IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 S I.I 1.25 IIM 1^ IM ^ m 1.4 1.6 ^^h c2 '>> 'V <^ y /«^ ^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Teciinical Notes / Notes techniques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Physical features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. D n/ Coloured covers/ Couvertures de couleur Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Certains ddfauts susceptibles de nuire d la quality de la reproduction sont not^s ci-dessous. 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Le diagramme suivant illustre la m^thode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 FACADK OF XHTIR (>I,AC (I KIIM I'lli'l ;\IIC I-. l(l>SKSSF(i.v .1 T^ F Mi:iR (VLACIKK, ALASKA, l'M"In(,r\PH 1 l(jtsl-,M(.\ ,.| tin \i Ili<.F<, rm tssBssm b 3663T Copyright, 1890, by Seftima M. Com. is. fi 4 A WOMAN'S TRIP TO ALASKA BEING AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE 'llIROl'GH THE INLAND SEAS OF THE SITKAN AKCHU'ELAGO IN 1890 KY SEPTIMA M. COLL IS (Mrs. Genrkai. C. H. T. Collis) AUTHOR OK "a woman's WAR RECORO." Illustrated by American Bank Note Co. New York. NEW YORK CASSELL PUBIJSMING COMPANY 104 & 106 FoiRiH Avenue p 70$ IMIKFACK. In tlui following; [>ages 1 luivt^ not made t*\ en a pre- tence of writini;' a Hcientific or historical work. It is not of special interest to those for wlioni 1 write to know the exact pressure to the square inch whicli pro- pels the seas of ice as the}' furrow their Avay from the Arctic regions through the mountain gorges down to the softeninsi influences of the Japanese stream, nor to trace the vicissitudes of Ahiska fi'om the voyages of Captain Cook down to the purchase by Mr. Sewar iV(.. 75 W'kst 71st Stukkt, Nkw Vokk, Nov. Ttli, l.s'.Mi. ^SFus. Gknkual Ooi.ms, Xcw ^^>^k City. Dear ^Iadam : It Avas ji lijiiidsoiiu' coinpHincnt for you to suhinit to me tlu; proofs of yoiii- fcrtli-coniiiig l)ook '' A A\^>mau's ^i^rlp t<> AlaskM," tnt'iy Avorcl of n\ liich I liavo read a\ itli profit and pl(^•lsl^v, and I am sure it will iiiHuenc't^ tliousands of tourists to visit our own su])lime re<'ions in America ]>et*ore j^-oini;' to Europe. T profess to Ik^ somewlint familiar Avitli every route of tia\el l)etween Xew York, l*uget Sound and British Colund)ia, and can verify your faithful description as far as (.^ueen Charlotte Sound. Tlience to Sitka, Mmi- GLicier and Juneau, your tri[) Avent l)eyond my i)er- sonal experience; although I have conversed with many officers ^v]lo have Leen thei'e and heyond, all of ANhoin will bear testhnony to your faithful descriptions. In readinir your text I ^vas impressed, by your ap- preciation of the lieroic jichievements of our American pioneers wdio h<'i\e brouglit the Pacific States Avithin easy reach of the most delicate and refined of (Hu* Eastern people; that you describe the comfort and R'jil luxury of travel in tli.-jt new I'cirion ; tlie oxcellcut hotels }intt F. Shepard, iiran much jj:oo(1, aii()in' ehildrrouze. Atfectionatelv \'oin' fi'iend, WM. T. SIIKiniAX, (jeneial. Ci CONTKNTS. I'Af.K 1-9 CUAP'rKR J. Iluw to Dress uulI Wluit to Take. — Checkiiij^' l^'iggaRt-"- — '^'^'P "^fi" I'l'-' I'eiinsylvaiiia Railroad. — A Halt and a Dimu-r in Cliicayo. — Minneapolis: its Hour-Mills, ;iiid its lieaiitifnl I'.iiildint^s Lakes, and Parks ........••• ClIAPKR II. West from Miinicapolis. — (loniOirts of llic 1 »iiiin,L;-('iir. — lii^niaick. — Previous Visit in 18S3, — Omul, Villanl, jind Evarls. — Sittiiis^r I'.uH's llnpojudarily. — Tlie Pad Lands. — Marquis (k- Mori'sV Unsuccessful Venture. — Tlie Yellowstone River. — Indians, Cowboys, and Ever- changing Scenery. — '1 lie ^\'onlItM■s of tlio Yellowstone Park. — A 'rrii> through it with President Arthur, ( '.eneral Sheridan, andUlhers, All Now Deceased. — Helena, Montana. — ASunday Dinner on ]!oard the Train. — \Vonderful Trestles and I'.ngineering. — Clark's Pork. — • Pake Pend d'Oreille. — The Sportsman's Paradise. — Spokane Falls. — ••Miles of Uninteresting Sage Grass. — Moxie I'arni. — An Amusing N'isitor. — The Cascade Mountains. — Stampede Tunnel. — The J'uy- allup Valley. — Arrival at Taconia ....... CIIAI'IKR DP Taconia of Seven Years Ago. — 'i'aconia of To-Day. — Its I'rosperous population. — Culture and Ketlnement. — Lumber Mills and Ship- l)ing. — Rapid Building. — " Tiie Taconia" Hotel. — Mount Taconia, 34-44 CHAPTER IV. 'I'lic Steamship Quan. — ller Admiral)le Appointments. — Obliging Offi- cers and Servants. — Captain Camdl ? id One of his Jokes. — Seattle. — Its Wonderful (jrow tli since the Great Eire. — An Indian's Floating Residence. — Puget Sound. — Its Beautiful Islands. — Wonderful Young Cities. — Aiiacortes and Fairhaven. — I'ort Townsend. — Fresh Arrivals from San Francisco 45-56 10-33 CONTHNTS. CnAl'I'I'.R V. Arrival ;U Victoria, Y>. C— An Kdtn of Mowers.— 'I lie Kni^rliMi Mav- ll,,\vtr.— Kx(|uis:te Landscape.— Suiierb View of llie I'.ay and Mum,- laiu Ranges.— Grand Sunset.— Civiliry of tlie Kesidents. — Dinner ai tl)-, " Poodle Doy." — A Moonlight 'I'rauip U> tlie Sliip . (•iiAr'n;K vi. -()() (iulf Up Karly and on Deck.— Wlio Arc the Isarly Kiser^?— 'Hie (leorgia and Johnstone Straits.— Vancouver and San Jr.an Islands. — Snow-Clad ^rountains, — >Torc Ticturescpie Islands.— Iheakfasl.— Whales, Wuter-ialis, Seals, and Porpoises.— A Most Knjoyahle i )ay. —Wonderfully Transparent Water '''7-75 I 7<)-SS CTTAPTER VTI. Arrival at Fort Wrangell.— Its History.- Mcctin- the (iovernor of V.nska.— 'llie Tolcni Poles.— Their .Meaning,— Curious Carvings by Ihe Natives.-- Tlu; Wretched Indian Homes. — I'overty, Filth, anf ('onditinii ..f the Sitkaii^. -I'lie 'riiousaiul Ulaiids and their l-Olia^^e. — Mt. |-;di;ee..inlie .Ni^ain. — Tlie Fairwealher ^!nulltain-^ l.y 'l^uili^hl. — .\ Ni'dit (if ('(iiitiiiuiiiis 1 )ay. — Amazing; I'llTect of Siiiisel ami SiiiiriNe. ri,,j Iniuii of the Muniin;^ ]''inds I'.verylxidy on 1 )eek. -iMelds ol tee and leel>erL;s in ( dacier ]!ay.— The Captain's .\n\iety and Skill. "Cnffee?" " No, 'i'hanks." — Deseriiitlon of Miiir ( dacier . r. '43 (:iia!''im:r x. My i'irsl Si!j,lit of \1 uir ( dacier. — The Spell-l'.ound ra^senL^ers. — \\hat il I,ook> like. -It. ( 'ol '"-al C.randeiirand l",.\(|uisite Coloriiii;. — Ih-eak- ini,^ olT of the front with Loud 1 )el<)nati(nis. — Impressions Made upon Previous Writers. — Ascent to the Top of the ( ilaeier. — Its Dangers and i'atigiies ........ 144- rS^ Cil.M'I'I'R XT. Taking it e .\l)oard.— 'Idii- Lake of the Cods and Scidniore Island.— The i'airwcalliers by Dayligl:! : k'airweatiier, Crillon, and La I'eroiise. -Divine Service on the Oiir,ii. — ^Mceting tlie Piii/d and Handing the Sailors their .Mail.— Douglass Island and its Cold Mines. — History of the Treailwell Mine. — Cheap and Profitable Mining. — .\ <,)uarry of Cold. — Juneau. — Prettily Located. — Its His- tory.— Creat Depot for furs. — Methods of the Indian Trader. — A ■freasure Lost and Regained. — The Native Dances Civen by an Alas- kan Showman. — Weird ancl rniiiue Performance. — Remarkable Cos- tume-- of the Dancers. — 'fhe Shaman Dance .... 159-174 CIIAPfiiR XII. Taku Inlet. — Up the I,ynn Canal to Chilcat, above the sijlh Degree of Latii ulc— .\uk and P'agle (dacier--. — The Davidson (dacier. — Kil- lisnoo and its |-'isheries. — Wrangcll Narrows and Clarence Straits. — The .\merican l'',agle. — Whale I'ooil. — 'fhe ( )ulikon or Candle- fish. — Schools of Wiiales in Search of Lood. — Bute Inlet. — fort Simpson, 1>. t!. — .\ i'ost of llie Hudson P.ay Company. — Methodist Church. — Ravages of La Crippe. — Mourning and 'fombstf)iies.— "Muck a muck."— 'fhe Man-f"aters and I )og-flalers. — Horrible IJar- [)arisni before the Arrival of .Mr. William Duncan and the Mission- aries. — Death in a Hut, and tiie Anguisii of an (Jld Scpiaw . 175-1S5 CONTENTS. CllAl'IIK XITl. i'Ac;i': Mclhilikatlah, 1'.. C — An Imlian \ illa-e villi a CockI Covenmici.t.- TlieirWriUeu C;)iistitutu)n.— 'I'luir Industries and Minlianiral IMu- oation.— Nanaim...— A Game of liase-l'-all.— ( clcl.rated Coal Mines. —Recent Sad Calamity in One of 'J'licni.— limit Resort for Sporl.- ,„en.— Splendid Fishini; and Hunting.— Victoria Attain, and llie •' I'oodle Dog" Once More.— 'Squimault and the Boating-Cronnds. — Klection-Day.— The Australian Rallot.— A Cause Cc'lchrr.—XvnsAX Once More at Taconuu— < )lf for the Vosemite . • ]Sr.-i<,4 I! I ^ ILLUSTRATIONS lU the .hni-ri,ii)i H-i'iA' .\'«/,- («>i//>k( i., - SCKNKKV IN rilK (ll'l.l ••! (i Id )k( 1 1 A , 70 Johns roNK Siuaii's, - - - - ■ l'"()iKI WkANCKI.I. I'linlo. I.\ l.llul, - A SiRKKT IN I'oKT Wkancki.i -I'IidIo. l>y 'I'jiIh'I, - 'i'olKM I'OI.KS AT I'oKT WkxM.KI.I. -I'lldlu h\ TMhcl, - Indian ,S(,ir wvs \r 1''oki \Vk \ni,ki,i,, Indian (Jkavk at I'our \Vi 77 7« 7<) SI H3 HS 'J' '»( 'J 7 *)0 100 101 102 103 104 105 !()(. 107 I 10 I '3 I "7 I ds 120 121 124 125 ()\ I)K^oN GkacIKK — Plioto. by Winter, - Kii.i.lsNoo- I'lioto. by Wiiiiir, _ . . Till. Mr. St. Ki.ias I«5 DJI lovcr I %» ^1 ''iZ {! I \ IV I)1:AR a mi: LI A: To \ isit Al.'iska I Tills, as v<»ii know, had Imtii a (Ircaiii <»!' iiiaiiv Ncais. I jiad listciKMl ciixioiislv (o tliosc who had Itccn there; I had I'ead e\-ei'\ tiling' w Ithin reach w hich a alonii', and run uj* to Alaska." 1 don't think I slej)t any more (piietly or soundly that niglit than did your little one when lie hung u[) his stocking on (-hi'istmas eve. ( )h, no I Womanlike, I \vas mentally })acking my trunk for the next few hours w'itli the many things which I felt sure would he indis[)ensal)le to my cond'oi't, and Fni«>>', Tf i -'i «i .nr • . i; I iH' h. 2 A WOMAN'S IKir /(> ALASKA. Ii}i\'iiii4' tilled one ill (In; usual style t«» siidi mii <'\t(;iil thai the lioi'i'i'l lliiiiLi' wouldn't, sliiit, I Ih^jjjui t<» ask Mjyscir liMW little Would }»(■ needed l>y \<)ur i'at!j(;i', juid vvliellier lie coidd n't llml room foi- a dress or two in Ills. I am not, Ljoini!' to tell \<»n w hat a Munder I made when I ically did lay out, my sloi-es for the eam)»aiL:ii, hut 1 am i^dini:; to do my hest to prexcnt, you follow iner\<' for cliureh, dinner, t h"at i-e, oi' <»eeasion of ('(ii'euiony, for I assin'(; you there are t\v<» or three [)la('es ('II roiilc whei-(; tlu' I'elinements and consent ioii- ;dities of life are stiietly (►l)s^a,l»les ; A lone' furdined (douk and an ulstei- (not, a heavy one), which ca,n he put on in a hui'i-y and niau to lun across to tln^ staihoai'd si(h' to see .'I ihousund feel of cas(\*id(;, \isi))le only foi' a few min- utes, us \\\Kt hoat s[)e(Mls j)ast it. A warm mull": you f m I'KI.IWK.i /(J.\S h(H< Dl.rM-rn Kli. 3 will IiikI l«»is .if MiiiiVs <.ii llic sliij), no doiild, l»ijt llu*y .(11 k(T|. tlicii- IimimIs in llicir ti"oiisli \<»ii 1imole and lied pr-ot i iidin^- just enoii'^li to impi-ess thesnioolh sui'hice of the lilaeial ice. A liLihl-w ei-jhl niaekinlosli, with hood A |»air of sinoke(| glasses. A nail- of |)ow<*rfnl ll«*ld-i:lasses. Do all this and y<»ii nre fiilK e(|ni)>|ted fof ihe joiiriK'y. Any ihiiiLi' else yoii take is sini|»lv liiijxdlm.ciiln. As my joiiiney from I he At,la,nli<- to the l^aeilic was so t horoiiLihly enjoyal)h' .-ind rest fid llint 1 w:is really loth !<» lea\e, the train wIk-ii I reache*! 'racoina, I <-aiinol Uet-tcr iiiiihed to that. (•il\ tt. (Ill fact I >iil).s(MjiH'iii 1\ IcaiiM'd tlial tllcVcnllld Iia\c IxM'li r||('ck('(I t ll f< ill'j li 1 Im' \\1i< »!•' < I is- t.'uicc I'lvtiii iii\ rcsidriicf ti. I'liLict SoiiikI Inf liall" a dollac <'acli, if I had ■><) d<'-^ir the latest aut hoi'it ies oil Alaska, ni\' land of Ncai's (tf jifoiiiisc and hope, and, now that my dream is heiii^- feali/e«|, I |ii-o- (•ee(| to d<'|\(' into the most feeeiit, lit efat Ul'«^ U|)<»li the sul)jee|. 'Idioii^h flafkiiess came niijcli (|ui(doi't unity hy daylii^ht of admifiin^ t he Ix'autiful \alleysand hill-sides of Lan- caster County, IN'iiiisylvaMia, all dfessed in tlmif sprin*^ attii'e, and althoiiLih we lost a view of poor .lohnstowti and tlie " I lorseslioe " on th<* Alle^hanies, yet next day utitil flv(i o\'lo(d\, when w<' reaehtMl ('hi<;aii'o, ther<' was a coiistaiit vari(^t\ of Interest inii;l.'indscap(;, wliicdi was most I I IIIICACO. orij<»yul)l<', tlinii-li iIh'Iv was littNt <.f it, wIi'k-Ii linocnMl in iiiv iiHMinu-y ill lli<* MiiLnist, pn'sciicc of natiiiv's wniidiM's ill Al.'iskii. A Hv<--li<>iifMM)i'('ul< at. Cliica^in alToidcd ii> an opportunity to i'lvslicii ii|> and \*k\ a ^cod (rmiicr at t,ln! Iti('li<'ii<'ii, a capital Iiotcl, nicely situate on Lake Miclii Wore a dress-suit, a diamond sliii't-stiid, and a watcli-cjiain of most attract- ive propoi'tioiis, insisted that he mu>i liave \i t/artym who spoke French, and this article heiiiir supplied, h(^ commenced
  • cussinLi' iIk- mnin in the \ ci-y worst French 1 e\ cr heard, and in >o h* id a \oice that h(^ impresse(i those wli<» did not kii(»w l»etler, that he was some remarkable per>oiia'je : w hen, liowe\er, 1m» se- leet('y the hand, with a *' Say, when did you i^'et ])a,ck '•? " from which I presumed that our Franco- maniac had just returne(| fi-oni a Fiiropeaii " towei'.'' T reLrret to sa\' that fi'om that moment t he dialoLi'Ue of /<^.sw/^> //,,/' /'/////.s- was continued in lioine-spuii I^Jii^lisli of a (piality us inferior as th<^ French, but the criti(usm of the \ iaiids, and the elevation of tlie lioj'deaiix to the i i; I lii I II r, ./ JraJA/.V'S* 77\'//' 7V) ALASKA. f'loctric, II*/-}!!; to lest, Its coloi', \v«'f'«' tiiaiiit.'ilns f oii'^lit, not, to vi'i'i'V to su<"li Iril'.'s; y<'t. tli<*y iuc iIm' iiuMflciits wliicli will !»(' met, witli .»ii a trip of tliis cliariK'tj'r, and s(;rv«^ lo illustrate tlic dinVrcnt, [)lias<'s of Amcric.'ui life. L(^aviii^' (/liicaL(o at, In i'.m., May lltli, \\(* an*iv(*d in Miiiiicapolis at; four next, afternoon, and stopped at, tin* \V(^st House, a really silperl* hotel, lim'X'eelled ;iiiy- where I |i;i\e (*\ el' IxM'll. I don't know' wliethc'r to e<(miiieii iiJ.'iijiir.Mcl lire I lilrty-s«'\'('ii t liMiisaiw! I>,'irr«*l> of lloiir ••;i(|i A\i\ ^ uimI acliially j»rM(|iicin^- aiiinially Im-- t\varr\ jtroprietors and eni|»lo\es. I r«'eo<_'-|ii/ed my fa\orite hraiid, and follout'd tin* JMOCCSSCS of its maiiiij'ac- t lire w Itli ex- treme Inter (*st,, IVom I lie rin<(\, placinL;' us in his j)ha(*ton, Ixdiind a pair of \^^Yy rapid jet hlacks, thus ji;ivinL;- us an oj>poi'tuiiity of see- in^• in a few hours ^vhat it woul 1 ha\(' taken us Jays to disc,o\('i' lor oui-selv<'s. I was faii'ly aniaze(I ai llie palatial icsidences ; with 1 he <'.\»*eptio)i of perliaps half a dozen houses, New V\)rk has nothing (•oiii|)aral)](Mn th«' \va} of hold and 1ast<'ful architeetui'(^, eond)in(M] with L»;i'eat solidity ; tlu^ \ari(d}' and conihiuMtions of colored stone ]»ai'ti('ulai'ly struck ine, especially a rev luai'kahh^ hleiidin^' of rc>ct\(' tlic beautiful iiifls of iial ni<', wliidi is a "jrcat conilort in a \\(»i'ld s<» i:i\('ii to strained <'IVoi'ts to eomjiele with t lie ( Veator; \v\ where t li<' liaM(liei"aft and (ast<' of man are essential, as ii' the const ruet ion of th<'ir niassi\<' |iul»lic huildiuLi's, the |te(»|)le of Minneapolis are uiisui' passed. 'I'lie cliui'chcs, lihrai'ies, l»aidtories, and is const i'U<-ted upon (he hiLdiest principles of aj-chitcct ui'e as to lin'ht, air and strentilii ; tliei-e seemed (o he no(lnn<:' about it tliat had not its nli.son J'rhu. 'Idle \ ie\\ of the sui'i<«iiiidinL:" coimtiy from tlui toj> (»f it is simply superb, reach- in '_:,• to " \V'li.t\- tint falls (,t Miniicliaha flash aixl L;icaiii anions tin- oak t 1C(,'S, I.auuli and leap into the \allcv." w ^ f ciiAi'Ti:!; II. K I' ■! ■'^. T li\f ill the .'iricninoli, M;iV Kit It, {^r~\ we (ilKM- |||i>!'c lilKl (»III'S('l\('.s ill ;i I*iilllii;iii <»iii, .•iikI ;is w «■ Iin\«' ii<>\\ t l|s t liat the a|»;irt iiMMil li;is l»eeii Jii;i(le even ! I lore e(»>e\ t li;ili t lie one \\ liidi I d'oll-jlit lis IVoiii New ^'oik ; at all <'\ eiiK, it jijis ('\('r\' tliiiiL:' tli.'il the most I'a-t i(li(»iis person coiiM w isli ror,aii!(' at the V.\{\(', con- fr(-t('iups!\\\ii\ soiMctiiiics hajtjM'ii e\<'ii in the wondcifiil Piillinaii s\stem aic a most iiiu'casonal/lc set,: oiircom- nartmciit. is ji ciitc! litJh^ salon 1>\ day, where we arc; lia,]»p\' in the t/olcn far ii'nntr^ with oiir l>o(dule .MS w <■ I'oi' :i < tliiit <'\ cii , il iiiis lidioiis I cnlll- ■|»rl l<'ss eastern \\v, coil- lidrl-fill iill' (■(»|ii- \\<' Ml'<* ,s <.'!' ill (Mii<'nc(', ; wllit*'- ly ill th* ;stil)iilt'i'()il<'d salmon .steak, cxcellonl ;ind w eII-co(»kef| cliops, delicious \\ allies, sti'aw I )ei'|'ie>, (■a|»il.'d lea, and lots of <»l liei- L:;<»(»d I liiiius, if \ oil |if(d'ei'!'e< that I do not iiii-«^ them. Think of it, I retire \\\ nine <»'cloek, ;ind sleep pe;ieefllll\ until ei'_iht. I ll,'l\e Itijt olie iirr'iin p'tisi,, one niiiht mare : will I teii-mont lis-(dd Imhv (there Is alw.'iNs one to ea(di car) \'e!l in the niuiit l>e- t WCell the iiitel'\;ils (»f j »;ire'j'ol'ic '. It is Satiiivjay inorniiiLS May ITtli, and I ha\e slept delicioiis|\ : if tlie l)al)\ crie(l I was too uiiconsei(»iis to ol)ser\(' it, l)iit altoiit foiii' in the niorniiiL;' I was awak- ened hy .'I e|ia!«U'c ill the t eliipei-at lire ; it had become inten>el\ cold, a;^! j made u-ood use of the e.\tra hlaiiket. Upon arisiiiL!' I liml we are out on tlie tree- less prairi<', c(»ate(| with a li<_rht fall of snow. Foi' I shoidd think two hundi'ed miles we IraAcI on in a straiLdit lin.' aciftss t his vast expanse (d* plain with no speck of foliaife '.xceptihi^ her** and there wh<;re tlic I, i I J IJ / irc.i/.i.v'.s I Kir /(' .//../.SAM. [ ' -v. 1.1 ' I! . li \{ 5i sell Id' i-- iii.-jkiii'j ;i rriiitl<'s> clVoil t<. raise a few si ri|tliiiL:s : ycl I am t<»lw is ;in iiniiitei'est iiiin with hot ;ind e«)ld water, ;i!it -, little shel\<'s an(| I rays in caiNctl ni.'iho'jaiiy, ad;. |)tal)le to all the iii.'in\' necessities of ;i wonian\s toilet' a little />l'/\ iiide men in the rn>li to L!et to the eoiiiiter of the \vaysi(h' station and e lives af<' lull of saerilice, iium«»lation of sell", and iHiiiUof lieart. IVismarck is full of proud and tender m<'mories [oy me. S<'ven vcai's a'/o I ]eane(] iiji )n tile arm of our Lji-eat hero ( ienerai (ii'ant th(*rf; li^ w (^ walked loiTct lier to t h(! cei'einoiiv of ded ieat iiiL'' th(^ Stale House, foll(»\\ed l>y Jl column of di-'tintjuished men, anioui!' w hom wcie M i. \'il- iard, Ml'. i'Aarls, meml»ei-s of t lie I )ip|(.matic ( 'orp<, and <»t Ih'I's who were ( n rnlept in t he woods, LT'it wet and dust v, frozen and l»roile.|, aeciH-dluLf to the altitude to whicli We <*linil)ed, ,>r from which we deseeiide(|. and was inor<' rati'jued al I he expirat inn .»f \n\ lour days' jolt than 1 would l»e in a rullinaii eai- in a month. It was ^S I A. i4 / //vy.//. /.\"S I Kir ■/(> . I /..ISA'. I U 'V ■|- n oil lliis «>c<-asl()ii ;il liisiiiarck lliat 1 was witiH'ss \i> an <;|»!,s(»(|(; wliicli is worlli ivroidin-j'. Sillln'j; liiill aii !iinawa\ hoi's*- at thetii'and !'e\icw in Wa-hiii'jton in 1 8< iJie, a!i(| so was his mnidei-cr. '\\ ».), was l,.d' or(! ie|'<' Was hilt one >! I can- not woi-k m\- se lip to an thv h }' s\in|»atl!\ lor the Imlian. I lia\e seen the iioMe ivd man at home, with hi- lilth and hi> \ ice, his dishonesty, his ciiiiiiiiiM', and liisgc^iiej'al iiii- KJi ,.{1 I •I i ■X it MANDAN ANn I III: HAD LAXDS. 