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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, pisnches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmfo d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de I'angle supirieur gauche, de gaucha d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 If ■'Ji- \ VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. UNDERTAKEN, BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FORMAKINO Difcoveries in the Northern Hemi(phere. Performed under the DireOion of Captains COOK, CLERKE, and GORE, In His Majefty's Ships the Rt/tlution and Difcovtrj ; in the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 17791 and 1780. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F.R.S. Publiflied by Order of the Lords Comtniffioners of the Admiralty. THE SECOND EDITION. ^V»'>'»r'fl^ VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED BY H. HUGHS, FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, IN THE STRAND; AND T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND. M.DCC.LXXXV. \t^ CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Introduction. Page i Infcription to the Memory of Captain James Cook. Ixxxvii Li/loftbe Plates. — • xci BOOK I. TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL OUK BEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND. CHAP. I. T/'ARIOUS Preparations for the Voyage. — Omai's Bebavi- " our on embarking. — Obfervations for determining the Longitude of Sbeernefsy and the North Foreland. — Pajfage of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth. — Employments there. — Complements of the Crews ofbothfljips, and Names of the Officers. — Obfervations to fix the Longitude of Ply- mouth,— Departure of the Refolution. Page i Vol. I. CHAP. s if CONTENTS. CHAP. II. Pcj,tg£ of the Refolution to Tentriffe.^ Reception there. — Defcription of Santa Cruz, Road. — Refrefhments to be met with. — Obfervations for fixing the Longitude of Tene- riffe. — Some Account of the I/land. — Botanical Obferva- tions. — Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna. — Agriculture. — Air and Climate. — Commerce. — Inhabitants, 14 CHAP. III. Departure from Teneriffe. — Danger of the Ship near Bona- vijla. — IJle of Mayo. — Port Praya. — Precautions againfi the Rain and fultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator. — Pofition of the Coajl of Brazil. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. — Tranfa&ions there. — Jun&ion of the Difcovery. — Mr. Anderfon's Journey up the Country. — Afironomical Obfervations. — Nautical Remarks on the Paf- fage from England to the Cape^ with regard to the Cur- rents and the Variation. 29 CHAP. IV. 'tfje two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. — Two IJlandSy named Prince Edward's^ feen, and their Appearance de- fcribed. — Kerguelen's Land vifited. — Arrival in Chrifimas Harbour. — Occurrences there. — Defcription of it. 51 CHAP. V. Departure from Chrifimas Harbour. — Range along the CoaJIj to diJcQver its Pofition and Extent. — Several Promontories and CONTENTS. and Bayst cf^d a Peninfula^t defended and named. —-Ban- ger from Shoals.— Another Harbour and a Sound.— Mr. Anderjon's Obfervations on the natural Produ&ions^ Ani- mals^ Soil, &c. of Kerguelen's Land. 70 c H A P. vr. » Paffage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemeri's Land.^Arrival in Adventure Bay. — Incidents there. '-Interviews with the Natives.— Their Perfons and Drefs defcribed.— Account of their Behaviour. — Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation. — Mr. Anderfon's Obfervations on the natural Produiiions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language. ^i C H A P. VII. The Paffage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. —Employments in ^een Charlotte's Sound.— Tranfatlions with the Natives there. — Intelligence about the Mafjacre of the Adventure's Boat's Crew. — Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that O ccafion. — Of the t%m young Men who embark to attend Omai. — Various Re- marks on the Inhabitants,— AJlronojnical and Nautical Ob- fervations. jj3 CHAP. VIII. Mr. Anderfon's Femarks on the Country near ^een Char- lotte's Sound. — The Soil. — Climate. — Weather. IVinds. Trees.— Plants.— Birds.— Fijh.— Other Animals.— Of the Inhabitants.— Defcription of their Perfons.— Their Drefs.— Ornaments. — Habitations. — Boats. — Food and Cookery. Arts.— Weapons.— Cruelty to Prifoners. ^Various Cufioms. •^Specimen of their Language. 14^ A a BOOK '^ CONTENTS. BOOK II. FRO!* LEAVING NEW ZEALAND, TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTA- HKITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. CHAP. I. Profecution of the Voyage. — Behaviour of the two Ne^v Zea- landers on board. — Unfavourable winds. — An I/land called Mangeea difcovered. — the Coajl of it examined. — Iranfac- tions with the Natives. — An Account of their Perfonsy Drefs, and Canoe. — Defcription of the I/land. — A Specimen of the Language. — Difpojition of the Inhabitants, 167 C H A P. II. The Difcovery of an JJland called Wateeoo.'-'Its Coajls exa- mined. — Fi^ts from the Natives on board the Ships. — MeJ'. Gore, Burney, and Anderfon, with Omaiy fent on Shore. — Mr. Anderfon''s Narrative of their Reception.— Omat's Ex- pedient to prevent their being detained. — His meeting tvitb fome of his Countrymen, and their diflrefsful Voyage.— Far- ther Account of JVateeoOi and of its Inhabitants. 180 \i\ CHAP. III. Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited. — Account of that IJland, at d of its Produce. — Hervefs IJland, or Terougge mou Attooa, found to be inhabited. — TranfaBions with the Na- tives. —Their Perfons, Drefs, Language, Canoes. —Fruit- 3 i^fs CONTENTS. lefs Attempt to land there, — Reufons for bearing away for the Friendly IJlands. — Palmer/Ion's I/land touched at. '^'De^ fcription of the two Places where the Boats landed. — Re^ frejbments obtained there. — Conjedlures on the Formation offuch low IJlands.— Arrival at the Friendly IJlands. 205 CHAP. IV. Inter courfe with the Natives of Komango, and other IJlands. — Arrival at Annamooka. — tranfa&ions there. — Feenouy a principal Chiefs from Tonga tab.o, comes on a Fijit. — The Manner of his Reception in the IJiand, and on board. — /;;- fiances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Natives.— Some Ac- count of Annamooka. — The PaJfage from it to Hapaee. 225 CHAP. V. Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly Reception there. — Prefents and Solemnities on the Occafion. — Single Com- bats with Clubs. — WreJlUng and Boxing Matches. — Female Combatants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed by Men. — Fireworks exhibited.— The Night-entertainments of Singing and Dancing particularly defer ibed. 242 CHAP. VI. Defcription of Lefooga.—Its cultivated State.— Its Extent TranfaBions there.— A Female OculiJi.— Singular Expedi- ents for Jhaving off the Hair.— The Ships change their Sta- tion.— A remarkable Mount and Stone. — Defcription of Hoolaiva. — Account ofPoidaho^ King of the Friendly IJlands. —RefpeFtJul Manner in 'cchicb he is treated by bis People.— Departure CONTENTS. Departure from the Hapaee {(lands. -—Some Account of Ko- too. — Return of the Ships to Annamooka. — Poulabo ami Feenou meet. — Arrival at Ton^ataboo. 156 CHAP. VII. Friendly Reception at Tongataboo. — Manner of dijiributing a baked Hoq and Kava to Poulabd's Attendants. — T'he Obfer- vatoryy &c. eredled. — the Filiate where the Chiefs refide,. and the adjoining Country, defcribed. — Interviews with Mareewageey and Toobouy and the King's Son. — A grand Haivaf or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by Mareezvagee. — Exhibition of Fireworks. — Marnier of Wrefi- ling and Boxing. — Difiribution of the Cattle. — 'thefts com- mitted by the Natives. — Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, con- fined on that Account. — Poulaho's Prefent, and Haiva. 278 w CHAP. viir. Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. — A fijbing Party. — A Vifit to Poulabo. — A Fiatooka defcribed. — Ob- fervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulabd's Houfe. — His Mourning Ceremony. — Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor. — Account of Onevy, a little IJland. — One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel. — Mefprs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother. — their Entertainment. — Another Mourning Ceremony. — Manner of paffmg the Night. — Remarks on the Country they paffed through. — Preparations made for failing. — An Eclipfe of the Sun, imperfe&ly obferved. — Mr. Anderfon^s Account of the IJland, and its Produ^iions. 309 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. IX. A grand Solemnity i called Natche, in Honour of the Kinfs Sont performed. — 7'Ae Procejions and other Ceremonies^ during the Jirfl Day, defer ibed. — The Manner of paffmg the Night at the King's Houfe. — Continuation of the Solemnity , the next Day. — Conje&ures about the Nature of it. — Depar- ture from Tbngataboo, and Arrival at Eooa.— Account of that IJlandy and Tranfadtions there. 336 :!! CHAP. X. Advantages derived from vifiting the Friendly IJlands. — Befl Articles for Traffic. — Ppfrejhmcnts that may be procured. — The Number of the I/lands, and their Names. — KeppePs and Bofcawen's IJlands belong to them. — Account of Favaoo — of Hamoa — of Feejee. — Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes. — Difficulty of procuring exadl Information. — Per- fons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. — Their Colour. — Dif- eafes. — Their general Char a^ier. — Manner of wearing their Hair — of puncturing their Bodies. — Their Clothing and Or- naments. — Perfonal Cleanlinefs. 364 CHAP. XI. Employments of the Women at the Friendly IJlands. — Of the Men. — Agriculture. — ConJlruSlion of their Houfes. — Their ivorking Tools. — Cordage, andjijiymg Implements. — Mufical Injlruments. — Weapons. — Food, and Cookery. — Amufe- niotts. — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. — Their Divinities. — Notions about the Soul, and a future State. h CONTENTS. Siaie. — 'T'ibeir Places of }For/hip. — Government, — Manner of paying Obeifance to the King, — Account of the Royal Fa- mily. — Remarks on their Language^ and a Specimen of it. — Nautical and other Obfervations. 390 Mil I It iVti INTRO- 1 • ■ i I :■ ,,,<. :i:„.. :f!' ( . t INTRODUCTION. TH E fpirit of difcovery, which had long animated the European nations, having, after its arduous and fuc- cefsful exertions, during the fifteenth and fixteenth cen- turies, gradually fubfided, and for a confiderable time lain dormant, began to revive in Great Britain in the late reign *• ; and recovered all its former activity, under the cherifhing influence, and munificent encouragement, of his prefent Majefty. Soon after his acceflion to the throne, having happily clofed the deftrudlive operations of war, he turned his thoughts to enterprizes more humane, but not lefs bril- liant, adapted to the feafon of returning peace. While every liberal art, and ufefal lludy, fiourifhed under his patronage at hom^,, his fuperintending care was extended to fuch branches of knowledge, as required diftant exami- * Two voyages for difcovering a North Weft paflage, through Hudfon's Bay, were dien performed ; one under the command of Captain Middleton, in his Majefty's (hips the Furnace, and the Difcovery Pink, in 1741, and 1742. The other under the diredtion of Captains Smith and Moore, in the fhips Dobbs and California, fitted out by fubfcription, in 1746, and 1747. Vol. I. nation u INTRODUCTl ON. bl iii nation and inquiry ; and his fhips, after bringing back vic- tory and couqueft from every quarter of the known world, were now employed in opening friendly communications with its hitherto unexplored receffes. In the profecution of an obje<5t fo worthy of the Monarch of a great commercial people, one voyage followed another in clofe fucceflion ; and, we may add, in regular gradation. What Byron * had begun, Wallis + and Carteret | foon im- proved. Their fuccefs [;ave birth to a far more extenlive plan of difcovery, carried into execution, in two fubfequent voyages, conducted by Cook §. And that nothing might be left unattempted, though much had been already done, the fame Commander, whofe profeflional ikill could only be equalled by the perfevering diligence with which he had exerted it, in the courfe of his former refearches, was called upon, once more, to refume, or rather to complete, the furvey of the globe. Accordingly, another voyage was undertaken in 1776; which, though laft in the order of time, was far from being the leaft confiderable, with refpe^l to the extent and importance of its objects ; yet, Itill, far * Captain, now Admiral, Byron, had, under his command, the Dolphin and Tamer. He failed in June 1764, and returned in May 1766. f Captain Wallis had, under his command, the Dolphin and Swallow. He bilti in Auguft 1766, and retumed,iKth the Dolphin, in May 1768. % The Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret, having been feparated from Wallis, and, by keeping a different route, having made different dilcoverics, this may be confidered as a diftindl voyage. The Swallow returned to England in March 1769. § Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, failed in Auguft 1768, and returned in July 1771. In his (econd vopge, he had the Refolution and Adventure under his conunand. They foiled from England in July 1772, and returned on the 30th of July 1775. 3 lefs INTRODUCTION. Ill lefs fortunate than any of the former, as thofe objcdts were not accomplifhed, but at the expence of the valuable life of its Condudlor. When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are car- ried into execution with partial views, and upon interefted motives, it is natural to attempt to confine, within fome narrow circle, the advantages which might have been de- rived to the world at large, by an unreferved difclofure of all that had been efFeded. And, upon this principle, it has too frequently been confidered as found policy, perhaps, in this country, as well as amongft fome of our neighbours, to tiffcitX to draw a veil of fecrecy over the refult of enter- prizes to difcover and explore unknown quarters of the globe. It is to the honour of the prefent reign, that more liberal views have been now adopted. Our late voyages, from the very extenfive objects propofed by them, could not but convey ufeful information to every European nation ; and, indeed, to every nation, however remote, which cul- tivates commerce, and is acquainted with navigation : and that information has moft laudably been afforded. The fame enlarged and benevolent fpirit, which ordered thefe feveral expeditions to be undertaken, has alfo taken care that the refult of their various difcoveries Ihould be au- thentically recorded. And the tranfadtions of the five firft voyages round the world having, in due time, been com- municated *, under the authority of his Majefty's naval Minifter ; thofe of the fixth, which, befides revifiting many of the former difcoveries in the Southern, carried its opera- * The account of the four firft of thefe voyages, compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth, from the Journals of the feveral Commanders, was publifhed in 1772, in Three Volumes quarto; and Captain Cook's own account of the fifth, in 1777, in Two \'oliimes quarto. a 2 tions 1 1 ItV ^im I 1*1 I iv INTRODUCTION. tions into untrodden paths in the Northern hemifphere, are, under the fame fandtion, now fubmitted to the Public in thele VoUimes. One great plan of nautical inveftigation having been purfued throughout, it is obvious, that the feveral voy- ages have a clofe connection, and that an exa6t recollec- tion of what had been aimed at, and efFedled, in thofe that preceded, will throw confiderable light on our pe- riod. With a view, therefore, to allifl: the Reader in form- ing a juft eftimate of the additional information conveyed by this Publication, it may not be improper to lay before him a fliort, though comprehenfive, abftra.' '4 INTRODUCTION. a fatisfadtory anfwer to a queftion, fometimes afked by peevifh refinement, and ignorant malevolence, What bene- ficial confequences, if any, have followed, or are likely to follow, to the difcoverers, or to the difcovered, to the com- mon interefts of humanity, or to the increafe of ufeful knowledge, from all our boafted attempts to explore the diftant recefles of the globe ? . . ,. The general object of the feveral voyages round the world, undertaken by the command of his Majefty, prior to that related in this work, was to fearch for unknown tradts of land that might exift within the bofom of the immenfe expanfe of ocean that occupies the whole Southern hemi- fphere. : i* . Within that fpace, fo few refearches had been made, before our time, and thofe few refearches had been made fo imperfedlly, that the refiUt of them, as communicated to the world in any narration, had rather ferved to create imcertainty, than to convey information; to deceive the credulous, rather than to fatisfy the judicious inquirer ; by blending the true geography of above half the fuperficies of the earth with an endlefs variety of plaufible conjectures, fuggefted by ingenious fpeculation ; of idle tales, handed down by obfcure tradition ; or of bold fidlions, invented by deliberate falfehood. It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five dif- ferent circumnavigators of the globe, fome of them, at leaft, if not all, in tracks little known, and lefs frequented, had produced no difcoveries, to reward the difficulties and perils unavoidably encountered. But the following review will furnifli the moft fatisfa(5lory proofs, that his Majefty's inftrudlions have been executed with ability ; and that the repeated vifits of his lliips to the Southern hemifphere, have if- \u A vi INTRODUCTION. have very confidcrably added to our ftock of geographical knowledge. I. The South Atlantic Ocean was the firft fcene of our ope- rations. Falkland's lilands had been hitherto barely known to exift ; but their true pofition and extent, and every cir- cumltance which could render their exiftence of any con- fequence, remained abfolutely undecided, till Byron vifited them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed him thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coalls, and taken a complete furvey, a chart of Falkland's lilands has been conftrudled, with fo much accuracy, that the coafts of Great Britain, itfelf, are not more authentically laid down upon our maps. How little was really known of the iflands in the South Atlantic, even fo late as the time of Lord Anfon, we have the moft remarkable proofs, in the Hiftory of his voyage. Unavoidably led into miftake, by the imperfedl materials then in the poffeffion of the world, he had confidered Pe- pys's Ifland, and Falkland Ifles, as diftincl: places, diftant from each other about five degrees of latitude •*. Byron's refearches have re«5tified this capital error; and it is now decided, beyond all contradidlion, that future navigators will mijpend their time, if they look for Pepys^s IJland in lati- tude 47° ; /■/ being now certain, that Pepys's IJland is no other than tbefe iflands of Falkland \. Befides the determination of this confiderable point, other * See Lord Anfoti's Voyage, quarto edition, p. 91. t Thefc are Captain Cook's words, Preface to his rayage, p. 14. ; and the evidence, on which he forms this judgment, may be met with in Hawkefworth's Joulhal of Byron's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 23, 24—51, 52, 53, 54. lands, INTRODUCTION. Vll lands, fituated in the South Atlantic, have been brought forward into view. If the ifle of Georgia had been for- merly feen by La Roche, in 1675, and by Mr. Guyot, in the fhip Lion, in 1756, which feems to be probable, Captain Cook, in 1775, has Hiade us fully acquainted with its extent and true poiition ; and, in the fame year, he added to the map of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exift, and the moft Southern difcovery that has been ever accomplifhed '*'. II. Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been frequently vifited, and failed through by fliips of different nations, before our time ; a careful examination of its bays, and harbours, and head-lands, of the numerous iilands it con- tains, and of the coafts, on both fides, that inclofe it ; and an exadl account of the tides, and currents, and foundings, throughout its whole extent, was a tafk, which, if Sir John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted, they cannot be faid to have recorded fo fully, as to pre- clude the utility of future inveftigation. This tafk has been ably and efFe£tually performed by Byron, Wallis, and Carteret ; whofe tranladtions in this Strait, and the chart of it, founded on their obfervations and difcoveries, are a moft valuable acceflion to geography. III. If the corredt information, thus obtained, about every part of this celebrated Strait, fhould deter future adven- turers from involving themfelves in the difficulties and * See the Chart of Difcoveries in the South Atlantic. Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 210. embarrafTment? i 'i f I 'I ■t ' ■ %' viii INTRODUCTION. cmbarraflments of a labyrinth, now kn*)wn to be fo intri- cate, and the unavoidable fource of danger and delay, we have the fatisfadtion to have difcovered, that a fafer and more exjieditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be reafonably dejjended upon. The paflage roiind Cape Horn, has been repeatedly tried, both from the Eaft and from the Weft, and ftript of its terrors. We fliall, for the future, be lefs difcouraged by the labours and diftrefles experienced by the fquadrons of Lord Anfon and Pizarro, when we re- collcifl, that they were obliged to attempt the navigation of thofe fcas at an unfavourable feafon of the year ; and that there was nothing very formidable met with there, when they were traverfed by Captain Cook. To this diftinguiflied navigator was referved the honour of being the firft, who, from a feries of the moft fatisfa6tory obfervations, beginning at the Weft entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and carried on, with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego. through the Strait of Le Maire, has conftru6led a chart of the Southern extremity of America, from which it will appear, how much former navigators muft have been at a lofs to guide themfelves, and what advantages will now be enjoyed by thofe who fliall here- after fail rovmd Cape Horn. t IV. As the voyages of difcovery, undertaken by his Majefty's command, have facilitated the accefs of fliips into the Pa- cific Ocean, they have alfo greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents. Though the immenfe expanfc ufually diftinguiflied by this appellation, had been navigated by Europeans for near two centuries and a half •', by far the greater part of it, * MsgalhMH»'s Voyage was undertaken in 1519. particularly ^i •lip INTRODUCTION. ix particularly to the South of the equator, had remained, during all this time, unexplored. The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in general, its firft navigators, being merely to arrive, by this paflage, at the Moluccas, and the other Afiatic Spice Iflands, every intermediate part of the ocean that did not lie conti- guous to their Weftern track, which was on the North fide of the equator, of courfe efcaped due examination. And if Mendana and Quiros, and fome namelefs conductors of voyages before them *>•', by deviating from this track, and fleering Weftward from Callao, within the Southern tropic, were fo fortunate as to meet with various iflands there, and fo fanguine as to confider thofe iflands as marks of the ex- iflence of a neighbouring Southern continent ; in the ex- ploring of which they flattered themfelves they fliould rival the fame of De Gama and Columbus ; thefe feeble eltbits never led to any efFedlual difclofure of the fuppofed hidden mine of a New World. On the contrary, their voyages being conducted without a judicious plan, and their difcoveries being left imperfedt without immediate fettlement, or fub- fequent examination, and fcarcely recorded in any well- authenticated or accurate narrations, had been almofl for- got ; or were fo obfcurely remembered, as only to lei've the purpofe of producing perplexing debates about their fituation and extent ; if not to fuggeft doubts about their very exiflence. It feems, indeed, to have become a very early object of policy in the Spanifh councils, to difcontinue and to dif- courage any farther i"efearches in that quarter. Already maflers of a larger empire on the continent of America * See the particulars of their difcoveries in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Colleftion of Voyages in the South Pacific Ocean. Vol. 1. b than i "1? I: ''Hi' INTRODUCTION. than they coultl conveniently govern, and of richer mincn of the precious metals on that continent than the; couUl convert into xile, neither avarice nor ambition furniflicd reafons for aiming at a frelh acceflion of dominions. And thus, though fettled all along the Ihores of this Ocean, in a iituation fo commodious for profecutingdifcoveries throiigh- out its wide extent, the Spaniards remained fatisfied with a coatting intercourfe between their own ports ; never ftretch- ing acrofs the vaft gul^h that feparatcs that part of America from Alia, but in an unvarying line of navigation ; per- haps in a fingle annual fhip, betwi en Acapulco and Ma- nilla. The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific Ocean, were, in a great meafure, regulated by thofc of the Spaniards ; and confequently limited within the fame narrow bounds. With the exception, perhaps, of two in- ftances only, thofe of Le Maire and Roggewein, no lliips of another nation had entered this fea, through the Strait of Magalhaens, or round Cape Horn, but for the purpofes of trade with the Spaniards, or of hoftility againit them : pur- pofes which could not be anfwered, without precluding any probable chance of adding much to our ftock of dif- covery. For it was obviovilly incumbent on all fuch ad- venturers, to confine their cruifes within a moderate diftance of the Spanifti fettlements ; in the vicinity of which alone they could hope to exercife their commerce, or to exe- cute their predatory and military operations. Accordingly, foon after emerging from the Strait, or completing the circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a Northerly courfe, to the uninhabited illand of Juan Fernandez, their iifual fpot of rendezvous and refrefliment. And after ranging along the continent of America, from Chili to I California, I INTRODUCTION. xi California, they either reverfed their courfe back to the Atlantic ; or, if they ventured to extend their voyage, by flrctching over to Afia, they never thought of trying expe- riments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the Ocean ; but chofe the beaten path (if the expreffion may be iifed), within the limits of which it was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make their voyage profitable to themfelves ; but could have little profpe(St, if they had been defirous, of making it ufeful to the public, by gaining any acceflion of new land to the Map of the World. By the natural operation of thefe caufes, it could not but happen, that little progrefs fliould be made toward obtain- ing a full and accurate knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Something, however, had been attempted by the induftrious, and once enterprifing Dutch ; to whom we are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purpoles of difcovery ; and whofe refearchcs, in the Southern latitudes of this Ocean, are much better afcertained than are thofe of the earlier Spanifli navigators above mentioned. Le Mairc and Schouten, in 1616, and Roggewein, in 1722, wifely judging, that nothing new could be gained by ad- hering to the ufual paflage on the North fide of the line, traverfed this Ocean from Cajje Horn to the Eaft Indies, { roifing the South tropic ; a fpace which had been fo fel- dom, and fo ineffectually vifited ; though popular belief, fortified by philofophical fpeculation, expecSted there to reap the richeft harveft of difcovery. Tafman, in 1642, in his extenfive circuit from Batavia, through the South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greatefl: diftance fro.m the American fide, where it never had been examined before. And his range, continued b a from i!i' Xii INTRODUCTION. from a high Southern latitude, North waul to New Guinea, and the illands to the Eaft of it near ih j equator, protkitcd intermediate difcoveries, that have rendered his voyage nie- morahle in the annals of navigation. But ftill, upon the whole, what was elTe la, by the infertion of fome new illands. Bui tiic number, nnd the extent of thefe infertions were fo inconiicic .ble, that they may be laid to appear Rari, nantes in gurgitc /ado. And, if the difcoveries were few, thofe few were made very imperfe^ly. Some coafts were approached, but not landed upon ; and pafled without w.iitiug to examine their extent, and connedlion with thofe that might exift at no great diilance. If others were landed upon, the vifits were, in general, fo tranfient, that it was fcarcely poflible to build ui»on a foundation, {o weakly laid, any information that cou1wing enumeration of their various ai.^ \ -.y CiUenfive operations, which have drawtv i# INTRODUCTION. xiu ■I it m iHwn up the veil that hud hitherto heeii thrown over the geography of lb great a proportion of the globe. T. The ievcral lands, of which ni^y account had been given, as U'-n by any ot the prccc(hng navigators, Spanifti or D»uch, have been carefully looked for ; and moil of them (at leaft luch as fecmed to b< ' any confequence) found out md vilitcd; and not vilitcd in curfory manner, but every means ufed to corredl former i flakes, an, i ly failin ; round them. Who has not heard, or r- d, ot the boaf cd Ticrra Aujlralla del Efpiritu Santo of Qi ros ? But its lx)ld pretcnfions to be a part of a Southern coi riiiei\ could not lland'Captain C ook\s examination, who faiicl ro .lul it, and afligned it its i uc jwfition and moderate >unds, in the Archipelago of he New Hebrides •'. 2. Befidcs peneding many of the* di* ics of their predcceffors, our ate navigators have enru i. d geographi- cal knowledge wi. h a long catalogue of tlv. own. The Pacific Ocean, within the South tropic, r atedly tra- verfed, in every dire^Stion, was f(>und to n n\ with a fcemingly endlefs profulion of huibitable 1| of land. Illands fcattered thn ugh the amazing fpace o-: lear four- fcore degrees of lonj. tude, feparated at variou diflances, or grouped in nimierDUS clufters, have, at their nMMoach, as it were, ftarted intt exirtence; and fuch ampU ,. ovints have been brought home concerning them and their inha- bitants, as may ferve e\ ery ufeful purpofc of inquiry ; and, • Bougainville, in 1 768, did no more than difcover that the land here was not con- nefted, but compoled of iflands. C iptain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole group. Sec Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 96. to II I. w ;' I i ii lit i ,1 XIV INTRODUCTION. ords, who .bore fo conficlerable a , ibave left little more to be done hi to life Captain Cook's w fliare in thole dilcoveries that part *.• 3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them con- tributed toward increafing oiir knowledge of the illands that exift in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the Southern tropic; but how far that ocean reached to the Weft, what lands bounded it on that fide, and the connec- tion of thofe lands with the difcoveries of former naviga- tors, was Hill the reproach of geographers, and remained ablblutely unknown, till Captain Cook, during his firlt voyage in 1770 +, brought back the moft fatisfadtory deci- fion of this imiwrtant queftion. With a wonderful per- fevcrance, and conlummate ikill, amidil an uncommon combination of perplexities and dangers, he traced this coaft near two thoufand miles, from the 38° of South lati- tude, crofs the tropic, to its Northern extremity, within lo° \ of the equino(ftial, where it was found to join the lands already explored by the Dutch, in fevcral voyages from their Afiatic fettlements, and to which they have given the name of New Holland. Thofe difcoveries made in the lift (entury, before Tafman's voyage, had traced the North and the Weft coafts of this land ; and Captain Cook, by his extenfive oi^erations on its Eaft fide, left little to be done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, in latitude 38°, where his examination of this coaft began, and that part of Van Diemen's I>and, from whence Tafman took his departure, was not above fifty- five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that they were connedtcd; though Captain Cook cautioufly fays, that be could not determine whether his New South Wales, that is, * Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239, t See Hawkcfworth's Collcdlion, Vol. iii the ■f INTRODUCTION. 3^V 4 ■tSBP the Eaft coaft of New Holland, joins to Van Diemen's Land, or no ••. liut what was thus left undetermined by the ope- rations of his firft voyage, was, in the courfe of his fecond, foon cleared up ; Captain Furneaux, in the Adventure, during his reparation from the Refolution (a fortimate re- paration as it thus turned out) in 1773, having explored Van Diemen's Land, from its Southern point, along the Eait coaft, far beyond Tafman's rtation, and on to the lati- tude 38°, where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 had commenced +. It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have nuw a full knowledge of the whole circumference of this vaft body of land, this fifth part of the world (if I may fo fpeak), which our late voyages have difcovered to be of fo amazing a magnitude, that, to ufe Captain Cook's words, it is of a larger extent than any other country in the known worldf that does not bear the name of a continent %, 4. Tafman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leav- ing Van Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coaft to which he gave the name of New Zealand. The extent of this coaft, and its pofition in any dire(5tion but a part of its Weft fide, m hich he failed along in his courfe Northward, being left abfolutely unknown, it had been a favourite opinion amongft geographers, fince his time, that New Zealand was a part of a Southern continent, rinming North and South, from the 33° to the 64° of South latitude, and its Northern coaft ftretching crofs the South Pacific to an immenfe diftance, where its Eaftern boundary had been feen by Juan Fernandez, half a century before. Captain * Hawkcfworth, Vol. iii. p. 483. f Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 114. X Hawkcfworth, Vol. iii. p. 627. Cook's i' I III' 4 ii' H, if. ■ V k '■y xvi I N T Tx O D U C T I O N. Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, has totally deftroyed this luppqfition. Though Tafman mult ftill have the credit of having firft feen New Zealand ; to Captain Cook folely belongs that of having really explored it. He fpent near fix months upon its coalls in 1769 and 1770*, circumna- vigated it completely, and afcertained its extent and divi- iion into two illands +, Repeated vifits fince that, have ]>erfcvfted this imjxjrtant difcovery, which though now known to be no part of a Southern continent, will, proba- bly, in all future charts of the world, be diftinguiflied as the largeft illands that exift in that j^art of the Southern hemifphcre. 5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a queftion involved in much doubt and un- certainty, before Captain Cook's failing between them, through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hefi- tatc to call this an important acquifition to geography. For though the great fagacity and extenfive reading of Mr. Dalrymple, had difcovered fome traces of fuch a pafTage having been found before |, yet thefe traces were fo ob- fcure, and fo little known in the prefent age, that they had not generally regulated the con(lru6tion of our charts ; the Prelident dc Brolfts §, who wrote in 1756, and was well verfed in geographical refeafdies, had not been able to w *ii\ * From OiSobcr 6, 1769, to March 31, 1770. t Its Southern extremity nearly in latitude 47°, and its Northern in 34" J-. Sec Cap- tain Cook's chart, in Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. 281. X Sec tlie track of Torre, in one of Quiros's fhips, in 1606, between New Holland and New Ciuinca, ujwn Mr. Dalrymple's Chart of Difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, before 1764. § M. de Brofl'es fays of New Guinea: " C'eft une longue ifle, ou prefqu' ifle, fi elle ** touchc a la Nouvcllc HoUandc." Navi^citiom aux Terra Aujlraki-) Tom. i. p. 434. fatisfy i, ;^i r! ^f INTRODUCTION. fatisfy himfelf about them ; and Monf. de Eougainville, in 1768, who had ventured to fall in with the South coaft of New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the Weftward of its South Eail point, chofe rather to work thofe ninety leagues direilly to windward, at a time when his people were in fuch diftrefs for provifions as to ea.t the feal-lkins from off the yards and rigging, than to run the rifk of finding a paf- fage, of the exiftence of which he entertained the llrongeft doubts, by pcrfevering in his Wefterly courfe ■•'■. Captain Cook therefore in this part of his voyage (though he mo- deflly difclaims all merit t), has cftabliflied, beyond future controverfy, a fadt of elTential fcrvice to navigation, by opening if not a new, at leaft an unfrequented and for- gotten communication between the South Pacific and In- dian Oceans. 6. One more difcovery, for which ^ve are indebted to Captain Carteret, as fimilar in fome degree to that lafl mentioned, may properly fucceed it, in this enumeration. Dampier, in failing round what was fuppofed to be i>art of the coafl of New Guinea, difcovered it to belong to a fepa- rate iiland, to which he gave the name of New Britain. But that the land which he named New Britain, fliould be fub-divided again into two feparate large iflands, with many fmaller intervening, is a point of geographical information, which, if ever traced by any of the earlieft navigators of the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the prefcnt age : and its having been afcertained by Captain Carteret, * " Le trifte etat ou nous etions reduits, lie nous permettoit de cherclier en faif.mt " route a roueft, un pafTage au fud de la NouvcUc Ciuincc, qui nous frayat par le (}o!fc " de la Carpcntcrie une route nouvellc et courtc aux iles Moluques. Run n'eloit « /M f:;i * It muft be obferved, however, that Monfieur le Monier, in the Memoirs of the French Academy of Sciences for 1776, pleads for the exiftence of Cape Circumcifion, feen by Bouvet in 1738, which our Englifh navigator fought for in vain, and fuppofes to have been only an ifland of ice. Mr. Wales, in a paper read before the Royal Society, very forcibly replied to M. le Monier's objedtions ; and the attack having been repeated, he has drawn up a more extended defence of this part of Captain Cook's Journal, which he hath very obligingly communicated, and is here infcrted. jfrguments, tending to prove that Captain Cook fought for Cape Grcumcifton under the proper Meridian ; and that the ObjeHions which have been made to his Conduit^ in this refpeiif are not well founded^ , In the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris for 1776, printed in 1779, ]ld. Le Alonicr has made fome remarks, with a defign to (hew that Captain Cook fought the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, in a wrong place ; and that, inftead of looking for it under the meridian of 9° { or io° of Eaft longitude, he ought to have looked for it under a meridian which is only 3°, or 3° \ to the Eaftward of the meridian of Green- wich : and confequently that this land may cxift, notwithftanding all that has yet been done 'i INTRODUCTION. XXI )r :e 1- [n 1- :h it 3e r- :i- r- ic «, [t- ce the on, 5 to ety, ted, lich optr arc ight cing or it ecn- tiecu lone cnce of a Southern continent is ncccffary to preferve an equilibrium between the two hemifphercs. But however plauilble done to find it. M. Le Monier has alfo two additional .W-Tioirs on the fame fubje(5l, in the volume fpr i779> occafioncd, as it appears, by fome objections wiiich have been made to his former Memoir before the Academy. For Came reafoii or other, the Academy has not thought proper to print the objeflions which have been made to M. Le Mon'm'^ hy- pothefis } nor has he been particular enough in his two Memoirs, which reply to them, to enable me to fay of what importance the objedlions are. I can only gather, that they contain fome exceptions to the quantity by which M. Le Monier afTerts the variation al- ters in 10° of longitude, under the parallel of 54° South ; and which, I conceive, has little to do in the difpute. Whether the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, exifts or not, is a point of fmall importance to geography ; as the mod ftrenuous aflerters of its exiftence muft allow it to be a very inconfiderable ifland, and of no ufe. This, therefore, is not, in itfelf, a matter worthy of difpute : but, in aflerting this, M. Le Monier has, and I am forry to obferve it, with fome afperity too, particularly in his fecond Memoir, endeavoured to cenfure the judgment and conduft of Captain Cook, whofe memory I have every rcafon to revere, as well as the judgment of thofe who were with him ; and on this account, I cannot help feeling myfelf called on to explain the motives which induced Captain Cook to place no de- pendence on the arguments, now adduced by M, Le Monier, in fupport of his fuppofition ; and which, M. Le Monier muft know, were not unattended to, at that time, from what the Captain has faid, p. 236. Vol. II. of his Account of the Voyage. And it may be proper to obferve here, that what fell from Ctptain Cook, on tliis fuhjefl, was to fliew that this circumftance was then attended to, and not to throw blame on M. Bouwt, for whofe memory and abilities Captain Cook entertained great rcfpecl : nor is it incompatible widi the utmoft refpedl, for a man to have a favourable opinion of his own labours ; or to en- deavour to fhew why he thinks the difagreement between them and thofe of another per- fon, when there is one, does not arife from an error committed by himfelf. There could, therefore, be no occafion for M. Le Monier to exprefs himfelf fo harlhly,, as he has done, in feveral parts of his fecond Memoir. The fubftance of M Le Monier's argument is this. In. 1739, when AL Boimet's dif- covery is fuppofed to have been made, the methods for determining tlie longitude of a (hip at fea were very defe£live ; and, of coutfe, the longitude of any land which happenc-d accidentally to be feen by one, was equally imcertain. On a prefumption that tliis was the cafe with refpe<5l to Cape Circumcifion, AI. Le Aloni-r enquires into the quantity of the variation of the magnetic needle, obferved by AI, Bouvet at that pL-ice ; and alio into ob- fervations of the fame kind, made at other places in the n'.ighbourhood of it, about the fame I 't!l -I i xxU 1 N T H O D U C T 1 O N. plaufiMc this theory may feem, at fkft iight, experience has abundantly detedled its fallacy-. In confequence of Captain «nte time, as well as both before and finee. And, by compHuig AtSe 6b£trvatioai toge- ther, he concludes, that at the time when Captain Cook iiaw in tbefe feas, Ac variation •f the needle at Cape Circumcirton muft have been io° Wcfterly : wfaoreaa, in the moft VVefterly point of Captain Cook's track, where he was iiifficiendy near the parallel of 54" South, to have feen land fitMat«d in it, the variation was 13° f Wcfterly. This dif- ference of 3° I, in the variation, anfwers to about 7° of longitude, in this part of the pa- rallel of 54° South : rnd by fo much did Captain Cook fall in with this parallel to the Eaftward of what he ought to have done to iee the land in queftion. " Huice (M. Lc « Monicr infers), that it is not furprizing the Britifh navigator fhould not find Cape " Circumcirton under a meridian w4iich is 28° f to the Eadward of P'erro, when it if " really fitiuted under a meridian which is but 21° { to the Eailward of it." In replying to thefe allegations, I fluli, firft, Ihew, that, granting the dependence which M. Le Mtmer fuppofes may be placed on obfervations of the variation made at fea, he has ftated the quantity of the variation, obferved on board the Reiblution, very erro- ncoufly. Secofvlly, I fhall prove, beyond contradi£liou, that obfervations of the variation, made at fea, cannot be depended on, for the purpofes to which M. Lt Mmitr has applied them. And, lafVly, that no material error had crept into M. Btuvet's reckoning ; but that if any error did exifl, it muft have been of a contrary nature to that which M. Le Monitr iuppofes. That M. Lt Mtnitr has not given altogether a true reprefentation of the matter, will appear from hence. On the i6th of February, at noon *, the Refolution was in latitude 54° Z^k' Soutl>i which is fuAciently near the parallel of S4° South, to fee high land, the Northern extremity of which lies to the Southward of that parallel ; and at that time we were in 6° Eaft of Greenwich, or 23° \ Eaft of die ifland of Ferro : that is, 4° i Id's than is alfigned for our fituation by M. Lt Attnier. On tLe evening of the £une day, the (hip being in latitude 54° 24', and longitude 6° 30', or 24° J Eaft of Ferro, the variation was no more than t2° Y Weft, which alfo is near a degree and half le(s than M. Lt Momer fays it was, when we firft arrived in a proper parallel for feeing Cape Circumctfion. It is true, the next morning, in latitude 54° 21^'' South, longitude 8' e' Eaft, • I here go by vhe dates in " The Original Aftronomical ObfervationJ," printed by or- der of the Board of Longitude ; which, after the 14th of February 1775, diifer oae day (roQ Captaia Cook'* datci. INTRODUCTION. xxiu Captain Cook's voyage, now under confideration, we have a thorough knowledge of the ftate of the Southern hemi- fphere, 8° 6^ Eaft, we had 13* 42' Weft variation ; but this was after wc had run more than two degrees within fight of the parallel of 54° South. It is, moreover, highly pro- bable, that both thefe variations were loo great ; for, on the 1 7th, in the evening, lati- tude 54° 35^ South, and longitude 9° 20' Kaft ; that is, t" ^ more to the Eaflward, aid after we had run 3°! on the parallel wc were then on, the variation was no more than 13° i(/ Weft. It is alfo worthy of remark, that on the 14th, in the evening, latitude 56° 14!'' South, and longitude 4° 50' Eaft, which is but 1° 10' to the Wcftward of the point, where the Reiolution came firft into a proper fltuatidn to fee land, fituated in th« parallel of 5,^° South, the variation obfervod was no more than 6° 50' Weft. And we may further add, that on the ift of March, 1 774, the Adventure had no more than 1%" i Weft variation, though flie was then confiderably both to the Northward and Eaftward of our fttuation on the 17th of P'ebruary in the morning, on both which accounts the va- riation ought to have been greater, inftead of a whole degree lefs. From all thefe cir- cumftances, there can be little doubt but that the two variations, obferved by us on the 1 6th and 17th of February, were too great; or that the variation, at the point where the Refolution firft came fuificiently near the parallel of 54° South, to fee land, the Northern extremity of which is fituated in that parallel, could not be more than 1 1° | Weft, inftead of 1 3° f , as AI. Le Monitr has reprefented it. Under this head of enquiry I may alfo obferve, that although the Refolution was to« much to the Southward of the parallel of 54° South, when (he crofled the meridian which is 21° I to the Eaftward of Ferro; that is, 3°^ Eaft of Greenwich, the longitude which M. Le Monier afligns for Cape Circumcifion, to fee it, if it had been in that fituation ; yet, her confort, the Adventure, was for feveral degrees on each fide of that meridian ; and cfpecially when (he had 10° J of Weft variation, full as near to the parallel of 54° South, as M. Beuvet was to the land when he faw it • : and on the day that flie aiftually paflcd that meridian, had fine clear weather f. Hence, therefore, granting M. Le Monier his own arguments, which, however, I have proved to be erroneous ; and that obfervations made at fea, for the variation of the compafs, may be depended on for the purpofc of find- ing the longitude, it is utterly impoflible that both the Refolution and Adventure could have paffed Cape Circumcifion without feeing it. But I fhall now fliew, that thefe ob- fervations are liable to a much greater error than the whole quantity, fo rigoroufly infilled «n by this gentleman. I will • See The Original Aftronomical Obfcrvationi, p. 185, and Bouvet'i Voyage, publilhed by Mr. Dalrymple, p. 4, and 11. t See the Obfervations, p. 218. 1(1 xxiv INTRODUCTION. fphcrc, and can pronounce with certainty, that the equili- hriiim of the globe is effecSlually preferved, though the proiwrtion I will not h«rc nin the ri(k of incurring M. Lt Aionitr't difpleafure, by calling the ac- curacy of M. Hoifvtt's obfervations in (jiicftion ; but will admit every thing that he him- telf can think due to the inftruments and obfervations of that defcrving navigator. It ia enough for my argument, and it is but too evident, from the obfervations themfelves, that eurs were bv no means capable of determining the variation to fo fmall a quantity as that which AL Lt Monier reds his whole caufe upon j and if fo, his arguments, which depend wholly on a fup(iofition, that not only they, but M. Boinxi'i alfo, were capable of deter- mining it with the utmoft exaftnefs, muft fall to the ground. iff, It app«ars, from various indances, that the variations obfcrved by the fame com- pafs would differ 3° to 5', 6°, and fometimes even 10°, from no other caufc whatever, but putting the fhip's head a contrary way • 2d, That the fame compafs, in the fan. ' fituation in every rcfpe£l, within a few miles, but at two different times of the fame d;./^ -vould give variations differing from one ano- ther, 3", 4», 5^ 6°, and even 7° \. 3d, That the fame compafs, on the fame day, and in the hands of the fame obfcrver, will give variations differing from one another by 5°, on board the fame (hip, when under fail, and when at anchor in a road-dead %. 4th, Compaffcs, made by the fame artirt, at the fame time and place, but on board dif- ferent (hips, differed 3°, 4°, and even 5° in the variation §. Sth, 'I'he fame Compaffcs, on board the fame (hip, and within a few miles of the fame fltua«ion, but atdifferen' •imes of our being there, gave vari.itions differing by 4° and 5", t>r upwards ||. 6th, Different • See the Oricinal Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, March 11, •773' P- -7»: Janu.iry 24, 1774, p. 375. and July 28, p. 378. t Obfervations in the fecond Voyage, February 2, 1773, p. 37!. and January 19, 1775, p. 382. Alfo Obfervations in hil Voyage. Jul/ 17, 1776, p. 179. Auguft 30, p. 181. January 24, 1777, p. 192. and Septcmbt-r 15, 1778, p. 20;. \ Altronomical obfervations of (ccond Voyage, July 14, 177;, P- 38;. § Compare the Allroiioniical Obfervations, made in tlie fecond Voy.ige, Auguft 3, and g, and September 4, 1772, p. 181. with thofe of the fame dates, p. 369. Thoi'c of January II, and 14, and February 7, 1773, p. 182, with thofe of the fame dates, p. 371. Alfo Allionomical Obfervations, made in the lall Vi)yaj;;e, of December 27, 1776, p. 191. Fe- i>ruary 22, 177!^, p. 201. May 5, and 8, p. 102. July 9, and 24, 1779, p. 209. and January 16, 1780, p. 212. with tliofe of the fame dates, p. 291, 293, 294, 297, Hnd 298. II Compare Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voy.igc, February 10, n. 37^. with Obfervations of December 11, 1774, p. 3iii. Alfo Obfervations, nude in tiK- lilt Voyage, May 3, and June iS, 1779, p. 20X. I' I INTRODUC ion XXV II. d (J. uiai V Alfo Fe- anil =9;. i l)ioportion of fca ailually failed through, leaves no fiif- fiticnt fi)acc for the corrcfponding iii il's ot land, which, on 6th, DifTtrent compadbs, at the fame time, on board the fame fliiis and in cvevy re- (j)cd under tlic fame circumftanccs, will give variations diftcring from one another, 3% +', 5°, and 6'^ •. Thcfc dift'crcnces, feveral of which happened very near the place in qucftion, arc all of them at leaft equal to, mod of them much greater, and fome of them double that which Af. Lt Mmicr founds his argument on, even according to his own account of it, which I have already (hewn is by no means admilFible ; and, therefore, totally invalidate it. To allege that the inftruments made u^ of in Captain Cook's two voyages were bad, or that the obfervers were not expert in the ufe of them, will anfwcr no purpofe : they are the inftruments and obfervers which M, Le Mmier'i argument muft reft on ; ajid, therefore, let thofc of the French, or any other navigator, have been ever fo much better than they were (which few will be hardy enough to aflert, and fewer ftill found weak, enough to believe), it will avail nothing to the point in difpute, which muft evidently fall to the ground, if the obfervations made for finding the variation in Captain Cook's voyage arc oot fufficient to fupport it. What then muft become of it, if M, Bmwi-t's obfcrvations, of this kiiul, were liable to .in equal, or a greater error ? which, without any rcafonablc caufe for oftence, we might fuppofe tlicy were. It is not necelfary to account for thefe dift'crcnces in the obferved variations in this place, nor yet to point out tlie rcafons why fuch anomalies have not been noticed in ob- fcrvations of this kind before. I (hall, however, remark, that I have hinted at fome of the caufcs in my introdui5lion to the obfcrvations which were made in Captain Cook's fccoml voyage ; and many others will readily oftcr themfelves to pcrfons who have had much praiStice in making tliufc obfcrvations, and who have attentively conftdercd the principles on wliich the inftruments arc conftruifteii, and the manner jn which they are fabricated. Nor is it at all furprizing, that the errors to which the inftruments and ob- fcrvations of this kind are liable, (hould not have been difcovered before, fmcc no navi- gators before us ever gave the fame opportunity, by multiplying their obfcrvations, and making them under fuch a variety of circumftances as we did. Having now fully fliewn, that the circumftances, brought forward by A/. Le Motit-r, in fupport of his ar;^ument, arc ncithci- fuch as can be depended on, nor yet fairly rcnre- ftnttil • Obfcrvations made ia the fccond Voyaee, February 2, 1773, p. 371. March 18, p. 372. and January 24, 1774, p- 375' Ste alfo Obfcrvations made iall Voyage, Augull 18, 1776, p. iSo. Oaolicr 7, tirid 14, p. i8g, and igo. December 12, p. ibid. Jiuuary 24, 1777, p. 192. March 10, p. 193. July 9, and 17, 1779, p. 203. January 16, 178^, p. 212. iVlaich 24, p. 213. and M.iy 19, p. 214. Vol . I, d XXVI INTRODUCTION. i M on fpcculative arguments, celTary >. liad been muintaineil to be ne- If ftntcd, I (hall next attempt to dcmonftratf, that it is utterly improbable M. Houvct. could be out, in his account of longitude, fo much as is hiTc fupjuifcJ, in the fliort run which had been made fumi the ifland of St. Catherine, the place they took their depar- ture from ; on the contrary, that there is fufHcient reafon to believe the error, of what- ever miignitude it might be, was of a different n.iture from that contended fur, and that the two (hips, inftead of being to the W'eftward of their account of longitude, were ac- tually to the Eaftward of it. For, according to their Journals, cxtrai5\ed from the archivci of the French Fall India Company, by At. D'Aprn, printed under his inlpciSlion, and publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple, F. R. S. amongll other voyages made for the purpofe of examining the Southern parts of the Atlantic Ocean, the longitude, according to the Ragle's run from St. Catherine's, was 26" 27', and according to the Mary's, 26° 20' Eaft of 'rencriff; that is, t/ 57', and 9° 50' Fall of Greenwiih, or 27° 43', and 27' 36' Eaft of Ferro. But the Mary, which went to the Cape of (lood Hoik, made 7" 1/ Eaft longitude from the land in qucftion, to that place. Confequently, the C«pe of Good Hope being in longitude 18° 23' Eaft of (Jrecnwich, CajH- Circumcifion will be in ii' 10' Eaft of Greenwich, or 1° 2c/ more to tlie Faftward than the run by the dime (hip from the ifland of St. Catherine's makes it. Again, the Eagle made the difference of longitude between Cape Circumcifion, and the ifland of Rodrigucs, 49' 44'; and by the obfervations of M. Pi'i^re, this ifland is in 62° 50' of F.aft longitude from Green- wich : Cape Circumcifion is therefore in 13° 6' Eaft of Greenwich, or 2° 9' more to the Eaftward than by the F.igle's run from St. Catherine's. Hence, therefore, as tlic longitude of this land, rcfulting from a comparifon of that (hewn by each of the (hips, on their making land at places where the longitude is exceedingly well determined, is greater than that which refults from their run from St. Catherine's, the longitude of which is not known with certainty within fevcral degrees, we may infer, with great fafety, that whatever the quantity of M. Bouvet's error might be, when he is fuppofed to have feen Cape Circumcifion, it muft have been in defcdl, and not in cxcefs, as AT. Le Menier fuppofes it. ,ni :* Christ's Hospital,' April 20, 1784. [ W. WALES. • The judgment of the ingenious Author of R/cht-ri'k-sfur Ics jfnuricairts, on this qucf- tion, fcems to be very deltrving (>( a pl.ice here : " Qii'on calcule, comme on voudra, " on fera toujours contraint d'avoucr, qu'il y a une plus grande portion dc continent " fitute dam la latitude Icptentrionalc, que dans la latitude auftralc. «C'eft INTRODUCTION. xxvu If fornicr navigators luvc added more land to the known ^lobe than Captain Cook, to him, at leall, was rclcrvcd the honour of being forcmoft in dillloling to us the extent of ica that covers its lurfatc. His own fummary view of the tranfadlions of this voyage, will be a proper tonclulion to thcl'c remarks : " I had now made the circuit of the South- *» ern Ocean in a high latitude, and traverfed it in fuch " a manner as to leave not the leait room for there being " a continent, unlefs near the pole, and o\it of the reach " of navigation. By twice vifiting the Tropical Sea, 1 had " not only fettled the iituation of Ibmc old difcoveries, *' but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, « very little to be done, even in that part. Thus 1 flatter " myfelf, that the intention of the voyage has, in every re- IpeJt, been fully anfwered ; the Southern hemifphere *' lufTiciently explored ; anil a final end put to the fearch- " ing after a Southern continent, which has, at times, en- " groffed the attention of fome of the Maritime Powers " for near two centuries pad, and been a favourite theory " amongll the geographers of all ages *." Thus far, therefore, the voyages to difclofe new tracks of navigation, and to reform old defe(5ls in geography, ap- pear to have been profecutcd with a fatisfa<5lory fliare of fuccefs. A perufal of the foregoing fummary of what had « C'eft fort mal a-propos, qu'on a foutenu que cette repartition iiitgale ne fauroit cx- « iftcr, fous pretextc que le globe pcrdroit ("on equilibre, faute d'un contrepoids fuffifant " au pole meridionulc. II elt vrai qu'un pied cube d'eau falee ne pefe pas autant qu'uii " pied cube de terre j mais on auroit du rcfltichir, qu'il peut y avoir fous I'ocean dts lits " & dcs couches de matiircs, dont la pef.inleur fpccifique varic a Tinfini, & que Ic pcu " de profondeur d'unc mcr, verfec fur une grande fiirface, contrebalance Ics ciidroits im il " y a mollis de mer, mais oii elle eft plus profonde." — Rechcrches Phihfiphlqucs, Tom. ii. r- 375- ' Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. 3 been XXVIU INTRODUCTION. lit i 1^ ; > aired of, by having been fo often miffed, ceafed, for many years, U) be fought for. if: :;:!;! J INTRODUCTION. xxix m Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a North Weft paflhgc through Hudfon's Bay, in our own time, once more recalled the attention of this country to that un- dertaking ; and, by his adtive zeal, and perfevering folici- tation, renewed the fpirit of difcovcry. But it was renewed in vain. For Captain Middleton, fent out by Government in 174I) and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private fociety, in 1746, though encouraged by an atain Cook, juftly merited the cenfure he received, for improper behaviour when in- trufted with command in Davis's Strait ; and the talents of Young, as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to contribute to the glory of a vidlory, as Commander of a line of battle fliip, than to add to geographical difcoveries, by encountering mountains of ice, and exploring unknown coafts •••'. Both Pickcrfgill and Young having been ordered to pro- ceed into Baffin's Bay; and Captain Cook being dircdled not to begin his fearch till he fliould arrive in the latitude of 65°, it may not be improper to fay fomething here of the reafons which weighed with thole who planned the voyages, and framed the inftru<5lions, to carry their views fo far Northward, as the proper fituation, where the paflage, if it exirted at all, was likely to be attempted with fuccefs. It may be alked. Why was Hvidfon's Bay negledled on our fide of America ; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to begin his fearch on its oppofite fide, in much lower lati- • In the Philofophical Tranfa£lions, Vol. Ixviii. p. 1057, we have the track of Pickerfgill's voyage, which, probably, may be of ufc to our Greenland fhips, as it con- tains many obfer ations for fixing the longitude and latitude of the coafts in Davis's Strait. But it appears f.fiat he never entered Baffin's Bay, the hlgheft Northern latitude to which he advanced being 68° 14'. As to Young's proceedings, having failed abfolutely in making anv dilcovery, it is of lefe confcquence, that no communication of his joiirruJ could be procured I tudes ? >,■}:: ,''■(■■ I ■^ 4 INTRODUCTION. tudcs ? Particularly, why not explore the Itr.vit leading into the Weltera lea of John de Fuca, hetween the latitudes of 47° and 48° ; the Archipelago of St. I.azarus of Adnural dc Fonte, between 50" and 55^? ^"** ^^^ rivers and lakes through which he found a palFagc North Eaftward, till he met with a fliip from Bofton ? As to the pretended difcoverics of de Fuca, the dreek Pilot, or of de Fonte, the Spanhh Admiral, though they have fometimes found their way into (itftitious maps, or have been warmly contended tor by the cfpoufers ()f fan- ciful fyltems ; to have diretf^ed Captain Cook to Ipend any time in tracing them, would have been as wife a meafure as if he had been diretSted to trace the fituation of Lilli- put or Brobdignag. The latter arc, indeed, confeiredly, mere objedls of imagination ; and the former, deftitute of any fufficient external evidence, bear fo many rtriking marks of internal abfunlity, as warrant our pronovuicing them to be the fabric of impofture. Captain Cook's in- ftrudlions were fo;inded on an accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and of what ftill remained to do ; and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of begin- ning his fearch for a paffagc till his arrival in the lati- tude of 65°. Of thi> every fair and capable inquirer will be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following particulars. Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and T742, into Hudfon's Bay, had proceeded farther North than any of his predcccfTors in that navigation. But though, from his former acquaintance with that Bay, to which he had frequently failed in the fervice of the Company, he had enter! uned hopes of finding out a paifage through it into the I'acific Ocean, the obfervations which he was now Vol. 1. f enabled xli 1 1 ' t '1:' [■i I il •r. xlii INTRODUCTION. enabled to make, induced him to change his opinion ; and, on his return to England, he made an unfavourable report. Mr. Dobbs, the patron of the enterprize, did not acquiefce in this ; and, fortified in his original idea of the pradlica- bility of the paflage, by the teftimony of fome of Mid- dleton's officers, he appealed to the Public, accufmg him of having mifreprefented fadts, and of having, from in- terefted motives, in concert with the Hudfon's Bay Com- pany, decided againft the pradlicability of the paflage, though the difcoveries of his own voyage had put it with- in his reach. He had, between the latitude of 65° and 66% found a very confiderable inlet running Weftward, into which he entered with his fliips ; and, " after repeated trials of the tides, and " endeavours to difcover the nature and courfe of the " opening, for three weeks fucceflively, he found the flood " conftantly to come from the Eallward, and that it was a " large river he had got mto," to which he gave the name of Wager River *. The accuracy, or rather the fidelity of this report was denied by Mr. Dobbs, who contended that this opening is a Strati, and not a frejh water river-, and that Middleton, if he had examined it properly, would have found a paflage through it to the Weftern American Ocean. The failure of this voyage, therefore, only ferved to furnifli our zeal- ous advocate for the difcovery, with new arguments for at- tempting it once more ; and he had the good fortune, after getting the reward of twenty thoufand pounds eftabUftied by ad of parliament, to prevail upon a fociety of gentle- men and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California ; which Ihips, it was hoped, would be able to find their way * Sec the Abftrail of his Journal, publiflied by Mr. Dobbs. into '•S» .|i.j|ji INTRODUCTION. xliii 1 into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middle- ton's voyage had pointed out, and which he was beheved to have' mifreprefented. This renovation of hope only produced frefh difappoint- ment. For it is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, inftcad of confuting, ftrongly confirmed all that Middleton had aflerted. The fuppofed Strait was found to be nothing more than a frefli water river, and its utmoft Weftern navigable boundaries were now afcertained, by ac- curate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus difappointed our hopes, as had alfo done Rankin's Inlet, which was now found to be a clofe Bay ; and though other arguments, founded on the fuppofed courfe of the tides in Hudfon's Bay, appeared to be groundlefs ; fuch is our at- tachment to an opinion once adopted, that, even after the unfuccefsful iffue of the voyage of the Dobbs and Califor- nia, a paffage through fome other place in that Bay was, by many, confidered as attainable ; and, particularly, Chef- terfield's (formerly called Bowden's) Inlet, lying between latitude 63° and 64% fucceeded Wager's Strait, in the fan- guine expeftations of thofe who remained unconvinced by former difappointments. Mr. Ellis, who was on board the Dobbs, and who wrote the hiftory of the voyage, holds up this as one of the places where the pafllige may be fought for, upon very rational grounds, and with very good €ffe£is *. He alfo mentions Repulfe Bay, nearly in latitude 67° ; but as to this he fpeaks lefs confidently ; only faying, that by an attempt there, \ve might probably approach nearer to the difcovery +. He had good reafon for thus guarding his expreflion ; for the Committee, who direded this voyage, admitting the impradicability of effecfli ng a * Ellis's Voyage, p. 328. f Ibid. p. 330. f 2 paflage ■■;;! m 'i; jl! 'i ij ,1 xliv INTRODUCTION. paflhge at Repiilfe Bay, had refufed allowing the fliips to go into it, being j^Hhfied as to thai place *. Setting Repulfe Bay, therefore, afidc, within which wc have no reafon for believing that any inlet cxifts, there did not remain any part of Hudfon's Bay to be fearched, but Chefteriield's Inlet, and a fmall tradl of coaft between the latitude 62°, and what is called the South Point of Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and California. But this laft gleam of hope has now difappeared. The averfion of the Hudfon's Bay Company to contribute any thing to the difcovery of a North Well paffage, had been loudly reported by Mr. Dobbs ; and the Public feemed to be- lieve that the charge was well founded. But Hill, in juftice to them, it mull be allowed, that, in 1720, they had fent MefTrs. Knight and Barlow, in a Hoop on this very Ufco- very ; but thefe unfortunate people were never morr .. d of. Mr. Scroggs, who failed in fearch of them, i ,--2, only brought back proofs of their fhipwreck, but no frelh intelligence about a paffage, which he was alfo to look for. They alfo fent a floop, and a fluallop, to try for this difco- very, in 1737; but to no purpofe. If obftru6lions were thrown in the way of Captain Middleton, and of the Com- manders of the Dobbs and California, the Governor and Committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, fince that time, we mull acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow prejudices of their predeceffors ; and we have it in our power to a})peal to fads, which abundantly tcllify, that • Account of the Voyage, by the Ckrk of the California, Vol. ii. p. 273. Mr. Dobbs himlelf fiiys, Tliat he tba/^/.'t the p'ljpige would be improSlicabli'., or, at Icajf, very diffiiiui, in caji there was one farther North than 67°.— Account of Hudfon's Bay, p. 99. every INTRODUCTION. every thing has been done by them, that coiild be reqviired by the Pubhc, toward perfedling the fearch for a North Weft paflage. In the year 1761, Captain Chriftopher failed from Fort Churchill, in the Hoop Ch\irchill ; and his voyage was not quite fruitlefs ; for he failed up Chefterfield's Inlet, through which a paflage had, by Mr. Ellis's account of it, been fo generally expedled. But when the water turned brackifli, which marked that he was not in a ftrait, but in a river, he returned. To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered to repeat the voyage the enfuing fumnier, in the fame floop, and Mr. Norton, in a cutter, was appointed to attend him. By the favour of the Governor and Com- mittee of the Company, the Journals of Captain Chrifto- pher, and of Mr. Norton, and Captain Chriftopher's chart of the Inlet, have been readily communi* nted. From thefe authentic documents, it appears that the fearch and examination of Chefterfield's Inlet was now completed. It was found to end in a frefh water lake, at the diftance of about one hundred and feventy miles from the fea. This lake was found alfo to be about twenty-one leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be completely clofed up on every fide, except to the Weft, where there- was a little rivulet ; to furvey the ftate of which, Mr. Norton and the crew of the cutter having landed, and marched up the country, faw that it foon terminated in three falls^ one above another, and not water for a fmall boat over them ; and ridges, moftly dry from fide to fide, for five or fix miles hicrher. Thus ends Chefterfield's Inlet, and all Mr. Ellis's expciSla- tions of a paffage through it to the Weftcni Ocean. The other xlv J l xlvi INTRODUCTION. iii i ■im !■■•■ :U Other parts of the coaft, from latitude 62', to the South Point of Main, within which limits hopes were alfo entertained of findir'T a paflage, have, of late years, been thoioughly explored. It is here that Piftol Bay is fituated; which the author who has writ laft in this country, on the probability of a North Weft pajfage 'i-, fpeaks of as the only remaining part of Hudfon's Bay where this Weltern communication may exiit. But this has been alfo examined ; and, on the authority of Captain Chriftopher, we can afllire the Reader, that there is no inlet of any confequence in all that part of the coaft. Nay, he has, in an open boat, failed round the bottom of what is called Piftol Bay, and, inftead of a paf- fage to a Weftern Sea, found it does not run above three or four mUes inland. Befides thefe voyages by fea, which fatisfy us, that we muft not look for a paflage to the South of 67° of latitude ; we are indebted to the Hudfon's Bay Company, for a jouY- ney by land, which has thrown much additional light on this matter, by affording what may be called demonftra- tion, how much farther North, at leaft in fome part of their voyage, fliips muft hold their coux'fe, before they can pafs from one fide of America to the other. The Northern In- dians, who come down to the Company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge of our people, the exiftence of a river ; which, from copper abounding near it, had got the name of the Copper-mine River, We read much about this river in Mr. Dobbs's publications, and he confiders the Indian accounts of it as favourable to his fyftem. The Com- pany being delirous of examining the matter with precifion. ';:;il * Printed for " fearched for thi « Bay." P. 122 T ffrcys, in 1768. His words arc, "There ixmains then to be icovcry of a pafTage, the opti.inir called Piltol Bay, in Hudfon's inrtruclcd m '■}' , INTRODUCTION. inftnuSted their Governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to fend "a proper perfon to travel by land, under the efcort of forae trully Northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this famous river, to take an accurate furvey of its courfe, and to trace it to the fea, into which it empties itfelf. Mr. Hearne, a young gentleman in their fervice, who, having been an officer in the Navy, was well qaalified to make ob- fervations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make drawings of the country he fliould pafs through, and of the river which he was to examine, was appointed for this fervice. Accordingly, he fet out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill River, in latitude 58° 50', on the 7th of Decem- ber 1770 ; and the whole of his proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preferved in his written Journal. The publication of this would not be an unacceptable prefent to the world, as it draws a plain artlefs pidlure of the favage modes of life, the fcanty means of fubfiftence, and indeed of the fingular wretchednefs, in cv^ery refpedl, of the vari- ous tribes, who, without fixed habitations, pafs their mi- ferable lives, roving throughout the dreary deferts, and over the frozen lakes of the immenfe trait of continent through which Mr. Hearne pafled, and which he may be faid to have added to the geography of the globe. His ge- neral courfe was to the North Weft. In the month of June 1771, being then at a place called Conge cat ha wba Cbaga, he had, to \ife his own words, two good obfervations^ both by meridian and double altitudes, the mean of zvhich determines this place to be in latitude 68" 46' North, and, by account,, in longitude 24° 2' Wejl of Churchill River. On the 13th of July (having left Conge catha "joba Chaga on the ad, and travelling ftill to the Weft of North) he rcachc.l tlie I Copper- Xlvii mi xlviii INTRODUCTION. 