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Cbc Old fdrt» ^ar of 1 81 2* Mtdslone* early Bodat lift attd Other Matters of Interest. mi ■3 :- h: f ■ %' If - ""^ ■ F57a mtw? :iiAiihzli m IK THE LIBRARY S9 ^p9 THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA TbeF.W'.IIoway and R. L. Reid Collection aj C.tnad/jna iv .^^"i ;^.:i I'll mil'' 111.1:1, "ii-nm;tii.,jl!:il' :' o u. "d yi V r o l:. 1/1 a> c j^ ^ ^^ o O — c x: (I> • > ■QC ^ in C o U •5 c (0 -"" z < 3 > O J 1/". £ u\ M •it in j^ — u L. < ca z 4> E o 3 O v; ^ < o o o S z 4» > O tu U r/) I/I u 10 ^ u lA (0 n U c O) — >■ .i<: u S o , Of) -] (U tlfl M nj — ^ > o n a: w < ^ (J o l>. Q o z < u >■ u t/l b E o u. ■ •=i o ti. (/> o c — C - c — (U di . .ti > ■«) j^ <" = t y .- ^ — C T ■= (0 3 ■; 0) -' Q > f^ .-^ ~ ti. u (/I ^ M .2 "* - c o o U Q. L» (/I c 0) - !5 5 «- a ^ (0 (tj O (U ^' -3 J 3 " 00 J M .— ji >^ . u w < a. M ARLY Mm v.. ■: H G ' ;BLANi i^. •A ■■ ] ..-I-' .•■■ 'H tt " u u < 02 « O 4m« 3 2 •" O X < '5 o o •r T J .^ _J V* ■*• W «* ■w > c o o (♦ a. ^^ ;.' '• i CTi a. ■ ■»-'■>>*■*• ■ ■ -!;:>»:-■ ■r. 5u. V) c '3 u < SMS ^ rn *- — is: ■* 1. ■*- o o u 0. '■ ai — 2 - o Early Mackinac: "THE FAIRY ISLAND." A SKEZTOH. BY Meade C. Williams. Name. -Tndlvn Legends. —Indian Character.— Frenoei En(Jlisii and American Flags.— Old Fort.— Mili- tary- History, and War ov 1812.— Fur Trade. —Early Village Life.— Christian Mis- sions and Ciii:rciies.— Natural At- tractions.— Antiquities. ■ BtrsCHART UK US., PRINT.- ST. LOUIS, MO. I I COPYRIGHT, 1897, BY MEADP: C. WILLIAMS TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVING ONCE KNOWN THF: ISLAND OF THE STRAITS STILL KEMEMBER ITS CHARM, AND REMAIN LNDER THE POWER OF ITS SPELL, THIS KOOK IS DEDICATED. CONTENTS. rREFACE. PHce. CHAPTEK I. The IsluncVs iiiime — Its etyniolo^'y - Its saerednertS in thf Indian's mind -Indian leK«'nfl'^—l^'>f^t'<' vein iu Indian nomenelatnre-Tlie passing,' of the Indian 7 CHAl'TER II. Early setlliuK under the Freueh tla^:— Pioneer military post on northern mainland— La Hontan's \isit— Removal to Detroit and return Post established on southern mainland— Ens-'lish sway- Discontent of Ihe Indians— Ball game and massacre— Alexander Henry— Wawatam— Skull Cave 15 CHAPTER III. Removal to the island proposed—Transfer effected— Major Sinclair —Captain Robertstm (Robinson)- Rum—Building the fort 25 CHAPTER IV. American Independence achieved— England's delay in surrendering Mackinac- A second treaty required to secure American oc- cupation—Greenville treaty with the Indians— F\ir trade- Washington Irving's description of Mackinac— Another picture. 33 CHAPTER V. War of 1812 opens— ••British Landing"— Fort Mackinac captured by the British— Of great importance to British interests— Oftlcial reports— Building of Fort Holmes (Fort George) 42 CHAPTER VI. American expedition to recover Mackinac— Effects entrance at '•British Landing"- The battle— Major Holmes killed— Ameri- can forces withdraw- Destroy British supplies in Georgian Bay- Blockade elTected - Blocade raised— Mackinac again ceded lo United States in ISI5— Old cannon— Early officers at the fort- Fort given over to State of Michigan 00 CHAPTER VII. Early citizens of the island- Ramsey Crooks as connected with the f\ir trade— Robert Stuart, resident partner in the Astor Fur Co, —Henry R Schoolcraft, government agent, scientist and ex- plorer— His literary works and character, ...,,, , 01 PHce. .. I) 's e ,. 7 15 25 CONTENTS. 5 CHAPTER VIII. Jesuit mi.s.sions-Marquette-Churc.h of St. Ann at Old Mackinac, and on the island-Trinity Church-Mission School and Old Mission Church-Story of Chuska-Old Church restored 73 CHAPT]<1R IX. Excee(-ug beauty of the island-Woods-Ve^etation-U-ater views-Curiosities in stoue-Arch liock-SugarLoaf-Robmsons Folly and its legends CHAPTER X. The island's celebrity as a place of resort-Early duv visitors- Books of deseription-Countess Ossoli (Margaret Fuller)- \ Xew ^ork d.,ctor^. visit in 1H:{5-Cap.ain Marryatt-Mrs. Jameson- Miss Harriet Martineau -O- 42 LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. Birds eye vie w of Mackinac Island y La Honian's Sketch. KiKS Fort Mackinac • Mackinac Beach Henry R. Schooh-raft. Old Mission Church Sugar Loaf Arch R(jck Tauglewood One of the Drives rontLspiece . 