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'895- 143868 I Entered, according to the Act of the I'arlian.er.t of J-.nada. i„ the vear o„p UHice of the Minister of Ajfriculture, at Ottawa (.CONTENTS. Chai-ter I. ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHORE. Quel>ee — (ioing on I oard — Fog — Rimouski — Sunday — Magdalen [stand and the Bird Rocks — Newfoundland — Sunset at sea — St. Pierre -Icel>ergs - Whales — Cape Race— Out on the Atlantic — Surrounded with broken ice— 'J'lie Banks — Storniy weather — liiscomforts of a storm— Storm subsides — Sunshine — A pleasant change — Last Sunday on hoard — Tory Island — Derryvefiugh Mountains — Northern Ireland — Malin Head — Lough Foyle — Moville— Mull of (ialloway — Isle of Man — Approach to Liverpool — The Mersey —A lively scene —Lauding stage — Customs otticials — Liverpool — The docks — Yorksiiire and Lancashire Railway — Manchester — Respect paiil to tiie memory of great men - - - - 19 Chapter II. A RUN INTO YORKSHIRE AND A TRAMP OVER A MOOR. Darwen— Manufacturing lords of England— Their homes — Liincashire — Two enjoyable things— Blackbui'ii — The Craven district — Skip- ton — Skipton Casile — A coacli ride — Rylstone Fell and Norton Tower -White doe of Rylstone— The driver's yarn— Gra.ssington — Stone walls— Yorkshire village — A walk along tiie Wharle — Kilnsey -Teiinants' Arms — A good night's rest — An early break- fast — Kilnsey Crags — Kilnsey Moor — Sheep-runs — Not much beauty in a moor — Danger in traversing them — Malham Tarn and Cove — A dangerous ilescent — ^Darwen Moor — A walk over it — Hollinsiiead Hall — Destroyed by Cromwell — Walk through a down-pour — A mad bull wo did not see — A sorry plight 45 Chapter III. BRISTOL AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. The Black Countrj- — Hsisty glimpses — Arrival — Bristol — Its antiquity — OKI churches — St. Weiburgh and Rev. John Wesley — St Mary RedcIiffe^A rib of the dun cow — Sir William Penn — Muniment mtmmm IV CONTEXTS. !-{<)c>iii ( 'liiitterton — Wesley Chii])el — Fi'ieiids' Friars" Meetiiij;- lioiise -.lolm Storr Fry — I'lililic l)uiltliii;.;s - IJristol milk — MiiUers Oi'plianages — UniiKloii Hill — Clifton Down Siiilston Hoiise-- Zoological (iardens— A gii\Ui\Jr/( - Iti'dlaml (lieen and tiie Wish ing Steps— Neiueen's baths — The swim- ming batii -Piimj)rooni — Dickens' descniption of it — Hospitals- Sam. Weller's opinion of tiie water — Old Roman baths - The Abbev CMiuich— Its history 123 (J< )NTEX'I'S. (.'MAI'TKI! VII. Ii()Xi)()X. Aiiiv (lilt Paddiiii^toii -UiidurgirmiKl lliiil — Looking iiftor luggage — i'lio reali/.itioii i)f a loiig-istiiiglil wish not always satisfai;tory — London too vast for desi;iii)tion -Initiatory stroll— New (ieneral Post OHiji! -Cliartfr-house -Newgate — Kind re(;e[)tion —Mansion House — F^onihai'd Street - l",,ist India House - l*]xeliange -— Crowded streets - lianU of England - Tower of London : Its anti(juity and interesting history — Beaucliainp Tower — Place of execution —White Tower -Sir Waltei' Ualeigli— dewel Ho\ise — St. Peter's ('ha))el— Tower Hill— The Monunieiit — London Bridge — Billingsgate Kishinarket — Custom House— St. Katharine and London Docks- The Tunnel — A sail on tlie Thames— Tlio Kin- liankinent -Westminster Ai)bey — Its shrines and monuments — Cluipel of Henry Vll. — St. Kdward's (Jliapel — Coionation Chair and Stone? of Scone — Poets" Corner - Rei'edos —LJ|)per and L')wer Dais— Tiu' Pulpit —Westminster Hall— Houses of Piirliament — A 'liusride — Britisii .Museuiu — Zoological (iarileus — Fleet Street — Molt Court — Ued Lion Court— Mitre Court -Church of St. Bride's — Temi)le Bar as it appeared hefore its removal — The Strand — New Courts of Justice — The Lanes —Somerset House — Trafalgar Stjnare — National ( Jallery — The Hay-market — Pall .Mall — Clul) land — Marlborough House — St. .lames" S(puire — Piccadilly — Leicester S(|uare — Di'ury Lane Theatre — Lincoln- Inn-Fields — St. .lames' Park -Creen Park — Hyde Park — Albert .Memorial — Albert Hall — South KiMisington Museum — Kew (iardens- St. Paul's Catheilral — Its history — (luild Hall— Old Church of All Hallows — Paternoster Row — Covent (Jardeu Market — Fetter Lane — Bethnal (Jreen Museum and Prince of Wales exhibit of Indian jiresents — Visit Brompton, Chatham and Rochester —Dickens-land — Closing I'etlect ions I.3S Cn.MTKK Vlir. A DAY AT WINDSOR. ^■■i'> The .start — The indispensable tinibrella — Throngs at the station — Suburban glimpses — The open counti'y — Twickenham —Windsor Castle —Huri-y away to the park — Its extent and beauty— An iunneuse crowd — Difficulty of getting placed — A crush -Fortune favours us — A wonderful sight — The Sliah's entry into London a few days before — Vast crowd — Amusing scenes — A|)proacli of the t^ueen — Royal salute— Patriotic; cheers -Queen's carriage ])auses — The Shah on a white Aiab, takes his ))osition at its side -The appearance of Hei- Majesty, and of tlie Shah -The march p;ist — A giillaut show — The Sliah presents a sword to the Duke of Cambridge— An effort to get a closer look at Her Majesty — We are iuiccesstui — Leaving the grounds — Return to the city - - - 21' mmmim VI oontf:nts. Chai'TKk IX. A DAY AT IFAMl'TON OOl'RT. I.i€g- weary — Older hreakfast and retiie — Next niorninj; - Hail a liansoin aiiy the west side -'i"iie great hall — Our ancestors— Do not always eai'e to recall tiiem — Our progenitors (juite as respectable —Not nnich romance aliout their times — 'I'oo recent — Size of the liall — lts roof and windows — Walls hung with tapestry — Mail-elatl figures — Ancient ai'ius, bainiers, etc. — Clock Court — State apartments — Allegorical devices — Ornamental ])anel.'i — King's ]iresence chambei' — Battle scenes — Number of ])iclui'es — Place full of paintings by the i)est Masters — A ti'cat to lovers of art — A generous gift - i'hijoyed by all classes State beds used by William and Mary, and (ieoige 11. — Uajjhael's cartoons (iilibons' carvings — Wolsey's fall -A turn- ing-point in English history — A ramble through the grounds — Laid out by London and Wise —The fountain and gold-fish — The canal and its fish — A beautiful lesort whicii is appreciated — Bushy Park — Chestnut trees -Their beauty— House in which William IV. lived — Palace garden — The NN'ilderne.ss and its walks — A favourite trysting-j)laee — (^)ueen Mary's gai'den - <,>ueen Mary's walk — 'i'he celebrated giapevine and oranges —Hampton Court a home for reduced families .\ glance at its histoiy— Its founder and his magnificence -
  • ible — Chailcs 1. and his Queen Henrietta — Oliver Cromwell — His chai'acter- Mrs. Claypole's death — His last days — A cmious phase of human nature — Cromwell and (leorge Fox (Cromwell's eir anil (iuy's Towim' Visitors ailmil ted hy t i<'leth"s Vi.sit — Scott's description -Owes its ruin to Cromwell -lUai^klow Hill — Piers (Javest on —(iuy's Clill' -Olil Saxon mill IJeauty of the Clill — The storv of .Sir(;uv — (Irand view fi'om tiic Clill' --( iuv's ('ave Chai'tki; XI. S r RAT l'( ) R D ( ) N - .\ V ( ) X . .Shakespeare Inn — An ancient, hostel Old water liutt — Tlie town — The Avon and the bridges — Shakcs])e;ire's hiitiiplace — ■ The anticjuity of the place -.Of respectable jiarentage — N'aried foi'- tunes of the old liouse — National ])ropei'tv now — The kitchen — The tirej)lace and ingle nook — Tlie sitting-room — Stone tloors — The l)iith-rooiu — As it oni'c ap])eiii'ed— Ceiling and walls covered with autogra])lis -Portrait of the jioet — Th(! Museum and its contents -The I'ai'ish Church Tlie Avenue —As seen from the river — Interior of the Church— The graves — Altar-tond)s -'i'he old register — .Attend sei-vice — .Sunday diinier — Promotion — New Place — Tlie grounds and mulbei'ry tree — Social position of Shake- speare — The old well — -A drink from the bucket — (Juild Chapel — Hall wliei'c he was educated — Oil < i rammer School — Its founda- tion— Sliakespeare .Memorial -"The Red Horsi^ Inn" -Washing- ton living's room —The Market-place and Fountain The gift of an American — Shottery — .\nne Hatliaway's cottage - The living-room —Mrs. Marker the last descendant of tlie Hathaways — Shakespeare's marriage — The visitors" book — Look through it — Old bedlinen— Tiie gardini Presented with a l)ou(piet — (Jlopton House — Charlecote— Sir Thomas Lucy — The deer-stealing story - 307 V'lll CONTENTS. ClIAl'TKll Xll. ClIKSTKK It.s anti(juity — 0('(.'uj)ii'(l hy tlio KoiiiaiiH— Its varied liistory— 'J'lie (!iU'l(U>iii has lioeii lii'M l>y tlic Kii;,'li-ili ('rowii since l'2'M -'\hii title vcstcil ill liu' reij^'iiiiii^ inoiiiiicli's clilc-sl won as I'riiice of Wales — .