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 PEN AND PENC3L SKETCHES j»j» 3 
 
 Ditdmarks 
 
 A SERffiS OF ARTICLES DESCRIP- 
 TIVE OF QUAINT PLACES AND 
 INTERESTING LOCALITIES INj»j» 
 THE SURROUNDING COUNTYj»j» 
 WRITTEN BY MRS. DICK-LAUDER, 
 MRS. CARR, ji R. K. KERNIGHAN 
 (THE KHAN), J. E. WODELL, J. W. 
 STEAD, J. McMONIES, iP OTHERS. 
 ILLUSTRATIONS BY J. R. SEAVEY 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE SPECTATOR 
 PRINTING COMPANY, LIMITED j» 
 HAMILTON, EIGHTEEN HUNDRED 
 AND NINETY-SEVEN .!».>» j»j»j»j»j»j» 
 
 

 i 
 
 109343 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The following series of articles were first published in the 
 Hamilton Spectator. They were originally issued under the title of 
 ^* Delving Among Ruins,** and dealt more particularly with the 
 history of architectural relics which were the fast disappearing sou- 
 venirs of events and incidents in the early history of this district. 
 As the series continued, so much valuable and interesting material 
 came to light that the primary scope of the articles was considerably 
 extended, and eventually resulted in the collection of much general 
 information that may prove useful to the local historian of the 
 future who undertakes to throw his literary searchlight on the dim 
 and distant past. So general was the interest evinced by the public 
 in these literary and artistic gleanings that it was decided to re- 
 publish them in a more permanent and collected form, with such 
 slight emendations as the exigencies of serial publication rendered 
 necessary. 
 
 The Editor. 
 
 f 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 All Historic \'illage 
 
 Old Residences at Aiicastcr 
 
 The Lccming Parsonage 
 
 St. John's Church, Ancaster 
 
 Ancastcr in the Victorian Era 
 
 The Old Red Mill 
 
 The Terry berry Inn 
 
 A Forgotten House of Peace 
 
 Historic Homes on the MouMtu! 
 
 On the Outskirts of the Citv 
 
 North of Hamilton Hay . 
 
 By Medad's Marshy Shores 
 
 At-ti-wan-dar-o ni-a 
 
 Indian Relics and Remains 
 
 Rock Chapel and Vicinity 
 
 The Fools' College . 
 
 Early History of Dundas 
 
 Its Prehistoric Buildings 
 
 A City that was not Built 
 
 Legends of Romulus 
 
 An Ancient Trojan 
 
 A Battlefield of 1 812 
 
 Albion Mills Ravine 
 
 Early Days in Saltfleet 
 
 The Caledonia Stage Road 
 
 
 
 
 PAOK 
 
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 '44 
 
 
QUAINT OLD ANCASTER 
 
 An Historic Village and its Decayed Industries. ^ Old Resi- 
 dences of Ancaster. jf> The Leeming Parsonage. J^ St. 
 John's Church and its Picturesque Churchyard. j» An- 
 caster in the Victorian Era. d^ The Old Red Mill. 
 
WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 AN IIISTOIIIC VILLAGE 
 
 Id 
 
 "I loved the brimming wave that swam 
 
 Thro* quiet meadows round the mill. 
 The sdeepy pool above the dam, 
 
 The pool beneath it never still, 
 The meal sacks on the whlten'd floor. 
 
 The dark round of the dripping 
 wheel. 
 The very air about the door 
 
 iMade misty with the floating meal." 
 
 — ^Tennyson. 
 
 \Ki «'« 
 
 ■\. on 
 
 HEN heaven, as- 
 sisted by the 
 powers that be, 
 orders up that 
 electric continua- 
 tion of the Beck- 
 ett drive, which 
 is to strike An- 
 caster amidships, 
 it may prove a 
 Jehemiah to 
 trace up this old 
 Jerusalem, to re- 
 pair its breaches 
 by pulling down 
 the present ghast. 
 ly array of spec- 
 ters In stones, 
 and replacing 
 
 them with the 
 smart villa residence and the awe-in- 
 spiring summer boarding house; also, 
 perhaps, carrying out the expressed 
 opinion of experts that, as a healthy 
 and desirable location for an idiot or 
 inebriate asylum, old Ancaster stands 
 first on the list, offering unrivalled 
 advantages in the shape of wide hor- 
 izons, church and water privileges and 
 congenial society. 
 
 At any rate the railway is an ac- 
 complished fact as far as the survey, 
 against whose pegs we often lately, 
 in the elegant words of a defunct 
 bishop, "stub our toes" when medi- 
 tating along tlie Mohawk trail In the 
 dusk. Thus, If the matter ends In 
 pegs, we can at least remember that 
 
 we once had a survey, Just as the 
 crankiest female who stalks grimly 
 down the vale of years, an unappro- 
 priated blessing, can surely recall the 
 time when she had her one offer of 
 marriage! 
 
 • • • 
 
 One thing generally leads to anoth- 
 er, as the man said when he launched 
 out and bought a paper collar, so who 
 can say that new life may not once 
 more flow to the aged village, now 
 high and dry on old time's sand banks, 
 bringing back her bright meridian 
 bloom and vigor of 70 years ago? Fan- 
 ned by the breath of electricity to 
 spring like a Phoenix from her bed of 
 ashes — ashes, understand, being prin- 
 cipally the matter choking up the old 
 place with a Are record unequalled 
 since the days of Sodom, making her 
 an object of terror to her friends, de- 
 rision to her foes and a hoo-doo to the 
 guileless Insurance agent. 
 
 It Is rather melancholy, on a sum- 
 mer's day, to stand on the high bridge 
 and watch the waters slouching by 
 like a gang of crystal dwarfs out of a 
 Job, idling and playing, and painting 
 the "beautiful, waving hair of the 
 dead" grass green among the fallen 
 ruins, which a few years ago were In- 
 stinct with the hum of industry, pour- 
 ing forth at stated hours, with jangle 
 of bells, a cheerful, clattering stream 
 of bread winners, giving life and ani- 
 mation to the scene, in contrast to the 
 occasional man who now meets the 
 casual glance up street in the sunny 
 noon hours. 
 
 • • • 
 
 These mill ruln» cannot In them- 
 selves be found deeply interesting to 
 lovers of antiquity because of their 
 comparative modernity, though they 
 occupy the sites of the more ancient 
 buildings, the Union mill for example. 
 Fire took a hand in at an early date 
 
 n 
 
lO 
 
 WENTWORTir LANDMARKS 
 
 and beKan removing the village build- 
 ings, sometimes singly, at others In 
 groups, according to the direction of 
 the wind-— as for instance when the 
 stable of the Barley hotel caught Are 
 and swept up, regardless of Interven- 
 ing obstacles, to the next Inn on the 
 corner, kept by one Tidy In a right 
 tidy manner they say. Some still talk 
 of a grand military ball which was 
 held there more than half a century 
 ago, and which apparently was a very 
 tidy affair. How indeed cou'.o it help 
 being so, with redcoats galore, and 
 pretty girls from far and near, for In 
 those days people came from Hamil- 
 ton to Ancaster for their gaieties, as 
 well as their clothes and groceries? 
 We are quite sure that on this even- 
 ing long ago the candles shone o'er 
 fair women and brave men, while 
 
 Music arose with its voluptuous swell. 
 Soft eyes looked love to eyes which 
 spake again — 
 And all went merry as a marriage bell. 
 
 All the "first families" were there, 
 Crookes, Cooleys, Cheps and many 
 more of the familiar names which 
 
 Have been oarved 
 For many a year 
 On the toml). 
 
 A dim echo from that far-off night 
 repeats that the fairest debutante of 
 the evening was a sister of Sheriff 
 Murton, whose family then resided in 
 the original Hermitage house. Our 
 genial sheriff himself had to remain 
 at home, and go early to bed, as he 
 was not old enough to frivol, or no 
 doubt he would have been there, too. 
 
 The officers, after the custom of 
 those days, danced the first three 
 dances in their swords and spurs, 
 greatly to the detriment of their fair 
 
 partner's gowns. 
 
 * Id * 
 
 Somewhere about the year of grace 
 1820, the "man-of-the-tlme" came and 
 took up his abode In the village, 
 where he henceforth lived, and where 
 he died and is buried, after having 
 contributed much to the advancement 
 of Ancaster in many ways. 
 
 This enterprising pioneer was named 
 Job Loder, and he was the builder and 
 owner of all the mills and water priv- 
 ileges of the whole place for many 
 years, running grist mills, saw mill, 
 carding and woolen mills all along the 
 stream on the site of the present 
 ruins. 
 
 Mr. Loder also had a general store. 
 
 close to his house In the village, where 
 he did a rushing business, giving con- 
 stant employment to four clerks and 
 a typewriter. No, not a typewriter; 1 
 forgot it was seventy years ago! 
 Finally the old gentleman made so 
 much money that he didn't know 
 what to do with it, so he sold out his 
 mills and water privileges to a person 
 named Russell, who is still spoken of 
 by the older people as a man of 
 wealth, enterprise and many misfor- 
 tunes — a man with many Irons in the 
 fire, one of whose schemes was that 
 Ancaster should supply Hamilton with 
 water, going so far as to have a sur- 
 vey made, but there, for some reason, 
 want of water perhaps, the matter 
 stuck. He then formed a company to 
 open a carpet manufactory in Ancas- 
 ter, but that also withered in the 
 bud, and rag carpet weaving is as far 
 as we have got yet. Mr. Rusisel's 
 house is still with us, and must have 
 been a very desirable residence, as he 
 had a beautiful farm at the back, 
 stretching all along the east side of 
 the village, from the lover's lane to 
 the lime kiln, watered by the crystal 
 Yuba, and wooded beautifully in those 
 days like an English park. He lived, 
 'ti.s said, in good style, giving employ- 
 ment to many, and judging from his 
 bill of sale, date 1853, he had every- 
 thing requisite to make home pleasant, 
 from cut-glass decanters and "four 
 post beds with crimson damask hang- 
 ings," down to martingales and stable 
 buckets. 
 
 A strange and sad misfortune befell 
 this prosperous man as he was, on 
 one occasion, hurrying through a win- 
 ter journey to Lower Canada on some 
 contract business, of which the point 
 was that he had to get to Montreal 
 ahead of some rival contractor. It 
 was a practical Illustration of the old 
 saw, "Most haste, w.>rse speed," for, 
 on taking some adventurous short 
 cut over the river near Prescott, the 
 ice gave way, the horses were drown- 
 ed, and Mr. Russel only was saved 
 after hours of frightful suffering, half 
 submerged, clinging to the Ice, and 
 finally the poor man proved to be so 
 terribly frost-bitten that both his 
 arms had to be amputated. This cir- 
 cumstance would have been enough 
 trouble for one incarnation surely, but 
 it was followed after a time by a 
 ghastly sequel in the Ancaster woolen 
 mill, when Mr. Russel's only daughter, 
 a bright and handsome girl, accom- 
 panied by her lover from Toronto, and 
 
AN IIISTOUIC VILLAGE 
 
 II 
 
 a gay party of friends, was being 
 shown over the mill one day by the 
 foreman. 
 
 Sleeves, then, apparently, must have 
 partaken of the present fashion some- 
 what, for as the poor girl stepped 
 lightly along under the whirring 
 bands, a revolving upright shaft 
 caught her sleeve, and before she 
 could be rescued had either torn her 
 arm off, or mangled it so badly as to 
 render amputation necessary. 
 
 Later on, it is remembered, that the 
 woolen mill was destroyed by fire, and 
 the air grew thick with trouble, as the 
 insurance company kicked like Jeeu- 
 run, and actually had Mr. Russel im- 
 prisoned and tried in Hamilton, on 
 the word of his coachman, who swore 
 he had bribed him to Are the build- 
 ing. The jury refused to convict 
 on this evidence, however, and he was 
 honorably acquitted. After this the 
 mills were sold separately and passed 
 through several hands, the woolen 
 mill being bought on one occasion by 
 Robert Smiley, the founder of the 
 Hamilton Spectator. Its final 6wner 
 was the late James Watson, of Ham- 
 ilton, during whose reign It finally 
 collapsed, going up to heaven in a 
 chariot of fire one fine evening in the 
 seventies. 
 
 Of all the mills that have come and 
 gone in Ancaster, the grist mill alone is 
 left, like Elijah, as our one industry, 
 and is a thriving and prosperous one, 
 to all appearance, under the energetic 
 rule of Mr. Jackson. Long may it 
 flourish! That's enough about mills; 
 now for more Interesting matter. 
 
 poplar trees, and beyond them the 
 quaintest of houses, in which several 
 things made an unfading impression on 
 the youthful mind. One was the ven- 
 <>rable lady of the mansion, whose 
 chair was placed directly underneath 
 a large oil painting of herself, as a 
 blooming matron in the year 1822. The 
 other unforgotten things were an im- 
 mense antique secretary with quaint 
 crystal handles, and a truly ravishing 
 piece of antiquity as well as handsome 
 bit of furniture, which was an aged 
 spinnet, with spindle legs, and a curi- 
 ously carved and inlaid body, and a row 
 of old yellow keys. This, we were told 
 by its aged mistress, came from New 
 York, and was the first musical instru- 
 ment brought to Upper Canada. 
 
 It seems a strange coincidence, after 
 that glimpse so long ago, to be asked 
 ot write round a cut of the Loder 
 homestead In our village, and the task 
 is a pleasant one, made easy by the 
 kind courtesy of the present owner and 
 his charming wife; of this it is un- 
 necessary to say more than merely to 
 mention that the writer called there 
 timidly on behalf of the "editorial 
 department," intending to remain five 
 minutes and ask three questions, and 
 stayed two hours and twenty minutes 
 by the antique clock, and asked 400. 
 * • • 
 
 Mr. Loder's house was built by his 
 father in 1820, and remains practically 
 the same to-day, only we grieve to re- 
 cord that it is a case of 
 
 Alas! for the shade. 
 The poplars are felled. 
 
 M 
 
 point 
 Montreal 
 or. It 
 the old 
 d," for, 
 short 
 ott, the 
 drown- 
 saved 
 g, half 
 e, and 
 be 80 
 th his 
 his cir- 
 enough 
 ly, but 
 by a 
 woolen 
 ughter, 
 accom- 
 to, and 
 
 Somewhat back from the village street 
 Stands the old-fashioned country-seat; 
 Across Its antique portico 
 Tall poplar trees their Sihadows throw. 
 
 It has always been a puzzle why 
 some events of our early lives are 
 merely glanced over, as it were, by the 
 senses, and then tossed, without more 
 ado, into the mental waste paper 
 basket, while others, perhaps less sig- 
 nificant in themselves, remain ever im- 
 pressed on the memory, bright and un- 
 crushed by the passing over «*f the 
 heavy ammunition wagons of later life. 
 The writer refers to one of these little 
 untarnished mental pictures of many 
 years ago, being invited by the Mrs. 
 Clergyman of that era, to- accompany 
 her in some parochial calls— one of 
 these, and only one, stands out clearly 
 <^till. with a foreground of grand old 
 
 Within, the very sight of the wood- 
 work — the low ceilings, the wide old- 
 fashioned fireplaces built for big logs, 
 the small bright brass knobs on all the 
 doors — carry one over the sea to some 
 of the remembered old homesteads of 
 Devonshire and Norfolk. The illusion 
 begins on the doorstep even, and is 
 heightened by entering in opposite to 
 the most enticing low-arched passage, 
 resembling a cave, into which the 
 waves would wash at high tide, and 
 which led away from the hall to re- 
 gions unknown, that we secretly long- 
 ed to explore. The drawing-room fire- 
 place is peculiarly interesting, being 
 somewhat in the Queen Anne style, 
 and the high mantel was most fitting- 
 ly surmounted by just such a tall pil- 
 lared clock as Cruickshanka frequently 
 pictures in his early sketches, early 
 
la 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 Georgian we take it to be. It was 
 rendered doubly interestingr by the 
 fact that It was too old to go. 
 
 On each side of this silent relict 
 •tood large silver candlesticks, such as 
 always play a part in our baby recol- 
 lectioms of being carried down to des- 
 sert, infrequently, In one's nightshirt, 
 and thinking that the wine, seen glint. 
 Ing in the decanters by tall candle- 
 
 Sheba! A long mirror, with heavy top 
 and carved and grilded frame, fur- 
 nished one with many thoughts. What 
 must its reflections have been, hang- 
 ing observantly there for more than 
 70 years, a silent satire on man, fum- 
 ing through his little hour, and then 
 puff! out he goes, like a snuffed can- 
 dle, while the placid mirror main- 
 tains an unruffled surface, and calmly 
 
 aw^^;^'?^ 
 
 THE OLD KNITTING MILL. 
 
 light, looked like Joseph's coat of many 
 colors. 
 
 « • * 
 
 Time and space would fail us to teli 
 of the miniatures we saw, in the black 
 frames of a by-gone age, the old china 
 and the antique bronze lamp that 
 looked like Nelson's monument in Tra- 
 falgar square. The crimson curtains 
 still hang quaintly draped in the style 
 of 70 years ago, and smiling down on 
 all her former possessions is the por- 
 trait of 1822. Truly an unexpected 
 and delightful oasis this, to And in a 
 Canadian village! Everything in the 
 house seemed to be at least 70 years 
 old, and some oi e things more aged 
 still. The massive fire-irons, the ven- 
 erable well-worn pair of bellows, the 
 cupboard in the wall hard by the par- 
 lor mantel shelf, with glass doors, like 
 the one in the Falrchlld family, where 
 Mrs. Cutshorter kept the Jointed doll, 
 left no spirit in us, like the Queen of 
 
 surveys the new-comers? Old clocks 
 and old mirrors have a particular fas- 
 cination owing to their air of superior 
 individuality, for— 
 
 Through days of sorrow and of mirth. 
 Through days of death and days of 
 
 birth; 
 Through every swift vicissitude 
 Of changeful time, unchanged it stood. 
 As if. like God, it all things saw. 
 
 The old fireplaces have wide chim- 
 neys, which formerly were cleaned by 
 a sweep dragging a smaller sweep up 
 and down, and regarding this Mr. 
 Loder tells an amusing story of the 
 fright a strange young relative on a 
 visit received, in consequence of this 
 mode Off chimney sweeping. One after, 
 noon this little lad came flying forth 
 from the Loder home, as if he had 
 been fired as a, pr9Jectile, and rush- 
 ing down the street, and up to the old 
 AndrusR house, burst in, crying breath- 
 
AN HISTORIC VILLAGE 
 
 »3 
 
 0\ 
 
 heavy top 
 a.me, fur- 
 :hts. What 
 ;en, hang- 
 more than 
 man, fum- 
 and then 
 uffed can- 
 rror maln- 
 md calmly 
 
 lessly: "Oh, Aunt Andruss, the devil 
 iH in Aunt Phoebe'e house!" "Why, 
 dear me, what makes you think eo?" 
 cries Aunt Andruss, all in a twitter. 
 "Oh, I know, I know he is, for I saw 
 
 his feet sticking down the chimney." 
 
 • • • 
 
 Ancaster saw plenty of life during 
 the rebellion of 1837, when it was quite 
 a frequent thing for all the inns, Ave 
 in number, and many of the private 
 houses, to be full over night of red- 
 coats passing towards the west. The 
 old spinnet played a part in the rebel- 
 lion Itself, when on one occasion a 
 wing of militia, 500 strong, under Col. 
 
 Dennistown, bivouacked over night in 
 the village on their march through the 
 country. The soldiers were billeted 
 throughout the village, while the col. 
 onel and some of his officers Judicious, 
 ly selected the Loder house as likely 
 to offer good cheer. During the even- 
 ing the colonel discoursed sweet music 
 on the spinnet, lisltened to intently 
 by the small son of the house, who, on 
 the principle before referred to, still 
 has the incident hanging fresh and 
 bright in his mental picture gallery. 
 Helgh-ho! shall we ever hear the 
 jingle of the spurs again through our 
 old streets? ALMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 m 
 
 yi/' 
 
 Old clocks 
 icular fas- 
 of superior 
 
 a of mirth, 
 days of 
 
 ude 
 
 ;d it stood. 
 
 fs saw. 
 
 tride chim- 
 
 pleaned by 
 
 sweep up 
 
 this Mr. 
 
 ry of the 
 
 Jitlve on a 
 
 Ice of this 
 
 lone after- 
 
 ^ing forth 
 
 Jlf he had 
 
 land rush- 
 
 Ito the old 
 
 Ing breath- 
 
 
 
 r^ . ^:i. 
 
 -*»-*^* A_ ,-^ 
 
 THK RUINED TANNERY. 
 
PBP 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 OLD RESIDENCES OF ANCASTER 
 
 J I 
 
 ! 
 
 " Green rollers breaking. 
 On an ancient shore." 
 
 * • • 
 
 Come out and hear the waters 
 Shoot, the owlet hoot, the owlet hoot: 
 Yon crescent moon, a golden boat. 
 Hangs dim l>eh1nd the tree, O! 
 The dropping thorn makes white 
 The grass, O sweetest lass. 
 And sweetest lass; 
 Come out and smell the ricks of hay 
 Adown the croft with me, O! 
 
 —Old English Song. 
 
 * • • 
 ES, come, come up 
 the winding moun- 
 tain road, higher 
 and higher still, 
 through ever purer, 
 fresher air, up to 
 old Ancaster, all in 
 this leafy month of 
 June, while "the 
 
 roees bloom and the cuckoo sings all 
 day." Come, and drink full measure 
 of the healing beauty of the early sum- 
 mer which, like a great green wave, 
 has broken In spray of blossom, and 
 streams of emerald on leaf and grass 
 through all the sunny land. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Enter with reverence this cathedral 
 of the rolling year, so full of pictures 
 and carvings and delicate tracery and 
 vistas pleasant to the eye. 
 
 Bend to hear the pulse of nature's 
 
 heart beat. 
 And In It And the truest voice of God. 
 
 Here In the green temple, surrounded 
 by miracles, it is easier to understand 
 our own Tennyson when he writes of 
 the— 
 
 Flowers In the crannied wall. 
 
 I pluck you out of the crannies: 
 
 Hold you here, root and all. in my 
 hand 
 
 Little flower, but if I could under- 
 stand 
 
 What you are. root and all. and all in 
 aU. 
 
 I should know what God and man Is. 
 
 It is a royal progress, that gradual 
 ascent to Ancaster, and even the no- 
 bodies must turn their heads in right 
 royal fashion from side to side to 
 greet the "woodsey smell" of the 
 mossy fern carpet spread over the 
 rocks there In the shade, to catch a 
 breath from "the far oft greenhouses 
 of God"— to quote the Khan's beauti- 
 ful conception — "To look deep Into the 
 rocky gorge where the bridge crosses 
 over a real Hieland stream foaming 
 down In haste after rains, round bould- 
 ers and over hollows to join fortunes 
 with the Yuba hastening from its work 
 above at Ancaster," 
 
 • • • 
 
 Just here the road begins to crawl, 
 and so do the horses, giving time to 
 enjoy all the beauteous vale of foun- 
 tains, which lies revealed, perhaps In 
 level beams of evening, to the never 
 satisfled eye. A wonderful old basin 
 it is which meets the downward glance 
 with a strange story of the conflict of 
 time seamed and furrowed on its aged 
 face; so water- worn, so evidently once 
 the head of Lake Ontario, that a very 
 limited imagrlnation could picture it 
 overflowing with a wild, dark play of 
 waters in which strange saurlans 
 swam and sported — a dusky chaos, 
 spreading from rim to rim of the val- 
 ley, where now the peach and apple 
 bloom, and the happy flelds spread out 
 beside the streams, and where the dic:- 
 tant spires of Dundas, that Sleeping 
 Beauty In her wood, make the behold- 
 er cordially endorse the entry made 
 lon;^ ago by William Chambers, of 
 Chimbers' Journal fame. In his notes 
 on Canadian Travel: "Passed by Dun. 
 das, a place to live and die In." Clear 
 case of love at flrst sight, from a car 
 window! Presumably It was good luck 
 and water privileges, more than inher- 
 ent good taste, which led the earliest 
 forefathers of the hamlet to form a 
 nucleus at Ancaster, but it is hard to 
 imagine, looking back from the turn 
 of the mountain, how they could pos- 
 
OI.I) RESIDENCES OK ANCASTEK 
 
 '5 
 
 sibly have made a better selection. 
 It is not, at this era, very progressive, 
 but its claim to general prettiness has 
 never been disputed. 
 
 It would appear also that there has 
 always been an unusual percentage of 
 good looks amongst the Ancastrians 
 in days gone by, as well as to-day. 
 Perhaps unknowingly they acted on 
 the advice of a famous doctor who, 
 when he lay a-dying said to his as- 
 
 So here we have a living exemplar of 
 the fame of Ancaster in one respect at 
 
 least. 
 
 • * • 
 
 Some people have an erroneous idea 
 that there is a Jail at Ancaster. It is 
 true that there were prisoners In real 
 sad earnest here once upon a time, 
 abiding for a space in an old log 
 building down street, near the grrlst 
 mill, and tradition farther whispers 
 that they were deserters from our own 
 forces in the war of 1812, and that 
 
 il 
 
 THE TISDALE HOUSE. THE OLDEST RESIDENCE IN ANCASTER. 
 
 sembled confreres round the bed, "I 
 am going, but I leave three fine doc- 
 tors behind me," (the confreres bridled 
 consciously), "air," said he, "and ex- 
 ercise and gruel." (Collapse of con- 
 freres!) While on the subject perhaps 
 it would be allowable to recall the fact 
 that Ancaster claims the privilege of 
 being the birthplace of the hand- 
 somest Judge in Ontario (Judge Rob- 
 ertson), who was born in the red 
 brick house (recently shown, incident- 
 ally, in one of the views of Ancaster 
 given in the Spectator), formerly occu- 
 pied by Dr. Cragie, of old-time re- 
 nown, which stands on an eminence at 
 the entrance to the village on the left, 
 beautiful for situation, and still shel- 
 tered by a few of the grand old firs. 
 
 they were taken back to headquarters 
 at Burlington and shot. 
 
 The little octagon building called the 
 lockup, and which couldn't really 
 lock up anything tight enough to pre- 
 vent its getting out if it wished, start- 
 ed out in life gaily as a toll-gate 
 house when the stone road was first 
 constructed, somewhere in the latter 
 part of the 30's; upon the removal of 
 the toll-gate to another part of the 
 road in 1834, it reverted to type for a 
 time, though memory, who has Just 
 stepped in, recalls a little crined-up 
 old woman who sojourned therein for 
 a time, and who used to hide her food 
 in the oven when a visitor called and 
 
; t 
 
 i6 
 
 WENTWORTII LANDMARKS 
 
 THE SYMOND8 HOUSE. 
 
 proceed to cut large slices of things 
 more substantial than ice, by patheti- 
 cally exhibiting a heel of bread and a 
 teapot without any tea in particular, 
 and no nose to speak of— only a little 
 oW shadow of a woman, dear to mem- 
 ory for the sake of the past, long 
 since passed, we hope, to an old 
 woman's home, where the teapot, hot 
 and strong, is a chronic institution. 
 • • • 
 
 One or two people have been locked 
 up there, presumably on parole d' 
 honneur, and in winter many a tramp 
 finds warmth and shelter and a bite 
 to eat within the old octagonal. 
 
 Passing east from the village bastile, 
 along the old Mohawk trail, there may 
 presently be seen, across a little stretch 
 of grass, an aged two-leaved gate, 
 which yields, rather unwillingly, to 
 pressure, and sliding back gives en- 
 trance to an unguarded paradise. 
 
 Neglected, poor, forgotten, fallen 
 from all prosperous days, nature with 
 kindly hand is doing her best to con- 
 ceal as well as beautify, with an al- 
 most tropical luxuriance of growth, 
 beginning even at the threshold 
 where, as the foot sinks in the long, 
 lush grass, vague snatches of song 
 come to mdnd unbidden, as the scent 
 of certain forgotten perfumes seems 
 possessed of an electric power which 
 can call up the past, and cry resur- 
 
 rection to hosts of memories, long 
 sepulchred in peace, and so pass on, 
 murmuring: 
 
 I held my way through Defton wood. 
 
 And on to Wander hall; 
 The dancing leaf let down the light 
 
 In hovering spots to fall. 
 
 And also — 
 
 O many, many, many, 
 Little homes above my head; 
 
 And so many, many, many 
 Dancing blossoms found me spread. 
 
 There Is greater or less degree of 
 eeriness attending a sudden return to 
 an abandoned sitting-room after 
 everyone has gone to bed. The fire 
 has died down to red embers, and the 
 pushed back chairs somehow have a 
 startled look as if the individuality of 
 the inanimate had stepped in and 
 filled the interval to the exclusion of 
 the human presence. All seems the 
 same, yet not the same, In the room 
 we left an hour before. 
 
 So it somewhat Is with the empty 
 house of those long passed awFjy. The 
 quiet phantoms seem impalpably to 
 hover beneath the roof tree and in the 
 places which now for long hav» known 
 them no more. 
 
 Passing inward from the two-leaved 
 gate, paradise unfolded, even greener. 
 
DI.D RESIDENCES OF ANCASTEK 
 
 17 
 
 richer in wealth of climbing, branch- 
 ing, flowering things, a medley and 
 a network of trailing vines and bios. 
 Romlng shrubs through which the sun 
 peeped laughing. 
 
 • • • • 
 
 There were lilacs, lilacs, sweeter 
 sweetest, many tinted, everywhere, 
 and the bonnle hawthornes i-ested their 
 trays of snow on the tottering fence's 
 old grey heads, while the plentiful 
 sprinkling of grave, stately forest 
 trees whispered softly In the rising 
 wind to each other of what different 
 times they could recall If they wished 
 
 old gentleman showed excellent taste 
 In his selection of a building site on 
 which to place his, then, handsome 
 house. A more charming spot of the 
 kind could hardly be Im&glned, cheer- 
 ful to a degree, and possessing many 
 beautiful peeps away to blue distance 
 above Dundas, or Flamboro, with 
 prettiest Imaginable foreground of 
 home scenery. 
 
 A house set on a hill and surround- 
 ed with flne old trees has still Inflinite 
 capabilities even when neglect and age 
 have started in to do their worst. 
 
 
 THE OLD TOLL HOUSE. 
 
 of what was, before change and death 
 and mutability wrought havoc with 
 the old house on the hill. 
 
 Early in the thirties an English 
 gentleman of the name of Symonds, 
 who had made a considerable fortune 
 In the West Indies, happened.strange- 
 ly enough, to settle for a time at An- 
 caster, where he became the possessor 
 ol a very beautiful estate, about 500 
 acres In all, extending north to t he 
 brow of the mountain, including the 
 land on and around the present lime 
 kilns, and the farms of Dougherty and 
 MacNlven abutting on the Lovers' 
 Lane. Abundantly watered, richly 
 .wooded, close to the haunts of man, 
 and yet practically miles away. It 
 must have been a goodly heritage. The 
 
 Though empty now, not swept nor 
 garnished, still a glance at the- silent 
 rooms with their high ceilings, goodly 
 proportions and well-sized windows 
 reveals undeniably the fact that the 
 old place was designed and built by a 
 gentleman, for gentlefolk to live In — 
 and here, sul Juris, the West Indian 
 gentleman and his wife and sons, and 
 his friend Dr. Rolph, who had a house 
 close by, spent several years in lavish 
 style, with all that heart could desire, 
 including blood horses in the stable, 
 and a black Pompey in the house, 
 brought from the West Indian home, 
 until the time came that their act on 
 the Ancastrian stage being flnished, 
 they passed into the wings, and the 
 house changed hands, although its de- 
 cadence did not begin for many years 
 after. The largest room, which runs 
 
i8 
 
 WKNTWOKTII I-ANDMAHKS 
 
 almost the whole length of the house, 
 and mufit have been the drawing, 
 room, Is still fascinatlnK In decay. 
 There are four large windows, and 
 one end of the room is largely taken 
 up by a huge high-mantled old fire- 
 place which agrees well with the ap- 
 parently—Judging from design— an. 
 tique paper which still clothes the 
 walls. What a picture that room 
 might yet be, furnished in bright 
 chintz, with flowers everywhere, and 
 fire-light playing amongst the pictures 
 on the walls of a stormy winter's 
 night! 
 
 One feels for houses that have known 
 good days and handsome furniture, 
 almost as if they felt their degrada- 
 tion themselves, and shivered o' nights 
 in the cold and darkness. This par- 
 ticular old Wandor hall looks to have 
 passed beyond the stage of having 
 even a friendly mouse to run over its 
 old floors and keep it in touch with 
 sentient things, but a ghost there well 
 may be, and perhaps in the winter 
 dusk, coming from the radiant flre-llt 
 drawing-room suddenly, a black, 
 shadowless Pompey might be met. 
 climbing the stairs with noiseless feet, 
 bearing an impalpable Jug of hot 
 water to a massa dead this flfty years 
 and morel 
 
 One of the extlnctest of Ancaster's 
 many extinct industries is that of 
 charcoal burning, which was carried 
 on with much succecs for a number of 
 years In the kilns at the foot of the 
 village, which still remain to form a 
 quaintly pretty picture in their red 
 rotundity against the background of 
 richest green. There is a nice old 
 .world ring about the word "charcoal 
 burner" which carries the thoughts 
 very far away to the Black Forest per. 
 haps, where it is a staple industry. It 
 made pleasant the dewy evening air In 
 Ancaster when the kilns were lighted 
 up, and the white smoke crawled out, 
 and lay in cloud strata across the low 
 lands, sending a healthy, pungent odor 
 even into the houses. 
 
 Close by Tweedle-Dum and Tweedle- 
 Dee, as these two kilns have long been 
 called, stands a house which claims 
 to be of some antiquity, and which at 
 present is undergoing a thorough over- 
 hauling at the hands of its new owner, 
 but the very oldest house in Ancaster 
 is said, by coimpetent authority, to be 
 what was formerly known as the Tis- 
 dale house, but which now forms part 
 of a store. 
 
 ALMA DICK LAUDER, 
 
 i 
 
 
 THE CHARCOAL KILNS. 
 
Ancaater's 
 that of 
 as carried 
 number of 
 Dot of the 
 to form a 
 their red 
 ground of 
 I nice old 
 "charcoal 
 i thoughts 
 forest per- 
 dustry. It 
 ning air In 
 ire lighted 
 awled out. 
 BH the low 
 ngent odor 
 
 1 Tweedle. 
 long been 
 Ich claims 
 1 which at 
 5ugh over- 
 lew owner. 
 1 Ancaster 
 rlty, to be 
 js the Tis- 
 (orms part 
 
 '1-i 
 
 UDER, 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 THE I.KE.M1N(; I'AltSONAliE 
 
 We may build more splendid habita- 
 tions. 
 Fill our rooms with painting and 
 with sculpture; 
 But we cannot 
 Buy with gold the old associations! 
 Celling and walls and windows old. 
 Covered with cobwebs, blackened with 
 mould! 
 
 — Anon. 
 
 ANS CHRISTIAN 
 ANDERSON tells 
 I a charming tale of 
 the goloshes of for- 
 tune, which pos- 
 'seseed the power 
 Jof transporting the 
 Jwearer at a wish 
 I back to any past 
 I age of the world. 
 'For example, into 
 the dubious delights 
 of those "good old 
 times" familiarised by the very minute 
 and particular pencil of Hogarth! 
 
 « • • 
 
 It is quite one thing to love and rev- 
 erence the days gone by, that smooth- 
 ed the path and carved the way for 
 the feet of posterity with such pains- 
 taking labor; but It is a vastly differ- 
 ent matter to wish to have been our- 
 selves a part and parcel of those times. 
 Far preferable appears the unpreju- 
 diced blrdseye view of them which we 
 "An still obtain if the glass Is rightly 
 focussed through breaks in the roll- 
 ing vapors of time while seated at our 
 ease in the balloon of tradition. 
 
 • * • 
 
 For Instance, the councilor who, in 
 the fairy tale, was longing for "the 
 good odd times" as he unwittingly drew 
 on the goloshes, exclaimed as soon as 
 ha stepped out on the street, "Why, 
 this is Horrible (with a capital H)! 
 How dreadfully dirty It is," for the 
 whole pavement had vanished and 
 there were no lamps to be seen. 
 
 Ancaster has never h'xd any lamps, 
 
 not even tallow dips, and is waiting 
 now for the railway before she gets 
 any, but it is easy to fancy how "hor- 
 rlble"the roads and village streets must 
 have been for many months of the 
 year at the time when the first mis- 
 slonary built the old parsonage, so 
 closely bordering on 80 years ago. 
 
 The reason why a site nearly two 
 miles from the church was selected is 
 hard to account for, except on the sup- 
 position that all the land in or around 
 the village was fully appropriated, a 
 \ery large portion of It being in the 
 hands of the ubiquitous Matthew 
 Crc»oks. Those two additional miles, 
 o\er a mud road, must have added a 
 considerable item to the ministerial 
 duties, not to. mention the ministerial 
 
 backache. 
 
 • • • 
 
 To-day the Ancaster plains, as they 
 have always been called, strike one as 
 being rather hot and dry and compar- 
 atively shadeless, and at no time do 
 they appear to have been wooded with 
 heavy timber, like the lands falling 
 north and south on either side of them. 
 In those early days, which saw Rev. 
 Ralph Leeming and his people build- 
 ing the first parsonage, we are told 
 that all the plains were covered with 
 a thick growth of scrub, full of game; 
 and through which the red deer wan- 
 dered in the summer dawns and passed 
 unchallenged from water course to 
 water course. Bears were then a mere 
 circumstance in the daily round, and 
 wolves, even, lurked and howled 
 through the winter nights, and some- 
 times, growing bold with hunger, 
 would raid the ill-protected sheep 
 
 folds. 
 
 * * • 
 
 Over the fields to the south of the 
 old building to-day there is a damp, 
 woodaey swale, where picturesque trees 
 still grow, and romance still lingers, 
 
 
I 
 
 ao 
 
 WKNTWOHTIf LANDMARKH 
 
 Imt the wolves and deer and bears are 
 gone lang syne, and only a atray fox 
 or coon call In occasionally Just for a 
 chat to remind It of the good old times 
 when a modified form of Jungle law 
 kept things on the square among the 
 beasts of the Canadian forest. 
 
 The four hundred acres of the clergy 
 retierve lands lay a whole concession 
 back, and much farther to the south- 
 east than the 22 acres of globe where 
 Mr. Leemlng raised his home. They 
 embraced a fine tract of valuable land 
 
 green Is of how many feet of timber 
 they would cut up Into at the mill! 
 
 It appears reasonably certain that 
 the glebe land attached to the old par. 
 sonage was one of the free grants by 
 which the government so liberally «n- 
 ticed settlement In old times. If the 
 early worms who first came west had 
 Just been content with sitting on their 
 fences and growing up with these gov- 
 ernment grants perhaps it would have 
 amounted to the same thing at this 
 end of 80 years, instead of consclenti- 
 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 h 
 a 
 fl 
 a 
 
 ti 
 
 THE OLD PAKUONAaE— ONE OF THE EAHLIEbT BUILDINGS ERECTED IN ANCASTBR. 
 
 rirti In pi' forest, now vanished long 
 years since, gone, alas! alas! where all 
 the woods which should, in proper 
 hands, be the glory and pride of Can- 
 ada, are so rapidly following. A race 
 apparently has arisen "who knew not 
 Joseph," and whose one graceless 
 thought on finding themselves the own- 
 ers of cool, dim forest lands where, in 
 their father's days, peace and beauty, 
 bird and beast dwelt, heedless of 
 change or the passing over of destruc- 
 tion, or the drying up of the life-giv- 
 ing springs which rose in strength and 
 purity among their pleasant hills, Is 
 how much, will It fetch In hard cash? 
 
 Imagine the horrible desert a human 
 mind must be whose flirst thought at 
 sight of those glorious panoplies of 
 
 ously working themselves to death for 
 the benefit of a thankless posterity! 
 • • • 
 The little, old, decaying, neglected 
 wooden building with its strong ribs 
 and huge chimney, which forms the 
 subject of our sketch, is not only an 
 object of intrinsic Interest, but entitled 
 to respect as having headed the list as 
 the pioneer parsonage in these parts 
 and those times. It would be interest- 
 ing to know If any record was built In 
 with the foundation stone, no doubt 
 laid with a good man's prayers, but 
 even a vandal might regret doing any. 
 thing to hasten the work of decay. 
 Almost as soon kill a person to find 
 out what they were going to have died 
 of — sooner in some cases. 
 
TIIR I.RKMIN(i PARSONACiE 
 
 31 
 
 
 egrl«cted 
 ong riba 
 >rmB the 
 only an 
 entitled 
 B list as 
 «e parts 
 Interest- 
 built In 
 o doubt 
 'era, but 
 ln«r any. 
 decay, 
 to And 
 ave died 
 
 It must have been a very pleasant 
 home when all was young, cheerful 
 and bright In the summer weather and 
 tlnely sheltered from the west In snows 
 and winds by a beautiful grove of wal. 
 nut, maple and willow trees, which 
 have of late years fallen before the ax. 
 
 • * • 
 
 The original house was twice the 
 size of the front portion now remain- 
 ing, and must have been quite roomy 
 and comfortable, eepecially for a cou- 
 ple, for neither of the first missionaries 
 who inhabited it followed the usual 
 path of clerics in one respect, and 
 there were no small deacons and 
 deaconesses round their tables. Cer- 
 tainly the man who approved the 
 building of the very remarkable stair- 
 case, which remains quit" Intact, could 
 not seriously have co; <> plated hav- 
 InKT a nursery located u. Jie top of It. 
 I have seldom seen a greater proof of 
 upright character than is borne out in 
 wooden testimony by that astonishing 
 stair. A man dwelling at the top of It 
 wouIq require to be all that St. Paul 
 says a bishop should be. A hasty tem- 
 per even might alone precipitate the 
 occupant headlong or feet first down 
 Into the room below If he did not stick 
 in th'i window on the way, or keep on 
 till he reached the custards in the 
 cellar. I!: is awe inspiring in the bold 
 way it breaks at once abruptly down, 
 simply a stepping off Into chaoe. First 
 down sheer from two doors opposite 
 each other in two wings and then a 
 main descent broken into angles, and 
 variegated with cupboards and twisted 
 and turned and cork-screwed in a truly 
 wonderful manner considering that 
 land and timber were as hay and stub, 
 ble In those days. It Is a dream of a 
 stair. A night horse in wood and cup- 
 boards, like the troubled fiancies of a 
 corkscrew pursued by ghost or devil 
 pell-mell down the stair of slumber. 
 
 If any dweller beneath that roof tree 
 through the long years ever indulged 
 in toddy, he would, if a prudent man, 
 keep the bottle upstairs on the "chlm- 
 blay piece," like Mrs. Gamp, and boll 
 the kettle, lastly and In conclusion, on 
 the bedroom fire, and subsequently 
 avoid the "stair held," also the sair 
 held, if he could. 
 
 • * • 
 
 The builders of the old houses, round 
 Ancaster, at least, seem to have been 
 very sensible on the subject of air and 
 
 sunshine, as they made so many win- 
 dows that the rooms can never have 
 been dark or dull even In autumn 
 weather, with the combined light from 
 without mingling with the glow of the 
 big open (Ires within. A fine garden, 
 containing all necessary kitchen sup- 
 plies, and fruit and flowers formed a 
 notable feature of the early parson- 
 age home. No doubt in It the missionary 
 found some relaxation from the work 
 in the other vineyard, and a pleasant 
 haven of peace and change after the In- 
 terminable Journeys to his outlying 
 stations at Dundas, Uarton, Hamilton 
 and Wellington Square. Here no doubt 
 some of the pleasant, old-fashioned 
 English flowers basked away the sum- 
 mer days in the sun— seeds brought In 
 so many cases direct from the old 
 gardens at home. It is on record that 
 Mr. Leeming gave home and shelter 
 for many a day to a runaway slave 
 and his wife, who in some manner had 
 made their escape from the south. It 
 was kind and characteristic of the 
 man to take them in, even though he 
 had not, like Walt Whitman at a later 
 day, to sit beside them while they ate 
 or slept with a loaded rifle. Mr. Leem- 
 ing remained In charge of the Ancaster 
 mission for ten yeara—lSlS to 1828- 
 when the long stress of roads and 
 weather and anxiety, which had been 
 gradually doing Its sapping and min- 
 ing work, affected his health so seri- 
 ously that he was forced to give up his 
 charge into the hands of his succes.sor. 
 Mr. Miller, and seek the more genial 
 climate of the southern states. After 
 some years he again took up duty for 
 a time at Carleton Place, near Ottawa, 
 but the last years of his life were 
 spent peacefully In a country home 
 near Dundas. ilis grave Is near the 
 south wall of St. John's church, An- 
 caster, nearly opposite a handsome 
 memorial window In memory of himself 
 and his wife. A proof that this, his 
 first charge, ever held a place In his 
 heart and memory exists In the fact 
 that he left a handsome bequest of 
 more than $2,000 to begin and forward 
 the building of the present rectory. 
 Mrs. Leeming was a member of the old 
 Dundas family of Hatt. 
 
 There was once a great lawyer who 
 had three kinds of handwriting, one 
 that, the public could read, one that 
 only his clerk could read, and one that 
 nobody could read. To this latter 
 class, it is said, belonged the hand- 
 
 i 'a 
 
22 
 
 WKN T WOKTII LAN DM A K KS 
 
 THE FIREPLACE. 
 
 
 writing of the Rev. Ralph Leeming, 
 which probably in some degree ac- 
 counts for his leaving no Journals, 
 documents or registers of the churchly 
 doings of those times, which would now 
 have been so interesting a phonograph 
 to sound in our ears the echoes of 
 olden days, floating round the people's 
 church and the minister's hearthstone. 
 
