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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est fiimi A partir de I'angle supirieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. lies diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■ j • i:i:>^<54rv/ or me^ Jmuianj. fie4!£^/x,fri^a tjmm^ W] V' .•1, r ) \ f / ' -» r A A" \ ** - -. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, • IN THE YEARS 1785, 1786, 1787, AND 1788. f *\\ TERPORMED IN THE KING GEORGE, - . e r' COMMANDED ^H CAPTAII/ PORTLOCK; AND THE (VTJEEN CHARLOTTE, COMMANDED BY CAPTAIN DIXON; I b _ . Under the Dlre^lion of the Incorporated Society for A THE ADVANCEMENT OF THE FUR TRADE. i, t ',n,^ ^^^i. ' ; I o N n '■ Printed for R. Randai., No. j oi :».-lanc7 and fold by ail Bookr»tlIets in 7 cv n and Countryr M ncc wxAi ■'. C PRICE Tli.lEE SiliLLiNCf/ uoc «.* ^20 c PREFACE, ^H AT great circumnavigator. Captain Cooky ijhofe memory ivill be ever revered y has not only i?2creafed the jlock of Geographical knowledge beyond any man ivho has preceded him ; but, by his difcoveries, has opened a ivide field for Commerce, ejlablijhed an inter courfe between the unlettered Indian and the polijfxd European, a7id pointed out a fource of wealth to the adventurous merchant. From his indefatigable labours, and fuperior nautical abilities, civilization will probably be introduced among the mojl barbarbous favages, fcience rear her head in the uncultivated defert, and pojlerity in general derive advantages, which would have been unt bought of and un- knowny had not Heaven Jovoured the admiring world with fo great a navigator, withfuch a friend tofociety, ' ' */" Induced by the difcoveries made in his lafl voyage to the Pacific Ocean, and particularly by ths lucrative profpedi which he had pointed <*jt ' ..j^SNn'-'^' out f^ PREFACE. out for t be advancement of the fur trade; many have f nee vifted thofe regions y iDhich ivere be^ fore unexplored by the European, "Einterprifing merchants^ from different na- tionsy have availed themfelves of his labours and ingenuity ; and a fociety of Gentlemen in Kngland, incorporated by charter^ purchafed two Jljips for the fole purpofe of extending that invaluable branch of commerce, MeJJieurs Portlock and Dixon "wre appointed commanders of thofe JhipSy and "md the honour to attend them in their expciuion ; the particulars of which are faithfully related in the following pages^ C. L. of nng C O N T E NTS. CHAP I. ]\EJS0NS for undertaking the vsya^e — Accouvt rjfiht Onps^ nnd tht'ir eUJitnutLn — Suiljiornthe river — arrive at Gravi'lend — caji anchor near Margate — arrive cff Deal — anchor at Stithead — froceed to Guernpy—J/t Porto SdntOy and Madeira. Arrive at Saint Jago — Dtlcription of it. I C H A P. II. Leave St. 'Jago-' Account of cr offing the Linc—Continua^ tion of the voyage from St. ya^o to Falkland's Iflandi—^ Our arrival there — Amujements and tmployments — Sojns ae*:9unt of their productions —birds^ fijh^ i^c. — Proceed toiuaids Cape Horn — Anchor in Karakkakooa Bay, lO C H A P III. Difappointed in procuring water at Owhyhce — proceed to li' hahoo — purchtijc water there — Proceed to 'Jneehow — ohttiin a plentiful fupply of yarns — Pa^jltgc to Cook* 5 River — meet with fame Rujfian adventurers -^anchor in Coal' Harbour, 20 C H A P. IV. Leave Caal-H(<''hour — Proceed up Cook's Rivera— Fur - chufe variety of ficins from the natives of the coajls. 28 CHAP V. Account of the furs coUefled in Cook's River — Proceed for the Senuhvich Iflands — A fiery meteor chfcrved — Defcnp- tion of part of the coaji cfOwhyhee. 37 CHAP. vr. Vifited by Tcereteera^ king of Whahoo — Tfl^e natives at^ tempi tofieal the whale-boat. — Apriejl comes on hoard— ^ his method of taking the avp. — Account of on human fa- crifice. — The injujlice oflecretcera. — Piapia re/olv.s to come to England. — Depart Jrofn At out. 46 CHAP. vir. Proceed to Wymoa-Bas^ Atoui — Are vifitcd b\ Ahhenous and his Jon — The king comes on hoard — Several officers of the Jhip take a little tour up the country — Several cf the officers entertained b'' Abbemue. en CHAP. VIII. Arrive at IFymoa Boy, Atoui—find the inhabitants tobfo- . CONTENTS. id. — yittt'mpt to make Ozvhyhee — Steer for the American cocji. — Arrive at Prince JVilliam's Sound. — Captain Dixon t ikes ^"i excurfion in a wha/e-luJ. — Find the Noctku^ Lapt. Mearesy in a creek. 64. C li A P IX. Plan ofppnrntion nc^reed on — A chief and his people bring a letter — they commit fevcral thefts on hoard — Narrow efcape of a f.jhing party — Dijcover an excelljni harbour j luhich zee named Port Mulgravc — Manners and cuf- toms of the inhabitants — Method of dijpofwg of their dead* 80 CHAP. X. ^lit Port Midgrave — Anchor in Norfolk Sound — Various proceedings there — Perfons, manners ^ and cujloms of the inhabitants of Norfolk Sound, (\\ CHAP. XI. jLeove Norfolk Sound — Anchor in Pott Banks— ^Reafons for quitting it — Find a great number of Indians, who traffic largely with us — Stifcral other parties of Indians trade with us. — Arrive; off .'i^een Charlotte's Iflands. 97 C H A P. XII. Obervations on ^ucen Charlotte^ s IjJands — Meet tzvo vef^ jcls, called the Prince of Wales, and the Princcfs Koyalj from London — Pcrfons, jnanneis, and cujhms of the in^ habitants — Drcfs — MamfaSlures. 1 lo C H A P. XIII. Terrrfeere comes en board to take leave — Proceed to Atgui;, — Liberal behaviour of the king and chiefs. — Alatmers &nd cjlo.ns of t])e Sandwich IJ'anders. 120 C PI A P XIV. Leave Atoui Proceed for China — Pafs the Iflands of 'Jiyi'um, /iguigan, and Soypan — Anchor in Macao Roads— • Leave AIucjo — Arrive at JVa?npo — Dijiculties occa^ fijuidby thefipercargoes there. 12gi ' C H A P XV. Lfave If'amPo. — Anchor in the Roads of North IJland.—- dangerousjiorm. — proceed to St. Helena — procure water xh.re, cindfjme frejh beef — Arrive off Dover. lyj , .4-^ VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. C H A P I. Reafons for uvdertaktng the voyage — Account of thefolpSy mid their de/iination — Sail from the river — arrive at Gravefend — caji anchor near Margate — arrive off Deal — anchor eft Spithead — proceed to Guerrfey—Jee Porto Santo, and Aladeira, Arrive at Saint J^'go — > Defcription of it. OUR vcflels being perfedly equipped for a voyage round the world, with a view to eftablidi a valuable fur trade ori the American coaft, and to difpofe of our commodity to advantage at China ; we weighed anchor on the 29tLof Auguft 1785 at nine o'clock in the morning, and flood for Gravefend. Of our two fhips, the larger was called the King George, and com- manded by Captain Portlock, who was alfo commander in chief for the voyage; the fmaller, named the Queen Charlotte, B was .1 •- i V i«ii i*ir . rr . Aw«^f— .. [ ^ ] [1785. was commanded by Captain Dixon. The lorincr vcllcl had about fixty on board, and tlie latter little more than half that number. The wind and tide proving favourable, we came to anchor at Gravefend about two o'clock in the afternoon. Here a difficulty arofe, which 1 was apprehenfive would have retarded our voyage. The articles of agreement being read to the fhips* crews, they refufed to iign them without an ad- vance upon the ufual wages. But Captain Portlock expoflulated with them on the impropriety of their demand, and they chearfuUy complied with the terms which were propofed. On the 30th the men were paid their wages, and a month's ialary in advance, which they expended in purchaling necef- faries of the flop boats, which always at- tend upon thele occafions. At eleven o'clock we weighed anchor and flood for the Downs, and caft anchor near Margate about eight the fame evening. We again weighed the next morning, and brought to abreaft of Deal in the afternoon ; where, on account of contrary winds, we continued till the morning of the fecond of Septem- ber. ^ .785] r 3 1 «? bcr, when a favourable breeze fprung up, and we made Tail. We proceeded, without much variety, till the fifth, when a heavy gale fprung up, and our vcfl'cl became the fport of the winds and waves : diforder and confulion b'jcamc general by the creaking of the fliip's tim- bers, the noife atid bultle of the Teamen, and the outrageous bowlings of the wind. But, when the evening advanced, the jftorm abated, though the billows rolled mountains high. In the morning the angry waves recovered their ferenity, and we came to anchor at Spithead on the evening of the 8th of September. Here we beheld the mafls of the Royal George, in which Admiral Kempenfeldt among I15 perfons of various dcfcripti- ons, found a watery grave. At this place we took in live flock and other neccflaries. In the rrvorning of the i6th of Septem- ber we left Spithead, and palled by St. Helen's about eleven ; but were induced, by the wind and weather, to return and anchor in St. Helen's road in the evening. Gn the 17th, at feven in the evening, wc made fail, the weather being moderate and |he winds variable till the 19th; on the B 2 evening ...L.<~ [ 4 ] in^s evening of which we were at anchor with a kedge ; and a cutter, which was to convey fome ladies we had on board to Guernfey on a party of pleafure, was moored to our (lern with a ftrong rope. With the rapi- dity of the tide, for we had not then much wind, the rope broke, and the cutter run adrift ; and we alfo loft the flake of cur anchor. P»- In the forenoon of the 20th, we faw what are called the Cafkets ; a clufter of rocks often fatal to mariners. Being quite becalmed, our veflbl became unmanageable, and, in the evening, we were not above 3, mile from them. Though we had found- ings in twenty fathom water, the bottorr^ confifted only of fharp rocks, fo that there was no probability of an anchor being of any fervice to us. Happily, however, the tide turned about nine o'clock, and, for that time^, removed our appreheniions of danger. About noon on the 2 1 ft, being near the harbour of Guernfey, our owners brought a pilot on board to take us in, and wc an- chored in Guernfey road about fcven o'clock in the evening. The trade of this place is chiefly of the contraband kind, which is carried on extenfiv("ly with France, Spain^, and Portugal. Brandy, wines, &c. they hi 1785] [ 5 ] deal in to a confiderable amount, but tea is no longer a lucrative article in clandcf- tine dealings , The women here are natu- rally far from handfome, but, by a judicious ufe of paint, fome of them appear to have pretty good complexions. Here vvc took feveral articles from the Royal George on board the Queen Char- lotte, and procured a (lock of liquor. On the 26th we weighed, and made fail ; and, on the 27th, faw feveral illaiids at the dif- tance of about fcven leagues. About eleven in the morning on the 2d of Odlober, fomething appeared at a dis- tance floating on the water : the curiofity of every one was excitc-d. Fearlefs of the attacks of fharks, two of the men prevail- ed upon Captain Dixon to fuffer them to pkinge into the fea. The expedled prize was found to be a large cafk, covered with barnacles, a well-known ihell-fini. It was hoirted on board, after having proba- bly remained a long time in the water, the filh having almofl eaten holes through the cafk, and could with difficulty be removed. On examination we found ourfelves re- warded with a hoediead of claret ; but, though the acquifition might be agretable to us, we could not avoid heaving a ligh for [ 6 1 [i78^. the fituation of thofe, who found it expedi- ent to part with any thing fo valuable. Nothing remarkable occurred till the 13th, when early in the morning Porto Santo appeared, at tlie diftance of about feven leagues, and Madeira lomewhat near^ cr. On the i6th we faw Palma and Fer- ro, two of the Canary Illands, and Bona- vifta on the 24th. At noon on the fame day, we anchored in Port Praya Bay, St, The Ifland of St. Jago is about one hun^ dred miles in circuit, and the climate very hot; the eafterly winds blowing from the fandy deferts of Africa, contributing to augment the heat. liere we intended to procure water, frefh provifions, and other neceflaries. The reception we met with from the commander of the fort, was far from being flattering to us; but a trifling prefent purchafed his civility, and v/e were permitted to water our fliips : more was not in his power to grant, other necefTaries being only to be procured of a Portuguefe merchant, who relided at fome diftance. The two captains, accompanied by fome of» the oflicers, waited on this merchant, who received them with much civility and poiitenefsjj 1785.3 [ 7 ] to ; I to ther • * vith far '-"1' 1 ling /ere ■1 was . 1 ries lefe • ■ H' ..V- ime ■'•^t ^ mt, and 1^ efSjj politenef?, and entertained them with ex- cellent Madeira and fruits. A guinea was paid for each velTel, as a kind of port charge ; and the captains were required to enter their names in a book provided for that purpofe, as well as mention from whence they came, and the particulars of their defUnation. Captain Portlock agreed to purchafe fome beef and other ai tides from this gen- tleman ; but was informed by an old negro, who fpoke a little broken Englidi^ that they might be furnifhed with what- ever they wanted, on cheaper terms, by the country people. At Praya we found a kind of market, attended by perfons from various parts of the illand, with fheep, hogs, goats, fowls, pine-apples, oranges^ and other excellent fruits, cocoa-nuts, ba- nanas, &;c. The merchant indeed was the only perfon who could furnifh lis with beef, the poverty of the common inhabi- tants not permitting them to deal in arti- cles of that magnitude and price, though the bullocks are much fmaller than thofe which are produced in Wales or Scot- land. Toys and old cloaths were more covet- ed by thefe people than calh, which was a fortu- Mil m f i [ s ] 785-1 fortunate clrcumflance, Englifh coin not being current in this place. But we were obliged to advance fome money, which wc procured by exchanging guineas for dollars with the merchant, on very difadvantageous terms. During our continuance in this ifland, three {hips arrived from London, and a brig from America. The American came to purchafe horfes or cattle ; but not be- ing ab!e to procure any, he departed in ^ few hours. The London vefTcls are em- ployed in the fouthern whale fiihery. The fort and caftle here make a very in-« lignificant appearance, though commanded by a captain, and having a fmall garrifon of foldiers. On a plain behind the fortrefs, Hands the rown of Praya, confifling of about fixty huts at a confiderable diftance from each other, and forming a kind of fquare, in which the market is held. Thef<5 habitations arc compofed of ftone, without any cement, and are the moil miferable re- iidences that can be conceived. Beds arc but little known in this ifland, mats are in general ufed to repofe on. The natives, who are black, adl principally as fervants to the Portuguefe, many of whom are inha- bitants of this place. The Roman Catho^ lie i^ I 1 M ^ y I ii^i-] [ 9 ] lie religion, with all the bigotry of Portu- gal, is exerciicd here. From the warmth of the climate, the females here might have been fuppofed to have been amorous; yet neither prefents nor folicitations from our gentlemen, could prevail upon cither the natives or the Por- tuguefe, to gratify their wiflies, ^ Goats are very plentiful in this ifland, and their milk fupplits the inhabitants with a principal part of their fubfiftence. Befides other methods of ufing it for food, great quantities of it are uied in making cheefe. Little cloathing is required in fuch a climate, and very little is ufed : the women indeed wear a lucfe covering, com- poled of cotton, a thin petticoat, and a cap. Their ears and necks are alfo embellifhed with beads, and a crofs is ulaally fufpended from the neck. The countenances of the Portuguefe are fallow, wan, and meagre ; thofc of the natives have the appearance of health and vigour. r ' ' 1 ' t. f i . I ( . ' i •»'i. r /];.■ ^ ' • • c r:./^ : ij' t .. 