1(3 . 41 . m . SI . yi .103 .106 00 PREFACE. I have had thirteen summers at Mackinac. Fellow visi- tors there have often sugges^.tod that I should furnish, in written form, some studies of the island. While it is believed this skcitch may have interest for the general reader, it at the same time carries a local coloring which m iy more particularly appeal to those who know the place. As the charm of the locality is due, in no small degree, to that halo of antiijuity which hangs ov(ir it, I have felt warranted in restricting myself to S^^ Louin, Mo., {Inrtised them as of the "Macldna\v Liuis" and likewise business firms here so wrote the word *Henry Adams' 'History of the United States." i i y i«:akly mackinac. —at least as froquontly as the otlierform. So this was quite f^^eiieral dui'ing all that time, except that the official naim? of tlie military post held to the tenniiiation "ac." But since the railroad compan- ies built thcnr modern terminal town across the straits and called it Mackinaw City, for the sake of convenience in distinguishing, the name of the island is now uniformly written Mackinac. In pronuncia- tion, however, without attempting to settle the question by the laws of orthoepy, it may be re- marked that it is consid(M'ed very incori-ect; and to the ears of residents, and old hdhituef^ and lovers of the island, it is almost distressful to hear it pro- nounced anything else than Mackina?;?. A com- promise may perhaps be allowed by taking the name as if it bore the termination "ah, " and giving it a sound b(^t\ve('n the ilat and the very broad. The (• must never be sounded. The origin of the word is in some obscurity. All agree that the first part of it, "Michi," means great. It is preserved in the name of the State, Michigan, and in thc^ name of th" Lake, Lake Michigan — meaning great waters The French took it up, s})elling it Missi; hence t .e name of the river Mississippi — great I'iver, the father of waters. Conc(n'ning the remainder of the name which fol- lows the Michi, we ai'e not so sure. The common view is tliat the foi'm of the island, high-backed in the center, as it rises above the waters, and hand- somely crowning the whole, suggesteo to the Indian fancy the figure of a large turtle. Hence that it became known as the land of the Great Turtle. I ORICIN OF THE WORD. 9 ^o this 3t that to the )mpan- ss the ^ake of ; island luncia- tle the be re- and to vers of it pro- ^ coni- ng the giving broad. ;curity. means State, , Lake D^rench ; of the ^vaters. ch fol- ommoii ;ked in I hand- to the Hence Great Schookn-afi, wlio is tlie best autlioi-ity on all questions pertaining to the Indian language, as well as to the customs and characteristics of that race, says that the oi-iginal name of the island was Mishi-miii-auk-in-ong, and that it means the i)laco of the great dancing spii'its— these spirits being of the more inferior and diminutive order, instead of belonging to the Indian collection of gods; a Kind of pukwees, or fairies, or sprites, j-ather than Man i tons. Heriot, an English traveler in North America, and who published his "Ti-avels through the Canadas, " in 1807. touched at Mackinac and reports as the origin of the nanie that the island had been given, as tlieir S])ecial abode, loan order of spirits called Imakinakos, and that "trom these aerial possessors it had received the api)ellatk)not'Michi- limackinac." Perhaps tiies«» different views can in a manner be combined. The turtle was held in great re\er- ence by the Indians. In their mythology it was regarded as a symbol of tlu^ earth and addressed as motlier. * The fancied physical I'esemblance of the island could easily worlv in with their m\thical *Auar.Mv Laii- ill his ■Myths. Kit uiil iiml Relit,aous.-- (Vol 1 p IS-') meutioiis oertai.i of the Imliuu tnl.,-s its holih'u- tho nuu-y that (lie earth Krew out of the tortoise. One form tliat the h'^end tonic was that Ataheustie. u vvouian of the upper world, hart been banished froin the slvv. and fuliintr. dropjied on the bael< ..f a, turtle in tli(> midst of the waters. The turtle eonsulted with the oth.-r a.iuatie animals and one of them, peuerally .said to have be.-n tlie musl<-rat. IIsIh d up s.m^e soil and fashionrd the .