <•.". ;,:« t": ban rz i;,";::;::" -•'"-^ -'" ™ -^ "For a moment he oozed a little bri-rlit hi.u..i f -"th, and ,o„K-ed toward n,.. with a sta;;ied ^;;L:^r^:, I IlMAMi 2SS THr<: SEARCH FOR TUB NORTH POLK; Then lie .lipped; nil Instant jiftci- he nnnc np still nearer looked aj^alii, hied a;;ain, and \v«nt down. » * # Vn.l .,* I lost Inni. ''Have nalni'alists ever noticed the ex|>icssi(,n of the ani- inal's phi/? Cniiosit.v, contentment, pain, ivpi-oaeded as sole commander. On January 12th A SUDDEN SHOCK brings all hands on deck. The ice-tiehl has parted, and in the fissure thus formed comes a marble-like mass of Ice beariii«i directly toward the stern <.f the vessel. It stops— then ad"^ vances. Will it strike? ( J od forbid. Hut if so, then no eartli- l.y power can save the defenseless ship from immediate destiiu - tion. On it comes until scarcely a yard of si)ace remains be- fore it must collide with the frail craft. lint— it stops, and, be<-ominn impacted, clings to the stern for months. neani, m OR, LIFE IN TFIE ORRaT VVF.ITK WORLD. At length, (Ui .Jannaiv l'!)lli, Hi,, sun .,n. .. . i BALL OP KIRE3 ::^t:;:i::;i::;::;;;\;;:::"'-;;;;--;«; ;-: :- :;;;,::■•' - • - -M;:r:^;;nt- "I looked at liiin tliankfullv"savM M.. ic. u ■ . -- r;;:,:;;:;:::.,.:';i;:;:- ' ■•^- ■ -. GRAND BREAKUP OP ICE =:',,..;:;;iz;;;';;;;::;^;?::::i;-:ii; ---...a,..,.. ""•■-■was ::;'e a , !' "'™,:,A"" '•*■;"" ""■ »"'" ■'^f"- "■n» likewise liberau!,! '"^ '"""' '"*"• *'»■ "A"•'"«' """• winters lee 1850), while some Esquimaux families were killing seals near ^n^wnr'' ';"' T^" """'"' ■="■'"•" '» Arrowsmith's char Iv.ng Uilham's Land, about forty white men were seen trave .UK m company southward over the ice, and draggLg a bm and sledges with them. They wer,. passing along the we »hore of the above name,l island. None of%he abo e partv » ood but by signs the natives were led to believe that the ships had been crushed by ice, and that they were now go n" where they expected to find deer to shoot. .=-rom thelZi? auce of the men, all of whom, with the exception of an office • were hauling on ,he drag-ropes of the sledge! and looked^ ' hey were then supposed to be getting short of provisions- am hey purchased a seal, or piece of seal, from the nativ.^ The offlcer.was described as being a tall, stout, middle-aged man When their day's Journey terminated ti.„ t---' --" t 262 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "At a later date, the same season, but previous to the dis- ruption of the ice, the CORPSES OF SOME THIRTY PERSONS, and some graves, were discovered on the continent, and tivc dead bodies on an island near it, about a day's journey to the northwest of the mouth of a large stream, which can be uo other than Back's Great Fish Eiver, as its description and that of the low shore in the neighborhood of Point Ogle and Mon- treal Island agree exactly with that of Sir George Back. Souk^ of the bodies were in a tent or tents; others were under the boat, which had been turned over to form a shelter, and some lay scattered about in different directions. Of those seen on the island, one was supposed to have been an officer, as lie had a telescope strapper! over his shoulders, and a double-bar- relled gun lay beneath him. "From the mutilated state of many of the bodie>s and the contents of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched country- men had been driven to the DREAD ALTERNATIVE OF CANNIBALISM as a means of sustaining life. There must have been amoiit; this party a number of telescopes, guns, watches, compasses, etc., all of which seem to have been broken up, as Isaw pieces of these articles with the natives, and I purchased as numy as possible, together with some silver spoons and ^orks, an Order of Merit in the form of a star, and a small silver plate, engraved 'Sir John Franklin, K. (\ B.' " It was evident that the entire Franklin imrty, numberinj;' 135 souls — the wvy flower of the British navy — had perished in a most miserable mann<»r. For his painful discovery. Dr. Uae received the Government reward of £50,000, OB, LIFE IN THE GBEAT WHITE WORU), isa CHAPTEU XXVII. INGLEFIELD'S VOYAGE. Amoug tl,<. »ui-|,ri«m|;ly ,,„i,k „,„, «„,,,,.«,f„| fl.e tnn<.« was tl,.,t of Captain E. A. Ingl.tt,.!,,, iu tho s.nul >.-s«.I was i,ro,„.|le,l by an liish-i,,-..,™,-,. engine „f Ki u.J- I.»«'er and was ,..,,vi„l„ne.I for five years for'^twelv.. n,..,. b"t .arned «,■,•,.«• of seventeen. Besides, sbe was also abnu,|. .V e.in,i,i,e.l w.th indivi,lnal donations consisting of te„,s ;::;;;;';'-;:;,::' """"'' "''""'■"'"^' "^■"^'-' -'^ —''-» ""■'■.' Among the offlcere was Dr. Sutherland, who, being well- ::;::;:;:si:r "^•''^' """''' " --^ ™""""^' -- -><'' '-' ni< u aimed at !• i»liernae.s, off th,. west coast of S„„th (ireen- l-.'l, ou the Ttl, of Angust, wl,ere the.v wer.- hos,i,ab ,' ;ynedb.v the Danish Governor an.l tl,e Esl 1>^' To Mr. GrinnelPs generosity in again placing the "Advance" at the disposal of the Naval Department for the purpose stated, was also added the liberality of Mr. George Peabody, the well- orTntHh r'"'"^''*' '"^ "' '''''''' ^^^^"*'«^ institutions toi contributions in money and equipment The crew consisted of ten ofucers and men detailed from tlio navy, besides seven chosen for special reasons. All ho ™ ever were volunteers. Strict sub<,rdination, no profanit'v, and abstinence from the use of intoxicants except when dispense b.v order of the commanding officer, were the three grand n.Te enjoined upon all. r,'-i"o niies The "Advance" sailed from New York IMnv'^n isr.o „ , -rive,, „t Fiskernne., South Greenland .1,, ^^t,' uLT vane .e™r«l the service, of Ilan. Ohristian/a Dani^l.E^ki .o l.Ml of nineteen, as interpreter an.l assistant. ProceeUin" orthwar, , stops were .nacle at al- the prineipai ports "trt l^.issaRe «as taken m order to avoid tlie ice of Melville Bav I e Degan to appear upon the surface of the water 'ibont tho y ami also to faH from the berg. They w;:^ns:^ d^ «ei--the great ice-mo:.ntain was disintegrating! Not n mo "lent was to be lost-the ship was cast off [v\t^ ! roar IiIta ihc «^ u \. ^* ^^^^ ^^^^ «"• V\ith a crash and »" had only time to fasten a spar as a buoy to the chain and let her slip. Srt went our best bower. "Down we went upon the gale again, helplessly scraping along a lee of ice seldom less than thirty feet thick; one floe measured by a line as we tried to fasten to it, more than forty. I had seen such ice only once before, and never in such rapid motion. One upturned mass rose above our gunw^ale, smash- ing in our bulwarks, and depositing half a ton in a lump upon our decks. Our little brig bore herself through all this wild adventure as if she had a charmed life. But A NEW ENEMY came in sight. Directly in our way, just beyond the line of floe-ice against which we were alternately sliding and thump- ing, was a group of huge bergs. We had no power to av«.i(i them; the only question was whether we were to be dashed OR, LIFE :n the great w«,te world . ,„ «..cl separated from it by an interval of H^e "a j. oil '"■' .-e, and tUe gale drove nB toward tbe pala^'an^ nt,?it" and we were readv t« ovi,u i n *^'*''*^fo*^ '^na into it; .•au»e,pr«babi;f"omaneddv'o th'"' "'","' '"""^ "— P'"---! wa'l«, we lost our blZa/' Aln . st"',? t,?"""' "" '""^ "'<' saw that the bergs were noUt res tl.'t I h""" """"*" "•" theirown tbeyvverebearirgtr;, r; r b^r":"™";';::' we w-ere faled to be crushed between the two ' "* Just then a broad sconee-pieoe, or low, water-washed here .•a,«e driving up from the southward. The thought flasliwl' npon me of one of our escapes in Melville Bay and as le «."uce moved rapidly alongside of us, McGary mau.^ed to , ant an anchor on its slope, and hold onto it b^a Zfe Le ■t was an anxious moment. Our noble tow-horfe, whiter than THE PALE HORSE ll.at seeme,! to be pursuing us, hauled us bravely on, the spray nshingover h,s windward flanks, and his forehead earinr^ l.e lesser ice as if in scorn. The bergs encroached u^i; Z »ve advanced; our channel narrowed to a width of p^haps f-rty feet, we bra..ed the yards to clear the impending i'ce wafl « e passed clear, but it was a close shave-so close at our port water boat woul.l have been ..rushed had we nol taken U from the davits-and found ourselves under the lee ■> a berg m a comparatively open lead. Never did heart-tried men acknowledge .with more gratitude their merciful deliv ance from a wretched death." In the course of this brave struggle several of the men were eparated from the brig on a floe cake and were not resc,",! 1 after the storm had abated. Mr. Amos B,msall saved h m elf from being horribly crushed by making a perilous leap o a floating ice pan. ' The gale subsided at length on the 22d, and the "Advance" naa hnally made secure in I!ens.selaer Harbor, Iatitu^ Thus the winter wore .V '" ^'"^"^^^ ^'' ^'''' was intensely col^.^ U c'mpithaT "* '"""^ ^^^"'""^^ <.f Hassafras, at nunu 41)', an ,dl w^^^^^ ''' """"« ••^°' -' The temperature during M ul onerl 7T ' • "'""^^ ''°- All but six of the d^gs died^f ' ''"' "' "'""" ''^' PIB-LUCK-TOO, OR HYDROPHOBIA li\n:L*;,1,t;e I't",""""'' ""»'"^--' ''--v •"«• <" the imaffecte.1 by any ,„ala,ly ^ ^ "'"' *'"" "'"P '"""-' ..f Heven H™ t . r" ^•"»<'«"»t "««. Afto.- au absence "Their story was a fearful one Thov I.n.i \^n ^i • panions in the ice riskincr thlT 7 ^ ^^''''' ^''"^- IRISH TOM had stayed by to feed and care for the rest but th. rho were sorolv no-nincf +i. t^ ' ^"'' *he chances were ..„Ui„g ,ub fa«g„o and bnuge; al couM iaii?.;'';': 272 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; lallicd onoiiftli to tell the direction in wjiich tlicy had come." Irniiiediatel.v, Dr. Kjnie and a pai't.v of eij^lit men started for the relief of the PERISIHNO MEN. Poor OhlHen was the only one of tlio.se wl^o had fonnd tlieir way back to t lie shi|> who was able to ^iv e any intelligible informa- tion as to th«' position of the imperiled men. lie was accord- ingly wrapjM'd heavily in robes, placed on a sled<«(., and re- turned with the rescninfi: party. Fortunately, after a toilsome journey of twenty-four hours over a distan.-e ..f pndmbly fori ^ miles, Dr. Kimo sij>hted the tent contaiuin^^ the sulTering nieu. Of this circumstance the j»dod doctor says: "We at last came in sij-ht of a small American tlaj? Mutter- injjfrom a hummock, and hnver down a little Masonic banner hanjiino from a tent-pole hardly above the drift. It was the camp of our disabled romrades. We reached it after an un- broken march of twenty-one hours." With the confidence of frat<'rnity "they had expected him; they were sure he would c«)me!" Now bcjufan the return jcnirney, one of intense sufferiuf^and which resulted in nearly all the participants beiuj»- more or less frozen, from the effects of which two of the men, Tiaker and Schubert, afterwards died. They were buried o\\ shore neai- the winter-r. Kane diip and 'inj? har- a team hundred f^ an un- li Cireen- ! chasms Cumberland Sound Eskimo Woman Etah Eskimos. My Pets : Ock-ah-mah-ding-wah and Kla-yu. South Greenland Females. South Greenland Dogs. Polar Bear on Board. r" '-■■■*;■ it ■..'■ ■ <^«HllMlMMiiiiilMitoaiki^Jid^^^^^^ lUmKSammil^^ % ;i--'\-^-u;" :v-^ -. — ■ fe,....A--.-> — - ■ ^ — Face of a Greenland Glacier. tSec i)iigcs 408-9.) Face of Glacier, showing Overthrust and Stratification. tSci' paK<'H triS-'.'.) OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD 273 ument. '^"^ ticu aiia ii.ihuhI lennyson's Mon- w. J''a.srt': u::;si' ^t^ '""«' """ "" *"- '"p -<' ■.<- imnions. ^ '" " "^'"S ">" ' "'"' '"""-"ere -.'■ -vont, L,L':;r . ;„. t":::',i';.;":,:r' '™ """""" ""«» beoa,„e so „„„,,v tbat v ,,''«' IZ'T" .^"'-' ^.-.n, Mr. McGarrv ZluJZ ' '•''"'"' "' *"•• «""■ Finally, on tiie 22,niiH J '^ ''"'^ ''^«t 'n "lowly and Dr. KanrdcXlt^r T'" ""^ "■••"'<'■' but «a» and await mor"e%t»t "c^ Snl nThfe?""^''^ next summer season. Fearing the worst on t h! ^ . "' *"* .ock facing west he had printl, ^^^Z^^:^ " """^ "THE ADVANCE, 1853-54." bites and exposure """' *"« """"'^ "' f"™!- ■>o, I».wever/'dvsed to ne ''"■ f* '■""•"■''"'^" " <^"»"-- "'en,that,shmndaT!' e"rrr„""*' """ ■"•'«' ""» '"'"""O ««..l.l ne;erthel ss re , e ?^ '"'«"" '"f"""'^^^ '"''' '"'"y return to the ship. b.other's weleome" upon their <.">M,:eif,;Ct„"e:;tZr,%°:- •"•^-« -'" «'i«"t others ""0 of the mel O^™ ;,t.:ttn';r^^' ''"'«'- ''«^- ^ ^nj:iMhe'^:;:;ra;:rt;:stp".rt,;r ''-'"'- '•■''»■<■ the approaching winter Ne.,Hv n """"'-^^ preparing for there was sore nee.l off .si, ment L .""1 '*'"" '*''•'' ""'J Itans set out to hunt sen, T, ^/-'"^^'"Sly, Dr. Kane and ««e, and a„ wer:Stat::;iro ttr:^^^^^^^^^^ ■.".OS, rent, and siedge were lost, and but for the* WgHs":'!' 276 THE SEJARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; bing Which Hans bestowed opon Dr. Kane, he, too, might have been numbered among the irrecoverables. A friendly compact was now entered into with the natives according to which Dr. Kane was to supply the Eskimos with' needles, pins, knives, iron, wood, etc., in return for walrus and seal meats, the loan of dogs, etc. So just was Dr. Kane in hi.s dealings that the agreement was never broken on the part of either side. The men became accustomed to the change of diet, eatine the flesh raw. Tne liver of the walrus was esteemed a luxurv On December 7th several sledge loads of the natives visited the brig, bringing with them Messrs. Bonsall and Peterson of the Hayes party. These reported that they had left their com- panions two hundred miles south of the brig, and that thev were in desperate circumstances and uncertain as to their future movements. Now to relieve them was the first thought of Dr. Kane- but, alas! all but himself, Mr. McGarry and Hans were on the invalid list and the doctor could not leave his hopital He was about to trust relief to the care of the Eskimos when, on the 12th, the unfortunate men returned in company with some ^skimos, who, while encamped in a miserable hovel, had vis ited them and given them meat, but to whom they would neither lend nor sell their dogs. Dr. Hayes haJ thereupon invited them to partake of food mixed with a soporific substance, and, the invitation being ac- cepted forthwith, it wa.s not long ere the drowsy hunters of the north were driving PHANTOM DOGS IN DREAMLAND. While Dr. Hayes and companions were driving the realities in Greenland, on the return to the brig. The unsuspecting Eskimos were, however, aroused throu-h some accidental noise before the dogs were far awav and the fleeing party were soon overtaken by the infuriated natives who were not pacified until guns were leveled upon them! They then agreed to take the wanderers to the ship, where, as OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 8„ Z'ZXl "'' '"'""' '"''''' "" «-'"• »«'" »' privation About tl,i» thle two -^ t * *™ " '"■"""^'''' 'veleome/ i>arty, when ou thepirt of ""''' ""'"'''"'"^ "^ «' »"« DBSERTma THEIR COMRADES . released, a^aiaaeteXwulrhouf""'- •""*' "-"■' "'^-^ prewoT irtir, ir4:i;;rxt ""f ^»^^ " "^'^ ^^^^ orswas to seize these an,W,^H 1 '' P'"" "' ""^ <'•«<''•*• thus depriving the e^pedittn of f "'""''' """""^ *''* ""«««, Kane, howevel- ae-Un nnnli i .''"u '"'«'''*'«»'y services. Dr i" i.'oLs for rji'mf '"'Pr'^''™<»«'3 'he culprit and placed him Thus the winter wore awa v Fi«oJi , the men were so much rXed in stren'jh ttaT T" "l!*'' ""* to the ship with extreme difflculh ^ ™' '"■"''^" «.ieremZdTrthtf jn;-^"'!,"''- "' ""'^''' t-"' -'" tl.- brig. Every h'n!hti„ u'' " *"' •'""^^'•''^*' *» ''"audon departure, Dr Kan "1 f^^ *■'" """''' '""'^y ^»' *"«• A-"! 'Iiessed the men Lrn "'l ." "' ^'^"P'""'<' '>■'<' tlx-n ad- FIGURE-HEAD .epresentiug a little girl with painted cheeks .-a ;;e"•' '"^ -en !'»■ fuel, can be declarCuo hv , "•"•'"■"»"■"<■, nor was used to the Arctic exllb iUu tt r '"""' """'''•"'''' <" visitors United 8t«te«"ti"n F •t™""''' "'""""» """"^ *"<> n..,mbian E.xpositi«u, forty years late», where 278 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "the little lady" looked sympathetically down upon Lieutenant Greely and his ice and snow-bound encampment. Having thus left the "Advance," the party were accom- panied to the open v ater by their friendly allies, the Eskimos Says Kane: "My heart warms to these poor, dirty, miserable" yet happy beings, so long our neighbors, and of late so staunch- ly our friends. Theirs is NO AFFECTATION Of regret. There are twenty-two of them around me, ail busv in good offices to the 'Docto Kayens,' and there are only two women and the -old blind patriarch, Kresuk (Kes-shu), left behind at the settlement." Working their way southward with much exertion, thev were fortunate enough to replenish their larder with a lar/e nuniber of eider ducks and eggs, which latter were gathered at the rate of twelve hundred a day. The saddest occurrence of the journey was the DEATH OF CHRISTIAN OHLSEN. one of the most useful men in the party. This was caused bv an internal straining of the body received in saving one of the sledges from being lost through a tide-hole. His body was laid to rest with due ceremony and great respect beneath a cairn of stones erected upon the shore. A sheet of lead duly inscribed was placed upon his breast. r.'J'\?^ ^^''^^ J«»rneyed they became greatly exhausted. Difficult breathing, swollen feet, sleeplessness, and ravenoun appetites pursued them continually. And here we again quote the graphic words of Kane: "It was at this crisis of our f(,r. tunes that we saw a large seal floating on a small patch of ice- as is the custom of these animals-and seemingly asleep. Sig- nal was made for one of the boats to follow astern, and, TREMBLING WITH ANXIETY. we prepared to crawl down upon him. Peterson, with the large English rifle, was stationed in the bow, and stockings 6B, UfE in the great white world. 2,0 were drawn over the oars is m,.«ia„. mal our .-xcite.ueDt b«. nl ! . ' ^^ *" -<'•■'■•«• "'^ ""i- ly keep »tr.,ke '"" ■"'""'"^ '""at tbe .ueu cul.l hard- ...elt^Vtt':.-r?„d ':;,?'■'' r""'""^' '"""" »p-«> - .'.way the oar» we™ .IL™ / " "" *'"''"" '""""■"" y«"^" a single scull aster« I e ' !^ „ ' "? """■*"' "" '■''^"<"'«' "ith when we were a m'stwiu,'"!!™''?' '"'"■'■*'''■■'■'' '"''''™'' remember the Unnl^l^ Z^"^^"' ?"" '." «"« "'^ I <«" upon ' ''"""""' MelWHe Shaekleton also in the re' , , , '*"•,'' '•^'"■"'*' ""-' t'ape "-t the, met a sing,,, ,,„,..„ wh,'!;;:,:,., •:;;•""-' *"" i.epa'd'leli'^r "^■'' '"■' "™"'" «•"""' "- <'--l .e, as Two days later a distinct "Ilellot" f,.ii „„ „ . '■"'»e from one of the men ,„, ..,'-, J' '" *'"'"' «>'■«• If bound ,ro„, tipernavik o K ; "" ""'""" "''"""'. »'en learne,! the ,.hief eve , 1 nt i ,"^, T"" "•"■ '•'■""• "'"» "A.lvance" „,ore fhan tivr;.:!:,'.: b:',:;:''-'' *"" '"''"'"■""•'■ '" "-' -Oodhaven, Dilc" ^^L L; ,t tL'e'.r''"''"'''',';' -'"" *'''■- t^vei.>, as tUe place is called, Dr. Kane m THE SEARCH POtl THE NORTM POLE; embarked on tlie Danish boat "Mariane," on the 11th of Hep- teniber, inlrndinjjf to return to America by way of England. JuHt as the steamer was leaving the harbor, a strayge vessel Avas seen to approach. Jt was che "Arctic," under Captain Ilartstene, thc^i in search of the brave men who had ju»t suc- ceeded in .Making their own escape. Captain Ilartstene had some weeks i»revious passed northward, but meeting the Es- kimos learned of Dr. Kane's retreat and thereupon <^"1>J«, wbore wore' ^ ' ^'' ^«"^ tt"''^^-«^'v<.,. His b.Ht wciUh "Let not .v(»nr beart be troublc-d: ve believe in (},h1 h.h- also m ine. r„ „., p,,,ei.'s bouse are n.^ Z^^^^'^H we. n^ so, I would bave told ,ou. I .o t^ pCr^pJl^:^ Ills n.otber and two brotbers tenderly eared for b"in, durin-^ h IH last bours bin bo possessed a decidediv reliu- the eloquence of bis soul. On one occasion be tbus wrote: I never lost my bope; I looked to tbe cominj.^ sprinjr as full of responsibilities, but I bad bodily stren,tb and mora toneenougb to look tbrougb tbem t<» tbe end. A trust baled on experience as well as on pron.ises buoyed me up at tbe worst of .mes Can it fatalism, as you ignorantly ma.v, tbere istba in tbe story of every eventful life wbicb teacbes tbe inefficiencv of buman means and tbe present control of a Suprenn^ a.-encv See bow often relief bas c(.me at tbe moment of extremUv in forms stran-ely unsousbt, almost, at tbe tiuus unwelcome- see, still more, bow tbe back bas been strenj-tbened to its in' creasing burden, and tbe beart cheered by some conscious influence of an unseen Power." How well Dr. Kane acted upon these principles is well Illustrated in tbe regulations wbicb be maintained even dur- ing the retreat to Upernavik, for then were held "daiiv prayers both morning and evening, all bands gathering nnind in a circle and standing uncovered." We have a more detailed ac count of this from Mr. Wilson, one of tbe partv. He says- "While the rest of the party surrounded the sledge with un- covered beads, Dr. Kaue rendered thanks to the groat Euler THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; (»f hiiniaii (IcMliiiics f«»i' the jioodncsH lUHiad evinced in preserv- ing our lives while stnij-oljnn „ver llie iee-«leser(, exposed to a blast almost as withering as that from a furnace. Our (;oni- mander pour<'d forth read.v and eloqnent sentences of j^rati- tude in that lonely s-%?„" of Anri'?L""f^ '' Holsteinberg, Oreenland, on the 28th Of April, 1858, the crew refreshed themselves, supplies were 284 THE aEARCH FOR THE NOBTII POLE; •""■;'; "'"' "«"'" ""• "f""»" «'t ""i .1,,. SIh of M„v „„„ ""'! '<"■■■•"»••» «„■.,!, ,„ Ki„K W „,.„ ,,a„',|, „,,i,.|, (I,. ' ■ ' having .„.,.,, „,.,ai„.,„ f„„„ „„. naHv^^,.,..,,!;;; „ . Z a on,-.. , ,„ ,l„„.,l. N..ar Cap,. II,.,.„.,„.,, ,„„ „„„,„ ' "^ he iHlaii.l, Captain M.Cii, -k ,liN,„v,.,.,.,l a l,|,.a,l„.,l s , pockctlxM.k, and a f(Mv Icttei-N. »'"'iiuij., .1 reec^i/*""' ^^''*"'' ^^^^"*^^"«"t ''-^^- ^"uud the following "May 2H, 1847. 70°""' ^'.f T'"^^'"' ""^^ ''^""'"'" ^^'^"^*'''^''^ «n i*'<' i" latitude 84^.^"; "'f •'"''' ''° ''' ^^^'•^*- ^»»-n,. winter ii 184(.-. (tins date sh.uld evidently be 1845-(>) at Beeehey s u. in latitude 74 43' 28" north, longitude 91° 31>' 15'' vc4t a ^ thewe't'T" .t ''^^""'^'*- ^^»-"»^'l to 7r and retnn c^ bv the west side of Cornwallis Island. ^ ^An'^"';'/'"''"''^*" commanding the expedition. "All well. nn J'"?' "'ri'""^' "^ t^^'« «ffi^'^^»"« and six men left the ships on Monday, 24th May, 1847. "Or. Gore, Lieut. "('has. De Voeux, Mate." Around the margin of the above record were written, in another hand, the following SAD WORDS: "April 25, 1848. "H. M S. 'Terror' and 'Erebus' were deserted on tlu^ 22d mh^Ti ! ^""T^" ^' ^' ^^- "^ *^^^' ^^^J°S been beset sinre 12th of September, 1846. The officers and crews consisting of 105 souls, under the command of (Captain Crozier, landed here in latitude 69° 37' 42" north, longitude 98° 41' wc^st. Sir Jno ' Ma.v and <•»• SournI, Hie cru'i-- Iiii'm iiicii 'iirch vviiN point of ofhinj;, n 'ollow'intr Jatifudt' tcrcd in y iMland, St, after irnod by ho Hhips ate." tten, in OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. tho 22d f^t since itinff of pd Ikm'o lir Juo, 286 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Franklin died on tbe 11th of June, 1847, and the total loss by deaths in the expedition has been to this date nine olii(-rs and lifteen men. ,«. ,, ,,r. ^ (Signed) «Jas. Fitzjames, (feigned) "F. R. M. Crozier, «capt. 'Erebus ' " "Capt. and Sr. Offioer." "And start (on) to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish Kiver." Still later on the western extremity of King William's island was discovered a large boat containing to TWO GHASTLY SKELETONS, one being that of a small-bodied -young man, possibly an of- ficer, and near which lay a pair of worked slippers, the other that of a large, powerful person, the skeleton being in fair condition and covered with clothes and furs, close beside which were five watches and two double-barreled guns, one barrel of each being cocked and loaded, standing muzzle upward against the boat. Here, too, were found five or six books, such as "Christian Melodies," which bore upon the i itle-page an inscription from the donor to G. G. (supposed to mean Lieutenant Graham Gore); the "Vicar of Wakefield;" A SMALL BIBLE containing numerous marginal notes and having entire pas- sages underlined; besides others of a devotional or scrip- tural character. There were also found the covers of a prayer book and of a New Testament. Among a great quantity of articles picked up were boots handkerchiefs— black, white, and figured— toilet articles, car- penter's tools, ammunition, knives, needles and thread, matches, bayonet scabbards made into knife-sheaths, etc.. etc! These articles were carefully collected and placed in the Green- wich Hospital, where they may be seen to-day. A small quantity of tea and about forty pounds of choco- late were the only provisions found. OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 287 Fuel was not scarce, for near the boat was a drift-tree Ivin^ upon the beach. *^ ^J'ng An old Eskimo woman was met with who stated that "the . Jve"; ZTzzTr-" '" *•' ^^-'^ ^"-«-> »"- Besides these startling discoveries, other valuable results nf a sc,ent,he character rewarded the labors of th^e inde angable men. The .oology, botany, meteorology, anTterres- nal n.agnet.sm of the regions traversetua was delineated as far as the magnetic pole The "Fox" spent the winter of 1858-59 at PORT KENNEDV. ".. the north side of Bellot's Strait, whence explorations were iiuiilereHultingintherevelationsreferredto "™s were Th,.re was also discovered the strait which, in commemo- al.on of the services of the gallant leader of this exnelitZ .« call,.,! McCIintock Channel. Setting sail on the 9m rf Z' gust, 1859 the "Pox" arrived in England on the 20th „fsep- t"." ber folk,w,ng, where Captain McCIintock was warmly col .'.ucialed and duly knighted. His name fir.t appear" n Ms volume on one of its first pages. BOMG-CBARMS OF lO-LOO-UE, 288 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ClIAPTEK XXX. EXPEDITION OF HAYES. WlieD, iu 1853-5, Dr. Kaiu' made liis famous voyage into uorthei'ii waters, aiiioug- those who accoinpaiiied him, as we have already learued, was Dr. Isaac Israel Hayes, but twenty- one years of age and just graduated in medicine at the tinio of departure of the expedition. He, like Dr. Kane, believed in the existence of an "Open Polar Sea," and, like his inspiring leader, desired to launch upon its unknown expanse and to explore the contiguous lauds. Accordingly, he submitted his ideas and plans to the Ameri- can Geographical and Statistical Society near the close of 1857, and, in the following April, to the American Association for the Advancement of Science. The Association at once appointed a committee of sixteen on the subject, and similar action was soon taken by other societies. In aid of the project, FOUR HUNDRED BUSINESS MEN and firms of Albany, Boston, New York, and Philadeli)hia made liberal subscriptions, the aid thus received being supi)h'- mented by the proceeds of lectures delivered by Dr. Hayes. The Smithsonian Institution loaned the necessary instruments, and by June, 18G0, the necessary funds and equipment had been secured. The expedition, numbering fifteen persons, embarked at Boston in the staunch little merchant schooner, "Spring Hill," the name of which, however, had been changed bv act of Con- gress to the "United States." Setting sail on the 7th of July, the expedition arrived off voyage into him, as we but twent.v- at the time )f an "Open li to launch ^uous hinds. ) the Anieri- he eh).se of Association B of sixteen n by other hihuh'li)hia ing su[)])h'- Dr. Hayes, istrunu'iits, pnieut had I barked at •ring Hill," act of Con- irrived off f Brig.-Gen'l A Tir r' Greely, Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A. (Sco CliJipters I. mid XL.) Near Cape Dudley Digges, from Top of South End of Conical Rock. (Sci> paKi'2rj3, etc.) South Greenland Sledge and Ancient Eskimo Sledge, found at Cape Baird, Latitude 8i 30 North, Grinnell Land. I, See Clwiiitcr .\L.) oil, LIFE? IN THfi GREAT WHITE WORLD. 28d Disco on the last day of the month, having made an average speed of one hundred miles a day sinee the departure from Boston. "When off Svarten Huk, on the 2d of August, the long- favoring wind died completely away, the fog lifted and ICEBERG AFTER ICEBERG burst into View, like castles in a fairy tale. The sea was smooth as glass; n»)t a ripple broke its dead surface- not a breath of air stirred. The dark headlands stood boldly out against the sky; the clouds, and sea, and bergs, and mountains were bathed in an atmosphere of crimson, and gold, and pur- ple, most singularly beautiful. The air was warm almost as a summer's night at home; and yet there were the iceber-s and the bleak mountains, with which the fancy of our land of^een lulls and waving forests can associate nothing but cold re- pulsiveness." Four days later the ship was met off Proven by a fleet of kyakers, while a cannon resting beneath the Danish fla"' on shore gave her loudest welcome. Concerning the "skin canoe" of the natives, Hayes thus writes: *^ "The kayak of the Greenlander is the frailest specimen of marine architecture that ever carried human freight. It is eighteen feet long and as many inches wide at its middle and tapers, with an upward curving line, to a point at either end. 1 he skeleton of the boat is made of light wood; the covering IS of tanned sealskin, sewed together by the native women with SINEW THREAD, and with a strength and dexterity quite astonishing. Not a < rop of water finds its way through their seams, and the skin 1 self IS perfectly waterproof. The boat is about nine inches •ic'^P, nnd the top is covered like the bottom. There is no opeiiing into it, except a round hole in the center, which admits the hunter as far as his hips. The hole is surrounded with a wooden rim, over which the kyaker laces the lower ed-e of I" ,1 * lit 1 jl If h: U 1 mw 2d0 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLEJ his water-tight jacket, and thus fastens himself in and lieeps the water out. He propels himself with a single oar about six feet long, which terminates in a blade or paddle at either end. "This instrument of locomotion is grasped in the center, and is dipped in the water alternately to right and left. The boat is graceful as a duck, anr ': -! ^ .o« a f^-ather. It has no ballast and no keel, and it rideb t on the surface of the water. It is therefore necessarily i.