5'' * I ,; Copper-mine River ; and was not a little fiirprized to find it differ fo much from the defcriptions given of it by the natives at the fort ; for, inftead of being likely to be navi- gable for a fliip, it is, at this part, fcarcely navigable for ail Indian canoe ^ three falls being in fight, at one view, and being choaked vp with flioals and llony ridges. Here Mr. Hearne began his fvu'vcy of the river. This he continued till he arrived at its mouth, near which his Northern Indians mafiacred twenty-one Efijuimaux, whom they furprized in their tents. We fiiall give Mr. llearne's account of his arrival at the fea, in his own v.ords : " After " the Indians had plundered the tents of the Efquimaux of " all the copper, Sec. they were then again ready to aflifi: *' me in making an end to the iVirvey ; the fea then in fight " from the North Weil by Weft to the North Eaft, diftant " about eight miles. It was then about five in the morning " of the 17th, when I again proceeded to furvey the river to " the mouth, ftill found, in every refpekSl, no ways likely, " or a pofllbility of being made naviga\)le, being full of " flioals and falls ; and, at the entrance, the river emptying " itfclf over a dry flat of the fiiore. For the tide was then " out, and feemed, by the edges of the ice. to flow about " twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach a little " within the river's mouth. That being the cafe, the wa- " ter in the river had not the leaft brackifli tafte. But I am " lure of its being the fea, or fome part thereof, by the *' quantity of wliale-bone and feal-fliins tbe Efquimaux had " at their tents ; as alio the number of feals which I law " upon the ice. The lea, at the river's mouth, was full " of illands and lioals, as far as I could fee, by the affift- •■' nnce of a poc ket tolefcope ; and the ice was not yet broken " up, only thawed away about three (piarters of a mile from ■M m ■-fi! INTRODUCTION. xlix 'Am HI « from the fhore, and a little way round the iflands and « flioals. « By the time I had completed this furvey, it was about " one in the morning of the i8th ; hut in thcle high la- '• titadcs, and this time of the year, the fun is always a « good height above the horizon. It then came on a thick. " drizzling rain, with a thick fog ; and, as finding the river " and fea, in every refpedt, not likely to be of any utility, " I did not think it worth while to Avait for fair weather, to " determine the latitude exadly by an obfervation. But, by " the extraordinary care I took in obferving the courfes " and diilances, walked from Congecathawhacbaga^ w^here " I had two good obfervations, the latitude may be de- " ]iended on, within twenty miles at fartheft." From the map which Mr. Hearne conftrutfted of the country through which he pafTed, in this fingtdar journey, and which we have been permitted to copy upon our gene- ral chart, it apjiears that the mouth of the Copper-mine River lies in the latitude 72°, and above 25" Weft longitude from the fort, from whence he took his departure *. The confequences refulting from this extenfive difcovery, are obvious. We now fee that the continent of North Ame- rica ftretches from Hudfon's Bay fo far to the North Weft, that Mr. Hearne had travelled near thirteen hundred miles before he arrived at the fea. His moft Weftern diftance from the coaft of Hudfon's Bay was near fix hundred * Mr. Hearne's journey, back from the Copper-mine River, to Fort Prince of Wales, iafted till June 30, 1772. From his firft fctting out till his return, he had employed near a year and fcven months. The .i.paralleled liardftiips he fiiffered, and the cfll-ntial fervicc he performed, met with a fuitable reward from his maftcrs, and he is wuw die (jo- vernor of I'ort i'riii.cc of Wales, where he was taken prifuner by the French 11. 1782; and lalV fummer returned to his ftation. Vol. I. miles ;iS'l INTRODUCTION. miles •■• ; and that his Indian guides were well apprized of a vaft tradt of continent llretthiiig farther on in that direc- tion, is certain from many circumftances mentioned in his Journal ; one of which, as, befides eltablifliing this fadl, it prefents us with a very ftriking pidture of favage life, has been tranfcribed in the following note f . What I I! * The Hudfou's Bay Company have a trading poft, called Hu.lfiii's Houf,-^ above five hundred miles up the country, in lat. 53° o' 32'^ and in long. 106" 27' 30''. f This day, Jan. 11, 1772, as the Indians were hunting, fome of them faw a ftrange fnow I10C track, which they followed, and at a confiderable diftancc came to a little hut, where they found a young woman fitting aloriC. They brought her to the tents ; and, on examining her, found that fhe was one of the Wcftern Do^-ribbed Indians, and had been taken prifoner by the Anithapcfcow Indians in the furnmer 1770 ; and when the In- dians, who took her prifoner, were near this part in the furnmer 1771, (he eloped from them, with an intent to return to her own country ; but it being fo far off, and, after being taken prifoner, having come the whole way in canoes, with the winding of rivers and lakes, (he had forgot the way ; and had been in this little hut ever fince the firft fetting in of the fall. By her account of the moons pad, fince her elopement, it appears to be the middle of laft July when fhe left the Arathapefcow Indians, and had not feen a hu- man face ever fince. She fupported herfelf very well by fiiaring of rabbits, partridges, and fquirrels, and was now in good health and flefh ; and, I think, as fine a woman, of a real Indian, as I have feen in any part of North America. She had nothing to make fiiares of but the finews of rabbits legs and feet, which flie twifted together for that pur- pofc ; and of the rabbits fkins had made hcrfclf a neat and warm winter's clothing. The ftock of materials fhe took with her, when (he eloped, confiilcd of about five inches of an iron hoop for a knife ; a ftone fteel, and other hard ftones as flints, together with other fire tackle, as tinder, &c. ; about an inch ajid half of the (hank of the flioeing of an ar- row, of iron, of which flie made an awl. She had not been long at the tents, when half a fcore of men wrelUed to fee who (hould have her for their wife. She lays, when the Arathapefcow Indians took her prifoner, that they ftole on the tents in the night, when the inhabitants were all adcep, and killed every foul except herfelf and three other young women. Her father, mother, and hulljand were in the fame tent with her, and they were all killed. Her child, of about five months old, (he took with her, wrapped in a bundle of her clothing, undifcovercd, in the night. Hut when arrived at tlie place v/here the Ara- thapefcows had left their wives, which was not far of}', it being then day-breaic, thefe In- dian women immediately began to examine her bundle ; and having there found the child, took fe:"l,r!l| ¥1 •t INTRODUCTION. What is now, for the firft time, authentically laid before the Public, with regard to the difcoverics made by the Hudfon's Bay Company, was well known to the noble Lord who prefuled at the board of Admiralty, when this voyage was undertaken ; and the intimate connexion of thofe dif- coverics with the Plan of the Voyage, of courfe, regulated the inftrudlions given to Captain Cook. And now, may we not take it upon \is to appeal to every candid and capable inquirer, whether that part of the in- lh-u6lions which directed the Captain not to lofe time, in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account y till he got into the latitude of 65°, was not framed judicioully; as there were fuch indubitable proofs that no palTage ex- irted fo far to the South as any part of Hudfon's Bay, and that, if a paffage could be effedled at all, part of it, at leaft, muft be traverfed by the fliips as far to the North- ward as the latitude 72°, where Mr. Hearne arrived at the fea ? We may add, as a farther confideration in fupport of this article of the Inftru(Slions, that Beering's Afiatic difcoveries, in 1728, having traced that continent to the latitude of 67% Captain Cook's approach toward that latitude was to be wiflied for, that he might be enabled to bring back more took it from her and killed it immediately. The relation of this fhocking fcene only ferved the favages of my gang for laughter. Her country isfofar to the TViJiiuard, that (he fays (he never faw any iron, or other kind of metal, till taken prifoner ; thofe of her tribe making their hatchets and chifels of deers horns, and knives of ftone and bone ; tlieir ar- rows are (hod with a kind of (late, bones, and deers horns ; and tlicir inftrumcnts, to niiJcc their wood work, are nothing but beavers teeth. They have frequently heard of the ufc- ful materials the nations to the Eafb of them are fupplied with from the KngIKh ; but, in(\ead of drawing nearer to be in the way of trading for iron work, &c. are obliged to retreat farther back, to avoid the Arathapefcow Indians, as they make furprizing flaugliter amongft them every year, both winter and uunmer. Hearne's.MS, Journal, g 2 autkcutic li m I N T U O D U G T I O N. "'■n^ y r I' authentic information than the world had hitherto ob- tained, about the relative lltuation and vicinity of the two continents, which was abfolutely netcH'ary to be known, bct\)re the pradlicability of failini»; between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, in any Northern ilire<5tion, could be afcer- tained. After all, that fearch, in a lower latitutle, which they who i^ivc crctlit (if any I'uch there now be) to the pretended tlifcoveries of de Fonte, aft'ein; to wilh had been recommend- ed to Captain Cook, has (if t)iat will cure them of their tredvdity) been iatisfadlorily matle. The Spaniards, roufed from their kthaigy by om* voyav^es, and having- caught a fpark of enteriirize from our repeated vilits to the Pacific Ocean, have followed us more than once into the line of our difco\XTies within the Southern tropic ; and have alfo fitted out expeditions to explore the American continent to the North of California. It is to be lamented, that there llioukl be any reafons why the tranfaiitions of thole Spanilh voyages have not been fidly difcloled, with the lame liberal fpirit of information which other nations have adopted. But, for- tunately, this exceflive caution of tlie court of Spaiii has been defeated, at leall in one inftance, by the publication of an authentic Joiunal of their lail voyage of difcovery upon the coall of America, in 1775, for which the world is in- debted to the Honourable Mr. Daincs Barrington. This j)id:)lication, which conveys fome information of real con- fequence to geography, and has therefore been referred to more than once in the follow ing work, is particularly va- luable in this refpedt, that fome parts of the coafl which Captain (]ook, in his progrefs Northward, was prevented, by unfaNourable w inds, from approaching, were feen and examined by the Spanilh fliips who preceded him; and I the :l 111^ *t» i i INTRODUCTION. tlic pcrufal of the following extradl from their Journal, may be rccommemlcd to thofc (if any fuch there be) who would reprcfcnt it as an imperfe^Slion in Captain Cook's voyage, that he had not an opiK)rtunity of examining the coalt of America, in the latitude afligned to the difcoverie* of Admiral Fontc. " We now attempted to find out the " Itraits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not dif- " covered the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, through which " he is faid to have failed. ' With this intent, we fearched " every bay and recefs of the coaft, and failed round every " headland, lying to in the night, that we might not lofe " fight of this entrance, ylfter thefe pains takeny and being " favoured by a ^oilb IVeJl ivind^ it may be pronounced that " no Jucb Jlraits are to be found '''= ."^ In this Journal, the Spaniards boaft of " having reached " fo high a latitude as 58% beyond what any other naviga- " tors had been able to efleifl in thofe feas +." Without diminifliing the merit of their performance, we may be permitted to fay that it will appear very inconliderable, in- deed, in comparifon of what Captain Cook effedted, in the voyage of which an account is given in thefe volumes. Be- fides exploring the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which Kerguelen, in two voyages, had been able to obtain but a very imperfc(Sl knowledge ; adding alfo many confiderable accelfions to the geography of the Friendly Iflands ; and difcovering the noble group, now called Sandwich Iflands, in the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, c which not * Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle, in Mr. Barring- ton b MifccUaiiies, p. 508. t Ibid. p. 507. We learn from Maurelic's Journal that another voyage had been foinc time before performed upon the coaft of America ; but tlie utmolt Northern progrefs gf it was to latitude 55°. the liii "m \0 i ft .'i liT 1 N T U O D U C r I O N. the fainteft trace can be met Avith in the account of any former voyage; helulcs thefe preliminary dilcoveries, the Reader of the followini^ work will (ind, that in one fum- mer, our En^lifli Navigator difcovered a much larger pro- portion of the North Welt coaft of y\merica than the Spa- niards, though fettled in the neighbourhood, had, in all their attempts, for above two hundred years, been able to do ; That he has put it beyond all doubt that Beering and Tfcherikort' had really difcovered the continent of America in .1741, and has alio ertabliflied the prolongation of that continent Wcihvard oppofite Kamtfchatka, which fpecula- tive writers, \\eddcd to favourite fyftems, had afFecfted fo much to dilbclieve ■', and which, though admitted by Mul- ler, had, lince he wrote, been confidered as difproved by later Ruffian difcoveries + ; That, belides afcertaining the true pofition of the Weltern coalls of America, with fomc inconfiderable interruptions, from latitude 44° up to beyond the latitude 70°, he has alfo afcertained the pofition of the North Eallcrn extremity of Aiia, by confirming Beering's difcoveries in 1728, and adding extenfive acceffions of his own ; That he has given us more authentic information concerning the illands lying between tlie two tx)ntinents, than the Kamtfchatka traders, ever fincc Beering firft taught M li I' i i • Dr. Campbell, fpeaWng of Beering's voyage in 1741, fays, " Nothing can be plainer " than tiiis truth, that his dil'covery docs not warrant any fuch fuppofition, as that tlie ■*' country he touched at was a great continent making part of North America." t See Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 26, 27, &c. The fidlions of fpcculative geo- graphers in the Southern hemifpherc, have been continents ; in the Northern hemifphere, they have been feas. It may be obferved, therefore, that if Captain Cook in his firll voyages annihilated imaginary Southern lands, he has made amends for the havock, in his third voyage, by annihilating imaginary Northern feas, and filling up tlie vaft fpace, •which had been allotted to them, with the folid contents of his new difcoveries of Ame- /ican land farther Weft and North than had hitlierto been traced. them if INTRODUCTION. U them to venture on this fea, had been able to procure *; That, by fixii\i^ the relative fituation of Afia and America, and (Ufcoverinir the narrow bounds of the ftrait that divides them, he has thrown a blaze of light upon this important part of the geography of the globe, and folved the puzzling problem about the peopling of America, by tribes deilitute of the neceiFary means to attempt long navigations ; and, laftly. That, though the principal obje(5t of the voyage fail- ed, the world will be greatly benefited even by the faib.irc, as it has brought us to the knowledge of the exiftence of the impe Hments, which future navigators may expedt to meet with in attempi ing to go to the Eaft Indies through Bcering's ftrait. The ex( nded review we have taken of the preceding voyages, and the general < 'itline we have fketched out, of the tranfadlions of the >a% which are recorded at full length in thefe volumes, will not, It is hoped, be confidered as a prolix or wuicj eflary detail. It will ferve to give a juft notion of the whole plan of difcovery executed by his Majefty's commands. And it appearing that much was aimed at, and much accompliflied, in the unknown parts of the globe, in both hemiipheres, there needs no other * l^hc Ruffians feem to owe much to England, in matters of this fort. It is fingular enough that one of our countrymen, Dr. Campbell [See his edition of Harris's voyages. Vol. ii. p. I02I.J has prefcrvcd many valuable particulars of Beering's .firft voyage, of which Muller himfclf, the Hiftorian of their earlier difcoveries, makes no mention ; that it fhould be another of our countrymen, Mr. Coxe, who firft publiftied a fatisfa£tory ac- count of their later difcoveries ; and that the King of Great Britain's fliips fhould tra- vcrfe tl , ;SV«<; in 1778, to confirm to the Ruffian empire the pofleffion of near thirty degree, -<; : .bovc fix hundred miles, of continent, which Mr. Engel, in his zeal for the practicability of a North Eaft pafTage, would prune away from the length of Afia to the Ealtward. See his Mcnwires Gfographir/ui's, &c. Laufanne 1765 ; which, however, con- truis much real information ; and many parts of which are confirmed by Captain Cook's American difcoveries. confuleration, tf'l % IVi INTRODUCTION. confulcration, to give full fatisfacflion to thofe who poffels an enlarged way of thinking, that a variety of ufefnl pur- pofes mult have been eft'eded by thefe relearches. But there are others, no doubt, m ho, too diffident of their own abilities, or too indolent to exert them, would wifli to have their reflections aililtcd, by pointing out what thofe ufeful purpofes are. F'or the Icrvice of fuch, the following enu- meration of particulars is entered upon. And if there Ihould be any, who aifedt to imdervahie the plan or the execution "f our voyages, what lliall now be offered, if it do not convince them, may, at leaft, check the influence of their unfavourable dccillon. I. It may be fairly confidercd, as one great advantage accruing to the world from our late fvu^veys of the globe, that they have confuted fancifid theories, too likely to give hirth to impradticable iindcrtakings. After Captain Cook's peii'evering and fruitlcfs traveries through every corner of the Southern hemifphcre, who, for the future, will pay any attention to the ingenious reveries of Campbell, de Broffes, and dc Euifon ? or hope to eltablifli an intercourfe with fuch a continent as Maujicituis's fruitful imagination had pi6tured ? A continent equal, at leaif , in ex- tent, to all the civilized countries in the known Northern hemifphcre, where new men, new animals, new inoduClions of every kind, might be brought forward to our view, and difcoveries be made, which wo\ild open inexhaidtiblc trea- fiu'cs of commerce ■. We can now boldly take it upon us * Sec Maupcrtuis's Letter to the King of Pruflia. The author of the Preliminary Difcourfe "o Bougainville's I'jyagt' uux Ijla ALilcuiius, computes that the Southern co]i- tinent (for the exillence of which, he owns, we muft depend more on the conjc£lurcs of philofophers, than on the tcftimony of voyagers) contains eight or ten millions of fquarc leagues. to ^ to INTRODUCTION. to difcourage all expeditions, formed on fuch reafonings of fpeculative philofophers, into a quarter of the globe, where our perfevering Englilh navigator, inftead of this promifed fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks, fcarcely affording flicker to penguins and feals ; and dreary feas, and mountains of ice, occupying the immenfe fpace allotted to imaginary paradifes, and the only treafures there to be difcovered, to reward the toil, and to compenfate the dangers of the unavailing fearch. Or, if we carry our reflections into the Northern hemi- fphere, could Mr. Dobbs have made a Angle convert, much lefs could he have been the fuccefsful folicitor of two dif- ferent expeditions, and have met with encouragement from the legiflature, with regard to his favourite paflage through Hudfon's Bay, if Captain Chriftopher had previoufly ex- plored its coafts, and if Mr. Hearne had walked over the im- menfe continent behind it ? Whether, after Captain Cook's and Captain Gierke's difcoveries on the Weft fide of Ame- rica, and their report of the ftate of Bearing's Strait, there can t>e fuflicient encouragement to make future attempts to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in any Northern direc- tion, is a queftion, for the depifion of which the Public will be indebted to this work. 2. Bat our voyages will benefit the world, not only by diftouraging future unprofitable fearches, but alfo by lef- fening the dangers and diftrefles formerly experienced in thofe feas, which arc within the line of commerce and na- vigation, now adually fubfifting. In how many inftances have the millakes of former navigators, in fixing the true fituations of important places, been redlified ? What accef- fion to the variation chart ? How many nautical obferva- tions have been colleded, and are now ready to be confulted. Vol. I. h in Ivii .y^i Iviii INTRODUCTION. ■,r'-!|| I .) i ■fli m in dire\i;c, with regard ^ aii * Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. j . 92, h 2 objea: lix -Jl' ,ll' ' ' 111 i Ix INTRODUCTION. obje(5l which cannot but deferve the attention of enlight- ened man. To exert our faculties in devifing ingenious modes of fatisfying ourfelves about the magnitude and diftance of the fun ; to extend our acquaintance with the fyftem to which that luminary is the common centre, by tracing the revolutions of a new planet, or the appearance of a new comet ; to carry our bold refcarches through all the immenfity of fpace, where world beyond world rifes to the view of the aftoniflied obferver; thefe are employ- ments which none b\it thofe incapable of purfuing them can depreciate, and which every one capable of purfuing them muft delight in, as a dignified exercife of the powers of tjie human mind. But while we diredt our ftudies to diftant worlds, which, after all our exertions, we muft content ourfelves with having barely difcc^vered to exift, it would be a ftrange negleuv^'. jui ;.': wi I * Ml. Green, in the Eiiuvuvour ; MelTrs. Wales and Bayly, In the Rcfolutiorv and Adventure ; Mr. Bayly, a lecond time, jointly with Captains Cook arJ King in tiiis voyage ; and Mr. Lyons, who accomi'iinied Lord Mulgravc. 'I'he obfervations of MefTrs. Wales and Bayly, dining Captain Cook's rccond voyage, are already in the hands of the i iiblic, by rhe f. cur uf the Board of Longitude ; and thofe of Captains Cook and King, and Mr. Ba\ly, during this !;Jl, will appear immediately after our i'ubli- catiori. " mcnt5- I N T R O D U C T I O N. Ixiii ■> K " ments and obfervers, which deferved the name, were " very rare ; and lb late as the year 1770, it was thotight " neceirary, in the appendix to Mayer's TaOles^ puhlifhed by " the Board of Longitude, to ftate fadls, in contradidlion to " the airertions of fo celebrated an aftronomer as the Abbe *' de la Caille, that the altitude of the fun at noon, the *' ealieft and moll fimple^ of all obfervations, could not be *' taken with certainty to a lefs quantity than five,- fix, " leven, or even eight minutes *. But thole who will give " themfelves the trouble to look into the ajtronomical ob" " fer-jations, made in Captain Cook's laft voyage, will find, " that there were few, even of the petty officers, who " could not obferve the diftance of the m(jon from the " fun, or a ftar, the moll delicate of all obfervations, with " fuflicient acciviacy. It may be added, that the method " of making and computing obfervations for finding the " variation of the compals, is better known, and more fre- " quently pra(5liled by thofe who have been on thefc voy- " ages, than by moll others. Nor is there, perhaps, a per- " Ion who ranks as an officer, and has been concerned in * The Abbe's words arc, " Si ceux qui promettent une fi grandc precifion d;ins ces " fortes de mcthodes, avoient navigue quclque temps, ils auroient vu fouveilt, que dans « I'obfervation la plus fimple de toutes, qui eft celle de la hauteur dii foleil a midi, deux " (>l)fcn'ations, munis de bons quartiers de reflexion, bicn redVifies, different entr'eux, " lorfqu'ils obfervent chacun a part, de 5', b', f, & W" Ephcmcr. 1755 — 1765. ItitroduStkn., p. 32. It muft be, however, mentioned, injufticetoM.de la Cailir, that he attempted to introduce the lunar method of difcovering the longitude, and propofcd a plan of calcula- tions of the moon's diftance from the fun and fixed ftars ; but through the impcifection of his inftruments, his fuccefs was much lefs than that method was capable of afford- ing. The bringing it into general ufe was refcrvcd for Dr. Malkelyne, our Aftronomer Royal. Sec the preface to the Tubles for correcting the Ef.ih of R.faaion and Parallax, publiihed by the Board of Longitude, under the Dircdtion of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian TrofciTor of Aftionomy and Experimental I'hilofophy at Cambridge, in 1772. " them. "rrn-^jj Ixiv INTRODUCTION. <' them, who would not, whatever his real fkill may be, feel " afliamecl to have it thought that he did not know how to " obferve for, and compute the time at fea ; though, but ** a Ihort while before thefe voyages were fet on foot, fuch ** a thing was fcarcely ever heard of amongrt Teamen ; and *' even firll-rate artronomcrs doubted the pofTibility of do- " ing it with fufficient exadnels '■'•. ** The number of places, at which the rife and times of ** flowing of tides have been obferved, in thefe voyages, " is very great ; and hence an important article of ufeful " knowledge is afforded. In thefe obfervations, fome very ** curious and even unexpedled circumftances have offered ,j.i • In addition to Mr. Wales's Remark, it may be obferved, that the proficiency of our navfei officers in taking obfervations at fea, inuft ultimately be attributed to the great at- tention paid to this iiTiportant objciS by the Board of Longitude at home j liberal rewards having been given to mathematicians for perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating cal- culations ; and to artifts for conftruifting more accurate inftruments for obferving, and watches better adapted to keeping time at fea. It appears, therefore, that the voyages of difcovery, aiid the operation.^ of the board of longitude went hand in hand ; and they muft be combined, in order to form a juft eftimate of the extent of the plan carried into execu- tion fijice his Majelly's acccnion, for improving aftronomy and navigation. But, bcfides the cftablifhmcnt of the Board of Longitude on its prefent footing, which has had fuch important confequences, it muft alfo be ever acknowleuged, that his prefent Majefty has extended his royal patron.\gc to every branch of the liberal arts and ufeful fcience. The munificent prefent to the Royal Society for defraying the expcnce of obll-rving the tranfit of Venus ; — the inftitution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture ;— the magnificent apartments allotted to 'nj Royal and Antiquary Societies, and to the Royal Academy, at Somerfet Place ; — the fupport of the Garden of Exotics at Kew, to improve which, Mr. MafTon was fent to the extremities of Africa ; — the y«//7^/«/;W encouragement afforded to learned men and learned works, in various departments j and particularly, that afforded to Mr. Hcrichcll, which has enabled him to devote himfelf entirely to the im- provement of aftronomy ; thefe, and many other inftances which might be enumerated, would have '/reatlv Jifti;iguifhc-d his Majcfly's reign, even if he had not been tlie patron of ti'.ofe fuccgfji'ul ulf.mpts to peifcil geography and navigation by fo many voyages of difco- very. " thein- % T 1 ■ :M INTRODUCTION. " themfelves to our confideration. It will be fufficient to " inrtance the exceedingly fmall height to which the tide " rifes, in the middle of the great Pacific Ocean ; where it " falls Ihort, two-thirds at leaft, of what might have been " cxpeded from theory and calculation. " The dire<5tion and force of currents at fea, make alfo «* an important objedl. Thefe voyages will be found to *< contain much xileful information on this head; as well *' relating to feas nearer home, and which, in confequence, " are navigated every day, as to thofe which are more re- " mote, but where, notwithftanding, the knowledge of " thefe things may be of great fervice to thofe who are ** dertined to navigate them hereafter. To this head alfo " we may refer the great number of experiments which " have been made for inquiring into the depth of the fea, " its temperature, and faltnefs at different depths, and in a " variety of places and climates. " An extenlive found:\don has alfo been laid for improve- " ments in magnetifm, for difcovering the caufe and nature " of the polarity of tho needle, and a theory of its varia- *' fiDns, by the number nnd variety of the obfervations and " experiments which have L.-C' • made, both on the variation '■'■ and dip, in almoll all parto of ihc world. Experimentr. alfo " have been made, in confequence of the late voyages, on " the effedls of gravity, in different and very diltant placi "=' which may ferve to increafe our rtock of natural knov/ " ledge. From the fame fource of information wc have " learned, that the phaenomenon, ufually called the aurora « borcalis, is not peculiar to high Northern latitudes, but " belongs, equally, to all cold climates, whether they be •' North or South. " But, jierhaps, no part of knowledge has been fo great Ixv Vol. 1. (( a gainer Ixvi INTRODUCTION. ^ "t| •I'l ■l-J " a gainer by the late voyages, as that of botany. We are « told ■•= that, at kail, twelve hundred new plants have '' been added to the known 1/ftem; and that very confi- " d'jrablc additions have been made to every other branch " of natural hiftory, by the great fkill and induftry of Sir " Jofuph Banks, and the other gentlemen + who have ac- " companied Captain Cook for that purpofe." To our naval officers in general, or to their learned af- foiiu'.cs 111 iiie expeditions, all the foregoing improvements of knowledge may be traced ; but there is one very lingular improvement indeed, ftill behind, for "hich, as we are folely indebted to Captain Cook, let us ftate it in his own words : " Whatever may be the public judgment about ♦* other matters, it is with real fatisfa<5lion, and without " claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, " that I can conclude this account with an obfervation, " which fadts enable me to make, that our having dif- " covered the poffibility of preferving health amongft a " numerous fhip's compare, for fuch a length of time, in " fuch varieties of climate, and amidlt fuel: continued hard- " fliips and fatigues, will make this voyage' remarkable, in " the opinio'i of every benevolent perfon, when the dif- »' putes abouv a Southern continent fhall ha\ c ceafcd to en- " gage the attention, and to divide the judgment of i)hilo- '* fophers X" * See Dr. Shepherd's Preface, as above. t Dr. Solander, Dr. Forfter and hi? foil, and Dr. Sparman. Dr. Forfter has given us a fpecimen of the botanical difcoveries of his voyage in tlie Cljtiraf.Ures Gencri'm Pkin- tarutn, &c. and much curious philofuphical matter is contained in his OhjerviiUons made in a yoyiige round the jyorld. ])•■. Sparman alio, on his return to Sweden, favoured us with a publication, in which lie cxpatiaf-s on the advantages accruing to natural hiftory, to aftrononiy, geography, general phyfics, and navigation, from our South Sea voyages. t Cook's Voy.igc, Vol. ii. p. 293, I 5. But ' ■H m M m But I N T 11 O D U (J T 1 O N. 5. But while our late voyages have opened fo many chan- nels to an increafc of knowledge in the leveral articles al- ready enumerated ; while they have extended our acquaint- ance with the contents of the globe ; while they have faci- litated old tracks, and have opened new ones for com- merce ; while they have been the means of improving the fkill of the navigator, and the fclence of the aftronomer ; while they have procured to us fo valuable acceHions in the feveral departments of natural hiftory, and fvirnifhed fuch opportunities of teaching us how to preferve the healths and lives of feamen, let us not forget another very impor- tant objedt of ftudy, for which they have afforded to the ipecidative philofopher ample material ; : I mean the Ihidy of human nature in various fituations, equally interefting' as they are uncommon. However remote or fecluded from frequent intercourfe with more polifhed nations, the inhabitants of any parts of tlic world be, if hiftory or our own obfervation fhould make it evident that they have been formerly vifited, and that foreign manners and opinions, and languages, have been blended with their own, little ufe can be made of what is obit rved amongft fuch people, toward drawing a real pic- ture of man in his natural uncultivated ftate. This feems to be the fituation of the inhabitants of moft of the iilands that lie contiguous to the continent of Afia, and of whofe manners and inltitutions the Europeans, who occafionally vifit them, have frequently given us accounts. But the iflands which our enterprizing difcoverers vifited in the centre of the Smth Pacific Ocean, and are, indeed, the prin- cipal fccnes of their operations, were imtrodden ground. The inhabitants, as far as could be obferved, were unmixed with any different tribe, by occafional intercourfe, fubfe- i 2 quent Ixvii Ixviii INTRO iJUCTION. '■"• 'tti i!l "A ^ lilt i 11 ^ ''' • i ! « qucnt to their oni^inal rcttlemeiu there ; left entirely to their own jw)\vers for every iut of life; and to their own re- mote traditions for every jxilitical or religions ciiftom or in- lUtution ; iininfornKd by fcience; unimproved by educa- tion ; in fliort, a fit foil from whence a c arefid obili ver could coUcdl t\i£ts for forming a jndgment, how far unaf- lilled human nature will be apt to degenerate ; and in what refpedts it can ever be able to excel. Who could have thought, that the brvital ferocity of feeding upon human flclh, and the horrid fuperllition of ofFermg human facrifices, fliould be found to exilt amongll the natives lately difcovercd in the Pacific Ocean, who, in other rcfpcifls, appear to be my llrangers to the fine feelings of humanity, to have arrived at a certain llagc of focial life, and to be habituated to fub- ordination and government, which tend fo naturally to re- prefs the ebullitions of wihl pallion, and expand the latent powers of the underftanding ? Or, if we turn from this melancholy pidurc, which will fuggell copious matter for philofophical fpeculation, can we, without allonifiiment, obferve to w hat a degree of per- fection the fame tribe (and indeed we may here join, in fome of thofe inftances, the American tribes vifited in the courfe of the prefent voyage) have carried their favourite amufements, the plaintive fongs of their women, their dra- matic entertainments, their dances, their Olympian games, as we may call them ; the orations of their Chiefs ; the chants of their priefts ; the folemnity of their religious pro- cefiions ; their arts and manufatflurcs ; their ingenious con- trivances to fupply the want of proper materials, and of effec- tive tools and machines ; and the wonderful produflions of their perfevering labour under a complication of difadvan- tp.ges ; their cloth and their mats ; thek weapons ; their fifli- •''/' 5 INTRODUCTION. Ixix 'i ing-inftrumcnts ; their ornaments ; their uttnfils ; which in tlefi'jin and in execution, may vie with whatever modern Europe, or claHical anticjuity tan exhibit ? It is a favourite Ihuly with the fcholar to trace the re- mains of CJrecian or Roman workmanlhip ; he turns over liis Montfaucon with learned fatisfaition ; and he gazes with rapture on the noble collctStion of Sir William Hamil- ton. The amiifement is rational and inftrudtive. But will not his curiolity be more awakened, will he not find even more real matter for important reflection, by palling an hour in furveyin^j, the numerous fpecimens of the inge- nuity of our newly-dilcovcrcd friends, brought from the utmort rcceffes of the globe, to enrich the Britifh Mufeum, and the valuable repofitory of Sir Afliton Lever ? If the curiofities of Sir Afhton's Sandwich-room alone, were the only accjuiiltion gained by our vifits to the Pacific Ocean, who that has tafte to admire, or even eyes to behold, could hefitate to pronounce, that Captain Cook had not failed in vain ? The expence of his three voyages did not, per- haps, far exceed that of digging out the buried contents of Herculancum. And we may add, that the novelties of the Society or Sandwich Iflands, feem better calculated to engage the attention of the lludi is in our times, than the antiquities^ which exhibit pr " Roman magni- ficence. The grounds for making thi i ,ilv cannot be better explained, than in the words of ;. !\ -igenious writer: »' In an age (lays Mr. Warton *), ad aa^ed to the highett " degree of refinement, that fpecies of curiofity com- " menccs, \/hich is bufied in contemplating the progrefs " of fecial life, in diipla ying the gradation of fcicnce,' and • Preface to hi-, Hiftory of Englifh Poetry. in « "Ms ii jiF :|: \%i ■ '?i l> li !l; ^ L k I'? 'I P^*i: :v If i( (( \KK« INTRODUCTION. " in tracing the tranlition from barbarifm to civility. " That thefe fpeculations fliould become the favourite to- " pics of fuch a period is extremely natuial. We look " back on the favage condition of our anceltors with the " triumph of fupcriority; and are plcafed to mark the ** fteps by which we have been raifed from rudenefs to " elegance ; and our refledtions on this fubje<5t are accom- " panied with a confcious pride, arifmg, in a great mea- ** fure, from a tacit comparifon of the infinite difpropor- tion between the feeble efforts of remote ages, and our prefent improvements in knowledge. In the mean time, ** the manners, monuments, cuftoms, pra<5tices, and opi- " nions of antiquity, by forming fo ftrong a contraft with ** thofe of our own times, and by exhibiting human na- ** ture and human inventions in new lights, in unexpected " appearances, and in various forms, are objef Kevclitu.'// ., goic rally the refult of ignorance, conceited of its pol- fcfling fiiperior knowledge. Obferve how thi. Author of Recherchcs Phibjcphiques fur la Amirkalm^ exprefles himfdf on this very point. " Cette diftance que Mr. Antermcny " veut trouvcr fi peu importantc, c(l .1- peu-prcs de hint cent I'uim Gauloifes au trovers d'un " ocean perilleiix, ct unpofTihle ;i franchir avcc dcs canots aufli clietifs et aufli fragiles que " le font, ail rapport d'Yfbrand Ides, les chaloupes des Tungufes," &c. &c. T. i. p. 1 1;6. Had this writer known that the two continents are not above thirteen leagues (inftcad of eight hundred) diftant from each other, and tliat, even in that narrow fpacc of fca, thsre arc intervening iflmids, he would not have ventured to urge tliis argvimcnt in ftppofition to Mr. Bell's notion of the quarter from whic'.i North America received its original inhabitants. k 2 failed Ixxr 1| i il '■i\ Tfl *-;■!■• Ixxvi INTRODUCTION. If' if' Mk. «• ;.jji ^i^ i ; ■|| '^•1 ■ iU if failed in vain. Other difcoveries of new countries have, in effetSl, been wars, or rather maffacres ; nations have been no fooner found out, than they have been extirpated ; and the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru can never be remembered, withoiii Mufhing for religion and human nature. But when th.. receflcs of the globe are inveftigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to pro- mote general knowledge ; when we vifit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as friends; and wilh only to learn that they exift, in order to bring them witliin the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfe<5t Hate of fociety, by communicating to them our fuperior attainments ; voyages of dillovery planned with fuch bene- volent views by George rhe Third, and executed by Cook, have not, we truft, totally failed in this refpedl. Our repeated vifits, and long-continued intercourfe with the natives of the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich lilands, cannot but have darted fome rays of light on the infant minds of thofe poor people. The uncommon objects they have thus had oppor- tunities of ol)ferving and admiring, will naturally tend to enlarge their ilock of ideas, and to fvu-niih new materials for the exercife of their reafon. Comparing tbcmfelves with their vifiters, they cannot but be ftruck with the deepell convidlion of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by the llrongeft motives, to ftrive to emerge from it, and to rife nearer to a level with thofe chil(hcn of the Sun who deigned to look upon them, and left behind fo many fpcci- mens of their generous and humane attention. The very introduction of our ufeful animals and vegetables, by add- ing frefli means of fubliltence, will have added to their com- forts of life, and immediate enjoyments ; and if this be the only benefit they are ever to receive, who will pronomicc that •.^ INTRODUCTION. that much has not been gained ? But may we not carry our willies and our hopes ftill farther ? Great Britain it- felf, when firft vilited by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by painted Savages, not, perhaps, bleffed with higher attain- ments than are poflelTed by the prefent natives of New Zea- land ; certainly lefs civilized than thofe of Tongataboo or Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourfe with them, is the firfl: ftep toward their improvement. Who knows, but that our late voyages may be the means appointed by Pro- vidence, of fprcading, in due time, the blellings of civi- lization amongft the numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean ; of abolifliing their horrid rcpalts and their horrid rites ; and of laying the foundation for future and more effedtual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable ftation amongft the nations of the earth ? This, at leaft, is certain, that our having, as it were, brought them into ex- iftence by our extenfive refearches, will fuggeft to us freili motives of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for hav- ing bleffed vis with advantages hitherto withheld from fo great a proportion of the liviman race; and will operate powerfully to incite us to pcrfevere in every feafible at- tempt, to be his inftruments in refcuing millions of fellow- creatures from their prefent ftatc of humiliation. Ixxvii The feveral topics, which occurred, as fuitable to this ge- neral Introdudion, being now difcuffed, nothing remains but to ftatc a few particulars, about which the reader of thefc volumes has a right to expcift fomc information. Captain Cook, knowing, before he failed upon this laft expedition, that it was expedled from him to relate^ as well as to execute^ its operations, had taken care to prepare fuch a journal as might be made uie of for publication. This journal, ) ; i IV ;l J Ixxviii INTRODUCTION. journal, which cxilh in his own hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare extradl from his log- books, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had not been inferted by him in the nautical rcgifter ; and it is iilfo enriched with confidcralilc communications from Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon of the Pefolution. The confeflcd abi- litiC: , and great afliduity, of Mr. AndcHon, in obfcrving every thing that related either to nat\iral hiilory, or to manners and language; and the delirc which, it is well known. Captain Cook, on all occafions, flicwed to have the affiftance of that gentleman, ilampcd a great value on his colledlions. That nothing, therefore, might be want- ing to convey to the Public the bell poflililc account of the tranfadlions of the voyage, his joun.al, by the order of Lord Sandwich, was alfo put into the hands of the Editor, who was authorized and tliredted to avail himielf of the information it might be *bund to contain, about matters imperfedtly touched, or altogether omitted, in Captain Cook's manufcript. This talk has been executed in fuch a manner, that the reader will fcarcely ever be at a lofs to diftinguifh in what inftances recourfe has been had to Mr. Anderfon. To preclude, if poflible, any miftakc, the copy of the firft and fecond volumes, before it went to the printer, was fubnMttcd to Captain King; and after it had been read over and c()rre<5led by one fo well qualified to point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodncfs to give it a perufal. As to the third volume, no- thing more need be laid, than that it was completely pre- paixxl for the prefs by Captain King himfelf. All that the Eiiitor ot the work has to anfwer for, are the notes oc- cafionally introduced in the courfe of the two volumes, contributed by Captain Cook ; and this introdudion, which was INTRODUCTION. was intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of dif- covery. He mult be permitted, however, to fay, that he confiders himfelf as intitled to no inconfidcrablc fhare of candid indulgence from the Public ; having engaged in a very tedious and troubleforae undertaking upon the moft dlftnterejled motives ; his only reward being the fatisfacftion he feels, in having been able to do an eflentiul fcrvicc to the family of our great navigator, who had honoured him, in the journal of this voyage, with the appellation of Friend, ':hey who have repeatedly afked why this piiblication has been fo long delayed, need only look at the volumes, and their attendant illuftrations and ornaments, to be fatisfied that it might, with at leaft equal reafon, be wondered at, tnat it has not been delayed longer. The journal of Captain Cook, from the firft moment that it came into the hands of the Editor, had been ready for the Prefs ; and Captain King had left with him his part of the narrative, fo long ago as his departure for the Weil Indies, when he commanded the Refiftance man of war. But much, befidcs, remained to be done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to be pi-ci)arcd by Mr. Roberts, who gives an account of his work in the note * ; the very nupioi'r>Ms and elegant drawings of ' ^h^ * Soon after our departure from England, I was inftrufled by Captain Cook to com- pki ■ ■• m;jp of tiie world as a y,eneral chart, from the beft materials he was in poireinon (V for that purpofe ; and before his death this bufmefs was in a great meafure accom- plifhed : That is, the grand outline of the whole was arranged, leaving only thofe parts vacant or unfinifhed, which he cxpefted to fall in with and explore. But on our return home, when the fruits of o'lr voyage were ordered by tlie Lords CommifTioners of the A dmiralty to be publilhed, the care of the general chart being configned to me, I was c retted to prepare it from the lateft and beft authorities ; and alfo to introduce Captain Cook's three fucceflive tracks, that all his difcoveries, and the different routes he had takjn, might appear together ; by this means to give a general idea of the whole. This tafk having been performed by me, it is neccllary, for the information of the Reader, to 3 flate Jxxix Vl IX'^X INTRODUCTIO 1/. 4 'i ( ,' II: Mr. Webber were to be rc'ucetl by him to the proper fize; artifts w ere next to be fomul out who would undertake to en^r?.vc ftatc the heads of the fcvcral authorities which I ha\c foIluwcJ in fuch parts of the chart as differ from what wa.s drawn up immediately under the infpe£lion of Captain Coolt : And when the J'ublic are made acquainted, that many material-., i\cccflary to complete and elucidate the work, were not, at the time, on board the Rcfolution, or in his poflef- fion, the rcafon will appear very obvious, why thefc alterations and additions were in- troduced contrary to the original drawing. Firft then, I have followed clofely the very excellent and corretfl charts of the Nortliern Atlantic Occ;ui, publifhed by Meilis, de Verdun de la Creiine, de iJorda, et I'ringre, in 1775 and 1776 ; which comprife the coaft of Norway from the Sud Hoek, in the lati- tude of 62 degrees North, to Trclleburg, Denmark, the coaft of Holland, North coafl of Great Britain, Orkneys, Shetland, Ferro Ifles, Iceland, coafts of ]■' ranee, Spain, and Portugal, to Cape St. .Maria on the coaft of Africa; including the Azores, Canaries, Cajie dc Verd, Antilles, and Weft India iflands from Barbadoes to the Eall end of Cuba ; the North part of Newfoundland and the Labradore coaft, as far as the latitude of 57 degrees North. Ireland, and part of the coaft of Scotland, is laid down from Mr. Mackenzie's late furvcys ; and the Ibuth coaft of England from a ch;u-t publiftied by Mr. Faden in 1780, taken fiom Mr. I'Abbe Dicquemare. The North part of the coaft of Labradore, from the latitude of 57° North, to Button's Iflands in the entrance of Hudfon's Strait, is t.iken from Monfieur Bellin's chart, as is alfo the North coaft of Norway and Lapland, including the \N'hitc Sea, Gulf of Bothnia, Baltic Sea, and the Eafl coaft of Greenland. The Gulf of Finland, from a large (MS) chart, now engraving for the ufe of tome private merchants. The Weft India iflands, from the Eaft end of Cuba to the Weft end, including Ja- maica and the Bahama iflands, are from a cliart publifhed in London by Sayer and Ben- nett, in 1779. The South fide of Cuba, from Point Gorda toCajK- de Cruz, is laid down from Mon- fieur Bellin, in 1762. The coafts of Newfoundland, and the (nilf of St. Laurence, from the furveys madu by Captain Cook, and Mefl'rs. Ciilbert and Lane. Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Ifland of St. John, River St, Laurence, Canada, and New England to the River Delaware, from J. F. \V. des Banes, Efq; in 1777 and 1778 ; and charts publiftied in France by order of the King, in 1780, intituled, Neptune Americo-Scptentrion:d, kc. And from thefe charts alio are taken tlie coalh of J'en- fyivania, Nev/ Jerfey, Maryland, Virginia, North and South Caroliiii;, Georgia, 1 afl aud INTRODUCTION. engrave them ; the prior enga,q;ements of thofe artifts were to be fulfilled before they could begin ; the labour and (kill to and \Veft Florida, as well as the interior parts of the country to the Eaft fide of Lake Ontario. Th other parts of this lake, as likewife Lakes Eria, Hurons, Michigan, and Superior, wriT ipied from Mr. Green's iniips of America : The Northern "of this lad-men- tioi kc is fixed from the allronomical obfervations made by «>■■.;;. , lludfon's Bay at Mifliippicottoii Houfe. "' ' • of Hudfon's Bay I took from a chart, compiled ■ Aii ?■ ;e/, from all the maps he could procure of thofe parts, with which I was favoured by Samuel '. R. S. and Governor of that Company, who alfo politely furniihcd mc with Ai. . .cariic's Journals, and the map of his route to the Copper-mine River, which is faithfully infertcd on the chart, together with the furvey of Cheflerfield Inlet madebyCap- t.iin Chriftopher and Mr. Mofes Norton, in 1762 ; and the difcovcriss from York Fort to Cumberland, and Hudfon Houfes (this laft is the moft VVefternfcttlement belonging to the Company), extending to Lake Winipeg, from the drafts of Mr. Philip Tumor, made ini778 and 1779, corrected by aftronomical obfervations. And from this lake, the difpo- fition of the other lakes to the Southward of it, and which communicate with it, is formed, and laid down from a map conftrudlcd by Mr. Spurrcl, in the Company's fervicc. The Albany and Moofc rivers to (Jlouccfter Houfe, and to Lake Abbitibbc and Superior, are alfo drawn from a map of Mr. Tumor's, adjufted by obfervations for the longitudes. The W'eft coaft of Greenland, is chiefly laid down from the obfervations made by Lieut. R. Picktrfgill in the Lion brig in 1776, which determine the line of the coall only, as the immcnfe quantities of ice choak up every bay ;uid inlet on this coall, which formerly were, in the fuinmer feafon, quite free and oiK;n. From the mouth of the Miflifippi River, including its fourcc, and the other rivers branching from it ; all the coaft of New Leon to Cape Rozo, and the Wcftern coaft of America, from Cajie Corrientcs to the Great Bay of Tccoantejiec, is taken from JMon- fieur D'Anville. The Gulf of California I have laid down from a German publication in 1773, put into my hands by Sir Jofeph Banks, Bart. P. R. S. ; and the Wcftern fide of it is brought to- gether from a Sp.inilh MS. cliart, with which A. Dalryinplc, Efq; F. R. S. obliged mc. The coaft of Brazil, from Sera to Cape Frio, is copied from a fmall chart of ihat piut by Mr. Dalrt'mple. For the Southern pait of Africa, from the Cape of Good Mope to Point Natal, I ha\c taken the authority of the chart of Major J. Renncls, F. R. S. fticwing the extent of the bank of LaguUus. For the exiftence of the fmall iflands, (hoais, and banks to the Ealb.vard of Madagafcar, together with the Archijielago of the Maldive and Laccidivc I (lands j for the coafts of Vol. I. 1 Malacca, Ixxx* I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .^ z 1.0 I.I 1.25 s !^ IIL I'o i|2.0 12.2 U III 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 1 .;f i.n [■ U' I ■ 1 i'^^' ^'^; 1 ■':»W Ixxxii INTRODUCTION. to be exerted in finifliing many of them, rendered this a tedious operation ; paper fit for printing them upon was to be procured from abroad ; and after all thefe various and unavoidable difficulties were furmounted, much time was neceflarily required for executing a numerous impreflipn of the long lilt of plates, with fo much care as might do juftice both to Mr. Weblxir, and to his feveral engravers. When all thefe circumftances are taken into confideration, we truft Malacca, part of Cambodia, and the Ifland Sumatra, I have ufed the lateft authority of Monfieur D'Apres de Manne\ illctte's publications in the Neptune Oriental. The coafts of Guzerat, Malabar, Coromandel, and the oppofite fhore, contaifiing the Great Bay of Bengal, and the llland of Ceylon, and exhibiting the Heads of the Ganges, and Barampooter or Sanpoo Rivers, are inferted from tlie work of the ingenious Author of the map of Hindooftan, publifhed in 1782. The China fea is laid down from the chart publifhed by Mr. DalrjTnple ; but the longi- tudes of Pulo Sapata, Pulo Condore, Pulo Timoan, Straits of Banca and Sunda, and the parts we faw, are as fettled by us, together with the Eaft coaft of Niphon, the principal of the Japancfe Iflands. The Jefo and Kurile iflands, the Eaft coaft of Afia and Kamtfchatka, as well as the fea of Okot(k, and the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and America that were not feen in the voyage, are taken from a Ruflian MS. chart, got by us at the Ifland of Oonalafhka. The Northern countries from Cape Kanin, near the White Sea, as far Eaft as the Ri- ver Lena, I have given from the Great Ruflian Map, publifhed at Peterfburg in 1776, including the Euxine, Cafpian, and Aral Seas, as alfo the principal lakes to the Eaftward ; the intent of which is to fhew the fource of the large rivers that empty themfelves into the different oceans and Teas. Every other part of the chart not mentioned in this account, is as originally placed by Captain Cook. The whole has been corrcfled from the lateft aftronomical obfcrvations, fcledled from the Tables compiled by Mr.William Wales, F. R. S. and mathematical mafter of Chrift's Hofpital, for the Nautical Almanacs ; From thofe in the Mariner's Guide by the Rev. Dr. Maflcelyne, F. R. S. and Aftronomer Royal, publiflied in 1763 ; From the ConnoIfEince des Temps for 1780 and 1781 ; From ProfefTor Mayer's Geographical Table; From the Voyages of MefTrs. d'Evcux de Fleurieu, Verdun, de Borda, and Chabet, &c. ; From the Table lately publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple for the ufe of the Eaft India fhips ; From the Philofophical Tranfaftions of the Royal Society ■ and firom the Obfervations of our late Navigators. HEN». ROBERTS. Shoreham, Sussex, May 18, 1784. that 'I INTRODUCTION. that we ftiall hear no more of the delay ; and only be grate- ful to that munificent Patron of Science, who not only di- redted the hiftory of the voyage to be publifhed ; but to be publifhed with fuch a fplendid train of ornaments, at the public expence, as will ftill add to the merit of having or- dered the voyage itfelf to be undertaken. (. . ' And here it feems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another inftance of munificent attention, that care has been taken to mark, in the moft fignificant manner, the juft fenfe entertained of the humane and liberal relief afforded to our fiiips in Kamtfchatka. Colonel Behm, the commandant of that province, has not been rewarded merely by the plea- fure which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting upon the blefl[ings it confers ; but has been thanked in a manner equally confiftent with the dignity of his own fovereign and of ours, to whofe fubjedts he extended protedlion. A magnificent piece of plate was prefented to him, with an infcription, worthy of a place in the fame book where the hiftory of his humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and which, while it does honour to our national gratitude, de- ferves alfo to be preferved as a monument of our national tal^.e for elegant compofition. It is as follows : Ixxxiii '1 1 1 1 'fVcW ViRO EGREGio MAGNO DE Behm ; qut, Imperatrtcis Augvf- tijfimce Catharine aufpiciis, fummaque animi benignitate, Java, qtiibus preeerat, Kamtfchatka Ihtora, navibus nautifquh Britannicis, ho/pita prabuit ; eofque, in term nis,Jt qui ejjent Imperio RuJJico,fruJlra explo- randis, mala multa perpejfos, iteratdvice excepit, refecit, recreavit, ct commeatu omni cumulate auSlos dimijit ; Rei navalisBritannic^ Septemviri in aliquam benevolentice tarn infignis memoriam, amicif- Jimo, gratijjimoque animo, fuo, patriaque nomine, D. D. D. MDCCLXXXI. 1 2 This m\ 1 p jj i '*' 'ii^' i r 1^1 rtN Ixxxiv INTRODUCTION. • This teftimony of public gratitude, reminds the Editor, that there are iimilar calls upon himfelf. He owes much to Captain King for his advice and direction, in a variety of inftances, where Captain Cook's Journal recjuired explana- tion ; for filling up feveral blanks with the proper longi- tude and latitVile; and for fupplying deficiencies in the tables of aftronomical obfervations. Lieutenant Roberts was alfo frequently confulted, and was always found to be a ready and effectual affiftant, when any nautical difiiculties were to be cleared up. But particular obligations are due to Mr. Wales, who, befides the valuable communications which have been adopted in this Introdudlion, feconded moft liberally the Editor's views of ferving Mrs. Cook, by cheerfully taking upon himfelf the whole trouble of digefting, from the log- books, the tables of the route of the lliips, which add fo greatly to the utility of this publication. Mr. Wegg, befides Iharing in the thanks fo juftly due to the committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, for their un- referved communications, was particularly obliging to the Editor, by giving him repeated opportunities of converfing Avith Governor Hearne, and Captain Chriftopher. The Honourable Mr. Daines "^rrington had the good- nefs to intereft himfelf. witi' ufual zeal for every work of public utility, in procuring fome neceflary in- formation, and fuggefting fome valuable liints which were adopted. ■« . It would be great injuftice not to exprefs our acknow- ledgments to Mr. Pennant, who, befides enriching the third volume with references to his Ar^iic Zoology^ the publica- tion of which will be an important acceflion to Natund Hiftory, alfo communicated fome very authentic and fatis- fadtory manuicript accounts of the Ruffian difcoveries. The if y\ 1 \-l ili r! introduction; The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Iflands, and of the natives of Nootka, had been furnilhed to Cap- tain Cook, by his moft ufeful aflociate in the^voyage, Mr. Anderfon; and a fourth, in which the language of the Efquimaux is compared with that of the Americans on the oppolite lide of the continent, had been prepared by the Captain himfelf. But the comparative Table of Numerals, which is marked N° 2. in the Appendix, was very obli- gingly drawn up, at the requeft of the Editor, by Mr. Bryant, who, in his ftudy, has followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and hiftorian, of every age, into every part of the globe. The Public will conlider this Table as a very ftriking illuftration of the wonderful mi- grations of a nation, about whom fo much additional in- formation has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to acknowledge it as a very ufeful communication. One more communication remains to be not only ac- knowledged, but to be inferted at the clofe of this Intro- diidion. The tejlimonies . of learned contemporaries, in commendation of a deceafed Author, are frequently dif- played in the front of his book. It is with the greateft propriety, therefore, that we prefix to this pofthumous work of Captain Cook the tejUmony of one of his own profeflion, not more diftinguilhed by the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wiflies to remain concealed, perhaps this allufion, for which we int^reat his indulgence, may have given too exadt direc- tion to the eyes of the Public where to look for fuch a character. Let us, however, reft fatisfied with the intrinfic merit of a compofition, conveyed under the injuncSlion of fecrecy ; and conclude our long preliminary diflertation w ith exprefling a wilh, or rather a well-grounded hope, that IXXKV m n texxvi INTRODUCTION. V,/ I r *!■ IfiM ,, 21 that this voUime may not be the only place where pofte- rity can meet with a monumental infcription, commemo- rative of a man, in recounting and applauding whofe fer- vices, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great Britain. T O I 4 1^ [ Ixxxvii 3 ( / , :"A}:tt ■ fy: ■ - - J . 1 , TO THE MEMORY OF Captain JAMES COOK, The ableft and moft renowned Navigator this or any country hath produced. JLTE rai/ed himfelf, folely by his merits from a very obfcure birtby to the rank of Pofl Captain in the royal navy, and was, unfortunately, killed by the Savages of the ijland Owbyhee, on the i^th of February 1779 ; -ivbicb ijland bs bad, not long before, difcovered, when profecuting hi: third voyage round the globe. He poffeffed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requifite for his profeffion and great undertakings ; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the befi men. Cool and deliberate in judging : fagacious in determining : aStive in executing : fleady and perfevering in enterprifing from vigilance and unremitting caution : unfubdued by labour, difficulties, and dif appointments : fertile in expedients : never wanting prefence of mind : always pojjejjing himfelf, and the full ufe of a found underflanding. Mild, jufi, but exaB in difcipline ; be was a father to his people, who zvere attached to him from affedfion, and obedient from confidence. His knowledge, his experience, hisfagacity, rendered bimfo entirely mafier of his fubjedt, that the greatefl obfiacles were furmounted, and the mofi dangerous navigations became eafy^ and almofi fafe, under bis diredlion. 10 He \ m :.r^ %< Ixxxviii INSCRIPTION TO THE ^ ■ f h. i- I' 'i He explored the Southern bemifphere to a much higher la- iitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal tbofe who navigate the coajls of this ijland. By his '■tnevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his Jbip's company, he dif covered and introduced a fyflem for the prefervation of the health of feamen in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his fecond voy- age round the world, which continued upwards of three years, be lofi only one man by dijlemper, of one hundred and eighteen, of which his company confjled. the death of this eminent and valuable man was a lofs to mankind in general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that refpe&s ufeful accomplijhments, that honours fci- ence, and loves the benevolent and amiable affediions of the heart. It is flill more to be deplored by this country, which tnayjuflly boafl of having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that forrozv is farther aggravated by the refleSlion, that his country zvas deprived of this orna- ment by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it ivas not deferved. For, actuated always by the mofi attentive care and tender com- pajjion for the fav ages in general, this excellent man was ever ajfiduoujly endeavouring, by kind treatment, to diffipate their fears, and court their friend/hip ; overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interpojing, at the hazard of his life, to protedl them from the fttdden refenttnent of his own injured people, The objtSl of his lafl mifp.on was to difcover and afcer- tain the boundaries of Afia and America, and to penetrate in- to the Northern Ocean by the North Eafi Cape of AJia. Traveller ! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great majler in his profejjion ; whofejkill and labours have en- larged MEMORY OF CAPTAIN COOK. Ixxxix targed natural pbilofopby ; have extended nautical fcienee ; and have difclofed the long-concealed and admirable arrange- ments of the Almighty in the formation of this globe., and., at the fame time., the arrogance of mortals ^ in prefuming to ac- count, by their fpeculations, for the laws by which he was pleafed to create it. It is now difcovered, beyond all doubly that the fame Great Being who created the univerfe by his fiat, by the fame ordained our earth to keep ajufl poife, with- out a correfponding Southern continent — and it does fo! " He " firetcbes out the North over the empty place, and hangetb ** the earth upon nothing.^'' Job, xxvi. 7. If the arduous but exaB refearches of this extraordinary man have not difcovered a new world, they have difcovered feas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us acquainted with ijlands, people and prc,du£iions, of which we had no conception. And if he has not been fo fortunate as Americus to give his name to a continent, his pretenjions to fuch a diflinSiion remain unrivalled; and he will be revered^ while there remains a page of his own modefl account of his voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers fball be in- flruBed, by his new map of the Southern hemifphere, to trace the various courfes and difcoveries he has made. If public fervices merit public acknowledgments ; if the man who adorned and raifed the fame of his country is deferving of honours, then Captain C( ■ f. deferves to have a monument raifed to bis memory, by a generous and grateful nation. Virtutis uberrimum alimentum eft honos, Val. Maximusj Lib. ii. Cap. 6. '1 . 1- i' I Vol. I. m LIST Ill ' . i , L' , E' T F' ' 'IV V • ! < • < . ■^ w C xci ] LIST OF THE PLATES, With Directions for placing them. [As many of the Purchafers of this Work may chodfe to prcfervc the largcr-fized Plates in a feparatc volume in folio, thefc have been here marked with AfterifltS; and Bookfellers are cautioned not to have them bound up, with 'he reft of the Plates, in the places of thefe volumes pointed out by the rc- fpedtive References, unlefs they receive particular diredlions for that purpofe.] V O L. I. Page Plate N' I *General Chart exhibiting Captain Cook's difcoveries - - - I. 51 Chart of Kerguelen's Land, with a fketch of Prince Edward's Iflands - - II. 61 Sketches of Chriftmas Harbour, and Port Pallifcr, in Kerguelen's Land - - III. 71 *View of Chriftmas Harbour in Kerguelen's Land - - - - IV. • 83 Views on the Coaft of Kerguelen's Land f LXXXII. 91 Chart and Views of Van Diemen's Land - V. 96 *A Man of Van Diemen's Land - VI. 101 *A Woman of Van Diemen's Land - VII. 1 09 * An Opoffum of Van Diemen's Land - VIII. t A few of the Plates art not numbered in the order in which they are to be placed ; but no inconvenience can enfue, as the references to the Pages of each Volume will remedy this unavoidable imperfei^ion. m 2 F^j V ' I:' / liff -■I ■■ ■ ^ I i i / jt xcii LIST OF THE PLATES. Page Plate N* 117 Plan of Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land - - - - IX. 157 ♦The Infide of a Hippah, in New Zealand X. 173 *A Man of Mangca - - _ XI. 225 Chart of the Friendly Iflands - - XII. 230 ♦View at Annamooka - - XIII. 144 ♦The Reception of Captain Cook in Hapaee XIV. 246 ♦A Boxing Match in Hapaee - - XV. 249 ♦A Night Dance by Men in Hapaee - XVI. 250 ♦A Night Dance by Women in Hapaee - XVII. 264 ♦Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands - XVIII. 277 Sketch of Tongataboo Harbour - - XIX. 312 ♦Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands, drinking Kava _ - . XX. 314 ♦A Fiatooka or Morai, in Tongataboo - XXI. 337 ♦The Natche, a Ceremony in honour of the King's Son, in Tongataboo - - XXII. 355 ♦A Woman of Eaoo or Eooa - - XXIII. VOL. II. 5 Sketches of Mangea, Vol. i. p. 170; — of Wateeoo, Vol. i. p. 180 j — of Wenofla ctte. Vol. i. p. 205 J — and of Toobouai - XXIV. 32 ♦A Human Sacrifice in a Afor<7;, in Otaheite XXV. 51 *A young Woman of Otaheite bringing a prcfent . - - - XXVII. 52 ♦The Body of Tee, a Chief, as preferved af- ter death, in Otaheite - - XXVI. 58 ♦A Dance, in Otaheite - - XXVIII. 69 ♦A young Woman of Otaheite, dancing - XXIX. 79 Sketch of two Harbours on the North fide ofEimeo - - - XXX. 205 2S« LIST OF THE PLATES. Page Plate N' 91 *A view of Huahcinc . - - XXXL 179 Chridmas Ifland - - - - XXXH. aoo 'A Moral in Atooi - - - XXXIII. 202 *The InQde of the Houfc in the Morai, in Atooi .... XXXIV. ♦An Inland View in Atooi - - - XXXV. Views on the Weft coaft of North America LXXXVI. 269 ♦Chart of the North Weft coaft of North America, and North Eaft coaft of Afia - XXXVI. 279 Sketch of Nootka Sound - - - XXXVII. 295 ♦A Sea Otter - - .- - XLIII. 301 ♦A Man of Nootka Sound - - - XXXVIII. 303 ♦A Woman of Nootka Sound - - XXXIX. 306 ♦Various Articles at Nootka Set. rd - - XL. 1. A bird, made of wood \ hollow, with ftonet in the infide, which the Natives fhake when they dance. 2. A Seal's head, made of wood, worn upon their heads. 3. A bird's head, compofed of wood and Tea* thers, alfo worn upon their heads. 4. Another for the fame purpole, and orna- mented with green talc. 313 ♦View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound XLI.' 317 ♦The Infide of a Houfc in Nootka Sound - XLII. 353 Chart of Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound - - - - XLIV. 361 ♦A view of Snug Corner Cove in Prince William's Sound - - - XLV. 367 ♦A Man of Prince William's Sound - - XLVI. 369 *A Woman of Prince William's Sound - XL VII. xcui '«F » V 1 ":' 4 •Si i .'i ■ jl' ■ I mtr. I *e*^ List Of tHE <»LATES. Page Plate N* 410 Views on the Weft coaft of North America, to the Weftward of Cook's River - - LXXXVII. 421 *AManof Oonalaflika - - - XLVIII. 422 *A Woman of Oonalalhka - - - XLIX, 423 *Canoes of Oonalafhka - - - L. 424 Sketch of Samganoodha Harbour at the IHand Oonalafhka . _ _ LV. 446 *The Tfchuktfchi, or Tfchutfki, and their Habitations - _ - - LI. 456 *Sea Horfes _ _ - _ LII. /^6o Chart of Norton Sound and Beering's Strait LIII. 470 Views on the coaft of Afia _ - _ LXXXIV. 483 *Inhabitants of Norton Sound, and their Habitations _ - - _ LIV. 509 *Caps of the Natives of Oonalafhka - - LVI. 5 1 1 *Natives of Oonalafhka, and their Habita- tions - - _ _ - LVII. 513 *The Infide of a Houfc in Oonalafhka - LVIII. 529 Views of the Sandwich Iflands -. .. . * LXXXIH. •lit VOL. 'U. in.^ 1: I Chart of the Sandwich Iflands, and View of Karakakooa Bay . . . 13 *An Offering before Captain Cook in the Sandwich Iflands 17 *Tereoboo or Terreeoboo, King of Owhyhee, bringing prefents to Captain Cook - - 27 *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, dancing - 54 * A View of Karakakooa in Owhyhee - 125 * A young Woman of the Sandwich Iflands - 3 LIX. - LX. LXI. LXII. LXVIII. LXIII. i M LIST PF THE PIRATES. Pagp Plate N* 1 26 *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, with his helmet . . _ - LXIV. 1 39 *A Canoe of the Sandwich Iflands, the Row- ers maflced - - - - LXV. 1 40 * A Man of the Sandwich Iflands in a maflc LXV.I. 151 *Various Articles at the Sandwich Iflands - LXVII. N" I. A wooden Inftrament or Weapon, fct round widi die teeth of Sharks, with which they cut up their prifoners. , . ' ; " ' .a. Another, for the fame purpofe. 3, A mufical Inftrument ; the upper part wicker- work, covered with feathers j the bottom part a gourd with ftones in it, which the dancer fhakes about. — See Plate LXII. 4. An Idol upon wicker-work, covered witli feathers ; the eyes mother of pearl, with a black nut j the mouth fet with teeth of dogs. 5, A Bracelet, compofed of the tuflcs of hogs. 6. A wooden Dagger called Pabooab. 184 Sketch of Awatflca Bay in Kamtfchatka - LXIX. 201 *A Man in Kamtfchatka tri^/elliiig in winter LXX. 202 *A Sledge in Kamtfchatka - - - LXXI. 215 *A View at Bolcheretflc or ijolcheretzkoi in Kamtfchatka LXXII. *A white Bear - . - . LXXIII. *A View of the Town and Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka - - LXXIV. Views on the coaft of Kamtfchatka - - LXXXV. *A Man of Kamtfchatka - - _ LXXV. *A Woman of Kamtfchatka - - - LXXVI. 373 *Summer and Winter Habitations in Kamt- fchatka LXXVII. Xcv 252 281 358 359 M 4 * 'I it Hi' 'I xcti LISTOFTHEPLATES. Page . Plate N* 375 *The Infide of a Winter Habitation in Kamtfchatka - - - - LXXVIII. 395 Chart of the Coaft of Japan - - LXXIX. 407 Sketch of Sulphur Ifland - - . - LXXX. 417 Sketch of the Typa and Macao - - LXXXI. ¥ [N. B. The longitude in thefc Volumes is reckoned from the meridian of Greenwich, and after paiHng it to the Baft, in the South Atlantic, is carried on Eafterly beyond the i8oth degree, to the utmoft extent of the voyage j and back, to the fame meridian.] I r . A VOYAGE I' ) VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK I. TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL OUR DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND. C H A P. I. Various Preparations for the Voyage. — Omat's Behaviour on embarking. — Obfervations for determining the Lon^ gitude of Sheer nefs, and the North Foreland. — Pajfage of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth. — Employ- ments there. — Complements of the Crews of both Ships, and Names of the Officers. — Obfervations to fix the Longi- tude of Plymouth. — Departure of the Refolution. HAVING, on the ninth Day of February 1776, re- ceived a commiffion to command his Majefty's floop the Refohition, I went on board the next day, saturdayT hoifted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the fame time, the Difcovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was Vol. I. B purchafed February. :i ; • ;«t^S^ • "'I** 1776. February. I March. Saturday 9. A VOYAGE TO purchafed into the fervice, and the command of her given to Captain Gierke, who had been my fecond Lieutenant on board the Refolution, in my fecond voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned. Thefe two fliips were, at this time, in the dock at Dept- ford, under the hands of the Ihipwrights ; being ordered to be equipped to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction. On the 9th of March, the Refolution was hauled out of dock into the River ; where we completed her rigging, and took on board the ftores and provifions requifite for a voy- age of fuch duration. Both fhips, indeed, were fupplied with as much of every neceflary article as we could conve- niently ftow, and with the bell of every kind that could be procured. And, befides this, every thing that had been found, by the experience acquired during our former ex- tenfive voyages, to be of any utility in preferving the health of feamen, was fupplied in abundance. It was our intention to have failed to Long Reach on the 6th of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the 29th before the wind would permit us to Thurfday 30. movc ; and the 30th before we arrived at that ftation, where our artillery, powder, ftiot, and other ordnance ftores were received. June. While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifer, and others of the Board of Ad- miralty, as the laft mark of the very great attention they had all along (hewn to this equipment, paid us a vifit on Saturday 8. the 8th of Junc, to examine whether every thing had been completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and to the fatisfa<5lion of all who were to embark in the voyage. They, and fcveral other Noblemen and Gentlemen their friends, May. Monday 6. ■^; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that 1776. day ; and, on their coming on board, and alfo on their go- > ^^^ _j ing alhore, we faluted them with feventeci guns, and three cheers. With the benevolent view of conveying fome permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other iflands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to vifit, his Majefty having commanded fome ufeful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the loth, a bull, Monday 10. two cows with their calves, and fome flieep, with hay and corn for their fubfiftence ; intending to add to thefe, other ufeful animals, when I Ihould arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. I was alfo, from the fame laudable motives, fumifhed with a fufficient quantity of fuch of our European garden feeds, as could not fail to be a valuable prefent to our newly- difcovered ifiands, by adding frelh fupplies of food to their own vegetable produdlions. Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our friends in the other lemifphere in various ways, were, at the fame time, delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both ftiips were provi led with a proper afTortment of iron tools and trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly inter- courfe with the inhabitants of fuch new countries as we might be fortunate enough to meet with. The fame humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews : and nothing was denied to us that could be fuppofed in the leaft conducive to health, or even to convenience. Nor did the extraordinary care of thofe at the head of the B 2 naval l>A '■! ;■ &.'■ J- m A VOYAGE TO M %>' 1776. naval department ftop here. They were equally folicitous ^ "*'t^f to afford us every aiiiRance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. Accordingly, we received on board, next TuefJayii. day, fevcral aitronomical and nautical inftruments, which the Board of Longitude intrufled to me, and to Mr. King, my fccond Lieutenant ; we having engaged to that Board to make all the neceffary obfervations, during the voyage, for the improvement of aftronomy and navigation ; and, by our joint labours, to fupply the place of a profeffed obfervator. Such a perfon had been originally intended to be fent out in my Ihip. The Board, likewifc, put into our poffeflion the fame watch, or time-keeper, which I had carried out in my laft voyage, and had performed its part fo well. It was a copy of Mr. Harrifon's, conllrudled by Mr. Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too flow for mean time at Green- wich, by 3' 31'% 89; and by its rate of going, it loft, on mean time, i", 209 per day. Another time-keeper, and the fame number and fort of inftruments for making obfervations, were put on board the Difcovery, under the care of Mr. William Bayly ; who, having already given fatisfa6lory proofs of his fltill and di- ligence as an obfervator, while employed in Captain Fur- neaux's fliip, during the late voyage, was engaged a fecond time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Gierke. Mr. Anderfon, my furgeon, who, to flcill in his immediate profeflion, added great proficiency in natural hiftory, was as willing as he was well qualified, to defcribe every thing in that branch of fcience which Ihould occur worthy of no- tice. As he had already vifited the South Sea iflands in the fame ftiip, and been of Angular fervice, by enabling me to €nrich my relation of that voyage with various ufeful re- 3 marks I77«. June. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. marks on men and things^*, I reafonably exped^ed to derive conliderable affiftance from him, in recording our new pro- ceedings. I had feveral young men amongft my fea-officers, who, under my direction, could be ufefully employed in conftrudl- ing charts, in taking views of the coafts and headlands near which we Ihould pafs, and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we fliould anchor. A conftant attention to this I knew to be highly requifite, if we would render our difcoveries profitable to future navigators. And, that we might go out with every help that could ferve to make the refult of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as inftn.i6live to the failor and fcholar, Mr. Webber was pitched upon, and engaged to em- bark with me, for the exprefs purpofe of fupplying the un- avoidable imperfedlions of written accounts, by enabling us to preferve, and to bring home, fuch drawings of the moft memorable fcenes of our tranfadtions, as could only be exe- cuted by a profeffed and fkilful artift. Every preparation being now completed, I received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Difcovery under my command. I accordingly gave Captain Gierke two orders ; one to put himfelf under my command, and the other to carry his Ihip round to Plymouth. On the 15th, the Refolution failed from Long Reach, Saturday 15. with the Difcovery in company, and the fame evening they anchored at the Nore. Next day the Difcovery i)roceeded, in obedience to my order ; but the Refolution was ordered li ^'^" i i hi.i A VOYAGE TO 1776. June. to the Foreland, will be i*" 21' Eaft. Lunar obfervations made the preceding evening, fixed it at 1° 20' Eaft. At eight o'clock the fame morning, we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately fcnt on fliore for them. I was told that many people had aflcmbled there to fee Oraai ; but, to their great difappoint- ment, he did not land. Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at South South Eaft fjiringing up, we got under fail the next ThurfJay 27. day at two oVJock in the afternoon. But thi breeze foon died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed, witli the wind at Eaft, and proceeded down the Channel. Sunday 30. On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we an- chored in Plymouth Sound, where the Difcovcry had arrived only three days before. I faluted Admiral Amherft, whofe flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven. It was the firft obje<5l of our care, on arriving at Ply- ^louth, to replace the water and i)rovifions that we had July. expended, and to receive on board a fupply of Port Wine. Monday i. Tliis was the employment which occupied us on the ift and Tuefday 2. 2d of July. During our ftay here, the crews were ferved with frefh beef every day. And I ftiould not do juftice to Mr. Omman- ney, the Agent Victualler, if I did not take this opportunity to mention, that he fliewed a very obliging readinefs to fur- nifli mc with the beft of every thing that lay within his de- partment. 1 had been under the like obligations to him on my fctting out upon my laft voyage. Commiffioner Ourry, with equal zeal for the fcrvice, gave us eyery af- liftancc that we wanted from the naval yard. It f. i^^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 9 It couUl. not but occur to us as a fingular and afFeding 17, -A circumllance, that at the very inltant of our departure up- >_ j_"^ , on a voyage, the ohjedl of which was to benefit Europe by making frefli difcoveries in North America, there Ihould be the unhappy neceflity of employing others of his Ma- jefty's fliips, and of conveying numerous bodies of land forces, to fecurc the obedience of thole parts of that con- tinent which had been difcovered and fettled by our coun- trymen in the laft century. On the 6th, his Majelly's fliips Saturday 6. Diamond, Ambufcade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of tranl- ports, confifting of fixty-two fail, bound to America, with the laft divifion of the Heflian troops, and fome horfe, were forced into the Sound by a ftrong North Weft Wind. On the 8th, I received, by exprefs, my inftrudlions '••• for Mjnday «. the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution. I was alfo directed to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow us, as foon as he fliould join his fliip; he being, at this time, detained in London. Our firft difcoverers of the New World, and navigators of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, were juftly thought to have exerted fuch uncommon abilities, and to have accom-" pliflied fuch perilous enterprizcs, that their names have been handed down to ix)rterity as fo many Argonauts. Nay, even the hulks of the fliips that carried them, though not converted into conltcllations in the Heavens, ufed to be honoured and vifited as facred reliques upon earth. We, in the prefent age of improved navigation, who have been jnftruded by their labours, and have followed them as our guides, have no Inch claim to fame. Some merit, however, Jieing ftill, in the public opinion, confldered as due to thole ii, I Vol. I. * See the inftruilions, in tlic Introtludioii. c who -I >h biii hi' July, II 10 AVOYAOETO who fail to unexplored quarters of the globe, in conformity to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the Djcount of my lall voyage the names of the officers of both my (hips, and a tabic of the number of their refpe(flivc crews. The like information will be expcdled from me at prefent. The Rciblution was fitted out with the fame complement of officers and men ffie had before ; and the Difcovery's ellablilhmcnt varied from that of the Adventure, in th ; iinglc inftance of her having no marine officer on hu.i cl, This arrangement was to be finally completed at Plyi. . juti ; Tuefday 9. and, on the 9th, we received the party of mari.ies aUc.u .1 for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who cominan . i the divi- fion at this port, gave me fuch men for the dctachmertt as 1 had rcafon to be fatisfied with. And the fupernumerary fcamen, occafioncd by this reinforcement, being turned over into the Ocean man of war, our feveral complements remained fixed, as rcprefented in the following table : THE PACIFIC OCEAN. XI* n ■77'!? RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY. Officers and Men. 1 Officers Names, N' 1 Oncers Names, Captain, - - James Cook. - — Charlr Clcrke. Lieutenants, - - 3 John Gore. — — James King. - - John WiUiamfon. ■z James du rcy. John Rick ui. Mafter, - I William BUgh. - 1 Thoma* Edgai Boatfwain, - - I William Ewin. - I Eneas \\ kins. Carpenter, - - I James C level y. - 1 Peter Rc> .Ids. Gunner, — — 1 Robert Andcrfon.- I William! kovci Surgeon, - - Mailer's Mates, - I William Anderfon. I Jol 1 Law. ■ 3 « - - 2 Midftiipmcn, - 6 - - - 4 Surgeon's Mates, - 2 .... 2 Captain's Clerk, - I . ^ — I Mafter at Arms, - I ... I Corporal, - - I Armourer, — - I ... I Ditto Mate, - - 1 . _ _. I Sail Maker, - - I ... I Ditto Mate, - - I ... I Boatfwain's Mates, 3 ... 2 Carpenter's Ditto, 3 . . - 2 , Gunner's Ditto, - 2 ... I Carpenter's Crew, 4 . - - 4 Cook, - - I ... I \ Ditto Mate, - - I Quarter Mafters, - 6 ... 4 Able Seamen, 45 ■M ■■ W Marines. 33 Lieutenant, — - I Molcfworth Philii s. Serjeant, - - I - - _ I Corporals, - - 2 . . - I Drummer, - - I — . — I . Private, - - ^5 - - - 8 Total - - I 12 _ - - 8o ^I'.il' C 2 ^t^: / 12 A VOYAGE TO 1776, July. i' ■ 1 I 1(1 ' 'I ■M i J'. -* i i1 ml On tlie loth, the Comniiflioner and Pay Clerks came on board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of laft Wcdnef. 10. month. The petty officers and feamen had, befides, two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter is no more than what is cuftomary in the navy. But the pay- ment of what was due to the fuperior officers was humanely ordered by the Admiralty, in confideration of our peculiar fituation, that we might be better able to defray the very great expence of furnilhing ourfelves with a ftock of necef- faries for a voyage which, probably, Avould be of unufual duration, and to regions where no fupply could be expedled'. Nothing now obftrudling my departure but a contrary wind, which blew ftrong at South Weft, in the morning of Thurfdayii. the iitli, I delivered into the hands of Mr. Burney, firlt Lieutenant of theDifcovery, Captain Clerke's failing orders; a copy of whicli I alfo left with the Officer ••■'• commanding his Majefty's fliips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Cap- tain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wmd moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther out, beyond all the fliipping in the Sound ; where, after making an unfuccefsful attempt to get to fea, we were detained moft of the following day, which was employed in receiving on board a fupply of watev ; and, by the fame velFcl that brought it, all the empty cafks were returned. As I did not imagine my ftay at Plymouth would have been fo long as it proved, we did not get our inftruments on fliore to make the necelTary obfervations for afcertaining the longitude by the watch. For the fame reafon, Mr. Bayly did not fct about this, till he found that the Difcovery would probably be detained fome days after us. He then placed FriJav 12. • Cainain Le Crals, Admiral Amherft having fiiuck his flag fome days before. hit- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. his quadrant upon Drake's Ifland ; and had time, before the Refohition failed, to make obfervations fufficient for the piirpofe we had in view. Our watch made the illand to lie 4° 14', and his, 4° 131', Weft of Greenwich. Its lati- tude, as found by Meflrs. Wales and Bayly, on the laft voyage, is 50° 21' 30" North. We weighed again at eight in the evening, and ftood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at Nonh Weft by Weft. 13 1776. July. t ; f- y a C U A P. ! J ' u A VOYAGE TO CHAP. II. Ill Piiffa^e of the Refolution to 'Teneriffe, — Reception there, — Defcription of Santa Cruz Road. — Refrejhments to be met with. — Obfervations for fixing the Longitude ofteneriffe.-^ Some Account of the Ifland. — Botanical Obfervations.-- Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna. — Agriculture. — Air and Climate. — Commerce. — Inhabitants. Friday 12. Sunday 14, Tufifday 16. Wednef. 17. 'I'Jiujfday 1 8. WE had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before the wind came more wefterly, and blew frefli, fo that we were obliged to ply down the Channel ; and it was not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we were off the Lizard. On the i6th, at noon, St. Agnes's Light-houfe on the Ifles of Scilly bore North Weft by Weft, diftant feven or eight miles. Our latitude was now 49° 53' 30" North, and our longitude, by the watch, 6° 11' Weft. Hence, I reckon that St. Agnes's Light-hovife is in 49° 57' 30" North latitude, and in 6° 20' of Weft longitude. On the 17th '■■ and i8th we were ofFUfliant, and found the longitude of the ifland to be, by the watch, 5° 18' 37" Weft. The variation was 23° o' 50'', in the fame dire Weft. /.Mr. Varila - - 16° 46' o'J But if the latitude of it is 28" 12' 54", as in the Briii/lb Ma- riner's Guide, its longitude will be 13' 30" more wefterly. The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of all our compafles, was found to be 14° 41' 20" Weft. The dip of the North end of the needle was 61° 5a' 30 • • Some of Mr. Anderfon's remarks on the natural appear- ances of TenerifFe, and its productions ', and what he ob- fcrved himfelf, or learnt by information, about the general ftate of the illand, will be of ufe, particularly in marking what changes may have happened there fmce Mr. Glas vi- fited it. They here follow in his own words : " While we were ftanding in for the land, the weather being perfedlly clear, we had an opportunity of feeing the celebrated Pic of TenerifFe. But, I own, I was much dif- appointed in my expedlation with refpedt to its appearance. It is, certainly, far from equalling the noble figure of Pico, one of the Weftern Ifles which I have feen ; though its per- pendicular height may be greater. This circumftance, per- haps, arifes from its being furrounded by other very high hills ; whereas Pico ftands without a rival. Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradu- ally, and is of a moderate height. Beyond this, to the South Weftward, it becomes higher, and continues to rife toward the Pic, which, from the road, appears but little higher than the furrounding hills. From thence it feems to dccreafe, though not fuddenly, as far as the eye can reach. From a fuppofition that we fliould not ftay above one day, I was obliged to contrail my excurlions into the country ; otherwife, 91 AugUR. mi f\ 1: 1' / M 1776. Auguil. A VOYAGE TO otherwife, I had propofed to vilit the top of this famous mountain *. To the eallward of Santa Cruz, the ifland appears per- fedlly barren. Ridges of hills run toward the lea ; between which ridges are deep valleys, terminating at mountains or hills that run acrofs, and are higher than the former. Thofe that nui toward the fea, are marked by imprelfions on their fides, which make them appear as a fucceflion of conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run acrofs, are more uniform in their appearance. In the forenoon of the ift of Augult, after we had an- chored in the road, I went on fliore to one of thefe valleys, with an intention to reach the top oi the remoter hills, which feemed covered with wood ; but time would not allow me to get farther than their foot. After walking about three miles, I found no alteration in the appearance of the lower hills ; which produce great quantities of the euphorbia Canarienfts. It is furprifing that this large fuccu- lent plant, fliould thrive on fo burnt-up a foil. When broken, which is eafdy done, the (^uantity of juice is very great ; and it might be fuppofed that, when dried, it would Ihrivel to nothing ; yet it is a pretty tough, though foft and hght wood. The people here believe its juice to be fo cauftic as • See an account of a journey to the top of the Pic of Tcneriffe, in Sprat's Hi/iorj tf the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. Glat alfo went to the top of it. Hi/lory of the Canary IJkndsy p. 252 to 259. In the Phiiofophical Tranfaftions, vol. xlvii. p. 353 — 356, wc have Ohfervat'tons made. In going up the Pic of Tentriffe, by Dr. T, Heberden. The Doftor makes its height, above the level of the fea, to be 2566 fethoms, or 15,396 Eiigliih feet j and fays, that this was confirmed by two fubfequent obfervations by himfelf, and another made by Mr. Crofle, the Conful. And yet, I fijid, that the Chevalier de Borda, who mcafured the height of this mountain in Auguft 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French toifes, or 12,340 Englilh feet. See Dodtor Forftcr's Obfervatiom during a Voyage round the World, p. 32. to \i: THE PACIFIC OCEAK. 23 to erode the Ikin *i^ ; but I convinced them, tho igh \v ith 1776, niuth difficulty, to the contrary, by thrufting my finger . '^"'"^' . into the plant full of it, without afterward wiping it off. They break down the buflies of euphorbia^ and fufFering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing ehe growing there, but two or three fmall Ihrubs, and a few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley. The bafis of the hills is a heavy, compadt, blueilh (lone, mixed with fome finning particles ; and, on the furface, large mafles of red friable earth, or ftone, are fcattered about. I alfo often found the fame fubftance difpofed in thick Jlrata ; and the little earth, ftrewed here and there, was a blackifli mould. There were likewife fome pieces of flag ; one of which, from its weight and fmooth furface, feemed almoft: wholly metalline. The mouldering fiiate of thefe hills is, doubtlefs, owing to the perpetual adlion of the fun, which calcines their fur- face. This mouldered part being afterward wafhed away by the heavy rains, perhaps is the caufe of their fides be- ing fo uneven. For, as the different fubftances of which they are compofed, are more or lefs eafily affedled by the fun's heat, they will be carried away in the like propor- tions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardeft rock, have ftood, while the other parts on a decli- vity have been deftroyed. As I have ufually obferved, that the tops of mofl mountains that are covered with trees have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe that this is owing to their being fhaded. The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably * Glafs, p. 231, fpeaking of this plant, fays, that he cannot im,iglne why the natives ef the Canaries do not extraSl the juice-, and ufe it inj}ead of pitch, for the bottoms of their boats, Wc now learn from Mr, Anderfon their reafon for not ufing it. well Ii m ■/ 1776. AuguR. FriJay z. A VOYAGE TO well built. The churches are not magnificent without ; but within arc decent, and indifferently ornamented. They arc inferior to fome of the churches at Madeira ; but, I ima- gine, this rather aiifes from the different difixjfition of the l)eople, than from their inability to fupport them better. For the private houfes, and drefs of the Spanilh inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to thofc of the Portuguefc at Madeira; who, perhaps, are wdling to Urip themfelves, that they may adorn their churches. Almoll facing the ffonc pier at the landing-place, is a handlbme marble column lately put up, ornamented with ibme human figiues, that do no difcredit to the artift ; with an inlcription in Spaniih, to commemorate the occafion of the crei A VOYAGE 10 formed me, that a fhnib is common here, agreeing exadtly with the defcription given by Tournefort and Linnjeus, of the teafhrnby as growing in China and Japan. It is rec- koned a weed, and he roots out thoufands of them every year from his vineyards. The Spaniards however, of the illand, fometim^s ufe it as tea, and afcribe to it all the qua- lities of that imported from China. They alfo give it the name of tea; but what is remarkable, they fay it was found here when the illands were firft difcovered. Another botanical curiofity, mentioned by him, is what they call the impregnated lemon *'. It is a perfedl and dif- tin<5l lemon, indofed within another, differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular. The leaves, of the tree that produces this fort, are much longer than thofe of the common one ; and it was reprefented to me as being crooked, and not equal in beauty. From him I learnt alfo, that a certain fort of grape growing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthifi- cal complaints : and the air and climate, in general, are remarkably healthfiU, and particularly adapted to give re- lief ill fuch difeafes. This he endeavoured to account for, by its being always in one's power to procure a different temperature of the air, by refiding at different heights in the illand ; and he exprefled his fuq^rize that the Englifli phyficians fliould never have thought of fending their con- fumptive patients to Teneriffe, inflead of Nice or Lifbon. How much the temperature of the air varies here, I myfelf could fenfibly perceive, only in riding from Santa Cruz up to Laguna ; and you may afcend till the cold becomes in- * The ^VI■iter of the Rcln'ion of Tencriffi\ in Sprafs Hiflory, p. 207, takes notice of this lemon :is produced here, and calls it Pregnada. Probably, emprennada, the Spa- nifh word for iinpiy^iuitit/^ is the name it goes by, tolerable. I 1 ) ''\ It l\ 1 h n' 1- r n. ;lf ^P n- i itice Ipa- 1 t "i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tolerable. I was aflvired that no perfon can live comfort- ably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic, after the month of Auguft *. Although fome Imoke conftantly iffues from near the top of the Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a vol- cano fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly carried on, was deftroyed +. Their trade, indeed, mull be confidered as very confider- able ; for they reckon that forty thoufand pipes of wine are annually made, the greateft part of which is either con- fumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, and fent to the Spanifh Weft Indies |. About fix thoufand pipes were ex- ported every year to North America, while the trade with it was uninterrupted ; at prefent, they think not above half the quantity. The corn they raife is, in general, in- fufiicient to maintain the inhabitants ; but the deficiency • This agrees with Dr. T. Heberden's account, who fays that the fugar-loaf part of the mountain, or lapeiicofa (as it is called), which is an eighth pari of a league (or 1980 feet) to the iopy is covered with /now the greatejl part of the year. See Philofopbical Tranfac- tions, as quoted above. t This port was then filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcano ; infomuch that houfes are now built where fhips formerly lay at anchor. See Glas's Hiji. p. 244. X Glas, p. 342, fays, that they annually export no lefs than fifteen thoufand pipes of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he tells us, that tlie number of the inhabitants of TenerilFe, when the laft account was taken, was no lefs than 96,000. We may reafonably fuppofe that there has been a confiderable increafe of population fince Glas vifited the ifland, which is above thirty years ago. Tlie quantity of wine annually confumed, as the common beverage of at lead one hundred thoufand perfons, muft amount to feveral thoufand pipes. There mufl: be a vaft expenditure of it, by converfion into brandy ; to produce one pipe of which, five or fix pipes of wine muft be diftilled. An attention to thefe particulars will enable every one to judge, that the ac- count given to Mr. Anderfon, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a foundation in truth. 27 1776. Auguft. ''t^' le. E 2 ufed to 2% 17:6. Augulf. h''* A VOYAGE TO iifecl to he fupplied by importation from the North Ameri- cans, who took their wines in return. They make a Httle lilk ; but unlefs we reckon the filter- ing-ltones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary, the wine is the only conliderable article of the foreign commerce of TenerifFe. None of the race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards difcovered the Canaries, now remain a diftindl people *, having intermarried with the Spanilh fettlers ; but their defendants are known, from their being remark- ably tall, large-boned, and ftrong. The men are, in gene- ral, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale com- plexion, entirely deftitute of that bloom which diftin- guiflies our Northern beauties. The Spanilh cuftom of wearing black clothes continues amongft ii>em; but the men feem more indifferent about this, and in fome mea- fure drefs like the French. In other refpe6ls, we found the inhabitants of Tenerift'e to be a decent and very civil l)eople, retaining that grave caft which diftinguifties thole of their country from other European nations. Although we do not think that there is a great limilarity between our manners and thofe of the Spaniards, it is worth obfei-ving, that Omai did not think there was much diflference. He only faid, " that they feemed not fo friendly as the Eng- lifh ; and that, in their perfons, they ai>proached thofe of his countrymen." • It was otherwifc in Glas's time, when a few families of the Gtuvichei (as they are called) remained dill in TenerifFe, not blendtd with the Spaniards. Gla!, p. 240. CHAP. m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 CHAP. III. Departure from T'eneriffe. — Danger of the Ship near Bona- vifia.^IJle of Mayo. — Port Praya. — Precautions againjl the Rain and ftiltry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator. — Pofition of the Coqft of Brazil. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. — T'ranfaBions there. — Jun£iion of the Difcovery. — Mr. Anderfon^s Journey up the Country. — Af- tronomical Obfervations.-— -Nautical Remarks on the Paf- fage from England to the Cape., with regard to the Cur- rents and the Variation. HAVING completed our water, and got on board every ,776. other thing we wanted at TenerifFe, we weighed an- ^^^g^*^-^ chor on the 4th of Auguft, and proceeded on our voyage, Sunday 4. with a fine gale at North Eaft. At nine o'clock in the evening on the loth *, we faw the Saturday 10. illand of Bonavifta bearing South, diftant little more than a league ; though, at this time, we thought ourfelves much farther off: but this proved a miftake. For, after hauling to the Eaft ward till twelve o'clock, to clear the funken rocks that lie about a league from the South Eaft point of the illand, we found ourfelves, at that time, clofe upon them, and did but juft weather the breakers. Our fituation, for a few minutes, was very alarming. 1 did not choofe to found, * As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, both to the difcipline and to the health of his fhip's company, it may be worth while to obfcrve here, that it appears from his log- book, he exerdfed them at great guns and fmall arms, and cleaned and fmoked the Jliip betwixt daks, twice in the interval between the 4th and the 10th of Auguft. as h I i :! vl / tMi Aiiguft. Sunday 1 1, l^-l'l Monday i; A VOYAGE TO as that might have heightened the clanger, without any poiribility of leffening it. I make the North end of the illand of Bonavifta to lie in the latitude of i6° 17' North, and in the longitude of 22° 59' Weft. 7\s foon as we were clear of the rocks, we fteered South vSouth Weft, till day-break next morning, and then hauled to the Wcftward, to go between Bonavifta and the iile of Mayo, intending to look into Port Praya for the Difcovery, as I had told Captain Gierke that I fhould touch there, and did not know how foon he might fail after me. At one in the afternoon, we faw the rocks that lie on the South Weft lide of Bonavifta, bearing South Eaft, diftant three or four leag\ies. Next morning, at fix o'clock, the ifle of Mayo bore South South Eaft, diftant about five leagues. In this fituation we founded, and iound ground at fixty fathoms. At the fame time the variation, by the mean of feveral azimuths taken with three different compaffes-, was 9° 32 1' Weft, At eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo bore Eaft by North, and the other South Eaft by South. In this pofition, two roundifli hills appeared near its North Eaft part ; farther on, a large and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of its length, a fmgle one that is peaked. At the diftance we now faw this illand, which was three or four miles, there was not the leaft appearance of vegetation, nor any re- lief to the eye from that lifelefs brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid Zone that are unwooded. Here I cannot help remarking that Mr. Nichelfon, in his Preface to Sundry Remarks and Obfervathns made in a Voy- age to the Eajl Indies '■•-, tells us, tliat " with eight degrees * On board his Majefty's fliip Elizabeth, from 1758 to 1764 ; by William Nichel- fon, Maftcr of the faid fliip. London, 1773. "Weft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. « Weft variation, or any thing above that, you may ven- ** ture to fail by the Cape cle Verde Illands night or day, " being well affured, with that variation, that you are to «' the Eaftward of them." Such an affertion might prove of dangerous confequence, were there any that would im- plicitly truft to it. We alfo tried the current, and found one fetting South Weft by Weft, fomething more than half a mile an hour. We had reafon to expedt this, from the differences between the longitude given by the watch and dead reckoning, which, fmce our leaving Teneriffe, amount- ed to one degree. While we were amongft thefe iflands, we had light breezes of wind, varying from the South Eaft to Eaft, and fome calms. This ftiews that the Cape de Verde Illands are either extenfive enough to break the current of the trade wind, or that they are fituated juft beyond its verge, in that fpace where the variable winds, found on getting near the line, begin. The firft fuppolition, however, is the moft probable, as Dampier '> found the wind wefterly here in the month of February ; at which time the trade wind is fap- pofed to extend fartheft toward the equinoctial. The wea- ther was hot and fultry, with fome rain ; and, for the moft part, a dull whitenefs prevailed in the fky, that feems a medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical regions feldom enjoy that clear atmofphere obfervablc where variable winds blow ; nor does the fun fliine with fuch brightnefs. This circumftance, however, feems an advantage ; for otherwife, perhaps, the rays of the fun, being uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unfup- portable. The nights are, neverthelcfs, often clear and ferene. 3^ 1776. Auguft. J.\ V-^ f!;i| .t,?3 Ml ' i : ! I Dampier's Voyages, Vol. iii. p. 10, T At ''. ' "I 3* A VOYAGE TO 1776. AiigulL Wednef. 14. Friday 30. p.-::' ■,-jl At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived l)efore Port Praya, in the illancl of St. Jago, where we faw lucfday 13. two Dutch Eall India Ihips, and a fmall brigantine at an- chor. As the Difcovery was not there, and we had ex- pended bxit little water in our paflage from Teneriife, 1 did not think proper to go in, but ftood to the Southward. Some altitudes of the Sun were now taken, to afcertain the true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced there- from, was 23° 48' Weft ; the little illand in the bay bore Weft North Weft, diftant near three miles, which will make i^^ longitude 23° 51'. The fame watch, on my late voyage, made the longitude to be 23° 30' Weft ; and we obferved the latitude to be 14° 53' 30" North. The day after we left the Cape de Verde Illands, we loft the North Eaft trade wind ; but did not get that which blows from the South Eaft till the 30th, when we were in the latitude of 2° North, and in the twenty-fifth degree of Weft longitude. During this interval ■•'■', the wind was moftly in the South Weft quarter. Sometimes it blew frefli, and in fqualls ; but for the moft part a gentle breeze. The calms were few, and of fliort duration. Between the latitude of 12" and of 7° North, the weather was generally dark and gloomy, with frequent rains, which enabled us to fave as much wa- ter as filled moft of our empty cafks. Thefe rains, and the clofe fultry weather accompanying * On the 1 8th, I funk a bucket with a thermometer fcventy fathoms below the fur- face of the fea, where it remained two minutes ; and it took three minutes more to haul it up. 'I'he mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, flood at 78, and in the furface of the fca at 79. The water which came up in the bucket con- tained, by Mr. Cavendifh's table, j'^, 7 part fait ; and that at the furface of the fea ,'j,, 4. As this laft was taken up after a fmart ihowcr of rain, it might be lighter on that ac- count. Captain Giok's hg-btok, them, u M THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 33 them, too often bring on ficknefs in this paflage. Every bad confeqiience, at leaft, is to be apprehended from them ; and commanders of fhips cannot be too much upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and fmoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. Thefe precautions were conftantly ob- ferved on board the Refolution * and Difcovery ; and we certainly profited by them, for we had now fewer fick than on either of my former voyages. We had, however, the mortification to find our fliip exceedingly leaky in all her upper works. The hot and fultry weather we had juft pafTed through, had opened her learns, which had been badly caulked at firft, fo wide, that they admitted the rain water through as it fell. There was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed ; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their cabins, by the water that came through the fides. The fails in the fail-room got wet ; and before we had weather to dry them, many of them were much damaged, and a great expence of canvas and of time became neceflary to make them in fome degree ferviceable. Having experienced the fame defedt in our fail-rooms on my late voyage, it had been reprefented to the yard oflficers, who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to me that any thing had been done to remedy the complaint. To repair thefe defedls the caulkers were fet to work, as foon as we got into fair fettled weather, to caulk the decks and infide weather-works of the fliip ; for I would not truft them over the fides while we were at fea. * The particulars arc mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th of Auguft, a fire was made in the well, to air the (hip below. On the 1 5tli, the fpare fails were aired upon deck, and a fire made to air the fail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the 21ft, cluar.ed and fmoked betwixt decks ; and on the 22d, the men's bedding was fpread on deck to air. Vol. I. F On 1776. Auguft ■i l''i ti / 54 A VOYAGE TO i7;6. September. ■ f |) !i J y M On the firft of September ^^ we croffed the Equator, in the longitude of 27° 38' Weft, with a fine gale at South Eaft by Sunday i. South; and notwithftanding my apprehenfions of falling in with the coaft of Brafil in ftrctching to the South Weil, I kept the fliip a full point from the wind. However, I found my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing near that coaft, we met with the wind more and more eafterly ; fo that, by the time we were in the latitude of 10° South, we could make a South Eafterly courfe good. Sunday 8. On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8° 57' South ; which is a little to the Southward of Cape St. Auguftine, on the coaft of Bralll. Our longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar oblervations, was 34° 16' Weft; and by the watch, 34° 47'. The former is 1° 43', and the latter 2° 14' more Wefterly than the iiland of Fernando de Noronha, the lituation of which was pretty well determined during my late voyage +. Hence I concluded that we could not now * The afternoon, as appears from Mr. Anderfon's Journal, was fpent in performing the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking thofe who had not crofled the Equator before. Though Captain Cook did not fupprefs the cuftom, he thought it too trifling to deferve the leaft mention of it in his Journal, or even in his log-book. Pernetty, the Writer of Bougainville's Voyage to the Falkland Iflands, in 1763 and 1764, thought diiFerently; for his account of the celebration of this childifli feflival on board his Hiip, is extended through feventeen pages, and makes the fubjeil of an entire chapter, under the title of Bapthne de la L'igne, It may be worth while to tranfcribe his introdiiftion to the defcription of it. " C'eft " un ufage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que ce voyage celebre de Gsuna, qui a fourni au " Camoens le fujet de la Lufiade. L'Idee qu'on ne f^auroit etre un bon marin, fans avoir " traverfe I'Equateur, I'ennui infeparable d'une longue navigation, un certain efprit repub- " licaiii qui regne dans toutes les petites focietes, peut-etre toutes ces caufes reunies, ont " pu donncr naiflance a ces efp?ces de faturnales. Quoiqu'il en foit, elles furcnt adoptees, " en un inftant, dans toutes ies nations, et les hommes les plus eclaires furent obliges de fc " foumeitre a une coutume dont ils reconnoiftbient I'abfurdite. Car, partout, des que le " peuplc parle, il faut que le fage fe mette a I'unifoni" Hijlmre d'un Voyage tiiix JJles Ma- kiilnes, p. 107, 108. ■f See Cook's Voyage, Vol, II. p. 278. be THE PACIFIC OCEAN. be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty leagues at "loft; and perhaps not much lei's, as we neither had foundings nor any other figns of land. Dr. Halley, how- ever, in his voyage, publiflied by Mr. Dalrymple, tells us *, that be made no more than one hundred and two miles, meri- dian diJiance,from the ijland [Fernando de Noronha] to the coajl of Brajil \ and feems to think that currents could not be the whole caufe of his making fo little. But I rather think that he was miftaken, and that the currents had hurried him far to the Weftward of his intended courfe. This was, in fome meafure, confirmed by our own obfervations ; for we had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th, that the currents fet to the Weftward ; and, during the latt twenty-four hours, it had fet ftrong to the Northward, as we experienced a difference of twenty-nine miles between our obferved latitude and that by dead reckoning. Uix)n the whole, till fome better aftronomical obfervations are made on fhore on the Eaftern coaft of Brafil, I fliall con- clude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-fix degrees Weft, at moft. We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any thing of note, till the 6th of Odlober. Being then in the latitude of 35" 15' South, longitude 7° 45' Weft, we met with light airs and calms by turns, for three days fucceflively. We had, for fome days before, feen albatrolTcs, pintadoes, and other petrels ; and here we faw three penguins, which occafioned us to found ; but we found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We put a boat in the water, and fhot a few birds ; one of which was a black pe- trel, about the fize of a crow, and, except as to the bill and feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the * P. ir. F 2 throat; vfti 35. 1776. September. ili Oftober. Sunday 6. : 'Il / 3^ i. 1776. Oftober. TucfJay S. A VOYAGE TO throat ; and the uiuler-fule of the quill-feathers were of an afli-colour. All the other feathers were jet black, as alfo the bill and legs. On the 8th, in the evening, one of thofe birds which failors call noildics, fettled on our rigging, and was caught. It was fomcthing larger than an Englifli black-bird, and nearly as black, except the upj^er part of the head, which was white, looking as if it were jwwdered ; the whiteft fea- thers growing out from the bafe of the upper bill, from which they gradually alTumed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white Ihade was lolt in the black, without being divided by any line. It was web-footed ; had black legs and a black bill, which was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is faid thefe birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the ftation we were in, than Gough's or Richmond liland, from which our diilance could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. But it muft be obferved that the Atlantic Ocean, to the Southward of this latitude, has been but little fre- quented ; fo that there may be more iflands there than we are acquainted with. < We frequently, in the night, faw thofe luminous ma- rine animals mentioned and defcribed in my firft voyage *•. Some of them Teemed to be confiderably larger than any I had before met with ; and fometimes they were fo nume- rous, that hundreds were vifible at the lame moment. This calm weather was fucceeded by a frefli gale from the North Weft, which lafted two days. Then we had again variable light airs for about twentyrfour hours ; when the North Weft wind returned, and blew with fuch ftrength^ * Sec Hawkefworth's ColleiUon of Voyages, Vol. II. p. 15. that J* THE PACIFIC OCEAN. that on the 17th we had fight of the Cape of Good Hope ; and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms water, with the church bearing South Weft i South, and Green Point North Weft I Weft. As foon as we had received the ufual vifit from the Mafter Attendant and the Surgeon, I fent an officer to wait on Ba- ron Plettenberg, the Governor ; and, on his return, fainted the garrifon with thirteen guns, which compliment was re- turned with the fame number. We found in the bay two French Eaft India Ships : the one outward, and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, another homeward bound fhip of the fame nation had parted from her cable, and been driven on fhore at the head of the bay, where ftie was loft. The crew were faved ; but the greateft part of the cargo ftiared the fame fate with the fliip, or (which amounted to the fame) was plundered and ftolcn by the inhabitants, ei- ther out of the ftiip, or as it was driven or carried on lliore. This is the account the French officers gave to me ; and the Dutch thcmfelves could not deny the fadt. But, by way of excufing themfelves from being guilty of a crime difgrace- ful to every civilized ftate, they ende-avoured to lay the whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in time for a guard. As foon as we had fainted, I went on lliore, accompanied by fome of my officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieutenant Governor, the Fifcal, and the Commander of the troops. Thefc gentlemen received me with the greateft ci- vility ; and the Governor, in particular, promifed me every affirtance that the place afforded. At the fame time I ob- tained his leave to let up our obfervatory on any fpot I Ihould think moft convenient ; to pitch tents for the fail- makers 1776. Oauber. t .v—^ Thurfday 17, Friday itl. n ■h 'i' 'm 38 1776, Oftc ober. TuefJay 22. Wednef. 23. Saturday 26. Sunday 27, Thurfday 31. \ VOYAGE TO makers and coopers ; and to brinj; the cattle on (horr, to cjrazc near our encampment. Before I returned on board* 1 ordered loft bread, fre(h meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the (hip's company. On the 22d, we fet up the tents and obfervatory, and be- gan to fend the feveral articles out of the (liip which I wanted on Ihore. This could not be done fooner, as the militia of the place were excrciling on, or near, the ground which we were to occupy. The next day, we began to obferve equal altitudes of the Sun, in order to afcertain the rate of the watch, or, which is the fiime thing, to find whether it had altered its rate. Thefe obfervations were continued every day, whenever the weather would permit, till the time of oiu- departure drew near. But before this, the caulkers had been fet to work to cavilk the Ihip ; and I had concerted meafures with MeflTrs. Brandt and Chiron, for fupplying both fhips with fiich provifions as I fhould want. Bakers, likewife, had been or- dered, immediately after our arrival, to bake fuch a quantity of bread as I thought would be requifite. As faft as the fe- veral articles deftined for the Refolution were got ready, they were carried on board. On the 26th, the French (hip failed for Europe, and by her we fent letters to England. The next day, the Hamp- (liire Eaft hidia (hip, from Bencoolen, anchored in the bay, and faluted us with thirteen guns, which we returned with eleven. Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31ft, when it came on to blow exceifively hard at South Ea(t, and continued for three days; during which time there was no communication between the (hip and the fhore. The Refolution was the only Ihip in the bay that rode out the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 1776. November. Sunday y the gale without dragging her anchors. Wc felt its efFe»5ts as fcnlibly on Ihore. Our tents and obfcrvatory were torn to pieces ; and our agronomical quadrant narrowly efcaped irreparable damage. On the 3d of November the ftorm ccafcd, and the next day we relumed our dilFerent employ- ments. On the 6th, the Hampfhire India ftiip failed for England. WcJnef. 6. In her I fent home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was fo obliging as to receive on board. I was afterward lorry that I had not availed myfelf of this opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled with different complaints ; but, at this time, there was fome hope of their health being re-eft abliflied. In the morning of the loth, the Difcovery arrived in the Sunday 10. bay. Captain Gierke informed me that he had failed from Plymouth on the ift of Auguft, and IhoiUd have been with us here a week fooner, if the late gale of wind had not blown him off" the coaft. Upon the whole, he was {even days longer in his paflfage from England than we had been. He had the misfortune to lofe one of his marines, by falling over-board ; but there had been no other mor- tality amongft his people, and .hey now arrived well and healthy. Captain Clerke having reprcfented to me that his lliip was in want of caulking ; that no time might be loft in repair- ing this defe(St, next day I fent all my workmen on board Monday i » her, having already completed this fervice on board the Re- folution. I lent every other afliftance to the Captain to ex- pedite his fupply of provifions and water, having given him an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he could conveniently itow. I now found that the bakers had failed in baking the bread I had ordered for the Difcovery. 3 They I. s '>! ^ isi 1 ■^ i i 1 1 ¥> 1776. November. ■iifi Thurfday 1 4. "'I' A VOYAGE TO They pretended a want of flour ; but the truth was, they were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to begin till they faw her at anchor in the bay. I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on Ihore. The bull and two cows, with their calves, were fent to graze along with fome other cattle ; but I was advifed to keep our fheep, fixteen in number, clofe to our tents, where they were penned up every night. During the night pre- ceding the 14th, fome dogs having got in amongft them, forced them out of the pen, killing four, and difperfing the reft. Six of them were recovered the next day ; but the two rams, and two of the fineft ewes in the whole flock, were iimongft thofe mifling. Baron Plettenberg being now in the country, I applied to the Lieutenant Governor, Mr. Hemmy, and to the Fifcal. Both thefe Gentlemen promifed to ufe their endeavours for the recovery of the loft flieep. The Dutch, we know, boaft that the police at the Cape is fo carefully executed, that it is hardly poflible for a flave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to effedluate his efcape. Yet my flieep evaded all the vigilance of tne Fifcal's officers and jieople. However, after much trouble and expence, by employing fome of the meaneft and loweft fcoundrels in the place (who, to ufe the phrafe of the per- fon who recommended this method to me, would, for a ducatoon, cut their mafter's throat, burn the houfe over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the afhes), I recovered them all but the two ewes. Of thefe I never could hear the leaft tidings ; and I gave over all inquiry af- ter them, when I was told that, fince I had got the two rams, I might think myfelf very well off. One of thefe, however, was fo much hurt by the dogs, that there was realbn to believe he would never recover. Mr. >^i ^V'i # THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Mr. Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this lofs, l)y giving nie a Spanifli ram, out of fome that he hail lent for from Lifbon. But I declined the offer, under a perfua- fion that it would anfwer my purpofe full as well, to take with me fome of the Cape rams : the event proved, that I was under a miftakc. This Gentleman has taken fome pains to introduce Euroi)ean flieep at the Cape ; but his en- deavours, as he told me, have been frurtrated by the obfti- nacy of the country people, who hold their own breed in greater eftimation, on account of their large tails, of the fat of which they fometirnes make more money than of the whole carcafs befides * ; and think that the wool of Euro- pean flieep will, by no means, made up for their deficiency in this rcfpe<5t. Indeed, I have heard fome fenfible men here make the fame obfervation. And there feems to be foundation for it. For, admitting that European flieep were to produce wool of the fame quality here as in Europe, which experience has fhewn not to be the cafe, the Dutch have not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to fpare for the mamifadluring even their own clothing. It is certain that, were it not for the continual importation of flavjs,,this fet- tlement would be thinner of people than any other inha- bited part of the world. While the fliips were getting ready for the profecution of our voyage, fome of our officers made an excurlion to * " The moft remarkable thing in the Cape flieep, is tV' 'ength and thicknefs of their tails, .s'hich weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not fo tallowifli as that of Kciropean mutton, and the poorer fort ufe it for butter." Kolbeni Qtpe of GojJ Hope [Knglifti trandation], Vol. II. p. 65. De la Caille, who finds every thing wrong in Kolben, fays, the weight of the tails of the Cape flieep is not above five or fix pounds. Foyage de la Cii/le, p. 343. If the information given to Captain Cook may be depended upon, it will prove that, in this inftance at leafi-, K jlbcn is unjiiftly accufed of exaggeration. Vol. I. Ci take 41 1776. November. i ,ut\ i: ' fl. ^% 4% A VOYAGE TO . 'I M mil 1,- *■ . 1776. November. Saurdav 16, take a view of the neighbouring country. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who was one of the i^arty, gave me the fol- lowing relation of their proceedings * : " On the 1 6th, in the forenoon, I fet out in a waggon, with five more, to take a view of fome part of the country. We crofled the large plain that hes to the Eaftward of the town, which is entirely a white fand, like that commonly found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other fmall plants of various forts. At five in the afternoon we pafled a large farm-houfe, with fome corn-fields, and pretty con- fiderable vineyards, fituatcd beyond the plain, near the foot of fome low hills, where the foil becomes worth cultivating. Between fix and feven we arrived at Stellenbofli, the colony next to that of the Cape for its importance. The village does not confift of more than thirty houfes, and ftands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, above twenty miles to the Eaft:ward of the Cape Town. The houfes are neat ; and, with the advantage of a rivulet which runs near, and the flicker of fome large oaks, planted at its firft fettling, forms what may be called a rural pro- fpe«St in this defert country. There are fome vineyards and orchards about the place, which, from their thriving ap- pearance, fcem to indicate an excellent foil ; thoiigh, per- haps, they owe much to climate, as the air here has an \\n- common ferenitv. rt 1 t * In the Ihiiofophical Tranfadions, Vol. licvi. p. 268 to 319, is an Account of Thru 'Jouritki frotn the Qipc Town into the Sauthini Ports of Africa-, in 1772, 1773, and 1774 ; by Mr. PVancis Maflbn, wlio had been fcnt from England for the difcovery of new phuits, towards the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kcw. Much curious information is contained in Mr. Maflbn's account of thefc journics. M. de PagcF, who was at the Cape in 1773, gives fome remarks on the (late of that fettlemcnt, and alfo the particulars of his journey from Falfe Bay to the Cape Town. Voyage vers le Ptle du Slid, p. 17 to 32. I employed jjgM| THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 43 i \'i 1776. November. 1 employed the next day in fearching for plants and in- fers about Stellenbofli, but had little fuccefs. Few plants are in flower here at this feafon, and infedls but fcarce. I Sunday 17. examined the foil in feveral places, and found it to confift of yellowifli day, mixed with a good deal of fand. The fides of the low hills, which appear brown, feem to be con- ftituted of a fort of ftone marie. We left Stellenbofli next morning, and foon arrived at Monday 18 the houfe we had pafled on Saturday ; the owner of which, Mr. Cloeder, had fent us an invitation, the evening before, to vifit him. This Gentleman entertained us with the greateft hofpitality, and in a manner very different from what we expedled. He received us with mulic ; and a band alfo played while we were at dinner; which, confidering the lituation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He fhewed us his wine-cellars, his orchards, and vineyards ; all which, I muft own, infpired me with a wifli to kno in what manner thefe induftrious people could create fuch plenty, in a fpot where, I believe, no other European nation would have attempted to fettle. In the afternoon we croffed the country, and pafled a few plantations, one of which feemed very conflderable, and was laid out in a tafl:e fomewhat different from any other we faw. In the evening we arrived at a farm-houfe, which is the firft in the cultivated tra<5l called the Pear/. We had, at the fame time, a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and contains feveral farms or planta- tions, not very extenflve. I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in queft of plants Tuefday ly and infedls, which I found almoft as fcarce as at Stellen- bofli ; but I met with more flirubs or fmall trees, naturally G 2 produced, 1 . 1 ■ 4?^ 1776. Novtinber. v.. -^—1/ A VOYAGE TO produced, in the valleys, than m any part of the country I had hitherto feen. In the afternoon, we went to fee a ftone of a remarkable fize, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond*. It lies, or Itands, upon the top of fome low hills, at the foot of which our farm-houfe was fituated ; and though the road to it is neither very Iteep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it. It is cf an oblong fhape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly South and North. The Eall: and Weil fides are fteep, and almoft perpendicular. The South end is likewil'e fteep, and its greateft height is there; from whence it declines gently to the North part, by which we afcended to its top, and had an extenfive view of the whole country. Its circumference, I think, muft be at leaft half a mile ; as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, includ- ing every allowance for the bsd road, and flopping a littlc- At its higheft part, which is the South end, comparing it with a known (ibjedt, it fecms to equal the dome of St. Paul's V * Tn the Philofophical Tranfaclions, V(>\. Ixviii. Part I. p. 102. we have a Letter trom Mr. Aiu'.orfon to Sir John Pringle, dffcribiiig this remarkable ftoiic. The account fciit home from the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the Hime with thar now publiflied, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to fee it at Air. Alaj/oii's dtfitr, who, probably, had not had an opportunity of fufficiently examin- ing it himfelf. In the account of his journies, above referred to, p. 270, he only fays, " ilyre are two lar^ejoiul racks on the Ptvel lierg^ each of which (he beiuvrs) is mere than w./,i, I..,,', 'l.l.-.viit'.'ii.. / /:/. ■,/ . .„ ...,.„.,,., 1 y / y ^ «' fcWi.H.. .'..,. Having given Captain Gierke a copy of my inftrudions, and an order dire<5ting him how to proceed in cafe of fepa- Saturday 30. ration; in the morning of the 30th, we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze fprung up at South Eaft, with which we weighed, and flood out of the bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Ifland and the Eaft fhore, where we lay till three o'clock next morn- ing. We then weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze at South ; but did not get clear of the land till the morning of the 3d, when, with a frefti gale at Weft North Weft, we ftood to the South Eaft, to get more into the way of thefe winds. On the 5th, a fudden fquall of wind carried away the Refolution's mizen top-maft. Having another to replace it, the lofs was not felt; efpecially as it was a bad ftick, and had often complained. On the 6th, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 39° 14' South, and in the longitude of 23* 56' Eaft, we pafled through feveral fmall fpots of water of a reddifti colour. Some of this was taken up ; and it was foimd to abound with a fmall animal, which the micro- fcope difcovered to be like a cray-fifh, of a reddilh hue. We continued our courfe to the South Eaft, with a very ftrong gale from the Weftwari , <^' 'Howed by a mountainous fea ; which made the fliip roll anJ tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to preferve the cattle we had on board. Notwithftanding all our care, feveral goats, efpe- cially the males, died ; and fome fheep. This misfortune was, in a great meafure, owing to the cold, which we now began moft fenfibly to feel. On the 1 2th, at noon, we faw land extending from South Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft. Upon a nearer ap- proach, ThurWay 12. f! p. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. proach, we found it to be two iflands . That which lies moft to the South) and is alfo the largeft, I judged to be about fifteen leagues in circuit ; and to be in the latitude of 46' 53' South, and in the longitude of 37° 46' Eaft. The moft Nor- therly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and lies in he latitude of 46° 40' South, and in 38° 8' Eaft longitude. The diftance from the one to the other is about five leagues. We pafled through this channel, at equal diftance from both illands ; and could not difcover, with the afliftance of our beft glafles, either tree or ftirub on either of them. They feemed to have a rocky and bold fhore ; and, except- ing the South Eaft parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a furface compofed of barren mountains, which rife to a confiderable height, and whofe fummits and fides were covered with fnow, which in many places feemed to be of a confiderable depth. The South Eaft parts had a much greater quantity on them than the reft ; owing, probably, to the Sun adling for a lefs fpace of time on thefe than on the North and North Weft parts. The giound, where it was not hid by the fnow, from the various fliades it exhi- bited, may be fuppofed to be covered with mofs, or, per- haps, fuch a coarfe grafs as is found in fome paits of Falk- land's Illands. On the North fide of each of the illands is a detached rock : that near the South illand is fliaped like a tower, and feemed to be at fome diftance from the fliore. As we pafled along, a quantity of fea-weed was leen, and the colour of the water indicated foundings. But there was no appearance of an inlet, unlefs near the rod: 31 .ft men- tioned ; and that, from its fmallnefs, did not promife a good anchoring-place. Thefe two iflands, as alfo four others which lie from nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to the Eaft, and nearly 53 1776. December. 'A 'i 54 A VOYAGE TO ¥ 1776. December. nearly in the fame latitude, were dilcovered, as I have men- tioned in my late voyage •^■, by Captains Marion du Frefne, and Crozet, French Navigators, in January 1772, on their paflage ni two fliips from t)ie Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Illands. As they have no names in the French chart of the Southern hemifphere, which Captain Crozet communicated to me in 1775 +, I (hall diltinguifli the two we now faw, by calling them Prince Edward's Illands, after his Mrjefty's fourth fon ; and the other four, by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Illands, to commemorate their dif- coverers. We had now, for the moft part, ftrong gales between the North and Weft, and but very indifferent weather ; not better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the very depth of Winter, though it was now the middle of Summer in this hemifphere. Not difcouraged, however, by this, after leaving Prince Edward's Illands, I fliaped our courfe to pais to the Southward of the others, that I might get into the latitude of the land difcovered by Monfieur dc Kerguelen. I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom, as I have mentioned, I found at Teneriffe, requefting, that if he knew any thing of the ifland difcovered by Monfieur de Kergue- len, between the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, he would be fo obliging as to communicate it to me. Accord- ingly, juft before v/c failed from Santa Cruz bay, he lent * Cipimn Coot') Foyage, Vol. ii. p. 266. Thefc iflands are tliere faiJ to be in the la- titude of 48' South i tliat is, two degrees tarther Soutli, than wliat h-^re appears to be their real pofition. t Sec Cook's Voyage., as abo\e. Dr. Forfter, in his Ohfrvations made durb^! that voya^t, p. 30, gives us this defcription of the Chart then communicated by Monfieur Cro- zet: that it was pul/!iJJjid under tbi piUroinjgc of the Duke de Cicye^ iy Robert de Vaugondy. Captain Cook tells us, lower in tliis Chapter, that it was published 'v\ 1773. 3 nie \^> THE PACIFIC OCEAN. me the following account of it, viz. " That the Pilot of the <' Bouflble, who was in the voyage with Monfieur de Ker- " gtielen, had given him the latitude and longitude of a ** little illand, which Monlieur de Kerguelen called the " I lie of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from the " great illand which he faw. Latitude of the little ifle, by " feven obfervations, 48" 26' South ; longitude, by feven ob- « fervations of the diftance of the Sun and Moon, 64° 57' " Eaft from Paris." 1 was very forry I had not fooner known that there was on board the frigate at TenerifFe, an officer who had been with Monfieur de Kerguelen, efpecially the Pilot ; becaufe from him I might have obtained more in- terefting information about this land than the lituation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant *. My * Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining part of this Chapter, and in the next, being upon a coaft newly difcovercd by the French, it could not but be an objcdt of his attention to trace the footfteps of the original explorers. But no fuperiority of profeflional (kill, nor diligence in exerting it, could polEbly qualify him to do this fuccefsfully, without pofleffing, at the fame time, full and authentic intelli- gence of all that had been performed here by his predcceflbrs in the difcovery. But that he was not fo fortunate as to be thus fufficiently inftruiited, will appear from the following fadls, which the Reader is requeftcd to attend to, before he proceeds to the perufal of this part of the Journal. How very little was known, with any prccifion, about the operations of Kerguelen, when Captain Cook failed in 1776, may be inferred from the following paragraph of his Inftruflions : " You are to proceed in fearch of fome iflands faifl to have been lately fcen " by the French in the latitude of 48° South, and in the meridian of Mauritius (a)." This was, barely, the amount of the very indefinite and imperfect information, wliich Captain Cook himfelf had received from Baron Plettenbcrg at the Cape of Good Hope, in November 1772 ("ij ; in the beginning of which year Kerguelen's fiijl voyage had taken place. The Captain, on his return horn'. ' .ud, in March 1775, heard, a fecond time, fome- thing about this French difcovery at the Cape, where he met with Monfieur Crozet, (d) See the Inflrudtions in the Inirndviftioi (b) See Captain Cook's Voyage, Vul. i. p. 55 1776. December. "i\M who M S6 A VOYAGE TO iL hii ■A 1776. My inftriKftions dire6ting me to examine it, with a view to difcover a good harbour, I proceeded in the fearch ; and on who Vtty eblig t^'y communicated to him a Chart of the SoutJwrn H<"niifp}i<;re, whT^m were delineated not only his own dif-overies, but alfo that ofC:^!.fi)n Ki'gtffLen (ai. But what little infomiation that Chart could convey, was ftill neci-flarily u,'''l in Franc-; \'.\ . "^3 j tluU is, before any intelligence could pofTib! be conv. vc J from i!.e Sonuicrn Ik :. Inhere of the refult of Kerguelen's fecord vifit to tfsi? new \za^ \ which, we now know, hap- pened towards the cku"" of the fairo v«»r. Of thefe latter oper.'vions, the M;'.y account (if that can be called an account, wliich conveys no particular information) leceivfd by Captain C'.,ik from Monficur '..'vozct, was, that a later Voyage hud been iindciiaken ly the Ft-fuh, under ths id/MW.d of i^ptai>i Kiiguel ;, which had eiiiLi much to the dij^raf ofthul commander (b), Wha? Crozet had not communicated to our Autiior, and wh . ' e arc fure, from a variety man who obligingly lent his affiftance to gi\c a view of the prior obfcnations of the French, and to con- ne. We had no fooner got off the Cape, than we obferved the coaft, to the Southward, to be much indented by projcdling points and bays ; fo that we now made fure of foon finding a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile far- ther, before we difcovered one behind the Cape, into which we began to ply ; but after making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in forty-five fathoms wa- ter, the bottom black fand ; as did the Difcovery foon after. I immediately difpatched Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, in a boat to foimd the harbour; who, on his return, reported it to be Tafe and commotlious, with good anchorage in every part ; and great plenty of frefli water, feals, penguins, and other birds on the fliore ; but not a ftick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we obfervetl that the flood tide came from the South Eaft, running two knots, at leaft, in an hour. At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed Wednef. 25. with a gentle breeze at Weft; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quarter of a mile of the ^ndy beach at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms waa. i ^ bottom a fine dark fand. The Difcovery did not lu till two o'clock in the afternoon; when Captain ( , ., u'^ormed me, that he had narrowly efcaped being dnvu - • i i .0 South I * The obfervations of the French, round Cape Frrin^ois, remarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in tliis paragraph ; and the rocks and jflands here mcntic.icd by him, alfo appear upon their Chart. point *,, «^, :., Ifilt^' 62 A VOYAGE TO 1776. December. &*■• S' m ^h w point of the harbour, his anchor having ftarted before they had time to fliorten in the cable. This obliged them to fet fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up ; and then they found one of its palms was broken off. As ibon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoilled out ; the fliip to be moored with a kcdge anchor ; and the water-cafks to be got ready to fend on fliore. hi the mean time I landed, to look for the moll convenient fpot \\'hcre they might be filled, and to fee what elfe the place afforded. I found the fhore, in a manner, covered with penguins and other birds, and feals. Thefe latter were not nume- rous, but fo infenfible of fear (which plainly indicated that they were vmaccuftomed to fuch viliters), that we killed as many as we chofe, for the fake of their fat or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other ufes. Frefli water vis in no lefs plenty than were birds ; for e>'ery gully afforded a large ftream. B\it not a iingle tree or llirub, nor the lealt fign of any, was to be difcovered, and but very little herb- age of any fort. The appearances, as we failed into the harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting with fomething confiderabie growing here, as we obferved the fides of many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now foi:nd that this was occafioned by a llngle plant, which, with the other natural produdions, (liall be defcribed in another place. Before I returned to my fliip, I afcendcd the firft ridge of rocks, which rife in a kind of amphithe- atre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the country ; but before I reached the top, there came on fo thick a fog, that I could hardly find my way down again. In the evening, we hauled the feine at ■n THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 63 rl 1776. December. at the head of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen fmall fifli. We had no better fuccefs next day, when we tried with hook and line. So that our only refource here, for frefli provifions, were birds, of which there was an in- exhauftible ftore. The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. How- Thurfday 26. ever, we went to work to fill water, and to cut grafs for our cattle, which we found in fmall fpots near the head of the harbour. The rain which fell, fwelled all the rivulets to fuch a degree, that the fides of the hills, bounding the har- bour, feemed to be covered with a flieet of water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fifl\ires and crags of the rocks that compofed the interior parts of the hills, and was pre- cipitated down their fides in prodigious torrents. The people having wroiight hard the two preceding days, and nearly completed our water, which wc filled from a brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of refi:, to celebrate Chriftmas. Upon this Friday 27, indulgence, many of them went on fliore, and made excur- fions, in different directions, into '.he country, which they found barren and defolute in the higheft degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fattened with fome wire to a projedling rock on the North fide of the harbour. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following infcription : 'A' # 1 ^' . ?■■■ ■ ;?■ ■ . ■ i' Ludovico ?K- r\ 4 1 4'"*'^ 64 1776. December. Ul A V O Y A G E TO Luiiovico XF GaWarum regey et d. ••'• de Boynes regi a Secret is ad res marit'imos annis 1772 et From this infcription, it is clear, that we were not the firft Europeans who had been in this harbour. I i'uppoied it to be left by Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, who went on fliore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the fame day that Monlieur de Kerguelcn difcovered this land; as ap- pears by a Note in the French Chart of the Southern He- mifphcre, publiflied the following year +. As * The (tl)^ no doubt is a coiuiaiSlion of die word Domino, The French Secretary of the Marine was then Monfieur de Boynes. f On perufing this paragraph of the Journal, it will be natural to afk, How could Mon- fieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an infcription, which, upon the very face of it, commemorates a tranfa£lion of tiic following year ? Captain Cook's manner of cxprefling himfelf here, ftrongly marks, that he made this fuppofition, only for want of information to enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had vi- lilcd this land a fecond time ; and, reduced to the neceflity of trying to accommodate what he faw himfelf, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds a tranfaiSion whicli we, who have been better inftrufted, know, for a certainty, belongs to the fecond X'oy.ige, with a fimilar one, which his Chart of the Southern Hemifphere has recorded, and which happened in a different year, and at a different place. The bay, indeed, in which Monfieur de Boifguehenneu landed, is upon the Weft fide of tlii-> land, confiderably to the South of Cape Louis, and not far from another more Southerly promontory, called Cupe Bourbon ; a part of tlie coaft which our fhips were not upon. Its fituation is marked upon our Chart ; and a particular view of the bay ilu Lion Marin (for fo Boifguehenneu called it), with the foundings, is preferved by Kcrguelen. But if the bottle and infcription found by Captain Cook's people were not left here by Boifguehenneu, by vvhoir and when were they left ? This we learn moll fatisfaiSorily, from the accimit^ of Kerguelcn's fecond Voyage, as publiihcd by himfelf and Monfieur de Hages, which prcfeiit us with the following particulars : 1 hat they arrived on the Weft r.Je of this land on the i4tli of December 1773 ; that, ftcering to the North Eaft, they 1-4 if THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 6S As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I 1776. wrote on the other fide of the parchment, Naves Refolution et Difcovery ' ' ' de Rege Magna Britannia^ ■ '■;: <: Decembris 1776. December. ■ m I t I then put it again into a bottle, together with a filver two- penny piece of 1772 ; and having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, I placed it, the next morning, in Saturday 28. a pile of ftones eredled for the purpofe, upon a little emi- nence on the North fliore of the harbour, and near to the place they difcovered, on the i6th, the Ijle de Reunion, and the other fmall ifland' as mentioned above ; that, on the 17th, they had before them the pruicipal land (which they were furc was conne£ted with that feen by them on the 14th), and a high point of that land, named by them Cape Francois ; that beyond this Cape, the coaft took a South Eafterly direc- tion, and behind it they found a bay, called by them Bale de I'Oifeau, from the name of their frigate ; that they then endeavoured to enter it, but were prevented by contrary winds and blowing weather, which drove them off tlie coaft Eaftward; but that, at laft, on die 6th of January, Monfieur de Rofncvet, Captain of the Oifeau, was able to fend his boat on (hore into this bay, under the command of Monfieur de Rochegude, one of his officers, who took pojfejjtor of that bay, and of all the country, in the name of the King of France, with all the requif'e formalitiis," Here then we tr.ice, bv tb'; moft unexceptionable evidfince, the hiftory of the bottle and infcription ; tiic leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the requifitc formalities ob- ferved by Monfieur de Rochegude on this occafion. And though he did not land till fhe 6t]i of January 1774, yet, as Kcrguelen's (hips arrived upon the coaft on the 14th of December 1773, and had oifcovered and looked into this very bay on the 17th of that month, it was with the ftrideft propriety and truth that 1773, and not 1774, was men- tioned as the date oi ihe difcovcr}'. We need only look at Kcrguelen's and Cook's Charts, to judge that the Baie de rOifeau, and the harbour where the French infcription was found, i^ one and tl)c fime place. But befides this agreement as to the general pofition, the fame concKifmn refults more decifively ftill, from another tircumftance worth mentioning : The French, as well Vol. I. K as : I Ah '■• '-ill. 66 t776. December. iPl ' A VOYAGE TO place where it was firft found ; in which pofition it cannot ef tape the notice of any European, whom chance or defign may bring into this port. Here I difplayed the Britifli flag, and named the place Cbri/imas Harboury from otir having arrived in it on that feltival. It is the firft, or northemmoft inlet that we meet with on the South Eaft fide of Cape St. Louis *, which forms the f " orth fide of the harbour, and is alfo the Northern point of this land. The fituation alone is fufficient to diftinguifh it from any of the other inlets ; and, to make it more remark- able, its South point terminates in a high rock, which is perforated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We law none like this upon the whole coaft t. The harbour as the Knglifti vifitcrs of this bay and harbour, have given us a particular Plan , and whoever compares ours, publifhed in this Volume, with that to be met wit' ^ue- len's and de Pagcs's Voyages, muft be ft ruck with a refemblance that could only \ii o- duced by copying one common original with fidelity. Nay, even the foundings are the fame upon the fame fpots in both Plans, being forty-five fathoms between the two Cap«s, before the entrance of the bay j fixteen fathoms farther in, where the ftiores begin to con- trail ; and eight fathoTis up, near the bottom of the harbour. To thefc particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of our Author's Journal, I (hall only add, that the diftance of our harbour from that where Boifguehenneu landed in 1772, is forty leagues. For this wc have the authority of Kerguelen, in the following pafl'age : " Monfieur de Boifguehenneu defcendit le 13 de Fevrier 1772, dans un bale, " qu'il nomme Bale du Lion Marin, & prit pofleffion de cctte terre au nom de Roi ; i! " n'y vit aucune trace d'habitants. Monfieur de Rochegude, en 1774, a dcfcendu danj " un autre biiie, que noiij avons nomme Baie de I'Oifeau, & cette feconde rade ell a qua- " rantes lieues de la premiere. II en a egalement pris pofleflion, & il n'y trouva egale- " ment aucune trace d'habifrits." Kcrguekn^ p. 92. * Cape Francois, for reafons already alTigned. t If there could be the leaft doubt remaining of the identity of the Baie de I'Oifeau, and Chriftmas harbour, the circumftancc of the perforated rock, v/hich divides it from another bay to the South, would amount to a ftridt dcmonftration. P'or Mooifieur de Pages had obfervcd this difcriniinating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as follows : " L'on vit que la cote de I'Eft, voifine du Cap Fran9ois, avoit deux baies ; « clles THE PACIFIC OCEAN. «7 harbour has another diftingiiifliing mark within, from a 7778. fingle ftone or rock, of a vaft fize, which lies on the top of ^^' -^"^ a hill on the South fide, nei'.r its bottom ; and oppolite this, on the North fide, there is another hill, much like it, but fmaller. There is a Imall beach at its bottom, where we commonly landed; and, behind it, fome gently rifing ground ; on the top of which is a large pool of frelh water. The land on both fides of the inlet is high, and it runs in Weft, and Weft North Weft, about two miles. Its breadth is one mile and a (juarter, for more than half its length ; above which it is only half a mile. The depth of water, which is forty "five fathoms at the entrance, varies, as we proceed farther in, from thirty, to five and four fathoms, as marked upon the Plan. The lliores are fteep ; and the bottom is every where a fine dark fand, except in fome places clofe to the lliore, where the, ^ are beds of lea-weed, which always grows t)n rocky groun. The head of the harbour lies open only to two points of the compafs ; and even thefe are covered by illands in the ofling, fo that no fea can fall in to hmut a Ihip. The appearances on fiiore confirmed this ; for we found grafs growing clofe to high- water mark, whici) is a iure fign of a pacific harbour*. It " dies etoient feparees par une pointc tth reconnoifllible par fa forme-, qui repreftntoit unt " porti- cocl)ere, an travin de Uiquellel'on voyoit le jour.'" Voyages du M. tie Pages, Vol. ii. p. 67. K very cue knows how exaftly the form ?•( THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 69 1776. December. of the iflands lying off it. But, when I got up, I found every diftant object below me hid in a thick fog. The land on the fame plain, or of a greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared naked and defolate in the higheft degree ; except fome hills to the Southward, which were covered with fnow. When I got on board, I found the launch hoifted in, the fliips unmoored, and ready to put to fea ; but our failing was deferred till five o'clock the next morning, when we Sunday 29, weighed anchor. C H A ]\ V H A VOYAGE r O CHAP. V. 4 1776. December. Departure *)om Cbrijlmas Harbour.'— Range along the Coafl-, to difcover its Pofition and Extent. — Several Promontories and Bays-, and a Peninfula, defcribed and named. — Danger frofn Shoals. -^Another Harbour and a Sound. — Mr. An- derfon''s Obfervations on the natural P rod utf ions ^ Animals^ Soil, ^c. of Kerguelen's Land. AS Ibon as the fliips were out of Chrillmas Harbour, we fleered South Ealt { South, along the coaft, with a Sunday 29. fine brecze at North North Weft, and clear weauier. This we thought the more fortunate, as^ for fome time paft, fogs had prevailed, more or lefs, every day ; and the continu- ance of them would have defeated our plan of extending Kerguelen's difcovery. We kept the lead conftantly go- ing ; but feldom ftruck ground with a line of fifty or fixty fathoms. About feven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which I called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the South point of Chriftmas Harbour, in the dirc<5lion of South Eaft \ South. Betw ten them is a bay with two arms, both of which feemed to afford good flielter for fhipping. CHt" Cai')e Cumberland is a fmall but pretty high illand, on the fvuumit of which is a rock like a fen- try-box, \Nhich nrhood of Chriftmas Harbour. We 71 1776. D«c«inb*r. ■:■ -' ; '1 :M 'i 72 1776, December. A VOYAGE TO We had kept, on our larboard bow, the land which firft opened otf Cape St. Louis*, in the diredtion or South 53" Eall, thinking that it was an illand, ^ ;• , hat we flioiUd find a paffage between it and the main. We now difcovcred this to be a mirtake ; and found that it was a peninlula, joined to the rell of the coaft by a low iithmus. 1 called the bay, formed by this peninfula, RepiiJfe Bay ; and a branch of it feemed to run a good way inland towards the South South Well. Leaving this, we fteered for the Northern point of the pcninfida, which we named Howe's Foreland^ in honour of Admiral Lord Howe. As we drew near it, we perceived fome rocks and break- ers near the North Weft part; and two illands a league and a half to the Eaftward of it, which, at firft, appeared as one. I fteered between them and the f'orelandf, and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time our latitude, by obfervation, was 48" 51' South; and we had made twenty-fix miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis \. From this fituation, the moft advanced land to the South- ward bore South Eaft ; but the trending of the coaft from the Foreland was more Southerly. The illands which lie off Chriftmas Harbour bore North ; and the North point of the Foreland, North 60" Weft, diftant three miles. The land I'"; * CiiiK Francois. t Though Kerguclen's ftiips, in 1773, did not venture to explore this part of the coaft, Moiifieur de Pages's account of it anfwcrs well to Captain Cook's. " Du 17 " au 23, Ton ne prit d'autrc connoiflance que celk- de la figure de la cote, qui, couraiU " d'abord au Sud-Ell, ii rcvcnant enfuite au Nord-Eft, formoit un grand goifc. II ctoit " occupc par des brifaiis & dcs rothers ; il avoit aufli une iflc bafle, & afTez etendue, & " Ton ufa d'unc bien foigncufe prcc.wtion, pour ne pas s'aft'alcr dans ce golfe." Foya^e du M. de Pagh^ Tom. ii. p. 67. X Cape Fraji^'ois. of \T THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of this Pcninfula, or Foreland, is of a moderate height, and of a hilly and rocky luhilancc. The coaft is low, with rocky points fhootinc; out from it ; between which ixnius are little coves, with Inndy beaches ; and thcfe, at this time, were mollly covered \\ith fea birds. We alfo Hiw upon them fome feals. As foon as wc were clear of the rocks and iflands before mentioned, ;, e orders to fteer South Eaft by South, alo' ■ the court. II fore thefe orders could be carried int'» ' ,v- caution, ' '-^d the whole fea before us to 1 .it - (piered wi Js of rock-weed, which we knew to be fart to the .. ai, and to grow on rocky flioals. I had often found a great depth of water on fuch (hoals ; and 1 had, as often, found rocks that have raifed their heads nearly to the fiirface of the water. It is always dangerous, therefore, to fiiil over them before they are well examined ; but more efpeciaUy, when there is no furge of the fea to difcover the danger. This was the cafe at prefent, for the fea was as fmooth as a mill-pond. Confequently we endea- voured to avoid them, by fleering through the winding channels by w hich they were feparated. We kept the lead continually going ; but never ftruck ground with a line of fixty fathoms. This circumftance increafed the danger, as we could not anchor, whatever necelTity there might be for it. After running in this manner above an hour, we difco- vered a lurking rock, juft even with the furface of the fea. It bore North Eaft i Eaft, diftant three or four miles, and lay in the middle of one of thefe large beds of weeds. This was a fufficient warning to make us ufe every precaution to prevent our coming upon them. We were now crofs the mouth of a large bay, that lies about eight miles to the Southward of Howe's Foreland. In Vol. I. L and 7.i 1776. December. :m 'n I i{ ^, inS> ^vv> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /.Q «. .V^fe 1.0 I.I 1^128 |2.5 £ li£ 12.0 u "« i .25 i 1.4 IE 1.6 7 f Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, NY. M5S0 (716) 873-4503 m \ :\ \ ?v ... 1^ <*. o^ ^'h'- t/. ^° 74 A VOYAGE TO 1776. December. !| 11 ■■'*' ■ f ^- 1 i y ,; ■ 1 i ri' iiil li' 'd ■ 4' ■vS'' I'- and before the entrance of this bay are feveral low iflands, rocks, and thofe beds of fea-weed. But there feemed to be winding channels between them. After continuing our courfe half an hour longer, we were fo much embarraffed with thefe fhoals, that I refolved to haul off to the Eaft- ward, as the likelieft means of extricating ourfelves from the danger that threatened us. But ib far was this from anfwering the intended purpofe, that it brought us into more. I therefore found it abfolutely neceffary to fecure the Ihips, if poffible, in fome place before night ; efpecially as the weather had now become hazy, and a fog was ap- prehended. And feeing fome inlets to the South Weft of us, I ordered Captain Gierke, as the Difcovery drew lefs water than the Refolution, to lead in for the fhore ; which was accordingly done. In ftanding in, it was not poffible to avoid running over the edges of fome of the Ihoals, on which we found from ten to twenty fathoms water ; and the moment we were over, had no ground at the depth of fifty fathoms. After making 1 few boards to weather a fpit that run out from an illand on our lee, Gaptain Gierke made the fignal for having difcovered an harbour ; in which, about five o'clock, we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand, about three quarters of a mile from the ihore ; the North point of the harbour bearing North by Eaft i Eart, one mile diftant ; and the fmall illands in the entrance, within which we anchored, extending from Eaft to South Eaft. Scarcely were the fhips fecured, when it began to blow very ftrong ; fo that we thought it prudent to ftrike top* gallant yards. The weather, however, continued fair ; and the wind difperfing the fog that had fettled on the hills, it I was THE PACIFIC OCEAN. was tolerably clear alfo. The moment, therefore, we had anchored, I hoifted out two boats ; in one of which I fent Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, to furvey the upper-part of the har- bour, and look, for wood ; for not a fhrub was to be feen from the Ihip. I alfo defired Captain Gierke to fend his Mafter to found the channel that is on the South fide of the fmall illes, between them and a pretty large illand which lies near the South point of the harbour. Having given thefe dire '■' Soon after, Mr. Bligh returned, and reported, that he had' been four miles up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far from the head of it. He found that its diredlion was Weft South Weft ; and that its breadth, a little above the (hips, did not exceed a mile ; but grew narrower toward the head. The foundings were very irregular, being from thirty-feven to ten fathoms ; and, except under the beds of fea-weed, which in many places extended from the fliore near half channel over, the bottom was a fine fand. He landed on both fhores, which he found barren and rocky, without the leaft figns of tree or (hrub, and with very little verdure of any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds and feals, oc- cupied part of the coaft ; but not in fuch nur s as at Chriflmas Harbour. Finding no encouragement to continue our refearches, Monday 30. and, the next morning, both wind and weather being fa- vourable, I weighed anchor and put f? fea. To this harbour I gave the name of Port Pallifer^ in honour of my worthy friend Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer. It is fituated in the lati- tude of 49° 3' South, in the longitude of 69° 37' Eaft, and five leagues from Howe's Foreland, in the diredion of South 25° Eaft. There are feveral iflands, rocks, and breakers lying THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 77 lying in and without the entrance, for which the annexed Chart of the coaft, and fketch of the harbour, may be con- fulted. We went in and out between them and the North head ; but I have no doubt that there are other channels^ As we were Handing out of Port Pallifer, we difcovered a round hill, like a fugar-loaf, in the direction of South 72° Eaft, about nine leagues diflant. It had the appearance of an illand lying at fome diftance from the coaft ; but we af- terward found it was upon the main land. In getting out to fea, we had to fteer through the winding channels amongft the Ihoals. However, we ventured to run over fome of them, on which we never found lefs than eighteen fathoms, and often did not ftrike ground with twenty-four ; fo that, had it not been for the fea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been difcovered. After we had got about three or four leagues from the coaft, we found a clear fea, and then fteered Eaft till nine o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore South Eaft, and a fmall ifland that iies to the Northward of it, South South Eaft, diftant four leagues. I now fteered more Southerly, in or- der to get in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was 49° 8' South ; and we had made eighty miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis *. Mount Campbell bore South 47° "W eft, diftant about four leagues ; a low point, beyond which no land was to be feen, bore South South Eaft, at the diftance of about twenty miles ; and we were about two leagues from the ft«.ore. The land here is low and level +. about * Cape Francois. t This part of the coaft feems to be what the French faw on the 5th of January 1 774. Moiifieur de Pages fpeaks of it thus : " Nous recomiumes une nouvelle cote etendue de " toutt December; The mountains endincr • i ', j • ■ .'Mi 'I ■'i u ; i:':. 78 A VOYAGE TO December. :|. I \m lli, about five leagues from the low point, a great extent of low land is left, on which Mount Campbell is fituated, about four miles from the foot of the mountains, and one from the fea coaft. Thefe mountains have a confiderable eleva- tion, as alfo moft of the inland ones. They feemed to be compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were capt with Inow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we directed our glaffes, nothing but iterility was to be feen. We had fcarcely finilhed taking the bearings at noon, before we obferved low land opening off the low point jult mentioned, in the diredlion of South South Eaft, and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very Eaftern extremity of this land, and it was named Cape Dig- by. It is lituated in the latitude of 49° 23' South, and in the longitude of 70° 34' Eaft. Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, ihe fliore forms (befides the feveral leffer bays and harboiu's) one great bay that extends feveral leagues to the South Weft, where it feemed to lofe itfelf in various arms running in between the moimtains. A prodigious quantity of fea- weed grows all over it, which feemed to be the fame fort of weed that Mr. Banks diftinguiflied by the name oi fucus giganteus^'. Some of this weed is of a moft enormous length, though the ftem is not much thicker than a man's thumb. I have mentioned, that on fome of the flioals upon which it grows, we did not ftrike ground with a line of twenty-four fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, muft have been " toute veu dans I'Eft, & dans le Oueft. LeS terres de cette cote etoient moins elcvees " que celles que nous avioiis veues jufques ici ; elles etoient auiB d'un afpedl moins rude." De Pages, Tom. ii. p. 68. • See Hawkefwortb's Collcflion of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 42. greater. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 79 greater. And as this weed does not grow in a perpendicu- 1776. lar direction, but makes a very acute angle with the hot- ^^*"°*'*'^; torn, and much of it afterward fpreads many fathoms on the furface of the fea, I am well warranted to fay, that fome of it grows to the length of fixty fathoms and up- ward. - At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a South Eaft i Eaft courfe, from noon) we founded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine fand. Seeing a fraall bending in the coaft, on the North fide of Cape Digby, I fleered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, if 1 fliould And it might be done with fafety, and to land on the Cape, to examine what the low land within it pro- duced. After running in one league, we foimded again, and found thirteen fathoms ; and immediately after, faw a fhoal right before us, that feemed to extend oflf from the fliore, from which we were diflant about two miles. This difcovery obliged us to haul off, Eaft by South, one league, where our depth of water increafed to twenty-five fathoms. We then fleered along fhore, and continued in the fame depth, over a bottom of fine fand, till Cape Digby bore Wefl, two leagues diflant, when we found twenty-fix fa- thoms. After this we did not flrike ground, though we tried feveral times ; but the fhip having a good deal of way, ran the line out before the lead could reach the bottom ; and being difappointed in my views both of anchoring and of landing, I would not fhorten fail, but pufhed forward, in order to fee as much of the coatl as poffible before night. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly South Wefl by South for about four or five leagues, or to a low point, to which, ill !-;l:; ff 8o A VOYAGE TO 1776. December. f \ "^ t M' ' , M ■ ^ *■ F ; ^' ' r.i J-; ill honour of her Majefty, I gave the name of Pomf Char- hti€y and it is the Southe -nmoft on the low coaft. .. Six leagues from Gape Digby, in the diretStion of Sovitli South Weft \ Weft, is a prettv high proje.v'^ '--.t^s:" 99 |':| (1 ■• "r 1 1 : ,■; ,. m (5 : i' "' n ! HI I ;,' ' Ufa ^" December. ''/ A VOYAGE TO i fecms to have been the cafe when Captain Fumeaux pafTed it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather ; on the contrary, it exprefsly tells us, that, when in this fituation, they had it in their power to make obfer- vations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his (hip ; fo that, if this land extends farther South than Cape George, it would have been fcarcely poflible that he Ihould have pafled without feeing it. ^^.u*. i^ui^&i ^.. u.. i^^iiu.-.^h .^.J . From thefe circumftances we are able to determine, within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies ; which does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from Eaft to Weft, that ftill remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 65°; becaufe, in 1773, under that meridian, I fearched for it in vain *. The French difcoverers, with fome reafon, imagined Cape St. Louis + to be the proje<5ling ix)int of the Southern conti- nent. ■ 'A * If the French obfervations, as marked upon Captain Cook's Chart, and ftill more authentically upon that publifhed by their own difcoverers, may be depended upon, this land doth not reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 68°; Cape Louis, which is reprefentcd as its moft Wefterly point, being laid down by them to the Eaft of that meridian. + The idea of Cape Louis being this projc(£ting point of a Southern continent, muft have foon vaniflied, as Cape Francois, within a year after, was found, by the fame difco- vercr, to lie above one third of a degree farther North upon the fame land. But if Ker- guelen entertained any fuch imagination at Arft, we are fure that, at prefent, he thinks very differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of his fentiments, which defervcs to be tranfcribed from his late publication, as it docs equal honour to his candour, and to Captain Cook's abilities. " La terre que j'ai decouverte eft certainc- " ment une IJle; puifque le c61ebre Capita ie Cook a pafle au Sud, lors de fon premiere " voyage, fans rien rencontrer. Je juge memc, que cette iflc n'rfi pat Hen grandi. II y ** a auffi appareoce, d'apres le Voyage de Monficur Cook, que toute cette etendue de " Mcrs '•tj.. lU ¥/' I'llli r \ii .\ .7 .\l I Iii'il 1 '( li II (,.'// /i/' — r*wv.. •A i !•/. •//, ,v ; ; 1 1 ' r i^.. ii%»l,». HV iljr.l I ullH ..'/.■ hl'l^'t r> I \ v I. t.\ /'. ,\i' !m '■! r.'iiit A,//..' .V''.' • ///,'/. ,/.■■.'.//// '. : ■ I J : ■■. ^ /'"■/./.• Av// .,/•./,// mmmimm wmm WSilffml^ mil. MMl««i«a>^ '-^fg^^W /r.. // ii ^ m .J !,:«■ .; > I .^ y ■" , ffii m H *!•( -a«2SiiS^^K' vv ...jlS^i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. nent. The Englifti have fince proved that no fuch continent exifts ; and that the land in queftion is an ifland of no great extent*; which, from its fterility, I fhould, with great pro- priety, call the IJland of Defolation, but that I would not rob Monfieur de, Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name +. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, as I have already men- " Mere Meridionales, eft femce d'Ifles ou de rochers ; mais qu'il n'y a nl continent ni " grandt terrt." Kerguelen, p. 92. * Kerguelen, as we fee in the laft Note, concurs witli Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reafon to believe that it is about two hundred leagues ia circuit; and that he was acquainted with about fourfcore leagues of its coaft. " J'en " connois environs quatre-vit<^t iieues des cotes ; et j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle a environ " deux cents Iieues de circuit.*' Kerguelen^ ibid. t Some of Monfieur de Kerguelen's own countrymen feem more defirous than wc are, to rob him of this honour. It is very remarkable that Monfieur de Pages never once mentions the name of his commander. And, though he takes occafion to enumerate the fcveral French explorers of the Southern Hemifphere, from Gonneville down to Crozet, he affects to preferve an entire fdence about Kerguelen, whofe firft voyage, in which the difcovery of this confiderable trad ofland was made, is kept as much out of fight, as if it never had taken place. Nay, not fatisfied with refufing to acknowledge the right of an- other, he almoft alTumes it to himfelf. For upon a Map of the World, annexed to his book, at the fpot where the new land is delineated, we read this inlcripr'on ; Ij!cs nouvclki Aujirales vuees par Monfieur dt Paghf en 1774. He could fcarcely have exprefled himfelf in ftronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the conductor of the difco- very. And yet we know, that he was only a Lieutenant [Enfeigne de vaiueau] on board one of the three Ihips commanded by Kerguelen ; and that the difcovery had been already made in a former voyage, undertaken while he was aftually engaged in his fingular jour- ney round the world. After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen was peculiarly unfortunate, in having done fo little to complete what he had begun. He difcovered a new land indeed} but, in two expeditions to it, he could not once bring his fhips to an anchor upon any part of its coafts. Captain Cook, as we have feen in this, and in the foregoing Chapter, had either fewer difficulties to ftruggle with, or was more fuccefsful in furmounting tliem. 83 1776. December. fS ^1 ^ ilp |H| t : ^'. lij '■'M 1*1 iM Mil " M 2 tioned, I 'I 1 84 1776. Dcceokbcr, A VOVAGE TO tioned, had made Natural Hiftory a part of his ftudies, loft no opportunity, during the Ihort time we lay in Chriftmas Harbour, of fearching the country in every diredlion. He afterward communicated to me the obfervations he made on its natural productions ; and I fhall infert them here in his own words. " Perhaps no place, hitherto difcovered in either hemi- fphere, under the fame parallel of latitude, affords fo fcanty a field for the naturalift as this barren fpot. The verdure which appears, when at a little diftance from the fhore, would flatter one with the expecSlation of meeting with fome herbage ; but in this we were much deceived. For on landing, we faw that this lively colour was occafioned only by one fmall plant, not much uitlike fome forts of faxifrage, which grows in large fpreading tufts, to a con- fiderable way up the hills. It forms a furface of a pretty large texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into which one finks a foot or two at every ftep. This turf, dried, might, in cafes of neceflity, ferve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with here that could poflibly be applied to this ufe. There is another plant, plentifidly enough fcattered about the boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and not much unlike a fmall cabbage, when it has (hot into feeds. The leaves about the root are nume- rous, large, and roundefl; narrower at the bafe, and ending in a fmall point. Thofe on the ftalks are much fmaller, oblong, and pointed. The ftalks, which are often three or four, all rife feparately from the root, and run into long cylindiical heads, compofed of fmall flowers. It has not only the appearance, but the watery acrid tafte of the anti- fcorbutic THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 8S fcorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from the whole tribe ; fo that we looked upon it as a produ^ion entirely peculiar to the place. We eat it frequently raw, and found it almoft Hke the New Zealand fcurvy-grafs. But it feemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled ; which, however, fome of our people did not perceive, and efteemed it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens, it would, in all probability, improve fo far by cultivation, as to be an excellent pot-herb. At this time, none of its feeds were ripe enough to be preferved, and brought home, to try the experiment. Two other fmall plants were found near the brooks and boggy places, which were eaten as fallad ; the one almoft like garden crefles, and very fiery ; and the other very mild. This laft, though but fmall, is in itfelf a curiofity ; having not only male and female, but what the botanifts call an- drogynous plants. A coarfe grafs, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots about the fides of the harbour, with a fmaller fort which is rarer; and, upon the flat ground, a fort of goofe-grafs, and another fmall plant much like it. In fliort, the whole catalogue of plants does not exceed fixteen or eighteen, including fome forts of mofs, and a beautiful fpecies of lichen, which grows upon the rocks, higher up than the reft of the vegetable produc- tions. Nor is there even the leaft appearance of a flinib in the whole country. Nature has rather been more bountiful in farnifliing it with animals ; though, ftrif *..(/,< .V.VAjV. .////.i/i/ 'mill.' IViivmlii lll.iii.l View .;/ /A, /..l.v/ nul.'il f.ll.i. „/„., IVn^iiiii lll.iii.l /. Wl-I.ir , i „i,l, ,ll//,l„l '^,//„„i .: , JkLu t') M—ll.,,,, IV. In. »l.ui«. -, K.lilvllo •;.^"n> 1 1 'I 1 4-i - -^i-'-^i^S^ : ' ■■ ;.LJ:t m|7 -i-'-i f 1 M-i-i- ,t I „ I »17 _______ PpTt^PB^^ t -! Ill t-TrT i|.*■• V ^ IVii^iiit lll.iiiil lb*- ■ < ^* ^ ' v ' fflfhuti ..' ''/«(. i.v/w/..'//;.v.< /,.i.Y/» ■i.,„tl..I.^1I..Ml Sniilll ('.III! ..//..' S»illv ».'//. .VIV.-111I1 ' I/"" j-i.- I'.i ,1 -L-L-x irt I "n7j__L_i_. -H-?^ 'l,«" 4-' r -tI =E5?^j^" "Sr-.'nrilj H,irnutTj,-njtt Ol -{-T I I M^HiKAW ^ l»«, • \ Vi»w .y V.t.y DlfMt.iy A.I *l> .•».>• riiili-.l I .•*.r'. ■3 > ■-> Virw ../ <*. t.l.T/i Kliili'.l t'.l| A. ^]n Vu'w '/ iM.> liit,Mi.y'.i A.i.Y/i «/« S W ( .S ^^H| , « 1 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 0' CHAP. VI. Pajfii^e from Ker^uelcrCs to Van Diemcn^s Land.-- rrivnl in Adventure Bay. — Incidents tbere.'-'Interviezvs ivith the :Iatives. — Their Perfons and Drefs dvkribed.— Account of fbcir Behaviour. — Table of the Lonjritiidei Latitude^ and Variation. — ^fr. Anderfon's Ohfcrvations on the natural Prodtitiions of the Country^ on the Inhabitants^ and their Langna^^e. AFTER leaving Kcrguclen's Land, I ftccrvc' Ealt by 1-7^.. North, intending, in obedience to my inftrucHons, to ^^"'^^'"^-"''•^ touch next at New Zealand ; to recruit our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number, by this time, had bctii confiderably diminilhed; two voung bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and feveral of the goats having of late died, while we were employed in expl )ring this defolate coall. The 3x11 in the morning, being the day after we itood Tucfdavji out to fea, we had feveral obfervations of the fun uid moon. Their refults gave the longitude 72" 33' 36" l-alt. The time-keeper, in this fituatitMi, gave 'j'f 38' 15 '. Th I'iii obfervations were the more ufeful, as we had not b( n al)lc to j^et any for fonie time before, and they now fcr\ d to afl'urc us that no material error had crept into the tinu- kcepcT. On tlic III of January, being then in the latitude of 48° 41 ' \Vc'j'"c N 2 South, janii.iry. 1. 92 A VOYAGE TO f anuar\ . Thurldijr J. ^uefday ; Siiiii. South, longitude 76^ 50' Eaft, the variation was 30" 39' Weft ; and the next day, in the latitude of 48'' 22' South, longitude 80° 22 Eaft, it was 30" 47' 18' Weft. This was the greatcft variation we found in this paflage ; for afterward it began Friday 3. to dccTcafc, hut fo flowlv, that on the 3d, in the evening, being then in tlie latitude of 48 16 South, longitude 85' Eaft, it was 29" 38 Weft. Thus far we had frcfli gales from the Weft and South Weft, and tolerably dear weather. But now the wind veered to the North, where it continued eight days, and was at- tended with a thick, fog. During this time, we ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. Now and then the wea- ther would clear up, and give us a light of the fun ; but this happened very feldom, and was always of fhort conti- nuance. On the 7th, I hoifted out a boat, and fent an or- der to Captain Gierke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of fepa- ration before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, amidft all this foggy weather, by frequently firing guns as fignals, though we feldom faw each other, not to lofe company. On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48° 40' South, lon- gitude 110° 26' Eaft, the Northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a few hours, was fucceeded by a w iiid from the Southward. This, with rain, continued for twenty-four hours ; when it freftieiied, and veered to the Weft and North Weft, and brought on fair and dear Aveather. We continued oiu' co\irle to the Eaftwanl, without meet- ing with any thing worthy of notice, till lour o'clock in the morning of the 19th; when, in a iudden r ./ 96 I,inu.irv. Puefdav iS. r lis; A VOYAGE TO nfterward viiitetl all the parties myfelf. In the evening, we drew the feinc at the head of the bay, and, at one haid, taught a great (]iiantity of filh. We flioidd have got many more, had not the net broken in drawing it afliore. Moll of them were of that fort known to feamen l)y the name of elephant filli. After this, every one repaired on board with what wood and grafs we had cut, that we might be ready to fail whenever the wind Ihoidd ferve. This not hapj-)ening next morning, the people were fent on Ihore again, on the fame duty as the day before. I alio employed the carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut fome Ipars for the ufe of the Ihip ; and tlifpatched Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, in a i'mall l)oat to furvey the bay. In the afternoon, we were agreeably furprifed, at the place where we were cutting wood, with a vifit from fome of the natives ; eight men and a boy. They ap- proached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatelt confidence imaginable ; for none of them had any weapons, except one, who held in his hand a Itick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; un- lefs we confider as fuch, and as a proof of their love of finery, fome large pundlures or ridges railed on different parts of their bodies, fome in itraight, and others in curved lines. They were of the common ftaturc, but rather flender. Their fkin was black, and alio their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they were not diltinguiflied by remarkably thick lips, nor flat nofes. On the contrary, their features were tar from being difagree- ablc. %- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Moil of them had their hair and beards fniearcd - irh a red ointment; and lome had their faces alio painted with the iame compolition. They received everv preicnt we made to them, without the leail appearance of fatisfadtion. When Ibme bread was given, as foon as they underilood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or threw it away, without e\en tailing it. They alio refuled Ibme elephant iifli, both raw and drefl'ed, which we offered to them. But upon giving Tome birds to them, they did not return thele, and eallly made us comprehend that they were fond of fiich food. I had brought two pigs aihorc, with a view to leave them in the woods. The inilant thefe came within their reach, they feized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately ; with no other in- tention, as we coidd perceive, but to kill them. Being defirous of knowing the ufe of the Hick which one of our vifiters carried in his hand, I made iigns to them to fliew me ; and lb far fucceeded, that one of them let up a [)iece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the dillance of al)out twenty yards. But we had little reaibn to commend his dexterity ; for, after repeated trials, he was Hill very wide from the obje<5l. Omai, to fliew them how much iu- perior our weapons were to theirs, then lired his mufquet at it ; which alarmed them fo much, that notwithllanding all we could do or lay, they ran inllantly into the woods. One of them was lb frightened, that he let drop an axe and two knives, that had been given to him. From us, how- ever, they went to the ])lace where lome of the Dii'covery's people were emplovcd in taking water into their boat. The ollicer of that patty, not knowing that they liad paid us fo Vol-. I. t) tViciitlh 97 V77- January. \ v» A VOYAGE TO ir Mo lanuary. k' 4. Wcdncf. 25. tVicntUy a vilit, nor wh:it their intent might be, firecl a muf- (jiict in the air, nliich Tent them off with the grcatcll pre- cipitation. Thus ended our fivi\. interview with the natives. Imme- diately after their final retreat, judging that their fears would i)revent their remaining near enough to obferve what was palling, 1 ordered the two pigs, being a boar and fow, to be carried about a mile withm the wotxis, at the head of the bay. 1 law them left there, by the fide of a frefli-watcr br(X)k. A young bull and a cow, and fome Ihecp and goats, were alio, at firit, intended to have been left by me, as an additional prelbnt to Van Diemen's I .and. But I foon laitl alide all thought of this, from a perfualion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of improving their country, would dcftroy them. If ever they ihould meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race of animals loon becomes wiki, and is fond of the thickell cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being preferved. An open j)lace muft have been chofen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in fucli a fituation, they could not pollibly have remained concealed many days. The morning of the 2gth was iilhcred in with a dead calm, which continued all day, and elfectually prevented our failing. 1 therefore lent a party over to the Eait ix)int of the bay to cut grafs; having been informetl that fome of a fuperior , th.it r/ ly.^e none that uas not mailed and filthy. ( '• ■:\ ■ w ret the s 100 januarv. A VOYAGE TO nrctchcs as tlic natives whom Dampier mentions to have Icen on its wclkrn coall '•. Sonic of our i>rcl"cnt group wore, looie, round tlieir netks, three or tour tbl from MariaN Illands, it can Ining no very great lea along with it; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a very fafe road. The lM)ttom is clean, good holding ground; and the depth ot water from twelve, to live and four fathoms. Hut the annexed Chart will convey a better idea of every thing necelfary to be known about Adventure Hay, than any dc- icription. Captain Furneaxix's Iketch of Van Diemen's Land, pid)- liflied with the Narrative of my lalt \ Dyage ■, appears to me to be w ithout any material error, except w ith regard to Ma- ria's Ulands, which have a different lituation from what is there reprelcnted. What my idea of them is, will be lien in the fketch of that coalt here inferted ; und 1 inlert it, not as the reiidt of a more faithful, but merely of a l'econ7 f\ ■ J f% mm ^» o~ 140 7 Swilly llle, - - 43 55 0- 147 6 10: 1777- Jauuar). Adventure Bav, J "^'^""^^^'"'^ "^' ^^^^^ ^^^"M^^l"^ 5^ ^5' Eaft. ■ I Dip ot the South End ot the Needle 70" 15; . We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the lall cpiarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendic ular rife then w as eighteen inches ; and there was no appearance of its having ever exceeded two feet and a half. Thele are all the memorials uleful to navigation, which my lliort Hay has enabled me to i)rei"erve, with re- fpekll to Vai\ Diemen's Land. Mr. Anderlon, my Surg'^on, with his ufual diligence, fpent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in exa- mining the country. His accoiuit of its natiual prodvu- tions with which he favoured me, will more than coni- penlate for my lileiu e about them : fonie of his remarks on the inhabitants w ill liii)ply what 1 may have omitted or rc- preleiued imperfectly ; and his i"iK'cimen of their language, lioucvcr Ihort, will be thought worth attending to, by rholc who with to collect materials for tracing the origin of na- Voi.. I. 1* tions. -.1 10() A V O Y A C^, E r O f.imi;irv. :!«■: '%i lions. I fliall onlv prcmilc, that the tall lhMi;^lu tbiclt trees, whuh Mr. Aiiderlon dcicrihes in the tbilowinu ac> count, arc ot" a ditterent fort from thole which are tbiuul in the more XoriJicrn parts of tliis coall. The wood is very long and clofe-uirained ; extremely tou_i>h ; fit for fpars, oars, and many other iiies ; and woidd, on oicalu)n, make good malls (perhaps none better), if a method could be fonnd to lighten it. " At the bottom of Adventnre Bay is a beautiful fandy beach, which feems to be wholly formed by the particles walbed by the fea from a very iine white iand-llone, that in many places bounds the Ihore, and of which Fluted Cape, in the neighboiniicM)d, from its appearance, ll'ems to be ct)mpofed. This beach is about two miles long, and is excellently adapted for hauling a feinc, which both Ibips did repeatedly with fuccefs. Behind this, is a plain or tiat, with a fait, or rather brackilli lake (rimning in length parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, with angling rods, many whitilli bream, and fome fmall trout. The other parts of tlic country adjoining the bay are (piite hilly; and hot), thole and the Hat are an entire forell of very tall trees, rendered almoll impallable by Ihrubs, brakes of fern, and fallen tree^; except on the fides of fome of the hill^, where the trees are but thin, and a coarfe grals is the only interruption. To the Northward of the bay there i'- low land, liretc hing farther than the eye can reach, which is onlv covered with wood in certain Ipots; but we had no opportunity to exa- mine in what reipects it ditliied troni the hilh countrv. The Ibil on the flat land is either landy, or conl'ills of a yellowiih moidd, and, in loine |>lace^, of a lecldith clay. The fame is found on the lower [)art of the hilK ; but farther THE PACIFIC OCEAN. f;irthcr u]"), cipcciiilly where there arc few trees, it is of a grey tou^h calt, to appearance very poor. hi the valleys hetween the hills, the water drains down from their lides ; and at lail, in fome places, forms iinall brooks ; liich indeed as m ere fufilcient to i'lipply iis witl) water, hut by no means of that fize we might expecl in ib extenlive a country, eipecially as it is both hilly and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being naturally a very dry country ; and perhaps might (inde- pendent of its wood) be com[)ared to Africa, about the Cape of CJood IIo]ie, though that lie^ ten degrees farther North- ward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other fide, in the fame latitude, where we find every valley, however fmall, fnrnilhed with a confiderable Itream of water. The heat too ai)ix;ars to be great, as the thermometer Itood at 64, 70, and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were leldom killed an hour or two, before they were almoft co- vered with iiiiall maggots, which I would rather attribute merely to the heat ; as we had not any reaibn to luppolb there is a jkc xdiar diliK)lition in the climate to render fub- fiances loon putrid. No mineral bodies, nor indeed ftones of any other fort, but the white fand one already mentioned, were obfervcd. Amongll the vegetable produdf ions, there is not one, that we could iind, which afforded the fmallelt fublirtence for man. The foreft trees are all of one fort, growing to a great height, and in general cjuite Itraight, branching but little, till toward the top. The bark is white, which makes thciu appear, at a diltance, as if they had been peeled; it is alio thick; and within it are lometimes colle»f\ed, pieces of a I' 1 redd lib 107 •777- January. .!.!> io8 A V O Y .\ C, E r o '■'■"'• l.uiuarv. J^f '/■ Mr It''* .(■ jlC'l rcddifh tranfparent gum or rclin, which has an aftringcnt talle. Tlic leaves of this tree arc long, narrow, and pointed; and it bears clufters of I'mall white flowers, whofe cups were, at this time, plentifully Icattcred about the ground, with anotlier fort reiemblinc; them fomewhat in lliape, but much larger; which makes it probable that there are two ipecies of this tree. The bark of the Imaller branches, fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent tafte, and aromatic fmell, not unlike peppermint ; and in its nature, it has fome aflinity to the nivrtus of botanills. The moll common tree, next to tliis, is a fmall one about ten feet high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, cylindrical flower, confifting only of a vait number of lilamcnts ; which, being flied, leave a fruit like a pine-top. Both the above-mentioned trees are- un- known in Europe. The underwood confifts chiefly of aflirub fomewhat re- fembling a myrtle, and which leems to be the leplojpeymum fcopariian^ mentioned in Dr. Foriter's Char. Gen. Plant. ; and, in fome places, of another, rather Imaller, which is a Yiiiw /pedes of the melateuca of Linnx'us. Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is a /pedes of ^ladiolus^ rufli, bell-fiower, famphire, a fmall fort of wood-forrcl, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears ; with a few others, peculiar to the ]>lace. There are feveral kinds of fern, as polypody, fpiecnwort, female fern, and fome nioiTes ; but \\\c /pedes arc cither ( ommon, or at lealt found in fome other countries, efpecially New Zealand. The only animal of tlic <]uadrupcd kind we got, was a fort of opoJJ'ufH., aXiowx twice the lize of a large rat; and is» nioft probably, the n)ale ot that fpicics found at Endea- VOVU' mi THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 109 vour River, as mentioned in Hawkefworth's Colledion of Voyages '■. It is of a dufky colour above, tinged with a brown or rufty caft, and whitilli below. About a third of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath ; by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs thef>i, and lives on berries. Mr. Webber's drawing will give a better idea of it than any defcription. The kari' ^ooroOf another animal found farther Northward in New Holland, as defcribcd in the fame Voyage +, without ail doubt alfo inhabits here, as the natives we met with had fomc pieces of their Ikins ; and we feveral times faw ani- mals, though indillindlly, nm from tl c thickets when we walked in the woods, which, from the lize, could be no other. It fliould feem alfo, that they are in confiderable numbers, from the dung we faw almoft every where, and from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongft the fhrubbery. There are feveral forts of birds, but all fo fcarce and fhy, that they are evidently harraflcd by the natives, who, per- haps, draw much of their fubfillence from them. In the woods, the principal forts are large brown hawks or eagles ; crows, nearly the fame as ours in England ; yellowifli pa- rocpiets ; and large pigeons. There are alfo three or four fmall birds, one of which is of the thrufli kind ; and ano- ther fmall one, with a pretty long tail, has part of the head and neck of a moft beautifid azure colour ; from whence we named it motacilla cyanea. On the fliore were feveral common and lea gulls ; a few black oyfter catchers, or fca- pies ; and a pretty plover of a itone colour, with a black hood. About the pond or lake behind the beach, a few » Vol. iji. p. 586. t Ibid. p. 577, 1777. January. i r t.. i 'v wild ::| ■/" ;i-'J, I 10 lanuan'. \ \ () Y A Ci K T O M ild (kicks were iccii ; and lume Ihngs nfcd to perch upon tlie high leaflcfs trees near the fliore. Some prettv large blackilli inakes were fecii in the woods; and we killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, hfrecn inches long and fix nnuid, clegantlv clouded with !)laik and yellow ; heluk''^ a Imall lort, of a brown gilded colcnu- al)<)ve, and rully below . The fea affords a much greater plenty, and at leall: as great a variety as tlie land. Of theic the elephant iilh, or />(^/>^r///o, mentioned in Irezier's \'ovage ••^', arc the moil numerous : and though inferior to many other lilh, were verv p:'.!atable food. Several large rays, ninies, and iinall leather-jacketN were caught; with iome fmall white bream, which were iirmer arid !>etter than thofe catight in the lake. We likewile got a few Ibles and flounders ; two fort> of gin-nards, one of theni a ncw/'/^icics; fome fmall I'potted mullet; and, very ■.'ne^.j)ecledlv, the fmall filh with a (liver ])and on it> fide, called atberina hcpjctus by Haircllack ant, the pain of whole bite is almolt intolerable, dining the fliort time it lalts. The mulquitoes, alfo, make up the defici- ency of then" number, by the feverity of their venomous probofcis. The inhabitants w bom we met with here, had little of that licrcc or wild appearance common to people in their fituation ; but, on the contrary, feemed mild and cheerful, without referve or jealouly of Grangers. This, however, may arifc from their having little to Icil'e or care for. With rcfpevil to perlbnal acfivity or genius, we can fay but httle of either. They do not feem to ix)irefs the liril in any remarkable degree; and as for the lalt, they have, to appearance, lefs than even the half-animated iniiabitants of 'I'erra del Fuego, who have not invention fuiiicient to make clothing for defending themfelves from the rigor of their III Jaiiuajy. \ • i» 5' ■!? 112 lanii.iry. 'V A V C) Y A G E TO their climate, though furnilhed with the materials. The ihiall Itick, rudely j^ointed, which one of them carried in his hand, was the only thing we law that re()ireliing any acutencfs of underlhuuling. Their colour is a dull hlack, and not (piite fo deep a.^ that of the African Negroes. It Ihould fcem alfo, that they fometimes heightened tlieir hlack colour, hy fmutting theii- hc^dies ; as a mark was left hehind on any clean fuhllance, fuch as white paper, when they handled it. Their hair, however, is perfectly woollv, and it is clotted or divided into fmall parcels, like that of the Hottentots, \\ itli the ui'c of fome fort of grcafe, mixetl with a red paint or ochro, which they fmear in great al)undancc over their heads. This practice, as fome might imagine, has not the cffedl of changing their hair into the frizzling texture we ohfervcd ; for, on examining tlie head of a hov, which appeared never to have heen fmeared, 1 found the hair to be of the fame kind. ■ ^, 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. H3 kiml. Their noll's, thc)iians. Their eyes are of a midtUing fize, with the white lefs clear than in ns ; and though not re- markably cjuick or piercing, iuch as give a frank cheerful call to the whole countenance. Their teeth are broad, but not ecpial, no^' well fet ; and, either from natvue or from dirt, not of lb true a white as is ufual among people of a black colom". Their mouths are rather wide ; but this ap- pearance leems heightened by wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in the fame manner as the hair on their heads. In other relpedl:s, they are well-proportioned; though the belly leems rather projeiling. This may be owing to the want of compreflion there, \\ hich few nations do not ufe, more or lefs. The pollure of which they feem fondell, is to ftand with one lide forward, or the upper part of the body gently reclined, and one hand grafping (acrofs the back) the oppofite arm, which hangs down by the pro- je(!:ling fide. What the ancient Poets tell us of Faufis and Safyrs living in hollow trees, is here realized. Some wretched conilruc- tions of Hicks, covered w ith bark, which do not even defcrvc the name of huts, were indeed found near the fliore in the bay ; but thefe feemed only to have been erecled for tem- porary pvn'i)oles ; and many of their largeil trees were con- verted into more comfortable habitations. Thefe had theii' trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of iix or fevcn feet ; and that they take up their abode in them I'ometimcs, was eviilent from the hearths, made of clay, to c ontain the Vol. I. Q I'nv •777- January. ' :; " r i .i'>" 114 l.iiuiary. ^i- A VOYAGE TO fire in the middle, Icavini; room for four or five ix^rfons to lit round it \ At the fame time, tliefe plates of Iheltcr arc diuahk' ; for they take care to leave one lide of the tree ft)vuid, which is fuiruient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as thofe which remain untouched. The inhabitants of this place are, doid)tlcfs, from the fam<' Itock with thofe of the Northern parts of New Hol- land. Though i'omc of the circumltances mentioned by Dampier, relative to thofe he met w ith on the Weltern coall of this country. Inch as their defective light, and want of fore teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkel worth's account of thole met with by Captain Cook on the Ealt lide, fhews alio that they ditl^er in many relpedts ; yet (till, upon the whole, 1 am jierfuaded that dillance of place, entire re- paration, diverlity of climate, and length of time, all concur- ring to operate, will account for greater dilVerenics, both as to their perri)ns and as to their cuihims, tlian really cxift hetween oui" \'an Dienien's Land natives, and thofe defcribcd by Dampier, and in C'aptain Cook's lirll voyage. This is certain, that the ligurc of one of thofe i'ccn in Endeavour River, and reprefenteil in Sidney I'arkinlbn's Journal of that voyage, very much relembles our vifiters in Adventure Hay. That there is not the like refemblance in their language, is a circumltanie that need not create any ditiicultv. For though the agreement of the languages of people living dillant from each other, may be alFumed as a ihong argu- ment for their having fprung from one common lource ; * Tafman, when in the buy of Frederick Hcnrv, adjoiiiiiij^ to Ail\'cnture Hav, found two trci one of which was two fathoms, a, id the other two fuhoms and a half in girth, and fixty <>r fixty-five feet high, from the root to the branches. Sec his yoyagc, in Hur- rU's Q,t!i\'lioiii Gimpit/r! lijition.) Vol. i. p. 326. 3 difagreemcnt iifc THE PACIFIC OCEAN. (lilagrecmcnt of language is l)y no means a proof of the contrary •''. However, we miilv nave a far more intimate acciiiaintantc with the hxnguages ipokcn here and in the more Northern parts ot New lloUand, hefore we can be warranted to pro- noiuice that they are t(nally (iitferent. Nay, we have good grounds for the oppoiite opinion ; for we h)und that the aniniid called kaii'^ooroo at Endeavour river, was known un- * Jp!! :• ^'i ' «"""* , , ••*• <■ . Sj .v 'ph m/j^ N"*- 41 ^. J 1 4^^^L « u>i V '^V '•> ,*tM ft. ^B' '*' »'jl V' '"^Mt *" *jH l^:^k '"''^K ""i tI K!: "^J wi ):'• I'l ••■ ' ,k /'*■ " i^ r» / • "■ ... * * VV'c find Mr. Andcrfon's notions or. this fubjccl conformable to thofc of Mr. Marfden, who has remarked, " that one general language prevailed (however mutilated " and changed in the coiirfc of time) throughout all this [virtion of the world, from " Madagaftar to the molt dilhint dil'tov cries Kail ward 1 of which the Malay is a di.ilctit, '• much corrupted or refined by a mixture of other tongues. This very extcnlivc funi- " larity of language indicates a common orii;inof the inh.iliitants ; hut the circumftances «« .niid progrcfs of their reparation are wrapjK-d in tiie darkell veil of oblcurity." Ilijhrf if Sumatrn^ p. 35, See alio his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, and publifhcJ in their Jiihieologlu, Vol. vi. p. 1 55 ; where hi> fentiineiits on this I'ubjecl are e;<|)ijined more at large, and illuUratcd by two Tables of toriefponding XS'yrds. r^ (^ - C II A P. ) '; ■i 4 ■ f liS A \ O Y A G E T O CHAP. VII. i-f T'/m' Pajjli:^^ from rn)i Dicwcn's Land to New Zealand, — Emplo\f}icnts in 'i^ucen Charlotte's Sound. — Tranfai- lions ■ivilb the Natives there, — hitelTv^ence about the Mafacre nf the .adventure's Boat's Cmv. — Account of the Chief ivbo headed the Parfv on that Occajioii. — Of the fjco youn;^ Men zvho embark to attend Oinai.'— Various Remarks on the Inhabitants. — /Ijlronomical and Nautical Ob/er- vations. '■" A ^ ciffhr oVIock in the mornino; of the -^othof Janmrv, t_ -,-ij -tTjL :i li.i^ht hrcL/c ipringiiii; up :^t Well, we weighed an- Thuffdayjo. t hoi", uiid put to \'c\\ tVoHi Advcntiue Hay. Soon after, the wind veered to the Southward, and increafed to a perfcdl Itorni. Its fury ahated in the evening, when it veered to the Ealt and North Eaih This gale v/as inchcated hy the barometer, for the wind no fooner began to blow, than the niernu'y in the tube began to fall. Another remarkable thing attended the coming on of this wind, whic h was very faint at firlt. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almoft intolerable. The mercury in the thermometer rofe, as it were inlhmta- neoully, from about 70 to near 90". This heat was of fo fliort a (ontinuance, that it feemed to be wafted awa\ be- fore the breeze that brought it; lo that fome on board did not perceive it. We ^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 119 February, We purfued our conrfe to the Eaftward, without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till the night hetwcen the 6th and 7th of Fcbriuiry, when a marine belonging to the Friday 7. Difcovery fell over-board, and was never feen afterward. This was the fetond misfortune of the kind that had hap- pened to Captain Clerke fmce he left England. On the loth, at four in the afternoon, we difcovered the Monday 10. land of New Zealand. The part we faw proved to be Rock's Point, and bore South Eall by South, about eight or nine leagues dillant. During this run from Van Diemen's Land, the wind, for the iirrt four or five day>, was at North Ealf, North, and North North Weft, and blew, for the moft part, a gentle breeze. It afterward veered to South Eaft, where it remained twenty-four hoius. It then came to Weft and South Weft ; in which points it continued, with very little deviation, till we reached New Zealand. A.fter making the land, I fteered for Cape Farewell, wliich at day-break, the next morning, bore South by Weft, dilhint Tuefday 1 1. about foiu" leagues. At eight o'clock, it bore South Weft bv South, al)out (i\e leagues diftant ; and, in this iituation, wc \\\\(\ fortv-(ive fathoms water oxer a Tandy ])ottom. In n)ui"nling the Cape we had lifty fathoms, and tlie fame fort of bottom. I now fteered for Stephens's Illand, which we came up with at nine o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, Wcdnef. li aiuhored in our old ftation, in Queen Charlotte's Sound *. rmvilling to loft* any time, our operations commenced tl'.^.t very afternoon, when we landed a number of enipty w ater- lalks, atid began to clear a place where we migb.t fet up * Sec llic Chan of Qiiccu Charlotte's Souiui, in Hawkclwortli's Collection, Vol. ii. the \ '.i f20 A VOYAGE TO iTiurfd.iy 13, the two obfcrvatories, and tents for the reception of a guard, and of fuch of our people whofe bufincfs might n. ike it ne- cellary for them to remain on Ihore. We had not been long at anchor before feveral canoes, iilled with natives, came along-lide of the fliips ; but very few of thon\ would venture on board ; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known to them all. There wa> one man in particular amongrt them, whom 1 had treated with remarkable kindnefs, dining the whole of my ihiy when I was latl here. Yet now, neither profeflions of friendlhip, nor prefents, couKl prevail iiix)n him to tome into the Ihip. This Ihynefs \vas to be accounted for only upon this i\ipi)olUion, that they were apprL-henfive we hat! revifited their country, in order to revenge the death of Captain Kurneau\\ people. Seeing Omai on boanl my Ihip now, whom they muft have remembered to have feen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair hap- pened, and \\hofe firll converfation with them, as they approached, generally turned on that fubjt-ifl, they mult be well aliiired that I was no longer a llrangcr to it. 1 thought it necertary, therefore, to iii'e every endeavour to afTiu'e them of the continuance of my friendlhip, and that I Ihould not dilhirb them on that account. I do not know whether this had any weight with them ; but certain it is, that they very foon laid afide all manner of rellraint and dillruft. On the 13th we fet up two tents, one from each fliip; on the lame Ipot where we had {)iti bed them formerly. The obiervatories were at the fame time erected ; and Melfrs. King and Bayly began their operations immediately, to linare(l for drcf- ling their vicluals. As to the children, I kept them, as alfo fome of tlie more aged, fullic iently occupied in ic ramb- ling for bead-, till 1 had en^ptied mv pockets, and then I left them. 'I'hef'e temporary habitations are abundantly fuHicient to afford llielter from tlie wind and rain, which is the only purjxjfe they are meant to anfwer. I obfer d that, gene- rally, if not always, the fame tribe or family, thougli it were ever io large, afibeiated and built together; fo that we THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 12' we frequently law a village, as well as their larger towns, divided into different diltricils, by low pallitades, or fome fimilar mode of reparation. The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, was not inconliderable. F'or, e^'ery day, when the weather would permit, fome of them went out to catch filh ; and we generally got, by exchanges, a good iharc of the produce of their labours. This liipply, and what o\ir own nets and lines afforded us, was fo ample, that we il'ldom were in want of lifli. Nor was there any deflcieniy of other refrefliments. Celery, fcurvy-grafs, and portable foiij) were boiled with the peafe and wheat, for both fliips companies, every day during our whole Itay ; and they had fpruce-beer for their drink. So that, if any of our people had contracted the feeds of the fcurvy, fuch a regimen ibon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here, there were only two invalids (and thefe on board the Relblution) upon the lick liils in both fliips. Belldes the natives who took up their abode clofe to us, we were occafionally viiited by others of them, whofe refi- dence was not far olf ; and by fome who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiofities, lifli, and wo- men. The two firll always came to a good market ; which the latter did not. The feamen had taken a kind of diilikc to thefe people ; and were cither unwiUing, or afraid, to afTociatc with them ; w hich produced this good effed, that I knew no inftance of a man's quitting his ilatiun, to go to tlieir habitations. A connexion with women 1 allow, becaufe I cannot j^rc- \ ci\t it ; l)ut never encourage, bccaul'c I always dread its conlc(piences. 1 know, intleed, that many men are of o[)i- II 2 nion, »777- Febru.iry. i ■': 'tl I 124 Fcliruarv. Hi! A VOYAGE TO nion, that fuch an intercourfe is one of our greateft fecuritics amongit favages ; and perhaps they who, either from ac- (cflity or i lioicc, are to remain and fettle with them, may lind it fo. But with travellers and tranlient vifiters, fuch as we were, it is generally othenvifc ; and, in our fituation, a connexion with their women hetrays more men than it faves. What elfe can be reafonably expcifted, fiiicc all their views are felfiih, without the leall mixture of regard or at- tachment ? My own experience, at leall, which hath been pretty extenfivc, hath not jwinted out to me one initance to the contrary. Amongll our occafional vifiters, was a chief named Ka- h(X)ra, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himfelf killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To jvidgc of the charaeople live, could have been afTigned. And yet I was fure that 1 did not mifconceive the meaning of thofe who made th^fe Ib'ange applications to me ; for Omai, whofe language was a di;dei5t of their own, and perfectly underllood .lU that they faid, was our inter])reter. On t.i L p -L-r . l_j.j: -tzrr ^ -L- 1 a- Ijfr 4-^^^^f. ■^,'?'' .i* -' i' T^. .■*0 A'ltiJhi fitifif i.\ ■' •■- *v y* * '■W .'.■ ,1'. •»..»•■ :■>' •J' 'S^' • • < -» w \ -<• •«!)' .(7- r- (? ' \ i ■\o>. .■' A .»>' ,ii> K;io f 1 ^ Hi X 1 _i_4_ I 1 - 1 - I—Z- r r-^Jr_ki '■ i-LJ: r-^ .}— I J -( rn-TrJT -j 4-:i-rT-T r.'.x^j:j_~i jT .■ :p;j_i-4 -i 1 1 i--ij_x.j ■f i' l-3.:y-fc:r-t-L-i-i.-l i' f4 =i=c£-ryiH^nT-r-i-t--=^r4H -f ti^a i / X .. •{] .•^„«:..„„ hi/rif'Ui}i>'.t I..', ^//,;u.;f,, l,':i,>ii M-,./,, ,. /.„,„ '1 i 'I -• -FT 1- |_1 ; : 1 ,. L i— l-J 1^ 1 1 j- 1 1 I '^J; I I r lM(i M \ ! U rooi-iyi- ^"") fl'- Ki'jrIH!. Kniv.i! .:"-'»^ /'■" -1_1«J t \,iii III,.' I' . :i» j (. II A K I- o/'l/if ruiKsni.r Is i.Ay ns- :1.-J I ; 1 i: - ' iiiri-':;. f-! -J- r;i33=zkL-L=e L q:-i- ■•■ t- r^^za^j^ r— T iU- 1 1 .1 ,i- S-* "//'■'•'"■/•'JV \'-..\ .i- /, ;;,'•. I 1 . ,r.. »_ l,,.<:,£V-*'^^'^ fl^ /;.,.vv,.-,.. f, O . /''^'''''^'M ■ r--:i^>';> 7 B y,v-- Qtal.-m' - \SliS. - 1__L y J_ iMU 1 8.; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. "5 February. On the 15th, I made an excurfion in my boat to look, for grafS) and vifited the Hippah, or fortified village at the South Weft point of Motuara, and the places where our Siturday 15 gardens had been planted on that iiland. There were no people at ti.-;: former; but the houfes and pallifades had been rebuilt, and were now in a ftate of good repair ; and there were other evident marks of its having been inha- bited not long before. It would be unneceflary, at prefent, to give a particular account of this Hippah, fufficient notice having been taken of it in the Account of my firft Voyage, to which I refer * ; and to the annexed drawing, which re- prefents part of the infide of the \illage, and will convey a better idea of it, than any written dcfcription. When the Adventure arrived firft at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773 +, Mr. Bayly fixed upon this place for mak- ing his obfervations ; and he, and the people with him, at their leifure hours, planted feveral fpots with Englifh gar- den feeds. Not the leaft veftige of thefe now remained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, when the village was reinhabited : for, at all the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, al- thovigh now wholly over-run with the weeds of the coun- try, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purllain, radifties, muftard, 8r.c. and a few potatoes. Thefe potatoes, which were firft brought from tl c Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly improved by chai ge of foil ; and, with proper cul- tivation, would be fuperior to thofe produced in moft other countries. Though the New Zcalanders are fond of this root, it was evident that they had iwt taken the trouble to plant a fmgle one (much lefs any other of the articles which * Hawkefworth's Colleftion, Vol. ii. p. 395, &c. t Cook's Vopge, Vol. i. p. 120. we :^' ^Ll? ia6 «777- February. Sunday i6. ■i s A VOYAGE TO we had introtluccd) ; and if it were not for the difficidty of clearing ground where iwtatocs had been once planted, there would not have been any now remaining. On the i6th, at day-break, I fet out with a party of men, in five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain Gierke, and fc -^ral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceedetl about three leagues up the found, and then landed on the Eall fide, at a place where 1 liad formerly been. Here wc cut as much grafs as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the found, we vifited Grafs Cove, the memorable fcene of the Malfacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Here I met with my old friend Pedro, who was idmoft continually with me the lalt time 1 was in this found, and is mentioned in my Iliftory of that Voyage •••. He, and another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, armed with the pa-too and fpcar. Whether this form of reception was a mark of their courtefy or of their fear, I cannot fay ; but I thought they betrayed manifert figns of the latter. However, if they had any apprehenfions, a few X»rcfents foon removed them, and brought down to the beach two or three more of the family ; but the greateil part of them remained out of fight. Whilft we were at this place, oiu' curiofity prompted us to inquire into the circumitances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen ; and Omai was made ufe of as our interpreter for this purpofe. Pedro, and the reft of the na- tives prefent, anfwered all the queftions that were put to them on the fubjedl, without referve, and like men who are under no dread of punifliment for a crime of which they are not guilty. For we already knew that none of * Captain Cock's Voyage, Vol. li. p. 158, 159. them .SR ni i H THE PACIFIC OCEAN. them had been concerned in the unhappy tranfaiftion. They told us, that while our people were fitting at tUnner, fur- rounded by feveral of the natives, fome of the latter ilolc, or fnatched from tlicm, Ibme breail and fifli, for which they were beat. This being relented, a quarrel enfued, and two New Zealandcrs were fhot dead, by the only two muftiuets that were fired. For before our people hatl time to dif- charge a third, or to load again thofc that had been fired, the natives rufhcd in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. \'edro and his companions, befidcs relating the hillory of the mafiUcre, made us acquainted with the very fpot that was the fccn ' of it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right- aand. '"hey pointed to the place of the fun, to mark to us at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it mull have been late in the afternoon. They alfo Ihewcd us th niace where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hiui- dred yards diftant from that where the crew were feated. One of their number, a black fervant of Captain Furncaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. We were afterward told that this black was the caufc of the quarrel, which was faid to have happened thus : One of the natives ftealing fomething out of the boat, the Negro gave him a fevere blow with a ftick. The cries of the fel- low being heard by his coiuitrymen at a diftancc, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people ; who, before they had Jr/.e to reach the boat, or to arm themfelves againft the unexpected im- pending danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of their favage aflTailants. The firfl: of thefe accounts, was confirmed by the tefti- mony of many of tlic natives, whom we converfed with, at 1 different 127 February. ^H^ If ^ ^' iff' *'T. III ^ 1 ^M lf'!f •1 K l! '.-/ pf .' 1? - . ? f ij^f, ::i^, M..^ i^^ ;•■ 1 la8 1777' February. A VOYAGE TO different times, and who, I think, could have no intereft in deceiving us. The fecond manner of relating the tranf- adlion, refts upon the autiiority of the young New Zealan- der, who chofe to abandon his country and go away with us, and who, confequently, could have no poflib)" view in difguifing the truth. All agreeing that the quarrel hap- pened when the boat's crew were fitting at their meal, it is highly probable that both accounts are true, as they per- fedlly coincide. For we may very naturally ^nppofe, that while fome of the natives were ftealing from the man who had been left in the boat, others of them might take the fame liberties with the property of our people who were on fliore. Be this as it will, all agree, that the quarrel firft took its rife from fome thefts, in the commiflion of which the na- tives were detedled. All agree, alfo, that there was no pre- meditated plan of bloodflied, and that, if thefe thefts had not been, unfortunately, too haftily refented, no mifchief would have happened. For Kahoora's greateft enemies, thofe who folicited his deftrudlion moft earneftly, at the fame time confeffed that he had no intention to quarrel, much lefs to kill, till the fray had a(flually commenced. It alfo appears that the imhappy vidlims were under no fort of apprehenfion of their fate; otherwife they never would have ventured to lit down to a repaft at fo confiderable a dillance from their boat, amongft people Avho were the next moment to be their murderers. What became of the boat I never could learn. Some faid flie was pulled to pieces and burnt ; others told us that Iht was carried, they \new not whither, by a party of ftrangers. We Hayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the reft of the boats with grafs, celery, icurvy-grafs, &:c. we THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 129 •777. February. we embarked to return to the fliips. We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany \is ; but we had fcarcely put off from the lliore, when the wind began to blow very hard at North Weft, which obliged him to put back. We proceeded ourfelves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that we could reach the fliips ; where fome of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the next morning; and it was fortunate that they got on Monday 17. board then, for it afterward blew a perfe(5t ftorm, with abundance of rain, fo that no manner of work could go forward that day. In the evening the gale ceafed, and the wind having veered to the Eait, brought with it fair weather. The next day we refumed our works ; the natives ven- Tuefday is. tured out to catch fifli ; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This Chief's proper name is Matahouah ; the other being given him by fome of my people diuring my laft Voyage, which I did not know till now. He was, however, equally well known amongft his countrymen by both names. On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another ftorm from Thurfday 20. the North Weft. Though this was not of fo long continu- ance as the former, the gufts of wind from the hills were far more violent, infomuch that we were obliged to ftrike the yards and top-mafts to the very utmoft ; and, even with all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. Thefe ftorms are very frequent here, and fometimes violent and troublefome. The neighbouring mountains, which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not only increafe the force of the wind, but alter its dire(5tion in fuch a manner, that no two blafts follow each other from the fame quarter ; and the nearer the Ihore, the more their cffcds are felt. Vol. I. S The ii •!, 1-;? m a'f I, : 130 A VOYAGE TO February. .., -^ The next day we were vifited by a tribe or family, con- fifting of about thirty perfons, men, women, and children, who came from the upper part of the Sound. 