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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis ibi des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 & partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 •it .V- li .1 1 ; I /i>/fi'9 ■■a ? 1^ National Library Bibliotheque Rationale of Canada du Canada Reserve ff^'b 3^5 l^at) j'l, 'T-V, „ ■» '* •'-> SUMMER MONTH. II # f^ ^ "fci .H i ■ I' W' j Mpi "* ^ ^' ■■*-»ii 3 M.t « W SUMMER MONTH; on, iUccoHection^ or A VISIT TO THE l^Amai ^W miA^AlBA^ AXD THE LAKES. IJ 'I 4"' " Dum loquimur, fugerit invida iKtas! carpe diem, quAm rainimtira credula postero." HOR. PHILADELPHl H . «. C. CAllET AND J. tEA, CHESNUT 8TBEET ;*A%*BvU. 157 BllOAUWAT, IfEWl^r ;l^," i ,- " iViUiam Brown, Pr/n/|' ' r . < i' 1823. Eastern District of Pennsylvama, to wit .• BE IT REMEMBERED, That on tlie sixlh day of February, in the forty -seventh year of the Independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1823, H. C. Carey and I. Lea, of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right where- of they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit : "A Summer Month; or» Recollections of a Visit to the Falls of Niagara, and the Lakes, Dum loquimur, fugerit invida ^tas: carpe diem, qu^m minimum credula postero. Hor. " In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, Intituled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by secur- ing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, entitled, " An act supplementary to an act, entitled, • An act for the encouragement of learning, by secur- ing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times tlierein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, en- graving, and etching historical and other prints." D. CALDWELL, Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvama. CONTENTS. CUAP. PACfS I. Introduction — New-York — Association of Compa- nions — Passage up the river Hudson — Persons on board, 1 II. Environs of Albany — Schenectady — Villages and Scenery on the road — Utica — Tavern tea-party —Conversation, 9 III. Accessions to the Party — "Villages— Breakfast— Oneida Castle — Plains and Forest Scenery — Ob- servations on the Indians— Melioration propos- ed 17 rv. Villages — Scenery and Incidents — Auburn: The Prison : Theological Seminary, 33 V, Passengers called — I'lourishing Appearance of the Country — Travelling Customs — Growth of Towns — Familiar Introduction— Similarity of Names in Places — Theological Seminary, at Ge- neva — Canandaigua — Burning Spring, ... 39 VI. Episcopal Church — Divine Worship— Lay-Reader — Preaching: Doctrinal Inferences — Visit from Mr. B. — Departure from Canandaigua — Travel- ling Group — Progress of the Canal — Traveller's Fare — Improvements in Stages — General Re- marks— Buffalo— Entrance into Upper Canada, S3 ■aSi. vi CONTENTS. CUAF, PAOK VII. Niagara Falls, 65 VIII. Departure from Niagara Falls— Itoiite on the Ca- nada side: Water Scenery — Ncvark — Lake Ontario : York : Steam-boat : Sermon : Party on board — llecollections of the War, .... 83 IX. Entrance into Kingston — Suggestions concerning the Descent of tlie St. Lawrence — American Climate, . 95 X. Descent of the St. Lawrence— Thousand Isles — Gananoque — Remarkable Occurrence — llrock- ville : Group of By-standers — Termination of the day's sail, 105 XL Ogdensburgh: L'jcal Advantages and Improvements — Prescott : Incidents — Upper Canada side of the St. Lawrence — Remarks on the Country and Habits — Lake St. Francis — Entrance into Lower Canada — Rapids — Villages— Steam-boat Circle — Approach towards Montreal, . . . 115 XII. Impressions on entering : Montreal — Religion : Customs : Education : Government : and Mi- litary Force in Canada, 129 XIII. Retrospection of the Tour — View on leaving Mon- treal — Group of Passengers — La Prairie — Tra- veller's Alternative — St. John's, 145 XIV. Lake Chanrplain — Isle aux Noix — Plattsbnrgh: Singular Adventure on shore — Burlington — Sunset, 153 XV. Connection of Thought — America — Mountainous Countries — Observations on Vermont — Civil Liberty — Crown Point and Ticonderoga, . . 161 *4. ^;. .»-?■'. ■■>:■: .lii^,-ft)': iii. CONTENTS. vii XVIf Approach to Whitehall — Scenerj' and Associations — American Inns — Habit of Drinking— I.ansing'- burgh — Waterford — Cohoez Falls — Troy — Albany, 171 XVII. Retrospect — The Springs — Eticpicttc— Introduc- tions — Society of Ladies — Fashionable Circles —Company — Good Breeding, 185 XVIII. Passage from Albr ly to New-York : I'orti'ail Pain- ter : Major: Lieutenant: Minister: Visita- tions of Providence 195 XIX. Separation of Companions — Newark — Elizabeth Town — Casual Meeting — New-Urunswick — Di- vine Service — Devotion, 209 XX. General Description of the Country — I'rinceton : Nassau-Hall College — Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian Church— Trenton — lload to Philadelphia, 229 XX[. City of Philadelphia : Reflections : Advice to the Tourist : Rise and Fall of Nations : Preference given to Travelling in a new Country— Study of Nature, 237" ifcr '/tV-g. ■ ii^ ".:_ ^.. , .h...^_ it^- fc 'va- * A SUMMER MONTH. CHAPTER 1. ■ '■» \ I lUroiluction— New-York — Association of Companions — I'as ffagc up llic river Hudson — Persons on board. " Cari'k j)inM," or, seize the present moment, is a very important maxim in life, and in no situa- tion more so, than with regard to travelling ; but to be able to do this, is the grand point. Often when we think we have caught the fugitive, we find we have grasped a shadow. This however should not divert us from the aim ; but we ought, in our endeavours to profit by time, to exert our judgments, or we shall 'ind ourselves wofully dis- appointed. Whereas by attending to this circum- stance in the commencement of a tour, there will most likely be produced a happy issue, and the Retrospect such as would be desired. Half is already done, when well begun ; and when the mind is fully bent upon an object, there will be A m 'a o I jr. •,i ■'I no comparative difficulty in bringing other mat- ters rightly to bear. In the account of the tour that I am about giv- ing to my readers, I have tried the maxim ; how far I have succeeded will be for them to deter- mine. However, having a leisure month before me, and growing impatient of the confinement of a large and populous city, I thought I had a mo- 7nent to seize ; for the improvement of health ; the enjoyment of a survey of the beauties and sublimities of nature, and the diversities of cha- racter which present themselves to a traveller. I trust, therefore, that it will be unnecessary to make any other apology than that proposed in the outset. If a candid reading be allowed to the production, there will be a double pleasure added to this humble effort, and my utmost wish will be realized. In confining myself to so limited a term not much is assumed, while at the same time there exists a hope, that the less interest will not be excited from an adherence to fact. With these impressions I resolved to make the trip, of which the following is a relation, and set off from in the stage, a mode of travelling which is very convenient and pleasant, and in a few hours arrived at that great and improving emporium of commerce, the city of New- York. ■•*-•■ ■■'fr ^f"^-. 3 I repaired immediately to the City Hotel ; and it being my intention to make all possible dis- patch to the northward, I shall not be expected to dwell on many particulars, respecting this place. In the interim my time \vas taken up in calling on some acquaintances, visiting the Ton- tine and wharves, and walking about. My observations before made respecting Neiv- Tork were now confirmed and digested, viz. The City Hall, Churches generally, and some of the other public buildings are superior to those of Philadelphia, in beauty of structure ; and there is considerable taste and elegance discoverable, throughout the whole city. A degree or novelty and grandeur is exhibited, very imposing to the eye of a stranger ; and the bustling crowd con- stantly passing through Broadway and Wall- street, indicates an unusual degree of commer- cial enterprise. The private dwellings are re- markable for gayety and colours, more than for their neatness of arrangement, workmanship, or materials. The plan of the streets is by no means regular, but diversified by an agrv^'eable variety. This circumstance is very apt to con- fuse a stranger ; but soon becoming familiar, it beautifies and comprises itself so completely into one view, that there is no kind of difficulty in at '^ :>::'% ■V;'*^ 4 « i. ■Ul iiH once knowing his situation, from the constant changes and distant marks presenting themselves. The city continues to increase rapidly, as also the value of property, especially in the newly laid out parts ; where the avenues and streets are all contrived on a wide and extensive plan. These improvements tend much to compensate the total want of order in the original arrangement of the streets. The Battery also, now undergo- ing an enlargement, is certainly an elegant orna- ment ; its public walks, adorned with trees, afford a refreshing promenade to the citizens. For the purpose of prosecuting my intended journey to Niagara, I associated myself with my two friends, the reverend Mr. and Mr. — — . We left New- York, on the 30th of July, 1822, at 4 p. M. in the steam-boat, for Albany. It were needless to take up time, in describing the usual incidents of this route, up the North river ; inasmuch as they have been made familiar, by the relations of former travellers. Suffice it to say, that we enjoyed the advantages of a delight- ful sail, by moon-light. I'he Highlands, when seen under favourable circumstances, cannot be too much celebrated, for the boldness and gran- deur, with which they strike the spectator. The surrounding romantic scenery constantly varies, Tfii*'*/ii'»^,»-<" !■ il It a_'iil^ri jitij.ii-i»>-tL'^A,-. . ■■.Vf*'.^., \''f"fjr':;r^7" -";"T by the movement of the boat. Each beauty at- tracts attention till a new one arises, and while the unwilling transfer takes place, an absorbing- thought dwells on its memory, to lull the passing phantom. A calm stillness prevailed at the hoar of midnight. — The buzzing stir had ceased.— No noise \vas heard on the unruffled surface of the river ; — when I sought for my birth, and sunk on my pillow to sleep. Juli/ 31st. It is a common observation, that the pleasure of travelling consists principally, in the variety of scenery, and agreeableness of personages met with. To see these necessarily produces a new train of ideas, and devests us of partialities. The imagination In future will expatiate, and dwell with gratification on what has been seen. A passage in the steam-boat affords these advan- tages, in an eminent degree. It is there that the most lively and diversified variety of persons :ire often to be met with. A number of travellers coming together with different views, are con- strained to be in the same company ; some one of whom is not unfrequently employed in per- sonating a ludicrous character, for the rest, gratis. " II ne faut donner exclusion a aucune genre ; et si I'on me demandoit, quel genre est le meilleur ? Je repondrois, celui qui est le mieux traite." A 2 : ';h i ■'(f p^ M V %■ It ^1 V t !• r Such a cout-se of entertainment had amused a par- ty for some time ; when turning my attention, I perceived that Mr. F. had assumed a conspicuous station. This remarkable personage had a singu- lar talent for diversion. It consisted in that pe- culiarity of trait, which enabled him to enter into any crowd, and immediately pick up the drift of the argument and conversation j or, with the greatest facility, to play upon the words of any individual, so as to turn aside entirely the bent of his discourse, by leading him into a dilemma. This he had done several times ; and I expected every moment, that he would meet with a rebuff. But when this happened to be the case, he would just as easily extricate himself. He flattered,— argued, — and soothed — by turns j — he would make the whole company laugh, by a casual word thrown in while another was telling a story, (in the way of a droll expletive or animadversion) ; — and, when this was done, it would not be known, whether the story or his wit, was laughed at most. It had the effect however of making the narrator appear in a ludicrous point of view, without the possibility of his taking umbrage. He could not be said to possess either wit or wis- dom, but a certain unaccountable power of pre- varicating or playing upon words. fi \' Before quitting this party, it occurs to me to iremark, upon what I have often observed, as ap- plying to certain individuals, that it must be a strong proof, either of a reflecting character in reality, or a would be thought so, to be accosted frequently by persons only partially known, with " why so pensive ? — what are you thinking of ?" One should endeavour to alter this scrupulous physiognomy, in journeying on; and assume a gayety, the better to disguise the thoughts when thus inclined ; but I am rather disposed to think this to be a peculiar trait of locality in near affinity with pride, and more especially applicable to the reserve, and unqualified manners of some high- toned and homespun gentlemen of a neighbouring city. For which useless and unfortunate charac- ter, I would suggest travelling a little out of the infected district, as the best antidote to remove the poison, and produce amendment. This fea- ture, I think, may be discovered in those who have resided long in particular places ; and the re- verse, when such persons have been some time absent from home j — by their altered manners. I'/i >•' •( 1 •L^*,*v!J'ili4.'ii^-iril^ysi.l'?'-.*-ii. IM ■ ■^ t^mnutmimm 11 e fences are chiefly tends to make them interesting, is, that they appear all newly built, and there is a degree of cheerfulness discernible in the physiognomy of the various inhabitants. This valley is interspersed with a pleasing va- riety of houses, on both sides of the river. The scenery is of the liveliest cast, intermingled with hill and dale. But as the harvest has just been gathered, the appearances are not quite so fa- vourable as they would previously have been. Hay-making was principally the employment, in which the farmers were at this time engaged. The village of Little Falls is the most romantic through which we have, as yet, passed. It has taken the name from the falls at this place ; but these descending gradually over an uneven bed of rocks, may more properly be called the rapids of the Mohaxvk. You have a fine view immediately on leaving the village, when the road passes along their whole length, for the distance of about eigh- ty rods. On leaving these the road extends over an alluvial soil, through the valley of Mohaxvk. The land here is good, and much more diversified with cultivation. The eye is frequently relieved from the disagreeable inconvenience of uniformi- ty, by the gradual rise of hills at a distance, — b)- the verdure of meadows, and the smoothly fiow- ,-, "y S i ....y *>1!-. ^^i^^- ..^: 12 ing current of the Mohawk. Occasionally pre- sents itself to view, the slow moving scow pad- dled down the stream, with provisions and lumber for an uncertain market. The canal passes along on th«. soulh siile of the river. All these circum- stances conspire to give the traveller an idea of the rapidity of the progress, M'ith which that spot has yielded to the encroachments of the husbandman, although once the scene of wars and tumult, (hulng the American revolution ; once, nay ofiencr ))erhaps, of Indian bloodshed, or even where the savage beast has roamed to seek for prey. — How great the change ! — how the scene has altered ! — now there is afforded shelter and repose, in which the herds are grazing ; — now the ploughshare lifts the sod ; — and crops of grain the harvest crown. Herkimer is the next village through which we passed. This name is given to an extent of fif- teen miles, including Little I'alls, along the banks of the Mohawk. Soon afterwards we arrived at the uninteresting village of Sihutjler^ and thence passed through a flat countrv, which, though not much cultivated, contains a rich soil, and is well timbered. There appeared, nov^? and tlien, some good houses at a distance, belonging, no doubt, to wealthy farmers ; as the land grew move im- 13 proved in the vicinity of Utica, these increased, and we could form an idea of a town of consider- able note, on proceeding towards this flourish- ing place. We entered Utica at about 5 p. m. Various reports of its beauty and improvements having reached us, there is on such occasions naturally excited an unusual degree of interest. A zest is given to relieve the traveller, from the fatigue of a long day's ride, and a dusty journey, with even this prospect. As the expectation is thus formed, the mind becomes aroused, and conse- quently the effect is much the greater. The first appearance of this town was such as did not dis- appoint these anticipations. Crossing the bridge over the Mohawk, we immediately entered the town, and drove to the inn, which is commodious- ly situated at the left corner, at the junction of several roads. Having prepared ourselves for a walk and visit, by shaving, dressing, &c. we stopped to take tea, which was just ready before setting off. It ap- peared to me rather unusual, at an inn, to see the prim stateliness of a young lady in ruffles, starched up to the chin, preparing to pour out. The party at length succeeded in getting served, each with a cup of milk slop, or tea water. Not B 4 ■- jir' M it •■■*'^vi-...^M??*°"^;'- ">K„iii^(L'* r* i rrL V ■< 14 even a solitary request was asked of •* Sir^ is your tea agreeable ?" — and sooner much, would I take it as it was, or take none at all, than make a fuss at a Tavern tea-party. Any thing of this kind of mock gentility is bad enough, elsewhere ; but after a dusty stage-coach ride, to be thus incom- moded with formalities is not only sickening, but ridiculous in the extreme. So from this comfort- less meal, and in no amiable humour for our visit, we sought amends, by sallying out in quest of adventures. At the upper part of the town, leav^- ing the road which crosses the canal, and proceed- ing towards a church to the right, one of my com- panions asked the name of the clergyman, and where he lived. The person whom he addressed made no reply, which he taking for a specimen of civility not precisely to his liking, went off as wise as he came. We succeeded however in finding the house of Mr. A. and were received by his wife and sister. Their extreme readiness of apprehension and volubility, joined to a dispositon to be pleasing, contributed to render interesting the greatest part of an hour's conversation. While my two friends were fully occupied in keeping up the parley with Mrs. A. the unmarried lady seemed to fall to my share. Several cross shafts of wit and repartee were directed on each side, and though not al- '"i^itf^jKai! ■n.--.- " ■ ■a w wo ' 16 ways of the most cordial kind, verged orrasion- ally towards an agreement, though in opposite directions. The conversation turned upon cler- gymen's wives, and their requisite qualifications. She affirmed that a certain Mr. ol* Philadel- phia, had married the most accomplished lady in the place. I could not assent to this, declaring, with due submission, the thing improbable, or at least difficult to be ascertained. Let the lady be who she would, I said there might be found her equal. This was with difficulty admitted. My, combat- ant accused me immediately of being a Philadel- phian ; which could not be deduced from the pre- mises, unless at the same school, that was capable of distinguishing the best educated lady. Not further able to settle it, she seemed satisfied with conceding the point at issue, on the basis of ac- commodation. The introduction of the word one was admitted, to settle the mutual difference ; and thus the limited term of classification, among the well educated ladies of Philadelphia was pre- served. We had no sooner thus settled matters, than my fair antagonist turned the subject to a comparison of the advantages of Utica, with those of other situations in the state. In this she maintained her position with much adroitness, and upon very i^«u'ir-...--ai.' L» ■•, P«W».T?«T''^'* wi»fa««li^iB&-i.«.1 . . <■' 16 good grounds. — She proceeded to speak of a fine water-falls, within about fifteen miles ; to which she recommended a visit. The preference was given to Niagara in point of sublimity, while she assured me, in some respects, it was not inferior in beauty and romantic scenery. It is useless to add that these flattering representations were not sufficient to induce a change in the route, which we had originally determined on pursuing. As to climate, Utica is extremely moist and cold. In the latter respect, she supposed, it was equal to the extreme temperature experienced in Russia ; and tipon so broad a latitude, it would be needless not to assent, as this climate will correspond, some where or other, with most in America. , ^z, By this time my two companions had entered into conversation concerning a learned ministry ; which though the ladies did not altogether con- sider as essentially requisite, they were, however, ready to admit, that some classical learning, as also, a competent knowledge of Greek, to read the Testament, and an acquaintance with history, were necessary. Not being able to determine the point at issue, and willing to press these female con- noisseurs no further than prudence dictated, we concluded una voce, to put an end to the visit, and return to our lodgings. • 'A* ", ,: CHAPTER III. AccesBions to the party—Villages— Breakfast— Oneida Cas- tie — Plains and Forest scenery — Observations on the In- dians : Melioration proposed. On Friday morning (the 2d August) vre were aroused at the early hour of half past three ; hav- ing renewed the journey, our party had received an accession of two ladies, on their way home to the state of Ohio. They were accompanied by a prim looking beau, whom they called Doctor, and who from his appearance might have belong- ed to the society of Friends. It so happened, in the arrangement, that the two ladies and myself occupied the back seat. After the salutations, or nodding so usual in a mornino^'s ride, but not quite severe enough to prevent sleep (for which impoliteness in the company of ladies surely there needs some apology) I earnestly endea- voured to make amends, as soon as daylight ap- peared. But several unsuccessful attempts prov- ed to me, how impolitic it was not to commence at once, if any one would wish to gain favour B 2 ■ . I i r ii » i>l M*¥0ll t lfh« L \~ It •^1' 18 with the ladies ; for by this time, no exertions on my part were sufficient. It was necessary to put on the best face possible, and endure the mortifi- cation till breakfast time ; after which, at the so- licitation of one of my companions, I resigned my seat, and I may add, with much willingness. It became a desirable post to several of the rest of the party soon afterwards in turn ; but all were equally discomfited. There appeared an utter aversion to conversation in the two ladies ; nothing but a sedate look or a solitary negative could be obtained, in reply to the politest atten- tions. The younger lady would probably have been more affable, but that she was engaged in reading a novel, and before she opened the book, she was prevented by the other ; who having as- sumed the middle place, had caused a separation between her and the gentleman that occupied the remaining part of the back seat, and thus cut off the communication. This crooked piece of fur- niture so incommoded the harmony of our com- pany, that we were necessarily obliged to be se- cluded. She was, no doubt, some disappointed maiden, and from the settled appearance of habit, which she assumed, she had determined to remain so. In this there is an excuse, for at the age of three-and-thirty, giris arrive at a peculiar accura- >'«" i 19 cy in these matters, and seldom fail, as they ac- quire dislike for those intruders around them, to express their feelings in terms of suUenness and disapprobation. To complete the list of our stage-party, there were a Scotch gentleman, a New-Yorker, and a Virginian ; but neither was likely to succeed in making an acquaintance with the ladies. The first afforded considerable amuse- ment by placing a joke upon the Virginian, who having occupied a station in the rear guard^ was obliged to retreat with falling colours. These circumstances contributed to heighten the socia- bility and amusement of the greatest part of our company, who had been travelling together for nearly two days ; and thus the morning passed off very pleasantly. • • ' For a short distance out of Utica, the improve- ments are very considerable, and the country pleasant ; being interspersed with gradual emi- nences, and sloping grounds. A little further it assumes a very different appearance, from a dis- continuance of cultivation, and a more rough and barren soil. A tattered frame or log hut supplies the place of the wealthy farmer's more commo- dious habitation. In four miles after leaving Utica you arrive at the village of New-Hartfordi and thence to West- \'i t If T* "* » 'r 20 7nor€land, is seven miles further. The villages along this road are chiefly interesting from their construction ; the houses being built of brick very frequently, and in other respects quite commo- dious. The contrast is more remarkable to a traveller immediately after passing through them, on finding an unbroken extent of forest, where the axe and plough have not pierced, beyond the distance of half a mile from the road. Within that space are seen, here and there, a few log huts scattered among the scanty enclosures which are encumbered by the huge remnants of dead trees, half standing or spreading their wasteful branches over the soil. These are the most uninteresting appearances presented in the western countries ; where the deep shade of the woods is cast over hill and dale, and a dull and contracted boundary is produced in the horizon. Perhaps the want of cultivation has been occasioned, more particu- larly in this place, by reason of certain unsettled claims in the tenure of lands. The next village which we came to was VernoUy where a considerable number of the Oneida and Tuscarora Indians reside. It is distant from Utica about nineteen miles. Here we breakfasted with a pretty keen appetite, and set forward again in high spirits. This is a kind of grateful interlude 21 or recreation in travelling ; and, let the company be ever so dull, a good meal has a wonderful ef- fect. The barrenness of the country and want of prospects, were in some measure compensated by entertaining conversation, till we approached an Indian reservation. Soon afterwards we came in sight of a neat church, whose spire pointed above the wood. In this spot, retired and plea- sant to appearance, is the Oneida tribe of Indians taught by Mr. W. to respect and worship the God, whom Christians bow to, with humble re- verence. The doctrines of Christ and his disci- ples are there impressed upon the breast of the savage inhabitant of the desert, and the fulfilment of the promise of the great Head of the Church, is perspicuous ; to be with her " alway^ even un- to the end of the world.^"* The place is called Oneida castle^ but no trace now remains of that from whence the name is derived. ■ ':, • *^ This reservation of the Indians, we were now passing through, and were occasionally diverted by a few whom we met on the road. A number of children came running after the stage, for the purpose of soliciting a charitable donation ; but our party did not conceive it necessary to be thus excited, except in one instance, where it was giv- en more as a reward for running, than from the (:/ '---Ta'y ffb' i i ' . l uu pw inn 4Mi«MiMMiMH fi 22 hope of any advantage to the receiver : or proba- bly it was conferred out of complaisance to the beauty of a young squaw, keeping pace with our course for a considerable length of time. She had the fleetness of a deer, and from this cir- cumstance as well as the dress, it was not easy to conjecture her sex: for there was much inte- rest excited and a variety of opinion concerning this matter. She soon afterwards quitted the pursuit, to make a display, probably among her gaping kinsfolk, of what had been given j and we were agam left to our contemplations. Soon after this, compelled by the steepness of a hill, one milt and a half in length, we descend- cd for the purpose of walking. At the top an extensive plain opens to view, and a monotony of flat and uninteresting country succeeds. The forest in all its native wildness has not ceased to usurp the wonted range of dominion i nor even the savage beast, still prowling through the de- sert, to echo a shrill and tremendous yelling. ^. In passing through countries, where the In- dians once reigned lords of the forest, the mind will dwell upon the sorry remnants of their tribes. Though the causes of their sad condition are in a great measure evident, it is not quite within the pale of human wisdom to fix them definitivti.!^. \> > >\ 23 I am fully aware of the difficulty, previously to undertaking to throw together a few remarks, which have occasionally occurred upon this sub- ject. The information which I have derived from conversing, with persons who have lived among them, together with my own observations, on the ineffectual attempts at <:ivilization, have produc- ed the piesent reflections. As to the falling greatness of this people, and in some instances the extinction of whole tribes from their native soil, the effect perceived is too lamentable to admit of controversy : according to the advances and improvement of the white population, is to be found a corresponding dimi- nution of the red. Such is the fact, presented in the history of our own country : and while we take a view of the various circumstances, which have produced this effect; let us not forget, that the retreating savage, possesses a native spirit, which entitles him to a more enninent place among the rational part of Creation. The savage has virtues ; he values his ancestry and patrimonial estates, and boasts of a distinct though falling race. His faults lie principally in an unsubdued temperament of disposition, which disqualifies h^m for any change of primitive habit. The Indian village, which has just come under \i ': .V I '.- :xi .9v..mi •mm !>'' {\ I I if observation, contains the remnant of a few scat- tered huts. There remains but a vestige of the inhabitants, who once existed in this place. Their original, — the Mohawk language, has still main- tained its purity ; and their customs and man- ners remain nearly the same, notwithstanding fre- quent communications among friendly white neighbours. Some local attachments, however, have prepossessed them, in favour of the spot; which they refuse to sell, although every year renders the game more shy and scarce, and the difficulties of the chase consequently more irk- some. Similar to thi*^, there may be found many other tribes of Indians, compelled to become cultiva- tors of the soil, and to relinquish gradually the occupation of hunting. But scarcely does it ap- pear, that they deserve the name, so reluctantly do they undertake, and so unskilfully perform, a part the very reverse of their original habits. The circumstance giving rise, to the above, is the following. In the sales of territory, between the native tribes of Indians and the United States, a reservation was sometimes made of certain tracts, by the original proprietors. In this case, as soon as the game begins to disappear with the receding forest, and consequently the toils of 9^ hunting are increased, the wilder hunter is dispos- ed to seek for new grounds, while the less robust, or perhaps more peaceable, contents himself with supplying the deficiency, by tilling the lands. Thus an emigration of part of the tribe takes place ; inasmuch as the reservation is not suffi- cient, for the maintenance of the whole. This happens, not unfrequently, with regard to the larger body, while what the Indians term the lazier, are left behind. The American government have always been disposed to exercise a humane policy, towards the native tribes. Agents with fixed salaries, have been appointed, throughout the western country, with whom a fair trade might be carried on, and appeals made by the Indians, in case of contro- versy. A price thus fixed by the government, must consequently be attended to by private tra- ders in order to secure custom, and promote ho- nest dealing. By this intervention of the legis- lature, and philanthropic conduct of individuals, every advantage has been offered to the peaceable, to settle down to habits of industry. Yet what has been the issue of these experiments ? Do we not rather find them prompted by humane, than judicious motives ? It is lamentable indeed, to behold how futile have been all the attempts, ei- c :?i ■^-*: 26 H i h n '.!• 6 17 i ther of government, societies, or individuals, to establish a connecting link, between civilized and uncivilized society. The condition of the half-civilized Indian, has not been materially be- nefited. His mind has become less active, his bo- dy enfeebled, and his cabin the receptacle of sloth and filthiness. Scarcely an instance is known of an Indian emerging from an uncivilized state, without sinking in the scale of being. ^ ,,, ,.,.,,, For this there appear two probable causes. 1 lie one is, that being too much attached to primitive habits to be separated from them, as constituting what he conceives to be the dignity of his race, the more noble genius will not brook confinement : happiness and liberty to him are convertible terms ; — his liberty is unlimited range ; — so that none but the tamer sort become subjects. The other cause is, that between the Indian and the white population, there exists too great a disparity of habits. The extremes between savage and civil- ized life, require no ordinary method of recon- ciliation. Had the one been less civilized, and the other less savage, they might more easily have amalgamated in interest and disposition.