^. heavy. Long practice is required to manage it, and no tight rope dancer ever needed more steady nerve and skill of balance than this same savage kyakei". Yet in this frail craft he does not hesitate to ride seas which would swamp an ordinary boat, or to break through surf whicli may sweep completely over him. But he is used to hard bat- tles, and in spite of every fortune he keeps himself upright." At Proven, Hayes endeavored to secure dogs, but owing to an epidemic among them he could obtain but six old ones and a lesser number of young ones. The chief trader, Mr. Hansen, however, kindly placed at his disposal his own team. Upernavik was reached on the 12th and farewell letters were despatched by the Danish oil-boat then about to sail for Copenhagen. While at this place, Gilson Caruthers, the boatswain and carpenter of the schooner, was found dead in his bunk. In arranging for his burial Dr. Hayes called upon the village pastor and thus describes the occurrence: "I tapped at the door, and was ushered into a cozy little apartment by the oddest specimen of womankind that ever answered bell. She was a full-blown Esquimaux, with cop- pery complexion and black hair, which was twisted into a knot on the top of her head. She wore a jacket which ex- tended to her waist, sealskin pantaloons and boots reaching above the knees, dyed scarlet, and embroidered in a manner that would astonish the girls of Dresden. The room was redolent of the fragrant rose and ii.ignonette and heliotrope, which nestled in the sunlight under the snow-white curtains. A canary chirped on its perch above the door, a cat was purring OR, LIFE IN TttJ3 GREAT WHITE WORLD. M on the hearth rug, and an unmistakable gentleman put out a soft white hand to give me welcome. It was the Rev Mr Anton, missionary of the place. Mrs. Anton soon emerged from a snug little chamber adjoining. Her sister came in im- mediately afterward and we were soon grouped about a home- like table." Leaving Upernavik, the little ship was soon sailing amone a mighty host of lofty icebergs, more than five hundred of which Dr. Hayes counted as the expedition proceeded north- ward. On August 23d Melville Bay was entered and found clear of ice. It was crossed in fifty-five hours. On its north shore, at a point a little east of Cape York, was found Hans Hendricks of Dr. Kane's expedition. Having married a young woman of this northernmost tribe of Eskimos, he had continued to live among them. He now, together with his wife and child ac- companied Dr. Hayes towards the old headquarters of the ''Advance" in 1853-55. On the 28th, Cape Alexander, at the entrance to Smith Sound, was passed. Here, in a furious gale, the ship was greatly injured, but ultimately found security in Hartstene Ray, at a point eight miles northeast of the cape. While the vessel was being repaired. Dr. Haves and Mr Dodge, the mate, made a whale-boat excursion to Littleton Island, latitude 78° 20'. Its solitary inhabitant, a reindeer was killetl by Mr. Dodge. ' Meanwhile, Hans and the interpreter each killed two more deer in the vicinity of the ship. Upon his return. Dr. Hayes decided to establish himself in winter-quarters, namin- the lirrbor * PORT FOULKE. in grateful remembrance of his friend and patron, Mr. William Parker Foulke, of Philadelphia. Hunting parties were now sent out and an abundant sup- ply of foxes, hares, and reindeer secured. Mr. August Sonntao- the astronomer, and second in command of the expedition' m THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 1^, I ; busied himself in the meantime with meteoroloj^ieal and mag- netic observations, and pendulum experiments. In October, Dr. Hayes and Mr. Sonntag examined and sur- veyed "MY BROTHER JOHN'S GLACIER." discovered and nametl by Dr. Kane in honor of his brother, Mr. John P. Kane, who died in 1886. When on this trip. Dr. Hayes fell in with a drove of one hundred reindeer, he and his driver each killing two. During their absence three of the men at the ship killed seventeen more of the same kind of game. About this time was celebrated the birthday of Mr. Mc- Cormick, the sailing-master. A big "dinner" Avas served on the occasion. Similar proceedings were had on other like days as tending to promote contentment and good fellowship among the men. Prom the 22d to the 27th of October Dr. Hayes was engaged in further explorations of Brother John's Glacier. He ad- vanced upon it to a point seventy miles from the ship and at an elevation of five thousand feet above sea-level. Here the thermometer registered — 34°, but upon returning to the ship it was ascertained that the temperature had not been lower than —12°. Meanwhile, Sonntag had determined the distance from headquarters to Cape Isabella to be thirty-one miles, and to Cape Sabine, latitude 78° 45', the easternmost point of Elles- mere Land, forty-two miles. By October 28th the following comprised the list of game obtained: Ptarmigans, 1; auks, 6; dovekies, 8; eider ducks, 14; foxes, 21; hares, 12; seals, 1; reindeer, 74, besides 24 deposited in caches. In November appeared the first number of the "Port Foulke Weekly News." It originated at the suggestion of thr com- mander, and i'ts advent was duly celebrated. Mr. George F. Knorr, but eighteen years of age and Dr. Hayes' private secre- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 293 faiT was selected as the "orator of the day." His address was as follows: "FELLOW-CITIZENS:— "railed by the unanimous voice of tiiis unenlightened com- n.unity to inaugurate the new era which has th of January there were two brilliant auroral displays. By the middle of the month the snow-fall had in- (creased to 53 3-4 inches. A SAD OCCURRENCE is now to be noted. Mr. Sonntag and Hans having set out on a journey on the 21st, news was brought back, eight days later, that Sonntag had fallen into the sea through a crack in the ice, and although rescued and vigorously rubbed by Hans, he became so thoroughly chilled that he died in the course of twenty-four hours. Of this young man, his commander writes: "Sonntag's familiar ac(iuaintance with the physical sci- ences, and his earnest enthusiasm in everything that apper- tained to physical research, both in the field and study, made him an invaluable aid, while his genial disposition, and man- ly qualities gave him a deep hold upon my affections. KSimi- larity of taste and disposition, equal age, a common object, and a mutual dependence for companionship, had cemented more and more closely a bond of friendship which had its origin in the dangers and fortunes of travel." OR. LIFE IN THK GREAT WHITE WORLD, 295 Early in March, Mr. I)o,1j,mn Hans, and Ka-lu-tu-nah bmuuht u k 10 renuuns of tU. unfortunate yonng man and they wt e well. Ihe place was n.arked by the chiseled inscription: "AUGUST SONNTAO. i'»i(l™ tl„. flags „f v«i.i„„„ p„n.„„s „f ,1,^ ex„editi<.n and ,1., I>"«il-d within a ..airn the following reeofd- ' "TI..S l-oint the .n„«t imrthern lan.l that has ever been '""■' : "•"• viHitcd by ,l,e und,.r.,iK„,.d May 18 11 ls(i1 T, ooinpani.... by «e.„.«e P. ICno..,., t,.a;.di„« with 'a I',' i,:" We arrive,] h,.re, after a toilso.ne nnind, of fortysix lavs f nn ,„„ ,■ ,'• "'" f'lrt'ii'i- progress was stopped bv rot- " « and eraeks. Ken„e"• - i- "". the'^lr" ?""""'>*'''" ""- ''■'•""-''r was found to be unsafe for the hazardous nndertaking, and after a vain attempt to pass THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; through the ice north of Cape Isabella, on the west coast, she sailed southward and entered Whale Sound. ' CAPE ISABELLA is described by Hayes as being "a ragged mass of Plutonic rock looking as if it had been turned out of nature's laboratory unfinished, and pushed up from the sea while it was yet hot to crack and crumble to pieces in the cold air. Its surface is barren to the last degree; immense chasms or canyons cross It in all directions, in which there was not the remotest tr-ice of vegetation-great yawning depths with jagged beds and crumbling sides— sunless as the cimmei'ian caverns of Averno." Ten miles south of the cape were discovered traces of a re- cent Eskimo eijcampment. In Whale Sound, Hayes named various islands, capes, and bays, and in particular Tyndall Glacier and Inglefield Gulf Sailing thence, the "United States" reached Boston October 21st, 1861, having been absent fifteen and a half months Dr. Hayes then entered the government service as a vol- unteer and was assigned to duty as an armv surgeon He died in 1881, in the fiftieth year of his age rCNKBAt or CATTAIN H*t!,; Noy. ■» jjtj. OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 299 1! CHAPTER XXXI. HALL'S FIRST EXPEDITION. An obscure correspondent for a Cincinnati paper and the son of a poor blacksmith, Charles Francis Hall longed to know more concerning the fate or fortune of Franklin and his men as well as more concerning the deep mysteries of the polar world He believed that some of the long-lost men were still to be found in King William's Land. Divulging his plans to a few intimate friends and admirers in Cincinnati, he afterwards received aid, indorsements, and letters of introduction from such men as Senator Chase, Gov ernor Denmson, Mayor Bishop, Miles Greenwood, and others. Miortly after making known his plans, he received the fol- lowing letter from the GENEROUS FIRM of Williams & Havens, New London, Conn • "Charles Francis Hall: "Dear Sir-As a testimonial of our personal regard and " ml i "' '"' T *'" P"^P^^^^^ ^^P-"*^-' -- will con 21 If '""^T? ''"*^*' ^^'"*'' '^'^^''^ Pi-ovisions, instru- ments, etc., free of charge, in the barque 'G.orge Henry' to Northumberland Inlet, and whenever desired we will give the same free passage home in our ships." The offer was accepted, as also that of Mr. G. W. Rogers of New London, who rebuilt the old "Rescue"_a smaller boat-as a consort to the "George Henry." In his preparations Mr. Hall was steadfastly aided bv the ..se .mnsel of Mr. Henry Grinnell-i„ spite of "gVr " ics, limited mPan., and the ill success of previous expeditions Soon letters of encouragement and more substantial tokens IHl 500 THE SEARCH POH T«E NORTH POLE; of regard began to pour in. But funds were still lacking, and the determined Hall presented liis cause to individuals, to sci- entific and to geographical societies — in fact wherever a dollar or other encouragement was to be obtained there he urged the cause of science and humanity. Finally, about the 1st of June, ISfiO, both vessels sailed from New London, Captain Sydney O. Buddingtou, a veteran Arctic sea officer, commanding. Thirty-one comprised the number of persons on board both ship*, including Mr. Flail and an Eskimo interpreter named,Kud-la-go, who had accompanied Captain Buddington from the Cumberland Island region the previous season. All except Mr. Hall were experienced sail- ors, and for several days he alone was afflicted with sea-sick- ness. On June 21st, Hall noted the sudden falling of the ther- mometer and predicted the near approach to an iceberg. The idea was laughed at by the captain, and an old sailor, who maintained that ice was not to be expected so soon. But Hall persisted with scientific reason and soon had the satisfaction of beholding a majestic berg rising 150 feet above the surface of the water. Others of all shapes and sizes were soon met with. About midnight of the 20th, Mr. Hall observed the "North- ern Lights"— not the Aurora Borealis, an electrical displav, but A BLAZE OF GLORY all along the nortliern horizon, reflected by the sun, long since set. The next morning, the Danish trading-ship "Marianne" was spoken. She had been on her annual voyage to Green- land and was now returning to her native port. This was the vessel, it will be remembered, upon which Dr. Kane had em- barked after his perilous retreat from the "Advance," just as Lieutenant Hartstene arrived for his relief. Somewhat later, Kud-la-go died of a severe cold caugiit while in Connecticut and was buried at sea. Mr. Hall cC)u- ducted the religious services. ariauue' OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 301 On July 7tli the vessels anchored in the beautiful harbor of Ilolsteinberg, Greenland, where Mr. Hall was given a hearty welcome by the kind-hearted Danish Govej-nor, Mr. Ehlbero- The Governor was daily expecting the arrival of his wife and child from Copenhagen, when the news came that the vessel had been wrecked and his loved ones lost. Mr. Hall learned that there were but ten Europeans in Hol- steinberg and about 250 in all Greenland. Among those at Ilolsteinberg were the pastor and two school teachers. He noted the advancement of morals and intelligence among the natives and that the boys and girls had been taught to'^read and write with remarkable proficiency. The ships remrining here nearly two weeks and a half, the voyagers attended divine worship, schools, and dances. Fi- nally, to celebrate the departure of the vessels, a GRAND BALL was given on deck, the natives attending en masse. Before leaving, the visitors sang several Danish church hvmns. Again sailing on July 24th, the ships were soon in the midst of Baffin's Bay, headed toward Northumberland Inl(4. By the laws of reflection and refraction, mountains visible along the coast at a distance of from seventv-tive to one hun- dred miles, appeared raised high above the horizon, below which, by reason of the rotundity of the earth, tliev were in reality concealed; icebergs were lade to stand as tliouoh inverted upon their apexes; verdant islands floated among the clouds; the rising moon appeared shattered and distorted while the sea itself fell in ice-burdened swells in the thus strangely pictured sky. On the 8th of August both vessels were again at anchor, in frnnnell Bay, Northumberland Inlet, in companv with the Hhick Eagle," a whaling vessel. Captain Allen. "Here were numerous Eskimos whom Hall found to be scrupulouslv hon- est. Among them were the wife and little daughter of Kud- i>go. Both, upon lu aring of his death, were gn^atlv -rieved 1 oor Kud-ia-go thought u great deal of his wife and child, and X.' ! ! H i n 302 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; !!i had tilled a chest with many bright-colored presents for them. As soou as this little girl, Kim-mi-loo by name, came aboard, Mr. Hall and Captain Buddiugton had her dressed in American costume. Her hair was combed for the first time, and when deprived of blubber, moss, and the hair of the seal and the rein- deer, it fell in graceful black tresses about her shoulders. She was then washed, after which a more beautiful child could not be found anywhere. Kosy clieeks, red lips of exquisite out- line, eyes of blue, and hair of jet black— what more could beau- ty possess? When clad in a red dress with frills and furbelows, and pro- vided with numerous brass finger rings, her Eskimo relatives laughed, shouted, and jumped about in great delight. Another interesting character was "BLIND GEORGE," OP Pan-loo-yah in the Eskimo language. An expert with the needle he would seize the eye-end between the teeth, the thread having been placed upon the tip of the tongue, and then bring one end of the thread so as to pass through the eye of the needle, all by a skillful movement of the tongue. The tribe were very eager to become acquainted with the American language and manners. August 17th Hall's ship was in Nu-gum-mi-uke Bay, where she remained four days, whaling, while Mr. Hall devoted his attention personally to a study of the natives and visited some of the islands in the bay. On the 22d, anchor was cast in a small arm of Frobisher Strait, or rather Bay. This harbor was called niai)pel Inlet, in honor of Mr. Richard H. Chappel, of New London. TTpon landing, it was found that they were separated from the waters just left by a narrow strip of land about a mile wide and so low that high tides would probably cover it. Here were found many fossils. From Morgan's Hiil a fine view was had of the i -called Frobislier's Strait, a beau- tiful body of water sailed upon by Frobisher two hundred eighty-two years before. Forty miles beyond appeared the snow-capped shore named OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 303 by Queen Elizabeth, Meta Incognita. Later, this land was vis- . ed and found to be a vast glacier, whi,m whuh were fifty deserted huts, the natives then living in snow Igloos. Here was observed a sledge having runners of one and a half inch plank, ten feet long and shod with the jaw- bone of a whale. "' A chief article of diet was whale meat, the skin being espe- mlly prized, great pieces of which were bolt«Ml almost whole, rhis meat is declared by Hall to be "as white and delicious as llie breast of a Thanksgiving turkey." On September 5th, while on Lookout Island, a piece of iron ore weighing nineteen pounds was found. It was a relic of the Probisher expedition. On the night of September 27th a furious gale bore down upon the vessels and notwithstanding that the anchors were cast they were driven ah.ng directly towards the rocks The row-boat, Mr. Hall's main dependence for his future journey towards King William's Land, was instantly de- stroyed, and the "Rescue" left to pound herself to pieces upon •er broadside's. The whaling vessel "Ge-'o-iam,," under Cap- tain Tyson, fortunately rounded a point a. safetv and soon afterwards secured herself in winter quarters in Northumber- land Inlet. nuring October and November Mr. Hall carefullv studied ti.eauroral displays, many of which were exceedingly brilliant. On the i:UU of October 1 I'lval of the steamer "True Love" ( lo was much surprised at the .tr ', Captain Parker, and th 304 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; I 1 sailing vessel "Lady Celia," Captain Parker's son. Mr. Hall visited Captain Parker and learned that he was then sixty-niiic years of age and that he had been a constant visitor to the Arctic regions for forty-flve years. His vessel was then a cen- tury old, having been built in Philadelphia, and had taken part in many of the search expeditions. On November 2d, Mr. Hall was equally surprised to meet with Too-koo-li-too, an Eskimo woman, dressed in European costume and speaking fluently the English language. Her husband, E-bier-bing, could also speak English, but less read- ily. B(>th had spent twenty months in England. Their teni was found very home-like and comfortable, and in it when seen sat Too-koo-li-too knitting a pair of socks for her husband. This interesting Eskimo woman had taught to her neigh- bors many European habits and customs. She, however, com- plained that many of the whalers were bad men, and in par- ticular of the Amet-icans, who swore more and worse than the Englishmen. On the Oth of December the "George Henry" was secured in the ice for winter. On the 8th, the thermometer stood at zero, and on the next day fifteen degrees lower. The Eskimos now arrived at the ship in great numbers and exchanged heavy fur garments for knives and other useful articles. On the 10th the thermometer stood at —20°, the barometer at .•J0.175, Avith no wind. The weather did not seem colder than at freezing. The next day the thermometer registered —5", but at midnight U°, rising during the day to 21°, tlic bay becoming almost clear of ice. Rain fell during the night, the thermometer standing by the following morning at 82^, or half a degree above the melting point. The snow huts of the natives vanished, and the rain prevented them from catch- ing seals. For the time being, destitution prevailed among these people, but their wants were supplied from the ship. On the 30th the thermometer again touched the zero mark, and six days later 28° below, the bay bring again frozen over. About this time it was discovered that the natives trciit 1 hejr sick with great cruelty — seemingly the result of custom 1] ■ Mr. Hall dxty-niiu' or to the len a (-(mi- ad taken 1 to meet European ij^o. Ilei- less read- "heir tent k'lieu seen ibaud. er neigli- 'ver, com- id in ])ai- than the 8 secured stood at Eskimos schauged les. arometer m colder eji'istered . 21°, the he ni<>ht, r at 'A2r, V hilts of )m eatch- 'd amonjj; ihip. On lark, and >ver. ves treat )f custom '« OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 305 W I f- au(l uul ol" a dcsiie to torture. VVheu at the point of dcatli, the body is talcen over tlie slioulder much as a persou wouM carry a guu, aud couveyed to a sliallow grave dug in tlie snow and ice aud tliere deposited, being covered witli the material removed and witli stones if at liand. During January aud February, Mr. Hall nuide trips to Cor- nelius (Jrinnell Hay and to Ciarli's Harbor, living meanwhile in native huts and upon native diet. Upon returning to the ship, lie found Messrs. Hrowii and Hruce sick of the scurvy, but soon sent them to live willi (he natives, believing that a i)ursuit, one of them returning somewhat later, covered with blood. Search was therefore made and a fine deer s(Min found lying dead with its jugular vein and wind-pipe cut. On the 17th, Hrown started with some natives to return to the ship. His comi)anions stopping to cache some provi- sions, he became irritated at the delay and, against every per- suasion, started on alon(\ The next day his fi-ozen body was found lying beside an iceberg seventeen miles from the ship. A little later, Bruce nearly met the same fate, his life having been barely saved by the utmost exertions of an Eskimo woman. From April 22d to September 27th, Mr. Hall was engaged in the exploration of the region in and about Frobisher's Hay. At Cooper's Island he talked with an Eskimo woman wlio said that she had seen upon Ni-o-uu-te-lik Island, coal, bricks, and pieces of timber, and that when a little girl, she had heard, from the aged of her people, that strange shii)s had vis- ited these regions and that some of the Eskimos were killed and others stolen by the people on board these vessels. She also said that five white men were cai)tured by the natives, hut that they afterwards built a large boat having mas _, and sails and effected their escape. During his journeys, Hall observed great numbers of ducks, .106 THFi: SKAKCII FOR TUB NORTH POLE; nibbils, iciiuloor, Honis, niul boiirH. On one h-ip of (on dayi Uunilioii, IiIn pail,v Ncciircd !> Hcals (pulHHi'H) wclnhluK 1800 Ihg. 1 OdU.sook (liii-KCHl rtciil) woIkIiIiik ir)00 IhH. I poliir hoiir wiUkIiIiik 1000 IhH. W TolHl wolKliitiK 4300 Iba. In .\ni»Ms< llu» jmrty, wliilc on Oo-pnnji-nc-wiiifj; rHlnnd, ('!•(' jirciillv iiiinoyod b.v nio.sqnilocH. This wjih in latilndo <{.'{", lonjiihulc (ir>\ On \i-«>-nu-l«'-lik Island more coal was fonnd, ivninanls of wlial wci'o l('f( by riobislicr in ir>7S. On Iron Mouiilaiii, lli(> nxks of wliirli bore an oxidi/cd aitpcarnin'c, was f(Mnid a line picco of livo oak (iniboi*, donblloss a part of nou\o wreck, and various I'^skinio nionnnicntai marks. At Jcnics' Cape were fonnd n'niarkably line ones, one of them beinj; six feet hiul and in (ho sliapc of a cross. On the summit of th was fou'id a jiical <|uanlity of limestone. Ii e mountain Still later, a native was met who had seen, when a Ix )V pieces of iron, bri(dv, and coal. At ( shells and fossils. 'ape Stevens were founil On Aujiiist 2:{d a frcsli water stream was discovered, and named Sylvia (Jrinmdl Kiver. It was fairly alive with salmon, and reindeer abounded in the vicinity. A week later Mali hnnled ui)on and nansed Bishop's Island, from whicdi could be seen the entire heaion of sin<;ular beauty. It w;js therefore v(>ry apiu'opriately named in honor of Hall's friend, (Sreen- wood Land. In this re«>ion, too, was er 2()t]i, when .journ(>yln«>- toward head(iuariers, and ujton nisli(.i)'s Isr ml, one of the Eskimos thou^rhf ||,;,( he had discovered o(dd, but the specimen was found to be spurious. Doubtless the lesson of Frobisher's day was re- called by Mr. Hall on this occasion and made him duly cam ions. A trench one hundred and ten feet long and sloping from iiioiiiitaiu OR. LIFE IN TIIIO (JIUOAT WHITE WORU, 807 tlM' surfnn. of a ,<.,„ u> n <»" was jiicked np a pirc,. of n«>a(l on Ni-o-niMc-lik Island .slill ) iin ov( land nOHH«'H. II riiVi)wih of niK place of Fro|,iH|„.,.. |{,.Hi,h.N (I ill believed tliin to Im' tli pieee of iron vveij.|iin«- tweni Nliape, fni^inentNof tile, d H.V September 27tli Hall X'He rcli.H, another .y ponndH and Henii-Nplicrical in <•., were found H kii en r.v," the enKiiiiif; winter b« and on the ship. waw apt in on board the "(} eor^e DON '"K -spoilt living among th,. j ;k- On the following Int. of Anril his explorations, th pHI, Mr. Hall 'liat of Orinnell (Jl , V.," l>eo volente, or by the will of (}(mI, he sayn, ancessary funds until, on June 'MHh, 1S(»4, his little party sailed from New London, on the bark "Monticello," free transiMU'tation being furnished the ex- plorers by the owner of the vessel, Mr. R. II. Chappell. On the 2(Hh of August, Mr. Hall was landed with his stores on Depot Island, to the southwest of the southern entrance to K(»e's Welcome. A little later, Mr. Hall, Joe, Hannah, and a white man hired from the whaler, arrived at Whale Point, on the west coast of the Welcome. Here began the long resi- dence among tlu' natives. Hall assl. v.," h'l's upon reliance on Jnno II, on the 'd the ox- liis slorcH trance to ill, and a Point, on on}^ rosi- ;• liinisolf I loarnod tribe of Captain •st S(»on, ery fat." II 310 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; spent in the exploration of Kepulso Bay, his party subsisting,' meanv/hile by himtiug and salmon flshinj^. A whale was also killed, the bone of which later became a source of considerable profit and assisted in defraying the expenses of the expedition. During the winter a number of whaling vessels remained in the bay, and Hall held frequent intercourse with them. From them he hired five men to assist him in his future work. During the spring of 18G7 he made a sledge journey to Ig-loo-lik, where he spent a month in surveying the region about Parry's winter quarters of 1821-2-3. He also secured a number of dogs from the natives. On the 23d of March, 1868, with Joe, Hannah, and a white companion, he again started on a journey, proceeding by nearly the route previously traveled. In latitude 68° 45', lon- gitude 82°, he discovered a lake about twenty-five miles in length. In it were found several species of fish. Among these Avere salmon, some of which measured six feet in length. Advancing to a point on the mainland almost due west from Igloo-lik, he struck the mouth of Crozier Kiver. Ascend- ing this stream he found it to be an outlet of a lake about fifty miles in length and running parallel with the Fury and Heda Strait. He applied to it the name of Grinnell. At the west- ern end of this lake was discovered another outlet, which, flowing westward, entities into the Oulf of Boothia near the west end of the strait. Upon this stream Hall gratefully be- stowed the name of his accomplished friend and admirer, Mr. J. Carson Brevoort, president of the Long Island Historical Society. Following the coast south from the mouth of this river to Cape Crozier he came upon the monument which the natives had told him had been erected by some white men. Dee]) snow prevented his searching for records and he therefore again turned northward, carefully surveying the coast to t\w entrance to Fury and Hecla Strait. This part of the coast had never before been explored and its delineation at this time may be said to have completed the mapping of the north coast-line of the iimerican mainland. II ( OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 3U Passing thenc-e to (Hfloid Kiver, to the northeast of the ea^st^entrance t<, the strait, other relies of white men were Ketiirning to headquarters towards the dose of June Hall spent he remainder of the summer in laving in sunpl ;« for ^le ollowmg ,ear, and in making surveys arcmnd Lycm's Inlet By this means Parry's chart was corrected and a new iXt' placed upon the map. *^^ of whom"Th?' '"''''"" ""'"' 'P'"* ""' "^""^ ^-^'"""S' the Eskimos, Avhom there were at least one hundred twentv-two in he encampment. Food was plentiful, and Hall appears have been in a happy and resolute frame of mind, notwith- standing he white men had declined to renew their term of service with him. He writes: "February 16, 18fi9.-I must (Deo volente) e liav he arrived on the 2d of April near (^ape Weynton, where he f<,und lis cache undisturbed, but some of the lu-ovisions iiu Traveling thence almost due west he was fortunate in kill- ing musk-oxen and reindeer, and arrived in the vicinity of K.ng William's Land about the 1st of May. Here ho found other relics of the Franklin party and learncl from the Fski- nms that one of Franklin's ships had been abandM,,>t June 18B9, in a manner at once indicative of a great mind and a kind heart. '' The expedition vessels were two— the "(iermania " named « .th just pride after the Fatherland, and the "llansa" )octors Petermann and Breusing assisted greatlv in the perfections of all plans pertaining to the .ontemplated vova^e i-. Karl Bur^ • ;. f opeland an Englishman <,f Oernian education, an, "'. iiiish ship's surgeon, together with Li..,itena„i Paver constituted the scientific corps on board the "Germauia." On 314 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; i board the "llaiisa," Dr. BucliIioKz, wurj-oon, and Dr. CJns- tavus Laubo, of Vioima, represented the departments of elli- nolooy, antlirojwlojjfy, and zoiilogy. Tlie vessels kept in conipan.v till Jan Ma.yeu Island was pass(Ml. At length, on the 15th of Jnly, the GREAT ICE BARRIER off the (>ast coast of Greenland was approached. Says Kol- dewey : "Nearer and nearer comes the rushing noise. Every man is on deck; when, as with the touch of a magic wand, the mis( d-bye with a faiv- well shake of the hand, for the next moment we might <>„ down. Deep despondency had taken hold <,f „nr scientific friends; the crew were quiet, but desperate. It was a miracle tliat just that part of the floe on which we stood should, from its soundness, hold together." • The house was utterly demolished and obliged them to construct a new one. Thus they continued to drift, the 1st of Mav, 1870, finding them in latitude 61°, about seven hundred miles south of the point where the "ITansa" was abandoned. A n.onth later, they arrived upon a small island called Il-lu-id-lek, upon which they hoped to find the descendants of the Eskimos mentioned as residing there by the old voyager Graah. T'leir search, however, was in vain. Animal life there was scarce and shy. Finally, oj)en water becoming more prevalent, they took to the boat and made for Frederichstahl, the nearest Danish port on the soutliwest coast of Greenland. Here, on the lath of June, Uiey were welcomed by their brethren, the open-hearted, self-sacrificing (Jerman missionaries of the Moravian brotherhood. 316 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; From this poiut they returned to Germany, arriving there via Copeuhnovn ou the 'Sd of September. Meanwhile, the "Uermania" ])ursue(l a thrilling, yet suc- eessful career. She had searched in vain for the "Uansa," but had met with a whaling vessel, the "Bie-nen-korb," of Bremer- haven, by which letters were dispatched home. "On her deck eontined in a large cage, was a bear and her two cibs- for- tunately for them, on board a whaler they were n(»t likelv to want for food. One would think that a creature so powerful and active could never be taken alive, but on its hunting ex- peditums anu)ng the drift-ice, it frequently trusts itself to the water, and here, in spite of .its endurance, man is more active and clever, and with a well-managed boat, a luckv cast of the noosi- generally falls ou the neck of the swimuiing bear, when half-dragged and half-swimming, he is hoisted (»n deck like any other aninuil, the noose around its neck being a guarantee for Its good bciiavior. , On their return they are generally sold to some menagerie or zoological garden, the price of a full- grown bear being 100 thalers (75 American dollars)." Proceeding, the "Germania" was headed much of the time against the strong northwest winds. These were varied bv winds from the east, which drove the ice together upon thi shore. Thus was her progress greatly retarded, and not until August 5th was her gallant crew able to plant the flag of Ger- many upon the East Greenland shore. This was upon one of the Pendulum Islands, visited by Clavering and Sabine, in To the south of her position lay Sabine Island, and far to the north, Shannon Island. Both were ice locked and farther progress could not be made that season. WINTER QUARTERS were therefore established on Sabine Island. Thence research was conducted by sledge during their imprisonment in the ice. The first of these exploring parties left the ship on the 14th of September. The sledge was drawn by Captain Kol- OR. LIFp: in the -great white world. 