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I 6 A TOUR, THROUGH' The rapids not far from St. Johns are not fogreat, as to impede all communication with the lake and rivers. Rafts conftantly pafs at the fcafons, when the waters are liigh -, but boats are fo far impeded, that merchandize is conveyed by land from St. Johns to Cham^. blee, about nine miles. . A regular ftage paffes from Stc Johns to Montreal, by the way of Lapararie. In the fpringof the year the roads are wet and heavy ; but the excellent Canadian horfes, and dex- terous drivers, conveyed us in good feafon to the above village, which is oppofite to Montreal. The decline of day, and the expediency of waiting for the boars, which (tt out in the morning for the city, tempted us to amufe ourfelves with a walk through the fettlement, along the pleafant banks of the river. The moft diftinguifhed obje6l is the parifh church, fituated in a fmall open fquare, near the centre. The curate refides near it : His manfion i« the public property of the church, and is fufficiently large and commodious. — The church is fpacious and venerable, and conftruftcd upon a fpecies of architefture UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 7 are not )n with pafs at h ; but lanclize ChaniT- ^hns to In the heavy ; d dex- feafon )rite to tdicncy in the amufe ement, e pari fn e, near t: His church, ious. — le, and tecture which is not modern, but fo far reduced to rule, as for a long rime to pleafc the eye, and entertain the curious. It is ftrong and lofuy.. preavy arches within, fupport the roof^ and the ferious mind, cannot fail of being irn- prefTed with devout fenfations, while paffing through it. The chancel is well finiflied, and decorated with carvings, ar.d the furniture upon the altar: A number of hiftoric fcripture paintings adorn tl*e walls. Contiguous to the chapel, is alfo a female academy, or country nunnery j v/here the village girls are inflrufted by their own fex,. and others are received as boarders. Befides tliefe, there are about 100 houfes built of ftone, or hewn timber, and chiefly made white and plaftered with lime. The whole country is flat; and except the mountain of Montreal, at nine miles diflance, the horizon only bounds the view. Tlie illand, city, and mountain of Montreal, v/ith a number of other iflands, variegate the ex- tenfive fcene, weft and north, from Lapararie. The conveyance from hence to Montreal, is in flat- bottomed boats, which are managed by the inhabitants v/ith* great dexterity. They" ^M b A TOUR THROUGH lit , I. pjifs the rapids fafcly ; and the diflance h for- gotten, amidfl the hilarity and niufic of thefe v;atcrmcn, and the villages on the fiiore we lud leftj and that to which we approached. This city is defended on the river fide by an high wall, and entered by gates. The whole prefents an handfome view of well built houfes and churches. The ftreets are regular and corrmnodious. The walls which furround this place, are out of repair : Hiey inclofe the public buildings and fquares, and the nioft valuable part of the ftores and bu- finefs. Extenfive fuburbs contain the labor- ing people ; and v/hen united with the above defcribed part of the city^ make it large and. refpedtable. At the head of the deeper and more navi- gable waters of the river St. Laurence, and at the confluence of the immenfe lakes, and large rivers, north, weft and fouth-weft^ conneft- ed w^ith a flouri(hing country, Montreal will ever hold a confpicuous ftation among the bufy towns of North-America. The merchants who traffic v/ith the Indi- ans, in the north-wePcern country, refidt* and have their faftory here. This valuable bufi- n h o a: ? i.^ for- :)f thefe lore we ichcd. fide by The >f v/ell ets are which Thty s, and id bu- labor- above ;e and. navi- and at i large ineft- 1 will g the Indi. : and bufi- UPPER AND LOWER CAIVADA. c^ ncfs imploys many artlils : It m^y he faid to be the main-fprin^^ to the mercantile afiliirs of thefe regions. Many European merchanjs havd fettled here, and compofe part of the agreeable focicty we meet with-* The rapid and extenfive weftern fettle- ,ments, fincc the la^l war, call for a large fup- "^ply of merchandize ; which is paid for in I wheat, lumber, and many other articles of iproduce, with fome furs alfo. Great attention is paid to religion by the •Catholics. The parifh chuix:h, in the centre cf this city, is a magnificent fabric, and is built of ftone, in the form of a crofs. Its elegant fteeple is covered with tin, and fur- nifhed with three well-toned bells. A carving of the crucifixion, as large as life, is placed- overthe chancel, at the eaftend of the church. The furniture and decorations of the chancel* I are rich, and the hiiloric fcripturc paintings I numerous, and well executed. In the galle • »ry, at the weft end, is a good orgair. I ^ The lacriftee, or veftry room, is large and I richly flipplied with every thing that is ufed' I in the fblemnities of their religion. The vefb- I Hients of the priefts and ornaments of the altar,. M w I ]' !i u * lO A TOUR TMP.OUGH arc fuptrb. This edifice afl^ords an extenfiv^c field, for the curiofuy and inquiries^ of a catholic or proteftant. A large painting, which 13 intended to af- ford an idea of rurffatorv, is huno; at'the rio;ht fide of thecnterance into this biillJinnf : It ex- liibits an an^relic bcino;, or the divine Saviour defcending from an opening cloud, and with a moft benign countenance, extending^ his delivering arm to the dilbcfled, condemned, and defponding fpirits, rcprefented in the IjVv^er part of the pifture. This group are drawn with a variety of countenances; fome in all the diftortion of agony and defpair. — Others, with the cheering lines of liope.— Others, who have palled the leafon of con- finement, are reaching forth their hands, to accept a refcue, by the heavenly meirenger. The defgn and execution, are ingenious. The leiibn taught from this reprefentation, is obedience to virtue's laws, that we rnay ef- cape the place of torture, in a future world. In this extenfive fabric, all the folemnities of religion are celebrated, v/ith great pomp and decorum. Contiguous to it, and connected by a Ion rv tenfiv^c , of a 1 to af- le rii2:ht It ex- 5avloiir id vvirK ing_ his emncd, in the mp are ; fome pair. — ope— )f con- ds, to cn2;cr. enious. ion, is ay ef- world. .ties of ■np and along UPFEPv AN D LOWER CANADA. 1 1 i covered walk, is tlie leminary or conftant re- I fidcncc of the clergy. They eat at one com- I nion table, and have their Icparate apart- I rricnts for ftiidy and retirement, with a com- !|mon library. In the rear is a garden, arranged in regular order, ftored with much good fruit, and af- ifording a pleafing fpot for air and exercife. A college of confiderable fize in another fpart of the city> is under the care of the clergy. liln it, young men are taught the learned lan- guages, and many branches of literature.—- ^Ilere is a library and good accommodations for the ftudents. The college, of the order of the Recollett Friars, is out of repair ; — th^ fraternity is aU moft aillblved, by the death of its mem- ' bers i as none could be added to it, accord- ing to ftipulatJons at the conqueft. Mafs is conftantly celebrated in their chapel. ^ The college of the diflblved order of Jc- iuits, is converted into barracks for foldiers, and a prifon. The chapel is repaired and ''ecorated, for an Eng^.fh church. !! ; Ht 'I 12 •A TOUR through Large gardens are connedled with thefc inftitutions, and take up a very important and iifeful part of the city : They hovvcrver lub- ferve the purpofes of health, while the fubiirbs furnifli room for the abodes of the induftrious and poor, and gardens for the citizens. V; Three nunneries are within the city. One, is devoted to the education of females. Two, are hofpitals for the fick, and afylums for tlie poor. Both are well regulated and valuable -^j inftitutions. They are fupported from the early benefa-flions of their foufiders, who were females, and other property owned by their refpeftive communities, joined co their earn- ings, from various fpecimens of ingenuity, and induftry, which th'^y conftantly vend. The nunnery in the city, which Is an hof- pital, loft part of it funds in the late feizure of the property of the monaftries in France. Thefe w^omen, wifliing to preferve their fifter- hood, and to perform, the accuftomed a£ls of' charity to the fick and poor, fupply the de- ficiency in their prefen: inconjcs, by making up the articles of Indian drefs, fent by thf merchants among the weftern tribes. Thii is the chief afylum for the diftrefled. TIk ■nuns have provided an apothecary's room, n o ch thefc tant and vcr fub- : fubiirbi iuftriom UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, i j which is well florcd with all neceflary medi- cine, and the king's chief phyfician, direfts the adminiftring of it, and conftantly vifits the patients gratis. nefs, The buildings for courts and public bufi- are not difcinguiflied for convenience or tafte, while the edifices dedicated to reli- gion and piety, do honor to their proprietors. IS tor the C -j-j^^ market is well furnifhed with the pro- valuable *^^^^ of the feafon, cheap, good, and in great vaiiety. , - " , One, Two, from the jvho were by their eir earii- igenuity, vend. s an hof- e feizure France, leirfifter- d ails oi the de- making ,t by thcl IS. Thy Id. rh 's rooni' The champ-dc-mars, or field of military parade, is on the ramparts, near the north gate. It is a pleafant walk, and at the hours of bringing on, and relieving the guards, af- fords a lively fcene. From this city, wc have a view of the Lountain, which is at a fmall diftance. It is [fcended by a good road, which rifes gradu- lly, and prefents a variety of interefting ob- ?6ls, fuch as gardens, orchards, and country ; :ats. — From the fummit, the eye beholds lany lively landfcapes. ^* H A TOUR THROUGH The city and the iflands in the river, or rather lake which furrounds the illand and mountain of Montreal, and Ifle Jefu, unite in i entertainino; the (isht in endlefs variety. This f IS the magazine for fruit, in particular fc)r f apples for the province. Thele are railed in | abundance, are excellent in their quality, I preferved with eafe, and fold at a moderate '' price. Several pariflies and parifl") churches are on this Ifland. At La'chine is the landing place from the upper countries ; rapids making any further progrefs towards the city, by vvater, very difficult: Boats are built at this place, and loaded for the Indian and weflern traffic. A canal is meditated, but not begun, in or- der to remove the difficulties, which prevent the loading at Montreal : — A convenient val- ley prefenrs for this purpofe. The expence would be amplv compenfated by the facility, with which bufinefs would then be executed. The private villas, country houfes, gar- ^| dens, and highly cultivated mountain and ''| ifland, intice the vifitor to fpend fome tiir.e among the delightfome fcenes. The roads are good in fummer and winter. The foil .i is rich, and air exceedingly falubrious. ill lii UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 1 5 i^er, or nd and mite in . This jlar for aifed in qiicility, odcrace s are on ig place :ing any f water, |S place, traffic. in or- jrevent ent val- xpence iacility, lecuted. ^s, gar- ain and ne time e roads he iuil Is, A part of the army is fniticned in Montreal, in barracks ereded for ihe foldiery, under the French adminiftiation, and thole formed lately in the college of the Jcfuits. An happy harmony prevails among al! or- ders of the inhabitants, which are compoled of Englifh, French, Scotch and Jrifli. An urbanity, hofpitality, and interefting gentility of manners pervade moft claffes of people. Since fettlements have been made in the northern parts of Vermont, and its neigh- bourhood, on ihe Canada fide of the line, an ;extenfive traffic has been introducedin to this city from thence. This will increafe with the population, and for a long time be unri- valled. In cafe of war, Montreal is expofed to irivafions by land, fliould the States take < a fliare in the conteft. ^ Religion, appears to have its proper influ- ence upon the inhabitants. Churches are thronged: Peace takes place among pro- feflbrs of every name. The clergy are well fupplied. The Englilli priefls have their re- wards from England, joined to an annual filary paid by tlieir j)arlllioners. The catho-^ ,- lie miniitqrs have certain rcnts,^ which ai:c mm ■!»«■■■« m^M 16 A TOUR THROUGH competent to their neccint'es. From their wealth and good oSces, the poor and dil'- treffed fin.l great relief* from want and woe. 'l"he clergy of all ranks are pious, police men,- •of good learning and abilities. Sonie fchools are erefted under European inflruftors. Their progrefs has not yet been fuch> as to become diftifiguifhed feminaries, in the city or its neighbourhood. Females are generally taught in the nunneries, and by an ordinance of the catholic church, boys and girls arc not educated in the fame fchool. Aftef an agreeable abode of a fortnight at Montreal, we fet out for Quebec^ by the way of William Henry, a town which receiv- ed its name from a prince of England, who vifited the provinces not many years fmce. It is fituated at the eaflerly f>oint of land, where the rivers Sorel and St. Laurence unite their waters. The ground is advantageous for formins; a town. It is laid out for the purpofe, and a number of houfes ate erected, rare of the army are quartered at William Henry to guard the pais to and from the country, by the way of the river. A.s fettle- rnents increafe in Vermont, and f n the (biith fide of Canada, near the St itcs, the town of William Henry will increafe alio. The eafy 'V'' f JA UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 17 \ their d dir- d woe. police iropean et been inariesj ^'e males and by ►oys and lool. night at by the leceiv- d, who 5 fmce. f land, ce unite itageous for the Tectecl. illiam rMH the Is iettle- ibuth ;own oi: he eaf; water conveyance down the river, impeded only by the rapids above Chamblce, and the fmall ftreams and mill feats upon them, will tend to encourage every kind of iaduftry. The Engliih church h the fecon i that has been built in the province, — A fmall one had P. been previoufiy erected on the oppofite fide f)f the St. Laurence, rather as a monument oc maufjleum for the dead, than a chapel for a. numerous congregation. ^ ' ■ A miniiler of the EngllHi church, a mam of fortune, refides and officiates at William. Hfihlenry, and among the troops at St.. Johns,, The Catholics have a large f^one churchy which is not far from the manfion of their tninifter. In no parts of this province, do . the Catholics appear negligent in providing fcr the inllitutions and fuppoit of religion,. . 1 This town is about fortv miles below Mont- l?eal. As Vv'e came hither by water, we were* feonftantly amufed with a pleafant country:: jillages are in view on both fides of the river; Many of them are decorated with fpircs made Iriiiiant by a covering of tin. ] It' i!iii I ■ It. 1 i8 A TOUR TWROucr-i For their better accommodation with wa- ter, the inhabitants build their houlcs near the banks of ^he river, and the farms -are confequently narrow in front, and their houi'es not far from each other. Thefe are formcvi of (tone or fquare timber ;-*—being made whiic with lime, the contraft between them, and the verdure of the trees and fields, caufes a pic- ture like fcene. We in reality pafled one continued village. A decent, refpeftful affability of manner?, prevails among the French peafantry; the roads and houfes being near the margin of tiie water, we frequently converfed with the inha- bitants on the fhore* , Our waterman were civil and attentive.