7 CHAP. ') »-v I I (! [ 10 ] [1785. • CHAP. II. heove St. y^go—' Account of crofjing the Line — Continua- tion of the voyage from St. fago to Falkland'' s Iflamh-^ Our arrival there — Jmujementi and empUynienti — So?ne account of their prcduStioas - thirds ^ fjhy is'c. — Proceed towards Cape Horn — Anchor inJCarakkakooa Bay. OUR necefTities being in a great mea- fure fupplied, a favourable breeze fpruhg up, and we weighed anchor on the morning of the 29th of Odlober. As we approached the equinodii^l line, it became gradually hotter, and, on the 3d of No- vember, the heat was fo intenfc, that it was thought expedient to wa(h our deck? and veffels wfth vinegar. That, tafk was care-* fully performed. From the 4th to the 12th of November, there was a fucceflion of fqualls, calms, clear and hazy weather, and thunder and lightning. On the j6th wc croiTed the line, and the ufual ceremony of plunging thofc under water, who had never been to the fouth of it, was begun 5 but fome of the men appearing to be much enraged at fuch treatment, the captain gave a double allowance of grog to all hands, which terminated the difpute. The liquor, however, had a pernicious operation upon fome of them, who grew fo turbulent ^nd unmanageable, that it was found neceflary to confine them in irons, O4 "ir 1785-1 f II ] i I a- o« On the 24tb, vinegar was fcrved out to. every man, which was found very falutary with their fait provifions, fifli, &c. On the 25th they had unexped:edly a fupply of flops, which afforded them much iatisfac- tion, as they apprehended they fhould not be able to procure a fupply of cloaths. Tea and fugar were delivered to them on the 26th, fufficient to furni ih them with a breakfaft every morning. Thele were doubly agreeable, as a comfortable addition to our food, anj as anti-fcor butics. Being at length out of the Tropics, on the 6th of December the weather began to be agreeable, accompanied with fteady eaft- erly breezes. W'* had a heavy gale on the nth, but the weather foon became mode-- rate. The i6ih, it being moderate and fine, many fpermaceti whales appeared about the (hip^ We had {6 heavy a gale of wind on the 21ft, that we were obliged to hand our top-fails, and reef our courfes, and take every method to keep the vcffel dry and in order. Southward of the line, this is the longeft day, th'e fun rifing before four o'clock here in December. On the 23d, wefaw a feal, and a multitude of fifh play- ing about the (hip. The next morning we had a heavy florrn of fnow and fleet, and we had had heavy gales of wind and fqually C 2 weather 4^1 I n I t 12 :i [1786. Weather for the three preceding days. About this time we had a goat ftarved to death with cold, though the utmoft care had been taken of it. We regretted its lofs, as it had furnifhed us with milk twice a day. Early on the :55th we had fre(h breezes, and tolerably clear weather, but at four o'clock we had a heavy gale of wind. This being Chriftmas day, it was celebrated as a feftival, by tumultuous joy and mirth, ac- companied with inebriation, occadoned by drinking grog to the health of abfent friends, For feveral fucceflive days, we had variety of weather ; for, though this is the fumnier in this part of the worid (being in latitude 50 deg. 32 min, fouth) yet the weather, at this time, refemblcd that of March in En- gland, fV On the I ft of January 1786, it was apparent that we were not far from land^ from the number of birds that came about us. About four o'clock in the morning we difcovered land, at the diAance of nine or ten leagues, At nine we founded in eighty fathom water. In the afternoon we founded again in nearly the fame depths" In the mornmg of the 3d, at nme o'clock, we law a ruck at about iix leagues diltance, >yhich we at firil fuppofed to be a vefit\ Undcir ij * -.i 1786] [ '3 ] under fall. We were afterwards informed that this rock is known by the name of the Eddydone. Unwilling to lofe fight of the land, we flood in fliure, and tacked occafionally. On the 4th, in the morning, we law two fmall iflands, and continued to ftand along fhore, luppofing we were at no great dir.ance from Port tgmont. At one the next morning, being within a league of the wefternmoft: land, the commodore made a fignal to ftand off fhore. At three we were under fail, and Captain Portlock dilpatched his firil mate to look out for a harbour^ About eight the mate fired a mufket as a fignal for danger, and at ten hoifted a ^Ag on an eminence, which was a fignal for a harbour : both fhips therefore Hood in for the found, and the commodore made a fignal for the mate to return, by firing a gun. PJe foon made bis appearance, and acquainted u? that he had (etn a reef of rocks, which induced him to fire ; and far-» ther informed us, that the harbour afford- ed an excellent place for watering. Abou^ twelve both (hips anchored in Fort Egr piont* Our principal objcdt was to water th« fhips, and to lav in fonic additional ballaft in [ «4 ] [1786. I > in the Queen Charlotte, having ohfcrved that fhc did not draw a fufficient dtpth of water. No time i& loft in accomplifh- ing thefc two obj ^ls, and on the I4tli we had completed ourbufinefs entirely. During this fhort fpace, all the people had been on /iiore to breathe a little land air; a com- mon pradlice upon thefe occafions, and thought to be of cffcntial fcrvice to tkc health of fcamcn. On the 14th an Englifli floop arrived in the harbour, which we w^re afterwards informed was called the United States, and commanded by a Captain Hi Tey. She was the property of Mrs. Hayley, widow of alderman Hayley, and fifter to the prcfent chamberlain of London. Our captains, after taking a regular fur-» vey of the port, and making other necef- fary refearches, difcovered a birth for the fhips, fuperior to that in which we lay, on the weft fide of the bay : accordingly we anchored there on the morning of the •i6th, and prefently congratulated ourfelves on the change we had made, being well iheltered, and not incommoded with any fwell. Port Egmont is fo capacious a har- bour, t! at the whole navy of Great Britain might ride in it, : . ! I hi; if 1786.] [ >5 ] Tved h of h we Liring sn oil com- and ) tbe rrived ivartis 5, and le was )W of re fen t fur-r ecef- the lay, ingly f the felves well )r any har- Iritain U 'iS In the morning of the 19th, we weigh- ed anchor and made fail ; and at nine in the evenin<^ anchored off Carcafe llland. On the 20th we made fail, and anchored in Weft-point harbour about two in the afternoon. We again made fail on the morning of the 21 ft, and in rounding Weft: Point, the wind poured upon us like a hur- ricane, and blew for the f^ace of an hour with luch aftoniftiing impetuofity, that wc could not difplay a fingle yard of canvafs ; but as we gradually got clear of the high land, the wind grew more moderate. At four in the afternoon we anchored in States Bay, Swan Ifland. / > • , ,■• .- , * Tho' thefe iflands are generally known by the name of Falkiand's, they have alfp their individual names, as Swan Iftand, Keppel's Ifland, 6cc. The weather, though it was the height of fummer here, was cold and winterly, with frequent heavy rain ; the winds too were generally wcfterly. It is worthy of remark, that a tree, or any thing refembling a tree, is not to be found on thefe iflands. Not an infeft of any kind was to be feen, though one of our officers was indefatigable in his endea- vours to find objeds of that kind. Gpcfe I ]• ' but we were foon convinced that our endeavours would be ineffedluai, without the afliftance of frcfh provifions, vegetables, frefti water, and frefh air : we therefore refolved to make Sandwich i 17^6 Liable [1 fait ngu* 1 the ^as to jd of hence e not much 3t our boat^ day. [786,5 I 19 3 Sandwich lilands with all poflible difpatch, and at eight o'clock in the mprning of the J 4th, we faw Owhyhee, the principle of thofe iflands, bearing weft diftance about twelve leagues ; and at two o'clock on the ^6th, was anchored in Karakkakooa Bay, at a diflance of about a rpile from ihore» ■' ■. - -* 'X -. L good id the n at-* avitig oured ut the dable being an in- s were mt we avour& ftance water, make dwi<5-l> • • f* » < . C^ OJ : P2 CHAP. 8). t^p I'll f I ill' iil;:! ' iiiii': \m ] io ] [1786. ij C H A p iir. Difappotnted in procuring water at Owhyhee^^proeeed tn fPhahoo — purchafe water there — Proceed to Oneehoiv-^ obtain a plentiful fupply of yams — Pajfage to Cook^i River — meet with fome Rujjian adventurers— ^anchor in Coal' Harbour, SOON after we came to anchor in Ka- rakkakooa Bay, we were furrounded with canoes 5 and vaft numbers of the in- habitants of Owhyhee, of both fexes, fwam about us in the water. Curiofity only in- duced many of them to vifit us ; but others brought hogS) plaintains, fweet potatoes, bread-fruit, and various other commodi- ties to fell or barter. For thefe articles wc exchanged nails, toes, fifh-hooks, toys, and other trifling articles. Intending to perform our neceflary bu- fmefs with all imaginable difpatch, we be- gan to prepare for watering -, but Captain Dixon firft vifited the King George, where he received information that the inhabitants meant to become troublefome, and had ab- folutely tabooed the watering place. Thqfe who have read the voyages of Captain Cobk, need not be informed that the ceremony of tabooing is performed by the priefts, by flicking fmall wands, tipped with a tuft of white hair, round any fpot from which they mean n •^''^ M i;36.] [ 21 3 ed h oiu — hor in Ka- nded I in- wara y in- thers toes, nodi- ps we , and -m mean to exclude the people. Some of tour officers were apprehenfive that this mode of proceeding was adopted, from their rcfentment of the treatment they had received after the death of Captain Cook, who loft his life in this harbour. That, however, was not the cafe : the reafon they afligned for their conduct was, that as all their chiefs were abfent, profecuting a war againfl the inhabitants of a neighbouring ifland, they durfl not prefume to fuffer ftrangers to come on fhore. It may be neceiTary to remark that the Sandwich Jflands were difcovered by Cap- tain Cook, in his laft voyage to the Pacific Ocean -, the principal of which, called Owhyhee, being to the fouthward and eaft, the reft being -in a north-weft direction. Thcfe obtained the name of Sandwich Illands, from the Earl of Sandv^^ich being firft Lord of the Admiralty when that voyage was undertaken, and indeed at the time of the dilcovcry of thoft illands. On the 27th of Jane we made fail, the lliip*s company being bufily employed in killing and faking hogs. Canoes followed us with thofc animals, plantains, bread- fruit, &;c. At L 22 ] [1786, At noon on the 51ft, wp faw Whahoo, another of the Sandwich iflands j and on the I ft of June, at two in the afternoon, we anchored in a bay at the fouth fide of it, at the diftancc of half a league frooj ihore. A great nuniber of canoes approach- ed us ; but hogs and vegetables were not fo plentiful as wc had found them at Owhyhee, On the 2d both our captains went iti fcarch of a watering place, and accommo* dations for thofe who were ill. Good wa^ ter was foon found, but the accefs to it was difficult, and even dangerous, occafioned by a reef of rocks extending along the bay. We therefore began to defpair of procuring water at this ifiand j but fome of our offit- cers having obferved that moft of the peor pie in the canoco h^d calabafhes full of V^ater ; Captain Dixon direded us to pur'- frhafe them, which we did on very mode- rate terms, principally with nails ^nd hut* tons. - . - • • * Thus encouraged, the natives eagerly employed themfelves in fetching wrter for us, and thought themfelves wpll paid for their labour with a fmall r^all, for bringing about three gallons in a calabaih. In thisi fingulai^ ^s 1 i ill i 'ti [1786. uhoo» nd oa moon, fide of : from roach- re not em a( rent m )mmQ* Dd war* ) it was aiioned he bay. )curing ur ofRf- 1786.] [ 23 3 eagerly ter for aid for inging In thi^ ingulai^ lingukr manner, the vefllls were foon fur-^ niihed with an ample fupply of water. While this bafinefs was tranfafling, the furgeon took his patients on (hore, imagin- ing the land air might be ferviceable to them i but the heat of the weather was fo immo- derate, and the inhabitants crowded about them in fuch numbers, that they came on board without having received the leaft be-« nefit. Finding We could not procure a fuf- ficient fupply of hogs and vegetables at Whahoo, it was refolved to proceed to At- toui, another of the Sandwich Iflands j and at four in the afternoon of the 7th, we were near Wymoa-Bay, Attoui, where we pro- pofed to come to anchor ; but the wind blowing ftrong in a wrong djredtion, the commodore propofed flandingfor Oneehow* and anchored in Yam-Bay, Oneehow, in the morning of the 8ch* Here we were plentifully fumlfhed with excellent yams, in exchange for our nails and trifles. This place produces but little" of any thing elfc, and is very thinly inhab- ited, compared with fome of the other Sandwich lilands. Here our fick received confiderable benefit from being taken on (hore, as they could walk about without being incommoded by the inhabitants. Ab- benooe^^ r 24 I [l^%6. h benooe, the principal chief here, received fome trifling prefents from Captain Portlock, and fcemed much inclined to render us any fervice. The few hogs that we procured here, were chiefly brought from Attoui, With an excellent ftock of yams, and as many hogs as we could get, we made fail oa the 13th of June, about eleven in the morn- ing. On the 3d of July we perceived a piece cf wood floating on the water, with feveral birds on it. We frequently obferved large quantities of fea-weed, and a fpecies of birds not unlike Cape- pigeons. On thd 16th we faw feveral fea-parrots and other birds, and feveral pieces of wood pafling by us. At y o'clock in the evening we beheld land^ at the diftance of about fevcn leagues, which we fuppofed to be bordering on Cook's River. We were amufed, during the evening, with feeing a number of whales placing about the vefl^eK We were convinced, on the 18th, that the land we had feeri on the 26th, was the barren iflinds at the entrance of Cook's River. In the afternoon of the i8th, we faw the ifland St, Hermogencs, and whales in great abundance near the land. ■4 We entered Cook's River in the fore-» noon eceived )rtlock, us any rocured oui, ^ and as e fail on 2 morn- ceived a sr> with )bferved I fpecies On thd id other ifling by : beheld leagues, ing on during whales ih, that Iwas the Cook's 1th, we whales le fore- noon 1786] [ 'S ] noon of the X9tb, and having wind and tido in our favour, kept ftand'ng along the eallcrn (bore. About fix in the evening we beard the report of a gun, which furprized us not a little. Our commodore alio fited a gun, by way of anfwering this fignal* The report of the gun we firft heard pro- ceeded from a bay not far from us, which had the appearance of a good harbour. A boat, however, came from the Ihore to the King George, and intelligence was received that they were Ruffians who had firft fired. ... . • Tn the evening, about eight o'clock, we came to anchor, and were foon after at- tended by four or five canoes, with one man in each. Pleafed with this promifing appearance!;, we made afibrtments of our different articles of trade, expeding great quantities of furs to have been offered us in traffic; but, to our infinite concern, we prefently diibovered that thefe people be- longed to the Ruffims, . . Parties were, however, fent the next morning to procure wood and water, and our captains went in the whale-boat to the Ruffian fadory, in exped:ation of obtaining fome intelligence refpcdting their enter- prize on this co.iff. We could only learn E from [ 26 ] [i7^6. from them, tHat they came in a floop from Oonalafka, ar.d that thofe whom we had feen in the canoes were Cjdiac Indians, which they had brought with them to af- fift them in trafficking with the natives about Cook's River. Having but a very impcrfedt knowledge of the Ruffian lan- guage, the captains could only comprehend part of what they faid : but they under- jftood that they were upon hoftile terms with the natives, and never flept without their arms ready loaded by their fide. The Ruffians had only a temporary re- fidence here, which they had formed by hauling their boats on fhore, placing them in the beft order they could, and covering them with fkins, to fhelter them from the inclemency of the weather : but the prin- cipal information we acquired was, that they had not been able to procure many fkins, though they had nankeens and Per- lian lilks to barter for them. We laid in a fufficient ftock of wood and water by the 26th, and, during that time, our captains, who were out upon the furvey, found a vein of coals; a quan- tity of which were taken on board. Hence the Bay acquired the name of Coal Har- bour. Capt am: I [1786. )p from Nc had Indians, 1 to af- natives a very an lan- 3rehend under- I terms without e. , rary re- Tied by ig them overing om the le prin- IS, that i many ad Per- f wood ng that It upon a quan- Hence il Har- Captain 1786.] f 27 1 Captain Portlock having a fcine, it was frequently hauled, and generally with fuccefs ; large quantities of excellent fal- mon were often procured by thcfc means, and fharcd among our people. i^i E2 CHAP: [ 28 ] [•73$ i BlHj- I H I plili I ll(N , • CHAP. IV. heave Coal- Harbour — Proceed up Cook^s River-^^Pur'- chafe variety offrcinsfrom the natives of the coajh. AMPLY furnifhed with wood and water, we weighed anchor on the morning of the 26th, and diredted our courfe to the main river, in fearch of in- hahitants, who might probably be pciref- fed of furs. The tide of the river was fo extremely rapid, that there was a necefTity of coming to anchor every tide, without the aid of a frefh favourable breeze. But this circumftance we did not conlider as a matter to be lamented ; for, as we had much traffic, our frequent anchoring would be indifpenfably neceflary even on that ac- count, . We pj:oceeded up the river on the 26th and 27th, with variable winds, and mode-* rate weather, hourly in expeftation of vi- lits from the different inhabitants on the coafts of the rivdr. None, however, came near us. At noonf we beheld the Burning Mountain, from whofe fummit plenty of fmoke ifl'ued, but we perceived no fire. About four in the afternoon, we anchored at about the diftance of three miles from .. ; , ^- ^■■~ alercl ..7i$ 1786.] [ *9 "J •—Pur" u 7jh. i and gj m the fl d our a of in- 1 poiref- ^J| Lvas fo S icefiity 13 dthout .5 •• But v| er is a :| re had f would i lat ac- i e 26th .j nnode- | of vi- Dn the , came urning Inty of Ip fire. Ihored 1 from la level a level coad:, expedling the arrival ot plenty of canoes, laden with furs. Towards the evening a finglc canoe approached us, in which was only one perlbn. He produced nothing but a little dried falmon, for which we gave him a few beads, and he appeared perfcdtly fatisfied. This man was probably difpatched to learn our intentions ; for, when he perceiv- ed that we meant amicably to barter with him, and faw the variety of articles we dealt in, he feemcd extremely well fatisfier^ and, principally by his geftures, which we pertedly underftood, informed us that the natives on fliore would bring us a large quantity of fkins by the next day's fun. In the morning of the 29th, we were approached by canoes of various fizes ; fome containing fourteen men, fome only one, and others rcfpedively laden with all the intervening numbers. Skins of various forts were offered us, fuch as thofe of bears, fea-otters, marmots, racoons, and many others, for which they made choice of toes and blue beads. Toes were an article they much delighted in, one of a middling fize being thought a valuable coniideration for a large otter's fkin, .' ^ We I.' [ 30 ] [1736. We traded rucccfsfully during the greater part of the day ; the natives behaved with becoming civility and decorum, and wetreat- cd them with rcfpcdl and good-rature. A ircfli gale ftarting in the evening, we had no vifitors J but as the weather was moderate the next morning, many more canoes cume along fide, from whom we purchafed a va- riety of articles. The weather continued moderate till the 3d of Avguft, and our friends continued to vilit us with /kins of various dcfcriptions j but they fignified to us that they theji adted as agents for dillant tribes in the interior parts of the country. Excellent freQi fal- mon were fo plenty, that we bought a large one for a fingle bead. The natives catch them in wears, and feed principally on them during the winter, after having fmoaked and dried ther** in their huts. No one came near us on the 4th of Au- guft, on account of a ftrong breeze ; on the 5th the weather again became moderate, and more dealers came with fkins, but they informed us, that we had pretty well drain* cd the country of thofe articles. In the afternoon of the 6th, Captain Portlock c^me aboard us, and propofed weighing % I I ,-f [786. 