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Cbc Old fdrt» ^ar of 1 81 2* Mtdslone* early Bodat lift attd Other Matters of Interest. mi ■3 :- h: f ■ %' If - ""^ ■ F57a mtw? :iiAiihzli m IK THE LIBRARY S9 ^p9 THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA TbeF.W'.IIoway and R. L. Reid Collection aj C.tnad/jna iv .^^"i ;^.:i I'll mil'' 111.1:1, "ii-nm;tii.,jl!:il' :' o u. "d yi V r o l:. 1/1 a> c j^ ^ ^^ o O — c x: (I> • > ■QC ^ in C o U •5 c (0 -"" z < 3 > O J 1/". £ u\ M •it in j^ — u L. < ca z 4> E o 3 O v; ^ < o o o S z 4» > O tu U r/) I/I u 10 ^ <t • C fll O o u Q. > u lA (0 n U c O) — >■ .i<: u S <k« a m (0 (0 o a» a XJ -i J C£ LL I. m Cfl M 10 (/I > o , Of) -] (U tlfl M nj — ^ > o n a: w < ^ (J o l>. Q o z < </) u < z < Ll. o - > u >■ u t/l b E o u. ■ •=i o ti. (/> o c — C - c — (U di . .ti > ■«) j^ <" = t y .- ^ — C T ■= (0 3 ■; 0) -' Q > f^ .-^ ~ ti. u (/I ^ M .2 "* - c o o U Q. L» (/I c 0) - !5 5 «- a ^ (0 (tj O (U ^' -3 J 3 " 00 J M .— ji >^ . u w < a. M ARLY Mm v.. ■: H G ' ;BLANi i^. •A ■■ ] ..-I-' .•■■ 'H tt " u u < 02 « O 4m« 3 2 •" O X < '5 o o •r T J .^ _J V* ■*• W «* ■w > c o o (♦ a. ^^ ;.' '• i CTi a. ■ ■»-'■>>*■*• ■ ■ -!;:>»:-■ ■r. 5u. V) c '3 u < SMS ^ rn *- — is: ■* 1. ■*- o o u 0. '■ ai — 2 - o Early Mackinac: "THE FAIRY ISLAND." A SKEZTOH. BY Meade C. Williams. Name. -Tndlvn Legends. —Indian Character.— Frenoei En(Jlisii and American Flags.— Old Fort.— Mili- tary- History, and War ov 1812.— Fur Trade. —Early Village Life.— Christian Mis- sions and Ciii:rciies.— Natural At- tractions.— Antiquities. ■ BtrsCHART UK US., PRINT.- ST. LOUIS, MO. I I COPYRIGHT, 1897, BY MEADP: C. WILLIAMS TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVING ONCE KNOWN THF: ISLAND OF THE STRAITS STILL KEMEMBER ITS CHARM, AND REMAIN LNDER THE POWER OF ITS SPELL, THIS KOOK IS DEDICATED. CONTENTS. rREFACE. PHce. CHAPTEK I. The IsluncVs iiiime — Its etyniolo^'y - Its saerednertS in thf Indian's mind -Indian leK«'nfl'^—l^'>f^t'<' vein iu Indian nomenelatnre-Tlie passing,' of the Indian 7 CHAl'TER II. Early setlliuK under the Freueh tla^:— Pioneer military post on northern mainland— La Hontan's \isit— Removal to Detroit and return Post established on southern mainland— Ens-'lish sway- Discontent of Ihe Indians— Ball game and massacre— Alexander Henry— Wawatam— Skull Cave 15 CHAPTER III. Removal to the island proposed—Transfer effected— Major Sinclair —Captain Robertstm (Robinson)- Rum—Building the fort 25 CHAPTER IV. American Independence achieved— England's delay in surrendering Mackinac- A second treaty required to secure American oc- cupation—Greenville treaty with the Indians— F\ir trade- Washington Irving's description of Mackinac— Another picture. 33 CHAPTER V. War of 1812 opens— ••British Landing"— Fort Mackinac captured by the British— Of great importance to British interests— Oftlcial reports— Building of Fort Holmes (Fort George) 42 CHAPTER VI. American expedition to recover Mackinac— Effects entrance at '•British Landing"- The battle— Major Holmes killed— Ameri- can forces withdraw- Destroy British supplies in Georgian Bay- Blockade elTected - Blocade raised— Mackinac again ceded lo United States in ISI5— Old cannon— Early officers at the fort- Fort given over to State of Michigan 00 CHAPTER VII. Early citizens of the island- Ramsey Crooks as connected with the f\ir trade— Robert Stuart, resident partner in the Astor Fur Co, —Henry R Schoolcraft, government agent, scientist and ex- plorer— His literary works and character, ...,,, , 01 PHce. .. I) 's e ,. 7 15 25 CONTENTS. 5 CHAPTER VIII. Jesuit mi.s.sions-Marquette-Churc.h of St. Ann at Old Mackinac, and on the island-Trinity Church-Mission School and Old Mission Church-Story of Chuska-Old Church restored 73 CHAPT]<1R IX. Excee(-ug beauty of the island-Woods-Ve^etation-U-ater views-Curiosities in stoue-Arch liock-SugarLoaf-Robmsons Folly and its legends CHAPTER X. The island's celebrity as a place of resort-Early duv visitors- Books of deseription-Countess Ossoli (Margaret Fuller)- \ Xew ^ork d.,ctor^. visit in 1H:{5-Cap.ain Marryatt-Mrs. Jameson- Miss Harriet Martineau -O- 42 LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. Birds eye vie w of Mackinac Island y La Honian's Sketch. KiKS Fort Mackinac • Mackinac Beach Henry R. Schooh-raft. Old Mission Church Sugar Loaf Arch R(jck Tauglewood One of the Drives rontLspiece . 1(3 . 41 . m . SI . yi .103 .106 00 PREFACE. I have had thirteen summers at Mackinac. Fellow visi- tors there have often sugges^.tod that I should furnish, in written form, some studies of the island. While it is believed this skcitch may have interest for the general reader, it at the same time carries a local coloring which m iy more particularly appeal to those who know the place. As the charm of the locality is due, in no small degree, to that halo of antiijuity which hangs ov(ir it, I have felt warranted in restricting myself to <v//7// Mackinac, with but slight allusion to anything short of sixtj' years aj*o. This sketch embodies the result of considerable research among books and documents. Some fifty different works have b(H!n consulted. Generally, though not always, these are indicated in the narrative. As the reader will preceive, I am greatly indebted to the various writings of Henry K. Schoolcraft. I would also express my special sense of obligation to the valuable series of "Collections and Research- es," a work carried on by the Michigan l*ioneer and Historical Society. These Crilb ctions, at present, number twenty-six volumes. The use they make of the important "Haldimand Papers" of Canada, brings to hand much of the early military history of the Straits and of the Island fort. Instead of a foot-note reference in every case, I make here a general acknowledgement. During tlu^ i)rogress of my wo»k I hove hud great satis- faction in a correspondence with Col.Wm. Montague Ferry, of Park City, Utah, a son of the Rev. Wm. M. Ferry, of the Island Mission work of long ago, and who well remembers Mackinac as the home of his childhood days. >S^^ Louin, Mo., {In<jle7ieuk, June, 1SU7. Mackinac Island) I EARLY MACKINAC. I CHAPTER I. Michilimackinac was the old-lime name, not for our beautiful island alone, but for all the countiy round about us, north to Lake Superior and west to the head of Green Bay. It was the ishmd only that was first thus called. The word ^rew out of it, and, small bit of land though it is, it threw its name over a vast territory The name has been variously si)elled. In old histories, reports, and other documents, T have found Mishlimakina, Missilimakinac, Mishilmaki, Michilimachina, Missilimakina, Michiliakimawk; while in one standard history, when tliis re_o-ion is spoken of, it invariably ap])ears as Michilimaki- naw.* In its abbreviated foi-ni it has been writ- ten Mackinack, Macina, Maquina, Mackinac, Mack- inaw. In all the earlier periods following the set- tlement of the island by the whites, in books of travel and of history, the two ways of writing it were used interchangeably, though the formMack- himv was most commonly adoi)ted. Also in many of the early maps and atlases it is so given. Steam- boat companies running boats to the island, gener- ally adv<>rtised them as of the "Macldna\v Liuis" and likewise business firms here so wrote the word *Henry Adams' 'History of the United States." i i y i«:akly mackinac. —at least as froquontly as the otlierform. So this was quite f^^eiieral dui'ing all that time, except that the official naim? of tlie military post held to the tenniiiation "ac." But since the railroad compan- ies built thcnr modern terminal town across the straits and called it Mackinaw City, for the sake of convenience in distinguishing, the name of the island is now uniformly written Mackinac. In pronuncia- tion, however, without attempting to settle the question by the laws of orthoepy, it may be re- marked that it is consid(M'ed very incori-ect; and to the ears of residents, and old hdhituef^ and lovers of the island, it is almost distressful to hear it pro- nounced anything else than Mackina?;?. A com- promise may perhaps be allowed by taking the name as if it bore the termination "ah, " and giving it a sound b(^t\ve('n the ilat and the very broad. The (• must never be sounded. The origin of the word is in some obscurity. All agree that the first part of it, "Michi," means great. It is preserved in the name of the State, Michigan, and in thc^ name of th" Lake, Lake Michigan — meaning great waters The French took it up, s})elling it Missi; hence t .e name of the river Mississippi — great I'iver, the father of waters. Conc(n'ning the remainder of the name which fol- lows the Michi, we ai'e not so sure. The common view is tliat the foi'm of the island, high-backed in the center, as it rises above the waters, and hand- somely crowning the whole, suggesteo to the Indian fancy the figure of a large turtle. Hence that it became known as the land of the Great Turtle. I ORICIN OF THE WORD. 9 ^o this 3t that to the )mpan- ss the ^ake of ; island luncia- tle the be re- and to vers of it pro- ^ coni- ng the giving broad. ;curity. means State, , Lake D^rench ; of the ^vaters. ch fol- ommoii ;ked in I hand- to the Hence Great Schookn-afi, wlio is tlie best autlioi-ity on all questions pertaining to the Indian language, as well as to the customs and characteristics of that race, says that the oi-iginal name of the island was Mishi-miii-auk-in-ong, and that it means the i)laco of the great dancing spii'its— these spirits being of the more inferior and diminutive order, instead of belonging to the Indian collection of gods; a Kind of pukwees, or fairies, or sprites, j-ather than Man i tons. Heriot, an English traveler in North America, and who published his "Ti-avels through the Canadas, " in 1807. touched at Mackinac and reports as the origin of the nanie that the island had been given, as tlieir S])ecial abode, loan order of spirits called Imakinakos, and that "trom these aerial possessors it had received the api)ellatk)not'Michi- limackinac." Perhaps tiies«» different views can in a manner be combined. The turtle was held in great re\er- ence by the Indians. In their mythology it was regarded as a symbol of tlu^ earth and addressed as motlier. * The fancied physical I'esemblance of the island could easily worlv in with their m\thical *Auar.Mv Laii- ill his ■Myths. Kit uiil iiml Relit,aous.-- (Vol 1 p IS-') meutioiis oertai.i of the Imliuu tnl.,-s its holih'u- tho nuu-y that (lie earth Krew out of the tortoise. One form tliat the h'^end tonic was that Ataheustie. u vvouian of the upper world, hart been banished froin the slvv. and fuliintr. dropjied on the bael< ..f a, turtle in tli(> midst of the waters. The turtle eonsulted with the oth.-r a.iuatie animals and one of them, peuerally .said to have be.-n tlie musl<-rat. IIsIh d up s.m^e soil and fashionrd the .-arth. Uer.' the woman -ave birth lo i wins and thus betrau the i)eoplin- of the ^lobe Thus in the crude fancy of the Western Indians do w.- lind a reHeethm or fratrment ..f the ancient myth which once i)revailed in the oriental mind that the world re.sted on the back uf a turtle. 10 EARLY MACKINAC. idea of the turtle, apart from its having any ety- mological connection. And thus whatever way the name is studied it becomes associated with some Indian conception of spirit. All singular or strik- ing foi'mations in the work of nature — objects that were of an unusual kind or very large and impos- ing, as lofty rocks, overhanging cliffs, mountains, lakes and such like — these jjoor untutored cliildren looked upon as the habitations of spirits. Our island therefore, physically so different from the other islands and the mainland about it, with its glens and crags, and its many remarkable and strange looking stone formations, would easily be peopled for them with spectres and spirits. They regarded it as their sacred island, and a favorite haunt of their gods, and cherished for it feelings akin to awe; and from the surrounding regions would bring their dead for burial in its soil. The island seems to have been ratlier their place of j'esort and temporary sojourn than of permanent abode. Thei'e is something vei-y fascinating in the fragments of early Indian fanciers and triiditions and legends which are associated with our island. It is interesting, too, to note liow the legends and the mythology of the Indians and their dim religious ideas so often took a poetic form. For instance, in their pagan and untutored minds they thought of the island as the favorite visiting place of Michibou, the great one of the waters, their Manitou of these lakes. That, coming over the waters from the sunrise in the east, he would touch the beach at the foot of Arch Rock; that the large i LEGLNDAKY. 11 -y ety- 'ay the i some ■ strik- ts that impos- n tains, liildren Our om the k'ith its lie and sily be They avorite eeliiigs regions [. The hice of manent in the ?.ditions island, ids and 'ir dim n. For Is they g place s, tlieir ver tlie Ld touch le large mass of stone which liad falh'n from the face of the clilf in the long ago, causing thn arch above, was "Manitou's Landing Place;'' that tlie arch was his gateway through which, ascending tlie hill, he would proceed in stately stop to "Sugar Loaf," wliich in fancy they made to be his wigwam, or lodge — the cave on the west side, known to all to- day, being his doorway. Then again, the Sugar Loaf stone and others of that conical, pyramidal shai)e — such as the one which stands in St. Ignace and in d liferent parts of the noi'thern peninsula, and yet others which formerly stood on the island — that these strange, uncanny looking rock forma- tions, by a modification of fancy, they w^ould X:>ersonify with great giants or monsters who tower- ed o^-er them as sentinels to note whether they made due offerings and sacrifices to Manitou, their success in the hunting and trapping being condi- tioned on this kind of religious tidelitJ^'''■ The Indians, so spontaneously recognizing the world of si3irits,were fruitful in ideas and sentiments of reverence. We are told there wore no profane^ words in their vocabulary. Think of a people who did not know liow to swear because they liad no *Schoolcraft noted a curious fact aiuouK the Chlppe was— that they fancied the woods and shores and i^h.nds were iiiliuliited l).vinuunier!il)le spirits wlio during the summer season were wakeful aud quick to hear everything that was spoken, but durinit? the winter existed only in a torpid state, The Indian story lellei's aud le;.'end mongers were there- fore very free in amusinjjr their listenei's with fanciful aud mysterious tales durin^c 'he winter, as the spirits were then iu a slate of inactivity and could not hear. Kut their story telliuf,' was susi)eiide(l the iiionu'nt the pipiuj? of the frog announced that spriuK had opened. That he had endeavored, h>it in vain, to yet any of them to relate this sort of imatirinary lore at any other time than in the winter. They would always evade his attempts by some easy or indifferent remark. 12 EARLY MACKINAC. words for it ! It is said tluit tho lu^arest they ap- ])roached to cursing a man \vas to call liim "a bad do.£i-." So too in tiie nomenclature of wild or un- conlh looking objects of nature — while our white pioneers and prosixicting miners and avani couriers of civilization in the west liave so often attached to such objects the name of the devil, as "Devil's Lake," "Devil's Slide," "D(>virs Half-acre," "Devil's Scuttle-hole,"' and such like, the Indians g'en(U"illy gave them someex])ressiveandha aioni- ous poetic name. On the island we have the "Devil's Kitchen,"' but we nuiy feel sure that was not of the Indian's naming. The writer of this sketch was told by an old resident who had passed the whole of an extremely long life on the Island,* that once, long ago, t' shoemaker took up his abode ill that cavern and did his cobbling and his cooking there. Possibl3^ that gave rise to the name. In this habit of nomenclature which linked their kleas with the phejiomena of physical nature, we see a beautiful though often rude and childish vein of poetry. Their name for the great cataract of Niagara was "Thunder of the Waters,"' as that for tlie gentle falls now within the limits of the City of Minneapolis was Minnehaha, or "Laughing Waters," The familiar white fish of these regions was the "Deer of the waters." To the horizon limit when they looked out on the lake to where the thread-like line of blue water loses itself in the clouds and sky, they gave a name which signified the "Par off sight of water." Their name for General Wayne, who did so much to overthi'ow *Ignuce Pelotte, died Feb. 1897. I I POETIC VEIN 1 ^ they ap- 1 "i\ bad [d or un- ,\ir white ,t couriers ,t ached to "Devil's alf-acre," e Indians ha xnoni- have the that was ?r of this ad passed e island,* his abode is cooking me. h linked l^al nature, cliildish ,t cataract as that its of the iLaughing ke regions |e horizon to wiiere jelf in the signified Iname for (verthrow their power in the west, was "Strong Wind;"' Avhile the American soldiers from tlieir ns(^ of \]\v sabre and sword in battle, were knov^n as llie '"Long Knives." Their concej^tion of a ft)rt witli its mounted cannon was "Tlie liigh-fenced h()u^e of thunder, "while the discharge was "The arrow lliat Hies out of tlie big gun." A little son of Mr. Schoolcraft, when he was Government agent at the Sault, was admiringly called by the Chi[)p(nvas, Penaci, or "The Bird;" and the English authoress, Mrs. Jameson, when visiting there, after "shooting tiie rapids" with the Indian guides, was re-nanied ' "The wcmian of iho. Bright P'oam. " As t heir whole life and range of observation was const.mtly asso- ciated witii tempests, forests, waters and skies, and all the various ])henomena of pliysical nature, this gave shape to their conceptions and their qu(>stion- ings. It has always seemed very significant that when John Eliot, the pioneer missionary to the Indians in New' England, two hundred and fifty years ago, began his instructions among them, lie Avas met at once by their eager and long pent-up questions of wonder: "What makes the smi ebb and How?" "What makes the wind blow^V" "Whiit makes the thunder?" Parkman rei)resents the Jesuit missionaries in Canada, two centuries since, as testifying that the Indians had a more acute intellect than the peasantry in France. At his best, however, the red man was but the "Child of the forest," and in the presence of the pale faces waF not destined to endure. They are a doomed and a passing race. Many reasons, or causes, might be assigned for 14 EARLY MACKINAC. this. One roason is that which was ^iv^en by a very thoujilitfiil ludiiin in a speech on a certain occasion lonf? u^o, befoi-e a company of frovernment n<4'ents here on our island beach. Said he, very r( llectively: "The white man no sooner came than he tiiou<;iit of ]ir(*parin<^ the way for his posterity; ihe red man never thou<?ht of that." In this pro- found observation is embodied one of the latest de- ductifms in social pliilo.sophy. Of course, in tlius speakinjj^ of the Indians, reference is had to manifestations of their mental character as seen in earlier days, and not to Indian life of the i)resent. as seen in the western reserva- tions.* *CiitUn, who ranks ncvt to Schoolcnift in his study of the Indians, in an extensive ^'lassitication of qualities, contrasts their original character in their "primiiive and disabused state" with their secondary character after "being beaten into a sort of civilization." From being handsome he says they had become ugly; from free, enslaved; from affable, re- served; from bold, timid: from warlike, peaceable; from proud, humble; from independent, dependent; from healthy, sickly; from sober, drunken; from increasing, decreasing; from landholders, beggars. i ;i\^en by a a certain Dvernment I he, very came than , posterity; 1 this pro- e latest de- le Indians, leir mental 3t to Indian rn reserva- yi the Indians, In dginal character mdary character being handsome from affable, re- 1 provid, humble; ,y; from sober, i, beggars. CHAPTER II. The annals of our island since its discovery and occupation by the whites carry us back to an early day. Exi)lorers from France and settlers from Canada were here two hundred and lifty years ago. Traces of Prem^h and Indian mixture are everywhere seen. Indian wars and massacres have reddened these shores. Stories of English power victorious over French, in far back colonial times, have a part in the history of this region. In a later day the island had its stirring incidents in our own war with Great Britain, in 1812. Here was the headquarters of the Mackinaw Fur Company and the Southwest Fur Company, and afterwards of the powerful American Fur Company, of which John Jacob Astor was the chief proprietor, and which made our island for the time the largest seat of commerce in the western country.* Christianity, too, has had here its early enterprises, at the hands first of the French Jesuit missionaries of the 17th Century, and afterwards of Protestantism. In regard to early military annals, history points to the fact that with the exception of the brief abandonm^mt by the French forces from about 1701 to 1714, this region of the straits had been a seat of continuous military occupation from the *Detroit. Vincennes, St. Louis, Lake Winnipej?. Lake of the Woods, and other fur distant points were but dependencies of Michilimackinac, as the metropolis of the Indian trade, 15 16 EAliLY MACKINAC last quju'lfM" of )li(^ 17tli(MMitiir-y down 1()l<*^or), wlion to tin; surpriso Jind i'(vu:r«'t oL' till who k'licw tlio isluiid's lilstoi'v, the United Slati'S ( Joverninont tibolisliod Iho post. T1ii"(h» diffci'cnt lla.n's iiave floated over a, tort in these St fails of AlacK'inaw durin*^ this loriif ])eriod past. Thes(» havi; been in the ord(!r of Frencli, Eii«j:lish Jiiid American. Tlio Fi'encli wei'e the pionoei's. They estal)lished Fort MicliirmiacK'inac, over when^ now tlio town of St. Ignacc stands, four miles across on the northern l)eninsu]a. This was about two hundred and twenty -tive years a<2:o. Baron La Htjntan, who liad come from France to Canada at an early ii<i;i} and afterwai'ds V)ecame Lord Lieutenant of a Fi*ench Colony in Newfound- land, visited our Mackinac neif^liborhood in 1088. In a publicjition of his travels in North America he gives thi'ee letters fr' n tlio Michilimakinac settle- ment of that day.