— We were often indulged by them, with a French fong, and with gratification faw their attention to their religion, as they pafled the churches. Thefe they vifiied at the hours oi devotion. Having fpent fome days at William Henry, we proceeded down the river ; but having reached the center of the Lake of Sr. Peter; a fouth wind caufed a dangerous fwell, an( we landed at the river De Loup, from whence a' UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 19 vith vva- jics ncir irnis "are ir houfcs I formed ide while , and the ^s a pic- iffed one manner?, try ; the ra\ of tliC the inha- ntive.— with a faw their affed the : hours oi n HenrV; having Ir. Peter veil, anci whence we took carriages, and were conveyed to Three Rivers. The iflands formed at the mouth of the river Sorel, extend from William Henry to ; the Lake. They are flat, variegated by trees, cultivated fields, and fmall farm houfes. Oui pafiage in difierent direftions, among thefe Siiflands, and the width of the Lakes, deprived us of our former views of the country , but thefe were exchanged for objects equally 'amufing, as the iflands afford a great variety. The town called Three Rivers, is built upon a rifing ground : The front towards the river, is generally a high fleep bank of fand and gravel. It is the only place of confe- ; quence, as to trade, on the north fide of the river St. Laurence, between Montreal and Quebec. While the province was under the adminiftration of the French, fome luperior civil and military officers rcfided, at Three 'Rivers. A large parifh church, a nunnery which is an hofpital, and place for female education, are poffeffed by the Catholics. — I The college crefted by the Jefljits, is now a prifon, and place for public offices. . Its chapel is improved, partly for civil courts and a congregation of Proteftants of the Eng- 20 TOUR THROUGH 1 m lifli church. This union of religion and law, under one roof, is uncomnriOn. The chancel is circular, and converted into ver.y commo- dious feats, forjudges, jurors, and other at- tendants upon judicial proceedings. On the fouih fide of the fame chapel is ereifted a decent pulpit, reading defl^ and pews. This town enjoys fome trade with the In- dians, who often vifit it with their furs, belts, and other manufaftures. The foil of the neighbouring country is barren and fandy.— About nine miles in its rear is a large fettle- ment formed by a furnace, which is the chief faftory for caft iron. From hence, the whole northern country is furniHied with that im- menfe fupply of ftoves, fo unlverfally ufed in thofe provinces. European arcifts, diRin- guifhed for their ingenuity, are employed as fuperintendants and conductors of this exten- five bufmefs. In every part, ability, and en- terprize are difcovered, and a better regula- ted factory need not be fought for in North- America. ' The mechanifm of the extenfive works,*— the mode in which water is conveyed to the various parts where it is wanted, caufe great difpatch in bufmefs. I t ] in nl r; 1 ct St b) pi th and law, 1 " chancel commo- Dther at- On the ■rcfted a 1 the In- rs, belts, 1 of the fandy.— ^e fettle- the chief he whole that im- ally ufed , difl-in- loyed as s extcn- and en- regiila- Norch- ►rks,— [i to the fe great UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, ii The town ofThfee Rivers, obtained its name Tom ics neiglibourhood to the river, which as two iflands at its mouth, as it enters the 'ivtr S:. Laurence, and this forms the ap- learance of three ilreams. The central fitiiation of this town, be- 'fv/een the cities of Montreal and Quebec, has ild Tiany to projuft the ereftion of a college Ih it, for the inltruction, of young men. ^^ An Englifh clergyman, and two Catholic Ijiiniflers, re fide here up n hantifome ftipenJs :^iled by their rtfpcftive ccmmuiiities. Locations are made in the lands fcauh of Three Rivers, on the oppofice fhore, and a i^^mmunication between Canada and the States, will fliortly be opened from thence, by the way of the river Conneclicut. 4 The road from the river De Loup to thi^ ace is good, and like the country already fcribed, well fettled and well cultivated. ^e pafled the late cantonments of thofe called e loyal corps, during the late war, and the Jhards on the point of the Lake of St, Peter, ^here the waters afTume a narrower courfe, d become part of the river St. Laurence. t - \ . . ■ m § ft2 TOUR TriROUGIT A new fcenc opened no n onr arrival at Qij^^bcc, the key iiino tiic , rovincc by vvdtcr, ^ii-i the tliciitre of many miiicary opcr tions, \vhcre the mcmbtrs of two European natif^ns have riilcvl, and the inluilncants of the Stales have dillingiulhed themftlvcs by ttieir valor.!^ Unfavorable winds, and the impediments of a tide, frequently detained us on our way to this city, as the waters fl )W up the rivci ao far a^ T- ree Rivers. — Tlds left Uo to at- tend to its progrcfs, and to regulate our voyag accordingly. From Montreal to Quebec, wc have agair found an almolt continued village. Gooi' accommodations by night and day, and ealj conveyances by land and water, all at a mo- derate price^ Religion appears truly venerable, not onh %^ in its temples and other edifices, but in th; ^<^ liofpitality, politenefs, and genteel deport- ^f ment of mott of its profefTors. To the clergv and other gentlemen of rank and information, we have been indebted for many civilities.— At Cape Santa and Point-au-Tremble, wc were politely entertained, while the winds an(| tide delayed our voyage. The firft of thefc t UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 23 r rival \': )V vvdHLi, cr tions, n rivitiori^ lie Still* ♦ir valor, ledlmenti our way the rivu uj to at- ur voyay lave a^air Gooi and t.\\] at a 11)0- not onl\ |3iic in th: 1 deport- ;he clerg; )rmation ilities.- ible, n, 'inds and of thefd %i)l.]ges, is made confpicuous at a confi ler.ble iilhnce, by a large church adorned with hve ce[;lcb — ail covered with tin. Tliis temple (lands on a rifing ground, and as founded by three ladies of great eftatt — |i is called the Church of the Three SiiterSj in fonimemoration of diis their piety. It ranks tfi fize with the Cathedral ot" Chiebec, and tliC parilh church of Monircal. P'.'int au-Tremble is eighteen miles from Que bee. The late fufFrav>an ov aliillant bifh^.p, C. ikd the coadjuc'-.r, rrfidied in this pari 111.— I-^.^ v/as greatly eftecmed by Lord Dorchefier di\d the court at C^iebec. Tr.roujj-h the in- fluence of t!)is nobleivian, that v/ortny prelate Was advanced to the Kpifcopal cljair. He Attended Tord Dorcheirer on a voyage to Enn;iand, and was formerly a Cath die mif- fi< nary among the Indians at Penobfcot, in the State of Mafiachufetts, and received a flipend from the general court there fjr thofe ftrxices. A fpecimrn of policy or liberality ^f tliat tin^e, which is to be applauded, but not eafily accounted for. This dignitary " ned to a zealous attachment to his reli- ;)Usprofeffion, the chriftian, genlcman, the end of learning, ami patron of ufeful arts. ilill m 1 :„ !>;» 24 A TOUR THROUGH and men of merit. He died in Quebec, and the curate of Longiiile, near Montreal, was elected to the f^mc dignity. The bifnops of the Catholic church, pro- ferve the fuccefTion of epifcopal power with great care, and no one is confccrared v/ithom the approbation of the bifhop of Rome, and the governor of Canada. Thus preferving ihe dlfl:in(5lton of ec- clefiaftical powders, the rights of patronage, and the duties of allegiance, and removing jealoufies and difcontents on all fides. One bifnop only is neceflary, to deliver the facerdotal power to another, and a fuffragan 18 always elefted upon the deceafe of either of the two, that the diocefe may not be def* titute of a fupcrior. The other biOiop re- fides with the clergy in the feminary of Qne- bec. His former palace is converted into, land and other oftices, and irs chapel into court or parliament houfe. The clergy teac a number of young men in the feminary, anJ are the principal inftrudlors through the pro- vince. It is a common pl^ce remark that the clcrgyl il I 111 UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. ,"S f bcc, and real, was 'ch, pre-' wer with i v/ithoiit onie. and 1 of ec-l latronage, removingi diver thcj fuffragan of eitherl )t be delH lop re- T of Qne- rteci into pel into a rgy teach nary, anJ the pro- he ckrgh e^ the church of Rome, v/ifh to keep the people in i:.;]V)rance. This charge has given juife ce in Canada. At the firit fcttlement of ti js province, large refervations of lands v/cre made, for the promotion of learning, land commodious and excellent colleges were :re6ted. Thefe were under the fuperintend- mce of the fociety of Jefiiits. InPuuftors vere placed and every needful endowment and irrangeme^nt made for diiTeminating knowl- :dge. But, upon furrendering of the pro- ince to the BritiOi, after the conqueft,' thefe :olIeges were converted into barracks and irifons, both in Montreal and Quebec. The funds are appropriated to other ufes a^ter the leceafe of the longed liver of the fraternity. All atten.pts to ereft fubftitutes for thefe, [lave been abortive. The nation of England las not made am.ends for the lofs, and the Catholics have been defeated and chagrined, '>— The Anglo-Americans who abode by the ;^ritifli ilandard, and wifhed to provide for |he education of their children in Canada, have endeavoured to form academies and fchools .fter the example of the States. The. Ca- Ihoiic bifliop has been confulted, and he gave liis opinion witliout referve, that the colleges W I ; ^l!l i i f ' 'I! .n, jiiii 26 A TOUR THROUGH and property of the Jefuits ouglit to be rcf- tored to their original iifes in promoting knowledge; — that they were amply adequate to every purpofe. He was a&ed to give a ftatement of the prelent revenues of t!ie clergy, with a hope, that a fund might be raifed from thence for the purpofe. His anfwer was, that the incomes of the clerp-\' v/cre barely fufficient for their necelTitiesy-. thatthefe depended upon certain parts of the produces of the country, which were fre- quently diminilhed by blaft, drought, and unfruittlil feafons^, — that the clergy were con- ftantly obliged to refign their dues to relieve the poor, and thus neglefted exafting juftice for themfelves. After deliberating on the fubjeft, the go- vernor and the Englifli party relinquifiied the drfio-n. Collee-es are not ere6led. Youn^^ men arc fent into England and the States for education. The clergy of the Romifli church proceed to educate all who are placed under their care, and fome Proteftant fchools are taught in the towns of Montreal, William Henry, Three Rivers, and Quebec. This laft city is compofcd of two parts, called the Upper and Lower town. The lat-| > be ref- omotin.T; o adtrqu,ue to give a i of the Tiight be fe. His e clergy, ^(Tities, — ,rts of the vere fre- ght, and ^ere con- to relieve ng juilics the go- |inquifiied Young tates for li church cd under hools are Willi am :| ^o parts, The lar- UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 27 ;:er is ere(5ced under a precipice, and upon tlie beach on the banks of the river. It ia connected with the upper town, by a windinj^ ilreet, and a foot way up winding ftairs. In it are the public and private fbores and wharves. /rhe depth of the water, the height to whicli it rifes, and the commodious beach formed during the ebb of the tide, aflbrd many con- veniences to facilitLite buiiuefs. One ftreet of houfes, wich the above (lores and v/harves, flcompole the principal partof the lower town. t The upper town is built upon an eminence which commands the country and river. The fortifications are (Irong, the city is entered by iiates, and muil reduced only by great military force, regular fiege, and perlevering oppera- lions. Every apparatus and provifion for its flefence, are prepared and in readinefs, in ;^reat quantities. Surprize, firatagem, and Jtarvation, are fcarcely practicable, cfpecially- i^hen the rigors of winter, are to be furmount- |d by allailannts and beliegers. " V/ithin the walls, are the chatteau or so- Pernor's houlc, all public offices, the church- es, feminary, Jefuits and RecoUetts coUe:- jes, and two nunneries.. tS' It i:i iMi ill 28 A TOUR THROUGH The chatteau is a laivi^e ilone bullJincr, with n C(UTimodious fpot as a court yard, or place of parade in front towards the town. Joine.l to this, is a kn2:e dinino; or banquctdn-r hali : On tiie iummit of an inacceinblc precipice in front from this houfe and its gardens, we view the country eaft> and foiith acrofs the river, and the whole of the lower town. Tlie mofl remarkable bulldino: in Q'ccbec, IS the Cathedral church, v^^hich is large, and attended by a numerous congregacion. It is well adorned at the eaft end near the akar, but doth not make the fame fplcndid appt^r- ance, with the parifli church of Montreal. The femlnary and former college of the Je- fuits are large. Elegant chapels are joined to each of them. The Recolletts college and chapel have been demoliflied by fire, and are in ruins. The nunneries are alfb large: One is a place of female education., the other is an hofpital:. A third is without the city> and an hofpital. Thefe inRitutions, the pro- perty of females, — the receptacle for the fick and wounded, are conduced with great order ajid economy. Hiim;m woes are alleviated by them in a manner, that does honor to human nature and religion. They contain large UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. -5 wit It :>{' place! Joinc.l Uif hali : ipice in wc view .e river, ^ccbec,, •gc, and 1. Il is he aUar> ^(* ap{x:ar- icreal. fihe Je- joined college ir€, and :> large : le other he citv> the pro- the Tick at order iated by ) human n large *.! apartments for fick men, and fick women.. > They arc the only alms houfes in the pro- vince, and are fupported from the property of the nuns. Thefe women are the nurfes and attendants. Apothecaries* rooms, fup- plied with medicine are in each, fupcrin- tended by a nun. Tlr.s is her principal em- ])]oyment. The hoipital rooms are conneft- cd with the chapels, and by the opening of folding doors the fick may atcend the devo- tions. They are fcreened from public view- by a curtain and lattice work. Great gra- city and decorum are obferved through the hole. On the fide oppofite to the apart- ments of the fick, is the chapel of the nuns, opened and. fecured in the fame manner. The main chapel is acceffible to all vifitoi^s, as are the churches through the province. Such fa- cred refpect for religion, and fuch integrity prevail, that the churches are open night and day. The hand of facrilcge, has fcldom deprived the temples of the fmillefl: article. |Contiguous to each of the colleges and nun- neries, are gardens which occupy a confidera;" h\t part of Quebec. Many private gardens £re alfo v/ithin the city. Perhaps no more ground is taken up in thefe, than is ncceflary to preferve the health. '•?.