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WHO WAS mufi'tittv^f^i ft'*>8-»' \; ^noVf'PV r *»"«? re-- Ai«'aiK<^a: ']ii_ i»%m^il^fnm' m ; as.E. ^■fBET A NARRATIVE OF SOME PA88AOBS IN THB HISTORY OP EENOOLOOAPIK, A YOUNG ESQUIMAUX, WHO WAS BROUGHT TO BRITAIN IN 1839, IN THK SHIP " NBPTUNB" OF ABBRDERN : AN ACCOUNT OF THR DISCOVERY OF HOGARTH'S SOUND: REMARKS ON THE NORTHERN WHALE FISHERY, AiNJi WQQB9TIOKS FOa ITS IMFROVBMBNT, &0. dw. BY ALEXANDER M'DONALD, L.R.C.S.E. Uember of the Curerian Natural Htitory Sooietjr of Edlnburch. • • . . » . . . • « • • * • •• • • •» , • • • • • » . • •■ '••.«. • •, • • , » . « w • • » « • • • • • • • • • ' • > 1 < 1 • » * • » t EDINBURGH : FRASER & CO. AND J. HOGG, 116 NICOLSON STREET. MDCCCXLI. €.e. / /rt.»^-*.-'f>'^1;vU?' •i^i* ».■-,< lii u u> '/^•^/ KDINBTTROH: PRINTBB BT J. HOOG, NIOOISON STRBBT. J ** *-•»•••• ••• V • « t ( • « • i . « • ••••'* » • • • • » * ft • • • • '»" b 4 •» 9 • * * V » tl • 1. » ( t • • • • ••»♦•• • « « • « u < 4 9 - m if if ^ 4 :i PREFACE. ■ In presenting the following pages to the public, the Author may be allowed to offer a brief explanation of the reasons which led to their composition and publication. When, in the spring of 1840, he was en- gaged to accompany Captain Penny in the Bon Accord, in his professional capacity, it was suggested to him, in anticipation of the discovery of what has been denominated Hogarth's Sound, to prepare an account of the voyage, combined with some notices of the interesting Esquimaux whose informa- tion had first directed attention to that inlet as an eligible spot for the prosecution of the whale-fishery. Anticipating success in the discovery of a new field of enterprise, and judging that, besides the local interest attaching to the residence of Eenoolooapik in Aberdeen, there were circumstances con- nected with his visit to this country which rendered it of general, and even of national importance, the Author agreed to draw up. 4 ii. to the best of his ability, an account of the principal incidents of the voyage, in connec- tion with what was known of the history of that intelligent and interesting individual. Such is the histwy of the following " Narrative ;" and as it has been intended to be as comprehensive and explanatory of itself as possible, there is no need to enlarge upon the performance in a preface. The subject is one of considerable interest, and the Author has endeavoured to sustain that interest as far as practicable in the course of the Narrative. He has strictly adhered to truth in all the details, and he is not conscious of having misrepresented a single fact for the sake of effect. There is one circumstance, however, in the Narrative, which he cannot allow to pass without notice. In proof of the progress which Eenoolooapik had made in writing, a fac simile of a letter which ho wrote before he left the Bon Accord is inserted at page 102; and it might be inferred that it was meant to be affirmed that that letter was originated and executed entirely by Eenoolooapik himself. This is true so far, but not absolutely and alto- gether so. He had learned to know the 111. 1 meaning of written language, and could write many words both in English and Esquimaux, but the letter which is given in the following work was first written to his dictation by the Author and then tran- scribed by Eenoolooapik's own hand, and without assistance, in the exact form in which it is given in this volume. It will be allowed that it is even thus a wonderftil proof of hib intellectual capacity. The Portraitwhich accompanies the work is an excellent likeness of Eenoolooapik, and may serve to shew to what extent it is possible to improve the physical ap- pearance of the Esquimaux. The Charts are referred to in the places where they are inserted, and they also explain themselves. The Meteorological Tables at the end of the volume will not interest general readers, but they may be deemed of use in a scien- tific point of view. '^' In the hope that the subject treated of is of sufficient importance to justify the publication of this volume, it is given to the world. There may be no merit in it as a literary production, but let the vast interests of which it treats be its recom- mendation. i A NAIUIATTVK, &c. . CJIAPTIMI I. The great want of success which has of late years attended the prosecution of the northern whale- fishery has led to its gradual diminution, and threat- ens soon to effect its total ahandonment as a com- mercial pursuit. It is much to be regretted that a branch of commerce, by which a race of hardy and adventurous seamen may be trained to the perfec- tion of maritime enterprise — our knowledge of the geography and natural history of the north extended —the wretched condition of the inhabitants of those dreary and sterile regions ameliorated, and the glad tidings of salvation conveyed to their shores, — should, in consequence of a few unfortunate seasons, be al- lowed to fall into utter neglect. But common prudence and reason alike forbid the perseverance in an undertaking, which, for the most II 2 part, hitherto, has proved so ruinous, unless some other and more effective method be devised for its continuance. An examination of the records of the fishery will shew, that, since 1834, a loss of life and property has been sustained sufficient to damp the ardour of the most adventurous and wealthy. It is not difficult to account for these recent and repeated failures. The extensive accumulation of ice — resulting from the operation of causes not yet investigated or understood, but, in all probability, attributable to the revolution of a meteorological cycle, which the advanced science of some after age may evolve and elucidate — has rendered the naviga- tion of those northern seas more difficult and dan- gerous, and the approach to the localities wh*re the whales formerly abounded, generailly impracticable till the season is far advanced. Another obvious cause exists in the animals having almost entirely deserted some of their usual haunts ; being forced, by the warfare which man wages against them, to seek shelter in the unexplored recesses of other and more peaceful seas. To discover a fishery which combined the advan- tages of being productive and easily accessible, was a desideratum with the parties engaged in those toil- some and perilous enterprises. But the opinion seems generally to have been entertained, that the coasts of Davis' Strait had already been too minutely I examined to admit of their disclosing any new field of adventure. The sequel will shew, however, that the conclusion was erroneous, and that there is at least one extensive inlet which had never been visit- ed, where the whales are abundant and comparatively undisturbed. In their intercourse with the natives at Durban, on the western coast, the fishermen had frequently been informed of the existence of a large inland sea, abounding with whales, and communicating with the Strait considerably to the southward of that locality. But the information thus obtained was altogether overlooked, until Captain Penny, com- manding the Ship Neptune of Aberdeen, in 1839, directed his attention to the subject. Being satisfied that there was some truth in the statements of the natives regarding this matter, he brought home with him Eenoolooapik, a young Esquimaux of consider- able intelligence, from whom, he had reason to thinks much additional information might be obtained, not only on the subject of the whale-fishery, but also concerning the geography of those partially explored regions. This interesting youth was a native of Keimook- sook : a country stretching along the borders of that sea of which the Esquimaux had spoken. The history of his iarly years is a matter of uncertainty ; but we may suppose, that beyond the simple inci- dents of a savage boy's experience, who had been nurtured amidst the cheerless solitudes of an arctic clime i coast, there would be little to record or commemorate, even although we possessed the ne- cessary information. When he was about ten years of age, his parents, impelled by curiosity, and ani- mated by the hope of traffic, undertook a journey to Durban, which they had learned from the neighbour- ing tribes, was a favourite place of resort with the whalers. This journey of several hundred miles, along a rugged and barren coast, exposed to all the fury of the northern tempest, and often encumbered M'ith immense shoals of ice threatening hourly de- struction to the daring navigator, these simple, but hardy adventurers, accornplished in their frail oomiak or luggage-boat ; and the necessity of keeping near the shore afforded Eenoolooapik an ample opportu- nity of acquiring that knowledge of the coast which afterwards proved of such signal importance to him. Arrived at Durban, they settled among the inha- bitants ; and it may be inferred from some passages in their private history, communicated by Eenoo (as we shall now and then familiarly call him), that they afterwards rose to considerable importance. The circumstance which attested the aggrandizement of the family, was nothing less than the fact of Eenoo's father assuming the patriarchal prerogative of espous- ing another of the fair daughters of the land, in i) consideration of the fading beauty of Nootaapik — a matron whom we shall afterwards have occasion to notice in the course of our narrative as the mother of Eenoolooapik. The proximity of Durban harbour to the residence of the Esquimaux, afforded Eenoolooapik frequent opportunities of visiting the ships ; and it may well be supposed, that the equipment of the vessels, and the superiority of all their arrangements, would fill the inexperienced mind of the savage with sublime conceptions of the intelligence of the Kudloonite* Every day of his intercourse with the fishermen added to the strength of this feeling ; and so power- ful did it at last become, that he resolved, should ever an opportunity occur, upon visiting the land of the white men.f On several occasions, both in 1837 and 1838, he attempted to carry this resolution into effect, but the tears and entreaties of his mother prevailed, and diverted him from his purpose till the opportunities were past. However, he continued to cherif'h the determination of making a voyage to Kudloonite noona, and at last an unexpected circumstance af- forded him the means of gratifying his wishes. While Captain Penny was, in 1839, engaged in * That is, the white men. t In Esqnimiii;x, KudlooniU- noonu. 6 making inquiries among the Esquimaux at Durban, regarding the situation of the inland sea already referred to^ and its eligibility for the purposes of the whale-fishery, he had occasion to examine Eenooloo- apik on the subject ; and finding him familiar with the features of the country, he requested him to trace an outline of the coast. This, after he was made to comprehend the method and object of it, he perform- ed with remarkable facility. He delineated a chart in which he represented the shore as abruptly leav- ing the general coast-line of Davis' Strait, and stretching to the westward for about sixty miles ; then trending to the northward until it arrived at a point which he described as being immediately opposite to Durban. From this point a deep inlet, named by the Esquimaux Kingaite, penetrated so far into the land, in the direction of Durban, as almost to insulate the portion to the southward. From the entrance to this inlet, the shore again took a westerly direction for about forty miles, when another deep inlet, named Kingoua, formed the termination of the sea to the northward. The shore was then laid down as returning to the southward, in a direction almost parallel to that already deli- neated. The eastern coast was represented as being bold and precipitous, intersected by numerous bays and creeks, and a few clusters of islands scattered along it. The western shore was stated to be low. K,.-U U.f KJink.^ 60 nnd almost concealed in its whole extent by a dense mass of islands. He described the coast as being inhabited by numerous tribes of Esquimaux, and stated that they were in the practice of killing con- siderable numbers of whales for thf» sake of their flesh, which there forms a staple article of food. The general name which he gave to the sea thus laid down, was Tenndiackbcek, — a name supposed to have some reference to the number of whales frequenting it.* This supposition is rendered the more probable from the circumstance of the names assigned by him to various other localities, being generally expressive of something for which they were remarkable. The knowledge he displayed in the execut'on of this sketch t induced Captain Penny to invite him * The word ackbuk signifies, in the language of the Esqui- maux of the west land, ii wliale ; and in the plural it is avkl'eek or achbeelik : but the writer was unable, from all his inquiries at Ecnoolouapik, to trace the etymology of the word Tenu- diachbeek farther. t We beg to present cur readers with a copy of Enoolooa- pik's performance, as reduced from the Chart published at the Hydrographic Office of the Admiralty, after tiie original sketch executed by Eenoo in 1839. It will be remarked, that Tenudiackbeek is made to enter from Cumberland Strait, but upon examination this was found to be incorrect. This, how- ever, was no error of Eenoolooapik's : and the reason for as- signing that particular feature to the Chart will be given in Al to Ilrituin. An invitation so mncli in accordancp with his own resolution was nt once, and without hesitation, accepted ; and his rehitions were immedi- ately apprised of his determination. October had now arrived, when all, save the rude denizens of the north, must leave those hlcnk, ice- bound shores; and Eenoo havinj^ obtained the con- sent of his friends, was taken on board the Neptune, accompanied by a number of his tribe. The Esqui- maux, with the exception of his mother, shewed little emotion at parting with him. With her, how- ever, the case was far otherwise. Her first-born — now the chief guardian and support of her declining years — was about to visit a country and a clime far distant and unknown ; to sojourn among a people whose language and manners he knew not; — and the promise of a stranger was her only guarantee for his safety. Under such circumstances it was not to be wondered at that maternal affection, implanted alike in the breast of the civilized and savage, should be nn after part of the narrative. By comparing' Eenoolooapik's delineation with the Chart of Captain Penny's discoveries, in a subsequent part of this work, it will be seen that, upon the whole, with the excei)tion just noticed, the difference is but trifling ; and that it exhibits in a striking degree the aptitude of Eenoolooapik's mind for geographical knowledge and observation. 9 displayed in all its power. Untrammelled by formal and frigid restraint^ which oft-times checks the pure feelings of nature, and freezes the gushings-forth of the holiest affections, this unsophisticated Esquimaux gave vent to her emotions in loud and prolonged bursts of wailing and tears. These expressions of her feelings lasted for some time, assuming various and somewhat extravagant phases, until^ at last, in accordance with the peculiar manners of her country on such occasions, she laid bare her bosom, and in- vited him by an appeal, which, though silent, was irresistible, to kiss the warm breast which in infancy had suckled him : such being the last tender testi- mony of affection when the grave may prevent another meeting upon earth. At this touching scene Eenoo's resolution had well-nigh deserted him ; but in a mo- ment he rallied : the settled purpose of his soul was not now to be so easily subdued. At this time Eenoolooapik was about twenty years of age, and might be considered, in his physical aspect, a fair specimen uf the Esquimaux race. But, as yet, his mental acquirements were of a very limited de- scription. Doomed hitherto to pass his days amid those dismal solitudes of snow, where all his energies were requisite to provide for the wants of the passing hour, and where mental cultivation is unknown^ it was scarcely to be expected that he would manifest much knowledge beyond what he had gathered in 10 p I his waudurings, or what hud been forced upon him by duily experience. And, indeed, if wo except his geographical information, there was little to recom- mend him to the notice of our countrymen ; but that being observed to be considerable, it was deemed of importance to have a better opportunity of learning the extent of it, as it might not only be made avail- able for the purposes of the whale-fishery, but also be of value in a scientific point of view. Hence, us before observed, the reason of his invitation to Britain. During the homeward passage every care was taken to instruct him in the usages of civilized so- ciety ; and aided by the faculty of imitation, which he possessed in a very high degree, he adopted the manners of those around him with Mslonishing fsici- lity. Every attention was bestowed to prevent his morals being contaminated by intercourse with the vicious ; and this was the more necessary, as the first impressions made upon a mind emerging from the gV:>m of savage ignorance, were likely to be per- manent. His docility and the mildness of his dis- position soon rendered him a general favourite ; and the kindness which he in consequexioe experienced, no doubt contributed largely to the favourable opi- nion whiciv he formed regarding the Kudloonite. At first he 'vas rather averse to the change of dress which it wxr. i. i-essa^y he should adopt ; for though J f I 11 it might pleaae the eye and gratify hii passion fur embellishment^ it was yet felt o '^eedingly incon- venient and irksome, and he would gladly have ex- changed it for the loose furs to which he had been accustomed. He soon acquired habits of extreme persoi.al cl^mliness, — a circumstance the more sur- }>ribii;.;, J: c the Esquimaux are generally very in- aitoDt^ve in that respect; but so complete was the revolution which his ideas underwent on this point of propriety, that in a short time he shewed an in- clination to be rather fastidious than negligent. An ample opportunity was now afforded Captain Penny for examining Eenoolooapik more minutely concerning Tenudiackbeek ; and a kind of conven- tional language, composed of an intermixture of English and Esquimaux, being established between them, Eenoo communicated many further particulars on that and other subjects; and when language alto- gether failed him, he readily supplied its place by a rude drawing. In this manner, too, he represented his countrymen as engaged in encountering the va- rious dangers of th« chase, and thus conveyed to the mind a much mort^ accurate idea than could possibly have been done by his imperfect verbal expression. The description which he had given concerning the entrance to Tenudiavkbeek, and the charts of the most receut discoverers shewing no inlet of any extent between Durbiin and Cape Enderby, led n Captain Penny at once to suppose that it communi- cated with the sea by means of Cumberland Strait. The direction, too, which the coast at the entrance was represented as taking, and the knowledge that '■lat Strait is U 'his time but imperfectly explored, both combined to favour that opinion. In going over the chart, Eenoo would not only describe the particular features of each place, but point out the situations remarkable for the occurrence of some tragical event. While engaged in this manner, he related the circumstance of a shipwreck, which was listened to with the deepest attention. He stated that the Esquimaux had informed him, that nearly four years before, when the sun was very