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J / 'tii---^?ntviir'*ir* I 1 '•> / I 1 '•• t »' ' m ■^ '' !*■? ^ '^: k '■- a o JQ w (« X E o X at o X THE SOU^VENIR GUIDE TO HALIFAX. E p >< X ILLUSTRATED BY WM. GILL KNIGHT & CO., HALIFAX, N. S. -V..?* J^-':- '■ - ■*- ' '•'-^'- ' ■ ■-'-■ '-'■■■ 837 im-iMk^amfiitai^ LIST OF ILLUSTBATIONS. Halifax, fbom ths Habbob Ihmii^neec Half-Title ; . , 9 CiTT Hall, facino thb Pabaob .......... 12 St. Mast's Cathedral ............. 14 The Little Dutch Chubch 15 Young Men's Christian Association Building ..... 18 Academy of Music 20 Northwest Arm 21 Post*Officb and CustoM'Housb . . . . . . . . . . 23 Admibaltt House . 25 Intercolonial Railway Station .......... 81 Provincial Building 84 Freemason Hall 36 Pond, Public Gardens . 41 Point Pleasant Pabk . . . ... . . 48 The Toweb 44 Macnab's Island 46 Bedfobd Basin • 49 Plan of the Cmr . . * * Facing pag9 11 Halifax and its Neighborhood. GENERAL INFORMATION. ALIFAX, capital of the Province of Nova Scotia, is situated on the finest harbor in the North At- lantic. It is distant, by rail, from Portland, Me., 618 miles ; from Boston, 726 miles ; from New York, 939 miles. By sea, Portland is 340 miles, or 24 to 28 hom-s ; Boston, 378 miles, or 33 to 36 hours ; New York, 542 miles, or 48 to 53 hours ; and Baltimore, 860 miles, or 72 to 82 hours. By Intercolonial Railway, St. John, Nevr Brunswick, is 277 miles ; Quebec, 678 miles ; MontresJ, 850 miles. Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, by rail and steamer, 97 miles ; St. John's, Newfoundland, by sea, 48 hours. 12 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Population, including Dartmouth, 40,000. V - Government. Halifax is governed by a Mayor and City Council, composed of eighteen aldermen, tlu'ee from each of the six wards into which the city is divided. The management of the Water Works, Streets, Internal Health, and City Property is in the hands of the Board of Conunissioners of City Works, composed of six alder- HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 18 men. The Public Gardens are managed by Commission- ers appointed by the City Council, six being aldermen, and four, citizens. Point Pleasant Park is managed by a Commission of eleven members, of whom the Mayor is one, and six are aldermen. r - ^^ ^ Fire Department. — The Fire Department is con- trolled by a board of Fire-wards, ten in number. The members of the department are all volunteers. Garrison. — Halifax is the headquarters of the Im- perial forces in British North America. The garrison is the only one in the Dominion composed of regular troops. It consists of a regiment of the Line, of a bat- tery of the Royal Artillery, of two companies of the Royal Engineer Corps, of one company of Submarine and Torpedo Engineers, of detachments of the Com- missariat and Transport Corps, of the Ordnance Store, of the Hospital Corps, besides the Medical and Army Pay Departments. The Commander-in-chief is a Gen- eral, who in the absence from the Dominion of the Gov- ernor-General acts as Administrator of the Government. He has a military secretary, two aides, and eight other staff-officers, together with a military chaplain. Naval Station. — Halifax is also the principal station of the North American and West Indies squadron of the Royal Navy. It is a Vice-Admiral's command, and the flagship remains in port during the greater part of the summer, with some of the other vessels of the squadron. . , . ,. . - ^ : ' u HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Political. — The Provincial Parliament meets in Halifax every winter, generally about Februaiy. It con- sists of the Lieutenant-Governor (salary $9,000), who is appointed by the Federal authorities, of a Legislative Council of eighteen members, and of a Legislative As- sembly of thirty-eight members. The Executive Council is composed of three ministers, heads of departments, and of four members without portfolio. Halifax, city and county, returns three members to the Legislative As- sembly, and is represented in the Federal Parliament by two members in the Senate, and two in the House of Commons. Ecclesiastical. — It is the seat of the oldest Bishopric in the Colonies, the Diocese of the Church of England comprising the Provinces of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. The see was erected on the 12th of August, 1787. It is also the seat of the Roman Catholic , Archbishopric of Halifax. The Presbyterian Church has its financial agency here, and its Theo- logical Hall. There are thirty- eight St. Mary's Cathedral. churchcS and chapcls in HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. l6 the city and suburbs. The only noteworthy one, ar- chitecturally, is St. Mary's . x * (Roman Catholic) Cathe- dral. St. Luke's (Church / M^ of England) is the pro- f^l^^^ ^^m^--^^^ cathedral, and a cathedral is proposed as a memorial of the centenary of the ^tSSBS^'' Colonial Episcopate. St. Paur8(Church of England) is historically the most in- ^,^ ^.^^.^ ,^^^, ^.^^^^ teresting. The Church of England has twelve churches and chapels ; the Roman Catholic, five ; the Presbyterian, eight ; the Methodist, seven ; Baptist, six ; Universalist, one. Churches. Church op England. St. Luke|s (Pro-Cathedral) Morris Street. St. Paul's Barrington Street. St. George's Brunswick Street. St. Mark's . . . . . . . ... Russell Street. St. Stephen's (Bishop's Chapel) . . . Robie Street. St. Matthias' Mission . . w . . . . Windsor Street. St. Alban's Chapel . . . . . . . . Tower Road. St. Augustine's Mission ...... Northwest Arm. . St. James' Mission Dutch Village. 16 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. St. John's (Village Church) .... Three-Mil(i House. Trinity Jacob Street. Garrison Chapel Brunswick Street. Christ Church Dartmouth. RoMiy '^ii'OLio. St. Mary's Cathedral . . .v.^^^. . Spring Garden Road. St. Patrick's . Brunswick Street. St. Joseph's Gottingen Street. Chapel of the Snored Heart Spring Garden Road. St. Agnes . Dutch Village. Presbyterian. St. Matthew's . . . . Pleasant Street. St. Andrew's Tobin Street. St. John's Brunswick Street Fort Massey Tobin Street. Chalmers* Barrington Street. North Park Street ........ North Park Street. Grove Church . ... . . . . . . Richmond. Northwest Arm Head N. W. Arm. St. James' . Dartmouth. *^ Methodist. f» J ..[''»'. Stref '. Kaye Street, iiiunswick Street. Beech Street. Robie Street. Dartmouth. Charles Street. American Methodist Episcopal .... Gottingen Street. Baptist. First Baptist .......;... Spring Garden Road. North Baptist ......... Oornwallis Street. HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, Free Baptist Starr Street. The Tabernacle Brunswick Street. CornwaiJiH Street Comwallis Street. Baptist Mission .... .... Quinpool Road. Dartmouth ... Dartmouth. • UnIVEBSa TST. [Church of the Redeemer . . ... Brunswick Street. 17 Educational. — The leading educational institutions ire : Dalhousie College and I liversity, Halifax County icadera} St. Patrick's Ron (Jatholic High School, [Brunswick -street School, Mon sj-street School, and other mblic schools; Girton Houst Ladies' School, and the [Presbyterian Ladies' College. Literary and Scientific. -^lie Nova Scotia Institute [of National Science, Nova Scoti?