^ C2 ill llilllif . i; ;! Illi 30 A TOUR, Tf^ROUGH Fires have frequently ravaged the uppei* and lower town^ and the fuburbs. The moft memorable fpot contiguous to Qu:^bcc, is Abraham's plain. This is an cxcenfive flat ground aboin: a mile in widths extending in a line with the fiver towards the fouth-weft. Near the river the bank nfc] fuddenly, and forms a precipice not eafily to be afcended. On the north fide, this hii! gradually defcends to the river St. Charles. The neighbouring region then rifes in a gen- tle flope, and we are entertained with a view| of thtt pleafant country, farm houles, andp villages, until the profped is loll in the dif-' -tant hills and the horizon. On this plain! Wolf fell. The fpot is fliewn, but it is not! inarked by any monument to diftingmfh icl •He landed at a place now called Wolf's cove,l made by the river, covered by the circul J form of the neighboring height or precipice.! He afcended by an hollow way, which na-B turc had formed by a fmall rivulet caufed bjB rains from the water collefted on the plain.B Nature had thus prepared a landing placcB and a pafs from the beach, which was cover-B ed from the view of the befieged, and gavS an opportunity to furprize the enemy withiJ the walls* I H UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 3 1. the upper tignous tO! rhis is ani I in width,! awards the^ bank rilh^i )C eafily to ', this hill t. Charles.! s in a gea- vith a viewl jules, andl in the dif- this plain tit it is noi :ingHifh it, olf 's cove, le circulai precipice. which na- caufed bj the plain, ding place A^as cover and gave my withiii The public road runs along this plain, and is decorated with gentlemens* country feats and fertile lields. Beyond this cove is Powel place, the refi- dence of the Proteftant bifliop. It is an ele- gant houfe, and the farm and gardens are in Englifli (lyle. A large area in front, with irregular cluf- ters of trees, a walk on the banks of the river, and the defcent by fteps, lead the vifitor around [a feat of Dhe greateft difcinftion in the neigh- [bourhood. I; In furveying Abraham's plain, we were pointed to the places where Montgomery, V/oofter and others quartered and carried on their military operations. The country around Qjiebec exhibits many enchanting profpeds. The villjn^es and fet- klements acrofs the St. Laurence, towards .^point Levi and the States — the Ifle of Or- "leans — the country towards the falls of Mont- "niorency — ^^Dorchefcer bridge — and the nun- nery without the city, give beauty to extenfive --profpe(fts. The falls of Montmorency, at the rdiltance of leven miles, tempted us to a ride II iiiii.! II I J2 A TOUR THROUGH through the French villages and firms cad of ^n the city. |1j This admired profpeft is made by a fmall river, which defcends at lead two hun- dred feet in one fheet of water. A bafon bolow receives it, and it is conveyed from thence a fmall diftance into the river St. Lau- rence. We beheld the beauties of this place from a fummer houfe, which General Haldi- mand erefted over the river, to which wc defcended by feveral flights of fteps, made of! wood, by fome ingenious artifl:. The fummer houfe is really hung over the river, and the fall mud be from the above height, whenever it gives way to the decays of time. The varied tinges of the rainbow, f )rm.ed amidll the water and vapors in a clear day, — the dimi iifned ftature of the fiilicrmen belov/, and the ingenuity of the artift, aflTorded us much amufement.. This houfe is elegant, but not large. It is accommodated with all the offices needful for a place of retreat for an hour or a night : It is too coftly for a peafant and man of bu- finefs, and is not fufficiendy commodious for the permanent refidence of a gentleman of leifure, rank, or fortune. Much tafte is dil- SI UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 33 IS cad of BplayeJ, and feme conlidcrable expence has been bcftowed in decoration. le by a wo hun- A bafon 'ed from St. Laii- his place il Haldi- i^'hich wc made of I fummer and the /henever e. The d amidft ay, — the below, brded us ge.— -It^ needfuli a night: of bu- llous fori eman of) le is dil- The Indian villi^ge of Lorette is vifited by ;rangers, where iiiLcrcouiic: with civilized ^lations, and the fiiperintendcnce of tiie Ca- :holic clergy, exhibited the dcfcendents of :he aboriginals of America in a well regulated 'tdementj pious, induilrious, and moral. A chapel, parfon's houfe, and the ufual Infiitutions of this countrv, for the benefit of \ts inhabitants, are found in this place alfo. Rcfering particular remai*ks upon the cuf- >ms, manners, and peculiarities of this coun- 7 to the clofe of this work, we prpceed tQ, ^ther parts of the provinces. Upon leaving Quebec, we rcvifited fomft If the country through which we paifed oa |ur way thither. We found the river Sorel be much narrower than the St. Laurence^t id the margin equally well filled and deco- ited with handfonie villages, ttirough a fer- ile country. An uniformity of fafhion pre*', [ails in their churches and houfes — but tlia lariety of views is great. The narrowniefs. rf the river prefented objefts on each fi4e> we progreffed flowly againfb the flream. 34 A TOUR THROUGH '''!•' -!n at the head of riavigi-acl'^n is about one mile acrofs. Its form is circul ir, and its banks inhabited. A church and vil- Ja2;e on one fide, and an old (lone fortijicatiji. on the other, and the entering of the waten from Lake Champlani, down the rapids, give variety to the objedls v/hich engrofled oui attention. .The fort is fquare, inclofing a barrack, and guarding the water convcyaijce and entrance by land. The rapids are feldom pafled except in the fpring, and fome have proje3:ed a mode o( clearing out the rocks. Time will, by fome work of art, open an eify water communicar tion between tiie river and lake. . Very coftly and excellent mills are erefled on the fide of thefe rapids. The carrying place from hence to St. Johns is about eight miles. •^ — The road is good, boats are often taken acrols, and but little interruption to travellen UPPER AND LOWER CAIv'ADA. 3 5 :pJ;cs pl.ice bctv/cen Lake Clmmplain and .)!iebcc. ' Lower Canada appears upon examination, fo enjoy a:, many of the bk {Tings of life, as ire needful to m.dve mail happy. The go- 'tinment is milci and encrgetiv'\ The ancienc I^Vench code, and the prcfent iyilem of Eng- jini laws, are condufted in fuch a mode as to (ecu re the citizens at large, in every valuable light. A reprefentation, by the election of he people in a provinciallegifiature, and the irivilege of trial by jury, are efcabliflied by he conilicudon. The civil and military lift are maintained Jy the Britilh nation, and the people pay few ■r no taxes to defray the expenfes of govern* :nt. Salaries are paid to the Englifli clergy, hd to Ibme of the Catholic and Prefbycerian ndnifters, by the crown. The militia are officered by men elefled frcmi among themfelves, and their refpe/dive companies have alarm pofts aH'igned, and the Ijplcers refidence is marked by a pole with an evergreen top. In this mode, in all cafes of diPcrels and danger, a refort is immediately ||)intcd out, for the mhabitant and ftranger* ^..r. I ill rW iil'l' 36 A lOUR THROUGH To the fnith-eafl: of this pliice near tl:c St.itcs, llcVcniCiUs are rapidly torniiiig v.it'iinl the province. Hie letclers arc cliicMy from tl'C loy.ilids of tlie hite army, and enngrantsl fnnn New-England. Ah'eac'y lias cc^nfidera- ble laiul been improved and brcuf.;ht intcj culdvadon, and as thefe extend along the lines,) and aJivance toward the river St. Laurence, they will gready increale the profperity ot| this province. The hardy manners and indiiftry, the fuc- ■cefsfiil mode of clearing lands, in which chel northern colonifls excel, (.dve them manvl advantages. They cukivate the older farmsl through the ancient fettlements, among the French inhabitants better, and landholders irj general prefer fuch upon their eltates. This province, affords as niany of the m enjovments of life, and the people are happy, peaceable, and profperous as in an| part of North America. Few conquered countries have been better protected or go verned. Relii^^ion, while it reflrains the peo pie within the bounds of morality, has a largj fliare in teaching them to obey oovernmeni The principles of liberty and religion, whicf have placed all power in the hands of tfc 'm mam! UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 37 people, an.1 dedroyed m;\ny of the laws and ciiltoms of countries governed by abfoliite monarchs, and nobles and clergy with fupe- rior powers, are gnidually extending: This in confequence of the ufe and adminiflration of the Englilh laws and their opinions, cuflonis, manners and religion. The monaftic orJ.ers dccreafe gradually and few offer themfelves for admidion iiKo the nunneries. The order of Friars and Je- |fui.s were permitted to enjoy their eftates at [the conqueft, but to enrol no more in their fraternities. Thefe orders are therefore al- imoft cxtind. • An order called the grey nuns, are fchool miftrefTes, who inftrucl the girls only in the French and Indian villages. They are not confined to the cloifter, and are very attentive jto their pupils whom they early initiate into [an -acquaintance with the cathechifms, fmallcr *ituals, and the principles of religion. They lave maid-fervants who attend their domef- tic concerns, and the inflitutions may be con^ fidered as well regulated boarding fchools. — *te males who perform the more laborious part f the economy of the nunneries, are called t- 38 A TOUR THROUGH )) J ii!;;,,! Lay Sifters, and have not taken the vow of: fint^Ie life, Proteltantifm has fnade but litde progrefs. The univerfal toleration which is eftablilhed by law, — ihe peaceable temper of* the go^ vernors of the Catiiolic church,-^and the civil and military charafters at the head of the province, have preferved general harmony. The Englifh bifliop in Qiiebec is a gentle- man of great learning, eminently qualified for his office. His moderation and discretion are very acceptable to all parties. So little z^al for profelyting from the Catholics has pre^- vailed, that more have joined thefe from the Proteftants than have been converts to the Englifh church or the Prefoyterians. Although a bifhop, prieft^ and deacon of- ficiated in Quebec, yet an Englilh church has not been erefted for the ufe of the Engl.lh con- gregation, and divine fervlce is celebrated in a Catholic chapel. The politenefs and hof- pitality of the clergy wei'e difplayed in aj manner »vhich demands our higheft acknowl- edgments of gratitude. fh Our very geeteel reception by the aiTiflantH|tt UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, 29 biihop of the Catholic church, opened a fource for much information. Vv^c found him eafy of accefs, affable^ and dignified in his manners. He alfo performed the duties of a parlfli prlefi: and received a reward not fuperior to moft of that order. He frequent- ly adminiftered medicine to the fick, having been called in his m.iffions to ftudy the heaU ing art. ; By his letter we became acquainted with the bifliop of Quebec, a much efteemed ec- clefiaflic. in Quebec we met thefe dignita- ries together ar the feminary, and dined with the former at the chief juftice's, in company with three of tne ckvgy of France, gentlemen of diftinguilhed rank,, learning, and abilities* The intcicourfe ?mong all defcriptions of the heads of departments and communities is filch, as difplay*^ great order and confidence lair.ong each other, with a happy eiTed: upon, jthe people and fubordinate ftations. The common habit of a bifhop is a purple IftufF, with a velvet collar and cuffs. A gold, crofs about three inche*^ long is worn around: his neck, and a broad filk fafh with gold ItoiTels at the ends around his waift, Thi$^ i. !fi 'l il H ;ni! Jilli.. i;iN iii^i^ I S!ii:i ill I. 4^ A TOUR THROUGH drefs is fitted to the body but fpreads in the flcirt, reaching to the feet. It is cloied from the neck to the bottom with a large number of buttons. The habit of the inferior clergy but ib fiiiiilar in its fafliion. is black K ',. li. On our return from Quebec, we found the bifhop at Point-au-Tremble, relebratip'> the anniverlarv of his confecration, atter 'v.... by the head of the Recolletts, three of the clergy from France, and fome of the parifh clergy from the city and neighbourhood. — Perfeft eafe prevailed among all,' Towards the evening; the bifhop accompanied us to the banks of the river, attended by the head of the Recolletts, a gen-tlema^i far advanced in life> but retaining a fund of vivacity, and a fprightly fancy and humour, which make his company acceptable iii ail circles.. , When the fun was near fetting the parifli- bell rung, and the comp.iny taking off their hacs, corverfation was fufpended and devo^ tion engrofled a few minutes. This appeared to be a fignal for prefenting devout thankf- givings to the Father of mercies, and is ob-.. ferved accordingly by the whole pariih and Gountry^' . .v^, .. .i ., :. .V ,:,,;•. isi ^oracip--> UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 41! In the chapel a body of Inil^an men, wo- men, and children were upon their knees, to- tally abforbed in prefencing their evening adorations. We pafiTed thern, apparently without being noticed, and as tar as external deportment authorized us to judge of the employment of the heart, no fupplicantscoukl be more fincerely devout. They were parr of a tribe who were upon a vifit to the biihop their former prieft, and were treated with^ great tendernefs and kindncfs by liimfclf and his family. Tlie weather was pleafant and we had fcen Irhem in their encamp'ment near the margin ot^ the river. They had made their voyage in" ' birch canoe, which was now their flicker :,!■ the fun. The women v/ere bufy in Imanufafluring articles for fa!e in birch bark, which they decorate with the porcupine's quill — Diligence and innocence marked their [demeanor. Thefe temporary de.ences by jtheir canoes are mi^de m^ore convenient, by ^hc birch bark which they carry with i!icm; jwhich anfwcrs as a floor to fleep upon, or as :ents to ward off the wind and rain. The >irch canoes are made of the bark of th^t :rce and are of different dimicnfions. Thofe:. D 2 ' ' ' 4^ A TOUR THROLTGH' ufed in the North-wedern trade are larse :— -- They are conftrufled for expeditious Liling, •—are light, and eafily conveyed over porta- ges or carrying places. Great attention mull be paid to the motion at entering or while within them, as the Imalleft accident will t)vcrturn *-hem if this is not obferved. When they are I ^erly loaded and bailaftcd, they are fafe and pafs dangerous rapids without difficulty or damage. While the Canadian men have not gener- ally the benefits of fchools^ and want colleges and inftruftors, the women are well educated in city and country nunneries. The urfuline nuns teach in the cities and towns, and the grey nuns in the country. The country nunneries are large well built houfes, with gardens and needful court yards for fafcty, exercife and ornament. One of thefe is to be found in every village. Girls from a diftance are received as boarders, and the village girls as day fcholars — They retire at regular hours and ere removed at the plea- fure of parents. Being contiguous to the chapel of the neighbourhood, all attend de- votions morning and evening. The cfFeft is plcafing, as the women obtain good educa^ mi TW UPPER AND LOV/ER C ANADA. 