low, they had seen a ship wrecked among the ice off the west land, to the southward of Durban, — ! supposed, from his description, to have been about the place called Saunderson's Tower. They had told him ' that the crew pitched their tents upon the ice, and \ remained there for several days, when, seeing another i ship in the offing, they, leaving ten of their number idead upon the ice, set out in the hope of reaching her. (The period and place of this occurrence, the season . of the year, when the sun was very hw, — supposed to have been about the month of February, — all con- spired to point it out as th y 10 Eonoo objected ; saying, " you give me to take from me — not good — Imiuit (the Esquimaux) no do that:" —thus reading the gentleman a lecture in moral philosophy which he was not prepared to expect from such a quarter. Eenoo's firm refusal to deliver up the prize caused considerable merriment among the irest of the passengers, and be persisted in retaining J it until the interposition of Captain Penny procured I its immediate restoration. This jest was no doubt attempted without the slightest intention of corrupting Eenoo, but it was obviously calculated to make a bad impression upon his inexperienced mind, as it tended to destroy those principles of rectitude which the Esquimaux act upon among themselves. They are blamed, and not , without reason, for being dishonest in their inter- r f course with us, and it is highly probable that this propensity was at first called into activity by trifling circumstances such as that now detailed. It requires little philosophy to account for this: for, finding deceit and tUlsehood practised towards themselves, and at the same time having strong temptations placed before them in the shape of articles useful to them, and unattainable from any other source, it* is noways strange that they yield themselves up to the practice of secret cunning and appropriation. Among the multiplicity of objects which Eenoo- looapik saw in sailing along the coast, the light- 17 iienoo- liglit- houses seemed to interest him the most ; and of these the erection on the Bell -Rock attracted the greatest share of his attention. Concerning this structure, he asked whether it was one stone or rock? and whether it had not been brought from the land and placed where he saw it ? He was easily informed of the mode of its erection and its use ; and, indeed, the aptitude which he displayed in comprehending the nature of the many objects brought under his notice, was a matter of astonishment to all around him. The weather having now moderated, they left the Frith and pursued their way back to Aberdeen, where they arrived on the night of the 8th Novem- ber. Gaining the harbour while it was dark, there Avas no opportunity of witnessing how Eenoo would have expressed himself on a sudden view of the city bursting upon him. The novelties which every day since his arrival on the coast had revealed, had in some measure prepared his mind for what he was about to witness ; but there can be no doubt that his anticipations of society and scenery had fallen far short of that to which he was afterwards intro- duced. His residence in this country forming a distinct era in his history, we shall not enter upon that matter in the present chapter, but shall devote the next division of our narrative to a review of the incidents of that eventful period, interspersing it D li ij f? i. t ]« witli such reflections as occur to us in passing, or Avliich seem to arise naturally from the subject under consideration. }- • It '■ I .Jl CHAPTER II. There is a feeling of romantic interest associated in the minds of most people with the arrival of " strangers and foreigners" on our shores; and this principle of curiosity, as it is sometimes called, is heightened if the visitants be of a rude, uncivilized race. If it is not the same, it seems to be akin to the motive which induces us to visit a menagerie or a museum ; although, when we gaze upon a fellow mortal in the uncouth aspect of barbarism, there may be more of sympathj mingled with the feeling tlian Avhen we study the habits and instincts of the natural denizens of the forest. Mind is a subject of wonderful contemplation, whether exhibited in the refinement and science of civilized life, or in the wild, uncultivated manners of savage existence ; and when a real " son of the desert" is brought amongst us, we naturally feel a strong desire to witness the workings of his untutored reason, and the develop- ment and display of energies which have slumbered ><• m fii'f 'I \{lf. I'l 20 till the moment he is ushered into the midst of civilization. The news of the arrival of an Esquimaux in Aberdeen produced considerable sensation among all classes of the inhabitants ; and on the following day great numbers of people collected on the quay for the purpose of obtaining a sight of Eenoolooapik. The cabin of the Neptune, ioo, was crowded with visitors, and Eenoo was thus subjected to much that was disagreeable and foreign to his constitution, in the confinement and iicreasing heat of the narrow accommodation. He was, in consequence of being thus exposed to an overheated and vitiated atmos- phere, seized with a pulmonary affection, which, though slight at first, the humidity and somewhat variable nature of our climate tended to aggravate. It will shortly be our painful duty to record a period of protracted and severe suffering which he endured, and which, but for the very assiduous and effi- cient treatment of his medical attendant, Dr Pirrie, and the fatherly attention of Captain Penny and other kind friends, might have terminated fatally ; but the melancholy task is spared us for some time, till we trace a brief account of his introduction to refined society, and the effect which it had upon his ready and retentive mind. He was now transferred from the Neptune to the more comfortable accommodation of a town resi- 1 21 to lis the ?si- dence ; and the same facility of comprehension was displayed by him in reference to every thing to which he was introduced. Shortly after his arrival . /- he was invited to a dinner party, given expressly for/ /A-t^^u. » * the purpose of ascertaining how he would conducts t^'k-x^' himself amongst the higher and more fashionable circles of society, before an opportunity had been afforded him of becoming acquainted with the forma which are there observed. On this occasion every thing was exhibited which was likely to astonish him and elicit the latent feelings of delight, which i must, unquestionably, have possessed his soul. So/ far from being in the slightest degree confused, hei acquitted himself in a manner which surprised every « one present. The faculty of imitation, which, as we \ have before noticed, he possessed in a high state of 1 development, enabled him to copy the manners of those around him with such promptitude and pre- « cision, that it would have been difficult for one un- acquainted with the fact to have told that he had been accustomed to move in a different sphere of life. \ The smile, the bow, and even the slightest gesture, he | '^^ ^ "' > / i < imitated with the most minute correctness. He ex- pressed no astonishment at anything which occurred, until the table was exposed on the removal of the \ cloth ; when, struck by its extent and beauty, he « uttered an exclamation of surprise, and set about \ examining its structure and qualities. (Ii ip I t I Tliiit tlio proprioty of Ecnoos beliaviour on this occusiim (h'pciuled principiilly on liis power of imita- tion, may hi* proved from the followitijj; circumstance : With the view of ascertaininj; how far his conduct might be attributed to this faculty, one of the gentle- men at the j)arty purposely committed a breach of etiquette, and was innnediately followed to the very letter, in his unusual course, by Eenoolooapik. Hut, being made aware of his error, and of the imposition which was practising upon him, without allowing his self-possession to be at all disturbed, lie looked around, and after consultiiig the countenances of the various individuals, he readily concluded who he ought to imitate. , lie was next taken out for a short distance to the country. He expressed himself as gratified witli the appearance which it presented, and contrasted it with the aspect of his own sterile land. The trees, espe- cially, astonished him by their magnitude ; and he amused himself in measuring the circumference of se- veral of them, and in comparing them with the stunt- ed shrubs of the wcsl-land — as he had been taught by the sailors to denominate the country of his birth. He displayed considerable anxiety to be informed concerning the nature of every strange object ; and, in return, he was very ready to communicate such knowledge as he possessed, in regard to the produc- tions of his native clime, whenever an opportunity the )iitli. ormed and, sncli rocluc- tunity occurred tor his doing ao. It may he here rcnmrkod/ however, that althoujfh he seemed interested ahout every thing which he saw, he maintained the utmost coohiess and deliheration in examining whatever at- tracted his notice. The same perfect composure and gravity marked his intercourse with the various in- dividuals whom he met ; and, as yet, he was equally at home with every ])erson, knowing none of the ordinary distinctions of society. The change of circumstances which Eenoolooapik had undergone, was jjerhajjs as great and rapid as can well be conceived. A month ago, and he had been among the fur-clad savages of Durban, a mem- ber of their tribe, and a follower of their customs ; and nitw, he was an object of attraction and interest in the midst of a civilized and refined community. It is difficult to imagine the process of thought which must have passed through his mind within this brief period ; and his ready intelligence and perfect equa- nimity are still more curious and interesting pheno- mena. It might have been expected that one whose life had hitherto been spent amidst the bleak scenery of an arctic shore, where little save the bare rock, the withered lichen, or the eternal snow, meets the eye at every turn, would have been altogether be- wildered by such a transition as that which Eenoo- looapik had just experienced. There seems to have been a peculiarity in his case, which, perhaps, is (i I M d i\ • i ir If ri i without a parallel. It is true there have been se- veral interesting natives of distant climes brought to this country on ditterent occasions, who manifested considerable intelligence and tact in their first inter- course with civilized society ; but in what instance is the contrast between the previous and after ex- perience of the party so striking and singular, as in the case of Eeno(dooapik ? The isles of the Pacific liave sent of their sons to see the father-land of the faithful missionary, — the dark children of Africa have come to behold and bless the birth-place of liberty to the captive negro, — the simple Hindoo, and the sterr Indian, may have trod our soil and wondered at our science, — but all these had the re- membrance of much that was lovely and luxuriant in their own fair and xertile homes. Eenoclooapik's memory had no such beautiful resting-places on which to repose and expand itself. In the climes of the south, nature is prodigal of her favours, and lavish of her loveliness, and little would the inhabi- tants of such regions care for our richest landscapes, if destitute of the decorations and trophies of art. The towering cliffs of the stormy north may display much of grandeur and magnificence, but the cheerless snow-hut and the icy ocean can call forth few asso- ciations of repose, and could have done little to pre- pare Eenoolooapik's mind for the refinement into which he had been ushered. A few days nftor the arrival of the Neptune, Cuptain Penny, at the urgent solicitations of his numerous friends, allowed Eenoolooapik to display \m dexterity in the management of his canoe on the river Dee. On this occasion he was with the great- est difficulty prevailed upon to exhibit himself in his native costume ; but so changed were his opinions on the subject of dress, that he only did so, on being assured that he would never be asked to put it on again. The day happened to be exceedingly warm fur the season of the year ; and Eenoo, ambitious of shewing his cxpertness, exerted himself to the utmost of his power. He became considerably overheated in consequence of the severe exercise and the warm nature of his dress, and the pulmonary affection from which, as before mentioned, he was suffering, was thereby aggravated. Its alleviation, too, was after- wards prevented by the imprudent manner in which he exposed himself in the open air ; for he resisted every entreaty to remain in the house, unless when Captain Penny was present with him. His disease, however, at length assumed such an alarming form, as not only to render confinement to his apartment imperative, but even to threaten his existence. Arrangements had been made for instructing him in such elementary branches of education as it seemed he was most likely to acquire with ease, and also for teaching him the art of boat-building, which - S :4 ! I i-n •■-■ ■1 20 it was thought \vould be highly useful to him. Rut the excellent and praiseworthy intentions of his friends were unfortunately frustrated by the very serious aspect which his malady had now assumed. The disease from which he was sufFerins was an inflammatory affection of the lungs. It was extreme- ly severe, but it presented no other remarkable pe- culiarity. The Esquimaux, even in their own country, are very liable to such affections during the summer months. They do not use any reme- dial measures, ut least any which can properly be called so ; but nature generally performs a cure by means of copious bleedings at the nose. They place implicit reliance on the powers of the Angkuts,* who, when they visit a patient, bind up his eyes and utter some myctical sounds, by which, it is believed, they invoke the Great Spirit on behalf of the sufferer. The patient gets better in the way already noticed, and the Angkut receives the credit of the cure, and some substantial present for his services. Reared in the belief of the efficacy of their incantations, Eenoo- looapik strongly objected to medical treatment ; nor would he at all submit himself to it, until assured that it was the only means of saving his life- This * The administrators of the superstitious rites of the Esqui- maux, combining in their characters tlie professions of priest, physician, jiijirffler, anr ' uc. 27 eved, erer. ticed, and edin enoo- ; nor sured This being strongly represented to him, he was at length persuaded to allow himself to be bled ; but it was evident that he suffered the bleeding rather from the remonstrances of those about him, than from any idea that his disease would be subdued by such a remedy. By the means adopted by his medical attendant, he recovered so far, that in about fourteen days he was able to leave his bed. He was now satisfied that the treaiment which he had undergone had been of some efficacy ; but his faith in the Angkuts was not on that account in the least shaken. When speaking of their pretensions, he related that on some previous occasion he had been very ill, and an Angkut had been called to see him, who, as he said, attempt- ed to cure him " by much talking ;" but he stated it as an extraordinary circumstance that his disease had not been quelled by the power of the incantation. He did not perceive that this case militated against his own belief, for he evidently wished to convey a very favourable idea regarding the success of the Angkut practice. ' • ■ As soon as Eenoolooapik's health was sufficiently improved, he was taken out to spend a day at the house of a gentleman who had shown a great deal of interest in him. Here he rendered himself amusing by the representations which he gave of the winter employments of the Esquimaux. His ignorance of "■'•• I i i .:'m 'ii Si i it \ M M 28 our language prevented him from using it in express- ing his meaning ; but his pantomimic representation of the seal-hunting and similar pursuits^ is said to have conveyed to the minds of the beholders a very lively conception of what he meant to describe. The keenness with which he entered upon this exhibition, produced so much excitement in his yet weak frame, that a relapse of his complaint immediately followed ,\ and it was attended with even more alarming symp- toms than had been manifested in his first attack. He was already so much weakened by the deple- tion' which had been necessary to subdue his first illness, that he was little able to bear the remedies which were requisite in this new attack. For nearly three long and weary months he was confined to his bed, — his frame shattered, his strength wasted, and his mental energies impaired. He was, in short, brought to the very brink of the grave. After the excitement which attends the earlier stages of his afifection had passed away, he sunk till his life trem- bled in the balance. He lay motionless and apparent- ly unconscious of what was going on around him. His extremities were cold, his eyes sunken, and the expression of his countenance ghastly — the powers of nature seemed exhausted : yet he rallied ; but his convalescence was protracted, and the slightest ex- posure tended to produce a relapse. For a long time he suffered with the most exem- »i 29 powers but his itest ex- it exem- plary patience^ and not even a murmur escaped him ; but at length he became enervated by continued i ' , . , pain, and the thought that he was dying began to -f"^^ '^ steal over him. He then displayed great anxiety , AmMi on account of his mother, and was much distressed i / by the reflection that he would never see her again. \ On one occasion this feeling operated so powerfully upon him, that he cried bitterly, and reflected upon Captain Penny for bringing him away. This solicitude on account of his mother was no- thing more than we should have expected, consider- | ing the duty which is required from an Esquimaux to his maternal parent. Her support in old age en- tirely devolves upon him, and when deprived of this, her condition is miserable in the extreme. Hence, to be childless is among them considered one of the I greatest misfortunes imaginable; and when such happens, it is common for them to adopt the chil- dren of others, in order that tbey may not be left destitute in the evening of their days, when they have become unfit for the active duties of life. The practice in question prevails most extensively in re- gard to boys, they being most useful ; but instances are not unknown where girls have been adopted ; and even, the exchange of children is not uncommon, apparently for the purpose of preserving an equal balance of the sexes in a family. During Eenoo's recovery it was found necessary %. V ^1 30 ^■ y ' ^ • •! to aid the prostrate powers of his constitution l)y means of wine and other stimulants. When this practice was first adopted he seemed rather averse to take them, but by and by his disposition towards them assumed a more friendly aspect. Having, apparently, discovered their cheering influence, he was in the habit of slipping out of bed, when un- pcrceived, and tasting a little of the inspiring liquid. It was once or twice remarked that he shewed an unusual How of spirits, but his previous habits having been exceedingly temperate, the cause of his exhilaration was never suspected. He was one day, however, caught in the act, which put an end to all doubt on the subject, and also to his private indul- gence. There was perhaps nothing uncommon in this temporary wine-bibbing propensity, but it will be allowed