SPECIAL JSrOTIOE. Under the provisions of a recent Resolution of the Dominion Parliament granting one himdred million acres of land in aid of the construction of the Canada Pacific road, the following described lands are withdrawn from homestead entry and pre-emption, and held for sale as under : 1. A belt 5 miles wide, adjoining the Canada Pacific line on either side, at $6 an acre. 2. A parallel belt of 15 miles, one half in home- steads at $2.50 per acre, and the remainder at $5. 3. A further adjoining belt of 20 miles, at $2.50 and $3.50 per acre respectively. 4. Another belt 20 miles wide, at $2. 6. An outer belt of 50 miles, at $1 an acre. Terms op Sale. — The terms and conditions of sale of these lands are as follows : — Four-fifths of the purchase-money, with interest at six per cent, per annum, are to be paid at the end of three years from date of entry, and remainder in six yearly instalments. Railway Lands. — Of these, which comprise the whole of the first belt and one-half of all others, the terms of sale are : — One-tenth in cash at time of purchase, and balance in nine equal instalments, with six per cent, interest on the unpaid purchase money. LANDS OF PLENTY. BRITISH NORTH AMERICA FOE HEALTH, SPORT, AND PEOFIT. A BOOK FOR ALL TRAVELLERS AND SETTLERS. BT E. HEPPLE HALL, RS.S. LONDON: W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATEELOO PLACE. TORONTO: JAMES CAMPBELL & SON. 1879. (All rights raaerved.) / ; ^,. TO THE BiaHT HONOURABLE SIR MICHAEL E. HICKS-BEACH, Baet, M.P., HER majesty's PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OP STATE FOR THE COLONIES, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BT THE AUTHOR. PEEFACE. Op books professedly on Canada there are a great number. Of works which treat of Canada there are, on the other hand, comparatively few. Belonging to the latter category, and interesting to the home reader for the amount of useful information they contain rather than for any intrinsic merit in the works them- selves, the number is still less. How m mj of the latter class there really are, it might appear invidious on my part to state. Whatever that number may be, I have striven to make this little volume worthy of being added to it. As its ▼1 PREFACE. \ A title indicates, it is intended for the use of those who journey to or through the New Dominion for purposes of colonisa- tion and settlement, as well as for the guidance of that larger number who go thither either in search of health or sport, or simply for pleasure. Hitherto Englishmen have known more of the North German Ocean or the Mediterranean than they have of the North Atlantic or the Gulf of St. Law- rence, and for every British traveller who has seen the Yosemite, Mount Baker, the Saguenay river, or the Canyons of the Columbia or the Eraser rivers, there are hundreds who have visited Lucerne and the Rigi, or made the acquaintance of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples. Yet neither Switzerland nor Italy possesses the elements of the grand and sublime in Nature on so vast and imposing a scale as Canada; neither do they pre- sent so many or varied attractions PBEFAUE. Vll to the tourist in search of the pic- turesque, as may be witnessed by the observant traveller in many parts of ^ / Quebec and British Columbia. Ontario, Manitobah, North-West Territory, and British Columbia are unquestionably the most attractive fields now open to the British settler in Canada. They consti- tute our " Big Farm," so to speak, " across the pond '* ; and form a region grand enough for the seat of a mighty empire, and a fitting home for a homo- geneous and powerful people. We shall know them better in the future than we have known them in the past. Much of what is recorded in the fol- lowing pages has already appeared in various periodicals on both sides of the Atlantic, from the pens of others as well as from my own. The whole is now presented for the first time in a con- densed and continuous form for popular use. Vlll PREFACE. The Map is a new feature. I venture to think it will prove a welcome addition to my original design, which was that of a smaller work at a cheaper cost. It has been prepared, with considerable care, wholly from official sources, and cannot, I think, fail, if intelligently used, to greatly enhance the interest and utility of the work. At a period of almost unparalleled depression through- out the kingdom some safe outlet for our pent-up and but half employed population is urgently needed. My little craft is launched to point the way — if it may — to fresher fields and smoother waters. SunnysidSf Sept. 15, 1879. ■ > MflP COI^TEISTTS. Page British North America .... 1 CHAPTEE I. Dominion of Canada. — Its divisions, area, and population. — Cities and chief towns. Climate. — Land system. — ^Its mines, mine- rals, and fisheries. — ^Its sporting-fields and pleasure-resorts, visited and described . 5 CHAPTER n. Quebec. — Its climate and soil. — Divisions and productions.— Stock-farming. — Centres of colonisation. — Tourist resorts, &c. . . 22 * / • X CONTENTS. CHAPTER ni. Page Ontario. — Boundaries and area. — Climate. StocV - raising. — Dairy - farming. — Free Land G-rants. — Conditions of settlement. —The "Garden of Canada."— Toronto and Hamilton described. — Georgian Bay and Lake Superior. — Routes to the West . 32 CHAPTER IV. Manitobah. — The "Prairie Province." — A British grain-centre. — Divisions. — Indian treaties and " reserves." — Rivers and means of communication. — A " Lacustrian Paradise." — Climate. — Sport. — What the Homestead Law has done. — Winnipeg, past and future. — Crops. — ^Routes, &c. . 64 CHAPTER V. North - West Territory. — Keewatin. — Gimli and the Icelandic Settlements. — Divisions. — Climate, seasons, «fec. — The Saskatchewan country. — The " Fertile Belt." — Lands for settlement. — Rivers and lakes. — Sport. — Settlements, &c. . 86 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. Pagre Bbitish Columbia. — Position, boundaries, and divisions. — Climate. — The gold region. — Vancouver's Island. — Its coal deposits. Its mountain and shore scenery. — Forests. — Mounts. — Baker and Hood. — Puget Sound. — Jaw-breakers. — The salmon fishe- ries of the Fraser and Skeena rivers. — Game, sporting, &c. — Routes, fares, &c. — The Canadian Pacific Railway's proposed termini. — Esquimault and Victoria as naval coaling and outfitting stations . . 107 APPENDIX. Dominion lands, homestead rights, colonisa- tion, &c 137 Land scrip and reserves .... 149 Emigrant fares and transport . . . 153 Government Immigration Agents in Canada 155 Government Immigration Agents in Great Britain and Europe .... 156 Lands now open for settlement in Manito- bah, &c 156 XU CONTENTS. Page Eailway lands — Order in Council respecting the settlement of 160 Moose-hunting — the hunter's pocket dic- tionary 162 Across the continent from ocean to ocean . 174 Distances, fares, &c. — General summary . 190 Panoramic Map. — Canadian Overland Route, embracing the Provinces of Quebec, Ontario, Manitobah, North- West Territory, and British Columbia. Map of parts of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec, and Prince Edward Island ; showing the Intercolonial Railway from Halifax, N.S., to its intersection at Riviere du Loup, with the Q-rand Trunk Railway, Sea Shore, and Fishing Grounds. ¥ 7WT" Map of paiis tiT the Pnmnrea of NOVA SCOTIA, NEW BRUNSWICK QUEBEC* PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND iShem'ng Ihr FHOM HALIFAX M.S. TO ITS INTERSECTION AT RIVIERE DU LOUP with the GllAND TKUNKBAHA^S^ .Siw Shtfiti & HiverRshing Groundn (uxomiMi^AirufHoflimlv' h^YAla^Aa Hall 1879. T ■•' -r. LANDS OF PLENTY. mm BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. To the mind of the geographer^ or the eye of the prospective traveller — as delineated on maps and charts, and illustrated in geographies — British North America may be fitly described to be all that portion of the North American continent bounded by the Atlantic ocean on the east, by the Pacific ocean on the west, by the United States on the south, and by the Arctic ocean on the north. But such a de- scription of the Canada of the present day is but an outline portrait of it, and gives only the faintest conception of its vastness and resources. Charts, atlasses, and statistical tables, though interesting in themselves and valuable to the student, fail to convey to the popular mind either just or adequate ideas of the countries they embrace and are intended to represent. 1 2 LANDS OP PLENTY. This is especially true of Canada. In the maps it looks a mere terraqueous maze — a laby- rinthine waste of rivers and lakes froia which escape would seem all but impossible^ and in which tradition teaches us life is well nigh in- supportable. How opposite such a presenta- tion of it is to actual fact the reader need not now be reminded. Much of the popular mis- conception entertained in regard to Canada is, no doubt, due to ignorance ; quite as much, or more, however, is certainly due to prejudice. Stretching from ocean to ocean, with its mag- nificent prairies and its heavily- timbered forests, its exhaustless fisheries, and its limitless mineral wealth, it forms a region grand enough for the seat of a great empire, and a fitting home for a powerful people. Within the present de- cade this magnificent country has taken a gigantic stride forwards. The addition of British Columbia, Manitobah, and of the great and fertile North- West territory to her former extensive and valuable domain has greatly multiplied her advantages as a pro- ductive field for colonisation, and enabled her to cope — and to cope successfully — with the United States in the work of western immigra- BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 8 tion and settlement. These splendid accessions of territory form a " new departure " in her history as a political confederation. As was well remarked by Lord Dufferin, the late Governor- General, in a recent eloquent speech, " Manitoba may be regarded as the key-stone of that mighty arch of sister provinces which span the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It was here Canada received the afflatus of a more imperial inspiration, and felt herself no longer a mere settler along the banks of a single river, but the owner of half a continent, and in the magnitude of her pos- session, in the wealth of her resources, in the sinews of her mraterial might, the peer of any power on earth.'^ It is, indeed, only when regarded as the future home of unnumbered and numberless— because yet unborn — colonists that we can measure the extent and capacity of such a country, or adequately estimate her wealth and power in the near future. For purposes of settlement it embraces upwards of two million square miles of agricultural and timbered lands. Of these, the cereal-producing tracts — comprising what is known as the Canadian 1 ♦ 4 LANDS OF PLENTY. €( wheat zone " — occupies fully one-half; an area equal to 600,000,000 acres. If we ex- cept Labrador on the east coast, and Alaska, a narrow strip of infertile and inhospitable territory on the western or Pacific coast north of Vancouver's island, which belongs to the United States, the whole northern half of the American continent is now embraced within the Dominion of Canada. CHAPTER 1. DOMINION OF CANADA. The Dominion of Canada, as now constituted — first by the voluntary confederation of 1867, and subsequently under the Act of 1873 — embraces eight principal divisions, called the British North American Provinces. Each province has a government and parliament of its own. Divisions, Abba, and Population.* Square Miles. Population. Ontario .... 107,780 1,620,850 Quebec . 193,355 1,191,516 Nova Scotia 21,731 387,800 New Brunswick 27,322 285,777 Prince Edward Island 2,173 94,021 Manitobah 14,340 12,228 North-West Territory 2,750,000 28,700 British Columbia 220,000 50,000 Indians (36 tribes) in 187( J 102,358 Population (1784) • • • 166,266 Estimated population (181? '9) . 4,250,000 • Census £1871. 6 LANDS OP PLENTY. Each province is divided into counties, and each county ir to townships. Money is calculated in dollars and cents, as in the United States, and not in pounds, shil- lings, and , pence as in England. The dollar, equal to 4s. 2d. sterling, is the standard. The coinage is silver, but gold is the legal tender. The notes in circulation are mostly of the deno- minations of 1 dollar and 2 dollars. Cities and Chief Towns. — Montreal, To- ronto, Quebec, Halifax, St. John, Hamilton, Ottawa, London, Kingston, Cobourg, Belle- ville, Windsor, Stratford, Cornwall, Goderich, Prescott, Brockville, Paris, Port Hope, St. Catherine's, Guelph, Sorel, Sherbrooke, Truro, Frederickton, Charlotte- town, Victoria, Winni- peg. Government. — A limited monarchy, framed on the principles of the responsibility of ministers to Parliament, is vested in a Go- vernor-General as executive, appointed by the Queen but paid by Canada, and a Cabinet of thirteen members, who form the Queen's Privy Council. Each Cabinet officer presides over a department. DOMINION OP CANADA. These are known as the — 1. Govornor-GonerarB Office. 2. Privy Council Office. 3. Crown Law Office. 4. Public Works. 6. Minister of Interior. 6. Secretary of State. 7. Marine. 8. Militia and Defence. 9. Finance. 10. Caetoma. 11. Inland Re Vienna. 12. Postmaster- General. 13. Agriculture and ArtB. Immigration. The seat of the Federal Dominion Govern- ment is at Ottawa, on the Ottawa river. The Parliament consists of the Queen, an Upper House of seventy-eight members appointed by the Governor for life, styled the " Senate '* ; and a Lower House of two hun- dred and six members, elected for five years, styled the " House of Commons." Sessions are held annually, and the Governor- General has power to dissolve the House before the expiration of the five-year term. The several provinces have lieutenant- governors, paid by the Dominion, and sys- tems of responsible local government, formed on the model of that of the Dominion. The counties and townships have also their local governments or councils, which regulate their local taxation for roads, schools, and other municipal purposes. 8 LANDS OP PLENTY. Exports and Imports. — ^The total values for the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1878, amounted to— exports, 79,323,667 dols. ; im- ports, 93,081,787 dols. The Public Debt (Ist July 1877) amounted to $139,354,726 Repayable in London „ in Canada Net debt per capita Interest ,, . . $112,133,578 27,221,148 3111 1-10 Climate. — The public mind, though less abused than formerly, is nevertheless still greatly prejudiced in regard to the climate of Canada. Furs are suggestive of frost and snow, and in the opinion of some people these are worn the year round in Canada. The summers and winters are equally decided, and in some sections are rather trying to those accustomed to milder and more equable tem- peratures. On the whole, however, they are remarkably dry, bracing, and healthy. It has been urged, and justly, that the climate of a country which perfects the production of the most valued grains, fruits, plants, timber, and animals — including man — cannot be other than a good one. That of interior Canada is greatly influenced by the vast extent of her lake waters. J - DOMINION OF CANADA. 9 The prairie region has a mean summer tempe- rature of sixty degrees, with abundance of rain. Land System. — Next to his health, the most important question for the settler in a new country to consider is the easy acquisition of land. Agriculture now forms the chief indus- trial interest of the Dominion. Next to this rank the pioducts of the forest and their manu- factiu-e. As every intelligent and thrifty immi- grant will, sooner or later, become a landowner, it is important that he should, as soon as pos- sible, make himself acquainted with the system of buying, holding, and improving land. The laws of primogeniture and entail are abolished, and the transfer of land is cheap and easy. British tenant farmers, anxious to change their condition of leaseholders to that of owners, have in Canada^ more particularly in the prairie country, a wide and promising field for investment. The drainage system of the Do- minion is threefold, viz. eastward to the At- lantic, westward to the Pacific, and northward to the Arctic ocean and Hudson's bay. In the provinces of Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia, the grant to the Canadian Pacific Railway alone ex- 10 LANDS OP PLENTY. cepted, the lands are held by the several pro- vincial governments. Dominion lands are surveyed in blocks of twelve miles square. These are subdivided into four townships of six miles square each ; these again into thirty-six sections of one mile square, or 640 acres each ; and each section into quarters of 160 acres each.* Dominion lands to the extent of 640 acres may be bought at 4s. 2d. sterling per acre, cash down.f Unoccupied Dominion lands will be leased to neighbouring settlers for cutting hay, &c., but not to the hindrance of the sale or settlement of such lands. Improved farms (advantageous for tenant farmers newly arrived and unacquainted with the country and its re- quirements) may be purchased in almost every part of the Dominion. Such farms are either partially or entirely cleared of timber and under cultivation, with dwellings and farm- buildings on them, and are therefore at once available for agricultural purposes. The prices * For full particulars see "Dominion Lands Act," in the Appendix. t See Appendix for list of Government agents. DOMINION OF CANADA. 11 of such range from £4) to £10 per acre, ac- cording to productiveness and situation. The utmost caution should be observed by settlers in the selection and purchase of land. Free Grants.* — Canada is the only British colony, excepting Queensland and West Aus- tralia, that grants land free to settlers. Quarter sections (160 acres) of untenanted Dominion lands — in all the provinces — are made to any person who is the head of a family, or to any person, not the head of a family, who has attained the age of twenty-one years, on con- dition of three years' settlement from the time of taking possession and the payment of the entry fee of 10 dols. {£2. Is. 3d.). Pastoral farming, which includes stock- raising and dairy-farming — next to agriculture — is the most important industry of Canada, both soil and climate being favourable for its prosecution. The high quality of Canadian dairy produce is now everywhere acknowledged. Ontario and Quebec offer perhaps the best * As the system of procuring free lands varies slightly in some of the provinces, the points of difference will be found noted in the respective chapters. 12 LANDS OP PLENTY. openings for those wishing to engage in this branch of business. Manitobah and the North- West territory will, however, offer increased advantages as soon as railway communication is established through it. The quality of the wool, mutton, and beef raised on the grasses of the north-west prairies is even finer than that produced in the eastern provinces and town- ships. The foot and mouth disease is unknown throughout the Dominion. Mines and Minerals. — Canada having an extremely diversified geological formation, is rich in minerals. The following ores have been worked : gold, silver, copper, lead, iron (mag- netic, hematite, chromic, and titanic), coal (lignite and albertite), assatite (phosphate of lime), graphite, mica, barytes, asbestos, slate, gypsum, petroleum, rock salt, antimony, iron pyrites, and manganese. The total exports for 1876 amounted to 3,731,837 dols., or to rather more than three-fourths of a million sterling. Fisheries. — The fisheries constitute an im- portant and lucrative branch of Canadian industry, more especially in the sea-board pro- vinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and British Columbia. Upwards of fourteen hun- ..;' ■::»-■: ■v%-ni-'>?,^;i'-: DOMINION OP CANADA. 13 dred vessels and twenty-two thousand boats are tlius engaged; and the total yield for 1876 was valued at eleven millions of dollars. Education, Religion, &c. — There is no State Church, and the utmost religious liberty prevails throughout the Dominion. The means of education by free public schools, both secular and religious, are abundant, each pro- vince directing its own system. Railways. — At the close of 1878 Canada had 5,800 miles of railway in operation, or about one mile to every 690 inhabitants. Added to this there are upwards of 1,200 miles under construction, exclusive of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Lakes, Rivers, &c. — Owing to her physical features Canada possesses the most extensive lake and river system on the globe. The great lakes, Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, forming the largest and purest continuous system of fresh-water navigation in the known world, though generally claimed by and popu- larly credited to the United States, flow mainly within British territory. They embrace an area of 90,000 square miles, vary from 100 to 800 feet in depth, and from 200 to 600 feet 14 LANDS OP PLENTY. above sea-level. The lake system of the central prairie region embraces, among many smaller bodies, Winnipeg, Manitobah, Winnepegosis, Cedar, and Dauphin, with an area of 12,818 square miles, and an average elevation of 675 feet. The principal rivers are the St. Lawrence on the east, the Saskatchewan and Nelson on the north, and the Mackenzie and Frazer rivers on the west. The canals are five in number, viz. Welland (28 miles) ; the St. Lawrence System (41 miles) ; and the ChambJy, Desjardins, and Burlington bay, embracing about 250 miles upon the St. Lawrence, Rideau, and Richelieu rivers. Thus Canada possesses a continuous waterway from the Atlantic to the head of Lake Superior, a natural highway of travel, and the best, because the cheapest and heal- thiest, emigrant route across the American continent. The entire distance between Win- nipeg city and Halifax, N.S., is, however, now traversed by rail, and the travelling time reduced to four days. Telegraph, Money Order, and Postal System. — The telegraph is within easy reach of the poorest settler in the Dominion. There are three main lines, viz. the " Montreal " DOMINION OP CANADA. 15 (12,044 mUes), the "Dominion'' (7,824 miles), and the Canadian Pacific, between Fort Wil- Uam and Battleford, N.W.T. (970 miles, and stiU in progress) .* The tariff on messages to places -twelve miles and under is 15 cents for ten words ; beyond twelve miles, 25 cents for ten words, and 1 cent for each additional word. The postal system extends to every village in the Dominion. There are upwards of 5,000 post offices in addition to 278 Post Office savings' banks. The rate of postage is 3 cents for half an ounce prepaid; unpaid, 5 cents. Newspapers and postal cards 1 cent each. Money orders may be drawn throughout the Dominion except in Manitobah and British Columbia, for sums from 1 dol. to 100 dols., at a charge of half per cent. The same regula- tion applies to offices in the United Kingdom at a charge of 2 per cent., or 1 dol. on jglO. Sport, &c. — Canada has been well termed the " Sportsman's Paradise." Scarce a section or district of the entire Dominion that does not offer attractions of some sort to the lovers • The Dominion Company's lines are now operated by the American Union Company under lease for 99 years, at a yearly rental of 62,600 dols. 16 LANDS OP PLENTY. of sport. Excellent hunting, shooting, and fishing may be enjoyed in almost every locality and at any season not excepted by law. The woods abound with wild animals, including moose, deer, bears, foxes, otter, and beaver. Feathered game are found in abundance — geese, ducks, woodcock, snipe, plover, curlew, partridges, pigeons, and many other birds. The lakes and rivers abound in bass, dory, &c. Lakes Beaufort, Joseph, and St. Charles, in the neighbourhood' of Quebec, literally swarm with fish. Nova Scotia, though, according to Lord Dunraven, so nearly "settled up,'* and the moose- supporting portions of the country be- coming very limited in extent, is still perhaps unexcelled as a sporting field for large game. Vast tracts being yet primeval forest, the moose {Cervus alces) and cariboo {Cervus rangifer) are scarcely molested by the hunter.* They * To the true lover of this exciting sport — moose - hunting — we commend the perusal of a portion of a masterly and characteristic paper from the pen of the Right Hon. the Earl of Dunraven which has just appeared in the " Nineteenth Century," from which it is copied by permission. III*. 1 II Ml^wMqi I I ■■« iHSMHi I-- - - "I ■!■■■— '■■'«in^M«M|rtl»«B|*Pf<>l«iM>W.-I*nn-''?CXVUT'>'.' ITI*^ DOMINION OP CANADA. 17 are the principal large game to be found in Canada. The moose is by far the biggest of all existing deer. It is identical with the elk of Europe, but attains to a greater bulk, fre- quently weighing 1,200 lbs. and upwards. The cariboo answers to the reindeer of northern Europe, on a somewhat larger scale and with far finer horns. Cumberland county is described by competent authorities as " one of the finest moose-hunting grounds in the world." There are no private game-preserves in the province, so that all are allowed to hunt, shoot, or fish ad libitum. The close season for moose or cariboo extends from mid-February to 1st September. Within twenty miles of Halifax trout and salmon fishing can be obtained in every phase which the gentle art is capable of assuming. Shelburne, Queen's, and Lunenburg counties — the lake region of Nova Scotia — ofEer, perhaps, the greatest attractions to the patrons of " the rod and reel." The salmon rivers are mostly short, running in parallel lines to the sea only a few miles apart. The fishing grounds seldom extend more than ten or twelve miles from their mouths. Sea or tide trout, averaging about 3 lbs. in weight, commence running up 2 18 LANDS OF PLENTY. these streams at the end of June, and the best sport is to be had at that delightful season. At Rimouski, on the river of that name, fifty- four and a half miles by rail south-east of Riviere du Loup on the St. Lawrence, there is good salmon-fishing. Pleasure Resorts. — The principal and most popular resorts for Canadian tourists and plea- sure seekers lie in the sea-board provinces of Lower Canada and mainly on the St. Law- rence river and its tributaries. They are all readily reached by steamboat, or by railway over the Grand Trunk and Intercolonial lines from the chief centres, Halifax (N.S.), St. John's (N.B.), Portland (Me.), Quebec, and Montreal. From Portland the famed White Mountains of New Hampshire are distant only ninety miles, and are readily reached in three to four hours by Grand Trunk railway vid Gorham Station. Mount Washington, "the monarch" of the White mountain range, is best approached by turnpike and the mountain railway, three miles in length, from the Glen House. The city of Quebec occupies the centre of picturesque Canada. Though shorn by recent changes of all its political and much of its DOMINION OP CANADA. 19 commercial importance, it is still historically one of the most interesting and remarkable cities on the continent of North America. It is the first landing-place of a large ma- jority of Canada-bound travellers not reluctant to " step ashore " and once more tread terra firma after experiencing the " ups and downs " of "life on the ocean wave/' This fact alone will serve to render a short stay desirable. The drives in the neighbourhood are varied and charming, each in its own peculiar way. The most attractive are those to Montmorenci falls and battle-ground, Chaudiere falls, Lorette Indian village, Montcalm^s cottage. Wolf's monument, &c. A sleigh and "toboggin" party to Montmorenci in winter constitutes the " sensation " of that delightful season, and shoidd not be omitted from the visitor's pro- gramme. During the summer months (June to Sep- tember) boats leave Quebec daily for the Saguenay river, Tadoussac, Grand bay. Falls of Ste. Anne, Murray bay, below Quebec ; and for Sorel, Three Rivers, and Montreal, above the city. From Montreal the most picturesque portions of Canada and the New England 2 * 20 LANDS OP PLENTY. States of the adjoining Republic are within easy reach by railway or steamer, and furnish a series of delightful tours. They may be arranged as follows : Route I . To Lakes Champlain and George vid Rouses point. 