43 tions in reading, writing, and many of the ufeful and ornamtntal branches of induitry which are peculiar to the (ex.. Religion is venerated in every quarter — Its temple-^, its humane, and benevolent inftitu- tions — Its monuments and memorandums in cities and countries are numerous. Hiftoric paintings and pidures cover the walls, and the croffes by the way conftantly lead the mind to devout refleftions. It would be fo- reign from the defign of this work to enter upon a detail of the peculiarities in the opin- ions and rites of the Catholic church, which we call fupcilcitious. Many ingenious argu- ments are given for their faith and mftitu- tions. Proteftants when they ftriped the churches of hiftoric fcripture paintings, de- prived themfclves not only of the rich pro- du6lions of eminent artifts, but of valuable means for u")ftru(5l:ion.- The animated canvas^ in Catholic countries, gives us more jufc and lively ideas of the nativity, refurreclion, and afcenfion of our Ix)rd, than can oe aflbrdtd by the tongue or pen of the learned, nay, than, by the language of fcripture itfelf. That the painter has given us the fcene in reality is not pretended, but as exaft a reprefentation of it as human ingenuity can devife. To this cuf- 44 A TOUR THROUGH I, torn of decorating churches it is to be attri- buted, that Italy produced fo many eminent painters, and became a fchool for men of that profefTion.- The charge of idolatry, has been carried in the opinion of fober Proteftants, beyond all bounds of decency. The repre fentation of the perfon or event is preferved to inftru6l and folemnize. The mod power^ ful arguments are ufed to deter the people from praying to images or pictures. While candor and charity lead us not to cen- fure or condemn what : are not thoroughly acquainted with, we fliould guard againft thofe violences and convulfions, which would make a prey of profefibrs of religion of any kind to gratify fpleen,' bigotry, avarice, or any hateful pafiion. Reformation is to be effedled by wifdom, gentlenefs, patience, and more exemplary piety. Travelling in this province is eafy and expeditious. A public mail-ftage runs from St. Johns to Quebec : A calefcha, a fpecies of chaife or chair drawn by one horfe, is ufed by all clafTes of citizens. Thefe are to be had at moft of the peafants houfes, and ob- tained at pleafure in the cities. For a mo- derate price travellers are conveyed in them- UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 45 fixty niilefx a day — As tiiC driver pafTes the churche;. aiid oollcs, he checl^s Ci>e fpeed of thr horfe ;ind itoDs fjv a minuce, and takinr^ cirhis hat repeat, a iinall prayer, and replaces; it upon hii> head and di i/'?s oix. Some have profanely re ii lied and ridiculed this prcuflice; but to be conducted as a llranger by attend*- ancs, who conllantly pay their homao-e to the Creator aad Preferver of nien, ijiuft confole every confidcrate mind.. It is more com-? iBcndable to encourage fuch devotions, than to interrupL them and give necdkls offence,. Water conveyances in fmall and large veft fels are alfo conflanc betwi^en the cities of Montreal and Qnebec. Whenever wind or tide detc-^ined us. contrary to our inclination, we found ready tranfportation by the peafants on the land. Water voyages arc peculiarly entertaining: The expedition and convenience by whicb they are conduced, lead many to prefer tiiis mode. The canoes and flat bcittomed boata. pals fafely and are managed v/nh dexterity-^: To the orderly and refpeftiul deportment of the boatmen in general, they joined a fcru- pulous demeanor as they paflbd the churches and monuments of religion. The w^term^ea conftantly amufed us with their iinging in a 46 A TOUR THROUGH jieai^'re which is harmonious, and animates then, to greater dexterity and expedition. The foregoing defcribes a fummers vifit and tour. A winter is fcarcely Ids pleafanc; The country is then covered with fnow— -the waters* congealed, and pleafure and bufinefs create an aftive ftdSon, The roads are good: Fat horles and good (leighs,. called carioles, are plenty. Dreiled in fur and prepared for the climate, the cold and ftorm. makes but little impreflion — They caufe but little com- plaint by either night or day, and the houfes being heated by ftoves a temperature is form- ed to that degree, which caufes flowers to appear in full bloom, and citron trees are to be found which have not been injured by froft for many years. . - " - With a warm drefs, a bufl^aloe fkin over our feet and lap, a fur cap, muff, mittens and bulkins lined with fur, v/e vifited the village of the Algonguin and Irrioquois In • dians, about 40 miles from Montreal — This is the refidence of the dcfcendants and rem- nant of two tribes, who dwell in two ftreets or fmall cantonments in houfes formed of hewn timber clofed with lime. The diftance between thefe cantonments is but a few rods. UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 47 In each is a fmall chapel of a regular form, about fifteen feet fqiiire. Thefe edifices are frequent in thefe provinces and chey are ini- proved in the Cathf lie procefTionj, in villa- ges, as a fubilitute for large churches in the cities. Certain folemnities are attended iri them on public feftivals. The Indians appear to be totally converted to chnftianity, and reduced to order under the government. No attendants upon reli- gious worfhip can be more punftual or rever- ential, and the fino-ing; of their women is foft and enchanting. The large chapel is deco- rated with a number of excellent hiftoric rep- refentations taken from facred fcripture. — ^ The altar, veftry room, veftments of the priefts, and the furniture at large ufed in this temple, are exceeded by few of the French churches. M The Indians do not confine their devotions to the public afTembling in the church, but are pun6lual in their morning and evening ejaculations before and after their meals, and in all cafes of difficulty and danger. After the feafon of hunting expires, thtrfe two tribes return to their village : — One of 4^ TOUR THROUGH Hi i ; «' them permits the wom^n and children to at- tend them inco the foreil : — In the other, the women abi ie at home. In fiinimer the land is ciilriv^atevi, anvl bicad and many other ne- ceiTarifs raifed for their conrumption during the year. They have horfcs and other cattle, and vehicles for v/inter travelling. The wo- o men are diligent in their domeilic conc:rns, and manufafture belts, mockalons, and vari- ous parts of the clothing of their familie-:.— Furs and fkins are drelled -by thefe people, and their whole time appears to be induftri- oufly employed in the manufi6lures peculiar to themfelves. A large fiirplus is fold to the merchants in this villa^rc and Montreal. Tra- ders are eftablifhed in all thefe fetrlements, who enjoy a lucrative traffic and poffefs the confidence of the Indians. ^ ; ■ •■ The felicity and profperity which prevail, afford ftrong arguments in fupport of the po- licy of both the French and Englifli gov- ernments, and the good effeftof the Catho- lic religion. Thefe tribes are ufi^ful auxiiia- ries in all confufions Vv'ith the weftern tribes, ana are employed as ambafladors and runners. * ■' About forty miles above diis fettlement, plantations are forraing an the Ottawais river 'i V •■ UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 49 V into -a region but little known until hue years. A large country is now opening by water upon this river, which will be the principal channel of communication with the north- weftern country. The neighbourhood of this territory to Montreal, and the eafy commu- cation by water to every part of the provin- ces, make It very valuable. At the mouth of this river is the Lake of the two mountains, known by its vicinity to two high hills, which are to be feen ai a con- fiderable diftance. Many fertile iflands and fmall ftreams are connefted with this Lake and the river. iii Oppofite to this Indian village is a French fettlement, to which we pafled thro' an avenue of evergreens of about twelve feet in height, placed in the ice, in regular order, equi- diftant from each other. This is a common praftice, and very neceflary, where roads are expofed to be deftroyed by new fnows, or the traveller may lofc his way in a ftorm. A ftone fortification formerly defended the entraice into the Lake and river at this place, and fome of its remains are to be feen, conti- D TJT9-Tr SO A TOUR THROUGH guous to tjie chapel and parifh hoiife. Thcfc are ere6led on a point of land, where com manding views prclent in every direftion . Time may make this a place of importance, and a large city may be formed where the natives have refided unmolefted for many years. A road is opened from Montreal in the rear, and-' winter journey is made acrofs the iflands and frozen waters in front. The cuftoms and manners of the Indians, have been very generally and accurately de^ cribed by thofe who firfr vifited them, what we call, their ruiie and favage ftate — An intercourfe with thofe who have emigrated from Europe, has changed the fcene in ferae degree among the tribes in Canada. They have aflumed the fhort furtout which is gen- erally ufed by the peafantry. The children are nurfcd upon a board, and the blanket i.s retained by men, women and children, as the outer garment in rain or cold. The Indian (locking and mockafins, are well adapted to the climate. The French peafanis wear a (hoc of lained leather, confl:ru6ted in the fame form, * } The French government, early countenance matrimonial alliances with the natives, and a Mill!?:"' V UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 5 1 great rimilarity of features and coniplexion appear in all parts of the country, througli which we have paffed. This aillnity is evi- dent in both the French and Indian fettle- ments, and men and women of thefe refpec- live tribes and nations, live happily together in domeftic and matrimonial llate. Their progeny marry together, as children of one common family. Was thi« virtuous and ra- tional matrimonial alliance encouraged, by the European emigrants into the American- regions north and fouth, many confufions and outrages would be prevented. « From this village we pafled through French fettlements into the upper province, and the towndiips poffeffed by the late loyal corps and the adventurers from Europe and the States. People of every language and nation^ have came hither and formed profpering co- lonies. Heaven has blefled their labors, in-- dullry, and enterprize. Few have experi- enced greater fuccefs. The nation of Eng- land has foitered them with great care, and beftowed rations of provifions, clothing,, materials for houfe building, huibandry tools, and continued the pay of the late officers and foldiers for tliree years. Eaclx of the cmi- ^'■i 5^ A TOUR THROUGH ^i| grants alfo had a quantity of land beflowed upon them. In return for this bounty, the nation vends her m inufaclures, and muft enjoy a lucrative commerce with countries that are increafin^ in wealth and numbers, whofe confumption of foreign commodities will increafe in propor- tion alfo. The advantages to the nation from this juflice, policy, and mode of colonizing will be immenfe. The country is fertile, weU timbered and watered. Commodious locks are formed near tlie rapids, which facilitate tranfportaLion. The winter is peculiarly fa- vorable for conveying the produce of the country and commodities of the merchant to market, as the roads are good^ the country flat, and waters frozen. At St. Regis on the f)uth fide of the river, a number of Indians refide in a fmall town, built of hewn timber, who are occupied in hunting, fii'hing, farming, an J the manufac- tures of their tribes. The m ){l diilinguillied cbjecl ia this place is a very large Catholic 'jhurch, inferior to few in fize^ which has been lately built by the Indians thcmfelves, with a fmall adiftance from the clergy and fume geuucmen of rank and fortune, Mcn^^ UPPER AND i:OW£R CAffAD A. 53 women, and children in this vill ige aGired the mafons a'^d carpenters in procuring timber,, ftone, and lime, and in every p.^flible pa"t of the labour. It is a work which does honour to their 2eal^ and is an ornament to a very pleafant country, contiguous lO fertile i (lands, ana the waters of the river St. Laurence.. Mountains, towards the fouthweft are {(^en, v/hich are in the Si:ate of New-York, and neighborhood of Lake Champlain — Roads from hence, and from an American plantation, making on the fide of the States oppofite J ohnftown, or Ofvxgatche, wdll expcviite the communica- tion with Albanv and New- York, and Ih* rtcn. the prefent route m^^re than one hundred miles. The country is well calculated for this purpofe. The Britifh nation pay a falary to the Ca- tholic minifter of St. Regis, and a preityte- rian minifter on die oppofite fhore. At Cornwall and Joh; down, they are about to cre(5l and maintain churches and acad,emi|^3j ai)4 a fum is afened for the purp(;>fe.. ICingfton is- a confiderabk town in tlit L^p- p f« 41 Mi\ - ^- J D 2: i+ A TOUR THROUGH per province. It is erefted near the old fort> called Frontinac, part of which remains with the barracks, and are improved by the gar- rlfon which is (lationed there. Many large houles, (lores, and Ibme convenient wharves are built near the river or lake. Bf.nng at the extremity of that inland fea> called the Lake Ontario, and near the outlet from thence which forms the river St. Laurence, this mud be a town of confiderable importance. A number of large vefiels are conltantly palling from hence in every direftion acrofs the Lake, and boats are arriving to, and paffmg from hence and Montreal. The country is clear- ing and cultivating. Numerous bays and rivers arc conne6led with the Lake, and wealth muft reward the induftry of a bufy, enterprifing people. Wheat, lumber, cattle, horfes, and pot-afhes, will compofe the prin- cipal exports. The €onftant influx of inhabi- tants will for a long time, confume the pro- duce of the farmer, and fpare the trouble of exportat.. .1. With the numbers that have entered thefe regions, government has been, cflablifhed, fimilar in its form to the conftitu- tion of JEngland, and the other royal govern- xnents. The civil, military, and ecclefiafti- cal officers arc chiefly fupportedby the crown,. UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 55 and the LeglQature meets on the other fide of the Lake. An Englifh church is ere(5led, and a miA fionary, who is the biihop*s commifTary, is in- duced into the cure — He vifits the Mohawk Indians, and has tranflated the gofpels and liturgy into that language. The objeft of the Britifh nation, is to peo- ple and cultivate this country, and to make it as perfeft a part of the empire as poffible. Dreading revolutions, they are cautious in receiving republicans from the States, and wifh to encourage hufbandm j and labourers only.