* - s accompanying his picture on the adjoining page he thus wi-ites: '"You can scarce bcdieve what vast sholes of white iish are catched about the middle of the channel, between the continent and the isle of Missilir^akinac. The Out(wuas\ and the Hurons could never subsist here, without that fishery; for they are obliged to travel about twenty leagues in the woods befoi-e they can kill any harts or elks, and it would be an infinite fatigue to cai'ry theii* carcasses so far over land. This sort of white fish, in my opinion, is the only one in all these lakes that can be (tailed good; *The book was first published in French, 1705. Afterwards an ea- larged edition appeared iu English form, 1735. tOttawas. )7), when new tho ri'iiinont o;s havo [{icU'imiw bodi in .in. Tho hcd Fort m of St. northern lr(Hl and n France s became [ewfonnd- L in 1688. merica he lac settle- is picture "You can o iish are , between nac. The r subsist obliged to )ds before )uld be an ;o far over lion, is the lUed good; erwards an en- "3 C 3 O 1> u O "J ;j c no ifi o X rjo U 3 -^ ■^ C 0. (9 X 'J u (/) a Q. 'J c < 5f '/) 3 ■- O n c c 3 o ro !5 ij in 71 c ro 'ji 'i •* LA HOXTAN S LETTER. 17 and indeed it goes oeyoiid all other sorts of river tisli. Above all, it lias one singular property-, namely, that all sorts of sauces spoil it, so that it is always eat either boiled or broiled, without any manner of seasoning. ••In the channel I now speak of. tlie current.i are so stj-ong that they sometimes suck in the nets, tiiough they are two or three leagues off. In some seasons it so falls out that the currents run three days eastward, two days to the west, one to the south, and four northward; sometimes more and sonu'tinu's l(>ss. The cause of this divei-sity of currents could never be fathomed, for in a calm they will run, in the space of one day, to all tiie points of tlie compass, i. c, sometimes in one way, sometimes anotlier, without any limitation of time; so tliat the decision of the matter must be left to the disci[)le of Copernicus. •Here the savage catch trouts as big as one's thigh; with a sort of tishing-hook made in the form of an awl, and made fast to a piece of brass wire, which is joined to the line that reaches to the bottom of the lake. This sort of tishery is carried on uot only with hooks, but with nets, and that in winter as well as in summer. '•Thci Outaomif! and the Ifurnus ha\e very pleasant tields, in which they sow Indian corn, pease and beans, besides a sort of citruls and melons. Sometimes thei^.e savages sell their corn very dear, es])ecially when the beaver hunting happens not to take well; upon which occasion they make sutKcient reprisals upon us for the ex- travagant prico of our commodities. " 18 EARLY MACKIxXAC. For a shoi't interval the French Government, mider tlie instii^^ation of the post Coninumder, CadiHac, Avitlulrew the «i'arrison (as ah-eady men- tioned) and abandoned tills region as a military seat in favor of the new settlement at Detroit. That was about the opening of last century. But tills vacating was soon seen to be bad policy, and in 1714 the fort was re-established. When, how- ever, the restored fort b(>comes known apiin m history it is found located on the Southern Penin- sula, across the Straits, where now stands the railroad town, Mackinaw Citv. Whether on the return from Detroit the military at once located ihc fort there, oi* first resumed the old site at St. Iirnace, and I'emoved to the other Peninsula ut some later period, is not definitely known. At any rate it Avas tlie same military occu})ation, and the same Fort Michilimackinac, irrespective of the time of change in the site. It stood about half a mile from the present Light House, and soutliwesterly from the railroad station; and was so close to the water's edge that when the wi)id was in the west the waves would often break into the stoclcade. Its site is plainly visible 'to-day, and visitors still find relics in tho sand. After the conquest of Canada by the English, in the deciding l)attle of Quebec on the heights of Abraham in 1759, all this country around came un- der the English flag. The Indians, however, liked better the French dominion and their pc^rsonal re- lations with the French peoi)le than tliey did the English sway and English associations, and they did not take khidly to the transfer. One reason PONTIAC S CONSPIRACY. 19 vornment, luuiuiiuler, a military tt Detroit, lury. But policy, cind lieu, liow- 1 ai^^aiu in ,ern Peuin- staiicls the ;ber on the s located the site tit St. ^ulantsome ^t any rate id the same the time of a mile from sterly from I) the water's t the waves Its site is ill find relics he English, b heii-Thts of ind came un- wever, liked |p(*rsonal re- Ihey did the lis, ami they One reation for this prefcu'ence is said to have been that the B'rencli were accustomed to pay respect to all the ludiaijs' religious or superstitious observances, wliereas an Englishman or an American was apt, eitlier to take no [)aius to conceal liis coutempt for their suixu'stitions or U) speak out bluntly against them. To this can be add<Ml the well known fact of the greatcu' n^adiness of the French to intermarry and domesticate with the Indian.* This stroug feeling of discontent under the change of empire, on the part of the Indians, was fanned and skillfully directed by that gri^at leader and (liplomate, Pontiac;f and "The Conspiracy of Pontiac" is the well-known title of one of Park- man's series of Noi'th American liistory. This conspiracy was no less than a deep and compre- hensive scheme, maturcKl by this most crafty savage chief, for a general Indian rising, in which all English forts, from the south to the upper lakes, Avere to be; attacked simultaneously, and the English rule forever destroyed. Th(.' Indians would vauntingly say, "You have conquered the French, but you have not conquc'red us." Out of twelve forts, nine were takcm, but not louir held. *''When the Freuoli iiirivt-d :U tin's pliiL't',' said a Chli^ewa Chief at a council once held iit, the Siiull. 'th-'y c;nne and i<issedus. They called us I'hildreii and \vc found (liem I'lithers, We lived like hrolhers in ^he same lodf,'e.' Sckoolcraft , in (in (uldrc.^s hrfore the Miclii(jiin HiMorical Society i)i ls;!0, "In foi'iM^ of cliaracter, s\il)llety, elotineiice and darinir, l'ont!ao was poriiaps the most brilliant man the Indians of N.nMh America have produced."— ••.! Ilintonj <>/ Cdnadn," by Chas. (!. D. h'oberts. Schoolcraft rated liim in the saini' way. I)i-al<e. in his •■Itulidii^ of thr Northwest.'* says of liim: 'His fame in liis time was not couliuud to his ovvu coniiueati but the (,'azetLes of Europe spread it also,"' 20 EARLY MACKINAC. Wliilo til is sclioii](> Avas, of course, a failure in its larger feat ui-os, the plot as,^ai list the old post of Miclulimackiiiao across the water succeeded only too well. The strategy and liorrors of that capture read like a tale of lictioii. The story is olch but to r(>peat it in tliis sketch will not be amiss. Jt may be introduced under the title of AN iriSTORlC BAr.L GAME. In ITOo a band of Ihirty-tive English soldiers and their ofticcrs formed its garrison. Encamped in the woods not far off was a large number of In- dians. One morning in the month of Juius with groat show of friendliness, the Indians invited the soldiers to witness their match game ot ball, just outside tlie stock'ade. The Chippewas were to play the Sacs,* TIkui, as now, ball playing had great fascination. And as tliis was the birthday oC the King of England, and the; men wer(3 in the celebra- ting mood, some indulgence was shown, discipline for a time rtdaxed, gates wcrii left ajar and the soldiers and ofKceis carelessly saunter( d and look- ed on, enjoying tlu^ sport. In tlu^ cour.<e of play, and as a part of the pi-e-ccmcerted stratagem, the ball was so struck that it fell within the stockade line of the fort. As if pursuing it, the players came rushing to the gate. The soldiers, intent in watching the play, suspected nothing. The Indians now had an open Avay within, and instantly turned from ball-plavers into warrioi's, and a terrifvinc "whoop" was given. The squaws, as sharing in the plot, were standing near with tomahawks con- cealed under tluMr blankets. These were seiz(>d. *J3ugguiiwuy wufn iljeir Kiutl uf bull game, ALEXANDEFl HENRY. 21 I fLiilure ill 3lcl post of ;eodecl only liiit captur<.) , old, bub to ss. It may iisli soldiers Kiicampi'd luboL' of lu- [ Jmio, Avilli ; iiivilod the of ball, just i wen^ U) play ig had i;reat Ihday of the L tlio colebva- n. discipline! |ajar and the ( d and look- irse of play, ■atagoni, the Ithe stockade the players rs, inu-nt in The Indians antly turned a terrifying ,s sharing in ahawks con- Avere seized. and then followed a most shocking massacre. Tlie surprise of the fort and the success of tlie red men were complete. The details of this dreadful event are vivid- ly and luirrowingiy given by the English trader, Alexander Henry, sojourning at tlie time, with his goods, within the stockade, and wlio was a partici- pant in the dreadful scenes and experiences. Tlie humble ILmry may Avell Ijo called the Father of History, like another Herodotus, as far as tliis e[)isode is ccmcei'ned. Excepting the very meagre re]v^rt of th(^ humiliating capture made by Captain Elherington, the officer in command, there seems to be nothing but the narrative of this Enii-lish trader. His description of the fort, the purpose it had been serving, the movements of the Indians pi'eceding the affair, as widl as the minute descj-ip- ticmof the stratagem and its success, and the terri- ble scenes enacted, is the chief source of informa- tion; and one can take up no history of this jieriod and this locality without seeing liow all writers are indebt(Hl to his plain and simple narrative. When the foi't was captin*(Hl by the savages, he himself was hidden for the fii'st niglit out of their miirderou>< reach, but was discovered the n(>xt day. Then follow(Ml a series of experiences and ]ia;i--breadth escapes and turns of f(M'tuno very remaikable, while all tlie tiuK^ the most bai'barous fate S(M^med imi)ending, the suspiMise in which made his sensations, if possible, only the moi-e distress- ful and torturing. It was not enough that liis goods wei'o confiscated and his very clothes stri})- ped off his body, but his savage captors thirsted ■nil. I Of) EARLY MACKINAC. for his blood. They siiici of him and their other prisoners, that they were bein<^ reserved to "make English broth.'' After fonr dtiys of such horrors there came a turn Avhich Henry says gave "a new- color to my lot. " During his residence at the posi b<»foro the massacre, a certain Cliii)pewa Indian named Wawatam, who used to come frequently to his house, had become very friendly and told him that the Great Spirit pointed him out as one to adopt as a brother, and to regard as one of his own family. Suddenly, on the fourth day of his cap- tivity, Wawatam appeaiM>don the scene. Before a council of the chiefs lie asked the release of his brother, the trader, at the same time laying down presents to buy otf whatever claims any may liave thought they had on the prisoner. Wawatam 's request, or demand was granted, and taking Mr. Henry by the hand he led him to his own lodge wdiere he jeceived the utmost kindness. A day or two afterwards, fearing an attack of retaliation by the English, the whole body ol Indians moved from the fort over to our island as a place of greater safely. They landed, three hun- dred and fifty fighting men. Wawatam wr.s among them, with Henry in safe keeping. Scn-eral days had passed, w^iien two large canoc^s from Montreal. with English goods aboard, wei'e seized by th<' Indians. The invoice of goods contained amonjj other things, a large stock of licpior, and soon maci drunkenness prevailed. The watchful and faithful Wawatam told Henry he feared he could not pro tect him when tlie Indians w<M'e in licpior, and besides, as he frankly confessed, ''lie could not \ ALEXANDER HENRY. 2S L their other ed to ' 'make ;uch horrors rave "a new e at the post pewa Indian "requenlly to and told him ut as one to ine of his own Y of his cap- le. Before a -elease of his layini? down ny may liave Wawatam's d taking Mr. is own lodge ss. an attack of lole body ot ovir island as lhI, three hun- ni wT.s among Silver al days om Monti-eal. ,(viz(Hl. by th(^ ained ainonjj land soon mati I and faithful )iild not pro- licinor, and he could not himself resist the temptation of joining his com- rades in the debauch." He therefore took liiiii up the hill and back in the woods, and hid him in a cave, wiiere he was to remain hidden "until the liquor shon.J' be drank." After an uncomfortable and nnrestful night, Henry discovered next morn- ing, to his horror, that he had been lying on a iieap of human bones and skulls. This charnel-hou.se retreat is now the ^vell-known "Skull Cave" of the Island, one of the regular stopping places of the tourists' carriages. But we cannot follow trader Henry's fortunes farther. In a relation between gue.st andi)ri.soner, and generally treated with i-espect, moving with the band from one place to anotJKU', folhnving the occupation of a hunter, and taking up wilh Indian life and almost fascinated by it. he at lengtii tinds him.self at the Sault, Avhere soon an opportunity open(>d for his deliverance and his return home. Subsequently he made another trip to the country of the upper lakes and remained fov a longer time. Of his good friend Wawatam, it is a sad tradition that he afterwards became blind and was accidental- lyburned in his lodge on the island at the Point. formerly known as Ottawa Point, in the village, then as Biddle's, and more recently as Anthony's Point. It may be that some have felt incredulous in respect to Henry's thrilling tale. But there is reason to think it entirely trustworthy. It is con- tained in a book which he wrote, entitled "Travels and Adv(mtures in Canada and the Indian Teri-i- tories. between 1760 and 1700." It was first pub- 24 EARLY MACKINAC. lished in 1808, and is dedicatod to Sir Joseph Banks, ''Baronot of his Majesty's Privy Council and President ot the Ro^^al Society/' Some copiers contain the author's portrait. It has loni^ been out of print, and copies of it to-day are very rare and command a hi,ij;li price. Mr. Henry's residence in his latter years was at Montreal, and he was still living as late as IHll, an old man past eighty years of age, hale and clu^erful looking. He bore a good name and an nnquestioned reputation for veracity among those wlio knew him. I have already named him tlie Herodotus of this particular period of history. By another person, an enthu- siastic English visitor at Mackinac, over sixty years ago, he was called also the Ulysses of these parts; and of his bool<: it was said it bore tlie rela- tion to the Michilimackinac shores and waters which tlie Odyssey does to tlie shores of Sicily.* *The ehronolo^iciil order ia which early travelers iind visitors, who have left any annals of their journeys, cianie to tliis re^Lrioii, may l)e stated as follows: Nieeollet, in lfi31; Manniette, KVri: LM,Salle and Hennepin. Id?.*: T.aPIontau. 108.S; (Jharlevoix. ];21: Alexandcn- lleury. irn-.': Capt. John Carver, 176(5. % sir Joseph ivy C()iin(;il 301110 coi)u^s ^ loii^ boon vojy riiro ''s rosidonco and ho AViis past oighty ^. He boro imtation for in. I hiivo lis part iouhir n, an onthu- ovor sixty ,ses of Ihoso jre Uie re bl- and waters of Sicily.-^ iiiid visitors, who s rcj^'ioii. may l>t' CM: L;i,Siille iuid iind(n- llcury. 17()-'; CHAPTER m. The victory of \]\o Indians over at the old fort on the Sonlluu'ii niainhnid was nothing- beyond a sliocK-inir and alrocions ni-^ssacro. It was ntt(^rly l);u'r<Mi as regards any p(Mm!inont results, and the stains of snpreniacy was not chanf^-f'!!. T1h» stoclc- a;lo had not boon destroyed, and lb-it isli troops soon came and I'osnraod poss(^ssion. SiiV)soqn(Mi11y, liowover. th(; rinostion of transferrin"; th(» militaiy s<nit of the Miohiliniaokinao reii'ion across tho Straits to our island canK^ np. and was duly con- sidei'od. Major Sinolair niad(^ a cai'ofnl prelimi- nary examination. In a letter written in OctoV)er, 1779, lie savs: "I omploved threo davs from sun to sun in oxamininii' the Ishmd of Maclcinac, onwiiich I found i^Teat quantities of excellent oak, elm. beoch and nuqije, with a vein of tli(^ lar.ii"<'st and finest cedar ti"(H>s I cvc'r saw Tl le soil is exceedin.<;-lv fine, with abundance of lim(^ ston( •:■;• •;> rp|^^, situation is r(\s))('ctable, and con veniont foi' a fort." He also mentions that he found on the island "a run of water, sufticient for a saw mill."' Ho submitted drawings and cuts of the island, and plans for fortiiicati(m. to (ion. Ibildimand, the officer in Cfunmand of tho department, and whoso h(\idf(uarters were at Quebec. Th<^ superiority of the island, as a stronii: position aii'aiiist Indian attacks, and Indian throats and insults, was pointed 25 —Igg 26 EARLY MACKINAC. out; also its advanta^jfos in liavinj:: one of tho best harbors in tbo upp<M' country, and as rospocls tlic tisliinj? intorosts likewise. It is tboii^i'lit, too. tiiat 1 lie transfer was somewbat connected, in the Britisb mind, with the American war oL" liie Revo- lution, which was then in pro<jrress. Sinchiir spoke of the "lialnlity of bein<4' attacked by the Rebels," at the old fort, and that tlie phice mi.ii-ht "justly be look(Kl upon as the object of a sc^parato exjx'di- tiou. " As a precautionary nu^asure, he made every ti-ader take oath of alle.e:iance to the kiuf?, and to hold in "detestation and al)horrence the present unnatural and horrid rebellion." At any rate, the f^ariison did not feel safe in a mere stockade of timbci's on the mainland. Gen. Haldimand ac- cord! nirly o-avo orders for the removal. The fol- lo\vin<:^ letter on the subject was wn-itten by him, April 10, 1780, to Major DePeyster, formerly in command of the old Mackinac fort, but w^ho hud been transferred, the year before, to the command at Deti-oit.* "Sir — Havinglon^ thou^^ht it w^ould be expedi- ent to remove the fort, etc., from its present situation to the Island of Michilimaclcinac, and bein.o: encouraged in this undertakin.i? by advauta- jjos enum(U"ated by Lt. Gov. Sincliiir, that must result from it, and the eai'nest desire of the traders. ■■'■Miijor DoPeystor was of Ameru^an birth, and hart served in tho BriUsli army in various parts of this country, besides connnandin^f at Maekinac, and afterwards at Detroit. He held a commission for 7." years, and Uved to the a:-'e of Oi!. He spent his hitter years in Dumfries Seothmd. the early home of his wife. Durinj,' his residenee there, he and the poet Burns were ^reat friends. Burns addressed one of his fugitive poems to DePeyster, RIOMOVAL TO THE ISLAND. 27 of tlio host rospoels tlic loiiji'lit, too. ;cUh1, in tlio of iho Revo- iiichiir spoko the Rebels," ht "justly hv irate exixitli- .e made even- king, and to tlie pr(^sent any rate, the s stockade of iklimand ac- ■al. The fol- tten by him, formerly in but who htul ;he command aid be expedi- its present acldnac, and by advanta- r, that must f the traders. Iv.Kl served in the •s eomnumdinjf at coiuniissiou for 7r" yeiirs in Dmu fries esideuoe there, he Idresse'J one of his I have f]fiven directions that necessary preparations, by collectinc^ materials, (»tc., b<> mud<^ with as much exj)edilion as ])ossible, as the strength of that post will admit of. I am sure it is uniHU'essaiy to recommcMid to you to furnish him (>vei'y assistance ho may re([uire. and tliat Dctj'oit can affoi-d, in foi'- warding this work, farther than by giving you my sanction for the same, which I do in the fullest manner. " A government house and a few other buildings were at once erected on the site of the present village; the old block houses were built, and His Majesty's troops took possessicm on the llJtii of July, 1780, Major Sinclair commanding, though the entire removal was only gradually etfticted. The Indians, as proprietors of the land, had been first consulted about this occupancy, and agreeuKmt and treaty tiu'ins were obtained. The consideration was £5.000. Two deeds were signed, with their mark, by four chiefs, in behalf of themselv(^s and all the Chippewas. On(^ was to be lodged with the Governor of Caiuida. and one to remain at the island t)ost; while the chiefs engaged to preserve in their villages a belt of wampum seven feet long, to be a memorial of the ti'ans- action. But it seems that aft(U' the woi'k was under way and the ])ost established, the Indians showed discontent, and threatened the ti'oops; and so serious was the hostility manifested, that Sinclair sent in great haste to Detroit for cannon. The vessel was back in eight da3^s, bringing the guns, and as soon as she touched on the harbor she fired a salute, and that "speaking out" by the 'n ,a, 2 :■$■ u-f^^^p^S^^^^X. f. M 28 EARrA' MACKINAC. cannon's month at onco sottlod Iho (luostiou, and the poor Indians had no more to say. The old site bein^" abandoiiod (sinco wlion it is often referred to as "Old Maclcinaw." ) and tlie ^ari'ison remov(Hl, the families of the little settle- ment, could not do otherwise than follow the fort. Many of the houses were taken down and trans- ported piecemeal across the sti'aits, and set np a.ii'ain as new homes on the island. And hai'dly wei-e the settlers thus re-established before they address(Hl a iielition to the c^overninent, asking for remmie ration to compensate for the loss and ex- pense incurred, on the ^ronnd that their removal was in the interest of the State and th»^ public wel- fare. What response was made to this petition I have found no record which tells. The first commandant of the island, Major Sinclair, was also known as Lieutenant Governor. It appears that he had been appointed inspector and superintendent of the Eng"lish forts, and boro some g-eneral civic position as repi'esent alive of the government, besid(\s his militai-y rank; also as having chai-ge of Indian affaii-s. Hence he is fre- quently spoken of in the records as Gov. Sinclair, as well as Major. It seems to have been on this ac- count, as an officer with a more embracing scope, ratlun* than as of higher military rank, that h(^ superseded Major DePeyster, in command at old Maclicinac. in 1779. After the trans! er he remain- e<l two years in charge of tlie new post. Sinclair appears, from the style of his letters and reports, n more cultured and better educated nnxn than som(> of his cotemporaries among the officers of thai CAPTAIN KOHi:UTSON. 29 luoslion. aiul CO vvlK^n it is i',"' ) and tlic little settle- low the fort, ni Jind tvaiis- , and set up And hardly . before they at. ask in. 2: for loss and ex- ;h«^ir removal lie public wel- his petition 1 island, Major nt Governor, ted inspector |rts, and boro •esent alive of rank; also as ce he is fre- v. Sinclair, as on this ac- 'acing scope, ank, that h(^ mand at old r he remain- )st. Sinclair |ind reports, a n than some cers of thai period. But liis sei'vicos as a post commandant and gcniM'al maiuinci" of affairs, seem to jiav(» b»'on unsai isfactorv. b<'cause of his la\ish cxiMMuliturcvs and becausi' of "abuses and noglocts in diffci'ciit slia[»c>. " as it \vas said. He Avas continually being cautioned from licadcpiartors in regard to hi^■. financial tfansactions. For lialf a centui'y and m()i'(>. after h«» left the ]>ns1, t!u^ inlialjitants con- 1inu('(l i() talk al)()ul liis (wti'avagaiice; and one of till! st()i'i(\s long current on tht^ island, was that he had i)aid at the rati.