2. Franconia mountains, Lakes Memphreraa- gog and Willoughby, Mount Orford vid New- port (65 miles). 3. To Saranac and Chazy lakes and Adirondack mountains (the sporting region of northern New York) vid Rouse's point (50 miles), Plattsburg (82 miles), Ausable (102 miles). 4. To Cornwall (67 miles), Ottawa city (the capital) (166 miles), King- ston (172 miles), Cobourg (264 miles), Toronto (333 miles). The Thousand isles form the most picturesque feature of the Upper St. Lawrence. They commence near Kingston, and extend nearly to Brockville, a distance of fifty miles. The latter town, named after General Brock, the hero of Queenstown, is one of the prettiest places in Canada. Alex- andra bay and the neighbourhood abounds in good shooting and fishing. There are few countries more splendidly watered than Ontario, of which Toronto is the capital and chief city. Its innumerable DOMINION OF CANADA. 21 lakes and streams, as well as the great fresh- water seas which form its southern boundary, abound with excellent fish, and form a very paradise to the enthusiastic angler. Good sport may also be found for the gun in the backwoods, where bears, wolves, lynxes, deer, and many other wild animals, are commonly met with. Having briefly described the prominent and distinguishing features of the Dominion as a whole and distinct dependency of the Crown, and the nearest field open to British travel and settlement, we will now indicate the portions of the vast colony which at the pre- sent time oflfer the greatest inducements and most solid advantages to those in search of health, sport, or profit. 22 LANDS OF PLENTT. CHAPTER II. QUEBEC. Area.— 193,355 square miles; 129,000,000 acres. Population (in 1871).— 1,191,516. Chief city, Quebec; population, 70,500. History. — Settled in 1586. Council of Administration appointed in 1663. Ceded to England by Treaty of Paris 1763. Constitu- tion granted 1791. Confederated in 1867, up to which time it was known as Lower Canada. Quebec is the centr^ commercial province of the Dominion, and offers advantages to small manufacturers and traders unable to compete with the capitalists of the great Euro- pean centres. The rural population thrive mainly by agri- culture and the product of the forest. ' «';.■', »-vv\-- .■ v*_ QUEBEC. 23 Climate and Soil. — The rigour of the Canadian winter has been very much exagge- rated. Its people are certainly amongst the hardiest and most vigorous. The snow, far Irom being a disadvantage, is almost as valu- able a covering as manure, and under the spring thaws the effect of the winter's frost and snow is to make the land more friable, and to impart to the soil the vigour which makes our northern vegetation so sudden and luxurious. The soil is rich, and susceptible of the highest cultiva- tion. In point of quantity and quality the crops in Quebec compare favourably with those of other parts of the continent. An instance illustrative of climate is that the sparrow at aU seasons of the year may be seen flitting about. The soil of Quebec is extremely rich, and susceptible of the highest cultivation. Divisions, &c. — There are five main centres of colonisation — the Valley of the Saguenay, the Valley of the St. Maurice, the Valley of the Ottawa, the Eastern Townships, and Gaspe. There are sixty counties and twenty judicial districts in the province. The Crown offers for sale a large quantity of land on the south shore of the lower St. Law- vy7_.T,"n-. 24 LANDS OF PLENTY. rence. Lands taken from the Crown, whether for purchase or as a free grant, are subject to easy conditions of payment or settlement. In 1868 an Exemption Law came into force, giving full and fair protection to settlers. The province has also introduced, in a limited way, a system of colony settlements, by which lots of 100 acres each, prepared in designated townships, are offered to settlers who appear to be in a position to succeed. Stock-raising. — Cattle-breeding is becom- ing quite an occupation in Quebec, and the province has sent back to England a class of cattle unsurpassed by her own best breeds. The lands in the eastern townships, " the Gar- den of Quebec,'' and north of the Ottawa, for pasturage, are of special excellence. They em- brace nearly one million acres, and are offered at from 2s. to 2s. 6d. an acre. Dairy-farming is yet in its infancy, but the active co-opera- tion and aid of the Government is giving to agriculture an impulse which must result in very important consequences to the province. Productions. — Cereals, hay, and green crops grow everywhere in abundance. The total QUEBEC. 25 quantity of wheat grown is about 2,068,000 bnsliels; barley, 1,668,208; oats, 15,116,262; rye, 458,970 ; peas, 2,205,585 ; beans, 79,050 ; buckwheat, 1,676,078 ; com, 603,356 bushels. This is the produce of about 242,726 acres. A total of 128,185 acres produces 18,068,323 bushels of potatoes, of turnips 812,073, and of other root crops, 597,160 bushels. An acreage of 1,211,953 produces 1,224,640 tons of hay and grass, and of clover seed about 143,535 bushels. The melon and tomato grow and fully ripen in the open air. Indian corn, hemp and flax, and tobacco are grown in Quebec, and yield good returns. The extent of the farms in Quebec average about 100 acres. These farms in the older settlements are worth from 2,000 to 4,000 dols. a-piece. In the new settlements a partially cleared farm may be purchased for about 200 dols. The settler can also purchase the Crown lands at a cost of between 30 or 40 cents. (Is. 3d. to 28.) per acre, or have a free grant along one of the colonisation roads. Manufactures, &c. — The geographical situa- tion of the province, added to its great water power and cheap living, and the fact that its 26 LANDS OF PLENTY. ports are situate at the foot of inland and the head of maritime navigation, make Quebec a field where manufacturers with some means can do well. As the province is the leading mercantile and financial section of the Do- minion, so is it declared to be the leading manufacturing centre. The principal articles manufactured in the province are cloth, linen, chemicals, soap, boots, cotton, and woollen goods, and all descriptions of agricultural imple- ments. In looking at the figures representing the export and import trade of Quebec, it will be well to consider its importance as the cen- tral province and assorting market of the Do- minion. The export trade in 1876 amounted to 37,876,815 dols., and the import trade to 35,035,091 dols. It may be asserted in all fairness that the banking and financial insti- tutions of Quebec are the chief institutions of the kind in Canada. The shipbuilding industry of the province is well known, and so, too, is the manufacture of timber; but a summary statement of the exports will, perhaps, give a better insight into the commerce of Quebec than mere words. The figures in 1876 stood thus: — QUEBEC. 27 The Mines yielded . . 365,546 dols. The Fisheries . . . 714,534 „ The Forest . . . 11,047,082 „ Animals and their produce 7,487,027 „ Agricultural products . 8,672,358 „ Manufactures . . . 2,389,446 „ Miscellaneous articles . 225,802 „ This does not include com and bullion. Education, &c. — ^The separate school sys- tem prevails to the utmost satisfaction of all creeds and classes in the province of Quebec. Primary education is obligatory in so far as every taxpayer is bound to contribute to it a moderate sum. To poor municipalities 8,000 dols. per annum are allowed. There are three normal schools in Quebec, two Roman Catholic and one Protestant, where school teachers are trained. There are nearly 4,000 primary schools, attended by about 20,000 pupils; about 300 secondary and model schools, at- tended by at least 40,000 pupils. Besides these there are special schools, lyceums, com- mercial schools, and schools of agriculture. These number about 150, and are attended by 3,000 pupils. There are fifteen superior 28 LANDS OF PLENTY. schools in Quebec, where the classics are mainly taught ; twelve are Catholic and three Protestant. The Roman Catholic schools owe their existence to the generosity of the Catholic clergy. The professors are nearly all eccle- siastics, and are content to receive a remunera- tion of 40 dols. per annum. This explains the low rate paid by pupils for board and tuition, which is about 100 dols. per year. There are three universities in Quebec, two of which are Protestant and one Roman Catholic. The Ca- tholic University of Laval was founded in 1854 by the Seminary of Quebec, and is maintained, without State aid, by that important college. The religious and charitable institutions form a pleasing feature in Quebec. With the earlier missionaries came the Soeurs Hos- pitallers to care for the sick, and the Ursuline Sisters to attend to female education and assist in civilising the Indians. By the side of the Roman Catholic institutions have grown up and prospered those of other religious com- munities, between which and the Roman Ca- tholic institutions no rivalry exists except in doing good. The province devotes a large sum to the support of charitable institutions. QUEBEC. 29 Time to Arrive. General Directions. — The intending settler should arrive in Quebec early in the spring. Unless he is going to join friends already settled in the pro- vince, or have some capital, the agricultural labourer should not leave England after August. Farm labourers should proceed at once to the agricultural districts. The intending settler should consult the emigration agent at Quebec for the provinces, who will give him full infor- mation on all points, and direct him as to the various centres of colonisation and labour. Wild Lands may be purchased on the fol- lowing conditions. One-fifth of purchase- money on day of sale, the remainder in four equal annual instalments, with interest at 6 per cent. The purchaser must take pos- session within six months from the date of sale, and must reside on the land for two years. During the first four years the settler must clear and cultivate ten acres for every hundred acres so held, and erect a habitable home at least sixteen by twenty feet in extent. In the case of FREE GRANTS the exceptions are trifling. The emigrant who enters upon the occupation of an uncleared farm must expect that eighteen 30 LANDS OP PLENTY. months, or a year at the very least, will expire before he can get a return from his land. Such being the case, it would be highly imprudent for a family of five or six persons to settle on a lot of wild land, unless they possessed at least 200 dols. While he is clearing his own lot, the settler will find occasional work, either in working for a more fortunate neighbour, or on a colonisation road, or by hiring for a month or two during the winter season with a lumber merchant. Fish and game are very abundant, and with these, at certain seasons, the settler may furnish his tables. The cost of clearing, when it is done by contract, is about 10 dols. per acre. A skilled farmer who has not the means of purchasing a farm, or settling at once upon uncleared land, will find many proprietors prepared to lease their farms, or to farm on shares. The English emigrant who selects as his home the Eastern Town- ships, or land north of the Ottawa, will find himself in the midst of his own countrymen, and in sections of Canada which, in every respect, are unsurpassed on the continent of America. The chief attractions and points of interest QUEBEC. 31 of this province, and indeed of the whole St. Lawrence valley, for the tourist and sports- man, are readily accessible from Quebec and Montreal as centres of travel. They are (in Quebec) the citadel of Cape Diamond, Plains of Abraham, and Wolfe's monument, fortifica- tions, gates, &c., and Montmorenci and Chau- diere falls. Both the latter are a short distance from the city. In and round Montreal the chief objects of interest to visitors are the Victoria tubular bridge, the mountain, cathe- dral of Notre Dame, and Bonsecours market and quay. The Saguenay river. Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, Murray bay, and Cacouna, and the Thousand islands — the former 130 miles below Quebec, and the latter 130 miles above Montreal — afford two of the most pic- turesque tours in the province. 32 LANDS OF PLENTY. CHAPTER III. ONTARIO. A LAND OP PLENTY FOR GBAIN, STOC;:, AND DAIRY FARMERS AND FRUIT GROWERS. Ontario — " the beautiful/' as the Indians in their significant and sonorous language called it — is the name by which the western portion of the old or settled portion of Canada is now officially and generally known. Prior to the Confederation in 1867 it was familiarly spoken of as Canada West, Upper or Western Canada. It is the most populous and wealthy of the seven divisions of the Dominion, and occupies the fertile country to the north of the great lakes Ontar Erie, Huron, and Supe- rior. The river Ottawa, the principal tributary of the St. Lawrence, and the centre of the timber industry of Canada, separates it from the pro- ONTARIO. 88 vince of Quebec on the east. As an evidence of its growing commerce, it may be stated that Government customs are collected at no less than fifty-five ports in this province. Its pre- cise boundaries to the north and west have long been^ and still are^ in dispute^ and until they are definitely settled and officially an- nounced the exact area of the province cannot be stated. For general purposes, however, the usually accepted estimate of 121,000 square miles will be found sufficiently near the mark. This gives it an area about equal to t^at of Great Britain and Ireland. Climate. — It may as well be admitted in the outset that as regards climate Ontario suffers from the prejudice under which her sister province Quebec, and indeed the whole of Canada, has so long unjustly rested. Not, however, to the same extent. The cli- mate is no doubt greatly and most favourably influenced by the great bodies of fresh water to the south and west of it. Though its average winter temperature is unquestionably much lower than that of the British Isles, yet the cold of an Ontario winter is " more bearable,'* as the popular phrase expresses it, than that 3 84 LANDS OF PLENTY. of an English winter, and is, moreover, pro- bably less trying to the aged and infirm. This is greatly owing to the comparative dryness of the Canadian atmosphere. It will doubtless sound strange to English ears to be told that the keen and protracted frost and snow which would be so much dreaded on the east side of the Atlantic, is welcomed as a real blessing in Canada. In England such visitations paralyse out-door labour, block up roads, or render them dangerous, and carry privation and misery into countless homes. In Canada they directly promote one of the greatest national industries, namely, lumbering or timber-getting. This important work can, in fact, only be carried on effectively by their powerful co-operation. Frost and snow make good " sleighing," and that means everywhere splendid roads, rapid, easy, and pleasant tra- velling, brisk internal trade, and enhanced social enjoyment. The heaviest loads can then be drawn with ease, even over swamps and streams, which at other times are quite im- passable. The Ontario farmer attempts no out-door work which can be very materially interfered ONTARIO. 86 with by the wintry elements, which are his servants rather than his masters. Frost and snow are not only found to be the best road- makers, but their general effect on the soil is beneficial. Frost pulverises the earth even if it sometimes kills the young wheat ; whilst snow is found to be a good fertiliser as well as a pro- tection to plant life. The period of extreme cold, or " cold snaps " as they are called, seldom lasts more than two or three days at a time. It is followed by much longer intervals of moderate frost, with a bright sky overhead, and a carpet of dry snow underfoot. Occa- sionally there are disagreeable thaws in the course of the winter, which break up the roads and block business. Sometimes the winter is unusually mild and open, with little or no snow. This, for the reason already mentioned, is always a great loss to the country. In short, the winter season in Canada has its advantages and compensations, as well as its disadvantages and drawbacks ; and its inhabitants, natives as well as immigrants from the British Isles, gene- rally regard it as the pleasantest part of the year. Many of the latter greatly prefer it to the winter of the " old country." The other 3 ♦ 36 LANDS OP PLENTY. seasons have also their peculiarities in Ontario. The spring awakes suddenly in April, and speedily merges into summer. During its short career vegetation makes marvellously rapid progress. The summer has extremes of heat, but, like those of the cold in winter, they ai'e usually of short duration. Aut\imn, or the "fall" season, embraces September, Oc- tober, and November, and is usually the most delightful season of the year for tourist and sight-seeker. But whatever may be thought of the summer and winter ,.,tremes of tempe- rature, there is no quesition of the healthiness of the climate of Ontario. Productions. — Another test of its character may be found in the range and quality of the productions of this province. Nearly all the ordinary agricultural and horticultural pro- ducts of the United Kingdom are raised in perfection. The white wheat of Ontario took the first prize at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and still maintains its high reputation ; whilst Ontario-grown barley is held in the highest estimation by the brewers of the United States. In fruit generally, especially apples, it is not excelled by any other country. A writer in the ONTARIO. 37 New York " Graphic/' in describing the fruit exhibition at the Philadelphia Centennial, says : — " Probably the finest show of various fruits is made by the Fruit Grower's Associa- tion of Ontario, Canada. This exhibit occu- pied two tables extending the entire length of the hall, which was about 200 feet long, and comprised not less than 1,480 plates of apples, 200 plates of peas, 290 plates of plums, 173 plates of grapes, 26 plates of peaches, 86 plates of crab apples, and some 20 plates of miscel- laneous fruits,'' &c. Maize, tomatoes, melons, and many other products requiring a high summer temperature to bring them to ma- turity, grow in abundance and perfection in nearly every part of the province. Stock-raising, &c. — Much attention has t)f late years been paid by the leading farmers of Ontario to the breeding of superior stock, and with very marked success. The largest herd of shorthorns in the world is said to be at Bow Park in this province, and their breed is being gradually spread over the country. Only a very few years ago the experiment of shipping dead meat and live cattle to Eng- land was commenced, with some misgivings as 38 LANDS OF PLENTY. to the result. Fortunately it turned out favour- ably, and the trade has ever since been rapidly increasing, and has already attained large di- mensions. For example, the imports into the United Kingdom in 1876 were 2,767 cattle, 2,607 sheep, and 332 horses ; in 1877, 7,412 cattle, 6,325 sheep, 298 horses, and 372 pigs. For the first half of 1878 the figures were — 8,010 cattle, 4,281 sheep, 1,041 pigs, and 787 horses, thus showing an enormous and rapid growth in this important trade. The ship- ments of Canadian beef during the present year have averaged six and a half million of pounds weight monthly. These figures, which are quoted from the " Live Stock Journal " of 5th July 1878, refer to the returns for the wliole of Canada, but Ontario shares most largely in the credit which they reflect on the resources of the Dominion. Ontario is also a large exporter of dairy pro- ducts, besides poultry, eggs, hams, &c. Cheese factories are now established in all parts of the province, and creameries for the wholesale manufacture of butter by the most approved methods and with the best appliances are also coming into favour. It is a significant fact that ONTARIO. 39 the very best " American " cheese sold in the London market is made in Canada^ and most of it in Ontario. The export cheese product of Canada for 1877 amounted in round num- bers to thirty-six millions of pounds. Agriculture is now, and will probably ever remain, the chief attraction and staple industry of the province. The cultivation of her soil the utilisation of her broad forest lands and her rich rolling prairies is, and must long con- tinue to be, her paramount interest. Her " manifest destiny " — to use a favourite Ameri- can colloquialism — is to make meat and bread and butter for the mother country, the father- land. It is well to remember, too, in this connection that she has a School of Agricul- ture connected with a Model Farm near the town of Guelph, at which scientific and prac- tical agriculture in all their branches are taught. This institution is intended specially to instruct the rising generation of the pro- vince — immigrant as well as native-born — in all the details of western farming, and its influence is widely felt and appreciated. Timber, Minerals, &c. — Ontario is richly endowed with forests of valuable timber, the 40 LANDS OF PLENTY. \ export of which, though greatly diminished during recent years, still forms one of the main sources of provincial revenue. The timbered areas from which the best qualities are ob- tained, are found in the Ottawa valley, on the shores of the Georgian bay, and in the " back- woods " of the Muskoka district. Its mineral resources are also very great and valuable. As yet they have not been developed to any con- siderable extent, except salt and petroleum, which for several years have been produced in immense quantities and of most excellent quality. Land System, Free Grants, &c. — Of the twenty-five millions of acres of surveyed land in Ontario, nearly three millions still remain to be disposed of as free grants to settlers, under the provisions of the Free Grant and Homestead Act of 1868. The lands so appro- priated are embraced in seventy-eight town- ships of what is known as the Muskoka and Parry Sound district, situate between the Ottawa river and Georgian bay, and chiefly northward of the forty-fifth parallel.* • For routes thither viOu Northern and Midland railways of Canada, see Appendix and accompanying Map. ONTARIO. 41 Beside the above, there are twelve more townships appropriated but not yet opened, making in all ninety. Other townships will be opened as railways^ and, colonisation roads are constructed. The C p ooyg tft»"Bay branch of the Canada Pacific Railway will pass through townships in Ontario that will be open, during its construction, to settlers as free grants. Thus the domain of the poor but industrious immigrant will be open to him for many years to come in the very heart of the new Dominion. Fifty to sixty per cent, of this land is fairly good, and will grow good crops of wheat, but it is, as a rule, better adapted for the coarser grains, or for grazing purposes. The remainder of the land is not of much value for agricultural purposes, being composed largely of rocks and swamps. The country abounds with lakes, and is in many places exceedingly picturesque. The amount of land granted to the head of a family is 200 acres, and to each unmarried person of either sex who has attained the age of eighteen years, 100 acres. The conditions are that each settler shall erect a habitable house on his lot, at least sixteen by twenty feet, and reside there at least six months in the year. When fifteen 42 LANDS OP PLENTY. acres have been cleared and put under crop, the settler is entitled to a deed making the land absolutely his own. Many emigrants have settled in those districts with but little capital, and are doing well. Others have failed, partly for want of sufficient means to tide them well over the initial difficulties, or for want of capa- city or adaptability for the undertaking. Native Canadians make the best pioneers in such dis- tricts, and the old-countryman would do well to follow in his track, buying out a partially cleared lot rather than attempt to clear one for himself. In no case should a person possessed of less than £100 attempt a settlement in the free grant district. If he has more, so much the better, provided he has learnt how to em- ploy it. The Western Peninsula known as the " Garden of Canada,'^ and mostly settled and held by private persons, extends from Toronto westward to Lake St. Clair and the town of Wind- sor, opposite Detroit in the state of Michigan. Municipal Affairs, &c. — Ontario has an admirable system of municipal government which gives the people complete control over their own local affairs. The same remark ap- ■;-;;/;.•.-;• ONTARIO. 48 plies to the political institutions both of the Province and the Dominion, which are modelled after those of the mother country. The prin- ciple of responsible government is observed in all. But if there is one of then* institutions of which the Ontario people are more proud than another it is their system of public in- struction. This not only recognises the right of every child in the country to be educated, but makes ample and generous provision for the purpose. The public or elementary schools, of which there are upwards of five thousand, are all free and non-sectarian. Upwards of three mil- lions of dollars were expended in 1876 for public school purposes. The teachers are of three dif- ferent grades, and have all to undergo examina- tion before being licensed to teach. The schools are supported partly by local rates and partly by grants from the Government, which are pro- portioned to the average attendance of pupils. There is also in every town and considerable village a high school where the superior branches, including Latin and Greek and one or more modem languages, are taught. These schools are also free, with the exception of a small fee charged at some of them to non-re- 44 LANDS OP PLENTY. sident pupils. Thus the children of the poorest in the land may obtain an education that would fit them for entering a university or a profes- sion free of expense. Besides the public and high schools there are several normal and model schools for the training of teachers. Also seve- ral universities and colleges with staffs of able professors. The administration of the educa- tional system is in the hands of the Minister of Public Instruction, who is a member of the Cabinet. Religion, &c. — In matters of religion, On- tario is situated much the same as the mother country, except that there is no Established Church. All denominations are on a footing of equality in the eye of the law. Hospitals and other benevolent institutions have been established by the Government wherever there was felt to be a need for them, and are liberally supported. All villages throughout the province having 750 inhabitants may be incorporated under the provisions of the Municipal Acts, and any in- corporated village which contains a population of 2,000 or upwards may be created into a town. When such town contains 15,000 people I ONTARIO. 