— Clergymen, lawyers, phyficians, and fchool-mafters from the States, are nor th^ firft charafters who would be foftercd. Ma- ny congregations would have been formed,, and fchools opened, if the policy in this par- tioitar had been diirerent. An extenfive field is opened for men of letters in every profeffion. Deftitute of col- leges, academies and fchools, and confiding in the qualifications of the clergy ordained by the bifhops in the States, governor Simcoc wifhed to have introduced fuch, but an aft of the Britiili parliament difconcerted his defign. ^1 1*11 ,■ i. H J5 -1 », 4, TOUR THROUGH ff il! When the bidiops of England were- per- mitted to confecratc bifhops for the States, a claufe was inferted, in the aft palTed by par- liament for the purpofe, that nothing therein contained fhould enable fuch " bidiops or clergymen ordained by them, to exerclfe their fiinftions, within the limits of the na- tion/* This act was drawn by the arch- bi (hop of Canterbury, and has been obftinately ad- hered to. , , While the States are open to the clergy from England, and feme fince th^ peace and the above law, have been received into our parifhes ; the clergy born and ordained in the States are excluded from the parifl^ies in the provinces. ,., Some of the latter, by reafon of our popu- lar eledlions, have giyen way to thefe emi- grants from Europe, to the diftrefs of thefe American clergymen, and not for the greater good of our flocks. By means of this law, thefe new countries have been deftitute of minifters, and lament their e^cp-^fure to the inroads of miidelity and enthufufm. Wife dignitaries and able ftatefmen on both fides of the AtlAatici ch'*ifti^ minifters and UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 57 profcfTors agree, that the law is iUiberal, iin- chrifLian and unequal. Much complaint and clamour have arlfcn, but no remedy has been provided. — In the provinces, they fay that ckfgymen from Europe are not acquainted ftifficiently with the cuftom , manners, and habits of Americans, to ferve with them fuc- cefsfully. In the States, it is agreed that this lav/, and our unrcllrained mode of receiving clergymen from the Brinitli nation, is not confonant v/ith the opinions of our country as to aliens, and the pradice of the Europe- ans, in their refpeftive countrie:;, who retain all places of influence, honor, and profit in the hands of their own fons and citizens.— -^ I'he unity of the chriilian church, in heart,, faith aad devotion, is too far facrificed to State p '»-'-''!.*■' • ".■< ' . , ' ^ , ,-''■.■",,■' ■ - ' ' .' "' " I ^ ' " • ' [^ ..■■-,.. I -■■. . " The mutualattachmcnt of the clergy, and their Indian parifliioners to each other, ap- pears to be the refult of thofe reciprocal good offices, which bind generous fouls together, and of that particular attention which is paid to the natives. Inftances of this kind are often repeated. — A prieft, who had lived a long time among the Indians, Vv^as about to be removed to another cure — Intelligence of this reached the Indians, who fent an aged chief to him as a meffenger. Having deliv- ered his errand, and ufed many arguments to difFuade him from removing ; he afked for an ancient, valuable belt, which had been depofited with the priell for fafe cuftody, and was the teftimonial of an alliance between the natives and the adminiftration of that time : When the belt was delivered, the chief ex- .V UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 6y rp:)nd >it arc ploy- who indc- ition : liked, duty, r care .imining and recognizing it, fpread it around tlie feet of the pried, and afked him whei'.her lie could walk away from the affeftion and bonds of union which that belt reminded him cf? The belt was reliored to its cabinet, the prrcfl remained, and the Indians were fatisfied. In the church at Kingfton we faw an In- dian woman, wlio fat in an honorable place among the Englifli. She appeared very de- vout during divine frrvice, and very atten- tive to the /ermon. She was the relid: of the late Sir WiJJiam Johnfton, fuperintendant of Indian affairs, in the then province of New- York, and mother of feveral children by him; who are married to Englifhmen, and provid - ^d for by the crown. She is the fifter to the celebrated Gol. Brant, and has always been a faithful and ufeful friend in Indian affairs, while fhe refided in Johnfton hall, and fince her removal to Upper Canada. When Indian embafies arrived, flie was fent for, dined at governor Simcoc's and was treated with ref^eft by himfelf, his lady, and fiimily. When treaties or purchafes w^rc about to be made at Johnfton hall, ftie has often perfuaded the obftinate chiefs into -a F f>z A TOUR THROUGH compliance with die propofals for peace, or file of lands. She retains the habit of her country women, and is a Protellant. — During the life of Sir William, flie was atterxled with fplendor and refpeft, and fince the war, re- cieves a penfion and compenfation for loflts, for herfelf and her children. . , Soon after the arrival of the Proteftant bifhop, he vifiied the diocefe, and on his way accidentally pafled a party of Indians, who recognized their former miffionary, the prefent minifter of Kingflon, in compjiny with the bifhop, and followed them to the inn where they halted. The bidicp's atten- tion was drawn to the affeftionate meeting of the Indians, and their old friend. This led the Indians to afk, who the bifliop was ? Being informed, that he was the fpiritual guide, who was fent by the Great Father acrofs the water to preach the gofpel, and regulate the concerns of religion, they foii- cited the privilege of making a fpeech to him, which was done accordingly through the in- terpreter, in which they exprelfed their joy and gratitude to God, and their earthly guides who led him to this undertaking. The bifliop m return, addreflcd them, and agreeable im« i\.. UL PER AND LOWER CANADA. 63 prefllons were made on all fides, by fo fud- den and unexpected an interview. ^ The clergy of Montreal are proprietors of an ellate, near the Algonquin and Iroquois towns, and maintain the incumbent, whom we found to be a fenfible, polii:^,- aIJ«ib!e and hofpitable man. His affiftant was an accomr pliflied young Ecclefiaftic, who had efcaped from France fince the prefent wars^ and was one of the priefts in Lyons. He retreated by the way of Geneva into England, and fince h!s arrival in Canada, has devoted him* felf as a miflionary to the. fervice of the In- dians.. He has learned their language, and conftantly attends the duties of his funftioa with great punftuality. Grntitude to his Al- mighty deliverer appears to nave dicflatcd this meafure : He was a youth of good talents and education, adorned with many elegant en- dowments, acquired amongit the literati of of a polilhed city, in a once civilized coun- try. His parents were cad into prifon, and probably fell a facrifice to Jacobinifm and Roberlpiere. . * . sThe clergy of the church of Rome, are early infpired with an ardent defirc to be lent ©a diftaat milTions^ and to propagate the ■fl'!!i .,_^' .n #♦■ 64 A TOUR THROUGH gofpcl in every part of the work). They fa- crilicc eafc and affluence for thofc employ- ments, with great zeal and alacrity. From hence it is, that they have pLuited chriftiani- ty, in the moft diltant piirts of the globe. From their confequent fucceliful labors?, and greater experience, they are in due time, ad- vanced to die ftatijnof biihops and fuperiors. They are appoinf^d to their various err- ands by the biihop of the dioceie, and re- moved at his difcretion, and upon the deceaie of a pariih prieft, another is immediately placed in the cure. Jf his admini(tration is not acceptable, he is made the minifter of fome other place. Dlicords feldom break out with virulence between the clergy and their parilhioners, and great reverence is paid to the priellhood zs an office of divine appointment. Aaron when confecrared to the priellhood in the church of Ifreal, was not more r'svered, than the Catholic priefts are in all public per- forma ^ces. Their robes are made in imitation of thofe \ifed by the Jewilh priefts, and in commem- oration of the garments worn by the Saviour ;"^ m UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 65 of men. Different prayers are connccleJ with thefc vellments, and uled at the liiiie of putting them on or taking them otF. , So minutely are thefe devotions, and the inftruvftion or moral conne'fted with them at- tended to, that the glove or flipper, ufed at a lifhop's confecration, arc not put on, without praying, th it the pcrfon about to be elevated, may be blcflcd, as Jacob was bltiled by his fa- tJier, when he put on the hairy gloveS; and that his feet may be fliod with the preparation of tl.c gofpel of peace. Polltenef;, prudence, liberality, and dif- cretion lead the clergy of Canada, not to in- troduce the fubjecl of religion precipitately, betore men of other perfuafions. They enter upon fuch themes with caution and gravity. Carefully abftaining from them in public places, which are not devutcd to religion. • !l! Inftances are often repeated of their refpec^t to the Bridili government. V\'hen Prince William Henry, was publicly received in Montreal, many of tiiC clergy of the church of Rom.e were prefent, and paid i)im the rei- pcd of kneeling according to the ancient; F 2 «i 66 A TOUR. ruKOvatt cuftoms cf EiiropiP*''The prince, however^ politely reqaefted them to difpenle with that ceremony, and was obeyed. The Pi*oteftant bitliop, Defter Mountain, arrived with the title giirch him in England "of bifhop of Quebec. This was the titie alfo t)f thb fuperior in the Catholic church, who immediately direfted his ckrgy to addnels him in future, by his furname. Such cordi- ality is obferved, that when the late fUperin- tcnding biiliop of the provinces (bifliop In- glis) vifited Canada, he called upon the Ca- tholic clergy, and was received by them with 'great r^sfpe^ft. Upon leaving the provirxr^ he latnehted tlie d'efolate ilate of the Englifh church, and in a farewell fcrmon preached in Quebec^ . caufed the governor- general to wipe the tear from his eye.. The feafts,. faib, and different ceremonies and proeeflions of the Catholic church are yec obferved ; except, that by a late ordinance, the people are not compelled to attend all thoift which are appointed in the callendcr. This difpenfation w^'^ obtained, ^through the influence of theEngiiih and Proteftant party ; fciJt it -iias !iot prevented the. aceoftomed ob- UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 67 (. 1 ■! t ftrvance of thole feafons on the part of the people. The feftival of Corpus Chrifti, in comme- moration of the infticution of the facramenc of the Lord\s-Supper, is obferved as an high day in mid-fiimmefj znd a fermon is preach- ed on tranfubftantiatton. The great dignity e( the holy Excharift^ which is daily celc- brated, led the Catholic church to fet apart, one day in the year, in which the prayers, fclcfted fcripturcs, and fermons direfl the attention more particularly to^that ordinance. —They are not Clent on the theme at other dines. On that day. the ftrcet^ are adorned with branches from the trees, and proceflions jafs from the churches. Th requefted th^ gentleman, to re-colleft what he had faid? and to confider when thcfe things c-alfcd * fooleries' wei^ adopted,. and whrai: was their defign. Time they orisinated at ;i -ti'mc \Wl !'!' ifir H - 63 TOUR THROUGH when chrlftlans lived among heathens, whofe falfe worfhi'p was full of oilentation and fplen- •dor; that the chriilian procefTions were ex- hited in fuperior magnificence, and that fome duty of piety and morality, or fome import- ant fadl in the gofpel hiftory and the life of our Lord, was commemorated in every part, that our candor and moderation, were there- fore to be exhibited, when we commented upon the ufages of the Chatholic church. The Chief Juftice at the fame time, ufed the mod refpeftful language concerning the wifJom and piety of the Englifh church, and extolled the moderation and candor of the prefcnt bench of bifliops in England. Whatever fpecimens of bigotry, his hiftory of New- York, and other writings might formerly be fuppofed to exhibit, his demeanor in Canada, appears to have been that of a friend to univerlal tolera- tion, libercy, and forbearanctT, among pro- f;:;flbrs of every kind. Had he lived to have infpetSled his hiftory of New-York, it would not have appeared in its prefent form. Cer- tain .things there recorded have been invefti- gated, and ought to be correded, becaufe they are contraiy to known fails. The houfes of Canada, are well calculated for the purpofes of all feafons. Thofe of the rich furfac good roof. cafe UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 69 « rich have generaJly an half ftory beneath the iurface of the earth, a fecond ftory is of a good height, and a chird is formed in the roof, which is fteep, that the fnow may not remain long upon it. This middle Aovy is divicied into three large rooms in front, and thre« fmaller, with a kitchen in the rear. Two ftoves ar ^ ^he kitchen fire warm thefc apartments in fut -. a manner, that che inrier doors are open night and day, during the coldeft weather. A large ftove is uibally placed in the center of one of thefe rooms, which is at the 'entrance and end. This ftove guards the other parts of the houfc fro4n th J SgS^i^^' y^ .A<(/^fTOUR THROUGH J > religious offices, the corpfe is placed upon a ftage, which is afcended by fteps and fur- rounded by candles. Thefe ftages are painted black, and adorned with reprefentations of fculls and bones. Aromatic gums are burned in cenfers in honor of the dead, and to pre- vent infeftion or offence from putridity. . v»; < ' 5 f . » i >< ^^^'Crofles (land in the burial places as well as in the roads. Indeed they are feen in every diredion through the country in places of fepulture : Where cafualties, di/afters, or de- livercnces have taken place, thefe are fixed as monuments. They generally call the mind to devout ejaculations. In the grave yard^ in Montreal, are feveral marble monuments, made with urns ftanding upon pedeftals, and furrounded by iron rails. .^>. iV/' •l.i The monuments of religion reared for the dead are decent, but thofe for the benefit of the living, mull engrofs the unavoidable at- tention of travellers. Such have been already mentioned, in the defcription of the churches, colleges and monafteries. The uncommon privilege we were indulged with, in vifiting three nunneries, will afford an opportunity to gratify the curiofity of fuch, as have not tra« Tcllcd into Catholic countries. >> - . « UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 75 Admittance into thefe is gained with great difFjcuUy, only by the permit of the fuperior of the church, or his vicar in the neighbour- hood. Great neatnefs, order, convenience^ and induftry are exhibited in all of them.-— » The apartments are well finifhed and furnifh- cd, and the v/alls are decorated with paintings and piftures, drawn from hiftoric events re- corded in facred fcripture. Portraits of the foundrefles of the nunneries, and of the moft pious nuns, who have died in thefe inftitu- tions, are feen in their parlours ; — carvings of the crucifixion, as large as life, are alfo frequent. . . . * / r ^ r ^^ * ^ ,^^ o •> r. The cells of the nuns are fmall chambers, about twelve feet fquare, containing a bed for a fingle perfon, a bureau for clothing, a defk where devotions are attended, and two chairs^ A number of thefe chambers, with a window in each, and furnifhed in the lame manner, occupy the center of the buildings. 'n > - V i - >■ t -, * !