* *It occurs to the writer to acknowledge liimsclf indebted for information on this subject, to a recent publication enti- tled ; " Views of society and manners in Amsrica" — He also takes the opportunity of mentioning, what came under his 55^ 27 When, under the protection of our laws, it has [happened that the scattered remnants of these tribes of Aborigines have settled down among the whites, to husbandry or very often to a trifling occupation, some dreadful fatality has caused them to dwindle imperceptibly from the soil, by falling a prey to intemperance and the j vilest habits. Such has been the inevitable re- sult, notwithstanding all efforts to reclaim them ; land (without calling these efforts in question) there can be no satisfactory method of accounting for the misfortune, unless by referring it to a des- tiny beyond individual or legislative interference. [However promising the situation and progress of [society once were among the Aborigines of Ame- Bmmediate notice in the course of the route; particularly, [as instances of this nature but rarely occur, among the abori> [ginal inhabitants of Amercia, and the new settlers. I travelled [in company with an engineer of our army, who since the last [war had united himself in the bonds of Hymen with a fair Bquaw. There appeared every indication of harmony subsist- |ing between this couple. They conversed in the Indian lan- l^uage, but occasionally in English ; with the latter she did not leem very familiar. Her manners were becoming, and she had ladopted the usages and dress of civilized society. She ap- ipeared to possess an amiable temper, and to her two young [children, a lovely girl and a boy, acted the part of a most affee. tionate mother. .■■'.»■ 28 !■■ rica, that unhappy race is now every where threatened with decay and dissolution ; and such has been the tendency, ever since the first arrival of the Europeans. In the conquest of Mexico and Peru, and the distribution of power which succeeded it, the page of history is blackened with transactions of infamy and horror. From many causes the sufferings of the savages have kept pace with the progress of civilization, and the increase of their white neighbours : till the heart of pity bursts on beholding the misery and destruction, for which no remedy has yet been devised. The vices which have been taught and the diseases spread among them, all point to the same sources. The constant advances made into their ter- ritories, have excited prejudices against our arts and improvements, and contempt for our morals and commerce. The savage on being introduced to civilized society, is found to imbibe a taste for slothfulness, and the worst of practices. He copies the evils without seeking the good. Every Species of employment, where atten on is re- quisite, becomes irksome to him, as incongruous to former habits. Calculations are what he has never learnt to make ; and therefore, that which does not afford an immediate promise of benefit, as sowing the fields or any kind of labour, will ' Hlf rOlll If*tr1lll )n ; and such not be undertaken but with reluctance. Remov- ed from his wonted rang< of the forest, he loses all stimulus to exertion, and the surrounding ob- jects create no interest. For these causes, so deleterious to the race and apparently irremediable, it were in vain to attempt accounting in a satisfactory manner. When we add to the above list of causes, the blood-thirsty >vars, which so often have desolated this unfor- tunate people, the period may not be far distant, of their total extermination. But let it be re- membered, by the followers of the ever blessed Jesus, that the bounds of his kingdom are illi- anitable. Under his banner, may the unsubdued spirit of the Indian be enlisted. They too arc a portion of the human family, still to be reclaim- ed. It is true, the habits of their whole life are averse to any change ; the charms of the hun- ter's life are not easily effaced from the remem- brance; the ungoverned passions and every natu- ral feeling rise up in opposition. Let this be ad- mitted, and the Christian religion will remove all difficulty ; more than this has been done, wherever the unconverted have been reclaimed. The dif- ference between the natural and spiritual man are still wider, than those which exist between an uncivilized and a civilized state. c 2 if 4 ■■ .***•* »^ T ■ * ^t¥>^» (( ;\ M \ i' ■%• It must be confessed, that time is necessary for the accomplishment of this benevolent purpose. But without religion, it does not appear, that there ever has been an equal degree of success, to that which has been attained under its influ- ences. The most effectual means would be, for suitable teachers to be chosen, who would be wil- ling to devote their lives to the cause of Christ. This is absolutely requisite, in order to unite the two opposite interests of the Indian and the white man. The latter must go to the former, and assimilate with him in part ; in order to convince, and by im- perceptible degrees, gain his affection. The In- dians must be led, as it were, by means unknown to themselves, to adopt the experience, which time has proved beneficial. Those associations implanted with their very existence, must be gradually rooted out, before they can be persuad- ed to relinquish their ways, and adopt precepts, at which their ancestors would have spurned: Let them be kept at a distance from the white settlements. Let no opposite, or contending in- terest be interposed. In this way the liable cor- ruptions of human nature, would give place to the mild principles of morality, and the labours of the missionary flourish, under the gospel influ- ence. Then, and not till then, will the happiness 31 and prosperity of the savage race be meliorated ; and a lustre of the brightest cast, dispersed over the Christian world. Then indeed, will " the bright and morning star^^ glitter in our west- ern hemisphere : " The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb" and then will ihe savage tenants of the forest be known as disciples of that master, whose doctrines teach them, to " love one another," <,. I* ,1 At I: >^v3l > T.I ^ (X ■*>;-% T/ immmmmmimmmiiimif^tmiin ;■:■:' V (/ ■■> i' i - r 'V^ WW -!WW^'M-»* - CHAPTER IV. villages: — Scenery and incidents — Auburn: The Prison: Theological Seminary. The observations in the last chapter having occasioned some digression, it will be necessary to resume the subject of our route, after quitting the territory of the Indians. We soon passed Sullivan, and approached a village which has re- ceived its name— Mzn/iw* — from classic pages. It is situated in a beautiful valley. The general appearance, together with that of the surround- ing country, is exceeding!/ picturesque and charming. It contains a number of neatly built brick houses. Its distance from Sullivan is nine miles. At about three miles from Manlius, we came to the small village of Derne ; Jmnesville next appears, and Onondaga four miles beyond. In a north-east direction, to the right hand of the road, a short time previous to our arrival at this place, we had a distant view of the Oneida lake. It was not sufficiently near, to enable us to disco- ' ver any beauty in the scenery, appearing but in occasional glances very much broken by woods. riiH 'H / ni 1 -L. «^ I. ( Ui I I Onondaga is a large and flourishing town, and has two villages, Onondaga Hollow and West-Hill. The former is two miles east of the latter, and is rather an agreeably situated place than other- wise J being on a level piece of ground, with open spaces and wide cross-roads. This was the appointed place for dinner and changing horses. We were doomed here to part with our Scotch companion, who had come to the end of his route; and in so doing he was as sorry, apparently^ as we were ourselves, for we had become exceed- ingly pleased with him. He was a well educated man, had seen good company, and what was soon discoverable, bore every exterior mark of a gen- tleman. Three miles south of this village live the Onon- daga Indians. During the remaining part of our ride, this afternoon, an agreeable variety of hill and dale was presented. The whole distance from the dining place was about twenty-four miles. The village of Marcellus intervenes on proceeding nine miles from West Hill. The large and valuable county of Onondaga continues to improve considerably in the agricultural line, and has some manufacturing establishments. It contains also, fix miles further on, the pleasant and flourishing village of Skeneateles. An un- 11 ; \ ' '>.i '■.l L j^. ,..t . -^ .*-«?» . •> "^ ■''Jjl r* ■*t, as usual degree of interest was excited at the lake of the same name. As you approach this beau- tiful sheet of water extending over fifteen miles, of which only eight are visible, the shores present a number of little villas situated on their banks. The road proceeds, by an easy declivity, for a quarter of a mile, immediately before arriving at the lake, which it crosses at the outlet. There is a peculiar charm spread over this spot, in conse- quence of the romantic appearance of the sur- rounding country, and the extent, which the mind so easily embraces, of the water scenery. As cultivation increases in the vicinity, it will pro- bably, at least, rival most situations in America. We advanced at a tolerably slow rate towards Auburn ; nothing of importance occurring in the route, or variety in our company. Our two Ohio ladies, were engaged, as we left them, in the fore part of the day ; the one with her novel, and the other pensively immersed in cogitation. The N. Y. gentleman^ had taken a post on the box ; where he was agreeably entertaining the driver with an account of the feats of horsemanship and jocky-club amusements; as wellas occasionally re- lieving him, in the true style of a Knight of the xvhip^ by showing his own dexterity in driving four horses. ]\ r w. I J Mi.!.i^a i'5»»^:».*'---'*v"' -;i^««?-'.;:t- ./-ir: "'^fSfc. ^^..J^. Vp,^''m,mmm'mmmiifKit0miitm mfvu^irr^-.A, • li r\ 36 The village of Auburn contains about fifteen -hundred inhabitants. Its location is extremely .eligible, for manufactories and mills ; and to this circumstance, much of the importance of its trade is derived. It is distant from Albany one 'hundred and seventy miles, at the outlet of the Owasco lake. Among other public buildings, there are a court house and gaol. A Prison for convicts has recently been erect- ed at the expense of the state. After supper we took a wulk to view this stupendous edifice by moon-light, and were very n ^ch gratified with the appearance. It was surrounded by a high wall of about fifteen feet, and at each of the front comers stands a sentr}- box for the protection of the night-watch. The parapet on the roof creates an idea of a fortress, more than what might be considered as a decoration, for the habitation of convicts. On the top of the building there stands, in complete uniform, a figure of what caused much deliberation among our party to determine,whetheritwasarealoronly the repre- sentation of a iSon of Mars. He at any rate is placed in so conspicuous a situation, as fully to answer the purpose of intimidation. The effect on some men is likely to be similar to that produced on birds by the scare-crow in a barley field. .'■.<■ ' "Mt?!-w__ ■ ¥S£*- ■ ,■ i^t .■•;-,. , 37 We were not able to learn much of the Theo- logical Seminary, which was lately established here under the patronage of the Presbyterian church, as it has scarcely yet commenced opera- tions. It is intended to prepare young men for the ministry. I understood the terms were rea- sonable with respect to tuition and board. The students will probably be transferred to Ando- ver or Princeton, after some advancement in their studies ; and as it is the only one in the state of the kind, it ought to act as a stimulus to other denominations. '^■1.'^ •^■^ '.^-/■-.I'i; ■■?-^ .f.v-. "Itf^ ii)«.M*.'««r«'" t .i > \ i (!/ « r A i) \ I il ijitt^imttitf^" CHAPTER V. Passengers called — Flourishing appearance of the Country- Travelling Customs — Growth of Towns — Familiar Intro- duction — Similarity of names in places — Theological Se- minary, at Geneva — Canandaigua — Burning Spring. \l iM 3d. At the usual hour of starting we were abruptly awakened again with that most unweU come of all cries, to the half-rested traveller. The Stage is ready ! — Passengers halloo I — " What is to be done," said one of my compa- nions, betwixt sleeping and waking, — " what then ?— what's the matter ?" — " Get up," said a good-humoured, half-witted, half-laughing kind of fellow ; — " come gentlemen ; — pull foot ; — rouse up gentlemen ; — the horses are all hitched !" " What do you mean ?" — " To drive right off then ?" said' I. " To be sure !" At which the fel- low seemed to enjoy the joke in good earnest, — " O yes, O yes !" — continued he, with a horse laugh — " The horses is all 'itched ; ha ! ha ! ha !" " But you'll give us time,— wont you, to dress ?" " O yes, O yes !" — and he bolted out of the room m ■■' .■ ^i^'y '''■'jt5'Uuv .'* 5' ' igUittmUu »f»SJ«*'>'M»-'-' 'j; 11 \ m \ 40 just quick enough to save hh distance from a blow of the first article that might have been le- velled at his head. We were thus left in a maze of wonder ; not knowing whether most to admire the fellow's wit, dexterity, or impertinence ; and by this time being thoroughly convinced that we were awake, began to bundle on the vest and pan- taloons, with the utmost precipitation. There will be nothing done, till we come, said I ; so if they will, let them drive off without us. To make sure of the matter, however, we were ready (to make use of a vulgar phrase) in a twinkling, came down stairs, and stept into the stage. After leaving Auburn the country displays a more pleasing aspect, and better state of cultiva- tion. Villages occasionally appear along the shores, but generally at the outlet of each lake, which is the depot for produce, and thus the most important situation is there established. It is often a difficult matter to realize, that one is tra- velling at so great a distance from a populous city, by reason of the improved, cheerful, and beau- teous arrangements which are presented. The houses are constructed *m so commodious and cor- rect a style, as frequently to convey an idea of elegance and taste, rvjthei than of the inconv&> niences naturally attached to the ill formed log- -'■'■■^&v--.?-''i'f' ;f each lake, hus the most shed. It is t one is tra- )puIous city, I, and beau- nted. The >us and cor- an idea of le inconve^ ormed log- 41 house of huge timber, so usually the first mode of building which is adopted in new countries. To the village of E. Cayuga is eight miles. Here we stopped to breakfast, at an early hour, according to the usual custom of American stage travelling, which probably arises from the cor- responding time of starting, and by this means the whole arrangement for the day is put ahead. The breakfast tables generally are well provided with all things necessary. Every meal is charged at about the same price, and a breakfast or supper is scarcely distinguishable, from dinner, except for the tea and coffee. The prices are usually three shillings* per meal. The rate of lodging is, from one to two shillings, for each bed. In some parts of the back countries^ I have been informed it is unusual to cook dinner, for travellers, unless specially called for ; the mode generally adopted is to take breakfast and supper only, and to lie by, for an hour or two, to rest, in the middle of the day. This is more properly the custom among travellers on horseback, or on foot. The horse is allowed to eat only a small quantity, at this time, reserving the more important feed till night : in this manner he will continue the jour- * New.York money, equal to thirty geven and a half centf- D 2 I i i lIlN )i 0in ti*i*»* ■ I f»- ■ 42 ney, at the best rate, and hold out for the longest time. Such things as concern travelling gene- rally will only barely be alluded to ; not particu- larly falling under notice unless from casual ob- servations or intervening circumstances. After breakfast we crossed the bridge over the Cayuga lake ; which, calculating from the time taken up, I should judge to be a mile in length. Its construction is remarkable, being built on piles, and level. Three miles beyond this is the small village of Seneca Fallsy through which we passed ; and next came to the flourishing village of Waterloo^ born and christened since the battle. It is not an easy matter to discover resemblances between places themselves which are similarly named, or the events producing their names. In this respect there is often a considerable disap- pointment, when the original places are known, and the mind consequently accustomed to form a set of ideas, in a directly opposite ratio to the one immediately presenting itself before us. Such was the case, in the present instance. An open, level, and uninteresting spot j but rather higher than the surrounding country, which incloses it, by a thick wood. Through the town runs a consi- derable stream of water, on which are erected se- veral mills. The account of the magical increase >ti^m-^^]i^^MdiX^t^^^kafiS^Si^^ -jm^f 43 ot this place, given a few years ago, in the public paper, had excited the curiosity and interest of our party. It is wonderful indeed to behold the rapid progress of this village, which has usurped the place of the desert forest. The hunter of these wilds might wonder, on his return, at seeing the change, where but a few seasons past his yearly course was uninterrupted. The expectations are not realized, with respect to the healthiness of the place; which we learnt was much subject to fever and ague. And this misfortune fre- quently takes place in new settlements to a very alarming degree. '> I cannot forbear mentioning here another pas- senger, added to the list of females, whose reso- lute silence had almost rendered them unnoticed. She began, by a New-England method, to disco- ver the place of abode of our ladies^ by saying they were not from such^ or — from such a place. This important discovery being once settled, there was no end to further inquiries, by way of explana- tory contradiction. " You do not know," mean- ing " do you know ?" Squire Timberlock^ Judge Clutterbuck^ Timothy Faivnhunter^ or Farmer Rake^ with many other distinguished gentry and commoners in the vicinity of Painesville. This conversation, as might reasonably be expected, <*! ■^"'3^- ■-: ~ ^^77 ■.- i)*iv; t. I ) |/\ I'k 5 r L^i 44 was exceedingly interesting to the parties ac- quainted) and subsided as soon as the prelimi- naries of natural curiosity were over. In fact, when this was done, all communications again ceased ; by either a voluntary, or an involuntary calm. Those persons, generally speaking, who talk most, on subjects of this nature, are the least capable of advancing much upon any other ; and universally fail in the attempt, both of entertain- ing themselves, as well as their neighbours. On advancing a little further we perceived the Seneca Lake, at the outlet of which is situated the Village of Geneva. It is no doubt very natural for settlers, to give names to places taken from the old countries, where their forefathers have lived, as a respectful token of their remembrance : but here again it may be observed, that in order the more effectually to preserve this memento, there should be corresponding incidents, circum- stances, or situation ; else the fondest expecta- tions are lost ; — the fancied pleasure ceases. Such is the doleful picture of this place, such the sickening view here seen ! To say that there is a resemblance, to the town only, bearing the same name, and situated on the borders of Savoy, is a comparison that may be allowed, especially with respect to filth, incongruity or gloominess : but ^ w 2MB3?^^°' IP^.-^^, m he parties ac- IS the prelimi- ver. In fact, ications again n involuntary peaking, who !, are the least tiy other ; and of entertain- fh hours. )erceived the s situated the very natural taken from fathers have imembrance : hat in order is memento, ints, circum- est expecta- iure ceases, ice, such the lat there is a g the same Savoy, is a :cially with miness: but 43 to call to mind the lively beauties of the sur- rounding scenery, which one glance at Geneva's lake would point to the beholder's fancy ; or flashing fpom the snow-topped Alpine region, seen in perspective over its blue-waved sheet; would require a thousand exertions, which the most fertile imagination or brilliancy of genius, must fail in attempting to portray. So on the one hand is the comparative picture brightened ; and on the other the disappointment augmented. A few miserable, misplaced habitations, are here the only relief from the woody scene, on the one side, and an expanse of water on the other. The houses form a comer, i. e. the main-street through which the stage passed to the inn. This situation Is the pleasantest, being nearer to the lake, and on its highest bank. It does not behoove me to pass by Geneva with- out saying something about the Theological Se^- minary recently established here, as a branch of the general one. It is intended that students for holy orders, who have neither the inclination nor the means of residing in the city of New-York, shall remain here preparatory to their entering the general Seminary. Such as are disposed, however, will have the privilege of being fitted for orders at this place; in a way that may \i * I! M : ^' ..^VfHt'^ff*'"' < t 's .' ' 46 enable them to enter upon the duties of a parish minister. It is impossible to form any estimate of either the qualifications for entry, or the re- quisites for admission, to orders. Am far how- ever as is known, a competent knowledge of the classics is to be taught j sufficient very likely to qualify them for entrance at college ; for such as could not procure admission to college, it would seem of course could not be admitted here : at any rate, this appears as if it might be the intended plan. The object is good, but how far likely to produce a benefit ultimately, time will determine. In the name of the great Head of the Church her candidates nust ever he suc- cessful. With respect to the building it may be said, with propriety, to be well calculated to answer the worthy object intended. There is a degree of neatness and regularity in the construction, while at the same time both commodious and sufficiently large. It is an admirable model of unadorned simplicity ; and being delightfully si- tuated on the bank of the lake, commands an ex- tensive view. It is built of stone, and is three sto- ries high besides the basement. The windows, though not capacious, and containing small lights, bespeak a symmetry and order suitable for the J \t ' -■'W 47 apartments of study. In fact the whole appear*- ance is picturesque, and at the same time substan- tial. Sufficient accommodations are here provided for the students, and advantages of an education for the ministry, with respect to retirement, supe- rior to those practicable in a city,, and according to circumstances, not less complete. The country, through which we passed after leaving Geneva, abounds with those plains and native forests, so common in the new states to the westward ,r with this exception, however, that the soil is v^t good. Very few houses are to be seen for th r ^e of sixteen miles, which is the distance to the next lake ; but still, now and then, a little orchard of peach or appletrees, and a stub- ble* field appeared to indicate that the settler was not destitute of what may be considered as the main staff' of life. On passing Seneca and Gor- ham, we approached the lake o£ Canandaigua, near which there is evidently greater attention paid to horticulture, and kitchen-gardens are not unfrequently in a tolerable state of cultivation. Canandaigua is situated near the outlet of the lake, from which its name is derived. This vil- lage concedes the palm to none through which our route has passed, either in situation or beauty. The variety of prospects, as also the taste and \' «taM>.&/ -. .WUlJI .■••,r>2.iv-'.'''>ti'isJ. Eh 48 structure of the buildings, are very superior, and its vicinity contains a number of villas. The natural scenery renders it an eligible situation to the citizen, retiring from the walks of an active life, or the independent farmer. It seems proba- ble from appearances that such spots will be sought after, and perhaps already have been se- lected by persons of this description. Our party came to a conclusion to remain here during Sun- day ; in so doing there were no other inconve- niences, than parting with the company (before mentioned) and a small delay. Matters being thus arranged, we dined and made ourselves contented after the departure of the stage. The room to which we were shown was in the front part of the principal inn, situated on the large square. It is placed on the most eligible site which the town affords ; the views are finer, more open, and elevated than at any other spot. In front of this square, containing the court-house, runs the principal street, which ascends a gradual hill ; at the top of which, a most perfect view of the lake, whose picturesque and broad expanse forms a contrast with the wild surrounding country, is presented. The prospect down this vista is charming, being nearly two miles in length. The lower part of the street is nii 49 occupied by stores and ware-houses, but the up- per contains villas or cottages, ornamented with colonnades and porches, each within its own plea- sure ground or garden. The principal part of the town is built at about one mile from the lake. It is distant from Albany two hundred and eight miles — from Utica a hundred and fourteen — from Buffalo eighty-eight — and from Niagara Falls a hundred and eight. There are in the vicinity of this place a num- ber of " sulphur springs.'"* For the satisfaction of those who may be desirous of information con- cerning these, as also what is called " the burning spring," nine miles south-west of Canandaigua, I take this opportunity of subjoining an account thereof in the words of an intelligent traveller. " We entered a small but thick wood of pine and maple, enclosed within a narrow ravine, the steep sides of which, composed of dark clay-slate, rise to the height of about forty feet. Down this glen, whose width, at its entrance, may be about sixty yards, trickles a scanty streamlet, wandering from side to side, as scattered rocks, or fallen trees, afford or deny it passage. We had advanced on its course about fifty yards, when close under the rocks of the right bank, we perceived a bright red flame, burning briskly on its waters. Pieces F. Ifc 1 m-' i!| a' H *:_•,. ■ ,., V- -" »A«. *»•-»"-"--'•-"»"•'•, 4 fi:'*^«**«SlWr'*^?^;»-'', -■-*,'W 50 of lighted wood being applied to diflerent adja- cent spots, a space of several j'ards was imme- diately in a blaze. Being informed by our guide, that a repetition of this phenomenon might be seen higher up the glen, we scrambled on, for about a hundred yards, and, directed in some degree by a strong smell of sulphur, applied our match to several places, with the same effect. The rocky banks here approach so closely, as to leave little more than a course to the stream, whose stony channel formed our path : sulphur in several places oozed from them abundantly. We advanced about seventy yards further, when we found the glen terminate in a perpendicular rock, about thirty feet high, overgrown with moss, and encumbered with fallen pine trees, through which the drops, at this dry period of the season, scarcely trickled. These fires, we were told, continue burning unceasingly, unless extinguished by accident. The phenomenon was discovered by the casual rolling of some lighted embers from the top of the bank, while it was clearing for cultivation. In the intensity and duration of the flame, it probably exceeds any thiug of the kind yet discovered. I could how- ever find no traces of a spring on its whole course : the water on which the first fire was 51 burning, had indeed a stagnant appearance, and probably was so, from tlie failure of the current ; but it had no peculiar taste or smell, was of the ordinary temperature, and but a few inches deep ; a few bubbles indicated the passage of the in- flammable air through it : on applying a match to the adjacent parts of the dry rock, a momentary Ilame played along it also. These circumstances * induced us to consider the bed of the streamlet as accidently affording an outlet to the inflammable air from below, and the water as in some degree performing the part of a candle-wick, by prevent- ing its immediate dispersion into the atmo- sphere — I should observe that there are consi- derable sulphur springs nine miles north-west of Canandaigua; and it may perhaps be worth notic- ing, that a line drawn through both, would strike, in a south south-west direction, the warm spring near Huntingdon, in Pennsylvania; the Berkely medi- cinal waters on the Potomac ; and thence, follow- ing the course of the mountains south-west, the hot springs of Bath, and sulphur springs in the Alleghany.' ; r I ( I '■■\ ''i'.^-'. 5J I^> ii ' !!; I - ii\'.> ■ >'■><' !.Ul-' Si>*.' ', W'^i^ '-^v. ^» wJ/, liH'" ^^'^^ ^J.^J ■ ■- I.I ^A^' i??.; ^'i fSn m*:i ■f *:' (' •,'*» ■■\:'e U i . '..' i ,T.t«:,^ •<■ ...vf;*^ I .M -..^ "vVir^lr ; *,.'■:. '^z *^i ', '.-'W-* :5i< %^^- ■I. » »•■■ i^: v^«-' .*;;. ;r-^#1i CIIAPTKH VI. F,pi»copal Clmrcli— Divine Womliip-— I.fty-llcader— Preach- injf! Iloctriiial Inference*— Vi»it from Mr. II. — iJcparturc from <;antin %S^|I r / " ¥ MM ( ' -> •//••'-♦>-, wi A 4. h i utlciuloil. riu' Uiiuil is often tapricioiitj and wiuv lining, rvrn in the lltmsc of liod ; Imt I rcnlly think ihnl thcro uir occiiHionully circiu«atjuut'.s, wltich Hci've to l)oi^-hton thin disposition, and that ihc service of our Chnrch, if not proporly ct)n- ductnl, lias not unfirijiiontly such dfcct. Such conceptions arc accountcil for, uhrn \\c consider that the 8]H'aker nujst feel before he can com- municate : anil iti the present instance the circum- htanecs alluded to were unhappily ilUistiaied, hy the n»ost cogent reasons. It happened unfortu- nately that INlr. H,, the rector, was unwell, lie had not i')lfieiated for sonve niiuuhs. The service was performed hy a lay-reader, as I supposed, who was introihiced hy INlr. H. lie entered the read- ing desk in a manner very unusual, to one, at least, who had heen accustoiued tt> see the entry of mi* nisters (duu with a solemn appeal to Almighty r.od, for a blessing upon their labours) humbly supplicate, as a previous step to commencing di- vine worship. His Hgurc was that of a country squire, or any thing else but a clergyman. What with alterations and ill devised omissions, he con- trived to get through, and mangle the service in a most shocking manner. The important airs which he assumed on proceeding to read a good sermon of Bishop Wilson, were not a little heightened, by i|^ <»■■>/* ioMs ami uaiT- ; l)Ut I really iri'uiustaiut'N, itioii, and that pn)|)rrly iini- idVit. Such n wc ( onHidci he can coin- cc the circiun- illustrated, hy cued unfoiiu- unwell. IK- The service tipposed, who red the read- one, at least, entry of mi* to Alniighty urs) humhly luenchiji; di- 1 a cc)untr\ man. What ions, he con- service in a U airs which :;()od sermon ij^htened, hv ,1S \\\» awkward aiicmpin to Hupply the want of clo- «|ucnce. Add to thin the close cut hair of a hif\h'turned lorehead, hift total inaptitude lor the situation, and dip;nilied, lolly demeanour ; and there appeared at once the characteristic stamp ol' a pedagogue. We learnt al'terwads that he was a «ch(»olmaster ; atul hy profession also, a lawyer. May Heaven hestow meekness on thoHC who oiliciate, lor the Church needs no nHsistance without it, in the pale of her sanctuary. It if* not from want of charity that these remarlcH have heen dictated ; though it tends to .show, that dtere existed an improper spirit i'or devotion. A Huerv arises, whether a similar ellect will not l';enerallv he produced ? It is prohahly no matter of surprise, that a service tendered dull i)y such performances, must efl'ectually create lukewarm- ness, and cause finally the ruined stale of many country parishes. It is hy no means to he wondered at, that I declined going to tlic same church in the afternoon. My reverend companion hail not heen introduced to thv clerg) man, and thus it happened, was not asked to preach. No inducement would have caused me to sit again under such preaching, if so it can be called, as I heard this morning, and in the presence of two ordained ministers ; so I left J )l \S ') 56 my companions on the way thither, and entered the Pre8l)ytcrian church mjsclf. The preacher, a Welshman, delivered a deliberate doctrinal sermon extempore, against the reprobate race. The terrors of the judgment day were awfully depicted ! He portrayed the sinner's hopeless condition, on whom the wrath of the Lamb should fall ; and declared himself the messenger. His tones were deep, — his manner pointed, and his language unpersuasive. How comfortless the state of a sinner awakened to a sense of God's justice in his own punishment! — how lost for ever ! But stop ! too much is proved ;— he will not finally perish ! — his very dread of this could no lost sinner feel. It is the source from whence his comfort and the knowledge of his pardon are to be derived. Already have the dawnings of grace appeared, — the Saviour's arms are open. I returned to the inn, and joined my compa- nions J and not having any acquaintances in the place, we determined to remain in our chamber. The conversation turned upon devotional exer- cises, and produced, I trust, considerable advan- tage. My mind had been prepared by reflections during the day on what had occurred, and by reading a highly esteemed production of an Eng- lish woman on Practical Pietv. 'sffi," /?i«»'i'.. .,'.:<. ,« 57 Sth. The politeness of Mr. B., the rector, and perhaps some degree of curiosity, (he having seen three strangers at the church yesterday, and sup- posing them to belong to the cloth), induced him this morning to pay us a visit. He had no hesi- tation in setting down two of the party as clergy- men, and the other a student in divinity. He was much surprised, that we had been so long in town, without his knowledge.