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P. i ' f : \ I .1 I / 'i QUEBEC : S, >IARCOrrE, PRINTER & PUBLISHER, ( 1^ PREFACE.. .^^nred as containing notes ui pect to im capabilities. ^, m,t 4^ k-^ A TRIP TO MANITOBA. LETTERS FROM MR. TROW, M.P. • (To THE Editor of the Strafford Beacon.^ Deaxi Sir, — I ask you and the numerous readers oftho Beacon to excuse my delay in fulfilling my promise to fiirnisli you weekly with sketches of my ramblings in the jS^orth West. Tlie only reasonable apology I am ptepared to offer is, the route to the head waters of Lake Superior has been so often described by excursionists, that nothing new could be presented of Interest to jour readers ; and beyond that point one is, com,3arakvely speaking, shut out from society for some weeks— no postal communica- tion, and lio facilities for writing, unless citting in your tent with a boulder for your writing desk could be digni- fied with the name of comfort. At convenient intervals. however, I took jottings by the way, and now eml^-^noe the earliest favorable opportunity of presenting thti. » the readers' of the Beacon. On the morning of the 9th of July, accompanied by two of my sous, I wendedmy way to Shakespeare station. On tlie tiiiin, according to arraiigeiuciit, we met our mutual friend, Mr. Win. Davidson, Reeve of Fullarton, bound for Manitoba. In Toronto we overtook our ^^eouipaniou-in- arnjs," Mr. 'I'lios. Matlieson, Mayor of Mitchell, light- hearted and sociable, prepared for any emergency ; pos- Hessc (1 of no cjvrc, bwng his own earthly adviser, audlike a silk worm couUl wrai) himself in his own garment ; livo on land or sea, and if the chapter of accidents should land him beneath the waves of the great lakes, or make him, fall a, i>rey to the (;rnelty of the '^ untutored savage," he would U ave no chasm in society, unless in the hearts of many fair damsels who hav^e so long endeavored in vain to persuade him that a life of ^'single blessedness" wan never inteniled *l)y the Creator for His creatures. How dilKerent is the case of tlie manied man ! His cares are legion. Before atten>pting to move, he must of necessity consult his *^ other self, " accpiaint his family Jind his wife's relations ; and his bank(5i' must not be overlooked ; he has calls to make ; debts to meet ; funds to j)rovide for himself and for the maintenance of his family during liis absence ; may Ix^ chancery suits or possibly contested elections to watch j should he, fortunately, happeu to be, like the Treasurer of Ontario, the lucky possessor of a handsome suri)lus, sonu^ honest man must be found to in- vest or s(j'?/«wtZ;iss the Union Station east and west, and yet you are i>ut to the expense and inconvenience of hiring' a conveyance to remove your baggage from one station to another, returning upon the same track. Snch a feeling sliould not exist. The differ- ent companies should work more iiarmouionsly together. The public who pay for the construction of these great thoroughfiires have rights which should be respected. For the first 45 or 50 miles we pass thiough a beautifully rich, undulating country, embellisluul with substantial mansions, conunodious b«irns and outhouses, erHon overboard after Iier i)et canary, liefoie passing Cabots Head, wo sighted a wreck- ed steamier — the Mary Ward — on the rocks,probably a mile or more from shore. Eight liv^cs were lost at tlie time of the disaster. Many unsu('<*essfal attempts have been made to remove the wreck. During tlie nigiit we passed Owen Sound, and before morning we encountered liead winds. A tremendous lurch or two Jiad the ell'ect of bringing many on deck much earlier than they anticipated, and gave tliein an o[>i>ortunity of seeing what they ])robably never saw before — the sun lising. .Many strode the deck witli a erioi'H dtH*p waters. Tlio're is her* a Hafe and coniinodioiiH liarbor, adorned at the entrance b^ a cluster ot ishinds on which agates and other pre- cious Rtones are found. From this ])oint Ave paas through deep and capacious cliann<'Is, hliilfs and i)ronion lories, many rising abruptly hundreds of leet above the water, and in one or two instances over a tliousand feet, clad Avith stunted trees. lied Uock, an old Hudson 15ay sta- tion, is reported to be tlie l)est lisliiug ground on the north shore, and here several Americans left the boat to tish. Tiie lion, .lanies Himpson and family intended spending a t'vw weeks in the locality. Retracing our steps, we enter Lake ^ui)erior about daybreak, aud speedily arrive at Silver Lslet, a diminutive spot but containing the richest silver veins in the Avorld, estimated to be worth millions of dollars; the original shares of $50 selling at ,$25,000. Leaving this Eldorado, we steam •l)ast Thunder Ciipe, 1350 fe(^t high, enter the great Hay, 25 miles in length, by probably 15 in width, and crossing the Bay arrive at '.....■■ ..■'.« •; V PIIIXCE autiiuk's LANPIXa, ,. ',. a town now of considerable importance, containing nu- merous good stores, commodious hotels and extensive places of business. The harbor seems too open and liable to heavy storms, particularl, when the wind blows from the south aud south east. ^ visited this i>lace in 1808. It Avas then a barren Avaste, Avith only tAvo or three shanties. It is now iucorporat(;d, and is a pros- perous town. Prior to leaving the stejlmship Cumberland^ at the euggestion of imiuy of the cabin passengers, resolutions ^ompUiueutiug Ciiptaiu Ptirsous and utiicers fox tUeU' w I — 10 — courtesy and attention during tlie trip, were signed by all tbo passengers, and i)resented to trie Captain. The st/eamer liad scarcely touched the wharf, when Mr. M. M. Thompson, of tlie firm of Messrs. Carpenter & Co., Government contractors for conveying immigrants fiom Prince Arthur's Landing to Fort Garry, came on board, anxious to ascertain liow many of the passengers in- tended passing over the •DAWSON nOUTE. ' In the short space of one hour Mi'. Tliompson had made arrangements for removing westward all the pas- sengers and their bni^gage. Our party concluded to re- main a day and visit jny old friend, Mr. Adam Oliver, M. P- P. for ^outh Oxford, Mr. Wilson, custom liouse oflicer at Thunder Bay, volunteering to row us over some four miles to Fort Willinin. Li udiug at the Fort, we enjoyed the hospitality of tli(; Hudson's Bay agent. Mr. Mclntyi'e, and his aniial)l(i Ijidy. Mr. Oliver's mills, the nucleus of a second Chicago, avc beautifully situated on tha Kaministicpiia river, some lialf a mile from its entrance into Thunder Bay. Mr. Olivcii* is in possession of some 35,000 or '10,000 acres of timber and i arming land skirting the river, and running south almost to the United States boundary. Tlie river is sluggish, very crooked, and navigable for 12 miles. Afterwards there is a succession of falls which im])edes or entirely stoj) navigation. Mr. Oliver entertained our ])art, to an ex- cursibu some distance up the river, oast McKay's moun- tain, in his beautiful tug Joniie Oliver, retiu'uiug to lunch, iiuc? afterwards across the b.iy to the Lauding. With the assistance of Mr. Thompson, we made preparations for prosecuting our trip thci following day, and having purchased a few luxuries that could not l)e procured at the stations on the route, we retired to rest, liaving ac- complished a little over 700 miles of our trip. /m^ — 11 — I shall in my iioxt confitio my remarks to our trip from Princo Artluii's Laii(liii<^, over tlio Dawson route, and entrance into Fort (;farry. Yours, &c., Jaivies Trow. had v(^rY Dear Sru, — T eonchided my last communication at Thunder Bay, or, ])r()])er]y speakinoj, Prince Artliur's Landing, a })ijicft now noted for ity extraordinarily rapid growth, as well as ibr its bilv^er inter(.sts. The very streets show veins ot silver ; prospecting being the pre- valent topic. (Speculation often rnns wild. Mineral lo- cations are sold tor fabulous sums and resold repeatedly. One victim wants to victimize another. Either silver or gold may be puichas(Mt too dear. Considerjible interest is now felt by the inhal)itants of Prince Arthur's Laml- ing in respect to the terminus of the Su[)ejior csnd of the great Pacihc Railway. Many leading nu^n in the town assert that the importance oF the })lace will be a sufficient guarantee, and that the Government cannot overlook their claims. To me, as an impartiiil observer., totally disinterested, th(^ harbor aupears not by any means a safe one, exposed as it is t*^ the whoh? sweep of storms from the lake, unless it is protectc^l by breakwaters of considerable length, extending far out into the Iwiy. Home advocate the mouth of the Kaministiqnia river. £ find that my friend, i\lr. Adam Oliver, M. P. P., and Mr. Mclutyre, iludson Bay agent, are strongly in favor of this being the terminus. THE KAMINISTIQUIA is certainly slu^tered from storms, but before largo stea- merB could conveniently enter, very expensive dredging ■W^BHBl — 12 — ■I *i is t^qnisite, liotli of tlio river and some distance Into the bay. TIio dehris hnnifs^ht down the- river by floods for ages past blocks np tli(> enUauce, yet we ftnd splendid harbours at MilwaiikcHi and also at Chicago made out of former insiginlicant rivers. Some eminent surveyors and engineers are advocates of making Nepigon the terminus, being more in a direct line witli tliis great thoroughfare, fihould tife eastern section ever be eonstiucted, and should our extensive lakes and rivers be utilized. They claim that Nepigon is much nearer the 8ault, that this route is sheltered for 40 oi- 50 miles through the channel, tliat it is not exposed to the sweep of J. ake Superior so much as Thuiuler ]5ay, and that with some widening of the curves and improving the rapids at the Red Kock and Lake Ellen, steamers of the largest size could enter Nepigon. The Govennuent will un(pu3Stiouably in the interest of the Dominion select the most eligible loca- tion. Before leaving Prince Arthur's Landing, like all tra- vellers and Immigrants, we were interviewed l^y paid American agents, who took a deep interest in our wel- fare, urging upon our i)arty not to risk our i)recious lives on the r>Awso>T TvOUtm: that it was morally committing? suicide to attempt to go any other way than by Dulutli and across tli<^ Northern Pacific J that not less than 400 poor half-famished im- migrants \»ere then at the North West angle, and had been there for wreme, having some eighty warriors under his control, and tliree wives. The wives prepare all the fuel as well as food, pack and uni)ack tents when moving, carry the tents and blankets, dress the skins of animals j in fact, do all the work. While the bo.it was preparing for the star' , Blackstone made his appearance, accompanied by his aged father, an old man with a villainous countenance. I presented father and sor* with a few cigars, for which they ippeared thankful. Blackstone has fine chiselled features, and a wild and cunning eye. It is alleged that he was a leading spirit in the IMinnesota massacre, 12 years ago, when not less than 1000 defenceless, harmless settlers, men, women, and children, were mercilessly butchered in cold blood. Crossing tl STURGEON LAKE, some 22 mites, a beautiful star-light night, the engineer put on all steam, the fresh fuel causing a continual shower of sparks to play around, the moon shining upon the silvery lake. Passing alongside islands, and running narrows, in some places so narrow that the hindmost boat would swing against tlie land, the entire scene Avas par- ticularly weird and romantic. Late at night we arrived at Malyne Portage or rapids. The natives are numerous -19- life- re the 3d my trifle. Qf and jroiind . One idence es su- ontrol, 18 well ry the 1 fact, 'or tlie ied by nuance, wliich lisclled [id that ere, 12 irmless iilessly ■<\ igineer shower oil the imniiig st boat as par- arrived merous at this point. The station bnihlings are rongh log shan- ties. Across the river wo noticed the Hudson Bay store, where supplies are usually kept to trade with the Indians for furs. Our tent having been pitclied on the brow of a precipitous rock by the company's employees, and the night cold and chilly, wo invited a few friends to our "castle in the air " to smoke a good cigar and imbibe a