 Ic Is said that any record he did 
 make was of the unsubstantial order, 
 namely a scrap of paper strung on a 
 wire like a minnow, very handy for 
 hasty reference, but not much service 
 to satisfy the curiosity of the genera- 
 tions following after. Mr. Leeming 
 was of the muscular Christian order, 
 big, kindly and benevolent, whose 
 "graciousness" still retains the favor 
 of the very few old people now left 
 who can remember him and his pleas- 
 ant parsonage home. 
 
 * • * 
 All his Journi.j bi»ing mad^ m iif- 
 cessity, on horseback, 't was impeia- 
 tive that he should keep a couple of 
 good mudsters, warranted to stand 
 wear and tear, and able to show the 
 winter wolves a clean pair of heels on 
 occasion. One old man, alive and vig- 
 
 orous, and the best of company to- 
 day, remembers about 75 years ago, in 
 the month of June, of Mr. Leeming 
 coming, on horseback, to pay a friend- 
 ly visit to his father, in the course of 
 which it was arranged that the hard- 
 worked ministerial nag, scarcely recov- 
 ered perhaps with recent tussels with 
 the mud which bubbled in the spring 
 t!i0se times, was to be left at pasture 
 In the rich farm lands, and Its place 
 to be supplied meanwhile from the 
 farm stock. Unfortunately the church- 
 ly quadruped did not know when It 
 was well off, and proved to be a sort 
 of progressive eucher party on four 
 
 legs. 
 
 • • * 
 
 After a time, not satisfied with rich 
 pastures and rest beside waters of 
 comfort, the unhallowed desire arose 
 to see what was in the world beyond 
 the fences guarding the pale. Like that 
 other progressive biped In the Garden 
 of Eden, one kick over was enough, 
 and in both cases rather too much. The 
 top rail off, the rest was easy, as it 
 generally Is, and the church horse 
 found himself in a pleasant garden, 
 full of forbidden fruits (for which he 
 did not care particularly, as he could 
 have them if he liked). But there, on 
 
^ 
 
 THE LEEMING I'AKSOXACJK 
 
 33 
 
 f 
 
 
 •mpany to- 
 •ars ago, in 
 V. Leeming 
 ly a friend- 
 course of 
 the hard- 
 ■cely recov- 
 issels with 
 the spring 
 at pasture 
 its place 
 from the 
 ;he church, 
 when it 
 be a sort 
 ;y on four 
 
 with rich 
 
 waters of 
 
 fcsire arose 
 
 pld beyond 
 
 Like that 
 
 le Garden 
 
 enough, 
 
 luch. The 
 
 lasy, as it 
 
 rch horse 
 
 )t garden, 
 
 which he 
 
 he could 
 
 there, on 
 
 the sunny side, were surely some 
 strange objects, the lilte of which had 
 never come his way before. No time 
 must be lost without a satisfactory In- ^. 
 vestigation, so he draws near, puts * 
 down his head and sniffs, draws back, ' 
 thinks better of it for a quarter of a 
 second, then stoops and sniffs again, 
 and then gives it an irrevocable push 
 and starts back in a fright. Out swarm 
 the dusky hordes of the avenging bees 
 
 A CURIOUS STAIKWAY. 
 
 as the hive tips over, and fasten tooth 
 and nail on the head and neck, up 
 the nostrils and down the throat of 
 the astonished, plunging horse, who 
 dashes off wild and mad to escape 
 from this new and terrible thing which 
 has come to him in his headlong flight, 
 overturning as many as thirty or forty 
 skips of bees, who all hurry to Join 
 their comrades in arms until it was 
 l\ard to distinguish horse hide from 
 l)ees. The impromptu steeplechase of 
 this Mazeppa round the astonished 
 srarden and across the sunny plains 
 lasted nearly twenty minutes from 
 
 start to finish, when he fell to rise no 
 more, the victim of a misdirected spirit 
 of enquiry. Some one remembers 
 hearing (in Arcady) of a phantom 
 night horse which was to be met at 
 times tearing over the fields and roads 
 not two miles from Anoaster village, 
 but was severely snubbed for giving 
 credence to this tale, and told that 
 Canada was far too young a country 
 to have anything in it so interesting, 
 but here in a beehive lies the key 
 to the legend. No doubt it was the 
 ghost of this horse, who had "met 
 the thing too much." Thus we gen- 
 erally find truth at the bottom of the 
 well, or in amongst the bees after all! 
 
 • • • 
 
 The great object in house-building 
 In the early days of Canada West seems 
 to have been to use as much wood, 
 and in as solid a manner, as possible. 
 It is not usual to make one's first en- 
 trance into a house through the cellar, 
 but to leave the cellars of these old- 
 timers unvisited would be to miss half 
 the point. They are so solid, so un- 
 changed, where all is changed, only a 
 little whitewash and a few shelves 
 wanted to bring them up to date again. 
 The cellar beneath the old parsonage 
 strikes the beholder at first sight as 
 having a large open fireplace in the 
 center, but on running to look up the 
 chimney, only a massive floor appears 
 over head, and the flying buttresses of 
 stone which so readily suggest ingle 
 nooks, resolve themselves into two 
 strong shoulders fashioned to bear the 
 weight of the big center chimney of 
 the dwelling. 
 
 • * • 
 
 Across the ceiling run the firm 
 beams that hold the flooring, sound 
 and good to-day, and still wearing the 
 bark shirts they brought with them 
 fi-om the forest glades that lay so near 
 to hand, just over the ridge, below 
 the plains 
 
 • * • 
 
 If the cellar could talk perhaps we 
 should hear lots of doonestic items. 
 Here the vegetables from the fine gar- 
 den would find refuge from the frosts 
 of winter. Here, on a shelf perhaps, 
 in the draught 'twixt door and win- 
 dow the ministerial Betty, coming 
 carefully down the steep stairs on 
 those far-off Saturday afternoons, 
 would place the Sunday custards all In 
 a row, and other good things ready 
 for the refreshing of his weary rever- 
 
24 
 
 WENTWOKTU LANDMARKS 
 
 ence on the morrow. Life In the early 
 times had one agreeable element which 
 Is sadly lacking now in country places, 
 and the deprivation of many comforts, 
 the want of accustomed things con- 
 genial, which must have been over- 
 whelmingly painful to some imported 
 natures, had at least one redeeming 
 feature in the fact that do-mestic ser- 
 vants were plentiful and cheap! 
 
 « • « 
 
 One can but faintly imagine what a 
 change, at the best of times, life must 
 have been for gentlewomen of culture 
 and education, transplanted from the 
 refined surroundings of English life, 
 and set down in the raw aJr of that 
 dawn o* Canada. 
 
 « * * 
 
 No doubt the early graves in our old 
 church yards cover the bones of many 
 an uncalendared saint or martyr, and 
 the hearth stones of the aged homes 
 could tell of a few pints of quiet tears 
 dropped on their rough faces, while 
 seeing in the beech and maple embers 
 odd fancies of the homes beyond the 
 sea. So always it seems to be the 
 world over, from Eden downwards, 
 that the man goes forth to the exile 
 of foreign lands, and the woman fol- 
 lows him. Thus did Eve get even with 
 her Adam for sneaking and telling 
 tales on her. 
 
 * « * 
 
 Those early colonial women are 
 worthy of most lavish praise! What 
 must they not have endured and suf- 
 fered In the rough, new land of their 
 adoption with six weeks of tossing 
 ocean between them and the dear Brit- 
 ish homes left for long, perhaps for- 
 ever. 
 
 * • * 
 
 The inborn loyalty of Canadians is 
 not hard, or far, to trace to those who 
 strongly believe In the permanent ef- 
 fects of pre-natal influence. Through 
 those long months of weakness and 
 hours of pain the very soul would ache 
 and pine for the familiar scenes and 
 faces in the home beyond the wave, 
 crossed and recrossed a score of times 
 a day by love on mighty wings, as the 
 old German song says: 
 
 That whlck alls me past all healing 
 Is that here alone I stand; 
 
 Far from father, far from mother. 
 Far from home and native land. 
 
 it * * * * 
 
 Ah! were I to hoi.ie returning, 
 Ah! how gladly would I fly. 
 
 Home to father, ho'me to mother. 
 Home to native rocks and sky. 
 
 « • * 
 
 So the old parsonage. It is pretty cer- 
 tain, knew homesick tears within Its 
 walls once upon a time. The effect 
 upon posterity, however, has been un- 
 deniable and immense. Is there an- 
 other nation on the globe who won't 
 put out their plants, or take off their 
 flannels until May 24 except loyal 
 Canucks? Fanny Kemble in the States, 
 and our own queen of Canadian au- 
 thoresses, Mrs. Trail, the aged, have 
 given vivid flash pictures of the lives 
 endured, nobly and well. In those early 
 days, by gentlewomen fresh from the 
 well-oiled life of England. They were 
 not new women at all; they didn't 
 want to b^ emancipated; they wouldn't 
 
 ALEX. UITCHIE'S TOMB. 
 
 have known what to do with a tele- 
 phone, and a she-biker, in tan gaiters, 
 would have made them blush, but they 
 were very noble in their devotion, and 
 make one think of the Princess of the 
 Day Dream: 
 
 And on her lover's arm she leant. 
 
 And round her waist she felt it fold; 
 And far across the hills they went 
 
 In that new world which is the old. 
 
 And o'er them many a sliding star, 
 And many a merry wind was borne. 
 
 And, streamed through many a golden 
 bar, 
 The twilight melted into morn. 
 
 And o'er the hills and far away, 
 Beyond their utmost purple rim, 
 
 Beyond the night, across the day. 
 Thro' all the world she followed him. 
 
 * * « 
 
 And posterity only hopes Adam duly 
 appreciated the sacrifice. 
 
 AL,MA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 y 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 .. »,. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, ANCASTEK 
 
 Adam duly 
 
 Sleep, thou art named eternal! Is 
 there then 
 
 No chance of waking in thy noiseless 
 realm? 
 
 Come there no fretful dream to over- 
 whelm 
 
 The feverish spirits of o'erlabored 
 men? 
 
 * 4i « « * * 
 
 Shall pain indeed lie folded 
 With tired arms around her head, 
 And "nemory be stretched upon a bed 
 Of t , whence she shall never rise 
 
 ain? 
 O sleep, that art eternall Say, shall 
 
 love 
 Breathe like an Infant slumbering at 
 
 the breast V 
 Shall hope there cease to throb; and 
 
 shall the smart 
 Of things impossible at length find 
 
 rest? 
 Thou answerest not! The poppy-heads 
 
 above 
 Thy calm brow sleep — how cold, how 
 
 still thou art! 
 
 — ^Sonnet. 
 
 * • • 
 
 ITHOUT doubt 
 the Lord might 
 have made a 
 better berry 
 than the 
 
 s t r a w b e rry, 
 said the fam- 
 ous Dr. Bote, 
 ler, but with- 
 out doubt He 
 never did. 
 Doubtless Grod 
 might have 
 made a more 
 restful, pretty and attractive burial 
 ground than the one surrounding St. 
 John's church, Ancaster, but doubt- 
 less He never did. When William 
 Chambers, of Edinburgh, embalmed 
 Dundas in his diary as a place to live 
 and die in, he might have added An- 
 caster to his eulogium as a place in 
 which to be buried, and doubtless he 
 would have done so had he seen it. 
 
 * * * 
 
 The stiffly tapering line of ever- 
 
 greens which help to shelter the silent 
 land from the glare of sinking suns 
 and the bite of wintry winds also serve 
 to conceal the charms which stretch 
 away behind them warmly to the 
 south, and in the grey church's 
 shadow towards the sunrise. It may 
 perhaps be conceded that the majority 
 of rural churchyards in Canada, or 
 any comparatively new country, have 
 a bald uniformity of type sufficient to 
 give any but a dreamless sleeper the 
 nightmare. Strange anomalies they 
 are, some of them; neither neat town 
 cemetery, nor neglected country 
 churchyard, but a mix-up of both, 
 commingling a dash of town primness 
 with the untidy want of finish which 
 is the characteristic of country things 
 in general. 
 
 Sometimes the site seems to have 
 been selected on account of its flatness 
 and aridity and complete absence of 
 large shade trees, places which in the 
 summer heat suggest vague thoughts 
 of dried apples in a paper bag, and 
 vain speculation in the frivolous mind, 
 as to what a dust an unwatered resur- 
 rection would raise. 
 
 But there are many exceptions to be 
 found, especially in the Grore district. 
 Here, at St. John's, for instance, pass- 
 ing round the corner of the church by 
 the path bentath the big flr tree on 
 the right, surroundings appear which 
 well might furnish a Canadian Gray 
 with material for another elegpy. 
 
 Ah! that narrow path beneath the 
 firs! A via dolorosa indeed leads here, 
 watered by the tears of generations. 
 Along it and by this way alone, for 
 more than 70 years, the precious seed 
 garnered by death has been carried 
 and sown, with sorrow, In corruption, 
 to be raised again, with joy, in glory. 
 A host is encamped here in these green 
 tents— forgotten and remembered, un- 
 lamented in death, as they were un- 
 
 t 
 
26 
 
 WENTWOKTII LAN DM AUKS 
 
 appreciated In life; cherished still 
 warmly In the heart of hearts — for- 
 given and understood now too late — 
 under new and costly monuments, or 
 sunken down, down, unmarked and 
 unknown, forgotten of all living. Truly 
 a multitude are here, and the uneven 
 earth gives testimony that it Is honey- 
 combed with graves which appear not, 
 and those who walk over them only 
 
 The very first tomb close to the path- 
 way takes one back quite to the early 
 days by the dates on its long, ram- 
 bling face. It is to the memory of 
 Jane, wife of Henry Schoolcraft, Esq., 
 born at St. Mary's Falls In 1800. She 
 died, it farther appears, at Dundas in 
 1842 in the arms of her sister, Mrs. 
 McMurray, during a visit at the house 
 of the rector of this parish, while her 
 
 ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, ANCA8TEK. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 know by the billowing hollows of the 
 turf that they tread on sacred ground. 
 
 Thus o'er the gleaming track of life 
 
 the generations run- 
 Do they to clouded darkness pass, oi 
 
 to a brighter sun? 
 Does nothing spiritual live? Can soul 
 
 become a sod? 
 Ts man on earth an orphan? Is crea- 
 tion void of God? 
 
 And from those lands so near to heav- 
 en have wondrous voices come 
 
 Of God's eternal Fatherhood and man's 
 celestial home. 
 
 husband was absent in England and 
 her children at a distant school. She 
 was the eldest daughter of John John- 
 son, Esq., and Susan, daugliter of 
 Wankopeeo, a celebrated war chief 
 and civil ruler of the Ojibbeway tribe. 
 The Inscription runs on to state that 
 "carefully educated and of polished 
 manners and conversation, she was 
 easily fitted to adorn society, yet of 
 retiring and modest deportment. Early 
 imbued with principles of true piety, 
 she patiently submitted to the illness 
 which for several years marked her 
 decline and was Inspired through sea- 
 
1 
 
 \ 
 
 » the path- 
 > the early 
 ong, ram- 
 lemory of 
 raft, Esq., 
 1800. She 
 Dundas in 
 Iter, Mrs. 
 the house 
 while her 
 
 
 land and 
 ool. She 
 hn John- 
 sliter of 
 irar chief 
 ay tribe, 
 bate that 
 
 polished 
 she was 
 , yet of 
 it. Early 
 16 piety, 
 le illness 
 
 ked her 
 ugh sea- 
 
 \ 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 :1 1 
 
 :i I 
 
 ■:1Si: 
 
 ■f'J 
 
 i 
 
 ! 'i 
 
 ■; 7 
 
 li': 
 

 ^^ 
 
 I 
 
ST. John's church, ancaster 
 
 29 
 
 sons of bodily and mental depression 
 with the lively hope of a blessed im- 
 mortality." 
 
 The inscription ends with a long 
 poem beginning, "Here rests, by kin- 
 dred hands enshrined." 
 
 The mention of this lady's grand- 
 father being an OJibbeway war chief 
 conjures up a vision of war paint and 
 feathers and takes one back a long 
 way Into the last century. 
 
 Perhaps the oldest gravestone in 
 good preservation in the churchyard 
 is one very massive slab serving to 
 keep green the memory of "Alexander 
 Ritchie and Mary Lucia, his wife, who 
 both departed this life at Ancaster on 
 the nth of April, A. D. 1823." It 
 would be nice to know more about this 
 couple who, it is to be hoped, found 
 tlieir lives together lovely and pleas- 
 ant, as It seems they were not death- 
 divided for even a day, which might 
 be looked upon as the very height of 
 blessedness, or the reverse, just as the 
 case might be. Though dead, and under 
 the big slab for more than 65 years, 
 they have only at a comparatively re- 
 cent date found a final rest under the 
 oaks and roses in St. John's church- 
 yard, having been removed from the 
 old Hatt burying ground about a mile 
 away. 
 
 • * * 
 
 The glory of the churchyard Is its 
 grove of oaks which are sprinkled 
 here and there amongst the graves 
 and even close up to the chancel win- 
 dows — very beautiful trees and grow- 
 ing more oracular every year, with 
 bushier heads and sturdy, rugged 
 boles — where they stand grouped thick- 
 ly together with interlacing boughs 
 down near the eastern boundary fence, 
 an old and mossy one, In the oldest 
 part of the yard as well as the fair- 
 est—very peaceful, very quiet, very 
 overgrown with great bushes of sweet 
 white syringa, and roses, almost re- 
 verted to type by now, nodding over 
 beds of llly-of-the-valley, sending up 
 its rank green spears like signals from 
 the dead below. Here the birds sing 
 and fly all summer long and the 
 shadows play in the sunlight, and it 
 is so enchantingly peaceful that it 
 seems to take away all gruesome 
 shrinking from being dead — only we 
 feel sorry for the people under the big 
 tombs, for they seem more dead a-nd 
 far away than those who have only a 
 
 sheet of earth and a green quilt be- 
 tween them and the light and warmth 
 of the air and sunshine Down here, 
 right in amongst the oaks, are several 
 old upright slabs, dated more than 60 
 years ago. Most of them are of the 
 Gurnett family, one of the real old 
 pioneers, who, coming originally froim 
 France, where their name was then De 
 Gumey, settled for a longer or shorter 
 space in the south of England, and 
 Anally some of the family crossed the 
 ocean and took root at young An- 
 caster. They evidently brought French 
 wit and English push with them, for 
 one of them was editor and founder of 
 the Gore Gazette in the twenties, and 
 another attained civic honors as 
 mayor of Toronto, and so the succeed- 
 ing generations as they pass are laid 
 In a most pleasant resting place there 
 
 GRAVE OP LIEUT. MILNE, R.N., IN ANCAS- 
 TER CEMETERY. 
 
 beneath the green canopy of oak 
 leaves in this still garden of the souls. 
 
 Then be not fearful of the thought of 
 change, 
 For though unknown the tones that 
 are to be, 
 Yet shall they prove most beautifully 
 strange. 
 
 • * • 
 
 In the old portion of the churchyard. 
 In th? southeast corner, beneath a 
 very heavy tombstone of the fashion 
 of the day, lies anchored for time a 
 British heart of oak, high and dry 
 enough now under the shadow of the 
 oak trees, far from the sea he loved, 
 and over which he sailed and fought 
 under Lord Nelson when the century 
 was young. He who put in at last to 
 this quiet haven in 1826, was, so the 
 legend above him runs, Lieut. Milne, 
 of the Royal navy, born at Falkirk in 
 1766. 
 
 lii 
 
30 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 ■^^ 
 
 I i 
 
 ONE OF THR OLDKHT TOMBSTONES IN 
 
 ANCASTKR CKMKTERY— THAT OF 
 
 LEMUEL GURNETT. 
 
 The Tiffany monument, a tall shaft 
 surmounted by an urn, is rather a 
 conspicuous and venerable, not to say 
 mossy, object, not far from the oak 
 trees either. Here rest many of the 
 Tlffanys, notably Dr. Oliver Tiffany, 
 who also left a remembrance to pos- 
 terity In the name "Tiffany's Falls," 
 given to a water fall on hla property, 
 not far from the village. This old 
 gentleman died in May, 1835, aged 72 
 years, and the old records state that 
 more than 600 people came to his fun- 
 eral. 
 
 • * • 
 
 Some of the inscriptions on the 
 stones are utterly obliterated by moss 
 and weather. Two simple ones, just 
 behind the chancel, excite curiosity 
 by their brevity — only two initials on 
 each and the date 1823. 
 
 And year by year the laborer tills 
 His wonted glebe, or lops the glades 
 And year by year our memory fades 
 
 From all the circle of the hills. 
 
 One memory has been kept very un- 
 faded, in so far as being writ in stone 
 can preserve it, through the storms of 
 70 years. The swirling snows of all 
 those winters have remembered to 
 seek it out low down there amongst 
 the rustling sere grasses, and tracing 
 out the Inscription with their softest 
 
 white Angers, have clothed it always 
 new in a pure white co\ering, meet 
 for the virgin dust which rests there, 
 far from home and kindred. The birds 
 know it too, and trill their sweet mat- 
 ing songs every spring above the 
 Stranger's Tomb. The wild rose bush 
 throws caressing arms across the slab, 
 guarding its treasure there through 
 such long flights of time, and the 
 grasses creep up to listen to the winds 
 blowing soft above it, and whispering 
 to the flowers of what they saw so long 
 ago. The sun In his noonday glory 
 seeks it out, and even in the evening 
 shadows sends a beam to kiss the pa- 
 thetic inscription Into warmth, and 
 bring out in fresh relief the ancient 
 quaintness of the carved weeping wil- 
 lows at each corner of the slab that 
 look so formal, as if their hair was 
 parted in, the middle into exactly eleven 
 strands on each side, and In between 
 which is carved also, on a stiff, box- 
 like pedestal, an urn bearing the name 
 "Eliza." Bordering the slab all round 
 is cut an ornate wreath of oak leaves 
 and acorns, within which the fast 
 blackening letters tell that this dark, 
 ponderous stone is sacred to the mem- 
 ory of "Eliza M. Johnson, daughter of 
 Elisha Johnson, Esq., of Rochester, 
 New York, U.S.A., who departed this 
 life 15 September, 1827, In the 18th year 
 of her age — a stranger's grave, hon- 
 ored by her respected local friends." 
 Then below is the hymn, "The hour 
 of my departure's come," etc. 
 
 This young lady died while on a 
 visit at the house of Matthew Crooks, 
 and one of the invitations to her fun- 
 eral has been preserved. A curious- 
 looking document it is, folded In paper 
 sealed with a huge black seal, and 
 printed card enclosed, of a make and 
 texture to stand a long life of seventy 
 years' esclusion, printed presumably 
 by Editor Gumett, and requesting the 
 recipient to attend the funeral of Miss 
 Eliza Maria Johnson, eldest daughter, 
 etc., froim the house of Matthew 
 Crooks, Esq., Ancaster, to the place of 
 interment at 11 o'clock a.m., on Sept. 
 15, 1827. 
 
 • * * 
 
 They evidently believed in those 
 times that in the place where the tree 
 fell there it should lie, and certainly 
 this young stranger has slept well in 
 St. John's churchyard these seven de- 
 cades nearly past. 
 
 m 
 
ST. JOHN S CHURCH, ANCASTER 
 
 3» 
 
 
 While the pioneers of the Oore dis- 
 trict were plantlnsT and buildingr and 
 trading and clearing and making 
 homea and names for themselves end 
 postertty, they were not forgotten 
 spiritually by the mother church of 
 the old land beyond the seas. Thus, 
 during the summer of 1818. by Sir 
 John Cockb urn's desire, the society 
 for the propagation of the gospel in 
 foreign parts, sent out to these sheep 
 in the wilderness Rev. Ralph Leemlng 
 as first missionary to Ancaster and 
 parts adjacent. Mr. Leemlng, who 
 was a native of Yorkshire, had grad- 
 uated at St. Bee's college, and been 
 ordained by the Bishop of London. 
 Ancaster being the most Important 
 place, with the exception of Niagara 
 and muddy little York, in those days, 
 he naturally made his headquarters 
 there, visiting Hamilton, Barton, 
 Flamboro and Wellington Square at 
 sta;ted Intervals, generally through 
 roads that must be left to the Imagln. 
 atlon, and always on horseback. Not 
 long after his arrival he caused the 
 first parsonage of Ancaster to be 
 built for his accommodation, of which 
 more hereafter. 
 
 • • • 
 
 The first services were held in a 
 hall or school house, built of logs, not 
 far from the present site of the 
 church. Soon after 1820, the Rousseau 
 family, having presented the land for 
 the purpose, the first frame church 
 was built on the Nehemiah plan by 
 the united efforts of both Church of 
 England and Presbyterian people, 
 who jointly held services there for 
 some years, the first Scotch minister 
 not being appointed to Ancaster be- 
 fore 1826, until which year Mr. Leem- 
 
 lng cured all the souls and provided 
 for all the services, and perhaps that 
 is the reason that he left no scrape of 
 a pen behind him to enlighten us as 
 to the churchly doings of those first 
 days — whom he burled, whom he mar- 
 ried, whom he christened, what their 
 names were; all, all is lost, passed long 
 since unrecorded to the land of for- 
 gotten things. The first church had 
 no chancel, and two white glass win- 
 dows, high up above the pulpit, fac- 
 ing the gallery, which ran across the 
 west end over the door. What music 
 they had we do not know, as the 
 organ was not obtained until the 
 fifties. One wide aisle alone ran down 
 the center, and on one side sat the men 
 and or. the other the women, a relic 
 of cathedral custom. After some 
 years, the money was advanced by 
 Job Loder to enable the Anglicans to 
 buy out the Presbyterians' Interest In 
 the church, who then set about the 
 building of their own, and shortly 
 after the church was consecrated 
 and christened by Its present name of 
 St. John's. But here, rogrettably, 
 Mr. Leemlng's pen failed to record im- 
 pressions! Mr. Leemlng retired from 
 active service as far as Ancaster and 
 the other places mentioned were con- 
 cerned, In 1830, although he lived to 
 be a very old man, dying In 1872, at 
 the age of 83. His grave lies on the 
 south side of the church, and Is mark- 
 ed by a handsome monument as 
 well as a memorial window. The 
 church of his creation survived, with 
 the addition of a stone chancel, until 
 Feb. 28, 1868, when It caught fire 
 through some defect in the heating 
 department and went after the un- 
 written records. 
 
 ALMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 I 
 
 
 'n 
 
 :i ■ 
 
 MRS. SCHOOLCRAFT'S TOMB. 
 (Daughter of Chief Johnston.) 
 
1 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 ij 
 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 ANCASTER IN THE VICTOIUAN EKA 
 
 Te hasten to the dead! What seek ye 
 
 there, 
 Ye restless thoughts and busy purposes 
 Of the idle brain, which the world's 
 livery wears. 
 O thou quick heart which pantest to 
 possess 
 All that anticipation feigrneth fair! 
 IShovL vainly ourlous mind that wouldst 
 STuess 
 Whence thou didat come, and whith- 
 er thou mayst go. 
 And that which never yet was known 
 wouldst know — 
 Oh. whither hasten ye that thus ye 
 
 press 
 With such swift feet life's green and 
 pleasant path. 
 Seeking alike from happiness and 
 woe 
 A refUKe in the cavern of grey death? 
 O heart and mind, and thoughts! What 
 thing do you 
 Hope to inherit in the grave below? 
 
 —Shelley. 
 
 * * • 
 
 NCASTER in 
 
 June, 1837, so says 
 tradition, had a 
 grand demonstra- 
 tion in honor of 
 our gracious maj- 
 esty's coronation. 
 A few of the old 
 people in the land 
 can still recall 
 the fireworks and 
 the fun of that 
 W tR (!R1 June nig'ht, for 
 
 K B 'St ^^^ ' ^^^ funnier 
 
 p ^ ^ 60 years ago, and 
 
 not so frequent, 
 so it made a more 
 lasting impres- 
 sion, and there 
 was plenty of 
 wood for bonfires 
 in those good old 
 days and no electricity to put their 
 firework* to the blush. 
 
 * • * 
 
 Watching the loyal Ancastrians of 
 1897 Jubilating round a grand bonfire 
 on Gabel's hill, forming one of the 
 
 ii»<r9-r:_ •< 
 
 links in the fiery chain understood to 
 be stretching from Halifax to Van- 
 couver last Tuesday night, also to be 
 astonishing the inhabitants of Mars, 
 somehow time seemed to be bridged 
 over in some strange, real way, as 
 with a hand stretched out from the 
 dimness of the past so long gone, tak- 
 ing with it the major part of all who 
 could have recalled ihe gala doings 
 on that night at t'other end of 60 years 
 ago. 
 
 • • • 
 
 As the vivid light of the bonfire 
 danced gleefully over the dewy fields, 
 and waked up the sleeping woods by 
 plucking their green sleeves with its 
 rosy fingers, it glinted, too, on the 
 Scotch chuTch towers and walls, and 
 flickered up and down the shining 
 granite pillars of the newer tombs, 
 and over the flowery coverlets of many 
 a one, maybe, who was young and gay 
 on that coronation night, but who fin- 
 ished their life work long, long ago; 
 and "Home have gone, and ta'en their 
 wages," leaving only a shadow here, 
 where the sea of human life breaks 
 round this shora of death with such a 
 softened sound. 
 
 • * * 
 
 Our common expressions become 
 from use so hackneyed that we lose 
 sight of the original weight and 
 beauty. Thus those touching words, 
 "Sacred to the Memory," slip glibly off 
 our tongues without much realisation 
 of their true significance, or how ex- 
 quisite, how pathetic, how expressive 
 are those tender lingerlngs over the 
 memory of the dead. A sacred place 
 in memory, and a narrow, narrow niche 
 on Mother Earth's brown breast Is all 
 the dearest claim from us till time 
 shall be no more, 
 
 • * * 
 
 Quite in the early days of Ancaster, 
 before the rearing of church walls, 
 the Presbyterians and Episcopalians 
 alike worshipped In a hall adjoining 
 
 i 
 
1^ 
 
 ANCASTEU IN TMK VICTOHIAN EKA 
 
 33 
 
 one of the hotels which stood on the 
 left hand side of the street Kolng up 
 the village, hard by the site of the 
 present town hall. In 1826 the Church 
 of Scotland sent Its first missionary 
 minister to establish a soul cure at 
 Ancaster, and she apparently made a 
 wise selection in the p<Tson of Rev, 
 Oeorge Sheed, whose name is vener- 
 
 
 manifested such dlsjjUKt on one oc- 
 casion, when entertaining a young pro. 
 batloner of a later school, who hung 
 heavily in hand converBationally, put- 
 ting the old minister hard to it, till at 
 length he asked, "Will ye hae a 
 snoke?" "Oh, no! I never use to- 
 bacco In any form," was the reply. 
 (A p. use.) "Will y« no tak' a glass o' 
 toddy?"' (Look of horror.) "Oh, I 
 never touch spirits." Then, contem- 
 plating him quietly over his spec- 
 tacles, the old gentleman demanded, 
 in a politely suppressed voice, "D'ye 
 eat hay?" "Oh, no, I never eat hay," 
 in a very astonished tone, on which 
 the minister burst forth In a voice of 
 thunder, "Aweel, then, gang ye'er 
 ways hame, my man, ye're neither 
 Kuid ciimpany for man nor beast!" 
 
 THE PKEBBYTKKIAN CHUKUH. 
 
 ated even to tiiis day by those who 
 linow him only by tradition, or the 
 fact that he was the minister who mar- 
 ried their parents. This good man 
 came straight from the land o' cakes, 
 where even to this day there are in- 
 frequent ministers to be found who 
 can not only minister to the soul op- 
 pressed by sin or sorrow, but drink a 
 glass of toddy when they're damp, as 
 they very often are in Scotland, and 
 even dance a good Scotch reel, able, 
 like true men, to use the good things 
 of life without abusing them, remem- 
 bering that great David danced before 
 the ark, and David's greater Son turn- 
 ed water Into wine. It was one of these 
 sturdy, old-fashioned men of God who 
 
 Tradition says that this first Scot -h 
 minister of Ancaster was not on.y 
 "guid company," but a splendid man 
 and an indefatigable worker for 
 church and people. His home was a 
 mile and more from the village in the 
 beautiful valley near the Sulphur 
 Springs, in the original Hermitage 
 house, of which an Illustration, taken 
 from an old sketch, is here given. 
 * « • 
 
 An ideal manse it must have been, 
 standing there amongst the woods and 
 waters, surrounded by a garden where 
 
 .11 
 
 i 
 
 ! V 
 
34 
 
 WKNTWOKTII LANDMARKS 
 
 the minister worked at his leisure, and 
 contalnlnv within Its walla pleasant 
 rooms with small-paned windows and 
 large flreplaces, up from which the 
 wood smoke curled through the red 
 chimneys. Life was pleasant there 
 in those old days, tradition saith, and 
 delving and studying were varied now 
 and then by cosy little dinner parties, 
 where the bachelor minister was the 
 best of company and most Jovial of 
 hosts, but whether they had toddy 
 aiter dinner tradition does not say. 
 "Albllns" they had, and made the 
 floors shake with reels, too, perhaps. 
 • • • 
 
 The great object and desire of the 
 minister's life, unhampered by matri- 
 monial cares, as the man of Ood 
 should be, was to see the accomplish- 
 ed fact of a cliurch at Ancaster for 
 his people, the Episcopalians having 
 now for some years been established 
 In St. John's, at the head of the vil- 
 lage. Headed by the indefatigable 
 minister and most materially assisted 
 by Col. Chep, William Notman and 
 other pioneer families, the first church 
 rose gradually near the place occu- 
 pied by the present building. It was 
 built entirely of wood and was doubt- 
 less a source of unmlngled pride and 
 congratulation In its younger days to 
 all the assistant Nehemiahs, which 
 makes it a trifle sad to have to record 
 that, in spite of the edifying dis- 
 courses that had saturated Its walls 
 for years, and the earnest prayers 
 which must have invisibly perforated 
 Its roof In their upward flight through 
 countless Sabbaths, it fell from grace 
 and survived its usefulness as a 
 church In the eyes of later genera- 
 tions and the estimation of the pres- 
 bytery and was sold, removed into 
 the next lot and turned into a cigar 
 factory. Imperial Caesar, turned to 
 clay, little knows to what strange 
 uses he maiy come. 
 
 Fire, however, quivering hotly with 
 burning Indignation, entered a speedy 
 protest, and carried off the poor, little 
 degraded church up to heaven In a 
 sheet of flame one December night 
 some fifteen years ago. 
 
 Rather a sad part in this church's 
 early history is that, like Moses, Mr. 
 Sheed was not permitted to enjoy the 
 fruit of his labor. Never within the 
 walls which he had watched arise 
 was his voice to be heard in prayer 
 
 or sermon! He had built, but another 
 should inhabit. He had labored, but 
 that others should enjoy the fruit of 
 his labor. The opening ceremony of 
 that church was indeed a solemn 
 function, being the beloved minis- 
 ter's funeral, his death occurring be- 
 fore the completion of the interior 
 work, a temporary floor of boards 
 over the beams was laid In haste 
 that he might be brought within his 
 church once, at least, and he, being 
 dead, would yet speak to the hearts 
 of his people there for the first and 
 last time. 
 
 * * • 
 
 Then they carried him forth and 
 buried him, the first Inhabitant of 
 that pretty graveyard (perish the 
 word "cemetery" as ever Inapplicable 
 to country churchyards!) and his 
 sepulchre is with us to this day, be- 
 ing of the ponderous kind, built to 
 withstand summer suns and winter 
 rag<es. It guards well beneath that 
 massive slab and firm stone walls the 
 precious germ of life immortal, which 
 has been hidden away there In earth's 
 safe keeping since five years 
 before those coronation. bonfires 
 blazed. The legend on the slab tells 
 that he was an A.M., also a native of 
 Aberdeen, and that he planted and 
 faithfully watched over the church 
 for the space of six years, when he 
 was removed to his reward Nov. 26, 
 1832, aged 43; also that it was erected 
 by his friends as a memorial of his 
 worth as a man and his zeal and 
 abilities as a minister, and below the 
 deep-cut letters run "The righteous 
 shall be had in everlasting remem- 
 brance." 
 
 • • • 
 
 In the ok' register of St. John's 
 church, Ancaster, one of the numerous 
 N.B.'s in, "On Sunday, Dec. 2, 1832, at- 
 tended the Presbyterian church in the 
 morning at funeral sermon for Rev. 
 Mr. Sheed." Things were different 
 then, but nowadays It would speak 
 pretty well of his "worth as a man" if 
 other clergy shut their churches In 
 order to attend his funeral sermon! 
 
 The completing touch to the church 
 was the bell, which was purchased by 
 subscription, headed by Col. Chep with 
 his usual liberality. He also attended 
 personally to the purchase and sent 
 one of his teams to meet It at Ham- 
 ilton. It is now the only thing remain- 
 
i 
 
 ANCASTEK IN THE VICTORIAN ERA 
 
 35 
 
 Ing of the original church, but, unfor- 
 tunately from some defect In the hang> 
 Ins arrangement It cannot, since Its re> 
 moval to the new church, be tolled at 
 furerals, which Is a pity, as It pos- 
 Besfles a remarkably good tone for its 
 size. It Is very much to be regretted 
 that It bears no Inscription of any 
 kind except the maker's name, "E. 
 Force, New York, 1835." 
 • • • 
 How much the past generations 
 might have done for us If they had 
 only been a trifle more explicit. Urev- 
 Ity may be the soul of wit, but we 
 would like a little more body regard- 
 ing facts occasionally. How much 
 more satisfactory, for Instance, a re- 
 membered inscription on the tenor bell 
 In the eight chimes of Skerborne 
 Minster, Dorsetshire, England, where 
 anyone with a good head many read to 
 this day the declaration on the bell 
 which has been chiming sweetly every 
 day for three hundred years: 
 
 "By Wolsey's gift I measure time to 
 
 all. 
 To mirth, to grief, to prayer I call." 
 
 What an additional Interest some of 
 the donors names would give to this 
 young bell of '35! 
 
 Bell! thou soundest solemnly 
 When on Sabbath morning. 
 Fields deserted lie! 
 
 Bell! thou soundest mournfully: 
 Tellest thou the bitter 
 
 Parting hath gone by! 
 
 It appears quite possible to pass hun- 
 dreds of times along the Sulphur 
 Springs road, which runs below the 
 church, and yet remain oblivious of 
 the rural beauty hiding behind that 
 prosaic picket fence and playing hide- 
 and-seek there, among the granite 
 shafts and old flat tombstones, all In 
 the sweet June weather with the sun- 
 light and the bees. The birds have 
 found it out long ago, and they, too, 
 find homes there where the tall grrassea 
 rustle and the bumble bees drone 
 above the silent company. There where 
 there Is so lavish an out-pouring 
 wealth of ox-eyed daisies glancing so 
 shyly at the grand blue sky, where the 
 pink clovers nod their heavy heads 
 and blush hotly at the bold stare of 
 the sweet wllllama, while the stone 
 crop clusters cuddling round the 
 
 lowly or forgotten dead, wrapping 
 them in a yellow maze. 
 
 "Thou blessed one!" the angel said. 
 
 "I bring thy time of peace: 
 When I have touched thee on the eyes 
 
 Life's latest ache shall cease." 
 • • • 
 
 Peax^, indeed, Is everywhere In this 
 most pleasant place, this unhonored 
 prophet, where no footfall seems ever 
 to linger except on Sundays or to a 
 funeral. What a lot mortals sometimes 
 
 ! 1 
 
 OLD BELL DATED 1835. 
 
 lose by stretching their necks out Into 
 the distance and overlooking quite the 
 good things at the door! 
 • * • 
 
 Here on this sacred Pisgah see under 
 what fair horizon the exquisite home 
 stretch of country spreads far to north 
 and west, all with verdure clad, de- 
 lightful to the ravished eye, indeed! 
 What a setting to those clustered 
 tombstones; what a sleeping room for 
 all the days of time is here! 
 « • * 
 
 Just here, pausing by the graves of 
 a household on the outskirts of an un. 
 ruffled sea of clover, listen to the pulse 
 
 
 I 
 
 J' 
 
36 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 i? 
 
 t^^^'t^V'*^-^ 
 
 misr W^v^^^eSTtSii 
 
 THE OLD MANSE. 
 
 of nature beat, and watch the sun 
 throwing slanting shadows and fret- 
 work of headstones and railings over 
 the gilt buttercups and blue vervain 
 and clusters of white honey clover, and 
 drawing a gleam like a big diamond 
 from one polished obelisk close by on 
 which appears, below a name, once 
 known in Arcady, the simple comment, 
 "She made home pleasant." What 
 higher tribute, or more flattering to 
 female virtue was ever, could ever, be 
 paid by the most courtly husband- 
 lover. This multum In parvo In Its 
 very brevity covers every inch of 
 ground. A woman may, In the words 
 of St. Paul, give all her goods to feed 
 the poor and her body to be burnt, but 
 If she is not a gracious woman who 
 makes home pleasant she won't retain 
 favor, or have nice things cut upon 
 
 her tombstone! 
 
 • * « 
 
 How 'Scotch it is here! If only the 
 daisies were gorse and the pink clover 
 heather, it might pass muster as a 
 little God's acre somewhere In the 
 Hielands, or in that enchanted border- 
 land over which High Cheviot throws 
 the shadows of his lordly shoulders in 
 the waning western sun. 
 
 • * * 
 
 The names on most of the stones 
 sure came from Caledonia, stern and 
 
 wild. Such a record of Frasers, An- 
 dersons, Caulders, Pringles, Forbeses 
 and Robertsons, with here a Turnbull. 
 there a Campbell, Chapman, Kerr and 
 Kelly. It would scarcely be safe to 
 play The Campbells Are Coming on 
 the pipes in yon kirkyard! 
 
 * « « 
 
 Past griefs are perished and over. 
 Past Joys have vanished and died. 
 
 Past loves are fled and forgotten. 
 Past hopes have been laid aside. 
 
 * * * 
 
 One of the most Interesting burial 
 mounds stands against the eastern 
 fence and is surrounded by a railing, 
 or rather say an old picket fence, fast 
 going to decay. The enclosure has 
 VJ :>rally to be crawled into beneath a 
 tangle of entwining greenery, which 
 announced that here at least lay a 
 time-healed sorrow, or the resting 
 place of someone far from home and 
 kindred. 
 
 By holding down the screen of 
 boughs by force, an upright slab of 
 white marble, with a unicorn's head 
 crest carved In either corner, reluc- 
 tantly gives up its story so far as to 
 tell that here lies one Capt, Alexan- 
 der Roxburgh, who was born June 18, 
 1784, and died Sept. 19, 1856. Then the 
 released boughs fly back to hide the 
 name and date and all but a narrow 
 rim of the slab besides. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Kext to this sits a massive death 
 chest of quaint and venerable aspect 
 for Canada, claiming to hold the dust 
 of Euphemia Melville, wife of Capt. 
 A. Roxburgh, of the Glengarry Light 
 Infantry, and daughter of Alexander 
 Melville, Esq., of Barqular, Scotland,, 
 who died in the prime of life at St. 
 Margaret's cottage on Oct. 27, 1834. 
 "A gentle, amiable and most affec- 
 tionate wife; a kind, anxious and 
 most exemplary mother; a sincere 
 Chrlstlaii and an excellent woman 
 lies here." So she evidently made 
 home pleasant to whoever she may 
 have been in those old days. 
 
 * * * 
 
 While these two souls have been so 
 long in eternity, time has not been 
 idle with the place where they left 
 their bodies. In sooth a most pleas- 
 ant place, where the good couple rest 
 well in honorable sepulchre, while the 
 sun kisses the great slab and makes 
 it a pleasant place to sit while medi- 
 tating at leisure amongst the tombs. 
 
 I 
 
ANCASTER IN THE VICTOHIAX ERA 
 
 37 
 
 It is so high and S"^ solid that it 
 stands up lil<e a roclt among green 
 sf-as, ever encroaching from the north 
 in waves of sweet briar roses so fresh 
 and young, coquetting willingly 
 enough with the lusty honey bees, 
 but haughtily throwing back their 
 dainty pink faces from the rough 
 familiarities of a close pressing squad 
 of those sturdy Black Brunswickers, 
 the wild brambles, who will be lus- 
 cious and sweet enough themselves in 
 days to come when the rose's bloom is 
 over. 
 
 * • • 
 
 One enormous plant of burdock 
 thrusts up his enormous Panama hat 
 of a face so broad and cool, Just as if 
 he had as good a right to watch the 
 dead couple as his betters. 
 
 * • • 
 
 The birds appear to resent the brief 
 intrusion, especially a cat bird who 
 comes down quite close to see what it 
 ts all about, and dances upon the 
 boughs of a tree overhanging from a 
 neighboring garden, crying, "Hey! 
 What d'ye want? Eggs, hey?" like a 
 
 deaf old woman. 
 
 * « * 
 
 Investigation receives a check at a 
 most interesting point, when, in a 
 rather Jonely corner, there is the most 
 beautiful mausoleum imaginable, erect- 
 ed by kind nature over somebody, but 
 she will not tell us who, and she has 
 thrown all her heart into her handi- 
 work here and formed it so firmly and 
 well out of coils and coils, and grace- 
 ful waving tendrils and utterly dense 
 and impenetrable masses of the lithe- 
 some wild grape vine. "Merrily, mer- 
 rily shall I sleep naw!" No amount oi' 
 sunlight could throw any light on this 
 subject, or only barely enough, assist- 
 ed by a stick and much poking and 
 prying to suffice, after the eye became 
 accustomed to the green gloom within 
 to reveal a remaining portion of a tot- 
 tering wooden fence, once entered by 
 a small gate as the remaining hinge 
 reluctantly testified, and a slab of the 
 fashion of a by-gone day raised table- 
 wise from the ground, and covered 
 deeply with heaps of the leaf mould of 
 many an autumn from Its protecting 
 vine above — and It keeps Its secret 
 past, only saying In effect up through 
 the jasper light: 
 
 "Having but little eaten, drunk but 
 little, and deeply suffered. After weary 
 waiting at last now I am dead. Ye are 
 all coming^ surely to this." 
 