that in the following respect his taste was somewhat peculiar. It had been found necessary to administer castor oil to him on various occasions, and instead of loathing this nauseous draught, as is usual with patients, in this country at least, he was always willing, and even rather anxious, for its copious administration. He was very observant of the means taken for the cure of his dis ^ase, and particularly anxious to learn the nature of nie indications which the pulse afford- ed. He would narrowly \vatch till the physician 1 i 31 ician withdrew his finger, and then he wouhl pounce upon the pulse, as if fearful of losing the opportunity of examining its mysterious indications. Returning health brought back with it his old feelings and associations, and hope with its ever- cheering beam again illumined his soul, and caused him to forget his recent sufferings. Indulging in the anticipations of future pastime amid the wild crags of his wintry home, he one day asKed what time he was to get a gun which Captain Penny had promised him. He was yet scarcely able to leave his couch, and Captain Penny, thinking that it might relieve the tedium of his weary hours, immediately procured the fowling-piece for him. When present- ed with it he expressed himself highly delighted, and after having examined it sufficiently it was set aside. The following morning he was observed to be ex- ceedingly languid, and apparently much worse. On inquiry being made as to how he had passed the night, he confessed that he had crawled from his bed, and spent several hours in examining his gun ; which he had been enabled to do at the window, in consequence of its being moonlight at the time. The bad effects of this imprudent exposure however, soon wore off, and his recovery went on progressively. Eenoolooapik's illness was a source of the utmost anxiety to Captain Penny, who had, without any reservation, engaged to restore him to his friends in 1 ' I I if nl .I'i, ■ill ■^w^lWi^nw- 32 1 1 '* f.f -J V ^1, f I i U t safety. Indocil he Imd even gone so far as to pro- / mise, that if any evil hefel Eenoo, he would deliver himself up to be dealt with as they should think fit. This engagement, although made in the best possible spirit, was yet of very questionable propriety ; for, had Eenoo died, quiet and inoffensive as the Esqui- maux generally are, we are by no means satisfied of I Captain Penny's safety, if ever he should have come I v/ithin the range of their power. But, altogether apart from his solicitude on that account, the atten- tion and kindness which he shewed to Eenoo during his illness, were of a character which commands our \ r ^.miration, and does him the highest credit. He watched and tended him while he lay sick and pow- erless ; he relieved the tedium and monotony of his couch in convalescence; and, in short, he was, as Eenoo himself expressed it, " all the same to him as a mother." Nor can we dismiss this part of the sub- ject without again noticing the assiduity and high/ professional skill displayed by Dr Pirrie in his attend/ ance on Eenoolooapik. It has been already remarked, that the case was of a severe and dangerous character, and, of course, requiring prompt and energetic treat- ment — but beyond the ordinary obstacles to recovery, there was the blighting influence of climate to con- tend against. We have already mentioned that it had been re- solved upon to instruct Eenoolooapik in some of the )f IC Br ti- ng MS \ tiJ'- ■m\ nc re- tlie 38 elementary branches of education^ and also to give him some practical lessons in the art of carpentry ; but the illness with which he was seized on his arrival, and which; as we have noticed, assumed such a serious aspect, prevented these designs from being carried into effect. On his health being now in some degree re-established, the process of teaching him to read was commenced. He mastered the alphabet with great readiness, bu). here his literary attain- ments terminated. He had evidently no relish for such pursuits, for he could not perceive any advan- tage which would afterwards accrue to him from the knowledge of letters. It was chiefly by this < prospective principle that he was guided in every i thing which he set about learning or acquiring. If i he did not see that the subject of study or acquisition / would be of future utility, he could not be persuaded )' to bestow attention upon it. When any toy acci- dentally came into his possession, he would examine it with great curiosity and care, but after discovering that none of the practical purposes of life, so far as < known to him, could be served by it, it was soon '. thrown aside as useless. On the other hand, if he got any thing which he judged might afterwards be turned to aci^ount in his own simple avocations at home, he hoarded it up with the greatest eagerness. \ With this indifference to literary study may, however, be contrasted his partiality to drawing. M h it k'l fl:! li ■i! n I -f i < 34 This peculiarity of his disposition must have n?sulteJ from the predominance, in him, of those faculties of the mind on which that art depends ; for we can scarcely conceive any thing which was likely to be of less service to him amid the desolate scenes of his arctic home. He had from the first shewn an apti- tude in that art which, if he had remained in this country and received instruction, might soon have rendered him an adept in the use of the pencil. The restoration of his health being now so far perfected as to allow him to be taken out, he was again introduced to every thing which was likely to interest or inform him, and he displayed the same readiness of comprehension which had previously characterised him in the examination of every thing which was new and wonderful. When his attention was directed to any strange object or piece of me- chanism, if he had ever seen any thing bearing even the most distant resemblance to it, he would instant- ly refer to that, and state that what he now saw was " smiagoiit," or " almost all the same." Frequently when any thing curious was shewn him, he would examine it without making any remark, so that it appeared at the time to have made little impression upon him, but he would afterwards revert to the subject, and ask innumerable questions concerning it. On one occasion he was taken to a manufactory and first shewn the cotton in its raw state, and then 35 he was conducted through the various a-^ irtments of the estahlishment and shewn the changes which the macliinery effected on the substance which he liad first seen. When he found it brought into the condition of fine thread, he took hold of the wrist- band of his shirt, and asked if that was not " all the same ?" He was several times taken to the theatre and other places of public amusement, on which occasions he seemed to enter with all his soul into the nature of the scene. The theatre, in particular, was a source of much gratification to him, for it seemed as if he fully comprehended the exhibitions, and could judge of the assumed character and lan- guage of the various performers. He stated that the Esquimaux have similar pastimes, but of course on a more diminutive and less refined scale. Innumerable instances, such as these, might be adduced in proof of Eenoolooapik's intellectual acuteness, but we deem what have just been noticed as sufiicient for the purpose of the present part of the narrative. We will yet have occasion to notice several other peculiarities of his character, as dis- played in the scenes through which he passed ere he again reached his northern home ; and we muy also be induced to offer some remarks on his mental constitution, after we have bid him farewell on his native shore. At present we waive the subject, and hasten to notice the incidents of the brief Ul '•V. :4 '• ill 36 ^^ i period which preceded his departure in the Bor. Accord. The latter part of Eenoolooapik's residence in Aberdeen was not characterised by any occurrence of moment. He continued the same course of observa- tion which he had pursued from the first, and no doubt added daily to his stock of knowledge. As his acquaintance with the world increased, he became more retiring and bashful in the presence of those with whom he was not intimate ; whereas, at first, he was eqi^ally pleased with and communicative to all. This change, however, did not go so far as to affect the propriety of his behaviour, which, from being simply imitation of the actions of others, had now become a habit with him. Ever since his transference to the Neptune, he had been accustomed to the use of our food, which did not seem to be productive of ary injurious con- sequences to him, although he had never even tasted any thing of a vegetable nature before. It would appear, however, from some circumstances observed during his illness, that animal food was best suited to his constitution, as it was given to him with decided benefit when he was in a condition very different from that usually requiring its administration. He was, at first, in the habit of taking his food in a half raw state, but in a short time his taste in this respect underwent a complete change, and he refused it 37 when presontcd to him in tiiat condition^ declaring that it had got ** oko too Utile," or " too little heat." He Hhewed no disposition to engorge himself in the manner so common among the Esquimaux, but on the contrary he was exceedingly abstemious and moderate. Indeed, he shewed none of those fierce and ungovernable passions whieh characterise man in his savage condition, but, on the contrary, he was mild and gentle in his nature, and modest, and even delicate, in his intercourse with female society. The attention which he received from the inhabitants of Aberdeen, and i^ particular from those of them connected with the Neptune, both on his arrival and during his residence* among them, was not more flattering to the dependent stranger, than honourable and praiseworthy to the parties bestowing it. Of their attention and kindness he seemed duly sensible, ut least he rewarded them with much deference and respect, and general amiability of character. He once or twice displayed some little bursts of self-will, which owed their origin to over-indulgence during his illness ; but these were uf short duration, and soon gave place to his usual blandness and equanimity. He had learned to abstain from his usual amuse- ments on the Sabbath, and, previous to his leaving, he was taken to church, where he conducted himself with the utmost propriety, and followed the external ceremonies of the worship as if he had been accus- : I'. ;ii ■;1 98 t^r i tomcd to tlicni ull liis lifctiinu. His instruction in religion had also boen ])rcvent(Hl by his long and dangerous illness, and it is questionable whether he Imd any understanding of the forms and observances in which he so readily joined. Nor was there now an opportunity left for his information, as his mind had become so much absorbed by preparations for his return, that nothing was heeded by him which had not a reference to his approaching departure. In consequence of the information which he had given, it was determined that the Bon Accord, whale-ship (to which vessel Captain Penny had in the meantime been appointed), should, in the course of her voyage, examine Tenudiackbeek, and test the truth of Eenoolooapik's statements ; but from the Government having declined to afford any assistance in the matter, the owners of the vessel were obliged to abandon that as a primary object. Having agreed to accompany Captain Penny in the expedition, the writer now became personally acquainted with Eenoolooapik. The remaining incidents of P^enoo's history, and the various circumstances connected with the voyage, having passed ])rincipallT under the writer's own observation, he may be allowed the privilege of occasionally expressing hinuself in the first person — a right which he may already in some in- stances have assumed, in virtue of an author's arro- gance, without craving the indulgence of his readers. 'Mi As the time of KoiuKilooiipik's (le|)arture »lre\v iieur, he assumed u more business-like air, und employed liimself in collecting such things as he thought would convey to the minds of his country- men some idea of the wonders he hud witnessed ; and also in providing himself with numerous articles which would be useful to him in his various pursuits at home^ and much more etticient than any thing which the rude arts and limited resources of the Esquimaux could supply. We have said that the Government had declined to afford any assistance in bearing the expense of an examination of Tenudiack- beek. This statement, however, must be qualified by the following fact. The Lords of the Treasury placed twenty pounds at the disposal of Eenoo's friends in Aberdeen, for the purpose of assisting in procuring whatever might be considered necessary to establish him in his native country in more com- fortable circumstances than he hud formerly enjoyed. And well provided indeed he 'n^'i- le, for no cost was spared by his friends in fup«islwng him with every thing that was useful or desired by him. Fowling- pieces, with powder und shot, — edge-tools, of various kinds, — culinary utensils, — and clothing in abun- dance,— formed part of his miscellaneous acquisi- tions. Although he had experienced so much favour and kindness, he did not seem to feel any reluctance to 'i- 40 leave this country, but rather looked forward to his departure with pleasure. But, indeed, this need not be wondered at when we think of the sickness and sufferings he had endured. He was fully sensible that the climate did not agree with him, as he was constantly annoyed with coughs and, in fact, his health was never so thoroughly confirmed as to shew that he was becoming at all acclimated. It is highly probable that he would not have survived long here, but would have fallen a sacrifice to the insalubrious influences of our moist, inconstant atmosphere, and have found a grave ^vhere he had come to worship at the temple of knowledge. CHAPTER III. The time was now come when Eenoolooapik must forego the pleasures of civilized life, and exchange the comfort and gaiety, in which he had for some time lived, for the rude hut of the Esquimaux, and the equally rude companionship of its inhabitants. But these considerations, if they occurred to him at all, were countern,cted by other and more powerful feel- ings ; for he now shewed considerable anxiety to de- part, and appeared quite disappointed when the ship was accidentally delayed beyond the time fixed for her sailing. When questioned as to whether he would ever return to Britain, he replied, ** Wyte you, wyte you, me takkou," or " wait until I see/' — alleging, as a reason for his indecision, that he thought there was " too much cough" for him here. He was, no ? doubt, influenced too by the strong attachment to' home, so remarkable in the inhabitants of those coun-/ tries where Nature appears in her sternest aspect ;| and though to us his native region might seem cold, | i ^'ii ')l:: 42 !i cheerless, and forbidding, it was yet endeared to him by association with his earliest recollections. The contrast which his residence in this country formed with the nature of his former life must have made a deep impression on his mind j but, instead of breaking his attachment to his own land, or ex- citing a desire to remain here, it very fortunately produced the wish of communicating to his country- men the knowledge which he had thus obtained. The 20th of March was the time first determined on for sailing, but the prevalence of strong easterly winds caused the tides to " take oiF" so rapidly, that we were obliged to wait the following stream. It was therefore the 1st of April ere there was sufficient depth of w ater to float the ship. On the night of that date we put to sea, and on the 4th arrived at Lerwick, in Shetland; whence, having completed our crew, we sailed on the 8th. Eenoolooapik's long and dangerous illness had, as before stated, prevented that advance in his educa- tion which was so much to be desired ; and, as the season of his opportunity for improvement was rapidly drawing to a close, it was determined to afford him as much information as possible, during his stay in the Bon Accord. So soon as all our ar- rangements were completed, and all felt themselves at home, we commenced to instruct him in reading ; but the prevalence of strong westerly winds and 43 rough weather, rendered our passage across the western oi;ean exceedingly tedious and uncomfort- able, and produced a state of things unfavourable to his advancement. On the 18th we had reached the 25th degree of west longitude, when an event of the most melan- choly nature occurred. During the early part of that day it blew fresh, accompanied at intervals by heavy squalls ; and, as the day advanced, the breeze in- creased, rendering a reduction of sail necessary. In carrying this into effect, about 1 p. m. several hands were sent out to stow the jib. While they were employed on ihl u :*"y, the ship plunged heavily into the sea, and .: ir..Uj named George Thomson, lost his hold, and was swept away. The commotion among the men on the forecastle, shewed to the others on deck, that some unusual event had hap- pened, and a piercing cry soon directed attention to the spot where the object of their solicitude had just emerged from the water. The rapidity with which we were sailing at the time, rendered fruitless any attempt made to assist him while passing ; but spars, and other light articles, were instantly thrown over- board, and means taken to stay the ship. She missed stays, however, in consequence of the heavy sea, and ere we could wear round before the wind, we had left him fur behind. I watched him anxiously, and he .struggled long, for the dark speck was seen on the fi m Fi>*.M ■»iii> wi w#»ii m >w 44 ri ' f I- » V. V bosom of the rolling wave, until lost in the distance. When we did succeed in overrunning the spot, no vestige of him was to be seen— -the waters had closed over him for ever. This lamentable occurrence cast a gloom over the crew, nor was Eenoo unaffected. He often reflected upon it, and it led him to speak of the casualties which sometimes happen to his own countrymen when their light canoes are taken by the rising gale. He mentioned, that the Innuit entertained the belief, that such of their tribe as were thus cut off, were at once transferred to a state of bliss. On questioning him farther regarding their ideas of a future existence, he stated that the Angkuts had informed him that they had frequently seen the spirits of the departed, and that the pleasures in which they revelled were essentially of the same character as those they had enjoyed in this life. He mentioned, too, that it was for this reason that, when any of the Esquimaux died, the bow and spear were buried along with the body, or thrown into the nearest water. He seemed to have no idea of future punishment, but he thought all would not be equally happy. He believed that the body did not lose its sensation when dead ; and he said, that in conse- quence of this belief, the Esquimaux are very careful in constructing their graves, lest the body should in any way be incommoded or oppressed. The care 45 which they display in building and roofing their sepulchres, had, on previous troyages, attracted my attention ; but I had conclui^ed that it was on ac- count of the rocky nature of th<) ground preventing their being interred in p,ny other way. It was in- teresting to observe the manner in which he endea- voured to make himself understood on the subject of the im) mortality of the soul. I did not understand the Esquimaux expression for soul or spirit, nor could he express it in English ; but after several ineffectual attempts to make me comprehend him, he succeeded by informing me that it was " some- thing small — all the same as he was, but not nook- kee or shounook" that is, neither flesh nor bone. On the 1st of May we fell in with numerous ice- bergs, although we had not passed the 38th degree of west longitude. These are seldom found so far to the eastward, but the long prevalence of westerly \vinds sufficiently accounted for their being here in the present instance. From observations made at the time, some of them were found to exceed 100 feet above the level of the sea, which, according to the usual allowance of one part above for nine below water, gives -an entire depth of 1000 feet. From the fact of the mass floating with its broadest part in the water, this calculation does not give its depth, but simply the relative proportions of ice above and below water. 