• :r The habit of the Urfalines is black, and that of the order of St. Jofeph is white. They are uniform in fafhion and quality, and are not expenfive, while no emulation in drefs can take place. The veil is black gauze, and is placed before the face in their devQ-- m »»!». i 7^ A TOUR THROJGH tiors, in initation of the angels. The nuns cat ac one common table, and during their meals, a total filence is obfTved, while they attend to one who reads aloud from a fnuU pulpit, built for the purpofe. The Lady Abbels inftructs them in their religious duties every morning, and this employment, with their devotions, takes up an hour. She has an airiftant, who prefides in her abfence, and a feparate dejfk or pew is built for them, which k decorated with many ingeni. is carvings and reprefentations of angels. Hofpital rooms are alfo devoted to the fole ufes of the fick nuns, that they may be attended more con- veniently, and their manfion be preferved from infectious diforders. Perfons of confi- derabk diilinftion are taken to the nunneries, when fick, and the late bifhop died in one in Quebec. In that within- the city, we faw a? citizen of Vermont, who was v/oimded, as he was conveying a raft down the river St. Laurence. No patient need be better at- tended by the phyficians or nuns s and this was done gratis. -i- /o u i' --^ ^ ""^ ^^ '^»A gravity or fedatenefs, marks the coun- tenances of the nuns, which fome have con- ftrued into the gloom of difcontent. It ap- pears to be no morcj, than the effeft of axon- UPPER AND LOWER CA^KDA. 77 ftant rcferve, which is oblervable, among many other fefts of chriftians, increafed by the fingular drefs of the head, which covers the forehead,, and conceals part of the face. They appeared fufficiendy cheerful, and ex- preffcd the moll perfeft attachment to their mode of living and retirement. One of them obferved, that twenty years was, but as one day, fo pleafantly did time pafs with them. — She was born and educated in Bofton, in. Maffachufetts., - ■ • After fo circumffantial' a detail of the (late* of thefe countries, and its religions and po- licy, it may not be amifs to remark, that it cannot be furprifing, that the natives who receive the benefit of thefe regulations, who are conftantly amongft them, and are early taught their nature and^ defign, fliould be converts to chriftianity, and live in peace and friend fhip, with the dependants from the Eur- ropeans.. : » 'li The Indians are numerous in the trading: towns, after the feafon of hunting — and in ev- ery place are fcrupuloufly obfervant of all the- rites of the church. Several circumdances. eonfpire to produce this effeftj^ — fuch as. \ » ii K -■Jf^.K'^t 78 A TOUR, THROUGK ijt. Their marriages, which were encour- aged, and took place between the natives and original French fectlers. Thefe contrafts are folemnized in the churches. ^ tid. The reftraint caufcd by confedlan, ex- perience has proved, that this cuflom de- tefts crimes committed againft each other. The miflionaries lead the offending party to make reftitution to the injured. In this way, they arc protefted in their property and pcr- fons, from the fuperior power and art of Eu- ropeans, 3d, The benevolent fervices of the prlefls and nuns, who have taught the young fava- ges the principles and rituals of religion, very early in life. Thefe chaunt and rcfpond the fervice, and obferve the ceremonies of bow- ing, kneeling, and croffing themfelves,, with great punftuality*^ ■ 4th. The frequent and fplendid proceffions,, decorated temples and reprefentations to the eye, by paintings and carvings. Thefe fav- ages, habituated to the ufe of hieroglypliics,. are thus in a degree, compenfated for the want of a knowledge of letters, and the art ©f printing. The hiftoric fcripture paintings UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 7f in the Indian chapels, are excellent perform- ances, and make ferious imprefliops, upon a people ayerfe to ftudy. Religion appears to have been an objeft of the chief care of the firft and fucceeding inha- bitants. Early refervations ^nd purchafes of lands were devoted to the purpofes of piety forever, and to fecure fo defirable an objeft^ the clergy and miffionaries endured many hardships, and fubmitted to the pains of po- verty, while the lands were uncultivated.—- They devoted their labours and incomes to the qreding of churches and colleges very early. Velliges of their economy and good management arc conftant. The felf denials,, pious benefiftions, and fuccefsful exertions of the Catholic clergy to provide for the fer- vice of God, and the fupport of chriflianity,, exceed every Proteftant country in any other northern ftate, colony, or province^, in North. America. ii '1| The prefent government has alfo in all their locations of lands, reierved a due porporcion for pious ufes. As few oppreffions and cla- mours exift in fupport;ing religion, aspoflible^ confident with the prefent ftate of human af- fairs in bjoth the provinces* : . .. . ; i |i;:=f i^Mli MiiiiHll to A TOUR THROUGH! " The furface of thefe provinces is flat, and the foil good, being well wooded, and fur-, nilh'sd with many ftreams, rivers, and lakes. The river St. Laurence, cannot be exceed- f d in the endlefs variety of objefts, which are conneftcd witli it. It begins at the outlet of th^ Lake Ontario, feven hundred niiles from the fea, and is navigable for large vef- feis 3,s far as Montreal,, which is five hundred miles from the mouth, where it is ninety miles wide. The tide flows as far as Three Rivers^ eighty miles from Quebec. In its courfe, it forms an endlefs variety of bays, iflands^ and: harbors.. • A general fertility prevails onitsfhores, a? v/e advance into the country. It is evident tiiat many of the iflands, have been formed in the revolutions of the feafons, bv the al- tered courfes of the river, by ihe lodging of floating trees and fediment, which have col- lefted together during the floods. The bed of the river is left dry, in many places be- low Quebec. Its bottom is chiefly compofed of flat rocks in fuch places, and pilots are obliged very carefully to keep the channeK The conrtant current has worn away the bot- tom and fhores fo far^ aat the water has fub^ IjPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 3% fided below its ancient high wa,tei:mark, and the lower town of QLcibec, is luid to be built upon a bank, which was regulaiiy overiiowny when the country was firft difcovered by the Euiopeans^ » it:' xrt : ■ t% i.^ it .■ . ,g-- V»5^- ti..*-.; The pencil only, can give a ftranger any jufl idea,' of the entertaining water fccnes at the rapids. The principal, are thofe of Richlieu Montreal, La Chine, the Cafcade, Cedars Coto~du-Lac, and tliofe above Cornwailj in Upper Canada. . .- . vrvv.i'V:'^ lu^ t- • : ■■ \j The Richlieu rapids, are paffed without much difficulty. Thofe at Montreala prevent all further progrefs in large veffels. The iliore is fo bold and perj eridicular at this city, that veffeL are loacied ar;d unJoa^ied aloBg their fides, and v>'harves ajid piers are not wanted. The current, however, and contra- ry winds, make it necciHtry to warp veffels^ with the help of men, to thcfe ftations. At the Cafcade, is a rapid which is dan- gerous, and a great natural cu^'iofiiy. We paffed it with two xndians> in a bircu canoe, upon the ridge of the wave made by i\n cur- rent, when the fu^alleft error on the part of fub' I our boax-mea would have plunged us into 4 V«3' pap 11 A TOUR THROUGH whirlpool fome feet below us. Advancing near this place, the Indian in the ftern with a fmile, pointing to the fhore, expreffed that he wiilied we were on it — The linile was returned to animate him : He gave the fign, that no motion of the body muft: take place. ' Laying afide his !iat, and croffing himfelf, he fpoke to his companion in the bow ', both redoubled their exertions, and in a moment we pafTed all danger, and found ourfelv^s gliding down with the current. — - Curiofitv led us to land and view the dan- gerojs place, where we had paffed unhurt* Part of the Britifh army perifhed at this place, by following the pilot's boat in front, which from his (kill v/ent fafe, where /vind, compafs, and deep water, are not all the re- quifites for fuccefsfui navigation. A lock and canal convey boats now, without rifquing the dangers of the rapids. ; ii^ . > The Jfles of Montreal and Orleans, are the mod noted. The firft has been difcribed, and is made remarkable, by its mountain, which in Englifh, is the Roya! Mountain. The fecond is near Quebec: — It contains fc« Ycral villages, and is under high cultivation. > " ,>■ Ik'; ■Mi UPPER AND LOWER CANADxV. 8 J The rtie^dows and low lands, near the river and lake, yield good crops of grafs. The rivers which unite with the St» Lau- rence) are the Ofwagatchie, Ottawas^ Sorel, L' AfTumptionj St. Francois, and Three Ri^ vers. The firft fetclcments were formed upon the banks of the river and lakcs^ for the con- venience of water. Few farms in the lower province are cleared at any confidcrable dif- tancc from thefe waters. Many mill feats are upon thefe ftreams, and wind- mills arc frequent near the fliores where the waters arc fmooth. • The vegetation is rapid, and the fummer feafon fliort. The ice melts gradually by the influence of the warmer waters from the fouthwcft. In winter it is fomctimcs fud- denly broken in fome places for a few days, and floating and crouding together by the force of the current, and the confinement of a narrower part of the river below, it is con- gealed rogether : One of thefe coUedions of ice, is formed oppofite Montreal, and a road is cut through it with axes, before a palTagc can be obtained to the fouth (hore. * - ^ "• ,♦ .'.=* .- » i ¥ Bufincfs is conduced with facility, as re- fcJPS5S'SSnli9raEinj5j(3teKI»rS«.i" "fssijvBsn'' 84 -Vr A TOUR THROUGH .-'' gukr pofls pais into Canada, from the States, and through the provinces, as fkr as Halifax, :.' Newfpapers' are printed at Quebec, Mont- real, and Newark, in Upper Canada. They are carefully guarded againil every thing that niayexcite dilcontents among the inhabitants, or encourage aflaults upon religion and govern- ment.- 'Books are feldom printed, as the communication with England is conllant, and all literary produ6lions are obtained early, at ^ moderate price. No paper-mill has been erefted, and that article is imported from abroad. ^ '.-. . . •J The climate is more congenial to cpmmercc and agriculture, than is generally imagined. Accelfible to the ocean, and velTels of heavy burden coming up the St. Laurence, as far as Montreal, great amends are made to thofe, who do not refidc on the borders of the fea. It is evident to every honeft man, that it mud be the wiili of the people of the provinces, to be at peace with the people of the States. No fubftantial good could be gained, but much might be lo(t by the conteft. No ad- vantages could be derived to the States, as a government, by a war with Canada. Indi- viduals aduated by a thiifl for fpoil, and by I IF UPPER AND LOV/ER CANADA. S5 a love of diford'^r, have foiisht to embroil both, but hitherto without lucceis. It is a well known fadt, and openly confeffed, that the Biiclili nation does not derive a revenue from thoil^ provinces, which is equal to the fum, expefted by the crown in protecl.ing, governing, and providing for its adherents. When the Governor GefieraPs fpeech to the Indians appeared, by which they were in dan^ ger of being inftigated lo war, the wife and good were pained. When the proclamation of neutrality was feen, under the fignature of Prefident Wafhington, an univerfal joy w^as circulated- — Similar fenfations were e^thibited, when the treaty of peace was ratified. While thefc events took place, agents from the French republic, were actively exciting the people to infurred:ions, and the laws of the province were violated by fmugglers. A late trial has illucidated fa6ls, v/hich were well known before. Men from the States, who hud been received into the provinces as fub- jefts, permitted, to eftablifh themfelves in bufinefs, to repair their fortunes, and obtain credit, were too aftive in attempts to deftroy the government, to plunder public (lores, and make ipoil of the treafures of the Catho- lic church. H '111 86 A TOUR THROUGH Publications had been iffued through the news-papers in Philadelphia, to found the public opinion, as to a war w^ith Canada. — • Every mifreprefentation, as to the (late of the popular opinion was fought for, and great encouragement was given by many in the States, to fuch as were folicitous for convul- lions. At this tin^, the peopk of Canada, were not projefting trouble for the Stares, but as far as pofTible, encouraging a friendly intercourfe, and reciprocal good offices. \ The Catholic religion had been aflauhed, ind treafures devoted to pious ufes were feized upon in France : — Armies, and the leaders in the nev/ government, were dividing the pro- perty of temples, religious houfes, and afyl- ums for poverty and difeafc, and for the young and defcacelefs Reformation was the pretext: This flame was begun in a great degree in the States, and a few were ready to give it free courfe in the provinces. The clergy from France at this time took great pains with the Canadi^ atis, to lead them to fubordination to go- vernment, and to preferve themfelves from mafiacres and deftruftion. They favv that the Catholics were profcribed, and chat t!ic UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 87 property devoted to religious ufcs was doom- ed to fpoliucion. Hiltory can fcarcely aiford a more diabolical defign. — Religion is pro- teded by government, in the fame manner,, as in the States. The people are fatisfied with their religion : — It preferves order, and no fubftitute was offered ; we had no right to impofe another upon them. The revenues of the clergy were not excefllve, and they were benefaiftors to their flocks, — had pa- tiently endured poverty and hardfhips, until the lands were brought to their preient ftate of cultivation. They protect their aged pa- rents and other relations, maintain great hof- pitality, and are the patrons of the people. Such is their duty and intereft. So import- ant have the parilh priefts been, (and xt\Y others are now in Canada) in the efteem of the Britifli government, that great tender- nefs and refpe(5t have always been paid to them. It is an incontrovertible fad, that thofe perfons in the States, who wilhed to pillage the clergy of Canada, have to the utmoft of their power, injured th:i order of clergy in their own neighbourhoods. They do not fupport chriftianity, but are among its inveterate foes. The rancour againft the Catholics is moflE 88 A TOUR THROUGH feverc in thofe Scares, .^yherc they have few or no ProieRant minillers.-r — The people of the States are divided into parties about reJi- gion, and are not at unity among themftlves — Union, order, harmony, and profperity, univerfally extend among the Catholics, in, Canada. :>■ I It is well known, that the principles of li-. berty and law, which give dignity and hap- pineis to the States, are derived from the maxims adopted in the government of Eng- land. Thefe principles muft extend through the provinces. Legiflatures elefted by the the people, and trials by jury, put new pow- ers intoithe hands of the Canadians. Civil courts are regularly and frequently holden,— • no taxes are levied, and no extortions made. Madnefs, avaiice, bigotry,, and intolerance alone, could wirti to carry war into Canada. Commerce and colonization, under the ban- ners of peace, will give happinefs, wealth, and prolpcrity, to every pare of North-An)€rica,. ^- • + # 4 m '^-^ ?] Dat ^-^^ •^■•4S"i|S-^-^-4i-4*-i^"*t^-^ {^■•^•^■^r^^^^-^-^-^ LETTER ?ROM A GENTLEMAN TO HIS FRIEND,' Dacriptive of the Deferent Settlements, in thi. Pravince of UPPER CANADA. •!