\ place of iiiiportaiice in Saxmi lillu^s— Kicliaid II. a prisoner in Chester ("astle in KV.I!) - N'isitcd hy kiiiL's- Hesies^eil liy the Parliament iriaiis—( iallant defence — Haidcil liy the Fenians in I8()7 — A walled city— The pla(;e for anlii(iiaiiaiis — ( irosveiioi' Hotel — A walk round the wall -Its heiyht and width at the top — -A line proinenaile— Tiie Catiiep Lloyd's Palace -Trinity ( 'hurcli— Stanley Palace— The Castle — Julius Ca'sai''s Tower King .lames here — Edgar's Tavern— An old hoii II. I eceive( I tl le SaiMaiuent A )k along Ka^tgate Street — The Cathedral ami its liistory — The carved oak taher- nacles — Ancient arches Wol sev s co; ;it of 'I'll Lady Chapel — Cloisters ami refectory — Stone ])ul])it — King's School —St. onn s tJiurcn am I historv — The ite hind —Interesting remains — Trouhle with the towers — Interior — The Lord's Siip])er, line ])aintiii -(Jrosveiior Park — Statue of the Mi'fciuis of Westiniiist(M' — " Rilly IIolii)y"s Well" — A sail up the Dee Fine .loll I'oiize statue ( s('enerv — if Hi the Moots r The Park - Katon Hall — ugh Lu))us — \ isitors entrance A li ne eipiestrian group in bronze— A magu^iticent place — Our walk through — Full of tine pictures, sculpture, etc. — Nolile generosity Ls ipj) iated 329 Chai'tkr xin. FROM LONDON TO GLASGOW. Purchasing souvenirs — The dear ones at home — Kuston Station — Primrose >Iill Tunnel — " Harrow on tlu; Hill "--Watforil Tunnel — The River Cade — Cowper's liirthplace— Dunstable l.'liiltera Hills — Leightoii Ruzzard — Oliiey — (ireyhiirst Park, etc. — Weeilou — ^Little IJriiigton, the home of (Jeorgo Washington's ancestors —Sir W. Catesby — The (iunpowder Plot — The hill separating the Avon from the Ouse and Nen — Rugby -Combe Abbej'— Coventry — (Jodiva — Ririniiighani — Manchester -I'reston — Garstang — Lancaster and its Castle — Viaduct across the Lnne coxTExrs. IX — Kiiiliiiiikiiicnt and cultiiij.'s at Tcltay ami Oilon — ('iiilisli-— 'I'lie liveis KcU'ii, Caldi'W anil Pettfiil '1 Ik; <»lil CaMlle — The sfcnc of many .striijL,'j^lt's — (irctna (iii'en -- Hiinaway inatclu's — Scotcii maiiiaycs Mntt-r ScutlamI — 'I'lic Saik— A (lisa.stiouH liat tii' --'i'lic horcU'i'-iand -Mos.s troojicrs and liKnlt'i' rohhiis — 'ruwertt -Lock- crlif, wlicrc tlic last f^fcat hattlc of the clans was foiii^lit - Lady Lockt'ilif — SyminirtDU du nut inn — Mot lu'iwcll d unction - Uot li- well l!lidi'c--'l!.)tii\vcll Castle - . . - ;{,"),"> Chai'tek XT v. GLASGOW. lii'st city ill Scotland — A gruat connncrcial centre Toliaceo Lords" — (ieoij^'e S(|naro Scott's Mt)nunK'nt — liionze statues of Sir dolm Mooreanil Lord Clyde, eti:. — Ar;,'yle Street At the I'nd of theTroniiate linchanan Street —Statiit! of the Duke of Wel- lington — 'i'lu! old College — Famous men edu('ati'd here Thoiiias Cam])liell — Darn ey's cottage — The Cathedral -Passed through sloriny times — Scotl"s description of one of the tumults— The (JrVjit "An i'.needote of Cromwell llridge of Sighs — The Necrop- olis — Statue of J(dMi Knox — A line view — West Knd I'ai-k— The l>rooinielaw — A great work — lii'ooniielaw IJridge — (ilasgow (ireen antratl»-lie-- (ilcnbuckie —Where Hoi) Roy is bui'ied — Locliearnhead and the Iiracs of Hahjuhidder— Loch Earn — Henvoirlich — Neish Island — "Spout Hollo"'— ivuchill w.iter — Village of Comre -Sir David Dnndas and his obelisk — Sir David Paird's Monimient — Cr'ett' — Olen of Kincardine and Castle — Village of Auciitcrarder— Scene of Disruption of tiie Scottisli Chur. h, 1843 — Falkirk — Callander House — "(Iraham's Dyke ''—Linlithgow — An historical place — Destroyed by Hawlev. 1746— River Aven — Niddry Castle — Robert PoUok- ■ - ' ■ - - - - 423 CONTENTS. XI ChaI'TKR XVII. EDINBURGH. Met an old friend— HiL'li Street — "The Tfeart of Midlotliian "' — Tron Cliureli- Higli Street and tlie Canonj^ate — Connect Holvi'ood ;ind the Castle — Closes a stiiking feature peculiar to Aiild Heekie- Human hives— Anchor Close and Hoi)ert Hums— Sniellie the printer — "The Croehallan Fencihles" — St. (Jiles' Church — A checkeretl histoiy — John Knox —The Tolhooth and Haddo"s Hole — Jenny (ieddes and her stool — Cross of Edinliurgh — A place of execution — Parliament House and S(piare — Advocates and Signet Lihrai'ies — Lawn Market — (!eorge IV. ".s Hridge — Hank of Scot- land — Johnny Dowie's Tavern — I^axter's Close— Lady S(air"s Close — Riddle's Close — Boswell and Dr. Johnson--Free Church Assend)ly Hall — Dr. tJuthrie's Ragged School— House of Allan Ramsay — Town house of the Duke of Cordon — Birthplace of Sii- David Baird—'l'lu' Castle Ks])lanade— Castle Hill — Public execu- tions — Duke of York's Monument —The Castle — Descrihed hy Burns — Half-Moon Battery — Porttullis (!ate~-'i'lic Crown Room —Old Sally-j)ort — Claverhouse — Old Palace Yard — Regalia of Scottish Royalty — Queen Mary's Room — Birthplace of James VL — ('l)apel of (j)ueen Margaret — Mons Meg — Varied fortunes of the Castle — Curious old house 'I'he West How— OM (Irass Market — A place of execution — (,'a|)tain Porteous — Place wliere the gihliet stood -Hirthi)lace of Lord Brougham and Sir Walter Scott- The scene of Burke and Hare's operations — The Nether l?ow -Pictur- esipie old houses — Past scenes on the Canongate— Drawbacks — " (iardy loo'' — Dr. Johnson's visit — " I smell you in the dark" — Allan Ramsay's book-sho))— Paisley Close — A singular incident — House of John Knox— St. John Street — Moray House -(!romwell hud his quarters in it — (lanongate Tolbooth and Court-iiouse — Churehyai'd of Canongale Chui'ch — Celebrated nu'U interred heie — 'i'he S(pmre in front of Holyrood, and Fountain — <,)ue<'n Mary's apartments — I'^rccteil by Janu's \'. - 'I'iie I'icture .>haii t. r Ii Tlu? Room in which Tain and Siiitcu' .lohnny met — The old cup- Bii .f Ayr"— Old Fort of Ayr Take steamer for.tiieenock -Island of Arr; Holy Island -King's Cross Point and l>riue — From Lamlash tc lirodick (ioatfell — llrodick (asile- -Millport — Peaks of Arran- Rot lesay ai id t'astle — Dun ion (lasllc rrive at (ir''eiiocl tine trip — (Jo in (juust of West Kirk -" Highland Mary's" grave 504 CONTENTS. XUl Chai'Tkk XX. A RUN THKOUGH IKELANI). Entering the liiuhour of IJelfast — A I'oiigli night — A sj)ei;tacle of (lisconifort anil (listless — Castle of (,'airiokftigns — William III. landed hei-e -Hcjoicing of the jjeople lin]jeiial Hotel -A line city- iiotanie (iardens Important manufactures -On the road Uundalk — Last place an Irish monarch icsided -Castle of liell- ingham -Droghccla — Remains of Monasterl)oice — Ci'omwell twice repulsed at Droglieda— His cruelty made his name execiahle to the Irish jjcople — The hattle of the Boynt; - Macaulay's ilescrip- tion Viaduct across tlie l>ovne - Morrington and the Duke of Wellington — Where St. l^itrick landed — Hallygarth Castle au>llege An old harj) of Rrian Horoiudie— Parliament House -Royal l<]xchange Castle of |)ul)lin- St. I'at ricks Cathe- dial -Dean Swift — Sackville Street — \\ heie I'liomas Moore was horn — I'hu'uix i'ark — Wellington Testimonial — Duhlin, a tine hut not prosperous city -Leave for Killarney ~Hos})ilal of Kilmaine- haui Clandalkiu — Naas, the jilaee of "the elders" — l>og of Allen — " T'lie Curragh '"— (,'ha])el of St. Ihidget — Round tower.s — iJevil's Bit .Mountains Mallow —Kantuik - Town of Killarney — Not a ])retty place —.Market-day —A motley crowd -N'ictoria Hotel —Demesne of Kinmare 'IMie jaunting-car The low -hacked car — Set oil' foi' the (hij) of l)unloe--x\ wet rain "Its oidy a lira]) o" a shower"' -Old ruins of Rallis" Castle Kate Keariu'ys cottage Surrounded hy lieggars .-\ ]iersistent crew -Horse "wouldn't liuilge alia walk " Reach the entrance to the (hip. where we lind a pony iu waiting See a chance of esca])e -Rut it fails The |)ass lined with heggars The echo fake JJlind tiddler -(ioat's milk and mountain dew Irish girls, their wiles 'I'he (iap of Dunloe .Striking features -The Lor dances through it Small lakes I'ike Rock Reak of the IMu'jtle .Mountain iilack Lough - (iuidc's story al)out St. Patrick and the last "shuake"- - View from the iiead of the (hi)) .Macgilliciuldy Rei'ks The Rlaek Valley— Lord Ih'andon"s cottage (ilad to takt; to the hoat - Have lun(^h Pass down the first lake Fine scenery -The moun- tains — ("arrautus Hill Tiie islands Tlie Long Range Legends -The Eagle"s Xest The e;lioes Moore's description The ".Meeting of the Waters"- Old Weir Bridge and the ra))ids — .