* f)f one dollar ])er stump for clearing a eedar swamp in tlie government tields at the w<^st (Mid of tlie village. It subsequently a"pp(\n's that, on his return to England, this reclv- lessni^ss in (expenditure while on the ishmd led I0 his imprisonment for debt. He sp(e*iks himself, in one of his letters, of being "liberated upon paying the Michilimakinac bills protested." Major, or Governoi*, Sinclair was succeeded by Captain Daniel Rob<>rtson, who seems tohav(3 been in command from 17b'2 to IT^^T. This Robc^rtson is also called Robinson, and is tlie one whose name will probal)ly be always associated with the island, and a figure mark in the guide books and the traditiomiry stories — for when will "Robinson's Folly" cease to be visited and talked about? The ofticial annals of that time shov/ a great many of Captain Robinson's letters, written while he was commandant of the post, He seems to have been a rough-and-ready, energetic officer; not very elegant in his style of composition or his 6rthogra- phy. prosaic and practical, and perhaps not quite fulfilling the sentimental and romantic ideal which ss 30 EARLY MACKINAC. somp of the leii-onds and storios, connoclhiir lii-. namo \\\\]i tin- •"Kolly."' would su.n-ii<^st. In ono oi' his reports oi' lliis rinn\ a vrry ivood ])lat is ii-i\(Mi, ^li()\vin,ii" llio contour of liio isiand I'.iui llu^ location oi" tli(^ I'oi't. and tlic ]iai-l)or hcai'iuj:^ lln* name. "1 laldiinaud's I'.ay."" nauuHl. pfivsiiinahly. in lionor of llic ^Lnii•li^il coiuukuuUm' of tlic province."' In ;'. lott(M' of Api'ii, IT^;'), tlu» C*ap'ain commends the clinuite of rvhu'k'iiuic as --prid'tM-ahlo to any in Ciinada. and very liealt liy :'* hut he says *-it is an e\pensi\(' ])lact\" llt> tells in 17>1 of tin* whai'l' b(>in,i;" ItfoK'iMi 'o piiH-es hy tin. ice. so that no K'ind i4' cral'l could he loaded or nnloaxUnh but that he sot men to work and liot it in r«'paii-. He acUls: "It^ was a veiT troublesome Jol)." He wants to k'lnnv. lie says, in one of his IcMlers, wluM her or not he is to "iKiveany rnui:"aiul aii'ain lie says, ht^ is at a loss to know how lie is to [ici at this ])()st without that rKpior, and he is sorry lu^ is ••obliiz-od to criime and borrow rum I'vom traders on account of ( JovernnuMit. " Al anotliei" time he wi'ites. "I have had no rum this season, and you Know it. is th(^ Indian's (lod. " Ami yet aiiain \\o ])oui's forth his complaint: "Kuni is v<M'y much want«Hl hor*^ for \arious ])ur]n)ses. ])articularly for Indians, and i ha\e had only seven barr»>ls this IweK*^ Uionth."' However, it is but dui^ to tli(» Captain to say thai. unft)rtiinat«dy. he was not alotie in this o})inion of the iudisp(Misal)leness of riuii in tlu' re- lations of the wiiiles and the inilitarv with the *'rii(> iKUiu' w as fvidiMillv t-'ivi'ii >i|r t'ti'f ilu- Uiiusd chiuiircd iisllat: In Ihf cai'ly »la,vs, s\iiiNciun.'ut. il \v:'.> luimliarlv tlesi^'Mutod hy tlio island pL'Dplu us "The Humu. ' 1? THK FOKT (;RATn\\LLY Bril.T. 31 t. In oiH^ oi' ilal is ii-'iV(Mi, \\\o location [V lln» n:iiiK\ l)ly. in lionor viiKT.'"' Jn a i)iiinu'U(ls tlu^ o to any in ays '-il is an of tlio wliai'L" tlnit no Isind . bnl tlial he ir. 1I(> adds: Ho wan is 1(^ kvluM luM' OI" not \o says, lii^ is at this post i^ is •"ohiiizod s on account li(^ writes, "l »n Iviiow it is ^ poui's f'oiMli ^\•anttHl liore Indians, and t'l\ c niont li." iptain to say one in tliis 111 in tlie re- rv with tlic- Indians, 'Wc' find Major Sinclair, his predecessor, lis commandant of tln^ foiM. Avi'itin.ir to general Haldimaiid in 17S1. as follows: *"Tho Indians can- not \)o dc)»riv«Hl of neai'ly their usual fpiantity of rum. liow(n(»r Icstrnctivc^ it is. witliout creatin,2: much discontent." TIum'c^ is ii sad vein ruiniing tlironuli all this (\irly liistory. made by rum; first as one of the ii'ovei-nment suppli«'s to the Indians, and next as an ai'ticle of traffic. Th»* p«H)r rec' ni<Mi facetiously calUn^ it "'The EuL-'lisli Milk;*' bi j tlieii- moi'e st'i'ious name for it \vas llie truer on(.', '"Fii'e water."* Robertson. (Robinson^ was in conimand from 17'^- to 17S7. Tiiere ai'(> intimations of bis havinir been di.sapiu'oved at (ieii, Haldimand's head- quai'tei's. Cai)tain SccMt succee(hMl liim — "sent in tlie I'oom of Robertson," as tlii^ I'ecoi'd reads. It is repoi'ied of Scot t. tlia.t '"lie ii*a.ine<l infinite civtlit at Mackinac but. poor f(dlow, his po( 'a't had paid foiit." He was folio W(^d by Captain Doyle, who Seems to havt^ remained in commaiul of tlie i»ost nntil its deliv«M-y to the United States. The f(n't was not built com]>let(^ at onc<'. but g'raxhially took on its dimensions and its streiiirlh. In 17^*.t, aftei' an inspection by the Kn?.'ineei-'s BepaiM mem. t he I'ortiticatiims. as oi-i,<rinally desii^-n- ed. were reported as beini:- only in ]>art executed, and tliat the woru had b(>en discontinued foi* some clKiniriMi iis Hilt: |;i;cil I'v llu- islauU *n. M. Hol'iiisoii in liis iiiMMfiiiii!,' hook. -Thi* Crin-al Kur I..n«l." descriptivf of tlif ri'trioiis of tlit> Uiulson s Hay ( 'oiupaiiv. -vavs of thtr Jmlian's liijuoi'. ■It. iiiiisi Itc siron^r <'iioii;-'h lo lti> iuHaiuiual. e for he fclwavN icsis ii by iioiiriii;-' a Icsv tlrops in t lie tin- " ••'rill- fiTi'.'is of artltni Njiiiiis in Uu" lo^l^M^ arc t'ljuai lo the appear- anor of a trrizzly boar anioufsl Ihvm. -Schoolcm ft. ■*•— r-"~7 Uflt rvmiu'TiiimiifinfTr ssss 32 EAKI.Y MACKINAC. years, and lliat in tlu' iiiraii lime a sIioug- pickol- \]]iX had l)i'<Mi creeled afouiid the iiiilini:>lied \v:n"l\:-. And 'ciii-ain, as liO.o as ]7'Ji'. the phiiis wiM'e i-eporinl ii8 not .yet finished; the ol'tieers" sloiie ([uarlers were only about half e.>in])lei(>d; tlie \\alls Avei'i^ up th* full h(Mii']d and th<' window tVanit's in. hut 1 he root and Jloors wantin.ii". (Shafp erilieisni was niad<>. too, hy ihe oftieer then inspect inu'. on tiie wliol< desi.iz'ii ol' tlie t'oiM.) And yet, aizain, in ITHo, th-' commandant. C'a[>lain Doyle, writes eone<'rniii,L;- 1 h- "rninons stale of t Ik,' i'ort. " but says he purposed "sondiiii.;' to the saw mill h»r phitd\s. and wouM give the I)aiTael\S a llioronL:h repaii', having;' re- coi\ed or(h'rs from His Kxeoilency. Maj. Oen. Clarke, to thai ])iir[)e>,'>-" .'so ask-ini;- i'or ••an enii'ineer and -ome artitic( ■ > i > render Ili«' misera- ble fort re. -s in some de.ii'rec^ tenal)le "' It is not a fort of to-day's eonsti'uction. It is a militai'y strnetui'iM)!' a eenlury ag^o, a meiiKMito of the past, and J'eplele in hi.sioi'ie remini.secniee. As a fort iticat ion. it is ii curious mixture of Ameri- can from ier post and old-world castle. Its thick walls and sally-ports, and bastions and ditch. alon.i;' with its old block-houses of lo;-;s. loo[»-holed for niusK'etry; its slopin.n' path dow»' ''• the villajiO str(M>t, buttrtv^sed aloni;' tlu^ hill ■ h' v, i!h In^avy niasonrv. al)o\c which li'i'ow ii'ras,^ , ::.'' ciMlars nn to the foot oL" the overlookinu^ old **)• 'ce-"s cpiar- \oi's' — all this mak'<'S il astriicinii' and plclures;iuc object, a sort of mounlaln I'orlress, and cerlaiiily SQUiethin.ij^ uni(pH> in this country. iIsImhI \v:n'k;^. were rt'])Ol'ti'd (|n;irU'rs wrw^. ; AVtM-O li[) tin I. liiit llu' roof >iii Nvas uiadc oil tin' wliol*' 1, ill 17*.>:'., tli'« concern iiigMlir s lu' purposoil vS. iiiul wouM 111'. liiiN'ini;' re- ic'v. Maj. r.cn. skin.ii: J'oi' ••an liT tluj luisora- riK'lion. 11 '> (), ;i nionionld [ r(Mnini.sc(MU'<\ lure of Aniori- lie. Its Ih'K'k |)ns and ditcli. us, l()0[>-holo'l ■, I.' the villaii'O r V ini lu^avy ■ ' (MMlai-s lit) ,:■ \-o '"s fpiar- jUl pirtlllVStllK' iiiul coi'Uiinly <0 ,' c ?^a"i ii im ' i,."^'"r»i»u i i » i i' ' I ' lu rii l ij^i ii^i ■ i ii ' i i.ii ^i •• . i ■ 'h i gi^iY, iT .i'fet>a^^SS I CHAPTER IV. Althoug-li the war of the Revolution had been fougljt, unci American independence acknowledged; and the Treaty of Paris in 1783 had secured all this upper lake country on the same boundary lines as Ave have them to-day, yet it was thirteen years afterwards before the American Hag floated over the island fort. It was the same also in respect to four or live other posts which were situated on the American side of the lakes. Washington, then President, sent Baron Steuben to Gen. Haldimand, commissioned to receive tliem; but Haldimand re- plied he had no instructions from his government to make the delivery, and that he could not even discuss the subject. The Government, too, by John Adams, our minister to England, had insisted on the same, but witliout effect. England urged in explanation of her course, tliat it was due to an imperfect fulfil Iment on our side of some of the treaty stipulations. It required another treaty (this matter, however, being only one of many points embraced in it) before the tardy transfer of these stations on the conlines was eff<*cted. It was then agreed that on June 1st, 3700, they should be evacuated by the English. Owing to delays on the part of Congress, our occupation of the posts was d«>ferred beyond that date. As Washington said in his address to Congress, December, 1796: 34 EARLY MACKINAC. "Tlio jiLM'iod (iiu'iiig Iho lute session, at wliieli llio appropriation was passed for carrying into elLct tlie treaty of amity, commerce and navigation, In^. tween the United States and His Britannic Majesty, necessarily procrastinated the recei)tion of tin; posts stipulated to be delivered, beyond the dale assigned for that event." He adds: "As soon. however, as the Governor General of Canada could be addressed with propriety on the subject, arrangements were cordially and prouiptly con- cluded for tlieir evacuation, and the United Stal("> took possession of them, comprehending Oswoiid, Niagara, Detroit, Michilimackinac and Ft. Miami."'' In the case of Fort Mackinac, it was not until October 2nd, of that year, that the actual transi'i'i was made. But, besid(^s negotiating with the Euglisli ii the recovery of Mackinac, the American govriii numt had to deal with another class of proprietor^ — the original possessors of the soil. Accordingly, while the delivery of tlie island and post was stiL ixmding, Chrn. Waynes ti-eaty with the Indians (Treaty of Greenville) was made in August, 171'.'^ by which "a tract of land was ceded on the main to the north of the island on w^hich the post o Micliilimackinac stands, to measure six miles v Lakes Huron and Micliigan, and to extend tln-( miles back from the w^aters of the lake on t! strait." t Boi.s Blanc, or White Wood Island, w: also ceded as the voluntary gift of the Ghippe^\ ;i The Indians were to receive ^1^8,000 annually, besidt J?2().000 then distributed. ♦Amerloau Statu Piipers. 1Holmei^' Amcrlcuu Annuls, Vol 2. v ^ REPAIRS ORDERED. 35 vt which Iho icr into etTccl vi gat ion, hiv LuucMiijesty. ption of 11 10 'ond the clai»' s: "As soon. a of Ciuiiula 1 the subj'H't, )roiiiplly con- United Stuu^ idiuJ^' Os\V(>iic>. (iFt. Miami." ■■• was not uiiii victual transfer tlio English ii icrican govoni of proprietor^ Accordinii'ly, post was stil Lh the Indians 1 August, I'*-''' d on the nraiu ich the post o. re six miles o; to extend thrr lie lake on t' 'ood Island, av; the GhippcAwi^ .vnnLially,besi<K lu Auaals, Vol. 2. V Perhaps the iinlinislied state of the ])ost, as reported in 1792, and 11 le complaint made of its condition in 1793, and its sore need of repairs, (referred to above), may be explained on the ground that the English authorities, well knowing it was within American lines, and apprehending that it must soon pass out of their control, deemed it unwise to incur any large expenditure on it. In fact, we tind Captain Robertson saying in a letter, as early as 1784, that in compliance with ord(}rs he had receiv(xl, no more labor was given to a post which by treaty had been ceded c<> the Americans, than was necessary to '■command some resi)ect for the safety of the garrison and traders, surrounded as I am by a great number of Indians not in the best humor. '' It is probablo, therefore, that wluni at length it came into our liands it was in need of considerable attention, for we tind Washing- ton, in the same address to Congress just quoted from, saying of these x^osts that "such repairs and additions had been ordered as appeai'cd indis]-)en- sable."* It is also probable that the American foi'ce sent to occupy the post at tlu^ dispart ure of the British soldiers was quite imposing, as we have Timothy Pickering, Washington's Secretary of War, in his report of February, 179(3, saying: "To appear respectable in the eyes of our Ih-itish neiglibors, the force with which we tak(» possession of th(^se posts should not be mah^rially less than that with Avliich they now occ'upy tlieni. This measure," he adds, "is also important in relation to the Indians, on wliom first impn.'ssions may have very beneticial (Mfects. " * Accoi'dingly, the "•AnieiiiMu Sill', e i'upers, ';:*y 86 KAKLY MACKINAC. first detachment to occupy Mcickinac, as an Ameri- can garrison, consisted of four officers, one com- pany of Artillery and Engineers, and one company of Infantry, Major Henry Burback being in com- mand of the wliole force. The British retired to the ishmd of St. Joseph, on the Canada side a little Tobove Detour, and established a fort there. Following the change of flag and sovereignty, nothing very stiri-ing seems to have developed in the island history during the years immediately succeeding. It soon became, however, a great commercial seat and emporium in the wilderness, The chief commodity was furs. Prom an early day this had been a business carried on by the individual tradei'S who went among the Indians. Later many of those engaged in it combined, and about 1787 formed the famous "Northwest Com- pany. "' which became a most powerful organization, and which "held a lordly swa}^ over the wintiy lakes and boundless forests of the Canadas, almost equal to that of the East India Company over the realms of the Orient." Its headquarters w^as Fori William, on Lake Superior, and the fields of operation lay principally in far northern latitudes. The success of this company led to similar enter- jiriscs in the territory lying south and west, with our island as the head-center. There w^as a "Mackinaw Company," and a "Southwestern Company," which, uniting under John Jacob Astor, became the "American Fur Company." This, together wnth other lines of traffic which it stimu- lated, made the island for many yeai-s a great com- mercial seat. It is reported, for instance, for the WASHINGTON IKVTNG'S SKKTCII. 37 ;, as an Amori- ;ers, one coni- 1 one company being in com- lish retired to ida side a littlf ; there. d sovereignty, 3 developed in •s immediately 7ever. a great he -wilderness. H'rom an early ied on by the ig the Indians, combined, and orthwest Com- 1 organization, er the wintiy [anadas, almost pany over the Irters was Foil the fields of tiern latitudes, similar enter- ,nd west, with There was u Southwestern m Jacob Astor, pany." This, hich it stimiv a great com- tance, for the year 1804, that the goods entered at the Mackinac Custom House yielded a revenue to the United States of about ^5^00,000. Wliile at this time our island ^vas United States territory, and the fort with its ever floating Hag was a vi.sible token of its Americanism; the village^ as a whole, with its Indian and French i)opulation and its style of construction — much of its archi- tecture being a kind of cross betvvetm the white settler's hut and the Indian's birch bark lodge — perhaps did not appear so characteristically American. Let us look at its jiicture as drawn by Wa.shington Irving in his "Astoria. " Itis Mackinac as seen in 1810. He is de.scribing an expedition under way for the far northwest and the head waters of the Missouri, in tlie interest of Mr. Aster's enterprises. The party had fitted out in Montreal, under Wilson P. Hunt, of New Jersey; and in one of the large canoes, tliirty or forty feet long, universally used in those days in the schemes of commerce, had slowly made their way up the Ottawa river, and by the old route of the fur traders along a succession of small lak'os and rivers, to our island. Here the party remained about three weeks, having stopped for the purpose of taking on more goods and to engage more recruits. Irving tlius describes the place: "It was not until the 22nd of July that they arrived at Mackinaw, situated on the island of the same name, at the confluence of Lakes Huron and Michigan. This famous old French trading post continued to be a rallying point for a multifarious and motley population. The inhabitants were 88 EAKI.Y MACKINAC. amphibious in thoir luibils, most of them bein<? or having boon voydgriirs or (•ano(vmon. It was thf g:reat i)lac!e ot arriviil and tloparture of the soutli wost fur tra(l(!. H(M-e tlie Mackinaw Company had ostablisliod its prinoijial ]V)st, from \vh(^iice it com- mmiicatod witli Iho intoiior aisd witli Montroal. Honce its various ti'adors and trapp<>rs sot out for their rospoctivo dosti nations about Lake Superioi- and its tributary wjitors, or for the Mississippi, the Arkansas, tiio Missouii. and the other ro.s^ions of the wost. Hero, aft(>r tlie absence of a year oi- more, thoy retui'nod with thoir i)eltries, and settled their accounts; the fui's rendered in by them beini;' transmitted, in canoes, fi'om iience to Montreal. Mackinaw was, therefore, for a great j^art of tlie year, very scantily peopled; but at certain seasons, the tradiM's ari'ivod from all ]KMn1s, with their crcnvs of voyage ar.^, and tlio place swarmed like a hive. "Mackinaw, at that time, was a mere villago. stretching along a small bay, with a fine broad b(^acli in front of its principal row of: houses, and dominated by the old fort, which crowned an impending height. The beach was a kind of pul)- lic promenade, whore wore disphiyod all tlio vagaries of a seaport on the arrival of a Hoot- from a long cruise. Here roiidgevrs fi'olickod away their w^ages, fiddling and dancing in the booths and cabins, buying all kinds of knick-knacks, dressing thomsidvos out finely, and parading up and down, like arrant braggarts and coxcombs, Sometimes thoy nu^t with rival coxcombs in tlio young Indians from the opposite shore, who would WASHINGTON IRVING S SKETCH. 39 iiem hoAwfJ!: or , It was tli«' of the south Company luul rlunice it com- ith Montreal, rs set out foi" Liiike Superior o, Mississippi. other re.iJ^ious e of a year of ies, aud settkul by them beiiiii' e to Montreal, sat part of tlic ;ertaiii seasons. ^1s, ^vith their warmed like a mere villajxe. a fine broad )C 1 louses, and 1 crownod an I kind of pul)- layed all tin' )f a lleet from 'o licked a^vay n the bootlis knick-knacks, parading np id coxcomi)s. combs in the •t\ wlio would appear on tlie l)each, paintf^d and decorated in fantastic st y]<', and would saunter up aiul down, to be gazed at and admired, perfectly satisfied that they ecli2)sed their pale-faced competitor's. "Now and tluMi a chance party of 'North, westers' appc^ared at Maclcinaw from the r<'ndez- vous at Fort William. These held themselves up as the chivahy of the fur trade. They WMn-e men of iron, proof against cold weather, hard fare, and perils of all kinds. Some would wear the north- west button, and a formidable dirk, and assume something of a military air. They generally wore feathcn'S in their hats, and affected the 'brave.' *Jo suis VII homiiie dii tiord!" — 'I am a man of the north. ' one of these swelling f(^llows would exclaim, sticking his arms akimbo and laiffling by the South- westers, whom he regarded wilh great contempt. as men softcmed by mild climates and the luxurious fare of brcnid and bacon, and whom he stigmatized "WitVi the vain-glorious name of 'pork eaters.' * * The little cabarets and sutlers' shops along the bay resounded with the scraping of fiddles, with snatches of old French songs, with Indian whooj)s and v<41s." But the reader must not tliink th(ue was no Other side to the social life of the eai'ly IVFackinac of that jwriod. Irving's i)icture is only that of the wharves, and the floating population, such as th<' manager of a water expedition, stopping over but a little while, would be the m<'-t likely to see. Although the Resident population vvas very small, there were, at the same time, the families of settled homes, and with the social interests and 40 EARLY MACKINAC. sympathies and plotisuros common to -,moricaii village lifo — subj(H:;t of coin-so to many iiiconvon icucos and privations incident io tlieli* rcmotonos.s ilia wild(»nicss world. I find a ])l('asi!i.i^ dcscrip lion -written by a lady, who was taken to tlKMsland when a child, in tho year 1S12, just l)of(n"o tlic war oi)Gnedand who spent tho yoarsof lu^r girlhood there* The houses of the village at that time, she says, were few. quaint and old. Every house liad its garden enclosed with cedar pick(^ts. These wero kept whitewashed, as also the dwellings and tlic fort. There were but two sti'oets in the village. One ran from point to point of the crescent harbor, and as near the water's edge as the beach would permit — tho iiebbles forming a border between the water and the road. (It will be remembei-ed thiit the water's edge in earlier years was considerably more inland than now.) A foot 2">ath in the middlt^ was all that was needed, as th' wei-e no vehicles of any di^scription, except d(,^ ^ains or sleds in the winter. There wei-e no schools, no physician. and no resident minister oC religion. Occasionally a priest would come on visitation to the Catholic flock. In winter the isolation was complete. Navigation closed usually by the middle of Octobei'. and about eight months were passed in seclusion from the outer world. The mail came once a month "when it did not miss." There were no amuse- ments other than parties. The children, however, ♦Mrs. n. S. Tliiird, who published her Rerainisconoes iu u On'on Iliiv Newspaper, 1882, and found iu the ' Wisconsin Historical Collections. ' Vol. 0. ~^ to -imorlcan uy inconv<»n r roiiioloncss Lsiii.i^ dcsci'ip- L to tlKM'sland t bef<jro till' f lior f^^ii'lliood Kit timo, she •y honso liad Those woi'o in^s and tlic tlio villai2:(>. scont harboi'. beach would • between tlip ^nibe]-ed that considerably in the middle^ 3 no veliicles 5 or sleds in lo physician. Occasionally the Catholic IS complete, e of Octobei-. in seclusion once a month '6 no amnse- en, however, >s in a Orcon Dnv ;ical CoUectious. ' "'*^ ^ = i^. ^ cl 7 r- ANOTHER 7:ARLY DESCRIPTION. 