46 These enormuus masses, against which the sea broke and raised its spray high in the air, presented a spectacle of the most terrific grandeur. But if dur- ing the day they were a fit sight for admiration, in the night-time they forinf i subject of the deepest anxiety. The barometer , ..id fallen — the sky looked wild — the breeze, the first favourable one we had ex- perienced, was fast freshening to a gale — and the ship., even under a great diminution of sail, was ploughing rapidly through the water — while the night was so dark that the danger might be too near to be avoided ere it could be seen. Every precaution was taken to guard against accident ; hands were placed upon the foreyard for the purpose of looking outj and instructed to observe the strictest vigilance in their duty. The night of the 2d passed in sleeplessness, certainly, but without any occurrence of moment, and the day when it broke, though it lighted our path through the waters, shewed also an increase of our danger. Streams of ice, the remains of icebergs broken up by the fury of the waves, lay scattered around, and icebergs in greater numbers than before. The gale speedily increased to a tempest, and the sea soon rose in proportion, renderini^; it hazardous to run, while to lay the ship to, was a measure, if possible, to bo avoided; because, should danger present it- self suddenly, which was likely to be the case in the night, she would then be too little under com- 47 mand to affurd a fair chance of clearing it. But dangerous although it was, there was no alternative, and the sails being all taken in, with the exception of the close-reefed main-top-sail, the ship was hove to. The following night was passed in watchful anxiety, but the morning's dawn shewed neither ice nor ice- berg, and during the day very few pieces were passed. Night again came, and with it our fears returned. A thick drizzling rain and hazy weather added to its gloom, and rendered the darkness yet more deep, and the sea broke so much, that it was difficult to distinguish ice from the white crest of the breaking surge. All that prudence, couple with the full knowledge of our critical situation, could suggest in the way of precaution, was had recourse to, and it was fortunate that we had been thus guarded ; for, about midnight, an iceberg was discovered so close under the lee bow, that for a time it seemed impossible to avoid it. Indistinctly seen through the almost impenetrable gloom, though scarce a ship's length off, lay the mighty mass, against which the huge waves, urged on by the fury of the tempest, rushed t"ery moment with terrific violence, to be flung back from the encounter as from a rock of adamant, again to mingle in the roaring abyss. Direct upon this we were driving, and it was obvious to all, that a collision under such circumstances would dash the vessel to pieces in an 48 ?i \ 0^ \ ,)^ instant. The utmost skill and decision were neces- sary lu meet the danger of the moment, but the meanc of escape being taken with promptitude and energy, the ship providentially wore clear. It is almost superfluous to observe, that the most vigilant watch was kept during the remainder of the night, and day-break looked forward to with the utmost solicitude. On the following day the weather mode- rated, and, rounding Cape Farewell, we gained the entrance of Davis' Strait. A great improvement had now taken place in Eenoolooapik's health. The cough had entirely left him, and he was fast regaining the olive complexion, \ which had faded considerably when he was in Britain. His spirits, too, were dated by being again in his native clime, and by often seeing objects with which he had formerly been familiar. Drawing now became one of his favourite amusements, and he soon attained a proficiency in this branch, exceed- ing our most sanguine expectations. His progress in writing too, which we had commenced to teach him, was highly respectable, but in reading he ad- vanced very slowly ; his imperfect knowledge of the English language being a constant obstacle in his way. It had been determined, for the reason already assigned, that we should not, at first, proceed to the examination of Tenudiackbeek, but pursue the intri- 41) cate and tedious ruuto by the eastern coast and Melville Bay, to the fishing stations on the western shore. In the event of our not obtaining a full cargo there, we intended then to take advantage of the information which Eenoolooapik had given ; or, should a successful fishery render this unnecessary, it was resolved to bring the ship to anchor in Durban harbour, and undertake a jcurney across the narrow isthmus which the Esquimaux had described as being there, and ascertain the existence at least of the reported sea. We therefore pursued a course which was likely to bring us to the edge of the ice about the 62d degree of north latitude, as is the custom with the whalers. This point we reached on the 12th May, and finding nothing to interest us, we left it, and proceeded to the northward. On the 16th we saw the east-land in the 66th degree, distant about 30 miles. The mountains still dis- played one uninterrupted covering of snow, and even the lower land near the shore was for the most part white — the lew uncovered spots which existed, and the dark faces of the precipices where snow could not rest, only serving, by contrast, to heighten the desolate nature of the scene. Eenoolooapik had frequently expressed a strong desire to see the eastern coast of the Strait, and to satisfy himself whether its inhabitants were similar to those of his own country. The moment he beheld H M no it, he cxclnime loose ice against the land-floe, debarred our further progress. The barometer had fallen con- siderably, and gave us reason to fear that it would blow fresh. Accordingly a bight in the land ice was selected as oflfering the best place of security for the ship. Into this we made fast, accompanied by a number of other vessels. The Bon Accord occupied the innermost situation, while ranged outside of her were the other ships, and, immediately under our tern, the Hecla, famed in northern discovery, lay ei moored. During the night it blew strongly, accom- panied by heavy squalls and showers of snow — the he pressing in with considerable violence. At seven A, M. on the 23d the gale freshened, and a heavy Hu>? < of ice bore directly down on the ships. A point of it caught the outermost vessel first, but by quickly sawing it off she escaped. The mass then gtL !ed along the sterns of the ships, and, taking the Hecla on the broad-side, in a moment crushed her to pieces. So rapid was the destruction of that noble vessel, that many of the crew had barely time to escape with such portions of their clothes as could be instantly laid hold of. When first nipped she lay over on her beam ends, and with the utmost des- patch her masts were cut away, in the vain hope that she would right again ; but the ice pursued its career, burying her beneath it. Absorbing as this scene was, the great probability of our own ship sharing the same fate in a few minutes prevented us standing by idle spectators. All were busy in removing such articles as were most likely to be useful, or were most conveniently taken away. The ice, the source of our danger, was also the depository of our stores, and thither every thing was conveyed. Scarcely was this duty finished when our worst fears seemed about to be realized. The floe, after destroying the Hecla, caught the Bon Accord on the starboard quarter, while on the 7-r ^t. y* / -^^ M fi2 I same bow slie was heavily pressed by the ships already mentioned — they being forced against her by the weight of the mass. Her larboard side rested against the land-floe, which at this place was unequal in its surface, thus increasing our chance of destruc- tion. The cracking of the timbers, — the leaning of the ship, — and the breaking of the casks in the hold, — demonstrated most emphatically the severity of the pressure. The oblique position into which the ship was thrown was unfavourable for resis- tance ; but, although her destruction was deemed inevitable, she sustained the pressure until the ice broke and aflbrded her room. During the time this scene had been enacting, Eenoolooapik, who, although sufficiently familiar with the ice, had never witnessed casualties from it on such a grand scale, seemed a good deal agitated. The bustle and confusion attending the removal of our effects to the ice, prevented him for a time from steadily fixing his thoughts on the danger of the ship; but no sooner was this accomplished than, ascertaining her perilous situation, he burst into tears. Although this may appear weak, he was by no means destitute of courage, for, during the voyage, when allowed to go in his canoe in pursuit of the narwal, or merely for his own amusement, we had seen him brave the most imminent dangers with fearless intrepidity. On the present occasion he ()3 seemed to anticipate the helpless condition in which he might be left, should any contingency deprive him of Captain Penny's protection. However, when all danger was over, he assumed his usual composure, and set aboi:it collecting such articles from the wreck, as he thought would be afterwards useful to him. The gale now gradually declined, and on the fol- lowing day it was quite calm. The various crews lending their assistance, a successful attempt was made to reach the wreck of the I. 3cla by sawing off a portion of the ice. INIost of the men's clothes were thus recovered, but unfortunately they also found access to the spirit store, from which they speedily extracted a large cask of rum. This rich prize was with the utmost despatch rolled upon the ice — the top knocked in with the first available instrument — and then a scene exceeding all description immediately followed. Every article capable of containing fluid was in immediate requisition, and when vessels of the ordinary description could not be obtained, they con- trived to supply the deficiency by various expedients. One man, whom I saw, being unfortunate in procur- ing a drinking cup of any common kind, sat down upon a hull mock of ice, and deliberately pulling off one of his large sea- boots, fought his way most stoutly to the cask, which it was no very easy matter to reach, seeing that it was surrounded by about 150 men; 'i U4 1 r > ,^' / 3^ f^ but after a hard conHict he gained it, then f.Ued hin buut, and departed in triumph. Others might be seen using their hats as drinking utensils ; and some again, with frugal foresight, secreting large stores in the boats belonging to their ships. One individual had been so busy, in this lust respect, as to attract the attention and call forth the censure of his com- panions; i>nd on returning for an addition to his '{ stock he was without ceremony forcibly taken and dipped head foremost into the cask, which fully satisfied his rapacious appetite. It is almost needless to mention that these copious draughts quickly re- duced them to the extreme of inebriation. As an example we may notice the case of a seaman who, I am sorry to say, belonged to the Bon Accord. This man had been sent along with others to perform some necessary duty on the ice, and within half an hour he was brought ba ^: in such a state of utter ;> insensibility that his companions thought him dying, ^ and requested me to see him. Thinking the case a very fit one for the application of the cold effusion, I had immediat*^ recourse to it, and with such effect that, after applying the second bucketful, his senses were so far restored that he imagined he had fallen into the sea, and struck out lustily as if swimming. He clutched an oar which happened to be lying within the range of his movements, with the grasp of desperation, and called loudly to his companions I m to help him out. I wns congratulating myself on the great efficacy of the remedy which I had employed, when my attention was called to an operation of a similar nature in course of performance on board a neighbouring ship. The nature of its action was the same as in the case which I have just detailed, but the method adopted was much more ingenious, and quite original. One end < T a rope was fastened round the body of the patient, the other passed through a block attached to the fore yard-arm and then descended to tiio deck, where it was arranged in such a way that the individual embraced by its opposite extremity could be raised and let fall sud- denly into the water. Several seamen were working this contrivance in a very energetic manner for the recovery of a soporose companion, and, judging from his struggles after each immersion, it seemed to be highly effectual in restoring sensation. It was much to be lamented that such a scene should have occurred at all, although one could hardly forbear smiling at some parts of the proceedings. But such is the infatuation of many of our sailors, that whenever an opportunity occurs for indulging in intoxicating liquors, they will embrace it under whatever circum- stances. All danger being over for the present, our chests were again taken on board the ship, which, in the meantime, had undergone a temporary repair—- large 111 00 M 'k i ■.y\^^ beams having been placed across the hold for the purpose of supporting the injured parts. On the 25th a slight change enabled us to move the ship into a more secure situation, where a proper dock was ctit out of the ice, and on the 20th a northerly wind produced such a change that we again com- menced to thread our way along the edge of the land- Hoe. However, on the 30th it again blew from the south, and, after running so long as the ice remained open, we were once more obliged to make fast and cut another dock. We had now reached the latitude of 75° 10' north, and Cape York, which forms the northern limit of Melville Bay, could be seen in very clear weather. The position which we occupied was one that afford- ed an extensive view of the coast of this bay, and it appeared to me to be the most dreary and desolate which is to be witnessed even in those latitudes. In fact it is nearly one continuous glacier, with some dark naked rocks protruding from it here and there. It seems to be the source whence the icebergs are annually sent forth in great numbers, and, as might be expected, they are found here on a scale of great magnificence. While coming up the Strait, but more particular- ly while in this Bay, I had numerous opportunities of witnessing the remarkable effect of refraction. Objects which, from their distance, would not have m been visible under ordinary circumstances, were seen high in the air, sometimes quite distinct in all their parts, at others broken and distorted, and frequent- ly altogether inverted. This peculiar state of the atmosphere is such, at times, that no object without the range of two or three miles can be seen in its real form. A ship, at this distance, will sometimes present a singular appearance — the hull perhaps ap- pearing to occupy its proper position in the water, while the topsails seem considerably elevated in the air and quite detached from the hull, and the top-gal- lant sails still more elevated and separated from every other part. On examining this for some time the appearance of things suddenly changes — all the sails becoming apparently united, but stretching upwards to a great height ; or the hull may appear to assume gigantic proportions, and the masts and sails to dwindle into the most dwarfish forms. The coast, when viewed through the atmosphere in this state, presents, as Captain Scoresby has remarked, the appearance of " variegated basaltic columns ;" every rock seems drawn out into a column, and the appear- ance is repeated several times, so that columns seem to be arranged in tiers, one row standing immediate- ly above another, or there may be a vacant space intervening between them. It would be vain to attempt a description of all the varieties of form which objects present when the condition of the iif ' I i I i I ] ■' ? \v^ ) \^ 68 atmosphere which gives rise to this curious phenome- non exists, for these are endless. But, besides being a matter simply of curiosity, refraction is of signal im- portance to the northern navigator, as it frequently points out to him the existence of open sea at im- mense distances, and by its indications his course is often guided. At the northern extremity of this Bay, the extra- ordinary phenomenon of red snow is seen. There have been three conjectures advanced respecting the cause of this singular appearance : some attributing it to the existence of a microscopical plant belong- ing to the class Cryptogamia, and the natural order Algce, and forming the species Prolococcus Nivalis of Agardh, and the Uredo Nivalis of M. Bauer — others conjecturing it to result from the presence of innumerable minute animals of the order Radiata — and a third party supposing it to be produced by he ordure of the little auk, a bird which abounds on the rocky shores of the Arctic Seas.* In 1 837 I had an opportunity of walking along the shore in the neighbourhood of some high clilFs which pre- sented a crimson aspect, resulting from the presence of \;his wonderful substance. It then appeared to me that the snow upon the shelves of the rocks and Ed. Cab. Lib. vol. i. pp. 10(i_9. '■ 1 69 at the foot of the precipices, where it exhibited a deep red colour, owed this to the immense numbers of birds which had their lodgment there. But in many places, especially in the valleys, the snow had a rose tint, which had no appearance of having been profhiced in the same way, and it is highly probable that it resulted from the presence of those minute plants. It is impossible, without a very narrow ex- amination, to determine accurately the cause of this appearance; but from whatever cause it results, if I might judge from the pleasure with which I myself beheld it, one of its uses seems to be to relieve the eye, wearied with the continual glare of those vast fields of snow. Speculations about final causes have been denounced as inimical to the interests of true science ; but surely it may be a legitimate exercise of reason, and in nowise prejudicial to sound philo- sophy, to trace the evidences of the Deity's benefi- cence as displayed in the numerous arrangements of nature. Thinking so, and feeling so, I cannot but remark that the eye, dazzled by the intense light which obtains over those snowy wastes, turns with avidity to, and finds relief in, a scene of such soften- ing and soothing beauty. With what delight must the Esquimaux, who are so passionately fond of red colours, gaze upon this singularly beautiful phe- nomenon ! May it not, then, be one of those beau- tiful adaptations of nature which prevail in every 1 11 ii 70 1 t ' it* V ?.