\luekross, or second lake -Mucki'oss .Ahhey Lower lake- Iiniisfallen — Rose Island .A lieautiful jilace Tiit! heggars a nuisance - Leave Killarney My ride from Knocklong to (ilenitVy — A beautiful situation -Old town of Tipiierary Not an attrac- tive place— Leave for ('ork -Blarney Castle Its history Cork -William Penn Leave for (j)ueenstown- iJlack Ruck The River Li'c 'i'he harl>our (j)ueenstowu 530 ■KKDKnzncKsnnnB! XIV COXTEN'TS. Chai'tkr XX r. LAST TRIP TO SCOTLAND. Tlie voyaye an.I mci.le.its cmnecte.l with it-^To.y Islau.l -I„-. Hra 1ml hg.t--Ratl.ln. Lslan.l -Mull „f Kinty.e--Fi,tl. -f (Jlv.le^ oattell — Liiiiihrae Islands-Millpoit— Lams-Weinvss Hiv On shore - . lood-hye-^^^-Bathgate Ja .Iris e-^The h S . ,-,r:jW £ X'''""'r'''n ''^''''^"■'"'''"- Residence of Seotch king"! R id. , n ' ' ""'"'■«1''''>- i"i»s-Hroo,nhall -Uupar-'ray B. .Ige -llh. calan.ity of 187!) -Arhroath-The old Al.l.ev-Dr dohnston s opinion ot ii— Montrose -A lieautiful place - Sr Janu. ] onglas an.1 the heart of King Rohei-t UvnL'^^L^^ de St < .eolge --Stonehaven Dminottai- Castle- Al.erdeen - A hue cty ts pul, lie i.uilding.s-Bndge.. -Old Ahenleeu-Kiug^ College and the Cathedral-Lor.l B.vron -Tlie river. Dee nd in)md:f {[/"'■ ^'"«-«'-'Vlts Jute factories-Old t^n ot Dundee -Alloa -An lucident-Man.sion of the Karl.s of Mar- Clackinannan Tower -Tulliho.ly House - Portol.ello - Mussel- PAOR 582 ILLUSTRATTONS. Abbotsford, from the Garden The Study . . Entrance Hall Dininu-room PAdK 4«)8 49.") 4t)(i Aberdeen, from tlie Dock (Jates (i()(i Albert Kmbanliuient and >t. Thomas' Hospital, London . . 100 Albert Memorial, London . 15)1 Ailsa Craig, Kirth of ' 'lyde .. 592 Allan Ramsay's Book-shop, High .Street, Kdinbiirgh . . . . 4()1 AUoway Kirk, Alloway . . olO Arran, from t.'umbrae . . . , 594 Assize Court, Manchester . . 41 ' Auld " and New Bridges of Doon, Alloway .. .513 Avenue to Guy's Clitf, Warwick 304 Axbridge . , 93 Bath Bath Abbey, West Front Interior Bank of England, London Bathing lie.i h, I'ortobello BeaiicJiamp Chapel, Warwick . . Belfast, Higli Street .; Blarney Cas'le, Cork Both well Castle . . Bracklim. Falls Callander Brickern Btidge (Glena Mf)untain in the distance), Ki'larney . . Bridge of Allan, from Gavan Hill Bridge Street, Cliester . Bristol, from the top of Co'ston Street . . British Museum, London 122 130 137 140 010 2S0 531 570 374 427 5()9 430 33() 169 I'AOK Brodick B.iy and Goatfell . . 527 Castle 523 Broomielaw, The, Glasgow . . 391 and Glasgow Briilge .392 Buck Inn, Maliiam, Yorkshire (!3 Burns' Hirtii-place, Allowfiy . . .")0C " Monument, " . . 516 liurns' Monument and Salisbiuy Crags .471 Callander and Benledi . . . . 425 Canongate T()ll)ootii, Kdinbmgh 404 Carlisle Castle . . 307 Carlis'e, from the River . . 306 Calton Hill, Edinburgh . . 472 Castle Uoune, Callander . . 429 Castle Rook, Cheddar . . . . 95 Charing Cross, r^on(> Kdiuhurgii ("iistlc, tVoiu (irass Maiket 458 From I'rinct'Hs Stroet . . 45;{ Kdinliurgli, fioni Caltou Hill . . 4.S1 i K(liul(urgli, Olil Town and \Va- v(M-ley Hridgi' 480 I Kllen's Isle, Lo('li Katriuc .. HI ; Fleet Street aud L\idgate 11 ill, ' Loudon . . 174 j Fo\lutaiii aud ('lock Tov.er, Stratt'onl-ou-Avou . . . '.V2'.\ Four Courts, 'I'lie, DuMiu .. 545 (^■ap of Duuloe, Flntrauee to . . 555 Turnpike iu the . . 5."i8 View in the . . . . 5»i() »veii«»r IIrin Court. Bri<}ge " Lfa«i Hall, Litneasiure . . Holyroo»l Pal-»<-e. Kdiidiurgh . . Ch.i|Mfl Koyale, West Fiont . '- East t^ue«-u Mary"« liedroom Hoi-se (>uarili>, Limdon . . House* of Parliaineut, Ivondon . I'AOK 3()8 437 328 204 302 24fi 243 240 242 238 248 234 581 88 89 528 143 214 31 (>7 4f;(> 4()!» 470 4()8 210 1H8 23 leelierg-* Interior of Coneervatory. Horti- cultural Gardens, Kensington 194 In the Pas* of the Trosachs . . 417 Joiin KnoxV Houi«e, Edinhurgh 402 Kenilworth Cactle . . 295 Ban)|uetiiig Hall . . 297 Leietster BuiKiiiig . . . 298 Ca-sar's Toner . . . . 296 Kenilworth and Church . . 294 King Charles' Tower, Chester. . 332 \Vateri;ate 334 PeuiWoke ( iate . . . . 335 ILLUSTRATIONS. XVll r'AdK I I^iiilifh aiijch Lonioiul . .S9S I " Achray anonii(tn . . 178 New Tay Bridge, Dundee . . (iOl Nilometer. in l^eicester Hospital i Ciarden. Warwick . 278 ' Old Gramniur Si-|iiHd, Stratford- on-Avon . . .'121 '. Old Weir Bridge, Killaruey 5«7 | On the Kiiimare Koa<1 in a daunt iiig-<-ar . . 552 On the Wharfe, ittdtoii WiM)ds. 59 OxfonI Street, f^mlon .. .171 I'ari.xh Chunli, from the Soiitli ea«t, Stratford-on- Avon . 310 Interior. Khowing Bust and (Irave» . . 317 Aveiine t«> Main Kiitrauic . 315 I'urtneliaii, r\ol» Koy > JIou.se . 4iidon " " (ilasgow " " .Manchester. Rushcii Castle. Isle of Man St. Ant holly's Chapel. Kdiniiurgh St. Klizahcth Hospital. Bristol . St. George's Chapel, Windsor St. George's Hall, Livei'iKiol St. (iiU's Cathedral. Kdinhiirgh St. doiins Church, Chester Xavc . . Vestibule St. .Mary Redcliffe Church. •• Interior Xew Reredos St. Patrick's Bridge. Cork St. Patricks Cathedral. Dublin. Interior St. Pauls Cathedral, London Interior St. Peters Hosjiital. Bristol 57S 20 532 580 129 52li 338 134 192 145 379 42 32 483 91 22<.l 30 44*1 340 349 34S 75 79 7« 579 541 542 197 202 74 t. iUlM" xvni ll,LrsTl«ATI<»NS. St. Ste|)lii;u's(Ueeii, Diil.liii ShakCspoanr.M House, Stnitford ou-Avon Hirtli-rooiii . . Living-roiim . . Mein(>riiil Building, . Sliottery, Atiiic Hatliiiwiiy's ( 'ot • t»ge Interior Silver Strand, Locli Katrine Sir Walter Scott's Moiuiini'iit, Kdinhiii'gli Skipton Castle . . Somerset House, London Stanley Palace, Chestei- Stirling Castle From the Cliuroli Towci- Douglas Room Stronaohlacliar, Loeli Katrine . . PAOK I .ViS ! Ulster Hall. I'.elfast I'AllK 5;u ,sio »13 311 322 324 325 415 47(5 49 179 .341 432 431 433 408 " Rol) Roy's Prison 407 'I'ennants' Arms, showing Kiln- sey Crags . . 57 Thames, opposite Billingsgate. . 158 Tintern Ahhey ..110 From Southwest .. Ill North 'IVan.sept .114 South Aisle 117 Tomb of Sir Walter Seott, l)ry- hurgh . . 502 Tore Mountain, from Kouaye Isle, Ki Harney . . 508 Tore Mountain, from Dini.sh Isle SOI* Town Hall, Liverpool . . . . 34 Tower of London ..147 Trafalgar S()uare, Lomlon .. 181 Trinity College, Ihihlin .. .'543 Trougate, The, (Uasgow . . 378 "Twa Brigs n' Ayr ' . . . . 518 Vice- Regal Chai)el, Duhlin .. .540 Victoria Column, Rath.. .. 133 Victoria Hotel and Lowei' Lake, Ki Harney . . . . . ■ 550 N'iew on Loch Katrine . . . . 413 Wallace Monument, Stirling . 43(> Warwick Castle 281 Entrance (!ate , . . 283 Fiom Inner Court . . 280 (ireat Hall .. .287 Cuy's Tower . . 285 Warwick Vase 292 Watergate Street, Chester . . 339 Wells Cathe.lral 99 West Front . . . . 101 Wemyss Hay 599 Westminster Ahhey .101 Choir 163 Xavc 164 Westminster Hall . . 16(i West Park, (Uasgow . . . 389 Windsor Castle 220 East Terrace . . 223 Long Walk, looking north 225 " south 227 Windsor, High Street . . . . 231 Winscond)e . . . . 92 Wyo, The, from the donhle view 107 Opposite Edmund Eyot . . 109 " Ye Banks and Braes o" Bonnie Doon"' 515 "Ye Five (iahles" and Shake- speare Hotel, Stratfoid-on- Avon 30ivjiki'ast .mil luiieh into oiif repast. This over with, we jjfood- M!iturein|u'ratur»^ was very niarkcil. W v witc iiliul to <:•«> flown ami i}:(h the cold brcc/c which had ])layi'd aionnd tlicni until it was as cold as they, uuulc o(n- teeth chatter, _\ et we remained ^azin;;- uiton its iudentcil and icy shores. The sun went down hehind the sea in a lilaze of ;^doi-y. A sunset at sea is a tine sioht, and one not easilv form)ttcn by those who liave witnessed it. As \ watched the reccdin;^ disc, I fancied T could reach with inv eye the verm* behind which it sunk. But I remembered that far inside that space to the west wi-re loved ones whose thousc of those droaiy urctic voya<^('Ui'H, those stately traveUeis ol tlie northern Hoa, who heed not though the aii^^ry liillows loMni and )ti-oaclieil. At first it looked like an old-fashioned farm-house, with a loni^ range of low straegling buildings l)ehins loomed ii]» before us. At .S p.m. we wi'i'e abreast the Cape and took a last look at America. We were now faii'ly launched on the *;i-eat Atlantic, and could have wished that our introduction hail worn a more pleas- ing aspect. The wind had increased to a stitt' ))i'ee/e. The .sea, which had been playfully rolline'. now looked an<;ry and threateiiinii'. On ever\' hand countless icel)er<>".s lifted their white and sombre heads far above the wrathful waves and ttoatinu' ice. Kemnants of shattere was moving on gallantly with all sails set. There were hut tew ladies at diinier, and a j^ooil many gentlemen, too, had engagements downstairs, and '■ n.'ist he excused." We were on the IJaiiks lielore night, so the sailors said, hut i do not know that 1 was much the wiser i'or the infoi- mation. I could not distinguish the ditl'erence in (he colour of the water which sailors say is ohserv aMe, and hy whicii they know when they are on them I was not (|uite so verdant as the man who askeil a captain with nuicli eai- iHvstness where the Hanks weie. I'oi- he hail heeii looking lor them all day ami could not see them. I was much pu/zled this morning to tell whether I had slept on my head or my I'eet. Washing ]»roved a very ptn'plcxing and uncoml'ortahle ati'air. I was y spreading out my legs like an 1 i. 2() HEKK AM) TIIKHK IN THi: HOMK LAND. extoiidiMl pair oF t()n<;'s I could stcjuly niynelf aj;'ain!st tlic motion of the ship in one direction. Imt I needed another pail to ouard me iVom the other. Thi'ic was nt) way for it but to hold on witii one hand antl a[)ply the water with the other, and even then T Found myself putting- it in v(;rv uncomfortable places. 