15 r<'li;il»ilit V, .'iMclia\ i<»r ;iiihy-iira\ hill of elephantine form, tliei'c a red (MMie as perfect, as thouLii) just, from the moulder's hands, aizain a p\'raiiiid, and then dozens of coim-s and j)yramids, and tliis continues foi- a huisdred, na\, two liiUMli'ed mihts. Often thela'_;' <»r refuse (»f tint hurnin^^ liirnite, \\hi(di is fretpiently found and ^omc^times mined amonii tliese hills. Wliat struck ni(* as tint most remaj'kahhi feature; of this woii- diM'ful and enigmatic foiinati(»n, was a series (»f well V Ati^ --«-**>^ifc*«-,>,(t»> i if, ,/ If/ I l/.l VS //:■//■ /I I .1/ .l\A'.l. ;!■, '• I ,1 M' I > I 111 <|r|iii<'(| li lil.-nlr l||Hi|| I lie > lin|( • < .f ;i ri\cr |)V I In- li-c ;iImI f-'lll of I Ik- ti(|»'. .\n\\ I ;ilii ||<»| ;i ■_'('< »|n'ji -I, imr <'iiiir<' r<"ji<»ii \\.'i> tlic hoiiom of one or iii(»r ;i- l.-ir-jf ;i^ I-.-iki's Miclii'jnii .'iikI I'j'ic, or ;i-- siii;ill ;i"- lli(»^<' wliidi cdm-v ;icr<'S of \Vi-<'on>iii ;iihI M ililM'->ol;i, ;iimI lli;il l)\ some |tror('s- of <'\ .'ii »oi',it ion, or 1)\- IcakuLic <»i' l.-iiluif of siij»|il\, llicy iii';ic w.-ilci"- iii;irks upon the Iiill-'licll> ;ir<' fouinl licr<' in ;il»iin s.-iid ih.-ii ii ri'jnt ion will ni;ik(' the ^oil |»ro(|i:ct i\c While I ;ini I liinkiiiL!' of it, Ii<»\\ ('\ cr, ;iii(l |M'rliM|is \\a>tin'j' my t inx- in conject- ure, we stop .'it .Meijor.'i. i lere i> t lie w reck of ;i, once tlirivin-j' pl;int .-ind settlenienl roun/. J/(>U/:.S' S( IIIMI:. i; ^1 |,y 111.. |.(M,|,lr wlm .I1..11M know Im-I, llinl lil- |»l;iii \v;is ;,ii <..\.-.-ll.-iit ..IH-, ;iii••' lH-<-;iiTi<«l Milt -ii.-cr^^riilly, 1,111 l;ick of l.ii>iii<-s^ cxiHTiriic.' :iihI t;i<-t \\.-isi1m- r<;il ■;ii|... (.r \\\< fniliiiv. II.- .-I;il)lisli.-.l !l,.- r.-u-l, li..\v.-v.T, • ,1 rMttl.' would r.Mltcii Ikmv, mikI llint iIm'V ••••111.! ,<|ily 1h- |.iv|.;ii.'.! r..r -.Mrr ^lii|nii<'iil t.. iIm' Alluiitic ilM.ar.j. <.!■ •'l*io!i' i;iii'-li '" l;il>l«',"" a^ lli<- Mai'.|iiis <-j,iLM-;ui iii:.li<-all> sl\i.l/.l.\ 'S /A7/' /" .l/..IS/\.l. Look I ML!' .'I I III- ll<»l|>(' ;i||i| I lie 1 li;it llic s<'li('iiM' w MS a f;iiliii'<*. No wi'mIiIi woiiM comi M-ii-;ih* for SIK'll ;i life lo <.||r .'icfll^l nli|('( | |m ||i<' wIiII'I of l||f IIK'l I'ojioli- : rr/(f 1(1 ih so'i || \\ ,'i>. .'i I (Mil I ) l< ' >;i<-|i lice. Allot her iii'jiil of (•«»iiir(»rl;iM(' -.Iccii ;iii jn-l ,•{> a -prin-j' (|;i\ oii-jlit to— siiii-liiii\ , |»l<'as;iiil ly w arm, ;iii(l ;i <'l(';ir sky. 'I'liis IS lo l»(' ;i (k'i\ of l;iii(|- ,'iii(| \\ atd'-scajx', ><» w*- t;il\<' oiir <'aiii)>-s|fi(»N aii tdic track follow- tiic inc;iii(|criii'j' coinsc of I In- ureal ^'ell<)\\■-tolle I{i\er, with it s rapid- and waler- falls, its precipitoiis hank- and r(»iiiid caii\oii-, its Indians and its cowhoys,- -jiri ('V('r-(diuii<_dnL( vvhii'I of 1 taiiora Ilia, til roiiLfh which \V(* j)ass so J'apidly that before the oft-repeated <'cho of <»iir shrill whistle has iL 'I III. vh.i.i <>\\'sii>.\r: iWRK. '9 \ < » 1 1 llic III.- :lit This <»iir ;iii(* of ;ilcr- \ <»||S, ■I <1I»'(1 ;i\\';i\' ii)MHi ;i >«-cin' of <'ric|i;iiil hhmiI, ;iiimI Imm' sllll jiiMiv iM'.-iiilIfiil siiitmhimU us, cII'mcIii'.'' all i<-cm||('c||mii of ii> |ii'»Mi('c('ss<»r, till iIk' adiiiiriii'j' <■)<* a;i«l liuiiLTy s(»iil Im'<-oiii(' saliat<'(| willi a kal«'i| tin- siiMinn'. Ask(o«-it<' | (ict- iijc (»r iIh' whole, il ini'jlil laiiilU coMSi'V an icf'|)t ic a- il liiiiiTiN in i!iy iiM-nioiy w hil<' I write. Ai nine in llie nioniiirj' wei'eadi liiNin-j,-- t<»n. and lieje I e\|»eri ice I Im* lir-t and only disaj»j»oinl inejii of in\ tiijt. Tlii- i^ IIk- eiil raiice to 1 iie ^'e| jow'^l oiie I'ai'k. Scwcn years a '_'■<, | |e|'i ihe train at llil^ |»oiiit and went olV Oil the little hfaiicli load toC'inna- l)ai', and thence se\'en oi' eiiiht. miles in a ,sta'j(; to the .Maiiinioth ilot S)triniis. Oh, ye licysei's and yoii |(»\('Iy canyon, with }'oiif iiiaiA <'lioii-, waterj'all, nni-t I |)a>s \()ii all l)y as I hniTy on to Alaska f Alas, the shi|) will he, waiting' i'oi- nie al TacfMiia, and I lia\e jti'oiiiised to l»e there. I>ear ohi N'ellovvstoiie Park, I T see plainh' \oiir snow-clad Jiioiiiitain^, I almost, Iieai* the roar NK l-AI.I.S. •' oi.n lAi I III I i.r 21 / i ; f '• OM j'ail lilHI'"" ' |tuiiri n.il ••niiiiii.'- .•iiid L'<»lii'-r •** ♦'"• t,itl<'t iipnii llio-.*' I»ci'_'lit <-«>|iii'- iiii-<'<'ii aii\ "Ucw li<'i'«'. Oh, r<»r MiM' l,s wIm'Ic -oai- tli<' caLfh*, ainl l'>r an li<»iii' l)i--.if|f I li< »-<• fat li<»iiilc-*s |jik«*s nf ••iiM-i.il'l iiiii'i'oi-' ;in fa)' : 1 f my lil'f i-< -.|»;(|c(| I ||;i\ •• not -t't'll \ <»l| I'oi- 1 lif la-1 t iiiM' : and \ < \n<- arc ,-iicli r-it'at iii«'- of .•irniiii-! anc's and coiiclit ioii- ihai I fct-l lik<^ <'.\claimin'_'' " Lascniti 01/ m .>yy^- ntii:-.!! ri,i rlii Sn\ I hI fUh'. Onl\' a f<'\\ \('ai'- aifo I lod^ witli I*r<'sion StaLf*'!', and rajttain Clat'kf-', 1 lii'oii'jii the laiK's and a>'fo>>- tln^ il. •<'!•< .,f this wondf^f hand. All '^• lioiir is on<; of -ad mcinoj-ics and di^aj)j)oii;t nicnt^ : let me Lj;<*t ha'ds to the I lain and |ca\<' \\\i'. ]>ast l»rhiiil\ ; the aeeom- !! k wmfmtmtmmmt'm'~ y^Mn^iiitiggiv^vmmr.-i^rj 1> hi in r-^ li, < f i ! 22 y] IVOMAN'S J'R/P TO ALASKA. tnod.'itioiis \v<'i'<^ not lit, lor iiiuii or* hcust, iiiiicli less for woiiiJiii. All 1 liis, lio\V(iV(ii", h.'is c.li.'iui^cd siiicc^ tli(M'oiii- plc^tioii of tli(^ r.'iili'oad, jiikI it, now ho.'ists of .'in adiiii- rji]>l(^ liotcl (tlie Hro.'idw.'itcrj uiid .-i luxiii'ioiis nisd nuiiii- motli hutliini^-houHci. L(!.'iviiii^ II((,(/ no iti^ i<>!/(ii/<., who were destineassc-iiL;ers ai(,- nut served to their salisfacliDn, the laii slnmld he repnrted to the dinint^-car eon liictor. All meals 75 rents. 1 assuiii you it tasted just as good as It I'eads, and I (en- joyed it tlioi' .i/..i.\/s iii^lil, .•iikI I w a^ i/.i.\"s I Nir /(> .U..ISK.I. I R > Vn On iIk' iiioniiii'j' <»!' M;i\ I'.mIi, Indkiipj' out <•!' tlic wilnlnW ;il iii\ licil-iilf. I I'mIIIkI Iil\ sell* cllM'iyili'j- flnlil lli<' locks ••(•(•iK'iN III" ('l;irk^ I'urk, ;iii(| ;irh'r\\ ;ii-ill'J I Ik- ('(Imc (.r ;i "hc'iljl ifill sIk'cI i)\ w.'ilcr: Sf» liiiM'yiii'j' wiili my toilet, I \\;is >«m»ii oiit <»ii the i-c.-if j>l;it foiiii ;il)^ni-lM'(| ill the cli.-iiiii-- of ;i ) •.•iii<»iaiii;i di- tii-<'I\ iiiiiik<- llic wiM riiL;'_i<'ii;iri<'-, \\li'» ritiiml !li<- jiidi.-iii-- iinlul^'iiiL:' in tlic li;i|-nilcsv r;i--lliin;ilt('i'- iiiLi;<>r l^'rciicli, I know ndl, l»iit I i|<» know i li.il. t lioiiifli not " ni;iiviii»*'l witli fniit-^ of 'johl,'' il w.'i>, w Ih'Ii I saw it, n r\\"AV lake, '' 'jlassin-j' softest >ki<'s."' ami alto- L[<'t licr lo\ ('1\ ; ami it must Im- \ cfv l.'ii'je too, fof \\v wefc fiinniiiL: al<»iiLi'-«i«l<' (,f it for fully two hours. It is said to 1)1' tin- paradi-e of tlie ,>|»ort>inaii. aUoimdiir,!' in Ix-ar, elk. deer. |ili<'a-aiit -. wil^ca>oii is at its Itc-'t. Sonic of lliis l>i<'' Liaiiic, of course. I was not permitted to see, l>iit I call \o!ic|i for the I rout, which I lia\e eaten, and lor the thousands of wild dii(dliould liaxc said <'it\ will '_''i\<' tin- l^astcrnci- an idea of what can Im' accM)n| lii-licfl 1)\ ;in liidiisi ri( hi- <-o|()ii\ of A nn-i-ic-m <'iti/('n-« w Ik'ic naliir<- |fnd< tlicni a Ik'I] iiii'_!' hand. S. h I'll RANK lAI.I.S. I^r<»wiK Iw't I'-adiii'j' ••ilizciiv of ilic |ilac('. [ st()j>jM'd <»\ci- Ik'Cc a IVw 111. nr- ( Inr we had a '-[M-cial li-aiii and loilci'cd a-; \' <• liked) Id Imtk a! the niaL!"nIlic<'iit water- fall. I d(» not think ihen- wrr<' a dozen h mso llier<' at that time, yet lo-da\ it hoasts a |><»j»iilat ion of i.xcr twenty thousand, all the lesidt <»1* lit iliziii'j' l he ticmeii- (loiis \vater-|»ow('i' of the "falls." I reiiienioei' witii t I ■ \ I ■ f/ I I I lil I 28 / //VAl/./.\\S I'Kir li> ALASKA. '\ 1 Hi \i I ! I'Clfl'cl, llial il))t in tlic \\al<'i-an(| lli<'siir- i'<)ini -anie land, :ind s<»l«l it at an ininMMise prolit. Last year it uas sii))j»ose(| to have .siilTei'ed from an extw<'])t away the hiisiiiess jtait of tli(* town, l»iit to-(h'i\, as )naL(ni(icent edljjces of sojirj masonry are replaciii'j' the shanties of the past, the lire i- coiice(|c(i t<» liavc Iteeii a Messiii'j:'. I !»<*!i<'\e the (|;i\ is wi'-.w .-it hand when S[)okaiie. will l)e a second .Millll<';i|»o|i>, f(»I' it [lossesscs }>otli the water-).tower and the crops which lia\e ma(|(^ th(^ latter LiJ'eat. V y tot his point, for t hree w hole days tli<* (;y«' has seen so much that i> new aixl sL-nt liii;^', that it: l)e(•oIn(^s wear\' iust wlu^ii t In; scener\- ''i-ows Hat ami iini!it(M'(?stini^ ; in fact the millions of acres of sa<^(^- i^rass and sand thi-oiiLih which \\<* now pass alTords us just the I-est we iiee(|. j iie\cr fully reali/,eokaiie l'\'ills t<» I*asco, it was hecaiisc I neeiled it and was not missin;:' any thiiiLi', Wdien this desert is irrie;at(id and l>ec()m<'s a garden of orchai-vake : hut really I saw nothintr worth descrihinii; until j)assinLr thi-oii'jh the promising towns <»f Xortli |L l.l/CS/XC /.\ (//>/:. \7'S. 2i) Yakim.'i ;iimI I']II<'iisl)iirir w*- <'<)iiniicnc<'(l the ax-cnt of \\\v ('a-c;i(|(' .Mountain^. Ii h wortliy nf mciit ion, liow- «'V<'i-, tliat iM-ar ^^•^kilMa is a \«'i-y iloiifisliinij' iniLfatccI raiicli. <-all<*<| ilic .Muxii* h'aciti, iiiaiia'_'' j»i<>\<'(| so >iic('('^-.fnl in t lie cult iii<; of t<»l»acf(( t liat a nianiifactoi-\' li;i- IxM-n <'-tal»lisli('(I iIu'I-*', w lii«'li i- 1 nrfiiiiL'' out \Nliat the inf-n r;ill '- ;i lii'jh 'jiadc of cii^ai'. " .Mon<»tonoiis ;i> was t lii-^ (lay's \ I'ij), t Ii(M'<' wc'I'c many in- ciflcnt- w liicli aniu~iii'jl\ hrokr In upon it \i\y iiistaiic(f, at su|>|M-r \\<' found a st i'anii<'i*, who liad conn* altoaid at I'a-^ro. lookiu'j' imli'jcnou^ tot In- soil.aij'o<»(| (|<'al of w liidi lie ••aiiif'd upon lii> |»<'r^<»n : he was «'\i(|('nt l\ (la/,«'<| l)\ t lie -ocict \ in wliirli lie fouii(l li i ins«'l f. a n< 1 did his Ik'sI to adapt hiiii-cif to th<' manner^ and <-ii«.i(tni^ of his fellow -p;!>.-('nL!t'i-. Px'inn' hainh'd a na]»kin, he rar<*- fully >ui'\<-\<'(| 1 he company, and lindin-j' tliat s(,nM' of tlic m<'n hay ), lie ])romj»tl\' did tlic same, and t hen, enlii'elx unconscious of tlie ohject of so ph-icin'j' it, l»iittone(| his coat <»\-er it, nnn-h to ou!" (h'li'_rht and editicat ion. Then he ate litei-allv of evei'\' thitii^ on the l»ill of fai'e, and when t horoU'_ih!\' 'j-id'ifcMl stj'(^t(died lilmself out and pi<-ke(| Ins teeth witli a resoiindiiiLr smack, the proud j>ossessei' <»f a h»rdl\ aj>- petite and a dipy. And just liei'e is a 'j'ood phice to say that sometimes comim: hate to oiii- meals we find tli(^ coloi'eim.'W*rr vw ij g| »t f «w m mM f^tk ««s-«w - r, I ,f i m I If It i R 30 / //Vy.l/J.V'.S /A7/' /(> .l/..l.\A.I. ikhi" It H('lia\c<| in llic most <1(m;<)I'oiis maiiiMT, iicitlicr caliiiL'- willi llicir kiiiscs, iioi- l>y any hi'cach of ct iijiict tc oi laM*- inaiiiicr'- doiiiLf' lln' slii(lit(ist iliiiiL;; to <-\cil(' cril icism : *>\i lln' (-((iitrar^, they coiiM oiv<; lessons l<» iiiaii\ of tlic iMtisteroilis <^i',]\\\{'Mi('.ii (() \v:ivtt\U'Vs wlio ((Mislaiil ly jostled n<. Illiisti'atin'j^ lli«' slfails to \vlii<'li tlie settlers are put upon tliel)- ari'ival «»ul lieie, j caniK*! help sj)eakini^ / of a ijUeer little tejnp«»r-aiy struct ure .. wlii'-li I saw huilt wim^^f over ;i j.ile «.!' lire- \Vooad- Ij'er. !l coll- sisted of t \\('. Hllo\\-l)ill of a <-irciis and sonic pieces of old inatiiiiL:; propjicfl ii|) upon hall* a e(|-tent. We woiid(^red li<»w lont^ it would take him, in a country like this womN'rl'iil State- of Washiiiiitoii, to pass I hi<»iiL?li ""^""■^^...rr ■> •I I III: ( .\S( .\ni: M(>r.\ I .u\s. 3' ill** sl}iL''<*s wlildi slioiiM Iti'iiiii; him t<» \\u-nfiinn cuin. (Ilt/nt/oli of u (^)iHM'ii AiiiH' <'MllaLr<^ «'ili«l a |mi|cIi. L('jiviiiL( lOllcrisldiiy we icallzc llial. we ar«' coiniiij^ 1(» \\\^^ (MmI nf (Hif fca^t, aixl as iii'jlit closes in oil us we Imvj-Iii Io look ii|) >lia\vl-sl raps aiMl 'jrl|>-sacks, as we lia\(' 1<» tichark early <»ii I Ik* morrow , I'lifor't iiiialiily I Ik- r.-i-cadc .Moiiiitaiiis were cro-^sc*! (Iiiriii'j' I lie iilL'"lit, ;ili!t> of tll<' I)eil\<'r .'ill(| Itio (iraiiilc route tlieif i- iio ^pot on tin- <-oiit iiifnt w li(;re t lie iii.-ijc^t i<' w <»ik of t lie ( re.'iior is s(( skilfully si;pj)|(v iiieiitcil \)\ I lie iii'jeniiity of jiiMii. I''(»i' miles aiiiii'moiijit, while the wild torieiit of ;i rl\-er rushes and jiluiiLi'es iiiidei" you ainl *)\i'V you and nil around )'oii, .as tlioiiijh in aiiL'ty indiiriiat ion at your in\a>^io||, and a million stalwart firs, immense in height ;iiid thickness, sta?id as lliev lia\ e stood for cent uries await iIl^■ the doom whi(di th<' little saw -mill in I he \alh'y is preparini^' for them. At the siimmil we enter th(; famous StaiMjxMle tun- nel, almos* tw<» miles in leiiiilh. lit up hv incandescent. liL'"hls, in which we are impri- »ned lor elev\\ il<-lit>,'i. '. iii^ liiiili<'i> witliuiil (lie lo-.«< <»f a. -iii'jl*' life. II<*i<' a'jaiii \\<' 'jd a -till l»cttc|- \ icw <»f iIk- iiit cicah- aii.f|iic (iivcii |;i\ cr, w lii<-li >-la\ - l)\ w^ un- til \\c rcarli I Ik- |<-\c!, }»i«»a(| ri(yallii|> \'al- I«-\ , fciio \ ii«ii(|('rfiii \ ic|«| (,r Imp-. |*iarl\ iii I Ik- fall tin- li<»| I- H<-M- nf I lii-, ploJilic \al|('\ wvy a cliaiJiiiii'^' >iM.\. 3.^ wllli llifir »«(jii;i\\-. j»a| «»•»><•> ;iii<| •Im'j's, and camp lil\<' (TNps'n'S l)V llic ii»a t<» rarrv iiit- to Alaska, it was witli sin- cere r«*L;r«'l l liat I left I lie ••omfoi't > ainl liixiii'i<^s of ti-a\<'| wlilcli I lia«l ('XjM'riciir*'*! in that train JVoni tin; Mississipjii Iti\ci' Jo the i'acilir Ocean. •Lit' Tin-. \VIIAI<\ KS ATTACOMA, • . f'r. i ;i i i ; .: ! B'. i 1' i ^i! f' ( IIAI'MKi: III. N tin- -iimiin-i' of IHS.", y(.ii will iciiiciiiljcr I was one (»1 a )>Mily \vli<» \it('(l i'(.r 1 Ik* ><•!«•(•- tioi) of lliis >)M)t a> til'- \\<'"1«*i'ii tciiiiiiiii- «»r tills 'ji-<'at lii'jliuay. It, wa- iIh'Ii a - y tail, ♦' 't SoiijmI. Tiioifjli I was iK.t iikI'- <'Ii<»ii'j1i t< .'>s it to my l,,,>t, I do iK.I now li<'-ita1<' to >a\ tliat it (li ac^'onimodat ion- and loo(| were any tliiii"- bill. sati-l'actor\. Its str(M*ts wdv iinpavfMl aii JAJ.VAJ. n I t*^:- M ti I' ii I In" it tr(M;-HtiiiM|>s, st ill iiiai'kiiii^ 1 li<^ H'VA'.ut cxisteiKM^ of (he |»i'iin<'\;il loi'cst. Tlicrc wcic tlicii hut ilwcc. I)iiil(liiii:-s (»!' iiiiy |»r(^t(Misi(nis in the |»laj<'<'t ol' iiilci-cst \\;is llicOM 'I'acoiiia saw-mill, .'ihoiit two iiiilrs dislanl, and llici littl(^ town siii'i'oiiiidini^ it, cxccjtt iiiL:' w Ihmi llicdonds liftr<>c('ss of liflinLf, l>y-l lu'd)y, iicNcr look pl.-icc while I was tlicfc.-it 1 lial, t inic, s(, t liat I hciifan to iM-licvi* its iM'autii'ul lines .'ind its snowy lio<)d wci'e all a ni\tli. Sciveil years li;i\<' come and L;'oiie, .-iiid se\ en times ji\'e thousand |»eoj>le li,'i\e eonie ,'iiid st;i\<'(l licic since; th(;n ; not only st.'iyed In i*e, hut tliey li;i\e prospered anw iii\est<(| in l)ajiks, ma!iul*;ictories, storehouses, hainlsome shops, one <'li;irinini;' hotel and m.-iiiy others of less j)i-(;teii- sioiis, a iinix'ei'sity, two <»r thi'ee colh-ires, a (h)/en Hchooldiouses and as man}' cIiui'cIk^s^ m ])eautii'iil thea- trt;, and eveiy thiiiL!; that si^oes to m;i,ke up nrliaii life. Its society is simply delitrjiirnl, composed of people; iVom the lari!;er Kastei'ii cities, many of lliem young mai-ri(Ml folks, starting- lile jiiid " irrowini:- up with tin; counti-\'," hut carrsiii''' with them t<» their \'',\v W'estej'M iiomes such (»f the conventionalities and I'ejinenients of city life; as hest secure the anieiiitie's which ai'e indis- j)eii,sahl(3 to well I'en'ulatcMl society, omittiiiLi; oidy those fonrialities which chill liospit.'ility and ii sil \\ii in (nic of (li()s<* ('liai'iiiiii^ly fiiniislMMl hoincs yoiii- i'<^(M'pti<>ii I UKl your (liiiiKM- ',[}-('. ju ;t, tl ic sninc ;is \(»ii liavc <'\ }><'rit3n(',(i(','ic()ii Sli-ccj, Fiftli Avenue, oi* Walnut Sti'tM't. Tlie eliina, the i^lass, tln^ llowei-s, tlie na|)eiy, tli(! cookiuL;", aneH of lumJM'i' or coal oi* udieat foi- l^iiLi'Iand, Aus- ti'alia, (dnna, Japan, San 1^'i'ancisco, and Soutli i\ni(;i'ica; V 8()ine ol th lem na\ e hroULT ht carii'oes o f tea from the ' if I il I I! m I 38 / iro.l/.I.WS I Kir 10 ALASKA. Ori(^lll,, ollicis li;i\(' jll>I S and l"oiinensiMe <»!* a I'CSlless acli\il\ | »e|'\ adin-J IIm' jieople, whose li\('s seem lo l)e de\ (»|e(| t o i ndef.-i t i'ja I )l<' I < )1 1. To. 'I d\\(dle|' in llie I'iast W lio ||;is heeil tol'lured l)\ I lie ^lo\\ |»|(»cess <»r Ma^t in-j- and a <|lleslio|| wl e| hep lie will llNC lon-j" eiioii'jii to '_'•('! into il, it is ;i. s> nsatioii to waldi 1 lie e\o|iit ion of a few lo;id> of |il;ink ;iiid l»(»ard-« into a j»l'etl\ <^)i|ee|l Anne eotla'je, as lia]»|teiis e\'e|-\ week in Tacfima ; in fael, I know of one, case { 1 hat of Mi-. L \\\ VIEW Ol'- rALlMC AVi:.\L'li. I« I 7//rv>j/j. .VJ .•iimI Mis. ( '. I*., ;i iK'wK iii;in'i<'(l (•(»iij»i<') wlicic liu* ciih'i'iH'isiii'j' \'>iiiiLi' li(»iiscls(M'|)('rs were icsidiii'j in llicir lioiiH' ill l<'ss lli;iii ;i fort III ulit nrirr tlicy \\m\ sclcch* I ;i silc I'm- il. 1 <';illll"| >;iy t lie) l)uill it IVniii cclljir h) '_:;irrct in icn i.\ i<«>iiis ;iiircli .•iikI ;i sliiii'jlr i'<>(»|', .'iimI was not «»iil\ linhitahh- hilt (|iiil(' " si \ lisli." '' Tlx- 'l';icoiii;i '" lidtcl i^ well l«| »('cl s \\ |||c|| ;i |c iin lc| x-lK I- (•lit L. ,- jr-^ 40 J //V;.I/J.\"V 7A7/' /V^ .]/..] SKA. V I M l! I army; .'HkI in the cvciiiii-j it was (jnil*- llatlrav<* men had failed, noj* wh(^thef the Russian eaiilcH would not still 1»(^ ilyinii' at Sitka; hut I mnei- look U[)on tiieii* )-anks and tatt<'re(| jla-j's v\iihout a jtatriotic s('ntinient of ^jvttitude for all they accom[)lishe(| for us and foi' j»ost<'rity. i\ few days may 1»<^ well s|»(;nt in 'I'acom.'i ; thei'c are many int<'i'est in<^ .-uhI ))j<'tty tjiin-js to see, niid the distance's are easil\' ovei'eojue }>\' a system of electric jailways carryiiiL^ you in <'\('i-y diiectioii ; and let m(* say just here that tint \V(^stt .;, people fi-oni ('liicaLJo t.<) San Francisco are far ahead of us in th(Mi' sti*mjM'lle(l to use daily, the speed, if sjkmmI it can he cjdlecl, seems to he re'julat<'d to fatten the IkM'scs and afford <'a<-h passenL'cr ;in opportunity to i-ead a novel or take a nap. The Anni(! W^riiiht Seminary for Younj^ liadies staned can he seen i'\y'X\ \' i-efei-rinLf' !<> my notes I <*oidd tell \oii e\actl\' how inaiiN' million^ of feet of wood are cut here e\eiy \('ai', l>iit yoii would f; ', it, as I ha\(' done; so I will run <»n and sa\' that Aniei'i can Lake an«l Lake Steil.'icooni, which are l><»th on the same dii\'e, and ahout, twehc miles from the <*ity, ,'ir<^ widl woitli a \i-it, ii<;l onl\' hecause ut the Li'randest si^jlit of nil. and certainly the most fascinatinii" noi't h of San I'ranci^co oi- >outh of Alaska, is Mount 'Tac<»nja. I shall iie\(-i- forn<'t the Hcuisation of its first (lawniiiL'" U]><)ii me — ahout the thiivj day I was in '^Factoma. We wcic walking" aloni^ (i Sti'eet, I'.ear the park, wIkmi m\ esc(>it e.\'cl;iime(h " liook at Mount Tacrofna," |>ointin!i' in the dir(M'tion to which I had looked in \ain from sutii'isji till dark in tlui ho[K^ that tlie l(»weriiiLi; clouds would dissolve or disperse and open it up to \iew. liOokiiiLi' in t he (jirection indicat(*d, my fli'st impF'essioii wa-; one of disappointment. To m>' e\e it was nothiiiij' hut a \er\ oi'diiiar\' emiiKMice, h d %\ \% 42 A //Vy.