1 had never feen them before. The name of their Chief was Toma- tongeauooranuc ; a man of about forty-five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance. And, indeed, the reft of his tribe were, in general, the handfomeft of the New Zealand race I had ever met with. By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had fettled themfelves about us. Great num- bers of them daily frequented the fliips, and the encamp- ment on Ihore : but the latter became, b / far, the moft favourite place of refort, while our people there were melting fome feal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train-oil, than our friends here feemed to be. They relilhed the very fkimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the cafks ; but a little of the piire ftinking oil was a delicious feaft, fo eagerly defired, that I fuppole it is fel- dom enjoyed. Having got on board as much hay and grafs as we judged lufficient to ferve the cattle till our arrival at Ota- heite, and having completed the wood and water ci hoth Sunday 23. fhips, on the 23d we ftruck our tents, and carried every Monday 2+. thing off from the (hore ; and next morning we weighed anchor, and ftood out of the Cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be fpent before we could get out of the Sound, we call anchor again a little without the ifland Motuara, to wait for a more fa- vourable opportunity of putting into the ftrait. While we were uni ooring and getting under fail. To- rn atongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to take their leave of us, or rather to obtain, if they could, ibme additional prcfents from us before we 3 left THE PACIFIC OCEAN. left them. Thefe two Chiefs became fuitors to me for fome goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, a male and female with kid ; and to Tomaton- geauooramic two pigs, a boar and a fow. They made me ■a. promife not to kill them ; though I mull own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux lent on fliore here, and which foon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of thofe I had left in Weft Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the courfe of my laft Voyage. However, all the natives, whom 1 converfed with, agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove ; and I was after- ward informed, by the two yoviths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular Chief amongil them, had a great many cocks and hens in his feparate poffeflion, and one of the fows. On my prefent arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but flieep, and a young bidl, with two heifers, if I could have found either a Chief ix)werfvd enough to protect and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from thofe who would ignorantly attempt to deftroy them. But neither the one nor the other prefented itfelf to me. Tiratou was now abfent ; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with during my laft Voyage •••'■, and who leemed to be a perfon of much confequence at that time, had been killed five months ago, with about feventy perfons of his tribe ; and I could not learn that there now remained in our neighbourhood any tribe, whofe numbers could fecure to 131 «777- February. * Sec Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 157. S 2 them i. m m h m ' - f l\ iJ 132 «777- Februcry. Tuefda; A VOYAGE TO them a fuperiority of power over the reft of their country- men. To have given the animals to any of the natives who poffeffed no fuch power, would not have anfwered the in- tention. For in a country like this, where no man's pro- perty is fecure, they would foon have fallen a prey to dif- ferent parties, and been either Separated or killed ; but moft likely both. This was fo evident, from what we had ob- ferved fince our arrival, that I had reiblved to leave no kind of animal, till Matahouah and the other Chief folicited me for the hogs and goats. As I could fpare them, I let them go, to take their chance. I have, at different times, left in New Zealand, not lefs than ten or a dozen hogs, befides thofe put on Ihore by Captain Furaeaux. It will be a little extraordinary, therefore, if this race fliould not in- creafe and be preferved here, either in a wild or in a do- meftic ftate, or in both. We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, before three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the South Eaft lide of the Sound ; and a brifk trade was car- ried on with them for the curiofities of this place. In one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already men- tioned as the leader of rhe party who cut off the crew of the Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had vifited us, without betraying the fmallefl appearance of fear. I was afhore when he now arrived, but had got on board juft as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me, prefently pointed him out, and folicited me to flioot him. Not fatisfied with this, he addreffed himfelf to Kahoora, threatening to be his executioner, if ever he prefumed to vifit us again. The New Zealander paid fo little regard to thefe threats, that he returned, the next morning, with his whole family, men, W4 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. men, women, and children, to the number of twenty and upward. Omai was the firft who acquainted me with his being along-fide the (hip, and defired to know if he Ihould afk him to come on board. I told him he might ; and ac- cordingly he introduced the Chief into the cabin, faying, " There is Kahoora, kill him !" But, as if he had forgot his former threats, or were afraid that I Ihould call upon him to perform them, he immediately retired. In a Ihort time, however, he returned ; and feeing the Chief unhurt, he expoftulated with me very earneftly, faying, " Why do " you not kill him ? You tell me, if a man kills another in " England, that he is hanged for it. This man has killed « ten, and yet you will not kill him ; though many of his " countrymen defire it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though fpecious enough, having no weight with me, I defired him to afk the Chief, why he had killed Captain Furneaux's people ? At this queftion, Kahoora fold- ed his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap : And, I firmly believe, he expected inftant death. But no fooner was he affured of his fafety, than he became cheerful. He did not, however, feem willing to give me an anfwer to the queftion that had been put to him, till I had, again and again, repeated my promife that he fliould not be hurt. Then he ventured to tell us, That one of his countrymen having brought a ftone hatchet to barter, the man, to whom it was offered, took it, and would neither return it, nor give any thing for it '. on which the owner of it fnatched up the bread as an equivalent; and then the quarrel began. The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy af- fair, differed very littl'' f^:om what we had before learnt, from the reft of his countrymen. Ht inentioned the rar rvw 133 '777- Februarv. I i 134 A VOYAGE TO sik it m «777- February. row efcape he had, during the fray ; a miifquet being le- velled at him, which he avoided by fkulking behind the ])oat ; and another man, wh,> ilootl clofe to him, was (hot dead. As loon as the mufquc»: was difcharged, he inft;;i\tly ^ized the opportunity to attack Mr. Rowe, who commimd- ed the party, and who defended himfelf with his hai^.ger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), dH he v as overpowered by numbers. Mr. Burney, who was fent by Captain Furneaux the next day ••■, with an armed party, to look for his mifling pe -pie, uyKiW diJcovering the horrid proofs of their Ihockin;,/ fate, liad iii'i d levei'ii vollies amongll the crowds vf iiatives who lliil remained aHembied on the; fpot, and were, pro- bably, parinkin^^ 777- February. w m A VOYAGE TO This perpetual llatc of war, and dcrtrudlive method of con- dii^ling it, operates lb ilroi\i>ly in j)roducing habitual cir- ciimlpe(5lion, that one hardW ever fuids a New Zealander ort'his guard, either by mi'i'C ' » by day. Indeed, no other man can have fuch ,\>\verful iPotive> to be vigilant, as the prefervation both i)f body and of foul depends upon it. For, according to their fyllem of belief, the foul oi'ili-* man whofe flelli is devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a per- petual fire, while the foul of the man wboO^ body has been rcfcucd from thofe who killed him, us well a^ th*. fouls of all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the Gods. I pflced. Whether they eat the fiefli of fuch of their friends at had been killed in war, but whofe bodies were faved from falling into the t.iemy's hands? They feemed furpri2.cd at the cpieftion, which they anfwered in the ne- gative, exprefling ibme abhorrence at the very idea. Their common method of difpoling of their dead, is by depofit- ing their bodies in the earth ; but if they have more of their llaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw them into the iea. They have no fuch thing as morals^ or other places of public worfliip; nor do they ever alFemble together with this view. But they have Priells, who alone addrefs the Gods in prayers, for the profperity of their temporal af- fairs ; fuch as an enterprife againll a hoifile tribe, a filhing party, or the like. Whatever the pri triples of their religion may be, of which we remain very ignorant, its in'llrudlions are very ftrongly inculcated into them from their very infancy. Of this I faw a remarkable inltance, in the youth who was firft dertined to accompany Taweiharooa. He re- frained from eating the greatclt part of the day, on ac- I count ' 1 ',S THE PACIFIC OCEAN. count of his hair heing cut ; though every method was tried to induce him to break, his rcibhuion; and he was tempted with the offer of Inch vi(ftuals as he was known to efteem the molt. lie laid, it" he eat any thini; that day, the Eatooa would kill him. However, toward evening, the cravings of nature got the better of the precepts of his religion, and he eat, though but fparingly. 1 had often conjedtured, before this, that they had Ibme fuperrtitious notions about their hair, having frequently obferved quan- tities of it tied to the branches of trees near lome of their habitations ; but what thefe notions are, I never could learn. Notwithftanding the divided and hoftile Hate in which the New Zealanders live, travelling ftrangers, who come with no ill defign, are well received and entertained during their ftay ; which, however, it is expelled, will be no longer than is requifite to tranfadl the bufinefs they come upon. Thus it is that a trade for poenarnnioo, or green talc, is carried on throughout the whole northern illand. For they tell us, that there is none of this ilonc to be found, but at a place which bears its name, fomewhere about the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not above one or two days journey, it moft, from the ftation of our fliips. I regretted much that I could not fpare time fufficient for paying a vifit to the place ; as we were told a hundred fa- bidous ilories about this ftone, not one of which carried with it the leall probability of truth, though fome of their moft fenfible men would have us believe them. One of thefe ftories is, that this ftone is originally a liih, which they ftrike with a gig in the water, tie a rope to it, and drag it to the fliore, to which they faften it, and it after- ward becomes ftone. As they all agree, that it is fiflied T 2 out 139 JV7- 140 Fcbriwry. , I W i n ii ¥ A VOYAGE TO out of a large lake, or coUed^ion of waters, the moft pro- bable coiijcdure is, that it is brought from the mountains, and tlepolited in the water, by the torrents. This lake is called by the natives Tavai Poenatnmoo ; that is, the water of Green Talc ; and it is only the adjoining part of the coun- tr>, and not the whole Southern illand of New Zealand, that is known to them by the name which hath been given to it on my chart '*. Polygamy is allowed amongft thefe people ; and it is not uncommon for a man to have two or three wives. The women are marriageable at a very early age ; and it fliould feem, that one who is unmarried, is but in a forlorn ftate. She can with difficulty get a fubllftencc ; at leall, (lie is, in a great mealure, without a protedor, though in conftant want of a powerful one. The New Zealanders feem to be a people perfedly fatif- fied with the little knowledge they are mafters of, without attempting, in the leaft, to improve it. Nor are they re- markably curious, either in their obfervations, or their in- quiries. New objcdls do not ftrikc them with fnch a degree of furprize as one would naturally exped ; nor do they even fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who was a great favourite with them, would fometimes attradt a circle about him ; but they feemcd to liften to his fpeeches, like perfons who neither imderftood, nor wifhed to vuider- ftand, what they heard. One day, on om' enquiring of Taweiharooa, how many fliips, fuch as ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Soimd, or in any part of its neighbourhood? he began with giving an accoimt of one abfolutely unknown to us. This, he • See Captain Cook's chart of New Zealand, in Hawkcf. Coll, vol. ii. p. 281. faid, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. faid, had put into a port on the North Weft coaft of Teera- witte, but a very few years before I arrived in the Sound in the Endeavour, which the New Zealanders diftinguifti, l)y calling it Tupia's fliip. At firlt, I thought he might have been miftaken as to the tinne and place; and that the (hip in queftion might be either Monfieur Surville's, who is faid to have touched upon the North Eaft coaft of Eaheinomauwe, the fame year I was there in the Endeavour; or elfeMt^nfieup Marion du Frefne's, who was in the Bay of Iflands, on the fame coaft, a few years after. But he afliired us, that he was not miftaken, either as to the time, or as to the place of this fliip's arrival ; and that it was well known to every body about Queen Charlotte's Sound and Tcerawitte. He faid, that the Captain of her, during his ftay here, coha- bited with a woman of the country ; and that flie had a fon by him ftill living, and about the age of Kokoa; who, though not born then, feemed to be equally well acquaint- ed with the ftory. We were alfo informed by Taweiharooa, that this ftiip firft introduced the venereal difeafe amongft the New Zealanders. I wifli that fubfequent vifiters from Europe may not have their ftiare of guilt, in leaving fo dreadful a remembrance of them amongft this unhappy race. The diforder now is but too common here ; though they do not feem to regard it ; faying, that its efFe<5l3 are not near fo pernicious at prefent, as they were at its firft appearance. The only method, as far as I ever heard, that they make ufe of as a remedy, is by giving the patient the ufe of a fort of hot bath, which they produce by the fteam of certain green plants laid over hot ftones. I regretted much that we did not hear of this ftiip vliile we were in the Sound ; as, by means of Omai, we might have had full and corredl information about her from eye- witnefles^ 141 1777. February. 142 «777- February. A VOYAGE TO witnefles. For Taweiharooa's account was only from what he had been told, and therefore hable to many miftakes. I have not the leaft doubt, however, that his teftimony may fo far be depended upon, as to induce us to beUcve, that a fhip really had been at Teerawitte prior to my arrival in the Endeavour, as it correfponds with what I had formerly heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the fecond time I vifited New Zealand, during my late voyage, when we were continually making inquiries about the Adventure, after our reparation, fome of the natives informed us of a fliip's having been in a port on the coaft of Teerawitte. But, at that time, we thought we mull: have mifundcrftood them, and took no notice of the intelligence. The arrival of this unknown fhip has been marked by the New ZeiUanders with more caufes of remembrance than the unhappy one jull mentioned. Tawciharooa told us, their country was indebted to her people for the prcfent of an animal, which they left behind them. But as he had not feen it himfelf, no fort of judgment could be form- ed from his dcfcription, of what kind it was. We had another piece of intelligence from him, more correctly given, though not confirmed by our own obferva- rions, that there are Ihakes and lizards there of an enor- mous fize. He defcribed the latter as being eight feet in length, and as big round as a man's body. He faid, they fometimes ieize and devour men ; that they burrow in the ground ; and that they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the holes. We could not be miftaken as to the animal ; for, with his own hand, he drew a very goo If i I •? -i 148 >777- February. A VOYAGE TO belong to larger trees that ftand farther within the wood, and which we frequently cut down for fuel. A fpecies of Pbiladelpbus grows on the eminences which jut out into the fea ; and alfo a tree bearing flowers almoft like myrtle, with roundifh fpotted leaves of a difagreeable fmell. We drank, the leaves of the Pbiladelpbus as tea ; and found that they had a pleafant tafte and fmell, and might make an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort *. Among other plants that were ufeful to us, may be reckoned wild celery, which grows plentifully in almoft every cove ; efpecially if the natives have ever refuleti there before ; and one that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs, though or.tirely different from the plant to which we give that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for com- n ufe; and may be known by its jagged leaves, and irnall clufters of white flowers on the top. Both fjrts were boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a mill, and with ix)rtable foup, for the people's breakfaft ; and alfo amongft their peafe-foup, for dinner. Sometimes they were ufed as fallad, or dreffed as greens. In all which ways they are good ; and, together with the filh, with which we were conllantly fupplied, they formed a fort of refrefhment, perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with in places moft noted by navigators for plentiful fupplies of animal and vegetable food. Amongfl the known kinds of plants met with here, are common and rough bindweed ; night-fliade and nettles, both which grow to the fize of fmall trees ; a flirubby fpeedwell, found near all the beaches ; ibw-thiftles, virgin's bower, * See a reprefentation of this, Plate N* XXII. in Captain Cook's Jccount of his Second Voyage^ V<4. i. p. loO. vanelloe, •"^^^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill : alfo cudweed, ruflies, bull-rufties, flax, all-heal, American nightlhade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-bright, and ground- fel ; but the /pedes of each are different from any we have in Europe. There is alfo polypody, fpleenwort, and about twenty other different fort of ferns, entirely peculiar to the place ; with feveral forts of moffes, either rare, or produced only here ; bef '«s a great number of other plants, whofe ufes are not yet nown, and fubje(5ls fit only for botanical books. Of thefe, however, there is one which deferves particu- lar notice here, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine filky flax, fuperior in appearance to any thing we have ; and probably, at leait, as ftrong. It grows every where near the fea, and in fome places a confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, with fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long ftalk, yellowifh flowers, which are fucceeded by a long roundifh pod, fill- ed with very thin fhining black feeds. A fpecies of long pepper is found in great plenty ; but it has little of the aromatic flavour that makes fpices valuable ; and a tree much like a palm at a diftance, is pretty frequent in the woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. It is remarkable that, as the greatcft part of the trees and plants had, at this time, loft their flowers, we jierceived they were generally of the berry-bearing kind ; of which, and other feeds, I brought away about thirty different forts. Of thefe, one in particular, which bears a red berry, is much like the fupple-jack, and grows about the trees, ftretching from one to another, in fuch a manner as to ren- der the woods almoft wholly impafTable. The birds, of which there is a tolerable flock, as well as the 149 1777- Februtry. ■ I ilJ i ,1 J iio '777- Febiuar}'. A VOYAGE TO the vegetable produdions, are almoft entirely peculiar to the place. And though it be difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of vmdervvood, and the climbing plants, that render travelling, for pleafure alone, uncom- monly fatiguing, yet a perfon, by remaining in one place, may flioot as many in a day as would ferve iix or eight others. The principal forts are, large brown parrots, with white or greyilli heads ; green parroqucts, with red fore- heads ; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bel- lies, the reil green, and the bill and feet red. Two Ibrts of cuckoos, one as large as our common fort, of a brown co- lour, variegated with black ; the other not larger than a fparrow, of a fplendid green call above, and elegantly va- ried with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours below. Both thefe are fcarce ; but feveral others are in greater plenty ; one of which, of a black colour, with a grcenifli caft, is remarkable for having a tuft of w^ite curled feathers hanging under the throat, and was called the Poy bird ••• by our people. Another fort, rather fmaller, is black, with a brown back and wings, and two fmall gills under the root of the bill. This we called the fmall wattle bird, to dirtinguifli it from another, which we called the large one, of the fize of a common pigeon, with two large yellow and purple membranes alfo, at the root of the bill. It is black, or rather blue, and has no refemblance of the other but in name ; for the bill is thick, lliort, and crooked, and has all together an uncommon appearance. A grofs- beak, about the fize of a thrulh, ot a brow n colour, \n ith a reddilh tail, is frequent ; as is alio a fmall greenilli bird, * Sec a drawing of this bird, P/nh N' LH^. in CnptM* Co tk- that the natives moiUy fupplied us with, were a fort ot fea- bream of a fdver colour with a black fix>t on the neck, large conger eels, and a fifli in fliape much like the bream, but fo large as to weigh five, fix, or feven pounds. It is blackifh with thick lips, and called Mogge by the natives. With hook and line we caught chiefly a blackifli fifti of the fize of a haddock, called colc-fifli by the feamen, but dif- fering much from that known by the fiime name in Eu- rope ; and another of the fame fize, of a reddifli colour with a little beard, which we called night walkers, from the greateft number being caught in the night. Sometimes we got a fort of fmall falmon, gurnards, fkatc, and nurfes ; and the natives, now and then, brought hake, paracutas, a fmall fort of mackerel, parrot-fifli, and leather-jackets ; beiides another fifli which is very rare, fliaped almoft like a dol- phin, of a black colour, with ftrong bony jaws, and the back-fin, as well "iS tb.ofe oppofite to it, much lengthened at the end. All ?h.;il forts, except the laft, which we did not try, are excviiont to eat ; but the Mogge, fmall falmon, and cole-fifli are fupcrior to the reft. The rocks are abundantly furniflied with great quanti- ties of excellent mufcles ; one fort of which, that is not very common, meafures above a foot in length. There are alio cockles buried in the fand of the Imall beaches; and in fome places oyfters, which, though very fmall, arc well tafted. Of other fliell-fifli there are ten or twelve forts, fuch as periwincklcs, wilks, limpets, and fome very beau- tifid fea-ears ; alfo another fort which ftick to the weeds ; with fome other things, as fea-cggs, rtar-fifli, &c. feveral of whicli are peculiar to the j)lac e. The natives likewife fomc- 3 times THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 153 uitoc ; for vvc fo\ind of fmall harmlcfs times brought us very fine cray-filh, equal to our largeft lobrtcrs, and cuttle fifli, which they cat thcnifelves. Infeds are very rare. Of thefe, vvc only faw two forts of dragon-flies, fome butterflies, fmall grafliopi>ers, feveral forts of fpidcrs, fome fmall black, ants, and valt numbers of fcorpion flies, with whofe cliirpl 'g the woods refound. The only noxious one is the far '-t , very numerous here, and almoft as troublefome as t no reptile here, except two 01 lizards "**. It is remarkable, that, in this exiculi . e land, there fliould not even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a fort of fox-dog, which is a domeftic animal with the natives. Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green jafper or ferpent-ftone, of which the New Zealanders make their tools and ornaments. This is efteemed a precious articl<^ by them ; and they have fome fuperilitious notions about the method of its generation, which we could not perfe<5tly underftand. It is plain, however, that wherever it may be found (which, they fay, is in the channel of a large river far to the So\ithward), it is difpofed in the earth in thin layers, or, perhaps, in detached pieces, like our flints ; for the edges of thofe pieces, which have not been cut, are covered with a whitifh cruft like thefe. A piece of this fort was purchafed, about eighteen inches long, a foot broatl, and near two inches thick ; which yet feemed to be only the fragment of a larger piece. The natives do not exceed the common ftature of Euro- February. I; i% • In a feparate memorandum-book, Mr. Anderfon mentions the monftrous animal of the lizard kind, defcribed by the two boys after they left the ifland. Vol. I. X peans ; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /y / 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^ 12.2 L± 11.6 4V^ ';' Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 m •^ fV :\ i^^ ^ % \ V c,\ m II m ■; I II ("in 154 »777- February. A VOYAGE TO peans ; and, in general, are not fo well made, efpecially about the limbs. This is, perhaps, the efFe<£l of fitting, for the moft part, on their hams ; and of being confined, by the hilly difpofition of the country, from ufing that fort of exercife which contributes to render the body ftraight and well-proportioned. There are, however, feve- ral exceptions to this ; and fome are remarkable for their large bones and mufcles ; but few that I have feen are cor- pulent. Their colour is of different calls, from a pretty deep black to a yellowilh or olive tinge ; and their features alfo are various, fome refembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with their lips full, and alfo their nofes toward the point ; though the firft are not uncommonly thick, nor the laft flat. I do not, however, recolledl to have feen an inftance of the true aquiline nofe amongft them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well fet ; and their eyes large, with a very free motion, which feems the effedt of habit. Their hair is black, ftraight, and ftrong, commonly cut Ihort on the hind part, with the reft tied on the crown of the head : but fome have it of a curling difpofition, or of a brown colour. In the young, the countenance is generaUyfree or open ; but in many of the men it has a ferious caft, and fometimes a fuUennefs or referve, efpecially if they are ftrangers. The women are, in general, fmaller than the men ; but have few peculiar graces, either in form or features, to diftinguifli them. The drefs of both fexes is alike ; and confifts of an ob- long garment about five feet long, and four broad, made from the filky flax already mentioned. This feems to be their moft material and complex manufaiSlure, which is executed by knotting ; and their work is often ornamented with f . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. with pieces of dog-lkin, or chequered at the corners. They bring two corners of this garment over the flioulders, and fatten it on the breaft with the other part, which co- vers the body ; and about the belly, it is again tied with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with large feathers of birds (which feem to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is made), or with dog-fkin ; and that alone we have feen worn as a covering. Over this gar- ment many of them wear mats, which reach from the ihoulders to near the heels. But the moft common outer- covering is a quantity of the above fedgy plant, badly dreffed, which they fatten on a ftring to a confiderable length, and, throwing it about the Ihoulders, let it fall down on all fides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When they lit down with this upon them, either in their boats, or upon the Ihore, it would be difficult to diftinguilh them from large grey ftones, if their black heads, projecting be- yond their coverings, did not engage one to a ttridler exa- mination. By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or combs of bone, or wood, adorned with pearl fhell, or the thin inner fkin of fome leaf. And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, or rather flit, are hung fpiall pieces of jafper, bits of cloth, or beads when they can get them. A few alfo have the feptum of the nofe bored in its lower part ; but no ornament was worn there that we faw ; though one man pafTed a twig through it, to Ihew us that it was fometimes ufed for that pur- pofe. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them fhaved. Some are puncSlured or ttained in the face with curious fpiral and other figures, of a black or deep blue colour ; X 2 but 155 «777- February. 1;''l liii 156 A VOYAGE TO «777- February. ' n but it is doubtful whether this be ornamental, or intended as a mark of particular diftin6tion ; and the women, who are marked fo, have the pundlure only on their lips, or a fmall fi>ot on their chins. Both fexes often befmear their faces and heads with a red paint, which feems to be a martial ochre mixed with greafe ; and 'he women fometimes wear necklaces of fhark's teeth, or bunches of long beads, which feem to be made of the leg-bones of fmall birds, or a particular Ihell. A few alfo have fmall triangular aprons adorned with the feathers of par- rots, or bits of pearl fhells, fumilhed with a double or treble fet of cords to fatten them about the waift. I have fome- times feen caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds, which may be reckoned as ornaments ; for it is not their cuftom to wear any covering on their heads. They live in the fmall coves formerly defcribed, in com- panies of forty or fifty, or more ; and fometimes in fingle families, building their huts contiguous to each other; which, in general, are miferable lodging-places. The beft I ever faw was about thirty feet long, fifteen broad, and fix high, built exa(£lly in the manner of one of our country barns. The infide was both ftrong and regularly made of fupporters at the fides, alternately large and fmall, well faftened by means of withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was ftrong ; and the large bull-ruflies, which compofed the inner part of the thatching, were laid with great exaflnefs parallel to each other. At one end was a fmall fquare hole, which fcrved as a door to ci cep in at ; and near it another much fmaller, feemingly for let- ting out the fmoke, as no other vent for it could be feen. This, however, ought to be confidered as one of the beft, and the refidencc of Ibme principal perfon ; for the greatert part THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 157 part of them are not half the above fize, and feldom exceed four feet in height; being, befides, indifferently built, though proof againft wind and rain. No other furniture is to be feen in them, than a few fmall balkets or bags, in which they put their filhing- hooks, and other trifles ; and they lit down in the middle round a fmall fire, where they alfo probably fleep^ without any other covering than what they wear in the day, or perhaps without that; as fuch confined place» pauft be very warm, though inhabited but by a few perfons. They live chiefly by fifhing, making ufe either of net& of diflerent kinds, or of wooden fifti-hooks pointed with bone ; but fo oddly made, that a ftranger is at a lofs to know how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. It alfo ap- pears, that they remove^ their habitations from one place to another when the fifh grow fcarce, or for fome other reafon ; for we found houfes now built in feveral parts, where there had been none when we were here during our laft voyage, and even thefe have been already deferted. Their boats are well bi^ilt, of planks raifed upon each other, and fattened with fl:rong withef , which alfo bind a long narrow piece on the outfide of the feams to pre- vent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, and fo broad as to be able to fail without an outrigger ; but the fmaller fort commonly have one ; and they often fuflen two toge- ther by rafters, which we then call a double canoe. They carry from five to thirty men or more ; and have often a large head ingenioufly carved, and painted with a figure at the point, Avhich feems intended to reprefent a man, with his features diftorted by rage. Their paddles are about four or five feet long, narrow, and pointed ; with which;, February. iri flfEli*'''!'^ li^a im :: m 158 1777- February. A VOYAGE TO which, when they keep time, the boat is puflied along pretty fwiftly. Their fail, which is feldom ufed, is made of a mat of a triangular fliape, having the broadeft part above. The only method of drefling their filh, is by roaftingy or rather baking ; for they are intirely ignorant of the art of boiling. In the fame manner they drefs the root, and part of the llalk, of the large fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpofe, which ferves as an oven. After which they fplit it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous fubftance, like boiled fago powder, but firmer. They alfo ufe another fmaller fern root, which feems to be their fubftitute for bread, as it is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fifh in great quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from home. This they beat with a ftick tin it becomes pretty foft, when they chew it fufficiently, and fpit out the hard fibrous part, the other having a fweetilh mealy tafl:e not at all difagreeable. When they dare not venture to fea, or perhaps from choice, they fupply the place of other fifli with mufcles and fea-ears ; great quantities of the Ihells of which lie in heaps near their houfes. And they fometimes, though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and fhags, which help to vary their diet. They alfo breed confiderable num- bers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food ; but thefe cannot be confidered as a principal article of diet. From whence we may conclude, that, as there is not the leaft fign of cultivation of land, they depend principally for their fubfiftence on the fea, which, indeed, is very bountiful in its fupply. Their method of feeding correfponds with the naftinefs of their perfons, which often fmell difagreeably from the quantity ' !'J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. quantity of greafe about them, and their clothes never be- ing waflied. We have feen them eat the vermin, witli which their heads are fufficiently flocked. They alfo ufed to devour, with the greateft eagemefs^ large quantities of {linking train oil, and blubber of feals, which we were melting at the tent, and had kept near two months ; and, on board the Ihips, they were not fatisfied with emptying the lamps, but a<5tually fwallowed the cot- ton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is worthy of notice, that though the inhabitants of Van Diemen's land appear to have bat a fcanty fubfiftence, they would not even tafte our bread, though they faw us eat it ; where- as thefe people devoured it greedily, when both mouldy and rotten. But this muft not be imputed to any defeat in their fenfations ; for I have obferved them throw away things which we eat, with evident difguft, after only fmell- ing to them. They Ihew as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as any uncivilized nations under fimilar cir- cumftances. For, without the ufe of any metal tools, they make every thing by which they procure their fub- iiftence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of neatnefs, ftrength, and convenience for accomplilhing their feveral purpofes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed exa < 'J r r ■Jj'lj^ ■I i if' lli? ! ' H:'l? 1 •! ibiilil [' i6o '77r- Fehruary. lii-. A VOYAGE TO example of their great labour and patience in execution. Their cordage for fifhing-lines is equal, in ftrength and evennefs, to that made by us ; and tht ir nets not at all in- ferior. But what muft coft them more labour than any other article, is the making the tools we hrxve mentioned ; for the ftone is exceedingly hard, and the 'aiy method of falhioning it, we can guefs at, is by rubbing one ftone upon another, which can have but a How efFe6l. Their fubftitute for a knife is a (hell, a bit of flint, or jafper. And, as an auger, to bore holes, they fix a fhark's tooth in the end of a fmall piece of wood. It is true, they have a fmall faw made of fome jagged fifhes teeth, fixed on the convex edge of a piece of wood nicely carved. But this, they fay, is only ufed to cut up the bodies of their enemies whom they kill in battle. No people can have a quicker fenfe of an injury done to them, and none are more ready to refent it. But, at the fame time, they will take an opportunity of being infolent when they think there is no danger of punifhment ; which is fo contrary to the fpirit of genuine bravery, that, perhaps, their eagernefs to refent injuries is to be looked upon rather as an effedt of a furious difpofition than of great courage. They alfo appear to be of a fufpicious or miftruftful temper (which, however, may rather be acquired than natural), for ftrangers never came to our Ihips immediately, but lay in their boats at a fmall diftance, either to obferve our motions, or confuh whether or no they fhould rifk their fafety with us. To this they join a great degree of dilhonefty ; for they fteal every thing they can lay their hands on, if there be the leaft hope of not being detedted ; and, in trading, I have little doubt but they would take advantages, if they thought it could be done with fafety ; as they not only refufe to Sl "i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i6i to tnift a thing in one's hand for examination, but exult if they think they have tricked you in the bargain. Such condudt, however, is, in fome meafure, to be ex- pedled where there appears to be but little fvibordination, and confequently few, if any, laws, to punifli tranfgref- fions. For no man's authority feems to extend farther than his own family ; and when, at any time, they join for mutual defence, or any other purpofe, thofe amongft them who are eminent for courage or prudence, are directors. How their private quarrels are terminated is uncertain; but, in the few we faw, which were of little confequence, the parties con^ierned were clamorous and diforderly. Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpe- tual ; for it appears, from their number of weapons, and dexterity in ufing them, that war is their principal pro- feflion. Thefe weapons are fpears, patoos and halberts, or fometimes ftones. The firft are made of hard wood point- ed, of different lengths, from five, to twenty, or even thirty feet long. The Ihort ones are ufed for throwing as darts. The patoo or emeete is of an elliptical Ihape, about eighteen inches long, with a handle made of wood, ftone, the bone ' of fome fea animal, or green jafper, and feems to be their principal dependence in battle. The halbert, or long club, is about five or fix feet long, tapering at one end with a carved head, and at the other, broad or flat, with fliarp edges. Before they begin the onfet, they join in a war-fong, to Avhich they all keep the exadteft time, and foon raife their paflion to a degree of frantic fury, attended with the moft horrid diftortion of their eyes, mouths, and tongues, to ftrike terror into their enemies ; which, to thofe who have not been accuftomed to fuch a pra<5tice, makes them ap- VoL. I. * Y p?ar >777- Febrimry. N 'i:« ■ '11 '.:a ' -m ■1 Wff w-' i II T |1 III ii 162 A VOYAGE TO 1777- February. Ir- I pear more like demons than men, and woiUd almoft chill the boldelt with fear. To this fucceeds a circumftance) al- moft foretold in their fierce demeanof) horrid, cruel, and dilgraceful to hviman nature ; which is, cutting in pieces, even before being perfedlly dead, the bodies of their ene- mies, and, after dreliing them on a fire, devouring the fieih, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar fatif- f action. One might be apt to fuppofe, that people, capable of fuch excefs of cruelty, muft be deftitute of every humane feeling, even amongft their own party. And yet we find them lamenting the lofs of their friends, with a violence of expreffion which argues the moft tender remembrance of them. For both men and women, upon the death of thofe conne' ; ,'| fjj ^^m "i ' 'jg 1' w ■|i 1 '" J Tt,i;f : 'I '. ■ I u '1 ■ > ,1 TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I PI VOYAGE .■■:i B O O K II. FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. CHAP. I. Profecution of the Voyage. — Behaviour of the Two New Zea- landers on board. — Unfavourable Winds. — An I/land called Mangeea difco'vered. — The Coaji of it examined.~—Tranf' anions with the Natives. — An Account of their Perfonsy Drefs, and Canoe. — Defcription of the IJland. — A Specimen of the Language. — Difpofstion of the Inhabitants. ON the 25th, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light 1777. breeze fpringing up at North Weft by Weft, we Jij!^ weighed, ftoocl out of the Sound, and made fliil Tuefday25. through the ftrait, with the Difcovery in company. We had hardly got the length of Cape Teerawittc, when the wind took us aback at South Eaft. It continued in this quarter till I two ^■■m '!' '11 ti 4 Pi ' . i68 A VOYAGE TO ill ^ >777- February, ^^"Oi two o'clock the next morning, when we had a few hours calm. After which we had a breeze at North ; bvit here it wednef. 26. fixed not long, before it veered to the Eaft, and after that to Thurfdayz;. the South. At length, on the 27th, at eight o'clock, in the morning, we took our departure from Cape Pallifer, which, at this time, bore Weft, feven or eight leagvies diftant. We had a fine gale, and I fleered Eaft by North. We had no fooner loft fight of the land than our two New Zealand adventurers, the fea ficknefs they now exjie- rienced giving a turn to their refle(£lions, rej^ented heartily of the ftep they had taken. All the foothing encourage- ment we could think of, availed but little. They wept, both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a kind of fong, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was expreflive of their praifes of their country and people, from which they were to be feparated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, tin their fea ficknefs wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to fubfide. Then thefe fits of lamentation became lefs and lefs frequent, and at length entirely ceafed. Their native country and their friends were, by degrees, forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us, as if they had been born amongft us. The wind had not remained many hours at South, before it veered to South Eaft and Eaft ; and, with this, we ftood to Friday 28. the North, till the 28th at noon. Being then in the latitude of 41° 17', and in the longitude of 177° 17' Eaft, we tacked and ftood to the South Eaft, m ith a gentle breeze at Eaft North Eaft. It afterward frefliened, and came about to North Eaft ; in which quarter it continued two days, and fbmetimes blew a frefh ^ale wnh fqualls, accompanied with fhowers of rain. On Si •■!•■ :f. :S i THE P A M F I C OCEAN. 169 «777- March. On the 2d of Marc . at noon, being in the latitude of 42° 35' 30'', longitude 180° 8' Eaft, the wind Ihifted to North Weft; afterward to South. Weft; and between this point Sundays. and North it continued to blow, fometimes a ftrong gale with hard Iqualls, and at other times very moderate. With this wind we fteered North Eaft by Eaft and Eaft, under all tlie fail we could carry, till the nth at noon, at which Tuefday u. time we were in the latitude of 39° 29', longitude 196" 4' Eaft. The wind now veered to North Eaft and South Eaft, and I ftood to the North, and to the North Eaft, as the wind would admit, till one o'clock in the morning on the i6th, Sunday 16. when having a more favourable gale from the North, I tacked and ftood to the Eaft ; the latitude being 33° 40', and the longitude 198° 50' Eaft. We had light airs and calms by turns, till noon the next day, when the wind began to Monday 17. freftien at Eaft South Eaft, and 1 again ftood to the North Eaft. But as the wind often veered to Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, we frequently made no better than a northerly courfe ; nay fometimes to the Weftward of North. But the hopes of the wind coming more Southerly, or of meeting with it from the Weftward, a little without the Tropic, as I had experienced in my former viftts to this ocean, encouraged me to continue this courfe. Indeed it was neceffary that I Ihould run all rifks, as my proceeding to the North this year, in profecution of the principal obje777- March. 't !■* I id .c- ■».'■ T72 A VOYAGE TO ' ■ hi i s m : 'H !■ f T' I'* >777- March. pciiy, put the qiieftion to them, Whether they ever eat human flelh ? which they anfwered in the negative, with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whole name was Mourooa, being afked how he came by a fear on his forehead, told us that it was the confequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an iiland, which lies to the North Eaftward, who fometimes came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, who underftood them pretty well, that their countrymen on Hiore had given them this caution, at the fame time dire(Sling them to inquire, from whence our Ihip came, and to learn the name of the Captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the ifland, which they called Mangya or Mangeea ; and fometimes added to it Nooey nai, naiwa. The name of their Chief, they faid, was Orooaeeka. Mourooa was lufty and well made, but not very tall. His features were agreeable, and his difpofition feemingly no lefs fo; for he made feveral droll gcfticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a lliare of humour. He alfo made others which fecmed of a ferious kind, and re- peated fomc words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope at the fliip's ftern ; which was pro- bably to recommend himfelf to the protection of fome Di- vinity. His colour was nearly of the fame caft with that common to the moft fouthern Europeans. The other man was not fo handfome. Both of them had ftrong, ftraight hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore fuch girdles as we had perceived about thofe on Ihore, and we found they were a fubftance made from the Morus papyrifera^ in the fame 'ti, / 1 T 1 ii aiJbt THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fame manner as at the other iilands of this, ocean. It was glazed like the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly Iilands ; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which is found at Otaheite. They had on, a kind of fan- dais, made of a grafly fubftance interwoven, which we alfo obferved were worn by thofe who flood upon the beach ; and, as we fuppofed, intended to defend their feet againil the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the infide of their arms, from the llioulder to the elbow, and fome other parts, were pundtured or tatooedf after the man- ner of the inhabitants of almoft all the other iflands in the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather flit, and to fuch a length, that one of them ftuck there a knife and fome beads, which he had received from us ; and the fame perfon had two poliflied pearl-fliells, and a bunch of human hair, loofely twifled, hanging about his neck, which was the only ornament we obferved. The canoe they came in (which was the only one we faw), was not above ten feet long, and very narrow ; but both ftrong and neatly made. The forepart had a flat board fallened over it, and proje<5ting out, to prevent the fea getting in on plunging, like the fmall Evaas at Otaheite ; but it had an upright flern, about five feet high, like fome in New Zea- land ; and the upper end of this ftern-poft was forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood ; but the upper was black, and their paddles, made of wood of the fame colour, not above three feet long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end of the canoe for- ward indifferently ; and only turned about their faces to paddle the contrary way. We now flood off and on ; and as foon as the fliips were in a proper flation, about ten o'clock I ordered two boats, one 173 «777. March. ;.' I. 174 A VOYAGE TO March. 5 ) I n ^ ll'f. •.mam i' in-- |L m\ one of them from the Difcovery, to found the coaft, and to endeavour to find a landing-place. With this view, I went in one of them myfelf, taking with me fuch articles to give the natives, as I thought might ferve to gain their good- will. I had no fooner put off from the Ihip, than the canoe, with the two men, which had left ais not long be- fore, paddled toward my boat ; and, having come along- llde, Mourooa ftept into her, without being afked, and without a moment's hefitation. Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him, where we could land ; and he dire<5led us to two different places. But I faw, with regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, unlefs at the rifk. of having our boats filled with water, or even ttaved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our fearch for anchorage ; for we could find no bottom, till within a cable's length of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fa- thoms depth, oVer fliarp coral rocks ; fo that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger than landing. While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the fhore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As many of them complied, I judged he muft be a perfon of fome confequence among them. Indeed, if Ave underftood him right, he was the king's brother. So great was the curiofity of feveral of them, that they took to the water, and, fwimming off to the boats, came on board them without referve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out ; and ftill more difficult to prevent 3 their :• ,1: 1*1. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. their carrying off every thing they could lay their hands upon. At length, when they perceived that we were re- turning to the fhipsy they all left us, except our original vifiter Mourooa. He, though not without evident figns of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on board the fhip. The cattle and other new objects, that prefented them- felves to him there, did not ftrike him with fo much fur- prife as one might have expedled. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own fafety, to allow him to attend to other things. It is certain, that he feemed very uneafy ; and the fliip, on our getting on board, happening to be ftanding off Ihore, this circumftance made him the more fo. I could get but little new information from him ; and therefore, after he had made a Ihort ftay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As foon as he got out of the cabin, he happened to ftumble over one of the goats. His curiofity now overcoming his fear, he flopped, looked at it, and afked Omai, what bird this was ? and not receiving an immediate anfwer from him, he repeated the quertion to feme of the people uix>n deck. The boat hav- ing conveyed him pretty near to the furf, he leaped into the fea, and fwam alhore. He had no fooner landed, than the multitude of his countrymen gathered round him, as if with an eager curiolity to learn from him what he had feen; and iii this lituation they remained, when we loft fight of them. As foon as the boat returned, we hoifted her in, and made fail from the land to the Northward. Thus were we obliged to leave, unvifited, this fine iiland, which feemed capable of fupplying all our wants. It lies in the latitude of ai° 57' South ; and in the longitude of 17s 201° 53' Eaft. Such parts of the coaft, as fell under our obfervation. >777- March. m m ■ ■" ''IT 176 >777- March. ' ■ -r ^'i i-i Wj': . '' ■■ \w' '■ ■ :;^'' ilr • 11 % it?- i; A VOYAGE TO obfervation, are guanled by a reef of coral rock, on the out- iide of which the fea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height ; though, in clear weather, it may be certainly feen at the diftance of ten leagues ; for we had not loft fight of it at night, when we had run above feven leagues, and the weather was cloudy. In the middle, it rifes into little hills, from whence there is a gentle defcent to the Ihore, which, at the South Weft part, is ftcep, though not above ten or twelve feet high ; and has feveral excavations made by the beating of the waves againft a brownifli fand-ftone of which it is comi>ofed. The defcent here is covered with trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which feem all of one fort, unlefs neareft the ftiore, where there are great numbers of that fpecies of dracana found in the woods of New Zealand, which are alfo fcattered in fome other places. On the North Weft part, the fliore, as wc mentioned above, ends in a fandy beach ; beyond which the land is broken down into fmall chafms or gullies, and has a broad border of trees refembling tall willows ; which, from its regularity, might be fuppofed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think fo. Farther up on the afcent, the trees were of the deep green mentioned before. Some of us fuppofed thefe to be the rima^ intermixed with low cocoa palms ; and a few of fome other forts. They feemed not fo thick as on the South Weft part, and higher ; which ap- pearance might be owing to our nearer approach to the ftiore. On the little hills, were fome trees of a taller fort, thinly fcattered ; but the other parts of them were either bare, and of a reddifli colour, or covered with fomething like fern. Upon the whole, the illand has a pretty afpe^t, and might be made a beautiful fpot by cultivation. As ■i '\ m,::% THE PACIFIC OCEAN. As the inhabitants feemcd to be both numerous and well fed, fuch articles of provifion as the illand produces muft be in great plenty. It might, however, be a matter of cu- riofity to know, particularly, their method of fubfiftence ; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro. The only birds we faw, were fome while egg-birds, terns, and noddies ; and one white heron, on the fhore. The language of the inhabitants of Mangcea is a dialcdl of that fpoken at Otaheitc ; though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps peculiar to this ifland, are here fubjoined, as taken, by Mr. Anderfon, from Omai, who had learnt them in his converfations with Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there rs any re- femblance, are placed oppofite. 177 ^r ftrcb. I' 4 Englifli. Mangeea. Otaheite. ^ cocoa nut. Eakkaree, Aree. Bread-fruit, Kooroo, Ooroo. A canoe. Ewakka, Evaa. Friend, Naoo, mou. A man, Taata, or Tangata, Taata. Cloth, OT clotb plpnt , Taia, taia aoutee, Eoute. Good, Mata, Myty. A club, Pooroohee. res. Aee, Ai. No, Aoure, Aoure. A/pear, Heyhey. A fight, or battle. Etamagee, Tamaee. A woman. Waheinc, Waheine. Vol. I. Aa 178 A V O Y A c; E r o 1777. March. liiiguni. 1 » t-. ■ Man^eea, Maheine) Meetaia matooa. Ou, Euta, Ehataieee? Oo. EreekeCf Otabeite. Maheine. Wou. Euta. Owytaieeoa ? Erce. Adau^^btery ^ 'The fully U Tbejbore, What is (batt There y A chief, ^ ^ r / 1 Manna fan adjun^l Great,oTpowerful,\ ,, ,^^_^^. To kifsy ■ Ooma. The natives of Mangeca feem to refemble thofe of Ota- hcite and the Marquefas in the beauty of their perfons, more than any other nation I have feen in thefe fcas ; hav- ing a finooth Ikin, and not being mufcular. Their general difpofition alfo correfponds, as far as we had opportunities of judging, with that which diftinguiflies the firll men- tioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa lliewed us, are acquainted with all the lafcivious gefticulations which the Otaheiteans pradlifc ii. meir dances. It may alfo be fuppofed, that their method of living is fi- milar. For, though the nature of the country prevented our feeing many of their habitations, we obfcrved one houfe near the beach, which much refembled, in its mode of conftrudlion, thofe of Otaheite. It was pleafantly lituated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet long, and feven or eight high, with an open end, which reprefented an ellipfe divided tranfverfely. Before it, was fpread fomething white on a few bullies ; which we con- jedtured to be a iilhing net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture. They hi'. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 179 They fiilute ftrangers much afu r the niannerof the New '777. Zealanders, by joining nofes ; aduing, howcvei , the addi- tional ceremony of taking the lia'id of the ^erfon to whom they are paying civilities, and rul>inng it witii a de-gree of force upon their nofe and mouth ^K • The inhabitants of the Palaos New Philippine, or rather Caroline Idandis at the diftance of tilinoft fift'^n hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the (kine mode of faludrion. ** Leur r' tl (^, < t la marque de leur refpedl, confifte k prendre la main ou le pied de celut <* k ^.i> 11 ' 777- Apul. following morning. Soon after, I fent two armed boats from the Rclblution, and one from the Difcovery, tinder the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring- Wcdnef. ? ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the illand with the fliips. Juft as the boats were putting off, we obl'erved Teveral fingle canoes coming from the fliore. They went firft to the Difcovery, flie being the neareft fliip. It was not long after, when three of thefe canoes came along-fide of the Refolution, each conduced by one man. They are long and narrow, and fupported by outriggers. The flern is elevated about three or four feet, fomething like a Ihip's Itern-poll. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our vifiters; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuVs, upon our afking for them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had received from us. For they feemed to have no idea of bartering ; nor did they appear to eftimate any of our i^refents at a high rate. With a little perfuafion, one of them made his canoe fall to the fliip, and came on board ; and the other two, en- couraged by his example, foon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their eafe, and felt no fort of apprehenfion of our detaining, or ufing them ill. After their departure, another canoe arrived, condud'ted by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a prcibnt to me ; alking for me by name, having learnt it from Omai, who was lent l)efore us in the boat with Mr. (lore. In return for this civilitv, I gave him an axe, and a piece of ' (.! i l82 A VOYAGE TO 1777- April. ^? of red cloth ; and he paddled back to the fhore well fatif- fied. I afterward underftood from Omai) that this pre- fent had been fent from the king, or principal Chief of the illand. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward us. As they drew near the fliip, they recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus *, one of their number firft (landing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finiflied their folemn chant, they came along-lide, and afked for the Chief. As foon as I fhewed myfelf, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the Ihip ; and the principal perfon in the canoe made me an additional prefent of a piece of matting, as foon as he and his companions got on board. Our viliters were condu;iJ i86 A VOYAGE TO r' t if :.' formation from our vifiters ; yet their venturing on board feemed to imply, at leaft, that their countrymen on fliore had not made an improper ufe of tne confidence put in then. At length, a little before fun-fet, we had the fatisfac- tion of feeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr. Gore himfelf, Omai, V.v. Anderfon, and Mr. Burney, were the only perfons who had landed. The tranfadtions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr. Gore ; but Mr. Anderfon's account of them being very particular, and including fome remarks on the ifland and its inhabitants, I fliall give it a place here, nearly in his own words. " We rowed toward a fmall fandy beach, upon which, and upon the adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives had aflembled ; and came to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little farther, from the fhore. Several of the natives fwam off, bringing cocoa nuts ; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them fenfible of our wifli to land. But their attention was taken up, for a little time, by the dog, which had been carried from the Ihip, and was juit brought on fliore, round whom they flocked with great eagernefs. Soon after, two canoes came off; and, to create a greater confidence in the iflanders, wc determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill. Mr. Burney, the firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, and I, went in one canoe, a little time before the other ; and our condmftors, watching attentively the motions of the lurf, landed us lafely upon the reef. An illander took hokl of each of us, obvioully with an intention to fupport us in walking, over the rugged rocksj to the beach, where feveral of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of the others met us, holding the green boughs, of a fpe- cies of Mimoja, in their hands, and fahited us by applying their nofes to ours. We were condudled from the beach by our guides, amidft a great crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiofity to look at us ; and wo\ild have prevented our proceeding, had not fome men, who feemed to have autho- rity, dealt blows, with little dillindion, amongft them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa- palms ; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their ftioulders, much in the manner wc rclt a mufquct. After walking a little way amongft thefe, we found a perfon who feemed a Chief, fitting on the ground crofs-legged, cooling himfelf with a fort of triangular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a poliflied handle, of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or ornament, to dirtinguifli him from the reft of the people ; though they all obeyed him with the greateft alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious, but not fevere countenance ; and we were defired to falute him as he fat, by fome people who feemed of confequence. We proceeded ftill amongft the men armed with clvibs, and came to a fecond Chief, who fat fanning himfelf, and ornamented as the firft. He was remarkable for his fize, and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the fame manner, we were condu(5ted to a third Chief, who feemed older than the two former, and, though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large lize. He alfo was fitting, and adorned with red feathers ; B b 2 and ri.ff 187 «777- April. '4A Wi.:- 1 88 A VOYAGE ro '777- April. V- and after faluting him as we had done the others, he de- lired lis both to fit down. Which we were very willing to \s Edif. ct Curieufes., Tom. xv. p. 315. See alfo, in the (ame volume, p. 207. what is faid of the fmging and dancing of the inhabitants of the Palaos Iflands, which belong to the fame group. 3 countenance THE PACIFIC OCEAN. T89 countenance cxpreiTcd a degree of complacency and mo- defty, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more confpicuous here, where Nature prefented us with her produ777- April. m^': ''f '■! r ^U m t above an hour apart from my friends ; and when I told the Chief, with whom I fat, that I wanted to i'peak to Omai, he peremptorily refufed my reqiielt. At the fame time, I found the people began to fteal feveral trifling things which I had in my ix)cket ; and when I took the liberty of com- plaining to the Chief of this treatment, he juitified it. From thefe circumrtances, I now entertained apprehenfions, that they might have formed the defign of detaining us amongll them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a difpofition lb favage, as to make us anxious for the fafety of our pcribns; but it was, neverthelefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded being detained by their curiofity. hi this lltuation, I alked for fomething to eat ; and they readily brought to me fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which was prefented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the Chief himfelf condefcended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth) which he had round his waill. Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my fufpicions , o him ; and, to put it to the teft, whether they were well-tcunded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were ftop^^'^d, when about half-way, by fome men, who told us, that we muft go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the fame apprehenfions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reafon for being afraid ; for he had obferved, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could aflign no other reafon for this, than that they meant to roaft, and eat us, as is pradtifed by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went fo far as to afk them the queftion ; at which they were greatly furprized, afking, in return, whether that was a cuftom .4 ; • .1 • il Hi ': THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 191 a cuftom with us ? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they Ihould be thus fufpedlcd l)y him ; there having, as yet, been no appearances, in their condu<5t toward us, of their being capable of fuch brutality. In this manner we were detained the greateft part of the day, being fometimes together, and fometimes I'eparated; but always in a crowd ; who, not fatisficd with gazing at us, frequently defired us to uncover parts of our Ikin ; the fight of which commonly produced a general murmur of admiration. At the fame time they did not omit thefe op- portunities of rifling our pockets ; and, at laft, one of them fnatched a fmall bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its flieath by his fide. This was reprefented to the Chief, who pretended to fend fome perfon in fearch of it. But, in all probability, he countenanced the theft ; for, foon after, Omai had a dagger ftolen from his fide, in the fame man- ner; though he did not mifs it immediately. Whether they obfervcd any figns of uneafinefs in us, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendfliip when we cxprelTed a defire to go, I cannot tell ; but, at this time, they brought fome green boughs, and, flicking their ends in the ground, defired we might hold them as we fat. Upon our urging again the bufinefs we came upon, they gave us to underftand, that we mtift flay and eat with them ; and a pig which we faw, foon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehenfion of being put into it himfelf ; and made us think it might be intended for our repaft. The Chief alfo promifed to fend fome people to procure food for the catti^ ; but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon, that we fiiw them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boats ^ In 1777' April. :M IQi >777' April. ,.. , , J ? 'Til ■-if "Au Ff M, A VOYAGE TO In the mean time, Mr. Ikirncy and I attempted again to jC[o to the beach ; but when we arrived, t'oiuul ovuitives walclied by people, who, to appearance, hail been plac;ed there for this purpofe. For when I tried to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged mc back. I picked up fome fmall pieces of coral, which they recpiired me to throw down again; and, on my refu- I'al, they made no fcruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered fome fmall plants; but thefe alio I could not be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had received as a prelent on coming ailiore. Omai faid, we had done wrong in taking up any thing; for it was not the cullom here to permit freedoms of that kind to ftrangcrs, till they had, in fome meafure, na- turalized them to the covnitry, by entertaining them with feftivity for two or three days. Finding that the only method of procuring better treat- ment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had left ; and they now promifed, that we fliould have a canoe to carry us off to our boats, after we had eaten of a repaft which had been prepared for us. Accordingly, the fecond Chief, to whom we had been in- troduced in the morning, having feated himfelf upon a low broad ftool of blackifh hard wood, tolerably poliflied, and directing the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made us fit down by him. A confidcrable number of cocoa-nuts were now brought ; and, Ihortly after, a long green bafket, with a fufficient quantity of baked plantains to have ferved a dozen perfons. A piece of the young hog, that had been 777' April. . wm fe Iff' ]». I 4^' v} ill;; '^i'it' too «777- April. W ■ I il ■•' H A VOYAGE TO i Gallons than one, of being brought forward to bear a prin- cipal part in its tranfadlions. The ifland, though never before vifited by Etiropeans, adlually happened to have other ftrangers refiding in it ; and it was entirely owing to Omai's being one of Mr. Gore's attendants, that this cu- rious circumllance came to our knowledge. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, amongft the crowd there alTembled, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Illands. At the diftance of about two hundred leagues from thofe iflanc's, an im- nicnlb, unknown ocean intervening, with fuch wretched fca-boats as their inhabitants r;re known to make ufe of, and fit only for a paffage where fight of land is fcarcely ever lolt, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidentally vifited by us, may well be looked upon as one of thofe un- expedled lltuations, with which the writers of feigned ad- ventures love to furprize their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deferve to be recorded for their fingularity. It may ealily be guefled, with what mutual furprize and fatisfadion Omai and his countrymen engaged in converfa- tion. Their llory, as relatetl by them, is an affedling one. About twenty perfons in number, of both fexes, had em- barked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to crofs over to the neighbouring iiland Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arif- iiig, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their intended paflage being a very fliort one, their ilock of provifions was fcanty, and loon exhauftetl. The hardlhips they fuffered, ^hilc driven along by the ftorm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They pafled many days without having any thing to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminilhed, \\ orn ovit by famine ,^^^)iim THE PACIFIC OCEAN. famine and fatigue. Four men only furvived, when the canoe overfet ; and then the perdif ion of this fmall rem- nant feemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the fide of their veffel, during fome of the laft days, till Providence brought them in fight of the people of this iiland, who immediately fent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and brought them afhore. Of the four who were thus faved, one was lince dead. The other three, \vho lived to have this opportunity of giving an account of their almoft miraculous tranfplantation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. And fo well fatisfied were they with their fituation, that they refilled the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's reqxieif, of giving them a paffage on board our Ihips, to reftore them to their native illands. The fimilarity of manners and language, had more than naturalized them to this {\K>t ; and the frefli connexions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, after fuch a length of time, fufficiently account for their declining to revifit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this iiland at leaft twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr. Anderfon, that he found they knew nothing of Captain Wallis's vifit to Otaheite in 1765 ; nor of feveral other me- morable occurrences, fuch as the conqueft of Ulietea by thofe of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Europeans. To Mr. Anderfon I am allb indebted for their names, Orououte, Otirreroa, and Tavee ; the firft, born at Matavai in Otaheite ; the fecond, at Ulietea ; and the third at Huaheine. The landing of our gentlemen on this iiland, though they failed in the objetft of it, cannot but be confidered as a very fortunate circumitancc. It has proved, as we have Vol. I. D d feen, a6i Aprii> ..'l^ i02 "77?- April, m •i A VOYAGE TO leen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of fadt, not only very curious, but very inllrudlive. The ap- plication of the above narrative is obvious. It will ferve to explain, better than a thoufancl conjectures of fpeculative reaibners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the illands of the South Sea, may have been firlt i>eoplcd ; cfpccially thole that lie remote from any in- habitetl continent, or from each other 'i*. This illand is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of 20° i' South, and in the longitvide 201° 45' Eall, and is about fix leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful fpot, with a furface compofed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen found the foil, where they paffed the day, to be light and fandy. But farther up the country, a different fort, per- haps, prevails ; as we lliw from the fliipj by the help of our glalles, a reddilh call upon the rifing grounds. There • Such accidents as this here related, probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In i6g6, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both fexes, were driven, by con- trary winds and tempcftuous weather, on the iflc of Samal, one of the Philippines, after iK'ing toft about at fea feventy days, .md having performed a voyage, from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to the Eaft of Samal. Five of the number who had em- barked, died of the hardfhips fuft'ercd during this extraordinary paflagc. Sec a particulai' account of them, and of the iflands tiiey belonged to, in Lellres Edifitintes y CurietiftS., Tom. XV. from p. 196. to p. 215. In the fame Volume, from p. 282. to p. 320. we have the relation of a fimilar adventure, in 1721, when two canoes, one containing twen- ty-four, and the other fix perfons, men, women, and children, were driven, from an ifland they called Farroilep, Northward to the Ifle of (juam, or Guahan, one of the Ladror.ts or Mariannes. But thefe had not failed fo far as their countrymen, who reached Samal as above, and they had been at fea only twenty daj'S. There fceins to be no reafon to doubt tlic general authent Ity of thcfc two relations. The information contained in the letters of the Jefuits, about thcfe iflands, now known under the name of the Carolines, and difcovcrcd to the Spaniards by tlie arrival of tlic canoes at Samal and Guam, has been adopted by ail our later writers. See Prefident dc Brofle's Voyages aux Tares AuJlraUsy Tom. ii. from p. 443. to p. 490. Sec alfo the Mxhrn Univrfd Hijiory, the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the inhabitants have their hoafcs ; for wc could perceive two or three, which were long an'\ fpacious. Its produce, with the addition of hogs, we found to be the fame as at the laft illand we had vifited, which the j^eople of this, tc whom we pointed out its pofition, called Owhavarouah ; a name fo different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, wliich we learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable Owhavarouah is another illand. - ,u ■ . ?> ii. From the circumftances already mentioned, it appears, that Watceoo can be of little ufe to any fliip that wants re- frefliment, unlefs in a cafe of the moil abfolule neceflity. The natives, knowing now the value of fome of our com- modities, might he induced to bring off truits and hogs, to a Ihip Handing off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any frefli water covild be procured. T'or, though fome was brought, in cocoa nut fliells, to the gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a conliderable dillanco ; and, probably, it is only to be met with in fome ftagnant pool, as no running itream was any where feen. According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conver- fation with his three countrymen, the manners of thefe illanders, their method of treating llrangers, and their ge- neral habits of life, are much like thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring illcs. Their religious cere- monies and opinions are alio nearly the fame. For, upon feeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and incpiiring the realbn, our gentlemen were told, that he had lately been paying the laft good offices to a de- cealed friend ; and they found, that it was upon fimilar occalions^ the women cut themfelves, as already mentioned. I'Yom every circumftance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the D d 2 natives ■ 403 «777' April. l!l«- ''■h .' %-, , ' lO ft. w,'' I'. if i: 204 «777- April. A VOYAGE TO natives of Wateeoo fprung, originally, from the fame flock, which hath fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all over the im- menfe extent of the South Sea. One would fuppofe» how- ever, that they put in their claim to a more illuftrious ex- tradlion ; for Omai afl'ured us, that they dignifie Iboncr reached the lee, or Welt fide of the illaiid, but they ventured in, and Mr. CJorc and his party got lal'e on Ihore. J could, trom the Ihip, lee that they had I'ucceeded lo far ; and 1 immediately lent a Imall boat to know what farther afliltancc was \\ anting. She did not return till three o'clock in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what uleful produce tiie iiland afforded. As foon as flie was cleared, Ihe was lent again for another cargo ; the Jolly boat was alio dilpatchcd, and Mr. Gore was ordered to be on board, with all the boats, before night ; which was com- plied with. The fupply obtained here, confiitcd of about a hun- dred cocoa nuts for each fliip ; and befules this refrefli- ment for ourfelves, we got for our cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and blanches of young cocoa trees, and of the ivbana tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the pan- danus of the Eall Indies. This latter being of a f: 2IO A VOYAGE TO April. had it cropped pretty fliort ; and, in two or three of them, it was of a brown, or reddifli colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt feveral times round the lower part of the body, and which pafled between the thighs ; but a fine cap of red feathers was feen lying in one of the canoes. The 111 ell of a pearl-oyfter poliflied^ and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental fafliion that we obfcrved amongft them ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, fo generally prevalent amongft the natives of this Ocean, of pun , >'clock, the boats returned; and Mr. King in- formed ' ^ That there was no anchorage for the fliips ; and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He faid, that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppofe his landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, they threw fome cocoa-nuts to our people, and invited them to come on fhore ; though, at the very fame time, he obferved that the women were very bufy bringing down a frelh fupply of fpears and darts. But, as he had no motive to land, he did not give them an oppor- tunity to ufe them." Having received this report, I confidered, that, as the fliips could not be brought to an anchor, we fliould find that the attempt to procure grafs here, would occafion much delay, as well as be attended with fome danger. Befides, E e 2 we 2TT 1777- April. ■}' . !, I \- m m 3' T W m m fi f 212 A VOYAGE TO «777- April. 