1 worried through, however, after a while, and made for the deck. The sea was running- nnich liio'her than yesterday, and tin- wind much strong'!-. We wi're making- foui'teeji and a half knots an hour. At noon the wind had become so stronjjf that all the sails wero close reefed except the main-sail. A sea evei- and anon broke on the deck. Walking- was attended with so much ditHculty that it became necessary to clin^- to the lon^^ rope that extended lener of vacant seats at the tal)le. Tumblers, bottles and the like were constantly topplinj>' ovei', ereatin*^- vexation on one hand and amusement on the other. The storm seemed to increase in force as the day vvore on. It is j^rand and impressive to stand on deck with the wind roarinj4' throu<;"h the ropes and yards, and look out upon the waves risinj;- like ^reat black mountains seamed with snow, rushiuii' down on \'ou as if t\wv would burv you in their an<^er. Voui' iK)ble ship THKKK IN THK HOME F.AXD. Satuniay moriiiiijjj opont'd upon us witli eheerrul Hun- .shiue, and teuiptiMl lu.iiiy to eoni<' on deck early. The wind l»!id fallen to ;i eotnt'ortahle breeze, and we were sweeping on finely. After Ineakfa.st all hands came out to enjoy the hritjht sun, and the eai'ance. ShutHe-hojud and other deck games were in i"e(|uisition. We luid not .seen a sail for three days, nothing hut the hroad e.\|)anse of the seething ocean. Even the petrels which had het'U disportijig themselves around us during the storm, were no longer to Ix' seen. Our last Sundav on hoard was xcrv aiireeahle. The wind had died away: the .sun shone cheerfully upon us, anil oui' sick ones sought the deck. The Rev. Mr. IMartin, a Church of FiJ\i;la.nd minist«'r returnini«- from Australia, ])reached. Monday opened upon us clear as a hell. The ,sea was calm and smooth. We were drawing neai" to land, and were on tlu' lookout foi' it. Karly in the afternoon Tory Island loomed up out of the sea, after which we caught glimpst>s of the |)( rry\ t'augh ^^ountains, and then the I'Ugged shores of northern Irtdaiid; hut the atmospher*'- was so thick tliat we cotdd otdy get an outline of the moun- tains and short". We pass Lough Swilly, and then round Malin Head, Ireland's most noi'thern point: and notice the! large .S(|uare momuuent there erected. Pi'oceeding now niong the coast to Inishown Hea we pass the Giant's Caiisewjiy anil havi' a j^oo«l view of these noted clitt's. Our course lies down the North Channel. We can see the Mull of Cantire on one hand, and the shore of the County of Antrim on the other: anutli ne w Inch we sei' at first i;radually devcloj)s as we a})proach, and its numntains stand out clearer and in bolder relief. It lies in the nurtlu'rn pait of the Irish Sea, and flv Enirland Irelan«l and th IS nearly eiiuidistant ironi riiio^iand and Jreian«i a.nu the south of Scotland. It is about thirtv-three miles lonii and twelve miles wide. A nuanitain ranirc occupies a j^reat portion of the island, extendinji" from Mau^hold Head to the Calf Islet. The loftiest elevation is Snaefell. which rises 2,024 feet above the .sea. In and thi'ttujifh these loftv mountains ari' to be found the picturestjue recesses of Ravensdale, Sulby, (Jlcn. (Jlen Aldyn. and Halure. The tine scenery of the mountains has been made more acces- sible by the construction of a sei-jcs of roads, conmiandin^- at many points views uiisur|)a.ssed in the kingdom foi- pictures(pieness and variety. In many respects this island is uniipie and interesting- bo. ond any otiier of the Hritisli Isli-s. Its laws, its customs, its system of t;oveinment aic in the main (piite diti'erent fi'om those of the neiu;hlM>urinir islands of (Jivat Britain. Since its purchase liy the Cr«>wn of Knuland in 182.'), it has enjoyed what the Ii'ish people an' clamouring' for — " Home Hule. In this respect it is not ludike C'a,nada, possessing- its own <^dvei'nment, known as the House of .('Un f 1 I ■■ 80 IIKIJE AND THEKE IN THE m»ME LAND », ■■' I I ^■1 Keys. A LioiittMiant-Ciovenior is a{i|K>int<:'{)rn(lai;e, is f«»r all practical pui"po.st\s ijidependent. Prioi" to th»' jmivliasi' fntiii the Stanley family, who eaine into p* »Hs«'SNioii in |»erpetuity (lnrin<>- the reiixn of Heni'v IV., bv pavinir to thi- kiiiir. his heii"s and successors, at coronatiim, a cjist of falcons, it was inde- pendent and ruled l»y tlu'in un«lfr the title of Kin^f ov Lord of Mail. It was a King n{ Man that ])laced tlu' crown on the head of the Kjirl •»f Richmond after the battle of Hosworth Field. The island is i-ielt in monuiueiits of the jjast, and par- ticularly of the dead, wliether |>iv-hist<^iric or of later date. Its scenery is vai'ied and pleasiiij;. The central hills, tliough perhaps nt>t »|uite so Vieautifiil as those of the EntijUsh lakes, are nexei-thelesji not far Ijehind in their \aried attractions. The clifts aloncr the southern coast in many places are wild atid j^^-and. Vej;;etation, except where exposed to the full foixi* of tlie gales, is always luxuriant, for the climate is iiiiM. and s«*vere frosts are rare. The hydrantria, the inviil** and the fuchsia flourish unnipped, and grow to a large sizf. Take it all in all — its history, its anticjuities, it scener\" and its climate — there are few places in the British Isles which Ix'tter repay a visit of some dui-ation than th»f We of Man. It is a favourite simnnt'i- rcsoi-t f«)r thoiiRands of the Bi'itish ]»eople. The principal towns ar»' Kainsay. Douglas, Castletown, and Peel. In the latter plaiv is Ptvl Cawtle, which the readers of • Pcveril of tlu' P«'ak " will ivmcndi^'r as Holm -m ox TIIK OCEAN AND OX SHOIJK. m IVei, oiu' of tin- Jincit'iit sti-oii^hoMs of tlic islniKl. Here Sir WalU-r Scott iiiti-o«luct's us to the youii^ Karl of Oerbv aii'l his frJriKl .Julian Pcvci-jl, and the Uravc C'oinitess of Drrhy. wliose lius1»an«iir 32 HEUK AN1> TIIEKK IX THK llo.MK LAND. I :: • I nature lias t'ailiMl to provide them with tails. Tliis is the only place in the worltl, I believe, where the feline t'aniilv are tailless. I have never come across any reason for this peculiarity. It is one of natures freaks. I suppose. Tiie Manx kitten certainh' desei'ves the svmiiathv of kittenhood everywhere, because it has no tail to |)laA- ItrsilKN CASTI.K, rsl.K (IK M.\N. with, and is hence deprived of one of the urt-jitest ciiarms of its lift'. From Castletown, Poi-t Krin, tin' Calf of Man. and the north coast of the island can l)e visited. The cliffs are y;rand. The scenerv of the whole reiiion is wild and storm-beaten, and the primitive lan^ua<;'e and primitive customs have lingered lono;er here than in any other part ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHORE. 83 of the islainl. One of tlie most remarkable s})ots is called the Chasms, a numher of deej) parallel fissures which have opened in the rock, producei^ri'j2;ated : in others, vessiils enga<;ed in the Mediterranean tiatiic ; in others, tlie Baltic and Russian, or the North and South American : in othei-s, coasters are to be foinid. Some of the lar^e ship com- panies, such as the Inman or Maclver lines, have b(>rths sptrially allotted to their vessels. There are munerous docks for the repaii- of vessels, and "^rid-irons" ujion which vesst'ls can rest for examination \'t :\ 1 40 HERE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. and triHiufif repairs while the tide leaves then) hi^ii and (hy. In front of the Prince's Pai-ade is moored the Sonth La'vlin^ Statue. constructcMl after a desit^n hy Sir William Cuhitt, and nsed by ocean and coastinj^ steamers, and those from the Isle of Man, Ireland, Scotland and Wales. It is the largest floating staj^ti in the world, beinjr 1 ,002 feet long and 82 feet wide. The platform or dock rests on sixty-three iron pontoons, each 80 feet long, 10 feet wide and 4 feet deep. The approach to the stage is by four bridges, which are constructed so as to rise and fall Avitli the tide. On the deck are sheds for shelter. There are also on it, stations for the river police and the life-boat service. Having seen the principal points of interest in this great maritime port, I take my departure by the Yorkshire and Lancashire Railway for Manchester, which I'oad nnis prin- cipally