— Our discussions were of a general nature ; excepting the account of his own ill healtii, and tlie unavoidable decline of the church from debts, and other opposing cir- cumstances. He afterwards proposed taking a walk, in the course of which we saw the Metho- dist and the Congregational churches, both sub- stantial frame buildings ; we also called to see several gentlemen of his congregation, and re- turning to the inn soon after, took an affectionate leave of our friend Mr. B. From Canandaigua a stage is frequently taken to Rochester, and thence to the falls ; it being- called the Ridge or North road, and is in a better state of repair generally than the other, via Buf- falo. We chose however the hitter, as w^^ liad f^omc intention of passing the other, on our re- turn. We therefore left this place at 2 p. m. and entered the stage-coach. The rest of the com- s.-' V it ;:i'5^,ji^ 38 ii-l t * pauy were composed of the family of a reverend doctor of Philadelphia, consisting of his wife, and two children, mother-in-law, and her son of about fourteen years of age. They formed an interest- ing group or domestic travelling circle, which we had overtaken once before, and left at Little Falls. On leaving Canandaigua we proceeded over a country rather more rough than usual, and of a sandy texture. The road, however, is not with- out interest as it passes near the great canal. The channel is elevated upon a high earthen mound. The Irondequoit is conducted beneath, through a long and capacious funnel. These works will finish the section as far as the Ton- newanta, and from appearance are the most gigan- tic on the whole route. There is much labour be- stowed in transporting earth for the mound. From these exertions it is necessarily admitted that New-York as a state will stand pre-eminent for her improvements, and afford an example wor- thy of imitation. We passed through East and West Bloonifield^ Lima, and Avon, small neat villages ; and a ride of twenty-seven miles brought us to the Genesee landbig, where there is a small inn, and but ipdiflPerent accommodations. Our party alighted '-i^' s$ at an early hour, at this place, about a mile distant from the river ; for it appeared there was no choice or arrangement left, but to make this the lodging place for the night. A room was selected with three beds, and no other inconve- nience arose, but that two adjoining chambers communicated with ours. We determined at all hazards to put up with travellers^ foi'<^- Supper was announced, and to our great satisfaction, we found it served up in a very agreeable style : and when this was finished we retired to our cham- ber, in order to continue our usual practice of employing a few hours at the Journal. 6th. Our company was just enough for a stage. load, and being all assembled at the hour of four, we left Genesee landing, and crossed a covered bridge in about a mile. The stages on this route are very much improved, and the teams are of the finest sort The former, in addition to being commodious and well swung, have cross back-straps to the middle seats; which make these preferable. The baggage is suspended from the body of the stage, by a chain from the top, so as effectually to prevent chafing. What I also e- marked was, that instead of black, the top and of- ten the sides are painted almost of a white colour. It is supposed this will be more durable; at any i 'v \-M ^:,:. ^.m .JI^,^m-^•*imr■:■t■■**^_^ « 60 % \' ) n n^ vate a good purpose is effected, by preventing the heat of the sun from striking through. Passing through Caledonia or Big Spring, a small village, we arrived at Le Roij^ to breakfast ; which is twelve miles ; and thence four miles farther is Stafford. These villages are small, but contain many brick houses. From an eminence at the distance of three miles, I perceived Batavia^ a very neat town and handsome situation. It contains twelve hundred inhabitants, and about two hundred houses. A new church has lately been erected, which was subscribed to by both Presbyterian and Episcopal denominations. It is something modeled like the one at Canandai- gua, being too short for its breadth j but it is built of brick instead of frame. The main street of this town is a mile in length. In the vicinity is an immense quantity of lands, belonging to the Holland Land Company ; the agent for which, Mr. O. of Philadelphia, we met at Batavia. Lands are not much improved, through the country over which we have come to-day. They are generally of good quality, and on lime-stone bottoms ; at least this description of soil extends in a ledge of thirteen miles be- yond Batavia. The first year of clearing lands produces no crops ; and it requires an industrious i.i 61 fanner to get in seed, the second year. / {ter the trees are cut down, they roust be burnt, and the ashes produced are the only emolument, for the first year. It will cost twelve dollars per acre to clear lands effectually, so as to leave nothing but the stumps of the trees. When there is not sufficient time to do this the trees are only girted, the sap being down ; this operation soon kills them, but they are suffered to remain in the field, till a convenient opportunity occurs for removing or burning them . In a few years they will all rot away of their own accord except the trunk, and the land thus prepared will produce yearly crops ; but this is only adopted as a dernier or expeditious mode, where a field must be hastily put into grain. It ex- emplifies the motto, that "lazy people take the most pains." The price of labour per day is equal to two bushels of wheat, in this country. This is made the current commodity in consequence of the want of money, as is usual in most of the western states. In this day's ride an opportunity occurred of seeing, what they call gridiroji bridges or roads. They are made by felling trees, and laying the trunks close along side of one another. The interstices are attempted to be filled up with dirt. You are dragged slowly over these roads in the most dreadful agitation j re- r ■iviii^J -^^ist* V 62 W V. • * sfembling the motion occasioned by the pitching of a ship at sea. At this rate of perpetual jar- ring, bruising, and tossing, we worried over these uncultivated wilds, without meeting any thing worthy of notice, or being one moment sufficiently collected to adjust an occurring thought. The intervening places from Batavia to Buffalo are Pembroke, Clarence, and WiUiamsvtlle ; in which there is nothing particularly remarkable. At no considerable distance from the road is the Indian village of the Tonnewanta tribe. We were met by a squaw, who came up to the stage to sell whor- tleberries, f Ati S p. M. we got into Buffalo. This town, situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, has flourished very considerably since the war ; when it was burnt, by the English. It contains a neat church, bank, and court-house, with other public build- ings. Its situation is highly advantageous, form- ing the grand line of communication by the lakes, with the western states of the Union and the two Canadas ; as also, with the eastern states, by means of the canal which has just been opened. The celerity with which this town has risen from its ashes, and still continues to flourish, is indica- tive of an unusual degree of enterprise among its inhabitants. 'A.—:^;>*,- 63 7th. We left our accommodations, at the prin- cipal inn at this place, which were of the most satisfactory kind, immediately after breakfast j and departed for Black Rock ferry, two miles dis- tant. This place contains some good houses si- tuated on the banks of the Niagara, and com- manding a fine prospect of the lake. The cur- rent runs here at the rate of seven miles per hour, and the river is three-fourths of a mile wide. Immediately on crossing, innumerable quanti- ties of swallows are seen hovering round, and feeding on swarms of flies, which abound in these parts. They have demolished every leaf of some few trees, where they alight ; supplying their place with ten times greater numbers, than the bared limbs before possessed. From Buffalo to Niaga»'a Falls, by the Canada side, is twenty miles. The road proceeds along the bank of the river, and is but little varied j though sandy, the intervening country is well cultivated, but the liouses are of a meaner description than those on the American side. We observed also on the way a great number of ducks and other water fowls, as also snipe and plover. Perched on a blasted pine two eagles sat ; as if portending that these domains, one day seceding from the British m m 'S '^.A crown, woald rally under the banner of that na- tion, which has adopted this soaring bird as the emblem of her glory. America may be said to possess the comprehensive grasp, and penetrating eye of the eagle ; and continues with youthful vigour to make advances in improvements, — in agriculture, — and in commerce. Chippewa, where the famous battle was fought and victory obtained by the Americans, is situated on a level spot three utiles from the Falls. We had almost passed quietly by, had we not been pointed to the place of the battle grounds, where the British and Amei'ican arms have clashed in fierce array. " Sic transit gloria mundi,^'* . , •/\r l\ CHAPTER VII. NIAGARA FALLS. The emotions which arise in the mind, on be- holding this wonderful work of Nature, are ex- tremely difficult to be described. ' •* Strange ! there should be found, Who, satisfied with only pencii'd scenes, Prefer to the performance of a God Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand ! . Lovely indeed the mimic works of Art; . But Nature's works far lovelier." N - ) Accustomed, as we are from early life, to hear the representations of others concerning great curiosities, with interest; there is unconsciously treasured up in the mind a prepossessed opinion : but when the sight bursts on our astonished view, a quick recollection recurs, which not unfrequently produces a disappointment, in pro- portion to the dissimilitude of the picture. Some of the interrogatories, revolving in the mind''s eye upon such occasions, are suggested F 2 |„ I V ' €-*- *l«>Mi » » .#*^'- '1l!^^^..^py^'^J^^ '■' 66 1 from an ipiperfect representation of the real ac- count, or from misconceptions of our own fancy. The vision is incorrect in most instances, which the imagination has presented, from impressions previously received ; thus therefore does the dis- appointment arise, and the mortification of exag- gerated circumstances, from the diminution of splendour, beauty, or greatness occasioned by a real discovery of what had before been depicted. So in an eminent degree is the contrary expe- rienced, with respect to the Falls of Niagara. "Whatever idea before existed ; — whatever the fondness for decorating in vivid colours, the ter- rific splendour, and the wonders of this scene ; — all is but faintly conceived ; all lost in the daz- zling glow of astonishment. The power of fan- cy, has fled from the aerial castle ; — surprise and pleasure have usurped the place of disappoint- ment : while the senses, grasping at the opening expanse presented at one view, are bewildered in ecstasy ; and witiv incessant ardour plunge into an unfathomable ocean of ever-widening subli- mity. Such are the unexaggerated impressions made: let me attempt to be as minute, as my few days' continuance at this place have enabled me, in deli- neating the respective beauties of different views. H II f' ' '■/• 67 The first which I took, was from a projecting point of the plain, directly in front of the horse- shoe.* The curve which has been hollowed out contains by far the heaviest sheet of water. From being deepest at the centre, there is a gradual de- crease either way ; i. e. (retaining the idea of the fsh-hook^ at the bearded part of which the ob- server is supposed to stand) to the point of vi- sion, and to Iris Island. Carrying your eye along the stem of the hook, on the edge of this island, the view is unbroken, till arriving at a small intermediate fall, and then another island brings you to the American fall, which completes the stem ; making three distinct falls. The ef- fect is increased, by reason of the fall on the American side being higher by fifteen feet ; and the water being quite shallow, loses its green appearance at the top, and is immediately con- verted into foam. ■ ■ :. .. ., An awful, stunning noise, deeper than thunder, is the irresistible effect on the beholder, at his first approach to the Falls. In the words of a tourist : " You must behold at one view,"— the lofty banks and immense woods, which 41 * Very commonly thus called from the shape ; but perhaps the idea of the Falls is more correct which may be derived from a ^h-hook, laid horizontally, with the water falling through the inside bend or incurvation. ( k J i ,„,. ^^. \^- . ' t. /I, / • 68 environ this stupendous scene, the irresistible, force, the rapidity of motion, displayed by the rolling clouds of foam, the uncommon brilliancy and variety of colours and of shades, the cease- less intumescence and swift agitation of the dashing waves below, the solemn and tremendous noise, with the volumes of vapour darting up- wards into the air, which the simultaneous re- port and smoke of a thousand cannon could scarcely equal," — " before the mind can feel the real grandeur inspired by this truly magnificent and sublime prospect." , .,> A stream of vapour issues constantly from the Falls. It may in shape be likened to a spacious tree, whose branches bend and wave with the violence of the winds. At one time volumes of spray rolling thousands of feet into the air, min- gle with the clouds above. Their watery canopy spreads over the chasm, assuming all imaginable forms. It appears, at a distance, like morning dew which ascends the mountain heights : — agair; it resembles the cloud of smoke rolling in im- mense volumes from Etna's burning fire ; and with uplifted arches aspires to prop high Heaven. Now it rises higher and higher, with oblations to the skies. Qth, The next day after our arrival, we con- cluded to make further excursions j and therefore W .: ^^••Ail.^i uy .^^-^i" 69 discontinued for the present, tracing the fancied figures in the spray, which the brightness of a morning sun began to dissipate. It may be ob- served that, early in the day, this spray rises much higher, forming immense clouds, which, when there is no wind prevailing, hover over the river, a little below the Falls, and mingle their dark columns with the atmosphere. From hence it returns upon the earth like rain, or showers of dripping dew. The surrounding romantic spot is thus rendered fertile. The interstices that se- parate the rocks (which, from time to time, fall off from the steep bank), collect a soil, suitable for vegetation. At a small distance below the Falls, trees of various kinds have fixed their roots, be- neath the impending cliff. Their branches en- twining, form a thick spreading alcove of under- wood, and thus add to the wildness of the scene. In some places, the interruption is so great, from roots and broken fragments, as to prevent passing. The spot is altogether interesting and diversified : long bending grass and aquatic plants are seen in abundance, mingling their beauties, with a fragrant wildness. Gay flowers of the forest lift up their luxuriant heads, and flourish in brightest hues, amid aun-beams and the moisture of perpe- tual spray. «•,- M*r:.\i to 70 We descended to this valley, by a staircase, on the Canada side. In consequence of the swell just about here, it is necessary to drag the boat upon the shore, to keep her from drifting. The Charon had just returned from ferrying a party over the river, and was waiting our approach. We got into the boat, and he tugged lustily at the oar, till we gained the opposite side. The water here is said to be a hundred and fifty feet deep, and the current is so strong, as to produce nume- rous eddies and whirlpools. A foam is constantly spread over the surface, adding beauty to the bHght green colouring of the witer. The boat- men often venture up between the Falls ; in which attempt, the boat is not unfrequently "whirled round ; but there is not any actual dan- ger. The scene is really magnificent ! Billows concealing rocks, and then rebounding from them with reiterated violence, open fresh terrors to the view. Islands of rocks are seen, and clumps of trees scattered among them ; over which the rolling wave dashes with such force as frequently to conceal the opposite shore- Like the violence of a tempestuous ocean which Homer describes : ; HovTS *lKctpietej Tec f^iv t' Eupoi re NdT3>- rt ''Slpa^*, tTrcti^ct^ ■trcc'if'oi; Aioq ix, vf^eAeciWv. bkl^ ;v^ji' -^■■•4- — - . ..»^.-— ■*T*^--, . , .^r^SA, . J»l At the foot of the Falls, a spiral staircase also is erected on the American side, for the conve- nience of travellers, to lead down to the margin of the stream : the view from this staircase is very sublime. The foot of it is about eighty feet above the level of the water ; and is reached by passing over rough fragments of stone. You ap- proach very near the spray ; but the stones are so exceedingly rugged here, that this is not done without difficulty. The rainbow appears in many different positions, caused by the constant vary- ings of the spray. But on this side there is no possible admittance under the sheet of water. ' It was the intention of my two rompanions and self, to spend the day on Goat Island. On our way we called at the hotel, on the American side ; which is by no means as eligible a situation as the Ontario Hotel, or the Pavilion on the other. Having crossed the first bridge to an island, we proceeded thence, to Goat or Iris Island. To the romantic walks, which intersect this wild spot, Judge P. has lately erected another bridge. The small island across which the bridge passes, is called Bath Island, where the toll-keeper's dwell- ing, and a commodious bath-house are erected. Iris Island is covered with groves, growing in •wild profusion, and interspersed with a thickly '/■' « :1 !9F1 /' M - v ■ ,;^ifcii: 72 ! t r. f!i ^ \ r 'I r -llf }iU strewed under-brush, almost impassable. Through M-indings, gloom, and luxuriance, the wandering footstep treads an uneven course, while the ear is stunned by the deep thrilling sound, •' Loud as the surges when the tempest blows, Tliat ilashM on broken rocks tumultuous roar, And foam and lltundcr on the stony shore." Suddenly from a precipice of more than two hun- dred feet, are seen on the right and on the left, the two Falls, tumbling their immense volumes. You behold an ocean dashing its foaming billows, over ten thousand rocks, into the bed of the river below ; and forcing with irresistible madness its impeded course ! The sudden resistance, — the awe — with the eflcct altogether of this secluded retreat, draws the mind involuntarily into medita- tions, religious and truly sublime. If any idea can convict man of his own comparative lit- tleness, it is the contrast here exhibited of the power and greatness of God in the works of Nature. These are even distinguishable in the minutest particle of matter, in the incomprehen- sible distribution of animal functions, and of life to beings innumerable. The blessed light of the Gospel, and immortality are conferred on man ; while myriads of inferior creatures quit this - **■ 'i^^^Ii^ '— ■*'PlK'^' ''"'■■:(,■'" ■"''■' 73 stage of existence, after a course of comparative insignificance. Man is led to view all as in- comprehensible, — himself and all the other works of Deity, only tending as it were towards one grand plan of Creation ; and hence, in wonder, ecstasy, and unceasing admiration, appears com- pletely lost ! He is led to consider the humility of his own nature, and to exclaim with Job, to the great Author of all things : " IVhat is man, that Zhou shouldefit magniftj him ? and that thou shoiildcst set thiJie heart nj)07i him ?'''* From the Table Rock, which projected up- wards of fifty feet before its fall (in part) a few years ago, similar ideas of the grandeur of the Cataract are excited. In looking over this tre- mendous precipice, horror seizes the inmost feeling. The point of projection extends shelv- ing over the frightful gulph, by a thin layer of rocks, at the top, about two feet in thickness ; under which it is completely hollowed out. Few j)ersons dare look over without extend- ing themselves flat. The appearance of any one on the rock, in an erect posture, when looking down, will thrill the stoutest heart. The beholder, however, is amply remunerated, by the view from this spot. At first, deep amazement is wrought into the sublime ; and G 1^^ i % (1 I it' J^v 1/ ■i iY m 74 soon changes to the terrible. A vast and gloomy cavern below, in which the whirlwind constantly plays, — the agitated waters in the abyss, — together with the stunning noise, — all conspire to strike the attention. Eyes, ears, and heart are arrested. On beholding the immense masses which have occasionally fallen, you can- not help shuddering at the dreadful possibility, that the next moment may precipitate that por- tion on which you are standing. Still you stand, and gaze on the terrific, infatuating pro- spect. At this moment a lovely rainbow dis- plays its brightening beauties to the sun. It rises from the foot of the Cataract, as divided by Iris Island ; which it encircles in its curve towards the American sheet. When seen under the ad- vantages of a powerful mid-day sun, the hues assume a brighter and more vivid appearance. Beneath the impending arch, which snozv white froth supports, is stretched the varying screen, tipped in crimson hues or blazing gold. This rainbow assumes a different form, according to the motion of the spray. Let me not pass un- noticed here the sheet of water, as seen from this spot. In the centre of the Fajl, where it is hea- viest, the water assumes a clear green appearance, and leaps in unbroken columns of the same hue ; rill meeting, they are lost in the foam of the ba- 7b yin. The horse-shoe thus continues to hollow out, from the constant weight of water, which draws towards the centre, as it approaches to take the leap. Its course seems partially inter- rupted by a small island, at no considerable dis- tance above the Falls. There was seen on this island, a little while ago for several days togetherj a deer ; but disappearing in the night, he must no doubt have descended the Falls. Several other islands and rocks present themselves to view in the rapids above, within the distance of three quarters of a mile. Upon the whole, this view of the rapids, is as interesting as any other which the Falls afford : it is incomprehensibly grand to behold the entire current of the river, rushing over uneven rocks, in a descent of about eighty feet, and bearing down all resistance, with sweeping impetuosity. The effect is heightened, from the Table Rock, as the whole length of the rapids is seen. The velocity of the stream, its amazing power, its white rufHed surface, and sea of foam, raised by the ineffectual opposition of rocks, that in promiscuous confusion lie strew- ed over its bed ; all which, together with what the eye at any single glance embraces, conspire to elevate the soul to *he exalted pinnacle of sub- limity. Surely, thought I, in this rapturous gaze, il ;!| ^\ 1 f> <1 .i.» IV n i te no where has nature, among all her works, con- trived to throw together so much beauty, with such terrific grandeur. In contemplating the views which surround the Falls, it will be perceived how admirably adapted, for displaying all its beauties, is the present form : indeed were any other assumed, the birds'Cye viezv would be lost ; whereas now the whole is com- prehended. From the roof of the Pavilion, I have often been sated by the delights of this rapturous prospect : it is the highest point of ele- vation. Over against you is Iris and the other island, breaking the Falls, called the American and Canada; which otherwise had been united into one. In front of these islands is a precipice of impending rocks, encircled to the very edge, by graceful trees ; which extend their beauteous verdure to diversify and overlook the scenery, of this romantic spot. A ddep chasm below is seen, into which the river tumbles, and is lost to the view ; while the mind is left musing, in astonish- ment. The view to the north, is bounded by a wild unbroken forest, and surrounding hills, not sufficiently high and distant ; so that they inter- cept, and render it limited : in no other way does the scenery appear defective. To the south and east, the view is more open ; and there is a gradual declivity near the river, which extends its flat surface to a considerable distance, above the rapids. In this direction the landscape, which a few years ago afforded but a dreary waste, is now diversified with villas and improving farms. The savage hunter of these wilds may look, with melancholy hopelessness, on the loss of his pa- ternal inheritance. 9th. There is a collection of mills and fac- tories, ranged along on the American side, as also on the British : from any of them the view of the rapids is fine. I think the best is from the village which is distinguished by the name of Manchester, from whence the bay extends east- ward towards Navy and Grand Island. The view also from the eastern side of Goat Island, is much of the same kind. The river or strait of Niagara, after reuniting below Grand Island, pur- sues a w^esterly course for three miles, and at the Falls turns suddenly rorth-east. Before ar- riving at the bend, the stream is contracted, from • one mile and a half to three quarters, in breadth ; and dashing with impetuosity, like a troubled ocean, descends for half a mile over an uneven bed of vocks, and tumbles into the gulph at thv^ point of the angle. The gradual de&xent of these rapids is computed at more than seventy fcet^ Q 2 ^ ^^ •* .. V ■ , .* ■■i -.■-•toi.JH*.'.,.^.. , 78 i/M / k Both the foam of the current, and its velocity, oon- spire to render this prospect pleasing, particularly if viewed in a horizontal direction. Whatever comes in reach is drawn by the suction towards the middle of the stream, and must inevitably be precipitated over the Falls. It is dangerous to pass across the river, and never attempted even at two miles above the Falls, by the most experienced boatmen. Not long ago two young men, becoming intoxicated, had anchored their canoe near Chippewa, and fell asleep. Too late was it discovered, that they had drifted, and were drawn into the current, without the possi- bility of any relief. One of them leaped out into the stream, and the other, adhering to the canoe, was precipitated into the gulph. Both were dashed in pieces against the rocks, without any trace or vestige being left. Every thing precipated from these Falls, meets with the same fate. Even logs are ground in pieces, sawing against one another as they descend, or lodge by the way. They appear below, shattered and ground at the ends, or shivered by the weight cl water. In the same manner animals of every description, even water-fowl coming down are dashed and killed, or crippled. At particular seasons, the persons who wait to pick up the game which descends, are amply remunerated ro for their pains. Fish too are not unfrequently taken up below, rendered lifeless by the weight of falling water. There is but one more description, which I shall give of these interesting parts ; and that is from the position, immediately under the sheet of water. I have dwelt more particularly on some, by reason of the increasing beauties, displayed in each point of view, that can be taken. Having descended the winding staircase, on the Canada side, my two companions and I made our way, through eddying currents of wind and spray, and over rugged piles of rocks, that have fallen from the precipice. As you advance towards the Falls, under the lee of the curvated banks, the breathing is not very difficult ; and there is here an oppor- tunity afforded to contemplate the Cataract. You feel more sensible of the height and weight of its waters, from this, than any other position. The imprisoned ocean has burst its confines, and makes the very ground tremble. The cavern formed by the projecting rocks, extends for some distance behind the sheet of water ; and were not the difficulty of breathing great, its en- trance would be easy. Having advanced a few yards within the dark recess, we were all driven back, for want of breath, completely drenched. •r. ■ >(. ■* «? w«-^**', »,. i :*<*Br* ( <\i V I 80 One of my companions encouraged me to make a second attempt, which he also did, with little better success than before. Proceeding onward through a copious shower-bath, trickling down the back to the very pores of the skin, and almost suffocated by the sulphureous blast, I gained the interior of this watery cave. The difficulty had diminished after passing the outer edge of the Fall, and my guide assured me, that now there was no more danger, but to keep from slip- ping. Innumerable quantities of eels, driven from their lurking-places by our intrusion, glid- ed between our feet, if not trod upon, and rush- ed downwards. But for the whirlwind's storm and deafening roar, these massy volumes might be fancied the wall of some fairy palace. On looking upwards the lucid stream appears curv- ing overhead, illumined to phosphoric bright- ness, by the piercing sun-beams ; and sustained at the very point of intersection, upon the dark, rocky pile which completes the cone at its base. Immersed in awful sublimity, I paced the recesses of this gloomy abode, both real and fanciful, — subterraneous, — aerial and aquatic, — over a floor of shelving fragments ; and without any other dread than that of being crushed by a falling rock, or precipitated into the unfathomed abyss. After ^i- 'r it ( .vV*?:s?r«.4-<' ._:>.....,. U,-^>*.»" ■k 81 advancing, as far as imprudent curiosity had ever attempted, I attended to my guide's direc- tions, and retracing my steps, with a steady foot, returned to the inn ; where I joined my two com- panions * • within the distance of a mile above the Falls, on the Canada side, is to be seen the bwning spring, to which I paid •A visit. It is situated close to the edge of the river, and is co- vered by a small wooden building. The gas issues from a tube inserted for the purpose, exhibiting a bright red flame suffi- cient to ignite a candle or any other combustible matter, im- irediately on being applied. In rainy weather the blaze burn9> more vividly than at any other timci r L, ) : ' l-y i] W-. ,j|Wr^ff(r^ ;V''^ • * *sl J, . 1 ■■ ^ ^ 1 K. -•' 1 '.'■\f: ■.V.^t^k ■' ; 1 ,.r .' ''-.ry v-jl '*': '-' lis.'':' "V- V' • :' CHAPI'ER VIII. Departure from Niagara Falls — Route on the Canada side : Water Scenery — Newark — Lake Ontario : York : Steam* Boat : Sermon : Party on board — Recollections of the War. s't'- ',.. ■^^-,-,. '.'-i- «« -«*<■ The party now began to consult concerning the most suitable route, and measures for our return. We determined to go by the way of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrance river, to Mon- treal ; and thus having settled matters, we set off on the 10/// of August^ in the afternoon. It had been proposed to travel the Ridge road* on the way to Rochester, and to take the American steam-boat, at Genesee river : but in this I was ^.■%^*dr...• A. « * This appellation is given to the Ridge road in consequence of its running on a bank, supposed originally to have confined Lake Ontario. How far the idea may be correct, I will not take upon me to determine, as it involves a question in the theory of the earth concerning primitive formations. This bank or ridge, about fifteen feet high, is formed of gravel, similar in quality to that which is found on the present shores of the lake, from which it is distant between five and eight miles. ■■'•« ■•••'*■■ ^ - vx.;' . ^^-v'-'v W ;-V< ■,%. v^. ^.yA^^.<^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ // :/. f/i 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ m IIIIIM IIIIM 1.4 2.5 2.2 12.0 18 1.6 m. V] ^? ^a m -'*'' /. '/ M Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREbf WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 o i/.A 'i /|pe ' '•K' \ 84 I- I'i >> :i. '■ i t. tt overruled by the majority, for my two " com- pagnons de voyage^^ rather than wait for the American, had concluded to try the English boat, to sail from Newark. By this means, we missed seeing Lewiston, Fort George, the village of the Tuscarora Indians, and Sackett^s Harbour. The road to Queen ston passes through a fine country, where several good farms are situated. The settlements bear the appearance of having been long made ; and from what I learnt, it does not seem that the inhabitants considered the taxes on their property over-burdensome. We stopped in the vicinity of Queenston, to ascend the Heights, still crowned by a redoubt and the remains of batteries ; where the British general fell, in the late war. The prospect from this spot is fine, and the view commanding the river, Lewiston, and the adjacent country, very diversi- fied. The town is at the foot of the Heights, and on the water's edge. It appears rather in a decaying condition ; and is so situated that the rains wash th« streets. The road continues along the banks of the Niagara pursuing its windings. The slow, solemn tide sweeps through a channel of rocks, in sullen dignity. The water assumes a deep green appearance, caused by the shade of trees, and height of the banks. These gradually dimi^ f.- V. .^.