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The original copy was borrowed from, and filmed with, the kind consent of the following institution: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire film§ fut reproduit gt&ce d la g6n6rositd de I'dtahlissement prdteur suivant : Bibliothdque nationale du Canada Maps or plates too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper Inft hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes ou les planches trop grandes pour §tre reproduites en un seui cliche sont filmdes d partir de Tangle supdrieure gauche, de gauche d droits et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Le diagramme suivant illustre la mdthode : 1 2 3 Brrata to pelure, )n d n 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■»"--■'<. '%«^' I ^p* / K.MG-RAVF rmOTIVir I'-ROM A PHOTOGHAPH BY WHI'J : ■■.._^— LETTERS AND JXTRACTS FROM THE ADDRESSES AND OCCASIONAL WRITINGS OF J. BEETE JUKES, M.A. F.R.S. F.G.S. hkTT. LOCAL DIKECTOE OF THE GEOLOGICAL SUEVEY OP IRELAND, ETC. ETC. ETC. (ttixitb, feil^ tonncdmg Memorial ^ot^s, BY HIS SISTER. ' To live in hearts we leave behind Is not to die.' Campbhll, '.lA'ii , LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICCADILLY. 187Z. [All rights reserved."] 4084 ^ TO THE REV. ADAM SEDGWICK, M.A. F.R.S. WOODWARDIAN PROFESSOR IN THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE, ETC. £TC. ETC. In dedicating to you this memorial of a beloved Brother, I ■would recall his own words on a like occasion, and ' acknow- ledge your great kindness shown to him as an Undergraduate at Cambridge, and subsequently renewed at many periods of his life. Upon the course of that life your influence was as j^reat as it was beneficial ; and you were always most grate- fully and affectionately remembered by your attached pupil.' Permit me to join in these sentiments of regard for the Master under whom my Brother not only learnt the Science he loved so well, but whose example he followed in devoting his life to its exposition and advancement. I beg to subscribe myself, with much respect and esteem, Very faithfully yours, C. A. BROWNE. Che first p fewfoimdl family, reli and to his - The Le ^arge a pai Teological geologists, luestions i ^articular i ^idered tha nm the ke- to form a raries. Althoui U the scienc jies there w 3f more ge [ngleby. The Ed 'rofessor I PREFACE. The first part of this work consists of Letters written from [ewfoimdland and Australia to members of Mr. Jukes' own family, relating principally to the incidents of his voyages, and to his work as surveyor and naturalist in those countries. The Letters addressed to Professor Eamsay, forming so [arge a part of the collection, exhibit the working of the ireological Survey, and depict the kind of life led by the field geologists. They convey also Mr. Jukes' views on those |r|uestions to which he had paid special attention, and in )articular the classification of the Devonian rocks. He con- sidered that his work in the south-west of Ireland had given lim the key to the true structure of Devonshire, and led him to form a different conclusion from some of his contempo- raries. Although the chief topic upon which these I^etters dwell fs the science that absorbed so much of his thoughts and ener- gies there will also be found some Letters relating to subjects 3f more general interest, especially those to his cousin Dr. Ingleby. The Editor desires here to record her great obligation to 'rofessor Kamsay for the trust he reposed in her by placing • • • via PREFACE, her Brother's amj^e correspondence with him in her hands, and for his valuable assistance in selecting and, when neces- sary, annotating the Letters most suitable for publication. Her thanks are also due to Mr. Whitaker of the Geologi- cal Survey, for so kindly furnishing the complete chronological list of Mr. Jukes' works, which has been added by way of appendix. September 1871, H! CONTENTS. PAGE ikoductory Note xix EARLY LIFE. 1811-1837. Parentage — Boyhood — Education and pursuits — Matriculation at Cambridge — Study of geology under Professor Sedgwick — Walking tours and lectures 3 [iCtters : To his Mother from Liverpool, Jime 1837 . . .17 1838. [o the same from Derby . .18 Co his Sister, Dovedale. Strutt 'a factory 19 Co his Aunt, Nottingham. Whatstandwell and Crich ClifE . 21 Co his Sister, Nottingham. Lincoln 26 Co the same, Brailsford. Kinderscout 27 Co the same, Durham. Coast scenery 29 1839. |Surveying in Leicestershire — Charnwood Forest — Appointment as geological surveyor of Newfoundland 31 [Letter to his Aunt, London. Photography and Niepce . . 33 NEWFOUNDLAND SURVEY. 1839. [Explanatory notes — House of Assembly — Nature of the country — Mr. Jukes as a master — Duties of a geological surveyor . 37 [Letters : To his Mother. The Atlantic — Arrival at St. John's — Reception — Fire — Inland excursions 44 [To his Mother and other Relatives. Visit to Torbay — Cape St. Francis — Bell Island, &c. — Engages the * ketch' Beaufort . 61 [Journal Letter. Starts in the Beaufort — Spaniard's Bay — Walk to the head of Collier's Bay — Conception and other bays — Return to St. John's 57 |Journal Letter continued. Second trip in the Beaufort — St. Pierre —Bay of ifilands — St. George's Bay 66 CONTENTS. PAQI Journal Letter continued. Inland expedition to Grand Pond — Heavy gales and wrecks — Codwy River — St. Peter's Bay . 70 Journal Letter continued. Trepassfie Harbour — Ferryland — Storms — Return to St. John's — Prof. Stiiwitz . . . .83 To hia Sister, St. John's 89 1840, 1841. To his Sister. Christmas at St. John's — Sleighing parties — Lec- tures 89 To his Aunt. Proposed voyage to the ice — Missionaries — Party feeling at St. John's 93 Journal of an expedition to the ice, with account of seals . . 95 Letters : To his Sister, St. John's. House of Assembly . .105 To his Mother, St. John's. Future plans 107 To his Sister, St. John's. Outline of surveying work . . .109 To the same, Toulinquet 113 To the same, St. John's. Close of the survey . . . .115 Return to England — Lit. and Phil. Soc. at Wolverhampton — Dudley and Midland Geological Society — Extracts from ad- dresses Ill SURVEYING EXPEDITION TO TORRES STRAITS. 1842. Appointment as naturalist — Abstract of the voyage — First cruise 127 Letters : To his Sister, London. Preparations for the voyage . 131 To his Mother, Devonport. Receiving the admiral . . .132 To his Sister, Falmouth. Descent of Cornish mine — On the eve of sailing 134 To the same, Madeira. Delicious climate — Abcent of the Corrdl 135 To his Mother, Cape Verde Islands. Ascent of the Peak of Tene- riffe 140 To the same, Cape of Good Hope. Crossing the Line — Simon's To the same. Cape Town. Detained by lameness — Eullock- wagons 151 To his Sister, Hobarton. Island of St. Paul's — Admiration of Hobarton and neighbourhood 151 To his Mother, Sydney. Visit to Spring Vale — Tasman's Penin- sula 157 To his Sister, H.M.S. Fly. Sydney — Contrast between Sydney and Hobarton — Pleasant acquaintances 159 1843. To the Bame, Cape Upstart. Review of book on Newfoundland —Death of Stii ledge Letter to A. H. Bro\ in Wolverhampt( The coast of Queeni C. H. Allen Mr. Jukes' Journal islands and reef» and boat excursi with natives Letters : To his Sist man from treach To his Sister, N.E. c office — Port Essin trasted — Arrival i To A. H. Browne, h Advantages and c Abstract of the voya; Letters : To A. H. Br associations To his Sister, Sydney Mrs. Meredith — B To his Aunt, Sydney —Gigantic birds' I To his Mother, Sydne 1 To his Sister, Coast heat and damp — ! I To his Aunt, Barrier Campbell . I To his Sister, Sir C. '. action oppressive I To A. H. Browne, oi Sourabaya — Main I To his Aunt, Sourabs 1 To his Sister, Soural Scene sketched . I To his Aunt, Sourabt of Malang — Hind CONTENTS. xi PlOB —Death of Stiiwitz — Mode of acquiring geological know- ledge 163 Letter to A. H. Browne, Cape Upstart. Old friends and societies in Wolverhampton 167 The coast of Queensland — River Fitaroy — Geographical note by C. H. Allen 168 Mr. Jukes' Journal from the time of leaving Sydney — Coral islands and reefs — Capricorn Islands — Port Bowen — Inland and boat excursions, and search for fresh water — Interviews with natives ITl Letters : To his Sister, Cape Weymouth. Boat cruise — Loss of man from treachery of natives — Enjoyment of sailor's life . 190 To his Sister, N.E. coast of Australia. Booby Island and post- office — Port Essington — Tropical countries and England con- trasted — Arrival at Timor 198 To A. H. Browne, Swan River. Excursion into the interior — Advantages and drawbacks of the colony .... 204 Second Cruise. 1843. Abstract of the voyage 207 Letters : To A. H. Browne, Hobarton. Geological work — Home associations 214 i 1844. To his Sister, Sydney. Gaieties in Tasmania — Visit to Mr. and Mrs. Meredith — Bushrangers 216 To his Aunt, Sydney. Repair of the Bramble — George Bennett —Gigantic birds' bones from New Zealand . . . .218 To his Mother, Sydney. Contentment with his mode of life . 221 To his Sister, Coast N. of Rockingham Bay — Combination of heat and damp — Sir Charles Hardy's Islands — Raine's Islet . 222 To his Aunt, Barrier Reefs, Raine's Islet. Wreck of the Archibald I Campbell 225 To his Sister, Sir C. Hardy's Islands — Beauty of the corals — In- action oppressive 229 To A. H. Browne, off Sandalwood Island. Picturesque coast — Sourabaya — Malay language 232 To his Aunt, Sourabaya. Residence on shore — Mode of life . 235 I To his Sister, Sourabaya. Journey into the interior of Java — Scene sketched 237 1845. To his Aunt, Sourabaya. Beauty of the interior — Bromo — Plain of Malang — Hindoo temples 242 / xu CONTENTS. PAOB Letters : To his Sister, off Darnley Island. Triendly natives— Their dress, customs, and language , . . . .245 To his Aunt, off S. coast of Timor. Superiority of tiij Darnley islanders to the Australians — New Guinea— Missing boats — Hostility of the natives — N. coast of Java — Banca Straits . 250 To his Sister, Java Sea. New Guinea — Houses described — Freeh- water creeks — Wrecked crews at Port Essington — Pleasure of ladies' society — Banca Straits — Singapore .... 256 To his Sister, Sydney. Keceipt of letters with depressing tidings — Malacca — Orders for home 262 To his Sister, Bass's Straits. Leave Sydney — Expected arrival in England 267 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF ENGLAND. 1846. Return of Mr. Jukes to England — His nsiTative of the voyage — Appointment to the Geological Survey— Letters of Sir Henry de la Beche — Friendship with E. Forbes and Prof. Ramsay . 271 Letters : To Prof. Ramsaj', London 276 1847. To the same, Wolverhampton. Railway cuttings near that town — Importance of collecting facts relative to the Staffordshire coalfield 277 To the same, Bala. S. Staf. coalfield suitable for winter work . 280 To the same, Bala. Tracing limestone — Bala assizes — Aber Hir- nant 2831 To the same, Bala. Limestone and ash-beds . . , .285 To the same, Bala. On the same .28? To the same, Bala. On the same 288 1 To the same, Llan-y- Mowddwy. Limestone at great heights — Un- comfortable quarters — Foudness for animals — Puzzling ash- beds — Leave of absence 29H To the same, Bala. Sedgwick on the limestone — Difficult country — Necessity for revision of the maps 3O0 1 To the same, Cerrig-y-Druidion. Disappearance of the limestone — Prof. Forbes — Reviewers reviewed 30< I Note on the difiiculties of the country 306 1 Letters: To Prof. Ramsay, Yspytty Evun. Ash-beds — Reviews of the Narrative of ilie Fiy 3 To the same, Yspytty Evan. Bala limestone and Caradoc sand- stone — Partridges — S. Staffordfahire coalfield . . . . 311 1 To the same. Sketch of fossil— Tourist country and want of lodgings 3H| CONTENTS. • •• XIll PAOB Letters: To Prof. Ramsay. Discussion on the nomenclature of igneous roc^i 8 — Report on the Caradocian boundary . .316 To the same. Importance of tracing the boundary of the Mid- land coalfitid — Bala ash-beds — Episode on shooting tempta- tions 320 To the same. Use of the terms ' lava' and * trap' . . . 326 To the same. Origin of ash-beds 331 To the same. Metamorphism . . . . . . . 336 To the same, Penmachno. Wish to have Selwyn in Staffordshire —The Quarterly 340 To the same, Wolverhampton. Journey from Wales . . . 342 To tLvi o-jae. Interesting coal-pit 344 ■ 1848. To the same. Survey engagements 345 To the same. N. Staffordshire coalfield 346 To the same. Paper on N. Wales 347 To the same, Dudley. Coal-beds and trap 348 To the same, Dudley. Ditto 849 To the same, Llanwddyn. Bala ash-bed 360 To the same, Llanrhaiadr. Bala limestone again — Drunken habits of the people 351 To the same, Llangedwyn, On the position and termination of the Caradoc beds 352 To the same, Llangollen. Weariness of enforced idleness . . 354 To the same, Llangollen. Finishing the Oswestry, Bala, and Llangollen sheets 365 To the same, Llandrillo. Walk over the Berwyns — Greenstone and greenstone ash — Strike of the Silurian rocks . . . 357 To the same, Llandrillo. Direction and forces of elevation — Desirability of a discussion on this subject at the Geological Society 363 To the same, Corwen. The Berwyns explained by great faults coinciding with mineral veins 365 Note by Prof. Ramsay on the foregoing Letters .... 366 Letter to Prof. Ramsay, Wolverhampton. * Swell' in the thick coal differing from fault in ditto 367 Letters to De, Ingleby and other Relatives. Explanatory Notes by the Editor and Dr. Ingleby . . . 369 Letters : To Dr. Ingleby, Wolverhampton. Controversies on re- ligious subjects undesirable — Opinions differ as much as countenances. Nov. 1847 . 374 XIV CONTENTS. PAOI Letters : To Dr. Ingleby, Llanrhaiadr. Geological rhymes. May 1848 377 To the same, Llaurhaiadr. Critique on Shelley's poems. June 1848 378 To the same. On the same subject. June 1848 . . , .382 To the same, Llanrhaiadr. Moral government of the world and political speculations. July 1848 383 To the same. On special providence and the mystery of free will. July 1848 . ." 386 To the same. On the happiness of the human race as part of the scheme of creation. Aug. 1848 389 To the same, Llangollen. On the mistake of separating the moral and intellectual faculties, and the necessity of moral training. Aug. 1848 395 To the same, Dudley. On the beauty and fitness of the style of Macaulay. May 1849 401 To the same. On the same subject. May 1849 . . . .402 To A. H. Browne. N.B. coast of Australia. On religious and political opinions, and agreement in differing. April 1843 and Oct. 1844 404 To A. H, Browne, Llanwddyn. On political reforms. April 1848 411 To the same. On the land-tax and a political consultation with B. Forbes. April 1848 412 To his sister, Llangollen. On the desirability of combining the study of history with physical geography. Aug. 1848 . . 415 1849. Letters : To Prof. Ramsay, Dudley. On coal-formation, sinkings, &c 419 To the same. On the same subject 421 To the same. On the origin of coal 422 To the same. On the desirability of exhibiting maps and sectiont, of the S. Staffordshire coalfield at the meeting of the Brit. Assoc, at Birmingham . 425 Engagement of Mr. Jukes 428 Letters: To Prof. Ramsay, Halesowen. On working at Har- bome) 429 To the same. Ou change of rhythm , , , . . .431 To the same, Worcester. On sonnets 432 To the same, Halesowen. On the surveyorship of N. S. Wales. 433 To the same, Harborne. On the same subject . . . .434 To the same, Harborne. On section-work 435 To the sauie. On lodging difficulties in Wales . . . .436 '^ CONTENTS. XV Marriage of Mr. Jukes, and the death of his Mother , . . 437 Letters : To Prof. Ramsay. On improvements in the department of ' Woods and Forests' 438 1850. To the same, Merchlyn. On the Caradoc and ' pale spates' . . 439 To the same. On submarine volcanic rocks . . . .441 To thp same, Bala. Section work and the six-inch-map question 442 To the same, Ffestiniog. Eunning sections over mountains and valleys 444 To the same, Bala. On section tables and a proposed new book by Sedgwick 445 To the same, Llangollen. On finishing Staffordshire work, and appointment to the Irish survey 447 To the same, Eugeley. On the Rhetic beds in Staffordshire . 449 To the same, Rugeley. On finishing the coalfield — Report on water-works at the Clent Hills— Shooting at Beaudesort— Faults in the coalfield, and appointment to Ireland .... 451 Note by Prof. Ramsay . 454 IRISH SURVEY. 1851. Editor's Notes 457 Letters : To Prof. Ramsay, Dublin. On the Old Red Sandstone at Llangollen, and the six-inch maps 460 To the same, Dungarven. Depression of health and spirits. Age of valleys 462 To the same, Monkstown. Memorial of S. Staffordshire — Electro- biology 464 Visit of E. Forbes to Mr. and Mrs. Jukes at Monkstown . . 465 Letter to Prof. Ramsay, Dublin. On the practical uses of Geo- logical Survey, and the loss incurred by bad mining . . 467 Note on the eame BT:bject 470 1852. Letters : To Prof. Rumsay, Museum, London. On the Clent Hills trap and pebblo beds— Lectures on the gold regions . . 473 I To the same, Cork. On Ludlow and Wenlock rocks . . . 476 I To the same, Macroom. On the necessity of maps being accom- panied by explanatory memoirs ...... 478 |Tc the same, Macroom. On his own feelings of non-resentment 479 1853. iTo the same, Dublin. On Silurian and Cambrian . . .481 [Extract from a paper on the same subject by J. B. Jukes and An- drew WUey 482 XVI CONTENTS. PAOg Letters : To Prof. Ramsay, Rathdrum. On trap rocks, and the want of power to carry out his own system of work . . 485 To his Sister, Bathdrum. On the pressure of work, and rapid flight of time 487 To Prof. Enmsay, Dublin. Running section through the Lickey coal-measures 488 1854. Note of Address to Geological Society of Dublin . . . .489 Extracts from Letters to Prof. Eamsay on the death of Edward Forbes . . . 491 1855. Extract from Address to Geological Society of Dublin . .492 Letter to his Sister relating to a journey to Auvergne and St. Etienne 494 1866. Letters : To Prof. Eamsay, Omagh. On tho classification of the Lower Paleozoic 501 To the same, Killeny Harbour. On Silurian and conglomerates . 502 To the same, Dublin. On Welsh geology, and former work near Llangollen 603 To the same, Dublin. On ^is Manual of Geology, and conglom- erates in Wales 507 1858. To the same, Dublin. On his memoir and work in S. Staffordshire, and the mode of living in Newfoundland , , , ,509 To the same, Castletown. On survey maps and the accompany- ing memoirs . . 612 Letters to the Times on the state of Ireland : No. 1. Estrangement of the L-ish 513 No. 2. Landlords and tenants . , . , ... 520 No. 3. Agency system . . . . . . . .529 1859 to 1869. Controversy on changes of climate 541 Address to the Geol. Section of the Brit. Assoc, at Cambridge . 541 Discussion on the mode of formation of mountain chains and valleys 543 Lecture on the coal-measures of S, Staffordshire at the meeting of the Brit. Assoc, in Birmingham 544 ^Chronological Li CONTENTS. xvu Account of the Geol. Survey, with notes added on publication , Letters to A. H. and C. A. Browne : On his controversy with Dr Hugh Falconer. April 1864 On Fenianlsm. Feb. 1866 . On the same subject. Dec. 1866 . On the same subject. March 1867 On his country life in Ireland. April 1867 On his wo^k in Devonshire. July and Aug. 1867 . . . . On South Kensington interferences. Sept. 1867 , . . . Notes and papers on the grouping of the rocks of N. Devon and W. Somerset Letters : To Prof. Ramsay, Taunton. On the same subject. Aug. 1866 ............ To the same, Dublin. On the addition to the staff of the Survey. Dec. 1866 . • To the same, Newton Abbott. On the Devonian rocks and fossils. Aug. 1867 To the same, Torcross. Ditto. Aug. 1867 To the same, Dublin. Ditto. Sept. 1867 To the same, Carlow. On the Devonian rocks, and as to personal feelings on points of scientific truth. Sept. 1867 Mr. Jukes' summary of his views on the Devonian question Editor's Notes : Mr. Jukes' devotion to science — Literary works Failure of health aggravated by a fall Journey to Cauterets, and Letters from Gosport, Cauterets, and Gudig. July and Aug. 1868 Illness and death Personal characteristics, and conclusion PA OK 545 553 554 55r. .■j56 557 558 559 .-.60 563 565 566 568 569 571 572 .")75 579 580 586 588 Chronological List of Works and Publications . 591 It is not until by death from enced, that vre of our commo] worship and sa ' utter, the pen i turn to what h we find those greet us in lettei they originally upon us, that it our memories; •lisagreements, v now dwindle int 'uind. But we Pathies, the chai bum within us i ■ ritualism' influent «peaketh' in lang j IS not surprising quentlyfail as hi and words burn' INTRODUCTORY NOTE. It is not until we have experienced the pain of being parted by death from one whom we have greatly loved and rever- enced, that we can fully realise and understand that feeling of our common nature which finds its expression in hero- worship and saint-adoration. When the voice can no more utter, the pen no longer convey the living thoughts, then we turn to what has been said or written in years gone by, and we find those words which the memory retains or which greet us in letters assume a fuller power and significance than they originally possessed. The consoling conviction dawns upon us, that it is the good and the true which remain in our memories j the small defects of character, the trifling ilisagreements, which at the time may have unduly vexed, now dwindle into utter insignificance, or entirely die out of mind. But we recall the kindly actions, the lively sym- pathies, the charitable judgments, and we feel our hearts bum within us to emulate these virtues. Thus a true 'spi- ritualism' influences us, and the loved one, * being dead, yet speaketh' in language more forcible than that of earth. It is not surprising that near relatives and partial friends fre- I quently fail as biographers ; for to them ' thoughts breathe [and words burn' with vivid meaning, while to the outer XX INTRODUCTORY NOTE. world they may seem comparatively lifeless and cold. This consideration might have prevented the present attempt, had the biography of a beloved Brother been contemplated ; but a humbler office is undertaken, viz. to form a slight frame- work in which may be set sketches drawn by his own hand with a clear and correct outline, often brightly and freshly coloured. His Letters are most characteristic of the man. His was a true and earnest spirit, impressing itself on all he did and all he wrote, of a nature peculiarly English, which in youtli finds its chief pleasure in visiting distant scenes and travers- ing foreign countries, and at the same time clings closely in affection to home and friends left behind, which shrinks from no amount of toil and danger, and yet encounters both in the quietest and most unpretending manner. ' A clear true-hearted man, unselfish in his labours, and looking steadily to the greatest and noblest ends of scienc The great cause of science suffered by his death ; for where shall we find so laborious and keen-sighted a worker H These words were written of Mr. Jukes after his deatt i by his old master and faithful friend Professor Sedgwick, whose commendation was throughout life more grateful to his | pupil than the praise of any other. West-hill, Highgate, October 1869. ^OL. I, EARLY LIFE AND LETTERS. 1811-1839. It vol. I, ? Parentage— Boy lation at Car wick — Wall Nottingham, in Leicesters] Joseph Beete of John and S hill, near Bin father and grar —the latter th lage in the nei^ amateur farmin place is now al chimneys, whicJ I on arriving at t built at Bordesle and floors, doul scendants, for n EARLY LIFE. 1811-1839. i Parentage— Boyhood — Early education and pursuits — Matricu- lation at Cambridge — Study of geology under Professor Sedg- wick — Walldng tours and lectures — Letters from Derby, Nottingham, Brailsford, Seaham, London — Surveying work in Leicestershire. Joseph Beete Jukes was the eldest child and only son of John and Sophia Jukes, and was born at Summer- hill, near Birmingham, on October 10th, 1811. His father and grandfather were manufacturer, of that town —the latter then residing chiefly at Bordesley, a vil- lage in the neighbourhood, where he carried on a little amateur farming, as a recreation from business. This place is now absorbed into the great mass of smoky chimneys, which meets the eye of the railway traveller on arriving at the Midland metropolis. Joseph Jukes built at Bordesley a substantial house, with oaken beams and floors, doubtless cherishing the idea that his de- scendants, for many generations, would appreciate its LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. solidity, and sun themselves in the pleasant gardens and fields surrounding the house — the property heing entailed in the male line. House and garden, fields and farm, now form part of the unlovely buildings and sheds belonging to the goods department of the Lon- don and North-Western Railway. Joseph Beete Jukes was christened after his mater- nal grandfather, Joseph Beete of Demerara. He had the irreparable misfortune of losing his father before he had completed his eighth year ; and his mother hav- ing three daughters to support on very slender means, and having been herself highly educated, commenced a school for young ladies in the neighbouring town of "Wolverhampton. In a few years she left it for the pleasant village of Penn in that vicinity, where she lived for ten years, greatly respected and beloved by all her pupils. The house being then required for other purposes, she removed to the village of Pattingham, six miles on the Shropshire side of Wolverhampton. Her son's maintenance and education were provided for, he being heir to the property at Bordesley above men- tioned. He was sent to the endowed grammar-school in Wolverhampton, where the tuition was of the un- satisfactory kind prevalent at that time in many minor foundation-schools. The teaching was confined entirely to one branch of learning, namely Classics ; and the discipline was of one kind only — the cane — which was SCHOOL SYSTEMS. administered in the undiscriminating manner frequent in tliose days.* He used to describe the astonishment of some new-comer, who had perhaps never heard of Homer and Virgil, and who, stumbling upon such a name as Thucydides, would pronounce it as a trisyl- lable with a long i, and receive in consequence such a sharp corrective as would doubtless impress the true sound on his memory, and at the same time greatly confuse his sense of right and wrong. But if the teaching was defective and the treatment tyranni- cal, the system was not of the prematurely forcing kind that now so often prevails for the mental and bodily faculties, and which, although it might have made of him a kind of * Admirable Crichton' among boys and youths before he was twenty years of age, would pro- bably have prevented him from becoming an eminent man among his compeers at thirty or forty. He passed a healthy and happy boyhood, unmarked by precocity, but showing a general intelligence and ability combined with quickness at work when he set about it. He was an eager follower of all youthful games and sports, very strong and active, devouring mental and bodily food with an omnivorous appetite, but especially delighting in books of travel. It is characteristic of * The above description of the Wolverhampton school has long ceased to be applicable, it having participated in the edu- cational reforms which have since taken place. LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m. ill lis iiii his tastes, that he spent his first pocket-money — of suf- ficient amount — in purchasing Cook's Voyages, which were read and re-read with the untiring interest that the favourite hooks of childhood commanded in the times when they were not so ahundant as now. His interest in geology commenced, as he himself said, ' from the time ho first saw a boulder-stone, and wondered how it got there ;* and was fostered and strengthened by an aunt in Birmixigham,. who possessed an excellent and admirably arranged cabinet of silurian fossils, in which reposed among other treasures that known as Illceims Barriensis, since beautifully figured and described in the Memoirs of the Geological Survey, vol. ii. But the study of geolof^y did not commence until he was at Cambridge, when the spirit-stirring lectures of Professor Sedgwick excited that love and enthusiasm for the science which afterwards distinguished him. From the Wolverhampton school, after a short time spent at that of Mr. Thursfield, Vicar of Pattingham, Mr. Jukes went to King Edward's School in Birming- ham, then under the head-mastership of the Kev. John Cook, the second-master being the learned and eccentric Rann Kennedy, in whose house he was boarder. Here the tuition was of a much higher order than at Wolver- hampton. Mr. Jukes was too young at the period of his father's death to feel the trial acutely, or to know all that he had lost ; but the death of the two sisters EARLY TASTES— POETRY. next to himself in age, and to whom he was warmly attached, was a severe blow to him. The annexed are fragments of some of those ' mortal lullabies of pain,' by which he probably sought to soothe his griefs to rest after the death of his second sister in 1831 : ' Thou art gone, and long, long years may roll In sullen silence o'er my head ; And Time may seem to blot the scroll Of memory where thy name is read. The smile again may curl my lip, And joy again may light my eye ; But till I of Death's waters sip, Thy sweet remembrance shall not die. Yes, thou art gone ! Thy youthful years Were like an April morning's beam — They rose in smiles, soon set in tears — A bright, but, ah ! too transient gleam.' * They are gone, and o'er them now Gently the grass is waving ; Cold, cold is each brow. Not a sigh their bosoms heaving. But there they lie So peacefully. And heed not their loved one that here sits weeping by.' It may in this place be appropriately stated why, from amongst many verses and fragments of poems, all but these few lines are withheld. Some years later in life, Mr. Jukes, in reply to a letter from a friend re- questing his opinion on the advisability of publishing some poems, gave his views in the following words : 8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. * In early youth poetry is a passion, and we natur- ally imitate what we so highly esteem. Even in man- hood, all who have any natural sensibility, or romance, or ideality, in their constitution have their moments of wayward fancy, in which the feelings are open to any impression, and the soul broods over them and nurses them into a condition of excitement. One of the na- tural outlets and escape -valves for this feverishness seems to be verse — good, bad, or indiflferent, according to the powers of the individual. So far, so good; let every one write for his own gratification, or that of his immediate friends or confidants. But when it comes to publishing, poetry is an art for which the life of an individual and the devotion of all his time as well as his talents is requisite ; and even then, unless his poweis are of the highest and rarest order, he must now be disappointed. Poetry, so far as good versification and mere elegance, or even beauty, is concerned, is abun- dant. A poet to succeed now must be of a far higher standard than formerly. It is no longer a question of style or words ; thoughts and things are the sole foun- dation — simple, plain, condensed language, " thoughts that breathe and words that burn" — in a word, grand intellectual power, far above that of the common race of mortals, must now be the attribute of one who as- pires to the name of poet. For myself, then, I should as soon think of publishing verses, even if I had given CAMBRIDGE— PROFESSOR SEDGWICK. them all the study and polish of which I was capable, as I should of attempting a novel system of astronomy, or endeavouring to found a new empire. " Mediocribus esse poetis Non homines, non dii, non concessere columnse," is far truer now than even in Horace's time.' As may be judged from this extract, Mr. Jukes had a high standard and a full appreciation of poetry. In- deed, it might be said that he inherited the love and admiration of our greatest poet from his father, who was a thorough Shakespearian. It was the great desire of his mother that he should become a clergyman ; and it was chiefly with this view that he was sent to Cambridge, where he matriculated at St. John's, with an exhibition from the Birmingham school in 1830. Here he did not evince such devotion to study as might have been supposed from his after career, being far more inclined to outdoor recreations than indoor work. Open-hearted and generous, with abounding health and youthful spirits, without a fa- ther's guiding and restraining hand, no wonder that, as he himself stated in his address to the Geological Sec- tion of the British Association at Cambridge in 1862, he ' displayed but a truant disposition to study, and too often hurried from the tutor's lecture-room to the river or the field,' and * that, had it not been for the teach- ing of Professor Sedgwick in geology, his time might lO LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. have been altogether wasted.' But that * old man elo- quent,' vfho was then in the height of his powers, had a most beneficial influence on the young undergraduate, and gave direction to the future course of his life. Great was his reverence and affection for his old master ; and when he presided at the Geological Section as above referred to, he avowed that his * chief claim to occupy the post was, that he was a pupil of Professor Sedgwick.' In the study of this science his talents found their fit exercise, combining as it does both indoor and outdoor work, mastery of details and broad generalisation. No illustration is now needed, or his case might furnish one, to show the great desirability of including natural science in the university course, and of allotting some honours and rewards to successful attainments therein. More than ten years after this time (in 1844) the late Professor E. Forbes speaks of natural history as being greatly discouraged at Cambridge, and regarded as * idle trifling ;' now so great an advance has been made, that the study of the works of God is being gradually placed upon a level with the study of the works of man, and the college of St. John's stands prominent in the encouragement it gives to the students of natural science. Mr. Jukes was a fair classic, and had a good know- ledge of geometry ; but neither classics nor mathema- tics had for him that powerful attraction which CHOICE OF CAREER. II ' doth the spirit raise To scorn delights and live laborious days.' He was writing from experience in the Quarterly in July 1859 when he said : ' The Book of Nature has this advantage over the stories composed by men, that it has no end, and its interest grows with every fresh perusal. To read it, we must breathe the free air and live for a time in the open field, with not only the mind amused, but with the muscles invigorated, the nerves braced, and the hlood coursing through the veins with that pleasurable glow that makes every breath we draw a pleasure in itself, while good digestion waits on appe- tite, and health on both.* Mr. Jukes had given up all intention of entering the ministry, being far too conscientious to become a member of any profession, especially one so sacred, for which he felt himself unfitted. The attitude of the clergy at that time towards geological science was little calculated to smooth any difficulties which might arise in a young man's mind. Indeed, so hostile were some members of that body to such pursuits, that, looking back through a vista of more than thirty years, and re- calling many warnings of the dangers which were sup- posed to be incident to geology, it appears as if the I creation of the world and the laws by which it is go- verned might have been attributed to some evil power, the study of whose works must necessarily be harmful. T2 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. instead of to an all-wise and beneficent Creator, who gave the earth unto the childrela of men that they might not only replenish but subdue it. There were few to speak such words as those uttered lately by Dr. Temple at Plymouth : * I have a very real conviction that all this study of science and art comes from the providence of God, and that it is in accordance with His will that we should study His works ; and that, as He has given us a spiritual revelation in His word, so also He has given us a natural revelation in His creation. . . I am convinced that all light, of whatever kind, is good and comes from God ; that all knowledge coraes from Him, and can be used in His service.' Happily the spirit of these words is fast spreading in the Church of England, and clergymen are more and more inclined to leave warnings against the study of science to the (Ecumeni- cal Councils and Encyclical Letters of the Eomisli Church. Mr. Jukes's determination to give up the profession of a clergyman was a great disappointment to his mo- ther, and unsettling to his own prospects ; and on leav- ing Cambridge it was not easy for him to decide upon his future course, there being but few openings into the world of science by which a young man could tread its paths and at the same time earn even a small in- come. But it was impossible for one so active in mind and body long to lead an idle life ; and while his future WALKING TOURS— LECTURES. 13 career remained uncertain he employed himself, and endeavoured to arouse an interest in his favourite science by delivering lectures upon it at several towns in the middle and north of England, hy which also he ex- tended his knowledge of his native country and exa- mined for himself geological phenomena, quite satisfied if he could make his lectures pay his travelling expenses. As specimens of these early lectures, the following pass- ages are taken from the first and last of a course de- livered in the Mechanics' Institution in Wolverhampton in the early part of 1837 : * To us — the insects of a day, who creep upon this mighty globe, and are not of more relative importance to it than the dust is to the surface of this floor — no- thing is accustomed to seem so firm and stable as the ground on which we tread. We walk upon the plain, and regard it as the base on which the heavens them- selves could rest ; we stand in the valley, and look up to the hills as the very emblems of eternal strength and duration; or when seated on the cliff we mock the raging of the ocean, and laugh in our security as its billows burst beneath our feet. Upon the solid bulwarks and buttresses of our globe the elements seem to waste their strength in vain. We live and die without seeing either the hills lowered or the valleys altered or filled up. * There is therefore, at first sight, something which seems absurd in the idea of supposing them to have 14 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. been once otherwise than they now are ; but the changes which aflfect them are not less certain and constant be- cause we do not regard them. Nature is not limited in her operations to the time of threescore years and ten; and though during our brief existence the amount of her work may be imperceptible, yet when multiplied by centuries, it assumes a vast and most important appear- ance. The river glides through the plain, silently and imperceptibly eating away its banks, sweeping off a patch of sand here, carrying away a little heap of mud there : trifles in themselves, but continued through the lapse of ages, we behold their result in the extensive and fertile deltas of the Nile, the Ganges, or the Mississippi — tracts of land containing hundreds, nay thousands, of square miles, where the corn-fields spread forth their abundance, or the trees of the forest wave their heads over what was once a barren waste of waters ! If we go to the cliffs upon the shore of the ocean, we shall be- hold the same vastness in the amount of seemingly petty action — in the masses of rock lying ruined at their feet, or in the sands and shoals, the gulfs and bays that attest the extent of the territories which the sea has wrested from the dominion of the land. Even the peaked summits of the granite hills themselves are not ex- empt from the universal rule of change ; the jagged ruins which lie scattered on their sides, or piled in heaps around their base, giving evident and convincing proof LECTURES AT WOLVERHAMPTON. 15 of the silent power of the rain and frost, or the de- structive force of the thunderbolt. Everything sets forth the universal truth : that the operations of nature (which means hut the action of those laws which God has impressed upon matter) are carried on upon a scale utterly beyond the attainment of our feeble faculties, and embrace periods and powers, of which the periods of our lives, or the powers of our minds and bodies, are but as dust in the balance. It behoves us, then, when entering upon the study of any of these operations, to have this truth well impressed upon our minds, and to have a due distrust of our preconceived opinions on the subject.' * We have, iu these lectures, been reading the his- tory of the earth. Human histories are but too often a tissue of falsehoods and misrepresentations, or at best are but uncertain and subject to mistake. On the con- trary, the history which we have been studying contains no falsehood and is liable to no error. If we do but make ourselves masters of its language, and interpret its lessons aright, we are sure that every word it con- tains is absolute and unqualified truth. And though some portions of it are yet obscure, though no one has yet arrived at a clear understanding of the whole ; yet many of its grand truths and some of its fundamental principles have by the labours of its expounders been i6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. clearly set before us in a manner too plain to be misun- derstood, and too certain and convincing to be rejected or despised. We find in this history the record of times whose annals we shall in vain look for elsewhere. Periods of time, compared to which that of the exist- ence of the human race is but a point ; when millions of creatures lived, moved, and had their being upon this globe, whose li\ing forms were never given to the eye of man. We can trace back the history of the world through age after age and period after period; every age and every period giving evidence of the existence of organic beings still more and more remote in the de- tails of their structure and their parts from those whicli are now our fellow-inhabitants of the earth ; till at last we arrive at times when every plant and every animal were utterly and widely distinct from ours. But through- out this lengthened series of changes unfolded to us in the pages of geology we cannot fail to be struck with the grand and consistent uniformity which reigns throughout the plan. Not a change has taken place in 1 tbd structure of the minutest animal or plant — not a single convulsion has affected the mountain masses of the globe — but it may be traced to the necessary and ap- pointed order, the fixed and immutable laws which have been stamped upon every atom of the universe. The Master-mind, if I may be allowed so to speak, is visible throughout ; working indeed by means, but yet as the BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 17 Author of those very means themselves, and having therefore given them their unchangeable and perfect character. This is indeed the very triumph of Science, when by unfolding to our view the grandeur and sub- limity of the works of Creative Power, she becomes the handmaid of Religion, and disregarding all petty dis- tinctions of sect and creed, she leads the whole human race to worship in one common temple — the temple of the world — the common God and Creator both of their temple and of themselves.' Mr. Jukes delighted in walking with knapsack and fossil-bag through wild and lonely places, and made his way chiefly on foot to the meeting of the British [ Association at Newcastle in August 1838, where he was gratified by becoming acquainted with men famous in I all branches of science. The following are extracts from letters written prior [to and during this excursion : Liverpool, June 5, 1837. My deae Mother, — I have just finished my last fecture here, but have been arranging the geological pabinet of the Royal Institution, which I shall not finish till to-morrow evening ; and then it will take me [wo days to pack up my things, and call upon several ind people here with whom I have become acquainted. 3ii Friday morning, then, I intend to start for Man- VOL. I. i8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. cliester per railway, from whence I shall proceed into Derbyshire, and walk homewards; so that you must not expect to see me before the end of next week. After having seen you transferred to Wolverhampton, I shall in all probability have an engagement with Sedgwick, and shall then set out on another lecturing tour, and have promised to be in Liverpool again in September. I have altogether spent a very pleasant time here, having had my hands full of business during the whole of it ; but am now longing for a little country, for Liverpool is almost as bad as London. I had a day on the coast with the Eev. T. Devy, a Cambridge man, and visited the remains of an ancient forest, now covered by the sea at high water, in which are large tracts of peat, with stumps of trees still standing erect from their roots, and their trunks lying prostrate ly the side of them, almost as soft as chalk, and many of them full of the shells which bore into wood and stone. J. Beete Jukes. Derby, February 6, 1838. My dear Mother, — I did not set out for this place till Saturday, and got here in a semi-frozen condition. Since then I have been hard at work writing a paper on the geology of Leicestershire, reading conchology. DERB Y—DO VEDALE. X9 making many acquaintances. I have now made all ar- rangements, published a syllabus, and shall commence next Tuesday. I am not at all sanguine as to great success here ; but I hope, at all events, to pay my ex- penses. I shall not finish till the 13th of March, after which I hope to get an engagement in Manchester ; and then shall either come back and work at the South- Stafifordshire coal-fields, or shall go on and lecture my way up to Newcastle, so as to be at the meeting of the British Association in August. J Beete Jukes. Berly, Marcli 17, 1838. My dear a., — I have just finished my course here, I and have succeeded better than I expected — have made some friends and many pleasant acquaintances. There was a grand bazaar here on the 8th and 9th; conse- quently I put off my lecture and went to Matlock, and thence across the country to the Dove, down Dove- dale. The scenery is most beautiful, and it would ex- [cessively astonish you to find such on the borders of lyour own county. One Staffordshire river, the Mani- jfold, runs in a deep valley with precipitous sides of five lor six hundred feet high, covered in some places with [wood, in others the bare rock standing out, in one of vhich there is a large and remarkable cavern called 20 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. : m M i« Thor's House, from which you look down three or four hundred feet, and see the river flashing among the woods and rocks below you. It was a splendid day when I was there ; and though loaded with fossils, we rambled without anything to eat from nine in the morn- ing to six in the evening on the banks of this valley. The next day we walked down Dovedale, which is still finer, the hills being more lofty, and the scenery, if anything, more wild and magnificent. I am going to stay a week at Mr. Strutt's of Belper, about eight miles north of Derby, where I am going to give three lectures to the Belperites. Mr. Strutt lends me his schoolroom. The Stn.tts are great cotton-spinners, and one of them is member for Derby. I stayed a day with them before, and went over their factory. It is an immense place, with twelve or fourteen hundred people at work; it took me two hours merely to see the different processes the cotton went through, from the time it came out of the bales till it was ready to make into stockings or to sew with. Immense rooms full of machinery, all going fiz, whiz, rattle, clash, hum, spin, whirl, buz, twist, twirl, clitter, clatter, all kinds of movements going in zl\ kinds of ways, from great slow-moving majestic -look- ing wheels, to little fizmagig things spinning faster than your eye could follow them ; girls cutting or joining threads, their fingers moving as if they were playing the piano. In another place I saw two men take a tree, BELPER—STR UTT'S CO TTON-MILL. 21 as much as they could lift ; by pressing it against a circular rotating saw, it lay in blocks three inches thick at my feet in a little under [piece of letter here torn off] , and then put into a machir e, when they came out as cotton reels — those little things you have in your work- box. A tree is brought in with its bark on, and in less than half an hour is all converted into little reels ready to wind cotton on ; and in less than another half-hour they may all be covered with cotton, and packed up in small parcels to be sent out. Everything, too, is done under the same roof : the machines are made, the cot- ton is cleaned and twisted, even the tickets are printed, in the different rooms of the same immense building. After leaving Belper, I shall probably go either to Chesterfield or Sheffield. J. Beete Jukes. Nottingham, May 22, 1838. Dear Aunt, — I received your last at Whatstandwell- bridge, so called because the man who built it said it was one * what would stand well.' The inn is just at one end of it — a pleasant little house, with a beautiful sitting-room and bedroom over, each hnving a bow at the end, with a window looking up and down the valley, and admitting the sound oftheDerwent as it ripples and foams and flashes over the shallows and rocks below 92 LETTERS GF J. BEETE JUKES. the bridge. The valley here is most beautiful. The river is bounded by lovely rich meadows lying in the bosom of the * many folding hills,' sometimes only two or three hundred yards across, giving just room for the road, the river and the canal (here not a disagreeable ob- ject) sometimes receding in gentle curves to the width of half a mile or so, with rocky ridges running out into the meadows. The hills are three or four hundred feet high, very various in their outline, and clothed with magnificent woods ; while at the back of these nse higher and barer eminences, covered with dark heather, or showing white masses of limestone among the light- green turf. At one place the valley narrows and makes a semicircular curve round a fine eminence, with a nar- row transverse valley at one side of it, down which a brook flows to join the Derwent. The canal here crosses the river by a fine aqueduct of one arch, and the road which runs along the outside curve of the valley is cut out of the rock on one side and walled on the other. Over this wall you look down about a hundred feet, through the trees, on to the narrow meadows, the river, and the aqueduct, the latter backed by the beautiful little transverse valley, and the whole embosomed in the most glorious woods. After a climb of about two miles from Whatstandwell and east of the river, you may get to the top of Crich Cliflf, 700 feet above the Derwent, and 1250 feet above the sea. Here you see the whole of THE DERWENT—CRICH CLIFF, 23 this lovely valley north and south, from the rocky gorge by which it passes through the massive hills around Matlock, till it widens and opens and gradually slopes down to the level country ahout Derby, with the fine old tower of All Saints just visible in the distance. In this direction the horizon is closed by the hills of Charn- wood Forest. To the east you look over the Derbyshire coal-fields, to the fine escarpment of the magnesian limestone, on the projecting promontories of which stands Bolsover Castle, Hardwick Hall, Annesley, &c.; while north and west your view is confined by high dark moors of gritstone or green hills of limestone. But the beauties of Crich Cliff are not confined to the view from its summit ; it contains things worth seeing iu its interior. This is got at in the following way : you get to a hut on the hill-side, where you denude yourself of all your own clothes, and indue those of a miner, composed of flannel and bed-ticking, the texture of which is dimly seen through the clay with which they are imbued. With a flannel cap on your head and a tallow candle in your hand (stuck in a piece of clay), you declare yourself ready for your descent. The miner accompanying you walks to a trap-door at a corner of the shed, opens it, and very deliberately disappears, and leaves you to follow him. On opening the door, you perceive it covers the mouth of a large shaft like a coal-pit, and by the help of the miner's candle below 24 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. you, and your own, you discover some bars of wood stuck in the sides of the shaft. These are arranged one under another, about a yard apart, all down the shaft ; and by resting one foot on one side and the other foot on the other side (it is a good straddle across), and holding by your right hand and so much of the other as is not employed in holding your candle, you gra- dually descend. Thirty or forty yards down you come to a landing - place, then perhaps go down a perpen- dicular ladder, then crawl through a hole and go along a level, and then to another hole with the bars of wood (called stemples), and so on for five or six hundred feet of perpendicular descent. The ladders and stem- ples are all slippery with clay, of all sizes, at irregular distances, some of them nearly worn through, some feeling loose and rotten ; so that a novice is inclined to chant Te Deum on his safe arrival at the top again. Besides, it is such hard work, that it makes your arms stiff for a week. . . . On Friday, when I went thus down the Pearson's ven- ture shaft, I went into the sough which drains the mines and comes out just above the Derwent. By leaving our candles behind, and wading a few yards in the dark, we could see daylight at the other end, at the distance of a full mile, like a large star. You could have come up the sough and joined me here in a little boat or canoe made of one hollowed tree. The lead-veins are very LEAD MINES— LIAS FOSSILS. 25 Icurious, and many of them remarkably ricli. At Crich Ithey cross each other in all directions, and have occa- sional chambers and caverns full of beautiful spar, and Bome of them full of magnificent masses of lead-ore. Alto- gether, Whatstandwell is a very interesting and de- lightful place to stay a week in. The charges are reasonable in the extreme, and coaches by the door; and I prefer it to Matlock, which, moreover, is within la walk. May 26. This letter never will go. Instead of [finishing it, I mounted on horseback at half-past six o'clock this morning, and had a most delightful ride nvith two friends to see the lias of Granby, near Belvoir Castle. It is a very out-of-the-way place, with three or four quarries ; and the men talk of having got fish and 'horses' backs' and other bones — 'horses' back- bones with all the ribs and everything ;' but as no one ever asked for them, they * only admired them them- selves, and then broke them up.' They have promised to save all they can for me. I rode a beautiful chest- nut horse, who took quite a delight in leaping the lias [ditches. I suppose Combe is beginning his course in Birm- lingham. I shall not finish mine till the 22d of June, when I don't exactly know what will become of me; but I must go again across Derbyshire, and then make [for the North, so as to lecture somewhere within reach 26 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. of Newcastle. "What would you not give for a ramble with me (in a pony-carriage) through Derbyshire ? I know some quarries in which you would spend a week. J. Beete Jukes. Nottingham, June 19, 1838. My dear a., — I finish here on Friday, but am en- gaged to conduct two geological excursions into Derby- shire next Monday and Wednesday. Then I have some work to do between here and Ashbourne, whicli will take me a fortnight ; and I want to walk througli Yorkshire and be at Newcastle by the middle of August. Now if I come to Shrewsbury, I shall be spending both time and money which might be better employed. To put against these considerations, I could be arranging a course of lectures at Shrewsbury, and I should have the pleasure of introducing you to some of the Shrop- shire hills, as I could drive you all over to Churcli Stretton, — which are certainly great inducements. I have had a very good class here — never less than two or three hundred, and frequently four or five hundred ; and I have been wandering about the country a little. I spent a day at Lincoln, and went to the top of the cathedral — a noble building, with a most commanding view ; and am going presently with a gentleman, on one of his hunters, to a spot at the junction of the three KINDERSCOUT. 87 le H counties — Notts, Derby, Leicester — where there is a I H very beautiful prospect over the three. J. Beete Jukes. Brailsford, July 28, 1838. Dear A., — * * * Since I wrote to you I have left Nottingham, and went with W., a brother of my col- lege friend, into the north of Derbyshire, and one day walked over Kinderscout, the highest hill in the county. It is a place in which dreariness becomes grand from its extent. The top of the hill is several miles across, perfectly flat, and occupied by a great black bog or peat moss three or four yards thick, furrowed in every di- rection by gullies, from the sides of which oozes some deep brown water that stagnates in their bottoms. The whole looks like a great mass of black sponge full of water, with patches of green occasionally about it to heighten its effect by contrast. The bog is bounded on every side by deep valleys, with precipitous sides fur- I rowed by dark ravines. At the north end of the hill there is a line of great crags of dark gritstone — many of the stones the size of your parlour — piled one upon another into the most fantastic shapes ; and by selecting openings through these, in which we were a little shel- tered from the fury of the wind (which was blowing a liurricane), we could look down into the valley below. 28 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. i The crags among which we stood formed the summit of a precipice of 200 or 300 feet, quite perpendicular, from the base of which a steep slope descended about 800 feet more to the little river Ashop. This steep slope was strewed over with fragments of gritstone that had fallen from the heights above. This magnificent escarpment of 1000 feet in height stretched away for several miles on either hand ; and on the opposite side of the narrow valley the eye wandered over moor after moor, rising and falling in regular undulations to the horizon. After a minute investigation, we discovered two trees that looked like little bushes in one of the ravines below ; all the rest was brown heather, black bog, or bare gritstone. We had to cross three miles of this bog, by the way, on our road to Castleton, and preciously difficult work we found it; hop, skip, and jump, or walking as if treading on eggs, with an occa- sional stick-fast that required another's assistance to extricate you. I have been staying hereabouts since Tuesday, finishing my next paper for the Analyst. I mean next week to walk through the north of Stafibrd- shire into Cheshire, and eventually get to Liverpool, and so on by sea to Carlisle, and by railway to New- castle, where the British Association meet on August 20. I am becoming quite a well-known character in Derbyshire ; not a place do I go to, but I meet some one that knows me, by report at least, if not by sight ; NE WCASTLE— ALLENDALE. 29 and I have a general invitation to people's houses in all parts of the country, some of which I accept when they least expect it. J. Beete Jukes. Seaham Harbour, Durham, August 30, 1838. My dear a., — As it is probable you may expect to see me about this time, I write to tell you that in all probability I shall be a month longer, as I am going to see a friend at Darlington, and shall perhaps lecture [there. We have had a glorious week at Newcastle, I where Sedgwick, Buckland, Lyell, Phillips, Murchison, 1 k. &c. all met. I was on the committee of the Geo- I logical Section, and read a short paper of very little in- j terest ; but it was merely by way of introducing myself. I send you above a sketch of one of the new streets ; the new part of the town is in the middle of the old, and it looks like a city of palaces surrounded by hovels. The street above is finer than any in or out of London. It is all a private speculation of one man, who builds a palace in a few weeks, or, if necessary, can change it into a theatre or a market by a wave of his hand. I bot acquainted with Dr. Pye Smith, and others known to fame. I spent Monday and Tuesday in Allendale, looking at Mr. Beaumont's lead-mines ; and this morn- 30 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ing walked here from Shields. The weather was de- lightful, and my path principally lay on a fine sandy beach, with bold projecting and overhanging cliffs of magnesian limestone on the one hand, and the foaming waves of the German Ocean, like sea-horses with white manes chasing one another to shore, on the other. At one point, called Marsden Rocks, pillars, towers, and pinnacles of limestone stand out in the sea, which has cut them off from the land ; and perpendicular ridges of rock occasionally run out into it, with narrow bays and creeks full of immense masses that have fallen from the cliffs above. Great caverns are scooped out in the cliffs, and sometimes two or three of these join, and leave merely natural pillars to support the rocks above. There is one portion of the cliffs that once existed far out, where the sea now is about two or three hundred yards beyond the present shore. It is about a hundred feet high, and is worn into caverns all round its base ; about the centre the sea has breached a magnificent arch thirty or forty feet high right through. When I was there it was nearly high tide, and a fine breeze blowing right upon the land. The waves came in quick successive lines of long rolling swell, each of which as it approached the shore rose higher and higher, till the upper part at length curled over, and the whole was shivered, as it were, into a magnificent burst of foam, that surged over the rocks, dashed clouds of spray up COAST OF DURHAM— SEAHAM. 31 into the air, and at last spent itself in spreading sheets of dazzling white foam on the level sands. The rock with the arch in it looked as if it lay in a sea of boiling milk; and every now and then a strong wave would ilash into the arch, and fill it up to its very top with foam and spray ; then, as it fell, you saw the green ocean beyond, with a ship or two in the distance ; so that the arch looked like a frame to a fairy picture, I where even motion was delineated. I sat on a project- ing rock, watching this scene for more than an hour, where I could see the coast and the surf for miles on either hand, and an occasional splash of spray came up into my face, with the sun overhead, and the whole sea studded with white sails. I just went in and dined at Sunderland, and continued my walk along the shore till dusk, when I stopped here, which is a new bathing [village. The edge of the cliff is about eighty yards Ifrom the door ; and as I sit here the dull heavy roar of Ithe surf sounds on the ear with a regular rise and fall eat, though monotonous, is not wearisome, for it is |tlie sound of motion and of mighty power. It is im- |)ossible to mistake any other noise for the sound of the J. Beete Jukes. It was about this period of his life that Mr. Jukes aade himself acquainted with practical surveying, and 32 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. li .IFMIII joined a gentleman, who was working with a staff of assistants, in the neighbourhood of Leicester, lie af- terwards wrote for the Analyst a sketch of the geology of Leicestershire and Derbyshire. He also surveyed geologically the district of Charnwood Forest, the re- sults of which were published in a separate memoir annexed to the history of that forest by Mr. T. R. Potter. By these means he rendered himself competent to accept the post of Geological Surveyor of Newfound- land, which was offered to him in 1839. His life had for the few preceding years been too desultory, and lie gladly availed himself of the opportunity thus afforded him of accomplishing more definite work. The only drawback to his pleasure in being thus nabled to see more of the world, arose from his mothei pain at the parting, her dread of the dangers she thout^n , he would encounter, and the loneliness of the life he would lead; but he assured her that he was not likely to undergo any great hardships, and felt no misgiving as to Ms health and strength being equal to the undertaking. She was too unselfish in her love to throw any impedi- ment in his way. The following letter was written by Mr. Jukes whilst in London preparing for his Newfoundland ex- pedition, and is noteworthy for its reference to the dawn of photography, and the neglect with which the antici- patory discoveries of Niepce were treated : INVENTION OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 33 14 Oecil-8treet, Strand, March 14, 1839. My dear Aunt, — Sedgwick has just taken tea with me, antl I have been with him to the Royal Society to- night, where, among other things, I heard a notice from Sir J. Herschel read on the new process of drawing by sun-light, or, as he calls it, photography. A book of specimens was exhibited, in which he had caused several prints to copy themselves. These were mostly i dull brown, and looked something like old sepia drawings. He said his experiments were at present imperfect, and he showed these merely as first attempts. The efiiect in some was very good. Afterwards Professor Wheat- stone showed Sedgwick and myself some specimens of T\hat had been done by Niepce fourteen years ago and more. Niepce was then in London, and offered a paper to the Royal Society, with specimens ; which, as the process was kept secret, they could not entertain. After many efforts to bring it into notice, he at length de- sisted. His views are on metal, apparently slabs of lead. One view, which was reduced in the process from an engraving of two feet to one of six inches, is beauti- ful, like a very highly finished and elaborate pencil drawing. Another, the first ever taken by the camera from his chamber, was very plain and distinct, in a similar style; something like a lead-pencil drawing, where the pencil has afterwards been rubbed to produce a soft effect. But the meet remarkable thing is, that he 34 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. hit upon a process of making the light continually act npon the same lines, so that at length it burnt into the metai, as it were, and etched the picture, the impression from which had all the character of a very spirited etching. The neglect and, apparently, con- tempt with which Niepce was treated at the time is wonderful. I have promised to stay over the next meeting at the Geological Society, as Lyell has a paper on some curious facts concerning North America to read then. I have seen Owen once or twice, and promised to collect some hcasU for him. J. Beete Jukes. NEWFOUNDLAND SURVEY. 1839-1842. NE\1 Explanator land — I master- cations c Bays an( peditions Jolin's — for and tlie bran naturalis: In choosing to give thoi of the writ domestic li sent a fullej both strong ate for otho; some letters \ Her object } i possible of a NEWFOUNDLAND SURVEY. 1839-1842. Explanatory notes — Grant by House of Assembly — Newfound- land — Nature of tlie country and work — Mr. Jukes as a master — Letter of an attached servant — Duties and qualifi- cations of a geological surveyor — Letters at sea — St. John's — Bays and creeks visited during coasting voyages — Inland ex- peditions — Professor Stiiwitz — Dr. Stabb — Lectui'es at St. John's — Expedition to the ice — Seal-catching — Preparations for and return to England — "Wolverhampton — Address to the branch of Dudley Geological Society — Appointment as naturahst to the expedition for surveying Torres Straits. In choosing letters for publication, the desire has been to give those which most clearly bring out the character of the writer without intruding upon the privacy of domestic life. When, however, they seemed to pre- sent a fuller view of a nature that was at the same time both strong and tender — careless of self, yet consider- ate for others — the editor has not shrunk from inserting some letters which she might otherwise have withheld. Her object has been to convey as complete a picture as possible of a man ' Who battled for the true, the just ;' P 'Hi who sought the pure gold of wisdom and knowledge for its own sake, without the alloy of power and wealth, which is so generally needed to make that gold pass current among us. Mr. Jukes sailed for Newfoundland in April 1839; and his letters form a complete series, by means of which we can accompany him through the work of his first year. Soon after his arrival in St. John's, he made several short excursions in the neighhoiTrhood, one es- pecially to Harbour Grace, where it was reported that coal had been found. These journeys showed him the impracticable nature of the interior, and the impossi- bility of obtaining any knowledge of the structure of the island, by traversing the woods and marshes with which it abounded. He therefore requested to be furnished with a small coasting vessel, in order that he might examine the cliffs in detail ; and to enable him to follow this plan, the original grant of 350Z. was increased to 600L During the second summer of the survey, his correspondence was not so full, as he had then no ves- sel of his own in which to spend any leisure he could command, but was obliged to live in open boats, or to encamp in the woods with his men. The House of Assembly was unfortunately seized with a fit of short- sighted economy, and refused to continue the grant which had been voted the preceding year. The services which were being rendered in so efficient and yet inex- SURVEY ECONOMICS. 39 pensive a manner do not appear to have been under- stood or appreciated, except by the governor (Captain Prescott), the surveyor-general, and some few of the l)etter-informed among the members, by whose stren- uous efforts a second grant was at length obtained. This was, however, on too small a scale to allow of his hiring a vessel, the want of which subjected him. to great hardship and much inconvenience. He neverthe- less performed his work with just the same energy and cheerfulness as if he had been receiving adequate com- pensation. He thus notices an incident which had amused him, and which shows the view taken by some of the ' honourable members' of the work of the survey : 'After the vote was passed, a member called on me privately, to recommend me not to take a vessel, since I would then make as much money out of this grant as out of the former one; as if my object had been to make money rather than a geological survey.' As the hire of the vessel, and its attendant expenses for the first year's survey, amounted to more than 400Z., it may readily be supposed that Mr. Jukes was more likely to have lost than gained, in a pecuniary point of view, especially as it was quite contrary to his disposition ever to do any- ' tiling on a small or economical scale. Throughout this survey, lie shared in all the labour and lived on the I same fare as the men who accompanied him, and who Ijecame much attached to him. A letter from one of 40 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. them, named Simon Grant, bears such a simple testi- mony to the power Mr. Jukes possessed of winning the confidence and affection of those who worked with him, that no better proof could be given than the letter itself, which was received during his subsequent absence in Australia, and is here given in its own orthographical integrity : London June 1845 Dear mam — I take this opportunity of writing to you heaping you and family are in good health you will be pleased to let me know when you expect Mr Dukes home and how he is I am most anxious to heer finding him the kindest of masters whilst serving him in New- foundland its nearly twelve months since I heard from him in a letter to his friend Dr Stab pleas to answer this note as soone as possible as I am leaving London on Monday next. Direct to the Stoord on bord of the barque Margaret Daviss wharf toley street I remain your obbedient sevt Simon Grant This power of attracting those who served him was gained by very simple means. It was a part of his creed, that all men had more good than evil in them, and that to the better part of their nature an appeal could always be made ; and he ever acted on this belief, giving credit for truth and honesty, the trust that be- gets trust, and draws out the latent sparks of good feeling and good faith, which a different mode of treat- MASTERS AND SERVANTS. 41 ment so frequently smothers and hides. Added to this charity which ' hopeth all things,' there was that self- possession and courage in danger, and that energy and perseverance in difficulty, which never failed to inspire with confidence those who depended on his leadership. In order to judge of the difficulty of this survey, it will be well to give an extract from his report : ' A geological surveyor, in entering upon a country with which he has no previous acquaintance, has a task of some difficulty, and often of great perplexity. He must make himself acquainted with the characters of the various beds constituting the series of stratified rocks of which the country is formed. He must dis- cover the natural order of this series, and ascertain what are the general characters which are common to certain large portions of it, in order to divide it into groups or formations. He has to accustom his eye to these characters, in order to detect them where they may be obscure ; and many other little points of detail must be worked out before he is thoroughly qualified to euter on his task of describing the solid geometry of tlie district. For the more perfect fulfilment of this, too, it is necessary that the country should be acces- sible in every direction ; that the surface should not be too much covered up by vegetable soil, or hidden by a thick growth of wood ; and that the clifi's by the sea- shore, the natural sections exhibited in the beds of mw 42 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. rivers or the banks which enclose them, and the ap- pearances on the hill-sides, or, in their absence, artifi- cial cuttings, sinkings, or borings, should be attainable. The very first requisite is, that a good map of the country should be placed in his hands, showing the general ranges and heights of the hills, and the courses of tiie rivers and valleys ; and that this map should he on a sufficiently large scale to enable him to trace his daily routes, and mark down the phenomena observed. Furnished with this knowledge and these materials, it is the business of the geological surveyor to trace on the map the surface boundaries between the igneous and aqueous rocks, as also between the different for- mations or subdivisions of the latter. In doing this, he must also collect such information from the con- tinued observation of the dip, strike, faults, veins, and other phenomena, as shall enable him to show the posi- tions of the rocks below the surface, to as great a deptli as he is able. This is done by means of sections, or supposed perpendicular cuttings through the earth in various directions, by which its internal structure may be best exposed. By means of these coloured maps and sections, a cabinet of specimens, and written descrip- tions, the geologist is enabled to convey an intelligible idea of the physical structure of the country, and the qualities and properties of the materials cf which it is composed. ... DUTIES OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEYORS. 43 'Nor must it be forgotten by the geological sur- veyor that, while he is bound by every means in his power to discover and lay open the natural resources of the country under examination for what are commonly called practical purposes, he must not neglect the theo- retical portion of the science of geology. A knowledge of the mode of formation of the rocks, and the cause of their being placed in their present positions, will con- stantly help him in difficult or obscure points, and will more especially be of the greatest possible assistance to him in mining or other operations in which direct observation is impracticable. He is bound, therefore, I to store up every fact, and even every speculation that may arise in his mind from the observation of fact, I hearing on theoretical geology, and to contribute, as far as he is able, to the great mass of knowledge which is gradually working out for us the history of the for- |mation of the present crust of the globe. * Those who are acquainted with the island of New- I foundland will be best able to appreciate the difficulty of applying the general princij)les and rules laid down in the foregoing observations to its particular case. The interior being trackless, uninhabited, and obscured hy woods and morasses, the coast affords the only means of continued observation. Here, though the clififs are bold, they are frequently inaccessible, and often either too perpendicular, or two well guarded by surf to render 44 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ATU. II : I I, N landing practicable. Not only is there no map of the interior, but no general knowledge of it exists. No guide can be found who knows more of the country than a few miles round his own dwelling, or a par- ticular path to a neighbouring settlement. Much time was therefore necessarily devoted to gathering materials for a rough map, and acquiring some information on the physical geography of the country ; and the present report can only be looked on, as a collection of so much preliminary information as would have been of use in the commencing a detailed survey, had the nature of the country rendered such an undertaking advisable.' Long. 32°, lat. 48° 52', Aj)nl 26, 1839. My dear Mother, — To relieve a little the mono- tony of sea life, I think of commencing here a small journal of my proceedings. [After giving particulars of the first few days at sea,] Monday 22. Stiff S.W. breeze, but cleared up in the evening. The sea, running in great ridges, left us every j now and then buried, as it were, in a valley of water; and then our good ship, mounting the back of the wave, dashed the crest of it into clouds of glittering spray, washing the decks and sails, and giving us a view ofj the wide waste of waters, green flecked with white,] which was again lost to sight and hidden by the masses of water alon hollow. Porpi strange sea-bi while now an( dash against t] and treat us wi on hy the rig^ tlie slightest ps and captain bei TCre mingled w lieave-yeo' of tl and the hoarse i jpictureof the Aj ^ay 4. Str, |tej. While di 'Uner, the cry ( jFog very thick. K about, hardlj jiands to tack the p of a great fi pad it been night ^iiich would certa f«niaged the vessc ^"'ng thus falJei |assengers' watch May 8, High-s pt. At length ATLANTIC— GALE AND ICE-FIELDS. 45 of water alongside as we descended into the opposite hollow. Porpoises were showing their brown backs, and strange sea-birds called * boatswains' wheeled about us, while now and then a bigger wave than usual would (lash against the sides of the vessel as she heeled over, and treat us with an unexpected shower-bath as we held on by the rigging. Our admiration was unmixed by the slightest particle of fear, our confidence in the ship and captain being perfect; and the laugh and the joke were mingled with the word of command, and the ' yeo- heave-yeo' of the seamen, the whistling of the wind, the hoarse sound and dash of the sea, ^here's a j picture of the Atlantic after a gale, as near as I can go. May 4. Strong breeze from W.S.W., thick and I foggy. While drinking our first glass of port-wine after 1 linner, the cry of * ice ahead' brought us all on deck. Fog very -thick. Many pieces of jagged white ice whirl- ing about, hardly to be distinguished from foam. All lands to tack the ship. Just as we got her about, the leige of a great field of ice just visible through the fog. iHad it been night, we should have gone plump into it, rhich would certainly have delayed us, and might have |lamaged the vessel. Stood to S.E., away from ice, and laving thus fallen in with it, and weather moderate, assengers' watch dispensed with. . . . "^ay 8, High-street, St. John's, Newfoundland : 9 at kht. At length we are here, with some prospect of W'l' 46 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. peace and quietness, a broad bed, and a steady floor. Coast fine, bold, and picturesque; bare red rocks, in form something like Great Orme's Head, beds dipping at a great angle, and cliffs rising to six or eight hundred feet straight from the sea, with Jeep water close at the foot of them, and no beach whatever. H. and I stayed and packed our things till eleven, when Mr. J. Stuart, one of the partners of the house to whom the vessel belongs, came out for us in a boat, took us to his house, lunched us, walked us over the town, introduced us to at least fifty people, brought us to these lodgings, which H. and I have taken together, and which are very comfortable. He then went with us up the high hill on S. side the harbour, a pretty stifi" climb over rocks of red grit and quartzose conglomerate, covered with short spruce trees (the interior looks wild and barren, like parts of Wales and Scotland), gave us a good din- ner and tea, got our baggage out of the vessel, and sent it up hc"'^ in a cart, and has now taken H. to the theatre whil' 1 write this; thus doing the honours of the island pri"ie style. Our arrival has caused quite a sensa- . walked about in a five days' beard, and old hat, loth dress ; H. — a fine fellow, exactly six feet five inches in his stockings, and well-made withal — clean, and in the h'cfhest style of London fashion. In one hour it was over the town that I was come to look for gold m: 3 ; but H. puzzled them amazingly, since RECEPTION AT ST. JOHN'S. 47 they could not think in what he could possibly trade. I go to call on the governor to-morrow ; but may perhaps send oif this letter before, as a vessel is about to sail for Portugal. The next vessel for England is in about ten (lays, by which I shall also write. I find there is no regular post-office here, as letters go round by Halifax. . . . May 11. The vessel by which I intended to send this sailed while I was writing it. I have met with a veiy kind and friendly reception, both from the go- vernor and the colonial secretary, Mr. Crowdy. The governor took me all over his establishment, and after an hour's conversation, he, his little boy, Mr. Crowdy, and myself mounted and rode six or seven miles into I the interior, to visit the farm of a Captain Pearl, which 1 the owner confidently affirmed to contain coal. Nothing I was visible except slate-rocks in the neighbourhood ; some man who lived near, and who had been a I miner, pointed out to the captain two small grass-co- hered hills as the receptacle of coal. We did not see this man, but the governor sent an order to him to be [at Government House this morning at ten o'clock, and Ihe will send him to me. His excellency invited me Itodine with him, which I was obliged to decline, as H. Isnd I had invited the captain of the Diana to dine with lis, upon which he fixed to-day, and said he would ask po or three of the most scientific people to meet me. |He says he expects a man-of-war shortly, when he shall ^:il'^' 48 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. get her to take me round to St. George's Bay, on the W. side of the island, where there is known to be coal. May 15. I went with the man mentioned above to the summit of Branscombe Hill, about seven miles, and found its height above the harbour to be nine hundred feet. It is clothed with wood and brushwood, making its ascent, joined with the bogs, very toilsome. In the evening I dined at Government House, with Colonel Saul the commandant, Mr. Crowdy the colonial secre- tary, Mr. Noad the surveyor-general, Mr. Browne the chief-justice, Drs. C. and S., and their ladies. On Sun- day the most remarkable occurrence was a fire, which broke out about six in the evening, in the centre of the town, and raged with the greatest violence till three or four houses were consumed ; and it was only got under by great exertions, and in consequence of the little wind, and the occurrence of a passage separating the burning houses from the next row. Where everything around is dry wood, the appearance of a fire is terrific, and the heat, even at thirty or forty yards off, was quite intense ; all the neighbouring houses smoked like a fur- nace when the engines played on them. The military and fire-companies were soon in attendance, but tlie people generally seemed very stupid and apathetic. May 13. Eode with the governor and Mr. Noatl to Portugal Cove, a small harbour on Conception Bay, about ten miles off. Crossed high bleak moors, ami PORTUGAL COVE AND QUIDDY VIDDY. 49 woods of spruce, firs, and birch, containing many beauti- ful lakes, one in particular called Windsor or Twenty- mile Pond, four or five miles long, and from half to a mile broad. The last two miles descended into a most lovely and romantic little valley, full of woods, rocks, and waterfalls, and bounded by fine peaked and serrated hills, and opening out upon the sea by Conception Bay, with a beautiful island called Bell Island a few miles off right opposite, backed by the distant hills on the other side of the bay, whose sides and summits were still white with snow. One of the most beautiful scenes I ever saw. The rocks are various, almost all schistose, with some granwacke and conglomerate, and the coast of the boldest and most precipitous description, not a trace of sand or mud, and the sea water as clear as the air above it. May 14. Walked with the governor and Mr. Noad to Quiddy Viddy Pond — a very pretty little lake two miles hence, out of which a small stream runs into a little cove hidden among the bare lofty rocks, through which there is a passage just wide enough for boats into the sea. This passage they are now widening by blasting the rocks. Found a basaltic dyke running from top of the cove to St. John's. ... I have had an offer from the Hon. , Esq., member of the House of Assembly, to act as my paid servant, carry my kettle, and make my fire, on my expeditions into the interior. B iMMiMiirirflUBiWiM 50 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Tins may astonish you, but he is a hunter and fisher- man, sent by one of the outposts. The country, even within ten miles of St. John's, is still absolutely un- traversed, except by new roads in one or two directions, and in a complete state of wild nature, full of impene- trable woods and almost impassable morasses. The view, however, from Branscombe Hill is really magnifi- cent, and if the country is reclaimed, it will be a very fine one ; hill, wood, and water are most abundant . May 18. I believe a vessel called the Queen sails this morning for London, so I have risen early to finish my letters. Yesterday was one of the Liost beautiful days I ever saw. I ascended the south side hill, and found it burning hot, but the air as clear as crystal. I could see for many miles homeward over the blue At- lantic, whose colour was certainly most lovely, dotted here and there with white sails. I found the height of the hill to be 790 feet above the sea. The House of Assembly opened in the middle of the day, and salutes were being fired, and drums, &c. beaten, as I looked down upon the assemblage of wooden boxes which constitute the town. It was curious to see the little jet of flame and pufi" of smoke from the cannon, and then wait half a minute before the silence around me was broken by the distant report booming up the hill. H. and I dined with the governor last night, and his excellency said, if I had attended the opening of the COUNTRY ABOUT ST. JOHN'S. SI House, I should have heard vaj^el^jpuffed. ... On Mon- day I start for a short tour round Cape St. Francis, and the week following steer for the south round to Placentia Bay. This latter excursion may take me two or three weeks. Having come to the end of my two sheets, I now can only wish that you may all be in as good health and spirits as I am. — Yours ever, though distant now, J. Beete Jukes. St. John's, Newfoundland, June 11, 1839. My dear mother, Amelia, grandmother, aunts and uncles, as also cousins, individually and collectively, and all other my friends and relatives, and to whomsoever these presents may come, be it known that in me, J. Beete Jukes, you behold not only the ' Geological Surveyor of the Province of Newfoundland,' but ' Commander of the ketch Beaufort, forty-tons burden ; Garden, Master.* But let us do everything in order. I believe I dispatched my former letter with about twelve others on May 16. On May 18 I rode with the governor and Mr. Noad, suiTeyor-general, to Logic Bay, a small indentation of coast, rocks, cliffs, and surf, very bold and romantic ; thence to Torbay, a very fine bay indeed, something more EngHsh about it, b"t still very bold precipitous cliffs; the roads are mere tracks marked on the rocks and stones by frequent passing, but cut through the woods. On my 52 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. return I engaged a man of the name of Kelly for the summer, for 28Z. and his keep (wages are very high here). On May 20 Dr. Stabb and I, with Kelly, started on foot with knapsack, barometer, rifle, &c. Walked to Torbay, took a boat and examined the cliffs nine miles, then dined on tea, eggs, and bread-and-butter, and walked, partly on coast and partly through woods of firs, over a very rugged road to Flat Rock, four miles. Thence right through the thick woods, seven miles, to Pouche Cove ; this path was just opened, the stumps were not cleared, and small poles merely laid down in the softest places, by help of which, and roots of trees, you kept from sinking ; some small trees laid side by side helped us to cross the rivers. In one part the wood had been burnt, and the black ruins rose around us, with ashes scattered on every side, worse than Bil- Bton. The lakes numerous ; from one near the track a fine trout stream sprung, and rushed over the rocks and stones through the woods towards the sea. Sat for some time on the rude stumps in Canadian solitude- no sound but the river ; no sight but it, the lakes, and the pathless impenetrable woods. At Pouche Cove at night, tea and eggs again. No inns, but the best house in the place receives strangers. May 21. Stabb returned; Kelly and I walked througli woods to Biskia Cove at Cape St. Francis, twenty-four miles north of St. John's. Kelly is a Newfoundland HUNGER ALLAYED BY SMOKING. 53 Irishman. Passing the small schoolhouse at Pouche Cove, he remarked very gravely, 'What a fine thing it is, sir, to have them schoolmasthers erected in every part of the island !' Cape St. Francis wild in the ex- treme; a fisherman gave us tea, eggs, and fish for dinner. We then boated back to Pouche Cove, and set oflT immedi- ately on our yesterday's track; but before I reached Flat Rock, I felt so intolerably faint from hunger, that the first house I came to I went in, got a quart of milk, and then gorged on hard {very hard) biscuit and red herrings, imd the constant beverage tea. Pieached Torbay after (lark, and got a comfortable bed in a private room. May 22. Rose at four, and returned to St. John's to breakfast ; very glad to get some meat ; enjoyed a meat dinner at night, and found my English stomach, in fact, very inconvenient when no meat was to be had to eat, and nothing to drink but tea or water. Found to- bacco to be in these circumstances an absolute necessary, and being unprovided with either that or cigars, for I had uot smoked for a long time, borrowed a dirty little pipe and strong tobacco of a fisherman in Torbay, and found it quite a luxury, as it allayed the gnawing of the stomach. May 23, Rain and fog; cleared in the afternoon, and Kelly and I started south for Petty Harbour. On the road, Kelly's tongue running as usual, asked me about my family and my mother, whether I had written to her. On my telling him I had, * I'll warrant the ould iti^^Jia££i^te«,!.^w^^^^^ 54 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. woman would be mighty glad to hear you were safe landed, sir ; she'd think no harum could happen to ye afther that.' The walk was a fine one, over bare broad eminences full of beautiful little tarns, winding among the rocks and woods. On approaching the sea you suddenly drop down about 500 feet, by a winding road into a little narrow creek, running in among the rocky hills. Eound this the houses of the village called Petty Harbour are built. Here we got decent accommodation, though Kelly slept by the kitchen-fire. May 24. Breakfast on tea and eggs, and at six started in a boat with four stout hands down the coast to Shoal Bay (nine miles). Coast equally bold in places as towards the north, but more bare and barren-looking. In Shoal Bay found the vestiges of the old copper-mine worked in 1750, and got some specimens of carbonate and sulphuret of copper. After staying an hour or two of a most lovely morning, returned to Petty Harbour just time enough before the breeze arose ; then walked back to St. John's, and in the evening attended Mrs. Prescott's ' At home' on the Queen's birthday. On May 29 started in a boat to Bell Island, landed and measured clifi", found it gritstone and shale. Then pulled right round it in a thick fog and a breeze of wind. Clifl's high and unbroken precipices. As I sat in the stern of the little boat dancing on the waves, it was very fine to see headland after headland looming liip liilil •IP 'lull ■■ws^^^T-.r" •. .-rrs. HIRING AND FITTING-UP KETCH. 55 through the fog, and then frowning on us as ^\ >* passed its foot, and gradually fading again into the mist as we proceeded. The island is nine miles long, and four across : one great rock called the Bell, like Marsden rocks on the coast of Durham. Next day went across Conception Bay in a small packet-boat to Harbour Grace (twenty-one miles) ; heard of coal being found there, but all slate. A very pretty little town, with neat stone church, all like England. The harbour magnificent ; eight miles long, three quarters of a mile across. Walked over a hill called Peak of Teneriflfe (560 feet) to a beautiful lake called Lady's Pond. The only inn in Newfoundland is at Harbour Grace, pretty comfortable. . . . Jmu 5 (St. John's). Made some arrangements about hiring a craft, as Dr. Carson (speaker of House of Assembly) told me they had raised the sum voted to 60OL to enable me to do so. June 7. Received tenders for vessel, and accepted Garden, Master of Beaufort, a ketch of forty tons (built as a cutter by Captain Bayfield for surveying service), lie to find four men and a boy, a good boat, &c., provi- visious for himself and crew and everything complete, to fit up cabin for me, &c., for 55Z. per month. Since tlien I have been engaged in selecting men, charts, provisions, stores, &c., till I am bothered to death. The vessel is being cleaned, fitted up, and painted, and will 56 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. be ready for sea to-morrow morning. It will take me two days to get my own things on board, so I hoist my flag (a red pennant with a black hammer) on Saturday morning. . . . My first trip will be to the northward, round Conception and Trinity Bays ; this, I expect, will oc- cupy a fortnight or three weeks. I shall then return to St. John's, and start again for the S. and W., and run along to St. George's Bay. This will occupy me the remainder of the summer till the latter end of October, after which it would be dangerous to stay out on coast- ing service. I am victualled with a bag of flour, ditto biscuit, ditto potatoes, ditto pork, eggs, tea, cofiee, &c., a case of hock at thirty shillings per dozen, and other wines, spirits, &c., for my own stock. Then fish is to be had at a moment's warning, ducks ditto for the shooting ; and in the season curlew, plover, ptarmigan, deer, &c. The account of my first trip you shall have by the first opportunity. . . . Everybody says I shall have a very pleasant trip during the summer, barring the mosquitoes when I land, the receipt for which is to smear yourself over with tar and oil. Having now filled my sheet, I can only say how glad I shall be to see you all again and give you a more particular account of my adventures than these few hints, and that I shall often think of you on the seas, or hills, or lakes of Newfound- land ; and with kind love to all, you must believe me ever your affectionate Beete. ilil FIRST TRIP IN THE BEAUFORT. 