17S6] [ 3' ] eater 1 with 1 reat- | . A « id no crate :| Cdine ^ a va- fl 11 the W led to 1 ions ; J aaed fl terior ^ ti (kl- ;^ large -M catch 5 them .1 caked M f Au- I on the 1 lerate, j tthey J drains M aptain 9 )pofed J ighing .1 weighing the next morning. In confe- quence of v/hich we did weigh, but the weather proving unfavourable. Captain Dixon received a mellage from the com- modore, acquainting him that we (hould continue wlicre we lay. This was a fortu- nate circumftance, for a very heavy gale of wind came on in the evening, and conti- nued almoll the whole night. In the morning of the 9th of Augufl:, the weather became moderate. The na- tives had ceafed to bring us any valua- ble furs ; nothing was now produced but remnants of dirty Ikins, which had Icrvcd as garments to the inhabitants. Early in the morning of the loth we made fail, having a moderate breeze. At nine we found it neceffary to anchor, the tide fetting in fkrongly for land. At fix in the afternoon we weighed and made fail, but, unable to ftem the tide, we anchored again about five miles dillant from the fhore. We weighed at five on the nth ; foon after we faw two Kuflian boacs, with about twenty men in each,, (leering for tlie iiland to the fouthward. We had no doubt but they were the flime people we had [cea foon after w^e had entered Cook's River, We kept (landing down the river, and at neon ^1 itfl 1 silt' Ill,' f 1 iiill;, J ■1 ■-■ -I .(fi,. [ 3^ 1 [1786. noon on the 12th, Cape Becie bore eaftfouth- eaft ; at two the Barren Iflands bore louth fouth-eaO-. The weather was mo- derate and pretty fine, and we fuppofed the next tide, with a tolerable breeze, would take us clear of the river. i. We could not prefume to afccrtain the length of the river, as we went no higher than where we lay at anchor ; but its breadth appeared in many places to be about twenty miles. The natives appear harmlefs and inoffen- five in their manners. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and fpcars, which were ufeful both in hunting and fifhing ; they feed on the flefli of the various beafts which are inhabitants of that country, and their flcins conftitute their cloathing. The aniiiials here are bears, foxes, wolves, ra- ccons, marmots, ermine, muf^uafh, and others of inferior note. ■ >ji . The natives are well proportioned,' and of a middle fize. They feem to have re- gular features, but their faces are fo cover- cd with filth, that their genuine complexi- on cannot poflibly be difcerned. Only one woman came to vifit us, and (he was treat- ed by thofe who accompanied her with the greateft ■i^ 1 -Hi I «>■ iH. iwiiunniN [1786. *786.] [ 33 ] fouth- bore s mo- ed the would in the bicjher readth wenty ofFen- capons which hing ; hearts 'f and The &s, ra- and and ve re- :over- plexi- Iv one treat- th the reateil greatcft civility and refpedl : She might probably be a perfon of fome dignity among them. Her face was clean, hercomplcxioa tolerable, and her features rather agreeable than otherwife. Early in the morning of the 13th of Au- guft, we weighed anchor and flood down the river ; and before noon we were clear of Cook's River. Our deftination being for Prince William's Sound, we kept (land- ing along the fhore ; and in the afternoon of the 14th, the weather grew cloudy and hazy. On the 16th we kept {landing along the {hore at the diftance of about two leagues. The land we then faw we lup- pofed to be Montague Ifland, and came to anchor about four o'clock in the afternoon* In the evening of the i8th, a breeze fprung tip, when we weighed anchor, and flood in for the fhore* After a variety of unfuccefsful attempts, Wc gave up all hopes of making Prince William's Sound, and our captains agreed to fleer for Crofs Sound, thinking it proba- ble that fkins might be procured there, Notwithflanding all our endeavours and conjedures, we found ourlelves difappoint- ed in our expcdations of falling in with F Crofs ti m i m li ••'ill m I'il [ 34 ] [1786. \ t 1 1 [ t J i; P' i; h lii Crofs Sound -, the Bay of Iflands was there- fore thought the moft eligible harbour for us to make, which was about ten leagues to the fouth-eaft. We had a favourable breeze, and expccced fpeedily to make this harbour ; but in the morning of the 10th of Sep- tember, a heavy gale of wind came on, and continued till the evening, when a flat calm fucceeded. About three in the morning of the nth, a heavier gale cnfucd than that which we had experienced the preceding day, accompanied with rain, which conti- nued till two in the afternoon on the 13th; when the weather became moderate and clear. After this gale we found ourfelves about tQn leagues from Cape Edgecombe. Every thing proving contrary to our wifhefi, and even our expectations, we no longer entertained hop«-s of making the Bay Iflands, but determined to fleer for St. George's Sound. Still, however, we intended to keep with the coafl, thinking it pofliblc that we might accidentally meet with a harbour. At noon on the i8th, being then fleering eail, we faw land right a-head, and flood diredly for it. At feven o'clock we were well in with land ; but feeing no harbour nor inhabitants, we flood to the fouthward. Early mOo there- ur for ues to ireeze, hour ; f Sep- n, and t calm king of n that ceding conti- 13th 5 te and irfelves )mbe. wi{hei»» longer (lands, eorge's ed to offiblc with a being -head, 'clock ;ing no to the Early 1786.] [ 35 ] E:irly in the morning of the 26th of St'ptcmher, a moft vio'ent ftorm of thunder and lightning came on, accompanied with a heavy rain. The claps of thunder were loud and tremendous beyond conception ; and the lightning was fo aftonifhingly fierce, that the people upon deck were for a long time blinded ; every fla(h was attended with a ftrong fulphureous fmell. About five in the morning of the 27tb, we made fail, and ftooa for the harbour at fix o'clock in the evening; the entrance into Nootka Sound bore north. At ^vq in the morning of the 28th, we again bore up to the Sound ; but finding it impoflible to make the harbour, having had fome light airs and a heavy fwell to contend with, we hauled to the fouthward. At fix o'clock in the evening, the commodore informed us that it was his intention to quit the coaft,and proceed for Sandwich Illands, at the fame time diredting us to (leer fouth fouth-weft. In the morning of the 29th, a breeze fprung up from the weftward, which enabled us to fhape our courfe according to the frefk in- ftrudtions we had received. Before night we loll fight of the coaft, and all our hopes of making King George's Sound were loft for the feafon. I -I F2 We C 36 ] [178^, We were remarkably unfuccefsful in our endeavours to gain a fccond harbour on this inhofpitable coaft. Our dilappoint- ment at Crofs Sound and Bay Iflands pro- ceeded chiefly from wrong informations \ c^iid our not making Prince William's, or Nootka Sound, can only be attributed ip unfavourable winds and weather. i^, CHAP. I in our lour oa ppoint- ids pro- rations \ mSt or uted IQ 1 I 37 ] CHAP V. [1785, Recount of the furs colleiied in Cook's River — Proceed for the Sandwich Ijlnnds — A fiery meteor obJerved-^Defcnp" tion of part of the coajl ofOwhyhee, DURING the fhort time we were in Cook's River, we collected about fixty otter-fkins of the firft quality, and nearly the fame number of an inferior kind. We alfo filled three puncheons with the fkins of foxes, racoons, marmots, and other animals, The fuccefs of our commodore, in this particular, was, I believe, equiva- lent to our own. Jit HAP. We experienced, on the 4th of October, fome heavy fqualls, and clofe foggy wea» ther. During the night of the feventh, a ftrong gale blew from the weftward j but it grew moderate in the morning of the 8th. In the evening of the nth, a fiery meteor was feen about the (hip, which did not a little alarm our feamen, who, though they have fpirit to attack ariy real danger, are often fuperftitiouf y terrified with ima- ginary evils. What tended to convince them that this phaenomenon portended mif- chief was, that, during the night, we had a heavy gale of wind from the Ibuthward, accompanied with much rain. On the 12th, ]M I [ 38 ] [1786'. R!|m|| !ii! I2tb, about nine in the morning, the wea- ther grew moderate, and blew a frefh breeze. From the 14th to the 24th, nothing par- ticular occurred, excepting that we caught three large iharks on the firft of thofe days, which were very acceptable, the oil of them being found eflentially ufeful for dif- ferent purpofes about the flup* Some birds appeared about the vefl*el on the 25th, fome of which were fo very tame that they might have been caught by the hand, without much difficulty. Some of our ofljcers were of opinion that they were the ftriated fand-piper, defcribed by Pen- nant. The weather was variable, but tolerably fine, from the 25th of Odober to the 7th of November. On the 8th it was immo- derately fultry, and lightning flew in almoft every dire(5lion. It continued thus on the 9th, in the evening of which it increafed to a very alarming degree. A violent guft of wind arofe in the morning of the loth, attended by a heavy rain. It was not, however, of long duration, for it grew mo- derate in the fpace of an hour and an half, and [i786t le wea- a frefti ng par- caught fe days, oil of for dif- 1786.J [ 39 ] and we then experienced 1 cool and tempe- rate air. On the 9th we caught two dolphins, and on the 1 2th a fhark : in the belly of the latter, a fowl was found, and part of a turtle; it was therefore a natural conjec- ture that we could not be at any great dif- tance from land. We were indeed pretty certain that Atoui was under our lee. ml 'eflel on ;ry tame by the Some of ey were )y Pen- olerably the 7th I immo- 1 almoft on the creafed |ent guft e loth, as not, w mo- an half, and Sand-pipers, in great abundance, flew about us in the evening. At two o'clock in the afternoon on the 13th, we found ourfelves well to win ward of Owhyhee, one of the Sandwich Iflands which we in- tended to touch ati we therefore fteerecj more to weflward. On the nth we caught feveral fharks, in one of which a whole turtle was found. In the afternoon of the 15th, we faw high land, about the diftance of ten leagues i we congratulated each other upon this circumftance, as it was known to be Monakeah, a mountain on the ifland of Owhyhee. Its fummit was then covered with fnow, and, perhaps, like Mount Senis in Savoy, is hardly ever free from it. On the 1 6th, about ten in the morning, we (leered weft by fouth, with a fine breeze, At m If {}, .'1 m I ha ■t-H. i^ t 40 i I7ii6j At the diftance of about three miles front fliore. Wc faw Mowee about two o'clock in the afternoon, about {qvch leagues dif- tant. The weather was now pcrfedlly clear, and we had an opportunity of obfcr- ving the land on the coaft of Owhyhee. It has a beautiful appearance, feeming to be formed in didindt plantations, and all in the highteft ftate of cultivation. Trees of evcrlafting verdure decorate the higher grounds, and limpid ftreams meander through the foil, increafing its fertility, and adding to the beauty of the enchanting fcene* Karakakooa havings for feveral reafons, been thought an improper place to anchor in» a refolution was taken to examine ano-» ther bay towards the fouth-^weft. This bay had been furveyed when Captain Cook was here, and we fuppofed it would afford a good harbour; but the breeze dying away early in the afternoon, feveral canoes came about us j in confequence of which we hove to, and purchafed of the natives, hogs, plan- tains, potatoes, &c. A moft feafonable fup* ply 1 many of our people being much af- Sided with the fcurvy. It is indeed fur- prifing, coniidering how little frcfh provi- iion we had lately had, that the complaint was not more general. During 4 ^'4 » es front > o'ciock 'ues dif- perfe^ly if obfcr- ^hee. It ng to be id all in Trees of ; higher meander ility, and lebanting [ reafons, to anchor nine ano* This bay Cook was afford a ing away oes canne we hove ogs, plan- iable fup* much af- deed fur- ;{h provi^ complaint 1786.] [ 41 ] During the night of the i6th, the wea-^ ther was extremely fultry, attended with inuch lightning, and a dead calm ; but a br-eze fprung up in the morning of the 17th, and we (tood for the bay which has been mentioned : but, wifhing to purchafo as many neceflaries as poffible, the com- modore fent one of his mates to examine the bay, and the Ihips lay to, in order to traf- fic with the natives. The mate returned, and gave very fuhftantial reafons why there was no fafe anchorage in it. Upon this infor- mation, we abandoned every idea of anchor^ ing at Owhyhee, though it was our inten- tion, if the wind would permit, to continue fome time about this part of the iflanr., well knowing that hogs in abundance might be procured. Among other curiofitles brought for fale by the natives, were fmall circular bafkets, beautifully wrought, the wicker-work be* ing curioully variegated with fcarlet twigs, Thefe are probably of a new manufadlure, as nothing of this kind was (hewn when Captain Cook vifi ted thefe regions. In the afternoon of the 1 9th, Mowee then bearing wefl, it was refolved to make the eaflerly point, and come to an anchor there, k^ . ^ but n m ^ i m s 11 !|:'!| During »^i*'; :^-:, [ 42 I [1786. nil!''; but contrary winds would not permit us to abide by that rciolutton. After playing off and on, and occafional- ly coming to an anchor near the fhore, in cxpedlation of being attended by canoes with hogs and vegetables, we faw Owhy- hee at the diftance of about feven leagues, and came to a refolution to make it as foon as poflible. A freih breeze fprung up on the evening of the 25th from the fouth- ward, which continued almoft unabated during the 26th and 27th. Afterwards it continued hanging to the fouthward, and we now gave up all intentions of making Owhyhec. Not being above a league from Morotoy, on the 28th feveral canoes approached us, bringing a few fmall hogs and fome vegeta- bles : but this fupply was fo inadequate to our wants, that we came to a refolution of ileering for Whahoo. We faw that iftand in the morning of the 29th,'and at noon the Eaft Hummock bore weft fouth-wcft, about the diftance of eight leagues. In the forenoon of the 30th, we ftood fouth-wcft, with a fine breeze at fouth-eaft. The weft end of Morotoy bore fouth-eaft, tnd Whahoo fouth-wcft, diftant about two league*. Ill [17^6. it us to afional- hore, in canoes Owhy- leagues, : as foon ; up OP e fouth- jnabated wards it ird, and making Viorotoy, ched us, e vegeta- quate ta ution of at iftand noon the ft, about we ftood >uth-eaft. mth-eaft, 30ut two leagues. 1786.] [ 43 ] leagues. At fix in the afternoon we an- chored in the bay we lay in before, and at no great diftanee from our old fituation. In the evening we moored fliip with the ftream anchor and cable. On the I ft of December we received the early viiits of a great number of canoes, chiefly laden with water, which they dif- pofed of on the fame moderate terms as be- fore. Some hogs and vegetables were alfo brought us, but not proportionate to oui wiHics, or even our neceflities. Anxious to know the caufe, we were informed that thofe articles had been tabooed till the king had been on board our veff^ls, and that his arrival was very fhortly expe(fled. We had completed our water on the 3d, at two o'clock in the afternoon ; and the natives were defirous of bringing more, fo delight- fid were they with the reward they obtain- ed for their labour, . . .,, _, * ^ ■..'';,...,•....-.,. .. Teereteere, the king, honoured us with a vifit on the 4tK. He came in a double canoe, attenc^ed by two nephews, and ma- ny other chiefs. The king has a refped:- able appearance, is tall, and well-propor- tioned, but feems to have weak eyes. His age is about forty-ei^ht years. Kis ne- phews were inconteftibly the fineft fellows - G 3 we Ml i m If. 1 m I [ 44 ] [lySfi. m Pill I i\ we had feen In any of the iflands. The el* dcr was named Piapia, and the younger Myaro. Piapia is indeed fomewhat disfi- gured by the lofs of three of his fore-teeth, but he is otherwifc a very graceful perfon- age. It was not, however, in battle that he was deprived of his teeth : he volunta- rily parteci with them, as a token of refpcdt to the memory of three departed friends i it being the cuftom here for thofe who are chiefs, to part with a tooth on the death of a near relation, or any other perfon whon^ they tenderly regarded, ijis arms and legs are curioufly tatooed, 'Myaro, the other nephew, is eredt, de-» licate, graceful, and majeftic ; and his countenance is animated and expreffive. Teereteerc, after receiving feme trifling prefents from Captain Dixon, quitted the veffel about three o'clock in the afternoon. Soon after his return, we were much more abundantly fupplied with hogs and ve- getables than we had been before, which we attributed to his influence among the people : and there cannot be a doubt but We attributed it to the real caufe. During the 5th and 6th we were all en- gaged in bufinefs— fome were employed in taking in wood from the natives, which they cheerfully >^ II u i 1786.] [ 45 ] )unger ^ : disfi- 1 -teeth, ,, erfon- e that lunta- refpedt ids } it 1 10 are 1 sath of m whon% ™ id legs 'J 1 id his m ■effive. J rifling ^ ed the i rnoon, J I more »1 i ve- J which M ng the m 3C but ^ ^11 en- i yed in | h they | lerfuUy J 'ti^^fl cheerfully fupplied us with, on the fame moderate terms, that they furnifhed us with water -, others were killing and faking the hogs ; and fome were engaged in the very necefl'ary bufinefs of overhauling the rigging and repairing it. I'l iA CHAP. [ 46 ] [17S6. 