41 ■wi 7. s E mado liousos in tlie snow drifts, and (^oiisted do^m liill. Spring always came late, and as it was tlif* ( u>toni to ol)soi*vf3 May diay ihoy ofton jtlanN'd the May })ol(»on thnicrv Once slio n»o>]'ds, for Ihc'-'lh < r May, "Ico in tlio Basin li-ood."" Siio relates t'.iat ill the autumn of lSf!3, the ice formed verv erirly, hut owiMiif to ]\'\ixh "winds and a sti"on<^ c ■ it would 1)rcak n[) over and over, and betos>-tM. loand fro, unlil il was piled to a great height in clear, towering blue masses; and all tliat met the eve acioss to the opposite island ^vere beautiful nioimtains of ic(\ The soldiei-s and tishevmcn cut a load tln-(niirh. This made a Avint(M''shiu:h wav for the dog sl<»ds, tJM^. ]»assage \vinding between high walls oL ic(\ Avith nothing 1o be s«'en but the sky above. Again, in oilier seasons, the ice Avould be perfectly smooth. The (wci ling times on the Island, she says, were when Le Caneau (hi Nordvxwn^. As tlio canoes neai-ed the town there 'wonld come fionting on the air the fai'-fanied Camidian boat -Song. The voi/fnitnrx landing, the Indians would Soon follow and the lit tie island s<MMned to overllow ^nih lit; man life. These exciting times would last -for six or eight weelcs. "Then would follow the fini<M. uneventful, and to some, di-(;ary days, yet to niosl, days that passed happily.'' % CHAPTER V Tho year l^ltl bi-ought our socond war with tho mollier country. In it our little ishind playtnl apart, and indeed it may bo said to have "opened tlio ball." Tlie veiy first scene of tiie war was enact(>d here. The two governnuMits had been niKHM* sti'ained relations for some time befoi-e, and on the ji'ili of June, of that year, the state of war was (l"c!are(l ])y President Madison. It was a nivsterv at tlie 1iin<>. and sonielliinc^ wiiicli excited chunor and, in tlie frenzy of the liour, e\'en insinu- ations of treac-liery airainst hi^di otticials at Wasii- iu'^ton, tliiit tlie Enii"lisii commanders iu Canada, knew tlie fact so much in advance of our own. One ex[danation is tliat our wvy delibcrjiio 8eci*(^- lary of War trusted to tlie oi-dinary postal niediuni in connnnnicalin.ii: witli tln^ frontier troo[»s, wliile the ai»'ents of the En.y'rish <^overnnient sent the ncnvs l)y sjiecial messenufcn's. Genei-al Hull, com- mander of the depai'tment of MichiLfan, said li(» diil not i'e<civ(( information of the fact until fourteen days after wai- was declared; whih^ General Jiroitk, the British cominan(h*r o])posit<\ lunl oilicial k'no\vled«.je of it four or five days sooner. And lik'ewise Li(Hitenant llank.s, of our island post, was in ]>lissfiil ii^-norance (d' the fact, until In? saw the Hritish cannon planted in his rear, just foui' week-> alter war liad beeu determinc.'d upon. 42 TllK VUIVV srUPUISED 4;^ war with lul play«'(l ^ "opened ) w;ir was Lad l)t'<Mi 'fore, aiul ito (jf var ll was a eh ox('ite«l r«'u iiisiiiu- at Wiisli- lii CaiKida ' oiir own. al iiK'diuni Dps, A\llili' \) sent, llic IIlllI, COlll- saivl ho. dill il l'(»iirt<M'ii M-Jil l»r(H-k, ad otticial )i)(M'. And 1 posi, wa> lO KHW IIk' four weeks * ■'5 Tho P]n^-li.s]i officer, Captain Robei-is, com- mandin.i^ at the Island of St. Joseph, on the neni--hy Canada horde !•. had received orders iniinediatel^" to undertake tlie capture of the strateiiic point of Mack'ina(;. Ho *^at]i(M-ed a force, consislin.i^ of Canadian militia (the En<]:lis]i Piif Co's voiinnnirA and other eni[>k)yees), and a lai'.n'e nuiuhcr of In- dians. b('sid«'s havin.iT the rei,ndar snldiei'S of tlio ^'ari'ison. Tlie expedition was admirably niana.ired. An ojx'n attack in front would have been iinpossil)le of succ(»ss. So. secr(Mly sailini:: fi-oni St. Jos<>])li, they landed, nnperceivod, on tiic iior1h\V(»st side of th(5 island, at )) o'clock in the iiiorniiiLi', on the spot k'nown ever since as "Hritisli Landing'. *' The troops had an unobstructed march across the island and were soon in ])osition witli tlicir cannon on the hin'iier irround coinm;'.ndin<:' \\u\ fo!'t ill tlie I'ear, the Indian allies estjiblishing themselves in tli<» woods on either jl.iidc. The Anieri(;an commandant and his little hand- ful of nifii tJH'n learned, at th(^ sam<j monnMil, the two facts, that the Unitrd States and ( J reat Hritain w< !•(» at war. and 1liat the surrt'iidej' of l^'ort Maikiuac was d(Mnandt»d. Resistance was im];')s- siblc, and thus ai'.ain the lla-r was raised over its Avails that had lirst lloateii ihero. I^othier, an Jiii-ent of ihe No]*thwest Fur Com])any. who ac c(»mpanied the e\])edition and C()Minninded a ])a!l of tiie force, thus laconically re])orted it to Sir Ceo. I'l'evort: "The Indian traders arrived at St. Jos»'])h witli a numberof their men, so th;it we wcii' now eiial)l«»d to form a force of about t vo liun(lr<'d and thirty Canadians and threo hundred and \\ 44 EARLY MACKINAC. twenty Indians, exclusivo of the *];arrison. Willi that force wo loft St. Joseph on tlie l()lh, at eleven o'clock A. M., landed at Michilimackinac at thrci^ o'clock ih(Mu^xt morninfr, sranmonod the garrison 1o sui'i'cnder at nine o'cl(^(;k', and marched in at eleven" — just Iwent y-four hours after set1in<? forth on then* hostile ei*rand. He adds fnrther, that there were bet we(Mi two and thrc^e hundred other Indian warriors who had expected to join the ex- pedition, but failed: that two days after the capitu- lation, they cani(\ But he intimates that this baud was in an undecided state of mind and pai'tly inclin- ed to favor the AmiMMcans. Captain Roberts, in his i-eport to General Bro('k, dated the day of the capture (July ITtli). says: 'We enibai-ked with two of the six poundeis and every num I could muster, and at ten o'clock we wei'o under weigh. Ari'ived at three o'clock A. M. One of those unwieldy guns was brought up with much dilticulty to the heights above the fort and in readiness to open about ten o'clock', at which time a summons was sent in and a capitula- tion soon after agreed on. T took immediaM^ possession of tlu^ ff)i't and displayed the Ih'itisli colors." As pr(\senting an Amei-lcan account of tlio surprise and capture, the otticial report of Lieui. Hanks is herewith given. It was made to (Jen. Hull, his comma)idin,<:: otlic-er. and was issued from Detroit, whithei- the ot"iicers and men of the ca})- tured garrison had been sent on parole: LIEUT. HANKS' KEPORT. 45 ison. Willi h, at elovcn lac at thi'<'o lie jrarrison .relied in. at iotlinp: forth Lii'llier, thai 11(1 nnl oIluT join the ox- r tlin c'jipilii- lat this bjind )artly incliii- to Gonoral (July 17th). six pounders ton o'clock iree o'clock rvas broiiuiit ,s above the L o'clock, at a capitula- iuiniodiaic the TJritish ouut of thf I't of Li(Mil. ado to Clou. issued from of the cap- "Detuott, Auixust 12th, 1>^V2. "Sii:: — I talvo th(^ earliest opportunity to ac- quaint Yonr Excellency of the surriMidor of the irai'rison of Michiliinack'inac, under my command, to His Britannic Majesty's forces. und<n' the com- uiaihl of Captain Charh^s Roberts, on the 17th ultimo, the particulars of which are as follows: On the ir)th, I was informed by th(5 Indian int^n-pro- lefthat he had discovered from an Indian, that the several nations of Indians then at St. Jos(»ph (a British garrison, distant about forty miles) intend- ed to mak(? an immediate attack on Michiliniack- inac. * * * 'I immediately called a ra(»eting of the Ameri- can i2:ont lemon at that time on the island, in which it was thoui^ht proiun* to dispatch a contidential [)ei'son to St. Joseph, to watch the motions of the Indians. "Captain Micha«d Doiisman, of the militia, was lhou,n"ht the most suitable for this service. He embarked about sunset, and mot the British forces within ten or tifto(ni miles of the island, by whom he was made prisoner and put on his parole of honor. He was landed on the island at daybreak, with positive directions to ii:iv(» m(> no intolliiji'enco whatever. Ho was also instructed to take the in- habitants of the villa.L^e, indisci'iminatoly. toaplaco on the W(»st side of the island, when; tlKur persons and proi)erty should b*^ i)rotoct(Ml by a, British j^Miard, but should thc^y ixn to the fort, Wioy would b(» subject to a g(meral massaci'o by the savaires, whicli would bo inevitable if the L'^arrison tired a 40 EAKIA' MACKINAC. gun. Til is information I ivcumvccI from Dr. Day. • who was passin.jjf throuii-li tli(^ villa.irn wh(»n ovcrv person Avas tlyinj? for rcfug-o to Uk^ on(Miiy. I iniinoiliately, on Ix'ing inforuied of Ibo approiicli of llioonomy. placed ninniiinilion, etc., in lh(i blmk lionsos; orden'd every liMui charirod, and nindf o\('!-y pi'(^p;ira1ion for cWtion. About nine o'clock I could discover that tin* enemy were in possession of the liei,ii:lits tha.t commiinded th(^ fort, Jifid one piece of tlieirartilbny directed to the most defense^- less pai't of till* j'-Jirrison. Th(» Indians at tliis tiiiio ■wen^ to be S(»en in ^'reat numb(»rs in the edsre of the woods. "Al lialf 'past eleveu o'clock tlie enemy sent in a ila*i: of ti'uce demandinnf a surrender of the fort and islaud to ills I>ritaniiic Maieslv's forces.! This. Sir, was the tirst infoi'mation I had of Ili<' declaration of war. I. liowevei', had anticipatcnl it. and was as well prepared to me(4 such an event as I possil)ly could luive been with tiie force midcr my connnand, amountiiii^ to tifty-seveii etf(»c1i\e ni(m, includin.ij: olticers. Thi'ee American g(ml leg- men, who wej-e prisoners, W(»re pin'mitted to ac company the lla,Lr. Prom them I ascertaintMl the strenn'th of tin* enemy U) Ix; from nim3 Imndred tn *'riu' Post, siir(-'i'iiii. + .\.s to tin* (lilTt'reui't! in xlw hour wliirli iippoiirs in Hk'so tlun ofllciiil stiiiciiifiils. it, is i)ri)l»iil)le Ciifli writer hud in iniiul sifur (hlTiTfnt sliD^'t' ul' th<^ t'vi-nt. Tiif qufsiion of tin- suin'iult-r of i:!' isluiitl liiul its prcliiiiiaiiry siuu'i" ill ;in riirliiT hour in the iMoniiii;,' ill. i li'' old dlsiiilcry ill llio wi-sicin riid of Ihc vilhi^rc, hci ween so if df Hrili>h ollii-crs imd I't-iUiin of liic cKi/ciis. while Uie forniiil deniiiiid ■■' the post w.is nni luiidt! until juit r in tiio d.iy. .\nd. ii^'iiin. Cu|)i.i:: Roheris niii • liiiv e noted llu> Utnc of \viiti;i,' his (l,-ii;inil lit Uia U'^l headquarlcra tvud Lieut. Hauks the time It rciiohcil ,' ..i xiiinds. LIEUT. HANKS REPORT. )m Dr. Dha', ■ wh(»n ovcfv 0. OlKMIiy. i > tipproiw'li of ill Ihc! bl(Hl{ 1, and iiiihlc iiiiK^ o'clocl: ill possess lor, ort, iitid ()ii(> nost (It'fonsc s at til is timo the edge of noniy sent in r of tlie foil ly's forces, i [ had of llic nticipated it, K'h ail (nciii force iiiultT eii etf(H' live icaii f2:<nitlo- litlod to ;i(' M'taiiiod lilt' liuiidriMl In iti tlH'se tliicf ill nii:i(l siiiiii' ^llll^'[l(ll■|• of I " inoi'iiiu;^ ill. Ill'' •I'll so • 1(1 of I I'liKil lU'iiiaiid <>'. ii/;iiii, ('upl.ii!! ;iii(l ill hU v^\L one thousand strong, consisting of rc^guiar troops, Canadians and savages; that they had two pieci^s of artillery, and "svere j^rovided with ladcU^'s and topivs for the purpose of scaling the work's, if necessary.* After I had obtained this information I consulted my oliticers, and also the American g(MitIemen pres(»nt, who were very intelligent men; the i-esult of which was. that it was impossible for llie garrison to hold out against such a superior force. In this opinion I fully concurred, from the conviction that it was the only measun* that could |)n>v(nit a general massacre. The fort and garri- son were accordingly surrendered. * * * * "In consequence of this unfortunate attair. I beg leave. Sir, to demand that a Court of Inquiry may be ordered to investigate all the facts con- iHH'ted with it; and I do further rt^piest, that tlie Court may be spiH'ially directed to express tluur opinion on the merits of the case. "Porter Hanks. ''T icutcnant of Artillcn/. " •*His Excelhuicy Gen. Hull "'Comnuniding the N. W. Army." It is not necessary to discuss the question whether the surrender at Fort Mackinac, without a show of resistance, was justitiable. Tlie garrison was but a handful of men. By no fault of his, the *.\ (lis«M(Miaii',v in llio t'stiniiitr of troops tisiiiiult" liy oiMJosiiitr sidts. es|H't'i;ii;,\ ill reports from tlu' hat I le ticid, is very ooiiiniou. A rei'eiii Uistory of ('aii.ulii, liowt-vi-r, (piililislu'd in IM'tT). is im'xcusably out of lilt; Wily, whfti it niak«'s (^aptiiin Uohcrts ultacl<iiig foroe less ihauiwu luuidiH'd." us far us tY)(/(u/rHr.s uud rok'ulars were cont'i-rned. uud mukes uu Uit'uiiou whiiiever of the large uumbcr uf iudiau allies. 48 EARLY MACKINAC. Lieutonjint in comiiuiiul liad bo(Mi tiiU'iMi onliivly unawares. The enemy werr in overwhelininii' nnnilxM's and ()('eu[)^'iiii^ a position with tl^'ii' cannon wliicii coniniandcil tlic Tori. Tlicii- Indiin allies w«'rc waitiii«JC hi sava.iiHi eapM-iu^ss lor \\\v attaclv. and had tiie tiiililiiiii" onco l)(>,iiMiii it. would have been beyond t lie power of the ollicers to iv sti-ain tlieni.* Tlie eaptni'e of Mackinac, tlu> tirst stro1c(> of the war, was of tlie iii^'liest importanee to liir Britisii interests. Vahiablc stores of liKM-rliaiidis.'. as well as eonsid(n*ablL' sli!})p"iig" which stood in the iiarbor. were secured. It .nave tiieni the k'cy totln> fui" trade of a vast rci^non, and the entire* connnaud of the ni)per lakes. It exposed Dcti'oit and all lower Michi.n'an. It ii'i'eatly tcrritied CJ(4ieral Hull. who commanded the department of ]Mi{dii.L!,*an. It arrested h's operations in Canada. He said: "The whole northern hordes of Indians will be let down npon us." His surrender, just on(> month later, was in i)art due to tlie panic it caused — one histor- ian of that day, saying: "Hull was conc^uered al Mackinac."' On the island, the Briti.sh proceeded at once to strenj^Mhen their pt)sition. In order to guard a<j^ainst any apj)roach in the real', like the succt^ssful one they themselves had nuule.tlu^y built a vei-y stron;'; earth -work on the hiuh hill, a half mile, oi* little more, back of the post, which they called Fort Geor<i:e. in honor of the Kin<^ o! En«!:land. This fortification still remains, now known to all visitors *Johu AsUin. of the Mtitish storeUt t'piriw clfpiirtHu-nt , iiurt preseui with the besit*t,'iuk' foroe, siiid.. that hiid lh«.> suldicrs «»f the fort lir«d u gun. \ni llrnily believed uot a s<v.;l rf i!u'in would havt; bocn saved. tll*| hr sill CONSTRUCTING FORT HOLMES. 49 as Fort Holiues. In itscoiisl ruction tlic citizens of 1li(> vilhii^^c were impressed, every iibU; bodied nuin Ix'liii:- r(»(iuii'ed to ij^ive tlirce (tiiys in the pick imd ,sli()\«'l work. A coiiitiioii (>rroi- prevails thiit this cUicient t'aitli-work was actually constructed the very niii'ht I he Itrilisli arrived, and tluit it nuule i)art of the forniidable investment of Fort Mackinac which led lo ils speedy surrt^ndcu". A monuMit's I'cdlection will sliow this could not have been the case. The in\adin,ii" force only landed at three o'clock that iii<)iiiin<i: and then, wilhall their 1i'a[)pin,i;'s, liad to iiiaivh two miles to ^vt into position, and yet were ready by ten o'cdock to open tire. It is probable this hill was the "hiMiihts abov(^ the fort.'* to which, as (^a[)tain Roberts says in his rei)ort, "one of those miwieldy .n'uus was bi-ouuiit up with much difticidtv;" and that far the Fort Hohnes' site fin" : red in the demonsti'ation a<^'ainst Lieut. Hanks' coiiiinand. The fortitication itself, however, bcung tlu> scientitic work of militaiy en,i4"in(^ers, and in- volvinir a protracted pei'iod of luu'd labor, was con- structed afterwards at the British comnumdant's lt>isure. Th(^ other on(^ of Captain KolxM'ts "two six-pouiukM's, '' toi>'(dher with tlu^ <j:reat bulk of his men. incdudiuic his Indians, we may suppoS(\ oc- cupi(>d the rid«4"e of ii'round, part open and part wooded, betwecMi tlu* hill and th(i post, just beyond lh(» old ])arade i^round, whicli lies outside the piesiMd fort fence. Cai)tain l\,oi)erts was r(dieved,Se[)temljer 1H13, and Ca[)tain Bulloidc a[>pointed in liis place. Col. McD(jnall assumed charii'e in the sprin.i^ of 1814, This utticer's name often a|)pears as McDouall. I CIIAPTEK Vr. P>y Coiuniodoro T^orry's vlctorv on Luke Ktic mul (J(Mi('ral llaiTisoirs vicloi'ious baltic of lli" 'I'liaiiH'S. 1 lic> aiit iiiiiii (tf l^^i;! IouihI the Al!n•t•■;(■;ltl^ ill ]);)ss(>ssi<)!i of I^ala' Huron, and iifariy ail of Micliiiiun. The r»* capluro of Mackinac was (l<irr- niiiicd on. In llic cai'iy s[)i-in,n' of 1^14, an cxpctli- ti»n i'of this piirpOM' was planned, \vliicli. Iiowcn 'T. (lid not u'cl nndci' sail until .Inly ^Ird. (Mnl)ai-lviii,Li' fi'oni J)(Mf()il tliat day. It was a joint iiaxal antl militaiT i'oi'co. TiitM'e were s<'\'cn war vessels un- der C'oniniodorc Sinclair, and :i land i'oi'ce of T-'ni men. undei* command of Col. C'i-oi:"han. Theobjec!. besides the I'elalxini!: of Mac]<inac. was also lu destroy the Kn.iiTish post at St. Jo.-epli, and to in llict whatevei' danuii:(^ it could on the niil'taiy stoi'(»s and shi])|)in,i:' of '.ne eiieniy on the iiei«^hber- in*_r boi'der of Caiiudai. Tiiese war l)i'ii;"s and otli'i' vessels of the squaih'on wej-e the hii'u'est e\'erseen, u[) to that tim(\ on the waters of St. Clair and Huron. The commanders, instead of sailinii* a! once to Maclclntic. concluded to tirst dispiitcli tlu'ir other eri"inds. Tliey found St. Josei)h ali-eady abandoned by the British, but they captured soiu" Enii'li>h scliooners and sup})lies. They then tni-nc'l back for Mackinac Island, wliei'o they arrived on the i\")th of July. But no success awaited them there. The Eniiiish fully ai)i)reciated the great value, 5ii St \\| 111 l)t| (■( .:5 KHINFOUCINC TUK I'UST. 51 M\kv Erio. tic of li|M Alll<'C;<;iti.s iriy ail of WHS (Icli'r. Ill cxiu'di- ll()\V('\ t'l'. iiiharK-iiin- iia\al and • 'sscis IIU- ('<' of r.'ii llO ol.'Jcci. "> al.so lu 11(1 to in iiiil'tar.y H^if,'-}ib()i'- nd ollirr N'i'rseeii. 'lair and liliii.i;- at U'li their uli'ciidy 0(1 sonj<> ntni'iK^d 'ivcd on 3d I hem t value, stratc.irically and c*oiiim(>irlally, of Mackinac and \\(Mv doti'i-iiiinod to bold it. Tiicy took stron<; iiK'ii.sui'cs I'oi" its defense. Col. MeDonall, who had Ih'imi st'iit thert! in May of that yviiv as the new M coiiiiiiandant. was a very onej-«;elic and skillful M)ldiri'. lie brou.uriit with hini fi'esh trooi)s from Caiiiitla. aiinnunition and provisions, and other thiims necMlful. J{«'si(l('s this fact, thi^ garrison \\t'n> l)y no iiicaiis iniioi'ant of the expedition in iluMf iioi thern waters, and of its object; and there was lit) possibility of a surprise attack. Oiu* of tlie oltici'i's belon.ii'in*,^ to the reinforcement which had Ix'cn sent to tlic post thus wrote: "AftiH* our ar- rival at the island all liands were employed strenuthenitii;- the defenci^s of the fort. For up- wards ol" two months lialf tb(^ i^'arrison watched at niiilii aL':ainst attack.*' The Indians from the sur- rounding,'' coniitry, and Canadians In^re and there, wei-e called in for aid. Besides the additional fort which they had built. Port Geoi'i!;-(\ (now Fort llolnifs, and already referred to) batt(M-ies were placed at various points outsi(h3 the walls which coinnianded the a})proaches to the Ixnich. One was on the hei<z:ht overloolvin<^' the <4"round in front of the i)resent Grand Hotel, another on the hi<;'h Knoll just W(»st of tlie fort, while others lined the <ast bluff betwc^en the i)resent fort grounds and iiobinson's Folly. Our American ofticers at tii'st tliouiiht of erect- iiiiia battery on Round Jsland and sludliiit]: tlie fort t'l'oin tlu>re. A yawl was sent with a S(|ua(l of men lo reconnoiti-e, and a spot fixed upon. This was seen by the Englishconimander and he immediately P li :.L» EARf-V MACKINAC. stMit o\«'»' :i lar^c (It'tacliiin'iil oi Indians, wlio I(»i'c«mI lli(» litlh' ])arly In M«"-. One of iho iiicii. Iiowt'vci". waited loo l<)»i<::, tciiiptt'd h.v iIm' hcrrics wliioh p:r<'\v a1 his tVot, and missed llic hoal uiid was capl iired. M'lic Indians i'ow«m1 in with their ])i-isoii('i'. chantinii' the death dii'«i:e and expeetiiiLT to dispose of hini on the shoce in tiieir nsiKil i)ai'bai'i<', inannei*; and in tlieii* wild frenzy ot" delii-fht. some of llie scpiaws. Ix'l'oi'e tlie canoe had touclied liie beach. i'usIhmI into the AV-it(M', waist deep, with wliettod icnlves j-aised aloft, to heuin at once tiic woi-l\ of savaii'e tort iii'ini:-. IViit tlie ottici-r of Ilic for'l. di\inini!: their object, liad sent ;i s([uad )t sohliers to pi'otect the iiapii^ss ]H'isoner. '^riie extended level ii'roimd just west of tin' viihi«4"e strtM'ts, was also considered as a. p()iiii wh(M'e a hmdin.n* could be made*, and th<' talvinir "I (he foiM be att(Mni)ted. nnder cover of the guns ef the vessels. Hut Captain Sinclaii". who descrih d the fort hill as a ''pei'fect (Gibraltar." found tlr ' his vessels would only be exposed to a rakinn* tire from the heights above without his bcMn*^' able to elevate tin* i^uns sutticiently for return shots. After hoverhi.£>r about the island lor a w<^ek it was concluded tliei-e was no othtn* way than to imitate the ])lan of the successful enemy, two years before*. So they .sailed around to "British Land- ing" and disembarked. Auii'ust 4th. and marched ;is far as the Dousmau farm (now Early's farm). But the conditions were entirely different from those ef two years ago, and the nioveuKMit was ill-starred. and a melancholy failure. According, howev(M\ to the reports made by tiie joint connnanders of tli^ FAILIUL: Ol'^ TUK ATTACK 5:5 IIS. wild Im' IIK'll. (' l)(M*fi('S l)n:il uikI itii llicir x|)f<Miii:: ir llSllnl 'dcli.li'lit. tOlU'lMMi '<'|), "Willi OIICC tile Cf of tllf S(HUl(.l )[ 'st ot" the > ill ])oi!l! talviiiir of n guns (if doscril' '(l )iin(l tlv' iilvinij: tii't' IL,^ al)l(3 to lots. a w<'olv it ' than to two yonrs isli Laiiil- lurched ;i.s I'm). But n those of ll-starred, ►\vev(^i-, to n*s of the t ■i ox-pi'diiioii. it was not so iiuicli their ])hin to at- iriiipt the; storniiiiij: of th(^ worlss. as to feel llie cin'iiiy's str<'n.tr1h and toestahllsh a lod.mncnt from wiiit'h by slow and tri-achial appi-oaches. and hy sieitc tliey uii.u'lit ]n)\)o i'ov success. All such cx- ppclations w«>re soor; dissipated. Facin.ij: the open Held on the Dousniau farin were the thick' woods. This was a iierf(^ct cover 1o the Indian sivirinisiici's, wlio. conceal(Ml in their vantaire ])oints, hotly at- laclced our soldiers; to say iiothiiiii; of an Eii«^lish Icittcry of foiii' ])ioces, tirinijf shot and sliells. TIit'r(> coidd be neither advance nor encami)iii,ir. Tlie oidy wis(Mhin,y was to rotn^at to the vess(ds This was done and tlu^ expedition h^ft the island, haviiiiiC lost 1ifte(Mi k'illed and about lifty wounded. Major Andrew Hunter HoIuk^s, next in command to Colonel Croiihan, was onci of the slain in this most unfortunate and fruitless action. lie fell while* h»adin*i: hisi)attalion ii: a ihink movement on the i-i<r]it. One stoiw is that the <iun wliic]i})i(M'ced his breast witli two balls was finnl by a little Indian boy. Another tradition is that the Major had been warncMl that moi'nin.ij:. by a civilian aboard the vess(d. not to wear his unifoi'm which would mak-e him a target, but that lie decdined the frimidly ad- vice saying, that if it was his day to tall he was ready.