1 i i I? ' li . , i we were equally in want of water ; and though the inha- bitants had told us, that there was water on their 'fland, yet we neither knew in what quantity, nor from what dif- tance, we might be t .Jged to fetch it. And, after all, fuppofing no other obftrudtion, we were fure, that to get over the reef, would be an operation equally difficult and tedious. Being thus difappointed at all the iflands we had met with, lince our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavour- able winds, and other unforefeen circiimftances, having unavoidably retarded our progrefs fo much, it was now impoffible to think of doing any thing this year, in the high latitudes of the Northern hemifphere, from which we were ftill at fo great a diilance, though the feafon for our operations there was already begun. In this fituation, it was abfolutely neceffary to purfue fuch meafures as were moft likely to prefei-ve the cattle we had on board, in the firlT: place ; and, in the next j^lace (which was ftill a more capital objedl), to fave the ftores and provifions of the fliips, that we might be better enabled to profecute our Northern dilcoveries, which could not now commence till a year later than was originally intended. If 1 had been fo fortunate as to have procured a fupply of water, and of grafs, at any of the iilands we had lately vifited, it was rny purpole to ha\ e ftood back to the South, till I had met with a Wcfterly wind. But the certain con- fequence of doing this, Avithout fuch a fupply, would have been the lofs of all the cattle, before we could poffibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage, with regard to tlie great objed: of our voyage. I, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly Iflands, where I was fure of meeting with abiuidance of every IV- !* THE PACIFrC OCEAN. 213 '777- April. every thing I wanted : and it being neceffary to run in the night, as well as in the day, I ordered Captain Gierke to keep about a league ahead of the Refolution. I ufed this precaution, becaufe his Ihip could beft claw off the land ; and it was very poflible we might fall in with fome, in our pafTage. The longitude of Hervey's Ifland, when firft difcovered, deduced from Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201° 6' Eaft, and now, by the fame time-keeper, dedviced from Queen Charlotte's Sound, 200° 56' Eaft. Hence 1 con- clude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did not exceed twelve miles in longitude. When we bore away, I fteered Weft by South, with a fine breeze Eafterly. 1 propofed to proceed firft to Middls"- burgh, or Eooa ; thinking, if the wind continued favour- able, that we had food enough on board, for the cattle, to laft till we fliould reach that ifland. But, about noon, next day, thofe faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us Monday 7. fo long, again returned ; and I found it neceffary to haul more to the North, to get into the latitude of Palmerfton'a and Savage Iflands, difcovered in 1774, during my laft voy- age ■'••• ; that, if necelfity required it, we might have re- courfe to them. This day, in order to fave our water, I ordered the ftill to be kept at work, from fix o'clock in the morning to four in the afternoon ; during which time, we procured from thirteen to fixteen gallons of frelh water. There has been lately made Ibme improvement, as they are pleafed to call it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the vvorfe. Thefe light breezes continued till the loth, when we Thurfday lo. * See Cook's Vopge, Vol. ii. p. 2. 3. had, if 11 i'3 H m ('!'': *'',i.' ii4 A VOYAGE TO Mi Wr m^ had, for Ibme hours, the wind blowing frefli from the North, and North North Weft ; being then in the lati- tude of t8' 38', and longitude 198° 24' Eall. In the after- noon, we had fome thunder fqualls from the South, at- tended with heavy rain ; of which water we colle<5lf d enough to fill five puncheons. After thefe fqualls had blown over, the wind came round to tlie North Eaft, and North Well ; being very unfettled both in Itrength and iti Friday II. pofition, till about noon the next day, when it fixed at North Weft, and North North Weft, and blew a frefli breeze, with fau' weather. Thus were we perfecuted with a wind in our teeth, N\ hichever way we directed our courfe ; and we had the additional mortification to find here, thofu very winds, which w^e had reafon to expedl 8' or 10° farther South. They came too late ; for I durft not trvift their continuance ; and the event proved that I judged right. Siinday 13. At length, at day-break, in the morning of the 13th, we faw Palmerfton Illand, bearing Weft by South, diftant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it, till eight Monday 14. o'clock. the uext morning. I then fent four boats, three from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, with an officer in each, to fearch the coaft for the moft convenient landing-place. For, now, we were under an abfolute necef- fity of procuring, from this ifland, fome food for the cattle ; otherwife we muft have loft them. What is comprehended under the name of Palmerfton's Ifland, is a group of fmall illots, of which there are, in the wliole, nine or ten, lying in a circular diredlion, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. The boats firft examined the South Eafternmoft of the iflots which com- pofc this grouj> ; and, f;uling there, ran down to the fecond, where m ■ n THE PACIFIC OCEAN. where we had the fatisfadion to fee them land. I then bore down with the fhips, till abreaft of the place, and there we kept ftanding off and on. For no bottom was to be found to anchor upon ; which was not of much confe- quence, as the party who had landed from our boats, were the only human beings upon the ifland. About one o'clock, one of the boats came on board, laden with Icurvy-grafs and young cocoa-nut trees ; which, at this time, was a feaft for the cattle. The fame boat brought a meflage from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party, informing me, that there was plenty of fuch pro- duce upon the illand, as alio of the wharra tree, and fome cocoa-nvits. This determined me to get a good fupply of thefe articles, before I quitted this ftation ; and, before evening, I went afhore in a fmall boat, accompanied by Captain Clerke. We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a fmall creek, formed by the reef, of fome- thing more than a boat's length in every dircdlion, and co- vered from the force of the fea, by rocks projecting out on each fide of it. The ifland is fcarcely a mile in circuit ; and not above three feet higher than the level of the fea. It appeared to be compofed entirely of a coral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackifli mould, produced from rotten ve- getables. Notwithftanding this poor foil, it is covered with trees and buflies of the fame kind as at Wenooa-ette, though with lels variety ; and amongft thefe are fome cocoa palms. Upon the trees or buflies that front the fea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men of war birds. Tropic birds, and two forts of boobies, which, at this time, were laying their eggs, and fo tame, that they fuffered us to take them off with our hands. Their nefts were only a few iUcks ai5 1777' April. «[ i'Q hm M r 4: ^w r [^ ' 7 ;^- m..: , '.\6 •777- April. A VOYAGE TO fticks loofely put together ; and the Tropic birds laid their eg^;s on the ground, under the trees. Thefe differ much from the common fort, being entirely of a moll fplendid white, nightly tinged with red, and having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimfon or blood colour. Of each fort, nur people killed a confiderable number ; and, though not the moft delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us who had been long confined to a fait diet, and w^ho, confequently, could not but be glad of the moft indifferent variety. We met with vart numbers of red crabs, creeping about, every where amongft the trees ; and we caught fc- veral fifli that had been left in holes upon the reef, when the &a retired. At one part of the reei\ which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almoft even with the furface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the moft enchanting profpecfts, that Nature has, any where, produced. Its bafe wati fixed to the fliore, but reached fo far in, that it could not be feen ; fo that it feemed to be fufpended in the water, which deepened fo fuddenly, that, at the dirtance of a few yards, there might be fewcn or eight fathoms. The fea was, at this time, quite unruffled ; and the fun, fliining bright, expofed the various forts of coral, in the moft beautiful order ; fome parts branching into the water with great luxuriance ; others lying col- lected in round balls, and in various other figures ; all which were greatly heightened by fpangles of the richert colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were every where interf])crfed. But the appearance of thefe was ftill inferior to that of the multitude of filhes, that glided gently along, feemingly with the moft perfect fecurity. The colours of the difl'erent forts were the moft beautiful .!•:. X^ : THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 217 '^'w^HH^^H Mm 1 •777; April. beautiful that can be imagined ; the yellow, blue, red, black, &c. far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Their various forms, alfo, contributed to increafe the rich- nefs of this fubmarine grotto, which could not be furveyed without a pleafing tranfport, mixed, however, with regret, that a work, fo ftupendoully elegant, Ihould be concealed, in a place where mankind could feldom have an oppor- tvmity of rendering the praifes juftly due to fo enchanting a fcene. There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here ; if we except a fmall piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach ; which, probably, may have drifted from fome other illand. But, what is pretty extraordi- nary, we faw feveral fmall brown rats on this fpot ; a cir- cumftance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unlefs we allow that they were imported in the canoe of which we faw the remains. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pafs the night on fliore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning. That day, being the 15th, was accordingly fpent, as the Tuefdayij. preceding one had been, in colIe(5ling, and bringing on board, food for the cattle, confifting chiefly of palm-cab- bage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the wbarra tree. Having got a fufficient fupply of thefe, by funfet, I ordered every body on board. But having little or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day, by endeavouring to get fome cocoa-nuts for our peo- ple, from the next illand to leeward, where we could ob- fei^ve that thofc trees were in much greater abimdance, than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of our cattle had been relieved. Vol. I. F f With 'I (I nv.: *' '1 m :t'ltki ■'■!■ i t I H w m 3l8 •777- April. W.dnef. 16. Thurfdayj;. A VOYAGE TO With this view, I kept ftanding off and on, all night ; and, in the morning, between eight and nine o'clock, 1 went with the boats to the Well fide of the illand, and landed with little difficulty. I immediately fet the people with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedious operation ; for we were obliged to carry them at leall half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in wa- ter. Omai, who was with me, caught, with a Icoop net, in a very fliort time, as much fifli as IcMved the whole party on fliore for dinner, befides fending fome to both fliips. Here were alfo great abundance of birds, particu- larly men-of-war and Tropic birds ; fo that n e fared lump- tuouily. And it is but doing juftice to Omai to fay, that, in thefe excurfions to the uninhabited illands, he was of the greateft ufe. For he not only caught the fifh, but drefled thefe, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated (tones, after the fafliion of his covmtry, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats made two trips, before night, well laden ; with the laft, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamfon, my third Lieutenant, with a party of men, to prepare ano- ther lading for the boats which I propofed to fend next nlorning. I, accordingly, difpatched them at feven o'clock, and they returned laden by noon. No time was loft in fending them back for another cargo ; and they carried orders for every body to be on board by funfet. This being complied with, we hoiftcd in the boats and made fail to the Weftward, with a light air of wind from the North. We found this iilot near a half larger than the other, and almoft entirely covered with cocoa-palms ; the greateft part of -;ti' ■v„tv .* \ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of which abounded with excellent nuts, having, often, both old and young on the fame tree. They were, indeed, too thick, in many places, to grow with freedom. The other produiSlions were, in general, the fame as at the other iflot. Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical paddle, %vere found on the beach. Probably, thefe had belonged to the fame canoe, the remains of which were feen on the other beach, as the two illots are not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had alfo been lately thrown alhore here, as it was Hill full of maggots. There were fewer crabs than at the laft place ; but we found fome fcorpions, a few other infe<5ts, and a greater number of fifh upon the reefs. Amongft thefe were fome large eels, beau- tifully fpotted, which, when followed, would raife them- felves out of the water, and endc.ivour, with an open mouth, to bite their purfuers. The other forts were, chiefly, par- rot-filh, fnappers, and a brown fpotted rock-fifli, about the fize of a haddock, fo tame, that inftead of fwimming away, it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. Had we been in ab- folute want, a fufficient fupply might have been had ; for thoufands of the clams, already mentioned, ftuck uix)n the reef, fome of which weighed two or three pounds. There were, bcfides, fome other forts of fliell-fifh ; particularly, the large periwincklc. When the tide floweii, feveral fharks came in, over the leef, fome of which our people killed ; but they rendered it rather dangei fome fowls, a quanticy of finiit and roots for oarfelves, and fome grafs for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not fcem to be nume- rous ; and their huts, which flood clofe to each other, within a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from rhcm, was a pretty large pond of frcfli water, tolerably good ; but there was not any apjiearance of a flream. With Mr. King, came on board the Chief of the ifland, named Tooboulangee ; and another, whole name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a prefent to me, and proniifed more the next day. As loon as the boats were a])oard, I flood for Anna- mooka ; and the wind being ftant, I intended to go be- tween Annamooka-ette •■•■, and the breakers to the South lvA\ of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very irre- * Tliat is, Liitlo AnnamooLi. gular THE PACIFIC ocean: 227 >777- April. gular foundings, varying, every caft, ten or twelve fathoms. This obliged me to give up the defign, and to go to the Southward of all ; which carried us to leeward, and made it neceffary to fpend the night imder fail. It was very dark ; and we had the wind, from every direcStion, accom- panied with heavy fhowers of rain. So that, at day-light the next morning, we found ourfelves much farther off Wednef. 3a. than we had been the evening before ; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our teeth. We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpofe ; and, in the evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water; the bottom coral rocks, and broken fhells ; the Weft point of Annamooka bearing Eaft North Eaft, four miles diftant. Tooboulangee and Taipa kept their promife, and brought off to me fome hogs. Several others were alfo procured by bartering, from different canoes that followed us ; and as much fruit as we could well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our vifiters from the iflands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or two hogs. At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be May. hoifted owtj and fent the Mafter to found the So\ith Wefl '^^"'^^^^ '" fide of Annamooka ; where there appeared to be a har- bour, formed by the iiland on the North Eaft, and by fmall iftots, and flioals, to the South Weft and South Eaft. In the mean time, the fhips were got under fail, and wrought up to the ifland. When the ?vlafter returned, he reported, that he had founded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathom - depth of water, the bottom coral fand ; that the place was ^ ;r ; well flieltercd from all G g 2 winds ; ■i -..tVi •m- A- ftaS '777- May. A VOYAGE TO winds ; but that there was no frefh water to be found, ex- cept at fome diftance inland ; and that, even there, little of it was to be got, and that little not good. For this reafon only, and it was a very fufficient one, 1 determined to an- chor on the North fide of the ifland, where, during my laft voyage, I had found a place fit both for watering ai\d landing. It was not above a league diflant ; and yet we slid not reach it till live o'clock in the afternoon, being confiderably retarded b) tlic great number of canoes that contiimally crowded amnd :he fliips, bringing to vis abundant fiippli;:;s of the produ.ce jf their iiland. Amongfl thcfe canoes, there were fome doviblc onesj v,;ith a large fail, that carried be- tween forty and fifty men eajt\. Tbele failed round us, apparently, with the fame c^fc, as if wc had been at an- chor. TJicre weie fevt;ral women in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by curiofity to viilt vis; though, at the fame time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and ufed the padtlle with e;jual labovir and dexterity. I came to an an' J( i ■ir:iii..-. 'ifi w : '^ (, Wcdnef. 7. Thurfday 8. intr) uhkh tlic Chief ordered three hogs to be j)Ut, as a return tor the prclents he had received from me. I was now intbrmed of an accident whi»h hatl jull hajipened, the relation of which will convey lont iilea of the extent of the authority excrcifed here over the common people. While Fecnoii was on board my Ibip, an inferior Chief, ibr what rcafon our people on fliore did not know, ordered nil the natives to retire from the polt we occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took i.; large llick, and l)eat tlum moft unmercifully. He Ihiick. one man, on the iide of the face, with fo much violence, that the blootl gulhec'. out of his mouth and noibils; and, after lying ft)me time ii otionlefs, he was, at laft, removed from the place, in ronvvdlions. The penon who had inflicted the blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it ; and, it was evident, that he was not in the Icalt lorry for what had happened. Wc heard, afterward, that the jjoor fufl'erer recovered. The Difcovery having found again her fniall bower an- chor, Ihifted her birth on the yth ; but not before her bell ' ower cable had lliared the fate of the other. This day, I had the comj^any of Feenou at dinner ; and alfo the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and Ibme other Chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was al- lowed to fit at tal)le w ith him, or even to tat in his prefence. I own that 1 conlldered Feenou as a very convenient gueft, on account of this etiquette. I'or, before hi" UTival, 1 had, generally, a larger company than I could well find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both fexes. For it is not the cuftom at the Friendly lllands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men. I The \ " '^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. »33 1777' May. The firft day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had ftolen, out of the fliip» a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou to exert his authority to get it rcftored to me ; and fo implicitly was he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we Avere at dinner. Thefe people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were. Even Ibme of thrir Chiefs did not think this profellion beneath them. On the 9th, one of them Friday 9. was detected carrying out of the fliip, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the fpun yarn winch ; for which I fentenced him to receive a dozen laflies, and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, we were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants, or ilaves, however, were Hill employed in this dirty work ; and upon them a flogging feemed to make no greater im- preflion, than it would have done upon the main-maft. When any of them happened to be caught in the a<5l, their mailers, far from interceding for them, would often advife us to kill them. As this was a punilhment we did not choofe to infli<^t, they generally efcaped without any pu- nifliment at all ; for they appeared to us to be equally infen- iible of the fliame, and of the pain of corporal chaltifement. Captain Gierke, at laft, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, we thought, had lime effe6t. He put them under the han<' . of the barber, and completely fliaved their heads; thus pointing them out as objedls of ridicule to their coun- trymen, and enabling our people to deprive them of futvu'e opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a diltance. Feenou was fo fond of aflbciating with us, that he diiud on board every day ; though, fometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the loth, lome of his fervants brougiit a Saturday n Vol. I. H h mefs, iff $'l t*n *34 A VOYAGE TO «777- May. ¥1 * 1 Sunday 1 1 m mefs, which had l)ecn dreffcd for him on Ihorc. It confifted of fifli, foup, and yams. Inltcad of common water to make the foup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made ufe of, in which the filh had been boiled or dewed ; probably in a wooden veiFcl, with hot Hones ; but it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tailed of the mcfs, and found it fo good, that I, afterward, had Ibme fifli dreffed in the fame way. Though my cook fucceeded tolerably well, he could pro- duce nothing equal to the tlifli he imitated. Finding that wc had quite exhaufted the ifland, of almoft every article of food that it attbrded, 1 employed the nth in moving off, from the Ihore, the horfes, obfervatories, and other things that we had landed, as alfo the party of ma- rines who had mounted guard at our ftation, intending to fail, as foon as the Difcovery Ihould have recovered her bell bower anchor. Feenou, underftanding that I meant to pro- ceed dire<5tly to Tongataboo, importuned me ftrongly to alter this plan, to which he expreflcd as much averfion, as if he had ibme particular intereft to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an illand, or rather a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying to the North Eatt. There, he aflTured us, we could be iiqn plied plentifully with every refrefliment, in the eafieft manner; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in perfon. He cartied his point with me ; and Hapaee w as made choice of for our next ftation. As it had never been vifited by any European fliii)S, the examina- tion of it l>ecame an objedl with mc. The 1 2th, and the 13th, were fpcnt in attempting the re- covery of Captain Gierke's anchor, which, after much Wcdncf. 14. trouble, was happily accomplifhed ; and on the T4th, in the morning, we got under fail, and left Annamooka. This Mondny 1 1 Tuef'day 13 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. This illiiiul is ibmewhat higher than the other fmall illcs tl\at l\irro\iiKl it ; but, Itill, it cannot be admitted to the rank, of thole of a moderate height, fuch as Mangeea and Wateeoo. 'I'he fliore, at that part where oin- (hips lay, is (ompoil'd of a Itecp, rugged coral rock, nine or ten feet high, except where there are two {l\ndy beaches, \Nhich have a reef of the fame Ibrt of rock extending crofs their entrance to tl\e Ihore, and defending them from the Tea. The fait water lake that is in the centre of the iiland, is about a mile and a half broad ; anil roiuid it, the land riles like a bank, with a gradual afcent. But we could not trace its having any comnumication with the fea. And yet, the land that runs acrofs to it, from the largell fandy beach, being flat and low, and the foil fandy, it is moft likely that it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The foil on the rifing parts of the ifland, and efpecially toward the fea, is either of a reddifh clayey difpofition, or a black, loofe moidd ; but there is, no where, any Itream of frefli water. The illand is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and there are fome others, which, though they appear to lie wafte, are only left to recover the ftrength exhaurted by conftant culture ; for we frequently faw the natives at work upon thefe fpots, to plant them again. The plantations confift chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very extcnfive, and often inclofed with neat fences of reed, s, be fufiicient to allow double that number for the whole iiland. The place where fuch numbers ailemblcd daily, and the bay where our boats landed, are faithhdly reprcfcnted in a drawin;^ by Mr. Webber. To the Isortii and North Ealt of Annamooka, and in the dire.a \H' i * I ' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. :.\n. Cook himfelf, his mode of f[K'lling has been adopi; J on tlie engra'. ^d chart of the i'ri>.'ndly Iflands i which has made it nccell'ary to adopt it alfo, in printing the jourjul. them 237 »777- May. 238 A VOYAGE TO «777> May. i'^ i them are entirely clothed with trees, amongft which are many cocoa palms, and each forms a prolpeit like a beau- tiful garden placed in the fca. To heighten this, the ferene weather we now had, contributed very much; and the whole might fupi)ly the imagination with an idea of fome fairy land reaUzed. It fliould feem, that fome of them, at Icaft. may have been formed, as we fuppofed Palmer- fton's Illand to have been ; for there is one, which, as yet, is entirely fand, and another, on which there is only one bufli, or tree. At four o'clock in the afternoon being the length of Kotoo, the Wefternmoil of the above clufter of fmall illands, we fleered to the North, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the Weft fide of a reef of rocks, which lie to the Weftward of Kotoo, till \\c came to their Northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the illand. it was our intention to have anchored for the night ; but it came upon us before we could find a place in lefs than fifty-five fathoms water; and ratlier than come to in this depth, 1 chofc tu ipciid the night under fail. We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of Toofoa, the fmoke of which \vc faw feveral times in the day. The Friendly Iflanderfi have lome fuperftitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call Kollofeea^ and fay it is an Otooa^ or divinity. According to their account, it fome- times throws up very large ftones; and they compare the crater, to the fizc of a fmall illot, which has never ceafed fmoking in their memory ; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We fometimes faw the fmokc rifing from the centre of the ifland, while we were at Annamooka, though at the diftance of at leaft ten leagues. Toofoa, we were t(»ld, is but thinly inhabited, but the water ujwn it is good. At ml THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 239 »777« May. At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a vaft rock of a conic figure, we fteered to the Eaft, for the paffage between the iflands Footooha and Thurfday Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at South Eaft. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with us all day. He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of fruit ; and, in the courfe of the day, feveral canoes, from the different illands round us, came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our ftock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was 19° 49' 45'' South, and we had made feven miles of longitude from Anna- mooka; Toofoa bore North, 88" Weft; Kao North, 71° Weft ; Footooha North, 89° Weft; and Hafaiva South, 12° Weft. After palling Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks ; and, as there was but little wind, it coft us fome trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a fmall low ille, in the diredtion of Eaft North Eaft from Footooha, at the diftance of feven or eight miles. Footooha is a fmall ifland, of middling height, and bounded tdl round by a fteep rock. It lies South 67" Eaft, diftant fix leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of North 33° Eaft. Being paft the reef of rocks juft mentioned, we hauled Lip for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage ; but were agu'.u difappoint- ed, and obliged to fpend the night, making fhort boards. For, although we had land in every direction, the fea v/as unfathomable. In the courfe of this night, we could plainly fee flames iiTuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. At day-break in the morning of the i6th, with a gentle Friday i6, breeze at Sout'i Eaft, we fteered North Eaft for Hapaee, J which 2^0 A VOYAGE TO 1777- May. M'l Saturday 17. which was nou in light ; and we could judge it to be low land, from the trees only apjx^aring above the water. About aine o'clock ^ve could Ice it plainly forming three iflands, nearly of an equal fize ; and foon after, a fourth to the Southward of thefe, as large as the others. Each feemed to be abovit lix or fcvcn miles long, and of a fimilar heiglit and appearance. Tue Northernmolt of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lcfooga, and the Sourliernmoft Hcolaiva ; but all four are included, by the natives, under tlie general name Hapace. The wind icanting uix)n us, Me could not fetch the land ; fo that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing tiiis, M'e once palled over fome coral rocks, on which we had only lix fathoms uater; but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this time, the illes of Mapaee bore, from North, 50° Eaft, to South, 9"" Welt. We got up with the Northernmolt of thefe ifles by funfct ; and there fofind ourfelves in the very fame diftrefs, for want of anchorage, that wc had experienced the two preceding evenings ; lb that wc had another night to fpend under fail, with land and breakers in ev'cry dirciftion. To- ward the cv'cning, Feenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. He chd not forget our difagrecable lituation ; and kept up a good lire, all night, by way of a Lnd-mark. As foon as the day-light returned, being then dole in with Foa, we law it was joinctl to Haanno, by a reef running even with the furface of the lea, from the one ifland to the other. I now difpatched a boat to look for an- chorage. A iiro])cr place was foon found; and we came to, abrealt of a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in the fame manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. twenty- four fathoms depth of water; the bottom coral fand. In this ftation, the northern point of Hapaee, or the North end of Haanno, bore North, i6° Eaft. The So\nhern point of Hapaee, or the South end of Hoolaiva, South, 29° Weft ; and the North end of Lefooga, South, 65° Eaft. Two ledges of rocks lay without us ; the one bearing South, 50° Weft ; and the other Weft by North | North, diftant two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient landing at all times ; and we were not above three quarters of a mile from the lliore. 241 «777' May. V ,f.' I: Vol. T. I i C II A P. Ik ^4- A VOYAGE TO ' 'I i ^^ 5- Ft ' i ^ CHAP. V. Arrival of the Ships at Hapace^ and friendly Reception there. '^ Prefe'i^s and Solemnities on the Occajion. — Single Combats ivith dubs.—'WrejUing and Boxing Matches. — Female Co)):'!'^tants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed ./V i\lcll. Fircivorks exhibited. — The Nigbt-entcrtaiuments of and dancifig particularly defcribed. Saturday 1 7. i tii>. time we had anchored, the fliips were filled with the natives, and ivnrounded by a multitude of canoes, filled alio with them. They brought, from the fliore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for hatchets, knivc>, nails, beads, and cloth. Fecnou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of the iiland, I foon accompanied them on fliore, for that purpofe, landing at the North part of Le- fooga, a little to the right of the fliip's ftation. The Chief condxufled me to a houfe, or rather a hut, fituated dofe to the fea-beach, which 1 had {qcw brought thither, but a few minutes before, for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myfelf, were featcd. The other Chiefs, and the multitude, compofed a circle, on the out- fide, fronting us ; and they alio lat down. I was then aiked. Mow long I intended to (lay ? On my laying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come and lit by me, and pro- I claim THE PACIFIC OCEAN* 243 claim this to the people. He then harangued them, in a Ipeech mollly (U6tared by Feenou. The purport of it, as I , learnt from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to re- main with them a few days ; that, during my ftay, they mail not Ileal any thing, nor molcil me any other way ; and that it was expected, they fliould bring hogs, fowls, fruit, 8cc. to the fliips, viiere they would receive, in exchange for them, fuch ar.. uch things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had liniflied this addrels to the affembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occafion to fignify to me,, that it was neccfTary 1 fliould make a prefent to the Chief of the illand, whofe name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this ; and gave him fuch articles as far exceeded his ex- pedlation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands, of the fame kind, from two Chiefs of other ifles who were prefent ; and from Taipa himfelf. When Feenou returned, Avhich was immediately after 1 had made the laft of thefe prefents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for fuffer- ing me to give away fo much ; but I looked upon this as a mere fincffe ; being confident that he adled in concert with the others. He now took his feat again, and ordered Earoupa to fit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the fame purpofe ; didlating, as before, the heads of the fpeech. Thefc ceremonies being performed, the Chief, at my requeft, condudtcd me to three ftagnant pools of frefli wa- ter, as he was pleafed to call it : and, indeed, in one of thefe the water was tolerable, and the fituation not inconvenient for filling our cafks. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former ftation, \\ here I found a bake777- May. Mm • !■■ 'it '5 '■■H M«v. '■%{ i !1 Sunday 1 8. A V O Y A G E r O board for my ilinncr. I invited Fccnou, and his friends, to partake of it ; and we embarked for the Ihip ; but none but hinifelf fat down with us at the table. After dinner I con- ducted them on Ihore ; and, before I returned on board, the Clhief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. Our lupply of provifions was copious ; for, in the coinfe of the day, we got, by barter, along-fide the fliip, about twenty fmall hogs, bclide fruit and roots. I ^^as told, that on mv liril landing in the morniiig, a man came off to the fliips, and ordered every one of the natives to go on Ihore. Pro- bably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants [u'efent at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multitudes of them returned again to the ihips. Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who fcarcely ever quitted the Chief, and now ilept on fliorc, came on board. The object of the vifit, was to require my prcl'ence upon the ilia lid. After fome time, I accompanied them; and, upon landing, was conducted to the lame place where 1 had been leated the day before ; and where I faw a large concourfe of people already aifembled. I gueired that fomcthing more than ordinary was in agitation ; but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not been long feated, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in iight, and advanced, laden with yam>, bread-fruit, jilantains, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-cancs. They depofited their burdens, in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the fitle they came from. Six^n after, arriwd a number of others from the right, bearing the faiiK^ kind of articles; which were col!ed;ed into two piles vqxM\ that i\de. To thei'e were tied two pigs, ami fix K>wls ; and to thofe, upon the left, fix i>igs, and two turtles. Earoupa feared THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Icatcd himfelf before the feveral articles upon the left ; and another Chief before thofe upon the right ; they being, as 1 judged, the *■ .) Chiefs who had colledl:ed them, by order of Feenou, who bemed to be as implicitly obey- ed here, as h. had been at Annamooka; and, in confe- qvience of his commanding fuperiority over the Chiefs of llapaee, had laid this tax upon them for the prefent oc- cafion. As foon as this munificent colletlion • ' provifions was laid down in order, and difpofed to the belt advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Prefently atier, a number of men en- tered thi circle, or area, before us, arn ^d with clubs, made of the gr. n branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Thefe paraded about, for a few minutes, and then retired; the one half to one fide, and the other half to the other fide ; feating them- felves> before the fpedtators. Soon after, they fucceflively entered the lifts, and entertained us with fingle combats. One champion, rifing up and ftepping forward from one fide, challenged thofe of the other fide, by exprefllive gef- tures, more than by words, to lend one of their body to op- pofe him. If the challenge was accepted, which was gene- rally the cafe, the two combatants put themfelves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagc";iont, which con- tinued till one or other owned himfeJt , ;viquered, or till their weapons were broken. As foon is each combat was over, the vidlor fquatted himfelf down facing the Chief, then role vip, and retired. At the fiime time, fome old me i, who ieemed to fit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words ; and the multitude, efpecially thofe on the fide to which the vidlor belonged, celebrated t'.i . glory he had ac- quired, in two or three huzzas. This =4= May. I ! ;i J-} 'I- i 146 «777' May. Mir A VOYAGE TO This entertainment was, novv and then, fufpended for a few minutes. During theli intervals there were both wreftUng and boxing matches. The firft were performed in the fame manner as at Otaheite ; and the fecond differed very little from the method pradtifed in England. But what ftrurk us with moft furprize, was, to fee a couple of hifty wenches ftcp forth, and begin boxing, without the lead ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This tonteft, however, did not lart above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the fame applauie from the fpeiftators, which they bellow- ed upon the fiiccefsful combatants of the other fex. We expreffed fome diilike at this part of the entertainment; which, liowever, did not prevent two other females from entering tlie Hits. They feemed to be girls of fpirit, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not interpofed to part them. All theib combats were exhibited in the midlt of, at lead, three thoufand people; and were condudled with the greateft goo ; though fome of the champions, women as well as mtn, recived blows, which, doubtlefs, thev miift have felt f;>r tbrnc time after. As foon as thefe divei lions were ended, the Chief told n:e, that the heaps of provifions, on our right-hand, were a prefent to Omai ; and that thofe, on our left-hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient ; but that there would be no occafion to fet any of our people as guards over tlicm, as 1 might be alTured, that not a lingle ccKoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved; for 1 left every thing be- hind, and returned to the Ihip to dinner, carrying the Chief THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 247 Chief with mc ; and when the provifious were removed on board, in the afternoon, not a finale article was miiling. There was as much as loaded four l)oats; and I lould not but be rtruck with the munificence of Feenou; for this prefent far exceeded any 1 had ever received from any of the Sovereigns of the various Ulands I had vifited in the «777- May. ig my friend, for, before he of our corn- is ertima- ,is fatisfac- Pacific Ocean. I loft no time in con ' that I was not infenfdile of his liber ' quitted my lliip, I bellowed upon b modities, as, I gueffed, were moft v. tion. And the return I made was fo tion, that, as foon as he got on fliore, he icic mc ftill in- debted to him, by fending me a frefli prefent, confifting of two large hogs, a confiderable quantity of cloth, and fome yams. Feenou had expreffed a defire to fee the marines go through their military exercile. As I was defirous to gratify his curiofity, I ordered them all afhore, from both fliips, in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various TuefJay 20, evolutions, and fired ieveral voUies, with which the nume- rous body of fpedfators feemed well pleafed, the Chief en- tertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exa(Slnefs, far furpalling the fpecimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance, fo en- tirely different from any thing I had ever feen, that, I fear, I can give no dcfcription that will convey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men ; and one hundred and five pcrfons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an inftrument neatly made, Ihaped lomewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade; fo that they w^ere very Is IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 118 1 2.5 *i^ 1^ 12.2 i 2f B4 ■ I.I i:^ iiiiM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 < 6" ► V] /I *V>^ / .J>A\? Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 873-4S03 i48 1777- May. r i' 1 m ij A VOYAGE TO very light. With thefe inftruments they made many and various flourifhes, each of which was accompanied with a different attitude of the body* or a different movement. At firft, the performers ranged themfelves in three lines ; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his ftation in fuch a manner, that thofe who had been in the rear, came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the fame polition ; but thefe changes were made by pretty quick. tranfiti(Mis. At one time they extended themfelves in one line ; they, then, formed into a femicircle ; and, laftly, into two fquare columns. While this laft movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me ; ■with which the whole ended. The mufical inftruments confifted of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome varied notes were produced, by beating on them with two flicks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the dancers were much aflifled or dire;■ ] '^' H* >777- May. 1/ ^i. . ' A VOYAGE TO dancing, increafed fo much, that it was fcarcely poflible to diftinguifli the different movements ; though one might fup- pofe the adtors were now almoft tired, as their performance had lalted near half an hour. After a confiderable interval, another a£l, as we may call it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed them- felves in double rows fronting each other, but on oppofite fides of the circle ; and, on one fide, a man was Rationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated feveral fen- tences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied. They then fung flowly; and afterward danced and fung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they had fucceeded. Soon after they had finilhed, nine women exhibited them- felves, and fat down fronting the hut where the Chief was. A man then rofe, and ftruck. the firft of thefe women on the back, with both fifts joined. He proceeded, in the T^me manner, to the fecond and third ; but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or defign I cannot tell, in- ftead of the back, he ftruck her on the breaft. Upon this a perfon rofe inftantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head ; and he was carried off without the leaft noife or diforder. But this did not fave the other five women from fo odd a difcipline, or perhaps neceffary ceremony ; for a perfon fucceeded him, who treated them in the fame manner. Their difgrace did not end here ; for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their performance twice difapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not diflfer much from that of the firft women, except in this one circumftance, that the prefent fpt, fometimes raifed the body upon one leg, by a ibrt of double motion, and then upon the other alter- nately, If,' *" 1 ;i ' »-; ? ' I '»' [Lj... i <._i in ,' > ! il ft ( (k1 14 ^ . m' 1 . ' W^i- ^' ' ik, mr : «itl THE PACIFIC OCEAN. nately, in which attitude they kept fnapping their fingers ; and, at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brifk movements, in which the former group of female dancers had Ihewn themfelves fo expert. In a little time, a perfon entered unexpei *»> ii «54 Mil- May. !L./t . .!<, ®P' milt A 'V A VOYAGE TO i began nearly in the fame way ; but their ending, at each interval, was different : for they increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, Hiiking their heads from fhoulder to IhoiUder, with fuch force, that a fpedtator, unaccultomed to the fight, would fuppofe, thai they ran a riik of diflo- cating their necks. This was tended with a fmart clap- ping of the hands, and a kind of favage holla ! or fhriek» not unlike what is fometimes pradtifed in the comic dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple femi- circle, as the preceding dancers had done; and a perfon, who advanced at tlie head on one fide of the femicircle, began by repeating fomething in a truly mufical recitative, wliich was delivered with an air fo graceful, as might put to the blufh our moft applauded performers. He was an- fwered in the fame manner, by the perfon at the head of the oppofite party. This being repeated feveral times, the whole body, on one fide, joined in the refponfes to the whole correfponding body on the oppofite fide, as the femi- circle advanced to the front ; and they finifhed, by finging and dancing as they had begun. Thefe two laft dances were performed with fo much fpirit, and fo great exa777- May. ' (■ V ■\] ' n-ifl 256 A VOYAGE TO C H A P. VI. DefcriptioH of Lefooga.'—Us cultivated State. — Its Extent.'^ Tranjaiiions there. — A Female Oculijl. — Singular Expedients forjbaving off the Hair. — The Ships change their Station.-— ji remarkable Mount and Stone. — Defer ipt ion of Hoolaiva.-^ Account of PoulahOf King of the Friendly IJlands .—-RefpeSl- ful Manner in which he is treated by his People.'— Depar- Jure from the Hapaee IJlands. — Some Account of Kotoo.— Return of the Ships to Annamooka.—Poulaho and Feenou meet.'— Arrival at 'Tongataboo. '777- ^^URIOSITY, on both fides, being now fufficiently y_ y.' , \^ gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertain- ments I have defcribed, I began to have time to look about Wednef. 11. me. Accordingly, next day, I took a walk into the ifland of Lefooga, of which I was defirous to obtain fome know- ledge. I found it to be, in feveral refpecSls, fuperior to An- namooka. The plantations were both more numerous, and more extenfive. In many places, indeed, toward the fea, ef- pecially on the Eaft fide, the country is ftill wafte ; owing, perhaps, to the landy foil ; as it is much lower than Anna- mooka, and its furrounding ifies. But, toward the middle of the illand, the foil is better ; and the marks of confider- able population, and of improved cultivation, were very confpicuous. For we met here ^^^ith very large plantations, inclofed in fuch a manner, that the fences running parallel to U.I ■■«-^? ;^-r!JrP^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 157 to each other, form fine fpacious public roads, that would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been carried to the grcateft perfetSlion. We obferved large fiwts covered with the paper mulberry-trees ; and the plantations, in general, were well flocked with fuch roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the illand. To thefe I made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a houfe, four or five times as large as thofe of the com- mon fort, with a large area of grafs before it ; and, I take it for granted, the people refort thither on certain public occafions. Near the landing-place, we faw a mount, two or three feet high, covered with gravel ; and on it flood four or five finall huts, in which, the natives told us, the bodies of fome of their principal people had been interred. The ifland is not above feven miles long ; and, in fome ]^ac€s, not above two or three broad. The Eaft fide of it, which is expofed to the trade-wind, has a reef, running to a confiderable breadth from it, on which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile diflant ; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then partly dry, from the one ifland to the other. The fhore itfelf is either a coral rock, fix or feven feet high, or a fandy beach ; but higher than the Weft fide; which, in general, is not more than three or four feet from the level of the fea, with a fandy beach its whole length. When I returned from my excurfion into the country, and went on board to dinner, I found a large failing canoe fafl to the fliip's flern. In this canoe was Latooliboula, Vol. I. L 1 whom 1777- May. mm vl-'r! M :. i ';■,: »!■ »777« May. 25a AVOYAGETO whom I had fcen nt Tongataboo, (hiring my lart voyage ; and who was then fupiwfcd by us to be the King of that illand. He fat in the canoe, with all that gravity, by which, as I have mentioned in my Journal S be was fo remarka- bly diftinguifhcd at that time ; nor could I, by any intrea- ties, prevail upon him now to come into the (hip. Many of the illanders were prefent ; and they all called him Areekee^ which fignifies King. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Fecnou, however extenfive his au- thority over them, both here, and at Annamooka, had ap- peared to be ; which had, all along, inclined me to fufpedt, that he was not the King ; though his friend Taipa had taken pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula re- mained under the ftern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the iflands. Feenou was on board my fhip at the fame time ; but neither of thufe great men took the lead notice of the other. Thurfdayaj. Nothing material happened the next day, except that fome of the natives Hole a tarpaulin, and other things, • See Captain doit's Voyagty Vol. i. p. ao6, 207. The name of this extraordinary perlbniige is there faid to be Kohagee too Fallangou j which cannot, by the mod fkiifiil etymoldgld, be tortured into the lead mod didant rc(emblance of Latotlihouhi. It is remarl^ablc, that Captain Cook fliould not take any notice of his having called the fame perfon by ivo names fo very different. Perhaps we may account for this by fuppofuig one to be the name of the perfon, and the other the defcription of his title or rank. This fuppofitioii fecms wl-11 founded, when we confider, that Latoo, in the language of thefe people, is fomctimcs L-fcd to fignify a Great Chief; and Dr. Forder, in his Otfervatlons, p. 378, 379. and elfcwhcre, fptok- of the fovcrcign of Tongataboo, under the title of their Latoo. This very ptrfon i^ ;.u r j, by Dr. Forder, p. 370. Lutoo-Nipooroo; which furnifhes a very ftriking indance of the variations of our [Xjople in writing down the fame word as prcnounced by the natives. However, wc can eafily trace the affinity between Nlpoiroo and Liliouldy as the changes of the confonants are iiich as arc perpetually made, upon hearing a word pronounced, to which our ears have not been accufiomed. Mr. Andcribn here agrees with Captain Cook in writing Latooliboula. from \1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 259 1777' May. from off the deck. They were foim miiTccU and the thieves inirfuetl ; but a little too late. I applied, therefore, to Keenoii, who, if he was not king, was at leail veiled with the hit>,hell authority here, to exert it, in order to have my things reftored. He referred me to Earoupa ; who pirt me off, from time to time ; and, at laft, nothing was done. In the morning of the a3d, as we were going to un- rriiUy rj. moor, in order to leave the illand, Feenou, and his primc- miniiter Taipa, came along-fide in a failing canoe, and in- formed me, that they were fetting out for Vavaoo, an illand, which, they faid, lies about two days fail to the Northward of Hapaee. The obje ' A VOYAGE TO new-comers ; and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more ready to believe there might be fome foundation for the ftory of this unexpected arrival. How- ever, to gain fome farther information, I went on fhore with Omai, in quell of the man who, it was faid, had brought the firft account of this event from Annamooka. We found him at the houfe of Earoupa ; where Omai put fuch queftions to him as I thought neceffary ; and the an- fwers he gave, were fo clear and fatisfadlory, that 1 had not a doubt remaining. But, juft about this time, a Chief, of fome note, whom we well knew, arrived from Annamooka ; and declared, that no fliip was at that illand, nor had been, fince our leaving it. The propagator of the report, finding himfelf detedled in a falfehood, inftantly withdrew, and we faw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could anfwer, was not eafy to conje<£lure ; unlefs we fuppofe it to have been artfully contrived, to get us removed from the one illand to the other. In my walk, on the 25th, I happened to ftep into a houle, where a woman was drelling the eyes of a young child, who feemed blind ; the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film fpread over them. The inl'truments flie ufed were two flender wooden probes, with which Ihe had brulhed the eyes fo as to make them bleed. It leems worth mention- ing, that the natives of thefe illands fliould attempt an ope- ration of this fort ; though I entered the houfe too late, to defcribe exactly how this female oculiil employed the wretched tools llie had to work with. I was fortunate enough to fee a different operation going on in the fame houfe, of which I can give a tolerable ac- count. I found there another woman fliaving a child's head, with a fliark's tooth, lUick into the end of a piece of flick. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. dSi «777- May. ftick. I obferved, that flie firft wet the hair with a rag clipped in water, applying her inllrument to that part which fhe had previoufly foaked. The operation feemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken off as clofe as if one of our razors had been employed. Encou^ raged by what I now faw, I, foon after, tried one of thefe fingidar inftruments upon myfelf, and found it to be an excellent fuccedaneum. However, the men of thefe iflands have recourfe to another contrivance when they Ihave their beards. The operation is performed with two (hells ; one of which they place under a fmall part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they fcrape that part off. In this manner they are able to lliave very clofe. The pro- cefs is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful ; and there are men amongft them who feem to profefs this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to fee our failors go afhore to have their beards feraped off, after the fafhion of Hapaee, as it was to fee their Cliiefs come on board to be Ihaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the illand was now brought to the lliips, I refolved to change our ftation, and to wait Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in fome other convenient anchoring-place, where refrelhments might ft ill be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon of the 26th, we got under fail, and ftood to tl>e Southward Monday zG. along the reef of the illand ; having fourteen and thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bottom. However, we met with feveral detached fhoals. Some of them were difco- vered by breakers ; fome, by the \\'ater upon them appearing difcoloured ; and others, by the lead. At half jxiftr two in the afternoon, having already palfed feveral of thefe flioals, and feeing more of them before us, 1 hauled into a bay, that 1^ fi a6a •1T77. Miy. t i,'rf A VOYAGE TO that lies between the South end of Lefooga, and the North end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in feventeen fathoms water ; the bottom a coral-fand ; the point of Lefooga bear- ing South Eaft by Eaft, a mile and a half diftant. The Dif- covery did not get to an anchor till fvinfet. She had touched upon one of the flioals ; but backed off again, without re- ceiving any damage. As foon as we had anchored, I fent Mr. Bligh to found the bay where we were now ftationed ; and myfelf, accom - panied by Mr. Gore, landed on the Southern part of Le- fooga, to examine the country, and to look for frefli water. Not that we now wanted a fupply of this article, having filled all the caiks at our late ftation ; but I had been toid, that this part of the ifland could afford \is fome, preferable to any we had got at the former watering-place. This will not be the only time I fliall have occafion to remark, that thefe people do not know what good water is. We were conducted to two wells ; but the water in both of them proved to be execrable ; and the natives, our guides, aflured us that they had none better. Near the South end of the illand, and on the Weft fide, we met with an artificial mount. From the fize of fome trees that were growing upon it, and from other appear- ances, I guefled that it had been raifed in remote times. I judged it to be about forty feet high; and the diameter of its fummit meafured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount, ftood a ftone, which muft have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two and a half thick, and fourteen high ; and we were told by the natives pre- fent, that not above half its length appeared above ground. They called ii Tangata Arekee'--:' ; and faid, that it had been • Tangata^ in their language, is man ; Arckei\ king. fet ^ If Z PACIFIC OCEAN. 263 «777- May. fet up, and tiie mount raifed, by fome of their forefathers, in memory of one of their kings ; but how long flnce, they could not tell. Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on board ; and, at the fame time, Mr. Bhgh got back from founding the bay, in which he found from foiuteen to twenty fa- thoms water ; the bottom, for the moft part, fand, but not without fome coral rocks. The place where we now an- chored is much better flieltered than that which we had lately come from ; but between the two is another anchor- ing ftation, much better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low v/ater ; fo that one may walk, at that time, from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our Gentlemen, who landed in the latter illand, did not find the leaft mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it j except a fingle hut, the refidence of a man employed to catch fifh and tiutle. It is rather extraordinary, that it fliould be in this deferted ftate, communicating fo immedi- ately with Lefooga, which is fo perfectly cultivated ;, for, though the foil is quite fandy, all the trees and plants found, in a natural ftate, on the neighbouring iilands, are pro- duced here with the grcateft vigour. The Eaft fide of it has a reef like Lefooga; and the Weft fide has a bending, at the North part, where there feems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, hke that at the adjoining illand, has been raifed upon it, as high as fome of the furrounding trees. At day -break, next morning, I made the fignal to weigh; Tuefday 27. and, as I intended to attempt a paflage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongot-\boo, by the South Wert, amongft the intervening ifiar^ds, I fcnt the Mafter in a boat to I found ' il 1 4, l;.,i 777- May. 1 1 ;l I L MS If «l : ii ' .1 266 1777- May. A VOYAGE TO attention to his competitor; and, therefore, excufed him- fclf. I attended the Chief in my own boat, having firft made prefents to him, of fuch articles as, I could obferve, he valued much, and were even beyond his expedlation to receive. I was not difappointed in my view of thus fecur- ing his friendfliip ; for the moment the boat reached the beach, and, before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be con- veyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat, by fame of his own people, upon a board refembling a hand- barrow, and went and leated himfelf in a fmall houfe near the fhorc ; which feemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his fide ; and his attend- ants, who were not numerous, feated thcmfelves in a femi- circle before us, on the outfide of the houfe. Behind the Chief, or rather on one fide, fat an old woman, with a fort of fan in her hand, whofc office it was to prevent his being peftered with the flies. The fcveral articles which his people had got, by trading on board the fliips, were now difplayed before him. He looked over them all, with attention, inquired what they had given in exchange, and feemed pleafed with the bar- gains they had made. At length, he ordered every thing to be reftorcd to the rcfpcd\ive owners, except a glafs bowl, with which he was fo much pleafed, that he referved it for himfelf. The pcrfons who brought thefe things to him, firft fi^uattcd thcmfelves down before him, then they depo- fited their ievcnil purchafcs, and immediately rofe up and retired. The fame refi)edtful ceremony Avas obferved in taking them away ; and not one of them prefumed to fpeak to him ftanding. I ftaycd till feveral of his attendants left him, firft paying him obeifance, by bowing the head down to THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 '777. May. to the fole of his foot, and touching or tapping the fame, with the upper and under fide of the fingers of both hands. Others, Avho were not in the circle, came, as it fcemed, on purpofe, and paid him this mark of reipedl:, and tlien re- tired, without fpeaking a word. 1 was quite charmed with the decorum that was obferved. I had, no where, fecn the hkc, not even amongft more civihzed nations. I found the matter returned from his expedition, w hen I got on board. He informed me, that, as far as he had pro- ceeded, there was anchorage, and a paffage for the fliips ; but that, toward the South and South Eall, he fiiw a num- ber of fmail illes, flioals, and breakers. Judging, from this report, that my attempting a paflage that way would be at- tended with fome rifk, I now dropped all thoughts of it ; thinking it better to return toward Annamooka by the fame route, which we had fo lately experienced to be a fafe one. Having come to this refolution, I Ihould have failed next Wednef. 28. morning, if the wind had not been too far Southerly, and, at the fame time, very unfettled. Poidaho, the king, as I fhall now call him, came on board betimes ; and brought, as a prefent to me, one of their caps, made, or, at leafl:, covered, with red feathers. Thefe caps were much fought after by us ; for we knew they would be highly vahied at Otaheite. But, though very large prices were otfered, not one was ever brought for fale; which fhewed, that they were no lefs valuable in the eftimation of the people here ; nor was there a perfon in either fiiip, that could make him- felf the proprietor of one, except myfclf, Captain Gierke, and Omai. Thefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compofcd of the tail feathers of the Tropic bird, with the red fea- thers of the parroquets wrought u^wn them, or jointly with M m 2 them. 268 A VOYAGE TO 1777- May. ThuriUay 29. them. They are made fo as to tie upon the forehead with- out any crown, and have the form of a femicircle, whofe radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But a drawing which Mr. Webber has made of Poulaho, drefled in one of thefc bonnets, will convey the beft idea of them. The Chief flayed on board till the evening, when he left us ; but his brother, whofe name was alfo Futtafaihe, and one or two, or more, of his attendants, continued in the fliip all night. At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze, at Eafl North Eaft, and flood to the Weflward, with a view to return to Annamooka, by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by feveral failing canoes, in one of which was the king. As foon as he got on board the Refolution, he inquired for his brother, and the others who had remained with us all night. It now appeared, that they had flayed without his leave ; for he gave them, in a very few words, f uch a re- primand as brought tears from their eyes ; and yet they were men not lefs than thirty years of age. He was, however, foon reconciled to their making a longer flay ; for, on quitting us, he left his brother, and five of his at- tendants, on board. We had alio the company of a Chief, juft then arrived from Tongataboo, whofe name was Too- boueitoa. The moment he arrived, he lent his canoe av.ay, and declared, that he and five more, who came with him, would fleep on board; fo that I had now my cabin filled with vifiters. This, indeed, was fome incon- venience ; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of proviilons with them, as prefents to me ; for whicli they always had fuitable returns. About one o'clock in the afternoon, the Eaflerly wind was fuccceded by a frefh breeze at South South Eall. Oiu" courfe, now THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 269 May. now being South South Weft, or more Southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but juft fetch the North fide of Footooha by eight o'clock, where we fpent the night, making fliort boards. The next morning we plyed up to Lofanga, where, Friday jo. according to the information of our friends, there was an- chorage. It was one o'clock in the afternoon, before we got foundings, under the lee or North Weft fide, in forty fathoms water, near half a mile from the lliore ; but the bank was fteep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All thefe circumftances being againft us, I ftretched away for Kotoo, with the expedlation of finding better anchoring ground under that ifland. But fo much time had been fpent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other ; and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was fpent as the preced- ing one. At day-break, on the 31ft, I ftood for the channel which Saturday 31, is between Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the Wellward of it ; but, on drawing near, I found the wind too fcant to lead us through. I, therefore, bore up on the outfide of the reef, and ftretched to the South Weft, till near noon, when, perceiving that we made no progrefs to wind- ward, and being apprehenlive of lofing the illands, with fo many of the natives on board, I tacked and ftood back, in- tending to wait till fome more favourable opportunity. We did but juft fetch in with Footooha, between which and Kotoo we fpent the night, under reefed topfails and forefail. The wind blew frefti, and by fqualls, with rain ; and we were not without apprehenfions of danger. I kept the deck till midnight, when I left it to the Mafter, with fuch direc- tions as, I thought, would keep the lliips clear of the flioals and rll 'i I , ii : iJ B70 A VOYAGE TO • 777- M«v. >:it# t ( . I Jane. Sunday and rocks, that lay round us. But, after making a trip to the North, and landing back again to the Sovith, our fliip, by a Imall fliift of the wind, fetched fartlier to the wind- ward than was expeded. By this means Ihe was very near running full upon a low landy ille, called Pootoo Pootooa, furrounded with breakers. It hapi>ened, very fortunately, that the peojile hadjull been ordered ujx>n the deck, to put the fliip about, and the moft of them were at their Itations; it) that the neccllary movements were not only executed with judgment, but ;ilfo with alcrtnefs ; and this alone faved us from deftrudion. The Dilcovery being aflern, was out of danger. Such hazardous lituations are the unavoid- able companions of the man, who goes upon a voyage of dilcovery. This circumftance frightened our paflengers fo much, that they exprefled a ftrong dedre to get afliore. Accord- ingly, as foon as day-light returned, I hoilled out a boat, and ordeud the Ollicer who commanded her, after land- ing them at Kotoo, to found along the reef that I'pits otf from that iiland, for anchorage. For I was full as much tired as they could be, with beating about amongft the furrounding ifles and flioals, and determined to get to an anchor, fomewhere or other, if pollible. While the boat was abfent, we attempted to turn the fliips through the channel, between the fandy ille and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current againltus, we were obliged to defilt, and anchor in lifry fa- thoms water, with the fandy iile bearing Eail by North, one mile diftant. We lay here till the 4th. While in this ftation we were, feveral times, vifited by the king, by Toobovieitoa, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. •7X «777- June. Monday t. and by people from the neighbouring iflands, who came off to trade with us, though the wind blew very frefti moft of the time. The mailer was now fent to found the channels between the iflands that lie to the Eaftward ; and I landed on Kotoo, to examine it, in the forenoon of the 2d. This iiland is fcarcely acceflible by boats, on account of coral reefs that furround it. It is not more than a mile and half, or two miles, long ; and not fo broad. The North Weft end of it is low, like the illands of Hapaee ; but it rifes fuddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddilh clayey clifts, at the South Eaft end, about thirty feet high. The foil, in that quarter, is of the fame fort as in the cliffs ; but, in the other parts, it is a loofc, black mould. It produces the fame fruits and roots which we found at the other iflands ; is tolerably cultivated, but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were employed in cutting fome grafs for the cattle ; and we planted fome me- lon feeds, with which the natives feemed much pleafed, and inclofcd them with branches. On our return to the boat, we paired by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was more or lefs brackifli in each of them ; and faw one of their burying-places, which was much neater than thofe that were met with at Hapaee. On the 4th, at feven in the morning, we weighed ; and, Wednef 4. with a frelh gale at Ealt South Eaft, ftood away for Anna- mooka, where we anchored, next morning, nearly in the Thurfdayj fame ftation which we had fo lately occupied. I went on fliore foon after, and found the inhabitants very bufy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market ; and, in the courfe of the day, about two hundred of them had affembled on the beach, and traded with as I much .t '! a a7» 1777. June. t'Si Friday 6. . .1. . ' A VOYAGE TO much cac;ernefs, as chiring our 'ate vifit. Their (lock ap- peared to have been recruited much, though we had re- turned fo Uwii ; but, inltead of bread-fruit, which was the only article wc could purchafe on our fnil arrival, nothing was to be fecn now but yams, and a few plantains. This fliews the (piick i'ucceflion of the I'cafons, at leali: of the dif- ferent vegetables produced here, at the leveral times of the year, it apjwared alfo that they had been very bufy, while >ve were abfent, in cultivating; tor we now faw feveral large plantain fields, in places which we had, fo lately, fecn lying wafte. The yams were now in the greatell perfe<^ion ; and we procured a good quantity, in exchanges for pieces of iron. Thefe people, in the abfencc of Toobou, whom we left behind us at Kotoo, with Poulaho and the other Chiefs, feemed to be under little fubordination. For we could not perceive, this day, that one man alUimcd more authority than another. Before I returned on board, I vifited the feveral places where I had fown melon feeds, and had the mortification to find, that moft of them were delhoycd by a fmall ant ; but fome pine-apple j l^nts, which I had alfo left, were in a thriving ftate. About noon, next day, Fcenou arrived from Vavaoo. lie told us, that feveral canoes, laden with hogs, and other provifions, which had failed with him from that illand, had been loll, owing to the late blowing w'eather; and that every body on board them had perilhed. This melancholy tale did not feem to affe<5t any of his countrymen who heard it ; and, as to ourfelves, we were, by this time, too well ac- quainted with his charadlcr, to gi\'c much credit to fu.h u ftory. The truth, probably, was, that he had not been jI^V- to procure at Vavaoo the fupplies which he expetSle . ' : , it • he M i \ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. «73 1777' Juo«. he got any there, that he had left them at liapaee, which lay in his way back, ai\d .\here he i.»iild not but receive intelligence that Ponliho had Ih'h with us ; who, there- fore, he knew, would, u:, his fupenor, have all the merit and reward of procuring them, though he h .1 not any Ihare of the trouble. The invention (tf this lolj, at fra was, however, well imagined. For theie had lately been very blowing weather; in fo much, that the King, and rher Chiefs, who had followed us from Hajwce to >.otoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to fea when we did ; but defired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was the reafon of my anchoring there, this fecond time, and of my not proceeding diret^ly to Tongataboo. ' The following morning, Poulaho, and the other Chiefs Saturday 7. who had been wirul-bound with him, arrived. I ha )pened, at this time, to be alhore in company with Feenoi' ; who now feemed to be fenfible of the impropriety of hi^ con- dudt, in alTuming a characSter that did not belong ti » him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of Tongataboo, and the other ifles; but afte) \ .,11. ^ \ Mil,. ; Mil IN i< .V /• /,• r r // '/ In V ('. ,\ I'.W.oo II \K iioi 1- . (ll.lliv.il.Mv I'.. ml I l,.il 21. «.<';.!■. c:i3 V...V-" :^J■ ,a.; ; ^^ c:i:3 # ft In,,...,. ; All \T\ \ , M.,ll -.1. I N Mil. '\ 77,. ir.!/m,'/.,:\,:.:,..i /■: II m ) |S % 4 1 i \ i; « it •i! 1 ■ \ .¥; '.