1 C H A P. VI. JTtftted by Tetreteera^ king of Whahoo-^The natives at- tempt tojieal the whale-boat. — Jprieji comes on board-^ his method of taking the ava, — Account of an human fa- crifce. — The injujlice ofTeeretcera.'—Ptapia refolves to come to Etigland,-^Depart from Atoui, ON the 7th, 8th, 9th, and loth of De- cember, the wind blew fre/h, and the fea ran too high for us to exped to be vifited by maqy of the native ; but the king and his attendants came on board fe- veral times during thofe four days. He never omitted bringing fome trivial matter with him, by way of prefent ; but he was trebly overpaid by the generofity of the captain. It was indeed extremely neceffa* ry to purchafe his friendfliip and protedlion, as we knew he could have tabooed the in- habitants at his pleafure, and not fuffer a canoe to appf-oach the fhips. Our whale-boat, while we remained at anchor in this harbour, was generally fe- cured to the (hip's ftern. Strict attention was paid to her, to prevent her being ftolen ; but in the evening of the i ith, before the rifing of the moon, feveral canoes were ob- fcrved about her. The captain therefore in- ftantly 4 .1 [17S6. 786.3 [ 47 ] stives at- n board-^ human ja- refohes U ofDe- fh, and it to be but the oard fe» rs. He matter he was of the jceffa* tedion, the in- fufFer a ined at ally fc'- tention ftolen ; "ore the ere ob- bre in- ftantly Aantly fired a mufkct over them, and they fled with precipitation. The next day we caught a large (hark, and made a prefent of it to the king, who in return fent a fine hog on board by his fon. The youth, however, poflefling more craft than honefty or honour, fold us the hog for a large toe; fupprefling the cir- cumftance of its having been exprefsly fent by the father as an equivalent for the fhark. Having obferved a bay to the weftward of our fituation, which feemed to promife a good harbour, the commodore fent three of the officers in his long-boat to furrey it. On their return, which was early in the morning on the 15th, they reported that they could find no good anchorage in any part of that bay. Among the few vifitors who were per- mitted to come on board, an old prieft made his appearance, whofe authority we found was very confiderable. He never came without two attendants, one of which pre- pared his Ava, and the other waited on him as afervant. Though Captain Cook has men- tioned the Ava, and the manner of taking it, a few words upon that fubjed: may not be unnecelTary. The Ava is a root ufed folely u Hf :i ^1' mi i I ■ m t 48 1 [1786. fclely by the chiefs, and Is thas prepared by a fervant kept entirely for that purpofe* He chews a fufHcient quantity till it is well mafticated, then puts it into a woodea bowl, pours a little water over it, and llrains the liquor through a cloth. Thus prepared, the Aree or chief drinks it with a degree of eagernefs and fatisfadtion. This beverage creates intoxication, accompanied with a kind of ftupefadlion, and is pro- bably as perniciouis, as an Englifhman would think it filthy and difgufting. From the ufe of that, or fome other caufe, the prieft appeared much emaciated and difeaf- ed, his body being covert:d with a whitifli fcurf. In the HiOrning of the 14th we faw a number of natives bufily employed on a diftant hill -, and about noon the next day they were lb advanced in their work, that we could perceive they had been building a houfe. The fame afternoon we were deferted by all the canoes, and none of them returned to us in the evening. We were fomewhat furprized at this circum- {lance ; becaufe, on every preceding even- ing, feveral women came on board, and continued with our men the whole night : this intercourfe being allowed, becaufe it CQuld not be prevented. It % \\m\ prepared purpofe^ ill it is wooden it, and . Thus ,s it with n. This mpanied is pro- glifhman r. From mfe, the d difeaf- ; whitifli ve faw a red on a next day Drk, that building we were none of ng. We > circum- ing even- oard, and )le night : becaufe it It 1786.] [ 49 ] It is certain that the people were ta* booed, for, on the 16th, not a lingle canoe was to be Teen in the bay ; but round the fpot where the temporary edifice was ered:- ed, the people were very numerous -, and in the evening feveral large fires were made at a fmall diftance from that flrudturc. * ; On the 14th, about ten in the morning, a man came on board with a fmall pig as a prefent, and alfo gave us a branch of the cocoa-palm: the priefl too paid us a fe-r cond vifit ; and about noon Teereteere ar- rived, bringing with him a hog, and fome cocoa-nuts. Plenty of canoes now came about us, and we were convinced that the taboo was takeh off; but we could not ob^ tain any certain intelligence why it was laid on. We were informed, however, that fome folemn feftival had been held on the fummit of the hill; and we gathered, from different information, that there had been an offering of a human facrifice, but of what fex we could not learn. The wo^ men flill continued under the operation of the taboo, and none of them were permit,- ted to approach -the fhips, ,; About two oVlock in the morning of the loth, a fudden guft of wind parted our fmall bow^r cable; but after much diffi- culty and trouble, we found the anchor, H and I s ■ I! 4i^ L 50 ] 1786.} ' th and got in on board in the morning of the 19th. We were now pretty well fupplied with hogs and vegetables ; but no women were permitted to come on board the (hips, and we were made acquainted with the rea- fon. A woman had been detedled eating pork in one of the veflTels, from which thev arc always tabooed on fhore; her crime was conlidered of the firft magnitude, and (he really became a facrifice to appeafe the wrath of their deities, for fo atrocious an ofFence, This ceremony occafioned fo many people to afl'emble on the mountain, and the flriifl taboo that had been impofed. There was, however, another reafon for their being fo numerous. The king had ordered the houfe to be ereded on the hill, to ferve as a repolitory for the various ar^ tides which the natives might receive from oar fliips. When the building was comr pleted, orders were iffued from him for every one to bring the things he had pror- cured, to his (lore-houfe, and there depoflt them. Thefe orders were inftantly obeyed, and the confcientious king framed a plaa^ fible pretext to keep half of them for his own ufe. This conduct was fo oppoiite to equity and juftice, that the prieft did not fcruple, when on board the Queen Char- lotte, to exprefs his dcteftation of it in the moA pointed terms, and fiatly charged him ■ . with i -M 1786.] '7«6.] [ 5' ] ig of the fupplted • women he (hips, the rea- :ing pork thev arc rime was and (he ^eafe the )cious an ioned fo ioiintain» impofcd. afon for king had the hill, rious ar- eive frond vas comr- him for lad pro?- depoilt ! obeyed, a plaa- for his )ponte to ; did not en Char- it in the rgcd him with ( ■. with deceit and fraud. It appears, howe- ver, from this tranfacftion, tiiat the king has abfolute authority* In the morning of the aoth, we weighed anchor and made fail, and at noon wc were about ten miles from the bay. Piapia, the king's nephew, was on board the commo- dore's (hip, accompanied by Teereteere's Ava-chcwer. Piapia was indeed fo much attached to the commodore, that he refolv- cd to go to England with him ; and the attendant exprefled arr'' inclination to go with him. Several canoes, in which were many of the relations of the two adventu- rers, follov/ed the King George to a con- fiderable diflance from Whahoo ; and, at their feparation, which they fuppofed for ever, they teftified their grief by their la- mentations, wringing of hands, and other cxpreffive tokens and gefticulations. Piapia and his fervant (hewed fome concern at parting; but their attention was almoft wholly occupied on their new adventure. At noon on the 22d, theifland Oneehow bore we(t fouth-weft ; Wymoa Bay, where we propofed to anchor, being to the fouthward. About four o'clock in the af- tfirnoon. Captain Porilock came to anchor, and we prepared to do the fame at a con- venient diftance. We found no bottom H 2 with I I! I W km m.i f ii m m i ■fM' [ ^52 ] [178^. with eighty fathom line, and heing una- voidably drifted to leeward, we could not make the fituation we at firfl: propofcd j but at fix o'clock we came to a ?ood fitua- tion in eighteen fathom water, almoft a league from the King George, and above a mile from Ihore, ., ■ ;. When thefe iflands were dllcovered by Captain Cook, he firfl: anchored at Atoui, where he found hogs and vegetables in great abundance. In the morning of the 23d of December, canoes came round us in great numbers, laden with hogs, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables., They were very moderate in their expedlations for roots and nuts ; but., finding us pretty eager in purchafing large hogs, their demands were at firft ex- orbitant for fuch as came under that def- cription ; but, upon our appearing indif- ferent', they grew more reafonable in their prices, and we could buy one of their lar- geil hogs for one or two toes. On oui requefting them to procure us water, they brought us fome of a moft excellent quaity, and continued to fupply us on the lame moderate terms that the inhabitants of Whahoo had done. The regular price of cocoa-nuts was five for a fmalliih nail. The taro and the fugar-cane were plenti- ful, fine, and cheap. - ■^ On ■■?* [1786. ng una- )uld not opofcd 5 )d fitua- .Imofl a id above ' ^. • vered by it Atoui, in great the 23d d us in ;oa-nuts, noderate id nuts ', rchafiing firft ex- :hat def- indif- in their heir lar- On GUI water, excellent 5 on the labitants lar price Ih nail. ; plenti- On I : 1787.] [ 53 ] £5 ■J '/ On the 25th, being Chriftmas-day, wc had much conviviality and good cheer; and, as ufual, toafted our friends and mif- trelTes. The weather was variable, but mode'* rate, till the 4th of January 1787, by which time we had packed five puncheons of faked pork; but hogs were not fo plenty as we had found them. We fufpedted this fcarcity to be artificial. From the 4th to the 9th, we were barely fupplied with a fufficiency for our immediate confumption. Befides the articles for food, the natives faded largely i.i fifhing lines, mats, cloaks^ necklaces, caps, and many other curiofities. Numbers of beautiful bird-fkins, finely preferved, were.alfo offered to us. At our requeft, they furnifhed us with many of thcle birds alive : they^have a long beak, the wings and back are brown, and the breaft and throat of a fhining red ; their fize does not exceed that of a fparrow. They are certainly a fpecies of the hum- jTiing-bird, defcribed by Penjant. We paid fo liberally for thefc, that a variety of other birds were brought, and, among them, a fpecies of the teal, or wild duck. Concluding from hence, that plenty of ' game i'X. mi I ■ M m ill' m f'lf ml m [ 54 1 [1787. m: I: 1 I game might be found upon the ifland, and being fond of the divcrfion of (hoot- ivgy Captain Dixon took his gun on (hore, attended by only one fervant in an In- dian canoe. He was apprehenfive, how- ever» that he (hould not experience much fport, fuppoling the curiofity of the na- tives would induce them to crowd about him : but he found himfel^ midaken, for the inhabitants applied themielves fo clofely to their manufa(ftures and other employ* ments, that they could not find leifure to obferve his proceedings ; he therefore tra- verfed the country at his eafe, and met with no kind of interruption. But game were not fo plentiful as he expedted^ thcngh he generally returned with a few of the tro- phies of the field. r Our wood was, by this time, confidera- bly reduced ; we therefore applied to the natives to procure us fome : they readily engaged to furnifh us with any quantity, nearly on the terms we were fupplied with that article at Whahoo, though the natives here were obliged to fetch it from the mountains. So great a value did they fet on iron, that they brought even their poles, rafters, and fences for iale : fome of them even demolifhed part of their habitations, and exchanged forafmall quantity of that eflimable metaK In I '4 ! .1 i [1787. ifland, fhoot- {bore, an In- , how- emuch ic na- i about Len, for ) clofcly :mploy- jifure to bre tra- let with ne were c'igh he the tro- 1787.] t 55 ] In the morning of the loth oi Janoary; the commodore made the fignal for weight- ing anchor ; but we were at that time be- calmed, and could not poflibly anfwer his fignal ; Captain Portlock therefore came again to anchor where he had before been ftationcd. A ftrong breeze fpringlng up, we weigh- ed at fix o'clock in the morning, on the nth, and made fail for Oneehow, where we exped:ed to have come to anchor by four o'clock; but the wind proving unfa- vourable, we could not even attempt it. After many difficulties and difappointments, we again made for Onechow, the wind hap- pening to fuit, and anchored in Yam-Bay, in the afternoon of the 26th. 4^! m 1:1 i m li mfidera- d to the readily uantity, led with natives rom the they fet ;ir poles, lof them stations, of that In The wind blew fo frefh on the 27th, at north north-eaft, that our fituation was far from being agreeable. We were principally induced to come to Oneehow, to lay in a ftock of yams, they being the only root in that iiland which will keep for any length of time. The furf ran fo very high as to deter the canoes from coming near us. The King George laying about two miles from us, we hove up our anchor on the 28ih, and came to at a convenient didance from her; m \''\ w •If • C 5^ ] [1787 her ; foon after which we were informed, that the commodore, during the laft gale, was obliged to cut his cables and run to fea, and found it extremely difficult to wea- ther the breakers at the north point of the Bay. . . .. ii 1 1 < -■ ■•* • ■ ♦ * • », . ' ■ X J . » * I t i . «|I:M it J. \ CHAP, i7«7-] [ 57 1 CHAP. vn. n '* point of •' t r X I . Procerd to fFy/fioa-BtVy J^toui — Are viftted h Abbenout ond his (on — The kiiit^ comes on hourd — Severai offiun of the Jh'ip take a little tour up the countrj — SiVtraJ of the offcen entertained hy Jbbenoue. AT two o'clock on the 29tli, the wind being wellerly, Captain Portlock made a fignal for weighing anchor, and by three we made fail. The wind fhiftinj^ to north-weft, we determined to make Wy- moa-Bay, Atoui : this we accomplirhed, and anchored there about ten o'clock. We moored here with both bowers on the 3i{V, intending to (lay while the weather would permit ; this bay being much more eligible than the road at Oneehow. Abbenoue, whom we had before feen at Oneehow, came often on board, and ren- dered us many fervices. When we faw him before, he had a diforder in his eyes, and his body was covered with a whitifh fcurf; but having, purfuant to our advice, difcon- tinued the ufe of that filthy beverage ava, heappeared healthy, vigorous, and adtive. He had a fon named Tyheira, who alfo fecmed inclined to aflift us, but we found he afted trom mercenary motives, and was in every refpcift lefs cflimable than his father. We I were m 1 4 I ii :'':■ ,0 m * • ''I ''I ' CHAP. [ 58 ] [1787. 'I' ^ were much indebted to two other chiefs for their goods offices, their influence having procured us great quantities of hogs ^n4 vegetables. For fcveral days we received all our fup- plies from thcfe chiefs, none of inferior rank coming near us. They informed us that the common people had been tabooed, and could not furni{h us with water, or any other article, till the king had been or^ board our (hips. We could not learn the caufe of this taboo being impofed, but con- jed:ured it was meant in order to exadl ^ kind of tribute from the common people, for perqiiitting thqm to traffic with us. The king paid us a vifit on the 5th of February, in a large double canoe, with a numerous retinue. Piapia, who went from Whahoo with the commodore, was one of the attendants : he had abandoned the idea of going to England, and was refolved to remain at Atoui. When we anchored there, and went afliore, be fpund hirnfelf among his friends and relations, many of whom he had never before feen. It is not therefore to be wondered at that he changed his relojution. The king, who pow honoured us with h^s M m 4 [1787. icfs for having gs and ur flip* inferior med us ibooed, or any een or^ am the ut con- exadl ^ people, us. 5th of with a It from one of :he idea Ived to ichored hipifelf nany of t is not :hanged us with h^s 1787.] [ 59 1 *!