small decoction of Hcnncssy's best. With considerable dignity I ordered my son to luipack and bring forth the beverage, but judge of o"r arto-uislunent, when we dis- covered the box well secured but the contents missing ! Early next morning we i)repared to shoot the MALYNE RAPIDS. These are miseraoly rocky rapids, but we made a safe descent. This section is very rough, of a primitive for- mation, grauite rocks bioken and torn, with very scanty vegetation. The river near the rapids widens and runs smoothly, after which its velocity increases, and eddies are formed. The wateis seem loath to make the plunge, but are forced forward by the current behind. The excitement is great. Passing over these seething wa- ters, the liead man is at the bow with a strong paddle, the rest at their posts. The oarsmen are at work, and as swift as an Jirrow the bojit shoots down and gets into the smooth waters below, where a small steamer, JJilly of the West, is waiting to pick up our boats. Many get washed by the 8f)ray, and in some instances the boats are upset and dashed upon the rocks, but with experienced men tliere is no danger. Passing down the rapids and crossing Lac La Croix, some thirty miles, we arrive at Pemmican Portage, where I shall for the present take leave of you and my readers. I promised in my last letter to carry the reader through to Fort Garry, but by so doing this letter would reach -20- an unrcasoTiablo loiifrtli. Next week I fll^ill rcsumo our rambliiiys IVoiu thin point to Fort Garry. ( Yours truly, James Trow. Dear Sir, — Tn my last com Riuni cation I noticed our arrival at rcinniictjui ]^)^ta;;(^ The bagga.fije and pas- sengers were immediately taken nsliore, and teams and carriages were in waiting to carry us across to the steamer at tluMvcst end, (listiint i'onraud a half miles. Considerable freight and ])a.sseng(M's' baggage were at tlio landing for shipment, and it became necessary for , till the mascnlines not alllicted with tiie gout, or who liad not cork legs, or no legs at all, to walk. The softer sex, and all Juveniles, wwo allowed to ride; myself and • the mayor (in order to k(H>p our dignity) perched our- selves Ujion the uppermost tier of l>o.ves, so that we might get a IMsgah view of the suirounding country. Our teamster having ])revi{)usly received instructions to travail at a high velocity to catch thcs boat, j)aid no atten- tion to our cries and lamentations. Wc held on like grim death ; we darcMiot for a moment h^t go to brush the muscpiitoes from our faces, an brush i torture ocks iu chagrin [ud that steamer o mouth ) retrace aiu over •k, hav- of being L(l grace- ir frugal Ti meal with conRi relislj, liaving discovered that a little iiiannal exercise was beuclicial. After tea wo took some exercise in paddling in canoes, linishing up with a good bath. Continuing our perambulations through the Indian village, we could see the natives peeping out through their tents with the eyes of terriers watching rats. Many wer(^ almost in a nude state, under no restraint and with no r<^gard for decency. After dark we received an invitation to AN INDIAN POW-WOW or dance, of which amusement the natives are pas- sionately fond. We acceptcul the invitation. The ball took place in the largest tent, which was made of poles some 520 I'eet long, set up in a cin-ular form, the small ends at the top, the large ends sutticiently spread out to give a large area at the base. Tliis frame work was covered with birch bark, strips of bhmket, skins or canvas. A lire was made iu the centre of the tent, round which the noble savages 8itioii sacrilegiously (Jidh.'d tea — l)oilcd from tlio rising of tlie 8un, taken out of tlit5 pot witli a tin dipi»er, with more leaves than li(inid, and llavored witli West India molasses. Alter breakfast wo had the satisfaction of seeing an Indian taking a steam bath, in whieh the tribe seem to have great fuith. Th(5 bath-room is maUd flat rocks of red sand stone. The following day wei took a boat down the hayj around the island, and landed to examine the falls on the west channel. Between the Province and Minnesota these falls are grand beyond description -, the rivei* in Witlo aucl dee|), Tho soctUiuij waters pUui^^o ovev tliy V rocks, probably H."), fcot perpondiciilnrly. In ono ptac6 many ^reat cluisiiirt ;iio cut or scooped out of tho solid rocks and boulders, tho sizoofa ^ood house, are scattered about i)roiniscuously. On tho point of a precipice or rocky j)roniontory, \v(5 noticed AN INDIAN BURYINO GROUND. lu a The bodies arc wrapped up in l>ark, or in the canoe of the deceased, and placed upou stakes, probably eight feet above the surface of tlie ground, snlUcRutly high to pro- tect the corpse from ravenous b(^xsts. I'he fiiends of the deceased often exanij^ne and view the bones. Tlirougli the influence of the chief engiiu^er and the kindness of Captain Cameron, wlio consented to start his boat at two in the morning, instead of ten tbe same day, we were en- abled to connect with the steamer, leaving Fort Francis at ten, the hour tiiat Ca])taiK Cameron's legulations were to leave Kettle Falls. Kainy Lake is upwards of fiO miles in length, which distance we had to make to connect with the boat. We found Captain Cameron a perfect gentle- man, who did everything in his power to make the pas- Beugers comfortal*le. Al)out 8 o'clock we sighted a raft, the men on board of which hailed us, anxious to be towed to Foster's mills at Fort Francis, but the Captain was determined to make connection, and declined giving them any iissistance. Some two or three miles above the Fort the lake ends, and tho passengers and baggage are put into boats and rowed down to within a quarter of a mileof tlie Fort. We had several horses" on board and .,he steamer drawing too jnuch water, anchored some 50 ;ods from shore. Kopes were put around the necks of ivhe hotses, when they were dragged or pushed overboard, c-ad left to swim to land. As we approached mmmmm *-26—' FORT FRANOIP, ^rident signs cf industry became more apparent. Nit- ' jerons wigwams were standing on clie plateau above the iTer. Tlio Hudson Bay store and lort were substantial tructures of wood. Many laborers are employed by the ompany, and also by Mr. Foster, wlio is construct'ng a Bteani mill at the Chaudiere. Tlie river at the falls is fully 200 yards wide, giving very extensiv^e water power. We noticed one or two tolerably good gardens and con- iderable land around the Fort under cultivation. This statirn appears to be a general rendezvous for the na- tives, tliejr usual feasts or celebrations being held in tiie locality. A dog feast had been recently held, which ac- counted for such a gathering. The OJibbeways are a scattered tribe, much disorganized %nd roam about like gipsies. They aie possessed of no forethought, make no provision for winter, aiul many die from absolute starvation. We had but little time at our disposal to yiew the Fort and surroundings. The in readiness, with seven barges or boats steam tug l)eing strung be- liind,we pres't nt.vd addresses to^the chief engineer, Mr Cowie, and to Captain Cameron, for their kindness, and started down this lovely river, which is scarcely noticed upon the map. Rain; - river is almost uniform in width, and runs with an eapy current through rich alluvial soil. The river banks are not high, but show evident traces that the bed has been mucli higher. The usual width of the river is probably half a mile, and the waters are tur- bid, owing to the loose nature of the soil, which conti- nually keeps sliding and washing iu its banks, although not S(> much on Rainy river as on the Red river, 'i'hc. banks r.re covered with grass and underwood, of such rank growth, that if luxuriant vegetation indicates rich soil, then the lands adjoining Rainy river must ha rich indeed. Some 35 miles from Fort Francis we ran the ■^*^% — 27 — MANITOU RAPIDS. Tliesc falls, with tlie scenery arouud, liave much to charm and interest. The velocity of the water after turning a bend in the liver is much increased, eddies being formed. We were carried along, pliniging forward at great speed. Our boats sliouhl Jiave been separated, but the tow was not loose, and tlie couseiiuence was that three boats were caught by tlie eddy and carried back a considerable distance. We exjxicled a similar fate, but our lieadsman cut iMie" rope and \. >• ruslix^d down the river. These rai)ids, and also the »Sault, some five ndles further down, are formed by loose boulders, which could be remov'Hl without A^ery much cost, and the river made navigable for steamers. The op[)oi'tunities in this neigh- bourhood for Avater power are almost muMiualled. The country around, as far as the eye can reach, is certainly fertile, and I am fully persuaded that the jxiriod is nob far distant vrhen we may fiiul a busy and enterprising population utilizing these waters and cultivating their 3'icli bottom lands. I noticed s])lendid corn and ])otatoe8 in tills neighbourhood. And I could not help thinking that if the thousands of i)Oor people ivho ar(3 undergoing partial starvation and luinger in many of tlie overcrowded -cities of Europe, were located there, how Jiax)py and/ comfortable they might be. - ^ RELICS OF PAST AGES. ?: V Near the Sault, we noticed two very large UiOuiMls, and some smaller ones. These moujuls are of dillerent fihapes, some round, otheis conical, and ar(> supposed to be the graves of leading wairiors of unknown g<'n(M"- ations. It is evident the work is artilicial ; it may liav(; "been constructed for burying the dead, or for jnotertion ^.gainst tlio inroads ol' invaders. The horses and as many of the passengers asi)referred walking were landed, -^ — 28 — at the wharf above INIaiiitoii falls ; those who wished to retain their seats and shoot the rapids remaining in the boats, the forces again uniting- at the Sault station. Be- fore landing, v/e wc-re overtaken by a dreadful storm. The rain pourred in torrents, tiie thunder roared con- tinuou^'ly, and the liglitning was terriQ<;. Many were drenched to the skin, and must have been very un- comfortabU\ My next letter will contain the account of our peram- bulations to Fort Garry. Yours, &c., James Tuow. Dear Sik. — Tn my last communication I left your readers at tlie Sault Kapids, Kainy Kiver, where we had just landed in the face of a terrific storm. To our as- tonishment we discovered that this was a mere landing- place at the head of present navigation, for large steamers plying from this ])<>int to the North West Angh'. Here we found a \'acant log house intc'xled for temi)orary shelter for immigrants. The sta'irov)de for the ladies and their families, the male i)opulation l»eing allowed to shift for themselves. Thos<;<>fthe passengers who had their own provisions, (anlies on tl»e various stations en route. IMr. Cani»ilf, worthy man, tried to con- sole us b^^ staling that tlie steamer must soon arriv^e and that wo might expect sumptuous fare on board, lio^y- pver, hours parsed and no signs of tlie craft. — 29 — MAKING A VIRTUE OF NECES.SITY. Tbo Mayor gave a wiguificant shake of the head, re- marking that oiiv troubles were only conuneiicing, and the lleeve resignedly observed tliat all was for the best, as the wife said Avlien lier hnsband broke his neck. We were not in tlu^ liunior (o ''put on airs," but felt as hum- ble as whipped spaniels^ and more like demolisliing a plum pudding of large dimensions than living on the savoiy odor arising from tlie dainties of olhers. We were abont retiring to our tent, in a resigned, philosophieal mood, snpperless, eonsoling onrselves that ui)on such frugal fare we wonld never be.atllicted with the gout, ai^d were ]n'e[>ared to endure with patieiute what could nol^ be avoided, when Mr. (!anniif remarked that it was very doubtful if the boat would attenspt to (H)me up the river till daylight, and tliat he would share with us his last Morsel. We acce])ted his kind hospitality, and found in * our entertainer a ])erfect gentleman. Afteran Iiour's con- versation, we retired for the night, and slej)t soundly after the iiardshi})s of the previous day. Tlie Mayor rose e.arly, witliagoodlx^dthy complexion, a clear conscience, and satisfaction beaming on ids contenance. The stea- mer Avas at the landing and we liad evauy prospect of a good breakfast. We found iVlessrs. Carpenter and McGuin- nes, two of tlie contractors, on board, making prepara- tions to forwai'd the i)assengers on tlieir way. The storm accounted for the steamer's delay. Lake of the Woods is very shallow, its waters aie easily rutlied and become exceedingly dangc^rous to navigate, more particularly near the mouth of Uainy River wliere there are beds of moving sand and siind bars, Avhich obstruct the channel^ and in the absence of any lighthouse — which is mucU Jicedcd — great caution is necessary. 