* Majoi' Holmes was a Vii'ii'inian, an intelligent and ])i'oniising young ofticor who enjoyed the Iriendshi)) of Tliomas Jefferson. H(» had already distinguished liims(df in a battle* neai* Detroit, and had performed well a spec'al service assigned him '■OuxrlfH 3. Juiit'\si)n\n- Sketch of thr Second Wnr." Vol. 2. IF 54 EART.V MACK" rr AC. in this sanio cxpoditioa. when at the Sjuih St. Mario. In the olYicial re{)<>rts of tlie Marlcjtiac i)atl le lie was )'(>ren'(Ml to as tliat *'«rallant ojtii it. Maji »!• Hohnes. uh()s«> char'actei" is so w^'ll k'nowti to the war depai-t inent ;" atnl a«rai;n as "the vaJuaiilc and ever-io-ht' lamented otticei*. " His iw»dy ikuI been eaiM'ied otT the tic Id and .secrPtod by a t'aitlit'ul neirrt* sei'vant. and tiie next ilay was respecU'u'ly delivered to the Aniei'icans by Colonel McDoiiill and taken to Deti'oit tor burial. A very tittiiiir tribute to jiis memory was it. that when in tin' followinir year the ishuid a^ain came i:nder our fla<;. the name of the new fort on the suunini lieiirhls. whicli had lu'en i)uilt by the Kn.irlish. wa> cluinired troni Fort (ieorire to Fort Hohnes. T"ie tort bri'iir rouuil im])i-< 'ij-nable l)y assault, no furtliei- attempts at capture wer-c made, and tli. <»X])edition returned down the lak«' to Detroit. Hk- most ot the soldi»Ms b«'iiiir sent to join (Jeneral Brown's foi-ces on t li(' Niairai'a. Hut the ami) lien to I'ejj-ain tlu^ island was not yet ail)andone<i It wasthoiiirht to sta»'\e out the srarri.MMi and thus foice a surrender. IOn,i:'li>li sn])pli!**s could now come on iv from Canada t hr;)ULj the ( ieoi'Li'ia.n liay. Near the mouth of the Ni> tax isiiira river at t he ^<>ut hcnst corner of I hat bav. ne: a protectinir blocic hons«\ was the .s«'hooner "N.iiK v'" loaded with six months' supplies of 7)r<»- vision- intended tor the Maclcinac h)iM. A d«' taciiUM'tit of the Am«'rican t loops landiniT tbi'r blew up the hloclc iiouse and destroyed tli« S('hooii&>r and her supplies. Tliei-c i-euiained now notliiiu^ more to d(» than to so guard the watei-s ih S<::ar('ITV nv TMi(»VTST()Ns. .)j ihai tlu! (It'stiuition of 1 he islniid could noi i)o ro- piiii-t'd. Two of ilic vessels, till' "Tiirn -ss"" and the ••Scoi-jiion.'" \v<'rt' Icfl lo iiiaiiil;iiii :i sti'ici l)l(M-ka«lo. Till", was ]H'oviiii,'- very cITcrt i\('. and iM-ovi>ioiis ran •,<« low ill Mackinac, lliat a loaJ' o!' l»i<'ad would soil Inr a dollar on Hie sti-ccls. and llic nH:?n of the LMi'i'ison wero killin*^ liorsts i'or meat. The foliowinii' cxti'aci I'l-oin a Idler writton hy one of the En.ijlisii ot'licei-s depicis ilio situation uitliin tlio L»)\'i at this time: 'Aftei- ilio fuilui-(» of tlie attack', the Aniericansestahlisiieda l»lo<kadc l>y which tlii^v intei*cept(Ml our sii|)])rK's. Wc Imd hut ;i '-iMiall stoi-e of provi-^ions. The C(niiniandei- irrew Vfcy anxious. The L:-arri>oii was ]>in on short al- iowanccs. Some hoi-ses llial ha|>|ien«'d to he on llii' inland were k'illcd and sailed down, and we oc- casionally wei-e Nucccssful in pri icui'inL:" ti>h from the lak'e. To (M'onomi/e our mean-. iIm- L'"rea1»'r part of the Indians Wfie inducid to di'|iart to iheir liomes. At, leuii'th we saw ourscKes on the vcrire of starvation with no hoiit' of relief fi-oni anv i|uarler. " Unrin.G" all the suminei' we find Colonel Afc- Doiiall in hi^^ let ters to t he drpart ment hcL'irinir and elit reat illLl" for SU|i|tlie.s. Tliert} were yet otiii'r emharrassnM'n's. Al- thousfh thoiii.'-hout the whole pt'i'ind the In«iians of 'he MacL'inac re^'ion were allies of the l»riti».ji. the illiance was not without it > diftieult ies. Many of !hem showed an indecision when success was 'ioni>tful. as one of the iMiii'ish airents wi-ote. and a predilection in faxor of llie Ann'ricans seemed to intlnence tliem." Ahout the island 'Mlu'V l>c- 5C> KAU1.V MAlKlNAC^ c;vMH> vc^ry (Inuioroiis, " aiiollior oHicof said. AikI C«>1. M<'I)«Mial spolv.' of tlit'iii as "an im<'fi-l:ii!i (luantiiy" — th;ii iIh'V "wci-r tit-l';!*' as lli(» wiiui aim it wjis a. ilirtic i ■ lasic lo lo'oj) ihciii with lis." ||r wi»rs (-'naf)an':i-~'»l. ii»<>, l)y tli«'ii' Hocking' to ilic isJiiiid «iji(l r(?(|uirini:" to !)«' r<'<l. liii: ••olicl'. a,nd tliat l>y lln'ii*o\vn saii'acily ami dariiii:". ^ais at hand IniMlK' bol(»a,iiMM'i'«'d nari'i.^Mn Wh«'!i ;in' "Nancy" and ihf t>|(>(*k lionsc; on llic Noiiaw a wt'T" (lest i'ovcmI. tin' ot'Hccrs in chai'Lre of that -• |)|)iy of >t<.rt's. fjicut. Wofslcy, wilh s»"«'ni« lilors (if t ho Ivoyai Na\'y. h«.d nianaiiTd to •■'•a id «'ff»M't a ))assa.i:'<' in tin open l)oal lo th»* fort ;.« Mackinac ai.d had reported tiic loss nf tli**^ sto?'os. l'\>i'ccd l>y 1 ho necessity of the silii- atioii. aln.d and de,siie:-ate pi'ojcct was undertaki'n — that. \\a>. liie capture of the two hJoclcadiiiL'' v«''r4H«^ls. lialti-aiiv were titl<'<i ont and e((uippcd a' Mackinac, niainu'd unih-r Lieut . Worsiey witli hi-> seann'n ai <i Ny \"ohnitcei's fi'oni the <jrarris()n ami Indians, niai^iim' in all ai>out s<'\-enly men. The>r SPtl"«MMhon liie l)old eirainl 'I'he Scorj)i()n and Tijjcrcss Were then t-iMiisiiiL:' in the neiirhlxirhood e' Detom*. ( )n a dai-K' niijht. rowinu: ra[)i*lly and in silence, the\ appr(»aclied tir^t the 'l^iiri'ess, which lay at aindiiM' off St. .(oseph. and taUinLi" it eiitirelv hy urpri.se. Iea|>ed ahoaid and afler a. hand 1e hane >t rnirulc >oon had possession lis ci-ew were sent :..4'Xt (hiy. as prisoners lo Mackinac. The Tiirn*>^"^ si«j*nals wei-e in the hantis of lh«» captors, an't M'' American pennant was kept llyiniT at tlic m.;- iie;id. ( >n 1 he .second d;iv afler, I he Scor'pioii was ■M^'fr^u beat in^r \»p towartis Iht companion ship ll r. c ( J0 IJlUTISn APPKI'X'IATIOX i)V MACKINAC. I)/ ■^i^i'l. And "■ wiiiil and 1 us."' II,, h.l;- to III,. racity and .li'arrisMn, ise (.11 Ihr 1 ill cliarii't' il«\\', will) I inanai;f(| 'II lM)al !() n' loss (d' lix' siin- iidci'laki'ii oclx'adiii-- lil»jM'(| ;it wilh liiv isoii and Tlh'sr Moil an, I 'In K )(| ( i; \' and in , wliicli <'til ii-«>l\ liaiid lo <'\V \V«'|T r. 'V\u' •a|)lors, C at 111,' <"or|)i()ji oil slii]) unauai'o of its chan.irc* of forliiiie. Ni.i:]i1 coming on -lie aiicliorod soiiio two inilrs ofT. Ahoiit day- linlil llio Ti«,n'oss s(»t all sail. sw(»))t down on licr, ()))i'IhmI tiro and l)oai'dt>d and ('ai)tui-cd her. Sad tall', indeed, fo!' Iliese two war vessels, wliicli only a year hefore had lionorahly lli^nrod in Coinniodoi'o l*('i-!'v's vicloi'v on TjaKe Krie. I itrefer nol to (luidl on 1 1n* inortifyinir l)it of history, excepi to •>ay lliat candor and jiislice compel our liiniiest admiration for lliis Enu'lish feat of d;irin<jr and pi'owess. This ended all attempts to dislodszi^ the Knsf- lish from oni- island. It i'«Mnaine(l nndei- their tlair iinlil terms of peace and seltleineiit were secured hy the treaty of (iheiit. Febi'uai'y Isl.'. Mack'inac Was e\ ei- a fa\'<»i'it<' ]>oiiit in the «\ves of the l>rilish, and all alon*^ an ohji'ct of t heir stroiiii' desiie; and they were loath to li'Inc it up. Col. McDonall. the able and successful commandant, spoK'e with stroiiu- feeling" of the "inifoid iinate cession <»f tin* fort and the island of Michilimackinac to the 1 iiited States." It had heeii ;i matter of (»l1icial • oiiiplaint and criticism in the pro\ii;ce of Upper ( anada, that after tln^ first war ii had heeii '•in judiciously ceded" hy tin' lMi<.rli~h i!-o\eriimei!t. ■ lohn.Tay, our .Amerit-an i'epresentati\'e in the cou- lereiice of the treaty and the houndary lines. found that tli(» commissioners of the ('r()\vn wer(» more intei'«»sted in an "ext^Mided commerce tiian in the possession of a \ast tra<'t of wilderness." The fill' trade at that time was the main thin.ir and MacK'inac was t he «j:at«'way to all the \'\\v traflic of thowesl and soiithwesl lields. And again, it ap" Uf EARLY MA('KINA(1. |)(>ars ill n<'«,a)l "uitin^ tlic 1 i-caiy <'l" 1^1 '» tliat llio c )iii- iiiissloiKM's of llic ci'owii. ♦•vt'ii wlicu ftM^lini; ohllLnii 1o f(>r(\ii'() a. lar.ij:(» ])art of llu-ii- dcniaiKls, still hthl oul for IIk' islanti of Maclcinac (and Foi'1 NiaiiMnn as loiiiz: as i)().ssibl(«.* Tliirly-two yoai's had now passed siiico tlK» Anicrican I'iiiiil to Ili«» island hiii l)('(Mi acl\M<)\vl('d<r('(l by tlicli'caty of ITsil. Ol'llicx \('ii I's Old V three had Ihmmi vears of wai*. Ihit lu! oiK'-liaif of tliat wiioh* ])eri()d tlie Hriti-h thiii' li;iii h< (Ml nyini^ over Fort Mack'iiiiic. In the coiuplri,. stMis(», tlier(*tor«\ \ho. destiny of th(^ northwest \\:is not, assured nnlil the treaty of (Jlient.f Witli lli;ii treaty tiie (niestion was finally- and conclusiv fly settled. 'J'he |)osts of tlie iOn<jrlish whic.ii had ixMMica))! mi- ed hy us, ai'd ours ]i(»re and thnr«\ wliich they luiil tal'.'eii. wer(» to b(^ I'estoi'ed by (^acli «jfov<M'ninent to t he ot her, [n conneclion witli lliis mut ual deli\ (■r\ is an interesting fact. niontion(Ml in a j)ri\;iit letter whicli Coloiud McDonall wrote to l»is frinni and fellow oftlcor of the Enirlish army, ('a[)t;riii Hul<rer. lie says thai in the e(inipiiient of .1''mi' Maelvinac, at the time he was male in^" tli(> transl.i were cannon be;irin,i^ the inscriptions: '•'I'aKeii ;i' Saralo«^''a;" '""I^dcen from F^ord Cornwalli^," an other sucli, and lie sp<'al\s of his cha<i!'in in beiiiL' ()bli«^(»d to include, in his j-estoration of tln^ foil. •runs which told of Kn<;'lisli defeat and humiliati«'ii in the lievolntionary war; and thai as an Knulisii man ho felt "a stron*; temptation to a breach •' *HtMir.v Adiims' • llistttry nf Ihr Unitrd Staten" s»l. V. p. :M. +IIlns<Uile's Old yorlhmnl.' !• 18.V t 'A J tf niST(^liI(' CAXNC^X. r.9 hi r t 11h' c'liii. still lu-ld ^ Nin«iMrai liad now -;lcin(l lind Ol'lllCv, tlii<i' li;i"i (•()ni[)lti(' iwcst \v;i> With lliiil iclusi\ fly ciica])! Ill' thoy li;nl •niiKMit 111 lI d('li\'('f\ I ])i'i\;ib' lis i'l-irlid , Caplalii \ of F<>i" t I'aiisl'.T •Taken ,r Mis," ai;i, ill Im'Iiii; 11h» fo! :. iiiiiiliati'>ii Kiiii'lisli hi'racli o' :m. ihai <,''()o(l I'liith wliicli ill all |)ul)li<' treaties il i.-^ iii- t'aiiiy to violate.'' Surely it, adds to our aiiti(|iiarian and patriotic iiiitrest in the old fort to know that ltiiiis. capt iired fnMii Hui'.iroyiK* and from CoriiwaUis in the battles (if the Ivevolution. once lield [)osition on these laiii- ]iails. \V«' do not know how these honor;. hie trophies of the Ivevolution ever found their way to our i"e- mole jiioneer out-])ost. Wedok'iiow. iiowever. that (tiir loss of tlje fort. t!ir<'e years before, explains liow they <i"ot hack', temporarily, lo their I'oriner I'aiLtlish owiHM'shi]). And now in their alteiaiat ions of estate, after takin<jc ])art in kee])iiin-oiT American iioopsfrom the island, and thus, as it wei-r, i(^- (jt'emini:' themselves in Fin<j:lisli eves I'roiii tlie had fortune ineurred in our war for indept'iidence. they aLiain fell to our liands. And w<' can appreciate Col. M<-[)onal!'s sense of reii'rel at haxiiii;' to i^ive lliem u]>. It was the same sent imeiit which ('apt. Mc.Nfee. in his narrat i\-e of that war in which h(» liiinself had a ])ar1, tells us wa-> exiiihited hy .-omo of the liritish ol'ticcu's when hy liuirs sui're:;i|ei' se\('i'a,l brass cannon fell to their hands which our fnrc.'s had capt .1 red in i li<' war of t he !i'c\-oliit ion — they "saluted IIhmii with tears.""* It is vain to surmise the lilstory of those in- terestinir .ifuns subseipietit to l"^!'!. ll<>w loiiii'they rnniaiiied at the island ]*ost, and whetliei- in tiiiit> they wei-e sent to the smelter's furnace, or arestill ill lionorabh) ])reservati()n somewlier*^ wltli other w;ir relics, wc cannot say.. In this conned ion i! •■ i/<«torj/ «i/ (he Late War in the Wifltni Cumiliy." m KAULV MACKINAC iTKiy 1)0 well 1() rcinai'lv cr;)iic(M"irm.i:: llial old fiisliK.ii- od cannon wliicli liasbcpii lyiiii^' in ])o.'.ilion on ih,. villan'o Ixnich in fronl of \\\c. '-Jort prardcn."' a famiruir ohjfcl I'or <i-(MM 'rations past. Tlio storv !> that the .iiun liirnrod in Coin. I'orry's hat Ho oh LaU'c Fjv'u\ tiion.ij:li wlirthcr oik* of liis own a'uiis ii the action or a liritish liiin \viii( ii li > captui'id is uncertain; that it was left h(M-c Ioiil;- as^o l)y oik' t,: the iz'ovcnmicnt revenue vessels. That it was |>iii in char.ir*' of the Maclcinac Cuslcnn House, and iini' it ns«'d to sei've on 4tli of .luly and other natioiia! occasio'is \vhi<'h called for celebration "al iln cannon's mouth." I'pou their withdi'awal from MacK'inac, liir Enirlisli irari'ison estahlisluMl tiieinselves on Dnim mond's Islanil in the northern end of Lake liiiiMii, and maintained a stronjif ])ost tlier<\ It Avas al'i'-i- wai'ds decided, liowever, hy the joint coiinnishiMii ers in settlin.n' the ])oundary lines between 'Im' United Slates and Canada, that that i)art of tin' lak*' in which Druminond's Island lay belon<re(l ii. the United States sid(^ of th* lin<'. Accoi'diii^'ly ii: Isi's the iii'itisli ufari'ison i'«'inoved, and tho i.slaiul was turned over to our <»"()vernim>nt. Col. Anthony Uiitlor was tho AnuM'ican oflictM to Avhom tin' fort was delix'ei'ed .luiy. 1"^!.'), l)Ul li' ]-eniain<'d oidy nntil the arran*jfenn'nts i'or e\a<ii iition were coniph'ted, when he withdrew t^ Detroit, and Captain VVillou«.,diby Mor.njin l)ecaiiir tiie tii'st commandant nndi i* tho restored AmeriiMi! rejjfim(\ From tliat time on there* was a loiiii succession of i'Oi!ular army soldiei-s and olticer^ inliabiting tho old cpiailers and baiTacks. Many [1 flisllioil- )ii on Ilif iirdoii. ■" ;l t' s1(»r\' i> lull He (11 'M ^ii'llh-^ II. ipturtMl is )y oiu' oi 1 was pill . and tli:i! • iialii)ii;il "al llir :iiKi(', liic on Dniiu- :(' lliirnii, V!IS liri"'!'- iiinissi"ii \V(M'1I tlio irt: of Ihr l()n<r»'(l i(. I'diiifrlv ii: .lie i.shiiid ■ail olliciT ."). hut li" 'or (»\acn KJI'OW tn ,11 l)('<'aiiii' Aiin'rifiii! IS a loni:' I otticci- :8. Man\ SOME OF THK FORT S EAUT.Y OFFICEUS. 01 of ilic otticers wlio afterwards acquinMl hi^-U rank ;iii>l (lisliiR'tioii diir'm.i,^ our civil war. l.^lU-lsC).', ciiIkm' in llu' Union Army or Southern, liad hccn in srr\ i('«' JM'ri' as youn«j: Captains or Li(Mit<Miants. Ai.ion^- tjicni w«'r(^ (Jen. SuniiK'r, Cleii. lhMnt/i<d- i;i;ni. <l«'n. Kirhy Sniilli, (Jen. Silas Cast'v, and ii.'ii. I'^rcd Steele, for whom a fort in the west has hcen named. (Jencral I'emhcrtoii was once a iiH'iiihef of th(» irarrison, and in a ])i*ivate letter written l)y one of the citizens in 1^40. when the l;ltl<' inland was ice-hound and there was a deartii of news, it is incidentially inentioiKnl that "Ijieut. ri'nihecton in the f(>rt is en.ira.ured in ,i:"ettin.n' up a |)i'i\at»» tlieat i-e. in an en(h'avor to ward olT winter and solitude," — th-- youn<^ olticer litt le dreamintr of lliat more serious drama in wliich lie was to act, I w'ntyllii'ee years later, as commander of A'icks- hiirn". with (J rant's hesieiriiiir army aroiuid him. During" the civil Avar, all troo])S h(>iniz" needed at the front, the soldiers "weri* withdrawn fi'om our fort. ^I'his was but temixmiry. however, and did not mean its ahandonment.* Its flau' and a solitary serieniit were left to show tliat it was still a milirai'v ])()st of the United States. This faithful soldier remained at the fort for many years after the wai', and was known to th(» visitors as t lie "Old Serjeant. "' i"'<>r a period during t'ae war it was made tiie place <>l cohtinement of som(M)f theUoiife(h'rat(» })risoners, |>i inripally notable otlicers wiio luid been captured, at wliich t ime Miclii«j:an volunt(»er tro(>ps liehl it. At the close of th(! war tlie fort r(>smned its old *Oc('iisi(in;ill.v ;it oiluT I iiucs, ii1m>. lli<> '-'iirriMiii would b" Ifriipor* iuily boai cisuwhurc, bul Uii>> utv'cr mcuuL lUc giviag u[} of ihc post. 02 KARI.V MAPKIXAC. liiiio sprvi(M» as a «j:ai'ris()ii ])()st. tronorally aln.ii* lil'ty oi" sixty iiKMi of tlie rc.irulai' army, willi Hi. Mr olticcrs. ('()iH|)()siii^ 1li(» force. Adi'lacliiiHMit Wdiild sci'vc a few y«'ars, IIkmi be transfcrnMl and anollicr would tal\t> ils pla(M'. to oiijoy in its tiii-n the I('(M||i (•rat ivccruiiatr of the sumnuM*, and to cndiirr ihc ri<i"oi's and tlio isolation of tlie Avinlers. So the oM fort coMtiiiiKMl in iiscwitli its inoi'ninn* and cv ciiiiiL'' i:'un. its stii'i'in.u: hii.izic nottvs, its daily ".i^naid mount. ■■ its paciiiiT s(Mit ry, its di'ill. its ••ins])('('il(»n (lavs. ■■ until l"^!*.'). Tlicii tlio sliarp and d«'ci>ivr voiceof autjjority callcMl "iialt** totlir lon«j: niurcli of military liistory in \\\o sti-aits of Mackiii;i\v. T\\v United States n'ove rumen t. hy foj'iual act ol Couiri-ess abandoned tlu^ J'ort, and <::ave it o\' r. t(\iit'tinM- with the National Park of eleven liundicil acres, to the State of Michiiritn. The fort was dis- uianllcd. lln' old cannon were removed from the walls, and cveiy soldi*'!' withdi-awu. We do in»l question tin* fact, liiat as a fort constructed in l>rimitive times it was unsuited to the days ol uiodoi'u warfai-(»; nor the fact that witii th(^ nmnrr- ous other wi'll e<|uii»ped ])osts, th(* depai'tment i> nKiintaininLT for ils ti'oops, tliis old-fashioned one was not an ahsohite necessity. Noi* do w<^ (\\U'> lion for a moment the pi'opriety of makini;- \\v State of MiclTman tiie leiratee and successor to thi> pi-opeiMy. if the general iroveiMiment wasdetei'uiin- ed to dispossess itself of it. It could notiia\'e hcii moi'e suitably i)estowed. if it had to pass into ollni hands. The commissionei's. to wliosr chai'jj^e it i-> now c()mmitted. a[)pi'eciate and will (du'rish that historic and patriotic interest vvhicii aituclies to the ITS MILITARY IIIS"TORY CEASES. 68 ..l(i fort, and will ktu'p tlic grounds intact and care- liilly guard tlio buildings. Tiiey will aim lilvcwisn !,) proscrvii tho trees an I tiio di'ives oC the piiik in lluit natural beauty wliicli has so long given tlicMu siuh charm. But while thus assui-ed, it is at the >:iuu5 time a matter of deep regret thattlunuilional. vornmont should have I'or.salven the island. For iliinental reasons alone, oveu had thei'o been no wtlicr, th(M)ld foi't should have l)een retained as a rniied States i)()st. A military seat whii'h has two ImndrcHl years or mor(» of histoiy behind it, is not often to be found in the west(^rn \v(jrld. Indeed, w '■( ) ^I'l ()i( til iih tli(3 possible exception of Fort Marion, the I Si)aiiish fori itieat ion at St. Augustine, Fla., it doubtful if there be anotiier on this whole conti- ■nt, which could boast of so long a i)ei'i().l of con- tinuous occupation as old Fort Michilimackiiuic, wliich Avas established first at St. Ignace in tin? 17tii century, then renioviMl to old Maclcinaw, and since 17H0 has horn located on our island. C'llAPTKK VIT. K;i!'ly MaclviiKic had aiiioiii:' its cili/.tMis. sjyar.st.' thou.uli its jM)|)ulat idii was, :i inimlx'i' ol' iiicii of str()iii4" cliaracltT iiinl izrcat l)ii>iM('ss <Mi1<'rpri>('. Anioiii;" lluMii, not to spoalc ol' all. wcm Micliad Do'.iMiiaii. Joliii Dousiiiiiu. Jvlward ITiddU*. (J union 8. J I ii!»l)afd, Saimitd Abhot and Ainl)i"oso Davt'ii- [K)rt. ,)(»liii Doiisinaii. Ai)l)otl and Da\(Mi|)ort wrw tlio deputation ot" tlicro p'lil Icmcii rrfcri'od to !)y Li(Mit. llauivs. ill lii.> rc'porl of tlic sui'i'ciidor of the fort, as liavinu' accnnipanicd tlio tlaic <>t truco in tin; iiciTotiations luMwccn ('a[>taiii Kobrrts and hiniscli'. After t!i(» Enii'lisli came into ])ossession, t he citizen.-. were r(>(juii-»'d. to ia!<(» tiio oath of all(\i,'iance to tlif \i\uix. v)f lliose thi'u livin<i: on thc^ ishind, live aiv repoi'tcd a.s I'l^fusintr to do tiiis — Mi'ssi'.s. Daxdi- poet . Ji.)st wick. Stone, and tlie two Dousnian^. With the exception of Michiicl Dousnian, wlio wa> l)ernrnt('(L to remain neutral, tliey wei'O obliiifi'd to l(>ave tiieii' lionit»s and theii* prop(»rty until th'' c'los(M)l' the war. Besides these, th(»re were after- wai'ds thi'eo men in parliculai* who tl«j:ur«Hl in hii',L!'<' spli(M'(»s, and wei'f in re[)utatiou iu otlu^r parts of the land as well as in this remote wilderness ])!)iii! IMiese wei-(» Ramsey Crooks, Robert Stuart ami Henrv It. Schoolci-aft. Mr. Crooks came to Anieri(;a from Scotland. ;is a voiini!!' man. His careei' was an active aiiii *13iiWlc aaa lluijUuiil \vci\, uul thcu rchUlcut.'s uf tUo blaud. UAMSKY CIK^OKS. )J ll i. s]):irso IIUMl of Mk'liarl Gui'doii Diivcii- or! wi'i'o >cl to liy i* of the CO ill iiie liinist'lf, »citizrii> e to \\\r tivo a IV Da \ I'll- ISIlKlll^, vlio ua> ► liirod ic mtil ill'' in lai'L!*' parts of ,uii't ami thiiid, .i^ ivo anti luud. ^1 stirring ono. Ho was known in connoction with llic fur trade, it is said, from tho Atlantic to the Pacitic. His hnsinoss invoi\'od niiicli of [)oi-ilous Niiinicying and staiM lini,^ udvrntufo in th«' north and in th(ifar west. Ho was witii Hunt'soxpoditiou arrnss tl»o Kocdcy Mountains iind to tlio Pacitic >()a>l, as far back as isi 1, and a<j:ain tlio next year In- i lado the sani«^ overland joui-ncy l)ack to the Ka>t. Ho was an oducat(Ml, intolliL'-cnt man, woll (WlM'i'ioncod in human natur(\ and hin-jdy rated for his jud.n'mcnt. his ontori)i'iso and liis into<rrity. He was ono of Mr. Astor's •i<irlit iiand men in the I xtciisivo l)usin(»ss of tiie fur company. In tho Am 'I'ican ox[)odition a<i:ainst tho island in h'^l-t, in ill" att(Mn[»t to dishnl^i^o tlio Enii-lish, lio, toiifoUier Willi Dav(Miport and J(jhn Dousman, had ac- coiiipanii'd tlni scpiadron— the latter two as oxpatri- ai(Ml citiz(Mis, well acfjuainted with tho waters, to iiclp as jjfuidos; and Cro<jks to watch, as lar as lie (ould. tlio interests of Mr. Astor.* Ho did not Hiulvo Mackinac liis pormam it residonco dui'inu: the whole time of his conn(»ction with the business, l)Ut Mas moi'o or loss on the island. and eni^aii-ed in lis ottico work. Now York, aft<M'wards, was his lioiiH^: and on Astor's s(dlin<x out, ho Ijocamo chief lii()[u*iotor and thc^ president of tho com])any. It is said of him tliat ho concentrated, in liis r<Mni- nl>cencos, the history of tho fur trade in Amei'ica t"i' forty years. He died in New York in 1H59. ^S<.•hl»l)l^•^;lfL speiikiii!-' of Duvi'iiporl, (\vlu>, lu* says. \v;i.«. ;i, Vir^iuiiin), roifis to his thus ' siiiliUK' iiboiit tlu; l.■^luIul uiul lu sivrlit of his own tiMiii' ■' lie remarks, too. thill tor liis sulIiriuKs unci hissos. he "Ught 1) h;ivc b.'L";! icmuiK'ratrd liy tho (Jovorurncut 66 KAKLY MACKINAC. KobiTt Stuart was also a iialiv«? of Scotlatui. boi'ii ill 17^4. Ho came to America at the a^'-p of Iwoiity-two y(»ars,an(l illustrat«»(l the saiuo spirit f.f (M»tori)ris(3 and adv(Mitiir(». llo lirst lived in Mon. tnnil, and sorvod with tlu» NortiiwcsKM-n Fui' ('.. Ill 1^10 lin coniMM'ted liiinsclf, to^otlicr wiili h uncN'. ]);ivid Stuart, with Mr. Astoi-'s hiisin.