* 1 ii 1 1 m ^'i J department of creation, and tell so powerfully and intelligibly of the wisdom and beneficence of the Great Author of all. J^m I CHAPTER IV. A PROFITABLE voyage can seldom be secured by visitint; the fishing banks on the western coast after the beginning of July. This season was now at hand, and such was the condition into which the ice had been brought by these repeated gales, t^at there wab very little chance of our being able to penetrate it at an early period. It was therefore determined that, should it not open before the 10th of that month, we would, if possible, extricate ourselves and proceed to the southward for the purpose of examining Tenu- diackbeek. This resolution was farther strengthened by observing that the rest of the ships were already seeking their way out. However, the ice remained so close about us, that before the day appointed fov leaving we should h ve found it impossible to move ; but on that date it opened a little, and we com- menced our return. Previous to this time all the ships had left, with the exception of five sail, which were moored in the same floe with the Bon Accord. I 72 m One of these now accompanied us ; the commanders of the others deemed it prudent to remain, in the hope, perhaps, that an eai ^y change might yet enable them to penetrate the barrier in time for the fishing. Although the course now determined on was one which would soon restore Eenoolooapik to his friends, yet ne was reluctant to relinquish the hope of a pasijuge being effected to Agumiut, as he termed the rj rthern part of the west coast. The sam*» spirit 'vliiA had actuated him in visiting Britain, produ^jfcd also the desire of being made better ac- quainted with those parts of his own country which he had not visited. Indeed, he seemed to possess in a high degree those faculties of mind which phreno- logists have adduced as finding their legitimate ex- ercise in the observation of the relative situation, extent, and peculiar appearances, of places. He also took particular delight in copying maps and charts, and in pointing out upon them such places as were familiar to him ; and, although he was ignorant of the r-iathematical principles of geography, he could delineate with remarkable precision the actual direc- tion of any coast, and the true position of its dififerent part*" He could trace the course which we had taken across the Atlantic, and would, at any time when asked, point o 5t tb« proper bearing of any place which we had visited. On the 12th we again passed the Devil's Thumb. 73 and with little difficulty reached the open water, which by this time extended to the Baffin Isles. It was deemed necessary to run close along the great body of ice which occupied the middle of the Strait, and to follow its sinuositifs for the purpose of ascer- taining whether it at any point presented an opening' leading to the westward. Off the above-mentioned Isles it appeared loose, and an attempt was imme- 1 diately made to penetrate it ; but, when about forty miles off the land, an unfavourable wind forced us again to seek the open water. From this point down to latitude (^6" we examined it minutely, but nowhere did it offer the slightest inducement for us to attempt a passage. In the last-mentioned latitude we saw the west-land, distant about forty miles. The intervening ice, however, was very heavy, and altogether impenetrable. Eenoolooapik felt deeply disappointed at our not being able to reach the land in the neighbourhood of Durban, in order that he might obtain information regarding his mother, of whom he said he had been thinking much lately. It seems that the Esquimaux hold the opinion that " coming events cast their shadows before," for he believed that these thoughts were tiie presentiments of some evil wliich had be- fallen her in his absence. On attempting to rally him out of this opinion, he replied that " the Innuit were all the same." a Vc' / t I i .1' i| i f : ■ 't I 74 If he had ever entertained any thought of return- ing to Britain with us, it was now evident, from the manner in which he employed himself, that he had abandoned such intention. He would still read or draw when asked to do so, but he preferred over- looking the operations of the cooper and carpenter, and spent a good deal of his time in constructing app.uutus for his future avocations. He anticipated thr Iinpression he would make on his countrymen by tiie information he would have to communicate to ^'ieiil, and stated that when the winter's storm con- fined '■h'^. Innuit to their huts, he would entertain them by a relation of the many things he had seen. He now underwent repeated and severe examina- tions regarding Tenudiackbeek, but he firmly ad- hered to his former statements. Indeed, had not anxiety for the result of the voyage prompted these questionings, there was no reason, from anything we had seen of him, to doubt what he had said, for he was remarkable for his strict adherence to the truth. On the 27th we had reached the latitude of 65", and were able to approach within about ten miles of the shore, near the point named Saunderson's Tower. We found the land to terminate abruptly here, and, although it was a^ain seen to the southw.ird, it appeared to be not less than seventy or eighty miles distant. This was a state of things which we were bv no means prepared to expect, for in the ordinary 76 charts the shore is hud down as 1)eing continuous to the southward until it reaches Cape Enderhy, which forms the northern extremity of Cumberland Strait, in latitude 63° 15'. Finding an inlet of such mag- nitude, the idea instantly occurred to us that this might be the entrance to Tenudiackbeek, and Eenoo was immediately called upon for his opinion. He accordingly went aloft, and after a careful examina- tion declared it to be as we had supposed. Correct observations being made, the ship's latitude was determined to be 65° I' ; thus proving that this spacious inlet was not the entrance to Cumberland Strait, but a place hitherto u'uliscovered. To this Captain Penny gave the name of Hogarth's Sound, in compliment to William Hogarth, Esquire, of Aberdeen, whose kindness and attention to Eenoo- looapik, when there, rendered him so well worthy of thr" honour. The ice was much narrower here than at any point we had previously visited, but it was still sufficient to prevent our entrance into the Sound. It was not, however, considered so formidable but that the first strong wind from the west might disperse it. We therefore resolved to wait for a change, and to examine it from time to time, to ascertain whether any alteration had taken })lfice. In making these examinations we were mut^ annoyed by the thick fog which almost constantly 111 -rzT-xcsz w 19 prevails near the confines of the Arcac Circle during the summer months. This fog is said lo be produced by the cold ice and water condensing the moisture with which the warm winds from the south come up loaded : or by the cold wind from the north condens- ing the vapour which arises from the comparatively warm water in the latitude of which we are speak- ing. In the bays and inlets, and indeed for a few miles all along the land, there is suflicient heat accumulated to enable the atmosphere to hold the moisture in solution, and the sky is therefore com- monly quite clear in such situations. On the 31st it blew a strong breeze from the south-east, which, although not in the most favour- able direction, had the effect of so dispersing the ice that on the 2d of August we were able to run within the entrance of the Sound. Beyond this a barrier still occupied its entire breadth, but we were in high hopes that, by watching the tides and taking advantage of the partial openings which they pro- duce, we would soon be able to overcome it. During the gale above-mentioned we h-'vl acci- dentally parted from the barque Truelo e. Captain Parker, who had accompanied us in the hope of making a fortunate voyage. But, when the weather cleared up, we descried two vessels in the offing, which we recognised as the Lady Jane and Lord Gambler, both of Newcastle. Concluding that these vessels 77 also were in search o'' this place, in consequence of Eenoolooapik's report respecting it, we made a signal for them to follow us, lest they should pass on to Cumberland Strait, which was then supposed to be the entrance to Tenudiackbeek. A nearer view now enabled Eenoolooapik to re- cognise many places on the eastern shore, within a few miles of wi ich Ave were; and he particularly pointed out one place named by the Esquimaux Tuackduack, which he had long before informed us v/e should find to bear a very exact resemblance to Cape Searle. So striking indeed was the resem- blance, that all who had seen the last-mentioned promontory at once perceived the similarity. He was not, however, so well satisfied with the western shore, for he seemed to think that it should have been farther distant. This we supposed to arise from his having seen it formerly out of the oomiak, when close to the east side, whereas he was now not only nearer to it, but also much more elevated, and the weather remarkably clear. The eastern coast stretched to the north-north- west, by compass, for about forty miles, when it terminated in a projecting point, which we named Cape Crombie, after Mr Crombie, owner of the Bon Accord. This coast, so far as it was visible, was, as Eenoo had led us to believe, high and ironbound, excavated by a few bays, and having some small M di\ ( M •, / '"''./ Eenoo's having visited Britain, but they shewed not the slightest emotion on meeting him, and no greet- ing of any kind passed between them, farther than / what we have described. When questioned regard- ing the whales, they stated that they had seen them very numerous, on the previous day, a little to the south of Keimooksook ; and they advised us to return to that part, but they at the same time mentioned that 7 >y 82 5 L?' r they believed we would find them still plentiful in Kingoua. They all agreed in stating that the latter place was the principal resort of the fish; and it was therefore thought best to proceed to it at once. They informed Eenoo that his irother was well, and that, fearing that the ship would not reach Durban in consequence of the ice, she was coming round to Keimooksook, where she supposed he would be landed. Thin information gave him great satisfac- tion, as he was very fond of his mother ; indeed, she was the only one of his kindred to whom he was at aP attached, and we felt rather disappointed at not having an opportunity of witnessing their meeting. Eenoo related sonie particulars of his voyage to his cousins, and it was observed that among the first things he told them was the manner in which the Esquimaux of the east-land spoke. He shewed them the fowling-pieces he had brought along with him. These they viewed with much surprise I their use being explained, they expressed a wis.. 1.0 have their power tested. A mark was accordingly hung in a convenient situation, and, after seeing Eenoo fire, one of them was persuaded to try it himself. He was a little timid at urst, but at length he took the piece and fired. He seemed vastly pleased when he saw that he had hit the mark. They shewed us some splendid archery — one of them, in particular, repeatedly putting an arrow 1 ^ 83 y through a hole about an inch in diameter, at the distance of about seventy feet. They advised Eenoo not to return to Britain, and, had Captain Penny consented, he would have left us and gone with them then, but we had further occasion for his services. They remained on board until taken about fifty miles from home ; and, indeed, they shewed no wish to leave us, but becoming concerned for their safety, we were obliged to dismiss them. Before departing they received a few presents from Eenoo, on which they shewed a tendency to evince their gratitude in the manner of those of our first visitors ; but Eenoo was considerably displeased at their want of decorum, and instantly interfered to repress their extravagance. At length they went away apparently highly delighted with the treatment which they had received. Pursuing our way up the Sound, in the evening ^'e were opposite the place which the Esquimaux named Kinga'ite. To this the name of Beaufort's Inlet was applied. The channel was now becom- ing narrower, and numerous small islands were seen stretching across a considerable part of it to the northward. The western coast, of which we had ob- tained a very good view, answered Eenoo's description well, as it seemed to be a complete maze of islands — the mainland being seldom seen. These islands were barren and naked, but being completely free from -fWWWWHHW II :l 84 snow, they had a rather milder appearance than the eastern shore, which was still bold and craggy. The weather was so warm and beautiful that, but for the occasional streams of ice which we encountered, we could scarcely have supposed ourselves navigating an arctic sea. We now began to feel very anxious about the fishery, for, though we had passed some very fine streams of ice, no whales had been seen. The greasy appearance of the water, and the peculiar odour which it emitted, shewed that they had lately been there in vast numbers ; and so high were our hopes of making a successful voyage, that immediately on getting clear of the ice we made preparations for the fishing on a large scale. On the evening of the 11th we stood over towards the eastern side, and in the morning were within a few miles of the land. A great number of small islands seemed almost to shut up the passage to the northward, but, among numerous openings, Eenoo- looapik pointed out one as leading to Kingoua, of which we were then in search. The navigation of it, however, was much to be dreaded, as there seemed to be numerous sunk rocks and reefs, and we were anxious to fall in with some of the natives, as they are generally very well acquainted with the situations of these hidden dangers. We at length descried four natives in their canoes passing between some islands, 85 '* i but they appeared rather inclined to avoid than to ap- proach the ships. Eenoo was therefore despatched in his canoe for the purpose of bringing them on board. At this moment our attention was attracted by a circumstance which I must here pause to notice. Mr Jamieson, the Surgeon of the Lady Jane, had accidentally received a gun-shot wound which had proved fatal, and this was the time chosen for the interment of his remains. The half-hoisted ensign, and the boats leaving the ship with their colours lashed down, apprised us of the event, and I took a boat and accompanied the melancholy procession. The day was calm and exceedingly beautiful, and nature herself seemed pensive and sad. We landed on a point which looked as if formed for the resting- place of strangers from a milder clime. It was a smooth verdant platform, and at this time smiling with flowers, — an Eden in the wilderness, — forming a pleasing contrast with the naked sterile rocks all around, and seeming to tell of a heavenly paradise of permanent rest and bliss, when the rugged paths and bleak storms of this life are all passed and over. A high rock rose abrupt and precipitous from the green and flowery spot — a grand and enduring monument to mark the grave of the unfortunate youth. It was a moment of deep feeling and interest, for, though no father, or brother, or kindred, were there, to " lay his head upon the lap of earth," there 86 were not wanting kind and affectionate hearts to sigh over his solitary resting-place, as we bade a silent farewell to the hallowed spot. His name will be perpetuated where his ashes rest, for the towering cliff, at whose base he was buried, was by common consent denominated " Jamieson's Monument." On returning to the ship I found that Eenoo had induced the natives to come on board. Their canoes were loaded with whalebone, which seemed to be from an animal very recently killed. They stated that the whales had been very abundant until the ice broke away from the land, after which they gradually disappeared. They still, however, held out hopes of our getting some in Kingoua, and with a degree of caution which was not to be expected from them, they recommended, through Eenoo, who acted as inter- preter, that we should not enter that place with the ship, in consequence of the tide running with great rapidity through the narrow parts of the inlet. It was therefore determined to seek a harbour for the ship, and send an exploratory expedition in boats for the above purpose. Very fortunately, excellent anchorage was discovered close to the entrance of the inlet, and the ship was immediately brought up. On the shore of this harbour was situated the Esquimaux village of Noodlook. The whole inha- bitants, men, women, and children, were speedily on board the ships, and the presence of Eenoolooapik 87 '1: rendered the Bon Accord a centre of citt^'nction. We were first visited by the male part of the popu- lation in their canoes, then came the oomiak con- taining the women and children, under the guidance of an old man ; and a most active and noisy traffic immediately ensued. They were all aware of Eenoo having been to Britain, and they crowded round him to learn the particulars of his voyage. In relating some of his adventures he chiefly addressed himself to Coonook, the adopted daughter of Aaniapik, the old man mentioned before as guiding the oomiak. The features of this girl were naturally of a pleasant cast, and on this occasion they were more than ordinarily attractive. Since coming on board her face had been washed, her jet black hair combed, braided, and decorated with ribands ; and, in short, she displayed such a profusion of charms as imme- diately won the regard of Eenoo. It soon became evident, from his behaviour towards her, that she \ was acquiring a powerful influence over him, and had any doubt remained upon the subject, it would have been dispelled by seeing the severe rubbing of noses which took place between them — such being the manner in which the Esquimaux testify their afiection towards each other. This was followed by a request, on the part of Eenoo, that I would imme- diately marry them, all the same as the Kudloonite. Not having, however, taken holy orders, I declined i\ I i i\ II f • i officiating on the present occasion. Eenoo, love-sick as he was, did not on that account resign himself to despair, for many long conferences might be seen taking place between him and Aaniapik, the result of which was, that, provided Captain Penny con- sented, Eenoo was to give his green painted canoe for the beautiful Coonook, and this canoe was to become the property of Aaniapik's youngest son, he himself being unable from the infirmities of age to manage it. Captain Penny being at the time en- gaged with other more important matters, the cir- cumstance passed over without his attention. It may be remarked that this affords an illustra- tion of the Esquimaux ceremonial of marriage. Presents are offered to the parents of the lady, and if accepted, the matter is considered as settled. These contracts are sometimes entered into at a very early age; but it would seem that, on arriving at maturity, the parties may break the engagements under cer- tain circumstances. Coonook had been betrothed to another when a child, but the importance which Eenoolooapik had acquired by his. visit to Britain, was considered sufficient to nullify any previous engagement. On the morning after our arrival at Noodlook, Captain Penny set out on his exploratory expedition to Kingoua — Aaniapik and Eenoo accompanying him. The former had gone principally for the 89 purpose of bartering a quantity of whalebone, wliich was still attached to the animal on the spot where it had been dragged on shore. During the day I visited the village and inspected its arrangements. 