30 4 DIFFICULTIES OF THE CONTRACTORS. . Tlio contractors had moved every passenger from the Nortli-West angle. An unusual rush of immigrants took them by surprise': Tlie contract liad been let so late iu the season — about tlie middle of May and having found the barges and tugs greatl^^ out of repair, the contractors had to provide so many horses, carriages, men jind provisions, and move them from one i)oint to another. This work occupied considerable time, and no doubt passengers were not made as comfort- able or i)ashed forward with sucli speed as they would otherwise liave been. Scores of Indians who were en- gaged in preparing fuel for tlie boats and stations had also to be provided witli pork and flour. The contractors jiaturally calculated tliat the Indians could purchase pro- visions at tlie Hudsied a large portion of tlieir carrying capacity, and the consequence was a general rush of imrni<^rants, at the outset 'y and to crown all, one Mr. RoIsj ,>a uiio gave no intimation ofliis colony moving, lauded at Prince Ar- thur's lauding from Manjuette, Michigan, with some 300 people. The contractors were unable to do more than they accomplished. Providing tliey get the contract for another season they could make, much Ix^t^^er prei>arations — have hay, oats, and wood, all upon the groutid before navigation opens, the liands previously engaged, and the ■whole machinery in good working order. Mr. Carpenter was then travelling eastward to facilitate matters. Mr. ]\IcGuinnes returned with tiic boat to the North-West angle. The i)assengers and baggage being all placed on board, Ave again floated down this lovely river. Occa- sionally w'e saw a soUtary settler, more frequently on the Minnesota side. We took iu a quantity of wood piled ou -31- the ook 3 ill ring the men t to ime, fort- ouUl ! en- i liiid ctort^ that >w its liaifJi occu- ,(1 tlie ,t tlio ve no Ai- e 300 than let iov tious •efore dthe enter Ml. rWest d on )cca- j)n the iedou f the river banks, purchased from tlie Hon. James McKay, who is the possessor of some miles of excellent timber bordering on the river, which is cut by Indians or half breeds for 80 cts. and sold for $2.50 per cord to the steam- boat contractors. In six hours we passed Hungry Hall, a post of the Hudson Bay Company. We noticed many of the natives assembled on the banks of the river, who saluted us in the usual way, " bon jour." Before enter- ing LAKE OP THE WOODS, we pass througli low sedge or marshes apparently filling up,whicliwill through time become extensive meadow lands: tlie encroached vegetable mould fringing and overlapping annually forms deposits, and narrows the water limits. Wo steamed straight across the lake for the angle, on our route parsing several islets, some having verdure, others bO/iren and naked, composed of primitive rocks or " old red sandstone." Occasionally you see streaks of mica slate. The different formations are thrown roughly together, some vertical, others flat. On one of tliese barren rocks we saw probably 60 or 80 tents, evidently a gathering of the natives for a dog feast or some other celebration, for there was no fuel on tlio island further than wliat they had taken with them in their small canoes. As wo approached the angle the waters became more shallow. At last we cast anchor and were taken ashore in barges hauled by a small tug. The little river leading up to the landing was literally covered witli canoes, the natives being evidently bent on sport. One fascinating, copper colored damsel seem- ed bent on trying a race with the tug, and skimmed over tlie water with gi'eat speed. The Reeve and myself were anxious to get the Maj^or introduced to this lovely crea- ture of the forest, but he was proof against tlie softer passious; and declined. The landing is on the American ,-. '^%-- ' : ^rm — 32 — fiide, though far north of tho 49l]i degree of latitude, brought about by eome uuaccount.'ible dii>loinatic bunder. We wended our way into the station liouse, i)artook of a good meal, an reparations for con- tinuing our journey by land carriage some 110 miles to FORT GARRY. After tea, our friend, Mr. McGuinnes, advised us to proceed immediately on our way and get to the lirst station, distant IG miles, that night. We found at\ho door a four horse team hitclied to a three-seated carriage with our bngg.'ige already loaded, and we proceeded over rough corduroy swamp and h)w mtusli land at a good speed, with our heads enveloi)p(Ml in mosquito nets. Abouu 1^ o'clock at niglit wo arrived at the station, in which we found thiee or four spans of horses, and the drivers asleep. In the c(uitre was a, roaring tire. Being dark, and not Iiaving a lantern, we preferred reclining in the shanty to ])itciiingour tent, and slei)t comfortably. Making an early start we arrived jit a comfortable station ibr breakfast, kept by an old acquaintance, Peter Pouli, of Downie, who made extraordinary preparations and gave us a good *' square meal." From this point to ?v WHITE MUD RIVER. the land is covered with tolerably-sized timber, very useful for railway ties, bridges or for building pur- « poses J but the land is loose and sandy, not lit for agri- cultural purposes. Yet 1 found nnmy settle is located iu Minnesota between Moorliead and Dnlnth on similar land. This station is kept by one McLeod, a lligidand Scotchman, and his Avife, who keep everything cU)an and comfortable, cultivating their own vegetables &:c. They fieemed to be enjoying the comforts of life. We over- ktook many immigrants at this i)oint, with whom we con- — 33 — versed, several of tliem being from the counties of Huron, Bruce and Oxford. From here to Breakneck station, (ho road is good and large sums must have been expended before they "wore made passaT)le. Ju many places .we no- ticed liundreds of acres of timber burned down, the black charred stumps haAung a desolate appearance. A second growth soon shoots up, and Avhat appears remarkable, should a growth of pine be destroyed by fire, the next crop may be oak, poplar or birch. The germs seem to exist in the soil, and have laid dormant iirobably for cen- turies. Perennial grasses and the first growth of timber appear to have an exclusive foothold until broken up with fire or cultivation. (I noticed when the Grand Trunk Railway was in course of construction, near extensive cuttings or excavations, that Canada thistles and otlier noxious weeds would spring un on this subsoil in locali- ties where none were ever seen for miles before.) Tow- ards night we arrived at BREAKNECK STATION, a wretched hovel, kept by a qreer specimen of the genus homo. After some effort, we managed to bolt some half- cooked i>ork find dough cakes, promiscuously thrown to- gether on the table, Avithout any order or taste. The same ingredients could have been nuide palatable and acceptable with a little attention. This appears to be a general rendez-vous for flies. We were all unmercifully tortured during the night. The rest of the road, through beautiful nati ral groves to Oak Point, is good. About noon we emerged into a broad open prairie, the first on the route. Away in the distance, hundreds of cattle and horses v^^ere seen grazing on the open plain, and large fields of grain are waving in the wind. The outskirts of this grand i^anorama are dotted over with comfortable homesteads along the river Seine, which winds its tortu- ous course through a rich fertile country and empties it» — 34 — wntors into the Kod River near "Winnipeg. Crossing the nortli-eiist anulo of the prairie, we arrive at Oak Point, or more coninionly called Prairie du Chien, the nucleus of a thrivini^ villa2:o, adjoining the river, and containing a com- modious store with a general assortment of goods belong- ing to the Hudson Bay Company. There are also a good store, kept by a Frenchman, post office, waggon shop and blaeksniiih shop, and several private residences. In the neighborhood is a saw and jrrist mill, owned by John Bap- tist, wlio is the possessor of 500 acres of arable land. This settlement^ extending for miles down the Seine, is in the DISTRICT OF PROVENCHER, Louis Bid's constituency, known as St. Anne's. The in- hubitantd are principally French half-breeds. I noticed ihat a few days after I h ft the Province, Biel, that misguided individual, had been re-elocted. It is very evident that Riol is popular with his fieople. But what possible excuse can he liave for thrusting himself upon them for re-election after being expelled from the House as a fugitive from jus- tice ? Alter enjoying a comfortable meal, and taking a stroll thi-o'ijih the village, we made preparation for extend- ing our trip. Oik Poitit is thirty miles from Fort Garry. On our route we cross one of the richest prairies in the Province. The ground is covered with lovely flowers and rich grass. Thou>ands of tons of hay may be cut yearly. Annual cutting would also improve the grass ; it would become much finer ..nd sweeter. The road in places is soft, but you cm deviate from the track on either side at plea- sure. Some 12 miles bi ing us to a French settlement on a bond of the Seine. A few Irish settlers have located them- fjelves in this neighborhood. One McQuade told us the — 35 — difficulties lie had to encounter with the half-breeds, who were very jealous of any other class of people settling anjongst them ; how they had come at ni^lit, torn dowa his house, thrown down his fences, and that whll ho was thatching his house several came with guns loaded and threatened to shoot him unless ho would leave. However, he persisted, put them at defiance, and is now in the oc- cupation of a good farm, with several sons on adjoining farms. The poor man was leaning against the fence, la- menting the sad havoc and destruction the grasshoppers had made of his crop. Being somewhat isolated from other settlers, the grasshoppers had made a clean sweep of his crops, including even his roots. A PRIMITIVE VEHICLE. Proceeding a little farther, we met an immigrant who had purchased at the office in Winnipeg a claim, and waa on his way to inspect the premises. Ho was perched on a Red River cart, constructed entirely of wood, not a par- ticle of iron whatever. They are in general use.. Traders find them more serviceable than any other vehicle. You can hear the screeching of the wheels for a mile. Thoy are scarcely ever greased. The cart was drawrj by a sinti:Ie ox harnessed with strips of ox hide. Late. at night we arrived at St. Bonif ice, the residence of Bishop Tache. adjoining which the Catholic cathedral towers above all others. The gite is beautiful. On the east side of the Red river, at the confluence with the Assiniboine, the njission holds posses- sion of several thousand acres of the best agricultural land in the Province. The bts adjoining the river sell rapidly for $1000 per acre. The Red river is a very important Stream, wide, sufficiently deep, and is navigublo for nearly — 3G — ueven hundred miles. Its v>ters are turbid, owing to iho loose nature of the soil on its banks. Some of the oldest ■cttlers assert that the river near Winnipeg is nearly double the width now that it was at tho time they first entered tha Province. Crosbing tho ferry on a peculiarly constructed flat bottom boat, fastened to a chain strung across tho river, driven by the current and moving at considerable speed, wo landed at Winnipeg, drove to tho *' Exchange hotel" and succeeded in getting comfortable quarters. Our first desire was to ascertain whether we had lost our capacity for eating and drinking. Wc had hitherto strictly ad- hered to teetotal principles — throuo;h absolute necessity, «ince our supply of Ilenesscy had become contraband. Temperance principles prevail all along the Dawson lloute. No intoxicating liquors are tolerated. Notwithstanding all the drawbacks, tho DAWbON ROUTE affords one of the most enjoyable excursions on the conti- nent of America— full of interest to the artist, botanist, mineralogist and geologist ; tho whole route is so varied, the scenery so romantic and grand beyond description, no person can form the faintest conception of its grandeur and magnificence without a personal inspection. A sportsman can find an attractive field at botli ends of the route, and on the portage prairio hens, ducks, pigeons, deer and moose are- plentiful. For tho angler 'hose silvery lakes supply abundance of fish. The flies are certainly trouble- some for a month or six weeks in the season, and if you are not furnished with a palatable bill of fare, put a curb upon your appetite and feed yourself with promises. Occasional fasting will do good, Your stomach will not be clogged fl:-, — 37 — with indigestible dainties, and after ^ou return you can better appreciate the sweets of civilization and uomestio life. I promised at tlie outset to carry the reader with me to Fort Garry, in two letters, bat it has taken four. Had I acted on my promise, I should have been under the necea- Bity of jumpin<; from pillar to post. I anx in duty bound to give an unvarnished description of our ramblings, and the reader must exorcise patience, provided ho expects to travel in oar company. In my next we will proceed through the various settled portions of the Province of Manitoba. Yours truly, James Trow. JS -.