|/j.\".s /A'//' 7" ALASKA. \ ., -till <'fl))>-<'k«Ml. '• \\"«'ll. ically, to Ix' frank wiili \'»ii."' j rcplic'l. 'I ail! tciiiMy cj)ai"at.(f rcalK tli*- inoiijitaiii itself; ;iii) >ot , ^raziii;.'- \sith all the \\< U'lenuciit of a ehiM lo(»kiii'_'' f<»r ihe fli'->t time at HOIlK' new ejcutioli Ik- (joe- not cojuliielieil'l. ''If I rievf'j- -('(' ;ui\' tliiu'J e|-e |,ut tliat, I alf/lo>l hieatij- h^'^sK' e.\'elai)[ie(|. ''I au) mofe than repaid for my two trips across the e(;iit iuent. I»eautifui ! tii'aiid ! maj«^H- tic ! neNei'-chaii'j'iML'' luouiitaili ! There ynu ha\ <• stoo*!. aixl there will \<*u '-tand for all time, re-jai'dle-- of tln^ mutatifjii- 'joi !)'_'• Oil aj-otind \'ou, ( "is'Ilizat ion tuay ad- \anee. harhari-m ma\ ei^mc a-jain, -iM-ptre- juay Ix^ .shattered. 'j'oN'ernmenl-- nia_\ fall and new one- i-ise, ealamit\' of war and Jloofj luay sweep pi-jniv' hiim;inity from the earth, l)Ut \(»u will remain unehan'_'e(|. lui- nio\al»le. to sur'> )\e it all. It i- not youi* eur\e-, uor \ our ere\'a-ses, \'our 'jlaeiei'-. \'our t int -. nor \h. as 'jlad. and a-- honest as it is to(la\ ! Thanks. Ix-autiful '''lacoma." for remalnliiLr out in the sunli'jlit and the m<.'-v »f in\' sta\' within -I'.dit of \ou. Hon\ I en\ y the cloud^. which lia\e \'ou >o often e.\clu>i\'(d\' to them- i * ;#' I \ 44 J im.i/.i.ys /A7/' '/(' .//../.sA'. ;, selves! I !iee<| iii>| the \\lii-|)C|' \\lli«'ll lells me \(»l| lower lie.'U'lv I. "».<)()(» feel .mIx.nc the SCM, ailV llioic lliaii I WOllM listen In llM-cVIli<' W ll<» .'lli;il\/<'"l tlie re.'illires <»I' tlie tioiire nf ;i|l ii|e;i| \\o|ii;ni. I C'Ul look at y<»IJ witli tlie j'aj)t iires of Sliasta. aii«l \\'a>liiiila!i(', aiiilt I \i<*l< jiikI lii'jli I'lLilit-^ arc j'o?-ests, or ioi'k><, or lila'-icr- : to me you ai'c jx'crlesN anil iinri\ alleiit were not |)icj)ai"cd for the treat wlilcli presented itself as we dio\(; down to tli<^ wliai'f to find a lari^i^ ocean ship, sph^ndidly illinninat(Ml from stem to stern with (dectric liiihts, awaitinif us. ()'i c<)iirse onr curiosity was excited to \isit all partH l1oatinL( home tliat was to fiirnisli iis with all th<' (Munforts which exactin^r toni'ists (jemand, and natiii-ally we first of all paid our i-espects to tlie saloon. Here we found (n'ery tiling in apple-pici order-clean, neat, spacious, and thorouii'hly comfo tu- l)le; in fa<-t it was tlu^ c<>unterpai't of the saloon and social hall in the best of our tiansatlantic steamers. 'rher(; were three tiei-s of stat<^rooms, all of them ov(M'- lookiuL^ tint watei- and none of IIkmu hciing what are known as inside rooms; a pi'omena(hM'xtendin ft' I'" 4^' / //VM/. /.\".S '/A7/' /^' .//,./ '.A'./. ti IVcsli, >\s (■('!, ;intl rlcdi, ciilircly \'n-*- fioni tin* detrsljiM"' slii|to(|ois llial make some voyages si<*l\<'iiiiiLi; ; and tin* rliina liIoss of licr new while paiiil as it niiiroied ihe niinilM'rh'^^ iii<-aiio iiid";i\ <»i';il)l\ with niy s)»;icioiis dr;iwiniz-i'<'"ni in l.hc Pullinaii ear : Idit what wa> my >iir|»rise when I was j»olitcl\' told l)V tin' jMirser that as soon ;i- the ^hip reached I'ort 'rowiiseiid and took on the |;i>-t l);ite of the a t I 4« t» ^■* i ■ Ol'k' CAPrMN. A1 Of cuiirsjt viil wh<'ri he did c(>me lo meals it was my j^ood forliine losil near him and lo oiit tin; ti'ip, thoiiLih he had been makiiiL!' it for tlie hesl, ])ai-t of his life, anecaus(t lie is courte<)Us lo his passe n ^fi' rs ; hriiscpHMiess is not essential to estahlish a rej>utation for discipline, any more than had tempei- should Lfo hand in liaml with courage. I ha\'e known milii"ir "laii ('ross- ing tin' Banks of Newfoiindlaml who inno('(Mitly in- r 1 I i'^ r. ?! h I I 48 / /fVy.JM.VV TNir 'lO A LA. t for .'III answer, " How tlo 1 kn(»\\. I don'i ///v licrc." may ,s<'rv(f lo lcssl<* of sc^jhIo^ts, IxiI it also serves to hrijitr out in -tioiiif <'on- trast those ojlieers who lia\e th<; tad. if not ih«' n.itiiral ii!<"liiiat ion. to tolerate the ciiriosity of tlioM- nf us who arc rcallv an*! sineerelv in s<'arch of know 1«m )•/(•. When <'aj»tain ('arroll (lone tu produce a laiiirh ami not t«t hnniiliatc. l""or Iii"«)aiicc^ N'cry t hou'jht fully, t hcsc shij»s arc j)r<<\i«?conie disal>le(l, in w hicli case the )li^•lrest assistaiK'i; jui^fht. 1x5 t w'o oj- three hundred tniles distant. The |»as- seiiiz"(*rs, hovvcNcr, 'jot the id«'athat this was a j»h*as- iir(td)oat to \){\ us(m| foi' Jittl(; (^\(:ursio|| pait ie.> in AlaHkan waters, and oik? of the laeiise, asked him what he was S/oiiiL'' to do with tlie steam launcli when we hodak\l ly AmUor, t t t i\i \\ f v\ i;4 .VAJ ///./:. 49 ^of lo Al.i«^k.'i f " (ii\ (' Ikt a i-nnl <»!' paint " w as t he (|iiick r(fsj)oiis<', aii ii)> ami (|i'«*ssc(|, ji;i(l taken a nil* nf hot colVcc ainl <'atcii a l>i^ciiii hioiiL'Jit to u\^^ 1»\ mii- room st<'\\af(l, who ;jloi-i<'(| in the sonhrnin' I of "M<'(iiiily" (so called, (loiilitlos, becaiiHi; he was VIM'S' small and his haif was vei'\ led), and was asliofe .'IS solaid< w.-ts rc^'idy for us. IIerent uj»on some err,'ine^'t^;irs e\er\- }>odv efor(^, .'is 1 remenil>ered it, it w.'is .a town of some ])rei(Mision ,'is to si/e, hut none w hatever .as to architec- ture. Now, the tr.'ick of tlui i^reat contlagr.'itioii th.'it in an lioui" liad mowed down e\<*ry business block in th(; ])l<'ice w.'is r<'cole onl\' l)\' tlie substitution of inassi\<^ stone .and brick buildiiiirs of the most modern type; the streets were newly .'ind well p,a\ed ; (electric and c;ibl(f r;iilw.*iys wc^'e jinLrlin}^ their bells in .'dl dire<'tions ; the wh.'irves ;in 50 // II'OJ/.I.VW I Rir h ' .1 /.. IS A\L Cl'OW'ds (»r W olkliK'N ;tll\' hcin-j' j«»ll\ iiii.. liillrli : ImiI ;iII I (•<)i||d do ill ill,. Jiiiic tiiiK.' .hHuIUmI iik; whs to look wil.'i wonder ij))(»m r-' tLiiJM'iiJ. **• -4-... » W ^'1 WK^^Sm V;';I'': i^ih''SH SKAIILK. \v1im1, lins IxM'il ,'l<-coiiij>lis||('d .siijcc the lii-c, ;il. 1 jo di'o|> into one <{' I he slio|»^, wlicrf ;i, woiiinii c'lii 'jcii- (M"dl\' Lt'i't ;i r.iir iil(';i of I lie i 11 li;i I )il Mills "f :i lowii l»v u i^'k'UKM' ;it llic cli.'ii'.'iclt'f ;iiid slylr of I lie lliiii'_fs ofl'crcil for sal*'. If lliis 's a rcasoiiaMy rdialdc (est, and I lliink It is, I li;i\c roniH'd a vciy CaN'oraldc ojtiiiioii llt polMJei- (.' . 1 h(! '|"|<'>^I i<»ii of (lemaiid, .-iikI am answered that it; exists already, ami if it did not, the '.growth of this re-^ioii is s(. jdieiioiiiciial that the supply of aii\ ihiii^' and (wei'y tliiiiL!;' does not k<'ep pace with \\u^ demand. It is vi'v- lainly the parad se <»!' hiiildeis, mecdiaiiics, and la,l>orei's at present. .Not the least interest inn; sio-ht, here was a 'j;roiip of canoes, or "diin'oiiis,'" occiipierl |)\' Indians as ro\ iiiLi' haUitalions. It wa-i curious and instructive (o see the \\()ii(|eiful economy <»!' Space pi'act ised l»y these people; a wli(»le family, includiii'j cats and do^'s, l)ein<'" housed ill ;t sin-jhi lioal. In one (»f them I saw t.wo cats and a do'j, who had rily done si nilar scr\ ice juj- the (»th<'rs al, I he e\('iiiii'j; repast; while thus entertained I noticed a inoNcmeiit ;i'i\ iiiLi; (wideiicc <»f life hciieath one of t h<* Muiikets, and presently a meinhei' yiiiL»; the afoi'csai*! panla- loons, and efoi*e, the old man wlio had acte(l as \alet in diMt in'j" the weariiiLT a|)j)ai'el to the sle<*|M'rs, an old ci'<»ne in a scarlet and j)ea-Lfrelow of the whistle; an inter\al of fifteen minutes and then aiiotlier slioil Mow : u shout from t lie (captain instruct inte(l toting use we were makinif ay, where it raine1('sh(m| witli two \vli()l(; weeks of \\ li.'ii I cal] seeiK'iy weal liei'. It is often foii'LCN', rije('t reiiiaiiis o])sciire(I until th<' 11 res are <|ueiicheliiid ainl doomed to listen to descriptions of what is ii<»iiiLi' on around you, it must he the Lfreatest torture to know that you ar<' in the pr(^sence of I Ik- most Ix-aiitifiil works of the cr(*ation, liiddeii fr<»ni you hy a fo;.!', and that \oii are HpeedinLC ]»ast tlieni |)<*rhaps forexcr, iiexcr to re- tiii'ii. I ihe!'ef(»re lio|»e the;il'ts of the WOI'M. Il is full of Ix'.'iiit il'iii isl.'iiids, ^oiiic ^^\ llicm rising' so |)r«'cij)iloiisly lV<^iii the sea, llinl iIh-ic is no fool- liold on llx'in for iii.-in ; others sloping' ly spui's of tlit^ Olympic Mountains i>ai'tiallv sul)ni('iv<'d l)\ the oc«';')i, and that if hy some (ronvidsion of natui'** llie water rerede*!, i he stcs'iniei* would iiiid itself st rande(l at the hasc of a de<'p canyon and siii'rounded on all sides l)\ a raiiL!*' "f niounlrdiis. What most, impresses vou is llie\ast amount of tlmlu'r on all si(h's t rec's of enoi'm<»us liei'jiit and tlii(d:Mi lic'i f < )l \ in | ii;i, \\ lio s;i \ > : "'I'./ls |)|;ic(* is ijiow in:^' so r;i|»it, towns .Mnij f;iil\\ nv s, cliiifclics ;ind schools, mills .'uid r;ict<»rics, sli()j)S <*ind homes, luoc l;dein'j' not nnlike the Hudson, ! n.-it iiially thoiiiihl of home, not with rc-jret, tli.it I w.'is n«»t t hei-(' .•iLi.'Hii, hilt r.dlier with )»ity I'oi' tliosii who could .'nid who did not ccnnc out to lo(»l< ;it this wondcifiil .'ind cliMfinini:' c(»iintr\. lilSllDl' Vl AlllMr K I M ) m s^> I ii'n.i/.i.v'.s I Kir 7(> .]/..ish'.i. At I'ol! Tow IiscimI W c >h»|i|i( <| cttlc lii^ Itii-iiicss witli tll(^ Cllslolll lloll-^c, till- hcill'J- tin- Jx-ll of ClltlN (wllMt- i'Xi'V thai may iiicaiij for I'li^ict Soiiinl, aixl to lake oil tlic )»uss(;iii' Topr/.ii t<» join lis. AikI I aiii ri'jlit Lila"! t li('\' caiiH', for t licir soci«'l \ was >o chJon al»I«'> and tlic iiarrat i\ ('- of llicir n'ccnt tiijts sonic of tlK-ni «'\l('ii tin* cilN of Mexico -o cntci'laiiiiiiLf, t.liat I am almost t(im[)tc(l to >cl tlicif names down in |»riiil,c\cn at t lie risk of l)eiii'_^ personal. i w ill simjtly mention, how ever, 1 liat anioii'j' 1 licni w ere l>isli<»j) \ ladi- mir, Arcliimandrite Innocent, aiis t lie Slniits (»l* I'^iK-.M, with llic liori/oii of 1 lie I\*icilic Ocean <>]\ <>ui' h'I't iW^ and innuincraMc ])iclur(ts(|U<^ islands <»ii ■///f, <»iii" li'jlil, \\(; rcaclH'd N'ictoria in P)!'itisli ("olnnihia, sitiiatti at tli(^ <'xti'<'ni(' soiitli- cin end of \'an(M)ii\('r's Island. When we were notin<^d that we would rc^niain hci'e se\ei-al lioni's, tliepi* was an itninedi- ate iiish foi- the lown, which was sonic ihiee niiles distant, our ship hasini;' stoj»j)e'ly ])a(M', and in a very few minutes set us (1 f « ■ I n f ,'( 5« ./ l/Vy|/,/.\"S /A'//' III ALASKA. f li<- r7/W'<.r 1 ill' l>ri;ii-lciil;iti<)ii> I'Mikill'j' |»l;ir<'. \ ct II lii;i\ Im- |«-c<)'j iii/f(| I » \ ;i \ cfV ;i ) •] »<•- ll/illt.'" «II~|'l;i\ III it- W ilnloW > nf I lie 'jridtl lll'lll'js ill SC.'l-'Oli will) wliicli II (•;(|| -l||»|il\ \<>ll. Oil I lli-^ occ.'isioll tlx'i'*' \\<'i<' -liriiii|i- oil >li(»\\ Ix'.-iiii ifiil, l»i"i;jlil jiiiik -liriiiip-. A- I \\;i- ||()]»> were llC'irU ;ill clo-c(l (III r.'icl, I \\;i> lo|(| lli('\- open k'llc ,'iii'l c|<»-(' early), so \\(; st;ii'te(| ri'jjit of]' 111 (|(» the ti>\\ii aiMJ \\< -iilxiil)-. Oil, liow -iiiootli llie roa'U were, and liow nicely Irim- iiietoi'e for yoii il" \(»ii e\ci- \ i^it N'ictoria in Jnnr. liow can I d''-;cril>e it ! Its l»lo--oiii- are eit her white ())• old -ro^e color, hut the flow eiiii'j' is so liixiifiaiit and compact, in fact so colilph'tel \- {•n\{'V< i'\i'V\ t W i'J oj' the t fee, thai the\' re-einhje a, iiia-s of white (.r pink carnations made into one Ini'je l)(tiiipiet as lar-je a< a. chen'\-t ree. 'I he air was full of lloral pei'fnine wherever we went, and tiic e\<' alii(o-t tire(l (if tlic 'gardens «»f I'oses, lahiii'niliii, vii'Liiii;!, and the iiio-«l m'(>|'J'''<»iis l)lood-r<'d peonies I ha\'<' (wcr >eeii. All thi> seemed to heloiiLi' to Victoria as a matter of cmii-^e. There \* s no clVoi't at ciilti\a- a X I -» ii ill 1 i ■1 .V ^' 1 ir ';J///.\".V 'IK 1 1' 70 .\/..\Sk'A, I tioii, ii in f*!' Jii^^lits and \t\\\ tliciii in llic niir-ci'v, even to sustain a (!onsiiin))t i\ (• «',\ist«'nc(' of a ft-w Ix-id' liall do so no inor*'. ilcic \\a- a tlicrnc of land -and \vat«^i'- scajM', incrcdJMc on (•;in\as, hcaiit ifnl loh, so hcauti- ful ! " Ix'voiid the icoro(| u'-t ion of jn-n or I)Imi<1i,oi' (-ncii caiiicra. Natiir*' lias hccn iillian1 li'ardcns to look at somk; of tin; fiiKi i'<'si(|«'nr>'o ])ai-k, and past th(^ l^arracks, we next s liis horses werct tiretic l»f)l<|i. 'I'll"' l»»'Iirli \\;i- j»Mlll\ occll j »i«'< | hy two L*"''!!! Iciiicii, will* \\^'\■^' >«> al <>< dl >(•( I l>y tlir sccih' }M*f«>i's«'rN<'<| our ••miiini', or iIh'V WfiiiM lia\<' iiia'h' room U>v ii^ : -o \n«' I'c- main in <>iir carciuL!*! aiini<* a few of lliox' <'\(jiiisit<'l V coloird 'jai*lan«U and dotted with hoats and >ails anil >teame)s meanderitii^ and taekiii'j' their way liei-e and there throuiih the intricate chaiineU : heyond thee hy the royal and stately iii*, an now iieai-inir eiLdit o'clock, which in this latitude and at this s<'a>(»n isthy a j-ay of yellow fi'om tln^ lioj-izon suddenly clianiziiiLC to a pale Lrr<^en, wdiile tliH snowy summit lines of the Olympic* range were; tip[>ed with opal, and ilnali\', as the outline of the mountains gi'ew faint, a singhi streak of li<|uid fire \i \\ i) i' .i'l Mi H y I II 1 i u I 1 ■ L ) if l! »'»^ I W. -.■-■• -t 62 ./ Jrc.ir.l.V'S TRIP TO ALASKA. iii.'ii'lsiiii:' (Im' liiir wlwr*' tlicocraii scmmikmI Io mcll .m\\;i\. It w.'isM \ ciitaM*' sctMU' '»r fiiclijiiitiiiciit, and we Irl'l it willi siicli icliictancc that iii' s(nds I'aiM'd Iwickwai'ds and lin^ci'cd witli It until oni' cai'iianc liad tnrncd ahnijttly t«»\vards t<>\\n and it was lost to \ icw. ( )ii ()nr w ay l>ack your ratiici* coidd not resist tile dcsiiT Io alin'iit and ask (lie nain«'s of the '^TmL many plants and hlos- soms whic'li dccoiatcd tlic pi'ctty lionu's we passed ; and this lie did of a I tarty of yoniiLi' peo- [tle indulu'IiiLi' In lawn tennis, wlio not only U'ave him the Informa- tion with Itriju'lit Iiitel- liiLi'enee and welcome phrases, but insiste(l u|>on loading" him with l>oth arms so fidl of e.\(piisite llowcrs that ^\■hen he returned to us we hardly eould find room foi' tluMii In (»ui- carriage. I shall not soon for<>'et the livntle and sua\'e courtesy witii ^vllich our simple re([iiest for infoi'matloii was res[)()nded to l»y the gentlewomen and youths, Avliose merry-making we broke in U|)on, and I ^^as glad after- ward to learn the nanu^ of the Lead of the Inmseliold, whose surroundings and j'etinements wevo in accor3 tilt'}' slioiild li.'i|>|H'ii to rciiH'iiilu'i' the ^^Mllk('^' inva- sion r I'cf'ci' to, I lio|»(i they will lK*Ii('\<^ tliat my little group was tlioi'ouglily iiii|>i*t'sstMl hy tlicii" Uiiidiicss ill tills ('|>isii wrote " tlie iiiouiitaiiis look on Marathon, and Marathon looks on the sc.'i,'' I donht \ cry iniich while "musing tlici-t! awliilc," you would Iimnc tolcr.'itcd .'Ui inxit.'ition to a dinner cNcn nt the "Poodle Dog"; \ el let iiu; Mssure you that if you had sent a regret you would have made tlie niistakt^ of your life. Th(^ " Poodle Dog'' is presided oxer l)y M. Marlxeiif, who is a cook of excellent merit, as I can testify, heinir (juite a coi'don-hhii myself. AV(^ were shown to a little a[)artmcnt in reai' of the store, which seemed dexoted pi'inci[)ally to the ice-ci'eam eaters, and found a table with covers for three, pi'ettily decorated with radishes, olives, and sh]'im])s, and a few bright roses, I need not confess to you my daughter that much as T delight in ex(piisite scenery and admire w'orks of art, I take a great deal of [)leasure in gratifying my taste for good livino;: a di'ive in the Bois is none the less enioval)le because you know that a lunch is ready for you at the Cascades; the dee[) blue of Mui'illo in the gallery of the Louvre is })erhaps app)reciated with more enthusi- asm if you expect ])y and by to season your fatigue with a dinner at the Cafe Anglais, or Vibert's, or the t. ;' ( 'I 1 J' 233j^aj warn 64 J irOAM.V'S I'Rir 70 ALASKA. ■I ' ) ilit. ! 1^: J{^ li Iliclic ; and IIh^ lahoi >!' the ascciil, ol' some Aljdiic pass is ('oiiijKMisatcd foi' not exclusively hy the gor- geous sui"i'oinierfornie(| some i\('vi\ of luai'tyidom. I liave, thei'e- fore, niiiih^ it a rule of my ti"a\<'ls that my palat(^ and my gasti-onomy shoidd he well eai-ecl foi-. If pos- sihle, in ordei- that I may k<'ep on sueli go<»d teiins with mys(df as to reeei\-e tlie vai'Ious impressions of iMV journey in an amiahk; and eont(Mite(l mood. So ..lueli foi' tlie philosopliy of my dinnei' at the " l*oodl(^ I^^'g'/' 'i"*l "<'^v fo!' the realistic j)art of it. '\\w inaUre (rjinhl sei'vs ; following thes(; cauie Oiympia, oysters, in the sh(dl, not one of winch was largei' than a nick<'l, w iili only just a deli(;at(^ sugges- tion of tlie copper}' flavor which, to my uncultivated taste, spoils the English "nati\-e''; and now, whih^ we weu^ ])usv AV'<"li a ])roil(Ml spriuLC <-liicken, — and siK-h a chickiui, so w hite an()/)/./■: /xx,. ^>5 ])r()m|il response <»r one of lis ; "jiikI hiiiii.'; ;i iHiUlrof (his ( "lijit(s-m M;irL;;iii.\ 1S(>1," snid .'iii<»t lici', liniidiiii;" (lie wine li>l l<» tlie \\;iil('i'; ;iii(l wliilc the | diC'isMliI is ImThil;' tniss/Wr ^A yv-.s/.s7- (iiir( w.'is re.'idy, )»iil il w ,'is well wortli wnitiiiu; lor; il seemed lo Ilie llinl I lie lllllilliely demise of I li;il \oillll- fiil l)ird \\;is riilly nloiied for !t\ llie mniiiiei' of liis preseiil.-il ion in IJie form of food, ;is lie ap])e;ii-ed im- pale(l lliroiii;li I lie hreasi \)\ a sil\-er skewer, siir- moiiiiled 1>\ llie lion and llie iii!ic«)rii eiilwiiied willi a. cordon of allernale imislirooms and Inillles; and willi liim came a letliice salad with a soiitwon of onion and ( xfiun/oii, \'\i "to s<'l hel'ore a kiiiLi' '' ; llic s! raw l»erries wldcli followed had jiisl lieeii picked from M. Mar- li'i'llf's i^'ai'dell, I he cherries I lia\e lleNcr se<'n <'.\celle(|, excel >l iiiu' ill (iermaiiN, and llie coU'ee was nialil}' e\orl»it.'Uit Inil exlorlioli- atc. I would thiM-efore, jMhise tliat ;i full nnderslaiid- iii^' he hud wilh the proprietor in ad\ance, lest, you llnd y(Hirseir (diai'^f'-'d foiii' dolL'ii's for ;i hoi tie (»f clui'et marke(l tliree on I he list, and .'ihoiit fbe (eiits apiece for shi'imns, of which \-oii will lU'ohahlv <'at two dozen A Hit. 1 ,111 % • A- I»V"" if I' W -I I' If n M 'f 66 J //V).J/J.