817 dewej Lieutenant Payer, Trauwitz, Krauscbner, Kleutzner "Tlie HJi„re of the fiord was surrounded bv hpmf ifni 11.0 south rose icJcrownLlrm.r f '"^ vegetation; to II -4. T^ ; trownea rocks, the highest of which rwo win iMit this time we withstood the dZveLlL , ""'"'""' frjo-htenprl o«-.iv k i .- ^ ^^^'^^^ "t^"'"' "« we Ugh. Besides this he^ound " ""'"■*'' '^^' A BED OP COAL alternating with strata of sandstone Still i.,f r-sits of the carboniferous age w r"„of . , ^ H^ " '" tities, and thus an important factor in tlofi / ?' '^"''"" I^-t Greenland wa. iLe Uno:^ The'^i^';;:,':;:;'?!;" gether one hundred thirty-three miles ^*"" The only traces of natives found were a few skeletons and r"alle7rir^^ T^ "^'"'^""^ '^'^^'^ ^l^e^TZ^t recalled, Clavering had seen Eskimos in 1823 thpTi'h '^7'^'^'"" ""* b^'"S supplied with d;>gs and reindeer Zrere : ""T^^ ''"' investigating the regions wa "ry r.L ; f ^^^^*^^^^^««' «^veral degrees of the east coast S Greenland were accurately mapped. The journeys made were varied almost constantly by thrill- 21 318 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; iuj? expt'iieiueH with tli(« auimal life of the North, this beinj; ospeeially the case vvitli HUGE POLAR BEARS. All iucidt'ut in which Dr. Itorgen iioarly lost his life is thus (Ietail(Mi b,v Liculcuaiit Payer: "We were sittiuj;, fortunatel.y silent, in the cabin, wlien Koldewey suddenly heard a faint cry for help. We all hur- riedly tumbled up the companion-ladder to the deck, when an exclamation from Korgen, *A bear is carrying me otT,' struck painfully on our ears. "It was quite '<'"lnMt, ins scalp healed so perfectly that uot a portion was missing." With characteristic zeal the scientific work was prosecuted l.v the (.erman scholars. Actual contact with the land an feet six inches to sixt(U'n feet six inches "' l^'ngth weighs about two thousund pounds, and its skin is n.ree and a half in.hes thick (a sort of massive coat of n.ail), with large eye, and a head of infinite ugliness. "Should one of these im.nsters see a boat, it raises its(.|f astonished,- above the surface, utters at once a crv of alarm,' swimming toward it as quickly as possible. This Vail brings up others, awakens the sleepers which the boat lia and affer an examination of Shannon Island, directed her course Homeward, arriving once more in the joyous Fatherland, after a voyage of but three weeks, ou the 11th otSeptember, 1870 320 THE SEARCH FOR THE 'NOUTll I'OLE; CIlAI'TIOli XXXIV. r HALL'S LAST X-OVAur:. -HIS nF..VriI.— MIRACl'LOUS PRESEKVAriOX OF LII-E. Willi feelings of iiifcniiinojcjl son (urn (o ('iii)tain Hall's iliini ('xpcdition. ow juid i)l('jisiii'(' we now ('poll lii(> rcdiiii from hi s socoiul sojoiini widiiii (he Aicli IIS Ol r('j>ioiis lliill labored for iiioiiMis in anotlicr piojcci for nnnv extended exi»i(;i'ations. Tlie following-- extnu Is illiislrale 1 purpose of mind and heart: Kcplviiiji lo Mr. A. H. -fohnson, presideiil of llie liamilt Connly (O.uo) Teachers' Inslitnte, aceeiilinji an invilalion lo leclnrelx'forelhe Inslilnte, lie wriles: *^Mtiionj»h the primary object of my voyaj^e to Uie Norlli lias not been for <>('o<,M'aphy, yel F have been eiiabh^I to make considerable advance in jivojiraphical and jj^lurious, al least so lo me, remains as unknown to iis as thouj;li il had never been ( reated. Shoilly, I expect lo ai)ply l<. our (lovernnieiil f Slid, feelinji that thedav h or IS come when the «»reat problem of li-cs on ajies must b<' s«dved nnd Tliciv is ii o 1m' wiped o w cial •••Inhcs 3 h Pole. I, uaiiy lliou- s beautiful o • part of it ^t so (o MIC, f'li created. lent for its trobU'in of tripes." . Grinuell: « o' v) o ?o — » (/) B ft" rV i-H c cr cr S" S" « « 2 !? tDo 2, p p "^ O "-' =<§: w* I I OR. LIFE IN THK GREAT VVHITK WORLD. ♦In tliivo t«) Ave ycai-H, I «l()ubt uot, with th 321 pnitcclioii of lijol, Ih-av*'!! a N on I JIK«'S I would fully anoinplisli the dot iiij; Hoiil, wliicli (Ictt'iiiiiiial V Hiiuw aid and iiy two pi'cvloiiH Arctic voy- 'iinination of my bnni- KMi, my dear Mr. (jririiicll, y know to h<« to put. my foot ou the m>rtli cxt of the j^lohc." In writ inn to the Senate Committee on h ho adds: ou i-emity of tlie axis 'orcign KtdationH life 'Neither "lory nor numev h and NonI to Arctic exploration." as caused nn* to devote my vt?rv In Ins ellorts to orj-anize the expedition, Hall received th<' iiHive support of President (Irant, Senators John Sherman, <'harles Snmner, and nmny others, ami at .length ('onj-resJ <i«' to his aid with an appropriation of | .-)(),(»)(). A schooner-rinj.vd steamer, the "Periwinkle," rechristened tiic "I'olaris," was then purchasei. jo,. and Hannah, t<, whom hc-had been as a father for more than (en years. In July of the next year, the grave was marked bv means THE SEARCH TOR THE NORTH POLE; of a pine board one and a half inches thick, upon which was cut this inscription: In memory of CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, Late commander U. S. Steamer Polaris, North Pole Expedition. Died Nov. 8, 1S71. Aged 50 years. "I am the resurrection and the life; he that believeth on me, though he were dead, yet shall he "e." The grave was also surrounded Avith stones enclosing a quantity of soil to which were transferred sonie plants. Within the grave was also buried a cvlinder containin«r a hiMtory of tlie expedition. ^ ^ Four years later, the Engli.^h expedition under Nares erect- ed a more substantial monument in the same place to com- memorate the services of him who had so long and so faithfully sought for furtlK^r light regarding their countrymen. It was a brass tablet prepared in England and bearing this inscription: "g' ;red to the Memory of CAPTAIN C. F. HALL. Of the U. S. S. 'Polaris,' Who sacrificed his life in the advancement of science, November 8, 1871. "This tablet has been erected by the British Polar Expedi- tion of 1875, who, following in his footsteps, have profited by his experience." It was placed at the foot of the grave, upon which was found still alive the willow planted by Captain Tys(m, in 1872. Upcm the death of (^aptain Hall, the control of the ship and the direction of its movements dev(dved upon Captain Ru.l- dington, wliih' all sledge journeys and scientific operations ^y<'^e in charge of Dr. Bessels. This was agreeable to instruc tions from the i}(»vernment. The two men therefore held a consultation and ju'cpared and signed (he following: "It is our honest intention to honor our dear dag, and to OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 325 hoist her ori the most northern part of the earth, to com- plete the enterprise upon which the eyes of the whole civilized world are raised, and to do all in our power to reach our pro- posed goal." The ensuing winter was spent as usual in the Arctic regions and there was no lack of food or fuel. Joe and Hans hunted with great success and fur .lothing was obtained in abun- dance. The storerooms, already i)artly filled with skeletons of animals and birds, with eggs, and other specimens of natural history, became well supplied. A large number of very beautiful fossils was collected (m Oftley Island, near the mouth of the l»etermann Fiord. They were of a tropical vegetation resembling bamboo and were found in a crumbling embankment. Interesting remains of Eskimo habitations were also seen on this island. In the im- mediate vicinity of Thank God Harbor were collected fossils from erratic boulders. Quite a quantity of driftwood was also gathered. It had doubtless been borne thither by the current coming from the north. Early in June, 1872, Cliester and Tyson attempted a boat journey northward, but failed to get as far as did Captain Hall. They were, however, recalled by Captain Ruddington, who had determined to return home. On the 12th of August, Mrs. Hans Hendrick was delivered of a son, very appropriately named by the crew CHARLES POLARIS HENDRICK. The little stranger was gladly welcomed and much petted by Mil at Thank Ood Harbor. This, it may be remarked, was the tirst babe ever born to civilized parents at so high a latitude viz., 81° ;i7' north. The "INdaris" becoming free of ice, on the evening of that same day, the vessel steamed slowly southward along the west- ern shore of K(Minedy Channel. Four days later, in latitude S0° 2', she niade fast to a floe and drifted hither and thither in Kane «ea and Smith Strait for 326 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: nearly two months without gaining more than one hundred twenty niik\s wouth, being, at tlie end of that time, in the vicinity of Littleton Island, latitude 78° 20'. On the ISth of October, the "Polaris" encountered a terrific gale from the south. Provisions and other stores were hastily placed on the ice. At midnight, in the midst of the storui, while nineteen of the party were upon the fioe, the SHIP BROKE LOOSE and immediately disai)peare(l. The next morning she was seen under steam and sail, but soon changed her course and again disappeared. A few hours later, another glimpse was caught of her, but upon once more disappearing, the party upon the ice fioe supposed that they had been abandoned. The unfortunate castaways made several vain attempts to reach the shore, and soon became scattered on different pieces of ice. Finally, however, by means of the row-boats, whicli they fortunately retained, they were again collected upon the main floe. Here snow-houses were built in which they took refuge. For several days they continued to see lan^d„,t, wet, cold, and suffering ain.ost tbe ^nlL 7lZ^ roe:;i:;:.f.:;',.;;iX':.t;;;r """■" """ ■■"'*™ -'''• «■-" — >•■ .„o'^" *'"' -""'' •-"' "''«"'v"tien .,i,„wed tben, f„ be in latitude .3 5, -nearly o„p„site llu t„n Inlet a„,l nearly nineteen Imndred n„.es direetly soutb of tbe point wbenee 4; C. On tbe 22,1, a bear was seen eoniins toward tbe party. Joe .Hans, se,...et,„« tbe,.- eUes bebind an iee l,„n„ oek wau! t«0 si ots «e,,. 1,,-ed and tbe en,,tui'e fell dead. Will, sbout's oy tbe pa,, y rus 1 upon it, and d,.ank to satiety o, its t ™ ^nr,!;,,. " ■" ^'"■'■"*'-^' '■"•"■•"" "»"•'■•■""■'• "'"l t<,ok fresb Ti.y tbe 2(ltl,, tbey .vere in tbe „,i,lst of tin., .sealing gr„„nd.s and obtained a plentiful supj.ly „f f,„„i " '"'"""*' At 1 ust, in tbe nfle,.noon of tbe 28tl,, a stea„„.r .■a,.ryin>j n.gbt for tbe same purpose. Early in tbe morning sbe was 328 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; again sighted; it was the "Eagio," of St. John's, N. F., Captain Jackniau. She was signalled, but failed to respond, as the shots were not heard. That evening, while endeavoring again to attract her attention, another steamer hove in sight. When now the fog broke, on the morning of the 30th, A GLORIOUS SIGHT met their eyes; tlie strange vessel was close at hand, and bore steadily down upon them. As !.i«e neared the overjoyed wretches, three <'heers they gave, and three cheers gave one hundred strong voices on the s. They eventually arrived in Washington on the 5th of June and soon regain(Ml their usual good health. "Joe" and "Hannah" repaired to their htune, in (Jroton, Conn., which Cai)tain Hall had purchased for them. There HANNAH DIED of c(msumplion on the last day of December, ISKJ, aged thirh- eight. In June, 1S7S, J<.e returned to the Arctic' seas with Lieutenant Scliwatka and remained there. In i he (}roton cfMuetery are tombstones bearing inscriptions to the memory of tln^ following Eskimos wh(- have either vis iled or died (here: Hannah Too-koo-ii-too; Kud-la-go, July 1, 1,S()0; ()u-se-g1<'<1 nwu work incessantly, and insensible to the exposure because in mortal conibat with death himself. Tho leak steadily gains; engineers and firemen work asthev never had worked before. Should the water rise to the fire- plates all will be lost! Ten-twenty-thirty minutes elapse! Ntill the brave men urge themselves to the utmost! Must thev raise the sea himself? (Jod be merciful! Now forty— fiftv— sixty minutes drag alon-! Will the steam never generate'^ The water rises rapidly! Ten minutes more pass painfullv, yet hopefully-prayerfully! The ice-cold flood begins to steal Its way over the floor of th^ engine-room! Soon the fires will be submerged and all will be lost! Rut behold -the great pump begins to move! Quick spetnls the word among the tired men. They redouble their efforts. The engine now be- <-omes a thing of life! Tt gains upon the leak, slowlv at firsl and then rapidly so that all anxiety for Ibe time-being is removed. *^ On the following afternoon, October Ifitli, the "Poliris" I'f^aclied the land and wns secured by menus of i„.avv Imw.ers On this ihiy, too, the sun was seen for (he lasf time in sev- eral months. > < and sledges for that very purpose. They worked diligently, good naturedly and were. ever ready for a hearty laugh. Among them were Ah-wah-tah and Mi-ouk, mentioned by Dr. Kane. They seemed to recollect Mr. Morton. On the 25th an Eskimo living at the head of Foulke Fiord arrived with his wife and two children, a boy of four, and a girl of two years of ag(^ The woman had her face tattooed and said that she came from the land on the west side of Smith Strait— Ellesmere Land— being one of a party that had crossed over four or live years before, in an (M)-mi-ak, and five ky-aks. This family were the only survivors. They had introduced among the East-land, or Whale Sound natives, the use of the bow and arrow. Both Kane and Hayes state that these people did not use that weapon at the time of their voyages. Some of these same immigrants from the West-land and their descendants were living among their, kinsmen of the East-land at the time of our residence among them in 1893-4. By these same immigrants too were taught to the East-landers the construction and use of the kyak. During the winter Polaris House was seldom without its Eskimo visitors. They not only brought with them a great quantity of walrus and seal meat, but good cheer and never- ending sources of entertainment. To illustrate: one afternoon with song, and dance, and tin-pan drum they engaged in many of their sports, E-took-e-sha, or "JIMMY." a man from the West-land, dressed in a white navy-frock, his OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 331 long jet-black hair falling gracefully upon his shoulders from beneath a suiall round hat, dancing a regular "break-down^ to the airs of Mr. Chester's violin. "i^ak down Some of the white men, however, treated these kind-hearted eople with disdain; but to those who were kind to tiem they in turn were agreeable and very useful. Jimmy in pa^ ticnlar did good service, always bringing the ice to be nXl ;yhenever necessary, and otherwise assisting in the daily rou From him Captain Buddington learned that there were niany Eskimos living in the vicinity of Cape Isabella and all ak)ng he coast of Ellesmere Land. Jim's father-in-law lived tlicre, he said; and in the winter-time they frequently visited each other, crossing the strait on the ice. This land, he also stated, IS an island called by the natives Oo-ming-mung, from he number of musk-cattle to be found there. He himself had frequently gone round it. E-took-e-sha's (Jim's) wife, E-val-loo, meaning thread, did not belie the appropriateness of her name; for she did excellent service with that article, making many garments for the men, out of skins. Their little children greatly amused all, and many pleasant hours passed in playing with them. The pret- ty and affectionate little girl was a general pet. E-val-loo was particularly bright-possessing a woman's world-wide power of intuition-and could make herself more clearly understood than her husband, who looked upon her with UNCONCEALED ADMIRATION as She conversed. From her more was learned concerning the West-land people of which she and her family were a part. Having crossed over with some of her tribe to the place where Dr. Hayes had left his iron boat, which was found to be broken and useless, they picked un everything, includino- the oars, and passed on to the mainland where was found Dr. Haves' observatory. Here they remained several (lavs examining tlu^ many strange things which they had discovered. One night, 832 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: when sleeping in tlie liouse, soniu lire was dropped into a cawk cuutaiuinj; pttwder and A TERRIFIC EXPLOSION followed. Four or five of the party were killed, among them l)eing "Jim's" father. The j-urvivors returned to their native shore, leaving Jim and his family. When on his hunting trijjs Jim almost invariably reserved the walrus liver for his white friends. It is the choice part of the animal and parti«ularly valuable as either a preventive or cure for the scurvy. On the 27th of February the returning sun was seen from the deck of the vessel. About this time Mr. Chester, assisttMl by Messrs. Coffln and Booth, began the erection of two boats in Avhich the party were to endeav(«' to make their escape with tlie advent of open water. These boats when c(uupleted, three months later, wernt wix iiiclios Ix'l^vv tlu. I iiiK upon liiN ltM»(. His HOC. Tho surgoou <,f tli<. lOnuiisi. ship "North Star'' ,na,l.. a woodeu h - or him .u 18-1 , -.0. This wan repairs,! and roM-w.,! by | I ayes. lh(M,no h«. M.on luul was provided with an ankU.^„u.t of h.s o,vu ... f. . ., This n.an was a wi.iowor an*'•-♦ i" 'uit uiVhim '' "'' * "'"''' ^^'' ''""'*'" *'" • '"* ''*'"' "'*'•' ""'• "^'t < • tlH' ;{(! or May, after a brief illness of intiammallon of I lie Inngs, Mioiik died. This oecurred at E-tah Oa-ah-tah-nv, or Sar-fal-ik He it was who had been th(« first to help tl,; white men to're.novo tlu'.r stores fro, the disaJded ship; and !«. it was wlu,, son.e^ |vha later ami .u.rinj,. a period <,f «re.( s.nrcity of n.eal at I- vvj "orJ^ -^-.o IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /> ^ <. «'> <$> * ^ fA ^ 1.0 I.I 110 IM Sr m i^ iiiij^ e;£ 12.0 18 \M II u 111.0 PhntnrrpQnnir» Sciences Corporation .# ^^ «^\ V «■ ^^^ \ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4SC3 <> ^u. 334 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Thus is added to the commiseration expressed ou behalf of these people by Dr. Kaue, the willing testimony of the big- hearted Buddington — a fit succeHsor, indeed, to the compassion- ate IlaM, whose very soul went out toward the entire Eskimo race — his "untamed eagles" of the distant North. The men also witnessed the proceedings for A DIVORCE. Mun-nee, a good-looking girl, had been forced by her father to marry E-noo, a youth in good circumstances, notwithstanding she loved one whose wealth was not in worldly possessions. The marriage was, of course, an unhappy one. After a time the condition of the unfortunate lover im- proved and Mun-nee accordingly resolved upon securing a divorce. This was obtained in this manner: Mun-nee lay upon her back in one of the igloos, her knees drawn up, while one end of a cord was fastened around her head. A very old woman, Ka-rush-uck, stood over her, holding in her hand the cord and uttering what appeared to be a form of words. The tone and measure of her voice frequently varied, and with the cord she often raised Mun-nee's head. This ceremony lasted about two hours, there being no other person in the igloo save Mun-nee's brother-in-law, Shu-kok by name. At the end of the performance Shu-kok took her on his sled to one of the settlements farther south Avliere she was met by her sister and by her lover, who immediately proposed and was accepted. During the proceedings for the divorce the discarded hus- band remained crying bitterly in a neighboring igloo, and would not be comforted. After his wife's departure he went about complaining "Mun-nee pe-ter-ahng-ee-too"— Mun-nee's gone. Twenty years later the writer observed a similar though greatly abridged performance. A husband tiring of his wife, proposed to the wife of another man that, with the concurrence of her husband, she become his (the dissatisfied Inisband's) wife, the second husband acquiring the discarded wife. With much secret parleying the exchange was amicably effected— 1 behalf of )f the big- mi passiou re Eskimo The meu p father to hstamling jssessions. lover im- eciiring a e lay upon while one very old ■ hand the )rds. The 1 with the my lasted igloo save he end of )ne of the sister and cepted. irded hns- igloo, and e he went Mnn-nee's ar though f his wife, ucurrenre nisband's) 'ife. With effected — OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. . 335 only to be undone some days later by a settlement of what had evidently caused the separation in the first place-viz., a fam- ily quarrel. On the 13th of May, Mr. Bryan, accompanied by E-took-e- sha, or "Jmi," with sled and dog-team, made a trip to Dr. Kane's old headquarters in Rensselaer Harbor, the distance, seventy-one miles, being accomplished in sixteen hours. An amusing incident happened on the way. Mr. Bryan, who was sitting on the sled behind Jim, fell asleep. He was suddenlv awakened by a sharp sting caused by the end of Jim's cutting lash striking his face. He began to expostulate in a kind way with the driver, but found that he, too, was fast asleep. The dogs were meanwhile working their way through the snow, being urged forward by the continuous lashing administered by the unconscious teamster. At Rensselaer Harbor Mr. Bryan found the copper bolt set in lead by Dr. Kane to mark the site of his observatory, besides a great many pieces of iron, glass, wood, leather, cloth, rope, etc., lying about the island and on the mainland. At the place where Baker and Schubert were buried but lew words could be made out of the names and inscriptions painted upon the rock to indicate their final resting-places. A few days later Mr. Bryan accompanied Ah-wah-tah near- ij to the head of Foulke Fiord, whither the native was desirous to go for the purpose of CATCHING LITTLE AUKS. Thero the sloping side of Dodge Mountain, which was covered with large rocks, fairly swarmed witli the chirping creatures. 1 he vi(iw at times was fairly obstructed bv them, and the rocks were whitened by their breasts. Having fastened the dogs at the base of the mountain, the men made a partial ascent <»f the slope until in the midst of the whirring thousands, when, with a net of sinew fastened upon a hoop a foot and a half in diame- U^v, attached t», a pole about ten feet in length. Ah-wah-tah soon captured a large quantity of them as they flew almost con- stantly within his reach. 336 • THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: Of tlip delicious birds tlie dogs were given a liearty meal and then the two men proceeded to the very head of the liord, n-hei'e they found Dr. Bessels, who had gone there to exaniiue "Brother John's Glacier" and to make some observations rela- tive to its rate of motion. Thence Mr. Bryan and Dr. Bessels proceeded to Port Poulke, where the grave of poor Sonntag was visited. It had been despoiled by the natives, who had sought the wood of which the coi!in had been constructed. Thev collected and re- placed all the bones, including his FINE LARGE SKULL. and refilled the grave. They also reset the headstone. The relics were not numerous, consisting of a few pieces of glass, wood, and a bit of rope. The 29th of May found all hands busy at Polaris House making final preparations for departure in the boats, which had been completed two days previous. Each man was allowed but eight pounds of baggage. The fuel chopped from the ship's rigging and provisions for two and a half months carefully bagged, were got in readiness. On the next day nearly all the land ice broke away, and with it th(> "Polaris" went adrift. The ship, however, ground- ed after moving about two hundred yards toward the south. At liigh tide the water stood about two feet above her upper deck. She was made fast to the rocks on the shore, it being thought that she would ultimately beach herself in the autumn and thereby furnish the Eskimos with wood. The POSITION OF POLARIS HOUSE was determined by Mr. Bryan to be latitude 78° 28' 30" north, and longitude 73° 21' 10" west. On the 2d of June the large Arctic library of Captain I hill was carefully packed in his trunk, and, together with instni- ments, two log books, and a statement of what had been done by the expedition and the prospects of the present partv renc Ii- ing either a vScotch whaler at Cape York, or some of the Danish Hi arty meal, f the liord, to exaiiiiiu' itious rcla- 1 to Port d. It had le wood of ted and re- tone. The >s of glass, iris House ats, which as allowed 1 the ship's ! earefullv away, and ^r, ground- the south. her upper e, it being lie autumn .30" north, ptaln I hill itli instru- been done irtv reach- he Danish ^4^, U^n- K x-2 ten ^■r Jfc'sJ JtT '-- ■^"'^''^i^tot . . Wm J^B^^l^^l^ . ' 7. <1(»0 ►«r .. , ' ' ' . . a tlio 5^^,i«Sft»l«*««:.%r.. * * fc- r /, •* con '■S. >. 4) J ? a x ha o .— o = - J3 ^ 6 o u ;;: 00 S- oo ? • '-' 1 0. J .2 -*-» -Id '^ « .• T3 i; ■— ■** QJ ■£? o. "^ 5C; W •/ 2*^ >> -J rt . CQ § .s ^ «? -3^ J< i n .£ t ^ tt > c = IK tT >. F'S a.-- J J 7 u / -c 1 *J i •— ^ o . t 5° 35' west. The rescued par .y received fr(,m the crew of the "Kavenscraig" g(>„„in(« Scotch hospitality and also with gratitude the information iMt the ice-tlo<> i,arty under C^iptain Tyson had been picked up by ( aptam Hartlett of the "Tigress." Shortly afterwards the "Ravenscraig" proceeded to Lancas- ivv hound and Barrow's Strait, where the whaling-v(^ssels, the Arctic, Captains Adams and Markham; the "Intrepid " (^n> tain Soutar, and the "Eric," Captain Walker, assisted'in en- t^ertaimng the rescued men and in giving them passage t(, Dun- deo, whence all ivturned to the United States in October (»f the same year— -1873. Of the above-mentioned British officers we shall learn more "oncerning Captain Markham in succeeding pages. While Captain Buddington and party were thus being cared 838 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; for by (heir j;(»iu'n)us loscuors, Uic United Stales (lovornmont was not idle in prosecutiiij; search for them. Upon the arrival of llie ice-tloe party in NVashinj;tou, tlie owners of tlie "Tigress" offered her to the Navy I)e])artnu'nt for tlie i)urpose of seek- ing the remainder of the ])arly. The proposition was accepted, and, accompani((l by the Muniata," Commanders (Jreer and Hraine resju'ctively, proceeded to the West (Jreenland waters. On board the "Jnniata" was Lientenant (J. W. De Long, whose after history anre of tliis coal to be eonsunu.l in an, given time to produce a nun anica In n't^r u ''^' r^ ''''''' -^-^^ '^^^ --^ - bit un-n;:;;: i^ Its natuu. It pr<,duces very little smoke, of a br(»wnish color and requn.es but little labor in stokin,. The best n^..^ s obtained, are from a thick and level lire "While in this locality several veins were f(,und which in- dicated good coal, and large quantities of it; s<. easily was the -al mined that our n.en, nine in number, would have removed and carried to the beach one hundred tons in eight davs with the tools which we used." These mines were located upon the Waigat-the strait Iv- .ng between the island and the mainland on the north-a slu.rt distance from the beach and at an elevation of about one hun- dred feet above the sea. The "Juniata" preceded the "Tigress" to New York about r, ''T'^'"* "*'* ^'''''^ previously been confirmed of the safety of the Tolaris" party on board the whaling- vessels n. i!''"^, ^'""^^'^y ^"*'^*^ the expedition so sorrowfully begun. Ut the thirty-four persons related to the enterprise proper, all hut one-Its deeply lamented brain, and heart, and soui; the intrepid Hall, were restored to health and home. They had not been unmindful of Him who controlled their destinies, in their religious devotions, and He had not deserted them in peril. But for the untimely death of Hall it can scarcely be doubted that he would have achieved wonderful success Even as It was, he advanced farther north than ever yet man had Sone. With him the myth of the open polar sea disapi)eared ; Kobeson Strait, the great ice-hydra of the North (Jreenland Arctic, was made to take its place, and geographical science became enriched by a generous contribution with which the donor also freely gave a consecrated life. Botanv, geolo-v astronomy, meteorology-all received persistent devotion bv enthusiastic assistants. But perhaps greater than all else was 840 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the knowledge of the Eskiuios of that region— those hardy, but affectionate, MOST DISTANT DWELLERS OF THE NORTH, that Highland newt of "untamed eagles," as Hall had styled them, and whom he loved so long and so well. Surely, as there is in the (heat Beyond a plaee for every tribe and nation, will this humane raee nu'et there a gallant Franklin, a lion-hearted Parry, a eourageous Me(Mure, a chival- rous Kane, and an heroic Mall— unsullied array of Christian champions who nuiy indeed sing from over the battlements of Heaven, "Waft, waft, ye winds. His story And yoii, yc waters, roll, Till, like a sea of glory. It spreads from pole to pole." LIKUTEHANT CHARLES W, ClUft, U S.N. DR. J. M AMDLEK, U.S N. OR, LIFE IN THE OIIEAT WHITE WOW-U. 311 CHAPTER XXXV. THE DISCOVERY OF FRAXZ-JOSEK LAND. luced nay,Kat„rH t,. keep away fr,,,,, tl„. i,-o.„a,-k nf Ea"t lliei. the A. stnans .s,„iKht and fo„n,l an a,-,e.,»ible j;ate,v„y t„ "tped.tl, u uniler the j„i„t eouiniaii.l „f Lieutenants 'iver nil Weyprecht, each of when, had seen se.viee ,,! a . vio Oermaa e.xpediti,,,,, was sent ont in .1, , 177 n s "hUff vessel, the "Isbj-.rn," „nt r,n fee, i„ le ,. 1 7 n w fth of forr;.o;:'a\;,;^' :;;;;;';'?