\ Dear Sir, — After partaking of the bounties of life at the '' Exchange hotel", we experienced quite a reaction ; our blood began to flow more freely, our cheeks resumed their natural color, and we rejoiced that we were born with the desire and capacity for enjoyment. No person can properly appreciate sweets unlwss they occasionally taste sour things, lletiring for the night, we had the satisfac' tion v')f divesting ourselves of garments that had not been removed for eleven nights in succession. Notwithstanding our discomforts, we were highly delighted with the trip. THE DAWSON ROUTE — SUGGESTIONS. With an outlay legitimately and judiciously expended of five or six millions of dollars, the Dawson Eoute could te made available for one of the most delightful excursions, 38 1: E! ^3 4', ml which could be accomplished in less tlian half the time that is now required. A railway could easily bo constructed from Winnipeg; to the North AV^est angle, a distance of 110 miles, or through our own territory, say 120 miles. There are no deep cuttings or engineering difficulties on the route, the entire line being either level or gently undulating, Avitli sufficient drainage to keep the roadbed dry. Thj whole tract of country from the Angle to Oak Point is thickly covered with v.iluable tiniber, which will find a ready mar- ket for fence and building purposes. The supply at pre- sent is purchased in Minnesota and rafted down LJ-ed liiver to Winnipeg ; millions of acres that now could not be given away would readily sell for $o to $5 per acre, creating a revenue more than sufficient to construct the road. Bridging on the route would be very trilling. The only rivers are White Biruh, AVhite Mud, Broken Head Creek, and the Seine — all small rivers. A large expendi- ture would be necessary to construct a bridge across the Red River ??t Winnipeg, owing to the loose nature of the soil on the river banks. To travel that portion of the road by stage now occupies three days, but it could be accom- plished by rail in as niany hours. Thousands of immi- grants would settle along the line of road. The land is not a i well adapted for agricultural purposes as the rich prairie or river lands, the soii being much lighter ; but si- milar lands are cultivated in many parts of Minnesota and in Northern Wisconsin. The landing at the Angle should be on British soil, and not as at present on the Minnesota side. Some dredging is required at the mouth of Rainy River and a light house constructed ; the channel for miles properly buoyed through the shallow waters of the Lake of the Woods, the boulders blasted and removed out of the Sault and Mauitou rupids, and a lock constructed at Fort r ti — S9 — r I ^ Francis. Then steamers conld run without interruption from the Angle to Kettle Falls, aboat 200 miles, in a day, while under present arrangements this portion of the route often takes four days, never less than tliree. Many of the other lakes could be connected together, some of the va- rious portages overcome by the construction of locks and dams so tliat bulk would not havo to be broken so fre- quently, and a railway made from Shebandowan to Prince Arthur's Landing:, 45 miles. Should these works bo com- pleted, passengers and their bnggigo could be comfortab-y carried from one end of tho Dawson route to the other in five days less than the time it now takes witli largo steam- ers from Winnipeg to iMoorhead up tho lied River. This water route would be of great service to the Dominion, even after the Pacific Railway was constructed; and water communication is deciJedl}^ cheaper than rail. The works could all be accompli'^hed in one season. The Pacific Rail- way may not be completed for many years to come. If we expect to induce immigrants to settle in the Great North West, we must have immediate facilities to convey them with speed through our own country. ' ' ' - ^ >■ THE CAPITAL OF THE PRAIRIE PROVINCE. Winnipeg is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Assiniboine with the Red River, on a plateau or level prairie. The river, during the inf mey of the settlement, overflowed its banks andfljodedthe prairie for miles round. This was owing to the nu'ltingof the ice farther south in Minnesota, and the course being north, the ice bound river throu2:h Manitoba dammed back the water. Tho conse- quence was the whole country slJo was frequently flooded, but of late years the spring thaws have been more regular * ■ — 40 — and gradual, and the bod of the river is much wider. No danger apparently exists now. Part of the town ig regu- larly laid out, and the streets lead into each other very conveniently. Other parts of the town are the reverse of this. This state of things is brought about by so many different surveys. Town lots realize fubjlous prices, and every owner of a piece of land within a radius of a mile from the centre of the town subdivides his farm or home- stead, and makes a distinct survey of" his property. We noticed numerous substantial buildings, stores, private resi- dences ; and many commodious structures of white brick, manufiictured in the neighborhood, are in course of con- struction. The Dominion Government are putting up two good brick buildings —the land office and Inland Revenue department, upon sites purchased from the Hudson Bay Co. A new post office is much needed, the present build- ing being a miserable, dilapidated shanty on a back street, — totally unfitted for the business of the place. The street'i are wide, and after a shower of rain exceedingly di»'ty. Mayor Cornish ia alive to the necessities of the case and has this season more side walks under contract than were ever before made. The town has also been properly as- sessed for the first time, and all property holders will be compelled to contribute in proportion to their means tow- ards the municipal government and public improvements. To many the visit of the tax coUcotor will be both strange and unwelcome. The rate will be very high, the town having debts to meet and works under cons^^^ruction which are all to be wiped out with this year's taxes. Much bet- ter Would it have been if the town council had issued de- bentures, payable in twenty years, for the construction of Trat«r works, sewerage, and other necessary public works. ffiho tax would thus bo light upon presewt property hoi- v f , •—41 — .■■,.., . i; ■ : ■; _ . ders, and others who may become citizens and proptrty holders hereafter would bear their share of the burden. IN iS HIGH RENTS. Kents at present are enormous. A dwolling-house con- taining five or six rooms will rent for $50 per month. A medium sized store or business place, in a central position, will realise $1,500 or $2,000 per annum. '' Davis' hotel, " a frame building, cut up in the most inconvenient manner, and whjch would not fetch for the deed in fee simple in the city of Toronto, $6,000, rents for $5,000, and the store in one end of the building for $1,000 more. Hon. Mr. Davis, the proprietor, paid for the entire premises a few years ago, $10,000. Many vacant town lots on Main- street could not be purchased for $2,000. The Hudson Bay Co. are in possession of the most eligible portion of the town, and are disposing of lots at fabulous figures. Two years ago the company held an auction sale and dis- posed of 13 acres for $7.0U0 per acre. The Company claim 500 acres at Upper Fort Gurry. The late Minister of the Interior, Hon. Mr. Aikins, informed me that -^0 acres were retained by the Government, most likely than portion of the town on which the barracks are erected. Some legerdemain, or sleight of litmd work, by the late Administration, transferred this valuable tract of land to he Company, for under .the terms of ngreemcnt, it was ^'•iderstood that in the Ked River Settlement the size of the bh'ck to be retained round Upper Fort Garry should not exceed 10 acres, and that round Lower Fort Garry was not tvi ba in excess of 300 acres. The stipulations were that the ''dominion was to pay the Company £300,000, or one and a half million dollars in money, the Ccmpany ! II iill il — 42 — to refcain the posts they actually occupied in the North AVest Territory, and to select blocks adjoinintr their sta- tions, witliin twelve niontlis after tlie surrender, not to esicced in ihe aL^rrrci'ate 50,000 acres. The Co. may at [uiy time within 50 years after the surrender claim in any township or district one-tweucietli part of the land, and were allowed to make choice in any tcwubhip for ten years after its survey, in accordance with this agreement, the Company made selections of 117 blocks varying i'l size from five acres to 3000 acres — the most valuable and eli- jijible locations for town and villages in the North West, comparatively speaking 'he cream of the whole country ; and chose 45,1 GO acres ^ v'ng 4,840 yet to be selected) having taken the precaut. at that period to leave the portions selected at the Upper and Lower Fort Garry tr a. more convenient season. A saving clause was inserted ;ii the terms of agreement that at -A ' UrPr^ AND LOWER EORTaARllY such number of acres should be reserved as miidit be aijjreed upon between tlie Company and the Governor of Canada in council. We all know what this means. The Pacific contract was let, and was to be constructed unuor similar rei'ulations. iMuch better would it liave been if the Dom- inion had agreed to pay tli< Company ten njilliuns of dol- lars for tlieir imaginary claim, than to allow that great monopolv such extraordinary privileges. Large landed monopolios jjire a curse to any country; they never contri- bute a fair proportion of taxation. To crown all, the Gov- ernment undertakes to comtensate the legitiujate owners (the Indians) for their claims to lands required for pur- poses of settlement, relieving the Company fro.u all vMi" V , ;h ~4n — ^ , y ponpibillty, nnd piaranteeinj^ to tlic Company peaceable fospcpsion. This Conipan} obtained its chnrter, from Kinp; diaries, in 1670 to a territory 2, GOO miles long and 1,400 miles broad. jMnny eminent hiwycra have givon their opinion that the liglits conferred were only for the trading purposes, nnd without any riplit to the soil. Just as soon rs the coniitry became settled the Company should sur- render their rights. In 118.