1 1 consisted of seven summer huts, which, from the migratory habits of the Esquimaux, \ were necessarily of a very portable description. Two poles with their ends resting upon the ground, and inclining till they met at the top, were placed for each end of a hut. These were connected by another laid along between them for the purpose of support- ing the roof. A covering, made of seal skins sewed together, was laid over this frame and fastened to the ground by means of stones placed along its border. One end of the hut was close, at the other the cover- ing was disposed like a curtain, which served as a door. These tents formed the only protection of the Esquimaux during summer; and indeed I have seen them sleeping in the open air, with no other couch than the hard rock afforded, and no covering save the blue vault of heaven. The outside of some of the huts was rather neat, but an examination of their in- ternal economy was by no means so satisfactory. The lamp commonly stood on the middle of the floor, and the skins used for bedding, articles of dress, and pieces of seals' flesh, and other substances for food, were strewed carelessly around. The utensils in which they prepare their food, when they find it N I i 90 }• ? n n n convenient to give it any preparation, were composed of stones hollowed out in a very neat and ingenious manner. Their lamps too were of the same material, and the wicks were formed of dried moss. Many of their articles were constructed with considerable ingenuity, but every thing was shockingly dirty, and little or no order observed in the arrangement of their domestic affairs. Outside the huts, a number of the junior members of the community were amus- ing themselves riding on the dogs, and by such other sports as seemed to them best. A few boys, appa- rently about ten years of age, were sitting astride a rock and working vigorously in the water with a paddle; and I understood that it was thus they were first taught the use of that instrument, in working which they afterwards acquire so much dexterity. A party of older Esquimaux were occu- pied in alleviating the pangs of hunger by devouring the boiled carcass of a seal. As I approached they made room for me to sit down, and invited me to join in the repast. Of their proffered hospitality I, however, declined to partake. They suffered no interruption in their meal, but went on at a rate which threatened quickly to exhaust the supply before them. Turning from these, I walked on to examine a very small hut which was situated a little apart from the others. It seemed to be incapable of containing more than one person, and what was still 01 more singular, it uppeared to be quite close, with the exception of a small hole at the top. My approach apparently disturbed the inmate, for a head sud- denly emerged from the aperture, and I was not a little surprised to discover that it belonged to the fair Coonook, whose charms had made such an im- pression on our friend Eenoo on the preceding even- ing. I was about to address her, when one of the Esquimaux touched me on the arm and requested me to assist him with the oomiak, which the others were now employed in hauling upon the beach. I easily understood that this was meant to divert my attention, as there were more around the oomiak than were required to move it; and the thought immediately flashed upon my mind that the girl was under a periodical separation, like that recorded of the Jewish females in Sacred Writ. It appeared to me somewhat singular that a custom forming part of the prescribed ordinances of the Mosaic economy should also obtain among the unenlightened savages of the Arctic Zone. I need not say that I paid instant respect to the delicate and ingenious manoeuvre of the Esquimaux, and immediately retired with him to the party at the oomiak. ^ At the period of our visit there were about forty inhabitants at the village, but they stated that dur- ing winter their number would be much increased — the majority of their tribe having gone to the lakes f i ,( s ' !• ii (of which there were many not far distant) for the purpose of catching salmon. There were also num- bers of them inland at the deer-hunting. The practice of tatooing their faces is universal among ihe females after marriage, but very few cases have come under my observation where it was done before that auspicious event. From this circum- stance, we had no dil9iculty in distinguishing those who had been at the Hymeneal altar. Whatever notions the Esquimaux might attach to this custom in respect to its adding charms to their female partners, it appeared to me to have a very opposite . tendency even in youth, and in old age it is perfectly frightful. In this process they do not depict any re- gular figures, but simply make straight lines. These commonly diverge from the lower lip and angles of the mouth like rays, and one proceeds up the ridge of the nose, and dividing, extends over each eyebrow. The Esquimaux here informed us that the pre- ceding winter had been unusually severe, and that I many of the neighbouring tribes had suffered dread- fully from famine. So awful had been their condi- tion, that they were driven to the horrible alternative of eating the body of one young man who had died. The huts of these unfortunate creatures were seen standing lonely and deserted on a neighbouring island, and the yet unburied remains of their former . inhabitants lay scattered around. Ii I 93 > On the morning of the 14th, Captain Penny returned to the ship. He had been about forty miles up the inlet, but his search after the whales had been completely unsuccessful. At every place he had visited he found confirmation of the statements of the Esquimaux regarding the number in which the fish are at some seasons to be found there. Bones were to be seen strewed on the beach in every direc- tion, and at the place to which Aaniapik guided them, they found a very large fish which had been killed about ten days before. It was supposed that there were not less than twenty tuns of blubber piled upon the beach at this point. Near the same spot there were also the remains of former victims in great abundance. From the top of an adjoining hill they could trace the continuity of the land all round ; but as there was no prospect of better suc- cess in the discovery of the whales, they went no farther, but returned to the ship. In the course of this expedition they had seen some of the natives who inhabit the shores of this inlet. From them they learned that for some days back no whales had been seen, but the Esquimaux observed that if they would wait until the sun was low they would find them again very plentiful. Old Aaniapik, who, as before mentioned, accom- panied Captain Penny up Kingoua, was so much excited by the recital of Eenoo's adventures, that. \\ m 04 r though tottering on the brink of the grave> he began to entertain the wish of also taking a voyage to Britain, and he had confidentially told Eenoo, that if invited to accompany us home, he would not make any objection. He seemed to think that, in con- sequence of his former acquaintance with Captain Penny (whom he had seen at Durban), he had a perfect right to do what he pleased on board, and being a harmless creature, he was not interfered with unless he shewed a wish, which he sometimes did, to appropriate to himself some small moveables to which he had no title whatever. These thefts were commonly committed quite openly, and Eenoo's in- terference speedily produced a restoration of the stolen property. He was a great favourite with the sailors, who had nicknamed him Commodore Timothy; and to make his appearance correspond with his title, they had dressed him in a blue jacket and canvas trowsers, with a cocked hat profusely decorated with red tassels. In this guise he strutted about with great dignity, and seemed to think himself fit only to be admired. He presented such a ludicrous figure in the uiaform in which the sailors had invested him, that I was induced to attempt a sketch of his ap- pearance ; but I was severely punished for my rash performance. Eenoo noticed what I was about, and having a leaning towards the venerable Aaniapik on 95 account, perhaps, of the lovely Coonook, and feeling besides for the honour of his countryman, and kind- ling to think that he should be the sport of an idle penciller, repaid me, with interest, in a most wicked caricature, which would have baffled even Cruik- shank to have made more comical. I have already spoken of the pretensions of the Angkuts m reference to curing disease, but it may be here remarked that their power is only supposed to extend to internal and obscure affections. Severe injuries from external violence, such as wounds and fractures, are of common occurrence among the Es- quimaux, as might be expected from the perilous nature of their pursuits. Experience has taught them that the incantations of the i^ngkut avail not in such cases, and in these they have therefore adopted a different and more rational mode of cure. The treatment of such injuries is entrusted to those to whom long years have brought experience and wisdom. Such was old Aaniapik, and the great ingenuity which he displayed in his practice deserves particular notice. I had first met him at Durban in 1835, and at that time I had a case of fracture under my care. He came on board the ship shortly after the occurrence of the accident i and on learn- ing its nature, he immediately went ashore, and soon returned bringing with him some dried salmon skins, which he instructed me to soak in water until they '^1 I 1 )^i 1 ^i '■ \\ 1^ I ■B 96 became quite soft, then to wrap them one by one round the fractured limb, and allow them to harden in that situation. Although I did not think fit to follow his advice in the treatment of this case, yet the ingenuity of the plan, and the great similarity which it bears to a practice sometimes adopted by surgeons in this country, struck me forcibly. On making further inquiry into the matter, I found that this was not their only method of treating fractures. In some coses they use splints and bondage, but they err in allowing the patient to move about during the cure ; hence their practice is not always successful. On that occasion Aaniapik requested my advice relative to o disease of his eyes, which, on examination, I found to require a trifling surgical operation. He submitted to this without scruple, and, for the time, it was productive of the desired effect. On meeting him at Noodlook in 1840, 1 was disappointed to find that his disease hod returned, and, indeed, it threatened soon to deprive him of sight. I advised him again to submit to the opera- tion, but, though he readily consented, he shrunk from the application of the knife, and I was ulti- mately obliged to desist from the attempt. It is painful to think of the wretched condition which would soon be the fate of poor Aaniapik. Day by day his sight was becoming more impaired, and rendering him less fit for the duties which were still 97 required of him ; and erelong total blindness would render him unable to contribute in any way to the welfare of the community, when his state would be one of unalleviated misery. When the fierce blast of the winter storm rages along those desolate shores, and sweeps with resistless fury across the frozen surface of the deep, famine often reduces the miser- able inhabitants to the extremity of distress, and the old and infirm are neglected and allowed to starve. Such would be the portion of poor old Aaniapik, and such is the fate of many in that rigorous dime- cast off in their infirmity from the sympathies of kindred, and left to perish without help or hope. J.->4,: >-■_■: ':•*.** Y^::u- * - /j-<.-\.i, J I ■ o CHAPTKR V. ■i We had up to this time entertained the most san- guine expectations of making a fortunate fishing in this place ; but now, after Captain Penny's return from Kingoua with no better prospect, our hopes forsook us. But, although mortified at our want of success, it was some consolation to think that EenoO' looapik had practised no deception towards us. We had everywhere met with abundant testimony of the truth of what he had stated, and it was evident that his information might have been turned to good account had the examination of the Sound been gone about in an earlier part of the season. In saying this, however, I do not mean to animadvert on the conduct either of Captain Penny or the owners of the ship. The fishery in Hogarth's Sound had not yet been tried, and the evidence of its existence rested solely on the word of Eenoolooapik. The Admiralty, as before mentioned, had declined to afford any aid in the matter, and it was scarcely to be expected that 90 the owners of the ship would, on the word of a stranger and a b&rbarian, venture on an untried field of enterprise, without some assurance of indem- nification in case of failure ; and as regards Captain Penny, he pursued the only course which prudence warranted. He took the precaution of first attempt- ing the fishing by the usual route, but, finding that impracticable, he returned with the view of testing the correctness of Eenoolooapik's statements respect- ing the existence of Tenudiackbeek, and its capabi- lities as a whale-fishing station. His perseverance in investigating the facts connected with the Sound, and his strenuous exertions to render the voyage prosperous, must be already apparent, and require no comment from me. Our attention was now turned to the place to which Eenoo's cousins had at first directed us, and it was therefore, determined that we should again go south waYd; r Oh tfi* evtrtlftg' of th« Uth a light breeze , enabled us, to le^ve the harl>pui:. For two or thtffi days we made but.littl6 pitigrl^ss — 'ttie winds being light and variable. The navigation under these circumstances was rather critical, from the very strong tides which run in the upper part of the Sound rendering the ship unmanageable when surrounded on all sides by low islands and sunken rocks. A smart breeze at length came from the south, which, though it laid us under the necessity ii *wp- 100 i iy^ of plying to windward, afforded us an opportunity of examining and delineating the shores more cor- rectly than we could do in running up. The name of Davidson's Inlet was given to Kingoua, after another of Eenoo'3 friends in Aberdeen, and that of Bon Accord was applied to the harbour in which we had been. Appellations were also bestowed on such other places as, from their situation and appearance, were deemed worthy of names. On our passage down, Eenoo entertained us with the relation of various circumstances connected with the different points which we visited. He related one event of a rather calamitous character that had occurred on a low island which we passed. A family of Esquimaux had encamped there during the winter, and constructed their huts on a low point near the shore, when the tide, raised by a heavy gale, forced up the ice, surprised them in their 8}eep,.and buried them all benevith it,*witli tbe exCeptii&fi* if ' Mie poor woman, who escaped destruction at-the.time^ only /to perish;aft,e*watd8l)y cd'd. " » .«:»''» • ., .- Our examination of the coast to the south proved, so far as our success in the fishery was concerned, equally unsuccessful with our investigations in the north. Now and then, when we were able to pene- trate to any distance among the islands which are crowded along the western shore, we saw some small whales, but they never presented themselves in situa- 101 tioni favourable for their capture. The Esquimaux could give us no information where the whales had gone to, but we inferred from the above circumstance, that when the ice leaves the Sound, some of them at least seek shelter among thoso islands, whither it is impossible to follow them. On the 20th, being close to the land within a few miles of Keimooksook, we were visited by about sixty of the natives — great numbers of whom were related to Eenoolooapik. They were the finest tribe we had hitherto seen ; and Eenoo's near relations in parti- cular were much superior in point of personal ap- pearance to the rest. Eenoo informed us that one of his cousins was chief, or, as he expressed it, captain of the tribe. There seemed to be but little difference between the chief and the others ; nor could I ever learn what was the nature of the allegiance they owed him. Eenoo was anxious to accompany them on shore, and as there appeared to be no probability of our being able to land him at Durban, it was considered a fit opportunity for allowing him to leave us. The authority of his cousin would, it was thought, secure him from any ill treatment ; but, indeed, we had no occasion to fear such at the hands of his countrymen. We were by this time quite satisfied concerning the safety of his property ; for we had seen that though they would steal from us whenever they had an opportunity, yet among themselves they practised 102 1 I the strictest honesty. And even on board the ship, when they coveted anything, it was suffioient to say that it belonged to Eenoo, and they would instantly let it alone. Eenoolooapik's education was now so far ad- vanced that he understood the method of convey- ing his thoughts in writing, and for some time back he had been contemplating writing a letter to Mr Hogarth. Although the resolution which he had formed of immediately departing with his country- men left him little time for this purpose, neverthe- less, he set about it and produced the letter, of which we here present our readers with a fac simile, and a translation ; as, besides being a literary cu- riosity, it will enable them to judge of the rapid progress which he had made in that department of learning. The little time now left him necessarily rendered the letter brief; much more so, indeed, than he had at first intended. A few days previous to the time of which we speak, he had drawn out a scroll of what he intended to introduce; and, although we cannot publish that document, it may not be un- interesting to notice its contents. After acquainting Mr Hogarth with his arrival, and his intention to remain at Keimooksook, he proceeded to draw a comparison betwixt the condition in which he would live there and that to which he had been accustomed while in Aberdeen. He dwelt particularly upon the t : /A'^'VC^W^ y {//KtC// '^ym^a w ,*r^.Y-f^j?yi^r<^ , ^r-^t 0/a^ yAa^/ /n^^'' /y^^^yOR^ i^^ cc- /r^^^ ,r//rry^ /.^y// // /• '^^16' ^iS cjlC A^^a,^7v^ay Cau/j ?^ ^ ^tzjit^- i.*-c^6 a:^^^ €^^^tA3^/^^^u/- 4. '<5i/i%^e«?^/^j/^ y C^A ^y ^S'%,^?i^t^*ty^^^^^^<^ >^ A/ /T-^ A^Z-^t^^ca^U^^n^ . 4{yu^ -U/fy/l(4S^^ fir/- 'i^ttr /^t /^f'*r /^rr^t*:/^ //hrZ^^/J, ^!^^^^.//////%<^ a^4^y -^«z./ a/ff-cva^^ .^yft- ■ Jrn^'CU-a.C'^^eriC', a^^ e^»^C0*t^ ^*ty ' ^t'-m/0/ii/X' ) ^ .^rr^y' a^^ft^ ^ . 103 filthy habits of the Esquimaux and the miserable huts in which they live^ as compared with the ele- gance and comfort of the apartments which he had seen and lived in when in this country. But though he thus shewed that he knew the full extent of the sacrifice which he was making, he stated it as his firm determination to remain in his own country, at least for the present. He mentioned, however, that should a favourable opportunity occur, at some future time he might be induced again to visit Britain. We may be apt to think that he shewed a strange and unnatural predilection in thus choosing to forego the advantages of civilized life, and return to the | barren hi: ints of his early childhood ; but let us only think of the deep and uneradicable associations that cluster and cling around the home of our own earl years, and our surprise at Eenoolooapik's resolution^ will be qualified. It was Nature's earnest promptings! that urged him to return to the land of his birth ; I for, dreary and desolate though it might appear to \ others, its snow-clad hills and craggy cliflfs were to J him as the faces of familiar friends ; and, besides, \ there were the strong and enduring claims of ma- 1 ternal relationship binding him to home — principles which, we have seen, reigned paramount in his ingenuous nature when laid on a bed of languishing and apparent death. I have already mentioned that his long and severe ^^h d^.