■■■■:''-■■■'■"■ '"-i^H"^ The tesnlts of ,l„. vo.va«e were l,i,.,l, sail, '.etorv. it was shown, • • '^ii^^:^:::=;c:s.:::^ north irart it was only 100 fatlionis deep trate'the t '"'" m"'" '""''''" ^^^"■'^'''""^ 'l.ad failed to pene- ivea in the ,oe too early in the season— before the i,.. i...,i Pu'h'':,^"";',^"''"*""'^ '-•'-- »-'n.n power. '" "■'"' P.f.11. That the gulf .stream appeared to have great intlu- 342 TUB SEARCH FOR THE NOUTH POLE; encein woakciiiii^ tUv ici- in that iv^-iun. The iiiain cxptMlltioii wuH thcrcfoi'o ut once fitted out iimlcr the uanic of 1h»' AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN KXPEDITION. The vessel st'ciired was the "Te};t'ltho(lV' h small st earner of onlj 220 tons, havliij,^ a steam eiijrliie of lOOhoise power. She carried fuel and provisions for two and a half years, beiu}; overburdened by about thirty tons. Hut even then, says Lien- tenant Payer, the hist(uian of the voya<;(', she was "far nior<' eonimodious than the niisenibie l.ole in whirh eif^ht of us had been crowded to^-ether on our <.i'eenhind tour." The plan was to penetrate the ice extendin}^ to Nova /end>hi durinj»- the latter part of August, and to establish headcpnir- tei's aceordinj- to eircunistance.s and in ease of the loss of the «liip, to o'ain the interior of Siberia by the use of row-! mts. No eommunieation with Europe was to be depended upon. Says Payer: "The motives of an undertakinj^ so lonjr and laborious can- not be found in the mere love of distinction or adventure. The ubject must not be the admiration of men, but the extensi(>n of the domain of knowledj^c. The «,n'andeur of one's i)uri)OHe alone can support him, for otherwise the dreary void of thinj^s Avithout can only be an imaj?e of the void within." Sailino from liremerhaven on the 13th of .Tune, 1S72, the "TenfettholT" took her final departure a few days later, from the northern Norwej>ian port of Tromsoe, and was soon in Arctic ice. The crew, numberinj; twenty-four, consisted of (lermaus, Italians, and Hungarians, the orders being' {-iven in Italian. On Auj,nist 1st the vessel became beset in latit ude 74° 39', longitude .^)3''. On the next day she broke throu<«h into a. belt of open water snrroundin<; Nova Zembla. Rehind her was a field of ice 10,") miles wide. Sailinji- northward along the west coast of Nova Zembla, the staunch little vessel came to another ice field near latitude 75° 30'. In this vicinity on the 12th of Angust another vessel was suddenly descried on the horizcm. It proved to be their oM friend, the "Isbjorn." She had been chartered and despatched OR. r.IPR fN TMR fiUrOAT WHITE WORLD. 343 by tho K<.h,.ons pafron «.f H xp..,liti„„, ronni Wilcz^.k, fop (h piirpoNc of (Icpositiiij. a .supply „f , noiili- otliiis," near Caiu' Nassau, on il ^niallasaiiiii^r(.,..,n Hhould I were ^n-atly astonished that so a dist anco )(' able to pcnct rate the ur to such On the 18tli th of the Kin^ and I ny. 1 1 . o crews of both vessels ceIebra(«*r,Teast. "Ominous were th '('{.vllhoir" was etlec- Ico-barrier, in latitude Hi" 22', loii<.il ude o events of that see our vessel In water. week; then at tl pcctcd it hourly, then dailv, then fi our deliveran( weather, then in the cl 10 seasons of tin. v,.ar and y ,,tU.r „^IZ siii „.;:., """'"■""-' "■"'■^""""'■'•"f 1873 ai«o,«»so,i,;ured together by the sound of the ship's bell, in all that grave simplicity which marked the worship of the early ( liristian Church." The sun was absent 125 days and during that time sixty- seven ])olar bears were killed, furnishing the party with an abundance of fresh meat. M(n'cury renuiined frozen nuiny days at a time, brandy being solid. On one occasion the dog "Ma-tosch-kin" Avas killed and eat- en by a bear. A few hours later "Sumbu," who had witnessed the fate of his fellow-dog, led some of the men to the place where were found the bones of the jtoor dog, and the bear near by them. The shaggy brute was immediately slain, much to the delight of "Sumbu." Concerning the dogs used on this expedition it is interesting to learn something more. Two of them were brought from Lajjland, the rest from nnich farther south. During the beset ment and drift of the vessel, on one occasion the dogs in great alarm betook them- selv(^s to a lot of chests and stared at the huge, angry waves of iee as they ros(» and roared; every trace of the fox had dis- ai)pear<'d fr<»m "Sumbu" and he timidly and humbly ottered his ])aw to all passers by; the Lapland dog "Pekel" licked Lieu- tenant Payer's hand and looked at the ice as if to ask, "What does all this confusion uu'an?" while the larg<» Newfound- landej's stood motionless, like scarc^l cliamoi, on ihe ])iles of chests. Of the other dogs there were "Jubinal," the red giant, with OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 347 paws as Huge as those of a bear, and who had been brought by a Siberian Israelite from the north of Asia, over the Ural, anil so powerful that he was the victor in every light and could easily draw four men on a sled oVer a hard level surface; everv summer he changed his coat and was then clad in a dress of eanvas-cloth; and "Bop," the weak, but wise one; "Ma-tosch. iviu, the grave, whose fate we noted above, and who, for hours at a time, would sit upon a pile of chests looking demurely upon the great white wilderness; the two Newfoundland bitches No-vay-a" and "Zem-ly-a," the iirst of which died in the ('ourse of the first year, the second, too lazy to , but invariably hid ^hen the other dogs were b(Mng hitched into the sledges; a J,^reedy and dissatisfied being he, whose redeeming <,ualitv ^as to be found only in his i„to„se hatred „f bears ^^ith the advent of the spring ..f 1S74 sl.Mlging parties, un- •ler the immediate c( mnmnd of Lieutenant Paver, began the work of exploring the coast-line and the Iniovuiv of Ihcrne.vlv- m^ir' '^"^ :^^'^ «^«* ''f ^'-- -^tart.l on the 10th of Mauh. raveling in a northwest direction, Hall Island was discovered and named and (^ap(^s TegetthofT and Mc(Mintock were designated. They were fouml to be 2,500 f(>et hi< 1. No signs of life wore met with, but tlu> party were absent Tn/lv six ♦lays. On the lOth THE FIRST DEATH among the members of the expedition occurred. It was poor 218 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Kriscli, the oujiiiiccr, whose cnuu'iatcd body, worn away by n pulmoiiaiy complaint, was soiTowfiilly placod iu a coffiu, cov- ered with a tlag aud a cross, and (U'posited iu a fissure between basaltic coluiims aud theu covered with stoues— his the first aud perhai)S the only huuiau j>rave iu all that desolate laud. On the 24th Payer crossed the channel sei)aratiuj;' the two uiaiu divisions of Franz-Josef Land, namely, Wilczek aud Zichy islands. The channel was named Austria Sound. Uere wei-e observed the terraced beaches containing the debris of organic remains— undoubted evidence of the gi'adual elevatiriug back, aud see- ing the dark abyss beneath me, I could not doubt that I should be precipitated into it the next instant. "A WONDERFUL PROVIDENCE arrested the fall of the sledge; at a depth of about thirty feet OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 349 it .Struck just between the sides of tbo crevasse, just as I was being dragged to the abyss by its weight. The sledge havin.^ jannned itselfin, I lay on n.v stomach close to the awful brinir, the rope which attached n.e to the sledge tightly strained, an the tent where most of the men were and all then ran to the scene Cf disaster, finding the unfortunate driver nearly dead but suf- ficiently conscious to be pulled up over the ice-cliff. The do-s were uninjured and lay quietly asleep besirie their master. I I»on being pulled up they made great demoustration of their gratitude. Speaking of the driver, Payer writes: "It was A NOBLE PROOF Ii,'l'Yh.u h'' f 7"'""/'»«-t tl'""«elv,.« even in such situa- 0^, hTT ," " ;•''"""••''"*' b"t thanks, ac -"t-r reeans a pers,f„a, ^x- r^ •";'*"" ""'"" "■■•""■^' ""•■" '•■•'«••<''>«. f".' the purpose of obta.mng „,easnpe.nents, the great Bowrtoin flh.,ie ■ of North errand b; Lieutenant Peary, witli the Esliitnos, Ini-me-nia an.l Po.-doo.„ah as nssistantB, w-e had neared the Opposite de he great frozen river, the width of whieh we found to be near I.V two miles, an.l were endeav.,ring to make our wav to a point .m the rowning roek wall about one hundred vart ,li t- n pon wh.eh the bor.ler of the glacier was in.piuging in wih ■onfusion Beneath our feet a eontinuous tren.blin.. sensa' t".n was felt as the long ice tnass of the higher slope^pressert •igninst that port:.." upon which we were standing, fearin.. to n.ove lest some unfo, tunate step might involve us in immedrate 360 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; disaster. Quick, sliaiij, deep-tingliuy-, riuyiug, shrieking' souuds frigbUul euougii, tame, uot as souud usually does, liorlKontall v, but vei'ticalJy up to our ears, seeniiug to vibrate tlirougli oui* feet, our limbs, our very bodies, spitefully shouting in our ears: Why, presumptuous man, hast thou set disturbing foot upon my chaste bosom? Beware! Beware! Beware! Split— jiu,,],. —crash— Off ! Away! Away! Who wouid not have been alarmed? With deep, subdued tones peculiar to the hardy dwellers of the north the natives first gave expression to their feelings and then burst into the oft-repeated exclamations, "Ca-pe Wung-ah! Ca-pe Wung-ah!" —"I am afraid! I am afraid!" and although individual danger was lessened by means of a long ag-loo-nah, or line of walrus hide, fastened, at one end about the waist of Poi-doo-nah, a bright young fellow of about sixteen years, and at the middle point about the waist of old Im-me-nia, no amount of persua- sion could induce tliem to advance, as the writer endeavored to direct their movements toward a particular ])oint and in line with Lieutenant Peary's theodolite, erected on the opposite shore of the glacier, and now nearly two miles distant. Less guarded than the natives, for the reason that I followed in their tracks, I simply held the other end of the line in one hand and an Alpine-stock in the other. Suddenly Poi doo-nah dropped more than waist-deep into a snow-tilled fissure, and hardly was his alarm expressed in a round of frightful Eskimo than — Miiish! down went the snow-bridge upon Avhich the writer was standing in the very tracks made by the natives but a moment before. My feet striu-k and broke the icicles which were clinging to the edges of the crevassc-walls and away thev Avent in broken, jingling jangling confusion, striking ever anil anon against the deep walls of the K^kly dlseuguged ln,„»eif and ca.ue to the re^eue V ,1 ■ « .™ |. 1 wa» <,ver aiK. „e were at a »afe di»ta„ "•,oo I . K , „,„ „ romul l,|a,.i< h„|„ „„ t,,, „„„„. „.,,.., ^, '- r i ,. I' >:'"•""»'<■'-»" Kuil-le»«! Ah-ha! Aleha! tin K'o, imsle! jiMf;le.ja.,sle! beware! beware' hc>t "tl! '''vS'lbi'''"'';'' ^'■•""-'"«'f '."■"! 'it wa« fouad that III an^\ ()tii(»i' Arctic loca fv vet discovorp.i tiw! i Xotwilhstandins there weiv many ai„l ureal -laeier. ,ao - -eatlie,, and the ,.„,d blaek wa„« were often s 1 're t"^;^ 'of'thi '"' '" '":• ^■--rt'»"-« there were f. •orati, , V ; " ' """"■"«" "Pix-itif.'lia. sih-ne aeaulis, AItli.,uoh neither reindeer nor nnisk-(.x was seen tliev -u: t;^ "f^^^ t ^''""''-T»--^"3' - the weste.::^;n ;, ; . onp fresh tracks and the excrements of foxes w(4'e s. ^al^- 1:;':, at^ rier,., too, were seen many i.el.erss, aial a.s bnt few are ever I on, hale hat they came fr,m, som,. nndiseovered lan.l Ivin.v north of Fran..Jo.ef Land, and therefore nearer the pole. Ic :i 962 THE SEAIlCIl iron TME NdllTII roLE; '• ''"«'■>■• "■'"' "•'"" 'l«'"P i"l<'.v«t OVCT.V W<.„,l to AlVlic ,v. il"^,'™sr w",' r"""',"'''"""' '■'■"'" '"■• ^'■''""^'^■'' """ ""• J"^-!"''"- tmu. Ihe wnte.. coulWouU^- <..m.-c1» «uece«,f„l i,.s„i(.s fn„„ lionlr'i.f'M," '">"• r ' "l"'" """"" ''"■" '■■^l'''"''" ""'' "" 'I '•' .mal „f „.,.,.,.«„,.„ i„ „,,i,.|, .„. ..,„"«.■■« .,,.1,1 ,l„.i; i„ , •' '' '"""« "!'■ I.V xp^t l«„ «•!,.(,.,.« in tlu. i,.,. ii w,s , <• ,Mve (h,. "TracKI,,,/)" iml f,. I ,1 • by ,„„„,« „f sle,i„,. a,m,,.,a| '"'' "'""' "'"^^ *""" mrtl wert ,..,a», „f ,i,. |„„„, „„. -,v,„j, „,»„, „„t ,,„,,, ,,„„„^.„.,,_ ,,^^.;, .„^7,.,„,„.,,,^ ; lo ,,,,,«.,,,,, ,.,„„ te„ wm, »„ „„„.„ „„.,, ,„„, , < „„,,.,„. ion fill, ,,ct joyous ,l,.pa,-t,iro. Aft,.r haviiit; »(,.„,rj,|,,i „„,,,, wa,.d fo,- two months a s„„tl, win.l arose nn,r,.,..,v,rr , , " n,,rthwar,l to a position but nine n.ilos so„tl, of ti„. sl,i "n , A, CtTo"""." h' "'™'"'"' ''"" """■^ P>-"I>Hi,.«»an.l ti„'mtl, of Angnst fonnd tlien, i„ latitu.le Tr 49'-f,.,.o of ioo and on tl„. I>leasant waters of Nova Zenibla Sea. But tlie POOR DOGS— ther,. was no room for tlioni in tlie boats, an,l witl, ,le,.p sorrow kin IZ,! ' ""■•' '""' '"■'"' "" '"""""^' "■'''■" '"^"K"-' "■ (■o.^s,' '™K*'''. "» '1"^' 24tl, of August, wl,e„ near (ianse, or <()««", Lam], m tl,e southern part of Nova Zembia, two I us- s.an vessels hunting for flsh an,l Nova Zen.b.a reimlee e . eue, th,Mn, an,l on tl,e 3,1 of S,.pten,ber they were lan,i;,l „t ^..,1,,, >,„.way, where, two days later, thev embark,.,! for Ilaniburg „n,l in ,lne tin,,. land,.d an,ong their eountrv n,.n wh,, re,.eived th,.,n with patrioti,. ,le,„onst;ations I,""' Before leaving this ehapter let us ll,ank Li,.nt,.:"nt W.y. pr,.ehtl^,,r,l„.skillf„l n,nnn,.rin whi,-!, h,.,„anag,.d ll„.,„ i t.o„ of (,„. "Tegetthoft," an,l also the .Norwegian walrus- T, - --'^■n^^i.--l^, o Ai'ctic IV- lie Jacksou- cr tlu' (nics- 'osuMn from 1(1 iiaiiicd in sli;;lil tcsli- K'ii' fi-iciHls, il was (Ic- wa.v soiilli onfy years iH'c" on the cii- rcd'cal. its and the k (heir sot'- ;I<'(1 sontli- Iicm aj^ain ship. Tin- tli('15fli()f 111(1 on the 'op sorrow obliged 1() <}anse, or tAVO liiis- ideor, res- laiidod at urked for nitryiiicii, j'reat joy. nnt W<>y- ic navi_i>ii- !nis-liniif- Lieut. R. E. Peary, C. E., U. S. N. (SeeChiiprerXLll.) Little Auks on Sea Ice. iSi'i- imifc S3."), etc.) <'r, Ski PIMM- ('a,-! OR, LIKE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 36a s« note tluit it was h,. n| •I, for his able nsHist. »"<•«'; and let UH uIho covered oij tho uoi-nicast '"'*•" '''•'^'^'•ofS,.p(,.,nl,o,-, l^<7 the I ninsof Haiviirs'I '•<''••-< of Nova Z(.mhh.,i,Hatitudo7(r •^'x \vi(i(s and fllh'd wit) 'oiisc, a I'ooIh'HSNh'iKd "•^i*'>«'>sJ)oxos,h(M,ks,(.tc,and as may be vciifjcd by \ '""••^o of I ho „ld iro-nil " H'o and onivj.] ,.„„| "otcii fret h»n '«> iiuinn hoiischohl whicli he .sold for KLSOO VH'Wili;.- (he ((dh'ct crowns. Mai'khani writ pilot at The II "on in the restored cs: aiiiio K'cfei i'«"«' to this, «v N o ni in had entered the h,nelvdw(dl diseoverersojouriMMldu inM where the fan thi ce centnries. T] '■inji Ihelouo ■^viuterof mjH; f, lon.s plaee, the old eiock ...... 'I''inkin«-v,.ssels, iheinst 'cre sto.xl tile cookin-pan •«ain.st the wall, tl )r nearly ovei' the fini. i, tlio arms, the to.ds, th( "'<' weary iiours of that I '"•ncnts and the books that 1 "'<' niosttonchino. relic is tl <»n«,Mnht27r». years b(>for(.. iv,h '■' little cabin-lM '<* pair of small si loes. '<'Ms ns, durinji' tl 'yanHmotheerew,whodied,as( Thei >oi;niled 'o was III «• been left behind. Tl IliJit poor boy, which still K' winter. This a ceo lore was a flute, t , as ( Jerri t de Ver lints for the shoes h, av «ives(»nt a few notes." •o, once played by flEOKUEW.„K,.v,U,,c,„tKlS.:,.VEU,,„,„. UEUTENiNT JOIIV w DA.VENHOWEB. D.i 864 THE SEARCH FOll THIS NOllTIl 1' OLE; CHAPTER XXXVI. THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION OF 1875-O. FaNt l<»siiii«- her hini'dly f«.i. fi. i- "f ""HI,,.,,, l,M„ls„,i , , ""■ .•''■"'■""■'■.v a».l ,.x,,l,„.ati„u """I "-'■ .., ,',■,'" .::"■".""•■ "'>■'-' i»"i"", Hn. "'•" «l,i,.| , """" ^'"""X""" "■"'» .l,..l,.(l,a,.f,v e",,: „"'•;„;:,:;;" "f "'" ""■ ™'i'- i-n„„ • 'M">''l„s„„, |„.,.si(l,,,t „f Ml,. I!„v„l J^^Hs .onli.nu.I unaI».«ta,n,aft,.nva..li- I'ctic snl»- l>y iiiajiv iK-lion (u 'iini-sl()(i|) K' slcaiii- ■oiniiiaiid Icrt" was OR. LIFR IN TMK GRRAT VVHITR WORLD. sr.fi '7;.»"'"bmMl 120, many of whom hml service Hcen pn'vioiiH Arctic %ni(.24Hi(»f.j„| «»f Melville Hav. li y, lS7r», |)()tli v(..sHeF a VI aci ■«»>^N niinin'M J{av, wl MM Nleained to Mie noi-fl 'n Were lievond the i iw<'st fn»iii I>i • ••'Mti-al ic "'•'^ <»•« Hie date nieniioned. tl ce SCO. th <'.v succeeded in | i;'«<''< was struck, hut wlnVh, i„ j| , tile areat hefor for A ><>rinH:throuo|, fj 'i''ty-four houi ■<*accompIisl.eh('r, the I "JiUNt 24 th, I he ships Lady Franklh, I{ "•lit reache.l hv Ilj, arrived in safety at lU '''""f •' «"od harhorsh(dt,.r;.,l hv ^'•anklin IJay ^ y«'s in iSdO. IJoundinn' an island was found in musk cutti '*, «'P<'aceful|y n,..,zi owino- nM»rniiin, was seen a herd (,f n«<>n the fresh A ret secured and at t<»her thirty-two of tl flesh «>i'«' time more than a to nine ic vej^etation. '«'«<' animals had been ^vas hannino. f,.,,^^^.,, ^^ Peared and remained al »'* "•^<'. On this (lav tl " and a half of tl leir 'I)i ten scovery" remained f •Pf'J'atiire of the I, '•^«*"t l.T. days, hi this harl •'''>^«''iinfortenamlahalfmontl "' sun en, «'Ji'y'« limit by sled -e in is2 (, VIZ. di a narrow lane of "inel the .sea and land- ^appeared, the ln»,„M|.f, >vater which, off ( bpins thereby Ji'reat ic«. mass( ico were separated •P<' Sheridan, entiivlv >•' northern exit int(» the I <'om,,let(dy N.cked by tl o lar sea '•' union of the two Th e ( "loshelviuL'led '7'»«t-i, e was in the form of feet and f? '('does which rose h .iJi«Ji<'d paraj)et, frin S'lnu' U were broken h '•'"''^■<''*«'«<''H'i«htof twent aving- pa.ssed the north <^re and there by deep, gljsl ' northeast nninf ..e /^ ■•«t point of (Jrant LamI, wh (Ml in '•ravines. ich 356 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Hayes had so longed to reach, Nares found, not an "open polar sea," but instead a "SEA OF ANCIENT ICE," of great age and of great thickness; for, in place of being five or six feet thick, as had been the case of the new floes, or ten or twelve feet of the old floes encountered in the channel, it rose to a height of fifteen or twenty feet above the sui-face of the water and had a total depth of from eighty to one hun- dred twenty feet, and resembled a connected chain of low, flat-topped icebergs. In the midst of such ice, where the sub- merged portion extending to the land left a sufficient water- way for the ship, the "Alert" found safe winter-quarters and was soon frozen in by the newly-formed shore ice. On the 21st of September, Lieutenant Aldrich, accompanied by Adam Ayles, left the "Alert" with two sledges drawn by dogs, to lay out a route round Cape Joseph Henry, on the north side of Grant Land, for a large party which was to follow. On the 25th Commander Markham, with Lieutenants Parr and May, started with three sledges to establish a depot of pro- visions to the northwestward as far as might be found prac- ticable. On the 27th Aldrich and Ayles reached latitude 82° 48', and from the summit of a mountain two thousand feet high, des- cried a wide expanse of land to the northwestward as far as 83° 7', with high mountains on the south. They returned to the ship on the 5th of October. After an absence of nineteen days Markham's party also re- turned. They had established a depot in latitude 82° 44' and traced the coast two miles farther to what may be considered the exact latitude reached by Parry, north of Spitzbergen, near- ly a half century before. The thermometer ranged, during this trip, from 15° to 22° below zero. The party numbered twen- ty-four men, eight of whom were severely frost-bitten. MeauAvhile, Lieutenant Rawson sought to communicate with the "Discovery," in Lady Franklin Bay. The ice in the channel, however, was found rotten and unsafe within nine miles of the ship and piled up thirty feet high along the shore, OR. LIFE IN THE GRKA't WHITE WORLD. 357 the deep snow-drifts in the ravines also rendering the over- laud route impassable. iuJm! ''T^'''' '^''' '^'''^ pleasantly passed on both vessels. Of th(, hf y-five men composing the crew of the "Alert" only two could be found who could not read. Besides a school for L atiical entertainments arranged for the enjoyment of all issntT'n "'''"' '""'"^^ ^ I^""*'°S Pr^««' «"^1 f»>>'" these were Zlei's! otc!"'"'''"''' ^'"' '' '"'" '" ''' "''^'^'"""^ "^ ^'^-^^t On November 5th, the anniversary of the "Gunpowder plot," ^Ui ,< awkes was burned in effigy upon the ice. Oil the 9th of November Captain Nares writes: io-day the moon reappeared above the southern horizon lier movements are so important to us that a monthly bulletin IS published giving the precise account of when she will ai>- pear and when depart. She is truly the 'presiding goddess' of he ong Aretic night; reflecting, during the event of her visit, the light of the totally absent sun for ten consecutive davs and nights as she circles round the heavens without ever s^ttiu- During some part of her stay, full moon occurs, and she displays woufdT' f 1 r^\ ^' *'" ''"^^ ^' °^^ "^««°' ''^^'- ^^' lig^t uould be of least value, she i. absent in southern latitudes." iHristmas was spent as is here related: "First of all, in the moraing we had Christmas waits in the mX .;n?.r'- t '"^''"* "' ""'^""^^' ''''' ^■''''' boatswain's »»ate, and three others, went around the ship singing Christmas oarols suited to the occasion, and made a special s^iy out'de Uie captain's cabin. On the lower deck in the forenoon tl ^ere prayers, and after that, captain and officers visited t^ e mess in the lower deck, tasted the pudding, inspected the dec' orations which had been made, and so on. Then the BOXES OF PRESENTS by friends in England were brought out, the name of him for and the presents were then distrihnf^^ by ^^p rsrf-^- — ^58 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ing cheers, wliieli soiiiided strange enough in that lone phiee, were given for the donors, some of them very dear indeed to the men who were so far awa.y from their homes. Cheers were also given for the captain, and for absent comrades on the "Alert." A choir was then formed, and 'The lioast Beef of Old Eng- land' had its virtues praised again." Fresh meat was had in abundance on each ship. Fish, beef, and mutton bi-ought from England hung upon the masts^ frozen hard. Sheep had also been brought and these were killed from time to time. HUNTING PARTIES were also quite successful. Those from the "Alert" secured SIX nnisk-cattle, three foxes, twenty hares, ten ptarmigans, twenty-six ducks, and seventy geese. Those from the "Discovery" were even more successful, es- pecially as relates to securing musk-oxen, hares, and seals. On the 29th of February the sun reappeared. On March 12th Lieutenants Egerton and Rawson, with , Christian Petersen, the interpreter, attempted to open com- munication with the "Discovery," but returned on the l(>tl, Petersen having completely broken down. His hands weiv paralyzed and his feet so badly frozen that it became necrs- sary to amputate them. Three months later the unfortunate man died. Somewhat later the attempt was resumed with two sea- men, this time with success, and the coiijx^ration of sledge par- ties from both vessels thereafter established. PROM THE "DISCOVERY" an exploring party of eight men under Lieutenant Beaumont crossed Kobeson (^lannel on the broken and moving ice and explored the Orcpuland coast to latitude 82° 18'. Two of the men died of scurvy before reaching Polaris Bay. ILiving reached the limit of Ids journey, Beaumont turned toward the sliip, but four more of the men soon vielded to fatigue. The three not disabled now hauled not only their lese were OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 353 four exhausted comrades hut .ii«,. fi Pledge, makiug the ,'„man ,ft,? "™*?""»' "" " -"S'lc same piece uf m,ml i! , "-' ""'' ""'<■'•' "^«- ""■ loads. Saj.«L,"I: ' ''"'■'"*'' ""•■ ''""''•' '° ^^Po-'-te .i.e; m:rr:,:'ra''H;"bu:':' """r""^- """■"'''' "'-""' » ^ "r muL a uaj, Out iiever losino haart " pio^eTrnTtt' " '^"^■' ''»"^- "-'-'"^' <-' «at.„„, D. Cop- FAMOUS ESKIMO HANS, or tJie Kane, llavf^s mwI ii..n ,. . savc.u,,eh. /ivtr '^,; "^,, .'"" f l'".l't'.m», '<'""m8erexph,4nvt;™ r^,-i;;;,r"'"f '"'.'""■'^ """ '"•• <'"P- a deep slaeier front t ' ' '^"""'' " '" tein.inate in 132 da;». • ^"^ "'"■•^' ''"'""'"«' ""«<'« from the «hip r" .ftenaTL?''*'" ^»"'" «""" '"»' «•■'» """«>• Us i.e:;rrt',itei Deris' .:r;'i' ?'"'"" ''"^- """ '"-" ■aountains and gIad!::fl';M";'.;i;;;',:" ''■ «'"™-'J«'<' "y lofty FROM THE "ALERT" -xcept /he't:; ■;;:;::'::;' XtH;"""'"^' '" "'«"' "'■>-'' 1"" was foMnuatelv met 1 ■? ' . ^ ""* ' """ '''''"™ aasistinhanIin-f„„,.,iL,i ' "'•'■ "'"' »''"' "ble to iia.Muon;b;the:i;,f,:;'';;:;;'r:,;:''''''-'«-"'"-t-strug. nan™;,'""'* "'^^ '" '"" ''"■'"'- J^"--.v - "ow to be related, over the sea-iee "^'"'''^"■^ ^'•'=°«'= "™ney the enoiiu^ors and tivont,. : i ! ' ' ^^ '"^*'' ""^^ «f four 8ledcvos pnci, ,i.... «•, ' i ""^^^ consisted c.f 360 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Wide, and about niiie-teutlis of a ton of provisions to each sJedge. For the fli'st few days good pixjoress was made. Upon reaching the depot of provisions left at Cape Joseph Henry in the previous season the party were rearranged, Marlihaiu and 1 arr pushing on over the rough and liuminoclcy "sea of ancient lee ' witli fifteen men and three sledges. The difiiculties of the journey will be inferred from a few of Markham's journal entries: "April 10th: Distance made good, one mile; distance inarched, seven. "12th. 1^ made good; 9 traveled. "17th. 1^ made good; 9 traveled. "18th. 1 mad^e good; 10 traveled and ten hours to do it" On the 19th, one of the boats, weighing eight hundred pounds, was left behind, it being necessary to lighten the loads ov/ing to the disablement of two of the men by an attack of the scurvy, thus making it necessary to haul them. Upon quitting the boat its inast was decorated with red cloths to serve as signals upon the return of the party. Thus the snail-like journey was continued. Says Nares- ' The journey was consequently an incessant battle to over- come ever-recurring obstacles, each hard-worn success stimu- ating them for the next struggle. A passage-way had always to be cut through the squeezed-up ice with pickaxes, an extra one r)eing carried for the purpose, and an incline picked out of the perpendicular side <.f the high floes, or roadwav built un before the sledges-general ly one at a time-could be brouoj.r on. Instead of advancing with a steady walk, the usual means of progression, more than haif of each day was expended bv the whole party facing the sledge and pulling it forward a few feet at a time." On the 30th of April a dense fog was encountered and threatened to entangle them in a labyrinth of hummocks. They, however, struggled on for t(^n days, when a stop was made and a camp for the invalids established and left in charge or the cooks. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 361 On the 12tli Markhan, aii,l I'a.r a^-uiu sot out with hu,1, of the men as wei-c able to venture forwar.I, in oi-der to nialio a (lash for the liighest jxiiut attainable. Tliis last march is tlius related by llarkliani: "We had .s»u,e very severe walking, throuRl, whieh the lab,)i of draggmg a sledge would be interminable, and occa- sionally almost disappearing througli cracks and Ussuies, nu- ',li7™, ^ "•"'""''' '" """"■ «■'"'" » •""' »"s called. The aitificial horizon was set up, and the FLAGS AND BANNERS WERE DISPLAYED, these flnttering out bravely before a southwest .wind, which latter h„„.ever, was .lecidedly cold and unpleasant. It noon oL ; off , "'f ' •"■""'■•'-' *'"■"" '"""'■■<''' '""' ""'rtynine and one-hal n„les from the North Pole. On this being duly an nonnced three cheers were given, with one more for raptain Nares; then the whole party, in the e..ubei.ance of their' ph"ts laving rea,.ed their turning point, .sang 'The Union J cU "f O 1 Knglnnd,' by the grand paleocrysti,- sledgin., ,.h„rns «-.nd,ng up, like loyal subjects, with '(i<,d Save the Qu'en" " :::iJ;::;i:;;;;^^^^^^n.y „,,.« „„,„ ,, „.„„^ Jj- ^ snh"atWu/^lT*,'""" ■""' ^"" "■'■'•'' <■"«'•'■ *"'!">* "". but the near 1 " ," '""'' "'^""'"' """° " ''P^'^'ly reJnru, for uea ly all of the men were stricken with the scurvy. Fomed Tthe TnlTr' •""„ *"»''P""'""'^ near rape Joseph Hen,^ for he ..omfort of his men. Parr set out alone for the "VlerT'' "."■t.v m.les dis,ant. Sti.unlated with the .-onscio isness t nt "pon Ins e..e,.tions depende,] the lives of the str ' C nen In u. n!;';rPoiur!;'; *;'' ;"" f " ^•■■'*"" ^"^^^ -■"» -"> ^i- «-av May M • . '"' """'' '" " "■"""•"S P^'^.v. Lienteuant senf/ . ' " ''™"'""- "ith a light dog sM"e were »ent forward as a lightlyequipped advance partly amrrearhed 362 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the camp fifty hours from Parr's departure. In that short interval George Porter, one of the afflicted, had died and was buried in the snow. No other life was lost. Of the fifteen men who, two months before, had left Depot Point, only three were able to assist in dragging back the sledges; nine had to be hauled and three struggled alono- of themselves. Meanwhile, Captain Stephenson, of the "Discovery," crossed Kobeson Channel and, in the presence of twenty-fo'i-r officers and men, on the 18th of May, erected at Hall's giave the brass tablet referred to in preceding pages. It was indeed a graceful act and one that all Americans gratefully acknowl- edge. In taking leave of the narrative of tlie Nares expedition it IS interesting to note that close to Cape Beechey, six or seven miles from the eiglity-second parallel of latitude, were found the MOST NORTHERN TRACES OF MAN yet discovered. These were a stone lamp, a very perfect snow- scraper made of walrus tusk, and the framework of a large wood sledge. Upon the return of Markliam's sledging party, Captain Nares returned to p]ngland, arriving there October 27, 187(1, after an absence of sixteen months, wilh both ships in good' condition and with a loss of but four men. Captain Nares proved himself to be a brave and efficient officer. With Kellet and McClintock he had seen previous ser- vice in tlie search for Franklin. The expedition under his immediate command must be granted to have been a marked success, only a few closet critics, paper philosophers, and ne'er do anything navigators, urging the contrary. The only possible criticism that may be offered lies in tli(> fact that the men of the expedition liad not been fortified against the attacks of tlie scurvy as had been the officers. Had they continued in as good condition as the officers it is not party to search folTt ,"'"";' r"f^'? *" "S""'- « voyage. I„ this he reeei e,r "'* "' '"-""klm's last Presideat„fti,e lelr'n i ' si . T'" ""™ "' •'•'"*^'' ^<"y' '■ation to be detaileTl C^ , 7'"*^' "'"" ''"l"''''''*' '"« appli- This .as r.j;'^:::^';:;t::::!^^zT' ^^''""'-- PRIVATE SUBSCRIPTIONS I'aving provided the neeessarv nrnv,-.; Messrs. Morrison and Brown «hfn ^'''''''T. ''"^ ^^"ipm^nt, «Ii«posal of the exned tToTV r^"^"''''^^ "Eothen/'Cap^i.^F rrr;%'hr"'^^''^*^"" '^"^''--^^' ^^- 364 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ^ The exploru.g party consisted of but Ave men— Lieutenant Schwatka, in coniniand; Mi'. William II. (iilder, second in com- mand; Messrs. Klut-schak and Melms, already experieuccMl in Arctic ice, and of Joseph E-bier-I)inj,s the faithful "J„e » the ally and friend of ('aptain Hall. ^ Hefoiv sailing, Lieutenant Schwatka received the followin.