\".S- /'A7/' TO J /.A SKA. if you .'ii'c I'oiul of tliein. However, ^ve did not po'iiiit llie ])ill to dlsturl) our ('(|U{unniity. The iiiooii ])eiiig at lier full, ;ind sevei'al of our s]ii])niates hcinij: in ^1'^^ j^auic ('<)udition (\ refer to tlie eatables ouly), we resolved to u^et l)aek to the i-teanier on foot, and thus perhaps avoid the iiiu'litiuarial attack which M'e liad been invitiui;'. It was a jolly tramp, along a level board walk of three good miles. The yonng men sang, as did some of the old ones too, ^vhile the women laughed as they listened to the misfoi'tunes, set to music, of an Trisli gentleman who had a mania for tuml)ling into hoi-i'id j daces, "dressed in his best suit of clothes."' AVhen we reached our bright, ])eautiful sliip, she lay like a luminous ])alace beckoning ns on -> sweet (b'eams and the dolce far idente of her life. ^ \\ \ h' C^ITAPTKR VI. A^'LKrirr ^^•as tintiiiu; tin* land- scajK* when we resumed oui voyage, and, as I had resolved at tlie start that I woidd oidy sleep wlieii I eoidd Hot see, 1 was iij) and waikiiio- tlie deek iK'foi'e six o\doek, tided ^\•itll a sense of pity anni St. Louis — great travellers, and l)oth fond of it; Mr. nnd ]\[rs Meinertzhagen, from London, who have spent tlie iirst two years of their married life travelling around the globe, and tell ns they have yet one more year to devote to it, ^^'ho are now (h)ing Alaska for the second time ; Mi'. Duhring, of Phih.vlel- phia ; ])W 'p Aladimir and his associates, speaking ^ I mi ^ ^ s5 iPgSg|HiappiiMi.i^i4ii,i Vancoc]-/:k. 69 Russijin ; Miss I)., also a o'reat tourist and always wide- awake when any tiling of interest is to he seen ; Mr. John Bernhardt, a German gentleman in charge of a gold mine in Ahiska, wlio wishes lie wasn't; and three (►r four ()ther.i wliose names I do not know. The yoimo* men who \vere playing whist until midnight of course would )>e in no condition to resume the li'anie after lunch if they lost their rest, so they are not with us, nor are those w ho take two hours at their toilets ; but those of us who tiavel with our eyes and ears wide open are here, and ^ve have no regi'ets. This is the (iulf of Georgia, the land on the left is the Island of A'ancouver, that on the east is British Columbia, and both shores I'emain distinctly visible for two hundred and fifty miles of our journey, though the Gulf of Geoi'gia narrows into Johnstone Straits after we have sailed half that distance. It may be interesting to mention, though it is no part of my intention to write either history, geography, or ethnology, that \"an- couver gets its name from an officer of the slii[) of the great navigator Captain C-ook, avIu) took peaceable possession of the island in the name of the English government just one hundred years ago, and rendered inestimable service to mariners in surveying an!(' saAe tile foamy ^Il^l■()^\" of our |>l()ULi'liiii •• tliroui^li it at the Tate of lifteeii miles an lioiir, and llie l<»uu' line of au'itatioii AN'itli wliieli our ])i-oj)cl- It'i' marks oni' \\'ake. Stand ini;' at tlie l)o\v (AWui-\/h.n,^/.,r.) f,,,..^ ^^iijii-terof an liour Ave penetrate, either wirli tlie naked eye or our ^lasses, a \ ista of* su])ei'l> tran(|uillity ; passing to tlie starhoai'd side we tind oui'selves r- -.,..,_ _. oA'er-loolvimj; a placid l)ay encircled by f()i'este_y Aii//ior.) i BBE «i>V Tl.on us like one vast fi'ame, leaving no trace of the course we have taken since we left Victoi'ia. It is a shame to Ixi dis- turl)e(l at sufdi a moment and in the midst of such an ever-chaniiinL!: pano- rama l)V the sound of tie breakfast bell, but ■ le lueals on the good ship Queen arc always so excellent, so hot, and of such \ai'iety that I nuist go (h »^vn. T some! imcs wished thev were (luite bad, that 1 mii*i<>us trip, they are al)ove criticism. Moreover, this morning I had the pleasui'e of meeting, at break- fast, ]\lrs. (1., the wife of the jNIayor of Victoiia, who had joined us for th<' cruise at that city. W'e had be-en ( Koddk'd l>y Autlior.') \ I! i I Il 14'] ' f ., 1' f p-ii 72 A U'dU.l.V'S I'Rir />> ALASKA. m^: iiilnniUMi tlint our lirst ,st()[)[)iiig-phu'e jifter leaving \'ict<>ria, would he NanalMio, ]>ut at hreakfast we were told l)y tlic (•.•i[)taln that that would be I'eserved for our retuiii, .'«s he would have to sto[) there twelve hours foi- coal, so ^ve pushetl 011 through these wonderful islands, twistiuii' and turninLji: as the necessities of naviyation i*('(|uired, I su[)[)()se, each change of our course opening U[) some new scene of enchantment and the next one closin<'' ir to view, leavinjj; nothinir behind l>ut the hope that another turn Avould bring it back, and then (juite suddenly ex|)eriencini'- a realization of our wish. Mak- ing mysell' comfortable on the \ery u[)[)erm()st deck, clad in an ordinary cloth walking-dress, ^vith a little astrakhan jacket over my .shoulders, I just sat and revelled in this monotony of constant change, and let my fancy ^vander through a score of delicious tlights of imagery. Looming up be- hind these inunense woods, whii-h, I am tol<1, are them- selves growing on hill-sides one thousand feet above the water, 1 see miles and miles of mountain and table-land covered with snow, the depth of which can bea})[/re- {Kodak\i by Author.) ^i'^^^'-^ ^^i^^i ^he naked eye; i»ji BJMI Li. \Q i IS/ T/i SC/iXJiR J '. 73 T- thei'e tlu'v stand like the palace alMxlcs of some li'iant I'ace with tlicir facades of purest iiiarhle, their tunvt.s, their w iiidows, and tlieir towers ; my imayiiiatioii takcH me to Gi'eeee, and I stand ])el<>w tlie steps of the Aci'0[)olis; I am <>nee moi'e in Home, enti'anccMl by the silent inaL;iiiH('enee of the Coliseum, and as \ve pass ai'onnd the [)()int of anotlier island and I get a glim[)se of wliat looks to me like an avalanche of snow cui'ving over a shelvinii' rock into the abvss below, [ think of home and our own Niagara. \ am told that excitinfZ" scenes [)i'oduce different effects u])on our natures acconlinji; to the character of what is n-anspiring ; for instance, that soldiers never speak to ea(di other during battle, the only \(>ice heard being that of con)mand ; I myself in a })anic at sea have seen a whole crowd [)ai'alyze(l into s[)eechlessness ; at a I'aili'oad accident or a fire where loss of life is threat- ened, thev say men i"un aindesslv about shoutinii: to each other, but none of them doing nuich that is use- ful ; and 1 observed on my Alaska excursion a nervous im[)ulse [)roduced by the excitement of the voyage which took the form of running ai'ound the ship an.d callinii" \'our fellow-i)assen(»:er'*s attention to somethinui: that could only be seen at some particular spot. "There's a whale," says somebody, as a s[)out of water is suddenly thrown ten feet in the air and is re})eated at regular intervals ; and instantly the little crowd 'i(l you sec the wlmlc ^ " And thus you are kt'|»t iiit'oiincd (if water- falls, seals, porpoises, saluion, eagles, and Indian canoes, till tlie y witli notliing sjHH'ially to mark it, hut \\itli the mind satu- rated witli the wondei'sof nature just as it is with those of art after a ., tln^ (iermaii gentleman, who has left at home a jewel of a wife and a cluster of little ones wliose pictures he has sliowu me, and has spent a winter in Alaska (it makes me shiver to heju' (►f it), that to-morrow will he a much more interesting day. June 4th. — (\an it l^e ])ossil)le that it has l)een only two (lays since I left Tacoma? and I liaxtMlone S<'attle, Port Townsend, Puget kSound, Victoria, the Gulf of Georij^ia, and all those beautiful thiui's which, foi' \'our sake, I wish with all my lieart T could desci'ihe, hut which \'ou must see for yourself to I'ealize how pooi'h' tlie vei*\' choicest lanii:uaii'e would paint them. This is another lovelv da\', which 1 confess is a complete surprise and a most agreeahle one, for we had been cantioned against making the tri[) so early, as we would undoubtedh' strike what the sailors call "dirtN' weathei'.'' But no, there is not a s[)eck of cloud, not a puff of wind, just the same balmy atmosphei'e as that of yes- terday, and nothing to indicate that there ever is any weather in this reij^ion save the streaks of cobwebby mist that here and there lace themselves in among the trees or around the rocks for a few minutes and then dissolving into moisture nnder the warm sun, disappear ; r 5 r r APPRO. I C 'If IXC . I LA SKA. / :> and ^^'<' \\<>ulu not be witlioiit tliesr l'<»i- the world, for they are ex(|uisitel}' [)ictiires([iie, as delu-atc aiid epluMii- eral as i\w. smoke of a ci^ar, and so sliv that at tlic l)h)\vinii!: of tlie wliistU^ tlit'\' seem to weep themselves to dcatli. We liave })asse(l thi'ouii;h Jolinstone Straits in the (hirkness, \\liicli I mucli regret, for \ am tohl the eliannel is very narrow and tlie sides very liigli and j)reei[)i- tons, l)nt it is some comfort to leai'ii that tliere is litth^ or no difference between tliat and the scenery \ve are now passing thronixh; vet, wliv cannot it l)(i so arranged that tlie slii[) shonld anchor at ])edtime and stai't again at sunrise^ It is to(» ]>a(l that the least bit of it slionld l)e missed, and \\'e only ho[)e tliat the ca[)tain will so time onr movements that \V(? niay see it comini>: l)ack. Tlie featnre of to-da\'s expei'ience is tlie Avonderfnl transparency of the water ; as we [)eer over tlie bow of the slii[) it seems as tliongli we could see down into the ocean fatlioms deep; in fact it is not like water at all, tliere is notliing I can compare it to ])ut the clearest plate glass of immense thickness and unsullied pui'ity. I [ ■• 41' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 // S^. (Pr 1.0 I.I 1.25 12.5 2.2 2.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 VQ y] /. 0^5 '^ ,>^ '■^ d? / /^ # \ 9> ■t^ .» ^•^'' r-i? w \ ti ' m i^. I (:IIAI»M'KIJ \'II. HI*] foilllll (l;iy (Mil IVolll 'r.-|<'<.||i;i (June r>lli) we Iniiiid oiii'scKcs, w Ih'ii wc cm lie I I'olll (III I' st.'llc-l'ooiiis 1\ illL;' at (lie wli.'irf a( V\ty{ WcniiLrcIl, 1 lie I'liilcd ::^Z>>, Stales wai" \«'ss('l, /*h//(f, bciiii;- ncin Ileal- us, and tliesniall Ixiats of IxmIi ships plyiiiLi to and froexcdiaiiiiiiiL;' ( ' xilifies. Tins place l;('1s its name fro ' 111 Ilk ''--■ix^^^ir^- — ' snips piyiiiLi;!() aii(M!'Iiernieii who had settled A_, ' licre i^'i'cw' numerous enough, alxMil- (lie ><'ai' I.S.">4, to di^'iiify their local liahi- tation w illi a name ; sul)se(pient l\ it l:'!'<'W ' ... U|» into .'i place of coii- sidei'ahle conse(|iieiice and |>opulaiion l»\' i-ea- soii of I he ss(*ss it, still. Moi*' iccciitly it, lias Im'cii a I'liitccl States iiiilitafv |»<>st, l>iit e\<'ii the i;'lain()iii' of tlie few l>a}<)liets li;is (le|)arte(i, aiis. Tlic nioniiiiL;' w.is cloudy niid cliill}, with (K'casioii.'il sliowcrs, v<'ry iiiiicli ill k('('])iiiu;- witli llic few dreary .sti'ecls and al>aiid()n<' tins old wcsUth foilrcss of IIk' C/ai'. Tilt' fort itself or siockadt^ was an utter wreck ; in fact I would not have; know n of its ex- *Mi'l);ii'i<»t('cl i(»ii ccrlaiii I'lilcs . '111(1 Imw's <»r !l;'<>\ <'riini('iil. Tlic lolcin pole of lli«' Aliisknii IiidiiMi is liis ci'csj,, liis faiiiily name. lie is ji "heal'," or an ^' ra^'ic/' or a "salmon," or a "crow /'or .'I " wliahi/' and Ix'iii!^ so lie owes ccrlain diilics to liis kin, tli<^ cliicf of wliicli is lliat. Ik; may .not, niari'y ji iiKMiihcr of* il ; and aiiolli<'r, lliat any ci'inM' lie coinmils iittaclics a. i'<'sj)onsil)iIil y lo liis cntii-i^ ci.'iss, ('\<'n as an injiii y lo liim is an injury lo Ids w liohi stock. In \\u', one, casci all may cxpccl (<> siHTci', in tln^ otli(!i' all must, ltd i'('ad\' lo aAi'iijic Ant(Mn-j»ol(M'Ust()m h-ads 1,o cxl ravai^aiil, o()r Imilatioii of his li'od-fal her and ('.'irvcd on all sides wiili riid(M-llii»ies of his ancestors, jih it is willi ns (oli\('in a palace; and I wondered as I looked at some of tlies(i horrid sciilptiirinij;s \\]ielli<'r lh<'y did not he- ^et i\\v, saiiK^ nei<'hl)orlv jealoiisv and xiili^ai' i'I\ali'v W'hicli possess those wlio esteem tliemselves iiioic ci\ il- i/e(|. ^Vhi', peopl(> must (h^'ole a /./';, Si w liicli Ih' Hpprox (*s, Miiioiig lliciii Ix'iiii;' (wcliniiL^iiiL'; .'iiiy tliiii'j: Ik' li.'is for iiKUK'v^; and .'Uiollicr, (liiiikiiiir as miicli w hiskry as lio can !>;('< ; and aHIioUL^li there is ti<» case (»ii iccord, jxM'luips, of one of (licsc pcoplf! sellini^ his family li'cc, y(U, lie makes minialiire i('|ii'eseniations of it all winter and sells llicni lo llie lonrists in tJK^ sujninei". ()\\v of tli(is(i I liaAc, which was ])iirc,liased undri' pccnliai' eii'ciimstaiiees at .hineaii and will ])e io!d of liei-eafter, and 1 j)i'oeiii'e(l at \\'iani:;(dl a \i\vy <^^ot(^s(pl(»ut a \aid w id(^ in flu! Iloor, uj»on wliich wci'e the lires foi- warmt h and foi* c(H)kiniLi', the old) esca[M' for the smok(^ l)eiiiL( throUL^h the roof, where an aper- ture was left for that purpose. 'I\\<) or three families were scjiiatted in a. eir!!" wearing' ajiparel of the white mari, and tlie women tiglitly wraj)ped in (AW,//v/m.i//m lA /'. /?-vW/.) skirt and ]»la!doarsition of one of our party, I had a grand o[)[)ortunity to see one nt^xt day at Sitka, and shall giveyouafidl account of my experience when 1 come to it. There are some remarkable typical Indian graves in the vicinity of W'^i'angell, wdiich are well worth visitini;-; had the weather been brighter I should have made an eifoi't to see them, and F certainly should liave gone anyhow if there bad been any mode of conveyance, but there was al)solutel>' none. The totem pole, however, is the chief featui'e of them, serving the pur[)ose of head- stone and inscri])tion. Longfellow, nou will remembei', has it thus : " Aiiil tliey j)aiiUe( an old stcaiiilxuil, lii^li mimI dry in tli<^ nuiiii street, \\liose d(Md\s nic l)«>ard('(l and loofV'd iii and divid<'d oil' into apailiiieiits foi- use us ji liotel, and aldiouu'li tli(U<^ was little vestige of Inninm life u]>ont it upon my visit, 1 was told thai duiinijj the miniiiL? boom np tli(; Stiulai" hosteliy. I ^vas glad to get ba(d<. to the (/iiee7h, lier clean decks and the ahlntions which the com- forts of my stiitei'oom aiVoi'deil, and gladdei" still to see th(^ clouds hreak away and give jn'esag(^ of a bright aft ernoon and mori'ow It is the custom of the shi[)s, after leaving Fort AVi'angell, to ])roc('ed m\xt to Juneau, then to (/liilcat, Glacier Hay, and Sitka, but we did not follow^ this coui'se. ('aptain (/ari'oll, Hnding that the night was going t(» \n'. clear and the sea smooth, took a westerly coui'si^ through Sumner Strait (formerly calle(l Duke of CHarence Strait ), ai'ound the south of IJaianoff Island, and thence; noi'th to Sitka, keeping the island on oui" right and tin; broad Pacific Ocean tills strcMiu thut tlu^ ('jissiar j^old mines were (lls('overe(l, w liich pi-oiiiised so imicli f'oi' the |U'os))erltv of Wi'Miiu'ell, and ii;i'eat faitli still exists anioii^' tlie j)eoj)l(^ as to the future niineial wealth of the far hack counti's . 'I'he sun was now Ix^i^innin^' to make himself fell in I'eal eainest, and the atniosphei'e (dianu'eil to that mild, halmy sort wdiicli all wdio liaNc wi'itten ahout Alaska, seem to ai^Tee exists in this vielnit)', hut which 1 had despaii'ed of experieneinn". The cliMids had di-ie(| their tears and or in straii;lit, ti'ans- parent, coh-wehhy lines still liovered amidst the tree tops, just as a hit of foi;' \\\\\ clini:; to tlw masts of a sliip foi- many miles ; in some jdaees it looked so like tlie linu'ei'- inj4" steam IVom a, (piiek- moxinu;' loeomoti\'e tliat I Ix'pin to ask myself how soon the slii'ill w liisth^ and tlie rusliinm' I'acket of tlie steam eiii^ine would I'esound along the hanks of yon- (h'l' river, freighted with tile precious nuggets "'i:^^v^/^ 'iXnfY. L::^_l/i •15.-— — 'IIIK sriiKi;K.N UKl.l'A. !n < IP i i 'i "1 1: \ I r'- i t •% W i ffi \ PI 86 .; U'C'MA.VS IRII' 10 ALASKA. now \y\\t)i lii^ tho ;itirios|)lK'i*n (lid not (•leaf until we were too I'.ir removed IVoiii it. i e. IRk'/l'.l/. .//• Sf/'KA. 87 foot-liills Ik'c.mimc iiku'c iiilciiscly Miic, mikI llic ci'imsoii juid >('ll<)\v <»r llic I'ciiis mikI !j:i";iss('s hi-cw liixm'iniitlv j>l('tiii*('S(|ii('. It was still (lMylii;'lil, but \\\v oiitliiuis wei'e urowiiiL!; I'aiiitci' and tlir ail' cliilly, ho that some of us were ai'i'aii!j;'iii!^' lo sjm'IkI the j'(MMain(l<'i' of tli(^ evening' ill tlh' saloon, wIkmi, t<> onr surprise, we discoverfMl that it was already ten o'clock dx'dtiiiie, in fact — i)iit tlie novelty t»f le tiling ill prociiriiii;' an a!i. I r H f t i 1 ll I f i, 'I t.M 88 J ir().]/.i.\"s iKir ro Alaska. were willing to sii um tlie rest of tlie night if tliey could only get a iiewspa[)ei' even a nioiitli old. Tliei'e was umoiig this remarkable fleet a little steamer which afforded us a Avorld of fun ; it was smaller than any of the row-boats, and had a veritable piece of common stove-pii)e for a smoke-stack, which emitted a pyro- technic column of spai'ks at every puff, veiy much like a Fourth-of-July S([uil). The ])oor man who was cap- tain, engineer, and stoker all combined, was really so ridiculed an«l laughed at from our deck that he faced aliout and disa[)peared in sheer disgust at our bar- barous treatment. One day (mly is aUowed to us at Sitka, and we ar(} told there is a great deal to see, so an end to this midnight dissipation ; we must to bed, that we may be eai'ly e(|uip])ed for to-morrow. i \ i I W- SITKA. {KodaJSd hy Author.) OIIAPTKU MIT. T^? FlUDAV, JiixE (Uli. — Briglit .'uid early mv wew uj) and ready to dis- embark. The ship, at tlie proper condition of tlie tide, iiad moved along to the city in tlie night-time, and we found ourselves, shortly after sunrise, lvin<>: at the wharf, objects of intense and welcome curiositv to the inhabitants. From '^i my [)oint of view, as Sitka first dawned upon me, I was instantly reminded of Naples (though of course in miniature), as I saw a grou]) of houses nestled in the lap of the mountainM on the brink of the ocean, while across the bay jMount Edge- cond)e bore a stroni*' i'esend)lance to Vesnviiis. This thought I found Avas common to all of my fellow- ])assengers who had visited the Meditei'ranean. ]\[ount Edgec) .l/.ASk.l \^ its coiivulsixc ilii'ocs Inline i'C(l-li(»t hoiildcrs mikI jxuir- iiiL;' iMoltini l;i\'.'i iVoiii its lips, I coiiM I'oi-m sonic va^uo idc.'i of \\\v. siipcrl) ilhiiiilii.'iiioii of these liiiii(li'<'(ls of isl.'iiids, tlieii' tints .'uk! Ii^•llls and sliadows, w lien tli(^ fires of tiiis iL^i'and old mountain lit U[) IIk; sci^ne. Pef- lia,j)stliey will ('(,ine aon ;iu eminence which commands ;iii excellent view of the t()^vll and harl>oi', is the IJaranolt Castle, which in my opinion should l)e first visited in order that a cleuriii' idea, niay l»e presently oI»taine(l of the |»lac(^ while you ai'<'. walking" tln'oiinh its str(*ets. In IK* I'espect does it resemhh^ ;i castle; on iIk^coh- tr;uy, its exterioi' is tliat of a \'ei*y liomely country liotel. It is approached hy n staircase, sonicwliat fati^uiuLi^ in its ascent, l)ut returnin<4' a su[)ei']) \iew as a handsome reward foi- the elVort. liesides, you will then he standing' upon historic ii'round, ai'ound which cluster tlie scenes juid incidents of the past century, with wliich \-ou should make yourself familial' if you Lope to uppreciate wh.ut you will see when )ou minglt; with the inhabitants. Like the island upon wliicdi it is locatecl, the castle takes its name from that old mar- )ll t riifieaaiiHiM 9- l W'OMAWS TKir IV ALASKA. tlnet, t]i(^ Riis.sinii (iovc^i'iior IJaiviJioll', w li<>, in tluM-arly |»,-u't of \\w (rentiii'v, fi'oHli Iroiii his f'.'imili.'ii'it)' with the liol'I'ol'S of Si!)('l'i}Ul life, ruled llic people wilji ;i lyraiiiiy that heu^aii with the kiioiit and < ii(h'aiauotf to the spot, who at once e out of jjlace to nuMitioii tlui fact that the s|»iritual Laniard ianshij) lias l)eeii con- tinually supplemented ]>y Russian bayonets and the moral and linaiicial, to say nothing" of tlu^ ])liysical, power of th(^ Shelikolf niono]>oly and the Iludsou Bay Company, who NNcre tli<' lessees of the Uussiaii Gov- ei'iiment and controlled not only tlu^ trader but tlu^ ollicials of th(! Archipela^'o. Ft will be diflicult to work the imaA7r /.'. /A"J.\VV7'' ( .IS /'/,/■:. 93 r;i('( Im'I'c |»iiii('('> .'111(1 j)i'iiK'('ss<'S (»!' lli(! 1>1(M»(1 i(>\ .*il li,'i.