|.-!H^-^^.A^fi.^. I^i^^^^}^^^,^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A w., / v.. 1.0 I.I 1.25 t^ IIM I: i^ 1.4 IIM 1.6 '/] <^ /a ^ el .^ ^3 ^7 J' %V o 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14380 (716) 872-4503 ^J W.r 7#/'l I w ' INTRODUCTION. THE valuable information contained in the following Letter, and the very refpecta- ble character of the Author, lead the writer of the Tour, to fubjoin this alfo, that the Volume may be mote ufeful to the public. ^1 »0<'0<'0>^'0<'^ ^^ >0>0«>0'>0^>C»0->tQ< ALE T T E 11. Nevz-York, iQth Nov. 1794^ MY DEAR FRIEND., jiC^^-^INCE I had the pleafurc of writing? § ^ § to you from this city, in which 1 Yl^^M gave you a particular defcription of the lands in this State, and in the State of Pcnnfyivania, together with the mode of fet- tlement, and the manner in which they arc to be purchafed, I have made a tour through the province of Upper Canada, and ifliall en- deavour to give you a particular and impartial account of that country, fo far as I have tra- velled through it, with its laws, government, and commercial advantasjes. In mv letter from Albany, I mentioned that I went to that city by water, from thence I proceeded to Scheneftady, fifteen miks, by ftage. Sche- neftady is a handfomely fituaced little town, on the banks of the Mohawk river, inhabited moftly by Low-Dutch ; but from the appear- ance of the place, one would imagine it a defe.rted village, the houfc§ bein^ generally 54 A LETTER. old, fmallj and moflly fhut up, but iurround- cd by tiie fined flats of intervale land you can pofTibly imagine, which continue to the fource of that river. The defolate appear- ance of this town was accounted for to rne, by the current of Indian trade turning down the river St. Laurence, fince the revolution. It has, however, the profpecl of becoming a flourifhing plac", ere long, by the vafl in- creafe of the fettlements to the weft of it, the produce of which muft centre there.- At this place I took an open boat, nav'^ated by three men, in which I paffed to Lake Ontario, without any other interruption than two (hort portages, one at the little falls of half a mile, round which they are now cutting a canal ^ the other of one mile, at Fort Stanwix, about one hundred miles v/etl of Scheneftady; at which place, we leave the Mohawk river, aifri defcend the current to Ofwego, one hun- dred miles more to the weft, where the Bri- tifh hold a poft at the entrance of Lake Onta- rio, commanded by a captain, from whom I received every mark of civility and attention, A cuitora-houfe officer i& alfo ftationcd there, to prevent an illicit trade being carried on between the United States and the Britifh colonies. No merchandize in, nor furs out, are pcrmitcd to pafs tbi^ poft, without a paff- A LETTER 9S pert from the governor of Upper Canada ; but fettlcrs n:ioving into that province to re- fulf, are permitted indiicriminately to pafs with all urenfils of hufbandry, houfehold fur- niture, and {lores for their own confrmption. The high prices which hatters' fur at prefent command in the United States, is the only inducement I conceive for fmuggling paft that poft; for except a few articles imported from the Eaft-Indies, I found the retail ("hops at Kingfton and Niagara, felling as low, and many articles, particularly woolens, lower than in the city of Philadelphia. ' * From Ofwego, vcflels fail to Niagara, Kingfton, and any other port on the Lake ; but fettlers more frequently continue along the fouth fliore of the Lake to Niagara, about one hundred miles, in the fame open boats which bring them hither, as they are generally manned by themfelves. But finding a vefiel here ready to fail for Kingfton, I difmified my boatmen, and embarked in her for that place, about twelve hours fail. Kington is a new, but grovv^ing town, fit- 1 * This was ivnttcn prevhus to ike late Treaty* mna S6 A LETTER. uatc on the norrh-eaft corner of Lake On?a- no, where that Lake empties itfelf, and forms the river St. Laurence, the banks of which are thick fettled down to Lake St. Francois, where the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada are divided. This river is navigable for vcaFcIs of one hundred tons, and upwards, to Orvregatche, fe venty miles below Kingfton j but vefitls feldc m go down the river, as the fort wliich is at Kingfton, ferves as a depofic for all the public ftores, provifion, and mer- chandize for the upper poits. The laud immediately about Kingfton, is covered by valuable quarries of lime- ftone, and thro' all the fcttlements round it are plen- ty of thin valuable ftones, which are con fid* ered by the inhabitants rather as an acquifition than detriment to their plantations. The moft flouriftiing part of this fettlement is round the Bay of Kenty, the foil of v/hich is rich, eafy worked, and produces from, one to three crops, without any other cultivation than what is done by the iron tooth harrow, and yields from twenty to thirty buftiels of wheat to the acre ; — thofe lands are fome- what heavy timbered, having vaft quantities of the fugat maple, hickory and bafs wood, and in fome places, white pines of a furprif- mmm^mmt- f» A L E T T E R. /M ing height; but where the latter grows, thc.^ land is more fandy, and although it is warm, fweet land, it is not fo ft ny as the maple or * oak land. This Bay is 70 miles in length, beginning about twenty miles fouthvveft from , Kingfton, leaving a neck of land from two zo twelve miles wide, between it and the Lake, all of whi'-h is fettled, and round the whole Bay fo thick fettled, that their im- provements already meet, and form the ap- pearance of a beautiful old fettled country. This Bay and the creeks emptying into it,' abound in great quantities of wild fowl, and fifli of various kinds. , , ■: -». I J From Kingfton I proceeded to Niagat-a^ in a fchooner of upwards of one hundred tons burthen acrofs this little fea of frefti water; a fea it may juftly be called, for we were a great part of the time for three days out of fight of the land ; though paffages have been made in twenty hours 5 we enter the Niagara river betv/een the fort and the town called Newark, with a beautiful profpe6t of both. •r -Ff. The fort ftands in cJ commanding fituation, on a point formed by the junction of the river and lake, upon the eaft fide of the river, and is a regular fortification, in good repair. » and well garrifoned. ISllll pi 5» A LETTER. The mouth of this river, afFonIs a fafe and copious harbor, fufficiently large for half the Britifli navy. The town of Newark is fituate in lat. 43 north, on the wett banks of the river, ex- tending along the Lake about a mile, enjoy- ing in the fummer, the frelli breezes from this little fca, in almoft every diredion, plen- tifully fupplied with fi/h at all feafons of the year. In the winter here are caught by feines, quantities of white fifh, which feem to be peculiar to that river; they are generally from two to fix pounds weight, and are confider- ed the bed: fifh in the lakes; befidcs, there are fturgeon, bafs, and many other excellent fifh, in great plenty; falmon are taken in all the creeks round the Lake ; thefe varieties of fifh are not only cfleemed a luxury, but a great affiftance to new beginners in fupporting their families, many laying in a half a dozen barrels or more for their winters' ufe. The land about the town of Newark for many miles, though not fo good as the land further back, is well inhabited each way up- wards of fifty miles around. What gave me a more particular knowledge of this fet- tlemcntwas/oelng intimate with the Surveyor- :ing for A LETTER. > V SS General, a gentleman of liberal education, good information, and indefacigible in the dudes of his office, by which means, he has collcfted notes, from the different field -books of his deputies, of the foil, timber, and (Ireams, of all. that country -, and in fuch j^arts as I went over, I found his notes vcv'f CDrrccl, and by no means exaggerated. In niany places there is little more for the far- mer to do, tiian cut a fufficiency of timber to fence his fields, girdle or ring the remainder, and put in the harrow, for in few places only 13 it ncceffary to make ufe of the plough, till the fecond or third crop, there being little or no under brufh > yet in many places, there is beautiful white pine, oak, and black-walnut timber; fugar-wood which is alfo found here in great plenty, mixed #lth beach; hickory, and bal^ wood. v ,, At Newark re fides the Governor, whofc charaLler is well known in England, and is dcfi^rvedly held here in high eftimation. — Here are alfo moft of the principle officers of government, befides many other gentlemen of refpeftability, who form a very intelligent and agreeable fbciety. y. , . ', .^ ML iSi Befi^les Newark there are feveral important lOO A L E T T E R. ■ih 1) fituations in this part of the province, which bid fair to become places of conleqiience, the moft diftinguiihed of which are, tlie landincr places at each end of the portage, Fort Eric, the liead of Lake Ontario, apd York, called ly the natives^ Torento. ^ The lower landing or Queenfton, is about fevcnty miles up the river from Newark, where the veffcJs ciifcharge their cargoes, and take in furs colleded from three to one th(>uraqd five hundred, miles back} there liave I feen four veiTels of fixty and one luindr,cd tons burden unloading at the fame time, and fometimes not lefs than fixty wag- gons loaded in a day, which loads,they carry t-^ miics to the upper landing place or Chip-- awa creek, three miles pad the great falls. — ■ This portage is an increafing fource of wealth to the farmers for many miles round, vvho carry from tw-enty to thirty hundred weight, for which they get one Ihilling and eight pence N, York currency, per hundred weight, and load back withfurs, &c. — From Chipav^a the merchandize is tranfported in batteaux to Fort Erie, a. diftance of eighteen miles, and are fnipped there on board of veiTcls for De- troit and Michilimakinac. — -Detroit, I was told, v/as a pleafant country, though a low ■4.5Biu and grapes.-*-Orchards arc in great forward- • I pMi % \ Ml: 104 A LETTER. •nef's, for die age of the fcttlemcnt, fjme of which already bear fruit. Peaches, cher- ries, and currents are plenty among all the fjrfl. fettlers. — The farmers raife a great quan- tity of pork, without any other expcnce than a little Indian corn, for a few weeks previous to killing, anci often kill their hogs out of the woods, well fatted on nuts. In many places fait fprings have been difcovered, and iome of them already worked to fuch advan- tage that in all probability that article, which generally comes heavy in the interior part of a country, may in a lliort time be afforded Jicre as low as in many of the old fettled pla- ces in the United States. — - — Many valuable Iheams for v/ater works, run in every direc tion through this country 5 and upon fome of them are mill, built, which prove very lucra- tive to the ov/ners, particularly law-mills^ from the quantity of good timber and great demand of boards, as more buildings are go- ing on than carpenters and mafbns can be found to finifli : Stones being fcarce, bricks arc generally ufed in maibn work.. This fettlement v/as begun by a few dif- banded troops after the peace of 1783, and being but little known by the people of the United States,, who had imbibed an opinion. ALETTE R. 105 that it was entirely under contronl of the fnilitary, few emigrants Dent their courfe this way, till they were convinced of the civil government, being well eftablillied, and upoa a conftitution happily adapted to the minds of the people, fince which numbers of refpec- table inhabitants have coniC in from the dif- ferent States. Some of wliom have come in their waggons quite from North Carolina, buc as there is a fpace of country, for about 7a miles, bctv/een Niagara and the Genefee coun- try, where the road§ are not fuificicntly opea for waggons, they transport them from the- mouth of the river t^o Niagara in boats.— rr However, this abftrudion will probably be ibcn removed, when it v/iH be a picafant- jaunt to get into a carriage at Niagara, and^ drive to this city, which may be effedtei without difficulty,, in aboijt tw^o weeLs, par- ticularly by (Itighs in winter. — The mode of feet-lcment generdly purfued here, and whicb ftems bcft calculated to fave expcnce, is by two, three or more men coming on in the fammer, who throw up a log houfe each, put in a field of wheat, and return for their fami- lies,, which they bring on the following fpring,. by the rout before dtfcribed paft Oiwego» i£ by water;, but fuch as come by land, brings their families as f^r as the mouth, of Geuefeer II" :I06 A LETTER. river, there take boar, and fend their emit by land. This country from the reduelion till the year 1790, was included in the pro- vince of Quebec, and from the year 1774, i'nt civil adminllration was vefted in a Go- vernor and LegiOative Council, n that time beft adapted to the ideas of the people, who were moft entirely French, and from preju- dice, preferred that form of government, be- ing mofl analogous to what they had been- accuftomed to prior to the conqutft of Can- ada, but at the concliifion of the late diirca- tions between Great-Britain and Amcricay Upper Canada, then called the back, pofts, was held out as an affylum to thofe who had adhered to the unity of the Britiili empire, and who generally came under tht denoinin- ation of loyalifts. — From the peace to the year 1790, government delegated to land boards the power of graadng lands to any applicants^ if men of morality and fobrltty. In the year 179a, the wifdom of the BritiUi government, was eminently evinced in divi- ding that large couiitry, into two feparate govei:nmsnts, and granting to each a confti- tution, on the moft liberal and diflnterefted principles, a conftitution for freedom and the rights gf man, perhaps unequalled in the A LETTER. 