^ Historical Society. Benevolent and Charitable Institutions. — Tlie lore important of these are : Sch )1 for the Blind, In- [fants' Home, Deaf and Dumb Institution, City and Pro- vincial Hospital, City Poor-house, Home for the Aged, [Protestant Orphans' Home, Industrial School, Visiting [Dispensary, Society for the Prevention of Cruelty, St. *aul's Almshouse. National Societies aid in charitable efforts. — St. reorge's, the CLaritable Irish, and the North British. Clubs. — The Halifax; on Hollis Street, and the City, m Barrington, are both excellent clubs ; the Royal [ova Scotia Yacht Squadron has no club-house. Other 2 18 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. clubs for sport are : Studley Quoit Club, Curling Club, Wanderers* Amateur Athletic, Red-Cap Snow-Shoe Club, Wanderers' Boat Club. Reading- Rooms. — At the Queen and Halifax Hotels ; the Church of England Institute, 52 Granville Street ; and Y. M. C. Association, cor. Granville and Prince Streets ; the Merchants' Reading- room, Bedford Row. Libraries. — The Legis- lative Library, Province Building, and the Citizens' Free Library, Argyle Hall. Hotels. — The Halifax, Hollis Street ; Queen, HoUis Street; Waverley, Pleasant Street ; Carlton, Argyle Street; Albion; Royal. Banks. — Halifax Bank- ing Co., Water Street ; Nova Scotia, Hollis Street ; British North America, Hollis Street ; '"^' Merchants', Hollis Street ; Union, Hollis Street ; Montreal, Hollis Street ; People's, Duke Street ; Dominion Savings Bank, Granville Street. Newspapers. — Daily: Morning Chronicle, Citizen and Evening Chronicle, Morning Herald, Evening Mail, Acadian Recorder. Weekly : Royal Gazette, The Critic, Presbyterian Witness, Wesleyan Messenger. -:.W, HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, At Public Buildings. — Province Building, Hollis Street, jontaining tl\o Legislative Library (open daily from 10 kill 4) and Departmental Offices. Dominion Building^ containing the. Post-Office, Customs department, Shipping Registry, and Pi v^incial Museum. Government House, Hollis and Bamngton Streets. Court House, Spring Garden Road. Places of Interest. — The Citadel, commanding the 5ity and Harbor. , The Naval Yard, open to the public. The Public Gardens, open from 8 a. m. till dusk every lay. Military band every Saturday, from 4 till 6 p. m. Point Pleasant Park, with its walks and drives. The Green Market, Wednesday and Saturday mornings. St. PauVs Cemetery^ Pleasant Street. Camp Hill Cemetery, Summer Street. The Grain Elevator and Railway Wharf, Water Street. The Northwest Arm, accessible by land. Melville Island, Military Prison. The Dingle, Northwest Arm, and Dutch Village, 3 miles. Chain Lakes and Waterworks, 3 miles. MacnaFs Island, 3 miles. Bedford, 8 miles. Cow Bay, 11 miles. Waverley Gold-mines. Prince's Lodge, 4 miles. Montagu Gold-mines. Restaurants. — The London Fruit Store, Barring- m Street ; Mitchell's, George Street, for ices and mfectionery. 20 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Amusements. — The Academy of Music, Barrington Street, is generally open during the summer season forj theatrical performances ; Orpheus Hall, Granville Street, for concerts, lectures, etc. In winter, outdoor sports abound, — sleigh- driving through Point Pleas- ant Park and over the many fine roads leading out of the city ; toboggan- ning on the Citadel Hill and on Collins' Field ; snow- shoeing — there are two clubs, the Red Cap and the Royal Blue ; skating on the numerous ponds, on the Northwest Arm, and on the Dartmouth lakes, as well as in the Skating-Rink on Tower Road. The Curl'ng Club has an excellent rink, two blocks below the Skating-Rink. Military bands play frequently at the Skating-Rink. In summer, boating on the harbor, — boats may be hired at the North Slip, the Ferry Slip, and Luke's, Freshwater. The Wanderers' Boat Club have a boat- house and pier at the foot of Morris Street. The Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadfon*s station is at the Royal Engineer Yard, at the south end of Hollis Street. There J Academy of Music. HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 21 ire frequent races, accompanied by the Squadron steamer, m board which visitors are cordially welcomed. Ex- jursions by steamer to various points on the harbor lake place nearly every day. No tourist should fail to ifh-a- • - --fi-.S--; ; l-,,,..,.--'^>„i^^, - ^ ^^ m - -Id' r ■ Ir^ i'. ,^. ^ ■;^^;.-' ^'(kSV^'' '■ ■■ Northwest Arm. 22 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, see Halifax from the water ; the sail up and down the harbor is charming. Fishing may be obtained on many of the lakes and rivers close to the city ; sea-fishing is excellent, and boats, provided with lines, bait, etc., for the purpose, may be hired at the Ferry Slip. Cod, had- dock, and mackerel abound, and pollock can be taken with the fly in the Northwest Arm, affording capital sport. Lobster-spearing from boats by torchlight is a favorite pastime. ■ Cab-Fares. rM:.''l-^r:;:^^%--- ■ For each person for any distance up to half mile . . . . . '. . . 15 ♦* *♦ " one mile 25 *» *« •* one mile and a half .... 30 ** «« *t two miles 40 ** ** •♦ two miles and a half .... 45 " " " three miles 50 And all other distances in like proportion. , -7- One-half the above rates to be paid if returning in the same carriage. For all Cabs or Carriages hired by the hour: — For a One Horse Carriage per hour . . . . . . $0.75 For a Two " " . 1.00 And in like proportion for every fraction of an hour. To or from any Steamer or Passenger Vessel, or to or from any Hotel or Dwelling House to any Stage Office, Railway Station, or oUier place within one mile with half a cwt. of luggage . . . ,« ^« O.30 Over one mile, and not exceeding two miles 0.50 As above, with more than half cwt., and not exceeding two cwt. of lug- gage, within one mile, 50c. ; over one mile and not exceeding two miles, 75c. And in like proportion for all other distances or additional luggage. Children under one year old, free; over one year, and under twelve, half-fare. ;. ^^ - * For employment in the night, the fare shall be as parties may agree, not, however, to exceed one fare and a half. * ,. .►■# HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, 23 For distances, see plan of the city. Street Railway. — The main line runs from Rich- mond, at the northern extremity of the city, to Fresh- water, at the south- ern, traversing Lockman, Barring- ton, and Pleasant Streets. There is la branch from Bar- irington through [George, HoUis, and [orris Streets, join- |ing the main line )n Pleasant Street. ^he main line con- tinues from Fresh- '^ater, up Inglis Itreet, to the prin- cipal entrance to *oint Pleasant *ark, thence up to ^ower Road as far IS Victoria Road, lown Victoria to louth Park and Spring Garden lOad, down that street to Barrington Street, where the ^cuit is completed opposite the Academy of Music. Post-Office and Custom-House. 24 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. The cars run every fifteen minutes. The fare is five •cents. . .^ ,,.•..„,.. _^., . , Omnibuses. — A line of busses runs from the Post Office to the Dutch Village. ■ HISTORY AND GENERAL DESCRIPTION. .-■V\ Halifax was founded on the 21st June, 1749, by an expedition under the command of Hon. Edward Corn- wallis. Governor of Nova Scotia. In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachusetts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scotia, partly in prospect of com- mercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of thirteen transports and the sloop-of-war " Sphinx" arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,376 colonists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July, and was named in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submission ; but in 1751 the suburb of Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. Five hundred! Germans settled here in 1751-52 ; but it was found diffi- cult to preserve the colony, since so many of its citizens HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 26 passed over to the New England provinces. The great fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against Louisboiirg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval station. Representative government was established in • * 3 nm g^i-i i^H"TM'''''^^!S**"'"'|J'';r*-~" ■ A ■■ W( ^ "' ;' °" * » ^ • |^^^^^P^^"^^'«%f^i '■" v'"**" " • ' - ,. '- ■' - ■■■ ■ '..^. >^"-.--'-^^- ;-..^ V'> ' '■ ■ r ' v.- . '•" i p. •.£!►-• i,H ' V ( -'Wit, *^ --t-^Vv ;• <■- .^: ■% nr'' ^, , . '^ 11 ii«v u^' i"^.^ P ' 1 v.->^ ■- ■ .-.T^f^gBSKa w..-^ ■- .. "= ' ■T!a.V»w««t-rt^^ A ^ ■ "'"'■gnu J., „ ■ r^r-.T.'