through the County of Lancashire. It possessed more than nsual interest to me from the fact of its being the scene of the first railway enterpi'ise in the world. Stephenson, although he lived to see the iron I'ail join city to city, country to country, and continent to continent, after all could have had but a very small conception of the amount of capital expended and the grand total of miles reached since Liverpool and Manchester werc^ linked together in 18Ii0. I was pleased that my first ride on the rail in England should be by the first line built and over Chat Moss, whicli presented such serious ditliciUties to engineering skill in those days, but which now would be considered a com- 4 * •* m^^ 1(1. ity lit, of Otill aiul licli ill 1)111- I ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHORE, 41 [)arativo trifle. I j^ot glimpses, too, as we flew along, of Eiiglaiul's greatest chanii, her rural scenery — the green hedge, the broom with its golden flowers, the chestnut, hawthorn and honeysuckle, in gayest dress of summer l)loom. The graceful elm and sturdy oak, clad in richest foliage, strongly tempted me to alight for a stroll. Tliese were the foreshadowings of pleasures to be enjoyedi Permit me now to say a few words about Manchester. I TllK ASSl/.K COIKT, MANCHESTEK. was in the city several times, but did not go there to " do " it, as is said. It is a place not much sought after by the sight- seeing nomads, though in importance the fourth city in the kingdom. Its history runs back beyond the time of the Roman invasion, but it did not ])iiss under the invadere' yoke until A.l). 7!). Then tin; tumults of war broke upon the ])eaceable inhabitants, and Manchester was occupied by levies from the banks of the Tiber. It is now the centre li' \ 42 HERE AND THEHE IN THE HOME LAND. of the great cotton rnanufacturinf^ industry of the king- dom. There are a great many very hirge and imposing warehouses in the principal streets, evidences not only of the wealth of its great merchants, hut of their taste and energy. Of the puMic buildings, the Assize Courts, which stand in Great Dacier Street, Strangeways, are considered KdV.VI. K.\<'HAN(iK, MANCIIKSTKK. hy competent judges among the finest (Jothic huildings of modern days. Tlu' Exchange will he, when completed, the finest huiMing of the kind in the world. Tlu; new town hall is in the Loml)ard Venetian style of architec- ture, and will accommodate five thousand persons. The site of this hall may he considered historic, and the building itself is a memorial of the agitation which resulted in the ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHORE. 43 repeal of the corn-laws. Here tlie " Peterloo " affair took place, resulting in the loss of many lives, and here the great meetings of the Anti-Corn-Law League were held, which brought Cobden and Blight to the front rank of English politicians. The town hall in King Street is also a fine building. Opposite this stands the Branch Bank of England. There are a number of other fine public build- ings and churches worthy of notice, but I must leave them, |; U — ..«i — — *— tr . -• ~- .i_— •-• — -■■ - .iJutm ^m 1; »■:;, it Sf ■ 1 ■•'/.ft ■ MM MANCHKSTER ('ATHKl)KAI-. >gs d, ew ec- ^ite ing the as well as the parks and other places of resort and amuse- ment. The Wellington monument, with manj^ figures and hds-reJii'fs, and the statues of Dalton the chemist, and Watt the inventor are on the Esplanade. The Peel memorial stands on Mosley Street, and the Albert memo- rial in Albert S(iuare. It consists of a marble statue within a higldy ornate (Jothic shrine. In St. Ann's Sipiare there is a fine bron/e statue of Richard Cobden. 44 HEKE AND THERE IX THE HOME LAND. The respect that is paid by the British people to the ineniory of their j^reat men is, to ray mind, one of the finest traits in their character. From Westminster Abbey, tlie ^rand niausoleiini of the nation's dead, throujrhout the hind, in park and S(|uare, in town and country, are to be found monuments and memorials, statues and busts of those men whose example and brain-work have so larjjjely contributed to elevate their land to the veiy sununit of modern civiliza- tion. They are dead, but their works follow them : the}' sleep, but their names, cut in stone or cast in brass, speak to the world's toilers, and incite them to work on and faint not. "Lives f)f great men all remind us We can make our lires Kublinie, And, dei)arting, leave behind us Footprints on the sands «»f tnue." CHAPTER II. rw^Ts A RUN ISTO YORKSHIRE, AND A TRAMP OVER A MOOR. SOON afU'i- my arrival in Eii^lainl I turncMl my Foot- stops in the direction of Darwen, one of a elnster of nianufacturini; towns situated in the northern part of Lancashire. Pleasure-seekers and tourists, who visit the mother country to see and enjoy its historic phices — its aisth-s. its pahices, its numerous collections of art and science, its imposiuj^f cities, its wealth, its hattle-tields, its sacre«I memories, its homes and haunts of j;enius — do not often run ofi* to these busy, smoky manufacturing centres, and \'et these are the places whence the wealth an, but would reconunend those who have not read it to do so. It is very beautiful, and as a description of the country where the scene was laid, it is faultless. When we had turned the last hill-top before reaching- rJrassingtoii, the drag having been properly adjusted, jehu cracked his whip and away we went at a ruotiing pace towards the bottom. I wondered then, and I wonder now, why it is that English drivers always go full tilt down lull ; and in order to make me still more comfortable on is occasion, I suppose, the driver began : " I had a dreadful smash-up at the l)ottoin of this here hill two years ago, sir." " You did, eh f " holding on more firmly to my seat. " Yes> sir. I was agoin' on about as were agoin' now, sir, awhist- lin'-like to myself, sir, never thinkin' that nought would 'appen. I 'ad habout as many haboard as we've got to-day, hand just when we got to that turn in the road you see down there, sir, the drag broke, hand haway we went, coach hanriiieipally by persons employed in the lead mines, two miles away. There is o\w thing worthy of note, the Yorkshire villages are remarkable for their clean appearance. Scarcely a slab ¥i 1 11 ^11 4i 5() HERE AND THERE IN' THE HOME LAND. ill tlic door of the Iminbk'st cottage can be t"(jnii(l that in not chalked as white as the good dame's apron. After a brief consultation, we determined to walk on to Kilnsey, a distance of little ov(M' three miles. We returned, therefore, to the iini.jjaid otn* l)ill, anht be<*an to creep over us as we trudged leisurely alon^" the stone-paved road, in pleasant chat — " Along the bank.s uf tlie crystal Whaife, TIii(niii;h the vaK' rotiie*! jukI lowly" — on through Gi-assinj^ton Wood, and over the long, old- fashioned stone bridge that spans the wharf and leads into Kiln.stiy. We put up at the Tennants' Arms, where we were provided with good clean beds. The one assigned to me was a marvel in its way. There was timber enough in it to buikl a small house, and it was strong enough, too, to hold a bi'ace of giants ; aye, and broad enough to take in a whole family. I clambered into it, liowever, and sunk unresistingly into its feathery embrace, wondering whether I sho\dil be able to find my way out in the morning. Sleep so(m put an end to all anxiety on this or any other sulyect. I do not know whether I dreamt al)out it or not ; be this as it may, I found myself, the first thing in the morning, speculating about the lavish use of timber in a country wlu^re it is so scarce and so dear. Their wagons and carts A RUN INTO YORKSHIRE. 