-arth. Uer.' the woman -ave birth lo i wins and thus betrau the i)eoplin- of the ^lobe Thus in the crude fancy of the Western Indians do w.- lind a reHeethm or fratrment ..f the ancient myth which once i)revailed in the oriental mind that the world re.sted on the back uf a turtle. 10 EARLY MACKINAC. idea of the turtle, apart from its having any ety- mological connection. And thus whatever way the name is studied it becomes associated with some Indian conception of spirit. All singular or strik- ing foi'mations in the work of nature — objects that were of an unusual kind or very large and impos- ing, as lofty rocks, overhanging cliffs, mountains, lakes and such like — these jjoor untutored cliildren looked upon as the habitations of spirits. Our island therefore, physically so different from the other islands and the mainland about it, with its glens and crags, and its many remarkable and strange looking stone formations, would easily be peopled for them with spectres and spirits. They regarded it as their sacred island, and a favorite haunt of their gods, and cherished for it feelings akin to awe; and from the surrounding regions would bring their dead for burial in its soil. The island seems to have been ratlier their place of j'esort and temporary sojourn than of permanent abode. Thei'e is something vei-y fascinating in the fragments of early Indian fanciers and triiditions and legends which are associated with our island. It is interesting, too, to note liow the legends and the mythology of the Indians and their dim religious ideas so often took a poetic form. For instance, in their pagan and untutored minds they thought of the island as the favorite visiting place of Michibou, the great one of the waters, their Manitou of these lakes. That, coming over the waters from the sunrise in the east, he would touch the beach at the foot of Arch Rock; that the large i LEGLNDAKY. 11 -y ety- 'ay the i some ■ strik- ts that impos- n tains, liildren Our om the k'ith its lie and sily be They avorite eeliiigs regions [. The hice of manent in the ?.ditions island, ids and 'ir dim n. For Is they g place s, tlieir ver tlie Ld touch le large mass of stone which liad falh'n from the face of the clilf in the long ago, causing thn arch above, was "Manitou's Landing Place;'' that tlie arch was his gateway through which, ascending tlie hill, he would proceed in stately stop to "Sugar Loaf," wliich in fancy they made to be his wigwam, or lodge — the cave on the west side, known to all to- day, being his doorway. Then again, the Sugar Loaf stone and others of that conical, pyramidal shai)e — such as the one which stands in St. Ignace and in d liferent parts of the noi'thern peninsula, and yet others which formerly stood on the island — that these strange, uncanny looking rock forma- tions, by a modification of fancy, they w^ould X:>ersonify with great giants or monsters who tower- ed o^-er them as sentinels to note whether they made due offerings and sacrifices to Manitou, their success in the hunting and trapping being condi- tioned on this kind of religious tidelitJ^'''■ The Indians, so spontaneously recognizing the world of si3irits,were fruitful in ideas and sentiments of reverence. We are told there wore no profane^ words in their vocabulary. Think of a people who did not know liow to swear because they liad no *Schoolcraft noted a curious fact aiuouK the Chlppe was— that they fancied the woods and shores and i^h.nds were iiiliuliited l).vinuunier!il)le spirits wlio during the summer season were wakeful aud quick to hear everything that was spoken, but durinit? the winter existed only in a torpid state, The Indian story lellei's aud le;.'end mongers were there- fore very free in amusinjjr their listenei's with fanciful aud mysterious tales durin^c 'he winter, as the spirits were then iu a slate of inactivity and could not hear. Kut their story telliuf,' was susi)eiide(l the iiionu'nt the pipiuj? of the frog announced that spriuK had opened. That he had endeavored, h>it in vain, to yet any of them to relate this sort of imatirinary lore at any other time than in the winter. They would always evade his attempts by some easy or indifferent remark. 