P^^^BS A^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 at. MM == 1^ 1^ I.I Hi \2A 2.2 ^ lifi IM *- .. 1.25 III 1.8 U 1111.6 ^ O V] />^ /^ o 7 4 "^ iV .^\^ « % ^^.^ ^J%. ^"^ m, ^ ^ 'Aj^ % ^^ V" V A CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical Notes / Notes techniques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Physical features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. 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The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes ou les planches trop grandes pour dtre reproduites en un seul cliche sont film^es d partir do Tangle supdrieure gauche, de gauche A droite et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Le diagramme suivant illustre la m^thode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 GLACE BAY, SHIPPING. MABOU BRIDGE. ARICHAT. PLASTERS, ASPY BAY. BADDEGK. CAPE BRETON ILLUSTRATED : % ISTORIC, ipiCTURESQUE AND ^ESCRIPTIVE By JOHN M. GOW. ILLUSTEA.TED BY JAMES A. STUBBERT. Toronto: WILLIAM BRIGGS, WESLEY BUILDINGS, RICHMOND STREET. MONTREAL: C. W. COATES. 1803. HALIFAX: S. F. HUESTLS. HEX o o CAPE NORTH. FROM THE ST. LAWRENCE SHORE. .■!^- "KU" " INTRODUCTION. THE "importance and advantage" of Cape Breton in a military and commercial sense were early recognized by the contending French and English. Its value was especially appre- ciated by the former, as it controlled the approach to their ancient colony of Canada. They employed all their military and diplomatic skill in its defence and for its retention. But though repeatedly successful in the latter, they ultimately failed in the former. Louisburg, by its strength and commanding position, drew upon it the invidious regard, and at last the vengeance, of the New England colonies. Their expedition against Cape Breton was their first national enterpri'- ,id its result was their first national triumph — and it presaged greater things. There we*' not wanting those who saw in the downfall of Louisburg the independence of the America' . . lOnies ; and the prospect was neither new nor uninviting to them. It had occupied a place in the consciousness of the New Englanders ever since the Pilgrim Fathers set foot upon Plymouth Rock. The dormant idea of national separation was fanned into flame before the walls of Louisburg. In this volume it is attempted to account for the American Puritan and for his progenitor, the English Puritan; to discuss the spirit and the genius of the men before whom the weak tyranny of kings hopelessly fell. The English and American revolutions were accomplished by men actuated by principles substantially the same. The ancient town and fortress of Louisburg is described, and the story of both sieges is told in detail. There is a • i IV INTRODUCTION. w short account of the colonial struggle between France and England, and of its immediate and remote results — the erection of the United States into a separate nationality, and the formation of the nucleus of the Dominion of Canada. There is also inserted a short history of Cape Breton, with a description of its prospective commercial advantages, and a presentation of its attractions as a summer resort. The works to which the writer is indebted in the preparation of this volume are : " Brown's History of Cape Breton," a most valuable and exhaustive work, indicating great research and accuracy, and written in a clear and genial style ; " Narrative and Critical History of America," Parkman's "Montcalm and Wolfe," Belknap's "History of New Hampshire," Hutchinson's " History of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay," Neale's "Account of the Colonial Wars," Parson's " Life of Pepperell," " Massachusetts Archives," State Documents and Records of Massachusetts, Governor Hutchinson's Diary, " Life of Milton," " Life of Oliver Cromwell," General Stewart's " History of the Highland Regiments," " History of America," " Eig'.ty Years' Progress in British North America," and others. The history of the development of the English-speaking races in North America is a subject of great interest. We know what men are by knowing their history ; thence we can calculate future probabilities. As an honest effort in this direction, and an attempt to present the claims of the island of Cape Breton, this volume is respectfully presented to the public. JOHN M. GOW\ CONTENTS CHAPTER I.- II.- III.- IV.- V.- VI._ VII.- VIII.- IX.- X.