-;- ■■-. , Admiralty House. [1758, and the Parliament of 1770 remained in session for fourteen years ; while Halifax was made one of the jhief stations whence the Royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American Colonies. After the ;lose of the Revolutionary War many thousands of jxiled Loyalists took refuge here; and the wooden ^alls and towers with which the city had been fortified 96 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edward. The ancient palisade wall included the space between the present Salter^ Barrington, and Jacob Streets and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Government House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. The harbor of Halifax, or Chebucto Bay, extends from a line drawn from Chebucto Head on the western shore to DeviPs Island on the eastern, up to the Narrows, which are spanned by a railway bridge. Beyond the Narrows is Bedford Basin, formerly easily accessible to ships of the largest tonnage, and a favorite resort of yachts. The harbor proper is six miles long, and on an average one mile wide. There is deep water all the way up, and the largest vessels can lie alongside the wharves at any state of the tide. The anchorage is ex- cellent, being protected against every wind by the trend of the shores and by Macnab's and George's Islands. The defences of the place are very strong. York Redoubt, which is also a signal station for ship- ping, is a powerful fort on the top of a high bluff, and crosses its plunging fire with that of a redoubt on Macnab's Island. Forts Ogilvie and Cambridge in Point Pleasant Woods, the Point Battery, Fort Clarence on the Eastern Passage, and George's Island, HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 27 which is one large fort, complete the sea defences ; while the citadel commands not only the harbor but the land side. The city is situated upon a peninsula four and a half miles long, two miles wide, and covers about eight square miles, the city proper extending over three miles in length. The ridge, of which the citadel forms the (highest point, rises from the sea-level at Freshwater, and [falls away again to the level of Bedford Basin beyond [Richmond at the northern end, and at the Dutch Vil- lage near the head of the Northwest Arm. The city is milt mainly on the eastern slope, and thus presents a )icturesque appearance from the hai'bor. It is laid out [in squares, the streets running at right angles, and fol- lowing pretty closely the four cardinal points. There [are about 160 streets and lanes. The houses are mostly milt of wood ; but within " the brick district," as it is [called, which comprises the business portion of the city, lo new building of wood can be erected. This law, [however, is ingeniously evaded. Many of the streets ire lined with shade-trees ; and the numerous private grounds, gardens, and fine hardwood trees which abound In all parts of the city, add considerably to its beauty. )ne of the finest bits of street in this respect is Pleasant street, between Spring Garden Road and South Street. h\ the shores of the Northwest Arm are handsome private •esidences and grounds, the owners of which have sea- bathing, boating, and fishing at their doors. 28 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. The streets of Halifax are not paved, and dust is con- sequently not unusual in summer; but the system of watering-carts copes fairly well with this evil. The city is lighted by gas and the electric light, and all houses are supplied with water service. PRINCIPAL THOROUQHPARBS. Water Street is the commercial street of Halifax. Running, as its name indicates, along the shore of the harbor, it is bordered on its eastern side by stores, shops, and wharves. Starting at the south end, the first wliftrves of importance are the Dominion, where the coals of Cape Breton are landed from steamers and schooners ; next, at the foot of Salter Street, are Phelan\ where the Boston boats tie up, and CorheWs, the terminus of the New York liners and of the St. Pierre and Miquelon ser- vice. Farther along is the Queen^s wharf, which is Im- perial property, and from which the transport-steamer "Lily" plies to Macnab^s Island with companies of the regiments in garrison, or to the different forts with reliefs for the detachments on duty. Just above is the Ferry, City, or Market wharf, from which the steamers of the Halifax and Dartmouth Ferrv start. Here small boats ft* may be hired at the landing-slip. Close to the entrance to the Ferry wharf, on the cor- ner of Bedford Row and George Street, is the Market HALIFAX VD /T. NEIGHBORHOOD. 29 Buildingy a plain brick structure, surmounted by a clock- tower. A little to the north is the City Puilding, now [being replaced by a brick and granite City Hall on the Grand Parade. The City Civil Court and the Police Court, both presided over by a stipendiary magistrate, the Council Chamber, the City ClerVs and City Treasu- rer's office, and the Police headquarters are situated in this building. The Ordnance wharf is the depot for the big guns and ^ar materiel required for the armament of the forts, [ere, as on all other Imperial property, sentries are lounted. Bedford Row runs north and south between Water ind Hollis Streets, from Sackville Street to the Ord- lance. The United States Consulate is on this street, >etween Prince Street and the Post-Office, as is also the ierman Imperial Consulate. Beyond the City Build- ig is the Sailors' Home, now being replaced by another milding on the corner of Bell's Lane and Water Street. ~ Continuing along Water Street, the Cunard wharves Lnd stores are next met with. It is here that the Allan jine steamers to and from Liverpool, and in winter the [ewfoundland steamers, arrive and depart. Passen- gers by direct mail-steamers during the winter season md or embark at the Railway Wharfs a short distance irther up, where the cars r:n alongside the vessels, i'he Grain Elevator is situated at the entrance to the 80 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. .' wharf ; it is a Goveniment work. From this point half of the street is taken up by the railroad Hne, and the track has to be crossed to reach the Marine and Fisheries wharf, where the Dominion Government steamers and cruisers are fitted out. The buoy and light service is carried on from here. A short, distance above is the North Ferry Slip^ where boats may be had to visit the flagship and other vessels of the squadron. The charge is generally 25 cents per person for the trip to and from the ships. H, M. Naval Yard, an extensive property on the har- bor^ is next in order. It is surrounded on the land side by a high stone wall, and contains the landing-place where H. R. H. the Prince of Wales landed in 1860, and H. R. H. Princess Louise in 1878. There are extensive storehouses, machine-shops, coal depots, arsenals, maga- zines, residences for the officials, a hospital, a large parade-ground, etc. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was invaluable as a station for the Royal Navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the American coast. Many tro- phies of the War of 1812 were formerly kept here (as similar marine mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy-Yards), including the figure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, the "Chesapeake," which was captured in 1813, off Boston HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 31 Harbor, by the British frigate " Shannon," and was brought into Hahfax with great rejoicing. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the su- Iperintendent will generally admit visitorb upon presenta- tion of their cards. . * Intercolonial Railway Station. Opposite the Dockyard is the terminus of the Inter- jolonial Railway, the passenger-station being a large biick milding, lighted at night by electricity, but with no great )retensions to architectural beauty. Lockman Street md Water Street run into one at the bridge beyond the ftation building. On the right, just beyond this bridge, HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. is a powder-magazine, and another is to be seen inside the palisade of the Wellington Barracks on the left Continuing along in a northerly direction, the visitor will see the works on the Dry Dock, now in process of constniction. It will be a first-class structure of granite and cement, capable of receiving the largest vessel afloat. Its dimensions are : Length on top, 580 feet ; length on bottom, 560 feet ; w^idth on top, 102 feet ; width on bot- tom, 70 feet. Draught of water over sills at ordinary high-water spring-tides, 30 feet. A little way beyond is the Nova Scotia Sugar Befinery, and farther still the Beep-water Terminus of the Intercolonial Railway, where steamers and sailing-vessels may be seen at all times loading and unloading their cargoes. This suburb bears the name of Bichmond. e - On Gottingen