 There is still living In Ancaster a 
 venerable person in the ninety-seventh 
 year of his age who for more than 40 
 years was an eider and officebearer in 
 this church. We have much pleasure 
 in adding that the old gentleman oc- 
 casionally saws wood for two hours at 
 a time, for exercise, not being able to 
 walk far now. 
 
 « • * 
 
 Time flies amongst the tombs, and 
 from near cottage homes the smoke 
 begins to curl up against the trees as 
 the shadows lengthen to evensong, 
 across the grassy lane and the gold- 
 spattered field, where the buttercups 
 drill, and away to the marsh, where 
 green grow the rushes O, and the 
 pussy-willows grow tall and slim, 
 playing in the cool blacu loam. Three 
 little children in red frocks playing 
 beneath the thorns on a queer bank 
 below furnish the foreground with 
 local color, while distance lends de- 
 cided enchantment as one of them is 
 howling dismally, an incipient woman 
 perhaps, "crying for she doesn't know 
 what, and won't be happy till she gets 
 it." They unconsciously make a 
 beautiful picture of peace and sjm- 
 mer, in which they are assisted by a 
 black cow. In the field of the cloth of 
 gold, and a roan horse and a fat 
 brown one, all standing at ease, in at- 
 titudes to delight the soul of Auguste 
 Bonheur, with the lush pastures 
 stretching away over gray fences and 
 sprouting cornfields, under stately 
 elms and past motherly orchard trees 
 away to the fringe of woods and Jag- 
 ged pines melting into the blue dis- 
 tance of the Flamlinrn helarhts. 
 
 REV. GEO. BHKED'ci TOMH. 
 
 Already the dew-damp is In the air, 
 and soon it will be night, calm and 
 holy, over the little graveyard on the 
 upland. The sentinel stars will watch, 
 whore, bivouacked In silence, minister 
 and people He waiting for the clear 
 dawning of a greater jubilee. 
 
 ALMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 ,■■} I 
 
 >i 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE OLD RED MILL 
 
 \l\\ 
 
 1 
 
 " All along the valley stream that 
 flashest white, 
 Deepening: thy voice with the deep- 
 ening of the night." 
 
 A charming country walk near An- 
 caster, though few there be that walk 
 It, may be enjoyed by following the 
 historic stream, that, by the way, 
 really ought to have a name (sup- 
 pose we christen It the Yuba, pro tem), 
 which, after its escape from the grist 
 mill and the clutches of Mr. Jackson, 
 makes a hurried dive across the road, 
 crawls beneath the bridge on its 
 hands and knees, and turning to the 
 left, then 
 
 Chatters over stony ways 
 In little sharps and trebles- 
 only pausing a moment to lave the 
 feet of the old willows, and then off 
 in haste, cutting Its way through the 
 meadows, rushing past the hanging 
 wood, and ducking under bending 
 alders in a curved, deep, rocky chan. 
 nel, a miniature river of Niagara, 
 where one lingers with delight on 
 these autumn evenings, 'twixt the 
 gloamln' and the mirk, just after the 
 jolly miller up stream has opened the 
 gates of Yuba dam, and the flood, set 
 free from work, comes racing joyously 
 down to play at hide-and-seek all 
 night long with the moonbeams; then 
 come farther down the rocky bed, and 
 see the grand plunge presently, over 
 the Red Mill fall, and hearken how 
 the water voices go echoing on 
 through the vale below, answering 
 back deeply to the deepening of the 
 night. 
 
 • • • 
 
 So It has been probably for ages, 
 and so It will most likely continue to 
 be after we have all been ages in the 
 beyond with our toilsome days for- 
 gotten, but the Red Mill, which has 
 watched the Yuba flashing ever since 
 the century was young, will have 
 passed away entirely, It is to be fear- 
 
 ed, before many more season light 
 on it, unless, indeed. President Mills 
 could induce the women of the Went- 
 worth Pllstorical society, the old post- 
 oiTlce being out of the running, to buy 
 the aged ruin for their museum, and 
 paint its faded, red coat afresh, and 
 repair its breaches, and mend the 
 rent, 36 feet high and broad in propor- 
 tion in its poor old back, and restore 
 again the teeth which the old fellow 
 has dropped out in the shape of grind 
 stones now lying prone. It hardly 
 even answers to its name now, for the 
 snows and rains and suns amongst 
 them have blistered and frozen and 
 washed away nearly all that once 
 was red of it. 
 
 * • « 
 
 Most wine, some cheese, a few men, 
 and all buildings, mellow and improve 
 with age, up to a certain point, be- 
 yond which, the wine, past perfection, 
 becomes too crusty; the cheese, from 
 first being an elegant ruin covered 
 with creepers, collapses, its dancing 
 dvys over. Into a motionless heap of 
 acrid dust; Shakespeare has told us 
 what happens to the men; and we see 
 for ourselves how rapidly the build- 
 ings, once neglect sets in, lapse into 
 irrevocable decay. 
 
 The Red Mill stands on the left-hand 
 side of the old, and once only, road 
 from Ancaster to the village of Dun- 
 das, a road with many interesting as- 
 sociations of early days and indus- 
 trleo, but few feet now pass that way. 
 It stands In a valley, clothed within 
 fifty years from end to end with 
 stately forests and even yet the most 
 picturesque perhaps In Ontario, re- 
 calling by Its extensive panorama of 
 hill and dale, crag and water, with 
 the blue and silver binding of the dis- 
 tant lake, on a smaller scale, the 
 valley of the Tay In Scotland. It was 
 not the pioneer mill of this part of the 
 country, as some suppose. The first 
 
THE OLD RED MILL 
 
 29 
 
 one, which waa really the reason for 
 Ancaster's existence, was built 
 soon after 1790 at Ancaster, of whose 
 prosperity it was the forerunner. At 
 the close of the war of independence 
 in 1783, three strong young men arose, 
 and leaving their home in Pennsyl- 
 vania to their elder brother, who had 
 fought under Qen. Washington with 
 distinction during the war, turned 
 their steps northward, and, after 
 many days' hard Journey, heard the 
 roar of Niagara and saw the forests of 
 the King's domain rising on their 
 sight. Following the trail, from the 
 river boundary it led them on to And 
 homes in the woods near Ancaster, 
 where they henceforth lived and mar- 
 ried, and where they died, leaving 
 numerous descendants, who occupy 
 the old sites to-day. At that time 
 there was no mill of any kind nearer 
 than Niagara, so the early settlers, 
 including the Pennsylvanian brothers, 
 concluded to try a boat, which they 
 did, and kept it at the Beach, there 
 being no canal then of course, and 
 had many a toilsome Journey in 
 ox wagons with their wheat to get it 
 aboard the boat, which they then pro. 
 ceeded to row down the lake to Nia- 
 gara, returning with the flour In the 
 same way, a three days' business moat 
 likely — perhaps longer. Before 1790 
 saw the light these dwellers In the 
 wilderness had begun to tire of this 
 rapid transit milling business, and 
 suddenly concluded to form a com- 
 pany among themselves, call a bee, 
 dam the Yuba, and erect a mill of their 
 own— all which was done with 
 promptitude, and soon the Union mill 
 was an accomplished fact, the only 
 hitch being to And a man capable of 
 acting as miller at the start. How- 
 ever, an old gentleman named Horn- 
 ing, grandfather or great grandfather 
 of ex-M.P. Joseph Rymal, rose to the 
 occasion and the breach was filled. 
 A very few years after this the Red 
 Mill arose out of the forest In the 
 valley, its builder and maker being 
 the original Hatt, whose bones are 
 with us to this day and lie In an aged 
 burying ground on a farm close to the 
 village. The present owner of the mill 
 well remembers hearing the old people 
 tell in his young days how they came 
 from far, in ox wagons, to have their 
 milling done here, bringing hams and 
 butter and feathers with them for 
 payment. 
 
 * * • 
 
 Perhaps the fact of there being a 
 
 contemporary distillery, mighty con- 
 venient, close by on the 'Yuba, may 
 have lent a zest and given local color 
 to those early and laborious milling 
 transactions. The oldest Inhabitant's 
 grandfather, so he tells me, used to 
 say it was good booze they made in 
 those times, and the price, 25 cents a 
 gallon, is enough to make some peo- 
 ple swear they have lived too late. 
 
 • • • 
 
 Tradition also says that when the 
 men of old were making the road 
 above the Red Mill, known as the 
 Devil's elbow, they kept a boy in con- 
 stant employment trotting to and fro 
 between them and the distillery, with 
 a gallon pail in each hand. It is pre- 
 sumed that there was water, occa- 
 sionally. In the left-hand pall, but the 
 facts of the case are very much ob- 
 scured by circumstances, and the 
 mists which Father Time is so fond 
 of breathing forth in the wake of old 
 days. The Women's Temperance Set- 
 us-all-to-rights union might contend 
 that these partially unearthed nug- 
 gets of folklore throw a side light 
 upon the undeniable fact of the elbow 
 having remained in the possession of 
 the devil ever since as a marvel of 
 stony and unconquerable badness. 
 Strange sounds have been heard 
 round that rocky curve at night, and 
 'tis whispered that twice a year, at 
 the full of the moon, those road mak- 
 ers of the good old times are forced, 
 by one they must not disobey, to re- 
 turn, and put in ghostly statute lab- 
 or, replacing all the stones and uncov- 
 ering all the ruts, supplied by a fiery 
 eyed spook boy with phantom whiskey 
 from a phantom pall. This is a suffi- 
 cient explanation of the fact why the 
 statute labor one there by earthly 
 hands never makes the road any bet- 
 ter. 
 
 • * * 
 
 Within the old building nothing but 
 crumbling decay meets the eye, 
 though the soundness of the massive 
 beams seem rather to accentuate the 
 ruin of all else. The enormous rent in 
 the west wall marks where the 36-foot 
 water wheel made things hum, within 
 the last eighty years, and did good 
 business, having three run of stones 
 working simultaneously with a capa- 
 city of turning out twenty barrels of 
 flour, and from 30 to 35 barrels of pot 
 barley per diem, bealdes chopping. 
 The water power supplied by the Yuba 
 was rated by an experienced mlll- 
 
 f? 
 
 
I? II 
 
 40 
 
 WENTWOKTII LANDMARKS 
 
 wrlght at 25 horse-power, and was 
 carried Into the mill across the road 
 by a long flume, down which, alas! 
 through someone's blunder, in not at- 
 tending to the turning off of the power, 
 the cruel frost came creeping one 
 bitter night, and had such a battle 
 
 or more correctly speaking, the second 
 story of the mill, and into the presence 
 of a motley heap of "has beens," the 
 most interesting of which are the 
 ancient and original flour buckets, and 
 the two remaining grind stones, lying 
 side by side in rest, after their busy 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jii^!n^fc'^ y 
 
 
 KUINS OF A WOOLICN MILL NEAK ANCASTER. 
 
 royal with the old king of the mill 
 that by morning he was shattered and 
 useless; hence the rent in the wall, 
 through which his body was removed, 
 leaving a fearsome, yawning chasm 
 behind him in the earth, heaped round 
 by a chaos of fallen stones, not hewn 
 and trim, but round and rough Just as 
 they came from mother earth's brown 
 breast. Using both hands and feet to 
 clamber up the ladder-like stairway, 
 we pass into the second circle of chaos. 
 
 days. By these we make a long pause, 
 for are they not the very same ones 
 that were put in when the mill was 
 built, and helped to do the first day's 
 work. And here they are still, with 
 the sunlight glinting at them round the 
 broken wall, and the rains pattering 
 down on their seamy granite faces 
 through the big holes in the roof. 
 Still here, good for another century of 
 toil, but where are the vanished gen- 
 erations they have helped to feed? 
 
 M ■>■ 
 
THE OLD KED MILL 
 
 4' 
 
 the second 
 le presence 
 jeens," the 
 are the 
 uckets, and 
 ones, lying 
 their busy 
 
 \'M 
 
 K 
 
 jng pause, 
 same ones 
 mill was 
 flrsi. day's 
 still, with 
 round the 
 pattering 
 ite faces 
 the roof, 
 lentury of 
 shed gen- 
 feed? 
 
 Over the road from the mill decays 
 another veteran (of the distillery, only 
 a bit of foundation remains), the 
 house that Hatt built for the miller 
 and his family, which is now used as 
 a stable, and has slight savor of form- 
 er interest, with the exception of 
 an old-time stone — rough stone, too — 
 chimney, reaching to the ground and 
 visible from the outside. It must 
 have been a pleasant home In old 
 flays, when the hills lifted their green 
 crowns all round about, and though 
 man may have been distant, Nature, 
 who is God, was near, even at the 
 door. Beautiful exceedingly to dwell 
 there, in daily companionship with 
 the grey rocks, to watch the light 
 (•ome creeping up the valley in those 
 young summer dawns, or to see the 
 sunsets dying on the hills, and to hear 
 the Yuba, in Its rocky cradle, go sing- 
 ing down the night; but, perhaps like 
 Galilee of an older day, "they cared 
 for none of these things;" perhaps the 
 Devil's elbow was too near, and it was 
 eerie on winter nights, when the trees 
 crackled queerly, and weird noises 
 echoed from the rocky glens and lone- 
 ly hills. 
 
 • • * 
 
 The mill has seen many changes in 
 its long days, and known many dif- 
 ferent owners. For some 30 years be- 
 fore it passed into the present proprie- 
 tor's hands, it belonged to one Isaac 
 Kelly, and before that again to a 
 Gillespie, and earlier still, to a man 
 named Cox, of whom we can relate 
 that all was not grist that came to 
 his mill, because he ground pepper 
 and spice, and coffee, too. Between 
 1820 and 1827 it appears to have been 
 in the hands of the ubiquitous Mat- 
 thew Crooks, whose fingers seemed to 
 be in all those early pies, and an old 
 friend of mine, a gentleman in a 
 faded brown suit, and with an ancient 
 weightiness hanging to his every 
 word, who has Just come out of his 
 home, where he maintains a dignified 
 I)rivacy and seldom goes abroad, to 
 l)a.ss this evening at my fireside by 
 special invitation, has just been 
 narrating in his punctilious, prosy, 
 polite old way, with regard to the Red 
 Mill, how that he remembers. In the 
 year 1827, when he was just beginning 
 
 to circulate round amongst the nelfch- 
 bors, hearing a long story of how, "by 
 virtue of two writs of fieri facias is- 
 sued out of his majesty's court of 
 King's bench, etc., against the lands 
 and tenements of Matthew Crooks, by 
 one William Crooks," and so on — (it 
 is a little hard to keep up with these 
 old gentlemen when they mount and 
 ride off into the old days again) — "and 
 so farther are taken in execution as 
 belonging to said Matthew Crooks," 
 says the old gentleman, "various lands 
 and buildings. Including," mark you, 
 "including lastly," says the old gen- 
 tleman, shaking a shriveled finger in 
 my face — he had some more, but he 
 didn't shake them— "lastly the red 
 grist mill with two run of stones in 
 complete repair and In good order for 
 manufacturing flour; an extensive 
 distillery, with a range of pens and 
 stables for fatting hogs and cattle; 
 carding machines, two fulling mills, 
 clothier shops, one store house, three 
 dwelling houses for miller, clothier 
 and distiller, and such quantity of 
 land as will be necessary to secure 
 all water privileges, mills, etc., afore- 
 said." All this property, the old gen- 
 tleman further informed me, was to 
 have been sold at the court house in 
 the town of Hamilton, on Saturday, 
 the 14th day of July (1827), at 12 noon, 
 to the highest bidder," but added that 
 it was postponed "until Saturday, the 
 17th day of November, by order of 
 William M. Jarvis, sheriff of the Gore 
 district." This is what my old friend 
 has just told me about the matter, 
 and his authority there is no disput- 
 ing, because he happens to have a 
 copy of 
 
 THE GORE GAZETTE 
 
 and 
 
 Ancaster, Hamilton, Dundas and 
 Flamborough Advertiser, 
 
 Published by George 
 Ancaster. 
 
 Gurnett, at 
 
 On Saturday; they did everything 
 worth doing "on Saturday" in those 
 days, and it was published on Satur- 
 day. Oct. 20. 1827. 
 
 ALiMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 ■4 
 
 % 
 
 il 
 
■ p- .■ 
 
 ANNULS OF BARTON 
 
 The Tcrrybcrry Inn. ^ A Forgotten House of Peace. ^ 
 Descriptions of Places of Interest in the Outskirts of the 
 City. ^ The Old Roman Catholic Cemetery. ^ The 
 Brewery That Was. ^ The Tragedy of Burlington 
 Heights. ^ Old Cholera Burial Grounds. 
 
 i !' 
 
 I 'i' 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 THE TERRYBERRY INN 
 
 eace. ^ 
 ts of the 
 ^ The 
 irlington 
 
 I, too. with my soul and body. 
 We, a curious trio, pickiner. 
 Wandering on our way, 
 Throuirh these doors amid the shadows. 
 With the apparitions pressing, 
 Pioneers! O, Pioneers! 
 
 — ^Whitman. 
 
 • • • 
 
 Un-ordinary sensations are not al- 
 ways pleasant. For instance, we would 
 mildly protest at a chubby snail drop- 
 ping down our backs and object to 
 snakes in our boots as tending to pro- 
 duce sensations, un-ordinary, but not 
 pleasant. Yet admit, for the sake of 
 argument, that most of us are suffi- 
 ciently akin to the supernatural as to 
 enjoy having our flesh made to creep, 
 much as we object to things creeping 
 on our fle^! 
 
 Well, one of these wild November 
 evenings, desiring to feel creepy, I 
 took my soul and body, and went to 
 meditate an hour in the dusk amongst 
 walls once bright with the fires of 
 hospitality, but now, by Time's hard 
 fists, battered into clinks through 
 which the night wind whistled and 
 the moonlight poured in floods. But 
 we had to wait awhile for that, for 
 we got there first in a glory of sun- 
 set, which made the sky flame to the 
 zenith, and all the brimming dykes 
 along the roads and the ditches In 
 the fields blush rosy red. 
 
 In at the broken gateway, over the 
 oblong patch of green, fringed with 
 ragged bushes, and up on to the an- 
 cient porch where many an early set- 
 tler has lingered in the twilights long 
 ago, passing through the battered 
 doorways "-:d avoiding a fearsome 
 black hole in the floor, we stand amid 
 the shadows under the roof tree, once 
 linown far and wide to the pioneers 
 of Canada West as Terryberry's tav- 
 ern. 
 
 • • « 
 
 Situated on the main road from Ni- 
 agara to Ancaster, this commodious 
 house must have been hailed with de- 
 light by those early travelers through 
 
 the forest, and we fancy there must 
 have been good cheer there then, and 
 that man and beast alike found com- 
 fort In that inn, now a palsied, tot- 
 tering old relic with both feet in the 
 grave of forgotten things, but once 
 so young and trim and snug and 
 warm! Once, these worm-eaten rafters 
 rang with laughter, and up that aged 
 
 ^rtt»,-.' ^^^> "^^ ''^-' 
 THE RUINED POUCH. 
 
 stairway what merry feet may not 
 have twinkled! Those rows of vacant 
 vindows through which the dusk will 
 ooon steal creeplly, to fill the empty 
 nooks and crannies with strange 
 shapes, once smiled back like rows of 
 diamonds to the rising sun! But be- 
 fore going farther in, let us glance at 
 the old stable, or as much of it as re- 
 mains, across the yard on the west 
 side of the house. Not very much, or 
 very large now, but built in the maa- 
 
 ?lin 
 
 ■Hi 
 
 .1' 
 
44 
 
 WEN'rVVORTIl LAN DM AUKS 
 
 THE OLD TERRYBERKY INN. 
 
 ll 
 
 sive fashion of a day when wood was 
 no object. A more interesting find 
 was an ancient well, a real old timer, 
 discovered by lifting a heap of mossy 
 boards lying in a corner of the yard 
 near the house, then kneeling, peer- 
 ing down Into the watery past which 
 lay sullcing far below, covered with a 
 stagnant, dlphtheria-typhoid-suggegt- 
 ing scum. The round stones whidh 
 formed the sides were loosely put to- 
 gether, and green and dank with age 
 and disuse. In former times we im- 
 agine a young oaken bucket hung by 
 that well, and there, like enough, at 
 eventides, some rural Jacob drew 
 water for and looked love into the eyes 
 of his Rachel, thus combining business 
 with pleasure. We did not, frankly 
 speaking, like the look of this particu- 
 lar "palmy well," and shut the 
 boards down again with a reverential 
 bang, and went back to the house. 
 
 The porch is a perfect curiosity in 
 itself, being Grecian in design and 
 lathed and plastered beneath the peat- 
 red dome and flat side pieces. Quite 
 a work of art in its day, and pretty 
 and quaint enough to copy now. On 
 it, so the story goes, an early settler 
 stood one day, and shot an Indian 
 who was skulking through the forest 
 on what are now the asylum fields. 
 The reason why has become detached 
 
 from the legend, but presumably he 
 had one, beyond the fact that there 
 were plenty more Indians where that 
 one came from, redmen and firewood 
 both abounding In thos» early days. 
 
 The old house even now, in more 
 than half ruins, has an impalpable 
 charm of its own, and throws a glamor 
 over one, especially when viewed at 
 the dying of the day, which suits it 
 somehow better than the garish sun- 
 light. They built well and comfortably 
 to live in then, and the Terryberry 
 tavern contrasts favorably in plan 
 and execution with some of the mod- 
 ern horrors of architectural triumph 
 to be seen among us — those shells, 
 gaudy with stained glass, and breath- 
 less with coal furnaces. 
 
 Here, in the old house, the sun must 
 have been a welcome guest, admitted 
 at all the tall, high windows, and the 
 splendid wood fires that roared up 
 the chimneys in all the rooms but one 
 must have kept life fresh and healthy. 
 The hall is broad and long, running 
 back through the entire length Of the 
 house, and the stair is broad and low- 
 stepped, and apparently once boasted 
 handsome bannisters up the side and 
 all along the upper hall; but, like the 
 frames at the wlndaws, they are gone, 
 and only the top railing and curious 
 old posts remain to show what was. 
 
 I 
 
^, 
 
 ;vi-, 
 
 imably he 
 that there 
 vhere that 
 ^ firewood 
 y days. 
 
 in more 
 mpalpable 
 s a glamor 
 v'iewed at 
 h suits it 
 Irish sun- 
 mfortably 
 'erryberry 
 in plan 
 
 the mod- 
 triumph 
 shells, 
 
 d breath- 
 
 sun must 
 
 admitted 
 and the 
 
 ared up 
 but one 
 healthy, 
 running 
 
 :h Of the 
 
 and low- 
 boasted 
 
 side and 
 like the 
 
 Lre gone, 
 curious 
 
 hat was. 
 
 
 
 
 
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 a 
 
 ■j: 
 
 It- 
 O 
 
 X 
 
 y. 
 
 < 
 
 •A 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 
 
 J I !l 
 
 
 il 
 
 1:5? 
 
 %\ 
 
 ft I 
 
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 1 
 
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 h' 
 
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 y 
 
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 j 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 ^i 
 
 
 ii ' 
 
ivii 
 
 THE TEKUYnEUKY INN 
 
 ^5 
 
 On the left-hand side of the entrance 
 Is the most old-fashioned room in 
 Canaaa. Low, and wainscoted In dark 
 wood, except where a large break In 
 the wall lets In old Boreas "fra" a' the 
 alrt9 the wind can blaw," and framed 
 the mild face of a large white cow 
 who looked so ghostly In the gloamln', 
 and seemed to take such an Interest 
 in our proceedings that we set her 
 down as the reincarnation of the or- 
 iginal Terryberry. Above the old flre- 
 
 flreplaoe. In the thickness of which 
 we discovered two more cupboards, 
 one with delightful three-cornered 
 shelves (woe to the nation when her 
 people build cupboard houses, look 
 out for decadence!), we stood In a 
 large room which had suffered the 
 loss of its fireplace, as the chimney, 
 in some winter gale, had found It cold 
 upon the roof, and so simply slldden 
 down Into the fireplace below, which 
 it choked up, and left a ghastly heap 
 
 AN OLD-FASHIONED FIUKPLACE. 
 
 place were a couple of those quaint 
 chimney cupboards, In which the early 
 builders seem to have delighted, and 
 where they kept their wills and their 
 
 'baccy. 
 
 * * * 
 
 On the left hand side a big cupboard 
 runs from the celling to the floor, and 
 Is Imagined to have been the whisky 
 cupboard, being the biggest we saw. 
 and that this was the bar-room; so 
 we played that it was that way any- 
 how, and the white cow never said 
 one word to contradict us. 
 
 A narrow door leading straight out 
 on to the green further confirmed us 
 In this belief. Passing through a 
 doorless doorway on the iln;ht of tYe 
 
 of rubbish 'over besides; and also was 
 the means of preventing us from 
 opening the door of cupboard r.'j.i' er 
 six, a big one on the right su!' , "2- 
 tween the fireplace and the east win- 
 dow. Possibly It was the one where 
 they kept the family skeleton, and has 
 never been opened yet. A window, 
 also, opposite the fireplace, looked out 
 to the south, across the brown fields 
 to lacey silhouettes of trees against 
 the paling sky. 
 
 Over the hall from the bar-room 
 were two more good-sized, well-light- 
 ed rooms, containing curious corner 
 fireplaces (and cupboards, it goes 
 without saying). Through them we 
 passed into the back of the hall, under 
 
 i 
 
 
46 
 
 WKNTWOUTH LANDMAUKS 
 
 'm 
 
 il 
 
 'H:i :' 
 
 the broad staircase, to find ourselvea 
 coTifronted by a yawrnlng black de- 
 cennus avemuB, down which we had 
 to go, of course, though It was un- 
 pleasantly dusky, and we only had 
 three matches, and one of them was 
 a toothpick — besides not knowing 
 what might befall us below In the 
 way of holes and broken steps and 
 spooks. We need not have feared 
 those cellar stairs, for, truly, "they 
 dreamed not of a perishable home who 
 thus could build," for each separate 
 step was a huge solid beam of wood, 
 with no give to it. So in time we got 
 landed below In the damp, finding a 
 great deal of darkness In our hands 
 when we got down, but fully rewarded 
 In various ways, such as seeing a place 
 under the foot of a chimney, where 
 probably the first potatoes who set- 
 tled In Barton found a temporary rest- 
 ing place. 
 
 * * * 
 
 It was easier to ascend the bannis- 
 terleas stairway to the second story, 
 where the first thing noticeable was 
 the charming broad landing in front 
 of a big window, and the thought 
 flashed of what a cosy corner it may 
 once have been, and might again be, 
 "just built for two," though capable 
 of containing half a dozen. 
 
 Here an the right hand are three 
 rooms, more cupboards, and a myster- 
 i(His look down at the back of one 
 fireplace, through a hole made doubt- 
 less by that chilly chimney in Its de- 
 scent to the room below. A large at- 
 tii' seemed to extend the whole size of 
 the house, and was well lighted by 
 several* windows and the huge gaps 
 which the departed chimneys had 
 omitted to take with them In their 
 downward flight. Here research was 
 baflfled and nipped in the second story, 
 so to speak, as we had not brought 
 our ladder, and Father Time, or some- 
 body, had made off with the stairs, 
 and we had to content ourselves with 
 bringing away a mental photograph 
 of the hole where they had been. 
 Turning to the left at the head of the 
 stairs, we passed in at a shaky grey 
 door — and, by-the-bye, such curiosities 
 in the way of latches and hasps were 
 never seen — and exclaimed: "What a 
 charming drawing room this would 
 make!"— for behold a large, long room, 
 still pinky with the last flush of sun- 
 set, towards «rhlch Its four tall win- 
 dows gBze. Out Into the center of 
 the room a huge old fireplace stuck 
 Us feet, and round three sides ran the 
 rickety remains of a low fixed fender. 
 
 where the pretty, long-ago glrl.n. not 
 hello girls, nor yet bloomer bicycle 
 females, sat at the vanished balls, 
 with the firelight dancing on their 
 glossy curls, waiting for the gay mili- 
 tia man to pick them out. Those old 
 walls have heard the fiddles scraping, 
 to be sure, and seen many capers acted 
 by those long dead and gone. We ma.v 
 well fancy how the old place mu' 
 have buzzed with excitement durlr 
 the war of 1812, and gone wild with 
 triumph over the battle of Stony 
 Creek. It was here before the war 
 broke out that the militia met for 
 drill, and livened up the green imfote 
 the door with their red coats, and 
 clanked their swords up the steps, 
 under the Grecian porch, on their way 
 to the bar. And later on those walls 
 no doubt rang with news of a victory 
 greater than Stony Creek, for thoy were 
 In their hey-day when the thunders of 
 Waterloo shook the world. Hither 
 also came sprinklings of the regulars, 
 and here most probably the American 
 prisoners when on their way from 
 Stony Creek to the jail in Ancaster 
 called n halt. Some of the wounded 
 soldiers after the battle must certain 
 ly have been brought here also, fc 
 it is common tradition, or rather >i 
 matter of history that the original 
 old wooden Barton church was at that 
 time converted into a hospital and 
 that some of the soldiers died there 
 of their wounds and were burled in 
 the then new churchyard. To the 
 tavern, 'tis said, one day in war times 
 came Governor Simcoe on his way to 
 or from Ancaster, in state, attended 
 by his staff, and it was on this occa- 
 sion, 'tis further recorded by the old- 
 est inhabitant's great maiden grand- 
 aunt, that one of the officers, a gay 
 young blade, afterwards high In the 
 service, occasioned some scandal by 
 clanking and jingling down the solid 
 steps in the wake of the pretty bar- 
 maid, going a message to a cask which 
 stood by the chimney foot, hard by 
 the potatoes, and behind which he 
 Doldly kissed her, not once nor twic«>. 
 which is Interesting history, proving 
 that boys were boys in 1814, all the 
 same as in '96. What apparitions 
 haunt the old house, to be sure! The 
 gallant young officer has mustered 
 with the spirit army long, long ago, 
 and as for the pretty maid, 
 
 " The mossy marbles rest 
 On the lips which he then pressed, 
 In the cellar." 
 — O. W. Holmes, sllghitly altered to suit 
 the circumstances. 
 
 i.^i 
 
TIIK TEKIIYHKHIIY INN 
 
 47 
 
 ^\ 
 
 INTEUIOK OF THR BALLUOOM. 
 
 These old tales are apt to be a lit- 
 tle mixed, but we are safe to accept 
 tiiis one, and conclude that here are 
 very few old cellars that haven't seen 
 Some kissing in their day; but they 
 never, never tell. It would give a 
 zest to a kiss, in the eyes of most 
 men, If they had to risk their necks 
 and bump their heads down a dark 
 stair to get one! Ah! those must have 
 been the good old times, when whisky 
 was cheap and red coats plenty, and 
 'twas: 
 
 Then hey! for boot and spur, lad, 
 And through the woods away; 
 
 Young blood must have its course, lad, 
 And every dog nis day. 
 
 But here comes the big November 
 moon poking her yellow face in at the 
 ompty sockets of the windows, and 
 l)ainting strange splatters of white- 
 ness on the dusky walls. If she could 
 only open her silver lips and tell all 
 she knows of the tide of life which 
 ebbed and flowed for so many years 
 round these old walls, since the far- 
 off nights when she and the wolves 
 watched them rising out of the forest 
 beside the Indian trail, as the wolves 
 called the road for many years after' 
 They had a great respect for the moon 
 and held concerts in her honor, and 
 thought her a big and beautiful bright 
 
 thing, but wise heads nowadays sav 
 she is nothing but a cinder on the 
 high road to extinction. However that 
 may be, she has not lost her strange 
 power of animating the inanimate, 
 evolving gruesome things from the 
 corners of these empty rooms, throw- 
 ing a beam over there near the ball 
 room door that has a queer gleam, 
 like a white dress; and a glance up- 
 wards, towards the deserted attic, has 
 the effect of making one's ears rise 
 up and try to flee, pushing one's scalp 
 in front of them. So, prithee, let's 
 begone, for, truly: 
 
 " All houses, wherein men 
 Have lived and died 
 Are haunted houses" — 
 
 Especially by moonlight. 
 
 • • * 
 
 O Strong hands, so long dust! O 
 stout hearts, so many yeare at home 
 with God! we would fain wave the 
 mists of time aside and get a clearer 
 view of your far-off past! But we can 
 only guess you lived and loved, suf- 
 fered, hoped and tolled, as men do 
 still. 
 
 You peaceful pioneers! we can see 
 you gathered round the glowing logs 
 in those genial fireplaces at Terryber- 
 ry's, spinning your hunting yarns and 
 war stories at your ease, undisturbed 
 by the marital telephone darling at 
 
 1| 
 
48 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 your ears. A manly, stalwai^t race, 
 you— unspoilt by riches, unwlthered 
 by self-feeder stoves and flat pies. 
 Your faces, mayhap, were scorching at 
 that glorious blaze, while your backs 
 were cold; but, O pioneers! they were 
 straight, not yet hunched up like a 
 racoon on the trot, as the coming race 
 will be from the "scorching" of to- 
 day! 
 
 • • • 
 
 Perhaps you missed much by living 
 too soon, but we hope that such a 
 share of health and freedom was yours 
 in those fresh, strong young days, so 
 full of action, as almost to make up 
 for having ante-dated the X-rays, the 
 electric button, end the Liocal Council 
 of Women. Lucky pioneers! 
 
 All honor to the memory of these 
 early settlers of our land, the youth- 
 ful, sinewy race, who bore not only 
 the brunt of danger and hardships of 
 life, past our comprehension, but 
 fought and bled and died for their 
 country In her hour of need! May 
 their dreamless sleep be sweet to them 
 in their scattered and forgotten 
 graves, until 
 
 Still with sound of trumpet 
 Far. far off the daybre<ak call — 
 Hark! How loud and clear I hear it 
 
 wind. 
 Swift! to the head of the army! 
 Swift! spring to your places, 
 Pioneers! O, Pioneers! 
 
 — Whitman. 
 
 —ALMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
 
 j 
 
 l;l[! 
 
 i 
 
 1 ■!» 
 
 1 
 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 A FORGOTTEN HOUSE OF PEACE 
 
 ^1 , '-A 
 
 — ^-x"^^ ..^ts?^ 
 
 ^"^^ 
 
 '^ 
 
 
 
 
 Rest, rest, a perfect rest, 
 Shed over brow and breast: 
 Rest, rest at the heart's core 
 
 Till time shall cease; 
 Sleep that no pain shall wake: 
 Niffht that no morn shall break 
 Till joy shall overtake 
 
 Their perfect peace. 
 
 — Christina Rosettl. 
 
 If there's a dear spot in Erin, as the 
 song says, there is also a pathetic lit- 
 tle spot in Barton of which few have 
 ever heard, and fewer still would care 
 anyth'iig about. It is so old now, so 
 lonely, so unthouf'ht of, and uncared 
 for, so off the beaten track, and the 
 Inhabitants have dwelt therein silently 
 throus^h such long years of waiting 
 that it is little wonder they hold no 
 plac€ or part In the thoughts of the 
 younger generations, who, without 
 them, had never been. 
 
 There is such a thing as going 
 through the world with one eye in a 
 sling, so to speak, and the othe half 
 shut, and in this way missing i big 
 share of the fun, and the battle, and 
 the beauty, and the pathos, and the 
 common objects of the country, as we 
 go. Hundreds of people in a year pass 
 over the mountain road through Bar- 
 ton, quite unaware of the fact that it 
 is leading them in the early footsteps 
 of Indians, Jesuits, pioneer settlers, 
 and thr soldiers of King George, 
 through one of the most Interesting 
 and historic parts of Canada. 
 
 The cruel Iroquois nation from the 
 
 States, who depopulated Canada in old 
 Indian days, when Fort Orange, on the 
 present site of Albany-on-the-Hudson, 
 was the one and only trading post be- 
 tween Montreal and New Amsterdam 
 (New York), no doubt pursued their 
 victories along this trail, following it 
 through where Ancaster came in later 
 times, to where it turns up to Fid'llers' 
 Green, and so passes onward to the 
 Grand river. 
 
 * * • 
 
 The noble Jesuits passed to and fro 
 by it, with their lives in their hands, 
 carrying their spiritual warfare, under 
 a commission generally sealed, sooner 
 or later, with their blood, into the 
 midst of the filthy aborigines. But, 
 as Kipling says, "that is another 
 story," and the time we want to speak 
 of was of later date, being in the days 
 already mentioned elsewhere, when the 
 first settlers had carved themselves out 
 new homes in the forest near where 
 Barton (old) church now stands. 
 
 The three strong men from Pennsyl- 
 vania, apoken of elsewhere, who left 
 Washington at the height of his glory, 
 and journeyed northward through the 
 wilds, because they preferred to live 
 under British institutions, were newly 
 come here and formed the nucleus of a 
 vigorous settlement by-and-bye. The 
 crop that never fails under any possi- 
 ble circumstances began to spring up 
 around the parent tree, so one of the 
 most apparent needs of the settlement 
 became a schoolhouse, and this we can 
 picture being supplied out of the vir- 
 gin forest in about 24 hours, old time, 
 by a bee. 
 
 Christians, apparently, did not hate 
 one another so veil in those primitive 
 days as they dc now, and, probably. 
 Episcopalians could speak of a Scotch 
 church without calling it "a Presby- 
 terian place of worship," with a super- 
 cilious sniff, as a lanky, low-brov ed 
 curate did lately in our hearing; so 
 this new school house was used for the 
 minds of the children, on week days, 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 I'l 
 
5" 
 
 WKNTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 ::■ 
 
 and the benefit of everybody's soul on 
 Sundays. This was away alon^r about 
 the year of grace 1790. In later days 
 they found leisure and ambition to 
 build them a real church, but not for 
 a good many years. Then another 
 bee hummed, and the first Barton 
 church arose, standing back In what 
 l9 now the burlal-grround, considerably 
 behind the present deserted building, 
 which replaced It, we believe, about 
 ■4a or '50. 
 
 bushes on the knoll which marks the 
 desolate spot. A high fence and about 
 three acres of Barton clay. In a state 
 of liquidation, had to be crawled over 
 and waded through In the first place, 
 but mud Is a mere circumstance when 
 Interest is aroused and antiquity the 
 goal. A more eerie spot seen on that 
 dusky afternoon could not well be Im- 
 agined. All the tints were brown and 
 sere, and all the tones were sad and in 
 a minor key. The wind moaned through 
 
 IN THE DESERTED GHAVEYAUD. 
 
 This is a digression, but long before 
 a church was thought of, or at least 
 built, "that dark mother, always glid- 
 ing near with soft feet," had found 
 out this settlement in the woods, and 
 the people had remembered how to die, 
 and thus there comes to be with us to 
 this day that little quaint God's acre 
 on the grassy hillock, which so many 
 pass, but few suspect contains Im- 
 mortal seed. 
 
 • • • 
 
 A great soft mass of blue-blaok rain 
 cloud was spreading itself all over the 
 west, and making the dark November 
 day darker, when we reached the cross- 
 roads Just beyond the church, and saw 
 before us In the distance the clump of 
 
 the thicket, and the field round about 
 looked as if it had been weeping for 
 its own ugliness, for the tears stood all 
 over its wet brown face in puddles 
 and runnels, while the distance be- 
 came blurred by splashes of rain, 
 blowing along slowly from the west. 
 
 Being naturally honest, however 
 rich, we paused to remove as much as 
 possible of the good man's farm from 
 our boots, with the aid of a stick, and 
 then pushed aside the branches and 
 stood, feeling rather awe-struck, within 
 this ancient city of the dead. 
 
 It Is now the one wooded part.where It 
 evidently once was the only cleared 
 space, in a circle of woods. The trees 
 and bushes have grown up so thickly 
 
 ■Biafi! 
 
A FORGOTTEN HOUSE OF PEACE 
 
 51 
 
 that only by getting down on hands 
 and knees can the I'ew remaining 
 headstones be deciphered. The bushes 
 scratched and clawed mysteriously, as 
 if they resented any intrusive prying 
 into the treasure they have guarded 
 night and day so well. The ground 
 \3 here all humps and hollows, and 
 suggests the idea that one Is treading 
 on sunken graves, which is no doubt 
 the case, as here and there crops up 
 a tottering headstone, half buried in 
 the mould. In the middle of the knoll 
 are three graves, comparatively young 
 and fresh, only 75 years having come 
 and gone since the last of them was 
 carried along the path through the 
 wood, and put here for a good long 
 rest. The lettering on a few. merely 
 initials, Is evidently amateur work.cut 
 laboriously by some loving hand, long 
 before marble works arose in the land. 
 It is probable that many a one who 
 lies here never had a tombstone at all, 
 perhaps only a rough bit of granite or 
 a wooden headboard. 
 
 Tombstones, like flax shirts, were of 
 home manufacture in those times. 
 Three, there to be seen, one of which 
 has fallen, certainly answer to that 
 dcLcription, being plain slabs of Cana- 
 dian granite, roughly hewn into a 
 shape at the top, and all bearing, for 
 inscription, two letters only. No dates, 
 no hopes for the future, or regrets for 
 the lest, merely on the fallen one a 
 plainly cut M. R., and on the two re- 
 maining upright,though tottering.S.R., 
 and again M. R. 
 
 * • • 
 
 How we should like to raise a corner 
 of that curtain of oblivion and see the 
 simple ceremony with which the one 
 tired first was put away to sleep sound 
 in that new bed, by the hand of the 
 "strong dellveress," as the master poet 
 of the days to be, calls death — an old 
 man, by chance, it was, soon defeated 
 in his v/restle with those strong young 
 days, and pleased and willing to hear 
 his curfew ring; or may be there was 
 a heart-break there, healed long since; 
 and perhaps there was put in the 
 ground that day a wee, wee box, a tiny 
 colflln, so rough without, so tenderly 
 .soft within, torn from the arms of 
 some Rachel weeping, with the secret, 
 endless, ever-springing tears, such as 
 the mothers of dead babies only know. 
 Can't we see her still, away back 
 through all the years, by the light of 
 her own feeble home-made candle, as 
 she stands in the doorway of her log 
 home, looking out into the night, down 
 
 
 A TUBE GROWING OUT OF A GKAVE. 
 
 through which the rain falls drearily, 
 and each drop as it patters on the 
 leaves, smites the wounded heart, and 
 the sorrow gushes forth afresh of her 
 little "golden son" sleeping alone there, 
 out in the dismal forest, while her 
 breast is so soft, and her arms so 
 empty! Poor Rachel! She has long 
 been comforted! 
 
 • * * 
 
 The ancient family of Hess appear to 
 he well represented in the silent house 
 of assembly. Many can still remember 
 their farm house as being one of the 
 old land marks, trodden down by the 
 march of "improvement" within com- 
 paratively recent years. It stood, still 
 flanked by some gnarled stragglers of 
 its old orchard, on King street west, 
 between Queen and Caroline streets, 
 where a trim new row now makes a 
 bad apology for its departed quaint- 
 ness. 
 
 Here, in this old burial place, lies 
 the dust of the flrst arrival of the 
 handsome, well-known Rousseau 
 family, one of the makers of Ancaster. 
 As his name tells, he was a French- 
 man, and emigrating from France 
 after the revolution of 1793, finally 
 
 ■ 51 ii' 
 
•■*, 
 
 f 
 
 52 
 
 WENTWORTII LANDMARKS 
 
 drifted to Ancaster, where his descend- 
 ants to the fifth generation still reside. 
 He died previous to the war of 1812, 
 and the fact of his body being taken 
 from Ancaster all the way to the burial 
 place in Barton, proves conclusively 
 that it was the first, and for many 
 years the only, house of peace in these 
 parts. The adjacent graves of the 
 Hess's recall an interesting circum- 
 stance concerning these two families. 
 It appears that "Monsieur" Rousseau. 
 
 A PREHISTORIC TOMBSTONE. 
 
 at the time of his death, owned a very 
 considerable amount of real estate in. 
 or rather, near, the village of Hamil- 
 ton, which in those days was not 
 thought much more valuable than real 
 estate in Ancaster would be to-day. In 
 his will he, very unfortunately, left 
 his widow full control of his property. 
 She, as might have been expected, 
 made a calamitous hash of the things 
 committed to her charge, regardless of 
 the interests of her husband's heirs, 
 against whose wishes she caused to be 
 sold 200 acres of the estate, a strip nf 
 land extending from Charles street to 
 where the present Hess street stands, 
 and on the north to the bay, to one 
 Jacob Hess, who appeared to be as 
 «vride-awake to his own interests, as 
 the previous Mr. Jacob, with whose 
 business transactions we vere all early 
 made familiar. The s) > goes that 
 long after the mismanaging widow had 
 been giathered to her departed hus- 
 band, and stowed safely away at his 
 side on the grassy hillock, the heirs of 
 a later day attempted to prove a flaw, 
 and recover their property, now passed 
 Into various hands. However, f. ' e 
 
 considerable litigation, conducted for 
 them by John Hllyard Cameron, and 
 after a large sum of money had been 
 already expended on examining the 
 will and other law preliminaries, the 
 heirs decided to let well alone, and the 
 claim was abandoned. Thus, as the 
 one-who-knew-everythlng tells us, the 
 evil that men (and women) do, lives 
 after them; but we hope sincerely the 
 poor old dame is not getting "het 
 ehlns for't the day," for having proved 
 herself an unjust steward, minus his 
 astuteness. It would be hard to hear 
 (he mistakes and false steps of a life- 
 time commented on by injured descend- 
 ants, over one's head, when it had 
 been lying low some eighty years, 
 imder the dark leaves and ever-en- 
 rroachlng bushes of that burial 
 mound. 
 