57 Middle of Conception Bay, Newfoundland, June 17, 1839. I sent off a despatch last Thursday, but begin anc ther now, that I may fill it up at qitatrcs d'heures. On June 15, at eleven o'clock at night, having got all my luggage, books, instruments, guns, &c. stowed away in the cabin of the Beaufort, two friends took a glass of grog and a cigar with me, and left me to my repose in my berth. June 16. Awoke by noise on deck. My captain hav- ing been in search of one of the crew all night, had just caught him drunk in the street, and he was being brought on board. Gave orders for sailing as soon as possible ; and at half-past eight we tripped our anchor, hoisted the topsail, and glided down the harbour with a gentle breeze, a red pennant flying at mast-head, and union-jack at peak, being on government service. Wind (lied away, and obliged to tow through the magnificent pass of the ' Narrows,' the entrance to the harbour being a mere crevice in the great sea-wall of that part of the island. ... At eleven at night, a red streak of sunset just visible in the west, with a beautiful arch of aurora over it, from which fine streamers of flickering yellow light shot up into the stars. The young moon, and Venus, clear and lovely, and all the host of heaven, looking on the broad expanse of the bay, and the fine shores and hills that bound it. . . . 58 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. \ June 20. Lovely morning, with a good stiff breeze from W.S.W. ; went round Spaniard's Bay, walked over neck of land to Bay Koberts, examined singular brick- red slate witli white stripes, then stood out again, and are now spanking away across mouth of next harbour, called Port -au- Grave. The sea a beautiful blue, sky perfectly clear, and a fresh breeze making our ship jump across the waves ; while every imaginable shape of rock, bay, and headland, with mountain-like hills, surround us on one side ; and on the other the blue ridge of Cape St. Francis and the beautiful cliffs of Bell Isle encircle us at from ten to fifteen miles. To the north and north- east only is there clear sea ; all the rest is land as beau- tiful in its aspect as it is wild, uncultivated, and difficult of access when upon it. What should you think of me in a check shirt, sealskin cap, and Indian boots coming up to my knee, over some brown velveteen trousers, pacing the deck, a sea-geologist ! . , . June 25. Mr. Green, surveyor, came and break- fasted with me ; and at seven we set out in boat for head of next bay, called Collier's ; thence struck into woods for some fine three-peaked hills that looked close by. In three hours and a half we arrived at the foot of them, having travelled about that number of miles through marshes, up brooks, but above all, througli trees, on trees, under trees, and among trees. We sometimes were obliged to travel like squirrels, from ilil TRAVELLING DIFF/CULTIES INLAND. 59 one fallen tree to another, for thirty or forty yards, it not being possible to force our way down to the ground for branches and fallen trunks ; and a tree having hap- pened to fall in the direction we were going was a grand thing, as we could walk along its trunk. Climb- ing, creeping, crawling, twisting, pushing, pulling, tug- ging, tearing, — every possible method of progression except flying, swimming, or riding. Then the earth, covered with boulders and great rocks, piled with moss up to your knees, concealing slippery stones, deep holes, sharp stakes, &c. &c. ; and, to crown all, the mosqiiitocs, Mr. Green's face and neck and ears were one mass of trickling blood; you literally would have thought he liad been fired at with small shot. He was the worst off; but even now (July 1) I am covered with pustules from bites received that day. But when, after our climb, we arrived at the top of the hills, our toils were amply repaid. The whole of Conception Bay stretched at our feet on one side ; while, on the other, hill, dale, valley, and lake stretched to the blue hills that bounded tlie view on every side, in every possible variety of shape. Walked back again in two hours, being down hill ; and I finding a wood path, got back to our boat by dark, and [got some molasses tea in a * tilt.' Molasses tea is tea and molasses hoiled together in a tea-kettle ; and a tilt is a temporary wooden hut, made of poles stuck in the ground. . . 6o LETTERS OF J, BEETE JUKES. July 1. Ran down along tho coast, landing at one place where Indians used to come for red ochre. In afternoon put into a place called Northern Bay for shelter, as it seemed likely to blow hard. Thunder in evening. "Walked about on sea-shore. Hundreds and thousands of beautiful little fish called * capelin,' all green and silver and burnished red, rolled in by tide, so that the beach is covered with them, every wave seem- ing but a mass of fish. They are about eight inches long, and most delicate eating, and we catch them by simply picking them up alive on the shore. . . . June 5. Beat up as far as Buenaventura Head, and anchored in harbour close by. Saw whales chasing the capelin in the bays, blowing up their spouts of water into the air, and heaving their huge tails up and down, making the seas foam under them. Saw a thrasher— that is, some cetaceous animal, which attacks the great whale above, while the sword-fish is said to be thrusting him below. The thrasher kept his tail out of the water — and a huge one it was — and lashed it backwards and forwards, making the waves boil. The men told me the whale is sometimes so hard bestead as to be heard to roar like thunder at the distance of three miles. July 8. Fitted out the boat with provisions, and I took two men in her, leaving the captain with two more to return and take the vessel round to meet us at Hick- CAMP IN THE WOODS-^MOSQUITOES. 6i man's Harbour. We rowed away, landing occasionally. . . In the evening, seeing no signs of the vessel, we pro- ceeded; but night coming on, we put into a small cove, where was a brook, a beach, and mosquitoes. We set to work to cut and collect wood, made a fire, set our kettle to boil, then collected moss and sods to put on the fire and make a smoke, by which we got rid of some of the mosquitoes. Then we cut a lot of branches of young fir for a bed, cleared away all the big stones, aud strewed the branches on the shingle. Over these we spread one sail, and kept another for coverlid. We then had tea and supper all in one, smoked our pipes, took our grog, wrapped our faces in our handkerchiefs. I rolled myself in my cloak, and put my knapsack for II pillow. The men crept under the sail, and we were doon snoring. During the night, I was awoke twice by lieavy rain on our fire, and clapped on another tree or iwo; but otherwise slept soundly. July 6. Woke at six, got up, bathed in the sea — water very cold, but so clear (as it is ail round the island) tliat I could see lots of lobsters, crabs, fish, sea-weed, zoophytes, and hundreds of green echini, below fifteen 1 or twenty feet of water as plain as in air. . . . We I pulled to examine some islands, then rowed along the coast to the opposite headland; and when the fog cleared, saw our ship, and in an hour or two got aboard k'fher and sailed for the S.W. arm, another great inlet 63 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. of the sea. At night it came nearly calm, and la the dark we could not distinguish the entrance of Fox Har- bour, where we meant to anchor, so I went to examine it in the boat. After half a mile rowing, found a narrow entrance, sounded and got it all right, and returned. There was not a cloud in the heavens, * studded with stars unutterably bright,' Jupiter especially casting a strong gleam across the still water. This might have been taken for a lake, but for the gentle heave of the ground-swell, which told of the stirring of old ocean. The air was balmy ; and in the N.W., where the laiost streak of twilight yet lingered, a beautiful aurora was flickering with yellow light ; while every dash of the oar and surge of the boat made the sea flame with phos- phorescent sparks and flashes. Around this brilliant scene the dark headlands lay on every side in stern re- pose, a fitting frame for the picture. All was still ex- cept the boom of a whale as he rose occasionally to blow (making a noise like the puff" of a steam-engine) and the surge of the waters as they closed around his de- scending carcass. Jxihj 14. Started with four hands for the other side of the Bay of Bulls to climb a hill called Centre Hill, about four miles. In half mile found jQyself nearly knocked up. Roused by fresh track of deer, but could not get sight of one. With much difficulty got to foot of hill ; lunched on biscuit soaked in whisky-and-water. SAL T ME A T AND MUDD V WA TER. 63 Set to work again, and found myself at length on the summit^ but too giddy and tired to enjoy it. Counted, however, one hundred and fifty-two small lakes within eight miles. . . Got back to ship faint and weary. The fact was, I had had nothing but salt meat (of no very good quality or curing), and my English stomach had acquired a distaste for it ; so that, as the weather got hotter, I lived principally on tea and biscuit, the latter sometimes mouldy. This agrees very well with the people here, but I wanted something more substantial. Before night, between the showers, I took a walk in tht, woods, and on returning found Kelly had turned one sail into a hammock for me, under which Joe had spread boughs for himself, while Kelly and Dick lay on boughs and the other sail. We then had supper, grog, and pipes, and spun yarns ; among which Kelly's were con- spicuous, partly for the humour with which they were told, and partly for the astounding lies they contained, liimself the witness and voucher for every one of them. July 16. Sailed to Tickle Head, then to Tickle Point, where T landed and shot five brace of sea-pigeons, a small kind of teal or widgeon, with red legs and black- land-whito feathers. Thence into Collier's Bay, and anchored in a small cove remarkable for nothing but tolerable water (the first since we left Trinity that you l^ould think drinkable, as we could generally study bo- ay and entomology in our glasses) and the vivid bites 64 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ''fjt'l of its mosquitoes, as also for tlie al)un(lauce of its sand- flies — an infinitesimal creature, like a needle's point in size, but much sharper and more stinging. . . . Jidy 18. Another famous day. Found a few faint impressions of shells in a red rock, the first fossils I have seen, something like f?mall orthes of Dudley. The men thought I must have discovered a silver mine at least. I saw a paper, by the bye, at New Harbour, professing to give some account of my proceedings, and saying I had discovered a copper mine, gypsum, and I don't know what. I suppose I was asleep when I did it, for I don't recollect it. . . . July 21. I landed at Quiddy Viddy, and walked to St. John's ; found letters from you. ... In answer to your letter, my dear mother, I have only to thank you, and to assure you that, though I hope I shall not shrink from any danger in discharge of my duty, I am by no means of that chivalric temperament to seek danger for its own sake. ... I am specially obliged for the copy of Sedgwick's letter ; his approbation is indeed a spur/ "^'^ The letter here referred to was one from Professor Sedg- wick to Mr. Alfred Jukes, surgeon, of Birmingham, from which the following words are an extract : ' Your nciihew, whom I saw in London about a month since, is now, I presume, on his way to Ne\\'foundland. I am delighted with his boldness in undertaking the laboiious task that is before liim. But he has chosen a line for himself, and there is only one good way for him — to follov/ it in such a manner as may tell for DISPATCH OF LETTERS AND CHART. 6S I sincerely hope that my fears may not be fulfilled, and the Bn-mingham meeting may prove a good one. . . . I am afraid the postage of this letter will be very heavy. ... I have been much more particular now than I can be in future. I shall not return from my next expedi- tion till the latter part of October, soon after which we shall be frozen-up. I shall not be able to send any letter after this till November, when it is a chance if there will be a vessel going. You must not, then, be uneasy if you do not hear from me after this until next spring. At the same time, it is very probable I shall be able to send a letter in the autumn or winter. . . . By dint of great resolution and keeping indoors this most lovely day, I have finished letters and copied part of my large chart of Newfoundland, of which Avalon forms but a small corner. I have also traced my track in red iuk, as you will perceive. Mr. Noad, the surveyor- general, has copied it for my use with his pentagraph, ou six times the scale, or thirty-six times the super- ficies. But only think — if it takes me five weeks to examine these two small bays, what it will take for the liis own honour and tlie good of liis countr5^ His health is ex- cellent, and he will stand in need of it. His zeal is unbounded. A new world is before him, from which, I trust, he will bring Itack a rich harvest. The work, if his life be spared, will put turn in the first class of geological observers, and be, I hope, the means of eventually securing for liim some good position as a I !flau of science.' F 66 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. whole island ! . . . Finis. I shall be too busy to-mor- row to add a word, so now farewell. My best love at- tends you all. I wish you all health and happiness; but why need I say this when I who say it am your affectionate Beete. St. John's, July 30. Got the last of my things on board at nine o'clock; but detained to get clear of Custom House, which does not open till ten. Then getting my men together, so did not set out till twelve, taking a Will instead of a Joe, who was too drunk. Having gone three miles, two guns were fired from Fort William. Captain thought it was a signal for us to put back ; would not attend to it, so cracked on ; no time to be lost. Aug, 1. In afternoon close in to St. Pierre, but too thick to venture among rocks. Wind shifted, and blew very hard ; nearly driven on lee-shore ; in the morniug made land, and found ourselves fifteen miles back again away from St. Pierre ; by direction of fishermen, steered for small harbour called Lamelin. Got in in the fog. Aug. 2. When fog cleared, saw we had passed through a narrow passage, seventy yards wide, surrounded b} shoals and rocks. Country here a dreary waste. Aug. 5. Got into St. Pierre in evening. Captain of SECOND TRIP IN THE BEAUFORT. 67 tlie guard-ship came on board to know who we were.* Offered his services in any way. He spoke a little Eng- lish, which I answered in as little French. Sent in my name to French governor. Midshipman came on board to say governor would be happy to make my * honour- able acquaintance at micli.* Invited me to dine at five o'clock, when I met two Frenchmen and an Englishman settled there. Complete French dinner ; and at nine o'clock, instead of tea, a glass of bottled ale handed round. Anfi. 7. Went in boat to neighbouring islands of Langley and Miquelon, connected by a beach five miles long, through which there was a passage fifty yearb dgo. Governor has a country house here, at which were two gendarmes, one of whom was married to a pretty Irishwoman. She left Ireland with her father and brother in the time of the cholera, and went to Quebec, where, finding it ^ury bad, they went to Mon- treal. Here it was worse ; and both her father and bro- ther sickened and died. She embarked for home, and * ' The islands of St. Pierre Miquelon and Langley are the only territorial possessions left to the French in this part of the world. ' By treaty, the French are not allowed to erect fortifications, nor to have more than fifty soldiers on the island at one time. They have very strict regulations in the port. No English boats or vessels having fish on board are allowed to come in, on penalty t'f being seized.' — Juhes's Excursions in Newfoundland. 68 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. was wrecked on the beach here ; and being very young and utterly destitute, she shortly after married this gen- darme. Aug, 10. Found ourselves in Gulf of St. Lawrence, with west shore of Newfoundland about ten miles off. In evening a splendid aurora — a diffused yellow light all over north, with beautifully brilliant primrose-coloured streamers, dotted with stars, and dabbled with black clouds. The next morning weather splendid ; the Beau- fort bending under wind, and leaping from wave to wave, Got into Bay of islands, and anchored at dark. Aug. 12. Sailed up an arm of the sea to a fine river called the Humber. Made preparations to go up it. At three miles came to first rapid, and obliged to put out three men and a line to tow her up — difficult navigation, great rocks, shallows, deep holes, and whirlpools, and current like a mill-race ; rapids half a mile long. About ten miles up another rapid, more dangerous and diffi- cult than the first. Took us a long time to get up. One mile above this came upon a fine lake. Began to rain ; so encamped in the woods, having brought the square sail of the Beaufort, which made a fine tent, and kept us dry, though it rained very hard all night. Started at seven o'clock, explored a small river, rowed and saiV'i up lake, which was fifteen miles long, and got into con- tinuation of river, and encamped at five o'clock under some fine beech-trees. WOODS AND PROFUSION OF BERRIES. 69 Aug. 15. Early in the morning heard roar of falling water ; mist cleared, and saw great rapids half a mile ahead ; despaired of getting boat up — great rocks and breakers. Examined provisions ; only for two days more. Obliged to go back. A little lower down found another river sixty yards broad ; turned up it, but in half a mile came to similar rapids ; and back again. Saw Indian wigwam, and found old arrow-head of red Indians. Sailed back to lake, and encamped on a very pleasant spot. Rain at night ; but tent dry. Aucj. 16. Rowed down lake ; eat last of our prog on small island ; finished dinner on berries of various kinds —some like bilberries. Got back to the Beaufort at dark. Aug. 17. Examined limestone hills ; no fossils. In woods got gooseberries, currants, raspberries, a black berry intermediate between black currant and rough gooseberry, bunch berries, squash berries, maidenhair berries ; and saw three kinds of poison berries : one a beautiful cerulean blue, growing on leaf and stalk like lily of valley. Woods much loftier and better to walk in than in east of the island. Went to Indian wigwam ; saw three Indian women ; bought a pair of mocassins — white deerskin ornamented with coloured cloth. These Indians are not aborigines, but came from Cape Breton originally. Aug. 24. In evening got out a fishing line, and 70 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. in an hour and a half we caught fifty-five cod-fish, several of which weighed thirty pounds. The men split them, and salted them down in two old beef- barrels. Aug. 27, St. George's Bay. I have heard of an op- portunity of sending to St. John's, so am just finishing off this sheet. I hear of coal, and ' plaster-of-paris,' and lead-ore at different points of the bay, which will be the most interesting spot I have seen. Meanwhile T have just agreed with an Indian to go with us into in- terior. Grand Pond, which I left unreached from Bav of islands, comes to within twenty miles of here, and we can reach it in a day and a half. Then he has a flat- bottomed boat on it, by means of which I can get to within five miles of where we were obliged to turn back. We shall be away a week, as there is thirteen miles to be walked, which will take a day and a half each way. My future movements will be hence in about a fortnight ; then cruise along south shore of Newfoundland to St. John's, which I should reach about the latter end of October. . . . On August 27 I finished my last despatch, and made it into a packet to go to St. John's, to be sent io Eng- land by the first ship. On August 28 we set out, after several heavy showers and strong winds, and got to the START FOR GRAND POND. n mouth of the brook, whence we were to set out inland. Here we slept in a small cabin ten feet long, six feet wide, and four and a half high. It just held a fire at one end and the four men, the Indian SuUeon and myself lying heads and points at the other, my dog Bell creeping under a corner of my blanket, and lying along my back. Up at daylight, boiled the breakfast, arranged our packages, and started. I carried my hammer-bag, my new knapsack — chockful — cape, leg- gings, and blanket. One man a bag of bread, the others beef, pork, &c. — provisions for a week. The day was fine, and we trudged on, following a kind of track which to Indian eyes was visible, but scarcely to less practised ones. We passed through several small woods and long marshes, and toiled on with our loads until four o'clock. We had then come eight miles, according to Sulleon ; but all were sufficiently tired. I believe we had come at least ten, and I had rather walk forty ill any part of England. We slept that night in an old tilt which happened to be near, and managed pretty well, except that the men made such a fire, that v/e were near burning it down. Aug. 30. Left some provisions till our return, and again set forward over similar ground, but more hilly. The wet moss sinks under you at every step, making every movement a labour, and obliging you to watch your footing. The woods are more lofty and open 7i LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Wm than any I have seen ; but the path still impeded by roots, stumps, and fallen timber. It would, however, be much easier to clear than that on the east of the island, and contains much finer timber. At three in the afternoon we stood on an eminence of about 100 feet, from whence we could see the Grand Pond lying below us. Descending the hill, we came to the bed of a brook running into it, and half a mile farther we came on the flat-bottomed boat which was to help us forward. We all laid down our loads with considerable satisfaction, and shortly had a fire blazing and the kettle boiled for dinner. Having put the things in the boat, S. and I left the men to bring it on, and walked to look for game, and among some swamps we shot four or five wild ducks. The first part of the pond is from one to two miles wide, and about seven long, lying between precipitous hills of six or seven hundred feet high, all gneiss and mica slate. At the south side of the lake was a wigwam, which had been built by SuUeon ; and as we had to make another oar, a mast, and repair the boat, we stopped here for the evening. A v'igwam is a lot of sticks stuck round a circle and meeting at top, covered round the side with birch-bark, and the top open for smoke. The fire is made in the middle, and the small boughs of fir are spread neatly round in a circular fan-shape for the couch. If you stand up, your head is over the fire in the chimney; NIGHT IN A WIGWAM. n but you can sit or lie very conveniently at the circum- ference of the circle, with your feet to the fire. Six of us lay in this way, each man's head behind the other's legs. It forms a tolerable shelter from rain, but is, in fact, only a great fire-place, with the draught drawing under the bark all the way round. Wrapped in my blanket, however, and with my knapsack for a pillow, I slept soundly enough. Up early ; but Sulleon and I both unwell, from wading after wild ducks while glow- ing with perspiration, and then sitting in wet clothes. After proceeding seven miles with much difficulty, against a head - wind and high waves, found another wigwam, in which we took shelter. During that night the wind blew so violently that we were all afraid the wigwam would be blown over, or some of the trees fall on it. At daylight the Pond was a sheet of foaming waves, like snow. The Pond, after the first seven miles, divides into two, enclosing an island twenty-two miles long. "We sailed up the north arm between lofty precipices. At length such a squall came driving through the narrow pass, and such a rolling swell, as I never saw except at sea. We kept as much as pos- sible under lee of the land; but had it not been for SuUeon's careful steering, we should certaiiuy have been wrecked ; and the banks on either hand so steep, as to make it uncertain whether we could have got ashore at all. Arriving at the end of the island, we ,%. ^ .r,%, ^1^ vO. V] ^^ # o ^. ei. ^i ^. '> op. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 |S0 ""^ " IIIM IIM I.I 1.25 [ 2.2 !|2.0 mm 14 ill 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation s? \\ % V ^3 ^ o"^ % 1? ^^If St. Paul — Van Dieraan's Land — Ho- l.rton — Norfolk Island — Sydney — Cape Upstart — Explana- tory notes — Journal of work, explorations, and adventures on Banior Roef and north-cast coast of Australia — Interviews with natives — Murray's Islands — North coast — Port Essington —Timor — Swan River. The office of naturalist to the expedition for survey- ing Torres Strait, New Guinea, &e., was offered to Mr. •Jukes early in 1842, and gladly accepted. Indeed no position could have been more to his taste at this peiiod, when the thirst for new scenes and a life of fidventure was almost as strong as his love of science, M(l this appointment opened a prospect of gratifying both. There was no little of the sailor in his dis- 128 LETTERS OF J BEETE JUKES. position, as he himself perceived during this voyage, and had he spent his boyhood in a sea -side town, doubtless the sea would have been his destination. The ample details given in his letters of this important ex- pedition have formed one of the chief grounds for this memorial of him ; few travellers have time or inclina- tion to write so fully, and it will be seen that he neg- lected no opportunity of sending letters home. They form a series complete in themselves, and the greater variety of life and scenery which they ",3ortray renders them much more interesting than those from Newfound- land, the island of fogs and swamps. Another farewell to his mother, whose health was much impaired, was again his chief trial in quitting England ; she was, however, spared to welcome him home, and lived for a few years after his return. J'x order to connect and render the following series of letters more intelligible, an 'Abstract of the Voyage,' taken from the appendix to Mr. Jukes' * Narrative,' is here given. This may be divided into two parts : the first cruise comprising the voyage out to Hobarton, the work of surveying the Barrier Keef and N.E. coast, and the circumnavigation of Australia until arriving again at Hobarton ; the second cruise including the building of the beacon-tower on Eaine's Islet, the visit to Java and New Guinea, the voyage home, and arrival at Spit- head. FIRST CRUISE IN THE FLY. 129 Abstract of the Voyage. We sailed from Falmouth in H.M.S. Flj', in com- pany with her tender, the Bramble schooner, on Sunday afternoon, April 11, 1842, and anchored at Funchal, in the Island of Madeira, on the following Sunday morn- ing, April 18. We remained here a few days to rate the chronometers, and then sailed to Teneriffe, where a party of U3 ascended the celebrated Pic de Teyde. We carried up a mountain barometer, and the mean of our observations gave 12,080 feet for its height above the sea. We left Teneriffe on May 3, and on May 9 touched for a few hours at Porto Praya, in St. Jago, one of the Cape Verde Islands. We crossed the Equator on May 18, and on the 23d hove-to for a few hours, and landed on the little island of Trinidad. Thence we sailed to the Cape of Good Hope, where we anchored in Simon's Bay on June 19. We stayed here some time, to refit and refresh, and also to compare our magnetic instruments with those of the observatory at Cape Town. We again sailed on July 14, and on August 5 anchored under the little island of St. Paul's, and visited the interior of the crater in our boats. On August 27, we entered Storm Bay in Van Dieman's Land, and remained at Hobarton till October 6. Then, calling for a day or two at Port Arthur, we proceeded to Sydney, where we arrived on October 15, and remained till November 24. On No- K 130 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m m vember 26, we entered Port Stephens, and having then completed our preparations, and collected all the pre- liminary information we could acquire, we sailed thence on December 17 to commence the survey. This was begun at Sandy Cape by the examination of Breaksea Spit. From this point the survey was regularly carried c ii, through the Capricorn group of islands and Swain's Reefs, up to lat. 21°. We were then obliged to go to Port Bowen to repair some damages. Here we remained till February 28, 1843, during which time a detailed survey of the Port was completed. Thence we sailed through the Percy Islands to West Hill, a little north of Broad Sound, where we found a supply of water^ of which we were beginning to run short. The Bramble had been dispatched to look for water, and found it in abundance a little north of Cape Hillsborough. The coast from West Hill to the northern part of Whit- Sunday Passage was then surveyed, a part that had been only hastily sketched in by previous expeditions. On March 30, we anchored under Cape Upstart, where we remained the rest of that month, repairing the boats, and raising and decking the pinnace, to enable her to keep the sea during the surveying operations. We were joined at Cape Upstart by the barque William, with a fresh stock of provisions and stores sent up from Sydney by previous agreement. We made several boat-excursions during this time. On May 17, PREPARATIONS IN LONDON. 131 we sailed from Cape Upstart with the Bramble and the pinnace (now called the Midge) in company, and the next day anchored in Rockingham Bay, of which an accurate survey was completed by the end of the month. On June 1, we sailed to the northward ; and after heaving-to for an hour to look at Endeavour River on June 4, we anchored under Lizard Island. Here was commenced the survey of the outer edge of the northern part of the Great Barrier Reef, ^^^hich was completed up to Murray Islands. On August 14, we left Torres Strait, touched for a few days at Port Essington and at Coupang in the island of Timor, to procure water and refreshments ; and on September 30 anchored at Swan River, where we remained a month, and then returned to Hobarton. 10 George-street, Eusion-square, Jan. 26, 1842. Deak a., — I have packed up the greatest portion of my baggage, amounting altogether to 5300 boxes — that is, including pill-boxes and chip-boxes — besides two or three hundred bottles. I have just got my instruments, with such a beautiful little microscope, the highest poAver of which makes squares of the five-hundredth part of an mch the size of pin's heads. I spent a very pleasant evening at Murray's yesterday, and I go to a soiree at 132 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Murchison's to-morrow night. . . . London was illu- minated last night, and some of the club-houses were very splendid. The King of Prussia is here, but he has not called upon me. I hope to see Humboldt next week at the Geological. I was at the Zoological last night, when mad Lieutenant A — addressed us at the close of the meeting, and nearly suffocated us with laughter. . . . My baggage altogether would about fill the study up to the ceiling. Best love to my mother and yourself, from your ever affectionate brother, J. Beete Jukes. I am getting more valuable books, and I like Black- wood more the more I see of him. He is very anxious I should be fitted out completely, and seems to enter into the natural-history part with great eagerness. I hope we shall have a plant-collector, after all, and have written down to a man I heard of near Bridgenorth. Between science and socialities, my time is fully oc- cupied. HM.S. Fly, Devonport, March 28, 1842. My dear Mother, — . . . We are all very busy ou board this morning, as the admiral is coming off shortly to inspect us. All my companions are getting out their cocked-hats and swords ; but as I do not sport a PREPARATIONS ON BOARD. 133 uniform, I shall receive him in a dress-coat and round hat merely. After our inspection, we shall make our first voyage of a mile or two from our moorings oflf the dockyard, down into the Sound, behind the Breakwater. We shall then be put into perfect sea-going order, the men will have three months' pay in advance, and about Saturday or Sunday next we shall sail. We shall, how- ever, I believe, put into Falmouth for a day or two, to take some magnetic instruments on board. We shall then sail for Madeira, where, if we get a fair wind, we shall arrive in ten days, and there we shall stop for two or three. You may therefore calculate on hearing from me in about a month after we sail. We shall then be six or seven weeks going to the Cape, where we shall stop three weeks. From thence we shall sail direct to Hobarton ; and how long we shall be, I can hardly tell you. Everything goes on very smoothly hitherto, and I think we have every prospect of a plea- sant voyage. The first part of it will be the worst, as we are lumbered with an immensity of stores, and are obliged to have barrels of flour, &c. alongside our dinner- table in the gun-room, besides a great locker under the table, to hold tea and sugar for eight people for six months. We do not go to Rio after all. There is such a bustle about, that I can write no longer. — Your ever affectionate son, J. B. Jukes. 134 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Murray has made me a present of Byron's works, in one beautiful volume. H.M.S. Fly, Falmouth, April 10, 1842. My dear a., — This, I expect, will be my last letter from any part of England. Since I wrote last, I have been into the great mining district, and yesterday took a party of our ofiicers into the bowels of the earth, down the East Wheal Crofty mine. We had much laughing at each other in our miners' dresses, with candles hang- ing at our button - holes. I have received all your letters, the last containing the music and the address. It seems very fair, barring a little Wernerian geology, which is rayther out of date, and some incomprehen- sible chemistry, in which he seems to treat carbon as a compound of hydrogen and nitrogen. Why does not somebody get up and say ' No ' to what somebody else says at your discussions, to smarten them a little ? If the present easterly wind continues to blow at this time to-morrow, we shall be raising the anchor, and iu the afternoon put to sea. We shall be at Madeira iu eight days, if it continues to blow fresh, which I hope it will ; but as all letters from Madeira come through Portugal, you must not expect one for some time longer. April 11. I was interrupted yesterday, and now all is bustle. I am just going on shore for the last time FALMOUTH TO MADEIRA, 135 iu England, to buy a few things. You and my mother must now, therefore, accept my best love and farewells. . . . There are several things I meant to say to you, but I shall have plenty of time to think them over between here and Madeira. — Your ever aflfectionate bro- ther, Beete. Funchal, Madeira, April 18, 1842. My dear a., — Exactly a week ago we left Falmouth, with a piercingly cold N.E. wind. We are now luxu- riating in the rich warm air of this lovely island. We had a splendid passage ; a strong wind right after us the whole way, with a clear sky overhead, the air and water getting gradually warmer and more serene as we approached the south. We made the 1200 miles in rather less than the week, and the first two days we were delayed by the slow movements of our tender, the Bramble, which we then left behind, and expect here to-morrow or the next day. . . . This morning, when we made Madeira, a strong wind was blowing from the N.W., and the island was enveloped in clouds and rain. On rounding the western point, however, we found the sun shining on the southern side, and a smooth sea, with light breeze that took us gradually to our anchor- age. The island is most picturesque. It is about thirty miles long, and its highest point in the interior (which 136 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. we have not yet seen for clouds) is upwards of 5000 feet. From this point it slopes gradually down towards the sea, ending in abrupt and lofty precipitous cliffs. On the north side, indeed, is the loftiest precipice iu the world, being nearly 2000 feet. The cliffs and the whole surface of the island are worn and furrowed by numerous steep narrow winding crevices and ravines, each with its silver thread of water leaping along its bottom from cliff to cliff. Sharp ridges run consequently on all sides down to the sea, with here and there a soli- tary peak, the sides frequently showing precipices of bare columnar basalt or tabular trap. The tops of the hills and ridges are brown and bare. Lower down they are covered with pines. Below these the slopes are lined with trellises for the vines; white houses or chapels being sprinkled here and there, and many small thatched huts. In the bottoms of the valleys and near the sea grow bananas, oranges, lemons, and other tro- pical fruits in the greatest profusion. We have been feasting to-day on bananas and oranges. There is some recent book of travels in the Wolverhampton Library containing a panoramic view of Funchal. Pray get it, and imagine the Fly at anchor a little to the east or right-hand of Loo Eock (on which is a fort), and a five- oared gig pulling off with the purser, the doctor, my- self, and a midshipman in the stern - sheets, going ashore to take (for me) the first look at a Portuguese FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MADEIRA. 137 town. The houses are all white, the streets narrow and irregular, but paved with small pebbles and per- fectly clean, with squares and open places surrounded with sycamore-trees, all in full leaf. The gullies and banks and walls, and more especially the gardens, are full of large plants of tropical forms, graceful curling and pendent leaves, or broad and umbrageous ones ; and there is a brightness in the air and a warm rich glow, something like that in a hothouse, but without its oppressiveness, that is totally different from any- thing I ever felt before. Add to all these the quaint dresses of the Portuguese, their pretty little oxen drag- ging small sledges or drays, with the strange cries of their drivers and the totally foreign air of everything about, and you will have a tolerable idea of my first impressions of Madeira. Having given you these, I shall now retire to rest. . . . Tuesday, April 22. The day after we landed Lieu- tenant Ince (a jolly fellow, the picture of good-humour), Downes, and myself went a trip along shore, lunching in a sugar-shed (where they grind the canes) on brown bread and Malmsey wine for a shilling a bottle, and then bathing in the clear blue water below. The next (lay a party of thirteen of us went on horseback (beau- tiful Spanish ponies) to the Corral. We galloped up the paved streets and steep roads near the town, each with a Portuguese guide holding on by the tails of our 138 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. horses, with long poles in their hands. After crossing several ridges, we came to a steep hill, up which winded a narrow path, a yard broad and full of broken stones and masses of lava. After holding on for some time, at considerable risk of slipping over my horse's tail, we dismounted and clambered up, the horses climbing like so many cats. We then came to the brink of a preci- pice looking down into a most magnificent gorge. Along the sides of this we rode for some miles, winding among the folds of the mountains, galloping whenever we got a few yards of level road, then clambering, walking, or climbing over places that would astonish and utterly baffle any English horse, till we came to a ridge two or three thousand feet above the sea and looking down into the head of the gorge. I can't describe to ydU the magnificence of the scenery here. Peaks and precipices of black rock rose on all sides of us, their tops covered with curling mist, and the most savage grandeur min- gled with exquisite beauty. We dismounted, and giving our horses to our guides, descended by a path narrow, steep, craggy, and slippery, overhanging precipices, or winding with short turns down their sides in a way that made me very glad when we got to the bottom. Here there was a small chapel and a priest's house, with some cottages. It now began to rain heavily, and un- packing our provisions, we repaired to the priest's house, who supplied us with wine. After remaining an hour ASCENT OF THE CORRAL. 139 or two, we again mounted, and galloped up into the mists and clouds that had by this time settled down upon the hills. It was a most picturesque sight to lag behind and look up and see our cavalcade dimly through the fog, winding up the face of the cliff above me, the spirited little horses clambering up bare sheets of rock, with nothing to save them from a plunge into the valley below except their own sure footsteps. The cries and shouts of the guides in their drawling Portuguese added excitement to the scene. After many minor adventures, such as my horse losing a shoe and the guide putting it on again, we all arrived safe on comparatively Ipvel ground; and having mustered at avenda, or small wine- shop, we formed into close order two and two, and marched into town in a slow trot, greatly to the aston- ishment of the people and our own amusement ; for we made as much noise clattering over the pavement as a troop of cavalry. It was altogether an excursion never to be forgotten. . . . We shall sail, I expect, on Sun- day, but the letter-bag is to be made-up to-morrow morning. We go hence to Porto Praya in the Cape Verde Islands ; but we only stop thero a few hours, so you may expect to hear from me next from the Cape. • . . You would be delighted with the flowers here. Geraniums, roses, fuchsias, and hundreds of large and beautiful flowers, known only in hothouses with us, flourish here among the rocks by the waysides, with 140 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 11 I beautiful ferns and mosses in the wet gullies. The geology, too, would interest my aunt J., as the whole island is a mass of volcanic materials, partly ejected in a molten state, partly blown out and stratified under water. Cape Verde Islands, May 9, 1842. My dear Mother and A., — After writing to you from Madeira, I spent another pleasant day there, and on the Sunday we sailed. Before going, however, we had a wedding on board, an English gentleman and Portu- guese lady coming off to be married, as the ceremony could not be performed ashore between a Catholic and Protestant. We then had very light winds for two or three days ; but on April 28 came in sight of the Peak of Teneriffe, patched on his summit with snow, and towering high above the clouds. On the 29th, we an- chored at Santa Cruz, and made inquiries as to the possibility of ascencL ^ the Peak. The English consul and all the "'"niorities said it was impossible at that seas^ « of and that no guides would go with r '''' jffect of determining Captain Black- to tti cUi. ury. We accordingly made a party of eight : C iptain, Shadwell, Ince, M'Gillivray and Dr. Sibbald, Burgoyne and I. April 30. We set • )n horseback, each with a guide, carrying a knaps. and blanket strapped on our IMPOSSIBILITIES POSSIBLE. 141 saddles. We rodo up causeways and streams of lava to Laguna, about 2000 feet above Santa Cruz. Here we found a large and handsome town, but almost deserted, and beyond, a plain surrounded by hills, and covered with ripe wheat, barley, potatoes, lupins, maize, &c. Hiding across this, we came on the slope of the other side of the island, and had the most glorious view I ever beheld of the coast ; the hill slopes covered with vines, palms, fig-trees, cactus, &c., rising gradually into a level stmtum of clouds, above which rose the cone of the Peak in all his majesty. About 3 p.m. we arrived at Porto Orotava, a considerable town delightfully situated, and about twenty-one miles from Santa Cruz. Here again Mr. Carpenter, the vice-consul, and most other people, said it was impossible to ascend ; but at last we found a fine dark- whiskered tall Spaniard, named Aguida, who had been up nineteen times, and he made no difficulty about the matter, but promised to have eight saddle horses, and five pack-horses for pro- visions and water, ready the next morning. We then strolled out for a bathe ; but there being no shelter, I got my legs and arms cut against the rocks in the surf, and the next morning again fell and hurt my knee on the slippery lava blocks with which the town is paved. I also got a wicked horse with a horrid Spanish saddle, something like a pack-saddle in miniature. However, at 6 A.M., May 1, off we set; and riding over one or 142 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. two lava streams, all bare, galloped along tlie little rugged paths over the undulating valley of Orotava among vines and tropical plants, greeted on every side by the smiling salutations of a handsome and comfort- able-looking peasantry. We then began to ascend by steep rugged little paths alongside a ravine, and in about an hour entered the clouds. The rocks were now covered with beautiful heaths and juniper-bushes, through which we rode for another hour and a half, when we emerged from the clouds into a blazing sun- shine, striking on hills of lava and pumice-stone, all brown, bare, and desolate. Over these we rode, climb- ing occasionally the most breakneck-looking crags on our sure-foote(l little horses. I should have told you, too, that my beast, kicking out at another, broke the fragile girths of the saddle, and laid me and it on the ground, where he trod on me once or twice, without doing any material injury. At noon we stopped to rest and lunch at a place called the Canada, and took the height of the barometer ; we were now upwards of 6000 feet high, and 2000 feet above the clouds, which stretched away below us in white snow-like plains. We now entered on the great plains of pumice-stone, in small pieces, all dry, dusty, and yellow, with crags and rocks protruding at intervals. On this nothing but a few bushes of broom grew. It was toilsome work cross- ing these arid and dusty rolling plains, which, though ASCENT OF THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE. 143 looking smooth, were really hilly. . . We then arrived at the foot of the great cone, which had, however, a buttress of pumice on one side. Up this we rode, and then, with slow and toilsome steps, scarcely ahle to get our horses along, we dragged them up a little narrow winding track, up a steep ascent of ashes and cinders, to ihe Estancia de los Ingleses. Here we found ice, and making a fire under the lee of some great blocks of rock, we ate our dinner about 5 p.m., and prepared to pass the first of the night, which we did very comfort- ably; we singing English songs at one fire, and our dark wild-looking Spanish guides singing Spanish at another. We were all clothed in caps and blankets, and with our thirteen horses and twenty-two selves must have made a very wild and picturesque bivouac among the black lava and white ashes, lighted up by our fires, and by the clear and brilliant stars. At two in the morning Aguida roused us ; and taking each a cup of coffee and a long stick in our hands, we addressed ourselves to the Peak by the light of a half-moon, leav- ing our other guides and horses at the Estancia. Slowly, and by little and little {poco a poco), walking a minute and resting a minute, did we mount the steep mound of ashes and cinders by a little winding track for the first hour. We then came to the foot of a great lava stream, and for another hour and a half we scrambled up round loose rugged stones, tottering, jumping, or 144 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. climbijQg from one to another. At five the sun rose most magnificently over the hills of the Gran Canaria, which pierced through the clouds to the west, and we found ourselves at the foot of the piton, or last and newest cone of ashes. This last little bit of five or six hundred feet cost us one hour and a half of the severest labour ; but at length, at half-past six, we stood all on the summit, looking down into the little crater on one side, and over a space equal to, or greater than, all England and Wales on the other. Palma Gomera and Canaria were visible, and patches of sea, and Teneriffe below us ; all the rest looked like an immense country covered with snow. It was, however, very magnificent. Several of the party felt so sick, that we did not stay so long as I wished, or nearly, on the Peak ; and began to descend at seven o'clock. At nine we reached the Estancia, and at three p.m. had returned to Orotava. Our barometrical measurements gave a height of 12,109 feet for the Peak. We were visited by several people, both English and Spanish, and were invited on all sides to balls and parties if we would stay. The gentlemen said all the Spanish ladies there spoke English, and were longing to see us ; but as we had no business to be in Tenerifi'e at all, we were obliged to fly temptation, and early on May 3 we returned to Santa Cruz, and sailed the same evening. We have had very pleasant weather ever since, and are now sailing into Porto Prayo CROSSING THE LINE. 145 in St. Jago, Cape Verde Islands, where, as there may be an opportunity to send a letter, I have scratched you off this. You will find an account of Porto Praya in the beginning of Darwin's volume, and a panoramic view of Funchal (but not a good one) in Fitzroy. Humboldt describes TenerifFe in his Personal Narrative, first volume. I have only room left to assure yourselves and all friends of my frequent recollection of you, either below the clouds or above them. . . . False Bay, Oape of Good Hojie, June 19, 1842. My dear Mother and A., — We are now just beat- ing up False Bay, and hope to get to anchor this even- ing in our harbour — Simon's Bay, about twenty miles from Cape Town. I sent you a letter with an account of our ascent of the Peak of Teneriffe. We only stayed there a few hours ; and the day after we left we got among the flying-fish, and into the bright water and lovely skies of the neighbourhood of the Line. As we iipproached more nearly the Equator, we had occasional lioaA7 showers, it being the rainy season ; but everything soon dried again, as the thermometer was at 80°. With the awning on the quarter-deck, this weather and tem- perature was delightful. On May 17, we were very near the Line, with light variable winds, and in the evening ii strange sail was reported from the mast-head, bearing 146 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. right down on us. We all ran on deck, and when the captain had taken his station on the poop, a voice hailed us from the sea immediately under our bows, and de- manded leave for Neptune to come on board. Aboard he came accordingly, in strange disguise ; and, after a palaver with the captain, expressed his intention of boarding us to-morrow with Amphitrite and his son, and shaving those who were for the first time entering his dominions. The next morning. May 18, after a deal of preparation under the forecastle behind some sails — which was all kept secret from the uninitiated— a lot of rough fellows, daubed with paint and variously and hideously disguised, with great staves in their hands, and denominated ' constables,' came and ordered all below that were to be shaved, and all on deck that had crossed the Line before. They then fastened do^Yll the hatches, and arranged their proceedings. Almost all the mates and midshipmen, more than half the ship's company and petty officers, and some of the hest men in the ship, were uninitiated. Accordingly, when all assembled, we called a council, and determined to show fight for it ; and that when Neptune summoned us one by one on deck, instead of answering to our names, we would tell him to come and fetch us. No sooner said than done. We triced the ladders up under the hatchways to form a barrier, cut oflf the connection between the pumps and the hose on deck, and declared SKIRMISH WITH NEPTUNE. 147 war. After much skirmishing with backets of water on both sides, capturing some of the constables' staves, and passing hard raps about pretty freely, they made a rush down, took one pump, drove one wing of our body forward, captured a gunner, and rigged a hose so as to play upon us (with a snout like a fire-engine). Some of them slipped a noose over my head, reined the rope through a tackle, and were hoisting me on deck, when some of our best men dashed forward, knocked over the constables, and seized me by the legs. Then began the thick of the fray, and I was very nearly pulled in two, but at length got free. We then took two or three constables, dragged them forward, and lashed them as prisoners to the mess-tables. In one great struggle I was nearly drowned, as the first lieu- tenant kept playing on me with the great hose from the deck ; but at length we drove the constables up, retook the pump, and cut off their supply of water. After this, all went against them. Every one of their attacks were repelled, and at last, as we had more than half the constables lashed in a row round the bows of the vessel, Neptune sent to acknowledge himself foiled, but begged us to comply with ancient custom. Satis- fied with our victory, we yielded to these terms and went on deck; submitted to be blindfolded, pumped upon, swilled with water, lathered either with soap or tar, and shaved with the rough or smooth razor (accord- 148 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ing as we stood in the good-books of the barber or otherwise), lowered into a sail full of sea-water, dragged through it, and then to scramble by ropes on to the forecastle under a heavy fire of bucketsful of sea-water. I was let off pretty easily ; but some of them got the tar-brush and the rough razor. As soon as each one reached tLj forecastle, he was at liberty to pitch into the others ; when, providing myself with a bucket and a wet swab, I proceeded to pay off the first lieutenant and some other of my friends. By this time, however, no one cared for water, as, from the captain down to the loblolly boy, no one had a dry rag on him, and few had any rags at all except their trousers and shoes. Wlien all had been shaved, Neptune's procession was formed, and he was wheeled aft on a gun-carriage, with his hideous Amphitrite and their daughter (a young scamp of a boy in an old bonnet, a sail-cloth shawl, red paint, and oakum for ringlets). He had also his doctor in tin spectacles, his secretary in an old coat and a ' shocking bad hat,' and a tribe of other attend- ants. Having made his report to the captain, and all hands being promised double allowance of grog, the word was passed to clean decks and call the watch, and in a quarter of an hour everything and everybody was dry, clean, silent, and orderly. It was altogether a good lark, and our desperate resistance heightened the fun and formed a subject of conversation for a week afterwards. ISLAND OF TRINIDAD—SIMON'S BAY. 149 I have given you this long account because I have really nothing else to tell you, except that we landed at the little island of Trinidad on May 27. It is a lofty and barren little spot, about five miles long, very difficult of access, and seldom landed upon. We were only there three hours, and I was occupied with getting shells, corals, fish, and rocks. It is of volcanic origin, but contains sandstone with recent shells. A farther cruise on it would have been very interesting. On May 28, we passed the tropic of Capricorn, hav- ing given up all hope of being obliged to go to Bahia or Rio Janeiro. On June 4, the wind, which had been blowing from E. and N.E., suddenly shifted to S., when we were in about 30° S. and 25° W. and blew hard with heavy swell. We then turned our head to the east, and ran along 30° S. till we came to 16° E., which we reached June 17. We were then in sight of the Cape of Good Hope, and hoped to have been in in a few hours. Easterly winds and calms, however, checked us off, and for two or three days we have been idling in sight of port without being able to get in. Notwithstanding its being midwinter, and the hills up the country covered with snow, the weather is most lovely, clear, warm, and pleasant, the thermometer ranging from 58° to 68°. The day after to-morrow is the shortest day with us. Our whole passage has in- deed been most favourable and delightful. We expect fl I 150 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. to stop here three or four weeks before we sail for Van Dieman's Land. I write this off in case a vessel should be on the point of sailing when we get in. . . , Simon's Bay, June 21. "We anchored, as we ex- pected, on the evening of the nineteenth, and yesterday I came ashore to get a place for the twenty-four hours' meteorological observations. I engaged a room at the British Hotel, and last night, having fixed all my in- struments, I got into bed very sleepy and tired. Before I could well shut my eyes, however, I was attacked by a host of fleas, and not one regular half-hour's sleep have I had. At half -past four I got up, lighted a candle, and began to observe, as I could lie still no longer ; and now the first red tinge of morning is shin- ing across the still waters of False Bay. Simon's Bay is a snug little sandy cove on the west side of False Bay, environed by precipitous hills six or eight hundred feet high, formed of dry brown sandstone resting on granite. The sandy shores are strewed with various kinds of shells — some very beautiful — and as soon as I have finished my meteorological observations, I mean to have a dig at them with my dredge. Although to- day is the shortest day, and the sun does not rise until after seven o'clock, the weather and temperature are delightful. No fires nor even fire-places. There is a small war broken out on the borders of this colony at Port Natal. Some emigrant Dutch boors, who left this inHTriHiM! r il WILD FLOWERS^CAPE TOWN. 151 place to settle there, have broken out, defeated with some loss the party of military stationed there, and the Southampton (the flag-ship of the station) is gone down with troops. We have no more recent news from India here than when we left England ; indeed, the vessel which is to take this letter was detained a month by bad weather off the Cape on her passage from Sing- apore, and only got in two days before we did. You would delight in the flowers here. Only fancy jonquils growing wild in the middle of winter, besides beautiful heaths and lots of others whose names I know not ! . . . Now again farewell, and believe me ever your own dear . Beete. Cape Toivn, July 10, 1842. My dear Mother and A., — The very first day I landed at Simon's Bay I was foolish enough to tumble into a hole in an old wooden pier, and bruise and cut my shin. I took no notice of it for three or four days, when it inflamed and laid me up for a fortnight, confin- ing me to the captain's sofa. Three days ago I was able to take the poultice off and run up to Cape Town, on condition I did not walk much. (N.B. I ran up in the mail-cart.) I have accordingly lost all opportunity of seeing much of this extremity of Africa, the first conti- nent I ever trod. Cape Town is really a beautiful place. 152 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Table Mountain and the adjacent liills, rising in magni- ficent precipices to the height of 3500 feet (the heiglit of Snowdon), half encircle an undulating plain that 8lo2)es to the sea (there's an Irish definition of a plain). The sea is the wide sweep of Table Bay, opening into the Atlantic ; south of the bay a real plain quite flat extends for twenty miles, on the other side of which is a very picturesque range of mountains. The town is well laid out in spacious streets crossing at right-angles, some of which have rows of trees with a brook of clear water down the centre. The houses are of light stone, spacious and lofty, with handsome fronts and fine rooms. Alto- gether I know scarcely any town more beautifully situ- ated, or more striking at first sight. Captains Blackwood and Wickham, Burgoyne, and myself are staying in this house. It is a boarding-house kept by a widow lady. . . . They are very pleasant peo- ple. We live remarkably well and in good style, din- ing at six, and having always music and dancing in the evening. In short, we could spend another month here very pleasantly, especially when my leg is well enough to mount on horseback and visit the environs. One of the most characteristic sights here is a bullock wagon long, light, and narrow, and drawn by a string of from fourteen to twenty pairs of bullocks, each of which knows his name and obeys the voice of the driver. They sometimes drive, too, eight horses in hand, turning BULLOCK- WA GONS—CAL CULA TIONS. 1 5 3 round the corners with the greatest dexterity. . . . Wo leave this place to-morrow, having engaged an eight - horse wagon to take ourselves and our traps, includ- ing sundry cases of schnapps and scheidam, down to Simon's Town ; on Wednesday we expect to sail, or at all events are sure of doing so within this week. We shall then calculate on arriving in Hoharton in Sep- tember, four or five months after which you may ex- pect to hear from me again. You must not calculate on seeing me in England till 1846, as the three years of an ordinary voyage are rather likely to lengthen out in one Hke ours. We shall stay, I believe, six weeks in Van Dieman's Land, then proceed to Sydney and stay three or four, and then go on our first cruise, which will probably last a twelvemonth ; so that unless our letters are forwarded to us (which they probably will be), I could hardly calculate on receiving an answer even to this until November 1843. I suppose it is quite warm with you. . . . The sun is shining gloriously here on the gray heights above the town, but the air we con- sider sharp, the thermometer being as low as 57° in the house. How gets on your Geological Society ? Do the ladies still attend well? Tell Alfred Browne I should be delighted to have a letter from him or any of my male friends and * fellow socialists.'* ... I have now only room to say best love to you both, and kind Tliis refers to the Social Literary Society at Wolverhampton. 154 LETTERS OF % BEETE JUKES. remembrance to all friends, and that I am ever your affectionate son and brother, J. B. Jukes. Hoharton, Sept. 1, 1842. My dear a., — Wo sailed from the Cape, July 14. About July 26 we had very bad weather and a heavy sea running. The voHsel rolled so much as to take in tons of water, first over one hammock netting and then over the other ; so that we were obliged to batten down all the skylights and hatchways, and live below by lamp- light. The same thing occurred again on the Slst, making everything very uncomfortable and wet. On August 6, we came in sight of the little island >, f St. Paul's. This is an old submarine volcano which has got a hoist, the crater being broken down and open to the sea on one side. "We anchored and went ashore, rowing into the crater across a shallow bar. The sides of the crater are very steep, rising to a height of 800 feet, and are covered, as well as the whole island, with coarse grass and rushes, no other thing growing there. We found some wild pigs that had been left there, and the captain shot one. Several springs of hot water trickled down through the stones on the beach, one of which was 150°. The island is not more than four miles long and three wide. They caught from the ship nearly a ton weight of very excellent fish in the three ISLAND OF ST. PAULS— HOB ARTON. 155 or four hours during which wo were at anchor. After leaving St. Paul's we had three other gales of wind with very disagreeable weather before reaching Van Die- man's Land. On August 23, a man fell overboard, but, as it was luckily calm and smooth, he got hold of the life-buoy, and we got him in again. These, together with watching and sometimes catching the flocks of beautiful albatrosses and petrels, are the events of our 6000 miles' voyage in the South Indian Ocean. Au(j. 25. We saw land, but did not get to anchor in Storm Bay till the night of the 27th, and anchored at Hobarton on the 28th. The next day I got a let- ter from Mrs. Meredith, dated July 11, inviting me to see them, and pointing out the best route. I set off on Thursday next, September 8. It is two days' journey, forty miles of which is through the bush. We were all very much pleased with Hobarton. The Derwent river or estuary is two or three miles broad, with hilly land covered with wood on each side of it. In a hollow, at the head of a cove on its western side, stands the town, backed by a broad flat-topped hill called Mount Wellington, 3100 feet high, the top of which is now covered with snow. The town is well laid out, with straight broad streets crossing at right- angles. But houses of all shapes and sizes are yet scat- tered about ; they are building, however, some large and handsome places now, of white stone, of which they iS6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. get plenty hard by. ... A vessel sails from hence this week, but no other will leave till November. I shall therefore not be able to send you an account of my trip to Great Swan Port till we arrive at Sydney in October. M'Gillivray and I have taken lodgings on shore while the ship is refitting. It is very cold here now, so that we were glad to be near a fire and get some of our things dried, many of which were mouldy and spoiling. Sept. 3. Wp went an excursion yesterday through the woods on the other side the river. The country is really beautiful : tall trees of the kinds called Euca- lyptus, Mimosa, and Banksia with graceful fohage; pretty little valleys with cleared spots for farms; par- rots and beautiful little birds with gaudy plumage. One lovely little valley, with an excellent road leading from Richmond in the interior, with a little brook down it, and steep wall -like faces of rock (something like the valley at Chesterton, but more picturesque), lead us to a ferry across the river, there a mile wide with fine bold hills about it. I could have fancied myself all the while in some fine part of England. The very mile- stones and the tracks of the coach-wheels were old friends. ... ill VISIT TO GREAT SWAN PORT. 157 Il.M.S. Fhj, Sydney, Oct. IT, 1842. My dear Mother and A , — We anchored here yesterday, and I intended to have had a long letter written for you before we arrived ; but in coming from Van Dieman's Land we had a tremendous gale of wind, reducing us to scudding under a close-reefed fore top- sail, with a heavy sea washing over the decks, pouring into tbo cabins, and making everything wet and miser- able. I find now that a vessel sails for England this evening. I therefore, in the midst of other occupa- tions, snatch a hast;y moment just to say all is well, promising to write a longer despatch before we leave this I spent a week with C. and Mrs. Mere- dith at Spring Yale. I went one day's journey by coach through a beautiiul country, partly rocky hills covered \\ith thick woods, partly open grassy plains, with park- hke trees here and there, where we often left the road and dro^'e among the trees over the turf, to a little place called Ross. The next day I rode on horseback with a guide over rocky hills and woods to a lofty tract of marshes called Kearney's Bogs, 2000 feet above the sea. Here I slept ; and the next day proceeded down the seaward slope of the hills into a fine flat valley, ten miles broad, all covered with woods, except a little clear- ing here and there. In the middle of this \alley, at the junction of two brooks, ten miles from the sea, is %'ing Vale. The house is a onc-story-high cottage, i 158 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. barely finished, and very rough. It stands on a slight elevation, with a fat marsh close alongside, and half- cleared woods about it. The day after I got there it began to rain, when down came the floods, nearly drowned two men, and kept us close prisoners four or five days. . . . When I left them, I walked back to Ho- barton, about eighty miles, but have no space for a de- scription of my journey. On getting back to my ship, I was involved in a great round of dinner-parties and balls, 8,nd became acquainted with the governor and Lady Franklin. As the vessel was to touch at Port Arthur, they in the kindest possible way gave us a cruise of four days with them round the Probation Sta- tion in Norfolk Bay in a colonial steamer. It was a large and delightful party, and I saw much that to an ordinary traveller is a sealed book, as these stations are diligently guarded, and the whole of Tasman's Penin- sula separated by a military post from the rest of the island. At Port Arthur, too, the commandant and his lady put their house at our disposal, and I rarely have seen a more interesting pi.: :e. We saw Frost, WilHams, Beaumont Smith, and other celebrated characters. There were also coal-mines ; and you may tell my aunt Jane that I have got Tasmanian coal fossils, and lots of spirifers, productiiB, &c. &c. from the adjacent rocks, which I take to be exact representatives of the Devonian system. I hope we shall return to Van Dieman's Land, NORFOLK BAY— SYDNEY. T59 as, though Sydney is more spacious and handsome and like an English city. I greatly prefer the aspect and style of Hobarton. I have not yet seen anybody ashore here, however, and perhaps may alter my opinion. I must not omit to tell you that I have got a new dog, a kangaroo dog, very like a greyhound, of a dark brindled colour ; light, active, intelligent, with sharp nose, and fine ears and tail, which (:.e. his ears) he cocks up when you speak to him, and looks as knowing as you please. He is called Spring, and whenever I come on deck he almost springs over me. By the bye, I hope Gov. and Bell* are well. ... I need hardly beg you to give my kindest love, regards, and remembrances to all to whom tliey are due ; and to accept the same yourselves from your affectionate son and brother, J. B. Jukes. H.M.S. Fly, Neiv South Wales, Sydney, Nov. 14, 1842. My dear a., — At length, after many arrivals with none, I get a letter from you. . . . Since we arrived here, I kve been spending a week with an old college friend, \ who has a parish at Mulgoa, about forty miles from Sydney, and a very nice wife and family. The Two dogs wliicli he brought with liim from Newfoundland. Tlie former, being a parting gift from Captain Prescott, was lamed ' Governor.' i6o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. country around is pretty, with a magnificent river gorge within a few miles. All the grass, however, is thin and brown, like that by the roadside on a dusty day, the trees small and sombre, the woods affording no shade, and everything hot, dry, brown, and burnt-up. It is not to be compared to Van Dieman's Land for beauty and pleasantness, and this entirely from the want of rain. Sydney, looked at as a town of sixty years' growth (a lady is still living who slept in a hammock slung be- tween two trees in what is now the principal street), is a wonderful place. The governor's new house is a small Windsor Castle ; the spacious streets, large and hand- some shops, numerous harbours, wharves, ships, country mansions, and the wide extent of ground it covers, equal or surpass a third-rate town in England, such as Not- tingham (it is much larger than Shrewsbury or Wolver- hampton). It is, however, badly paved, frequently not at all ; and being filled and surrounded by sand, when the wind blows, which it almost always does, it is most disagreeable. This morning, after a little rain, all was calm and lovely, when about ten o'clock, without any warning, the whole place was enveloped and hidden from sight in a cloud of fine dust, and a squall struck us that brought all hands on deck ; ever since it has been blow- ing so hard that no boat can go ashore, and fine dust has been falling all over us, though we are at a good distance from shore. This wind the inhabitants call a BRICK-FIELDER AT SYDNEY. i6i brick-fielder, as it blows from the brick-fields south of the town. In the summer a hot wind from the interior sometimes brings the thermometer up to 120°, when up comes a brick-fielder, and drops it to 60°. I have made some pleasant acquaintances here. Rev. W. Clarke I knew in England. I have seen here Cap- tain King, Sir T. Mitchell the traveller, Mr. M'Leay the naturalist, and others. ... I am delighted to find that you have at last had in England a little of that sunshine which glows perpetually here, and that you have enjoyed yourselves in Shropshire. Believe me, I shall be very glad to stand once more on Apewood Castle bin, I *• suppose before the year 1846 I shall not have a chance. The Beagle was here the other (lay, and T went all over her. She has been five years and three months out from home. The lamb history has perplexed me much. If Governor becomes a con- firmed ovicide or agnicide, I know not what you must ilo with him. He will never leave it off. 1 wish I had brought him with me. If, however, he becomes trou- blesome in any way, the best thing will be to part with bim at once. However, do just as you like. Pray be under no alarm about my health. I enjoy heat now, imd the only illnesses I have had have been slight, ^hen we get to our work, I shall be well enough di- rectly. . . . Have you ever realised (as the Yankees say) our relative positions ? When you are enveloped iu M x62 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. fog and snow, we are basking in sunshine and flowers, parrots and gaudy insects surrounding our walks; and as we are ten hours before you in longitude, our daily occupations are very nearly reversed. For instance, at six in the morning I am just taking my morning bath, at the same time that you are going to bed ; and now, while I am writing this at eleven o'clock at night, you are walking out before lunch. Lady Franklin re- marked to me how odd your correspondence made you feel here. For instance, you wrote home about some- thing very particular, but in a month or two entirely forgot it, when next year comes a letter full of the sub- ject. She said it seemed to her like stopping every now and then and living a bit of your past life over again. Your lamb affair will, no doubt, be an example of it, for you will hardly get this before April. . . . We expect to sail from this next Tuesday. We take the bishop and Captain King to Port Stephens, about one hundred miles, where we remain a few days, and then enter on our work. In about four months' time, a vessel will be sent after us with provisions. She will bring on our letters, and will perhaps take back our answers, if she return to Sydney. At all events, no vessels will pass through Torres Straits till April next; so that after this, unless I write to you from Port Stephens, you must not expect to hear from me for six months. I expect it will be thirteen months before we return to CORRESPONDENCE WITH THE ANTIPODES. 163 Sydney. We shall then have encompassed Australia ; and we shall have to do that three times, besides visit- ing the neighbouring islands, before we get a chance of being ordered home. As I can only keep one eye open, I shall say good-night for the present. Nov. 15. Business this morning presses upon me, and the letter-bag closes at noon. I have killed about a hundred golden, silver, and mottled beetles, stowed them away in boxes, partly cleaned and packed some skulls, made a selection of various things to go ashore for this trip ; and I have now to go and look over a whole host of traps, and remove them from a private merchant's store to the commissariat department. . . . Tell my aunt Jane that I am writing a geological paper for the Tasmanian Journal, a periodical under the pa- tronage of Lady Franklin. And now, my dear A., fare- well. With every possible good wish for you and all, believe me ever your own brother, Beete. H.M.S. Fly, Cape Upstart, N.E. Coast of Australia, April 10, 1843. My dear a., — Yesterday, when the morning dawned ill clouds and rain, we discovered our expected provi- sion ship at anchor three miles to leeward. About eleven o'clock we got the mail-bags on board, and great was the breaking of seals. I got your October letter, 164 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. which I read over in great wonder at several mysterious allusions to some previous one, but what it was about, and where it could be, I could not tell ; and whilst ex- claiming in the gun-room against my hard luck in losing it, the sergeant brought me three others, which had got mixed with ship's company's letters. . . . Of my mother's improved health I am most rejoiced to hear. The details, too, of your pleasant walks (no occasion to carry a double-barrelled gun and look sharp among the bushes) make me almost envy you, did I not know that my own thirst for the excitement of ad- venture would soon arise again among turnpike-roads and hedged fields. As to my book, I am also annoyed that there is no map. There are maps and sections sent to Newfoundland with the report, of which I hope and trust Murray will keep some for me. The notice taken of the work in the papers so far exceeds all my expectations that I am * as uplifted as a midden-cock upon pattens,' as Scott says. I really hardly expected so hastily-written and slight a work to be noticed at all, except in the Newfoundland papers, or among the short remarks on ' books published.' Sir R. Bonnycastle, I see, attacks me ; he came to the country just before I left it. I have a very kind letter from Captain Prescott, in which he says Boniiycastle's remarks will do me no harm. ... I wish whoever stopped the draughts in your parlour were here to stop the leak overhead in my STUIVITZ'S DEATH^STUDY OF GEOLOGY. 165 cabin. I catch a gallon of water a clay from it in this wet weather, besides the quantity absorbed by my bed, &c., and it cannot be cured until we lay the ship up again. We understand there are lady passengers going to India aboard our provision ship, but the weather is so bad she cannot come up to us. As we have had only distant glimpses of ladies, and they have been both Ijlack and naked, we are all anxious for the weather to clear, that we may enjoy the sight of a frock or gown again. . . . You will be sorry to hear poor Stiiwitz is dead. Captain Prescott has sent me an affecting ac- count of the calmness with which he met his end, re- gretting only that the fruits of his scientific labours would be lost to the world. You may imagine I was much pained by it. A martyr to scientific zeal, he would, had he lived, have done much and acquired fame, as well as advanced the boundaries of human know- ledge. You talk of reading Kichardson's Geology for Beginners. I never read it, but reading is not the way to begin geology. Get an appetite for collecting fossils. You become interested; you acquire an eye both for organic forms and for the strata of rocks, &c. Your curiosity is excited, and you wish to know something about them ; then apply to a book, and you learn. All the natural sciences, by which I mean the knowledge of the animate and inanimate things about you, req-uire tlie eye and the senses to be used, to be trained, to be i66 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. educated, as well as the intellect. You positively in not see now what in a short time you learn to perceive ; and how can you expect to learn from words things which your eyes have roamed over without conveying any ideas ahout them to the brain ? When you read, read Lyell at once. Skip what you don't understand ; you will find it out afterwards. I see I have fixed the year 1846 for my return ; I am afraid, however, it will be the spring of '47. April 26. We have lain quietly at anchor here, re- pairing our own boats and the provision ship. She is now nearly ready for sea, and talks of proceeding. I fear it will be a long while before you get this, as she will probably be forty days to Singapore, and altogether four or five months will elapse. Still, if you get it in September, and write immediately, I may get your answer in January or February, before sailing on our second trip. I believe we shall not see New Guinea this year. I have not done so much yet in the collect- ing way as I expected and intended. My dredge was eaten by the rats all except the iron, and there never has been time to make me a new net. The few shells I have got have accordingly been from the beach. I have a few very pretty bird-skins; and we have now alive a very pretty little kangaroo, brown and gray, that goes hopping about the poop, and a splendid black cockatoo, spotted with brown about the head and crest, AT ANCHOR— COLLECTING SPECIMENS. 167 and hi8 tail barred with yellow and red. He was wounded, but seems recovering, and already feeds from the hand. I must now close. Give my best love to my mother, whose health, I hope, continues to improve. . . . Remember me to all friends, and believe me ever your most aflfectionate brother, J. B. Jukes. H.M.8. Fly, Gape Upstart, April 10, 1843. My dear Browne, — Yesterday, after four months* absence from the civilised world, our provision ship reached us, bringing food for the mind and body. . . . You will doubtless see the journal I send by this op- portunity, and therefore I need tell you nothing of my movements. I am glad to find the Wolverhampton branch of the Dudley and Midland Geological Society flourishes. I sent to our old society from Hobarton an account of our ascent of the Peak; but as it was directed to H., and I see by the papers he was leaving town, I know not whether the Literary and Scientific Society ever got it. I should be happy to give you a paper for the Geological, if I did not think postage too heavy. Would a short sketch of the structure of a coral reef do, do you think, with a map and sections to be enlarged ? Talking of coral reefs, should anybody ac- cuse me of telling lies by saying there are coral reefs near Newfoundland, assure them I never meant to say IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT 3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 WilllM 1125 IM IIIII2.2 .1 m I4S iillO 1.4 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 C. L^- &?/ SS' i68 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 3m '1% ; ■■.!, so. I find such an assertion in my book at the end of the natural-history notes, but how it got there I know not. April 24. The vessel stood in need of some repairs, and is delayed till now ; and such a rotten ship is she, that it is doubtful, I think, if she reach her destination. But if you don't get zliis, pray avsiver it nevertheless. . . . Five years' exile appears now a long term to look forward to. But this will be my last lengthy trip, I hope ; I shall confine my ambition hereafter to the regions of railroad or steamboats, say Europe and North America. Well, it is now four bells in the first watch, which means that it is ten o'clock p.m. in our part of the world; and as I always, or generally, go ashore cat daylight to bathe, I find my eyelids rather drooping. I shall therefore conclude, and with hearty good wishes for your health, wealth, and prosperity, am very truly yours, J. B. Jukes. It will be seen in the following journal and letters that the Fly, after commencing her work at Sandy Cape, and surveying Swain's Reef and the Capricorn group of islands, anchored in Port Bowen, the appointed rendez- vous. From this place several boat - excursions were made in search of fresh water and to explore the coast, in one of which Captain Blackwood, Dr. Muirhead, auil COAST OF QUEENSLAND. 169 Mr. Jukes appear to have been almost in sight of the great river of Queensland, the Fitzroy, as they visited the south head of Port Bowen, towards which that river makes a curve. It was probably hidden from them by the range of hills which is mentioned as * everywhere terminating the view at the distance of ten or fifteen miles from the coast.' Port Bowen appears to have been the first point of the coast at which the Fly touched after leaving Port Stephens, and from that place their course lay to the north; so that the Fitzroy, which empties itself into Keppel Bay, about sixty miles south of Port Bowen, was not seen by them. In the abstract of the sailing orders issued by the Admiralty to Captain Blackwood, and given by Mr. Jukes in the * Voyage of the Fly,' the annexed passage relates to this part of the coast ; and Certainly ' a week or two,' if construed literally, would not have allowed time for much examination of its rivers and bays. ' As you have stated that during a former voyage you remarked a more than ordinary popu- lation on the coast of New South Wales about the lati- tude of 20°, from which you inferred a large tract of fertile soil, perhaps traversed by some considerable river, you are hereby authorised, when engaged on the Barrier Reef in that latitude, to devote a week or two to the examination of that district.' Since that time the extensive province of Queens- I70 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, land has been separated from !,Ld,t of New South Wales, Brisbane, its capital, being 7° south of the portion here included in New South Wales. Respecting this region, Mr. Jukes says in a note to the Voyage of the Fly: * After twice circumnavigating Australia, and visiting all its colonies, especially those of the southern coast, I lock back upon this tract between 22° and 20° with still higher expectations than before, and certainly have never seen any part of Australia, near the sea, of equal fertility, or of nearly so pleasant and agreeable an as- pect, or combining so many natural advantages.' It is needless to remark how fully these expectations have been fulfilled. The liver mentioned at page 191 on the west sido of Upstart Bay is probably that marked the Burdekin in the recent map of Queen; land published by Stanford. The following note on the geography of this part of Queensland has been kindly furnished by C. H. Allen, F.R.G.S., who lately passed some time in that colony : * It would be very easy to sail past Cape Capricorn and across Keppel Bay to the north without obtaining a sight of the Fitzroy, as it is necessary for vessels in- tending to enter that river to turn round and steer a course almost S.W., and the whole coast appears shut in by ranges of hill from 1000 to 2000 feet high. This river, the second largest in Australia, is navigable for steamers and vessels of 500 tons register for a distance THE FITZROY RIVER— JOURNAL. [71 of nearly forty miles, and at Roekhampton, the large town which has sprung into existence at the head of the navigation, there is a depth of twenty or thirty feet at the quays, whilst the river itself is about 400 yards in width at that point. Strange to say, this broad stream, which drains a district as large as all England, was discovered from the interior by one of the pioneer squatters of Queensland, who, in striking across coun- try northwards, wa^ pulled up by the river, and even- tually he succeeded in following its course to the ocean. * I notice also that the Fly does not appear to have entered or even FJghted the waters of the Pioneer River in latitude nearly 21°. The wonderful development of the sugar-growing industry in this part of Queensland fully bears out Mr. Jukes' estimate of the fertile district of country, which here extends for a great distance along the sea-board of the continent.' Journal, Nov. 24, 1842. Left Sydney. Nov. 27. Anchored at Port Stephens, where Captain King (he who was captain of the Adventure with Fitzroy) lives. Dec. 17. Left Port Stephens, and on the 28th an- chored at Sandy Cape or Breaksea Spit, where our work was to commence. We had some communication with a 172 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, tribe of natives here, but I was unwell, and did not see them. A trifling and temporary interruption to my usual robust state of health detained me on board till January 7, 1843, when I landed on one of a small group of coral islands called Bunker's Group. It was a low sandy island, about three-quarters of a mile across, with a circular reef stretching out three or four miles from it on the south-west side, enclosing a shallow lagoon of clear sea-water. The island was encircled by a belt of treeb, on which myriads of boobies and noddies built and roosted. They sat still on their nests within three feet of you, and even suffered themselves to be taken by the hand. Tern, gulls, and two kinds of cranes- one blue, like a heron, one pure white, with most ele- gant plumage — flew around us. Turtle in the greatest abundance were taken; and I found one in the wood sleeping, that suffered me to sit down on him without being disturbed. Turtle-soup, turtle-steaks, turtle-pie, and stewed flippers were our regular food for some time. Jan. 9 to 19. During this time we were engaged in surveying a new group of small coral islands, which we had discovered a little to the north of the Bunker's. We called them the Capricorn Group, as that tropin passes right through them. We had most lovely weather, and frequently landed on the islands, being generally obliged to wade to them over the reefs on which they TURTLE— CAPRICORN ISLANDS. 173 stood, sometimes lialf a mile, up to our middle in water. A coral reef is a very different, and in itself a much less interesting and beautiful object than I had expected ; neither are the colours of the living corals so splendid as is often said. The mass of the reef is a dark-brown, close, hard rock, with here a patch of white sand, and there a lump or a mass of lining corals, some of the smaller of which are grass-green, yellow, or red. I found also a calcareous breccia or limestone, made of fragments of shells or corals. When sailing among the islands, however, the reefs and the islands often formed most beautiful objects, as seen from the poops or mizzen-top. The little island^ crowned with trees, is surrounded by a smooth space of clear shallow water of a bright grass-green colour, round which is a narrow fringed margin of white foaming surf, sparkling in the sun, dividing the lagoon from the rich clear blue of the deep water outside. To those who have only seen the muddy waters of our own seas, the brightness and depth of colour of the clear ocean water, blue in the deep, green in the shallow parts, is almost incon- ceivable. If you can form in your mind's eye the picture I have endeavoured to draw, and add to it a nearly vertical sun and a sky without a cloud, with a little brisk refreshing breeze from the south-east, you will have a good idea of our Capricorn Group. You may add the Fly and the Bramble, with their white sails and 174 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. awnings, at anchor, and six or eight boats of different sizes, likewise fitted with white awnings, the men in white fii ks and trousers, sailing in different direc- tions, sounding, or carrying the surveying-officers ; and in the stern-sheets of one you may put me, with a white shooting-jacket, panama hat, luxuriant heard and moustache, gun, and collecting-basket. Jan. 19 and 20. A gale of wind, clouds, heavy sea. Jan, 21. Found a fragment of wreck on one of the mcst northerly islets, and on the trees were caned * The America, 1831,' ' Mary Ann Broughton, June 1831,' ' The Nelson, Captain E. David, Nov. 1831,' the soles of a pair of child's shoes, fragments of crockery, &c. We supposed that the America was wrecked in June, and that the crew, &c. had probably been taken off in November by the Nelson ; but where they pro- cured water we could not tell. There were no bones nor signs of graves. Jan. 22 to 27. Partly sailing and partly at anchor in an open sea north of the Capricorn Group, with heavy breezes and rough weather. Lost one anchor; but on 27th came within sight of more coral reefs with- out islands on them, supposed to be the southern ex- tremity of the Great Barrier Keef, which stretches hence to Torres Straits, a distance of 1000 miles. We anchored a little to the west of them, and here passed five very anxious and uncomfortable days, as it came on to blow FRAGMENTS OF WRECK—SWAIN'S REEF. 175 from the south west (an unusual quarter), and we had, from 28th to Feb. 2, the heaviest gales any one on board had ever seen within the tropics — with the reefs to leeward, a tremendous sea, and nothing to trust to but the goodness of our anchors and cables. The Bramble parted one cable, but luckily brought up with another before she drove on the reefs. Had she once touched on them, she would have gone just like a glass bottle thrown against a wall, and a few chips or broken planks would have been all we could have hoped to have seen of her. Feb. 2. What a relief ! A lovely morning, smooth, and clear skies. Up, top-masts, top-gallants, and royals ! Heave away on the capstan ; up with the anchor, and away we go again \ Feb. 3 fo 9. Kunning along and surveying outside portion of this reef (called Swain's Eeef). It consists of a chain of long oval reefs, with passages between them, into one of which we ran and anchored every night. Feb. 10 and 11. Tied by the nose, the anchor hav- ing caught under a coral rock; and we broke three hawse-pipes before we could get it up. Feb. 12. We now ran into the reefs, and during two days sailed through them by narrow channels towards the west, in order to rejoin the Bramble, who had left us on the 3d to run along the inside edge of the reef. 176 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Feb. 14. Anchored in Port Bowen (our rendezvous), where we found the Bramble. This place was visited by Flinders, and described by him as a good harbour, with fresh water — a thing we were beginning to stand in need of. We found it too shoal to get far in, and his fresh-water gully had only one hole just behind the sand-beach, containing a few gallons of dirty water. The country around was partly hilly and rocky, partly low and sandy, with no abundance of wood and no ap- pearance of verdure. It was, to be sure, mostly covered with wood of some sort, but it was poor and brown. We found on the slopes of the hills many gullies and watercourses, on the sides of which was good grass; but not a drop of water, and not a single living thing except grasshoppers, flies, beetles, and ants. Torrents must sometimes pour down here; but it was now the dry season. The shape of the country about was pic- turesque. Many lofty peaked ranges or detached hills in different directions, and at high water the bay was a spacious and noble sheet of water ; but at low tides it was nearly filled with sand and mud. . . . We stayed at Port Bowen till Feb 28, repairing damages and sur- veying the harbour. I shall, however, give one excur- sion in detail. Feb. 20. At eight o'clock in the morning went away with Captain Blackwood and Dr. Muirhead in captain's gig, with four men, to visit the south head of the Port. SEARCH FOR FRESH WATER. 177 We found it gradually narrowing and winding like a river among muddy flats covered with mangroves, but approaching the foot of a range of hills, from which we w^'o not without hopes of finding a river or some fresh- water stream. We saw a dense smoke rising in one or two places as we drew near the hills, apparently signal- fires. At half- past twelve, having sailed twelve or fifteen miles, we saw a little opening among the man- grove-bushes, where we were enabled to land, and got immediately on a small rocky mount, between which and a low ridge there was a native path. Taking our guns, we ascended this ridge, and saw that our water shortly ended among mangrove-swamps, without any river; but towards the south I saw water some miles ofi" among the trees. As it was worth while determin- ing whether this was fresh water or only the head of Shoalwater Bay, we determined to sleep here, and go towards it in the cool of the morning. Returning to our little jnount in the mangroves, we got our things out of the boat ; and while Frethy, the captain's cox- swain, prepared dinner, and the captain went to shoot curlew, the doctor and I took our guns to explore the country a little. At the back of the mangroves was a spndy flat or beach, along which a well-beaten native path led both north and south from our encampment. We went towards the south, and shortly came on recent footsteps of a man and a boy, who had evidently been N 178 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. following us along as we rowed, but had jumped aside into tV bush on our landing. We followed this track back a mile or two. The path crossed in one place a beautiful grassy flat with a watercourse running through it, now as dry as a bone. Beyond this we saw other tracks of four men running ; but they were one or two days old. Keturning to our camp, we dined ; but be- fore dark found the mosquitoes and sand-flies so annoy- ing, that we three determined to go some distance up the ridge to sleep, in hopes they would be fewer. Soon after dark, however, they attacked us again ; and we got up and made a great fire, and lay down in the smoke. We got no sleep till nearly twelve o'clock, when, just as we had dozed off", up started the dogs, barking and running backwards and forwards, and up started we in a deuce of a hurry, expecting a spear through our bodies. We all ran against each other looking for our guns, which were piled against a tree. It turned out to be Frethy coming to see if we wanted anything. After a hearty laugh we lay down again, but once or twice heard noises in the bush. Feb. 22. After a hasty breakfast by firelight, we made preparations for a start. Just as day broke, we heard a prolonged distant cooey in the v/oods. It had a harmonic tone, as if from several voices. We left two men, with orders to get everything into the boat, and shove off into the stream ; and taking the other two INLAND EXPLORATION. 