^■.1 i' \: ''■> A ■f:, '. 2^4 A VOYAGE TO '-77. lune. (I{ ill HI i .' 1' : (if ■ ' *!'■' 1 $/' ■ I'r i E' j' ;i f r liim afterward, I fliall call him old Toobou, to dlftingiiifli him from liis namcfukc, Captain Furneaux's friend. Both he and Marccwagce had a venerable appearance. The latter is a ilender man, and, from his appearance, feems to be conliderably above threefcore years of age. The former is rather corpulent, and almoft blind with a diforder of his eyes ; though not fo old. Not expediting to meet with two Chiefs, on this occafion, I hatl only brought on fliore a prefent for one. This I now found myfelf under a necellity of dividing between them ; but it happened to be pretty conliderable, and both of them fecmed fatisfied. After this, we entertained them, ibr about an hoin-, with the performance of two French horns, and a drum. But they I'eemed moll pleafed with the liring otf a pillol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took my leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled tip, and, with a few cocoa-nuts, prefented to me. Saturday 14. The ucxt morning, oltl Toobou returned my vifit on board the Ihip. Me alfo vifited Captain Clerke ; and if the prefent we made to him, the evening before, was fcanty, the deficiency was now made up. During this time, Ma- reewagce vifited our people artiore; and Mr. King flie wed to him cverv thine; we had there. Me viewed the cattle w ith great admiration ; antl the crols-cut law lixcd his at- tention for Ibmc time. Toward noon, I'oulaho returned from the ])lacc where we hail left him two days before, and brought with him his fon, a youth al)out twelve years of age. I had his company at dinner; but the Ion, though prclent, was not allowed to fit down with him. It was very convenient to liave him for my gueil. For when he was prei'ent, which was generally the cafe while we Itayed here, every other native was exeiudcd THE PACIFIC OCEAN. iSs 1777- June. excluded from the table ; and but few of them would re- main in the cabin. Whereas, if, l)y chance, it happened that neither he nor Fcenou were on board, the inferior Chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party, or to be admitted into the cabin at that time ; and then we were fo crowded, that we could not lit down to a meal with any fatisfa^Slion. The king was very loon reconciled to our manner of cookery. But Itill, I believe, he dined thus fre- quently with me, more for the lake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we fet before him to eat. 1 or he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as moll men, and was as cheerful over it. He now fixed his refidcnce at the houlc, or Mci/aee^ by our tent ; and there he entertained our people, this evening, with a dance. To the furprize of every body, the unwieldy Poulaho en- deavoured to vie with others, in that a6tive amiilemcnt. In the morning of the 15th, I received a meliage from Sunday ij. old Toobou, that he wanted to fee me afliorc. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait upon him. We found liim, like an ancient patriarch, feated under the lliade of a tree, with a large piece of the cloth, made in the illand, ipread out at full length before him ; and a number of refpedVably look- ing people fitting romul it. 1 le delired us to j)lace ourlclvcs ' by him ; and then he told Omai, that the cloth, together with a piece of red feathers, ami about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his jirefent to me. 1 thanked him for the favoin- ; and delircd he wo\ild go on board with me, as 1 had nothing on Ihore to "ive him in return. Omai now left me, being lent for by Poulaho ; and, foon after, l-'eenou came, ami accpiaintcil me that young l'"atta- faihe, Poidaho's ion, delired to fee me. I obeyed the i"uni- mons, and fountl the prince, and Omai, fitting under a large -M A \A. ■-^i? zHb June. A VOYAGE TO large canopy of the finer fort of cloth ; with a piece of the courfer fort, f})rea{l under them and before them, that was feventy-fix yards long, and feven and a half broad. On one lide was a large old boar ; and on the other fide a heap of tocoa-niits. A number of people were feated round the cloth ; and, amongll them, 1 obferved Mareewagee, and others of the firil rank. I was delired to iit down by the print e ; and then Omai informed me, that he had been in- Ihiiiifed by the king to tell me, that, as he and I \\ ere friends, he hoped that his fon might be joined in this friendfhip; antl that, as a token of my confent, I would accept of his prefent. I very readily agreed to the i)ropofal ; and, it being now dinner-time, I invited them all on board. Accordingly, the yoimg prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou, three or four inferior Chiefs, and two rcfpcdf able old ladies of the firif rank, accompanied me. Mareewagee wa^ dreired in a new piece of cloth, on the ikirts of which m ere fixed fix pretty large patches of red feathers. This drefs ieemcd to have been made, on piuixjfe, for this vifit ; for, as loon as he got on board, he put it ofi^", and i)rellnted it to me ; having, I guefs, heard that it woukl be acceptable, on ac- count of the feathers. Every one of my viliters received from me fuch prelents, as, I had reafon to believe, they were highly fatisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not one of them would fit down, or eat a bit of any thing that was ferved up. On exprefling my furprize at this, they were all fal^oOj as they laid ; wiiich word has a very com- prehcnlive meaning; but, in general, rignilies that a thing- is forbidden. Why they were laid under fuch reliiaints, at preient, was not explained. Dinner being over, and, having gratified their curiofity, b\ Ihewing to them every part of the fliip, I then conducted them allK)re. As Ki.-'i ,.• jB-fe.: THE PACIFIC OCEAN. As foon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and fome others, inrtantly ftepped out. Young Fattafaihe fol- lowing them, was called back, by Mareewagce, who now paid the heir apparent the fame obeifance, and in the fame manner, that I had fecn it paid to the king. And when old Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had fliewn him the fame marks of rcfpe<51:, he was fufFered to land. This ceremony being over, the old people Hepped from my boat, into a canoe, that was waiting to carry them to their place of abode. I was not lorry to be prefent on this occafion, as I was thus furniflied with the moil unequivocal proofs of the fu- preme dignity of Poulaho and his fon, over the other prin- cipal Chiefs. Indeed, by this time, I had acquired fome certain information about the relative lituations of tlie fe- veral great men, whofe names have been fo often men- tioned. 1 now knew, that Mareewagce and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of great property in the iiland, and feemed to l)e in high ellimation \\ ith the people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable appellation given to him, by every body, of Motooa 7'o)i>^a ; that is to fay. Father of Tonga, or of his Country. The nature of his relationfliip to the king was alfo no longer a fecret to us ; for we now undcrllood, that he was his father- in-law; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by whom ho had this fon ; fo that Mareewagce was the prince's grandfather. Poulaho's appearance having fatisficd us, that we had been under a millake, in conlldering Feenou as the fovereign of thefe illands, we had been, at firrt, much puz- zled about his real rank; but that was, l)y this time, afcer- tained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's fons ; and Too- boueitoa was another. I On 287 1777- June. V I 1 ■;■ \s 2S8 A VOYAGE TO ■ S .Mil On mv landing, I found the king, in the houfe adjoining to our tent, along with our people who rcfided on fliore. The moment I got to him, he hellowed upon me a prclent of a large hog, and a quantity of yams. Ahout the dulk of the evening, a nimiher of men came, and, having fat down in a round grgup, hegan to ling in concert with the mufic (^f hamhoo drums, which were placed in the centre ••. There were three long ones, and two lliort. With thcfe they llruck the ground endwile, as hclbre dcfcrihcd. There were two others, which lay on the ground, lule by fide, and one of them was fplit or Ihivered; on thefe a man kept heating with two fmall Iticks. They lung three longs while I llayed ; and, I was told, that, after I left them, the entertainment lallcd till ten o'clock. They burnt the leaves of the zvbnrra palm for a light; which is the only thing I ever law them make ufe of for this purpofe. While I was pafling the day in attendance on thefe great men, Mr. Anderlbn, with fome others, made an excurlion into the country, which furnhhed him with the following remarks : " To the Welhvard of the tent, the country is totally uncultivateil for near two miles, though quite co- vered with trees and buflies, in a natinal rtate, growing with the greatert vigotu'. Ecyond this is a pretty large plain, on which are fome cocoa-trees, and a few fmall plantations that appear to have been lately made ; and, fcemingly, on groimd that has never been cultivated before. Near the creek, which runs to the Welhvard of the tent, • The fame f'S THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 289 »777- June. the land is quite flat, and partly overflowed by the fea every tide. When that retires, the furface is leen to be compofed of coral rock, with holes of yellowidi mud fcattered up and down ; and toward the edges, where it is a little firmer, arc innumerable little openings, from which iflue as many fmall crabs, of two or three difterent forts, which fwarni upon the fpot, as flies upon a carcafe ; but are fo nimble, that, on being approached, they difappear in an inltant, and baffle even the natives to catch any of them. At this place is a work, of art, which lliews, that thcfe people are capable of Ibme defign, and perfeverance, when they mean to accomplifli any thing. This work begins, on one fide, as a narrow caufeway, ^\ hich, becoming gra- dually broader, rifes, with a gentle afcent, to the height of ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length feventy-four paces. Joined to this is a fort of circus, whole diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two highei' than the caufeway that joins it, with ibme trees planted in the middle. On the oppofite fide, another caufe- way of the fame fort defcends ; but this is not above forty paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with large coral ftones, with earth on the furface, which is quite overgrown with low trees and flirubs ; and, from its de- caying in feveral places, feems to be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its ufe formerly, it feems to be of none now ; and all that we could learn of it from the natives v.as, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called Etchee''' On the i6th, in the morning, after vifiting the feveral Monday 16. works now carrying on alhorc, Mr. (jorc, and 1, took a walk into the country ; in the courfe of which nothing remark- able appeared, but our having opportunities of feeing the Vol. I. P p whole % 2f 90 A VOYAGE TO %^holc procefb of making doth, which is the principal ma- niita<5lure of thefc illands, as well as of many others in this Ocean. In the narrative of my firft Voyage *, a minute defcription is given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite ; but the procefs, here, differing in fome parti- culars, it may be worth while to give the following account of it : The manufadlurers, who are females, take the flender ftalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they culti- vate for that purpofe ; and which feldom grows more than fix or feven ftet in height, and aliout four lingers in thick- nefs. From thefe they ftrip the bark, and fcrape off the outer rind with a mufcle-ihell. The bark is then rolled up to take off" the convexity which it had round the ftalk, and macerated in water for fome time (they fay, a night). After this, it is laid acrofs the trunk of a fmall tree fquared, and beaten ^^ith a fcjuare wooden inftrument, about a foot long, full of coarfe grooves on all fides; but, fometimes, with one that is plain. According to the fize of the bark, a piece is foon produced ; but the operation is often re- peated by anotlier hand, or it is folded feveral times, and beat longer, which feems rather intended to clofe than to divide its texture. When this is fufficiently effeded, it is fpread out to dry ; the ]>ieces being from four to fix, or more, feet in length, and half as broad. They are then given to aiiotlicr perfon, who joins the pieces, by fmear- ing jiart of them over with the vifcous Juice of a berry, called /ooo, which ferves as a glue. Having been thus lengthened, they are laid over a large jiiece of wood, with a kind of fiamp, made of a iibrous iubllance pretty clofely interwoven, ])laced beneath. They then take a bit of cloth> » Hawkcfwortli's Colledion of Voyages, \'ol. ii. p. 210. and -ii 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and clip it in a juice, cxpreiTcd from the bark of a tree, called kokka^ which they rub brifkly upon the piece that is making. This, at once, leaves a dull brown colour, and a dry glols upon its lurface ; the Itamp, at the fame time, making a llight impreihon, that anl'wcrs no other pur- pofe that I could fee, but to make the feveral pieces, that arc glued together, ftick a little more firmly. In this man- ner they proceed, joining and Gaining by degrees, till they ])roduce a piece of cloth, of fuch length and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border, of a foot broad, at the fides, and longer at the ends, unltained. Through- out the whole, if any parts of the original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the cafe, they glue fpare bits upon them, till they become of an ecpal thicknefs. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix the foot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe, with the juice of the kokka, in difterent quantities, according to the propofed depth of the tinge. They fay, that the black fort of cloth, which is commonly molt glazed, makes a cold drefs, but the other a warm one ; and, to obtain Itrength in both, they are always careful to join the fmall pieces lengthwife, which makes it impoflible to tear the cloth in any diredVion but one. On our return from the country, we met with Feenou, and took him, and another young Chief, on board to din- ner. When our fare was fet u^on the table, neither of them would eat a bit ; faying, that they were taboo avy. But, after inquiring how the vidtuals had been drelTed, having found that no avy (water) had been ufed in cooking a i)ig and fome yams, the> both fat down, and made a very hearty meal ; and, on being affvired that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it alio. From this we P p 2 conJevStiu'ed, 29 E «777' June. S'j'' I ^ ... j ■Si:< \^^ -9- A VOYAGE TO conjcdured, that, on Come account or another, they were, at this time, forbicUlen to ule water; or, which was more probable, they did not Ukc the water we made ufe of, it be- ing taken up out of one of their bathing-places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were faAoo avy ; but, for what realon, we never could tell with any degree of certainty. Tuefday 17. Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Marcewagce, for giving a grand Haiva^ or entertainment ; to which we were all invited. For this piirpofe a large fpace had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this Chief, near our poll, as an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from the coinitry, every one carrying a pole, about fix feet long, upon his Ihoulder ; and at each end of every pole, a yam was fufiKndcd. Thcfe yams and poles were depofited on each fide of the area, fo as to form two large heaps, deco- rated with different forts of finall fifh, and piled up to the greateft advantage. They were Mareewagee's prefent to Captain Clerkc and me ; and it was hard to fay, whether the wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of moll v\alue to \is. As for the lifli, they might ferve to jileafe the fight, but were very ofFenfnc to the fmell ; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be i)rclcntcd to us on this occafion. Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they call f7iai. Tlie mufic *■ confided, at firlt, of Icventy meii as a chorus, "\\ ho fat down ; and amidll them were placed three inllru- ments, whuh we (ailed drums, though very unlike them. * Mr. Andcrfon's dcfcription of the entertainments of this day being much fullc. than Captain Cook's, it has been adopted as on a former occafion. They K '. _ .ill, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 293 They arc large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of trees, from three to four feet long, fomc twite as thick as an ordinary fized man, and bmc I'mallcr, hollowed entirely out, but dole at both ends, and open only by a chink, about three inches broad, running almoll the whole length of the drums ; by which opening, the rell of the wood is certainly hollowed, though the operation mull be dilFicult. This in- ftrument is called najff'a ; and, with the chink turned toward them, they fit and beat rtrongly upon it, with two cylin- drical pieces of hard wood, about a foot long, and as thick as tlic V, rift ; by which means they produce a rude, though loud and powerful found. They vary the ftrcngth uiul rate of their beating, at different parts of the danc c ; and ulfo change the tones, by beating in the middle, or near the end, of their drvuTi. The firft dance confiftcd of four ranks, of twenty-four men each, holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden inftrument, above two feet long, and, in fliapc, not unlike a fmall oblong paddle. With thefe, which are called pagge^ they made a great many different motions ; fnch as pointing them toward the ground on one fide, at the fame time inclining their bodies that way, from which they v/ere fliifted to the oppolite fide in the lame manner ; then pafiing them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dextroully ; with a variety of other manoeuvres, all which were accompanied by corre- Iponding attitudes of the body. Their motions were, at firft, flow, but quickened as the drums beat fafter ; and they re- cited fentences, in a mufical tone, the whole time, which were anfwered by the chorus ; hut at the end of a fliorc fpace they all joined, and finifiied with a Ihout. After cealing about two or three minutes, they began as before^ «777' June. m-hhu 0^'l^dn wm/mm ■04 177'- |uiir. A VOYAGE TO before, ami continued, with fliort intervals, above a ([uarter of an hoin* ; when the rear rank dividing, Ihifted themfclves very llowly round each end, and, meeting in the front, formed the lirll rank. ; the whole number continuing to recite the fentences as before. The other ranks did the lame fuccellively, till that which, at firlt, was the front, became the rear ; and the evolution continued, in the fame manner, till the lall rank regained its firll fitviation. They then began a much quicker dance (though ilow at firll), and fung for about ten minutes, when the whole liody di- viiled into two parts, retreated a little, and then approach- ed, forming a fort of circular figure, which finilhed the dance ; the drums being removed, and the chorus going oft' the field at the fame time. The fecond dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather a6tors, confillcd of two ranks, the foremoft having feventeen, and the other fif- teen perfons. Feenou was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in thefe cafes. They danced and recited fentences, w ith fome very fhort in- tervals, for about half an hour, fometimes quickly, fome- times more flowly, but with fuch a degree of exadtnefs, as if all the motions were made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the clofe, the back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again re- fumed its fituation, as in the firft dance ; and when they finilhed, the drums and chorus, as before, went off^. Three drums (which, at leall, took two, and fometimes three men to carry them) were now brought in ; and fe- venty men fat down as a chorus to the third dance. This confifted of two ranks, of fixteen ])erfons each, with young Toobou at their head, w ho was richly ornamented with a fort !*■' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 295 fort of garment covered with red feathers. Thefc danced, fung, and twirled the poi^^re^ as before ; but, in general, much (juicker, and performed fo well, that they had the conlhuit ai)})laulcs of the fpe(flators. A motion that met with i)articular approbation, was one in which they held the face afide, as if afliamed, and the pagge before it. The back rank clofed lieforc the front one, and that again re- fumed its place, as in tlie two former dances ; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greateft part of the ground clear. At that inllant, two men entered very haftily, and ex- crcifed the clubs which they life in battle. They did this, by firrt twirling them in their hands, and making circular ftrokes before them with great force and qui'^knefs ; but fo fkilfuUy managed, that, though ftanding quite clofe, they never interfered. They lliiftcd their chibs from hand to hand, with great dexterity ; and, after continuing a little time, kneeled, and made different motions, tofling the clubs up in the air, which they cavight as they fell ; antl then went off" as haftily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at the crown (al- moft like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round the forehead ; but they had only very fmall pieces of white cloth tied about their waifts ; probably, that they might be cool, and free from every encumbrance or weight. A per- fon with a fpcar, drcfled like the former, then came in, and in the fame hafty manner; looking about eagerly, as if in fearch of fomcbody to throw it at. He then ran haftily to one fide of the crowd in the front, and put himfelf in a threatening attitude, as if he meant to ftrike with his fpcar at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He continued in this manner only a \ few '777- June. •lA 2lj6 A VOYAGE T O June. %■: Ih few fcconds, uhcn ho moved to the other fide, and havinj^ llood in the lame poihnc there, for the lame Ihort time, retreated from the ^roiind, as fait as when he made his ap- pearance. The dancers, who had (hvided into two parties, kept repcatiiit; lomcthin^ How ly all this while ; and now advanced, and Joined ai^ain, ending with nniverlal applaiifc. It rtioidd leem that this dance was conlidered as one of their cai)ital performances, if we miu,ht jiidvi;e from lome of the principal peoi)le l)ein;i; engai;eil in it. For one of the drums was heat hy Futtafaihe, tlie hrother of I'oulaho, another hy Fecnoii, and the third, wliich (Ud not helon.i>; to the chorus, by Mareewagec himlelf, at the entrance of his hut. The lall dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It conlilled of llxty men, who had not danced before, dilpofed in three row s, having twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made refponfes to a fingle perlon who Ipoke. They recited {cn- tences (i>erhaps verfes) alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the poi^j^e, in a very brilk mode, which were all applauded with inarccai! \\\\(\ fyfogge ! words exprefling two different degrees of i^raife. They divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other; formed again, fliifted their ranks, as in the other dances ; divided and retreated, making room for two champions, who cx- ercifed their clubs as before ; and after them two others : the dancers, all the time, reciting How ly in turn w ith the chorus ; after which they advanced, and hniflicd. Tiicle dances, if they can properly be calkd fo, larted from eleven till near three o'clock ; and though they were, doubtlels, intended, particvdarly, either in honour of us, or to fliew a fpecimen of their dexterity, vait numbers of their THE PACIFIC OCEAN. their own pc()i)lc attcndctl as ri>e»^ators. Their iiunibcrs tould not be conipiitecl cxadtly, on aaoiint of the ine(iviaHty of the i^round ; but, by retkoniii^ the inner i irele, and the number in depth, uhith was between twenty and thirty in many i>laccs, we fuppoled that there mull he near tour thoufand. At the fame time, there were round the tracHn^ place at the tent, and llrau^glin^ about, at leall as many more ; and fomc of us c:omputc(l, that, at this time, there were not lefs than ten or twelve thoufand people in our neighbomiiood ; that is, within the compafs of a quarter of a mile ; drawn together, for the mott part, by mere turiofity. It is with regret I mention, that wc could not luiderftand what was fix)ken, while we were able to fee what was a«5led, in thefe amufements. This, doid)tlefs, would have afforded us much information, as to the genius and curtoms of thefe people. It was obfervable, that, though the fpcdlators al- ways approved of the various motions, when well made, a great fliare of the plcafure they received feemed to arife from the fentimental part, or what the performers delivered hi their fpeeches. However, the mere ailing part, inde- pendently of the fentences repeated, was well worth our no- tice, both with refnc(^ tu the extenfive plan on which it was executed, and to the various motions, as well as the exadl unity, with v\ hit h they were performed. The drawings whicli Mr. Webber made of the performances at Hapaee, and \\hi(h .ire equally applicable to thofe exhibited now, will fer\ c much to illuilrate the account here given of the order in which the adlors range themfelves. But neither pencil nor pen can defcribc the numerous adlions and mo- tions, the fingularity of which was not grcnrci, than was the eafe and gracefulncfs with which they ^^ ere performed. Vol. I. gq At 297 »777- June. igS A VOYAGE TO June. $$ At night, we were entertained with the l/omaif or night (lances, on a Ipace before I'^cenou's temporary habitation. Thev lartcd about three hours ; in which time we had about twelve of thcrn performed, much after the fame manner as tholb at Hapaee. But, in two, that were performed by wo- men, a number of men came and formed a circle within thcir's. And, in another, conlilting of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions with the hands, that we had not feen before, and were highly applauded. The mufic was, alfo, once changed, in the courfe of the night ; and in one of the dances, Fcenou appeared at the head of fifty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well dreffed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and fome little pidlures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diverlions were clofed, that we had put thefe poor people, or rather that they had put themfelves, to much inconvenience. For being drawn together on this vmin- habited part of their ifland, numbers of them were obliged to lie down and lleep under the bufhes, by the fide of a tree, or of a canoe ; nay many either lay down in the open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night. The whole of this entertainment was condudled with far better order, than could have been expe(5led in fo large an affembly. Amongft fuch a multitude, there muft be a number of ill-difpofed people ; and we, hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plun- dering us, in every quarter ; and that, in the molt daring and infolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to fteal ; and yet, as the crowd was always fo great, I would not allow the fentries to fire, left the inno- cent fhould futfer for the guilty. They once, at noon day, ventured HL '^\ i^ , * 'i- 'i \ . , p i ^^■^ow Bi'l i.J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 299 «777- lune. ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the Difco- very's bows ; and they would certainly have fucceeded, if the flook had not hooked one of the chain plates in lower- ing down the fliip's fide, from which they could not difen- gage it by hand ; and tackles were things they were unac- quainted with. The only a6l of violence they were guilty of, was the breaking the flioulder bone of one of our goats, fo that flie died foon after. This lofs fell upon them- felves, as flie was one of thofe that I intended to leave upon the ifland ; but of this, the perfon who did it, was ignorant. Early in the morning of the i8th, an incident happened, wednef. 18. that ftrongly marked one of their cuftoms. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter gallery of the Refolution, and ftole from thence a pewter bafon. He was difcovered, pur- fued, and broiight along-fide the Ihip. On this occafion, three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud la- mentations over the prifoner, beating their breafts and faces in a moll violent manner, with the infide of their fifts; and all this was done without fliedding a tear. This mode of exprefling grief is what occafions the mark which almoft all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The repeated blows which they infliefore our houfe, and m*y intended prefents to them were marked out. To Poulaho, the king, I gave a young Englifli bull and cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram, and two ewes ; and to Feenou, a horfe and a mare. As my defign, to make fuch a diltribution, had been made known the day before, moil of the people in the neighbourhood were then prefent. I inftrudled Omai to tell them, that there were no fuch animals within many months fail of their illand ; that we had brought them, for their ufe, from that immenfe diltance, at a valt trouble and expence ; that, therefore, they mull be carefid not to kill any of them, till they had multiplied to a numerous race ; and, laftly, that they and their children ought to remember, that they had received them from the men of Britane. He alfo ex- plained to them their fevcral ufes, and what elfe was ne- ceflary for them to know, or rather as far as he knew ; for Omai was not very w(.Il vcned in inch things himfclf. As I intended that the above ]n\lbnts fliould remain with the other cattle, till wc were rercly 10 fail, I ilefired each of the Chiefs to feud a man or r wo to look after th777- June. 'r ;h A VOYAGE TO 1777. June. M t|: 'ml fcvH: in fuch a place. There was, alfo, a row of low palms near one of the houfes, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old bafkets. Mr. Webber's draw- ing of this fiatooka^ will fupply the defeds of my de- fcription. After dinner, or rather after we had refreflied oiirfelves with fomc provifions which we had brought with us from our Ihip, we made an excurfion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by one of the king's minillers. Our train was not great, as he would not fuffcr the rabble to follow us. He alfo obliged all thofc whom we met upon our progrefs, to fit down, till wc had pafTed ; which is a mark of refpe(5t due only to their Sovereigns. We found by far the grcatell part of the country cultivated, and planted with various forts of productions ; and moft of thefe plantations were fenced round. Some fpots, where plantations had been formerly, now pioduced nothing, ly- ing fallow ; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a ftatc of nature ; and, yet, even thefe were ufeful, in affording them timber, as they were gene- rally covered with trees. Wc met with feveral large, -n in- habited houfes, which, we were told, belonged to the ki ig. There were many pul)lic and well-beaten roads, and abun- dance of foot-paths leading to every part of the illand. The roads being good, and the country level, travelling was very eafy. It is remarkable, that when we were on the moil elevated parts, at leall a hundred feet above the level of the fea, we often met with the fame coral rock, which is found at the ihore, projcdting above the fm'face, and perforated and cut into all thofc inccpialities which are ufuully fcen in rocks that lie within the wafli of the tide. And yet thefe very fpots, with hardly any foil upon them, were h . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .)'j >777- Juiio. were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were con- the orJv part tluif is ufed at the Friendly ifla.uls, which, btiiig Ut •;- up^ is given to tl'.e fervants that attend, who, breaking it i,t piece, icrar.. the dirt otf with a fliell, or bit of Hick : ar.d then eacli 'oegms and chews his portion, which he fpits into a p>cx of plantain leaf. The perfon, who i"5 to pi' pare rhe li(pior, collects all thel'e mouthfuls, and ]r.its then\ into i large wooden dii1i or bowl, adding as much water as will make it of a pro])er ftrength. h is, then, well mi.\ed up with the hands ; and fome ioofe Ihiir, «:f which n"iat- are made, is thrown upon the i'urface, \\ ni<. h intercepts tiie fibrous part, and is wrung hard, to get as much licjuid out from it, as is poiTible. The manjier of diihibuting it need not be repeated. The quantity which is jnit into eac h cup, is commonly about a cpiarter of a pint. The immediate efl'cifl of tliis bevefage is not perceptible on thcfe jKopxC, who ufe it lb frequently ; but on fome a ours, who ventured to tr\ it, though fo naftily prepared, it had the fame power as Ipirits have, in intoxicating them ; or, rather, it produced that kind of erformed ; we were told, that it was for a Chief who had died at Vavaoo, fome time ago ; that they had pradlifed it ever fince, and Ihould continue to do fo, for a conuder- able time longer. In the evening, we had a pig, drcffed as the hog, with yams and cocoa-nuts, brought for fupper ; and Futtafaihe finding, -that we did not like the fcruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the entertainment, afked us immediately to fliare it, and give it to whom we pleafed. When fupper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to lleep in ; bui we were a good deal difturbed, by a fiiigular inftance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge themfelves ; that of being beat while they are alleep. Two women l^vt by Fvittafaihe, and performed this oixration, w hich is called too^e tooge, by beating brifkly on his body and legs, with both fills, as on a drum, till he fell afleep, and continuing it the whole night, with fr>vne fliort intervals. When once the perfon is afleepi they abate a little in the ftrength and quicknefs of the beating ; but re- T t 2 fume V-i 'cy "777. June. r %':ii': UiK- 3H 1777. June. Tuclday i, A VOYAGE TO fume it, if they obfcrvc any appearance of his awaking. hi the morning, we found that Futtafaihc's women relieved each other, and went to lleep by turns, hi any other coim- trv, it would be fuppofed, that fuch a praiftice woidd pat an end to all rell ; hut here it certainly ad\s as an opiate ; and is a llrong proof of what habit may effedt. The noife of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us awake ; for the people, who palfcd the night in the houfe, not only converfed amongll each other frequently, as in the day ; but all got vip before it was light, and made a hearty meal on filh and yams, which were brought to them by a perfon, who feemcd to know very well the appointetl time for this not^urnal refreflimcnt. Next morning we let out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the Eatl fide of the bay, to the point. The country, all along this iide, is well cultivated ; but, in general, not fo much indoi'ed as at Mooa ; and amongll many other jilantain fields that we i)afled, there was one at leart a mile long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with great vigour. \Vc found, that, in traveUing, Futta- faihe exercifed a power, though by no means wantonly, which i>()inted out the great authority of fuch principal men ; or is, perhaps, only annexed to thofe of the royal family. For he fent to one place for hfli ; to another for yams ; and fo on, at other jilaces ; and all his orders were obeyed with the greatelt rcadinefs, as if he hud been abfolutc mailer of the people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned fomething of one, who, they faid, had been fired at by fome of our peoi)le ; and, upon our wilhing to fee him, they condu777- July. mtm 1 ■?'!■'■ IB if 330 July. A VOYAGE TO aii\ country that produces them. The boo^^Oy which is a fpccies of fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the largeft fized tree of the ifland ; and on the uncultivated fpots, efpe- cially toward the fea, the inoft common buflics and fmall trees are \\\q pandanus % fcveral forts of JjibiJCHS\ the/e ; one not unlike our white pota- toes, called nunvfjoba ; the taro, or coccos of other places ; uud .inotber, n\\\\\c([jecjce. Belidts vart nuiid)ers of cocoa-niTt trees, they have three othi.r forts of palms, two of ^^ hich are very fcarce. One of them is called hecoo ; which grows almolf as high as the •:ocoa-trce, has very large leaves plaited like a fan, and cbifters or bunches of glol)ular nuts, not larger than a finall (n.w '. ball, <;rowing amonglt the branches, with a very hard kernel, v/hich is ibmetimes eat. The other is u kind of ( abbagc-trce, not dillinguifliable from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by having iti leaves more ragged. It has a cabbage ihree or four feet long ; at the top of which are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which is fcarccly two inches long, refembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an infipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, nccoo^ooUiy or •ed c'!Coa-nut, as it aflumes a reddidi call when rijic. The third fort is called ongo on^o^ and much commoner, be- ing generally found planted about their //V//0(3/'^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the catalogvie of uncultivated plants is too large to be enu- merated here. Befides the pempbis decajpermumy mallo- cocca, maba^ and fome other new genera^ defcrihed by Dr. Forller •=, there are a few more found here ; which, perhaps, the different feafons of the year, and his fliort flay, did not give him an opportunity to take notice of. Although it did not appear, during our longer ftay, that above a fourth part of the t '^., and other plants, were in flower; a cir- cumflance abl(, ately ncceflary, to enable one to dirtinguilli the various kinds. The only quadrupeds, bcfides hogs, are a few rats, and fome dogs, which are not natives of the place, but pro- duc<;d from fome left by us in I773> and by others got from Fcejee. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are domefti- cated here. Amongft the birds, are parrots, fomcwhat fmallcr than the common grey ones, of an intlifFerent green on the back and wings, the tail bluifli, and the rell of a footy or choco- late brown; parroqucts, not larger than a Iparrow, of a fine yellowifli green, with bright azure on the crown of the head, and the throat and belly red ; belldcs another fort as large as a dove, with a blue crt)wn and thighs, the throat and under part of the head crimlbn, as alfo jnirt of the belly, ^iwOi the rcil a beautiful green. There are owls about the fi/c of oiu- common ri)rt, but of a liner plumage ; the cuckoos, mentioned at Pnlmerllon's Uland ; king-lilliers, ul>out the fize of a thrulh, of a green- ifl\ blue, with a white ring about the neck; and a bird of the thrulli kind, almoit as big, of a dull green colour, \\\x\\ tv.o vtilow wattles at the bale of the bill, which is the only fmging one we obferved here; but it compenlatcs a good * Sec his 0\;r(7.7i/:( G.vuv.'i.vi /'.'(.■/, \v,7-«'/j. Lond. 17-6. (ic a 333 >777- July. \ ' 334 July. 1^'--' f:'^>^ A VOYAGE TO deal for the want of others by the ftrength and melody of its notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather. The other land birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour, with a rurty neck ; a black fort with red eyes, not hu"gcr than a lark ; large violet-coloured coots, M ith red bald crowns ; two forts o { fiy-catchers ; a very fmall fwallow ; and three forts of pigeons, one of which is /e ramier cuivre of Monf. Sonnerat- ; another, half the flze of the common fort, of a light green on the back and wings, with a red forehead ; and a third, lomcwhat lefs, of a i)urple brown, but whitilh underneath. Of water-fowl, and fuch as frequent the fea, are the ducks {q&\\ at Annamooka, though fcarce here ; blue and white herons; tropic birds ; common noddies ; white terns ; a new fpecies of a leaden colour, with a black crell ; a fm;ill bluifh curlew^ ; and a large plover, fpotted with yellow. Befides the large bats, mentioned before, there is alio the common fort. The only noxious or difgufting animals of the reptile or infccl: tribe, arc fea-fnakes, three feet long, with black and white circles alternately, often found on fhore ; fomc fcorpions, and centipedes. There are fine green iiiuinoesy a foot and a half long ; another brown and fjx^tted lizard, about a foot long ; and two other Imall forts. • Amongll the other infe(fls are fome beautifid moths; butterflies; very large fpiders ; and others ; making, in the whole, about fifty diftcrent forts. The fea abounds with filh, thoiK;h the varictv is lefs than might be expected. The molt troqucnt lorts are mul- lets ; feveral Ibrts of parr<;>t-filh ; iilver filh ; old w ives ; • Fcyagt a la NouvtIU Cuiruf, Tab. CII. fome :i'. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fome beautifully fpotted foles ; leather-jackets ; bonnetos ; and albicores; bcHr^es the eels mentioned at Palmerfton's Illand ; fome Iharl. =i '; rays ; pipe-ufli ; a fort of pike ; and fome cupous devil-mh. The many reefs and Ihoals on the North fide of the ifland, afford fhelter for an endlefs viriety of fliell-fifli; amongft which are many that are efteemed precious in Europe. Such as the true bar. ;n« / oyfter ; of which, how- ever, none could be obtained en^ii^;; a large indentated oyfter, and feveral others ; but nor e of the common fort ; panamas ; cones ; a fort of g ;;antic cockle, found alfo in the T^ait Indies ; pearl fliell oyllcs ; and many others ; fe- ver .» of which, I believe, have been hitherto unknown to the moil diligent inquirers after that branch of natural hif- tory. There are, likewife, feveral forts of fea eggs ; and many very fine rtar-fifli ; befides a confiderable variety of corals ; amongft which are two red forts ; the one moft ele- gantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no lefs variety amongft the crabs and cr-xy-fifli, which are very numerous. To which may be added, feveral forts of fponge; the fea hare, holoiburia-, and the like." 335 >777' July. ■i.\ CHAP. m '•PV 33G A VOYAGE 10 •777 July. CHAT. IX. A ^^rcmd Solemnity^ called Natciik, /;; Honour of the King's Sony /Performed. — T'he ProceUiojis and other Ceremonies^ during the Jirjl Day, defer ibed. — -The Manner of pajjing the Aight at the King's Houfe. — Con t intuition of the Solemn ityt . the next Day. — Conjetlures about the Nature of it. — Depar^ ture from Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooa. — Account of thot Ijlandi and Tranfailions there. WE were now ready to fuil ; but the wind being Eiiit- crly, we had \yf eating with Monday Tuefday THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^37 with his father; an honour he hail not, as yet, been admit- ted to. We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the kini;, with a large circle of attendants fitting before him, within an inclolure fo fmall and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any fiuh could be found m that neighbour- hood. They were intent ujxjn then nal morning occu- pation, in preparing a bowl of / > this was no li- qxior for us, we walked out to if o\u- friends, and to obferve what preparations naking for the ceremony, which was foon to begu. .\.)out ten o'clock, the people began to alicmble in a large area, which is be- fore the nuilace^ or great houfe, to which we had been con- ^k. // 4^ 338 A VOYAGE TO July. a living pigeon on a perch, clofed the rear of the pro- ceflion, in which about two hundred and fifty perfons walked. . - - - -• ./ - . Omai was defired by me, to afk the Chief, to what place the yams were to be thus carried, with fo much folemnity i but, as he feemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the proceffion, contrary to his inclination. We found that they ftopped before a moral or fiatooka * of one houfe ftanding upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they firft aflembled. Here we obfervcd them depofiting the yams, and making them up into bundles ; but for what purpofe, we could not learn. And, as our prefence feemed to give them uneafinefs, we left them, and returned to Pou- laho, who told us, we might amufe ourfelves by walking about, as nothing would be done for fome time. The fear of lofing any part of the ceremony, prevented our being long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired me to order the boat's crew not to ftir from the bor>t ; for, as every thing would, very foon, be taboo, if any of our people, or of their own, Ihould be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs ; nay mateed, that is, killed. He alfo acquainted us, that we could not be prefent at the ceremony ; but that we fhould be condudled to a place, where we might fee every thing that pafled. Obje(ftions were made to our drefs. We were told, tiiat, to qualify us to be prefent, it was neceflary that we Ihould be naked as low as the breaft, with our hats off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to thefe requifites, and began to ftrip ; other objedlions were then ftarted ; fo that the ex- clufion was given to him equally with ourfelves. ♦ This is rhefiatotka mentioned above by Mr. Anderfon, p. 321. I did THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I did not much like this reftridion ; and, therefore, Hole out, to lee what might now be going forward. I found very few people ftirring, except thofe drefled to attend the ceremony ; fome of whom had in their hands fmall poles, about four feet long, and to the under-pait of thefe were fattened two or three other flicks, not bigger than one's finger, and about fix inches in length. Thefe men were going toward the morai juft mentioned. I took the fame road, and was, feveral times, flopped by them, all crying out tadoo. However, I went forward, without much regard- ing them, till I came in fight of the tnorai, and of the people who were fitting before it. I was now urged, very ftrongly, to go back ; and, not knowing what might be the confe-^ quence of a refufal, I complied. I had obferved, that the i>eople, who carried the poles, pafied this fttoraiy or what I may, as well, call temple ; and guefling, from this circum- ftance, that fomething was tranfa6ling beyond it, which might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this purpofe ; but I was fo clofely watched by three men, that I could not put my defign in execution. In order to Ihake thefe fellows off, I returned to the tnalaee, where I had left the king, and, from thence, made an elopement a fecond time ; but I inflantly met with the fame three m.en ; fo that it feemed, as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what they faid or did, till I came within fight of the king's "^xin" c\\i7\fiatooka or moral, which I have already defcribed''*, be- fore which a great number of men were iltting, being the fame perfons whom I had jufl before feen pafs by the other moral, from which this was but a little diilant. Obferving, that I could watch the proceedings of this company from • Seep. 313. X X 2 the 339 «777' July. ii • "I > '1 p:J \ ■ 'At 340 A VOYAGE TO »777- July. m the king's plantation, I repaired thither, very much to the fatisfa<5lion of thofe who attended me. As foon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the lliips, with what I had feen ; and we took a proper ftation, to watch the refult. The num- ber of people, at xhejiatooka^ coi„tinued to increafe for fome time ; and, at length, we could fee them quit their fitting^ pofture, and march off in proceflion. They walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying, between them, one of the fmall poles above-mentioned, on their flioulders. We were told, that the fmall pieces of flicks, fattened to the poles, were yams; fo that, probably, they were meant to reprefent this root emblematically. The hindmoft man of each couple, for the moft part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if, without this additional fup- port, it were not ftrong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all feemed to bend, as they walked. This proceflion confifted of one himdred and eight pairs, and all, or moft of them, men of rank. They came clofe by the fence behind which we ftood ; fo that we had a full view of them. Having waited here, till they had all palTed, we then re- paired to Poulaho's houfe, and faw him going r"«-. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but were, iwith, conducSted to the place allotted to us, which was Dchind a fence, adjoining to the area of tht ^atooka where the yams had been depolited in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded from ocing publicly prefent at this ceremony, but allowed to peep fnam behind the cur- tain, we had a good deal of company ; and I obferved, that all the other inclofures, round the place, were filled with people. And, yet, all imaginable care feemed to be taken, that \A i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. that they fhovild fee as little as poflible ; for the fences had not only been repaired that morning, but, in many places, raifed higher than common ; fo that the talleft man could not look, over them. To remedy this defeil in our flation, we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence, with our knives ; and, by this means, we could fee, pretty diftincftly, every thing that was tranfacSling on the other fide. On our arrival at our llation, we found two or three hundred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the road that opened into the area of the f^jrai; and the num- ber continually increafed, by others joining them. At length, arrived a few men carrying fome fmall poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-niit tree ; and, upon their firft ap- pearance, an old man featcd himfelf in the road, and, with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a feri- ous tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to credl a fmall flied ; em- ploying, for that purpofe, the materials above-mentioned. When they had finiflied their work, they all fquatted down, for a moment, before it, then rofe up, and retired to the reft of the company. Soon after, came Poulaho's fon, preceded by four or rive men, and they feated themfelves a little afide from the flied, and rather behind it. After them, appeared twelve or fourteen women of the firft rank, walking fiowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of wh?te cloth extended, about two or three yards in length, Thefe marched up to the prince, fquatted down before him ;. and, having wrapped fome of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round his body, they rofe up, and retired in; the fame order, to fome diftance on his left, and there feated themfelves. Poulaho himfelf foon made his ap])earancc, preceded by four men, who walli^ed t^^o and two al^eaft, and 341 >777- July. '*'* i| M* A VOYAGE TO »777- July. 31 V. n' f and fat down on his fon's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince, then, quitting his firft por- tion, went and fat down under the ilied, with his attend- ants; and a confiderable number more placed themfelves on the grafs, before this royal canopy. The prince himfelf fat facing the people, with his back to the moral. This being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in each, rtarted up from amongft the large cix)wd, a little after each other, and running haftily to the oppofite fide of the area, fat down for a few feconds ; after which, they re- turned, in the fame manner, to their former ftations. To them fucceeded two men, each of whom held a fmall green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince, fitting down, for a few feconds, three different times, as they advanced ; and then, turning their backs, retired in the fame manner, inclining their branches to each other as they fat. In a little time, two more repeated this ceremony. ' . The grand proceffion, which I had feen march off from the other moral, now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the time they had been abfent, it mull have been pretty large. As they entered the area, they marched up to the right of the flied, and, having proftrated themfelves on the grafs, depofited their pretend- ed burthens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced rountl to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, clofing their hands, which they held before them, with the moll ferious afpedl, and feated themfelves along the front of the area. During all the time that this nume- rous band were coming in, and depoliting their poles, three men, who fat under the llied, with the prince, continued pronouncing feparate fentences, in a melancholy tone. I After ; I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. After this, a profound filence enfued, for a little time, and then a man, who fat in the front of the area, began an oration (or prayer), during which, at feveral different times, he went and broke one of the poles, which had been brought in by thofe who had walked in proceflion. When he had ended, the peoi>le, fitting before the (hed, feparated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his atten- dants paffed, and the aflembly broke up. Some of our party, fatisfied with what they had already feen, now returned to the fhips ; but I, and two or three more of the officers, remained at Mooa, to fee the conclu- lion of the folemnity, which was not to be till the next day ; being defirous of omitting no opportunity, which might afford any information about the religious or the political jnflitutions of this people. The fmall flicks or poles, which had been brought into the area, by thofe who walked in proceflion, being left lying on the ground, after the crowd had difperfed, I went and examined them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three fmall flicks were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the natives, who flood near us, that they were young yams ; infbmuch that fome of our gentlemen believed them, rather than their own eyes. As I had the demonflra- tion of my fenfes to fatisfy me, that they were not real yams, it is clear, that we ought to have underflood them, that they were only the artificial reprefentations of thefe roots. Our fupper was got ready about feven o'clock. It con- fifled of filh and yams. We might have had pork alfo ; but we did not choofe to kill a large hog, which the king had given to us for that purpofe. He fupped with us, and drank pretty freely of brandy and water ; fo that he went to bed with 343 •777' July. 344 A VOYAGE TO WediKi; 9 m with a fufRcient dofe. We pafled the night in the Hime houle with him, and levoral of his attendants. 'i About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and converfed for about an hour, and then went to ileep again. All, but Poulaho hi . lelf, rofe at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of thofc who generally attended upon the Chief, came in, and inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her; and file immediately fat down by him, and began the fame operation, which Mr. Anderfon had fecn pradtifed upon Futtafuihe, tapping or beating gently, with her clinched filKs, on his thighs. This, inftead of prolonging his lleep, as was intended, had the contrary effedl ; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie down. Omai, and I, now went to vifit the prince, who had part- ed from us early in the evening. For he did not lodge with the king ; but in apartments of his own, or, at leaft, fuch as had been allotted to him, at fome dillance from his fa- ther's houie. We found him with a circle of boys, or youths, al)out his own age, fitting before him ; and an old woman, and an old man, who fcemcd to have the care of him, fitting behind. I'hcre were others, both men and women, employed about their neceffary affairs, in differ- ent departments ; who, probably, belonged to his houfe- hold. From the prince we returned to the king. By this time lie had got up, and had a crowded circle before him, com- pofed chiefly of old men. While a large bowl of ^ava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, fmoking hot, were hrought in; the grcateil j^art of which fell to our ihare, and was very acceptable to the boat's crew : for thefc people eat very little in a morning; cfpecially the ^tiva drinkers. 1 after- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I afterward walked out, and vifitcd feveral other Chiefs ; and found, that all of them were taking their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I found him aileep in a fmall retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe again ; and then fome filh and yams, which tailed as if they had been ftewed in cocoa-nut milk, were brought to him. Of thefe he eat a large portion, and lay down once more to fleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a prefent of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the Ihip for the purpofe. There was a fufficient quantity of cloth to make him a complete ftiit ; and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud of his drefs, he firft went to fhew himfelf to his father ; and then condusfted me to his mother ; with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a refpeftable ap- pearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me a prefent of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the illand. By this time, it was paft noon, when, by appoint- ment, I repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned, this morning, from the Ihips j and we were all invited to the feaft, which was prefently ferved up, and confifted of two pigs and yams. I roufed the drowfy monarch, to partake of what he had provided for our enter- tainment. In the mean time, tw^o mullets, and fome Ihell- fifli, were brought to him, as I fuppofed- for his feparate portion. But he joined it to our fare, fal 'iown with us, and made a hearty meal. When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony- would foon begin ; and were ftricflly enjoined not to walk out. I had reiolved, however, to peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the aitors themfelves, Vol. I. Y y if 345 >777- July. r, li •f-t- 346 A VOYAGE TO 1777' July. m pi W' M .'Mift ^'9 1 ill 1% W \£M prcfentcd, one by one, on the forked fticks, as they cam6 in, to two men, who lat on the left ; and who, till now, held green branches in their hands. The firft fifli they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. When the third was prefented, a ftout looking man, who fat be- hind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and made a fnatch at it ; as alfo did the other two, at the very fame time. Thus they feemed to contend for every fifh that was prefented ; but as there were two hands againft one, befides the advantage of fituation, the man behind got nothing but pieces ; for he never quitted his hold, till the filh was torn out of his hand ; and what little remained in it, he Ihook out behind him. The others laid what they got, on the right and left alternately. At length, either by accident or defign, the man behind got pofleffion of a whole fifh, without either of the other two fo much as touching it. At this, the word mareeai, which fignifies very goody or well (idney was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It feemed, that he had performed now all that was expetfled from him ; for he made no attempt upon the few fifli that came after. Thefe fifli, as alfo the bafkets, were all delivered, by the perfons who brought them in, fit- ting ; and, in the fame order and manner, the fmall poles, which the firft proceffion carried, had been laid upon the ground. The laft proceflion being clofed, there was fome fpeak- ing or praying, by different perfons. Then, on fome fignal being given, we all l^arted up, ran feveral paces to the left, and fat down with our backs to the prince, and the few who remained with him. I was defired not to look behind me. However, neither this injundtion, nor the remem- brance of Lot's w ife, difcouraged me from facing about. I now r I'i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I now faw that the prince had turned his face to the morai. But this laft movement had brought fo many people be- tween him and me, that I could not perceive what was doing. I was afterward aflfured, that, at this very time, the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father ; which, till now, had never been permitted to him ; a piece of roafted yam being prefented to each of them for this purpofe. This was the more probable, as we had been told, before-hand, that this was to happen during the fo- lemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them, at this time, which they always do when their monarch eats. After fomc little time, we all faced about, and formed a femicircle before the prince, leaving a largo open fpace be- tween us. Prefently there appeared fome me.i com' ^ to- ward us, two and two, bearing large fticks, oi poles, upon their fhoulders, making a noife that might be iiUed fing- ing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had got clofe up to us, they made a fhew of walking very faft, without proceeding a fmgle ftep. Immediately after, three or four men ftarted up from the crowd, with large fticks in their hands, who ran toward thofe new-comers. The latter inftantly threw down the poles from their flioul- ders, and fcampered oft"; and the others attacked the poles ; and, having beat them moft unmercifully, returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is ufual here in wreftling ; and, not long after, a num- ber of ftout fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. Thefe were oppofed by a party, who came from the oppofite fide almoft at the fame inftant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired, each to their own fide. After this, 349 I777- 'If- Jul ■^-;;-^' ! 350 1777- July. 1 11 Kl n Ih M: A VOYAGE TO this, there were wreftling and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men feated themfelves before tne prince, and made fpeeches, addreffed, as I thought, en- tirely to him. ' With this the folemnity ended, and the whole alTembly broke up. I now went and examined the feveral bafkets which had been prefented ; a curiofity that I was not allowed before to indulge ; becaufe every thing was then tadoo. But the folemnity being now over, they became, fimply, what I found them to be, empty bafkets. So that, whatever they were fuppofed to contain, was emblematically reprefentcd. And fo, indeed, was every other thing which had been brought in proceffion, except the filh. We endeavoured, in vain, to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony in general, which is called Natchey but of its different parts. We feldom got any other anfwer to our inquiries, but taboo ; a word, which, I have before obferved, is applied to many other things. But, as the prince was, evidently, the principal perfon concerned in it ; and as we had been told by the king, ten days before the celebration of the Natchej that the people would bring in yams for him and his fon to eat together; and as he even defcribed fome part of the ceremony, we concluded, from what he had then faid, and from what we now faw, that an oath of allegiance, if I may fo exprefs myfelf, or folemn promife, was, on this occafion, made to the prince, as the immediate fuccelTor to the regal dignity, to fland by him, and to furnifh him with the feveral articles that were here emblematically reprefented. This feems the more probable, as all the principal people of the ifland, whom we had ever feen, affilled in the proceffions. But, be this as it may, the whole was condudled with a great deal of 3 myflerious '' .' ' f THE PACIFIC OCEAN. myfterious folemnity; and, that there was a mixture of religion in the inftitution, was evident, not only from the place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. Our drefs and deportment had never been called in queftion, upon any former occafion whatever. Now, it was expedled that we fhould be uncovered as low as the waift ; that our hair fhould be loofe, and flowing over our fhoulders ; that we fhould, like themfelves, fit crofs-legged ; and, at times, in the moft humble pofture, with down-cafl eyes, and hands locked together ; all which requifites were mofl devoutly obferved by the whole af- fembly. And, laftly, every one was excluded from the fo- lemnity, but the principal people, and thoie who affifted in the celebration. M\ thefe circumftances were to me a fufficient teflimony, that, upon this occafion, they confi- dered themfelves as adting under the immediate infpedion of a Supreme Being. The prefent Natcbe may be confidered, from the above account of it, as merely figurative. For the fmall quantity of yams, which we faw the firft day, could not be intended as a general contribution ; and, indeed, we were given to underfland, that they were a portion confecrated to the Qtooa, or Divinity. But we were informed, ti.at, m about three months, there would be performed, on the fame ac- count, a far more imiwrtant and grander foLmnity; on which occafion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other iflands, would be brought to the Chief, and confirmed more awfully, by facrificing ten human vi«5lims from amongft the inferior fort of people. A horrid folemnity indeed ! and which is a molt fignificant inftance of the influence of gloomy and ignorant fuperftition, over the minds of one of the mofl benevolent 351 »777' July. >f 1:111 ^" .^J" A VOYAGE TO 1777- July. m- I ■ :M !» I. f -) benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On inquiring into the reafous of fo barbarous a practice* they only faid, that it was a necelTary part of the Natcbe ; and that, if they omitted it, the Deity would certainly deftroy their king. Before the affembly broke up, the day was far fpent ; and as we were at fome diilance from the Ihips, and had an in- tricate navigation to go through, we were in hafle to fef out from Mooa. When I took leave of Poulaho, he prefled me much to ilay till the next day, to be prefent at a funeral ce- remony. The wife of Mareewagee, m ho was mother-in-law to the king, had lately died ; and her corpfe had, on account of the Natcbe^ been carried on board a canoe that lay in the lagoon. Poulaho told me, that, as foon as he had paid the laft offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa ; but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither. I underftood, at the lame time, that, if it had not been for the death of this woman, moft of the Chiefs would have accompanied ns to that iiland ; where, it feems, all of them have poffeffions. I would gladly have waited to fee this ceremony alfo, had not the tide been now favourable for the fhips to get through the narrows. The wind, belides, which, for feve- ral days paft, had been very boifterous, was now mode- rate and fettled ; and to have loft this opportunity, might have detained us a fortnight longer. But what was deci- five againft my waiting, we underftood that the funeral ce- remonies would laft five days, which was too long a time, as the fliips lay in fuch a fituatiou, that I could not get to fea at pleafure. I, however, alTured the king, that, if we did not faL, I Ihoidd certainly vifit him again the next day. And fo we all took leave of him, and fet out for the ftiips, where we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening. I had HE PACIFIC OCEAN. I had forgot to mention, that Omai was prefent at this fe- cond day's ceremony as well as myl'elf ; but we were not together ; nor did I know that he was there, till it was al- moft over. He afterward told me, that, as foon as the king law that I had ftolen out from the plantation, he lent Ibveral people, one after another, to defire me to come back. Probably, thefe meflengers .were not admitted to the place where I was ; for I faw nothing of them. At laft, intelli- gence was brought to the Chief, that I had adually drip- ped, in conformity to their cuftom ; and then he told Omai, that he might be prefent alfo, if he would comply with all the neceflary forms. Omai had no obj-dlion, as nothing was required of him, but to conform to the cuftom of his own country. Accordingly, he was furniflied with a proper drefs, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives. It is likely, that one reafon of our being excluded at firft, was an apprehenlion, that we would not fubmit to the re- quilltes to qualify us to aflift. While I was attending the Natche at Mooa, I ordered the horfes, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither; thinking that they would be fafer there, under the eyes of the Chiefs, than at a place that would be, in a manner, de- ferted, the moment after our departure. Befides the above- mentioned animals, we left with our friends here, a young boar, and three young fows, of the Englifh breed. They were exceedingly defirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is ra- ther fmall. Feenou alfo got from us two rabbits, a buck and a doe ; and, before we failed, we were told, that young ones had been already produced. If the cattle fucceed, of which I make n., loubt, it will be a vail acquifition to thefe Vol. I. Z z illands; .^';3 July. m 354 A VOYAGE TO '777. ulv. J -,^ iflands ; and, as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horfes cannot but be uleful. Thudday 10. On the loth, at eiglit o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and, with a fteady gale at South Eaft, turned through the channel, between the fmall illes called Makka- haa and Monooafai ; it being much wider than the channel between the lalt mentioned ifland and Pangimodoo. The flood fet ftrong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up to the lagoon^ where the flood from the Eaftward meets that from the Weft. This, together with the indraught of the lagoon^ and of the flioals before it, caufeth ftrong ripplings and whirlpools. To add to thefe dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a cable ; fo that there is no anchorage, except clofe to the rocks, where we meet with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark fand. But then, here, a fliip would be expofed to the whirlpools. This fruftrated the defign which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as foon as we were through the narrows, and of making an excurfion to fee the fimeral. I chofe rather to lofe that ce- remony, than to leave the fliips in a fituation, in which I did not think them fafe. We continued to ply to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or lofing an inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable flant, we got into the Eaftcrn tide's influence. We expedled, there, to find the ebb to run ftrong to the Eaftward in our favour ; but it proved fo inconfiderablc, that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed us, that moft of the water, whic h flows into the lagoon, comes from the North Weft, nnd retm^ns the fame way. About five in the afternoon, finding that we could not get to fea before it w as I dark, j'f ',. 1% '! t THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 355 »777' July. (lark, I came to an anchor, under the fliore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water ; and about two cables length from the reef, that runs along that fule of the illand. The Difcovery dropped anchor under our ftern ; but before the anchor took, hold, Ihe drove off the bank, and did not reco- ver it till after midnight. We remained at this ftation, till eleven o'clock, the next Friday u, day, when we weighed, and plyed to the Eaftward. But it was ten at night, before we weathered the Eaft end of the ifland, and were enabled to ftretch away for Middleburg, or Eooa (as it is called by the inhabitants), where we anchored, at eight o'clock, the next morning, in forty fathoms water, Saturday 12. over a bottom of fand, interfperfed with coral rocks ; the extremes of the ifland extending, from North, 40° Eaft, to South, 22° Weft ; the high land of Eooa, South, 45' Eaft ; and Tongataboo, from North, 70" Weft, to North, 19^ Weft ; diftant about half a mile from the fliore ; being nearly the fame place where I had my ftation in 1773, ^^^^ then named by me, Englijh Road. We had no fooner anchored, than Taoofa the Chief, and feveral other natives, vifited vis on board, and fecmed to re- joice much at our arrival. This Taoofa *• had been my Tayo, when I was here, during my laft voyage ; confequently, we were not ftrano-ers to each other. In a little time, I went afliore with him, in fcarch of frefli water ; the procuring of which, was the chief obje6l that brought me to Eooa. I had been told, at Tongataboo, that there was here a ftrcam, running from the hills into the fea; but this w^as not the cafe now. I was firft condudled to a brackifli fpring, be- tween low and high water mark, amongft rocks, in the * In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls the only Chitf he tlieii met with, at this place, Tioony. See Vol. i. p. Zz 192. 