^ii.. .. ii--ii^iliin ,10^- So ;nsome. m, to ascend nish as you approach the Ontario Lake, from three hundred to thh'ty feet ; or rather the calcu- lation more properly applies to the whole distance between the falls and the lake. The route is ren- dered interesting by the deep shade of the waters, the majestic height of the banks, and protruding rocks of immense size. These overhang the pre- cipice, around whose brow the stunted forest has interwoven its bushy mantle, and twined its har- dy roots. The great depth of the river, the sweeping impetuosity of its current, together with the boldness of its shores, conspire to raise in the mind impressions of the sublime. This character is remarkable in the water sc^nerv of America; her rivers collecting the waters of hills and valleys innumerable, roll their massy volumes for thousands of miles, forming immense lakes ; and as if impatient of this confinement, bursting again over cataracts, sweeping violently through rapids, and winding a deep channel in the plain, their treasures are contributed to the ocean. Newark has been rebuilt since the late war, and its appearance is thought to be much finer than before. The burning of this town by an individual, though disavowed by the American public, was the cause of a system of warfare highly destructive and injurious on both sides. H .-■^-'•. V 86 U- r The inhabitants of Lewiston, Buffalo, and Black Rock, together with other villages in the neigh- bourhood, suffered dreadfully at an inclement sea- son, from fire and the devastations of the enemy; as did also the village of Tuscarora Indians. It were difficult indeed to justify even a retaliatory measure of this kind ; and therefore more to be lamented, that the opprobrium with which the presiding general was covered, for his apology or mistake of orders, had not effectually satisfied the armies on the frontiers. The sentiment is very beautifully expressed by a late English traveller : ** Each nation may charge the other with many acts of devastation, and perhaps some unneces- sary bloodshed ; but each could also call to mind, amid many deeds of gallantry, traits of high feeling and generous humanity. Should the reverse side of the picture be alone retained in sight ? — Perish the records of glory, and warlike achievement, if they serve but to perpetuate na- tional animosities, and whet the sword of a future contest!" • 11th. Previously to the hour of starting, we had supped at the inn. At 12 o'clock — midnight —we repaired on board the steam-boat Frontenac, captain M'K. when she immediately sailed, and I as speedily took possession of my birth. As '-.'■■■.ji. ■>^. . ..,; ,, .ft * 3»=-t!# * l\ 87 I fell asleep in a few moments afterwards, no- thing more ocurred to my knowledge, till we ar- rived at Yo/k on the opposite side of the lake. The stir here soon roused me ; and having shaved and dressed, I took a walk on shore at an earl^ hour. ' -'-'■ ■'■''.' ■'•* ^- - • ■- ' - :' '-^^'^■ This place, commonly called Little Tori, con- tains a parliament house, besides a few other public, and about one hundred frame buildings. The seat of government for the upper province being located at this place, renders it in the esti- mation of its inhabitants of some importance; but for which circumstance, the ascendancy over Kingston had long since been lost, and York have dwindled into an insignificant village. The possessors of the property are principally influ- ential in upholding this system, for the sake of preventing a depreciation. To a stranger there is nothing particular which strikes attention, nor does it possess any advantages, either as a port or military post. The neck of land which extends into the lake is very inappropriately called Gibral* tar Point, bearing no kind of resemblance to the place from whence the name originated. Having exchanged some freight and passen- gers, we sailed again at 8 a. m. Soon after breakfast it was manifest, that our friend the . a 'Zmu^.. w- U- 88 I) : reverend doctor and the captain had conferred t^-'^ gether, for the purpose of public worship ; and the preparatory arrangements on deck, with chairs, benches, 8cc. being made, the service was begun, to a company of fifty or sixty according to the Presbyterian form. He delivered a prayer suitable for the occasion, and introduced the Bri- tish government and royal family ; afterwards we sang an hymn, and then followed the discourse. The doctor was perfectly at home in extempore speaking, but I do not consider that proverbial expressions comport with the clerical station. Very unfortunately, for the subject which he treated, there was too much anecdote introduced ; for it might be perceived, that the risible facul- ties of his audience were restrained with much difficulty. And indeed in such instances, as an old woman telling the parson who agreed with her own story, that she was a very great hypo- crite, " you lie. Sir j" and of the perfect man calling upon Whitefield, and receiving from him as a trial thereof, the contents of the •wash-hand' Boxvlj in his face ; — it is not'a matter of surprise, that the discourse should have left an impression of the volatile, rather than the serious. It was observed too by the sailors, that " he was a fine preacher," — " he tells a good story." — So ^^^^JllligM j i.j«k*^'- jik. - 89 e service was apt is human depravity to be uppermost, that every effort ought to be made to deliver the truths of the gospel with that dignity which admits of no subterfuge, or improper application : an error of this nature is but too convertible to an improper use. The party on board were not very numerous, but various in character. It being Sunday, they harmonized the more, for no kind of games or diversions are permitted, as on other days. The bulk of our party consisted of Southerners, Eng- lish, and Tankees ; each distinguishable from the other by a marked peculiarity of traits. The first has arrived at a degree of superciliousness, from the nature of slave-holding ; which, impro- perly applied, has a tendency to make the pos- sessor rate, in his own estimation, among a race superior to the rest of mankind : while the Eng- lishman regards his servant as a fellow-being, and does not deny him the privelege of an in- ferior, at the time of exacting the duty. The one having a sullen haughtiness within himself, is regardless of the world's opinion ; and throwing as it were a look around him, relies with indiffer- tnce on the result of merit, which the die has al- ready cast. He takes no pains either to seek or continue an acquaintance considered inferior to himself; but his heart is warm, and his exertions H 2 'I 'A I jp> I «T , II ^O"*^- •'♦"x— ■ '*■*• ^»,.«-.<>,V<,. -■i«t'K^s^' ■trA'-ffi^-':' (. ^.♦_<*-.ri-.v 90 ardent, where friendship, or even intimacy, has once commenced. Neither is apt to make advances; but although you may travel a week in their com- pany, without much except general conversation, it will however easily be learnt from the one, that he is attached to his country and luv/s, and from the other, the extent of his plantation and num- ber of negroes. With respect to the Yankee, I have little to remark, but that he difters from the other two, both in enterprise and inquisitiveness. He never is at a loss for an introduction, and if no other mode suggest itself, out of mere good nature he will contradict, in order that light may be thrown upon the subject of conversation. The world will ever continue indebted to his brethren for a profundity of information, which otherwise had mouldered in oblivion. — I have not much to say with respect to the rest of the company ; — the captain and a few others were Scotch, and the bulk of the crew Irishmen ; either of whose nations is well calculated for arduous and enterprising pursuits : perhaps none in the world under proper regulations, will sustain more difficulties, or go through greater exertion. They are a light-hearted people, and carry on work ivith much good humour. > . .,o .« The length of Lake Ontario is one hundred ^...O.^v.,^ ..*>.«.. «K ,«r^t;A:r-' 91 f Jl me hundred and seventy- one miles, the breadth variable, and the circumference upwards of four hundred and sixty. The shores are generally regular and low, and there arc few good harbours. The Genesee, Black, and Oswego are the principal rivers which empty into it, on the southern shore ; and the Trent on the northern. Its most common depth is about eighty, but in some places it has not been sounded at three hundred and fifty fa- thoms. Though inferior in extent to the remain- ing four great western lakes, its scenery and Is- lands, particularly at the eastern extremity, are not the least interesting. 12M. The two steam-boats, which now navi- gate this lake, as is usual on all the American wa- ters, are very commodiously fitted up. Our two nights' lodging, on board theFrontenac, afforded a good opportunity, for ascertaining her accommo- dations. Her state-rooms contain four births each, and therbeds and pillows have no other inconve- nience, except a scarcity of feathers. If one of our passengers tells a correct story, he took the trou- ble to count, and found the pillow under his head to contain only nineteen feathers and a half. I do not pretend to vouch for this, as probably he may have made some omission. The table spread before us, was certainly very fairly sup- I \¥ ) ^-'-% » ^^'^'fls^Sti^'ifrk^i %\tl ■t£'A^*-i«.'*^ ^^"^^"le^? \ K k: ^':r■,.i,^.^^ ' I , .^ ■ - ., ,rt v. .' t V V » ' n . » .*-'' I-.. -9 •J .' , li •^i^j^w--- -.-.■» ..v(-.«-_ * ." • > > . ,-, r. .. CHAPTER IX. Entrance into Kingston— Suggestions concerning the De- scent of the St. Lawrence — American Climate. As we sailed towards Kingston, the lake be- came narrower, and there was more interest evi- dently excited. The view which before present- ed in the horizon only an unbounded expanse of water, now began to be diversified with island scenery, and the effects of cultivation grew more apparent on the approaching shores. The sail- boat and batteau are seen piercing the smooth bo- som of the water, and occasionally the canoe of an Indian ; while some of the most improved plan- tations and farm houses in Upper Canada are presented to view along the banks. There is something also exceedingly magnificent and im- posing to the mind of a stranger, on approach- ing the harbour of Kingston. The eastern side consists of fortifications, and there is a general indication of military strength, marking an as- pect of stern grandeur. A row of barracks on an elevated situation presents a formidable ap- ) » ' -s^ghmt»>V .^.atrt*- ^»^.'' '.Ijf^.-.a^.'TTr i-; I' fill :■ 5 i 1 ( r\ 96 pearancc to the visitor from the lake ; and on the other hand the rocky banks afford a solid foun- dation, for the low wooden buildings of the town. f .:' . Kingston, once the capital of Upper Canada, is pleasantly situated at the head of the St. Law- rence on the north shore, opposite Wolf Island. It occupies the site of old Fort Frontenac, and has an excellent harbour, where the shipping on Lake Ontario for the most part winter. The large vessels which are employed on the lake seldom go down below Kingston, although the river is navigable to Prescott, seventy miles further ; where, and at Ogdensburgh, there are situated depots for goods transported in boats ; by which means the trade with lower Canada is facilitated. On entering you immediately ascend by a gradual rise, which is observable throughout the whole town. The basis is on a lime-stone quarry, having only a thin layer of earth upon the sur- face, and disposed in horizontal strata ; which of course can be raised without much difficulty for immediate use. These advantages seem to have been overlooked by the citizens, who still con- tinue without a flagged foot-way, notwithstanding the thousands which are annually spent for i^'!>-^':^-'i.'.' >A43lt!£i^ ■U \ ' M h ke ; and on the I a solid foun- lildings of the oper Canada, is the St. Law- : Wolf Island. Frontenac, and he shipping on winter. The d on the lake 1, although the seventy miles urgh, there are )rted in boats ; lower Canada ascend by a throughout the •stone quarry, ipon the sur- •ata ; which of h dinSculty for seem to have kho still con- (twithstanding lly spent for 97 other purposes. ** The computation of its inha- bitants is about four thousand, some few of whom are Yankees ; but the bulk consists of English and Scotch traders. I think the disparity of rank between the rich and the poor is very remarkable, as well as the neglect of education among the lower orders. Local advantages have had no doubt considerable influence in establishing this ascendancy among the people, over the Ignorant French Canadian. These differences will always exist in an enterprising and mercantile, more than in an agricultural community. There seems also a clashing between the government and the indi- vidual interest, and thus are the necessary expen- ditures for beai deifying and improving the town deferred : but these circumstances may be ac- counted for more probably on the supposition, that the inhabitants, who appear to be composed of foreigners, look upon themselves merely as temporary sojourners for the sake of making a fortune, which they intend to spend in their na- tive countries. There are, however, some regu- lar and capacious streets, together with a Market * It is stated that the cost of the St. Lawrence frigate amounted to ^300,000, and that the disbursements at Kings- ton during the last war were =giOOO Sterling per diem. II i sd ■ ■^■^■'.■",;*kw.L. miiM^- 98 >*• / I V I. place, Episcopal church, Hospital, and small Thea- tre, built by the military for private performances, and a few neat buildings of stone, though the generality are constructed of wood. It contains also many stores and warehouses, and the wharves are lined with sloops and batteaux, which indi- cate a place suitable for, though there is evident- ly visible what is usually termed a stagnation in, business. The coin of the States, as also that of Halifax at the rate of five shillings to the dollar, are both current here. 13th. Kingston is singularly happy in its site for naval purposes, being divided into three parts, each possessing an equal facility of water com- munication. The navy-yard occupies the middle station, and separates the fort from the town. The fort is built of stone, and has two towers which overlook the lake. It is chiefly intended for the protection of the navy-yard, which it com- mands. There are also palisaded batteries, strengthened with block-houses on the point of the town, and on Point Frederick at the navy- yard. There have lately been erected, in the im- mediate vicinity of Kingston, on the shores, a number of barracks, capable of accommodating several thousand troops. Besides these there is a large wooden Government-house, with all the -4i- 99 appendages lor the military ; and a considerable naval establishment kept up at this place. Our steam-boat party (which indeed was very considerable, and among whom were two Ame- rican officers) determined on paying a visit to the navy-yard and barracks. A note to this effect was despatched to the commanding officer, to know if the regiment would parade, and at what hour. To which an answer arrived, that at four o'clock in the afternoon, it was the usual custom ; when, if agreeable to our party. Colonel J. would be pleased to see them. We accordingly repair- ed to the barracks and saw the exercise performed, very much to our gratification and astonishment. There exists too glaring a distinction between un- disciplined and regular troops not to produce an immediate decision in favour of the latter. The gentlemanly conduct of the officers induced the party (among whom were some ladies) to accept of an invitation to visit the apartments of the barracks. We were exceedingly indebted to their politeness, as well as to that of their ladies, to whom we were introduced, who seemed to take great pleasure in contributing to our informa- tion. On returning we were saluted by the band with several patriotic tunes, among which were the two national airs of our respective countries. ■|H HI ' ii ."'' m \ % .ytiJ'.Jt i**^,^? -t;ji#firu-Masi4if* ,^m*' y.^'-' ''i 100 We directed our attention in the next place to the navy-yard ; which is situated on a narrow tongue of land. There does not appear to be more than sufficient room for the construction of a single ship of the line at one time, together with the timber, workshops, and stores. The skeleton of a first rate vessel remains still bleaching on the stocks as the war left it ; although the origin was premature, there appears none the less pros- pect of a timely end : it may at least be said to be seasoned to wind and weather, if not war- worn in the service. Very soon after our arrival at this place, our whole party determined to wait for the steam- boat, which was to sail the next day for Prcs- cott. Previously to this measure, various at- tempts had been made to procure passages by chartering a small vessel for Ogdensburgh, but the terms could not be settled. Several of the Canadian batteaux bound to La Chine offered to take us, but these also were declined. The ac- commodations, joined to the haggard looks of the boatmen, appeared so uninviting as to induce a belief, that whatever may have been lost in the scenery on the water, was probably repaid by the health and pleasure of the party. These boats carry passengers, subject to finding themselves ►•"^ s toi . provisions ; and, if the weather be fine, and no particular impedinnent happen, arrive in about two days and a night. In case of stopping at night, there may be accomn\odations procured on shore j but these arc often of a very indifferent kind. This route cannot possibly be recommended for the descent of the river, particularly in the autumn. The chills immediately succeeding the scorching heats of the day, few constitutions are sufficiently robust to undergo with impunity. In these northern waters, the varieties of climate produced at this season by the uncleared districts in their vicinity are the occasion of what is term- ed the intermitting or lake fever, so fatal to strangers, and not unfrequently proving a serious disease to the inhabitants of the country. It is a well established fact from observation, that the American climate is found to vary about ten or twelve degrees of extreme heat and cold, from the same parallels of latitude in Europe. This circumstance is most perceptible in lati- tudes higher than thirty-six degrees north. Par- ticular situations also are subject to changes of temperature, more or less, according to the pre- valence of the south or south-west winds. The neighbourhood of Lake St. Clair is mentioned by C. F. Volney (Tableau du Climat, torn. i. p. I 2 Hi )! 'f4l iiS Aw' I 4 11 i '^:M,^,- ■'C'^^^ 'h 102 166.) as an instance of this kind ; where no other fruits except winter pears and apples will ripen. " An fort Detroit le climat ressemblc encore a celui de Niagara, son parallele ; mais des le lac Saint Clair, les colons trouvent les froids beau- coup plus longs et plus rigoureux qu'a Detroit. Les vents de sud et de sud-ouest, qui tempcrent I'Erie, deviennent plus rares ici, et Ton ne peut y murir d'autres fruits que des pommes et des poires d'hiver." He is of opinion that these cir- cumstances take place in consequence of the above named winds being less frequent near this lake ; whereas in other places an abundance of summer fruits are produced at the same parallel of latitude. There is generally experienced a proportionably greater degree of cold on the western side of Lake Erie, than at the corre- sponding latitude, on the eastern side. The ex- tremes of heat and cold too, in various parts of Canada, are found to be sudden, and the crops are sometimes cut off by frost, even in the months of July and August. Probably the best reason which appears for these differences of temperature, will be found to arise from a cause, which operates upon all the American climate. The north-west wind is the great harbinger of cold ; its influence is derived from passing over 7i^£a^a^S3S3R!PtlS*=Ji»-i>.'^-W'"''r>*-: >mMiM,* CHAPTER X. descent of the St. Lawrence— Thousand Isles— Gananoque — Remarkable Occurrence — BrockvlUe : Group of Bye» standers — Termination of the day's sail. 14M. This day promised a delightful sail among, what are usually called, in round num- bers, the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence. We had repaired on board last evening, and to our births. The steam-boat got under way at 3 A. M. The cotnpany were composed of our tra- velling party, or nearly so, from the lake The first place I remember to have seen is Gananoque^ where we stopped to take in fuel ; it is distant from Kingston about eighteen miles, in the township of Leeds, and contains a custom- house. The river Gananoque, before the divi- sion of the province of Quebec, was called the Thames. It is intended to be made navigable by means of locks ; as high however as the first ra- pids the water is deep, and the shore bold : the current also flows slowly in a channel from twelve to fifteen feet deep, into an excellent har- il i # -'ti (■.\ \ -..^.i ■^; F I 106 'li bour. A settlement is going on in the neigh- bourhood of the head hikes of the Rideau, aad a canal has been cut, to avoid the falls, under the patronage of government. The settlers are chiefly disbanded soldiers, who draw their pay from the quarter-master-general's department, for improving the lands. A line of communication between Montreal and Kingston, by way of the Ottawa, will thus be secured. Since the estab- lishment of this settlement Gananoquc has risen considerably in importance. The Islands which crowd the St. Lawrence have all a granite basis, and the beds also of the Gananoque and Kingston rivers are formed of the same stone. Immense masses occasionally project from the banks, on one of which projec- tions a block-house, forming a prominent object, is seen from a great distance. These banks are composed of lime-stone hollowed out by the wa- ter, and are generally about twenty feet in height. There is something exceedingly impressive in the scenery of this river. A savage wildness prevails along its shores, except here and there a speck of cultivation, where the settler's hut is seen, or a little village breaks in upon the scene. Sometimes you meet a solitary Indian, gracefully standing in the bow, and winding his canoe ■-■-Af . A Air^aJ^auijil ^Itl, .-' WiL^\^ k*J-^iCl. ^ ^i- *ti.W«t"\»i.^- tor around the Islands, or engaged in fishing. The black cedars which line the shores, or crown the rocky Islands, thickly scattered over the im- mense surface of the river, produce a savage mo- notony. The principal interest excited by this scenery, arises probably in tracing the course which the boat is about to make. " The Earth was made so Tarious, that the mind Of desultory man, studious of change, And pleas'd with novelty, might be indulged. Prospects, however lovely, may be seen Till half their beauties fade ; the weary sight, Too well acquainted with tlieir smile, slides off Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes." The Islands appear so close together, that fre- quently till you approach quite near, no opening can be perceived ; when suddenly you pass close between, or skirt round by a short tack, into an open expanse. It cannot be imagined that the lake or river is so wide as ten miles at, and for some distance below Kingston, according to report j by reason of the impossibility of seeing, at any one time, more than one third of that distance, on account of intervening Islands. One of the longest of these, next in size to Grand, is called Wells' Island, which commences, at the distance ) I :f I' ^#"^•-^■^1 .-t**?. n I' 108 of seven miles below Gananoque, and is about fifteen miles in length. There were two very re- markable small ones, more elevated than the rest, and quite cleared, among those lowest down. Indeed the scenery would be much im- proved throughout the whole distance of forty miles, where the Islands disappear, if farms were more frequent. When cultivation takes place, no doubt the health of the inhabitants will also be much improved. Before I dismiss the subject of the Islands, in- teresting for so constant a diversity of scenery, I cannot help mentioning one circumstance more ; peculiarly so, for the excitement which it raised in our feelings. As we approached a rocky emi- nence, about a quarter of a mile from the main shore, a deer was seen lying down. The beauteous creature had no doubt sought this, as a place of security ; nothing being more common for them than taking to the water, when closely hunted. From the moment I perceived the animal, I took unconsciously an interest in its safety, and wished of all things its escape, but it seemed as if the fates had selected their victim. No sooner was it relieved from one persecution, than another threa- tens ; for our crew had formed a resolution of a different kind from mine, and the boat was pre- »4wyC,k^jg-... i..-:-t^' ,' k v-Jr, ilii:*i^jR''.;,:"iju^ "•f^jiOilwr i*p 109 pared tor the pursuit. The tie r perceiv i rig their intention, and being cut ofl' from letrcnting to- wards the shore by the position of the steam-boat, leaped into the water on the opposite side, and swam towards the middle of the river. I began now to lose all hope, as it was evident the boat gained speed, and would soon overtake tlic prize. My anticipations were realized, and my heart beat in unison with the bellowings of the poor fugitive when dragged into the boat, and its cap- ture announced by the exulting cry of the boat- men. The animal was now soon deposited on deck, with the two fore-legs secured, and the steam-boat got under way again. The beau- teous mien and delicate limbs of the trembling captive attracted the admiration of our company, rhey were all agreed that the stranger, proving a doe, should live ; but while some through com- passion, were desirous of releasing her legs, and attaching the rope to her neck for the sake of deck-range, the more judicious were for tying also the hind legs ; in this perplexity, tl.ey had forgotten to put on the second tie, before unloos- ing the first. Finding herself released, she de- tided the controversy, and at the same time her own choice of the mode of living, by a leap into the stream. Never did I rejoice more than at K I t ) i ^ no i8burgh : Local Advantages and Improvements — Pres- cott: Incidents — Upper Canada side of the St. Lawrence — Remarks on the Country and Habits — Lake St Francis — Entrance into Lower Canada — Rapids — Villages — Steam-boat Circle — Approach towards Montreal. 15th. Ogdensburgh is situated on the east side of the Osvvegatchie river, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. It is a thriving village, has a safe and spacious harbour, and in consequence of the commencement of the rapids three miles be- low, has become a considerable place of trade, for merchandize transported in boats from Low- er Canada. The countv court is held at this place, which contains about six hundred inhabi- tants. There were formerly erected here some wooden barracks and a military forfification, con- sisting of two stone buildings, ceded to the United States by the British Government in 17'96, The country about here exhibits one of those striking instances of the rapid improvements, so frequently witnessed in the new settlements throughout the States. It is remarkably fertile \ iM h f) i! ./,. IIG in many places, and bears the marks of suc- cessful culth ation. The wild gloom of the de- sert and the log-house have already given place to thriving plantations, and the embellishments which usually succeed a numerous population. We were unsuccessful here, as at Kingston, in procuring a passage for La Chine by the batteaux. In addition to the inconveniencies there expe- rienced, there were now contrary winds to con- tend with, and the boatmen cannot be prevailed upon at such times to depart. There is a possi- bility of being in luck sometimes, and finding the best opportunities from hence. Passage boats frequently leave Ogdensburgh, and descend as far as La Chine in less than two days. There is no kind of danger, as they are furnished with good pilots ; and every necessary accommoda- tion may be procured for the comfort of such persons who prefer a passage by water. There is no possibility of procuring convey- ances towards Montreal on this side of the river ; in consequence of which we lost some of our company here, who set off for Utica in the stage, rather than wait for the regular line of stages on the other side. The remainder of the party, how- ever, which consisted of the largest number, re- crossed the river, which is about two mile5 \v)Je 117 here, and arrived at Prescott ; where we had the pleasure of meeting again with our travelling cir- cle, consisting of the families of the reverend doc- tor (before named) and of Mr. C. of Carolina. They had been much more successful than our- selves, and by anticipating the regular stage, made up the load of an extra, and thus deprived us of the co.npany of our female companions. Deter- mined however to sustain this double misfortune in the best manner possible, we engaged the places for to-morrow, and in the interim sought amends by making observations on the town and vicinity of Prescott. This town is situated on a bank rather more elevated than Ogdensburgh, its rival in business and population. The growth has been rapid, and its prospects continue to be promising, at least judging from the stores on the wharves, and the merchandize landing and re-shipping. The pleasantest situation, and probably the best accommodations, are to be had at the steam-boat Hotel, near the river. There are two neat, small frame churches. Episcopal and Presbyterian, fac- ing one another, in the upper part of the town. Prescott is remarkable also for a square redoubt ">x fort, called Fort Wellington. \^th. At the hour of sunrise, the stage start- * if \ J:' ,- i i /^i '■>■..-,;*?; 118 it" 1; i ( tA ed. To our party now, were added four South- erners, a new Englander, and a Canadian ; all of whom had come from the steam-boat. Williamsburg h^ where we breakfasted, is com- posed of a few indifferent wooden buildings. Our hostess provided a comfortable meal, and rendered every civility to the party ; but the harmony which had subsisted between us had almost been interrupted by a mistake in her cal- culation ; for she insisted that one more had sat down than she had received pay for. After a deten<^'on of some minutes, the mistake was rec- tified, and the driver cracking his whip, the stage again proceeded. We noticed nothing more, at this place, than a peculiar kind of dialect ; which would pass neither for Scotch, English, Irish nor Dutch, but which yet seemed made up of them all. Near this place, we passed a few scattered families of Indians, dwelling near the road, in huts constructed of pine boards. There appear- ed amongst them a neglect of comfort and a de- gree of indolence, which proves the little pro- gress that has been produced from being closed within the pale of civilization. Like their bre- thren, deprived of the resources of the chase, f^." *L i-X \i^ Hi ^ X 119 they are fast wasting under the cftects of spi- rituous liquors. The country which we passed appeared well cultivated, and there was a degree of cheerful- ness which indicated an attachment to primitive habits ; in fact there seems to be something in the character of the people which produces this predilection for whatever is established. On this principle it may be accounted for, why the lands in Canada are not so generally settled, as in the States, where quite a contrary disposition, in favour of emigration, takes place. The Cana- dian will submit to considerable inconveniences, before he can be induced to quit the land of his forefathers. Most of the improvements are to be seen, along this part of the country, bordering within a few miles of the St. Lawrence. There is not much of the picturesque visible in passing through this country, which is inva- riably flat. The main road however pursues the course of the river, v/hich is here very rapid, and frequently obstructed by shoals and islands. The eye with pleasure regards its current impe- tuously dashing and foaming over a thousand rocks. In the channel the stream appears evi- dently lowest, forming an Incurvation when viewed at the same time with the two shores ; r r t ■'!■> %^i m] !\ A immiU'''^..jC. 120 the eflect on this account is rendered more inte- resting and pleasing. At the Long Saut^ one of the principal rapids, arc erected a number of grist and saw-mills ; whose piers or dams, pro- jecting from the beach, form an agreeable range along the Canadian shore. Notwithstanding the superior advantages of water, there are still to be seen wind-mills in operation, as well as the remains of old ones, along the shores. Nothing very remarkable has yet been discovered Vvith respect to the construction of farm-houses ; ex- cepting that they are rather lower than those in the States, they are fir-boarded in the same man- ner. There is a small village and mill at M'tllc- roches^ which place derives its nunt from the ad- jacent rapids. A few miles furtlur we arrived at CornwalU a town pleasantly situated, and last increasing. Having alighted from the stage at this place, we had the pleasure of meeting again our friends who had left us yesterday. They had been un- der the necessity of waiting here for the mail, which arrived with us, and of which the team- boat was the regular conveyance. We imme- diately embarked, and set sail. This boat, estab- lished one year ago for the navigation of Lake St. Francis^ has good accommodations for pas- sengers. The deck-range is capacious, and the Wl ■'' ^f*«i-t^«-. ..iiiJliw^Hi.,^ lUl births well fitted up. The party sat down to dinner, at an early hour, and the afternoon being exceedingly pleasant, there was every prospect of experiencing an agreeable passage. The lake is twenty-five miles long, and its greatest breadth fifteen. At the northern extremity is situated the village of St. Regis, where the Oswegatchies have a settlement, and where the boundary line between the United States and the Canadas strikes the St. Lawrence. The borders of the lake are very low, and consequently uninterest- ing ; but the range of mountains to the south and the intermediate country present a pleasing relief in the perspective. We stopped at Lancas- :cr in sight of the lake, at the distance of about half a mile, in order to change the mail-bag ; in so doing there Was time enough for a walk. Yo\i are amply repaid by the exercise, and are '^ratified with seeing a few frame buildings, com- posing the hamlet of Scotch emigrants. Soon after leaving this place the sun had just finished his regular course, and warned us of the close of another day. The bright vermilion of his departing rays shed a lustre over the western horizon, enchanting to the view, and shrouded imperceptibly the night within a purple screen. At Cotcau dii Lac you discover a change of L ■^i t-1 m 1 V -:■., ;. , Jf> '^•.