-- XI. XIT. XIII. —The English Puritan —The American Puritan -The Briton a.s an Organizer and a Colonist -The Fhenuhman as Mlssionary and Colonist -The Seven Years' War .... -Description of the Town and Fortress oy Louisburg -The New England Invasion of Cape Breton -The First Siege of Louisburg . -The Second Siege op Louisburg -The United States -Cape Breton -The Dominion of Canada ■Attractions op Cape Breton for Tourists "AUK 31 58 78 98 126 160 176 230 282 314 368 404 l! PASSING THROUGH THE LOCKS, ST. PETER'S CANAL. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1 I Combination Engbavino— p^oe Glace Bay, Shipping— Plasters, Aspy Bay— Mabou Bridge- Baddeck-Arichat . Frontispiece Cape North, from the St. Lawrence Shore Opposite 3 Passing throitgh the Locks, St. Peter's Canal . 7 Map of Cape Breton Indian River Falls , . Bird's-eye View of Margaree Valley Waters of the St. Lawrence UiSGE Ban Falls North River Valley .... Ingonish, looking toward Cape Enfi-me Combination Engraving- Lighthouse, LouisnuRG— Sunrise on Battery Island— New Town, from the East Co.mbination Engraving — Bomb-proof Casemate — Black Rock — Hay- making Scene— Ruins of Barracks— Site of West Gate— Ditch and Ruined Wall New Town, fhom Grand Battery Combination Engraving — Harbour of LouisnrRo from the Citadel- Old French Cupboap.d — Interior, (Jrand Battery— Ruins of Convent and Hospital— 9 24 32 48 65 88 114 128 134 144 Looking toward Green Hills from Citadei,— Ruined Wall and Ditch from Citadel . Plan of F'ortifications of Louisburo, 1745 Grenadier Leap From Lighthouse Point, looking toward Bat- tery Island and Black Point Freshwater Cove, Amherst Landing CoMniNAIIOl; ExiiKAVING — Wolfe's Landing, looking West- Flat Point —Sea View from Flat Point— Wolfe's Land- ing, LooKiNii East— Sea Shore from Light- HoisK, [.(H)KiN(i East Sydney .... Tarhert, St. Ann's Grand Narrows Ingonish Beach Cape Clear North Sydney FrusT Passengkfi Car Lion's Head, North River Sentinel, Ingonish Island Cape North, fiiom the Atlantic Shore Whycocomah Bay . PAQB 152 176 198 206 231 252 321 336 362 384 400 404 408 410 414 416 421 It H \- w. •*¥— ■■^--■iritr-w ri w^- -*^a£#*«% CAPE BRETON ILLUSTRATED. THE ENGLISH PURITAN. THE English Puritan is a character unique in history. He was the child of England and its peculiar history. The establishment of the Saxon dominion in England carried with it the maintenance of a class of freemen, the Saxon bowmen and billmen, the rank and file of their armies, who were necessary to the existence of the Saxon power, and whose rights and liberties, in consequence of this fact, were best guaranteed. The State depended upon the Saxon freeman for its strength, and was compelled in turn to pay the price — the independence of the soldier. The army of Harold represented in a full degree the condition of liberty existent among the early Saxons, and which had existed from the earliest times among the tribos who migrated as invading armies from the East. The peoples who crashed through the tottering ramparts of Rome represented the primitive idea of the liberty of man in a far higher degree than did the disintegrating power which it was their stern mission to trample under foot. The Goth, as far as the posses- sion of an inviolate personality was concerned, more nearly resembled the primitive Roman Republican than he did the enervated citizen of the decaying Empire. The primitive Roman patriot who " Under an old oivk's domestic shade, Enjoyed, spare feast, a radish and an egg," and the northern barbarian had this much in common, that every individual was a distinct and separate personality, and went, as a unit, to make up the power of the nation. Man, while advancing in what is called civilization, loses his freedom unless rescued by religion. True religion is the only true freedom, or, to put it authoritatively, " If the truth shall make you free, ye shall be I li 10 CAPE PRETOX ILLUSTRATED. free indeed." But how vast and sublime is truth — the whole truth of existence. Our race is but yet in the faint ji;limmerini];s of the dawn of that truth — truth of life and of being, which is hidden in the Intinite, and which the Creator has already prepared for the earnest, importunate and loving seeker. The Eternal House- holder has things new and old to bring forth out of His stockhouse to show His obedient children. But religion, even the most subl^np and practical the world has ever seen, has not as yet been able to give force and intensity enough to the current that makes for man's liberty. It is superliuous to say that this is not the fault of religion, but of the medium through which it is conveyed, and of the men to whom it comes. As long as religion is misinterpreted and misunderstood it must fail of its mission. Man's bondage, at first mainly physical and accomplished by physical means, comes at length to be imposed by other and meaner considerations and inHuences. As