 « * « 
 
 This old-time place, so full of name- 
 less graves, those ships that have gone 
 down in the night, leaving no trace be- 
 hind, fastens itself on one as sad and 
 pathetic in the last degree. Far more 
 belittling to human vanity than any 
 amount of meditation among modern 
 tombs. No display of costly marbles 
 or lying epitaphs here; nothing but the 
 rotting leaves and bare, damp boughs, 
 black against the autumn sky, to come 
 between us, and this gaunt reality of 
 life and death, that bugbear at which 
 
 tt' isai 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 i^-' 
 
 we squirm and shrivel, and cry oiit in 
 fear, while Nurse Nature only smiles, 
 pointing to the wintry branches over- 
 head, where she has long been busy, 
 fastening on the chrysalis leaves, 
 ready painted in delicate and wondrous 
 hues, and now wrapped up closely, 
 tenderly as a dead babe, and gummed 
 Bo firm and so secure, to sleep, in 
 warmth and safety, till the spring's 
 eweet kiss shall call them forth to 
 light and beauty. 
 
 ALMA DICK LAUDER. 
 
14 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 i 'M 
 
 
 HISTORIC HOMES ON THE MOUNTAIN 
 
 li- • 
 
 <k 
 
 x> 
 
 
 ry out In 
 
 y smiles, 
 
 hes over- 
 
 ;en busy, 
 
 leaves, 
 
 wondrous 
 
 closely, 
 
 gummed 
 
 sleep, In 
 
 spring's 
 
 forth to 
 
 O M E people 
 will know the 
 
 , — II location of the 
 
 Ji g^ "X flag-staff shown 
 
 * in this Initial 
 scene; other 
 people will not. 
 Without Intend, 
 ing at all to ad- 
 vertise a place 
 which has, sad 
 to say, been 
 turned into a 
 money - making 
 spot, it would 
 be a good thing 
 for the reputa- 
 tion of Hamil- 
 ton, if not only 
 
 all her own 
 
 ■ people, but all 
 
 the strangers who come within her 
 gates, could be able to climb the moun. 
 tain and view the valley and surround- 
 ing hills from the point of observation 
 around the flag-pole. It is at the 
 northwest point of the Chedoke park 
 property, and right alongside of it one 
 gazes down a precipice over which It 
 would be death to tumble, for it 
 drops into the bed of the Chedoke falls 
 basin, where huge boulders lie moss- 
 covered and . water-washed, and 
 where the vegetation of an almost 
 natural wilderness flourishes all season 
 long. To the north and west, away 
 across the valley of the marsh and 
 bay, tower the hills of Flamboro, taking 
 on hues of all colors as the summer 
 season advances and the crops along 
 their fertile sides ripen. To the west 
 nestles Dundas, and to the east the 
 city lies. The flag-pole has been there 
 many a long year, as has also the resi- 
 dence, built by a Great Western rail- 
 way magnate for his own private use. 
 It was a bold conceit, the building of 
 that fine house up there on the moun- 
 tain's edge, and It meant the expendi- 
 ture of a great deal of money, but 
 those were the days when money was 
 
 more easily made than now, and 
 there were fewer ways of spending It. 
 Throughout the residence was built in 
 fine style, and there are some bits of 
 interior there antique enough to be 
 almost curious. 
 
 « • • 
 
 In the day when that house was built 
 there were no numerous bakeshops, 
 no grand hotels, and few of the con- 
 veniences known in this day around 
 the city. For this reason there was 
 built in the Chedoke house a great 
 kitchen and bake room. The artist 
 shows the picture of the bake oven. 
 There on the hot bricks the bread was 
 baked and browned and in the great 
 cavity behind the two doors above the 
 snroking of hams and other meats was 
 dore. The floor in front of the bake 
 ovens is made of great slabs of stone, 
 and close by in the room is a pump 
 running down into a spring of the 
 finest clear, cold water. On the other 
 side of the room is a dresser. Not one 
 of the small pieces of furniture that 
 we know In this day, but one of the 
 old kind that takes up nearly the whole 
 sjiace of the side wall and reaches 
 almost to the ceiling. 
 
 The grounds up there simply abound 
 with old buildings. There was room 
 enough and seemed to be money 
 enough for every department of the es- 
 tablishment to be under a separate 
 roof. The chickens, the pigs, the 
 horses and all the other animals had 
 homes of their own and all separate. 
 Nor were they poorly constructed 
 places either, all being well enough 
 built to have served as habitations for 
 human beings. They had a chapel- 
 there too; at least It was a chapel 
 when it wasn't something else. Billiard 
 tables are said to have found a home 
 In it, and the floor was too good a one 
 to be left Idle when the sound of music 
 was heard and the young people 
 wanted to dance. The stairway to 
 
 i: I 
 
 I'l 1 
 
« l'!!i 
 
 ilHi 
 
 54 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 this part of the establishment leads up 
 from the outside and is still in exist- 
 ence, as the picture shows. 
 
 But by no means all the glories of 
 ancient architecture center about the 
 houses at Chedoke. There are other 
 places within a stone's throw almost 
 that are much more picturesque and 
 beautiful. The old family home of the 
 Buchanans is one of these set In the 
 midst of a grand old grove of trees and 
 looking quaint and beautiful as one 
 approaches It. It cannot be called the 
 house of seven gables, but it nearly 
 approaches it, there being Ave along 
 its front. From the outside one begins 
 to feel the spell of the gothic in archi- 
 tecture, and once In the house the im- 
 pression is soon firmly fixed that when 
 he had the house built Hon. Isaac 
 Buchanan was in everything a disciple 
 of the old European style. There does 
 not seem to be a thing m the place in 
 which it was possible at ull to make a 
 curve that is not curved, and with the 
 Gothic curve, too. Fire places, win- 
 dow arches, windows, doors and even 
 celling decorations are all the same 
 and the impression is more pleasing 
 
 than otherwise. 
 
 * • * 
 
 Hon. Isaac Buchanan, whose name 
 and memory are so closely linked to 
 the past history of Hamilton, is dead 
 — long since gathered to his fathers. 
 
 -f^^^^^a^^^^i^^A^j^MU^im^* 
 
 His good wife, who endeared herself 
 to countless numbers of persons in her 
 life time, has also gone to her reward, 
 and for many years now the old Buch- 
 anan homestead has been that in name 
 only. Auchmar they called the house 
 and Clalrmont park distinguished the 
 cool, shady grove surrounding the 
 house. The whole place was vacant 
 for several years after the Buchanan 
 family moved into the city, and then 
 a cultured English gentleman named 
 Capt. Trigg became its owner. He has 
 had repairs made, and while he re- 
 mains there it is sure that the olden 
 time beaut> of the place will remain. 
 * * • 
 Almost the first thing that is calcu- 
 lated to impress one when approach- 
 ing Clalrmont park is the massive 
 stone wall surrounding the grounds. 
 From a distance it gives the impres- 
 sion of a little walled fort. And, 
 strangely enough, in the whole wall 
 there Is not an angle, every change 
 in direction being arrived at by a 
 graceful curve, which, though it wast- 
 
ins' 
 
 red herself 
 sons In her 
 ner reward, 
 
 old Buch- 
 lat In name 
 
 the house 
 uished the 
 [nding the 
 uras vaoant 
 
 Buchanan 
 and then 
 nan named 
 er. He has 
 hlle he re- 
 the olden 
 fill remain. 
 
 t Is calcu- 
 approach- 
 e massive 
 le grounds, 
 the Impres- 
 ort. And, 
 whole wall 
 ry change 
 at by a 
 gh it wast- 
 
 1 
 
 HISTORIC HOMES ON THE MOUNTAIN 
 
 55 
 
 ed ground space, greatly added to the 
 general beauty of the place. In keep, 
 ing with the massive wall surrounding 
 the grounds, there is not an entrance 
 to the house, either by window or 
 door that is not securely guarded by 
 iron bars, which, in this day, give one 
 the idea of a prison, but which, no 
 doubt, at the time the house was 
 built, were regarded as quite the proper 
 thing in the line of safety. It was 
 
 and gold ornamentation. Across the 
 hallway from this la the ball room. 
 Capt. Trigg does not use this room as 
 a ball room any more. It has become 
 his preaching room, and for a consid- 
 erable time he held religious service 
 there every Sunday. 
 
 The same scale of magnificence that 
 marks the arrangement of everything 
 
 iiiiiii 
 
 
 THE BUCHANAN HOMESTEAD. 
 
 all right then; it looks strange now. 
 The eastern entrai^ice to the house is 
 next the conservatory, and the visitor 
 is at once ushered into a most cathe- 
 dral-like main hallway running the 
 full length of the house, east and west, 
 from the conservatory at one end to 
 the reception and ball room at the 
 other, making a full distance of per- 
 haps 80 feet. The hall is cathedral- 
 like because its celling is Gothic. Nor 
 Is It gloomy, as one might imagine. 
 The effect is not gloom; it is some- 
 thing different— a dim, religious light. 
 • * • 
 
 At the western end of the hall is the 
 reception room, and a beautiful room 
 it is, with its grreat windows opening 
 out on the grounds, its curiously carv- 
 ed window arches and its rich white 
 
 on the upper floors applies to the 
 basement, which, as Capt. Trigg says, 
 is roomy enough to hide a whole regi- 
 ment of soldiers and still have space 
 for more. There are great vaults and 
 roomy store rooms beneath the whole 
 house, and the construction work 
 down there is on a par with that In 
 every other part of the place. 
 • • * 
 Hon. Isaac Buchanan was a msLn 
 who was daring in enterprise and as 
 successful as he was daring. Nor did 
 the marks of his individuality cease 
 there. He was peculiar, in his unlim- 
 ited generosity and perhaps no man 
 ever gave more genuine pleasure and 
 enjoyment In the distribution than did 
 he. When he oame to Hamilton it 
 was as the partner and Canadian rep- 
 
 !ii; ,i 
 
 i!;w) 
 
 n 
 
 I i J 
 
 d 
 
56 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 
 '%'Kv 
 
 
 
 ~JJI^. 
 
 FOR THE BIRDS AT AUCHMAR. 
 
 resentatlve of a great firm of Scotch 
 merchants. He helped to make not 
 only this city, but this country, what 
 it is to-day. His was one of the first 
 voices raised in approval of the G. 
 W. R. enterprise, and he became one 
 of the. directors of that rcid. He was 
 always giving to the churches and re- 
 ligious objects, and his gift of a thous- 
 and pounds for the establishment of 
 branches of the Free Church of Scot- 
 land in Canada will be long remem- 
 bered. In 1837 he was a prominent 
 figure in the quelling of the Macken- 
 zie rebellion, and for several years he 
 represented Hamilton in the house of 
 parliament. His last appearance in 
 political lir was in 1865, when he was 
 opposed by Major McElroy. The elec- 
 tion continued two days and the vot- 
 ing was open. At the close of the 
 poll on the second day Mr. Buchanan 
 was ahead by 14 votes and a protest 
 was entered. Before anything was 
 done In It, however, he resig^ied and 
 retired to private life. It was at the 
 close of election campaigns that 
 Auchmar was best known by the peo- 
 ple, (or then It was that Mr. and Mrs. 
 Buchanan were to be seen at their 
 best, receiving their friends and mak- 
 
 ing them happy. Many has been the 
 reception to his constituents held in 
 the park grounds, and many has been 
 the cheer sent up from the throats of 
 the hundreds of people gathered for 
 the success of the man they all loved 
 
 and honored. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Nor has Auchmar been limited as to 
 guests to the plebeian class, if that 
 term will be allowed in this age of 
 democracy. On many an occasion has 
 its solid walls sheltered and its 
 charming host and hostess entertain- 
 ed the great men and women of the 
 old world. Lord Monck, Col. Lord 
 Russell, Sir Francis Hincks, Sir Geo. 
 E. Cartier and many another such 
 have been honored guests in the now 
 old house at different times, while Sir 
 John A. Macdonald was a frequent 
 visitor there. Nor is this all, for it 
 is said that during the time Imme- 
 diately following the unfortunate 
 Ridgeway affair the wounded men, 
 who happened to come that way, 
 were taken in and sheltered, and dur- 
 ing the time the regulars were sta- 
 tioned In the city the officers had no 
 better entertainers than the master 
 and mistress of Auchmar. The master 
 
HISTORIC HOMES ON THE MOUNTAIN 
 
 57 
 
 died on Oct. 1, 1883, 
 lives after him. 
 
 but his name 
 
 Away back of the Buchanan home- 
 stead, several concessions south, there 
 is an old, weather-beaten frame build- 
 ing: which is best known as the Rymal 
 homestead and which marks the birth, 
 place of Honest Joe, whose name is as 
 well known In county politics as the 
 alphabet to the school children. The 
 old place stands on a hill and overlooks 
 broad acres of fertile roliingr land on 
 all sides. Old Jacob Rymal, the build- 
 er of the place, came to this country in 
 th« very early years of the present 
 century, and he was of sturdy United 
 Empire Loyalist stock. The first house 
 he lived in was one of the original log 
 dwellings of which so few are left. 
 Then as things prospered he built the 
 frame clapboard structure. Beyond 
 the fact that the house was the home 
 
 of Honest Joe, it Is famous for but 
 one thing. Grandfather Jacob Rymal 
 and William Lyon Mackenzie were fel. 
 low members of the Upper Canada 
 house of parliament and friends. At 
 the time when Mackenzie started his 
 famous rebellion In Toronto in ]G37 the 
 Rymal house came into soma promin- 
 ence. When William Lyon was 
 beaten at Toronto and had to run for 
 his life, he came through the woods 
 to the house of his friend, Jacob 
 Rymal. There he was sheltered for an 
 hour or two and furnished with a 
 horse. On. this horse he escaped by the 
 old Indian trail road to Niagara and 
 the American side. It is not on record 
 whether he returned the horse or not. 
 Descendants of the Rymal family still 
 occupy the old house, and it looks as 
 if it would continue to be the Rymal 
 homestead for some years to come 
 yet. J. E. W. 
 
 been the 
 held in 
 
 has been 
 throats of 
 hered for 
 
 all loved 
 
 ited as to 
 if that 
 age of 
 asion has 
 
 and its 
 entertain- 
 en of the 
 !ol. Lord 
 
 Sir Geo. 
 her such 
 the now 
 
 while Sir 
 frequent 
 all, for it 
 ne imme- 
 
 fortunate 
 led men, 
 hat way, 
 
 and dur- 
 were sta- 
 rs had no 
 
 e master 
 
 he master 
 
 RYMAL HOMESTEAD. 
 
 
 i 
 
r 
 
 » 
 
 ! M 
 
 S I 
 
 ( J 
 
 .•a 
 
 ! 
 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY 
 
 ARDLT would a 
 person go Into a 
 burying ground 
 on pleasure bent, 
 and yet that la 
 what artist and 
 writer did In their 
 pleasureable task 
 of delving among 
 ruins. Just a bit 
 tired o<f the coun., 
 try side and 
 wanting a breathing spell before start, 
 Ing out from the city in other direc- 
 tions for new llelds of research, they 
 have taken a day off, and in among 
 the tombs of worthies long since dead 
 have sat them down upon old moss- 
 grown stones to think and muse a 
 while. But not In the modern city of 
 the dead has their leisure hour been 
 spent. Rather where graves have lost 
 all likeness to their former selves; 
 where tablets lie about In rare con- 
 fusion, not one among a score serv- 
 ing its proper office, marking the spot 
 particular where this or that one lies; 
 and where the careless hand of time, 
 unchecked, has done its wrecking 
 work, making the former well-kept 
 ground a wilderness where none would 
 go of choice, save those who love the 
 night and deeds of darkness. 
 • • * 
 And this spot lies within the city 
 limits, out on the King street road, as 
 It dips into the deep ravine of the 
 Dundas marsh to the west. It is the 
 old Roman Catholic burying ground, 
 first used about the year 1850, and left 
 to ruin and decay in 1875, Just 21 years 
 ago. Those years have done their 
 work of mischief with the place, and 
 it is to-day all over just what the 
 picture shows it in a single spot. 
 Many a stone lies broken on the 
 ground, many a grave is sunken In. 
 Some of the bodies have been taken 
 to the newer cemetery across the bay; 
 others are there still, as if no friend 
 
 were left alive among their kin to 
 care for human clay. For years the 
 clergy of the Roman Catholic church 
 have tried to Impress upon their 
 people that these bodies should be re- 
 moved, but still some are there in 
 spite of pleas and protestations. The 
 place is no longer guarded, fences are 
 down and vandal hands have aided in 
 the general work. 
 
 The picture shows a vault — the only 
 one — its side walls crumbling In, Its 
 door of Iron bars loose, hanging on 
 its hinges and from above Its portal a 
 nameplate gone. It was the last long 
 resting place of the Larkln family, 
 but since Its dead have been removed 
 Its purpose seems to be to serve the 
 ends of vagrants, thieves and others, 
 fearful not of spirits, man or Deity. 
 More than one criminal has found 
 refuge in Its long, narrow cells where 
 once has lain a body, stilled In death; 
 more than one vagrant tramp has 
 sought its shelter In the storms of 
 winter, glad enough of even such a 
 hiding place from the cutting, chilling 
 blast. 
 
 Thanks to the good records kept, it 
 Is not a trying task to tell all about 
 the burial places of the Roman Catho- 
 lics of the city. The books go back 
 to 1838, and from then on till about 1850 
 it will be a surprise to many to know 
 that the dead found their last resting, 
 place beneath St. Mary's cathedral. 
 Not so very long ago a great pile of 
 bones was taken from the ground In 
 excAvatlng a furnace cellar in the 
 basement, and they were relnterred 
 with reverential care In another spot. 
 In 1849 Bishop Gordon, of the cathe- 
 dral, began an agitation for a ceme- 
 tery ground, and the record says that 
 on the day of Aug. 19, 1849, he called 
 together the following influential mem- 
 bers of his congregation to deal with 
 the matter: J. G. Larkln, Timothy 
 Murphy, Donald Stuart, J. L. Egan, 
 C. J. Tracey, Maurice Fitzpatrick, Wm. 
 
"% 
 
 ON THE OUTSKIUTS OK THE CITY 
 
 59 
 
 inr^.: 
 
 
 
 OLD BARTON STONE CHUUCH. 
 
 Harris, Charles Warmall, Timothy 
 Brick, T. Clohecy, John O'Grady, Den- 
 nis Nelligan, Thomas Beatty, Neal 
 Campbell and S. McCurdy. These men 
 were constituted a cemetery commit- 
 tee, and, not coming to any satisfac- 
 tory agreement with the City qouncll 
 for the purchase of a part of the gen- 
 eral cemetery ground, they purchased 
 the King street site from Richard 
 Blaekwell. The record goes on and tells 
 of all the Interments, with very full 
 description of each person buried. It 
 was then the beginning of cholera time 
 and page after page Is filled with 
 names of victims of the dread scourge. 
 Those were the days when doctors' 
 certificates were not required in cases 
 of death, and in many a case the cause 
 of death is recorded in the book "un- 
 known." Judging from the large 
 number of cases recorded "smother- 
 ed," it looks as if the day of "heart 
 disease" recording had not arrived. In 
 1874 the cemetery had served Us time 
 and a new one was opened across the 
 bay — one of the prettiest and best 
 equipped to be found anywhere. The 
 church still owns the King street 
 ground, but has no use for it. It is 
 
 for sale, and the day may yet come 
 when the plow will remove ali trace 
 of grave and monument, and garden 
 stuffs will grow where grave grass 
 
 once did flourish. 
 
 • * * 
 
 Writing of burying grounds and 
 their surroundings, there is another 
 one worth considering quite near the 
 city on the mountain top. It Is the 
 old Barton stone church premises on 
 the back road over the mountain. Both 
 church and burying ground are his- 
 toric In their way. At the time the 
 church was built, somewhere about 
 1822, the road on which it was situated 
 was the main highway of the county 
 from Ancaster way to Niagara Falls. 
 Over that road in even earlier years 
 the Indians had traveled, it being, In 
 fact, the original Indian trail. Staunch 
 U. E. Loyalist families, including the 
 Muirheads, Bonds, Kerns, Flllmans, 
 Frenchs, Gourlays and others had set- 
 tled about this place, and they con- 
 ceived the Idea of building a meeting- 
 house for themselves. They clubbed 
 together and held building bees. In 
 this way the stone was quarried, haul- 
 ed, put in place and- the church edifice 
 
 I 
 
 
w 
 
 60 
 
 WKNTWOUTH LANDMARKS 
 
 built. At that time the now aged 
 end revered Canon Bull, of Niagara 
 Falls, was a student at college, and 
 Dean Gteddes was In ofTlce in the city 
 below the mountain brow. The then 
 new church became a part of his 
 charge and for some time he supplied 
 its pulpit. Then Canon Bull was or- 
 dained for the priesthood of the 
 church, and this became his charge. 
 There was nothing very remarkable 
 about the history of the place. The 
 little ones— now the men and women 
 
 cemetery around It Is well filled with 
 graves and the headstones tell of lives 
 passed out Into the great eternity both 
 years ago and in recent dates. Amongst 
 the most ancient are the FlUman plot, 
 1822, and the French plot, 1825. An old- 
 fashioned stone fence surrounds the 
 church and cemetery, and the whole 
 place bears the stamp of historic In- 
 terest. It is a dearly loved spot to all 
 the old residents, and they all still 
 speak with reverence of the old stone 
 church of Barton on the mountain. 
 
 i ! t 
 
 ■ 
 
 i I 
 
 I; 
 
 il 
 
 i 
 
 II 
 
 THE BREWBKY THAT WAS. 
 
 workers of Holy Trinity church — were 
 christened there, they were some of 
 them married there, and others of them 
 were laid beneath the sod there. W. 
 Muirhead, who is one of the few old 
 ones left, remembers the church In Its 
 prime. His daughter played the 
 organ and the choir used to meet at 
 his house once a week for practice. 
 Then there came a time when the peo- 
 ple began to populate further east, 
 and it was decided to build another 
 church in that direction. This was done 
 and the old church was closed about 
 twenty years ago. To-day its windows 
 are boarded up, its walls are showing 
 the effects of Time's destroying hand, 
 and as each year passes it will become 
 a more and more interesting relic of 
 the days and times that were. The 
 
 From a cemetery to a church, and 
 from the church to an old brewpry 
 seems a rather peculiar line of fh; . 
 slon, but it means nothing. hey an 
 all In the relic and nii and to- 
 
 day around the old \ uin mem- 
 
 ory is Just as swet . wholesome 
 
 as it is about the ch 1 or cemetery, 
 at least In the minds . some i)eople. 
 The old brewery relic is dow in the 
 valley at the Junction of Wain and 
 King streets in the west end of the 
 city, and it is rapidly disappearing. 
 The ruin is so old that it is a hard 
 matter to get any authentic informa- 
 tion as to its inception as a beer maji- 
 ufactory. It has changed hands many 
 times, too, and so far as history goes 
 back, every proprietor seems to have 
 been a German. The place is certain- 
 
^1' 
 
 filled with 
 »I1 of Uvea 
 rnlty both 
 . Amongst 
 Iman plot, 
 6. An old- 
 lunds the 
 the whole 
 Istoric In- 
 ipot to all 
 f all still 
 old stone 
 iintaln. 
 
 P- 
 
 lih 
 
 >T 
 
 f- 
 
 
 ^>k: 
 
 ?v*S(lI^'v 
 
 -W- 
 
 lurch, and 
 J brewery 
 
 of ?!'1('( 
 
 hey as. 
 and to- 
 uin mem- 
 vvholesome 
 cemetery, 
 Tir people, 
 in the 
 Main and 
 nd of the 
 appearing, 
 is a hard 
 informa- 
 beer man- 
 .nds many 
 story goes 
 8 to have 
 is certain- 
 
 
 
 V 
 
 / 
 
 ^' , 
 
 
 /•^ 
 
 
 iii 
 
 iki 
 
Jl 
 
 I' 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 
 ' ; 
 
 
 'iln^ 
 
 
 ;if 
 
 ! I 
 
 :3il 
 
 '][ ! 
 
 i i« 
 
 !li 
 
 '1^ 
 
ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY 
 
 63 
 
 ly much over 50 years old, ahd It was 
 in operatiow up to within fifteen years 
 ago, John Eydt being the last proprie- 
 tor. Twenty-nine years ago the pro- 
 prietor was Edmund Ekhardt. That 
 was Just at the close of the stay of 
 the rifle brigade here, and for two 
 years previous to that time it had 
 been vacant. The quality of the beer 
 made there was such that the place 
 was a regular hangout for the sol- 
 diers when off duty. Eckhardt died 
 by an accident, falling from his deliv- 
 ery wagon and breaking his neck. His 
 widow aiterward married Archie 
 Coutts, the hackman, being still mis- 
 tress of his house. The glory of the 
 brewery v. as Its beer. There are men 
 in the city to-day who delight to tell 
 of their experiences up there. When 
 the place was in its prime it was the 
 most popular resort for miles around. 
 The grounds around it were well kept 
 and the proprietor had a large space 
 fixed up as a summer garden. There 
 the young men of the city used to as- 
 semble and drink beer that was beer, 
 so they say. They could get half a 
 
 gallon of it for 10 cents, and when they 
 finished it they were Just as sober 
 and as bright as when they started. 
 It was beer made out of barley and 
 hops, pure and simple, and the people 
 liked it. The entrance to the garden 
 was by a vine-covered arch, and over 
 the arch was a big sign which read, 
 "Positively no beer sold on Sunday." 
 It what the men who patronised the 
 place say is true, there never was a 
 place In the city before, nor has there 
 been one since, that could equal it. 
 There is little of it left to-day. The 
 picture shows the ruin ana in a few 
 years It will all be gone. The ground 
 now belongs to the Pattison estate, 
 and is used as pasture land. The 
 place is said to have been built by a 
 German named Muntzeimer, and 
 among the men who ran it afterward 
 were Messrs. Beck, Schwartz, Schuch, 
 Fletcher, Ekhardt and Eydt. It Is 
 now a pretty ruin and many amateur 
 photographers have taken snap shots 
 of it to add to their collections. 
 
 J. E. W. 
 
 
 i -it 
 
 
 ^<'^\,^ 
 
 
 THE OLD OHOLUHA CKMETEHY ON THE HEIOHTB. 
 
 
: 
 
 i;!i 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 BURLINGTON HEIGHTS 
 
 iiHll^ 
 
 Nil 
 
 Not anywhere else In or near the 
 city of Hamilton is it at all likely 
 that a more historically gruesome 
 ground can be found than that around 
 Eurlington Heights and the Desjar- 
 dins canal. Nor is it likely that in 
 any other district of similar size here- 
 abouts so much money has been spent. 
 And all this is simply in the tale of 
 the last half century — not going back 
 to the times before Hamilton was. 
 The other day a farmer, plowing In a 
 field on the side of the heights over 
 the canal, unearthed a skeleton. Un- 
 doubtedly it was that of an Indian: 
 possibly that of a warrior, and if rec- 
 ords only went back far enough the 
 story of the hills might be one of wars 
 and conflicts, of tribe extinctions and 
 horrible butcheries; for the heights 
 have ever been regarded as an unusu- 
 ally fine strategic point, and for that 
 purpose they were undoubtedly used. 
 But their more modern day history is 
 sufficient in itself for a chapter In 
 melancholy and figures, and it can 
 best be started off by a sketch of the 
 canal— that canal which is the God- 
 given right of the Dundas man, and 
 which, from its inception to the pres- 
 ent time, he has guarded with the 
 same care he would his purse. 
 
 Somewhere about the year 1816 the 
 government granted a royal charter 
 for the cutting of a channel through 
 the Beach at the lake end of Hamil- 
 ton bay and another one of the same 
 kind for a canal through Burlington 
 heights and up to the town of Dun- 
 das. Those were the days when steam 
 power for general use was a visionary 
 project and when nearly all carrying 
 was done by sailing vessels and canal 
 boats. For that reason the cutting 
 of the Canal to Dundas was a wonder- 
 ful thing for the town, as it made it 
 the head of navigation and brought 
 all kinds of boats to its very doors, 
 metaphorically speaking. But though 
 
 the charter was granted in 1816, the 
 work was not completed In iS3?, and 
 when it was done it was in a veiy 
 different way than appears to-day. 
 Persons traveling out the town line 
 road north of the present canal bridge 
 will have noticed the apparently clear 
 waterway turning north some distance 
 from the present canal outlet. This 
 waterway is crossed by the taw a line 
 road and further north again by the 
 London division of the Grand Trunk 
 system, and further to the north and 
 east again by the Toronto branch 
 tracks of the same railway. The old 
 waterway, which can readily be traced 
 by its clearness and freedom from the 
 ever-present rushbeds, was the orig- 
 inal course of the canal, which found 
 Its outlet Into the bay at a point be- 
 hind the Valley Inn and at the place 
 Where the Toronto branch tracks run 
 along on the high embankment. Get- 
 ting into the bay there the channel 
 wound its way due south, being span- 
 ned by a swing bridge where the pres- 
 ent plains road bridge crosses It, and 
 getting out into deep, clear water past 
 the point of land at Bayview. It was 
 a circuitous, winding way, but the eas- 
 ier way, from an engineering sitand- 
 polnt, there being no great hills \.o cut 
 through. By this way the commerce 
 of the great lakes came and went to 
 Dundas town, and Dundas town, in 
 consequence, began to feel very much 
 up on itself. 
 
 * « * 
 
 Next to earthquakes they do say that 
 railway engineering and buildings are 
 the best medium for changing the 
 topography of a country. People in 
 Hamilton will readily admit that the 
 building of railways about and in this 
 city has done a wonderful lot to make 
 differences in the looks of things, and 
 the same can truthfully be said of the 
 Burlington heights region. In the 
 early days of the winding Dundas 
 canal there were no railways. Had 
 there been it is not likely there ever 
 
w 
 
 M:i 
 
 BURLINGTON HEIGHTS 
 
 65 
 
 1816, the 
 iS3?, and 
 I a veiy 
 s to-day. 
 ;own line 
 nal bridge 
 ntly clear 
 e distance 
 let. This 
 tawn line 
 In by the 
 nd Trunk 
 north and 
 :o branch 
 The old 
 be traced 
 from the 
 the orig- 
 lich found 
 point be- 
 the place 
 racks run 
 ent. Get- 
 channel 
 ing spam- 
 the pres- 
 ?s it, and 
 i^ater past 
 It was 
 t the eas- 
 ig sitand- 
 ills io cut 
 commerce 
 went to 
 town, in 
 ery much 
 
 say that 
 dings are 
 Ing the 
 eople in 
 that the 
 Id in this 
 
 to make 
 ings, and 
 id of the 
 
 In the 
 r Dundas 
 Had 
 lere ever 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 R 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 <«1 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 -d 
 
 a 
 H 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 S3 
 o 
 
 H (B 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 « 
 
 03 2 
 S5 o 
 
 19 
 
 o 
 ja 
 
 U3 
 
 • 
 U 
 
 3 
 
 O4 
 
 ja 
 
66 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 ri 
 
 Si 
 
 would have been a canal. But there 
 were no railways, and the canal was, 
 and so long as the railways stayed 
 away Dundas and the canal had their 
 Inning:. When the railway came it was 
 different. This was in the beginning 
 of the flftiefl, and the railway in pros- 
 pect was the 'reat Western. It want- 
 ed to get into the city of Hamilton and 
 the city wanted it to come. These two 
 things being so, nothing like an old 
 canal outlet was going to make any 
 difference. The picturesque turning, 
 winding channel must be blocked. 
 Railway engineers figured that it would 
 be cheaper to close up the old outlet 
 than bridge it, even if it was necessary 
 that a new outlet should be cut, Just 
 the canal width at some other point 
 through the hill. With this end in view 
 negotiations were commenced with the 
 canal company. The proposition was 
 that the railway was to be allowed to 
 fill in the old outlet and cut a new 
 one, which would make the canal pas- 
 sage very much shorter (the present 
 outlet). For shortening up the arti- 
 ficial waterway the railway received 
 no less than $65,000 from the canal 
 company, and this was merely a small 
 part of the amount required to finish 
 the work. Figures are not obtainable 
 as to the actual cost of filling in the 
 ravine and old outlet of the old canal 
 and making the new canal, but 
 it must have been enormous. It is 
 known and remembered that the fill- 
 in of the old canal bed was a long 
 and tedious work, the marsh being ex- 
 tremely absorbent just there, taking 
 In all kinds of things and still show- 
 ing nothing for it. 
 
 Then it was that the face of nature 
 around the heights began to change. 
 The railway ran along the east side of 
 the hills and on the top was the King's 
 highway. At the new canal outlet the 
 canal company built a bridge on the 
 high level, one long suspension span, 
 a picture of which is shown with this 
 article. The railway company, too, 
 built a bridge at a much lower level — 
 a swing bridge, so as to allow vessels 
 to pass through the canal to the 
 metropolis — Dundas. This was about 
 the year 1853, and it was from this 
 time that the day of Dundas began to 
 decline. With the railway it was 
 easier, and in the end cheaper, to do 
 shipping from Hamilton, and the swing 
 bridge at the canal making It incon- 
 
 venient at times for vessels to get into 
 the canal, they gradually came to 
 make Hamilton their stopping point. 
 Of course, Dundas people did not like 
 this, but there did not seem to be any 
 way for them to stop it. However, 
 there came a day when, so it was said, 
 they saw a chance to have their re- 
 venge on both railway and city in an 
 indirect way. In 1857, during a high 
 wind storm, one August night, the high 
 level suspension bridge across the 
 canal was blown down. Then to get 
 into Hamilton it was necessary to 
 drive around by Dundas, and the Dun- 
 das people were not slow to see that 
 if the farmers could be persuaded in 
 some way to come there instead of to 
 Hamilton it would be a good thing for 
 them. They had to rebuild the high 
 level bridge, but they did it in such 
 a way, and after it was built kept It 
 in such state of repair that people had 
 no vivid hankering for driving over it. 
 This was the argument used in court 
 when the Hamilton and Milton Road 
 company went to law with the canal 
 company, and there were many peo- 
 ple who believed it. 
 
 The legal action arose in this way: 
 The toll road company, using the high 
 level road and bridge, discovered that 
 owing to the bad condition the bridge 
 was in it was losing business, farmers 
 going around by Dundas. The canal 
 company did not seem anxious to 
 make the necessary repairs' and finally, 
 after a long continued argument, the 
 toll company purchased and secured 
 privileges over land along the east of 
 the hill. Its intention was to make a 
 new road there, cross the canal with 
 a low level, permanent bridge and go 
 around the heights to the north on 
 either side. In fact the work pro- 
 gressed to the bridge before any op- 
 position came, and then the canal 
 people kicked. A. injunction was se- 
 cured and the work stopped while 
 the matter was fought out In the 
 courts. It was said that the Great 
 Western railway people had combined 
 with the toll road company and ad- 
 vanced $15,000 to defend the toll com- 
 pany's action, it being understood that 
 the railway hoped, by the success of 
 the toll company in getting a perman- 
 ent bridge across to do away with its 
 swing bridge, which was a nuisance, 
 and substitute a permanent one. But 
 the time was not just then ripe, and 
 the canal company won its case, the 
 toll road company being ordered for 
 
 u 
 
BURLINGTON HEIGHTS 
 
 67 
 
 the time being to stop its low level 
 bridge work. This was in 1871. 
 
 The low level bridge work, however, 
 was far enough completed to allow 
 traffic over it, and traffic there was, as 
 two men, at least, have every reason 
 to know. The structure was of wood 
 and close to the railway bridge. It 
 was a shaky affair at best, and In 
 crossing one had to drive most care- 
 fully. On March 16, 1874, two men 
 
 ceased to be the promenade of masted 
 vessels of merchandise. And this 
 brings ordinary history to present 
 date, though even now they will not 
 leave things as they are. and by the 
 coming of the T., H. and B. another 
 high level road bridge la to come, 
 while a second low level railroad bridge 
 takes Its place. 
 
 But there is another history of the 
 bridges. It is told in the Issue of the 
 
 r=?^ 
 
 A 
 
 ' ^-^ ' ^^"^^^,r?^ '^'^?li-- !2''-J^. T^' 
 
 V. u \y^y^'^^ ''''■;.:''■ }CM'\^ 
 
 ■ ■ 'i 
 
 THi: NEW T. H. & \\. lUUDOE OVEU THE CANAL-THE PKESENT KOAD BKIDQB AND 
 G. T. K. intlDGE IN THE UACKGKOUND. 
 
 from Carlisle, John Moore and Francis 
 Gray, had been in the city with loads 
 of wood. Driving down the hill on 
 their return with their heavy wagons 
 they went onto and through the 
 frail bridge structure, landing in 
 the canal. Three of the horses were 
 drowned and the fourth had to be shot. 
 The men were not seriously hurt. In 
 the same year, by act of parliament, 
 the road company was allowed to cross 
 the canal by a low level, permanent 
 bridge and the old high level bridge 
 was torn down soon afterward. Of 
 r-ourse, a permanent railway bridge 
 followed, and from that day the canal 
 
 Spectator for March 13, 1857. On 
 March 12 of that year, early in the 
 e\ ening, the train on the Great West- 
 ern, Toronto branch, went through 
 the bridge and down into the canal, 
 which was covered with a two-foot 
 coat of ice. There were 95 persons on 
 the train, and of that number at least 
 61) were either killed, drowned or died 
 shortly afterward from injuries re- 
 ceived. It was an appalling railway 
 horror, and sk) far as the evidence 
 went before the coroner's jury there 
 seemed to be no one to directly blame. 
 As nearly as can be made out the 
 engine left the track just before it 
 
 .J 
 
».l! 
 
 i ; 
 
 1.11 I 
 
 1 i It 
 
 i ! 
 
 ii 
 
 68 
 
 WfiNTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 reached the bridge, running into the 
 structure on the ties and breaking it 
 through. A broken axle was said to 
 have been the real cause and the jury 
 blamed no one. So terrible was the 
 accident that people all over America 
 were Interested in the details, and. 
 Frank Leslie's Illustrated, of April 4 
 of that year, contained a long illus- 
 trated account of it, referring to it as 
 the moat awful railway catastrophe 
 the world had at that time ever seen. 
 The letter press of the report was 
 taken from the daily issues of the 
 Spectator, and they vividly describe 
 the fatality in all its harrowing de- 
 tails. The Illustration here shown is 
 from a wood cut In the New York 
 weekly. The Coroner's jury was sit- 
 ting on that accident for over a month, 
 holding sessions one might say daily. 
 On March 22, less than two weeks 
 after the accident, a new bridge was in 
 place, tested and in operation. Fol- 
 lowing the accident also came the 
 statement that the government in- 
 tended introducing a bill at the next 
 session of parliament to provide for 
 the inspection of all railways by gov- 
 ernment engineers. Newspaper re 
 ports of the time also state that after 
 the new bridge was put in running 
 order many railway passengers re- 
 fused to ride over it and the trainfi 
 were stopped to let those people get 
 out and walk across. Since then there 
 have been several other railway hor- 
 rors, not on the bridge, but in that 
 vicinity, and for this the locality has 
 become unenviably famous. 
 • • • 
 
 If there is any place about the city 
 where spirits should come from theii 
 graves at midnight and flit about in 
 the darkness it is the heights. Just as 
 If the loss of life there by railway hor- 
 rors was not sufficient, there is a bury, 
 ing ground there— away up on the high 
 
 level to the north of the canal. This 
 bleak, barren looking spot is the lasi 
 resting place of countless cholera vic- 
 tims who died in the city of the dreaa 
 scourge in the years 1849 and 1854. Nu 
 drearier spot could be found for a 
 burying ground. Perhaps a dozen flr 
 trees are there; stunted and forlori 
 looking, their branches sighing in the 
 wind as in keeping with the eternal 
 fitness of things. To the west from the 
 cemetery the marsh lies in the hollow 
 and the snakelike canal shows Itself 
 through the rush bed maze. Mists 
 rise from the dead waters In early 
 morning and night and malaria and 
 fever seem to breed there. Not a head 
 stone shows in the cemetery; even the 
 fences are down. "What are these 
 little hills, papaV" asked the Spectator 
 artist's little girl as she jumped from 
 one to another. "They are graves," 
 she was told, and at once she stopped 
 her jumping and was serious. "And 
 what are those holes? ' she asked again, 
 pointing, to somewhat larger hollows. 
 "They are graves, too," was the re- 
 ply. "That big hole, too?" she queried 
 again. In wonderment, pointing to a 
 hollow fully fifteen feet square. "Yes." 
 "Oh, papa, nobody ever was as big as 
 that," she replied. Incredulous. 
 
 Innocent little thing. She did not 
 know that In that dread time though 
 at first the dead wagon came over from 
 the city with one body at a time, the 
 day soon came when they were taken 
 in twos and threes, and finally In cart 
 loads, to be dumped in great holes and 
 covered up. And there the mounds 
 and holes are still, mute references to 
 that awful time when the death-tipped 
 wand of pestilence was held above the 
 city. This, In brief. Is the history of 
 the heights, not perhaps complete in 
 detail, but fairly correct In general 
 outline. J. E. W. 
 
^ 
 
 ^'J ) mi 
 
 H! 
 
 the canal. This 
 
 spot is the las I 
 less cholera vic- 
 city of the dreaa 
 849 and 1854. Nu 
 
 be found for a 
 laps a dozen fir 
 ted and forlori 
 s sighing in the 
 Ith the eternal 
 le west from the 
 es in the hollow 
 lal shows itself 
 1 maze. Mists 
 aters in early 
 id malaria and 
 ere. Not a head 
 letery; even the 
 hat are these 
 ;d the Spectator 
 le jumped from 
 iy are graves," 
 nee she stopped 
 
 serious. "And 
 she asked aerain, 
 
 larger hollows. 
 " was the re- 
 o?" she queried 
 
 pointing to a 
 
 square. "Yes." 
 • was as big as 
 !dulous. 
 
 She did not 
 id time though 
 came over from 
 
 at a time, the 
 ley were taken 
 
 finally in cart 
 irreat holes and 
 the mounds 
 e references to 
 le death-tipped 
 held above the 
 
 the history of 
 3s complete in 
 ;t In general 
 J. E. W. 
 
 
 NORTH OF HAMILTON BAY 
 
 i 
 
 The Valley Inn and the Old Channel Through the Heights. 
 ^ Brown's Wharf. ^ By Medad's Marshy Shores. ^ 
 Remains of a Prehistoric Indian Village. .^ Relics From 
 its Ossuaries. j» Legends of the Lake. 
 
 tt m 
 
 '( i 
 
; I 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 NORTH OF HAMILTON BAY 
 
 lil 
 
 OTHING can be 
 truer than this, 
 that in the his. 
 tory of the In- 
 animate as well 
 as animate, the 
 phr a s e holds 
 good, "Each gives 
 place to each." 
 There never was 
 anything so good 
 but that some, 
 thing better was 
 born to supersede 
 it. It is this con- 
 dition that causes ruins, and the point 
 is so happily illustrated in the 
 scene of the initial letter. It is the 
 heights north of the canal mouth as 
 It appeared not long ago. The old 
 frame building in the back ground 
 was once the home of a man who is 
 now living in a city residence much 
 more pretentious; the pile of stone 
 blocks in the foreground is all that is 
 left of the old suspension bridge so 
 much talked of. They were the anchor 
 stones of one of the cables. There are 
 better ways of building bridges now, 
 and men have laid the piers deep in 
 the rock on either side of the cut and 
 erected a newer, more modern piece of 
 . bridge construction. But one other evi. 
 dence of the old days remains there. 
 That is the telegraph poles and wires, 
 the latter strung across the chasm, 
 and at that point ever humming 
 mcurnfully, no matter how zephyr-like 
 the breeze may be elsewhere. 
 
 where the water came from, bubbling 
 perhaps from some natural spring or 
 leaking out in a hundred places from 
 some broad marsh land. 
 
 That same spirit of exploration came 
 over this man when first he saw that 
 arm of Hamilton bay, leading up 
 through dense rush beds, past the Val- 
 ley Inn, spanned by two bridges and 
 losing Itself somewhere away north- 
 east between the hills. One knows It 
 must come from somewhere, and that 
 it is not mere stagnant bay water, 
 wandered up the valley and lost. It 
 has a current, which the open water- 
 way through the rush bed shows, and 
 the current must have a starting 
 point. But inviting and beautiful as 
 that place is now in summer, it was 
 a veritable paradise for the exploring 
 youngster many years ago, before the 
 old canal mouth was closed up and 
 the railway ran across there. In those 
 davs there were two ways to go If 
 one did not care for the northeast trip 
 he could turn northwest and find him- 
 self In the maze of the great Dundas 
 marsh, shut in all about by the giant 
 hills. Now the railway fill spans that 
 gap, and though the open water-way 
 leading past the Valley Inn has never 
 become weed-choked, it leads but to 
 the steep bank of the fill-in. It is a 
 peaceful looking little place, that Val- 
 ley Inn. nestling at the water's edge 
 in the valley, just at the junction of 
 all traveled roads, and there Is a good 
 deal of what is known as that sweet 
 calm In the lives of Its Inhabitants. 
 