■•r-;ikij,i ',■ AiJ> ; I..'^l^^ - 'j'^^iJS . 122 I'.i 'i; people, and being the first it may be excused, but the accommodations at the inn arc not much to be recommended. It is not to be sup- posed that travellers are so easily reconciled with the courtesy of French manners alone, as a substitute for indifferent fare and bad bedding. Though not, " tout ^ fait K la Parisienne," it is matter however of great consideration to be civilly treated. Situations of this kind are oc- casionally to be met with, and generally, where there is no choice for the better. After this pre- mise, it is hardly worth while to make out a bill of fare ; it may he summed up in the word sparing-^ and so I shall spare myself the trouble to repeat it. We went to bed late and rose early, heartily tired of our company, and deter- mining at all events to try to take some rest in the stage. 17th. From the time of first entering into Lower Canada, there is a perceptible difference in manners, customs, and dress, from that of Upper. The traveller is transported into a new region, where there is an immediate change in the face of the country, style of building, and mode of living as well as language. One uni- versal character is stamped throughout the whole province. The Canadian houses, seem almost ^ f'-i 123 equidistant, and consist of one story only, ele- vated high aliovi he ground, to which a log l)arn and stable arc commonly attached, with a neat plot of ground. On either shore, extends a strip of land seldom exceeding a mile in breadth, parallel to the river, and bounded by the primeval forest. The enclosures which appear within this range, in long rectangular fields, are marked with extreme care and neatness ; and not the single stump, or a tree remains. The road extends through the cultivated line, with here and there a peaked farm-house, low, and white- washed from top to bottom ; till a more thick- set cluster than the rest, becomes a village often honoured by the name of some tutelary 3aint. The humble minded Canadian peasant bows with reverence to the crucifix. Unambi- tious and submissive, he lays the burden of his cares, temporal as well as spiritual, upon the priest's shoulder ; he sows the field which was his ances- tors', and trusts, through the intercession of his saint, that the " bon Dieu" will do the rest. Dis- appointed of his hopes, and sometimes almost of sustenance in this life, he fails not to confess himself; and maintains the belief, that however he may be deserted now, the said saint will not withhold assistance from him in the next world. P \ W 1- .r^. »)-;i.-.-«,'.,,V.:. if 124 The Cedres is a village of some considerable size and appearance, but the streets are narrow. Its venerable Cathedral, with glittering spire and belfry, give it the cast of antiquity. The rapids of the Cedres terminate three miles from the Cascades, which after a course of about two miles, poui* their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis. I think from the view which we had of several Canadian batteaux descending these rapids, the effect is really admirable ; and to my fancjj^ preferable, to the pleasure which might be derived from being on board. The green billows, crested with foam and dashed from the rocky bottom, to right and left, toss at their mercy, and urge on the boats with the ra- pidity of wind. The discordant voices of the boatmen rising or falling in harsh cadence, some- times strike your ear, in exultation ; as they pass by the comparatively slow-moving stage, or hail some distant, solitary canoe. There is nothing more interesting in its effect on the mind, and yet little to describe in this scenery, except ai. imceasing grandeur. Chataugaij is a populous village, or as gene rally termed in Lower Canada, a seigniory, con- taining the Chapel and principal inn. It is situ- ated at the embouchure of the river of the samt; «: ■-.:t^Bmm. 125 name, over which is sprung the single arch of a neat stone bridge. There is an indication of buisness, and some small craft are seen floating in the little harbour. At Grand Portage or Grand jRiver, where it unites with the St. Lawrence, there are consider- able improvements in the lock navigation. We here took the steam-boat for La Chine. The Clergyman and his family, and a number of Southerners with whom we had become acquaint- ed at Niagara, had travelled with our party al- most ever since, and by this time had rendered the steam-boat circle of acquaintance very nu- merous and agreeable. A fair exchange of in- formation is one of the greatest delights in tra- velling ; you are sure in this way, to be less im- posed upon by strangers, and to obtain a know- ledge gratis^ of what is most useful. The loan of books may often be obtained, and plans of routes arranged. In this manner we continued to La Chine, without much more occurring, than what has been before related, on similar occasions. From La Chine to Montreal is seven miles. We made this drive, in a four-horse stage, which was so crouded that I chose the box seat. Con- siderable improvements are goii.^'i- on, particular- L 3 »'. h 126 Hr m-i ■ Si r I ( ■^ ly the canal, intended to convey all the produce down to Montreal, instead of stopping at La Chine. Quite tired of resting upon dreary for- ests and watery wilds, the eye becomes pleasantly relieved, by the prospect of the fair seigniory of Montreal, now opening to view. The road winds along through an uneven country, spec- kled with villas. Rich lands on either side, bounded to the north by wooded heights, and to the south by the extended blue expanse of the river, here and there interspersed with specks of islands, or ruffled by hidden rocks and the foaming rapids. On one side are seen mea- dows, extending to the margin of the river, whose shore is lined with little villages, while in front the solitary mountain, raises its dark heads, covered with trees. Lightly pac- ing their way, are seen along the road, groups of Indians, whose physiognomy forms a strik- ing contrast, with the easy expressions and plea- santry of the French ; as the squaw receives a pinch of rapee, or the passing salutation is of- fered. The facetious smile or graceful cour- tesy is readily bestowed on the good-humour- ed traveller; as he excites attention from the village cot. After descending the declivity of a ridge about two miles from Montreal, you ' .^.ui^i- ;.'v-*iti.vA^'iv*.i'u.s- 127 pass through the Tannerie^ a village celebrated for that species of trade. It is composed of wooden houses, all of one pattern and height, being less than two stories. On leaving this place the tin roofs and shining spires of the city of Montreal impose their dazzling glare upon the beholder's eye ; till the attention is fix- ed upon the stirring scene within its confines. V : m »,^)...: ■.jtH- 136 '• The beauteous maid, tliut bids the world at'iju. Oft of that world will snatch a fo>>d review i ■..: ;• Qft at the shrine neglect her beads, to trace . Some social scene, some dear familiar face, rorgot when first a father's stern controul Chas'd the gay visions of her opening soul : And ere, with iron tongue, the vesper-bell Bursts through the cypress-walk, the convent-cell, Oft will her warm and wayward heart revive, .> To lore «nd joy still tremblingly alive." RooEitn. With respect to the religious tenets — the habits and manners — the political and military regula- tions — of the Canadian population ; there is much room for remark. It does not appear that there is much ubbimilation between Upper and Lower Ca- nada, and in some respects there is a strange con- trast. In one thing particularly they agree, and that is, in an utter dislike for their republican neighbours. This hostility is accounted for among the poorer classes, by tlie influence of Priestcraft J and among the rich, by jealousy of the power and wealth in the Republic. In religious matters, the Canadians, generally, are enveloped in the same infatuated superstition and ignorance, as those who fust migrated from their native France: change of government has had no effect. As long as these colonies are guarded from foreign attacks, no matter whether by French % ' ''s fit \Ji~^tjifA!/t. I ' ^i^itfatiefKii ^.^A . h 'i 137 or British arms, and the Catholic religion con- tinues to have the ascendency, her priests will cleave to the ruling power, in hoodwinking the people, and at the same time, the people will pamper and worship the priests. At perpetual variance with this system of ratiocination, the United States has interposed her rising influence. The proximity of the States, their religious liber- ty, and growing institutions, cannot fail to be considered by these spiritual shepherds, with sus- picious dread. Their interest however is secur- ed by thus adhering to the ruling party, which on the other hand is governed by priestly influence. So turns the wheel ! The priest lives on the fat of the land, and secures his tenure by means most effectual in continuing the ignorance of the people ; such as not permitting marriages with hereticks, or reading any book without his know- ledge : while the Canadian peasant, too poor to be oppressed, and too ignorant to complain, takes no share in government concerns, and casting his religion on the priest^s shoulder, • " Is always easy, reign whoever may, And laughs the sense of misery, far away." Were the rising youth in Canada educated at * schools dispersed throughout the villages, and M 2 .i h. i ii;.,..M.^iAij.. :a?,. ^Sa^GdL. •*»-r:rt. -.irf**-'- '» J ■; nil [■|^ nill ' P|i' If J ' Imi i 138 thickly settled districts ; their minds would gra- dually improve in literary pursuits, and imbibe the principles of morality. All distinction of manners and national feeling between old and new settlers would soon disappear, and the peo- ple be united into one, in the course of a few generations, were the English language taught in their schools. A similar result has taken place in several French colonies, in the United States, in less than half a generation. The progress of French Louisiana since its cession to the United States, affords an example ; and also the same may be expected at Alabama and the Floridas. A peo- ple uninlightened and superstitious, like that of Canada, have in the case of the first, been trans- formed in a few years, to a wonderful polish. American colonies (as they may be termed) are thus turned into wealthy States, and produce an additional gain, instead ef being an expense to the nation. It is indeed very much to be wondered at, that more pains have not been taken, to amalgamate the old afd new population, in breaking dowH this strongly rooted distinction, so opposite to English schools. No better reason than that already mentioned can be given, the fear of an interference between the temporal and spiritual 139 powers. As a wise community would be more likely to instigate the measure, so an ignorant one is an effectual safeguard against it. As an exception to so vile a scheme, may be consider- ed the collegiate institution established at Mon- treal ; .the plan of which is both economical and meritorious. Students are admitted here on terms of perfect equality, as respects tuition, board, and the habits required to be worn. I could not learn, that any particular age, or attain- ments were requisite ; but the College terms are eight years. During this time, it is professed, to teach the French language, reading, writ- ing, arithmetic, geography, natural and moral philosophy, Latin, Greek, and the higher branches of mathematics, &c. &c. In the study room, each student has his place appropriated ; where he is compelled to be engaged, by an overseer, seven liours per day. There are regular times also for eating, recitation, exercise, and sleep. The management is vested in the hands of the Catholic «lergy, but we were credibly infomed that religion and politics were not particularly enjoined ; and there are instances of foreign youth having been educated at this institution. The Government of the Canadas consists of a Governor appointed by the crown j a Legislative 1 f : l' i, If ^ I 'I Jl z:^^mm.. •i:" 'il.Ir*'^:;-' • '•' --■,% •.! :r-iS:i.:.::i: . i::^^^*.: 143 e States, rected, in lip of Eu- rejudicial lid be na- d growth, attributa- ritish go- and pros- : time is a too much n, to say, ;s, by the It is not St grounds uits of his roof, and a right oi There is e are tres- of altering settlers, he rate oi n point ol ore advan- jduce, an(i ihe necessary articles of British manufacture im- ported, at the lowest rate and without duties ; habits of industry are inculcated, and measures taken to facilitate the plans of the industrious settler ; and where he does not succeed, as well as in the States, it must be attributed to the in- clemency of the climate, or a want of enterprise. But this is not all — The British government here, as in other colonies, may consider her success, as arising from the never-ceasing exertions, con- ferred on the cause of Religion. Here again has the missionary labour been blessed, and though ' not with such apparent success as in other places,* (for reasons before mentioned), yet it may be easi- ly traced, to the mildness of political measures, in not resenting the Papal ascendency. Religious and political jealousies are, by this means, kept out of view, as much as possible ; and the public mind freed from the bickerings that would other- wise arise. From these circumstances, therefore, it is obvious, why Religion has been left to work its own way, without the interference of govern- ment. * The writer refers for the elucidation of this fact, to the re- ports of the British and Foj-eign Bible, and Church Missionary Societies. H r.^JM. . ■■;•).. I r'f[ 'b: :*"f:j ;."■':" ■rtn^^y'-hfs '^'•• ^.■■-^. K^ •iJ'iA ^C ;'■■'» ,«' :. m 1 1 'rki : j- ■i f'u::-«';*_ ■>T.; ^ • '■"•: '-•V.^-'y'.i ■'" t / -ff- (■»•■> i.' m "i^ . .*A.yi^^jr ^1 J '■ -'-^g^g^ ;;: '-ha '■'- . • •■ • ,. '."" o-if^ • '•'' 1- •; ..'i '.: : ■■'s'ji 'i:i?nri'-v'-?. Hetros] ':riit:H4^'''i Grou ;,>;?f-5 ^fv —St ' :•' ! :, m '■r . *'-'i'^ CHAPTER XIII. Hetrospectlon of the Tour— View on leaving Montreal- Group of Passengers — La Prairie — Travellers' AIternatlv« 20th. Few excursions, during the summer season, are productive of more benefit or ration- al amusement, than the one which has been the subject of the within descriptions. All the varieties of travelling, peculiar to our western country, are experienced in a great degree ; — in- ternal improvements of every description are going on ; — and an interesting diversity of scenery is presented to view among the lesser lakes. When we add to these, the Falls of Niagara, that won- derful production of Nature, (to see which some have pronounced worthy of an Atlantic voyage,) together with the imposing greatness of her in- land seas, which the world cannot equal ; and the unencompassed extent of forest, on their dark lined shores ; the New World, in point of wild sublimity, (Switzerland excepted,) may be pro- nounced superior to Europe. To the refined N 146 i r JC. ' taste, however, ol the traveller, much is to be allowed ; for the varying pleasure, derived from that mixture of nature and art, pictured in no country on earth, save in the Alpine region. It has been before observed, that the autumn ought not to be selected as a proper season for descending the St. Lawrence ; on account of the fever, so prevalent along the shores of that river : particularly as it may be desirable, to some travellers, to extend their tour as far as Quebec. In which case, in order that full time may be given, it were better, even from the middle States, that four months were appropriated. The month of June being fixed for starting, a visit might be paid to Saratoga, so as to leave it by the first of July ; and performing the round of Ni- agara and the lakes, down to Montreal, by the first of August, the time might be so disposed of in Lower Canada, as to return in September. Many circumstances may conspire, to vary this excursion ; none more than season, should be ad- mitted. For which reasons, and from the limit of our time to one month^ the visit to Quebec was suspended, and a turn south given to our Canadian travels. On leaving Montreal for La Prairie there is presented a beautiful view of the city. The ■ ■ •i-'i-'iW'^"'--';- i'"-r^^'.*''Mfrfrih"fi¥^i*''.H'^-"'l'-/'lLf*--- I -l^ n : '^iQLi- vsk^^y^^-^k'^^ .'j^. >v^r-^.^\i^^ 147 banks are considerably elevated above the St. Lawrence, and a small rise immediately com- mencing, affords a prospect over the greater part of the island. Extending in the back ground the mountain rears its double head, in sullen ma- jesty, to bound the vision. The landscape, gradu- ally rising behind the city and speckled with white villas, affords a relief, from the dark brow of the mountain, and glare of the shining roofs. Three silvery spires, peering above the houses, shed a lustre amid the beauteous scene ; mitigated by the dark shade of the Convent wall. The Prison, and Court-house stand conspicuous ; while the aspiring hern. In benignant pride, looks down from the monumental pillar. At a little distance below, the peaceful St. Helena, studded with forest trees, and interposing a soft aspect, from the half seen little mansions, rises into view, amid the ruff surface of the river. From the pleasing reverie produced by these prospects, my attention was diverted on behold- ing the motley group, of which the passengers on board the steam-boat were composed. Anglo- American, English, Irish, and Canadian French ; of whom the latter appeared to have the ascen- dency in point of numbers. These men were engaged in a kind of pantomimic representation, r ■* s*- tU^i^aL. 148 or good-humoured burlesque. When a low Frenchman is really disposed to be in a happy mood, there are few that can excel him. There is nothing like quarrel, among one of these fel- lows, when half-seas over ; or a disposition, if intoxicated, to allay his spleen (according to the custom of most other vulgar people) in an offen- sive volubility of language. In place of this, every effort at wit is attempted ; some ridiculous idea brought into view by a distorted gesticula- tion, significant shrugs of contentment or disap- probation, repartee, or low merriment, never fail to raise among the gaping crowd, an exhaust- less fund of glee. Every on«» RtareB at his neighbour, as if on the point of disclosing mat- ters of wonderful importance ; if he fail it is no odds, the joke has begun, and another will finish it. This is all done in the best humour, for not a man amongst them, but had as leave be laugh- ed at for a failure as a hit. In fact it is impossi- ble to tell with which he is most pleased, his own wit or that of his neighbour, unless it hap- pens singly ; and then, the one raising the laugh is sure to keep his own countenance unmoved. So unceasing are the modes of invention, and barbarous the effort, notwithstanding its success, as to create a supposition, that human beings mi ;n a low a happy 1. There these fel- losition, if ing to the I an offen- e of this, ridiculous gesticula- t or disap- nt, never ,n exhaust- ires at his 3sing mat- ail it is no will finish iir, for not be laugh- is impossi- eased, his ess it hap- the laugh unmoved. ition, and |ts success, lan beings 149 iiad been outlawed, and were among the list of performers ; or, that between apes and men, there existed a contest for pre-eminence. La Prairie^ distant nine miles from Montreal, is a neat French settlement, so called from the quantity of meadow in the circumjacent country. This place has a style of building or peculiar fashion, with respect to the elevation and porches at the doors ; though there is much of a sameness in all French towns. It is remarkable for the number of inns, and for the breweries, and bar- racks in its vicinity. Although fashion may be considered as uniform among the French, still every parish or seigniory has its distinguishing bawble ; if it be only in the colour of the sugar-loaf cap, or the blue, instead of the red sash. With a trifling exception the Canadian peasant may be supposed to retain an unsophisticated resemblance to the companions of Jacques Cartier ; the long greasy queue, moc- casons of undressed hide, a grey capote, wooden shoes, and a short pipe in his mouth, are most certain indications of the presence of a Bour- There was a sufficient number of the party who came over from Montreal, and were bound to take a passage in the Congress steam-boat, to N 2 i \ 1 } ! u.' ,^'..... J 150 II < ill I load two calhhcs. The distance to St. John'8 is eighteen miles, over an indifferent and very crooked road. It being nearly six o'clock before we started, considerable alarm was exc.ted as soon as it was dark, on account of the ditch ex- tending on each side of the road, as there appear- ed very little probability of going but a step or two, either to right or left, without being over- turned. The drivers declaring their utter inca- pacity to see the danger, there seemed to be a pretty general determination (and not without good reason) to stop at the first inn. Matters were accordingly thus arranged after some alter- cation at the half-way house, and the party alighted. It is one of the most unpleasant situations which a traveller can be placed in, to be under the necessity of alighting at an inn, where there is neither an expectation of company, rfor suita- ble provision for them when they arrive. This was unhappily our case, and so we put up with the alternative. Such perplexities are best re- lieved by the significant shrug of a Frenchman, or a " mais ce n'est pas toujours ainsi." It . is a great comfort to know that it might have been worse ; a plunge into the ditch, or a broken leg, -would have been no trifling consideration j and L''.\' .' Vi> 151 so that a sound skull be housed above ground, it is better than taking the chance of a tottering ealeche. If it were a connivance between drivers and innkeeper that we should, so also it was no less a matter of policy, on our part, to remain. By way of variety also, it will be well enough to mention, that our agreeable travelling circle fro: \ Niagara had parted from us at Montreal, and that the company with whuui we were now asso- ciated was but a bad exchange. Considerable bus- tle was excited on our arrival, and a requisition laid upon the spare beds and settees, which could be found ; this did not augur very favourably, but at length terminated to the general satisfaction. The landlord made no particular promises to any, but to do the best for all ; and so accepting the good man's offer of what the house afforded, we determined to make the best of our supper and lodgings. This is the fairest resolve possible, and does not often meet with a disappointment. Though ihe fare was none of the best, i*^ ' . \s prepared with that best of all ingredients, clean- liness, and the lea served up by a young -voman, who had the appearance of being h .th cook- maid and mistress, with a neatness and dexterity which quite surprised us. Being thus refreshed, "■V- .....,^. .jJ^.'/VK^'St:- / M. 152 \i my two companions and I made out to secure for our share a couple of beds, and then retired. 21st. We were awakened early so as to be in time to breakfast at ^S^t. John's^ and sail at eight o'clock in th'" morning in the Congress. This place has been always favourable for bu- siness : situated at the outlet of Lake Champlain, it was considered an important post during the French and Revolutionary wars. In the latter, after a gallant defence, it was taken by general Montgomery, as was also Chambly. It contains, in a range along the bank, about one hundred houses, by no means of an inviting appearance. i \ „L..-*i. '.'-t^TSij&^'^-i'. 'ill CHAPTER XIV. l.ake Cbamplain— Isle aux Noix— Plattsburgh : Singular Adventure on Shore— Burlington — Sunset. The actual length of Lake Champlain does not exceed eighty miles, nor its greatest breadth fourteen. It forms part of the boundary line be- tween the states of New- York and Vermont, and is said to have been called after a French Gover- nor of the name of Champlain, who was drown- ed in It. Tiie snores ot this lake are classic ground to the American, as well as to every lover of liberty. A great portion of the lands at the north end are low and uncultivated. Isle aux NoiXf situated fourteen miles from St. John's, contains very strong fortifications, military and naval store-houses. At this place the British vessels were constructed which plied on the waters of Champlain. Many are now drawn up, and put under cover in dock, and others remain unfinish- ed, which were commenced during the late war. The fort has a very commanding situation on the lake, although standing on low ground. It ippeared to be in a good state of repair. There \ I SI 1 .■Hit^^ftl' .. :»,. 154 'J ii .. A is also here a barracks, capable of garrisoning a large number of soldiers. On entering the territory of the United States the shores assume a more improvable and salu- brious appearance. The neat village o/ Platts- biirgh is situated on the west side of the lake, at the mouth of the river Saranac. It contains a Court-house, Prison, and about one hundred dwellings. This place has acquired deserved ce- lebrity, by reason of the brilliant victory of Com- modore Macdonough, and General Macomb, over the British army and flotilla, under the command of Sir George Prevost, and Captain Downie. It might reasonably be supposed, that the event- ful history of America, and especially all the particulars of the late war, were treasured up in the mind of every citizen, and ready to be com- municated to each inquiring stranger ; under this impression, travellers are not unfrequently in an error on arriving near some town, celebrated in the annals of warfare ; by supposing that they will find the spot pointed out, or, as in the old countries, a Cicerone personated by some idle vil- lager, in waiting at least, if not offering his ser- vices. Herein lies the mistake, for no such person is to be met with, even among the lower orders ; and as to everv active citizen, he has ¥ # !b2iiM^v.«,.<...»'i&l4. 155 enough other employment. I do not pi etend to say, that this arises from any deficiency of na- tional pride, or from the want of a due know- ledge of the historical fact ; but rather an unas- suming spirit, which retires from a repetition of what fame has already trumpeted. The truth is, that the American considers the more useful occupation of his trade, or putting his hand to the plough, a sufficient apology for not being able to comply with the expectation of the cu- rious stranger. , . I should not have been led into these reflec- tions, but from the circumstance of having pass- ed by, or occasionally visited, places where seve- ral important battles had been fought, during the last war. The remark will hold good, with re- spect to the Canadian, or American, in the case of ihe battles of Lxindij's Jmyic and * Chippexva. In fact, "you may be a long time on the frontiers, without hearing much of the circumstances either from one side or the other ; or knowing even the' site of these engagements, but for the tombs of the lamented and unfortunate heroes. In corroboration of my opinion, let me be per- mitted to mention one circumstance more. It serves to show how desirable it is, for the peace- able citizen to have every animosity, which >ii % M '\ / -....^«». <**w«s.(i^.,«iM '.''^^li^^-'. >'i"fr **,v*i.. .. 1iBI»»«W,. ■4rtk.«iA'' 156 1:8^!'':: ii a recurrence to the event might excite, buried in oblivion. On arriving at Plattsburgh it was intimated by our captain, that the steam-boat would remain an hour. Seven of our company, of whom I was one, made up our minds to visit the town, and go in search of the battle grounds. We proceeded along the margin of the little bay, and through part of this neatly situated place, on the declivity of a hill, when it was sug- gested that we ought to make some inquiries. Ac- cordingly accosting a townsman, we desired him to show us the battle grounds. He observed, " they are over there," but this reply not being satisfac- tory to some of our party, and the man moving on, was asked to be more particular. To which he answered, " That they" (the people of this place) " were not Jighting characters.*^ At which our party began a laugh ; this the man mistak- ing, as if personally intended, declared that we might see the battle ground without going any farther, for he would fight either one of us sing- ly. In this mood we left him, and changing the inquiry, to an honest farmer, on horseback ; ad- dressed him, by the milder salutation of, " my friend." " O !" said he, " we have forgotten all about such things now, and it is best not to bring up the subject ; but try to be neighbours ; — we are all peaceable on this side." From the dispo- -..,.. ii^ 15; te, buried gh it was team-boat company, ds to visit !e grounds. the little y situated it was sug- liries. Ac- lesired him •ved,"they ag satisfac- an moving To which ►pie of this At which an mistak- d that we going any of us sing' langing the eback ; ad- m of, " my argotten all lot to bring )Ours ; — we the dispo- sition of the man, it appeared that he spoke as he thought ; and wishing to turn the conversation, began to inquire, where we were from ?" Such parley not exactly corresponding to our wishes, we broke off from this sturdy son of Cincinnatus, and took the course, which to ourselves seemed most likely to lead to the grounds. — Wc had not time to reach, but saw, them at a distance. Not having perfectly satisfied our curiosity, and wish- ing to be more certain, on returning we met a party of young ladies ; and so believed ourselves now, under fairer prospects of success. One of our number politely accosted them with the same question, which had been put on the two former occasions. It was prefaced with an air of good humour, which told that the inquirer really felt a solicitude. The damsels with wist- ful tenderness, each caught a look from the other, till one more bold than the rest, came out with a — " Sir! you are not in the road, Sir !" Not in the road to the battle grounds 7 repeated our spokesman. " No Sir, — indeed you are not, Sir." — Finding ourselves completely foiled a third time, and the laugh turning upon us, he continu- ed pointing towards the direction in which we had been walking ; " is this then, or that, the right Way ?" To which they said, " That is best known o .^» i'»r -. J^-d^aa*; .' «'- CHAPTER XV. Connexion of Thought — America — Mountainous Countries-* Observations on Vermont — Civil Liberty — Crown Point and Ticonderoga. It is difficult very often to discover the trace of any connexion in a succession of our own ideas. The mind, in some of her wildest mo- ments, is apt to make somewhat unconnected, though perhaps, important reflections ; and it is better at such times not to check the current, but indulge the fancy. I have often been amused in thus tracing a distant connexion in the chain of thoughts. In this way many precepts in life are often determined, or useful maxims drawn. In the present instance, it is not at all presumed that any event of this nature will be derived ; but merely to set down as they have occurred, the following ideas applicable to the American his- tory. ' ^ An observation has been generally made, that the inhabitants of hilly countries are more heal- thy and robust, than those of any other. The 3turdy Swiss, Welshman, and aspiring Scot, fur- o 2 . jffiBt- •^^^:p:'M ^ i 162 nish examples of this nature. It would be well for these to join in a body, when settling down in the United States, in some spot of country nearly assimilating to their own. The mountainous dis- tricts in America are as yet but little peopled ; of which Vermont, Pennsylvania, and others, may be mentioned : it being the natural course of settlers to leave these till the last, passing on to remoter regions in the western country. The ex- treme has been carried quite too far, and is the occasion, very often, why better lands, and the more intermediate, have been passed over. If this were attended to more, in place of roaming through the interior of the continent, the health of emigrants would be much promoted. A hardy and industrious race, descended from a Tell, a Wallace, or a Cadwaladyr, knotty as the Alpine pine, and unfurling their banners from the heights, would flourish in the heart of freedom. Her arm extends throughout the land, from Maine to Flo- rida, to invite the new citizen, and inspire the feeling of brotherhood. The name of Vermont is derived from a range of mountains, intersecting the country from north to south, covered with evergreen forests. This ridge spreads over a considerable portion of the width of the state, rising to the height of three V f .■aih^^ ^J:iSi-- 163 or four thousand feet, and scooped into glens and vallej's, copiously supplied with streams of water. The largest quantity of water flows westwardly into Lake Champlain, whose outlet is to the north ; and the rest takes a southwardly course through Connecticut and North rivers ; so that every fa- cility of water carriage is afforded. The tops of the mountains produce inexhaustable stores of spruce, pine, cedar, and other evergreens ; and the valleys are covered with oak, elm, ash, beech, and maple. These, however, arc much cleared, and afford good pasture and arable lands ; which, in some places, are very luxuriant. The inhabit- ants are mostly agriculturists, being scattered throughout the state in small villages ; and the largest town does not exceed three thousand souls. Vermont, the younger sister in the revolution- ary struggle, was not admitted into the rank of a state, till after the cessation of hostilities. An opposition had been set up, during her colonial existence, in consequence of the claim of lands, under contradictory acts of Great Britain, by the two adjoining provinces of New-Hampshire and New-York. At the breaking out of war between England and America, all minor considerations were merged in the general good. The interest, which before had compelled an assertion of the .W % r j'4 I ,vi v.j..