^: "^^ ^'t I 104 illness while in Aberdeen had prevented any steps from being taken for his instruction in religion. During the voyage, I had repeatedly endeavoured to convey to his mind some idea of the nature of the Christian system^ and had attempted to convince him that the incantations of the Angkuts were mere impo- sitions. I succeeded in making him understand that our belief was very different from his, and also that it was derived from the Bible. More than this I can- not say that I accomplished. My limited acquain- tance with his language rendered it impossible for me to express myself in an intelligible manner; neither could he understand me when I attempted to ex- plain my meaning in English. I frequently read and assisted him to read portions of the Scriptures translated into the Esquimaux language, and used at the Danish settlements on the eastern side of the Strait; but there were many difficulties in the way of his understanding these also. We often came to words and passages which he could not at all under- stand, and on such occasions he stated that these passages were not " Innuit speak." After reading a passage, I was in the habit of making him attempt a translation of it into English ; and he sometimes succeeded wonderfully. As an example we may give the 19th verse of the 1st chapter of Matthew, which, without assistance, he translated from the Esquimaux as follows : — ** Joseph, by and by her 1i ! I! 105 / liusband, a very good man, wanted to put her away when nobody see." Notwithstanding that he assent- ed generally to our superior intelligence, he would not be convinced that the Angkuts were impostors. But, indeed, there was nothing in this but what might naturally have been expected of him, for it would not have been reasonable to have given up his belief at a mere bidding, especially when we could not, from the difficulties already detailed, instruct him in any other doctrine. A copy of the Scriptures, which his friends in Aberdeen had procured for him, translated into the Esquimaux language, was left in his possession, but it is scarcely to be expected that he could succeed in understanding it with the slender literary acquirements which he possessed. He stated that he would speak of it to the Angkuts ; and on one occasion he asked whether, after we got to the Sound, I would try them with the Bible. This appeared to me to be an indication that he had some vague apprehension of its nature, and, had time and proper assistance been allowed him, I have little doubt but the mists of superstition which clouded his mind would have yielded to the purifying and en- lightening influences which accompany the reception of Christianity into the soul. About 5 p. M., all being in readiness for his depar- ture, a small skiff was presented to him, and in it his effects were stowed, at least so many of them as p 106 i I it would hold^ for he had collected an immense quantity of indescribable articles. He then left the ship amidst the cheers of the crew, with all of whom he was a great favourite — his Esquimaux brethren, in their canoes. Captain Penny, Mr Allan the chief mate, and myself, accompanying him. When we landed we selected a sheltered spot and erected a hut for him to spend the night in, as he was not to proceed to the settlement until the following morn- ing. A few of his relations agreed to stop with him all night, and the rest of the Esquimaux encamped on a small island close at hand. Every thing being arranged to his entire satisfaction, we shook hands with him and bade him farewell ! He shewed not the least emotion at parting with us, but after re- turning our farewell cheer, with the utmost sang froid turned about after his own business, " nor cast one longing lingering look behind." This is a trait of character common among the Esquimaux ; but as I am now to offer a few remarks upon the characteristic qualities of Eenoolooapik's disposition, I will merge the description of this peculiarity of the race in the review which I take of his mental constitution. I do not mean to advert to the whole of Eenoolooapik's mental character, but only to the more prominent features of it as displayed in the various situations in which we have seen him placed ; and in doing so we may see how far these faculties 107 are in harmony with the circumstances by which he had been surrounded. The best marked feature in his mental constitu- tion was the an;ple development of those faculties on which the attainment of geographical knowledge depends ; and it will be recollected that the first cir- cumstance which attracted attention to him at all, was the extent of his acquirements in that department. The facility with which he had acquired this know- ledge is apparent from his having only once sailed between Keimooksook and Durban along the coast, the features of which, after a long interval of time, he described with such remarkable accuracy. I am inclined to believe, not only from my own observa- tion, but also from the accounts given by Parry and others, that the Esquimaux generally possess the mental faculties necessary for this attainment in a pretty high state of perfection ; and when we con- sider that they are forced from their situation to derive almost their whole subsistence from the sea, and often obliged for this purpose to undertake long journeys, and necessarily migratory in their habits— the necessity for such observational capacities appears abundantly obvious. The readiness, too, with which Eenoolooapik acquired the power of communicating this knowledge — his using rude sketches for the pur- pose of making himself understood when language altogether failed him, and the fondness which he ]08 shewed for drawing, all affurd additional evidence of the activity of the same elementary faculties of mind acting in a different manner in consequence of the difference of his situation. Again, the de- velopment of several of these faculties, combined with constructiveness, is strongly illustrated in the ingenuity and neatnese displayed by the Esquimaux in the construction of their canoes, fishing apparatus, and articles of dr^ss; and it was probably this combination which enabled Eenoolooapik so readily to comprehend the various mechanical contrivances which were shewn him. When we reflect on the little that nature has done for the Esquimaux, and the great ingenuity required to construct from the slender stock at their disposal the means necessary for procuring subsistence, we cannot fail to see the vast importance of possessing such a mechanical tal'Snt. The faculty of imitation which, as we have before mentioned, Eenoolooapik possessed in a very high state of activity, is rather different in its nature from those we have just noticed, and would, at first sight, appear to be rather a useless quality ; but it would have been an extraordinary circumstance to have found in him a faculty highly developed which had not been subservient to some important end. Accord- ingly we find, on looking more narrowly into the habits of tLe Esquimaux, that this power is common 109 amung them, and is uf signal consequence. By pos- sessing it they are enabled to imitate the cries of the various wild animals which roam over those track- less wastes, and thus to bring them within the range of their seldom erring shaft. It was no doubt the exercise of the same faculty, directed to a different purpose, and combined with a pretty large endow- ment of self-respect, which enabled Eenoolooapik to conduct himself with such propriety on his first in- troduction to civilized society. His fondness for theatrical amusements — his comprehending the re- presentations with readiness — and his disposition to humour and caricature, are evidently all traceable to the combination of the imitative power with secretiveness and wit, which existed in his mental constitution, and the general activity of the intellec- tual faculties, which distinguished him above many in civilized life. The thievish disposition of the Esquimaux is mat- ter of notoriety, and seems to indicate a great want of concientiousness; but Eenoolooapik evidently pos- sessed a greater share of this sentiment than gene- rally falls to the lot of his brethren. For, though he carefully collected whatever was likely to be useful, in no instance did he display a wish to appropriate what he had not the clearest title to take. The same sentiment was also manifested in his strict adherence tu the truth. His love tu his maternal parent has 110 been frequently referred to in this narrative, and was a trait in his character which might be copied with advantage by many reared under more favour- able circumstances. But, while he exhibited this pleasing trait in common with the rest of his country- men, he also shared with them in that obtuseness of feeling which leads them to look with indifference on the happiness or misery of all others around them. He met his relations and native acquaintances, and parted with us, without the slightest emotion. Yet he had evinced many commendable qualities, and, on the whole, had much that was amiable about him ; and, perhaps, had his intercourse with society, where the higher sentiments are cultivated, been of longer duration, this apathetic disposition might have been modified. It is pleasing to think that, in visiting this country, he has learned nothing that will tend to degrade him. On the contrary, we may hope that his residence among us may have imbued his mind with some noble principles which may tend to soften the remaining barbarity of his nature, and in the evolution of Time's dark mysteries, become subser- vient to the good of the hyperborean races. Under the influence of these bright hopes, we bid him — Farewell ! Having disposed of Eenoolooapik, we proceeded to examine the state of the ice at the entrance of the Sound, in order to determine whether we could " wfc«.4*rf,v>*a**>*«w*rt«nvfi -jk M*^-- . ' mmm tive, and >e copied B favour- ited this country- seness of lifference nd them. icesj and m. Yet , and, on It him ; f, where f longer ve been ing this tend to pe that mind soften in the mbser- Under lim — eeded nee of could c J}L W ii|h m f^t «»p la. «M iLi M ■-\ . *;> (JJl-^W/O'Tjy <{& o/'f^fr S/fift *'Jiori ^Itr^ortf ff^y/ffe/'c^iu^r. - 1840. UN r>7 A(i KCrhof /irA,!.f EJir'f>tiT^fm i 65 M ^ A»«' ftu.V n>io/A/<>/i I ■ .(7 \\, ^ «5 a2 62 6 AO ftO fi^ 65 Nicftof /tf^oif.Ei-ii.nf>uJ-ffh AO lk\ S± 63 fto easily reach the sou wlien we shuulil find such a cuursc necessary. We hud the satisfaction to ohserve that there were only a few streams, which wo might easily penetrate, between lis and the outside. But a very slight examination sufficed to shew that the ice was, if poHsible, still more closely packed along the coast of Davis' Strait ; and hence it was evi- dently hopeless to make ony attempt to proceed again to the northward in that way. Nothing there- fore remained for us but to wait patiently until the time when — according to the information given by the Esquimaux that the whales would come when the sun was low — we expected to find them con- gregating in the Sound. Having satisfied ourselves regarding the state of the ice, we again entered the Sound, and steered close along the western shore until we arrived at the point where we landed Eenoolooapik. The name of Penny's Land was given to the coast at this point, in compliment to Captain Penny, senior, a gentleman who had for very many years commanded a whale- fishing ship. We had thus completed the examination of the shores, and on reviewing the chart which we had constructed (and of which we here insert a copy), it was found to bear a close resemblance to the deline- ation given by Kejioolooapik. Almost the only error worthy of notice was the situation of the entrance ; and this, as before mentioned, can scarcely be called ?f>uj-us, so much so that we now scarcely ever sent out the boats. It was therefore determined on, as a last alternative, that we should proceed to the top of the Sound, in the hope that we would find it less tempestuous there. This plan we were prevented from carrying into execution at the time that it was resolved upon, in consequence of the wind being from the north ; as it was feared that if we left the harbour with a foul wind, in such an unsettled state of the weather, we might be blown off the land altogether. We were therefore constrained to wait until it should change. On the 18th, the wind coming from the south, we got under weigh with the intention of proceeding up the Sound, but in consequence of the strong tide and other circumstances preventing the ship wearing speedily, we were obliged again to let go the anchor to keep her off the rocks. Th« anchor caught the ground in time to prevent her striking forcibly at first, but she swung round and went ashore. When the tide left us there were not over four feet water aft, but with the assistance of a couple of warps from the ships still »t anchor, we got off the follow- ing tide without any damage. On the mornuig of the 19th the wind had changed, and we could not move until the 21 st, when we once 125 more got under weigh. During the night of that date it again came to blow heavily from the north. Fearing that the ice, driven down by these northerly winds, would hem us in, and concluding that the weather was entirely broken up in consequence of the advanced period of the season, on the 22d we bade farewell to the Sound, and bore up for home, where we arrived in safety on the 11th of October. CHAPTER VI. Having now concluded our description of the Sound, it only remains for us to inquire whether anything has been elicited which can be rendered available for the purposes of the whale-fishery ; or whether any other means than those hitherto followed can be devised for its prosecution, which would render its success more certain. In discussing these subjects, it will be necessary again to advert to the causes which have brought about the failures already mentioned. These we have stated to be the increased difficulty in reaching the fishing stations, in consequence of the accumu- lation of ice, and the animals having deserted some of their usual haunts, — these places being, as it is termed, *• fished out." Whether Hogarth's Sound might be easily reached at a sufficiently early period of the year, to insure success, cannot be said to be satisfactorily deter- mined. It will be recollected that it was the latter . ? 127 end of July bct'ore we arrived at its entrance, and that we then found it blocked up with ice. This circumstance might perhaps be thought to lead to the conclusion that it had not been accessible pre- vious to that time; but so rapid are the changes which take place among the ice, that it is highly probable that it might have been entered long before the time we attempted it. The whale-fishing vessels have frequently penetrated to the west-land about the latitude of 66° north, during the months of May and June ; and there is every reason to believe that they would have found it much more easy to gain the entrance of Hogarth's Sound, than to reach the land at a more northerly point. But as the attempt has not yet been made, we will not insist upon its practica- bility. We may, however, remark, that the obstacles appear to be much less formidable than those which obstruct the route to the usual fishing ground. The second cause of failure noticed, namely, the places being " fished out," cannot at all apply to this new station ; for, beyond the few v/hich the Esqui- maux kill, the fish are entirely undisturbed ; and it is presumed they would at first fall an easy prey to the fishermen. Indeed, we become convinced of this when we consider the puny nature of the weapons with which the Esquimaux kill them. The fact of their abounding in great numbers in Hogarth's Sound, would appear to be completely established ; 128 Hi , I ! I I [ ( fi ! : ! but as it is problematical whether the fishery could be carried on with success in this place, in the usual manner, we will now proceed to inquire whether any means exist by which the difficulties which have hitherto retarded the operations may be avoided. For this purpose, let us in the first place review what we have discovered concerning the seasons of the year during which the animals are to be found there. Early in September we saw them pouring into the Sound, and we were informed by the Esqui- maux that they would not leave it until it became completely frozen up ; which, according to the same account, would not be till the month of January. They also stated, that when they undertook long journeys over the ice in spring, when hunting for young seals, they saw whales in great numbers at the edge of the land-floe. From this it would ap- pear that they go no farther away than the frozen surface of the ocean obliges them ; and so soon as the ice begins to break up in the Sound, they return to it, and remain there until the heat of summer has entirely wasted away the land-floe. The period at which the ice would allow them to enter would be about the beginning of May ; and the complete dis- ruption of the land-floe would take place in July — varying, of course, according to the season. In the intervals, then, between September and January — and between the beginning of May and the end of 129 Jvly, we should iind the whales numerous in the Sound. During the former of these periods, the fear of being wintered would prevent the ships, as at pre- sent provided, from remaining — even if the weather was such that they could fish. Again, during the latter period, it is yet doubtful whether they could enter the Sound in time. It appears, therefore, that the method of conducting the fishery with uniform success would be to provide the ships for wintering, and to send them out at such a time that they might enter the Sound and find a harbour before the winter set ill. > f 7 might then prosecute the fishery, as soon an ^.