179 with their muskets, a little biscuit, and a bottle of water, wo set oflf before six o'clock. We held a little to the N., and then struck into the woods and climbed some rocky hills two or three hundred feet high, having a deep narrow valley on our right. At the head of this valley we found another wide and more gradual one, opening to the W., and just in our line. Here we started two great kangaroos, but the only kangaroo dog with us (Blueskin) was not in sufl&ciently good condi- tion to catch them. We now proceeded down the val- ley, which was grassy open woodland ; and I shot a very pretty bird, which I think is a new species, if not a new genus. About five miles from our camp we came on a watercourse, in which was salt water, and pre- :eat]y after on mangroves, to which we could 'not see any termination except blue mountains in the distance lo^ond them. We got involved among muddy streams in crossing a part of these, and nearly stuck in the mud. As we knew now that it must be all salt water before us, we returned, and had some pleasant rain, which refreshed our hot bodies, as well as the parched earth and vegetation. We kept rather more to the left, and descended by a vaUey full of the most luxuriant grass. On getting to the beach behind our mangroves, the rain cleared off. About eleven o'clock we came in sight of our mount, and saw about fifteen black figures come trooping over it one after another, with spears i8o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. and waddies in tlieir hands, and post themselves at the edge of the mangrovee and wood, as if to oppose our progress. Captain B. laid down his gun and went for- ward to parley with them ; held up a green branch, and made signs of peace. As, however, they did not come out of the bush, he ordered us to advance, on which they slowly retired up the "idge. We took ofif our hats, chattered, imitated their cries, and made grimaces to them, in order to show we were friends. We counted seventeen of them. Having a common knife in my pocket, I gave it to one of them next me, and shook hands with him. They kept up a great talking, and seemed pretty good-humoured, but rathei distrustful and afraid of us. On coming to our camp, we found the two men with all the things safe in the boats, except the boat-stove and coppers, which the blacks had taken away. It appears that soon after we left, two natives came down and scouted, and went away again ; and that about an hour before we returned twenty suddenly sur- rounded them with brandished spears. Having got everything into the boat except the stove, which was both hot and heavy, they shoved oflf; but the natives swam off and surrounded them, trying to take the hoat sails and awning, but not proceeding to actual violence. One laid hold of one of the men's muskets, which, though cocked and pointed against his breast, he still pulled at. The men gave them bread — which, after ex- INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. i8i amining, they threw away — and prudently humoured tliem, forbearing to fire ; ior, as they said, they were so many they feared to fi;e and only kill one. While we were seated on the mount, lunching, and hearing this story, the natives were clustered outside the man- groves at the foot of the ridge, talking and laughing ; and one fellow sat on the branch of a tree watching our motions. Suddenly we heard the click of iron, as if they were moving our stove; and picking up our guns we rushed out, and saw it under a tree. Seeing us angry, they retired slowly; and pointing to the stove, we scolded them and shook our guns at them, and waved them away. This latter motion they understood ; for taking their spears, and two or three of them picking up fishing-nets (very neatly made like shrimp-nets), they pointed higher up the water, and went away, as if to go fishing; and the doctor, in the bene"volence of his heart, said he had no doubt they meant to bring us some fish. Everything was now perfectly tranquil and quiet for two or three hours ; when, having dined, and the tide having risen high enough to enable the boat to float, we prepared to go away. Half in joke, I said I should Hke to see them again ; and going to the front of the mount gave a loud cooey. To my surprise, it was in- stantly answered, and the chattering and jabbering be- gan as thick as ever in the old place, scarcely 100 yards from us. We now took a tin canister and a bottle or ^m 182 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. two as presents, and went to have a talk to them. They retired up the ridge ; hut on our showing them the presents, four or five gradually approached and took them, and we became pretty friendly. We sat down under the tree where we had slept, and five or six sat opposite, and we all commenced talking and laughing. We pointed to the a^hes of our fire, and made signs we had slept there last night ; on which they nodded their heads, as if they were fully aware of that. I then went through motions of drinking fresh water, imitated a kan- garoo and a corroherry dance — all which amused them, and they seemed to understand, and pointed in several directions; but we could not learn where the fresh water was. Presently an old gray-headed man came down, to whom they all pointed ; and calling him to- wards us, we put a red cap on his head. He bent for- ward his head with great gravity while we adjusted it, and as soon as it was on, he sat down by us with a very dignified air, taking no more notice of his own party, but talking in a low tone to the doctor, and pointing to our dogs, of whom they seemed afraid. Six or eight more fine young fellows, all armed, with white sticks through their noses, now came hastily up out of the mangrove bushes near our camp, where they had evi- dently been lying in ambush ; and the others rose and seemed inclined to press upon us. I accordingly, by Captain B.'s wish, picked up an oyster-shell, and calling FRIENDLY DEALINGS AND PARTING. 183 their attention, fixed it on a tree ; and making them all stand back, fired with ball, and luckily smashed the shell. At the sound of the gun, some in the rear half threw themselves down, but those in front stood firm, while I made signs that with this weapon I could kill them all. As they were now increased to twenty-four men, all great naked stalwart fellows, we thought it prudent to leave them while we were friends. But first I got a spear from a man who had had a knife given him, gently laying hold of the spear, and pointing to the knife repeatedly. He was rather reluctant to part with his spear, and laughed and shook his head, as much as to say, 'I'm afraid you're doing me,' but at last let me have it. On taking leave they imitated our waving hands, and we reiterated their cries ; they did not follow us down the hill, and after one or two farewell cooeys we rowed off, and got on board our ship soon after dark. On the 22d, the captain gave me a boat and a party to go and visit some hills up the western arm. This expp'^ition was chiefly remarkable, first, for the beauty of the view from a hill-top ; secondly, for the whole party being so entirely done up between 6 ajvi. and noon as hardly to be able to reach the boat. I was obliged to lie down on a rocky beach two hours, and get the boat sent after me. The rocky gullies, the heat and closeness of the woods, and the want of all water, this country very toilsome to travel in. . . . 1 84 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. March 4. The natives came to us unarmed, and quite peaceable. In the afternoon the ship came in sight, and anchored some miles off, it being very shoal ; and we continued here till the 13th, completing the water of the ship. During this time I made two excur- sions with Captain Blackwood, and we found a very rich grassy forest-land everywhere along shoie behind the mangroves, stretching to the base of a lofty and con- tinued chain of hills, which bound the view everywhere from the coast at the distance of ten or fifteen miles. There is no lack of fresh water ; and the greenness of the grass was delightful, after the living hay we had seen to the southward. March 13. Continued our course to northward sur- veying; and on the 14th, 15th, and 16th, I had another interesting cruise in his boat with Captain Blackwood, examining some deep bights, where we hoped for a river. They were noble harbours at high water, but at low tides unfortunately all dry sand or mud, the rise and fall of the tide being twenty-five feet here. As ports for anything but small craft accordingly they were worthless ; but the country around was not only very picturesque, but exceedingly fertile, rank green grass growing up to our middles, even on the tops of hills 300 feet high ; palms and other trees of tropical kind growing here and there in dense jungles, among woods matted by huge rope -like creepers and climbers. The LUXURIANT VEGETATION— MAN LOST. 185 general character of the wood, however, was open light timber. The rocks are all hard quartzose, gray wacke, porphyry, greenstone, &c. March 19. Anchored under Cape Hillshorough, a lofty promontory 900 feet high, which I scaled and found a singular variety of rocks. March 20. Away with Captain Blackwood exploring a bay; our pointer Don taken with a fit ashore, and nearly lost in the woods ; obliged to cut his ear open to bleed him. All the dogs done up from want of water and heat of weather and the incessant attacks of mos- quitoes. A snake, six feet three inches long, killed. March 21 to 25. Exploring the shores of Repulse Bay, and Whit-Sunday Passage up to Port INToUe. A fine harbour between the islands and the main, where we stayed till the 29th. We had here a melancholy occurrence. A man named Bowling, coxswain of the pinnace, and one of the best men on board, had been ill two or three days of a low fever ; his hammock was slung under the forecastle, and early on the morning of the 26th the man attending on him, having gone below to get a drink of water, came up again and found his ham- mock quite still, but presently after, on going to speak to him, it was empty. Search was made everywhere, but neither then nor since was he ever again seen. It is supposed he had seized the opportunity to get up and slip quietly out of the port with the intention of drown- 1 86 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ing himself. A very strong tide was running, and though the place was dragged, and search made along shore, his body was never found. March 30 and 31. Sailed along surveying, and an- chored under Cape Upstart. This is our appointed rendezvous to meet a vessel which was to sail from Syd- ney on the 20th of March, to bring us a supply of pro- visions and all our letters and papers up to that time. "VVe have now been four months without seeing a single soul but the few black fellows we have met, or hearing what the rest of the world is about. Cape Upstart is a bold eminence, 2000 feet high, with flat land inshore of it. It is rocky and barren ; but in a gully is what we prize above all things on this dry coast — some fresh water. During these four months rain has not fallen more than four times, perhaps thirty hours altogether. A bright blue sky, with a fresh cool breeze from south- east, continues day after day, so that we think it quite a treat to get a wetting in a shower of rain. A mean be- tween this climate and that of England would be per- fect. Nevertheless, this is very healthy. "We sleep ashore on an open beach without a fire, and if we take a coverlet, we take off our jackets and roll them up for a pillow. Even in the thick of the mangrove swamps- places which in Africa or the West Indies it would be certain death to stay a night in an open boat — we ex- perience no ill-effect, and our sick-list consists merely HEALTHY CLIMATE—SHIP NEWSPAPER. 187 of bruises or cuts, more especially among the men, cuts from corals or rock oysters on the feet when larding in a surf. The country too has had some variety in it : rich grass, hreast high and green, dark-green tropical jungle, with palm-trees and great tangled creepers. The greens are quite refreshing to the eye after the brown trees, brown rocks, and brown grass about Sydney. As to the morale of the ship, we are all as comfortable as can be expected. Little disagreements, either in the messes or between the authorities, occur occasionally, as in all communities, more especially where individuals are jammed together for months with little to divert their attention from each other's failings. We are united and pleasant in the gun-room, however, and I, as usual, am on excellent terms with everybody, like a prudent and well-behaved person. "WTien we left Sandy Cape a newspaper was established called the Circumnavigator, in which were some excellent articles, and most capital and humorous illustrations — really almost equal to Cruikshank's — from the pen of Melville our artist. These latter, however, have ceased, I am sorry to say. It ap- pears fortnightly, and I dose the lieges with papers on natural history, which, being full of hard names, are generally praised and passed over. Of course you have seen the comet. Aird and I saw it first, the night we anchored at West Hill in the pinnace on March 8d. It was then near the sun, and very magnificent, its tail i88 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. having a length of twenty degrees ; but now it is gra- dually fading in lustre. It must be a new one. I have madp a map of our course from Sandy Cape to Cape Upstart, as no maps you can get access to will give it you large enough. I shall enclose it if I can. A'pril 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. The rainy season has suddenly set in, commencing on the 3d ; very heavy and continu- ous rain. A'pril 6. The pinnace, which had been left behind under Ince and Aird to trace up the coast from Port Molle, came in. At one place the natives had attacked them with stones, and after much forbearance, Ince fired with shot, and wounded one. A'pril 7. I went away with the seining party, under Mr. Weeks the boatswain, to a bight four or five miles up the bay. The day was fine, but hot. When we landed, leaving them to haul the seine, I walked over a sandy point, and along the beach, shooting sea-birds. I heard a native cooey in some mangroves two or three miles ahead ; but catching sight of some very large and strange birds, as big as flamingoes, I went on, taking the precaution to load with ball. In about two miles I came on a creek which looked muddy, though shallow, and as the mangroves were thick, I took a long shot at the birds, and returned. I had scarcely walked twenty yards back, when a shout arose among the mangroves a quarter of a mile beyond me, on the other side of the SKIRMISH WITH NATIVES. 189 creek, apparently from a considerable body of natives, who had evidently been lying in wait for me. I returned the shout, waved my hat, and seeing our boat coming round the point two miles off, walked slowly to it, and told them the natives were out. I then returned to our landing place to lunch, understanding they (the men with the boat) were coming too. Without my know- ledge, however, they went on, and on coming to head of the bight, the natives came to them. Four unarmed came first, and a man named Hardy went and gave them a couple of fish ; more then came out, and seemed in- clined to surround him, on which he turned back. The moment he showed his back they threw the fish at him, and were rushing on him, when another man named Grub fired with shot, and dropped the foremost, on which they all ran, the wounded man scuttling through the shallow water on his hands and knees. Fifty or sixty then showed themselves on the beach, and our boat returned. I am very sorry I was not with them, as I could either have saved the effusion of blood, or should have been convinced of its necessity. With proper management, namely, confident and lively looks and actions, laughter and grimaces, I think I could have managed them. I go no more alone, however ; indeed Downes, my botanical assistant, would have been with me well armed, but was on the sick-list. A]^ril 8. Rain. 1 90 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, A'pril 9. Kain ; but our provision ship is arrived with papers and letters. Huzza ! U.M.8. Fly, inside Barrier Reef, Off Cape Weymouth, N.E. Coast of Australia, July 2, 1843. My dear a., — Before you receive this I trust you will have had a large packet from me, containing an abstract of my journal ... I shall therefore just go on as if I were sure you had had it. Since we left Cape Upstart, which we did the first week in May, we have been utterly alone, not having seen any vessels barring two wrecks on the reefs here. This morning, however, a sail was reported, and a large barque is now seen outside the reefs, looking for an entrance ; we have sent off 01 r whale-boat to pilot her in and bring her to an anchor near ua, and if she comes in safely, I hope to have letters read^'' to send by her. I will give you at once a succinct statement of our proceedings. May 2. After taking leave of our friends on board the William, which was going to sail from Cape Up- start the next day. Captain B., Ince, Harvey, and myself went away in the cutter with eight men and six days' provisions for a cruise. We had a pretty rough but tolerably interesting one, and returned to the ship on May 6. The principal incident was a very friendly in- BOAT-CRUISE FROM CAPE UPSTART. jqi terview with the natives at Cape Cleveland, who even brought their ladies to have a look at us. On May 10, the pinnace not being yet ready for sea, Captain B., Ince, and I set oiF in the whaler to find a river reported on the west side of Upstart Bay. We went up a long mangrove inlet, missed the river, but had another very friendly interview with a tribe of na- tives : seventeen men and three women sat by our fire all night. Having only one day's provisions with us, we were obliged to return. On May 13, Captain Blackwood offered me a boat to explore the real river, and I set off, taking Ince, Evans, and Melville with me. We had a narrow squeak cross- ing the bar at the mouth of the river, on which was a very heavy surf, but found a fine river inside.* After proceeding six or eight miles, however, it became too shoal to go farther except by much labour. A tribe of natives now came down, with whom we went a mi^e or two on foot ; in returning we nearly had a scuffle with them, but found the other friendly tribe at the boat. One of these friendly people had particularly attached himself to me the other night when they slept with us, sitting down at my head and keeping off the mos- quitoes ; and now when he saw me he came and em- braced me, making a cooing purring noise, and showing me to the others as /ws friend. We returned to the * This must have been the Burdekin. 192 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ship on the 15th, and on the 17th finally left Cape Upstart. On the 18th, we anchored at Goold Island, where we remained till the 1st of June. The natives here were all in canoes and at first very friendly, coming off to the ship, where they were very well treated, and had clothes, biscuit, &c. given them. I was here given the commiind of two boat expeditions. In the first. Shad- well and Porcher accompanied me, and we explored and surveyed an inlet cutting ofi" Mount Hinchinbrook from the mainland, and were away five days, three of which were very wet ; but by help of the rain awning, although in a small open boat, we managed pretty comfortahly. In the second, Ince and Pym went with me to explore an opening like a river (three other rivers having been found, but of small extent). In going in we were again nearly embroiled with a party of natives, and they be- gan to throw stones while we were bothered in shallow water. I was just aiming at one impudent rascal with a musket when Ince fired with shot and peppered one fellow, on which they desisted ; although, after picking out the shot and washing his breast and shoulders, the fellow did not seem to care for it. We found nothing but jungle and narrow mangrove creeks ; so on the third day we came out and went to a small island near, to wait for the ship, which was to pick us up next day. Here in the morning six black fellows came across in NATIVE BOLDNESS— ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 193 canoes, and after being disappointed in not receiving presents, they retired into the bush and came forward again, armed one with a spear and the others with stones, to attack us. We absolutely stared at their impudence, and laughed at them, as we were eight to six; to avoid the necessity of killing one of them, how- ever, we got under weigh and they followed, shouting iit us, along the shore. When a good distance off we fired alongside of them both with shot and ball, just to show them we could hurt them if we liked, on which they scampered off. On the vessel picking us up, we found that even our friends at Goold Island had at- tacked a boat the night before with spears and stones, without any provocation, in the most treacherous man- ner, and knocked down Mr. Weeks, the boatswain, with a stone, only desisting when one of their own number was wounded and another killed by the fire of our men. On June 4, I went with Captain B. and Bell to En- deavour Kiver, where Cook repaired his ship. I was glad to have seen the place of which I had so often read when a boy of ten years old, and which is a classic spot in the history of marine discovery. On the 6th, I slept wth Evans on the top of Lizard Island Peak, 1200 feet high ; nothing remarkable except the lovely new both of sunset and moonset, and sun rising over the mirror-like sea. We now took up the survey of the reefs some 194 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. twenty miles from land. They stretch in one continuous line of breakers, with only narrow openings here and there, at that distance along shore ; inside is smooth water about twenty fathoms deep, full of coral patches and sand-banks, outside of them the sea is unfathom- able, and the whole swell of the South Pacific Ocean, urged by the continual force of the trade-winds, bursts on their outer edge. Went ashore with Captain B. at Cape Melville, and sa\/ a party of seven natives, with whom we had a very friendly interview, but in shoving off they threw a spear after us from the top of a rock, which fell in the water near us. I confess I was rather savage, and should have shot one fellow had not Captain B. said, ' Don't hit him ; fire to the left ;' which I did, and out a twig off just over his right shoulder, on which he scampered. The spear was a very ugly wea- pon indeed, eight feet long, pointed and barbed with three barbs. June 24. The Bramble being ordered in to the main- land at Cape Direction, I jumped up from breakfast, and, only stopping for a pair of boots, got into a boat and on board of her, to have a cruise with Yule., her commander. The next day we anchored under Cape Direction. Two natives came alongside in a canoe, to whom we gave presents, and they were very friendly. Went ashore in two boats, taking five men with muskets to protect us, and ttvo in each boat with muskets to NATIVE TREACHERY— BAILEY KILLED. 195 mind the boati. I took Yule's double-barrelled gun — a nasty cheap Flemish piece, which by some care I got into as good order as possible. Dr. M'Clatchie had a pistol besides, while Yule, Pollard, and Sweatman were unarmed, carrying chronometers, sextants, &c. We went up a hill about 500 feet high, on which observa- tions were to be taken ; and after taking them observed five more natives, besides the two who had been on board, below about the boats. "We therefore descended. I cannot give you all the particulars of what followed ^\iihout entering into great detail, but in a rocky broken place I had directed the men in advance to halt for the stragglers, and had gone back to look for and protect Yule, who was lame, when I saw a black fellow brand- ishing his spear through the bushes at a man named Bailey, the last of our party. Shouting to him, * Come on !' I cocked and presented ; but, alas, both my bar- rels missed fire. The native flung his spear and pierced our man, and disappeared in a gully of jungle before any muskets could be brought up to bear on him, my piece again missing fire as he was running away. As soon as he was out of sight, on my trying it again, it went off. A distant shot at the villain on his emerging from the other side the gully was all the satisfaction we got, as we could see no more of them, and the country was too broken and sheltered for us to attempt scouring it with any success. The man Bailey lingered for three ig6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. days, when he died, the spear having gone through the hack-hone and part of the lungs. Bitterly did I regret not having my own gun, when I should either have prevented, or at least have revenged his fall. All for- hearance on our part is now hlown to the winds, and in any future interview the first suspicious movement will hring down instant punishment upon them. "We shall, however, have little to do with the shore; probably nothing at all, as at the end of this month we expect to knock off work and hear away for Port Essington, whence we shall go either to Timor or Java for refresh- ments, and then to Swan Eiver and Hoharton. We shall prohably he in the latter about October. The vessel has now got safely inside, and we are both run- ning to an anchorage under the reefs. All hands on board are pretty well and comfortable, with the excep- tion of some cases of rheumatism and lumbago among the officers, and some 4ight appearance of scurvy among the men. I have been constituted caterer of our mess, after Shadwell and the doctor had tried in vain to give satisfaction in that important office; and you would laugh to see me giving orders about dinner, taking lists of plate, glass, table-cloths, &c., settling matters with the steward, and bullying the cook, as in duty bound. I have just sent our compliments to the captain of the bark (whose name is Regia, i.e. the bark's name) and the gun-room officers of H.M.S. Fly, &c., happy to see ENJOYMENT OF A SAILORS LIFE. 197 nim to dinner, &c. &c. It being Sunday, the captain and two of the midshipmen dine with us, as is usual on board a man-of-war ; and our dinner will be preserved soup, do. salmon, roast leg of fresh pork, boiled shoulder of corned do., preserved jugged hare, peas-pudding, rice and preserved fruit tart, macaroni, cheese — Madeira, Tinto, and Cape hock, with bottled porter, being the fluids; so, you see, we don't starve, though we have been seven months at sea. Indeed, I can't say that I feel particularly anxious to go into port at all. With plenty of books and lovely weather, and occasional cruises in boats, I pass my days happily, and don't see any use in the rest of the world, except to bring us provisions and fresh water now and then and a few letters from home. I think I ought to have been a sailor, as I verily believe I should have made a good one and enjoyed the service much. If I had about 2000Z. per annum, I should just buy a good yacht, and live in her, cruising about the world here and there, according to the seasons, or as one place or another came into my fancy. You remember the work-box you fitted up for me ; it is very useful. I have learnt to sew with a thimble, and have actually darned two rents in a pair ofplaid trousers, with some neatness but more strength. I intended to have sent you another chart of our course, hut have not had time to construct one yet. And now farewell again. I need hardly tell you to give my kind- 198 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. est love to my mother, who I hope and trust continues as well as when I last heard from you. . . . Give my love to my kind friends in the ancient and dirty city of Brummagem; and with best love to yourself, believe me, my dear A., your ever affectionate brother, J. B. Jukes. H.M.8. Fly, off North Coast of Australia, Aug. 27, 1843. My dear a., — From July 3 to August 11 we were employed surveying the reefs, without anything parti- cular happening, except our touching at Murray's Island and having an interview with more than a hundred na- tives there. They have cocoa-nut trees there, though there are none in Australia, and they are altogether a different race from the Australians, living in cottages and cultivating yams, &c. We got a few things from tliem, and they were pretty friendly, though very noisy and clamorous. It was on that island that the two surviving boys from the wreck of the Charles Eaton were found. The Charles Eaton was the vessel in which young Clare of Wolverhampton and others were lost and eaten by tlie natives. On August 14, we landed at Booby Island, which is a bare little rock. We visited the post-office, but found nothing except a book containing notices of ships having passed. There were several such messages as. *Mrs. G. begs her kind love to the next lady passing BOOBY ISLAND ---PORT ESSINGTON. 199 through, hopes she has had a comfortable passage, as Mrs. G. has had, and will be exceedingly happy to see any lady passing through at her father's house, No. 15 street, .' One lady begged her * kind remem- hrance to the next lady passing through.' From Booby Island we entered on a calm tranquil sea and light ;vinds, forming a sensible contrast to the rolling' seas iind strong breezes we had had on the reefs. It felt, however, very hot. We landed at Port Essington on the 19th, stayed a week, and left yesterday morning. The land there is low, level, and for the most part dry and barren, except in the swamps. Captain M'Arthur, one lieutenant, and thirty-five marines have now been stationed there alone for five years, living in wooden houses and reed huts, with only two gardens, a few buffalo and goats, and an anni.al supply of hard bis- cuit, salt pork, and rum from Sydney. The climate is mostly fine and healthy, but during November, Decem- ber, January, and February continued rain and thermo- meter at 90°. Up to iihis year they had had no sick- ness ; but last rainy season having been very heavy and protracted, they are now all laid up with intermittent fever and ague, and look like yellow skeletons. The natives around them are all friendly and useful, as an exemplary punishment was inflicted on them formerly at Raffles Bay, close by, for their unprovoked hostility. There is some sporting round, but only fancy a five 200 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. years' existence in such a hole ! And yet our assistant- surgeon, Dr. Sibbald, has exchanged with Dr. Whipple, who was assistant- surgeon there, and now comes with us. As they were not able to give us sufficient fresh beef and vegetables, we are now going to Coepang, and thence, I believe, either to Flores, Sumbawa, or Lombock for refreshments ; and as a letter-bag will be sent from one of those places, I am, you see, preparing for it. We have now delicious weather ; the sea perfectly smooth, the ship quite steady, and yet slipping along six or seven knots an hour before a light easterly breeze, which tempers a little the heat of the sun, bring- ing it down to 82° in the shade, while in the sun it is over 90°; and this is one of the coolest months in the year here. So much for our proceedings. We are all well iu health, but longing for a little change, and for some intercourse with civilised society, and for news, from which we have now been absent more than nine months. We expect to arrive at Swan Kiver in October, and at Hobarton in November. Of course I am reduced to mere vague guesses as to your proceedings at home since October last, and can only hope all things are going on well. ... I do not know when I shall feel cold again — probably not for three or four years, when passing round Cape Horn on our way home. How I am to manage your winters, I do not know, for I find this SCENES IN ENGLAND RECALLED. 20I hot weather quite congenial to me now. I have visions of taking lodgings on my return in some old farmhouse a mile or two in the country, where perhaps I might keep a pony, smoke my pipe, read books, and commence old bachelor, passing a few months now and then on the Continent geologising, and eking out my income by occasional literary employment. Some such exist- ence seems likely to be my ultimate destination. It is the first time, however, I ever formed a plan for the future, and therefore the reality is likely to be exactly the opposite of all this, and I may be sent on a geolo- gical survey of Kamtschatka, or Guatemala, or the borders of the Caspian Sea. At all events, I shall have had quite enough of Australia. I hope you are having weather now at home somewhat resembling our climate here. If so, how beautiful England must be ! No coun- try equals it, even in this quality. The palm, the plantain, and the other far-famed trees of the tropics, are certainly surpassingly lovely, especially by blue clear waters, in perpetual sunshine, with perhaps noble hills rising behind them ; but their beauty is more like that of a picture to be looked at from a distance and at rest. A nearer view, when walking among them, most pro- bably shows a dry, dusty, parched up soil, or a dank swamp; woods either scanty and devoid of shade, or matted and tangled with parasitical plants, so as to be impenetrable. No green lanes, no shady walks, above TSi^ 2C2 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. all, no meadows, no lovely corners or smiling fields, such as England abounds in, and whose beauty is more easily felt than described. Still, even to relish English beau- ties, you should have been abroad. Then, how should you like tropical insects ? — to say nothing of myriads of ants in all trees, that either bite, sting, or smell most abominably; of cockroaches, of all sizes up to three inches long, swarming in all houses, beds, rooms, boxes, cupboards, bread-baskets, running over your dinner- table, or dashing into your plates and tumblers ; only think of the incessant buzz and fever-bringing bites of sand-flies and mosquitoes, obliging you when on shore to sleep in a muslin hive. To make up for all these discomforts, however, and ever consoling us for the heat of the day, how glorious is a tropical night, or a morning before sunrise ! — a cool clear sky, with a gentle breeze fanning your temples, and a delicious dew falling around you ; the stars sparkling like gems through the Hquid air, and the moonbeams glancing and flickering on the rippling water; and this not occasionally only, but night after night for months together. Well, I mean to leave a little space to announce our arrival at Timor, so I will now conclude. Give my mother my kindest love and remembrance ; I sincerely hope she remains as well as when I last heard from you ; but this I need hardly say. Kemember me very kindly to and . I hope you have had many TROPICAL NIGHTS— ARRIVAL AT TIMOR. 203 pleasant botanical rambles, and perhaps that you have even taken a hanimer to Setlgley or Dudley. I wish I could join you in one to-morrow, and skip back again. . . . Tell Browne and everybody else to write to me as fully and as often as they can ; never mind how much chit-chat or small-talk — it is all valuable here. 8ej)t. 18, 1843. We arrived at Timor on August 31, and spent four days there. It is a very beautiful island, and I enjoyed myself much, more especially as the geology was very interesting. It was a much more fa- vourable specimen of tropical scenery than I had seen before, and the costumes and manners of the Malays were striking and picturesque. We got there a suf- ficient supply of fowls, beef, vegetables, and fruits, so, without visiting any of the other islands, we sailed at ouce for Swan River. We expected to have reached that place on the 25th, but have unexpectedly had foul winds, and we are not yet more than a third of the w;i,y. There was no vessel at Coepang, so I could not send my letter. Indeed, they had had no communication from Batavia (their headquarters) for seven months, and the only news they had was from English vessels from China. Swan River has but little communication with Europe, none at all with Van Dieman's Land or New South Wales, but a good deal with India ; so I suppose my letter will reach you from that port, via, Bombay. 204 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Sept. 24. "We are just now in cliase of a schooner (when within a week's sail from Swan River) which ap- pears to he going to India. If so, we shall send a letter- bag to her, and I shall enclose this. . . , Half-way House near Woraloo-road to Toodgoy, Swan River, Oct. 11, 1843. My dear Browne, — I wrote to A. not long ago by a Dutch schooner that we met at sea, but as there is a vessel leaving this shortly for Bombay, I mean to give you a screed hastily. We arrived at Swan River on September 30, but ever since then I have been engaged with one round of invitations at Freemantle and Perth. Yesterday I set ofif on horseback for a fortnight's in- dependent cruise, and am now in a small half-built inn with two settlers (one drunk), where we have taken shelter for the night. I overtook them on the road, driving some very fine horses into the interior. I have been very much pleased with what I have seen of this settlement : abundance of excellent land, fine corn- fields, good gardens, and a superabundance of stock. What they complain of is the want of money, having no market to dispose of their surplus in. They are greatly in want of emigrants, especially small or large capitalists. It is not a place to make a fortune, but an admirable one to get an independence, and the SWAN RIVER— EXCURSION INLAND. 205 people are all clean and respectable-looking. We have been revelling in freah beef and vegetables after our ten r '^nt'is' cruise. We shall sail from this about the 26th for Hobarton, where I hope to get letters from you all. The climate here is delicious ; fine fresh air, ther- mometer between 50° and 60 , with refreshing showers, and everything green and beautiful. The woods are enamelled with most lovely flowers, and although a broad belt of rocky hills, forty miles wide, occurs where I am now, running parallel to the coast about twenty- five miles from it, the country on each side of this is in general equally excellent for agricultural purposes and picturesque in aspect. Of course some privation of accustomed comforts and luxuries must be submitted to by the young settler, more especially that of society, as there are only 5000 people in the whole district of 500 miles long by 300 wide. One great drawback is the abundance of fleas. A new house, or one unin- habited for only a couple of weeks, absolutely swarms with them, so that white trousers are entirely mottled on coming out, and even the greatest care fails to eradicate them utterly, and they are so sharp. I am on my way to Mr. Drummond's, a great botanist, with whom is now Gilbert collecting birds for Gould ; they are going an excursion of 200 miles into the bush, and I shall accompany them part of the way, and then go to York, where is to be a fair and races on the 20th. :tt-.. 206 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. The place does not seem to be very interesting geo- logically, but I shall have a pleasant jaunt, as I have such a nice old horse — a regular old bushranger, nearly thoroughbred, a great runner of races, and comes to me when I call him. The surveyor-general lent me some saddle-bags, and I take a feed of corn, and some bread- and-cheese and brandy, and a head -stall and tether rope, with a cloak, to make us both comfortable should we miss our way in the bush. . . . They have just brought in three kangaroos, one of which seems re- markable, and I am getting a boy to skin it for me. I dined off kangaroo steaks, and very capital they are. How get on all the good folks and my old jpaZs in Wol- verhampton — B. and C. and R., and the Geological So ciety ? Pray tell them all I should be delighted to hear from them. I fully intended to write a long letter h::d I had the room to myself, but under the circumstances I cannot. . . . Give my best love to my mother and sister, and all other friends, and believe me ever yours most truly, J. Beete Jukes. SECOND CRUISE. 1843-46. Abstract of voyage — Arrival at Hobarton — Visit to Great Swan Port — Sydney — Sir C. Hardy's Islands — Building a beacon on Raine's Islet — Wreck of tlie Archibald Campbell — Surveying Endeavour Straits — Coast of Sandalwood Island — Sourabaya —Excursion to the interior of Java — Beauty of the country — Courtesy of the chiefs — Torres Strait and Islands — Natives of Murray and Daruley Islands — Coast of New Guinea — Hostil- ity of the natives — Houses of the inhabitants — Return to Port Essington — "Wrecked crews and passeng. - from India — Sin- gapore — Malacca — Return to Sydney — Accui. olation of letters —Orders for home — Bass's Straits, Abstract of the Voyage. The Bramble remained a fortnight after us at Swan River to complete her refitting and endeavour to re- cover some deserters ; and on sailing, her commander, Lieutenant Yule, undertook to carry round some specie for the Colonial Government to King George's Sound. In entering this port and heating through the narrow entrance to the inner harbour, she unfortunately grounded on a rock, where she remained four days. It blew hard during part of the time, and after suflfering considerable damage to her bottom, she beat over it. She arrived safely, however, in Hobarton, though very leaky; was hove down at Port Arthur and partially repaired, but was obliged to be taken on to the patent slip on her arrival at Sydney. On January 8, 1844, we 208 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. left Hobarton again, and anchored at Sydney on the 13th. As Captain Blackwood had determined on the erection of a beacon on Raine's Islet to mark the en- trance of a good passage through the reefs, he, in obedience to his orders from the Admiralty, applied to the Colonial Government for assistance. The colony, however, was in such a very depressed condition at that period, that the only assistance that could be afforded was the loan of twenty picked convicts, chiefly masons and quarry men, and of a small revenue cutter, the Prince George. This, together with the repairing of the Bramble, the purchasing and selecting and stowing away of the large quantity of materials, tools, imple- ments, wooden houses, &c., and the increased quantity of provisions we required, detained us in Sydney till March 27. We then sailed, and after touching at Port Stephens we rendezvoused at Sandy Cape, where we completed our water from an abundant supply immedi- ately behind the beach, about seven miles within the point of the Cape. We then passed through the Capri- corn Group, and the Percy and Northumberland Islands, to Cape Upstart, making some additions to our previous surveys by the way. At Cape Upstart we again filled our tanks and water-casks ; and after experiencing a good deal of blowing weather along the north-east coast, we com- menced landing the stores on Raine's Islet on May 27. ABSTRACT OF VOYAGE. 209 As soon as the party was landed and the houses and tents put up, a quarry was opened at the eact end of the island, near the spot selected for the erection of the beacon. The stone was a coral-rock — an agglutinated mass of grains and fragments ot i-orals and shells. It worked easily into square blocks, and promised to he sufficiently durable. The lime was procured by burn- ing the large shells of the tridacna and hippopus, which were to be got in abundance from the reef at low water. One or two wells were sunk in the island ; but no fresh water was procured, although in one of the W3lls, at a depth of sixteen feet, the water was only brackish, * and could be used to slack the lime, though very unpalatable to the taste. As there was no anchorage near the island, the Fly had to lie about twelve miles off to the south- west, behind the reefs of the Barrier ; and the Bramble, the Prince George, the Midge, and the boats were employed in running backwards and forwards with provisions, stores, wood, and water. Wood had to be sought for on some of the islands near the main, as large quantities were used in burning the lime ; and water was procured from Sir Charles Hardy's Islands, where small dams had been erected at the end of the valleys, to catch all that trickled down them. Beams of wood required in building were procured from the wreck of the Martha Kidgeway, which was lying on the reefs some twenty-five miles to the southward of the Ml 210 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Fly's anchorage. By the middle of September the party on Raine's Islet, which was under the charge of Lieutenant (now Commander) Ince, had completed the beacon. This was erected after the design of Mr. Moore, the carpenter of the Fly. It is a circular stone tower forty feet high and thirty feet in diameter at the base, where the walls are five feet thick. Internally it was divided into three stories, each of which was partially floored and made accessible by a ladder. It was roofed at top by a dome-shaped frame of wood, covered by painted canvas. Its summit was thus raised seventy feet above low-water mark. A large tank taken from the Martha Eidgeway was placed at the side, into which a series of spouts were led from the roof, so that it would shortly be filled with rain-water. Cocoa-nuts, supplied by Mr. Macleay of Sydney from his hothouse, pumpkins, maize, and other plants were set in a garden, and had begun to grow and flourish when the Fly left. During the latter part of this time — from Aug. 14 to Sept. 25 — the Bramble was employed surveying Endeavour Strait ; and a good part of the ground between Endeavour Strait and Eaine's Islet opening, was likewise surveyed by the Fly, the Prince George, and the boats. An abundant supply of water was discovered at Cape York, which was then and after- wards very useful to us. On Sept. 21 the Fly left Endeavour Strait, touched ABSTRACT OF VOYAGE. 211 at Port Essington on the 27th, remaining five or six days, and then sailed for Sourabaya in the island of Java. She arrived there on October 19, and was shortly joined by the Bramble and Prince George. The latter was dispatched to Singapore to take there some ship- wrecked people, whom we had picked up among the reefs, and to carry and receive letters and despatches. She returned to Sourabaya on January 4. On January 14, 1845, the Fly and the Bramble sailed from Sourabaya, to return to Torres Strait with the north-west monsoon, leaving the Prince George to fol- low as soon as she had completed her refitting. We had very heavy weather at first. After a vain attempt to pass through the Strait of Lombock, owing to the strength of the current setting to the northward, we got through those of Alass, and again reached Port Essington on January 27. On February 4, we sailed for Endeavour Strait, and anchored in the entrance of it on the 10th. From this time to April 19 we were engaged in surveying the central and north - eastern parts of Torres Strait, and succeeded in laying down an excellent track for shipping — round the northern extremity of the Great Barrier Keef, through the inner reefs and islands, to the entrance of Endeavour Strait. On April 19^ the Bramble was sent to try and make her way along the eastern coast of Australia to Sydney. This, being against the trade wind, had only been twice 312 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. attempted before — once in the Zenobia, by Captain Lihon, who succeeded with great difi&culty ; and once this very season, by a schooner called the Heroine, Captain M'Kenzie, the success of whose attempt we were as yet unaware of. Lieutenant Yule not only succeeded, but added 120 miles to the survey of the Barrier Keef, continuing it from Lizard Island to the southward as far as lat. 16° 40^ In the mean time the Fly and Prince George went to explore a part of the coast of New Guinea, to the north and east of Torres Strait. Having surveyed as much of this as was possible, owing to the difficult and dangerous nature of the navigation and other untoward circumstances, we were obliged on June 2 to close our labours from want of provisions, and proceed to Port Essington for a supply. We arrived at Port Essingtou on June 12, and found there seventy people, who had been wrecked in coming up from Sydney to Torres Strait. These formed the principal part of the crews and passengers of two large merchant-vessels, the Hy- derabad and the Coringa packet. They had reached Port Essington in their boats. As the small military post ofPort Essington could not support this population long, and no other vessel was likely to put in for some months, we were under the necessity of carrying them up to Singapore. The Prince George, after being par- tially refitted, was sent round to Sydney, taking a few ABSTRACT OF VOYAGE. 213 of the wrecked people who wished to return there ; and on June 18 we sailed with the remainder in the Fly, and arrived at Singapore on July 5. Sir Thomas Cochrane, the admirp^ of the station, being now at Malacca, we went up there to communi- cate with him, and then returned to Singapore. We left that place on August 3, and beat down against the trade wind through the Strait of Banca to Anjer in the Strait of Sunda, where we remained Au- gust 19, and sailed on the 20th. The south-east trade carried us to south lat. 30° 15', east long. 89° 05', and strong south-west winds took us into Bass's Strait, and thence to Sydney, where we anchored on September 25. We here found orders awaiting us, directing the Fly to come home, but Lieutenant Yule in the Bramble to continue the survey with, if possible, a colonial vessel as her consort, under the command of Mr., now Lieu- tenant, Aird. The Fly, having rubbed her bottom against some of the coral reefs, was hove down and examined, and a small schooner called the Castlereagh was purchased for the Government, and fitted out as the Bramble's consort. These arrangements detained us till December 19, when we left Sydney on our voyage home. We passed through Bass's Straits, and touched at Port Philip on December 19, and remained till January 11, 1845. On January 15, we anchored in Holdfast 214 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Bay, South Australia, and remained till the 22d. On February 10, after a stormy passage, with strong con- trary winds in rounding Cape Leeuwin, we anchored in Gage's Koads, Swan River, and remained a week. On February 19, we sailed, having Mr. Hutt, the late go- vernor of Western Australia, as a passenger, and arrived in Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, on April 6. On April 15, we again sailed, touched at St. Helena on April 30, and anchored at Spithead on June 19, after an absence from England of four years and eleven weeks. H.M.S. Fly, Hobarton, Nov. 26, 1843. My dear Bkowne, — I am sorry to hear so many of our old friends are dispersed. If we return by the Cape, I shall most certainly look out for Russ, but I think we are more likely to go round the Horn. I am here full of geological work, and return five nights a week with a great bag full of fossils from the adjoining hills. On Tuesday I go up Mount Wellington, a lofty bluff nearly 4000 feet high, just at the back of the town. You cannot conceive more beautiful scenery than some of this country. I went up the Derwent about thirty miles the other day, with three carriages of ladies and gentle- men, and a young lady and myself on horseback, to see a fossil tree at a Mr. Barker's, and danced afterwards in a white shooting-coat till one o'clock in the morning. SECOND VISIT TO GREAT SWAN PORT. 215 Sir E. Wilmot, the new governor here, gives a fancy- dress ball on Friday next, to which I go as a lieutenant of the navy, borrowing a uniform from one of my mess- mates. I expect a capital lark. I am going to Laun- reston on December 3, and return on the 9th ; and on the 15th I am going to escort Miss M. and another young lady over the hills down to Great Swan Port. We all go on horseback — a three days' journey, and part of the way rather rough work than otherwise. I shall not stay with Mr. and Mrs. Meredith more than four days, however, as the captain wishes us all to dine together on Christmas-day, and we sail soon after that for Syd- ney. I believe we shall make a short trip from Sydney, this time going across to New Caledonia and back in a month, and then setting off for the reefs again. We want to keep a magnetic term in New Caledonia. Cap- tain Blackwood hoped this morning that we should have done our work this time two years ; so that by the time we have replied to a few more letters each, you may be looking forward to my reappearance among you. Where I shall pitch my camp, or what I shall do, I have DO very distinct foresight. ... I shall be too old, and have been too much accustomed to wander at my own wild will, to follow your good example or submit to the restraints of a regularly civilised life ; for I fear I should begin to sigh for the freedom of the open seas or trackless woods of a wild country. But, as * Billy* 3X6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. says, * We know what we are, but we don't know what we shall be.' . . . Instead of subscribing to any newspaper, since the Staffordshire Examiner is knocked up, you can send me now and then one of the old Chronicle, or any other local paper which may contain anything interesting, though even the advertisements remind me of home, and thus are interesting. Andrews' roller-blinds, Dakin's tea-warehouse, or Sidney's haberdashery, are all inte- resting in my eyes at the antipodes, and have a home feeling about them, so that while reading them I forget the thousands of miles between. — With best love to my mother and A., believe me your affectionate brother, J. B. Jukes. H.M.S. Fly, Sydney, New South Waks, Jan. 20, 1844. My dear a., — We arrived here this morning, and soon after anchoring I received your long and welcome letter. I am delighted to find you so happy. Long may your pleasure continue uncontaminated by care ! ... Your tour must have been a delightful one, but I wish you could have gone to Minchinhampton, as the view there is magnificent — one of the finest I ever saw. ... Do not be alarmed at anything Mrs. M. said of my talking of settling out here. It must have been merely in joke, as a settler's life would never suit me ; TASMAN'S DA Y— BUSHRANGERS. 217 unless, indeed, I got an appointment as geological sur- veyor, or something which admitted of frequent change of place. Now, moreover, when one great cloud of dis- tress and ruin seems to have settled down upon these colonies, settling would be madness. . . . I will now give you a resume of our doings, or rather mine, since my last letter to Alfred. On December 1, the Tasmanians had a grand day, called Tasman's-day, that being the date of the discovery of the island by Tasman in sixteen-hundred-and-something. There was a great regatta, and in the evening a fancy-dress- ball at Government House. The latter was really a very splendid affair, the dresses being generally much more magnificent and correct than I should have imagined. On the 3d, I set off on horseback for Great Swan Port, which I reached in two days ; pretty hard riding over such a country — one hundred miles of rocks and bush. I only stayed five days, and then rode back with C. Meredith. They had made some improvements, but had been again visited by floods. ... A great many bushrangers were out, and they had attacked houses, &c. In one instance only were they successfully op- posed, when one man was killed and two wounded ; but we left Mrs. M. under some apprehension of a visit from them in C.'s absence. I travelled without arms, as the safest method, intending, if I fell in with them, to make a bow, and say, ' Gentlemen, help yourselves,' 2l8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. After returning to Hobart, I did not again quit it, ex- cept on a boat-excursion to Port Arthur On January 8, we left Hobart, and went to Port Arthur to join our consort, the Bramble, who only came to Hobart from Swan River on December 10, a month after us, having struck on a rock on St. George's Sound, and been nearly wrecked, lost her rudder, keel, &c. She had been repaired 'pro tern, at Port Arthur. Here we passed four or five very gay days. As I give you accounts of our rough life when on a cruise, it is but fair I should give you a hint as to the gaieties we have to encounter when in port. I am, indeed, tired of them, and long to be ofi" once more out of reach of the distrac- tions of society. We shall, however, remain here a month, while the Bramble undergoes a thorough repair in dock. We shall then sail for New Caledonia, and remain there six weeks ; then explore some detached reefs, and return to Sydney in June or July. Then off again, run along the Barrier Reefs and south coast of New Guinea, and perhaps refit in India or Ceylon ; so far is a probable programme of the next twelve or eighteen months. H.M.8. Fly, Sydney, March 4, 1844. My deab Atjnt, — . . . After I wrote to you last, I made a flying visit on horseback down to Great Swan Port, and spent a few days with Mr. and Mrs. Meredith. REPAIR OF THE BRAMBLE. 219 I heard from them lately, and they seem (at least Mrs. M.) to be troubled with the fear of bushrangers. Indeed, all persons now in the country in Van Dieman's Land must live as in a state of siege, not knowing the hour of the day or night when they may be attacked by an armed gang of ruffians. On Dec. 10, the Bramble came into Hobarton in a terrible state. She had stayed behind us at Swan River, and before leaving was requested by the Government there to carry round some money to King George's Sound. In going into that place she struck on a rock in a gale of wind, and remained four days on it. She lost her rudder, keel, and great part of her bottom planking ; and if she had not been extra strong, must have gone to pieces. She is now on the patent slip undergoing repair. This great detention has caused an alteration in our plans ; and our former design of spending this month in New Caledonia is given up. Our programme now is to sail hence in a fortnight, taking a small cutter, called the Prince George, and thirty convicts, stone-cutters and masons ; to anchor near Raine's Islet on the Barrier Reef, and land a party to build a great tower for a beacon, as the mark for our best passage through the reefs. "While the Fly is anchored there, the Bramble and cutter will proceed to explore the S. coast of New Guinea, during the months of June, July, and August. We then rendezvous at Port Essington, and in all probability shall go to Sin- 220 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. gapore to refit. Then sail again through Torres Straits with the last of the westerly monsoon — a passage never before attempted — and shall then, I conclude, refit in Sydi xor the last time at the end of the year 1845. . . I have made acquaintance with George Bennett, the naturalist, who is a surgeon here. I never met a more delightful person. His house is quite a treat, so full of hooks, pictures, prints, and all that is interesting. I go with him and Gilbert (Gould's agent and collector) to look at some gigantic birds' bones from New Zealand this evening. . . . M-'rch 9. I was much interested with a sight of the bird nes, which are in very perfect prescrvati u. I believe they are going home to Owen. I dispatt "(\ a large case of plants and bird-skins the other da^ 'o Gray and Brown of the British Museum, and have four or five large cases of rocks and fossils in the commis- sariat stores here. I anticipate an interesting, though arduous, cruise on the New Guinea coast. The only drawback is the difl&culty and danger of landing. The natives are armed with bows and arrows, and are nu- merous and hostile. We shall, however, go well pre- pared for them. Pray tell everybody how I should prize letters ; the merest chit-chat is valuable at the antipodes. . . Your ever affectionate nephew, J. B. Jukes. HOME ANTICIPATIONS. 221 We have not a particularly pleasant prospect this cruise ; for, in addition to the hard work, we have the probability of having to live on ship's allowance only. HM.8. Fly, Sydney, March 20, 1844. My dear Mother, — I will not let another letter go liome without assuring you how glad I was to see your handwriting once again, and to hear how well and com- fortable you are. When I say are, I can hardly help thinking of the lapse of time since I am sure that such was the case, but am unwilling to believe that anything has occurred to render it necessary to say ivere. In the mean time I am as happy as I can be away from you all, constantly in pleasant society, with frequent change of scene and place, and that continued gentle excite- ment which seems necessary to my disposition. I fear great part of 1846 will have passed a^^ay before we see again the shores of Old England, when I hope to pass some quiet resting-space with you, at all events before undertaking any other expedition, even if I do not alto- gether set up my rest in some country corner, and com- mence old bachelor for life. I hope the many letters I have sent home will have arrived safely. . . . If you and A. are happy, I feel that I have little else in the world that can seriously annoy me. And now, my dear mother, for another six months' farewell. 232 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. May you retain and increase your health and strength, and have many happy evenings to listen to my adven- tures on my return, is, I need hardly say, the sincere wish and hope of your ever affectionate son, J. Beete Jukes. At anchor off Douhle Point, north of Rockingham Bay, N.E. Coast of Australia, May 9, 1844. My deab a., — According to promise, I hegin a let- ter for you to he taken on by the first ship we may hap- pen to fallen in with. We left Port Stephens April 7, and had a stormy passage up to Sandy Cape, where we remained several days waiting for our consorts, the Bramble and Prince George. We then passed through the Capricorn Group and Percy Islands with more dirty weather ; and after filling up some blanks in our survey about Whit-Sunday Passage, we anchored for four days at Cape Upstart to complete our water. We sailed thence the day before yesterday, and are now lying at anchor, in consequence of the thick stormy weather not allowing us to see very clearly. It is not nearly so fine a season as last year was, but I hope it will improve shortly when we get to our work. Nothing remarkable has occurred since we left Port Stephens, except the death of a man on board the Bramble from typhus fever, DISCOMFORTS ON BOARD. 223 of which we have had one or two cases. As I did not get any more letters before we left Port Stephens, I am in statu quo as to intelligence from you, and suppose I must remain so until our return from the coast of New Guinea A ship of this class, however pleasant a habitation in fine weather, in heat and wet is very dis- agreeable. Boxed up in small cabins, with all the sky- lights down to exclude the rain, which, nevertheless, vdW find its way in by some crevice or other, you alter- nately rush on deck to escape suflFocation, and dive down below to avoid drowning. Then there is no place to dry clothes ; and if you take off wet ones, you are ob- liged to keep them reeking and steaming alongside of you. Every place becomes at last damp, dirty, dingy, steamy, sticky, muggy, and miserable. There ! there is a drop of water will fall on to my paper, so I shall shut it up till finer weather. May 26, off Sir Charles Hardy's Islands. Our bad weather continued for several days, during part of which, however, we lay at Lizard Island, where we got some pretty good quail-shooting. We then ran down inside the reefs, and I spent one night on board the wreck of the Martha Ridgeway on the edge of reef in the midst of a foaming surf miles in extent. We were two days on boarl, getting out her tanks and other matters that will be useful to us on Raine's Islet. We then ran down to tliese islands, where we have been five days rating chro- 224 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. nometers and keeping a magnetic term day. This morn- ing at daylight, as we were going to sail, I went ashore for the last hathe, and while swimming in the water, saw the ship hoist her ensign, and signal the Midge to get under weigh. I immediately concluded some vessel must he in sight, and on getting on board, found two ships had been seen from the mast-head. They are now not more than four miles to leeward of us ; and as it is highly probable we shall communicate with them, I am rattling off this letter to be ready for them. The weather has become finer, and if we succeed quickly in getting the enormous quantity of lumber out of the ship on to Raine's Islet, I still hope we may run down to New Guinea, though we now look upon that as douht- ful, for this cruise. Our lumber consists of twenty con- victs, and an immense quantity of plank timber, houses, barrows, jumpers, pickaxes, spades, and all manner of building, digging, and blasting materials. All these will have to be carried in boats through a heavy sea six miles, as the ship cannot anchor nearer Raine's Islet than that. I expect this will take us two or three weeks, as twenty of our crew are to be landed, and pro- visions and water for forty men for three months are no trifling weight. The bread alone will be 2500 lbs. Whatever may be our ultimate course, however, we are pretty certain of being at Singapore in October or No- vember. The ships have bore up, hang them ! and as RAINKS ISLET— BEACON. 225 we cannot afford to run leeward after them, this oppor- tunity is missed, so I must keep this scrawl for the next. Farewell for the present. May 29. Off Kaine's Islet. I went in the Bramble this morning to Kaine's Islet, and while wading out on the reef in search of corals and shells, two ships were reported hove to near the Fly, eight miles down to lee- ward. I got on board just now wet through, and so tired I can hardly keep my ey^-s open. The vessels are from Hobarton, but bring us no news. They sail at daylight. We have terribly hard, heavy, disagreeable work landing things on this little desolate islet, but hope finally to accomplish our object in building a beacon pretty well. And now, my dear A., with kindest love to my mo- ther, yourself, Alfred, and all friends, you must accept this hasty scrawl from your very tired but very affec- tionate brother, J. Beete Jukes. Barrier Reefs, Raine's Islet, long. 144°, lat. 11° 45', June 21 [shortest day), 1844. My DEAR Aunt,— . . . . We left Sydney March 27. Our cruise so far has not been at all interesting. We have had much bad weather ; and as our principal object was to get here to get rid of our convicts aixd cargo of Wilding-materials, we did not stop to visit any new 226 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. places or make explorations. On May 27, we came in sight of Raine's Islet, on which we were to erect our beacon, and had several days' veiy hard and disagreeable work landing our cargo. Raine's Islet is a little low sandy coral island about 800 yards long by 400 broad, surrounded by a coral reef, which on one side stretches oflFhalf a mile. It is at the entrance of one of the widest and clearest openings through the Great Barrier Reef, which is, along this part, out of sight of land. No part of Raine's Islet is more than twenty feet above high-water mark; our object, therefore, is to build a tower about fifty feet high and twenty or thirty in diameter, as an object to be seen by ships steering for the passage, and prevent their mistaking any other opening for this, or running beyond it. I am happy to say that my report on the stone has been borne out. Good building stone is pro- cured in abundance, wooden houses and tents are erected, lime is made, the foundation stone laid, and the first course of masonry nearly complete. Lieu- tenant Ince, with a party of forty men, occupies the island and superintends the work. ... On May 6, as I was wading about on the coral reef, having visited the island for a few days, a brig called the Archibald Campbell came through and anchored near the Fly. I should have mentioned that there is no anchorage near the island except for very small vessels, as the coral reef plunges down into IGO fathoms at once, and WRECK OF THE ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL. 227 the nearest anchorage ground is eight miles off, under the lee of the Barrier Keef . A cutter called the Prince George, lent to us hy the Colonial Government, is the packet and medium of communication between the ship and the island. On June 13, however, the Prince George was ordered into the mainland to get a cargo of wood, and I went with her. As we approached the coast, we saw a vessel aground upon one of the many reefs that lie scattered about inside the Barrier, and on running down to her, found the unfortunate Archibald Campbell, which had passed us only seven days before, hard and fast. By the culpable negligence of the mate, she had been run upon this reef the afternoon of the day on which she left the Fly. The captain of her was now gon« away in the long-boat to try and communicate with the Fly, having been previously driven back when attempting to reach her in a whale-boat. There were on board of her Mr. Smithers, the owner, and his wife — a young lady to whom he had only been married two days before they left Sydney — Captain Kichmond of the Bombay army, and Mr. M'Arthur, besides the remainder of the crew. They were, of course, very glad to see us, as they were now sure of being taken from the wreck before their pro- visions and water were consumed. Their brig was now nard and fast, upright, though bilged, and nearly dry at low water — there was therefore no immediate danger ; i 228 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. so after concerting measures for taking them off on our return, we went on to execute our instructions. That afternoon we anchored under a little island called Sun- day Island, in Margaret Bay, where, finding wood enougli for our purpose, we determined to give up going to the mainland, where we should find natives, and he obliged to shoot them or get speared ourselves. We accord- ingly in two days laid in our cargo, and on the 17th returned to the wreck. In the mean while the captain of her had reached the Fly, and'the Bramhle and Midge had come down and taken the passengers away, leaving the captain and crew to get up the cargo, consisting princi- pally of hrandy and champagne. On the 19th, we got hack to the Fly, and found all well. We shall have now accordingly a considerable addition to our mess until another ship comes through, by which the castaways can proceed to India Everything having been put in train for completing the beacon, we expect to be ready to set out in the Bramble and Prince George on July 2 for the south coast of New Guinea, leaving the ship to support the island party, and survey the tract be- tween this and Torres Straits. We shall probably be away two months, returning here in September, and at the latter end of that month shall run away for Port Essington, Bally, and Singapore June 22. Two ships are reported in sight, and im- mediately everything is bustle and confusion. I seize aun HARDY'S ISLANDS-^MISSING LETTERS. 229 the opportunity of closing my letter in case a boat should go to them, and they not anchor. — Believe me, my dear aunt, your ever affectionate nephew, J. B. Jukes. H.M.S. Fly, off Sir 0. Hardy's Islands, July 27, 1844. My dear a., — I received your letter of February 28 yesterday, forwarded from Sydney by a vessel that was likely to fall in with us ; but I have not heard or seen anything of the one of December 12, or of Browne's of January 1. The jfirst I am not surprised at, as you say you sent it in a parcel. Now if the parcel came by post, the postage will be some pounds ; if it did not go hy post, are you aware there is a penalty of 40Z. for every letter so enclosed ? . . . Pray always trust your letters to her Majesty's Post-office. Another thing is, you mention my letter ' off Cape Weymouth.' Now I might have written a dozen letters off Cape Weymouth a month or two apart from each other. Please always to give me the date. It cost me some puzzling and much examination of my letter -book to comprehend that, up to February 28, 1844, you had not received any letter of mine of a later date than that of April 10 and July 3, 1843. Now pray, ma'am, consider yourself scolded. ... At length I have got to the matter of your letter. I am very glad to hear that my mother still li 230 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. continued well and in good spirits. ... I shall be very glad, I am sure, to come and * complete your felicity,' and I think I shall be entitled to a few weeks' holidaY when I return, before setting to work in London, as I suppose I shall have to do if I bring home a good col- lection. I am, however, still in absolute uncertainty as to what is to be done with the results of my labours — whether I am to do what I like with them, or whe- ther they are to go to the British Museum, or where. We sadly want a scientific department in the Govern- ment to take the management of these things. . . . How you would envy the corals which we get here ! The most magnificent masses of branched corals are now drying on the poop ; but, alas, they are too bulky and too brittle to get home, so I content myself with small pieces. I should like much to have seen your great fossil tree. I am very glad you are intimate with Mr. and Mrs. Lister. ,What I saw of them I liked much; and I think he is one of the few parsons beforo whom you may carry your soul in her ordinary dress, without huddling her immediately into her Sunday clothes. So poor R. has arrived at Cape Town. "Well, I sup- pose the Table Mountain is as good a place to die under as any other, and that, I suppose, is what he intends. Your missourium of M. Kock I saw in 1841. It is all true, except that the bones are not properly put to- gether. It really was not larger than an ordinary OPPRESSIVENESS OF INACTION. 231 elephant, and is nothing more or less than a mastodon. When I wrote to you last, I think I told you we were going to New Guinea. Well, that is all knocked on the head, and we have heen doing nothing hut cruising between Raine's Islet and Sir C. Hardy's Islands, sup- plying the building party with wood and water. It is now proposed that the Bramble shall be detached to sur- vey Endeavour Straits. If that take place, I shall go in her ; if not, we shall linger on here doing nothing till the middle of September, when we shall be compelled to go to Singapore before the wind changes into the westerly monsoon. This period of inaction is becoming most oppressive to me. The sole event to look forward to is the passing of a ship, while it is only at rare in- tervals I can do anything in the natural-history way. I would welcome any danger or any hardship even that would break the monotony. I am accordingly as dull, heavy, stupid, and spiritless as it is possible — like an old boat drawn up on a mud-bank instead of careering over the bright waters. By the bye, we got stuck on a coral bank the other day, and received two or three bumps that have probably knocked some copper off; if so, we may go to Bombay to be docked, and I shall thus get within a month's post of you. I do not wish it, however, as it would utterly ruin our chance of see- ing New Guinea — of which I have still some hopes — on our return from Singapore. 232 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. July 28. There is this moment a vessel declared to be in sight from the mast-head. I shall therefore hastily finish this, in order to be ready for her in case she should not anchor near us. . . , H. M.S. Fly, off south side of Jindana, or Sandalwood Island, Oct. 11, 1H44. My dear Browne, — . . . . When I closed and sent my last letter, which you will receive via St. Helena or Boston, I was in the Bramble, being heartily sick of lying at anchor in the Fly near Raine's Islet. We were occupied from August 20 to September 19 in surveying Endeavour Straits, during which operation I was fre- quently on shore, away in boats, &c., but nothing re- markable occurred. We had peaceable interviews with one or two parties of natives, and were enabled to make a few notes respecting the natural history of them, and of some birds, &c. On September 19, the Fly and Prince George joined us in the straits, having completed their great tower on Raine's Islet. I then rejoined my ship, and the next day we sailed for Port Essington, leaving our two tenders to finish the survey of Endeavour Straits. Ever since then we have had most lovely weather certainly, but continued light airs and almost calms. We did not reach Port Essington till the 27th, and found them much in the same state as before, hut the fever had left them. Three commanding officers of COAST OF SANDALWOOD ISLAND. 233 H.M. brig Royalist had successively died there after we left them ; hut the mortality had now ceased, and they were daily expecting to be relieved, as the new detach- ment had arrived in Hobart. . . . Yesterday we passed along forty miles of very picturesque and beautiful coast, the south-east end of Sandalwood Island. Mountain ranges in the interior, five or six thousand feet high, were dimly clothed with clouds, while the coasts were formed of steep jagged hills of one or two thousand feet, furrowed in every direction by gullies and ravines, or penetrated by narrow winding valleys full of groves of cocoa-nuts, with other stately palms nodding their heads from the crags above. It was so different from any Australian scenery, that its natural beauties were heightened in our eyes. And then we saw a waterfall, flinging itself over one of the 0110*8, not having seen running water before, heaven knows how long. We are now slowly floating (all hands sighing for a breeze, if it came in a gale) over a tranquil sea, under a roast- ing sun, which will be absolutely vertical either to-day or to-morrow at noon, hoping to reach the Straits of Lombock, and get through them io Sourabaya in a few days. There we shall probably remain till the Bramble comes up, so that I shall be able to see something of the north-east end of Java, and then we go on through Banca Straits to Singapore. . . . Remember me most kindly to all our mutual friends. I shall rejoice to be 234 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. amongst you all once more, if even for a short time, should my restless spirit again impel me abroad, to be * blown with restless violence about this pendent orb.' October 29, Benaahoude Staack, Sourabaya. Another change. We arrived here October 19, and after spend- ing two or three days, suddenly Captain B. declared bis intention of not going on to Singapore, but of sending on the Prince George for our letters. I then determined to live ashore to arrange my shells, &c. ; and Shadwell, Evans, and Bell have joined me in hiring a house, where I am now resid.'ng, with a Malay boy for a ser- vant, and a woman to cook. I am sitting in the front saloon after my morning bath and coffee, smoking, eat- ing bananas, and writing this. There are a few English residents here, and many Dutch, some of whom speak English ; but the common tongue of all is Malay, which I am learning as fast as I can. Should you like to see a specimen of the language ? — ' This morning I got up before daylight' — Paj?i ini sahaya bangun lagi glass. M dnpr this I rose still dark. •^ ot receive the letters from Singapore before Next week. Captain B., Evans, and I start or a tour up the country for a fortnight or three weeks. Avith best love to my mother and A., and kind regards to your family, 1 eve me, as ever, your affectionate brother, J. B. Jukes. MALA V LANG UA GE— TROPICAL LIFE. 235 • Fly Hall,' Bennahoude Staach, Sourahayu, Island of Java, Nov. 1, 1844. My dear Aunt, — This address will puzzle you aa much as it would have astonished me a fortnight ago. After leaving the reefs and touching at Port Essington, we sailed for Singapore, intending to call here on our way. We arrived here on October 19 ; and four days lifter. Captain B. suddenly altered his mind to remain here, and send the Prince George to Singapore for letters, &c. We accordingly shall not get them till December. Three of my messmates have therefore joined me in taking a house ashore ; and here I am, with two Malay servants who can't speak a word of English, while I can talk very little Malay at present. There are several English residents here — merchants, sugar-planters, &c.; and of the Dutch officers, naval and military, several speak English, and the rest French, but Malay is the common tongue of all. We have, be- sides our salon-a-manger and bedrooms, a cook-house, bathing-house, &c., a long outhouse in which all my natural-history collections are stored, and I am going to set to work at arranging and describing them. I have already fallen quite into the tropical way of life. Rise before day-light ; walk into the bathing-house, where stands a large porous earthenware jar of water, cooled by evaporation ; take a calabash, and pour it over the head and dash it about you for half-an-hour ; then 236 LETTERS OF J, BEETE JUKES. a cup of coffee, a banana, and a cigar ; then to work in sleeping-trousers and dressing-gown till eleven o'clock; then breakfast — coffee, rice, fish, fruit, curry, beer, or wine. At twelve or one go to bed for an hour ; at five bathe again, dress for dinner, and ride, drive, walk, or pay visits in the cool of the evening ; in bed at eleven. The bed is spacious, hung round with mosquito-cur- tains, and r mattress covered by a sheet. The houses are all flagged — no carpets, but cane mats. The Java- nese are a mild, gentle, and intelligent race of people. I am going to make a trip into the interior with Cap- tain B. We are to have horses supplied by Govern- ment, or rather ordered by them but supplied by rajahs, with an escort before and behind, more for honour than use. There is no money but copper doits, of which there are about 2000 to a pound sterling; so that if you pay ready-money, you must have a coolie to carry your purse, which would be a large bag of matting. This alteration of purpose in our arrangements obliges me to write all my letters in great haste in order to go on by the Prince George, besides having to superintend a hundred different things in fitting up the house. I am obliged to give you only hasty sketches therefore, and have no time to describe what we have seen. We fin- ished our great tower in September, but I spent a month before that in the Bramble surveying Endeavour Straits. We then touched at Port Essington for four days, where STRAITS OF ALASS—SOURABAYA. 237 we left our twenty convicts in charge of Ince, our third lieutenant, and also M'Gillivray, Lord Derby's naturalist. We then sailed slowly, with very light winds, by Timor, along the S. coast of Sandalwood Island, a noble-look- ing country 100 miles by 60, then through the Straits of Alass, between Sumbawa and Lombock, and along Baly and Java coast here. All these places are covered with magnificent volcanic cones, many 10,000 feet high, or as large as iEtna. I did not see Tomboro, as it was 100 miles distant from the W. side of Sumbawa, and the weather was hazy in that direction. We expect to leave this in January, return to Port Essington, and then along the S. coast of New Guinea, through Torres Straits, and down the coral sea between Australia and New Caledonia, and reach Sydney in May or June. This will be our most adventurous cruise in every respect, trying unknown ground, and unknown winds and weather. ... It seems to be my fate in all my travels to be confined to islands. I have only set foot on one continent yet — Africa, at the Cape of Good Hope —and now I have no chance of landing on Asia. . . . H.M.S. Fly, Sourabaya, Dec. 29, 1844, My dear a., — Here we are still, and as yet have received no letters. We, however, every day expect the Prince George from Singapore, when I hope to do so. 238 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. The first part of our sojourn in Java was very pleasant. On November 9, Captain B., Evans, and I, with a young man of Sourabaya, set off for the interior of tne coun- try. We travelled first for about seventy miles through Passaron8,n and Probolingo along the coast to the east- ward, driving in a carriage with four horses, or ponies rather. From Probolingo we struck off to the south ward on pony-back, with thirteen coolies carrying our baggage on foot, and about ten attendants under ., na- tive chief on horseback. We now got into the most beautiful, rich, picturesque, and magnificent country I ever saw or could have imagined — rich plain? covered with all kinds of tropical productions, watered in every direction by clear rocky brooks, surrounded by moun- tains, either in single cones or serrated ranges, from 4,000 to 11,000 feet in height ; abundance of game whenever we chose to stop and shoot — jungle-fowl, pea- cocks, deer, wild pigs, tigers ; all the native chiefs ap- prised of our approach wherever we came ; a house and most luxurious entertainments ready for us as we dis- mounted ; escorts, coolies, the whole country apparently, at our command ; every trouble taken out of our hands, and nothing for us to do but to ride, shoot, eat, drink, and admire the glorious scenery that everywhere sur- rounded us. We crossed one great range of mountains by a path that led us through the extinct crater of a volcano, five miles across and 7000 feet above the sea, SCENE IN THE INTERIOR OF JAVA. 239 and in the centre of which was a small cone and crater still in action, though when we looked down into it, it was only blowing out steam, with a roar as of a thou- sand blast-furnaces. Take a scene on the slope of these mountains, as they dip into the plain of Malang. Scene. An open mountain valley, full of coflfee-plan- tations, with small scattered villages, into which opens a deep mountain glen crowded with the rankest luxu- riance of tropical vegetation, groups of tree-ferns and great broad-leaved plants, so as to arch over and fre- quently hide altogether the full brook that comes flash- ing and roaring down over the rocks in a succession of rapids, varied by waterfalls; the road, narrow, steep, and slippery, as it winds down the sides of the glen, expands into a broad green lane, with an exquisite carpet of turf as it opens on the more level lands. On this road, mounted on a spirited and excellent little horse, rides an English gentleman (myself) dressed in shoot- iug-coat, straw hat, and leather gaiters, preceded by two native spearmen in blue and red on good little liorses. The gentleman, being better mounted, has outridden his companions, and is now endeavouring to pass the spearmen, whose duty it is to be fifty yards filiead, to encounter tigers and clear the road. The spearmen, enjoying the fun, are trying to keep their lace, which the goodness of the gentleman's horse ren- ers difficult, when, turning a corner of the road, a 240 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. gateway is seen with unsaddled horses and native ser vants grouped about it. The spearmen shout to pul up, a native gamelang, or band of music, from a build ing inside the gates strikes up the tune of * Rajah da tang' (' The prince is coming'), the gentleman dashes through the gate into the midst of the servitors, who all, headed by their chief, bow and hold his stirrup, and having dismounted, stalks into the building to the clang of the gamelang. One takes his coat, another brings water and a towel, another arranges a chair at a table covered with delicious fruit and all kinds of sweetmeats and confectionery, while a young chief comes forward with a tray on which are tea and cofifee. Presently his companions and the rest of the escort drop in; and when all have washed, had tea, fruit, and sweetmeats, the table is cleared, and on comes a substantial meal of numberless dishes of poultry, beef, curries, stews, &c., with rice and potatoes. Two of the escort produce bot- tles of beer from their game-bags, of which a stock is carried by coolies from place to place; and after au hour's rest and refreshment, fresh horses are saddled, a fresh escort provided, and the party proceeds, the game- lang striking up with a great clangour * Rajah jalan' (* The prince is going'). This is at one of the little mountain villages ; but that same afternoon we rode into Pakis, on the plain of Malang, with an escort of thirty mountain horsemeu KIND RECEPTION— HEALTHY CLIMATE. 241 and spearmen in three lines, headed by a widono and two bakkels, whose silver trappings and gold-covered krisses and gay blue -and -red garments quite put to shame our soiled and wayworn English shooting-dresses. Here we could not stir without a guard of honour of six spearmen, and every one uncovered and sat down (their position of respect) as we walked along. We all ii;;'reed we never were such great men before and never should be again. Here, too, we found some beautiful ruius of ancient Hindoo temples, dating from a.d. 700 or thereabouts, and a most delicious country. Being 1200 feet above the sea and rain every afternoon, the temperature was delightful ; and, as far as mere climate and situation goes, I never saw a country I should more like to live in. No tropical country is so cool and pleasant and healthy as the interior of Java. We saw several English and Europeans of all ages, from children to old gentlemen of seventy, wdth ruddy cheeks and every sign of health. Indeed, in the interior fever seems to be scarcely known. The people, too, are all so gentle, docile, and good-tempered, and appear so com- fortable and well off, that, were it English instead of Butch, it would, I am sure, be a favourite residence of our gentry. At present, however, there is no society, and it was only by favour of the Resident of Sourabaya that we were allowed to penetrate so far, the country being entirely locked up even to Dutchmen, except the few civil R 242 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, and military officers that are posted at different places. We returned to Sourabaya on 27th of November, after a delightful excursion of eighteen days ; but on comiDg down into the swamps and flats of the coast we began to feel the climate. I made another trip of a day across to Madura to see the Sultan of Bankalang, where we stnyed a night, but it was not very interesting. By December 14, I had packed up and shipped off all my this year's collections ; and after catching cold in a boat one night, and being up all the next at a ball at Grissek, I had a slight attack of fever, which confined me on board for a week, but I am now quite stout again. This is the west monsoon, and now, after a fine morning, we invariably have heavy rain from noon till night, when it clears off again. Sourabaya itself is a shocking stupid place, and we are all anxious to be off again, and I be- lieve we shall sail to-morrow week. If you get Baffles' History of Java, you will see drawings of some oi the temples we have seen. His account of the country is quite correct to the present day. . . . H.M.8. Fly, Sourahmja, Java, Jan. 10, 1845. My dear Aunt, — . . . . Our stay in Java has been very interesting, more especially the first part. The coast is flat and swampy, and the towns dull and stupid, but the interior of the country is the most beautiful and CHARMING COUNTRY AND PEOPLE. 243 magnificent I ever beheld — every variety of surfaco and outline in the ground, from level plains to mountain ranges and volcanic cones, from 4,000 to 11,000 feet in height, enclosing here and there rich plains or val- leys, thirty or forty miles wide, and 1,200 feet above the sea; the wildest scenery, knife-edge ridges, and deep narrow winding glens and ravines, all clothed in the rankest profusion with every variety of tropical vegeta- tion, from the cocoa-nut and banana of the plains to the groves of bamboos rising in great clusters to 150 feet in height, their stems arching and interlacing over- head on the mountain sides ; interminable forests of teak, and trees like the banian, and numerous others up to the bare mountain tops, with grassy ridges, on which grow here and there tufts or belts of lofty pine - like casuarinas. In the glens are tree-ferns and innumer- able great broad-leaved plants, generally quite conceal- ing the deep rocky bed of the brook, the roar of whose waters is heard on the heights as it rushes down into the plains. Then the people : from chiefs to coolies, gentle, docile, good-humoured, humble, but ready to enter into and enjoy a joke ; the higher ranks polished, courteous, well-bred gentlemen, and all watching to anticipate your wishes and supply your wants. Wher- ever you stop, a table laid under a large bamboo shed, generally in some picturesque spot, with sweet cakes and all kinds of confectionery, mangos, pine-apples, tea 244 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. and coffee, with handsome services of glass, china, and plate, purple finger-glasses, fine napkins, and aM/o/- nothing ; with troops of servitors, and the chief of the district doing the honours ; fresh horses every six or seven miles ; a mounted escort to carry our guns, &c. ; spearmen ahead to clear the way, gold and silver trap- pings to the horses (the chiefs sometimes sport gold stirrups), and gay clothing to the escort. It is moreover a sealed place to all the world. Nothing but our being a man-of-war, and the Resident of Sourabava being a liberal-minded man, procured us permission to stir a yard, as it is positively against orders for any foreigner, or even a Dutchman without a pass, to go into the in- terior. We looked down into an active crater, that of the Bromo, about 7000 feet high ; but it was only a small hole in the middle of the old and now extinct crater, which is five miles across, and is called the Sandy Sea. We spent a week at various heights from five to seven thousand feet, and got strawberries, raspberries, and green peas. Then down to the plain of Malang, where, as far as extreme loveliness of country and freshness, pleasantness, and healthiness of air and climate go, I could be perfectly content to pass my life. Fresh green lanes, with short springy turf, brawling brooks, patches of forest, undulating ground, with pretty hills among rice-fields and banana-trees ; and every now and then, HINDOO TE94PLES—DARNLEY ISLAND. 245 in some forest glade, you come upon an old Hindoo temple in ruins, with elegant architecture, elaborately carved tracery and ornaments, and graceful, grotesque, or really beautiful sculpture and statuary. Around these temples piles of brick, buried in the depths of the forest, fragments of walls, or the road running uloug some ancient brick causeway, all attest the former grandeur of the ancient Hindoo empires and kingdoms, all hut the tradition of which has passed away. Some of the most beautiful ruins date from a.d. 700, when Java was far more populous, wealthy, and powerful than England. On our return to Sourabaya, I one day caught cold and had a slight fever, but soon recovered- We also visited the Sultan of Bankalang in Madura ; but as I am now arrived at the end of my sheet, I must defer farther detail. . . . H.M.8. Fly, at anchor off Darnley Island, Torres Straits, April 16, 1845. My dear a., — As the Bramble is now going to se- parate from us, and beat back to Sydney along the east coast of Australia, while we, after a short trip to New Guinea, shall return by the west coast and Swan Eiver, I am going to send you a brief epistle by her, as it will probably reach you sooner than by any other oppor- tunity. I left a letter in Sourabaya on January 10 246 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. last to go by a Dutch ship, since when wo have seen no homeward-bound vessels. We left Sourabaya on Janu- ary 12 in a gale of wind, which, after one or two nar- row escapes from getting ashore, took us into Alass Straits, and I landed on the Island of Lombock. Thence we went to Port Essington, where we found the last de- tachment had gone home, and a new one arrived. There we embarked our convicts again and Lieutenant Ince and M'Gillivray, who had stayed behind, and proceeded to Endeavour Straits, which we reached on February 11. Since then we have been surveying all the south-east portion of Torres Straits, and the reefs north of Murray Island. We have landed on most of the islands ; and on most of the larger ones have had very friendly dealings with the natives, although they are of that savage race who murdered the crew of the Charles Eaton, including Mr. Clare of Wolverhampton, and only spared a boy and a little child. No longer ago than yesterday morning I was seated — with one man only— among a group of these people at the hut of ' Duppa' (the man who took care of the child, young D'Oyley), quite out of sight of the ship, and on the most friendly terms with them all. I bought, for an empty bottle and two cigars, from one of the black young ladies a new dress just finished. It consists of a plaited band that goes round the waist, and a deep thick fringe of strips of plantain leaves, scraped very thin and smooth. When DRESS OF THE INHABITANTS. 