-.. and AVMs «)ne of tiio party that sailed Ironi ^tw York l»y tlio sliip "Tonquin"' to Ibund tlio fur liadr city ol" Astoria, on tiio Pacitic Coast. In l^ii', ii boin«r oxceiHliiiLrly important thi.t certain pa|M'i> and dispatclios be taken fi-oui Astoria to N« w York, and the ship in llio meantiinc b«Mn«^ (icstioy od, and there bein^ no way of niakinijf the trip I*, soa, Stuart was put at thc^ In^ad of a i)arty to uii>iiM take the journey overland. Kamsey Ci'ooKs w.is one of tlie band. This trip across the inoiiiitaiii-> an<l tlirouijrh tlie country of wild Indians, and c.i i arid plains, involved s(»vero iiardships and j>ti , and illustrated the nerve, and vi.yor, and I'esoiirn > of the young h»ader. Tlie party was nearly a \ » ;u ou the way. In 1811) lit? came to Mackinac and 1m' canni a resident partnc^r of the American I'm Com]iany, and su[)erintendent of its entire busiiii» in the west. He wa. remarkably om^rgctic in business, a leader among men, and a conspi(ii<;ii> and forceful character wh(M'ever he niiulii In' placed. l!i the lack of hotel accc;nimodalions h^ homo was constantly giving hospitable welcome and entertainment to visit ing stranger.s. H<' d w'li on the island for fifteen years, and wIkmi 'Ik company sold out in 1H34, removed to Deti'oit. II'' was afterward appointed by the Governmem a> UODi:UT STIAUT. 07 luilijiii ( oimnissioiKM' foi* all tlio iribosot ili(» luti," w<'>l, and ,*ruai*(l<Ml tlioir iutiTcsts with |);ii(Mii;il cai'c. Tli(^ Imliaiis iisrd to spcalc of him as tlicii h»'st friend, llo also >t'i-\«'d as Slate lic:isurcr, and tit the? (Wpii'iitioii of his term of olli.n; whs lni>tt'(! and st?crctarv oi' I ho Illinois a!»d iMirhiu-aii Canal Hoard. Active' in frJ*<'at coninuM-cial and public intiM'osts, Ik* was also. siil)st'(|ii(Mit to liis (MMvorsioii oil Iho island in 1>^1'*^, zealous and pr )ni- iiciil ill church woi'k and always bore a ninh Christian cliaraclfi-. lie died verv suddenly at Cliica.iifo, in 1848. His body was taken by a vessel ()\er liic lalc(»s to Detroit for burial. In [)assing .Nhiclcinac tlie boat laid awhile ;it the dock, and all the |)eo[)lo of the villa,ii:<' ]»aid their resjjocts to the (lead body of one who had Ixmmi in lornn^r ye;i rs a resident of the island, so well known and so i^reatly leenuH In connection with tluCFur C()ni]>Mny work of llie island, which thes(» two men did so much to lironi()t<\ it may be well to ([uote from Mis. .lolm k'inzie, the wife of a Chieaii'o pioneer, who with her husband was her(Mn is;](). hi her interestinif lioolc "Wau-Hun, the 'Eai'ly Day' in the Nortli- wi'sl."' she thus wi'ites. speaK'inir of that period: "These were the palmy days of Mackinac, it was no unusual thinu: to see a hundr<Ml or mo''(* canocvs f Indians at once approachiui,' th<^ island, ladiMi ilh th(Mr ai'tich^s of traftic; and if to th(vs(» was I ) w add«'d the h([uadi'on of lai".ij^«? Mackinaw boats con- stantly an-ivini; from the out])osts with the fin's, p -hl-ies an<l bulfalo robes C(»llccte(| by the distant Irad'M's, some ideamav b(» formal of the extensive t EAKLV MACKINAC. <)|t»M'nt i"ii- ;u'(l lilt' iiii]M»rt;iii1 position of llx ViMtWK .111 l''iii* ( 'oiiiyuniv. a.s well as of ihr \ ;im (•icl<'(r ii!iiii;in iM'iiiii's j'itlxM" iimiH'diatcIv oi* n- 11)1 ticlv ciMtiH'cii'd with i1. " h' • V 11. Srliooicrafl r!\('(l oil tin' islaii I I'uiii 1.^;!l{ to I - 1 1. lir \v.i> ;i iKil i\ f of tin' Slatr ( f Xc , Yorlc. ' l<' was a St H'.lciit . an iiiNcsliirator* in'o \\\,' fuels aiH' pli<Mioiiitiia of naiuff. a> rciiiai'Uaihf liiiLTiiiM. a iri't'at tia\«'l('r ami t'\pl<)i-ci-. ami a prolitic "n-ni«'i-. lie was irncn to anliafolcrMh-jil roscarcliw-s; hv rxploiM'd iln» valley ol tlit< Mi.'+HissHp^i; Iro iiiivsl iiralHU lli«' niiiM'fal i-c^mirci's «)f iiiucli oi t li" Wot. part ic'.ilafly of Miss«H;i-i: anil ln' ili>i-( ^\«'"f(l t lit' s< Mii('«» of liio Mis.-^i.>sippi i:i.('!'. Uis ;^Ti'ait vvoi'ls. ami liy wliji-li ||(> is !-ii»st Iciinwii. was t hat iii connect n >n \\ il li ' ln' I ndiaii rare, lia\ ii:ir siMvit Ibirtr v<'ais«»f iiis Iif»- in cotitac, willi tln'i;;. TM',sid<'s hi-* travels aiiioii«i iJie ti-ilM'-^ t linMiid.oi;! ■>• . ' <•' Iiis pufMiil-. li'ii the west :; ad iioft liw ••>: . liini, lie \va> ll.e ( lo\fniiii.<'iil ;i:.;eiit in Indian alTiiiis lir t aiV S I Sio. Marie f< .|- cievfn \eais. and ilnii .»-l\iiiuc fi>i' <'iirlii v« ars. lie mentions that I! M ill oiu' t lint* • • t'f fonr te<,nssLii(i IndiaiiS \\ei t faaij)«*d aioii;/ ibt» .siio-pn-s of tlh^* i-iaiid loranmiiti :in i t li.ii 1 he a.i...U!! les t« «i*7U,(»!'0 in inniiey ; bi I he iieL""! ■ ' >\\ of wilij 1 he t I'l i -'>. ■ paid lliaK year am ua!«'U [ ^^m>n\ia. Ho uhso >• I'Vcii I'l--. f'tr the ( iovennneii; in? at tlio Sauit. li"' •H a II. d ' I a -ij-i. L! -r father. M ;. Jf -li 'ri leiuuil of L'oitil .id'VnejH^ coMii'rv John .join stjuidiii*]^. who d^- 'diiiLT in I Ih» of T^alce Snp«Tioi . iiadf<»i!nd . , in the danu'liU't' of ail Jndian (hiet. Thi ^»< Miss .J oh r-'ell IIKNIvV K. S( Hot i|,< liAI'T t'.'.l had boon s<'iil to Fiin'opr wliih' m y<Mini5 prirl to ho , i .,'ii1«'(l iiiidt'i" ill*' cai'c of licr fallicr's j-olativcs. ;iini slu' Ix'ciuiio a refined and <Mdti\al«'d ('liii>!ian ladv. Mr. S(;!iO()l('i*iift in liis oij^ht yoars' rosiilcnco on tlio isliind, li\('d in the lionsc known to all V V HENRY R SCHOOLCRAFT, LL D. ivad«>rs of Miss Woolson's "Aunt'" as tin* "Old Auiiicy." lie wiitt'S on his aifival: "Wo I'oinul oiiisch t's ;it oas(^ in llio rm-al and ].ict nrt'^qno LTnunds and domicii*' of ihcUnitod States Aironoy, <»\ ti liun*::. as it is, ])y iinpoiidinir <*lilTs and r.»tn- muiidini^ono ol tiio ni<>.st ploa.sinK and i-aplivating 70 KAIiLV M.UKINAC. f It'll' views of l;i]x<» sccnorw'"* Kv<M'v siibji'ct of ■.(icii- t.ilic! iiiltM'(\st, all llic physical iilicnom'Mi.'i o! ih,. isluiid, a.!nl iis fini'Kjiiit it-s aixl his|(ii'i<' [cahu'cs, and Jill quest i()ii> |M'riaiiiiii:4' to the Indians and llu'i met' ciiai-acicriNt ics. lln'ir lialiiisand custoui.s. i hin.irua.^'o, llicii- traditions and !*'L:'t'nds, {||,.i) rdi^'io'*. and csprcially ali that niiniit N-ad to fhcir moral and social iii.|iro\t'nii'nt — these \ver<« niaticrs .•)r liis ('(Jtistant sluvly. At \\\>' same time he Kcjit ahi'cast of t h«? «jreinTa) litcfat are of the dav. ii'iid illjJT I'Ik' bnok's of iioti' as llicy appcafcij and hi uiakiiii:" eont r-ilmliuns to !ii<>iMt iiic hv lil n 1 'M i ! S (tWll Ullii 1; ImioU's and review articles ai»d trcaiisc.*- wew ]»ul>lis)HMi in the Mast and in i'ai.iidand. In !iis remote island h<»!nr. ice honnd h)r half tjic \(;ir and larjifely shnl onl fr(»ni the woi-ld, ]\o was yt Welllsnown h\' hi,-. Wfitiiru's in 1 ho hiLihestcirt Irsnf 1 ea^rninLT Visit oj's of note. frr)ni Knropeasu ■•'i! as WCI'i fi'om Ihc Kastern Stales, com. cr lo thei.sland fre<picntl\ ('aliin.Lrat his hoiiscwith let icrsof iniri ihu'i ion. 11 e \\ as \oi"d a eomplinieidary m em I II' ship in nnmei'ons scienl itic, historical and an! iijua- rian >ociet ie;;. l)oili in thisconntry and in t!ie ei.i world. II" hail cori'cspiindents amonj,' seln>i;iis and sa\"anls o!' t he hi^'hest rank'. Ili> opiidon.s ;mhi views on sniijects of which he had nnule a study W(»r»* ^really |tri/<Ml. 'The eminent Sii- ll;nnplnv\ •e, CWpressed ill' Davy, of Kn,i;'land. for in>!an( liiLrhesI appieciat ioii oi' certain contrilmtioii scieiititii" iatei'ol whah Mr. Schoolcraft had pi'i s (I, •[|| tin* iiiIihIm i»f miiiif iMiw llvllii.' nii ; In* Kliiul li>' liii^ Itcin c.iniiisiil with lll-i lilMLhi'l . .I.Wtli-s Si'll'MiliTllft . Wlh) tll->.l lUiil ill till- \ill;i:.'<' llill wiis muiilfUMl !•>. a .lii!m 'r miiri'. ih I^Kl. in;Mn' u. sciiooLciiAFT. 71 jcn'-d iii his isljiiid honi*'; und Cluii'los Diirwiii, in hi> \vo|-l\, "TIk' l)<'S(;«Mit of iM?lii. " quotes willi up- |)io\-;il some opijiion ]\r liad rxpj'esst'cl, and calls iiiin ••:i most: capabki judiic " l*r()i', Silliman, also I'X IVesidt'iits .iolin Adams, Tlios. .It'tTcrson and .liiiiM's Madison, ^v^olo liim k^tlcrs of mai-kod ap proliation respect injjf a contiMbulion he had writicn In)' tlic American CJeoloirical Society, naiicroft >Miil'err(ul with liim hefoi-e ^vl•itill^'' tliose ])aits of ill-"' "I listory of tiie United Stat<s. " wlncli jMM'lain ii. ill" Intliaiis. and was in frecpient correspondence uilh him; and Tjonj-''fello\v. in liis lliawidlia Indian iii»|c«<. expresses his Sense <,\' oi)li«,'a,t ion to liim. S' >ine o I' SchoolcralTs h-ctin't^s wei-e translated into I" iich.and a piize was awarded liim hv tli«' Nat 'onal li.sl il nle o!' i<"'raiice. Amonu'" liis fre«|ii'Mit corres- |. hdents. as lie was an active ('liri>tiaii and in .s\inpathy with all church inieicsts. wei-e the s.'cretarJHS ()!' dilTeretit missionary soci<'ties in lli«' M.ist, se»'kin<4 Ills opinion and his coun>el in i-efcr- cnce to t he location of stations and the meihods (»f \\n •1; anion*? the Indian ti-ihes. r\\ ri le amount of liierary work lie accomplished was rehiarUahle. ("•|iecially iu view of his pulilic sei-\ic(>s, wlii< h niton I'ecniiied extensive journeys in distant wildei-- iit'ss reirions, and much of camp life, lie uas of iviiiurUahle physical via-o!- and industry, however, and it is said of him. that he had been known to \\ill.' from sun to sun almost (»very day for many yeai's. Mr. Schoolcraft i-'iiioved /rom the island t*. N.w NorK- in IKII. and after an extensive travel llu'ou,ii-h Europe, ae\uted hiujself principally t'> >^ 72 KAlil.^' MAC KIN AU literary worlc. fl*' ])ul>lislH'(l i\h()u\ tliii'ty dilTiMvin books. TlicBc ljn'<r<'ly ])t'i'l;rn!tMl lo his exploi-ni iitii>, tUid to sciciilitic. siil)j»'cls. 'J'Iip ('liicf jji-oducls ol iiis])«Mj ill i'('S[)('ct lo tin* Tiidiaus wci'O liis '"Ak-ic Ivost'iu'clios, "* and lah'i'liis very (»xtt'nsivo "b'.iliiKi lojU'ical Kcscarclics aiiioii*^' tlu^ K»'d Men." wliidi Nvas ])i'»'i)ar(Ml imdcr the dirtMiioii and ])alr(>nai:<' (i| Coii<'ro.ss. It i>; in six larirc* voIuiih's wiili over '.urn c( olDprd (Miii'i'aviims. and was issiiod in llir hot stylcM)!' llic jtrintt'f's art It is a thesaurus of in formation, and furnishes tli«' most complete mikI authenlic ti'eatmenltii(» sul).ieet lias ever i-eceived. Fnr ne.'irjy twenty years Mr. Schooici-aft li\i'i|;it Washiii.ii'tnn. and died th(3re in Dec.MMuher. I'^ill. Tlie IJev. Dr. Sunderland, for over l(U*ty \e;tr-> a I^reshyterian pastor in that city, lias said of liiiii: "lie Avas a nohle Christ ian man, and his last y>';[v> wcii'c spent ill the society of his friends and ainoii: his hooks '••■ * a liKxIest, retli-iiijET, Uliosteiitiil i< ii:> :m. but of de(>)), sincere pietyaiid i^really intercNi- m vd \n the welfare (»{' maidvind. K CTTAPTKU VI IT. Willi the cx'plonM*, llio triul.T juhI llio soldier, ill tli(^ early tliiys ol" 1h(» i^'rciicli occiipalion. Wu'vo (■;mi«) iilso the ]iiis.si()tKiry. Mor(» t,li:iii two centuries a.n'o ])i()!H'('r .l(!suil ])i-i«'sis planted tlie (TOSS in thoso wilds ot' tlip upper lak"s; lirst; at Saidt St(». Mari(\ as oarly as two Imiidred :iiid IjftN years siiieo. and tli.'u in it'iTl in our Michiliinaclcinac (■t\£ri<>n of St. T.L,'iia< •»','■ on the uoiMlii-ni luainlaiid. iour miles ac-i'oss from liie island. The hnier worl; is associated part iculai'l\' with Mar<|iiei !e. whi. lounded it, and w ht) was one of t ln' most h» i'( (ic and :|i'\nte(l of the early missionaries w ho cimie to i Iii> I MMlinent, from Fr;nic<». Ht» was a ^,eli<»lai' and a man of science, nee. irdiiijif to t he ;it 1aimii"nls<d" I !ia. day. It is said he was ac«piainied wil h .si x dilTerenI hin«4iiaLrcs. lie was held in re\ecent CSleem, l.nlh hy the saA'ajifes of the woods and hy t he i i-idei-s and ('iVlcerS of the set ! leiiieiils. 'J'o li is CM 1 1 U I'e, llis Ce- lini'ineid. and his spirituality were ailded the en thusiasm and dnrin.i,' «d' the explnrcr. Me ", .'ut oid to tiiul new (•(Hint ries as al><> to pre;icli in t iie pic mi wild; In H'lTIi. aeeoiiip;in eil IK 1 1 ' 1 . he Si ' ! forlli from SI. jirmice with a small eoinpaiiy in Iwi hark canoes, on ii lonu: vnyap' <»'' discovery. He Iruek out into T^alvt^ Michiiran. thence into the ri VIM'S of Wisconsin. and thence int<^ the Mississippi, and tloat'Ml down that, yreat ri\<'- as fai' as to ;, •rulUl IrO<lUOlS, UH ll WliS IllNl UlKlWIl. n m I KAIiLY MAClKLNAt' Itoiiii soiiM' tliirly miles Ix'low Ili<» moiitli of ih.' Arkansas riv<'i\ iilinoNt to II. o Louisiana liur, 'i'lifi't' 1 lir . soul hern Joui'!K\y was (Muled aiul lli.' iv Iiirti 1ii|) Avas Im'i^'iiii — a set n id in, '4" llio Missis.>,iii|il. (Milfi-in.L;* tlic Illinois and thus rcacliinn" LaK'c Mirlii.i^an a^^'-ain. I'»iil for Mar([ueit(' llic ti*i|) \v.l^ never linislicd. He died ;it a. point, on the easlfin slion» of tliat lake, about midway l>etW(MMi ils u]i)h r and lowi'i* ends, and was l)urie(l tlier(» by liis e\i'r lailhlul and devoted Indian (•om[)anions. '1',, ^ years al'liTwards liis body was (\\lnnned ;ii'd rt'\ rreiii ly tak'en baric for internuMit at llie St. Iii'nace Mission, wlii«di be had lon.iriJiiily de>iii'(i aii'ain to I'eacli. but bad die<l without, the siL-ht, The discovery of his «;i"ave in the ])i-esent lown d! Si. I«j:naee, in tlx' your 1.S77, lias «4:iven new inlei'-^i to tliat locality. ^^>llowin<,' tb(» tem])orary abandonment of tin l''reii(h post of Micbillmackinac in I7t>l, iindthei-' iiio\al of the seltleinenL to Detr;»it, as air wiv III'. \<' rt'fi'i'retl to, the St. Ijjfnace Mission \\as ,iri\t'n and the church burned by the piiesls theuisel in ft-ar 'est it siiould be sa<*i'ile«i'iously destroyed l'\ the s;i\a,L;'es. Sul>.se([Uenl ly. on tlie reeslahli >li iiit-nt (»f t he fort on ih(.' soutlu'rii penin>ula oppo>l!. t l',e ( 'at Iiolic mission was i'e\i\'ed and the Cliui ■!' of St. Ann was oi'^-ani/eil — the chui"<h and L'ld i re set thMiient of fiimili«\s,as well as t he «jrai'ris beiuy within the palisaib* enclosure. VVh< n \u 17^0 llu' fori was r<Muoved to the island — :M»d ;!> set I lers followln*r — the church was al.so remo\ii. itslo^sand tind»ers beinjj^ takeu tlowu separai' '\ and then rejointed and seL up a^rain. ll stood •• MADAM LA I'liAMIlOISK 75 tlio old Imryiii.i;- 1<»1 souili of llio pi-rscut Astor lloiiso. Sul)s«'(|ii(Mi1ly it was rcinovcil to another silc All iuUlilioii was iiiado OA'leiidiiiii: Its Nmi.l'IIi, :iii(l llu'old cliurcli coiiliiiucd to stand until it ^';i\t' \ \y 1o 11m! |>i"osont. Iar«^'<' cdiiict', hniit (»n tli*' same ^Mot, ill 1^74. As an ori^'ani/ation. lin\\('\',r. ili.> . iiiir(di dales Tar Imck to llic cai-ly days (>\it id Id Mii('l\iiia\v. 'J"*!!!^ ji: round on wliicli tlie i)uiidin",r iiow stands \vas a biwiucst to the jtaiisii by a Madam L:i l*'i'aud)ois(', wiio li\'< tl iifarhy, witii tliostij)ula ti. lu tliJit at. death Ikm' 1)o.Iv slioidd he l»nrii'(| undei- I III' t dial', ill ca^e the cliureh slioidd l)e rcino\t'd o llie places iiurKjated. Tiiis beii.i^- (h)ne, the coiidi- liniis of tlio ^viIl \vei'(> fultilled. M'liis Madam \\a> .'I Iiuli;>.u blood, mid the widow of a. I''!t'ii<h I'ur 1 1 ader. She Is reported to lia\'e been a woman o I' re- ii;ail\"al>le eneci:\- and elite ri)rise. ;ind on the(h>al h oj' li T liusband ably imma^y'ed tlio business be had l"!"!. She iieqiiiiuHl the rudiments of edueat ion after her i.iarria<jf(\ b(>in,i!: taiiirht by Ium- liusl):nui, and in later 3'ears ii.ad*' it a eustoin to i-eeeive youn.i; jiiipilsal lierhmiseto |ea<'h tliem to read and write. :ind also to inst ruc'li them in the ])i-inri]i!es (d' lier .•Ti«^ioii. Iler <lau<^'hter bei'auie tlie wiTecd' Tjit ul. ■ lohn S. Pierce, abr-otherof President l'iei'e(\ who Vvasaii olticer at tin- i^arrison in the early days, i-ir. IsiU 111 tlie early limes, the island Ix'in.L!: so remote . |»ioiie*'r |>t)iiit, aiul its ])o[uilation iiiea,iir(>, this •ish (lid ?H»l always lia\e a resident, priest, and lueli of the timo could only b(? visited by one ureo-idar and often tlistant intervals. In IT'^L', ])etitioii siufiied by the iin>rehants and other in T) EARLY MACKINAC. liabitJiiits of tho villajj:*', was aildrc^ssml to (UmkihI liaUlimaud, ilit^ Eiij^lisli CiovtTiior (Jend'al of Hie Province, asking that tho Govciiiinciit talcc sicps to iiid ill socuriniiT a cure, or nrmistci" of rcliiiidti. for tlic stated inaiiitfMiaiu'c of scrviccvs. Thcic ;t|i pears iiotliin«i^ to show that this wasiri'Jintcd. 'I'Im' fill" trad(^ broujifljt an citMiioiit of nopukilioii of a vciy mixed chai-actei". Tli«'j'(! wen* tlie ediicuhtl oHicrrs and clerks of Iht^ company, and iln' ri>i/(i(j('irr}i and ti'a})i)(M's, who spent most of IIm ir time in ihc woods and on the watei-. with ^Ia(•l^ill;k(■ as theii- place of i-estin**" and wau'ejiayment. ;iiiil Ihe [dare of the I'ccU'less wastini^ of liieic hard, cinit'd money. Oiu^ who Icnew well thc> early chai-actei' of the ishimh said of it. that few ])l;ii(,s on 1 he cont ineni liad l)e('n so celrbi-alcd a. I(»c.alitv for wild enjoyment; that tlie earnin.LTs of a. y»'a!' werc^ oflen speid. in tlu^ cai'onsals of a week" oi a day; tinit \]\o h)rdiy HiijfhlaiKh'i'. the hnp<>lii(»iis son of Krin. and tliH ])rond and indepcMidint lOn^lishman. did not (h> mneli Ix'tler on the scoiv of moral responsiliilit ies than the luniilile V(nj(f<icitrs and conrirr dcf^ hoi-^: tlial t h(\v hrolce ti'cMnr ally, iiiin' onl of tlie ten commandmenis withoiil a winee. hul kept tiie otliei* \ery scrnpidonsly, ami would llasli up tunl call thnir companions to a diifl wlio <loul)ted th(Mn on tluit point! ]*i-olestant Missions in tlie west f^radually took shape as the seltlenn'ut of tlui country advanced fi'om tho sead)oai-(l. The Ivev. David Hacon, of tli»' C'Onnecticmt Missioiuii-y Society, the father of th*' kite Dr'. Tjeonard liacon, preached on the island fni- a .short time as far back as 1x0:1; not, howcvci", e- ^ i < lOtl. KIMSCOPAL cmiall OKCAM/Kl^. I:il)lishii)*? 51 mission or oriiiitiiziiiir ;i cliurcli. 'I' ill l^l'O. the lit'V. .Icdidiali Morse. 1). I).. :i ('(>!i<ri-,.. iiatioiial iniiii.Nlrr, llir r.itli(«i- of llic invciitor nf the h'le,iri':ii>li system, visiled tlie island, and ni;ide a short stay. Tlie same Dr. Morse was the aiii hor ol •Morse's Geoiii-apliy," one*' e.\teiisi\»'ly n>ed in eiir st'iiools, and still well reiiiemi)ered. In earlier ye;ii"s the fori was a eliaplainey ])ost. and the •ler,u:ymaii in eharir<'. the Ivev. Mr. O'llrien. from l^l"-' nnlil the (»|ienini.,'' of tho cixil war in I'^Cd, conducted staled ser\ ices ol" t he l^|»isco|)al form of v.orsliin, which accommodatetl the people of ihe \illa.iro as well as tlie soldiers. Oiil of this Moric L'rew t he 'J^'inilv Episcopal Church, oriranized in 1^7.">. under the minisl ration of the Jv'ew Wm. (!. Sioiiex. who coininiied for some years tho resident iler^yman. l^'ora time ihe parish held its Sunday services in the fort chapel; then the old Court lloustO)uildin,Lr was used, and in l"^"*!' the present Trinity Cliurcli l)uildiii«j: was erected, under the leidei'sliip of the lt«>v. .M. C. Sliinley. 'I'his re mains still the only ()r,L:ani/,ed l*rote>taiil church on the island. it has. <i'iMierally. a j-osid. lit cieriiy- iii.'in in cliar;.;-e. 'Plie Ivt. Rev. Thomas J'\ l)a\ies. h.I)., bishop (d" the dioce.se of Michi<i'an. heinii" a slimmer coita^'cr on the island, ri'e(iuoiitiy oiliciatcs tlurin^i' the visitors" season. To H'o back' airain tctour earlier period. At the lime of Dr. Morsi's \i.^it lo the island, he was I mder commission !>>■ the P. S. •j:o\ erninei:t on a two \ ears' tour of observation and inspection amoni;- the va.i-ious Indian tribes with a, \ iew "to devist' the most suitable plan to ad\anc«' their civilization m KAKI.V MAfK'IXAC. and liiii)|>iii»'ss. " * I !«• ai'fivcd ill lln' islinid. .Im,.- l()lli. ill llic ('\»Miiii«i', jiiid wi-ih«s of llu' vn'\v ihiii :i'(M ■l.'d 1 lis (»y(' ill 1 lie iiionrmiT- 'tlu' fori look iii'JCdowii fi'oiii the hiiili hlulT. ;iiid a \U'v\ of Indian caiioos drawn up on t li«» hracii, alon«^ wliicii \\<i.' pilclM'd lilt}' or oin» Inindi'od lod«,'-os — coiic-sliiiiMd l)ariv lonis — tilled with liircc or four Iniinlivd Indians, ukmi, women and ehildren. coine to reci i\ llieir annuities fi'oin llie I'uiled Stales ( J()\erniii«'ii He remained a, lit t le o\er t wo we( ks and to trad(*. and ])i'<»aclied in tlie Court House to hiriLfv and :ii tentive audiences. A week' day school and a Sahhathx'linol were formed for tiie cliildn'n, and Mri'aiiJifcments effected foi' liihie Society and Tiai ' Society wiu'k. On his r(>tui'n to tlio East, tlif Tiiited l<\)reiii*n Missionary Society. Iearnin<if of liic situation, toolc steps toplant a mission at Mackinac. Tiie island was considered a strateiric. jioint for snc]i operations, even as previously it had hoeii a siraleuic situation from a mililai'v point of view. It was a central irat hei'in.ir place for the Indians lor liundre<ls of miles away as widl as from near :il liand. M'Ih' mission was estahlislnMJ in 1>'1'.'!. 'i'hc Uev. Win. l<\'rrv. a Presl)vtorian minist(M' fi'oiii tlic East, was ajipointed supei intendent. The Mission was dosi;L^ned ciru»fly as a school for 1 he 1 rainin.LT of Indian youth. It opened wiili twelv*' pupils. Tl m ^eco nd veai" It uuiiiImmv seventN. 'I'wo y<'ars after the openinir <'f 'li'' enterprise I he lariic school Imildinir and hoardii l: liouse, now tlie hot«d at tin.' oast end of the islaii'l, ♦Kruiii IrtiiT of iiistrucli(Mi> \\ littt-n him by .loliii C (.'ulhoiiii, H«ii<' taiv ..f Wur. I'V-h. IH'JO. G()OD AvoKK or Till-: sciioor.. 70 111 Mild boiiriiiL: lln' oi'i^^'iiial iiaiiic "Missidu Hnusc v\ as built. In 1 -iM) tlio Society which h;i<l Im'lh iho work ami inaiiitaincd it hn* three \r;;rs, \\;is iiici'Ljeil will) t he Aiiici'icaii I >oai'(l or('oMiini,s>i«»ii('r.s |,ii* J'\)reii4ii ^Missions. I h'licefoi-i h. until it ch^ed. l!ie MacK'inac Mission was the woiiv of tli;il I'oard \'. itli liead([tiarters in lloslon. For sexcral y«'ar.s !lii» iiltenchince at ihe >chi>«il averaged alioni one hun<lr<Ml and liltv a yeai*. Majoi* Andei-son. <»!' Ihe ( lo'. enuiient ser\i<-e, wriliii.u: in l>i'^, says Ihal V, lien this inis>ion biiildinir was elected it was Uioimht lo lie hir^»» elloULi'h to accoilllllo(hlte all w ho iniLiht de>ire its ))ri\ile<j-es, l)iit such wa.s the ihirsl !'or Knowle(lL;e. that the house was then full; ;iiid that at least lifty Umrc Ii;id sou.iihl a(liui>Ni(»ii ilial seas( n who could not In- i-ect-jxcd U>v l;icl\ of room. Besides the ludiiiients of Kii-li^'l' •'du'^at ion. the hoys wei'e laii.L'ht tlie more useful .sort of iiandi- 'laft and ti-ules, and the uirls were taiiii-ht sewinj.,^ :iiid housework. They wei-e at all limes undt-r • hristian inlluence, and were sysiemaiically in- >lnicted in the truths of the (hopel. In the I hou'i'apiiy <»f Mr>. .lei-einiah l*(Ut«'r. who heforc* iier inajM'iaji'*' was Miss ('happelh'. and wlio siteiii !