& his prcfence, is named Tiara. He much refembles Teeretcere, king of Whahoo* who is his brother, but furpafles him great- ly in knowledj^e -.md undcrftanding. He afked feveral fluewd and pertinent queftions rcrpe by way of amufement and recreation. Not being able to land from our boat^ on account of a great furf, canoes were politely provided for us, and we were landed fafely, commo- dioufly, and expeditioufly. Before we pro- ceeded on our little tour, Abbenoue con- duced us to a placCj to let us fee what was preparing for our dinner* His fervants Vvere employed in cleaning a fine hog, which he informed us was to be baked, and he I 2 pointed I*; i 1! • M %■■'• i'-.f! l;«l;! ir. n » <\ •■' [ 60 3 [1787. pointed to fome tare, which was meant to be eaten with it. He wifhed to be inform- ed if there was enough for us, and, being anfwered in the ;fiffirmativc, he cxprefled much fatisfadion. , He then entreated us not to go too far, as the hour for dining was twelve o'clock, which he fignificantly explained by pointing to the fun. • Having heard frequent mention of a vil- lage which the natives called A Tappo, where a manufadlure of cloth was carried CD, fome of us propofed to make that the place of our deftination, as the diftance was not more than three miles. i The inhabitants, prompted by curioiity, crouded about us on our iirft landing, but our people walking different ways, the na- tives divided into parties, and none of us were much incommoded. One man ten- dered his fervices to fhew us the way to A Tappo, and to attend us the whole day for a large nail. We agreed, and he con- duced us thither. It is a large village, ju- dicioufly fituated behind a long row of cocoa-nut trees, which (heltercd the inha- bitants from the immoderate heat of the fun ill its meridian. We ^ 1787. nt to brm- being re fled o far, :lock, inting a vil- "appo, :arried lat the iftance loiity, but le na- of us n ten- yvay to )le day 2 con- ge, ju- ow of iiiha- of the We 1787.1 t 61 ] ited We were dlfappointed in our expedlations of feeing the inhabitants at work in their refpcdtivc manufadtures. When we arriv- ed there, .they quitted their labour and gathered eagerly about us, intrcaiing us to accept of the little kindneflTes they were ena- bled to beftow : fome ran to the trees to gather cocoa-nuts, which they prcfented to us with great complacency and rcfped ; others intreated us to repofe ourfclves un- der the ihady branches of the trees, which were planted before their little manfions ; fome kindly furnifhed us with water to al- lay our third. Everyone was adtivc in rc- lievirrg our wants, or endeavoaring to con- tribute to our fatisfadion. ; ; Thinking we fhould be too late for din»- ner if we continued any longer at A Tappa, we agreed to return; and, at that inftant faw Tyheira, who had two reafons for fol- lowing us to this village ; one, to hinder the people from incommoding us, and the other, to atouaint us that the repaft would be ready by the time we got back to our land- ing place. He afterwards meanly requefted us to make him a prefcnt for his care and attention, and colIeur boat, for US4 In CHAR [ 64 ] [1787- , j ^^ CHAP. VIIL Arrive at Wymoa Bay^ Atoui — -find the inhabitants tthoo- ed.-^Attetnpt to niake Owhyhee — Steer for the American coaji,-^ Arrive at Prince ff^illiam*s Sound. — Captain J)ixon takes an excurfion in a whale-boat, -^Find the Nootka^ Capt, Afeares^ in a creek, WE had not been long here before we were attended by a great number of canoes, which brought us large quan- tities of yams ; an article we much wanted, having nearly expended all our roots. In the afternoon of the 17th, the wind being to the fouthward, we weighed anchor, in- tending to make Atoui, (hould the fouther* \y winds continue. Early in the morning of the 26th, we worked through the pafTage between Oru- houra and Atoui. On the 27th we had frefh breezes and variable weather 5 and early on the 28th, having a moderate breeze from the eaft, we came to anchor in Wy- moa Bay. The weather being fine on the ift of March, we expeded the natives to come about us with a fupply of hogs and vegetables -, but we were only attended by a few of the inferior chiefs, who informed us that the inhabitants were tabooed. The chiefs Ill i ..«M llillil Its Uhao- 4mey ican -Captain 'Find the ore we lumber quan- V an ted, ts. In d being lor, in- buther- tb, we n Oru- we had r ; and breeze nWy- on the lives to ogs and ided by iformed d. The chiefs i ■i' '4 <*a Hi 1787.] [ 6s ] chiefs however brought us a fmall quantity of taro. We were apprehenfive, and perhaps not without reafon, that the king wanted to get rid of us, and had therefore tabooed the people, to prevent our receiving any refrcrtiments : he perhaps fufpe if tl i\ Iff! m W '! . ;r m . !!< ! 'i 'i ' ' I ill [ 66 j 7^7-1 ttvo miles of Whahoo, on the weftern fide, we lay to, in expedition of being furnifh- ed with provilion ; but only two canoes came near us, and they had liardly any thing to difpole of. We flood to the weftward, and early in the morning of the 12th, iaw Atoui : about noon we were in Wymoa Bay, not far from where we had before anchored, and flood on under an eafy fail, hoping the inhabitants would bring us fome hogs and vegetables.; but not a canoe appeared* This was an adoltional proof that Tiara Avas determined to ft{^.rve us from his do- mini-ons. We therefore defpaired of pro- curing any quantity of hogs, but hoped to obtain a Kipply of yams from Oneehow :— that however depended on the wind* Towards the evening of the r3th, the fky grew black and lowering, and the air was alfo intolerably fultry. It rained incef- fantly during the whole night, and the ftorm was accompanied with thunder and lightning to a tremendous degree. On the 14th we had alternately light a'rs and calms; but in the afternoon, a frefli breeze fprung up at north eafl, on which we haul- ed oui' wind to the fouthward, expeding early in the morning to bear away for Oneehow -, 1 i 'Ml 3th, the d the air ed incef- and the nder and On the a^rs and fli breeze we haui- expeding away for >neehow ; 1787'] [ 67 ] Oneehow ; but, in the morning, the wind fliiftcd to Ibuth-eafl: ; when Captain Port- lock hauled his wind, and fleered north- eaft, ]n the morning of the 16th we had cleared all the iilands, and fleered due north for the American coaft. \ . In the morning of the 17th, we had a brifk foutherly breeze ; in the afternoon the wind was variable, and in the night we had feveral fqualls, wi^h thunder, light<- ning, and inceflant rain. We had a heavy gale of wind in the morning of the i8th, with rain, and a pro- digious fwell. The gale continued the whole day, and a confiderable part of the night, when it was fo very dark that we lay to. We made fail at five the next niorning, the v^eather being then pretty moderate. ^ From the 19th to the 23d the wind was frefh and variable ; on the 24th and 25th we had frequent fqualls. We had then clear moderate weather till the evening of the 29th, when a frefh gale fprung up from the wefl. The weather grew moderate in the morning of the 3ifl:, and in the after- noon we had light variable airs. In the evening we faw feveral pufiins^ a young K 2 feal ■• ,• r. » I ' ^;M ■ ■ J )'i :1 'I 'i: m''- m I •:;!»' 11 [ 68 ] 1787.] feal appeared along-fide ; certain indica- tions that land could not be far off; but the weather was fo foggy, that it mud have been at no great diflance when we could difcern it. . . On the ifl, 2d, 3d, and 4th of April, it blew frefh, with very little variety, from fouth-eaft to fouth-weft. The nights be- i : ; very dark, we generally lay to, and made fail early in the morning. On the 7th, we faw a great many birds, among which were gulls and divers ; and, on the 8th, a fea-lion was obferved playing about the veiTel. From the 9th to the i6th, we had frefh variable winds, with fleet and fnow. The weather wa3 immoderately cold ; on the 16th, the thermometer was two degrees and a half lower than it had ever been in Captain Cook*slaft voyage. From the i6th to the 1 8th, the weather was fo hazy that we could not get an obfervation ; nor could we difcern land at any diftance ; we there- fore plied occafionally, not knowing how far we were from the American coaft. Oh the kSth, towards the evening, we had a fudden fquall, but received no injury. The wind blew a frc(h gale during the night J M. 1787] [ 69 ] night; but it moderated the rtext morning, and the weather was fo clear as to perknit us to take a meridian altitude. On the 20th, 2 1 ft, and 22d, it was hazy, and we had plenty of fnow and fleet. We plied with the greateft caution, ivell knowing that the coaft could not be iar off, and we could not lee land were it within the diftance of a league. Early in the morning o> i ) 23d, the weather was pretty clear, '^d A noon we perceived land at about te.. ^e: goes diftance, bearing from north-eaft to vvefi. At noon we faw land from north-v f to weft, about ten leagues diftant. In the evening wc were convinced that the land to the weft: was Foot Ifland, and that to the eaft Mountague Ifland ; confequently we were ft:anding well for Prince William's Sound, which wc attempted to make when we were laft upon this coaft:. Towards the clofe of the evening, the fouth-eaft part of Mountague Ifland ftood north 32 deg. eaft, about five leagues diftant. In the morn- ing of the 24th, having a moderate breeze from the weft, we let fail, and ftood in right for the paflfage, and at noon we were right in the entrance of the channel. This place is errontoufly laid down in Captain Cook's — '^ general !|V.» I ■ i ■ : yff f. 70 ] qi! I, 1787.] mn % general charts, which was now afcertained by a careful obfervation. / ^ In the afternoon we had a calm, and confequcntly were unable to reacli the Sound ; we therefore ftood into a deep bay, which now opened to the eafl:, and came to anchor at lix in the evening, . • Our commodore was partly induced to come to anchor, from his feeing two ca- noes at a pretty confiderable dillance up the bay. He was convinced that we were not far from inhabitants, and thought it pro- bable we might have fome traffick witU them. ' ^ . - Five canoes attended us in the afternoon of the 24th, but without furs or any other commercial article. The people faluted us with friendly gefticulationr^ and wereturn-r ed the falutation. On our afking for No' ioorieJJmc, a term they ufe for otters' fkin, they frequently and earneftly repeated the words Nootka NotooneJJmc, at the fame time pointing towards Prince William's Sound. Some dogs on board, hearing the voices of Grangers, began to bark at them. The In- dians immediately called out, Towzer, Towzer, /jerel-^^nd whirled like the Eng- lifh likL lySyO [ 71 ] :''\ Jifh, when they endeavour to entice a dog to come near them. From hearing thcfe people fpeak Enp:-« liHi, we Gonjedured that fome Britifh vef- fcl lay in the Sound at that time, or had lately been in that fituation. ^ ;; The ears of thefe people were decorat-^ ed with a number of blue beads, which wc fuppofed they had been furnilhcd with by the Ruffians : we v^ere confirmed in this opinion, when they difplayed fome iron weapons, which bore evident marks ot Ruffian fabrication. . . ;■..'• . 1 . .. . ' . ''.II In the morning of the 25th our boats were fent on (hore for wood and water, which were both procured without diffi- culty. Our captains in the mean time went round the bay, but found no inhabi- tants nor habitations; whence we conclud- ed, that our vilitors were only waudereis from Prince William's Sound. We pje- fented them with fome trifles, as an induce- ment for them to bring us fome furs, and to prevail on others to do the fame. They feemed to have a grateful fcnfe of the fu- voLirs which had been conferred on them, and promifed to return fpeedily, and bring with them a large quantity of fkins. ...J . ' We H :1 PI* . ' ' » I ! '^ ' . I I ' r n ] 1787.] k ! i i|i' ! 1 1 f i' i '1 ' ^'l', 1 ; i I i 111 We waited, in anxious expcdatlon of a fccond vifit from thefc Indians, till the 28th ; but we beheld them no more. In the morning of the 29th, having a fine breeze at fouth-weft, we unmoored and ftood out of the bay, but when we had reached the channel leading into the Sound, we were becalmed. The tide was againlt us, and we were obliged to tow the vef- fcls Ui again. At eleven we came to an- chor in twtfnty fathom water. On the 30th the weather was moderate, but we receiv- ed no vifits from the Indians, Geefe, ducks, gulls, and variety of fmaljer birds, were plenty in this bay, but they were too fhy to fufFer us to come within mufket (hot of them. A fpecies of polypus, pofleiling both an animal and vegetable fubftance, was taken here by our people, with a hook and line. :. . On the id of May, having a breeze at fouth-wefl:, we unmoored at two o'clock, and ftood up the channel towards Prince William's Sound. At fix, being clofe in fliore, and a calm corning on, we anchored in a bay to the eaftward. In the morn- ing of the 2d, having a breeze at fouth- weft, we weighed anchor and flood for the channel, between Montague and Green lllands ; .a dangerous paffage, in night or bad t. 'jM. 1787.] [ 73 .1 bad weather, being in no part a mile in breadth free from funkcn rocks. In the evening, a light breeze enab'ed us to get into a biy in Montague IQand, and we came to about nine o'clock. Being now in a focure harbour, it was agreed on that the two iliips (liould be fe- verally hawlcd on ihore, that ihcirbuaoms might be thoroughly Irrubbtd and cleaned. During this operation, Capt. Dixon took the Queen Cnariotte's whale- boat, and the King George's whale-boat and long-boat, to go in I'earch of trade, wherever he thought it probable he might find inhabitants. Care was taken however to have all the boats well manned and armed, and his excurlion was attended with fome remarkable cir- cumftances 5 the fuhftance of which we Ihall relate, as it was communicated to us on the captain's return : His primary intention was to make Hinchinbroke Cove, but bad weather ren- dered it neceflliry to put into a cove in Montague Uland, about eight o'clock in the evening ; but, as the weather grew moderate about nine, he proceeded to a large bay, near the north-eafi: end of the ifland. Here he faw fome Indians, who tpld him they belonged to Cape Jlinchin- L brookcj '■'\ i : ill 1 » ' ■■ ' '1 . t ' t ' ■ 1 * t :^ '.il'' 'if [ 74 3 [1787. if '(■,.1 |:f' brooke, but were tben on a hunting party. Growing late, the captain came to an an- chor in the long boat, to which the whale- boats were made faft, one on each fide. The Indians continued to fkulk near this fpot, after night came on ; therefore fix hands were ordered to keep watch, and the reft to have their arms ready in cafe of a furprize. Captain Dixon weighed early in the morning, and anchored at Cape Hinchin- brooke about eleven, where he faw feveral Indians, and bought fome otter-fkins. Thefe were of a different tribe from thofc he met with in the bay north-eaft of Montague Ifland ; their behaviour was daring and infolent, and they feemed in- clined to attack the captain and his little crew. They did not, however, quit the boats till day-light the next morning, and then paddled away, feemingly difconcerted and diffatistied. The captain and his guard found it neceflary to be extremely vigilant during the whole night. Early in the morning, he fet off for Snug-Corner cove ; but there was fo little wind, that the whale-boat, were obliged to tow the long-boats and he did not ar- rive at the plage of deftination till ten o'clock 1787.] [ 75 ] o'clock at night. He faw no inhabitants, at that time ; but he ordered a flri(5t watch . to be kept, recollecting that the Difcovery was boarded by the Indians in this very cove, even in open day, during Captaia Cook's lali: voyage. He faw none of the natives, till day- light on the 8th, when two of them ap- peared in a canoe, acquainting him that there was a fhip at fome little diftance, and tendering their fervices to condu(fl him to it for a prefent of fome beads. He rea- dily embraced their offer, and fet off with the whale-boats ; leaving the long-boat at anchor, fearing it might retard his pro- grefs. The weather foon grew very bad, and his guides deferted him. He continu- ed the fearch, however, till almoft noon; but heavy fqualls, and ftorms of fnow and fleet, made him refolve to return to the long-boat, where he arrived about four ia the afternoon. : f ;i^^ .