45 it becomes a city. The gradation of municipal and civil honours, from the position of a squatter or backwoods settler to that of a full-fledged citizen, is therefore in Canada easy and rapid. The qualifications for voters at municipal elections are freehold, household, income, and " farmer's son " ; the real property qualifica- tion ranging upward from 100 dols. in town- ships to 300 dols. in towns and 400 dols. in cities. Railways. — Much of the progress and pre- sent prosperity of the province is due to its railway system, which has been wisely and judiciously promoted by Government subsidies and by municipal bonuses. Its ramifications are wonderfully extensive for so young a country. This result has been brought about by adopting in their construction the narrow gauge of 3 feet 6 inches. Lines of this gauge can be constructed at a far less cost than those of the ordinary width, and are found to answer the purpose of a new country just as well. Manufactures, &c. — Although Ontario is mainly and essentially an agricultural country, yet its extensive natural facilities for manufac- ture have been largely, and to some extent 46 LANDS OP PLENTY. successfully, utilised. In the city of Ottawa, the seat of the Dominion Government, some of the largest saw-mills in the world are to be found. Owing, however, to existing tariif regu- lations and to the late severe and protracted depression in the United States, which for many years was the principal market for Ot- tawa-sawn lumber, these great establishments have, for a long time, been but partially em- ployed. Ontario also manufactures woollen goods, especially tweeds j furniture, machinery, agricultural implements, edged tools, sewing machines, carriages, clocks, &c. Of these the manufacture of agricultural labour-saving ma- chinery offers perhaps the safest and quickest return for invested capital. Chief Cities, Towns, &c. — Toronto, the capital and commercial centre of Ontario, and the second city of the Dominion in population and wealth, has many attractions for the plea- sure-traveller. Situate upon a level plateau overlooking a beautiful bay at the head of Lake Ontario, from which it is separated by Gibraltar Point, it occupies a position at once singularly prominent and picturesque. Its streets are broad and well paved. Its public ONTARIO. 47 buildings are substantial and architecturally conspicuous. The best general view of the city, suburbs, and surrounding country is ob- tained from the lofty spire of St. James Cathe- dral in King Street. The University, a noble Norman-Gothic edifice, the Queen's Park, Os- goode Hall, Normal School and Horticultural Gardens, Knox College, and the New Custom House, Post Office buildings, will each repay a visit. The valley of the Don, and Todmorden on the east, and New Park and Humber bay on the west of the city afford pretty drives. There are numerous hotels, but the Queen's Hotel and " Rossin " House furnish the best accommodation for tourists. Next to Toronto, Hamilton is the largest town in the province. It is forty miles distant by railway from the capital, about the same distance from Niagara falls, and is reached by the Great Western Railway from either point in an hour and a half. It has a population of nearly forty thousand, and has some pretty drives in the neighbourhood. Next to Toronto and Hamilton the most im- portant places in the province are Ottawa city, the Dominion capital, Kingston, St. Catherine's, London, &c. The Government buildings at 48 LANDS OF PLENTY. Ottawa occupy four acres of ground, and cost about four millions of dollars. They form one of the handsomest ranges of public buildings on the American continent. fVho should go, and when. — ^The Ontario Government has not encouraged promiscuous immigration for some time past, because the demand for emigrant labour, both skilled and unskilled, which was formerly so brisk, has, for some time past, been less brisk, with the sole exception of that for female domestic ser- vants, who still continue 'uuch in demand and receive good wages. Of professional men, and of book-keepers and clerks, Ontario has enough and to spare. The kind of persons who would be certain at all times to improve their position and prospects by emigrating to Ontario are tenant-farmers and others with capital, who desire to adopt agriculture as a pursuit; and persons with small but independent incomes, especially those having families to educate and set up in life. Money can be invested with perfect security at from 7 to 8 per cent, in- terest, and as most of the necessaries of life are very much cheaper in Ontario than they are in England, and education is free, it is ONTARIO. 49 obvious that for families in the circumstances referred to Ontario is a most desirable place to settle in. Food being everywhere abundant and cheap, the cost of living is low as com- pared with that of similar fare in Great Bri- tain. Rents in Toronto and other large towns are likewise moderate. Clothing, except such as is produced in the province, is about one- fourth more than in England. As to agricul- turists with capital, the inducements aflPorded settlers in Ontario are even stronger. Cleared farms, with every improvement, including buildings, can be purchased at prices ranging from €5 to £10 per acre, in the older settled districts of the province. Thus for a sum of money not greater than the present yearly rental of many farms in England a man may become in Ontario the absolute owner of the land he tills, and be for ever free from uncer- tainty of tenure and the sense of dependence on the favour of a landlord. Routes, &c. — To all parts of Ontario there is at all times ready access from British and most North European ports by the " Allan,'' " Dominion," " Temperley," and various ' sr Atlantic steam lines, by way either of Quebec, 4 60 LANDS OF PLENTY. Halifax^ or Portland, and thence by " Grand Trunk " and " Intercolonial " railways. From Toronto the still westward-bound pleasure and health seeker has choice of a great variety of pleasant tours. CoUingwood, at the southern extremity of the Georgian bay, is reached by the Northern Railway from Toronto, distant ninety-six miles, in about five hours. The route thither, as far as Lake Simcoe, lays through a fine and fertile land — too flat, perhaps, to be considered picturesque, but sufficiently rolling for farming purposes. Clumps of stately elms with noble stems shooting high before their fan- shape com- mences, relieve the monotony of the scene, while here and there a field dotted with huge pine stumps shows the character of the old crop. While the traveller is in the neighbour- hood of Toronto and CoUingwood the Muskoka Lake district may be most advantageously visited. The Georgian Bay district is em- phatically a country of forests, lakes, and rivers. The lakes vary greatly in extent, the larger ones being thirty to forty miles in length, while the smaller ones are little more than pondg, but clear and deep, and abounding ONTARIO. 51 in salmon-trout j black bass^ speckled trout, and perch. Lakes Simcoe and Couchiching are charming pic-nic resorts, while Trading lake and Sparrow lake swarm with almost every variety of fish, and aflford good duck-shooting. West of Collingwood rises a range of hills, once thickly wooded to their summits, but now showing in their seamed and scantily- covered sides the rapid settlement of the past few years. Though scarcely one thousand feet high, they are mainly noteworthy as being the highest mountains in the great province of Ontario. During the summer months steamers run through the Georgian bay vid Great Manitoulin island, Sault Ste. Marie, and Lake Superior to Duluth, calling at the various points of interest on either shore. Duluth is the eastern terminus of the Northern Pacific railway and the northern terminus of the St. Paul and Duluth railway, and its principal interest for the overland traveller centres in the facilities which its present railway system affords. For those fond of fresh- water and steamer- travel, no more refreshing or delightful trip can be found on the American continent. Lake Superior, as is well known, swarms 4 * 62 LANDS OF PLENTY. with fish, and good shooting may he indulged in at many of the steamer stations on its pic- turesque shores and bays. It is, however, mainly as a field presenting openirgs for agriculturists and stock-farmers with sufficient capital to compete for the export trade, that On- tario possesses especial interest to the English reader. Its advantages may be thus summed up. A good climate and fertile soil, cheap living, ample and inexpensive means of edu- cation, free lands to actual settlers in the Georgian Bay districts,* and an easy distance — ten to twelve days steaming, with low rates of passage — from England. For farmers, both stock and grain — espe- cially of the tenant class — it offers very decided advantages ; and for farm labourers with large and growing families it presents good openings. The Bruce mines of Lake Superior and other mining districts offer employment to a limited number of miners of the more hardy and per- severing type. Capitalists will find safe and * Full directions as to Free Grants of Land, and the means of obtaining and reaching them, will be found in the Appendix. ';< .iV ONTABIO. 53 lucrative employment for all their surplus fiinds in almost every department of produc- tive industry, and in every section of the pro- vince. To all these and many more beside, provided proper caution and energy are em- ployed, Ontario offers opportunities for the investment of capital and labour which entitle her to a proud position among the lands of PLENTY in British North America. 54 LANDS OP PLENTY. CHAPTER IV. MANITOBAH, OE, THE " PRAIRIE PROVINCE," A LAND OP PLENTY FOR GRAIN, AND ESPECIALLY FOR WHEAT FARMERS. Manitobah^ though often mentioned, and during recent years much written about, by travellers, is even now, to the general reader, comparatively an unknown country. It is the smallest and youngest province of the Canadian group, having been carved out of the vast North- West territory in 1870. Up to and even subsequent to that date it contained a very mixed population, formed of Indians, Scotch, English and French half-breeds, and a few whites. Its early history dates from 1812, when Lord Selkirk planted the first colony in the valleys of the Assiniboine, Saskatchewan, and Red rivers. After experiencing many vi- MANITOBAH. 55 cissitudes, and in fact being at one time com- pletely uprooted, the infant settlement became more firmly established in 1816, when Lord Selkirk revisited it, bringing with him a large number of Scotch immigrants. The settlers, however, continued to meet with determined opposition from the " North- West" Trading Company, for his gigantic monopoly, knowing that civilised men and wild beasts could not dwell happily together, feared the loss of its trade in furs which would surely follow the cultivation and settlement of the country, and resisted settlement to the utmost. Matters generally continued in an unsatisfactory and uneasy state, with but little intercourse between the colonists and the rest of the world, till 1870, when, as we have just stated, the aegis of the Dominion Government was wisely extended over the whole of the north-west territory, out of which the province of Manitobah was formed. The Russian Men- nonites arrived in 1871-72. The Icelanders followed in 1874-75. During the past three years, with the extension of the American and Dominion railway systems to its borders, its growth has been very rapid. Its present popu- 66 LANDS OF PLBNTr. lation is variously estimated at from 40,000 to 50,000. Of this number the whites are nume- rically much the strongest, an approximated estimate setting them at 22,000. The Indiana rank next with about 10,000. The French, Scotch, and English half-breeds claim nearly as many more. Next to these in point of number, and far excelling them in general in- telligence and material prosperity, are the Russian Mennonite settlers, who may be roughly computed at 9,000. Following these are the Icelanders, Scandinavians, &c. The whites are, as a matter of course, found scattered everywhere throughout the province, and the adjoining Saskatchewan country. For the half-breeds four townships on the Red river are reserved, and the land office is located at Emerson, near the United States boundary, one mile and a half from Dufferin, and seventy miles south of Winnipeg. Their settlements are, however, found on the Assini- boine and Red rivers in and around Winni- peg city and Old Fort Garry, and on the Stinking river. They are under the general charge of the Manitobah Colonisation Society of St. Boniface, where a building for their ac- MANITOBAH. 67 commodation on arrival has been erected at a cost of 2,500 dols. The Mennonite settle- ments or " reserves " are at Rat river, on the east side of Red river, and on Scratching river. There is also a considerable settlement, on Dufferin reserve, of seventeen townships. Al- together these hardy, thrifty settlers have ne.j'ly 10,000 acres of most productive land under successful cultivation. They are dis- tributed in fifty-five villages. Situation, Extent, &c. — Situate in the middle of the great American continent, nearly equidistant from the equator and the north pole, and the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, Manitobah occupies a conspicuously central position. Some of her citizens pro- fess to believe that the day is not far distant when Winnipeg will be the centre of British bread-stufE production, as London already is the centre of British consumption — a con- summation which, from a Manitobian or Win- nipegian point of view, is no doubt among the things " devoutly to be wished," but which the competing claims of other equally ambitious rival grain-centres serve to render somewhat problematical and difficult of attainment. It 58 LANDS OF PLENTY. is certainly a grand country for the overbur- thened and well-nigh discouraged farmers of Great Britain and Northern Europe to emi- grate to, and its future is full of what may now seem extravagant possibilities, but which the westward march of population and her own prolific soil may speedily win for her. Con- sidered in connection with its adjoining '^ fer- tile belt," it embraces about fifty millions of the richest wheat-producing prairie-land in the world. To such a country, under the in- fluence of the nineteenth century labour-saving machinery and Western pluck and energy, no result need appear impossible. More strictly defined, Manitobah proper is 135 miles long and 105 miles in width, and contains, in round numbers, 14,000 square miles, or about 9,000,000 acres of land. It is divided into five counties, viz. Selkirk, Provencher, Lisgar, and East and West Marquette. It is further divided, for legislative purposes, into twenty- four districts, each of which returns one member to the Provincial Assembly. These constituencies are as follows : — St. Paul. Winnipeg. St. James. Springfield. MANITOBAH. 69 Westbourne. Bale St. Paul. St. Vital. St. Fran5ois Xavier. Rock Wood. Lake Manitobab. Portage la Prairie. St. Agatha. Poplar Point. Higb BluflF. St. Boniface. St. Andrew's N. St. Clements. St. Charles. St. Anne. St. Andrews. St. Fran9oi8 Xavier W. Headingley. Kildonan. Treaties, Reserves, &c. — Since the con- federation of the provinces in 1867 the follow- ing treaties have been negotiated between the Dominion Government and the various Indian tribes : — Square miles. 1. (Aug. 1871) Manitobah and a portion of the adjoining territory ..... 185,000 2. (1871) N.W. of Manitobah .... 32,000 3. (1873) Keewatin 49,700 4. (1874) South of Saskatchewan river, from Lake Winnipegosis to Cyprus Hills . . 75,700 5. (1875) Territory around Lake Winnipeg . 102,000 6. (1876) Main Saskatchewan river to Rocky Mountains 120,000 7. (1877) Cyprus Hills to Rocky Mountains . 52,000 615,000 60 LANDS OF PLENTY. Under these treaties very considerable tracts, embracing some of the best lands in the pro- vince, have been set apart as reservations. In order to properly understand the land system of Manitobah and the means of acquir- ing and holding land in that province, it is necessary to inquire into the nature of these " reserves.^' It is almost needless to say that their existence has hitherto greatly retarded settlement in Manitoba proper. Whatever may have been the influence of such migration on the more adventurous and speculative land-hunter from " the States," the act of leaving the settled districts, and passing through these reservations to the new or back settlements, cannot but have discouraged the best class of old country settlers. With the rapid introduction of new capital and labour these obstacles will quickly be removed. The character and extent of these reserves may be summarised as follows, viz. : Acres. For Half-breeds . 1,400,000 „ Hudson's Bay Company 450,000 „ Railway purposes . 1,900,000 „ Mennonites 500,000 4,250,000 MANITOBAH. 61 In addition to the above, sections 11 and 29 in each township are appropriated to the Indians and for educational purposes, so that less than one-half of the province is immediately available for settlement under the liberal provisions of the Homestead Act. But this grievance will undoubtedly right itself ere long. Indeed, the half-breed reserves have already been brought into market, and others must shortly follow. The future progress and prosperity of the province demands that these fine lands be thrown open for public settle- ment. Lands which will produce everything good for food, either of man or beast, and practically feed a kingdom in arms, cannot long be held from market and cultivation. Steam ploughs, reaping, sowing, and thrashing machines will soon solve the labour problem which has so long vexed the soul and tied the hands of the enterprising Manitobah yeoman. These far-stretching and silent reserves will, under the stimulating influence of the Cana- dian Pacific Railway, quickly become the scenes of an active and profitable industry, the abodes of happy husbandmen, and in time, there is little doubt, the homes of the prosperous landed 62 LANDS OF PLENTY. proprietors of the province. Intending land- buyers and settlers in Manitobah should bear in mind that sections 8 and 26, being Hudson Bay lands, and sections 1 1 and 29, being school lands, are specially reserved, and therefore not open to the public. Internal Communication. — Added to fer- tility of soil and special adaptation to the growth of cereals, more particularly of wheat, Manitobah and the adjoining territory enjoys facilities for a most extensive system of land communication. It is magnificently watered by rivers and lakes which, from their great length and depth, afford easy and rapid means of transit and transport throughout its entire extent. Foremost in importance is the Saskatchewan river, with its two branches rising in the Rocky mountains, which cross no less than 18 degrees of longitude, and afford about 1,400 miles of steamboat navigation. It flows in an easterly direction, and discharges its waters into the north-western end of Lake "Winnipeg. The Red river, which, having its source in Minne- sota, not far from that of the Mississippi river, runs almost due north, and, after affording about MANITOBAH. 63 four hundred miles of steamboat navigation, also falls into Lake Winnipeg, but at its south- em or opposite extremity. The Assiniboine is an important affluent of the Red river, and with a few improvements coiUjd be made navigable for steamboats for about'^^OO miles. It drains the great plain between the Saskatchewan and Red rivers, and joins the latter at Winnipeg. Lake Winnipeg, 264 miles in length, and Lakes Manitobah and Winnipegoosis together being of about the same length, and con- nected together by navigable channels, give another 600-mile stretch of navigation. East of these are " Lake of the Woods," Lake She- bandowan, and Raine lake. West of these are the Mackenzie, the Arthabaska, the Frazer, and the Thompson. Speaking of his recent tour through the province, the late Governor- General, Lord Dufferin, remarked : " For the last eighty miles of his voyage the traveller will be consoled by sailing through a succession of land-locked channels, the beauty of whose scenery, while it resembles, certainly excels the far-famed Thou- sand islands of the St. Lawrence." "From this lacustrian paradise of sylvan 64 LANDS OP PLENTY. beauty we are able at once to transfer our friend to the Winnipeg, a river whose exist- ence in the very heart and centre of the conti- nent is in itself one of nature's most delightful miracles, so beautiful and varied are its rocky banks, its tufted islands, so broad, so deep, so fervid is the volume of its waters, the extent of their lake-like expansions, and the tremen- dous power of their rapids/' Climate, &c. — With regard to climate, Manitobah presents the same positive features as the older provinces of Canada, viz., bright, clear, warm weather in summer, and decidedly cold in winter, but very clear and dry. Neither the extreme heat in summer nor the severe cold in winter is found to be so trying to the constitution as the ever-changing and humid atmosphere of England and Ireland. Snow disappears and work begins on the land in April. Crops are harvested in August and September. Wheat is the best crop, the soil being specially adapted to its production. The average yield is thirty bushels to th acre. Manitobah and the north-west country are unquestionably among the finest wheat-pro- ducing countries in the world. Barley is a MANITOBAH. 65 favourite alternate crop, and oats thrive well. The chief characteristic of this province is that it consists almost wholly of prairie land, yield- ing, in its wild state, most nutritious grasses. It is therefore admirably adapted for pasturage and grazing purposes as well as for the culti- vation of wheat. There is none of the tree- felling, log-burning, stump-extracting, land- clearing operations to be gone through, which occupy so much of the backwoods' settler's life in other parts of Canada and the United States. Once at the plough, indeed, there is no limit to the extent of land the settler may break up, except the limit imposed by lack of time or capital, or his own sense of moderation. It is now a generally accepted fact, in this section of Canada at least, that farming is a most pro- fitable pursuit in itself, and that it pays, and pays well, to make land. Of forests proper to the Canadian standard there are none, but trees of various vieseriptions, affording timber sufficient for most farming and domestic purposes, grow on the banks of the many rivers. Much of the lumber d build- ing timber used in and around Win^iipeg is 5 66 LANDS OP PLENTY. still rafted from Pine river and from Red Lake county, Minnesota. Flax is very luxu- riant, and hops grow wild. Cattle can be win- tered without grain. The usual yield in hay is from three to four tons per acre, the cost of cutting and curing which ranges from 1 dol. per ton upwards. Minerals. — Thus far minerals have not been discovered within the boundaries of Manitob .h, but rich depositee of iron ore and gold have been found on the slopes of the Rocky moun- tains. As to coal, the large beds of the Sas- katchewan river appear practically inexhaust- ible, it having been ascertained that a belt over 200 miles in width underlies several thousand square miles, so that fuel need never fail the home, and there will also be ample supplies for the requirements of the Canadian Pacific Rail- way when that road is completed. Sport. — In the way of sport, Manitobah is perhaps less attractive than some of her sister provinces, yet there is game enough and to spare. The prairie land abounds with prairie chickens, and in the spring and fall months ducks and geese are found in immense numbers. At times large numbers of pigeons are to be found. MANITOBAH. Q7 In the forests are different kinds of deer, in- cluding the moose and the elk. Rabbits by the hundreds. The Canadian partridge is also very numerous. Of the fur-bearing animals there are the fox, beaver, otter, mink, and musk-rat, and a few stray black bears ; the buffalo is plen- tiful in the North- West. The large lakes, rivers, and streams abound with white-fish weighing from three to five pounds. The rapid growth and present prosperity of Manitobah may be attributed to three causes, viz. : first, the extraordinary fertility and adapt- ability of its soil; second, the liberal home- stead law in force ; and third, the Dominion Lands Act.* The soil, it may safely be stated, is as fertile as any the sun shines on in this world. It consists of from three to four and in some parts even nine feet deep of rich black earth, mostly organic matter, and is of inexhaustible richness. The subsoil is mostly clay or gravel, which would be considered a fair soil in Ontario. Wheat of most excellent quality has been grown upon the same fields * The complete text of tlese two important measures will be found in the Appendix. 5 * 68 LANDS OF PLENTY. for twenty to thirty years, without variation, and without the stimulus of a shovelful of manure of any kind, and these fields are re- ported to yield as much now as when they were first cultivated. The average crop throughout the province reaches 30 bushels an acre. Its wonderful capacity for the production of wheat points to it as the future wheat- field of the world. Evidence was given before the Com- mittee of the House of Commons, in Canada, that 60 bushels of spring wheat had been raised to the acre, and that the wheat weighed 66 lb. to the bushel; also, that one bushel of wheat sown had produced 70 bushels. Other cereals sown showed similar results, the average yield throughout the province having been as follows : — Oats, 40 bushels ; barley, 35 bushels ; and peas, 50 bushels to the acre. Prairie grass, when cut and made into hay, averaged over three tons per acre. Owing to the light rainfall the uncut grass is almost as good as hay when winter sets in, and it re- mains good all the winter, as the snow being so light and dry it does not rot. Horses and cattle, in fact, are left out all the winter with no other food than what they procure by paw- MANITOBAH. 69 iug the snow aside and eating the grass they find beneath it. The Homestead Law. — In 1872, in its first session, the Legislature of Manitobah passed a homestead law, which, in addition to exempt- ing from seizure for debt the debtors' goods as follows — furniture, tools, farm implements in use ; one cow, two oxen, one horse, four sheep, two pigs, and thirty days' provender for the same — contains a clause enacting that the land cultivated by the debtor to the extent of 160 acres, and the house, stables, barns, and fences on the same, are declared free from seizure by virtue of all writs issued by any court of the province. Whatever accident or misfortune, therefore, may happen, the farm, the residence, &c., are secured to the family. It remains their home from which no creditor can drive them whatever betide. They have thus a roof to shelter them, land to cultivate, cattle to mul- tiply, tools to work with, and, in fact, everj' necessary to enable them to make a new start under favourable circumstances. Many of the States of the American Union have passed liberal homestead laws, but that of Manitobah excels them all in the liberality of its provisions. 70 LANDS OF PLENTY. The Dominion Lands' Act, which, after regu- lating the administration, management, survey, terms of sale, reservation for school and other purposes, &c., provides that free grants of land, to the extent of 160 acres, be made to every head of a family, male or female, and a further grant of 160 acres to every child, boy or girl, on their attaining eighteen years of age, on the following simple conditions, viz., that they erect a residence upon their property, that they reside upon it at least six months in the year, and that year by year they place an in- creased acreage under Cultivation. These simple duties being performed for three years, a Crown patent is then issued, and the settler is free to sell, exchange, or deal with his land in any way he sees fit. Every person entering upon one of these grants can pre-empt a further lot or quarter section of 160 acres, for which he must pay at the rate of 1 dol., or 4s. 2d., per acre, at any time within three years from the time of his entering into pos- session of the land. Should the settler, however, have the neces- sary capital, and desire further to enlarge the area of his domain, he can purchase from the MANITOBAH. 