2 te cove 3S(^ A VOYAGE TO '777- July. cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I hc- lieve the water of this fpring might be good, were it pof- fible to take it up before the tide mixes with it. Finding that we did not hke this, our friends took us a little way into the illand ; where, in a deep chafm, we found very good water; which, at the expence of fome time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the fliore, by means of fpouts or troughs, that could be made with plantain leaves, and the Item of the tree. But, rather than to undertake that tedious tafk, I refolved to reil contented with the fupply the (hips had got at Tongataboo. Before I returned on board, I fet on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of the former, we could procure but few ; but, of the latter, plenty. I put afliore, at this iiland, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed of flieep ; intrufting them to the care of Taoofa, who feemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewa- gee, to whom I had given them, as before-mentioned> ilighted the i)refent. Eooa, not having, as yet, got any dogs upon it, feems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of flieep. As we lay at anchor, this ifland bore a very different afpcd from any we had lately feen, and formed a moll beautiful landfcape. It is higher than any we had pafled, fnicc leaving New Zealand (as Kao may jurtly be reckoned an immcnfe rock), and from its top, which is almoll flat, declines very gently toward the fca. As the other illes, of this duller, arc level, the eye can dilcover nothing but the trce> that cover them ; but here the land, riling gently up- ward, prefents us with an exteniivc prolpcifl, where groves of trees are only interfperfed at irregular dillances, in beautiful ' M THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 357 July. beautiful tliforder, and the reft covered with grafs. Near the fliore, again, it is quite fliaded with various trees, amongft which are the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of our ilation, was one of the moft extenfive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever feen. The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excur- Sunday 13. fion to the higheft part of the iiland, which was a little to the right of our fliips, in order to have a full view of the coimtry. About half way up, we crofled a deep valley, the bottom and fides of which, though compofed of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now about two or three hundred feet above the level of the fea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities, which ufually diverfify the furface of this fubftancc within the reach of the tide. Indeed, we found the fame coral, till we began to approach the fum- mits of the highcil hills ; and, it was remarkable, that thefe were chieliy compofed of a yellowifh, foft, fandy ftone. The foil, there, is, in general, a reddifh clay ; which, in many places, feemed to be very deep. On the moft ele- vated part of the whole iiland, we foimd a round platform, or mount of earth, fupported by a wall of coral ftones ; to bring which, to fuch a height, muft have coft much labour.. Our guides told us, that this mount had been ereiSted by order of their Chief; and that they, fometimes, met there to drink kava. They called it Etchee ; by which name, an eredlion, which we had feen at Tongataboo,, as already mentioned, was diftinguiflied. Not many paces from it, was a fpring of excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running ftream, which, we were told, found its way to the fea, when the rains Mere copious. We alio met with 1^; n -;i|,f 358 A VOYAGE TO «777- July. with water, in many little holes; and, no doubt, great plenty might be found, by digging. From the elevation, to which we had afcended, we had a full view of the whole ifland, except a part of the South point. The South Eaft fide, from which the higheft hills, we were now ujxjn, are not far diftant, rifes with very great inequalities, immediately from the fea; fo that the plains and meadows, of which there are here fome of great extent, lie all on the North Weft fide ; and, as they arc adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landfcape, in every point of view. While I was furveying this delightful profpedt, I could not help flattering myfelf with the pleafing idea, thgit fome future navigator may, from the fame ftation, behold thefe mea- dows ftocked with cattle, brought to thefe iJlancb by the fliips of England; and that the completion of this fingle benevolent purpofe, independently of all other confidera- tions, would fufficiently mark to pollerity, that our voyages had not been ulclefs to the general interefts of humanity. Befides the i)bnts common on the other neighbouring ifiands, we found, on the height, a fpecies of acrojiicum^ melajloma, and fern tree; \\\x\\ a few other ferns and plants, not common lower down. Our guides informed us, that all, or moft of the land, on this iiland, belonged to the great Chiefs of Tongataboo ; and that the inhabitants were only tenants, or valfals, to them. Indeed, this feemed to be the cafe at all the other neighbouring iiles, except Annamooka, where there were fome Chiefs, who feemed to a*5t with fome kind of inde- pendence. Omai, who was a great favourite with Fecnou, and thefe people in general, was tempted with the offer of being THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 359 >777- July. being made Chief of this illand, if he wovikl have ftaid amongft them ; and it is not clear to me, that he would not have been glad to ftay, if the fcheme had met with my approbation. I own, I did difapprove of it ; but not be- caufe I thought that Omai would do better for himfelf in his own native ille. On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, ftruck one of their own country- men with a club, which laid bare, or, as others laid, frac- tured his fkull, and then broke his thigh with the flime ; when our men intcrpofed. He had no figns of life, when carried to a neighbouring houfe; but afterward recovered a little. On my afking the reafon of fo fevere a treat- ment, we were informed, that he had been difcovercd in a fituation rather indelicate, with a woman who was taboo'd. We, however, underllood, that flie was no otherwil'e taboo'd, than by belonging to another perfon, and rather fuperior in rank to her gallant. From this circumftancc, we had an opportunity of oblerving, how thefe people treat fuch infidelities. But tbe female linner has, by far, the fmaller fliare of punifliment for her mil- demeanor ; as they told vis, that flic would only receive a flight beating. The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and fowed Monday 14. the feeds of melons, and other vegetables in the Chiers plantation. I had fome encouragement, indeed, to flatter myfelf, that my endeavours of this kind would not be fruitlefs ; for, this day, there was ferved up at my dinner, a difli of turnips, being the produce of the feeds I had left here during my laft voyage I had fixed upon the 15th for failing, till Taoofa prefled Tuefday 15. me % i.f I SOo A VOYAGE TO «777' July. Wednef. i6. me to ftay a day or two longer, to receive a prcfcnt he had jnepared for nie. This rcafoii, and the daily expe«^ation of feeing fonie of our friends from Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure. Accordingly, the next day, I received the Chief's pre- fent ; confifling of two (iiiall heaps of yams, and fome fruit, which i'eemed to be coUet^Unl by a kind of contribution, as at the other illes. On this occalion, moft of the people of the iiland hail aiTcmbletl at the place ; and, as we had experienced on fuch numerous meetings amongft their neighbours, gave us not a little troid)Ie to prevent them from pilfering whatever they could lay their hands upon. We were entertained with cudgelling, wrertling, and box- ing-matches; and in the latter, both male and female combatants exhibited. It was intended to have {hiiflicd the fliew with the bo}>uii, or night-dance ; but an accident either put a total ftop to it, or, at leall, prevented any of us from flaying afliore to fee it. One of my people, walk- ing a very little way, was lurrounded by twenty or thirty of the natives, who knocked him down, and llrippcd him of every thing he had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately feized two canoes, and a large hog; and iniirted on Taoofa's caufing the clothes to be rertored, and on the oflbnders being delivered up to me. The Chief feemed much concerned at what had happened ; and forthwith took the neceiVary Heps to fatisfy me. This affair ib alarmed the aflembled people, that molt of them fled. However, when they found that I took no other mcafures to revenge the infult, they returned. It was not long before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a fliirt and a pair of trowfers reftored. The re- mainder of the Itolen goods not coming in before night, I was THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 36 r •777- July- w ^ 1 was under a ncccfTity of leavin^^ them to go aboard ; for the fca run fo high, that it was with the grcateft difTitulty the boats could get out of the creek with c'ay-light, much Icfs in the dark. The next morning, I landed again, having provided my- Thurfday 17. felf with a prefcnt for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, there were but few people at the landing-place, and thofe few not without their fears. But on my defiring Omai to afTure them, that we meant no harm; and, in confirmation of this afliirancc, having re- ftored the canoes, and rcleafcd the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they rcfumcd their ufual gaiety ; and, prcfently, a large circle was formed, in which the Chief, and all the principal men of the illand, took their places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in ; but, as they had been torn off the man's back, by pieces, they were not worth carrying on board. Taoofa, on receiving my prefcnt, fliared it with three or four other Chiefs, keep- ing only a fmall part for himfclf. This prefent exceeded their expctflation fo greatly, that one of the Chiefs, a vene- rable old man, told me, that they did not deferve it, con- fidering how little they had given to me, and the ill treat- ment one of my jieople had met with. I remained with them till they had fmiflied their bowl of iava ; and having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's fervants, by whom I fent, as a parting mark, . of my efteem and regard for that Chief, a piece of bar iron ; being as valuable a prefent as any I could make to him. Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at South Eaft, ftood out to fea; and then Taoofa, and a Vol. I. 3 A few -4' i: T: ^» 3^» A VOYAGE TO • 777. July. I few other natives, that were in the fliip, left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found, that the cable had fuffcred confiderably by the rocks ; fo that the bottom, in this road, is not to be dei)cnded upon. Be fides this, we ex- perienced, that a prodigious fwell rolls in there from the South Welt. We had not been long under fail, before we obfervcd a failing canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours after, a fmall canoe, conducted by four men, came otf to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were, Hill, at no great dittance from the land. Thefe men told us, that the failing canoe, which we had feen arrive from Ton- gataboo, had brought orders to the people of Eooa, to furnifli us with a certain number of hogs ; and that, in two days, the king, and other Chiefs, would be with us. They, therefore, defired we would return to our former ftation. There was no reafon to doubt the truth of what thefe men told us. Two of them had adlually come from Tongataboo, in the failing canoe ; and they had no view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. How- ever, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a fufficient inducement to bring me back ; efpecially as we had, already, on board, a flock of frelh provifions, fuf- ficient, in all probability, to laft during our paffagc to Oruheite. Befides Taoofa's prefent, we had got a good quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for fmall nails. Our fupply of hogs was alfo confiderably increafed there ; though, doubtlefs, we Ihould have got ma- v more, if the Chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, wV\.>lc ;^-"- perty they moftly were. At the approach of ni^^ ixelc men, finding that we would not retuin, left us ; as alfo fome THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fome others, who h:\cl < ome off in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, and Ihi-Ulocks, to exchange them for what thcv could get; the cagt:mefs of thele people to get into their pofleflion more of our commodities, inducing them to fol- low the fhips out to fea, aiul to continue then iiUcrcomie with us to the laft moment. 363 1777. 3 A 2 CHAP. 3^4 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. X. fT m Jdvaiitaqes derived from vijiting the Friendly Iflands. — Bejl Articles for Traffic. — Refrefhnients that may be procured,— - The Number of the I /lands, and their Names. — Keppel's and Bofca'wen's I/lands belong to them. — Account oj Favaoo — of Hamoa — of Feejee. — Voyages of the Natives in their Caiioes. — Difficulty of procuring exa^ Information. — Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. — T'heir Colour. — Difeafes. — Their general CharaSler. — Manner of ivearing their Hair — of puncturing their Bodies. — Their Clothing and Ornaments. — Perfonal Clcanlinefs. «777- July. THUS we took leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their inhabitants, after a ftay of between two and three months ; cUning which time, we lived together in the molt cordial friendlhip. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great pn-penfity to thieving; bnt, too often, encovn-aged by the negligence of our own people. Hut thefe dillerences were never attended with any fatal confequences ; to prevent which, all my meafurcM were dired^ed ; and, 1 believe, few, on board our fliips, left oiu' friends here without ibnie regret. The time, employed amonglt them, was not thrown away. We ex- pended very little of our fea provilion^ ; fublilting, in ge- neral, uj)on the prcKluce of the iflands, while ^^ e Itaid ; and tarrying away with us a quantity of refrclliments fullicient to «■« t THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 365 to laft till our aiTival at another ftation, where we could depend upon a frefli fupply. I was not ibrry, befides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of thcfe good people, by leaving the ufeful animals, before-men- tioned, among them ; and, at the fame time, thofe dcfigned for Otaheite, received frefli ftrcngth in the pallures of Ton- gataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, by toviching here, were very great ; and 1 had the additional fatisfadlion to refledl:, that they were received, without retarding, one moment, the profecution of the great object of our voyage ; the fcafon, for proceeding to the North, being, as has been already obferved, loft, before I took the refolution of bearing away for thefe illands. But, befides the immediate advantages, which both the natives of the Friendly Illands, and ourfelves, received by this vifit, future navigators from Europe, if any fuch fliould ever tread our fteps, will profit by the kno%\ ledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean; and the more philofophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new fituations, and to Ipeculate on fingular, but faithful reprefentations of the perfons, the cuftoms, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, in remote and frefli difcovcred quarters of the i!;lobe, will, i)erhaps, find matter of amufemcnt, if not of inftruc- tion, in the information which I have been enabled to con- vey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. 1 fliall fufpend my narrative, of the progrefs of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what 1 had opportunities of C()llc<5t- ing on tbcfe feveral topics. We found, by our experience, that the bcft articles for traffic, at thefe iilandsy are iron tot)ls in general. Axes and hatchets; nails, from the largefi: fpike down to tenpcnny ones; «777- July. '^- a 366 1777- July. h , '< i I A VOYAGE TO ones ; rafps ; files ; and knives, are much fought after. Red cloth ; and linen, both white and coloured ; looking- glafles, and beads, are alfo in eftimation ; but, of the latter, thofe that are blue, are preferred to all others ; and white ones are thought the leaft valuable. A ftring of large blue beads would, at any time, purchafe a hog. But it mull be obferved, that fuch article as are merely ornaments, may * be highly efteemed at one time, and not fo at another. When we firit arrived at Annamooka, the people there would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou came, this great man fet the fafliion, and brought them into vogue, till they rofe in their value to what I have juft mentioned. In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, all the refrefhments may be procured that the iflands produce. Thefe are, hogs, fowls, fifh, yams, bread- fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, fugar-cane, and, in. general, every fuch fupply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of the Society Iflands. The yams of the Friendly Iflands are ex- cellent, and, when grown to perfe<5lion, keep very well at fea. But their pork, bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from defpicable, are, neverthelefs, much inferior in quality to the fame articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood. Good water, which fliips, on long voyages, fliand fo much in need of, is fcarce at thefe iflands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; but, flill, either in too inconfiderable quantities, or in fituations too inconvenient, to ferve the purixifes of navigators. However, as the iflands afford plenty of provifions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, fliips may make a tolerable fliift with fuch water as is to be got ; and if one is not over-nice, there will be no want. While we lay at anchor, under Kotoo, on our return from Haj>aec, I fome ^1'^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fome people, from Kao, informed us, that there was a ftream of water there, which, pouring down from the mountain, runs into the fea, on the South Weft fide of the ifland ; that is, on the lide that faces Toofoa, another ifland re- markable for its height, as alfo for having a confiderable volcano in it, which, as has been already mentioned, burnt violently all the time that we were in its neighbourhood. It may be vorth while for future navigators, to attend to this intelligence about the ftream of water at Kao ; efpecially as we learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coaft. The black, ftone, of which the natives of the Friendly Iflands make their hatchets, and other tools, we were in- formed, is the produdlion of Toofoa. Under the denomination of Friendly Iflands, we mvift in- clude, not only the group at Hapaee, which I vifited, but alfo all thofe iflands, that have been difcovered nearly under the fame meridian, to the North, as well as fome others that have never been feen, hitherto, by any Euro- pean navigators ; but are under the dominion of Tongata- boo, which, though not the largeft, is the capital, and feat of government. According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extenfive. Above one hundred and fifty iflands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number ; and Mr. Anderfon, with his ufual diligence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are faid to be high, or hilly, fuch as Toofoa, and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of thefc, only three were feen this voyage; Hapaee (which is confidercd by the natives as one ifland), Ton- gataboo, and Eooa : of the fize of the unexplored thirty- two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they muft be 367 1777- July. wm »'l»> 368 A VOYAGE TQ 3 ' 1 _L'j >777- July. he all larger than Annamooka; which thole, from whom we had our information, ranked amopgft the fmaller ifles. Some, or indeed feveral, of this latter denomination, are mere fpots, without inhabitants. Sixty -one of thcfc illands have their proper places and names marked upon our chart of the Friendly Illands, and upon the ikctch of the harbour of Tongataboo, to both which I refer the reader. But it muft be left to future navigators, to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the exadt fituation and fize of near a hundred more illands in this neighbourhood, which wc had not an opportunity to explore ; and whofc exirtcnce we only learnt from the tefti- mony of our friends, as above-mentioned. On their autho- rity, the following lilt of them was made ; and it may fcrve as a ground-work for farther inveftigation. Names of the Friendly IJlands, and others^ in that Neigh- bourhoody mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka^ Hapaee, and Tongataboo ••••. Komoocfeeva, Kollalona, Fclongaboonga, Kovereetoa, Fonogoocatta, Noogoofaecou, Korecmou, Failcmaia, Kowecka, Konookoonama, Modooanoogoo noo- Kooonoogoo, goo, Gccnagcena, Tongooa, Kowourogoheefo, Koooa, Kottejcea, Fonooa ecka, Kokabba, Novababoo, Golabbe, Vagaeetoo, Gowakka, Goofoo, Maf^xnna, K(5lloooa, Tabanna, Motooha, Looakabba, * Thofc iilands, which tlie natives rcprcfcntcJ as large ones, are diftinguiflied in Italics. VavaoOi THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 369 Koloa, Fafeene, Taoonga, Kobakeemotoo, Kongahoonoho, Komalla, Kouoababoo, Konnctalle, Komongoraffa, Kotoolooa, Kologobeele, Kollokolahee, Matageefaia, Mallajee, Mallalahee, Gonoogoolaiee, Toonabai, Konnevy, Konnevao, Moggodoo, LoOamoggo, Boloa, Toofagga, Loogoobahanga, Taoola, Maneeneeta, Fonooaooma, Fonooonneonne, Wegafta, Fooamotoo, Fonooalaiee, Tattahoi, Latte, Neuafo^ Feejee, Oowatay Kongaiaraboi^ Kotooboooy Komotte, Konwarra, Kolaiva, Kofoona^ Toofanaetollo, Toofanaelaa, KogoopoloOf Havaeeeeke, Tootooeeltty Manooka, Lefhainga, Pappaiaia^ Loubatta, Ohoy Takounove^ Kopaooy Kovooeea, Kongaireekec^ To.feedoowaia^ Hamoa^ Neeoofaboofabooy Fotoonay Fytooboo, Lotoojua^ Toggelao^ Talava. "777. July. Konnagillelaivoo, I have not the lead doubt, that Prince William's Hlands, difcovered, and fo named by Tafman, arc included in the foregoing lift. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the na- tives told me, that, three or four days fail from thence, to the North Weft, there was a dufter of fmall iftands, conftft- ing of upward of forty. This fituation corrcfponds very well with that ailigned, in the accounts wc have of Tafman's voyage, to his Prince William's lilands •■. * Tafman favv eighteen or twenty of thefe fmall iflands, every one of which was fiir- rouniicd with fands, Ihoals, and rocks, Ilicy arc alfo called, in (ome charts, Hccmjliik's Vol. I. W B did not deny the charge. Now, that I am again led to Ipeak of cannibals, let me afk thofe who maintain, that the want of food lirft brings men to feed on human flefli. What is it that induceth the Feejee people to keep it up, in the midtt of plenty ? This this is the very name by which the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands diftinguifli their prin- cipal men. We have, in two preceding notes, infcrted paflages from Father Cantova's account of them, where their Tumola are fpoken of; and he repeats the word at k-aft a dozen times, in the courfe of a few pages. But I cannot avoid tranfcribing, from him, tlie fol- lowing very decifive teftimony, which renders any other quotation fupcrfluous. " L'auto- " ritie du Gouvernement fe partagc entre plufieurs families nobles dont les Chefs s'ap- " pellent Tamoh. II y a outre cela, dans chaque province, un principale TamoU^ auquel " tous Ics autrcs font foumis." Ltttm Edifinnut tt Curieufa, Tom. xv. p. 312. 3 practice 1 /< ' { THE PACIFIC OCEAN. pra(flicc is detefted, very much, by thofe of Tongataboo, who cultivate the friendfhip of their favage neighbours of , Feejee, apparently out of fear; though they fometimes ven- ture to fkirmifh with them, on their own ground; and carry off red feathers, as their booty, which are in great plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, are in great eftimation amongtl our Friendly Iflandcrs. When the two illands are at peace, the intercourfe between them feems to be pretty frequent ; though they have, doubtlefs, been but lately known to each other ; or we may fuppofe, that Tongataboo, and its adjoining illands, would have been fupplied, before this, with a breed of dogs, which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo, fo late as 1773, when I firft vifited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full fhade darker, than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands in general. One of them had his left ear flit, and the lobe was fo diftended, that it almoft reached his fl:\oulder; which fingularity I had met with at other iflands of the South Sea, during my fecond voyage. It appeared to me, that the Feejee men, whom we now faw, were much refpedled here; not only, perhaps, from the power, and cruel manner of their nation's going to war, but, alfo, from their ingenuity. For they feem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that refpedl, if we might judge from feve- ral fpecimens of their fkiU in workmanfliip, which we faw ; fuch as clubs and fpears, which were carved in a very mafterly manner ; cloth beautifully chequered ; variegated mats ; earthen pots ; and fome other articles ; all which had a caft of fuperiority in the execution. I have mentioned, that Feejee lies three days fail from Tongataboo, bccaufe thefe people have no other method of meafuring 37: 17?? Julv fe 376 VOYAGE TO 1777- July. III'! ■ill ik^Hm^ mcaluriiig the dillancc from illaiul to illand, but by cxprcfl- iiig the time reriuired to make the voyage, in one of their canoes. In order to afcertain this, with Tome precilion, t)r, at lead, to form Ibme Judgment, how far thefc canoes tan fail, in a moderate gale, in any given time, I went on board one of them, when under fail, and, by leveral trials with the log, found that flic went feven knots, or miles, in an hour, doll- hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I Judge, that they will lail, on a medium, with huh bree/.es as ge- nerally blow in their i'ea, about feven or eight miles in an hoiu'. l)Ut the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. I'or when they fpcak of one day's fail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the fame day ; that is, ten or twelve hours at moft. And two days I'ail, with them, lignilies from the morning of the firll day, to the evening of the I'econd ; and fo for any other number of days, hi thefe navigations, the Tun is their guide by day, and the itars by night. When thefc are obfcured, they have recomfe to the points from whence the winds and the waves came upon the vefi'el. If, during the oblciUMtion, both the w ind and the waves fliould lliift (which, within the limits of the trade-wind, feldom happens at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently mifs their intended ix)rt, and arc never heard of more. The hiftory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wa- teeoo, leads us to infer, that thofe not heard of, are not always loft. Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with amongft thefe illands, that of Tongataboo is, by far, the beft ; not only on account of its great fecurity, but of its capacity, and of the goodnefs of its bottom. The riik that we ran, in entering it from the North, ought to be a fufli- cient I,! i. ^■4 ' .Mi ^. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 377 cient caution, to every future Commander, not to attcmj^t that palia^e again witli a Ihip of burden ; iinie the other, by whicli we left it, is fo much more eafy and lafe. To fail into it, by this Eaftern channel, lleer in for the North Eaft pi)int of the iiland, and keep along the North Ihore, with the fmall illes on your Itarboard, till you are the leni;;th of the Eall point of the entrance into the /ai^oon ; then edge over for the reef of the fmall illes ; and, on following its diredion, it will condudl you through between Makkahaa and Monooafai, or the fourth and fifth illes, which you will perceive to lie otf the Welt ix)int of the lajroon. Or you may go between the third and fourth illands, that is, between Pangimodoo and Monooafai ; but this channel is much narrower than the other. There runs a very llrong tide in both. The flood, as I have oblerved before, comes in from the North Weft, and the ebb returns the fame way ; but I fliall fpeak of the tides in another place. As foon as you are through either of thefe channels, haul in for the Ihore of Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading into the lagoon ; into which boats can go at half flood. Although Tongataboo has the beft harbour, Annamooka furnifhes the beft water ; and yet, it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the Tide of the pontl, we can get what may be called tolerable. This iiland, too, is the beft fituated for drawing refrefliments from all the others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. Befules the road in which we anchored, and the harbour within the South Weft point, there is a creek in the reef, before the Eaftern fandy cove, on the North ildc of the iiland, in which two or three ihips may lie very iecurely, Vol. I. 3 C by «777. July. ,'t 378 A VOYAGE TO 1777- July. > !''■■ '. MH ■iiiiil t i! I. <' by mooring head and Item, with their anchors or moorings fall to the rocks. I have already defcribed the Hapaee iilands ; and fliall only add to that deicription, by mentioning, that they ex- tend South Weft by South, and North Eaft by North, about nineteen miles. The North end lies in the latitude of 19° 39' South, and 33 of longitude to the Eaft of Annamooka. Between them, are a great many fmall iilands, land-banks, and breakers ; fo that the fafeft w'ay to arrive at Hapaee, is either by the courfe I held, or round by the North ; accord- ing to the fituation of the Ihip bound thither. Lefooga, oft' which we anchored, is the moft fertile ille of thofe that are called Hapaee; and, confequently, is the beft inhabited. There is anchorage along the North Weft fide of this ifland ; but it will be ncceflary to examine the ground well before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine fand, there are, neverthelels, Ibme fliarp coral rocks, that would foon deftroy the cables. They who want a more particular deicription of the Friendly Iflands, muft have recourfe to the chart that we conftruded. There, every thing is delineated with as much accuracy as circumftances would permit. Recourfe muft, alfo, be had, to the fame chart, for the better tracing the feveral ftations of the Ihips, and their route from the one illand to the other. To have fwelled my journal with a minute account of bearings, tackings, and the like, would neither have been entertaining nor inftrudlive. What has been here omitted, concerning the geography of thefe iilands, will be found in the narrative of my laft voyage *. To that narrative I muft alio refer +, for • Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 211. 213. f Ibid. p. 213. 225. fuch u^ % .J.V- :^i ■ ll ¥ ^ I. I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fuch particulars concerning the inhabitants, their manners, and arts, as I had oblerved then, and about which I law no reafon to change my judgment. At prefent, I fliall confine myfelf to fuch interefting particulars, as cither were not mentioned in that narrative, or were imperfedtly and incor- reftly reprefented there ; and to luch as may ferve to ex- plain Ibme paffiiges in the foregoing account of our tranf- a(5tions with the natives. It may, indeed, be expelled, that, after fpending between two and three months amonglt them, I (liould be enabled to clear up every difRculty, and to give a tolerably fatisfac- tory account of their curtoms, opinions, and inftitutions, both civil and religious ; efpecially as we had a perfon on board, who might be fuppofed qualiiied to a6t the part of an interpreter, by undcrftanding their language and ours. But poor Omai was very deficient. For unlcfs the objeil or thing we wanted to inquire about, was acStually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of it, from information only, without falling into a hundred miflakes ; and to fuch miilakes Omai was more liable than we were. For, having no curioflty, he never gave himfelf the trouble to make remarks for himfelf; and, when he was difpofed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to be fo limited, and, i')erhaps, lb different from ours, that his accounts were often fo confufed, as to perplex, inftcad of inftruding us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found, amongft the natives, a perfon, who united the abi- lity and the inclination to give us the information we wanted ; and, we found, that molt of them hated to be troubled with what they, ]irobably, thought idle c[uciUons. Our lltuation at Tongataboo, where we remained the long- ell, was, likcwilc, unfavourable. It was in a part of the ^(12 i:()untrv, .179 »777. July. Q M s. 38-0 »777- July. p j,r ffl«5f I \m V,, r_ ,< A VOYAGE TO country, where there were few inhabitants, except fifhers. It was ahvays holiday with our vifiters, as well as with thole we vifitcd ; io that we had hut few opportunities of obferv- ing, what was really the domeltic way of living of the na- tives. Under thcfe difad vantages, it is not furprizing, that we fliould not be able to bring away with us fatisfadlory accounts of many things ; but ibme of us endeavoured to remedy thole diladvantages, by diligent obfervation ; and I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon for a confiderable lliare of what 'jUows, in this and in the following chapter, hi other matters, I have only expreffed, nearly in his words, remarks that coincided with mine ; but what relates to the religion and language of thefe people, is entirely his own. The natives of the Friendly Illands feldom exceed the common ftature (though we have meafured fome, who were above fix feet) ; but are very ftrong, and well made ; efpecially as to their limbs. They are generally broad about the flioulders ; and though the mufcular difpofition of the men, which feems a confequence of much ad^ion, rather conveys the appearance of ftrength than of beauty, there are feveral to be feen, who are really handfome. Their features are very various ; infomuch, that it is fcarcely poflible to fix on any general likenefs, by which to charadterize them, unlefs it be a fuUnefs at the point of the nofe, which is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many ge- nuine Roman nofes, amongft: them. Their eyes and teeth are good ; but the laft neither fo remarkably white, nor io well fet as is often found amongfl: Indian nations ; though, to balance that, few of them have any uncommon thick*- ncfs about the lips, a defedl as frequent as the other per- fedlion. The wt I s f o "?■ e e S - ti u > THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The women are not fo much diftinguilhed from the men by their features as by their general form, which is, for the molt part, deftitate of that ftrong flefhy firmnefs that ap- pears in the latter. Though the features of fome are fo delicate, as not only to be a true index of their fex, but to lay claim to a confiderable fliare of beauty and expreflion, the rule is, by no means, fo general as in many other coun- tries. B\it, at the fame time, this is frequently the moft exceptionable part ; for the bodies and limbs of moft of the females are well proportioned ; and fome, abfolutely, per- fedl models of a beautiful figure. But the moft remarkable diftindlion in the women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with the fineft in Europe. The general colour is a caft deeper than the copper brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a true olive complexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great deal fairer ; which is probably the effedt of being lefs ex- pofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the principal people, feems to be the confequence of a more indolent life. It is alfo amongft the laft, that a foft clear fkin is moft frequently obferved. Amongft the bulk of the people, the fkin is, more commonly, of a dull hue, with fome degree of roughnefs, efpecially the parts that are not covered ; which, perhaps, may be occafioned by fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man and boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly white. Such have been, found amongft all black nations ; but I apprehend that their colour is rather a difeafe, than a natural phDeno- menon. There are, neverthelefs, upon the whole, fe-Av natural dcfetfts or deformities to be found amongft them ; though we 381 1777. July. ¥ r 38: A VOYAGE TO I777« July. we faw two or three with their feet bent inward ; and fome afflicted with a Ibrt of blindnefs, occafioned by a difeafe of the cornea. Neither are they exempt from fome other dif- cafes. The molt common of which is the tetter, or ring- worm, that feems to aft'edt almoll one half of them, and leaves whitifh ferpentine marks, every where, behind it. But this is of lefs coniequence than another difeale, which is very frequent, and api>ears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers with tliick. white edges, difcharging a thin, clear matter; fome of which had a very virulent appearance, particularly thofe on the face, which were Ihocking to look at. And yet we met with fome who feemed to be ciu^ed of it, and others in a fair way of be- ing cured ; but this was not effoited without the lofs of tlie nofe, or of the beft part of it. As we know for a cer- tainty -^^ (and the fadl is acknowledged by themfelvcs), that the people of thefe illands were fubjedt to this loathfomc difeafe before the Englifh firft vifitcd them, notwithftand- ing the fimilarity of fymptoms, it cannot be the eifedl of the venerear contagion ; unlefs we adopt a fuppolition, which I could wifli had fufficient foxuidation in truth, that the venereal diforder was not introduted here from Eu- rope, by our fhips in 1773. It, alTuredly, was now found to fcxift amongll them ; for we had not l)een long there, before fome of our jieople received the infecftion ; and 1 had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the cai-e I took, when I firlV vifitcd thele illands, to prevent this dreadful difeafe from being communicated to their inha- bitants, had proved ineffedlual. What is extraordinary, * See Vol. ii. p. 20. of Captain Cook's Voyage, where he gives a particular account of metting with a pcrfon afflidted with this difeafe, at Amiamooka, on his landing there in I77j. they - . ,%» |v-' j?l^- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. they do not feem to regard it much ; and as we faw few figns of its deftroying effedls, probably the climate, and the way of living of thefe people, greatly abate its virulence. There are two other difeafes frequent amongft them ; one of which is an indolent firm fwelling, which affedls the legs and arms, and increafes them to an extraordinary lize in their whole length. The other is a tumour of the fame fort, in the tefticles, which fometimes exceed the fize of the two fifts. But, in other refpe(5ls, they may be confidered as uncommonly healthy ; not a fingle perfon having been feen, during our ftay, confined to the houfe, by ficknefs of any kind. On the contrary, their ftrength and adlivity are, every way, anfwerable to their mufcular appearance ; and they exert both, in their ufual employment, and in their diverfions, in fuch a manner, that there can be no doubt of their being, as yet, little debilitated by the numerous dif- eafes that are the confequence of indolence, and an unna- tural method of life. The graceful air and firm ftep with which thefe people walk, are not tlie leaft obvious proof of their perfonal accomplifliments. They confider this as a thing fo na- tural, or fo neceffary to be acquired, that nothing ufed to excite their laughter fooner, than to fee us frequently Humbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities of the ground. Their countenances very remarkably exprefs the abun- dant mildnefs, or good-nature, which they poffefs ; and are entirely free from that favage keennefs which marks na- tions in a barbarous Itate. One would, indeed, be apt to fancy that they had been bred up under the feverelt re- ftri(Slions, to acqmre an afpedt fo fettled, and fuch a com- mand of their paffions, as well as fteadinefs in condudt. 3 ^"t 383 •777. July. V'«- 5S4 1-77- July. ):^' A VOYAGE TO But they arc, at the fame time, frank, cheerful, and gootl- humoured ; though, fometimes, in the prefence of their Chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious air as becomes lliff and awkward, and has an appearance of referve. Their peaceable difpofition is fufRciently evinced, from the friendly reception all ilrangers have met with, who have vifited them. Inftead of offering to attack them openly, or clandeftinely, as has been the cafe with moft of the inha- bitants of thefe feas, they have nevtr appeared, in the fmalleft degree, hoftile ; but, on the contrary, like the moil civilized people, have courted an intcrcourfe with their vi- fiters, by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a fort of friendfliip. They underftand barter (which they call fukkatou) fo perfedlly, that, at firft, we imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by commercial intercourfe with the neighboviring iilands ; but we were afterward affured, that they had little or no traffic, except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers, and the few other articles, mentioned before. Perhaps, no nation in the world traffic with more honefty and lefs dillrull. We could always fafely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them about, one to another ; and they put the fame confidence in us. If either party repent- ed of the bargain, the goods were re-exchanged with mu- tual confent and good-humour. Uix)n the whole, they feem poffefled of many of the moll excellent qualities that adorn the human mind ; fuch as indullry, ingenuity, per- feverance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which our fhort Hay with them might prevent our obferving. The only defe777- July. 386 i-?7. July. I r T f 1 .* f ft r 1 «4 k 1 1 4.', fc 1 Wi ^ ^'' t -5 ,1 A VOYAGE TO converting their prize to any one ufefiil purpofc. But, I believe, with iis, no perfon would forfeit his reptuation, or expofe himfelf to puniflimcnt, without knowing, before hand, how to employ the ftolen goods. Upon the whole, the pilfering difpofition of thefe illanders, though certainly difagreeable and troublefome to ftrangcrs, was the means of affording us fome information as to the quicknefs of their intelle<5ts. For their fmall thefts were committed with much dexterity ; and thofe of greater confequence with a plan or fcheme fuited to the importance of the objedls. An extraordinary inftance of the laft fort, their attempts to carry away one of the Difcovery!s anchors, at mid-day, has been already related. Their hair is, in general, ftraight, thick, and ftrong; though a few have it bufhy or frizzled. The natural co- lour, I believe, almoft without exception, is black ; but the greateft part of the men, and fome of the women, have it ftained of a brown, or purple colour; and a few of an orange call. The firft colour is produced by applying a fort of plafter of burnt coral, mixed with water; the fe- cond, by the rafpings of a reddifh wood, which is made up with water into a poultice, and laid over the hair ; and the third is, I believe, the effedl of turmeric root. When I firll vifited thefe iilands, I thought it had been an univerfal cuftom for both men and women to wear the hair fliort ; but, during our prefent longer flay, we faw a great many exceptions. Indeed, they are fo whimfical in their f: liions of wearing it, that it is hard to tell w hich is mofl in vogue. Some have it cut off from one fide of the head, w hile that on the other fide remains long ; fome have only a portion of it cut fliort, or, perhaps, fliaved ; others have it entirely cut oflf, excej^t a fingle lock, which is left 1 commonly I t li :. dr"- I |1 . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 387 commonly on one fide ; or, it is fufFerecl to ^row to its full length, without ai.^ of thefe mutilations. The women, in general, wear it fliort. The men have their beards cut Ihort ; and both men and women ftrip the hair from their arm- pits. The operation by which this is performed has been already defcribed. The men are ftained from about the middle of the belly, to about half way down the thighs, with a deep blue colour. This is done with a flat bone in- ftrument, cut full of line teeth, which, being dipped in the ftaining mixture, prepared from the juice of the dooe dooe^ is ftruck into the Ikin with a bit of flick -, and, by that means, indelible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines and figures, which, in fome, are very elegant, both from the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have only a few fmall lines or fpots, thus imprinted, on the infide of their hands. Their kings, as a mark of diftin^lion, are exempted from this cuftom, as alfo from inflidting on themfelves any of thofc bloody marks of mourning, which fliall be mentioned in another place. The men are all circumcifed, or rather fupercifed; as the operation confiits in cutting off only a fmall piece of the forefkin, at the upper part ; which, by that means, is rendered incapable, ever after, of covering the glans. This is all they aim at ; as they fay, the operation is prailifed from a notion of cleanlinefs. The drefs of both men and women is the fame; and confifts of a piece of cloth or matting (bvit moflly the former), about two yards wide, and two and a half long; at leaft, fo long as to go once and a half round the waifl, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down, like a petticoat, as low as the middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, above 3 D 2 the 1777. July. I til ' I] 388 1777. July. A VOYAGE TO the p;inlle, is plaited into fcveral folds ; fo that, when un- folded, there is cloth lufficicnt to draw up and wrap round the IhoiUders; which is very fcldom done. This, as to fonn, is the general drcfs ; but large pieces of cloth, and fine matting, arc worn only by the fuperior people. The inferior fort are fatisfied with fmall pieces ; and, very often, wear nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or the maroy which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a faih. This they pafs between the thighs, and wrap round the waift; but the ufe of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great haivasy or entertainments, they have various drefles made for the purix)fe ; but the form is always the fame; and the richeft drefles are covered, more or lefs, with red feathers. On what particular occa- fion their Chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could not learn. Both men and women fometimes fliadc their faces from the fun with little bonnets, made of various materials. As the clothing, fo are the ornaments, worn by thofe of both fexes, the fame. The mott common of thefe are necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandanus, and various fweet-fmelling flowers, which go under the general name of kabulla. Others are compofed of fmall fliells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, fliark's teeth, and other things ; all which hang loofc upon the breaft. In the fame manner, they often wear a mother-of-pearl fliclj, neatly ixjliflied, or a ring of the fame fubilance carved, on the upper part of the arm ; rings of tortoife-lhell on the fingers ; and a number of thcfc, joined together, as bracelets on the vvrifts. The lobes of the ears (though, moft frequently, only one) are perforated with Xsso holes, in which they wear cylindrical Wk '?.^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. cylindrical bits of ivory, about tbrcc incbcs long, intro- tlaced at one hole, and brought out of the other; or bits of reed of the fame fize, fdled with a yellow pigment. This feems to be a fine powder of turmeric^ with whic h the wo- men rub themfelves all over, in the fame manner as our ladies ufe their dry rouge upon the checks. Nothing appears to give them greater pleafure than per- fonal cleanlinefs ; to produce which, they frequently bathe in the ponds, which feem to ferve no other purpofe *'^ Though the water in moll of them ftinks intolerably, they prefer them to the fea ; and they are lb fenfible that fait water hurts their fkin, that, when necefTity obliges them to bathe in the fea, they commonly have fome cocoa-nut ihells, filled with frefh water, poured over them, to wafli it off. They are immoderately fond of cocoa-nut oil for the fame reafon ; a great qviantity of which they not only pour upon their head and flioulders, but rub the body all over, brilkly, "vith a fmaller quantity. And none but thofe who have feen this practice, can eafily conceive how the appearance of the Ikin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one ; and the inferior fort of people, doubtlefs, appear lefs fmooth for want of it. * So at the Caroline Iflands. " lis font accoutemes a fe baigner trois fois, Ic jour, I« matin, a midi, et fur le foir." Ltttm EdtfimUi et Curitufes, Tom. xv. p. 314. 389 1777- July. J ^ l] ' i CHAP. .V)0 A VOYAGE TO H•:1^ CHAP. XI. T.mploytitefifs of the IVometJ^ at the Friendly IJlands. — Of the Men. — Agriculture. — Conjlru&ion of their Houfes. — Their "xorking Tools. — Cordage, andjijhing Implements. — Mujical Ivjlruments. — Weapons. — Food,^ and Cookery. — Amufe- vients. — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. — Their Divinities. — Notions about the Soul, and a future State. — Their Places of IVorJhip. — Government . — Manner of paving Obeifance to the King. — Account of the Royal Family. — Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it. — Nautica'i and other Obfervations. ^1 "' IK i't J. «777- Tuly. THEIR domeftic life is of that middle kind, neither fv) laborious as to be difagreeable, nor fo vacant as to fuffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done fo much for their country, that the firft can hardly occur, and their difpofition feems to be a pretty good bar to the laft. By this happy combination of circumftances, their necefTiu^y labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their recrea- tions, in fuch a manner, that the latter are never interrupt- ed by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till fatiety makes them willi for fuch a tranf.tion. The employment of the women is of the eafy kind, and, for the moft part, fuch as may be executed in the houfe. The manufadluring their cloth, is wholly configned to their care. Having already deicribed the procefs, I fliall only add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of fine- nefs. i 1 t THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39« ncfs. The coarfcr fort, of which they make very large I)icces, does not receive the imprelUon of any pattern. Of the finer fort, they ha\ e fome that is llriped, and chequered, and of other patterns differently coloured. But how thefc colours are laid on, 1 cannot fay, as I never faw any of this fort made. The cloth, in general, will refift water, for fome time ; but that which has the l^rongell glaze will re- fill longell. The manufadlure next in confcquence, and alfo withiri the department of the women, is that of their mats, which excel every thing I have feen at any other place, both as to their texture and their beaiity. In particuhr, many of them are fo fuperior to thofe made at Otahtite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither, by way of trade. Of thefe mats, they have feven or eight different forts, for the purpofes of wearing or llceinng upon; and many are merely ornamental. The lall are chiefly made from the tough, membraneous part of the ttock of the plantain tree ; tlM)fe that they wear, from the pandamis^ cultivated for that pur- ix>fe, and never fuffcred to flioot into a trunk ; and the coarfer fort, which they fleep upon, from a plant called evarra. There re many other articles of lefs note, that employ th*. tpare time of their females ; as combs, of which they make vail nvimbers ; and little baikets made of the fame iubitance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa- nut luiik, either plain, or interwoven with fmall beads; but all, finilhcd with fuch neatnefs and taftc in the difpofi- tion of the various parts, that a Itranger cannot help ad- miring their affiduity and dexterity. The province vdlotted to the men is, as might be cxpecSled, far more laborious and extcnfive tuan that of the women. Agriculture, architedlure, boat-bviilding, fifliing, and other things «777. July. V .^9* A VOYAGE TO «777' July. I.- I things that relate to navigation, are the obje777- July. n! m 398 «777- .I»iy. |! wl (1 7 I A VOYAGE TO the lowet people eat rats. The two firft vegetahle articles, with bread-fruit, ai-e, what may be caJled, the bails of their food, at dift'erent times of the year, with filii and lliell-filh ; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, fecm only to be occalional dainties, referved for their Chiefs. The inter- vals between the feafons of thefe vegetable produ777- July. ■fe/ * Cantova fays of his iflandcrs, " lis prennent leur repos des que Ic folcil eft couche, ■ et ils fc levent avcc rauiorc," Lcnrci E777- July- . M 402 AVOYAGETO fliark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in dreams, and thnirt Ipcars into the inner part of the thigh, into their Tides below the arm-pits, and through the cheeks into the mouth. All thefe operations convey an idea of fuch ri- gorous difcij)line, as muft require either an uncommon di v^ree of affection, or the groflTell fuperltition, to exadt. I will not fay, that the lalt has no (hare in it ; for, fome- times, it is fo univerful, that many could not have any knowledge of the perfon for whom the concern is ex- prelFcd. Thus we faw the people of Tongataboo mourn- ing the death of a Chief at Vavaoo; and other fimilar inllunces occurred during our ftay. It fliould be obferved, however, that the more painful operations are only prac- tifed on account of the death of thofe moft nearly con- ne(fted with the mourners. When a perfon dies, he is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much after our manner. The Chiefs feem to have the Jiatookas appropriated to them as their burial-places ; but the com- mon people are interred in no particular fix)t*. What part of the mourning ceremony follows, immediately after, is uncertain ; but, that there is fomething befides the ge- neral one, which is continued for a confiderable length of time, we could infer, from being informed, that the funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to be attended with ceremonies that were to laft five days ; and in which all the principal people were to commemo- rate her. • Cantova's account of the pradlice of the Caroline Iflands is as follows : " Lorfqu'il " mcurt quclque perfonne d'un rang diftingue, ou qui leur eft chere par d'autrcs endroits, " fes obfcques fe font avcc pompc. II y en a qui renferment le corps dii dcfundl dans " un petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils gardent au-dedans de leur maifons. D'autres Ics " enterrent loin dc leurs habiutions." Lettrn EdifiarUti d Ciirieufrs, Tom. xv. p. 308, 309. Their THE PACIFIC OCEaN. 403 Their lon^ and general mourning, proves that they con- fidcr death as a very great evil. And this is confirmed by % very odd cuftom which they pra(5life to avert it. When 1 firft vifited thefe illands, during my laft voyage, I obfcrved that m?ny of the inhabitants had one or both of their little fingers cut off; and we covdd not then receive any fatisfac- tory account of the reafon of this mutilation *. But we now learned, that this operation is performed when they labour under fome grie\ ous difeafe, and think themfelves in danger of dying. They fuppofe, that the Deity will ac- cept of the little finger, as a fort of facrifice efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut it off with one of their ftone hatchets. There was fcarcely one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated, in one or both hands; which has a difagreeable etfe are deftroyed by lightning ; and that they them- felves are afflidled with ficknefs and death, as well as their hogs and other animals. When this anger abates, they fuppofe that every thing is rcltorcd to its natural order ; and it fliould feem, that they have a great reliance on the efficacy of their endeavours to appeafu their offended di- vinity. They alfo admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to Kallafooton^qa. Amongft them, they men- tion Toofooa-boolootooy God of the clouds and fog ; Tir/A?- teboo^ and fome others, refiding in the heavens. The firll in rank and power, who has the government of the fea, and its produvflions, is called Futtafaihe, or, as it was fome- times pronounced, Footafooa ; who, they fay, is a male, and has for his wife Fykava kajeea : and here, as in hea- ven, there are feveral inferior potentates, fuch as Fabaa fonooa, Tareenva, Matt aba, Evaroo, and others. The fame religious fyftem, however, does not extend all over the duller of the Friendly Ifles ; for the fupreme God of Hapaeey for inftance, is called Alo Alo ; and other ifles have two or three, of different names. But their notions of the power, and other attributes of thefe beings, are fo very abfurd, that they fuppofe they have no farther concern with them after death. They have, however, very proper fentimcnts about the immateriality and the immortality of the foul. They call it life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an Otooa ; that is, a divinity, or invifible being. They fay, that immediately uj)on death, the fouls of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of their Chiefs leparate from their bodies, and go to a place called Booiootoo ; the Chief, or god, of which, is Goolebo. This Goolebo feems to be a perfonification of death ; for they ul'ed to fay to iis, " You, and the men of F'ccjce (by this " jundlion meaning to pay a compliment, cxpreflive of *' their confelfion of our fuperiority over themfclves), arc " alfo fubjedt to the power and dominion of Goolebo^ His country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their mythology, was never feen by any perfon ; and yet, it feems, they know that it lies to the Weftward of 1< cejee ; and that they who are once tranl\x ted thither, li/e for ever; or, to ufe their own expreflion, are not iubjedl to death again ; but feall upon all the favourite 'roduils of their own country, with which this c /erlaft ' .g abod^ is fuppofed to abound. As to the fouls of the lower f< ••■ of people, they undergo a fort of tranfmigration ; or, \. ihey fay, are eat by a bird called loata^ which wr ". s upon their graves for that purpofe. I think I may venture to affert, that they do not worfhip any thing that is the work of their own hands, or any vi- fible part of the creation. They do not make offerings of hogs, tlogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unlefs it be emblem- atically ; for their mora'ts were perfedlly free from every thing of the kind. But that they offer real human facri- fices, is, with me, beyond a doubt. Their morats, oxjiatookas (for they are called by both names, but moftly by the latter), are, as at Otaheite, and many other parts of the world, burying-grounds, and v'-'^s of worfliip; though fome of them feemed to be only appropriated to the firrt purpofe ; but thefe were fmall, and, in every other refpe»5t, inferior to the others. Of the nature of their government, we know no more than the JIT 4o6 A VOYAGE TO 1777" J«ly. \i ' 5..' , ' m- r 2 ' f. the general outline. A fubordination is eftablilhed among them, that refembles the feudal fyftem of our progenitors in Europe. But of its fubdivifions, of the conftituent parts, and in what manner they are connedled, fo as to form a body politic, I confefs myfelf totally ignorant. Some of them told us, that the power of the king is unlimited, and that the life and property of the fubjedi is at his difpofal. But the few circumftances that fell under oiu* obfervation, rather contradiiled than confirmed the idea of a defpotic government. Mareewagee, old T(K)bou, and Feenou, actled each like petty fovereigns, and frequently thwarted the mea- fures of the king ; of which he often complained. Neither was his court more fplendid than thofe of the two firil, who are the moll powerful Chiefs in the iflands ; and, next to them, Feenou, Mareewagee's fon, teemed to ftand higheft in authority. But, however independent on the defpotic power of the king the great men may be, we faw inllances enough to prove, that the lower order of people have no property, nor fafety for their perfons, but at the will of the Chiefs to whom they refpedtively belong. Tongataboo is divided into many diftridls; of above thirty of which we learned the names. Each of thefe has its par- ticular Chief, who decides differences, and diftributes jurtice within his own diftri<5t. But we could not form any latis- fadtory judgment about the extent of their power in gene- ral, or their mode of proiK)rtioning punifliments to crimes. Moll of thefe Chiefs have pofleUions in other illands, from whence they draw fupplies. At leall, we know this is lb with refpedl to the king, who, at certai' ellabliflied times, receives the produ»fl of his diltant domains at Tongataboo; which is not only the principal place of his refulence, but, fcemingly, of all the people of confcqucnce amongft thefe 3 illcs. B THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 407 ifles. Its inhabitants, in common converfation, call it the Land of Chiefs ; while the fubordinate ifles are diftinguifli- ed by the appellation of Lands of Servants. Thcfe Chiefs are, by the people, ftyled not only Lords of the Earth, but of the Sun and Sky ; and the king's family alTume the name of Futtafaihe, from the God fo called, who is probably their tutelary patron, and perhaps their com- mon anceltor. The fovereign's peculiar earthly title is, however, limply T'ooee T'onga. There is a decorum obferved in the prefence of their principal men, and particularly of their king, that is truly admirable. Whenever he fits down, whether it be in an houle, or without, all the attendants feat themfelves, at the fame tiir 2, in a femicircle before him; leaving always a convenient fpace between him and them, into which no one attempts to come, unlefs he has fome panicular bufi- nefs. Neither is any o:ie allowed to pafs, or fit, behind him, nor even near him, without his order or permifllon ; fo that our having been indulged with this privilege, was a figni- ficant proof of the great refpedl that was paid us. When any one wants to fpeak with the king, he advances and fits down before him ; delivers what he has to fay in a few words; and, having received his anfwer, retires again to the circle. But if the king fpeaks to any one, that perfon anfwers from his feat, unlefs he is to receive ibme order ; in which cafe he gets up from his place,, and fits down before the Chief with his legs acrofs ; which is a pofture to which they are fo much accufl:omed, that any other mode of fit- ting is difagreeable to them *. To fpeak to the king fiand- i;ig, woidd be accounted here as a linking mark of rudenefs, * This is peculiar to the men ; the women always fitting with both legs thrown a little on one fide. We owe this remark to Captain King. as >777- July. 4o3 A VOYAGE TO July. ii f ^J I as it woiild be, with us, for one to fit down and put on his hat, when he addrefles himfelf to his fuperior, and that fuperior on his feet, ahd uncovered. It does not, indeed, appear, that any of the mod civil- ized nations, have ever exceeded this people, in the great order obferved, on all occafions ; in ready compliance with the commands of their Chiefs ; and in the harmony that fubfifts throughout all ranks, and unites them, as if they were all one man, informed with, and dircdted by, the fame principle. Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, when- ever it is requifite that their Chiefs fliould harangiie any body of them colledlcd together, which is frequently done. The moft profound filence and attention is obferved during the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is prac- tifed amongft us, on the rnoil interefting and ferious deli- berations of our moft reipedlable afTemblies. And, what- ever might have been the fubjedt of the fpcech delivered, we never faw an inftance, when any individual prefent, ihewed ligns of his being difpleafed, or that indicated the leaft inclination to difpute the declared will of a pera who Viad a right to command. Nay, fuch is the force oi thefe verbal laws, as I may call them, that I have feen one of their Chiefs exprefs his being aftoniflied, at a perf jn's bav- in a6ted contrary to fuch orders ; though it appeared, that the poor man could not poilibly have been informed, in time, to have obferved them •• . Though fomc of the more potent CViiefs my vie with the king in ix)int of adtual polTellions, they 1^x11 very fliort in rank, and in certain , larks of ref])eil:, which the collecftive % ;.' \ * Caiitova gives us the fame account of the profound fubniiflion of the Caroline Ifland- ers, to the orders of the Tamok. " lis re^oivent fes ordres avec Ic plus profond refpeft. " Ses parolci font autant d'oraclcs, qu'on revere." Lettres Edifianlcs (t Qirieufet, Tom. xv. p. 312. body ^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 409 body have agreed to pay the monarch. It is a particular privilege annexed to his ibvereignty, not to be pun(5lured, nor circumciled, as all his fubjedts are. Whenever he walks out, every one whom he meets muft fit down till he has paired. No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the contrary, all muft come under his feet ; for there cannot be a greater outward mark of fubmiffion, than that which is paid to the fovereign, and other great people of thele iflands, by their inferiors. The method is this ; the peribn who is to pay obeifance, fquats down before the Chief, and lx)ws the head to the fole of his foot ; which, when he fits, is fo placed, that it can be eafily come at ; and, having tapped, or touched it with the under and upper fide of the fingers of both hands, he rifes up, and retires. It fhould feem, that the king cannot refufe any one who choofes to pay him this homage, which is called nioe moea ; for the common people would freqviently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to ftop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had performed the ceremony. This, to a heavy unwieldy man, like Poulaho, muft be attended with fome trouble and pain ; and I have, fometimes, feen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the way, or to reach a place where he might conveniently fit down. The hands, after this appli- cation of them to the Chief's feet, are, in fome cafes, ren- dered ufelefs for a time; for, until they be walhed, they muft not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a country where water is fo fcarce, would feem to be attend- ed with fome inconvenience ; but they are never at a lofs for a fuccedaneum ; and a piece of any juicy plant, which they can eafily procure immediately, being rubbed upon them, this ferves for the purpoie of purification, as well as Vol. I. 3 G walhing July. 410 A VOYAGE TO 177;- July. •'n U I \U- wafliing them with water. When the hands arc in tl\is ft ate, they call it t^l^oo rema. T'ciboo, in general, fignifies forbid- den ; and rema is their word for hand. When the taboo is incurred, by paying obeifancc to a great perfonage, it is thus eafdy waflied off. But, in fome other cafes, it muft neceffarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently feen w^omen, who have been taboo rema^ fed by others. At the expiration of the time, the interdicted perfon waflies herfelf in one of their baths, which are dirty holes, for the molt part, of brackilh water. She then waits upon the king, and, after making her obeifance in the ulual way, lays hold of his foot and applies it to her brealt, fhoulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces her on each flioulder ; after which flie retires, purified from her uncleannefs. I do not knov/ that it is always neceflary to come to tli^ king for this purpofe ; though Omai aflured me it was. If this be io^ it may be one reafon why he is, for the molt part, travelling from illand to ifland. I faw this ceremony performed, by him, two or three times ; and once by Feenou, to one of his own women ; but as Omai was not then with me, I could not alk the occafion. Taboo, as I have before obferved, is a word of an extenfive fignification. Human facrifices are called tangata taboa ; and when any thing is forbidden to be cat, or made ufe of, they fay, that it is taboo. They tell vis, that, if the king fliould happen to go into a houfe belonging to a fvd)je(St, that houfe wovild be taboo, and could never more be inhabited by the owner ; lb that, wherever he travels, there are particu- lar houfes for his reception. Old Ttx)bou, at this time, prefided over the taboo ; that is, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and his deputies infpeited all the pro- duce of the ifland ; taking care that every man fliould cul- I tivatc THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 41 1 f. tivate and plant his quota ; and ordering what Ihould be cat, and what not. By this wile regulation, they efFedlually guard againft a famine ; a fufficient quantity of ground is employed in railing provilions ; and every article, thus raifed, is fecured from unneceflary wafte. Ey another prudent regulation, in their government, they have an officer over the police ; or Ibmething like it. This department, when we were amongft them, was admi- niftered by Feenou ; whofe bulinels, we were told, it was, to punifh all offenders, whether againll the ftate, or againlt in- dividuals. He was alfo Generaliffimo, and commanded the warriors, when called out upon fervice ; but, by all ac- counts, this is very leldom. The king, freqviently, took fome pains to inform us of Feenou's office ; and, among other things, told us, that if he himfelf fhotild become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I underitood, by this expreffion of being a bad man, was, that, if he did not go- vern according to law, or cuftom, Feenou would be ordered, by the other great men, or by the people at large, to put him to death. There Ihoxild feem to be no doubt, that a Sovereign, thus liable to be controuled, and punilhed for an abufe of power, cannot be called a defpotic monarch. When we conlider the number of illands that compofe this little ftate, and the diftance at which Ibme of them lie from the feat of government, attempts to throw off the yoke, and to acquire independency, it IhoTild feem, might be apprehended. But they tell us, that this never happens. One reafon why they are not thus dil v.bed, by domcftic (Quarrels, may be this : That all the powerful Chiefs, as we have already mentioned, relide at Tongataboo. They alio fccure the dependence of the other iflands, by the celerity of their operation& , tor if, at anv time, a troublefome and 3 C 2 popular '777- July. 412 A VOYAGE TO % I vv ■i ^ IT popular man fliouH ftart up, in any of them, Feenou, or whoever holds his office, is i^nmediately difpatched thitlier to kill him. By this means, they crafh a rebellion in its very infancy. ' The orders, or claflTes, amongfl their Chiefs, or rhofe Vvho call themfelves fuch, feemed to be almort as numerous .^ amongft us; but there are few, in comp.rifon, th't are lonls of large diftridls of terrilory ; the reit holding their lands under thofe principal barons, as they may be cr'ied. I WTO,, indeed, told, thrt when a man of property dies, evcj V t'lJne he leaves belundhini falls to the kinj;; but that it is ufual to gj •? it to the eldert fon of the deceafed, with an obligation to j?rake a proviiion, out of it, for the reft of the children, it is i-.f^t the cuftotn here? as at Otaheite, for the fon, the moment he is born, to take from the father the horoage aiu! title ; but he iucceeds to them, at his dcceafe ; fo that their form of government is not only monarchical, bxit hereditary. The order of fucceffion to the crown, has not been of late interrupted ; for we know, from a particular circumftance, that the Futtafaihes (Poulaho being only an addition, to dif- tingailh the king from the reit of the family) have reign- ed, in a dire<5l line, for, at leaft, one hundred and thirty-five years. Upon inquiring, whether any account ha.l been preferved amongft them, of the arrival of Tafman's ftiips, we found, that this hiltory had been handed down to them, from their anceftors, v/ith an accuracy which marks, that oral tradition may fometimes be depended upon. For they deli ribcd the two fliips, as refembling ours ; mentioning the place where they had anchored; their having ftaid but •V few days ; and their moving from that l^ation to Anna- iiiooka., And, by way of informing us how long ago this had THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4^3 m had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe who was then king, and of thofe who had fucceeded, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth fince that perioflible : Englifli. I A', THE PACIFIC O.C E AN. Englifli. Friendly I/lands. Otabeite. 'The fun, Ehia, Eraa. Fire, Eafoi, Eahoi. thunder. Fatoorc, Patcere. Rain, Ooha, Eooa. The wind. Matan^tc, Mataee. Warm, Mafanna, Mahanna. The clouds. Ao, Eao. Land, Fonooa, Fenooa. Water, Avy, Evy. SUep, Mohc, Moe. A man. Tangata, Taata. A zvoman. Vefaine, Waheine. Ayounq- girl. Taheine, Toonea. Afervant, or per/on o/) Toutoii, or teou mean ratiK, 3 The dawn, or day-break. Alio, Aoii. T'he hair. Fooroo, Eroroo. the tongue, ' Elelo, Erero. the ear. Tarcenga, Tareea. the beard. Koomooj Ooma. thefea. Tahec, Taee. A boat, or canoe, Wakka, Evaa. Black, Oole, Ere. Red, Goola, ^ Oora, oora. A. lance, ox f pear, Tao, Tao. A parent. Motooa, Madooa. What is that f Kohaeea ? Yahaeea ? to holdfajl. Amou, Moi!. to wipe, or clean thing. anvl ^^ ■ VHoro, liovoee. 417 «777- July. Vol. L 3 II Englifli. A VOYAGE TO Enqlifli. Friendly IJlands. To rife upi Etoo, To cr\yOY/hed tecirSi Tangec, To eat-, or cheWi Eky, i?j, Ai, No, Kaee, Touy Koc, /, Oil, Ten, Ongofooroo, Otabelte. Atoo. Taee. Ey. Ai. Aee. Oe. Won. Ahooroo. P m ~'ii m Having now concluded my remarks on thefe iflands and people, I fliall take my final leave of them, after giving fome account of the allronomical and nautical obfervations that were made during our ftay. And, firft, I mull take notice, that the difference of lon- gitude, between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is Ibmewhat lefs than was marked in the chart and narrative of my laft voyage. This error might eafily arife, as the longitude of each was then found A\ithout any connexion with the other. But, now, the diltance between them is determined to a degree of precifion, that excludes all poflibility of miltake ; which the following table will illuftrate : The latitude of the obfcrvatory at Tongataboo, b-y the mean of fe- veral obfervations, _ - - The longitude, by the mean of one hundred and thirty-one fets of lunar obfervations, amounting to above a tboufand oblcr\cd dif- tances, between the moon, fun, and Ifars, 2i" 8' 19" South. - 184 55 iSEaft. The ^ '■ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The (Uffcrcncc of longitude, made by the tinie-keei)er, between the above obfervatory, and that at Annamooka, - - - o' Hence, the longitude of Annamo- ka is - - - - 185 By the time keeper Its latitude 16' II 18 Eaft. ime- C (Jreenwich rate, - 186 12 27 it is, I New Zealand rate, 184 37 o 419 20 15 N. B. The obfervatory at Tongataboo was near the middle of the North fide of the iiland ; and that at Anna- mooka, on its Weil fide ; but the tliart will elucidate this. The time-keeper was too How for mean time at Green- wich, on the firft of July at noon, by la' 34" 33',2; and her daily ivut, .11 iiiui time, was lofing, on meantime, l'>7^3/'^^' ^^-^Y' This rate will now be ufed for finding the longitude by the time-keeper; and 184° 55' 18", or 12" 19" 4i',2, will be taken as the true longitude of Tongataboo, Eall from Clreen^ ich. By the mean of feveral obfervations, the South end of the needle was found to dip T-cfooga, one of the Hapaec iflands, '^6^ 55' Tongataboo - - - 39 if- The variation of the compafs was found to be At At Annamooka, on board, Anchor off Kotoo, between 1 Annamooka and Hapaee, J Anchor oif Lcfooga, Tongataboo, on board, .Ditto, on lliore, 3 H 2 - 8^ 30' 31- - 8 12 291- 10 II 40 9 44 5i- 10 12 58 I can 1% 42G '777 July. A VOYAGE TO I can aflign no reafon why the variation is fo much lefs at, and near, Annamooka, than at either of the other two places. I can only fay, that there is no fault in the ob- fervations ; and that the variation ought to be more at An- namooka than the above, as it has been found to be fo to the Northward, Southward, Eaftward, and Weftward of it» But difagreements in the variation, greater than this, even in the fame needle, have been often obferved. And I Ihould not have taken notice of this inllance, but from a belief that the caufe, whatever it is, exifts in the place, and not hi the needles ; for Mr. Bayly fo\md the fame, or rather more difference. The tides are more confiderable at thefe iflands, than at any other of my difcoverics in this ocean, that lie within the tropirs. At \nnamooka it is high water, on the full and change days, nearly ni- fix o'clock, and the tide rifes and falls there, ui^on a perjiendicxilar, about fix feet. In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is high water, on the ftUl and change days, at fifty minutes paft fix. The tide rifes and falls, on thofe days, four feet nine inches ; and three feet fix inches at the Quadratures. In the channels between the iflands, which lie in this harbour, it flows near tide and half tide ; that is, the flood contimies to run up near three hours, after it is high water by the fliore ; and the ebb continues to run down, after it is flood by the fliore. It is only in thefe channels, and in a few other places near the fhorcs, that the motion of the water or tide is perceiveable ; fo that I can only guefs at the quarter- from which the flood comes. In the road of Annamooka,, it fets Weil South Weft, and the ebb the contrary ; but it falls into the liarbour of Tongataboo from the North Weft, palfe^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN» pafles through the two narrow channels, on each fide of Hoolaiva, where it nins with confiderable rapidity, and then fpends itfelf in the lagoon. The ebb returns the fame way, and runs with rather greater force. The North Weft tide is met, at the entrance of the lagoon, by one from the Eaft ; but this, as I have before obferved, was found to be. very inconfiderable. 421 >777- July. IND OF THE FIRST VOLUME,