 When this man was a small boy he 
 was like nearly every other small boy 
 — most heartily fond of exploration. 
 Around the home of his childhood were 
 innumerable creeks and streams, some 
 navigab'e on an inch plank, others 
 only by bare legs. Those creeks and 
 Btrean'S led somewhere, and into the 
 heart of great shady forests this man 
 would wade till he found the place 
 
 There are two wavs of describing 
 locations in the country north and 
 west of Hamilton. Either a place is 
 on the hill or In the valley; there is 
 nothing on the flat, because there Is 
 no flat, speaking topographically of 
 the land. The heights, where the 
 winds blow, the vales, where streams 
 flow, and you have it all. And if it Is 
 a mill of any sort that has to be lo- 
 
NORTH OF HAMILTON BAY. 
 
 Ti 
 
 I t ! 
 
 
 AT THE VALLEY INN. 
 
 cated the water-fed valley is sure to 
 be the spot. All the valleys have their 
 distinctive names, and one of them, 
 north of the bay, is called Apple- 
 garth's hollo K'. Applegarth may have 
 owned a few hills as well, but they do 
 not christen the hills. This hollow, of 
 course, has its stream (perhaps It Is 
 the stream that runs into the bay 
 past the Valley Inn), and it also has 
 its mill. That mill is one of the most 
 picturesque pieces of ruin to be found 
 anywhere about the country. It was 
 built some time long enough ago to 
 have had several owners and pass 
 Into the ruin stage some ten or twelve 
 years ago. Its stone walls are actual- 
 ly falling to pieces, and yet Insids 
 there is a full and complete milling 
 plant, looking as if it was waiting for 
 the owner to come along, open the big 
 sluice-gate, let In the rushing stream 
 to turn the big wheel and start it all 
 going. But that will never happen 
 Its day is done, and a few more years 
 at most will see it a pile of rubbish. 
 
 Last spring, when the freshets came, 
 the water rushed in on the great wheel, 
 filled the wheel-pit and out came a 
 great block of stone from the build- 
 ing's side. Another and another fol- 
 lowed, and in a few hours fhe world, 
 or that portion of It that chose to 
 come and look, could see the ponderous 
 wheel through the hole, hanging for- 
 lorn-looking and still, save for the 
 water-drip from Its paddles. To-day the 
 ice king has the old wheel bound fast, 
 and the wheel-pit Is hung with glit- 
 tering crystals. 
 
 John Applegarth, one of the original 
 settlers in that district, built the mill, 
 and for years ran it. Since then it 
 has had several masters, but none bet- 
 ter than its first. John Applegarth was 
 known the country over as a white 
 man. He was one of those men not 
 now often found, who, if a man came 
 to him for work, would never turn 
 him away. If he had no work for him 
 to do he would give him a Job any- 
 way and start some new work to keep 
 him going. He and his sons had a 
 grocery and bakery in Hamilton, 
 where they disposed of the products of 
 the mill. The family is all scattered 
 now — most of them in California, 
 one In England, and one, a daughter. 
 In Hamilton on a visit. Close by the 
 mill in the valley is a great elm tree. 
 It has three giant trunks, springing 
 from one parent shoot at the ground 
 surface. It knows all the history of 
 the valley, for it was born there. It 
 must know something of the hill-top 
 history, too, for for many years its 
 topmost branches have been kissed by 
 the sunshine before it threw its beams 
 over the hill. The trees are among the 
 most enduring of nature's many short- 
 lived creations and more enduring 
 than man's best effort; If they could 
 but speak! 
 
 * • * 
 
 There is no one who has lived in 
 Hamilton a summer who has not 
 heard of Brown's wharf. If there was 
 nothing else by which It might be 
 identified than a half sunken pile, 
 water washed and weather beaten, it 
 
 ^i|*l 
 
!l 
 
 I M i 
 
 73 
 
 WENTWOKTH LANDMARKS 
 
 would still be Brown's wharf, and for 
 the reason that It has a past history. 
 There was a time, not so very many 
 years ago, when the old wharf was a 
 busy place, both winter and summer. 
 It was built somewhere about forty 
 years ago by Alexander Brown, an 
 early settler, and it soon became the 
 shipping point for the whole country 
 north of the bay. Those wore the 
 days when the Ontario Navigation 
 
 for many men, but the day of coal 
 came and the cutting of wood ceased. 
 The steamers Ocean and Persia were 
 two Hamilton boats which clung to 
 wood for fuel purpo.ses for a longer 
 time than any others. Of course the 
 wharf was a great shipping point. Be- 
 fore the Intercolonial railway was 
 built Sir William Rowland's flour mills 
 at Waterdown were supplying a great 
 part of the flour for the maritime prov- 
 
 . -* f^ir -J 
 — . ■' If 
 
 
 ■ y 
 
 THE OLD APPLEGARTH MILL. 
 
 company's steamers (now the Riche- 
 lieu) came to Hamilton. They were 
 the days, too, when all the lake boats 
 burned wood, and as the country 
 around Hamilton was heavily timber- 
 ed, they shipped much of the fuel here. 
 For years Mr. Brown had a contract 
 with the Richelieu people to supply 
 their boats with fuel, and In one year 
 the contract amounted to 4,500 cords. 
 Other boats wooded up there, too, and 
 5,000 cords a season was an easy esti- 
 mate of the amount taken from the 
 old wharf. The farmers worked at 
 the wood in the winter, hauling It to 
 the wharf, where Mr. Brown took 
 charge of It. It meant employment 
 
 Inces, and it was all shipped by boat 
 from Brown's wharf. Lumber was 
 another article shipped In large quan- 
 tities, and among the young men who 
 earned a living at that business were 
 the White brothers, one of whom is 
 now Dr. White, of Hamilton. They 
 were lumber measurers in those days, 
 laying fotindations for future great- 
 ness with measuring sticks in hand. 
 The lumber wagons, drawn by great 
 Clydesdale horses, used to come in 
 trains all the way back of Pusllnch 
 township, near Guelph. With the big 
 shipping and the presence of the sail- 
 ors came that time-honored necessity 
 — a tavern and a bakery. Their pro- 
 
lay of coal 
 ood ceased. 
 Persia were 
 1 clung to 
 )r a longer 
 course the 
 ' point. Be. 
 illway was 
 3 flour mills 
 Ing a great 
 rltlnne prov- 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 V- \ 1 
 
 -^';#f 
 
 ed by boat 
 imber was 
 large quan- 
 g men who 
 slness were 
 f whom Is 
 ;on. They 
 those days, 
 ture great- 
 s in hand, 
 n by great 
 come In 
 Puslinch 
 1th the big 
 of the sall- 
 d necessity 
 Their pro- 
 
 NOKTII OF HAMILTOX BAY 
 
 73 
 
 prletors did big business while the 
 boom was on; none when It was over. 
 To-day the wharf Is getting some- 
 what dilapidated In appearance. It is 
 not out of use entirely, this fall be- 
 tween 15,000 and 20,000 barrels of 
 apples bc?lng shipped from there, but 
 It looks as If It had seen better days, 
 which It certainly has. It Is a good 
 place for Ashing, and that Is what it 
 
 is mostly used for In these days of 
 its degenerateness. It may have 
 another busy day; it may not. Hut 
 whatever happens— whother It has a 
 second youth or Is wa.shed and beaten 
 to pieces by wind and wave — It will 
 always be known in reality, or us a 
 memory of the past, as Brown's 
 wharf. .1. K. W. 
 
 
 VIEW ALONG THE 8H0UE OF LAKE MEDAD. 
 
 [■■' 
 I 1 
 
 ■J 
 
 . . . ■ A 
 
 ;, f' 'I 
 
 • 1 ,{ 
 ' i 
 
 
 \ '. 
 
 il \ 
 
 n i 
 
^|!l^ 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 i'v 
 
 III 
 
 HY MEDAD'S MAHSIIY SJIORES 
 
 ijl! 
 
 OME 60 years ago 
 Richard Thomson, 
 one of the old 
 •pioneers of East 
 ■Flamboro, with 
 •William Rose, an- 
 ■other old resident, 
 announced to his 
 •boys, James and 
 Aleck, the Rice 
 boys and the 
 •writer, that they 
 I would take us to 
 see Lake Medad. 
 So on a fine May 
 I morning we start- 
 ^-d from the front 
 'edge of his back 
 j(;>i«''^\»'l..-^'^*' clearing, lot 3, 
 fouriu concession. On lot 2 we di- 
 verged Into the forest, and after some 
 delay struck a faint footpath, which 
 could not have been retained long If 
 certain remembered landmarks had 
 not occasionally appeared on the wind- 
 ing path. There was a large tree, 
 whose foundation was on a large rock 
 about five feet high and whose im- 
 mense roots reached the ground down 
 the sides of the rock. Another further 
 on was our walking through a hollow 
 tree, and lastly striking a spring, the 
 rivulet from which they said was one 
 of the feeders of the lake. On wind- 
 ing up a hemlock ridge we emerged 
 from the woods Into a small clearing, 
 the only house visible being a small log 
 one surrounded by fruit trees and oc- 
 cupied by an old colored man named 
 Solomon, who, from the wonderful 
 stories and mysterious doings related 
 to us of him by our guides impressed 
 us boys as being the embodiment of 
 his namesake's wisdom. 
 
 Some doubt arose then as to where 
 we should descend a precipitous na- 
 tural stone cliff that surrounded the 
 lake on that side, and which probably 
 was not more than 30 or 40 feet high, 
 but to our youthful minds was Invest- 
 ed with the dignity of a mountain. 
 
 On gaining the bottom another diffi- 
 culty arose as to where we should 
 penetrate the dense forest to strike 
 the right landing, so as to see the 
 lake to the best advantage. 
 
 At last a log In the. brushwood was 
 discovered, on which we walked In- 
 dian file, having had direction to be 
 careful not to step off It, as the soil 
 was so treacherous that we might 
 sink out of sight. Leaving it we 
 stepped or were lifted across danger- 
 ous places, and forced our way 
 through the thick underwood, not ob- 
 serving the lake till we were within a 
 few feet of it. Then, as we had 
 fortunately struck the right wharf or 
 landing, which was a large prostrate 
 cedar, fallen, perhaps, In the 1700s, 
 and fully one-third protruding from 
 the bushes into the water. Its top 
 was worn flat by constant use. Here 
 and there short upright limbs were 
 found, to which in after years 
 rafts and boats were tied. (There were 
 none at that time about the shores.) 
 
 The great beauty of the large ex- 
 panse of clear, bright, spring water 
 surrounded by the dark green over- 
 hanging foliage of dense forest, was 
 a scene never to be forgotten, and 
 now in after life I confess that no 
 scene, not even that of Niagara Falls, 
 could be compared to It. Having no 
 fishing tackle, we had to content 
 ourselves with observing the various 
 shoals of sunfish, shiners and perch, 
 and then hungry, tired, but happy, 
 we went home again. LANTERN. 
 
 The description above of Lake Medad 
 ajt it was sixty years ago would not do 
 as a description for to-day. Not only 
 has time but farm settlement changed 
 the appearance of things. Sixty years 
 ago one had to go through dense woods 
 to reach the lake from the fourth con- 
 cession; now it would be necessary to 
 go a considerable distance out of the 
 true line to find a woods dense enough 
 
f 
 
 )ther dlffl- 
 
 ve should 
 
 to strike 
 
 ) see the 
 
 iwood was 
 
 miked In- 
 
 on to be 
 
 IS the soil 
 
 ve might 
 
 sr it we 
 
 as danger- 
 
 our way 
 
 d, not ob- 
 
 e within a 
 
 we had 
 
 wharf or 
 
 prostrate 
 
 the 1700s, 
 
 ding from 
 
 Its top 
 
 use. Here 
 
 mbs were 
 
 ;r years 
 
 here were 
 
 shores.) 
 
 large ex- 
 
 ing water 
 
 Ben over- 
 
 >rest, was 
 
 tten, and 
 
 that no 
 
 ara Falls. 
 
 laving no 
 
 content 
 
 le various 
 
 .nd perch, 
 
 t happy, 
 
 KTERN. 
 
 ike Medad 
 uld not do 
 Not only 
 t changed 
 llxty years 
 nse woods 
 >urth con- 
 cessary to 
 )ut of the 
 se enough 
 
 BY MEDAD's MAUSIIY 8IIOUKS 
 
 75 
 
 i^Asi^ 
 
 Ti' 
 
 < 
 
 Q 
 H 
 
 'A 
 
 < 
 
 h 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 < 
 
 Z 
 
 m 
 
 H 
 
 g 
 
 m 
 
 ill i 
 
i 
 
 Pi^'-' 
 
 ;' I 
 
 ii: iiipl 
 
 76 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 to hide cleared land on its farther side. 
 There are boats on the lake now and 
 a wharf. The old cliff spoken of is 
 still there, but badly disfigured by the 
 action of both air and light, for the 
 stone in it is soft. About the lake 
 now are farm houses and for the most 
 part well cleared, well tilled farm 
 lands. Down about the lake edge and 
 all around is the marsh land, soft and 
 soggy now as sixty years ago, and this 
 Is thickly wooded with hemlock, birch 
 and cedar. Good roads from all parts 
 of the surrounding country lead to the 
 place, and it has become a veritable 
 Mecca for picnic parties during the 
 summer season. 
 
 * * • 
 
 Some people have said that Lake 
 Medad is the basin or crater of some 
 long extinct volcano, and the forma- 
 tion pretty well justifies the belief. But 
 all that must have been in the days 
 even perhaps before Noah had occasion 
 to change his business from farming 
 to navigating. It is a queer fact, 
 however it may be accounted for, that 
 the lake basin is placed away up on 
 the hills behind the valley of the bay, 
 and that by actual measurement the 
 hard bottom is not struck until a 
 depth of nearly 80 feet has been 
 reached. Of course there is not an 80- 
 foot depth of water. The water at its 
 deepest point is never more than 20 
 feet deep, but tiiere is a substance be- 
 low the water that is in many places 
 almost as yielding, and it Is thro"L.n 
 this substance that the greater aepth 
 is reached. All around the lake basin 
 is the marsh or bog land, so soft in 
 places that at this season of the year 
 when spring dampness prevails a pole 
 may be thru>st down into it to almost 
 any depth with the greatest ease. It 
 gives one a very insecure sensation to 
 walk on the spongy substance, but it is 
 safe enough, there being no record of 
 anyone ever having disappeared be- 
 neath its surface. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Around all places where the original 
 aborigine of th's country has been 
 found to have existed, we people of 
 these latter days have been pleased to 
 weave all sorts of mysteries and ro- 
 mances. Lake Medad has not been 
 left alone in this respect, and the im- 
 aginative mind will be able to fairly 
 revel in myth and legend about its 
 banks, on its placid waters, in its 
 dense adjoining swamp growth or on 
 the hill to the south overlooking it all 
 
 —that same hill down which Lantern 
 and his friend clambered some 60 years 
 ago. For Lake Medad and its imme- 
 diate vicinity was in one age of the 
 world's history one of the great gath- 
 -^rlng places of the original Indian 
 peoples. They seemed to have been 
 fascinated with the spot and not only 
 lived^but buried their dead there. No 
 doubt they had their legends and stor- 
 ies regarding its even earlier history 
 and formation, and it is a pity some 
 record of their knowledge has not been 
 handed down to us of this day. As it 
 is, the place is most interesting to the 
 relic , anter, and many a valuable In- 
 dian find has been made around there. 
 T?ut that is another story. 
 
 There is one thing which the trav- 
 eler to Lake Medad cannot fail to note 
 as he walks, rides or drives over the 
 winding road, A short distance be- 
 yond Waterdown he passes over a 
 bridge spanning a swift-running creek, 
 the waters of which are tumbling over 
 the stones in a mad race for their final 
 absorption in Hamilton bay. But a 
 short distance further along the road 
 he crosses another bridge over another 
 creek, whose waters are turned in the 
 opposite direction and seek their out- 
 let in Lake Medad, Somewhere be- 
 tween these two points is the great 
 ridge; the backbone of the hills, mak- 
 ing the fall north and south. The 
 waters that tumble into the bay 
 have this advantage over the 
 waters flowing into Lake Medad— they 
 remai'i in full view of all the world 
 till they reach the ocean. 
 
 And now gather the children ubout 
 in the dusk of the evening, when 
 creeping shadows grow longer and 
 longer and the world without looks 
 weird and gliost-like, and tell them 
 this, in a deep sepulchral tone and 
 with eyes wide open: The waters flow 
 into the lake and are never seen again. 
 They rush on in high glee, dancing 
 over the stones in the creek bed, 
 sparkling in the bright sunlight, play- 
 ing tag about the little eddies, never 
 thinking for a moment of their ter- 
 rible fate until suddenly they find 
 themselves swallowed up in the lake 
 expanse and can find no way of es- 
 cape. Night comes and the wind 
 jjighs through the marsh trees making 
 uncanny sounds; the Imprisoned 
 
m 
 
 BY MEDAd's marshy SHOKKS 
 
 77 
 
 :l 
 
 i;l' 
 
 INDIAN KELICS. 
 
 1— Clay pipe found at Lake Medad. 
 
 2— Totem pipe. 
 
 3— Totem pipe of death's head. 
 
 4— Brass nug found on 10th conceseion of East Flam- 
 boro, probably received from a French wriest 200 years 
 iigo. 
 
 5 — Iron bracelet, Lake Medad. 
 6 — Fl'nti spear head,,') inches long. 
 7— Heci pipestone necklace, ' *- 
 8— Blue-green glass bead necklace. 
 9— Conch shell necklace. 
 
 bay 
 the 
 id— they 
 world 
 
 n about 
 when 
 er and 
 looks 
 11 them 
 e and 
 ers flow 
 n again, 
 dancing 
 bed, 
 t, play- 
 never 
 eir ter- 
 ley find 
 he lake 
 of es- 
 le wind 
 making 
 trlscned 
 
 waters lap the boggy shore in mourn- 
 .''liI meiancholy; other waters come 
 rushing in, just as they did, thought- 
 le.ss and joyous, and they give way, 
 sinking to the depths, never to be 
 s.'en again. For though Lake Medad 
 takes all the waters it can get it 
 never willingly gives up any, so far 
 as mortal eye can see. Down below 
 somewhere there may be an outlet, 
 and in some dark subterranean pas- 
 sage, some great fissure in the founda- 
 tion rocks of the earth, it may escape, 
 liut to where no one knows. The lake 
 takes and takes, but never gives. 
 
 It has been a popular delusion with 
 many people that to fall into the lake 
 meant sure disappearance for good. 
 'I'liis is not so. Twice In the history 
 iif this generation have the waters 
 tlnre claimed human victims, but in 
 I oth cases the bodies have been yleld- 
 "il up again after a brief period. In 
 loth cases the drowned ones were 
 
 skaters — boys who ventured on the ice 
 when it was not safe. In fact the 
 bog bottom is stable enough to hold 
 tools that have been dropped in by 
 the ice cutters during the winter, and 
 in summer picnic parties go in bath- 
 ing along the shore without danger 
 of disappearance in the soft bottom. 
 
 When the water-power lur the 
 Waterdown niill.s began to fail some 
 years ago it was thought by the 
 Waterdown peojile that if they dug a 
 cf.nal from Lake Medad to the Water, 
 down creeks they would be sure to 
 have a perpetual and efficient water 
 supply. So sure were they that the 
 canal was dug and opened, but the 
 vain hope of the men who did the 
 work was never realised. At flrst there 
 was a great rush of water and every- 
 thing went well, but very soon th«' 
 lake level dropped to the level of the 
 bottom of the canal and no trore water 
 came. This showed that though many 
 
irr 
 
 liiir 
 
 78 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 springs and creeks ran into the lake, 
 siifficient to keep it full, It would 
 stand no large draw off and was quite 
 wt 11 able to dispose of all its own 
 surplus in its own way, whatever that 
 way Is. And so the Waterdown people 
 were disappointed and had to turn to 
 steam-power for their salvation and 
 the lake saved Itself. It has to give 
 up some of itself in the winter time, 
 thcugh, for there is no ice to the farm- 
 ers round those parts like Lake Me- 
 dad ice, and there are busy scenes 
 there during the ice harvest season. 
 
 • * • 
 
 And now, in this day, when every- 
 
 thing in the shape of natural 
 beauty is sacrificed for the sake of 
 utility, some utilitarian has discover- 
 ed that the bog of the lake is rich with 
 Portland cement marl, and that there 
 is enormous wealth in It. A Hamilton 
 ccmpany has been formed and there 
 is promise that at some day not far 
 distant the spoi, so long saved In its 
 natural beauty, will become the seat 
 of an industry; that the hand of the 
 capitalists, careless of everything save 
 wealth, will destroy the last traces of 
 original loveliness about the place and 
 that the Lake Medad of old will live 
 only as a memory. 
 
 J . B. W. 
 
 11 
 
 ijl 
 
 1— Bone necltlace. Dr. McGregor. 
 
 2 — Tally bone, Dr. McGregor. 
 
 3— Grooved neclclaco bono, G. Allison. 
 
 4— Indian scalps, Lake Medad, G. Allison. 
 5 -Grey granite axes, early make, Dr. McGregor. 
 6 — Perforated granite axes, later make, Dr. Mc- 
 Gregor. 
 
 7— Conch shell, breastplate. Dr. McGregor. 
 
 8— Curiously marked slate gorget, or breast 
 
 plate. Dr. McGregor. 
 9— Highly polished grueu slate totem, Dr. Mc- 
 Gregor. 
 10— Hunting arrowhead. 
 11— War arrowhead. 
 
 
natural 
 
 sake of 
 
 1 discover- 
 
 3 rich with 
 
 that there 
 
 Hamilton 
 and there 
 ly not far 
 .ved in its 
 e the seat 
 md of the 
 thing save 
 t traces of 
 
 place and 
 a will live 
 
 . E. W. 
 
 i:^ 
 
 ^i) 
 
 Gregor. 
 )t, or breast 
 
 tern, Dr. Mc- 
 
 
 
 
 
 y. 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 r 
 
m 
 
 Hh 
 
 ! 
 
 * 1 
 
 No w: 
 The V 
 
 And t 
 ■s 
 
 Of brf 
 c 
 
 Save 
 t 
 
 \\ 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 try's h 
 ligible 
 these t 
 miglit 
 multitii 
 times t 
 Indian 
 tribes : 
 nature, 
 acres, 
 life, fu 
 strange 
 iug- fro: 
 — forg-oi 
 «ere t 
 tories? 
 Hwers 1 
 ijabblin 
 ping w 
 and m< 
 trees ai 
 liiem. 
 
 La Sa 
 
'•»> 
 
 lai 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 AT-TI-WAN-DAK-O-NI-A 
 
 No wigwam smoke is curling there; 
 The very earth is scorched and bare, 
 And they pause and listen to catch a 
 
 sound 
 Of breathing life, but there comes not 
 
 one. 
 Save the fox's bark and the rabbits 
 
 bound. 
 
 — Whittier. 
 
 * * * 
 
 T-TI-WAN-DAR- 
 O-NI-A, thou land 
 of the fierce and 
 warlike At-ti- 
 
 vv a n - d a, r - o n, 
 where are thy 
 children now, and 
 who can write 
 their nation's his- 
 tory? If thy 
 Kreat forest trees, 
 [with proudly wav. 
 ling tops with- 
 IstaiuMng tempest 
 'blasts of many 
 centuries, could 
 only speak their 
 story it would 
 enrich the coun- 
 try's history. Could but a voice intel- 
 ligible be given the lapping waves of 
 these thy rnlghty inland waters, tales 
 might be told to feed the fancy of « 
 multitude. Tales of life in days and 
 times unknown, unhuard of; befort^ the 
 Indian age, when people* of great 
 tribes now extinct both in name and 
 nature, peopled thy broad and fertile 
 acres, lived out their little spans of 
 life, fulfilled their missions in t.ie 
 .strange economy of nature and pass- 
 ing from the stage of action were lost 
 —forgotten. At-ti-wan-dai-o-ni-a, wiio 
 were thy peoples? What their his- 
 tories? And At-tl-wan-dar-o-nt-a an- 
 swers not, save by the unintelligilii(> 
 babblings of her many brooks, the lap- 
 jiing waves along her sandy shores 
 and mournful mu;5ic from her giant 
 trees as tempest blasts rush through 
 
 ihem. 
 
 * * * 
 
 La Salle, the lion hearted, brave ex- 
 
 plorer, has told of At-ti-wan-dar-o-ni-a. 
 He penetrated its forests, sailed over 
 it« waters, and, if history be correct, 
 actually came to Lake Medad, where 
 he found a great encampment of its 
 people. The early Jesuit missionaries 
 followed and spent long winters in its 
 great forests, learned the native 
 language and listened to the old men 
 of the tribes repeat the stories of their 
 race as handed to them by their fath- 
 ers. They listened to the legends, too; 
 stories of history then grown so anci- 
 ent that even the Indians themselves 
 in telling them would not vouch at all 
 times for their truthfulness. Tliey had 
 no written language, these early peo- 
 ples; no way of saving records but by 
 the telling of the story from father to 
 son, thus down from generation to gen- 
 eration until all was lost, save the 
 scraps gathered by the Jesuits and 
 other early pioneers and saved by them 
 in writing. What we know now of 
 them can be but guessed at by the 
 relics found within their graves. They 
 are a race almost entirely lost to his- 
 tory. 
 
 « « * 
 
 Authentic records tell us that these 
 AL-ti-wan-dar-o-ni-a were a mighty 
 race. They peopled all the land with- 
 in Niagara's fruitful peninsula and 
 many miles upon the American side. 
 It is told that they were warlike, too, 
 and battled much with tribes upon 
 the west and sonth of their lands. Yet 
 they were peaceful with their north- 
 ern and eastern ri3lghbors, the Hurons 
 and Iroquois, and would not enter into 
 conflict with them, gaining for them- 
 selves by this the name of neutrals. 
 Though the Hurons and Iroquois were 
 always at war, it was an understood 
 tiling that when they met upon At-tl- 
 wan-dar-on territory both were safe 
 and no fighting was to be done. But 
 an evil day came to the Neutrals. They 
 had practically exterminated a Michi- 
 gan tribe of Indians in one of their 
 western raids early in the sixteen'th 
 century, and in a very few years were 
 
 J 
 
w 
 
 83 
 
 VVEXTWORTII LANDMARKS 
 
 EARLY JESUIT MAP. 
 
 treated to the same fate themselves. 
 The Irociuois tiecame jealous of them 
 and seizing as an excuse for hostili- 
 ties the fact that the Neutrals had 
 granted some favor to the Hurons, 
 made war upon them, practically wip- 
 ing- them out of existence, at any rate 
 as an important power. It was thus 
 in Indian life that each gave place to 
 each, not in a peaceful way but with 
 war and bloodshed. It was thus that 
 the wind-dried, sun-scorched At-ti- 
 wan-dar-on hunters and warriors of the 
 peninsula came to be regarded by the 
 Indian orators of that day as the d&ad 
 leaves of the forest, withered and scat, 
 tered abroad. As they had given, so 
 they took the inhuman, horrible tor- 
 tures inflicted upon them by their con- 
 querors with stoical indifference, en- 
 during without a murmur the pains of 
 tortiient until, when overcome by sheer 
 exhaustion, they would fall or become 
 Insensible and a murderous stone or 
 tllnt tomahawk would cleave their 
 skulls. 
 
 * « • 
 
 The old map printed herewith forms 
 
 a link between the busy present and 
 long-forgotten past about this neigh- 
 borhood. It is a map made by the 
 Jesuits and the comments upon it in 
 the Fr.^nch tongue are those of these 
 early workers for the church. There 
 is Lake Erie at the bottom, the wind- 
 ing Gi-and river to the left, the rush- 
 ing Niagara to the right and Lake On- 
 tario on the north, with Hamilton bay 
 nestling in between. The comments 
 regarding land and hunting are very 
 explicit. In the lower left hand cor- 
 ner, so the map says, there is excellent 
 land, while higher up it is inclined to 
 be low and marshy. Away up again 
 —possibly the land beneath the Flam- 
 boro heights— the comment is fairly 
 good land. There is but one villag<.' 
 marked on the map and it occupies a 
 position suspiciously close to Lake 
 Medad. A comment says that ii was 
 at this village and al)out it that then^ 
 was grand hunting, and this can lie 
 readily believed, for game of all sorts 
 —big and little — would naturally seek 
 Its quiet sides at all seasons as a 
 watering place. 
 
■PVH 
 
 A r--|r-\VA\-DAR-()-Nl-A 
 
 S3 
 
 y 
 
 present and 
 
 this neigh- 
 ide by the 
 
 upon it in 
 >se of these 
 irch. There 
 n, the wind- 
 't, the rush- 
 id Lake On- 
 amilton bay 
 e comments 
 ng are very 
 t hand cor- 
 i is excellent 
 5 inclined to 
 ly up again 
 h the Flam- 
 at is fairly 
 
 one village 
 t occupies a 
 e to Lial<e 
 
 that ii was 
 it that thert^ 
 his can be 
 ; of all sorts 
 iturally seek 
 ?asons as a 
 
 \y\:>\ 
 
 
 M 
 
 A 
 
 [\- 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 !,\ 
 
 -^s^ 
 
 h ,1' 
 
 -•-'^'. 
 
 1, ^^- - •" t£ 
 
 r, 
 
 ,;3Ss?i)-t. 
 
 ■"■' Lift! 
 
 i/ii', 1, \\m',P', -^s 
 
 
 -^s 
 
 ^^:?^ 
 
 trp=^ 
 
 '/;/ 
 
 
 VlU ' 
 
 .^, / 
 
 ll > 
 
 ?/ '* <;' <'il 
 
 Q 
 
 Q 
 
 K 
 O 
 <; 
 ►J 
 
 
 IHIi 
 
84 
 
 WENTWOKTIl LANDMARKS 
 
 .' I , 
 
 IB 
 
 I ■ i; 
 
 III ) 
 
 III ^ 
 
 h' 
 
 This bank in which t)he dead were laid 
 Was sacred when Its soil was ours; 
 
 But now the wheat is green and high 
 On clods that hid the warrior's breast, 
 
 A.nd scattered in the furrows lie 
 The weaponar of his rest. 
 
 No man can know Indian history 
 without a reference to the rel'cs of the 
 Indian age. No county in Canada is 
 more prollflc of Indian relics than this 
 county of Wentworth, and no part of 
 the county furnishes better results for 
 the relic hunters than that part now 
 known as the Flamboros and Beverly. 
 Not every man has a taste for relic 
 hunting; with some men It is a mania. 
 Some of the men with the mania live 
 about the village of Waterdown and 
 they have learned to love their pastime 
 by their visits to Lake Medad and its 
 vicinity. There are relic collections in 
 and about Waterdown that are worth 
 thousands of dollars and will be in- 
 valuable historically before many 
 years. For it must be remembered 
 that as the years have gone by the 
 old Indian mementos have been un- 
 earthed rapidly and valuable finds are 
 even now few and far between. Geo. 
 Allison is one of the most enthusiastic 
 of Waterdown's Indian relic hunters 
 and his collection is one well worth 
 Bpendlng many hours with. Dr. Mc- 
 Gregor, the warden of Wentworth 
 county, is another enthusiastic collect- 
 or, but he has never yet had time to 
 get his collection in shape. The late 
 Luke Mullock, who began collecting in 
 1865, left another large and Interesting 
 collection at the time of his death four 
 years ago. 
 
 * * « 
 
 But why write of the Indians as a 
 race that is past and dead? Men in 
 this day are interested only in person.s 
 and things that appear as in the pres- 
 ent. Let the vision of the past en- 
 shroud you until it lives again in your 
 minds as an active present. Come in 
 ycur vision to Lake Medad, and, un- 
 noticed, watch. This is the year 1600 
 and the face of the virgin earth is as 
 yet practically unchanged by mon's 
 hand or design. A great forest sur- 
 rounds the little lake, and in the forest 
 shade roam the animals of the earth- 
 deer, bears, wolfs, foxes — all these and 
 others too. The waters of the laki= 
 sparkle in the sunlight and in its clear 
 depths reflects the passing cloud, the 
 faces of the Indians who come to ml) 
 it of its abundance, or of the many ani- 
 
 mals who clamber down the rocky 
 paths to reach its edge and slake their 
 thirst. Back from the lake and on 
 the hill overlooking it from the nortti. 
 east are habitations. Not houses but 
 teepees, conical shaped and made of 
 skins roughly sewn together witli 
 needles such as are shown In the pii( - 
 ture. In semi-circle the teepees ai>- 
 placed, just as the crosses on the pit - 
 ture show, the only opening being that 
 toward the lake. It is early fall and 
 all the villagers are home. The child- 
 ren play around upon the grass in 
 nature's garb, the men, too, play and 
 nature's garb aiorns their persons alsn. 
 But their play is not the play of child- 
 ren. They are gamesters, and in theii- 
 Indian games they risk all they pos- 
 sess, even sometimes themselves. 
 Where did they get their gaming 
 tendencies? No one knows. Mayhaji 
 'twas born inherent In the human race 
 frcm Adam's day. At any rate tli ■ 
 Indian was no worse, no better, than 
 the white man who followed him, in 
 this particular. 
 
 * * * 
 
 The women are the only ones at 
 work. They are also the only ones 
 who boast of clothing, wearing about 
 their thighs a skin or woven coverin^^ 
 showing the Inherent shame of Mother 
 Eve, come down through many cen- 
 turies. They are seated on the ground 
 and before them are great rough stones 
 hollowed out in the center — mortars ii 
 which the corn is ground and whicli 
 the picture Illustrates. (Mr. Allison 
 has a curiosity in his front yard a; 
 Waterdown to-day in the shape of a 
 great stone about five feet long and a 
 foot thick with several mortar holes in 
 it. It is a relic of this Indian villajr^ 
 locality.) It comes evening in the vil- 
 lage and the fires are lighted. Why? 
 To keep away the prowling wolf, the 
 bear and other animals. The sun goes 
 down, its last light glinting througli 
 the forest trees; shadows lengthen, and 
 in an hour the mournful murmur of 
 the night breeze is heard gently sway- 
 ing the tree tops and fanning th'' 
 flames of the camp fires. The moon 
 comes up In all her silver glory, th. 
 stars shine brightly, blinking in the 
 faces of the Indian children lying on 
 their backs and gazing heavenward in 
 infantile wonderment at the grand dis. 
 play. "What are these lights?" they 
 ask of the old men, and vhe old m^n 
 answer that they are the lights of the 
 gr^at spirit land. 
 
A r-Tr-\VAN-I>AK-()-\I-A 
 
 85 
 
 the rocky 
 slake their 
 le and im 
 
 the norlli- 
 houses bin 
 made "! 
 •ther witli 
 In the pic- 
 eepees arc 
 Dn the pii- 
 
 belng that 
 ly fall and 
 
 The child- 
 grass in 
 >, play ami 
 ersons alsn. 
 ly of chlld- 
 nd in theii 
 I they pos- 
 themselvep. 
 ir gam in 4 
 Mayha]! 
 luman rate 
 y rate th ■ 
 )etter, than 
 ed him, in 
 
 y ones at 
 only ones 
 iring about 
 !n covering. 
 B of Mother 
 many cen- 
 the ground 
 ough stones 
 -mortars in 
 and which 
 Ir. Alliscm 
 nt yard at 
 shape of a 
 long and a 
 tar holes in 
 iian villafT' 
 in the vit- 
 ted. Why .' 
 g wolf, the 
 he sun goes 
 ng througli 
 [igthen, and 
 murmur ot 
 ently sway- 
 fanning tht' 
 The moon 
 glory, th' 
 ing in thf 
 ■n lying on 
 .venward in 
 grand dis. 
 :hts?" they 
 he old m-r-n 
 ghts of the 
 
 A yelping howl soun^ .rough the 
 still air, making the .dren shiver. 
 tlif mothers start and the men look 
 that their weapons aie at hand. It is 
 the wolf's snarling cry. The nlgnt 
 hirds skim swiftly through tht; 
 phadowed air; they call i. each other 
 from the trees. There Is a crackling of 
 branches down by the lake on its 
 farther side and it tells of some wild 
 animal disputing human rights to 
 forest territory, and coming to the lake 
 for water. The strange, uncanny 
 sounds of night; the paradox of forest 
 stillness. Sleep comes and with it rest, 
 except to him who watches. And this 
 is At-tl-wan-dar-o-nl-a, in miniature 
 and In a single phase of life, so many 
 sided within Its borders. 
 * * * 
 
 Another day comes — another phase 
 ot life In At-tl-wan-dar-o-nl-a. There 
 are rushlngs to and fro within the vil- 
 lage. With paint stones rubbing the 
 men, the warriors are decorating their 
 faces. The chiefs are assembling, the 
 war chant is being sung. A foreign 
 .southern tribe Is pressing toward the 
 borders of their land and the signal 
 for conflict has come. The days of 
 fasting are over, the chiefs come out 
 and lead their forces off, through for- 
 est, up hill and down, along valleys, 
 free and easy In march while In their 
 own territory, catlike and wary when 
 following strange and unknown paths 
 in the land of the enemy. They meet 
 in conflict. With stone tomahawk and 
 cruel flint-headed war arrow they bat- 
 tle. Here Is a brave In whose breast 
 an arrow shaft sticks. An At-ti-wan- 
 dar-o-nl rushes up, pulls it out — head- 
 less. The jagged flint head remains 
 within the wound to hurry deatli. 
 
 Scalps are torn from heads of dying 
 warriors, prisoners are taken. The 
 enemy routed. Homeward they go, re. 
 joiclng in victory, and long before 
 they reach the confines of the peaceful 
 Medad village the children, women 
 and old men have heard and hurry out 
 to meet them. For days the song of 
 victory fills the air and echoes from 
 the hills. It Is a mournful sound, this 
 cry of rejoicing, to the sad-hearted 
 prisoners. They know some awful fate 
 awaits them and they steel their brave 
 hearts to meet it. Here Is an At-M- 
 wan-dar-o-ni-a mother whose only son 
 was slain In the battle. She picks out 
 the noblest of the prisoners as a sac- 
 rifice for his death. The stake !s 
 driven, the pile of tinder wood piled 
 high around it. Thel day comes. From 
 his confinement lashed to a tree and 
 guarded by the ever watchful braves 
 the captive is led forth. He is bound 
 to the stake and the old woman, with 
 glowing, heated stones, singes his 
 limbs. He is spit upon, cruel thrusts 
 are made into his quivering body 
 with sharp spear points. Hours pass 
 and still the preliminary torture con- 
 tinues. Blood streams from the cap- 
 tive's many wounds, but cry out he 
 will not. With face firm set and rigid 
 form he stands voiceless and emotion- 
 less. At last the fire brand is applied; 
 quick shoot the flames about his weak- 
 ening form, the sickening odor of his 
 burning flesh seems but to add a fury 
 more Intense to the flendlshness of his 
 tormentors. His head bends forward, 
 and as it does the tomahawk crashes 
 into his skull and all is over. Thus 
 passes another day, another phase of 
 life In fair At-ti-wan-dar-o-nl-a. 
 
 J. E. W. 
 
 
 PESTLE AND MORTAh (Two Feet in Diameter). 
 O. A'llison Collection. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 '•; 
 
 INDIAN IIKI.ICS ANP UKMAINS 
 
 ,') 
 
 ! 1 
 
 i i 
 
 i^l 
 
 "A warrior race, but they are gone, 
 With their old forests, wide anr] 
 deep; 
 And we have built our honits upon 
 
 Fields where their generations sleep. 
 
 Their rivers slake our thirst at noon, 
 
 Upon their fields our harvest waves; 
 
 Our lovers woo beneath their moon — 
 
 Ah, let us spare, at leasit, their 
 
 graves." 
 
 —Bryant. 
 * « * 
 
 When we left At-ti-wan-dar-o-nl-a 
 and its people last week there was war 
 In the land. Victory had come to the 
 At-tl-wan-dar-ong, and the savagery 
 of the people was being shown in the 
 torment to which they subjected their 
 captives. It reads unreal; pity it were 
 not. All that has been written, and 
 more, but poorly describes that bar- 
 barity characteristic of the Indian na- 
 ture. But there are other phases of 
 life In At-ti-wan-dar-o-nl-a more pleas- 
 ant to view, happier to describe. It is 
 winter and deep snows cover mother 
 earth. The forest trees are bare and 
 the Indians have deserted their teepees 
 and taken to the lodge houses. These, 
 built of bark and i^klns, were the rudest 
 sort of protection from the cold, and 
 in them lived the population of the vil- 
 lage. Through those long winter 
 months the men hunt and the women 
 and men, too, spend their idle time 
 making amulets, totems and other 
 trinkets. The men are fond of smoking, 
 and their time is spent largely in shap- 
 ing stone pipes and drilling out their 
 stems. It is a time of peace within 
 the village and also a time of suffer- 
 ing. There are no stovepipes in 
 the rude lodge house, and from end to 
 end the air is heavily laden with 
 pungent smoke from the several fires 
 smouldering on the hard ground floor. 
 Eyes may smart, but there is no help 
 for it unless the suffering one Is will- 
 ing to rush out In the cold, icy air and 
 there endure another sort of suffering. 
 Sometimes the snows are too deep for 
 hunting, and poverty, even to starva- 
 tion, comes to the camp. Then again 
 the life of filth and dirt breeds pestil- 
 
 onte, and smallpox carries off Its vic- 
 tims by the hundred, sometimes de- 
 vastating every lodge within the na- 
 tion's limits. No happy life is theirs 
 at times like these. And this is another 
 phase of At-ti-wan-dar-on life. 
 
 Then came the Jesuits, following 
 close upon the French explorers, and 
 the end of Indian life drew near. For 
 a glittering glasg bead the red miui 
 would give up in exchange furs and 
 skins of greatest value. His eye was 
 always for the bauble, and he had no 
 real appreciation of commercial val- 
 ues. In a recent address at a Cana- 
 dian club banquet Sanford Evans 
 talked of men being subdued by 
 nature. In truth this could be said 
 of Indian character. Of nature the 
 Indian asked nothing more than he 
 needed for himself and each day's sub- 
 sistence. He was content to let the 
 forest remain, the treasures of the 
 rocks lie uncovered, the cataract run 
 on unharnessed, the fields continue in 
 almost virgin fertility. His present 
 needs supplied, it mattered little to 
 him what happened or what came 
 after. When civiliaation did appear his 
 heart was broken. He was a remnant 
 of another time, his life wrapped up in 
 memories of other and to him far bet- 
 ter days. English succeeded French, 
 and the Indian, robbed of his lands, 
 was placed upon reserves or driven 
 with the wild animals of his native 
 forests awiay north and west where 
 civilisation's march had not disturbed 
 the origiiial face of things, and where 
 he might die as he had lived, and as 
 his fathers, too, had done before him, 
 a savage, free and unfettered. In how 
 many a white man's heart there some- 
 times comes that Indian yearning for 
 freedom; for a getting away from the 
 conventionalities prescribed in civilisa. 
 tion's law, binding men down by rule 
 and precept to a course of life to them 
 distasteful and unnatural. 
 * * * 
 
 The landscape on another page is but 
 a short distance from the Indian vil- 
 
off Its vir- 
 ptimes de- 
 In the na- 
 e Is theirs 
 is another 
 Ife. 
 
 following 
 lorers, anrl 
 near. For 
 i red mnu 
 5 furs and 
 la eye was 
 he had no 
 ercial val- 
 it a Cana- 
 )rd Evans 
 ibdued by 
 Id be said 
 lature the 
 e than he 
 day's suit- 
 to let the 
 •es of the 
 itaract run 
 continue in 
 is present 
 id little to 
 fhat came 
 appear his 
 a remnant 
 ipped up in 
 im far bet- 
 led French, 
 his lands, 
 or driven 
 his native 
 ivest where 
 it disturbed 
 and where 
 .'ed, and as 
 before him, 
 ■ed. In how 
 there some- 
 earning for 
 ly from the 
 I in clvilisa- 
 iwn by rule 
 life to them 
 
 page is but 
 Indian vll- 
 
 — f 
 
 INDIAN UEMCS AND UKMAINS 
 
 lifiiiM; ■" 
 
 
 
 «7 
 
^. 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-S) 
 
 V^^ 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 1^ 128 
 
 1 2.^ 
 
 m 
 
 
 — 1 '-'^ III ''^ 
 
 
 « 6" 
 
 ► 
 
 
 o^ 
 
 fliotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 >>■ 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STRUT 
 
 WiBSTER, NY. M5S0 
 
 (716) S73-4S03 
 
// 
 
 
 
 i 
 
88. 
 
 WENTWORTH I.AXDMAKKS 
 
 ! iliil ■ 
 
 ii 
 
 1— Bone and shell necklace. 
 
 Q— Colored glass necklace. 
 
 3— OlasB necklace. 
 
 4— Perfect specimen soapstone pipe. 
 
 5— Colored fliut Hpear headi. 
 6— Biuall totem pipe. 
 
 7 to lO—Speuiniens of pottery patterns showing reg- 
 ular designs. 
 