\\oyt>ai"s (l.s;in '.)'2) on tlie ishind. is uiNeii an rx- iract from her diary, in w h 'cli slie speaK's of vi>il- ii!^' the Mission llous»' and heariuu: tlie youim" Indian .n'irls, at their eveiiin^^ lesson, repeat loo-rther llio -''>d l*salm and the :.."lh chapter of Isaiah, and of hearinir a iiymn sun.i; "'hy sixteen swe(»t Indian Noices which was particularly toii<-li Thomas L. McKei.nev. of the huliai' Depart- L injr, •' r « IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) A // 4^; :/ ! 1.0 Ifl^ WM I.I 11.25 1.4 |2£ 1.6 '^-^ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 W<T' T MAIN STR6FT WEFSTER.N.V. 14580 r/16) 872-4S03 '^s \ 80 EARLY iMACKINAC. mcMit, c:ivos another iiit(M-estin<,^ ^liinpse oi ilio school in his book, "Skolclios of a. Tour to tlic Lakes," published in 1H27. He had been ^^eiit out, tlio year before, from Washin<?ton a.3 joint com- iiiissioner with General Cass in negotiating a Ircaiy with the Indians of the North. Having touched ;il Maclvinac he describes his calling, in company Avilli Mr. Robert Stuart, at "the Missionary establisli- ment in charge of Mr. P^erry." Tlie school family were at supper, and he writes, "we joined tliem in their prayers, which are olfered after this meal." On another day he again visited the school, and iv- ported of it: "Tlie buildings are admirably ada])t- ed for the object for which they were built. Tliey are composed of a center and two wings— the center is occupied chiefly as the eating depai-tment and the offices connected therewith. Tlie western Aviiiji: accommodated the family. In the eastern wiii.u" are the school rooms, and below, in the ground story, are apartments for shoemakers and other manufactures. In the girls' school were seventy- three, from four to seventc^en years old. In personal cleanliness and mnitness, in behavior, in attainments in vai'ious branches, no children, white or I'ed, excel them. TJie boys' school has about eighty, from four to eighteen. One is from Fond du Lac, upwards of seven hundi'ed miles. Another from the Lakii of the Woods. How far they have come to get liglit !'' Referring to the Superin- tendent, Mr. Fei'ry, he speak's of him in terms of unqiuilitied a})[)r()bation. ''Pew men possess liis skill, his qualification, his industry and devotion to the work. Such a pattern of practical industry VffBW '^ THE MISSION CHURCH. 81 is without price in such iin establishment. Indeed, the entire mission family appeared to mo to have undertaken this most interesting chai-ge fi-om the purest motives." He makes menticm of Mrs. Kobert Stuart as "an excellent, accomplished and intelligent lady, whose soul is in this v.'ork of inoi'cy. Tliis school is in her eyes, the green spot of the island. With her influence and means she has held up the hands that were ready, in the !)(\ginning of this establishment, to hang down. She looks upon Mr. Perry and his labors as being worth more to the island than all the land of which it is composed; whilst he, w^ith gratitude, mentions her kindness, and that of her co-operating hus- band. '' Mrs. John Kinzie, already referred to as being on the island in 1830, visited the Mission, and in her book makes similiar testimony concerning it, saying among other things: "Through the zeal mid good management of Mr. and Mrs. Ferry, and lite fostering encouragement of the congregation, the school was in great repute."' A church for the island soon grew out of the .school. It was Presbyterian in name and form. It was a branch of Mr. Ferry's worli, and he was the pastor during the wliole time he remained on the island. A church building, the historic "Old Mission Church," still standing in its original dimensions and appearance, was built in 1829-30. Mackiu'ic in those days shared with Detroit in distinction, the two towns being almost the only i)laces of note in tlie State of Michigan. The Fur Company's business, together with the general 82 EARLY MACKINAC. tra.dini2^ ititorests which centered here, brouj^iit to the island a consider;' ble po])ulation. Thus lai-ge and interesting coni!:regations were furnished for this church. Besides the teachers and tboii- families, and the pupils of the mission school, there were many families of the village, officers and clerks of the company, traders, native Indian converts and others, wlio were m<3mbers in r(\<4"ulai' attendance. The military post, too, used to ho represented — olticers and men coming down tho street on Sunda}^ mornings in mai'tial step. The soldiers w^ould stack their guns outside in front of the cliurch; one of the men would be detailed to stand guard over the arms, w^iile the others would file into the pews set apart for their accommoda- tion. The whole number of members enrolled during the history of the church was about eighty, exclu- sive of the mission family. As a pioneer church on the wilderness frontier, it was remarkable in having on its membership roll, and among its otfico bearers as Ruling Elders, two men of such slund- ing and public name as Robert Stuart and Henry R. Schoolcraft. The jNIackinac experiment of mission work'. unfortunately, was not continued long enough to show the largest results. Changes took place on the island which seriously affected tlie situation. It ceased to be the great resort for the Indians it had been at first. The Michigan lands were coming in demand for settlement; and the Govei'n- ment was deporting some of the tribes to reserva- tions farther West. Mr. Astor retired from the STORY OF CHUSKA. 83 Fur Company, and that business lost its former magnitude. This involved the loss of many families and a change in social conditions. In 18-34, Mr. Perry removed from the island.* as did Mr. Stuart, the same year. Thus, for a variety of n^asons the place ccjasing to be an advantageous point for the work, it was deemed best to dis- continue it; and about 1H;]6 the land (some twelve acres) and the buildings thereon were sold, and in 1837 the Mission was formally given up. During the brief history of the school, however, not less than five hundred children of Indian blood and hab- its acquired the rudiments of education, and were taught the pursuits and toils of civilized life, and many became Christians. Thi^ American Board at that time considered that the Mackinac Mission had been very successful, especially in its out- reaching influence throughout the surrounding regions. One instance of remarkable conversion in the •vork of the Mission, was that of an old Indian necromancer or "medicine man." His name was Wazhuska, or more poi)ularly,Chuska. For 40 years he had been famous on tlie island in the practice of that mysterious occultism which has often been found among low and barbarous races. He was supposed by his people to have sui)ei'natural power, and indeed the instances which have been reported of his strange facility, seem remai"kahl«'. A sorcerer he might have been called, or, as such iiave also been designated, a "practitioner of the *Mr. Ferry settled at wh;it beeame Grand TIa\<ui, iu Mii*hi;:an. himsolf founrtiu;? the city and also its Presbyteriim Church, and con- tinued to reside there until his death in ISfiT. I*. 84 EARLY MACKINAC. black art.*' He embraced the Christian faith \\\\\\ cleaj i)erception of its essential truths, and Miih ^reat simplicity of spirit; and entirely renouncfd all his "hidden works of darkness," to^-ethc^r w'wh the vice of drunkenness to which he had been lam- entably addicted, and after a year of testing' aiul probation w^as admitted to inembership in t!n> Mission Church. He died in 1837, and was l)uri(Hl on Round Island. This story of Chuska and liis conversion by the power of divine f^race, was con- sidered of such interest that we find it related by Schoolcraft in three of his books — his "Person;il Memoirs,'' his "Oneota," (a collection of miscelhmy which tells of Chuska under the heading "The Magician of the Manitouline Islands,'") and in his elaborate six volume w^ork published by act of Congi-ess. In his account of the case as given in the last named publication he furnishes r(^pres(>ii- tations of the crude pictographic charms, iLii!l totmns and symbols, which Chuska w^as accustoiutnl to use in his pagan incantations, and which at tlu' tim;i of his conversion he had surrendered to Mr. Schoolcraft. The tale of Chuska is also told by Mrs. Jameson in the naiTative of her visit to Alackinac in 1835; and in Strickland's "Old Mack- inaw." The Mission given up, the school closed, the teachers and their families gone, the trade and em- porium character of the village falling away, the church organization did not long survive. There was no successor of Mr. Ferry in the pastorate. Mr. Schoolcraft, as an office bearer in the church, and always actively interested in its welfare, did all THE OLD CIIUUCH. 85 tliat alaymim, so fully occupied as he, could do for its maintenance, often conducting a Sabbath service and reading a sermon to the people from some good collection. But so largely losing its families by removal, and unable under existing conditions to secure a pastor, the clmrch organization became extinct. The church building, however, the ''Old Mission Church" as it is familiarly known to this day, has survived for sixty years the lapse of the organization. It is probably the oldest Protestant Church structure in the whole Northwest. And while other ancient church buildings have been en- larged and changed in the course of years; an ex- tension put on, or a front or a tower added, or other material alterations made; this one, from end to end, and in its entire structural form, remains the same as at the time of its early dedication. It has stood four square to all the winds that hav^e blown, as ' 'solid as the faith of those who built it, "* unchanged from its original style audits bare and simple ap- pearance, with its old weather-vane and its wond- erfully bright tin-topped belfry — a mute memorial of a most worthy history of tw^o generations ago. Despite its disuse and its increasing dilapidation, it has long been an object of tender interest, and has been visited by hundreds every season. It is gratify- ing, therefore, to know that a number of the summer cottagers and other visitors, joined by some of the island residents, have purchased the old church, and repaired and restored it so as to present the old-time appearance in which it had been known *Miss Woolson's ■Anne" 86 EARLY MACKINAC. for well ni^h seventy years.* The gray weather- worn exterior is pur])osely left unpainted. The same old "hiijfh-up" pulpit, the plain square pews with doors on them, the diminutive panes of f?lass m the windows, tlie quaint old-fashioned j2^allery at the entrance end — all these features appear as at the first. The projierty is held in trust for the purchasers by a board of seven trustees, five of wliom are to be visitors who own or rent cotta^os, and two to bo residents of the villa^-e. There is no ecclesiastical oi-^anization in connection with the building, nor any denominational color or con- trol. The motive in the movement has been, first, to preserve the old sanctuary as a historic relic of the island and memorial of early mission work; and. second, to use it as a chapel for union religious services during the few weeks when summer tourists crowd the island. *Repaii'ed and restored in 1S95. ^^ CHAPTER IX. Our Island in its dimensions is three miles east and west, and two miles north and south. It has a crescent shaped harbor, which gives the same out- line to the village nestling on the rounded beach. There can be few places so small and circumscribed that can furnish so many pleasing nnpressions. In its antiquarian interest, in its unlikeness to tiio out- side world, in its dim traditions, and in its entranc- ing charms of natural scenery, there is found every variety for the eye, the taste and tlie imagination. While small enough to steam around it in an hour on the excursion boats, it is j^et large enough to ad- mit of long secluded walks through its quiet, gentle woods. In the three score years or more that visi- tors have been coming here, there have grown up for it such tributes and terms of admiration as^ Gem of the Straits, Fairy Isle, Tourists' Paradise, Princess of the Islands, and such like. Rising almost perpendiculaily out of the water, one hundred and fifty feet high, with its wliite stone cliffs and bluffs, and twice that height back on the ci'est of the hill, and covered with the densest and greenest foliage, it is an object of sight for many miles in every direction. Through- out we find that development and variety of beauty which nature makes when left to herself. The trees are the maple, and pine, and birch, and old beeches with strait and far-reaching branches and with 87 8B EAUI.Y MACKINAC. rugged trunks, on which can bo seen initials and dates running back many ytnirs — tlie mementos of visitors of long ago. Tlie hardy cedar abounds alx >. and the evergiHMMi spi'uce, larch and laurel, and lamarack. Throughout the woods running in different directions, ai'o winding roads, arched and shaded by the overhanging tree-tops, as if they were continuous bowers, and bewitching fool- paths and trails; the fragrance of the fir and the balsam is every whei-e, and a buoyancy in ilit* atmosphere which invites to walking — the avIioIb tract being safe, always, for even children to wander in. You come upon patches of the delicate wild strawberry with its aromatic flavor, the wild rose, the blue gentian, profuse beds of daisies, said to be of tlie largest variety in America, tin' curious ''Indian pipes," luxuriant ferns in daiK' nooks, forever iudden from the sun, and thickest coverings of moss on rocks and old tree trunks. Then always, from every quarter and in every direction, are to be seen tlie great waters of tiie lakes, so many "seas of sweet water, " asthey woj'e described by Cadillac, the early Fi'ench commander in this region — Huron to the east and Michigan on the west, with the Mackinac Straits between, and all so deep, so pure, so beautifully colored; and whether in the dead calm, when smooth as a floor, or shimmering and glistening in the sunshine, or in tlie silvery sheen of the moon at night, oi" again tossing and billowing in the storm — always exercising the power of a spell upon the behcjlder. Ever in sight, too, ai-e the neighboring islands, standing out in the midst as masses of living green; CUIIIOSITIES IN STONE. 89 and the li,ij:lit- Ikhisos with their faithful, friendly niirht work; and tlie young ei1i(\s on the two mainlands in opposite dire(5tions; and always the l)ictnresque old fort. Then, scattei-ed over tlie islands are «^lens, and dells, and springs, and fan- tastic rock formations, ( "rock-osities" tliey were s )metiines facetionsly caUed in early days.) Many of the.se formations are interesting in a geological point of view as well as for their mai-ked appear- ance and their legendary associations; and two of them, Sugar Loaf and AvvA\ Rock, have heon niucii studied by scientists, and ari? pictured in certain college text books to illustrate the teachings of natural science. On tliC eastern part of the island you come on certnhi openings which the earlier French t(n'm- ed Grande Jardins. Schoolcraft says no resident pretended to know their origin; that they had evidently becni cleared for tilling purposes at a very eiu'lv dav, and that in his time tliei-e v»ere mounds of stones, in a little valley near Arch Rock, which resembled the Scotch cairns, and which he suppcjses W'Cre the stones gathered out in the preparation of these little fields. These openings continued, at times, to be utilized for planting purposes to a period within the memory of per.sons now living on the island. For a long time past, however, they have been left alone, and nature has beautifully adorned them with a very luxuriant and graceful growth of evergreen trees and parteri'es of juniper in self -arranged grouping and order, making each such place appear as if laid out and 90 KARLY MACKINAC, cultivated on the most artistici pkiiis of landscape gardening. For summer comfort — that is, for the escape of heat and the enjoyment of sifted, clean, delicious air — there can be no i)lace excelling. As an old- time frecpienter once said of it: '"It nmst be air that came from Eden an 1 escaped the cnrse. " The hnmense bodies of Avater in the n<>ckla('e of lakes thrown about the ishiud become tlie regula- tor of its temperature. Tlu^ only C()m[)laint that visitors ever niiike of the climate, is that it is not quite warm enough, and tliat blanlcets can not b(^ "put away for the summer," but are in niglitly requisition, and that the "family hearthstone" claims July and August as part of its Avorkini:: season. Malaria and hay fever ai'e unknown. Dr. Daniel Drake, of Cinciniuiti, an eminent medical authority in his day, tlius wrote from the island: "To one of jtided sensibilities, all around him is re- freshing. A feeling of security comes over hlni, and when, from the rocky battlements of Foi't Mackinac, he looks down upon the surrounding wastes, they seem a mount of defense against the host of annoyances from which In^ h;id sought refuse — the liistoric assochitions, riot less than the scenery of the island, being well titled to maintaiu the salutary mental excitement."" Tlie island has its legends, and folk-lore, and traditionar}' tales of romance and tragedy. There is not so much of this, however, as many suppose. * "Treiitlse oa the Principiil Disouses of North America." p. 318. ''HytfL'iii, too, shaulcl phiee her temple here; for It has oue of the purest, driest, cleaue.st aud most healthful atmospheres. "—Sc/jooJcra/^ SUGAR LOAF. 91 It is smiiU in area and its scope for scenes, and tales, and associations is limited. Reference lias iilready been made to Arch Rock as the gateway of entrance, in the Indian mind, for their Manitou of the lakes, when he visited the island, and to Sugar SUC.AR LOAF- Loaf as his fancied wigwam, and to other rock formations which towered above the ground and were personltied into watching giants. The Devil's Kitchen, on the soutliwest beach, has also been mentioned, but as divested of all mystery and as- •A 92 EARLY MACKINAC. ! 'i sociation with the dim and early past. Chimnoy Rock and Fairy Arch are but appropriate names for interesting natural objects. The lofty, jutting cliff known as Pontiac's Look-out, is undoubte<l]y an admirable look-out spot, and is often so used now, as it probably often was in the days of Indian strifes when canoes of w^ar jiarties went to and fro over the waters of the Straits. But Ave can not vouch for its ever having been Pontiac's watcli- tower; for although the influence of that chieftain was felt in these remote parts, his home was near Detroit, and while we read of his travelling to the East and the South, and as having had part in the battle of Brad dock's defeat near Pittsburgh, we find nothing to show that he had ever been so fai* north as our island, or at least had ever sojourned there. Lover's Leap, rising abruptly 145 feel above the lake, is too good a pinnacle, and too suitable for such sadly romantic purpose, as far ns precipitous height and frightful rocks beneath are concerned, not to have suggested the tale of tlie too faithful, heart-sore Indian maiden. The stoiv of Skull Cave has already been told; and allhoii'ili a pi»>ce of lilstory, as far as the name of Henry tlu> trader ii'^uresin it, shoukl be justly regarded with as much interest as if it belonged to myth and fable. But at the same time, with all tlie moditi cations which a sober realism may demand, there is b(^9:otlen in the mind of every one who breathes the soft and dreamy air, and surrenders himself to the witchery of the little island, an impression of the Wierd, and the mystical, and the poetic, however little defined and embodied it may be. This ini- pr( ed tutl a SI I I i ARCH ROCK. 93 pression is increased in the sense of charm impart- ed by the dim and shadowy past of a noi)le but ini- tutored race of nature's children in connection witli a spot of such rare attractiveness, and which, dis- ARCH ROCK. similar in formation and character from all the other land about, seems as though it were separate from the ordinary seats of life. Arch Rock has long been celebrated. It ap- 94 EARLY MACKINAC. pears as if hanging in the air, a) id as a caprice of nature. It is a part of the precipitous cliff-siclc, and stands a hundred and forty feet above the water's edge. It has been accounted for by the more rapid decomposition of the lower than of the upper parts of the calcareous stone bank — which process, however, it used to be thought, was fast extending to the whole. McKenney in his "Tour of the Lakes," published in 1827, thus writes: **This arch is crumbling, and a few years will deprive the island of Michilimackinac of a curiosity which it is worth visiting to see, even if this were the only inducement." The latter remark is most true but we are glad he was so mistaken in the first part of his sentence. The arch has survived the unfortunate prophecy for seventy years, and bids fair still to hold on. It is true, however, tliat soma portions may have fallen, and the surface of the cross- way been redu<'ed, since the days when boys played on it, and when, according to an early tradition, a lady rode horse-back over the span. Sugar Loaf is another curiosity in stone; conical in shape, like the old-fashioned form in which hard, w^hite sugar used to be prepared. In- cluding the plateau out of which it rises, it is two hundred and eighty- four feet high, erect a:id rugged, in appearance somewhat between a pyra- mid of Egypt and an obelisk. Like tlie Arch, it is a "survival of the fittest" — the softt^r sub- stance about it being worn away and carried off in the process of geological changes, and leaving it solitary among the trees. Robinson's Folly is the lofty, broad and blunt ROBINSON S FOLLY. 