247 put on, it forms a petticoat or kilt from the waist to the middle of the thigh ; this, with shell necklace and tas- sels of red berries, and some seeds strung through the lobe of the ear, with perhaps a streak of white or red ochre on the cheeks or forehead, forms the gala dress of these sable beauties. The only thing the men wear that can be called clothing is oddly enough a wig, formed of a kind of matting with the hair twisted in and curled, and very well and artificially made it is too ; they gener- ally have also an armlet on left arm to prevent the string of their bows from cutting them, and sometimes a head- dress of feathers, or a large piece of mother-of-pearl hanging on the breast like a gorget. I bought a wig for a knife and a red-worsted night-cap, and a splendid Ijow, upwards of seven feet long, and a sheaf of arrows, for two knives. Altogether we have been greatly in- terested and amused with these people, and like them much ; and were it not that they have an unfortunate predilection for collecting skulls, no fault could bo found with them. They have excellent huts, large canoes, and cocoa-nuts, plantains, and yams in abundance, and in all the arts of life are far above the Australians. The fondness for skulls is common over all the islands from Borneo to New Guinea. It proceeds from an idea that of all the skulls they can collect during life-time the owners shall be their servants and followers in the next world. Of course to have a white man as a slave would %. %\ 248 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. be a great honour. Their language is clear, harmonious, and expressive : their very words for * yes' and * no' show this. * Yes' is * wow' — how positive and decisive ! — only pronounce it with a nod of the head, wow ! Lola, on the contrary, is * no' — one of the most gentle negatives I know, nothing short or snappish about it, and yet suffi- ciently clear and firm. They don't shako the head with it, but holding up the right hand, shake it by turning it half round and back again two or thrc^ tiiries, ' lola, lola.' We have several hundred words of their language, and they were quite delighted to teach us, and to hear us use them. When I accosted a stranger once Wich the words, 'Narrow dallee?' ('What'.-' the name of this?') pointing to a shell, I thought he would have gone wild, such a shout of joy and surprise he set up, and immedi- ately embraced me, and danced round me. When at Darnley Island last, I went by myself — having a pistol in my pocket — across the island, and came to a village where were several people I had not seen before. They were delighted at seeing me, offered me yams, sat down round me — men, women, and children — brought me cocoa-nut, water to drink; and when I got up to go away, used all their endeavours to get me to stny with them, pointed to a hut, to the cocoa-nut- and plantain -trees, made signs of sleeping there, and lastly brought a fine tall young lady for a wife for me ; but when they found even the last argument fail, and I was determined on LANGUAGE AND FRIENDLY DEMEANOUR. 249 j^oing back, as the sun was going down, one or two escorted me back to within sight of the ship, and then took an affectionate leave of me, not asking even for a bit of tobacco. By the bye, they grow tobacco, and smoke it in great bamboo pipes in a peculiar fashion of their own ; and whence they derived the custom and the plant puzzles my philosophy. For a few knives I could get beautiful tortoiseshell enough to set you up in combs all your life, but have not much room for it, and fear it may cost more making up than you could buy them for. However, T will bring a little. We have all been in good health with the exception of some cases of dysentery and fever brought from Sourabaya, the former being fatal in two cases, one in each vessel. We are victualled till the end of June, by which time we must get to some port for supplies. I expect that in a day or two we shall stretch over to New Guinea, near Capo Rodney, and then run along the southern coast of that great country for a week or two ; but by this day month, at the latest, we must take our final leave of Torres Straits, and shall probably run either to Swan River or to Adelaide, and thence to Sydney. • • . . On our arrival at Sydney, it is highly pro- bable we shall receive orders for home, in which case we shall, after two or three months, refit and turn our hoad once more towards old England I have lost all interest in public news, and England will be a 250 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. foreign country when I return ; and were it not for my mother and yourself and my other relations, I should feel little wish to see it again, so strange and remote does it now seem to me. You however will, I hope, find me, if not altogether unchanged, at least, as ever, your loving brother, J. B. Jukes. H.M.S. Fly, off south coast of Timor, June 21, 1845. My dear Aunt, — Since I wrote to you last from Java, we have had a very eventful and interesting cruise, but it has involved the delaying of all news from you or any one else to an indefinite period. . . . We left Java in a gale of wind on January 12, and had one or two narrow escapes from getting ashore about Lombock. At length we got to an anchor in the Straits of Alass, and went ashore, having a pleasant walk to a village of Bhugis, with whom I found I could talk Malay with tolerable fluency. We then proceeded to Port Essing- ton, and after taking our officers and convict-party ou board again, ran to Torres Straits and commenced sur- veying. We were engaged in this during the months of February, March, and April, laying down reefs and islands and the passages between them. . . . We had considerable intercourse Avith the natives of Murray and Darnley Islands, and found them by no means to de- SUPERIORITY OF THE ISLANDERS. 251 serve the bad character they have acquired. Both bodily and mentally they are far above the Australian natives, and totally different from them, having sprung either from New Guinea, or, as I think more likely, from the islands to the eastward, as Solomon Islands and New Caledonia. They build very good houses, in the shape of a huge beehive, fifteen feet high and fifteen or eighteen i: diameter. They have well-fenced gardens, in which they grow yams, plantains, sugar-cane, ginger, and to- bacco, and the islands abound in cocoa-nuts and other fruits. They are very quick, intelligent, and bold, have a good easily-learut language, are well armed with bows and arrows of great size and power, and are altogether a superior people. They are eagerly desirous of barter, exchanging i;ortoiseshcll,&c., for axes and knives. Their women are well made, but not handsome, are well treated by thera, and though perfectly frank and fond of our so- ciety, would by no means admit of any undue familiarity on the part of our people. Moreover, they wear clothes — an unprecedented thing in this part of the world: a thick petticoat or kilt of plantain-leaves scraped smooth, one of which garments, as well as arms, utensils, &c., I have brought away with me. Having picked up a little of their language, I became a great favourite with them, used to go among them unarmed, and on approaching a village was always received by men, women, and chil- dren with shouts of ' Dookes, Dookes !' or * Dookessa !' -~^p--,-.T.— ^ •-- 252 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. to which they transmogrified my name. I taught the young ladies to walk arm-in-arm with m'^, which puz- zled them very much indeed at first; and one day when a numher of strangers had landed from Tood and Da- mood (islands to the westward), on approaching then- encampment, two old friends. Miss Moggore and Miss Bood, ran to take me by the arm. I shall never forget an old lady stranger's astonishment at seeing me walk up thus accompanied. Continued exclamations of 'Wai, wan, wan, wan !' &c. flowed from her lips as long as we continued within hearing. On one of our visits to Dainley Island the two sides of the island were at war with each other, and I was lucky enough to be spectator of the battle which ensued. It was a fine sight while it lasted, but the only execution was a few scratches from arrow-glances ; in short, it was more noise than work. At last, on April 25, we saw the low land of New Guinea about Bristow Island, and during May we explored about one hundred miles of its coast to the north and east. This, was by far the most difiicult and dangerous part of oui cruise. The land is very low, and the sea off it is so shoal that we frequently could not approach within sight of it. A great mud-bank, from five to twelve miles in width, runs along the whole coast. We were accordingly obliged to work in boats; but even for these there was no shelter as the trade- wind blows right on shore, and causes a huge rolling THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. 253 sea over all the ehoals. We found the land to be in- tersected in every direction with innumerable creeks and arms oi fresh water ^ varying in width from a few yards to two, three, and five miles, so that a large river or assemblage of rivers must empty themselves here. No high land was seen, except at our extreme N.E. point, where a hill was visible in N., and beyond it once or twice, glimpses of very lofty mountains at a great distance were obtained. We had much bad wea- ther and heavy rain, and to add to our anxiety, we missed two of our boats, containing three junior officers and twelve men. They had been sent inshore to trace the coast, with a week's provision, but we could not find them again. They left us on May 2, and from the 10th of that month to June 2 we were constantly employed looking for them. I accompanied two of these erpeditions, in one of which Captain B. and I penetrated fifteen miles up a fresh-water creek in a single boat, till we came in sight of one of the huge Papuan houses, when, after a slight skirmish with the inhabit- ants, we returned. The whole of these creeks swarm with natives living in large villages, going in bodies of several hundred, well armed with bows and arrows, large wooden swords, stone-headed clubs; and having never seen white men before, were daring, fierce, and treacherous. [A description is here given of the weapons and houses of the natives.] Every two or three miles 'm 254 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. hereabouts was a village containing from one to four or five of these great houses, besides a number of others much smaller and of a somewhat different construction. The land about here was a wet clay, very swampy, co- vered with a dense jungle, in which were numerous palms, both cocoa-nut, sago, and many others. Pigs were abundant, and we killed and carried off two from this village, as we had no fresh provisions, and were now on two-thirds' allowance of everything. I cannot give you more details of what we saw in this country, or I should have to copy a whole notebook ; and having given up nearly all hopes of ever seeing our lost com- panions again, we left the coast before worse things happened to us. Touching at Darnley Island, how- ever, an excellent old fellow there named Seewhy, to whom I explained the circumstances, assured us that our boats were not at New Guinea, but had been seen by the people of Tood and Damood some time ago going to the southward. I had the greatest confidence in his word ; and as Booby Island lay in that direction, anil had a store of provisions left upon it, no longer doubted that the boats, having missed the ship, had bore up for that place, which eventually turned out to be the case. Wlien we arrived at Booby Island, we found they had gone on for Port Essington, and that the crews and passengers of two other wrecked ships, the Coriuga packet and the Hyderabad, had likewise been on the SEARCH FOR MISSING BOATS. 255 island, and gone on for the same place. ... I confess I am getting more and more enamoured of a sailor's life, and regret I did not know the navy early enough to enter it. I see it would have suited me exactly. June 29, oflf N. coast of Java. Since writing the above, we have had a pleasant and prosperous voyage thus far. In passing through Alass Straits, we an- chored and landed on Lombock for refreshments . The natives were a particularly kind civil people, many of them speaking Malay, although they call themselves Sassacks. The Kajah is under the guidance greatly of a Mr. King (an Englishman, whose agent, a Mr. Herder, entertained us at Taryong Luar, where we landed), and is quite . ccpendent of the Dutch. I should like much to travel through these islands, which, at the cost of a fc , presents to the chiefs, might be done with great facility. . . . July 2, Banca Straits. On our left hand now stretches a long, low, flat shore, fronted by mud-banks, and clothed with a dense jungle of mangroves — this is part of Sumatra ; while on cur right half the horizon is broken bv detached low hills with round backs, and here and there the tops of trees stretching between them — this is Banca. The distance across is from ten to twenty miles. Notwithstanding our descent on the Lombock shore the other day, and our bringing off two dozen fowls, ten dozen ducks, with fruits and veget- 256 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ables, we are apjain running short of fresh provisions ; so you may conceive the havoc made among poultry by a set of hungry fellows who had been six months on salt grub, and short allowance of that at last. But then they are cheap enough — beautiful fowls for 4s. a dozen; ducks, 8s. a dozen; bananas, 8s. a horse-load; rice, 4s. a picul (133 pounds); plantains, eggs, &c., for any- thing or nothing. Mr. Herder told us a common man's expenses in Lombock were about eighteenpence a month ; for half-a-doUar a month he would live an idle well-fed existence. If you want to know anything about Singapore, you should read Earle's Voyages in the Mo- luccan Af'chipelago or Eastern Seas — I forget which is the title. He is a very good fellow, and is now in Eng- land. His old servant Shadrack has been witli us, but is now at Port Essington as interpreter. . . . H.M.S. Fly, Java Sea, June 29, 1845. My dear a., — You will probably receive this letter before two others I have written previously. . . . We have had a very eventful and interesting cruise, from which we have escaped all well, although at one time we thought we had lost three officers and twelve men. These, hav- ing been detached in two boats on the coast of New Guinea, managed to miss the ship in bad weather ; and, after a vain attempt to find each other, they were re- SKIRMISHES— PAPUAN HOUSES. 257 (luced to make for Booby Island, where a store of pro- visions had been left ; and we were detained three weeks, in a very dangerous position, on a lee-shore, in shoal water, searching all the creeks and river-mouths, that abound there, in our remaining boats, exposed to a huge rolling sea, and to the continual treacherous attacks of the natives, who are very numerous, fierce, and implac- ably hostile. I was in two boat-expeditions, in one of which Captain Blackwood and I, in his gig, with six men, penetrated fifteen miles up a river, and luckily escaped with only a slight skirmish. Another time we took in the Prince George, having previously lightened her; and they had the impudence to come ofi'in canoes and attack us, but sufi'ered severely for their temerity. We stormed one village, and searched it for any frag- ment of our boats or crews, but found none. Their houses, however, were well worth seeing. They have two kinds, of which the most singular is in shape of a huge hall or tunnel, 300 feet long by 30 in width. It is all rai ed on posts, to a height of about six feet above the swampy ground ; has a perfectly level floor at this height, neatly formed of bamboos and the thick bark of ii palm ; and the roof is 18 feet above the floor in the centre, sloping down to it at each side. At the front i^nd back there is an open platform or balcony, over which the roof projects, with a broad stair to the ground and three arched doorways to the interior. Inside, a s ^58 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. row of cabins runs along each side, containing a fire- place, bed-place, shelves, &c., with a neat door of split bamboo; and between every two of these is a small door or port-hole in the side of the roof, level with the floor, with a ladder from it to the ground, and closed likewise by a door or shutter. The centre forms a perfect promenade in wet weather, being quite clear from front door to back ; the roof is quite weather-proof, very thick and strong, made of the leaves of the sago- palm ; and everything was quite neat and clean and comfortable, though rather dark. The natives resemble our friends the Torres Straits' Islanders ; and if as well acquainted with our power, our wealth, and our good intentions, would probably be as friendly and man- ageable as they are. At all events, the discovery of the many fresh-water croeks we met with, will open a road into the interior of New Guinea ; and a well- managed boat-expedition would, I daresay, have no difficulty in penetrating, either by force or favour, or a mixture of both. I would gladly volunteer for one. It appears, however, a very wet climate, as we had continual rains. But I must defer all details, to go on with our subsequent movements. On June 3, we returned to Darnley Island, where I heard from an old friend there, named Seewhy, that our boats had been seen by the people of Damood going to WRECKED CREWS AND PASSENGERS. 259 the southward ; and on June 9, on our arrival at Booby Island, we found that not only our boats, but the crews of two ships wrecked on the reef had been on the island, and successively followed each other to Port Essington. We sailed for that place accordingly ; and found our own people pretty well, and sixty other people, among whom were some ladies we had met frequently in Hobarton, three officers going to their regiments in India, and some children with their nurse. There was also a part of one of the crews, to the number of twenty-seven, left on a sand-bank near the wreck, with provisions and v»ater for six months. We were accordingly now under the necessity of making entirely new arrangements ; and Captain B. determined to carry the crews and pas- sengers in the Fly up to Singapore, and send the Prince George round to Sydney with all dispatch, in order that a vessel might be sent to fetch the remainder off the sand-bank. We found, to our great annoyance, that all our letters and papers had been sent up to Port Essing- ton from Sydney, with a high probability of their being lost by the way ; so that when I am to get any intelli- gence from you or any one at home, again, I do not know. Any letters sent to Singapore will have been forwarded to Sydney long ago ; so that we are altogether at cross- purposes. . . We are in an absolute state of uncertainty as to our future movements. Our orders are now await- ing us in Sydney ; but whether they will be to proceed r -'*^ m 260 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. witli the survey, to take in guns and go to fight the New Zealaiiders, or to go and beat the French out of Otaheite, or to proceed to China, Kamschatka, Cali- fornia, Cape Horn, or England, we liave no means of judging, nor, as far as I am concerned, of preferring one to another. We are sure to be paid oflf before November 1847, and the more places we see between this and then, the better I shall be pleased. In the mean time we are having a delightful voyage, with smooth water, pleasant breezes, fine weather, and the addition of the society of ladies to our usual comforts. These are, Mrs. and three Miss B.s — very pleasant girls, and very fond of waltzing; so that now every evening we light up the quarter-deck with lanterns, and waltz to the music of the ship's fiddler and the captain's barrel-organ, or sit in groups, gipsy-fashion, on the poop, and enjoy the cool breezes of the lovely tropical nights, with the stars gleaming overhead, and the sea sparkling and flashing with phosphorescent light on the surges that flow along our sides, or the eddies in our wake. Mrs. B. is the widow of a captain in the army, .%nd returning with her daughters to her friends in India. She was originally from the north of Italy, and has mingled much in the best society of Italy and France in former days. They have borne their ship- wreck and subsequent boat-voyages very well, although with the loss of almost aU their baggage and outfit for PLEASANT SOCIETY^BANCA STRAIT. 261 India. We took them ashore the other day on the Island of Lombock, where the inhabitants were de- lighted to see them, invited us into their houses, and lirought presents of rice and confectionery, and birds in cages. We had afterwards a magnificent view of Lombock Peak, a volcano that rises directly from the sea to a height of 11,400 feet, by our measurement. It fully equals the Peak of Teneriffe in majesty of appearance. July 2, Banca Strait. We are now running between the low swampy mangrove shores of Sumatra on the left band, and the Island of Banca on our right. We have just passed three vessels, English and American, being almost the first square-rigged vessels we have seen for six months. As we are within 2° of the equator, with so ituch land nbout us and little wind, you may easily conceive we are rather warm. A temperature of 80° is that which now feels most agreeable to me ; but when it comes up to 85° it begins to feel oppressive, and at 90° we call it hot. We have been so long in warm weather, that I look forward to a voyage along the south coast of Australia with a kind of dread of the cold, as we sliall probably get the thermometer down to 50°. Sin- gapore is in about 1° north, so that to-morrow or next (lay we cross the line, and I shall again be in the same liemisphere with you, and shall remain there probably a fortnight Give my kindest and most affectionate A, 4:>J %. ^.^^^ r o . V^.%^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y A O s .;*' m. < % '^ ^J Q- /ip7 v /^.^ f/x 1.0 I.I m 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 M 6" — ► m ^A ^. 4^ '^1 ^e: /^ ^ o ^ / PhotogiBphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % 262 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I0V9 to my mother, and believe me, as ever, your most affectionate brother, J. B. Jukes. July 7, Singapore. "We arrived at Singapore the night of the 5 th, but have scarcely had time to land and look about us before we are ordered off to Malacca to meet the admiral, whom circumstances render it neces- sary for us to see. Where we shall go to next, I can't say, but will write again soon. Sydney, Oct. 2, 1845. My dear a., — We arrived here on September 25, and long before we cast anchor, I was deep in the peru- sal of my letters, brought off by the Bramble and Prince George. I read from before noon till dark night, when I could no longer see ; and since then I have skimmeti over them again, but still feel my ideas concerning all tilings at home in a whirl, and am unable to classify 01 arrange the facts in my memory. The general result is melancholy. Death and other misfortunes in several branches of our family threw a weight over my spirits, that the subsequent excitement of much bustle and business and kind reception ashore, has not yet been able utterly to heave off. Hardship, danger, or death in action, or in fight, would be luxury TIDINGS OF HOME-CHANGES. 263 to my feelings, compared with this slow consumption of life or its means and enjoyments in quiet domestic existence. Heaven send I may never have to die in my bed by decay or disease, but may meet the * grim fea- ture' openly face to face in the free air, and with my blood warm ! All my old boyish recollections and asso- ciations broken up, or brushed out of sight into the lumber-room of memory, no more to be renewed or men- tioned ! What changes, by the time I return, will have taken place in every part of my little world ! But I do not know why I should trouble you with gloomy fancies, which I suppose visit every head that has seen thirty- four years pass over it. They will come perhaps too soon. Be assured I am delighted to hear of your hap- piness ; it is my greatest comfort and consolation. Long, long may you all remain so ! I could almost find in my heart to envy you ; but my craving for change of scene and freedom of action is not yet satiated I have now re-read all yours, and proceed to answer them in order. You talk of coming to meet me on our arrival. I should be delighted at your doing so, but w^e shall not know where we shall be till we arrive As to Mitchell's travels : no travels in Australia can be amusing, although they may be valuable. In unknown count'ies and coasts the journal form is essential, as you would find if you came to tread in a traveller's foot- steps I do not think I am at all altered in per- 264 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. sonal appearance, except by the addition of beard and moustache, not haying touched a razor for tv/o years. Age tells, of course, but climate, I think, has not affected me. . . . Now, then, to bring up our history, and guess at future movements. After I wrote to you at Singapore, we joined the admiral at Malacca, where we spent a week. I do not know whether Malacca has the same dreamy kind of antique associations about it for you that it had to me, from the mention of it by the old navigators. It was once the Queen of the East under the Portuguese. All that is gone ; but yet I was much interested in it. There are the remains of a fort and a cathedral with old Latin tombstones of 1550. There is a half-caste who assumes the name of Alfonso Albuquer- que, and claims descent from that stern old warrior. It is a pleasant place even now, and to my feelings prefer- able to the new, bustling, thriving, garish Singapore, which reminds me of a piece of an English colonial town pitched into the tropics, where it has settled among a few Chinese and Malay habitations. Even it, how- ever, has a history. Sir S. Kaffles found it a desert swamp in 1815 ; but it once was Singhapura, the capi- tal of a Malay empire, that fell as Malacca rose, and the very memory of which bed almost passed away, v/henthe genius of Kaflfles saw the advantages of its situation, and now it has 60,000 inhabitants, and fleets from all MALACCA AND THE ADMIRAL. 265 parts of the world at anchor in its waters. An English- man knows nothing of the power and grandeur of his country who has remained at home all his life. Eng- land is but the heart of the empire. He only knows the stature of the whole body who has seen the limbs embracing the whole world, and people, kingdoms, and nations reposing under the shadow of its arm. At Malacca the admiral at one time was going to send us to Hong-Kong ; a' another to Bombay to be docked and repair ; but at last let us come to Sydney, where we are going to be hove down. He is a bit of a Tartar. Are not they kept in order, captains and all ? He was, however, very civil to us, only rating one of the midshipmen soundly for having a spot of tar on his white trousers. We left Singapore on August 3, and the Straits of Sunda on August 20, taking our last look of Java the magnificent. We had then been a year and a half in a constant temperature of between 80° and 90^, and in rather more than a fortnight we were in one of 42°. Thick gloves, woollen stockings, blankets — all failed to keep us warm. However, we escaped with only a little dysentery and catarrh. Off South Austra- lia we had one very heavy gale ; but on September 25, we anchored all well in Sydney. Last August, how- ever, there was a dreadful wreck in Bass's Strait, when 414 lives were lost, chiefly emigrants for Port Phillip. We found the Bramble and Prince George all well, and 266 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. we found our orders for home. We are really not go- ing another cruise ; but the Bramble is to remain out and complete the survey, or to go on with it, at all events. We are not sorry, though I should like to see more of New Guinea, while Yule is, although by Btay- Ing out he is sure to get his promotion. We shall be ready for sea again about the middle of December pro- bably, and shall sail for England in January. Perhaps, however, we shall go down toHobarton, and also to New- Zealand, whence we shall very likely bring home Cap- tain Fitzroy. You will see in the papers the account of the fighting there At all events, we hope to be home in the summer of next year, and unless they offer to make me governor of a settlement at Cape York (which we mean to propose the formation of) I do not think I shall be tempted to revisit Australia. I am re- joiced to hear my mother still continues so well. . . . Oct. 4. I have just received by a ship that came in this morning your letter of May 30. The reason I did not get your letters was the unexpected delay of the mails from Calcutta to Singapore, as the steam arrange- ments were not then complete so far. ... I am sorry I cannot tell you where to direct on our passage home, as we do not yet know which way we shall go, and cannot, till we hear from New Zealand. I cannot hope, there- fore, to receive an answer to this till I get one from your own mouth in June next or thereabouts. Give my very ORDERS FOR HOME—SYDNEY. 267 best love to my dear motlier, and believe me, as ever, your most affectionate bi other, J. B. Jukes. I saw a letter from Sturt the other day, written in the interior, north of Adelaide. What a country he is in ! Sandy deserts interminable, with the thermometer 130° in the shade four feet from the ground, and 157° in the sun. It only confirms my preconceived notion of what the interior would turn out. Mitchell is going again in a few weeks. I am going to call on him to-day. H.M.S. Fly, Bass's Straits, Dec. 27, 1845. My dear a., — We are actually on our road home, and expect to arrive in June or thereabouts. I was so much engaged the last week or two in Sydney, that I had no time to write ; but having now brought up my journals and business to the present time, I am clearing off my letter-scores. I passed a very pleasant time in Sydney, and had a capital geological excursion with Clarke down to Illawarra, from which I returned about ten days before we sailed. I had then some collecting work to do in the harbour, and all my kind friends to visit for the last time, and take leave of. I really felt quite sorry to leave Sydney, at which I was rather astonished, as I did not like it at all at first. We sailed 268 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, on December 19, bound for Port Phillip, from which place we are 100 miles distant, having been bothered with light winds and calms. We are now trying to beat round Wilson's Promontory. We shall not revisit Van Dieman's Land, for which I am sorry. ... At Port Phillip we shall probably stop a week, and I shall dispatch this letter thence by one of the wool-ships. We shall proceed to South Australia, and stay a week at Adelaide ; then to Swan Kiver for another. Then running up into the trades, we shall stretch across the Indian Ocean, and perhaps touch at the Mauritius. At all events, we shall visit Cape of Good Hope and St. Helena on our way home. You will probably get this in April or May ; and if nothing happens to detain us anywhere, you may expect in June or July to receive a note from me, dated ' English Channel,' announcing oui being off the shores of Old England. . . . GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. ENGLISH SURVEY. 1846-1849. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. ENGLISH SURVEY. 184(5-1849. HetuiTi to England — Appointment to the English survey — Letter of Sir H. de la Beche — Congenial companions — Edward Forbes — Professor Ramsay — Letters to Professor Ramsay from London, Bala, Llan-y-Mowddwy, Cerrig-y-Druidion, Yspytty Evan, Penmachno, Bettws-y-Coed, and Wolverhamp- ton on geological work and problems. The Fly returned to England in June 1846, and Captain Blackwood having resigned to Mr. Jukes the office of recording the history of the expedition, he shortly afterwards puhlished the Voyage ofH.M.S. Fhj, and subsequently A Sketch of the Physical Structure of Australia. In preparing his journals for publication, lie would seem to have followed the advice of Profes- sor Sedgwick, given in these terms : * Don't ever tiy to write fine, but tell us plainly what you have seen. Honest idiomatic English is the stuff to write.' Before these works were completed, however, Mr. Jukes entered a new epoch of his life. In August of W 1' 272 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. this year he joined the geological survey under the di- rectorship of Sir Henry de la Beche, the local director for Englan i heing then, as now, Professor Kamsay, to whom Sir Henry addressed the following letter intro- ducing the new member of the staflf : London, Aug. 18, 1846. My dear Ramsay, — I have had a very satisfactory interview with Jukes, who appears a very fine fellowj and to love knowledge for its own sake. All is ar- ranged ; and as our corps is getting a thing desirable to join, I have found it desirable that he should join on the 1st of October. The pressure for unfit persons is a matter to be avoided. I have explained his duties, and that his instructions would come from you as di- rector for Great Britain. I expect it will be the day after to-morrow before I leave London for Dol J '/?/, via Shrewsbury and Dinas Mowddwy, I suppose. — Ever yours, H. T. DE LA Beche. Jukes comes at 9s. per diem. He seems to care very little on what terms, so that he comes. Good, this. Arduous and frequently exhausting as was the work of the survey, it was in itself a labour of love to Mr. Jukes at this period of his life, and possessed the great attraction of bringing him into intimate and hearty fel- FRIENDS ON THE ENGLISH SURVEY. 273 lowship with men of a kindred spirit, who were studying the same comprehensive chapter in the great book of Nature. In October he joined Professor Ramsay and Mr. Aveline at Bala, where Edward Forbes, who held the office of palaeontologist to the survey, soon after- wards made one of the party. Here the outdoor work, the invigorating air, the congenial companionship, and the freedom from care and conventionalities, combined to form a life peculiarly suited to Mr. Jukes' taste. The friends then made were friends for life, and amongst the most intimate and valued were Professor Ramsay and Edward Forbes. Of the correspondence in illus- tration of this triple brotherhood, the materials are as ample in the one case as they are wanting in the other, for unfortunately Mr. Jukes' letters to Forbes have not been preserved ; but the high estimation in which he held this beloved friend may be judged from the terms in which he speaks of him when death deprived the world of that bright spirit. The following is taken from the 'Address to the Geological Society of Dublin,' 1855: 'The bitter pang of personal regret for the loss of a dearly-loved and highly-valued friend mingles with, and renders more deep and acute, our sorrow for the extinc- tion of one of the great lights of our science. The ne'vs of his death fell upon my heart and that of others here present as a great public and private calamity. . . . His heart and his intellect were alike large and catholic T 274 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. in their instincts and capacities. He seemed not to perceive, or perceiving not to regard, the failings and imperfections of men ; but to look at their capabilities, and seek for and call forth what powers and good quali- ties they possessed. It mattered not to him of what party, of what sect, or of what nation a man was ; if he had in him any love for natural science, any desire or any pov/ei- of aiding its extension, he might be sure of hearty appreciation and effectual aid and encouragement from Edward Forbes. It wao this spirit of fellowship, this instinct of union and of solidarity (to use a newly- coined word) among all scientific men, which seemed the natural impulse of Forbes' mind, tha abst^-action of which may be a yet greater loss than even that of his own power of scientific investigation and discovery. . . . He was one of those who, while he would not hesi- tate to oppose openly and frankly the opinions of his best friends when they conflicted with hio own, never in so doing lost a friend, never, I believe, made an enemy of a stranger. Even in cases where much ig- norance or much error was displayed, if he thought it was exhibited in an earnest and honest endeavour af- ter truth, he would not only treat the shortcomings leniently in public, but give up much of his valuable time in private, to assisting and instructing the inquirer. I insist all the more strongly on this siae of Forbes' character because I think it is incumbent upon all his CHARACTER OF EDWARD FORBES. 275 friends to do their best to cherish and extend this spirit, which he by no means monopolised, but for which he was remarkably distinguished. The rancour and jeal- ousy and bitterness which for so long have been the reproach of scientific men have of late years greatly diminished. It is high time that they should altoge- ther cease to give cause for scandal to the rest of the world, and that those who claim to breathe a higher anri calmer atmosphere, to have their powers and facul- ties busied with purer and loftier subjects than the generality of men, should show the effect of this noble employment and this higher station, by exhibiting their minds and tempeis free from the little personal strifes and enmities, the jealousy and uncharitableness of com- mon life, and should be characterised by that generosity and largeness of heart which always puts the best, in- stead of the worst, construction on the actions of others, ahvays accepts and appreciates the good, and passes by and ignores the faulty and the bad. Men of science should look upon their common pursuit as giving them a claim on each other's consideration greater than what iiny difference of creed, or party, or country,, or wealth, or station, can injure or efface.' How truly, in thus describing the ' natural impulse of i'orbes' mind,' did his friend delineate his own ! Although it was known to the Editor that the cor- respondence between Professor Eamsay and Mr. Jukes 276 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. was very extensive and the confidence between them complete, she was still scarcely prepared to find in the letters kindly placed at her disposal such an entire un- folding of her brother's thoughts and feelings as amounts to an unconscious autobiography. Frank and outspokeii as he was on most subjects, he was yet somewhat re- served, or at least reticent, of his own feelings, and only revealed them where, as in this case, he was sure of the utmost sympathy, and could repose perfect trust. The office of selecting from materials so ample is one requiring both care and judgment. The first has not been spared, but the other is a faculty of ' unknown quantity,' and may be viewed in many lights. The non-scientific reader will perhaps consider that too many geological details have been retained. These, however, faithfully portray the operation of the survey and the kind of life led by the field-geologists, and will doubt- less possess much interest for those who know the valuable results of such minute and careful work. To Professor Ramsay. London, Sept. 29, 1846. My dear Sir, — I should have replied to your note earlier, but a severe cold has so clogged my brain as to hinder it from thinking. Thank you for your kind con- sideration ; I have, in fact, some business which will de- COMMENCING SURVEY-WORK. 277 tain me in town till the 1st. Having been so long used to a sedentary life, especially in so smoky an atmosphere as this, I am just at present shockingly out of con- dition, and incapable of much active exertion. I feel the cold, too, of the approaching winter most sensibly, after four years' luxuriating in a perpetual summer. I have little doubt, however, that the free air of the Welsh hills, and the use of my legs once more, will soon put me into a condition for work. — ^Believe me yours very truly, J. Beete Jukes. Wolverhampton, March 14, 1847. Dear Ramsay, — . ... I went yesterday to Stour- hridge on the top of the coach, and acquired a brutal cold and sore-throat by the operation. The railway cut- tings there have greatly disappointed me. The wretches have taken so high a level, that, instead of cutting through the Junction of the CM. and the Y.R.,* they actually bank it over. Only conceive such a piece of brutality ! Nevertheless, they will have to cut farther on, pretty close to the junction, and perhaps into it, as the ground rises, thank goodness ! pretty steeply. There are now three railways coming into this district this summer, the whole of which should be watched from * Initials of Coal Measures aud Young Red (sandstone). 278 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. time to time. Tliese are the Oxford, Worcester, and Wolverhampton, the Stour Valley, and the South Staf- fordshire Junction. Facts of great importance, both practically and scientij&cally, will turn up on all of them. Near Stourbridge at the present moment the outcrops of twc or three beds of coal are exposed, dip- ping everywhere from the Y.K. at an angle of 10° to 30°. There are also some beds of red and vaiiegated marl, interstratified with the true coal-measures ; a fact not of common occurrence in this country, I believe. I have always been highly interested in the, as yet, ur- solved problem of the condition of the coal-measures.' beneath the Y.K. plain of the centre of England. There are facts to be picked up here and there, round the edges of the present coal-field which tend to solve it, viz. on the southern edge of the Derby and Notting- hamshire, and of the North Staffordshire, and round all the edges of the Leicestershire, Warwickshire, South Staffordshire, and Shropshire fields, as also along the thin skirt of poor coal-measures running from Cheshire to the Forest of Dean. It is certain that great denuda- tion took place in the CM. before the deposition of the Y.R., and that even the present system of valleys in the carboniferous formation is of that early date. In many instances, what is called by the miners the bound- ary fault of the present coal-fields is no true fault at all, but merely the abutting of the Y.R. against an old EDGES OF THE MIDLAND COAL-FIELD. 279 cliff of CM. In other cases, however, the boundary of the two seems to coincide with a fault, as in the cut- ting of the Grand Junction near Wolverhampton some- thing of this kind was to be seen [Two pen-and-ink sketches are here inserted in illustration of the subject]. But I cannot be sure that even that was a true fault, as it might be debris of the old cliff, though, as far as I recollect, there were no pieces of coal in the beds of the Y.R., nor any pebbles — all fine sand. There are in other places true Y.R. beaches round the coal-field. Now they have already in two or three places sunk boldly into the Y.R. hereabouts at a distance of some miles from the present fields, but hitherto without piercing it. It would be a great feather in our caps if we si lould be able to give a decided opinion on the state of the coal beneath the Y.R., and where the best place was for making the attempt at reaching it. The materials for forming that opinion only want collecting. The period of denudation is still farther narrowed by the lowest lietls of the Y.R. passing down conformably and transi- tionally into the coal-field of Warwickshire, with the middle beds of the Y.R. resting unconformably on both. Excuse my telling you what I daresay you already know, but I just want to recall it to your mind, to sh5w the great importance of seizing the opportunity of collecting facts in the Midland counties at the present moment, ^vben they can be got. The opportunity may never m 280 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. i|.?d occur again, as they are about the last batch of railways now. I set out for Bala to-morrow, and should have done so to-day after receiving your letter, but thought I had better give my cold one day's nursing here than have, perhaps, to give it a week at Bala. — Ever yours truly, J. Beete Jukes. Kind regards to the staff. Bala, March 16, 1847. Dear Kamsay, — Just arrived, and got your letter; ohstupui, stetermitque comce, vox faucihus hcesit. Never- theless you are right in the main; but as I am here, would it not perhaps be better for me to finish this job, which I could do in a month, and then set to work at the Midland coal-fields ? I did not like to press the matter before, because I thought you might think I was working a dodge to try and get into my own country. As you have opened it, however, I can say freely, I think no part so urgent as the South Stafford- shire field, one so rich in so small a space, and so rapidly being worked out. Still, I think if I begin in April, I can entirely spiflicate it in the course of a summer. I will think it over to-night, as I fear to hear the mail coming up the street, and will write you more fully to-morrow. RAILWAY CUTTINGS—STAFFORDSHIRE. 281 March 17 (St. Patrick's day in the morning, half- past six A.M.). I have cogitated it over, slept on it, and cogitated again. The result of my deliberations is the following : It is highly important that sections should be kept of all the railway cuttings in and about the Mid- land coal-fields, especially near their boundaries. These sections, when complete, will be most useful documents in the survey of these coal-fields. There are now in progress the Trent Valley Kailway, from Stafford to Kugby, to be opened in May ; the Oxford, Worcester, and Wolverhampton, now cutting ; the South Stafford- shire Junction ; the Stour Valley line ; the Chester and Shrewsbury, and the Shrewsbury and Wolverhampton lines. Now these all want looking aftei, as well as some other lines and branches now going on. It would require somebody with a good horse to make the entire round of them, first of all rapidly, and then to take accurate sections of the most important spots. If, therefore, I were immediately to commence the survey of the South Staff'ordshire field, this work would have to be done by some one else. Again, the South Staf- fordshire and the other Midland coal-fields will be good winter's work, because much of it will consist in poking down pits, and going over mining plans with the 'agents,' copying their faults, and tracing the out-crop of coals, &c. These premises being granted, it appears to me m I ?SB 282 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. that if Captain Ibbetson, or any one else who is up to the dodge, can look after the cuttings on this group of railways during this summer, the survey of the South Staffordshire field might without injury, if not even advantageously, be deferred to the autumn. ... Be- lieve me, I take your offer as a very kind one. The Midland counties have always been a great object of geological ambition with me, and rather than that they should be consigned to any one else, I will be off imme- diately ; but I think I should feel more equal to them after a summer's work and sectionising here than I do now. Still, I am of course entirely at your disposal. Say the word, and I am off. If Captain Ibbetson can- not go to these railways, or if from any other reason you think I had better return to Staffordshire, ' Ay, ay, sir.' In that case, could you not contrive to give me a meeting either before or after your going to Builth ? A southerly breeze sprang up yesterday, and brought an infernal heap of clouds and deluge of rain here. It looks a little better this morning ; and if there is any chance, Gibbs and I set off at half-past eight for the country beyond Moel Migynau. — "Waiting your decision, believe me yours very truly, J. B. Jukes. BALA AND MO EL MIGYNAU. ^83 Bala, March 20, 1847. Dear Ramsay, — I just write to ask you to ask Sal- ter whether he knows any actual limestone south of Moel Migynau. If so, let him say as near the spot as lie can on the map. It will save me a deal of bother. Thursday being a model day, G. and I had a long ram- ble all over Moel Migynau and round about it, and down the valley we took our way, Where Afonfechan's waters play, But devil a limestone therein lay. The consequence was, I got so blistered about the heels, that when I pulled off my stockings, I pulled off my skin, and so got laid by the heels. Not being able to walk, I took a pony on Friday, and rode along the road up to Bwlch-y-groes, and found fossils by the roadsid 1 above Tyn-y-frou, but no limest ne. To-day being wet and windy, we rested ; and I shall not be able to do much till my heels get skinned over again. The fact is, I am rather out of training, and must get gradually into my work. I shall work Aran Benllyn country from Llanuchlyn, where is a public, when the equinoctial gales cease. It is now all in the clouds. In the mean time I shall work the Hirnant district. Gr. complains of pain in his side, and says this winter has nearly knocked him up. My dog Governor is too fond of mountain lamb. He killed one yesterday by the lake. . . . The assizes were held here yesterday. "H^^TP 284 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. but there was nothing to try. Two men blew two trumpets vilely out of tune, and as nobody did any- thing to them for it, the judge walked off. Fancy two asses braying, in a high key and a low one, and trying to make their voices harmonise without success, and you have just the noise they made. There is a big- little feud here about a fishing society who want to preserve the river. There is to be a public meeting at the Town Hall, *to stand up for the rights of the people of Bala.' Several Joneses have promised to address the meeting. ... Just got yours of yesterday. I think Captain Ibbet- son is right ; but there is a railway, which I believe to be the Oxford, "Worcester, and Wolverhampton, now cutting both about Stourbridge and Dudley. At the latter place it passes through Wenlock shale and tm]?, I believo in junction in one cutting. The old line from Birmingham to Chef^ter can't be done now. It is all covered with earth and grass. There are only two im- portant cuttings in it. Would that I had sketched them at the time ! but it was want of money, not want of will. The only part of the Trent Valley important will be, where it cuts the two coal-fields of South Staf- fordshire about Rugeley, and of Warwick near Tarn- worth — that is if it does cut them, which I don't know. March 22. We yesterday tried to carry on the Hir- nant to the northward, but could get no fossils north of . •^mM»Mi'»y TRACKING THE LIMESTONE. 285 Aber Hirnant. I completed rocks thence up to the river. Salter's information will be useful. The country south of Moel Migynan is so covered by drift, that there is little or nothing to be seen till we come to the Dinas Mowddwy road. March 23. Are you keeping the fast? It is a regular Sunday here, and I have forborne to go out from respect to the prejudices of the people. Gibbs found the continuation of the limestone of Y-Gelligrin l)eIow the road towards the house, showing a clear nice little fault of about fifty feet perpendicular in the proper direction. There is also another clear shift of twenty yards horizontally in same field. He also got it in the Aber Hirnant road across the brook, so that we can trace it now, almost without a break, from the road near Pont Cennant to the south side of Y-Gelligrin. Then comes the big jump on to the north side of Moel Fryn, where it is again almost continuous by Maesmeillion to the valleys east of Moel Migynau. Bala, March 30, 1847. Dear Eamsay, — I have received the books, &c., and thank you much. When will this winter end ? I walked home this afternoon in a heavy snowstorm. I have, however, discovered the clue to the momblement on the other side of the lake ; and by aid of the limestone and f« ' i 286 LETTERS OF % BEETE JUKES. an ash-bed, shall be able to lay down some faults ami guess at others. I have satisfied myself of the unity and persistency of the ash-bed. My notion of writing,' a paper was only a temporary whim ; but I shall be very happy to contribute my mite towards any more general afiair you may contemplate. My fancy was to give only a page or two of explanation on the qu^er twists and twirls there will be in the map, just saying how they come there, whether there was one bed or two, and whether the one was persistent, &c. If, how- ever, I can work out the faults with sufl&cient certainty to lay them down, the map will explain itself very nearly. I have written to William, giving him my notion of things about "Walsall. By the bye, was my paper read at the Geological last time ? March 31. Just got yours of to-day, as I have been staying in this morning, laying down my work. Alas, it is all confusion more than ever confounded. The fault that throws doivn the limestone throws up the ash. De'il bake them together ! . . . , It appears to me that Winter, not satisfied with the way in which he has done his work this year, is going to do it all over again ; or else it is next Winter that has somehow got a start before next Summer, and come tumbling in here to the aid of his expiring brother. ASH-BEDS AND FAULT— BALA LAKE. 287 Bala, April 20, 1847. Dear Eamsay, — As I had half an hour to spare to- day after coming home, before dinner was ready, I have amused myself with just tracing off against the window the enclosed copy of the present state of the Bala lime- stone and ash-beds. You recollect the pretty red lines we drew for the strike of the rocks ? There's rather a difference between them and the truth. I should like to see some one draw-in the faults. I think in a geo- logical examination, this would make a good problem ; only it would puzzle the examiner as much as his pupil. I am strongly of opinion that the two ash-beds are the same, or at least, if there are two on the west of the lake, the upper one is the same with that on the east of the lake. I am inclined to suspect also, that the Rhiwlas limestone is just the Bala, as I am sure that the limestone you and I traced last year is nothing else ; and Gibbs is of that opinion too, spontaneously. I think that, after the rocks were bent into that re- markable twist that smashes them towards the north, a fault ranged down Bala lake, and dropped the so bent and broken beds to the west. If we had the survey on the six-inch scale, I have no doubt we could make it out ; but it is impossible to unravel it completely with the one-inch. I believe now there is not a bit of ash anywhere I have not got in, except some bothering beds just under the limestone of Y-Gelligrin, which I am I lli: 288 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. going at to-morrow. I shall then charter a pony, and run down to the northward towards Dinas Mowddwy, where, if it please Heaven the heds run pretty regu- larly without these infernal smashes, I shall soon polish off the remainder. Gibhs has been all over the Caradoc sandstones, and reports no fossils. Thank goodness, I found some to-day, beyond Moel-y-gamedd, only just above the black slates, and shall send him there to- morrow. Then I shall send him to the southward; so I have got work for him for the present. My book is progressing. The first volume is nearly printed off. Boone says it will be finished to-morrow.* Ai^ril 23. I did not half believe the story of the Bala limestone coming down this way ; but it's a fact, and no mistake. By Blaen-y-pennant and Cwm Dine- wyd, there is a regular band of Bala limestone, six feet thick, striking off in this direction. When I got down here, I also heard of limestone on the Dolgelly road from this. At Blaen-y-pennant there are lots of fossils, but they appear to get scarcer down here. Do you know any limestones between Dinas and Dolgelly ? If they turn round that a ways, I shall want t'other sheet. A'pril 25. I have decided, unless you order to the contrary, that Gibbs should go downtoLlan-y-Mowddwy or Dinas Mowddwy — whichever he likes best — some time this week, and remain there for about a fortnight, at all * This refers to tlie Voyage of the Fly. DIFFICULTIES OF THE COUNTRY. 289 events. My inferences respecting Rhiwlas, Llwyn-y-ci, and Eglws Anne are not inferences at all. I have not been in that country yet. I only presume to guess from the smashed condition of the heds to the north- ward, of which I sent you a copy, that such would turn out to be the case. We shall see. I mean now to go to Llan-y-Mowddwy to-morrow, and finish the tail end of the Bala limestone and accompanying ash-beds, if any ; then to try and join that piece with the one about Moel Migynau, although, from the difficult nature of the country, I expect it will be almost impossible to do so. I shall then commence at Rhiwlas, and drive the whole country right before me to Cerrig-y-Druidion, as I shall then have the necessary data for so doing. I shall be chargeable in horseflesh, or else I shall never get the work done, it lies now so wide. I have given up walk- ing carefully over beds. You can never see the faults that way. I have had so many things like this (section), the fault being afterwards proved by other facts. I shall trust entirely to the limestones and ash-beds when laid down on map. — Yours, in haste, J. Beete Jukes. Bala, April 28, 1847. My dear Ramsay, — I have made up my mind now. I had never been to see the limestone in Rhiwlas u 1 290 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. grounds before Monday. At the very first glimpse of it, I could liave sworn it was the Bala. I have now been over the ground between here and Eglwys Anne carefully, and the whole thing is clear. There is but one bed of limestone in the whole country, and some three to five hundred feet below it, is a bed of ash more or less calcareous; the limestone also, in places, con- tains streaks and patches of ash. There may also be another bed of ash somewhere below the limestone, but that is at present doubtful. There is one consider- able but not enormous fault ranging down Bala Lake, and dropping the country to the west; many minor faults, more or less complicated, but mostly parallel to each other, cross this main fault at right - angles, and some also run parallel to it ; the pieces included be- tween these faults have settl.ed at various angles, pro- ducing dips in different directions, and there have been considerable contortions or bendings beside. There is nothing improbable in this statement. The Bala lime- stone being thrown from Y-Garnedd or Gelligrin to Khiwlas does not involve so great a throw as would its being pitched to Llwyn ToUyn or Bwlch-y-Tyno. It DQUst have been thrown to one of those places as it goes nowhere else. Suppose, before denudation took place, the limestone of Y-Garnedd rose at a slight angle (for its inclination there is very moderate) into the space over the lake and the Dee, a fault of five or six hundred LIMESTONE AND ASH-BEDS. 291 feet would easily drop it to Rhiwlas. On the supposi- tion that the limestone and ash are not the same beds, you have to account for a multitude of pieces of lime- stone, of precisely similar mineral and fossil character (and that mineral character a very peculiar one, so as to produce a distinct physiognomy in the weathered surface that can be recognised half a mile off), each piece of limestone having the same thickness, but not one of the pieces being half a mile long, and some of them only twenty yards; and that ash -beds set on below the limestone, always at about the same distance below, always as peculiar and similar in mineral com- position, and always varying in length with the bed of limestone above. But even then you would not solve the tlifilculty ; for sometimes the ash and the limestone approach each other and lie cheek by jowl, sometimes \rith apparent conformability, sometimes at right-angles. You would have farther to suppose that in adjacent tracts of country, as, for instance, to the northward, the various pieces of limestone and ash, instead of setting on at various levels throughout a thickness of many thousand feet, suddenly arranged themselves each into one line and went on regularly, and tbat the thickness of the whole mass was suddenly compressed into a few hundred feet. In this last remark I am again running f little ahead of my work ; but I am almost certain it will be verified by the run of the rocks to the south- W ' 292 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ward towards Bwlch-y-Groes and Dinas Mowddwy. Gibbs yesterday found the limestone in three places on Bwlch-y-Groes, all in a straight line. The state of -the case will be this. The rocks come up from the southward to the eastward of the range of the Aran, with a pretty regular and high dip to the east under the Caradoc sandstone. As they range to the north- ward, the lowest or western portion of the rocks are brought within the influence of the disturbances, and become more and more affected by them as they ap- proach Bala Lake. The highest parts and the Caradoc still run on unaffected, till they get into this line of dis- turbance north of Llanderfyd, where you found the great fault in the Caradoc. The disturbance there seems to have been concentrated into one blow. If you run from this point a line (N.E. and S.W.) down Bala Lake, does there not also seem to be a shift of the traps? Does it not look as if the traps of Aran were cut off by it and dropped to the westward ? Moreover, it coincides with that remarkable valley running that way. Father Adam says, the traps of Aran come in at a slightly higher level than those of Arenig. He is quite right in his conclusion, it appears to me, provided there is no fault, but if there is, the fault would produce the ap- pearance. A great fault, which acted as one split on thick hard compact things, like the Caradocs and the traps, might easily spread into a number of small faults LITHOLOGICAL DEDUCTIONS. 293 when passing through a comparatively soft and inco- herent country such as the Bala rocks. 1 believe it will be impossible on our maps to show all the faults, or even to say to ourselves precisely where they are. "We must trust to the general effect. How capitally, however, such an example as this shows the necessity of our survey ! Sharpe, or even sharp-eyed old Sedgwick himself, than whom no man had a quicker eye for a fault, or a tighter grasp for the bowels of a conntry, might have gone over here with their hasty traverses a dozen times, and fired scores of papers at the Geological Society, and only succeeded in puzzling themselves, perplexing their hearers, and utterly flab- bergasting their palseontological brethren (confound that long word, it tires one to write it; and after the effort of spelling it, I can't spell even a little one !). I wrote to Forbes yesterday to know if he had any objection to all the limestones being the same, or fragments of the same bed, telling him at the same time I did not care a rush whether he had or not. Do you recollect you and Aveline and me, first seeing the limestone at Creigiau Isaf one day, when Gibbs and William were hammering at it, and my swearing it was the Bala from the look of it ? From their report of the fossils, I gave 't up afterwards as the Rhiwlas, but I shall have now a greater respect for lithological character than I ever had before ; at all events whenever that character is —~ . \'l . "I lll 294 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. peculiar, and the result of the comhination of a great number of modifying circumstances, as I believe was the case with the Bala limestone. You see, I treat this as a certainty, because it would be useless to deny that I am sure of it. I will give you a week under my guid- ance to come to the same conclusion. Well, you see I have got my inferences to go at last ; but it was not by attempting to drive them through every gap, hut spurring them slap across the country, and leaping over all the stumbling blocks that came in the way. It is blowing a gale of wind with infernal showers, making it impossible to go to Bwlch-y-Groes, but I have still some small minute work about here with patches and frag- ments of ash, &c. One thing that convinces me I am right in this country is, that I can prophesy respecting it ; i.e. when I find one thing, I know where to look for another, and generally find it. I have one or two little tests of this kind still unworked. I spare you the rest. — Eemember me to Aveline, and belit^ve me thine ever, J. Beete Jukes. Please to put this scrawl up and keep it a bit, as it is partly prophetic, and I shall be glad to see if it comes true. Llan-y-Mowddwy, May 5, 1847. My dear Ramsay, — I have finished my work here jp?'o tempore, and to fill up the vacuum after dinner I am BEHAVIOUR OF THE LIMESTONE. 295 going to scribble to you. I left Bala on Monday morn- ing. During the last three days I have done five miles and a half of limestone, running in a straight line north 33° east. The last piece seen was within a mile and a quarter of Dinas Mowddwy, about Bryn Sion, in the Cow- arch Valley. That, however, I am sure is not the end of it, but it gets thin and concealed, and probably runs down in the flats of the Dyfi. I have accordingly left it for Gibbs to stumble across in his fossil explorations. It lies exactly as I expected, unbroken, but at a mean angle of 45°. A large part of its outcrop is concealed by the black bogs of these barren moors ; and it so happened that it invariably chose to make its appearance from under them, at the edge of the steepest and most preci- pitous places, and then plunged sheer down into valleys that turned me sick to look at them. In fact, I worked yesterday for some hours in an almost perpetual state of funk, and had no sooner got out of one stew than I was obliged to get into another. Gibbs went up a pre- cipice to-day that I did not dare to watch him on ; and yet I believe it was nothing to any one, but such a brain- spinning, topsy-turvy, toe-and-heel-staggering rascal as myself. I hope it will please Heaven that the Bala limestone will never get into such places again, or I ^nll throw my hammer at it, turn round, and have no- thing more to say to it. By the bye, between the Bala Hmestone and the Aran there appears to be some re- 296 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. verse or westerly dips, which are not down in the map. I got one S.W., and the other W.N.W., on a hill called Drysgol yesterday, and Gibhs reported another to-day on the south side of the hill called Pen-r'allt-isaf. The valley that goes up from Blaen-y-Pennant to the foot of Aran Mowddwy affords a very fair section in the brook, although llie hill-sides are covered up. There are no ash-beds either above or below the limestone hereabouts, although the limestone is ashy in places. It alters its character very much at Blaen-y-Pennant, where is a blue calcareous slate, muddy, and not at all calcareous- looking, but quarried and burnt for lime. It recovers the Bala character, however, to the southward, and for a mile south of the place, where said it died out. The fossils accompany the limestone in full force as far as the Cowarch Valley at least, and for all I can see, they are likely to go on to Machynlleth. The first night I slept in this little public, after amusing a Idtchenful of people all the evening by trying to talk Welsh, I was awoke in about half an hour by a tingling which I found to proceed from a myriad of fleas. I feared there would be hardly enough of me left to get up in the morning. As soon as it was daylight, I jumped up ripe for slaugh- ter, and killed a dozen. The rest escaped, but I put myself into bed again as a bait, and when I felt them busy, made another onslaught; and so on till I had made a visible diminution in the numbers of the enemy. Last ZOOLOGICAL DIGRESSION. 297 night, being knocked up with hard work, I slept in spite of thunder or fleas, and only found four or five this morning, so I hope to have some little peace to-night. How brutally cold it was on the hill-tops yesterday, in spite of the sun ! My big dog Governor always goes Avith me, and is the admiration of all the peoples. I knocked the old fellow up yesterday.* Tell us what you mean by fossils on Dinas Mowddwy. May 8. Very shortly after we parted the other day, Gibbs again struck on the limestone in the bed of the * This was the Newfoundland dog previously alluded to, his unfailing companion on the Welsh liills during many a long day's work. Great affection for animals had always been a trait in Mr. Jukes' character, and met with tlie usual response from those creatures — so dumb in words, so eloquent in action and ex- pression. Dr. Ingleby, who visited him in Dublin in 1801, and sympathised in his cousin's love for animals, thus writes : ' It would do your heart good to see Beete with the beasts in the Zoological Gardens. Not only is he fearless, but he has a strange power over them — by affection, not by fear. The leopard plays with him lilte a great cat ; he scratches the two tigers with Ms bare hand, and takes all sorts of liberties with the old lion, the lioness, and her cubs. There is also a hyena, who fears every one but Beete, and is quite attached to him ; but of all the creatures (and Beete knows them all personally) , the leopardess is the most friendly. Whon she sees him coming, or hears his voice afar off, she positively dances for joy; and when he comes up welcomes him with every sign of doating affection.' Mrs. Jukes fully sharing her husband's fondness for ani- mals, their house in Dublin was like a menagerie on a smaU scale, and the breakfast-table was attended by dogs of various sizes, a cat or two, and a very lively and affectionate cockatoo. 298 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Dyfi, just where we had urged it was lilcely to go, and traced it for half a mile from near Aber Cowarch to the *w' of Tyn-y-PwU, within half a mile of Dinas Mowddwy. He says it is as thick, strong, and character- istic there as anywhere near Bala, with some six or eight feet of ' handed' beds, and some hard gray crystalline limestone underneath them, the thickness of which can- not be seen for the river. Not a soul in the neighbour- hood knows of it, and they want lime shockingly. It lies precisely where I had drawn a pencil-line for its probable position, if it went on unbroken by faults or curvatures. On returning from Llan-y-Mowdd^vy, I brought it on a little farther northward in the regular straight line north 30° east, as far as half a mile north of * bwlch' in Tan-y-Bwlch. We have it now, therefore, running in a directly straight line for seven miles paral- lel to the Aran. To the south it seems to be either broken or bent suddenly, as there are some due south dips near Dinas Mowddwy. To the northward a strong ash-bed suddenly comes in at the top of Craig-yr-ogof, and the limestone is for the present gone to Jericho, and I can't go after it till it please Heaven to raise the thick curtain of clouds and mists and storms in which the hills are enveloped. About the top of Craig-yr-ogof there are the biggest, brutalest, brownest, barrenest, boggiest moors in the country ; and just when I was in the dreariest centre of one the other day, it began to LEA VE OF ABSENCE. 299 blow and rain like fury. Yesterday it rained, and I rested ; to-day I could rest no longer, so marched out into the mist, and got a soaking for my pains ; hut I think made out the stumptailedness of one piece of ash that had puzzled me. But why am I hothering you with all this now ? Will it not have to be talked of in the day when we meet each other face to face ? What I want to ask you now is a question concerning the rules of the service. Can we ask, or can you grant, leave of absence in case of the death of a relative ? My uncle, whom I left in London, is, I hear, very ill, and not likely to recover. Should he not do so, it is probable that it will be necessary for me, as the only one ac- quainted with his affairs, and the one in whom he has always most confided, to go up and superintend his funeral, &c. How am I to manage in such a case ? I was asked this week to come to the wedding of a cousin. This, however, I decidedly negatived, on the plea that 'the service did not admit of it.' The other affair, how- ever, should it occur, will be no party of pleasure, but one which, if it devolved upon me, I should think it my duty to undertake. This question I want answered by return if possible. It appears our letters go by Aberyst- with. Yours had been three days on the road, so that I could get an answer from Paris just as soon as from Builth. On May 4, 1 stood over shoe-tops in snow. I am now 300 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. just going to correct the last sheet but one of the Voxj- age of the Fly, of which I am heartily tired. I begin, now I see it in print, to fear it is a very trashy affair. However, it will perhaps sell all the better for that. If William is with you, ask him what he has done with my maps. He was to send them to * A. H. Browne, "Wolverhampton ;' but Browne has not received them. Hooker wants them, as he goes down there directly.— Believe me yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. Bala, May 23, 1847. My dear Eamsay, — Last Thursday the weather be- came fine, it having rained for several days previously as hard as it could pour. I accordingly set to work, and have had three days' regular labour. I found more ash-beds N. of the Llaithgwm one, and traced them in as far as Llwyn Gwegian. The next day I got a pony, and went N. over Cader Benllyn and Moel Eglwys, all slate dipping S. ; thence down to Cerrig-y-Druidion, slate with a westerly dip. Thence to Cader Dinmael, where the Bala limestone is in greater force than near Bala, but is much broken, and goes sprawling over the hill in all manner of directions. Then returned to Cer- ' rig-y-Druidion to sleep. . . . While on Cader Dinmael, I seemed to feel as if some gree,t change vv^as about to BALA AND ITS LIMESTONE. 301 take place in the character of the country, nud I see Sedgwick draws the upper Silurians over all the country lound by Pentre Voelas and N. of Cerrig-y-Druidion, so that what becomes of our rocks Heaven only knows. I have just read over Father Adam's paper on North Wales, and I see he has looked on the physical structure of this country with his accustomed accuracy and saga- city. His * enormous dislocations' are positive facts, only, being more enormous than he imagined, or at least being more frequent, he has taki for different hedswhat are in reality repetitions of the ^<\>. .q. Sharps iusists on the Hirnant limestone in two or turee places ; so though I don't believe in it, I must have another look at it. But I mean first to get out the Bala lime- stone thoroughly as a base. When I have done that, I think I had better just ride over to Llanwddyn on the one side, and to Yspytty Evan on the other ; as Father Adam says the Bala limestone is at the former, Sharpe at the latter place. While I have its characters in my eye, I think I had better determine these points. What say you ? I shall have two or three pounds horse -hire, but as it is only five shillings a day, that is not much. I heard from Selwyn yesterday, but his letter had been six days on the road. Gibbs has not found any more limestone yet, but describes very large trilobites on Moel Dinas, much larger than any at Bala, but other fossils growing much scarcer, as if dying out. I f4 I 302 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. am not at all satisfied about that country, and think that when the boundaries are traced in, you had better take a month to traversing it about and about. As soon as I hear that Smythe is there, I shall go over for a day or two and have a squint at it myself. May 28. Being too utterly sleepy to answer you last night, I have arisen at five this morning, partly for that purpose, and partly to lay down yesterday's work. Selwyn came here the night before last. He is now gone to bathe in the lake, taking my big dog Governor, and his own spaniel Carlo, to pull him out again. Perhaps you will hardly believe it, but I am almost knocked up. I have had a week of downright toil, never returning till 8 p.m., and never sitting down during the day ; consequently I am stiff in the hips, shaky in the ankles, and altogether groggy. I have succeeded in carrying the ash across the big Cwm Chwilfod fault, although in a most spifflicated and broken condition; but the limestone won't show. Selwyn and I hammered every piece of rock yesterday, from Cryniath and Erw- feirig to the top of Cwm Cywen, and from Pentre-cwm- da to Llawr-cwm, and the limestone ain't nowhere no- hows. I contemplate to-day restirg myself on a pony, and riding between that and Pont-y-glyn-difi'wys, sleeping at the Goat Inn or Cerrig-y-Druidion ; and to-morrow making a dash right out north, and seeing what those HARD WORK AND ROUGH QUARTERS. 303 rocks really are. If the Caradoc sandstone curves round there, it is very shortly succeeded by something else, as they bring flags here, from a place a little N. of the Corwen sheet, which are coverCvi with beautiful Creseis and Cardiola, and other fossils quite diflferent from any in these rocks. While this fine weather lasts, I mean to make vigorous play ; and if my own legs won't serve me, why I must borrow four more. If I can only get the limestone up to Pont-y-gd, I shall sleep happy to- night. June 6. I got yours of the 2d yesterday. I have now devoted a solid week to the country between Cwm Chwilfod and Pont-y-glyn-diff'wys ; and as far as the position of the limestone goes, I am as wise as ever. There is a public at a place called Tyn-y-nant, where I shared a bedroom with the coachman of the Holyhead mail, and there is the Goat Inn. I have slept every other night at one of these places, vibrating between them, and spending the whole day in the field, either hunting or cogitating. It's a queer spot. I have got the ash-beds on, although much broken ; and I have looked at the Caradoc in your boundary, which is quiet enough. . . . I am sorry you find so much perplexing work where you are ; it only shows how necessary it will be to pub- lish a second edition of some of the earlier sheets, worked by the light of the more modern ones. ... On 304 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Selwyp's return, we'll have a go at the maps, polish off the west side of the Bala sheet, and then proceed to the desolate moors of Cerrig-y-Druidion. — Ever yours, J. B. Jukes. (Terrig-y-Druidion, Aug. 22, 1847. My dear Ramsay, — I am very sorry to hear your foot is still so bad. I hope you will shortly come to a better understanding.* * Ash, sir, ash,' is still the go, a little piece here and a little piece there, here a strip and there a patch, and then a sprawl. I have, however now driven the beggars into a corner, and fairly sue ceeded in jamming them up into a narrow passage be tween the traps on the one side and the Caradocs on the other, only a mile and a half wide. What has become of the limestone from the top of Cader Dinmael to Yspytty, Heaven only knows. You would get an exceeding curt note from me regarding the maps. I was in haste when I wrote it, having fallen asleep the night before, when I intended to write it. And how is the Forbesian hero ? He of the long bones, * the starve- ling, the elf-skin, the tailor's yard, sheath, bowcase; 0, for breath to utter what is like him !' I slept at * This refers to a severe sprain which Mr. Ramsay got while with Sir H. de la Beche on Glyder-Fawr, Caernarvonsliire, and of which he was trying to get cured while on a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Jolmes of Dolaucothy, Caennarthenshke. LITERARY SCRAPS. 305 Bala on Friday night, and Mrs. Jones inquired very particularly after both of you. She hoped Mr. Forbes was better; he did look so very ill when he was there. I should recommend him to drink whey while in Wales; my dog Governor is growing fat upon it, and it might suit the Forbesian anatomy. * Good counsel — marry take it, take it.' I verily think I could write an entire letter this morning of Shakespearian quotations. Did you never feel your brain in a complete ferment and hurly-burly, with all kind of three-cornered scraps and brecciated angular fragments of poetry flying about it in all directions, and jostling each other at every angle, ^yithout any kind of purpose or arrangement ? ' Wit, whither wilt?' I heard from Darwin yesterday. He wants some pedunculated cirripedia ; but I have told him all my spiritual exercises, procured on the Australian coast, are now buried in the deep, deep sea of the vaults of the British Museum. By the bye, in the second review of the Athencsufn of my book, they have a go at me about shooting the black fellows ; and say, * Mr. Jukes should recollect it is the triumph of the moral and cul- tivated man to subdue such resentments,' &c. What a lark ! Fancy their addressing me gravely as a moral and cultivated man ! How I should like to get the chap that wrote that, in a boat-cruise on the coast of New Guinea ; keep him out for three days in a heavy sea ; feed him on salt-beef, rum, and tobacco; make him sleep X mm 306 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. on a board in a flannel-shirt and nu pillow \ and then take him into a scrimmage with a lot of black fellows. I'd then ask him how he felt in his morality and culti- vation, and whether they sat easy on his stomach, or not. Well, here comes the post with the newspapers, which saves you from any farther infliction of my non- sense ; so with best love to Forbes, believe me ever yours truly, J. Beete Jukes. After another careful look at the ash-dyke, I think it possible it may be the result of a complicated kind of fault, but if so, it's a very rum one. There is a clear fault in a quarry hard by, that produces a distant ap- proximation to that kind of thing. The following note, taken from Mr. Jukes' address to the Geological Society of Dublin, in 1855, already referred to, may serve to illustrate the difficulties of surveying the country, from which most of t'lese letters were written : * I had once been working hard for about five weeks, trying to understand and delineate on the one-inch map a coFiiplicated bit of mountain ground a few miles south of Conway, in North Wales. It was made up of inter- SOLUTION OF GEOLOGICAL PUZZLE. 307 stratified slates, sandstones, and felstones, with large find irregular masses of intrusive greenstone, the ex- posed parts of each being frequent, but not continuous. Many a weary day had I climbed the sides and clambered along the crags of a hill, some five 01 jix miles in length, by two or three in breadth, and the highest peak of which was not more than 1800 feet above the sea, trying in vain to reduce to order the seemingly endless complexity of its structure, and having at length on the map as curiously complex a patchwork of incon- gruous colours and unnatural forms as Punch, had he turned geologist, could have devised ; when one evening, as, after a hard day's work, I was descending a steep bit of ground, . almost in despair at all my labour seeming to be thrown away, I hit upon the clue to a great fault or dislocation. I had only time then to verify the ob- servation, but it gave me at once the solution of all the puzzle ; and in two or three days I was enabled to map the whole district, with as near an approach to accuracy as the scale of the map admitted of. The country was chopped up by a series of large parallel faults, that were quite easy to be seen when once the clue to one of them and its bearings were obtained, but which there ^s nothing to render a priori probable, and which could not have been discovered without that thoroughly exhaustive process of examination which I was enabled to apply to the district. I have ever since regretted 3o8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. that, in my haste and joy at acquiring a right notion, I obliterated all my former work from the map which con- tained it; for I should have been glad to preserve it now as a curious instance of the contrast between laborious hypothesis and the simplicity of natural truth.' Yspytty Evan, near Pentre Voeks, Denbighshire, Aug. 28, 1847. My dear Eamsay, — As usual, I send you a report of proceedings. I told you I had traced the ash -beds into the narrow passage between the traps and the Caradocs; I have now got them through it. In the first place, they confirm the unconformability of the Caradoc, inasmuch as I get the upper ash running in a straight line for a mile, and approaching in one place within a quarter of a mile of the base of the Caradoc, the dip of the ash be- ing 15°, that of the Caradoc 25° nearly in same direc- tion. This proves that the cross of the limestone is under the Caradoc, which is confirmed a little farther on by its appearing from under it very near its bound- ary. In the next place, I get two lines of ash, one broken, the other continuous, but each pointing directly for a mass of stratified trap, rather thicker and more massive than the ash, but not greatly so, and occupying the same relative position in the slate-rocks as the ash- beds do. These traps, however, do not appear to ex- TRAPS AND ASH-BEDS. 309 tend very far to the west, but the country is much covered with drift and bog. A little farther west (about a mile) there is, however, below the limestone, about the same place as the upper ash, a line of detached patches of a most curious rock. This is sometimes a regular flaky ash, at others a hard siliceous trap, full of Liodular concretions about the size of apples, and being either agates or chalcedony. Each concretion is formed of concentric coats of white compact milky quartz, and they are in fact agates. They are frequently so thick as to compose the whole mass of the rock. ... If in- clined to speculate a bit, we might say, on the suppo- sition that the ash-beds are really the product of sub- aerial ashes, tbat the wind was westerly during the eruptions, and blew the ashes from where the traps are, towards the east. On, to my mind, the more probable supposition — that these eruptions were submarine — the currents must have set to the eastward, and drifted the debris and lighter materials in that direction, forming what we call the ash-beds. Anyhow, it appears that this is a most curious and interesting country when it comes to be worked out in detail. It requires, however, very close work and much walking. How the engraver will ever get in all the bits of ash scattered over the country, and the colourer avoid missing them, I don't Imow. I hope by this time that you are at last on the mending tack. Don't make yourself uneasy; the summer 310 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. is done as far as you are concerned, and therefore you have only to make yourself comfortable, and take care you don't contract a permanent lameness by working too soon. I have supped full of praise ; in fact, it is very well I am in a little quiet place here, where nobody regards literary reputation, and where accordingly the inflation consequent on so much flattery can quietly work itself ofi" without producing any evil consequences. Daily News, Morning Post, Atlas, Spectator, Mornimj Herald, &c. have all been praising my book ; the latter is quite sugary as regards myself personally. I really wish some one would set to work to attack me, if it was only to prick the flatulency of self-conceit that is ' blow- ing me up like a bladder.' The Atlas does have a dig at me for shooting, or wishing to shoot, a black fellow; and the Morning Post spits on my notions of protection and monopoly in Java; but both these things I ex- pected in much worse fashion than they have given me, so that they fail of their effect as flabbergasters. If they'll only contrive to sell the book, so that I may ballast with a little gold against all these puffs and breezes, I shall be content. By the bye, we get the Bala fossils here for Forbes, but not very plentifully. Gibbs, however, reported something fresh yesterday, along with many univalves, turbinolopsis, and beads of illaenus. Some orthoceras and encrinites ; no cystidea yet. Love, to his lengthiness and yourself. REVIEWERS— THE CARADOCS. 311 Yapytty Evan, Sept. 6, 1847. I have just received yours of the 2d, per Aberystwith, Shrewsbury, and Bangor — a pretty little round. Last v!eek'& Atheficeum has never arrived at all; it is pro- bably still on its travels round about the principality. I shall be compelled to write to the Caernarvon Herald and touch up the Post-office. I am sorry that your understanding is still in such a crippled condition, and that you are compelled to ride the high-horse in conse- quence. Mind he does not come down with you and damage your other extremity; in our work a man might very nearly as well be without his head, as laid by the heels. I hope when you arrived at Kington you re- ceiyed a pretty long letter from me anent these parts. Since then I have traced two or three miles of lime- stone, which in one place rests directly upon a great boss of trap, in others has a large ash-bed for a sup- porter. The curious knobby trap made of agate nodules still runs on in detached lumps about same distance below Hmestone as did the ash-beds in the Bala coun- try. So far all well ; but on approaching the Caradocs, I am in a shocking state of confusion. ... I had a very hard day on Saturday, and drew at last two boun- daries half a mile or more apart from each other, and can only say that on the farther side one is certainly Caradoc, the other Bala ; but what is the intermediate, I do not know. Then there are such dips as N. 20°, "W. 312 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. at 80°, N.E. at 10°, N. at 70°, S.W., and all higgledy- piggledj'. There is a great lot of massive hard sand- stone south of this place, and whether above or below the limestone, be hanged if I know — (stop till I fill my pipe ; so !) Neither can I connect the two pieces of limestone that lie one south and one west of this place. Altogether, I feel rather in a fix. However, as usual, if he won't run, he must jump; and if I can only get a week or two more fine weather, I'll ram the spurs into him, and make him go somehow. On the morning of the 2d, having heard something of partridges being seen while they were cutting the corn at the back of the house. Governor and I arose up early in the morning, I carrying my gun, and walked quite promiscuous-like into the stubble. Old Gov. be- gins sniffing and wagging his tail, makes a bolt, up springs the covey, and down comes one. While mark- ing them down, however, the old rascal (it being his first essay in the business) had very nearly swallowed the bird, thinking it was knocked down solely for his gratification. Walked on. Gov. busy. Down comes a brace ; secured one whole, and whipped him for spoil- ing the other, and showed him how to handle them gently. Ground belongs to Lord Mostyn. I met the old gentleman one morning. He was very civil, and said when we came into Flintshire he should be happy to show us any civility that lay in his power. Mean to PARTRIDGE-SHOOTING— WINTER WORK. 313 have a regular day before I leave this. Partridges are a very good alterative when on a course of mutton. . . . Winter has set in here, and has put me considering on the future. It is very evident that I sha'n't be able to finish this tract of country, including Llanrv^^st, be- fore the snow comes. Now, is it expedient that I should winter at Llanrwst ? There is a wide tract of country to the west there that can only be done in fine weather, and, I think, with a tent ; as there is not a house near it, and the hills nearly as big as Snowdon (to be sure, that may not be Bala beds), but Selwyn thinks they go up to Dolwyddelan, another wild tract. Now, if you think it better, I shall of course be happy to stick at it; hut really it appears a kind of country in which winter work will not be very productive of results to the survey. Would it not, then, be better that I should take the winter in the South Staflfordshire coal-field, the out- Hues of which I have already mapped, and where I could he occupied in preparing pit - sections, &c., from the different coal-owners' documents? Kain or fine won't make much difference there, as the coal-field is all co- vered with rubbish, and I shall have to trust to the mining plans and old butty colliers for the outcrop of beds and course of faults, &c. &c. Just turn it over in your mind. Don't think I am working a dodge. Never mind which would be pleasanter to me, but just decide which is most expedient for the survey. I thought 314 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. it better to mention it now, in order to be prepared as to lodgings at Llanrwst and other arrangements. Of course I must carry these beds up to some definite point before ^"^nving, so that I, or any one else, could pick them again. Selwyn went to Capel Curig yesterday. We shall meet shortly, and hold a consultation. I am happy to hear Forbes is looking so blooming. I sup- pose there is no chance of your or his reaching these parts this autumn. Very quiet this place. All gone to bed, and nothing to be heard but the roar of the Conway, swollen by the rains. Good-night; and believe me ever yours most truly, J. BeETE J JKES. Sept. 1 Dearly-beloved Brethren, — When the fossil man picketh up a fossil, and bringeth it unto me, and be- hold the form thereof is strange unto my eyes, then shall I make a sketch thereof, and send it unto the elders, and they shall pass judgment thereupon (c. x. V. 6 and 7). In the words just read you have, my brethren, the direction of the writer as to what is to be done in a case that unfortunately does not often arise, and so forth. Gibbs found the other day in a wall what I take to be a pseudocrinas. He found out where the stones came from. Its place is below the Bala limestone — pro- NEW FOSSIL DESCRIBED. 31s bably four or five hundred feet below it. I send a rough sketch of the thing, but we have also the lump of stone out of which it came, and which shows some curious features ; more especially the mark as if a soft bag had proceeded from the centre of * Z;,' like the dome-shaped bag in a comatula. There are also the arms, of which those on ' V are casts. A piece remains in one ; my sketches are too rough, however, to describe it. The plates seem hexagonal, but they have all suffered in the squeeze it has had. I send the sketch, as Forbes may wish to have the specimen directly. Gibbs has also found the limestone between Penmachno and Dolwyd- delan, where I sent him the other day. Penmachno is too far from the Caradoc boundary to be a good place for me. Indeed, I could get no rooms, unless I applied for Lord Mostyn's shooting-box, which a gentleman told Selwyn he could get for us. Meanwhile, it is getting expensive in this confounded tourist country. They wanted twenty-five shillings a week for two little poking rooms at Bettws-y-Coed in a small cottage that was a public — merely for the rooms, and find yourself. By the bye, both Gibbs' and my compass are spiflicated. I am going to try and remagnetise them, but fear I sha'n't succeed, in which case I must send them both up to London. "Would it not be a good dodge to have a few spare needles and cards at the office in boxes made on purpose, which could be sent at once in such 3i6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. a case ? They have spare ones on board ship always. I don't ihink I can go on without the conapass to fix myself. — Your worship's most obedient, J. Beete Jukes. Yspytty Evan, Sept. 22, 1847. My dear Ramsay, — In your last note you talk of the ' massive genuine erupted lavas ;' and then you say the parts we now see never were at the surface till exposed by denudation. Now, according to my notions, that is a direct contradiction of terms, since lava cannot be lava unless poured out not only at, bat on to the sur- face. Perhaps you merely meant by 'lava' igneous rock generally. I think, however, it is bad to get into the habit of talking loosely on these points, since it is apt to mislead the uninitiated. It is very evident that c X, r geological terms for igneous rocks have very rarely any reference to their chemical constitution (even the mineralogist considers two things as totally different minerals which are almost chemically the same^ as mica and horneblend), but have reference principally to differ- ences caused solely by the different conditions under which they were placed. The same identical mass of matter may form granite or obsidian, just according to circumstances. ... I doubt whether even the term submarine lava can be admissible except in those instances in which a stream NOMENCLATURE OF IGNEOUS ROCKS. 