 IV I 
 
 ■ ! 
 
 lagre shown last week. It is quite near 
 to Lake Medad and has been at one 
 time a great buryingr ground among 
 the At-ti-wan-dar-ons. They had queer 
 ideas, these Indians, in the burying of 
 their dead. When the spirit of the 
 brave fled from its clay prison, that 
 clay was allowed to remain where it 
 was in the teepee, and for weeks and 
 even months the relatives would con- 
 tinue their mourning in the teepee un- 
 til the stench from the body compelled 
 Its removal. They had no respect for 
 the flesh, but adored the bones of their 
 dead, and when at last the bodies were 
 taken from the teepees they were 
 pkced in mid air, strapped to planks 
 suspended between tall poles, far 
 erough away from the ground to keep 
 away wild animals who would destroy 
 the bones and beautifully convenient 
 for the eagles, crows and other car- 
 rion birds who would pick those bones 
 clean and leave them to be whitened 
 by the air, sun and rain. After this 
 would come the great burial time. 
 The bones of many a brave would be 
 
 gathered in a heap and carried with all 
 care and solemnity to the burial field, 
 there to be interred. In with the bones 
 were buried the weapons of the war- 
 rior, his wampun strings, his totem 
 pipes, his beads, and other trinkets. 
 Mother earth thus covered his remains 
 and they saw not the light of day 
 again till the relic hunter, to whom 
 even graves are not sacred, found 
 them out. It is a queer thing, too, 
 how the discoveries of these Indian 
 ossuaries are made. The plow has un. 
 covered many a pile, particularly in 
 dry seasons when the steel cuts deep 
 in the soil. Perhaps one of the most 
 peculiar unearthings, and one giving 
 positive proof of antiquity, was made 
 by one of the Waterdown collectors 
 some few years ago. The collector 
 was out looking for relics when he 
 came across a great tree recently 
 blown down and torn out by the roots. 
 In th« hole where the trunk had been 
 he began digging out of curiosity, and 
 soon unearthed an ossuary, finding 
 many bones and many relics. The tree 
 
INDIAN UEI.ICS AND REMAINS 
 
 89 
 
 ihowlng r«R- 
 
 d with all 
 irial field, 
 the bones 
 
 the war- 
 ils totem 
 
 trinkets, 
 s remains 
 of day 
 to whom 
 d, found 
 tilng, too, 
 ie Indian 
 nr has un. 
 ularly in 
 cuts deep 
 
 the most 
 ne giving 
 nras made 
 
 collectors 
 collector 
 
 when he 
 recently 
 
 the roots. 
 
 had been 
 Dsity, and 
 finding 
 The tree 
 
 is believed to have been all of 160 
 years old, and bow long it was before 
 it began to push its little leaves above 
 the earth that the bones were burled 
 san only be guessed at. 
 
 It has often been remarked that 
 many of the relics found about Water- 
 down are of stone and shell uncommon 
 
 world's history discovered the rich cup- 
 per mines there and worked them. 
 From these Indians would come the 
 stones :ind shells, and the At-tl-wan- 
 dar-ons would spend their spare time 
 shaping them with rude tools. It has 
 also been a matter for much conjec- 
 ture how they managed to drill the 
 holes of the pipe stem for several 
 inches through the solid stone. Re- 
 
 ^"t'lttit t mi l y lt i f*"^imitit 
 
 1, 2 and 3— Copper cbarms. 
 5, 6 and 7— Totem pipeu. 
 
 in these parts, and the question has 
 always been. Where did the At-tl- 
 wan-dar-ons get them? The most 
 probable solution of the problem is that 
 they were secured in trade or In battle 
 with the Indians of the south and .west 
 of the continent. It is known that the 
 southern Indians— those who inhabited 
 the land around the Oulf of Mexico 
 and had plenty of the famous conch 
 shells, came as far north as Lake Su- 
 perior. Indians at some stage of the 
 
 4— Bone needle. 
 8— Metal flsb book. 
 
 Bf«rch has pretty well proven that this 
 was done with pome hollow, hardened 
 leed, fine sand and water, the » reed 
 being used as a drill and the sharp 
 aand to cut the stone. The process was 
 necessarily slow, and It must have 
 taken months to drill the stems of 
 some of the pipes they made. 
 
 The Indian love of finery and 
 baubles was quickly seized upon by 
 
s 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 ij I 
 
 90 
 
 WKNTWORTll LANDMARKS 
 
 the French explorers and traders, and 
 there can be no doubt but that the 
 cheap gloBB beads found In many of 
 the ossuaries were accepted in ex- 
 change for articles thousands of times 
 their value In the European and other 
 markets. These beads must have been 
 made in France specially for the In- 
 dian trade, as from their pattern, size 
 and shape they never could have been 
 popular in the old world. They are of 
 the commonest glass, some striped in 
 many colors, others plain. Some are 
 round and others long and tubular. 
 The Jesuit missionaries left their Im. 
 print and the memory of the Nazarene 
 there, too, for on some totem pipes the 
 shape of a rude cross is to be found 
 chipped in the stone, and brass rings 
 with the cross on have also been found. 
 
 One of the most gruesome finds ever 
 made near Medad was that of a skull 
 with a portion of the scalp ard hair 
 clinging to it. Mr. Allison was the 
 finder. He was digging one day in an 
 old ossuary, when he discovered an 
 old metal pot turned upside down. 
 On raising this he found beneath the 
 skull, scalp and hair, along with some 
 spearheads and other relics. Another 
 curious incident In relic hunting oc- 
 curred to Dr. McGregor. One day 
 several years ago he found a broken 
 pipe. The stem was gone and a pecu- 
 liar thing about the bowl was that it 
 had some tobacco leaf in it. Several 
 years afterward another collector was 
 looking at the doctor's broken bowl 
 and remarked that he had the stem 
 for it. Sure enough the stem was 
 produced from his collection, fitting 
 the break in the bowl exactly. It had 
 been found at a different time and in 
 a different ossuary. 
 
 From the southern Indians the At- 
 ti-wan-dar-ons most likely learned all 
 they knew of pottery making and they 
 have left some rude specimens in clay 
 of the work they did. Very few per- 
 fect ^lay bowls are now found, they 
 being most of them broken by the 
 plows when they are turned over. The 
 picture which appears at the end of this 
 article represents a very recent find 
 in the sands of Hamilton Beach. 
 It was unearthed by some workmen in 
 excavating for the foundations of a 
 house early this spring, and from its 
 apitearance looks as if it might have 
 
 been used as an Idol. Many of the 
 etone totems found are very beauti- 
 fully polished and well made. They 
 were used by families as tokens of 
 family connection and distinction. 
 Nearly all the bone beads and breast 
 oniuments found are beautifully pol- 
 ished and this can have been done 
 only liy constant contact with the 
 Liuro skin of the wearers. 
 
 Following is another sketch from 
 the Spectator's rorrespondont, Lan- 
 tern, on his second visit to Lake Me- 
 dad. J. E. W. 
 
 My second visit to the lake was 
 perhaps a few years later. Then, 
 without the aid of guides, the Thomp- 
 son, B'ce and Gulp boys and my broth- 
 er Robert and myself, made the ex- 
 cursion alone. On a beautiful May 
 morning we all met at Fort Stanlx. 
 (This place may not be familiar to 
 many of your readers.) Owing to some 
 clearings that had been made on lot 
 No. 2, we experienced much difficulty 
 in getting on the right trail, but after 
 many unsuccessful efforts we at last 
 discovered our landmark — the tree on 
 the rock. From thence on we made up 
 for lost time; but on reaching the 
 borders of the cliff or quarry we failed 
 to strike the proper entrance, but fin- 
 ally struck one, which, with the same 
 difnculties of the former, we had to 
 overcome. We were well rewarded, 
 hcwever, as it was the upper landing, 
 then so called. The wharf was a fal- 
 len cedar like the other, but projecting 
 farther out into the lake. The scene 
 from it was more beautiful than the 
 other, a49 from it almost the entire 
 surface of the lake was presented to 
 our view. After gazing on its unrip- 
 pled surface, watching numerous flocks 
 of wild ducks swiftly swimming to the 
 farther shores, we began fishing. We 
 had a supply of hooks, lines and bait, 
 and our next work was to get poles — a 
 rather hard job, as the only jack-knife 
 In the crowd wa« an old one, and 
 nearly worn out at that. 
 
 However, we were soon all out on 
 the log as far as we dare go. Then 
 the fun commenced. As fast as the 
 hook reached the water a sunflsh was 
 secured. Very soon our bait was all 
 gone, and large strings of very little 
 Hunfish, one or two small perch and a 
 
Tni 
 
 INDIAN KEI.ICS ANH REMAINS 
 
 9' 
 
 Bhiner was our oatch. We were proud 
 boys, returning to our startingr point, 
 happy, but tired and hungry. Granny 
 Rice cheered us when she aslced us in 
 and gave us all a well-buttered potato 
 cake. Did my readers ever eat oneV 
 If not, let them ask some old Irish- 
 woman to bake one of them, and if she 
 
 has the knack old Granny Rice had 
 they will relish It. 
 
 I think probably some of our folks 
 were glad to see us safely home, aa 
 the yielding treachery of the shores of 
 Lake Medad were widely known and 
 feared. Yet, withal, I never heard of 
 a death or casualty there. 
 
 LANTERN. 
 
 'I,: 
 
 THE LATE LUKE MULLOCK 8 COLLECTION OP MEDAL RELICS. 
 
 1— Conch shell and red pipestone necklace. 
 
 2— Copper finger ring. 
 
 3 and 6— Totem pipes. 
 
 4— Highly poliBhed bona spoon, Ave inches. 
 
 r>— Totem. 
 
 7— White wampum beads. 
 B— Paint stone. 
 9— Hone needle. Ave inches. 
 10— Flint arrow head. 
 
 UNEARTHED AT HAMILTON BEACH. 
 
 iBHuifll 
 
ON THE FLAMBORO PLATEAU 
 
 Picturesque Rock Chapel. J^ A Pilgrimage Through Crooks' 
 Hollow — Once an Industrial Center, Now a Silent Val- 
 ley Filled with Ruins. j» The History of Fool's College. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 KOCK CMAPEL AND VICINITY 
 
 
 --, T IS not likely 
 I that in the whole 
 . of Ontario, and 
 
 ^k perhaps in all Can- 
 
 M^k ada, there is a 
 
 M ^ > ! L space of earth as 
 ^" ^^ small in size as 
 
 ^^^ ^^ Wentworth county 
 ^Hjl m^^ containing the 
 
 ^^^H ^^^k same number 
 ^^^^^ ^^^^L beautiful 
 ^^^^^ — ^^^^^ the same variety 
 of Interesting drives and the same or 
 aa many delighting historic incidents, 
 whether in mere association with the 
 deeds and presence of illustrious men 
 long since dead or In moss-covered, 
 storm-beaten relics of things and times 
 that have been but now are not, save 
 in the memories of grey-headed men 
 and women who, though they exist in 
 the present, have their greatest joy In 
 the long dead past. To the man who 
 l3 fortunate enough to own a horse 
 and rig; to the wheelmen and women; 
 to the pedestrian; to the artist; the 
 camera flend — to everyone fond of na- 
 ture and history, Wentworth county is 
 in nearly every part a veritable mine 
 of enjoyment; and though the days are 
 now shortening and the weather can- 
 not always be depended on, still a 
 drive, ride or walk in almosrt any di- 
 rection from the city will surely lead 
 to some of the points and places of 
 interest. 
 
 And even if it does not do this, the 
 general scenery, the glory of the trees 
 in their autumn foliage, the deep ra- 
 vines with their clear waiter creek bot- 
 toms, fed by the thousands of bubbling 
 springs from the hill sides — these and 
 the Indian summer haze that casts a 
 quietening, misty shade over the 
 farther scenes, all go to make the most 
 pleasant sort of a day's outing. These 
 are the days when the squirrel and 
 chipmunk are most busy, gathering 
 their winter store; these the days when 
 in the golden sunlight great spider- 
 webs float like silver threads, lazily 
 through the air. This is the time when 
 
 to the butternut and walnut trees come 
 the merry nutting parties; this the 
 time when the good-natured farmer has 
 tapped his first cider barrel and is 
 anxious that its contents shall be 
 sampled. In many respects this is the 
 loveliest season of all our seasons, and, 
 perhaps, for that reason, the shortest. 
 It is the gathering-ln time. The barns 
 are fllling up with grain, the pits of 
 potatoes in the fields raise their 
 mounds of roof above the level, with 
 wisps of straw stuck in them for venti- 
 lators. Mother is potting the flowers 
 from the front garden, father is patch, 
 ing up the clap-boards on the sheds 
 and the boys are in the fields husking 
 corn and gathering the late apples. In 
 the marsh the muskrat is building his 
 house, little circles of water among the 
 rush*^, with centers of built-up rush- 
 weed telling of his abode. And all this 
 because — because the end of summer is 
 near; the glories of autumn are even 
 now fading. Some of the hill-side trees 
 have already lost their leafy coverings 
 and their branches stand out against 
 the sky, ragged-looking and uncouth. 
 There are but a few weeks yet and the 
 wind will sigh, the air will thicken, the 
 sun seem to grow cold and winter will 
 
 reign. 
 
 • « * 
 
 On the road between Hamilton and 
 that nestling little village Rock Chapel, 
 or, as it Is vulgularly known. Monkey- 
 town, there is an almost historic 
 curiosity. It is almost historic because 
 of its age and it is a curiosity because 
 of Its peculiar proof of right to his- 
 toric reference. Just before the turn in 
 the winding road that leads directly 
 into the village, and standing on the 
 right of the roadway, are the ruins of 
 an old stone cottage. Nothing but the 
 four walls are now standing, each one 
 with gaping apertures telling where in 
 years long past doors and windows 
 once had place. A few oaken rafters, 
 blackened and weather-beaten, stretch 
 overhead from wall to wall as if to 
 hold them in place, and on either wall 
 
I I, 
 
 I'M' 
 
 91 
 
 WENTWDKTII I.ANDMAItKS 
 
 
 
 ^»it.i -/' 
 
 is*. 
 
 CUUI0U8 OLD COTTAGE UUIN. 
 
 of the north and south, the red brick 
 tiers of former flre-place chimneys are 
 crumbling away. Back of the ruins Is 
 an orchard, sloping down the hillside 
 into the deep ravine below, and in all 
 around there is ample evidence of long 
 disuse. Dozens of squirrels and chip- 
 munks scramble here and there among 
 the loose and fast loosening stones, 
 chattering away and cheekily showing 
 their sharp teeth to the intruder. All 
 the wood about the ruin is blackened 
 and charred. This because one night 
 many years ago the cottage was burn- 
 ed. From the time of the fire it has 
 been deserted, and the curious proof 
 that this intervening period has been 
 a long one is seen in the picture. When 
 the Are occurivd it wiped out every 
 vestige of flooring In the place and the 
 earth beneath became the more appro- 
 priate bottom work for the ruin. Out 
 of the earth in time came a tiny shrub 
 and as year by year passed, sheltered 
 V. Ithin the four »tone walls, it flourish- 
 ed till It became a young tree and its 
 head overtopped the walls surrounding 
 It. Still It grew, till to-day, there 
 stands within that ruin a locust tree 
 more than thirty feet high, with wide- 
 spreading branches. 
 This tree had its earth rest at the 
 
 place where. In the house that was, the 
 cellar stairway began. Another locust, 
 to be more pretentious than its fellow, 
 lodged itself in the old flre-place. Just 
 as if to glory over the downfall of the 
 Are demon in his own home. Some 
 ruthless hand has cut this tree down, 
 but another one is taking its place. In 
 fact, the whole Interior of the four 
 walls is now full of vegetation, and the 
 view It presents, both from the road 
 and upon close inspection, is decidedly 
 picturesque. In one place the bricks 
 of the chimney-place come in the way 
 of the locust tree branch. The locust 
 branch did not change the course of Its 
 growth, and to-day it reaches out far 
 beyond the chimney wall, having push, 
 ed the bricks from its pathway, turn- 
 ing them right and left and forcing Its 
 way through. 
 
 There are not many people around 
 those parts now who know much of the 
 old cottage. As a child, one farmer, 
 now forty-flve years old, can recall 
 having played about In it, and it cer- 
 tainly is much more than half a cen- 
 tury old. The fire occurred more than 
 twenty-flve years ago, and since that 
 time the place has been deserted by 
 man and occupied by nature— a much 
 more lovely occupant. Even the child- 
 
1 
 
 IIOCK criAI'Kr, ANP VICINITY 
 
 95 
 
 r-^J^ 
 
 THK FIKKl'LACK AND THK TIIKK. 
 
 ren around know that Ward Hopkins 
 built the cottage, and they will tell 
 you that at the time of the Are J<ie 
 Anderson and his wife lived In It. 
 That It Is part of the Erb estate Is 
 well known out there, and that It Is 
 owned by two girls and a boy, children 
 of J. S. Hatton, of Toronto, can be 
 sworn to by those who have at differ- 
 ent times leased the land on which It 
 stands. Perhaps there Is nothing more 
 to tell than this. It Is most likely the 
 cottage has no more right to recogni- 
 tion In history than the fact that it Is 
 old and can prove It by the miniature 
 forest within Its ruins. What of It? 
 That Is enough. 
 
 • « • 
 
 It was not called Rock chapel be- 
 cause It was built of stone, but be- 
 cause Its foundation was the solid 
 ledge of rock that Just at that point 
 on the mountain side Juts out to the 
 earth's surface. Thus Is the apparent 
 paradox In connection with the anclert 
 Methodist meeting house cleared away. 
 The chapel, instead of being rock built. 
 
 Ifl of wood, with clap-lioiirdfd eidos that 
 lioaHt and glory In the fact that they 
 have never been painted. Kverybmly 
 has heard of It and thousands of slght- 
 .yeers have viewed It as they drove past 
 over the winding road leading by the 
 .saw mill, llopklp.s' and Webster falls. 
 It doesn't look much — more like a 
 barn than a church, I'ut Its Interest is 
 not In looks. It has a history. The 
 curious one who will trouble himself 
 to get down on hands and knees at the 
 noi theast corner of the old church will 
 find there a stone. Not one of those 
 fancy things with beautifully trimmed 
 front and beveled ednes, such as are 
 seen nowailay.^ on the noi theasi cornera 
 
 
 liiii' 
 
 ■^'To Ye. Ga: 1 C'^ f 
 
 IN liOC'K CHAl'KI,. 
 
 of large and Important buildings, but 
 an ordinary sort of stone, moss-covered 
 and crumbling away. A close exam- 
 ination of the end of the stone will re- 
 veal the almost obliterated figures — 
 1822 — cut In the stone. That means that 
 for 74 years the building has stood on 
 the little hill through the blasts of 
 winter and the heats of summer, and 
 still stands, a double sort of monu- 
 
96 
 
 W K N TWOH Til I. A N DM A l< K S 
 
 ) • 
 
 ment to the cause of Methodism and to 
 the thoroughness of the work done 
 upon it by its builders. If In all the 
 doings of their lives those old fathers 
 were as thorough as In their worlt on 
 the old chapel, no one need for a mo- 
 ment worry about their present con- 
 dition. The reward for such con- 
 tinued good effort could be nothing 
 short of heaven. 
 
 When the Rock chapel was built 
 there was not another church in the 
 country for miles, and for many years 
 the First Methodist church— then a 
 frame building— and Rock chapel en- 
 
 of all kinds on overy Sunday. Then 
 the Methodists got it Hnd had trouble- 
 over it. It was in the time of the split 
 when Wesley Methodists and Metho- 
 dist Eplncopals were at war. The 
 Methodist Episcopals claimed the build, 
 ing, and were bound to have it. The 
 Wesley Methodists were positive the 
 place should be theirs and they were 
 ready to flght fur it. Fight they did 
 t>erfore peace came, and the building 
 was theirs. There came a day when 
 the one side was in the church and 
 the other side outside on the grass. It 
 was a baltle-day. The windows were 
 
 Te-RockChapll 1 
 
 Hi 
 
 joyed the proud distinction of being the 
 only two churches around. The old 
 church out at Rock Chapel was not 
 built specially for the Methodists. It 
 was everyone's meeting-house — the 
 place where Anglican, Baptist, Presby- 
 terian, Methodist or any other might 
 come and hold meetings. That was 
 how ft came to be built. Everyone 
 felt he had a share in It and everyone 
 helped. The timbers were hewn and 
 fitted by hand, and all the other work 
 done In pretty much the same man- 
 ner. It was opened— the finest build- 
 ing for miles around— and for years its 
 walls re-echoed the words of preachers 
 
 stormed from without; they were 
 raised and the enemy would have 
 forced their way in had not the inside 
 party pounded every hand that appear- 
 ed on the window sills or pricked them 
 with penknives till they were glad 
 enough to let go. 
 
 The victory ultimately was with the 
 Wesleyans, and many a good preacher 
 came there to minister to the people. 
 Among them were Revs. Ryerson, 
 James Spencer, W. Jeffers, S. Rose 
 (father of Justice Rose), Francis Cole- 
 man (now residing in Hamilton on the 
 retired list) and many others. Every 
 preacher in those days had a circuit, 
 
J^ 
 
 i.^> 
 
 
 33 
 
 > 
 
 S 
 
 I '. " 
 
 I l' 
 
 
 
 { i 
 
 
 il 
 
fl *l 
 
 111 
 
 f. i 
 
 
 whi 
 
 h«>r 
 
 eh a 
 
 mil 
 
 )iad 
 
 lltt 
 
 (lay 
 
 In I 
 
 met 
 
 Kia 
 
 tier 
 
 ten 
 
 ten 
 
 tlor 
 
 Mo 
 
 Ins 
 
 nlff 
 
 onl; 
 
 hit( 
 
 aio 
 
 Fir 
 
 a V 
 
 not 
 
 his 
 
 of 
 
 the 
 
U<u K I IIAI'KI. ASM \H.I.\irV 
 
 yy 
 
 whlih he covprod w<'»'k after we»'k on 
 hxrHohai Ic. The circuit of the Hock 
 chai>«) district extended over thirty 
 mlle.i, and the preacher there alwayH 
 had plenty of work to do. There was a 
 little Kiillery In the church In thoat- 
 (layfl, since removed, and taking It all 
 in all. It was quite a respectable sort of 
 meetlnK place. W. J, Morden, whose 
 Kiandfather was one of the first set- 
 tlers In that district, at one time at- 
 tended church there, and as a lad at- 
 tended the Sunday school. In connec- 
 tion with the times that were Mr. 
 .Morden'B uncle, an old man, still llv- 
 inff near the church, tells of having one 
 nlsrht borrowed a lumber wagon — the 
 only vehicle In the nelKhborhood— and 
 hitching his team — also the only team 
 aiound— driving all the way to the 
 First Methodist church In the city to 
 a tea meeting. Of course he would 
 not have done It had It not been that 
 his best girl occupied the other half 
 of the lumber wagon seat. That was 
 their big excursion f«»r the .season. 
 
 Finally the church l>ecame too old 
 fashioned, and a new one was planned 
 and erected, but still the old building 
 was not allowed to go unused. The 
 young people of the neighborhood 
 bought It for a song, and up to the 
 present time it Is used for a concert 
 hall, a public meeting-house and n poll- 
 ing booth. The gallery has been done 
 away with, and a second story put on. 
 On the old pillars now hang election 
 posters and directions to voters, and as 
 these thln;7s are seen one cannot help 
 but feel that the place Is degeneratliiK- 
 There are many clup-boards off thf 
 sides, the wind has blown th« shinKles 
 from the roof In spots, while the many 
 broken window panes tell of m'ub'ct. 
 Some day there will be a wlndstitmi — 
 a thunderstorm. The old bulldinK. tli >\ 
 of standing so many years will 11<' 
 down; the lightning will strike It. ant! 
 flames will consume Its dro.xs. It. too, 
 will live only In memory some day. but 
 may that day be afar off. J. K. W 
 
 ^-4i^-.>i5!i.,., 
 
 
 
 
 
 THE ANCIKNT UiSTlLLEKY. 
 
^ r 
 
 I, 
 
 \ 
 
 n . 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 INDUSTRIAL RUINS IN UHOOKS IIUl.LOW 
 
 
 HE Rock Chapel 
 road is by no 
 means depend- 
 ent for celeb- 
 rity solely upon 
 the old cottage 
 ruin and the 
 older church 
 building pictur- 
 ed In the last 
 chapter. It has 
 other glories 
 well worth 
 
 m e n t i o n ins. 
 They will come 
 e of recognition as this 
 While out in 
 
 in for their sha 
 historic story proceeds. 
 the Rock chapel district one would be 
 very foolish to return to the city with- 
 out visiting the falls along the road- 
 side. In traveling along, up hill and 
 down, it will not be noticed particu- 
 larly that the ups are more than the 
 downs, and not until Rock chapel 
 it.self is reached and a glimpse of the 
 city away down in the valley below, 
 lit up in the afternoon sunlight, 
 caught through the trees bordering the 
 ravine edge, will 'it be discovered that 
 the altitude there is away up. Not 
 quite to the heights level, liut pietty 
 near it. In at least three placf^s on the 
 road great deep ravines, with almost 
 perpendicular sides, creep up between 
 the hills and almost touch the road side. 
 Inlets perhaps they were of some great 
 lake in prehistoric days, but now the 
 watercourses of the creeks above and 
 the homes of the wildest sort of wood- 
 land scenery. The first of these creeks, 
 feeling its way through the marshy 
 meadow land and reaching down the 
 easy slope to the ravine edge, is that 
 running through John Borer's property, 
 and making, as It goes tumbling down 
 the rocky ravine end, what is known as 
 the Saw Mill fall. It is easy to get at 
 and well worth looking at. Next along 
 the road and much nearer to Greens- 
 ville is the Hopkins' fall — the deepest 
 one around, the water making a drop 
 
 of 80 feet. All these creeks wiMe at 
 one time in their historv the humes of 
 manufacturing concerns and grist 
 mills. Only one of them is now in 
 use and that Is the one leading to Web- 
 ster's falls, quite near to Greensville. 
 • • * 
 It must have been somewhere near 
 the year 1800 that James Crooks came 
 to this part of the country, and in his 
 wanderings through what is now the 
 county ot Wentworth, came across 
 the ffitile valley of the creek that fed 
 what is now known as Webster's falls. 
 I'fK)ple talk about gold mines being 
 Itonanzas now-a-days. In that day, and 
 to the far-seeing mind of James Crooks 
 the water running through that little 
 valley was the biggest bonanza for 
 miles around, and he at once set to 
 work to acquire the property suriound- 
 Ing it. In time he secured the right of 
 ownership to about 300 acres all around 
 the creek. At a point a short distance 
 west of Greensville that now is and 
 upon the borders of the stream he at 
 once began th(; building up of what he 
 intended was to become the business 
 and commercial center of the county. 
 Mills of all kinds were erected and 
 businesses of all sorts began to boom 
 around the prosperous place, until at 
 one time the locfiting of the county 
 government buildings in that spot was 
 seriously contemplated. Its boom came 
 after that of historic Ancaster, and 
 while it lasted brought thousands of 
 dollars to the pockets of Mr. Crooks, 
 who afterwards became Hon. James 
 Crooks, and to the pockets of his 
 children. Then the water-power which 
 ran all the industries began to fail. 
 Hamilton started in to show what it 
 could do in the way of becoming an 
 Industrial center and the day of the 
 little manufacturing center in the val- 
 ley to the northwest was past. Gradual- 
 ly the place went Into decay, until to- 
 day there is but one industry in opera- 
 tion, all the rest being in various con- 
 ditions of ruin. 
 
INDUSTRIAL RUINS IN CROOKS' HOLLOW 
 
 5 wi-ie at 
 homes of 
 md srist 
 s now in 
 g to Web- 
 jensvir.e. 
 
 here near 
 3oks oamo 
 md in his 
 < now the 
 ne across 
 k that ffcd 
 ter's falls, 
 les bfing 
 t day, and 
 les Crooks 
 that little 
 lanza for 
 ifc set to 
 surround- 
 le right of 
 all around 
 •t distanc';> 
 )vv is and 
 ='am he at 
 if what he 
 5 business 
 le county, 
 cted and 
 to boom 
 ;, until at 
 le county 
 t spot wa.s 
 iQom came 
 ster, and 
 usands of 
 r. Crooks, 
 n. James 
 of his 
 wer which 
 n to fail. 
 V what it 
 oming: an 
 ay of the 
 n the val- 
 Gradual- 
 until tn- 
 r in opera- 
 ,rious con- 
 
 !! 
 
 HTUTT'S I'APEH MILL. 
 
 (Old Darnley Grist Mill). 
 
 Crooks' hollow the place is now call- 
 ed, and its most peculiar historic in- 
 terest consists in its many ruins. One 
 of the first buildings to be erected there 
 was the Darnley grist mill. That was 
 in 1813, and even to-day, though the 
 place Is no longer a grist mill and has 
 been thoroughly remodeled as a paper 
 mill, the stone over the main doorway 
 has chiseled In It the original date of 
 erection — 1813, Just at the close of the 
 war. That mill is now the only one 
 running in Crooks' hollow, J. Stutt & 
 Sons turning out paper there, ami 
 claiming to do a good business. The 
 mill stands right at the roadside, which 
 winds down from Greensville through 
 the hollow and up the long hill on the 
 other side, being lost to sight from be- 
 low behind a heavy clump of trees, 
 and passing on by the old Crooks' resi- 
 dence. The building is a most pic- 
 turesque old one, Its side wall shown 
 in the picture standing up against the 
 edge of the creek, the waters of which, 
 through the low hanging branches of 
 the trees along Its edge can be seen 
 
 CKOOKS' HOLLOW CUKKK. 
 
 breaking into foam as they tumble 
 down a cascade a short distance be- 
 yond. A rustic old bridge spans the 
 creek just at the mill, and it is from 
 this that all sorts of beautiful view.s 
 can be obtained. 
 
 There is another peculiar old mark- 
 ing on the Stutt mill. It is over a 
 large window adjoining the main door, 
 way, and is shown in the cut. The 
 markings are without doubt Masonic, 
 but though Inquiry was made all 
 around the place from old people and 
 young people, no one seemed to know 
 just what they were Intended for. The 
 square and compass and double tri- 
 angle were plainly Masonic, but no one 
 knew why the letter B should have been 
 cut In the stone. It has been suggest- 
 ed that this was intended as the mark 
 of Barton lodge, Hamilton, but though 
 Barton lodge was in existence some 
 years before the old mill was built, 
 there Is no record In the lodge history 
 to show that the Barton men had any- 
 thing to do with the corner or other 
 etcne-laylng of the mill. Another sug- 
 
 it 
 
; 
 
 lo: 
 
 WKN rwoirnr la\i).ma!{|n.s 
 
 jfestlon has been that the stonemascin 
 who put in the stone was a Mason and 
 that he wanted to let the world know 
 the mill was built under proper care. 
 To do it he cut the two Masonic em- 
 blems in the stone and added his own 
 initial, which may stand for Brown, 
 Bosks, Bell or any other fashionable 
 or unfashionable name. Whatever it 
 
 
 MmWWm 
 
 
 . >y\v. 
 
 I'lV 
 
 „N^V 
 
 V- 
 
 ;ir^ 
 
 MASONIC MAKKS. 
 (Stutt'a Mill.) 
 
 Stands for, it has been for year.s tlie 
 cause of much fruitless conjecture, ami 
 even if it has no real significance, is 
 a curio in itself. 
 
 About eleven years ago the old mill, 
 which was turned Into a paper mill in 
 the sixties, was the scene of an ap- 
 palling fataillty. One day the boiler 
 In the engine room exploded, tearing 
 out the old wails and instantly killing 
 one of Mr. Stutt's sons, who was work- 
 ing around at the time. That has been 
 
 the horrible event of Crooks* holluvv, 
 and to-day the Inhabitants use it as a 
 date-mark from and to which to trace 
 the times of other events of less im- 
 portance. Everything about the mill 
 speaks of other days and, in vivid con- 
 trast, everything Inside tells of the 
 (lays that are. All kinds of modern 
 papei-making machinery Is there and 
 It is almost worth the trouble of the 
 trip to go through the place. 
 
 On the opposite side of the road 
 from the paper mill is to be seen 
 a .skeleton of two crumbling end wal s 
 of stone, taken out of the adjoining 
 hill side. This is all that is left of a 
 famous old distillery that was in 
 nj)oration In 1823, and has been for 
 over twenty years in its present ruin- 
 ed condition. Following the creek bot- 
 tom down a short distance on its left 
 hand shore will be seen a bam with 
 an old-time stone foundation. That 
 old stone foundation is all that is left 
 of what was the first paper mill in On- 
 tario. It was built a short time be- 
 fore the Barber mills, and earned 
 from the government the bonus offered 
 to the mill turning out the first sheet 
 of paper in this part of the land. It was 
 known as the Hellwell mill, being run 
 by a man of that name for a long time. 
 It afterward changed hands, a Mrs. 
 Bansley taking it over. About eighteen 
 jruis ago it was burned down, and 
 afterwards was disposed of to a 
 farmer, who heartlessly built up a 
 frame barn ujion its ruins. J. K. W. 
 
 
 
 GOOD KVIDRNCE. 
 (Htutt'A Mill.! 
 
lOl 
 
 ' hollow, 
 
 e It as a 
 
 to trace 
 
 less im- 
 
 the mill 
 
 'ivid con- 
 
 of the 
 
 ' modern 
 
 here and 
 
 le of the 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 T I i K 
 
 1 ■ O O I. s 
 
 C O 1. I, K G K 
 
 ;he road 
 be seen 
 end wal.s 
 adjoining 
 left of a 
 was in 
 been f<<r 
 3ent ruln- 
 ;reek bot- 
 »n its left 
 )arn with 
 n. That 
 lat is le^ft 
 illl In On- 
 time be- 
 id earned 
 us offered 
 first sheet 
 nd. It was 
 being run 
 long time, 
 a Mrs. 
 t eighteen 
 )wn, and 
 of to a 
 uilt up a 
 J. K. W. 
 
 \:UY much that i- 
 I' / of interest in this 
 district cannot be 
 picked up in on>^ tri)) 
 over the Rock 
 
 chapel road. Take, 
 for instance. the 
 church building at 
 the left h!tn 1 corner 
 of the road traveled 
 as one leaves the 
 town line. At firsit glance one would 
 never imagine it had a history worth 
 considering. If you were to meet with 
 any of the sons of this present decade 
 they would tell you it was an Anglican 
 mission, presided over by Rev. A. E. 
 Irvir.<f, of Dundaa. hut that would not 
 be all. True, it is now a church, fixed 
 up and remodeled for the purprj^e, but 
 
 till 10 was a time when it had another 
 name. Tliat name was Fools' collegf, 
 not in a slang sense by any means, 
 but seriously named by the builder 
 thereof at its christening. That was in 
 the year IS — , but what use bothering 
 with dates? It was in the day when 
 Father Stock and J. H. Smith, county 
 school inspector, were young fellows, 
 kicking up their heels around the coun- 
 try side like the untrained colts that 
 they were. That is guarantee enough 
 of old age for all general purposes. In 
 that day the young minds of the coun- 
 try had a hungering and thirsting after 
 knowledge generally and "book 
 larnin' '" in particular. The govern - 
 ncnt had Just commenced that very 
 pialseworthy distribution of funds for 
 the erection and maintenance of Me- 
 
 FOOLS COLLEOK. 
 (Now a Church.) 
 
i ■' 
 
 ii 
 
 :■! 
 
 l! : 
 
 .04 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 CRMETKKY (on tlie hill). 
 
 A GUIHT MILL KRLIC. 
 
 OLD BOARDING HOUSE. 
 
 chanics' Institutes, and this building 
 was erected specially for that purpose. 
 Albert B. Palmer, of Mlllgrove, and 
 father of John Palmer, of this city, 
 was the builder, and It was he who 
 gave it its peculiar name. The cus- 
 tom in those days was to break a bot- 
 tle of liquor over every new building 
 at its completion and give it at the 
 same time a name, and It so happened 
 that when the time came to do this 
 with this building no one had thought 
 of a name. In the dilemma Palmer 
 came to the rescue. "Do you want a 
 name for it?" asked he, as he stood 
 with bottle in hand, ready to throw. 
 "I'll name it," and as he threw the bot- 
 tle, smash against the wall, he cried 
 out, "Fools' college," and Fools' col- 
 lege it remained in name ever after- 
 ward. 
 
 Shortly after the advent of the Me- 
 chanics institute library, all the young 
 men of the neighb; .ood took the de- 
 bating fever and a debating school was 
 started. The men divided themselves 
 into two sections, called the Meadow 
 Mice (those living In the valley) and 
 the Mountain Rats (those living on the 
 hills). M.any a night did these two sec. 
 tlons fight oratorically In Fools' col- 
 lege on all those subjects so dear to 
 
 the del)ater'3 heart, even to the present 
 day. Single or married life, which? 
 The pen or the sword, which? Nature 
 or art. which? These and many more 
 were the matters troubling the youth- 
 ful minds of the period. It was there 
 Inspector Smith made the first sp' ech 
 of his life, and that he has improved 
 since may be known from the fact that 
 on that occasion his address lasted 
 about one and one-half minutes. 111.^ 
 opponent on that occat!ion made much 
 sport of him in his round, and this 
 angered the inspector-to-be. His l)".oiid 
 began to boil, and by the time it was 
 again his turn to talk he was mad 
 enough to have fought. But he didn't. 
 He talked, and did so well and in such 
 marked contrast to his first effort that 
 for a long time afterward it was said 
 of him, "If you want Smith to make a 
 good sijeech just get him mad." De- 
 bates were often held with the city de- 
 bating clubs, and the Fools' college 
 men say yet that in those challenge af- 
 fairs they had their full share of vic- 
 tories. Then came the day when the 
 Mechanics' institute outlived its 
 greatest usefulness, and finally the 
 College of the Fools became the church 
 as it is to-day. That is the history, and 
 it Is no mean one. 
 
!li 
 
 THK KOOI.s' COLLEGE 
 
 •"5 
 
 II 
 
 HOUSE. 
 
 le present 
 ?, which'.' 
 ? Natuie 
 any more 
 he youth- 
 vva.s thet-e 
 •st speech 
 impiowd 
 fact that 
 ss las-tt^d 
 jtes. Ills 
 ade miK'h 
 and this 
 His l)"()iid 
 ne it was 
 was mad 
 he didn't, 
 id in siu'h 
 ■ffort that 
 was said 
 ;o make a 
 ad." De- 
 e city de- 
 college 
 ,llenge af- 
 re of vie- 
 when the 
 lived Its 
 lally the 
 he church 
 story, and 
 
 WOOLKN MILL FllAGMENTS. 
 
 WOOL, WOOL. 
 
 JOHN ijavif:s & 
 
 are now proi'ared to iiay 
 
 HIGHEST PUICES IN C.VSH 
 
 for any quautity of Wool. 
 
 CO. 
 
 FAKMKRS 
 
 Support Canadian manufacture. Huy clotli 
 in c.xtihangu for wool at uianufau- 
 turers' prices. 
 
 • * • 
 
 Back of Stutts' paper mill and up 
 the bank of the creek can now \ie geen 
 a tall chimney place af stone, and that 
 is all that remains to tell the story of 
 ! a flve-story grist mill. This place was 
 
 some time after its erection turned 
 into a woolen mill and run by T Ber- 
 kenshaw. It then changed again and 
 became a cotton-batting mill, run by 
 two men named Kerbin & Wright, and 
 fir ally, about eighteen years ago, 
 was pulled down, nothing being left 
 but the big chimney-place to tell the 
 tale of where it stood. On the same aide 
 of the creek a little lower down at one 
 time* stood the foundry and carding 
 
 mills of John Davies and Co. There 
 can be no doubt about this, as a short 
 time ago the bill here reproduced was 
 found pasted upon a board in its ruins. 
 Unfortunately the date of the bill was 
 torn off. 
 
 .Tust across the creek from this ruin 
 V ill be seen a small piece of the wail 
 of T. & J. Crooks' steam and water 
 saw mill and out in front of the Stutt 
 mill now In use and adjoining the old 
 distillery ruin is all that is left of an 
 old oil, bark and tannery premises. 
 Away back of them all— even behind 
 the chimney ruin of the old grist mill — 
 is a long, low, two story frame house, 
 still In use, which at one time was the 
 boarding-house for many of the mill 
 hands about the place. 
 
 Away beyond the hill to the w«at 
 Is the old Crooks' residence and on 
 the hill looking down upon the water- 
 power that brought so much money to 
 the Crooks family, Is their family bury- 
 ing ground. It is a curious old place, 
 this burying ground, not kept very 
 well in repair. The top of the hill Is 
 

 r 
 
 1 06 
 
 WENTWOUTH I.ANDMAUKS 
 
 I r 
 
 ' 1 
 
 U 
 
 
 rot more than twenty yards across, 
 and this top is fenced In. Within the 
 enclosure are several tall trees and the 
 graves of the departed members of the 
 Crooks family along with those of 
 some of their friends. The last one 
 interred there, according to the head- 
 stones, was Frances, a daughter of 
 Hon. .Tames Crooks. Her body was 
 brought from Toronto and buried on 
 the bleak hill top in January, 1895, she 
 being at the time of her death 66 
 years old. The tomb of Hon. James 
 Crooks, the founder of the settlement, 
 Is unadorned by any monument, hut 
 over the mound of earth is gathered an 
 enormous pile of great stones, as if to 
 insure for the mouldering clay freedom 
 from the maraudings of any ghouls 
 who might come to desecrate the place. 
 Among the other graves there is that 
 of Thomas Angus Blair, who is 
 described as being late captain of the 
 Fifth Royal Scots Fusileers. He was 
 born at Blair, Ayrshire, Scotland, in 
 ISll, and died at Crooks' hollow In IS.".". 
 
 There are many other graves, and as 
 descendants of the Crooks family die 
 their bodies are interred there. Hon. 
 James died in 1861, and James, a son, 
 in 1850. Hon. Adam Crooks, another 
 eon, died at Ouelph, and was buried 
 there. The power of the family Is 
 gone from the place forever. They own 
 but a fragmentary portion of their 
 former Inheritance there, and their 
 present glory is in their unique bury- 
 ing sround, away on the top of the 
 bleak hill, from which, If there be 
 such things as spirits, they may look 
 down upon what was once theirs, but 
 has now become the property of others 
 and has for the most part fallen into 
 decay and ruin. This, then, is the 
 s'tory of Crooks' Hollow and Its ruins. 
 Much more could be written, but for 
 the sightseer what has been written is 
 enough to furnish food for a day's out- 
 ing and this done, the artist and writer 
 have completed their task. Go and see 
 it all for yourself. J. E. W. 
 
 CK00K8' SAW MILL KUIN. 
 
. (c 
 
 •A 
 
 ■r. 
 
 ■J 
 I 
 
 X 
 X 
 
 n 
 
1 
 
101 
 
 THE VALLEY CITY 
 
 The Faded Glory of a Town Once the Head of Navigation 
 From the Sea. J^ Its Canal Basin, Old Buildings, and 
 Industries That Are But a Memory. 
 
 I 
 
 U. 
 
^■f 
 
 ii 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 KAin.Y msTOKV OK Dl'NDAS 
 
 ATTS, Hairs and 
 Heads — these are 
 three of the oldest 
 families in the his- 
 toric town of Dun. 
 (las, and they In 
 their various 
 l>ranches know a 
 Kood deal of the 
 records of the 
 place. In their 
 honor streets are 
 named and big 
 business blocks 
 
 are christened. 
 
 But family names are not the most 
 Interesting things In the old town, nor 
 are the pretty modern day scenes pic- 
 tured In the lately published Pic- 
 turesque Dundas. To regard the Val- 
 ley City from its really interesting 
 point of view one must see the old 
 with the new, the ruin alongside the 
 modern up-to-date, and perhaps there 
 is no other town in Canada pos- 
 sessing so much of the one with an 
 equal showing of the other. When 
 they compiled a hymn book for the 
 Anglican church they entitled it a col- 
 lection of Hymns, Ancient and Mod- 
 ern. A fitting descriptive name for 
 Dundas town would be A Collection of 
 Houses, Ancient and Modern. 
 
 They rail the place the Valley City 
 and that is quite right. In only one 
 way can it be reached or departed 
 from on the level — that Is by the canal 
 route. All other ways lead the trav- 
 eler up and down hill; nevertheless, 
 they are all pleasant ways and well 
 worth traveling. It took its name— 
 Dundas — from the name of the long 
 military highway opened up by Gov- 
 ernor Slmcoe from the St. Lawrence 
 to London and christened after Henry 
 Dundas (Viscount Melville), secretary 
 of war In the Duke of Portland's cab- 
 inet. That Dundas street, then the 
 way of the warrior, is now known bet- 
 
 ter among county councilors and others 
 aH the Governor's road, and la used 
 solely by followers of the peaceful art 
 of farming and pleasant pastime of 
 bicycling or driving. At the time when 
 the tramp of armed men was more 
 common in the colony than now, Dun- 
 das was quite a place, and only the 
 advent of steam railways saved It 
 from losing all its natural loveliness 
 and becoming a great and bustling 
 center of trade and commerce. Lucky 
 accident that discovered the value of 
 steam and saved Dundas! It has been 
 all evolution In the town In the valley 
 until finally the place seems to have 
 discovered Its mission and settled 
 down to fulfil that mission as a beau- 
 tiful outsklrt of Hamilton, with a suf- 
 ficiency of manufacturing and other 
 business to warrant Its existence as an 
 Incorporated town. 
 
 In those earlier clays when the val- 
 ley people were flighty and soaring as 
 the mighty hills about their homes 
 in enterprise they projected and suc- 
 (ef»sfuliy carried through the Desjar- 
 dins canal scheme, and for years 
 fondly clung to the delusive hope 
 that their town was to be the future 
 great city of the province. They had 
 good enough right to be aspiring, too, 
 for at that time, with the shipping 
 they had, their port was the busiest 
 along Ontario's shores. It was In 
 those days that the sight of from 
 twelve to fifteen large masted boats — 
 grain, lumber and general carriers 
 from seaport places on the St. Law- 
 rence river — gathered in the canal 
 liasin was no uncommon thing. In 
 those days the shores of the basin 
 were lined with great warehouses, 
 where grain and other products were 
 stored for shipment. From Gait, 
 Guelph, Preston and all other Inland 
 centers in Dundas direction the 
 farmers brought their stuff to the canal 
 for shipment, and It was no uncommon 
 
 ■ ; 
 a; 
 
KAKI.V IIISTOHY OK DINPAS 
 
 109 
 
 siKlit In the busy seaaon to bp« aa 
 many as a hundred teams tolling 
 down King street through the town 
 to the warehouses at the canal. It 
 used also to be the headquarters for 
 importations by water, and many a 
 ship load of emigrants flrat set foot 
 on Canadian soil from the basin 
 wharves. Many of the poor wretches, 
 too, died about there, and their bones 
 
 that at that time lay to the west of 
 the town. Since that tim«, however, 
 both canal and marsh have been 
 gradually undergoing the evolution 
 process, and to-day hundreds of acres 
 of land used for wheat growing was 
 at that time far under water. The 
 drying up is going on even more rap- 
 idly now than ever before, and the 
 day Is sure to come when the fluent 
 
 
 '^'"^V//-iv'" '■•'-. 
 