67 in to in a unk ilier eep ect. tliis .in- trieat luuibenng affairs. Their farm implemonts are l)()tli heavy and chinisy. Their furniture i.s massive and unwieldy: not like ours, made of pine and veneered with the thinnest possible shaving of genteeler wood, but solid and strong. John Bull don't believe in veneers or shams of anv sort. His liousehold stuff is made to last for aires, to ))a.ss on as heirlooms from generation to generation, and TKNN.VNTS AK.MS, SIIOWINC KII.NSKV iKAIi.S hence lit! .seems to puzzle liis brain to see how much timber he can get into evervthinii' made of wood. A I'efreshing nights rest prepared us for an early break- last, which was served up in g(iod Yorkshire style, and (consisted of hum and eggs, good l)read and butter, and tea with an abundance of fi'esh milk. This over with we took a turn outside. The lofty r-anges of limestone rocks, called Kilnsey Crags, .stretching along the valley, terminated :<; -- I i i 58 HERE AND THERE IX THE H<»ME LA\I>. uhruptly just behind the inn. These arrested our atten- tion. They are nearly two hunflre*! feet hij^li, and where tliey end overhanj; tlieir Jmw? about forty feet. The valley through which the beautiful Wharfe winds its way is seen with increased admiration fi-om the top of the crags. It is said by the people that in the old times the abbots of Fountains drove their iinnien.se flcK'ks of sheep hither from the surrounding countrj- for their annual sheep- shearing, and held there likewise courts for almost all their manors of Craven. Some of the remains of the court-house are shown behind the Tennants' Amus. The morning being fine, and therefore favourable for our contemplated walk, we set out at eiglit for Malham, a dis- tance, it was sjiid, of fiftet-n luiles over the Moor. Our path at first led up a pretty steep ascent of two miles, and caused us fre(|uently to pause in onler that we might get breath. After a time we reachee to find ones way over those pathless wastes. Indeed, to thowe uiiac<^|uainted with the I I ' t. "t 00 HERK AND THERE IN THE HOME LAM). locality, it is not safe under any circumstances to attempt to cross without a guide; and even these frecjuently lose themselves in the mists, which are very prevalent, or in the dark and starless night. After having sufficiently rested oui-selves, we set out, and pressed our way leisurely for some hours over the slippery grass and yielding heath — "O'er nidorlaiuls and mountains, wide, barren and liare, ' Wildered and wearied.' " On our way we saw thousands of sheep ranging the hill- sides, and now and then a shepherd appeared, mounted on his hardy pony, climbing some far-oft' hill ; and when he reached the sunnnit, and horse and rider stood out against the clear blue sky, they made for us a pretty silhouette. We did not see during our long walk a single abode, not even of the most humble sort; and 1 must confess that after all a moor did not prove to me to be a very interesting place. There may be poetry and novelty about a moor, but I failed to discover either the ad of the beautiful hedge, which lends such a charm to Knglish scenery, there are ugly and interminable .stone fences. I never saw, nor do I wish to see again, so many leagues of stone walls. It is not a pretty country — that is, what I saw of it. The high hills are crowned with lime- stone rocks or lieath. But few trees meet the eye, except in the valleys. On the desolate moors, which are very ("()- III "y IS, 'I't -T' <:nl;i) Al.K I'.Ki'K. lyiTi'M ^li^ i:.i.-i:i.)iif^^l (Hi IIKKi: .\\l» TIIKKK IN TFIE llo.ME I.AM). tl m^s arc iiiofstly in thf NJillcys, ami arc i»ltcn luilcs extensive, tlit'i'e is none. Thf liit^-lilamls antl moors, wln'elr compose a Vi'vy lar^e ]>co|)oi'tioii of the ' but a pleasurable recreation. " No heat h-ilfid inuor, iior Yorkshire liill.s, woil' tliey I't'ime^ent, I'cndli* Hill, itinl littlL" lii<,'li'huro," would tempt me to look uj)on them aoain. The muscles of my leos, when I att(Uiipted tli«' sli<;lite.st descent, sent throuf^h me a twin^^e of jiaiii, fai- removed from any agree- able sensation. 1 was, in fact, for tlu' time bein<;, "a U8ed-U|) community,"' but in a few days was ready for unotlier ramble. A m N INTO YOUKSHIIU:. (17 ( )ii a Sumlay artrriiouii .Mi. S sui;';4('stt'il that we .shouM liavi' a walk (»van.s('s hy the way. iit I'cachiii";- it : ami then sat down, not only to ifst, hut to ••njoy as well the tine \ icw -■■vm^ --i*^; tliJ^S.-.^ iS..J<^;' . - ^^^: Hii|.l.|N>i|IK\|) MALI.. our t'h'vatiMJ position arti)riU'r woods. .\ii ancient iron ;;ate closeil the way at the entrance of the wood, hut it efa\e way to a \ i^^orous jaish and allowed us ut proceed alon^ the shadetj path, which hronL,dit us out in front of Hollinshead Hall. Many lon^ years a<;o the hall m 'i i (i> liVAlV. AND THKUK IN TlIK IKi.MK LAND. was ;i jdacc oi" note: so much so, iiKleod, that Croiinvell, (hiriiii^- his wars, laid sictjc to it, and after a short rt'sistanco hrouoht the hau;j,hty proprietor to ti-i'nis. How iHiiiifroiis arc th».' sad nicinorials, scattered all over (Ji'eat IJritaiii. of the Fanatical zeal of the ^ireat C'Oininoiiei- and Ins i>enerais. 'I'll ley went tln'ouji'li the lan' soiij-'. 'i'licii we tan-ird l.\- th»' tit-M when- the irirl^ Jind l)o\s wen- iiiilkinj'', jiihI \vatch(Ml them as thev took their way cheerfully towaroii our minds the walk that lay hel'ore us. We staitctl tortile hall at oiici', hut het'orc we reache<| it tin- lain licuan to patter on the leaves. 'I'he old Tanuer thou<;,lit it lait a shower, which would soon e(j l)y : hut the lont lait that we presented an interesting;- picture as we ciept alon;;- the slippery [lath in the luatiui^ I'.'in. Till' situation was not a;^reealile. and it seemed to me now that e\ery fancy that I had previously had for rambliiiM (»\er ii is would be el!e( tually washed out. When we had traversed ab(»ut half the distance, the storm Jiad lieconie so furious that we thoui^ht it liest to seek shelter ill a small hut we had just reached, liopinu; that (lie dovvnpiair Would abate; but it did not. and dreadiii;^' the approachin;^' daikiiess more than the rain, (here was llothlllir lor It lillt to lil'oceed Tl le eood-natiiietl |ieasant. hen We wi-re leav iii;^. told us to bu on the lookout for an f 70 HKKE AM) THKllE l\ THE HOME LAND. iimuK' hull tliJit lmre.se .hn;^' veiy much the appearan<'e I if ,1 company of drow ned rats. CHAl^TI'K III. /ih'/S7 0J. AXn //S M'.lCHnOVKHOOlK m T LKFT Darwt'ii tin- ut-xt day at'tt-r my ii the •'- moor, aiul procoeih'd hy rail throu;;;l> the nauititts of Clu'sliiri', Staliord, Worccstrr ami ( iJoiin'sttT In I'.ristoi. passin<>; also tlirou«;h tlif cities of ('n\v and Statlord. Iiavinji- a ulimpsi' of Statioi'd Castle hv the wav: then th)*oui>h Wolverhampton and the P»Iaek Country to l)irmin}j;hajn. Kiihu liurritt ^ix cs the Itest fjeseription i have seen ol' this dismal, smoki'-drajied countiy. and tn those who desire tt) know in(»re alioiit this rey;ion of darkness, of c-oal |tits and iron meltine- works, ol' r(»llinL'' mills and lilast rurnaces, of in tact every concei\al»le manufactory for con\ t'rtin<; ii'on into the numberless forms re<|uiiiM| foi- man s use. 1 would recouunend a perusal of that very iMten'stin};;and instructive hook. " A Walk thiou<:;h the l^>lack Country. It seems to nie that nothing' hut the rulin;^ passion nf modern times, the li't'ttinu- of wealth, would induce an\- man t<> tarrv in this place of smoke and clan;^; of hannners. We then pas.sed thiouiih Worcester. Chitteuham and ( Jlouct ster. hesides a \v.s in that direction liy natural iiiiptilse. One of them, the elder C'al»ot, fro.sted his in the icy hrcath of l^i))rador lH-f«»n- Cohiiiiliiis toiu-hed tile main eoiitineiit of Amei'ica. Mill- hundred yeaix In-fore C'ahot sailed from Ihistol. it had its guild of Merchants Hoyal, and \eteiaii sailors as daring and dauntless as the iiyperlHtrean tars of Hric the II.h1." The city lies in the soutiiern extremity of ( Jloucester and le noiihern of Somersetshire. Tiie livei-s of Av«)n and ti rn»nie wind their wa\- throuirli it, and empt\' into the llri.stol Channel, or Severn Sea. For many centuries it was the rwctMid citv in Uritain, and is still eonsidered the 74 iii;i!K AND iiikim; in riii-; iiomk land. " Mt'tr<»|tnlis of tlir West. Likf olil Itoiiic it staml.s n|i(»n seven liills, ;iiiil also possesses a sistiT to tlir Tilier in tlie iiniil tin- arflia'olo^ist as liiistol. It was madf ail iinlfpciitlciit fity l»y Eilwai'l III, lait loii;^- I <) IIKItK AND TIIKlii: IN TIIK iI(»ME I.AM). 