Street, two streets above Water Street, are situated St. Joseph!s Church (Roman Catholic) and Convent, and close by is St. Marias Church (Church of England). To the south, and occupying the whole slope of the hill between Gottingen and Water Streets, are the Wellington Barracks, built of brick. The upper range of buildings contains the men^s quarters, guard- rooms, etc. ; the lower range is officers! quarters, mess- rooms, etc. There is a beautiful view from all parts of the Barracks over the harbor and Bedford Basin. South of the Barracks is Admiralty House, the shore residence of the admiral in conmiand. It is a plj^in, substantial residence of stone, covered with ivy on HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 38 one side, and commanding a splendid view. There is a semaphore and signal-station, by means of which the admiral communicates with the ships lying below. H. R. H. Princess Louise resided here on her first arrival in Canada in 1875. The Naval Cefnetery lies lower down the slope, on Lockman Street. Hie Deqf and Dumb Institution is also on Gottingen Street. Hollis and Granville Streets are the two principal fiioroughfares, on which the best stores may be found. Hollis starts from South Street, and at the junction of the two is the Boyal Engineer Yard, familiarly known as the Lumber Yard. The offices of the Commandant of the Corps are situated here, together with store and boat- houses, workshops, quarters for sergeants, etc. It is con- nected by an electric cable with George*s Island, which lies in front of it, in mid harbor. It is also the station of the Boyal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron; all yacht races starting from and finishing here. Immediately to the south, and bounded by the Yard, are the Gas Works which supply Halifax. Proceeding along Hollis, Morris Street is crossed ; and after passing a block, the tourist has on his left hand Government Home and grounds, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor. North of this is the residence of the Bishop of Nova Scotia. In the next block are situated the two leading hotels, the Halifax and the Queen, both comfortable and well-appointed houses. The Halifax was in former days used as a barrack by the Imperial Government. Farther 8 ¥ HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Pi nortli, on the same side of the street as the two hotels, is the Bell Telephone Exchange, and in the next block, on the west side, is the Western Union Telegraph Office, with the Halifax Cluh, a handsome stone building, near it. Provincial Building. On the comer of Hollis and Prince Streets is the Queen Building, burned down in 1881 with loss of life ; on the opposite comer, the elegant building of the Union Bank. The whole block opposite this is occupied by the Parlia- ment (or Provincial) Building, — a massive structure of freestone. Opposite the Granville-street entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosy little hall, and supplied with works on law, history, and science. In the north ^1^ HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 35 part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assembly ; and on the south is the Chamber of the Legislative Council. In the former are portraits of Joseph Howe, who won responsible government for Nova Scotia, and of Judge Johnstone, one of the most prominent politicians of his day. In the legislative Council Chamber are full-length portraits of King ; George III. and Queen Charlotte ; on the north wall are Chief-Justice Blowers, King William IV., Judge Hali- Iburton, Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West)^ and [Sir Brenton Haliburton ; of Nova Scotia^s military leroes. Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and >ir W. Fenwick Williams, of Kars ; and of King George [I. and Queen Caroline. ■.h ^^ • ; The new Dominion Building is east of the Parliament [Building, on Hollis Street, and is 140 by 70 feet in area. [It is built of brown freestone, in an ornate style of archi- [tecture, and cost $120,000. The lower story is occupied I by the Post- Office, Money-Order Office, and Customs De- \parfment ; and the third floor contains the Provincial Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, rep- tiles, fossils, minerals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Op- posite the entrance is a gilt pyramid which represents the amount of gold produced in .the Province between 1862 and 1870, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued at $3,373,431. 36 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. On the comer of HoUis and George Streets is the hand- some building of the Merchants^ Bank ; next to it is the Bank of Nova Scotia ; and op- posite the latter the Bank of British North Americttj both of which are lodged in hand- some stone edifices. The street runs into Water Street, two blocks farther on, Granville Street begins at Salter y just south of the Hali- fax Hotel, and also runs into Water Street, opposite the Ordnance. The first build- ing of note on this street is Freemason Hally of stone and brick. In the same block is Freemason Hall. ^^^^ unpretentious Orpheus Hall, formerly a Baptist meeting-house, converted into a concert-room. In the next block is situated the Church of England Institute, with reading-room, billiard-room, etc. ; and on the comer of Prince, the Z. M. C.A. Build- ing, — a handsome and imposing structure. The most fre- quented portion of Granville Street lies north of George Street, and contains the principal stores. Pleasant, which begins at Freshwater, near the sea- side entrance to Point Pleasant Park, has already been re- ferred to. It lies immediately above HoUis and Granville HALIFAX AND ITS NEIOHBORHOCD, 37 Streets, and has many handsome private residences. Be- tween South and Moms Streets, on the left hand, is Girton louse, the leading Young Ladies' Private Seminaiy ; and immediately above it, the Presbyterian Ladies^ College; lorth of this, again, Waverley Home, a comfortable hotel. Opposite Government House is St. PmiPs Old Churchyard, rith a freestone arch surmounted by a lion, dedicated to |ihe memory of two Nova Scotian officers killed in the )rimea. St. Matthew^ s Church (Presbyterian) is north of. rovemment House ; next comes the Brigade Office ; and lorth of this the Academy of Music, — a brick building rell designed, and cu,pable of seating eleven hundred peo- kle. Opposite is St. Mary's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), a landsome stone edifice with granite fa9ade and spire, in rhich is hung a peal of bells which chime on Sundays. ^he plain wooden building at the comer of the street is pie Glebe House, the official residence of the Roman Jatholic Archbishop of Halifax. Above the cemetery is the Court House, a large stone building, and behind it the County Jail. Pleasant Street here changes its name to Barrington. *roceedin^ north, the visitor will find the City Club on lis left ; and farther on he will come to St. PauTs Church [Church of England), which is the oldest church in the ;ity. The walls are covered with tablets to the memory )f Imperial officials, distinguished Haligonians, and )thers. It has been used as a cathedral church by suc- lessive bishops, but St. LuMs, on Morris Street, has 38 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. been for some years past the pro-cathedral. St PauPs faces on the Grand Parade, from which, in former days, a salute of one hundred guns was fired annually on the anniversary of the settlement of the city. On the northern end of the Grand Parade stood Ddhomie College^ founded by the Earl of Dalhousie while Govemor-Ger ^ eral of Canada. It has been largely endowed by George Munro, of " Seaside Library " fame. The College author- ities are erecting a new building in the southwest portion of the. city, the present one being too small for the re- quirements of the institution ; and the new City Hall is to occupy the site thus vacated. The Citadel is most quickly reached by ascending Sackville Street, at the head of which is the Halifax County Academy, a large brick building. The citadel itself covers the summit of the hill upon which the city is situated, and is 250 feet above the level of the sea. A beautiful and varied view is obtained