-„ --.J :^U>.'. "_CSm^Ow«'' r i..f I ■■.i 164 individual right, became for a time lost sight of, notwithstanding the same important principles were involved, as between Great Britain and her colonies ; namely, the right of a people to self-go- vernme?it. Vermont had first rallied under the wings of freedom ; and it was not till after the Declaration of Independence, that she claimed of Congress, the right of being admitted amongst the thirteen confederated states. i'lii " O Liberty, llioii goddess heavenly bright, rrofuse of bliss, and jircgnant with delight ! Eternal pleasures in thy presence reign, And smiling plenty leads thy wanton train ; Eas'd of her load, subjection grows nnore light, And poverty looks cheerful in thy sight ; Thou mak'st the gloomy face of Nature gay, Giv'st beauty to the Sun, and pleasure to the day." • , AUOISON*. / Civil Ubertij is a subject of so much importance to the habits and comfort of mankind, as well as so interesting to those who have entered into the study of it, as to have employed the pens of many eminent writers. The experience of nations has an evident tendency, among various schemes, to discover a perfect criterion for this science ; but, perhaps, the world itself is too young to deter- 165 mine any, except general truths in politics ; and these arc not likely to remain so permanently. The art of reasoning by comparison only, is more or less defective on this subject, and the nume- rous writers unsatisfactory and inconclusive. The degrees of virtue and vice, assumed under diflerent forms of government, arc not deduciblc from any positive standard, because it is not known, to what conformation the human charac- ter is most adapted. Different opinions and cus- toms depend, more or less, upon local circum- stances and education ; and as no human perform- ance is without a blemish, so there is no govern- ment, however well founded in the first instance, which is not liable to he even uaily tarnished by corruption. It was the opinion of Longinus and many of the ancients, th;\t the arts and sciences flourish- ed only in free governments. Of this, proofs are very abundant, in tracing the history of the Persians and Egyptians ; who, in proportion to the increas'- of luxury and opulence, lost gradu- ally the improvements before attained, and which finally were transferred to Greece ; and she, in her turn, continued to flourish, only as long as her primeval habits remained. Rome also be- came the seat of arts and learning afterwards, 1. i -»ai^^. 166 and at a time, when she may be said to have been more free, probably, than any nation in the world. The aggrandizement of her wealth and power, took place during a continuance of the republic. The acme of her greatness was the favourable moment for ambition, and no sooner was it at- tained, than the balance preponderated. That tide of prosperity which favoured her industri- ous citizens, amid continual wars and even po- verty, ceased to flow, with the loss of liberty ; and hence was produced a decay of learning and ages of barbarism throughout Europe. The same issue will also be found applicable with regard to commerce, which has never flou- rished so well as in free governments : exam- ples of which may be traced in its progress through the once thriving and populous cities of Athens, Carthage, or Venice ; each of which has in turn enjoyed a free commerce under the aus- pices of government ; and at the present day may- be mentioned London, Hamburgh, Antwerp, and Genoa. The same may be said concerning the attain- ment of liberty, that we have seen applicable to ihe rise and progress of arts, learning, and com- merce. Rarely has any country been known to light with determination for liberty, without final '.-'4%l'> -ii'.' ■ jL^i^2^. ■'Mii^- ::)aimr "■ iifJWffiu^, M have been the world, ad power, e republic, favourable was it at- :ed. That ;r industri- i even po- iberty ; and ng and ages never flou- nts : exam- ts progress us cities of f which has er the aus- |ent day may ntwerp, and 167 success. The rig'ht of self-government seems a principle implanted in the very constitution of man, by the hand of nature herself. It were needless to recur for proofs of this assertion to the history of ancient, as well as modern times. Almost every nation has had her rallying point, her Thermopylx of liberty. The name of Tell will ever remain dear to the remembrance of the Swiss, as that of Washing'to?i^ to the American, Already have the Patriots of our sister continent made rapid strides, towards obtaining that liberty which belongs to every nation, and which com- prises the light of self-governmeiit. Soon will they rise to hail the sun of liberty, and, emanci- pated from the Spanish yoke, will be registered on the list of free nations, to inherit the birth-' right of freedom^ — in government, — in laws, — and in religion. Croxvn Point and Tico)ideroga^ are situated near the southern part of Lake Champlain, on its banks. The history of these places involves many interesting particulars relative to the French and Revolutionary wars, to which it may not be amiss to recur. There have been some expenditures applied to the improvement of their fortifications, since those periods j but the ruinp only are n-ow visible. „;ii>*k.. * i! i:;««B»£^. 168 f \' . i! 't .', / Ticonderoga was by nature advantageously si- tuated for a fort ; being defended by rocks and wa- ter on three sides, and on half of the fourth by a swamp. Its name in the Indian language signifies Noiay^ and it was called by the French Corillor. A short history of this fortress is quoted from the Fashionable Tour. " The point projects between the Lake on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, and the creek on the other, which unites the waters of Lake George and Champlain, and forms its southern boundary. On the opposite side of the Lake, in a south east direction, stands Mount Indepen- dence. Mount Defiance is situated across the creek a little south of the Fort, This height was occupied by the artillery of General Burgoyne in 1777, when the Americans were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. Thi fortress of Ti- conderoga was first constructed by the French in 1756. In 1758 it was attacked by General Aber- crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2000 men. On the approach of General Amherst, in 1759, it was quietly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. It continued in the pos- session of the British until the year 1775, when it was t:iken by surprise by Col. Allen. On evacuating the Fort in 1777, General St. Clair -*Jtfi-^"4 'S,.- 16f reously si- ks and wa- fourth by i language the French fortress is ' The point side, which id the creek ;rs of Lake Lts southern the Lake, in nt Indepen- [ across the This height •al Burgoyne e compelled tress of Ti- le French in meral Aber- oss of 2000 mherst, in |e French, as in the pos- |l 775, v/hen Allen. On 1 St. Clair ordered a detachment to accompany the Ameri- can stores and baggage to Skeensborough, where they were pursued by General Burgoyne, and from thence to Fort Ann. At the latter place a smart skirmish ensued between the two parties, in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The main army retired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardton, where a party, consisting of about 1000 men, under Col. Warner, were over- taken by the British advanced guard, and after a severe action, abandoned the field to superior numbers. From thence they joined General Schuyler at Fort Edward, on the 12th July, 1777." *...j.ii.. *4J^x n ■fc \ik ii yf- !•■ # 1^ CHAPTER XVI. Approach to Whitehall — Scenery and Associations — Ameri- can Inrts — Habit of Drinking — Lansinburgh— Waterford — Cohoez Falls — Troy — Albany. 2272^. Lake Champlain may be properly said to terminate at Mount Independence, from whence to Whitehall, a distance of about thirty miles, it assumes the appearance of a river. On rising early this morning, the boat was making rapid head- way through a narrow part; and the water run- ning fast, was subjected to occasional eddies. Its beautiful green hue, from the shade of trees lining the shore, had an interesting appearance ; and the whole scenery is highiv romantic. The closeness of the banl.s, and sudden turnings, at first excit- ed some apprehensions, which were soon remov- ed by the skilfulnesr. of our pilot, and perfect management of the steam-boat. Ascending higher, the shore becomes more rocky and bold as we approached Whitehall, where we arrived at 6 a. m. It is a thriving village, rendered important on /A, t viH<*' 172 ( » I. '< \ account of the trade of the lake, which it com- mands as far as St. John's. Vessels of eighty tons burthen approach to Whitehall with facility. Considerable advantages will also be added, by a communication to be established from this place to Albany, when the northern canal is finished. There are about sixty houses and stores, and five hundred inhabitants. Stages run every day in the week, by different routes, to Albany. The country near Whitehall is very hilly and picturesque. The valley is closed in by high bar- riers, so that there is scarcely room left for the site of the village, and the stream called Wood Creek, which rushes into the lake over a small descent. The bank to the left, as you advance, rises almost perpendicularly for several hundred feet, in regular strata of grey limestone ; which requires a second glance, to convince that it is not a wall of masonic construction, erected at the water's edge. The same character marks also the opposite bank, and the tops of each are crown- ed with the dark cedar and pine. Detached blocks of granite are thickly strewea throughout the valley, and among the houses of the village. Finding the best road to Albany was by way of Salem, after breakfast a party of nine engaged a stage for the whole distance, at the rate of foiiv i : ■t^J vX. AU ■„f h it com- of eighty th facility, dded, by a this place s finished. ;s, and five jry day in y hilly and ly high bar- left for the lUed Wood rcr a small lU advance, ral hundred one ; which ;hat it is not cted at the marks also are crown- Detwiched throughout he village. ,vas by \va\ |ine engaged ate of foiu 173 dollars each. This formed an agreeable associa- tion, and is something similar to what in many countries is called travelling post. For such as want to see people as well as things, and who lilce the interchange of little civilities with strangers, the advantages of this plan are evident ; the bet- ter half of the pleasure, is often derived from being seated along side of agreeable and intelli- gent companions. The common incidents of life may be diversi- fied with so much pleasantry and intelligence, that an additional interest arises from the narra- tion of a stranger. It occurs very often that this particular bent has been cultivated, and is then brought out, where accidental acquaintance has no other apparent recommendation. Nothing more conduces to this kind of excitement, than the change of scenery experienced in riding. Our party consisted of a young Irishman, and York- shireman, two Philadelphians, and four New- Yorkers, besides myself. Though they might differ in other respects, there was this hnppy coin- cidence among them all, a disposition to please. The young Irishman was as remarkable for his repartee and flow of wit, as the Yorkshireman for his conundrums and drollery. The trial for pre-eminence was ably contested, and ii may p 2 '^1 il '"^b ) is/.'; h \\ k U t ■ 'i 1 i . . \ I ] It 1 ■{ :• f..^ Il:| 1/4 be fairly said that there was no want of pleasan- try or amusement. The romantic appearances, with which the first part of our ride commenced, diminished as we proceeded out of the valley ; there is not, how- ever, much cultivation visible, previously to arriv- ing at Granville. This town is pleasantly situat- ed within a few miles of the foot of the Green and Bald mountains, which are a continuation of the great chain. Soon after leaving this place, the aspect of the country improves very much, growing more open, and farm-houses are more plentiful ; the road also is fine, being a gravel- led turnpike, and considerable attention is paid to keeping it in good repair. We proceeded with- out much to remark, except general appearances, till we passed through Hebron, and arrived at Sa- lem to dinner. The latter place contains a capa- cious street, and is pleasantly situated in an un- dulating country, and yet sufficiently distant from the hilly. The extensive prospects which this road affords, added to the cheerfulness of our party, contributed ample sources of gratification, and were the means of rendering the ride more agreeable. Betwixt Cambridge and Pittstown, we crossed the Hoosac river, on a single arched wooden bridge, remarkable for being constructed 175 without band, bolt, or mortise ; and soon after- wards, the wild and mountainous heights of the great north-east chain of the West Point moun- tains began to make their appearance. The republican manners and habits of people in the United States, are the cause of both inn- keepers and servants assuming an air truly inde- pendent. In fact, though the term servant is very properly a distinction given to the rulers in a de- mocracy, I hardly think that the keeper of an inn or his attendants, would willingly submit to be called so, from a traveller on the public road. It does not appear, come in whatever manner he may at an inn, that the traveller excites much sen- sation. On alighting, he receives a nod of wel- come from an inmate of the house, and may then walk in. Every accommodation of the house is to be considered perfectly free, when called for ; and it were better, as there is no superabundance of menials to anticipate his wants, for them to be made known as soon as possible. There is usually a set time appropriated for meals, to which he is expected to accommodate himself, on becoming an inmate. The master of the house at such times, generally sits down at the head of the table, for the sake of helping and entertaining the company; while the waiters keep an eye upon the guests. ':.l\ '■'•s u.?,-_.t^ y >, 176 This mode ot (Ranging company i? very agreea- ble, unless It should chance to bC otherwise ; but then you are soon relieved, for no one continues longer than till his meal is finished : or, if you can learn to eat fast enough, it will be the better way of getting over the difficulty yourself. The servants throughout the country are both civil and obliging, when spoken to as equals ; but a step beyond this cannot be taken. Their services are to be considered as belonging, not to the travel- ler, but the innkeeper ; and through him, are to be paid for. This pride, which prevents a human being from selling, what more properly ought to be considered as a favour bestowed, is highly commendable, and consistent with the natural feelings. The extremes, in either case, are liable to corruption ; in the one, he will not often refuse a compensation offered, for which he has no right ; and in the other, will be led to expect one, v^here he has rendered no service. There is one cha- racter, which all who know how to appreciate, must rcvspect , that of a close intimacy between the dignity and peculiar duties of station. There is much to be said in favour of this mode of living in large cities, where a good or- dinary is daily provided, and the requisite atten- tion paid to the guests. One remarkable differ- 4 ^ "^-TUjUttl 177 ) ( ence, however, between the American and mo6t foreign inns, is, that board is charged in the former by the day or week, and in the others by the meal. The rule is the same, in both in- stances, with respect to a longer or shorter con- tinuance of the boarder at the house. It is cer- tainly proper for the innkeeper to be able to know the number of persona for whom he must neces- sarily provide, and of course whether they dine at home or not, it makes but little difference in the market bill : but, should the boarder even wish it, there is no opportunity allowed >f making a dif- ferent arrangement. To those who have lived in London or Paria, and have been used to dine when and where they pleased, the plan adopted in this country would not be thought very con- venient. Innkeepers in the villages are not unfrequently men of some influence ; and this arises often from their having once been field-officers of mi- litia, OK from their holding farms attached to their taverns. Thus the favours conferred may be considered as mutual ; and, at least in new coun- tries, preponderate on the side of the traveller, who is the more likely to receive better entertain- ment and general information. It will be found an incontrovertible rule also with respect to the . ^ -i. ,•> ^*.. . :\Jh ^. e> <>„ .VJ>^. ^^^^ ■^%, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V A <<, . ^. *y. M ■» V* ^ _ >*f/*?'j 'IfMRp.Mi-^W' 180 ■ K - * it : ' Ki by the use of distilled, instead of fermented liquors ; the latter of which is more used in the old countries ; where wine, cider, or beer is the general substitute for spirits : the eflfect on the constitution is certainly not of so deleterious a nature, nor the excess of drinking so common, on this account ; and it does not happen in man)- instances, that a person is as incapable of judg- ' ing the *' quantum sufficit^"* or likely to feel as insatiable a thirst, who confines himself in this particular. But the evil cannot be remedied, until a substitute can be suggested, for the inor- dinate use of distilled liquor, capable of prevent- ing the practice now existing among the settlers ; by means of which this commodity is always to be obtained cheaper, perhaps, than any other in our xvestern country. I do not think it probable that any thing less than a direct prohibition by law, would be likely to remove the evil. Im- ported spirits too, bear a trifling proportion to the price of labour, and the duties upon them are less than in other countries ; many of which might be mentioned, where it would not be fea- sible for a labouring man to become inebriated, as often as once a week ; for the aggregate amount of his earnings during that period. 2Zrd, At Lansinburgh, we arose at a ver> 181 fermented used in the or beer is e effect on deleterious common, en in many lie of judg- to feel as self in this ; remedied, or the inor- of prevent- the settlers ; IS always to ly other in it probable (hibition by evil. Im- oportion to in them are of which |not be fea- inebriated, ;ate amount at a verv early hour, and a ride on horseback being pro- posed, my two companions and I crossed the bridge over the Hudson to the town of Water- ford. This place has a prospect of deriving great advantages from the northern canal, which is intended to terminate here. At the distance of about a mile up the Mo- hawk river is the Cohoez Falls'. The waters, before uniting with those of the Hudson, preci- pitate themselves over a perpendicular pile of solid rocks : — down the banks rivulets are seen streaming. The descent of the water has been variously stated, but perhaps sixty feet is nearest the mark. Nothing in the surrounding scenery particularly arrests the attention, and thus the great breadth t? the Falls may be considered the true source of their grandeur. A constant spray rises, and fills the atmosphere around for some distance ; resembling in its descent again fine rain. Our time for dwelling on this delight- ful scene being but short, we quitted it with regret. On our return I could not help admir- ing the beauty of the views, diversified with hill and dale ; while the town of Waterford casts a charm over the alluvial plain, which is water- ed by the gently flowing streams. The two towns of Lansingburgh and Waterford tUf^-^^- Il \': r ■■ 182 are pleasantly situated on the opposite sides of the Hudson at its junction with the Mohawk liver. They both enjoy the advantages of sloop navigation ; but the former seems to be conced- ing the palm, though at present possessing about double the number of inhabitants. The houses of Lansingburgh are mostly ranged on a single street running parallel with the river, and do not indicate a high state of prosperity. Immediately after breakfast, we departed again in the stage for Albany. At the distance of three miles is the intervening citi/ of Troy. It is pleasantly situated on the river, and bounded eastward by a range of hills, which rise abruptly out of an alluvial plain. The streets run north and south, and at right angles, except at the north end of the city, where they converge. The buildings are chiefly of frame, and ♦shaded by trees on each side of the streets, which are gravelled instead of paved. There is established here a Female Seminary and Lyceum, besides three places of pul)lic worship, a court-house and a gaol. The population is about seven thousand. We crossed the river here (in a boat) to IVa- terjieet, an eld settlement (six miles from Alba- ny) remarkable for an Arsenal. The ground ;/ , '»■ * ■*j^j>i.i-i .-,ii^L»s'-.rf; 183 ^ I sides oi' Mohawk s of sloop be conced- sing about 'he houses n a single er, and do • arted again distance of f Troy. It »d bounded ise abruptly run north cept at the converge, ind ♦shaded which are established am, besides t-house and n thousand. )at) to Wa- from Alba- 'he ground between this and Albany is tolerably good, and well cuhivated, and the riue a {.leasant one. The city of Albany (one hundred and sixty miles up the Hudson) still holds the title of capi- tal of the state, though so far exceeded in point of commerce and population, by the city of New- York. Thither, however, is not the direc- tion for the seat of government to travel ; but after the example of the States, it will probably proceed westwardly, and obtain a central loca- tion. There is an apparent anticipation of her falling honours manifested, in the general appear- ance of the town. Most of the streets are irre- gular, as well as narrow ; and although its situa- tion is such as to render cleanliness easily at- tainable, it does not appear that this is much at- tended to. The antique shape of the private dwellings is very remarkable, and gives the Euro- pean traveller an idea of the original settlers, from a resemblance to those in some of the towns in Holland. The Capitol is situated on an eleva- tion of one hundred and thirty feet above the level of the river, at the top of State-street, and contains the legislative halls and other public apartments. The present population amounts to twelve thousand j and there is a degree of industry and commerce sufficient to indicate .^..••«»,«..,..-.^..~..^,.,,,^.vi. — ,^ If*.: u^,^,.,,^,^^^. ,|„„ mifmffiyr ^g,,^^^^, nrr ^- - ■<* * — '■ ■ \ .-V i''l ' \f:. 184 its trade. In consequence of the great advan- tages derived from water communication, it seems always to have been a place for domestic and foreign deposits, as well as a general resort for travellers. From hence conveyances may be obtained for Saratoga, Montreal, Boston, Nia- gara, &c. l|^^'^ ;T ;at advan- cation, it • domestic eral resort :es may be Eton, Nia- CHAPTER XVII. Retrospect — The Springs— Etiquette — Introductions — So- ciety of Ladies — Fashionable Circles — Company— Good Breeding. It is a very probable presumption that the reader may inquire, why did not the present Tourist, on his way to or from Albany, pay a visit to Ballston and Saratoga? For this devia- tion a very obvious reason may be assigned : that, " different circumstances alter cases." For the information of those who may wish to make this a fashionable route, it will not be amiss to sub- join a few remarks, concerning the prevairvr; manners and customs of these places. In doin^j which, the writer cannot pass the subject unno- ticed, as presented to his mind from a retrospec- tive glance at some of the scenes, which formerly presented themselves, during a short residence at these fashionable places of resort. A short continuance at the Springs is sufficient to convince a visiter of the healthfulness of the 0.2 i % A\ j.^r^i.i-JTl''... ..ate; .i.*i-..«,^ \ 186 ) situation, and delightful summer temperature. That happy mixture of heat and cold is there ex- perienced, which is so grateful to the constitution during the excessively warm season, and pro- duces an effect quite the reverse of relaxation. The system often requires some change of this kind, to which Ballston and Saratoga conspire in a considerable degree, and are so justly celebrat- ed. They may be considered as the desideratum^ or suitable gradation of the American clinate, and they will, no doubt, continue to be a summer resort on this account. The fashionable hotels at present are the Con- gress-Hall and Pavilion at the one place, and Sans Souci at the other ; and dressing is an im- portant engagement at both. Three times a day it is usual to attend to this etiquette, and not to change, so often, would be considered quite un- becoming. At breakfast, the promenade dress or dishabille is worn ; at dinner, a greater display and indulgence of Amcy is expected ; and in the evening, a full dress for the ball. After meals, introduce the ladies to the drawing-room ; — assist them gracefully through the sideling crowd ; — carry the playful fan ; — and make use of all the eloquence, which good sense and civility are capable of suggesting, for their entertainment. f0' ;mperature. is there ex- constitution 1, and pro- • relaxation, ange of this I conspire in itly celebrat- dcsideratum, can clinate, be a summer are the Con- e place, and ing is an im- ; times a day e, and not to red quite un- nade dress or •eater display 1 ; and in the After meals, com ; — assist ng crowd ;— use of all the civility are ntertaiiiment. 187 Those who \Vould become candidates in the heau monde^ must at least endeavour to deserve, before they can merit the esteem of the Fair. It requires a very particular acquaintance with the person called upon for an introduction to an- other, especially to a Lady. This seems to be an established rule or etiquette, in modern manners ; so much so, that its observance is indispensable ; and the person not so introduced, that the one bringing him forward, can satisfactorily explain his standing, will appear under some embarrass- ments before the company. A stranger will al- ways excite inquisitiveness, and must eventually be esteemed, in the same point of view, as his friend. There are occurrences amongst men, where the form of introduction may be dispensed with ; as in travelling, for instance, it would be irksome, if not impracticable; but an ingenuous complaisance is then useful to both parties, mu- tual information and assistance only being re- quired : but, on the contrary, we should be very little inclined to esteem a female, whose too con- ciliatory manners had secured our acquaintance, without the etiquette of an introduction ; and who, we could not i)ut suppose, might in the same way have become acquainted with any one t)i / :t'-i !%jt 188 else ; and thus wc would, perhaps, be inclined to consider as company too easily attainable. One particular advantage in the society of vir- tuous females is, that it has an influence over a man's whole conduct ; to make him particular, as to his dress,— as to the company he keeps, — as to drinking, smoking, or any kind of dissipation. Any one will eventually discontinue thesCy as he continues to keep the company of ladies ; they are the constant preservatives of morality, and capa- citate us for more stedfastly enduring the active walks of life. The greatest observance of politeness must be kept up in the fashionable circles. The ladies seem to require every attention and complaisance, to secure their regard. If their views and wishes can be anticipated by some conciliatory aid, it will be well for the beau to do so. It were better to admire the reigning beauties, for these, as well as dress, go by fashion ; and one would be con- sidered outre and void of taste, not to do as others do. The person best qualified to maintain a standing among the higher circles, must be one who is possessed of very prominent qualifications ; such as arc derived from either fame, appearance, or fortune ; whichever is most prevalent, will ex- alt the highest. Indeed there is no way of main- ::i!i?^i.-v'.- '.. ■y»^:-'-«5!i»!-,:fvni.i,i'_ 189 wining the esteem of fashionables, without hav- ing some share of what the world admires ; and it is equally true and lamentable, that when this is lost, we are often suffered to fall by our best es- teemed friends. " L'homme sc fait connoltre par la compagnie qu'il frequente," is a maxim admitted by all ; and that we should be attentive to this particular in early life, is of the utmost importance ; as it tends to regulate the future path or line of demarcation, for us to follow. To cultivate and be seen in the company of respectable people, will establish a standing ; whereas the contrary will not fail to lessen us in public estimation. The same remark is applicable to men of science, who resort to one another's company for the purpose of improve- ment i an uninformed man will find no pleasure in being among such j as also, one whose ideas never soared above the pursuit of riches or business ; nor would he be admitted as an associate : they would be no company the one for the other. I do not mean to imply by the above, that mode of courting the company of great people, so fre- quently observable in little minds ; it never ap- pears without creating contempt. I admit that to such, good humour and the height of complai- sance is due ; but without seeming to seek for op- i itV 'ifk- ^*« *«Y -^ -^ 190 m I »■> portunity. If the worthy and sensible, arc not distinguished from the arrogant, there will even then be a mortification, proceeding from a cool reception ; and not unfrequently the result will be, retiring with a bad grace. The best company which we can keep, is such as is of known respectability, of a standing in life nearly similar to our own, and the most commu- nicutive. The most lively, entertaining, and im- pressive information of the human character, is, perhaps, derived froir. social converse ; and in this respect therefore it will most likely be sought for on virtuous principles; and, at the same time, conferring freely, will meet with corresponding dispositions, and eventually prove a real source of blessing. An identity of manners and similar way of thinking is very essential to make our company agreeable. As on the one hand, too much reservedness and retiring modesty, effectually prevent all sociality or approach towards acquaintance ; so particular intimacies are formed, on the other hand, by agreeable manners, good education, and other qualifications; all of which conspire to render a man agreeable in company. When these concur there is frequently a dispensation of forms and reserve altogether, and respectful behaviour bc- .^^. » ..iik .- 'V "^ ■^^i.v-'" 191 le, arc not i will even from a cool suit will be, eep, is such nding in life Lost commu- ing, and im- character, is, 5 ; and in this )e sought for ; same time, orresponding a real source -s and similar to make our srvedness and t all sociality so particular her hand, by )n, and other re to render a , these concur of forms and behaviour be- comes the criterion whereby the gentleman is dis- tinguished. As in the one conferring, so in the receiver, is the pleasure excited, and is insepara- bly attached to both. Where does civility, oblij^- ingness, or candour display itself, without meet- ing with a favourable reception ? In being uni- versally approved of, they do more than any other recommendation in prepossessing company, and insuring good treatment. The first impressions formed of any one are not easily removed. Circumspection of conduct, therefore, is requisite at all times ; as we know not who is the observer. We may readily imagine why general deportment is of so much consc- quenc ; as it bespeaks good qualifications, and rivets the judgments of others, by establishing a basis, that does not often change; and conse- quently, as it becomes habitual, is more easily maintained. Good-breeding, therefore, is an in- dispensable requisite of character; nothing, more than this, produces the good will of associates, or renders a person more agreeable in company. It ought never to be neglected, being of such inestimable importance. A well-bred person, though poor, will always secure attention and in- terest, if he does not take the ascendency ; at any rate, he will command respect. Good-breeding ■' 1 ' V 'I if* r- ' 192 i\ designates the gentleman; so much so, that he who is not possessed of it, is sure to be esteemed in a contrary point of view; notwithstanding other qualifications. The rule is universal, and acts in all countries as a " perpetual letter of re- commejidationy It consists in such an unassuming and candid expression of countenance, such social disposition and generosity of Jcportiuent, as will at any time sacrifice to the conripany pn^sent, a certain por- tion of individual convenience. No loss is sus- tained ultimately in so doing, by reason of the in- crease of pleasure derived from seeing others gratified. This conduct alone produces a happy sensation ; but then another arises, which is that of receiving a like return of favours. They who accept, must at any rate sustain the weight of an obligation, which costs but little to the giver. In company it is expected that we should contri- bute to the entertainment of those around us ; for the purpose of being sociable we assemble, and it were better never appear, than appear ab- sent. A cheerful countenance and deportment there- fore is commendable for every person to sustain, who wishes to be respected, and to pass through the world without censure. It produces a useful :*^. ^*'j 193 0, that he e esteemed thstanding versal, and ftter of re- Mid candid disposition at any time :ertain por- , loss is sus- n of the in- ;eing others ices a happy irhich is that They who V eight of an 3 the giver, ould contri- around us ; /e assemble, n appear ab- confidence in the individual who possesses it, and at the same time renders him less liable to imposition. A person of this pleasing cast is so characterized, that I may almost say, he is regarded without the semblance of reproach, and often glides down the current of life calm and unmolested ; while he escapes the dark storms of folly and wickedness, which seem to gather, only to break at a distance. His happiness is en- hanced by raising the cheerfuj- smile, in those around him ; by which his own good qualities are dilated : and nothing can be more consoling than the reciprocal sensation derived from com- municating delight. ment there- n to sustain, )ass through aces a useful ■ K ■4 CHAPTER XVIII. Passage from Albany to New-York : Portrait Painter : Mt jor : Lieutenant: Minister: "Visitations of Providence. ^ t Once more I found myself on board the steam-boat bound from Albany to New-York, among a crowd of passengers. The buzzing noise and bustle of such an assemblage does not comport with the disposition, or way of thinking, which many persons would wish to indulge in ; as it is no easy matter, on such occasions, to ob- tain that composure, which often proceeds from retirement: the best mode, therefore, of passing time, is, perhaps, to participate in the occurring amusements ; one may enjoy in this way, at least, a passive pleasure by contributing to that of others. The task is not so difficult as might be imagin- ed ; consisting not so much in taking an active part, as in paying attention, to what is going on. It will soon be perceived that some few Choice Spirits^ are destined to be contributors, to the general entertainment. ) "1 f ■-■* / If i ,1,,-, ' ».