^^^ ice permitted them, in spring-^return home 'vith their cargoes— and be got out again in time for the following winter. By this plan greater expense would, no doubt, be incurred-— the men being kept almost the whole year employed; but there is little doubt that this would be far more than Qounterbalanced by the increased returns. Another plan has been proposed, and it is one which appears to be in many respects preferable to that which we have just described. It is at once to establish a settlement at some part which the whales are known to frequent, and to prosecute the fishery whenever the season would permit. Vessels might then be sent out with stores, and to bring home the produce in the proper season. It appears B i % ■ 1i Vi 130 to me that Hogarth's Sound is remarkably well adapted for this purpose, as from the southern situ- ation of i^*^ entrance there is no fear of its being so much bkwXed up with ice, but that communication could be had with the settlers at some period of the season. The vessels would also incur much less risk irom the ice in proceeding to a settlement at this, than at any point farther north. It is unnecessary to enter into a full detail of the economy of such an establishment. That will readily suggest itself to those conversant with such matters. But we may remark that a number of men, not much greater than the crew of a whaler, would at first suffice. They would require to be provided with comfortable houses — a large stock of provisions—- plenty of fishing gear — and one or two small vessels in which they might go to some distance from the settlement for the purpose of fishing, if such should be found necessary. The chief objects to be attended to when not carrying on the fishing would be the comfort and employment of the men. Without ample provision for, and strict Attention to these, the rigours of the climate could not be borne ; while, under proper management, its severity would be compara- tively harmless. This is sufficiently demonstrated by the health of the crews of the ships employed on discovery. The Danes also on the east side, and much farther north than the proposed settlement 131 would be, enjoy excellent health. Major Fasting, at Leively, of whom I have before snokan, informed me that, so far from being unable to follow his usual avocations during winter, he chose that season for raaking his journeys among the settlements under his superintendance. The greater facility of making these journeys on the ice, no doubt influenced him ^x his choice ; but he po&itively assured me that the intensity of the cold was not such as to prevent him from undertaking them. During the winter, when fishing could not be carried on, suflicient employment might be found in hunting seals — this being the time when the Esqui- maux kill the greatest number of them. In the latter part of summer and beginning of autumn, deer- hunting and salmon-fishing would form most agree- able recreations, and afford an excellent and salutary change of fcjd. The produce of such a settlement need not consist of oil and whalebone alone. The rich furs with which the animals of that country are covered, would prove valuable commodities. Ermines are founa around the shores oi the Sound in great numbers. Of this I was not only informed by Eenoolooapik, but I have frequently seen them, and even sometimes caught them. On the shore, after a slight fall of snow, innumerable traces of them are to be observed in every direction. m 132 r : The Esquimaux, who are a harmless and docile race, and already practically acqudnted with the art of whaling', would prove powerful auxiliaries ; while the benef. ^hich would result to themselres from the estt\bii!ihment of settlements among them, are altogether incalculable. On the eastern shore of Davis' Strait, settlements have existed for a consi- derable time, and missionary efforts have effected a great change in the moral improvement and general comfort of th^ natives ; while, on the western coast, nothing has as yet been done to reclaim the poor be- nighted savages from their rude and debasing super- stitions. And, indeed, the rigour of the climate is such, and the difficulties and dangers to be encoun- tered so many, that it can scarcely be expected that Christian philanthropy will soon direct attention to that region as a field for [missionary enterprise, un- less in connection with some such establishment as has just been proposed. Thus, there are motives of a far higher character than the mere accumulation of wealth by commercial speculation, to urge philan- thropic and enterprising men to make trial of such a scheme. And surely it must be cheering to every enlightened mind to think, that the moral darkness which overspreads those regions with more deep and dreary gloom than even their own long polar night discloses, is destined to be dispelled by the genial rays of the Sun of Righteousness. Ay, and it is an 133 honour well worth aspiring after, to share in aiding the progress of truth over the earth. And who can tell but Eenoolooapik may contribute towards pre- paring his countrymen for the reception of the gospel^ for he has now had a proof of their sad degradation, and can tell them of the land whore the Bible is believed ; so that, trifling as his visit to Britain may appear, it may be the germ whence civilization may spring and overspread even that dreary wilderness of snow. •* .'-; APPENDIX. APPENDIX. The following Tables were drawn up from careful observation of the atmospheric pressure^ and temper- ature of the air and sea. The direction and strength of the wind, and state of the weather, were at the same time carefully noted, and are inserted in order that they may be compared with the indications of the Barometer. For the sake of convenience, figures have been used to express the strength of the wind ; and the following is an explanation of these : — 0, calm ; 1, very light air; 2, light air; 3, light breeze; 4, moderate breeze; 5, smart breeze; 6, fresh breeze; 7j moderate gale ; 8, fresh gale ; 9, very strong gale ; 10, hurricane. I have considered it unnecessary to give the Lati- tude and Longitude for each day, as the changes of 138 situation were often very trifling. I have here, however, subjoined a general account of the spaces traversed during each month. JVffl^.— The range over which the observations for this month were made, extended from latitude 58" N. longitude 30° W. to latitude 72° N. longTtude 58° W. The ship's course was to the north-west. June. — The observations for this period were made between latitude 72° N. longitude 58° W. and lati- tude 75° 10' N. longitude 60° W. The course of the ship was still to the north-west. July. — The change of situation during this month extended from latitude 75° 10' N. longitude 60° W. to latitude 65° N. longitude 63° W. The ship's course was to the south-west. August. — The observations for this month were made between latitude 64° 10' N. longitude 63° W. and latitude 66° 20' N. longitude 68° W. By re- ferring to the Chart of Hogarth's Sound, the situ- ation of the ship during any period of this month may be determined. September.^l^twQen the 4th and 22d of this month, the ship remained in Parker's Harbour, lati- tude 66° 9' N. longitude 66° 30' W. The few obser- vations noted after leaving this place were made while running across the entrance of Davis' Strait and round Gape Farewell. It will be observed that the temperature of the sea gradually rose as we left x^ the ice ; and it may be remarked that the occasional elevation of the temperature of the sea, registered in these Tables, is to be explained by the ship having been at a considerable distance from any large coU lection of ice. */ =* i I i' 140 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. May 1840. I Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday . . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday . . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday... . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday . . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday ATMOSl'HKRIC PRESSURE, f 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 8 A. M. 30.08 30.06 29.74 29.65 30. 15 30.42 30.45 30.34 30.10 29.94 29.86 29.70 29. 60 29.50 29.66 29.58 29.50 29.50 29.40 29.60 29.50 29.80 29.50 29.40 39.50 29.64 29.70 29.80 29. 78 29.70 29.70 6 P.M. 30.04 30. 02 29.70 29.95 30.40 30. 48 30.45 30. 30 30.00 30.00 29.80 29.60 29.46 29.64 29.70 29.65 29.60 29.45 29.60 29.40 29.65 29.80 29.40 29.45 29. 62 29.70 29.70 29.80 29.70 29.68 29.72 TEMPERATURE. Atmosphere, 8 A. M. 2 P. M . 6 P. M. 36 56 36 38 38 35 35 34 31 32 30 32 38 30 30 32 32 31 36 24 29 30 29 30 28 30 28 66 35 35 35 34 33 31 33 31 32 36 31 34 32 34 36 34 25 30 32 30 30 29 32 26 37 35 36 42 36 34 34 35 34 33 30 32 32 33 32 29 32 32 32 30 32 24 32 28 28 29 27 28 24 141 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. May 1840,— (Continued.) 6 P.M. 37 35 36 42 36 34 34 35 34 33 30 32 32 33 32 29 32 32 32 30 32 24 32 28 28 29 27 28 24 i .a WINDS. Remarks. Situation. 1 I Direetiou. 1 strength. 1 1 A. M. P.M. A.M. 3 p. Ji. 6 North NEbyE Clear. At Sea. 2 ENE ENE 6 6 Cloudy, 3 East East 10 10 Hazv. Rain. Cape Farewell. 4 East EbyS 10 10 Do'. Do. 5 E8E SE 8 6 Clear. Entrance Davis* Strait. G SW 2 Fine Weather. 7 NNE NNE 4 3 Cloudy. Streams of ice. 8 West NW 3 3 Hazy. 9 ■NNE NE 3 3 Do. 10 NE 4 Do. Middle of Strait. 11 NEbyN Wby N 4 4 Do. Snow. 12 wsw WbyN 4 6 Do. 13 South SSW 6 6 Foggy. Snow. South-west Pack. 14 SW SW 5 5 Cloudy. 16 SSK SSW 6 6 Foggy. Snow. ' 16 SSE Varinble 4 2 L'lear. Wiede Fiord. 17 SSW NNW 2 4 Clear. Snow. Reef Coll. 18 NE NNE 4 8 Cloudy. Loose ice. 19 East West 4 3 Clear. Disco. 20 North 4 Do. Leively. 21 NE NE 4 4 Dull weather. Ice. 22 South SSE 5 4 Cloudy. Streams of ice. 23 West WSW 2 4 Hazy. Snow. South- East, Bay. 24 North NNE 7 6 Snowy. VVaygatz Strait. 25 , Clear. Four Island Point. 26 ENE 6 Beautiful weather Black Hook. 27 NE NE 6 6 Clear ; very cold. Open water. 28 NE NE 6 6 Clear. Cape Lawson. 29 NE NEbyN 7 7 Do. Open water. 30 NE NE 5 3 Cloudy. Dark Head. 31 Northerly NE 1 2 Hoar frost. Streams of ice. 142 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. * t June 1840. ■ M i t 1 f ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE. TEMPERATURE. 1 8 A. M. 6 P. M. 29.78 29.50 29.28 29.50 29.80 29.98 30.20 30.00 29.95 29.84 29.94 29.84 29.83 29.78 29.70 29.70 29.60 29.70 29.60 29.48 29.57 29.18 29.29 29.60 29.53 29.45 29.62 29.52 29. 10 29.30 8 A. M. Atmosphcn 2 P. M. 6 P. M. Sea. Monday Tuesday Wednesday . . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday. . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday. . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday... Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 29.80 29.70 29.34 29.30 29.70 29.98 29. 98 30.18 30.08 29. 95 29.80 29.94 29.80 29.80 29.74 29.64 29.65 29.72 29.60 29.50 29.52 29.48 29. ' '5 29.40 29.52 29. 35 29.65 29.59 29.45 28.70 36 28 23 26 28 32 46 48 44 42 42 44 52 34 30 34 48 54 33 40 34 42 34 40 49 42 43 48 32 33 34 27 24 28 28 44 60 50 44 48 46 54 82 36 32 36 48 58 34 50 44 46 37 44 60 33 56 37 29 40 32 26 24 27 27 36 44 42 36 40 38 40 40 32 30 32 33 45 33 32 34 36 33 32 32 31 37 31 30 36 80 30 28 29 30 30 30 32 32 32 32 30 30 30 80 30 30 SI 32 30 30 29 2.9 30 30 30 29 30 29 29i 143 URE. 1 Bea. P. M. 32 80 26 30 34 28 27 29 27 30 36 30 14 30 12 32 )6 32 10 32 )8 32 10 30 30 2 80 30 2 30 3 30 5 31 3 32 2 30 4 30 6 29 3 29 2 30 2 30 I 30 7 29 I 30 ) 29 ? 291 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. June 1840. — {Continued.) i WINDS. Roll! arks. HltU.ition. 1 3 Direction. 1 Stri'iigth. 1 A. M. p. M. A.M. P..M. Nortberlv o Cloudy. Frow Islands. 2 ENB NE 4 6 Hazy. Streams of ice. 3 NE EbvN 4 4 Strong hoar frost. Frew Islands. 4 NE WSW 2 4 Hazy. Do. 5 WNVV SW 4 2 Fog. Snow. Do. \ 6 SE ESE 3 2 Very clear. Loose ice. r 7 WSW 4 Fine weather. Rerry Island. \ 8 ESE ESE 2 4 Clear. Ice. '■/ 9 svr SW 4 « Thick snow. Close beset. 10 sw SW 7 6 Hazv. Rain. Near Baffin Isles. 11 sw SSE 5 4 Clear. Close beset. 12 sw I Clear. Do. 13 VVesterly 2 [Vervfine weather. Do. - 14 ENE NE 4 7 IThick fog. Sugarloaf Point. 15 ENE NE by E 5 l|Po>?gy. Baffin Isles. IG NE ESE 3 3; Hazy. Snow. Melville Kay. 17 SW NW 2 2; Do. Do. Large floes. { 18 OjFine weather. Do. 19 Soutli SW 3 6 Fog. Snow. Devil's Thumb. 20 South SW 2 4 Hazy. Rain. Land Hoe. 21 WSW 2j Do. Do. Do. \ 22 Variable WSW 1 «; Do. Do. Do. 23 SW by W WSW y C|Hazy. Snow. Hecla wrecked. 24 WSW WSW 4 2 iPog. Snow. Land floe. 25 ENE 3 j Fine weather. Do. 26 ENE SW 2 T) |Suo\v. Clear. Do. . '> 27 SW 3 Hazy, Do. * 28 NE NNE :t 5 Hazy. Snow. Do. 29 NE NE by E 6 8 Cloudy. Snow. Do. 30 SW ssw 9 4 1 Hazy. Cape Walker. ]44 ','& Wednesday. , Thursday. . . Friday Saturday . . . Sunday .... Monday... . Tuesday. . . . Wednesday . Thursday.. . Friday Saturday. . . Sunday . . . , Monday., . . Tuesday .... Wednesday. Thursday.. . Friday Saturday... . Sunday .... Monday Tuesday. . . . . Wednesday . Thursday... Friday Saturday.. . . Sunday .... Monday Tuesday Wednesday. . Thursday . . . Friday METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. July 1840. ATMOSPHERIC PUK.SrtURE. n 1 2 3 'i 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 20 27 28 2!) 30 31 8 A.M. 29.58 29.90 29.70 29.82 29. 94 30.12 30. 00 29. 96 30. 02 29. 98 30. 00 29. 65 29. 60 29.66 29.69 29.60 29. 70 29.73 29. 70 29. 68 29. 40 29 33 29.60 29. 38 29. 36 29. 36 29. 40 29.46 29. 30 29.26 29. 36 6 P. M. 29.68 29.91 29.75 29.86 30.10 30.15 30. 02 29.98 29. 99 29. 99 29. 95 39. 54 29.65 29 69 29.68 29.60 29. 80 29.70 29. 68 29.68 29. 33 29#65 29.51 29. 38 29. 34 2:). 30 29. 42 29.44 29. 32 29. 33 29.30 TEMPERATURE. Atmosphere. 8 A. M. 2 P. M. C P. M. 48 42 34 40 44 37 37 31 36 37 35 44 48 52 39 40 32 39 35 37 39 45 36 37 33 32 38 39 32 35 35 64 62 40 60 49 60 45 70 45 60 78 80 62 68 42 54 44 42 50 45 38 62 38 43 53 50 42 40 36 40 38 29 27i 29 32 31 35 30 27 34 30 38* 48^ 39 39 40 36 40 31 34 37 36 37 36 33 31 33 31 32 34 34 32 Sea. 29 29 29 29 J m 294 32 32 31 32 32i 34 35 36 36 36 35 34 36^ 36 36 32i .32 ~ 32 33 34 35 36 33 33 ]45 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. July 1840. — (ContiAued.) URK. Sea. r. M. 29 29 274 29 29 29 32 2^ 31 294 35 294 30 32 27 32 34 314 30 31 38§ 32 48 324 39 34 39 35 40 36 36 36 40 36 31 35 34 34 37 354 36 36 37 36 36 .32i 33 32 31 32 33 33 31 34 32 35 34 36 34 33 32 33 %• ■iv AT. mim^^mMtM wrNiw. p X3 Rtnmrka. ^ituatiuii. § Diroi'tion. Strength. S A. M. 1'. M. A..M. P.M 1 Beautiful weather Ccpe Walker. 2 North NE 2 2 Fog. Close beset. .3 NNE NE 2 3 Hoar frost. Do. 4 Westerly Westerly 2 2 Foggy. Do. 5 Variable 2 Do. Do. 6 V^''esterly 3 Clear. Do. 7 NNE NEbyN 2 3 Thick fog. Do. 8 wsw NNE 1 1 Clear generally. Do. I 9 North NNE 1 2 Clear. Do. ' 10 NKbyN East 3 2 Fine weather. Do. 11 ENE 4 Do. Ice open southward. 12 KNE SW by W 4 5 Do. Devil's Tliunib. 13 South West 4 Dc. Wilcox Point. 14 NNE NNE 4 r, Do. Sugarloaf Point. 15 East ESE 4 b Do Sauuderson's Hope. Id ENK SSE 5 3 Do. Disco. 17 WNW wsw 5 2 Fog. Rain. Middle of Strait. 18 NNE North 3 Thick fog. Edge of Pack. 1» SW South 4 5 Fog. Rain. Do 20 Calm SE 3 Hazy. Rain. Do. 21 South SSE 4 7 Thick fog. Rain. Do. 22 Fog. Do. 23 ssw SE 2 3 Do. Do. 24 ENE ENE 3 6 Do. Rain. Do. 25 NVV SSE 3 7 Thick fog. Cape Walsinghain. 26 ENE WNW 2 4 Do. Loose ice. 27 SW ENE 4 7 Thick fog ^i;enrly. Saunderson's Tower. 28 ENE SE 4 4 Fog. Snow. ; Cruizing off Sound. 29 ENE ENE 4 5 Sleet. Snow. Do. 30 ENE ENE 4 3 Hazy. Do. 31 SSE SE 2 8 Hazy. Do. u 140 t- f: '. METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. August 1840 ATMo.sPMKRic rnKssruK, a ii Saturday . . . Sunday,. . . Monday . . .. Tuesday Wednesday Thursday. . Friday .... Saturday . . .Simday .... R'onday.. . . Tiuhday.. . We'lnesday ThursniSiv . . Friday . Saturday Sunday., . . Monday . . . Tuesday. . . . Wednesday Thursday . . Friday Saturday . . Sunday .... Monday. . . Tuesday.. . . Wednesday Thursday. . Friday .... Saturday . . Sunday.. . . Monday. . . o a 1 4 T. ,r 6 7 8 10 II 12 1.3 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 2.5 26 27 28 29 30 31 ■ \ yi. 20. .'0 2!). i:i/ 29. ;<.8 29. 80 29. 79 29.80 29. .''.,5 29. 50 29.70 29.80 29.80 29. 80 •29. m 29.85 29. 90 29.92 29. 84 29. 4G 29. 46 28.98 29.06 29.06 29.29 29.32 29. 56 29.76 29.46 29.50 29. 76 30.00 () p. M. 29.1.1 29.60 29. 7 o 29. v2 29,79 29.85 29. 80 29.48 29.60 29.80 29.82 29. 80 29.85 29. 85 29.88 29.90 29. 96 29.64 29. 46 29.20 29. 04 29, 08 29.16 29.39 29.39 29.70 29.78 29,40 29.60 30.00 29.95 TEMPF.- AXl'lU,. Atmosphere. -Va. 8 A . W. 3 P. M. fiP. w. 33 36 35 344 36 37 36 35 1 35 43 32 34 42 78 50- 334 36 46 32 51 50 44 36 29 40 56 33 ■JOi 46 64 33 2H 37 54 38 2!.i 40 62 38 29 37 52 44 33 36 64 37 35 49 56 44 36 39 56 39 39 48 78 43 40 45 43 40 40 46 60 40 42 40 40 39 40 39 40 36 38 39 40 33 36 37 38 37 35 35 47 40 344 38 42 37 35 43 50 39 35 40 47 37 .354 41 49 43 36 40 41 39 364 39 40 36 34 40 42 35 32 46 48 36 30 40 39 34 33^ Va. 15 Mh \6 35 \2 34 50 33i J2 il }6 29 <3 ^04 J3 2H J8 2U (8 29 [4 33 J7 35 U 36 51) 39 [S 40 iO 40 [0 42 $9 40 !6 38 t3 36 J7 35 34 i i7 35 !9 35 \7 35i 3 36 9 364 ;6 34 5 32 6 30 4 334 117 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. August 1840 — {^Continued.) >1 rt a ■s WINDS. K'nmiks, situation. § Hirci. tiuii. Strt iiRth. S A. M. r. M. A.M P.M. 1 ssw E by S 6 5 Foggy, Rain. Saunderson's Tower. 2 NE West 5 3 Hazy. Rain. Ent. of Hogarth's Sound. 3 NW NE 4 3 Clear. Among loose ice. 4 .Variable Variable 1 1 Fine Weather. Do. 5 KNE SSE 5 4 Do. Do. () NNW North 2 1 Clear generally. Packed ice. 7 Westerly ^Vesterly 2 2 Fine Weather. Do. 8 WSW 4 Do. Do. 9 North South 4 3 Cloudy. Do. 10 NNW SSW 2 4 Beautiful weather Queen's Cape. 11 SW SW 5 4 Do. Open water. 12 Variable sw o 4 Do. Streams of ice. 13 ENIi: ENE I 2 Do. Bon Accord Harbour. 11 SW SW 2 2 Do. Do. 15 SSW SSW 2 4 Do. Hogarth's Sound. 16 SSW SSW 4 4 Fog. Straggling ice. 17 V'ariablc Variable 2 -J rhick Fog. Open water. 18 SSW SW 5 8 Cloudy. Do. 19 SSW SE 8 6 Do. Do. 20 SSW SSW 5 Ifazy. Keimooksook. 21 SSW WNW 7 G Foggy. Rain. Open water. 22 SSW AVNW 4 5 Do. •Streams of ice. 2;i WNW AVNW 5 5 Hazy. Rain. Do. 24 WNW Variable 4 2 Clear. Do. 25 SW Variable 6 2 Cloudy. Entrance of S,)und. 26 NNE North 3 4 Fine weather. Streams of ice. 27 ^NE Variable 3 1 Cloudy. Do. 28 Variable NNE 1 7 Do. Do. 2!» NN W NNW 8 8 Clear. Squally. Edge of pack. 30 NNE NNW 8 8 Clear. Do. 31 NNK NNE 4 6 Do. Couldrey's Isle. ]48 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. f September 1840. : I I t K ■ 1 ■ 1 ATMOSPHKKIU rRKH^URK. TEMPERATl'HK. 1 8 A. M. 6 r. M. 8 A. M. iVtmosphcK a r. M. p. M. Hco. Tuesday. Wednesday . . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday. . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday. . . . Thursday ..... Friday Saturday Sunday Monday. Tuesday Wednesday. . . Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday. Monday Tuesday. Wednesday . . . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 29.75 29.45 29.40 29.40 29.30 29.63 29.75 29. 62 29.75 29.70 29. 44 29.45 29. 25 29.65 29.64 29. 64 29.35 28. 86 29. 20 29.18 29.27 29.55 29.29 29.60 29.40 29. 50 29. 60 29.62 29.65 29. 70 29. 62 29.40 29. 52 29. 29 29. 63 29.75 29.70 29.70 29.75 29.65 29. 32 29. 30 29.25 29.90 29.60 29.68 29.25 28. 80 29. 18 29.21 29.10 29.56 29. 40 29.60 29. 4h 29.55 29. 60 29.64 29.65 30.00 40 37 42 38 38 39 40 37 34 35 33 34 30 34 30 36 30 28 31 31 28 30 31 32 33 37 40 50 46 48 70 40 44 36 40 44 48 46 40 40 35 36 31 34 33 38 40 38 47 34 29 ^3 34 36 40 48 60 47 52 59 35 34 36 32 33i 36 35 37 33 32 32 31 30 30 35 34 28 30 32 29 29 32 •Xi .1 36 38 46 44 48 44 364 35 36 36 34 33 34 34 324 34 33 32 32 31 32 34 31 29 30 29 29A 29 30 36 36 46 50 49 49 50 . 1 ijca. M. 5 364 4 35 f) 86 2 36 3^ 34 n 33 1 34 7 34 3 32i 2 34 2 33 I 32 ) 32 ) 31 ) 32 I 34 ] 31 ) 29 2 30 » 29 ) 29* 2 29 i 30 1 36 J 36 I 46 ) 60 t 49 J 49 ' N 149 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. September 1840. — (Continued.) ■a WINP.S. Rcniorka. Situation. a Direction. Strength. 1 A. M. p. M. A.M. 3 r.M. 4 West SSW Fine Weather. Entrance of Sound. 2 NNE NNE 7 7 Cloudy. Keimooksook. 3 North North 8 4 Clear. Mid Channel. 4 . SE SE 8 8 Fog. Snow. Parker's Harbour. 5 SE South .5 6 Snow. Do. 6 sw Variable 3 2 Hazy. 7 NNE NNE 4 6 Clear. 8 Variable Westerly 2 3 Do. 9 NE NE 4 4 Do. 10 SE SE 5 6 Cloudy. 11 South ENE 8 4 Fog. Snow. 12 NE NE 8 8 Clear. 13 SE NE 9 10 Fog. Snow. 14 ENE ENE 7 8 Squally. 16 ENE NE 8 3 Cloudy. 16 NE SE 7 2 Clear. 17 SSE SSE 4 6 Do. 18 Variable NbyE 3 10 Hazy. 19 North West 6 2 Clear. 20 NW N liy E. 3 8 Snow. 21 NNE N l-iy.Ui: a: 8; Uo.- « • . ,.*.•. Cape Enderby. 22 NE Nortel . (^ : 7: cioju^'. : . : : . .' ^«i : : . 23 North North" ' & ' •-/• Sn6w. • .' r., • Ajt-Seu.; ^ 24 North NNW. •G .6. Clou(^. . _ ^ 25 NW >y^\\ n- .4; Eog^'-.R^ii'. ; I 26 NW •NE • :.r :3: Cloutly? •. .' ; ^ ^ J • • • 27 SSW WNW 5 5 Hazy. ' c • • 28 NW NNW 7 7 Cloudy. 2!> North NW 6 7 Do. 30 WNW NW 7 7 Hazy.