95 ^V precipitous cliff at the Etist end of the island, one liundred and twenty -seven feet above the beach. The origin of the name is uncertain, save that it is associated in some way with the English Captain Robinson (Robertson) who belonged to the fort garrison for seven years, and, as already mentioned, was its commandant from 1782 to 1787. There are no less tiian five traditionary stories, or legends, in explanation of the name. Tliese stories vary from the prosaic and trifling, to the very romantic and tragical. A C(mimon account is that he built a little bower house on the very edge of the cliff w^hich ho made a place of resort, and revelry may- hap, in summer days; and that once, either by a gale of wind or by the crumbling of the outer lodge of stone, the house foil to the beach bolow. One version of the legend lias Robinson himself in the house at the time, and, like a devoted soa captain "going down with his ship," dashed to death in the fall. Another is that on one occasion v.'hon a feast and carousal wore projected on the < iff, and when the tilings of good cheer w^ore all in r adiness, and the participants, led by their host, delaying for a little their arrival, some lurking Indians, watchful and very hungry, stole a march on the company and devoured all that was in sight. T^e other tales are of a different hue. One is, that once walking near this spot the Captain t houglit he saw just before him, and gazing at him, a beautiful maiden. In attempting gallantly to approach her, slie kept receding, and walking backwards as she moved she came dangerously \. 96 EARLY MACKINAC. near the edge. Rushing forward to hor rescuo. the girl proved to be b\it a phantom and dissolved into thin air, while the impetuous captain Avas dashed to death on the rocks below. Yet anothec is of this order: That Captain Robinson had been one of the garrison force at tlie old fort across tin* Straits at tiie time of the massacre in 1763, and liad been saved by an Indian girl who w^as exceedingly attached to him. After removing to the island, and bringing a white bride there, the Indian girl followed him and dwelt in a lodge lie had built for her on the brow of the great cliff, nursing her jealous^?^ and revenge. She begged one last inter- view with him before leaving the place forever. On the Captain's granting this, and standing beside her on the edge, she suddenly seized his arm in her frenzy and leaped off, dragging him with her to death. There is one more of this harrowingly tragical kind, in the attempt to explain the naming, which had much currency in earlier days, and is given in tourists' notes of sixty years ago: That Robinson had married an amiable and attractive Indian girl. Wintemoyeh, the youngest daughter of Peezhicki, a great war chief of the Chippewas, and had brought her to his home at th^ fort. This aroused the deadly hatred of Peezhicki, who had reserved the girl for one of the warriors of his tribe. Robinson celebrated the marriage by giving a banquet feast i'l his bower on the cliff. The bride was present, and a company of guests. The father learned of the feast and concealed himself in the cedar bushes to shoot the man who had taken his daughter. poig •immi ROBINSON S FOLLY. 97 A faithful sergeant, (the story even gives his name, MacWhorter,) was present and saw the Indian level his gun. He sprang up to protect the Captain, and himself received the shot and fell dead. Robinson then grappled with the fierce chief, and in the struggle the two men came dangerously near the brow. The Indian, with his tomahawk raised, took a step or two backward to get better poise for his blow. This brouglit him to the very edge. A piece of stone gave way and he fell, but saved himself by catching at the projecting root of a tree. The girl now seeing her husband safe and only her father in danger, sprang forward to his help. He was thus able to raise himself to where she stood. Then seizing her around the waist, lie dashed off from the clitf and both perished to- gethei*. The first two of these stories concerning the famous cliff, might very naturally suggest the name "Folly." But the others smack more of profound tragedv, spiced with romance. Of course, Robinson was not in the massacre affair of long before, across the straits; he being at that time in army service, under Gen. Bouquet, against the Indians in Eastern Pennsylvania. That he met his death on the island by falling over the cliff, or even in a more normal manner, is a supposition only, without any evidence. There is reason to suppose he still "lived to fight another day" after leaving the Island post. It may be added, too, that at the period of his Mackinac command he had already seen over thirty years of service in the English army, and was no longer in the romance 98 EARLY MACKINAC. and lively heyday of youth. There must, however, have been something about a summer bower or hut, and something about feasting, and something about a dreadful fall, which illustrated the "folly'" of establishing a pleasure resort on the very brow of a dreadful precipice. Viewed together, theso stories all become interesting as throwing sonnr light on the origin of myths, and as showing how traditions, exceedingly variant, may yet have some of the same threads running through them all. But I would not philosophize. I simply rehearse these stories, the trivial and the grave, and leave them to the imagination and the choice of the reader. 1 >A CHAPTER X. Prom an early day tlie island's charm of sylvan and water scenery and its delightful sum- mer air, together with its historical associations and its flavor of antiquity, gave it a wide-spread fame. There are but few places anywhere in our country that are older as tourist resorts. Seventy and eighty years ago visitors were coming here, despite the difficulty and tedium in tiiat time, of reaching so remote a point. Persor.s of high distinction in public life and in the walks of litera- ture, and travelers from foreign countries, were often among the visitors; and oui* island has figur- ed in many descriptive books of travel. As some of these authors wrote so appreciatingly of the island, and as those particular books of long ago are now out of print and not easily accessible, I think the readers of this sketch will be i:)loased to see a few extracts. These writers all speak of having known the island by reputation in advance of their coming, and of being drawn by its fame. In 1843, the Countess Ossoli, better' known as our American Margaret Fuller, of Boston, spent nine days in Mackinac, as part of a protracted journey she made in the northwest, and which slie detailed in her book, "Summer on the Lakes." She expressed in advance her pleasurable anticipa- tion of "the most celebrated beauties of the island of Mackinac;" and then adds her tribute to "the 99 100 EARLY MACKINAC. excoediHg boiiiUy of the spot and its position." She arrived at a time when nearly two thousand Indians (and "more coming every day") were en- camixjd on the beach to receive their annual pay- m(\its from the government. As tlie vessel came into the harbor "the Captain had some rockets let off which greatly excited the Indians, and their wild cries resounded along the shores." The island was "a scene of ideal loveliness, and these wild forms adorned it as looking so at home in it." She represents it as a "pleasing sight, after the raw, crude, staring assemblage of houses every- wiiere sure to be met in this country, to see the (jld French town, mellow in its coloring, and with the harmonious effect of a slow growth wliich assimilates naturally with objects around it. " Con- cerning Arch Rock, slie says: "The arch is per- fect, whether you look up through it from the lake, or down through it to the transparent waters." She both ascended and descended "the steep and crumbling path, and rested at the sum- mit beneath the trees, and at the foot upon the cool mossy stones beside the lapsing wave." Sugar- Loaf rock struck her as having ' 'the air of a helmet, as seen from an eminence at the side. The rock may be ascended by the bold and agile. Half way up is a niche to which thosa, who are neither, can climb a ladder. " The woods she describes as "very full in foliage, and in August showed the tender green and pliant leaf of June elsewhere." She gives us a view from the bluffs on the harbor side: "I never wished to see a more fascinating jiicture. It was an hour of the deepest serenity; IP A SCENE ON THE BEACH. 101 bright bluo and gold with rich shadows. • Every momnnt the sunlight fell more mellow. The Indians were grouped and scattered among the lodges; the women preparing food over the many small fires; the children, half naked, wild as little goblins, were playing both in and out of the water; bark canoes upturned upon the beach, and others coming, their square sails set and with almost arrowy speed." And a familiar picture is this: "Those evenings we were happy, looking over the old-fashioned garden, over the beach, and the pretty island opposite, beneath the growing moon." A two-volume book, (published anonymously and giving no clue to its author, except that he was a practicing physician of New York City), titled "Life on the Lakes, or a Trip to the Pictur- ed Rocks," describes a visit to Mackinac in 1835.* "Though the first glance," he says, "at any looked for object is most ahvays disappointing, it is not so when you first see Mackinac." A moonlight view of the island from the waters, he thus describes: "The scene was enchanting; the tall white cliif, the whiter fort, the winding, yet still precipitous pathway, the village below buried in a deep, gloomy shade, the little bay where two or three small, half -rigged sloops lay asleep upon the water." It reminded him of descriptions he had read of Spanish scenery, "where the white walls of some Moorish castle crown the brow of the lofty . Sierra." In describing his stay on the island he K *The author is supposed to have been Dr. Chandler R. Gilman, of the College of Physicians and Surgeons, New York. p 102 EAUr.Y MAOK'TNAC. makos interostlnir m(»n1ion of ;i Sunday sorviro he iittendcd at tlm Old Mission Chui'ch. H<^ reports Iho building as noat and commodious, thou.urli tho oong-rofifation was small. TIi(M'(» was no Prolostanl. cici'fryinan on ilie island, but Mr. Schoolcraft (tlie ruling oldei* of tli(5 church) conducted tho service and read from some book a very f^ood sevmcm. Tho siniiing of the choir was excellent, and was led by a ser^^'eaut of the fort. The whole appear- ance of tlH3 congregation, he thought, was veiy striking; officers and i)i"ivates of the gari'ison, with the marks of rank of the one class, andtln^ plainer nniforms of the other, were mingled together in the body of the church; there were well-dressed ladies and gentlemen of the village along with those of simpler attire; and hei'o and thei-e were Indians wearing blankets, and standing about the doors weie others of that race in tlieir (ji'dinary savaire dress. He mentions in evident astonishment, and as conveying a hint about the island climate, his eating cherries and currants in Mi*. Schoolcraft's garden in the mcmth of September. And as a piece of harmhvss pleasantry, we may give yet another of his observations of sixty-two yeai's ago: "There are moi'e cows in Mackinac than in any other place of its size in tlie known world, and ever-^ cow has at least one bell." English visitors in their tours of observation through the United States were often drawn thither — making the long journey to these upper lakes, and stopping off to see the island of whose fame they had heard. Captain Marryatt, first an oi kil tol iiil i • 1 on ■ ths th( in\ find and call M MINk. CAPTAIN MARRY ATT. 103 officer of celebrity in tilt » EnL,^lish navy, but more known ill this country as a novelist largely given to sea tales, was here in the summer of \K]7. In liis "Diary of America" he writes of Maclvinac: "It has the api)earance of a fairy island floating on the water, which is so pure and transparent TANGLEWOOD that you may see down to almost any depth, and the air above is as pure as the water that you feel invigorated as you breathe it.* The tii'st reminis- *Marryatt's uclmlratlon of the transparent waters sutfgests what i find related of a certain lady of Ion;,' a^ro, that onoe sailing in the harbor and yazinK with rapt fonduossinto the pellucid depths, she enthusiasti- cally exclaimed; •Qh, I could Avish to ue drowned in these pure, beauti- ful waters! " f 104 EARLV MACKINAC. cence brought to my mind after I had landed was the description b}' Walter Scott of the island and residence of Magnus Troil and his daughters Minna and Brenda, in the novel, 'The Pirate.'" The a]ipearance of the village streets, lai-gely given to sails, cordage, nets, fisli barrels and the like, still further suggested tlie resemblance to his mind, and he says he might have imagined himself 'transferred to that Shetland Tsle, had it not been for the lodges of the Indians on the beach, and the Indians themselves, either running about or l^^ing on the porches before the whisky stores. " Th<M'e were also two lady visitors here from England, in the days of early Mackinac: Mrs. Jameson and Miss Harriet Martineau. Both have high rank and distinction in English literature. Each of them published her impressions of Mack- inac after roturning home. In their admiration and enthusiasm for the island they could not be surpassed by the most devoted American visitor who ever touched these shores. Mrs. Jameson is well known as the Avriter of such books as, "Sacred and Legendary Art," "Legends of the Madonn*'," '•Essa3^s of Art, Literature and Social Morals." "Memoirs of the Early Italian Painters," etc. Miss Martineau was of more vigorous intellect, and her writings deal more with subjects of political economy and social i)hilosophy. She it was, too, who translated and introduced into England the "VN'ritings of the French philosophcn- Comte. As both these books which touch on Mackinac, writ,ten over sixty years MRS. JAMESON. 10a ■t, lie \>u ;s Id le Is i ago, were descriptive of tra/els, and not of tlie same general interest which attaches to their other writings, they are now out of print and have be- come rare. Mrs. Jameson's visit was in the summer of 1835. She came up Lake Huron from Detroit by steamboat, and arrived in tlie harbor at early dawn. She thus describes hor first view of the island as she had it from the deck of the vessel: "We were lying in a tiny bay, crescent-shapod. On the east the whole sky was flushc^l with a deep amber glow flecked wltli softest shadows of rose color, the same sx)lendor reflected in the lake; and between the glory above and the glory Ijelow stood the little missionary church, its light spire and belfry defined against the sky." She sjieaks of the "abrupt and picturesque heights robed in richest foliage," and of the "little fortress, snow-white and gleaming in the morning light;" of an encamp- ment of Indian wigwams, ("picturesque dormi- tories," she calls them) up and down the beach on the edge of the lake which, "transfused and un- ruffled, reflected every form as in a mirror, * * an elysian stillness and balmy serenity enwrapping the whole." And, again, we hear her speaking of "the exceeding beauty of this little paradise of an island, the attention which has been excited by its enchanting scenery, and the salubrity of its sum- mer climate. " Mrs. Jameson made quite an extended stay at Mackinac, the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Schoolcraft, at their home in the Old Agency — "The house em- bowered in foliage, tlie ground laid out in gardens, I ; ] ■ > 106 EARLY MACKINAC. the gate opening on the very edge of the lake." She pictures Mrs. Schoolcraft with "features decidedly Indian, accent sHghtly foreign, a soft, plaintive voice, her language pure and remarkably elegant, refined, womanly and unaffectedly pious." ONE O'r THE DRIVES- She saw the island throughout, taking tramps over it and "delicious drives," and writes of it as "won- derfully oeautiful — a perpetual succession of low, rich groves, alleys, green dingles and bosky dales." After her glowing description, she sums up by saying, "It is a bijou of an island. A little i'/.'ffi-sriTiiar**, , MISS MARTINEAU. 107 bit of fairy f^round, just snch a 1hin^ as some of our amateur travelers "vvonld like to pocket and run away Avith (if they could) and set down in the midst of Iheir fish ponds; skull-cave, wl^jfwams, Indians and all." Miss Martineau spent two years in this coun- try, traveling extensively through the States and writing her impr(\ssions. She published t^^o boo!\S as the outcome of this journeying, ''Society in America." and afterwards, Ikm* ''Retrospect of Western Travelinii*. " It was in Jul v. 18.'](), that she visited Mackinac, and it is in the first named of these two book's that she tells of it. She came by way of Lake Michigan, from Chicago, traveling in a slow-going sail-vessel, and ajij^roached the island in the evening towards sun-setting time. As did Mrs. Jameson, so Miss Martineau first jVictures it as view^ed from the vessel: "We saw a white sjieck before us; it was tlie barracks of Mackinaw, stretching akmg the side of its green hills, and ck\arly visible before the town came into view. The island looked enchanting as we approa/'hcd, as I think it always must, though we had the ad- vantage of seeing it lii'st steeped in the most golden sunshine Ihat ever hallowed lake or shore. " The day of her arrival w^as the 4th of July, and, "The colors were up on all the little vessels in the harbor. The national flag sti-eanied from the garrison. The soldi<^rs thronged the walk's of Ihe bai-racks; half-bref^l boys w^n'e paddling al)out in their caiKxvs, in the transparent waters; tlie lialf- French, half- Indian population of the i)lace were 108 EARLY MACKINAC. all iibroad in their bust. An Indian lodge was on the sliore, and a picturesque dark group stood be- side it. Tlie cows were coming down the steep green slope to the milking. Nothing could be more bright and joyous." Describing the appearance of the village, she took note of some of the old French houses, "dasky and roofed with bark. The better houses stand on the first of the three terraces which are distinctly marked. Behind them are swelling gn^en knolls; before them gardens sloping down to the narrow slip of white beach, so that the grass seems to grow almost into the clear rippling waves. There were two small piers with little barks alongside, and piles of wood for the steam- boats. Some way to the right stood the quad- rangle of missionary buildings, and the white missionary church. Still further to the right was a shrubby precipice down to the lake; and beyond, the blue waters." She did not leave the vessel that evening, but some of the party having met the commandant of 11) e fort, an engagement was made for an early walk in the morning. So they were up and ashore at five o'clock, and under the escort of the ofiicer they took in the beauties of the hill and the woods. And thus she tells us of it: "No words can give an idea of the charms of this morning walk. We wound about in a vast shrubbery, with ripe straw- bei'ries under foot, wild flowers all around, and scattered knolls and opening vistas tempting curi- osity in every direction." Coming suddenly on Arch Rock, which she calls the "Natural Bridge of . MISS MARTINEAU. 109 Mackinaw," she is "almost struck backwards" by the grandeur — "tlie horizon line of the lake falling behind the bridge, and tlie blue expanse of waters filling the entire arch; shrubbery tufting tiie sides and dangling from the bridge, the soft, rich hues in which the whole was dressed seeming boiTowed from the autumn sky." f3ut especially charming and impressive, slie tliought, was the prospect from Pc^rt Hohn«\s. As she looked out on the glossy lake and tlie green tufted islands, she compares it to wliat Noah might have seen the first bright morning aftci- the deluge. "Such a cluster of little paradises rising out of such a congregation of waters. Blue waters in i)vei'y direction, wholly unlilve any aspect of the sea, cloud sliadows and specks of w^hite vessels. Bowery islands rise out of it; bowery promontories stretch down into it; w^hile at one's feet lies the melting beauty which one almost fears will vanish in its softness before one's eyes; the beauty of the shadowy dells and sunny mounds, with browsing cattle and springing fruit and flowers. Thus, would I fain think, did the world emerge from the flood.'' After their early walk, Miss Martineau and her party took breakfast with the courteous com man - tlant at one of the old stone quarters of the fort, and sat a while on the piazza overlooking the village and the harbor. In response to her in- quiries about the healthfulness and the climate, the officer humorously replied that it was so healthy people had to get olf the island to die; and that as to the climate, they had nine months winter and three months cool weather. 110 EARLY MACKINAC. TliG sailing vessel on whicli the party were passengers w;is bound iov Detroit, and the Captain had already overstayed his time. So they had to leave that same day. In ref(M'ence i< her departure she wi'ites: "W(» were in great delight at having seen Mackinaw, at having the possession of its singular imagery for life. But this delight was daslied with the sorrow of leaving it. I could not have believed how deeply it is possible to regret a place, after so brief an acquaintance with it." And then she tells how she did, just what thous- ands since have done, who after visiting the island have regretfully sail(*d away from it: "We watch- ed the island as we rapidly receded. Its flag first vanished; then its green terraces and slopes, its white barracks, and dark promontories faded, till the whole disappeared behind a headland an 1 light-house of the Michigan shore. " We close Miss Martineau's tribute with this comprehensive note of admiration: "From place to jolace in my previous traveling, I had been told of the charms of the lakes, and esi)ecially of the Island of Mackinaw. This islaud is chiefly known as a i)rincipal station of the great Northwestern Pur Company. Others know it as the seat of an Indian Mission. Others, again, as a frontier gar- rison. It is known to me as the wildest and tend- erjest piece of beauty that I have yet seen on God's earth." _jg THE END. Ill Captiiin Marryatt, Avho liad read this descrip- tion before his visit to the island (already referred to) said, wli(^n writing his own impressions, "Miss Martlnean lias not been too lavish in her i)raises of Mackinaw." These testimonies by pers(ms of wide travel, and of cultivated taste and power of obser- vation, and visitors as they were from another land, come down to us very pleasantly from sixty }' rears ago. T know iin isle, an emerald set in pearl, Mounting the chain of topaz, amethyst, That forms tlio circle of our summer seas — Tlic fairest that our western sun hath kissed. For all things lovely lend her loveliness; The waves reach forth white fingers to caress. The four winds, murmuringly meet to woo And cloudless skies bend in blue tenderness. The classic nymphs still haunt her grassy pools; Her woods, in green, the Norseland elves have draped. And fairies, from all lands, or far or near. Her airy cliffs, and carving shores, have shaped. Of old, strange suitors came in quest of hor. Some in the pride of conquest, some for pelf; Priests in their piety, red men for revenge — All seek her now, alone, for her fair self. David If, Riddle.