«sr- 199 porate like smoke ; the other, like a town-crier, ringing it about, or even resorting to the gro- veling expedient of being his own trumpeter. Taking the first opportunity in my power, I merely whispered who the Lieutenant was : the company were all surprised ; the secret soon passed round ; and almost immediately after- wards the story of the Maj^r came to a conclu- sion. Turning round I discovered in another part of the cabin a minister of the Gospel, who was en- gaged in writing. From the composure with which he was meditating on the subject, not- withstanding the various scenes around him which attracted attention, I could not help think- ing on the power of habit, that thus could enable him to confine his ideas. It appeared to be a sermon which engaged his attention, and he was so wholly engrossed with the subject, as not to take the least notice of any thing else which was passing. I began now to think seriously concerning the visitations of Providence. It is certainly a mat- ter of the highest importance to mankind, to know that those manifestations of divine good- ness, which are very often attended with afflic- tion, have an eventual tendency to produce a last- r 200 ■H !*.<. ' •/. Va. ing good. The happiness of mankind is brought about under the hands of Almighty Providence, by means imperceptible unto themselves, and in things which even appear to be hurtful. To draw the attention to this particular, is a judi- cious and highly important consideration ; inas> much as it resolves an important point, on which much of the tranquillity of this state of existence depends. All may be said to be, more or less, subject to these visitations, when least expected. The particular city which now appears to be in- fected with disease and sore calamity, has hither- to been favoured by a tide of prosperity. We did not receive an intimation of this circum- stance till our arrival at Montreal, where, upon perusing a newspaper, the alarming spread of the Yellow Fever in the city of New-York was but too apparent. Like most other incidents in this life, misfortune becomes familiar when repeat- ed ; and the evil day of consideration, which might afford a lesson of instruction, is too often put off: and on the other hand, considering our- selves secure, when unattacked by evils, we make no provision, till they present themselves upon the very threshold of our doors. We were now approaching the scene of alarm ; every enquiry which had for some days past 301 been made at different stopping places, on the road, confirmed the original reports. These were no longer to be considered as the idle winds to be rejected, but as the messengers announcing lamentable disease and misfortune. Perhaps they might be exaggerated ; for evil report flies with rapid wings, outstripping the good } this idea was only the indulgence of fancy ; too soon were we wofully convinced of the contrary. The steam-boat passed us from the afflicted city, and by a statement which was sent on board, it appeared that there was every ground for believ- ing that the fever was still growing worse ; that the infected distrirt had extended considerably ; that the people were leaving the city in every direction ; that all business was suspended, and banks removed. To us who had been travelling further than some of the other passengers, the alarm was greater ; especially of those persons who resided in New- York ; others who had left their families but a few days previous, and were now returning, were still conscious of the increas- ing danger, which the short interval had occa- sioned. A number of country merchants came on board at the diflerent places where the boat is accustomed to take up passengers, and who were hurrying down to New- York, in order to f fl ii' ^' \ h w-^ i.: ., A 209 make a speedy settlement of their business or to lay in a tempf^'rary supply of goods. The num- ber of passengers, on board of the Chancellor Livingston, was by this means augmented to a very unusual degree ; so that the spirit of enter- prise and anxiety were strongly depicted in each countenance. There is a natural disposition in man to be dissatisfied with his present condition. It arises from the prevalency of self-love, which often carries its influence so far as to create the wish, that we were not exposed to any evils at all. The question then arises, whether the generality of mankind, if permitted to choose a situation of life to place themselves in, would not endeavour to obtain one which was exempted from all man- ner of trouble and affliction : as if the real hap- piness of any individual were dependent, entire- ly, upon the enjoyment of a state of uninterrupt- ed repose ; or, that the calms of human life did not necessarily require to be ruffled, by the oc- currence of disagreeable vicissitudes. The truth is, that if we were not occasionally disturbed by the disquietudes of this world, we should not appreciate the happiness which Provi- dence has provided for us. It is by this means, that we are best made acquainted with the sources of a variety of blessings. That person who con- II ^Mj.. 303 less or to he num- hancellor \ted to a of enter- ;d in each lan to be It arises lich often the wish, rils at all. enerality of ituation of endeavour m all man- e real hap- ;nt, entire- ninterrupt- an life did by the oc- iccasionally 5 world, we ich Provi- his means, the sources n who con- tinually reposes )n the bosom of prosperity, is rendered incapable of exertion for his own par- ticular good, nor is he likely to produce any re* suit, which may tend to the benefit of others; it U adversity which calls forth the dormant facul- ties of the mind, by throwing open the door to our real condition. We thus experience the knowledge, as it were, of hidden treasures, which constant prosperity has concealed from the view, or rendered insipid. Were we never subjected to danger ourselves, we could not feel for the dan- gers to which others are exposed. If no misfor- tunes assailed us, how liable should we be to for- get the duties which we owe to God — to our neighbour — and to ourselves. As different shades in colours, enable us more duly to appreciate each beauty, so the diversified degrees of mis- fortune, tend to enhance the value of our bless- ings. Without sickness, we could not be so sen- sible of the comforts which are dependent upon a state of healthfulness ; or without toils and trou- ble, we could not enjoy an equal pleasure in the retirement of a tranquil moment. The cup of consolation is sweeter for being occasionally em bittered with trials and affliction. Even want it- self will rouse the mind into a more active, exer- tion, and call forth the native powers of genius. li 1 1 I *^u , Hf '•■'■*.-• 204 ¥ I '» H Is not the change from one to another, calculated to produce an enjoyment of each season? It is thus that the beauties of spring are rendered more- striking, when contrasted with the severity cf winter; seed-time and harvest return at their pro- per intervals, in beauteous order and succession; and thus become the means of contributing to our comforts. He, who has never felt the pangs of remorse, can never appreciate so highly, the peace of a good conscience. We see, therefore, that the greatest sources of our happiness often arise from a contrariety of events, and that the change from one extreme to the other, is produc- ed by a train of opposing circumstances. In this way it appears that evils (so termed) turn out to be benefits. By the dangers which we have been in the habit of experiencing, we learn prudence, and are enabled to compassionate and admonish others how to avoid them j by disease, we arc taught to enjoy the exquisite blessings of health ; by labour, is repose rendered more sweet ; and, in general, the more sensibly we are affected by grief and misfortune, the greater happiness arises, on being relieved from their burthen. On the contrary, disgust is found to succeed satiety, too frequently ; dissipation, luxury, and pride pursue their votaries amid the walks of prosperity, and ♦' iU> "^t >c II § •ZUo ', calculated json? It is idered more severity cf at their pro- succession ; tributing to elt the pangs highly, the ;e, therefore, ppiness often and that the ;r, is produc- ices. In this .) turn out to we have been ,rn prudence, md admonish sease, we are igs of health ; i sweet; and, re affected by ipiness arises, len. On the :d satiety, too i pride pursue isperity, and •' succession of sensual pleasures, have a certain tendency to destroy the stimulus to the nobler qualities of the soul. Foolish and unjust then are the desires of man: supposing that what we desire were effected, a result opposite to our wishes would be the means of more fully detecting our folly. We are apt to complain of tempests and lightning, and yet, by the instrumentality of these agents, tlie air is pu- rified and thereby rendered less liable to produce epidemics ; we view the conditions of others, and think that we have discovered something envia- ble and desirable; the lawyer beholds the inde- pendant ease of the farmer, and thinks him happy; whereas the farmer considers those only so, who live without manual labour : thus also, with re- spect to the peaceable tradesman and the soldier ; each, when oppressed by partial difficulties, would seem willing to exchange situations ; but reverse the picture, for a moment, and you will find them hesitating. "Nolint: atqui licet esse beatis." The fact is, that the views which we take at such times are not well founded, and arise from a want of due comparison ; though we would wish to be t s \l p . J,; . .^.,^^^j|ii,'^(*..i^«|«,-a*..' Tmm^ik.^»m*, 206 ' ■ hi happy, we do not always desire to submit to the method, by which this state is attainable. How then are we to consider these seeming misfortunes ? It is a subject of great consolation, to be thereby led to confide in the wisdom and goodness of God; by submitting cheerfully to the visitations of Providence, we have just reason for rejoicing, but none for repining. Acknow- ledge thy Maker, O man, when he permits thee to be visited by affliction; when the different dis- pensations of his goodness are manifested, either in the vicissitudes of joy or sorrow; trust in his mercy, to relieve thy cares; he will not suffer thy weak nature to be tempted, beyond that which it is able to bear. There is cause for hope and thankfulness, amid all these trials; and, therefore, we ought to bless the Author of every good. He is also the Arbiter of our lot, and knoweth best our necessities ; and when we are suffering chas- tisement, it is, perhaps, the best means of con- vincing us of his goodness; for, we have often seen the futility of our own desires, we have often Taeen convinced that those very things, which we most anxiously sought after, produced not, when they were obtained, the gratification that might have been expected; and where the contrary of our wishes hag been realized, wc have thereby •"^jPk 207 avoided a direful list of misfortunes: and we have, seen, by the constant changes around us in this world, how admirably adapted they are to point out the ways of Providence; and that, as these wonderful works are all evidently directed by the same unerring hand, so they may be considered as characteristic of the incidental vicissitudes, which have been appointed for our ^^ture to sus- tain. The more we are exercised by the varying scenes of this life, the more enabled we shall be to support them, and to know their salutary effects. Those supplies of strength which will be given unto us, will be constant occasion for blessing and praising him, from whom all joy and goodness proceed. Let us, therefore, submit with resigna- tion to all the dispensations, which his infallible direction may point out, with a firm assurance that every affliction in this life will be an eventual blessing. If so, by a reliance on him, we shall find means for surmounting difficulties, which were at first formidable, but now have become light; and which will tend, through divine grace, to increase our patience and faith : a delightful prospect, then encourages us to continue in sustain- ing burdens and griefs, under the manifold imper- fections of our nature, when we consider the pro- mises which are made unto us, by him for whose i.ii'ij ri ^p_ ►>ft.HiiiK«K,t«afc:«*::;'> 'mitn^u . -i." iiOtf sake there bus been an everlasting portion ap- pointed ; unto whom we are directed to look up for the manifestation of future glory; and in whom, we hope " that all thingfi work togethey for good to them that love God^ \ r-. ■, '' •• w'' 1 ,,_^I^^"St-, ■ CHAPTER XIX. Separation of Companions — Newark — Elizabeth Town — Casual Meeting — New-Brunswick — Divine Service — De- votion. 24M. My two compagnons de voyage here left me for their respective homes. In con- sequence of the prevailing fever in the city of New-York, I remained there only sufficient time to accomplish a little business; and then crossing over to Powles' Hook, took the mail for New- Brunswick, at 3 p. M. The pleasant town of Newark^ is situated nine miles from New- York. It contains two Churches, and a Bank ; besides a considerable number of elegant buildings, a public square, &c. There is great neatness of style displayed in the white houses, and pales in front; and the main street is very capacious. Elizabeth Town is next, distant six miles from Newark. In style of architecture, this town ex- cels the former, though not in size, or the num- s 2 ::^; ;-«6.i- •^. .^•'^• ^u n '' « 210 ber of inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are three stories high. The ride from New- York would have been rather solitary, but for the occasional interchange of passengers, at the intermediate towns. Were one to judge from what came into the stage, and their escort, it would be no improper conclusion, that these places were celebrated for belles ; neither deficient in the number, nor fairness of the sample. A crowd of these charming com- forters assembled at Newark, to express their last regrets, at parting* with two of their female friends. They stepped into the stage, with ap- parently a light heart, and sufficient courage, to prosecute a journey as far as New-Brunswick ; after having received the parting good wishes of friendship, recommending them to kind fortune, and every thing pleasant. I never felt more dis- posed for conversation, or regretted more keenly the want of an introduction. The fair games of fortune are not to be frowned at, thought I ; so these ladies will not be offended, at my finding a subject to talk about. Their look was pensive; I sought to make amends for the apparent embar- rassment, as well as I could, and had the pleasure of succeeding. The strain w& louched, and all difficulties, in the way of conversation, soon van- ' -'U„ . v^ ■ ' >^llr''»*^•"•'•w^ ostly built jries high, have been itercbange ns. Were ; stage, and conclusion, for belles ; fairness of ming com- :press tbeir tbeir female ;e, witb ap- courage, to Brunswick ; jd wishes of ind fortune, ;lt more dis- more keenly air games of jougbt I ; so my finding a IS pensive; I irent embar- the pleasure shed, and all m, soon van- 211 ished; 80 that the remaining part of our ride, as far as New-Brunswick, went off very agreeably. Sunday^ Aug. 25th. Having concluded to re- main here throughout the day, I took the first op- portunity, after breakfast, of calling on my friend Mr. C. There are in this place several good boarding houses, possessing every advantage of retirement, and good accommodations. In the vicinity of New-Brunswick, there are some plea- sant walks to an eminence behind the town, and along the banks of the Rariton. The situation of the city of New-Brunswick, is on the south side of the Rariton river^ seventeen miles from Elizabeth Town. The banks of this river are rather low; and the place itself, lying at the foot of a hill in the rear, is thereby render- ed somewhat unpleasant. This inconvenience is partly removed, in the upper parts of the town ; and by the main street running at right angles with the river, in a gradual rise. It contains se- veral places of public worship, a Bank, and many fine brick buildings, besides Queen's College, established, in 1770, by the Reformed Dutch Church, and at first designed for a Theological Seminary. The population does not exceed three thousand. The steam-boat line of conveyance from hence to New- York, affords a pleasant sail ; h 1 J I V ^ ji •n •i) '■"^ ""■■•■$.■ --■'ia^SiV. 212 W- '^i ' 1 n from the cheering prospect of cultivation along the banks of the Rariton, and a view of the little town of Perth Amboy, situated on the sea-coast. The service of the Episcopal Church was per- font>ed, both forenoon and afternoon, and ser- mons delivered by Mr. P. from Newark. The congregation is not very numerous, but the sing- ing was well attended to, and the responses made in an audible manner; which I am pleased to mention, particularly the latter, as this devotional part of church service, is not so generally observ- ed as it ought to be. It frequently happens in country churches, and where people are not par- ticularly attached to the Episcopal worship, that the effect thereby, in a great measure, is weaken- ed. It would be altogether inexcusable to judge those of other denominations, who occasionally may attend, and who are not conscious of the de- fect, arising from a want of participation in the Litany, and other excellent parts of the church service; but in those " tvho profess and call them- selves^^ churchmen, the neglect is quite unpar- donable. Improvement in singing, also, is very desirable; that the congregation may join in one voice, in sending forth their hymns of praise to Almighty God, according to this ancient custom, frequently alluded to by the royal Psalmist. ^ii:^^£i^^i^:.:^ # on along the of the little »e sea-coast, rch was per- on, and ser- iwark. The but the sing, ponses made n pleased to lis devotional irally observ- Y happens in : are not par- worship, that re, is weaken- sable to judge 3 occasionally ous of the de- ipation in the of the church and call them- quite unpar- , also, is very ly join in one s of praise to ncient custom, salmist. 213 lOevotion is a source of unceasing blessedness in the truly pious. It improves our corrupt ilature, by producing virtuous affections, and gradually preparing us for a future state of existence. The immediate act of devotion has A tendency to make us more conscious of the presence of God, than is experienced when en- gaged in any other manner. We feel more deep- ly the imjjressions of his bountiful goodness and are more ready to acknowledge it. By this means, we are inclined to consider devotion as a duty which we owe to God. And as we are to ** show forth his praise, not only with our lips, but in our lives," Christians are under obliga- tions to exhort and stir up one another to this holy purpose ; and by raising their songs of praise and thanksgiving, to celebrate the name of Jehovah. The divine presence dwelt formerly between the cherubim, in a tabernacle or temple made with hands, whither the Jews were commanded •♦to resort ; but being removed to the Christian (.hurch by the manifestation of Christ in the ilesh, a npw dispensation succeeded, and all na- tions were then to be partakers of the blessings of divine mercy ; by looking up unto him, as the author and finisher of their faith. Into thi-^ W Ji 11 m ■#-■' '■^' !-»;. •^tUUlKt "X- 214 it' ' church, which was established by Christ ott earth,- we are now all invited to come, and there to chant praises at the throne of grace. By of- fering up unto the great Head of the church, our songs of adoration, through the merits of Christ, we have the gracious promise of being acceptable and finally rewarded ; and the assur- ance also of being employed in some measure like those blessed spirits, who cease not to lift up their voices, day and night, to praise their God. The Psalms of David have always been con- sidered as having a tendency towards producing in the mind the spirit of piety and fervour, so essential in devotiond exercises. The Christian church therefore hab usually adopted them, in some form or other, as part of her holy exer- cises. So pure and fervent are the expressions of adoration which they contain, and so admira- bly adapted to the inward feelings, that it is hardly possible not to imbibe a portion of the spirit and zeal of the Psalmist. The heart in- deed may be accused of obduracy and want of feeling, almost, which could listen to these effu- sions with indifference. I cannot help being forcibly struck with the efficacy of the remark, as applicable to the act of public worship ; and Christ ott ;, and there ce. By of- the church, e merits of lise of being \ the assur- )me measure e not to lift ) praise their Q15 1 have been drawn into the subject mole fully, by reason of the services which have this day been performed. These ideas, as they have oc- curred upon the subject of devotion, it will per- haps not be deemed inexpedient to enlarge upon ; by considering the benefits and obligations arising. The benefits of devotion appear, in promoting a reverence for the infinite perfections of Deity : penetrated with the admiration of the exalted goodness and glory of God, when prostrate with- in his holy temple, the mind is filled with the greatness of the object with which it is engaged ; all worldly thoughts and occupations should be then suspended, as the important object lays claim to an undivided attention : the ideas are raised to the contemplation of him who ruleth above the starry firmament, and who alone is worthy to receive glory, honour, and praise ; from whose notice nothing escapes. Great is the Lord ! Sing a new song to our God, who dwells in light inaccessible ! Devotion is peculiarly adapted to excite these solemn impressions concerning that Being, before whom the universe is as nothing : it is when thus engaged that the infinity of his nature is presented to us i) n\ ft / 'i ..'■ i: -Vit -■'.-r» 210 ■ t i,l •' in a more forcible point of view. It is then thai we feel more deeply penetrated by a sense of his unbounded justice, benevolence, and mercy ; and hence our obligations to the divine law are mort" lirmly impressed. The mind as it were is more conscious of its own movements, and by a closer inspection scrutinizes itself. The precepts con- ferred have a more solid tendency, when every admonition to virtue is enforced by a sense of duty, and vice restrained by the most dreadful denunciations. A power and command are add- ed to every precept ; a fear of offending is com- bined with a love of God ; and thus is produced eventually an increase of piety and virtue ; no revolting principle arises in the mind when fully penetrated with the exalted excellences of Deity j now becoming more devoted, as it receives comfort, from an unusual degree of complacency, which the public ordinances of the church are so pecu- liarly fitted to produce. It cannot be imagined otherwise than that devotional exercises are capa- ble of affording any result, but an increase of piety and virtue ; when it is considered that the solemnity of the act has a natural tendency to influence the human mind : if the ordinary avo- cations of life be ^. .thdrawn from the view for a time, they are supplied by others of a nature in- ii\ > v.. '■■*A: is then thai sense of his mercy ; and aw are mort' ^erc is more d by a close I precepts con- when every y a sense of (lost dreadful \and are add- nding is corn- is is produced id virtue ; no nd when fully ices of Deity i ;eives comfort, acency, which ti are so pecu- t be imagined cises are capa- an increase of idered that the •al tendency to ordinary avo- the view for a of a nature in- 2ir tcrestinp; in the highest degree ; inasmuch as they concen the future welfare, by tending towards a stJite of communion in which the soul is exalted, from things temporal to things eternal ; and, if sin- cerely felt, the believer must ever go on increasing in spiritual knowledge, and be prepared for that change which is the lot of mortality. From the force of haljit also it appears that devotion has a tendency to produce a beneficial result. The Lord is gracious, and his arm is ever extended to the humble suppliant. Will hc not barken then to the petitions of a repentant sinner, when bending at the throne of mercy ? There is great assurance to be derived from the promises, that he will hear the importunate when they cry unto him. Let the sinner be persuaded that he will be strengthened, that he will find saving grace. By the power of devotion sin will be resisted, its dominion will gradually be diminished, and finally its access effectually guarded against. The throne of mercy is acces- sible to the prayers of the truly devout, and as there is every hope of improving daily, by a continuance of humble supplication, in the prin- ciples of piety ; so every additional return to the sanctuary will increase the desire, which proceeds from serving the Lord with gladness. 1^ '1* i t\ ! ,,.-- J u ■■■tfc>" I 'A -wrttej--. 218 The true spirit of devotion is love. It is the love of God shed abroad in the heart of man ; and the operation of this love divine, as if through the instrumentality of man, appears in th<* act of devotion : upon this principle there is there- fore a twofold reference ; the one in respect to the throne of grace, and the other to the indivi- dual offering the petition. In the very act of imploring mercy for our sins we are in com- munion with the spirit of truth. How unspeaka- ble then is the goodness of God, which appears in the manifestation of this divine blessing ! A sinner is permitted to importune at the door of divine mercy ; notwithstanding his sins are grie- vous, and his iniquities numerous, there is still a way left open, whereby he may be reclaimed, and obtain pardon j the fruits of divine mercy are revealed through the intervention of a Me- diator, and the Holy Spirit, with healing in his wings, flies to the benighted way-worn pilgrim; a gleam of light has flashed across the path, and he wakes from slumbering in a state of insecurity, into which a night of darkness had plunged him : his prayer then is, that his faith may be increased in future, he confesses and deplores his past of- fences with sincerity and fervour ; and, that the spirit of repentance may abide within him, •.»•-' 'r r'-M t •r{- r A> Cctei 219 It is the irt of man ; IS if through s in the act ere is there- i respect to the indivi- very act of are in com- ►w unspeaka- hich appears blessing ! A t the door of sins are grie- there is still )e reclaimed, iivine mercy ion of a Me- ealing in his orn pilgrim; the path, and of insecurity, plunged him : be increased s his past of- and, that the within him, ceases not to be the ardent desire of his heart. Thus by an intimate communion and worship, with him who is the fountain of all good, there cannot fail to be derived a portion of that abun- dance ; and the interceding penitent is touched with a love of infinite goodness and infinite per- fection. Who has ever tasted that his love is gracious, and will not aspire after a conformity to it ? Who will ever wish to wander from a union In which the soul is connected, from the adorable object, as well as origin of love ? The exercise of prayer, praise, and every act of adoration has a tendency to unite more firmly every active principle ; the chords of fellowship are drawn closer by the various operations of the mind, and an internal strength dispensed. This circum- stance is applicable throughout the various trans- actions of common life j the result then will be more easily perceptible, in a moral and religious point of view. Devotion, therefore, when consider- ed in relation to this particular, will be found every way conducive to increase the seeds of religion, and to strengthen the heart. An habitual inti- macy thus formed by repeated acts of devotion, and uniting by an indissoluble tie, will give a warmth and vitality of feeling, a flow of con- ception which can only be derived from this I i I4i /111 ■M^. 4 I ■; i . * 220 assimilating influence. The virtuous habit must thus continue to increase, till at length the cor- rupt nature of man is changed, and new strength contributed, whereby he is enabled efFectually to turn away the arrows of the adversary. The peace of the good man is thus secured, as the habit becomes a part of his very nature, by pro- ducing a disposition for piety and virtue. How wonderful is the change experienced! The real state of happiness which Christian de- votion imparts ! How long may all worldly plea- sures be sought after, before this happiness will be felt I How admirably, on the other hand, is it to be found in the exercises of devotion! I ap- peal to the pious worshipper of God! What sweet infusions of pleasure have been felt, when the soul has been devoutly engaged ? Does not the rapture of such a moment penetrate to the re- cesses of the heart, and strike a firm conviction of the divine power? Do not those delightful emotions, experienced by the truly pious, at the throne of grace, in contemplating the infinite wisdom, goodness, and love of God, convince them that these moments are brightened by a di- vine radiance ? Fervently, indeed, are those de- votional exercises felt, which proceed from a con- viction of Almighty presence, drawing as it wen^ ',' ,-/. ' ..»_i«Li- 221 labit must , the cor- jv strength effectually ,ary. The red, as the re, by pro- ue. :perienced ! iristian de- orldly plea- :)piness will r hand, is it ;ion! I ap- : od! What felt, when Does not te to the re- conviction delightful ious, at the the infinite id, convince ned by a di- e those de- from acon- ig as it weiT closer the chords of love, and approximating the soul to the divine nature. Exalted is the idea, that feeble man can be permitted thus to approach the throne of grace, with assurance of the favour of God, derived from appointed means ; and be filled with the enlightening consolation of divine love, which proceeds from the spirit of fervent devotion. In reciprocating the love, and experiencing the goodness of his heavenly father, the child of af- fliction is relieved, when bent at the foot of the throne of grace. The heavy burthen of his bodily sufferings is lightened; the stable promise of him that was judicially stricken for human transgres- sions, yields firmness to his drooping spirits, and consolation to 'lis aching heart. He who bade the sick arise, can as easily say " thy sins be for' given thee?'' Cheering, indeed, is the remem- brance of pardoned sin. Hope sheds a delight- ful pleasure to the soul, and points to that glory which is to be revealed. In the nearer approach towards a communion with the great One Cause^ must be perceivable, the progress of happiness, which proceeded from him alone. Ere first the sun was taught to shed his genial warmth, deep retired within his essence, the Almighty viewed the eternal forms of beings T 2 A i M 4 ./;, y . S 222 W' .'^i I I uncreated. He called the earth out of chaos, breathed inio man the breath of life, and to the organic form of every creature, proportioned a suitable degree of happiness. Man, more emi- nently endowed than the rest, approximates, in a greater degree, as was evidently intended, to the perfection and happiness of his Maker. Unceas- ing source of consolation! By the promotion of virtue and pious devotion, is this happiness in- creased. Habit produces the issue so desirable, and confirms the leading principle of our nature. Thus does devotion Increase our happiness, by entering into the heart. In this manner, an ex- ercise of the sweetest powers of the soul are call- ed forth ; and we are led with one mind to glorify the Author. Anticipation, also, is another source by which the benefits of devotion are made evident. This principle is implanted within the human breast, for wise and important purposes. We are charm- ed with what is novel; we frequently enjoy a fore- taste of the pleasures of this life, by the promise of what is desirable or lovely. So, likewise, there are times in which we contemplate the wonders of Providence, in a way which dazzles all earthly considerations. The world and all the engage- ments are absorbed in the consideration of our ..