1m I'oic tlifit it WMs ,1 iit>tt'(| pluct' and possessed sonic of tlic tirit'st Imildiiit^s and cliui'dics in Bi-jtain. Many of them lia\r .KK ilURCH. with one story projcctiu};' oxer anothci- as tlicv I'ise. until the opj)()Hitc ^al)les almost touch oxer the centi'c «)t" the nan'ow street. Wjiat >^rand plnces those up|»ei- windows iiMist have heen for i^ossipine- dames I There ace a ntunher of interestini:- old chuiches wliose •K M I5H1STOI. AND ITS NEKillHOI KHf •( )I). t I history runs back to tin- tliirteciitli ami fourtfciitii cciiturifs, and aiMonj; tliciii tliat of St. \V('i-l)Ui';;li. in wliidi the Ht'\. John Wcsh-y prcacht-d tiis tii'st sermon in Ihistol, 1777; St. Ste])h('n and St. An^ustinc 'I'hc hittn- was Toundt'd by tho abbots of St. An^^nstint' s monastery as a chapel foi- the use of the iidiabitants who had erected houses and M\('d without the precincts of tlie conxcnt. ( )f the olefle of the church are some remains of the lids or coverinirs to hev were recell .some very ancient stone cothns. covered in lowerine- the walks i-ound the laiildinj tlv d is- H el'e III iiy be .seen also, against a pillar, the rib of the famous Th du!i cow slam by (Juy. Karl of Warwick. I his cow, accordini; to the le<;end, at one tinw supplied all the city with milk. She must ha\c been a o(>()d milker, and of ;;oodly size, too, for the lib is about ei<;lit feet hieh. Attached to a column in the .south tran.sept is a flat slab to tlie memory of Sir William I'enn, the father of tlie illus- trious founder of J'enn.sylvania, and near by on another column is suspended the armour of the ;iallant knie^ht, ta.st»'fully displayed ami ornament«'d by the Haj^s taken in enirairement with the Dutch fleet about l<)()4. Time, an however, has made ,sa. inHfri|itii)M.s scattered tliroii^^li the cliurcli. luit we must lca\f tlu'in. (Kcr tlir iioitli or ;^ifiii(l |k»I('1i is a idcuii cori-fspoinlinj; in si/e ami tonii witli tlir litwci- (iiic. wliicli. i|()ul)tlfss, wjih roriiicrly the rcsiilciicf ol piiests, aixl IVoiii tliis looni is a |»}issa;4C ((tmiiniiiieatiii;^' with the tower. At one time it was known as tlie reasurx' H oMse liut IS now usuallv tlesij^-natiMl tlie • Muniment R<»<)m, " in wliicli are the lemains oF the fhests in which C/hattertou jjroresseil to lia\e I'ouufl the maiuisci'i|)ts attrilmted to Howley. ( )ne ol" these chests, it is said, was called Mi'. Canynj;es' coti'er, ami was secuied l»y si.\ keys, two ol" which were entr>i.stc. 7f) nil l<'i!\ iii;^' tlinii lie slioiild stiirt ;i\\ iiy U|i t lie w iiidin^- >t TIIKIJK IN INK HoMK LANK. aiij;!.- of tlif cliui'chyanl. 'I'lir statuf, wliicli n'i)r«'stMitM liiiii in tilt' Colstons C'liarity School dress, is |)1hle ha\e Keen slow- in recoj^ni/inj^- the genius (»f the l»oy whose name sheds so iHUeh lustri' on the city of his hii-th — slow to do justice to the |)ooi- lad fioni whom they withheld hread— and now when they ^ive to his memory a stone, they mar the ji'ift hy (tlaeinj; it in a measureont of si;^ht,and without a word to tell the passin;^' stran;^er that this monument was placed here as a memorial of — " Tlio iiiarvi'lliiiis l)(>y. Tilt! sloeplfss MMil lliat peiislu'tl ill liis inide. ' I attended ail ••\cniny,- ser\ ice at Wesley ('lia|»el, huilt uakei-, and oi'ie of the firm of Fry iV Sons. After meetini;' we went thi-ou^^h the Cutler's Hall and the IJakers Hall, apartments once attached to the old nionas- tei'v, and .saw some old fonts and other arran^i'ements nlvvitys to he set-n in these old institutions. There were a few very old aiul sti'an^i'e ItMtkin;;; chairs, and otliei- ancient furtutuie, with curious earxinjis. ()\er a tii'eplace in one of the rooms, the date, A.l). l.'tOO, is cut. The Friends use these riHMiis for Sahhath-.seliools. ■j*TWfj^' I HKISTOL AND ITS NEl(;mU)irKUOOI). SI Hi'istol can houst of a lai"jt;»' iuiiiiImt of tiin' public Iniild- iii;;.s, chHi'ital>lf institutions, warclioustis, »'tc., worth sccinjj. But thci'c were two places wliicli ati'oi-ilt'il nit- more jjratiti- cation than anv of these (j;rainl ••(litices. One was a very hunihle and xenei'ahle-lookinj; phics h, HyK* Street, wliere Chatteiton was horn, it is said: and the other, No. 10, in Park Street, where Hainiah More kej)t a lM)ardin«;-sch(H)l for voting hidies. In a copv of the eai"l\' historv of the citv I found this curious orrU'rof the (,'oninion Council, (hited l^iol, prohihit- iuj; the use of cai'ts and waj^ons, and allowine- tlu' iise oulv of sled«^e:s and ilrays fo|- the following;' I'eason: "They surt'er no carts to he used in the city, lest, as some say, the shake occasioned hy them on the j»a\em<'nt sliould aU'ect the liristnl in the \aults, which is certainly had thei-e in the (greatest perfection." This law hecame ohsoh'te lonj; ae^i), and drays nnd carts convey their heavy loails throii;;!) all the streets, regardless of the "milk once so hiy;hly )»ri/,ed. ( )n Ashley l)own ai-e Miiller's Orjihan Mouses, the nohlest eharitahle institut 'u>\\, |iritlial»ly. in the world. These houses, lor there are ti\c of tlum, all of tlir same si/r and desij^n, oeeupy a lar;^!' i \ts, and at eiieli of the piineipal entrances there is a neat y;ate-kefpir s iod^i- Tln' origin and ;;rowtli'of this ri-markalile ( )rpliiMis Home may he considered one of the wonders II f ( liristian 1' itl Hianthrop\ rom the da\ Ml I H2 iii:i{i: AND tiikim: in tiii: iiomi: land. Mtillcr ]>icl\c(| up tlif Hist (ii|ili;ni on tlir stii'fts ol" lliistol, iiml took care of it, up to tin- ]H('s. iii!i'«riii. M». 1. for him to conniifncr with, and vtt wliin the woik ically Iw^ran unknown contrihutois sent him money. As thi' uuimImt of cliildrrn inrft-ast'd, so did thr contriltutions krrp pace with thr inci't-asi'd ncccssit ii's of thr undntakin;;', and so hr I las ;joiif on. year al'tt-r _\far, ;iat hi-rin;:' in hi:an'lcss orphans and rnhii'^fin;; his acroniniodation, until lu' has now 2,050 (indtT his caiv to IVcd, clothf and idiiratr. itmsToi. AM) IIS NKKMihornnooi). s:{ "It is now ahoiit thirty yens, li»' s.iys in his iast irjioit, ' siiicr j hcj^aii to walk in the ha|»]ty way, and I havf invariahly I'ouikI tht- Lonl tn \»' my hcliH-c. cxm Minlii- the ;ri"<'!it('st flitficultifs ami in the ^^Tt-att'st wants and mcrssi- tii-s, ol* whatever charac'tci they weir, and thus it has hcen, rspccially ol" late yfais. And with nj^aid to iiccuniaiy sii|)))lii's, I lia\t', simply in answi-i- to jirayn-, without impli- cation to anyone, obtained lor this work t!4.'{(),(>0()." The lepoit is a very interesting; ijociiment, liut it is im- jiossihle to H'iv ,. Turther extracts from it. The houses are npened to the puhlic one day in the Week, that is to say, line of the ti\e houses can he seen e\eiy day except Satur- days. A ceitain iiour i^ set apart lor the leception >>[ \ iNJt<>i-s, and when it anivesall that are pi-esent in the ;^cneral waitiue-rooni are show n throu;^h tin huihlinj;'. The time reijuired lor this is ahout two hours. 'I'he roonc are lar;^e ami airy, and are kept scrupidously clean. K\ery- thiue- is in the most perfect order. The children are wfll led and coturortahly cla\' llatli are seen, with a charming: variety 'if rural scenerx'. hurin;^ the (^i\il War this hill was --iron^ly fortified ly the |{oyalist> tn defend the cit\ U i S4 MKKK AM) THKin: IN llli: lloMK LAND. a;;ainst the anny ol' tlif I'ailiaiiifiit, uinln- tlif coininaiiil <»t" Croiiiwcll aiiil Kaii'tax. Maii\ of the tn-nclit's can still l>t> tiaft'd. \\y takiii},^ tin- jiatli wliicli lfa. pure tVi'sli !iir as it coinrs ovi>r tin- s|wcts tlif«-l«"vat«-siti(>ii ;;ivfs. A shoi't walk (»\(i' tin- l)<>wii hinii;^ iix. to t\n- fine suspension hri(ly,v, which stivtcln's fii>iii j-litTto ditt' ov«'r the turl)i. with the eneroachin;:' tide, contestin;^' e\'ery foot %vitli lli«" iiisweepin^" in\adei', initil its fniy is spent, and then |»nf>».iiii; it Imck in tiiinii|ili to the ,sea, is Itut a \ei-y sorrv picture of the I'Ush and roar ot" the clear waters of our iioKli- riv«T- A short walk on the dowiL^ to Siiilstoii House, and up Colh'e'e Koad, hrines us to the Zoolo^^cal (iartj.'ns. a Ncry attraetix'e place, not only for therlioit-i- collecti<»n of animals which they contain, lait also for tin- chaste and juflicions arran;^'enient ol" the shrul»f*, rto%%'«-i> and j;ra\el walks. I was fortunate enoii;^h the aft<-nioiiii I \ isited the ;;ardens to witness a ;;rand ff't'' ejivni to th«- workinj;nien am! mechanics of the city. We had iM'ani a i^hh\ i«<.taiic«', it is said, "lends cnclwuitiiient to the \ iew, and i:i this case distance and i;4;noi*ance of the facts have ;^ven |atint to the talc, and we ha\e recei\e(| as ti'Uths tile ovei-ii|ra%vn stat^'incnts of lui- principled men. Of the thoUHjind^ of this class whom I I If^ lUtlsmi. AM) IIS \KI)iHi«)L'|;ii(j<)I). 87 liavi- >*-*'U in tin* j^frat iii;iiiiira('tui'iii<:: «listi'irts of Lanca- «ihin' ami Vorlvsliin-, ami tiw tliousamls \vl»» wrri- |ii-t>s«'tit oil tliiK 'MVHsion. I must coiifrss that I liavt> t'ail'. Imth iii«*n ami woim-ii, wcir wrjl an trees, of e\eiy shade of y^retMi, that cluster ai'ound its base and stretch away into the valley. Kroiii the j^iuy iHM'ks that ci-o|» otit here an adoruint^ thciii witli ln\ cliiicss. Tliis liill lias an ancinit history. It was a stroiiy,' tortrrss iM-lnif tln' Hoinans in- vaded Britain, and l>y tlimi was cnlar^fd and stJvn<;tlM'iU'«|. Two of thf hastions and |)ai't ol' the inner wall aif still tnU'oahlc. The castle oeeilpies the site itl" an old ehajiel of St. Hlai.sus. Kroni the ^^roumls of thf «-astIe a path leads to HIaise hamlet- ten eottaj^es citrtrd in 1810 at tin- expense of the late pl'oprietor of the eastle. Mis ohjcet wjiH to proviile a eonifoi'tahle a.sylnin for |iers(tns advanet-d >^1 . 