-?, the North West Company, cotiiposed of Caniulians froTn Montreal, entered the North West, and disj^uted the claim of the Hudson Bnj Company. The rival companies tlien armed their agents and servants, and many buttles were fouglit, resulting ultimately in the amalgnmation of the rival companies. The ofl&cers were not } aid a fix salar}-, but participated in a share of the juofits. Tn i(?n tlie Earl of Silkirk purchased from the Hudson Bay Conipany, a large tract of land on lied River and the Assiniboine, subject to the Indian claims. The Earl induced a grent nuuiber of settlers from the country of Futherland, Scotland, to immigrate to this distant co- lony, and for many years they endured great hardships and privations. The rival compfinics regarded them as in- truders, and the poor settlers y/ere continunll^ harassed both by the servants of the other companies and by hos- tile Indians. 3Iany were killed, and their little habitations destroyed. IJltin)atly a pitched battl' was fought at a place called Seven Oaks, a large number being killed, in- cluding Governor Semple. Some time afterwards, Lord Selkirk visited the settlement and purchased from the In- dians two miles inck on either side of the lied River from its mouth, extending to Red Lake River in the United States, and along ihe A.s??iniboine from its junction to Muskrat River. The only w.iy to convey to the Indian mind a distance of two miless was by indicating the greatest 1^ — 44 — I distance at wliich a horse on the level prairie could be distinctly seen, or dayUsiht seen under his belly. Lord Selkirk died -in 1821, and in 1836 the Hudson Bay Co. repurchased from his hoirs the lands ceded to him in 1811. The Company IxMPOSED SOME VERY ARBITRARY RULES upon the settlers. No person was allowed to purchase any furs from an Indian or sell any furs to any person othev than the Company's agents, under the risk of a criminal prosecution. No person trading could send a private let- ter beyond the Province by the Company's packet, unless open for inspection by the Company's agents. If any furd were found in the possession of any fLirmer, the Company would punish him by r'^fusing to purchase any of his pro- duce. Since the surrender by the Company, the town of Winnipeg is growing as if b}'^ mairio in every direction, but where nature desired the town should stand, is at the confluence of the two great rivers, and that portion if under the iron hand of that great monopoly. No town with which I am acquainted has grown more rapidly than Winnipeg. There come annually many permanent set- tlers ; and all who are possessed of sober, industrious ha- bits, yearly increase in wealth. The town is possessed of many good business ruen, who are expending large sums to advance the interests of the place ; the extent of the popu- lation is matter of conjecture, a variety of opinions prevail- ing as to the number of its citizens. Judging from the area of the place and the amount of business places and private residences, I would consider that the town con- tained at least between five and six thousand inhabitants. / I / — 45 ^ A WINNIPEG IS THE HUB of ilio North West. An immense trade is centred in this place. The town must rapidly increase in wealth and po- pulation. The resources oftlio country are great, if pro- perly developed. The Province of Mnnitoba is the suial- lest in the Dominion, containing only 14,340 square miles, nearly 9.000,000 acres of land, while the North West con- tains 2,750,000 square miles. The bounds of the Province should be enlarged to a't least double their present dimen- sions. The expenses of carryinij on the Local Govern- ment would not be much increased, and intending settlers would have a larger field to select from. The greatest drawback to the rapid settlement of the Province, and to the prosperity of Winnipeg in particular, is that so much of the surrounding country is locked up from actual settle- ment. The land is^divided into a strip on each side of the principal rivers, four miles in depth, making very incon- venient fjrms. Many are not more than from four to six chains in width, fronting the river, and some are even less, and have more the appearance of a street than a farm. This provision was first made for the purpose of having the settlors as close toirethor as possible, for self defense asraiiist the incursions of the *' untutored savaoje." The remainder of the lands in the Province is surveyed into townships of six miles square, and subdivided into sections of one mile square, exclusive of road allowance. The roads are two chains in width. In the Western States townships are surveyed out in a similar manner, but no road allow- ance is left, and the settler, through a road superviser, makes provision for roads to suit the convenience of the peoplo. The consequence is thQ roads are zig zag, and after the country becomes settled, very inconvenient. The — 40 — next jrrcnt drnwback is a reserve containing one million and a linlf ncres selected in the centre of the Province, set fipnrt for the offsprlnjij of the half breeds round the town of Winnipep;. ThcKO lands were set apart for the minor chil- dren under a Dominion statute, to bo distributed by lot. Some 18 years must yet elapse before many of these mi- nors are of nti:c, and is it reasonable that the best portions of the Province should bo kept unsettled for such a time? Much bettor would it be for the country if the lands were set apart for all who have attained their majority, and the balance sold and the funds invested by trustees. ANOTHER RESERVATION, whicli gives creat dissatisfaction, is that one twentieth be* lon_<»s to the Hudson Bay Company. One-eighteenth, it appears, is set apart, being sections No. 8 and 26, 1280 acres, in each township ; eight or most probably 10 town- ships are reserved for the Menonnites. This is a good pro- vision, for the lands will be immediately settled and under <3ultivation. (I shall treat upon the Mennonites and their reserve in future letters.) We also find four townships r*?served for the Emerson colony, a mere sham, or specu- lation. There are also an Indian reserve and 1280 acres in each township reserved for educational purposes — a very "wise provision. The consequence of these reservations is that the poor immigrant or actual settler who desires to carve out for himself a home, is under the necessity of loc» ting far remote from market On the outskirts of the Province, and would willingly submit, providing those nu- merous reservations were settled and under cultivation. But to be vmder the necessity of travelling 20 or 30 miles through au unsettled country to market or places of bu- r -41- Biness, the roads of necessity being unimproved and very bad in spring and fall, is vnry discouraging. The roads in summer are very good. The traveller is not confined to any particular limits, but can deviate from the track round Boft or marshy places. The stage road from AVlnnipeg to Pembina, the road from Winnipeg past the Portage to the Province line, from Winnipeg to tiie Stone ibrt, also the road from Winnipeg to Oak Point, are kept up at the expense of the Province, but very little repairs are made on them, excepting a few bridges thrown across ravines or creeks. The roads are' chiefly level, there being no grades or cuttings. There are no mountains or hills, tho entire Province being one vast plain, varied only by gentle un- dulations. These elevations are rare, and form marked landmarks in the landscape. Occasionally we find what are called saddle backs, an elevation sloping oft on each side, evidently the gatherings and washing.-s of opposing cur- rents. i THE SCENERY IS BEAUTIFUL, but I thought if nature had scattered here and there pro- miscuously a few hills, the country would be much better and more sheltered from storms. Having killed off the first day and a few old hours of the second, in visiting old acquaintances, such as otir esteemed friend the Chief Justice, who is quite elated wiih the country, Dr. Schultz, M. P., who has given over his ex- tensive practice and finds the fur trade more profitable, we dined with Mayor Cornish, who is driving a lucrative prac- tice. We left in the afternoon for Prairie Portage, distant some seventy miles. My next letter will describe the ^m- 48 — I i I 'if grasshopper plague ancLour journeyings through the settled portion of the Province. •..^.' 4 Yours truly. James Trow. f n ! 'I ■■■ ] Dear Sir, — I stated in my last letter that the Hudson Bay Co. claimed within the corporation of the city of Winnipeg, 500 acres of great value. By referring to tho Toronto Globe of the IGth inst, the reader will notice that on the 15th inst., the Company sold by auction between 25 and 30 acres of this reservation, subdivided into lots 50 by 100 feet, at from $G00 to $700 per lot, and realizing a total of over $100,000, thus proving conclusively that the reser- vation at Winnipeg will net the Co. at least one and a half mi lion of dollars, equivalent to the whole purchase in cash of £300,000 sterling for their imaginary claim to the wholo North West territory. Many honest, industrious settlers claim the Yyj\\t of pve-emption to this reserve, and are pre- paring to test their right in a court of law. Much better would it have been fo'* the Government of Sir John A. Macdonald to have encouraged the actual settler, than to transfer, for no efjuivalent whatever, such a valuable tract of land to this huge monopoly. If 500 acres can be sold for one and a half to two millions of dollars, can we estimate the enormous wealth they possess in the territory ? 50,000 acres — the most eligible locations — and also one-twentieth of the territory will be drained of its wealth for centuries to come, and the stockholders of this great monopoly and their offspring will live in luxury and splendor in the great cities of Britain on the hard earnings of the poor settlers pf tfee North West, — 49 — To resume our meandorings. "We left Winnipeg for Portage la Prairie, distant 70 miles west, by the course of the i\ssiniboine, along the travelled traet leading to the Saskatchewan valley, crossing a flat prairie of sandy loam, many portions under crop. The road and fences were k %. LITERALLY COVERED WITH GRASSHOPPERS. (ift. Millions were seen winging their way to the eastward. In looking towards the sun the sight resembled a heavy snow storm of large flakes, passing through the air with great rapidity. They were upon the ground piled one upon another so that we crushed thousands with every revolution of the carriage wheels. For the novelty of the thing, we would occasionnally alight and walk ahead of the horses, when millions would rise ouo of our path. On close exami- nation thousands appeared stuck to the earth in a perpen- dicular position, their extremities indented in the earth nearly half the length of the body, in the act of depositing their eggs. We carefully examined these deposits, and found thousands of eggs deposited in a square foot, where the soil happened to be soft loam and free from grass. By scraping off the soil, an inch in depth, we could see the. ground perforated Avith holes as if made with the end of a pointed stick. Many of these holes were empty, some were full, and others partially so. The eggs were closely packed together, placed in a perpendicular position, uniform in size, about the eighth uf an inch in length and fully the tliickness of a knitting needle. I examined many, and found IVom 50 to 70 eggs in a nest, carefully enveloped in a transparent covering. It is remarkable that these eggs are not destroyed in a country where the frost pene* I n — 50^ .V \ trates to sucli a depth, and where it is of such long oonti- nuance. GRASSHOPPERS — THEORIES CONCERNINa THEM. Some allege that the egj^s liave been deposited so early in tlic season tluit the excessive heat of summer incibates them in the full ; others profess to have discovered a para- site under the wing of (he female, and assert that when the egg^ are deposited, the parasite drops in the nest and des- troys the germs. I sincerely hope the latter of these the- ories will prove to be correct, so that the poor settlers may be relieved from this plague. The crops were unusually good this season. The farming community were greatly elated at their favorable prospect; but in a fuw days their hopes were blighted, their calculations falsified, and many who were in comfortable circumstances gut discouraged and sold out their little homesteads to speculators and new comers, at a great sacrifice. I can scarcely describe the