■ .1, 1 Six canoes came into the cove about fe- ven o'clock. The captain was again in- formed that there was a vcffel not far off, and the Indians offered to be his guides ; he went with them in his own long-boat, leaving the other two in the covft. At ten he faw the vefTel in a creek. Sue was a L 2 Inow, [ 76 ] [1787. '■11 I';' V, • la-:: Inovv, called the Nootka, from Bengal, commaiuled by Captain Meares : She had i'ailed from Bengal in March 1786, and touched at Ooonalafka in i\ugufl. Captain Meares then informed Captain Dixon, that he found a paiTage to Cook's River through Whitfuiuide Bay, and that he faw fome Ruffian fettlers, who told him they had a fettlement at a place called Codiac ; that two European veffels then lay at Codiac, and that two other Ihips had been lately {QQn in Cook's River. After receiving this intelligence, he re- folved to fteer for Prince William's Sound, and arrived there late in the month of Sep- tember. Captain Meares had wintered in the creek where he then was -, and the fcurvy had made terrible devaluation among his people : two of his mates, the furgeon, and a great number of the foremaft men, had been carried off by that malignant diforder ; and the reft were rendered fo feeble by its attacks, that Captain Meares was once the only man on board able to walk the decks. He exprelfed great latisfadlion on being informed two veliels were fo near him, who would Bengal, 5he had 16, and Captain in, that hrough V Ibme y had a : 5 that Codiac, n lately , he re- sound, of Sep- in the fcurvy ong his urgeon, : men, lignant ired fo Meares able to 7S7.I [ 77 ] 1 being , who would would doubtlefs afford him fuccour or re- lief. Captain Dixon afllired him he might depend upon being furniflied with fuch ne-* celTaries, as he and Captain Portlock could fpare. Captain Dixon quitted the Nootka early in the morning of the 9th, and got to his boats at nine : at eleven he ftood for the fliips, and, as he crolTed the Sound, fome canoes came round him ; and one of the Indians had a few fea otter-fkins to difpofc of. Obferving a frying-pan in the long- boat, he defired to have that in exchange for his fkins : his terms were complied with, and the frying-pan tendered to him. He defired fome of the captain's people to break off the handle, which he took, and with which he feemed exceedingly delight- ed, and threw the bottom part away. Ve- ry rough and flormy weather came on af- terwards, with inceilant fnow and fleet ; and Captain Dixon did not arrive on beard the Queen Charlotte till four o'clock in the morning, on the loth of May. In the morning of the loth. Captain Meares, and his firft mate, went in their own boat on board the King George, hav- ing feveral bags cf rice with them, to ex- change for fuch articles as might mod be wanted. Vi ^ m ;■ -h I 7» J [1787. I '( wanted. They informer js :haf the fur trade had been carrier on for fc \.q years, from different parts oi" the Eali-Ifi Jies.They related many extraordinary ftories refpedt- ing their great fuccefs -, but, as the captain and mate varied tolerably in their accounts, we gave but little credit to their tales. They, doubtlefs, might have procured a vaft quantity of good furs, and thofe, per- haps, chiefly in Prince William's Sound. Captain Meares and bis mate left the captains Portlock and Dixon about noon on the loth, having firft received a fcafon- able fupply of brandy, molaffes, fugar, flour, and fome other articles which we could fpare. The commodore even fpared Captain Meares a couple of his feamen, to affifl: in conducing his vefTel to the Sand- wich Iflands. ■■■ M t We r i4i ing fouth-weft, we ftood up the channel for Prince William's Sound -, and by two in the afternoon we faw the north point of Montague Ifland. About four, Cnptaiii Dixon went on board the King George, to take leave of the commodore, being neai* the fpot where we had agreed to feparate. About eight he returned to his fliip, and we parted company with colours flying, and three hearty cheers. Early in the morning of the 15th, Cape Hinchinbrooke bore north- weft, about fe- ven leagues diftant; whales in great abun- dance were feen about the fhip -, at eight in the evening we faw Kay's Ifland. On the lyth and i8th, we had moderate variable winds ; and in the afternoon of the latter we beheld Mount Elias. In the evening of the 19th we had a ftrong breeze and heavy fwell, On the ioth, 21 ft, and 22d, we had moderate variable weather. At three in the morning of the 23d, we ftood in for the wefternmoft point of land, and at five we were within two miles of Ihore. About half after fix, one of our mates was fent into a bay in the north-eaft, in fearch of anchoring ground. He returned between eight and nine, with the pleafing intelli- gence 1787-] [ 85 ] gcnce that lie had fotind a ^ood harbour^ and Iccn a muhitiide of inhabitants. The wind finkln^s vvc found it impraflicable to i^ft to the defired Hation by day-Hght, and came to at ciL;lit o'clock in lixty fathom water. Wliile we were warping into t'ne hay, leveral canoes came round us, and the people in them Teemed to be of a different nation from thofc we had Iccn in Prince William's Sound ; their canoes were alfo very differently co:iffruded. Southward of our fituation, we faw a narrow creek, :jnd on the 24th we faw a grcu many In- dians on the beach near the entrance of it, who beckoned us to come on fhore. Cap- tain Dixon went to furvey the place, and faw a great number of inhabitants, and fome temporary huts. Soon after we weighed, and began to ply into the har- bour which the mate had found for us, and at two o'clock in the afternoon came to q.l^ chor at a fmall diilance Irom the fhore. •'! •Tl I Not far from us were two large Indian huts : we were f ion attended by fome of the inhabitants, amoni; whom was an old man, who brought us feveral fea otter- fkins. This was a plealing circumftance, and induced us to fuppofc that no trading party had been in this quarter -, but we were foon convinced of the contrary, when they ^, ^.. ^ ^ ^.^ ■*^>.1^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■i^ ^ §22 L£ 12.0 us jWj) 1.25 III 1.4 1.6 ^ ^ 6" ► V /] Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRICT WIBSTCR.N.Y. M5S0 (716) 872-4503 h C\ \ ;\ '<^ 1)^ [ 86 ] ['787' 1 they exhibited the fame kinds of fpears, beads, and knives, which we had feen in Prince William's Sound. We were now JOG fenfible that we were only the gleaners pf the harvefl. ... The* we continued ten days in the bar-' hour, we could only procure fevcnteen fea ptter-fkins, tyvro cloaks of earlefs roarm»ts« ^nd other inferior fkins and flips ; altoge- ther hardly fufficient to fill one puncheon, The natives had indeed cxhauftcd their ilock of furs. They were jUfo fo delibe- rate and dilatory in their mode of traffic, that much time was taken up in dealing iivith ihcin for the moft trifling articles^ fuch as dirty remnants of fea otler-fldns, ^c. Their inethod of dealing was, tp raifc our expe^tions, by hinting that they had brought .foipething valuable, and after endeavouring a long time to make advan- tageous terms for themfelves, they produ- ced their commodity : much time was then Jofl: in the completion of the bargain, and a day was frequently fpent in the purchafe pf infignificant artipl.cs. Suppofing ourfclves the firft difcovcrer^ of this harbour, Captain Dixon named it Port Mulgravc, in honour of Lord Mul- grave. Our anchoring-place is fituated in 59 deg. :ov€rer§ Lmed it Mul- lated in 19 deg* 1787.] [ ^7 i 59 degi 22 min. North lat. ana 140 degi Weft long. Here were geefe and wild ducks, and Captain Dixon went frequently on fhore to amule himfelf with Ihooting. The number of inhabitants about us did not, perhaps, exceed feventy or eighty : chey are in general well (haped, and of the mid* die fizci Like the other inhabitants wt have ken upon the coaft, they delight in painting their faces with a variety of co- lours, fo that their real complexions are abfolutcly mafked. By prefents and perfuafion* wc prevatled on a young woman to wafh her face and hands, and we were aftoni(hed at the effedt which that limple operation produced i ruddy health bloomed in her cheeks, and her face and neck were hit. Her eyes were black, piercing, and expreflive ; each under the canopy of a black femicircular browj as regular as if it had been pencilled by the hand of a Gainlborough or a Rey- nolds. The fymmetry of the whole faccj, and the form of the contour, were highly pleafing. To fpeak without raptures, (ha came the nearefl to a divinity of any female we had feen lince our departure from Eng- land ; and even there (he would be ranked among the beautiful. Some w mn^- I.^ ilii [ S8 j (1787'. Some of the women, as a mark of dif- tmdlion, have an aperture in the thick part of the under lip, in which they always wear a piece of wood. The lower part of the face i.s greatly diftorted by this ftrange kind of ornament. Conception cannot frame any thing riiore wretched than their huts : poles irregularly fixed into the ground, inclofed with loofe boards, conftitute their habitations. The holes and chinks, which are pretty nume- rous, anfwer the purpofe of a chimney to let out the fmoke, no aperture being ex- prefsly made for that purpofe. The infide of thefe hovels is filthy and abominable beyond defcription, and yet the inhabitants are perfedly fatisfied with their conditi- on, and even enjoy life under thefe fecm- ing difadvantages and inconveniences. They would perhaps creft more comfort- able houfes to refide in, had they a per- manent iitiiation ; but thefe are only tem- porary refidences -, for when their means of fupport become fcarcc, the little man- fion is taken down, and conveyed in a ca- noe to fome more plentiful fpot, where every man eredts his own portable habita- tion ; though a total flranger to the name of Palladio or Inigo Jones, and indeed to the order§ of architedure. We lit itk!' 1787-] [ 89 J We were furniflied with plenty of hali- but by the Indians, two of whom were angling for thofe tidi, at the fame time and place where many of our people were en- gaged in the fame employment ; but, tho' our tackle was infinitely fuperior to theirs, we were not half fo ficcefsful. They have a fingular method of dref- fing their vidluals, by laying pieces of fleSi, fi(h, 6cc. into a kind of, wicker baiket, over which they put heated ftones, and cover it up clofe. The difpofal of the deiid in this country is fomewhat extraordinary. After feparat- ing the head from the body, they are feve- rally wrapped in furs : the head is put into a kind of fcjuare box, and the body into another, which has fufficient length, breadth, and height, to receive it. At each end of the latter, a long thick pole is driven into the earth in a flanting pofition, f(5 that the upper ends meet, and are faften- cd with a kind of rope. The box with the. head in it, is placed about two feet higher than that which contains the body, on a piece of wood which goes acrofs, and is fixed firmly to each pole. Thefe tombs, if they deferve that name, are decorated according to the fancy of the furviving re- - ■ • 1 N larions : .it , ivS r^m iiiwi C 9^ ] [«787* lallons : fome with teeth, and others with the fl.-lls of various fifhes, but all the poles are painted white. We had no op- portunity of feeing the funeral rites per- formed here, none of the inhabitants hap* pening to die while we were refident on the fpot ; this account being given from taking a view of their cenietary or general repofitory for their dead. I ■ rr «A CHAP, '■'l< '787-] C 9' ] .'t CHAP. X. ^it Port Mnlgrave — Anchor In Norfolk Sound — Various proceedings there — Perfom^ manmrs, and cti/iotns of the inhabitants of Norfolk Sound, CAPTAIN Dixon, thinking the fur- market exhaufted in Port Mulgrave, came to a refolution of quitting it as foon as poffible : a breeze fprung up from fouth- eaft, in the morning of the 4th of June, and we warped out of the harbour ; and at eight we made fail. During the remainder of the 4th, and the whole of the 5th, the winds were moderate and variable, '. ■ , - ■ • At five in the afternoon of the 6th, we faw mount St. Elias, which bore north- weft, about twenty leagues diftant. We had moderate and variable weather from the 7th to the i oth -, but on the evening of the latter, and the whole of the nth, we had a frefh breeze from the weft. About three in the afternoon it was hazy, but we faw land at the difliance of about four miles. . . At two in the morning of the 1 2th, we ftood in for a bay we had feen the prece- ding day, not far from Cape Edgecombe, which appeared to be an excellent harbour. At five we fent our whale-boat a-hcad to N Z louqd li. n :'. M i , ■■'■•.■\ ' ih / [ 9^ J [17S7. found. At {^^t\\ we beheld a large boat full of people, but could not particularly diftinguiih theobjcds which were on board: as they drew nearer, we knew it to be an Indian canoe, and, when they came along- fide, we found they were inhabitants of the found we were fleering for. Abdut fix, we lofl the breeze, and the whale-boat was jufl returned i the yawl was hoiftedout, and both boats were employed in towing the vefid into the bay. In the mean time we purchafed a few furs of the Indians in the canoe, who informed us that we/fhould meet with plenty of people and furs in the adjacent harbour. W'=^ were pleafed with this intelligence, the \"e did not abfo- lutely rely upon the t4ath of it, . .:•. ;• » i>. i»."i At ten o'clock we faw a bay to the north- ward, and flood right in for it. One of the mates was fent up the found in fearch of a harbour; and another into the baya-'head, to examine the foundings. The perfon who had been fent to ^examine the foundings re- turned about twelve o'clock, informing ns that the bay was a commodious place for the velTel to lay in. After making a few fhoit boards, we anchored at twelve o'clock in nine fathom water. • • ru «: In the afternoon, the other mate returned from 1787-1 [ 93 ] from his furvcy, acquainting us that he had found feveral good harbours in many refpcdts, but that the bottom was rocky ; the captain therefore determined to keep his prefent fituation : he further informed us, that he had found in a cave a human head in a box, decorated with fhells. Early in the morning of the 13th, feveral canoes came about us, when the Indians who were on board them fpcnt feme time in fmging, and fAerwards produced a num- ber of fine otter fkins, which we purchafcd of them, and congratulated ourfelvcs upon the profpcdt of our having an excellent trade. We had a conftant fucceffion of traffic till the 1 6th, when it began to decline, though the Indians then promifed to procure a fup- ply of fkins from their neighbours. On the 1 6th, a frefh gale from the fouth caufed a heavy fea to enter into the bay -, but about eleven o'clock at night, the weather grew moderate. From the 17th, to the 2 1 ft, we had but little commerce with the inhabitants. An intelligent old man among them informed us, that* two fhips had an- chored there, and fhewed us a ihirt which fome of the people on board had given him, which we found, upon examination, to be made after the Spanifh fafhion. Though ' j !^ I- ■r' <■ :,; p i/i-' t 9^ } in^j' Though trade was our principal concern, other neceflary matters were attended to j parties were occafionally fent on fhore to procure wood and water. • -^ Though the natives were, at firrt, tolera- bly civil, they afterwards grew troublefome, and attempted to pick the pockets of ouf people, and even ftole their faws and axes in the mofl daring manner ; nothing indeed but coercive meafures could reftrain them from thefe proceedings. This place was diftinguiftied by the name of Norfolk Sound, in honour of the duke of Norfolk. "■' 1 » I V Buring the greater part of the time we Jay here, the weather was moderate. Wild currants, goofeberries, and ralpberries, wcrf found in sreat plenty. ' , ^ 7 , , The number of inhabitants found here is fuppofed to be i« ^out five hundred. The people, in form and features, refera- ble thofe of Port Mulgrave j and the faces of the women are ornamented with paint and wood in the fame manner. The man- ners and difpofition of the inhabitants, however, feem rather to sccord with thole pf the natives about Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound, ; " '/ ' ' Wc « • i , . ; v^ •ili^ i;87.1 r 95 1 ' We could not avoid obferving that they always quitted us about twelve o clock, and went on (hove, where they were engaged about an hour in eating ; an evident proof that they have a certain time of dining, which is regulated by thcwfun. They al- fo left us about half an hour after four in the afternoon ; but not with that prccifion and regularity. Their apparel is compofed of fkins fewcd together in various forms and fafliions. One of their chiefs obtained a prefent from fome of our people, of a Si^ndwich Ifland cloth, and the next day appeared along- fide of our fliip, dreffed in a coat which had been made of it, cut in a form not unlike that of a waggoner's frock in England, and feemed as proud of his habit, as a London common- council man, when he iirft ap- pears in his mazarine gown, Exclufive of their common drefs, the natives of Norfolk Sound have a peculiar kind of cloaks to defend them from incle- ment weather. They appear to coniift of reeas few^d clofely together. The encouragement we met with here, with refpedl to trade, was not to be com- plaine4 of. We purchafed no lefs than two il^ ■, 'f:riM ._ iii- t 96 ) I«7«7-; two hundred prime fea otter-fkins; half that number of good feals ; and fine beaver tails in abundance, befides a great (Quantity of flips and remnants. CHAP, 'i-i^ 1787.] [ S7 ] >, itii ' •' i-^'' *» li^-' i .1' CHAP. XI. • S.. i<'/»^;if Norfhik Sound — Anchor in Pott Bnnh — Rcnfonx for quitting it — Find a great number cf Indiam^ uihn trafjii largely with us — SiVi-ral other parties of Indiant trade ivith us, — Arrive off ^teen Charhtke's Ijhnds. HAVING a light wefterly breeze 011 the 23d of June, we weighed at fe- ven o'clock in the morning, and made fail. We kept along the coaft, pretty near the land, that no opportunity might be loft of finding new dealers. In the atternoon about feven, we faw a ^wii entrance, which ap- peared to be a river; but the tide fitting ftrongly out of it, we flood into a fine har- bour which opened to the fouth^e2 ] [1787. ' j ■■ , .1 Inflead of coming to anchor, it was (thought the heft method of promoting bu- fincfs to ply along the (hore. The weather was moderate during the night, and in the morning of the 6th, our laft vifitors re- turned with fomc fine Tea otterrcloaks, which we purchafed of them. It is remark- able that thefe people were particularly careful to conceal, from their neighbours, jthe articles they had bartered for. The Indians having left us, we made fail about two o'clock, and flood along fhore^ Standing in for land m the morning of the 7th, we faw a deep bay, and fleered dired- ly for it ; but perceiving there was neither harbour nor inhabitants, we bore away to the fouth. At three in the afternoon, fer veral canoes came off from fhore. They came from a fmajl ifland, where they lived together in a large hovel. The afcent to this ifland from the beach is very fleep, and the other fides are fortified with pines, &c. This kind of fortification giving it the ap- pearance of a Hippah, we ponf^rrgd on it the title of Hippah Ifland, From feveral circumftances, we drew a conclufion that the favages of this place, were more ferocious than the other? wq had met with on the coafl : we even fuf- pedted I'll! '■^itJil J787-] [ loj: 1 pedled them to be canibaisi their hoftile appearance coincided in favour of this conjedure, being ftrongly armed with knives and fpears. They alTumed, howe- ver, an appearance of gentlenefs and good- nature, and ftrongly importuned us to come on (bore 5 where it is probable thty would not only have butchered us, but we fhould have furnilhed them witji a repaft. The number that we faw of thefc Indians was about thirty ; we bought of them a great quantity of good cloaks and fkins, and, feeing no other canoes approaching, we made fail about feven in the evening. About nine o'clock in the morning of the 8th, the Indians from the Hippah Ifland, whom we had traded with before, came again along- fide. Having fold us their prime articles before, the furs they now brought us were of little value. We purchafed their whole flock -, they quitted us, and we made fail. In the night we flood off and on, intend- ing to be near land at day light. In the morning of the 9th, five canoes came out to us, with about forty Indians, of whom we purchafed fome cloaks and fkins. Among thefe people was an old man, who inform- ed wa 44 [ 104 ] {ly^r* •ti'ir 1, IKI m. ii: ,i ff k Ii' ii''i'!i;i cd Captain Dixon where plenty of furs might be procured j for which the Captain rewarded him with a light- horfernfiM's cap, which gave him the appearance of a man of feme importance. •-' '?