12 EARLY MACKINAC. words for it ! It is said tluit tho lu^arest they ap- ])roached to cursing a man \vas to call liim "a bad do.£i-." So too in tiie nomenclature of wild or un- conlh looking objects of nature — while our white pioneers and prosixicting miners and avani couriers of civilization in the west liave so often attached to such objects the name of the devil, as "Devil's Lake," "Devil's Slide," "D(>virs Half-acre," "Devil's Scuttle-hole,"' and such like, the Indians g'en(U"illy gave them someex])ressiveandha aioni- ous poetic name. On the island we have the "Devil's Kitchen,"' but we nuiy feel sure that was not of the Indian's naming. The writer of this sketch was told by an old resident who had passed the whole of an extremely long life on the Island,* that once, long ago, t' shoemaker took up his abode ill that cavern and did his cobbling and his cooking there. Possibl3^ that gave rise to the name. In this habit of nomenclature which linked their kleas with the phejiomena of physical nature, we see a beautiful though often rude and childish vein of poetry. Their name for the great cataract of Niagara was "Thunder of the Waters,"' as that for tlie gentle falls now within the limits of the City of Minneapolis was Minnehaha, or "Laughing Waters," The familiar white fish of these regions was the "Deer of the waters." To the horizon limit when they looked out on the lake to where the thread-like line of blue water loses itself in the clouds and sky, they gave a name which signified the "Par off sight of water." Their name for General Wayne, who did so much to overthi'ow *Ignuce Pelotte, died Feb. 1897. I I POETIC VEIN 1 ^ they ap- 1 "i\ bad [d or un- ,\ir white ,t couriers ,t ached to "Devil's alf-acre," e Indians ha xnoni- have the that was ?r of this ad passed e island,* his abode is cooking me. h linked l^al nature, cliildish ,t cataract as that its of the iLaughing ke regions |e horizon to wiiere jelf in the signified Iname for (verthrow their power in the west, was "Strong Wind;"' Avhile the American soldiers from tlieir ns(^ of \]\v sabre and sword in battle, were knov^n as llie '"Long Knives." Their concej^tion of a ft)rt witli its mounted cannon was "Tlie liigh-fenced h()u^e of thunder, "while the discharge was "The arrow lliat Hies out of tlie big gun." A little son of Mr. Schoolcraft, when he was Government agent at the Sault, was admiringly called by the Chi[)p(nvas, Penaci, or "The Bird;" and the English authoress, Mrs. Jameson, when visiting there, after "shooting tiie rapids" with the Indian guides, was re-nanied ' "The wcmian of iho. Bright P'oam. " As t heir whole life and range of observation was const.mtly asso- ciated witii tempests, forests, waters and skies, and all the various ])henomena of pliysical nature, this gave shape to their conceptions and their qu(>stion- ings. It has always seemed very significant that when John Eliot, the pioneer missionary to the Indians in New' England, two hundred and fifty years ago, began his instructions among them, lie Avas met at once by their eager and long pent-up questions of wonder: "What makes the smi ebb and How?" "What makes the wind blow^V" "Whiit makes the thunder?" Parkman rei)resents the Jesuit missionaries in Canada, two centuries since, as testifying that the Indians had a more acute intellect than the peasantry in France. At his best, however, the red man was but the "Child of the forest," and in the presence of the pale faces waF not destined to endure. They are a doomed and a passing race. Many reasons, or causes, might be assigned for 14 EARLY MACKINAC. this. One roason is that which was ^iv^en by a very thoujilitfiil ludiiin in a speech on a certain occasion lonf? u^o, befoi-e a company of frovernment n<4'ents here on our island beach. Said he, very r( llectively: "The white man no sooner came than he tiiou<;iit of ]ir(*parin<^ the way for his posterity; ihe red man never thou u O "J ;j c no ifi o X rjo U 3 -^ ■^ C 0. (9 X 'J u (/) a Q. 'J c < 5f '/) 3 ■- O n c c 3 o ro !5 ij in 71 c ro 'ji 'i •* LA HOXTAN S LETTER. 