317 of lava, after flowing on the land, reaches the sea, and falls into it. Igneous rock poured out under a deep sea can never be lava certainly. I enter into this question because I am sure the time in fast approaching when the whole nomenclature of igneous rocks will have to be re- vised, and we ought to be up to the mark and ready to enter on the question. I see some foreign chap has been saying that quartz veins are often injected while fluid from heat : what I have seen near here leads me to agree with him, and also that they have altered the rocks through which they pass. Wherever we find large quartz veins here, the rock is either genuine trap —compact, smooth, splintery, siliceous stufi" — or else a sandy or siliceous rock, that is hardly distinguishable from trap. On the other hand, some of this compact stuff contains fossil shells ; so that I am sometimes tempted to consider the traps (of the Arenig, for instance) as merely a mass of rock altered by heat, consisting, we will say, originally of such materials as a low degree of heat would easily affect, and containing perhaps here and there small eruptive points, near which the rocks have really been fused. Such a degree of heat might not produce any greater change on the other rocks, such as the sandy and muddy slates, than we know has been produced, viz. their intense consolidation and their slaty cleavage. Under this view, all porphyry which merely contained crystals dispersed through a ill 318 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, compact base would not be genuine igneous, but merely a highly metaphoric rock, same of hornstone and all similar compact rocks. This would make crystallisa- tion the test of igneous fluidity, except in the case of lavas, obsidians, &c. poured out under the air. Baro- meter rising, so I'm off. (8 o'clock, P.M.) Lost the thread of the above dis- course, so we'll call another subject. I've had a hard, perplexing, and most unsatisfactory day's work. To describe it, I must quote Punch : Report. The commissioner required to report on the Carado- cian boundary, in the neighbourhood of Pentre Voelas, begs to report accordingly : There is no Caradocian boundary in the neighbour- hood of Pentre Voelas. (Signed) The Commissioner. Not that I mean to assert there is no Caradoc. There is, on the contrary, abundance. Still less do I affirm it to be boundless, seeing that a mile to the westward there is none. Where the boundary is, however, and what it is — whether formed by a lot of jagged faults, with long needle-shaped pieces of the two formations dove-tailed into each other — whether pieces of the Cara- doc sandstone are pitched in below the Bala limestone, or pieces of the Bala limestone thrown atop oftheCara- THE CARADOCIAN BOUNDARY. 3^9 ut merely e and all rystallisa- le case of ir. Baro- above dis- lad a hard, work. To doc, Heaven only knows. I give it up. All I shall say is, * it is somewhere hereabouts,' as the merchant-captain said of the ship's place, when he spread his hand over the chart. It must be worked from above, by tracing the beds of the upper part of the Caradoc, which I leave the illustrious Aveline to perform. By the bye, I see in some of the papers in the Geological Journal they talk of the Terebratula navicula as confined to the Lud- lows. Will you tell Fubbs we found it near Cerrig-y- Druidion in a bed of semi-calcareous slate, associated with Rhiwlas fossils, and which may be in the parallel of the Bala limestone. It's all nonsense those Palaeonts trying to confine bits of fossil shells within two mathe- matical planes. I believe now that these Bala beds, after sweeping round the north end of the Arenig trap, begin to be affected by several big contortions. They run in a short broken trough up this valley. The next valley to the west, that of Penmachno, is on the axis of an an- tichnal ; the one beyond that, Dolwyddelan, on one of a synclinal; and up that these Bala beds will run — I believe to Beddgelert from Selwyn's account, and that they rest with an easterly dip against the east flank of Snowdon, according to yours. The most perplexing point is to get them to turn the corners nicely here towards the Caradoc. However, we made a good find the other day of limestone and trap north of the Conway, just where they were wanted. I think your ideas about Gibbs 320 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. good. One thing is plain : it is mere waste of time to remain amongst these high hills in the winter — they are often enveloped in clouds and storms when it is quite bright and fine even at Cerrig-y-Druidion. Well, I should say you'd had enough ; so good-night to you and his lengthiness. ■ ' Yspytty Evan, Sept. 25, 1B47. Yours of the 21st arrived yesterday. I think it will be just as well to take the South Stafford coal-field first, and clear it out entirely. It is a separate district, an island in the Y.R., extending from Rugeley to Stour- bridge, and from Wolverhampton to Barr Beacon. For this purpose, therefore, sheet 62 will be sufficient. From Coalbrook Dale to the Glee Hills is another natural dis- trict, which, especially about Bridgenorth and Bewdley, will be more important from the deductions to be drawn from it than from the value of the beds themselves. I look upon the Bridgenorth and Bewdley coal-field, ami that between Coventry and Tamworth, as the districts io enlighten us on the true relations between the coal- measures of the Y.R. In each of these coal-fields there is a perfect passage from the CM. into the Y.E. itself, and an unconformability consequent thereon. Now it is clear the lower Y.R., conformable to the CM., repre- presents the rothe todte liegende beds ; but whereabouts SOUTH STAFFORDSHIRE COAL-FIELD. 321 is the place of the Mag. L. ? Murcliison says this latter is represented by some hands of cornstone which occur well up in the horizontal beds of the Y.K. But I think there is a perfect passage and conformability from those beds up to the lias, and that consequently these red horizontal beds are the Banter sandstone, the lower mem- ber uf the Trias. I suspect also that the Mag. L. ought to come in, in the place of the break in the Y.R., and that the absence of the Mag. L. was caused by the move- ments of disturbance going on in the Midland districts while that bed was being deposited on the north and south. It is another case above the coal similar to the absence, or almost entire absence, of the Mountain L. below the coal, and probably due to similar cause, viz. that either the bed of the sea was in process of disturb- ance, or that having been disturbed, it formed dry land, &c. A corollary of the thorough working out of the Midland districts, and comparison between N. and S., trac- ing the marine and fresh-water beds, &c., may perhaps be, some light thrown on the origin of coal as connected with movements of elevation and depression. Another deduction of great practical importance will be the state of the base of the Y.R., and of the carboniferous rocks be- low it. One might almost say the latter question was one of vital importance to the future greatness of the empire. Bravo! hurrah! strike up, band, * When Britain,' &c. &c. As to driving these beds here into a corner, it's no 322 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. go. They won't stick, but slip out again on one side, and are oflf for Bedgellert. One thing, however, I did yesterday — being a fine day, for a wonder — was to dove- tail my work into Selwyn's, and solder them together into a compact mass. What do you think of the ash- beds of Bala being identified with the ash-beds to the north of the Ffestiniog slate quarries. I have not yet quite all the links of the chain, but enough to satisfy myself of the fact. I told you my upper ash passed into trap, and then into the hyperbolic rock. This rock goes on capitally at just the proper distance below the limestone, and they both cross the anticlinal of the Penmachno Valley, and dip under the synclinal of that of Dolwyddelan. I have got a very calcareous gray ashy trap, or trappy ash, in the place of the lower ash- bed of Bala and Cerrig-y-Druidion, just at the top of the black slates ; and this, in like manner, goes from this side of the anticlinal to the other, and then strikes off for Selwyn's long narrow lines of ash, of which Gibbs says the lower is just the same material on Moel Far- llwyd. ... I think if I work these beds all north of the Conway, and east of it, and all between the Conway aud the Lledr to the south and west, I shall have got them to a very convenient boundary. A fine fortnight at Bettws would do this. They are from five to seven miles away from here now, across the most up and downiest kind of country into the bargain. A FANCIFUL EPISODE. 323 A strange and marvellous History of a Temptationf and what befell thereon. On the day of the week called Wednesday, and on the 22d day of the month which men call September, there came unto me early in the morning a great devil, in the likeness of the keeper of the Lord Mostyn, a mighty shooter of birds, and he said unto me, 'Sir, if it seemeth good unto thee, let us now rise up early on the morrow, and go into the land of Gwydir, to the place called Trefriw, the which country belongeth unto the Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, and the keeping thereof is in my baud. And it aboundeth in grouse, and in partridges, and in woodcocks, and in hares, and in all manner of game ; and I will bring with me my shooting-iron, and do thou also bring thy shooting-iron, and we will shoot exceedingly over all the land.' Now this he said tempt- ing me, and the thought thereof was pleasant unto my mind. Then rose up the good spirit called Conscience, that resideth in the chamber of the breast, and said unto me, ' Nay, but thou canst not do this thing, and go away from the work on which thou art employed.' But to this answered the little devil Inclination, that Heth along with Conscience in the chambers of the breast, and ruleth with him over the heart of man ; and he also began to deal subtlely with me, and said, ' Canst thou not also do thy work there, and see rocks which 324 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. it is necessary for thee to see, and acquire the know- ledge thereof?' But Conscience answered and said, * How many rocks, now, wilt thou see when the dogs and game are before thee, and thy shooting-iron in thy hand; and how great will he the knowledge of them that thou wilt gain ?' And the good spirit Conscience gained the mastery in this matter, and prevailed over the great devil and over the little devil, and set their counsels at naught. Then saith the great devil, 'If this seemeth not good in thy sight, lo, on Monday next I shall come here, even unto this land which is round about thee, and shall shoot therein. Wilt thou not take thy pleasure here for one day only, and show forth the goodness of thy shooting-iron and the skill of thy right hand?' And the little devil Inclination, being grieved that he had been worsted in the former contention, here has- tened to bestir himself; and he rose up quickly, and cried with a loud voice, ' Yea, this is good, and plea- sant, and proper, and moreover it is right; and it shall be done.' And he withstood Conscience boldly and with much clamour, and defied him to say anything against it, and refused to hear what he had to say ; and he overcame him, and flabbergasted him, and put him altogether to silence, so that he was both afraid and unable to speak. Then did I agree with the great devil, that it should be even as he had said; and he went on his way, having comforted himself with a vessel A MISCELLANEOUS POSTSCRIPT. 325 full of gin. And the little devil Inclination and the good spirit Conscience sat down together as of old, and reposed themselves in the chamber of the breast, and became friends even as before. During the writing the above true and maiTellous history — more marvellous perhaps to you on account of the appearance of any Conscience at all — the clouds and the rain have cleared away, and I am off to a little hit of work about two miles from here. Nine o'clock p.m. Having dined, smoked two pipes, drank three cups of tea, and a jug of water, I feel my- self equal to the task of finishing this terrific letter. The fact is, I've used up all my note-paper, one advant- age of which form is, that it compels you to study brevity, whereas in one of these large sheets, not only (to the sentences get most unmercifully spun out, but the pen is apt to get visited with a kind of delirium tre- mens, or morbid excitement to waiting, and running altogether away, refuses to stop till it comes to the end of the paper. Concerning a certain * phossilipherous indiwiddle,' as Forbes would call him, there is no great necessity for one in the Wolverhampton district — at all events, not immediately. I can set quarrymen and miners to work, who in that district are fully up to it. If, how- ever, I find it necessary, I can apply for one. My prin- 326 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. cipal work, I take it, during the winter will be the collection of pit sections and tracing the faults. There will he but few out-crops of beds, as the thick coal is the only one worked over the largest part of the space. Boundaries I already know very nearly. There will be, however, some close work of that sort required in ob- scure places on the edges of the field, and in its northern portion, of which absolutely nothing is known to any one, beyond the mere fact of there being coal-measures there. — Believe me, as ever, yours, J. Beete Jukes. Yspytty Efan, Pentre Voelas, Benbiyhshife, Oct. 1, 1847. Dear Kamsay, — You justly complain of my long letters ; but during the rain, being all alone, I was glad to do anything for an amusement. Wet weather is the cause of more writing, than fine of hard work. As Shakespeare says, ' Peace is a getter,' &c. I forget the greater part of what they were about, but will just notice one or two points in yours. I look on the term ' trap' as a generic one, loosely applicable to all such rocks as basalt, greenstone, porphyry, or lava, the whole of which, as well as syenite, granite, and all other igneous rocks, are apparently the same identical stnjf, differing only from the difierent conditions under which they have been placed. I should restrict the term 'lava' DEFINITION OF THE TERM ' LA VA: 327 to those masses which could he proved to have flowed under the air. Many thick lavas, if only the bottom part remained, would no doubt be called basalt or green- stone, and such I should continue to call and consider them, until they could he proved to have flowed in the open air. Thus in Van Dieman's Land I always in my notes spoke of a mass of cellular and scoriaceous igne- ous rock as * cellular trap,' until I found fossil trees in it in position of growth, and evidently enveloped in it while living. I then held that this cellular trap was proved to be lava. The surrounding greenstones I simply styled * greenstones,' leaving the question open to farther proof, whether they were part . f ilie real lavas, or an older exhibition of igneous rock, formed beneath the sea or beneath other rock, and therefore not lava. The same rock may be both basalt and lava, or porphyry and lava ; but if we apply the latter term to it, we, according to my notions, say that the rock on which it rests was dry land at the period — an assertion involving so wide and important a condition of things, as to require the most clear, strong, and undoubted evidence before we can admit it. For my part, I have yet seen nothing in North Wales which might not have been formed in the depths of the Atlantic, according to my own notions of these matters. You talk of ashes lapilli, big stones, dust, and volcanic mud, to which I answer, ' Proof, proof, proof !' Except the big stones, mm 328 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. which prove nothing, I do not know that I have seen one of these things. Mind, I say I do not know, neither do I know that I have not. They may have once been such things ; they certainly are not so now, therefore I M'ant proof that they were. Where is the proof that there was dry land in the space now the British Islands during the Silurian and anterior periods? If proof can he hrought, then I would at once admit (what I do not now deny) the possibility of the subaerial na- ture of these igneous products, though even then they must be most singularly metamorphosed from their former condition, if they resembled once the volcanic products of the present day, or, at least, any I have seen. Fossil terrestrial plants would go a good way. Take our traj)s — they rest on thick marine beds, they are covered by thick marine beds. Where is the proof that they were dry land in the interval, or where was the dry land from which they proceeded ? The traps of the Clee Hills n^re, I believe, lateral injections into a mass of coal .neasuros, the upper part of which is de- nude'^ n 'leaking of the traps of the Arenig as •B« L only spoke of an extreme case, which I , do s tempted to believe, not of what I really thoui^iit. You speak of layers of ash occurring between * unaltered slate,' as proof that the ash is not meta- morphosed from it-^ ginal state. There could be no better proof that it s. Surely if the ash were actual BEDS OF ASH AND SLATE. 329 porphyry, it could not bo more changetl from its original condition of a trappean detritus (as I suppose) than is the slato changed from its original condition of loose silt. I should use the metamorphic condition of the thin beds of slate to prove the necessarily metamor- phosed state of the other beds. Whether that meta- nioi"phosis was caused by heat, wholly or in part, is quite anotlier question, though I believe it most pro- bable that heat set the other agencies at work. Just beyond, you exactly express what I mean, when you say, ' good crystals may well occur in ash. Render this compact, and it becomes porphyry.' For ' ash' read 'igneous detritus;' for 'render compact' read 'meta- morphose ;' and the two propositions are identical. Apply heat and pressure to the loose Silurian sands and clays in Russia, you change them into these kind of things, as in tracing them to the Urals they are found to be changed, and as in tracing the clay and shale Silurians of Shropshire about Wenlock to the metamorphosed region of North Wales they are found to be changed. There is, I believe, no passage from CM. to N.R. in the Coalbrookdale coal-field proper, but in the extension of it to Bridgenorth and Bcwdley, also in the ^lanchester coal-field. In the north, the mag. lime, is as well marked as the great oolite in the south. You may walk along its escarpment overlooking the coal-fields from Nottingham to Sunderland, its beds being perfectly re- 1 33° LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. gular and most tranquilly deposited, often a fine-grained crystalline stuff like loaf-sugar to look at. Here's another long letter ! I've only the old ex- cuse, that I had not time to make it shorter. And now what do you mean, you yillain, you and that sallow spectre that now haunts you, by setting the whole survey at me ? ' I'll be revenged on the whole pack of ye.' Five r,ttacks have I had to parry and lunge back as well as I could. But what do you mean by keeping my letters ? All letters containing this sort of nonsense pass direct from my hands into the fire ; pray you do likewise, otherwise I shall have to send for a * Complete Letter- writer' to model my correspondence upon. I'll look out ^or some lecture-room specimens for you. I can give you also some good rocks, granite, &c., from Newfoundland when I go home, if you would like them, or rather you must come and choose them. Looking over your letter again. Your diagram would at once almost convince me that none of the igneous rock was lava. I should say the horizontal part was just as much an injected mass as the perpendicular, and that there might have been thousands of feet of stuff on it when it was formed and now denuded. In short, I don't believe there is any lava in Britain, but that all our igneous rocks were formed either beneath the sea or beneath other rock. There is no occasion for a term descriptive of submarine flows of igneous rock: they SUBMARINE IGNEOUS ROCKS, ZZ"^ TOuld be greenstones or basalts or porphyries. The detritus from such masses or beds, and the powdering and splintering and splitting into thin small flakes at the surface, which they would suffer when first ejected, would just form the ash-beds ; and as great currents must necessarily be caused under any depth of water, and even waves of translation of considerable magni- tude, we sliould have not only fine detritus, but large blocks spread over the surrounding sea, perhaps for many miles. In short, I think mere mineral character just as favourable to the submarine as to the subaerial origin of these things. I don't care which is proved, but I don't see why one should be assumed more than the other. Yspytty^ Oct. 5, 1847. Bear Kamsay, — I can now recur to note-paper. As to the trees in lava in Van Dieman's Land, it was the fact of their having been evidently charred through in ^itu, and reduced to white asheis before silicification, that first i;d me to believe they were enveloped in lava while lining. All this wab fully expressed in my paper as it stood at first, but I was forced to cut all out except the bald facts, and a great many even of these. I should never have thought of publishing such a meagre thing as it now is, had I not got savage and determined to try if 1 could get anything printed about Australia. I 332 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m am very sorry I did not put all my notes into my book instead of tryin<2j to make papers for the Geological. Not only were the trees charred, but the lava formed concentric coats round them upright; Strelecld traced the roots of one resting on one bed of lava, enveloped in another, &c. I feel that our trap controversy has had the proper effect of smashing the barriers with which a man's own ideas are apt to get surrounded, and allowing our notions to have a fair view and get acquainted with each other. As you say, the difference between us now is small. I thought j^ou stuck out for all the ash-beds being the result of volcanic matters blown from a siihacrial vent clean into the air, drifted by the winds, and falling in the sea. Wliile not deny- ing that some of them might be so derived, I stuck out against their all being so, or even the major part of those which I have been working. When you admit the probability of some of the ashes, or most of them, being of entirely subaqueous origin, you admit all I am arguing for. My notions of the origin of the ashes I have seen are these : 1. They are all of igneous origin, i.e. they are what Sedgwick calls * recomposed igneous products' — of this no one has any doubt (except perhaps Sharpe, who has notions of his own). 2. Beds of ' ash' can be traced to have an intimate connection with beds of trap, to come up to and join ORIGIN OF ASH-BEDS. ZZZ into them. Now I think volcanic forces were at work on the old sea-bottom, burrowing here and there about it, and every now and then squeezing out masses of melted rock, which would flow slowly along the bottom in various ways. Now we know very little of what would be the exact result, but I think we may say these masses would be irregular in shape, rather uniform in litliological constitution, which would dififer both from similar subaerial masses and from the same masses injected into rocks. They would hold the middle place between the two ; they would have more pressure than the subaerial, but cool more rapidly than the injected [ceteris paribus). Suppose a mass of liquid feldspathic rock issuing from a vent in a sea-bottom. When it came in contact with the water, it must surely be cooled rapidly and the water heated rapidly. Its surface, being so rapidly cooled (instantaneously we may say), would lie split and shivered, not only into small fragments, but into actual powder. It would be, as it were, wea- thered at once, and to a considerable depth too. Then the water being rapidly heated, almost formed into Steam, in spite of the pressure would ascend (and ac- tually expand into steam as it neared the surface), and currents would be formed of a force far exceeding any we have in tide-ways or surface-currents. Great force, however, would not be wanted, since they would have "lily shattered and powdered materials to act upon, 1 ^^^^^Bi' ■ill .„..;. 334 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. though much of these materials might be carried up by the ascending currents, and thus get exposed lo wider acting influences, and spread over much of the sea- bottom. In this way I should conceive that any small submarine vent must have its ejected trap almost im- mediately converted into what we call ash ; except just its nucleus, which, having been better protected., wouiu be still trap, but with every gradation between the two things. In my notes on the Bala beds, I have described the ash -beds as having three varieties: 1, the flaky; 2, the brecciated ; 3, the crystalline. Now the occur- rence and the mingling of these things would all be caused by the process supposed above. In some of the brecciated ashes, some of the angular fragments have crystals of feldspar in them, and are true splinters of trap. The flaky ashes were not originally formed so— the flakes Vie at right-angles or ohlique to the beds, like cleavage ; it is a cleavage, or, as Darwin would call it, a foliation, like that of mica slate, afi'ecting a peculiarly fine-grained originally powdery material, but, together with the foliation, thin plates, strings, and finely-crys- taline bits of minerals have formed, in the same direc- tion as the flakes. Now it was this kind of detritus that I alluded to as the origin of the ashes, not ordinary wasting of a sea-cliflf, or of any land, but a detritus formed wholly under the sea, and at any depth (perhaps VARIETY OF ASH-BEDS. 335 the deeper the sea the more detrital matter, the fiercer the currents, and the greater the bobbery altogether ; hut that's no matter). Whatever temperature we sup- pose the deep sea to have, there must be a vast difier- ence between it and melted rock ; and if the two are lirought suddenly into contact, there must be a mutual action. Shove a bar of hot iron into cold water, you mile it ; do the same with a trap-bed, and you'll scale it, and the scales are the ash-beds. Them's my notions, sir. I never said the North -Welsh slate rocks were ordinary detrital matter metamorphosed into trap ; I was always thinking of this kind of action. I am not up to the Clee Hills, and was only thinking of Staffordshire, and supposed it to be the same. As to * lava,' the term always used to be restricteJ to melted rock flowing in the open air. I was protesting against an innovation, and thinking of other friends of mine, more than you while attacking your use of it. One can't explain every- thing in letters, and I am afraid I often pitch into one man, while I am fancying him another that I can't get iit. Those confounded artists won't go away from Bettws- y-Coed, and I'm almost reduced to a standstill, as I could do in one day from there, what will take me a ^eek from here. Gibbs can't find a place at all there ; every house is crammed full of amateurs of scenery and salmon-fishing. I sha'n't shoot any more ; the keeper 'lodged me yesterday. Since he has found I can shoot, 336 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. lie won't go into the best ground with me, but on some pretence or other walks away over hills and banks * where the partridges donH grow.' The Holyhead mail stops to-day, and Telford's great road is abandoned to desolation, save when at times some solitary car, with stone-collecting cove or tourist fraught, jogs slowly o'er its ] ow grass-covered space, and wakes the pikeman to a brief delight, &c. I don't very clearly know how I am to get out of this country. I'd send my baggage by carrier, and walk by Denbigh and Mold, only it would be expensive, and all out of my own pocket. I must car it either to Conway or Corwen. I heard from Selwyn to-day. It appears that fossils descend and traps come up, in the series about Capel Curig; more- over Barmouth sandstones come up, as I have sand- stones not very unlike those of Barmouth immediately beneath the Bala limestone. With this sort of riggisli- ness Snowdonia will puzzle us. — Yours ever, • J. Beete Jukes. Yspytty, Oct. 8, 1847. Dear Ramsay, — Just got yours of the 4th, and as it rains virulently, and I'm tired of copying maps, 111 answer it. My ideas of metamorphism are certainly vague, but I believe they are more appropriate on that account, as it is a vague thing. In the widest sense oi ME TAMORPHISM. 337 the word, not only all rocks, but all matter is met mor- pliic, since 'nothing is but has been something else' (Old Play). In its technical geological sense, however, I'll take your definition of it — * a metamorphic rock is a rock greatly altered from what it was when first con- solidated.' Now that certainly includes all slates, be- cause when first consolidated they must have been shales like coal-shales or lias. Into my notion of meta- morphism, however, .there always enters the idea of a Avide-spread and general action. I should hardly call a mere baked rock by the side of a trap-dyke metamor- phic. For instance, coal baked by trap into coke could hardly be called metamorphic, except by the straining of the term. A truly metamorphic rock can only occur in a region where the action, whatever it was, that pro- duced the metamorphism, has acted widely and pro- bably for a long time. Supposing heat to be at the bottom of it, which it probably is, no truly igneous rock may appear in that region at all. I suppose it to be a deep-seated cause, which has determined a certain amount of heat towards a particular region at or near the surface for a long time. That heat may not have literally melted any part of it, or if it has so afi'ected some portions that were very readily fusible, other and mtermediate portions, nearer perhaps to the source of heat, may not have been melted on account of their refractory character. The heat, or the cause of it, will 338 LETTERS OF J. ^EETE JUKES. have set other agencies at work, chemical, or mechan- ical, or magnetic, or what not. In some of the heds ii molecular action may have taken place, allowing a change in their particles, such as crystallisation, the formation of mineral veins, or the production of cleav- age. Each of these may he produced in parts suited to them, and not in other parts traversed hy the same agencies ; just as in a great mass of rocks all the fine- grained heds are affected by cleavnge, and not the coarse ones. I have no doubt these Silurian slates were once just the same stuff as the soft clayey shales of the S.E. of Shropshire. I believe, then, that these in North Wales are all metamorphic. Had the oolites of Somerset and Gloucester, or any other formation, been here at the time the metamorphism took place, they would now be lithologically just what we see here, except the true traps and igneous rocks, of course. I mean they would have been slates, and flagstones, anti gritstones, and crystalline limestones, all more or less affected by cleavage. I think this general metamorphic action took place in parts of Britain at a time anterior to the mountain limestone. It has taken place subse- quently in other parts of the world, as since the oolitic period, in a part of the Alps ; since the cretaceous, in the northern Andes. It is probable, perhaps, that the same amount of metamorphic action on any particular small piece of rock can be produced, either by an m- METAMORPHIC ACTION. 339 tense heat in a short time, or by a very small elevation of temperature when very long continued and widely spread. There will of course be every gradation from an intense and long-continued action, that would reduce any rock into granite, to one so slight that its results are inappreciable. It will therefore often be difficult to decide whether any rock has been subjected to this action or not ; but we may almost assume a piiori, that in a metamorphosed region every fragment of rock of the requisite age has been subjected to this action. I should therefore say that every true slate-rock, every formation any part of which is affected by 'cleavage,' must have been more or less affected by this metamor- phism ; and that, as we find its eifects in the cleavage of one kind of rocks, we may look for its effects in some other change that has taken place in other kinds of rock, forming part of the formation. In these ash-beds, for instance, the transverse flaky structure, the segregation of plates of semi-crystalline minerals, parallel to the flakes and transverse to the beds, are probably the result of metamorphic action. It is possible that even the parts that are now compact trap with disseminated crystals may be metamorphic, but that is an extreme supposition. If we admitted that, we might suppose the stratified traps of the Arenig also metamorphic ; but that would by no means invalidate iheiv previous liineoiis origin {i.e. a submarine detritus of igneous 340 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. rock), and the metamorphic agent may have traversed the subjacent and superjacent slate-beds without doing more than sealing up their * lamination,' and giving them their cleavage. These, recollect, are speculations to give you my notions of what metamorphism could do. Pray don't suppose, however, I lay claim to these notions for my own ; I believe I have got them from Sedgwick, and Lyell, and Darwin, and Phillips, &c., and I have not yet seen anything published to super- sede them. I do not see either that your ideas of meta- morphism can be very different. I should never dream of giving a different colour to a rock on account of its metamorphic character, though in extreme cases some mark might be advantageous — I mean those extremes when it is difficult to say whether the rock was not originally an igneous one. Well, I'm tired of writing; what shall I do next ? — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. PenmaeJmo, Oct. 15, 1S47. My pear Ramsay, — This fine weather induced me to come suddenly over here, where I have taken up quarters in a small room (bedroom and parlour and all) leading out of a small kitchen of a small public. I have to depend on passing strangers to explain to the people what I want, though I get on pretty well with signs WINTER WORK— THE 'QUARTERLY: 341 and odd words. I return to Yspytty to-night, and on Tuesday next go to Bettws for a fortnight, by which time I shall have completed all my present lines. It so happens that the last time I saw Sehvyn, we were mutually wishing that you would send us both into Staffordshire together. I have not the least wish to play solo, and should gladly see the whole strength of the survey concentrated on that district. The more the merrier. I have written to Selwyn to ask him to join me at Bettws. It would be expedient we should have a little work together here, as my Bala beds apparently lose the limestone, the ashes pass into traps, more traps come in, and in fact our lines coalesce just about Bettws. Since I wrote to you, I have been quartered in the Quarterly, which snubs and pooh-poohs me a good deal, and wishes Captain B. had written the book, and wants to hear more oiiha fortemque Gyan fortemque Cloan- thun that trod the deck ; to which I might answer, that we had no such gentleman on board at all. The faults they find are no doubt the true ones — such as want of the history of the voyage and of anecdote, and all that ; I'Ut I thought I had explained the reason. . . . Let us come back to our mutton (ah, I wish I could!). I think the notion of taking coal-fields for winter work, for those who are engaged among moun- tains in the summer, an excellent one generally. We 342 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ought to have a good body on the survey, if not the whole of it, well up to coal - measure work in all its bearing and details. It is our most legitimate prac- tical operation. Besides, the winter is almost thrown away among mountains, and a man works all the bet- ter for having had a little change; and he also works all the better before the change comes, in order to finish up to a certain mark before he starts. Penn Fields, Wolverhampton, Nov. 4, 1B47. "We arrived here yesterday, after a series of adven- tures, and mishaps, and rows. We started in a car and a cart (the latter for luggage) to Conway. At Conway they told us the mail, being the only coach, was always full, and absolutely declined to take luggage beyond a carpet-bag or so. We hesitated what to do: whether to go back to Bangor, and then by sea next day to Liverpool, or to push on as well as we could. The former mode would be much the most expensive for ourselves, and the latter for the survey, and we de- cided the survey ought to stand it. Vfe accordingly started for Chester in an open break sort of a thing with two horses, and got to Abergele. There we fell in with a surly fellow of an innkeeper, who refused to forward us and baggage with fewer than four horses. FROM WALES TO WOLVERHAMPTON. 343 We had no end of a row with him, and at last he agreed to send us, in an old baroucko with a pair, seven miles to St. Asaph. In the scrimmage we left a lot of lug- gage (my desk, &c.) in the boot of the break ; at all events, it was non est when we got to St. Asaph. Here the man was civil, and helped to pack our baggage in a chaise ; but he also insisted on four horses, and at last we were compelled to take four, for the first six miles up iho escarpment of the mountain limestone. Fancy two poor geological surveyors with four posters ! Ar- rived at Holywell, we had an awful bother with the receipts, which they at first refused to sign, and then insisted on filling up, and spoilt them. It was a pitch- tlark night, and we had hardly gone a mile when we found the driver so drunk he could hardly sit on the box. Ya ! hip ! He flogged away full gallop, passing houses, donkey-carts, coal-pits, fires, and dark hollows, clown to a ferry over the Dee. We did not know a step of the road, or I'd have had him off his box and driven myself; but I knew that among lots of roads only one took to the ferry. However, at last we reposed our- selves in the White Lion, about ten at night, and came on here the next day. We have reduced our receipts to about one shilling a mile apiece, and hope they will be allowed. We arrived here with only a few shillings between us. North Wales is now just in the transition between coaches and railways, and the innkeepers all 344 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. N grasping at Dnything they can get. I hope to recover our baggage, especially my desk and carpet-bag, iu the latter of which was seven or eight pounds' worth of plate. How I hate quill-pens ! I can neither write noi spell with them. I hope you will contrive to come and see us here. Fenn Fields, Wolverhampton, Nov. 11, 1847. . . . Three fine days have enabled us to spiflicatc this end of the Silurian ridge, and get boundaries of Y.K. and CM. for two or three miles. At last heard from Hooker, just before he sailed. Blackwood and Examiner are very civil to me,* Bee. 27. Percy's coal-pit, that Selwyn and I went down, is a most interesting place — lots of trap veins traversing coal. The coal is often but littls altered, even close to the trap. I have got a lump for the Mu- seum, including some of both. Then there was a fault most clearly shown, like a diagram, and that fault was coincident with the extension of the trap, i. e. beyond it the coal was undisturbed by trap. On the trap side of the fault, the coal changed from ten yards thick to four yards, with another wild coal twenty yards above it. 1 wish you had gone down with us. But I iiiust go again, and get more minute uetailu. ... I tind one of the railways I wrote about in the spring, isjimslml * In reviewing the Voyage of the Fly. SURVEY ENGAGEMENTS. 345 without Ibbetson's seeing it, viz. the South Stafford- shire Junction. I'll go and look at it. I must ride over that country to pick up stray facts of which I have heard. — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. Penn Fields, Wolverhampton, Feh. 15, 1848. My dear Ramsay, — . . . I made a grand haul yes- terday in a lithographed mining plan of a part of the coal-field, and r. capital lot of sections to be depended on. lam overwhelmed with affairs. I have survey en- gagements in all directions : in the coal-field to go and look at points, or coax bits of information out of difi'er- ent people. I have two lectures to deliver in Birming- ham 01] the two next Mondays. Hero's a letter come from Herr Otto Roettig, and I suppose he's following it; and down comes Captain Ibbetson last night, and wants to whirl me off into North Staffordshire. You must have had a pleasant party at Darwin's. I should have liked much to have made one. Has Selwyn sent ilowu his paper and maps ? That is another breaker ahead, right in my track, which every now and then comes into ray head, and carries me away from coral- reefs, Australians, pit-sections, Polynesians, outcrops, pretty girls, faults, money-matters, coal-measures, Ger- Qian geologists, dinner-parties, and the new red sand- 346 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. stone boundary. — Believe me, when I lin ve time to think of you, ever your true friend, J. Beete Jukes. Feb. 18, 1848. I have just returned from North Staffordshire, where I have been with Ibbetson. It has cost me a horrid lot of tin, and I forgot to take any receipts with me. However, I have made out the two points I wanted. First, there's a fresh-water limestone, with microcon- chus, and only one little bed of coal over it, and a known section of 1000 yards of CM. below it. There are other measures and coals lower down in the north of the district, passing down into the millstone grit. I hold this fresh-water limestone to be the ac tual top of the carboniferous series, and the North Staifordshire coal- field to be the only one in Britain where the whole series of CM. can be proved to exist. I'll draw out the case more at length in future. Secondly, the boun- dary fault is, I think, an actual big downthrow, subse- quent to the deposi. ^n of the new red, because there are a series of faults on both sides of it, both iu CM. and in Y.R., all throwing down in the same direction. What do you mean by my having any objection to your reading my share of our paper ? I should consider it necessary that you read and approve the whole before it is sent in. I shall have no time to tackle it till Tues- PAPERS ON NORTH WALES. 347 tlay next, when I will squeeze it into about three sheets of letter-paper ; so tell Selwyn to look out for his being mortally transmogrified. Marcli 3, 1848. Writing to Sedgwick the other day, I told him that Selwyn and I were going to read a paper on North "Wales, and that I was very glad of it, as relieving me from all restraint in writing to him. In his reply, he says that I may well differ in details from him, as he ouly made one or two traverses, &c., and had no time to follow the beds longitudinally and connect the sec- tions. ' But,' he says, * I did put North Wales into good approximate order, and ought long since to have published the details. That ugly abstract of papers (published in the Journal about three years ago) was (lojje by Warburton, who would not even let me see the proof-sheets, and, strange to tell, I have not read it over since it was printed.' ' The last short paper was by myself; but rheumatism, gout, &c. &c. ; so that I have done nothing hardly in the writing way for some years.' Xow to this letter I have made the reply enclosed ; but so fearful ara I of overstepping discretion in this mat- ter (how I do hate all concealment!), that I would be obliged if you would look it over ; and if you think it too open, put it in the fire, and tell me so. The first sentence refers to matters not geological ; all the rest 348 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. might be advertised in the Times as far as I am con- cerned. What fun this is in France ! Is it thought there will be any fighting, in which we shall have a part ? If so, will a geological corps be of any service, think you ? I'll make one with all my heart. Dudley, March 8, 1848. .... There does not appear to be any chance of war by the papers ; indeed, I suppose nobody but the French would dare to attack us, and I should be sorry to fight with them now. Vive la Repuhlique / . . . I hope with all my soul the Italians of the north will kick those beggars of Austrians over the wall of the Alps, into the depths of the Black Forest. Stirring times ; but we Englishmen seem to have done all our fighting, and can't afford to pay for any more diversion that way. Dudley, March 17. I have had some very good days' work here over a most complicated bit of ground, which, by the help of a brick of an ironmaster, I have got pretty well disen- tangled. It is chokeful of faults, varying from ten yards to one hundred. By the way, the lower coals here are almost gone, the beds thin out, and although the place of the coal can sometimes be found by a * slum' DUDLEY COAL-BEDS AND TRAP. 349 or a * smut,' there are none of them workable. Now should I mark the outcrop of them ? If they never got thicker, I should take no notice of them, as a matter of course. There are also here some trappean sandstones, rouuded grains of basaltic stuff, but these contain nod- ules of a calcareous ash in some places. There is also a kind of trappean breccia. They are thin, irregular, aud bothering ; must I mark 'em in, think you ? I certainly think Selwyn can't do better than come down here. Dudley, March 19. I shall look to to-morrow fortnight, April 3, as my timo for starting hence. I should like a day at home io pack up and arrange, and then, hey for the Berwyns! It is, however, a terra incognita to me, so please to send maps and information. Perhaps, however, Aveline will be there by that time, so that I cai; join him. I'll work hard to knock off the Bala limestone and ash-beds that make their appearance therein ; but I take it, if they are complete up to the valley of the Dee this sum- mer, it will be as much as they will, for I anticipate difficulties as we go north, big faults, &c. However, mm verrons. ... In the afternoon of yesterday I knocked off three miles of trap boundary along the Ivowley Hills. I have been reading Arnold's History of 35° LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Rome during meal and smoking times ; an admirable book, and a great pity he died before he finished it. Llanwddyn, April 26, 1848, Dear Ramsay, — We've made out this corner by the help of the Bala ash -bed, which I caught by the tail one day. It is rather queerious, and I'll send it to you on a bit of tracing-paper. There's an anticlinal line, or rather what I expect Darwin means by an uniclinal line. Next we want to know whether it would be fair to charge the survey with our postman. There is no post-office within eight miles, nor will there be at Llan- gynnog. We send a boy three times a week, and he'll charge a shilling or eighteenpence a day, say four or five shillings a week. Without this, even official letters might not reach us for a week or two. . . . You will see in the tracing that the Bala ash-bed coming down from the north, broken by a few small faults, gets suddenly affected by a very sharp anticlinal, that makes it strike about S.W. In that direction it cannot be traced far, and probably is altogether concealed by upper beds. But towards the N.E. it runs on, gets more and more perpendicular, till at last it is absolutely so, and then bent over so as to dip the wrong way, and all the supe- rior beds, as also the Caradoc and Wenlock shale, dip at it. .affmL^....^-^ BALA LIMESTONE— LLANRHAI ADR. 351 Llanrhaiadr, June 13, 1848. Where are you ? I conclude the rain or the pretty girls detained you at Tyn-y-Groes. I have had one clay here, and two miles N. of this place have found the Bala Hmestone ! ' Not that the tiling is either rich or rare ; One wonders how the devil it got there.' Moreover it is two or three hundred feet thick ; fossils the same as Bala, but with large trilobites. According to the dip of the traps and ashes a little W. of this spot, the lower slates (base of the trappean series) should have come out here, and, lo, the Bala lime- stone ! I expect Father Adam must be right in his big N. and S. fault. I had two hard days before leaving Llangynnog at Aveline's sprawl of trap to N.E. of that place. I could make nothing of it at all ; it is full of lieds of slate, which seem sometimes to cross it, but at others, end abruptly against trap both ways, and some run altogether across the strike of the others. I could iorm no hypothesis to fit the things at all. It seemed as if the trap lay horizontally on some tilted slate, but sent many beds for short distances conformably into the slates, while some slates were caught in among traps, but I could never see any bedding either in slate or tiap. I gave it up at last, and mean to find a tract where they lie undisturbedly, and I can study the beg- gars. Evidently this is not a district to be done in a mM' i 352 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. hurry, so you must e'en have patience. ... I have pretty tolerable quarters here, so far as house and people go, but the customers are the noisiest, drunkenest set of rascals I ever met. After keeping quiet for two days, I could stand it no longer, hut took command of the house, went into the kitchen, and threatened 'em all with the constable, the lock-up, and the stocks, and astonished them not a little. To-day I caused a farmer of the neighbourhood, and a cooper who boasted of being * a rich man,' to be ejected vi et armis into the street. There is neither constable nor magistrate, and the whole set seem to me a drunken lot of blackguards. If the rain keep me in the house much, I'll swear myself in ' special,' and, by heaven ! two or three of the biggest of them shall have a night in the lock-up. I see I could do it ; for the big cooper's look of surprise, and alarm, and deprecation, when he found my hand on his shoul- der, and himself advancing to the door this afternoon, almost vanquished my wrath, which had boiled over. I mean to speak to parson Williams about it, however, and if necessary, have a police-officer. Llangedwyn, July 28, 1848. Dear Kamsay, — Fate is conspiring against me. After so much wet weather and enforced idleness, we have got a fine gleam, and I am laid up with a bad CARADOC AND MEIFOD BEDS. 353 cold, &c., and can't take advantage of it. Had we a summer like last year's, we should long ago have finished all this country, and been working from Llangollen. As it is, I hope to he moving there in about a fortnight. Since I wrote, we have rather had reason to alter our notions as to the ending of the Caradoc in the locality you mention, and to think it may end at a fault ; but still it does not greatly alter my conclusions. The country is obscure. We thought (both Aveline and my- self independently) that the Caradocian, coming up from the south, passed into the Meifod beds gradually, by the thinning out and disappearance of the coarse sand- stones, and their change into fine grained sandstone, shales, and flagstones. The Meifod-bed fossils, how- ever, are decided not to be Caradoc ; therefore, 1st, the Caradocian do not pass into the Meifod beds, or 2dly, the Caradocian, if passing into the Meifod beds, are not Caradoc. We want, therefore, some direct and independent endence either, 1st, that the Caradocian are Caradoc, or 2dly, that they pass into the Meifod beds. Is there any evidence of the first to be got anywhere ? If not, had we not better get some evidence, if possible, of the latter? Now for that purpose I was thinking, that when Forbes comes down, Aveline and I had better join him at Meifod and Llanfyllen for a few days, show him the fossils, &c., and look together with him at the lime- AA 354 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. stones of Mathyrafal, &c., wliich Sedgwick puts into his sections, but which I have not seen, nor is any marked in the map. ... I suppose, after all, the only way fairly to work it out is, to disentangle the Meifod group of beds, and endeavour to trace their calcareous bauds. Not a very attractive job, and it opens the Welchpool sheet again. I'll keep you informed of our movements, of which I am rather uncertain. We must walk over to Llangollen to engage rooms there, as, being a tourist place, there may be some difficulty ; and how gladly I shall get into lodgings again, out of these horrid pub- lics, Heaven only knows ! We frightened these people here yesterday morning, and to-day they got us breakfast by a quarter-past eight, which they consider a triumpli of early rising. Llangollen, Aug. 26. Yours of the 24tli just received. Eains like blazes. Forbes is to be married next Thursday, and comes here the week after. I give you two sections. I expect the ash will be the Upper Bala ash-bed ; but whether the sandy calcareous beds below the flagstone are the hase of the flagstones, the top of the Bala, or the representa- tion of the Caradoc, we can't yet say from the survey, and it is one of the questions we want Forbes to solve. . . . We have had altogether two days' work this Aveek. WEARINESS OF INACTION. 355 What are we to do ? Our work now lies very far, and over some great hills. I have already got a cold from Thursday's work, so that I fear, if I were to keep at it, I should merely lay myself up when the fine weather does come ; and yet it is downright intolerable to be imprisoned here. If one had books or society, one would not perhaps complain ; but in this social and intellectual desert, it seems a sheer waste of existence. Heigho ! Forbes is a lucky dog ! Did you hear any- thing of Father Adam at Swansea ? I have not heard from him for a long time, and can't conceive where he can have got to. I have a great mind to take a day- ticket to Bangor and spend to-morrow with you ; but then cash is running low. Old Gov. seems the happiest of all the three, as he lies curled up like a nautilus on the hearth - rug. Well, there's half an hour spent, so farewell. Llangollen, Sept. 3. Your of the 31st followed me to Llansaintfraid-Glyn- Ceiriog, where Talbot and I stayed three days to work tbe ash-beds. Why, you are flying into the uttermost parts of the earth ! However, I conclude the post will follow you. We are happy to hear that no sections are to be run this year, as now we can finish the Oswestry, hala, and Llangollen, and perhaps the Corwen, sheets comfortably before going into winter quarters. Once ^^. #* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 l^llliM 12.5 ;; IIIIIM |||||Z2 .r „* iii|2£ m U lllll 1 6 %.% ,/^^'^^ ^ /!^ (? / Photographic Sciences Corporation ^N^ iV :\ \ "^^ ^^ ^ O rv '^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 356 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. establish a boundary between the flagstones and Bah beds, and the whole of this district is as plain as an oolitic or chalk and greensand one. I was glad to hear that you have had calcareous sandstone at the bottom of the Wenlock in your country, as I think it will prove to be so here. I am inclined to suspect, moreover, tbat the upper limestone of Glyn will not be so much a Caradoc as a lower Wenlock limestone. The difference is not much, to be sure, and it is a trifling thiiij^ u itself; but it looks like the flags got sandy and calcLi reous. We arc waiting for Forbes tr settle the matter. He will be down, I believe, at the end of the week. I expect Mr. and Mrs. Browne, and perhaps my cousin S., to-morrow to stay a few days. I mean to take them up some of the hills, whence we see Snowdon and Liver- pool, the Great Orme's Head and the Wrekin. Talbot and I have just sported two plaids ; but we want you to give us a lesson in putting them on. I got into nearly an inextricable fold in one this morning. I was like Laocoon and the *sarpints.' You sinner! if you get marrird in Scotland, I'll advertise for a wife, or have a placard, * Good husband for sale or hire,' pasted on my back when I walk out. Are we to have the new numbers of the ' Memoirs' presented to us ? I have get a copy down, on condition I pay for it if not given. It is i pity it was not divided into three parts, so as to detach Hooker's and Forbeo THE BERWYNS AND GREENSTONES. 357 papers. When you come back, halt at Chester and run over here. It is only one hour and a half, and we'll have a consult. — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. Llandrillo Corwen, Oct. 22, 1848. My deab Ramsay, — Don't start at the size of the paper, but I fear this letter may be a long one. I was detained on the east side of the Berwyns about Llanar- mon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog till last Wednesday morning, when I had only a bed of greenstone to trace up Cwm Llawenog towards here. As the snow was, however, at least a foot deep on the hill-sides, this was impossible, and I walked over the Berwyns in the face of as keen a wind and as pelting a snow as I ever contended with. The two next days were fine ; but I could do nothing till the snow had run off the hills, which it had not completely done even yesterday. I accordingly went on Thursday to Bala, and back on Friday, taking a look at the Caradoc and the big fault by the way. I quite concur in Aveline's recent alterations of that part, which do not affect the general qu'^stion, but make it more ship-shape than it was before. Yesterday I was on the hills, and I have traced the lower ash of the Ceiriog, which in that direction becomes syenite, into a great mass of greenstone on this side. This greenstone ill 358 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. is at the base precisely like the traps in the South Staffordshire coal-field — a regular melted rock, with very large and perfect crystals of hornblende and feldspar. It is somewhere about 300 feet tytick at least, and it has over it another 100 feet of greenstone ash (stop a bit !), which is traceable thence round the hill into the regular common ash, that runs in a straight line across the Ceiriog and up to the mountain limestone without a single break, except where peat-bogs conceal every- thing from sight. Below this comes a second band of greenstone and greenstone ash, which is likewise trace- able just parallel to the other over the crest of the Berwyns and across the Ceiriog, and for about two miles farther, when it enters a peat-bog, and I suppose is drowned and smothered, for it never comes out again. Greenstone Ash. — The ashes associated with the greenstones are in every case peculiar, and distinct from those which pass into feldspathic trap or porphyry, or the common ashes, before they approach or pasi,^ into green- stone, first change into greenstone ash. This was the case over at Penmachno, and south of Bettws-y-Coed; but Selwyn did not agree with me that his greenstones were on the same horizon as my ashes. I am now con- vinced of it, because the lower ash of the Ceii'iog passes into exactly the same stuff as the lower ash of Pen- machno, and then into greenstone. We can trace it here unbroken; but the disturbed country about Pen- GREAT FAULT— STRIKE OF ROCKS. 359 machno did not allow of our doing that I should like to know whether you or Selwyn have observed any peculiarity in the ashes associated with your green- stones. Anything that will throw light on the ash ques- tion is, I think, most important. We shall have a grand fight some day with the rest of the geological world about it, as it is yet peculiar to the survey, no one else knowing anything about it. What do you think of challenging tliem at the next meeting of the Association at Birmingham with a paper, diagrams, and a lot of specimens ? I'll back you like a brick. Here goes for another subject. The great fault that smashes through the mountain limestone north of Llangollen is the same that passes by Corwen and Bala; unity of direction, sameness of throwdown to N.W., and similarity of action, all prove it — viz. that it is not a clean cut, but scatters pieces of the rock here and there along its course by many cross faults branching in all directions, &c. Its course is N.E. by E., and S.W. by W., say 55° by prism, comp. This is the exact bearing of the axis of the great Merioneth anticlinal on one side and of the series of anticlinals and syncliiials in the Meifod and Welchpool countries on the other. Your series in Caernarvonshire, I think, do not vary more than 10° from it, being about 45°, or N.E. and S.W., which is certainly that of those about Penmachno, &c. It is most probable, then, that the big fault and 360 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. li the production of the anticlinals, &c, (in other words, the general strike of the country affected by them) was contemporaneous. But the big fault was posterior to the coal formation, therefore the forces which gave the present strike to much of the country acted after the coai formation (Q.E.D.). All along the escarpment of the mountain limestone, however, and generally over the county of Denbigh^ we find all the Silurian rocks strik- ing E. and W. North of Llangollen the flags are perpen- dicular, and run E. and "W. bang up to the O.K.S.* and mountain limestone, while the mountain limestone rests undisturbedly on the edges of these beds, dipping gently to the E. It is clear, therefore, that before the de- position of the mountain limestone, the strike of the rocks was E. and W. ; and it is probable that this was their general strike over a wide district at that time. If this were the case, the north flank of the Berwyns and the country north of Cerig-y-Druidion, &c. are the remains of an old system of architecture, as it were, left undis- turbed from a date anterior to the carboniferous period, the last vestiges perhaps of mountain chains that ran east and west through North Wales, degraded and de- stroyed partly during the O.R.S. period perhaps, and which ^.vere finally broken up and obliterated after the coal period by being traversed by forces that had a north- east and south-west direction, and gave the rocks of a * Old Red Sandstone. JUNCTION OF WENLOCKS AND BALA. 361 great part of the country their present strike. The rea- son why the old strike should be left near the great fault may be perhaps that it was a fault, an actual crack rather than a bend, and that it consequently did not raise a ridge of hills over its course, but merely dropped the rocks down on one side, or lifted them bodily on the other. I should like to know whether there are in Europe any vestiges of an east and west strike among Silurians or other rocks that have probably not been disturbed during or since the carboniferous period. That the centre of England was occupied by an east and west ridge of some sort, either under or above water, is shown by all the Midland coal-fields reposing on old rocks without much or any O.R.S. or mountain Hmestone, and that the old rocks were disturbed before the carboniferous period. It must have run nearly east and west, because the mountain limestone sea deepened both north and south. The present strike of these old rocks won't show what was their strike before the coal because it may have been re-arranged — indeed, must have been — by the post-carboniferous forces. I'm hf^lf inclined to fire off a little paper on this point at the Geological this year. You will perhaps have heard from Aveline that he has got a little thin bit of Caradoc about Corwen, dipping north-west and north, and that it ends to the eastward, thinning out, and letting the Wenlocks and Bdla come together. This seems to me to be im- 362 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. portant, and to throw light on the Llanfyllin country, and the other places to the southward, where the Cara- doc ends so queerly. I now begin to L almost certain that the Meifod beds are the true and regular Bala beds under a different form, and to think it absolutely essen- tial that their calcareous bands should be traced, or at least some of them, and that I should go and look at the limestones of Mathyrafal. If one of these assumed the true Bala character, it would settle the question. Had I not better go there next year ? And indeed, if I had a look at all the rocks beloY/ the Wenlocks in the "Welchpool sheet, I think it would be a good dodge. I could get a horse at Welchpool perhaps, and do it in three days or a week. I should then have seen all the beds that either do or could represent the Bala beds near the parallel of Bala ; and I think it is important that the same group should be seen by the same pair of eyes throughout its extension, if possible. Well, I fear you will begin to look on me as a second T — . The fact is, it rains like fury, and my Athenmm has never arrived, hinc illce lacrymce. However, I have now poured over you all my bottled-up information, speculation, and argumentation. I don't know where this will find you, as Talbot tells me you are scampering off with Sir Henry some- where. However, I direct to Llanberris. I have four or five fine days' work here before I can join Talbot. FORCES OF ELEVATION. 363 We were thinking then of going, first to Pentre Foelas and polishing -ofi" that corner, and then coming back along the Caradoc to the mountain-limestone patches south of Ruthin. However, we'll keep you advised. the weather, the weather ! Llandrillo, Oct. 27, 1848. My dear Ramsay, — You rather miss the point of one of the subjects of my last letter. It was not the denudation I was thinking of, and have no wish to in- terfere with you on that subject. My notion was, that, mountain chains or not, the old strike of the Silurians was east and west ; that, either under water or above, there were elevations running east and west through central England ; and that this east and west strike had been obliterated or interfered with, by forces producing a north-east or south-west strike after the carboniferous time. No doubt denudation accompanied, as a matter of course ; but what I was thinking of was the direc- tion of the forces of elevation. It would be very curious and quite new, if we could prove the same dis- trict to have been acted on by forces having difiorent directions at different times. A priori, one would sup- pose that whatever elevating force acted on a country would almost necessarily act along the old lines of dis- location, &c., and that therefore, whatever change of 3^4 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. elevation, depression, denudation, &c. might take place, the strike of a district must always remain the same, when once it had a strongly-marked strike impressed on it. Now if North Wales or any district once had a decided strike in one direction, and became acted ou by forces having a diflferent direction, it would be the very thing to produce all the fractures and undulations we find. Is it possible that if a country has an east and west strike, and is acted on by forces that would alone produce a north and south strike, the resulting strike will be a north-east and south-west, or a nortli- west and south-east, according to circumstances? If so, the forces acting on the carboniferous rocks of tlie north of England (producing the Pennine chain), and giving it a north and south strike, may have been at the same time acting on North Wales, but, in conse- quence of its previous east and west strike, ho,ve given it a north-east and south-west one. We should then have the curious circumstance of the same force at the same time producing ela/ations not 'parallel to each other. My obliteration, then, of mountain chains, you see, does not depend on denudation simply or even pri- marily, but on a new set of elevations and depressions. All the rocks may be there, or nearly so, but in a new arrangement ; all the materials, but a new set of build- ings. For instance, suppose a ridge connecting the Berwyns and Snowdon (neither of them, perhaps, so DISENTANGLEMENT. 365 high as at present), with the Bala beds all over it, and the Caradoc and Wenlock flanking it, broken up by fresh forces, and the traps poked through, &c. into the form we now have them, denuaution either contempo- raneous or subsequent, or both. I should like to hear a discussion on the subject at the Geological. That was ray notion. Let us show them there are some questions of more importance and of a higher generality than dis- puted points ofgreensand and tertiary clays. I should like to hear the question of the forces affecting the structure of the crust of the globe more frequently brought into play. The greenstone ash here, I recollect Aveline said, you called * snake ' somewhere down in Kadnorshire. ... If you could manage to join us at Pentre Foelas when Selwyn goes to Bettws-y-Coed, it would be splen- did. We could have a grand consult and a day or two together in a very knotty district. I should particularly like to look at that country with you, as both Caradoc and ashes and traps are most curious. Corwen, Nov. 1, 1848. I at length got here last night, coming in a car after dark, having twice crossed the Berwyns during the day. Those bothers are done, I'm happy to say. I think I have got the heart of their mystery in two whacking faults, which radiate from their north-west it. 366 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. corner, and cut off all the broken ends of beds as they go along for at least ten miles eacl one oi' them like- wise coinciding with a mineral vein of Smyth's, and cutting oflf (in its extension) the end of the Caradoc and Wenlock, that bothered Aveline towards Llanfyllin. At all events, if they are not vra'is, they are h'lcn vrai- scmhlahles. Several cross faults coinciding with Smyth's mineral veins help to disentangle the confusion ; and if I cannot explain all the minute details, there is no block of country half a mile square that I cannot assign its right position in the series, and say how it got where it is. So that's satisfactory. ... I should say by the end of next week the Corwen sheet will be finished. We shall then only have the north-west corner of the Llangollen sheet, and it will go hard if we can't complete that by the end of the month. So do you and Selwyn hammer away and knock off yonr sheets; you may consider this one safe. And a werry pretty one it'll be ; only scored over with faults in all manner of directions. Got a lot of letters to send, so farewell. — Yours ever, J. B. Jukes. Note by Professor Ramsay. In 1866, a volume explanatory of the Silurian geology of North Wales was published by Mr. Ram- say, forming vol. iii. of the Memoirs of the Geological Survey of Great Britain. In this book, Mr. Jukes contributed nearly the whole of the chapter on the Berwyn Hills, and many paragraphs elsewhere, especially in the descriptions of the Bala country. SWELV AND 'FAULT IN COAL. 367 Penn Fields, Wolverhampton, Dec. 19, 1848. Dear Ramsay, — I was detained all day on Monday in Birmingham, waiting to be examined, and had to go again on Tuesday. Horrid bore ! I told them my opinion was, that the ' swell' at the bottom of the thick coal was an original structure, caused probably by an accumulation of sand or mud in a ridge ; that it existed previously to the deposition of the coal which rests upon it, and consequently previously to all the beds above that ; while the fault was a rent, fissure, or line of fracture which happened subsequently to the forma- tion of all the beds, as it traverses them all ; ergo the 'swell' and the 'fault' were different both in nature and origin, and therefore could have no connection with each other. They seemed well satisfied, and ra- ther interested with my evidence. It is curious, and I shall pay more attention to these things; it appears the gubbin ironstone rose with the ' swell' as they cut through it in driving the gateway. To-day has conse- quently been the first day I could set to work at the maps, but I have finished all except the Corwen sheet, and hope to knock oflf that this week, and go pace tuo to Birmingham on Saturday for a week's holiday, and on January 1 to move to Dudley. . . . It strikes me that, concerning our Cambridge ex- pedition, it would not be a bad dodge to go down with ^ day-ticket on Saturday afternoon and spend Sunday 368 LETTERS OF J, BEETE JUKES, in Cambridge. We could talk with Father Adam at all events, and perhaps look over his rocks. ... I was in hopes we could have had a talk with Selwyn about my faults that run into his work. I fear I shall not feel certain enough about them to insert them of my own authority. LETTERS TO DR. INGLEBY AND OTHER RELATIVES. Explanation as to the selection and arrangement of the series, comprising letters on pliilosophical, religious, political, and literary subjects. A CORRESPONDENCE of a Very different nature from the preceding took place about this time between Mr. Jukes and his cousin Dr. Ingleby, who is now well known to the literary world as a metaphysician and Shakespearian. Dr. Ingleby was many years younger than his cou- sin, and having lately left Trinity College, Cambridge, was residing in London for the study of the law. He has placed these letters in the hands of the Editor, and has kindly furnished some notes in explanation, which will add to their interest. It is to be regretted that this correspondence was not more extended, since it served to elicit an expression of Mr. Jukes' views on some subjects which rarely formed with him a topic of conversation. That he took a very high view of science, those who knew him best can testify, and many pass- ages in his works show that Nature was not to him a cold abstraction, but a revelation, as he says in one of these letters : 'I believe that creation, with all its w^ondors and BB 37° LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. mysteries, and its thousand minute occurrences, is, as it were, the necessary result of the existence of God.' The great aim and ohject of his life was, that know- ledge might 'grow from more to more;' hut it was never separated from the desire that more of 'rever- ence' should * in us dwell.' Among letters that have been collected with the ohject of portraying the character and opinions of their writer, it is fitting that those which in any measure convey his views on * divine philosophy' should find a place. The Editor has therefore added to the letters addressed to Dr. Ingleby portions of others on kindred subjects, written in the year 1843 to her husband chiefly from Australia, at the time when the acquaintance which had previously existed between them became a relationship, together with a few of a later date. Nor would she add any comment of her own, except this one, that whatever might have been her brother's doubts on theoretical points or dogmas of Christianity (and as he himself says, they were ' only doubts'), his practice was of no doubtful nature. More than the generality of meu did he excel in that ' most excellent gift of charity, the very bond of peace and of all virtues,' the fairest of the three queens in the * dusky barge,' which conveys the soul to the regions of eternal light and eternal love.* * Professor Morley on the Arthurian poems. INTRODUCTORY NOTES. 371 Among the graver letters addressed to Dr. Ingleby will 1)6 found a few on lighter subjects — one on a pass- age from Shelley, and another on the style of Macaulay —which may serve to show how many - sided was Mr. Jukes' mind, and how capable he was of enjoying the beauties of poetry and literature, as well as of working out the hard facts of science. It may be noted also that one point touched upon in these letters, and to which their writer ever adhered, is that of the gradual moral improvement of the human race, and their ultimate realisation of a high ideal. In contemplating this golden age, however, he threw his mental glance as far forward into the future as he was accustomed to look back into the past physical history of the globe, and there to trace * processes carried on through periods indefinitely great before man was brought into being.' And as from his conception of those processes were excluded the violent cataclysms autl convulsions which formerly were deemed necessary operations of Nature, so he had no ' "lief in rapid growths, or sudden interpositions, in the moral govern- ment of the world ; but trusted rather to the silent and almost imperceptible progress which, through age after age, should raise man ever higher and higher, . * For Nature, only loud when she destroys, Is silent when she fashions : She will crowd 372 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m ill The work of her destruction, transient, loud, Into an houi', and then long peace enjoys. Yea, every power that fashions and upholds Works silently. All things whose life is siu'e, Their life is calm.' l!^oie hy C. M. Inglehy, introductory to the collection of Letters addressed to him. The letters on the moral government of the world, and on conditions of human well-being (given at pages 386, 389, and 395), were elicited by me on an occasion of great private trouble, which for a time completely jaundiced my mental sight. Looking upon my cousin as a practical man of sound sense, I called upon him to unravel the web of life by which I was then sorely per- plexed, insomuch that I perfectly realised the words of the Psalmist, ' My sight failed me for very trouble, my feet had well-nigh slipped.' The help I sought at his hands was promptly, studiously, frankly, and generously extended to me. In the event, it seemed to me, that he himself found a healthy reaction from my appeal to his experience and intellect, that he * felt the circuit of thought close' (as his and my late friend Sir W. R. Hamilton expresses it), so that his views were at once organised into the form fitted for the Zi^em scripta. I INTRODUCTORY NOTES. 373 have observed tliat men of action stand in need of some ' plane of offence' whereon to break ; and I think I did him that good turn. If so, there was mutual service. He was enabled, as it were, to elaborate and study his own thoughts as reflected in mine. The result was at length the splendid letter of August 16, 1848, one of the finest specimens of epistolary argument I ever met with. In fact, all the letters of the series of July 16 and 23, and August 2 and 16, are very striking. [One can imagine that he may, on rare occasions, have thus shown his innermost mind to his friend Edward Forbes; but unfortunately Jukes' letters to Forbes have not been preserved.] These four letters are the outspeech of manly good sense. Surely it is very noteworthy that Jukes, like a thorough-paced philosopher breaking from the Aufkliirung (the school of eighteenth-century en- lightenment), rightly objects to the conventional separa- tion of intellect from morality. None ever saw more clearly than he did, that the purest morality must be an intclUgcnce. With him, as with Kant, emotions may be serviceable to morals, but morality must be rational rather than emotional. We must own, however, that the intelligence which Jukes had in mind here was the understanding, the faculty which finds cause and effect in particulars, and legislates prudentially for human conduct. In fact, his view on the essential excellence of our appetites — bad only by perversion and excess — is 374 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. identical with that of the Stoics (see Kant's Religion in- nerhalb, Book ii. Exordium). Individual knowledge and social influence were, in his view, competent to keep us from wrong-doing and wrong-suffering. Prudential rules gathered from experience (as laws of Nature are ohtained by induction) were to serve us for * moral laws.' His views on these difficult questions are not for a mo- ment to he confounded with those of the Revulsion, whose last and most vapid outcome was Positivism. On the contrary, his belief in God, freedom, and im- mortality, as regulative ideas, remained unshaken bis whole life long, and his deliberate actions were fraught with a religious element. C. M. Ingleby. This series of letters has been inserted here more in accordance with the subjects upon which they toueii than as following in order of time. Penn Fields, Wolverhampton, Nov. 7, 1847. Dear Mansfield, — I received your last here, where I arrived on Wednesday with Selwyn, a brother officer, to commence the survey of the South Staffordshire coal- fields. ... I also have had one or two semi-controver- sies with some old Cambridge friends of mine, who have the same opinions, I fancy, with Mr. ; hut I found it better to let them drop. Where the matter iu OPINIONS VARIOUS AS FACES. 375 ^. Ingleby. dispute is not clearly founded either on facts, experi- ments, or self-evident truths, a controversy is apt to become a mere verbal firework display, in which each is attending to the ingenuity and brilliance of his own pyrotechnic contrivances, and each is occasionally burnt or heated by his opponent's squibs. In matters of re- ligion especially, where opinions are almost as numerous as men themselves, it is very difficult to get common ideas on which to argue, and it would be absolutely ne- cessary in the first place to settle the exact meaning of every word used. Take such words as ' faith,' * revela- tion.' I have no doubt if you were to dive into your minds, and fish up the real thoughts, and feelings, and motives, and beliefs, which each of you attach to those words, they would be found to be perfectly distinct, and I am sure that no two men have attached precisely identical meanings to them — I mean, of course, men who have thought upon them. It always appears to me that one man's religion (that is to say, his real, internal, religious feeling and belief; not his printed creed or formula, but the totality of his religious ideas) must almost necessarily be as different from every other man's as the totality of all the small muscles, fibres, and skin that make his face, compose a difierent countenance from every other man's. It is so in a great measure even in science, wherevc^ opinion — called in science metaphysics — comes into play, and it must necessarily 376 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. be so in politics and religion. Nevertheless, it is pretty certain that the whole mass of human opinion on these points includes the truth ; it is difficult, however, in descending to particulars, to say which bit is part of the truth, and which not ; and it is evidently most arrogant for any one man to say that he is in possession of all the truth, or possesses nothing but what is part of the truth on those matters. . . . I hope you will get the Burney Prize ; the mere fact of writing an essay of fifty printed pages deserves a prize of some sort. I certainly always thought the old- fashioned essay a very repulsive affair, but I can't re- collect that I ever said, * I hate being taught,' though I am afraid the expression fathers itself on me by the character of its features. . . . I do not altogether agree with you in your opinion of reviewers. An honest and capable reviewer is a very useful and important personage in the world of litera- ture, and there are now many such. Their principal fault, taken as a mass, is cliqueism. . . . J. Beete Jukes. mgmm mm A GEOLOGICAL SONG. 377 Llangynnog, Llanrhaiaclr, Oswestry, May 22, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — I've got a geological song in my head for our next anniversary dinner, but don't know what shape to lick it into. I want an easy rowley-pow- ley, hey-derry-down sort of a tune, adapted to my limited powers in the vocal line. I recollect the chorus of an old drinking song : ' Then troll, troll The bonnie brown bowl, A friend and a glass and a lass for me ! This is the toast Good fellows boast, Whether of high or low degree.' But I can't recollect the beginning of the tune, nor the measure of the verse. Do you know it, or what sort of verse would fit it ? If you do, ploase to note me down the air, or the measure of the verse. Make a nonsense veise to fit it. I could petrify that chorus thus : ' Then roll, roll The rocks like a scroll. Let them be " flat," or " upright" let them stand ; By " strike" and by " dip," Through " fault" and through " slip," We'U map them and section them right through the land.' Again what tune would fit this ? • . ' Free o'er the hills our feet shall roam, "We'U breathe the mountain air, sir ; Care shall not ever dare to come, Nor grief pursue us there, sir. 378 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Joyous in Nature's wildest scene, Where rocks lie topsy-turvy, And falling waters flash between, We'll prosecute the survey. O the survey, the geological survey ! Health and good humour shall be queen Of the geological survey!' You perceive they are intended to be semi-comic, social, and occasional, and only adapted to the select and ini- tiated. I got into a rhyming fit the other day on the hills, and apply to you as my Handel or Haydn. They, the last especially, had often quite as bad, if not worse, verses to operate on. Don't you think a pedestrian ex- cursion across the Berwyns into the vale of Bala would do you good this splendid weather ? If so, come and spend a week with me, and I'll teach you Welsh or geo- logy, which you like. — Yours ever truly, J, Beete Jukes. !ittffi 1 f ^1h ■^'1 ! Llangynnog , Llanrhaiadr, June 1, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — I am very much obliged to you for setting my verses, and wish I had a piano here to see what your tune is like, as I can't tell merely from seeing it. I only fear it is too good for me, and that I shall spoil it if I attempt to sing it myself. I did not mean to impose the task of original composition on you, CRITICISM ON SHELLEY. 379 but only to select a tune from any you know. However, I am all the more obliged. I shall certainly look for some ferns for you ; but I cannot undertake to preserve them. I am continually on the move bag and baggage, and generally in small rooms, crowded with various matters, so should only spoil them. If, however^ you will give me your town address, I'll send them by post, as I get them. I have almost forgotten Shelley, as my life lately has been more hard and practical than for- merly. Still I can relish his singular beauty at times. He is, however, always mystic, and his admirers must be content with the number of beautiful images, thoughts, and emotions he creates, without attempting to define them too accurately, or to give to each a local habitation and a name. In the passage you quote,* as in most others, you must, after reading the whole, re- flect on the total idea produced by the whole in order to get at what is intended, rather than try to separate each passage, and understand them successively. You may * The passage referred to is in Shelley's Prometheus Tin- hound, act. ii. sc. 4. Asia asks, ' Who made that sense, which, when the winds of spring In rarest visitation, or the voice Of one beloved, heard in youth alone, Fills the faint eyes with falling tears, which dim The radiant looks of unbewailing flowers, And leaves this peopled earth a solitude When it returns no more ?' 38o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. then paraphrase it thus : * Who made that fine, dehcate, and exquisite sense which sometimes thrills us in earlier youth, so as with a deep and mingled feeling of pleasure and pain to bring tears to our eyes, when in some lovely scene we feel the first mild breath of spring awakening Nature around us, and hear it breathing over the earth ; or when, alone in some flowery valley, we listen to the voice of one beloved, tears such as flowers (happier, yet ah, how far less happy !) never shed, tears which obscure our sight of them (or perhaps, which, falling on them, dim their appearance), that sense which, tearful as it is, is yet so exquisite that, when in maturer age it is lost, the world seems a desert without it — full of beings, in- deed, but beings with whom we have no longer sym- pathy.' I don't know Becker's Analysis,* but should fancy from its title that it could have no possible connection with Shelley. No mattor-of-fact person, no one without some imagination or who is not facile of suggestion, no one without the poetic temperament — mind, I do not mean poetic power — can appreciate Shelley. He will al- ways remain the poet of poets, that is, of those only of that temperament, and thus can never be popular, or at all events, stir the multitude. I believe this to be a * Dr. Karl Ferdinand Becker, author of the Organism of Language, 1827. My reference was to his German grammar. Fancy parsing Shelley under the rollers of Becker ! C. M. I. CRITICISAf ON SHELLEY. 381 defect — beautiful as are his poems — a great defect, and that all great poets must pass through the process which Shelley did to a higher one. He remained satisfied with the dreams and reveries of his imagination, it appears to me, instead of strongly mastering them, compressing them into form and substance, and setting them before the world as a * thing of beauty,' to be * a joy for ever,' and to all. He is thus, too, more peculiarly the poet of youth, when the emotions are somewhat undefined ; in older age I fancy we require something more pronounced and decided. I do not know which party has the ad- vantage there. Formerly I should have said the young, certainly ; now I hesitate ; hereafter, I suppose, I shall say the old. Should you feel the want of some fresh air, after a certain time in London, by all means run down to have a week with me. The railway comes to Ruabon, and you can be there in six or seven hours, and it is only five or six miles from Llangollen, at the north end of the Berwyn range, which I am surveying. I hope my aunt and uncle are quite well. Give my best love to them ; and believe me, as ever, yours most truly, J. Beete Jukes. 382 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Llanrhaiadr, Oswestry, June 13, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — As it rains like blazes (congruous simile !) I am writing letters for lack of something else to do, so can reply to your note. I daresay your analysis is quite right, as * subjects,' * predicates,' ' attributes,' &c. are not at all in my line. I think, however, the sen- tence can easily be reduced to the strict rules of gram- mar by the supplying the little word ' is* or * are,' or both. It is a mere case of ellipsis. The word * heard' is not the participle, but the third person singular or plural of the present tense, the sign of the tense or auxiliary verb being omitted by poetical license ; thus, ' When the winds of spring In rarest visitation [are] , or the voice Of one beloved in youth [is] heard in youth alone.' I apply * heard in youth alone' to the sound of ' the winds,' as well as that of * the voice.' The difficulty and obscurity of the sentence to my mind is the ' dim the radiant looks,' not your X. and Y. As to ferns, you must wait for fine weather at all events. There is no going on the mountains in such rain as this, unless with the full intention of getting soaked to the bones, and perhaps losing oneselfinabog into the bargain. You address your letter to the So- ciety of Ec. Geology. It is not a society, but a Govern- ment department, a branch of the Woods and Forests. The IMuseum of Ec. Geology, or the Geological Survey CRITICISM ON SHELLEY. 383 Office, is the proper title. On looking over your analysis again, I see that, translated into your language, ' heard' would be a predicate of the ' winds' and the * voice,' in- stead of an attribute of the latter only. Translated into Latin — canine rather — it would be * Cum, solus et ju- venis, venti veris raro venientes, vel vox amatse auditur.'* Give my best love to my aunt and uncle, if in Lon- don, and believe me ever truly yours, J. Beete Jukes. Llanrhaiadr, Oswestry, July 12, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — I have delayed answering your last till I could get some ferns for you. I have now only one, a lump of mountain parsley. It seems curi- ous, but whether it will be valuable in your eyes I know not. I know where you are now. In the year 1835 I went to see my uncle Henry near where you now live. Oxford and Cambridge Terraces were then half finished, and ended in fields near the Grand Junction Water- * Acting on Jukes' hint of paraphrase in a foreign language, I may venture to explain the meaning of ' dim the radiant looks of unbcwailing flowers,' by rendering it thus : ' Ch' ompie 1' occhio debole cotte lagrime che offiiscono L" aspetto raggiante del hon-sympatico Jior,' 'i^,del scompiangentejior. The flowers are not taken as unfeehng, but as being out of relation to human suflfering, and themselves untouched by sorrow. C. M. I. 384 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. wKk ""^'Hfli works. In these fields there was a row of small cot- tages, called Spring-terrace, near the back of the water- works, looking over a kind of common towards Bays- water, to which there was a footpath, leading between a number of small tenements and gardens, inhabited prin- cipally by washerwomen. It was ornamented by lines of clothes, waving in the wind, and poor uncle Henry said he called it * Washington.' He lived in Spring- terrace, which, I have no doubt, is near the site of the present Spring-street. There are a few remains of the gardens and tenements, I recollect, just round the pub- lic-house on the Bayswater-road, unless some lath-and- plaster palaces have swallowed them up since last winter. WTiat do you mean by a moral government of the world ? I have never studied these questions, and so am not up to the technicalities which may be concealed in them. Do you mean merely that there are moralk'is in the same sense that there are i^kysical ones ?■ If so, it appears to me that, just as the existence of matter being granted, it follows that there are laws which regulate that existence, so the existence of soul — im- material entity — being granted, it follows that there must be laws regulating that also ; a fortiori, if beings exist compounded of the two, there must be laws regu- lating not only both principles, but the method, &c. of their association. POLITICAL SPECULATIONS. 385 I fancy, however, this was not all you meant ; if so, explain. John Bull won't fight unless something hap- pens to put his blood up ; and just at present he'll take a great deal more to get it up than he formerly would. I have no particular personal objection to war myself, and I don't know whether I should not enjoy it if per- sonally engaged, but as a matter of prudence and policy its absurdity becomes every day more evident. I think the Whigs will stay in till Peel feels or fancies himself strong enough to come in and take their place, and carry Hume's four points, or the Charter, and thus put himself at the head of a new party. I hope some time to see a strong, firm, moderate, demo- cratic party, that, backed by an immense majority of the people, shall come in and sweep rway all the relics and ilregs of feudalism in which we are now living, reduce the army and navy to a skeleton, remodel the law, the Church, and the whole system of government, abolish all but direct taxation, and, in short, commence a new era in the world's history. How do you manage to exist in London ? To be sure, your black mare is an alleviation. It is absolutely hot here, but the hills and country are splendid, and the whole valley redolent of hay. The new book on sea margins is by K. Chambers. I have not read it. It is, I expect, crotchety, like his Vestiges. 00 386 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Well, I think I have returned your compliment, and feeling tired, knock off. — Ever yours, J. Beete Jukes. Llanrhaiad"^, July 16, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — You have set me a job, and I am sure I can't do it. The fact is, I have no defined religious opinions ; that I believe to be the true state of the case. I never tried to work them out in any way, and I think it probable I never shall, since I don't see how my solving a riddle, or fancying I have solved it, can alter the real state of the case, or even affect my own condition. I shall merely therefore reply to your letter, that I certainly have no belief in a special Pro- vidence, according to the ordinary acceptation of the word. If a vessel v^ry narrowly escapes a dreadful shipwreck, it is called a great mercy, and solemn thanks- givings are made; if a wine-glass tumbles, and does not break, a man would say, * That's a bit of luck.' Now, there must be just as much of providence in the one case as in the other, and according to my idea of tlie Deity, He would be just as much affected by one of these expressions as the other. I believe that He has impressed upon His creation an infinite number cf la\\s, some of which are known to us and some not ; and that those laws act permanently and invariably, although VIEWS ON PROVIDENCE. 