^'* '*'«'''(;.. • ■♦ ( r?-; ' A few women, chiefly aged, accompa- nied thefe people, whofe under lips were diftorted, like thofe of the women at Port Mulgrave. One of thefe lip pieces v/ere purchafed with fome buttons, after the wo- man had refufed to part with it for toes, bafons, or a hatchet. - ^ *- '^^^ ' H 1 -. . C ■' ' 'In the morning of the nth, we had a fteady breeze, and flood in for land, and kept clofe along fhore till feven o'clock in the afternoon -, when, no Indians appearing^ we hauled our wind to the fouth-weft. During the night we had a gale, with heavy fqualls. The weather becoming moderate the next morning, we ilood towards the land. In the morning of the 13th it was hazy. About feven in the evening it grew clear, and we were attended by feveral In- dians in their canoes. We bought of them fome e^tcellent cloaks and Ikins. They were about thirty four in number, and ex- ceedingly well aimed. d.:- en «* if^- From this time fo tfee 20th, the weather was 'i I "*■■ I ii:i.n■' .< ' lb ' .,..r r - »1 V CHAP. J».ij 1 1 ;.> \Kii i t^ .'i+ 1 '■ il [ no ] C H A P. XII, C»787i 1- . •• • Vbfervctiom on /^ueen Char lot tf^s Ijlundi — Meet two vef- jeliy calkd the Prince of Walei^ and the Prince/s Royal ^ from London — Perfons^ monniri^ and cujloms of the in- habitants — Drejs — Manufutlurei. HAVING quitted the iflands, a few oh- fcivations on them and their inliabi- tants may not be thought improper. From the number of inlets we met with, in coafl- ing along the Hiore, and from our feeing the lame inhabitants on the oppofite fide of the coafl:, it is more than probable that this is not one continued land, but forms a group of iflands. In confequence of which they were diftinguidied by the name of Qiieen Charlotte's JGands, They are lituated from 51 deg. 42 min. to 54 dcg. 24 min. north latitude; and from 130 deg. to 133 deg. 30 min. weft longitude, The great quantity of furs we met with here, renders it probable that thefe people have no intercourfe with any civi- lized nation i and we have r^^fon to flatter curfelves with having the honour of adding thefe iflands iO the geography of this coun- try. We faw but few ornaments among the inhabitants, and their knives were pro- bably 1^' I'll il^l'] [ III ] bably acquired by war, all the tribes Teem- ing to bo hoflile to each other. ... The women indifcriminately diftort th6 under lip, like thofc at Norfolk Sound* Though thefe Indians were, in general, jealous of their women, and feidom per- mitted them to come on board our veflel, yet fome of them not only permitted, but even perfuaded them, to accept of the in- vitations of our people; but their Ible in- ducement was that of plunder : thefe tribes were the muft expert and rapacious thieves of any we had met with. We had now purchafed at thefe Iflands upwards of eighteen hundred fea otter- fkins, many of which were extremely fine, bendcs various other furs : toes were prin- cipally demanded in barter for thefe goods, but our dealers were fo numerous* that we found it neceflary to exhibit many other ar- ticles to pleafe them all. • But to return : At noon on the ctb, we were only twelve miles north of King George's Sound. In the afternoon at fix, we faw Woody Point, about four leagues diilant. At ten in the morning of the 7th, we had a light breeze, and the land about two leagues diftant. At ten we beheld a fail ti ) ■' % y'! m t Ii2 1 1787.] hW to the fouth-eaft, accompanied by a fmaller veflel. Willing to be informed of their deftination, or to what country they belonged, the captain gave orders to tack, and fire a gun to leewards The fignal was immediately anfwered by the fmaller veflTel, which hoifted our company's colours. They fpoke us foon after twelve, and we had the fatisfadlion of being informed^ that they were fitted out by our owners from Lon- don. The ihip's name was the Prince of Wales, Captain Collinett 5 and that of the Hoop, the Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan. Thefe vefTels, which left England in Sep- tember 1786, had fettled a fadory at Sta- ten's Ifland, to colledt oil and feal fkins, and had proceeded from thence to King George's Sound, without touching any where. They had been almoft a month in King George's Sound, but had traded very little; a fhip called the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkeley, having got there Uetore them* The information we received from thefe vefTels, convinced us that no advantage could be expedled by our making King George's Sound ; and they were informed by us, that at Prince William's Soi^nd, their next ^tM ivifft,,. 1787] i 1*3 ] next defilnation, no encouragement could be expededi , The two captains, and another gentle- man froih on board the Prince of Wales, came on board us, where they continued all night ; and in the nlorrting of the 9th, we parted company, fahiting our brother traders With three hearty cneersi As we are finally quitting the AniCricam eoaft, it may not be impertinent to obferve, that, though we have made fomc diiboveries on this coaft, in addition to what have beeti already made, yet fo imperfecflly is it at pre- fen t known, that it is even doubted whe- ther we have yet {ecn the main land* That the coaft abounds with iflands is certain, but whether any of the land we have been near is really the continent^ future naviga- tors muft determine. The animals of this ci^oiintry tliay be known by the fkins we purchafed, and we have fee n dogs among the natives: though they appear to be of the wolf kindj they are docile, and perfedly obedient. , rr The people are, In general, ftraight, well proportioned, jind of the middle ilature; but thin and lean : they have alfo fmall Q. ^.^ eyes, !■■ ■: ■,> y ' 5 i m -'■III I "1 H,', &I 'V ., ,:, I! hi I fix I 1^ f T :! ;, ! « ■;, iiP' [' ''^H' 1 [1787; eyes, and prominent cheek bones. Should thefe Indians v/adi their faces, their com- plexions would be but little darker than thofe of the Europeans. The hair of thefe people is long and black, and is capable of being rendered very ornamental, but they rub into it fuch quantitie^§ of greafe' and red okcr, as to make it appear cxti'emely difgufling, though it by that means be- comes a lafer afylum for the vermin. Some of the w^omen, however, keep their hair in decent order, and tye it m a kind of club on the neck. ,1 s They have not much variety in their drefs. The coats of the men confift of fkins, made in Vvirious forms, but frequent- ly in the iliape of a waggoner's frock j and fome of them have a piece of fur fattened round the waift. The women wear an under garment of fine tanned leather, ex- tending from the neck almofl tp the ancle. Over this is tied round the waift a kind of apron of the iame materials. Therr tipper covering refembles that w^i^ t^^ ^^^ wear, and is alfo compofed o£;|Bf^d4eather. They refufe to wear furs^ andScir rcaforis for it (hew that they are'riot^tql^lly without delicacy. Should their gaf#idnts be worth purchafirtff, which would^ertainly be the eafe if ^ipy were cloathed in valuable fUrs, J^ their .^' ,787-] 4 trfiS^ ] their hufbands would flrip them at a mo- ment's warning, whenever they could find a purchafer for them'. The Indians are much delighted with maflcs, and caps of various kinds, which are decorated with the painted figures of beads, birds, fifhes. Sec. Some of their carvings in wood have been (hewn us, that were not deflitute of merit. , , In their finging, tliey are extremely ex adt in beating tinr^e, either with their hands or padd'js ; and to aflitl: their vocal ej^er- tions, the chief fliakes a kind of rattle with great glee, and accompanies his inftrument with ridiculous grimace^ and gefl:iculations. Thefe Indians manufacture a kindof blanket, compofed of the wool or hair of beads ; they are variegated, and appear not to be woven, but to be formed entirely by the hand -^ they are, however, very neat, and not a little prized an^opg them. Exclufive of their common habits, they have large war-coats, made of the elk-ikin^ tanned and doubled. For weapons they- have fpears fixed to a long pole, and a (hon dagger, ufually fheathqd V) leather, and tied round the body. v"---- m» 0^2 Drie(^ W j: . :.!■ ; ill ;. ', ,> ill ,i '•I; r ,lM ,1 ;.i ' if- :^( li I'! 5'! [ ii6 ] [i787t Dried fi{h is their principal winter food, though in theif hunting feafons, they have great variety ; but broiled feal affords thern the moil luxurious repaiiL. i 'J Barbarous and uncultivated as thefe poor creatures are, they are not ignorantof gaming. One of them^j at Port Mtjlgrave, loft a knife and feveral toes, in a very (hort tinne, at a game played with fifty- two fmall pieces of wqqd, marked in different places with red paint. Though we could not comprehend the principle of the game, we obferved that the excellence of it confided in a judicious arrangement of the feveral fticks or men* Having thus given a fketch of the man- ners of the inhabitants on this dreary coaft, I fhall refume my narrative. ^ 'it*;. From the 9th to the 1 2th of Auguft, we had a frefh breeze at north- weft ; and from that time to the 15th, alternately calms and light variable winds. On the i6th we had a frefli breeze from north north-weft. . In the morning of the fccond of Septem- ber, we fteered due weft, in order to make Owyhee, which we faw early in the morn- ing of the ^th, bearing from fouth fouth- weft» \'»m \ v 1787.] t "7 ] Vveft. Having but a light breeze, we coul4 not fetch the land by day- light. In the morning of the 6th, we bore to ^he eaft -, and feeing feveral canoes at a diftance, we hove to, that we might trarHc with them, and bought hogs and potatoes of them in great plenty. ' . .- About eleven o'clock we were attende4 by a great number of canoes, fome of whom were fo impatient to be ferved, that they even dhMbed up the fide of the (hip. One in particular, feeing we were too much en- gaged to notice him, took a poker from the armourer's forge, and jumped over-board wjth it in his hand. Vain were our threats and entreaties to prevail on him tc bring it Isaek i the fellow fwam off with his booty, and feemed to think himfelf very fortunate. He was foon after taken up by one of the canoes, but while it was making for (hore, feveral mufkets were fired at the thief, and we perceived that he had received a wound, the lower part of his face appearing very bloody. His companions, fearing they* ;night experience the fame kind of treat- ment, brought him along- fide, and lie was taken on board. His under jaw being wounded, our furgeon dreffed it, and the iillow was permitted to depart -, but he firft petitioned :i 1 ■ i I ( iP m Il'"' < Mi m ^ 'ii. I n8 3 [?7«7- petitioned for a toe, and his rcqucft was granted. .; , .. ,. ;. j. : : . ; " .. ' * * About noon v/e faw Mo wee at twelve leagues diilant. Having moderate weather on the 7th, we plied occaiionally, that the people might biing us hogs and vegeti- bles, with which we were abundantly flip-, plitd. At three o'clock in the afternoon, of the 8 th, we made fail and bore up for Whahoo, meaning to wood and water in that ifland. Jn the evening of the oth, we had fome heavy fqualls, but (he weather grew mode- rate about eleven ; and early in the morning of the I oth, we fet fail, Whahoo being right a-head, and anchored in the bay where our fituatipn had been before, at eleven o'clock. This birth, however, not being fo eligible as we could wifh, we meant only to lay there till we could get fupplied with wood and ^yater. j: ,.. r: ' ; .; I / !'.» ■ ' « : I : " 7 Towards the afternoon we had a number of female vifiiants, who were in expedtation of getting hufbauds for tne night. The priefl, of whom we have already made mention, attended as ufual, to pay his re- fpedts to us in the morning of the nth, and to acquaif^t us, that the king intended •I us 1787.] [ 119 i lis a vi(it, befc^re the natives would be per- mitted to fupply cur wants. ^' Teereteere, attended by his nephew My- aro and many other chiefs, came on board about one in the afternoon. He brough; with him a hog and fome cocoa-nuts as a prefent. After making enquiries refpe(!ting the health of Captain Portlock, and ac* cepting of fbWie toes and other articles, he went on (horc, and we foon experienced the effeds of his influence. Wc had af^i letvards fo many water-bearers in our fear* vice, that" wfe iiad filled above a dozen butti before the evening. In the morning of the Tilths oar reiiiai'ning empty cad^s were pre- fently filled. .; - - > I ' ^ -1 -, i • . • ■,.•,,,■.. . . ^ Thefe induftrious Indians were then in^ formed that we required their fcrvice in procuring wood : a ^hint was futiicient ; away they paddled for the {hore, and begaa biifkly to f^irniih us with that necellary ar- ticle. By four in the afternoon we bad a Xufficient quantity. '-^. : :^ w not •! r . »'•' ' The king came a fecond .time on board in the afternoon, and brought a prefent of twa hogs and fome cocoa-nuts. He* waai highly gratified by a patou, which Captain Dixoft ©rdered the armourer to make for him. N i. CHAR ijl' I • if \.l: m m r*' I ■ ; • 'i;-? l- iyh-i t 120 i ' " "c HAP. XIII. /, ^Teereteere cames on hoard to take leave — Proceed to J tout t — Liberal behaviour of the k:n^ and chiefs; Manner^ and cujioms of the Sandwich IJlanders. ,, ...v., AT four o*cl0ck in the mdrning of the 13th, we weighed anchor, and, with a fre(h breeze, made fail for Atoui* Seeing the king putting offi we backed the main-topfail, and he came on board. He cxpreiTed his concern at our fudden depar* ture, but took care to give us a hint of the fervices he had rendered us^ in cauting us to be fo expeditioufly fupplied with wood and water. Captain Dixon perfectly un-^ derftood his meaning, and gave him fome jfaws and axes, with which he feemed high* ly pleaied. •: ■". «. .n-.,i,,ru..r \,,--x i ^ '- ■ - ' ■ M ■..-'..' .^:''r' ■■■■■I :;// l^id 'b-Ji:Vnh \ Me continued on boarel till abovit eleven o'clock, when being neai* Whititte Bay, his place of refidcnce, he left us, with many profeffions of friendfbip and refpeA. In the afternoon we had clofe fultry wea^her^ and variable winds : in the morning of the 14th we had a moderate breeze ; and at eight o'clock in the morning ofth 1 ;i. 1 t 124 ] In^h 4m If i^ i !£,:•: Some return ought certainly to be made for f*^ much kindncfs, The king was gra- tified with a pahou, a kind of baize cloai^ edged with ribbon, and a large toe : neither were the other chicft futiered to go unre-» warded. The ladies on board were alfo liberally decornted with bea4s and buttons, Hogs and dogs were the only quadrupeds we law in the Sandwich Iflands : the dogs are fpmewhat of the cur-kind, The inhabitants of thefe iflands are, in their difpofitions, inofFenfive, friendly, and fprightly ; they are alfo diligent, perferver-> ing, and (trong in their attachments. It is certain, however, that they are much ad- dided to theft; and that they hardly look upon it a crime, for they never appca.r to ihew any figns of rcmorfe or (hame, when they are detected in their pilfering. But let it be remembered, that if any thing is committed to their char^w, they always faithfully reftore it. They are about the middle fize, well pro- portioned, ftraight and flendcr; though many of the arees are corpulent, having, perhaps, too little exercife, and too much food. Nut-brown is the general colour of their complexion, but fomc of the women are much 1^) t «iS ] much fairer, and their hands and fingers fmall and delicate. The people of both fexcs go naked ex- cept about the waift. The men wear what is called a marrow, which is a narrow piece of cloth barely fufficient to anfwer the pur- pof» for which they feem to have intended it. The women's drcfs, called the ahou, is much larger, extending from the waift to the middle of the thigh. Sometimes the women wear 2^ wreath of flowers about the head ; and, inftead of a bracelet, a (hell faftened round the wrift : but the mod be- coming ornament they wear, is a kind of necklace, formed from the beautiful varie- gated feathers of the humming-bird. The men have caps and cloaks that arc extremely elegant, parpcularlv the latter ; the ground of them is net- work, on which feathers are fewec} in alterns^te fquares, or triangular forms of red and yellow. Thsy have really a moft fplendid appearance. Mats are made by thefe people with great ingenuity : fome of them are equal in reat- nefs to any European manufadure. Cloth, which is made from the Chinefc paper mul- berry tree, is neat and elegant, and the pat- terns beaupfuU Pans and fly-flaps are ufed << rt m I i i! ii [ 12^ ] [>7S7 1 •;■■ ^ r ;i. 1 1 .irCw""' ufed both by the men and women ; the former is made iTom the fibres of the cocoa- nut ; the latter are of various kinds. Fifti-hooks, contrived with fo much in- genuity as to ierve for both hook and bait, are made of the pearl oyfterfhell. They alfo make excellent fifhing tackle of other kinds, nets, &c. / ■ * ■ Many of their huts, or houfes, refemble a ftack of hay. The aperture ferving for a door place, mufl be crept into, it is fo extremely low s and the covering confifts of rulhcs. The apartment within is ufually kept neat and clean, and the Hoor covered with a kind of mat. Having but one ^oom, that part gf it on which the inhabi- tants take their repofe, is fo me what elevated, and covered with a finer fort of mats. The houfehold and culinary utenfils, which are placed on a wooden bench, coniids principally of wooden bowls and di/hes, and a few gourds, Their bowls and diflies arc made of wood refembling ebony, and are Anidied and polifhed very neatly. In their fongs, or hecvas, they attend more to the gefliculations of the body, than the i. 1787.1 [ 117 1 the management and modulations of the voice. The Women are the bed perform- ers in their amufements of this kind. They are very flow and regular in the beginning of a fong, fomewhat like the Englifh Quakers in their preaching -, but they gradually be- come quicker and more fpirited, and to- wards the conciufion are very rapid, and affcdt immoderate laughter. •' :>! r.'i Their implements of war are flings, fpears, and bows and arrows. In the ufc of flings, they are amazingly expert. Their fpears are five or fix feet in length, made of a hard brown wood, and barbed at one end. They have a kind of drums to afljft in their concerts, about ten or twelve inches in height, with holes in the (ides, and a hog's flcin drained over the top of it. Their bodies are tatooed, but this prac- tice is not fo general among the women as the other fex ; fome of whom have had that operation performed in a very curious manner. In their falutations, they join their nofes together, and this ceremony is confidered as a token of friendfhip and efleem*. Both the men and women are expert fwimmers. They have an idea of a Supreme Being, or . '1 ; Ml. :n I it: I I ! '1 ,^'■'1 ■' u \ I s Ifll m jife ■ ihT) i vffiji 111 W i wBm jl ^Hi i Im^?! "l t 1^8 3 ftyS;.. or Beings, and in the wor(hip of their Gods are regulated by their pricfts ; who alio diredt their ceremonies at funerals^r The horrid cuflom of human facrificcs i^ certainly adopted by thefe Indians, not-* v^ithAanding their difpoiitions are humane and friendly. They certainly make much nearer approaches to civilization, than the miferable inhabitants with whom we traded on the dreary coaft of America, t ■ !