 
 KUIN8 OK TMK OI,D OATMK.AI, Mil, I,. 
 
 to the number of several hundn^d 
 liodies mingle with the dust of cholera 
 victims In the dismal cemetery on the 
 heights, their deaths being due to ship 
 fever. James Reynolds, now an old 
 man, was an engineer on the canal 
 nearly 50 years ago, and handled many 
 of the vessels whose prows were point- 
 ed toward the canal mouth from the 
 lake. The steamer Queen of the West 
 was one of the first boats to ply the 
 mad waters, and there were many 
 others. 
 
 The canal was a fine piece of work, 
 dredged through the immense marsh 
 
 garden land in the country will le 
 found in the marsh land in the valley 
 between the heights and Dundas. 
 Coote's paradise they call that piece 
 of country even to this day, though 
 most people now who use the name 
 do not know what it means. In all 
 past time the marsh has been noted 
 as the gathering place of water fowl, 
 and in the early days when the men 
 of war, stationed at York and other 
 places, wanted go>d shooting they 
 would come there for it. Capt. Coote, 
 of the King's regiment— the Eighth- 
 was one of these sport lovers, and so 
 great was his passion and so assidu- 
 ously did he follow the sport at this 
 

 I lO 
 
 WKNTNVOHTII I.ANDMAKKS 
 
 Iilacc that Is wan nick-named Coote'u 
 jaiadlHe. 
 
 « • • 
 
 < tf course, when the boom of shlp- 
 jilnK was on, the Dundag people ein- 
 tarked in all kinds of manuraotuiin^c 
 ventures, and, having an ahundanci' 
 of water power handy, factories of all 
 kinds sprang up on every hand. They 
 were mostly of stone, hewn from the 
 rocky hills around, and for that rea- 
 son they will stand, making the town 
 tlie jilcturesque spot It Is. On nearly 
 nvery street of the place ruins of some 
 kind or other are to be found, and 
 each ruin represents a step In the 
 evolution of the place. Hack of the 
 ( otton mills and at the foot of the hill 
 leading up to Col. Gwyn's residence 
 is a good specimen, which In some 
 degree illustrates them all. It is all 
 that la left to tell the story of an oat- 
 meal and flour mill that flourished in 
 the fifties. Down about the canal ba- 
 sin and along the banks of the creek 
 leading from Ancaster, the deserted 
 places are most numerous, and wher- 
 ever they appear they lend a charm 
 and beauty to the scene. It Is out In 
 the valley city, too, that the great 
 iron gates now hanging at the Dun- 
 durn park entrance once used to 
 hang, and 'tis said the big stone 
 blocks on which they rested are still 
 
 to be seen. 
 
 * * * 
 
 But what has Veen written here Is 
 
 not Intended to go beyond thf canal 
 and Its Influence upon tht town. Old 
 residents will talk of Its past glories; 
 present day residents see it merely as 
 a sort of recreation spot where boating 
 may be indulged In in Hunimer and 
 where in winter there is good skating. 
 To-day the basin, instead of being filled 
 as of ycire with grain laden vts8«'ls wait- 
 ing the springtime and opening of 
 navigation to go on their way to .Mon- 
 treal, Is a deserted looking spot, lo- 
 and snow <'Overed, its pile lined side 
 breaking away and ceasing to lie of 
 value In keeping back the caving shore 
 line. Nothing in the shape of shipping 
 but a steam yacht and a few sail lioats 
 now float on its waters and the entei- 
 prise of the town Is turned In differ- 
 ent directions. And yet, even with 
 other industries, the excitements of th<> 
 old days are not to be found. To-day 
 the townspeople find all their fun In 
 the summer season on but three oc- 
 casions—the Bertram picnic, the 
 House of Providence picnic, and the 
 great fall fair. The rest of their sum- 
 mer time thoy spend In humdrum mo- 
 notony, though In the midst of scenes 
 unexcelled by nature In any other part 
 01' the world. So beautiful, so wonder- 
 ful In fact that artists even from far 
 away Japan have made the place their 
 home and spent their best effoi-ts upon 
 the work they found so lavishly 6\it- 
 triliuted in and around the corpora- 
 tion confines. J. 10. W. 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 ns I'lt Kni> I <»i!K' III ii.i)i\(i> 
 
 (•WN in the 
 \ alley wliei'e 
 
 dit<arny I>umlas 
 lies there atf 
 many mi.sty 
 
 landmarks of 
 
 Vl h-~'''^^lHfifK^/T >iavlnK their 
 
 itlUl^l^^B^^ r counter part s 
 \^'^: ^^^^^rniA.'l: and verifying 
 
 t'videncfs onh' 
 in the THUS 
 archivt'H of Iht 
 county r<'j;ls- 
 trar's oiHce. 
 
 Ther<' has been 
 many and many 
 a traveler Btum- 
 lilo over deep 
 planted stones on some of the road 
 sides out there, and It has never oc- 
 euried to them tliajt the stone they fell 
 over was valuable at all. But they 
 are. Some of these are on the o:d 
 York road and bear the Initials O. H.. 
 standing for George Rolph, a well- 
 hnown early settler in the valley, but 
 dead now some years. They date back 
 to the year 1824. It was a fashion 
 in the early days to mark by these 
 stones the remarkable things of the 
 time, and when Sir Allan MacNab 
 bought the big iron gates that now 
 swing on the rusty hinges at Dun- 
 durn park, Mr. Rolph, who then owned 
 them, planted a stone to mark the spot 
 from which they were taken. Tliis 
 stone is In a vacant lot near (lOrd'm 
 Wilson's store, and it marks the old 
 entrance to Mr. Rolph's property. If 
 anyone is inquisitive enough he may 
 find In the wall of Dundurn near the 
 gate an inscription which tells the 
 date when the huge stone balls over- 
 mounting the gate posts at Dundurn 
 were cut from the rook In Dundas. 
 
 The records of things that have 
 Ijeen in Pundas are scattered abroad. 
 In the t'>wii I'.all out thei'e ihey say 
 
 tliey have no infoimation as to the 
 o|ienlng of the canal, but Inspector 
 Smith, who has his recreation In lulii 
 delving, hag documents which tell tti- 
 day and date of the opening, and also 
 rehearse the names of the steameis 
 and other craft that on ojiening day 
 made their way to the basin and help- 
 ed to make the afl'air more glorious. 
 Miss Rolph, daughter' of George Rolph, 
 referred to al>ove, also has a fund of 
 information whl<h she Is coiii ctin^ 
 with the zest of an antiquary. 
 
 Away out on the road leading to 
 the driving park, on one's right hand 
 side, there at the i>resent time stands 
 an unpretentious little brown house, 
 right out to the fence line. No one 
 lives there, nor has anyone for some 
 years, and the jtlace Is getting a very 
 weather-beaten look. Down on a level 
 with the walk there Is a grated win- 
 dow, hardly large enough for a mans 
 head to go through, and on tht Inside 
 In the basement there is a small com- 
 I)artment divided off from the rest of 
 the place by a heavy stone partition. 
 No one in Dundas seems to be al)lto 
 to say with absolute assurance that 
 this place was at one time a court 
 house, and that the pai'tltloned <iff 
 basement part a cell; but every 
 oni' l)elieves it, and its ai'pearanie 
 would indicate that the belief is w-ll 
 founded. The rambler can get into 
 the basement tiy climbing the fence 
 and going down the steps shown in 
 the picture to the door In the rear. 
 There is not much In the basement 
 now. PMrst thing to greet the inquisi- 
 tive eye is an old elder press, but that 
 has been put there In rather recemt 
 times. In the cell at the right of the 
 picture there Is no mark of any kind 
 save that of the hand of time, which 
 shows in the dilapidated condition of 
 the doorway. No prisoner who may 
 have been confined there awaiting his 
 call to the court room above ever ex- 
 
TIW 
 
 I 12 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 n 
 
^1 
 
 ITS PREHISTORIC BUILDINGS 
 
 U3 
 
 
 THE OLD LOG JAIL 
 
 pressed his feelings as prisoners are 
 usually supposed to do by scribbling 
 on the whitewashed walls, and the his- 
 tory of the place, from all that can 
 be gleaned In and around it, is pretty 
 
 much a blank. 
 
 * * • 
 
 There is another building — a log 
 structure back of the old court house 
 and negtling In a ravine with pine 
 trees all about. This is what is said to 
 have been the jail proper — the town 
 jail, for they had a county jail at that 
 time just outside the town. The old 
 log building is still in commission, but 
 nut as a jail. It is now a barn, and 
 the business-iike hen has taken up her 
 abode there, cackling and scratching 
 aliout just as if no one else in the 
 world had ever had troubles but her- 
 self. Judge Snider is the happy pos- 
 sessor of a painting portraying these 
 two fast crumbling relics of the ju- 
 dicial past. 
 
 * « * 
 
 When one begins delving among 
 ruins the more one delves the more is 
 discovered thvat calls for further delv- 
 ing. Dundas was not always known 
 as Dundas, and there is evidence grav- 
 en in solid silver to prove there was 
 once another name by which the place 
 
 was known. The Hatt family was 
 sjii'ken of as one of the oldest in the 
 place in the last chapter, and they 
 were there before 1>>17. Un the fii-st 
 day of January in that year Richard 
 and Mary Hatt presented a solid sil- 
 ver communion service to the English 
 church there. It was a noble gift and 
 made of sterling metal, and even to- 
 day it is in use in the church on Hatt 
 street. Rev. E. A. Irving, the rector 
 of the church there, keeps the three 
 pieces safeguarded in his house, hut 
 kindly allowed a Spectator artist to 
 sketch them. They are very hea\y, 
 and as far as appearance go might 
 not have been in use more than L'O 
 years. But their antiquity and also 
 the old name of the place is proven by 
 the engraving on them. The wording 
 is as follows: 
 
 The Gift of 
 RICHARD AND MARY HATT. 
 of Ancaster, 
 For the use of the church in the vil- 
 lage of Coote's Paradise. District of 
 Gore, Upper Canada, Janu- 
 ary 1, 1817. 
 
 This appears on both the tray and 
 goblets. The box In which the set Is 
 kept is an old-fashioned one, too, made 
 
114 
 
 WENTWOKTII I.A N DM A K KS 
 
 of solid British oak, and lined with 
 now faded silk. 
 
 There is another curiosity resting in 
 a back shed on the chur^ 1: grounds, 
 displaced by the more n •►dern In 
 church architecture. It is one of the 
 old-fashioned pulpit desks, made of 
 black walnut and standing on a pedes- 
 tal about six feet high. Steps lead up 
 from the floor to the pulpit box, and 
 there about ten feet above his audi- 
 ence the rector used to preach. 
 
 The Haltts brought the communion 
 service out from England when they 
 came, and when they presented it to 
 the church there was no church build- 
 
 ing. Meetings were in those days held 
 from house to house, and when occa- 
 sion came, from time to time, the 
 faithful used the gift in their worship. 
 Ii was used in the present church for 
 the first time on the first Sunday in 
 January, 1844. The church was built 
 in the previous year. For some time 
 previous to this services were held in 
 a building down by the canal basin, 
 called the Free church, Dr. Stark, 
 Archdeacon McMurray and others of 
 all denominations holding service 
 there. Rev. Mr. Osier, father of B. 
 B. Osier, succeeded Rev. Mr. McMur- 
 ray. The first person in charge was 
 Rev. Ralph Leemlng, a missionary, 
 who was there in 1818, and married a 
 member of the Hatt family. 
 
 J. E. W. 
 
 — G 
 
 A COMMINION SEUVICK I'KKBKNTKD TO COOTK'S PARADISE IN 1817. 
 
 ,11 
 
days held 
 hen occa- 
 Ime, the 
 • worship, 
 hurch for 
 Sunday in 
 was built 
 lome time 
 re held in 
 nal basin, 
 r. Stark, 
 others of 
 f service 
 tier of B. 
 •. McMur- 
 large was 
 ilssionary, 
 married a 
 
 . E. W. 
 
 1817. 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 o 
 
 7: 
 
 
 'A 
 
 
I 
 
 The 
 
 ^' 
 
EARLY HISTORY OF BEVERLEY 
 
 The City of Romulus, Planned on Metropolitan Lines, But 
 Never Realized the Hopes of Its Founder. J- Reminis- 
 cences of a Centenarian Trojan. ^ A Troy Without 
 Its Helen. 
 
 \ 
 
r 
 
 'U 
 
 '■ s 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 A CITY 'IJIAT WAS NOT JJUII.T 
 
 
 HERE are few 
 persons aware 
 of the fact that 
 out in the wilds 
 of Beverly 
 township there 
 Is a large city 
 all laid out 
 ready to be 
 built, but be- 
 yond a few 
 stray log build- 
 ings of a more than usually substan- 
 tial character, and the nicely colored 
 plan of the burg which exists some- 
 where there is nothing remaining to 
 indicate the originally high aspirations 
 of the place. It can scarcely be called 
 a dead city, because it never reached 
 urban importance, except in the mind 
 of the founder, who, with his imme- 
 diate relatives, now sleep the long 
 sleep among the ruins of his hopes. 
 To that extent, if not a dead city, it 
 may be called a city of the dead. The 
 fallowing article on the forgotten me- 
 tropolis, which is situated two miles 
 west of Rockton, is from the pen of 
 the poet of Rushdale farm; 
 
 THKRK WEKE (HANTS IN THOSE DAYS. 
 
 The man who founded Romulus was 
 one of them. A giant in courage, en- 
 durance and resource — he towered 
 above his fellowmen as the great white 
 pines of Beverly once towered above 
 the black birches and the beeches that 
 grew at their feet. This man was 
 Henry Lamb, a Pennsyivanian of 
 
 Highland °"M' ■: 
 Loyalist - ^f 
 ard flat' hi ; 
 
 north V •! r.ifc . 
 
 tied In M- 
 
 Gore dlStric. . . 
 statles in tils pata i 
 
 descent, a U. E. 
 
 ">. 8r>urnlng a bast- 
 
 !^ rebels, moved 
 
 iiir'ngs and set- 
 
 *i. .ir of the great 
 
 jpendous ob- 
 
 ; for a moment 
 
 daunted this old hero. From the door 
 of the rude shack which he had built 
 to shelter him and keep the wolves out, 
 he could not see more than 50 yards 
 in any direction., and naug;ht but the 
 
 moon and stars by night and the sun 
 by day shining above his little clear- 
 ing reminded him that the universe 
 was big and God was greal. All alone 
 in his splendid isolation, in the superb 
 stillness and the Titantic uproar of the 
 forest, in the sweet safety and terrible 
 peril of the bush, he conceived of 
 great things. He set words to the 
 splendid music of peerless pines, the 
 tapering tamaracks, the heaped-up 
 hemlocks, the majestic maples, the 
 honest old oaks, the bizari-e birches 
 and the cold calm cedars, and he be- 
 gan to chant that hymn all over the 
 world. He spread his rude map of 
 British North America out on the top 
 of a stump and laid a two-ounce bul- 
 let on the spot where the deserted 
 hamlet of Romulus now stands. By 
 the map he saw that he was located in 
 the very heart of the British domains 
 in America, right on the great high- 
 way from Quebec. This land was 
 bound to have towns and cities. Why 
 not have a great city right here under 
 the bullet? He would build It. He 
 bore the brand, not of Cain, but of a 
 Icyal subject and a true man, on face 
 and forehead. Why should he not 
 build a city? The wolves crept nearer 
 and howled In derision, and the owls 
 hooted with contempt, but he paid no 
 heed. He took up 2,000 acres of land 
 around the bullet and named the new 
 city Romulus. Why, It Is hard to 
 tell. Did the big sl*e wolif with hang- 
 ing lugs and golden eyes that looked 
 at him through the chinks of his cabin 
 every night put the Idea into his head? 
 No one knows — but Romulus it was 
 and Romulus It is, although you will 
 look vainly in the postoffice directory 
 for it. It is a melancholy ruin — far 
 more desolate than the majestic for- 
 est that Henry Lamb found. Now 
 there Is nothing but tumbling walls 
 and broken roofs and weed hidden 
 paths and cold and barren fireplaces. 
 
 Lamb hied him to England and ad- 
 vertised In the principal London, Blr- 
 
I the sun 
 tie clear- 
 universe 
 All alone 
 le superb 
 )ar of the 
 d terrible 
 leived of 
 3 to the 
 jines, the 
 leaped-up 
 pies, the 
 i birches 
 nd he be- 
 over the 
 3 map of 
 tn the top 
 mnce bul- 
 ! deserted 
 ,nds. By 
 located in 
 1 domains 
 reat high- 
 land was 
 lies. Why 
 lere under 
 i it. He 
 but of a 
 n, on face 
 d he not 
 ept nearer 
 I the owls 
 le paid no 
 es of land 
 d the new 
 hard to 
 vlth hang- 
 hat looked 
 f his cabin 
 his head? 
 as it was 
 h you will 
 i directory 
 ruin — far 
 jestic for- 
 nd. Now 
 )ling walls 
 ed hidden 
 Ireplaces. 
 id and eud- 
 )ndon, Blr- 
 
 A CITY THAT WAS NOT BUII-T 
 
 "9 
 
 mingham, Manchester and Liverpool 
 papers for artisans and workers in 
 every art and profession. He promised 
 them a house and lot and firewood free 
 and immunity from taxes for 25 years. 
 He promised them plenty of game and 
 flsh. He gave a free site for a Church 
 of England cathedral at the west end 
 of the town and another site for the 
 bishop's palace and Roman Catholic 
 cathedral in the east end, and free 
 sites and building material for churches 
 of all other denominations. He gave 
 a market square, a cricket ground, a 
 race coui-se; promised to erect a flrst- 
 class theater, concert hall and ball- 
 room, and even advertised for an effl- 
 
 woods. His became the great half- 
 way house between the head of navi- 
 gation — Dundas — and the great Ger- 
 man and Mennonlte settlement In what 
 Is now Waterloo county. His wife was 
 hostess, his brother, Major Lamb, his 
 right hand man, and besides he had 
 four stalwart sons, Lemuel, Charles, 
 
 
 
 
 1-THE liAMH HOMESTEAD. 
 2-DOVETAILED LOGS IN THE WALL. 
 
 cient chief of police. He came back and 
 built the first and biggest hewn log 
 house in Beverly, erected a huge stone 
 milk house over a living stream of 
 water, a house big enough to furnish 
 the milk, butter and cheese of the new 
 city; opened a tavern, built a church 
 and whooped her up generally. Set- 
 tlers clustered round him, a road was 
 built past his very door, the wagon 
 wheels knocked chips off the corner 
 of his house, and the lights In his wln^ 
 dow were a beacon for the weary 
 travelers through the wolf-Infested 
 
 Henry, 
 
 and one daughter, the 
 
 late Mrs. Andrew Van Every. 
 
 What would have happened had the 
 first three lived twenty years longer 
 than they did it is hard to tell. The 
 hardships and terrors of the American 
 revolution, the great hejira north- 
 ward, the perils and dangers of the 
 unknown woods had sapped their 
 strength and they died within a short 
 time of one another. And these two 
 heroes and that one heroine sleep side 
 by side and are the only occupants of 
 one of the strangest a«d most pathetic 
 

 \ i 
 
 120 
 
 WENTVVORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 graveyards In the world. Henry Lamb 
 built his city on a rock, and he and his 
 were determined to be buried in the 
 middle of the town. The bodies were 
 placed in their rude coffins side by 
 side on the top of the ground and 
 were covered with tons of great stones. 
 A stone wall was built around them, 
 and this filled in and over with soil, 
 so that when it was finished it formed 
 a cairn 18x27 feet at the base and ten 
 feet high. There they slept peacefully 
 
 like the ancient Egyptian kings and 
 queens in the pyramidal tombs, and 
 every night the wolves foregathered 
 above them and fought for the highest 
 seats of the mighty. To-day these 
 graves are unkempt and the wall in 
 ruins. Groundhogs make their homes 
 there down among the dead men's 
 bones and the wind and weather of 
 three-quarters of a century have left 
 the cairn only four feet high. 
 
 THE KHAN. 
 
 i ! 
 
 fm 
 
 GRAVES OF HENRY LAMB, HIS WIFE AND HIS BROTHER MAJOR LAMB 
 

 i\\ 
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 I, K G ENDS O V K O M f L U S 
 
 ■I^^-^T^^- 
 
 E(iAR DING 
 the home of 
 Henry Lamb 
 as he first es- 
 tablished it. I 
 should have 
 
 said that It 
 was a fort, or 
 more properly 
 a stockade. The 
 property reach- 
 ing as far as 
 the dam, east 
 :£^as far as the 
 "Bishop's pal- 
 ace, south be- 
 yond the mill, and north bordering 
 what is now the old orchard. It was 
 enclosed with a hewn log wall in 
 some places ten feet hirh. It was 
 really the rancherio of South America 
 and the kraal of South Africa. As 
 Lamb kept the first tavern in the Gore 
 district he early recognised that men 
 who relied on their rifles for fresh 
 meat, and whose gorge rose against 
 fried bear, boiled black venison, and 
 stewed ground hog; looked upon hens 
 and eggs as the greatest luxury on top 
 of earth. 
 
 Therefore Henry Lamb kept hogs, 
 and the great tide of humanity, prin- 
 cipally G3rmAn, that flowed west, look- 
 ed upon Romulus as the land of plenty. 
 Here the first pig's foot was pickled; 
 in that old and solemn house the first 
 sllpi)ery, gummy head cheese was 
 made; in that front yard the first intes- 
 tines were scientifically cleansed under 
 the supervision of an old Dutchmati 
 who had hob-nobbed with Van Der 
 Bllt and Jacob Astor. And this leads 
 up to my story: 
 
 The Indians, "our friends and allies," 
 as the British government kindly called 
 them, but painted barbarians just the 
 same, whose descendants to this day 
 preserve as heirlooms the scalps their 
 enemies, not their fathers, wore at 
 St(my Creek and Queenston Heights, 
 used to drop down in a friendly way 
 on the unsophicticated U. E. Loyalist. 
 
 They vLsited Henry Lamb once, and 
 only once. Some travelers found him 
 bandaged with weasel skins, which in 
 those days were supposed to cure any- 
 thing from a sore nipple to Bright's 
 disease, and asked him what was 
 wrong. 
 
 "Injuns," he said; "I had to fight 
 like the devil. A man might as well 
 lose his life as his pork." 
 
 This saying has been handed down 
 to this day In Beverly. 
 
 Henry Lamb Is a mystery. Even 
 his sons could tell nothing about hln , 
 or little about his antecedents, and 
 what added to their terror of this re- 
 markable man was the fact that one 
 great room at the top of the log cas- 
 tle was always closed. The door was 
 •Icu'ole locked, the windows heavily 
 curtained. No one entered that room 
 but Henry Lamb and his associates, 
 and these associates came from afar. 
 Weary and travel-stained they came 
 through the bush, and put up their 
 horses in the great log corral. They 
 looked like other men, Init there was 
 .something uncanny aliout them. 
 
 The rough and dangerous bully of 
 the bush, whose only law was his 
 strong right hand, was different when 
 these men came near. The wolf de- 
 fier, the hear hunter, the bartender, 
 the lio.«tlcr, the money lendei-, the 
 lay leader, the ready fighter, the man 
 whose expressive oaths are yet a leg- 
 acy, became In the presence of these 
 men a genial gentleman of the old 
 school, with subdued speech and man- 
 ner of the old regime. Lamb's wife, 
 a scion of one of the oldest French 
 families, the I">e Boucherviller.. don- 
 ned her best old silk and put on the 
 manners of the grande dame that she 
 ■was (her French school books are 
 preserved in Beverly), and the best 
 in the house was theirs — these stran- 
 gers! 
 
 They were strange people these; 
 they came from the noith and the 
 
122 
 
 WENTVVORTH I.ANDMAHKS 
 
 '! 
 
 •1 
 
 [ 
 
 II: 
 
 ' r' 
 
 II r 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 
 
 BUILDING ON THE SITE CH08BN FOK THE CATHOLIC CATHEDKAL. 
 
 south, the east and the west. One of 
 them one night turned his back to the 
 fire, parted his coat tails and recited 
 Virgil. Another, a Cambridge man, 
 gave Sophocles' Chariot Race, and 
 when his weird and strange compan- 
 ions brolce into a more or less discor- 
 dant shout of eulogy, a she wolf 
 screamed in the yard. Later, one by 
 one they went upstairs into that se- 
 cret room. The settlers shook their 
 heads, the Pennsylvania Dutch talked 
 of witchcraft, good Caitholics crossed 
 themselves, an old Indian employed 
 about the place cut his wrist, and let 
 the blood fall drop by drop on a bur- 
 dock leaf. Crafty hunters watched 
 the curtained window, daring wolf 
 killers studied the men who went up 
 those stairs. But all was silent, save 
 when that silence was punctuated 
 with unholy laughter. Then these 
 men. Lamb at their head, would come 
 down stairs and eat and eat and eat, 
 and drink and drink and drink just 
 like common folks. Other folks shook 
 their heads. No good would come of 
 it. One night after the orgies were 
 over, Henry Lamb, Judge O'Reilly 
 (father of ex-Mayor O'Reilly), and 
 another whose name I cannot get, 
 stole out of the house alone. They 
 bore a. box be'tween them containing 
 all of Henry Lamb's wealth in crowns, 
 half crowns and florins. They buried 
 the box In the hen house (right under 
 the hens), and then Henry Lamb 
 mounted a horse aind disappeared 
 through the moonlit forest on his way 
 to New York to take a degree of some 
 
 kind as a Royal Arch Mason. He was 
 gone four months, and when he re- 
 turned his crowns, half crowns and 
 florins were safe under a wagon box 
 full of superior fertiliser, almost equal 
 to guano. 
 
 * • * 
 
 Majoir Lamb died first. The location 
 of the romantic burying ground is In 
 this wise: He was very dropsical and 
 had traveled round the world seeking 
 health, and had once, as he always 
 boasted, had an audience with the 
 Pope. Knowing that he was going 
 to die four days before his demise, he 
 bid them put him in the old chariot 
 which had come from Philadelphia and 
 drive him round the city. "I wish to 
 be buried there," he said, pointing to 
 a knoll — and there he was buried on 
 the solid rock, for the rock Is very 
 near the surface all over that locality, 
 except where there is such a knoll. 
 When Henry Lamb died Judge O'Reilly 
 and two other men visited the great 
 log castle, broke open the door of the 
 secret room, stripped It of everything 
 withiin and departed, to the great re- 
 lief of the people in the little locality. 
 
 That room is the haunted room, and 
 no man in his senses would go into It 
 alone or sleep In it for all the farms 
 in Beverly. 
 
 Just this side of the old house is a 
 culvert, over which the people drive 
 to-day. I often wonder if the wheels 
 ever wake the old ghosts or if the peo- 
 ple who ride over the culvert ever 
 think that they are driving through a 
 city that lived in a great man's brain. 
 
I.EdENDS OF KOMUM'S 
 
 '-.1 
 
 A,.. . 
 
 Ui — • 
 ih. 
 
 He was 
 n he re- 
 wns ard 
 igon box 
 ost equal 
 
 J location 
 jnd is In 
 sioal and 
 i seeking 
 ! always 
 with the 
 as going 
 emise, he 
 a chariot 
 phia and 
 wish to 
 ►inting to 
 juried on 
 is very- 
 locality, 
 a knoll, 
 e O'Reilly 
 the great 
 or of the 
 very thing 
 great re- 
 ! locality, 
 oom, and 
 g-o into it 
 he farms 
 
 ouse is a 
 pie drive 
 le wheels 
 the peo- 
 ert ever 
 hrough a 
 n's brain, 
 
 and that some day in another world 
 he will show them hl» opera house and 
 his skating rink. No! They are won- 
 dering what the price of potatoes is in 
 Gait: 
 
 « • • 
 
 The splendid property was divided 
 among the children, but the mighty 
 boom had burst; Moses was dead, and 
 there was no Joshua. The government 
 moved the road to the other side of the 
 milk house and the dairy was turned 
 Into a tavern. A lean-to barroom 
 and a great fireplace were built against 
 the sooith wall, and there are their 
 ruins to be seen to-day. The old 
 milk house still stands stout and 
 strong with the pure and blessed 
 water flowing through it, but the bar. 
 room is a melancholy and rotted 
 wreck. Talking about this stream of 
 water reminds me that about the last 
 man who kept tavern there before 
 Watty Barons got it was a man 
 named Strahan. There was a trap-door 
 to reach the water which flowed be- 
 neath the floor. Mrs. Strahan was 
 found drowned In it one morning. 
 There were rumors that she had been 
 pushed in, but nothing was ever done 
 about it. There was no use making 
 a fuBs. The ruins of Lamb's mill that 
 furnished so much lumber for the dis- 
 trict are still to be seen directly south 
 of the old hotel. The mill is built on 
 the solid rock, worn smooth as glass, 
 and on its surface may be seen scratch- 
 ed deep lines from northwe.st to south- 
 east by the glaciers of acres unknown. 
 The old Mow.ierry tavern stanrls oti 
 the site of the proposed Catholic 
 cathedral and is still in good repair. 
 
 
 The old Lamb homestead is a won. 
 derful old building. There are four 
 great six-foot fireplaces In It— two up- 
 stairs and two down. They say that 
 walls have ears. Oh, if they only had 
 a tongue, what rare old stories would 
 those walls tell! As I passed from 
 room to room ghosts seemed to flit 
 noiselessly before me, and as I went 
 upstairs I noticed two ax marks on the 
 old bannister rail, made in a desperate 
 flght one wild winter's night. I 
 would hate to sleep all night alone In 
 that house. 
 
 It may be Interesting to know that 
 the village of Rockton was once part 
 of the estate of Lemuel Lamb, and it 
 came near being called Lambvllle. 
 When Hemon Gates Barlow was trea.s- 
 urer and chief magistrate of Beverly 
 his wife gave a party at which were 
 present Mrs. Belden, Mrs. Andrew 
 Kernighan, Mrs. Pettlnger, the Mls-sea 
 McVane, Miss Kate and Miss Aggie 
 Barrle, Mrs. Seth Holcomb, Mrs. Klrk- 
 patrlck and other ladles. The late 
 Mrs. Cranly was waiting on the table. 
 A government official had arrived to 
 establish a postofllce and he was in- 
 troduced to the ladies, had tea with 
 them, and stated his mission. None 
 of the ladies liked the name of Laml)- 
 vlUe, and In the midst of an animated 
 discussion as to what would be a good 
 appellation, Mrs. Cranly sang out: 
 
 "Call It Rocktown— dlvil a better 
 name you'll get than that!" 
 
 And amid screams of laughter the 
 little village received Its postofllce 
 name of Rockton. THE KHAN. 
 
 
 
 •,»/■, 
 
 ■ > T, . 1 .S' 
 
 ¥m 
 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 '\^M 
 
 
 
 't^m^f^A 
 
 ^/, 
 
 RUINS OF THE KOMULUB GRIST MILL. 
 
 mi? 
 
1 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 AN ANCIENT T K OJ A N 
 
 <)| 
 
 \ 
 
 i ''I! 
 
 iii 
 
 I i 
 
 \' 
 
 ilr 
 
 i 
 
 111 
 
 E wandered down th<» 
 old Troy road (not the 
 old Kent road), looking 
 about for Interesting 
 things. It was early 
 mornilng, and the bright 
 warm sun shone strong 
 and clear over the 
 snow-covered earth, making fields, 
 fences and housetops sparkle as if be- 
 decked with diamonds. The smoke 
 from many a farm chimney went 
 shooting straight heavenward like in- 
 cense in the frost-laden air, and there 
 was a wonderful quiet all around. Our 
 good friends the farmer.s are not es- 
 pecially early risers in the winter time, 
 though they may make up for It in 
 summer, and for some time along the 
 up hill and down dale road the only 
 sounds that greeted us as we pas.sed 
 farm house after farm house was the 
 patient mooing of the cows and the 
 harking of the collie dogs. But there 
 was life inside the houses, as the smoke 
 showed, and as our watch hands show- 
 ed beyond the half-past eiglit o'clock 
 all along the way w.-is dotted by the 
 figures of the youngsters hurrying off 
 to school. The school liell soon after- 
 ward broke the universal stillness, 
 and another day had begun in earnest. 
 
 * * * 
 I wanted to go into the schoolhouse 
 and have a talk with the teacher on 
 the subject of Ontario's school sys- 
 tem, but the artist, he wouldn't have 
 It that way. Just as soon as he dis- 
 covered he was in Troy his artistic 
 soul yearned to see the ruins of tlie 
 walls of the historic old place, and as 
 soon as he located these he bethought 
 him of the noble Helen and wanted 
 to knock at every door to see if she 
 might not be somewhere in hiding. 
 We asked at the postofflce, but they 
 said there wasn't a Helen any more in 
 Troy, so he had to be satisfied for the 
 time with his snow-covered walls and 
 an old stone bridge. The walls did 
 not at any time in their history sur- 
 
 round Troy, but marked the confines 
 of a grist mill, which, like maay an- 
 other, has had Its day and fallen In 
 the march of the ages. It stood at 
 the right of the main road, by a bridge 
 spanning a wide and fast flowing 
 creek, whose source was somewhere 
 north in the Beverly swamp. Just 
 below the bridge was a cascade, much 
 narrowed and made the more fierce 
 by Ice bounds, and below this again 
 was another old bridge, with loose, 
 piled stone supports and abutments. 
 These were enough for the artist for 
 a little while, and the writer left him 
 and wandered about to find something 
 more interesting. And he found It, or 
 rather him. 
 
 * • * 
 
 Thou (verpresent shadow in the path 
 
 of man. 
 Thy .steps are lagging, slow: 
 TliDU and thine icy bosom friend, 
 
 gaunt death. 
 Taint all with dissolution's clammy 
 l)reath, 
 And make men fear thee ere they 
 know 
 
 Old Age. 
 
 The children, nut yet entered in the 
 
 (•(iiirse uf life- 
 Vet full of youthful glee— 
 Oft see thy jxiwer in M'^andame's 
 
 trembling hand. 
 In grandpa's Mhakiiig iitn'*s as near 
 they stand — 
 All fuUsome evidence of i;i;e. 
 Old Age. 
 
 And thus thy darkening form is seen 
 
 thrtiugh all our life, 
 A spectral token drear 
 Of what we all must come to— every 
 
 una— 
 Before our life work here on earth is 
 done. 
 So thou and gaunt old death appear. 
 Old Age. 
 
 Directly alongside the school house in 
 Troy Is a little frame cottage set on 
 stone foundation that tells one of a 
 capacious cellar below. In the school 
 yard the youngest of the present gen- 
 
AN AVCIKNT THOJAN 
 
 •^5 
 
 in the 
 
 is seen 
 
 ADAM MISENER, THE CENTENAUIAN OF TROY 
 
i 
 
 l« i; 
 
 
 m 
 
 I! |l 
 
 I 
 
 
 126 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 eration play about; from the cottage 
 window In winter and leaning against 
 the line fence In summer the oldest 
 man In many a county watches them 
 and has pleasant thoughts of his own 
 childhood, so long gone from him. 
 This was my find, and a most happy 
 find It was, for though Uncle Adam 
 Misener is so old — ^99 years on Feb. 20 
 of this year— he is young enough in ac- 
 tivity to pass for a much younger 
 man, and in conversation is a most 
 delightful companion. When the 
 Psalmist wrote, "The days of our years 
 are three score years and ten; and If 
 by reason of strength they be four 
 score years, yet is their strength labor 
 and sorrow, for it is soon cut off and 
 we fly away," he certainly did not In- 
 clude Uncle Misener, for though he is 
 long past the allotted span of life's 
 years his strength, according to his 
 own statement, is not yet labor and 
 sorrow. 
 
 • • • 
 
 "I sawed and split all the wood we 
 are using last summer, besides attend- 
 ing to the garden," said he, cheerfully. 
 "Didn't it tire me? I wouldn't work 
 till I got tired. I would take rests In 
 between. But I will not be able to do 
 so much next summer," he went on. 
 And then he dramatically described 
 what he called 'his first stroke." It 
 came one day last fall when he was 
 alone in the diningroom lying on the 
 sofa. The room was warm and he had 
 been dosing. "I got up," he said, "to 
 open a door, but before I had taken a 
 step I lost my breath, and with the 
 feeling that my pulse had stopped 
 there was a great flash In my eyes and 
 I fell on the floor. I got over It all 
 right, but I haven't been the same 
 since, and have had one or two more 
 strokes. The doctor says It 
 would have settled me the first time 
 If it had been a little harder." 
 
 Uncle Adam comes of sturdy stock. 
 His grandfather, also named Adam, 
 was a Hollander, and came to America 
 In 1720, settling In New Jersey. One 
 of his sons, Nicholas— the father of the 
 present Adam— married a pretty Irish 
 girl named Jane McLean right after 
 the American revolution, and in 1793 
 he started out from New Jersey with 
 a yoke of oxen, ( ne cow, a mare, his 
 wife and a ten weeks' old baby to 
 tramp tc Canada. The wife rode on the 
 mare, whiCh was harnessed to the cow, 
 
 and carried the baby in her arms as 
 far as Oswego. From that port, just 
 to give dlverseness to the trip, the 
 father, mother and child boarded a 
 little vessel and set sail for Niagara, 
 sending the cattle around by shore. 
 They landed at Niagara on July 4, 1793, 
 and went to Crowland township. In 
 Welland county. After a stay of 40 
 days there the father walked to To- 
 ronto (then known as Little York), 
 took the oath of allegiance to the 
 British ruler, paid a fee of $4 and 
 walked back home, the happy pos- 
 sessor of a land patent. In Crowland 
 township he cut down the forest and 
 built him a log hut. There he cleared 
 land and planted apple tree seeds 
 which in time grew Into fine fruit trees, 
 some of which may be seen there yet. 
 And there also was Uncle Adam born. 
 
 Uncle Adam was a slip of a boy 
 when the battle of Lundy's Lane wa'o 
 fought, and as his father's house was 
 but very few miles from the scene of 
 hostilities, and he was around at the 
 time, he heard a good deal of the row, 
 though, like a good sensible boy, he 
 did not get in the thick of it. He will 
 tell you now, if you care to ask him 
 about it, how he and his sisters were 
 out in his father's field picking peas 
 on the day of the battle. They had 
 heard there was to be an engagement 
 Bcon and were looking for it. It start- 
 ed about half an hour before sundown, 
 and as the old man now says, with a 
 wave of his arms, "when I tell about 
 it I get the same feeling I had then." 
 The first noise the youngsters heard 
 was the bang of a "2-pounder which 
 nearly soared them ou* of their wits. 
 Then came a rattle like hai! on a roof, 
 dyinr;: away and coming tliicker and 
 faster, just as the storm might increase 
 01 subside. This was the musketry dis. 
 charge, and every once in a while 
 would roar out like a great thunder 
 peal the big piece of ordnance. 
 
 Afterward the children went to the 
 battle ground, saw the blood-stained 
 earth, counted 42 bullet holes in one 
 fence rail, gathered a great stcire of 
 emptied cartridges and went home 
 with their little hearts sorrowful and 
 their minds full of wonderment, just 
 the same as little Peterkin. 
 * * * 
 
 One day when he was a small boy 
 
AN ANCIENT TKOJAN 
 
 27 
 
 arms as 
 ort, juat 
 rip, the 
 arded a 
 Niagara, 
 y shore. 
 ly 4, 1793, 
 ship, In 
 ay of 40 
 1 to To- 
 e York), 
 : to the 
 $4 and 
 py pos- 
 ZJrowland 
 (rest and 
 e cleared 
 ee seeds 
 •ult trees, 
 here yet. 
 am born. 
 
 >f a boy 
 Lane wa:^ 
 ouse was 
 scene of 
 id at the 
 : the row, 
 boy, he 
 , He will 
 
 aslc htm 
 ters were 
 <ing peas 
 They had 
 gagement 
 
 It start- 
 sundown, 
 '3, with a 
 tell about 
 ad then." 
 ers heard 
 ier wliich 
 heir wits. 
 on a roof, 
 icker and 
 t increase 
 iketry dis_ 
 
 a while 
 thunder 
 ce. 
 
 t 
 
 nt to the 
 od-stained 
 es In one 
 t store of 
 ent home 
 owful and 
 Tient, just 
 
 small boy 
 
 Uncle Adam lost the sight of one eye. 
 It happened In a peculiar way, too. He 
 was playing knife with some other 
 boys, and when he came to "eyes" 
 the blade of his knife went too far, 
 blotting out the sight forever. When 
 one considers that even now at 99 
 years of age Uncle Adam Is just be- 
 ginning to use glasses, though for 
 nearly all his life the strain of sight 
 
 knots for torches, and one night, when 
 my partner quit work, he went right 
 home instead of calling at my house 
 and waking me up. When he left he 
 threw the pine-knot embers into the 
 creek, as he thought. A little while 
 afterwards I woke up and my room 
 was all of a glare. I looked out of the 
 window just in time to see the mill 
 roof fall in and a great sheet of flame 
 
 ■ i&HiU 
 
 
 
 ^jj-" 
 
 
 tf 
 
 
 —l^V'-iPp 
 
 RUINS OF THE OLD MILL. 
 
 has been upon one eye, one cannot but 
 wonder. 
 
 • * • 
 
 "March 13, eighteen and eighteen," 
 as he puts it himself, was the time 
 when the old man first came to Bever- 
 ly. There were at that time seven 
 families in the place and sixty-three 
 names on the assessment roll, and 
 forest abounded everywhere. Like 
 nearly everyone else in those early 
 days. Uncle Adam had to have a mill 
 of some kind. He had a saw mill, and 
 with it bad luck. It had been running 
 but a month when It burned down with 
 all the product of the month's sav/ing. 
 He tells how the flre occurred: "I 
 went in with another young man in 
 the mill business, nnd we kept it run- 
 ning all the time, he working from 
 noon till midnight and I from mid- 
 night till noon. At night we used pine 
 
 catch the piles of lumber we had cut. 
 
 The pine-knot embers got into some 
 
 sawdust." 
 
 « * • 
 
 Three years after settling there 
 Uncle Adam married Miss Mary Mil- 
 ler, who died five years «■ 'torward. In 
 3831 he married Miss Ellen Coleman, 
 who died in April, 1895, at the good old 
 rge of ninety-five years. Ten children 
 were the joy of Uncle Adam's wedded 
 life, and but one of them has died as 
 yet. The sturdiness of the Mlsener 
 stock may he judged when it is said 
 that of twelve brothers and sisters, of 
 V hlch Adam is one, all but two have 
 lived to be over eighty years old. One 
 of these two died young of scarlet 
 fever and the other at seventy-nine 
 yrars. A sister— Elizabeth— died a 
 month ago, having reached ninety- 
 three years, and now Uncle Adam Is 
 
 I 
 
if 
 
 ii 
 
 i\ : 
 
 'I ;•■ 
 
 128 
 
 WENTWOKTH LANDMARKS 
 
 the only one left of his father's fam- 
 ily. But he has perpetuated his fam- 
 ily's name, for last November there 
 were in the little cottage at dinner no 
 Ipss than five generations represent- 
 ed. Mrs. Clement, 271 Mary street, is 
 a daughter of Uncle Adam. 
 
 I cannot begin to tell you all the In- 
 teresting talk I had with the old man 
 as we sat by his kitchen fire that 
 morning. He told me, and I can readily 
 believe It from the steadiness of his 
 hand, that he shaves himself yet. I 
 learned that all his long life he has 
 been a staunch Reformer in politics, 
 and but twice since 1818 has missed 
 
 recording his vote for Reform candi- 
 dates. He admitted that he would 
 like very much to live till he had 
 passed the 100 year mark, though he 
 sometimes thinks that one of those 
 strokes will carry him off before that 
 time comes. I gave him a paper to 
 read, and as he sat by the fire the 
 artist, back from his ruined walls and 
 his search for Helen, sketched him as 
 he sat, he not knowing 4 thing about 
 it, so Interested was he in reading 
 about the developments of the Cretan 
 trouble. Goodly, kindly old Uncle 
 Adam: may he live to pass the century 
 mark. J. E. W. 
 
 h I 
 
 i 
 
 ' 
 
 i}i^ 
 
 A 
 
 \ 
 
 X 
 
 '^'4u 
 
 i^' 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 
 
 ?^?Iliri=.- 
 
 -f 
 
 =':} 
 
 . I! 
 
 A TKOJAX HKIUGE. 
 
 
im 
 
 WHERE THE BATTLE WAS FOUGHT 
 
 Saltflcct's Claim to Historic Remembrance. ^ The Battle- 
 Ground and Its Environs. ^^ The Romantic Ravine at 
 Albion Mills. ^ A Post Mortem on Certain Stony 
 Creek Remains. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 A HATTI.EFIELD OK lSl2 
 
 i i 
 
 i : 
 
 i'! 
 