1^.. i^ii^^N- MKMtl KV I (»TIAi;KS, IlKl^lnl., in yeais, who had sutheient to li\i' on eoinfortalily when l'eliev<'d from the fX|tense of lionse-icnt. The founder, when he laiilt them, j-iatiHetl at ...,vf his fedinifs of l)onevole?i('e and his love (»f the |>ict\iifsi|Uc. The (•ottaj;es stand on the marj^in of a ciicle, and are ipiite dissimilar in tlu'ir construction. The inside of tlif eir«-le or yarHt .str.iuiff |i1hccs an-. 'I'lii'it- thou ^ll,■llt sof till- i,'raiHl Titaiiii- cliHs. Of tilt' piled iiMiiintaiiis. split tlimii;,'!! tliuir l)iilk I'.y r-tiiriiiii<{ lieart Wliioli spi-iiit,'N at line liraxe Iikhi.iI fmin pnlt' tn pnlc, Making,' tin- iiaticnis sIiikMci- ! Hrro it (.aiin' In its tioivu saturnalia, ttasliinir on < )ninipi>ti lit, witli wi'irW electric »lancr. Ami stanipftl its frantic ziij/.aK here furever With H>sieniatit- niatlncss. ' AFTKIx liit'akrnst tliis iiioniiiio-, I startcil with my tVit'inl M liy till" Bristol aii.l Kxctn- Rnil foi- Cln-ddiir, w liicli is sitiintfd in tli<' central ))nrt ot tlic ( 'ounty of SdiiKTsct. The load leads tliriai<;li Yattoii: tlieii di\ ci-f^iiio; IVdiii tlic main line, it takes iis across a lieli alluviid tract ol' country, and tliionoli Conoi-eshui'v, wliose taper .steeple rises oTju-e fully from tlie woody plain. Tliere is an old story connected witli this xeiierahle locality, which I take lease here to repeat it was in thiswise: St. Conj^ar, a son it is aHirmed. of one of the eastern em|)er()rs. who had run away from home liecause h<> did not like the wife his father lia momitai.. Iioinc. and Ids lands at'ti-r nnitatittns many and ;;Tcat have lallcn to a ;^-o<»i! use. for to this day they maintain ♦hat nohle institution (it" ih'istol. the (J|uecn Eli/.aheth Hospital. This was the home of the Sa.soiis, and I'elics of their customs still linger a hout the \alleys. At Dole Moois, for instance, the jiractice was, until tin- j-jiclosuie Act pas-m-d. for a numher of sinele acres, which helon;^ed t<»the('om mons, to he marked each with a peculiiir cut in the turf, ii I. «^% .Ji^. %. v%^, o^. %%K.% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y / O 'A &>. % 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■^ 122 1122 £ Ui III 2.0 1.8 U 111.6 '/Q ^ ^h ^'4^ ■% '/ /A i 92 HERE AND THERE IX THE Ht)ME LAXD. such as a horse, four oxen, a man, two oxen and a man, n pole-axe, a (hni THEHK IX THE HOME LAND. .[^!l:l in^ Churcliill on the left we cmi just eforo yovi lies, in all its variecl lovi'liness, one ol" tliose rui'al •sceni's that you so frecpiently meet with in Knulaml. ami wliich (V)W])er nnist have had in his eye when he wi'ote : " How lift ii|i()ii yui) ouiiiience nur jiafo Has slackened to a |)ausi;, and wi' liavt' Imi'iie Tlie nitHiiiif wind, sturco coiiiscioiis that it hii'w, Wliile adiuii'atidii, feeding at tlie eyu. And .still misati'd, dwelt ii|)(iii the st'eiie. Thence with what pleasure ha\e we just discenu'd 'I'he distant iilnugh sluw moving, and i)esido His lalxmring team, that swerved nut from the traek. The .stiu'dy swain dimiiii.shed to a boy I Here — slow windins.; tlnongh a level plain Of spaeioiis meadows, with rattle sprinkKd o'l'r, Condiii'ts till' eye alony; its sinuous couislv Delightful, there, fast rooted in their hank, Staml. never overlooked, our favomite I'lms, That Mi'reen tlu- herdsman's solitary hut ; I llMli^i <\STI,K ICnCK. i I 1:/ i • ■! ' 'ii 9(1 HKKK AND THEUK IX THK H< ME LAND. While fjir lioyund iind overthwart the .strejiiu That, as with innlteii glass, inlays the vale. The 8lo|)iiig laml reaches intt> the clouds, Dis|)layiiig in its \aried side the grace Of hedgerow l)eauties numberless, sijuare tower, Tall spiie, from which the sound of cheerful hells Just undulates upon the listening ear, Groves, heaths, and smoking villages, remote." The parish strctclu's away for inilos into the rich aUuvial moors whose verdant pastures furnish the dairyman's kine n constant supply of the tenderest heritage, which he trans- forms into that deliciijus article of world-wide reputation, known as Cheddar cheese. The town of ChecMar is a ([Ueer, stra: - I '4 WKLLS CATHKUUAL. verdure, till they rise into the mountain. Through Cheddar, Stoke, and Westbury moors, the River Axe crawls sluggishly towards the sea : "Cheddar, farewell, Thy towering cliffs and caverns shall remain. When those who visit them have passed away I The strength of manliness, the witcheries Of rose-lipped beauties perish ; but the mind. The soul, shall still o'ermatch thee, then outsoar That spirit in us, which can dream of glories To which thy own are but a baby's toy I 'HI F'^ ' 1 X y. o H •/. •< CHEDDAR. 101 Thiifc Hpirit shall outlive thy sepulchre ; Yen, the eternal mount tins shall heeonie Less than the everlasting hearts that loved them, And thou return to ruin — we to God." Two iiiilcs from Wrokey lies Wells, that small but beau- tifully situated cathedral city. It derives its name from its wells, chiefly from the unfathomable one, which rises in the garden close to the Bishoj)'s palace A current of the clearest, coldest spring; water j^ushes up from the abyss WELLS CATHKDBAL, WEST FRONT. profound, filling constantly an opening ten yards in diame- ter, fills the moat which surrounds the palace, where large trout lazily roll, and then rushes swiftly down the open kennels of the streets to join the Axe. Bishop Jacobin built both the palace and the cathedral about six hundred years ago. The cathedral is a beautiful building, rich in sculptured ornament and sacred story. 102 HERE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. The most conspicuous object as you look southward from Wells is the Tor of Glastonbury, which rises tive hundred feet above the level, and has a beautiful tower on its sum- mit, (me of the (|uaint sculptures of which is St. Michael holding the scales, with the Bible in one, the devil in the other, who proves light weight, though another tiend slyly, but all in vain, hangs on to his tail. m (JLASTONBL'RY T(IK. It was on this hill, in 1538, that Richard Whiting, the sturdy abbot, was drawn on a hurdle, hanged and quartered. His head being set upon the gateway of his abbey below, his quarters were bestowed on Wells, Bath, Ilchester and Bridgewater. The abbey itself lies hidden away behind the main street of the town, and is a very picturesque and beautiful ruin, rich in historic interest. If tradition is worth anything, it CHEDDAR. lo:} is the site of the earliest Christian Church in Britain. Here in this charming vale of Avalon, and under the nioulderinf^ ^rey abbey walls, lies the sacred dust of the renowned King Arthur. Edmund, Edgar and Edmund Ironsides are also buried here. King Canute gave the abbey a charter, and Tennyson has laid the scene of his beautiful epic, " The Search for the Holy Grail," here : *' If indeed I go To the island-valley of Avilion, Where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow, Nor ever wind blows loudly ; hut it lies Deep-nieadowed, happy, fair with orchard-lawns And bowery hollows crown'd with summer sea." If h «i '.'•i fl \r:v CHAPTER V. TINTERN AND CHEPSTOW. /'AN the iiioriiini; foUowin^^ our dt'li^htfui visit to old ^-^ CluMUbir, we took tlio train to Hcdwiek ; tlicncc W(^ proceeded by steamer across tlie mouth of the Severn, and then l)y I'ail again to Chepstow. This town is small and pleasantly situated on the Ri\ei' Wye, and can boast of luiving the highest tide in Europe, often rising fifty, and sometimes seventy, feet. A fine railway bridge crosses the river, designed by Brunei, combining the principles of Telford's suspension and Ste])henson's tubular l)ridges. But as we are bound foi' Tintei'u first, we sliall leave what we have to say of this old place until we rt'turn. Like prudent anlowing of the coachman's horn hurried I I u W^ f ; -S > » 106 HERE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. US l)uck, and wf were soon scrainblin*; up to oui* places with five other outsiders, aiuon^ whom was a tall Yankee from Vei'mont. Our horses were fine, spirited beasts, and were impatiently champing their bits. " These are j^ood hoi"ses of yours, Hobbs," I said. " Aye, sir, that tliey be : them leadei's '11 bring me eighty guineas apiece, sir, any dav I sav the word. But vou see, sii-, I likes a good 'orse as well as the next man, sir. Whoa, there!" Hol)bs, while this brief conversation was going on, had been (piietly gathering up his reins, and when they were well in hand, the man at tlie leaders' heads stepped aside, and we were off. We all ducked our heads as we dashed From the town under the old gateway', but there was no need of it, for the arch was high enough, although it did not look so. With all the modern improvements of locomotion tlu're is no mode of travel so exhilarating as the coach, par- ticularly in a country like England, where a good deal that one wishes to see is compi"esse