from diiferent points of the works, as the citadel commands the whole country round. The citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school; though of late years the Government has bestowed mucl> attention on the works at George's Island, York Re- doubt, the Point, and Macnab's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The works were commenced by Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He employed in the service HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 39 a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the British and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massive masonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within are said to be bomb-proof. During the years 1873-74 the artillery was changed, and the previous mixed armament to a great degree replaced by muzzle-loading Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot, with points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk outside the circuit of the ramparts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the best prospect is that from the southeast bastion, overlook- ing the crowded city on the slopes below ; the narrow har- bor with its shipping ; Dartmouth, sweeping up toward Bedford Basin ; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates ; Macnab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the outer harbor, with its fortified points ; and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns ; at the south end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery ; at the north end the Pavilion Barracks, — quarters for married men. The Garrison Chapelf a plain wooden building, stands on 40 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, i'Wr?^'< the comer of Brunswick and Cogswell Streets. The ser- vice on Sunday mornings is very attractive to strangers^ as the staff and troops of the garrison, with band, attend in full uniform. Behind the chapel is the Military Hos- pital. Farther north, on Brunswick Street, is the Church of the Redeemer (Universalist), on one side, and a Methodist Church on the other. Beyond, at the comer of Com- wallis, is St., George^ s Church (Church of England), re- markable for its circular form. On the comer of Gerrish is a cemetery, now disused, in which stands the quaint Little Butch Church, erected as a Lutheran place of wor- ship in 1761 by the early German immigrants. West of the citadel stretches the Common, used for military parades. South of the Common lies Camp Hill Cemetery, and east of this the Public Gardens, which front on Spring Garden Road. They are beautifully laid out, and form one of the greatest summer attractions of the city. At the westem extremity a lawn-tennis ground is laid out ; there is a pond surrounded by shrubbery and flowers, and inhabited by water-fowl. On Saturday after- noons a military band plays from 4 till 6. Concerts are given at intervals in the evening, when the Gardens are lighted with the electric light. Opposite the Gardens are the grounds and building of the Convent of the Sacred Heart, and at the end of the street is St. Stephen^ s (or the Bishop's) Chapel (Church of England), on the edge of the site for the new cathedral. On the other side of the road is a Methodist Chapel To HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 41 the south, in the next block, is the new Lalhousie Col- legCj and on the ground situated between Morris and South Streets, the vast Poor-hoiise built by the city to Pond, Public Gardens. replace the edifice formerly standing in the same place, which was burned down in 1884, with a loss of thirty- six lives. East of the Poor-house is t'ae Victoria General ! • fl '•■I 49 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Hospitalj and opposite to it, on the north, the Exhibition /hiildinr/j UHod in winter as a skating-rink. The School for the Blind is on the square between South Park, Tower, Morris, and South Streets. Visitors are admitted on Wednesdays after three o'clock. Continuing down Morris Street, St. Luke's Cathedral^ a very plain wooden building, is seen on the left. On Spring Garden Road, at the comer of Argyle Street, is an open square planted with trees, formerly used as a burying-ground for inmates of the Poor-house, before that building was removed to its present position. Opposite is the Militia Brigade Office^ and west of it the Drill Shedy beyond which is Bellevue House, formerly the official residence of the commander-in-chief of the gar- rison. Nearly opposite the Baptist Church, on the other side of the road, formerly stood Spring Garden Theatre, where the late K. A. Sothem (Lord Dundreary) made his debut on the boards. The Cotton Factory is situated on Kempt Road, at the north end of the city ; and some distance beyond, over- looking the Nfrrrows and Bedford Basin, is Eockhead, the City Prison. Point Pleasant Park, a favorite resort of the inhabi- tants of Halifax, may be reached either by Freshwater, taking the cars to the foot of Inglis Street, or continuing up IngHs to the foot of South Park, by Young Avenue, at the end of which stands a pair of gates of handsome design. The Park is Imperial property, but is leased to HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 43 the city for an in- definite number of years, at a nominal rent of a shilling. Oncc) a year all roads leading into it are closed for twenty-four hours, to maintain the ownership and pre- vent any possible claim to a public right of way. The Park lies along the shore of the harbor and of the Northwest Arm. I'he roads, originally made by the Royal Engineers, are kept in capital order, and enable the visitor to drive through all portions of the Park. There are very beautiful views of the harbor, the main, and the Northwest Arm, from different points. The masked forts and batteries which the visitor comes upon Point Pleasant Park. 44 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, unexpectedly, the ponds, the bold rock faces, the woody glens, the grassy swards, the footpaths straying through the thickest of the wilderness, all lend a chami to the locality which explains the reputation it possesses. The Prince ofWalei Tower ^ at the southern end of the ridge, is ^ ; a martello tower of the Crimean-war pattern, but is not now used as a fort. The Tower, Point Pleasant There is a ferry at Point Pleasant by which the visi- tor can cross to PurcelVs Cove, a charmingly situated set- tlement on the western shore, from which Falkland and ; ':,. 1 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 4ft Fork Bedouht may be reached. Just beyond the western limit of the Park stands the disused Fenitcntiary^ a forbid- ding granite structure, the inmates of which were some years ago removed to the new Maritime Provinces Peni- tentiary at Dorchester, New Brunswick. At tlie head of the Arm is Melville Island^ on which are the buildings of the Military Prison. During the War of 1812 Amer- ican prisoners were confined here. The Arm is Hned on both sides, but especially on the eastern shore, with handsome private residences. There is good sea-fishing and lobster-spearing. MacnaVs Island^ three miles long, is a favorite resort for picnics. It has a powerful battery, and on u sand- spit, Meagher's Beach, is a lighthouse. The military camp and rifle-range are situated at the southern end of the island. Southeast of Macnab's, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is Lawlor's Island, the quarantine station. Below Meagher's Beach stretch the Thrum Cap Slioals, on which H. M. frigate " Tribune " was lost in 1797, only a few souls being saved. Dartmouth. — On the eastern side of the harbor lies the thriving town of Dartmouth, connected with Halifax by a line of ferry-steamers, leaving every fifteen minutes. It has four churches, foundries, machine-shops, breweries, boat-building yards, etc. There are extensive rope-works on the ridge to the north of the town, and on the east of the town a large sliate factory, and a marine railway on the shore. The railway line, which crosses the Narrows 46 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. over a long pile bridge, runs along the shore, through the lower part of the town, and round the beautiful Bart- mouth Cove, to Woodside, where is a large Sugar