man becomes more and more civilized, ana is taken to pieces, as it were, to face his complex culture in every direction, the primal leg'timate force of his being is more or less dissipated. The means and instruments of his degradation are more and moi'e multi- plied, and he falls under numberless, nameless and petty tyrannies, which go to form a raore contemptible aggregate than that vast and gigantic tyranny to which he was first subjected by those " mighty hunters before the Lord," of whom we read in. the early history of man. We see their Titanic figures moving across the background of time in the uncertain primeval light, menacing their victims in the very face of the Eternal God. We see power, the attribute of the Eternal alone, stolen from Heaven by the puny hand of man, and desecrated, blasphemed, to the shedding of a brother's blood. Thus is God, the Creator, defied and His work reversed by that little fiend, man. Thus we see in the far East gigantic and stony memorials of Titanic empires — unhallowed, heaven-defiant despotisms—which have perished without a name. No man knows who they were or what they were, that ruled them. The echoes of their har.sh, inhuman voices do not profane even the sounding corridors of time. They have been stricken into oblivion by the avenging hand of the Almighty. But this early tyranny was at least respectable inasmuch as it was mighty and God-defiant. It was all done " before the Lord." But what shall be said of the thousand and one petty complicated tyrannies of a so-called civilized life ? The tyranny of Church — for tyranny is never so mean and merciless and cowardly as when it masks in the alb and stole of the priest — and the tyranny of State ? the tyranny of wealth and station, j^nd office, and of society generally i the tyranny of coldness, and neglect, and qncharitableness ; of ' > I ^SS^Sfc*. rnn english pvritask 11 ill a dulnoss, and ignorance, and common-place, and respectability, and conventionality, and hoUowness, and hypocrisy of life ? of the tyranny under which man voluntarily falls in consequence of the complications of civilized life ? Either give us back the age in which men struck and struck back again with the force of giants, or else give us a new ar^d stronger and more comprehensive and lasting and mighty and eternal life, commencing now and ''eaching forth into power and light and a fulness and exceeding weight of glory. Again, we repeat, the only antidote to all tyranny, manifold and complex, is solid and genuine and intelli- gent religion, which is the only agency in the universe capable of raising man to an eternal platform of equality ; and to this the Englishman made some approach in the Puritanic age, an approach harsh, ungraceful, undignified and unamiable, it is true, but whose influences still remain and serve to show us, perhaps, some- thing of the capabilities of religion as a liberator of men. Puritanism was something like an iron age of equality in England for a few years, but in that result we may see indications that religion has in it the possi- bilities of bringing about a golden age of equality — not for a few years, but for all time a>.d all eternity, too. The Noruian Conquest perpetuated the idea of liberty in England, beginning, as might be said, with Magna Charta, the written expression of the Englishman's liberty — that liberty which dwells in the heart of man. Magna Charta did not create the Englishman's liberty ; the converse is true. The Englishman's liberty extorted Magna Charta not once only, but twenty-six times from the sovereigns of Britain. The feudal system, while reducing this liberty to a sort of order, however rude and mechanical and fantastic, still held within it the element of freedom, and preserved the liberty of the Briton until the Reformation. This movement placed the liberty of mankind upon an entirely new and higher basis. We now see freedom dressed in a wondrous garment of more than earthly device, robed in which prince and peasant, serf and noble, gentle and simple are all alike, and stand arrayed before God in strange and mystic vestment, becoming the children of a more than earthly kingdom. The invention of printing stimulated the power of thought and discrimination in the common people ; and the reading of the Scriptures being not only allowed but substantially enjoined, it is easy to understand how the reading and discussion of these amounted to an education in itself; and as the Scrip- tures have to do principally with man's innermost and deepest experiences, one can readily .see how by these means man's personality and experience were deepened and strengthened, and his subjectivity