\<' c'ltcii tlicii' c'lA i.'iic, (|ii;in'<'(i llicir nfK/hk;ii'aiion' came a, miiid»er of I lie iiohllil y, ejicli in 1 iii'U pi'o- vid<'d with 1 lie rcACiiiie and retinue necessai'y lo a proper iiiaiiitenanc(5 of llie diiiiiity (»f his <»|]ic<', wliicdi appears lo lia\(' (rhielly consisted in luxurious and e\'ti';iv.'ii^;uit enterlainnient ujxiii any pretext that shoidd wafi'ant it, iiotaMy the arrival of a. foi'eii;ii war xcssel, or even ,*i nierchanlnian. I !ia\'e had oppoi'l unity to ol»sej'\'(^ how devoted these Kiissiaii iiohles ai'c to the convixial side of life, lor I liaxc heeii led to the l>aii( jiiet-rooiii 1)\' <»ne of tli<^ iiiost reiiownefl of her jolU' Adinir.'ils, and liaA e sat at taMe near one of her (irand I)uk(s whose niannei* indicated that for liini tlu'i'e was l)ut<>ne lioui' in lif<', and that IIk^ jU'i^senl one ; so that it was not dilliciilt forme to jticture the avidity with which in en the doois of tlie castle hall-room. It was in this very lious(^ that Lady l^'i-aiiklin, twenty years a II i i I ■ii I 04 ./ ir().l/.l.\ S I'Kir l\) ALASKA. trij) ((> s(m; with liis own <'y<'s llir iiniiKMisc tai(l for al (Ik^ rat(^ of two ctMits I KM' aci'c ll n'oiiji' ll til ic jx'i'Hoiial ex ci'tions of my old rriciid, (iciicral K. I*, liaiiks, who was llicii (l.SOT), as li(^ is now, a iiiciiilu'r of CoiiirresK. It ll was li'oin iiicsc \<']'y windows lliat was wirncsscd in the I'all of ISCtT a paiicant of n'lcat sii^nilicancc, to <'i\ ili/atioii, tlionj^li pci'liaps not \\ il.l.l AM II. SI'.U AKIi. as snlciM lid »tl IS otn<'!'S o| liillcl I less (•ons(Mjn(Mi(*('. Ill llic hay on the artcniooii of ( )ctol)('i' tlic! IStli la>' at aiiclioi' llirec AiiK'ricaii war sliij)s: tim led (>s!<}p(<\^\\w lk(S(Uii,\\\\A I lie 'fdtneHtonm, coniniaiK i'('s)M'ctiv(*ly l)y ('a[)taiiis lOniinons, Hradl'fU'd, and McI )oiiL!;all, cacli vessel ( I i-csscd in (lie national eoloi's, while (he Itiissiaii soldieis, eiti/<*ns, and Indians of Sitka, which was then, as it is now, (Ik^ capital of Alaska, had assenil>le(l ii|>on the. open s[>ac(^ at our feet, cari'vinii; aloft the eaii'les of the (-/ar. Ai a s^iveii siLi;nal, tli<^ Ignited States navy lired a national salutes in honoi" of the Russian flair;, which was then lowered from the stalf upon tlu^ castle, ami this salv(> beinu^ responded to hy the Russian t^arrison in < inplinient to ours, *:\w stai's and sti'i[)es were hoisted U\ the p(\'ik amidst the wild liu//as of the assembled peoj>le. '^riius, fi\e hiindi'ed and eiii:ht\ thousand s(|uare miles of the 1 s/vv>'r (U- rili«' iiioiiui' ': nil \\\v ^ iimi'der and wmi* is harharisiii : for if statesnieii hefe ;iiid ;d)l'o.'i(l li.'iA c iio l)ett(M' o<'('U[»a- tioii, for instance, tJiaii faiiniiiL;' a llaiiie of ii'rital)ilit y ('oneerniiiL;' the ownership of tlu^ uiifnrtiinatc^ seal, who is hofli only to l»e elilhhed to (U^'lt,h, let it \)(\ left to the woiiKMi, the i;;!'av(^s (»f whosc^ soldiei* liiisl)ands, bi'others, niid sons, they [HM'iodically deeorat(^ with llowei's, a!iw^ered for tlu; last time; tliose teais did (iteiiial credit to hei* patriotism, and were d()ul>tless a proud SMtisfaction and a coml'oi't to liei-; hut wliat of the tears sjie would have slied it', instead of seeiuij: her 'I in I. \ ' 1^! I fi I I 4y i/, I IIO.l/.I.V'S IKir /V> ALASKA. liiisl);iii(l loiiii.'illv vicM u|> Ilis ;iiilJi()r-il \' 1() ,'i IViciKlly li.'ifioii, lie lind IxM'ii l)ini|M|i(, lionn' 1<> Ikm- (lie dcud vlo iiiii of .•! I)1(km|v sh'il'c^ |() ;ill;i,iii (lie sjiiiKf ohjiM-i. As I looked (»iii (>\('i' (Ills placid ])a.y aci-oss to Ml,. Edi;'(MMUMl)(', and tliciicci I'ai' olT to tlici wcstiMii liori/oii. I,IN( iil.N bXKLlil, bllKA. where iIk' i*aeilie Ocraii dips down lo tlu' coast of I^asteni Asia, (lie ( lioii^lit, caiin; (o me (hat ove?' Ilie!*(^ was (he Kii't liplace, (he cfadle, the yoiilli, and (he iiiaii- liood of cI\ili/a(ioii, and (liaiil iiad joiii'iieye*! and (i'a\- elled w(^st\vai(l and wi^stwai'd, \\(\-i!"ie(l at times almost l)u( s]»riiigini2; up au;ain and sti'iking viu^oi'oiis tod< esnaii' 1 l)h)ws, sometimes in tlio name of i-<'lis<'(l il, i'miiitl its \N M y lo (lie. wcsh'iii li('iiiis|>li('i(',.iiMl in (In- couisc nt' (inn^ ('iu'ii'('l(Ml (Ini j^lolxi; ;in\\ lici'c on t lie conlliics of cai't 11 l<»okin^' tow.-irds iIki lionn; of its crcu! ion. I <-onI(l not but, coiiti'.'ist tin' j<>}'<>iis, licaltli- fiil lioui', wliicli was ours Ikmh; at, tlic cndiiij^, with I lie (lnnL;('on-lif<^ of scrfdfMn o\ri- tlicrif where it all he^aii. " ^^'s, Madame,'' said rFudi^i^ (^alkiiis, when with some enthusiasm I L;;a\e liini tl;e IxMieUt of tliis idea one cNcniiiL;' at Taeoma, "the tail is now w'aLiL!,'iMi;* tluMloji;.'" hesceiidini;' from the liai-anolT ('astle and walkini;' n|> tJH' main street, of the town, whicdi was really eh'an and nieedo. luaJ,.) m fiii r rir 1 I. U, ' '■> h» i 1 ! t ,j,S / iro.i/.i.v's I Kir lo Alaska. all kinds nf kiiick-kiin<*ks. 'IMic luiccs asked \\vxi\ ('\ayal>le with a dime; and a " doll;i/' dollar. Wlietlief tliey l»ase the jU'iee iijtoii the .'inioiint of lalxn* expended on eavli artieh^ or whether upon the altracli'.eness of it; I eoiijd not; tell, Imt it <'ertainly was not !'ejj^iilate(l \\\ t he supply and demand; lor instaiiee, you would see a do/eii l>ask<'ts olTered 1)\ a do/en Indians, each askinii; three dollars as the price, whereas HI eoiild lniy for a , their attire CO CO nsist iiiiH" of a full supply of female cosfiiine, litliiilait(Ml in the ])ack ; and t»acli fiu^ui'e, young or old, male oi' female, was the owikm" of a )>lanket. h I III: SliKA L\'J)IA\S. (t( 9l> wliicli sceiiK'd as iiidlsjM'iisaljle w'A lIu' full to tin; ( Jliiiia- iiiaii, <>i' tlic iiiiil)i'('lla to tli<^ I'JiL^lisliiiiaiu 2Ui(l WUH iiia-ruL:", just as tlie (K'casioii r«M[uire(l ; i;('iu'i"ally It Iiuii;;' down fioiii (ht» top of t 1m' liead, often was thi'owii ON (•!• tlie sliollldei's, tlie head ^ iM'iiii;' tiiil)aiie(l in a liii;lily -eohn'cfl liaiid- kei'eliief ; Imt in the suiisliine, as tliey sat sellini;' tlieir wai'es, it was mostly hi'ou^lit ai'ound the liips and I'oKhMl ael'oss tlie lap. {Kodah'd hy Miss M. O.JuHi/i.) It is wonderful wliat a superstili(»us aversion they have to the eaniei'a. When we tried oiii* Kodaks on tlieni they instantly eii\-eloped t iieinseUcs in theii* blankets, and woidd noi iuconci' until some old crone wlio liad an eye tliroUL;h a l»ole of lier hood gave tin; signal. Tliis wus in fact so mysterious tliat we tried to I'eason witli thtMii, showed tlieni pictures of oui'- selves, oifei'ed to send tlieni tlieir likenesses by tlie next boat, but all to no j»urpos(^, and we \vere al)out to ijjive it up, when at tli«' suijfLCestion of one of "tlie oldest inliubitauts" we held aloft a sihci- dollar. i W ,1 % I 1. ( ! loo ./ IIDA/AX'S IKir ro ALASKA, 1 % I -m Iiislniill> IIk'It whs .'t cliaiii^r. 'IMu* sii|M'i's(irnui sliii|»Iy (•(Hisislcd ill I In* iM-Iicf tliut il \\;is ii<»l lirallli\ l<»
  • ;iiiy I hint;' \villnnil Im-Iiilc ^^^ijh'" |>2ii(l r<*i' i(, n sii|i(>rslili(>ii .'■^||d^^^HF A W llicll l<> jM'I'V.'ulc i'if^^^H^T fli^ wjiiliM's, mikI |M»r(('is, mikI ('liaiiil>cnii;iir jM'oplc ,'ill <»\ri' t Im' world. Ii; a iiv<'-dol- lar i;'old jticci^ in tlic strccl. and liiid it llici't^ tlio next. da>', because no man hut. (lie <)\\iicr would dafe to lift it; hut in a niontli or Iwo tln^ li'i-owth of American civiliza-, lion li.'id Im'cii so ra|>id tliat, at (lie sound of (In^ fail of a (luard'i-, a do/en Japs would iiiadh rush at i(, (o |»ut \k\Hlah\{ h Mis.i M. /'. /.',-,/rot(^s(in^' that it was his. All aloiiij^ the main str(M't (►!: Sitka tln^ Iiulian women were asseml)le(l in li(th^ i;'ron[»s of foiirand iivt^ sijuatted in tlu^ shadows of the hoiist^s, admii'ahly count(M'l'eiting with theii* oli\'e skins, bright Idaek eyes, and showy colors th(^ Italian peasants on the Hte])s of tlit; churches in Home. Some of these women indulue in the hoirid y rilli SI IK A l.\l>/,LVS. lOI i L <*uh(oii«' <»i' ivoiy button iiiidei" the lower lip, c.'dh'd the lahrct, tlic sliutds of w'hicli |»asM«'s thi'oii^li a •slit, niudc ill the llcsli foi* lliis pnr '>s<' ; it iih'.-uis iiotliiiiij; I'Ut ndoriiMK'iit, and nssuincs diiV(M*<'Mt shapes and si/cs, a<'<'o!'d- iiiiL^ to t li<^ taste of I li(« weai'er. < )!' t Ills custom I saw a n'ood deal at \7'«'aiii4'en, tliouu'li 1 did Hot see tiiere what was xcrv coiispicMoiis ill Sitka, namely, the use of t he powder cni- hellislmn'iit, in w lii<'h theSitkaii !iiaid(Mis ai<. very [.rorM-icnt, handling- tJie suhjcvt ^^^'''^''^■'''^•'' ^^'" '''' ^'- ^'"^^^^^ with a delicacy of touch Avliicli was (piit(^ remarkable, >»a\ (' tiiat the ln'ow'iid)eri-y tones of tli<' thi'oat, ni*o\'e end)ai'i'ass- ing. Kn jKis.sdiif i may say that althougli in our case every pre- caution ^va^ taken to avoid any sliock to oni' sense of tlie conventional proprieti-'s. we ultimately found oui'selves in conversa- tion with an Indian [»atriarc]i on tlie threshold of his own wigwam, di-essed in a night-gown, and, to tell yon the truth, not nuich of a niglit-gown, after all. The ranclierie is u i'(>w of detaclied one-storv houses with gal)le I'oofs, built along the watei''s rocky edge at an elevation of four or live feet above the ii'round, each one approached by its separate flight of ])oar(l ste[)s. The shore in theii' front is strewn confusedh' with canoes, old bai'rels, tin cans, clothes-lines, strings of fish ill all stages of the drying process, broken utensils, l)ed- ding set out to air, dead dogs, decaying hsh and vege- tables, and such otlier thinu's as tend to excite the 7 O f ' '1 I I- :-"(^'^- ■ ^■••'iir- I 104 J //'7^J/J.\'\ /-A'//' /(^ ALASKA. olfactories (oil-factories, one of oiir party suggested) ; — tlie exterior of I In* houses is not so l)a(l, in fact I (loiil»l whetlier tlic lislieniK n on (he North ^\th*intie coast lia^e any l)etter, yet this makes tlu^ tilth of tlie inliahitants and tlieii- niisei"al>le nietliods tlie jnore ob- serval)l(^ Ea(di faniilv seems to ha\'e as man\' doijjs as ciiildren ; the foi-mer aie m mangy, mongrel l>reed of \m /(.* i t \ 'i> I^^Hqaimaux, and the latter, poor tilings, are, tor the most ])art, hlind, defoi'med in lind), ci'ip))led, and nearly all tainted with marks of sci'ofida. 'V\w al)h'd)odied men were off on their fishing expeditions, or em[)loyed at the salmon cannei'ies along the coast; the young s(juawsran around l)are-fo()t<' tln^ house* of tlie far-famed and very rich Vrincess Thoni, who is sai.i/. loc; I o (tliouu'li we s;i\V little evidence <>{' aii\' such liixiii'ioiis wealtli), which she lias acMjuired thi'oiiuli shi'e\ver 0,7<><> of the i-ancherie. Durini^ the adniinstratioii of ('aptain IJeardslee, of the V. S. Nav\ , in IS7i> all the houses of the Indians were nund)ered ; anlained tome, to each number ai"<' a(hle(l t wo cyphers, so tliat the home of the Princess was in realit\ No. (57, thouixh the four Hi:- ui'es o\ei' the door read <>,7^Hl. llcr Koyal nii^hness was liardly ready to receive at thisearly hour of the morninu", as was evidencecl l»y hei' l)ar«^ feet, \vhi(di we aftei'wards saw daintih' sIkmI asshe sat with hersuhjeets on th«' steps of the ( io\-einment House, l)ut they w crc^ as clean as thoUL!li i'.isl from the llussian l>ath ai'ound the corner, and she weIcome(l us with the same ol)se(pnous politeness with which the Chatham Street el<»thiei- would ask " Don't \ou want to 1)U\ a nice coat V She is veiy fat, of course not very fair, and much over fort\, and when we entei'ed the palace offered us chairs wliih^ she *-•-* went for the arti- {AWiUu//>yMiss J/. Z). hcach:) "^ ; ' \ ik '"^rf U ...:> m ii I ; . » |i !|i iftlH i(>^ / /IV^J/J.\'.S 7/v7/' /(> U.ISKA. ;iii1<1, Kill ai«' all III r.'iv-oi'nf iiiiliiiiittMl silvt^i'). Tliesc ••onsistcMl of l)i-ac('l('(s, l)aii!^lcs, ('ai"-fiiiiz,"s, l>ask<*ls, and wood cai'N - iiiu's, \«'i'y Ix'aiiliriilly made l)y lici- [x'oplc, iipoji w liicli slic had ;id\ ;iiic('d iiioiicN' iit the heddiiiLi', l»lank(^ts, and sheets were all neat and clean. I ler " man of e(|iial riL;;lits'" was also [)resent; wliether he was a ]»rince I reall\' cannot say — h(f ,1M)(); is tliat of a, reli^'ious fanatic oNcr wliose dooi* is a sign upon which are painted the words, " Mlislia Ltaliin — head of a larg<' family of oitho(h»x ('liristians."" Tf all tlie liomes liad been as oidei'ly and w
    eeu little •5»>*f#^' y. (h\u/,i/:'dh' Mi.^s M. /). A',m/t.) . ■ 'M i i i» ' ii. H m 2 O c O I— < > z s o el > if ■.\ |J| I ; ;!l it ■ \' ' iout they were fur from it. I eiit("i'Nas eoni]»ell|)ed in their 1)lankets sitting on the tioor Avaiting for the morning meal,a s(jualid unwaslied hahy scream- ing from anothei* eoi'ner, and two or tliree stalwai't, lazy men lounging ai'ound witli theii'liands i)i their pockets; encircling the room was an elevated platfoi'in ujxm winch wei'e thrown, not witli tlie artistic indifference to ari'angement recommended hy Oscar Wihh', hut in a confused mass, witliout any oxes ; and from the I'afters hung smoked salmon and bits of bacon and fresh meat. The odors ^velv simply frightful, and thouiih I di(l not count Iionn nian\ distinct smells 1 /fONRONs (>/■■ r/f/': A\i.\'(7//-A'//-:.. 109 .'tV t it the at ■ay, oil 111*;' 1.8, the 111(1 iiul 1 perceived, I shall e\er t'eel grateful to (he giddy, be- jewellef musk whicli for tlie first time in mv life I found most useful and I'efreshino'. Passiiiij: alonu: and editiful, miserable thing that it would ha\'e been a mercy to shoot, thoimli this doubt- less would have brought down upon us the rage of the entire rancherie. Tlie South American poet intended to describe that creature when he said, "iVr; (I'd 11 mt jxrrd s(n'n.(is((, (^ni una s((n7(r pen'om.'' 1 had seen enough, more than I care to tell, and I retraced my ste[)s through the throng of men, ^vomen, children, and dogs, all dirt}', infected, diseased, and most miserable. Dante's famous line best ex[)resses our feelings: "' JVon (•(((jionaiH (li hN\ )H(i (jiKU'da e pdssay Jl ; S !i ^ I i 1 **! f If ''. I ••'as '.' I lO ./ iro.]/ l.V'S TKir l\) ALASKA, .«V"r/ We next visited the sliops kept l)y i\iii(^ricaiis, who li.'id .'I iiiucli lMr!i;er and choicei' assortiiieiit <>F curios lliaii {\\(.\ Indians, ainonu," llieni a (plaint, unitpn^ Uus- sian sanioN ar, s(nne totems carved on walrus ivory liandsoniely inlaid ^^'ith pehMes, many remarkable ])lts of Indian carving, and hundreds of prettily slia[)ed and hrilliantlv decorated baskets. Next we found ourselves with a ci'owd of our fellow-passengers in another shop, buying pliotograpliic views of Alaska from the cameras of Tabor, of San Francisco, and Parti'idge, of Poi'tland ; they were ([uite clieaj), and much better than \ saw anvwliere else ; so I recomnnMid \'ou, if a'ou e- \\ riod. Tlie juu'cli or eiitraiice is sui'iiiouiitcJ ])y a S(|uare tower of two stories, upon wliicli is a l)eliTy containlnii; a chime of several bells, and al)o\ c, a very symmetrical ra(lis]i-slKq)e(l spire (excuse tlie simile), to2>l>«d l>y «'i cross of four distinct crosses ; over the nave is a Byzantine dome, and above tins a cupola again surmounted l)y the compound (ireek cross. Tlie d^>me and spire were once j)ainte seats. Arch- bislio[) AMadimir and his four assistants wore the sacer- dotal ornaments of their re8[)ective offices, which were really superl) ; the garments were of ex(juisite texture of gold, silver, and silk embroider}', and the mitres studded with rare jewels of, I should think, inuiiense value. The litui'gy, in the Slavonic language, was clianted by one of the priests, who had the most mu- sical bass voice I ever heard (tliongh aboard sliip lie smoked ciirarettes from morniiiir until niii, wcic coii- tiimnllv howiiiii: tlic head and iiiakiiiii" the si^:!! of tlie tToss ; tlicy were scdiolais in tlio clnii'cli school. At tl»c conclusion of tln^ ritual ihc Archhishop dclix- ered an a(>(], to the; effect that the ]»ivlat('s ai'(^ sclccttMJ fi-oin among tlie bishops, who ai'(^ all celibates, and that tin* pi'ef'erence f.dls u])ou those \\h<>se featui'es most i'esend)le (he ti'aditional C'hi'ist. Ai'chbishop Vladimir, as a passenger on the good ship (^>iu(n^ was a very tall ratherthin man, clad in a long cloak to his ankles and a ca]»t^ to his el])o\vs, and wearinii' a, \ (TN' bi-oa(bbrinuned, low-crowned felt hat, his hair being ]>laited and tied in a litth^ bunch at his neck. At tlu^ altar, dressed in the [>ui'ple and g(>ld robes of his Church, he had a face of amiabh^ benevo- lence, a soft, flossy moustache and beard, his hail' |)ai'ted in the centi'e and flowing g!'acefully ovei' his shoulders. Tht! carefully studied imitation \\\\^ a[)[)arent ou the instaut ; there you saw the ideal picture in the centre of Leonardo da ^'^inci^s fresco of "The T^ast Su|)[)er,*'' I ^\isll with all my heart I could have com|)rehended his words, for I could see by his gestures that they were t^arnest, sim])le, instructi^'e, and loving. The service being over, he came down among his people, laying hands upon them anrs, eacli ex- (pii.sitely oi'iiamented by solid silver iinaf tliat metal, w liile tlui r<'atuivs, hands, mid feet are in c()h)rs, — a (plaint C()nd)inati()n, yet very etVectivt^ Tlu-y ij^av(^ tlui impres- sion of heinii; (lie work of a master-hand, and I much regretted tliat tliere apju'ared to l)e no iiK'ans of ascer- tain ing the artist's name. An liour ean be very well spent liere by the art stiKh'iit. Among tliose present (biring (he entire s<'rvi('e I o])served two very charming young women, w lio were evidently as little apart of what w^as going on as 1 was myself, ami with them a lovely blue-eyed child of about three years of age, whosci pure white skin and ])retty dress made him a beautiful pearl among the tawny skins of the unwashed natives. After a little hesitation, T a[)pi'oached and introdiice(l myself, (Hily to discover that they were just as anxious to speak with me as [ Avas to talk with ihem. Of course it resulted in our becoming fast friends for the remainder of the day, as they proved to be the wives of officei's of the Pinta^ which vessel, you Avill remember, we left at Fort Wrangell. One of them, Mrs. F., was from Phila- delphia, the city of '' homes " ; the other, Mrs. K., from AVashington, the city of " social life " ; and here they were out on the far-off coast of Alaska, and had been for ever so long, without either home or society. One of them I'esided in apai'tments at a restaurant or tavern near the church, which lier own taste and famil- iar?';' with refinement had made habitable, and the Ajr/iAvr.ix [..ini/is ix sfrkw. ns le <'it or il- lie otlici' (Wliosc liusbaiid 1iji|)[kmu'(1 t(» 1m' willi lu-i) lived over H sliop across the sti'eet in a c- pi'oacli(Ml over a creaky, tiiiiil)l(Mlo\N n staircase, Iml rather cosey wlieii yoii iijot into tliein and experienced tlie liospitality of thc^ [►h-asant hostess. Nevertlieless they seemed happy, at h'ast they would not confess that tliey wei'e not so; still, I made a 'ow, on the spot, that if I am ever awi(h)\v, naval otlicei's \wvA not ap[)ly. Said one of them : '^ I e: Meet to leave? this place in Se[)tend)er, Init ha\'e no idea where Ave will l)e ordered.'