71 Government another half-section, or 320 acres more, for cash at 1 dol. per acre. This would give him an estate of 640 acres, or one square mile, for an immediate payment of about .£65 and a deferred payment of about £32 m ore in three years. The object sought by the Go- vernment is to introduce and establish a popu- lation of permanent settlers on the land, to whom every facility and encouragement is shown ; but in its far-seeing wisdom, and taking warning from past experience, Government has endeavoured to guard against allovdng large tracts of land to pass into the hands of land companies and large capitalists, by enact- ing that no sale or grant, or the two combined, of more than 640 acres shall be made to the same individual. On these favourable conditions becoming known, farmers and others in the older pro- vinces of Canada, in England, Scotland and" Ireland, in the United States, in Iceland, in Germany, and in Russia, hastened to take advantage of them, so that a tide of emigration to Manitobah has set in far surpassing the most sanguine expectation even of those gentle- men who advocated this liberal land policy. In 72 LANDS OF PLENTY. 1878 over 30,000 souls are stated to have been added to the population by immigration alone. During nine months of the present year this number has been largely exceeded. Already there are between 8,000 and 9,000 German Mennonites, or Quakers, comfortably settled in their new homes on reservations allotted to them near the southern boundary of the province. These frugal industrious people left comfortable homes and a flourishing district in Southern Russia for conscience sake. The cottages of over 2,000 Icelanders now dot the picturesque shores of Lake Manitobah, where a large reservation has been granted to them. Colonies of Englishmen and Scotch- men have planted themselves on the Little Saskatchewan and on the shores of Lake Win- nipeg. A most thriving settlement, chiefly of Canadians and Scotchmen has lately been esta- blished near the Red river, close to the southern boundary line of the province, while a mixed lot of various nationalities, including a considerable " sprinkling'^ of Americans chiefly from Minnesota, Dakotah, and adjoin- ing states, have spread themselves over the length and breadth of the country. The MANITOBAH. 78 Indians number about 10,000 and the half- breed population nearly as many more. And now we must close our short sketch of Manitobah. Though scarcely ten years old, as a member of the Canadian Confederacy, and but sparsely settled, the wave of westward emigration already extends far beyond it. The completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway to Selkirk, at the crossing of Red River, will in fact make Manitobah the front door through which the great tide of North -Western and Pacific bound travel must pass. The point to which all comers gravitate is Winnipeg the capital ; and naturally the reader will desire to know something about it. Its growth has been truly wonderful, surpassing in the opinion of many the early growth of even that modern marvel of material progress, Chicago. Prior to 1870 it was a frontier trading station or "post^^ of the Hudson^s Bay Company, under the name of Fort Garry, and will be chiefly remembered by the distant reader as the scene of Louis RiePs fiasco and the collapse of his rebellion on the approach of the Red River Expedition, led by the hero of Ashantee and Zululand, Sir Garnet Wol- n V; .I'.'r, 74 LANDS OP PLENTY. seley. In 1869 the Hudson Bay Company's rights to all its remaining territories (except the " reserve " of 450,000 acres before referred to) were purchased by the Dominion Government under Imperial authority. From that time as a monopolizing and semi-sovereign power this company, which had flourished for two hundred years under the charter granted in 1669 to Prince Rupert and his associate " company of adventurers/' ceased to exist. " The beginning of the end/' — to quote the words of Governor Dallas, when shown some gold washed from the sand-bars of the Saskatchewan river — " had come/' to the last of the great English mono- polies. It could not long withstand the com- bined opposition of miners, merchants, free trade, and farmers' rights. The " Star of Empire," in its westward flight, guided forces against which the charter and the vested rights, the discipline and the etiquette, of this gigantic corporation with its 3,000 officers and servants, were equally powerless. From the period of its consolidation with the rival " North- West '* Compary in 1821 down to 1870, it was all but impossible for a party, however formidable in point of numbers and equipment, to cross the MANITOBAH. 76 country from Fort Garry to the Pacific with- out the co-operation of the Hudson Bay Com- pany. Its forts were the only stations on that long route where horses could be exchanged, provisions bought, and guides or information procured. The " fertile belt " was then and for many and long years after unknown to the out- side world. The rich alluvial plains of the Red river and of the Assiniboine and North and South Saskatchewan rivers formed the grazing grounds of the buflfalo. Here the hardy Hud- son Bay men hunted them, and maintained their " posts " mainly for the purpose of supply- ing their far-northern stations with pemmican or cured buifalo-meat. But the sweeping tide of immigration has changed all this, and the rush of the locomotive and its swiftly moving train of carriages, and the clack of the steamer's paddle, have long since silenced the monotonous creak- ing of the primitive Red-river cart, which was ^^/l the only mode of summer land conveyance in the country when the writer first visited it in 1849. The position of Winnipeg at the confluence of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers secures to it great commercial advantages, while its central situation on the proposed line of the Canadian >. V w w w. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I J25 US ■tt Uii 12.2 2.0 lU 140 L25 IIIU 111 LANDS OF PLENTY. Pacific Railway will give it additional pro- minence as a centre of land transit and trans- port. Its growth, as already stated, has been remarkable. In 1870 the newly fledged Winnipeg con- tained a population of 253 all told. In 1873 the number of its inhabitants had risen to 2,200. In 1878 the settlement numbered nearly 9,000, and, as we write, an estimated return, gives the figures at between 11,000 and 12,000. If this rate of growth is maintained for the next ten years, when the city will, so to speak, have " attained its majority,'' it will contain a population of 50,000, and the pro- vince little short of 250,000. The main thoroughfares of the " city " are 132 feet in width, and numerous stone and brick blocks, hotels, and public offices give it quite the air of a Western metropolis. Opposite the city the Red river is about 1,000 feet wide — rather wider, in fact, than the Thames at Lon- don Bridge. The increase in the value of land in Winnipeg has kept pace with the growth of population, and building-lots in certain portions of the city are held at high figures. From present indications MANITOBAH. 1*J the current year will witness another influx of settlers surpassing in number that of last year. Agriculturists with sufficient means to make a start are the class of immigrants most wanted now. But very little knowledge of farming is required to make a successful settler, and even that is easily acquired. Persons leaving England early in March or April next will arrive in time to sow and realise a crop during the coming year, provided they make no delay in choosing their location.* The land is not * Local opinion seems to be pretty equally divided as to the best time to arrive in Manitobah. The special correspondent of the Toronto Daily Olohe, writing from Winnipeg in July 1879, says : — " It is the universal opinion here that emigration in the spring is a great mistake. The male members of the family should come up in Sep- tember or October, when the v.eather is fine and the country dry ; the land should be selected ; some temporary shelter should be found, or board secured from a neigh- bour. The houses and sheds should be erected during the winter, and the family should follow in the spring. The animals and implements, having been procured in the winter, would be ready for active work with the plough from the very opening of the season. Three months might be employed at this work by the man prepared for it by his winter's labour, whereas no one, however active or industnous, can get more than one month's ploughing if he emigrates in the spring. Be it remarked that fall- breaking of the prairie is considered to be of no value. It is necessary that the soil should be exposed to the in- 78 LANDS OF PLENTY. arbitrarily allotted, but every applicant for a free grant is at liberty to roam about, see for himself, and then make choice of any lot not already conceded. The Canadian Pacific Bail- way between Fort William, Thunder Bay, and Selkirk, 410 miles long, is all under contract, and being rapidly pushed forward, and as each section is completed extra means of transport will follow, and the land will advance in value. Winnipeg, however, is already connected to the south-east by railway through to Quebec and Halifax, from which ports it is distant only from four to five days' travel, so that the entire journey from London to Winnipeg can be easily made in fifteen days. BouTES, Bates of Fare,&c.* — From Toronto vid Northern Bailway to Collingwood (94 miles) , thence by Lake Superior Line steamers (semi- weekly) vid Bruce mines, Sault Ste. Marie, Neepigon, Silver islet, Fort William, to Duluth. Thence by Northern Pacific Bailway to Moor- head (252 miles), Glyndon or Fisher's landing, fluenoe of the summer's son in order that it may be rotted. The sod broken in the fall is as tongh as ever in the spring." * For detailed routes and tables of distances to Win> nipeg, see Appendix. MANITOBAH. 79 and thence by steamer during navigation in Red river vid Pembina (72 miles) to Winnipeg ; or vid Glyndon (243 miles) with St. Paul and Pacific and Red River and Manitobah Railways to Winnipeg. RoXjTE 2. — From Toronto vid Collingwood, &c., t& Thunder bay. At Prince Arthur's landing (5-^2 miles) stage connection is made, by what is known as " Dawson's line/' to Lake Shebandowan (45 miles), >hence by steamer and portages vid Kettle falls. Fort Francis, Rainy (Rene) river, to Lake of the Woods (N.W. angle, 310 miles) , and thence by stage or waggon (95 miles) to Winnipeg, ^otal distance 1,033 miles; time, twelve to fourteen days. Im- migrant fare 10 dols., and 5 dols. for provision. Via Duluth the fares from Toronto or Hamilton are— to Winnipeg, first class, 42 dols. 60 cents. ; s^ond class, 21 dols. Route 3. — All rail l^rough United States vid Chicago or Milwaukie to St. Paul, and thence by St. Paul and Pacific Railway vid Breckenridge and Glyndon to Pembina and Winnipeg; or same route to Glyndon, and thence, vid Fisher's Landing, by steamboat on Red river, as in Route 1. 80 LANDS OP PLENTY. Route 4. — From Toronto by Grand Trunk Railway to Port Huron, Michigan, and thence via Grand Haven (Lake Michigan steamer), Milwaukie, and St. Paul, to Winnipeg. There is also a fifth route via Samia, Ontario, by Beatty and Co.'s packet line on Lake Superior to Duluth, and thence by con- tinuous railway, as in Routes 1 and 2. Large numbers of the French-Canadian immigrants have reached Wiimipeg by this route. The boats on Red river are small, and are usually overcrowded during the summer ''rush" of immigration . The cost of conveyance per head for intending colonists, including the ocean pas- sage-money between Liverpool, or other British seaport, and Quebec or Halifax, may be com- puted at from £10 to £15 for steerage and third class, or emigrant, accommodation ; and at from £25 to £40 for saloon and intermediate cabin, or first and >5f^cond class. The best times to arrive in Manitobah are from April 10th to May 1st, and between the middle of September and the end of October. To facilitate reference, a list of the districts and more recent settle- ments in Manitobah will be found in the succeeding chapter. MANITOBAH. 81 Drawbacks. — ^No country is quite perfect. This, we think, will be everywhere admitted, from the settler's point of view. 'Tis perhaps hard that such a " poor man's Paradise " as Mani- tobah should present any bar to perfect bliss; but even there everything is not couleur de rose. There are obstacles which must, for a time at least, create prejudice and retard settlement. Briefly stated, these are — First, its remoteness and consequent present difficulty of access and egress. Home markets only can be counted on for the staple product of the soil for the next two years, that is, until the Pacific Railway is completed and in operation to Selkirk, or the promised "short cut" by way of the Nelson river and Port Nelson on Hudson's Bay is opened to commerce. Second, the visitations of grasshop- pers or locusts, which at times have proved, and may therefore again prove, very destructive to the grain crops. I am aware that in approach- ing this subject I am treading delicate ground ; that whatever opinion I offer in regard to these visitors I am certain to be challenged by the champions either of the hopper or the no-bopper party. I feel, however, that I have a duty to discharge to my reader, and that I cannot serve 6 ■■* ■* 82 LANDS OF PLENTY. the cause of truth better, than by quoting from competent authorities on the subject. Mr. James Trow, M.P., in one of his letters on the subject, says Manitobah and the North- West are not breeding-grounds; the locusts "are foreigners, and much more liable to over-run Nebraska, Kansas, Minnesota, and Dacotah than Manitobah. Manitobah had an immunity of thirty-seven years. From 1820 to 1857 not a single grasshopper was in the country. In 1873, 1874, and 1875 crops were partially destroyed, more particularly in 1874, but none have since appeared, and, in all probability, may not again for half a century." Professor Macoun, on the other hand, in his evidence before the Dominion House of Com- mons, stated that "grasshoppers are almost certain to be occasional visitors." Judging from my own experiences in neighbouring Da- cotah in the autumn of 1876, I am inclined to side with the last witness. A few stragglers jfrom the invading locust army reached the South Saskatchewan in 1875, but none have yet been seen, Professor Macoun says, on Peace river. Thus far the Mennonite settlers, of whom there are now upwards of 8,000 settled on the MANITOBAH. 8S Bed river and in the various sections of the province, appear to be the only people who understand how to treat these troublesome visitors. During the summer that social pest the mos- quitoe also makes its appearance, and " leaves its sting behind." Though not quite so large or so venomous as the Mississippi "galley- nipper" — which is said by travellers on that far-famed river to flap its wings like a prairie- fowl, and to bite through a copper or cast-iron kettle — they are described as being very trouble- some. Black and sand flies and other insects of this species are also common in some parts. Weeds are likewise troublesome to wheat- growers and stock-raisers. Among the hindrances to rapid settlement in Manitobah and in some sections of the ad- joining North- West territory, should also be mentioned the scarcity and consequent difii- culty of procux'ing timber for building purposes on an3rthing like a large scale. That in most general use is spruce, of which there is a good supply on the Saskatchewan and at the head of the Duck mountains. Sawn pine timber is imported largely from Minnesota, and fetches 6 * 84 LANDS OP PLENTY. high prices. Poplar serves as ^el, and spruce and tamarac are used for fencing. As a whole, the province, in common with most prairie coun- tries, is but scantily supplied with building timber, and this fact may increase the difficul- ties of providing adequt tely for the large agri- cultural population the province is otherwise adapted to sustain. The following were the average prices of horses, cattle, provisions, &c., in the city of Winnipeg in 1878, and may be accepted as the standard for the next four years : — Horses, per pair Oxen, per yoke Good cows, from Waggons, from One ox cart ,, harness Breaking-plough . , Harrow .... Cooking-stove, with furniture Flour, per barrel Beef, per pound Pork, per barrel Butter, per pound . Eggs, per dozen Potatoes, per bushel Wheat „ . Peas „ . Barley „ OatB » 10 300 dollars. 150 „ 80 to 35 „ 80 to 85 „ 15 to 20 „ V I/O 9 ,, 25 to 30 „ 10 to 16 „ 25 to 40 6 „ cents to 15 cents. 18 to 25 dollars. 25 cents. 25 „ 75 „ 1 dollar 50 „ 1 » 1 „ 25 „ » MANITOBAH. 85 Sawn timber for building, per thousand feet, fetches from 22 to 35 dollars. Average Yield of Crops grovm in Manitohah.* Wheat, per acre 85 bushels. Barley „ 40 Peas „ 40 Oats „ 60 Potatoes „ 200 II II II The total yield of the province for 1876 has been thus stated: — Wheat, 480,000, Barley, 173,000, Oats, 380,000, Potatoes, 460,000 bushels. • These statistics are the result of observations at thirty different settlements in the North- West during the harvest season of 1878. Reports thus far received for 1879 of the crops in the valley of Red River and through- out the settled districts of the North-West territory are highly favourable. Of wheat, it is believed an average of 30 bushels to the acre will be obtained; of barley 40 bushels, and of oats 60 bushels. 86 LANDS OF PLENTT. CHAPTER V. KEEWATIN AND THE NORTH- WEST TERRITORY. THB "FSSTILB belt." LAND AND HOMBS FOB THB MILLION. BouoHLY speaking, the territory belonging to and embraced within the Dominion of Canada in the North-West covers 2,750,000 square miles, an area equal to twenty-six times that of the province of Manitobah. It was erected into a separate Government by the Act of October 7th, 1876. Its boundaries extend from Lac Seul (long. 92° W., lat. 50° N.) to the base of the Rocky mountains, in lat. 60° N., thence along the base of the Rocky mountains to lat. 50° N., thence to the western boundary of Mani- tobah, thence along the said western boundary to Lac Seul. That portion or segment known as the district or territory of Keewatin adjoins Manitobah on the north and east, extending as KEEWATIN, ETC. 87 far as Big island, thirty-five miles on the west shore of Lake Winnipeg. The district was organised in 1876, and embraces an area of 895,000 acres, lying between 91° 8' and 100° 8' West, and between Manitobah and the Ameri- can boundary and the Northern limit of Canada. It is principally occupied by Icelandic colonists, who are settled in six townships along the west border of the lake. The colony numbers about 1,800 souls, and is known as New Iceland. The chief settlement is at Gimli. Icelanders River and Sandy Bar (Sand Bay) are the names given to smaller villages in the infant colony. These colonists are a hardy, happy, and harmless race of people, and, as might be expected, subsist largely on fish. After enduring great hardships in their own country, they exhibit a docility and desire to adapt themselves to New World ways and Western fashions, that is not a little surprising. They are well educated, and mani- fest a high degree of intelligence and ability. "I scarcely entered a hovel at Gimli,'' said Lord DufFerin, in his famous Winnipeg speech, " which did not contain a library." A good winter road has been constructed between these settlements and the road system 88 LA.NDS OP PLENTY. of Manitobah, so that this really interesting little community of Norsemen and women, bred amid the snows and ashes of an Arctic volcano, is at all times accessible to the traveller and sight- seeker through Manitobah. But Keewatin or Manitobah, or even both combined, form but a very small portion of Her Majesty's dominions in North- Western Canada. West of Portage-la-Prairie, on the Assiniboine river, stretches ". , . farther far than human eye can reach," for 250 miles, the magnificent country known as the " Fertile Belt." This vast tract, when fully cultivated, will be the granary of Great Britain, the wheat-field of the world. The eccentric John Randolph's well-known and oft-quoted description of Washington as a city of " magnificent distances," holds with even greater force and fitness to the country we are now seeking to describe, than to the stately but solitary capital on the banks of the Potomac. " Distance ! " said a Yankee traveller, when ap- pealed to on the probable width of the apparently limitless expanse of rolling prairie which every- where confronted him, " Distance ! I should think so. Distance till you can't see ! " Westward NOETH-WEST TERRITORY. 89 and northward of the " Fertile Belt " stretch the " Great Lone Land," the " Wild North Land," "No Man'^ Land,'' "Rupert's Land," "Fur Land," and no one knows how many more lands. Verily this is a great country. For purposes of exploration and of present or future settlement, this vast territory, covering two and three-quarters millions of square miles, may be thus classified and distinguished : — Wheat Area. Sq. Miles. 1. General boundaries: from Lac Seul (say long. 92° W., lat. 50° N.) to foot of Rocky mountains, lat. 60° N. ; thence along base of Rocky mountains to lat. 50° N. ; thence to the south bend of Mouse river; thence to the Lake of the Woods, lat. 49° N. ; thence along Rainy river, and thence to Lac Seul. This area, embracing Manitobah, unbroken by mountains or rockf^ to any mate- rial extent, with streams and small lakes which but fertilize, may be stated at 320,000 2. Beyond it, northwards, are also areas of richest vegetable mould 90 LANDS OP PLENTY. Sq. MilM. 320,000 sfmmus), on warm Silurian aod De- Tonian bases, and with marly clays of utmost fertility. They are found on the lower reaches of the Rivers Peace, Hay, and Aux Liards (Arctic streams, tributaries of the great Mac- kenzie river), and embrace at least . 50,000 Vegetable, Grass, and Timber Area, 3. Hudson's Bay basin (portion Silurian, so far as known, and fairly predicable) east side (E. of meridian 80° W.) 100,000 square miles. West side (W. of meridian 80° W.) 300,000 square miles 400,000 4. Winnipeg basin, east side, from English river to Nelson river . . 80,000 5. Beaver river (middle and lower parts) 50,000 6. Methy lake and Clear Water river, and Athabasca river from Clear Water river to Athabasca lake, east side 30,000 930,000 NOETH-WEST TERBITORY. 91 Sq.HUei. 7. West of Mackenzie river (De- ' vonian, with coal measures) to wheat line as above stated, and from Fort Chipweyan; Lake Arthabasca, to Fort Resolution on Great Slave lake, say, from lat. 58° to 61° N. . . . 10,000 8. East side of Mackenzie river to Fort Good Hope, or say lat. 68° N. . 100,000 9. West of the Mackenzie river from lat. 61° N., northwards, to Ame- rican (late Russian) boundary, along 141° W., and American Pacific shore strip, viz. : — all north of lat. 60° N., except area No. 5 aforesaid . . 160,000 10. Rocky mountain eastern slope beyond wheat line .... 30,000 11. Outlying areas, amongst others the extensive but undefined ones be- tween the Hudson's Bay Silurian, and northern rivers of the St. Law- rence valley; say from Lake Mis- tassini to Lake Nepigon . . . 100,000 12. Add, the "American desert'' of our latitudes; say, between lats. 1,330,000 92 LANDS OP PLENTY. Sq. Miles. 1,330,000 49° and 50° N., where maize thrives and buffaloes fatten — a favourite Indian hunting ground . . . 470,000 Total area . 1,800,000 13. The rest of our North-West and Rupert's Land territory, includ- ing the immense "Barren Grounds" of our Laurentian system, and the Labrador Rocks of eastern Rupert's Land, and the great wilds and islands of the Arctic, estimated at another million square miles . . 1,000,000 Total . . 2,850,000 That portion of it more properly designated the Saskatchewan country is bounded on the south by the 49th parallel, west by the Rocky mountains, north by parallel 55°, and east by Manitobah. The best known and most settled section of this immense region lies between Point du Chene, 30 miles east of Winnipeg, and Lake St. Anne, 40 miles west of Fort Edmonton, forming the "Fertile Belt" of the North- SASKATCHEWAN COUNTRY. 93 West. It is 960 miles in length (east to west) with an average width of 250 miles. This would embrace 240,000 square miles. One fourth of this area, equal to 40,000,000 acres, it is estimated, will produce wheat, barley, and potatoes of good quality and in great abund- ance. In the language of the hopeful Colonel Sellers, " There's millions in it.'' Climate, Seasons, Temperature, &c. — The climate and ranges of the thermometer in the North -Western territory are marked by the same general features as those already described in our chapter on Manitobah. The winters are steady and uniform, and the atmosphere bright, transparent, and exhilarating. It is without question one of the healthiest sections of the Dominion. It is a curious fact that spring seems to ad- vance from north-west to south-east, at the rate of about 250 miles per day, and that winter is felt in Manitobah first and thence travels westward at about the same rate. It is worthy of note also that Halifax on the Atlantic sea- board is nearly as cold in spring and summer as interior points situate more than twelve degrees further north. 94 LANDS OP PLENTY. The following table^ compiled by Professor Macoun, exhibits the comparative range of the thermometer at various points throughout the Dominion : — Lati- tude Sum- Spring. Au. tnmn. July and north. mer, August. Camberiand House, 53-37 62-62 3304 32-70 64-25 N.W.T. Port Simpsor., N.W.T. . 61-51 59-48 26-66 27-34 62-31 Fort Chipe»7yan, N.W.T. Port Willinm, N.W.T. . 58-42 58-70 22-76 31-89 60-60 48-24 59-94 39-67 37-80 60-52 Montreal, Quebec . 45-31 67-26 39-03 4518 68-47 Toronto, Ontario . 43-40 64-43 42-34 46-81 66-51 4719 65-23 37-58 4007 66-43 Balitax, N.S. . 44-39 6100 31-67 46-67 66-55 BeUeville, Ontaiio . 4410 ( temperature nearly that of (. Toronto. Dnnvegan, Peace Biver 5608 C averai B^ summer six 1 months. i 54-44 Edmonton, N.W.I.* 53-31 62-50 39-70 — — Carlton 52-52 — 35-70 — — Winnipeg, Manitobak . 49-52 64-76 30-13 35-29 65-32 Mean of thd Tear 35-51. • The western curve of the Fertile Belt, extending for 300 miles sonth of Edmonton, has an average ^ 'uter temperature 15° higher than that of Western Ontario. By an analysis of the figures contained in the right-hand column, it will be seen that the temperatures of the months when grain ripens is remarkably uniform throughout the Domi- nion^ from Nova Scotia and Quebec to the north of Great Slave lake. The mean summer temperature of the great prairie region we are specially interested in and now describing is 6(y, with ample rain-fall. SASKATCHEWAN OOUNTET. 