^ instructions from Mr. Morrison: *" "Upon your arrival at Kepulse Bay you will prepare for .your inland journey by building your sledges and taking such provisions as are necessary. As soon as sufficient snow is on IZrZf ?;"" '''" '*"'* ^"' ^'"- William's Land and the. (Milf of Boothia. Take daily observations, ami whenever von iliscover any error in any of the charts you will correct 'l he same, marking thereon also any new discoveries you mav be fortunate enough to make." On the 7th of August, 1878, the "Eothen" reached Whale l-oint, at the entrance to Roe's Welcome. Here the explorers were soon visited by several of Hall's former Eskimo compan- ions, notably Ah-niou (the wolf), Ik-ah-mah (the tire), and Pa- pa-tew-ah, orToo-goo-lan. In this vicinity, latitude fi3° 51/ north, longitude 00° 2G' ir," west Schwatka's little band spent the winter of 1878-9, inur- ing themselves to the Eskimo mode of life, as Hall had don.' ntteen years previous. During the winter and early spring various sledge trips were made m preparation for the summer's journey TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. ^1T VtT- ^^"- ^''^'^'' "*^^*"^ *^^ ^"^»*'»^' Kin-ne-pa-toos, .1 tribe of Eskimos, many of whom had never before seen n white person. Lieutenant Schwatka also made a nreliminarv sledge journey northward. On April 1st the party, accompanied bv thirteen Eskimos men, women, and children, began the long journev northward. Ihe sledges, burdened with two and a half tons of provisions, were drawn by forty-two dogs. Six weeks later, on a branch of Back's River, a small party 611, ttPii IN THE QRPAT XXTt^rm*, UHKAT WttlTR WORLD, 345 »"t k„,.w h,„v t„ got i„ /,,,'/ ' '"■' "" *"" '""!«.« dUl l"«'aJ;tl.a(: l>o,.ks were ,, n,i f , ";;""'"■*'! """ tK-y »aw uo "- l.,.,.akh„. „p <.fXi :"',;"" '^" "» "'""■<' i-'d that, witi, liei- to siuk. *>" ""^ ""''" '■"' in lier side auU caused Somewliat later a party „f Neit-,l,il li. f(>re(t„i„g information ,.o„i,ni„.,, ^"'''' """* '""• "'e •'"•"■■ Tl,e plaee wher, e s if """ "'"^ "'»«''"""' b^ I""' """ ''='" '^•<<'r""ne,l,K',r'rt''. •'""''''' ""*• <'''P '""JfiMide Oir west. '" '""*""''' «S° »<>' north, '""'b' in June the sifo ,,f n '•"l""fn (>o.ier was reaH , 1 tk'"" "'■"''"bly «en,pie,l by '<"« \Villia„,'s l,a„d Til : """ "" ♦"" ■"'"""««1 «f AN OPEN GRAVE ""'-" --tod "I-on a flld ':'"'';'"','' '"■"^■' *"<■ "-ad of al>ly preserve,]. " '"^ P'^ket-liaudliercliief reniark- ''l">n a stone, at flie foot ,.f .1 ""'■l'l.v '>osrin,e,I silve „,„ 'l f """' ''"' <"»''"v<'ml a "■-. '-aH„« upon i^bsT,"" ,"!'""'"'•"'■" '" "'"■"- ;■"""''"' by the word ossible, t\w party advancinj; about ten n.iU^ oa.l. Jlay, and subsisting,, upon ducks, j.(H.se, and reindeer, the llesh being eaten almost as soon as killed. The use of so much raw meat brought on fr(M,uent attacks of diarrhoea. Numerous fairns, jj^-viously (Mvcted by white men, were found, but thcv contained no important relics. - ^* Ki"<'l>a« Hay were found the wnn'k of a ship's boat Cloths iron, and human bones. Portions of four skeletons were buried here. The ice now breaking up, the party were compelled to carrv everything on their backs as they marched. Terror liay was reached on August ;jd, and (m September 19th, near (iladman 1 oiiit, on Simpson's Strait, winter quarters were establishes, that it had re«inire(l "all (»f his life" in \vlii<-h to execute it, N(riui«;lit t his persever!n State mineralo«>ist of Swed the course of the next tweT:ty years he was ennam'd eitl iussian Fin- en in 1858. In ler as n seven Arctic header or jn'ominent member, in no less tlia expeditions— to Spitzberjjfen, (}reenland, Silx'rla, etc. Towards the expenses of live of these, Nordenskiold's warm friend, the wealthy Dr. Dickson, contributed liberally. Other private ;e. one of llic tivos. Its liiiation of lu' part of liiH piiiiit- t'xt'cutc il, UnilKMlt (if lifcliiiK'. 11(1 spnuiji' of wiioiii (ll.V advo- ti nations, I very. possessed IIO Ill(>i|IIS character taiiily an was of a isian Fin- 1858. In eitliei' as 'n Arctic Towards 'lend, tlie P private Samuel J. Entrikin' ^^"^" Con^ade-Eivind Astrup.* H,-r..,.,XM|. *S,.,.„, V»Ki' iOl.) 'Niiturali.st, F. W. Stokes, Aiii.-t. Eivind Astrup. Dr. E. E. Vincent, SlliK'i'cii. (SecCliiiptcr XLII.) Jas. W. Davidson. a b 2v^ W. Davidson. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD to pursue their invalu-iblVir *'""*''"" «''e times «-„.«.,, a„„ ,„„ att„t; r'tr; '" «''"^''-^-. "Tlie exploring exDediti,,^. ! , Y Nerdeusliiold: ;■»<-. have go„e"„„t ■; sweln'' ' "t^ *"^ ^'^'^^''t "<" "%' a«.. a.„.,ire,l a truly „a2„ ,^ *""■'"•"' ""^ ""''t''- bave '"•"'A- iuterest that ha« beer Leu "'T'"""" '"''""t* the -voucl, as well as withia thr nti ^ , ""'™ ''^''.Vwhere, be- "b'<- «un,s of u,o„ev "L" „r ^ '' ""•""g'' tbe consider- State, and above all, bvnriv't ''"""' "" ""'"> by the «;boo, they have for.nifC.o^Tr''' ":'■""«'' "-I"'-*.., '"••sts; through the iu,po,*,n: •''''' """^ *''^''"'«" ""tur- »"lts they have yielded fan Ulrou'hf" '"' geographical re- ivsearch, which by then, I n! k ^^ " '""*''"'" '<«• "•ientiflc ;••"/■"' Ht-uu, a;:d'Xhta.'r.d:^-^" '" "- '^"•'""'■' uatural objects, the richest in th^ ', " "'"'^''^ "' ^^«tic =>;I.lod discoveries and invest Ition"!"', ''" "">' •'""'"'" be 'bo future to becouj '^ '^. l-fj'"'* "''' <"' P'"""-- in ""'Ple, the meteorologi ,,1 J I !, ""'"'■'''"'oc; for ex- oxpeditious; their con^ el ensive h l?'*''™'''"^'''' "'"■" "' t'"' ""'I whale fisheries in the Car se? "i"' ''"^""^'"^ «'« »™1 l»-evio«.s,,.„ns„spected ri<,snfl:;o'H, '"'"""''' """ <" *"" sen; the discoveries on Ke»,. t!> , " ooastsof Spitzber- embie strata of coa !:] los 1 .."tt"" '"'r'""'**™ '" ™»-"- '" be of great econo„,ic i „" ,7 ' ' """■|'"'» «'"'b ai'e likely ;.n.l, above ail, the «ucces of t c" ^tsT" '";""*^ """■'*''-' jog the months of the large 8 ber ,? ,t "■^P''''"'""« "' feacl,- ■»ei-navigable t- the confines o A '"''""'"<' ••"' «"" ^eu- ". navigation, n,a„,y cenC ^ 7 r:,"?:?!:^' " "'•'""<-• And who would .'ains.,v n, . • '""* '"'™ "olved " •■"• who had hiu,serev4e ';'"'"'■' '''*'''-'''""''<'«t«*o- a.-y n,or.. than one tZ ^ \,::;i: ''tT:"'i """■'"■"■™b..ic. bergen alone? *" "^ I'ock-set'tion in Spitz- Hev': rrraut 't:dT;™rr: •" ''"*^*'-'''™' -- «- ^■ordenskiold wrote "On? ' "■""■" '"" ^'"'■"' P"""- »t^- on the way we had in several places 870 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE. met ice that was black with stones, gravel, and earth, which north "''''"' *" '""^'"^^"^ *^"' existence of land still farther Again he says: "After my return from th(. voyage of 187(]-to Siberia-! came to the conclusi(,n that on the gr<,und of the experience thereby gained, and of the knowledge which, under the ligh cLlv fr'^T'" "' '' """'' ^"'^"'^^' '" "^*''^'" ^^'^^"^ «^<1' ^'^I>e- udily fiom Kussian explorations of the north coast of Vsii I was warranted in asserting that the open, navigable w;te;; M huh two years in successi(,n had carried me acr,>ss the Kara feea-formerly of so bad repute-to the mouth of the Yenisei extended, m all probability, as far as Bering's Strait, and that |t circumnavigation of the Old World was thus within the bounds of possibility." At length, under the chief patronage of King Oscar H., >i. DH-kson and Mr. Sibiriakoff, wealthy merchants, he sailed from Tromsoe Norway, ou the voyage whi.h was destined to make iiini world-renowned. The expedition vessel was the staunch German whalin- steamer y^cmu^ "VEGA," of 357 .„„««,.,«,, b,„.d<.„. She l.a.l bee,. oq„ip,„.,l „„,! ,„an„«I l>> tlH. slut,. „( -.m ...xpens,. of l,.s« than if<),r.()0, au,l .-arri,.,! a crow of «ovontoou nion, b...si,l,.s fh,, tlnoo offl,.,.,x Othol- ev p...»o« wore ooruo b.v in,livhl„al». Sl„. was a....o,„„anie' »■'""» «'">«■ ""'I swan featle ers, sk.ns, fnrs, etc., were obtained in exchange for corn and Proceeding eastward,' the Kara Sea was f««nd calm and romparativelv fre,. nf i . '" i'o" "-"-fo/iilr ,, :;^'-^1-V« '-^ "Vega" .eaehed I'rou, this p„iut t, tL tt, '^ """"'' "' ""e Yenisei •"" ""^ w''' <" August tire"r;v^;;r ;;;;,"™''''- I'ort Diei.s„„ aud n^ert K T""""'"* "~- 'oniusula of the ZLl ''"'"' '^'''™'«- visiou-sliin leff »i;<-."t in examining the fau, f '^ ""'"'■ ^'"»'"' "ajs were -"-1. P-ogfess wa^ n-aj to Ca„e "7 "' ""- -«"'»' ' er "".•".ernmost p„i„t of the eas^tn ^^"P"'-'^'''' «"veml With grass,,, „, , 'J;" "^"■' b'-re, while „thers verl "Si" ''""'■-"i:r=jt,.r;;:s Of animation therp wot.« S«>'><, kittiwakes, eid^lZ ;;™ '"""""•"■«' "'-"aole geese » bear, two shoals of the" ^1 „'?"','' '' '''''"''' «"eral seals ''eer and lemming. *" '"""''• •'•"O traces of the reiu and^T;:?!:/""'"' - "bundance of the lower forms of life ^^^Of ,n,eets there were the spring-tail, a few tlies. am, .' Having left the eane tlie '■•" *",. r,ial.o,f Islands «as relinquished. ' """'""■ "•''*<''• the effort to land S^Miait, was reached on the 28th 372 THE SEARCH FOB THE NORTH POLE; o Septen.ber. Here the "Vega" w„» fln„ly beset „„ tins ,lafe am. ,.t „.ue established herself iu wiuter.„„arters. li„t , r the .lelaj- ,„ <,„leav„rmg t„ reaeh the l.iakoff Islauds, e would doubtless have eempleted the v-.j-ase i„ I 1, ' season. "^ sauie The winter at Serd-ze Kau.en passed unev,.uttullv but mueh mf«„„ati„n was derived eoneerning the (•h,„ k- 'hje K knuos, and m n.akiu, seientille observations, for wl,i, h , „ C an observator,- was ereeted on shore. Throughout the , eason the n.en were able to keep theu.selves ™ru, in woo e aeke s and woven jersejs. The sea-water was foun.l to v r . "1 a sjngle da.v from 28° to 32°. "u'l to ^aIi The natives were found to divide theins,.|ves jnUurallv into two elasses: the eoast and inland Chook-eluvs, the f,, n er d pending upon the dog as their n.ost faithful allv th t ,■ upon he reindeer. In their dealings with the shi .s ,, n , they were found to be strietl.v hou.vst, not even distnrbin '■ e p.-ov.s,ous plaeed on shore. It was learned that a^r | on trade with the Alaskans. •* "v>4'Z?;/ri T"" *'"' '"■ "" •'"' 1*^*" '" J"»^- !**■». •"- Be iu'l's St . • f "■ r""" '''•"* •'">'" "■' ""■• «'y ' <'«a ueiings Mrait, and east anehor in the Hiv ,if «.>.. r a» inlet of an island inhabited b, a u,'i"ed',^p';:,: 'n Z',::: kans, C hook-dieos, ami ^timoveds. . Febru'irv rj i««n i- '< ' '"'^•'P'e-'"- 'hiseit.v was reaclieil tue Ha, of htoekholni, on the 2-ttli of April, the retnn,i„.> explorers were feted and wel,.ou,e,l at everv poi t . " ovations were expre.ssive of a truly international entbnsi.,<»k-ehee Es- ich purpose ut the cold II iu woolen lud to varv OS, UPE m THE GREAT WHITE WORLD will ever m,,,,,. ' "<''" *' ""(l purse au admiring world turall.v iuto foi'uiei' (h'- I the latter 's company urbiuj"' (he ley carried S 1879, the way down II Lorenzo, >n of Ahis- niained at ^ she then IS reached entry into returnini;' nt mImtc ivd. Tlic ithusiasni crtakiujus n«Bmp«xo,4«^g JODBNKJ. jjenerons >scar II., 374 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XXXIX. DE LONG'S GALL.: ... STRUGGLE. In the pages of biHtory there is no record more uoble and inspirino- than that of George Washington De Long. Keared of strict, yet kind and solicitous Huguenot parents, he early imbibed the frugality, energy, and Christian fervor of those who begat him. His strong will and passion to overcome difficulties urged him irresistibly onward iu the pursuit of any- thing that he undertook. : Keturning from the search of the "Polaris" in 1873, when, as we have already seen, he commanded the "Juniata," he ap- pears to have had his heart set as flrmly on the polar problem as had been that of the lamented Hall. Acting upon the sug- gestion of Mr. Grinnell he at once wrote to Mr. James Gordon Bennett, then in Paris, and solicited financial "backing." The reply was both courteous and encouraging. It was, however, the 8th of July, 1879, before Mr. Bennett's liberality had made all necessary arrangements and the expe- dition, in command of Lieutenant-Gommander DeLong, steamed away from San Francisco and headed toward Bering Strait. The vessel selected for this voyage was the "Pandora," formerly owned by Sir Allen Young, who had accompanied McClintock in his search for Franklin in 1857-9. In her, this eminent English navigator had made, in 1875, an Arctic voyage through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait to Peel Sound. After her purchase by Mr. Bennett in 1878, she was rechris- tened the "JEANNETTB" and refitted for Arctic snrvice. Captain DeLong's chief assistants were: Lieutenant C. W. OR, LIFE IK THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 3K Chipp, the companion of his voyage on the "Juniata " and now h.. exe" t,.so„ o;:;:;:-;: : rolaris and was, therefore, one of those for whom Caiitain Deling had gone in sear.h in 1873. ' Strange, indeed, that ten years later it should be \in,le- It IS a so of interest to renmrk that a friend of the evoedi- bit of the "Polaris" flag, to be carried to the North Pole Pr..v,si,,„ed for three years, the "Jeannette" steamed from _ .u Franoiseo to St. Mi,.hael's, Alaska, when.... ta n' board .,r,y m.e dogs, sledges, a large quan, ity .,f fur gar, :„ her Arctic ne.-essaries, an.I two native assistants, the \le" ev b" ":x Airsiiir""'- -'- '- -■" - - '-"- Uponjeaving the bay on the evening of August "Tth ne .""« sent the following d..spat..h to th.ril.m..iX ^.-c. ,", Al welr^N. ■"' ''"'' '""■•" "■'■ ■'"••■"- '-'-" - il' • m ntis ;„.„ f/"'^ '•-',""■' ^'"■"'■-1-"" I'"«»e.l s.,„th tirree ,..,?• ' ' """' ""'"■'■'■' ••' ""«»i"". «h., spoke 11,.. ..1 .language, as na„,e,l '(■ha,.pi„l,,' p„„„u,|, x„rd„,i», f the Kuss,an navy, a.-,. ,anyi„g x„r,l,.nskio. I, who 'ai.l I H,.>»t. Hope to rea.h Wi-angell Lau.l (his s,.ason " re.,. ,','!d '^;"r'' """'' '"•:": *"""'-^- """■■» ''"'•'•• «'""'- '-""<•" was . re . to it.^'''" " '■ f "• ""'■'■ '"""■'■»' """ '' '•■'* "I- « '^'^'"'♦"3 ■>! Tlio Navy, wcnMlcpos (('(I. TIk^sc by n,..a„s of the w ing-v.-ssels whici, a,,,,,,,,,,. , it , .i af..,.s,,.ea,.l„., their destiuati.n, thirteiM, ,„o„ths iate,.. e, ! <^taiu Kellett, in the brig "Herald," in 1841). On this day, too, was sighted Kolyuchiu, or Huruey Island, on which Wrangell had landed in 1823. On the next day, in about latitude 70° 52' north, longitude 174° west, the American whaler "Sea lireeze," Captain Harues, was seen. She was again sighted several times on the 3d. Herald Island came into view on the 4th, and toward this the "Jeannette," having now fairly entered the pack, endeav- ored to push her way. For there was DeLong "hopiug and praying to be able to get the ship to make winter-quarters." Sunday, September 7th, was "a day of complete rest in every respect." The commander, at 10 a. m., mustered the crew, read the Aiiicles of War, and held divine service. At 12 m. got soundings in forty fathoms of blue niu- «•'. with the entrails of the seal, and a lar;;,. i„ale bear h-,s , ■■, „.i,t n .':;i;;::::ri::;:::;t;;;.i;:irr^^^^^^ natural history ' 4t'pi^::u:t5:::r:::;r:;r-;;r;;";;:::'r-;:::! i« PI od „p in tables from six to tweutv feet i, 1, ■" lb 1, c ,,„,,„ osether of floes. O,,.. day we Hnd la,; Ce s of ater the next day we find tl,P spaces narrowh,.. an.rth third day the spaces are elosed an.l 'slabs of new ie^^i Ih ; 378 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Of lifo, an occasional gull and the products of the dredge were all that couUl be seen. On the 28th, however, Newcomb and Ah'xey shot two female walruses, eacli weighing 1,000 pounds; one was heavy with her .young, the foetus and skin being saved as natural history specimens. The Hesh afforded much dog food. October opened with a terrific gale of wind and snow. At noon on the 8d, soundings gave a depth of twenty-four and a half fathoms, with blue mud and dark gravel. "^The dredge brought up some delicate white coral— a circumstance that bespoke either a natural growth or a warm current from the south. On the same day Herald Island reappeared in the scuithwest, the "Jeannette^' having drifted southward on the third side of the triangle represented on the track chart, and a I a speed of ten miles a day for three days. In the afternoon of this day Mr. Newcomb, Aneguin and Alexey killed another female bear weighing about 500 pounds, thus adding greatly to tI:o ship's larder. On the 0th the indefatigable Newcomb shot twenty-eight ducks, and on the next day a "Ross's gull"— a most valuable prize and rare beyond calculation, there being but one— at the Museum in Mainz— in the world. On the 17th Nindemann and Aneguin each added a seal, making seven hanging in the rigging, and insuring fresh meat for as many dinners. On the following day Ah Ham, the cook, and a most valuable man otherwise, "asked for a gun," says DeLong, " 'to go shoot a seal.' » ♦ ♦ * "In about an hour he returned, the most astonished and startled (niinaman out of China. At his first shot the gun had burst, tearing up the barrel, fortunately near the muzzle, so that he received no harm; but his mental demoralization was complete. The probability is he let the muzzle slip in the snow at some time, and the end of the bore got choked; hence the bursting." On the 2Sth Lieutenant Danenhower found the ship's posi- tion tQ be in latitude 71° 57' north, longitnde 177° 51' west. Land appeared in the south-southwest, whicii DeLong believed to be that seen by Captain Long in 1807 (Wraugell Laud.) Com- Ill/ savs OB. UPE IN THE OBEAT WHITE WORLD. 379 ■"■•■"I". l),.I.„n^r „„ |„„pp, ,„,,i,.^^,, .^ ^^^ „,ntiue,.t hut iMtiuT an island ,„• an anliij),.|„g„ ' '"" !. f 'r ■ '■'■""'" "' ""■ "'""'- "'"J- '""Kilt liiMKo at a ™fc distanoe fr,,,,, the vessel and ,.h,.w,., ,? so l,adYv (In he died witliin ten minuter .Vfter beinR „„,. „ u .f, '"■" T hronKhont October several seals and walruses were se <"red and ^valrus sausa,.e" was serve., as a new ald^.," M .11 meat well cooked was not to be despised. Certainly with "« abnndaine of fuel, this may be aecoi.lplished. On Noveniber nth Del.ong records: "A day of «reat an.. «"'"-"«'".> «." an »...,;,' .';:",''';'". ";•"' •^''™'-- " '"■• and Sw....|,„a„ „■..,■,. in ill ',,",' ,'"• ■-: -■--!; t,;;:;:z?a;r:^^^ "•'"'•'''""'l"m'ethPm„Hi,,,u,„uia„/i;.iu.,f I ■'■'""■ '•■"''■'I =UMl l.Vl,n,„ry bPuan will, ,,'7 '"""'"• "• -'"""m-y On 111,, firsl „f ii,„ „ '"'^'"'' ,"'•'' '1"^' pumps K"inK Nli-adilv. .1.,. ne..t day another of the«e Preataivs attonrntP.! pV >".■- .P VPHHPI, bnt ,va« «hot b.v Mr. I.nnbar. t , it, ;'»» ponndN and nipasnred piftht fppt one ind. in IPtrntl, v, ti ".«»ve a fP». slate-like stones was fonnd in its st'nlL,, WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY f^'.lling- on Sunday, its rolebration was l.Hd o„ the -id Vt snnnso the Moannette" was sso.l with \. '^ • - nu. n.ast-h.ad and t,a,-sta. ^::\^:Z:^'z^z:::r On tho last day «f February I)oL„nn. wroto- "Th n. hn^rht una cheorful, survovin«- with uuX V ''''' ->:,anyi;j:::,:^r—:,id'';v:;r\ri;: '"'■'-• ™-K Wit,, no ponppV: ;' , ;: r:"?,zf "Jo"''"-? '^ ""tivps, A.P..P, an,, AnPgnin, tbrivP won p ,, wp,^ O " ».ona„,v^bey "»«•, sixty p,u„u frel '„!? ''""""' ^''«<'''""-' """<. ■'""■juu.e.c^HbntdL;^:!;';;:';;!;! '"^^ """' '""' '°''^'' , . . ON SUNDAYS : .iin'nT'whrh r held":,","'" "'^^^ '^^-"'^ '""-'-" ".V fare for t e Wn^e e™ is e , T" "'"'"P""™- ^'"« "ii. of with oranberrv s mce "t^, M "":"' ''"•'"' '""" ^ ■•<«"" •«""• .liu.' or "luff" , ; ffl ' '"T" "'"• '"'•»*«<'«. Piekles, brea.l, pnd- ,.orr;;:,r ::a- either Jf'ale. v<'K0tab 1. n at er olthe 2nM', ""'" '"'"' """ " "'""" '" 'li".-in «a»f.,„d ., ;,nr ^f f """i'"' """^ ^•"* ""e» and .mU. ..^,wost. On the ,.st day a flock c^'.ulo ^^. ^ < Klor (Incks were observed flyinj? westward On the 8th of Myy Captain DeLono- th"s «i.:^.... -ni weather is gloomy, depressinj,s and disagreeable" 'Vdocities .i i : J. 384 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; rangiu}^' from ten to twenty-three miles drive the snow from the faie of the tioe in clouds. ♦ ♦ * Here and there along- side the ship a little white lump indicates that there is a dog beneath .it, and even the regular and irregular dog fights are discontinued until the weather gets clearer and friend can be distinguished from foe. * * * As if by concerted plan one and two will spring on three, r(dl him over and seemingly tear him in pieces. Fortunately the wool is so long and thick that an attacking dog gets his mouth full of hair before his front teeth reach the tlesh. * * * The vulnerable places are the ears and the belly. I have seen an attacked dog run, and, lying on his stonmch, shove his head into a snow bank wiih impunity while his foes were choking over the hair they tore out of his back. > "* * * Suddenly dog three will turn on dog two and be promptly aided by dog one, his previous foe. By this time the whole pack has gathered as if by magic, and a free and in- discriminate fight occurs. "They divide up into little gangs of three or four, and in these friendly cliques they also fight. * * * It is a com- mon occurrence to see a dog on the black-list, a quarter of a mile from the ship, all alone and afraid to come in until his time is up. He then approaches fawningly, wagging his tail deprecatingly to become reconciled, and is either welcomed by wagging tails or snarling teeth, in Avhich latier case he retires for another spell. * * * They make no demonstration at any dog singly, or a team, going away, except the most doleful hovvling, and should he or they venture to return, the remainder of the pack lie in wait for the one or more returning. If a team" comes in, a, rough and tumble fight ensues and requires two or three men to stop it. As soon as the harness is off they are all smooth and quiet again, the cliques reassembling and moving off to their usual haunts. ♦ * * "Their cunning is extraordinary. Going out the other night at twelve for ^,„.., METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, about a dozen of them came around me in great excitement ' snow from there along- ere is a dog »g fights are 'ierid can be ted plan one uningly tear d thick that )re his front laces are the )g run, and, V bank wiih lir they tore log two and By this time free and in- four, and in It is a corn- quarter of a ' in until his ging his tail welcomed by ise he retires lustration at most doleful he remainder 1 ruing. If a and requires ^ss is off they sembling and le other night t excitement ra ^.% '»M % lir5J2fcK.x«-2r .3i«>>X. ! vai«>< ■ ' -xj^ciKj-c- J Etah Eskimos : Nook-tah and My-ouk. View at Cape York In- verted Iceberg in the Distance. (SwCliiiptirs XXVlll.. XXXlV.anil XLII.) In- 6r. life in the great white world. 385 about something or other. Looking around for i onn.p t k of t,w bears weighing nearly 800 pounds ' oesl'n ' ofrAfr"" ""'■" "'' """ ''""™«1 ^^■'•■•'■ib' in snc cession. One of tilt seamen sliowed signs of insanity • r-iin fell for a few moments on the 0th and was esteem" "V Inrrv" on the last day the first punishment of the cruise wa" i Hi tt,', one of the seamen being compelled to assu.L "wa " i' watch for twenty.fonr hours in the flre.r,K>n,, for p „ > ' abusive language to a ship-mate." On this d^v I 1 Imving drifted to the southeast-backwJdf ! ^ , T'"'^' T2° 19' 41" north, longitude 178° 2" 30" a";; v!: f ;'"^' ■seals and Ave Boss's gulls were secur", h ilg \t , S' Ihey now had seven of the hitter mouth. ^onS/rst't^:." t' "corj;::;:' "?r tt- -" really „f Monday, July nth, as t^r^^: J; -;;;,: l.^ 180th meridian. It hpino- +iw. «„ j. c , «i<».s.se(i the Articles of War and geZI ,..';;;: :L'" '."iVl'.'.r"';"" and divine service. On the ne..t day the ^ '»»l'«-""n ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICAN INnEPBNDENCE ueaii and signals in a rain-bow. The latitude then was 7r "IV rint ZlfroTt ' "' """" "" "'"''■^ »-- -vered with 8$e THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; I Past the middle of the month De Loug almost despairiugly writes: "See-saw, see-saw northwest with a southeast wind, and then southeast with a northwest wind, and the same result with any other two succeeding winds. * * ♦ A bear in a trap, a bird in a cage, a ship in the ice, are alike held in bondage sharp and galling. * » * job is recorded to have had many trials and tribulations which he bore with wonderful pa- tience; but so far as is known he was never caught in pack-ice and drifted south and west with west winds." And a few days later: "Seal at dinner, with macaroni, tomatoes, etc., etc., as per bill of fare, and a glass of sherry with our corn starch pud- ding. As far as food goes, we are in luxury." On tlie same day was killed their first ook-sook (Pho-ca bar- ba-ta, or bearded seal). She was eight feet long. ITer linsh was used for dog food and the thick skin for boot soles. The 29th was rendered memorable by their again arriving at the 180th meridian, which line was previously crossed on the 5th of May. ^ On August 2d their location was latitude 73° 20', longitude 178° 36' west, a change of over twenty-three and a half miles, or nearly seven miles a day, to the northeast. By the gradual melting of the snow and ice, shells, pieces of sponge and bits of wood were revealed. On the 3d, between 5 and 8 o'clock p. m., a strong odor of burning brush-wood filled the air and was noticed by every one save DeLong, who was suffering at the time of a severe cold in the head. A decided haze was also apparent from to 10 p. ni. On the 13th there was a rainbow at 10 p. m. and sunset oc- curred twenty minutes later. On this day the "Jeannette" began again to drift northwest. On the 18th a sounding gave a depth of 44 fathoms, with mud, gravel, and fine white sand. On the next day Mr. Dunbar, while on the ice with Alexey, was surprised by "the biggest bear he had ever seen — A REGULAR BUSTER t" Dunbar crouched down, whereupon Alexey fired and dropped the monster! Bruin, however, again spx^ang to his feet and OR, LIFE IN THfi GRfiAT WHITE WORLD 337 rnmantio, but iinnracti.ihj/ 11 ? -"""nteuauee was board s,Hp theref^be ?•" a b™ "?' b;^" ,! "': '""•""' "«" BruiB halte,!, but so close had hean„,,,a"hed L iT'"" """"• «>mmande,. could distiu<.tlv so\ '■"■ he same titne elevated an oar to fend off l^^^s ,n."t :,"" ?? i.e advance farther. At that instant a stHur«f d!" an I Z en -bed round the stern of the vessel, an,l the bear.' ," t then, a moment, took the hint and „ ade off leavinlr; t and two nearly grown cubs appeared. The dogs bei.^' fed m the port bow were unmindful of their approach %', reigned. Mrs. Bruin led the van «!„„ . ? , ''"''' head to the wind, necK stre hid out i l^'f,,:?' ft'"™''"-'' describing graceful curves at each step .h^ en on T' "T Ihe water lanes and swam across hS.rhn i *^ •'' '"*" h.;.;offspri„g to f.dh,w. At -Sri'Z t^rt Z^"'^: . -iiouating t„at it had been struck. The young ones . THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; closed in on the mother, and the firing continued until the smoke hid them. Away went the dogH and the men in pursuit, following? tlie l)l(K)d-staiued tracks. The mother bear, tljoujfli severely hurt, puslied her young before her, nosing tliem into the water before leaving the ice herself, and thus covered their retreat until the pursuers were obliged to abandon the chase by reason of the too numerous leads. When in pursuit of these bears Lieutenant De Long and Dr. Ambler came to a locality covered with the "crimson-vol- ored snow" for quite a space. The microscope revealed in it a pink-colored marine algae, probably a species of i)rotoc()c<'us. On August 30th Jupiter and Aldebaran were in j)lain view. This was the first appearance of any of the stars since in the spring, and on the next day, as if to give warning of the r.eai' approach oi winter, an aurora appeared as a faint tren'uilons arch. On the 1st of September the vessel righted herself once more to an even keel, and numerous flocks of birds (principally phalatropes) passed to the southwest as if coming from some land to the northeast. The 5th was the first anniversary ol' the entrance of the ship into the ice-pack, and she was but 150 miles northwestward of that point. On the 9th Mr. Dun- bar brought to the ship a quantity of "crimson snow." On the 14th De Long writes: "At 8 p. m. the moon was rising on the southern horizon, and very much distorted by refraction. It seemed of immense size four days before full moon, and re- minded one of a large city burning. Auroral flashes shot up from the eastern horizon toward the zenith, and, with the many stars visible, made a beautiful scene. At midnight, •'•■- "Iu^^^ImuT ^^__^^^_^^ <..», « >.,...■ f,.„,„ l,uv,„j;«w.,M„w«l u law wad „f ni!:ro,,';,.,;.i„!;:i" """"• """" «"- '"".V >>oUled «» « „at„ral 0« the l«tU a »,„all (,„„• was kille,! b^ the dog8. WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY «a« aKain .olebrat..,! n,,,.,,, „f t|„. Ar.ti,- CM^ bv nla.in^ .ho .v;„.......„w.t^.d:;:t1,^b:.f:;:;in:;;;;::: Ion., uifh a l(,nj;- oanh «n his niinp; Wolf one r.f th. A "illi l«„ side ^Mslies clear t„ the intestines- one -f ai ' .1"!.-, will, a ,.iaw Rash in his throat; Sn . •' with ^ .tlT .i-.* t" n,„nth; Sn,ike, with two bad ^^^u^ot^ ™' "•""' ..^td;!;;u:;;::;t:j:;:zr-' "-'■"-'--« l«ter the position of the "Jeannette" „ ,« SW M *^ . ''"•''" "f lleiald Island. * ""'*^ northwest Nearly a month later, on the l!)th of \.^,.ii *i. ^, . "".1 two dogs followed a bea 1 il finllh'^H' '""""""''' tne pnrsuit. Not nntil nearly a week tot X" f " "" turn, exhansted from their long absence "' ""*'" '" On the27fh some diatoms of the order cos cin o rfi= "btuined, and being evldentlv of ri"'- o-- I "*"''' 392 THK SEAllCil FOR THIi NORTH POLE; tlon was suppoRod to bo within the area of tlu' dopoHit from the Oil liu' 4th of May a (lock of ten wild jjfccsc ami hoiiu* dinks were seen llyiii^ wcnL On Ihc iwsi dny a bear vvi'lghiii}; T!M» pounds was kiih-d. Aj;ain, on (he 1 Kh, was a (lock of d.inks H»'('n living west. And, two dayw later, in the same direetion, was discovered LAND. It was first seen by Mr. Onnbar, when aloft. The ship was then in latitnde 7(1 t.T 20" north, hnigitnde UW :t'X 45" <'ast- the tirst seen since March 24, ISSO. Fonr days later app<'ar- ances of another island a little farther west were noted, and four days still later a separate island was made out. Tlie proj>ress of the vessel thus far during the new year was satis- faet; ncuthwest. The nearer, more eastern and first-discovered land was named Jeannette Island; the other, Henrietta Island, in Inmor of Mr. IJennett's mother. On the last day of May ('aptain I)e Long despatched Mr. Melville, with Messrs. Dunbar, Nindemaun, Ericksen, Jiartlett, and Sharvell, to the latter, which was comimted to be about twelve miles distant. "My anxiety," says I)e Long, "will he endless and unremitting until T get all hands under my wings again; and I pray God so to aid them and guide us that no mis- hap may occur." On the next day it was discovered by the doctor that at least six of the men were sutTering from the effects of lead- l)oisoning, engendered probably by the long-continued use ol canned tomatoes, which showed traces of the poison, the acid of the fruit having worked chemically upon the solder of the cans. On June Hth Melville's party returned. They landed on the island on Thursday, June 2d (June IM, true time), hoisted the silk flag, and took possession of it in the name of THE GREAT JEHOVAH AND THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, Upon it they erected a cairn in which was deposited a record which had been sent with them by Captain De Long. Tlio on, LIFE IN THE OHEAt WHITE WORLD. 3»3 iHlnnd was f,,„ml t„ i„. „ ,l,.»olat<. r,„.k, „p„„ ,vhich rostH a .u ■. Dou 1 „.„, „, |,l„..k g„in,.,n„.s, u..»li„K „„ ,|„. |„.,.,ini,„„.s "f "- :VT ' ">• "'«"» "f «"'"<■ "'■""• «"."- .""«H Kn,4 „ d .';:;'"'" " '•";" »"■■ I" «"t •.".•!<. T.„. po«i io„ of" '■'""' ,"■''■" ":'•'' "* '""t""- ■■° «' >'"rtli, l„„Ki„„l,. ir.7" 4,T n"'v •..""* ';'■';:;''""■'"• '"'""''- '"•!*• ™° ^-^ ""rti., lo-witiMi,. •.« r* ,.a»t. "Thank (i,Ml," «-.-it,.» I),. !,,„,(;, ..,„• b, v,- aT least '"■" "'■'," "«'wl.V-.nH,.,.n..., art of .IHr.aHl^ a.nl a , .rfi ""» Jo"n„.,v has h„.