Refinsry. About a mile and a half from the town, on the crest of the ridge overlooking the harbor, is the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane^ a ry large building, admission to which is obtained by application at the secretary's office in the Province Building. On the shore, at the entrance of the Eastern Passage, is Fort Clarence, a powerful work. The Eastern Passage is a long and nar- row strait with many shoals. In 1862 the Confederate cruiser " Tallahassee " was blockaded in Hali- fax Harbor by a squadron of Macnab's Island. HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 47 United States frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was not watched, since nothing but small fishing- craft had ever traversed it, and it was considered impas- sable for a steamer like the *' Tallahassee." But Captain Wood took advantage of the higli tide on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind Macnab's Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted block- ading fleet. , ^ The Montagu Gold-mines are four miles from Dartmouth. Cow Bay, which is reached by a seven miles^ drive along the shore of the Eastern Passage and through the woods, has a fine stretch of beach, where surf-bathing can be enjoyed. ., . : To the north of Dartmouth stretches a chain of lakes, the drive along which is very enjoyable. In winter these lakes afford excellent skating. ENVIRONS OP HALIFAX. One of the favorite drives from Halifax is to the Four- Mile House and along the shores of the Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of v/ater is five miles long and one to tlu'oe miles wide, with from eight to thirty-six fathoms of depth. It is entered by way of tlie Narrows, lead- in <^ from the harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200-330 feet in height, between which are ten square miles of secure anchoring ground. Four miles 48 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. from Halifax, on the west shore, is BGckingham (Four- Mile House), a pleasant summer resort. The Academy of Mount St. Vincent, a Roman Catholic ladies' school, is seen on the slope of the hill. Beyond Rockingham, on the right of the road, is Prince's Lodge, a remnant of the residence formerly occupied by H. R. H. the Duke of Kent. Sherwood, another Roman Catholic conventual school, lies on the left of the road near Bedford, which is also on the west shore, and has several summer hotels. In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the British N^rtli American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It v. is commanded by the Due d'Anville, and was composed of the line-of-battle ships Trident, Ardent, Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each ; the Northumberland, Carillon, Tigre, Leopard, and Renomm^e, 60 guns each; the Diamant, 50; M^gerc, 30 ; Argonaute, 26 ; Prince d'Orange, 26 ; the Parfait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and twenty-two other frigates, with thirty transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to " occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New England." The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anville reached Chebucto Bay (Halifax) on September 10 with only two ships of the line and a few transports. Six days later the unfor- tunate duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and dis- tress on account of the disasters which his enterprise had HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 49 suffered. Vice- Admiral d'Estournelle committed suicide ji few days later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and immense barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. Twelve hundred men had died from scurvy on Bedford Basin. ' K\ the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 French soldiers and 200-300 Micmac Indians died around the basin, and were buried near its quiet waters. October 13 the French fleet, num- 4 . ,.4..-.-. 50 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGFBORHOOD, bering five ships of the line and twenty-five frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack An- napolis Royal ; but another terrible storm arose while the vessels were off Cape. Sable, and s'^attered the re- mains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged to retire from the American waters. The Indians called Halifax Harbor CheJmctOy meaning " the chief haven ; " and the French named it Za Bale SainCf " on account of the salubrity of the air." Hammond^s Plains are seven miles west of Bedford, and were settled in 1815 by slaves brought away from the shore of Maryland and Virginia by the British fleets. Waverleyj with its gold-mines and powder-mills, is near Bedford. Southwest of the city are the Chain LakeSy from which Halifax is supplied with water. Applications for per- mission to fish in these lakes must be made at the office of the Board of Works, Bedford Row. A pretty drive is round the head of the Arm to the Dingle, where the visitor may alight and climb to one of the two look-outs, from which a beautiful view is had over the harbor and city. He may also ascend to the Bocking-Stone, which lies to the south and west, on the top of a prominent hill. HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 51 EXCURSIONS PROM HALIFAX. Within easy reach of the city are several points wor- thy of a visit, even if only a day or two be given them. The towns of Truro and Windsor, upon the line of the Intercolonial and the Windsor and Annapolis Railways respectively, and the charming watering-places of Mar- garefs Bay and Chester, lying on Margaret's Bay and Mahone Bay, will repay a run to them. Truro is reached in less than three hours by train. It is a thriving incorporated town of about 5,000 in- habitants, very wealthy for its size, and exceedingly enterprising and populous. It is situated at the head of Cobequid Bay, — a prolongation of the Basin of Minas, — into which Salmon River, which flows through the town, empties. The view is admirable, — a wide level plain, nearly surrounded by hills, the shimmer and glimmer of the bay, the diked marshlands, the woods fringing the slopes, and in the centre the pretty town itself, with its factories and public buildings. The whole country around is one of the finest agricultural districts in the Province, and the local agricultural exhibitions held at frequent intervals are largely attended by farmers from all parts. Truro is the county town of Colchester, and is also the seat of the Provincial Normal and Model Schools, the former of which turns out scores of teachers 62 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. to supply the wants of the numerous scholastic sections. The Normal School building, of brick, is a prominent feature on the main street ; it stands in well-kept grounds, in which has been erected a memorial to Dr. Forrester, the great promoter of common-school education in the Province. The Model School stands next to the Normal. Farther along, on the opposite side of the street, is the Post-Office, a large brick and stone structure of a nonde- script style of architecture, but well aiTanged internally for its purpose. The Court House, a very plain building, is still farther along. The handsomest church is St. John's (Episcopal), a stone structure with an elegant inte- rior, a particularly handsome timber roof, apsidal chancel, and fine stained-glass windows. The Exhibition Build- ing, used in winter as a Skating-Eink, is to be seen at the top of the hill on tlie other side of the railway-line. Truro has many handsome private residences, and is noted for its fine stores. It has several factories, nota- bly for woollens, condensed milk, hats, furniture, etc. Many beautiful drives may be enjoyed in different direc- tions, — one to Old Barns, which takes the visitor along the head of the bay; one to Penny' s Hill ; and a third to Riverside may be mentioned as the most attractive. Truro is the junction point for the eastern branch of the Intercolonial Railway ; it has an excellent system of waterworks, and is lighted by electricity. Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expulsion from Nova Scotia was HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 63 occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here and engaged in the peaceful pursuits of agricul- ture. ^^Windsor (4,000 inhabitants) enjoys the reputation of being one of the prettiest towns in Nova Scotia ; and the visitor who surveys it from the College hill on a fine summer day will fully indorse that opinion. Like Truro, it is surrounded by wood-clad liills, sloping down to the rich marshlands watered by the River Avon. The latter has been admirably described by Charles Dudley Warner in one of his happiest passages. " It is really," he sayr, "a broad arm of the basin, extending up to Windsor, and beyond in a small stream, and would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, — an ugly gash in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first'one way, and then the other, and then vanishes altogether." Another writer thus speaks of the Avon: "The tide was out, leaving miles of river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I looked back, when. 64 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. rr- ■■K ;. to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill running up with a powerful current." The principal object of interest is King's College^ an old wooden building on the top of a hill, with a fairly- good Enccenia Hall half way down the slope, and a de- cidedly good chapel at the other end. The College has recently been restored and modernized as far as possi- ble. It is the training-school for the Episcopal ministry in the Province. In the Encoenia Hall are collections of minerals, plants, coins, china, and a valuable library, rich chiefly in theological works, but containing also a few mediaeval MSS. and some fine editions from the famous presses of the Old World. King^s College is the oldest institution of the kind in Canada. It was founded in 1788, and received a royal charter from King George III. in 1802. The Patron of the University is the Archbishop of Canterbury, to whose approval all statutes, rules, and ordinances of the Board of Govern- ors are subject ; but the College is open to students of all denominations, and imposes no religious test either on entrance or graduation in any faculty, with the ex- ception of divinity. The President of the College must be a graduate in full orders of the Church of England. There are five professors. Not far from the College is Clifton^ formerly the resi- dence of the famous Sam Slick, — Thomas C. Halibur- ton, a judge in Nova Scotia, M. P. in England, — born at Windsor, 1797; died, 1865. The other objects of HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 55 interest are the railway-bridge across the Avon, the new post-office, the cotton-factory, the site of Fort Edward, an old earthwork from which a beautiful view is had over the surrounding country, the estuary of the Avon, and the Basin of Minas. The site of Windsor was called by the Indians Pisi- quid, " the Junction of the Waters," and the adjacent low- lands were settled at an early day by the French, who raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in this vicinity about the middle of the seventeenth century, but retired far into the interior at the time of the British conquest. Governor Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been cultivated and had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last century without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The Rhode- Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachu- setts formed Falmouth, and Windsor was granted to British officers and was fortified in 1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian population, and here was their principal church. Mr. Cozzens says : "I cannot recall a prettier vil- lage than this. If you doubt my word, come and see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Mi- nas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nova Scotia. 56 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." Another writer has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wide and beautiful environing meadows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the south and west." Chester, forty-five miles to the west of Halifax, is reached by road or sea. The trip by water is a very pleasant one, occupying about five hours. The steamer proceeds down the beautiful harbor of Halifax, past the various ports or headlands and islands, Meagher's Beach with its light. Thrum Cap with its shoals, on which, in 1797, was lost the frigate " Tribune," which struck, floated off, drifted across towards Herring Cove, and sank with her crew ; the steamer " Cortes ; " and more than one sail- ing-vessel. On the height above Herring Cove — western shore — is seen the cairn raised to the memory of George Brown, the famous oarsman, who was a native of the Cove. After passing Chebucto Head, the Samhro Ledges^ with the island of the same name in the centre of the group, are opened. A fine lighthouse marks the dangers. There have been many wrecks on and about the Ledges and the neighboring coast. In 1779 the British war- vessels ** North" and "Helena" were wrecked near Sambro and 170 men were drowned. The ** Hussar " frigate struck on the Sisters and sank, but through the coolness of her captain and officers every man was saved in the boats, landed at Portuguese Cove, and marched to Halifax. HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, 67 The steamship '* Daniel Steinmann " was lost on the same place a few years ago, with great loss of life. Mars Head derTves its name from the fact that the British line-of-battle ship ** Mars," 70 guns, was wrecked upon its black ledges. In 1779 the American war- vessel "Viper," 22, attacked H. M. S. "Resolution" just off Sambro, and captured her after a long and desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Just beyond Mars Head, in the indentation of the coast, is Golden Rule Rock, on which the " Atlantic " struck and went to pieces on the 1st of April, 1873, with a loss of 481 lives. r * / > o Cape Sambro was named by the mariners of St. Malo early in the seventeenth century ; and it is thought that the present form of the name is a corruption of St. Cen- drCj the original designation. The ancient Latin book called the Novus Orhis (published by Elzevir, Amsterdam, 1633) says that the islands between Cape Sambro (Sesamhre) and Mahone Bay were called the Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been massacred by the heathen Indians. i^ Beyond Prospect lies Margaret's Bay, a noble sheet of water, separated from Mahone Bap by the wooded penin- sula of Aspatogan. Before reaching the entrance of Mahone i3ay the steamer passes Ironhound Island, a rock half a mile long w^hich rises sheer out of the sea. Out of the trees which cover its surface is seen rising the tower of the lighthouse. Running between the two Tancooks, 58 HAL/FAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD, the beautiful bay with its numerous islands lies spread out to the view. Big Tancook is the largest island in the bay, and is about two miles long. It contains 500 inhabitants, who are engaged in fanning and fishing. Between this point and Mount Aspatogan is Little Tancook Island, with sixty inhabitants. These islands were devastated in 1756 by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. Oak Islandy on tlie western shore, is celebrated as one of the places where it is alleged that Captain Kidd's treasure is hidden. About eighty years ago three New England- ers claimed to have found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the same eflfect. Digging down, they passed regular layers of flag-stones and cut logs, and their successors penetrated the earth over one hundred feet farther, finding layers of timber, charcoal, putty, West-Indian grass, sawed planks, and other curious substances, together with a quaintly carved stone. The pit became flooded with water, and was pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants invested in the enterprise, and great stone drains were discovered leading from the sea into the pit. After much money and labor was spent in the excavation, it was given up about ten years ago, and the object of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mystery. Beautiful little settlements dot the shores. Mahonc Harbor shows in