17 and indeed it goes oeyoiid all other sorts of river tisli. Above all, it lias one singular property-, namely, that all sorts of sauces spoil it, so that it is always eat either boiled or broiled, without any manner of seasoning. ••In the channel I now speak of. tlie current.i are so stj-ong that they sometimes suck in the nets, tiiough they are two or three leagues off. In some seasons it so falls out that the currents run three days eastward, two days to the west, one to the south, and four northward; sometimes more and sonu'tinu's l(>ss. The cause of this divei-sity of currents could never be fathomed, for in a calm they will run, in the space of one day, to all tiie points of tlie compass, i. c, sometimes in one way, sometimes anotlier, without any limitation of time; so tliat the decision of the matter must be left to the disci[)le of Copernicus. •Here the savage catch trouts as big as one's thigh; with a sort of tishing-hook made in the form of an awl, and made fast to a piece of brass wire, which is joined to the line that reaches to the bottom of the lake. This sort of tishery is carried on uot only with hooks, but with nets, and that in winter as well as in summer. '•Thci Outaomif! and the Ifurnus ha\e very pleasant tields, in which they sow Indian corn, pease and beans, besides a sort of citruls and melons. Sometimes thei^.e savages sell their corn very dear, es])ecially when the beaver hunting happens not to take well; upon which occasion they make sutKcient reprisals upon us for the ex- travagant prico of our commodities. " 18 EARLY MACKIxXAC. For a shoi't interval the French Government, mider tlie instii^^ation of the post Coninumder, CadiHac, Avitlulrew the «i'arrison (as ah-eady men- tioned) and abandoned tills region as a military seat in favor of the new settlement at Detroit. That was about the opening of last century. But tills vacating was soon seen to be bad policy, and in 1714 the fort was re-established. When, how- ever, the restored fort b(>comes known apiin m history it is found located on the Southern Penin- sula, across the Straits, where now stands the railroad town, Mackinaw Citv. Whether on the return from Detroit the military at once located ihc fort there, oi* first resumed the old site at St. Iirnace, and I'emoved to the other Peninsula ut some later period, is not definitely known. At any rate it Avas tlie same military occu})ation, and the same Fort Michilimackinac, irrespective of the time of change in the site. It stood about half a mile from the present Light House, and soutliwesterly from the railroad station; and was so close to the water's edge that when the wi)id was in the west the waves would often break into the stoclcade. Its site is plainly visible 'to-day, and visitors still find relics in tho sand. After the conquest of Canada by the English, in the deciding l)attle of Quebec on the heights of Abraham in 1759, all this country around came un- der the English flag. The Indians, however, liked better the French dominion and their pc^rsonal re- lations with the French peoi)le than tliey did the English sway and English associations, and they did not take khidly to the transfer. One reason PONTIAC S CONSPIRACY. 19 vornment, luuiuiiuler, a military tt Detroit, lury. But policy, cind lieu, liow- 1 ai^^aiu in ,ern Peuin- staiicls the ;ber on the s located the site tit St. ^ulantsome ^t any rate id the same the time of a mile from sterly from I) the water's t the waves Its site is ill find relics he English, b heii-Thts of ind came un- wever, liked |p(*rsonal re- Ihey did the lis, ami they One reation for this prefcu'ence is said to have been that the B'rencli were accustomed to pay respect to all the ludiaijs' religious or superstitious observances, wliereas an Englishman or an American was apt, eitlier to take no [)aius to conceal liis coutempt for their suixu'stitions or U) speak out bluntly against them. To this can be add/ Cdnadn," by Chas. (!. D. h'oberts. Schoolcraft rated liim in the saini' way. I)i-al Avas, of course, a failure in its larger feat ui-os, the plot as,^ai list the old post of Miclulimackiiiao across the water succeeded only too well. The strategy and liorrors of that capture read like a tale of lictioii. The story is olch but to r(>peat it in tliis sketch will not be amiss. Jt may be introduced under the title of AN iriSTORlC BAr.L GAME. In ITOo a band of Ihirty-tive English soldiers and their ofticcrs formed its garrison. Encamped in the woods