depressing effects produced by the ravages of the grass- hoppers. Scores of intending settlers who had made their calculations to remain in the Province, emulating Job's comforters, took special interest in showing to immigrants the dark side of the picture, and impressing on them -that next season the grasshoppers would sweep all before them, that total starvation would inevitably prevail, that provi- sions would be enormously high the ensuing winter, owing to the excessive freight for goods by land from Moorehead, and that hundreds would depend on charity for sustenance during the winter ! Such lachrymose persons are to bo found in all communities — people who take a special interest in exaggerating and fomenting troubles. Instead of stating facts, that only one- third of the wheat crop had been des- ■^61 — troyed ; that there was sufficient raised in the Province un- injured to maintain a much larger population ; that peas were excellent, and that root crops were abundant; that land was clicap and fertile ; that the Dominion Government were about to carry on extensive public works, and that all who felt disposed to work could readily get employment ; the "comforters" I have mentioned took special delight ia picturing the dark side of the question. Grasshoppers are to be found occasionally in all countries. In Ontario our crops are frequently partially destroyed by weevil, miage, and even grasshoppers, particularly where the soil is light and warm. During the eariy settlement of the Western States everything they raised was swept away periodically for years. I* am persuaded that when those extensive fer- tile prairies are broken up, tlie soil turned over, pulverized and exposed to the winter frosts jp^d a larger surface put under cultivation, the damage done will scarcely be noticed. I found in my travels through the Province, that where the grasshoppers found an isolated settler the} took all he had, but in older and more extensive settlements the wheat crop was but little injured, and should the gras.shoppers destroy one-half the wheat crop, the remaining half will yield nearly as much per acre as the whole crop in any of the other Provinces. Barley and- oats have not been raised very extonfcively in Manitoba, and when we hear that all has been destroyed, it don't amount to much, for two-thirds of the farmers had not a bushel of either barley or oats sown. ADVENT OF THE PLAGUE. Grasshoppers first made their appearance in Manitoba in 1818, doing some damage ; the following year they des- troyed the entire crop. The Province was then relieved m m jiii i il' from their ravages till tlie year 1857, a period of 38 years. In 1858 a young broo'l hatched from the deposits of the previous year, Fwept over the Province in clouds but did no perceptible damnge. In 1804 and in 1868 their ravages were more seriously felt. Their stay may now be ter- minated till next season and probably they Avill not do any damnge for another quarter of a century. A1*J kinds of ex- periments have been tried in other countries to do away the grasshopper plngue. - ; Proceeding on our wny wo pass, near silver Heights, an extensive brewery with all the contrivances for doing a large business, but owing either to the scarcity of barley, the want of taste on the part of the Imlf-breeds for beer, preferring fire water, jr an Order in Council»of the Domi- nion Government, prohibiting the manufacturing of beer outside th'^ city of Winnipeg, the proprietors stopped ma- nufacturing the beverage. I understand the brewery was recently sold for less than one half of the original cost. At SILVER II EIGHTS we pass the splendid residence of the Hon. Janies McKay, a wealthy half-breed. His dwelling and outhouses are de- corated with ciiblems of the chase, considerable taste be- ing displayed about the premises. A few weeks afterwards I paid a second visit to Mr. McKay's and found liis gar- dens totally destroyed by the grasshoppers. Numbers of Indians and half-breeds were lounging about tlio premises making preparation? ^or a trip to the llocky Mountains or Saskatchewan. Carts drawn by oxen and Indian ponies were hitched np ready for the start, the average U7ad weighing from 800 to 1,000 \h>:. They travel from 25 to . i-. wmm 30 miles a day. TTorses are used for lighter loads, sucli as tents and personal baggnp'e. I noticed several carts loaded with dried biilTJilo, and pemmican. The latter is usually put up in bn_G:s, weighiDg- 100 Ib.-^.,* two feet long, one and a half feet wide and six inches thick. Like the Milesian's stew, it is " good, cooked and uncooked, boiled or stewed," and is almost exclusively used by Indians, half- breeds or traders. The Indian mode of preparation is to cut strips of buffalo meat and dry thoroughly in the sun, then pound with a club as fine as possible, put layer after layer in small bags, made of buffMJo skins, and on every layer pour hot fit of the buffalo, v/liich saturates the whole mass. When properly made, it will keep for 40 or 50 years. A pound of this preparation with bread will be sufficient for a large family for r meal. The Hon. Jas. McKay is reputed to be very wealtliy, and is a great tra- der. Himself and his amiable partner appear to thrive, for their united weight exceeds 500 Us. A short distance further we pass the late residence of Mr. Donald A. Smith, M. P., chief manager of the Hudson Bay interest in the North "West. For a few miles farther the country is set- tled by half breeds, who make very indifferent farmers and who devote most of their time to trading for Mr. McKay, Dr. Schultz, or the Hudson Bay Conipany. AVe soon enter and cross A BEAUTIFUL llOLLINO PRAIRIE for many miles round, almost as far as the eye '^xte^ds, to< tally bare of trees, and the horizon unbroken excepting in the direction of the Asriiniboinc. Proceeding onwards we crQsa Sturgeon Creek, a beautiful settlement, n^any of the — 54 — ' ^ • » farms well fenced and under tolerable cultivation. We were introduced to one John Grant, a half-breed, who owns probably 2,000 acres of land in the Province, keeps numer- ous herd« of oxe.i and ponies, and liires them out for the season. Mr. Gr^jnt informed me that he had upwards of 1 00 horses, whicli lie invariably turned out in winter to shift for theuisclves, and that lie generally found them in sprhiGi; in excellent condition. Mr. Grant also owns a large Rtock-fci/ni in the Boyne settlement, distant some 40 mile?^ from his residence on Sturjrcon Creek. A short drive brought us to Ileadingly, where the notorious Lord Gordon committed Buicidc. Gordon's melancholy death created great excitement in Winnipeg. The New York officials who attempted to kidn;ip him had their business well plan- ned, but they were sadly foiled. About sunset we arrived at the station kept by Mr. House, an American, and put "up £or the night. Shortly afterwards Lieutenant-Governor Morris and Mrs. Morris, with some of the juvenile mem- bers of the family, drove up and stayed all night. We found Governor Morris and his amiable lady very sociable and agreeable. AVe travelled in their company the follow- ing day to Portage la Prairie and through the settlements, whither the Governor was en route in order to ascertaiu from personal obiL'crvation the . b^ d it h K st a n< si DAMAGES DONE BY THE <3RASSH0PPEBS. Governor Morris is a thin spare man of medium height, having a striking resemblance to Sir John Macdonald, but much younger. After the rest liad retired, I was enter- tained by the landlord with a rehearsal of his imprisonment — 55— .V. ...... -^'^.v by Kiel, how he frequently disobej^ed the pseudo " Presi- dent's" orders, put him at defiance, and threatened ven- geance if he dared to imprison an American citizen ; how he had marched with the Portage men past the Fort to Kildonan, expecting to unite their force?, &c., &c. He ijtatcd that 100 resolute men could have taken both Kiel and his forces without much blood-sl ed. Travelling in company wnth the Governor and family next morning, we followed the beaten track round the east side of the Bay of St. Paul's. The Governor considered it iLuch safer thjin risking a nearer drive across the centre of the Bay, which is evidently the bottom- of a large lake, either raised by vegetable growth or some other cause. Tliousands of tons cf hay are annually cut in this marsh. 31 r. House the previous year had let a contract for cutting and stacking 100 tons for $1.50 per ton. A7e dined at Poplar Point and partook suniptuoiisly of prairie chickens, very acceptable fare after our niorning's exercise over the broad prairies. The soil in this locality is rich and very productive. I took a stroll with the landlord over his fields, examined his crops, to which the grasshoppers had certainly done great injuiy, but he felt thankful, sa; ing " half a crop is much better here than what we cnnsidered a good crop in Lanaik, Ontario." We noticed nny beautiful poplar groves, and on the opposite side of lue Assiniboine, trees of considerab^'j size were seen extending fo^ miles up the river. Near to Poplar point we passed If ''I .*j^.. AN INDIAN ENCAMPMENT containing some thirty or forty families of the Sioux tribe. This tribe invariably camps on the open prairie, far remov ed from the bush. It is stated that they are in dreuJ jf 66 — t.;. tho Chippewag, who %lit better under cover, and that the Sioux are. a match for theui ou the open plain. Many hun- dreds of this tribe crossed the bolder from Minnesota after the massacre in 1862. '"he men are straight and tall, and ^ apparently very lazy. Several have no covering but a blanket and breech cloth, their hair jet black, hanging down their backs. Many have their faces painted with a variety of colors; some red, with blue stripes j others blue and yellow stripes ; others have long feathers stuck in their hair, while some have to be content with only one feather. (It is alleged that each feather denotes the number of scalps in their possession.) When driven across the border a hirge number of them had neither guns nor ammunition ; and their very existence depending upon the chase, they were reduced to actual starvation. Their chiefs and lead- ers made repeated applications to tho Government for pro- visions or lire arms, so that they might support themselves. The Goveiument could not agree to furnish them with arms and ammunition so long as they were at war with the United States ; and the Province not having any surplus provi- sions, liundreus of them died during the winter. The main cause of the outbreak was M^ant of fiith kept with the. In- dians by American agents. A certain pension or allowance was granted them per anuum. They had years before tho outbreak ceded over to tho United States Government, hirge tracts of lands. Tho poor Indians and their families were called together at certain periods to receive their saiall pittance; the agents would keep them waiting for weeks and in some cases months, all the jrovisions they brought with them being in the interval exhausted ; and being far remote fiom their hunting grounds they were often in a famishing condition. They frequently made an appeal for money duo them, or food ; and in the absence of either, fur n a for her, scores died from actual starvation. TJiis state of things ^ was repeated again and again, cuhninating in A GENERAL MASSACRE, The Indians were determined to slaughter every man, wo- man or child occupying the lands they had ceded. The consequence was, through the conduct of a few overbearing, grasping officials, 1,G00 defenceless settlers were butchered in cold blood. The Sioux Indians appear more indolent than the Chippewas; they lounge about their camps de- pending almost entirely upon what the squaws can beg from the settlers, or upon the sale of berries or baskets, &c. The more they g-et for their labor the less they W'll do ; and the T more an article brings them the less they will fetch to mar- ket. Their wants arc few and easily satisfied. I noticed their mode of roasHns; fish with some interest. The fi,>h is fixed on the end of a stick, two feet long, one end in the ground at the side of the fire, the other end leaning over the fire ; the roasting is generally well done, but the pro- cess is