^ Stiid tht> other: "I have been here three years — my hoy is a Sitkan." Now Sitka is very l)eautiful, very romantic, is wttinij: to h'^ a jj-ocxl deal talked of all ovei* the world, and will ])rol)al)ly o;row a. .1 i)ros])er, hut it is wo place for charming young women to spend three or four of the best years of their young lives, se[)arated from their husbands most of that time, and left almost entirely to the uneonsxe- nial society of a population seven eighths of \vhom be- long to the race who twice in the history of the city have massacred the wdiites. These ladies confessed to me that there Avas n(^ ctrine of I'e- generation, for wlio, being ])orn in I>oston, would have anv <]esire or occasion to be born aL:;ain." ITearing that the Indian lliver in the suburbs of the town is worthy of a visit, we accepted the escort of our two young friends, and after a \\'alk of half a mile (I believe I luive already said thai there are few liorses « in Alaska, and no carriaii'es) Av^e came to a I'eallv very (plaint and romantic lane, leading to a clear and rapid stream ovei' which is thro^vn a i)retty rustic sus])en- si(tn l)i'idge. It is a very charming spot, rich with ferns of most (hdicate texture and l)i'iii::litest green and velvet mosses, such as those which border the foot- [)aths through tlie woods in England, a bower of wild foliage in fact, of ex(piisite color. By all means stroll through it, if for no othei' [)ur[>()se than to inhale the pure ail' that has never come in contact with tlie rancherie. On your way back, you will discover, per- ■^ hi " > 71 73 , If. P' tf 1*1 # !ii fi 1^ 1] lit Il8 J //7).I/J.\".S' 77vV/' /V) J/../.SA'./ lijips, tliiit Al;isk.'i, like Ircl.'Uid, lias licr '• l>l.'iniey- stone/' l»iit wliy, I rc.-illy camiot tell, for, excepting' the little groiijt of my own coiintry woiiieii, who might he counted on the lingeis, there is not anoihcr face in Sitka which would retlect a res|)oiisi\ (^ smile to the sweetest thing that fell from lij)s tliat had kissed the Idarney-stone a liundi-ed times. The stone may he I'ecoii'ni/ed, should nou ha\(' an\- diilicultv in lindini;' it, by the names of toui'ists and insi-riptions cut all oNer it in all the tongues of the 'I'ower of Bahel. And now, ([uite l)y accident, I liad [)erhaps the most interesting experienc(M>f my whole trip, — certainly one that has made an everlasting impi'ession upon my mind ; an object lesson which often and often \vill set me think- ing, a sul)ject wliich would reip.iire a volume to do it approximate justic(». The joyous shouting of half a hundred boys, some of them dashin*'' aci'oss tlie road in pursuitofafootd)all; well-clothed, well-fed l)oy«; healthy, vigorous, intelligent boys ; Indians, lialf-bi*eeds, Musco- vites, and a few Americans. AVliat did it mean i From where had they so suddenly come ? From scliool. f * I \ \ memm Tim PRI'-SnVTERIANMlSSIOX Si IfOOLS. 1 19 Tliese were the heiiefieiaries of tl,e " Pi'e.s])vtenan Hoanlof ll<„ne Missions," aiid tlie lai-e l)i,il(iin.. <„, the riglit of tlie road is the seliool-liouse. ( )f cMiise I had read about tliis Missi(„i ; all tlic^ ])(>oks 0:1 Alaska refer t(» it more or less ; yvi tlie kiioxvledge of its ex- istence liad l)roiig],t no special desire to visit the place. To me Sitki was Ww, vestige of a departed empire- tlie home of a decaying race of al)origines ; a depot for the sale of Uusso-Tndiaii relics an(i curios; a pi'etty little t(AMi timidly hiding away in among the mount- mils ; and for that T had come to see it and had heeii .imply repaid. But the " Mission " I had ncN er thou-ht of; perhaps the l)ook-writers had failed to attract me to It ; perhaps my faith in missions generallv was not very conHrmed ; perhaj^s I did not l>elieve what I read about them. I^e that as it may, hereafter no man, nor Nvoniau either, shall outdo me in words of ])raise and thanks for the glorious Godlike uork which is being pei-formed by the good people Nvho are rescuing the lives, the bodies, and the souls of these poor creatui-es froin the l>hysical and moral deaths they are dying. T am not a Christian woman ; my faith is that of the chosen peo- ple who were led out of Egyptian tyraunv and dark- ness by the pillar of lire and the pillar of cloud ; but my whole nature is in accord with these Christian' men and women, whose immolation and sacrifices to reo-en- erate their fellow-creatures will surely meet with heavenly reward, no mattei- what their creed. I wish r had had more time at my disposal to speml with the teachers and the scholars s(» that 1 might now ul I niav s.'iv to tliose wlio (lesii'e to know more tl»an ni\ brief .'ie([uaintjine(^ wltli the siibjeet enal^l(^s me to tell them, that these Mission schools of Alaska are in eliar^e of the Uev. Hlieldon ffaekson, \vh(^se address is Sitka, and although I haAR,vs TR ATxiNv.-scHooL. ^'J^T^^" ^ry, slioeuiaking, and {Kodak'd i>y Author.) bhick-smitliing, aud the gii'ls TIfli rRIiSnVTJiRIAX M/SS/OX Sc7/0iU.S. 121 fire tniii [lit (li ik .1 tl ress-uijikiiiL!^ and tlie use or tlie se\viiii;'-iii.'i f til •liine. L went lii'st iiity her pupils. Next we went to the Primary Department over which Miss Delph of Crestline, Ohio, presided, who, with great ])atience and kindly fin'bearance, was performing the difficult opei'ation of extracting the guttural sounds fi'oni two Indian maidens' throats and adapting them to the pronunciation of Knglish w^ords. Up-staii's we found the dormitories, like every thing else about the establishment, orderly, neat, and clean, due regard being paid to the number allotted to eadi room, and to the subject of heatini*: an(^ ventilation. In the sew- ,„e mission cildren. ing de[)artmeiit were {Kodak'd by Author.) 3 ■'. J JI'(\U.L\"S TRir TO ALASKA. s<)H tlio scwiiig-ina- cliiiic, other's ciitthii;' from tlic; [»lece, uiid youiii^cr ones bMstiiio; for tlic sewiiij; o-irls. 'I'lic colors of tlic mute- rial were all hrii^lit, in fact (luite i^aiKh, L;-l\iii!j'- proof that these children are encouraged to gi'atify ihe harm- less tastes of their race, w hich is eminently |)ro[ter. Next we were taken to Mrs. Shepard's shops, and altlionii'h the work was o\ei" for the da\', we could [)lainly see by the specimens of handiwork all around us what a noble charity her philanthropy and bounty had created. Evei'v thini'' within siij^ht of us had been built by the Indian boys who weiv the pu[)ils of the Pi'esbyterian Mission and of Mrs. She}>ar(rs training-school, including the sclioobhouses themselves, (foi* the\' had recently Ix^en destroyed by fire,) and the LTroui) of little cottaii:es in the distance whi(di Mrs. Austin begs us to yisit, tliat we may liave an op])ortu- nity of seeing " how our pupils live when they marry and go to housekeeping." '' Jose})h "' was at home when we knocked at the door, but his ^vife and little ones had gone down to the landing to see tlie new ship (the Quee/t). Jose[)h Avas a man of about twenty-live years of age I should say ; when we distiirljed him he was sitting at a table in his little parloi* Avriting a letter which T sa^y commeiuHMJ *■ My dearest and best fi'iend." It was ])eing written to a Mr. Miller in the East, who had been his benefactor and to whom he chiefly owed his rescue from a life of idleness or ^yorse. Josepli was living in a house ^vhich he had built himself, every inch of it, doors, windows, staii'cases, tables, every ..A MRS. /:. F. S/f/iPARjys JIOSriTALS. 123 tliinsj^ in fact that a carpenter could make, ^vas tlurwork of liis own liands. His parlor was ji pei'fect i:;ein of taste, oi'der and cleanliness, and as foi* liis two bed- rooms on the second story, which we all visited (a dozen or more of us) they coulcbrt have been sweeter or neater if they liad been placed there pur])()8ely for exliibition. My only refjret was that I had not the o[)[)f crimes. Hut I and those ladies and i^'entle- nins andto^lrs. Klliott F.Shepard, the reverse is a great joy. r I'i TlIK MlSKl'M AT SII KA. (k'o(ink\n>y Ant /tor.) .'•r CIIAPTKU IX. '^8 tlu' time arrived for oiii" dcjjnrture from Sitka a great portion of tlie popu- lation eaiiie down to tlie landiiii'', and just before we started we were sui'j)rised to see approaclilng tlie ship a long procession headed by a brass ])and which played (piite good music. These were some of the pupils fi'om the Mission school, and tliok at the dissolvinij: view of the shii). And, oh, what a cliai*niing [)icture was ours as we steamed out of tlie harbor of Sitka at six (►'clock that lovely sTumner evening ! 'I'he sky could not have been a more cloudless azure blue ; it ^\■as just cool enough to provoke a walk to and fro upon the deck ; there was so little aii- stirriuij: that the smoke ascended in a per[)endicular column from the stack, and the sheen upon the water made the ocean a sea of sil- ver. A\'e all felt so jolly ; everyl)ody de- lighted with the day's experience, and each person having some lit- tle episode to relate of the day s])ent in Sitka. Not a grumbler ; not a single soul disappoint- ed about the slight- {^Kodak'iii'y Auiiior.) est thing; in fact it * |i >i I:t iH ■a ) 77//:* /sr.LV/lS JAVV'.W) SfTKA. \27 was iiiv first ('.\'i)(']'ieeu so kind to us; nor of those poor souls whose darkness uiay never he dis[)elled hy the enliii'htenment of education and civilization ; and it oecniTed to m** that if I ow ned the steamship line! would l>>iil, and then life at Sitka would not be so intolei'able ; and that if T was tin? govern- ment of the United States, I would j)ut the Indiana under such (lisci[)line that their ([uai'ters should be sui)ject to ins[)ection, and their children com[)elled to m) to school. What two jj^reat l)oons these ^^•ould l)e to Sitka, and how easy to accom[)lish both. But the scenery is so beautifull}' grand that I must keep my moralizing for some future time. This is the Sitkan Archipelago, and w^e are in the midst of so many islands that I don't know whether to speak of them by hundreds or thonsands ; they are excpiisite emerald, pink, yellow, and crimson islands all of them, so close to eacli other that the deer swim to and fro as the canary leaps from perch to perch, and the shadows of their tall forests fall from one to the other just as the housetop throws its shade across the street ; yet the channel is so deep between them that we circle and wind in and out of them at a rate of speed which < '11 ii ■iSHHHHIiaiiilililUiHHHil rr '.iyi is . >! 128 A irO.ir. LV\S TRIP TO ALASKA. throws \\w. water \\\yiS\ ii|> upon tlicir l)aiilcs, t'i'ii::liten- iiii^ tlic wild (lucks and i^ccsc, wlio in Hocks ami couples (lai't aci'oss our how continually. Mount I'](li;('conil)(', Hv(^ miles ri is lesclled at it, and we distinctly sec; tlie gapiuii; mouth of the crater and the dcej) ravines cut hy the; rivers of L'lva whicli ha\e rolled to its hase. We au'ain take the outei" (diaimel, kee[)inii; Mount Kdi^econdx' on our riij^ht for several hours, it a|)peared to me, — eacli view of it Ix'iuij^ more and more conHrmatoiy of its volcanic character. We arcMiow ])assinn' ju'ound Kruzof Island, and when well out to sea, steer due north alonu; the western coast of 'rcliitchagoff IslaiK^i towards (/ros« Sound, whicli is tlu; outlet of (jlacier P)ay. it is half- j)ast ten o'clock wlien we a[)proach Cape Cross, yet it is daylight, rea' daylight, by which }'ou can read a news|)aper just as well as at tea-time. What is that white streak al)ove the horizon I'ight ahead of us? Is it a cloud, or some optical illusion? "Nothing of the kind ; it is the Fairweather range, the most beautiful snow mountains in the world,'' says Captain Carroll. "Sorry it will be a ^ lark when we get thei'e, but you shall see the aaylight if tlie weather holds uj)." Fortunatt. is we were out of reach of tele- gra|)hic conuuunication, tlu Weather Bureau liad no chance to dash our hopes with [)rognostications of "cloudy, followed by local rains," or any nonsense of that kind, and as the sun had gone down full of \ ij 1 J MCll I 01' C0.\ I IXL'AL PA V. 129 proiiiist', we li.'t feel Iiopcl'iil lliat tlic (\'il)t<'iiii would !)(' al»h' 1<» keep liis word, and well did he keep it I wo days later. Bui, to reluni to (!|-oss Sound; l»y I'el'ei'eliee to tli«' ina[»s you will lliid that here \\v eliaiiLCe oui' eoiii'se al)i'Uptly to the riL:;lit, and yon will also i*eniai'k, prol)al>Iy, that this water is eallcMl on some of them '; m m \. H! tl Icy Strait. It is eleven o\'lo(d\. ; hardly a passeiig(»r has retired for the night — night, did I say c Night it may have been by the clock, but by the heavens it was a night of continual dav Some of ns liad determined not to go to })ed at all, and the C'a))tain, overhearing this heroic resolve, proni[)tly placef 1(1 II le /../ }rA(iiE ])r coLORisr 131 away <»ff in the northwest, suspended, as it were, like a l)rilied by the obliging stewards. It was the "dawn of the morning'' on Satui'day, June 7th, when Ave first saw floating ice ; a piece about the size (►f a i'(^wd)oat and about tliH same sha[)e, but it was lar\\('\ CI', Mild ill a little wliilc, i'\ ('I'vIkmI}' wjis <>ii a\ stcu'rini'' direeth north, witli tiuf Heardsle(i cluster of j)i('tur(^S(|iie islands on our rlu^ht and strai^'L^liiii;* icebergs all around us. Ahead of us, ill the distance, is \VillouL;hl)y Island, and our strai<';htest coui-se to the Miiir (ilacicM* w Mild leave this island on tln^ left, but thei'e are two or three ver\' in- terestinir Li'laciers on the west coast of (i lacier I^ '1 which (-aptain (Jarroll, with characteristic courtesy, is anxious we should s(^ e, so lie inaKcs lor tl le narrow channel Ix^tweeii (Ik^ isl.-uid and th(^ W(^stern shore. It was s(^ven (Tclock in the moriiini^ wIhmi we enterey Aulkoy.) 1; II f ■'. interest and excitement am sometimes of anxiety. I do no injustice to Captain Carroll i.u//)s/' run icnmiKCs. 133 wluMi J veiituic the hclicf that if \\(\ Iuk! known the rwil condition of \\w, clianncl he would liaxc taken tin; easterly coui'se ; at all events it a\ as ])atent to ('\ery one on hoard, fi-om tlie prudence with which the shi]> was handled .and the ))!•( .-autions which were taken to avei't any too violent collision witli the ]nii,^e Hoating masses Nvliich confi-onted us, that the occasion an extraordinai'N' onc^ Avas Til lese icehei'ii's wci'c curious studies; I i;i'e\v thicdv and threatening, and I overheaid the ('aj)tain mutter, Pretty places to be caught in a fog," as In^ ])eerlatforni in rear of the InidLTc, were treated to «'is Ijcauliful ji specimen of skilful sliip steer- inii; as ean l)e iman'iiie(l. The (Captain liad l^een at liis post from the time we left Sitka on the previous evenini::, still he sliowed no siirn (»f fatiirue : on the contniry, his head and eye nnist botli liave ])eeii uncommonly clear to have broui^ht so larij^e an ocean ship through such a field of obstacles without the sliujhtest accident. I know, for he told me so, that he fully expected to lose one, or perhap^s two, blades of the })i'o[)eller, and I could see by the contoi'tions of his face as we thunqx'd against a hundred tons of floating ice and toppe rind were steer- HMi at ►n ihi' l»e('U ocejiii It the lint lie xles of ions of oils of he ^vas igjilnly stJintly •of the , ^^ hieh itli our 11, who ier Bay learned lip eon- •e could tiniially shon^ to inakinii; ' ice so ^v]lether ter all an A MOM/iX r Ol' AXXIlilW 135 illusion. Once, and only once, we came to a deadsto[); the surface of the watei' could be nowhere seen ; the narrow channel was itself a glacier, and the crunchini;" masses of huii'e slahs (►f marhle ice which choked it piled themselves one u]H)n the other, like shee[) driven into a cuhde-mc It was a moment of some anxiety. The men seemed to I'ealize the peril more than the women, for they had heen intei'v iewiiiL!: the sailors and had learned that no such ice-tl(>w had heeii encoun- tered since Ca])tain (-ai'ioll tirst e\[>lored tlies*^ A\aters sevti? years before. AVe \. 'men did not at themomeni compreiiend that the contact of the pi'o- l)ellei' with one of these bergs {Kodak'd hy Author.) might render the ship entirely helpless in a place beyond the reach of snccor, and in a sea \vliich would pulveri/e oiir little steam launch if we attempted to use her, so that we were de])rive(l even of the ability to search fo!' assistance in case of neetain ran half-way up the foremast, glasses m hand, and for soni<' minutes, like the picture of -r-p'^^j^ .'i 111 1 _ ' il \\ ! I m r.-" I ■[ '^i " . \ i, h\ ( m 1 1 w Pi L ■' ■'> V \ -.: (■ Hi P ; 1. ^•1 ' \ 1 ' } I \ CM, r n'l i 136 WOMAN'S TRIP TO ALASKA. i ':!< Farramit in Mobile Bay, .sliouted liis oiders to the w'lieel -house. Tlien again resuming liis monotonous and nei'vous pacing U|)on the ])ri kn< \- that there were a few disjuncted scraj)s of sentences floating around tlie atmospliere foi* several minutes, such as : " Nice time for coifee I — Port her ! — Steady ! — Pretty time to be drinking coffee I — Starboard a little ! — Coffee, indeed I — Slow hei', sir I — Slow her, T say! — (offee!" It is proper to say, however, that a fe\v liours later the poor affrighted steward was addressed in huiguage as courtly as : "I'll tidve that coffee now, steward, but don't ever bother me again when I've got my hands full." Of coui'se it is very difficult to convey by words any ap[)recial)le or intelligent idea of the scene through Avhich ^ve wei-e passing, nor can T hope to do so fully by the aid of my camera ; foi' I find that wdiere the ice was densest the atmosphere was too thiclc to secure pi'ints which would bear repro- duction ; still, those wdiich I obtained, wdieii the fog lifted in spots which \vere less obstructed, may })er- haps serve the purpose measurably. I can only say that, as far as the eye could reach in all directions, the ocean was covered witli masses of ice, varying in size from that of a large house to that of the morning supply at the area gate after a mild Avinter ; and they were of all imaginable shapes — many containing deep caverns wath stalactite roofs ; many honey-combed \ 1 't H i \ ? I Vi ) since Professor Muir first saw it frcmi an Indian canoe, and it is exceedingly doubtful whether five thousand white j)e()[)le all told have eiH'i' seen it, though I have little doubt that a ^' ^ 1 , , 1 1' II 11 nil a iil :•- \ I 1 1^ 140 A IIVA/AX'S TRir TO ALASKA, '\i « » I L;"r(*at(M' mimlu'r tliaii tli.'it will visit it aiiiiually licre- after, the troiihle of iL!;<'ttinij^ tlicrc hciiiji; i'('ln'r«» nf tliis vvjinm stiTuiirs action nmy Itc widcninLC ; widcnini:; for tlu* wise pmpose of tluiwini^ out a wealth of soil and metal which as yet is not nei'dcd. It may take cen- turies, perha[)s, to convert the valleys of the mountain ramies, now i('e-eloL(i;('(l, into nourishinif rivers, hut the process may he iJ^oing on, and if it is, ]in power to pro- duce it can be more potent than this i^reat trulf stream of the PaciHc. It will probably never be ascertained how lonix a time it 1ms taken for the •'lacier to fall back from \Villoui!:hby Island to its present ])osition, and it certainly has n«>t yet l)een determined with any deujree of accuracy at what i*ate of s[)eed tln^ vast body of ice is inoviiii^ towai'< of ouhli fWf (>/' icf' hratk off f/'otn the facade of tJie yjair Ghwicv enertf ttrtnft/-foiir hours. (Hereafter the Swiss mer de glace will have to be pi'inted in ver)- small ty[)e. ) Prof. (1. Fi'cderick Wright and a [)ai'ty of scientific friends visited tln^ glacier in August, 188r), for the purpose of making investigations of its glacial phenomena. His pa[»er, [)ublislied })y the Alaskan Society of Natural Ilistoiy and Ethnology, is veiy interesting, especially u[)on the subject of the recession _l /•//A Ml'IR CL.K'II'.K. 143 of tli« \('K\ front, from w liicli I ('oiiclii(l(^ tliatcMcli succeed- \\vf veur tlui li'lorvof its iimiit'ii.sitAsoiiiew'liatiliiiiiiiislics Afte?' stntliiL!: liis reasons for liis faitli, he says : "Tims tiu'i'e can he n<> reasonahle (loiiht (hat dni'inu' tlie earlier part of this centnry tlie ice filh'd tlie inhH se\-eral miles furthei'down than now. iVnd thei'e can scarcely 1)(^ less doubt that the Lflacier then till<'ression nor the com})lexion, nor the sound of the voice of nature are to be found upon the dull sur- face <^)f the photogra[)li ; you simply get the general lines, some of the shadows, very erroneous perspective, and that is all. AVe had come to a standstill while we were at lunch. I had observed the slackening of speed ; next tl)e stoppage of the machineiy ; then the absolute stillness of the ship ; and finally a darkening of the saloon. AVe were evidently at a halt under the shadow of some innueiise elevation. A passenger on tiptoe looked s Tlfli Ml'IK CLACIIiR. '45 tlii'oui^^li tli(^ jM>i'Nli(.l(., Mild iitt»'iv(l ail cxcluiiiatioii of miia/eiiieiit : then uv all nislied 1(. similar apei'tures ; (•liiii])e(1 on tlic cliairs, looked over tlie men's slioul- -'ui additional fifty ; a wall extend- r % li w r i^^ fi P? !»' i; ■|i! 1 ' 1^. » i ' ') II '; m o < c E- <: \"i \^ vJ .J ■ -— '— ^~— — — ^^ 77//:" }rnR CLACfl'.R. T47 ing down (lecjH'i- ill tlu^ occ.