95 Lands for Settlement. — It is estimated that fiilly four-fifths of all emigrants to British North America now proceed westward of Lake Superior. They go to what is known as the "Central Prairie Land." Under this title is emhraced the vast tract stretching from 49° to 60° N., a distance of 760 miles, and embracing an area equal to 480,000 square miles. The lands are watered by the Red, Assiniboine, Sas- katchewan, and Peace rivers, and are among the most valuable in the Dominion. The south and larger half of this area lies upon the waters of the Saskatchewan, Red, and Assiniboine rivers. North of this the Beaver or Churchill tract occupies a triangular area of 50,000 square miles. Of the remainder, 120,000 are situate on the Arthabasca and on the Peace river to the north; and 30,000 square miles, forming the north-west corner of the tract, lie on the waters of the River of the Mountains and Hay river, branches of the great McKenzie river. The valleys of the Assiniboine and Saskat- chewan embrace 40,000,000 of acres of rich soil and pasturage, 18,000,000 of which are immediately available for farming purposes. The western district of Manitobah, which in- 96 LANDS OP PLENTY. eludes all the land laying between Rat creek and Poplar point, and between Manitobah lake and the Assiniboine, is probably the very best in the province for farm purposes. The aver- age price of farms fronting on the Red and Assiniboine rivers is from 7 dols. to 10 dols. per acre. In the newer settlements, lots have changed hands at 2 dols. and 3 dols. per acre, while in favoured spots near Winnipeg small tracts are held as high as 40 dols. per acre. The land between the North and South Sas- katchewan rivers is nearly all good. From Long lake to the Little Saskatchewan river, the country, for a distance of 150 miles, con- tains many fine sections of rich fertile land, interspersed with poplar groves, well adapted to the wants of English tenant-farmers. The " lay of the country'' in this section is thus de- scribed by C. J. Whillams in his last report to the Dominion Minister of Agriculture : — " Near the Little Saskatchewan, the prairie of the slopes, valleys, ridges, and table-land to the agriculturist is an ocean of wealth; acre after acre, mile after mile, so far as the eye can see, the landscape is beautifully waving, the rolls are like the billows of the mighty Atlau- SASKATCHEWAN VALLEY. 97 tic so far as they sweep in a continuous wave for miles in one direction. Whatever nature has produced it has done so most luxuriantly ; the colour and variety of wild flowers is so great that the prairie presented the appearance of a huge flower-bed; wild rose trees from six to twelve inches high are so numerous that the resting-place while camping on the prairie is literally ' laying on a bed of roses/ " Professor Macoun, from whose evidence we have so often quoted, has stated that " a con- tinuous farming country extends from Point du Chien, 30 miles east of Winnipeg, to the Assiniboine at Fort Ellice, a distance of 230 miles, without a break." Next to the Saskatchewan district west and northward is a very extensive district, forming the watershed between the Saskatctewan and Peace rivers. Through it flows the Arthabasoa river. This is all forest, and but little more than its name of " Thickwood country " is known of it. Adjoining this is the Peace River section, ex- tending along the Rocky mountains from a point a little north of Jasper's House to Fort Liard and the west end of Little Slave lake, thence to 7 98 LANDS OF PLENTY. the forks of Arthabasca, and down that river to Arthabasca lake. The Peace River country, indeed the whole prairie region situated between Manitobah and the Rocky mountains, is described by all travellers and settlers, professional and unpro- fessional, as capable of successful cultivation, though varying greatly, as do all lands of equal oxtent, in capacity for production. In general character it is very like that of Manitobah west from Portage-la-Prairie to Pine creek. The hindrances to the settlement and permanently successful cultivation of these vast prairies have been already briefly stated. Certainly neither climate nor soil can be fairly numbered among them. They are unquestionably capable of sustaining a large and active population, and with the increased facilities for transport, and the tide of immigration which the Dominion and American railway systems are sure sooner or later to bring, they are not likely to remain long unoccupied. Five-sixths of all the timber in the Peace River country is poplar. The river scenery is described as " enchanting." One parting ^ord of advice, my reader, while on this important branch of my subject. Avoid NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 99 land speculators as you would the plague, espe- cially those of the " Winnipeg " species. Popu- lation invariably follows the course of navigable rivers. The best lands and most advantageous situations for wood and water are thus rapidly appropriated. The intending settler in the North- West territory will, therefore, be repaid by an attentive study of the following. Rivers and Lakes. — The extent of the river and lake system of the North- West territory — briefly outlined in our sketch of the inland communications of Manitobah in the foregoing chapter — may be thus summed up. Red river has 400 miles of navigation, and steamers ply throughout the season between Lake ^Vinnipeg and Breckenridge, Minnesota, a distance of 288 miles. The Saskatchewan* river is 1,864^ miles in length. The north and south branches rise in the Rocky mountains within a few miles of each other. The south or main branch is 1,092 miles in length, and the north branch 772^ miles. In ascending the river from Lake Win- * Indian name is Kisis-kah-chewan (" the river that runs swiftly "). 7 * 100 LANDS OP PLENTY. nipegj Grand Rapids, three miles long and 434 feet descent, are first reached. Pas Mission, at the mouth of the Pasquai river, 85 miles, is a fairly prosperous settle- ment, with a soil well adapted to agriculture. Prince Albert Mission, on the south side of the North Saskatchewan, 45 miles below Carle- ton, extends a distance of about 30 miles, and numbers nearly 1,000 settlers, who are in a highly prosperous condition. Edmonton is the centre of a fine section of farming country, rapidly settling up, with an enterprising population. The country drained by the north branch and its tributary, the Battle river, is considerably wooded. Edmon- ton is the centre of the gold- washing fields of the North Saskatchewan. Battleford, the capital of the North- West territory, situate 700 miles by road west of Win- nipeg city, occupies the tongue of land between the Battle river and the north branch of the Saskatchewan. The Canadian Pacific Railway will probably cross the river at this point, and doubtless will greatly add to the future pros- perity of this ambitious three -year-old town. A fortnightly express and postal service is main- NORTH-WEST TEREITORY. 101 tained between Winnipeg, Battleford, and Ed- monton. There is also direct telegraphic com- munication opened with Ottawa and other points. Fort Jarvis, 80 miles north of Edmonton^ is a French-Canadian settlement and headquar- ters of the Mounted Police. Fort Edmonton stands on the North Saskat- chewan, about 20 miles to the north of the pro- posed railway line. Sturgeon Creek, Lake St. Anne, to the westward, abounds in white-fish. On the south branch above " the forks " of the Saskatchewan spreads the "park country," " natural fields of rich land dotted with lakes and groves." At St. Laurent, 60 miles from the forks, is a considerable settlement of French half-breeds. Duck Lake, 20 miles west, is also the nucleus of an improving colony. The " Moose Woods," 35 miles beyoi^d, and "Cyprus Hills," abound in nutritious grasses, and are well watered, and adapted for stock-raising. Red Deer, Bow, and Belly rivers are tribu- taries of the South Saskatchewan, and drain a fine region, estimated to contain an area equal to eight times that of Manitobah. Fort Calgarry is at the confluence of the Bow and Elbow rivers, and Fort McLeod, on the 102 LANDS OF PLENTY. Belly river ; a short distance south of Fort Cal- garry, are natural sporting grounds. Buffalo herd on them in large numbers. The land in the neighbourhood of the former station is de- scribed by travellers as being "as level as a cricket-ground." The Assiniboine river, the principal tributary of Red river, which it joins at Winnipeg, is usually navigable as far as the portage, 65 miles from its mouth. During high waters boats run up to Fort EUice, 350 miles. Its entire course is upwards of 600 miles. The Qu'-Appelle, 250 miles long, and enter- ing it 220 miles west of Winnipeg the Souris and Rapid rivers are its principal tributaries. Peace river is navigable for 500 miles from the Rocky mountains, with an average depth of six feet. The following list embraces the chief points on this river east of the Rocky mountains. Hudsons' Hope, Fort St. John (60 miles), Dunvegan (180 miles). Battle river (280), Fort Vermillion (480), Little Red river (580), Fort Chipweyan, Lake Arthabaska, French Mission, Fort Simpson, and Fort Liard. The Arthabasca river is navigable for 180 NOETfl-WEST TEEEITOET. 103 miles above the lake of this name. It drains what is known as the " Thick wood " country. Between Lake Arthabasca and the Arctic sea, a distance of 1,300 miles, there is but one portage necessary, and that is only fourteen miles in length. McKenzie river runs 1,400 miles almost due north from Lake Arthabasca to the Arctic ocean. The Winnipeg, Nebron, and Beaver, and the Hudson Bay rivers and streams gene- rally south of York Factory are navigable for canoes and small craft. The total river navi- gation within Dominion territory in the North - West is variously estimated at between 10,000 and 11,000 miles. When on the Red river in 1849, 1 was shown the identical bark canoe* which, twenty-four years before (1828), carried Governor Simpson and his staff from Hudson's Bay, via Peace river to tide-water on the Pacific at the mouth of the Frazer river, probably the longest trans- continental canoe trip ever accomplished by European voyageurs. It was a noble craft, and, when manned by a picked crew of eight Canadian voyageurs, brought vividly to mind the records of the palmy days of ancient Hochelaga, the brave 104 LANDS OP PLENTY. adventures of Jacques Cartier, and the mission- ary exploits of Hennepin and La Salle. It is still remembered by many an old Hudson Bay trapper in these far northern regions. Thirty years ago, when the writer first visited the country, the Assiniboines, Saulteaux, Sioux, Ojibbeways, Blackfeet, and Crees roamed un- disturbed from the Rocky mountains eastward to the Red river and the Mississippi. These once populous and powerful tribes now number scarcely 25,000. They are rapidly fading away before the combined influence of European and American settlement, and must soon altogether disappear. Half-breeds from Manitobah are taking their places, only in their turn to be supplanted by the whites. Sport. — ^The prairies and forests of this vast domain abound in wild game. Among the most common are deer, including moose, elk, and cariboo; bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, wild cats, and rabbits. Of the fur-bearing ani- mals the fox, otter, beaver, mink, and musk- rat are the most numerous. Buffalo roam through the Saskatchewan valley and between the Arthabasca and Peace rivers. Among feathered game may be mentioned grouse. NOETH-WEST TERRITORY. 105 pigeons, partridges, and prairie fowl, while in the spring and autumn geese, ducks, and pigeons are plentiful. The lakes abound with white fish of a delicate variety, and the rivers and smaller streams in pike, pickerel, sturgeon, cat-fish, &c. During the breeding season only are game and fish protected by law. The new settlements in Manitobah are con- tained in three districts. 1. Winnipeg, the chief centre, contains the following : — Riviere Sale. Prairie Grove. Rockwood. Springfield, east of Win- Greenwood, nipeg. Grassmere. Victoria. Richland. Sunnyside. Cook's Creek. Whitwold. Simonet. Woodlands. Belcourt. Osowo. 2. Duff'erin contains — Melbourne, Poplar Heights, Clear Spring, Duff'erin, Stinking river, Boyne, and Emerson. 3. Westbourne embraces — Burnside, West- bourne, Woodside, Golden Stream, Totogon, and Palestine (now Blake). 106 LANDS OF PLENTY. In the adjoining North-West territory the principal settlements are found at varying dis- tances along the banks of the North and South Saskatchewan rivers, a district of country bounded on the south by North Saskatchewan, and north bv the watershed between that river and the Beaver and Arthabasca rivers, where the land is described as being all good. They may be thus enumerated: — Star Mission (Church of England), situate on the North Saskatchewan, on the Green Lake road, GO miles north of Carleton. Lac la Biche (Roman Catholic), 100 miles from Fort Edmonton. Victoria Mission (Wesleyan), 80 miles east of Edmonton. St. Albert Mission (Half-breed, Boman Catholic), 9 miles north of Edmonton. At Prince Albert Mission, on the North Sas- katchewan, English, Scotch, and Canadian half-breeds form a majority. ;■:*>"■ ■ >.* ■>■' 107 CHAPTER VI. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. Area^ 220,000 square miles. Population, 65,000, of whom 25,000 are Indians. Capital: Victoria, V.I. Chief towns: Yale, Clinton, Kamloops, Quesnelle, and Barkerville on the mainland, and Nanaimo, Comox, and Nanoose on Vancouver's Island. Position, Boundaries, and Divisions. — This fine province occupies the extreme north-west comer of the Dominion of Canada, being bounded northward by Alaska, south by the 49th parallel, Oregon and Washington territory (U.S.), east by the Rocky mountains, and west- ward by the North Pacific ocean.* It is distinguished for its geographical and * By reference to the map it will be seen that an archi- pelago extends for nearly twenty miles south from the Intexmational Boundary to the Fuca Straits. This archi- 108 LANDS OF PLENTY. climatic features, whicli divide it into three dis- tinct sections or districts, known as — 1, West of the Cascades ; 2, East of the Cascades ; and 3, the Islands of Vancouver, Queen Char- lotte, &c. Climate. — The climate of each of these several divisions varies greatly. The islands and whole coast section have a climate closely resembling that of England. The southern wind prevails, and the temperature is lower than that of the mainland. The rainfall west of the Cascades exceeds that usually experienced in England. East of the Cascades the heat and cold are more decided, accompanied not un- frequently by drought. In the neighbourhood of Victoria, and generally throughout Van- couver Island, good roads are found, and regular communication is maintained by stage. Government steamers ply regularly between Victoria and all the points of importance or interest on the coast and rivers. The scenery on the Columbia, Eraser, and Thompson rivers is exceedingly picturesque. pelago breaks up what would otherwise be one main channel into three distinct channels or passages. These are known as the Eastern, or " Bosario " Strait, the Middle, or " Douglas " channel, and the " Haro " Strait. BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 109 and no more attractive country can be found on the whole American continent for the pleasure- tourist or sportsman. Land Laws, &c. — Free grants of land are made, as in other provinces of the Dominion, to heads of families, widow j, or single men of eighteen years. East of the Cascades 320 acres is the limit of the grant, and 160 acres in either of the other divisions. After regis- tration, under the Homestead Law, the farm and buildings are free from seizure for debt to the value of £500. Goods and chattels are also free to J^IOO. At the end of two years, the regulations as to cultivation and improvement being complied with, the land becomes the property of the pre-emptor under Crown grant. Or the land may be purchased outright at four shillings per acre, to be paid in full, or in two annual payments. Military and naval officers are entitled to free grants. Timber lands can be leased at nominal rates, and gold-mining licenses are granted at £5 per annum. Gold, &c. — The discovery of the precious metal, first on the Fraser, or ^' Crazy," river, in 1858, and at Cariboo in 1862, led to the forma- tion of the Vancouver colony, and gold-mining still forms the chief industry of the province. 110 LANDS OF PLENTI. The yield for 1875 was 2,474,904 dols., whicli sum, divided among 2,024 miners, gave 1,222 dols. (^251) per man employed; a fact worthy the consideration of English miners of the pre- sent day. McDames, Deases and Thiberts' creeks are the principal mining centres, and the best route to them is by steamer from Victoria to Fort Wrangel, thence up ^he Stickeen river, and the remainder of the journey by trail. Gold in paying quantities is found at Okanagan, at Shu- swap lakes, and the country lying generally be- tween the Rocky and Cascade mountain ranges. The working of the various gold-mining dis- tricts during 1877 has resulted as follows : — In the Cariboo district 179 claims were worked by an aggregate force of 930 men, 600 of whom were Chinese, with a total yield of over half a million dollars. The Big Bonanza ledge, which includes the " American," " Pinkerton," and "Enterprise " mines, is also worked by the " Cariboo Quartz Mining Company." In the Cassiar district 123 claims were worked, and about the same amount obtained. On Fraser river little was done in the way of mining, owing to the low water in the creeks. The total yield for 1877 is computed by the mining bureau at 1,608,182 dols. 72 cents. BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. Ill The area of the Cassiar gold-field thus far de- veloped is estimated at about 300 square miles. Gold also exists in paying quantities on Neech river, Vancouver, and other parts of the island. Silver ore of good quality is obtained from the Eureka mine near Fort Hope on the Fraser river. On Texada island a " mountain of iron ore " exists, copper leads have been found at Sanich and elsewhere on Vancouver island, Howe sound, and Pitt lake, while lead is found in several localities. Nanaimo is the centre of the coal industry of the province. Several mines of bituminous or soft coal have been profitably worked for years, and fresh seams are being constantly opened. The quality is pronounced superior to Scotch, but inferior to AVelsh. The output of the Vancouver Coal Company and Wellington Colliery for the last four years has averaged 100,000 tons annually. Upwards of six hundred men (Whites, Chinese, and Indians) are employed, and their earnings range from 10s. to 20s. a day. Freestone of good quality is plentiful on Vancouver, and anthra- cite coal is found on Queen Charlotte^s island. The scarcity and high price of labour is the main obstacle in the way of further developing 112 LANDS OF PLENTY. the coal and other miniDg resources of the province. At Baynes' Sound and Burrard Inlet the croppings of coal give evidence of extensive deposits. At the former point one mine is in active operation, and coal of fair quality is shipped. Next to gold, coal, timber, and fish, furs form the most valuable article of British Columbian export. For the convenience of those seeking the respective sections of the province, what I have to say in regard to British Columbia will be stated under one or other of the natural divisions just referred to. Its coast line, extend- ing a distance of nearly 400 miles on the Pacific, is certainly one of the most delightful and pic- turesque imaginable. The brilliant descriptive writer and orator from whose published accounts and speeches we have so often culled for these pages, in his speech at Victoria, said : — " Such a spectacle as its coast line presents is not to be paralleled by any country in the world. Day after day, for a whole week, in a vessel of nearly 3,000 tons, we threaded an interminable labyrinth of watery reaches, that wound endlessly in and out of a network of BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 113 islands^ promontories, and peninsulas, for thou- sands of miles, unruffled by the slightest swell from the adjoining ocean, and presenting at every turn an ever-shifting combination of rock, verdure, forest, glacier, and snow-capped mountains of unrivalled grandeur and beauty. " One is lost in admiration at the facilities for inter-communication which are thus pro- vided for the future inhabitants of this won- derful region." Leaving the Oregon shores and approaching the province by steamer from San Francisco,^ the traveller obtains his first view of Vancou- ver Island, not long after leaving the clear rapid waters of the Colnmbia river. The island is 240 miles in length, with an average breadth of about 55 miles, and contains about 20,000 square miles. It is not an agricultural country and never can become such. It is, however^ a natural tourist-ground, abounding in good roads, and, with one of the most delightful cli- mates on the continent, has abundant facilities for communication, sight- seeing, and pleasure- taking. The harbour of Esquimault is the best on the Pacific north of the famed Golden Gate, through which is poured the cereal and auri- 8 114 LANDS OP PLENTY. ferous wealth of California. It is thirty-six feet deep, almost land-locked, and, with the " Royal roads" outside, spacious enough to give safe anchorage to a whole fleet of shipping. A strip or tongue of land, 750 feet wide, alone divides it from the harbour of Victoria, which though picturesque is somewhat narrow and intricate. The small tracts of land under cultivation in and round the city, consist of alluvium, closely resembling the patches of rich soil found among the Laurentian rocks of Ontario. The surface of the ground in that and other neighbourhoods is, however, so much broken by rock, that it is next to impossible to accurately estimate the amount of good arable land on the island. Victoria, the capital and principal town of British Columbia, is delightfully situated at the extreme south-eastern extremity of Vancouver island. The picturesque character of the town and its surroundings, the climate, scenery and sport, all combine to render a s^ay here desir- able. Originally the depot of the great Hud- son Bay Company, it assumed commercial pro- minence and population during the Fraser river gold excitement. The population numbers about 8,000, and it is not likely to be largely BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 115 increased until the long-promised and long-de- ferred Canadian Pacific Railway reaches it. Its narrow harbour, which is scarcely so large as the St. George's or Huskisson dock, Liverpool, is rock-bound, and sentinelled by the most charming miniature bays, exhibiting grassy knolls, and here and there clumps of evergreens in all the luxuriance of tropical foliage; a river opening out above the town into a kind of lake and spanned by pretty bridges, invites you to a boating excursion ; and the fresh green of the lawn-like grassy reaches which stretch into the bay, the rocky promontories with boats anchored near them, the fine snow-covered mountains in the background, and the pic- turesquely winding roads leading deviously into the country, combine to form a landscape whose soft and gay aspect immediately impresses itself on the mind of the stranger fresh from the blue waves of old ocean or the sombre-hued fir tops of Washington territory. Time need never hang heavily on the least enthusiastic or sympathetic sight-seeker, for the Indians still roam around, and lessons in the Chinook lan- guage, which is used by^the various tribes in their multifarious dealings with the white 8 ♦ 116 LANDS OF PLENTY. population — may serve as a profitable way of "breaking the ice" in a new country. Communication, Tourist Routes, &c. — The visitor to British Columbia reaching it coast- wise from Washington, Oregon, or California, should not fail to spend some time on the island. The Government roads in and around Victoria are, for the most part, well built and in good repair. Steamers ply regularly on the waters of the Georgian gulf and the Juan de Fuca straits. A Government steamer leaves Victoria weekly for Cowichan, Maple bay. Admiral island, Chemanio and Nanaimo, situate on the east side of the island, sixty-five miles north-west of Victoria. Fortnightly the same service is extended to Comox, and occasionally to Fort Wrangel and ev u to Sitka. From Nanaimo the traveller may j-ioceed by steamer to New Westminster on the mainland, or if he prefer he may reach Westminster direct from Victoria, the steamer making semi-weekly trips. At New Westminster, the former pro- vincial capital, excellent accommodation for travellers may be procured, and the extensive salmon fisheries there will render a short stay interesting. Stem wheel steamers ascend the BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 117 Lower Fraser river twice a week, 100 miles to Fort Yale, whence travellers may proceed by easy stage to Barkerville, Cariboo (gold mines), Kamloops, and Okanagan. There is also coach or stage communication between New West- minster and Burrard inlet, one of the proposed Pacific termini of the great Canadian overland route, and the centre of the lumber trade and timber-shipping interests of British Columbia. The inlet is nine miles long, deep and safe, and has doubtless a great future before it. Howe sound, divided from Burrard inlet by Bowen island, and further north Bute inlet with Valdes island rising between its mouth and Vancou- ver, are prominent features on the coast land- scape. Milbank sound, still further north, has lately attracted some attention in connection with the Peace River gold mines. The river Skeena is now navigated b^ steam vessels from Nanaimo, and furnishes perhaps the best route to the gold mines of Ominica. Both this and the Nasse river near the Alaska frontier are, however, more interesting to the pleasure tou- rist for the fish they contain, and the occa- sional pretty bits of scenery their banks afFor d them as short cuts to the gold mines. Once fairly housed in Victoria, the whole ocean and 118 LANDS OF PLENTY. river system of British Columbia, Washington territory, Oregon, and Northern California, un- folds itself to the astonished yet aspiring voya- geur, and, if his time and purse permit him to indulge his fancy, his facilities for sight-seeing are practically limitless. Puget sound is a re- markable sheet of water in itself, but still more noteworthy as the vantage ground from which may be best viewed the wonders of Washington territory. Northern Oregon, and the Columbia river. " On your way to Olympia from Kalama by rail," says a recent graphic writer, " your ears begin to be assailed by the most barbarous names imaginable. You cross a river called Skookumchuck, your train calls at places known by the jaw-breaking titles of Newaukum, Tou- tle and Tumwater, and if disposed to push your geographical inquiries further, you will learn that whole communities are delightedly dwell- ing in countries respectively labelled Kiikatat, Wahkiakum, Snohomish, Cowlitz, Nenolelops, and Kitsap. But we are now in the territory of Uncle Sam, where, following true liberty fashion, the people not only have a perfect right to call their towns after what fashion they please, but also to exercise it in the most absurd and arbitrary manner. Those desirous of push- BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 119 injg their explorations into United States ter- ritory will do well to consult one or other of the numerous guide-books to the Columbia and its lovely tributary the Wallamette, easily pro- curable at Astoria or Portland. The distance from Olympia to Portland is ninety-two miles. It is indeed something; to be gifted with taste and sense for the beautiful, and both will be re- freshed (to use the mildest form of expression) by the magnificent scenery of these noble rivers. Port Townsend, where the boat calls on its way from Olympia to Victoria, is on the boun- dary line between Queen Victoria's and Uncle Sam's dominions, in the North-West. Com- mercially or historically, it presents nothing of interest, but it is a fine point of observa- tion. Mount Rainier (Tacoma), and the grand Olympian mountain range is seen to great ad- vantage. Mount St. Helens to Mount Baker, near Bellingham bay, the latter of which was in active eruption in 1860, are also visible, their summits covered with perpetual snow. South and east lie Seattle, Steilacoom, Tacoma, and Port Ludlow and Port Madison, and far in the north the famous little island of San Juan, which formed the subject of so much diplomatic fencing and newspaper discussion 120 LANDS OF PLENTY. a few years ago. From Port Townsend, the respected old gentleman who is popularly sup- posed to carry the keys of the great American continent in his "pantaloons pocket," de- spatches a Government mail steamer to this island, whence it proceeds with passengers and freight as well as mail bags to Fort Tongass, Fort Wrangle, and Sitka. Barclay sound, Al- bemi channel, and Sumap river on the west coast should be visited. On Vancouver Island and the lower Frazer river beautiful open prairies occur amidst the forests, and here the soil being rich and deep, astonishing root-crops are raised. The valley of the Fraser below or west of the Cascades has a climate closely resembling that of Van- couver, except that during the summer months there is a slightly heavier rainfall. Twenty-five miles above Yale, and 125 above New West- minster, the outer Cascade range is passed, and in the passage the rain-line is crossed. About twelve miles further another mountain is climbed, and a region of complete aridity is reached. Forests, Timber, &c. — British Columbia, west of the Cascades, including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte's islands, may fitly be termed BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 121 the Arcadia of the Pacific coast. More than half its area is covered with one of the finest forest growths in the world. For hundreds of miles the whole surface of the country is densely wooded, gigantic pines clothing the sides and slopes of the mountain ranges in perpetual green, and disputing the mastery of the dizzy summits with the eternal snow. The immen- sity of the forests cannot well be exaggerated, and the height of the trees, reaching 300 feet and upwards, must, like those in the famed Calaveras and Mariposa groves of California^ be seen to be believed. The monarch of the British Columbian forest is, unquestionably, the Douglas Fir {Abies Douglasii). It is a most valuable timber, and is used throughout the western province for building purposes and for export under the name of ^' Oregon Pine." It attains its primest growth in the vicinity of Victoria and along the west coast of Vancouver. White cedar {thuga gigantea) is another giant of the Fraser valley and Coast region, much used by the Indians in the construction of their houses, and of those large canoes which are the wonder of the Eastern people. On Vancouver a species 122 LANDS OP PLENTY. of oak {quercus gayrrana) grows plentifully. Hemlock spruce [abies mortensiana) is common on the mainland ; while maple of two varieties {acer macrophyllum and circinatum) , two species of pine, and one each of alder and yew, are frequently met with. The arbutus grows to a fine size, and in colour and texture resembles English box. In the second or arid district a pine [pinus ponderosa), closely re- sembling the Ontario red pine, takes the place, though by no means the form, of the Douglas fir of the coast. Poplar, and black pine {pinus contarta), and occasional patches of black and white spruce and balsam fir, all inferior in quality, are about the only timber trees found in the third or East Cascade region. Fruits of almost every kind popular in England may be grown to perfection around Victoria. The soil of Vancouver is well suited to the growth of grapes, and apples and pears are a prolific crop. Wild berries of various kinds grow in profusion, and form a staple article of food among the coast Indians. Facilities for reaching an interior market are alone wanting to render this branch of industry profitable. BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 123 The Cascade Range. — ^The Cascade range of moimtains, the natural division of the pro- vince, merits more than passing mention in any work professing to adequately describe its peculiar features as a field for British settle- ment. It includes some of the loftiest moun- tain peaks on the North American continent, the honours being pretty equally divided be- tween the British and American territories. The view from the summit of Mount Hood has been thus described by one who essayed and accomplished the toilsome climb.