not far off was a large number of In- dians. One morning in the month of Juius with groat show of friendliness, the Indians invited the soldiers to witness their match game ot ball, just outside tlie stock'ade. The Chippewas were to play the Sacs,* TIkui, as now, ball playing had great fascination. And as tliis was the birthday oC the King of England, and the; men wer(3 in the celebra- ting mood, some indulgence was shown, discipline for a time rtdaxed, gates wcrii left ajar and the soldiers and ofKceis carelessly saunter( d and look- ed on, enjoying tlu^ sport. In tlu^ cour.d. *J3ugguiiwuy wufn iljeir Kiutl uf bull game, ALEXANDEFl HENRY. 21 I fLiilure ill 3lcl post of ;eodecl only liiit captur<.) , old, bub to ss. It may iisli soldiers Kiicampi'd luboL' of lu- [ Jmio, Avilli ; iiivilod the of ball, just i wen^ U) play ig had i;reat Ihday of the L tlio colebva- n. discipline! |ajar and the ( d and look- irse of play, ■atagoni, the Ithe stockade the players rs, inu-nt in The Indians antly turned a terrifying ,s sharing in ahawks con- Avere seized. and then followed a most shocking massacre. Tlie surprise of the fort and the success of tlie red men were complete. The details of this dreadful event are vivid- ly and luirrowingiy given by the English trader, Alexander Henry, sojourning at tlie time, with his goods, within the stockade, and wlio was a partici- pant in the dreadful scenes and experiences. Tlie humble ILmry may Avell Ijo called the Father of History, like another Herodotus, as far as tliis e[)isode is ccmcei'ned. Excepting the very meagre re]v^rt of th(^ humiliating capture made by Captain Elherington, the officer in command, there seems to be nothing but the narrative of this Enii-lish trader. His description of the fort, the purpose it had been serving, the movements of the Indians pi'eceding the affair, as widl as the minute descj-ip- ticmof the stratagem and its success, and the terri- ble scenes enacted, is the chief source of informa- tion; and one can take up no history of this jieriod and this locality without seeing liow all writers are indebt(Hl to his plain and simple narrative. When the foi't was captin*(Hl by the savages, he himself was hidden for the fii'st niglit out of their miirderou>< reach, but was discovered the n(>xt day. Then follow(Ml a series of experiences and ]ia;i--breadth escapes and turns of f(M'tuno very remaikable, while all tlie tiuK^ the most bai'barous fate S(M^med imi)ending, the suspiMise in which made his sensations, if possible, only the moi-e distress- ful and torturing. It was not enough that liis goods wei'o confiscated and his very clothes stri})- ped off his body, but his savage captors thirsted ■nil. I Of) EARLY MACKINAC. for his blood. They siiici of him and their other prisoners, that they were bein<^ reserved to "make English broth.'' After fonr dtiys of such horrors there came a turn Avhich Henry says gave "a new- color to my lot. " During his residence at the posi b<»foro the massacre, a certain Cliii)pewa Indian named Wawatam, who used to come frequently to his house, had become very friendly and told him that the Great Spirit pointed him out as one to adopt as a brother, and to regard as one of his own family. Suddenly, on the fourth day of his cap- tivity, Wawatam appeaiM>don the scene. Before a council of the chiefs lie asked the release of his brother, the trader, at the same time laying down presents to buy otf whatever claims any may liave thought they had on the prisoner. Wawatam 's request, or demand was granted, and taking Mr. Henry by the hand he led him to his own lodge wdiere he jeceived the utmost kindness. A day or two afterwards, fearing an attack of retaliation by the English, the whole body ol Indians moved from the fort over to our island as a place of greater safely. They landed, three hun- dred and fifty fighting men. Wawatam wr.s among them, with Henry in safe keeping. Scn-eral days had passed, w^iien two large canoc^s from Montreal. with English goods aboard, wei'e seized by th<' Indians. The invoice of goods contained amonjj other things, a large stock of licpior, and soon maci drunkenness prevailed. The watchful and faithful Wawatam told Henry he feared he could not pro tect him when tlie Indians w