107 hiftoric page, with all 'the advantages, enjoy- |ecl by the Britilh colonies in America pre-^ vious to the revolution, and with many addi- ' tions, the Britifh parliament having renounced j forever the right of taxation. — Here no man's [property for any caufe whatever, is taxed, direftly or indireCVIy ; the Britifh government moft generoufly paying for even the furvey- ing of lands, and the whole fupport of the civil eflablifhment. ^ . U' 11 You will naturally wonder, how with all thefe advantages this country has hitherto ef- caped the notice and keen obfervations of Land Specijlators, and the eulogiums of Pam- phleteers, too frequently the hired and ufe- ful affiftants of the former chk of men, but this rhave found is accounted for on the bcft lof principles. The Indians being undoubtedly the original proprietors of th^ foil, and it even has and continues to be policy of the [Britifh government to extiriguilli their right, by fair and equitable purchafes. Large pur- diafes of this kind has been made from time to time by government, as the population of* the country required, and as yet there is not a fingle inftance of diflfatisfaflion on the part of the Indians ; having thus liberally paid them for their ^aads, very advantageous terms n 't .'M I ill!; I ^1 1) i ! ■" 1 loS A^L E T T E r: are held out to aftual fectlers, (the only ciafs which at firft can enrich any country) who get a grant of two hundred acres each. Flow- ever tor the encouragement of men, com- manding the means of improving on a larger Icale, by proper application they get a hand- fome additional quantity. By this means the fubftantial farmer becomes the inhabitant, and large ♦■rafts to the detriment of any country, never lie wafte. '\ " ' , • . - ' Had I not refolved on examining minutely, and judging for myfelf, I fhould never have become acquainted with a country, which for richnefs of foil, agriculture and trade, in faft every thing that will conduce to make an in- duflrious man happy, yielding to none I have as yet {cen. Niagara IS at prefent the temporary feat of government, confiding of a governor, a le- giflative council, and houfe of affembly cho- fen by the people; here annually in the month of May, they meet for the purpofe of legiflation. — Members of the affembly arc chofen for four years, and have already fat three feflions. — In this time they have made many wholelome and neceflary laws.— Week- ly courts, called courts of requeft, are held A LETTER. Id/ Y Ciaifs ) who Flow^ CO 111- larger hand- ns the t, and untry, utely, r have ch for in faft an in- I have "eat of a le- ' cho- n the irpofe >]y arc dy fat made Veek- r heid throughout the province, by two juftices of the peace, who have cognizance of all debts under half a Joe ; there aYe alio diftrldl courts every three months, in which a judge pre- fides, and gives trial by a jury of twelve men, in fums not exceeding twenty- four pounds Y. currency^whofe judgment is unappealable, and all fums above that, are tried by a jury before the chief juftice and two aff:ciai:e judges, whcr make an annual circuit through the province ;' from them is an appeal to the governor and council.- — —The people have it fully in their pov/er to regulate all local matters which' refpeft their feveral towns, fuch as conlla-^ bles, path-mafters, and other town pfFicers,? in the fame manner as formerly in the other^ colonies, now United States of America. ' ■ > The militia in the feveral diftrifts have an annual meeting, and all males from the age of fi:xteen to forty-five are muftcred, except th\j Friends, Tunkers, and Menonifts, and thofe of tliat religious defcription, who are Exempted from bearing arms. In {hort> Sir, it would fwell a letter m too great a bulk, ta give a more minute account of the local laws that have been already made for the public good, fuffice it to fay, that with refpefl to that government and its laws, its adminiftra- tion is . conducted with every wifli and attentj ! ... lih m ii-o \ A^ L E T T E R. tion to render the fituation of thofe who may fettie under it comfortable and happy, berng neither land tax, quit-rent, or any other tax whatever, excepting the county rates, to be paid by the freeholders, for the regulation of their internal police, . The noble river St. Lairrence fupplies this country for an extent of two thoufand miles, "with commercial advantages inferior to none on this fide of the atlafttic.—— Conceive to yourfelf veffels of fix hundred tons burthen, unloading all kinds of Britifli goods at the port of Montreal, five hundred miles from the fea, and again receiving in return, furs from the interior parts of the country, as. far as the Miflifippi is known to the weftward, and the waters emptying into Lake Superior from the northward. — This town, when the banks of the difi^erent lakes and rivers are fettled by hufbandmen, which is at no diftant period, mufl: have a vaft increafc of trade, for without doubt all Britifii manufadures, thro* thefe vaft water communications, will come much cheaper, through the whole courfe of its windings, than can be afforded from any other quarter. Goods on importation being liable to no duty, which will undoubtedly give this country a vaft advantage over the ,-» A LETTER. Ill n^w fettlemenrs that I dcfcribed in my for- mer letters ', indeed nature points out this place as tlie emporium of trade for the people inhabiting both fides of thefe lakes and rivers emptying into them as far as they extend to the weft. From Montreal, hats called by the Canadians batteaux, containing twenty- five barrels bulk, are worked by four men to Kingfton, adiftanceofnigh two hundredmiles up the river in the courfe of fix or eight days, and agaia return in three, loaded with furs, pot-afli, and other produce of the coun- try.- Veflels, generally fchooners, receive the goods ^t Kingfton, and convey them in a fhort time, to the landing or Queenflon, be- low the great falls of Niagara, Here the portage gives employment to a number of teams in tranfporting them to Chipawa, as before described ;-r-they are again received at Fort Erie in veffels of the fame burthen as formerly, which navigate all Lake Erie, Hu- ron, and Michigan. The expences incurred during all this rout are comparatively trifling, as you will obfeive there is but one portage,, and that onfy ten miles in the courfe of this communication. And when one refie£ls on the temperate climate, rich foil, and othet natural advantages of this interior country,, jrou anticipate a great population i.n a fliQitt iii ]'■■■ -£I^ A L E T T E R. 1 ■ time. The ftrcights of Niagara, from its peculiar ficuation, being the channel througl\ which all the /^odiice of the vafb country above muft pals, is looked forward to as a place of the firft confequence, and where a farmer will at all times find a market for his produce, the tranfport being eafy from thence to the Atlantic. -3/^ — Here have I fcen ^ith amazement that rai"ned cataract, which exceeds every defcription I have ever heard ef it, but it would be idle in me to pretend to giv you an idea of it — It ftrikes the eye with more grandeur and fublimity than the pen can •convey. —^-Amongft many other natural curi- -ofitics, a fpring about two miles above thefe falls, attrafts the attention of the curious,— emitting a gas, or inflammable air, which, ^'hen confined in a pipe, and^a Same applied ^to it, will boil the water of a tea-kettle in 15 minutes:-- — Whctther this may hereafter be applied by machinery to ufeful purpofcs, time win determine, . - T.i4 Mr- *. ■'',• C It was lately dilcovered in clearing av/ay and burning the brulh under the bank of the ^river, to ere6l a mill, and was obf^rved after the brufh was confumed to burn for days to- gether, to the great aftonilliment pf the in- ihabitanrs* -^- ^ ^ *^-^^ ^Ai***<.' .A'^ v^ -* ■*- ~^> # LETT E U, IT J About 300 miles weft of this is Fort De- troit, fituate on the eaft fide of the ftreiglits,. between Lake Erie and Huron^ around which, a French fettlement was eftablilhed before the redudlion of the province, but attending more to the Indian trade than agriculture, made but little progrefs as farmers. The EnglilTi fct- tiements lately begun on the oppoiite Ihore are already in a higher ftatc of cultivation; however, the French have fine orchards, from which Niagara is at prefent fupplied with cyder and apples.- About one hundred miles weft from Detroit lies a valuable country on the "Abaters emptying' into the Miflifippi, now unhappily contefted by the United States and the natives of the foiL r^. -.^•i. ilU To the northward of Detroit, about three hundred and fifty miles, lies Fort Michili- mackinac, on an ifland between Lake Huron and Michigan, is about five miles round, and an entire bed c" g> :apable tion, but moft remarkable for being the ge- neral depot and grand rendezvous of ail the Indian traders^ y/ho meet in the month of June from every quarter, deliver their furs and receive their outfits for the enfuingyear. — Spanifh fettlements many miles down the MifTifippi are fupplied with Britilli gpods^ Kj 114 A L E T T E R^ through this channel, to much greater ad- vantage than from New-Orleans, where the rapids of the MifTifippi oppofe almoft unfur- rhountable difficulties in afcending it, • •* — This fort, the forts of Detroit, Niagara, and Ofwego, fell within the United States, when the lines of feparation were drawn, at the treaty of peace, in the year 1783 : Fore ■ Miami, which was built by the Britifli lately, is alfo within thofe lines. Previous to that peace, ftores of depofit had been occupied at the foot of the Miami rapids, where the Fort now ftands, and the" annual prefents to the Indians, which they have long been in the habits of receiving from the Britifli govern* ment, were there iflfued. This place was prudently chofen for that purpofe, in order to prevent th^^ Indians from coming through the fettlement, crouding about and mixing with the troops at Detroit, where the too frequent ufe of fpiritous liquors would have occafioned numerous quarrels and accidentsj which might have terminated fatal to that friendly intercourfe and good underftanding which has ever prevailed between the Englilh and the natives of America. - -t. \ ? Hitherto have I faid little refpetfling the A LETTER. ii'5 aborigines of this country : — Various are the opinions entertained by different people, and different hiftorians have riiked conjedlures how this continent was originally peopled ^ their- own ideas of it are not Iffs curious than ex- traordinary. They do not believe, nor have they the imalleft vcftige of traditional me-, iTiorial to induce them to believe, but that th"y are a diftinft race of men from the whites, fome of the mod intelligent amongft them will at thiij day relate in detail the natural and original hiftory of themfelves and the conti^ nent they live upon. They fully believe in a good and evil fpirit, and in a future ftatc of rewards and punifhments, and haVe ceruin times in the year for their particular modes of worfliip, when they more generally endeavor to appeafe and avert the V/rath of the bad, than invoke the Good Spirit, to which, how- ever, after favorable crops, a good hunt, or fuccefs in war, they in a fervent manner, rec- tum thanks. — They fay that the face of the globe was firft covered with one great water, in which the turtle was the principal inhabi- tant. That the Great Spirit caufed this tur- tle to grow to fuch a fiz,e that the waters could no longer float it, and in confequence, it became ftationary, continuing to grow until the mofs and rubbifli colleding on his I, ill Mi I w a- :• -? w ij6 A LETTER, back, became a foil, and fliot forth Iierbrr, bufhcs, anc^ at length trees, and now forms this great ifl::nd (as they term if) upon which they were created a diftinft race of men, and jth.it the Great Spirit made, after them, every kind of beafls and birds of the foreft, for their food and ufe, (from the firfl: twelve of which they took the names of thcirr twelve tribes) and that thefe are as diiFcrenc in- their kind, from thofe given by the Great Spirit to the v^hite people, for their ufe, as they are them- felrcs from us. That they encreafed in ftrength and numbers, till the white people came amongft them, and introduced their Irabits, with the ufe of ftrong drink, to which they juftly impute their degeneracy^-, ^ -. *•'■ ' ' '' When the teellng minJ reflects on the for- mer fituation of thefe credulous people; the various deception praAifed on them under the the mafl< of friendship, the artlefs, and faith- ful attachment they bear to the wliite people where they are treated with, upon feeming principles of juftice and candor, it rauft truly fympathize vvith them in their prefent glqoaiy *VO&^f?ts, . t\-- 4. :•;;}.-' This people who were two centuries ago- jpoQeffed of the. whpk of this vaft continent. A L E T T E R. J^7 afTording thorn fpontaneoufly every comfI'>rt of life, wiihouc nvah in the ei\]oyf;ient of ir^ now driven back (Icp by ftep, Co the laft fpoc of their fertile foil, and that conteftcd. Con- tefted by the very people whom they have been led to confiJer, as tfieir brothers, fa- thers and proteflors. — Prejudice from educa- tion, habit, and particular fituations in life ■may warp the minds of the beft of men, but a virtuous and penetrating mind, will always fftimate in a proper degree, the relation and ties they have a claim to on us, if it is only from ourfuperior cultivation of miind and manners. Would it not therefore argue a greater degree of virtue, and redound more to the honor of humanity, for Chrif{ian§, bordering on the remains of their country, to turn their atten- tion to the civilization of thefe people, than to endeavour by art and arms to extirpate them from the face of the country, which they conceive to have been given by the Great Spirit to them alone. It is idle to fay that people of their quick ideas, and lively imagination, arc incapable of civilization, for where education, and a proper attention to their morals has been beftowed, there are proofs to the contrary. -—Inftance Jos. Brant a full blooded Indian, who having received an ^arly edueation, though refiding (till witl\ i trS A L E T T E Rr. the Indians, is much the gentleman, eafy ii^ his manners^ mild and friendly in his diipo- fition, regular and methodical in his whole dep^rtUientv and has by hi^ good examples, brought many of his nation irito a regular fyf- tem of hufbandry, aiid a decent way of living in their feniilies^ , . ;: - •^^''; l--^^ \;^ Thus have I now as <^eneral]y made you acquainted wi^h this great country, as cor- redly as, my (hort flay in it would admit of: but I cannot conclude this without giving you a piece of information equally new to every body here as to me. - ^ r -^' . For many years pad adventurers have at- tempted without fuccefs to crofs to the Pa- cific Ocean. The honor of this arduous tafk; was left to a Mr. Alexander Mac Kenzie, a partner in the north-well fur company, who lately returned by the way of the lakes, hav- ing fully accomplifhed the objqft of his un^ dertaking in the courfe of iwo years, by tra- verfing the continent of America to the north- ward of weft, over vaft mountains covered with ice, which obliged him to make new €anoes, wherever he had the waters in his favour. On his arrival on this coaft, ftvtn wcck^ fail from Canton in China, and 2 de- A L E T T E R. 119 gTees to the north of Nootka Sound, he found the Indians vvithout nre-aiin-, but furniihcd with fome clothing and ornaments, princi- pally Spanifh manufadlure. The Indians accompanying him were not underllood by thofe on that coafl, and appeared to be per- fedl ftrangers to one another. It was with difficulty he could reconcile them to him as a white man, on account, as he underilood, of fome injury given them by people of his co- lour a few days before that time. Thefe are luppofed to have been the Americans from the port of New-York, who had touched there in their trade with China. »r; v< Lve at- !ie Pa- us talk: * izie, a ', who , hav- lis un^ by tra- north- overed :e new in his kvtii 1 2 de- After remaining a few days and making the neceflary obfervations, he returned and bro't dlomy :vith him fome valuable fkins of the fea otter, and other natural curiofities, pe- culiar to that coaft; but as the gentleman himfelf has it in idea to go rooii to London, I have little doubt but he will meet with the reward due to his exertions, and give to the world an account of the wild and uninhabited tracfl he traverlcu. • .-.v 1- VV" "• w © ^ ! M^r- , FINIS. ^ 1 . ^ , '■'- * - ■