387 their action is either unknown to us, or disregarded by us. Wliat we call chance or accident is merely an ex- pression of our ignorance of the causes of any fact, or the conditions undev which it took place. At the same time, it is not a blind destiny that rules everything; because, by discovering natural laws and obeying them, we can rule events to a certain extent. We do so in lifting a chair, and every other action. Special provi- dence is only a pious name for chance. Llanyedwyn, July 23. I was interrupted here, and since then have been moving to this place, and much occupied. I do not know that my illustrations above express my meaning exactly, but perhaps you will be able to discover it. I mean that there is a providence in the highest and most general sense of the term, but * special providence,' in the sense of interposition according to circumstances, seems to me an idea not only unworthy of God, but absolutely contradictory of the best notion we can form of Deity with our imperfect faculties. From our very constitution, it must be that our ideas of Deity are after all but an exalted anthropomorphism ; but still, though very incomplete and imperfect, they may con- tain much truth. Now one necessary attribute seems to me to be unchangeableness. I cannot conceive of M waiting for events in order to act, or interposing 388 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. to alter tlie order or consequences of atiy event ; but I look rather upon all beings and all events as the result of invariable laws, the emanation, as it were, of God. That with a perfect foreseeing and an absolute in- variability of law, and therefore predestination, there should still be liberty of will to human beings, is one of those mysteries that we are utterly incapable of un- derstanding, but which I yet firmly believe. . I feel that I am free to walk across the room, or not ; and yet I know that if I do so, I do it not only according to in- variable laws, but that my doing so has been a foreseen and predestined event from all eternity. Should a beam fall and crush me, or miss me, it is equally the result of laws predetermined, although unknown to me. If it miss me, I may, and ought to, be grateful ; but I must not on that account suppose it was supernaturally de- flected. Moreover it appears to me that, if I make it a subject of special thanksgiving, I am rather presump- tuous than devout, and the question occurs, why was the danger allowed to approach me at all ? After all, this subject, like all its kindred ones, when pursued far, leads into an entangled maze of mysteries and arguments, from which differently constituted minds will draw all kinds of different results. I do not feel called upon to pursue it so far for my own satisfaction, since I feel I have not the leisure, and I think not the capacity, for it. I rest satisfied, therefore, with the be- PERFECTNESS OF CREATION. 389 lief in a God ' in whom is no shadow of changing ;' and I believe that creation, with all its wonders and mys- teries, and its thousand minute occurrences, is, as it were, the necessary result of the existence of God ; the thousand invariable laws that cause and govern them, Howiug likewise directly and necessarily from that exist- ence. Does this answer your question ? — Believe me, as ever, yours truly, J. Beete Jukes. Llanyedwyn, Aug. 2, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — I believe I now understand you fully, and will answer in this way. It follows from my —and your — idea of Deity, that everything He created is most perfect to answer the end intended. What the object of creation can be, as far as regards God, we can form no conception. No doubt He intended the great- est happiness of His creatures as a collateral result, and I can't help believing, though I can't understand it, that their greatest happiness is in some way worked out by the existing arrangements. I cannot believe, then, that injustice can form part of those arrangements, or be the result of them, and must conclude, that what ap- pears to be so, would be strict justice, could we know all h causes and antecedents. I do not believe in a system of rewards and punishments in a judicial sense, as it 390 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. were, as if God judged of the action and then assigned its consequence. This would be nothing else but spe- cial interposition, which we both give up. But I am forced to believe that every action has its necessary consequence, and that that consequence is a just one; and we know from our own feelings that happiness is the result of good actions, and vice versa. The happiness may not be apparent to others, &c. &c. I do believe, therefore, that in the original scheme of creation, it was ordained (as a necessary consequence of the power, wisdom, and justice of God) that our happi- ness and misery should be exactly proportioned to our virtue and vice : in other words, that precisely as we understood the laws of Nature and acted in accordance with them, so would be our condition. I see no reason to suppose that there is any difference between the moral and physical laws in this respect; but that just as we discover and make use of the physical laws to in- crease our i^hysical powers and benefit our physical or material condition, so we may, by discovering and obey- ing the moral laws, increase our moral powers and bene- fit our moral condition. I believe that in each case early training and exercise (education) is necessary, but I know no region of the world in which a truly moral education has yet been attempted, and tliereforc, in my opinion, is there no region where man has at- tained to anything like the happiness of which he is MORALITY AND KNOWLEDGE. 39» capable, because this happiness depends on the general spread of morality. The best man, tlio man who most truly obeys the laws, must, if placed among the im- moral and ignorant, be constantly injured by their actions, and must constantly have his own obedience to the laws rendered more diflficult and often impossible. I look upon pain not so much as a punishment as a warn- ing. If you put your finger into the fire and get burnt, you don't call it a punishment — it is a warning to prevent your doing that which would destroy the part. Both the moral and physical pain and misery of the world, are constant warnings to avoid things hurtful and de- structive, and incentives to strive for those which are beneficial. I do not know anything which it is pleasant to do, which is not also proper to be done, provided it is done in obedience to the moral laws, under proper re- strictions as to time, place, quantity, &c. &c. The grand thing which is wanted is knowledge — that is, knowledge common to all. Were every one fully instructed and trained in the moral laws — many of which probably have yet to be discovered, or, at all events, to be plainly stated and illustrated — the vast majority would act in obedi- ence to them from choice, and often with a wise self- denial of immediate gratifications, knowing their bad consequences ; the vast majority do so now, as far as they have been taught, and the small minority who, from weakness of any part of their physical or moral consti- 392 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. tution, were liable to make continual ' mistakes,' we will call them, would have all public and private opinion against them — instead of for them, as often now — and thus be not only instructed in the right way, but helped to pursue it, and, as it were, kept in it by force. Our happiness is infinitely increased by its being our own work. This we all feel; indeed if it is not our own work, it is not felt to be happiness till perhaps it is lost. The happiness of the human race, therefore, is meant to be worked out by themselves, by discovering and obeying the physical and moral laws of Nature. This does not necessarily sacrifice the first workers, because much is easily discovered and obeyed instinctively, and it is probable that, even at the beginning, the hap- piness of the wliole world is greater so tho.n if it were a mere paradise, with no room for, or occasion for, exer- tion.* It may seem paradoxical, but I believe it is not untrue in one sense, that * evil' is the source of ' good,' that without the existence of the one we could not have the other. At all events, the good and happiness to be attained is greatly increased and heightened by the very fact of there being an evil and a misery to be avoided. Evil, pain, misery, therefore, are necessary for the pro- duction of the greatest good, enjoyment, and happiness. * Almost an echo of Haller's lines : * This world, with all its faults, Is better than a realm of will-less angels.' PREDOMINANCE OF HAPPINESS. 393 Mo)< over, it appears to me that, for the attainment of the greatest happiness, there should be a great variety of faculties capable of appreciating it, and therefore an almost infinite variety of circumstances under which they can be placed, and in which they can be exercised. We are therefore perpetually liable to do things that shall cause pain or pleasure either to ourselves or to others. That the consequences of my actions should be undeserved injury to another, is what you call injustice (so it is yer se), but — First, it is a necessary consequence of the existence of evil and the variety above mentioned, both of which are necessary for the production of the greatest happiness. Secondly, if done voluntarily, it is punished by re- morse, which ought to teach me not to do the like again, and may lead me to atone for it, and thus produce more happiness to both than if it were not done, or its ex- ample may, at least, deter others, &c. &c. Thirdly, if involuntary, it is, if known, atoned for, and if not known, still in a thousand ways a greater good may arise from it to the injured person from my- self or others. Fourthly, if it be a pure injury, never reversed or ameliorated in this life — for I confine all remarks to that — it is a rare exception, and its permanency must almost necessarily be the result of some weakness or in- capacity or fault of the recipient, the observation of 394 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. .'SIJ which may still he useful to many others, and thus pro- duce a greater sum of happiness than if it had never been done. You may spin a thousand cases, hut the most difficult one to imagine is, the one from which ml only arises. A recipient of evil only becomes one of your small expiators, but I can't say I ever met with one. With- out partial evil and injustice, what becomes of the plea- sure of pity, compassion, generosity, sympathy, &c. ? There would be no room for these faculties, and thus a great sum of happiness lost. I thus arrive finally at the conclusion, that 'justice is sooner or later done; so much pleasure for so much virtue' — and a great deal more — * so much pain for so much vice' — and no more than is necessary to warn mankind to avoid it ; only I define virtue and vice as obedience and disobedience to the moral and physical laws of God, and I believe obedi- ence to be the necessary consequence of the knowledge of them ; and therefore I conclude that pain or evil is the result of ignorance only, but as we can never have perfect knowledge in this world, evil must necessarilj' exist, but may be diminished to almost any extent. I don't understand you about free will, but can't discuss it now. It is two o'clock in the morning. I have had three hard days' work, and must have another to-morrow, having already had a nap on the sofa. — Ever yours, J. Beete Jukes. MYSTERIES INSOLUBLE. 395 Llnmjo/len, Aug. 10, 1848. Dear Mansfield, — I can easily conceive, that much which I have written to you is not strictly logical or coherent, because I have never thought deeply or con- secutively on the subject, never reasoned it out. I find, when I take up my pen, the ideas or notions in my mind ; but how they got there, or when, I have no certain knowledge. As to mine being *a theory of compensations like that of the modern sensationalists, such as John Stuart Mill,' as I never read any of their writings, I cannot say. Our minds certainly seem either differently constituted or differently trained, in- asmuch as we have some difficulty in understanding each other. I do not think that my belief in God's justice can be rightly termed faith. It is, to my mind, an attribute of the Deity, inseparable from His exist- ence, so that I could not possibly believe in a God at all, if I did not consider Him a perfect being, all-wise, all- good, as well as all-powerful. The existence of free will with necessity, and of evil with good, is one of those mysteries which we may perhaps be able to under- stand in a future state, but which I do not think the mind of man adequate to comprehend in our present state, with our limited faculties. Neither can I under- stand the connection of spirit with matter, nor the method of the production of thought, nor life itself. If I do but move my finger, it is an action the nature 396 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. of which I cannot comprehend. I wish to do so, and it is done; but how or why I can never know. Not only is the connection of the material with the im- material obscure, but the very existence of matter is a puzzle which, as you know, has led some men to deny it. I am content, then, to rest satisfied with the belief — or faith, if you like — that matter exists, and also the immaterial, and the connection between the two, although the clear and certain knowledge of it is unattainable by me, and, I believe, by every one else* When I said that knowledge is the one thing needful, I meant a perfect knowledge, which is, of course, unattainable by man. If a man could foresee every consequer'^e of each ac- tion — if it were all present to his mind — it seems to me impossible but that he must choose the one which should be productive of the greatest happiness in lihe totality ; and I think it is evident that that could only be produced by doing right. Now, although a perfect knowledge be unattainable, yet we may approach it by a quantity less than any that can be assigned, and I be- lieve we are approaching to it, though slowly. As an instance, take drunkenness. Could society ever go back to what it was in the last century ? Is not the abandon- ment of it by all the instructed classes, the direct result of the increased knowledge of its consequences. I know that that knowledge does not enable a drunkard to re- form, but the general spread of that knowledge produces MORAL AND PHYSICAL LAWS. 397 a 'puhlic opinion adverse to the vice, instead of in favour of it, renders it disreputable, and therefore not only diminishes the number of drunkards, but increases the number of the sober ; i.e. not only frees those disin- clined to it, from the necessity of complying, but re- strains those who are naturally inclined to it. No doul)t some men voluntarily do what is right because it is hcliercd to be right ; and some men have a frame of as much grace, strength, and agility as the human body is capable of ; but the mass of men fall far short of this type of human goodness, moral or physical, and they require aids and appliances to effect that, of which the first are capable singly. Now if the existence and the possibility of using these aids and appliances may be used as proofs of design in the physical world, why not in the moral? Are not the passions, the sentiments, the affections, the relations of mind with mind, the wonderful variety of intellectual powers and abilities, their mutual adaptations to themselves and the physical world around them, capable of affording as many proofs of benevolent design as any adaptations of the physical world ? Taking your case of a person suffering consti- tutional disease for the sins of his ancestors. There are many men careless of themselves, but feeling for others. To them the knowledge of the probability of the transmission of disease to children may be a stronger check against the act that shall produce it, than the .398 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. probability of disease or death to themselves ; or a man may find himself condemned to celibacy from this cir- cumstance, and thus be a warning to others, &c. &c. I believe that even hereditary insanity will in this way be eventually eradicated from the world. I think one great source of error in these subjects arises from the practice of separating the moral from the intellectual. I do not believe in any essential dis- tinction between the two. At all events, the distinction is a mere arbitrary one, for the purposes of our nomen- clature and classification rathei* than in the nature of things. I believe man to consist of body and soul (what is called 'mind,' is the action of the soul through the organs of the body) ; but the union of body and soul is so intimate, that it is impossible to refer any action or thought wholly either to the one or the other. Still, our (1) actions, (2) feelings, or (3) thoughts may be classi- fied as (1) sensual, (2) moral, or (3) intellectual, according as we feel (1) the body, (2) the body plus the soul, or (3) the soul to be more directly concerned in them ; but yet there can be no voluntary action in which the soul is not concerned, nor any thought which is not modified by the body. (Whether the souls of all men are equal and similar, and the diversity among them caused wholly by varieties of body, or whether they ever have been equal and similar in a pre-existent state, or ever will be so in a future one, I do not even care to know.) It is evident, MORAL TRAINING. 399 then, that there can he nothing sensual in which there is not also something intellectual ; so the connection be- tween the moral and intellectual must be much more in- timate, and their boundaries often insensible. Education (including training) is necessary for each assemblage of faculties ; but while man can educate and train and exercise his senses and bodily powers, or his intellects, to a great degree singly and in solitude, his moral powers especially require to be educated, exercised, and trained in conjunction with those of others. They can't be exercised in solitude, for they are then merely in- tellectual ideas. Now the utter absence of this moral training has been the cause of almost all the evil and misery in the world. Its general diffusion over the globe some 10,000 years hence, say, is that which shall re- generate the whole earth. Then cometh the Millennium. I find, on reading over, that I have been giving you my own notions rather than trying to enter into yours ; but perhaps that is the best way, as enabling you to judge and compare. You seem to me to think that the balance in this life is in favour of evil, of unhappiness, that there is more of both than of good and happiness ; to my mind the balance is the other way, so that there is no wretch so miserable, or wicked, or depraved, but has more pleasure 'than pain, and more of good in him than evil. In all cases pain and wickedness are the small exceptions, Of they would ■m 400 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, fi cease to be felt or remarked. There is certainly more than enough of both ; but pleasure, goodness, and hap- piness arc infinitely more abundant. That they are the rule, and not the exception, is shown by the fact that they are not felt or remarked till they are lost. We are so accustomed to them, that the exceptions only strike us as wonderful ; arid then it is more often the absence of a certain portion of them than the presence of their opposites. That we can always imagine a higher degree of felicity than that in which we exist, while it tends to make us dissatisfied with our present state, and is so far evil, yet gives us always hope, and always urges us on to endeavour to attain it ; and hope and action are great goods. I cannot at all understand why you fail to see proofs of benevolent design in the moral world ; they appear to me quite as abundant, and more striking than those that are purely physical. "What think you of family affection, of the pleasure derived from generosity, making benevolence pleasing to the doer, as well as useful to the receiver ; nay, attaching pleasure to the exercise of every quality, such as courage, and even rewarding ' endurance of pain or self-denial with a pleasing consciousness in the very act of their exercise ; sO that a man, by denying himself a gratification he is tempted to take, shall eventually experience more pleasure than if he had taken it— a pleasure springing up unawares and unforeseen in his ON THE STYLE OF MACAU LAY. 401 own heart, and utterly independent of all external cir- cumstances. The pleasures of hope, memory, and imagination are the very themes of poets. In short, I know no moral faculty which is not the source of plea- sure, and the more so the more it is exercised, while the reverse is the case with bodily pleasures. Now all this seems to me strong proof of benevolent design. You might fill volumes with instances and examples. Well, I have occupied a wet morning with the above. I hope they have a better harvest in America than we are likely to have here. — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. Dudley, May 6, 1849. Dear Mansfield, — I have not been able to read either Layard or Macaulay yet. I have read some of Macaulay's essays, and do not wholly agree with you as to his style. Speaking of style generally, you are right. I like a plain, homely, condensed Saxon style, — nervous, strong, picturesque, and expressive ; but I should hardly wish Macaulay to change his style. It appeared to me to be not diffuse^ not laboured, not puffed up, not padded, nor trained into a march, with a regular pom- pous cadence and measured swing like Gibbon's ; but to oe clear — very clear — striking, nervous, perhaps a little 402 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ■'I too trenchant, glittering, and brilliant, but only a little, and its brilliancy set out its beauty with a graceful air, for which one quite forgave it. (One pardons a really beautiful woman a few airs of coquetry and pretension which would be insufferable in a dowdy.) For such a style the pure Saxon is not alone sufficient, and we must recollect that English is not pure Saxon. When we have good Saxon words with the full meaning of those of foreign origin, it is better not to use the latter; but there are many ideas, and many more shades of meaning, for which the Saxon has no expression, and by taking words from foreign languages we have ex- tended and enriched the Saxon into English. Every good writer, therefore, ought to take full advantage of all the resources of the instrument placed at his dis- posal. I send you this small scrap of criticism as a kind of observation across the table on reading your note ; and am yours most truly, J. Beete Jukes. Dudley, May 9, 1849. Dear Mansfield,— So far from finding fault with the three sentences you first quote from Macaulay, I maintain the repetition of the word is not only proper, but proper in a high degree, as adding clearness, force, ON THE STYLE OF MACAU LAY. 403 aud strength to the expression.* Your formulas I hold to be bosh, and don't understand what you mean by the 'universe.' Your reference to page 50 does not fit the edition I have, which is the fourth. * Noisy or tumultu- ous' tribune is by no means fully equal to * stormy.' He might be noisy or tumultuous, and not succeed in raising a storm after all. *Who had wrung money out of dissenters.* You pro- pose 'extorted;' exactly the same meaning — twisted out ; but ' wrung' is Saxon, and * extorted' is Latin. * The conflicts of the royal mind did not escape the eye of.' You say, * The king's indecision was observed;' feeble, since 'indecision' falls far short of * conflicts,' and ' not escaping the eye of ' conveys the idea that they were attempted to be concealed, and therefore might liave escaped, if he had not looked sharp, while simply ' observing' them would only convey that they were ob- vious to observation. * The passages criticised in this letter are in vol. ii. of Mac- aulay's Histonj of England. I refer to the third edition, 1849. Possibly the passages on p. 50 were those containing the repetition of the words ' hypocrisy,' ' vice.' That concerning the feelings of the xVnglican clergy towards James II. is on p. 307. Jukes' apt comparison of a good style to female beauty might have been suggested by Macaulay's reflection on the dowdy Cathe- rine Scdley ' affecting all the graces of eighteen.' Evidently the liis- torian, unlike the majority of his sex, found more attractions inform than inperson, or he would not have been astonished at the king's preference for the fond and sprightly matron. C. M. I. i!l!>i 404 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. * The clergy now regarded the king with those feel- ings which injustice aggravated hy ingratitude naturally excites.' You substitute for that * indignation ;' but Macaulay shows you here the cause, and also the kind of indignation ; he gives you the reason and the measure of it, and at the same time accuses the king and excuses the clergy. Moreover, there are more feelings involved than simple indignation. The sentence last given seems to me to be a capital one, pregnant with meaning, clearly hut most tersely and concisely expressed, not one word superfluous. I should he at a loss how to express so much in so few words. I have not yet been able to read more than a few pages, and formed my opinion of his style from his essays. Hard at work, sectionising all day. — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. VarU of letters to A. H. Browne from on hoard H.M.S. Fly. North-east coast of Australia, April 10, 1843. . . . You and I are totally opposed in our religious and political opinions. You may not have perceived how totally, because these with me are serious matters, and serious matters are more rarely on my tongue than in my brain. As to religion, I give no farther weight POLITICAL OPINIONS. 405 to authority of any kind, whether written or oral, than my own judgment accords to it. In politics my heart is with the mass of men. I have never yet taken a part in public aflfairs, because I hate strife and detest party spirit and clannish feelings ; but should I ever feel myself called on to act, my voice, my hand, or my pen would be at the service of v;hat is called the mob, Radicals, Chartists, and all. When I say at the ser- vice, I do not mean to flatter or pander to them, but to render them true real service, to correct their faults, and to elevate their condition if I could. "We may, then, be publicly opposed to each other ; will that raise any barrier to our friendship in private life ? On my side, no. Some of my oldest and most valued friends are as much opposed to me on these points as yourself. In private conversation they are sealed subjects with us, but we are not the less friends on that account. I should detest the thought of letting a conscientious difference of opinion on any subject interrupt my friend- ship with a man who was worthy in other respects to he my friend.* * It is almost needless to state that this generous sentiment was heartily reciprocated, nor was it found necessary that religion and politics should remain ' sealed subjects.' Mr. Jukes had, in- deed, at this time an imperfect knowledge of his brother-in-law's political opinions, which were independent of party, and were as much opposed to oppression and wrong as his own. Still a great difference of opinion on both subjects existed, and continued to I: \W 406 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. On reading over my letter, I find I have spoken with great plainness. Tlie fact is, I was lying awake in the morning-watch thinking of these things, and as soon as I could see, I got up and dashed off what you have read. Will you take it in all the plainness, sincerity, and good feeling with which it was meant ? Loving A. as I do, it was hardly possible that my feelings should not be agitated when I thought of what so nearly concerned her happiness, and words in that case flow from one's mouth or one's pen somewhat without control. Enough; you will, I hope, understand me. HM.8. Fly, Oct. 11, 1844. As to religion, you are right when you say I have not devoted much time to the study of it, if by study you mean the reading of many theological or polemical works. How many years would it take even to read through the works published by the various Christian sects, so as to arrive at a knowledge of their various opinions, much less to balance the evidence for and against each opinion, and to arrive at an honest and conscientious judgment on them? If, however, you the end ; but the ties of friendship and brotherhood were never broken, and Mr. Jukes was ever regarded by his brother-in-law as the embodiment of manliness, generosity, and intellectual power. RELIGIOUS OPINIONS. 407 throw these aside, and come merely to the evidence for and against revelation itself — that the Bible is the word of God — my doubts (for they are only doubts) rather bang upon a jpriori considerations.* What do you mean strictly by * revelation' ? what do you mean by the * So appropriate are the following noble words of the Bishop of CarUsle to the frame of mind here described, that he will par- don their being quoted from a lecture delivered on May 12, 1H71, in couuectiou with the Christian Evidence Society : ' Be it ever remembered that ^he word sceptic is derived from a word which means to look or to see. It is the same word which forms the root of the word " bishop" or " overseer," and, accordingly, there is nothing radically reproachful in the name of" sceptic." It impHes that a man is determined to look into matters for him- self; not to trust every assertion, not to repeat a parrot creed; and, so far as tliis determination is concerned, it is high and noble, and is, in fact, the very root and spring of all human knowledge. But who can wonder if looldng should lead to doubting, ;i id that so the name of sceptic should popularly imply, not the man who looks and believes, but the man who looks and doubts ? And I am not ashamed to confess that I have much sympathy with tliis sceptical frame of mind. Not only is it closely connected with a noble instinct of inquiry and search for truth, which God has implanted in the human mind, but also, as I believe, it is well- nigh impossible that an inquiring mind should deal seriously with religious subjects, and remain entirely free from doubt. In my opinion, the amount of scepticism wliich has, during some period of Ms Ufe, occupied the mind of each thoughtful earnest man will be merely a question of degree ; wliile at the same time, I most sincerely believe that scepticism ought not to be, and need not be, the lasting condition of the human soul, and that all iloubts may be made to vanish in the light which God has given to lighten every man who is born into the world.' ^■1 4o8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. * word of God' ? I do not ask what is the nature of God, nor even of spirit. I do not and cannot under- stand what my own soul really is, and how it is con- nected with the body. I seek for a solution of mysteries ; I only deprecate the use of mystifications. Have I any other faculty than reason, or any other means than the use of it, to arrive at a knowlecl^^e of anything, to understand even the commonest abstract term ? GuJ Himself, if He addressed me, must address me through my reason, since He has given me no other or higher faculty by which to receive His communica- tions. A fortiori, therefore, I have no other means of comprehending man or the wc of man. But the Bible was written by man. ]So. my chief difficulty lies here — what is, or was, the nature of revelation ? how did it act upon or govern the reason of those who received and imparted it? There is something of human in the Bible ; there is much of what we call imagery, metaphor, poetry in it, there is diflference of style. Each person who received this revelation imparted to the portion he transmitted, the tinge, the colouring of his own mind. Can we be sure there is not also something of the imperfection, the faults, the errors, the preju- dices of his own mind also ? Before, therefore, I enter on the subject of external evidence, I must have the internal nature of the work or works explained to me. I have never yet seen this done, and should be glad if KES. NATURE OF REVELATION, 409 the nature of cannot under- how it is con- ' a solution of mystifications. , or any other a knowleflp^e of aonest abstract 3, must address en me no other [is communica- other means of man. But the 1 chief difficulty of revelation'': m of those who liing of human call imagery, of style. Each iparted to the olouring of his also something ors, the preju- Brefore, I enter odust have the plained to me. Duld be glad if Q you could tell me in what book I may find it. In short, let any one explain or define revelation to me, and I will at once tell him whether I believe in it or not. I do not now heartily believe it, solely because I am at a loss to understand what it is. Give up tho common and stricter interpretation of it; let it gua- rantee not the absolute truth of any and every part of the Bible, not every text, but the main and general doctrines which are to be deduced from tho whole — such as the immortality of the soul, universal charity, faith, hope, love, forbearance, long-suffering, peace — and but little external evidence would be required to convince every man. Priests, sects, ^eeds — these have been in my mind the grand enemies t Christianity. I suppose, according to the usual course, we should neither make much change in the opinion of the other on these points. . . . The less you can approximate to certainty and demonstration on any subject, the more eager and determined are men's minds upon it. The cause is plain. Reason admits not of dispute — it is one; passions, feelings, prejudices are infinitely va- rious, they are consequently necessarily opposed. The one is a straight line capable of being divided into parts, and many parts of which are unknown to one man or to all; the others are an infinite number of lines of all sizes, and meeting in all directions and at mm^' 410 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ^ every possible angle. There is a magazine-article sen- tence for you. Toryism, under whatever new guise it may now please or he forced to disguise itself, is essentially this — the mass of the people are to be kept in subjection, in ignorance, and consequently wi!:hout power; they are to be kept at the minimum of power possible in each state of society, in order that the jew whom acci- dent of position, natural genius, or other circumstances may elevate above them, shall govern them quietly, and divide riches, honours, and power among themselves. The more benevolent among them would supply ' the poor' with material goods — food, clothing, and shelter, and think they go to the extreme of philanthropy when they make them * haj^py and contented /' but they have a pious horror of the ' turbulent many,' the * many- headed monster,' &c. Thi fundamental fact is, that they cease to regard them as fellow-men, as equal In the sight of God. Now, I am no leveller. Political and social equality is a dream. Men must be as various in station and condition as they are in face ; but I do pro- test against the contempt of the loiver orders innate in the bosom of what are called the higher classes, both Tories and Whigs, however fashionable it may be to disguise it at the present day. Of this habitual con- tempt I have difficulty in even divesting myself, so in- veterate are the prejudices of early education and asso- CLASS PREJUDICES. 411 ne-article sen- ciation. It is mixed up with all our thoughts and all oar deeds concerning our fellow -men. No land, no nation is yet free from it, has hardly made an effort to be free. It is as rife in democratic America as in t.,ris- tocratic England. For forms, institutions, and parties I care nothing, except as means to an end. You must use them as instruments. Human nature is yet in its infancy, and requires restraints and encouragements, whippings or sugar-plums, according to circumstances. The time will come when every man, whatever his sta- tion in society, shall stand erect to his work, shall act in it without fear of his neighbour, shall be conscious of his own soul, and possess it with perfect freedom. Such is an imperfect hint of the foundation of my poli- tical creed. It is as yet an abstract faith merely, with- out hope that either I or any one can in this age act up to it. But shall we fear, hide, or disguise the truth because we ourselves are not at all times true to it ? Llanwddyn, Welchpool, April 19, 1848. Dear Alfred, — Will you enlighten me on the ob- scure subject of the land tax — how much it is per acre, who pays it, &c. ? Government will now, if they are wise, themselves propose some of the points of the Charter, or something similar : a very large extension of the suffrage at the very least, and a kind of electoral- '.•mt»f»^< ^^ iw ^ i m mu mm ss m ^ WmU' !f 412 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Hi district arrangement. I would amalgamate localities and populations, so that, while I left no large district, however thinly peopled, unrepresented, I would, at all events, in thickly peopled districts, give a proportional number of representatives. Then the present aristo- cracy and their followers must succumb, and a very large infusion of democratic principles and action and feeling must be poured into the government, and, if possible, into the tone of society, and thoughts and habits of the people. I don't want to smash things all at once — that is the very thing I want to avoid; and in order to do so, I would have men who should acknow- ledge they wanted altering, and avow they were ready to set about it. Then let it be done with all solemnity, deliberation, and discussion. I believe if you were to propose to the present House of Commons just now to make the monarchy absolute, to double the army and navy, and rule by divine right, they would vote them all by a majority of 170 ! There is a temper and feel- ing abroad in the country of which the Ministry and the House seem little aware, and which it would be sa- lutary to them to know. Llanwddyn, April 29, 1B48. Dear Alfred-, — Much obliged for your abstract of the land tax, which I never understood before. It is a POLITICAL PROPOSITIONS. 413 very good tax if fairly rated and collected, and I should then be glad to see it increased tenfold. Forbes and I are having a political consultation. We agree in : 1. Educational suffrage — every man that can read and write easily so as to be understood. 2. Electoral districts, and representation equal to population. 3. No property qualification. 4. Taxation strictly according to property. 5. Simplification of law, public prosecution of crimi- nals, and no private costs but in private suits. He also proposes : 6. The constitution of a clerisy, consisting of the clergy and the medical and legal bodies, and the re- storation of church property to this clerisy, and its including the entire instruction of the people. 7. Landholders to be made trustees of land for peo- ple, and to be made to do their duty by the state. 8. Every citizen has a right to either food or work from the state. 9. Class representation. Electors to be registered in classes according to their pursuits, and only to elect members of those classes. 10. Limitation of titles. Of these, I think No. 6 impracticable and objection- aWe; 7 unjust and absurd ; 8 I don't see my way into ; TBTT'mmm 414 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 9 not only absurd, but socially most pernicious ; 10 I don't care much about. We neither of us care for the ballot, and I rather object to it, as not requisite in so wide a suffrage to protect the voter, and opening a door to trickery, as now it appears in France. I am not at all willing to wait the result of the French experiment because, first, I don't want to wait at all, but principally because France has nothing on earth to do with the matter. Suppose they utterly fail and sink under a military despotism, it could not alter my views in the least as to the best policy for England. I advocate the points mentioned above simply be- cause they are just and right in themselves, and most expedient in the present circumstances of the case. It is true, the continental movement exercises some in- fluence, since it makes us demand at once what else we should have been content to wait for, in the certain ex- pectation of getting it at last. We feel now, that other people have had their demands granted them, and why should not we ? This is all the eflfect the continent has, and does not in my opinion alter the nature of the de- mands a bit. However, our post is going. We move on Monday to Llanfyllin. — Ever yours, J. Beete Jukes. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 415 ernicious ; 10 I The following letter may here find a place. It was wiitten before physical geography had received the at- tention now given to it. Llangollen, Aug. 15, 1848. Mia Cara, — I am sorry to hear the Athenceum never arrived. I suppose the post in the vale of Llanyedwyn is just as badly managed as everything else. Had I known it earlier, I would have made a row about it, but now I cannot enjoy even that satisfaction. Aveline and I ran over to Liverpool on Saturday, to dine with my old friend Archer ; spent Sunday in Birkenhead and Ches- ter, going to the cathedral. I am glad to hear of the study arrangement, though when you are to finish Ali- son, at the rate of two hours a week, would require a long calculation to make out. You will find my maps of great use to you, and to arrive at any comprehensive notion of the relation of states and nations, the inter- course of commerce, and the art and science of war, you should make a frequent and thorough use of them. There wants, however, a few maps on a new plan — a set devoted to the physical geography of countries, instead of their political geography. For instance, a map of England, which, instead of being crossed and scribbled and confused by county boundaries and names and roads, should show the natural features of the country, its river-basins, and the hills or ridges which bound them. The principal basins of drainage are three : first, the 4x6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Severn ; secondly, the Thames ; thirdly, the Humber. To these may he added that of the Wash of Lincoln, the Solway Frith, that of the Mersey and Dee, and the watershed of the south coast of England. The ranges of high land are : first, the two parallel ranges of the chalk and the oolite, running from the south coast to the north-east — Dorset to York — of which one the chalk sends two spurs to the south-east, ending respectiyely at Dover and Beachy Head, fecoondly, the Pennine chain, running from Derhy to the Cheviots. Thirdly, the three knots or groups of hills of Cormvall and Devon, Wales, and the Lakes. Now each of these three have quite peculiar characters, differing from the other two in external features, in soil and mineral and agricul- tural productions, and in their inhahitants. The ways, manners, and customs of the people of Cornwall, Wales, and Cumherland more nearly resemble each other — not- withstanding the difference of race — than they do those of the carboniferous Pennine chain, or the agricultural ridges of the oolites and the chalk. The details of the features of the country determine the great routes across England, also nearly in the same directions, whether for purposes of war or commerce. The Romans made a great military road from Dover, by Daventry, to Tarn- worth, and thence to Chester and Shrewsbury; the moderns took first a great canal and then a line of rail- ways along exactly the same line of country, and in MILITARY POSITIONS. 417 many places they now run as close side by side as is possible. Were our island to be invaded again, the hostile camps, if the war were protracted, would be found posted nearly in the same spots as the old camps of the Romans, the Danes, and the battles of the Middle Ages and civil wars ; and this notwithstanding the changes in the art of war. To understand the plan of a cam- paign, and the reasons for it, you must comprehend the physical geography of the country, — more especially one of a great military genius, like Napoleon, who would seize at once on the great line of communication that penetrated the vitals of the land, and then work his de- tached parties and corps round that in such a way, that all the strong points should be at his command, and yet that no corps should ever have its communications with the rest intercepted, and be always ready to retreat or advance as was most beneficial not only for itself, but for the whole body to which it belonged. Thus managed, a large army becomes a great, wide-spread, flexible, and de- Hcate machine, obeying the intelligence of one man, and giving him, in the right of intellectual ability, a power that no amount or array of brute force, no mere multi- tude, however courageous, no mere wealth, however enor- mous, could attain to. I never read Alison, but from what I have seen and heard of his book, I should doubt whether he had sufficient of the stuff of which a general or a statesman is made, to set their reasons or movements EE 4i8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, before a reader. Arnold of Rugby, bad be not died, could have done it, as may be seen in bis imperfect History of Rome. Napier, in bis History of the Penin- sular War, does it admirably, but I do not recollect any otber bistory tbat even attempts it ; but tben I have ot read much. Historians bitberto bave attended principally to style and narration, and made pictures ratber tban represented facts. Almost all bistory wants re-writing. Nevertbeless, it is most useful to read what we bave. Tbere's a fragment of an essay for you, written as bard as pen can go, wbile we were waiting to see wbetber it meant to rain or not. We are now going out. By tbe bye, I tbink we sball not be very long at Llangollen : tbere is less to do tban I thought. Could you come before September if the weather is fine ? . Best love to mother and Alfred from your affection- ate brother, J. Beete Jukes. EETE Jukes. LETTERS TO PROFESSOR RiiMSAY. 1849, 1860. Written by Mr. Jukes (prior and subsequent to his marriage) from Dudley, Halesowen, Worcester, Harborne (near Birm- ingham), Walsall, Aber, Conway, Bala, Ffestiniog, Llangollen, and Rugeley, on the progress and details of the survey, and on geological questions arising in the course of his work. Dudley, Feb: 11, 1849. Dear Ramsay, — Thanks for your kind note received this morning. I liad a capital day yesterday with Black- well and Beckett, who had got hold of a cunning man in the fault line. They are sinking a very interesting pit in the new red sandstone near Westhromwich, of which I give you a section. It shows clearly that we have really a lower new red here conformable to, and graduating into, the coal measure. You may call it the top of the coal measures if you like, but it is red soft sandstone, with some red marl, and with nothing but new red above it. . . . In the red rock are many fragments of plants, fossil-trees apparently, with im- perfect markings — mere longitudinal striee, such as have been found in the higher parts of the new red in the Mand counties. Both the plants and the rock are precisely the same as those found by Sedgwick in the north under the mag. limestone, and between it and I I I I Hi ■ 420 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. the coal measures. Half a mile north of this place they have got thick coal at a depth of 980 feet, after passing through about 200 feet of new red, but I have not got the details exactly. There are some whacking faults, which must at present remain rather obscure, till the ground is more tried. About two miles south of this, on the up side of a fault, they have been sinking down in the Silurian shales, expecting to come to coal; and even the intelligent ground bailiff with us would hardly believe me when I said they were below the coal, and ap- proaching the Dudley limestone. I dine to-day with Lord Ward's agent, and hope to get access to his plans and sections this week. If I only had the people under c'ommand, I could complete the district in a month— as it is, I lost two whole days this last week dancing at- tendance at Lord Ward's office for nothing. The agent at last asked me to dinner with many apologies, and said he could then get time to have a quiet talk with me. I have written to Keeks to get me Logan's paper on under clays. I am nearly convinced it won't do in this district. The coals are well shown in several cut- tings now, but I can find no stigmariae underneath them, or at least no more than elsewhere. I believe the state of the case to have been this : stigmaria was a subaqueous plant for which clays (especially fire clay) was the best soil. Fire clay is also often the floor of a bed of coal (though there are many fire clays without COAL FORMATIONS AND SINKINGS. 421 coal, and some coals without fire-clay), because it is e/ident that coal was tranquilly deposited, and the clays also must have been so from their fine texture. The existence of clays, therefore, or other beds containing stigmarite always or frequently below coal, do not mili- tate against the drift origin of coal, or prove it to have been entirely formed peat-wise by plants growing in situ. All I contend against is the terrestrial or quasi- terrestrial formation of coal. If subaqueous, it may have all grown, for what I care. I think I had now better stop here, and take the folks while in the humour. Dudley, March 14, 1849. I have been down the Congreaves pit to-day, and bave got many interesting facts. . . . This district ought to have a resident surveyor (to take advantage of Ibe opportunities constantly turning up) with a large map, &c. William found marine shells in the ironstone while I was below, so they are spread over a much wider district than I at first thought. I sent Forbes word of our, or rather William's, finding a smashed echinus; we'll pack and send a lot up to-morrow. I went three-quarters of a mile in one gate road in thick coal to-day, rather a magnificent afi'air. There were one or two ' swells' of the floor also, in which the lower measures seemed to have been actually bent up into a I I m 422 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ridge before the thick coal deposit. They may, how- ever, have been formed thus over some ' ridge of depo- sition' below, without any actual movement having taken place. The mine was rather sulphury in some places, owing to the high wind ; however, we had no blow up. I've lost a good many days lately in hunting ground bailiffs — a species of sport not particularly exciting. Some were gone to London on law business ; some were in a state of fluency or catarrh ; some so busy that they could only be seen before seven o'clock in the morning, or after seven o'clock at night ; periods at which I have not yet summonoid up courage to go in quest of them. Dudley, March 17, 1849. I've read over carefully Hooker's papers, and also Sir Henry on his rocks of South Wales, the part relat- ing to coal, &c. ; and, sinner that I am, I'm not con- vinced, nor even shaken in my infidelity, as to the terrestrial growth of coal anyv-l e. lean see no evi- dence for the growth ther plant than sigillaria and stigm lently strong evi- dence to show tb was oi a subaqueous plant. Mere vague relations to L copodacese — a desert and arid-plain loving set of plants — in some pari ilar bits of structure, don't go far with me. How m; elations all ORIGIN OF COAL. 423 might not be established between fragments of a whale and an elephant ! My argument is this : you find in a great mass of stratified materials of vast thickness and many beds, all of which are clearly the result of the deposition in water of materials drifted from a dis- tance, certain beds of coal. These beds of coal alter- nate with, and are interlaced among, the other beds in every possible way — thickening and thinning out as they do ; sometimes many layers coming together, and forming a thick bed or set of beds ; iliosc same layers in other places separated by layers cf shale or sand, just as layers of sandstone or shale are separated by other layers in one place, and come together in another. The sole difi'ercnce in the method of occurrence between coal and other rocks being that it is of finer grain ; it is one of the extremes (coarse sandstone the other) in the scale of minuteness of division of the particles composing it ; therefore its consequent more wide and general distri- bution. Beds of coarse sandstone are most irregular and local and partial. Beds of fine sandstone less so ; sandy shale less ; argillaceous shale less ; carbonaceous shale less ; and coal most regular and widely spread. There is every gradation in mineral character, in method of deposition and stratification, &c., between a coarse quartzose sandstone and the finest cannel coal. Now to prove that they were not all formed by the same causes — i. e. were not all formed by the deposition of 424 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. sediment in water — requires, to my mind, an over- whelming amount of evidence, compared with which all I have seen, read, or heard, is hut a trifle. Indeed, to confess the truth, I am at a loss to imagine what possible evidence could he discovered. Direct seeming evidence — if such could he — of the terrestrial growth of coal in any one locality, instead of showing that all coal was so produced, would, to my mind, only remain as a puzzling exception, to he explained, perhaps, here- after. Indeed, I never hitherto much cared to examine such evidence as has heen given, hecause I have always looked upon the notion as one of those fashionable fancies which spring up sometimes ; and I have been waiting patiently for it to hlow over, •'•s Sydney Smith said. If I can give it a helping puff, however, so much the hotter. There are many special instances which are easy and ohvious to explanation on the drift theory, which the terrestrial growth and suhsidence dodge (it's like a legerdemain trick — hocus pocus conjurocus) renders very difficult to understand. Take, for instance, the two follovdng hits of sections, which are ahout half a mile from each other. Now, according to dodge afore- said, the thick coal subsided at Shut End ten feet, while half a mile off, it went down 130 more ; then came the flying reed coal at a level, and this time the Shut End part went down eighty-four feet, while the SOUTH STAFFORDSHIRE COAL-FIELD. 425 K. Swinford only descended twenty-nine, to make the level for tlie Herring coal. See-saw, Margery Daw ! I'm going to Birmingham to-night, to spend Sunday with Matthews, and have to mark in some faults, so farewell. I thought the question above sufficiently im- portant to devote two or three morning hours to its care- ful consideration.* Dudley, April 1, 1849. Dear Eamsay, — I have been considering the ques- tion of this coal-field quietly and impartially. I really, however, have no partiality about it, for I should be puzzled to say which I should prefer — finishing it by myself, or working with you in Snowdonia. I have, however, come to the conclusion that, as a matter of pul'mj for the survey, not only I should stay and work here this summer, but that more force should be put upon it, and either you yourself stay some time — which would be best — or Aveline come and help me to run sections. Mind you, in these times of economy, we shall be expected to exhibit some practical ivork, and, at all events, should be ready and prepared to show that we are working to some practical end. Now if we could * Note by Professor Ramsay. Mr. Jukes' matured views on the points discussed iu the preceding letters will be found in liis Memoir on the South Staffordshire Coal-Jield and in liis Manual. w 426 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. exhibit this at the meeting of the British Association in September, it would become a matter of pubHc no- toriety, and do much to give us a stability in public opinion. I could get Matthews and Blackwell tc speak in the section of the great want of a survey of this dis- trict, of its importance in a practical point of view, and several influential and moneyed and landed men to cry, 'Hear, hear!' Matthews has been speaking to Sir Henry about it, I find, and there is really beginning to be an anxiety cmong the coal- and iron-masters here to get our maps and sections of the district. A great lot of longi- tudinal sections, to exhibit together with the map, would be the thing. There need not be much of a paper, merely a few points stated, but with ' a wish to exhibit to the section the progress made in the survey of so import- ant,' &c. &c., 'hope to make out the relations of the new red sandstones to the CM. in adjoining parts,' &c. When we have done this and shown our intentions, we can then go on with North Wales, and knock it out of hand entirely with our whole force upon Snowdonia, &c. We want notoriety, and public standing as a public body; and it appears to me that this opportunity should not be lost of getting some of it, because we can get more of it here and more easily than at any other place wHere the Association is likely to meet in future. We should gain also more credit with the higher powers by such an exhibition than we should lose by our delay COMPLETE MAPPING OF THE DISTRICT. 427 in North Wales. The people here are very favourably disposed t6 us, and quite ready to make a public mani- festation in our favour. Now don't you think it is a matter of sufficient moment to make a push for, and could not you devote some part of the summer, if not the whole of it, to completing the district ? All the central and important part of the district is ready for sectionising. The mapping still wanting in this sheet could be done in a couple of weeks easily, and two more would enable one to complete the mere mapping of the whole coal-field. The longitudinal sections are the heaviest business now, but my pit sections will give plenty of data. We only want the shape of the ground. There wants one north and south section about twenty miles long, one ditto about ten miles, and about eight or ten east and west sections of eight to ten miles each. Country all pretty easy and often level. If we could get those done by September, we should have the materials for a simple and easily -constructed skeleton model, which I will explain to you when you come down. The more I think of it, the more does the good policy of the move on behalf of the survey appear to my mind. . . . When you can find leisure, please turn the above over in * that thing you call your mind.' I think we should be able to state three important practical points by this summer's work, viz. under one or two districts of new red, Silurian would probably be met with instead 428 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. of CM. In one untried district of CM., the place of the productive beds is over 200 yards deep, and the beds very poor. In other districts of new red, the thick coal and the productive measures would be certainly found at a depth varying from 350 to 550 yards, and would be worth working either now or in a very few years' time. It would make a difference in the market value of land of from 300Z. to lOOOZ. per acre. People would look upon us with some respect if they began to have a notion that we might have such a poT/er as that. By George, sir, it appears to me almost worth while to clap the whole disposable force of the survey on this district this summer, and just show them what we could do if we had the means. You and I, with Selwyn and Ave- line, could dig the extra grits of the coal-field out be- fore September. However, I remit it all to your judg- ment, and settle it all when you come. At the Shut End colliery they have a section across their property of forty feet to one inch. It looks very pretty, and makes one long to continue it. — Yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. In September of this year, Mr. Jukes married Georgina Augusta, the eldest daughter of Mr. John Meredith of Harborne, near Birmingham. As may be readily supposed, the engagement and marriage caused some diminution in the length and frequency of his WORCESTERSHIRE— CLENT HILLS. 429 correspondence with his friend, and only a few hasty letters were written during the summer, from which the following are extracts. In July, the position of geolo- gical surveyor to the colony of New South Wales was offered to him ; but he was somewhat unwilling to accept it, and preferred to remain in England, if the authorities would consent to raise his salary to the not very munificent sum of 300Z., being half that offered by the colonial government. This addition was conceded, and he continued his work in North Wales and Stafford- shire until his appointment to the Irish directorship at the end of 1850. Dear Ramsiy Halesowen, June 21, 1849. ... I have contrived through all to do good work (if the pole dodge turn out well), having run a long section over the Clent Hills nearly up to Dudley, and shall bring it up to the castle to-morrow. The people are excessively civil about our going through grass and corn. Halesoiicn, June 20. I have three of yours to acknowledge — a circum- stance most unexampled in our correspondence, but then circumstances alter cases ; however, I must now take up the dative, or you'll be using the vocative and accusative cases. Havibg proved that I can work at 430 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m Harborne, I shall have the better heart in undertaking to draw sections there, especially as I can have a work- room all to myself, and work from seven to one o'clock (with one hour for breakfast), and sundry half hours at other times in the afternoon or evening. I went up to Harborne on Friday to dinner, and in the evening I turned to at the I igarithms. To my de- light and surprise, Gus, who professed herself more stupid at figures than anything else, learnt in about five minutes how to look out logarithmic series, and with her assistance I got on swimmingly ; so rapidly, indeed, that we set to work again at seven o'clock on Monday morning, and by half-past twelve o'clock had filled several sheets of calculations that I find most useful. She had each quantity ready for me when I wanted it, and once or twice corrected my mistakes when I got puzzle-headed. I did more by that time than I should in the whole day by myself. I have a better opinion of the pole dodge now, as I find a minute's error does not make much difference till we get to angles less than 1°; at 1° an error of 1' makes only an error of twenty-one and a half links. . . • Old Gov.'s foot improves, but I think he had better take up permanent quarters at my sister's when they have discharged Forester. I knocked up William to-day, so that he said he never was so tired — the first time on the survey, I think, but it was wernj warm. LOGARITHMS AND VERSES. 431 Jnly 2. hi re verses. I am rather fond of changes of rhythm, but I daresay I introduce them too abruptly and pro- fusely. I should be much obliged, when you have time to bestow on trifles, for any criticisms on my produc- tions, as they may as well be done as well as I can. Be as carping and as savage as you like. I have just written them out again and can't discover the change of measure you talk of, except in the rhythm of the second line of the third, and the fourth of the fourth verse, but these were designed. The lengthening pause on cer- tain syllables occurs often as a beauty in good writers. They might all be sung to the same tune without vio- lence to the words, I think. . . . I've just written to Sir Henry and Forbes, and told them I'm going to be spliced. Halesowen, July 10. I of course mean to complete the mapping of all this quarter-sheet ; my only doubt was whether I could run and finish three or four more sections across that country. I think now of drawing these sections in outline, only then enlarging them on cartridge paper to three or four times the scale roughly, and colouring them for exhibition. Your bad weather surprises me. It has been a succession of the most exquisite weather ■iMMwiM 432 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. here, and how lovely Harhorne is, I feel most painfiillv now I am clown here and alone. However, duty! duty! duty ! llfi Worcester, July something. I was brought here yesterday by a subpoena, and kept in court to no purpose all afternoon. However, the trial comes on this morning the first thing, so I hope to get back to Halesowen to-night. I got yours on Sunday. As to sonnets, I have read all Shake- speare's of course, Wordsworth's, Shelley's, Coleridge's, and some of Keats', besides Milton's and lots of others, but never yet saw one I could take any delight in. They never seem to me to be spontaneous, but always something artificial — exercises, toys ; things done merely to try if one can do them ; poetical puzzles or tricks, like a man dancing on eggs. I don't deny but that there may be fine sonnets, but then it is in spite of the measure, and one always feels inclined to split them up, to cut the laces of their stays and let them go free. I know I shall have a tough job of it to get ready for the Association, and begin almost to despair at times. However, I'll do as much as I can. I always looked forward to having to enlarge not only the sec- tions done and many more, but also to making an en- larged map so as to show the faults, &:c. What I SURVEYORSHIP OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 433 wished to see done was a complete inspection of the whole coal-field, as it were, for the whole section. (The Geological Section at the British Association meeting.) That is, of course, now impossible. Our maps are only useful for some of the knowing ones to look at after- wards, and the sections won't be visible unless enlarged ten times ; however, we must do what we can, not what we would. Halesowen, July 19. I yesterday came from Worcester ; read Sir Henry's note, wrote to Augusta about it, and then started off and finished the Clent Hills, and did not return till 10 P.M. ... As to the New South Wales business, all my notion is that 600?. per annum is very tempting, and the work would be very pleasant. There are, however, many reasons against it : such as uncertainty of co- lonial aifairs, its leading to nothing beyond, want of maps and proper assistance ; but the great thing is Augusta's health. Could she stand the voyage and the cHmate ? I can come to no decision till I see them. I should be most reluctant to leave you and the survey, find if I were not going to be married, I don't think 600Z. per annum would induce me to do it ; but you see it seems Hke the very thing I was sighing for, dropping at i^y feet. However, I must discuss it with Augusta pp 434 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. and her mamma before I form my own decision. I should be very glad, indeed, to have your full and free opinion. Let me have it by Sunday at Harborne. Harhorne, July 22. I have been waiting for yours (received this morn- ing) as a help to making up my mind. It coincides, as far as it goes, with my own notions. I have, however, just written to Sir H. to say that I have not actually decided, telling him exactly our state and condition here, and telling him also that 300L per annum on our survey would at once decide me to remain. I have not asked him directly to give me 300Z., but simply told him that the feeling in my mind is, that with 300Z. on our survey I should at once reject the Australian, even with lOOOL, and that if he felt authorised or justified in offering it to me, the thing is settled ; but if my pay is to remain at 200L, then I must take the Australian plan into consideration. Mrs. Meredith leaves the matter entirely in my hands ; Augusta hopes we shall not have to go, but if I say we must, she will pack up without a word. ... I feel sure that prospects are brightening for all of us, and that practical geologists are * looking up.' SECTIONS AND MAPPING. 435 Ilarhorne, July 25, 1849. I get Up at half-past five every morning, work from six to half-past eight, and from half-past nine to half- past one, by which means I have already drawn out the outline of all the sections but one. That I shall do to- morrow, and it will not then take me long to fill them up. I have not got any more sections north of Dudley, but if I finish these in time, and the Walsall mapping, I should like to run one or two over there, noua vcrrons. I have not heard again from Sir Henry, but wrote him yesterday a kind of penitential note, explaining my for- mer one, and doing away with any bad imprei?sion it might have caused. I finished by saying that I almost entirely gave myself up into your and his hands to do with me as you would. The sections come out very fairly. There is a slight discrepancy in the lengths sometimes, but not to any serious amount. In one it amounted to about 0*1 of a mile in eight miles, as compared with the map; in another the length was slightly in excess, which is all right. The heights of known points come out very nearly, which is the great test. ... I have been writing this at eleven at night, after they are all gone to bed ; and as I have now been np eighteen and a half hours, I shall turn in. I should, or ought, to thank you for your good wishes and exertions in my favour as to the future, but between us there is no need oi phrases. 436 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Harhnrne, July 2S. I havo heard again from Sir Henry. He was not at all offended at my application, but with his usual caution says increase of salary depends on others, does not know whether the money will allow it, &c. He has heard no more of the Australian affair, and does not know whether it will he necessary or not to hear again from the colony before the appointment takes place. So now it is in abeyance, but I have almost entirely given up the idea of accepting it. Wliat made me write about lodgings was this — that I had to wait about two months for lodgings at Bettws-y-Coed the year before last. Llanrwst would do very well, but there are no lodgings to be had there. For a poking room leading out of a kitchen, which you had to cross to go upstairs, tliey asked me thirty shillings per week, and it was the best room that was ever let out in the town. Selwyn asks me if I have any work he can do for me while he is laid up, so I think of sending him down the sections to enlarge. Walsall, Sept. 1. I've just heard from Selwyn that he can't finish the sections. I have not an hour to spare even to show any one how to do them, and hardly know how I sh'ill get time to write my papers for the British Association. What a relief it will be to cut off with Augusta into BRITISH ASSOCIATION— MARRIAGE. 437 Wales ! I've stuck stoutly at it this week, aud am go- ing to meet a baillie this afteruoon at Darlaston. I'm iu a horrid funk about your success in the lodging de- partment. Indeed, I have no hopes of Aber at all, and expect we shall have to go to Bangor or Conway, or that miserable spot Llanrwst. Hotels are out of the question. Bettws-y-Coed is out of the way of the work. Harhornc, ISept. 2. Thanks, my dear fellow, for your exertions in our behalf, of the successful issue of which I was delighted to hear this morning. Augusta desires her especial thanks also, and is quite charmed with the idea of her future residence. . . . The British Association met in Birmingham iu Sep- tember, Mr. Jukes acting as one of the local secretaries to the geological section. Shortly after the meeting, bis marriage was celebrated at Harborne, from whence be and his wife departed for North Wales ; but ere many weeks had passed, he was summoned to the death- bed of his mother. After an illness of ten years, she expired peacefully at the house of her son-in-law, at Penn Fields, near Wolverhampton, and was interred at Bushhury (a few miles from the same town), where her busband and two daughters had been laid before her. Xear to this village Mr. Jukes had inherited a small 438 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. property — part of an estate that had belonged to his great-grandfather, Mr. Mansfield of Bushbury-hill. Dear Ramsay, ^*^'-. ^^'^- 2^. 1849. ... By the v/ay, I have been thinking of firing-off a letter to the Daily News on the Woods and Forests, with a suggestion for remodelling that department and dividing it into two — No. 1, the surface department, or whatever you like to call it; No. 2, the mines and mine- rals department — and giving up to us the control of the latter — of course, us on a greatly-enlarged scale ; so that we should have not only the geological survey, but the entire management of all mines and minerals held from the crown, with a geological lawyer and a staff of clerks and financiers, treasurers, or whatever you may like to call them. Oflicers, perhaps, to be paid partly by salary, partly by a percentage on '.he revenue they 'aise and hand over to the state. This, with a school of mines, would indeed put us on a good permanent footing, and be a great saving to the nation, as well as a vast benefit. It is a raw hint; tell me what you think of it. and let us see if we cannot concoct a scheme. When will you come and see us ? We've brought down Toby, who seems to approve of Wales very much. — Wife's kind regards, and those of yours ever, J. Beete Jukes. CARADOC AND 'PALE SLATES.' 439 ^EETE Jukes. Merchlyn, Conway, March 21,1850. My dear Ramsay, — Yours of the 19tb received yes- terday, but no maps made their appearance yet. I will take care about "William, and get him some wine. I sent to Bangor for some the other day, and if it turn out good, he shall go by the rail and get three bottles more of the same sort. Aveline and I had a grand day on Monday at those bothering rocks. He says they are like the Bishop's Castle ones, and that you decided they were ash with showered crystals of feldspar. There is p. .mall district up there in which there io a different rock every five yards ; I must indicate them somehow. One of the rocks represents, I believe, the Bala lime- stone; it is equally calcaieous, and there are fossils in the slates in good quantity about it. It occurs in two places, with a big mass of injected greenstone interven- ing, the slates near the greenstone converted into horn- stone still retaining in some places the casts of fossils (I think). These last two days we have devoted to fin- ishing the Caradoc. It runs right up to the top of the hill south of Conway Castle, and there jumps up into the air and finishes as usual, nobody knowing what has become of the end of it. One thing is very remarkable, that, just under it, we get the ' pale slates' all along here. ' Now these pale slates always occur at the top * Notes by Professor Ramsay. These ' pale slates' have since been shown to belong to the upper Silurian strata, and have been lii hi 440 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. of the Bala, wherever that is seen in all the Bala and Cerrig -y - Druidion country, and in all the Llangollen country, being overlaid in one case by Caradocs, and in others by Wenlock shales. They are therefore truly part of the Bala beds, and their appearance at the junc- tion of the Bala and Caradoc, all the way from Bala to Conway shows that in all that country there is a gene- ral conformability of Caradoc on Bala, and that the faulty-looking places where the pale slates are not seen are really fiiults, and not overlaps. All hereabouts the Caradoc* is quite conformable to the lower beds, which are black slates just below the pale, and gray slates just below the black. Conway Castle stands nearly on the very top of the Bala beds, somewhere about where the Hirnant limestone f ought to be. This is unexpected— to me, at all events. The nearest trap to the Caradoc hereabouts is exactly like the nearest trap to it in thfi called Tarannon shale. They were afterwards remapped by Mr. Aveline, who first showed their true stratigi-apliical relations, when Sir R. Miirchisou became Director-General after th< ''iadi of Sir H. de la Beche. * This so-called Caradoc sandstone was afterwards proved to belong to tlie Wenlrck series, and consists of the DeubigLshire flags of Professor Sedgwick. The supposed conformity is de- ceptive and accidental. f The beds mention'^d at Conway are now beheved to be the equivalents of the Bala limestone. Mr. Jukes himself came to this conclusion. ROCK COMPLICATIONS. 441 the Bala and Bettws-y-Coedcountr}',butthe calcareous beds here are, I think, below that a good way. Another curious thing is, that if there be conformability from Caradoc to purple slates, the thickness will be greatly less than we sup- posed about Bala, as here, notwithstanding many un- dulations and very much trap, the distance across the strike is not more than ten miles, while about Bala it must be twenty. Concerning the finishing of this district, it will not be done quite so soon as I expected, as there seem more elements of botheration than I thought for. To-morrow, however, we start for the far country to the south, which I hope will be finished on Monday, and then all the ground is within easy distance, and unless it turn very crinkly, tl e rocks must yield their souls up shortly. My wife thanks you for your note, and will write shortly. Aveline will write when he has finished the dry proof of Denbighshire. He wants to know whether he is to put in the dry proof the boundary of the * upper flag beds.' — Yours in the body and the spirit, J. Beete Jukes. ill Merchhjn, April 2, 1850. Dear Ramsay, — Aveline and I finished yesterday all that was essential for us to do together, although an- other day would perhaps be beneficial. I made up my 442 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. M!! Wt mind yesterday about those rocks I spoke of before; they are certaiuly aqueous and stratified, although half formed of slightly worn crystals of feldspar. I saw a block yesterday as big as a cottage, with angular lumps of slate and pieces of all sorts of rocks. It is just au old submarine -volcanic conglomerate. I saw in Tene- riflfe this section [section given]. Nov/ these were clearly deposited beneath the sea in the neighbourhood of the old volcano, and since uplifted. If they were baked hard, they would be just our sandstone. But there is nothing to show that they synchronised with any erup- tion or protrusion of igneous matter ; on the contrary, they probably marked a period of repose in the igneous forces, when the aqueous ones resumed their sway, and acted on the old igneous rocks. It is therefore hardly right to give them an igneous colour. I acknowledge, however, the great difficulty of neatly separating these rocks here from the greenstone porphyries with which they are often surrounded. Put that in your pipe and smoke it ! 0,1 forgot you had given up smoking ; for the seventh time, I believe ! Bala, June 1, 1850. Wet weather has kept me in two days, and it raineth villanously. I've got the map, and am going to set to work at it. Shall I send it to you, or had I not better SIX-INCH V. ONE-INCH MAPS. 443 send it to Aveline, for his work and dips to be put on it? I want his opinion on one or two points rather. Six fine days will enable me to take the section to the ridge beyond Penmachno, where my knowledge ends; but I want to know exactly where you mean to carry it on there, in order that I may bend it accordingly. I've brought it across the lake, and measured a base for the width of the same, as I cross it obliquely. Comes out very satisfactorily. Pen-y-boncyn where I begin is just 1600 feet above the lake. Ought I not to get a boat and take soundings across the lake, in order to get the shape of the bottom ? I could do it some quiet evening, only I may have to buy line. Bala, June 9. ... So they are making a row in town, eh ? All the better perhaps ; but I hope Sir Henry will take a high stand at once — say it is impossible to work by the square mile, and that if the survey is not to be done thoroughly, carefully, and deliberately, it had better not be done at all, and that we'll all strike work rather than be respon- sible for defective work. Send Lord Seymour down to examine us a bit ; and let him come and do a week's work. 444 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. '^ Ffestiniog, June 30. On Tuesday, having had a most sweltering day on Monday, I set out in a car with my bag and baggage, the ladies on horseback, for Yspytty Efan. Having proceeded to a point where I had sent on some men, I descended and became no longer * car-borne,' and we proceeded by a wildish mountain-path under Carnetld Filiast and Gylchedd, forming quite a winding array up the valleys of horsewomen and footmen, and dogs and carpet-bags and instruments. Arrived at the Brolch, the ladies and the baggage descended to Yspytty, while the surveying department climbed Gylchedd at a vast ex- pense of breath and sweat, and continued the section down to the Conway, getting down to dinner at 3 o'clock nearly. The next day we ran it over to the Machno ; and here I carried on my straight line a good deal farther than it was marked previously, and then diverged at a right-angle in order to cut a place where the lime- stone is well shgwn, reposing on trap, and thus prepare people's minds for the limestone trap of Snowdon, &c. Next day breakfast at 7 o'clock, over to Penmachno, and run the section across the ridge down to Dolwydd- elan. Now I had had neither of your letters, but I took it at a venture in a straight line across the ashy beds down to a house in the flat, called by the natives thereof Ty-isaf. I left the section on the doorstep of that house, which looketh to the south-east ; but your worship will RUNNING SECTIONS. 445 doubtless be able to extract liim up the chimney by a loug shot across the valley. The ladies this day set out on horseback, accompanied by a car, to bring us way- farers home. ... I think I can certainly finish the line going west of Cerrig-y-Druidion, of which more than half is clone, and the part of No. 6 between Caeran Crwyni and the Arenig top, and perhaps the part of No. 4 be- tween Llandrillo and Pentre Foelas before the end of July. Then, if we return by August 14, I believe I could complete the remainder by the end of September up to Llangollen. After this, I suppose it would be necessary that I should go and complete the South Staffordshire coal-field. Anything you order of course I shall go and do, though that is superfluous to say. How do you get on with your men now ? Selwyn had to chain up the Aran himself, leading the chain, and then coming down for the theodolite. His men, however, seem to do very fairly, and I think could keep a good reckoning if each liad a book. ... I shall have to work the cars a little bit about Bala to get to the ends of mv lines ; but time is money, and we must use one or the other. Bala, July 8, 1850. I have this morning sent off to Selwyn two tables : one of them the oblique section table, which I am very glad I have had the perseverance to go on with, as I 446 BETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. W; i! think it will be very useful. The results are exceedingly curious in some respects, and not what I should have previously expected. For instance, in crossing a dip, or any other inclined plain, obliquely, until the vertical plane of the section crosses the vertical plane of the dip, &c., at a greater angle than 30°, the diminution of the angle in the section will not be greater than about one- eleventh of the angle of dip. For instance, a dip of 45° crossed at an angle of 30° becomes 40° 55' ; when crossed at 45° it becomes 35° 9' ; and it is not till the angle of crossing becomes greater than 50° that it diminishes very rapidly. Now, your honour, these tables and others. I think it is a pity they should be lost, wLich in all probability they will be, if left in MS. What think you of getting a lot of tables useful in geological surveying, and publishing them in the next volume of the * Memoirs' ? We could then have a hundred copies or so struck off for our own private and particular uses, for each of us to paste into our note-books, &c. By the bye, concerning the chain-man. He is a very decent old fellow, but very poor. Now, we only had one day's work for him last week. Notwithstanding, he was at my beck and call, and therefore could not accept any other permanent engagement, every day= Half-a-crown for this was so little that I gave him five shiUings. Ought we not to allow some sort of retaining-fee under such circumstances ? PROPOSED NEW BOOK. 447 My wife wants to know about William : how he will be supported if his pay ceases — I think it would be a great shame it should cease — but she wants to know whether we should not all subscribe to send him some- thing. I shall be most happy to do so. The best way will be to draw up a subscription-list, and send it round to all those he has worked for, would it not ? . . . Bala, July 14. . . . Father Adam is to be at Edinburgh. I heard from him the other day. He says he's got a book com- ing out about * geology, psychology, theology, Deism, Atheism, Pantheism, procreation, transmutation, par- thenogenesis, academic training, Popery, and tomfoolery.' I long to see it. I hope he will speak out his whole mind — come out somewhat in the Carlyle style, and drive a good broad harpoon deep into the sweltering sides of the floating carcass of Humbug. I am begin- ning to feel savage with the world in general. Here's the mail come in ; the bags pass down the street under one's nose, containing all our letters and papers, &c., find yet they are to lie in the post-office till 8 o'clock to- morrow morning. Llangollen, Sept. 22. I am anxious to know when I shall be likely to be wanted in Ireland ; and indeed you must try and ascer- 448 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. tain for survey reasons, because it appears probable to my mind — maturely meditating on these matters during matutinal hours — that instead of going to Wem, I ought to proceed at once to Rugeley, and knock off all the northern end of the South Staffordshire coal-field, and thus make sure of finishing that district, at all events. Any one could do Wem, but no one could do Staffordshire so well as me, because they would have to get up my back-work. This is our wedding-day. "We are celebrating it alone in our hearts, but our friends may keep it with as noisy a festivity as they like. W If i Llangollen, Oct. 8, 1R50. I have now finished my Welsh work in the field, but shall protract the last two sections, and overhaul the whole before I start for Staffordshire, which will keep me till Monday next. Mr. T. of Pool Park is a capital fellow. He took me a deuce of a tramp through a lot of wet woods, to verify Aveline's work as to a narrow band of old red below the mountain limestone there ; and was much pleased when I found it for him in the bed of a brook and in the bank of a Line. We got out a rustic with a spade to dig for red sandstone rock, who had never heard of such a thing thereabouts, and was much surprised when the first stroke of his spade showed it him. He is greatly interested, as an estate-agent, in NORTH STAFFORDSHIRE. 449 tk question of the boundary of the coal-field about Ruge- ley, and says that all the landowners there are anxious on the point. He has written to several agents, &c. to give me information when I arrive there ; so I expect I shall get on swimmingly. Concerning the Irish matter,* I have got a temper- ately-expressed, but very strong, testimonial from Sedg- wick, of which I am going to send Oldham a copy ; and I am going to send notes to all those who I think will come forward on my behalf. Among others, I must of com'se look to you for one, if you have no objection to write me out a formal document. ... I think it very likely that Howell would be very useful in South Staf- fordshire ; he could, at all events, hunt for calcareous beds in the Young Red.f I will let you know soon after I get there. Dear Ramsay, Rugehy, Oct. 28. I've just returned from an expedition to the north, into the middle of 72 S.E. sheet, and I have found a great sprawl of lias in the middle of Staffordshire, be- tween Rugeley, Uttoxeter, and Tutbury, where nobody ever dreamed of such a thing before. The other day at dinner at Mr. Landor's, T. Turnor asked me about some beds above the red marls, which he said were * This relates to an application for the Chair of Geology, Trinity College, DubUn. t This Young Red is now Imown to be Permean. A. C. R. GG IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / O {./ ''/ ^ /A f ^ M < ^.M K, ////// V, 1.0 I.I 1.25 12.5 Jf IIIIM ^ %i 1.4 12.0 1.8 1.6 ^ <^ /M "^ e ^A >. ■■'•>. S' ^W c>^ '%4* "-K %/^ Qy^ m Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ iV A \ ^\^ ^ \ '^6^ ;v >A ^ %^.s:^^ % -b^^ ci7 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 rv % %^ L6> ^ i 4SO LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. blue and black shale, with sandstone bands and iron- stone balls. ' Why,' I said, * that must be Lias I' * Well,' he said, * Pickering (a mine agent) has written to me to say he thinks so too, but wants me to get your unbiassed opinion on the point.' So to-day we drove over toge- ther, taking Hull and Howell, and Lias sure enough it is. All over the high ground of Needwood Forest there's a capping of twenty-five, thirty, or forty feet thick of the lower Lias, with bands of excellent lime- stone, like the celebrated Barrow-on-Soar limestone. I only found some obscarti marks of shells, which I shall send to Forbes to-morrow. I saw it at two places a mile apart ; and according to Tumor's account, it must form a capping on the high ground there four or five miles long, by two or three wide.* Now what shall I do with it ? I half think that sheet had better be knocked oflf out of hand. If any part of the Ashby coal-field comes into it S.E. of Burton-on-Trent, it must be a very leeth piece indeed ; but I could cut down there some day and see ; all the rest would be red marls and gypsum, with lias in the centre and portions of red- sandstone on the N. and S. borders. Hull goes to- morrow to Colwich, a very pleasant place between here and Stafford, on the edge of the red marls, whence lie can work a large part of that sheet very conveniently. * Note by Professor Ramsay. These are now known as the lUietic beds, and lie at the base of the Lias. THE CLENT HILLS. 451 I heard from Oldham on Saturday. He says he shall certainly give up the survey, so I must go to Ire- land anyhow. Rugeley, Nov. 1, 1850. My doing that Lias is out of the question. I shall barely be able to finish the Staffordshire coal-field alone, and certainly not able to draw any of the sections. If I can run them and sketch them, I shall be well ofi*. I shall sectionise this end before leaving here ; but there is a broad track between Cannock and Walsall un- touched yet, and there are several knotty points in the field to the S. about Westbromwich and other places, besides tracing the cross of the beds above the thick coal all over the field. . . . Brereton, Rugeley, Nov. 15. ... I hardly lost a day at Stourbridge, as I fettled a point about the Clent Hills, and did good work both going and coming back. I've just sent a sort of report ou the waterworks question. The surveyor proposes to sink through the New Red and CM. near Hagley obe- lisk till he comes to a water-bearing strai:um, and then drive out right and I*^ft, and tap the trap rocks of the Clent Hills ; pump up the water into a reservoir, and tlien distribute over low district, I've called it an ex- 452 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Ill periment, but one worth trying, as likely to give water of good quality at a high level. I'm going to steal a day to-morrow to shoot. The Marquis of Anglesea is out, and I'm going to breakfast with his physician at Beaudesert, and go out on to the Chase with him after- wards. Blackwood got mo the leave through Lord Clarence Paget. Bugeley, Nov. 17. It WP;S such a wretched day yesterday that I shot nothing. Heaps of game, hut as wild as hawks. Old- ham says, ' At last I think I may say that I go to India certainly.' He wants to he relieved at the end of this month, and wishes me to go over then, or before if I can. Now I commence sectionising to-morrow, and finish on Wednesday ; on Thursday I have an appoint- ment with a cunning old ground bailiff, who can en- lighten me on obscure points ; then if I can get a few days' horseback work between here and Walsall, I shall have finished all the essential parts of this coal-field. There will then be two sections to be run, and a few little points of detail to be settled, and the thing is done ; perhaps one more section, but it is not very ne- cessary. Hull is doing excellent work in his district. He has got another fault downthrow to W., which, with the one he had before, shows an elevated tract of lower red sandstone running from this coal-field towards that IRISH APPOINTMENT. 453 of North Staffordshire, bounded by downthrow faults, just as the coal-fields are bounded by downthrow faults ; so that though the faults are not continuous, there is an indication of the same movement in the same general direction. I believe Selwyn will find similar facts to the S., in the Droitwich sheet. Eugeley, Nov. 20, 1850. I have this morning had my official appointment for Ireland. I must be there on the 30th. Now I can leave here some time on Thursday, and have a talk with you on Friday at Holyhead. ... I have asked Sir Henry to let me come back into Staffordshire for a week to pick up scattered threads, and then go to London to see him and arrange about our Welsh sections, &c. I have had two wet days' sectionising, but to-day was too bad. I think Howell safe for the Lias ; there's no marl stoiifc, only the Lower Lias limestone beds, like Bariow- ou-Soar. ... By the way, ought there not to be a coloured copy of as much of our map as is finished in the Great Exhibition ? Seriously, I think there ought ; one copy mounted, and another table of sheets under it. I'm sick of writing. 454 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Rugeley, Nov. 23, 1850. ... I shall be in Holyliead on Thursday evening by express train. I had a very kind letter and testimonial from Sir Koderick this morning ; ditto from Darwin. . . Have you any extra- sharp razors ? I am to borrow one of yours to shave with at Holyhead. I think we must have a solemn feast on the occasion, and oJBfer up my beard as a sacrifice to the Infernal Deities, to propitiate their favour — making due libation of wine, and all things in order.* * Note Jnj Professor Ramsay. Jukes came to Holyhead on the 30th, just before dinner. Lelwyn and I were at the hotel. Jukes was well bearded, but hesitated about shaving. However, we insisted that his beard would injure his prospects of getting the Chair of Geology at Trinity College, and next morning I lent him my razor. He appeared at breakfast amidst great laughter, and tlie waiters thought he was a stranger. i GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. lEISH SURVEY. 1861-1869. GEOLOGICAL SUKVEY OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. IRISH SURVEY. 1851-1855. .Vcceptance of the directorsliip a turning-point in Mr. Jukes' life —Official worry — Sense of order and duty — Letters to Pro- fessor Ramsay from Dublin, Dungarven, !Monkstown, Cork, London, Macroom, and Rathdrum, in regard to the worldng ofthe survey, structure of the Irish rocks, and other geological questions — Experiences and views of Ireland and the Irish — ■ Geological science as applied to mining — Presidency of the Geological Society of Dublin — Red tape — Letters to Ms sis- ter — Full work and scanty rest — Journey to Auvergne. Mr. Jukes' acceptance of the directorsliip of the Irish survey seems to have heen a turning-point in his life, unfavourable in the end to mental ease and bodily liealth. His letters after this time assume a different tone ; the light-heartedness which could laugh at diffi- culties gradually fades away. He shows the heavy sense of responsibility, and the bodily tc'l and mental anxiety begin to tell upon his health and spirits. These letters, now read by the sad light of after years, show mSHM i 1 4S8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. this to have been the case long ere his friends were aware of it. In one of them he speaks of the cHmate as depressing, and though the proximity of Ireland to the * melancholy ocean,' of which we have lately heard so much, might from the consequent dampness have had some lowering effect, yet the greater humidity of Newfoundland had failed to elicit from him any com- plaint. But far more than from anything outward or climatic was he oppressed by the causes indicated in the following painful words, which were written to a friend a few years later : ' It is this perpetual strife and atmosphere of contention in which one is obliged to live here that, fight against it as one will, laugh at it and bear up against it with good humour and courage in public as one may, yet, from the perpetual strain upon one's nerves and the gradual sap of one's heart and spirits, ultimately breaks one down.' Many minor cares, which he would formerly have easily thrown off, now began to fret and annoy bim. Among these was his inability to carry out his own ideas of orderly arrangement with respect to the survey and the maps and specimens connected with it. Those who possess this faculty can fully understand how ha- rassing it is to be thwarted in attempts to institute a perfect system, whether in the classification of a mu- seum, the work of a survey, or the arrangement of a library. To many persons this is a * missing sense,' INTRODUCTORY NOTES. 