„ a,.,.„„,,,|i„h,,l without ,li.sa.st,.r " » . h h,s t „.: r„n,l,.M,a„n, saff.-ri,,^. of ,h,. ,.,.a„„.s, ..all..,! "P"« K n. ks,.>, f.appb- 1 i„..t„r,. „f ™,«ieu.„ t„ the arh n rn,„.t, i< I hands, wl„,.h, I„„,,i„. as with «„., rans,.,! him t,, h.s,. I" thes,. but al«„ to a v<..-.v lar^o and s„r,. u.,s,.. l'„„r Kricksen - great y surprised, and be ,.,„b.d an.l s„nirn,e.l in t Ve ™ ^^ ke an eel wl„h. the men sood-natuivdly suK«.'sted tl,a e nis, If on top of an u-.-hinnnioek lest be n„dt bis way tlirou-b I"' floe; that be be plaeed in the foreeastle of tl e sh 1""' Leater; bat be was "hot enough to u.ake the snow b iss'^" etc . nnftinK steadily westward, the vessel was slowly mr,^' ."« fi-on, the sight of land. On the nlRbt of the fllh ,be w.s subjeeted o several severe jars, and a.nhlst a fea'f, s, L";, and eraeking, what was left of the idd ei„b.v v..,„i ' , " opened to a width often feet. ^'slXyjanl water lane The further history of the ".Teannette" is brief rraclin.- e'b'z;:":: ^i^ r: •: "' "r "■"""■"'""^ ■"■•-"■'■■ '^^^ r unel^ ., f ,"','• '""' •■'* * "■ "'• "f J"'"' 12th (Monday June 13, true tune), she slowly sank on an even keel i, Ht i. " 15' north, lonptude ]5r,° east. All on ho. 1 „ .' f -ape to the lee with an abnndanee of , j " Z^.'. 1 gs s^..dSe.s boats, and other supplies. "Oood-bye, , ., .A -.am D, Lo„K sadly, as she went to the bottom. At length, on the evening „f the 18tb of June, began the 394 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; retreat southward, "hoping with God's blessing to reach the New Siberian Islands," and thence to make their way "by boats to the coast of Siberia." Traveling by night (when the sun was circling lowest, above the northern horizon), they slept during the day (when the sun was circling highest, above the southern horizon). On the 25th, at midnight— the dinner hour — careful observation showed their position to be in latitude 77° 46'. They had, therefore, as they journeyed southward over the ice, been drifted with it to the northwest, and the end of the week found ihem twenty-eight miles farther north than when they began the retreat. The course was thereupon changed to the southwest, which would intersect the drift of ice to the northwest and bring them to the edge of the ice more rapidly. Fogs, lanes of water having to be bridged as often as 'five times in a single half night, riJns, "hot weather," causing the men to suffer although the temperature of the air in the shade was only 30°, and several enfeebled men — those suffering (tf lead-poisoning — retarded progress. On the FOURTH OF JULY all the flags were set flying in honor of the day. On Suuda.v, the 10th, considerable "needle ice," as it is termed by Paiiy, was encountered. In the opinion of that daring navigator thi;i is caused by rain-drops, but in the Judgment of De Long "by the more rapid drawing away of the salt in some places than in others, leaving bunches, or tufts of long spikes," Supper was had at 7:30 a. m., after which coiisiderablc ex- citement was created by the appearance of laiid to the soutli- west. As the nearest known Siberian island was yet distant 120 miles, were they approaching some hitherto unknown island? At 8:45 the usual divine service was held. On the following day it was found that they were in reality approat lir ing new land. On this day, too, many dovekies, several gulls, and one auk were seen, and A LIVE BUTTERFLY was picked up. The frail thing had undoubtedly been blown from the laud farther south. This circumstance recalls to the OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 395 Writer the great numbers of butterflies nf t.n.- floating far out at sea-probabT2 ^m iL off t?'"'' '''° Labrador upon our rpd.-n f„ xr 1^, """^''— "f the coast of ber, 1894. '"™ ""'" ^"'•"' ^'eenland in Septem- iugS were^;f '"if V' ""'k'^ ""'"'^»" ™»-" --^ """'bear. o«X a seal a, Uw*'',''' '?."''"« """-«'' ""^ --' <>!«■ thin snow crust. f„ TyTtvlntL • '""''''' '"'^ '"""'' «'« "Tn t'hX;r" r ™^^ '^" --^^^roVL^ir^^ ilioice food for several davs T„ •'* i "''" "'"' ''»«« shrimps, small fishX smX n > """""^'' ''''■•'" '"'""J On the 21«t rt '"-e smelts, and sea-anemones. On the 23d the ' '*™'''" """■'•'^« ^""'''^ «<^™- "STARS AND STRIPES" were unfurled in vipw nf fi.^ « i i. next day Mr. tV, 1 .s „ t t^^r^T'"''"' "•»"'■ «» the •shore, abreast a lar^e gla.ier Tw 1 f '! "^'"* " '""'' "« ;ft-..oted a landin,,^,* cXs of'Tnlld's :.;:""" """^ furled and possession of if +..h. • !, ^"'^*^^ ^^^«tes were un- «f the United ^tZl T "' *^" ""'"*' '^^ ^''^' P»'^«nlent states. It was very appropriately named BENNETT ISLAND. ™u::i:t;L.r;:j:s.!':;™ ;•; r'^«™"- -'the Hie date was ehauL^ed to H. / ^ "^ ^^""- "^* ""'^ ^^^e n.ecorreHed .-aJXl ::;r;;;;;:::-^^ "'■*^-. •'"'. 29t,„ i". tie::;,;;::,L:rti'r "«::;:;::""« "''; '*•■•" -" '« """<• 'i'>'(?),an..ih;sts,.H„;™T:'r, "';"■''''';' *"f"' ■'"•"' "■y- e... a Piece of reindeer J^^:^':!!::^ -t::::zz:;z SMt THE SEARCH FOR TH£3 NORTH POLE.' lection of drift-wood, were brought in. Later these collections were increased in great abundance. Mr. Melville found a large vein of bituminous coal. It burned very readily. Hematite, from which brown metallic paint is made, was also found. The seam was from six to twenty-four inches thick and at an elevation of one hundred fifty feet above sea-level. Dr. Ambler found the island to be of volcanic origin and composed of trap rock containing feldspar, silica in various forms, lava varying in color from yellowish-brown to dark green, brick-colored clays, quartz, stalagmites, and stalactites, etc. The stratification was horizontal. Fossils and two va- rieties of gypsum-like stones were also found. Of the thousands of birds which covered the cliffs enough were secured to afford all delicious food while on the islaml. Those fried in bear's fat were pronounced luxurious. From small streams was obtained a most welcome supply of ])uiv water, fresh and sweet. In an excursion along the southern shore Mr. Dunbar found traces of bears and foxes, grouse or ptarmigan droppln-s probably traces of the Arctic hare, an old bone, i)robablv tlmi either of a musk-ox or a walrus, and a bear's winter "house divided into inner and outer apartments. He also found twd glaciers— the more distant and larger being the on- seen bv the party on the 2()th. H was three miles across its face :uu\ fifty or sixty feet high. On the ice foot near it was much "crim- son snow." A hundred feet above the sea-level and five hundred nj) the slope was a quantity of drift-wood which had i)robably been carried th( r.- by the gradual upheaval of the land. The extinct volcano, four or five miles from the encamp- ment at Cape Emma, was found to be neai-ly a mile inland. In attempting to cross it Mr. Dunbar, with Ah^vey and Ane- guin, was stopped by fog when at an elevation (.f about 1,000 feet. At that jKunt were picked up marine shells. Li(Mitenant Thipp was also sent to examine the west coast and made a trip of seventeen miles, bringing back quite a col- Oft, LfF6 tN TSB OEBAT WHITE WORLD 39, :rX. *• ""'""^ ''""""'«"'^<' "'- --^ -rought SEMENOVSKI ISLAND ;vlHch appeared to be about one eighth of a mil. in ..-.uk ,„. r. o.n SOU. 100 feet high. It seemed to be washing a^^^j Z &9S fHE SEARCH FOR THE NORl^H fOLEj much mud was visible. Upon its top a deer's antler and some mastodon teeth were found. In the afternoon a fine doe was killed. Her fawn was shot at, but escaped. The doe had probably remained on this island in the spring, behind the herd migrating northward, in order to bear her young, and, with the return migration in the fall, would probably have agaiu joined her kind. The water obtained here tasted "hoggish" and was filled with animalculae and "red grubs." Again getting under way on the morning of the 12th, Wa«- silevski Island was passed in the course of the forenoon and the last stretch toward the Lena delta begun. That night IN A FEARFUL GALE, the three boats containing the party became separated and never again met. The second cutter, in charge of Lieutenant Chipp, with Messrs. Dunbar, Sweetman, Kuehne, Warren, Sharveil, Starr, and Johnson, was never afterwards heard of. ' Four days later the other boats reached the long-struggled- for delta. The whale-boat, in charge of Mr. Melville, witli Lieutenant Danenhower (disabled), and Messrs. Newcomb,(\)le, Wilson, Leach, Lauterbach, Bartlett, Manson, Aneguin, and' Tong Sing, entered one of the numerous mouths of the river near Cape Borkhia, at a considerable distance south of Barkin, the objective point for all the boats. ^ De Long's party having landed from the first cutter on the 17th, he followed his custom of depositing a record iudlcatiu}; the progress of the expedition. This was near Lighthouse Point, the northernmost locality in the Lena delta. He then began, on the 19th, the terrible march southward, following the upward course of the river. Had he, instead, turned west"- ward and traveled about thirty-five miles, he would undoubt- edly have reached the native settlement at North Bunlun in safety. But alas! his chart contained no information con- cerning this friendly community and he blindly followed the course of starvation and death. From the start, Ericksen and Lee, in their enfeebled slate, retarded the rapid progress of the party. On the 20th seven or eight deer were seen, but none was secured. Numerous fox OR. LIFE IN TH& GREAT WHITE WORLD. 390 • imnd';h:ro:'Srs' '"^ "''^' ■"^'" -« »■'- »- «» escaped. ^ '" '^"P'""" «■"' t""- "ther ten deer was bur ed in the river fin ti.„ i "''"'"''>» the (>th, and board inscribed: ^''"'' *"*"■<■ ""*" " P"«'«l « IN MEMORY. H. H. ERICKSEN. OCT. 6, 1881. U. S. ». JEANNETTE into'':xt"b;-! 'm:tr rrr '" *'■" "^^ --^ --<> .•..«!. Presfrvti'b/hrnlater' ""'" " "'^ "»'- ^^ '-'' ^^^^This was the one hundred sixteenth da, ont since leaving Two days later De Long and party were overtaken hv n severe «now storm which continued till the arrnoorof the 14th and prevented their advancing. n..re than a mile Again advancing a short disiance on the i-, h 1h. camped near an emptv o-Min mn \ Tr ' ^^'"^^ *'°" AW.vo.., T^^K,"r-\"''^'" '-^^^^ "'• flat-bottomed boat. '™«d to be d.ing and was baptiL ^ t rb.tMC 400 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; sunset he breathed his last and was buried in the ice of the river. On the 19th the camp was shifted a short distance— for the last time. Meanwhile, Nindemaun and Noros were struggling fonvard. Keeping along the west bunk of the river, crossing sand-pits and streams, sleeping in snow-banks, seeing game— a herd of reindeer, a crow, and an owl— at a tantalizing distance, they reached, on the evening of the 19th, some huts, in one of whieii they found some fish-nets and other articles and a quantity ()f blue molded but tasteless fish, of which, having built ii large fire, they proceeded to eat. Dysentery now added to their weakness and they were obliged to re.n^in by the fire within the hut. The place where they then were is known as Hulcour. Would that their com- panions had been there with them! When, at noon of the 22d, the two men were preparing to eat, a figure— a man— suddenly appeared at the door! It tvas oae of the natives, but he could give them nothing save a deer skin, a pair of skin boots, and a sign that he would shortly return to them. He then disappeared on his sleigh, drawii by reindeer, leaving the men to (juery whether they had acted wisely in alloAving him to go. Noros, iiowever, was confideut that he was a good Christian and v.ould return. That very evening he did return, with two companions and supplies. After partaking of food, the two men were placed in the sleighs and driven about fifteen miles west of the river, where they were kindly received by a small party of natives. In spite of Nindemann's efforts to make them understand his desires to return to the assistance of their companions in the rpar, he failed to do so, and on the next day the entire paitv drove southward until, at the end of two days, on the evening of the 24th, they arrived at Ku Mark Surka. Meanwhile, Th^ Long had recorded, where we took leave of him on the 19th, ;is follows: "October 21st, Friday.— One hundred and thirty-first day. Kaack was found dead about mid.niglit bei w<-^^u the doctor and ice of the e — for tli(» ^forward. sand-pits -a herd of luee, they ' of which quantity g built ii bey were ice where heir ooni- paring to ! It was ve a deer 1 shortly \i, drawn lad acted i^onfldeiit lions and 'e placed he river, atives, [lerstaiid nions in ire party evening leave of irst day. ctor and (1. ^H « OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. .■KV % 3 I 11 »i O 1/1 c > - Xi I-. •o J rt - c . o ; U 75 (1. 401 in.vsoIf. Lee died about noon. Kead m-,vorv f •. . found he was going Pidjei.s for sick wIkmi wc -a "r:r;.f::::rrs;7r ''^\ i«.. Tlu. ,loet,,r Collins m,i i , "'"' '''""'•'' ""» "" out „, .„„t. ;Ve::''.;;;';;:'/,r,':: '''™' '""""" "'^' ™™- ".Huaged to get enougb wood iu beC ni .•'' '," ""'" diviue service Buffering i„ „.„. „,f'^; „;;;'" 1-* "f a Uussian exile nan.ed K^.-Lu, ,1' "i ,;,,'; '"'' ""'"-' l'"..g of tl,e state of affairs, for he re eae' J?', .?'''"• nette" and "A.nerieansk," a^d ti.ev .n™ , ,:* '1 ?'*""■ something about "St. I'etersbiaV' ,,..l '*" *"'■'' f-rre,I tbat he desire.] them to ,?..it """«■■">"•'<-" and i„. •'.at city. A note Zl at^d n«, r;rrr, r "^ T '" with it on the next morning for B,"l, n n.,?.i '""^^ following shortly afterwar,! T ev ' '^'"''l'".'""" '""' »»'■'« .•I.arge„famaniithaX„nV;:ii:i:::r "'•'"" "''"''' '" Arriving at Bulun on flip «>Ofii +i. ".al. a«ain:b„t insterd . t , e m m^ll^^^^^^^^ ","■'■* I^- also spoke something conoernin^ t 'X V Tlu^^^^^^^^ fore prepare,! another .lispatch and addrC" it t„ t ,^ ^ '^ terran^nX^wirrc,:'::;:" In' -'% "'" "-■■ t ^r jr ni^ -~- -- »"--.%" Melville, are /on X ™;ve";r 'r'"""""^ "*'•" ^■""- "■•• lands; finally we oame uTi^lT' \ '^ ""''"" "" «'<' '"'ad- i-- I jumped .fp '„ Ihe' hea had"'" "'"' """ *■"- '"^"-' ' made. ♦ • ♦ Ah.,..f «, . , "^^'"^^ ^^^ hart been «■... re the flre had . S?;„/;r:^'' '-"^ '"»° t^e poin^ ins up out of the snow abll . L^ '' ''""■• ^"^^^ "h'-'l- «otherwithapieee„f op, s fn' tl" T,""' ""'" '"""ed to- ""'I S"inR «.. to theplaee'on .T* , ''''"''P''''"'^*''<-''l«l. '■• "'"'"t -ishl in.hes out o? the M ' 1"';"' ?" ^''- ■''•■^- the natives to rtlffTino- onf fh« T ' Ntai^ert poles. ♦ * •^*'^'*"**^^^^^'^««^banki,nrterneaththete.t ""ried in the sLw, on Z" ZX' " "'T ""'"• P""""-^ ■"e -„ raised way above their.- ^'tre'ri!;^-;-' 404 THE SEARCH FOB THE NORTH POl.B; ) M "" "•■"""•1^ .•.•.■08„ii,«l thorn «, r„p,„|n I,o r.„„^ Uv. Ainl.l,.r and Ah Sai„, tho .„„k. Th,. .anla n „,„l ih, tor wer.. lying with th.-ii- l„.a,l» ,„ t)„. noMI u' , , ,"" we«t „„., Ah « „,„„ „,„^, ,, ,.,^„„ „;;;;::::;,;.-;;;■ witi, hm h,.«U al,„„t tho ,l,„.tor'» ||„, „„,, f,,., ;,, , ' ' "' or where the arc liad l)een The (l,.,..,i„. ''' driftwo.,,,. i„n„e,.e tru.i of .. 7 ' h:;;:i"i';"'"''«'' "■' thecro,e„ „f a ,ar,e ,ree. The, l^:,. ^r i ,^ ^ X ," I! tbere, a„„ «„t a lot of Aretie willow whi.., they Z^Zt • No doubt they saw that if they di „ the r ver hZ' » lu.^ the water run«, the spring freshei. would carry tC^ Contimiing the search, the bodies of all the others save those of Er,ekse„ and Alexey, who h„d been bnried i tle'rh^ were reeovered and bnrie.l on an elevation about .-iOO feet i;, ' thorough searel, left no donbt that Lieutenant (hippli those w.th hun had perished in the gale of Septen.ber 12. before reaching land. ' oft!" r '.Tr "' *'"' '"""'""'■ '''<""<""'"* Giles B. Ilarber of the United States navy, also made a thorough seareh of , , ! delta, with like results. In the autu.un, EnstnTl nt l Messrs. Bartlett Leach, Lanterbach, aud'Munso," IZ'S, the Un,ted States. Wilson, being ill, had preceded th..,, Aneginu died of the sn„illpo.x on the journey Y.i^\ ?" ™'"'f' o" "f ''i» «''''«l' Ml-- M.ilville set out for Yakutsk, where he arrived on the 8th of .June. He had be joined previously by Tolonel W. U. Gilder, Lieutenant Zv and Ensign Hunt, who ha,l accompanied the I'nited « , o steamship "Rodgers" „„ l„.r propose'l examination o the^o , the Bay of .St. Lawrence, these three men had persisted in j,,,,,.. oeying overland till they met Mr. Melville. Frlm Yakut.sk I, is party returned to the United States. Lieutenant Ila ber . mained another season ,1883) and renewed the sear h^a ,1 although unsuccessful in its prime object, he brought back panionT" '-'-'^"-t-Commauder De Long and c ; 0«. UPB ,N THE o«=AT WHITE WOHtD. m CHAPTER XL. EXPEDITION. ami ,ts WHbl,. ,.„di„^, i„ , " ' "";' "-"•""«'• .-..Hear,.!,, "^''™*«'' ADOLP„„s W. GREELV aetmg signal officer Unif^,! «t.,t . a» well, was place, i,;:;!^'"' ''''•'''''' " "'*"'"" '""'"^'■ "-'y *25,000, tbrec.f„„,,J,„ „, „ , , " "'««"""y allowance „f "■■ug a vessel, tUis uudaun 'd ' ' ""''.'"'"''"''"'' '" ^""r- 'a>» f.,r which he was in n . 1 ' '""*' "' ■'-"'•■ated de- a-™nge for the deparfn e oAh '<'^f""'»"'l<., pro..eeded fo '■«c- iustrnments, boats , 1„^^ ' T ""' """'"•^ <" -"al- -Hen- aud othei. articles of di^ nl^ "n; f-T' '«""""-»", lime juice ••qaipago, etc., for a pWy of w'r :'■■■'' ^""""^»- """"oh'-W absentintheArctic^Lwft 'tw*'-''? "'"" """"""J *" be Moreover, by reason of the , n? i I n"", •" '"""»"■■•<■- years! ant Greely's way, be wa obli"e " '' "''"'■"' '» '-*»ten. s>t.on for food, elothingandftt, 7 ',■'''" ""' ^P-^al requi- Oay^-and this when it wa" Vei 7 "" "' '"^^ """■ '"-ee ?"ality of all snch were of vi ^ , ™ "■"' *"" """""tv and mg so far north i "*' importance to a party ventur 406 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; I Nevertheless, in Senator Conger, General llazen. Major Ap- pleby, and President Gihnan of Johns Hopkins University tl o cause of sdence found faithful chan.j.ions, men who saw b.t- te. things than mere dimes and dollars, poHth-s and partie and the LadyFranklin Ka.v Expedition was finally enable ,' leave St. John's, .New Foundlaud, July Ttli 1881 An^ng Greely's assistants were tlu'^ follo'wing:' Lieutenant r F Kislingbury, who, in a service of fifteen years, had an exee lent reputation for field work; Lieutenant J. P. Lo l wood, an officer of eight years' experience, a portion of whi<', «nl ;.• ;, •^' Pliysioian and naturalist; Sergeants Israel and Rice, the astronomer and photographer respectively, wh„ cheerfully accepted enlisted service in <,rder to accompa'ny the faithful and efficient meteorological observers. Sergeau Bramard of the Second Cavalry, was an.ong those destined to gain meritorious distinction. ^ In the "Proteus," a New Foundland sealer (.f IfiT tons rc- v^ter, commander by (Viptain Kichard Pike, the expedition -.r rivid at Godhaven, or Disco, Greenland, .)n the Kith. At vario'us points on the coast a lot of fine dogs, fur ch.thing, and wM.I fowl were secured. A ton and a half of Hudson Bav pen,- mican and the remains of a hou. .uivhased in the preVellin.. ^!r T r^"''^^ ""''^"'" •expedition were also taken ffreat statesman, and two Danish Eskimos j<,ined the expcli- tiou from Pittenbenk and Proven. ..JV"^^-" u"^^' ^V'"-^' ^''''^^ '^ >^'^^ ^«« <->'-'^«<''l on Julv mu and aist, in thirty-six hours. On tln^ evening of the latter date a landing was made on the (^.ry Lslands, where th(^ whale-boat and prov.sK.us left by Sir Gcu-ge Nares in 1875 were found in good condition. The depot was located in a small cove on the southern end of the southeast island <.f the group. The cans of Austraaan beer, though exp<,,sed on the bare ro.-ks ' J"'"-'!" "•""• expedition inlslo rSi^VMe V '""" '"" ""' ""' "'■'«"•'"' the ''Pandora" ("Jeannett^-o! '';',"'■■ """,' '"' "'" "'^'"S^ "> «.andwerehunLe~L*du?Us„;:trr''' ""'! "' ""■ l"'ing too far gone for u«p '„'^'' "'''"■•& the eggs, however, placed about twent/^trbovese?; ■'';""'" *"" '"'■«'■ '■•■'^''• .•xtre„,e -uthwest^." LT, j';! ;:t\r;if;i''';'''' r, *"" "■ere d<.posited about six in,! -, l,-,lV i "' ^'ttletou Island was visited and the trnnr „/'""'"""• '^if«-b'>at O.ve .'n"«o, a .lu™,tt :;„";!''''''' " """''■'"-'--, steau, «"n, H.-., were found o;/™;:,:';;''"' "", ""■'"• «' K«ki.»o hut on the south side f h is ■,; 1 v ,.'' 'r '" "" ""'" remains of nn t?o1 • i^i-ind u ore discovered the liaviuo- been blorkf^il hv .. .^ i «'''"''«i^m\ to the house -'."ber ofltai-u. ;,:;!;'' """"" "^ ' '"• """■'• ""•■" "'0 last «on,e z!;r.ui;::";::,;;t:;;:^ «;-" -- --' <- 1..- r, f ,„, toward fape I aw r' 1';';,, ^"''"*'">' '""■ ' '«■ tli.Mvfore -.■"'- "f Ha..i,e isia:!,'-':,: • ::;;:::" ,;:''»:" •^"" "- ... .-.! .1 ,, ,{^ jjt, smooth J poiid and the eutii eeoastof Enesniereaiid( « a inill- 'riiiiiell lauds was 408 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; not only visible, but reflected perfectly from the water's sur^ face. The view was clear and distinct from Cape Sabine to Cape Napoleon. The highlands near Van Kensselaer Harbor, on the Greenland side, were also plainly visible. No other vessel had gained so high a latitude in those waters with such ease. At 5 a. m. but few pieces of floe or harbor-ice could be seen in Kane Sea, and only two icebergs had been sighted be- tween Capes Sabine and Cape Hawks. Cape Hawks was passed and at 9 a. m the English depot of '75 in Dobbin Bay was examined and found in fair condition. Some of the pickles, preserved potatoes, rum, and the jolly-boat were taken along. The depot, like that on Southeast Cary Island, consisted of thirty-six hundred rations. Grecly hesl- tatetl to disturb it, especially the jolly-boat, but as insufficient funds had prevented him taking along a proper equipment of boats, he felt constrained to do so. At 5 p. m. Cape McClintock was reached and the 80th par- allel crossed. A half hour later Cape Colllnson was sighted, but owing to dense fog no examination of the small English cadu^ was made. At noon of the 4th Franklin Island was passed, both coasts of Kennedy Channel and Hall Basiii as far as Polaris Pro- montory showing up plainly in a dear atmosphere. On a high bench on the north side of a creek emptying into Carl Ritter Bay was established a small depot. In a short excursion u}) the valley, Lieutenant Kislingbury discovered traces of hares, foxes, and musk-cattle. Half a mile off shore, in a sounding of forty-two fathoms, delicate star-fishes and eed- ily regained her former position and terminated her voyage on the afternoon of the 11th. This was in Discovery Harbor, the location of Captain Stephenson's party just five years pre- vious. The ice prevented a landing in Water-course Bay, where an excellent seam of coal and pleasant shores were well suited for a station. Upon hunling, a dozen or more fine musk- cattle were killed. Thick b(Mls of mosses, grasses, sedges, but- tercups and Arctic poppies smiled a cheering welcome to the new-comers. A week later the "Proteus" began her return vovage to St. John's, but being unable to break entirely through' the ice in the bay, it was not until the evening of the 2()th that she effected her escape into Kennedy (liannel and thence home. Mr. (lay, a gentleman of refinement and culture, in order to pacify Dr. Pavy, who had taken offense at him, decided to return with the *M»roteus" that the exi)edition might not be deprived of the services of a physician. Two other men, owing to the development of physical disabilities, were also obliged to return much against their wishes. Thus left alone, the i)arty rapidly pushed forward the erec- tion of a house, which, when tinished, was called FORT CONGER, in honor of the Senator who had so courageously befriended the expedition. On Sunday, August .'istli, all were assembled in the fort, where, at 10 a. m., Lieutenant Greely read a se^ec- m\l 410 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; turn fr..in tlio Psalms for tb^t day of the mouth, counseled the men upon the importance of harmony and calleu their atten- tion in particular to that verse which recites how delightful a thing it is for brethren to dwell together in unity. He also announced that it was both proper and right that the Sabbatli should be observed and that regularly every man would be expected to be present at the services on that day unless he had conscientious scruples against listening to the readin- of the Bible. Lieutenant Greely, however, nearly always r(^ framed from making comments upon the selections read 1 1,, recommended that after services the men sln.uld take exercis,- either in hunting or simply walking from headquarters Until about the middle of October sl(Mlgiug parties were kept almost constantly in the field. Lockwood explored St Patrick's Hay, at the head of which there is a valley with sides dw^ply worn and grooved and conspicuously marked by mesa- • lands, first on one side then on the other, like the mud'tlats of a river, from which it is to be inferred that the valley was once below the level of the sea and occupied by a gla,,j.er-aiid discovered pieces of |-«al but could not locate the seam. He also found a stick of kno ty p.ne three feet lonu- and eij-ht inches in dian.eter frozen ^bo, mTp f 't" "f^'' "* "^ ^'^'"'^^"^ '^^-^ the sea of about 150 feet. In a trip to Sun Hay, Lieutenant (Jreely was fortuna e enough to observe the manner in which musk-cattle (Obtain their f(,od, namely, by first removing the snow by means of .the foot, and then by loosening the thick mats or tufts of saxifraga oppositifolia or dryas octopetah- with nose or horn The results of the autumn's work were highly gratifviu"- the men had received invaluable training, four depots had^bec^n' established noiHlnvard, the scientific apparatus properly placed, new discoveries made in the interior of (Jrinnell Land and twenty-six musk-oxen, ten ducks, two seals, a hare, and a ptarmigan, affording about 0,000 pounds of fresh meat to the party and as much offal to the dogs, secured. Other forms of lif(S noted in that high latitude were moths, files, caterpillars sp.ders,mosquitoes, and "daddy-long-legs," besides a few small hsh in Lake Alexandra. Numerous wolves and foxes also put m an appearance a^ the fort From October 15th to Febi .ary 2Sth occurivd the Arctic night, that period being spent very busily in making and re- «'«»i'ding on an average 520 regular scientific observations daily and in advancing the sup,)lies for the journey northward in l'<' spring. Until about the mhldl(> of November, Robeson ( liaiuKd remained more or less open and i)reyented tiie trans- l.ortahon of ...nnUes to the Greenland side. An abundance of fuel and loo.?, the latter in great variety, kept all in health ^'iid general good cheer, ^uch luxuries as the regular bath and an oc-casional allo^^ ance of liquors and tobacco, together with the regular celebrhtion of the men's birthdays and the "<"nlay8 with games and special bills of fare, shortened the (Jark months very materially. -imti 412 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; On Christmas-fallins on Subbath-niany gift^ which had been sent aboard the "Proteus" by friends and well-wishers of the expedition, were distributed. "A number of the men " s-ivs General Greely, "who had lived lives marked by nej-lect ami indifference on the part of the world, were touched even to tears, although they strove man-like to conceal them The commanding omcer received a fan— not ne nled for Arctic use- and Lieutenant Kisliugbury a small dog, which excited the more amusement when he turned away the ridicule by calling out, *0, Schneider, don't you want to buy a dog?' Poor Schnei- der, who had been caring; f(,r the dogs of the expedition, did not hear the last of it for S(,>iue time." At 10 R. m. Lieutenant Greely read not only the "Psalms for Christmas," but also the laoth and 140th 'Psalms The singing of a hymn and the doxology, led by Lieutenant Kislin.r- bury, formed an imj.ressive service as the tenderest feelings of the men went out to those at home. Washington's Birthday was also appropriately celebrated Fi-om March 1st to lOtli, inclusive, Lockwood, Brainard' Jewell, and the Eskimo Christians^^n, made a sledge trip to Thank (Jod Harbor, where they found the graves of (Viptain Hall, and of the English seamen, Hand and Paul, in excellent condition. A considerable quantity of food and usef iil articles cached there were found to be in serviceable condition. From the harbor the party proceeded to Newman Bav, and ^hence on the ice to ('ai)e Sumner, thus practically circuinscr{bin«v Polaris Promontory. Jiobeson diannel was nien recrossed to "Depot B," near Cape Bc-echey, iii twelve and a hjjlf hours, and the re- turn to Conger was nmde with all in exceilent health The '''ToTx/r"^''''''*"''^ "' '''^''^ *^*^ 1^*"'^^' I'^i^ traveled was — 4J.tJ r ahrcnheit. From March 5th to 9th inclusive, Pavy, with Lvnn and Es- kimo Jen;^ was cmi)loyed in transporting about 700 pounds of provisions to a point on Polaris Promontory designated as the (rap, midway between ( Vipes Lunton and Sumner The average temperature in which they worked was about -30° lahrenheit. From the i:Jt]i to the 30th inclusive, Brainard, OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. ftj with .even men, was engaged i- a si„,i|a,. .,„, t,,^ an»,„,rted mel„,Ii„g the small b.,at "Dis,..,,.;,. -> X ' On h.. l!.th Pavy, Hi,.,. „„,, jeo« i^ft „„ „ „„rti,wanl t,i„ Dopavfuig f,.,.,„ u„,„|„ „ „„ ,„„ Sh ri ,« ; winter (juarters of the "Alert" in ist«; «• ,. ""'""'"i. '"e IIHi Ti,o „• , '" l**!"-"', was reaehei on the H. neatl the stone covering the remains of the Danish inter ■ .-r Petersen an Arctic hare had taken „p his re d „ce «o.ds. He shall wash me, and I shall b,. as white as »„„w " I'a ther on, when near Cape Joseph Henry, o„ , l" l.itl, rnnny races of mnsk-cattle, and tresh tracks of he f x le ' "««i:, hare, and ptarn,!(;an, were observed nort"f onhf :,';pe';rt'zzrb ''" ""•'"■ """"' '""^ ■""- n.ov.M.lf shore^i,', ' beRinn.ng to disintegrate and m, on shoie, they were compelled to abun.lon the tent nro Hi mi iZ !?;r '"*•"' "'"* '""'"" """"»■" >"tit„,Ie8# 'c a( ned 84 . J-ort Conger was again rea.hed on Mav 2,1 -iftw an absence of six weeks. AM were in perfect h « h" ,, t ' b;.'t;;::;;;:f' ■«"""' «'- -" ■'<- --' ^peci:,;;;"':;;.;;::':.;:;,: In a twelve da.vs' trip into the interior of (Jrinnell I and po';: • ; :,;:;;o;;rVi;;r;brf ;.;::;r^ '•i'i™ «- fonnd to be a flord a.'.d z'^^z t^z':^::':: lary rhan.Iler of the fnited States navy, as hIk.w ' 'i , ■ i t «-.v, laeutenant j;ed and occupied by numerous snmll lakes, wliicli, beinj; fearty accomplishing this, there were five sledges, one drawn by eight dogs and accompanied by C'hristiansen as driver and one man, the four otijers drawn by ten men, who constituted a supporting party. The smallest of the men, Whisler, w^eighed 150 pounds: the largest, Ilenrv 203 pounds. b , .,, Leaving Ponger on the 3d and 4th of April, under command of Lieutenant James B. Lockwood, the fith found the party en- OR, LIFE IN THE OREAT WHITE WORLD. 4,j oa.,.|,..,l w,.|l „ut „u the i.e of U«bo«,.u Chanuol. Tl„. i,.u„„.m ;•", but „, Imwovo,., i„t,.„„„ t„ ,.,t„i„ i,i, „^,^, ,;"^^^ » • '-p™; llcnrj- „„ttVri„g with rh-.u-uatix,,,, aL] savs 1 m- ':, ::rt;t:;;::riri:;;:::r--7'''-- - !'<■ .•. Ih,. w„„l attaim.d an estimated velocitv „f sU v n h.s au l„„„-. The ,ueu, however, were ehee.