clearly and sharply defined. It was now and ever impossible to bring the Englishman into the thraldom, either of mind or body, to which he had been subjected. This education was not free from danger, as we shall see ; yet it IS CAPE nRKTOA' ILLUSTRATED. was preeminently the best that could be broiif^ht into contact with men who already knew something of liberty, and who were unwittingly arming for the fight against the petty tyranny of kings. In his new study and contemplation of liberty the Englishman was brought directly into the presence of the Author and Giver of all liberty — all barriers between the personality and its God were broken down, and man stood forth disenthralled, regenerated and transformed, the child of a new and imperishable system. The allegiance of man is now transformed from earth to heaven, or at least to heaven as he understands it. The Puritan, therefore, represents the religious development of that phase of the English character which had culminated in the Elizabethan age — an age of magnificent crystallization in the intellectual, moral and religious world. We have now a strong nation — a strong queen and a strong people ; an age of spontaneous heroism in private and public life. Men, and women, too, move across the stage of existence sharp and decisive, strong and nervous, firm and deliberate in voice and gesture. Shakespeare says : "All the world's a stage, And all the men and women merely players." lu his time they were strong players, and acted their parts well, and there was less in them of the player, too, than there has been at any time since. If ever " Life is real, life is earnest," it was so in the Elizabethan age. The formative influences which had gone to make up English character had been working in calm and storm, in peace and war, in tumult and battle, for ages, and now the instant of crystallization had come, and, lo ! by a process more inscrutable and wondrous than that which meets the rapt gaze of the physical scientist, men start into separate and distinct and symmetrical individuality, yet clinging and clustering around a common centre of mystic potency, and that centre is the life and strength and growth and glory of England. Men were now mighty in word and thought and deed. This was the age of Shake- speare and Milton and Cromwell and Hampden and Biinyan. Shakespeare, by sheer force and intensity of intellect and of sympathy, marching through life all uncon- sciously, speaking in the language of the warrior, the patriot, the hero, the lover, the knave, the mimer, the murderer, holding spell-bound a world which has not yet been, and never shall wish to be, emancipated from his influence ; which would consider itself robbed of one of its chief delights were it debarred entrance ^mmce^im^gmiS^^ jgigj;^j«P^aEass*«Sss]^^ TNF nm;rjsfr pukitan. 13 into that magic world in which we all secretly live, but of which our little and circumscribed lives can express so little. Milton, the stern and mighty singer of the North, who in his youth had gone the way of the South and learned its sweetness ; who, in the morning of life, sang crisp and cool nnd warm and languid woodland lays to his youthful companions; who rang the Christmas chimes to the snblimcst melody the earth has ever heard ; whose high and noble soul stood forth to battle for the rights of Englishmen, and awed into silcnco friend and foe alike by the majestic scorn of his language and his sentiments ; who feared not to marshal to the light the very hosts of heaven as his trumpet rings through the vaulted deep ; and angels, scarce mightier than he, own the kindred sound, and condescend to march past before his poor blinded eyes in admiring obedience ; at last, in comparative poverty and neglect, grinding, like another Samson, at the mill of his own petty earthly existence. And Bunyan, the most wondrous and cunning playwright of them all — for it was an age of playwrights — choosing for his theatre the soul of man, and for his actors the dark and mighty and benignant and benevolent powers which contend for mastery in our inner and higher citadel of life. What an age of men that must have been which could thus produce and appreciate this analysis of the hidden life as it struggles and bleeds on towards God. Enslave men like that ? No ; they may be imprisoned for conscience' sake, but all earthly bonds fall from their souls as the withes from the limbs of Samson. And Cromwell, striking wicked authority with one rude blow of his gauntletted hand from its ancient accustomed seats, now dishonoured and undone, taking his place on the empty throne, and governing with a firmness and strength, a justice