459 and they cannot in any degree sympathise with the feelings of those who aro worried and wearied by vain efforts to get or keep things straight. Mr. Jukes pos- sessed this sense of order. Not that ho was particu- larly neat — in fact, he was rather careless than other- wise in outside matters — but the order was of a deep- seated nature, and denoted among other things that ho liked to lay his hand on every book or paper he pos- sessed in an instant ; that he wished to have every spe- cimen in the museum so classified that it could be at once referred to, every map and document in its right place. The writer of these words well remembers the pain she felt, when visiting him in Dublin, at seeing his annoyance on the receipt of some mandate from South Kensington to * turn out the Geological Museum into the streets,' as he expressed it. Well might even this slight irritation impress her in one whom she had al- ways known as so remarkable for placability and even- ness of disposition, that she could say with truth she never remembered his being in younger days what is commonly called ' out of temper.' It seemed, as he says in a letter to Professor Ram- say, * as if life had lost its charm, and only duty re- mained' — duty, that word so full of power and meaning, which in the life of an Englishman seems to occupy the place of la gloire in that of a Frenchman. Both 460 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ideas may lead on to noble deeds and acts of self-sacri- fice ; bu> luty needs no stimulus from admiring specta- tors, being content with the quiet approving voice of conscience, and trusting to the 'perfect witness' of Him who is * greater than our hearts,' and who * pronounces lastly on each deed.' The following letters will be found to confirm these observations. Dublin, March 3, 1851. My dear Ramsay, — I finished my book of calcula- tions on Saturday. ... I can by no means agree with you about the O.K. north of Llangollen. By ' thinning out' I did not mean overlap, but thinning out to no- thing, and I do believe that where I cross the O.K. in my section is its very thinnest part in all North Wales. Take a pair of compasses with an opening of two or three miles, and put one leg on Ty-u-chaf, and with the other you will describe the boundary of the O.R. under the M.L.,* i. e. beyond that space there is no O.R. under the M.L., which rests directly on the Silu- rians. It is a mere patch of O.R., which in the north of England (that is, north of Shropshire) is nowhere a continuous formation, but a mere thing of shreds and patches, little spots of sand and gravel accumulated here and there in hollows of the other rocks. I go the full extent of saying there is none and never was any. * Maguesian Limestone. KES. NECESSITY FOR SIX-INCH MAPS. 461 ts of self-sacri- imiring specta- roving voice of ^vitness' of Him ho * pronounces letters will be March 3, 1851. book of calcula- leans agree witli . By ' thinning niug out to no- L-oss tlie O.K. in ill North Wales, leuing of two or -chaf, and with ary of the O.R. lace there is uo tly on the Silu- licli in the north ■e) is nowhere a ,(T of shreds and el accumulated •ocks. I go the never was any. You cannot speak of it as its * outcrop ;' it is not an it. If we could see deep enough, the section might cut into another patch of it, but of that we can know nothing. Now for another subject. Sir H. more than hinted when I was in London at our giving up the six-inch map here, and taking to work on those footy little county maps of half or quarter of an inch to the mile he has now revived, and, in fact, ordered me to do so. At first I thought of at once resigning the appoint- ment ; on consideration, however, I perceive that would be a foolish and also a cowardly way of acting. The interests of the survey hera being committed to my charge, I am bound to stick by it and fight for it to the last. Sir H., therefore, gets a letter from me this morning, telling him the six-inch map was one of my greatest inducements to come here ; that I was dis- gusted and disappointed when I found they were not published geologically, and that I am resolved not to rest till they are so published ; that before long you in England will have the six-inch maps to deal with, and that of course you will publish them ; that at all events then, if not before, we shall publish them in Ireland ; that I am prepared to show to his satisfaction, or any other reasonable person's, that the six-inch map is the smallest scale on which good geological work can be done, and ' that my geological existence here depends upon it ; take that away, and I have neither interest in ^■■1 ''Hi li 462 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. nor capacity for the work.' I clos'^ with a hope that he will continue to get us the six-inch maps to work on as hefore. Taking a strictly * service' view of the matter, I can show the absurdity of paying 1500L per annum out of the public purse for merely a slightly-amended edition of Griffiths' map. The real question is the amount of detail and accuracy of work. I heard from Hooker the other day. His letter did me good ; it smacked of the sea. Dungarven, June 14, 1851. My dear Ramsay, — I am very sorry I have grown so matter-of-fact. I can hardly tell you why it is, but I feel that it is so. I hardly know whether it is the air of Ireland, or the nature of the .work here, or what ; but certainly much of the zest of life has departed, and no- thing but duty and business remain. ... As to age of valleys, my work in those days (having no ordnance maps) went in the old style, somewhere near the truth, there or thereabouts. I fancy I suspected the existence ofN.R.S. in the mouths of several of the smaller val- leys, and was confirmed in the idea by finding it in that of Leek. Besides, you find the old rocks, don't you, peeping out here and there through the New Re-1 between Ashbourne and Derby? Whut do you make of the Cheadle coal-field? are its boundaries simple SURVEY WORK. 463 faults, cliffs, or denuded slopes ? Smyth writes about some red marls, supposed to be Coal-measures, between Newcastle and Eentham; whut are they? There are red marls in the Coal-measures of North Staffordshire. You'll see when you go to Walsall the difficulty of tracing the boundary north of that town. By the way, I think of coming to town to see the big show at the end of July. Could you not get a, requisition to stop me in Stafford- shire for a week on my return ? I could join you at Walsall, and we'd go over that ground together, and settle all the important points in that time. ... I am glad Percy is made metallurgist ; he'll do good work. I am glad also to hear the educational dodge is coming out. I would there was a prospect here of something of the sort ; I am almost tired of perpetual field-work, and long to read and to lecture. . . . MonJcstoum, Cork, July 2G, 1851. But for my having sent accidentally to the Cork post-offxce, your letter addressed there would have been returned to Dead-letter OjB&ce. We are nine miles from Cork. I think you have done rightly, but it is a case in point as to pushing and driving. The memoir on North Wales ought to have appeared simultaneously ^th the maps ; you have now other occupations com- ing thick upon you, and I see very clearly it stands a i 464 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. great chance of never being written at all. I'm sure all my recollection of my work is fast going out of my head. As to money, by Jove, &jr, this country is awful! It may be cheap to live in if you can settle down any- where ; but for travellers like us, I assure you it is at least as expensive as England, without half the comfort. They all look upon me as a government officer and fair game, and they naturally, without previous concert, combine together to impose on us. They are like the "Welsh in their determination to have a bargaining match, and always commence by asking four times what they mean to take ; but as they fight every step, we are reduced either to give what they ask, or go with- out. Monhstown, Corh, Oct. 15, 1851. My dear Kamsay, — I wonder whether you have really left Llan &c. (too long a word that to write oftener than is absolutely necessary ; not but what we have some queer names here ; for instance, Garranc- kincfeake and Ballykickabog), and I also wonder whe- ther you have left it a free man or a captive. I aw delighted to hear that Selwyn's work is coming out so well. I am deep in the memorial of South Staffordshire, and have as yet steered clear of King Charles' head. . . • On looking at 's work, I certainly did ' The marvellous work behold amazed.' fUKES. ELECTRO-BIOLOGY. 465 all. I'm sure all going out of my country is awful ! settle down any- 3sure you it is at i half the comfort, mt officer and fair previous concert, They are like the lave a hargaining Lsking four times y fight every step, ey ask, or go with- 'orh, Oct. 15, 1851. whether you have lord that to write ^ 1; not hut what ^e ustance, Garraiic- also wonder whe- a captive. I am is coming out so ,uth Staffordshire, Charles' head. . . • lydid .mazed.' It exhibits an audacity which is either admirable or exe- crable, and for the life and soul of me I can't say which. Oct. 28, 1851. . . . Went to a lecture on electro-biology last night, and never laughed so much in my life. Some queer things, though, as the people acted on were well-known in Cork. He set one young fellov/ whistling, and would not let him stop — a perpetual stream of weugh ! — one (lull note for a quarter of an hour, while the fellow was begging him, by signs and pointing to his mouth, to let him stop. Another very good-looking young fellow, but rather dreamy-looking, he made imagine himself Father Matthew, and he gave a solemn religious discourse on temperance, amidst the shouts of the audience. He made him, moreover, come forward as Mr. Wilson and sing a song, in the middle of which he disenchanted liim, and the fellow^ stopped short, looking about him in a most bewildered manner, blushed, and rushed to liis seat. . . . During Mr. and Mrs. Jukes' residence at Monks- town, Forbes paid them a short visit, of which the following account was furnished to Mr. Geikie, and is taken by permission from his Life of Edward Forbes : 'My wife and I were living at that time in the old HH 466 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. vicarage of Monkstown near Cork, and Forbes came down to me to examine the fossils of Cork Harbour and the neighbourhood. He was then busy with his great work on the British Mollusca, and especially on that part of it relating to the Limacidae. At that time he always carried a tin box in his pocket with half-a- dozen fat slugs in it, on the description of which he was then engaged. The vicarage, being an old damp house, was well adapted for a slug preserve : the kit- chen and pantry were every night baited with pieces of turnip or other delicacies suited to the limaceou^j appe- tite, and the prey diligently secured in the morning. Our Irish servant was horribly disgusted at these sZwf/- gisli propensities of our guest.' Forbes also inspected some remarkable fossils which had been found near Ballyhale in the county Kilkenny, respecting which Mr. Jukes writes : ' They were cer- tainly a very remarkable group : fronds two feet across of a large fern, since called by Forbes (provisionally) a Cyclopteris, with the specific name of Hibernica; seve- ral stems of Stigmaria Calamltes and Lepldodendron, or other similar plants ; and a shell like our Anodon, three inches across, to which Forbes afterwards, iu spite of my remonstrances, insisted on affixing my own inharmonious name as a specific designation.' JUKES. PRACTICAL USES OF GEOLOGY. 467 and Forbes came of Cork Harbour len busy with his and especially on lee. At that time Docket with half-a- iption of which he .eing an old damp preserve : the kit- lited with pieces of he limaceou^i appe- d in the moruing. asted at these duf rkable fossils which |e county Kilkenny, * They were cer- |nds two feet across les (provisionally) a if Hihernica ; save- ind Lepidodmlmi |l like our Anodon, •hes afterwards, in |on afiixlng my own lignation.' Dublin, Dec. 18, 1851. May it please your honour ! — The South Stafford- shire coal-field already looks seedy, not only in coal, but more especially in ironstone. Most of the best beds of ironstone are being rapidly worked out ; there is a large importation from other places, not solely for mining. In great part of the district the thick (coal) is all gone, or else is so drowned by water, in consequence of the faults, &c. being all worked through by gate-roads, that its draining is next to impossible. I believe that the publication of our maps, with the Permian marked on them, will have a marked effect in raising the value of the parts so coloured. This is one reason why I wish to be so especially cautious in doing it ; an unsuccess- ful experiment on our authority will damage us most seriously, a successful one would establish us for the next half century. Imperfect trials have been made in abundance; lots of people will be ready to make a great one on our recommendation — expend 20 or 30,000L perhaps. Sedgwick, on a \isit to Sir H. Halford in south part of Leicestershire, saw an engine, &c. at the top of a hill a few miles off, and was told it was a coal-pit. He na- turally went to look, and on going up the hill found I Lias shale with Lias fossils, &c. * Why,' says he, * this I IS Lias !' ' Lias !' says the proprietor, coming down on piia; 'you're a liar, and you're all liars together !' &c. 468 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 'm Naturally, the man ruined himself. I recollect a shaft being sunk on the Oolice close to the town of North- ampton. It was by a company, the shares of which weii principally purchased by poor shopkeepers, servants, &c. at the instance of some * practical coal -miner.' They sank for a long way till they had got all the money they could, when one fine morning the projector cut his stick. Buckland used to tell a story of Lord Oxford sinking on some property in Oxfordshire, on the Kimmeridge or Oxford clay, by the advice of a ' great practical man' and in opposition to all Buckland could say, who offered to be broiled on the first ton of coals raised there, and Conybtare made a caricature of Biicb frizzling in his own fat. Not only these gross errors have still place ; for instance, well-educated Londoners. gentlemen, have assured me there was plenty of coal on Blackheath common, only there was a law against getting it — a very unjust and oppressive law, sir, which ought to be repealed. In South Staffordshire I knew two instances of ground bailiffs, intelligent men, vrell versed in coal-getting, continuing to sink in Silurian shale, and heaps of the fossils of that formation l}^Dg on the pit-bank ; they were still going down for coal. Not a man in South Staffordshire, except Blackwall and Matthews, knows what a fault is ; they im^igiue all faults to be contemporaneous with the beds — the coal grows, and so do the faults. Moreover, ' anything is '^ JUKES. PRACTICAL USES OF GEOLOGY. 469 I recollect a shaft he town of North- ihares of wliicli were pkeepers, servants, ictical coal -miner.' ey had got all the orning the projector :ell a story of Lord Oxfordshire, on the B advice of a * great all Buckland could he first ton of coals , caricature of Bucky ^ these gross errors ducated Londoners, was plenty of coal was a law against sive law, sir, wliicli taffordshire I knew telligent men, wll to sink in Silurian lat formation Ij^ng .ing down for coal , except Blackball |s ; they im^tgine all the beds— the coal ►ver, ' anything is '^ fault that injures the coal,' ■ 's words. I mean to come out strong on this and other points in my memoir. There are several old coal-pits in the Black slate near Cerrig-y-Druidion, and a gentleman there has still 500L at the service of any man who will undertake to go deep enough to find the coal. The name of these stories is legion. The money wasted in this centuryy for want of the very rudiments of geological knowledge in those who wasted it, would have paid for the whole Survey and Museum since its establishment, and given it an endowment of 2000Z. per annum for ever. You may say that on my authority, if you don't like to say it on your own. I mean not only wasted on fruitless trials, but in bad mining where coal was. Even the ' great swamp' in South Staffordshire, where there are many thousand acres of thick coal now under water, each acre of thick coal alone worth from 800L to 10003., is the result of bad mining. I don't know the exact ex- tent of it, but say it is worth only 500,000L, there is the interest of that, or 25,000/. per annum, lost for many years, and great part for ever, as to drain it now will cost an immense sum. Is that enough for your wor- ship?* * Note hy Professor Ramsay. These anecdotes were sent to lie for my introductory lecture to the geological class, at the first opening of the School of Mines. I wanted some information of "lis kind to show tlie common practical uses of geological know- ledge. li 470 LETTERS OF y. BEETE JUKES. ■i In farther illustration of this subject, an impcrunt note was added to the account of the Geological Surrey, given by Mr. Jukes in 1866, which is here subjoined : * Very few people are aware of the enormous amount of loss which has been incurred, and is even yet of an- nual occurrence, in fruitless mining enterprises. The loss from bad mining is, I believe, something frightful; but I now more especially allude to that utterly useless expenditure which takes place in the vain search after mineral veins or coal, in places where their occurrence is quite hopeless. Even in such rich mineral districts as Cornwall and Devon, it is said that many of the most experienced mining men there have strong doubts as to whether a profit has been realised on the whole amount of expenditure. Mr. Hunt, in the mineral statistics for the year 1862, states the whole value of the tin, copper, and lead raised in that district during that year to be nearly three millions sterling. The necessary expendi- ture in raising that amount is doubtless very large ; and when to that is added the money spent in the vaiu search after fresh veins, and the continuance of work on old veins after their riches have been exhausted, it is | quite possible that the profits on the whole transactions | even of that year may have been much smaller than would at first be supposed. * Miners and geologists are equally destitute of that knowledge of the mode of deposition of minerals in veins LOSS FROM BAD MINING. 471 which would enable them to avoid ho great a loss ; but it is obvious that this knowledge can only be ultimately utialiied by the application of the most accurate scien- tific investigation into the nature and origin of mineral veins, and that the necessary preliminary to that must be the exact delineation of them and their attendant phenomena on maps of a sufficiently large scale to exhibit them clearly and without distortion. * When to the loss incurred in rich mineral districts is added that which is of yearly occurrence in the search for mineral veins in remote parts of the United King- dom, where no one ever hears of it, except a few of the peasantry or a stray geologist, the annual cost of the Geological Survey is seen to be a trifle in comparison. But the money wasted in the search for coal is almost equally great. The foolish expenditure of which, dur- ing the thirty years of my geological life, I have been myself personally cognisant, cannot have been less than 150,OOOL The expenditure of which I never happened to hear must, I should suppose, have been at least as great. The total would make a sum which, capitalised, would pay the present annual cost of the Geological Survey in perpetuity. As a specimen of bad mining, I may mention that about three years ago I was consulted by some connections of my own respecting a coal-pit in the South Welsh coal-field, which had cost something like 30,000Z. It had been sunk chiefly on the advice of 472 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I a practical man, who managed an adjacent colliery, but who did not notice that the axis of the synclinal curve in which the beds lay was itself inclined, and that ac- cordingly the coal of which they were in search had cropped out a mile before reaching the place where the pit was being sunk. This is but one, and by no means the worst, of numerous instances that might be given. The Geological Survey has already checked much of this fruitless expenditure, and I believe that I have been myself the means of putting a stop to as much of it as would repay the nation the amount of my own salary for the five-and-twenty years I have been in her Majesty's service. The increase and spread of geological know- ledge generally, however, to which the survey has con- tributed, has doubtless produced a still wider effect than is known to any of us. * None know more than the really eminent vein-miners how much their profession is infested by quacks, ^ho, often conceal their ignorance under a profuse use of technical mining phraseology. Some of these are doubtless knaves as well as quacks ; but the most dan- gerous class are the honest quacks — men who, having a smattering of mining knowledge, fancy they know every- thing, and would spend their own money, if they had it, in the enterprises they recommend to their employers. The obvious conviction of the truth of their fancies and crotchets, by which these men are animated produces a JUKES. TRAP AND BRECCIA. 473 acent colliery, but ic synclinal curve ned, and that ac- Bre in search had e place where the , and hy no means t might he given, ecked much of this that I have been as much of it as of my own salary en in her Majesty's f geological know- e survey has con- ill wider effect than ninent vein-miners hy quacks, T\-ho, a profuse use of ime of these are Ihut the most dan- en who, having a they know every- :ey, if they had it, their employers, their fancies and mated produces a necessary effect on the minds of those who suffer them- selves to ho influenced hy them. Moreover, it some- times happens that their positive and confident asser- tions cannot be met by any direct proof to the contrary, although the more a man trained to sound logical reasoning actually knew about the matter, the more hesitation he would feel in coming to the conclusions to which they leap at a bound.' Museum of Practical Geology, London, June 18, 1852. My dear Kamsay, — Concerning the obliteration of the trap of the Clent Hills, I fully coincide in it. I have always doubted them, and if you recollect, the last time we were on the Lickey, going up that steep bit, I said it was just as like trap in shape, &c. as the Clent Hills, and suggested the probability that the latter were, like it, only breccia. Still, the presuige of trap was so strongly on them, that I hesitated to knock it out altogether. However, away it goes now, and although it will involve much alteration in Uemoir and section, yet it so simplifies matters that I am quite delighted. The getting that horizon in the Permian and the two 'calcareous bands are capital. What deceived me about that trap breccia, when trying to survey the trap, was, that taking the existence of trap 474 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. as undoubted, I thouglit the loose angular fragments or breccia were drift, resting on the New Red, and pressing down into it, owing to its surface having been simul- taneously washed up. Then, at that place near Clent Hall where it went under the pebble-beds, I suppose this was an old local drift, or accumulation of debris, anterior to the new red times. What still strikes me as wonderful is, that where the pebble-beds abut against it and overlap it on the sides of the hills, there should be so little mingling of the two things. You would see between Clent and Calcott Hill that a boundary could be traced across a ploughed field, not more than ten yards wide, with all angular fragments on one side of it and all rounded quartz pebbles on the other. Museum of Practical Oeology, June 21. I have already in my description spoken of the great probability of the Bromsgrove fault running by Clent up to Wychbury Hill, if it were only to account for the apparent overlap of new red in Hagley Park. Wliat think you of making the boundary-fault split dottedly at Wychbury Hill, one branch going to south-west and ending in new red, the other going on to Clent, and joining by dots to the Bromsgrove ? . . . I have men- tioned the fact, that if those two faults join, we get a continuous line of fault running north and south, and CLENT— PEBBLE-BEDS. 475 throwing down to west for forty miles and more, viz. from east of Droitwich to west of Stone, across four quarter-sheets. I have determined to send you the last fragment of my second chapter for your revision. You will see that I have endeavoured to he as hrief as possible in my account of the New Red, and I think I have done justice to every one concerned. All my de- scription of Clent Hill trap is in press, and will have to ho cancelled ; or do you think I had better let it stand, and insert a correction of it ? . . . Whatever be the nature of the junction between the pebble beds and the angular debris, it is still very curious that two things so easily washed about should not be more mingled at the surface. By the way, I ought to call attention to it in the memoir. I have determined to start on Thursday at latest. I have still another chap- ter to write on odds and ends, but I cannot be any longer absent from my Irish work. June 24. Now for a deliberate answer to your letter, and a pack. I think it is a good plan for Howell to go and have a look at that Foxbrake affair. I recollect that knoll you mention, but east of that I do not believe there is a bit of rock seen in situ. The Permian there depends on pieces ploughed up in the fields and dug 476 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. out of the ditches, showing there was * red rock,' and not CM., at surface. As to the memoir, I wish you had time to read it all from beginning to end. I fully intended you should do so with the proof-sheets, aud revise it ; but if you are going abroad, it will be im- possible, I fear. I wanted you to look over my Stafford- shire Memoir, and I would do the same by your Nortli Welsh one. They n^ould both probably profit by the operation. . . . There are going to be some lectures on gold got up here immediately. . . . Since writing the above, and just as I was on the point of leaving, I was sent for to the council, where it was proposed to me to stop, and, if you had no objection to the proceeding, to stay a week longer, and jrive the first lecture on the geology of the gold regions of Australia. Sir Henry is to write to you on the subject. I am quite willing. Moreover, I had collected materials, and was going to add a chapter to the unbound copies of my book on physical structure of Australia, about the gold regions, so that it would help me rather than otherwise ; but if you think it interloping on your province, of course I drop it. Respond, king ! Deab Ramsay, ^^^^^ ^^v^- 22, 1852. Touching the Ludlow and Wenlock, there is a diffi- culty. It is impossible in Staffordshire to draw a line LUDLOW AND WENLOCK. 477 between Upper Wenlock shale and Lower Ludlow ditto —i.e. there is no diflFerence either in the rock or the fossils, so far as is known, all the way from the Am- yestrey limestone to the Wenlock limestone. More- over, the Wenlock limestone passes upwards into the shales above by such insensible gradations of nodules and bands of limestone, that it is equally impossible to draw a top to that. . . . What think you, pro liac vice, of introducing a third shade of colour without specify- ing it, and colouring the shale below the limestone darker than that between it or just above it ? I have tried it, that you may see how it looks. The only blotch is south of Walsall, where no one can tell where the devil the limestone is, though I think it will hereafter 1)8 found running down to the Delves and the Goodwins. I have now just finished the proof-sheets of my memorial. Heigho ! If I had only known the work it was to give me, I would never have asked for the district. However, it is all finished except a wood-cut of the map and a reduction of one of the sections, which are to accompany it. Now there is just time, before I send it finally to be struck off, for you to look it over, which I shall be very much obliged if you will do ; and if you find anything to say, just annotate on a separate sheet of paper. Criticise as severely as you like. Flog away. I'll find back as long as you'll find cat. Only, as it would now be expensive to alter much, I would 478 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. mm only do so in case of gross errors or faults. ... I am sorry to say my wife has been laid up ever since our return. I am almost beginning to fear she will not be able to stand our wandering life much longer. You will have heard of Mrs. Playfair's recovery. I hardly hoped ever to see her ajrain. . . , Maoroom, Nov. 5, 1852. Deae Eamsay, — I have three of yours to answer. "WTiy should I not draw the basalt ? What I object to is the having to waste my time in draughtsmanship unless I can do it as fast as I write this. Our time is too valuable to be wasted on clerks' work — our pay is head pay, not hand's, or we should shortly lose it. As to the tadpoles, of course Lowry knows they are meant for dots. He told me himself, especially in the vertical sections, that it was no use my bothering myself; so as soon as the geometrical drawings were done, I jfinished them as fast as I could write. If I had stayed to make them look pretty, they would not have been done now. As to your memoir : if you really have all the data, I would advise you to set to work at it in real earnest, and tell Sir H. that it is impossible for you to do other- wise than to go somewhere and write it. . . . Forbes and I quite agreed that it was no use going on accumu- lating data that were never to be reduced, arranged, and MAPPING AND MEMOIRS. 479 m, Nov. 5, 1B52. utilised, and that we must have clear time to bring out and publish our results. It is, in the end, the best policy also. We, that is you and I, must not allow ourselves to be reduced to the position of mere map-colourers ; what we do we must explain ourselves to the world, with the assistance of the palaeontologists, chemists, &c., if necessary. We must assume the right, and keep it, to be ourselves the judges of the time when and place where this shall be done. . . . There is one thing here I am in doubt about. All the Silurian district of S.E. Ireland is fin- ished without a memorandum by my predecessors. I do not know whether to go over it again at once, or wait till the Devonian district of S.W. Ireland is com- pleted. We are getting some inch maps out; before they are published geologically, the ground must be gone over again. . . . Macroom, Corh, Nov. 10, 1852. Your letter of the 7th is refreshing, and I thank you for it. I seem to myself somehow to want a faculty which other people have — that of thin-skinnedness or whatever you call it. If a fellow thinks me an ass, or a fool, or a knave, or any modification of those denomi- nations, it would never anger me that he should call iiic so (unless I saw he did it, not because he thought 48o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. •^ SO, but for the pure intention of insulting me). If it were a downright honest expression of conviction, I might endeavour, perhaps, to show him it was an er- roneous one, but it would never occur to me to feel offended that he entertained it. I can look back to several instances in my younger days when I resented such appellations — only after I found it was expected I should by the lookers on, and not at all from any feeling of my own. Even now it offends me much more wheu a man begs my pardon for intimating that he thinks I am not exactly right, and asks me to reconsider any- thing, than if he were at once to say, ' Jukes, you're a fool or a rascal !' I suppose it is in accordance with this idiosyncrasy that, when writing to a friend about anything I disagree with him upon, I always feel in- clined to put it ten times stronger than I actually think or feel, simply as a demonstration of friendship and good will. If I wrote civilly to him he might be quite sure that I either hated, or feared, or distrusted him. However, I am beginning to have a glimmering appre- hension that people in general either don't or won't comprehend this, and that I am alone or in a small minority on this point. The only remedy is, I suppose, that when I feel strongly tempted to write to a friend about anything — when it occupies my thoughts day and night, eating and drinking, walking and talking, and rattling sentences seem coining themselves in my brain fUKES. CAMBRIAN AND SILURIAN. 48 T ilting me). If it of conviction, I im it was an er- ;ur to me to feel can look back to I when I resented it was expected I II from any feeling much more wlieu g that he thinks I to reconsider any- J, ' Jukes, you're a n accordance with [ to a friend about I always feel in- an I actually think of friendship and .le might be quite or distrusted Mm. glimmering appre- ler don't or won't )ne or in a small [nedy is, I suppose, write to a friend thoughts day and and talking, and selves in my braiu every five minutes without my being consulted in the matter — is either to hire somebody to blow them at, or to put them all down on paper, and then put the paper into the fire. Because I recollect that it has often occurred to me, after once firing off a missive, to forget all about it, and to be very much puzzled when the answer came back (sometimes from a wounded, sometimes from an angry spirit) to recall to memory what the dickens it was all about. . . . Dullin, March 19, 1853. My dear Kamsay, — I have finished my sections, and !im now looking them over. I believe that the solid geometry is as perfect as I can make it. The mechanical part I must trust to the draugh ^sman and engraver. . . A day or two's work in Kildare lately nearly convinces me too of a large Cambrian tract there also, hitherto mapped as Silurian. If not Cambrian, it is the very uttermost base of the bottom of the Silurian, or soyne- where below that. In addition to the unconformability of these two, another good result comes out of our late work, and that is, that the granite comes up through the other rocks without heaving them up at all, except just close on the borders to a slight extent. On the contrary, the general dip is towards the granite, es- , pecially along a band of country running parallel to it, ' II 482 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. i i and one or two to four or five miles distant from its present surface boundary. I'll draw a section of what I mean on the other side. I am to have a paper on Wednesday week on this country. I wish it were to the London Society, fis it would, I think, tell well there. I am getting on with my various kinds of work, devoting the morning to one sort, the afternoon to ano- ther, and the evening to another, but the progress seems to be slow in each. In the Proceedings of the Geological Society of Dublin, 1853, a paper appeared, * On the Structure of the N.E. Part of the County of Wicklow, by J. Beete Jukes and Andrew Wyley, Esqrs.' This is probably the paper above referred to ; it contains the following passages : * The position of the stratified rocks with regard to the granite is very interesting, as tending ta modify the ideas wdth respect to the physical action of this rock, which, if not now prevailing, have only jnst ceased to be universally entertained. It was always thought that the eruption and elevation of a great range of granite invariably brought up upon its shoulders the lowest formation of the neighbourhood, and flung off the upper ones to a greater distance from its flaniis lu proportion to their newness. [Note by J. B. J. * I may here remark that I had JUKES. WICKLOW GRANITE. 483 es distant from its V a section of what D have a paper on I wish it were to ink, tell well there. )us kinds of work, le afternoon to ano- t the progress seems ological Society of )n the Structure of icklow, by J. Beete This is probably tains the following .ratified rocks with sting, as tending ta e physical action of ing, have only jnst id. It was always ion ofa great range its shoulders tlie .lood, and flung off from its flanks in remark that I bad >n long ago been suspicious of the fallacy of this notion, and been inclined to attribute the elevation of rocks generally to a great widely-acting force, most probably the action of great heat, of which the production of igneous rocks was one of the local symptoms ; but to look on the actual outburst of igneous rock as tending to produce depression rather than elevation in its im- mediate neighbourhood, except so far as the mere puck- ering and crumpling of the beds directly in contact with them are concerned.] 'In North Wicklow, however, we see, according to our present results, that the granite has in no instance the lowest formation (viz. the Cambrian) in contact with it, in no instance brings any portion of it up upon its flanks ; but on the contrary, that the Cambrian rocks either dip towards the granite when they approach within a couple of miles of it, or pay no regard to it at all; and that the Silrrian rocks which rest upon the granite have their beds tilted up by it only when very near it, and then at comparatively low angles, while a mile or two off they are almost invariably vertical, much contorted, but seem to have a general tendency to plunge headlong in the direction of the granite. It seems as if the elevation of the granite and its outburst liad left a great hollow or cavity, as it were, running parallel to its present general direction, and a little removed from it, and that the rocks had sunk bodily 484 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. into this cavity, suffering greatly from lateral pressure, doubtless, during the process, while rocks still farther removed had remained wholly or comparatively unaf- fected. Although it is beyond the limits of this paper, we will just add, that the position of the rocks on the Kildare side of the granite confirms these conclusions. The lowest rocks are farthest removed from the granite, and notwithstanding many sharp flexures which are seen here and there, the general dip of the whole is towards the granite, except immediately on the flanks of that rock, where the beds are bent up against it.' '*:. 1 1 p 1 In order to illustrate Mr. Jukes' unfailing desire to do full justice to his colleagues when compelled to differ from their conclusions, the opening observations of this paper are here added : ' In revising the six-inch map of the Geological Survey, previously to laying down the results of the work upon the new inch-sheet map shortly to be pub- lished, we were led to take a rather different view of the main features of the structure of the north-eastern part of the county of Wicklow from that which has pre- viously obtained. In stating this view, we wish em- phatically to remark that we impute no deficiencies to any of those who had previously examined the country, since, without the benefit of their previous labours, it is possible that we might not have arrived at our present il!l«; ill JUKES. FELDSPAR TRAPS. n lateral pressure, rocks still farther )mparatively unaf- mits of this paper, f the rocks on the these conclusions. d from the granite, flexures which are ip of the whole is ately on the flanks t up against it.' * unfailing desire to compelled to differ observations of this of the Geological the results of the shortly to be pub- lififerent view of the north-eastern part lat which has pre- Iview, we wish em- \q no deficiencies to lined the country, fevious labours, it is lived at our present 485 results. The country is one of almost unexampled dif- ficulty; difficulty arising in part from the very com- plicated, and often almost inexplicable, structure of the rocks.' Rathdrum, June 15, 1853. My dear Ramsay, — I can only say that the colour for granite on the published Irish sheets is indistin- guishable by any eye from that for Cambrian in the Anglesea ditto. There is an altered Silurian also, which is werry nearly the same. When I said green should be kept for feldspar trap, I meant ' quite the reverse ;' that it should be kept for hornblendic, augitic, or pyrox- enic trap — confound their mineralogical jargon ! (That is spoken quite aside.) If ever you look at my little book, you will see I have hooked granite on to the feldspar traps, though I hardly worked the connection out, simply because I had not a piece of rock to look at when I wrote it, and only wrote from a vague impression that I had formed that fonclusior. once. I am going to get Sullivan down here next week, and we mean to work the very entrails ('Ut of all the traps hereabouts, and not leave 'em a single atom of mystery to pride themselves on any longer. Worst of it is, when one has made out the fhemistry and mineralogy, one can't see the geology in this confounded roUy-poUy wood-covered country. 486 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. If T had all back work cleared off hero and in thi museum — and if I had my own way, there should be m more forward work done till all the back work xca. cleared up — I could, by help of the six-inch map, adop such a system of work, that with six mappers, two col lectors, and one office-man, I could have maps, reports, sections, and memoirs, rocks and fossils all prepared, arranged, and published in one continuous stream, and yet have five months' lecturing, six months in the field, and one month abroad. I could not do it with the inch maps, because there you cannot at once fasten on the data that looks shaky, and go and examine them. More- over, I must be at perfect liberty to devise and carry out my own system, and must have publication and all that in my own hands. In that case, I would in two years' time have everything as smooth and regular as clockwork; so that the things should do themselves very nearly. It is this seeing my way to what could be dojie and not being able to do it, that frets and annoys me very often.* . . . One other reason why I want a lecture * It was in the same year in which this letter was written that Edward Forbes was also feeling thoronglily disheartened by the inability to carry out his own ideas with respect to surroy work, and he thus writes to Mr. Horner from Jermyn-stiet October 1853 : ' Rest assiired there is no post here, or possibly to he made hen, that would induce me to remain, could I become Professor Janie son's successor in his professorship and keepership. Lyell with the kindest of intentions, wrote to Mr. Cardwell of his own OFFICIAL OBSTRUCTION 487 post is that, though well strung up again now, I know I may break down any day for field-work. However, I can't stop bothering you, when there is an article in the Literary Gazette awaiting me. Good-night. this letter was written, •oughly disheartened by I with respect to suiTey ner from Jermyn-street, Rathdrum, June 25, 1853. My dear Cara, — I have had a week's very exhaust- ing work, what with the heat and the nature of the country ; but to-day, being a drizzle, I am indoors, and attempting to knock off some of my back correspond- ence. I am glad you are pleased with my new book.* It has only been reviewed in the Literary Gazette yet. ... I should like very much to come and see you at accord, and did uot tell me that he had done so until afterwards. Playfau' did the same without informing me. I have assured both, that I cannot accept any office in preference. Lyell does not know how we stand here, and has never felt the horrors of being slowly strangled by red tape — a process of slow torture and eventual death we are undergoing in tliis place.' — Life of E. Forbes. It surely indicates that something must have been greatly 'out of joint' when the same burden pressed so heavily upon, and probably shortened the lives of, two such men as Professor Forbes and Mr. Jukes — men whose sole aim was thoroughly and conscientiously to perform their work, and who, moreover, knew so much better than the * officials' by whom they were thus ham- pered, what that work was and how it could best be accomplished. * Popular Physical Oeology, published in 1863 in Lovell Reeve's series. I I 488 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ■\ I'l Compton, but do not see any probability at all of such an event. I am going to try for the appointment of examiner to the Queen's University in geology. If I get it, that will take mo a fortnight in Dublin in Sep- tember. Then Binney talks of summoning me as a witness to a mining trial in Edinburgh, at the end of July or thereabouts. All these will so cut up my time, together with the possibility of having to go up to Dub- lin to meet Mr. Cardwell when Parliament breaks up, &c. that I shall be entirely used up till winter sets in. How fearfully fast the years fly round now ! I de- clare we shall come to the end of our days in no time at all ; and I already often look forward to it — another reason why one must stick to one's work, or there will be no time to finish it. Hoping you may long enjoy your little nest at Compton, and with best love to Alfred and the boys, believe me, dear Cara, your affec- tionate brother, Beete. Stephen's Green, Dublin, Oct. 20, 1853. My dear Eamsay, — I was bothered so much all morning yesterday, that I put oflf answering you till afternoon; but afternoon brought me an impertinent letter from a pig-headed lawyer to whom I owed a wipe, and it took me till post-time mixing and compounding the plaster and polishing the lancets with which I meant JUKES. ADDRESS, DUBLIN GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 489 lity at all of such le appointment of in geology. If in Dublin in Sep- Qmoning me as a rgh, at the end of JO cut up my time, g to go up to Dub- iament breaks up, ill winter sets in. oun J now ! I de- days in no time at ird to it — another ^ork, or there will u may long enjoy with best love to Cara, your affec- lin, Oct. 20, 1853. 3red SO much all ,nswering you till e an impertinent om I owed a wipe, and compounding ith which I meant to operate on him. I took the dignified gentlemanly tone, made everything as suave as possible, and treated him altogether as a matador does a bull in Spain, avoid- ing his rushes and gracefully sticking an arrow in his flanks. I can imagine him foaming at the mouth at the present moment over my epistle. N^importe. If you recollect, I ran a section which very nearly com- pletes that sheet ; it is engraved on it, and I thought the sheet was published long ago. There may possibly still be room for a little section acro^ no Lickey, and I have drawn another pencil line, nearly incident with an old one, only starting from Northticia church, and ending at * Coppice,' anywhere from marl to marl through the coal-measures of the Lickey will do. For a datum you will require to run a short line from the railway up to Northfield church. In February 1854 Mr. Jukes, as president, gave the annual address to the Geological Society of Dublin, in which he briefly sums up the contributions that had been made during the two previous years to geological science in the British Islands. He especially notices M. Elie de Beaumont's * Theory of Mountain Chains,' as explained by Mr. Hopkins ; the papers of the latter on the * Drift ;' Professor Kamsay's paper on the * Se- quence of Events during the Glacial Epoch, as evinced 490 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. { by the Superficial Accumulations of North Wales ;' and that by Professor Forbes on the Eocene series in the Isle of Wight. Mr. Jukes also refers to several papers of great interest by Professor Sedgwick on the paleozoic rocks of Devon, North Wales, and Cumberland, and on the * Separation of the Caradoc Sandstone into two dis- tinct Groups ;' and to a paper by the Duke of Argyle on the * Granite District of Inverary,' the latter being of special interest to himself, because it tended to confirm his own views with respect to the action of granite. This address concludes with the hope that, together with the scientific and economical benefits which Geo- logy has conferred on the world, * she has contributed her share to this moral benefit also — that philosophers can differ in opinion without loss of temper and without loss of respect for their opponents, and that, w^hile each is conscious of his own single aim at the discovery of Truth, he is ready to give credit for the same singleness and directness ui purpose to any one who may fancy that she lies in an opposite direction.' Few letters between Mr. Jukes and Professor Earn- say passed or have been preserved during this year. The following extracts relate chiefly to the death of Edward Forbes, conveying some faint idea of the grief which that sudden and lamentable event caused to his friend and colleague. DEA TH OF PROFESSOR E. FORBES. 491 tended to confirm Dublin, Nov. 19, 1854. My dear Ramsay, — . ... In my last address to the Geological Society, I mention briefly the geological mwey, and say I hope to b.*^ able to give a more de- tailed account of our progress on a future opportunity. I am very busy now, as I have a lot of practical details to get up for to-morrow night ; but on Tuesday I shall write my letter, which Forbes quite approves of, Mrs. F. says. I have still good hopes for him, and, in com- parison with his state, I care little for this affair. e who may fancy Nov. 21. ... I lectured again last night to a crammed theatre and a most attentive audience, although quarry- ing is a dry subject enough. The theatre has, indeed, been full every night except one, which was fearfully wet. How it will bo when they have to pay, I don't know. I am bothered by not being able to get a draughtsman, though I have 50L at my disposal for diagrams. I am going to send in a demand for heaps of books, geological maps, models of coal-fields and mining districts, &c. I hope that ' no news is good news,' as regards Forbe«. 3 P.M. I have received the news. God help us ! 492 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Dublin, Nov. 25, 1854. One seems at last recovering one's senses after a heavy blow. Eegret, I think, can only cease with life. Remembrance is forced upon one at every turn, by every circumstance of one's daily occupations; so that, highly as we all thought of him, it is only when he is gone that we find the frequent necessity for his aid, and the large gap of our life that he has dragged away witli him. However, it is all useless. Sorrow, regret, dis- appointment, are equally in vain. I could sometimes rave at fate, and feel a longing for some person or thing to take revenge upon, if grief did not almost prostrate one's energies. Enough said where nothing can be done. ... I have three men at work upstairs copying mining plans and sections into diagrams ; but they are awfully slow workers. ... I mean to ask for a fort- night's leave on December 20, but shall not come to town unless sent for. Heigho ! I must go and draw a diagram myself, so farewell. In his second * Address to the Geological Society of Dublin' (1855), in addition to the affectionate lament already quoted, Mr. Jukes speaks thus of the peculiar powers of Forbes' mind : 'Although he possessed all those natural powers of minute and accurate perception and discrimination, iii'i NATIONAL GEOLOGICAL SURVEYS. 493 tgram myself, so without which no man Cd,n become a real observer in natural history, he was the opposite of a mere species- maker. . . . He never remained satisfied with the know- ledge of a barren fact, where it was possible so to connect it with others as to make it tell a story. His ultimate aim and object was the philosophy of natural history in its widest and loftiest sense.* In the same address, which was delivered in Feb- ruary 1855, the state and progress of the geological survey are briefly summed up : ' I would always wish to see a national geological survey carried on with reference not so much to what may be thought our immediate requirements, as to the wants and requirements of the future. It ought to be in advance of its time, in order that, in a few years, it may not be found to lag behind it. It ought to con- template geology and its practical uses, not so much as they exist now, as foreseeing what they will be in the next and future generations. You may perhaps be in- clined to ask me how far the geological survey of Ireland will be in accordance with the high aspirations I have lieen putting forth. To this question I may answer, that it is one thing to form a great ideal model, and another to attain to its perfect execution. I hope that the future will prove our work to be not greatly below the standard of merit which I think ought to be at- tained, though, from a variety of circumstances, I fear 494 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. m\ it must in many instances fall short of it. One draw- back has hitherto been the want of sufficient means to do our work properly ; but I am happy to say that this impediment has been to some extent removed during the past year by the increase of our staff. Still, even now we have to choose between apparent slowness and a hasty imperfect execution. We are compelled to overcome our difficulties as best we may with the means afforded us, hoping that, when a better day comes, and the value and importance of geological work is more truly appreciated, we may be found to have done our best and to have been not altogether useless in our generation.' The autumn holiday of 1855 was spent in a journey to Auvergne, of which the subjoined letter gives some particulars : DuhUn, Sept. 15, 1855. My dear Cara, — At length I have got a few mo- ments' leisure, when I can give you a brief account of our movements. . . . We landed in Dieppe on Monday evening, August 6, slept there that night, and after a pleasant stroll in the morning on the beach under the chalk cliffs, proceeded to Paris. The journey through Rouen up the valley of the Seine — from half a mile to two miles wide, with its steep vine-clad banks about 300 feet high — was very beautiful ; and^we reached the Hotel de Tours in time for a late dinner. We only tUKES. JOURNEY TO AUVERGNE. 495 of it. One draw- sufficient means lappy to say tliat extent removed f our staff. Still, apparent slowness 3 are compelled to ay with the means ,er day comes, and ical work is more to have done our ler useless in our spent in a journey letter gives some Vin, Sept. 15, 1855. ive got a few mo- a brief account of Dieppe on Monday night, and after a le beach under the journey through •om half a mile to clad banks about .nd'we reached the dinner. We only le re just succeeded in getting a room, having to wait while a man cleared out. Next day, Dr. W. and his friend Mr. L. joined us, and we stayed in Paris a week, seeing a good (leal of the sights and the Exposition. On August 14, we set out by rail for Clermont at ten o'clock a.m., arriving there about eight p.m. ; and the next day but one we crossed the mountains to Pont Gibaud. Here we went up the Puy de Dome, 5800 feet {I.e. W. and I did, but Mr. L. and Augusta contented themselves with the Puy Parion, a lesser but more perfect crater), and saw several of the principal lava-streams. On August 19, we went to the baths of Mont d'Or, stayed three days, and went up the Pic de Saucy, 6200 feet — W. and I on foot, and Augusta and Mr. L. on horseback — and to several other points of that very beautiful and wonderful district ; bathed in the hot baths (old Roman), and collected specimens. On August 22, we all rode across the mountains, down into the valley of St. Nectaire, along the course of a. black lava-stream, which the river has cut through again, and in some places nearly washed away. Saw the encrusting springs. We slept at a rural hotel, built near some more hot baths, and the next day rode across a most interesting district down to Issoire, and returned by rail to Clermont. Here, after one day on Mont Gergovia — where CaBsar was nearly defeated by the ancient Gauls, and about which the guide had a- story of a princess ' who was made mm I 496 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. war upon by ' Le Prince Cesar' — W. and L. left us. "We set out by rail to Issoire, intending to proceed by diligence to Le Puy en Velay, but found every seat in the diligence engaged, and had to stay all day at a wretched inn, and travel all night to Le Puy, toiling up mountain roads at a funereal pace, arriving at Le Puy about eleven a.m. This was a most singular and pictur- esque town, in a basin surrounded by hills of 600 feet, with volcanic mountains in the background. Strange crags, narrow and quite precipitous (only to be scaled by narrow steps), rose in the valley, capped by ruins of castles. One rose out of the suburbs of the town with a church on the top of it. It is 265 feet high ; but as the stairs are broken, the entrance to them is closed. Another still loftier crag rose from the middle of the town, with the ruins of an old castle on the top, the streets being for the most part mere narrow stairs. It was still blazing hot, and nothing to be done in the afternoon. However, we one day drove in a sort of calash up to the mountains and had a picnic a deux at the edge of a wood among some crags. The coach- man thought us mad, and the coach -proprietor equally so, when we could not tell him where we were going nor what we wanted to do ; however, it was set down to the remarkable eccentricity of the English. . . . Aug. 31. We started by diligence for St. Etienne, with a French ofl&cer returning to the Crimea, very ST. ETIENNE COAL-FIELD. 497 melancholy at going back, for he said last winter was . 'horrible.' He was an oldish man, and two or three stalwart, gray-moustached brother officers came to see him off. They kissed each other most affectionately at parting, mingling their gray moustaches and giving a hearty smack. The porter told us there were four Russian prisoners on parole in the after part of the diligence, but at our first halt I discovered them to be Professor Roemer of Breslau, his brother, and two other German geologists. Roemer speaks English well, and is a capital fellow, and it was with no slight regret we found we had been at Mont d'Or, Issoire, and Le Puy together without ever meeting till we were leaving the country. We still had mountainous, almost Alpine roads, frequently very beautiful, till we descended into the valley of St. Etienne, the principal coal-field of France, and found ourselves surrounded by smoky chimneys and black faces. St. Etienne, 70,000 people, is made up of pieces of Coventry, Birmingham, Man- chester, Bilston, Tipton, and Gornall Wood, all min- gled together, the stone houses being all black, and one wonders what brings all the colliers and work- people talking French ; for in looks, dress, and manner, they might be all South Staffordshire. The next day, after a visit to the Ecole des Mines, we all set off for Lyons. It rained tremendously, and we found Lyons in a perfect flood. Taking leave of our German friends, 498 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 1 4 we started at ten o'clock p.m. for Paris, and arrived by one o'clock next day. Here we had a final peep at the Exposition, and on Friday morning were just finishing our breakfast, and in five minutes we should have been gone, when who should come in but Prestwich. He said the Geological Society of France were holding an extraordinary seance and making excursions all round Paris, and that I must stop ; accordingly we did till Friday, I getting up at five o'clock in the morning and going off" twenty or thirty miles by rail, and not return- ing till seven or eight at night, leaving poor Augusta (whose friends had left Paris) all alone for three days running. On September 7 we returned via Boulogne and Folkestone, and reached London at two a.m. on Saturday. For the first time for nearly six weeks did we then know what silence was. In France, in town or country, no matter where, there is always somebody shouting, singing, stamping in wooden shoes, slamming doors or windows, always coaches or carts rumbling, dogs barking, cocks crowing, bells ringing, so that from mere noise alone, it was only when utterly wearied out (and not always then) that we were able to get an un- broken night's sleep. I never suff'ered so much from heat as in Auvergne, but they said they had never had such heat before. . . . I have now a lot of maps to do ; then the examina- tion in the Queen's University ; then I have to run WORK RESUMED. 499 ris, and arrived by a final peep at the svere just finishing 5 should have been it Prestwich. He !e were holding an cursions all round dingly we did till a the morning and dl, and not return- ving poor Augusta one for three days •ned via Boulogne 3n at two A.M. on iarly six weeks did n France, in town 8 always somebody m shoes, slamming 3r carts rumbling, iging, so that from utterly wearied out able to get an un- bred so much from jhey had never bad down to KiUarney; and on November 3 commence lec- turing, and, with the exception of a fortnight at Christ- mas, shall be lecturing every other day till the end of March. then the examina- len I have to ru» i H LETTERS ON THE SURVEY (continued) AND ON THE STATE OF IRELAND. 1856-1858. Letters to Professor Ramsay from Omagh, Galway, Dublin, Ban- try, on surveying work — Manual of Geology — Letters to the Times on the state of Ireland : No. 1. Universal feeling of estrangement from the English goverrmient — No. 2. Social condition of the people — No. 3. Evils of governing by vice- masters. Omagh, Jan. 1, 1856. My dear Ramsay, — A happy New-year to you and yours. ... I am lecturing two hours a night here, with all this business and other matters, quarter's ac- counts, &c. ; so you can easily imagine I have enough to do. Drove thirty miles before daylight on Saturday, over a country like that about Trawsfynnydd, in a gale of wind and rain-storms. Back again on Monday morn- ing. Jan. 2. What do you think of the triple division of tbe Lower Paleozoic which I have proposed ? I think it would make a nice symmetrical classification, and 502 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. would bo true to Nature and avoid all systematising anc theorising : Paleozoic. Upper. Lower, f. Permian. o. Upper Silurian. e. Carboniferous. h. Lower Silurian. d. Devonian. a. Cambrian. Having got six letters and sir colours to represent m things, we can leave the exact demarcation of any oi them to work themselves out hereafter. The precise boundary between c and h would often be as difl&cult to hit as between a and h, or as that between c and d, per- haps, in Shropshire, or d and c certainly in the south- w >f Ireland, and c and /perhaps in other localities. Sux. ihe main masses would be distinct enough. . . . Leenane, Killeny Harbour, west coast of Galimy, Sept. 7, 1856. My dear Kamsay, — ^Yours of 3d received here last night. Post only three times a week. Last year no post-office nearer than twenty-five miles. . . . If you want another odd section, I'll give you one [section] . . We did not discuss the Lower Silurian or Cambrian question at all. I had other things to think of, being more in the Old Eed Sandstone line. Dunoyer ami Salter now suppose part of that great red series at Dingle to be Old Eed Sandstone, with other Old Red SILURIAN AND CONGLOMERATE. 503 il systematising and Sandstone conglomerate, unconformable, at top of it. I doubt.* Certainly the Silurians there altogether are litho- logically more like old red sandstone than anything else, as they consist largely of bright red sandstone with large beds of brown conglomerate; but interstratified with these are beds full of Silurian fossils. It will all come right in the end, I have no doubt. 6 P.M. Beaten back from the pass of Bandarra by rain. The great conglomerate here in the Silurian rocks is certainly rum — perfectly rounded boulders of granite and greenstone, at least eighteen inches across, so firmly set in a hard gray grit, that you can rarely knock tliem out. It all breaks together ; but when they do come out, the surface of the pebbles is like billiard- balls for smoothness — quite regularly bedded, and in- terstratified with beds of very fine hard greenish-gray grit, like Cambrian rock. . . . Dublin, Oct. 9, 1856. Your letter enlightened me a good deal. I was aware that Bala = Caradoc and did not = Llandeilos —nay, I maintained the former on physical grounds * Note by Professor Ramsay. He ceased to doubt, and proved tlie unconformity, ^qq Manual. 504 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES, alone, in my address to the Dublin Geological Society three years ago — and that the Pentamerus beds = May- hill sandstone ; but I did not know that the Craig-y- Glyn limestone = Llandeilos, and not Bala. I suppose, then, the Gorwyllt limestone is the same. I never even saw the sections across Craig-y-Glyn that I recol- lect, and certainly did not kno^v they were published; neither have I had any maps of any sort sent me for about three years, nor the last decade, nor anything else. I merely hear of these things or see them in advertisements, and then forget to write for them ; but I will, and also have them sent without. I had no idea that the ' pale slates' (a name I think I first used to Aveline) were coming out so importantly, or were so closely related to Pentamerus beds, or that they had fossils at all. As regards a name for the Penta- merus beds, Sedgwick's of May-kill sandstone has clearly the priority and is in use. I rather think Sharpe was the first to state boldly that Bala = Caradoc. Sedgwick calls your Montgomeryshire grits by the name ' Denbighshire grits,' if I mistake not ; and it is not a bad name, since they sweep all through Denbighshire in great force and very typical form from Conway, where they have the pale slate underneath them to Pentre Voelas, and round north of Cerrig-y-Druidion, down to the Druid, lying quite comfortably all the way between the pale slate and the Wenlock shale or flag. They MAY-HILL SANDSTONE. 505 cover a larger area north of Pentre Voelas and raake bigger hills than anywhere else. You must clearly go carefully through the GeologicalJournal, &c., reading all the papers on North Wales, and giving every one his due — mentioning all the points where each man is right, iiud adopting his names, saying nothing of where he is wrong unless absolutely necessary. You must assume the office of judge, and be impartial above all things. I am not quite clear that ' May -hill sandstone' is not the proper name for these, including the Pentamerus l)eds and the pale slate. The latter is nowhere over- lapped by what we call Caradoc that I know, unless at Gam Brys, near Pentre Voelas. On the contrary, sup- posing it to be the top of the Bala, I always maintained its constancy, and that therefore there was no uncon- formity between Bala and the beds above in North Wales. I do not think either that our old Caradoc is so much overlJipped by the Wenlock as that it dies out to the east. It is evidently made of the waste of the old feldspathic traps on the west, which must have been out of water, and their sand was not washed beyond a certain line to the east. If you look at our maps, the several places where our yellow colour ends are all nearly in a straight line north and south. I believe this ending could now be distinctly traced south of Llaugollen. There are a lot of sandstones coming ilown from Corwen towards the Ceiriog, that Aveline 5o6 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. was strongly disposed at one time to put in as Caradoc, but decided against them on mineral character alone. I think they must be above the pale slate, the import- ance of which we were not aware of till some time after that — when, indeed, wo were leaving the Llangollen country. (That was the reason of my mistake north of Llangollen ; and it was only the very last day I was out there, that I saw the pale slate there and its bearing.) Now I think that just north of Tomen-y-Meiru there are just a few feet of fine-grained sandstone between the pale slate and the Wenlock flag, and that these are the dying-out of the sandstone we called Caradoc. I Iiad always a misgiving about that place, and the bound- ary north of Moel Ferna seemed to me to go across the strike of the beds. However, I never worked the ground, and may be all wrong; but had we then known of the ' pale slates,' it would have saved us a world of trouble and prevented these mistakes. I hardly know what to say to that ground and the limestones of Glyn Ceiriog. It ought to be gone over again with our new lights ; for, just looking at the maps now, I am afraid we all got all wrong somehow, and that the pale slates as the base of the Upper Silurian may go unconform- ably in many places over the Bala beds, and that may be the cause both there and elsewhere — about Conway, for instance — of much that puzzled me, when on the ground. Heaven ! if I had not to lecture, I would ask 'MANUAL OF GEOLOGY : 507 leave to go and dash over the borders of all my old work this winter. Indeed, I hardly see how you can get out of shifting the boundary of the Bala beds to the base of the 'pale slate/ and making all above that Upper, and all below it Lower Silurian. EecoUect Sedgwick's name for the pale slates is the * Pasty Kock.' I am going ahead with the Berwyns. Forty pages already. Oct. 10. My birthday. Forty-five I am ! . . . Dullin, Nov. 5, 1857. My dear Ramsay, — I was very glad to hear of your safe return. You seem to have seen much and well.* I feel greatly in want of some such a run even now at the beginning of the winter. That confounded book of mine hangs over me like an incubus. f I am now at * Alluding to a journey made by Professor Ramsay to Canada and the United States, to attend a meeting of the iYmerican As- sociation for the Advancement of Scicn«e. f The book referred to above was his Manual of Geology, the first edition of which was pu^-'lislied in 1857, and is inscribed to the memory of Edward Forbes. In the preface to this edition, he says : ' Early in the year 1854, the late Professor E. Forbes asked me to be his fellow-labourer in writing the article on geology in the ucw edition of the Encijclopiedia JJritunniou, and a text-book to be founded on it. At the meeting of the British Association in Liverpool, we had agreed each to sketch out a plan and to submit it to the other; but before even that could be done, death deprived the world of his services. When, after some time had elapsed, i 508 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. work at an alphabetical list of all genera, with a refer- ence to every page in which each is mentioned. I begin it at six o'clock, a.m. It is an awful task, and has al- ready taken me a month, and not near the end. I am convinced the old red sandstone of South Wales is two things, but it would require very close and de- tailed work to separate them. . . . The upper Old Bed leaves the lower behind at Caermarthen (as you know) and also at Usk, going on between the Usk Silurian and the publishers decided to intrust the work to my hands, I imme- diately commenced it; but as I could only devote to it occasional hours not occupied by my official duties, I found myself unable to complete the article in time to come in its proper place in the Encyclopaedia. It was necessary, then, to defer it till the publica- tion of the letter M made it possible to bring it in under the term Mineralogical Science. In the mean time I had felt in my own lectures the want of a text-book which should treat the subject of geology more systematically and more succinctly than any yet pubUshed, and the same want had been expressed to me by others. ' The Principles of Oeology, by Sir C. Lyell, must be read and ro-read by every one aspiring to be a geologist, and the perusal of his excellent Elementary Manual is almost equally necessary. They are, however, more adapted for the advanced student than the mere beginner, and presuppose the possession of much know- ledge of collateral subjects, some of which I have here endeavoured to supply. Instead, then, of wishing to supersede, my object is rather to lead up to the study of those works. . . . Neither do I aim at supplanting the excellent treatises of Phillips, of De la Beche, of Ansted, of Portlock, or of Page. I have wished to en- able the student to arrange in his mind and digest the knowledge he may acquire, either from the books above mentioned, or from the great works of Murchison and others.' SOUTH STAFFORDSHIRE MEMOIR. 509 snera, with a refer- lentioned. I begin il task, and has al- ar the end. one of South Wales very close and de- rhe upper Old Red :hen (as you know) le Usk Silurian and : to my hands, I imme- devote to it occasional I found myself unable its proper place in the defer it till the publica- ng it in under the term e I had felt in my own lould treat the subject luccinctly than any yet |ressed to me by others. ,yell, must be read and ildgist, and the perusal lost equally necessary, advanced student than isession of much know- have here endeavoured lupersede, my object is •ks. . . . Neither do I Is of Phillips, of De la I have wished to en- digest the knowledge fve mentioned, or from Pontypool without the lower or Corn stone group. The two are of coarse conformable about Abergavenny, being both nearly horizontal ; but off towards Llandeilo there is either total unconformity or a lot of faults along the strike. Doubtless, at Castell Craig Cennen the junction between upper and lower old red is a fault. Altogether I had only time to see that something was to be done, and had no time to do it. Not a ghost of a conglomer- ate in all South Wales, so far as I saw ; but I conclude there must be some, as everybody says so. I saw a few pebbles about as big as peas in a sandstone on the Vans of Brecon, but could hardly call that a conglomerate, unless very hard up for one. No time for more. Shall I send you my maps with the dips on ? — Ever yours, J. B. Jukes. Dublin, March 27, 1858. My dear Ramsay, — I'll look after Turk's Head.* I know Mr. Bennett, and will be glad to do anything I can for him. As to the livahleness of the place, a man can live anywhere if he can build a house, and take plenty to eat and drink, and send a boat for some more when he has done. ... I, this morning, working from seven o'clock to two sans intermission, finished the revision of my South Staffordshire Memoir. There are pages of replacing and additional MS. I divide it * In Newfoundland. 510 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. i I i now into fourteen chapters, with appropriate heading What I want you to do is to write the chapter givi the general description of the new red, to revise that the Permian; and then, after I have described t] boundary faults of the coal-fields, to describe the pos tion and lie of all the rocks that don't come within margin (of say half a mile) of any part of the coa field. You may say as much or as little as you like ; or, you like, I will cut out everything that does not com within that limit, and refer to some memoir of yours t be published in the year ! for an account of thi same. When do you finish your lectures ? Could yoi run over here for a week, and stay quietly with us while we had a good talk, and work over these and otbei things ? I find it tremendously hard to do any work in London, while here I have got everything en train for hard work. I find I have only a very imperfect set of the Staf- fordshire horizontal sections. Could you send me a complete set, uncoloured, if you have them, and also a copy of Hull's ? I think I could improve them now, with all the ideas fresh in my head. If I had had any notion of the amount of that Staf- fordshire work, I would have let it alone. It will have taken five weeks' hard work away from my other labours here, where there is botheration enough. LIFE IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 5" ppropriate heading:, We have tumbled into some controversial ground, aud I have the greatest difficulty to steer clear of a row. rfect set of the Staf- )nld you send me a ive them, and also a improve them now, Dublin, March 29, 1858. ... I can't find the least mention of Turk's Head in any chart, map, or book I have, nor have I any recol- lection of the name. I have been told of copper mines iu Placentia Bay, and daresay it is there. If Mr. Cle- ments reads over my Excursions in Newfoundland, he will see the kind of life he will have — a rough fisher- man sort of life. All intercourse carried on by fishing- boats or trading schooners; no agriculture beyond a potato - garden ; no fresh meat, except on great occa- sions ; fresh and salt cod in abundance, salt pork, salt butter, ship's biscuit, any amount of rum, wine, or beer be likes to send to the merchant's store for. That will perhaps be in another store twenty, thirty, or fifty miles away. If he gets into an English harbour, i. c. a place beld by English, Scotch, or Jersey men, he will be jolly enough. If into one held by South Irelanders, he will fiud it not so pleasant, and will have to keep on good terms with the priest. Only the sea-board inhabited ; the interior is a rough trackless wilderness, rocky, bar- ren, and overgrown with scrub. . . . 5" LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Castletown, Bantry, Sept. 2, 1858. My dear Eamsay, — . . . As to publications, Sir R when over here, told me distinctly he did not wish thet * data' to be * memoirs,' but something distinct. The certainly ought not to be memoirs, or you would ha^ two sets of memoirs going over the same ground. Eac sheet should be issued with its description — a shor cheap, sketchy thing, intended to explain the sheet an how the work was done, the data on which it was foundec where people were to go to see the data, sections, quai ries, &c. — for the use of the multitude. The memoir should be the condensed extract of these descriptionf addressed to the scientific geologist only. In the mea time the Irish stationery office have put a price of tw shillings each on these, instead of sixpence, threepence or gratis. They say they can only do what they ai ordered — charge what they cost. I suppose it is ofn use writing to Sir K. now to get this altered, but I sLal do so as soon as he comes back within the region civilisation. I have heard nothing about the new bone caves or the fossil man, but have not the least objectioi to believe the human race as many millions of year old as may be warranted by the evidence. . , . ESTRANGEMENT OF THE IRISH. 513 The following letters by Mr. Jukes appeared in the ftmcs in December 1858 ; and a perusal of them will show that they are by no means inapplicable at the present time : The State of Ireland. No. 1. To the Editor of the ' Times.' Sir, — I believe that some remarks on the state of Ireland, coming from a competent and impartial ob- server, might be acceptable just at the present time. In order to show that I ought to be able to observe truly and judge impartially, I will state in the first place that I am an Englishman born and bred, a graduate of an English university, and that my pursuits led me in early life to move much about England, and to mix on fami- liar and intimate terms with all ranks and classes of the people ; that I have since visited many countries, including some oi our own colonies, as well as those of other nations ; and that for the last eight years I have resided in Ireland, living in different parts of it for weeks and months at a time, and here again associating with people of all ranks, of all sects, and of all parties, on terms of the utmost frankness and cordiality. I ought, therefore, to be as free from local and national prejudice as most men, and have at least had the means of comparing a good many different races of people under many different circumstances. I will only farther LL W^^. 514 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. premise, that personally I never had reason to complaii of any one in Ireland, never, that I know of, made ai enemy, but many warm friends, and that I have no per sonal feeling to gratify nor any personal aim in what ] now write. I would first speak of the feeling of the Irish people towards the English government. Englishmen in gene- ral are, perhaps, hardly aware of the very widely-spread, if not very deeply-rooted or well-grounded, feeling of estrangement towards the English government that exists in Ireland. I speak now of the middle-class gentry, persons of education, people ' one meets in so- ciety,' as well as the tradesmen and shopkeeping class. The peasantry have, I think, very little fixed opinion on this point either one way or the other. This feeling of estrangement may be gathered even from the con- versation of those who would think themselves affronted if you spoke of them as any but loyal subjects of the English crown. They talk of the blunders of the Eng- lish government, or the occasional blunders of the Eng- lish arms or diplomacy, as if they were things foreign to themselves, of which they had no share and for which they felt no responsibility. But there is a very large class, especially among young men, who would not be at all offended if spoken of as wanting in loyalty; some who merely leave their sentiments to be inferred, others who will openly avow ESTRANGEMENT OF THE IRISH. 515 that they are not loyal subjects. Of these, perhaps the majority are Catholics and Young Irelanders ; some, however, are Protestants, and some even avowed Orange- men — men who will speak of themselves as Orange Ke- publicans or Eepublican Orangemen, whichever way you like to arrange the incongruous terms. This feeling does not ordinarily go beyond a vague sentimentality, such as one occasionally meets even in English society, which would never under any circum- stances lead to any positive effects. But when its ex- pression is freely and widely indulged in, even in Dublin, one cannot wonder at its more exaggerated form assum- ing a tangible shape, * a local habitatioa and a name,' in some parts of the country among young enthusiasts, ignorant alike of the things they profess to hate and those that they suppose they admire. I well recollect my surprise when, on my first com- ing to Ireland, I heard a gentleman by birth and edu- cation, a young man, an associate and friend of my own, avow, in evidently the full strength of sincere convic- tion, his belief that ' the English government was the worst in the world,' that he ' would rather live under any other government;' and on my asking why, I found that he was perfectly convinced that, among other de- hnquencies, the famine of 1848 was caused by the Eng- lish government, or, if not actually originated, was at least encouraged by them ; that it was their fault en- 516 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. tirely that so many people died ; and that they might if they chose, have taken such measures as would havi prevented a single person from perishing of starvation. I need scarcely add, perhaps, that at that time mj friend had never been out of Ireland ; but I mention ii to show the feeling with which he had been imbued b} every one with whom he had hitherto associated. In deed, he seemed both surprised and offended at m} venturing to oppose his assertions or to combat his opi- nions, never before apparently having met with any one who thought differently from himself upon the subject, although he moved much about Ireland. Such ideas originate principally in ignorance— ig- norance alike of the spirit of the British government and its power. Irishmen are too greatly imbued with the continental notion of personifying a government. They look upon it as an individual animated with it peculiar intelligence and feeling, as a ruler acting froEi his own iiL.^ dses, and expect it to guide, direct, auti gov- •' jverythiug. Englishmen regard a governmeni a temporary committee, a national vestry se- carry on the national business for a time, in V idii ice with the national feeling that may then happen to prevail, until the national will or caprice shall substitute iiother set of men, who shall be more in harmony w the new national feeling. Irishmen and Scotchmt ave, or at least they may have if they ESTRANGEMENT OF THE IRISH. S17 choose, just as much share in making the selection and contributing to the feeling as mere Englishmen, and if they do not choose to take their share and be satisfied, it is their own fault. If they have their own grievances, let them bring them forward, grumble and growl as much as they like ; and if they are substantial griev- ances, they require nothing but united action and per- severance to get them righted. Any section of the people of the United Kingdom who do not know and feel this, and are not always ready to act upon it, are ignorant of the spirit of the constitution of the empire of which they form a part. But how much more ignorant of the power of the British government must be any set of men who in these days conspire to overthrow it by force ! These foolish fellows of the Phoenix Society, for instance : how utterly unaware they must have been of the magnitude of the task they proposed to themselves ! Give them a I klfpenny squib and tell them to go and blow up Carran Tuohill and the Reeks, and they would have laughed at you. And yet that would really be a more reasonable proposal than one to shake the all-pervading power of the British Empire (which embraces the whole earth, against which a union of all nations of the earth would I Dot ultimately prevail) by means of a Phoenix Society ^ a regiment of American filibusters. Would it not be well, for the sake even of these poor 5i8 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. foolish fellows themselves, that some more visible an tangible representation of the mere physical power ( the empire should be placed here and there about In land, than the few constabulary and coastguard station which at present do that duty ? We are spending vas sums of money in fortifying some points of the coast c England. A little of that expenditure extended to Ik land would be both an immediate benefit to the indus trious part of the population in the employment af forded, and its results would be permanently beneficial in rendering the very notion of revolt manifestly ridi culous. There might, indeed, come a time when a fev strongholds might be useful against the foreigner ; bii in the mean time they would be most advantageous ii giving an alteration to the tone of the Irish mind, bi showing that Ireland was neither neglected, nor de spised, nor treated with less favour than England ; anc the idea that she is so is very prevalent. You will, indeed, hardly meet an Irishman who ii his heart does not believe, not only that Ireland wasun fairly and unjustly treated formerly, but that the Eng lish government and people have still a spite towards Ireland, and that she is unfairly and unjustly treated down to the present time, although they do not find it easy to * condescend to particulars,' as the Scotch say. Now, if any unfairness has been practised during the last twenty or thirty years, it has been manifestly ESTRANGEMENT OF THE IRISH. 519 the other way, Ireland having been rather unfairly petted, perhaps, by the English government, though no Englishman would, I am sure, complain of that, if it would in any way contribute to obliterate the remem- brance of the past and to produce cordiality for the fu- ture. No one can read the history of Ireland and wonder thai such a feeling of alienation from England should exist among the Irish people. We are, however, too apt to suppose that, because the operating cause of such feeling has been during the presont generation with- drawn, therefore the effects of its past action should immediately cease. * The sins of the fathers shall be visited on the children, even to the third and fourth generation,' may be taken as a great political axiom ; and three or four generations must yet pass by before the national wounds, now barely sldnned over, shall become completely healed, nor should we be surprised if the scar is never wholly effaced. I cannot help look- ing upon the viceroyalty of Ireland as one at least of the continuing causes that serve to keep up the memory • of the past, to perpetuate the feeling of distinct nation- ality, and thus act as irritants to retard the perfect healing of the old sores. This, however, is a part of the subject vrhich would lead me to trespass on yoar space to too great an extent. My object in this letter was simply to lay before you the result of my observa- tions on the state of feeling of the Irish people towards 520 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. the English government. If you will allow me to tres- pass on you again, I propose to confine my remarks to the social state of the people among themselves, and in the mean time am, sir, yours. Cosmopolite. Dec. 28, 1858. The State of Ireland. No. 2. To the Editor of the * Times.' Sir, — I wish now to turn your attention and that of your readers to the social condition of the people, and especially to the relations hetween landlord and tenant. Now, sir, no civilised man can do otherwise than execrate the cowardly and treacherous conduct of that part of the people which instigates secret assassination, and combines to protect the assassin. I say cowardly advisedly, because I believe a base and abject cowardice and want of manly feeling is at the root of it. There is a system of secret terrorism which could not exist if even one man had the courage and manliness to come openly and frankly forward, and at all risks to himself refuse to submit to it any longer, and, if needs be, publicly denounce those who attempted to enforce it. Not one man, it seems, dares do this. How seldom, indeed, one hears of a man in Ireland, of any rank or IRISH LANDLORDS AND TENANTS. 521 Cosmopolite. class, who dares to act independently and do what he thinks right, in defiance of the opinion of those around him! This fear of public opinion, this slavery to * Mrs. Grundy,' is one of the greatest defects of the Irish character ; and it is to that feeling of moral cowardice that is to be attributed the possibility of secret asso- ciations, whether Kibbon, or Orange, or Phoenix. While, then, we must abhor as well as deplore the feelings and the acts of the class of Irish tenants towards the class of landlords, I must say that I have arrived at the con- viction that it is in great part, if not wholly, the fault of the landlords themselves. That action and reaction are equal and in opposite directions, is an axiom equally good in morals as in physics. Let us briefly examine the action of landlords as a class. My own personal ohservatious were chiefly made in the south and centre of Ireland, but the description will, I believe, be more or less applicable throughout the country. I would premise here, that I do not impute blame to individuals nor to the present race of men. I speak of the system, the ordinary practice and custom, in which the present race, and their fathers and grandfathers, have been brought up. I speak also of the rule and custom, to which I am aware that exceptions are beginning to spring up more and more frequently ; but if we wish to ascertain the causes of things now generally in action, iiiir iiiii »i ' 522 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. we must look to the past rather than the present, since time is required for local action to have a general effect. Now the rule and custom in Ireland is, that the land- lord lets to the tenant, whether by the year or by lease, for a term of years the hare land, the tenant building his house as well as his barn and offices, such as he has, and not receiving one sixpence ii . m the landlord towards these very necessary parts of a farm. The landlord; I repeat, as a rule, merely allows the tenant to take possession of so much land, in the condition it may happen to be at the time, not only not building anything, but not even thinking of repairing anything that may be out of repair, or doing anything towards draining, fencing, manuring, or putting the farm into proper condition. Nothing struck me with more sur- prise, when I first came into Ireland, than this entire apathy on the part of the landowner. I recollect speak- ing of it to an old gentleman in the county of Cork, with whom I was spending an evening in 1851. He was a retired solicitor, having a small landed property, which had been his father's and grandfather's before him. An average kind-hearted man he seemed, neither better nor worse than his neighbours, and appeared to express merely the common sentiments of his class when, on my mentioning my surprise as above stated, he replied, * 0, tenants ! them, the scoundrels ! never do anything for them ; if you do, put up four rUKES. tlie present, since e a general effect, is, that the land- > year or by lease, 3 tenant building ffices, such as he ti^m the landlord of a farm. The allows the tenant n the condition it only not building epairing anything anything towards ing the farm into le with more sur- , than this entire I recollect speak- e county of Cork, ing in 1851. He 1 landed property, andfather's before le seemed, neither s, and appeared to ents of his class as above stated, the scoundrels! do, put up four IRISH LANDLORDS AND TENANTS. 523 mud walls for them. Let that be the outside you do ; they will only wreck and ruin your property.' Subse- quent inquiry and observation, continued down to the present time, have shown me that this sentiment, though not often perhaps so openly expressed, has been, and to much too great an extent still remains, the prevailing one among the landlord class towards the class of tenants. I have heard from good authority, and have even seen in print, statements as to the man- agement of lar;;^e estates, belonging to noblemen and others, in remote parts of the country that seem almost incredible, but which have, I fear, too large a founda- tion in truth. These statements go to the extent of saying, that it has been the practice to keep whole populations in complete ignorance as to their debts to their landlords, no tenant ever knowing how much was still owing, nor having anything to show how much was paid, occa- sional demands being sent out, seizures made, and cattle sold if the demands were not complied with ; but no balance ever struck, no receipts given, and no ac- counts rendered. Such things have been told me by respectable persons, who had no interest either one way or other in deceiving me. Can we wonder at a feeling of hostility existing between class and class when such things — whether actually true or not — are believed to be possible ? Even if there be a certain amount of D 524 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. exaggeration and misstatement in such extreme ac- counts, the general fact remains undoubted, that the, rights of the landowner are generally used to the utter- most, both in the amount of rent demanded and the method of exacting it, while his duties are seldom even thought of. I have myself known of two or three in- stances with respect to persons in a rank of life con- siderably above the mere peasant farmer — persons of small property, country practitioners, and the like- men, too, who were at least on speaking terms with the landlords of the houses and grounds they rented. These men, trusting to verbal promises and assurances, or relying vainly, as it has happened, on their knowledge of the landlord's supposed good-feeling towards them, have expended money in improving and beautifying their holdings ; and as soon as their improvements were complete, notice to quit was served on them, and either the rent raised, or the places taken and given to some friend of the landlord 07' his agent. Such instances may of course occur in England or anywhere else, but as exceptions only. Here in Ireland they 'seem to be the rule, and were spoken of by others as a matter of course, the sufferer only pleading in excuse for his folly, * 0, I thought he would not have done it to me, after what he said when I,' &c. &c. Now, if such things arc unblushingly done to men who could, if they chose, make their complaints heard, have we not too much IRISH LANDLORDS AND TENANTS. 525 reason to put faith in the statements of sysi raatic oppression and cruelty of which we have only the rumour from a class cut off, by their ignorance and their want of confidence, from all intimate communication from those above them ? I have no wish to use high- flown phrases about the ' finest pisantry on earth,' and so on — I know their faults as well as their good qualities : their want of truth, their want of honesty and candour, the absence of all trustworthiness either in their word or their deed ; but are not these faults the very results we should expect to find in any race of men who have for centuries been treated as an inferior race, as a lower order for whom any treatment is good enough, with whom no friendly communication or intercourse is to be held, who are regarded as a servum pecus, whose only use in life is to minister to the wants and plea- sures of their masters ? You will observe that, when speaking of the * landlord class,' I make no distinction of creed, or party, or race. So far as I can make out, the Catholic landlords are as bad as, if not worse than, the Protestant — the old families certainly worse than the new — worse absolutely in their treatment of their ten- ants and dependents, and still worse relatively, because tlie people submit to them more tamely and completely, and take worse treatment from them without murmur- ing, than they would from others, and become therefore more degenerate and degraded. I 526 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I do not pause here to inquire into the many aiul various causes which have led to this utter estrange- ment between class and class. I merely wish to de- scribe the actual fact, and to show to your readers the extent to which that estrangement has proceeded, aud the kind of feelings which the superior classes enter- tain towards the inferior, and the treatment which they ordinarily give them. The feeling is universal. It may be detected even in the treatment adopted and the tone used towards domestic servants and other depend- ents ; but its most baneful influence is felt in the relations between landlords and tenants. Can this alien- ation exist only on one side ? If the landlords as a class — even those who reside on their property — stand aloof from the tenantry, and if their only connection with them be as hard exactors of rent — of rent so high as often to leave only the most miserable chance of existence to their tenantry — can we wonder that the latter look upon the former as a hostile class; that a common feeling, an csi^rit de corps, unites the peasantry on the one side, as well as their lords and masters on the other ; and that the peasant feels bound to * stand by his order,' even in acts which he individually disap- proves ? Can we wonder, too, that men, individually kind and estimable, fall victims to the feelings of hostility with which their class is regarded? When two hostile armies meet in the field, how is it possible IRISH LANDLORDS AND TENANTS. 