* " From south to north,'^ he says, " its whole line is at once under the eye from Diamond peak to Rainier, a distance of not less than 400 miles. Within that distance are Mounts St. Helen, Baker,t Jeflferson, and the Three Sisters, making with Mount Hood eight snowy mountains. Eastward, the Blue mountains are in distinct view for at least 500 miles in length, and lying between us and them are the broad • The following are the altitudes of Mount Hood as computed by Professor Wood : — Summit of cascade range and foot of Mount Hood, 4,400 feet ; limit of forest trees, 9,000 ; limit of vegetation, 11,000 ; summit of mountain, 15,000. t Named (1792) after Capt. Vancouver's 3rd lieutenant. 124 LANDS OP PLENTY. plains of the Des Chutes, John Day's and Umatilla rivers, 150 miles in width. On the west the piny crests of the Cascades cut clear against the sky, with the Willamette valley sleeping in quiet beauty at their feet. The broad belt of the Columbia winds gracefully through the ever-green valley towards the ocean. Within these wide limits is every variety of mountain and valley, lake and prairie, bold, beetling precipices, and graceful rounded summits, blending and melting away into each other, forming a picture of unutter- able magnificence. On its northern side Mount Hood is nearly vertical for 7,000 feet, there the snows of winter accumulate until they reach the very summit ; but when the summer thaw commences, all this vast body of snow becomes disintegrated at once, and, in a sweeping avalanche, carrying all before it, buries itself in the deep furrows at its base, and leaves the precipice bare." Perhaps the best view of this monarch mountain of the North- West is to be obtained from the neighbourhood of the dalles on the Columbia river. There is no doubt that both Mount Hood and its twin brother, St. Helen's, BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETO. 125 have still smouldering fires, though ashes only fill their craters. Of the latter there are evi- dences that the fires come dangerously near the surface. Not long since, two adventurous Washingtonians, compelled by sudden fog and sleety storm to spend the night near its sum- mit, and seeking some cave among the lava wherein to shelter, discovered a fissure from which issued so glowing a heat that they passed the night in alternate freezings and scorchings — now roasting at the sulphurous fire, and anon rushing out to cool themselves in the sleet and snow. East of the Cascades, which forms the third provincial grand division, the traveller enters the " sage brush country/' At Lytton, where the waters of the Fraser and Thompson rivers meet, he finds himself fairly in the interior basin, and from that point to Clinton, 70 miles, the waggon-road passes through a region where nothing can be raised save by processes of irrigation. Over much of this tract the ground during three-fourths of the year is scarcely moistened by a shower. The whole region from the United States boundary on the Columbia river vid Okanagan, the Shuswap lakes^ and Kamloops^ north-westward across 126 LANDS OF PLENTY. the Fraser to and beyond the Chilcoten plains^ is to a great extent only suited for a grazing country. On the hill-sides and plains between the Fraser and Thompson rivers ** bunch grass/' so much esteemed for its stock- fattening qualities, is found in considerable quantities, and on this the cattle and horses feed through the winter months. In the vi- cinity of Quesnelle, and in the Nechaco valley between Quesnelle and Fort St. James on Stewart's lake, the land improves slightly, but " farming " is a precarious business even there, and this remark will fairly apply to the whole section between the Cascade and Rocky Moun- tain ranges. Professor Macoun says, " British Columbia above the Cascades can never ex- port her agricultural products with profit, and whatever is raised in the country must be con- sumed there.'' Fisheries, &c. — Next to gold and coal mining and the timber products, its fisheries constitute the most >aluable and prosperous interest of British Columbia. From the Washington coast boundary line to Alaska there is not a bay, fiord, or river that does not literally teem with fish. Fish swarm the sea, the lakes, the rivers. As a waggish Cantab BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 127 professor once remarked when fishing at the dalles of the Columbia river, "There's no finis to the finny tribe hereabouts." " We shall never forget an hour's fishing in the clear waters of an inlet of the Pacific embosomed in the midst of densely wooded mountains. With a most primitive hook, and bait collected from the mussels which lay thickly on the rocks, we filled a basket of most capa- cious dimensions with a miscellaneous collec- tion which would have gladdened the hearts of the frequenters of the Brighton Aquarium. Ferocious dog-fish, useful for their oil, deli- cate-eating rock-cod, whiting, hideous devil- fish, gigantic crabs, ugly bull-heads swelling themselves into preternatural forms, and bril- liant sea-dace were a few of the results of our hour's sport." Salmon are so plentiful that fish weighing 30 lbs. have been sold for 6d. Establishments for the " canning " of these fish, similar to those on the Columbia river, are now in suc- cessful operation, and capital might be most profitably employed in their extension, as the European and American and Australian mar- kets are all open to them. Chinese labourers 128 LANDS OF PLENTr. are largely employed at the " canneries/* and a visit to one of them and an inspection of the process will present much that is interesting as well as valuable to the traveUer in this part of the world. That of Messrs. Booth and Co., near Astoria, is, perhaps, the most complete. Salmon ascend the Fraser as high as Stewart's lake, which they usually reach by the middle of August. The fish taken in Babine lake at the head of the Skeena are, however, the finest, being both fatter and larger than the Fraser river " catch." They are dried in large numbers, and form the winter food of the soldiers and others stationed at Fort St. James and other frontier stations. There are five varieties, three known as "silver,*' the noan or humpback, and the hook-bill. The silver salmon begin to arrive in March or early in April, and last till end of August. The humpback makes its appearance every second year between August and winter. This and the hook-bill, which comes about the same time, furnish the bulk of the fish for canning and commerce and are largely exported. Enor- mous sturgeon are frequently taken. Oolachans, or " Houlican,'* a small fish of a BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 129 most delicate flavour^ run up the Fraser and other rivers twice a year ; higher up the coast they are called candle-fish, as being so full of oil, the natives dry them, and bum them as candles. Anchovies are also plentiful. Halibut, cod, herrings, and numberless other varieties of fish abound, while oysters of good flavour are abundant and cheap. There is every reason to believe that the fisheries of British Columbia will in time prove as profitable as those of Nova Scotia and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Nanaimo, V.I., is the headquarters for the deep-sea and whale fisheries. The production of the entire pro- vince for 1877 was valued at 583,432 dols. Game, Sporting, &c. — Big game are suffi- ciently abundant and wild in the province to afibrd ample sport to the hunter. For fur there are the black, red, and silver fox, sea and common otter, martin, mink, and beaver. Bufiklo are still found on the plains, bears in the mountains, elk and deer on the coast and small islands ; wild geese and ducks, grouse, and snipe are found well-nigh everywhere. Notwithstanding that the Chinese immigra- tion is still maintained, and that the Chinamen already monopolise many branches of manual 9 130 LANDS OF PLENTY. labour, there are good openings for a limited number of small tenant-farmers with a good stock of energy and fairly supplied with means. For carpenters, joiners, cabinet-makers, able to start business for themselves and utilise the mag- nificent timber resources of the province, there are good openings. Thes^c and such as these, with a few miners, blacksujxfchs, choppers, log- gers, and backwoods labourers who have plenty of backbone to them and are not afraid of rough work, will find ample employment in Western British Columbia for generations to come. Professional gentlemen and clerks of the needy or " expectant '* class will do better else- where. The cost of living is about the same as in England. Clothing and most descrip- tions of groceries are dearer than in England, while meat, game, and fish are cheaper. House- rents in the two countries are about the same. As hay, potatoes, and other farm products are still largely imported from the United States in spite of customs duty and cost of freight, it is quite evident that there are eligible openings for a few farmers who understand their busi- ness. A late resident in, and writer on, the province, says : " A really good farmer, with a capital of jg 1,000, could make a fortune in five BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 131 years by taking a cleared prairie farm near one of the towns, and using American agricul- turrl machinery to reduce the cost of labour, which is the all-absorbing item of expense in British Columbia/' Something more than the money will be found necessary, but there is no doubt about the result if the right means are employed. Routes, Fakes, &c. — These will greatly vary according to the means and time at the dis- posal of the traveller. Those wishing to see Canada or the United States en route from the old country will of course proceed by Atlantic steamer to Quebec, Halifax, Boston, or New York, and thence by rail via Chicago and Omaha, to San Francisco, whence a steamer plies weekly to Victoria, V.I. This is the shortest and most direct route, but it is at the same time the most expensive. The journey may be made comfortably in three weeks, though four should be allowed, at a cost of from i^35 to £oO exclusive of hotel bills. Route 2 {vid Portland) is same as Route 1 to Sacramento, California, and thence vid Red- ding, 169 miles, and Roseburg, 275 miles, by stage; and thence 200 miles by Oregon and 9 * 132 LANDS OF PLENTY. California Railway to Portland, distant 728 miles from San Francisco. From Portland, Victoria can be reached in about two days via Tacoma and Port Townsend, by Northern Pacific Railway and steamer on Puget Sound, as already described. For those fond of sea life and coast-steaming there are also the American all-steamer routes via Panama and San Francisco. While to the enthusiastic and adventurous land-hunter, or the hunter, angler, or artist, who, with knap- sack or " kreel " on back, and gun or rod and net in hand, is bent on the pleasures of the lake, river, forest, and field, and of pourtraying as well as partaking of the beauties of nature (no- where perhaps more prodigal of her picturesque charms than on the border-lands of British dominion in North America), there is left the romantic, though often rugged, overland route described at intervals in the foregoing pages, viz. that via Duluth. Winnipeg, and Edmonton. To those to whom sight-seeing is not an object and the saving of money is, I would recommend the sailing vessel direct from a British port to Victoria There are one or two fast-sailing clipper ships belonging to various well known lines^ which are occasionally de- BEITISH COLUMBIA, ETC. 133 spatched from London and Liverpool. On these saloon cabiu; and sometimes emigrant passages may be secured on short notice and at slightly reduced rates. The voyage out, in favourable seasons, is usually made in five to six months, and the intending colonist arrives at his des- tination with the best possible preparation for going to work. We have dwelt at increased length on what British Columbia has to offer to the traveller or settler in search of health, sport, or profit, for two reasons — first, because it has had little said about it, comparatively I mean with other provinces and states to the south and east of it; and, second, because it has been misrepresented. We have endeavoured to point out its advantages, and they are not few. We will now, and in conclusion, speak of its wants. Though few, they are both positive and pressing. The paramount needs of British Columbia are population, capital, and increased means of transport and communication with the outer world. In no way can these be sup- plied so completely or so liberally as by the completion of the Dominion Railway. No wonder, then, that the loyal and sober colonists made the permanent construction of such a 134 LANDS OF PLENTY. road through a portion of their fine province a condition of their joining the Dominion Con- federacy, and its completion within the specified time of ten years a subject for urgent appeal to the Ottawa Government. With the building of this great inter-provincial and international highway, affbrding an outlet to either side of the continent, and the further opening up and development of her undoubted resources I -r railway lines within her own territory, both these wants will be supplied, and this grand province, concerning which so little has been hitherto known, will take its appropriate place among the Lands of Plenty in British North America. In Vancouver alone she possesses an inexhaustible mine of wealth. Esquimault will, in time of need, prove a valuable coaling sta- tion for our North Pacific squadron, and, when adequately defended, a splendid naval station. The recently appointed Royal Commission on our Colonial Defences have a special duty to per- form in that quarter, which British Columbians will rejoice to see promptly performed. ':■ fi APPEI^DIX '• .■ ■ * 137 APPENDIX. DOMINION LANDS, HOMESTEAD RIGHTS, &c. The administration and management of the Public Lands in Canada is effected through a Branch of the Department of the Minister of the Interior, known as " the Dominion Lands Office." The only lands now held by the Federal Go- vernment in the older provinces are Ordnance and Admiralty reserves. In Manitobah and the North- West territories, however, it holds vast tracts of rich agricultural land, which are open to settlement. The surveys divide the lands into quadri- lateral townships, containing thirty-six sections of one mile square in each, together with road 138 LANDS OF PLENTY. allowances of one chain and fifty links in width, between all townships and sections. Each section of 640 acres is divided into half sections of 320 acres. All townships and lots are rectangular, vide accompanying map. To facili- tate the descriptions for Letters Patent of less than a half-quarter section, the quarter sections composing every section in accordance with the boundaries of the same, as planted or placed in the original survey, shall be supposed to be divided into quarter sections, or forty acres. The area of any legal subdivision in Letters Patent shall be held to be more or less, and shall, in each case, be represented by the exact quantity as given to such subdivision in the original survey ; provided that nothing in the Act shall be construed to prevent the lands upon the Red and Assiniboine rivers, surren- dered by the Indians to the late Earl of Selkirk, from being laid out in such manner as may be necessary in order to carry out the clause of the Act to prevent fractional sections or lands bor- dering on any rivers, lake, or other watercourse or public road from being divided ; or such lands from being laid out in lots of any certain front- age and depth, in such manner as may appear desirable ; or to prevent the subdivision of sec- tions, or other legal subdivisions into wood lots ; or from describing the said lands upon the Red and Assiniboine rivers, or such subdivisions of wood lots, for patent, by numbers according to a plan of record, or by metes and bounds, or by both, as may seem expedient. APPENDIX. 139 PRICE OF DOMINION LANDS. Unappropriated Dominion lands may at pre- sent be purchased at the rate of 1 dol. 30 cents per acre; but no purchase of more than a section, or 640 acres, shall be made by the same person. Payments of purchases to be made in cash. The Minister of the Interior may, however, from time to time, reserve tracts of land, as he may deem expedient, for town or village plots, such lots to be sold either by private sale, and for such price as he may see fit, or at public auction. The Go- vernor in Council may set apart lands for other public purposes, such as sites of market-places, jails, court-houses, places of public worship, burying-grounds, schools, benevolent institu- tions, squares, and for other like public pur- poses. FREE GRANTS AND HOMESTEAD RIGHTS. Free grants of quarter sections, 160 acres, are made to any male or female who is the head of a family, or to any male not the head of a family who has attained the age of 18 years, on condition of three years^ settlement, from the time of entering upon possession. A person entering for a homestead may also enter the adjoining quarter section, if vacant, as a pre-emption right, and enter into imme- diate possession thereof, and on fulfilling the conditions of his homestead, may obtain a 140 LANDS OP PLENTY. patent for his pre-emption right on payment for the same at the rate of one dollar per acre. When two or more persons have settled on, and seek to obtain a title to^ the same land^ the homestead right shall be in him who made the first settlement. If both have made improve- ments, a division of the land may be ordered in such manner as may preserve to the said parties their several improvements. Questions as to the homestead right arising between different settlers shall be investigated by the Local Agent of the division in which the land is situate, whose report shall be re- ferred to the Minister of the Interior for his decision. Every person claiming a homestead right from actual settlement must file his application for such claim with the Local Agent, previously to such settlement, if in surveyed lands ; if in unsurveyed lands, within three months after such land shall have been surveyed. No patent will be granted for land till the expiration of three years from the time of entering into possession of it. When both parents die without having de- vised the land, and leave a child or children under age, it shall be lawful for the executors (if any) of the last surviving parent, or the guardian of such child or children, with the approval of a Judge of a Superior Court of the Province or Territory in which the lands lie, to sell the lands for the benefit of the infant or infants, but for no other purpose; APPENDIX. 141 and the purchaser in such a case shall acquire the homestead right by such purchase, and on carrying out the unperformed conditions of such right, shall receive a patent for the land, upon payment of the office fees, 10 dollars. The title to lands shall remain in the Crown until the issue of the patent therefor, and such lands shall not be liable to be taken in execu- tion before the issue of the patent. If a settler voluntarily relinquishes his claim, or has been absent from the land entered by him for more than six months in any one year, then the right to such land shall be forfeited. A patent may be obtained by any person before three years, on payment of price at the date of entry, and making proof of settlement and cultivation for not less than twelve months from date of entry. All assignments and transfers of homestead rights before the issue of the patent shall be null and void, but shall be deemed evidence of abandonment of the right. These provisions apply only to homesteads and not to lands set apart as timber lands, or to those on which coal or minerals, at the time of entry, are known to exist. GRAZING LANDS. Unoccupied Dominion lands may be leased to neighbouring settlers for grazing purposes ; but such lease shall contain a condition making such land liable for settlement or for sale at 142 LANDS OF PLENTY. any time during the term of such lease, with- out compensation, save by a proportionate de- duction of rent, and a further condition by which, on a notice of two years, the Minister of the Interior may cancel the lease at any time during the term. Unoccupied Dominion lands will be leased to neighbouring settlers for the purpose of cutting hay thereon, but not to the hindrance of the sale and settlement thereof. MINING \NDS. As respects mining lands, no reservations of gold, silver, iron, copper, or other mines or minerals will be inserted in any patent from the Crown, granting any portion of the Domi- nion lands. Any person may explore for mines or minerals on any of the Dominion public lauds, surveyed or unsurveyed, and, subject to certain provisions, may purchase the same. As respects coal lands, they cannot be taken for homesteads. TIMBER LANDS. Provisions are made in the Act for disposing of the timber lands so as to benefit the greatest possible number of settlers, and to prevent any petty monopoly. In the subdivision of townships, consisting partly of prairie and partly of timber land, such of the sections as APPENDIX. 143 contain islands, belts or other tracts of timber, may be subdivided into such number of wood lots, of not less than ten and not more than twenty acres in each lot, as will afford one such wood lot to each quarter section prairie farm in such townsliip. The Local Agent, as settlers aj)ply for home- stead rights in a township, shall, if required, apportion to each quarter section one of the adjacent wood lots, which shall be paid for by the applicant .'it the rate of 1 dol. per acre. When the claimant has fulfilled all require- ments of the Act a patent will issue to him for such wood lot. Any homestead claimant who, previous to the issue of the patent, shall sell any of the timber ou his claim, or on the wood lot apper- taining to his claim, to saw-mill proprietors, or to any other than settlers for their own private use, shall be guilty of a trespass and may be prosecuted therefor, and shall forfeit his claim absolutely. The word timber includes all lumber, and all products of timber, including firewood or bark. The right of cutting timber shall be put up at a bonus per square mile, varying according to the situation and value of the limit, and sold to the highest bidder by competition, either by tender or by public auction. The purchaser shall receive a lease for twency- one years, granting the right of cutting timber on the land, with the following conditions : 144 LANDS OF PLENTY. To erect a saw mill or mills in connection with such limit or lease, of a capacity to cut at the rate of 1,000 feet broad measure in twenty-four hours, for every two and a half square miles of limits in the lease, or to esta- blish such other manufactory of wooden goods, the equivalent of such mill or mills, and the lessee to work the limit within two years from the date thereof, and during each succeeding year of the term ; To take from every tree he cuts down all the timber fit for use, and manufacture the same into sawn lumber or some other saleable product ; To prevent all unnecessary destruction of growing timber on the part of his men, and to prevent the origin and spread of fires ; To make monthly returns to Government of the quantity sold or disposed of — of all sawn lumber, timber, cordwood, bark, &c., and the price and value thereof ; To pay, in addition to the bonus, an annual ground-rent of 2 dols. per square mile, and, fiirther, a royalty of 5 per cent, on his monthly account ; To keep correct books, and submit the same for the inspection of the collector of dues whenever required. The lease shall be subject to forfeiture for infraction of any of the conditions to which it is subject, or for any fraudulent turn. The lessee who faithfully carries out these conditions shall have the refusal of the same APPENDIX. 