-ui tliaii it rr.-iclies ft-ojii the ocean to tlie sky, — liai'd as adamant, sliai'[> and edij-ed like tiint, acjua-niarine in color, dee[»eninn- towai-ds the \vat(M' into in(liLi:o, ti[>[)ed on the snniniits and pro- jections with a fi*(>tli of snow. If I did not know that it ^\•as ice, I should Ixdievt^ that it was L^-lass. If [ led a con- vocation of ai'chiteets, \\ ho in theii" collective inL:;enuity had rei)roduced a cond)ination of the vlut'.'<-(V(VHi)re of their art; f<>r hei-e were tlie butti'esses of the l^n""- lish a.l)])evs and Hsinu- Inittresses of Xotre Dame, turrets of tlie Normans, towers of the eai'lv Kne, I asked myself, if in the afternoon th«^ setting sun shall light it U[>^ But ^ve art^ too cdose to it for our own safety, Ave learn, and are slowly moved ))ackhalf a mile, where our anchor is dro[)ped and preparations are made to row us on shoi'(^ to climb to tlie top of the glacier. While we are moving, a sharp detonation rings out like the tiring of a rifle, and one of the beau- tiful s[)ires on the crest of the very centre of the wall is shivered into atoms, and its fragments fall an itli a splash four hundred feet. Later, thei'e is a report as of a cannon, but without result; this we are told is the parting of the sea of ice somewhere far back in its i« '•il 5. ) I i- I4se(l l)Hfoi'e tlie l<>\t*ly tiling I'ose to tlu* surface, ])iit it seemed ail a^ce, and tlien it came in a dozen pieces, eacdi of tlie same exipiisite diaplianous l>lue, wliicli as they ap[)i'oaclied us o:i*adually cliaiiLred to a ch^ar ti'aiisparent saj)j)hii'(\ If it will help to serve the pui'pose of giviui^ a just idea of the coh)Ssal propor- tions of the scene I endeavor to descrilje, h^t me say that the (\*i])itol at Washington, tlie City Hall in Philadelphia, the Cathedral, E(piital)le, and th(^ ]\Lills Buildings in New ^'ork, and all the inamnioth news- paper offices in the same city, might 1)e floated in front of the Muir (rlacier, and yet its emerahl walls would overt()[) and engulf them all. As a contrast to all that is pure and (diaste in the scene l)efore n' , there I'ushes ont from the eastern end of th(^ ^ ■I * r i J r I )• \i 150 J (r(9J//iA".S- /Yv'//' 7Y? J/.J.SA'J. nature and in art at home and alu'oad, iSnt Oav hours spent at Mnir (irlacier made tln^ ictui'e a hackgrountl of mount- ains fifteen thousand feet high, all snow-clad, and then iman'ine a i^orij^eous sun li'ditinn' up the ice crystals with I'ainbow coloring. The face of tlie glacier takes on tlie Inu' of a(pia-marine, the hue of (^erv bit of Hoating ice, big and littlt^, that surround the steamer and make navigation serious. Tlurse dazzling ser[)ents move at the rate of sixty-four feet a day, tumbling lu'adlong into the sea, and, as they fall, the ear is startled by submarine thundei', the echoes of which re- sound far and near. Down, down, (h>wn goes the ])erg, and woe to the boat in its way when it rises again to the surface." k-. THE MiiR (;T..\cniR 151 to OiiAin.KsirALLiMK ill ••()||I•^^.^^ Alaska/'pp. 172-;^: "TIh" oiacicr wall (.\ cilimii;- us witli its mighty iiiaj- <'sty, tliiee times the liclglit «.f the steamcr'w'mast, or more, and we se. 276-7: "Tlu^ roar of artillery ii[)()n a battle-field could hardly be more deafening or incessant than were the thrilling re])orts caused by the faHin. 42, (piotes Prof. Muir himself as saying, that the front and Ijrow of the glacier were "dashed and sculpt- ured into a uiaze of yawning chasms, ravines, canyons, crevasses and a bewildering chaos of architectural forms, beautiful beyond tlie measure of description, and so l)ewildering in their beauty as to almost make the spectator believe liti was j=evelling iii a dream." "There were," he said, " gi'eat clusters of glistening spires, gables, obelisks, monoliths and castles, standing out boldly against the sky, with bastion and mural, ) ! ! . 1 i L h '1 i.f F ' ^■'t ' M' ' D •i ' 1 1 \ " i r t dt 1 J 54 .1 irOA/.Ly\S TRIP 10 ALASKA. sui'iiiomitt'd ])V f'lvtt^Ml c'oniict', and cvci'n interstice; and c'liasiii ivtU'ctiiis^ a slieeii of scintillating' liu'lit and asseiiii;ers in ejich. armed witli alpenstocks, were ferried in successi\'e oron]>s from the sliij) to the easterii ])eacii, a distance of pei'- lia[)s half a mile, instructions l>eini;' i^'iven to each steersman to kee[) a sharp look-out for falling icebergs. iVnd here your trou))le commences unless you are well advised. The ascent is exceedingly ditlicult; wliat looks like a mt)untain of rock over \vhich you must wend vour wav to the ice-tields, is really a mountain of ice covered })y a layer [' of slimy mud, crust- ed with pieces of flintv irranite, stand- ing u}) on end like broken bottle trlass on the to^) of a wall. I woi-e india-rubber high boots when 1 started, and I need- ed crutches l)efore I finished. Tt may l)e chilly as you leave TIIK ri.iMr,, Miss J/. lValsoii.\ \\ i iHQHta \\ TJll- l\ V ( )!■ Ml IK (,7..l( ll'.K. "» -I tlu^sliii), a('C(>i-(liiin"a>< tlic sum iii;i\- he out <»r in ; ifcliilK, g<'t V(»ui'('sc(»i't tncai'i'v ail ex Ira shawl t'«>i- \(Hi ((» w I'ai > yoiirselC in when yoii row hack (o tlic sliip ; if tlu? wpatli<*r is briglit and wai'ni, dot In* yoMi'sclC liuiiiU', for it gi'ows warnici' with tiic ^lai'i; IVoin tlic ice and iIk^ pliysical cxcilion. He very carcfnl wlicrc youstf]), and if you are wise, FoIIoan' in llic footsteps of otliers; do not undertake to lead, else one foot nia\ he trN'iii"" to aseei'tain tlu^ deptli of a (]uai;-inire and the (ttlier exploi'injj^a. Hssure. Aftei-an ascent of [)ei-1ia[>s two and a half miles, which seem more like ten, \'ou will tind youi'self on the e(lo;e of a fi'o/en sea, fi'ozen, as it were, wliile in tlie throes of a tenij»est, a, hay of storm-tossed waves solidified as hy a sii;'nal : and tliis extends as far as the eye can reach Uj* into the mountains towai'dstlie north, and se\'ei-al miles across to the hills n[»on tln^ opl)osite slioi-c. The ice is by no means clear or Krilliant, on the conti'ai\- its color Is milk\' and its foi'ination ]ione\-cond)ed, plastic, i)orous, and xieldinL!- to the tread : l)esides which it is l)esnieare' should look back at tlieir little tim' ship, floatiiiii; like tlie M(ti hf f ■; > :' s ,,s ■ i " ' !' ■i ■ • *i •. 1 . > '1'^ '1 ;''! ' , : Jl \i Jill. if ^i; ' ,Ji • -;j • '■^1 1) ' '■ '"■' : I ! I, » ' 1: 1 A i 1 htiL. i ft) ii , ' I iMTifaiwaaraaaiLit. , im mi ,■ ^, . ■v^ ClLVrTKU XI. MlElwK was no liuiTv to 1h' u|) jiikI otV on Sunday niorninu', .lune sili. Wlien I awoke we v.eiv still lyin^- nt anelior in front of tlie glacier, and I was told l»y my fellow-} »assenovrs that an immense sliee of the wall had yielderi,uht, new -reen surface^ to the u-l front was presented, entiivly free from tlie snowdrifts which I ha:i I' . \ \ \ . 1; ! i \ to last t lie slii]> for all ]iiir|)(»>cs mil il she ret unicd aLi'aIn in two weeks, A couple <»r l)i)ats were lowered r.iid niaiiiKMJ witli sailors armed with picks, jiooks, and axes; tliese men first sliape(l tiie ice while in the ^^■atel* and elio[)pe(l away the crusts (»!' sn(»w, the l)locks heino" then liauled on l)oard and lowered into the hold. It was near noon wlien we l)ei;'an to turn our i>acks on this lake of tin' LCods and steamed aloiiii' the shores of Scidniore Island. A moi'e perfect (hiy never slione from tlie heavens; tluM'e Avas not a s[)eck of clou<.l any- wliere ; [)oets and painters, educaJed in the foi;'s of L()n(h»n, wlio N\rite al)()Ut and paint tlie sunny skies of Italy, nevei' saw sucli an atnios[)liere as tliis ; the air was wai'm and 1)alm\-, tlie hreeze invin'ofatinij:, and the l.tosom of the deej) blue sea here and there Ix'jew clh^d with the emeralds, opals, pearls, and tur(pn)ises that had fallen from th(i nM'eat to^\■(M's of ice w hich now recei\ed our sad farewells and our hopeful piomise to r(4urn. On our I'ig'ht, loom U[) the wonderful i^'airweather i-ange of White Mountains, which (\a[)tain Carroll had held in reserve foi' us until this aus[)ici()us moment. The farthest })eak is Mt. Fairweather, hoastin^' an altitude (Mpial to ^^t. I>lanc, of over ir),()()0 feet ; a little closer to us is A[t. ('rillon, reachiiiL:' towards heaven almost 1(),00() feet; and nearer still, Mt. LaPeroiise, ll,-')00 feet, — all connected 1)\- a lonij; chain of lesser ones, forming an immense i-aiige ])er])etually c(>^ered with suow of the purest wdiite. On our left is Scidmore Island elad in midsunnuc!* verdure fragrant witli straw- berries and wild tlowei's, and musical with feathery ^- LAKi- >v- /■///: cons. lOi soiii;-; in front, tlie ever [)ljici(l ocean, wliose marvel- lous transparency attests Its depth; and tlie whole anij)hitheatre bounded h\ a circle of majestic liills clad in their royal i)uride. I wish J couhl renuMuher the beautiful words with which the Rev. Dr. ^^iifaiiy likened it to the gh)rious portal of a futuiv life. I do i'emend)er that a gentleman standing near me remarked *' I did not l>elieve (to(1 ever made any thing so beauti- ful as this," to which I involuntarily re[)lied, but i am sure not irreverently, " I did not believe that Tie rr>//A/." I shall never again experience such a day {is tliati I'he same sight undei" the same favorable conditions would hardly again impress me as did the startling novelty of this iirst view of it. And to think that it has existed for thousands of years, and the present decade hasl)een tlie first to see it. Pi<-tui'e to yourself all that you can recollect of the Hudson, the Danube, and the Rhine ; carry your mind away up into the fiords and rocky coast of Norway; ])ut the little Swiss im^r ^^■e are tie(l up to a long wluu'f, tlie gang-plank is tlii'own out, and tlie same old procession m(>ves out ; tliis time to visit tlie Alaska Conipany^s gold mine (commonly called tlu^ 'J'l'eadwidl Mine). »Iolni Treadwell, a San Francisco l>uildei', ]>()Uglit this ])roperty in 1S81 from a ])rospector, of wlioni a fail- estimate may be formed In the fact that he NNas known onl)' as " French Pete." Tlie price A\'as^400, and for some time sul)se- (pienth' it was operated as a placer iuin< the character <»f <»''e \'isil)le 1 -y. i a7u told, what is scientiiically known as decomposed (piai'tz. Treadwell sold part of his interest to others at a larg(i advance; and to-day this (piarry of gold produces an income of halt' a million of dollars every year. From our fellow- passenger, ZsVv. Bernhardt, I gathered the information (foi* I don't know a thing about mining) that it is what is called a h)w-2:rade ore, and owini>' to the im- mense water-power in the vicinity, the ])roxImity of the ocean, and the fact that there is no exj)ense of H .■aii-:.*./*.*. -^ -A WIIOI.E CJLAKRV OF i'.^)\A). ""^r 164 / W'OMAX'S TRIP TO ALASKA. 1^ . fc If! ) 1 > fi ;i ft , 1 ' t 'j: ; 1 ! 4) sliaftiiiL;' ;iii(l (umiclliiii:', it costs less X\\\\\\ two dollai'S })er toll to produce tlic luillioii IVoiii tlic rock, niid tliat six liiiiidrcd tons nic ^workcd cacli t tind any, and were taken into the mill, where two hundred and ('(H'ty staiii})s, as tliey are called, are hammering like so many sledge-hammers, luakiiii'' such a noise that \'ou litc^'allv cannot hear yourself speak, and creating suc.i a vibration that you dance around like those bits of cork with horsediair legs which children plav with on the drum of a [)iano. One gentleman exclainuNl as he emergetl : " That is the first place I have ever been \vhere my wife can talk to me without making me liear/' (Of course h<' did not refer to me; if lie had I would have made mvself felt.) Ilavinu' seen everv tliiiiii" of interest at tlie mine, ex- eepting the gold ingots, tliey having all Ikhm) shi[)ped a^vay in a j)revious steamer, we moved on to Juneau, a coui)le of miles distant, passing the " IVar's Nest ''and one or two other gold mines which are as yet in embryo. Juneau, like Sitka, is nestled at the foot of a ranges of sheltering mountains. As I ap[)roached it, \ wondeivd wliat would become of the adults if the small ])ovs slioiihl take it into their heads to bombard them with snowballs from the to[)s of the mountains, which a])ru[)tly rise two thousand feet from the end of every street. I consider Juneau as prettily located as any city T liave ever seen, and when the rich fields of o'ohl Nvhich surrouiul it are deveh)])el' C/iilifoniia will 1)(' icpc.'itcd ill this vicinity; the place is full of sju'ciilators and pi'(>s[u*c'tors, many of the latter having good ''clainis" for sale, but at very high j)rices. The owners seem to ha\'e unlimited cositidence in their " finds,"' and are certain that tliey will get theii' pi'iee !)>' th(^ exei'cise of patience; but in the meantime they lead an improvident, from hand to mouth, idle kind of a life; yet I am told that if they were content to part with their ownership to capitalists who would agrei^ to ex[)en(l money foi' develo[)ment, and reserve a share of profit for th(^ pre-em])tor, it is believeloration and exj)ei'nnent. The streets of tlie town seem to foll<»w the (ndches or ravines, and thti archit<'cture is exceed- ingly primitive. Then; are three or four interesting shops at which may be i»urchased every known Es(pii- niaux curio, and two or three wliere may be seen an excellent collection of sable, marten, lynx, silver-fox, and other furs. The signs indicates that the traders are not wed«b'd to s])ecialties, but keep a stock of varieties always on. hand. One of them, of which I took a note, read as fodows : " Whipsaws, potatoes, new onions, carrots, and wall-tents." I spent a considerable portion of my time in the store of Messi's. Kohler ct James, who, T believe, are the snccessoi's of the Northwest Trading Company. Here T had Jin op[)ortunity of witnessing the system of l)arter and trade carried on between the Indian hunter and the white trader. Upon arriving in town with the skins the red man visits every shop and trader before he parts with his supply, and he who is finally the highest bidder gets it ; when the bargain is consummated the Indian receives in payment a num- ber of blue or red tickets, which are taken l)y the store-keeper in exchange for such conmiodities as he \ ^J .* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^/ ^ V #> '<'\% fe f/, % ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 l^ IIIM 1^ "ff 1^ 12.2 1.8 U IIIIII.6 /. <^ ^ /a ^/ IS^^M J. > > > ^^ A JAJ.SVvV/. may ref^uire to curry l».'U'k to liis riniuit liomc, per- haps soinewliere near tlic licad-Avaters ol* tlie Yukon. Fi'oin tliis store I carried oil* some ])eautiful fill's at most reasonable rates, and lio[>ed to be the possessor of a mueli-covete(l sal)le rui;' of tlilrty skins, l)ut failed to con- vince tlie trader tliat mv valuation of it \\'as a just one. In fact, the c)nly regret I carried with me from Alaska was that \ had not given what was aslanl foi' this rug, but my informa- tion then was to the effect that prices were F'[)ecially ])rep;u"e(l for tourists, which, 1 run now convinced, is not the case, cei'tainl v not at the store of which I s[)eak. Just as the ship was leaving Juneau I determined to hurry back and [)urchase it, but I was admonished bv the Cai)tain that (.i-^'time and tide wait for no man," nor woman either, so I sim[)ly just gazed at that shoj) with a melan- choly and rueful countenance, and the increasing distance, I assure you, lent the view no enchantment. (I ought to say here in a parenthetical whisper that the dny I returned home to New York I was surprised to iind that dear coveted robe spread out upon the sofa in my library. ) Before leaving Taconia we had T)een handed a printed programme of a "native dance, by tlie renowned dancers of the Thlinkit tribe of Alaska Indians, under the management of I). Martini, Ai.\sK \. n-Rios. {/\(h^(i//c/ I'v Author. wm IMI r\ NATIlli IXPfAX IWXCrS. \G() the B.-mnim «>f Alaska, aiid Tliecelebrated Takou Cliief, Y(tsh Soosh, liead vh'wi of one of tiie iii(»st wai-like tribes of Alaska, l)ut have succuiiibed (sic) to the iiiilii- ences of eivill/atioii. Admission si. Children 50 cts. The i)erforniaiK'e will romnience inunediately after the arrival of tht excnision steamer at Jnnean, Alaska." When we arrived, this Alaska Barniim, wearing a high st()ve-pi[)e hat, in company with Vash Xoosii himself, not \n the garb (►f a warlike Indian chief, bnt in that of a (piiet gnardian of the pnl)lic peace, commonly called a policeman, met ns at the dock and begged to inform ns that the performance had been p()st[>oned until two o'clock, and they did tliis with an air of people who seemed to think we had come there simply to see their " ixreatest show on earth." While this ceremony was taking place a savage noise of human voices and locating of (Irnms came from a long tent on the beach, which, of course, we recognized as the jtlace of performance. Very few of the passengers w(M'e willing to be Innnbugged by the man with the high hat and the policeman, yet our little [)arty, winch, by friendships created on the toui", might now nund)er eight or ten persons, resolved to " take it in," as one of the gentlemen ex[)ressed it. AVe went ; we were not " taken in " ; those who faile<] to go were the oidy ones who were cheated, and they cheated themselves. It was a remarkable performance — pictures(pie, bar- barous, unexplainable, and unique. The theatre^ itself was a long tent, with a jdatform cui'taine(l off by the coimnonest white nmslin, rows of ])iiie benches for l4 ,i I70 J IIVJ/.IX'S TRIJ' TO ALASKA. « (, i, i seats, and a litth^ dressiiig-rooiii in tlie rear. The andience consisted of twenty-one persons wlio ])ai(l one dollar eaeli, while the performers nnmbered abont tliirty men, women, and children in every imaginal)le garh, fi'oni the nltra-a])ori^iiial to that of tlie present time. Tlie tent was insufferably wai'm and f^niellfid, the ghii'e of sunliglit througli the thin canvas intense, so that the use of parasol and lavender salts was indispensable; the stray Indian s(piaws and their off- s[)ring sitting around the tioors were i'e[)ulsi\-e ; never- tludess, with all its unattractive suri-oun(bngs, I would not liave missed it. There was no humbuix about the dramatis j^c'rso^Ke, the w^ardro])e, or the implements, and, therefore, I pi'esume, none about tlie authenticity of the dances themselx es. Two or three of the men, clad from neck to feet in skin-tltting white kid (much soiled), were most graceful specimens of pei'fect anatomy and agility; one or two of the women were (piite attractive, but others were hideously painted, horribly shaped, and were either semi-idiotic or under the iiiHuence of ItoocJiinoo (though I saw no evidence that any of them could pi'ocure li(pior in the town), ^len there were with the torso of a u'iant id the lower lind)s of a dwarf, giving them a miserably awkward i»:ait. The women all resendjled the lowest caste of Chinese, but with coarser and broader faces and. huger features; some of them with faces painted entirely black as a com[)lexion preservei', others colored onl}' across the ui»[)ei' portion of the face, indicating widow- hood, and all looking the saddest specimens of indif- J ;4 If A XA TIVE INDIAN DANCES. v/i fereiit wretchedness, so ))eiu,ulite(l ms not to reJilize the aeo;ra(hition, misery, and tiltli of tlieir existence. I was specially moved to i)ity l)y a little girl al>ont nine years old, evidently a half-1)reed, a truly pretty child, with beautiful eyes and tine features, a little gypsy creature, who sat in "a filthy calico dress, her only garment, and ii hrio'ht red handkerchief across her black matted hair:''th(Mndustry of her little fingers tohl the story (,f the lack of care of which this neglected ])it of humanity was the victim; and in all her s(pialid lone- liness my mothei- instincts went out to her, and I wished with all mv heart that I could have savt^l her, ],ody and soul. The printed " Progrannne '' of the dances announced the following: .