■ ;il l> •' .w ■y-h fif f • ■; V In.- . . ,^ •>V'!'>.i ' 4 -/i.' . V- « » T- 1 f > I r, ^ > * • • * ■ 7J"' t) ( ', I -* .i -.. 1...: ;. . . . i.---|':.' .3, . .•: i^i e'„- ''4 1 C . 7 . V . .. : ' . '• \V:'.\ ?:• f , • :^:> K.\.. 1 • fV ., / ''\ ,J ' ' ■ >' ^^'• i 1 ] •,:''. ' irbii-J* -■; i- • . S ' i. ' • fl r:;. .^ai^'-V r:::; ^'..i , ; r C H A P. 1 • 1 .■' i !• .)■ 4 i' :.^ 1787] [ 129 ] ' CHAP XIV. l^gave Jtoui — Proceed^ fa f China — Pafi the IJJands of *J inian.iAguigan.y andSoypdn — -/Anchor in] Alacno Roads -^^ Leave Macao — Arrive at JVamfo — Difficulties occa' Jioned hv thefupercargoes there, WE weighed anchor in the afternoon of the 18th of September, and made fail. Soon after we had cleared Wy- moa Bay, our friends on board took affectionate leave of us, and got into their canoes. China was our next place of de- ftination. We had a fteady eafterly breeze during the 19th, and part of the ioth, but in the night we had fqualls and rain. From the 2 1 ft to the 2^5th, we had a fre(h breeze from the eaft» ^ We had not much variety from the 25th to the 8th of October, when the weather grew immoderately hot, attended with lightning and heavy fqualls. In the night of the 1 2th, we had two very violent fqualls, attended with much thunder^ lightning, and rain* From that time to the 20th, we had cloudy weather, and a fteady eafterly breeze. At eleven in the morning of the 22d, we faw land, and great numbers of genats fly- ing near it. About noon we faw two S iilands. ■I i ':! ,, I ■i 1 ; I ' j ( ;'! ilj '^ :, i )'*' m ) ir i no ] [1787 '•■'vl: \ iflands, and, when we drew near land, we beheld three iflands, which we fuppofed to be Tinian, Aguigan, and Saypan. Thefe iflands are fo free from rocks and fhoalSj that veflels may fafely run by them in the night with moderate weather. Tinian is the largeft, Saypan the next in dimenfions, and Aguinan the Imallefl:. V/e had not much variety till the 3ift:> when a great fweli fet in from eaft north- cad^ and we had heavy fqualls and rain. On the I ft of November we had a mode- rate breeze, and at night a ftrong gale, which continued during the whole of the 2d. On the morning of the 3d, the wea- ther grew moderate. At two o'clock on the i4th, we faw a fmall ifland to the north, and afterwards another behind it* We found thefe iflands to be Botel Tobago, Xima. In the morn- ing of the 7th, we faw land, bearing north- weft, about live leagues diftant. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we paft fix Chi- ncfe filliing boats, and a great many more about four. At fivQ we faw Pedro Blanco, 'a large rock, diftant about ten miles* In the morning of the 8th we faw the Lema Iflands. At eleven o'clock, we made fignal land, we ppofed to u Thefe id flioals, ;m in the Tinian is menfione, the 3ift> aft north- and rain. [ a mode- ong gale, yle of the the wea- we faw a fterwards ^fe i Hands le morn* ig north- At three fix Chi* iny more 6 Ian CO} faw the X made fignal J787.] [ 131 ] ^1 a fignal for one of the fifliermen to ap-. proach. Soon afterwards an old China- man came on board as a pilot, and produ- ced certificates from feveral captains whom he had taken to Macao. After fome de- bate, we agreed with him to conduct us thither for thirty dollars. About midnight we came to anchor in M^cao Roads in feven fathom water, , '■ , '■»*»'' i : i .* , . i. As foon as it was day light, we faw a (hip at anchor at the diftance of about three miles. We hoifted colours, and flie {hew^ ed Englifli ones in return. At nine o'clock, the captain went on (hore at Macao, to pro-r cure a choppe^ or cuftom-houfe permit, for our paflage to Canton, and to obtain fome other necelTary information. In the evening of the loth, a ChiWfefe boat came along-fide, bringing a gentleman on board. He informed us that his name was Folger, that he had been chief mate of the Imperial Eagle; but, in confequencc of a mifunderftanding between Captain Berkley, the commander of that vefTel, and himfelf, he had left him. He then point- ed to the fhip we had before feen in the roads, informing us that ftie was the Royal Eagle. He added, that he had feen Cap- S a taia vll /I ' 1' t)' 4*^ ,1 ( m m ■ i 1 ', t ■ "^ 1 ifcil W ''M I . 1 1, 2 ?':|:^ Ji.;'. 'iit I'i i^h'.': \\ ^ ¥■ »i 1 J,' ■ I' \^y ;■ ;|v|i C ^3^ ] [1787. tain Dixon at Macao, and had his permif- fion to fail with him to Canton, Mr, Folger informed us, that the Impe- rial Eagle had been no farther to the north than King George's Sound, and that thev had procured about feven hundred prime ikins, befides inferior forts. He ahb told us, that Captain Berkley often fent his long-boat, with his fecond mate, and about a dozen of his men, to traffic with the Indians, where the (hip had not accefs \ and that, upon one of thefe occafions, the fe- cond mate, accompanied by three others, quitted the boat, and went on fhore, taking lome of their commodities with them to barter for what they could get i but neither of them returned. Several of the {Jiip's company landed at the fame place the next day, and foundfome remnants oi their cloaths mangled and bloody 5 whence they could not but conclude, ^hat the unfortunate peo- ple had been butchered, and perhaps eaten. In the forenoon of the nth. Captain Dixon re^turned from Macao, bringing a pilot with him to condu(ft the veflel to Canton. Haying the tide in our favour, we weighed at about two o'clock in the after- noon, and made fail, our deflination being to Wampo, In the afternoon about five, we % f 3 8 permif. the Impe- the north that they [red prime alio told 1 fent his and about with the ccefs ; and s, the fe- ce others, )re, taking I them to )ut neither the fliip's e the next teir cloaths hey could nate peo- ps eaten. Captain pnging a veffel to favour, we Ithe after- lion being >out five, we 17^7-] [ 133 ] we pafled the Bocca Tygris, a narrow paf- fage defended by a kind of fort. Soon after we came to anchor, and a mandarine boat brought a man on board, who, like an of- ficer of the cuftoms in England, came to prevent any illicit trade. Early in the morning of the 15th, we made fail, and anchored at the bottom of Wampo Roads, at feven in the morning of the 1 6th, About eleven the captain went to Canton in a paflage-boat, having firft given directions for the veffel to proceed to the end of the fleet. At twelve we began to warp up the river, and came to anchor in that fpot. On the 23d we received the agreeable in- telligence, that the King George was arriv- ed at Macao ; and at noon on the 25th, fhe came into the river, and anchored near us, her people being full of health and fpirifs. Captain Portlock's fuccefs on the coafl, after our feparation, had been far fhort of that which we hri experienced, but the long- boat had made a fuccefsful tradingr voyage up Cook's Riven In the mprning of the fccond of Decqu- ber. '.)■■ ■• r J' ::1' (, 'it U't ,'» m [ «34 ] 1787.] $ I ■ P I- ^^ :*! i I ber, we were vifited by the fuperintcndant of the cuftoms (by the Chinefe called John Tuck) attended by a numerous retinue. He pretended to meafure the (hip, and then demanded, it is fald| a thoufand pounds as a port charge. Captain Dixon went to Canton on the 4th, to prepare every thing at our fa39 ) At five o'clock on the 3d, we faw the iiland Lufa Para, which bore north-cin-, diftant about fevcn miles. Having cleared the flraights of Banca, we rtood on during the night. From the 3d to the 6th, we had light winds and intervening calms ; the weather clofe and fultry. In the afternoon of the 7th, the Sifters bore fouth-wcft. On the 1 2th in the forenoon we pafTed the Sif- ters, two fmall illands which we had ken ever fince the 7th. We faw North Ifland a- head, where we intended to take in water, early in the morn- ing of t.he 13th, 5 but, h iving a calm, ancj the tide againft us, w^ anchored oppoiite that ifland. By four o'clock on the 1 3 th, being pretty well into the roads, we came ♦^^o in nine fathom water, mooring the veflel with large kedge and ftream cable. North Ifland bearing north-eaft, above two miles diftant. Three Dutch veiTels lay at that time in the roads. ^ ' .••■ . On the 14th, we jfent the long-boat oa fliore for watery and by noon on the 15th, our water-cafks were filled: in the aiter- noon on that day, parties were difpatched from both (hips to cut wood in North Ifland, and at fix they returne4 with a fufft- fknt ftock of fuel. North Ifland is about T 2 two '•■■ , ; i « ffi '♦. »i [ 140 ] [1788. If .U '1:1" !t I two miles in circumference, covered with trees of various kinds, cloathed eternally with verdure, and is therefore an excellent afylum for the feathered race. The inha- bitants of Sumatra are Malays, and many of them inhabit this part of the ifland, to get emoluments from wrecks or vefTels in diftrefs, as well as to trade with the vcllels which .anchor here. From one of the Malay boats, which came along -fide us, we bought fome turtle. Thefe people alfo deal in fowls, plantains, arrack, Geneva, &c. Having taken in a fufficient quantity of wood and water, we unmoored m the morning of the j6th, and with a frefh breeze at weft north -weft, made for the Straights of Sunda. About eleven o'clock, we had heavy fqualls and rain. During the afternoon, the weather was moderate; but in the night we had feveral fqualls, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and rain. Having a moderate breeze, we made fail in the morning of the 17th, and faw the Peak of Cracatoa about noon. From that time to the 2 1 ft, we made but little progrefs in the Straights. In the nights we generally had fqualls, rain, thunder, and lightning. In k***^ .] [ 141 J In the morning of the 2 2d, the Peak of Cracatoa bore weft by fouth, about four miles diftant; and the weather being fine and calm, we hoifled the jolly-boat, and men were fent on (hore to fill three pun- cheons with water. There are but few in- habitants on the ifland of Cracatoa, and thok feem to be Malays. Like Sumatra, this ifland produces turtles, fowls, cocoa- nuts, &c. At five o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we weighed and made fail, with a frelh breeze. At ten in the evening we anchored in forty fathom water, Prince Hani hearing fouth. We made fail at five in the inorniiig ot the 25th. In the fore- noon of the 26th, we endeavoured to work through the palTage between Prince's Ifland and Java Head. At fix in the evening, Java Head bore eafl: by north, diftant ten leagues. During the night we had fqualls and rain, and in the morning of the 2;/th, a frefh northerly breeze. In the morning of the 28th of March, the weather being clear and fiiie. Captain Dixon vvent on board the Kino Georue, and, on his return in the evening, acquauit- ed us that the two veflcls were to feparate, each to make her quickell paflage to St. Helena, Wi i ''■ ■ .\ u' ;:f i t i' :, 4. ;m-|-^ mf\ i.'. ■',].■;?■ li ? M^ m I m Ml'' 4 ;v* "- '1 lit. :; . ■\° :i'! '■ M :: I »42 ] [1788* Helena. In the forenoon of the ift of April, we loll fight of the King George, and, from that day to the ninth, had a fredi pgflerly breeze, with fome fqualls and rain. In the evening of the i6th, we had a great deal of lightning, and in the night a heavy fquall ; but the weather grew mode- rate towards the morning. We had not much variety till the 24tb, when the fhip's company were put to an allowance of two quarts of water per day for each man. - ■I From the 24th, to the 4th of May, no particular occurrence happened : we then jfiw v^ft quantities of bonetta about the fhip, threw out lines v^ith tolerable fuccefs, and regaled ourfelves with the frefh pro- vifion we had thus obtained. In the after- noon of the 7th, we had a frefli wind from the eaft, and during the former part of the night, heavy fqualls, with thunder, light- ning, and rain. About two o'clock the next morning, a moft violent fquall took us, on which we handed the topfails, and fortunately received no damage : but the weather grew moderate by day-light, I About fix in the evening of the 15th, the wind blew a flrong gale at north- weft, on which we clofe-reefed the topfails, reefed the jimi. ^ay, no ^'e then Dout the J faccefs, efh pro- lie after- id from t of the light- ock the all took ils, and but the lit. •> 5th, the weft, on s, reefed the 17S8.] [ Hi ] the mainfail, and fent down the top gal- lant yards : the gale ftill increafing, at three o'clock in the morning of the 16th, we reefed the forefail and handed the topfails ; the gale ftill continuing w'th great vio- lence, and frequent heavy fqualls. At four in the afternoon the pumps were choaked up. Though the ihip*s company were now at an allowance of water, the weather was too ftormy to have it ferved out, and every man fupplied himfelf with what he wanted. Still the gale continued with unremitting violence; at fix in the morning of the i6th, the mainfail fheet gave way, and the fail blew inftantly to pieces. The gale continued with equal violence during the afternoon, the (hip la- boured hard and made a great deal of wa- ter ; every exertion was therefore required to keep the pump-well cleared. Our people had, till now, been in three watches ; but this tempeftuous weather, and the choaking up of our pumps, re- quiring the ftridtsft attentbn, the ihip's company was put to watch and watch. During the night the gale abated, and the weather became moderate about fix o'clock in the morning of the i8th. At eight o'clock a leak was found under the coun- ter, in confequence of which feveral ufe- kfs IV ;•■ !. , c ,! it Ul ill 1 . ''-nil , .1 i 11" i' ■ rt H4 1 1788.] kfs articles which had been (lowed in the run, were hove overboard* ? . - . .^ r We had a frefh g^le, with frcquertt fqualls, On the 19th ; clofe attendance was ftill required on the pump. In the after* noon our pOwder was found loofe arid da- maged, and four barrels of it were thrown overboard. In the afternoon of the 20th , the wind fhified to the eaft, and then to the fouth, growing light as it came from the fouth. In the evening of the 2 1 ft, the wind blew very hard, with frequent fqualls, but grew moderate in the morning of the 2 2d. About ten o'clock on the 23d, we had a moll: violent fquall j; but fortunately received no other damage than that of hav-» ing our fore ftay- fail fplit. ^• The weather being moderate and pretty well fettled on the 25th, the (hip's compa- ny wTre put to their former allowance of water. In the evening of the 27th, it blew a heavy gale, and continued with increafing violence during the night, attended with lightning, rain, and heavy fqualls. No- thing particular happened from this time to the 18th of June, when we ftood for St. Helena with a fre(h fouth eafterly breeze, and fine weather : at four in the morning, that ifland bore north-wcfi, about fix leagues [1788 ielgUes dll^sint ; the whale bpat went oa (hore with difpatches for the governor. We came to anchor at eleven o'clock in eighteen fiathom water, vvhere we had the plcafiire of finding the King George. Captain Portlock, in doubling the Cape of Good Hope, by keeping nearer the land than we had done, and not ha'^ing fo much bad weather, had arrived at St* He- lena fix days before us. Oar principal biifinefs at this ifland was to fill up our water ; no time was therefore loft in furnifhing ourfelves with a fufficient quantity of that article. Wc were alfo defirous of procuring fuch re- frefhments as the ifland would afford : but, as a great number of ihips touch here^ frefh provifions are parted with very fpar- ingly ; we could only obtain three quarters of frefh beef# We unmoored at foul* o*clock in the afternoon of the 24th, and made fail, having clear weather and a light eaflerly breeze. About eleven on the 2 5thi James- town bore fouth-eaft, ten leagues diftant* Our palTage from St. Helena 10 Dover produced nothing particularly remarkable ; and we. arrived off the laft mentioied place U on ["■1 I "1 'ii '» i ... 'S-l y 1 ! r- i»' .! i MM rfir JH'J I «' ^ I "I [ ^ 3 1788.] on the 17th of September, where we had the pleafure to be informed that Captain Portlock had been moored in the Thames about fourteen days, his (hip's company he- ipg all in perfedt health. THE END. p I Sir i^ lilt. Si ii ! liili i'i| if :t ;ve had Captain rhames any he-