145 limits, if not required for settlement, for afurther term not exceeding twenty-one years, on pay- ment of the same amount of bonus per square mile as was paid originally, and on such lessee agreeing to such conditions, and to pay such other rates as may be determined on for such second term. The standard measure used in the surveys of the Dominion is the English measure of length. Dues to the Crown are to bear interest, and to be a lien on timber, cut on limits. Such timber may be seized and sold in payment. Any person cutting timber without authority on any Dominion lands, shall, in addition to the loss of his labour and disbursements, forfeit a sum not exceeding 3 dols. for each tree he is proved to have cut down. Timber seized, as forfeited, shall be deemed to be condemned in default of owner claiming it within one moLth. FORM OF APPLICATION FOR A HOMESTEAD RIGHT. I, of do hereby apply to be entered, under the provisions of the Act re- specting the Public Lands of the Dominion for quarter sections numbers and forming part of section number of the Township of containing acres, for the purpose of se- curing a homestead right in respect thereof. 10 146 LANDS OF PLENTY. AFFIDAVIT IN SUPPORT OF CLAIM FOR HOME- STEAD RIGHT. I, A.B., do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be), that I am over eighteen years of age ; that I have not previously ob- tained a homestead under the provisions of the " Dominion Lands Act " ; that the land in question belongs to the class open for home- stead entry ; that there is no person residing or having improvements thereon ; and that my application is made for my exclusive use and benefit, and with the intention to reside upon and cultivate the said laud — So help me God. On making this affidavit and filing it with the Local Agent, and on payment to him of an office fee of 10 dols. he shall be permitted to enter the land specified in the application. COLONISATION. If any person or persons undertake to settle any of the public lauds of the Dominion free of expense to the Government, in the pro- portion of one family to each alternate quarter section, or not less than sixty-four families in any township, under the Homestead provisions of the Act hereby amended, the Governor in Council may withdraw any such township from public sale and general settlement, and may, if he thinks proper, having reference to the settlement so effected and to the expense APPENDIX. 147 incurred by such person or persons in pro- curing the same, order the sale of any other and additional lands in such township to such person or persons at a reduced price, and may make all necessary conditions and agreements for carrying the same into effect. The expenses, or any part thereof, incurred by any person or persons, for the passage- money or subsistence in bringing out an im- migrant, or for aid in erecting buildings on the homestead, or in providing farm imple- ments or seed for such immigrant, may, if so agreed upon by the parties, be made a charge on the homestead of such immigrant, and, in case of such immigrant attempting to evade such liability by obtaining a homestead entry outside of the land withdrawn under the pro- vision of the next preceding section, then, and in such case, the expense incurred on behalf of such immigrant, as above, shall become a charge on the homestead so entered, which, with interest thereon, must be satisfied before a patent shall issue for the land ; provided as follows : — [a.) That the sum or sums charged for the passage-money and subsistence of such immi- grant shall not be in excess of the actual cost of the same as proved to the satisfaction of the Minister of the Interior ; (b.) That an acknowledgment by such im- migrant of the debt so incurred shall have been filed in the Dominion Lands Office ; (c.) That, in no case, shall the charge for 10 * 148 LANDS OF PLENTY. principal moneys advanced against such home- stead exceed in amount the sum of two hundred dollars ; {d.) That no greater rate of interest than six per cent, per annum shall be charged on the debt so incurred by such immigrant. FOREST TREE CULTURE. Any person, male or female, being a subject of Her Majesty by birth or naturalization, and having attained the age of eighteen years, shall be entitled to be entered for one quarter section or less quantity of unappropriated Do- minion lands as a claim for forest tree planting. Application for such entry shall be made in the forms prescribed in the Dominion Lands Act, which may be obtained from the local ageut, and the person applying shall pay at the time of applying an oflSce fee of 10 dols., for which he or she shall receive a receipt and also a certificate of entry, and shall there- upon be entitled to enter into possession of the land. No patent shall issue for the land so entered until the expiration of six years from the date of entering into possession thereof; and any assignment of such land shall be null and void, unless permission to make the same shall have been previously obtained from the Minister of the Interior. At the expiration of six years the person APPENDIX. 149 who obtained the entry, or, if not living, his or her legal representative or assigns, shall receive a patent for the land so entered, on proof to the satisfaction of the Local Agent as follows : — 1. That eight acres of the land entered had been broken and prepared for t "^.e plant- ing within one year after entry, an equal quantity during the second year, and sixteen additional acres within the third year after such date; 2. That eight acres of the land entered had been planted with forest trees during the second year, an equal quantity during the third year, and sixteen additional acres within four years from the date of entry, the trees so planted not being less than twelve feet apart each way ; 3. That the above area, that is to say, one- fifth of the land, has, for the last two years of the term, been planted with timber, and that the latter has been regularly and well culti- vated and protected from the time of planting. The entry of a quarter section for pre-emption in connection with homestead may be substi- tuted in whole or part for tree planting. LAND SCEIP AND EESERVES. There are three kinds of scrip : — 1. The certificates issued to soldiers for military services performed to the Dominion — in other words, military bounty land war- rants. 150 LANDS OF PLENTY. 2. Similar certificates are issued by the authority of law for services rendered to the Govemment in the North- West Mounted Police. These two certificates, if located by the owner, may only be entered in quarter sec- tions of land, 160 acres intact. A number of these warrants, however, may be acquired by any individual, and may be used to pay for land in the same way as cash. Both military and police warrants may be purchased and are assignable, and whoever holds them for the time being, under a proper form of assignment, can exercise full owner- ship over them either in the locating or paying for land; but the first assignment from the soldier or policeman, as the case may be, must be endorsed on the back of the warrant. No affidavit is necessary where the assign- ment is endorsed, but the execution of the as- signment must be witnessed either by a Com- missioner for taking affidavits or by a justice of the peace. Any subsequent assignment may be upon a separate paper, but must be regularly attested before a Commissioner, and accompany the warrant in its transmission to the Land Office. 3. The third kind of scrip is that issued to the half-breed heads of families and to old set- tlers in the Province, under recent Acts. A claim against the Government for lands may, by law, be committed by an issue of scrip which would be in form similar to that issued f". APPENDIX. 151 to the half-breed heads of families and old set- tlers before mentioned. This scrip is a personalty, and there is no assignment thereof necessary to transfer the ownership. The bearer for the time being is heir" to be the owner, and we accept it in the Dominion Lands Office, in payment for Domi- nion lands, the same as cash. The Surveyor-General stated further, in answer to a question, that land scrip cannot be used in payment of the half-breeds' claims ; and explained that the land set apart for half- breeds, under the Manitobah Act, was an abso- lute grant to the children. The extent to which lands belonging to minors will be tied up will depend greatly upon whether steps be taken to appoint trustees who would be able to make sales, or upon such other measure as the Government might see fit to adopt, with the view of bringing these lands into the market. The only other Reserves in the Province are those of the Mennonites, which are rapidly filling up. There is still a very considerable extent of excellent land in the Province now available for settlement, but it can easily be understood the people who have been going into the Province for the last four or five years have selected the most favourable locations, and, consequently, the most of the good land in those localities have been taken up. The lands remaining, although generally desirable, are not so conveniently situated. 152 LANDS OP PLENTY. The Province of Manitobah contains nearly nine millions of acres. The Railway Reserve contains about 1,900,000 acres, and the Mennonite townships about 500,000 acres. The Hudson's Bay Company's one-twen- tieth contains about 430,000 acres. There are granted for school purposes two whole sections, or 1,280 acres, being sections 11 and 29 in each township, which are, by law, dedicated throughout the whole North- West for educational purposes, and the grant amounts, in Manitobah, to 400,000 acres.* In Manitobah the greatest quantity of land available for settlement is in the west and south-west. The extent of railway located in the Province is about 158 miles ; the main line of the Canada Pacific Railway about 11 miles, and the Pem- bina Branch about 81 miles. Road allowances are laid out on the ground in the townships in Manitobah, which corre- spond to concessions and side roads in Ontario and Quebec. Each section or square mile there is surrounded by an avenue of 99 feet, or a chain and a half, in width, resulting in a mag- nificent dedication to the public for highways. Q. Are any of the lands fi'onting on the main river in Manitobah available for settle- ment ? — None, with the exception of lands on • Sections 8 and 26 (Hudson's Bay lands) and 11 and 29 (school lands) are specially excluded from settlement. APPENDIX. 153 the Assiniboine river, above Prairie Portage. As a rule, the lands on the Red river and Assi- niboine river were laid out and settled upon, previous to the transfer, in narrow frontages, running back two miles, called the " Settlement Belt," and the township lands available for sale and settlement lie outside of this Belt. There are many unoccupied lots in the Settle- ment Belt, but people are not allowed to enter them, as thev are considered to possess a spe- cial value. The intention is, shortly, to offer the unoccupied lots belonging to the Govern- ment, in the Settlement Belt, at public auction, at an upset price, with conditions of actual set- tlement upon the land. FAEES AND TRANSPORT OF EMIGRANTS. {The following Rates were charged during the Season of 1878. They have been since slightly increased.) From Toronco or Hamilton via the Lakes and Duluth to Winnipeg : — 1st Class 42 dols. 50 cents. 2nd or Emigrant Class 21 dols. From Sarnia, Goderich, Kincardine, South- ampton or Windsor to Winnipeg : — 1st Class 40 dols. 2nd or Emigrant Class 20 doJs. Weight of Emigrants' baggage allowed, 150 lbs. 154 LANDS OF PLENTY. Emigrants' effects by the car load are charged as follows: — From Brockville to Fisher's Landing, one car, 200 dols. ; at this rate a span of horses would cost about 35 dols. ; or one horse and a cow about 17 dols. 50 cents, each. They might be driven from Fisher's Landing to Winnipeg. From Toronto or Hamilton to Winnipeg, one car, 260 dols. From Sarnia, Windsor, Goderich, Kincar- dine and Southampton to Winnipeg, one car- 245 dols. Special arrangements have been made by the Grand Trunk Company for emigrants going to Winnipeg in parties. To obtain the benefit of such arrangements special application should be made in the case of each party. This may be done either directly to the head offices of the Company in London, 21, Old Broad Street, E.G., or through any of the Dominion Govern- ment Immigration Agents. Special rates will be granted over the Inter- colonial and Grand Trunk Railways to emi- grants for Manitobah or parts of the North- West on the order of any of the Dominion Agents, at the rate of Id. a mile to Toronto, where the special rates above quoted to Winni- peg begin. Through tickets for Winnipeg (St. Boniface) may be obtained in England of the railway or steamship companies or their agents, at rates ranging from £23 to jg28, 1st Class, and intermediate and steerage for j^lO to £16. APPENDIX. 155 EMIGEATION TO MANITOBAH AND THE NOETH-WEST TERRITORY. NOTICE. Emigrants may obtain information respecting Manitobah, Routes, and Rates of Passage, from Dominion Government, Department of Agriculture. GOVERNMENT IMMIGRATION AGENTS IN CANADA. ADDRESSES : Halifax, N.S.—E&^'in Clay, M.D. St. John, N.B. — 11. Shives. Quebec. — L. Stafford, old Custom House, and Grand Trunk Station, Point Levis, where he is always in attendance on the arrival of the mail steamers, passenger vessels, and on the departure of all immigrant trains. Montreal. — John J. Daley. Sherbrooke. — Henry Hubbard. Ottaiva. — W. J. Wills, St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railway Station. Kingston. — R. Macpherson, William Street. Toronto. — John A. Donaldson, Immigrant Depot, cor. Strachan Ave. Hamilton. — John Smith, Great Western Rail- way wharf (opposite Station). 156 LANDS OF PLENTY. London, Ontario. — A. G. Smythe. Winnipeg, Manitohah. — W. Hespeler. Dufferin, Manitohah. — J. E. Tetu. Duluth, Lake Superior. — W. B. Grahame, during season of navigation. GOVERNMENT IMMIGRATION AGENTS IN GREAT BRITAIN AND EUROPE. ADDRESSES : London. — Hon. Wm. Annand, Canadian Go- vernment Emigration Agent, 31, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.G. Liverpool. — John Dyke, Alexandra Build- ings. Belfast. — Chas. Foy, 29, Victoria Place. Hamburg. — J. E. Klotz (Klotz Brothers). LANDS NOW AVAILABLE FOR SETTLE- MENT IN MANITOBAH, KEEWATIN, AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. The Secretary of the Department of Agri- culture having, at the request of the Minister of Agriculture, made an inquiry of the Sur- veyor-General, respecting the lands now actually available in the Province of Manitohah, Keewa- tin, and North- West Territory, for the purpose APPENDIX. 157 of information of the numerous emigrants who &re now proceeding to the North- West, the following letter was written to explain the facts. Department op the Interior, Surveyor General's Office, Ottawa, 6th April, 1878. Sir, — Referring to our conversation of this morning, I now beg to enclose you a copy of an Order in Council, dated the 9th November last, setting forth the conditions upon which persons will be allowed to settle upon lands reserved for railway purposes in Manitobah. I may say that the lands so far reserved for railway purposes are those for twenty miles on each side of the main line surveyed for the Canadian Pacific Railway. It is probable that lands which may be settled on within the Railway Reserve outside the Province, so long as they form no part of a Reserve for town plot purposes, such as at Battleford, may, on being included within the Township Surveys, be acquired on the terms of the Order in Council. With regard to your inquiries as to the lands open for general settlement outside of townships especially reserved for colonization or for half-breeds, I beg to remark that a very large area of desirable lands is open for entry in the several portions of the Province described as follows : 1. The lands on each side of the Canadian 158 LAIRDS OF PLENTY. Pacific Railway line through the Province not reserved for half-breeds are open for settlement upon the conditions set forth in the Order in Council enclosed. 2. There are a number of townships avail- able to the east and north-east of Emerson. 3. Between the Mennonite Reserve west of the Red River, and the half-breed Reserve to the north, and in the townships within and to the west and south-west of what is known as the Pembina Mountain Settlement. 4. In the vicinity of Palestine and the Beautiful Plain. 5. A very extensive district containing valu- able lands for settlement is found in the Little Saskatchewan and Riding Mountain country, being in the Territories from ten to forty miles west of the westerly limits of the Province. 6. The land fronting on the north side of the Rainy River in Keewatin, is of excellent quality, and presents an extensive field for settlement. It is a wooded country, however, and there- fore requires a greater expenditure ^f labour to bring a given area under cultivatit . In reply to your inquiry as to the position of people who may settle upon unsurveyed lands, I beg to say that in all such cases per- sons so settling must take their chances of being found on land which may prove to belong to the Hudson^s Bay Company, part of the one-twentieth reserved to the said Com- pany by the Deed of Surrender. APPENDIX. 159 In the regular township surveys, sections 8 and 26 represent this one-twentieth, but in the river belts the Company's proportion will probably be determined by lot. The Dominion Lands Act provides that when the township surveys may embrace settlements previously formed (on land open at the time for general settlement), such settlers will be confirmed in their several holdings as home- steads, up to the extent of one hundred and sixty acres, in legal subdivisions, including their improvements. Settlers on land within the limits of the Railway Reserve having taken up the same after the date of the 9th November 1877, will require to pay for the lands in accordance with the provisions of the Order in Council of that date. Those persons who nay be found settled upon the borders of navigable rivers, such as the north and south branches of the Saskatch- ewan, outside of the Railway Reserve, will be confirmed in possession of the lands on which they may have settled, provided they conform to such conditions as the Government may have made in respect of the manner in which title for such lands may be acquired. I have the honour, &c., L. S. Dennis, Surveyor-General. John Lowe, Esq., Secretary, Department of Agriculture and Immigration, Ottawa. 160 LANDS OF PLENTY. ORDEE IN COUNCIL EESPECTINO THE SETTLEMENT OF RAILWAY LANDS. Copy of a Report of Committee of the Honourable Privy Council, approved by His Excellency the Governor-General in Council, on thedth November 1877. On a Report, dated 30th October 1877, from the Hon. the Minister of the Interior, stating that in -onsequence of the rapidly increasing demand for lands for settlement in Manitobah, and also of the continued dissatisfaction of the locking up of the lands withdrawn for twenty miles on each side of the line surveyed for the Canadian Pacific Railway by the Order in Council of the 20th December 1874, he is of opinion that it is expedient to effect some ame- lioration of the conditions of the said Order in Council so far as relates to the lands within the Province. He therefore, recommends that the lands in Manitobah withdrawn as above be thrown open to actual settlement, but not for homestead or pre-emptive entry, or for entry by military bounty or police warrants, or for ordinary sale. No person to be allowed to acquire more than one half section or 320 acres, and such land to be paid for by the occupant at whatever rate and upon such terms as may be fixed therefor by the Government when the remainder of the lands in the Province, of this class, are dis- posed of. APPENDIX. 161 He further recommends that persons desiring to acquire such lands shall, previous to settle- ment thereon, be required to be entered there- for at the nearest Dominion Lands Office, and in order to prove their good faith, the applicants shall be obliged, in each case, to make a payment, in advance, at the time of entry, of 1 dol. per acre, in cash on account of the purchase, and further be required to settle on and commence to cultivate the land within one year from the date of entry, or in de- fault thereof the payment so made to be forfeited. No scrip of any kind, or military bounty, or police warrants to be receivable in payment of the lands above described. The Minister observes that the withdrawal of the lands in question was effected under section 105 of the Dominion Lands Act, circumstances not permitting the application thereto of the Act, 73 Vic. cap. 14, which pro- vides for the construction of the railway, and as no statute exists authorising the special mode above suggested of disposing of the lands withdrawn, it will be advisable to confirm the action proposed to be taken as above in that respect by legislation during the ensuing session of Parliament. The Committee concur in the foregoing Report, and recommend that the same be approved and acted on. Certified. (Signed) W. A. Himsworth, C. P. C. 162 LANDS OF PLENTY. MOOSE-HUNTING. A NOVA SCOTIAN " BARREN." — CAMPING OUT. — " MICMAC " INDIANS. MOOSE " CREEPING." THE CARIBOO, ETC. New Brunswick and Nova Scotia contain the best moose-hunting grounds in Canada. As these countries become settled, and wild land continues to be brought under cultivation, the hunting of these " monarchs of the forest and the glen'' will become a less exciting and there- fore less attractive sport. But this animal wonderfully adapts itself to civilisation. A young moose will become as tame as a domestic cow in a short time. They may frequently be seen feeding within a few hundred yards of a public road. Even the passing of a railway train at times scarcely disturbs them. " Their sense of hearing is developed in a wonderful degree, and they appear to be possessed of some marvellous power of discriminating be- APPENDIX. 165 tween innocent sounds and noises which indi- cate danger. On a windy day, when the forest is full of noises — trees cracking, branches snapping, and twigs breaking — the moose will take no notice of all these natural sounds ; but if a man breaks a twig, or, treading on a dry stick, snaps it on the ground, the moose will distinguish that sound from the hundred voices of the storm, and be off in a second." The scenery of the Nova Scotian woods can- not be fairly described as either grand or mag- nificent ; yet there is a weird, desolate, sombre sort of beauty about her barrens, a melan- choly yet soothing loveliness in her lakes and forest glades in summer, a gorgeousiiess of colour in her autumn forest tints, and a stern sad stateliness in her winter aspects, unsur- passed in any land. But, first, what is a " barren " ? Barrens. — In Newfoundland this name is given to high and comparatively dry plateaus of land many miles in extent. In Nova Scotia and New Brunswick the " barren," properly so called, is an open space, varying in size from a few acres to a plain five or six miles in extent. They closely resemble the numerous island- studded sheets of water with which these pro- vinces are so abundantly supplied, and have, indeed, all the appearance of dry lakes. Camping out. — Having selected a "barren," the first thing for the hunter's consideration is to prepare a lair for himself — in other words, to make his bed. A birch-bark camp is made in 11 * 164 LANDS OF PLENTY. more ways than one. Almost every trapper has his own peculiar conceit about its con- struction. The simplest, and perhaps, on the whole, the best plan is to build it in the form of a square, adapting its size to the number of people it is designed to accommodate. A suitable level spot being chosen, and the shrubs and rubbish removed, you proceed to make four low walls, composed of two or three suitable-sized pine logs laid one on the other. These form the basement or foundation of your temporary home. On them you erect the framework of the camp. This consists of light thin poles, the lower ends being struck into the upper service of the pine trees which form the walls, and the upper ends leaning against and supporting each other. These poles are then thatched with large strips of birch-tree bark to within a foot or two of the top. The aperture thus left serves as the chimney. Other poles are then laid upon the sheets of birch bark to keep them in their places. A small doorway is left in one side, and a door is constructed out of slabs of wood, or out of the skin of some animal. The uppermost log is hewn through with an axe, so that the wall shall not be inconveniently high to step over, and the hut or " camp,^^ externally, is finished. Such a camp is perfectly impervious to wind or weather, or rather can be made so by filling up the joints and cracks between the sheets of birch bark and the interstices between the pine logs with moss and dry leaves. You next level APPENDIX. 165 off the ground inside, and on three sides of the square strew it thickly with the small tops of the sapin or Canada-balsam fir, for a breadth of about four feet ; then take some long pliant ash saplings or withy rods, and peg tliem down along the edge of the pine tops to keep your bed or carpet in its place, leaving a bare space in the centre of the hut, where you make your fire. Two or three rough slabs of pine to act as shelves must then be fixed into the wall, a couple of " portage- straps " or " tump-lines " stretched across, on which to hang your clothes, and the habitation is complete. In the circular camp the poles on which the bark is laid are stuck into the ground instead of into low walls. The material and labour to be expended is pretty much the same in both, but nearly double the amount of room is obtained in the square camp. It may, there- fore, be safely recommended. In the depth of winter it is all but impossible to warm a tent thoroughly, either from the inside or outside. The ^^ lean-to'^ or bed out-doors may then be resorted to. The name of this backwoods contrivance explains itself. It is built as fol- lows : — You strike two poles, having a fork at the upper end, into the ground, slanting back slightly; lay another fir pole horizontally be- tween the two, and resting in the crutch ; then place numerous poles and branches leaning against the horizontal pole, and thus form a framework which you cover in as well as you can with birch bark, pine boughs, pieces o£ 166 LANDS OP PLENTY. canvas, skins, or whatever material is most handy. You build an enormous fire in the front, and the camp is complete. The direction of the wind is an essential consideration in erecting this sort of a resting-place, for the " inmate,^' as the Irishman said, " is quite out of doors." Portage. — This word, literally translated as and synonymous with "carry,'' denotes the piece of dry ground separating two rivers or lakes over which it is necessary to transport canoes and baggage when travelling through the country. They are terms of general use throughout Canada. Traverse is another French word in common use among canoeers throughout the Dominion provinces. It signifies an open stretch of five or six miles of unsheltered water which it is designed to cross. A cache is a trapper or hunter's hiding or storing place. But before entering further into our hunter's vocabulary, let us say a few words about the canoe itself. A birch-bark canoe suitable for the Canadian waters is a fragile creature, and must be treated as such. " Fashioned so ten- derly," it must be handled with care. Arrived at your camping-ground or other stopping-place, you allow it to ground very carefully; step out into the water, take out all the bales, boxes, pots, pans, bedding, rifles, &c. ; lift up the canoe bodily, and turn her upside down for a few minutes to drain the water out. The Indian then turns her over, grasps the APPENDIX. 