and a moderation, which England has not seen .since. In that age and in that country the world first saw the strange spectacle of a people rejecting and destroy- ing an unworthy king and trampling upon all law and precedent in obedience to that instinct which is older than all kings and all earthly authority — the primeval liberty of man. An age and a land which produce men like the.se must be great and must have had a great and inspiring history. And great men never rise singly, but in groups and communities, and are the outcome of those causes which are continually occurring in the history of a great nation. When the occasion meets the men they rise in all their glory and all their strength, in obedience to the trumpet blast which .summons them into the arena, 14 CAPE BRETON ILLUSTRATED. ' i! and future generations look backward with admiring gaze, and cannot and dare not relinquish what has been gained for them in the strife. The English Revolution was the direct outcome of three distinct factors, the national and historic instinct of liberty, the Reformation, and the Puritanical sentiment. The first was purely military, and had its origin, as we have seen, in the constitution of the English armies from the earliest times, and, as the centuries went by, in the limiting power of parliament in controlling the .supplies. The second factor was at first mainly intellectual in its nature, but deepened and strengthened as men began to realize the full significance of God's message to man — to comprehend the nature of their true and inner and better birthright. It was then that they truly and emphatically refused to be enslaved, and it is then that their record appears in the history of the nation ; and their record is the record of a revolution. When man becomes worthy his record appears, but not before. As far as those two factors resulting in the Revolution are concerned, they have left behind them no traces of evil, be:5ause, in the nature of constitutional government, they are not liable to abuse. Armies, either formed directly by the body of the people or through their parliament, were always a chuck on the absolute power of the sovereign. The freedom acquired by the Briton by serving as a soldier in the middle ages has never degenerated into military license, for the reason that the whole feudal sy.«*^em has been super- seded by modern economics, and the soldier no longer exists except as an imperial necessity. The intellectual impetus which was given to individual life by the Reformation was fraught with no danger to constitutional government, because men cannot know too much of the revealed hand of God and of the means and manner of His being made known to man. The study of sacred things is the study of the highest and best parts of man. We stand in the presence of unfathomable mysteries on every hand, and are continually in an intelligent, because in a receptive, attitude of mind, and are in no danger of vulgar self- confidence or ignorant assertion. We know something of the relativity of knowledge ; we recognize ranks and degrees among seekers after truth in proportion to the experience and ability of the individual ; and seekers after truth never quarrel — it is self-seekers only who do that. Intellectual or scientific cant is an impossibility, a contradiction in terms. Cant is emotional or religious weakness or vanity, and finds no place in the realm of pure intellect or of truth-seeking. But when we come to the third factor in the product of the English Revolution it is not all good that is ^ «B»«am5Ga39B«6^'-JB!:.l£SKnver can conquer the world, and never were dosirjned to do it. The mission of Puritanism was to streui^then men, to educate them in the principles of civil and political freedom, and to render Britain and America naticmaliy, and perhaps ostentatiously, reiiij;ious; but it has not enoiiij;h to do with the dissemination of the spirit of Christianity. .\nd the inadiMjuacy lies not so nuich with Puritiyiism in the alistract as in Puritanism as it was conditioned — in the cireuMistances of its oriifin and development. It appears upon the .stn<:;e in the attitude of resistance, and wherever its rcdics subsist it has only in a dejjjree chan<»ed its base, and hence it is not destined to a jicrmanent lib', it cannot survive ; it is not in the nature of thinijs that it should, because it is not the fittest presentation of '. 'hristianity. Puritanism occupies a position relative to modern C-liristianity somewhat analogous to that wlilch the Macca- bean wars sustained to the Me.ssianic idea. The Puritan is just as close to the Phari.see as he is to the " Israelite indeed." The reli