 Travelers who journey to Niagara 
 Falls or the villages and towns between 
 on the Queen's highway, cannot fail 
 to have noticed, a short distance west 
 of Stony Creek and to the south of the 
 road, a long, rambling sort of wooden 
 structure which would not present an 
 apiifarance of habitation, were it not 
 that the surroundings of vineyards, 
 apple and peach trees and other 
 products of luscious fruit show that 
 man is somewhere very near, and that, 
 in all likelihood, he is to be found In 
 the big wooden building before men- 
 tioned. That frame structure, odd as 
 it looks, has a history, and a lively 
 one; the chief events being connected 
 with the great battle of Stony Creek 
 In 1812. In and around that house oc- 
 curred some strange events, such as 
 have, not infrequently, changed the 
 whole course of a country's history. 
 
 That big, wooden house, 84 years 
 ago, was the homestead of James Gage 
 and the scene of the repulse of the 
 American soldiers, under Glen. Winder, 
 by Col. Harvey and his small force of 
 I3ritisher3 and faithful Indians. But 
 for that set-back for the American 
 troops, Canada — or this part of it — 
 might have been a northern hump on 
 the back of the great American repub- 
 lic, geographically speaking. In those 
 days of guerilla warfare the face of 
 nature on all sides of the Gage farm 
 presented a different aspect from what 
 It does to-day. Then, the road wound 
 around to the south of the big wooden 
 house and Gage's store close by, while 
 the present roadway had not evoluted 
 from the cedar swamp that spread It- 
 self to the north. Because or these 
 things. Gage's home was picked out by 
 the American officers as being both 
 commodious and comfortable and also 
 commanding an excellent view of the 
 surrounding country. True, nature 
 took a rise out of It a little to the 
 south, but the hill failed to have the 
 compensating comforts of a home, and 
 the Yankees were not dwellers in tents, 
 especially when they could get such a 
 
 nice, cosey place as Gage's, with the 
 concomitant of having plenty to eat. 
 
 It is an old, old story, familiar to 
 many, that lingers round and about the 
 old homestead of the Gages. The 
 winds that whistled under the eaves, 
 along the big verandas and round 
 the chimneys tell it, the floors and the 
 stairways tell It, and the surrounding 
 landscape bears mute testimony to the 
 stirring events of that time. One day 
 the Americans oame along, and Gen. 
 Winder and his ofRcers took possession 
 of the Gage house, turning the owner 
 and his family into the cellar. That 
 night, when the Yankees least ei-.pected 
 It. the British and the Indians came 
 down upon them. The Indians, with 
 their yells and war whoops, made the 
 Americans fear several tribes of red 
 men were upon them, and they fled in 
 double-quick order. 
 
 The famous and historical house will 
 be seen no more in its present form, 
 as the present owner, D. A. Fletcher, 
 has torn down one half of the build- 
 nig and converted what was left into 
 a more modern structure. Standing, 
 as it did, on rising ground, the house's 
 prominence brought out more plainly 
 Its venerable and nearly-a-century air. 
 It had not worn a coat — that Is, a coat 
 of paint — for several years, perhaps 
 not less than forty, and there was a" 
 decided let-me-lean-agalnst-j'ou style 
 from one end to the other of the por- 
 tion facing the road. The building was 
 70 feet long and 30 feet wide. On the 
 north side was a piazza, running the 
 length of the house, which was of two 
 stories. The front of the building, 
 which still faces south, as it did when 
 the road ran a short distance from It, 
 had a piazza and a veranda running 
 along more than two-thirds of it. 
 Years ago, a former owner, Col. Nelson, 
 added to the single story, and the front 
 has the appearance of two houses, the 
 western portion having a doorway with 
 a somewhat ornate arch — as orna- 
 mentation went in those days. 
 
 So much for the exterior. The in- 
 
A BATTLEFIELD OK l8l2 
 
 131 
 
 OLD FRONT OF HEADQUAUTEUS, NOW THE BACK OF THE HOUSE. 
 
 terior was very much what would be 
 expected from such a big structure. 
 Taking the basement first, the visitor 
 descended to it on big blocks of stone 
 for steps. The earthen floor showed 
 that many thousands of feet had 
 passed over it, for It was hard as a 
 rock. The cellars were roomy and not 
 so bad a place for a refuge. In the 
 eastern end of the basement the 
 Gages made their home, while the Am- 
 erican officers bad possession of the 
 upper rooms and had a pleasant time, 
 when they were not dodging bullets. 
 In the northeast corner of the cellar 
 was a sort of recess, In which James 
 Gage made his bed during the dark 
 days of the Yankees' visit. Up-stairs 
 were big hallways, roomy corridors 
 ond apartments of large size. There 
 was enough room in the corridors and 
 hails to find room for several families. 
 The rooms had no striking feature, 
 and how much they had been changed 
 since the days of the Gages cannot be 
 told. One large room of that time is 
 now divided into two by a partition. 
 
 A locksmith of nowadays would look 
 with horror upon the locks and keys 
 used in that house. Under the stairs 
 in the main portion of the building was 
 a cupboard, which has a history, and 
 also a lock and key to make the lock- 
 smith's stout heart quail. The case of 
 the lock was nearly two inches across, 
 and the bolt was big enough to be used 
 in a hank safe. The key — well, there 
 was material in it for several keys of 
 the 1S96 pattern. The shank was nearly 
 
 an inch thick, and several inches long. 
 They say the keysmith was a black- 
 smith; the key bears out the state- 
 ment. 
 
 Although it was wood, wood every- 
 where in the old building, there was 
 no likelihood that anything less than 
 an earthquake would bring it down. 
 One reason for its stability was that 
 every three feet, along the whole length 
 of the east end, a beam 12x12 ijiches 
 was placed across the structure; while 
 down in the cellar at one end was an 
 Immense slab of stone, a foot thick 
 and twelve to fifteen feet long, which 
 made a portion of the foundation. 
 
 Another relic of the past soon disap- 
 peared with the half of the old house 
 — James Gage's old store, which now 
 stands a short distance away to the 
 southwest. It Is now nothing but a 
 shell and will make good kindling 
 wood. Along the front, over the front 
 door, can yet be faintly seen the words: 
 "J. Gage's Store." Some time ago they 
 were painted out, and soon the whole 
 concern will be blotted out. 
 
 Opposite the big house is shown the 
 stump of a tree to which was speared 
 by the Indians one of the American 
 sentries. A short distance away was 
 found what appears to be a spear- 
 head, although it is not said it is the 
 identical one that impaled the Yankee 
 Soldier. 
 
 A visit to the old home is not com- 
 plete without a climb to the top of the 
 hill at the rear, down which the In- 
 dians ran and scared off the American 
 
132 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 scldiers that night. Mr. Fletcher, the 
 prt-eent owner of the house and land, 
 aays that with the aid of a telescope, 
 on a fine day, Hamilton, Toronto, 
 (juelph and St. Catharines can be 
 seen. Mr. Fletcher came Into posses- 
 
 sion of the property last May, and be- 
 fore him it belonged to the Gage, Nel- 
 son, Glover, Williams and Fisher fam- 
 ilies, Mr. Fletcher purchasing it from 
 George S. Fisher. 
 
 i I 
 
 '■ i 
 ! * 
 
 ( 
 
 1 and 2— Look on cellar door, 10 inches long. 3— Key, 6 inches long. 4— Fluted brass door latch. 
 6— Wrought iron extension pot hook, used at soldiers camp Are. 6— Sword or spear blade, found 
 under the tree where one of the sentries was buried. 
 
and be- 
 ige, Nel- 
 her fam- 
 
 It from 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 ALBION MILLS U A V I N E 
 
 i door latch. 
 )lade, found 
 
 There's a fascination frantic 
 In a ruin that's romantic. 
 Do you think this is sufficiently de- 
 cayed? 
 
 HE South Rid- 
 ing of Went- 
 worth, from a 
 picturesque and 
 historic point of 
 view, presents no 
 point of greater 
 interest and 
 beauty than the 
 Mount Albion 
 ravine, at the 
 head of which 
 stands the grist 
 mill, and, on the 
 level ground 
 above it, the remains of other build- 
 ings erected early In the present cen- 
 tury. The road which leads around 
 it is a favorite drive, consequently the 
 plare is familiar to the residents of 
 both town and country. To see it at 
 its most Impressive, when it forms a 
 picture not soon or easily forgotten, 
 is to see it when the nights are moon- 
 lit, when the "lamp of heaven" swings 
 just high enough to throw long lanes 
 of light to the bottom of the dark ra- 
 vine. Standing on the bridge which 
 spans the water where it takes its 
 first leap downward, one might fancy 
 the silent mill a fortress, guarding 
 grimly the mouth of the pass. The 
 pass Itself — half hidden, half revealed— 
 l^ filled with strange, lurking figures, 
 and a suppressed murmur of voices. 
 Wo know the figures are only shadows 
 cast by the somber swaying pines, and 
 the voices are the voices of nature em- 
 bodied in the trees, and running water; 
 yet heard In connection with the idea 
 of a fortress, they make us think of 
 soldiers preparing for the attack, in 
 obedience to orders passed along th* 
 line. Aided by imagination the sounds 
 take meaning and grow distinctly on 
 the ear. A ray of moonlight flashes 
 on some bright object among the 
 
 shadows. Firearms surely! and in- 
 stinctively we turn, half expecting to 
 hear an awful salute from the fortress. 
 An owl hoots dismally that weird note 
 which turns the thoughts to death and 
 disaster. The grey bird flits past the 
 face of a rock that rises to a height 
 of SO feet, and from the top of which a 
 young girl cast herself to death, rather 
 than face desertion on the part of her 
 lover, who, when the wedding feast was 
 ready, failed to appear. Out of the 
 gloom where the bird has vanished 
 comes another mournful cry and the 
 gorge Is filled with ghostly echoes 
 
 We are now in a mood to thoroughly 
 believe all the tales in connection with 
 a house that once stood a short dis- 
 tance from the mill, and of which noth- 
 ing remains but a part of the chim- 
 ney and a reputation for having been 
 "haunLed." One of the stories, clearly 
 authenticated, is that a woman who 
 was sleeping one night in an upper 
 loom of the house, awoke suddenly to 
 find the clothes slipping from the bed. 
 S'he pulled them up. and again, as if 
 drawn by an unseen hand, they went 
 slowly creeping towards the foot of the 
 bed. Three times was this repeated, 
 and the third time the process was ac- 
 companied by an Impatient jerk. The 
 woman shrieked and fied down the 
 stair, where she fell in a swoon from 
 which she did not recover for hours. 
 Another story runs In this wise: A 
 gentleman whose name I shall not pub- 
 lish, but who Is a good judge of the 
 supernatural, was driving with some 
 ladies past the house after dark. The 
 horses suddenly stopped and snorted 
 as if in terror. An apparition (white, 
 of crurse), passed by the side of the 
 can i«ige. The ladles screamed and the 
 gentleman valiantly struck at it with 
 his whip. The whip lash cut right 
 through it, without causing Its ghost- 
 ship any apparent Inconvenience, for 
 It continued on its way to the house, 
 ar.d the horses, relieved of its presence, 
 started on again. By daylight our im- 
 
■HB 
 
 i i 
 
 U: 
 
 ■\ 
 
 I 
 
 ■b 
 
 134 
 
 WENTVVORTII I-ANDMAKKS 
 
 pressions of the place are less roman- 
 tic, and more realistic. The hum of 
 machinery and the dumping of bags 
 over the mill door is a scene which 
 does not admit of any frills of fancy. We 
 even gaze on the "Lovers' Leap" with 
 nineteenth century apathy, and think 
 for what a trifle a woman will cast 
 away life! Let us hope that for Jane 
 Riley "the bitter lesson taught by 
 time" will be sweetened, in an eternity 
 blest by the presence of "Joseph," and 
 all danger of further trouble avoided 
 by the fact that there is there "no 
 marrying or giving In marriage." 
 
 Alas, poor Jane Riley, for Joseph she 
 
 did die 
 By Jumping off that dizzy brink full 
 
 sixty cubits high. —Slater. 
 
 The above lines are all that is avail- 
 
 able of a poem (?) written by one 
 Slater, at the time of the sad occur- 
 rence. In speaking of Slater my in- 
 formant said: "He was a smart man 
 and did not know it." I carefully made 
 a note of it. Slater should be one of 
 the features of picturesque and historic 
 Wentworth. "A smart man" is rare 
 enough; but "a smart man unconsci- 
 ous of his smartness" should be re- 
 
ALBION MILLS RAVINE 
 
 '.VS 
 
 :n\ 
 
 garded as an antique, if not, Indeed. 
 as an extinct species. Joseph's mother 
 said: "Let the blame rest on my should- 
 ers," which was very magnanimous; 
 and goes to prove that, like the aver- 
 age mother-in-law-elect, she objected 
 to her son's choice of a wife. Some 
 years later, when in apparently good 
 health, she suddenly shrieked: "Jane's 
 hand Is on my shoulder," and fell dead 
 on the floor. Jane had evidently taken 
 
 for John Sccord by a millwright whoso 
 descendants have made the name 
 familiar throughout the country. 
 Squire Secord employed as a miller a 
 colored man named Owen. One Sat- 
 urda.v the millwright happened into 
 the mill, and detecting with practiced 
 ear an unusual sound, ordered the mil- 
 ler to stop a certain stone. Owen de- 
 murred. He was willing to take 
 chances on the stone, and his employer 
 
 r^ia 
 
 
 > 
 
 
 'ft!iiil!!lli;2L''_ 
 
 |!^a-«,::fT«Sr 
 
 - — , ^^ ■■'''■■ il' |7 ?!- \\' 
 
 --'7-. a, _..,.. 
 
 
 A VERY OLD WAREHOUSE. 
 
 her at her word. As for the ghost- 
 rldden house, we refused to listen to 
 explanations, though we are inclined 
 to agree with Dickens when he says: 
 "They were afraid of the house and 
 believed in its being haunted; and yet 
 they would play false on the haunting 
 side so surely as they got an oppor- 
 tunity. The Odd girl was In a state 
 of real terror, and yet she invented 
 many of the alarms she spread and 
 made many of the sounds we heard." 
 
 It Is difficult to find out just when 
 the first mill was built at Mount Al- 
 bion. There was one there In 1814 
 which was repaired and set in order 
 
 agreed with him. For the sequel I can- 
 not do better than give it in the exact 
 words of "Hans:" "It was very tempt- 
 ing to the miller to let the mill run 
 on till Sunday morning. He felt a lit- 
 tle guilty, but there was a fine head 
 of water, and the mill was making 
 rapid work. When daylight looked in 
 at the windows his guilty sensations 
 sat more lightly upon him. Pretty 
 soon, before the neighbors had risen to 
 witness his transgressions, he would 
 shut off the water. Leaving the stone 
 flat he went below, where the chopped 
 grain was being discharged. While 
 there a fearful crash was heard above 
 —a sudden vibration and a hiss which 
 sent a thrill of horror through him. He 
 
 
 & 
 
1 
 
 '! f ' 
 
 Wl 
 
 : ; 
 
 I i 
 
 136 
 
 WENTWORTH LAXDMAHKS 
 
 
 .,... f^ '' ' 
 
 ''t-y¥^. 
 
 THE LOVERS' LEAP. 
 
 sprang to an open window, through it, 
 and up the hill as fast as his legs would 
 carry him. Gasping for breath he 
 looked down on the mill. Guilt and 
 fear had nearly overpowered him. By 
 and bye he ventured back and thrust 
 his head through the open window. 
 He saw no smoke and smelt no brim- 
 stone. So creeping to the foot of the 
 
 stair he found one half of the mill- 
 stone poised at the top, while the other 
 had gone Into a bin of grain." Others 
 affirm that the negro turned white with 
 fright, and never quite returned to his 
 original color. At any rate he was 
 never again "cotched" breaking the 
 Sabbath. The next to own the mill was 
 Peter Reed, whose sons, Adam and 
 Peter Reed, the latter ex-reeve of 
 Saltfleet, are now resident In the town- 
 ship. He, while quarrying a pit for a 
 new mill wheel, struck a vein of gas, 
 which, however, was not utilised until 
 the property became Mr. Crooks', when 
 it was piped and brought In to light the 
 mill. They also attempted to carry it 
 to the storeroom, which is a very old 
 building indeed, and every nail used in 
 the building of it hand wrought. Mr. 
 Cook, whose son, James Cook, owns the 
 property, suffered great losses by fire. 
 He had a large farm as well as the 
 mill property, and his barns were burn- 
 ed to the ground three times about the 
 year i860. A number of horses and 
 cattle were destroyed each time. In 
 fact, all that was in the buildings, 
 with the exception of one horse, which, 
 unaided, struggled out of the flames, 
 but with both eyes completely destroy- 
 ed. After the third fli-e suspicion of 
 incendiarism fell on an inmate of the 
 house, a girl whom the Scotch would 
 call "a natural," and who was employ- 
 ed to do rough work about the 
 kitchen. She imagined that her rights 
 were not properly defined, and took 
 this way of adjusting the matter. One 
 narrator says it was because her mis- 
 tress would not allow her to share her 
 bed with a youthful and orphaned pig. 
 She was anested and taken to Hamil- 
 ton. Not being in the days of patrol 
 wagons, constable and prisoner walked 
 together along the street. A friend 
 of the former met them, and having 
 some information to impart to the con- 
 stable, stopped him. He said to his 
 prisoner: "Walk on a few steps and I 
 will catch you." He hasn't caught her 
 yet. TONY REEK. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 EAUI.V DAYS IN SALTKLEE l' 
 
 Liafien, ye men of the cities, 
 
 To a page from the long ago, 
 Nor deem it a thousand pities 
 
 That the story's simple flow 
 Throbs not with the blood of warfare, 
 
 Political heat and strife, 
 But is only a homely record 
 
 Of the early settler's life. 
 
 ND It came to pass 
 that there rose up 
 out of the land of 
 the Philistines, one 
 named Adam, whose 
 surname was Green. 
 After Journeying 
 many days he 
 came to the creek 
 which is called Stony, and flows 
 through the land of promise, and there 
 he abode, he and his children and his 
 grandchildren, even unto the fourth 
 and fifth generation. Otherwise, or in 
 nineteenth century parlance, Ensign 
 Green, of Gen. Burgoyne's army, left 
 his home in the state of New Jersey 
 and came to the province of Ontario, 
 where on June 11, In the year 1791, he 
 staked his claim and became the first 
 settler in that part of the country 
 known later as the village of Stony 
 Creek. To his grandson, Samuel Green, 
 a gentleman vigorous in mind and 
 body, and bordering on 80 years, I am 
 indebted for my knowledge of many 
 incidents, handed down from father to 
 son, in connection with the pioneers of 
 the township of Saltfleet. "Why did he 
 leave New Jersey?" came as a natural 
 question. "Because he had to,", was 
 the blunt reply. This was refreshing, 
 and furnished food for thought. Hav- 
 ing been taught to regard the U. E. 
 Loyalist as a man who, for pure love 
 of the mother country, had, when the 
 United States gained their independ- 
 ence, shaken the dust of republicanism 
 from his loyal feet, and of his own free 
 will and accord had turned him to a 
 land that seeks no greater Independ- 
 ence than that furnished by the pro- 
 tection of the British crown, to say 
 
 that he left "because he had to" strips 
 the U. E. L. of the romantic halo 
 through which he shines a splendid 
 figure of faithful adherence to allegi- 
 ance. 
 
 * * • 
 
 In the days of the early settlers scien- 
 tific cooking would have labored under 
 difficulties. Wheat ground by hand 
 In a hollowed buttonwood log, and sift- 
 ed through a wolf skin, which, punched 
 full of small holes and stretched on a 
 wooden frame served the purpose of a 
 sieve, turned out a brand of flour that 
 a scientific cook wouldn't care to fool 
 with. Such an one was the mill made 
 by Adam Green, and the settlers as 
 they gathered in and formed a neigh- 
 borhood had either to use it or shoulder 
 their grain and take the Mohawk trail 
 to Niagara, where even there It was 
 not sifted, only ground. Succeeding 
 this primitive affair, and during the 
 next 40 or 50 years, nine different mills 
 were erected on the creek north of the 
 falls. At that time the volume of 
 water was great enough to turn a 
 mill wheel all through the summer 
 months. Now its feeble trickle dries 
 up completely, and Its course is naught 
 but a bed of stones at that season of 
 the year. Some day, when even that is 
 filled up and built over, and all trace 
 of the creek erased, future generations 
 will wonder to what the place is in- 
 debted for its name. People from 
 commonplace, thriving villages fiout 
 the idea of a future growth, and jeer 
 at our stagnation and our toll gate. 
 Let them! Stony Creek will live in 
 history when the thrifty village that 
 never had a battle ground or a toll gate 
 is forgotten. We don't deny its broken- 
 down, out-at-elbows look. That is its 
 patent of nobility. It is only plebian- 
 ism that must needs look sleek and re- 
 spectable. 
 
 * * * 
 
 The children of the first settlers had 
 peculiar school privileges. Their teach- 
 ers were mostly men from the Eastern 
 
'3» 
 
 WKNTWORTH I.A.VI>My\HKS 
 
 RUINS OF THE OLD CHURCH AT STONY CREEK. 
 
 States who, traveling westward, would 
 engage a room In some log dwelling 
 house and announce their Intention of 
 keeping a school for a term of three 
 months. Each scholar signed an agree- 
 ment to pay so much, and the teacher 
 dealt out knowledge In proportion to 
 the amount paid, and "boarded round" 
 among the families. Some of the teach- 
 ers were Puritans. Others were men 
 out of the army, who flogged the boys 
 most unmercifully, believing that the 
 absorption of knowledge Is made easier 
 if taken with large doses of beech gad. 
 School books were a scarce article anl 
 writing material consisted of a quill 
 F-en, and for Ink the juice of the 
 equawberry. The first school house 
 ei-ected bore over the door the date 
 1822. After that better teachers were 
 available, but it was at considerably 
 later date than the building of the 
 school that geographies were intro- 
 duced, and also Kirkham's grammar. 
 In those days the minister of education 
 wasn't continually grinding out scho<'l 
 books and Bibles to suit the timer,; nor 
 teachers with relentless faces ordering 
 
 the last grist from the educational 
 mill. The first school house and the 
 first church, or Methodist chapel, were 
 built in different corners of the present 
 burying ground. Not a trace of them 
 remalneth. Even the second erections 
 for teacher and preacher are in ruins. 
 
 Spiritually the wants of the peop'.e 
 were provided for in much the same 
 way as their schooling. Once in two 
 or three months a Methodist preacher 
 or "circuit rider," oame In from 
 Niagara and delivered a sermon 
 straight from the shoulder. Lacking 
 that, they ministered to each other. 
 Kent and Gorman, settlers who follow- 
 ed close on the heels of Green, being 
 the presiding elders. On one occasion 
 the promised preacher not having ar- 
 rived, prayer and praise were conduct- 
 ed by Mr. Kent. Upon leaving the 
 church they were confronted with the 
 following lines, painted with lamp- 
 black on a shingle and set up at the 
 door: 
 
 
I 
 
 KAUI.V I»AVS IN SAI/rKLliKT 
 
 M> 
 
 ducational 
 i and the 
 iai>e!, were 
 he present 
 !e of them 
 I erections 
 in ruins. 
 
 the people 
 the same 
 ice In two 
 t preacher 
 In from 
 a sermon 
 Lacking 
 Eich other, 
 ho follow - 
 een, being 
 e occasion 
 lavlng ar- 
 e conduct- 
 ivlng the 
 I with the 
 th lamp- 
 up at the 
 
 On a certain Sabbath day, 
 
 There came no jjreacher with us to 
 
 pray; 
 So Satan, out of pity, sent 
 His faithful servant. William Kent. 
 
 Which would ar.iue that Mr. Kent 
 
 had an enemy. 
 
 • • • 
 
 The oldest butldinic in the village is 
 the Exchange hotel. Its exterior has 
 been somewhat altered, but in many 
 reapet I" the same as when built 
 
 In 181 .nother, the Canada house, 
 
 wan built in the nelKhborhood of 65 
 
 slowly on the veranda. Naturally, cas. 
 ual visitors decided at a glnnce that 
 the Canada house was doint; the busi- 
 ness of the place. Hostelrlos were as 
 thick as blackberries half a century 
 ago, and, owing to the large .iinount of 
 toaming, drove a thriving trade. Now 
 those old buildings are an eyesore, 
 gaunt and hungry looking, and totter- 
 ing to decay — with, of course, a few ex- 
 ceptions. 
 
 * • • 
 
 Very few of the old dwelling houses 
 arc left standing. One, the \'an Wag- 
 
 THE VAN WAONEU HOMESTEAD, 
 
 years ago. It boasted a dark room, 
 and doubtless many gentlemen of Ham- 
 ilton, prominent In political circles, 
 have pleasant recollections of holding 
 "a flush" or a "full house" within Its 
 friendly seclusion. One of the pi prie. 
 tors of its early days was wont to 
 spread his web with consummate skill 
 for the trapping of unwary travelers. 
 He had two vehicles which he kept In 
 the yard to make It appear that the 
 stable was full. To one of these he 
 would hitch his horse before anyone 
 else was astir in the morning, and drive 
 up and down, up and down, before the 
 house, the numerous tracks Just made 
 making it look as though a great deal 
 of traffic stopped at his door. Then on 
 tho principle of throwing a sprat to 
 catch a salmon, the usual loafers were 
 given cigars and told to smoke them 
 
 ner house. Is still to the fore, and in 
 close proximity to the modern resi- 
 dence occupied by Townsend Van 
 Wagner and family. It was built 80 
 years ago by the father of the oldest 
 present generation, a man who, as one 
 of his descendants expresses it, "came 
 t3 this country backwards," having 
 rowed in a rowboat all the way from 
 Albany, N.Y. His family are too well 
 known to make further comment neces- 
 sary; and I feel while dwelling on 
 these incidents of the past that I may 
 be spoiling material that under Hans' 
 treatment would have been a thing of 
 beauty and a Joy forever. From Col. 
 Van Wagner, should the occasion arise, 
 we may expect to see the fruits of the 
 spirit which animated his ancestors 
 when they fought for the British gov- 
 ernment in the wars of the revolution. 
 
m 
 
 sssaisf^s 
 
 140 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 m I 
 
 v.i 
 
 THE RED HHiL ROAD. 
 
 li IP 
 
 I 
 
 While on the subject of schools I for- 
 got to make mention of one that 30 or 
 40 years ago was considered the best 
 country school in the county. I refer 
 to the one known, as its successor also 
 is, as the "Red Hill school" — called so 
 from the color and texture of the soil 
 which forms the bluff on which the 
 school house stands. In those days the 
 attendance averaged 100, and such 
 teachers as Harte, Smith and Cameron 
 (now Rev. T. Cameron, of Toronto), 
 were employed at a salary of $500 a 
 year. They grounded the older schol- 
 ars in Greek roots and Latin verbs, 
 and turned out pupils that have since 
 done credit to themselves and their 
 early teaching. Aid. Henry Car^callen, 
 Q.C., was an attendant for some years, 
 and his father was trustee of the 
 school for more than half a century. 
 
 Ex-AVarden J. W. Jardine and ex- 
 Vv''6rden J. W, Gage are familiar 
 names that were on the old school 
 roll, only, of course, without the pre- 
 fix which signifies municipal honors. 
 
 Fifty years ago the red clay 
 or chalk before mentioned was 
 used for making figures on the 
 blackboard, which consisted of some 
 roughly planed pine boards railed to 
 the wall. The building itseif was 
 wooden, and part of It moved from Its 
 foundation serves as a woodshed in 
 connection with the new school house 
 of to-day. The road leading past it 
 was an Indian trail leading from Lake 
 Ontario to the Grand river. It is pic- 
 turesque in the extreme, particularly 
 in the region of A'^ine Vale farm and 
 round about Mount Albion. When the 
 world was younger (we will not be par- 
 ticular as to dates), that part of the 
 road was not thought safe to travel on 
 after sundown. The cry of the wolver. 
 ine and "painter" was often heard at 
 nightfall, and different men could tell 
 thrilling tales of hairbreadth escapes. 
 The trees hung )ver the roads on both 
 sides, -nd one night Col. Gourlay, rid- 
 ing ba». . on h<>rseback, heard an omin- 
 ous rustling in the branches overhead. 
 
 Uf 
 
EAKI.V DAYS IN SALTFLEET 
 
 M' 
 
 
 'e..-. 
 
 ed clay- 
 ed was 
 
 on the 
 
 of some 
 i^alled to 
 seif was 
 
 from its 
 dshed in 
 Dol house 
 past It 
 •om Lake 
 It is plc- 
 rticularly 
 arm and 
 Vhen the 
 )t be par- 
 r-t of the 
 travel on 
 e wolver- 
 heard at 
 tould tell 
 
 escapes. 
 
 on both 
 rlay, rid- 
 an omin- 
 )verhead. 
 
 followed by that terrible cry, half 
 warning, wholly defiant. The colonel 
 rode a little further down the road, dis- 
 mounted and tied his horse. Before the 
 fierce wild animal in the tree knew 
 what it was all about, he was looking 
 into the business end of a revolver, and 
 with a very determined man at the 
 other end of it. He came down out of 
 the tree, and unlike the generality of 
 wild animals, had two legs instead of 
 four. From that night the road was 
 free of wolverines and "painters." 
 
 It has even been called picturesque. 
 To prove it I will tell of a remark 
 
 feet was "hitting the pipe." In the 
 gutter and on the veranda played a 
 group of dirty children; dogs basked 
 dreamily in the sun. The lady was 
 delighted. "It looks," said she, "like 
 one of those dear, dirty Italian vil- 
 lages." As an example of the small- 
 ness of human nature, we, who a mo- 
 ment before were going to disclaim all 
 knowledge of the place and pretend we 
 lived at Winona or on the mountain — 
 anywhere — took the compllmenr as a 
 compliment to ourselves, and began to 
 point out other interesting "bits." Mod. 
 esty forbade us, however, claiming kin. 
 
 
 --^^ 
 
 n/=. ... 
 
 OLD HOUSE ON THE BATTLKti.ELD. 
 
 Tiiis building is on the uorth side of the road and was in existence some time before the 
 battle wan fouglit. 
 
 made by a lady — a southern lady — 
 traveling from Hamilton to Grimsby 
 camp ground via the H., G. and B. 
 The car stopped at the company's wait, 
 ing room, which is situated in a part 
 of the village calculated to impress a 
 stranger with a sense of its pictur- 
 esque loveliness. Next 'lOor to it is a 
 building, once an hotul (se« sketch), 
 then a boarding house for navvies 
 working on the construction of the T., 
 H. and B. The roof of the veranda 
 was on this occasion covered with 
 orange peels, banana skins and other 
 refuse of a fruity nature. At a win- 
 dow appeared a pair of very large bare 
 feet, presumably the property of a 
 person uom under warmer skies than 
 ours, being a study in brown. 
 Wreaths of smoke curled from the win- 
 dow In evidence that the owner of the 
 
 ship with the owner of the feet. Visit- 
 ors of a material nature, who see no 
 beauty except when it represents dol- 
 lars and cents' worth, we take up into 
 a high mountain (like Satan), and show 
 them the country lying between it 
 and the lake. It is a picture which 
 never fails to call forth exclamations 
 of delight, as, indeed, how could it 
 fail to do? And if It happens to be 
 summer time the pleasure of the visitor 
 Is redoubled. Vineyards and orchards 
 stretching to the east and west fur- 
 on the north side ly the lake and a blue 
 Ifne of hills. To tiie south peach trees 
 and lusty grape vines clamber up the 
 lusty grape vines clamber up the 
 mountain side to mingle with up-lyins 
 fields of young wheat, trembling a 'j11- 
 vor grey in the light stirring of the 
 wind. The beach, crescent shaped. 
 
142 
 
 WENTWORTH LANDMARKS 
 
 lylngr like a huge sickle sliarply divid- 
 ing the lake and the bay, and the bay 
 Itself resting like a pearl in the shadow 
 of the hills, has been compared, in its 
 beauty, with the Bay of Naples. In 
 looking over the country from the 
 brow of the mountain, one would like 
 to be able to call up a Mohawk chief 
 from the shades of the departed and 
 show him the difference a century has 
 made. Perhaps he would view It with 
 tho calm indifference common to the 
 Indian. If so, we would point out to 
 him the electric car gracefully describ- 
 ing the curves of his erstwhile trail. 
 That would move him, and cause him 
 to mutter in the language of the Mo- 
 
 hawk something about "the horrors 
 that we know not of." Still we need 
 not go back that far to make the 
 street car a matter of surprise, and we 
 find it difficult now to believe that 
 only three years ago we "staged It" to 
 Hamilton— said stage, by the way, al- 
 ways "smelled to heaven," and inclin- 
 ed one to think that the last occupant 
 must have been on his way to the 
 mortuary, and the horses gave one the 
 impression of having aged through 
 fast living rather than an accumula- 
 tion of years. But I am forgetting. It 
 is of the past, the long past, that I 
 should be writing. 
 
 TONY REEK. 
 
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 A MILL OP YE OLDEN TIME. 
 
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 I^Z 
 
 THE STAGE COACH DAYS 
 
 Recollections of Life on the Old Post Road Between Ham- 
 ilton and Caledonia. ^ The Wayside Inn Ruins that 
 Mark the Route Through Barton and Glanford. 
 
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 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 THE CALEDONIA STAGE HOAD 
 
 With a pull of the line and a crack of 
 the whip 
 We're off on the Caledonia stage; 
 Give modern-day cares and worries the 
 slixi 
 And live for an hour in another age. 
 
 ( 
 If the road is good we may get there 
 soon; 
 If it isn't we'll possibly have to 
 walk; 
 But, speedy or slow, grant this one 
 boon— 
 Si't down and listen to old men talk. 
 
 UCH as one may 
 rejoice that his life 
 ihas been set in the 
 immediate present 
 In this century of 
 wonderful things 
 there is a mine of 
 Interesting incident to be opened up 
 and delved into when one considers the 
 earlier years of the century around 
 this neighborhood In almost any di- 
 rection. As, for instance, the records 
 of the old stage coach days along the 
 road over the mountain and Into Cale- 
 donia. We people of this day know 
 next to nothing of the real old-fash- 
 ioned stage coach other than what we 
 read about It in the school books, but 
 there are plenty of the old folks left 
 who knew no other mode of travel in 
 their younger days. And an interest- 
 ing method of travel it used to be, too, 
 particularly In the springs and falls 
 of the years. For it must be remem- 
 bered that in stage coach days the 
 science of rdad building In this land 
 v\Tas a thing undreamed of, and the 
 best roads of the country were those 
 known as plank roads. These were 
 good enough in the summer, when 
 everything was dry, and in the winter, 
 when everything was frozen up, b 
 In the spring and fall — well, they were 
 different. That Caledonia road, now 
 BO beautifully kept by a generous toll 
 road company, was one of those plank 
 roads in the early days, and from 
 
 what the old people say it had a rec- 
 ord for wickedness in spring and fall 
 seasons. The stage would leave Ham- 
 ilton in the early morning, four big, 
 heavy horses pulling it, and at Terry- 
 berry's hotel the change of beasts 
 would be made. When the roads were 
 very bad it would be impossible for 
 passengers to travel to Caledonia 
 without saying something to each 
 other, or in some way coming to- 
 gether. If they refused to be sociable 
 in any other way a lurch of the stage 
 would throw them unceremoniousl/y in 
 a heap. The mud of the road was 
 so deep and soft at these times of the 
 year that the coach would sink to the 
 hubs in many places, and it was no 
 uncommon things for passengers to 
 have to get out and walk for miles of 
 the way. And yet there are some of 
 us who fall to appreciate modern 
 methods of travel and make our lives 
 unhappy by grumbling and growling 
 because street cars or trains are too 
 
 slow. 
 
 • * * 
 
 If there are any people around this 
 part of the country who ought to re- 
 joice at the progress their pet reform 
 has made within 50 years they are the 
 temperance people. According to what 
 the old folks tell us there was a time 
 when no less than fifteen hotels lined 
 the road from John Clark's, at the top 
 of the mountain, to Caledonia. Now 
 there are but two. And more than 
 that; in those days there was practi- 
 cally no license law, and the man who 
 wanted to drink could do It at any 
 time of the day or night, and not get 
 the very best sort of liquor for his 
 drinking either. Shortly before 1856, 
 Jacob Terryberry, who died last fall, 
 went out Into Gl^nford township and 
 cast his eyes upon about 400 acres of 
 beautifully timbered land. It pleased 
 him and he bought It. There was a 
 good deal of money In the lumber busi- 
 ness In those days, and In a short 
 time Mr. Terryberry had saw mills 
 
THE CALEDONIA STAGE ROAD 
 
 145 
 
 
 
 
 THE ANCIENT HESS HOSTLEKV. 
 
 going and mill hands at work all over 
 his property. Being a good business 
 man, and not given to wasting where 
 he could by any means save, he con- 
 ceived the idea of building a big hotel, 
 where his mill hands could board and 
 where the traveling public could get 
 all the accommodation they liked, liquid 
 and other sorts. So he sought him out 
 a builder — John Dickenson by name, 
 and father of John, the present M.L.A. 
 for South Wentworth. To him he 
 gave his orders, and in a short time 
 100,000 bricka were put in place, and 
 the big hotel became an accomplished 
 fact, as the picture will show. In its 
 day that hotel did a great business, 
 but with the decline of the lumber 
 trade and the loss of stage traffic, it 
 ceased to pay and was shut up. It Is 
 a curious thing, too, that the man 
 who built the place — Mr. Dickenson — 
 happened to be a license commissioner 
 for the riding when the licen.se was 
 cut off and the place closed up. 
 
 In the earlier days the postofflce of 
 the township was in the Terryberry 
 place, too. It was stationed right In 
 the bar, so 'tis said, and it was this 
 fact that led to Its removal. There 
 came a growth in the religious and 
 temperance sentiment of the commun- 
 ity, and It was thought unwise that 
 the preacher and his flock should have 
 to walk into a bar-room to get letters. 
 
 It may even be surmised that such a 
 condition of affairs might have led to 
 some very wicked deception on the 
 part of some of the good appearing 
 people, who may have been glad 
 enough of the postofflce excuse to get 
 Into the bar-room and leave tlieir 
 thirsts behind them. Whatever was 
 thought an agitation was begun, led 
 by Rev. Canon Bull, who is .so in- 
 timately Identified with the early his- 
 tory of a large part of Wentworth 
 county, for the removal of the post- 
 office to some more congenial, heaven, 
 blessed spot. No one could think of 
 any place better than Mr. Dickenson's 
 and he was finally persuaded to be- 
 come postmaster. He has held this 
 position ever since, all through the 
 long regime of the wicked Tory govern, 
 ment, and will likely continue to hnid 
 it till he dies, unless his own party 
 turns him out of office. The position 
 brings him in .?18 a year, which is 
 quite an Item. 
 
 * • * 
 
 It was over sixty years ago that 
 Jacob Hess, at that time not a very 
 young man, sailed Into Hamilton bay 
 In a boat, bound for the city of Dun- 
 das. Hamilton was a mighty small 
 place at that time, but its prospects 
 looked well, and as Mr. Hess looked 
 from the boat to the shore hla eye 
 was pleased with the scene. He was 
 looking for a place to settle, and he 
 had peculiar ideas of his own about 
 
ppam 
 
 •i' 
 
 146 
 
 WENTWOKTH LANDMAKKS 
 
 the sort of place he wanted. There 
 was one thing he was bound to have 
 on his premises, and that was a living 
 spring. With this idea in his head he 
 carefully examined the shore of the 
 bay till he came to a place where a 
 swift running, business-like little 
 stream of cold spring water made Its 
 way into and was lost in the larger 
 body. That was what he was after, 
 and at the source of that stream he 
 determined to pitch his tent, wherever 
 that source might be. 
 
 • • * 
 Like an African explorer striking 
 Into the jungle, he started along the 
 banks of the stream. It was no easy 
 task he had set himself, for there was 
 an abundance of wild growth and 
 underbrush along «ts edge, and he 
 eventually found himself up against 
 the side of the mountain, looking up 
 many feet at the place where the water 
 came tumbling joyously over the 
 rocks. Up the side he clambered, and 
 once on the table land followed the 
 water course again. Three days 
 through the dense woods he followed 
 the stream. East and west, but ever 
 southerly, it led him, until at last he 
 found what he started out to discover 
 — the place where It bubbled up out 
 of the rocks. There he stopped, built 
 him a log hut and took up land. We 
 know the spring now as the Hess 
 spring. It tumbles its waters over 
 Chedoke falls, and It isn't so very 
 many years ago that some interested 
 persons tried to get the city aldermen 
 to buy the water course as a feeder 
 for a high level reservoir. It atill 
 flows, though the man who discovered 
 its source has long since been gather- 
 ed to his fathers, and a new owner Is 
 master of its destiny. Water flows 
 and time goes on forever. 
 
 Jacob Hess was one of the Interest- 
 ing old men of his time. He was one 
 of the pioneers who found it necessary 
 to use the old Indian trail to Niagara 
 Falls when he wanted to get his grist 
 ground, and before his death he often 
 told how he shouldered his first bag 
 of wheat and tramped along the trail 
 all the way to the Falls, there getting 
 It ground and tramping back again 
 with the bag of flour. When he first 
 built his log house he and his family 
 had to sit up at night fearful lest 
 wolves or other wild animals would In 
 some way get In at them. But the 
 
 scene quickly changed. The timbered 
 land was cleared away and a frame 
 house took the place of the log shanty. 
 Then one of the ! oys built a hotel on 
 the Caledonia road (everyone seemed 
 to have a hotel in those days). The 
 Hess tavern was a curious old place 
 and still stands, an old frame wreck 
 on the main road. It has long since 
 been deserted as a hotel and to-day 
 its only occupant Is Jim Jones, the 
 central market pickle prince. He may 
 be found there on any day but a 
 market day and Sunday, making 
 pickles in what used to be the bar- 
 room. 
 
 * • * 
 
 Just where the town line crosses the 
 stone road, making a four-corners, 
 there Is a section known as Ryck- 
 man's Corners. It received that name 
 many years ago, when Samuel Ryck- 
 man came along and received in pay- 
 ment for his services to the govern- 
 ment large tracts of land. In all he 
 owned about 700 acres of soil, at that 
 time heavily timbered. He was one 
 of the earliest settlers in that local- 
 ity, having come from Pennsylvania, 
 where his parents lived. He was a 
 good Hollander and a land surveyor. 
 There was plenty of land around this 
 part of the country at that time in 
 need of survey, and he was appointed 
 crown land surveyor for a large dis- 
 trict. Thus he acquired his large 
 property. Building a log house and 
 barn on the northeast corner of the 
 cross roads, he lived an honest life, 
 raised a family of worthy children, 
 and ultimately, at the age of 70, and 
 In the year 1846, died. One of his sons 
 was Major Ryckman, another one 
 Ward Ryckman and another Hamil- 
 ton Ryckman. The major received a 
 piece of his father's estate a short 
 distance down the town line, there 
 living out his life, following in his 
 father's footsteps as to raising a fam- 
 ily of worthy sons, among them being 
 S. S. Ryckman, ex-M.P., and W. H. 
 Ryckman. Ward Ryckman became 
 famous in early history as the owner 
 of the noted Victoria mills, which 
 supplied the lumber from which many 
 a Hamilton house still standing has 
 been built. Hamilton, the other son, 
 stuck to the old homestead, and he 
 also aided In perpetuating the family 
 name by his cons George, Edward, 
 John and some more. Hamilton did 
 not make farming his hobby by any 
 means. He branched out as a railway 
 
 =; K 
 
^m 
 
 THE CALEDONIA STAGE ROAD 
 
 '47 
 
 contractor and became responsible 
 for the building of large sections of 
 the Michigan Central railway. He 
 fixed up the old homestead, put a 
 brick front on It, and there his family 
 lived until grown up. Hamilton's 
 wife was a Miss Gage, daughter of 
 William Gage, whose home is on the 
 town line to the west, near the Union 
 schoolhouse. Both he and his good 
 wife are still living, he being 75 years 
 old and she two years younger. 
 
 • • « 
 
 In those days of the past thero were 
 
 hte north is the Fenton homestead, 
 and it isn't at all likely that the gen- 
 eral public knows that there, in a 
 low lying piece of ground, is a gas 
 well that to this day supplies the 
 Fenton house with heat and fuel. In 
 connection with the well a good story 
 is told. Years ago some master mind 
 conceived the idea that if he bored 
 far enough on the Fenton property he 
 would strike oil. A company was 
 formed and boring began. After a 
 time, however, no oil being struck, 
 ond funds running low, the sharehold- 
 ers did not want to produce the neces- 
 
 :5 ?-vv^j<» _ 
 
 
 
 
 TEKKYBEURY'S BIG HOTEL, 
 
 no burying grounds, such as are now 
 known, and it was a coi-nmon custom 
 for every family to have its own 
 burial place somewhere on the farm. 
 Tiie Ryckman Jjurial ground is to be 
 seen yet, a little to the north of the 
 homestead, and the many tombstones 
 there of members and friends of the 
 family and connection are mute evi- 
 dences of a past that in this day oan 
 hardly be understood, much less ap- 
 preciated. At one time the Ryckman 
 burial ground and that other one of 
 the old Barton church were the only 
 two in the country round. 
 
 * * • 
 
 Next to the Ryckman homestead to 
 
 sary cash for further exploration. 
 Then the cunning manipulators of 
 the scheme poured coal oil down the 
 hole, pumped it out again, and shout- 
 ed: "We have struck oil." Of coursa 
 more money was at once forthcoming 
 and boring went on again. Finally, 
 however, when the hole was down 
 many thousands of feet, the job was 
 given up as a bad one and the hole 
 plugged. One day it was opened 
 again, and a flow of gas noticed. 
 From that time till now it has proved 
 a source of profit and pleasure to the 
 Fenton family. There ai'e all sorts of 
 mineral waters on the property, and 
 it may be there will some day be a 
 fortune on the place for its owner. 
 
 J. E. W.