167 middle thwart with both hands, and with a sudden twist of the wrists heaves her up in the air, and deposits her upside down on his shoulders, and walks off with his burden. An ordinary-sized Micraac or Melicite canoe, such as one man can easily carry, weighs about 70 or 80 lbs., and will take two men and about 600 or 700 Ibs.-^ Hunter's Pack. — The necessary voyageur's outfit or impedimenta consists of the portage- strap or "tump line'' — which is most handy in camp as a clothes-line — his blanket, and such smaller articles as he designs carrying about him. The portage-strap is composed of strips of webbing or some such material, and is about twelve feet long, a length of about two feet in the centre being made of a piece of broad soft leather ; you lay your line on the blanket so that the leather part projects, and told the edges of the blanket over either portion of the strap. You then pile up the articles to be carried in the centre, double the blanket over them, and by hauling upon the two parts of * The Indians of New Brunswick are both Micmacs and Melicites or Amalecites. They number about 1,500, and are quiet, inoffensive, and improvident in their habits. The Nova Scotia Indians are all Micmacs, and are some- what more numerous and more industrious than those of the adjoining province. Those inhabiting the eastern shore and Cape Breton engage themselves in agriculture, fishing, and other industries. 168 LANDS OF PLENTY. the strap bring the blanket together at either side, so that nothing can fall out. You then cut a skewer of wood, stick it through the blanket in the centre, securely knot the strap at either end, and your pack is made. You have a compact bundle with the leather por- tion of the portage-strap projecting like a loop, which is passed over the head and shoul- ders, and the pack is carried on the back by means of the loop which passes across the chest. If the pack is very heavy, and the distance long, it is usual to make an additional band out ot a handkerchief or something of that kind, to attach it to the bundle, and pass it across the forehead, so as to take some of the pressure off the chest. The regular weight of a Hudson's Bay Company's package is 80 lbs.; but any Indian or half-breed will carry double this weight for a considerable distance without showing signs of distress. Conditions. — To return to the more especial object of this paper, moose- hunting. The moose is hunted in several ways. The most difficult and precarious, and therefore most exciting, mode is that of moose-calling , It commences with September, and lasts to mid-October, and consists in imitating the cry of the female moose, and thereby calling up the male. Four conditions are necessarv to successful moose- calling. Briefly stated they are — First, a per- fectly calm night. The scent of the moose is 80 acute that should there be a breath of wind astir he will detect the invader before he has a APPENDIX. 169 chance of seeing the moose, and be off on the instant. Second, a moonlight night. An hour before sunset until two hours after sunrise, tlie bull moose will answer. No moose will come up in the daytime. There is, therefore, but scant time for sport unless enjoyed during moonlight. Fourth, a dry, well-sheltered spot, convenient for calling, with a tolerably open space around it through which to watch the moose's movements. The following excract from the pen of that accomplished sportsman the Earl of Dunraven affords a life-like picture of this exciting sport : — " Having made these little preparations, I sat down and smoked my pipe while the Indian climbed up a neighbouring pine tree to ' call.' The only object of ascending a tree is that the sound may be carried further into the recesses of the forest. The instrument wherewith the caller endeavours to imitate the cry of the cow, consists of a cone-shaped tube made out of a sheet of birch bark rolled up. This horn is about eighteen inches in length and three or four in diameter at the broadest end, the narrow end being just large enough to fit the mouth. The ' caller ' uses it like a speaking- trumpet, groaning and roaring through it, imi- tating as well as he can the cry of the cow moose. Few white men can call really well, but some Indians, by long practice, can imi- tate the animal with wonderful success. For- tunately, however, no two moose appear to have precisely the same voice, but make all a5 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // V. 1.0 yi 125 ■ 30 I.I 1.25 ^ 1^ ■ 2.2 ISf 144 ■■ lit 140 1.8 U ■ 1.6 II 7 ^^. iV rv 170 LANDS OP PLENTY. kinds of strange and diabolical noises^ so that even a novice in the art may not despair of himself calling up a bull. The real difficulty — the time when you require a perfect mastery of the art — is when the bull is close by, sus- picious and listening with every fibre of its intensely accurate ear to detect any sound that may reveal the true nature of the animal he is approaching. The smallest hoarseness, the slightest wrong vibration, the least unnatural sound, will then prove fatal. The Indian will kneel on the ground, putting the broad end of the horn close to the earth so as to deaden the sound, and with an agonised ex- pression of countenance, will imitate with such marvellous fidelity the wailing, anxious, sup- plicating cry of the cow, that the bull, unable to resist, rushes out from the friendly cover of the trees, and exposes himself to death. Or it may be that the most accomplished caller fails to induce the suspicious animal to show himself : the more ignoble passion of jealousy must then be aroused. The Indian will grunt like an enraged bull, break dead branches from the trees, thrash his birch-bark horn against the bushes, thus making a noise exactly like a moose fighting the bushes with his antlers. The bull cannot bear the idea of a rival, and, casting his prudence to the winds, not unfrequeutly falls a victim to jealousy and rage.'' A Moose -YARD. — Occasionally a moose will answer, but nothing will induce him to come APPENDIX. 171 up. In the morning if there is a little wind you can resort to the only other legitimate way of hunting the moose, viz. "creeping," " still hunting," or stalking. After the rutting season, the moose begins to " yard," as it is termed. What is a yard ? The uninitiated tra- veller needs to be told that a moose does not travel straight on when he is in search of food; but selects a particular locality, and remains there as long as the supply of provisions holds out ; and that place is called a yard. Sometimes a solitary moose " yards " alone, sometimes two or three together, occasionally as many as half a dozen may be found con- gregated in one place. When a man says he has found a " moose-yard," he means that he has come across a place where it is evident from the tracks crossing and recrossing and intersecting each other in all directions, and from the signs of browsing on the trees, that one or more moose have settled down to feed for the winter. Having once selected a place or "yard," the moose will remain there till the following summer if the food holds out and they are not disturbed by man. If forced to leave their " yard," they will travel a long dis- tance — twenty or thirty miles — before choos- ing another feeding-ground. After the rutting season moose wander about in an uneasy state of mind for three weeks or so, and are not settled down again till early November. Moose - stalking. — Moose - stalking, or "creeping" is a most difficult and exciting 172 LANDS OP PLENTY. sport. The first thing to be done, of course, is to find a moose-yard. Having by dint of great caution and perseverance so far covered the ground where the moose is feeding that you feel morally certain the animal is in some par- ticular spot, the real difficulty, the critical moment is at hand. It is mere waste of time trying to creep ex- cept on a windy day, even with moccasins on ; and it is of no use at any time trying to creep a moose unless you are provided with soft leather moccasins. No human being can get within shot of a moose on a still day ; the best time is when windy weather succeeds a heavy fall of rain. Then the ground is soft, the little twigs strewed about bend instead of breaking, and the noise of the wind in the trees deadens the sound of your footsteps. If the ground is dry, and there is not much wind, it is impos- sible to get near the game. When you have determined that the moose is somewhere handy — when you come across perfectly fresh indi- cations of his presence — you proceed inch by inch ; you must not make the smallest noise ; the least crack of a dead branch or of a stick underfoot will start the animal. Especially careful must you be that nothing taps against your gun-stock, or that you do not strike the barrel against a tree, for, naturally, any such unusual sound is far worse thau the cracking of a stick. If, however, you succeed in imi- tating the noiseless movements and footsteps of your Indian, you will probably be rewarded APPENDIX. 173 by seeing him presently make a " point " like a pointer dog. Every quivering fibre in his body proves his excitement. * He will point out something dark to you among the trees. That dark mass is a moose^ and you must fire at it without being too careful what part of the animal you are going to hit, for probably the moose has heard you and is only waiting a secor^l before making up his mind to be off. Cariboo-hunting. — The cariboo is nearly identical with the reindeer of Europe, though larger. They are fond of getting on the lakes as soon as the ice thickens sufficiently, and of feeding round the shores. They cannot be run down, and the settlers rarely go in pursuit of them. They must be "stalked" on the bar- rens and hkes or crept up to in the woods, precisely in the same manner as the moose. And here we must close our brief and all too imperfect sketch of backwoods life and sport in sea-board Canada. 174 LANDS OF PLENTY. ACROSS THE CONTINENT FROM OCEAN TO OCEAN.* The railway system of Canada embraces six thousand miles of line now in operation^ and owned by forty-nine different companies. Of the fifty-nine states and kingdoms of the world possessing railway systems, Canada ranks eighth in absolute mileage, and fifth in mileage per capita of the population. In the construc- tion of these 6,000 miles, 2,183 miles, or rather more than one-third, have been built by the Dominion Government at a cost of upwards of £12,000,000 sterling. These are trunk or inter-provincial lines, and are known as the " Grand Trunk," " Intercolonial," and " Ca- nadian Pacific " railways. Th3 Great Western * The panoramic map and small map of Nora Scotia, New Brunswick, Ac, which accompany this work, should be referred to bj the reader in order to enable him to fully understand this and the following pages. APPENDIX. 175 Railway, embracing 866§ miles of line within the province of Ontario, is also a trunk Cana- dian line ; but as at present operated, it serves less the interests of the Dominion than as a feeder to the American lines terminating at Detroit and Niagara suspension bridge, and has no interest in common with the other Canadian lines. Of the three first-mentioned lines the Grand Trunk is the oldest and longest, the last link between Quebec and Riviere du Loup having been opened in 1860, just eight years after the incorporation of the Company. The Inter- colonial, the first section of which was opened between St. John and Shediac, New Bruns- wick, in 1860, was opened for traffic through- out its entire length between Halifax and the St. Lawrence in 1876 ; and the Canadian Pa- cific, as the British reader need not be told, is still in progress. These trunk lines, with their numerous branch and connecting roads, traverse the whole Dominion westward as far as Lake Win- nipeg, affording easy and expeditious com- munication to all points as far as the Great Lakes. The entire journey across the American continent within British territory may thus be properly divided and described under these several heads, viz. the Intercolonial, Grand Trunk, and Canadian Pacific lines. With the aid of the following route and dis- tance tables and the panoramic chart and smaller map which accompany this work, the 176 LANDS OP PLENTY. reader will be readily enabled to pursue his travels or inquiries in any and every part of the Dominion. The route is indicated from each of the principal steamship ports on the Atlantic sea-board, viz. Quebec, Halifax, and Portland. Halifax, being the most eastern, ahd therefore the nearest home will be treated first. THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. FROM HALIFAX, N.S., TO RIVIERE DU LOUP, QUEBEC. — THROUGH DISTANCE, 561 MILES. The Intercolonial Railway — to quote the words of its chief engineer and most graphic deli- neator, Mr. Sandford Fleming — is a work which realises the national aspirations of half a cen- tury by bringing within a few hours travel the old fortress of Halifax and the older citadel of Quebec, and which must form an important section of the railway destined ere long to extend from east to west " through the entire Dominion.'' It foims the first link in our chain of trans- continental travel. It is a splendid though circuitous line of railway, admirably constructed and ably man- aged, abounding in picturesque scenery, and will well repay the sight and health seeking tourist for the expense and possible fatigues of a journey over it. From an inspection of the accompanying map, and from the natural features of the country, it is at once apparent APPENDIX. . 177 that this forms by no means the shortest line which could have been selected for a railway route between the Atlantic sea- board and the St. Lawrence. The distance, between Mont- real and Halitax might, indeed, have been reduced nearly 200 miles below the length of the present line, but the traveller in search of health, sport, or pleasure will have little to complain of in traversing the road as now operated, unnecessarily long as it may appear to the practised eye o£ the engineer or sur- veyor. The following table exhibits the stations passed between Halifax and Riviere du Loup opposite the Saguenay river, where the Intercolonial and Grand Trunk lines connect. Much of the scenery passed on the journey between the sea- board and the St. Lawrence river is exceedingly picturesque and attractive. From Riviere du Loup the trip may be continued by railway or by steamer on the river. At Quebec the traveller bound for Toronto and the Great North- West of the Do- minion or the American Union, can make choice between the fine steamers of the " Champlain Company," which run daily and nightly between Quebec p^d Montreal, and the trains over the Grand Trank Railway. 12 I 178 LANDS OP PLENTY. INTERCOLONIAL LINE. Haufax, N.S., TO Riviere du Loup, Qdbbbc. MUea. Kalifkx. 8 Bedford. 13 Windsor June* 21 WeJlintftou. 28 Entield. aO Elmsdale. 35 Milford. 39 Shiibeiiiicadie. 44 Stewiocke. 52 Brooklield. 61 Tmro.t 73 Debert. 78 Londonderry. 90 Wentworth. 96 Greenville. 103 Thomson. 110 Kiver PMlip bridge. 121 Spring HUl. 126 Athol. 130 Maccan. 138 Amherst. 144 Auloc. 147 Sackville bridge. 159 Dorchester. 167 Memramcook. 179 Painsec JunctionJ 187 Mouctou. To St. John vid Sussex and Rothesay. Monoton. 10 Bouudary Cieek. 13 Salisbuiy. 18 Pollet River. 23 Petitcodiuc. 29 Anagance. 38 Penobsquis. 42 Plumweseep. 45 Sussex. 50 Apohaqui. 56 Norton. 62 Bloonitield. 63 Passekoag. 67 Hampton. * Windsor and Annapolis Railway and Western Counties railway via Kentville (70 miles) to Annapolis, 129 miles. t Branch to Pictou, 52 miles. X Connects at Shediac and Summerside with the Prince Edward Island Railway between Tignish and Georgetown. APPENDIX. 179 Halifax to Riviore du Loup — cont. Miles. Miles. 72 Nanwigowauk. 77 Qiiispamsia. 89 KotheHuy. 82 Riverside. 83 Torryburn. 85 Brookville. 86 Moosepsith. 89 8t. John, V.B. 195 Berry's Mills. 206 Caauan. 215 Coal Brancb, 224 Weldford. 235 Ferris. 244 Carleton. 255 Barnaby River tunnel. 259 Chatham June. 265 Miramichi (bridge). 275 Beaver Brook. 286 Bartibogue. 296 Red Pine (bridge). 309 Bathurst. 321 Petite Roche. 329 Bellediiue. 338 Jacquet River. 347 New Mills (bridge). 353 Charlo. 363 Dalhousie. 372 Campbellton. 385 MetaiKjdiac (bridge). 395 Mill Stream (bridge). 405 Assametquaghau 420 Caiisapscal (bridge). 433 Amqui (bridge). 441 Cedar Hall. 448 Sayabec. 458 Tartague. 468 St. Octave. 477 St. Flavie. 485 St. Luce. 495 Rimoustd (bridge).* 506 Bic. 515 St. Fabien. 525 St. Simon. 534 Trots Pistoles (bridge). 544 Isle Verte. 552 St. Arsene. 555 Cacouna. 561 Biviere da Lonp. * And ocean mail steamer station. 12 • 180 LANDS OF PLENTY. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. BiviEBE DU Loup to Quebec City. Miles. Blvier* da Loup. Lake Soad. St. Alexaudre. St. Andre. Ste. Helene. St. Pascal. St. Denis. Riviere Quelle. St. Anne. St. Koch. El^in Koad. St. Jean Port Joli. Trois Saumons. Ii'lBlet. L'Anse aOile. Cap St. If^nace. St. Thomas. St. Pierre. St. Francois ouBerthier. St. Valier. St. Michel. St. Charles. St. Henri. St. Jean Chrysostome. Chaudiere Curve. Hadlow. Quebec (Point Levi).' Quebec. Chaudiere Carve. Chaudierd. Craig's Rood. Black River. Methot's M. Lyster. St. Julie. Somerset. Stanfold. Artbabaaka. Warwick. Danville. &iolunoxid. Durham. Danby. Acton. Upton. St. Liboire. Britannia Mills. St. Kyadntlie. St. Kilaire. Beloeil. St. Bruno. St. Hubert. St. Lambert. Montreal. 6 12 16 19 25 30 35 41 48 52 56 61 64 68 71 78 83 86 91 95 101 109 114 118 124 126 7 9 15 20 29 37 41 49 55 64 72 84 96 106 110 118 124 127 130 137 150 151 157 162 165 172 » Quebec to Hochelaga by Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occidental Railway, 173 miles. APPENDIX. 181 MONTBBAL TO TORONTO. MUOB. Montreal. 2 Lacbine June. 10 Dorva?. 14 Pointe Claire. 21 St. Anne'a. 24 Vaudrenil. 31 St. Dominique. 37 Coteau Lauding. 43 Biver Beaudette. 48 BaiuBville. 54 Lanr aster. 50 Summerstown. 67 Oomwall. 72 Millc Roches. 77 Wales. 81 Farran's Point. 83 AiiltHville. 92 Morrisburg. 09 Matilda (Iroquois). 104 Edwardsburg. 112 Presoott Juno. Presoott. 1\ Prescott June. Switch. 2 Prescott Junction. 9 Spencerville. 16^ Oxford. 22^ KemptTille. 31 Osgoode. 39 Manotick. 43 Gloucester. 47 Chaudiere Junction. 54 Ottawa. 120 Maitland. 125 BrookTille. Brockville and Ottawa Railway. Brookvllle. 1 Grand Trunk Junction. 5 Fairtield. 7 Clark's. 10 Bellamy's, 12 Jelly's. 13 Bell's. 16 Wolford. 21 Irish Creek. 25 Story's. 28 Sndth'a Palls.* 80 Welsh's. 87 Franktown. 41 Beckwith. 45 Carleton Place Jimo.t * Branch to Perth, 12 miles, f Branch line to Ottawa, 29 miles. 182 LANDS OF PLENTY. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. Montreal to Toronto — cont. Miles. Ottawa. 29 Carleton Place. 35 Almonte. 44 PakenhaiH. 52 Amprior. 58 Sand Point. 71 Renfrew. 86 Cobden. Miles. 105 Pembroke.* 46 Carletou Place. 52 Almonte. 55 Suciden's. 61 Pakenham. 69 Amprior. 72 Braeside. MUes. 74 Sandpoint. 129 Lyn. 138 Mallorytowu. 146 Lansdowue. 155 Gananoque. 162 Ballantyue's. 172 Kingston. 180 Collin's Bay. 187 Emestown. 198 Napanee. 206 Tyendinaga. 213 Shannonville. 220 BeUeville. 232 Trenton. 241 Brighton. 249 Colbome. 256 Grafton. 264 Cobourg. 270 Port Hope. Midland Baihvay. Port Hope. 5 Quay's. 8 Perrytown. 9 Garden Hill. 14 Summit. 18 Millbrook. 5 Fraserville. 13 Peterboro'. 17 Nassau Ms. 22 Wakefield. 24 Bethany. 26 Brunswick. * Boats for Des Joachim, Deux Rivieres, Mattawaw, and the sporting fields of the Upper Ottawa river. APPENDIX. 183 Montreal to Toronto — cont. Miles. 28 Franklin. 33 Omemee. 37 Keaboro'. 43 Undsay. 48 Cambray. 53 Oakwood. 57 Woodville.* 65 Beaverton. 69 Gambridge. 73 Brechin. 76 Schepeler. 80 Uptergrove. 83 Atherly. 84 Couchiching. 86 Orillia. 90 Silver Creek. 94 Uthoff. 97 S't'rthwaite. 101 Coldwater. 104 Fesserton. Miles. 106 Wabaushene. 279 Newtonville. 286 Newcastle. 290 Bowmanville. 299 Oshawa. 303 Whitby. 310 Duffin's Creek. 316 Port Union. 322 Scarboro'. 333 Toronto. The through distance by rail from Quebec to Ottawa via Prescott is 328 miles, and via Brockville 361 miles. The steamers on the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers during the summer months afford most delightful trips for pleasure tourists. Toronto TO OoLLiNQWooD. Diekct route to Free Land Grant Districts of Muskoka and Parry Sound, &c. Northern Railivay. Toronto. 5 Davenport. 8 Weston. 14 Thornhill. 18 Eichmond Hill. 23 King. 30 Aiuora. 34 Newmarket. * Steamers through Georgian Bay, Ac 184 LANDS OF PLENTY. Toronto to Collingwood — cont Miles. 38 Holland Lauding. 42 Bradford. 49 Gilford. Jtetroy. 62 67 Bramley. 63 Allandale. 63 64 70 -g 78 g 87 I «a « o M I 90 95 100 103 109 115 71 Utopia, 74 Angriis. 79 New Lowell. 86 Stayner. 91 Batteaux. 94 CollinGTWOod. 100 Craigleith. 107 Thornbury. 115 Meaford.*t Allandale. Barrie. Go wan. Hawkstone. Orillia. Couch iching. Atlierley. Longford. Washaero. Severn. Lethbridge. Oravenliarst.* Toronto to Sarnia via Grand Trunk Railway. Toronto. 6 Carlton. 8 Weston. 15 Malton. 21 Bra,nipton. 27 Nerval. 29 Cteorgetown. 32 Limehouse. 35 Acton West. 41 Rockwood. 48 Gnelph. 68 Breslau. 62 Berlin. 69 Doon. 75 Gait. * Steamers run to points on Lakes Maskoka, fiosseao, and Joseph. t Lake Superior Line steamers depart twice weekly for Bmce Mines, Sault, Ste. Marie, Nepigon, Silver Islet, &c. APPENDIX. 185 Toronto to Samia — cont. Miles. ~~ ' ' 69 Petersburgh. 72 Baden. 75 Hamburg. 82 Shakespeare. 88 Stratford. 98 St. Mary's. 98 St. Mary'B. 110 Thorudale. 121 London. 108 Oranton. 114 Lucaii. 121 AUsa Craig. 128 Park Hill. 137 Widder. 146 Forrest. 155 Camlachie. 168 Samia. (Kii-er St. Clair.) 169 Pt. Knron.* Toronto and Nippising, B,B. Toronto. 9 Scarboro' June. 14 Agincourt. 20 Uuionville. 22 Mark ham. 29 Stoutfville. 34 Goodwood. 41 Uxbridge. 49 Wick. 53 Sunderland. 59 Cauniugton. 63 WoodvlUe. 65 Midland June. — Beaverton. — Orillia. — Undsay. 66 Argyle. 71 Eldon. 74 Portage Boad. 76 Kirkfleld. 79 Victoria Bead. 88 Cobconk.t * Connects with Chicago and Lake Huron, and Detroit, Grand Haven, and Milwaukie Railways to Grand Haven (190 niiles), whence steamers ply daily across Lake Michigan to Chicago and Milwaukie. t Steamers communicate daily throughout the tourist season with Fenelon Falls ; and with the fishing grounds of Grill and Burt rivers and Balsam Cameron and Sturgeon lakes. 186 LANDS OF PLENTY. Toronto, Gray, and Bruce Railway. Toronto to Teeswater and Owen in;imd. MUes Toronto. 9 Weston June. 15 Hiimber Summit. 16 Woodbridge. 21 Kleinburg. 26 Bolton 32 Mono Eoad. 41 Charleston. U Alton. 49 Orangeville. 52 OrangeviUe June. 64 Shelbume. 76 Dundalk. 81 Proton. 86 Flasherton and Priceville. 93 Markdale. 98 Berkeley. 102 Williamsford. 106 Arnott. 109 Chatsworth. 114 Eockford. 122 Owen Sound.* 52 Orangeville June. 56 Amaranth. 58 Waldemar. 72 Arthur 79 Kenilworth. 87 Mount Forest. 92 Pages. 97 Karriston. 104 Fordwich. 109 Gorrie and Wroxeter. 122 Teeswater.t * Georgian Bay and Lake Superior steamers leave every Saturday night for Killarney, Bruce Mines, &c. f Stages to Riversdale, Lucknow, &c. APPENDIX. 187 Toronto and Nipissing Railway. Toronto. 9 Scarboro' Jano. 14 Af^incourt. 20 Uniouville. 23 Markham. 29 StoutfvUle. 34 Goodwood. 41 Uxbridge. 49 Wick. 53 Sunderland. 59 Caunington. 63 WoodviUe. 65 Midland Juno. 71 Eldon. 74 Portage Koad. 76 Kirklield. 79 Victoria Road. 88 Coboconk. Victoria Railway. Toronto. Via Q. T. Ey. Whitby. Via W. P. P. & L. E E. Lindsay. 1 Midland Railway June. 14 Peuelon Falls. 19 Fell's. 24 Eettie's Bridge. 33 Kinmount. 43 Minden Sta, 47 Ingoldsby. 49 Dysart. 53 Goulds. 56 Haliburton. Connections. pirvWK^^'T ^F- ^:, * ^^^'^y ^^^^7 ^or Port Perry, Whitby, Toronto and all points on G. T. R. With Midland Railway for Peterboro'. Port Hope, OrilUa, Waubaashene, and all points on the Toronto and Nipissine and Grand Trunk Railway. -t^ipiHsmg Fenelon FALLS-With stage for Bobcaygeon. Kinmount— With Stage for Minden. 188 LANDS OF PLENTY. Whitby, Poet Perry, and Lindsay R. R. 3 Ops. 7 Mariposa. Maiiilla. 13 17 Sonya. 19 Seagrave. 26 Port Perry. 28 Prince Albert. 30 Manchester. 32 Summit. 35 Myrtle. 39 Brooklyn. 44 Whitby. 45 Whitby Juno. Toronto. St. Paul and Pacific Railway. St. PatQ. 10 Jnnction. E. Minneapolis. 11 Minneapolis. 21 Min'touka Mills. 25 Wayzata. 28 Long Lake. 33 Miple Plain. 35 Armstroll,^^ 40 Delano. 49 Waverly. 64 Howard Lake. 57 Smith Lake. 61 Ci kato. 67 Dassel. 72 Dai- "rtn. 78 Litchfiekl 86 Swede Grove. 91 Atwater. 98 Kandiyohi, 104 Willmar. Ill St. Johns. 118 Kerkhoven. 127 De Graff. 134 Benson. 141 Clontarf. 150 Hancock. 159 Morris. 168 Donnelly. 178 Hermann. 185 Gorton. 194 Tintah. 201 Campbell. 209 Doran. 217 Breckenridffe. APPENDIX. 189 St. Paul and Pacific and Red River and Manitoba Railroads. Breckenridge. 17 Manston. 45 Barnesville. 52 Glyndon. 59 Averill. 65 Felton. 75 Borup. 80 Ada. 87 Eoletto. y2 Edner, 102 Kittson. 109 Crookston. 200 Northcote. DuLUTH (Head of Lake Superior) to Glyndon — Northern Pacific Railroad. Dnlntb. 15 Fond du Lac. 24 N. P. Junction, '88 Aiken. 115 Brainerd. d q fst. Paul. Minneap's , ^ E. Miuneaps. ''^ b^ *« "^ Sauk Rapids on 1^° Little Falls. Ft. Ripley, 105 119 'SM ^.„ 136 ^p4 LBrainerd.' 115 Brainerd. 137 Motley. 153 Aldrich. 162 Wadena. 185 Perham. 206 Detroit. 219 Lake Park. 230 Hawley. 235 Muskoda. 243 Glyndon. J 90 LANDS OF PLENTY. Summary of termiiial points and intermediate distances indicated in the foregoing tables and accompanying panoramic chart : — Halifax to Quebec .... Quebec to Montreal .... Montreal to Toronto .... Quebec to Ottawa . , . Ottawa to eastern terminus of Pacific rail- way on Lake Nipissing, under contract, and trains running half the distance Eastern terminus to Fort William via Nipigon Bay. The work on this section is post- poned until the Pacific section are more advanced ..... Fort William to Red River (Selkirk),* the whole under contract, rails laid down, and construction trains running over half dis- tance ; the whole to be open for traffic before close of 1882 Red River to Pontvincourt (approximately) Pontvincourt to Livingstone (Fort Pelly) . Livingstone to Saskatchewan Saskatchewan to Battleford . Battleford to Edmonton Miles. 172* 333 328 206 1,021 1,354 534 694 1,228 410 117 100 196 90 230 1,638 1,755 1,855 2,051 2,141 2,371 * From Selkirk westward, through Manitobah, a colo- nization road is under construction to its western boun- dary, 100 miles distant, to be completed by July 1880. APPENDIX. 191 IVTilof 1. 256 2,627 137 2,764 356 3,120 2,600 Edmonton to Yellow Head Pass of the Rocky Mountains, 3,626 ft. above sea level Yellow Head Pass to T6te Jaune Cache, situated on the western side of the " Great Divide "..... T6te Jaune Cache down the Fraser river to Port Moody (Burrard Inlet)* Liverpool to Quebec .... 6,720 The points and distances between Red river and the Rocky mountains are not definitely decided on, and are here given as simply in- dicating the probable location and length of the road. The whole section is now being tho- rougly explored for the purpose of selecting the best route between Lake Winnipeg and the British Columbia border. From Tete Jaune Cache the same uncertainty exists as to the precise location of the line. No less than eleven different routes have been projected from the Yellow Head Pass in the Rocky mountains to the Coast. Ten of these have been measured, and vary in length from 460 to 560 miles. Three routes are now under survey. These are respectively known as the " Burrard," " Bute '' or Pine River, and " Fort • Burrard Inlet forms one only of the three proposed termini of the Canadian Pacific Railway. (See accom- panying Map). 192 LANDS OP PLENTY. 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