slow. There is no excuse, particularly in the sum- mer season, for Indians to be begging. On Long Lake hundreds of wild ducks were seen, aiid prairie chickens are so plentiful that they could frequently be struck with u club. Manitoba Lake, only distant 10 miles, is stocked with excellent fish. Wiile roaming over the prairies a few hundred miles west are large herds of bufi'alocs which are easily captured. The climate is such that buffalo meat can easily bo dried and knpt for years. The buffaloes have been driven far west and are yearly recklessly slaughtered by tens of thousands, merely for tlieir hides and tongues, the carcase wasted, while hundreds of Indians are sufiering partial starvation every winter, many of them dying from ii III — 58 — absolute want, f^ome measures of f.rotection should at once bo enacted, or the alternative will be the buffalo will Boon become extinct. Proceeding 11 or 12 miles across an undulating prairie, covered with rich luxuriant grass and A TROFUSION OF LOVELY FLOWERS ) u 01 Ti ii fil at ci tal C( on which are no sandy or gravel ridges, no swamps or marshes, and every foot capable of producing abundant crops, we arrived at High Bluffs, and were kindly enter- tained by Mrs. Allcock and family, formerly of Mitchell, and Mr. Wm. Moss, late of Mornington. These parties left Ontario with considerable means, which they invested '■ largely in real estate, and they are now the owners of ex- tensive farms, upwards of 1,000 acres each, with comfor- table buildings and apparently surrounded with all the ele- ments of comfort and civilization, such as schools, churches, postal privileges, &c. Their crops were excellent, but par- tially destroyed by the grasshopptTf:"!. Quite a sottlenjcnt of Canadians who left the county of i'erth are located in this neiirhborhood — Mr. Whimster, of Blanchard, Mr. I 7 7 Small, of Logan, and Mr. Jerrald, teacher. All are doing remarkably well and are in comfortable circumstatH^es. Early in the mornin<»; we continued our journey westward. For the first two or three miles we travel through a good settlement. On the rest of the road to the Portage we found here and there a settler commeneing life on the open prairie. Far away in the distance, along the outskirts of the wood, the landscape is studded with comfortable home- steads. Between the Erjglish settlement and the Portaire we cross a rolling prairie, rising gradually till we arrive at the village, near which, on the open plain, a tribe of Saul- l orl hti fr( ^m ^0 vi w;i M of be rei va su tl ar .w f u se — 59 ('■ teaux or Bungees were encamped, probably numbering 50 or 60 families. Their tents had a nineh cleaner and moro respectable appearance than those of the Sioux, yet on close inspection we found the inmates slovenly and extremely filthy in their habits. C'mld not those able-bodied natives and their families be tannht habits of industry and become cultivators of the soil ? Five acres under crop — wheat, po- tatoes and vof'etables — would contribute more towards their comfort than all they earn by the chase. . PORTAGE LA PRAIRIE, or prairie portap;e, was named by Indians or traders, who had of necessity to carry their canoes across this prairie from the Assiniboine to Lake Manitoba, distant some 12 '^milos. The village is beaiiti fully situated on the table land, somewhat elevated above the surrounding prairies. The village proper contains a tavern^ two stores, blacksmith and waggon shops. In this neighborhood we met one Mr. McLean, a Highlander, an old settler, who is the f>ossessor of a splendid farm, and has in coarse of construction the best farm house in the settlement. iMcLean had been reading the local press of Manitoba about the dreadful ra- vages of the grasshoppers, and said it was a sliamo to make such a howl, that thero was more grain left in the Province than all the inhabitants could consumo for two years. In my next we will pay a visit to Mr. Kenneth McKenzie and Mr. Hugh Grant, two of the largest and most success- .^ fal agriculturists in Manitoba, and will also allude to other settlements withiu the Province. Yours truly^ James Trow. ' -^60 — Dear Sir, — In my last communication we parted with the reader at Portapje la Prairie, and were about proceeding to Hat Creek. Bat prior to leaving, we must, as a matter oK interest, interview Mr. John McLean, the oldest pioneer in the locality. Mr. McLean euiigrated from the neigh- borhood oF Giielph, Province of Ontario, some years ago, and is quite a character. He wished to ascertain, as a pre- liminary, if we were sincere in our intentions of becoming permanent settlers. If so, he recomniended us to purchase a moderately sized farm not to exceed a quarter of a section (IGOacies), saying that he was content with that quantity, and probably realized as much profit from his estate as many who roamed over many sections. His })olicy was dis- tribution, and not centralization. The country, ho thought, should be subdivided into innumerable homesteads, and dis- ^ tributed to ioiui Jide settlers. Very many, he said, came to Manitoba with extravagant notions and great expecta- tions, who were accustomed to a life of idleness, luxury and ease. The charms of novelty, change ol' situation and the expectations of amassing a fortune (without labor), had in- duced them to imuiigrate. He could ace daily many of these " feather-bed fanners " with dog and guu roaming over the prairies, and after a freshet, he had actually seen several of such " farmer:*, " fishing ov^r the ravines, or along the borders of the lake fronting his premises, on horseback. " What we really retiuire, " suid Mr. McLean, with empha- sis, " is men able and willing to till the soil ; the natives ite." Mr. McLean condemned the •eqi POLICY OP TUB LATii AD3IINISTRATI0N, in regard to their mode of building the Pacific Railway; t)ut strongly advocated tlio construction of a canal from tho — 61 \ pre- seeu along Assiniboii:e through his farm to connect with Lake Mani- toba. Before leaving tho village we had an introduction to Mr. «Joseph Ryan, M. P., now declared member for Mar- quette. Mr. Kyan was defeated by the late Mr. Cunning- ham, by 42 votes. A protest was entered and a scrutiny resulted in favor of Mr. liyan. Evidently the Catholics of Manitoba are not the bigots some represent them to be; for we find in this division nearly all the Catholic vote polled for Cunningham, a Protestant, and nearly all the Protes- tants voting for llyan, a Catholic. Mr. Hyan is a solicitor, resides at the Portage, and is an active, energetic man, en- joying a lucrative practice. Crossing a lovely prairie of unbounded fertility we noticed many patches cultivated, the soil of which is a dark, rich loam ; tho whole prairie extending as far ys the eye coald reach, free from any accumulation of green scum, ponds or stagnant water, which are so frequently met with in Min- nesota and many of the Western States. The effluvia arising from these low places poisons the atmosphere, and fevers and death frequently result. The prairies of Mani- toba are undulating. Occasionally these natural undula- tions swell into eminences of moderate height, creating na- tural drainage. This combined with the porous and friable nature of the soil, keeps the surface free from any accumu- lations of water. For -miles round, nothing can be seen to impede the progress of the plough, no rocks, stones or stumps, but the broad prairie covered with a PROFUSION OP SWEET SCENTED FLOWERS, Iway; I in tho comprising numerous varieties of the rose, sun flower, wild pea and numberless others of every imaginable tint and color. This country is beautifully adapted for the raising li — 62 — f)f stock with very liitle expense or trouble. The great in- flux of immigration will create a ready and profitable market for years to come, Kat creek is an insignificant stream taking its rise some 10 or 12 miles southwest Irom McKen- zie's farm, and running north, empties into Lake Manitoba near Totogaii, a town in prospective — better known upon paper than in the locality where it is supposed to exist. A temporary dam is thrown across this dirty creek at the rear of McKenzie's dwelling to gather water lor family use. A geological party in the employ of the Dominion Government are at work near the yard boring lor water, and had reached a depth of 150 feet without success. The engineer, a Mr. McI>onald, showed our party the diamond drill which cost $5,000. It cuts a clean hole lA inches in diameter out of the rock and brings up the innercore entire. I met with another party under Mr. Ward, bound for Fort Ellice, for the purj ose of testing the land in that locality. Mr. Ward had procured the services of the half-breed. Grant, at an expense of $73G, to take the machinery back. These test wells will be of great service to the settlers if successful. We were very much disappointed to find that Mr. Mc- Kenzie had left home the previous day on a fishing excur- nion to Lake Manitoba. We fully expected to have gleanad valuable information from one so thoroughly posted in agri- culture. However, his amiable partner kindly entertained our party, and gave us a general insight into the working of the farm. We carefully examined the crops ; the oats and barley were almost totally destroyed by grasshoppers, the wheat crop, which was very large and good, was but partially injured. I noticed one field containing about 50 acres, north of the Saskatchewan road, the lower leaves of which had been stripped from the stalk, the straw being ptiff and all erect j the heads erect and well filled j the pro- — 63 — tabic yield would bo from 27 to 30 bushels per acre, Tho potato and turnip crops wero largo and had a healthy ap- pearance. Mr. McKenzie claims about 2000 acres on the home farm, 200 of -which are improved and under crop. Ho also owns some 400 acres of bush land, and 320 acres of meadow. CROSSINa RAT CREEK, we noticed encamped on the prairie, a large body of half- breeds, with probably 200 ox carts, preparing; for a start to the Rocky Mountains, freighted with provisions and goods for the Indian trajio. Mounting an enormous straw stack of the previous year's crop (as fresh as the day it was threshed, the purcness of tho atmosphere preventing decora- position) we took special interest in witnessing the caval- cade moving westward. Scanning the horizon we observed a large herd of cattle in the distance, and concluded they were McKcnzie's stock. Those of our company who felt disposed, crossed tho prairie and examined this valuable herd. I counted 115 head of cattle, many thorough -bred, all in excellent condition, roaming at large over the broad prairie. The winters c innot be very severe, for I noticed that the only protection McKenzie has for his stock are mi- serable open sheds made of poles and covered with straw. We met Mr. Hugh Grant, formerly a resident ofBrucefiold county of Huron, who is in occiupation of upwards of 1000 acres adjoining that of iMcKcnzio, having 80 or 100 acres under cultivation. Mr, Grant states that the reported fa- bulous yield of grain per acre is not correct, that he is in a- position to know, being in possession of a threshing machine and travels round in winter threshing. He had threshed last winter from 14,000 to 20,000 bushels of wheat, and he would place the average crop of wheat at 30 bushels, oats 50, barley 40. Root crops were always good, and surpas- Bed in size and quality anything he ever saw. Mr. Grant Baid he had resided three successive winters in the Province, and experienced no discomfort from the cold, that the usual depth of snow was a foot, quite light and scarcely ever drifted; the winter sets in generally about the 9th or 10th of November; that lie was ploughing last fall the 25th of October. Do also stated that he had cattle out all winter, that horses roam about uncared for the winter through, and were found in splendid condition in spring. Great credit is due to Messrs. McKenzie and Grant for INTRODUCING IMrROVED BREEDS of stock into the country and contributing so largely tow- ards the annual exhibitions held at the portage. My firm impression is that few countrios are more desirable or invi- ting to the agriculturist, the mechanic or laboring