< y„,/,._\-„,,/,-An ancient \\ii of the eagle's breast. Tlie dance connnenced by a \"eiy slow forward iiio\'ement of the body, the pi-ogress made ])eing n<»t more than an inch at each step, and winle the whole anatomy was ke[)t in constant motion tlie \\\ principal featnr<' of it wasa jei'ky, ^^^ forward mov<'ment of the head, a throw iiig out and di'aw- inu' backoff liechin, as it wei'e, and a coi'- respondinii' liftinu: of the shoulders; this, of course, agi- tated tlie eagle's down in the crowns, and in afewminntes tin' en tire tent, stage, and auditorium was . " -- a sno\\-stoi'm. As the dancei's became j'-om A odak hv , viss M. n. Bra.h.) w^'imied to th(Mr iil,li kl ijlf'i;: I ilVi '^. ^m Ifii «■ x.i /y/V: ixn/AX daxchs. t73 work, wliicli was iiiniiifestt^d by the fVatlu^is coinpU'tely covei'inii; tlieir perspiriiiii; +*uc*es, giving tlicin a Santa Clans expression that was vei y f nnny, tlu'ir legs ])egan to loosen, and tripped acadenee not nnliketlie old-fasliioneJ Virginia break-down, while the totem-sticks, paddles, sal- mon-hooks, knives, and implements of warfare were tlonr- ishe tlionght, and the looks of disdain, contem|)t, hate, rage, and tender love would have been a])preciatello\ved us, Mr. l*olicenian Yash Noosh having informed the spectators that it was to be a permanent institution, and I hope it may pi'ove so. It was my good fortune to be able to ])urchase thti totem-pole which conspicuously figured in the evolutions, but 1 su[)pose it has siuce been replaced by another. .s.-'- im CIIAPTKU XII. UK ])rev{il('iice of ict^ in hucIi Lii'ge (|uaiititit'S ill (ilacicr P>ay iiuide it prudent that we sliould not risk the entrance of Takii Inlet. A« Captain Carroll ex[)resse(l it, "the ])eople up here nuisL have luul a hard winter." Besiiles which, this being the Qifem''.^ first trip in these waters, it was not an appropriate time to experiment as to whether she could navigate the nar- rower channels. In fact, it was pre- dicted l)el'ore \ve left Tacoma that she was t(»o big for the service, an opini(.n which she has since very success- fully disproved. At the head of Taku Inlet, after a sail of tifteeu miles, there are to l)e seen three very supei'b <»iiit of llic cxciii'- sioli I'outc, Ix'ill^' mIjon*' the r»l) " of l;ititil(l('. The scene aloiii;' tlie entire route is in keepinj^- with th.il which lias framed our joui'uey since wc h'ft N'ictoi'ia. Passinn' tb(^ Auk and KaijU' L;'hieiers on our rinlit, we pause foi- a wiiih' in fi'ont of tlie Davidson (iK-iciei', wliich meets tlie eye on tlie left like a iniLi'lity I'ivei" I'ushin^ thi'(»UL:'h the mountain i^'or!j;es to tln^ sea, and madly emptyini;' itself into the ocean at the foot of a dense foi'est, 'Idiis body of ice is as (>M'a(*eful in f(H'm as the Muir is heroic in colossal statui'e. It is nearly three niile^ wide at its uiouth and sIo))es dowiiw ards fi-om an altitude of twch c hundre(l feet, openinn" <>ut towai'ds the sjtectatoi' like the spi'eadiuii' of a fan. Pyi'amid Ilai'lxn-. <- // /■(>///<, \s nu ex(juisite l)it of mountain sceeery, not unlike the Hud- son near West Point, thouu'h few of the peaks are less than three thousand feet hiu'li. It is nearly daik when wv tui'U ai'ound, and, haviuii" to reti'aee our stej)s o\ ci' tlie same course for several miles, we unanimously aij^ret^ to pay to Sleep our d(d)t for the many hours borrowed from hei' in the past tlii'tn^ niiihts. Kee[»ing to tlu' eastern ehannel around Admiralty Island we, of course, did not stoj) at Ivillisnoo, mu(di t(. our rei;'i'et, but the Captain pi'omised in comjxMisation to n'ive us a surprist^ in a day or two if the conditions favoi'ed it. Killisnoo is an interest in u" station fi'oni the fact that hei'e is a lariz-e manufactory of the Xorthwest Trading Company for producing fish-oil and (bying codfish, the latter said to ''ar excel the sanu^ arti(de caught and pre- served bv the Newr^Mindland tishermen. The natives I I 'i il 1 o 7i ( .■'/A- 78 ./ irojr.i.v's TRIP TO ai,aska. of tliis place .'I few ycni's .mi;'(> tlircatciKMl \y\ iiiMssjicre \\w. wliitcs ill i-eveiiii:<^ '"•' t'"' ac<"i:le, floatimji: from side to side and encii'clinsj: us with the sweep of his i^-race- ful motion foi* many miles imtil we reached the open ^aUyy^ mmi F/inn/xc 'I'/fr. ir//.i/./is. 179 bay, nnir(l OntMUorninu: we were very much sur[)rised l»y the appearance on the surface of the water of sheets of some salmon-colore(l substance, for which It was not possible to account. At first we supposed it to be sawdust iloating out from the mcuith of some river; tlien aii'aln it mii^^ht ])e salmon-spawn, yet the well pro- poi-tioned ei^^g was not tliere. The sailors told us it was whale foodi but that was all they 1j <>f To])ehl northward bound, we saw large schools of it pift'wWiW'f *i*v^' ' mm i.So ./ IVOJ/.IX'S /A'/V /() ALASKA. ^^}i M i| ::■. \i \ wli.'ilcs «:()iii!4- sti'.'iiirlit for this food w'itli \\(»ii(l('i'fiil instinct. A iri'c.'it <'lVoi't was made to in- duce ( "aptain Carroll t<» i-nn u|» into IJutc Inlet, hul at tliis lie dicw tlic line; lie had never e.\- jih»i'eitous pei peiidicular eiiiht thousand feet. In fact, eveiy >('a!' de\tdo])S some new featui-e of t his jj^lorious ti'ip, pro- diicinii; a IVnci' t<) I'etui'U to it, wiiicli has ])ossessed me e\(*r sinc(^ I .stepjted asjioie at Tacoma, after tw(d\e of the most restful aii^^.M.,H ■r„„.,.,.s l«.|,i..a ns. an.l wviv sriapin.,' tlio clj^.'s "I 1|" ,„.J,if„M)nn,laslsla,„l. W,. kn.sv tlmt Mw al,lv- ,.,,„„„.,„ ,,„, „,„„.. -l,ut notiau,^ of tl„. kM.a •. w-. .te..n-a aircM.t lor FoH SinipsoM itsHf, « luuv w,- atriv.a i„s, l,..|-o,v smtsH. (.l,,wl,ata|.ity w. '-'"';.' ' " n,,.,,. „ f.w Itours caHi,.,- ; wl.at a s|aeua,a lu. ,1 lor our ,..„,„„,,, !■„, I, is tl„. l,on,. ol- tl." tot,.u..,„. .■ aua ■■ ,v..n lv|..' ol- lu.lian life- au.l .■ust.uu, c-,v,l./.ea au. s.va'....' Ko.1 S-unpson is in Uritisl, Col.nnlna ana ll,„,t:,l„. IWtisl, tla,.: As,.arlyaslS-Jl,tlu. Unas.m B.V C.unpanv, wliirl, was tl,. inn,f,.on.t,;a successor ,,/Uh. oraul or ('Inulvs 11. to his .ousin I'nnr. Uupert, „■,•„„; |,i,„ ,.x..lusiv,. ri-bt of ...xploration ana settle- ment' on tin. N'oHl, A vi.'an ,-..nti,n.nt. estahhsbe. the i».st of Fori Si.npson, giving it tin. name ot :^|^ i«. / iro.i/.i.Y's I Kir ro alaska. ir; < i. ' W\ - 1 pi! : '_■ S' 1 i 'i T. W B ■ ■ fiM . f! M I ' ' vt f|: iJ its ])iv,si(l('ii<. 'rih'i'c ;!!'(' two h.'isiioiis ,'ui look awd'ully like (^ook's toui'ists wanro\-emulpit, a ii;reat contrast to the (ii-eek cliui'ch of Sitka. I )ui*inLi' the past winter there hal(^ t(Mii)»st<)iui ImmI (as with us) with the thr 1 KHIH'S iiaiiu* uiK 1 auv(.r tlH- !• that is in the eai thin •th 1) lu utli, or that is in the waters under the earth r m n le •hildreii tohl us that the animals repn tlie olden time, hut were now III 11 Mited existed 11 lnirieV I ,.jits of the villa-v; It IS nia( le of sea- wee( h aiK I )rouii; lit a sp wi 1 when well dried is converted into soil)). 1 th me, Imt only to look at. the xillaii*^ have been, claimed from a life of 'cinu'ii home wi 4il III Tlie people who are s thin the last thirty years, r harbarism ma rked l)\ atrocities the reel th itals of which are blood-ciirdlinL:'. When tli( tirst missionary Ml William Duncan arrive( I from Scotland, he 1'ouikI Hi 1^' 1 ih 1 l^fif ■ 1 ;^'r 184 J /rcX]/J.V.^ r/vV/^ TO Af.ASKA. f 1; 1 i 1 I ' 'I V . tlieiii ,'il)S()lntelv uiideT the iiiHueiicc of the Sli.'iniMii. Tlie Slijuiiaiis \\er«^ of two classes, man-eaters and .\'. 1S5 Mil. Ik- nth to Lcll, rid ^ was dyiii^' in (nu' of tin* liuls, we entered ; not tVoiii cui'iosiiy merely, hut in tlie lh»|)e that we iniglit [)er- ]ia[)s render liiii service. Alas, it ^^-as too late. Il(^ lay on a Maiiket on the floor, surrounded hy half a (h>/en women of all am's tret('h«'<] u[)on the u"i'<»uiid like as many seals, and life was eb])ini;' [teacef'ully away. We s[)(d\e to the women, who simply glared at us with a daz('(l expression, l)Ut made no reply. At tlie (h)or, as we were n'oiim' away, \\(* met an old s(piaw, prol»al)l\ tlie cliieftaiirs wife, lahoriiiii' ii[) tlie steej) hill, stall" in hand, and a load of l>lank<'ts on hei" hack (l)lankets are the eiiirency of her jteople): she must have heeii ninety years of aij,e, and when she reaehe 1/ which knows no \-ent and tinds no relief,'' /o mm i>i/i fj-diy ■^*C' ^ t^i' ^,i>^ I ' :■ I 11 .1' ' i ?i:f II'' i* It I If 1 1 ,!•' B I i, 1 1 1 if- '^ ipi''. ■ ! (IIAI^TEH XIII. II EN we I'et limed to the ship it was ten o'clock, not l)y tlie light of tlie moon, but in another of those gh)rious sunsets Avhich nearly always closed our days. Some of our party said it was the most gorgeous sunset they had ever seen, l)ut, to tell the triitli, I was so satiated with the la'and and heauti- ful that all my powei's of comparison had departed. I I'ememher, though, that the entire ocean and the heavens, too, were lit up with red and golden shimmering lights, A few miles from Fort Simpson is the settlement of Metlahkatlah, where dwell the pilgrim Indians wlio fled under the guidance of their Moses, William Dun- can, from the atrocities and harharic life of the formei' place in 1802 and founded a town which is a model of civilization and <»;ood i>"overnment. Their constitution is a Avritten one, and exceedingly l)ri('f. It is a dis- avowal of vices and an avo^val of virtues, and reads as follows : " 1st. To give np their ' Alilied ' or Indian deviltry. 2d. To cease calling in coujurors when siclv. od. To i86 1 METLAUKATLAIL 187 cease -amhlin-. 4t1i. To cease -ivin- .-uvay vroiuMty for nisplav. 511.. To cease paintin- tlicir laces, (.tli. To cease arinkin- int(>xi<-atin- drink. Ttli. To rest on tlie Sa]>l>ar.. Stli. To attend religious instructK^n. Mtl. 1\. sen.l their cliildreu to school l^Mh. To be clemily. 11th. To be indn Prions. 12th. To ])e peace- ful l-'Uh. To be liberal and honest in trade. 14tli. To"l»uild iieat houses. ir,th. To pay the village w ." The population of >b-tlahkatlah may be two or three thousan.l-T was unable to ascertain the exact iigures,— Hud the principal industry of the place is a s.tlni(>u can- iierv, which is a joint-stock company, the sto(dv of which 1^ iield bv the natives and pays handsouie dividends. The young men are taught useful trades and appren- ticed' to those who have become ].rotici(Mit. All the c.luirches, schoobliouses, and dwellings are built by the inhabitants, and the women have learned to weave and to spin The sanctity <>f the uiarriage vow is strictly observed, poly-amy is unknown, and children are well c-U'ed for phvsicallv, mentally, and nmrally. It is entirely the product of the English Church Missionary Societv and their fearless representative, :\rr. William l),i,^.,;„. Most of this good work has been accom- plished in the last (piarter of a century; and the field is still lai'ii'e for similar undertakings. Todes('Tibe tlie excpiisite and awe-inspiring scenery of the next two davs as we retraced our steps south- ward, homeward iMHiud, is beyond the power of my pen or ton<"ue. It must sutfice if T say that from dawn nnlil dark' each dav there was not a moment when the 1 88 A irOM.lX'S TRir rO ALASKA. t ' ' m f'li.. I , '? pi ■ I 1 , ii' ^1 siirrouiidintr.s did not constitute n, cli;u'iiiiii!i; L'H id scape, fit for tl) ' easel of the most famous artist. At no time was tlie slii[) in a s[)ot tlie view from w lii<*li did not amply i'e[)nv tln^ trip across the continent. X;inaino, on Vancouver's Ishuid, was oiu' next lialt, and lieiHi we remained until the shi}) was re-co.*ded from tlie celebrated mines at this place, a process Avhicli oc- cii})ied an entire aftei'iioon, affoi'ding the young men of our ship an opportunity to be vampiislh'd l)y the "Na- naino nine" at based)all. These mines were recently « the scene of a horrible calamity, I'esulting from tlu^ cai'eless use of a lain]) by a Chinese minei", in which one hundi'ed and eighty lives ^vere lost — making forty- one widows and one hundi'ting to prevail npon the fish to bite; the few nnlu(d\ei'run ^vith gi'ouse. Next morning we de])ai'ked once more at Victoria, where we parted with our friend Mrs. (i., who had 1- dBM i M P? -i PI •♦».; ♦' » "I '• i ( '» 1 ri 1 ' 'H % I' i vi Hit ^i ! f. > ,. )' 1 : 1 '1 . , i ■' t L 190 / JJ'dl/.l.V'S 77\V/' 7VJ .//../.VA*./. n<»\\' itmcImmI lioiiic, Idit wMs williiiLi', she s.-iid, to fcjH'.'it the trip ;it ;iiiy liioiiiciil. W'r, of (•«mii-sc, to<»k lillicli at tlu! " Poodle 1)<>l:'," ami tlicii tli-oxc to \S(|uiinault, \h\vv. oi' four miles distant, \\ here arc the ii;()Voa.tini;' grounds. It was a lo\(dy di'i\'c, coinniandiiii;' a n'raiid view of the hay and the far- <»ff < )lyni[)ic Mountains. It was election day in N'ictoi'ia, and this gax (; tlie gentlemen of our ]»ai'ty an oiipoi'- tunit\' of studNim-- the new Australian system, which iHMjuii'es that each voter, Itefoie de[»ositing liis l)alh»t, shall shut himself u^t in a confessional ])ox, and tiglit tlit^ political cam[)aign out all l»y himself: and, having satisfied his conscience, ^^■ithout extraneous intei'fer- ence, he is jtei'mittiMJ to di'o|> his ticket in the 1m>x, aftei' having niarkility that he declared in advance ho\\ he ^vas going to \<)te. So much foi' the secrecy of the l>.Mlh>t. ( )ne colored man interested us witli the story (»f hi> ai'rest for illen'al Notiui:" many years aii'o, Ixd'oi-c the war. It appears there was then a re(|uirenient that all American citi/ens sh(»uld l»c natui'alized hefoi'e voting. This man had \\v{\ to I>ritish Columltia fi'om slavery after the Dred Scott decision had declai'ed that a sla\e was /mf a citi/en of the Tnited States, and the \'ictoria court decided that the re(|uirement did not at)ply to liim. The gentlemen of oui' ]>ai'ty tliought tliin ([uite a cause (uJlhrr, and made a note of it. The trip up Puget Sound was again full of interest, though I J. •t X i. A If > »^ n o X a (A i m UJ2 A iro.ir.i.v's TRir ro m.aska. i\ \a 1 •' i J I (»iily a iTjicritioii, ill ;i mild rorm, of thai ('X(|iiisitc* l»l(*ii(liiiL;' ol* land- and wattT-scapc Nsliicli \\v had en- joyed For tht^ past week. At l*oit Tow iiseiid we icsled for a few hoiiis until (he (•iistonidioiise otHeials haassenuei's who would not Lj,ia(lly lia\ «• turne(| round and faced ai^'ain to the northward, if tlieii' several en^'a^'emeiits \\(»ul(l lia\(' permitted. As for myself, I was l)oiini'in}j;s, in the midst of the i^'avest season \\itliin m\ memor\'. I am surrounded }>\ man\' dear friends and l»\' acMiuaintances • « 4 I wliom it is a j>ri\ile«i-e to know. They have given me a most attentive and interested hearinu" ^vlleneveI' I Lave taken occasion to speak of my tri[) to Alaska, and it is a satisfaction to feel that the\- realh w ant to see my im[>ressionsand ray pliotogra^jlis publislied between tw^o covers, ^^]lat I haxc seen, \(>u and tlie\ inav see. Tliive " 4 i:/-:.\']'Of. 193 .:. I) ,„„„1,,,1 .,,,,1 lifiv .Inllars rui.unt Im- umuv pr<.l.tMl»ly siHMit |'..rasiimiMM- vm-ntioii, aiM tliis is iik.iv than it ts I'loiil New ^^.l•kt..tlu'iri«'< Tl cos i a Kivncli cnstMiiu', a niii;', <»r hiai'c^lct, uiid yet the iiiciiKMy of such a tiii* will nut live tlieiii all. The pleasure is iiiUi the fact that those; w apt to he ladies aiH sons whose i^<)<>( h eiihaiieed too l>y ho aie yoiii' iVllow-i)asseMi,^ers aiv ... I oviitleiiieii, hy v.'Ii'h'Ii f """••i" P*'"- I ln-eediiiL;' naturally tends to a regard leiil (',„• the coiiiiort of tlieii' o.nipanions ; and ainon^i,^ tl Nou will tindinenand wcMiieii, youn-- and old, ofhrioht iiitellii;'enee, who, devotiiiL-' their time to travel, aiv ful of Fact aiK artists oF renown 1 Miiecdot* — scientists, savants, authors, and hi. I ( ) \ Entrc lions, lie Friendship, e<»ni Fr,,iii all parts oF the woi have heard oF and seen more than meiieiie'' on an Alaskan trip, which las ripene( 1 into mutual pledges " foi (>■( )( »( 1 or For had. iniu lid especially of one wealthy and h-travelled Benedict, who was accustomed to coii- for l)etter, For worse, a irratii late 1 limself tliat Mav lliiivu, liy (ili-,t'rv;Uiiii 1, 1 111 ;l lillU A sin rk- lifi- 's nci liurllien l)ut who fell a vi( tim in Alaskan waters to femah? cliarnis, in furs and ulster, resultiiii:- in A L'tlll (imtinnc trad "f eteinal a ..fi s- imiUiai ]i>in( Ut iif llitir 'uin and, ha])pily, there are no reorets. J If vou take this trip as T Inivt tak en It, vou wi 11 return home w ith a theme which will force you to »->- ^ ■. 194 A Jf7).lA/.\".S- 77x7/' 7V) ./AJ.VA'J. '1 ;t a m fii' 1^1 ill 1 li li:,! IX! if i,^ Hiiciu'V and ('l(M|ii('ii('(' ill s])it(' of voiii'scll', am! willi a Idii^iiig to I'ctuni I'oi' f'lii'tlier (explorations in lliis wonderland, wliicli will Ix* tlic liojtc, of your life. Voii will nicntally })liotoiz;i'ai)li pictures wliieli will presej've tlieir lights and shadows loiiijj after those oi tlie Louvre and the Vatieau liave faded into an indistinguisliable mass: tlie niounlain-walled channels of British (■olum- ])ia, tlie ocean canyons of the Sitkaii Archipelago, the deep ti'anslucent watt'rs of t\w, inland tioi'ds, the snow- peaks of the })eautiful Falrweather range, and the gigantic and a|>[)aHi]ig Muir (ilacier, are scenes s() iiii- [)a!'alleled that they can ne\er he foigotten ; and the life of the Ksciuimaiix of vesterda\ and to-dav, his vicen and his virtu(\s. his ignorance aid his inttdligence, his yearning and his gi'atitude, ^\'ill gi\-e you occasion to thank (rod that lie has spared y