527 for each to weigh the individual merits of their enemies? The esprit de corps, when once prevalent, overrules all individual considerations even among the best of us. There is nothing anomalous or exceptional in the unfortunate state of feeling among the Irish farmers and peasantry (there is no distinction in Ireland between these two classes) ; it is simply human nature. Place any other race of men in the same circumstances, and you will get similar results, varying only according to minor variations in the constitution of the race. Those circumstances are not the offspring of laws, nor can the evil be cured by legislation. The only cure must be an alteration in the habits and manners of the people, and that alteration must commence with the landlord class. I have often been puzzled to make out how the resident gentry in the south of Ireland pass their time. They inhabit spacious mansions, secluded ill wide and beautiful demesnes, that are encircled by walls ten and twelve feet high, with overhanging coping- stones. They seem to live in a sort of strenuous idle- ness within these walls, and only pass beyond them in pursuit of field-sports, or when visiting the neighbour- ing gentry, or going a journey. There is no school- superintendence, no visiting of sick or distressed neigh- bours, no hearty chats with farmers or their families, no persons coming to * the house' for assistance or advice, no parish business — in short, no intercourse or com- liiiii 528 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. munion with the people outside the wall and the gate except casually and accidentally. There are no count cricket-matches as in England, no curling - matches a in Scotland, where all ranks mix for the time on equa terms. If the young resident gentlemen happen t( have any intercourse with any of the neighbouring lads, it is only as patron on the one side and as fawn ing parasitical flatterers and hangers-on on the other Not unfrequently may be seen, up to the very gate-lodge of the domain, a line, on each side of the road, of the most wretched tumble-down houses or reeking cabins, such as no English proprietor would allow on the most secluded part of his estate, if but for their very unsight- liness. Even with the lesser gentry, whose houses are not so fenced-in from the commonalty, the intercourse between them and the surrounding peasantry is equally stiff, formal, and casual, with no cordiality on either side, but with a careless air of superiority on the one, and something approaching to servility on the other. Go where you will, you find not only this complete separation between the class of the landed proprietors and the rest of the community, but you look in vain for any effort on the part of the gentry to assist or to im- prove the condition of the peasantry, to sympathise with them in any way whatever, to alleviate their dis- tresses, or even to pretend to notice them and be sorry for them. So used are the peasantry to this entire IRISH AGENCY SYSTEM. 529 absence of all sympathy on the part of their superiors, that if any one in the garb of a gentleman or lady en- ters their cabins, either for charitable purposes or for mere conversation, they seem puzzled and confounded, find rather inclined to be suspicious of the motives of their visitor. I could expatiate to a much greater length on the social condition of the people, and give many curious anecdotes in illustration of it ; but I forbear out of regard for your space, and will in my next letter en- deavour to point to one at least of the causes of this deplorable state of things. — I am, sir, yours, Cosmopolite. Dec. 30, 1858. The State of Ireland. No. 3. To the Editor of the' Times' Sir, — Any one reading my last letter might natu- rally conceive of the Irish landed gentry and their class that they were a hard, severe, haughty, and repulsive set of people. He could not possibly make a greater mistake. As a class they are remarkable for their kind- beartedness, their courtesy towards any one who is en- titled in any way to be considered their equal, their , indulgence towards their inferiors, their genial cordiality id good-nature. You rarely meet among them any of MM m lar: ;, ; 530 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. that * landed manner' which Sydney Smith spoke of as characterising the landed gentry of England — that cold exclusiveness and repulsive condescension which, at a country dinner-party in England often makes you long to get two or three of the squires and haronets in the backwoods, and teach them their own value. Personally and individually the Irish gentry, if not quite so con- scientious as they might be, are at least a more lovable race, who, if they had not been brought up to think much of their pleasures and little of their duties, would at least be personally incapable of cruelty and harsh- ness. How is it, then, you may ask, that so much harshness and so much cruelty exist in their general treatment of the tenant class as accounts for, if it does not palliate, the innate and organised hostility of the one class to the other ? This mutual feeling of repul- sion arises, doubtless, from many circumstances, which must be sought in the past history of that country— a long chain of events reaching back to a period even long before the Norman invasion, when its real history commences. There is, however, one cause still in ex- istence which is a most efficient one, if not in originat- ing, at least in continuing, this repulsion. This cause is the system of agency which is universal in Ireland, Ireland itself is governedby a viceroy ; the lard of Ire- land is managed by vice-oivners and vice-masters. I believe there is now in Ireland no class of persons more IRISH AGENCY SYSTEM. 531 pernicious as a class than the agents who naanage and administer and are masters of the land, though they do not own it. The acres in Ireland which are not in the hand of an agent are few and far between. These agents are younger sons or nephews of landlords, retired or half-pay officers, briefless barristers, solicitors, broken gentry who, having lost their own estates, are of course the fittest persons to manage those of others, or lastly, persons who have been bred and brought up as agents, imd have never had the pretence of any other occupa- tion. They are not mere law agents, to look after the deeds, the leases, or the encumbrances of the estate ; still less are they mere stewards or accountants, who at stated times receive the rents, and account for them to the landlord, reporting any deductions that ought to be made for repairs, losses, &c. They are not represented by any class of men that exist in England. They are virtually the masters of the properties for which they are called agents, removable individually doubtless at the will of the owner, but to 1)6 succeeded only by other masters or vice-masters of exactly the same kind. The agent acts as if the pro- perty were his own, except that he hands over a certain balance of rent to the real owner. He grants leases or not, as he likes ; he alone visits the property, he alone sees the tenantry. All petitions and complaints are addressed to him. In many cases the agent has money 532 LETTERS OF J. DEETE JUKES. I capital of his own, and advances the rent to the owner, having then to reimburse himself, principle and interest, from the tenants. In these cases the agent becomes practically irresponsible to and irremovable by his em- ployer. It is not only the great absentee proprietors who keep agents. In their case a vice-master is per- haps unavoidable, and may, if he be well selected, be even a benefit. But the resident gentry have equally their agents ; gentry residing in other parts of Ireland, and gentry even residing on their own property, and perhaps rarely leaving it. They take no part in the management of their estate, but hand it all over to the agent, to manage and deal with as he sees fit, referring eyery one who may attempt to transact business with them, to him. Nei- ther is it the large estates only that are managed by agency, but j,ll estates almost without exception. There would seem something in the very ownership of land iu Ireland that renders a man incapable of managing it, although it sometimes happens that the very man wbo is agent for other persons has land of his own, which another agent manages for him. In order to form some idea of the extent to which this system is carried, I may mention the following fact : A clergyman — an old friend of miut>, an English- man, but educated and long settled iu Ireland — not long ago had a living given him theie, to which there was IRISH AGENCY SYSTEM. 533 the extent to wliicli ition the following f mine, au Englisli- u Ireland— not long to which there was attached about 150 acr^s of glebe. As soon as he came into possession, he was immediately canvassed for the agency, the friends of the existing agent hoping that he would be retained, while one or two other candidates sent their friends to him to try and get it. 'Agent!' said my friend, laughing at these applications, * what do you suppose I want with an agent ? Don't you think I could myself undertake the management of a few acres of land, none of which is more than half a mile from my own door?' On which he was assured that he would find it quite impossible ; that he would find it much too troublesome ; that he would be pestered by applications from the tenants for this thing and that thing ; that he would never be able to get the rent ; and so on. Paying very little regard to these assurances, my friend cheerfully assumed the terrific responsibilities of the management of this awful extent of property, and never had the least reason to repent of it. Wlien I visited him some little time ago, he said that., although his three tenants were Catholics, and although he had rather altered thv^ir holdings, taking a little more land into his own occupation, ana so on, he had never had the least difficulty in the matter. Frank personal intercourse and arrangements be- tween principals, where the human electricity of tone aud manner and look assures each party of the honest 534 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. intentions and kind upright feeling of the other, worked in this case the same effect as in others, and made ar- rangements easy, which, if hampered and muffled and stiffened by intermediate agency, might have led to diplomatic discussions and suspicions, and perhaps to angry dissensions. I know of other instances. A Catholic gentleman, a friend of mine, has an estate where he never resides nor ever thought of residing, nor do I know that there is a gentleman's residence on it. He employs no agent, but just runs down twice a year to the neighbourhood to receive his rents, and he has often told me that he never had the least difficulty; that he sends word when he is coming, and the tenants come to the hotel and pay him as cheerfully, apparently, as he receives it. So confident do I feel in the effects of personal intercourse between the owners and tenants of land, that if I were to come into possession of an estate in any part of Ireland — even where Ribbonism were at his worst — I would undertake to go down; and if I escaped for the fi^'^t week or two, or till I had time to make acquaintance with the people, would promise that in six months not a Ribbonman would dare to put his foot on the property. But I would have no agent— no, not the best and kindest man that ever stepped. Men with the best intentions will do things, or will not do them, when acting as agent for another. IRISH AGENCY SYSTEM. 535 that they would be ashamed to do, or not to do, if act- ing for themselves. Men, too, will allow things to be done for them by others, or will not actively interfere to pre rent their being done, that they never have thought of doing for themselves. Even the very feeling of duty may be warped under these circumstances, since the agent may think his duty towards his employer constrains him to be over strict on the one hand, and the employer may think it his duty to support his agent, and not to interfere with him in the execution of a difficult task. Even then, when owner and agent are above the average of humanity, the system of universal agency, where it goes to the extent of divesting the owner of all sense of duty and responsibility towards his tenantry and dependents, is a most pernicious one, calculated only to deteriorate the character and sap the morality of all concerned, and utterly to destroy the ties which should bind the inhabitants of one country by one common feeling of mutual allegiance and fidelity to each other. But we know very well that men above the average of humanity must be rare, that there are many not above, and that there are some — alas ! too many — below it. On such men the pernicious influence just now mentioned must act with more and more force in proportion to their want of high feeling, and render almost certain to occur the very acts which one hears of so freq^uently. 536 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. 1^ % Acts of rascality and fraud towards employers on the one hand, and of oppression, partiality, injustice, and cruelty towards the tenantry on the other, are more often talked about than mentioned in the papers, and are doubtless more often practised than they are talked about. These glaring and obvious evils, however, of the * agent' system are by no means the limit and ex- tent of the injury done by it. The great injury to so- ciety is the very existence of the system itself— the existence of a great barrier wall separating class from class, rendering all sense of common feeling between them impossible, depriving the one class of all chance of performing those ordinary duties of protection, ad- vice, encouragement, and guidance which the superior in wealth, intelligence, and power owes to the inferior class, and repressing or poisoning at their source all that flow of gratitude, of reverence, of trust and confidence, of attachment strengthened by early association and old recollection, of which Nature has implanted in no race a more abundant spring than in the breast of an Irish- man. No one has less faith than I have in a ' nostrum.' Long-established evils must necessarily have had many causes and require many remedies and long treatment ; but T believe that no one thing would be more effica- cious in the regeneration of Ireland than the abolition of the agency system. If my voice could reach the owners of land in Ireland, I would say to them all, 1 JUKES. IRISH AGENCY SYSTEM. 537 employers on the ity, injustice, and 3 other, are more n the papers, and lan they are talked evils, however, of the limit and ex- great injury to so- system itself — the arating class from )n feeling between class of all chance ! of protection, ad- ^vhich the superior es to the inferior heir source all that st and confidence, association and old iplanted in no race breast of an Irish- ave in a 'nostrum.' ily have had many d long ireatment ; Id be more effica- than the abolition could reach the say to them all, 'Dismiss your agents; act for yourselves. If your property be so large and your residence so distant as to make an agent necessary, let him be an agent only ; but never suffer any men to take your place, or to do your duty as master. Come and see and judge and act for yourselves, if it be but once in five years, or even in ten. Let your tenants see you, know you, hear your voice, and feel your hand ; let them have access to you freely, either in person or by letter. Act thus, and you ueed fear nothing from them, either in person or in purse.' I have thus attempted, sir, in these letters to give you in as brief a form as possible the result of my own observations during the last eight years in Ireland, and of my reflections upon them. For the present I will not farther intrude upon you, but remain your obliged and obedient servant, Cosmopolite. Dec. n, 1858. it m GEOLOGICAL CONTROVERSIES, AND CONCLUSION. 1859-1869. GEOLOGICAL CONTROVERSIES, AND CONCLUSION. 1859-1869. Controversy on changes of climate — Addi'ess to Britisli Association at Cambridge — Discussion on mode of formation of mountain chains and valleys — Lecture on coal-measures at Birmingham —Royal commission on coal — Address with account of geolo- gical survey — Letters to relatives — Original views on Devonian rocks, and letters to Professor Ramsay on the subject — Ac- cumulation and pressure of work — Its inevitable result accel- erated by a fall — Gradual failure of health — The shadow of the end — Journey to Cauterets — Attempt to resume work in the north of Ireland — Release by death. In 1860 a friendly controversy was carried on, in the pages of the Athenceum, on the question of the ' changes of climate in the different regions of the earth.' It was commenced by Sir Henry James, who considered that variations in climate were due to ' a constant change in the position of the axis of the earth's rotation.' His views were opposed by Professor Airy on astronomical, and by Mr. Jukes on geological, grounds. hi 1862 the British Association met in Cambridge, kliere Mr. Jukes presided over the geological section, iQd delivered an address which has been already alluded ho. The subject of it was ' The externil Features of 542 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. II the Earth's Surface, and the raethod of formation i those variations which we call mountains, hills, tab! lands, cliflfs, precipices, ravines, glens, valleys, an plains.' After showing that these features are main] due to the erosive action of the ocean, the rain, aud tl atmosphere, and fully adopting Professor Eamsay's the recent explanation of the formation of mountain lake he thus concludes : ' Allow me to remark how curious! the threefold physical agencies that are in simultaneoii operation on the crust of the glohe, were typified in tli old heathen mythology. The atmosphere which env( lopes the land and rests upon the sea, the ocean wliic fills up the deeper hollows of the earth's surface, an the nether-seated source of heat and force that lies b( neath the crust of the earth, are each personified in as a great divinity. If one of the old Greek poets "wei to revisit and clothe these ideas in his own imagery, \ would tell us in sonorous verse of Zeus (or Jupiter), tli god of the air, ruling all things upon the land with li; own absolute and pre-eminent power ; of Poseidon (( Neptune) governing the depths of the ocean, but sbakin the shores which encircle it ; and of Hades (or Plutc coi: fined to his own dark regions below, tyrannisiu with all the sternness of a force irresistible by anythiu which can there oppose it, but rarely manifesting itse by any open action within the realms of the other d vinities." FORMATION OF THE EARTH'S SURFACE. 543 Similar views were enunciated by Mr. Jukes in a paper on * River Valleys in the South of Ireland,' pub- lished in the Quarterly Journal of the Geological So- ciety of the year 1862. In 1864 a discussion arose between Dr. Hugh Fal- coner and Mr. Jukes on the ' Mode of Formation of Mountain Chains and Valleys/ and several letters passed between them in the Reader — Dr. Falconer taking up the old hypothesis of 'great upheavements of the ground,' and ' vast perpendicular fissures' caused thereby, Mr. Jukes arguing for their formation by the gradual rising of large tracts of land and subsequent erosion by ex- ternal action. On his opponent's bringing many well- known geological names to bear against him, Mr. Jukes replies : ' I am quite conscious of the weight of author- ity against the views which I advocate, and more espe- cially that I am in this matter, and almost in this matter only, now compelled to depart somewhat from the Cambridge teaching of my dear old master. Pro- fessor Sedgwick. If I can venture to dissent from him, my audacity is not likely to meet with any greater trial. But I am also aware that my present views have never been without good authority on their side, and the number and weight of those who, like myself, are 30W adopting them seem to be greatly on the increase.* Such discussions as these were always carried on W Mr. Jukes in the most fair and friendly spirit, with IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ ilM IIIIIM l56 IB 12,2 ii IIM 11 m M 1.8 U III 1.6 -I V] '<^. e: e: c'^. ^y /I A, / w M Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 J^. W^ % V :\ V \ ^9> V %^ < - ^ 6^ w\^ <^ ^' 544 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. the sole purpose of arriving at the right solution of any scientific problem ; and he took great pleasure in the thought that ' the contentions and discussions of geolo- gists have almost ever been kept down to mere means of eliciting the sparks of truth, by the collision of vari- ous intellects.' At the meeting of the British Association in Bir- mingham in 1865, Mr. Jukes was requested to give the general lecture on a subject most appropriate to the time and place, viz. the coal-measures of South Staf- fordshire. Great interest was then excited as to the exhaustion of that coal-field, and he urged at the con- clusion of his address * the great importance of an ac- curate knowledge of the extent and position of the coal-fields which we know lie somewhere beneath the red rocks of the Midland counties, and that such an exploration ought to be undertaken at the national ex- pense,' he having previously shown that the coal must certainly lie at an immense depth, and that it was only by a combination of large proprietors that such a work could otherwise be undertaken. Soon afterwards a royal commission was appointed to inquire into the probable duration of our coal-fields. Mr. Jukes was a member of this commission, and at- tended several meetings ; but the results of the inquiry had not been reported when his health gave way. In 18S6 Mr. Jukes delivered an address on the JUKES. Jilt solution of any it pleasure in the 3cussions of geolo- ?7n to mere means e collision of vari- Lssociation in Bir- requested to give appropriate to the res of South Staf- excited as to the urged at the con- iportance of an ac- d position of the ivhere beneath the and that such an at the national ex- lat the coal must and that it was ietors that such a lion was appointed of our coal-fields, mmission, and at- ults of the inquiry ,h gave way. a address on the ACCOUNT OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 545 occasion of the distribution of prizes by the Marquis of Abercorn to the successful students at the Museum of Irish Industry. In this address an account is given of the Geological Survey, and its connection with the Museum. It was afterwards published, and it is to the notes then added that it is here desired to direct special attention, since they relate to matters in them- selves important, and afford an excellent specimen of the fearless honesty of speech which distinguished their writer. The address was thus commenced : * I have been requested by Sir K. Kane, the director of this institution, to lay before you some account of the Geological SuiTey : its history, its mode of opera- tion, and its connection with the Museum of Irish Industry. I gladly avail myself of this opportunity to bring under your notice a great national work, which has now been in operation for more than twenty years ; labouring under many diflBculties and much discour- agement, but still continuing to labour on, in the hope that its utility would ultimately be recognised and its value proved by the best of all tests — that of results ohtained. * Let me at once guard myself by saying that I do not mean solely or chiefly money value, or what is called practice! utility. The cost of the survey will ultimately be repaid to the nation either in actual gain, NN 54<5 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. or in the saving of fruitless expenditure, and peril repaid ten times over. But I should be false to own convictions if I did not rate intellectual gain a far higher value than any material profit, and did : put the scientific results of the survey of the heavi and the earth, carried on by the Eoyal Observatoi and her Majesty's Geological Survey, far before tl practical application to navigation and mining.' The following is the note to these observations: * Men of science have of late years pandered too mi to the utilitarian quackery of the age, and it is ti that some one should stand u^ to protest against Government and the House of Commons should told that Science must be supported and encouraged her own purely abstract purposes, independently of utilitarian applications. The necessary preliminary, deed, to these utilitarian applications is the disccT and establishment of abstract scientific truth, by men \ look to that alone, and whose whole faculties and li are devoted to it. The men who afterwards make practical applications of it often attain, indeed, far wi reputations than the real men of science, and bec( to the popular gaze the representatives of science its The higher class are rarely much known to the pu during their lives, and are not usually men who wo experience any satisfaction if they were named knigl or labelled with C.B., or would feel inclined to ace QUACKERY AND TRUE SCIENCE. 547 any other crumbs that might fall from the table of the politically great and powerful. Nor would they com- monly care much for pecuniary rewards, unless as a means for enabling them to do their work without drudging for the support of themselves or their families. They are the men, however, who in the end rule the world ; and doubtless they are often sustained in their labours by a consciousness of this fact. It would man- ifestly conduce to the public good and the national lionour if such men, when they do arise among us, should be sought out, recognised as public benefactors, and allowed means to do that work which their faculties, and theirs only, enable them to perform. ' In the mean while the public may insist that all [latitude and facilities be given, in the public scientific institutions, for the carrying on of scientific research, however abstract and remote from practice it may ap- pear to the unscientific intelligence. At present the various authorities under whom scientific public ser- vants have to act too often take as their model the |cautious and conscientious parent who required his boy know how to swim before he let him go into the hater. It is want of knowledge of the real nature and ect of scientific museums that causes the House of ICommons and the Government to test their value by jtlie number of people who visit them, and the worth of [scientific lectures by the number of students who attend ■ I 548 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. them. In each case numbers may be a hindrance their proper use, and actually tend to prevent even t utilitarian application of them which is so much tal about and so little understood. The test of the num of visitors must indeed be applied to such a museun that of South Kensington, where the ad captam principle is avowed, since it shows whether or no avowed principle has been successful. But from a entific museum all appeals to the mere taste or sentiments should be carefully excluded, and the absti intelligence alone addressed. The one museum adii an object because it is pretty, or at all events beca it is curious ; all mere prettiness and all mere curii ties should be as far as possible kept out of the otl The South Kensington Museum exhibits artificial \ ducts, * the work of men's hands,' the most attractivi them being objects of mere ornamentation. The sci fiic collections of the British Museum contain the wc of Nature — a term I use as a reverential periphrasis a higher name. When scientifically arranged, t exhibit to the trained intelligence that other revelat of which men of science are the ministers and in preters. ... * As to the lecture system attached to our inst tions, large numbers of students were not cent plated; neither, if they came, is there a demand their services in the world. The value of the UTILITARIAN SPIRIT CENSURED. 540 however, whom we hope to train will certainly be felt in this and the succeeding generations to have amply repaid the cost of that part of our institutions, though it can never appear in a ** return," or be put into a *' re- Ittached to our institu] its were not contem^ lis there a demand foi Che value of the fe^l * The sole question for the statesman to ask is, as it appears to me, " Is the instruction given sound and real ? Is it adapted to answer a worthy and legitimate end?" If the answer be in the affirmative, he may, I think, safely and wisely leave it to time to attain that end. I should in such a case appeal to the " wisdom of our ancestors," and ask whether they were actuated by the narrow, shoit-sighted, utilitarian spirit which the present generation boasts of, when they founded our I public schools, and the colleges in our universities, all the grand educational establishments on which I so much of our national greatness is based. In my I own college, St, John's, Cambridge, a sum of more than 600O/. is every year shared, from one source or another, among the undergraduate students, in addition to the revenues of the Fellows and Master of the College. The other sixteen colleges are similarly provided for, ac- Icording to their size. Oxford has still larger resources ; pe University of Dublin is richly endowed ; and when add Eton, Westminster, Harrow, Rugby, Shrews- fury, and all the other wealthy educational establish- Dents, we shall begin to have some idea of the vast S50 LETTERS OF y. BEETE JUKES. means given by our forefathers for the advancem and dissemination of the learning and science of tl day, and the niggardliness of the present generation comparison. ***But,"some person maysay, '' these establishmei were not paid for out of the taxation of the countr What does that matter ? They were established by much of the national wealth being set aside for purpose. If private persons do not now come forws with their contributions, and if our sovereigns a princes have been deprived of the means of doing ; and their resources absorbed into the public purse, it not the duty of the guardians of that purse to ta care that the national greatness suffer no diminutii at their hands ? They may jealously guard against i wasteful expenditure, but they should not imitate tl miserly farmer who impoverishes his land, because 1 shrinks from the expense of draining and manu ing it.' In another note Mr. Jukes says : * So little seems to be known of the origin ai nature of our institutions, even by the authorities und whom they have subsequently been placed, that in tl appendix to the tenth Report of the Department i Science and Art (for 1863), in a special report madf I my Lord Granville, Sir C. Trevelyan, and the Kigl Hon. R. Lowe, the Geological Survey, the School < 'E JUKhS. STRICTURES ON OFFICIAL REPORT. 551 'or the advancement \ and science of their present generation in ' these estahlishments tion of the country." ^ere established by so ing set aside for the lot now come forward ' our sovereigns and e means of doing so, > the public purse, is of that purse to take suffer no diminution asly guard against all ould not imitate the his land, because he I Iraining and manur- |s : In of the origin and Ithe authorities under' In placed, that in the the Department of )ecial report made by llyan, and the Right! lurvey, the School ofj Mines, and the Mining Kecord Office are said to have been gradiudly connected together as one institution. ' Now, as they all originated simultaneously in one man's mind, and have been developed together as one system, with a tendency perhaps towards separation, but have never yet been separated, the phrase gradu- ally connected together as one Institution always struck me as n- very curious version of the truth. But there are what I think more serious errors in that report than mere careless expressions ; one is the very com- mon mistake, that there is an inferior kind of science good enough for practical purposes ; and the other, that our institutions can be made self-supporting. * The report speaks of "touching on chemistry, gene- ral mechanics, physics, and natural history only so far as is required for mining purposes." Such a half-and- balf scheme would be exactly the one adapted for the production of half-educated quacks, with just a sufficient smattering of knowledge to lead themselves and their employers into all .sorts of expensive blunders, which it is the very object of our institutions to put an end to. ' Even in chemistry, if I am rightly informed, it is no longer possible to make the distinction between organic and inorganic chemistry, and any one who wishes to know the true nature of minerals will have to make himself master of organic chemistry, and the principles and nomenclature derived from it. It may 552 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. i i! be, from the researches of organic chemistry that \ ma3'- at length be enabled to understand the phenomei even of mineral veins. As to the " self-supportii dodge" (for I can call it by no more respectful name when the Government and Parliament are prepared pass an Act providing that no one shall practise as mining captain, or engineer, or manager, overlook overseer, or ground bailiff of any mine of any descri tion, without first passing through a recognised Scho of Mines, and getting its certificate of competency, thi may begin to think of making such schools self-su porting. * The School of Mines in Jermyn - street, and tl School of Science applied to Mining and the Arts Dublin, are really only missionary efforts to try ai induce our miners to gain a little more scientific kno ledge, and thus enable them, among other things, impart to us geologists a little more of the knowled which is only to be gained in mining, in terms whi shall be mutually intelligible. When this interchan of knowledge and experience really takes place, we shi begin to create some of that farther knowledge also, which we are both at present destitute ; and the or way to acquire that is, either to turn some geologis into miners, or induce some miners to become gee gists. * Just at present there is this difference between i VALUE OF MINING SCHOOLS. 553 that geologists know and avow tlieir own ignorance, while miners are too often quite unaware of theirs. This was the reason of the failure of the enlightened plans of the late Sir C. Lemon, who offered to provide 10,OOOZ. out of his own pocket, if the mining interest of Cornwall and Devon would give an equal sum, for the formation of a mining school there. Had the plan been adopted thirty years ago, the mining districts of the west of England might perhaps have been spared the failure of their resources and the general distress which is said to be now spreading over them.' iiflference between us, The following are extracts from the few and hasty letters written to the editor or her husband during the years 1864-1867: DuhUn, Ajiiil 15, 1864. Dear Cara, — I send you a bLndle oi Readers ^ con- taining the beginning of the war and Falconer's letters. % last will appear in the Reader to-morrow. Falconer is a very good fellow; very clever, very genial and kind-hearted, and everybody likes him. We are perfectly good friends all the time, as the enclosed note from him will show, if you can read it. The secret of his pepperiness in public is, that for many years he was the acknowledged head of the scientific world in Calcutta, and accustomed to give law without contra- diction. ^i-' 554 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I knew perfectly well what ft fume my first letl would put him into, and was prepared accordingly, his first private letter to me about it, he said I h * come down on him like a squashed pumpkin,' and he really thought (with Murchison, Sedgwick, and m< of the old geologists) that our new ideas were not or heresies, but mere absurdities, he was indignant j cordingly. I know that almost all the oiJer fello think us crazy — as they considered my address to t Geological Section at Cambridge — but in the long r they will give in. . . . Biillin, Feb. 4, 18(i0. March 7 is the night fixed for reading my paper Devon. . . . We are getting still tremendous gales a storms of rain ; but I get a ride almost every day, whi keeps me going in spite of the work I have in hand. . The ' Fenians' seem to be blowing over, though sy pathy with them is very widely spread ; ninety-nine c of every hundred of the entire population of Ireland wholly with them, so far as detestation of Engli government is concerned. All ranks and classes, se( and parties, Orangemen, Protestants, Catholics, pries clergymen of the established Church, fellows of Trini College, as well as the peasantry, look on England FENIANS AND ORANGEMEN. 555 a foreign country ; on the English government as a foreign government, ruling Ireland hy no right but that of the strongest force ; and thoroughly convinced that, if it were possible, Ireland ought to be independent as a nation, with its own king or president, taking rank as an independent country like Belgium, for instance. People may laugh at the notion, but it is in the heart of every Irishman, high or low. Fenianism is merely an exaggerated expression of this universal feeling. . . . The reason why more men of that stamp were not mixed up with it was, that they saw the absurdity of it and its utter helplessness — not that they disapproved of it if there were any chance of its being carried out. Every oiift would have respected Irishmen more if the rebellion of '98 had been successful. It will take generations, and a total alteration of the mode of go- vernment, to make the Irish nation feel one with the English nation. . . . DuhUn, Dec. (5, 18()G. . . . You will have seen the talk of the Fenian row expected. The authorities are really alarmed, and the military fully expect disturbance ; but it is impossible to let the loyal subjects come forward and arm them- selves on account of the Orangemen. Their ferocious hatred of anything called Catholic is such, that, if once 556 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. the loyal subjects were allowed to make a demonsti tion, they who consider themselves the only loyal su jects would come forward and prove it by shooting { the ' Komans' they could catch sight of. was te ing a story the other day of an Orangeman on h death-bed, who was visited by a friend anxious abo his soul, who begged him, if he still preserved the rig faith, to make some sign or utter some words to assu him of it ; on which the dying man faintly whispere * D-d-damn the Pope !' to the great satisfaction of h friend. Maroli 14, 1867. I have been thinking of writing to you often lately but there has been such a succession of botheratioi pressing on me, I have hardly known which way \ turn. The Department of Science and Art -is a gre£ deal worse than any Fenian insurrection. They cool] suppress the office of director of our museum, dismij Sir R. Kane, and propose to govern us through a seen tary, one of their science inspectors. ... As to v/hat i to take place next Sunday, no one knows ; but th military authorities firmly believe there is much wor in store for them. There is a strong rumour that ^ are all to get up murdered next Monday morning, nevei theless Augusta, C, and Miss B. are making prepan tions to dance at St. Patrick's ball on Monday night. . . SURVEYING IN COUNTY MAYO. 557 The * Battle of Tallaght' took place within four miles of us, at which fourteen policemen routed several hundred Fenian shop-boys, ^^/ho left the country strewed with arms and ammunition. I rode out the next evening over the ground and up on to the hills, but could not see a Fenian ghost. An old farmer spoke of them as ' Fools, fools, fools!' About ten o'clock that night. Miss B. not having been on an outside car, I took her and C. on one all through Dublin to see the fun ; but we could not find any, and Miss B. declared Dublin to be dis- gustingly tranquil. ... I give my last lecture to-day, and contemplate a dash down a coal-pit in Staffordshire next 'veek. Castlehar, Go. Mayo, April 29, 1807. Your letter followed me here, where I am inspect- ing work in a more dreary miserable country than I think you could form any idea of without seeing it — miles of brown bog with low gravel mounds at inter- vals, occupied by wretched fields, separated by low stone walls, with large pools that are only approachable at intervals for boggy marshes, but are called lakes. This morning there is a howling wind and pelting rain, and I have to do thirty miles of that country on an outside car, with only a dirty ill-kept public-house, that calls itself a hotel, at the end of it. Such is my country life in Ireland, and I have now been a month at that work. 558 LETTERS OF y. BEETE JUKES. I shall be in Staffordshire some time in May, but everj thing is at sixes and sevens on the survey, so that can't tell. ... I shall be heartily glad when I can e? cape with a pension. . . . 1-l Upper Leeson-street, DuhVn July 14, 1807. We were greatly shocked by the death otMr. Schok field. I thought him looking rather better than h had been when I was in town last. Our plans sti depend for their execution on South Kensington, bu some time in August I hope to get away into DevoD shire with O'Kelly, to go on with my Devonian investi gations. ... I see no chance of any real holiday fo the next four years, except that my field-work is change from that indoors. I am at work now ever day from six a.m. to eleven at the third edition of m Studcufs Manual, and then till five o'clock p.m. at tli office on maps, &c. . . . Dartmouth, Aug. 2H, 1807. I have been for a fortnight in South Devon wit Mr. O'Kelly, one of our Irish staff, hard at work on tli Devonian rocks, about which I am at war with all tli geological world, and shall have to astonish them sti: more before I have done. We arc l)othered with re SOUTH KENSINGTON INTERFERENCES. 559 gattas, which interfere with the hotels and upset our arrangements. We go to-morrow to Torcross and Start Point, and expect to be in Plymouth on Sunday ; then on to East Looe in Cornwall, and so back to Dublin about the middle of September. We have here rocky cliffs and crags three times as high as yours, and grand woods down to the water's edge, and the whole country a mass of hills and wooded dells, with trout-streams running into tidal rivers, and the sea clear enough to see the rocks under a fathom of water. However, I don't want to make you envious. ontli, Aug. 2H, IHOT. South Devon witli hard at work on tlie at war with all the astonish them still D bothered with re- Diihlin, 8ept. 8, 1807. I had to get home in a great hurry from Falmouth, and got a great tumblification round the Land's End. Our lords and masters at South Kensington have cap- sized everything, and introduced so many alterations and botherations, that I feel like a cork under a cata- ract. I landed at six thir: morning, and find letters From Augusta that say she is well and enjoying her- •^ sf with E. Y. in a chateau in Brittany, where, how- ever, they see no strangers, except a troop of poor people, sick of fever and ague, who ccmo. to 1)6 doctored with quinine by Alice Forbes. I fancy that is some- thing new in French country life. Dublin looks dread- fully dull ; but I have work in the field, and shall only 56o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. be here a day or two. . . . W is not at all one those whom I spoke of as not being gentlemen. He one of Nature's gentlemen, and a most trustworthy m in every respect. The few remaining letters to Professor Earns dwell chiefly upon the topic to which Mr. Jukes d voted much thought during the last few years of h life, viz. the classification or grouping of the rocks North Devon and West Somerset. As he was firn) convinced that he had found in the south-west of Ir land the key to the difficulties of that problem, he ei deavoured to bring his views before the scientific wor by papers read to the geological societies of Dublin an London, and to secure the attention of his scientifi brethren by having these papers printed separate] m extciiso, and transmitted to every member of tl two societies. With the untiring pursuit^of truth b which he was always characterised, he had worked a this question in every interval he could snatch fror his duties in Ireland ; and there is little doubt that hi anxiety and labour to solve it, and to place his view on record, greatly contributed to overtask those powers which had been already too severely tried. Not tlia the papers in which he discusses the subject evince an; failure of mental energy — on the contrary, they ar among the clearest and most powerful of his writings- E JUKES. GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 561 is not at all one of I gentlemen. He is .ost trustworthy man » Professor Eamsay rhich Mr. Jukes de- ast few years of his ping of the rocks in . As he was firioly le south-west of Ire- that problem, he en- e the scientific world cieties of Dublin and tion of his scientific printed separately ery member of the pursuit^of truth by |d, he had worked at could snatch from little doubt that his d to place his views ^ertask those powers, [•ely tried. Not that e subject evince any contrary, they are ful of his writings- but each strain against the tide of dissent, together with the pressure of work, caused a greater reaction and subsequent exhaustion. He left his solution of the Devonian question as a legacy to the geological world, in full confidence that time ?nd farther research would prove it correct; a confidence sharer', by those who, though perhaps ignor- ant of its exact bearing, knew well with what industry and foresipfht he was wont to test any new geological theory before giving it to the world, how thoroughly and exhaustively he sifted the previously-known facts, and for what a length of time he had prosecuted his researches into this dim page of the earth's history. In the introductory statement to his Additional Mes in 1867, he says : * I have gone into the foregoing personal detail in order to show that my present attempt at putting straight the Devonian puzzle is not a hasty or ill-con- sidered one, but is the fulfilment of a long-cherished design, dating from the year 1852 at the latest, and that, in spite of the many necessary distractions im- posed by the conduct of the survey and the labours of my lectureship in Ireland, I have kept this purpose steadily in view ever since, and left unused no means of acquiring information respecting it that happened to present themselves. I expect* to be able to show that I the true Devonian rocks are everywhere synchronous 00 562 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. M with the Carboniferous Limestone, their palaeontologici differences depending upon habitat and iirovince, m upon time. ' Doubtless it may appear to some of very little cor sequence to the science of geology what rocks we in elude under this designation of "'Devonian." The wliol of our present nomenclature is so obviously provisiona and temporary, that it may hardly seem worth the trou ble to give it an exact signification. The terms Cam brian, Silurian, Devonian, Carboniferous, &c. are mere!} part of the scaffolding, useful in building the science geology, but no part of the structure itself, and wil doubtless be thrown aside by our successors as old lumber, just like the terms Greywacke, transition, &c. have been by ourselves. * It is, however, not the mere nomenclature I wish to correct, but to show that two distinct things have been confounded under one name, and that, by what- ever name it be called, the Old Red Sandstone is a group of rocks distinct from those which contain the marine Devonian fossils, and altogether below them. 'I would also wish to urge upon the attention of geologists, that there may have been two distinct con- temporaneous assemblages of animals in very close neighbourhood to each other, the one either sending *' colonies," as Barrande calls them, that is, temporary occupants, into the province inhabited by the other, or JUKES. GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 563 heir palaeontological \ and jiYomnce^ not le of very little con- what rocks we in- vonian." The whole ibviously provisional eem worth the trou- .. The terms Cam- rous, &c. are merely ilding the science of ,ure itself, and will • successors as old icke, transition, &c. else one set finally spreading over the other, and thus producing the appearance of absolute succession, and obscuring the fact of their long contemporaneity.* Mr. Jukes' arguments gained the a tention, if they (lid not bring conviction to the minds, of many eminent geologists, as was shown at the meeting of the British Association at Exeter, in 1869, when Professor Hark- ness presided over the Geological Section, and brought the subject prominently forward, taking occasion also to pay a graceful tribute to Mr. Jukes' memory, in speaking of * the earnest love of science and kindness of heart which so distinguished him and caused him to be beloved by all who had the pleasure of knowing him.' lomenclature I wisli istinct things have and that, by what- ed Sandstone is a which contain the ler below them. n the attention of 11 two distinct con- lals in very close one either sending that is, temporary ed by the other, or Taunton, Aug. 1, 180(5. My dear Ramsay, — From a letter received from Sir R. here, I find that they have not yet sanctioned the employment of the survey on the coal commission. It upsets my plans, because, if I am to do South Staffordshire, the end of this month and the rest of the autumn would be by far the most convenient time for me to do it in. One day more over the south end of the Quantocks will finish my work here, and I hope to reach Dublin on Friday morning. . . . There is one consideration I would put before you, which will per- haps make you look a little more cordially on my opera- 5<'4 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. ^^M|' li! tions here than you have hitherto appeared to do, som what to my disappointment. The consideration is thii that it shows the necessity for the survey o-" the Unit Kingdom being kept together as one body of men. I one could have made out the Irish and Scotch Siluriai till Wales had been done. In like manner no one cou make out Devon and Cornwall except by the aid of tl south-west of Ireland. My work here is of course most sketchy. It wou take a man three years to insert all the dips, determii which was the real boundary-line between the marii fossiliferous beds above, and the genuine Old Ked b low, and trace it through all its convolutions. I hav however, by the light of my Irish experience — an trusting to that alone, in spite of all changes of lith( logical character and other difficulties — made out thre great areas of genuine Old Ked Sandstone, covered i each case by corresponding masses of beds .(chiefly gre slates) containing marine fossils. These slates (whic are perhaps 5000 feet thick) you may call Devonian you like, or carboniferous slate, or whatever you please but they are clearly above and wholly above the Old Ee Sandstone, of which 3000 feet are shown at least, an Heaven knows how much more, for it undulates ovf considerable areas. Now, whoever re-surveys the west ( England, will have to take my present work as the ke to the puzzle and the basis of his operations, or els GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 565 he will have to spend a year or two in the south-west of Ireland, to learn his I sson where the rocks are clearly shown, and where they are free from the hedevil- ment of igneous rocks and mineral veins, which obscure them and alter them. The whole operation, then, ought to be under the general direction of one head, who could sanction this transference of a man from England to Ireland, and uce versa, Ireland, in fact, shows the old red plants better than either England or Scotland, though Scotland has some of these mingled with the fish remains (Coccos- teus, &c.). Ireland has a few of the fish remains mingled with the plants, and also has in one connected area, the change of type from the conglomeritic and soft Old Red Sandstone of South Wales to the slaty Old Red of Devon. So that the whole story will only come out plain by the union of knowledge gained in the three kingdoms, and therefore the whole ought to be kept together under one director-general. — Yours, in haste, J. Bbete Jukes. Duhlin, Dee. 8, 18(}6. My dear Ramsay, — As I read their lordships' letter, I am immediately to get about fourteen new men. They 566 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. Bay each district surveyor and senior geologist is have three assistants under him. Sir Roderick li already named Dunoyer a district surveyor. We ha only two assistant geologists now, and therefore, their numher is expressly unlimited — but each seni must have three at least, both in Scotland and Irelau under him — it seems to be an indefinite extension the survey. I rejoice at it, and shall expressly thai them for it ; but I shall also point out that the * u satisfactory progress' they speak of is not our fault, bi theirs. When we remonstrated ten or twelve yea ago against all our best men going to Australia, Indi &c., were we not told that it was good for the colonic and that the mother country could afford to wait ? I have just heard that the council of the Geologic Society decline to publish my last paper except in a stract without illustrations.* .... Glohe Hotel, Neivton Abbott, Devo Aug. 18, I8f)7. O'Kelly and I have had two days round here no^ taking it easy, and have been kept in a mixture amusement and bewilderment The great limi stone band near Chudleigh is fuUofStringocephalus. '!= The paper here referred to was subsequently printed in fu by Mr. Jukes under the title of ' Additional Notes on the Grou ing of the Rocks of North Devon and West Somerset.' GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 567 ilid not exactly unclerstancl what Sedgwick meant when I stopped with him there in 1841, and he went into the quarry, and said, * Ah, I thought De hi Beche had made a mistake ;' but I recollect his knocking out a shell, which, I have no doubt, was a stringocephalous. I be- lieve there's a big north-west and south-east fault — ■ downthrow to north-west — cuts off granite, and passes through Chudleigh, cutting the limestone ; but this is a mere guess, and would take weeks of work to prove. If you have a man you could spare to do this district over again, and put it a little straightor, I think it would be wise. All this is totally independent of my views of classification. We have got Bronteus flabellifer, Stringocephalus, &c. in the upper limestone ; I believe, if anything, it is rather above the ordinary Carboniferous Limestone than below. Barrande, I see, says that the place of the si- phon in Cephalapods is not worth a halfpenny, and that Clymenia is merely a Goniatite whose siphon has hap- pened to get to his belly, instead of his back The * un- conformability of Coal-measures on these limestones' is merely one hypothesis out of many which may be used to explain queer dodges in the beds. The whole coun- try is full of queer wrenches — capital grounds for a good youngster, if you have one to spare. I want one or two more days at it, then I go to Dartmouth, and work on towards Start Point to look for the real Old Red. 568 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. r I'orcross, near Start Point, Awj. )l,\), 1807. After making a tolerable examination of the neigl bourhood of Dartmouth, we came on here yesterday, an examined all the shore round the Start Point befor dinner. I expected of course to find mica schist, gneisf or something of that sort. Dr. Harvey Holl (who i not going to Dundee) talked of its being Laurenti^n Why, my dear fellow, it is all blue and black carboni ferous slate — just what you saw when with me in Ban try Bay — and * divil a taste' of mica schist or anythini of the sort. When we got to Hall sands, within ; mile of Start Point, the slates were much crumpled ii the way mica schists are sometimes, and they were ful of small quartz veins in places, like those which oecu in mica schist, and sometimes the surfaces of thosi quartz veins were coated with a micaceous glaze, so tha pieces of them, lying about in the fields, might be sup posed to have come out of mica schist, and I supposi that Sedgwick and Murchison took some of these foi mica schist. But the blue-black slate between th( quaitz veins is no more micacised than it is among thi limestones at Torquay. As to the general geology there is a belt of Glengarifif Old Red Sandstone five milei wide, running east and west from Dartmouth. It dipi south at 60° or so. If it is all regular, it must bi 25,000 feet thick. I believe it is an inverted anticlinal Then there is a space three miles wide where you sei GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 569 nothing as you go south ; then there is three miles of carboniferous slate, dipping north at 60°, ox at the old red, which dips south at it. What is the explanation I don't yet kno*v. We start directly for Kingsbridge, where perhaps we shall find out ; but that metamorphic area must be kicked over the walls of creation into in- finite space. — Yours truly, J. Beete Jukes. Dublin ^ >Sept- 1'^ 1^07. My dear Ramsay, — I suppose you have by this time escaped from the British Association, and that this will find you recovered from the effects. I write to ask if you know anything of the reason why the ground round Veryan Bay in Cornwall is con- sidered to be Silurian. I suppose it must be on account of some fossils found there. It was done, I fancy, since Sir Henry's time. As the carboniferous slate runs up to and apparently into that country without any obvious change, either in the nature of the rocks, the aspect of the country, or any other obvious character, I should like to know the evidence for it, and I don't know where to look. I had only the few hours between a morning and afternoon train to drive from St. Austell down to Garran Haven and back, so of course can't speak with authority on the subject, beyond the fact that I could 570 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. see no appearance of change, and that the vertical bla slates of Mevogissey and Portmellin are certainly o Irish carboniferous slates. I am not at all surprised , nobody having made out South Devon, and everyboc having gone wrong about it. There must be hosts faults, but besides that, there is contortion and inve sion to an unknown amount. I actually saw this Bovisand Bay [section] : a sandstone in grey slate, bei back on itself, and forming apparently two horizonti beds, about ten feet apart, lying in grey slate, and rui ning regularly, apparently, as two beds for twenty c thirty yards in the base of the cliff, and then faulted s that the top piece was brought down to the lower piece To build any conclusion on the apparent stratigraphies position of the rocks there is hopeless. They di] steadily south at 40° to 60° for miles together, both oi the strike and the dip. If you are to believe theappar ent dips, and build a stratigraphical section on them they must be 50,000 or 60,000 feet thick altogethei With the Irish clue, I believe a year or two's hard wor] of one or two good men would put it straight; bu without a good extraneous clue to the true stratigraphi cal position of the rocks, no geologist that ever walkei could do more than get himself into a hopeless muddl of confusion. I am now in a position to prepare th rough notes for a good critical paper on all the ol work I can lay my hands on, and as I believe my Irisl GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 571 work has given me the true clue, I shall think it my duty to the Science, and to this branch of the survey, to put that view forward. I will take care not to do so offensively, but certainly I cannot consent to suppress truth out of consideration for the feelings of any one whatever. — Yours very truly, J. Beete Jukes. Carlow, Sept. 19, 18(i7. My dear Kamsay, —Yours of the 17th catches me I here at work for the coal commission. I found out all about that Silurian. It is based on a paper by Sedg- wick and M'Coy in the eighth volume of the Q. J. G. S., which said paper, as well as M'Coy's big book on Paleo- zoic fossils, is, I find, full of matter, not only confirming my views on Devonian, but anticipatory of them. This explains what I heard from Selwyn, that M'Coy was very sore at my not having alluded to him. In fact, I find passages in De la Beche, Sedgwick and Murchison, Sedgwick and M'Coy, Phillips, and others, together with Barrande's recent work, all explainable and made cohe- rent by our Irish work, which gives in reality the clue to the mystery. Whoever re-surveys Cornwall must come and learn his lesson in Munster. It shows the neces- sity for a general survey of the United Kingdom by one set of men. . . . I must say I do not fully understand and iilll: 572 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. appreciate men having feelings on such points. It the oddest and most inexplicable thing to me that a: one should be annoyed or feel hurt, as if it were a p( Bonal injury to himself. Surely any man who is abo a spoilt child in such a matter would be more gli that the truth should be arrived at, than sorry that ] himself should be shown to have fallen involuntari into error. I must say that I have an involuntary co tempt for any man v*ho could have feelings in such matter. I shall be back in Dublin in a day or two. — You very truly, J. Beete Jukes, A summary of Mr. Jukes' views on the Devoni formation, extracted from his notes on the subje printed in 1868, will appropriately conclude this seri of letters. * I now beg leave — not in any spirit of dictation my brethrt i of the hammer, but simply as a stateme of the conclusion to which some years of thought a work have gradually conducted me — deliberately to i firm that the old red sandstone cannot be classed wi the Devonian slates and limestones without a violati of all the rules and logic which govern our geologii nomenclature. They are two formations, as distil from each other as are the old red sandstone and t GROUPING OF DEVONIAN ROCKS. 573 carboniferous limestone. I believe that the old red sandstone lies wholly below the Devonian slates and Emestones, which contain marine fossils both in Mun- ster and Devon. As to the exact relations between the carboniferous limestone and those Devonian slates and limestones, I do not wish to dogmatise upon a ques- tion which I believe to be open to farther investi- gation. Where they both come together in the county of Cork, the carboniferous limestone is uppermost ; but neither of them have any such thick development there |is in neighbouring districts, where it occurs alone. ' Both groups of rock have coal-measures resting [upon them, and both rest upon the old red sandstone. [These are stratigraphical facts which admit of clear ocular demonstration even in Devonshire, and are obvi- lous in Munster. The exact interpretation to be put on the palaeontological facts, when those are also estab- lished beyond all reasonable doubt, is, I think, a ques- ition for the future. ' In the mean time I must hold to the opinion that, [after the period during which the old red sandstone of the British Islands was formed, a sea spread over these districts, in parts of which mechanically-formed rocks —mud and sand — were accumulated, so as to form a thickness of several thousand feet ; and that during either a part, or the whole, of the time, other parts of that sea to which the mud and sands did not extend W 574 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. became the receptacle of the carboniferous limestoi formed chiefly from the growth of marine animals ; ai that in some places these accumulations produced a ma 2000 or 3000 feet in thickness. * Subsequently to the formation of those groups rock came the period in which the coal-measures we spread over them bcth, having a very variable structu in different places, but chiefly consisting of mechai cally-formed muds and sands. * I can only briefly allude to the various igneo rocks which accompanied the formation of these aqueo rocks in Devon, or to those that have been subsequent intruded among them. The granites of Devon ai Cornwall are obviously included in the latter categor as well as the Elvans and other granitic, apd some tra pean, varieties of rock. Numerous and large fissur and dislocations have subsequently traversed both ign ous and aqueous rocks. Some of these have more r cently become the receptacles of spars and ores, and a now mineral veins. It is difficult to say how often the actions have been repeated ; neither is it easy even guess at the greater or less amount of disturbance th accompanied the intrusion of the granite ; or, if th( accompanied that intrusion, they may have been greati in the districts intermediate between the present su face bosses of granite than they were in their immedia: neighbourhood. PRESSURE OF WORK. 575 ' These and many similar problems — some, perhaps, I jet even undreamed of — lie awaiting the futm'e labours of geologists in the west of England, and if the results lof the labours of my colleagues and myself — in addition to those of the other Irish geologists, among whom Sir IR. J. Grif36th takes the first place — in working out the Geological structure of Munster, contribute to clear the hround for the commencement of future researches in Ithe west of England, and in maldng more perfect the Iclassification of these rocks in the rest of the world, it |nll be felt as the highest reward to which we could laspire. In addition to the Directorship of the Irish survey |(of itself a weight quite sufficient for one man to bear), jllr. Jukes had, during the time he held that office, pitten many papers a ad published several works on geology. The mental labour of these years was im- liense, and the rest he took wholly inadequate for the restoration of his energies. He was an habitual early riser, usually in his study before six o'clock, thus [securing some uninterrupted time, but making the horking hours of the day far too long. And though Ithe indoor employment was occasionally relieved by Ifield work, this relief was more apparent than real, the [physical toil being frequently too severe to serve as a \ 576 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. relaxation, and a considerable amount of thought b( involved in the duties of a director, while overlool the work of the field geologists. From certain passages in his later letters it w( appear that he had some consciousness of the ' sha of the dark night coming down,' though to his ima ation it seems to have taken the form of an undefi incapacity for his work, rather than the more grac but more solemn shape of death. His connection \ the survey lasted for nearly twenty-three years, dui which he had with his colleagues been engaged in ceasing labour for the public benefit — labour of a nat little appreciated during the lifetime of the men whom it devolved. But in future years the foundal they have laid for the advancement of knowledge i for the prosperity of their country will doubtless recognised; and those who build on this foundation' not fail to admire the patient toil of their predecessi the geological surveyors of Great Britian and Irela Nor must it be supposed that Mr. Jukes ever regrel his devotion to Science, though fully aware of sacrifices she demands of her faithful votaries, specting the work of the survey he thus speaks in 18i * No amount of ability, either mental or bodily, ' fit a man for our work, unless he have that natural stinct for it which shall induce him, like Profej Ramsay and myself, and many other officers of TRUE VOTARIES OF SCIENCE. 577 survey, knowingly to abandon all hope of wealth, all love of ease, and all ambition of advancement in life, in order to devote his whole energies, thoughts, and aspirations to the pursuit of geology. ... It is, in fact, what occurs in all the natural sciences. Had the Astronomers Koyal, or had Professors Owen, Huxley, I and Tyndal, and the many other distinguished profes- sors of science, gone to the bar, or the church, or the I practice of physic, would not the same ability, labour, and perseverance, which have raised them to a barren eminence in their several pursuits, have elevated them to honour and affluence long before ? The over-master- ing bent of their inclinations alone determined them to science as the pursuit of their lives. Nor do I suppose that they ever regretted it; but without that over- mastering bent of inclination, they would never have submitted to the toils and privations they have had to I encounter.' Among the publications above referred to were the I following : in 1853 Popular Physical Geology, published in Lovell Keeve's series, and the completion of the Memoir of the South Staffordshire Coal-field. In 1856 I the article on geology in the Encyclopcedia Britannica, I In 1857 the first edition of the Student's Manual of Geology ; and in 1858 a new and greatly enlarged edi- tion oiih.e Memoir of the South Staffordshire Coal-field, But the work which tried him most was doubtless the PP 578 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I second edition of his Student's Manual, publifilict 1863. The comprehensive nature of this work, great desire to bring it up to the requirements of time, and to add to it an index which should be pa a glossary, involved an amount of labour which ( those who have been engaged in similar undertald can appreciate. The pecuniary benefit from the w was very insignificant, owing to the expense of illustrations and the compliance of the publishers \ the author's desire that the price should be as mode] as possible. The value to students of a manual, wl combined an immense amount of information with most lucid arrangement, was speedily felt both at he and on the Continent, a third edition being soon ca' for, and a proposal made for its translation into Fren In 1868 he made another effort to render a third edit more perfect than the preceding; but found himi quite unequal to the task, and was glad to resign completion of it to his colleague Mr. Geikie, directoi the Scotch survey, under whose able editorship it is r (1871) passing through the press. It was, moreo) during his directorship that (as Professor Huxley sta in his obituary notice at the Geological Society) ] Jukes edited and largely contributed to no fewer tl forty-two memoirs explanatory of the geological m of the southern, eastern, and western parts of Irela executed by the survey. FAILURE OF HEALTH. 579 It will have been seen from some of even the earlier [letters to Professor Ramsay, written in Ireland, that I mental anxiety and bodily toil had begun to undermine Mr. Jukes' health. These symptoms might perhaps have been counteracted, had they led him to take the only remedy of any use in such cases — absolute rest for months or even years ; but in the autumn of 1864 they were greatly aggravated by an accident which occurred while he was overlooking survey work in the south-west of Ireland. The only available quarters in these wild districts were the small inns, with their dingy apart- ments and rude accommodation, and it was whilst stay- ing at one of these that he missed his footing near the bottom of an awk^^ard staircase, and fell on the lime- htone flags of the hall, striking the back of his head nvith such force as completely stunned him for a time, md caused much alarm to the people of the house. When he recovered, however, he thought so little of the accident, that he jumped into the car wiiting at the door to convey him to his work of inspection, which he continued for some days, being anxious to finish it before commencing his autumn holiday. There is little doubt that this fall had a serious effect on his health ; for he found an incapacity for continuous thought gra- dually creeping over him, and soon became so unwell that he gave up the attempt, and hastened to join Mrs. Jukes at Coblentz. Still, he did not connect his in- 58o LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. disposition with the fall, and did not even mention to her. During his stay at Cohlentz he hecame ser ously ill, and the physician who was called in, questions him closely as to his having undergone some shock ( fall, and then the accident was recollected. From th time his health gradually failed ; and the different e; cursions and periods of rest, recommended so earnest by his friends and medical advisers, though refreshii him for a time, did not arrest the disease, which ma( slow but fatal progress. In 1868 a journey to Cautere was advised, and, as far as practicable, a sea voyage preference to railway travelling. He and Mrs. Juk therefore left Dublin by steamer for Portsmouth. Tl following letters, the last of any length received fro him, relate to this excursion and to their tedious ai dangerous voyage on returning from Bordeaux duri: the great storm of August in that year. Haslar Hospital, Qosport, July 19, 1868. Dear Cara, — I am not here as a patient, but as t guest of my old messmate Shadwell, who is captf superintendent. Our steamer put into Portsmoi yesterday, after a delightful voyage of three days fr( Dublin, in which we visited the environs of Falmou Plymouth, and Southampton before we came here, a as we found there was no steamer to Havre till M( day, and Shadwell wished to see us, here we are. 1 1 JOURNEY TO CAUTERETS. 581 houses of the officers arc behind the hospital, with very pleasant gardens and a kind of park round all. It is the quietest soit of retreat, half surrounded by the sea, and the rest by batteries and dockyard arrangements, with the Isle of Wight appearing in the, openings among the trees at the back, in beautiful vistas. We go on board the Havre steamer to-morrow night (where I am afraid we shall not get a cabin to ourselves, as we did in the Dublin one), and mean to get to the top of the Pyrenees before we come back. Hotel de Paris, Cauterets, Hautes Pyrenees, Aug. 13, 1868. We had a delightful voyage to Havre, and a very pleasant trip by Kouen (where we spent a night) to Paris, where we spent two or three quiet days (for Paris), iindIsawMar9on, Barrande, and some other celebrities. Then we travelled all night to Bordeaux in the most tremendous storm of thunder and lightning I ever wit- nessed, and stayed there three or four days with our friends. We got very comfortably to Landes at the foot of the Pyrenees, and luckily had secured places in the coupe of the diligence up to Cauterets, but I was so ill with diarrhoea that I really began to think I should never get there. We had not written for a room, and the place was crowded, so we were lucky in getting a 582 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. bedroom in a succursale, or house used by the hotel, which the diligence stopped, and here we have be ever since. Cauterets is in a crevice of the Pyrenees, itself about the height of Snowdon, but with steep pine-c vered crevassed hills rising up on each side of t crevice to a height of five or six thousand feet above t town ; so that' there are patches of snow visible on the green tops from our bedroom window, notwithstandi the intense heat of the weather. The baths are abo a mile from us (at least the one we were directed use) and about 400 feet above the town. There is i omnibus every ten minutes, which, however, we did n use after the first two days. I am certainly better, ai sleep much more like a top than I did, and they si that the diarrhoDa is inevitable ; for every spring of co water — and they are numerous — contains some abomi] able mineral solution or other, and they are so co and pleasant it is difficult to avoid drinking when tl sun is broiling you above, with a granite cliff for heater on each side. We went up one day to Li Gaube, which is about 5700 feet above the sea, su rounded by peaks, one of which is the third loftiest i the Pyrenees. A little dirty wretch of a glacier wt melting away on the side of it, the summit being 10,8C feet high. To-day the mountains are covered wit clouds, and it feels quite chilly. We propose to leai 'E JUKES. RETURN HOME. 583 used by the hotel, at [ here we have been le Pyrenees, itself at , with steep pine-co- 311 each side of the ousand feet above the ' snow visible on their dow, notwithstanding The baths are about we were directed to ) town. There is au however, we did not certainly better, and I did, and they say r every spring of cold ntains some abomiu- ad they are so cold i drinking when the a granite cliJBf for a up one day to Lac above the sea, sur- the third loftiest in ich of a glacier was lummit being 10,800 s are covered with We propose to leave the day after to-morrow and go into the next valley, which is said to be the most beautiful in the Pyrenees, and then in a day or two back to Bordeaux. I hope the clouds will have the goodness to clear away again, and let us have one peep at the valley of Luz and St. Sauveur. Hitherto it has been too clear and too blaz- ing; and the Pyrenees are not like the Alps, with parallel longitudinal ranges and intermediate valleys, into which the rivers descend from each side, till the rivers at length cut through one or other ; but merely one ridge cut by a multitude of ravines down each slope, these ravines leading into one another as they descend the slopes. ... Gudig, Pemhray, South Wales, Aug. 25, 1868. You will be surprised at the above address ; but the fact is, we are glad to have any address at all other than the sea bottom. The steamer by which we left Bor- deaux was a small screw, and after getting into the Bay of Biscay we found she had very little cargo and very little ballast, and rolled as if she had been built for that purpose. . . . When the fair wind died away she could only make three knots an hour with her screw, and we crawled out of the Bay of Biscay and across the mouth of the English Channel into the mouth of the 584 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. I J Bristol Channel during Wednesday, Thursday, ai Friday, till about twelve o'clock on Friday night \ were some thirty-five miles to the westward of Lun( Island. The only other female on board was a middl aged Scotchwoman, who was going home from a fami in whose service she had been in the south of Franc There was also a gentleman of the name of Fox comii home from Spain, who had been recommended to t that route, to whom the captain had given up his her in his cabin. We learnt, just time enough, that the ship was teetotaller, and had neither wine, beer, nor spirits c board ; so I sent oiEF half a dozen of claret, which tl steward put loose in a locker, where they were a broken the second day. Luckily Mr. Fox brougl some in his carpet-bag, which he shared with us. Tl ship was as dirty as it well could be, and they we] always cleaning the machinery with naphtha, causii] such a smell as alone to make Augusta feel ill. . . Tl captain was very much of an old foozle ; said very loi graces, both before breakfast and dinner ; and though was a teetotal vessel, did not hesitate to take his sha] of Mr. Fox's claret. We were promised to be lande in Dublin about midday on Saturday ; but towards thr( o'clock that morning there came up a furious gale fro: the west, with as heavy a rolling sea as I ever saw i my life. We were shortly obliged to heave to, and h "^ yUKES. UNTOWARD VOYAGE. 585 day, Thursday, and | on Friday night we I e westward of Lundy i . board was a middle- \ home from a family the south of France, name of Fox coming recommended to try id given up his berth that the ship was a beer, nor spirits on of claret, which the vhere they were all y Mr. Fox brought hared with us. The be, and they were ih naphtha, causing usta feel ill. . . The ozle ; said very long inner ; and though it ite to take his share )mised to be landed y ; but towards three ) a furious gale from jea as I ever saw in to heave to, and lay all that morning pitching and rolling, but luckily not taking much water on board. This was the more for- tunate, as it was then found that the pumping gear was out of order, and would not work properly, so that if the captain put the helm up and attempted to run before the gale towards Bristol, we should probably be pooped by some heavy sea, and gradually swamped from in- ability to pump it out- Luckily about noon the gale moderated a little, so as to enable us to set the main- sail, and gradually to crawl up to the northward. Mr. Fox and I were constantly at the captain to make for Milford Haven if he could possibly fetch it ; and though he would not yield to us, yet in the middle of Saturday night, finding he had only one day's more coal on board, he did put his helm up, and about six a.m. on Sunday morning Augusta called to me, for I had fallen asleep, that we were in Milford Haven. I need not say that I dressed as quickly as possible, and that as soon as we came to an anchor, and found a boat alongside, Mr. Fox and ourselves tumbled into it, went to the railway sta- tion, and came here by the first train. I shall cross to Waterford to-morrow in the mail-boat, as I have work to do in Galway in September. We can see from the window of this room between the sand-hills the bow of a brig high and dry. She came ashore in the gale without a soul in her, and we hear of two other vessels in the same case in this neighbourhood, and of vessels 586 \ETTERS OF J. BEETE 'TUKES. driving past Ilfracombe and other places in a perfect helpless condition. They say, indeed, they have n known such a gale at this time of year for mai years. Augusta behaved in a first-rate manner through a the storm, when everybody felt that though there wi no imminent downright danger, it all depended on mar circumstances whether we got through it or not. I cou only regret that her anxiety to accompany and take cai of me brought her into such a mess. I am certainl better now, and hope to be able to take care of mysel — With our united kind love to all, ever your afi'ectioii ate brother, Beete. It was not until the spring of 1869 that his wif and immediate relatives gave up the hope that his ex cellent constitution might eventually enable him t( rally from the attacks which had alarmed them. In th early part of the year he was much grieved by the los of one of his colleagues, Mr. Du Noyer, who died of scar let fever. The following is part of the last letter re ceived by his friends in England : Downpatrich, Feb. 27, 1869. . . . Here I am in this little country town in th north of Ireland, endeavouring to supply the place o :£• ^UKES. REST IN DEATH. 587 I poor Du Noyer, who died of scarlet fever at the begm- ning of the year. I have done some days of inspection iluty, which I think has done me good ; but it snew last night, and the country is all white this morning. Still, I think the country air is better for me than that of Dublin. upply the place of But neither pure air nor quiet rest, neither the skill I of a faithful friend and physician nor the love and care of a devoted wife, could now avail. The work of life was done, the burden and heat of the day had been bravely borne ; and instead of the ' peaceful hermitage' to which we look forward in 'weary age,' he found that deeper rest, where neither toil nor care can evermore I disturb ' the heaven of our repose.' Almost the last words of conscious utterance ad- ! dressed to his wife a few days before his death were that &od was going to take him home, recalling Wordsworth's beautiful line, ' True to the kindred points of heaven and home.' He died on July 29, 1869, and was buried in the churchyard of Selly Oak, near his native town of Birm- ingham. His colleague and successor, Mr. Hull, writes thus feelingly of him in the Geological Magazine for September of that year : ' We can recall the massive form, the penetrating I' I 588 LETTERS OF J. BEETE JUKES. glance, and the sturdy step of our late friend, as, ma years ago, we accompanied him amongst the mountai of North Wales, and had the advantage of his instru tion when attempting to unravel the intricate structu of their rocks. How hard it is to realise that that he; is now laid at rest in a quiet churchyard of centr England !' The portrait accompanying this volume will, it hoped, convey something of the nohle contour and e pression of that head — the massive brow, where reignc the majesty of thought, the serene grey-blue eyes, tl finely -chiselled nose, the full mouth and large whi teeth, in part concealed by abundant growth of brow beard. A friend who knew him in the time of fuUel manhood — ere toil and care had brought that look ( weariness into the eyes and thinned the dark-brow locks — used to say, 'Jukes looks as if he might ha\ been a Roman emperor !' And he certainly possecse several of the qualities which we associate with the coi querors of the ancient world — calm courage in dange energy of purpose and action, power of organisation, anc above all, straightforward honesty and truthfulnes Truth was, in fact, his idol. A want of it in others, ( anything mean and underhand, was the one fault f( which he had no toleration. This absolute worship i truth in speech and action is apt to be termed iwpri dence. Would that it prevailed more universally ! F( ^E JUKES. CONCLUSION. 589 late friend, as, many Igurely it is not from the imprudence of speaking the longst the mountains iruth that the world has so long suffered, but from the Qtage of his instruc le intricate structure -ealise that that head burchyard of central is volume will, it is )ble contour and ex- brow, where reigned ) grey-blue eyes, the uth and large white mt growth of brown 1 the time of fullest Drought that look of aed the dark-brown as if he might have certainly possecsed iociate with the con- courage in danger, of organisation, and, S and truthfulness, at of it in others, or is the one fault for absolute worship of be termed imprii- re universally ! For far greater imprudence of concealing it. Must we still exclaim with lago, ' Take note, take note, world, To be direct and honest is not safe' ! Let us rather say with Pope, though in a more pro- saic strain, ' An honest man's the noblest work of God,' and believe that safety is found only in tne Truth ' which liveth and conquereth evermore.' The Editor now closes her attempt to set in an ap- propriate framework the autographic portrait of her brother, which is here presented to his friends in life- long remembrance of his many noble gifts of mind and heart. It has been to her most truly a labour of love, and has served during many months to bring the companion of her early days so vividly before her, that she has appeared to be living two lives — one in the present, with its daily duties and pleasures, the other in the past, sharing his voyages and adventures in Newfound- land and Australia, or breathing with him the free air of the Welsh hills. Should this volume serve to recall her brother to the remembrance of his friends, and to It-' 590 LETTERS OF J, BEETE JUKES. convey to those who were unacquainted with him, a fa picture of his arduous labours in the cause of sciei the Editor's object will be attained. CHRONOLOGICAL LIST OF BOOKS, PAPERS, &c. BY J. BEETE JUKES. 1838. A Popular Sketch of the Geology of the County of Leicester, Analyst, vol. viii. p. 1. A Popular Sketch of the Geology of Derbyshire. Ibid. p. 214. 1839. On the Position of the Rocks along the South Boundary of the Pennine Chain. Rep. Brit. Assoc, for 1838, Trans, of Sec- tions, p. 79. Sketch of the Geology of Derbyshire, second part. Analyst, vol, ix. p. 1. On the Geology of the Northern Part of the County of Stafford. Ibid. p. 233. 1840. Report on the Geology of Ne\vfoundland. Folio. Ditto. Edin. New Phil. Journ. vol. xxix. p. 103. 1842, Address to the Lit. and Phil. Soc. Wolverhampton. Inaugural Address to the Wolverhampton Branch of the Dudley and Midland Geol. Soc. Excursions in and about Newfoundland during the years 1839 and 1840. 2 vols. 8vo, London. The Geology of Charnwood Forest. An Appendix to T. R. Pot- ter's ' History and Antiquities of Charnwood Forest.' 4to, Nottingham. 1843. General Report of the Geological Survey of Newfoundland. 8vo, London. A few Remarks on the Nomenclatui'e and Classification of Rock I i b 592 LIST OF J. BEETE JUKES' Formations in new Countries. Tasmanian Joum. Nat. Sciei vol. ii. p. 1. 1847. Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H. M.S. Fly ... in Toi Strait, New Guinea, and other Islands of the Eastern Ar pelago, , . . together witli an Excursion into the Interior of Eastern Part of Java. 2 vols, 8vo, London. Notice of some Tertiary Rocks in the Islands stretching fi Java to Timor. Rep. Brit. Assoc, for 1846, Trans, of Sectic p. 67. Sketch of the Geological Structure of Australia. Ibid. p. 68. Notice of the Aborigines of Newfoundland. Ibid. p. 114. Notes on the three Races of Men inhabiting the Islands of Indian and Pacific Oceans. Ibid. p. 114. Notes on the Palaeozoic Formations of New South Wales and A Pieman's Land, Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc, vol. iii. p. 241. 1848. Notes on the Geology of the Coasts of Australia. Quart. Jon Geol. Soc, vol. iv. p. 142. (With Mr. A. H. Selwyn) Sketch of the Structure of the Coun extending from Cader Idris to Moel Siabod, North Wa^ Ibid. p. 300. 1850. A Sketch of the Physical Structure of Australia, so far as it is present known. 8vo, London. On the Relations between the New Red Sandstone, the Cc measures, and the Silurian Rocks of the South Staffordsli Coal-field. Rep. Brit. Assoc, for 1849, Trans, of Sectio p. 55. 1851. On the Geology of the South Stafibrdshire Coal-field. Jou Geol. Soc, Dublin, vol. v. p. 114. Sketch of the Geology of the County of Waterford. Ibid. p. 1 1852. Australia and its Gold Regions. Chambers' Repository of! structive and Amusing Tracts. 1853. On Devonian Rocks in the South of Ireland, for 1862, Trans, of Sections, p. 51. Rep. Brit. Ass BOOKS, PAr-ZRS, ETC. 593 nian Joum, Nat. Science, A-ustralia, Quart. Joura, .ustralia, so far as it is at mbers' Repository of In jland. Rep. Brit. Assoc, Popular J*hysical Geology. 12mo, London. On the Geology of the South Staflfordshu-e Coal-field. Record.^ of the School of Mines, vol. i. part ii. p. 149 (Geological Sui'- vey). On the Geology of Australia, with especial reference to the Gold Regions. Lectures on Gold delivered at the Museum of Prac- tical Geology. 8vo, London. On the Occurrence of Caradoc Sandstone at Great Barr, South Staffordshire. Quart. Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. ix. p. 179. 1854. (With Mr. A. Wyley.) On the Structure of the North-eastern Part of the County Wicklow. Journ. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. vi. p. 28. Annual Address delivered before the Geological Society ofDubUn. February 1854. Journ. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. vi. p. 61. On the Barometrical Measurement of the Peak of TenerifFe. Proc. Roy. Irish Acad., vol. vi. p. 89. 1855. Annual Address delivered before the Geological Society of Dublin, February 1855. Journ. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. vi. p. 252. (With Mr. J. W. Salter.) Notes on the Classification of the Devonian and Carboniferous Rocks of the South of Ireland. Joum. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. vii. p. 63. 1856. Note to Mr. F. Foot's paper on the Trappean Rocks in the neigh- bourhood of Killamey. Ibid. vol. vii. p. 172. The Article ' Geology, or Mineralogical Science,' in the eighth edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica. 1857. The Student's Manual of Geology. 8vo, Edinburgh. On the Alteration of Clay-slate and Grit-stone into Mica-schist and Gneiss by the Granite of Wicklow, &c. Rep. Brit. Assoc, for 1856, Trans, of Sections, p. 68. Notes on the Calp of Kilkenny and Limerick. Joum. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. vii. p. 277. 1858. Notes on the Old Red Sandstone of South Wales. Rep. Brit. Assoc for 1857, Trans, of Sections, p. 73. QQ 594 LIST OF J, BEETE JUKES' On the Igneous Rocks of Arklow Head. Journ. Geol. Soc. Dublin vol. viii. p. 17. Iron Ores of the South Staffordslure Coal-field. Geological Sui vey. 1859. On the Progress of Geology. Quarterly Review, July. The South Staffordshire Coal-field, second edition. Memoirs o the Geological Survey of Great Britain. (With Prof. Haughton.) On the Lower Palffiozoic Rocks of th^ South-east of England, and their associated Igneous Rocka Trans. Roy. Irish Acad., vol. xxiii. p. 563. (With Mr. G. V. du Noyer.) On the Geological Stnictui-e of Ca hercourll Mountain, ten miles west of Tralee. Journ. Gecil Soc. Dublin, vol. viii. p. 106. On the Occurrence of some isolated Patches of the Lowe Coal-measure Shales in the Northern Part of the County o Dubhu. Ibid. vol. viii. p. 1U2. 1861. On the Igneous Rocks interstratified with the Carboniferous Limestones of the Basin of Limerick. Rep. Brit. Assoc, fo 1860, Trans, of Sections, p. 84. 1862. On the Mode of Formation of some of the River Valleys in th( South of Ireland. Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc, vol. xviii. p. 378 Note on the Way in wliich the Calamine occurs at Silver Mines, County of Tipperary. Journ. GeoL/^oc. Dublin, vol X. p. 11. Inventory Catalogue of the Specimens illustrating the Compo sition. Structure, and other Characters of the Irish, British and Foreign Rocks, in the Collection of the Museum of Irisl Industry, Dublin. 8vo, DubUn. The Student's Manual of Geology, second edition. 8vo, Edin burgli. 1863. Address to the Geol. Section (Cambridge Meeting). Rep. Brit Assoc, for 1862, Trans, of Sections, p. 54, The School Manual of Geology. 8vo, Edinburgh. BOOKS, PAPERS, ETC. 595 urn, Geol. Soc. Dublin, field. Geological Sur 1864. On some Indentations in Bones of a Cervus Megacpros, found ill June 1803 underneath a Bog near Legan, County Long- ford, Joum. Geol. Soc. Dublin, vol. x. p, 127, ()i\ the Flint Implements found in the Gravel of St. Acheul, near Amiens, and their Mode of Occurrence. Proc. Hoy. Irish Acad., vol. viii, p, 220. 1865. Notes for a Comparison between the Rocks of the South-west of Ireland and those of North Devon and lUienish Prussia. Joum. Roy. Geol. Soc. Ireland, Sketch of the Geological Structure of the South Staffordshire Coal-field. 8vo, Birmingham. Former Extension of the Coal-measures, (Letter on the). Geol. Mag. vol. ii. p. 135. The Outlier of Carboniferous Limestone near Corwen. Ibid. p. 326. Glaciatiou in N. Devon and its Rocks, (Letter on). Ibid, p. 473. Further Notes on the Classification of the Rocks of N, Devon. Read before the Geol. Soc. of Ireland. d edition. 8vo, Edin 1866. Some Descriptive Notes in Professor Ramsay's Memoir ' On the Geology of North Wales.' Memoirs of the Geol. Sui-vey, vol. iii. On the Carboniferous Slate (or Devonian Rocks), and the Old Red Sandstone of South Ireland and North Devon. Quart. Joum. of Geol. Soc, vol. xxii. p. 320. Atmospheric v. Marine Denudation, (Letter on), Geol, Mag., vol. iii. p, 232, Reply to Mr. G. P. Scrope's Article on the Origin of Valleys, &c. Ibid. p. 331. 1867. Additional Notes on the Grouping of the Rocks of North Devon and West Somerset. Read to Geol. Soc. London. 8vo, Dub- lin (privately printed) . H.M. Geological Survey of tlie United Kingdom, and its connec- tion with the Museum of Irish Industry and that of Prac. Geology in London. An Address delivered before the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Dec. 31st, 1800, and published, with Notes. 596 LIST OF J. BEETE JUKES' BOOK'S, ETC. Letter on Glaciation in Devon and its Borders. Geol. Mag., vol. iv. p. 41. Letter on the Devonian Rocks of Devonsliire. Ibid. p. 87 (Cor rections, p. 133). On the Gorge of the Avon at Clifton. Ibid. p. 444. 18«8. Notes on Parts of South Devon and Cornwall, with Remarks on the true Relations of the Old Red Sandstone to the Devonian Formation. Journ. Roy. Geol. Soc. Ireland, vol. ii. p. 07. The Challc of Antrim. Geol. Mag., vol. v. p. 345. Geological Map of In liind : scale eight miles to an inch. Lon- don, Stnnford. Forty-two Memoirs explanatory of the Maps of the South, East. and West of Ireland were edited and in a great measure written icy Mr. Jukes during the progress of the Irish Survey from 1850 to 1809. Part Author of various sheets of the Map of the Geological Survey of England (Wales, Staffordshire, &c.). THE END. •*»jf LONDON: ROBSON ANn SONS, PRINTERS, PANCRA8 BOAO, N.W. BOOKS, ETC. [orders. Geol. Mag., re. Ibid. p. 87 (Cor p. 444. all, with Remarks on tone to the Devonian land, vol. ii. p. 67. p. 345. es to an inch. Lon- >s of the South, East. in a great measure IS of the Irish Survey ip of the Geological , &c.). '•>!i