the west, nestled in woods and sur- rounded by well-tilled fields. Aspatogan rises on the HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 59 east, and the entrance to Deep Cove is caught sight of. The fogs which frequently settle down on the coast often do not enter the bay, and chaiining sailing may be enjoyed inside the Tancooks while outside is shrouded in mist. In June, 1813, the line-of-battle-ship "La Hogue " and the frigate '^Orpheus ^* chased the American privateer •* Young Teazer " in among the islands. Though com- pletely overpowered, the Yankee vessel refused to sur- render', anc^ she 'vas blown up by one of her officers. The whole crew, ninety-four in nimiber, were destroyed in this cat"f^trophe. The vi' lag 3 of Chester is prettily situated at the head of tho Bay, on the slope of a hill. It was settled about the year 1760 by 144 New Englanders, who brought an outfit of cattle and farming tools. In 1784 thev were joined by a large number of Loyalist refugees ; but these were from the American cities, and soon wearied of farming, and returned out of exile. It now has about S j'^ inhabitants. ' *iliere is capital freshwater and sea fishing to be had in Chester and neighborhood, good bathing, and of course sailing and boating. The attractions of the place have been very well described by Mr. Hallock in his " Fishing Tourist." He says : '* Three pleasant seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands some stores. There is a large tree, under which I have pL ,d 60 HALIFAX AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. some seats ; and off the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners in any quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumer- able islands in the bay, where one can bathe and picnic to heart's content. There are sailing-boats for lobster- spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape." The return-trip may be made by coach, leaving Ches- ter at 10.30 A. M., and arriving in Halifax at 6 p. m. The road skirts the bay, affording numerous beautiful views of the islands. It then crosses the Aspatogan Peninsula through thick woods, emerging on Margaret's Bay (visited and named by Champlain in May, 1603) at Hubbard's Cove^ — a, small fishing settlement and watering-place, — running from there along the head of this bay, opening up exquisite vistas, crossing streams full of trout and salmon, rounding rocky bluffs and wooded crests, with an ever-changing panorama of forest, field, and water, till it leaves the sea and strikes inland across the woods and ban'ens, to enter Halifax at the head of the North- 'vest Arm. -'^^ ^■■::.^^- "'■'::i-_ ry^-^s ':■:': ::/ t-^^v..'-. »A>*# ^r^l.: 'i > .--'^:-r ■•^*-^'- •*-*'^ •t. * -■>'■ '^- ■ ,.■-.•-,-,?. « Army and Navy Depot, 99 Established 1832. JAMES SCOTT & CO., f DIRECT IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN The finest brancfs of CHAMPAGNE, MOSELLE, and SAUMUR. Sparkling and still HOCK and BURGUNDY, SAUTERNE, CHABLIS, Clarets (light and fuJI-bodied). Sandeman's and fine old " Newfoundland " Ports (white and red). Old "Amontillado," and other pale, brown, and golden SHERRIES. Choice MADEIRA and MARSALA. - t,:- i^ m Hennessy's and MartelTs oldest pale and dark BRAN- DIES », **, *#*, and V. 0. ^^ Very choice old Scotch and Irish Whiskeys, — the finest brands imported. "^ Best Plymouth, London " Old Tom," and Hollands GIN. •■---.■' .--■ ■ ■ '- A full line of the best LIQUEURS. WESTERN SHORE LINE HALIFAX AND YARMOUTH, Via Intermediate Ports. The S. S. " CITY OF ST. JOHN " leaves PICEFORD & BLACK'S WHARF EVERY THURSDAY MORNING, at 7 o'clock, FOR TARMOUTH, OAIiUNO AT Lminbiirgi U?0ipool, Lookeporti Sholbami, and Barringtoa, Oonn«otliic At Tarmonth with the new steel •toamer "TABMOUTQ " FOR BOSTON, AND LEAVES YARMOUTH EVERY MONDAY MORNING FOR HALIFAX. I- •it';.: PICKFORD & BLACK, AOENTS, HAIJFAX, N. S. L. J. MYLIUS. Betail Dispensing Chemist, DEALER IN FINEST ENGLISH DRUGS AND CHEMICALS. Patent Medicines, Perfmnery, Toilet Requiiites, etc PHYSICIANS' AND FAMILY RECIPES ACCURATELY PREPARED. CENTRAL DRUG STORE, 191 MOLLIS STREET (0pp. Old Province Building), HALIFAX, N. S. Open on Sundays : 9 30 to 10.30 a.m., 2 to 3 and. 8.30 to 9.30 p.m. 1 GENTLEMEN'S ^FaRNiSHiNG ' Shop,P ^ .'^^ 105 GRANVILLE (STREET, HALIFAX, N. S. ''■W'k FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH FURNISHINGS ALWAYS KEPT IN STOCK. -.^^ :.-1t Established 1856. F. C. ELLIOT. « M. S. BROWN & CO., (Established A.D. 1840) MA.NUFA.CTURI]SrGI- l@w@II@rs mi Mw^mMiku^ IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN FINE WATCHES, Diamond and Gem Rings, Choice Jewelry, Sterling Silver Ware, . French and other Clocks. SUPEBIOB ELECTMO'PLATMD GOODS^ INCLUDING NOVELTIES IN ••S.. >..-?'• FINE SPECIMENS OF MOUNTED POTTERY AND GLASS. FINE SPECTACLES, EYE-CLASSES, OPERA AND .^ FIELD CLASSES, Ac. Visitors will find our stock and facilities varied and complete. Special attention given to Fine Watch Mepa-iring, French Clock Work, and Jewelry order a, including repairs, >: v. 129 GBANVILLE STREET. The QdEEN Hertu, %-' HALIFAX, N. S. lSS. A VISITORS to Halifax will find the Queen Hotel the best ^ house in the city, being fitted throughout with all modern improvements and furnished with new and handsome furniture. The cuisine is the best of any hotel in the Maritime Provinces. Sample Rooms a Specialty. Private and public parlors ; gents* writing and reading rooms ; building of solid brick and stone, with improved patent fire- escapes. The location is convenient to Post Office, Telegraph Office, Parliament Buildings, and the principal business houses of the city. A fine view of the harbor is obtained from its windows. A. B. SHERATON, Manager. N. B. — Wr.. the undersigned, be. ig at present staying at the Queen Hotel, can cordially corroborate the above. Chas. H. Knight, livston. C,20. E. Robinson, Waterloo, P. Q. John D. S. Gourlie, Chicago, 111. E. W. Armour, ilansas City, Mo. A. S. Brooks, Cleveland, Ohio. G. Edler, New York. L. A. Cobb, Cleveland, Ohio. OOWLES' BOOKSTORE, ..^ (A M. HOARE, Manager) OOEIISB 3I0BGI! AND GEANVILLE STEEETS, BOOKS AND STATIONERY FOB THE TBArELLINO PUBLIC. ¥I£WS OF HALIFAX. ETC. O. KAIZEB & SONS, * 134 QBANYILLE STBEET, ARBIIT AKiB HAVT Manufacturing Furriers, KEEP CONSTANTLY IN STO : ^ iHE UirKST ONDON AND NEW YOMK STYLES OF Hii ') HATS AND STRAW GOODS. '■;•-. if . 3a;>.. N. SARRE & SON, 27 George Street, ' haxjIF-ax, isr. S., DEALKBS IN SALMON AND TROUT RODS, SALMON AND TROUT FLIES, Suitable for the Rivers and Lakes of Nova Sootia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. WATERPROOF SILK LINES, BRASS AND EBONIZED REELS, FLY BOOKS, AND EVEBTTHINO NECESSARY FOR SALMON, LAKE, AND SEA TROUT FISHING. HAVANA OiaARS, VIEGINIA TOBACCOS, EGYPTIAN AND AMERICAN CIGARETTES, AND FRENCH BRIER-ROOT PIPES. j fi ILIFiyL STEAMSHIP COMPANY, OOMPBISED OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST-CLASS OCEAN STEAMSHIPS: MERRIMACK 2,200 tons, CARROLL 1,400 " WORCESTER 1,400 " Leaving Boston every Wednesday and Saturday, AT NOON. FOB HALIFAX AND GHARLOl'TETOWN. Leaving Halifax every Wednesday and Saturday, AT 4 P.1II., FOB BOSTON. BATES OF BA88AGE. HALIFAX TO BOSTON, $6.00 | RETURN $11.00 Price of State-room berth to or from Halifax, $1.00. MEALS SEUVED IN BEST STYLE. Creakfast and Supper ■. 60 cents each Dinner 75 cents Or on European plan when desired. THROUGH TICKETS, HALIFAX TO NEW YORK, via Sound Lines, may be procured from agert of line at Halifax. For circulars ocrtaining all i formation, apply to HABBISOir ysrm, Gen. Agent, JAS. F. FEELAH k SON, Lewis Wharf, Boston. Halifax, N. S. JAMES T. HAMILTON, 0im\\mt Catlor* 122 GBAirVILLE STBEET, HALIFAX, N. S. KNCLISH STYLES A SPECIALTY. VM. NOTMAN. ^ Photegrapher te the Qaeen, 39 GEORGE STREET, HALIFAX, N.S. .7". C Jlllen & Company^ (Formerly Buckley & Allen) ^^^Ar^Xm, J^totiomtf, %tmiu\%x% OR TO V V ■'■ ■ ";'."' /''■-', '■■■-' ADAMSON & RONALDSON,34 Leadenhall Street, XjONDON, O-. B. £#LL-S Fruit and G^nfeclierierY St^re. ^Cu-j.-x-x-x-^-x-_-i-i.-^ir>.ri--^^^^ ALL THE CHOICEST FRUITS IN •THEIR SEASON. THE FINEST ASSORTMENT OF IN THE CITY, --{ ;-{aig5^q?s?q?spqai?swr^q?qps?« Tac=Jcadpip^d a^aasa-: ;^ |GE<:REAn PARLOR ^ Over Store. ** ri' : l^. -. " ''■. ■ » 25 G-EORGE STREET, HALIFAX, N. S.