-"^. "^ "^'^ heniK above the noi-the™ horizon at ,„i,l„i,.ht 1 as8inK Cape S.m„,e,. ,|,ey traveled ten h««rs over rou"!, j,u» of wind lifting tlie dog-sledge witli its 200 poiui.l i„.„| > .1, s rnek Halston on the forehead and severe jj I <»»■ At this camp forty lioiirs passe.l before they were b| '. have a satisfactory n„.al. Whisht- »„ffe,,.,I of »■ n „ H e l"»K" 1 «I«>t blood, while liiederbi.k eoi , I i ., if k, '['-'■ dimculty and both returned to t ht ^ T , f u? r'' nned and a new danger was added. Says lirainan 4r ," he high eliff huge rocks were blown w'Lch caZ era h ii g ril fell to_40»,,md ll„. ' I,,,.,.,, of ,|nrt«„o,L ,.ia„... „i„e „.■ fir, six feel l„u,., f.,„ ' inclicK wide and t,nn- imlies Hiieli. tonlnu TlT" '"""!• """' "' •"^' """«"" «'V I'"""™ I«'i- beiml",'..,',""''f '"'■'■ '"•'"■"''•"•' "■"» •■■''-•(■«li..Kl.v ,lee|.,us,.b„f,.s l„„ ,ve,v fi,,„,„ ,„„| ,. ,,„, j,„ „ fou >„eu (o ,m,.„M them. Tl,,.,- «e,.eof l,ulT„lo.sld„„. camn"''The ," "'';'"'"'':'■ «^"'-"' '■"«"" ""'l '""fln"! then, i„ tamp Ihe degs stole thirty pounds more of the meat wlii,l, was"thoug:lit"to beontof theirreaeU Advaneing on the 23d, whe.i onl.y a short distance fron, th,. Emantping near nimk Horn riilTs on the 2Jtl,, (-ap,.„ Sln.ri- dan tlnton and niaek, and the United Wtate. J „„ ,ta , conld be elearb- «oen at a ,lista„,e of abont dfty n.i Tl , '" "' '" '"'•'' ''"■*.'■ ™«"- "'•"■• tlie Hiffs and ..o letelv soaked tlie skin boots of the men. • About this ti.ue Lieutenant Loekwood rea.l a l,.(ter «-ritt,.„ («. rd „tmo and upward, eondilional upon making fie far- best north. Lieutenant Loekwood olTered 50 per ,t, t ,,1 . Iioual reward. "It .seemed " snv« ('......i,. « . tliit «iw...,..„ „. 1 , • .'"'^"' ""." "■'•••ely, "a jirojier intimation tliat suecess would be in .some wav rewarded " _ Near tills rami, Loekwood saw a eouple of ptarmi...,ns in «-.nter plumage. On the 25th Christiansen bee.™e fck b after advaneing a few miles a drink of hot brand ea, «l'l OS eep and he recovered, allowing tbe party to aL r n ■ ntS^eldX''''' '"'""" '"■'"' """" '''- - » -•"' Ti^nfTTrTi'FrT 40°, and the or. Aboil 1 tl found jui loug, four iUU'l'll JHT- «<<'ful, and conu' sore. (1 throe or s. 'nii)k»tel.v r Avrittcn nditional X t'.ie far- I'lit. a(hli- timatiou ilj^ans in sick, but ised him 'o on the ) a point i ^< ^J^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 A A #. <&. 1.0 I.I j|50 ™^» ^ tiS, 2.5 M 1.8 lUS IIIIIM nil 1.6 ni A i-j_ riiuiugidpiUU Sciences Corporation ^ '^y ^^ '^ V.^ V' > 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716) 672-4503 ""^^"»"'"»- -' was^':;,;v"f ::dt::L\r:"vr *"'"''^' "■'^'' -"»'" "'« vicinitv 1 I '^•^S*^*"*'"" "i^t "lave been luxuriant in tUe oS and t^rrr'^v '"° p*-"'--—! *-' t^M ciiiu lemmings Avere observed. The tr-if.t« ^f o k «o.n, noHbea. and abundant trace, of .u:^^; l^al": iuoit"';::'';; 'fu^^,:'"!;"-' '- ^rP-"'- »- .-«ant n,eu, - u^q^t- cr ::i;it"[:::r;:r"'"'- "" -'- very appr„; i'lTy ..esln te^' t""' """""' "■'"^'' ''" '^'"' efforts of Brainard whf • '^""""""'"■■''te the tireless «.s.. .m(ii The sledging work for the season of 1882 over, the arrivil of a rehef steamer was anxiously awaited at a,nger none came, and although there was still an abundance ;f ' . Pl.es for another year, there was considerable disco^ Igem I OR. LiFfi IN THE GRfcAT WHITE WORLt). 419 ter. The il, effect, of this, UoweverGrle ;"""''''■" of game in the virinitv Zn ^ ["^trations ot the abundance rett„,rortVe'^;:reL'f;;;v^ A relief steamer, the "Nentjinp " Vm/i ,-», i ^ u after „„ivi„g at Pa'ndora HaZ; in th "v1 i 'it ""f ntt'; T Inland, remained there more tbau a week Imntil ,L - ,n «"t a succession of southwesterly gales" insteaS of t f i-awks, n A« jrxiit;nVai"r;:;:rrrri:tr: mtle farther south, but failed to establish other ZuZZ and, but upon arriving at Black Horn CM , Aprt t'l ^e™' tj-fou^" days earlier thnn in isso „-4-u j, . ^ ' u\eu- smmm ;■;»..- of this trip Sergeant .lewell n.ade ^I ,ab e t dal "ea^" -:.aT;ir;r^o=rn'd^L':;s^^^^^^^^ 420 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; i^rom April 25th to May 2GthLockwood and Brainard with Christiansen, were engaged in exploring the interior otGr 1 nel Land the trip resulting in the discovery and partial exnlo" ration of Greely Fiord on the west coast. ^^"' As the summer of 1883 advanced apace all again anxiously awaited the arrival of the relief steamer. But none came f!^^ a though the "Proteus" and the "Yantic" passed rpoint^ of Cape Sabine, no supplies to speak of were deoositPd h "Proteus" was crushed in the ice and the "Yantirmtn i with all her relief stores aboard. turned Some one had evidently blundered and the brave men nf Conger were thrown upon their own resources. Abandonim the station on the 8th of August, 1883, after a perilous voT^e of hfty-one days the entire party arrived in good health the 29th of September, near Cape Sabine-ou'lya few mi ;!; west of Dr. Kane's headquarters-where, in the ^rZZ months of darkness, cold, and squalor, was to transpire a sce^e of miserable yet heroic starvation such as had never before been enacted. wriuje In a wretched hut but little more than three feet high and built of stones and snow-blocks, the whale-boat and pieces of canvas serving as a roof, these men, twentv-five in number remained huddled together for long and painful months In November a party was sent to Cape Isabella to obtain one hundred pounds of preserved meat ft there by the En<. hsh expedition. On this trip Elison froze his hands, feet and face to a most horrible extent and amputation of the limbs was ultimately resorted to in order to save his life The cravings for food about this time seemed nearly („ drive some if not all of the men insane. In order to relieve the mental strain, lectures and discussions on various topics were held. Lieutenant Greely talked on the geography of the United States; Lieutenant I^ckwood read from the "History of Our Own Times"; Whisler dilated on the city of Indepen.i- ence, Kansas, as a splendid place for business; Frederick and Long proposed to set up restaurants upon their return the former in Minneapolis, and the latter in Ann Arbor, while Jew- ell thought that a erooppv «t«..^ • ,. tfe most satisfaoto.^ to Wm I 'a h,?'", """'•' P™^* '» "^ the effects of iut^n.^:^^;;^^ Zt "t"^' ""'"""'•' '-'» read the burial service over his hi f , ^"""''■"'■■t "leely -a« buried with mnrkedre-'et 0:1, *,"''" •"''' '""' "^ luterment he would have been ft^^A- ! "^ following his quite a quantity of bread and hn/ u ^^'' "■"' ""d ^-ved the event. ^ "'"' *•"*'«•■ «"th which to celebrate . Early in February Rice and To aeto Littleton IslanJ, h,^pCtetdr '""'■'<' *° """^ *"- '•ommunicate with the friendfv " t T " ""P"' ""I «'«" to ten miles from the islandTpen watiw^ "l""'- ^"^ ^bout to the miserable death hole ™ Camo 7" ""' ""^ "■"'™<'" "Of course we are all very muehdf ^^ '""''^•""d recorded: ;• bold front, and are notCt ' nT'l"''"' "'^ P""^ '""e been counted on to last untU Mafci. Z?*;, """l ^""""^ "ave of welve ounces of bread and ten o„ ,! ' '"''' ^''"^ " ''''"0=' ■u March to cross the straits s„ ,? ' "' """»' '"■■ ten dnys " our fate is the worst, I do not 2k" '"" T""' "'""«-« nam^ of Americans and of soldTers' " ''"'" <"^S™^- the upon 1 fero,!ncei'lf !;H,"^„;''„tr """ "^P-u-Jius largely lurge as millet seeds, or " "mill t T^'f'" '" "''' """"t as -:-o till a gill measurrtte'r /---;— ..nd^stf r ^hrr-r /.r-t™ "'^ - "^ -p- «bom Lockwood wrote- «He t^ ^ brist.ansen, concerning «reat affection for him. ' IiUhZ^T", "T,"' ''""' ' '"'» ^ "oe, and never spared himself on n„v • > " ''" ""^ ^''"- 'uakes me feel very sorrow!^, - ' """'«' *"P- "'« death 423 liked and THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; to cape iX'l.^r Ct.^: tr n ''^'""•""'- "" ""' "U' culliug the u,otto ;f Kentu'kv "t le '""^P'-^y. ,(,.. ■ fail," he pathetically reiterat «! it^s n I '""'' "'""*'" ""^ meat oceasionali, beeame nel!^!"/; "'"'P'""' "■"' "'-""^^^-^ lowiai. t..iM.e:°Ser.r,:.':r : ~;rt':;""- «ru:rrerSp„r]r;;r'''r and retiring natnfe. he UidTt':! ' 1 r:;;/';."'?;'-' personal qiialitios iiiviri^ihi,^ ^^t^uus quicJJy, but his f".n, an .-lliou^el::, ; ''^,r,r:::';'^l, ■'fP-^- «l"w te to the a,..o„,p,ish„,ent of is nC !"?;" '^ '''''''■*'*^ tie», and not to g„„d fortune, mu be aU,4l u •'"'■'" '"""'■ f Pro- Frederick, who took fron/hirown h ll '"'" "^^"'^^ "^ with which to wrap poor m!2 i^^^an^.Un ^ 'r T ^"'^^'^ on the sled«e hokling and endeavor nJiL '^'"'^ "^^^^^'^« man, he died at a ^^larte^'^^^^ Xht'^^^^'f '^""^ deared himself to his comrades nnd „ ^ '"^ ^^'^ ^«- «aeep.nonr„ingan.ongrra%y^^ -^"^^^'^^^^^^^^^ arge physically, he had done extraor itl; in ""f "'" b.s meteorological observations le^aZJ^J ^''J^' """' conscientiously made. always efficiently and Abont this time Lonir and Tono i,!n j n„ and Jens killed a young bear weigh- a the trip filing for f'ly. Kc- ^'ided We courage- I rapidly Ij', Willi- 'utenuut the fol- : officer, esH, aud niode.st but liis ■^low to nergies ' quali- ^at sue- ' bini a ce, and Q." It witli of pro- orts of jaoJfet deeves failing ad en- death mbers enant 1 not :, and '' and 'eigb- OR, LIFE ,N THE OBBAT WHITE WORLa ue with Long. His bifj l.^n ,?,in2;i '''''' ''""•'■''« "" *''« f" have gr,.at afTeeti,,^ fo ,i " , rt"?.""'"'"""""' "" liunting witi, Long, the ice h l.„ ■ T *■'■ ""■'"<'"" »'"••' t" »ea oa a detaclT;,! floe I ' th^ ,"'"'' "'"" «""'■" ""' ret..™ to fast ice, tbe l„e.- 1 f ."l V'"^''' '"«'"« J-'^ to paddled out tohi^, myfnl "Zny "'"""" '" "" "'' '""' iy, both were drifted aZe *" "^ *-'"' *""" P"««xate. aetive;Z*heTi„Trt: J^ '""'' *'"'* "''='"«' » »'->«. »uccumb to .tarvathm l(a 1' I " ,'T'*"" "' "'^ ^■'''^'' ^ server and Aeld-man, In'ted ont?".]';'' "'*'" "" "'""-■'t ob- «.■ faithful fellow, on the 2C ' "'"' ^^■'™'"' "■"'"'• «ate in the BcientSrt wa, ^f 'i "'''"' """ """'P'"' »>"«- comrades. I„ following his cttomf *",• """-' ""' '" »''»' vice at the death of each man I ,. '■"*"'"'« ""^ "»"'" «er- "< Israel, who w.s a Jet luted e""' """-'"' '" '"<- '^^»«'' bedistastefult„hispe„;re: iTsni e,f7 ""p'™ ""''='' ^"""^ I.e had borne the hard struggHl' , r'' m '"''" '"'''''""'' S..m.„er opened with a how i "^.f '„7"f . unless relief came speedily the rema „in I f V'"^' ™""'' "'"' pass away. Lieutenant ICislilbm ' "*" T*'^" """" >"""> "flicer, who had exerted hirelfm^' V """"'' '"""•"orking treat and at Sabine, died o^t e H/f ,''' """"'« "'" "'«" ■•- approached he sang the doxol"g/:, .„,';;"•, ^^ "^ »"" -<' ™ S'- ""-'• --"^ ■-. -« t' ::x::;nd died ..otfd" privrCr^tttgr «"• ^"* '" "'^ '^ - - ^ food belonging to otSr, InT^^'r "T"",*""'" <"'"'«''* ^'«"i»g -eformation, was shot Is the onf'^"^ *° '''"P "'« P''"""^'"' «* --^"^-hanceforiife. ^^irrror^'^^f -' l^ 7 "• T> ivujjj^ Uttk'.'M'W ' 424 THE SE>\ iCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ivc hourn of Ins oxec fion Bender and Dr. Pavy passed quietly bi^yond. Bender wa an indush'iouH, in,.eni<.us man and had done good service butli at Conj,^>r and at Sabine. I)r i^vv despite his serious deiVvts of mood and earlier "Bohemian life "' tonding to mar the harmony of thc« party, had shown restless expert': "' ""' ''"''' '"'' "' "" "'^^"^'^^ ^°^ ^ ^^^^^^ Nearly a week later, on the 12th, Gardiner, who appeared to have lived for the previous two months mainly iy j power, died of inlUimmation of the bowels and starvation As the end approached l>e held in his hands an ambrotype of his 7v! r\r'^''"' ""^ "* *^" ""''y '"«* exclaimed, "Mother- wife. He was a youn^^ „,an of excellent habits, fine mind and ambitious appli, ation, and was beloved by his companivas ha.l with the Seotelf w nir! , ''"^" " ^'""''y ■'''<■«' .v«a,.d „t W,«00 «feeV;'tn' l"rr*'''''" '" '"'" '"" tenant Oreelv's party ^"Hfcress for the rescue of Lieu- ut^rfsiirxr^iZ :^^^^^^^^ "«-"' ---"^^ party, tliev directerl thJ^^' ^ ^""^ ^""^^^ '^^ the Greely discovered various mn«l • , "^^ island, in. a cairn, were Ueutenant L^:^.^ ":^::;^^^ ^f « -cord left by ••a»ip four and a half mUes vvt. f n ^""'^^ ^'"^ ^«°^ "^^to way between tharDoin In^ n , ^^ '^"^•""' "^ ^^'^"t mid- men, all well' ^ '"^ ^^'^"^ ^^'-^^ I«^^»"^- Twenty.five WITH A CHEER K'lle was raging at the timJ .1, T",, ^'""""g'' « terrific ;.a "e remarked u The survivors. Lieutenant (Jreelv Km-o-^nnf n • pora. Elison, a.u. Private. Biederb 1 1"' 1 '.'",'""'' ''"■•■ Lo,„, ana eleven e«rp„e» having been'.ak "aboa i IT"'' ','"'! vessels started „„ the l.onieward yJZ Fli, n r '", "' a second amputation. „n the 8th ofj'.i^fa, niT '""' "'"■"« Ou the2d of AuKust, a most beautiful day, the "Thetis " Beaiv" and "Ale,-," entered the harbor „f Poi^n uth N ', Ue shores were lin,.l with people, and the harbo w h «„ j w th steau,ers, saiLboats and small eraft of everv del „, , al appropriately dressed with flags and streanfers ' relief vessels parsed the ships of war thecTewsT-f Ihe l.t swarmed in the rigging au.l gave them ""'"' CHEER UPON CHEER, and as the anchor was cast, tlie band on the flag-shin olived "Home Ag..,," and again the harbor and enelosfng h.''f,:' sounded w,th cheer after cheer. At the instant the "1^^', is- came to rest Mrs. Oreely went aboanl. au.l there n the m, et ttrL?: ™''"'' ''' """' ''''""'' '" - "-ba:d" im,r;::: Of the dead, the remains of those brought back were buried .a the various States to which they belonged. Ueulnant kL I OR. u™ ,N THE GREAT wmTE WORLD. „ liiiffbiiry rostH at l{o,.i„.„t„- « v '"' '!'<■ I.i-a„(iful c(.„ieti...v ot'th,'. N,'.' ? . f''<'"t"nant Uckwood «t. Am,,., „,„.,.„ ,„.,;, t.a :r T """ "■'"" ""^^ ^•''"'•^" "' o-""- ..■«■■» a,„. six .„!,a ';:'";; r;:,!'. "■■■ t ""' ""'■ I'luci. a,ail«.,l bv a l„i„l, .„„„.,. .i.', • '^ '" ''''' restiug- ^■■■OH^MI ,•„ .lM.„it..„a „, ' .' T""'^- '""'■■•"«-'. I'-t « tablet lieu: "iuisla.,1, beait, tbe f„ll„„iujj iuserip. In Memorlam Plr«f ./"^.^^^ "• LOCKWOOD. First Lieutenant Twenty-Third infantry A Member of the Died Tn^ ^°"''" E'^P^dltJon, Died at Cape Sabine. Orlnnell Land April 9, 1884. ' m THE SEARCH FOR TH£J NORrH POLE; I CHAPTER XLI. NANSEN'S FIRST TRIUMPH AS AN EXPLORER.-UFE AND CUSTOMS OF THE ESKIMOS. Of all undertakings in tlie great wliite world tI,o «„ * • ney across Greenland by tUe^ntrepid Llndinlvian I,'"",";- Nansen, scl.olar and explorer, seems the ™„st "„ ' , ' i prompts our Uearty admiration. ™'' ""'' Ever since the investigations of the learne.i n, ,,i , . tist, writer and missionary among the EsUin^o; „f C'^r Greenland, during the middle portfon of the presl/, ?""' the great inland ice, or ice-cap of Gree,,l,„?i , ™*'"'^' interest of the scientific worW *^'^"™"""'' ""« ««ted the tees'^of T-"*" *" f ""' "' °'- ^'•'^' "^ «"" """ng the devo ry:"S- r tt^^:ited"^t^^•^ "-*- - "i;: With Mr. Maigafrd, a Danisl S of't th ';i^;enl,;7':i,"; wise journeyed with sledge and snow-shoe into the .nt'e ' ' Gr^nZd^ ""'""""^ "' ^'- ^^"^'^ ■o-goontinu^ 'C •'„ of tfTeeVff «,!'""' *":■ °'"- '''"''''" ''*«''" ■"" investigations of the ce off the opposite, or east, coast of Greenland. Return. land f "' "T'' "" '""''^ P""^"'" " P'"- to "'"^^ South Oe. gom'niil ,::;f'"' f ! '""""'■■" "■"•'"« appealed to M„. goveinment for tlje modest sum of |1,331 with which to defray I thee jecte and ! Dane Ir to rel heart besid( defraj ackno as wel Tu we the (Iriftin t'ountr I^apps, iiiililvfi( "Jason, taken t is soon and, lal Now that th( «iderabJ .young I ^'iit from ^^apland "Jont, wl Ontl latitude rhirtyan Tend to meet i nioro grej ! S the expenses of the uii.,v ti jeeted. His mad perseverant' h """'' ""^ P«""^'^ ■•e- aud benefactor i« the pZnlf M 7"' '"■""«"* ''"" " W«'d Dane, who became hisTard: b dfe"'"* """""' " -™'^"y In Nausen'8 narrative .»f h. • to relate, Le does not fanrpaTju^Srf ^^'^ ^^ ^bout lieartily thanks also the "^^ ^^ ^^« friend. He "COMMITTEE OF STITDENTS' UNION " besides a lar^e liinr.hor ..# i • ..efray ...eex^eZ'^rth" e"^;:;"":^'"? 'T ^""'■■""-- to acknowledge gratefully official coTrt^i^,"' "" "'^Slectto ..swell as the self-deujing artsof thin "''"'''' '"^«'<'«-«'. Turning now to the ice^off he Lutl e^t '"•™"'I«'»^''''8 Wn. «-e there see, on the 17th of July iggs ! T'' "' ^''''''-land, .IHfting so,.,hward with the T^'e The ^'^ ^."'"P""-" <" '"™ eountrymen, Sverdrup, Dietrichs;n KrL"*' ' ^'''"''■"' '''^ l-apps, Kavna and Bait ,. They rre-.t.t •""■"' '""^ "^^ '«"> ".ilikflord, endeavoring to t^il t,.^ , "'"" ""'''^" '■■»■» ««^r. "Jason," Captain J.^^Zf^XtTu J'" "■""'"» ^--l t..ken then, as near the coast as tief n '"" '"'"^'- "^'""g is soon lost to yiew asX f„.^s ^o ,"'! '''™*- '^''^ «'"? ..ud later, to direct her cLrLmerrd"'^' ^"""*'' «™-"' slderable rain fel, npon t, fen. Tr 'l °" '"" '"*" ■•• '•""■ .vonngBalto-began top, ™t,, " ^P^-oM Ravna and H..tfrom that .,f ^ar^nlfo tl" "'f"/""'""™- then so differ- '-apland forests. Rartrje''.r '''''* '" *"' """"''''' -■nt, w,„> ,„„„, „./;:r„';->f, -0 '-.n his New Testa- 'hntjand thirty-fly; mile, "onf i T"" ""''""" ""t""™ -« ..a.s later a la'rC^-^rX;:,'.' "rery'-r ^ GREATLY SURPRISED <^o meet two vniiurr ir-.,! • i»v(i >()inin Eskimos n tlioii' i-vni-o m "I'M, j4n-ailv HiiM>..;^,r.,T <-., 1 • J .i« , 111 ■2B »-at]j- surprised to obser ve them w wpre still earing- gannonts in 430 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; part at least of European manufacture. One of them wore a jacket of blue cotton stuff spotted with white, and a low crowned, broad and Hat-rimmed hat formed by means of -i wooden ring covered with blue cotton stuff, the crown beino marked w.th a large red cross. The two youths were members of a large se t ement who were living in their summer tents or tu-picks, of dried seal-skins, at this point of Kioge Bav Thev were very hospitable and assisted the Europeans in carrv^ • ashore their effects. Upon visiting their tents Dr. Nansen w.s tendered the usual Eskimo greeting, namely, that of rubb n. noses. An old woman showed him a bit of " DUTCH SCREW TOBACCO, vvOiile a man displayed a knife having a long handle of bone These articles were doubtless obtained in barter from the Dan ish-Eskimo settlements in the vicinity of Cape Farewell At once Dr. Nansen began to transport his supplies up the coast-slope to the edge of the great inland ice, reaching, on the 10th of August, his last encampment on the east coast A week later the courageous men were fairly under wav on the gre.at white wilderness, which stretched out before them in one unbroken sheet of whiteness to Godthaab, on (he west coast. During halts for rest the men sheltered themselves with- in a tent, where they read the few scientific books carried with them, told stories, and wrote in their diaries. The Lapps cravP assiduous attention to the New Testament and to their journals follows!" '''''" '''"*' """"'"'"'^ ^'^ ^''"°'^' "^ ^^^^ P"' ^^^°^''«« Breakfast-Chocolate made with melted snow or tea bis- cuit, hver pat(^, pemmican. ' Dinner-Lemonade poured over some snow, oat-meal bis- cuit, liver, pemmican. "'^ Afternoon lunch-Biscuit, liver, pemmican. Supper-Pea, bean or lentil soup, biscuit, pemmican. Each man was allowed one-half pound of butter a week The use of spirituous liquors and of chewing tobacco was OR, LIFE IN THE .GREAT WHITE WORLD. 431 occasional pipe. especially the Lapps— an "I am an old Lapp, and "A SILLY OLD POOL t" then, f..o,u the uo.u^P .« ^' . ""Tw!'' H '"« "*'"°'^ ()" tl>; iiex-fU V .,.:,' '■'■ '"'""« ""• "i^'t '•""St- an., t... favo;^ :io';;'.';:Si.;ru.e''''" -' "-■ ''-™-'''-''^ . SLEDGES WITH SAILS. To tho advance sledge Dr. Xanspn nn,i v..- *■ ues.se.l themselves whih" «,., , i . I^nstiansen har- «p..a„« forward, s^.o"; ,',:', I™: "7"'" ;'"" >>'<' x^''0.>' Xan.se„ and K;istia„sen.t.M,.;t;':i;: '''"'" '""" '■^■•■ ■MKl was left far behind V ,' """" ''''''""''^ '"« '"'I'l .-n. for, his I ; ; .:;„i.'^;'* '"^ ""fortunate was ,.r. Na„. 'M.iftofharden,.;s„ro;eH,ewrT.' "7''' "'''■'""« '" •-• i-"«ers. Moreover. a„ a.on, ^s wi":, "ZZ i;' t.^^ 432 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; articles, notably tlio tins of proeions ponnnican, wliiVh had b^Mi shaken from their unstable position. These, Dr. Nausen and Kristianseu were pickiuo' „p and carrying along in pursuii of the sledge when they were overtaken by the rear sledgv, likewise rigged but more fortunately managed, by Dietrichsvii and the two Lapps. They, too, however, had lost from tlieir sledge some of the pemmican, thus necessitating a delay while it was being restored. Meanwhile Sverdrup had discovered the absence of his passengers and brought his craft to a stand- still, and awaited their arrival with the rear sledge. Experience soon maintained control of these strange affairs and fine sailing was accordingly met with. Suddenly, on the 19th, Balto, looking ahead, shouted to Die- trichsen, "I CAN SEE LAND!" It was indeed land, and at the next meal their arrival within view of it was "celebrated with the best they had," viz., jam, American biscuits, and butter. They had likewise celebrated' their start upon the journey on the east coast and their arrival at the highest elevation of the ice cap. Two days later they enjoyed from the west coast copious ^Pend the ensuing AT GODTHAAB. that the Jmi r ;; t^'?;''?."'*'''''"'''"- "'•"'-■"•.i that „f tlu. V tk., ,1 M f •"•^■^"""'"''■'•x i« «.'<-atl.v iik,. i"t .vi.ihivans, altlionuh iispn.^i!2:\7Z r;,:e'H.:r""' """••"™'"' "•'"> ■^'■'" for their voyages ttn b« o e ve L'T''''"' '"^-''^ """""™^' "n.l with death. Durin Al 'e ; ' H """'•*"";""' '"" «ave« n^n;^nkingwiththea,1i;p^;:r;;--^^ 434 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "for," explains an oarJy missionary, E-co-de. "tlio wI.oTo nn . oudure uncleanlinoss and will otL Jso aJ^tU^^'^, '"""'^ Dunng the sumnior the natives cbanKo their -iIxwIp^ f.. place to plaee in search of better hunting loullitits ''"^ THE POOD OF THE ESKIMO ise««entiallj meat, eaten, for the nio.t p„,t, raw, auj nuah of he tnne fozeu. S«,ueti,nes, l,„„ever, it i„ bole.l o" IJ m he dried state. Fermented meat, too, especially vntl shales, „-,tl, ,ts sweetish, eream taste, is not to be dt,is« <'veu by white tuen ..„j„„r„ia,^ in the nm-th world ' M>H-«k, the thick skin of wluiies and porpoises,' when e-iten «-.tb a la,er of blubber attached, tastes „, uel. like n°ts nS »;•;.;;;> ;o"t.il.nte to th.. larder in times of str i '° : ^r an the sea-btrds are more sought for than the eelebra ed Pta ,„igans---t be n.ost .lelicions of land-birds. The eyefof he feathered tnbes are eaten as choice morsels, while the r vi, .1^ furnish a very desirable variation to the solid 1 e. nl i .nieats Furthermore, this dietary Z:;^'^^^:^ «.th the contents of the reindeer's stomach-an ar",n i sa ic,. which, fosetber with fermented milk, is offers" v| w, 1, ldubb<.r ami erowberries. Kot uncomn'ion de erts S.SI of sea-weeds, bilberries, erowberries, sorrels, dand.-li salads, and angelica stalks served in train oil The entrails of seals and the skins of birds' le-s when filled foil", «h<.n frozen, a sort of candyrelish. In short there is :;;':.;; "'Ttr';"- ".■?'" ""^ '''" »«"" "'-•■■ "-^ ^^^^-^ s do ;;:,!;? " •""^"■''™P'«"1 "-w, or raven. Even h.s dogs «,i| „„t ,,p,„„ ^„ j„^j^ .j^ kuows from experiment, having shot and offered to his E^Lil: OB, UFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. ^ (logs several of these hip,u ,„i„- i tl"; huugr, dogs, but as qSeklJ eieZ T'""' ""'""' ''^• lia.1 .■.e.-el^ smelled of them '""" "" ""^ •'"S" iu/:;r:zrtr;Lr;c;rcr -' -^ "■ - iatroduced many benefloial ehl„ ^ f? '"' •"'>"'™-. have auiuseme„t^rt?ef:;;::s^^^^^^^ thei^t7i"m:;r^;,::7:'rrr''^''''"" ''"' """""■« '<»• that they stood abmit ,! . "^ "''°" *"" """■■' ""«'«! clothes in a "" y aXva , f ' '" '"""'"""• ''™'""" 'o the lady aeeordin^y caused so?" ';"™""''"'""'' P"»iti«n. The ■■est for the tub T '1,^ h " ""'"*''" '" "" « kind intention,- tep,:,C;trr''' "''™°<'™ta»'"ins the the. labors from th-^^Vnir e eir-^dl^r:^'- '" "- four or Ave times dat nT^f""^ '"''''"•" '"''^^ ^"^'^ among them. The vo^n^ n^en ' '' '' "'""■'"■'gly common excess ^ '°^ """" ""^ "«t allowed to use it to ti.ertt:rs:;i;':St?ar7hr T-^'^^^^^ - tlie women of the west coasl " "''" ""'''' """'"8 witMn™the b:,:.r:t,f pCe^f "^^-^'^'-^ """'^- '^ "> P'aee top of this a ha pipe „7lr tobac' '"f '"»" ""'""="^''' ""I "" half, allowing the'm':, ZTZoXZ '" ^"?''' '"^ "^^ ont the ashes, thus preparing the restrfor?!"'™'"""' """•'■• Anmng the South Greenlandc^s the use n?•"?°'•'''*"^"• <•arefuIIy guarded by theofflciik Tl „ , 'ntoxicants is company are allowed, how^'^n ■<,,,' .'■'"'l'''^'^'* ""'''' Danish thns obtained was at flrs Yen 'in ""*' !"''""" "«^ "I'-or 'ity had been laid b h™', "e;:"''"™]'" " """^'™' I"- "«i a gerxcrm and partnership drunk 436 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POL .E: was indulged in. This is no lonoor tnlorn. i i. , fe forK„tte„ that t,„. Kski ' ^tL ^ J:r':T CHARACTER AND SOCIAL CONDITION iuanj |K>int.s aiv worthy of onn.lation by .noiv illustrious rar.s ( t all (,od's creatures he is giftc.l with the best dis.x.sil , n' (-od humor, peaeeableness and evenness of ten.pe " J- linn. No tenns of abuse and .nUun.elv c-s^ . , hh " -th to contradict, ho words his ren.onstranu. in 11 o ' f.u (s, and M.Idon. desires to reclaim st<.Ien ,,r(,,.ertv. With M . meekness of Luke he would say: "Give to everv n ■ n tl etb of thee; and of him that taketh awa^ h'to " Tn not again." Happy being bel anvoH<:::;r:,:xi:;;v: ::':;r^vr ■"•■■■ ;"■• «itl, tUe u,.,.,n,. 1 S , ; "'"^" '•','■•'""' -"".xl"' ■<« an , ,„ "f -lyinK fro 'the Kn" ''"*'"f"' """ ""'» > ■" ■■.,•, "iun.s «rc.at "kill! '""""™"^' '""■ »•"■ h«'-lmua ...ubroul..^ Wore it not for her miiIfifr»M ri„+; . i f.'rior to liei- male in.,«tl, • -^'"'""K'' rfKa'M.'d uh iu- Th,. bii-tli of a son i» hailed ,vi,i, „roat ,,(.li„l,t hv i„.,i ent. as .uUicatlugan a.l,.ifio„ ..t ^ ^u.U :!:^:^lX2r' MARRIAGE among the Eskimos is generally in the form of a <.aptnre ITe loves, proposes, and is invariably rejected not v I IT * i «lio, too, may love. To say "Yes- w nld h, "'^'"^' .;;-^anau.«nHoHs.^;.,.ef:o:;:^,r;;;:;;fr,z formal "capture" is xtili in ,.„ ■ ""'"'"""K I'aHn.s. Tljo ,. "1""" '» *'fill m vogue in East Oreenlin.l ti. . divorce is eorresponilinply easy r.,.ne,...ii V ""' «ife is allowable to ea^i ma ,'. .aZ 11' T ''^ '"" '""' Orcenlandbeniavtaketwo T e« 1 ' '""' ''""'* "' of the bouseliold ' On t e "■" '■''"""'"' ' ''" '"'"'I familv. r-h d i,irt all h""' •''"'"■™ '"•''""•'"« '" -"<•" c iiv'ssi 1 th„ rr^ '"'" '•" ■■'-'"•■"•k"W.v <-"sv. For p«-d Of or, fro,„\:i:;:, :::!'jx:r r "" "'^™'^'' '"^- 438 THE SRARCII FOR THR NORTH POLE; HuHband aiui wife live vciv hnnnii., * .luring „l,l „K,.. ■ ""•' "'«''""•'•- ""Vmny The l„v,. (lispla.vcl by H„. pmriiU l-^''-'"»«-ali. t IN MORALS the Eskimo is iiatiiially honest. IntercoiirsP with T.^ ....«, ..owev..,, «.n„, ,„ „.«,„ „i„ ,s,;:: .fHr,;? ■•-"."■.t. still. I„. «„ «...„pul,.,„lv ,.,..a,.,ls II,,. s',': rr" '"' """""■•• ' 'irifi-«-„i „„,.,. piu. :;;';'' erimKht lalcrhapp™ „p„„ th,. .Ma,„,M|uantitv '"""""^ -"'""'• _ Marclo,- s,.|,1,,m, happ,.„». 1„ ,,,«.» „f |„,;. „„,,( , . L o.,„,e wo„l.l app,.a,. to be of too f,,.,|,u.„t ,„.nnT;„..rT .' attaik .» tL,.„ n.aile m'vvMy. It is probably fort.iuate that Z iisp of poisons is unknown to the race. .n J."*r",'"*'";'"""' ""■ '"""**' """'''*"^' "f *'"■ '•'»1'1"'<' women '<' «-" t" I'^alth and hardi- Among the So„thOreenlandnatives,marriage between first I I OR. UFB IN THE ORl^AT WHITE WORLD. 439 coUNiiiM iH i> ohihiffil 'I'll. ;;."-il.^^!,^J^;;::!;,.;;:;;:'X::;^l;;;::•;^ 111- ina,ii„l n.|„li„„ „f ,1.,. f,.,„. |. 1'. ' ]'"'"" '"""'' ; - in w„i,.„ „,„. ,„. J:::t:x:::;'C''iT '""'■"'■''. 1>I"<'; if a ivi.L.w 1,,, '.";■"""■' " "■'! '■'I'li"i'; if •;■""<■'■ "i.i.ii.aiio„ of „„. „,„,!,*„';;';;'■ T "1 !" " ^;:!m^!■:n:;;::;;::';,:':^^'•"'r''"'-^^ ». 'n. -".;su .;!. ;;:i';',:::'r "»muy 'a,:, i!>«o„u'i V i',: :::::; '""""■';"""■ "sed by thorn. ' ""^'-M'l'ics have never been of five each. ^ '^ ^'^ '" '"^"^^^ finM<^i'-«r<.ups In imisie his talent is not laekin^r and -ilfLnn i 440 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; AN ESKIMO NEWdPAPER was estnblished in South Greeuiand, i« 1881, by Dr. Rink It beai-s tlie imposing title of "A-tu-ag-agdliu-t 1 " or r', ,.?', , TLing. .bat.sbo„id.be,.nown. It i^ pS'l't o!. tb Lars Moller, a native Eskimo, but educated in CopenLa -™ He not only draws, but also lithographs bis own illustradon '<-• 't. It is published monthly and contains tr\„lil iouug Moller is also something of a taxidermist and th, writer recalls with pleasure a yisit to his sanctu.n audXi^ «lH.p ' ,n the autumn of 1894, and was pleased to receiye from 1 m, two flue Greeulaud eagle-skins ready for mount ug ," given m exchange for an American overcoat. IN RELIGION, the Eskimos appear to believe that man is endowed with two souls-one a shadow, the other a breath. Everyth n. s *" ;,■;; As ,7"- «r"'-"- --gni»s both theC; a d't s • T, "■ ■ ""'^' "" <'«-''«>'S«l and broken, so may 1 ■ s"ul. he name of a person is also believed to be distinct ■ J The hrst ch.ld born aft,.r the death of a per.sou is ,.,lied h ■ ,1 ' nan,, borne by the ,leceased. Yet, should o of ,' I '^ : bearing the same name die, the survivor i,ume.liat ch ..ssumes bet«een the sau.e names, an,l that they should not be sepa- They ,li,Mke not only to touch the bo.lies, but also to sneak ue°;";rti'; : r;'""," • '"""•" ■* '^ "-' ""■"••«" ■■. '"»*- *« b are ofh r !; V'".*""'" ■"' *'"" *"'"" "W>.'«aohing death tospe I 'tl^ir , r"' """""■"' *'"" """ ^'"'* "■•'•""'nn.lers fear Ih ' ;T ' "'■''™'"'"'- ^Vhen a,.ked imlividuallv to uqiiesting a companion to answer for thum. or; LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD 441 The ovei'flowiujr of tbis l-ilo H i. ■ "^ ^^•^'• the eurth. " ' '^ '' '''''^' ''^'"^^'^ ^^'^ raiij upon 't'lei at la^ <)i. (Migaocd ,n the festivities of the dance 'VI (icain the bodjes are etiiei' cjist infn <^i... . "P<.u a bare reek, or within ..si., ''^•'' "' ^'^''''''^ with a covered roircrnT.^ /'''"''''"" ""'^ ^''••'^''^^'^^ n.a ":e;rt ::;n:;;c;;:;i':r^ - -^ -.^n of «.™ ,„ato., with •r::'„':y':rer;^"'"' "™" '"■ *-"■""'«■' -^ n«« •■ Muau- rAssiMo nTKjLAwuio* »«.■«, *uo. a, ini. 442 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE?- CHAPTEK XLli: WITH LIEUTENANT PEARY.-THE AUTHOR'S PLANS FOR POLAR RESEARCH.-COMRADE ASTRUP'S ^P TO MELVILLE BAY. Just seven years after the return nf h... ^aC, !.,.„,„„ Bn, Expedition U^eZa . L^ "illr-t sT Joliu'., Newfcmdlaud, set sail fro.u New Y„ -k vi/h II Mr. rear,'.s camp a v^ar later an,, e tot iltis n Wv „T't ' t.«u afte,. a „,ost enjoyable a„,l s,„.,.es , t tol !fTw T" m.;..tl. just below latitu.l.. 78°, i„ ^^,rtlnv« tenfau i rr "nlj. occurrence to mar the pleasure of tlu- fin I'^s i ,?'' disappearance of Mr. Verhoeff on tbe ev. of H « , "'"'■" Mom some fri^v^fm orevcc.e of a glacier which hi ,T tlentlj attempted to cross alone ^'^'^ ''''^- North GreenliiKl t,,.,, i- . ^ inland ice caj) of onnof ''".•^"''- ^»'«vehn-atan elevation of from 4 000 tn .),000 foot, a jonrney of 000 miles bronoj.t tl.^n, I bie opening on the northeast coa^o? Gi^ n 11"^^"^" ''^ OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 44, '■"•1° 37' north, lonmtiule 34° west Ti.ic 5« killed rt.ev::i"";j'r:S;i';f •".'"""-«-" »* ■"-'^-eaWe flowers incL, r/h '^'"'<-™J"y'nS the sight „f countless t, „ "'"' ?