man, than the Province of Manitoba. The only drawback seenis to be the want of running streams, but I noticed many ex- cellent wells of pure water only a few feet in depth. I have observed that in all new settled countries the settlers W'ill carry water, let it be ever so bad, for some time for family use before they put on resolution enough to dig a good well at their door. Returning from Rat River I used what I considered plausible arguments to induce our company to diverge from the Saskatchewan track homeward and come round by To- togan, south of Lake Manitoba through Woodland and Vic- toria settlements to Winnipeg, but my arguments were un- availing, the Mayor concluding that ho for one had seen enough to satisfy any unprejudiced mind that the country mKapw«w»«ci™»w — 65- oats dered from |y To- Vic- re un- seen >antry T7fis only calculated for the Indian and buffalo or fur pro- ducing animals, and not f>r civilized society, thnt ho would not swap the town of Mitchell for the North NYost Terri- tory. I made allowance for the Mayor's rash estimate of the country, owin^ to his beini* a bachelor, and having amassed a fort-une in Mitchell, where ho will leave a perma- nent monument to his enterprise and public spirit. Return- infjj towards Ili^h Bluff, wo overtook an Indian on foot who had fanciful notions of his a^^illty and swiftness. Making an attempt to pass us, Mr. AIcock succeeded in ut-ging our teamster to the chaso ; tlio Indian gave a yell and bounded forward with extraordinary speed. I stretched myself back in the seat and left the balaneo to Providence and our pos- tilion. However wo succeeded in winning the race, and this was the first opportunity during four days that we had of knowing that our horses could travel. Proceeding to Long Luke we fell in with Mr. Ilalston and colony, consist- ing of some four or five families. A largo number had left him at Winnipeg and returned. INIr. Ilalston informed mo that he had obtained from the Government four townships outside the Province boundary, and also extensive timber linuts, and that he intended to lay out a village and erect naills immediately. My opinion is that settlers will roquire greater inducements to settle than Mr. Ilalston is prepared to offer, and that the proposed colony is more a matter of the imagination than a reality. AVe will save the reader the annoyance of travelling back to Winnipeg in our com- pany. Suffice it to say that we reached the capital in safe- ty, after a very pleasant drive. Returned to town, wo noticed the place illuminated in honor of the arrival of Aj .. .' FIVE HUNDRED MENNONITES, who had Bpread broadcast among the leading merchants , ! J li» - 66 - • and mechanicd fiomo $15,000 in gold for stock, provisions, and agricultural implements. One successful merchant sold 50 or GO wnggons at $100 each, which he had pur- chased at from $72 to $75, delivered, quite unsuitable in my opinion for the wants of emigrants. Much hotter would it have been for them had they bought as many lied River carts for $15 a piece. Many purchased yokes of oxen, and others spans of horses, for which they paid in many ins- tances extravagant prijcs. Ini|:orted horses from Canada " or any of the States Jo not thrive for the first season; they require a good deal of care and attention in winter and very many die owing to the change of climate, &c. Those Men- nonites liuve a reservation of eight townships, partly on Rat River, between Oak Point and Emerson Colon v, near the south cafct corner of the Province. On four of the town- ships not a purtiC'Cof wod is to be found ; on the rest are found along the creeks a.id rivers, building timber and po- plar groves. Tuose who inhabit the timber limits are to furnish those who have not, and those in occupation of Bieadow lands are t.o allow those who have no hay for their Block foi a time to have all things in common. Those m possession of means will imroediately erect baildingg on thtir homesteads, and those who arc not so fortunate will, remain over winter in buildinf]rs erected bv Mr. Jacob Y. Shantz, of Waterloo, who put up tin.? season four buildings 100 foct by 16 each, bubdivided into five apartments each, for which he received two or three sections of land. The j)uiHings are to remain for five yeavs, afterwards to become |vb^ property of Mr. Shantz. Some allege that the Men- nonites are descendants of the Waldenses. Be this as it ?nay, we know that; they derive their name from Menno Simon, a native of Witmassam, born in Friesland, A. D. 1495. From the year 1537, for nearly three centuries, tha -*'-• ti^m 1 — 6T — MENNfONITES WER!? A PERSECtTTfiD PEOPLE, and fled from one country to another. 3Iany went to Rus- sia, Prussia, and other parts of Europe, many settled with William Penn in Pennsylvania. We have in the county of Waterloo, Ontario, numerous families, dcscondents of those who emigrated to Canada, from Pennsylvania 60 years ago. I have had dealings with this class of people amounting to many thousands of dollars, and never found but one that I would not take his word for any reasonable amount as read- ily as his note. Those who have now arrived from Russia I hope are only the nucleus of an extensive settlement, for they are certainly peaceable, industrious, honest settlers, who will in a few years, through economy and industry, make these luxuriant prairies blossom as the rose. These Menno.ilres, notwithstanding the trials, fatigues and bard ships they hid undergone in travelling from Russia, were ruddy with health, cheerful and contented. Mr. Shantz is deserving of great praise for his philanthropic eflforts on be- half of these settlers. Mr. Hespeler, immigration agent at Winvjipeg, who first interviewed those people in Russia, is certainly the ri<;ht man in the right place. I have known him to leave Winnipeg with his conveyance, drive to the Mennonite settlement, some 50 or 60 miles, camp out, and remain for days and nights locating them and endeavoring to make them comFortable. Taking a tour through the im- migrant sheds, some 32 apartments, with the agent, Mr. Hespeler, we noticed quite a contrast — many English and Irish families who had ocoupied the sheds for weeks while their husbands were working out, to save payment of rent, were continually grumbling, and had all imaginary com- plaints to make, while the poor Mennonites were necessita- ted to camp out, and were cheerful^ happy and conttated. ■%:; — 68 — THE GERMAN MENNONITES r I ill \m left Prussia and settled in Russia on account of religious opinions held by them against military service. The Czar of Russia promised them that they should be exempt and also be allowed to educate their children in their own way, but the present Czar refuses them ihose privilegas. Mr. Ilespeler was commissioned by the Dominion Government in 1872 to visit Berdiansk, So ith Russia, for the purpose of inducing the Mennonites to emigrate to Manitoba. De- legates fiom their body were sent out and visiteiTManitoba in 1873, accompanied by J. Y. Shantz, and a contract was entered into with our Government that they should receive free grants of land, religious schools of their own, be exempt from military service, have the privilege of affit'iuing instead of making oaths in courts of law, and certain other privileges in regard to passage out. T.iese settlers are peculiarly adopted for settling in Manitoba; thoy are accustomed to much inferior soil, cold winters, and they will find much more timber in Manitoba than in settlements bordering on the sea of Azov, Russia. Sunday morning Mr. McVicar drove myself and the M yor to hear the Rev. Mr. Black, at Klldonan. Before service c^m nenced we took a stroll through the graveyard and read the epitaphs of the dead, many of great age. I see no better evidence of a healthy and thriving population than i.i the absence of graves in the churchyard. T noticed one remarkable instance of the anxiety of our Highland friends to pay respect to the de id (or may be living). One tombstone was erected to the memory of one Sutherland ■who had left his home on a certain day and 'lad never re- turned, his relatives taking it for granted that he was dead* 4dr - -^W«t«W»ftWWtiff'fl '/ -6d- We will in our next carry the reader with us — to the Penitentiary ! Yours truly, JaiMes Trow. Dear Sir, — Proceeding through Winnipeg, en route for Stony Mountain, the site of the penitentiary now in course of construction, our. cariosity was excited by noticing an unusual ejathering of Indians lounging in front of the Crown Lands office. Generally speaking the nativCvS locate them- selves along rivers and streams remote fiO!U settlements, where game, fish, and fuel are plentiful. Upon enquiry we ascertained that the Minister of the Interior, Hon. Mr. Laird, had arrived in the Province and was the guest of Governor Morris, and that this motley crowd was a depu- tation of Sioux, waiting for an interview. Most probably they had put on their Sunday suits for the occasion, as b3- veral had no covering except an old dirty blanket short leg- ging-s, and breech cloth. Some were fantastically decorated with gewgaws. One old chitf feovered his nakedness with the remnant of an jld scarlet cloak, with buttons on of home nianufaeture, about the size and shape of a horso shoe. His matted, black unkempt hair, was docorated with huge feathers. The old fellow strutted round quite majes- tically. Soon Mr. Laird, in company with Governor Mor- ris and several other gentlemen, made his appearance. The Minister was easily recognized by the natives, fcr like Saul among the Prophets, he was head and shoulders above uU the rest. The Inditin custom is to look with adoration upoE the tallest man of th<} tribe, and without any iatroductioQ| -70- the natives made for the Minister, who very good humoredlj gave each a hearty shake of the hand and proceeded to bu- siness. He had for interpreter, a good-looking lady, rather embovpohit, a lialf-breed, who spoke English very fluently. For nearly two weeks«, Mr. Laird listened to all kinds of coniplaintS; some iniiiginary, no doubt, many who had for- feited their rights to their homesteads by being absent over six months, and the lands resold, and several complaints from parties who had settled upon the Government reser- vati;)n at Stony Mountain. However, the jMiiinister exercised great patience and became exceedingly popular during his short st»y. li! MAKING A TREATY. The great object of Mr. Laird's mission to the Province, was to effect a treaty with the Crees, Salteaux, and other tribes of Indians, rf the river, cut through deep alluvial r h soil, the banks fringed with reeds and rank undorgrowtli, frotn whieh at almost every bend a covey of d' ks or other water fowl would skim before the boat, l^ate in the c ^ we came # KS^^Sk. — 86 — ill sight of the residence of the Hon. Joseph Royal, late Provincial Secretary. Our boat is hailed and Mr. Royal and daughters come on board, bound for Montreal. Steam- ing up the Red River is the most monotonous travelling imaginable. The river banks are high at low water, hemmed in by tall poplars, and the scenery much the same from day to day You are sailing in a large deep ditch and can chew the cud of your reflections at your leisure. There is nothing to annoy you in the cabin excepting innumerable mosquitoes and black flics, and no annoyance on deck un- less a few sparks from the smoke pipe occasionally burning a hole in your coat. About 2 o'clock on the second morn- ing of our voyage we arrive at Pembina, the dividing lino between the Province of Manitoba and the United States. The Fort is on the Dakota side of the river. The Hudson Bay Company have a truding establishment on the other side. You are unceremoniously aw^ikened from your slum- bers, and requested to hand over your keys to the custom house officer, who unceremoniously overhauls your baggage. No contraband goods were found with any of the passen- gers. The odor arising from a few pounds of pemmican in my trunk for distribution among my friends, probably pre- vented my clothing being disarranged. We are now in the Great American Republic. I may in future letters con- tinue my rumblings through the United States. Yours truly, V- James Trow, ^iWN«!*