- * ■ ,-jf-^ jf chaos, nd to the rtioned a nore emi- tiates, in a [ed, to the XJnceas- amotion of pp'iness in- ) desirable, our nature, ppiness, by iner, an ex- oul are call- d to glorify ;e by which Ident. This iman breast, e are charm- enjoy afore- the promise lewise, there }\e wonders |es all earthly the engage- lation of ouv 223 I great Parent. This tendency to draw the soul to a single object, and unite all the efforts of thought, is probably the means (unaccountable to us) by which we are led on, step by step, towards heavenly knowledge. By gradual degrees are our views enlarged from the fulness of his glory; and faith, which is at first hardly perceivable to exist, is at last amplified in an inconceivable man- ner. Thus is the bulwark of Christian warfare established, on a firm and incorruptible basis ; and the object of our adoration never ceases to be the source of delight. Numerous, indeed, are the benefits derived from devotion, and hence the infinite obligations due to our God. We are every where admonish- ed throughout the sacred volume, to humble our- selves before him, for the various manifestations of the divine favour conferred upon us, during our state of existence in this life ; as well as for the blessed expectation of reward in that which is to come- He enriches the earth with harvests for the use of man, and having created him a body, as well as a soul, it is meet and right that both should take a part in his service, and that this duty be showed forth by external signs. He is our God, and can we testify our knowledge of his love and care towards us better, than by a i] ')fi k % t' ( la I- i' St 224 'I ■) constant obedience to his commands, in his own appointed way? The good shepherd provideth for his flock, he feedeth them in green pastures, he suflereth them not to stray; by gentle means doth he lead his followers, whom he hath pur- chased with his own blood, through the way of truth ; admonishing them in the line of duty, he refreshes them with his spirit, and disseminates the seeds of the word in their hearts. It is an in- cuml)ent duty on us, that we disregard not the discipline, which he established means of grace have set before us. When the feast is prepared, shall we neglect or refuse to participate in its blessings? When God calleth,- shall we not an- swer by an attendance upon his holy ordinances, by a participation in the public worship of his church, into the visible family of which we have been adopted? Our peculiar relation to Jehovah, by means of the covenant of grace which he hath appointed for us, is another reason why we are bound to offer up our praises and thanksgivings at the throne of mercy. Believers are the adopted chil- dren of God, and joint heirs with Christ to an incorruptible inheritance. They have been re- generated by a new birth unto righteousness, and thereby made the heirs of eternal life : which pri> I his own provideth pastures, tie means hath pur- :he way of f duty, he sseminates It is an in- rd not the IS of grace \ prepared, pate in its we not an- ordinances, ship of his ch we have )y means of I appointed e bound to ngs at the lopted chil- hrist to an e been re- lusness, and : which pn-^ 225 vilege is set forth in the word adoption ; in order to show that, before, they were alienated by a state of nature ; so that, they could not by any other title obtain the heavenly patrimony. This eternal source of blessedness has been procured through the mediation of Christ ; and the act of divine grace, by which sinners liable to the punishment of death, are translated out of this deplorable condition, and made capable of a filial relation- ship, is exceedingly wonderful : nothing less than omnipotent power could be sufficient to effect such change. The children of God are all the objects of his care ; he feels compassion for them wRen under the rod of correction, with a fatherly hand he administers consolation to their infir- mities, and givfs his angels charge to encamp around their dwelling. What a favour to obtain the protection of a kind, indulgent father! Act, therefore, in obedience to this high privilege; be not diverted by the lleeting vanities of this world; set forth by your life and conduct, that you have a lively faith in God's mercies. Let it appear by acts of solemn devotion, and persevere in a steady conduct before God and man; worship in sin- cerity; show forth the fruits of your obedience, by a joyful acquiescence in the truth, as it is in Christ Jesus; lay hold of his righteousness and 'a m •11 226 M.'\ (:*• [■ gracious promises as the Saviour, and you will be finally rewarded with a crown of ineffable glory. Let, therefore, the reader consider well his character. Are you a Christian ? — If so in reality, then, indeed, are you an heir of glory, a child of God. It would be well to examine into the state of your own welfare, and the nature of that character, and the privileges attendant on it. If not, you bear the name to no purpose, and so far from being any service, I can give no flattering assurance to your condition; you are still subject to the penalty of sin ; you are still an alien and a sojourner in a foreign land. To thee, O Father of all beings, both animat- ed and inanimate nature utter forth unceasing praise; — the cattle of a thousand hills are fed by thy bounty ; — the least of thy creatures is deemed worthy of thy peculiar care; — the sun rises to enlighten and cheer the world by its rays, to in- vite thy creatures to the labour which thou hast given them to do; — refreshing showers fall to moisten the earth, to crown the harvest with plenty, and to mature the vine; — the cheerful choir of feathered songsters join their notes to celebrate thy praise; shall man then be found destitute of the spirit of praise for thy bounties: -.1^. "\ II I i! C you will ffabk ine well his in reality, a child of the state e of thai on it. If and so fav o flattering itill subject alien and a 22r I trust he will not. The spirit of dev )tion to a pious mind, is a source of unceasing comfort; it increases all the blessings of life; it strengthens every virtue. Cultivate this spirit, and let us abide stedfastly in the faith ; resolving to rely on his mercy, and to " worship the Lord in *he heautif of holiness^ / i a ■ \) i *S»«u;iL.'' hej CHAPTER XX, i feicneial description of the Country — Princeton : Nassau- Hall College : Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian Church — Trenton — Uoad to Philadelphia. 26th. The country, between New-Brunswick and Princeton, possesses considerable beauty. Variegated with the iindulating prospect of dis- tant hills and gradual declivities, the central is, perhaps, preferable to any other portion of the state of Ne w- Jersey . The road from New-Bruns- wick to Trenton, passes over part of the high grounds, so called; and presents to view a num- ber of fine seats. To this may be added, the constant improvements and cultivation, with the occasional verdure, the patch of stubble, and the orchard fields (for which the state is celebrated), shrouded with bending branches of ripened fruit, and a more luxuriant spot, at this season of the year, is rarely to be met with. Princeton is said to be the most elevated and healthy situation between Philadelphia and New- u t fijH ii •230 If |i f'*'»i ^. 1*! '■■ i' ' ir\ If '■ '■* h jV 1 ' |j^ York. During my stay there, I ascended the cu- pola of the College, in order to examine the view; but I do not think it so fine as that from the Princeton Academy now building; from which the prospect widens, to at least forty miles. The village is situated twelve miles from Trenton. It contains about one hundred houses, and six hun- dred inhabitants. This place is distinguished as the seat of Nas- sau-Hall College. Under the guidance of learn- ed and judicious professors, it has ever main- tained a highly respectable rank among the lite- rary institutions of our own, as well as foreign countries. The reason why it has acquired cele- brity in Europe, may be attributed to the public stations, held by the Alumni of this College. Ever ambitious to promote the genius and ho- nour of her members, this institution has raised to eminence more than any other of equal num- bers. Studious of all useful science, she has, notwithstanding, paid particular attention to those branches, so essential in the excitement of genius '•^Elocution and Mathematics. 27th. The Theological Seminary of the Pres- byterian Churchy was opened at Princeton about ten years ago, and permanently located there, the following year. The number of students, at the 231 , the cu- le view ; rom the m which ;8. The nton. It six hun- t of Nas- of learn- rer main- r the lite- 13 foreign lired cele- ^he public College, and ho- las raised ual num- she has, 311 to those t of genius the Pres' ;ton about there, the nts, at the opening of the institution, was three; and in the May following, they had increased to eight. This increase has continued, till the number now amounts to upwards of eighty. There are three professors; one of Didactic and Polemic Theo- logy, one of Ecclesiastical History and Church Government, and one of Oriental and Biblical Literature : by the first named, the instruction in Pastoral Theology is conducted ; and by the second, that on the composition and delivery of sermons. A public edifice has been erected in Princeton, sufficient to contain the apartments and lodging- rooms, for the accommodation of pupils. This edifice was commenced in the autumn of 1815, and in that of 1817, occupied by the Professors and Students. It is built of stone ; one hundred and fifty feet in length, fifty in breadth, and, in- cluding the basement, four stories high. Its workmanship is neat and economical. Besides the apartments allotted for the Recitations, Li- brary, and Refectory, it will furnish lodgings, when finished, for about one hundred pupils. On being introduced at the Seminary, I had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the in- ternal regulations ; and I cannot help expressing the high degree of satisfaction, derived from the ■'1. Mfi ,,. ♦ . . \ ■r^;i- 232 laV^Wi, m V 1 ' '. regularity and decorum, in which all things are conducted. No student is permitted, except for special reasons, to board out of the Seminary ; or unnecessarily to be absent from his own room, in the hours of study. A free use of the Library is granted ; but the Students are not permitted to carry the books out of the Seminary. Societies are formed by the Students, for their improve- ment in piety and knowledge. The hours of morning and evening prayer, of recitation, of study, and of recreation are fixed by the Pro- fessors. At the hour of dinner, I sat down with the Students. One of the Senior class asked a blessing ; and when the meal was finished, called upon another Student, to return thanks. The repast was frugal and savoury. It is the object of the Seminary, to provide for the endown- snt of Professorships and Scholar- ships. Without capable instructors, willing to devote themselves, for life, to the cause, and without provision being made for indigent stu- dents, it would be impossible to get along with any degree of usefulness. The Board of Direc- tors of the Seminary, however, have taken the most effectual means of securing the intended object, by the erection of a building on a suitable spot, and the establishment of a Theological Li- ..fcv. 233 Kings are xcept for inary ; or vn room, e Library rmitted to Societies improve- hours of itation, of y the Pro- down with ss asked a hed, called inks. The )rovide for id Scholar- willing to I cause, and iigent stu- |along with of Direc- taken the le intended |n a suitable )logical Li- brary. In doing this, the annual expences have far exceeded the amount of the interest on the capital stock ; so that the surplusage, from year to year, depends upon the contributions to the contingent fund. Being thus instituted in full operation, and the advantages more and more conspicuous, an appeal for charitable donations cannot fail to be more successful, as these exi- gences and the prospects of future usefulness, be- come known to the public. 28th. The charming country, which is every where presented on the road between Princeton and Philadelphia, cannot fail to attract particular observation. On every side, you behold the thriving appearance of farm houses, and the ra- pid progress of improvements. Here and there, the Church raises its towering spire to grace this land of enchantment. The eligible sites have been selected for the erection of gentlemen's seats; with which, for taste and elegance, few can be found to compare. Many circumstances combine to render these the suitable residences for persons retiring from the active pursuits of life, and desiring literary recreation. At the head of tide water, on the Delaware, stands the city of Trenton. This is one of the largest towns in the state of New- Jersey j and, in u 2 ■-^ter-- :a.,>. ■A ?■?-•' 234 a commercial point of view, possesses considera- ble advantages, which are promoted by reason of its vicinity to Philadelphia. One line of steam- boat navigation, between Philadelphia and New- York, is established at this place; but in case the tide does not suit, the passengers are occasionally landed four miles below, on the Pennsylvania side, and conveyed thence by a line of Post- Coaches. This mode of diversifying the scene, adds much to the pleasure of the traveller, by means of good roads, and agreeable prospects. The waters of the Delaware, near Trenton, form considerable rap'ds, which are not passed, but by batteaux, and Du. ham boats, with flour and other articles, in their passage to and from the Phila- delphia market. The beauty of Trenton is much enhanced, as also the river scenery, by the erec- tion of a new bridge, admired for its singular construction and solidity. Several public build- ings serve to grace this place, among which are a Bank ; and three other places of worship, besides an Episcopal Church lately rebuilt. After crossing the bridge, we continued our ride by a pleasant road near the shores, and in view of the Delaware. The country here has long since been rendered beautiful, by the culti- vated enclosures, and charming villas that line ■r:y ^^. ■>»,:"■, '^' ■-H*', *■ '"•^^^ ^-^ i msidera- eason of f steam- nd New- [ case the :asionally nsylvania of Post- ;he scene, iveller, by prospects, iton, form ed, but by r and other the Phila- on is much y the erec- ;s singular iblic build- ivhich are a lip, besides itinued our )res, and in -y here has )y the culti- as that line " 235 the banks of the river. Well finished houses, and thriving villages, are continually in sight, handsomely decorated with trees. Now and then, on the distant margin of the river, presents itself to view, the delicately painted, white dwell- ing; its windows ornamented with the green Ve- netian blinds, half concealed behind the bending willow, or peeping gaily over the extended lawn. Strips of garden in rich abundance, and orchards loaded with fruit: as apples, pears, and quinces; the harvest patch, or verdant meadow lie stretch- ed behind these neatly situated villas. The ./hite sails of sloops and shipping, are seen wav- ing over the waters. At the opposite side rises the city of Burlington, whose brick houses are pleasantly situated, on a bold shore interspersed with trees. The town situated on the elevated bank of the river and facing this, is called Bristol, where Fashion has held her court. It is one of the most charming spots along the Delaware ; and is ad- mired for the elegant taste and beauty of the white Pavilions protruding from its high banks. The road hence to Philadelphia extends over a beautiful gravel turnpike, through a pleasant country. The intervening towns of Holmes- burgh and Frankford, strung along the line, pre» I 'I '5\ ■J /■. 'if '. > i . t / n !i i I \r \ ,jj< 236 vent the view, which every where else is discover- able of the farm-house, or gentlemen's mansion : anticipation is alive with the flattering promise, when the citv dawns on the view. >-5^''^ir'" CHAPTER XXI. city of Philadelphia : Reflections : Advice to the Tourist : Rise and Fall of Nations : Preference given to Travelling in a new Country : Study of Nature. No traveller who has ever been in Philadelphia, but must derive increasing pleasure from seeing it, again and again. The first impressions re- ceived on entering, are, from the surprisiug neat- ness and cleanliness of the general appearance j though to a constant inmate, the contrast with other cities in this respect, is not readily observ- ed. In a place of equal size, there is not often more care bestowed on the streets, houses, and pavements. To a stranger there is a degree of imposing grandeur in the regular well built houses; and the Doric chastity of public buildings creates an idea of the venerable, or long-established Metropolis. The even range of walls on either side, together with the uncommon bright colour of the bricks, the white marble window-pieces, and steps in front of the delicately painted doors, produce an air of gayety and elegance, which the h 238 European citizen cannot pass unnoticed. The interminable length of streets, and contiguity of right angles, confer an idea of stateliness, order, and beauty of arrangement, as well as an appear- ance of comfort, which no other city can boast. In walking through Chesnut street, the fancy is awakened by busy reflections. Whence have all these beauties sprung? Whence this pure style of architecture and classic elegance ? this State-House, where the first Congress met, and signed the Declaration of Independence f That event which gave new birth to the States, and raised to glory this transatlantic world. Little more than a century back, and the now flourishing Capital of Pennsylvania had no existence ! Consider this place, when Penn first planted his infant colony on the shores of the Delaware : and what it now is. Compare the beauteous scenery and deep verdure, which now line those shores, once covered by an unbroken range of wilderness, which plough nor axe had ever pierc- ed. Then behold the encroachments of cultiva- tion, the birth of settlements, the growth of towns, together with the unvaried increase of population, throughout our western country : and we are led in wonder to exclaim ; this is a A. "~"^ f^Tf,'. "" '" i".t" '^''^St-^ '-"• .'i*' '^.^iJCJtfT *'""*.■" 'V " ' ^■'^Iffl' '^■'iv^Wi^Ai f'^ ^^fw*^ " ' ed. The tiguity of ss, order, .n appear- ^ boast, the fancy ;nce have this pure mce ? this met, and ce f That itates, and •Id. Little flourishing nee ! Tst planted Delaware : beauteous line those n range of ever pierc- of cultiva- growth ot increase of country : this is a 1 239 land of enchantment^ this is my home and my country ! " Man, through all ages of revolving time, Unclianging, man, in every varying clime, Deems his own land of every land the pride, Beloved by Heaven o'er all the world beside ; His home the spot of earth supremely blest, A dearer, sweeter spot than all the rest." MoNTGOMERr. These are subjects worthy of general consi- deration. The study of his own country is in- teresting to every person, but peculiarly so to the tourist. It may be well said to be among the earliest feelings; the very offspring of our nature. Let the traveller be well acquainted, before set- ting out, with all the advantages of his own coun- try : its government — resources — laws. He will then be able to learn all that is to be found worthy of observation, wherever he goes. It is only by comparison, that this is to be done; and that, where a competent knowledge is obtained for the purpose. He starts, as it ^7 ere ^full-hand- ed^ on a journey; and is able, by communication with others, to excite a reciprocal interest, and, thereby, to call forth the energy of transient as- sociates J or, in other words, to give and receive \ f^:M. W / ^^' Ln V'; -Vjifit'^.WLf. 240 I I \ in an equal ratio ; as also, to secure the best in- formation and company. Numerous circumstances may conspire, to make impressions upon the traveller, either fa- vourable or otherwise, by which his judgment will be more or less biassed. The same object may appear differently, at different times, to the same eyes; national or individual prejudices may arise, at one timt, sufficient to create a doubt of those facts, which at another would be palpable to the senses. It is necessary, if we would judge fairly, to be disburdened of these prejudices to- tally; antl even should this be the case, certain fortuitous circumstances may intervene ; some want of natural spirits in ourselves, the influence of a dull companion, or the thousand incongru- ities " that fiesh is heir to^"* may be sufficient to chagrin the temper, or vitiate the judg- ment. The tourist will be best inclined to do justice to men and manners, when his disposi- tion is not marred by these nameless casualties. He will do well, therefore, not to sit down to write, or pass judgment, till he has well convinced himself that he is in a good humour, and di- vested of all prejudice. Let him consult com- fort in travelling, for without this there is no pleasure ; he must be particular about the time, — 241 : best in- spire, to either fa- judgment me object les, to the dices may a doubt of e palpable ould judge judices to- ise, certain ene ; some le influence incongru- e sufficient the judg- ined to do his disposi- casualties. it down to I convinced ur, and di- Dnsult com- Lhere is no the time,— iTie mode of conveyance, — the ultimate pursuit,— and of all things, the companions with v^hom the route is intended to be made. . . ; i, ; But we constantly find, in the historical page, an eventful account of the rise, progress, and de- cay of nations. The unrelenting hand of time has strewed with horrid desolation, its ravages over countries once populous and flourishing. Proud Hion's walls no more are seen ! Babylon — the great, the flourishing Babylon — the pride of eastern cities — the admiration of kings — the wonder of the world ! Where is now thy glory ? — thy boasted grandeur ?— thy gates of brass? — thy hanging gardens ? — Are there no traces left? — none! — the spot itself unknown ! ! Long since has Carthage fallen; her deeds are told! and while the intrepidity of her defenders is recorded in the direful story of that once rich city; — the powerful rival of ancient Rome ;— another me- mento is added to the inevitable scene of ruin. Imperial Rome herself, the seat of learning and arts, presents but a faint glimmering of her pris- tine lustre. Her ancient palaces lie mouldering into dust. Her Coliseum, Temples, and Tri- umphal Arches, indented with the marks of uni- versal destiny, are evidences of this lamentable truth. When we recur to the fact afl'orded by / m w i24fi the perpetual changeableness of this visible world, we are impelled to refer all to the over-ruling hand of Providence. By a due comparison of countries, -the blessings attendant on our own are easier to be discovered, as these effects are not yet so visible. One great inference, then, I think, may fairly be drawn, in favour of travelling in a new coun> try, by the effect produced on the mind. Inas- much as the gradual fall of nations, creates an idea of grief, so the tendency to rise promotes a contrary effect, when the comparison is made. It is on the present decay and the departed great- ness, that we dwell in viewing the old, and thus a gloom is overcast ; but transfer this scene to the na- tural advantages of the new country, and how the field brightens! The pleasure of travelling thus depends on retaining the whole picture in view; and is founded, in a great measure, on the new- ness of a country, and the reasonable expecta- tions formed of its tendency to improve. The gloss of novelty^ therefore, is to be considered as the most favourable characteristic, to direct the Tourist. All around him then breathes so much freshness, the vigour of youth appears, and he looks into a new charter of existence ; where time has not yet unfolded his wings. This satisfaction we enjoy by means of travel' ^W >i e world, :r-ruling ri3on of own are 3 are not lay fairly lew coun- d. Inas- reates an romotes a made. It ted great- and thus a e to the na- id how the |elling thus •e in view ; In the new- ie expecta- ove. The sidered as direct the tcs so much trs, and he where time of travel- 243 ling through a new country, awakened at every step, and heightened, by the most interesting feel- ings; in which point of view, America possesses superior advantages, to almost all other coun> tries. Extending over every habitable latitude, her climate is capable of becoming suitable for the residence of the native of any other. The peaceful emigrant, disposed to cultivate the lands^ finds himself immediately settled down amongst others, with a common object of pursuit. It is the vital happiness and prosperity of each individual, that mutual assistance should be conferred, and every thing done, to facilitate the progress of his neighbour. — New countries want only cultivators of the soil.— The general good, is the individual good. — The laws are propitious. — The climate invites. — And kind nature bestows, on her in- dustrious progeny, the smile of approbation. Where is the land besides, that possesses, in so eminent a degree, these advantages ? " What other land is there, which tells only of improve- ment, or points not the imagination back to bet- ter days." It is hardly possible to behold such a land, and contemplate its prosperity, — its cities and towns springing up, as it were, by the very touch of the 3Iagkian^ — its flourishing and active population extending over the desolate western VI m 1 .^ •-^<'(^ '^ 244 forests, untrodden before, save by the wild hun- ter, or the savage beast, without being sensibly struck with the truth of ihe above observations. It may be further observed, that travelling is productive of real advantages, in another point of view; inasmuch as it affords an opportunity of studying' 7iature attentively, and thus the feel- ings are profitably awakened. Here is a school for the heart. It is here we may learn our duty ♦o God— to our neighbour — and to ourselves. ^ " Not content With every food of life to nourisli man, }{y kind illusions of the wandering sense. Thou mak'st all nature beauty to his eye. Or music to his eaj\" Akensiok. There is not any circumstance, which can pro- duce a more profound veneration for God, than the consideration, that he is the maker and pre- server of all things. When we behold the works of nature, we are filled with unceasing wonder. The ideas thus excited, are a natural inducement for us to fall down and worship that Being, who has created, out of nothing, all the numberless worlds which surround us; who has suspended them in the Heavens, and caused them to revolv<- «**■■ t245 id hun- iensibly ationa. :Uing is er point ortunity the feel- a school our duty elves. 5, e, UKNSlDi: God can pro- , than and pre- the works g wonder. liducement leing, who lumberless I suspended to revolvt- round each other, in their respective orbs, throughout the immensity of space: by whose im- petus, they are made to depend upon, as well as to sustain, one another; to communicate light and heat to all the creatures which they contain, His powerful hand retains the sun in his orb, and the sea within its confines. I"^e confers life n myriads of creatures, in whose hisjht, not ar atom passes unnoticed, or a " uparrow fiUls ■? the ground.^'' How diminutive are al! these, *n com- parison with the immense globes, which nightl; are presented to our view ; or all things terrestnal, to this great and glorious Author? W\n then can presume to offend the Almighty, whose arm is every where stretched out, — who beholdeth the evil and the good, and who, in one instant, can create or destroy ! It seems impossible to reflect for a moment upon the ways of Providence, without being sen- sibly struck with the amazing goodness, every where discoverable, through'^nt animal creation: the most minute being in ej»i. .tnce is his pecu- liar care. They seem all to have been intended, by their beneficent Author, for some particular end. They obey th^ii^^ Creator's voice. The cattle crop the tender grass, and drink the purl- ing stream. The swift are fitted for the race. X 3 -'^1 --'\. 24d r Among all may be traced, Nature's unerring hand. Observe the feathered tribe, with pinion light, and form suitable to the aerial region. The pur- poses of the Creator are discernible in the eye, the talons, and the beak of the hawk ; the active form and light limbs of the deer. Can it then be possible to discover so base a principle in the hu- man heart, as to oppose his will, by denying to a fellow creature the out-stretched arm of pity; when the infinite beneficence of God, is every where to be traced? Ought not mankind to learn charity, in proportion as they see this wonderful goodness of God shed abroad in the universe? If we would excite this celestial love towards ourselves, we should endeavour by all possible means to cherish it for others. Since then we have abundant proofs of the wisdom, goodness, and power of that Being, who directs every thing, continually before us, we are inspired with emotions of love and gratitude, particularly by the contemplation of nature. Loudly is this truth proclaimed ; that " God is Love.^* It was love, that caused him to create the world, for the manifestation of his glory, that he might contribute life, health, and hap- piness, to numberlesa other beings : to whom the beauty and grandeur of the earth, the pleasing ,,.-J*:.. ;*' >/ hand. light, \t pur- le eye, : active then be the hu- ing to a f pity; s every to learn onderful niverse ? towards possible s of the ing, who us, we gratitude, nature. " God is to create lis glory, and hap- whom the pleasing 247 variety of seasons, and the innumerable other bounties of his providence, throughout the re- gions of animated nature, are continual sources of enjoyment. " These are thy glorious works, thou source of gooii\ How dimly seen, how faintly understood! Thine, and upheld by thy paternal care, This universal frame, thus wondrous fair; Thy pow'r divine, and bounty beyond thought, Ador'd and prais'd in all that thou has wrought. Absorb'd in that immensity 1 see, I shrink abas'd, and yet aspire to thee : Instruct me, guide me to that heav'nly day, Thy words more clearly than thy works display ; That, while thy truths my grosser thoughts refine, I may resemble thee, and call thee mine." The Almighty Disposer, it appears then, was guided by love, in that he communicated to num- berless beings a portion of happiness approach- ing to that which he himself enjoyed: from the Archangel down to the minutest being, each re- ceived a share, proportionate to the measure of its own capacity. . There is not a single creature existing, which does not afford proof of the fact : and man, in an eminent degree, being Ciidowed with the faculty of reason ; v/nereby he is en- abled to feel and appreciate these favours. The i 'I \ i I ii 1, :^/ 248 Creator hath given him all power over the beaH of the jield^ and \kit.fo-vol of the air ; and he hath made the earth to bring forth fruit, for his use and convenience. Since then it is he, that careth for us^ shall not we care for ourselves P The duties which he hath enjoined, call loudly for the exer- cise of those faculties, bestowed in conformity to the vital principles of our existence. The commands of God enforce an obligation, to be active in this exercise. The consideration rises ever before us, that we have been created for an eternal existence ; and hence we may learn what constitutes the duty of this life, and prepare for happiness in another. (Cr As the incidental expences of this Tour are not men- .tioned in the present work; it may not be amiss to state, that the total amount did not cost the individual above one hundred and fifty dollars : if more time were allowed, the ratio per day might be lessened. ^. • .' ■ BRIER NEW^YORK TO UTlCA. Mile* Page Milei Page New-York, ^ Palatine Village, 4 — Highlands, — 4 Manheim, 10 10 Environs of Albany, — 9 Little Falls, 10 11 Schenectady, 16 10 Herkimer, 6 12 Amsterdam, 17 ib. Schuyler, 6 ib. Caughnawaga, 9 — Utica, 8 13 Palatine Bridge, 15 — UTICA TO NIAGARA. M. P. M. P. New Hartford, 4 19 Gorham, 5 — ■Westmoreland, 7 20 Canandaigua^ 4 47 Vernon, 6 ib. Bloomfield, 8 58 Oneida Cr. 5 21 Lima, 9 ib. Sullivan, il S3 Avon, 9 ib. Ohittinengo Rr. 3 — Genesee Landing, 1 ib. Manlius, 6 33 Caledonia, 7 60 Derne, 3 ib. Le Roy, 5 ib. Jamesville, 3 ib. Stafford, 4 ib. Onondaga, ' 4 ib. Hatavia, 8 60 West Hill, 1 34 Tonnewanta Cr, 4 62 Marcellus, 9 ib. Pembroke, ^ ib Skeneateles, . 6 ib. Clarence, V 17 ib Auburn, 8 36 Williamsville, j ib Cayuga E. 8 41 Buffalo, 19 63 Seneca Falls, 4 42 Black Rock Ferry, 2 ib. Waterloo, 4 ib. Palmer's, 6 —. ('■eneva. 6 44 Chippewa, 9 64 Seneca, 7 — Niagara Fall4i 3 €5 ¥ f ,». ►••■»*^ 4 fc> •'.. 250 NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. M. P. M. t. Queenston, 7 84 Milleroches, 31 120 Newark, 7 85 Cornwall, 6 ib. York, 40 87 Coteau du Lac, 25 121 Kingston, 120 95 Cedres, 7 124 Gananoque, 18 105 Chataugay, — ib. Brockville, 36 110 Grand Portage, — 125 Prcscott, 14 117 La Chine, — ib. Williamsburgh, 19 118 Montreal, 7 129 MONTREAL TO ALBANY. M. P. M. P. La Prairie, 9 149 W. Granville, 11 174 St, John's, 18 152 E. Granville, 3 ib. Isle aux Noix, 14 153 Hebron, 9 ib. Windmill Point, 12 Salem, 8 ib. Plattsburgh, 17 154 Cambridge, 16 ib. Burlington, 18 158 Pitts Town, 13 ib. Crown Point, 30 167 Lansingburgh, 10 181 Ticonderoga, 15 168 Troy, 3 182 Whitehall, 30 171 Albany, 6 18S ALBANY TO NEW-YORK. M. P. M. P. Baltimore, 10 — Fort Montgomery, 3 — Kinderhook, 3 — Peekskill Landing, 6 — Hudson, 13 — Verplank's Point, 4 — Catskill, 5 — Croton, 5 — Livingston's Manor, 4 — Tarry Town, b — Rhinebeck, 20 — Philipsburgh, 11 — Poughkeepsie, 16 — Kingsbridge, 4 — New burgh. West Point, 14 — New-York, 12 3 9 — NEW-VORK TO PHILADELPHIA. M. P. M. P. Newark, 9 209 Bristol, 10 235 Elizabeth Town, 6 ib. Holmesburgh, 11 ib. New-Brunswick, 17 211 Frankford, 4 ib. Princeton, 18 229 Philadelphia, 5 23r Trenton, 12 233 FINIS. M. r. 21 120 6 ib. 25 121 7 124 ib. 125 _,.,,- ib. 7 129 M. P. 11 174 3 ib. 9 ib. 8 ib. 16 ib. 13 ib. 10 181 3 183 6 18S M. p. 3 — 6 4 5 b 11 4 12 2 M. P. 10 235 11 ib. 4 ib. 5 2iT ,d