■"■ '"'' ""^y ''"^"'"S^ »f ll-e bu.nblebe; the 'on' re ro,r«L"^Hera;^^KitX^^ lld.tt^Z "'. ""'"^ *'"' '™'''^ ''•'"" Independence Bay . ser r„n:c°tu:^s"r" '" ""r™*'™' "■ p"" "^^ ™-- «' Anniversarvlodl . t> T T"."" '" '■™-^'^ ">« '™'-'' '™"> -and, in th J it f Til* ^ '™ 'Ir"':". ''"'^■' "'"^^ •^"^™- ludependence Bav beinr„n , !,' >''«'g'^-J<>"i'ney toward was a member iUslt?,- ^''P""""" """'""g" the writer this volume ShonldTi7"Tn '" "•"•"* "' ^^""t '^S*" '" It was on the 6th of Mnrnh ico^ i • ,: . * nmist of threatening ":'• , 'the "f 1 """"■'■ '^ '" *'"" "Oreat luiand Ice Trip." l";,^ , Cr:^Tr;r; ::" *'" posed of eifrhf n.^^ n^^ 1 • ^ -^ P'"t> Has com- inents of the North ( n i. ••'""^"-" ^'J^^""^^ the fierce ele- Lientenant P^^ and s ;;,r:y'"" '''- f ^"^ •''•'''^'' -'-'>^ the village, ha ^l^ ^ w"!^''^?"'^^"'!''^ ''^ ^'- ^^^'--'^ <>f ige, had gone with four skMlgedoads to the moral lie and 444 THE SEARCH FOB THE NORTH POLE: ha^l re urued to Anniversary Lodge in the evening. A the M ourge, that he almost gnawed off his legs. March llth the second day at the cach^, was calm and < h^ai-. A I tlie eaHy hour of 4 :30 a. m. Stokes, Swain and the five Eskimos returned OR, LI I . IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 447 to the Lodfto. During tlie day tlio remainder of the men pre- l)ared tlie pemmieau for transportation by sewing it in bags, eacli of wliicii contained twelve or lifteen eiglit-pound cans! This being done, sledge loads were assigned and everything put in readiness for the journey on the morrow. TWO MEN DISABLED. The northward marcli, as resumed on the 12th, was very laborious; still our heroes trudged on through the °F. After going three miles the dogs ab- solutely refused to pull and it was necessarv to turn in En- trikin and lialdwin, with their double sleeping bag, took up part of the light protean tent, while the alccdiol cooker and Mr I eary appropriated the remainder. T]w doctor in a single bag, and (Mark and Davidson, in a second double bag, occupied th^e' litth. silk tent. The .U.ext n.ornin, , .as awakened by a sudden incva^ uj\au: """' ^^■''•■'' ""'''' ^''^"^^' ^'t*^ «"^''' violeuc H ';;';;';; 7'^ '^'^'" ^'";" -- 1---^ -»"-t n, flark, I t„rno,1 ,„v .1,.« k .,, , ♦...iisors ovo.. to I.avi,l«,n, Baldwin preHont'eil hi,„ w , ' ^nrJed himself up on the foot of the bi- bag. This h.ft •, sn.-.H space betw,.nH.epoleandthetento,;nin:inwM^ .•nd I could staiHl. This space was c^i M j: u XI (II UK SO \\( sic llio illK for fori tioi Jll'C by; IS n SIIJ) I'('V( Cl'lll oj ^ *•» •■>< M rt 11 ^ JB '^ h 73 OR. LIFE IN THE QREAT WHITE WORLD. ,4, '\'fur.;'.i,""' '„•'"■""*■"' '"- ""'' """■• '"'■ ••■"■•"■"■'■ "f '"«■ l-JH- •" " ,""""'"'« "!'■ »'""'l.vi"K "...■K,.|v,.s l,.v .:„. ,,„1,, „„w u,„| >"■"/■".• ."K up o„ tl„. s„mv.,IHfl f,„. „ ,-,.„. „.i„l< ' „f .;i,.„p, r ; '; ','/■"' '""■ ''"" ■""• "« "'"I ""PPi"*.' "f li- nt, t .. ,l,.„f,„„„« ,,„„. „, H„. wi„,l, t vili.,1, hiasi,,; of ,|„. 'l"f , tU,. ,„«H„j; a,„l s,,.,.,„„ii,!. „f ,|„. ,„„„. J ,;„,,^'' I" fiiioniiiin ncvM- 1<, bo forKiitlcii. UOGS FROZEN IN THE SNOW subs , Is .III I lit , II. ,11, 1 iviis out IcM.kiii,; „„„„ „ won,. Iliiiriiiii.lc ".",. by II,. l,.«s, s,„„. ,,, t„„ ,„„ ,,„„, „ ,, ' -^™; «■<■.■(' ,1,.|„ 11.1,1 nil we,.,, in ,. ,„,„, pUiiibl,. ,.,„i,|i,i„„, , „ii ^ N.>-,.|;„l liail f|.,.o,l H„.,„»,.,ves aiiil h„„ ,|,;.s„.,„,.l, n ^ | , b .i s ,.,.|mi^^ l,a„ an an.v „f the ha,-n,..s»o.s ttl,i,.|, i„„ ,,,,.„ blown "ft 11.0 (.iim.l.s. Haldwi.,'., a„o,ii„...„to.-, ba,.„K..,i|,| , , bor ;n.«.'ai .. «lii,.|., as „io ,.o.,iiU .,f hi., i,.,o...,io. a'.,., t^^. f, I, ,,, f,„,,. hour., ,1,0 av,.|.a«,.«-i.i,l v,.|,„i,y l.n.I I „ „vor •'» I ai..-., n-.,l. a .....im.,..., „f „vo|. -,i()" |.',i|„, \vii,.|i ,h,.so ,,«,.,..» i,.-o, .....sill,.,.,.,, i„ ,.,„„„.,M„„ „.i,l. „..,., .|,.va,i„„ „f «,„„,. K.iou.i f.i,., ,l.a, .,■,..,,,,, „.|„,„.,n„„,.„ a „„, ,,,,, ,„. ^,.|,„, .■o .....,l, .,.,,.-,. ,rvi.,„ ,„ animal lifo ,lian ,l.o »a.,.,. „;„i„o,.a. .-.-a,s,.,, lovol, „ IS boliov,.,! ,l,al ,lio .iinlv'.i.o.., ,vil ,|,n, I..S sloMi, boa, ,l„. ,.,.,.,,,,1 a„ III,. n„,.s, s,.v,..v ,.v,..- oxp,..-i ,.,] b.v an.v .\.',(.,' pai',y." Tl.,. n.a...,,..- a.i,l |.„ni.o,.,ion in wl.i.l. JI... Ral,l,vii.'» i.aii.o .s inon,.,m,.,l, i„ this qn„la,i„i, as well as ,.ls,.«-l.o..,., bv bis ■■"'I"''''"' 'I"alili,.„i„ns •i,l,.|.,ally b.i, no.io ,l.o loss f„.;il,Iv ■•'■v,.als ,1.,. ,|,.p,|, „f bis ol.a.a,„..., I, was ,v,.|l.k..„wn 'v.' .■.•.ii..,.,.lal,i,Tl,.s,l.a,„n,.of, hiof .,-,.n„.n,s,l,a,l,.,l Mi- lialuw.u to join tUe o.xpe,li,iou was tbo oppo,-t..iiitv for ti-vin- 4(0 THE SEARCH TOR THE NORTH POLE; •'"' "" ^"'■y "' *'"- i»«tnm,ontK ,„„lo.. I,i„ oavo. W,.|| ,|i, ; "i^ ;•';;;;:: ■ ;■"••■ »'-'•'■ <••■ «„i,.„ ;,;,;' ', of „ „..„hV """""• '"'" """ ■'"•'■ """""'« ""• »-"l BURNED THE SKIN FROM THE FINOEHS nt ■,,', ■''"'•■"'';■''' '"'■"■"'"'J'- """■"««■ ""•! -kill, Ins :;, " ;" :;■,•: "'"'«" '" >"« visits t., ti,.. .,i,s,.„a,on- ini'"™,,!,;:;;,';." ""• """"•'' -' '"- "'" •■■■'• -■^»" •" « -"- w,..,M'!!,."i?.,T"''*'"' i" ''■' '■""•»' '■'■"""■'«' "■<-" »«"• fair « l..it ha.l be..,., an.l s,.b..ii(t..,I a proble... foi- s„l,.ti„„. Davi.L son s ..o„.ht,„„ ad..,iM..,l .,f „„ ,.„„i,.., a,„l i, was .l,.,.i.lo,l to «'n.l l.i,„ back ... .-aiv „f tli,. biK.|,..ait,.,l ,l„.-t,„.. v,„k al^ 1.0..KN not aff,.<-t..,I to th.. e.xt...,t ,l,at l.avi.ls,,,, was, wo„l,l have „.1,I„ ^„,.atl.v aKai,.st liia, if he hazar.le.1 the tri., The .•l.a .,....» wore that on expos.,,., his f,.,.t woal.l b,.,o,„e wo,.s,., ":,,'."'" '"•'*■'' »" '•''''"'■'''1 i" ■>"">•"■'• "»-i eq,il|„„e„t», it :;""'•'"' ""I'o«s,ble to f,„-„is ,„ with ,.s,.o,.t o,.„le,lo,. later. .SI o„hl h,. blave the bl„-ni„o: ,,,|,, „f ,|,e A,-,ti,. „r shoal.l he return to .•,„„,,a,-„tive .■o,i,f,„.f? Mis ,l,.,.isi„„ ,.vii„,.„ a .h.t,.,-- ""nat,o„ well worth the „an„.. \Vh,.„ ask,.,I what he was fto.ns to ,h,, he ,.,.,,|ie,i: «,„,, , ,,,„.,„ , „,,„„ „,, ,^__ „ M..r<. „„l,.,.,l we n,ay learn a lesson w.irth r<.,„<.,„berin.-. (irit ot thrs t.vpe will solve many a eonfr.nitiuf; pi-„bl,.,„. T he next .lay saw the pait.v, now ....usistii.!; „f FOUR MEN ONLY. beaded toward the goal of their ambition. A fresh southeast- OR, LIFE IN THE CHEAT WHITE WORLD m Priy wind was l.l.)win„' ,„„I ih,. ll„.riim,nol,.|. i-,.|ii»i,.,.,.,l -ny I"'' ■J''"''': ""''|»iM .MHl l.;nl.-iki„ su,w,.,l,,l „,i„,i,„wy in , ' ''"*l"'-"' ■ K"'!, I,.„n, ,!,■,.„■ l«o s!,.,|,„.„, „ i„,,rer ;:;;:: "■.";"";■•• »■"""<-■ "<-.« .i-w,, i,, ,„„, „;, •, izz "itci (•iiiM}; si'vciiil milcn. ' tl,,.',*,',! ""■ '""r'y """■ »-' II"' «l'irit« of 11,,. n„.n .•,«,. with "■. •.! M„.,„ t„ ,,„,,„„, aft..,- n„wg |„„ ||„.,.,. ,„||„„. Tl„. 27th 1;'";; ';';.,"'■'' ',";',"'" """ '"'■'■'•" ■'■'"■ • «•'•"""■'■ '-• ,7' ' "^■•^'* ''•;;■"' ""■ i""«i"'• "'"'""« •'"•'■ »""ik" =.l.."^'->.., thn» ral^e.^ r: "'■";"""■ '" '"'■ '*» "I""'". ■i", ""'■*■" '" "'^' •""■'''"■^'"" '"^'^ <•' '"™'""K 1"'"1<- THE SNOWY CURTAIN ROSE H,te"sw!.M' *)"■ '■"';"'"" ""'""'" "f ""' """'"f White VVorhl." o t«l 1,0 Khstonmg snrfaoo, i.-..ntly .■o,.,.,lins<.n tl„> l..ft, ..ra,!. C,'':i,?."j 't,"'«"' ";«"'•- - i*-"- ■'" th.. .ii;;;.nVe "v -a,i..^ auuj, iiiuy are lusl m kissing tlie sappliire'sky. 452 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 1 ut we Who are sitting beside Vesta's cheerful glow must not lose ourselves in Elysian reverie. The unrelenting cold urged Its cruel claims, and discouragements crowded up^n ^ unfortuna e heroes. However, it needed cmly a milk punch to , revive their drooping spirit, and after the dogs had been fed they turned in to dream of home and loved ones far away. On the morning of the 28th Clark set about overhauling the bar- ness, while Baldwin and Entrikin repaired their sledges. This they did with the thermometer registering —51° Fahr and themselves exposed to a stiff breeze that drove the snow in anything but a pleasant manner. For the "Long Serpent" the episode proved to be a blessing incognito. For after beino- repaired she was a better sledge than ever, but Entrikin froze his feet in the operation, and this was the beginning of the serious trouble that followed him throughout the remainder of the trip. Everything being in readiness, the northward march was resumed, although.it was after p. m. In this short journey that followed, a singular incident occurred, savs Lieutenant Peary: "During this march the wind and temperature, actiu- upon the moisture of Baldwin's breath, froze his koo-le-tah (reindeer skin coat) so rigid that he could neither walk nor turn his head, and was obliged to come in Indians (.f the Northwest, who, one nij-ht when not fully awake, mistook his frozen nose for an ax-hanwer laminated tract with rock-rubbish sandwiched between its beds. nJ'^^u ^^^^''''^■'«y^r« are not all uniform in their distribution, utten they have much regularity and persistence; often thev thin out and disappear within a short distance; more often still they persist for a few rods and then are replaced by ad- joinins layers above or below which come in as these thin out. 1 nus a belt of layers has much persistence, while the con- stituent layers are freely entering and vanishing. Lenses of h!;^r\T'r"'''^ 'PP'''^' •'^"^'^"^^ ^^'^ ^^y^"^'' «°d a doubling bac k of the layers upon themselves, giving a lenticular section, is not uncommon. ' nJ-^t^ l"""^'"!'' •'"'; sometimes very symmetric, straight and parallel, but often they are wavy and undulatory. iS manv instances hey are greatly curved and sometimes contorted ii an intricate fashion. "Tho debris-belts are essentially parallel to the base of rarot beyond ' ""'^'""^ ^'^^^ ^"^^'^ "^ *« ''' ^-* -^' "In meeting obstacles in front, the basal beds have the habit m^r^Ielf "'""'' '?^"^"^ ""^^ '^^^^"^ -'*'' t^->- ^erm^ moraines are sometimes thus made, resting on the edoes of the ice-layers which formed them curved r'^'T "^''•''''' '^'" ^""^^''^ ^'^ sometimes simplv lone he T' '°',""'' ''" Pron^inonce; but if the frontal slope be steep, much crumpling of the laminae often takes jnace. t>". tlicv ai<. fractuiwl „n(i faulted, an.l alons the fault-line 460 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ^:nat^z :;::r "^ ^"^ "'■^--'^ "-'"^o™ to that itself. Keferri^g t h "' ^ Ttr """y '" '■"'" -^"""•<'" ■"""Mains, l,e J,.^ '\T ""Sutarity of the border -;;;uhe,..t.„„/„:"l--rZl^^ another season with only ■, Zln ? «" "'""'■"S in the fle),l in the Bummer of 1895;™.' sed to C' "'/" """"" '" "«'""' left „p„„ the iee-eao in h! ^ r """■■" ^° """ '"^ '••"•"•■x fip. His sweoessive To,™et^ . '" "'" ''"""''"" "' "«■ "'>" lo«s oflife or health „■'•,,""''''''■' "'*'""" "<•"''<'■" "■• ..nstrate that^r a * 'e .n::;'^;'' "" '"""^^' ^""'^'y <"•'»• I'leqnate enuinmeot If I ^l accomplished with the bueJ With the Cro," T/ "' '"'""'' """' »">^»eMy im- «.en are to be ha or le ' H ff ■""■■'''""■'• And when s„cl, fairly enconrald bv nf. ^ "'l ''^''''"^' «^'' "'.".V "ot to be and equipn e™ 'l^^rel V r, "" """""""^'^ "' """'- ^-'"^'''"^ BO danger:,:: «:zT::zTj^7''' "? """ "•-'' '^ "-* 3 Of ti^re..„ «tenzr?::;:c^,ti:u;:t^ -^z ../crtvxt'ri: :?t ;rr:e™;;;%'''- "-" "•'"'■•" •several islands find repre^entntirn ZZ L ti "''.ndr "; a hundred glaciers aas„n.e definite .ocaHoLTwh^^rfor"::;!; OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 461 hardly a tenth „f that n.unbe,- appealed. A»ti„p'» map of Melville lUy ,„„«( al«, be u„te,l iu this .-..uneetieil. Ihe meteorological records I'rofessor Salisbury prououuces to be "probably th,. most accurate and elabor„,;^l.ldch Ive ever been secured in so high a latitude," and the two meteorites . rntm:'inC:r* "' ''"■"^ ''"■" ""'^-^ «""" ""■""- -" ^'^ rhamheHT''""""' ,;"■' """*""■'•'' "'''''"iKiti"ns "f Professor bury, of the University of Chicago, and of Professor Libbey, of tH T '■ r""' "" "" «^<=<'«"nKl.v I'igh plane. n.ioT,t Ten", r""'!"! """ '"™^"g»""»*' "f »<'ch ripe minds Flit. ' ","-"'''""«' '"rther, cannot even be surmised. Elsewhere we have referred to the importan.e of the study of the magnet.,, forces of the earth, and Dr. Chamberlin's obser- vation in this connection is full of interest: "Not a few geologists have looked with some measure of hope to terrestrial nuignetism for a valtiable eontributiou to he (lark problems of the earth's interior. We have long felt that there should be dis.-overable some medium which could be operated upon by some inventible device in such a way as to serve as a stethoscope, so to speak, to declare the coudiVions and the changes in the heart of the earth "Megnetisni is ,me of the suggested media, and it mav reveal •oiidi lons of the interior m.w quite hidden from us." .)uotin.. heetdnir' Z""'"- "f .M'"'«'^'l-'eferring to the sensitized sheet of the self-registermg magnetograph-he ad.ls: "On that papor, the nevei-resting lu.art.of the earth is now tracing u telegraphic syniboLs, whi,.h will one day be interpreted, a"e" j>n of Its pulsations and its flutlLrings, as well as of that sm.w but m,gl,ty ,v„rt,„,, (f|„. ,„..,„,,^ ^,^^^ « t t «. inu., not suppose that the inner history of our planet nded ( ertainly, criticism of th<. labors of su.h men is not ar "manV't';; T" '"'"1 "" '" "''""'' ^""■" "^ l"'™^i"- are manj, the harpings of the stay-at-home critic become re- 462 the: search for the north POLE; p.«ble. lu tUe Plain, practical lon.„„go of Enginee,. „„,,"'^'"' ":"'''7' »"" Kl'"""''. ""'1 w„«ld.be criticH ot Arctic toil nn.l Nulfcrnift hall a.„l know that the men whom ymi t,a I or whose memories von hi,.„. r . ^ tiaduce line Me ,.,. I VI •'""/'''"" f"i-<'y<^r, perhaps for a penny a vet ;;,:,"'.""'*'• '■'">■ '""" >■""■' '"™ who were an.1 are Ll-e of i • ■'. "' ""■■■•>■•'""« "■' •'"■■tl' »av,. honor for the best ,,r,wT"' "" ""T"' •" ■'"""''■'<'■ M-' »"" "W H.ei De«t an.i ,1, at best ,» so far ahea.l of th,. ,-ou,-eptio« of their :'■"",'!' ■(""«-« '""t it i- a nation's sha ihat it permi "> >;•», l.v,n« an.l ,lea,l, to be .Iragged thr„,„,h tl e sH , e o i u,t of s '";,"'■""" '"'■ """ «"'"i''"'"™ ""lie prurient nu rAti, ;;';;'""*'■"'' >" "-« '^^"■■- "»■' ■^"^ <^«™'"- "f .rinlinl '" T" "" ''■'"" "•"■" *"« "■""•"W of some tall PMitiuK-honse south of 50° north latitnile " Qnote,rth'e,'"''"" """"' ^""" ""^^ '"""«'' P"!-"™''"- previonsly quoteil, there appears a concise statement of THE AUTHOR'S PLANS FOR THE FUTURE, Which, being in keeping, with the obje,.t for which this volnm,- has been .ssned, we may no, inappropriately repeat in Z weron'hi:'!'''^"''v''''''''"P"^''''''''"'»t«'' ••«''''"«<"«*«"« est f ( h,cag„ ,s „u,te nniqne in Arctic relations. Itself an ' ; ta nsN'::"" ■'; " "<""'-♦"""'- "»<- "s nan,e fron, th aptains Naper, who were among its earliest settlers, havin. "■ated on the banks of the Dnl'age River as early as 1830 'u'^; :,'"■■'! *'"" "''' ""' "^^ -il-S-nasters on Lake t as born Dr r .""': T *"" "i" '''■-"^'''Pt-" t-'-N «till in nse, was boin Dr C. ( . Adams, ot The New York Snn, the eminen seograph.cal writ,., and the friend an.l patron ,^ Lien en" fta y ,n a 1 h,s Arctic nndertakings; here, too, another j"! alist the lan,ente,l Mr. Scott, of The Chicago Times-Herald he patro,, of the Wellman E..pe.lition, conrted and marr e' f; .'ir granddaughter of an early settler; and last but not lea t here was reared our own Evelyn B. naldwin, whose maternal OB, LIFE IN THE GBEAT WHITE WORLD. 403 faiM'r;'!!;;'' ^^ """, !'''■"•"■""" ''«'"^'« "=- ">-.. t .- . '", • ■'"" """ *"■• ^^■"""'""'x was Hi "^vv 'm ir;,"^' '"'■""; "•''l>''"'atim, in „„. (ar N-,„(h, II,. M . *"■'"'•'■>' ''I-M^lition «as far fr,,,,, l„.|„,, „ f„iiu,,.- i Ir ""'l""l-t,.,II,v l,av,. ,„., will. H„',-,.s» hail t .. ot boon f„P the .•.■ushins "f hi» v,.ss,.| wl,,.,, a( ll„. „„ia » aH.n,. „„ ,,|.s sl,.,Ig..,our„o,v noHhwa,,! f, , S , „ ' , .■xoepti.,,, „„„ ■:utv;;'ei ""'"■'""" """ ""■'■'■'"-"» „„„!'*'■'• '*."'."■-'■'" '""•""I f'">""' «as ,l,.,„.|v owin.> to i„.„l,. imto provisions and ,.,|uipn„.nt. Il,„l ,|„.'r,.|i,.f ^ , a -nl to brin« „is part, , takoi, oxira si, ,1 : "" liclil, ho wonhl have aoooniplisho,! tlio ni.«t brilliant ;-:;rr\x:;:n,::i::x:^;b;:!;;;i;?^,;''7h: oDjo, t « 111 be to (hsoovor tho polo. That is iintrno-althou.rh ..T^bv"" ,"'"'"" """ '" ■■" "'"""" '' '"'"-' '" "- - N ' "oofr,„l v T r *" '■""""•■*•■ *"" """'"Pniont of tho otSo V ;n;;;r' """""' '"■•''"«•'■• ""■' «>•' -"""-"v, of H,„r- I "!"■'' '""" "" I'''"fi'««'"-<'lia>nborlin, «,: ist HeilDrin n.,t„^nr V ; ' "' ''■ "''■'"'" '""I l'r"f"ssor ileilpim, naturalirts and explorers, of Pennsylvania, and of 4«4 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: DtlwvH Who have iiiadc great personal Haerlflce in the distant Nort h, should not be slighted. The press and the public should be sutticiently Anjerican— patriotic and inlelligent enough— to lend to their countrymen all possible encouragement in such research. There are thou.sands who would, if they but under- stood clearly .An-tic conditions and the causes of the so-called failui-es of previous expeditions, <-ontribute freely toward an enterprise that must result in a common benelit. "'Failure heretofore has almost invariably resulted not in the advance but in the retreat of the explorers and navigators. Let this be hold in mind and a suttlciency of ecpiipment and pro- visions lookc«l j|ft<'r and success must follow. The terrible fate of the (Jreely Expedition emphasizes this fact. It will be recalled that, having failed to establish suttl<'ieut caches of provisions on the outward voyage, and relief failing to get to them in time, nineteen of the twenty-tive men perished at Cape • Sabine, the point to which they had retreated after having lirst carried on very successfully scientific investigations in (Irinnell Land and North (Jreenland, Lieutenant Lockwood, then but thirty years of age, and Sergeant Brainard, at that time less dian twenty-six years of age, attaining the farthest north, viz • latitude, 83° 24'. " 'General Greely and Lieutenant Peary have both said that this work mnst be done by young men of good health, of per- sonal enthusiasm and adecpnite intelligence, and of age be- tween the years of twenty-tive and forty. It suggests to the hundreds of colleges and universities scattered throughout the land that here is a chance for strictly original research and a rare chance of adding to museum collections, etc. " 'As suggested, I do not believe in making a "dash" for the pole; it is too meteoric. Furthermore, the work should not be undertaken by ambitious I's but by none-the-less enthusias- tic we's. In the North ^^'orld there's elbow room for all. " 'Preparations for such a trip cannot be safely hurried. Supplies for not less than three years should be carried and the retreat provided for as carefully as the advance by establishing caches at close intervalfi along the march. 10 (liHtnnt licHhoulil ('n(nij;li — lit in Hucli Hit iiuder- ' so-called o'.vard an ^ed not In ivi^atoi's. t and ]U'()- i> ((M'l'ibh' It will be caclK^s of to get to d at Cape vins lirst Orinnell then but time less )rth, viz.: said that li, of per- ' a<>'e be- t.s to the :hoiit the eh and a "for the Diild not ithusias- 1. hurried. and the blishin^ (Sei'ChapteiBXL.uiKl XLII.) fWMP iJP^"",>i.ip III '•■■ •■ .,•• ■/.•,;>;. //4 A Paleocrystic Ice-Floe. (See|.iigP8!>05, 8fi«,ftc.) The Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. J. F. Child, MinuralosiiJt. ("omiiiissiiriiit Ollicor, A, Aniiit.'iKe, AistrouoiiiL'r. F, G. Jackson, A. Sclilossliauer, Loailor. Sailing Master. (See Chapter XL1V.1 s. Y. Windward. PR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 465 " ' Some weeks ago when on a visit to the Northwestern Lniversity, I stated my preference of routes, and continue of he same opinion formed while with Lieutenant Peary in North Greenhind in 1893-4. That^belief is, that the expedition should tai ,''fTnn '"VT '' P"''*^'" *" ^^^' ''^^ headquarters of Cap- he nlr^' . ''''*''° '"^'^ «^ 1^«^^«''" Channel and the northwestern coast of Greenland, at which point aid can be rendered by the Eskimos just south. Further- explorati n no thward would complete the delineation of Northern (JreeL and S?.! ? u" '""'^^ "^ '^'' ^''^'"^"^^'^ Lieutenant Lockwc,<,d tmveHn ^ " T'''^ '' '''' ^^^^'^^' Expedition. Thence voH 7 V"^ '''"' *^" ^^•"■'"l^ "^ ^^'^^ Greenland, the work of completing the survey of Northeastern Greenland o? Giinnell T""f '''f ; ^''"^^ '''' --""^ination of the west <.oast Gen^rarGrX ""' ""' ^'^ ""'' " ^'^^ ''''''''' '' •schiicfdTn'rV^"'^"'^''^'^"^' ^"*"^"- ^"^^ competent men, cent nf ?,i I". "'"'''' ^'^*^^ Lieutenant Peary, as Dr. Vin- tent of Illinois; Messrs. Entrikin and Stokes, of Pennsvlvania • Dr Cook, of New York, and Mr. George II. Clark, of Massachu- setts, have signified their intention of going again, it mav be safe y cone uded that their efforts will be ciwne^l with success Finally, w^e hold with Sir W. E. Parrv, with McClure Scoresby, Dr. Kane, Greely, and others, that tie isolated people of the frozen ^orth, the ever-faithful, intelligent and friendlv Eskimos, deserve more and better treatment at the hands .if the civilized world than they have had. The successful investi- gation of that far-off land will be greatly facilitated bv a hu- mane treatment of its inhabitants.' " In the above expressed preference or choice of routes we are by no means alone, as will be lear„eH ' i I ii 466 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "To reach a hioh latitude a vessel should be placed in New- mau Cay, ou the west coast of Greenland, just south of lati- tude 82° north. This is an advantageous position and would enable a party to place depots of provisions in the autumn for use in the early spring work. This adanced position in a fav- orable year would enable a party to attain a much higher lati- tude^ than was reached by Lieutenant Lockwood and myself; and it would also doubtless determine the northern point of Ureenland." Lieutenant Brainard also believes "from the character of the ice in the I'olar Basin, that clusters of islands Avill be found in the vicinity of the pole." Moreover, and aside from the thought of scientific and geo- graphical investigation, it is not unworthy of consideration that Dr. Xansen and his courageous companions may hit upim the north coast of Greenland or upon the undiscovered polar lands and may require assistance in returning to civilization with their lives and treasures of scientific information. Auxiliary to the main expedition, small supporting parties should be established at such points as would conduce both to scientific investigation and possible assistance to the main party and to each other. For illustration, two or three men, preferably a zo.dogist, a geologist, and a philologist stationed in the vicinity of Etah would be able to employ the time fully in that vicinity besides commanding the assistance of the na- tives of that region. A philologist would find a new field for investigation there, for the language of the Etah Eskimos has never yet been studied scientifically or reduced to writing. Another party with Eskimo supporters should be maintaineAl at or iwiw Cape Sabine, whence the exploration of the West Grinnell Land coast should be accomplished and a large col- lection of scientific data and s])(Miuiens made. Thence north- wai'd to Newman Bay, provision-depots should be made at con- venient points. From Newman Bay the entire energies of the party should be directed northward, with the possible allow- ance for a very small hunting-p.irty to be maintained, should circumstances favor, at Fort Conger, in the vicinity of which OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 467 game is known to be abundant and where beyond a doubt a arge quantity of food for the main party would be secured for use in case of need. Besides, the house and provisions left 'l"-ate expense an,l with entire vU e^f tnrn rM'^ '""'""■■ '"'""'y' "''"-f Engineer Mel- l.!tl V V"'*f ^*''"'" "'*'"'-'•' ""'"'«* '""!-' ""'1 l'<'i'«ic Arctic service Ims already been noted, has this t„ sav : harbtni """""T """' '"•^■•"^ ^'■'«'*-'' "^'^ '»'■ '"« "liter, harbor, t ,s enchanting enough to te,n,,t anv one to winter here and drink in its Arctic glories, from the great roci'td ng away m the fog fron, the black to a ha., purple, to the daz.l,ng purity of the crystal glacier. Ther^ 'is n'tl'nng so llonnir !T'' "'"' ' ™'""" "^'P '"""■•'Ung why our mil- less sights. The voyage can be made in two months, July and August, with entire safety to tlie frailest of their steam yachts. ' And that two or three enthusiastic young scientists sta- tioned at that place would be able to command the assistance of the faithful and affectionate natives of that region appears from the following letter from i>r. Vincent, the phvsician and TZZ "^^^l*^"*^"''^"^ P^«ry's North Greenland Expedition of 1893-4. It is j.iven to show what may be accomplished with entire safety by a very small number of men properlv disci- plined and assisted by the ingenious natives, iu a region which Ignorance and inexperience has invested with manv ima-inarv perils: "^ i«t.'"«*iy "My Dear Baldwin. ' ""'Uag", I"., Feb. 3, 189(i. VrZlrvZZ7\ '"•'■ "".•■"■'•'""■^ "f '"•^- *"P "it" Entrikin over < ryst,,| Pa ace Glacier gives me an infinite amount of pleasure- n plea.,u,.e becau.,e you have reserved a spa.-e iu vour boo ,1; c Is t,::::r''i ':■ '""= ' " ""'•■'™'-'' '«■'•-- <> - ^i ; lecalls the safe deliverance froiu m 1110-+ ^-v-t .t i ,.» -- i^i^ji.i ,s jjiOoi tijiLg juurney. 468 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: "Oi, May 2d, 189J, E„„.iid„ a„,l ,„ysolf started fro,,, Vnni vcpsary Lodge with iteus.,elaer llarbo., D.^KleT „ Z .ead„„arte,.s, as oa. objective „oi„t. Vv'e ha., twolbj'u ^ ll„ .s,,e„(,ft,. .„„t,.„,„eut» left H,e.v b.v Ka„e „„o„ hi ret.vat ;|.|. , second to eajoy a „o,ar bear hunt. EutrikirLd Oul' . acty f„,. ,„e, w.th an equal nu„,ber of dogs. At Ig-loo' lo .IttZL"; "•"'■■''. J™;-" •^•'- M.v-'-»k> "oeSf the oldest ami n,ost influent,al nien in the ti'ibe "Rea,l,i„g N,„.uie, which is distant aboat tweuty-five miles f ■on, A„n,versa,.y Lodge, we „„. into a heavv snow-sto ■ , u,l eatie, sho„l,I be nw.-e favoi-able. N„,.|iie at this ti„,e of t"e™i:anta ""'■'",'■ '''"" '"''"'-''' '<»■ ™™™ — "" «nd M.1 0,,?f ' ' ''"''"' ""' "■'»*<•• '"'-tter up i„ lugle. storm [tw^Vr*^ r;! "'■^^"•"^"■«">P fro-gh a bliuding snow- ve he,v !,;„ 7 '"•' '•"•'■ '^r'-» '" *'"^^^ ^l-'-'M quartet and "t utie spent tlio oiismiio- night ",orn1;l':;""m!1"""'"' '""■""" '""^^ "*"""' '^'^w^'-iwake next ,,,,,ru,ug 1 e younger natives stated tl,at he had gone will,- «u ™us,ng tl,e,„, and they see,ned to be as „„„.l,'pl„e ed by h,s abseueo as were Ent.ikin an,l „,yself. However to v*^r he m,ddle of the afternoon he ,-et„,.ne.I. It see, ,, but that he.was willing to lead if we would follow. Ac cordmgly we hastily ,,acked the sledges for tl,<. .iou,.uev. Kes-shu was one of the most iutelligent natives 'in the OR. LIFE IN THE GHEAT WHITE WORLD. «, over ev„v i,-„-t „f ,^. , '"' ""'' "*' " ''"■^' 1""' tiai.i„«l p,-. fr; 't i;^"'^' •^"" '"; '*« »■"««' »'"-f'>''e made excellent iov found tlinf fj.^ • 1 , *'"'^''t uiiiKuin, and to our great Z" ■ ! ""' '"'*■' ""<' "■<■ were soon under n'av ao-nl,, "dKing throuKh the deep snow. Approaelnns thef te " rf t.e saner, a narr„w and exceedingly steep ravine was d terecl.stwVrf <.■;'' """ ^'"'^'"^ '"' <•»""•'<'»» "S™. «l'«'l- oneiid:^^:^xi:;r,s::'t;;rz^-«--:-- '' '"•'•"■•'■""<■'", and t,. make y-ist, „n«' b=i*— .•n-b,.o,„..,.s of ^'«a}„ been vuiy f«na uf Kntrikiii, b„t at tLo end 472 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; of our journey I was ready to proclaim Uim a prince of good fellows. "I trust I have written subject matter that may prove use- ful; and believe me, I hope your efforts may meet with the success they certainly deserve, "Faithfully yours, "Edward Vincent." The following? account by the late Eivind Astrup of his memorable and successful reconuoissance of Melville Bay and its coast line, two years ago this month and next (April and May, 189()),- appears in the "Fortuij^htly Keview" for April; is of a much more familiar and popular character than that of the Lame journey in the "Koyal Geographical Journal" some mouths since, and gains interest from Astrup's death in De- cember in the mountains of his native Norway. The start \Aas made from Mr. Peary's headquarters at Bowdoin Bay, two hundred fifty miles north of Cape York. COMRADE ASTRUP'S ACCOUNT OF HIS TRIP TO MELVILLE BAY. At the commencement of April I began the necessary prep- arations, wliich, for more reasons than one, were both few and simple. As regards meat, I had to rely solely on my luck as a hunter, and it was therefore necessary for me to secure a good native companion and fellow sportsman, which I found in my friend Kolotengva. Koloteiigva is a young Eskimo of about five and twenty years of age, low of stature but well knit, with sinews of steel, and quite incredible muscular strength. Ills eyes are small, but he sees with them objects far beyond the vision of ordinary mortals. His long, black hair is by nature slightly curled, and forms a rather handsome frame around a daring and regular face. As a hunter he has no equal— he reminds me in many respects of Fenimore (\)oi)er's Indian chiefs. Nobfxly in the whole tribe could be ia'ouder than Kolotengva, nobody more free and independent, nobody stnnclier in friendship or nobler in thought, nobody cooler in ihe hour of danger, or more astute during the hunt— OR, LIFE m THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 4,3 .0 nss , ht ",""'"""'""■. " •l„.ra,„„„.t,.,-, a cl.n,,,,,,,,,.,,.,-, a ■ nan r ;"■' ';.'""' ^I""'''-I-. '-I'"'-!.,, „,.i..MtiH,. (abl • n ; ;,,, f """",'""' "™ '■'"'■"• "">• '■^"•<,i,lK,.s, a K„,all ." » a n,.:r '■'"•t""'' "■"" "■"' ""■ "» ""■'■•• "•"« "'••"l"■■• ax, an, a few extra paim „f soekH and leRsin^s/ Of ,1,„ s I « ™e ;." r'T:""-' '"■ ■"""■'■■"« -«'" whuxt „«;:.« naave , ,M '^" ':*™«^" "■"' "«.v«elf j„»t befere mu- start, .m na( e m,„k.|, with i-nnners .sl„„l with |H,lisl,e,l bene. start ni'.t "m' '*; "' '^^'" ''"' ""■J"""!.' was readv fer tbe "et Iff i, the f «"• •'"•oatenia.-Iv "nnhV (.ero Fab.), we :1 , ? ' ""* '" ""• «""' '"" f"" !'""« '."avy and lea.len, an. fa.tberin, near ,,ur winter q„a,te,-»,a keen, euttiug, nerth- on the sledge whilst one ran behind, holding to the stand-,,,. « ,th ha,d f,.«en snow, whilst the weather ,-leared. The snn I^s no r,se igl, i„ the sky so early in the spring in these la i 1 on,pla,nt. An.l a long day we needed, for the distance the.ea,;,.st Kskin.o eolony was a stiff one, i. e., elose upln "ipnty m.les, and people we „inst road, thafdav, as our •Mippcr depended „pon native hospitality It was jnst midnight, with a fain't twiligh,, when we ;ael,ed (he sontheast .-ape of Ilerbe.-t Isla,r,l, where , nr on t" ;"?« '''r '"'" "•''^ •■""^■" <"«-"."'■", .-."J the colony M,r t ; T ''""'""'^' "' «'"^" ""Iv two were oocpiei ,! V ';:""" ""^ "' *"" '"""t famous bear hunters of the h, „H„? .f"': """ """ '"'> '■'■"•™«1 «■""' «"-"-"l weeks' I.«n!,ng south, at Oape York. The bears had treated him 171 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; badl.v tills time, two of his best tiaiiu'd doos having boon killed, and ho hiiihsclf nearly sharinj; the same la(«>, to which his clawed-ui) »i'>n, covered wltli fui raj^x, bore witness. Sur- gery is only but little uuderstood by these people; on the other hand, nature eonies to their aid very powerfully, healing quickly broken bones and wounds which in other clinuites would re(|nire W(Md